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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/11933-0.txt b/11933-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2e4a46f --- /dev/null +++ b/11933-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6009 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11933 *** + +[Illustration: A New Zealand War Speech. (From a sketch by A. Earle.)] + + + + +A NARRATIVE + +OF A + +NINE MONTHS' RESIDENCE + +IN + +NEW ZEALAND + +IN 1827 + +BY + +AUGUSTUS EARLE + +DRAUGHTSMAN TO HIS MAJESTY'S SURVEYING SHIP + +"THE BEAGLE." + +Whitecombe & Tombs Limited + +Christchurch, Wellington, and Dunedin, N.Z.; + +Melbourne and London + +1909 + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +The author of this account of New Zealand in the year 1827 was an artist +by profession. "A love of roving and adventure," he states, tempted him, +at an early age, to sea. In 1815 he procured a passage on board a +storeship bound for Sicily and Malta, where he had a brother stationed +who was a captain in the navy. He visited many parts of the +Mediterranean, accompanying Lord Exmouth's fleet in his brother's gunboat +on his Lordship's first expedition against the Barbary States. He +afterwards visited the ruins of Carthage and the remains of the ancient +city of Ptolomea, or Lepida, situated in ancient Libya. Returning to +Malta, he passed through Sicily, and ascended Mount Etna. In 1818 he left +England for the United States, and spent nearly two years in rambling +through that country. Thence he proceeded to Brazil and Chile, returning +to Rio de Janeiro, where he practised his art until the commencement of +1824. Having received letters of introduction to Lord Amherst, who had +left England to undertake the government of India, Mr. Earle left Rio for +the Cape of Good Hope, intending to take his passage thence to Calcutta. +On the voyage to the Cape the vessel by which he was a passenger touched +at Tristan d'Acunha, and was driven off that island in a gale while Mr. +Earle was ashore, leaving him stranded in that desolate land, where he +remained for six months, when he was rescued by a passing ship, the +"Admiral Cockburn," bound for Van Diemen's Land, whence he visited New +South Wales and New Zealand, returning again to Sydney. In pursuance of +his original resolution to visit India, he left Sydney in "The Rainbow," +touching at the Caroline Islands, Manilla, and Singapore. After spending +some time in Madras, where he executed many original drawings, which were +afterwards copied and exhibited in a panorama, he set out for England by +a French vessel, which was compelled by stress of weather to put into +Mauritius, where she was condemned. Mr. Earle ultimately reached England +in a vessel named the "Resource," but, being still animated by the desire +for travel, he accepted the situation of draughtsman on His Majesty's +ship "Beagle," commanded by Captain Fitzroy, which in the year 1831 left +on a voyage of discovery that has been made famous by the observations of +Charles Darwin, who accompanied the expedition in the capacity of +naturalist. + +The notes which furnished the materials for this book were made by Mr. +Earle during his first visit to New Zealand, in 1827. They are valuable +as setting forth the impressions formed by an educated man, who came into +the primitive community then existing at Hokianga and the Bay of Islands, +without being personally connected either with the trading community, +the missionaries, or the whalers. It should not be inferred from the +reflections Mr. Earle casts upon the missionaries that he was himself an +irreligious man, because the journal of his residence on Tristan d'Acunha +shows that, while living there, he read the whole service of the Church +of England to that little community every Sunday, and his diary in many +places exhibits a reverence for Divine things. It may, however, be said +in extenuation of the lack of hospitality on the part of the missionaries +of which he complains, that many of the early residents and European +visitors to New Zealand were of an undesirable class, and that they +exercised a demoralising influence upon the Maoris. It was not easy for +the missionaries to consort, upon terms of intimacy, with their +fellow-countrymen whose relations with the Natives were such as they must +strongly condemn. Earle's narrative is interesting because it conveys a +realistic description of the Maoris before their national customs and +habits had undergone any material change through association with white +settlers. In dealing with Maori names, Mr. Earle, having at that period +no standard of orthography to guide him, followed the example of Captain +Cook in spelling words phonetically. Except in the case of certain +well-known places the original spelling has been retained in the present +edition of his book. + + + + +CONTENTS. + +CHAPTER I. + +VOYAGE FROM SYDNEY +WRECKS AT HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER II. + +MAORI WELCOME +NATIVE CHARACTERISTICS +EUROPEANS AT HOKIANGA +CANNIBALISM + + +CHAPTER III. + +A MAORI VILLAGE +THE TAPU ON CROPS +MAORI ART + + +CHAPTER IV. + +HOKIANGA RIVER +MR. HOBBS' MISSION +THE TIMBER INDUSTRY + + +CHAPTER V. + +AN OVERLAND JOURNEY + + +CHAPTER VI. + +THE CHIEF PATUONE + + +CHAPTER VII. + +A PICTURESQUE SCENE + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +IN THE DENSE FOREST + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE KERIKERI MISSION +INHOSPITABLE RECEPTION + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE BAY OF ISLANDS + + +CHAPTER XI. + +MASSACRE OF THE BOYD + + +CHAPTER XII. + +KORORAREKA +A MIXED COMMUNITY +SHULITEA (KING GEORGE) + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +MAORI CONSERVATISM + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +A MISSION SETTLEMENT +THE MECHANIC MISSIONARY + + +CHAPTER XV. + +VISIT FROM HONGI +HONGI'S COAT OF MAIL + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +INTERVIEW WITH HONGI + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +A MAORI WELCOME + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +INLAND EXCURSIONS + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +MAORI WOMEN'S CAMP + + +CHAPTER XX. + +LOADING SPARS, HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +DEATH OF A CHIEF +TRADING WITH MAORIS + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +BRUTAL MURDER OF A WIFE + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +ANOTHER JOURNEY +INTERIOR OF THE COUNTRY + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +A WAR PARTY + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +HOSTILE DISPLAY +THE LAW OF MURU + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +A SEDUCTION AND ITS CONSEQUENCES + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +LAW OF RETALIATION + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +A WAR EXPEDITION +CANNIBALISM + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +MAORI SLAVERY + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +PIRACY BY CONVICTS + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +N.Z. CLIMATE +THE STARVATION CURE + + +CHAPTER XXXII. + +THE ART OF TATTOOING + + +CHAPTER XXXIII. + +TRIBAL GOVERNMENT +MAORI BELIEFS +THE CUSTOM OF TAPU +SUNDAY OBSERVANCE +MASSACRE OF FRENCH NAVIGATOR MARION AND PARTY + + +CHAPTER XXXIV. + +THE MAORIS' VIEW OF CHRISTIANITY + + +CHAPTER XXXV. + +HONGI'S THREATS +PREPARING FOR WAR + + +CHAPTER XXXVI. + +ARRIVAL OF A WARSHIP + + +CHAPTER XXXVII. + +WHALERS AND MISSIONARIES + + +CHAPTER XXXVIII. + +THREATENED WAR + + +CHAPTER XXXIX. + +CONSTRUCTION OF A PA + + +CHAPTER XL. + +A SHAM FIGHT + + +CHAPTER XLI. + +AN EXCITING INCIDENT +VISIT OF A GREAT TOHUNGA + + +CHAPTER XLII. + +VICTORIOUS WARRIORS +TREATMENT OF PRISONERS +BAKED HEADS + + +CHAPTER XLIII. + +VISITS OF WHALERS + + +CHAPTER XLIV. + +SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS + + +CHAPTER XLV. + +DEATH OF HONGI + + +CHAPTER XLVI. + +A TRIBAL CONFLICT +SHULITEA (KING GEORGE) KILLED + + +CHAPTER XLVII. + +EXCITEMENT AT KORORAREKA + + +CHAPTER XLVIII. + +EARLE'S FAREWELL +MISSIONARIES ALARMED + + +CHAPTER XLIX. + +JOURNEY TO HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER L. + +EUROPEAN DEFENCES +MR. HOBBS' MESSAGE OF PEACE + + +CHAPTER LI. + +MAORI SOCIAL CUSTOMS +EUROPEAN LIAISONS WITH MAORIS +MAORI MARRIAGES + + +CHAPTER LII. + +A MAORI TANGI + + +CHAPTER LIII. + +MAORI CHARACTERISTICS +ORIGIN OF OUTRAGES +FAMILY AFFECTION + + +CHAPTER LIV. + +TRADE OF HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER LV. + +A CREW MASSACRED + + +CHAPTER LVI. + +FAREWELL TO NEW ZEALAND +MAORIS IN SYDNEY + + +APPENDIX I. + +MASSACRE OF FURNEAUX'S BOAT'S CREW +CANNIBALISM + + +APPENDIX II. + +A TRIBAL FIGHT + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + +A Maori War Speech (Frontispiece) +Patuone, a Hokianga Chief +Mission Station, Kerikeri +Scene of Boyd Massacre +Maori War Expedition +Maori Method of Tattooing +Specimens of Tattooing +Whalers at Bay of Islands + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +VOYAGE FROM SYDNEY. + + +Having made up my mind to visit the island of New Zealand, and having +persuaded my friend Mr. Shand to accompany me, we made an arrangement for +the passage with Captain Kent, of the brig Governor Macquarie, and, +bidding adieu to our friends at Sydney, in a few hours (on October 20th, +1827) we were wafted into the great Pacific Ocean. + +There were several other passengers on board, who were proceeding to New +Zealand to form a Wesleyan missionary establishment at Hokianga. Amongst +these were a Mr. and Mrs. Hobbs, who were most enthusiastic in the cause. +They had formerly belonged to the same mission at Whangaroa, when a war +which took place amongst the natives totally destroyed their +establishment; and, after enduring great varieties of suffering, they +escaped, but lost everything they possessed, except the clothes they had +on. We had a very fine wind for nine days, and on the 29th we saw a +gannet, a sure sign we were within a hundred miles of land, for these +birds are never seen at a greater distance from it. True to our +anticipations, towards the afternoon the water became discoloured, and at +midnight we saw the land. + +This interesting island, of which we now got sight, was first discovered +by that eminent and enterprising Dutch navigator, Tasman, subsequently to +the discovery of Van Diemen's Land. His voyage from Batavia in 1642, +undertaken by order of the then Governor-General of Dutch India, Anthony +Van Diemen, was one of the most important and successful ever undertaken, +for it was during this voyage that New Holland was discovered, of which +Van Diemen's Land was then supposed to form a part, the extensive island +of New Zealand being supposed to form another portion.[1] + +The slight intercourse of the discoverers with the natives had so +calamitous a termination, and the exaggerated accounts it was then a kind +of fashion to give of savages, stigmatised the New Zealanders with such a +character for treachery and cruelty, that their island was not visited +again for upwards of a century, when the immortal Cook drew aside the +veil of error and obscurity from this unexplored land, and rescued the +character of its inhabitants from the ignominy which its original +discoverers, the Dutch, had thrown upon them. This immense tract of land +was imagined by Tasman to form but one island, and he most unaptly gave +it the name of New Zealand, from its great resemblance (as was stated) to +his own country.[2] + +In 1770 Cook discovered a strait of easy access and safe navigation, +cutting the island nearly in half, thus making two islands of what had +before been imagined but one. This strait bears his name, and is often +traversed by vessels from New South Wales returning home by way of Cape +Horn. + +In 1827 His Majesty's ship Warsprite passed through this strait in +company with the Volage, twenty-eight guns, being the first English line +of battleship which had ever made the attempt. A few years since, Captain +Stewart, commanding a colonial vessel out of Port Jackson, discovered +another strait, which cut off the extreme southern point, making it a +separate island that bears his name, and now almost every year our +sealers and whalers are making additional and useful discoveries along +its coasts. + +These islands lie between lat. 34° and 48°S. and long. 166° and 180°E. +The opening of the land to which we were now opposite, and which was our +destined port, the accurate eye of Cook had observed, but did not attempt +the entrance; and it is only about ten years since, when the two store +ships, the Dromedary and Coromandel, loaded with spars on the coast, that +a small vessel attending on those ships first crossed the bar; but +although they took soundings and laid down buoys, the commanders of the +large vessels were afraid of attempting the entrance, which proved their +good sense, for their great draught of water would have rendered the +undertaking more hazardous than the risk was worth. Yet during my +residence in this country two large vessels crossed the bar, and +recrossed it heavily laden, without the slightest accident--one the +Harmony, of London, 400 tons burden; the other the Elizabeth, of Sydney, +of nearly equal tonnage--but in proof that it is not always safe, a few +months after this, two schooners of extremely light draught were lost, +though they were both commanded by men who perfectly well knew the +channels through the bar. It was a singular circumstance that both +vessels had been built in New Zealand; one, the Herald, a small and +beautiful craft, built by and belonging to the Church missionaries, the +crew of which escaped, but the disastrous circumstances attending the +wreck of the other, called the Enterprise, I shall relate in their proper +place. + +The morning of the 30th was foggy and unfavourable, but it suddenly +cleared up, and exhibited the entrance of Hokianga right before us, and a +light breeze came to our aid to carry us in. The entrance to this river +is very remarkable, and can never be mistaken by mariners. On the north +side, for many miles, are hills of sand, white, bleak, and barren, ending +abruptly at the entrance of the river, which is about a quarter of a mile +across. Where the south head rises abrupt, craggy, and black, the land +all round is covered with verdure; thus, at the first glimpse of these +heads from the sea, one is white, the other black. + +The only difficulty attending the entrance (and, indeed, the only thing +which prevents Hokianga from being one of the finest harbours in the +world) is the bar. This lies two miles from the mouth of the river, its +head enveloped in breakers and foam, bidding defiance and threatening +destruction to all large ships which may attempt the passage. However, +we fortunately slipped over its sandy sides, undamaged, in three-fathom +water. + +After crossing the bar, no other obstacle lay in our way, and, floating +gradually into a beautiful river, we soon lost sight of the sea, and were +sailing up a spacious sheet of water, which became considerably wider +after entering it; while majestic hills rose on each side, covered with +verdure to their very summits. Looking up the river, we beheld various +headlands stretching into the water, and gradually contracting in width, +till they became fainter and fainter in the distance, and all was lost in +the azure of the horizon. The excitement occasioned by contemplating +these beautiful scenes was soon interrupted by the hurried approach of +canoes, and the extraordinary noises made by the natives who were in +them. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 1: The Dutch and Spanish had discovered N.E. Australia as early +as 1606, and the Dutch had on several occasions visited the N.W. and +South coasts of the Continent before the date of Tasman's voyage.] + +[Footnote 2: The name given by Tasman was Staten Landt. The name New +Zealand was bestowed in 1643 by the States-General of the United +Provinces.] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES. + + +As the arrival of a ship is always a profitable occurrence, great +exertions are made to be the first on board. There were several canoes +pulling towards us, and from them a number of muskets were fired, a +compliment we returned with our swivels; one of the canoes soon came +alongside, and an old chief came on board, who rubbed noses with Captain +Kent, whom he recognised as an old acquaintance; he then went round and +shook hands with all the strangers, after which he squatted himself down +upon the deck, seeming very much to enjoy the triumph of being the first +on board. But others very soon coming up with us, our decks were crowded +with them, some boarding us at the gangway, others climbing up the chains +and bows, and finding entrances where they could. All were in perfect +good humour, and pleasure beamed in all their countenances. + +I had heard a great deal respecting the splendid race of men I was going +to visit, and the few specimens I had occasionally met with at Sydney so +much pleased me, that I was extremely anxious to see a number of them +together, to judge whether (as a nation) they were finer in their +proportions than the English, or whether it was mere accident that +brought some of their tallest and finest proportioned men before me. + +I examined these savages, as they crowded round our decks, with the +critical eye of an artist; they were generally taller and larger men +than ourselves; those of middle height were broad-chested and muscular, +and their limbs as sinewy as though they had been occupied all their +lives in laborious employments. Their colour is lighter than that of the +American Indian, their features small and regular, their hair is in a +profusion of beautiful curls, whereas that of the Indian is straight and +lank. The disposition of the New Zealander appears to be full of fun and +gaiety, while the Indian is dull, shy, and suspicious. + +I have known Indians in America from the north to the south--the +miserable, idiotic Botecooda of Brazil, the fierce warrior of Canada, and +the gentle and civilised Peruvian, yet in their features and complexions +they are all much alike. I observed their statures altered with their +different latitudes; the Chilians and the Canadians being nearly the +same, in figure tall, thin, and active, their climate being nearly the +same, although at the two extremes of America; while those living between +the equinoxes are short, fat, and lazy. I am persuaded that these South +Sea Islanders, though so nearly of the same complexion, still are not of +the same race, laziness being the characteristic of the American Indian +from north to south, while the New Zealanders are laborious in the +extreme, as their astonishing and minute carvings prove. The moment the +Indian tasted intoxicating spirits his valour left him, he became an +idiot and a tool in the hands of the white man. Here they have the utmost +aversion to every kind of "wine or strong drink," and very often severely +take us to task for indulging in such an extraordinary and debasing +propensity, or, as they call it, "of making ourselves mad;" but both +nations are equally fond of tobacco. + +The first thing which struck me forcibly was, that each of these savages +was armed with a good musket, and most of them had also a cartouch box +buckled round their waists, filled with ball cartridges, and those who +had fired their pieces from the canoes carefully cleaned the pans, +covered the locks over with a piece of dry rag, and put them in a secure +place in their canoes. Every person who has read Captain Cook's account +of the natives of New Zealand would be astonished at the change which has +taken place since his time, when the firing of a single musket would have +terrified a whole village. + +As we sailed up the river very slowly, the throng of savages increased to +such a degree that we could scarcely move, and, to add to our confusion, +they gave us "a dance of welcome," standing on one spot, and stamping so +furiously that I really feared they would have stove in the decks, which +our lady passengers were obliged to leave, as when the dance began each +man proceeded to strip himself naked, a custom indispensable among +themselves. + +We came to an anchor off a native village called Pakanae, where two +chiefs of consequence came on board, who soon cleared our decks of a +considerable number. We paid great attention to these chiefs, admitting +them into the cabin, etc., and it had the effect of lessening the noise, +and bringing about some kind of order amongst those who still continued +on deck. The names of these chiefs were Moetara and Akaeigh, and they +were the heads of the village opposite to which we had anchored. They +were well known to our captain, who spoke their language. They were +accustomed to the society of Europeans, also to transact business with +them; and as they were flax, timber, and hog merchants, they and the +captain talked over the state of the markets during the evening. They +were clothed in mats, called Kaka-hoos. The ladies joined our party at +supper, and we spent a very cheerful time with our savage visitors, who +both behaved in as polite and respectful a manner as the best educated +gentlemen could have done; their pleasing manners so ingratiated them +into the good opinion of the ladies, that they all declared "they would +be really very handsome men if their faces were not tattooed." + +The next day we received a visit from Mr. and Mrs. Butler, English +people, who had taken up their residence here for the purpose of trading, +and we returned with them on shore, taking our female passengers with us, +and leaving them in charge of Mrs. Butler. I determined to stroll through +the village, which is, in fact, a collection of rude huts, huddled +together without system or regularity. Dock leaves and weeds of every +description were growing luxuriantly all round them, and in many places +actually overtopping the houses, few being more than four feet high, with +a doorway about two feet. Scarcely any of them were inhabited, as at this +season of the year the greater part of the population prefer living in +the open air to remaining in their small, smoky ovens of houses. + +I had not rambled far before I witnessed a scene which forcibly reminded +me of the savage country in which I then was, and the great alteration of +character and customs a few days' sail will make. The sight to me so +appalling was that of the remains of a human body which had been roasted, +and a number of hogs and dogs were snarling and feasting upon it! I was +more shocked than surprised, for I had been informed of the character of +the New Zealanders long before my arrival amongst them; still, the +coming suddenly and unexpectedly upon a sight like this completely +sickened me of rambling, at least for that day, and I hastened back to +Mr. Butler's, eager to inquire into the particulars of the horrid +catastrophe. + +That gentleman informed me that the night of the arrival of our ship, a +chief had set one of his kookies (or slaves) to watch a piece of ground +planted with the kumara, or sweet potato, in order to prevent the hogs +committing depredations upon it. The poor lad, delighted with the +appearance of our vessel, was more intent upon observing her come to an +anchor than upon guarding his master's property, and suffered the hogs to +ramble into the plantation, where they soon made dreadful havoc. In the +midst of this trespass and neglect of orders his master arrived. The +result was certain; he instantly killed the unfortunate boy with a blow +on the head from his stone hatchet, then ordered a fire to be made, and +the body to be dragged to it, where it was roasted and consumed. + +It was now time to return on board, and we walked down to the beach for +that purpose, but it was quite low water, and the boat was full two +hundred feet off. She lay at the end of a long, slimy, muddy flat, and +while we were debating how we should manage to get to her, the native +chiefs took up the females in their arms, as though they were children, +and, in spite of all their blushes and remonstrances, carried them to the +boat and placed them safely in it, each seeming to enjoy the task. They +then returned and gave us a passage, walking as easily with us upon their +backs as if we had been no heavier than so many muskets. We took care not +to shock the feelings of the females by letting them know the tragedy so +lately acted in the village, or horrify them by telling them that one of +their carriers was the murderer! It would have been difficult to have +made them believe that such a noble-looking and good-natured fellow had +so lately imbrued his hands in the blood of a fellow creature. + +We had now been lying here two days, and the curiosity of the people did +not diminish, nor were our visitors less numerous. Parties were hourly +coming up and down the river to pay their respects to our captain, and +the report of there being numerous passengers on board greatly increased +their desire to hold intercourse with us. They all appeared anxious to +make themselves useful, some chopping wood for our cook, others assisting +the steward, in order to get what might be left on the plates, others +brought small presents of fish; in fact, all availed themselves of any +excuse to get on board; yet, notwithstanding the crowd, and the confusion +attending their movements, there was scarcely any thieving amongst them. +They have seen the detestation that theft is held in by Europeans, and +the injury it does to trade, and have, in consequence, nearly left it +off. None but the meanest slaves will now practise it, and they do so at +the risk of their lives; for, if caught in the act, and the charge is +proved against them, their heads are cut off! + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +A RAMBLE ASHORE. + + +On November 3rd we visited Pakanae, a village lying round the base of a +large conical hill, about three hundred feet high, with a fortification +on the top, which gives it its name, pa signifying in their language a +fortified place. Behind it lies a swamp, which is covered at high water, +and which adds greatly to its security; for the unsettled and war-like +spirit of the natives renders it absolutely necessary that they always +should have a place of strength near at hand to retreat to, as they never +know how suddenly their enemies may make an attack upon them. To the +right of this swamp is a beautiful valley, in a very high state of +cultivation. At the time I stood viewing it from the summit of the hill, +I was charmed with the scene of industry and bustle it presented, all the +inhabitants of the village having gone forth to plant their potatoes, +kumaras, and Indian corn. In the rear, and forming a fine, bold +background, is an immense chain of high and rugged hills, covered to +their summits with thick forests, and forming, as it were, a natural +barrier and protection to this smiling and fruitful valley, while from +their wooded sides issue innumerable small streams of clear water, which, +meeting at the base, form beautiful rivulets, and after meandering +through the valley, and serving all the purposes of irrigation, they +empty themselves into the Hokianga river. + +Standing on the spot from which I have described the above prospect, I +felt fully convinced of the frugality and industry of these savages. The +regularity of their plantations, and the order with which they carry on +their various works, differ greatly from most of their brethren in the +South Seas, as here the chiefs and their families set the example of +labour; and when that is the case, none can refuse to toil. Round the +village of Pakanae, at one glance is to be seen above 200 acres of +cultivated land, and that not slightly turned up, but well worked and +cleared; and when the badness of their tools is considered, together with +their limited knowledge of agriculture, their persevering industry I look +upon as truly astonishing. + +The New Zealanders have established here a wise custom, which prevents a +great deal of waste and confusion, and generally preserves to the planter +a good crop, in return for the trouble of sowing; namely, as soon as the +ground is finished, and the seed sown, it is _tabooed,_ that, is rendered +sacred, by men appointed for that service, and it is death to trample +over or disturb any part of this consecrated ground. The wisdom and +utility of this regulation must be obvious to every one. But, however +useful this taboo system is to the natives, it is a great inconvenience +to a stranger who is rambling over the country, for if he does not use +the greatest caution, and procure a guide, he may get himself into a +serious dilemma before his rambles be over, which had nearly been the +case with our party this day. We were ascending a hill, for the purpose +of inspecting a New Zealand fortification on the summit, when a little +boy joined our party, either out of curiosity, or in hopes of getting a +fish-hook from us--a thing the natives are continually asking for; but as +we had a man with us who spoke the language fluently, we did not much +regard the boy's guidance, though to us it speedily became of great +importance. We were taking a short cut, to make a quick ascent to the top +of the hill, when the little fellow uttered a cry of horror. Our +interpreter asked him what he meant, when he pointed his finger forward, +and told him to look, for the ground was tabooed. We did as he desired +us, but beheld nothing particular, till he showed us, in one of the +trees, among the branches, a large bunch of something, but we could not +make out what it was. This, he told us, was the body of a chief, then +undergoing the process of decomposition, previous to interment, which +process is witnessed by men appointed for that purpose, who alone are +permitted to approach the spot. The ground all round is tabooed, so that, +had it not been for the interference of our young guide, we should +certainly have been placed in a most distressing situation; and it is a +question if our ignorance of their customs would have been considered a +sufficient excuse for our offence. + +The top of this hill was level and square, and was capable of containing +several hundred warriors. It was cut into slopes all round, and fortified +by stockades in every direction, which rendered it impregnable. The +natives assured me its strength had been often tried. The famous warrior +Hongi had attacked it several times, but had always been defeated with +great loss. After inspecting this fortification, which excited our +admiration, we proceeded through the village at the bottom of the hill. +Nearly the whole of the inhabitants were out working in the fields. We +entered several of their habitations, and found all their property +exposed and unguarded. Even their muskets and powder, which they prize +above everything, were open to our inspection, so little idea of robbery +have they amongst themselves. But as there are many hogs and dogs roaming +at large through their villages, they are very careful to fence their +dwellings round with wicker work, to preserve them from the depredations +of these animals; and as the houses are extremely low, they have very +much the appearance of bird cages or rabbit hutches. Their storehouses +are generally placed upon poles, a few feet from the ground, and tabooed +or consecrated. Great taste and ingenuity are displayed in carving and +ornamenting these depositories. I made drawings from several of them, +which were entirely covered with carving; and some good attempts at +groups of figures, as large as life, plainly showed the dawning of the +art of sculpture amongst them. Many of the attempts of the New Zealanders +in that art are quite as good, if not better, than various specimens I +have seen of the first efforts of the early Egyptians. + +Painting and sculpture are both arts greatly admired by these rude +people. Every house of consequence is ornamented and embellished, and +their canoes have the most minute and elaborate workmanship bestowed upon +them. + +Their food is always eaten out of little baskets, rudely woven of green +flax; and as they generally leave some for their next meal, they hang +these baskets on sticks or props, till they are ready to eat again. Thus +a village presents a very singular appearance, as it is stuck full of +sticks, with various kinds of baskets hanging from them. This plan, +however, is the most rational that could be adopted, as none of their +eatables can be left on the ground, or they would become the prey of the +hogs and dogs. + +In the course of our long ramble we noticed many pretty little huts, some +having neat gardens all round them, planted with fruits and corn. One +house which we saw was built by a chief who had made several voyages to +Port Jackson, and it was really a very comfortable dwelling. It had a +high door, which we could enter without stooping, and in a separate room +was constructed a bed, after the pattern of one on ship-board. He had +likewise a large sea-chest in his house, the key of which (highly +polished) was hung round his neck as an ornament. In the course of our +walk we came to a spot on which a group of old people were sitting +sunning themselves, and they immediately all rose to welcome us. I +remarked one amongst them who seemed, from his silvery locks and feeble +limbs, to be very old. I asked him, among other questions, whether he +remembered Captain Cook. He said he did not, but well recollected Captain +Furneaux, and was one of the party which cut off and massacred his boat's +crew; and from other information which I received I believe his assertion +to have been correct.[3] + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 3: Captain Furneaux's account of this massacre is printed in +the Appendix.] + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE HOKIANGA RIVER EIGHTY YEARS AGO. + + +As our missionary passengers had by this time fixed upon the spot where +they intended to establish their settlement, and it being several miles +up the river, we got under weigh to proceed thither. The captain's +agreement being to that effect, we proceeded with the first fair wind, +about twenty miles up the stream, which was as far as we could with +safety take the vessel. The shores on each side this noble river are +composed of hills gradually rising behind each other, most of them +covered with woods to the water's edge. Not a vestige of a habitation is +to be seen, and if it had not been for the occasional sight of a canoe, +we might have imagined the country to be totally uninhabited. Opposite a +small island, or, rather, sand-bank, the vessel grounded, and had to +remain there till the next tide floated her off. It was a curious and +interesting spot, being a native pa and depot, and was entirely covered +with storehouses for provisions and ammunition. The centre was so +contrived that all assailants might be cut off before they could effect a +landing; and we were all much gratified by the judgment and forethought +displayed in this little military work. The next morning we got off, but +could not proceed far, as the shoals were becoming so numerous as to +render the navigation dangerous. But here we beheld, with both surprise +and satisfaction, a most unexpected sight, namely, a snug little colony +of our own countrymen, comfortably settled and usefully employed in this +savage and unexplored country. Some enterprising merchants of Port +Jackson have established here a dockyard and a number of sawpits. Several +vessels have been laden with timber and spars; one vessel has been built, +launched, and sent to sea from this spot; and another of a hundred and +fifty tons burthen was then upon the stocks! + +On landing at this establishment at Te Horeke, or, as the Englishmen have +called it, "Deptford," I was greatly delighted with the appearance of +order, bustle, and industry it presented. Here were storehouses, +dwelling-houses, and various offices for the mechanics; and every +department seemed as well filled as it could have been in a civilised +country. To me the most interesting circumstance was to notice the great +delight of the natives, and the pleasure they seemed to take in observing +the progress of the various works. All were officious to "lend a hand," +and each seemed eager to be employed. This feeling corresponds with my +idea of the best method of civilising a savage. Nothing can more +completely show the importance of the useful arts than a dockyard. In it +are practised nearly all the mechanical trades; and these present to the +busy enquiring mind of a New Zealander a practical encyclopaedia of +knowledge. When he sees the combined exertions of the smith and carpenter +create so huge a fabric as a ship, his mind is filled with wonder and +delight; and when he witnesses the moulding of iron at the anvil, it +excites his astonishment and emulation. + +The people of the dockyard informed me that, although it was constantly +crowded with natives, scarcely anything had ever been stolen, and all the +chiefs in the neighbourhood took so great an interest in the work that +any annoyance offered to those employed would immediately be revenged as +a personal affront. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +JOURNEY OVERLAND TO BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +Here we left the brig to unload her cargo; my friend Shand and myself +having determined to proceed overland to the Bay of Islands. An +intelligent chief, hearing of our intention, offered to accompany us +himself, and lent us two of his kookies to carry our baggage. We accepted +the chieftain's offer, and several other natives joined the party to bear +us company. + +November 7.--We all embarked in a canoe, in order to reach the head of +the river before we began our pedestrian tour; and, after paddling about +eight or nine miles further up, where the river became exceedingly +narrow, we came to another English settlement. This consisted of a party +of men who had come out in the Rosanna, the vessel employed by the New +Zealand Company. When all ideas of settling were totally abandoned by the +officers sent out for that purpose, these men chose rather to remain by +themselves than to return home; and we found them busily employed in +cutting timber, sawing planks, and making oars for the Sydney market. How +far they may prove successful, time only can develop; but as these +enterprising men had only their own industry to assist them, it could not +be expected that their establishment could bear a comparison with the one +at Te Horeke, which is supported by several of the most wealthy +merchants of New South Wales. + +As the river became narrower, the habitations of the natives were more +numerous. The chief of this district (whose name is Patuone) has a +splendid village very near the carpenters' establishment we have just +described. He had taken these industrious men under his especial +protection, and seemed very proud of having a settlement of that kind in +his territories, as it gave him power and consequence among all the +neighbouring chiefs, from the trade he carried on by means of their +exertions. + +Patuone had likewise induced the Wesleyan missionaries to settle upon his +land, about a mile below; so that the head of this river assumed quite +the appearance of a civilised colony. + +Our party now disembarked. We landed in a dense forest, which reached to +the water's edge; and our guides and slaves began to divide the loads +each was to carry on his back. Several joined us from the two English +stations on the river, and we then amounted to a very large party; all in +high spirits, and anxious to proceed on our journey. When our natives had +distributed the luggage, they loaded themselves, which they did with both +skill and quickness; for a New Zealander is never at a loss for cords or +ropes. Their plan is to gather a few handfuls of flax, which they soon +twist into a very good substitute: with this material they formed slings, +with which they dexterously fastened our moveables on their backs, and +set off at a good trot, calling out to us to follow them. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +MEETING WITH THE CHIEF PATUONE. + + +We travelled through a wood so thick that the light of heaven could not +penetrate the trees that composed it. They were so large and so close +together that in many places we had some difficulty to squeeze ourselves +through them. To add to our perplexities, innumerable streams intersected +this forest, which always brought us Europeans to a complete standstill. +The only bridges which the natives ever think of making are formed by +cutting down a tree, and letting it fall across; and over these our +bare-legged attendants, loaded as they were, scrambled with all the +agility of cats or monkeys; but it was not so with us: for several times +they seated one of us on the top of their load, and carried him over. The +chief, who accompanied us, made it his particular business to see me safe +through every difficulty, and many times he carried me himself over such +places as I dared scarcely venture to look down upon. + +In the midst of this wood we met the chief of this district, Patuone, +who, together with all his family, were employed in planting a small, +cleared patch of land. He appeared highly delighted at beholding +strangers; and all his wives came from their occupations to welcome us. +He told us that, a very few miles farther on, we should come to a village +belonging to him, where his eldest son was residing, and that we must +there pass the night. + +[Illustration: Patuone, a Notable Hokianga Chief.] + +We thanked him for the invitation, rubbed noses with him (their token of +friendship), and parted. + +Soon after parting with Patuone, we fell in with a most beautiful bull, +cow, and calf. I was amazed at seeing such fine animals in this country; +but my companions soon cleared up the mystery by informing me that they +were gifts from the missionaries, who had orders from Home to distribute +these useful animals amongst such chiefs as they thought would take care +of them: a wise and beneficial measure. These animals were tabooed, +consequently they could ramble wherever they found food most to their +liking. About dusk we arrived at the village Patuone had described to us. +We were most happy to see it, as we were heartily tired, and dripping wet +from a recent and heavy shower. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +A MAORI VILLAGE. + + +The village was situated on the side of a small, picturesque stream, one +of the branches of the Hokianga, but continued droughts had at this time +reduced it to a trifling brook. From its lofty banks, and the large trees +lying athwart it, we conjectured that during heavy rains it must be a +mighty flood. A long straggling collection of huts composed the village: +a great deal of land in its vicinity was cleared and planted, which +doubtless was the ostensible object of Patuone's people being here. As +the village lay upon the opposite shore from that on which we arrived, we +sat some time under the shelter of a large tree, to contemplate its +appearance, and to give time to arrange our party for passing the stream, +and also for my making a sketch. The red glare of the setting sun, just +touching the top of every object, beautifully illuminated the landscape; +and its rays bursting through the black woods in the background, gave the +woods an appearance of being on fire; while a beautiful rainbow, thrown +across the sky, tinged the scene with a fairy-land effect. + +As soon as they perceived us from the opposite shore, a loud shout of +welcome was raised, and all the inhabitants came out to meet us. They +carried us over the stream, conducted us to their huts, and then sat down +to gaze at and admire us. + +As we were very hungry after our fatiguing walk, we soon unpacked our +baggage, and in so doing made an unavoidable display of many valuable and +glittering objects, which roused the attention of our savage spectators, +and caused them, on the unfolding of every fresh object, to make loud and +long exclamations of wonder and amazement. As I was then "a stranger in +their land," and unaccustomed to their peculiarities, I felt a little +alarmed at their shouts; but, on a longer acquaintance with them, I found +my fears had been groundless. + +Here we saw the son of Patuone, accompanied by thirty or forty young +savages, sitting or lying all round us. All were exceedingly handsome, +notwithstanding the wildness of their appearance and the ferocity of +their looks. Let the reader picture to himself this savage group, +handling everything they saw, each one armed with a musket, loaded with +ball, a cartouch-box buckled round his waist, and a stone patoo-patoo, or +hatchet, in his hand, while human bones were hung round each neck by way +of ornament; let the scene and situation be taken into consideration, and +he will acknowledge it was calculated to make the young traveller wish +himself safe at home; but, when I suspected, I wronged them; for after +admiring everything we had brought with us (more especially our +fowling-pieces, which were very beautiful ones), they begged a little +tobacco, then retired to a distance from the hut which had been prepared +for our reception, and left us to take our supper uninterrupted; after +which they placed all our baggage in the hut, that we might be assured of +its safety. + +It proved a rainy, miserable night; and we were a large party, crowded +into a small, smoky hut, with a fire lighted in the middle; as, after +our supper, the natives, in order to have as much of our company as +possible, crowded it till it was literally crammed. However annoying this +might be, still I was recompensed by the novelty and picturesque +appearance of the scene. Salvator Rosa could not have conceived a finer +study of the horrible. A dozen men, of the largest and most athletic +forms, their cakahoos (or mat-dresses) laid aside, and their huge limbs +exposed to the red glare of the fire; their faces rendered hideous by +being tattooed all over, showing by the firelight quite a bright blue; +their eyes, which are remarkable for their fierce expression, all fixed +upon us, but with a look of good temper, co-mingled with intense +curiosity. All my fears had by this time subsided, and, being master of +myself, I had leisure to study and enjoy the scene; we smoked a social +pipe with them (for they are all immoderately fond of tobacco), and I +then stretched myself down to sleep amidst all their chattering and +smoke. + +But all my attempts at slumber were fruitless. I underwent a simultaneous +attack of vermin of all descriptions; fleas, mosquitoes, and sand-flies, +which, beside their depredations on my person, made such a buzzing noise, +that even the chattering of the natives could not drown it, or the smoke +from the fire or pipes drive them away. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +TOILSOME JOURNEY THROUGH THE FOREST. + + +Next morning, at daybreak, we took leave of our hosts, and proceeded on +our journey; we had eight miles more of this thick forest to scramble +through, and this part we found considerably worse than that we had +traversed yesterday. The roots of trees covered the path in all +directions, rendering it necessary to watch every step we took, in order +to prevent being thrown down; the supple-jacks, suspended and twining +from tree to tree, making in many places a complete net-work; and while +we were toiling with the greatest difficulty through this miserable road, +our natives were jogging on as comfortably as possible: use had so +completely accustomed them to it, that they sprung over the roots, and +dived under the supple-jacks and branches, with perfect ease, while we +were panting after them in vain. The whole way was mountainous. The +climbing up, and then descending, was truly frightful; not a gleam of sky +was to be seen, all was a mass of gigantic trees, straight and lofty, +their wide spreading branches mingling overhead, and producing throughout +the forest an endless darkness and unbroken gloom. + +After three or four hours of laborious struggling, we emerged from the +wood, and found ourselves upon an extensive plain, which, as far as the +eye could reach, appeared covered with fern. A small path lay before us, +and this was our road. The New Zealanders always travel on foot, one +after the other, or in Indian file. Their pathways are not more than a +foot wide, which to a European is most painful; but as the natives +invariably walk with the feet turned in, or pigeon-toed, they feel no +inconvenience from the narrowness. When a traveller is once on the path, +it is impossible for him to go astray. No other animal, except man, ever +traverses this country, and _his_ track cannot be mistaken, since none +ever deviate from the beaten footpath, which was in consequence, in some +places (where the soil was light), worn so deep as to resemble a gutter +more than a road. We proceeded for many miles in this unsocial manner; +unsocial, for it precludes all conversation. Our natives occasionally +gave us a song, or, rather, dirge, in which they all joined chorus. +Having at length attained the summit of a hill, we beheld the Bay of +Islands, stretching out in the distance; and at sunset we arrived at the +Kerikeri river, where there is a Church-missionary settlement. + +[Illustration: Mission Station, Kerikeri.] + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE MISSIONARY SETTLEMENT AT KERIKERI. + + +We had travelled all day through a country in which every object we saw +was of a character that reminded us forcibly of the savage community we +were with. Occasionally we met groups of naked men, trotting along under +immense loads, and screaming their barbarous songs of recognition; +sometimes we beheld an uncouthly carved figure, daubed over with red +ochre, and fixed in the ground, to give notice that one side of the road +was tabooed. An extraordinary contrast was now presented to our view, for +we came suddenly in front of a complete little English village. Wreaths +of white smoke were rising from the chimneys, of neat weather-boarded +houses. The glazed windows reflected the brilliant glow from the rays of +the setting sun, while herds of fat cattle were winding down the hills, +lowing as they leisurely bent their steps toward the farm-yard. It is +impossible for me to describe what I felt on contemplating a scene so +similar to those I had left behind me. + +According to the custom of this country, we fired our muskets, to warn +the inhabitants of the settlement of our approach. We arranged our +dresses in the best order we could, and proceeded towards the village. As +the report of our guns had been heard, groups of nondescripts came +running out to meet us. I could scarcely tell to what order of beings +they belonged; but on their near approach, I found them to be the New +Zealand youths, who were settled with the missionaries. They were habited +in the most uncouth dresses imaginable. These pious men, certainly, have +no taste for the picturesque; they had obscured the finest human forms +under a seaman's huge clothing. Boys not more than fifteen wore jackets +reaching to their knees, and buttoned up to the throat with great black +horn buttons, a coarse checked shirt, the collar of which spread half-way +over their face, their luxuriant, beautiful hair was cut close off, and +each head was crammed into a close Scotch bonnet! + +These half-converted, or, rather, half-_covered_, youths, after rubbing +noses, and chattering with our guides, conducted us to the dwellings of +their masters. As I had a letter of introduction from one of their own +body, I felt not the slightest doubt of a kind reception; so we proceeded +with confidence. We were ushered into a house, all cleanliness and +comfort, all order, silence, and unsociability. After presenting my +letter to a grave-looking personage, it had to undergo a private +inspection in an adjoining room, and the result was an invitation "to +stay and take a cup of tea!" All that an abundant farm and excellent +grocer in England could supply were soon before us. Each person of the +mission, as he appeared during our repast, was called aside, and I could +hear my own letter read and discussed by them. I could not help thinking +(within myself) whether this was a way to receive a countryman at the +Antipodes! No smile beamed upon their countenance; there were no +inquiries after news; in short, there was no touch of human sympathy, +such as we "of the world" feel at receiving an Englishman under our roof +in such a savage country as this! + +The chubby children who peeped at us from all corners, and the very +hearty appearance of their parents, plainly evidenced that theirs was an +excellent and thriving trade. We had a cold invitation to stay all night; +but this the number of our party entirely precluded; so they lent us +their boat to convey us to the Bay of Islands, a distance of about +twenty-five miles. + +As the night proved dark and stormy, and as our boat was crowded with +natives, our passage down the Kerikeri river became both disagreeable and +dangerous. The river being filled with rocks, some under, and others just +above the water, we were obliged to keep a good look-out. After +experiencing many alarms, we arrived safely at Kororareka beach about +midnight, where an Englishman of the name of Johnstone gave us a shelter +in his hut. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +In the morning we beheld two vessels at anchor in the harbour. The +Indian, whaler, of London, and the East India Company's ship Research; +which latter ship had been cruising in search of the wreck of the vessels +under the command of La Perouse, and had completely elucidated the +circumstances relating to that event. The Bay of Islands is surrounded by +lofty and picturesque hills, and is secured from all winds. It is full of +lovely coves, and a safe anchorage is to be found nearly all over it; +added to this, a number of navigable rivers are for ever emptying +themselves into the Bay, which is spotted with innumerable romantic +islands all covered with perpetual verdure. + +It is with peculiar interest that we look upon the spot where the +illustrious Cook cast anchor after his discovery of this Bay. Some +unhappy quarrels with the natives occasioned much blood to be shed on +both sides, and for a long time caused this island to be looked upon with +horror, and avoided by all Europeans. It was the courage and enterprise +of the crews of our South Sea Whalers who exhibited these interesting +islanders in their true character, and proved to the world that it was +quite as safe to anchor in the Bay of Islands as in the harbour of Port +Jackson. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +THE MASSACRE OF THE "BOYD." + + +Since the time of Cook, and other circumnavigators of that period, the +character of these people has undergone a thorough change. Then it was +necessary when a ship anchored, that the boarding nettings should be up, +and all the arms ready for immediate use. The principal object the chiefs +had in view seemed to be to lull the commanders into a fatal security, +then to rush upon them, seize their vessel, and murder all the crew! Too +often had they succeeded, and as often have they paid most dearly for +their treachery and cruelty. In the case of the ship Boyd, though they +attained their object, they were as completely punished for their +perfidy. From their ignorance of the nature of powder, and the use of a +magazine, they blew up the ship, and vast numbers of the natives were +destroyed. Besides this calamity, they brought down upon themselves the +vengeance of every vessel that visited these shores for a long period +afterwards. As the circumstances may not be generally known, Mr. Berry's +letter, relating the particulars of that melancholy, yet interesting +event, is here inserted:-- + + "Ship, City of Edinburgh, + "Lima, Oct. 20, 1810. + Sir,-- + + I am very sorry to have the painful task of introducing myself to + you, with an account of the loss of your ship Boyd, Captain + Thompson. + + Towards the end of last year I was employed in the Bay of + Islands, New Zealand, in procuring a cargo of spars for the Cape + of Good Hope. About the middle of December the natives brought me + an account of a ship's being taken at Whangaroa, a harbour about + fifty miles to the N.W. At first we were disposed to doubt the + truth of this report, but it every day became more probable, from + the variety of circumstances they informed us of; and which were + so connected as appeared impossible for them to invent. + Accordingly, about the end of the month, when we had finished our + cargo, although it was a business of some danger, I determined to + go round. + + "I set out with three armed boats: we experienced very bad + weather, and after a narrow escape were glad to return to the + ship. As we arrived in a most miserable condition, I had then + relinquished all idea of the enterprise; but having recruited my + strength and spirits, I was shocked at the idea of leaving any of + my countrymen in the hands of savages, and determined to make a + second attempt. We had this time better weather, and reached the + harbour without any difficulty. Whangaroa is formed as + follows:--First, a large outer bay, with an island at its + entrance; in the bottom of this bay is seen a narrow opening, + which appears terminated at the distance of a quarter of a mile; + but, upon entering it, it is seen to expand into two large + basins, at least as secure as any of the docks on the banks of + the Thames, and capable of containing (I think) the whole British + navy. We found the wreck of the Boyd in shoal water, at the top + of the harbour, a most melancholy picture of wanton mischief. The + natives had cut her cables, and towed her up the harbour till she + had grounded, and then set her on fire, and burnt her to the + water's edge. In her hold were seen the remains of her + cargo--coals, salted seal skins, and planks. Her guns, iron, + standards, etc., were lying on the top, having fallen in when her + decks were consumed. + + "The cargo must have been very valuable; but it appears that the + captain, anxious to make a better voyage, had come to that port + for the purpose of filling up with spars for the Cape of Good + Hope. + + "Not to tire you with the minutia of the business, I recovered + from the natives a woman, two children, and a boy of the name of + Davies, one of your apprentices, who were the only survivors. I + found also the accompanying papers, which, I hope, may prove of + service to you. I did all this by gentle measures, and you will + admit that bloodshed and revenge would have answered no good + purpose. The ship was taken the third morning after her arrival. + The captain had been rather too hasty in resenting some slight + theft. Early in the morning the ship was surrounded by a great + number of canoes, and many natives gradually insinuated + themselves on board. Tippahee, a chief of the Bay of Islands, and + who had been twice at Port Jackson, also arrived; he went into + the cabin, and, after paying his respects to the captain, begged + a little bread for his men; but the captain received him rather + slightingly, and desired him to go away, and not trouble him, as + he was busy. + + "The proud old savage (who had been a constant guest at the + Governor's table at Port Jackson) was highly offended at this + treatment, immediately left the cabin, and, after stamping a few + minutes on the deck, went into his canoe. After breakfast the + captain went on shore with four hands, and no other arms but his + fowling-piece. From the account of the savages, as soon as he + landed they rushed upon him; he had only time to fire his piece, + and it killed a child. As soon as the captain left the ship, + Tippahee (who remained alongside in his canoe) came again on + board. A number of sailors were repairing sails upon the quarter + deck, and the remainder were carelessly dispersed about, and + fifty of the natives were sitting on the deck. In a moment they + all started up, and each knocked his man on the head: a few ran + wounded below, and four or five escaped up the rigging, and in a + few seconds the savages had complete possession of the ship. The + boy Davies escaped into the hold, where he lay concealed for + several days, till they were fairly glutted with human blood, + when they spared his life. The woman says she was discovered by + an old savage, and that she moved him by her tears and embraces; + that he (being a subordinate chief) carried her to Tippahee, who + allowed him to spare her life. She says, that at this time the + deck was covered with human bodies, which they were employed in + cutting up; after which they exhibited a most horrid dance and + song in honour of their victory, and concluded by a hymn of + gratitude to their god. + + "Tippahee now took the speaking trumpet, and hailing the poor + wretches at the mast-head, told them that he was now captain, + and that they must in future obey his commands. He then ordered + them to unbend the sails, they readily complied; but when he + ordered them to come down they hesitated, but he enforced prompt + obedience by threatening to cut away the masts. When they came + down he received them with much civility, and told them he would + take care of them; he immediately ordered them into a canoe, and + sent them on shore. A few minutes after this the woman went on + shore with her deliverer. The first object that struck her view + was the dead bodies of these men, lying naked on the beach. As + soon as she landed a number of men started up, and marched + towards her with their patoo-patoos. A number of women ran + screaming betwixt them, covered her with their clothes, and by + tears and entreaties saved her life. + + "The horrid feasting on human flesh which followed would be too + shocking for description. The second mate begged his life at the + time of the general massacre; they spared him for a fortnight, + and then killed and eat him. I think if the captain had received + Tippahee with a little more civility, that he would have informed + him of his danger, and saved the ship; but that from being + treated in the manner I have mentioned, he entered into the plot + along with the others. + + "I assure you it has been a most unpleasant thing for me to write + about, and I could only have been induced to do it from a sense + of duty, and a desire to give you all the information in my + power, which I suppose may be of some use. + + "I am, Sir, + "Your obedient humble servant, + "ALEXANDER BERRY." + +Considering Mr. Berry's limited acquaintance with these islanders, and +the horror of the scene before him, his is a good and an impartial +account; but facts which have been obtained subsequently have exonerated +the natives to a certain extent. By repeated conversations I have held +with several chiefs who were engaged in this dreadful affair, and from +information I procured at Sydney, I have no doubt but that the Captain +himself was the most in fault. + +[Illustration: Whangaroa, Scene of the "Boyd" Massacre.] + +He was commissioned by the Government of New South Wales to land a native +chief named Philip at New Zealand, whom he subjected to a cruel and +impolitic punishment. This man, smarting from his stripes, and burning +with a desire to revenge his dishonourable treatment, excited all his +friends to the commission of that bloody massacre. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +THE FIRST SETTLEMENT AT KORORAREKA. + + +The tragic fate of the Boyd's crew is now fast sinking into oblivion; +and, like the islanders of Hawaii, after the murder of Cook, they seem to +wish to obliterate the remembrance of their disgraceful conduct by a kind +and friendly intercourse with our nation. The severe chastisement which +they have always received from us after a treacherous action, has proved +to them how little they gain by so debasing a line of conduct; and as +they are most anxious to possess many of our productions, they seem to +have come to a resolution to abandon their former system; which, if they +may not be sensible of the injustice of, they see is destructive to their +own interests; and now every chief is as solicitous for the safety of a +European vessel as he would have been formerly for its destruction. + +They have not only lost a portion of their ferocity, but also much of +their native simplicity of character, which, in all parts of the world, +is so highly interesting a study for the traveller. Their constant +intercourse with whalers, who are generally low, unpolished men, leaves +behind it a tinge of vulgarity, of which the native women retain the +largest portion. In many instances, they quite spoil their good looks, by +half adopting the European costume. Those who are living in the +retirement of their own villages have a natural ease and elegance of +manner, which they soon lose after their introduction to our rough +sailors. I have seen a party of very handsome girls, just landing from +one of the whalers, their beautiful forms hid under old greasy red or +checked shirts, generally put on with the hind parts before. In some +cases the sailors, knowing their taste for finery, bring out with them, +from London, old tawdry gowns, and fierce coloured ribands. And thus +equipped, they come on shore the most grotesque objects imaginable, each +highly delighted with her gaudy habiliments. + +Kororareka beach, where we took up our residence, seemed the general +place of rendezvous for all Europeans whom chance might bring into this +bay. At this time there were two large vessels lying at anchor within a +quarter of a mile of the shore, and I was informed there were sometimes +as many as twelve or thirteen. + +The spot is a most delightful one, being about three-quarters of a mile +in extent, sheltered by two picturesque promontories, and possessing a +fine circular, firm, sandy beach, on which there is seldom much surf, so +that boats can at all times land and haul up. Scattered amongst the +rushes and small bushes is seen a New Zealand village, which at first +landing is scarcely perceptible, the huts being so low. Some of them are +of English design, though of native workmanship. These are generally the +dwellings of some Europeans, who are of so doubtful a character that it +would be difficult to guess to what order of society they belonged +previous to their being transplanted amongst these savages. + +I found a respectable body of Scotch mechanics settled here, who came out +in the New Zealand Company's ship Rosanna, and who determined to remain +at Kororareka. Their persevering industry as yet has been crowned with +success, and they seem well pleased with the prospects before them. + +Here, these hardy sons of Britain are employed in both carrying on and +instructing the wondering savage in various branches of useful art. Here +the smith has erected his forge, and his sooty mansion is crowded by +curious natives, who voluntarily perform the hardest and most dirty work, +and consider themselves fully recompensed by a sight of his mysterious +labours, every portion of which fills them with astonishment. Here is +heard daily the sound of the sawpit, while piles of neat white planks +appear arranged on the beach. These laborious and useful Scotchmen +interfere with no one, and pursue successfully their industrious career, +without either requiring or receiving any assistance from Home. + +But there is another class of Europeans here, who are both useless and +dangerous, and these lower the character of the white people in the +estimation of the natives. These men are called "Beach Rangers," most of +whom have deserted from, or have been turned out of whalers for crimes, +for which, had they been taken Home and tried, they would have been +hanged; some few among them, having been too lazy to finish the voyage +they had begun, had deserted from their ships, and were then leading a +mean and miserable life amongst the natives. + +There is still a third class of our countrymen to be met with here, whose +downcast and sneaking looks proclaim them to be runaway convicts from New +South Wales. These unhappy men are treated with derision and contempt by +all classes; and the New Zealanders, being perfectly aware of their state +of degradation, refuse all intercourse with them. They are idle, +unprincipled, and vicious in the extreme, and are much feared in the Bay +of Islands; for when by any means they obtain liquor, they prove +themselves most dangerous neighbours. + +My friend Shand and myself were most comfortably situated. An intimate +friend of mine (Captain Duke, of the whaler The Sisters) had, in +consequence of ill-health, taken up his residence on shore while his +vessel completed her cruise. In his hut we found comfort and safety; and +from his information and advice we were enabled to avoid the advances of +all whom his experience had taught him were to be shunned. + +On terms of the closest intimacy, and with his hut adjoining that of my +friend Captain Duke, lived Shulitea[4] (or King George, as he styled +himself), a chief of great power, who controlled the whole of the +district where we were. We all felt grateful to him for his +manifestations of friendship, and at the same time were conscious of +enjoying a greater degree of security by his proximity. He was the first +chief who offered protection to "the white people," and he has never been +known to have broken his engagement. An unexpected and remarkable +instance of his adherence to their interests, in spite of temptation, +took place a few years since, which I deem worthy of relation here. + +The ship Brompton, in endeavouring to work out of the bay, by some +accident got on shore, and finally became a complete wreck. This fine +vessel, with a valuable cargo on board, lay helpless on the beach, and +the crew and passengers expected nothing less than plunder and +destruction. The natives from the interior, hearing of the circumstance, +hastened down in vast numbers to participate in the general pillage. But +King George summoned all his warriors to his aid, and with this party +placed himself between the wreck and those who came to plunder it. I was +informed by several who were present at the time, that, after declaring +that "not an article should be taken till himself and all his party were +destroyed," he advanced, and thus explained his reasons for protecting +the strangers and their property:-- + +"You" (said King George) "come from the interior; all of you think only +of what you can get, without considering the consequences, which, indeed, +are of little import to you, living, as you do, out of reach of the +reproaches and vengeance of the white men. But look how differently I am +situated. I live on the beach; this Bay is my residence; I invite the +white men to come and trade here under the promise of my protection; they +come; several years of profitable trading have passed between us. King +George, they say, is a good man; now an accident has befallen one of +their ships in my territory, what must King George do? Why, he _must_ +assist them; which he _will_ do, and defend them against everyone who +shall attempt to injure them." In consequence of this speech, and his +exertions, not a thing was taken from the wreck by the savages who had +collected for that purpose. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 4: The chief referred to by Mr. Earle as Shulitea, or King +George, was a noted Bay of Islands chief named Whareumu. He was killed in +a fight with the Hokianga tribes, in March, 1828. (See appendix.)] + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +MAORI NON-PROGRESSIVENESS. + + +This anecdote proves that King George and his people possessed feelings +of honour and generosity, which, if properly cultivated, might lead to +the most happy results. From the length of time these people have been +known to the Europeans, it might naturally be expected that great changes +would have taken place in their habits, manners, arts, and manufactures; +but this is not the case. Their huts are of the same diminutive +proportions as described by Captain Cook; their clothing and mats, their +canoes and paddles, are precisely the same as when that navigator +described them. When they can obtain English tools, they use them in +preference to their own; still their work is not better done. The only +material change that has taken place is in their mode of warfare. + +The moment the New Zealanders became acquainted with the nature of +firearms, their minds were directed but to one point, namely, to become +possessed of them. After many ingenious and treacherous attempts to +obtain these oft-coveted treasures, and which, for the most part, ended +in their defeat, they had recourse to industry, and determined to create +commodities which they might fairly barter for these envied muskets. +Potatoes were planted, hogs were reared, and flax prepared, not for their +own use or comfort, but to exchange with the Europeans for firearms. +Their plans succeeded; and they have now fairly possessed themselves of +those weapons, which at first made us so formidable in their eyes; and as +they are in constant want of fresh supplies of ammunition, I feel +convinced it will always be their wish to be on friendly terms with us, +for the purpose of procuring these desirable stores. I have not heard of +a single instance in which they have turned these arms against us, though +they are often grossly insulted. + +In their combats with each other, firearms are used with dreadful effect. +The whole soul of a New Zealander seems absorbed in the thoughts of war; +every action of his life is influenced by it; and to possess weapons +which give him such a decided superiority over those who have only their +native implements of offence, he will sacrifice everything. The value +attached by them to muskets, and their ceaseless desire to possess them, +will prove a sufficient security to foreigners who enter their harbours, +or remain on their coasts; as I know, from experience, that the New +Zealanders will rather put up with injuries than run the risk of +offending those who manufacture and barter with them such inestimable +commodities. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +A MISSION SETTLEMENT. + + +A few days after my arrival in the Bay, I crossed to the opposite side, +to visit the Church missionary settlement, and to deliver a letter of +introduction I had to one of the members. Here, on a beautiful bank, with +a delightful beach in front, and the entrance of the bay open to them, +the clear and blue expanse of water speckled over with fertile islands, +reside these comfortable teachers of the Gospel. The name they have given +this spot is "Marsden Vale." They very soon gave us to understand they +did not wish for our acquaintance, and their coldness and inhospitality +(I must acknowledge) created in my mind a thorough dislike to them. The +object of the mission, as it was first planned, might have been attained, +and might have proved highly beneficial to the New Zealanders; but as it +is now conducted, no good result can be expected from it. Any man of +common sense must agree with me, that a savage can receive but little +benefit from having the abstruse points of the Gospel preached to him, if +his mind is not prepared to receive them. This is the plan adopted here; +and nothing will convince these enthusiasts that it is wrong, or induce +them to change it for one more agreeable to the dictates of reason. + +Upon inquiring who and what these men were, I found that the greater part +of them were hardy mechanics (not well-educated clergymen), whom the +benevolent and well-intentioned people of England had sent out in order +to teach the natives the importance of _different trades_--a most +judicious arrangement, and which ought to be the foundation of all +missions. What could be a more gratifying sight than groups of these +athletic savages, toiling at the anvil or the saw; erecting for +themselves substantial dwellings; thus leading them by degrees to know +and to appreciate the comforts resulting from peaceful, laborious, and +useful occupations? Then, while they felt sincere gratitude for services +rendered them, at their leisure hours, and on certain days, _these_ +missionaries should attempt to expound to them, in as simple a manner as +possible, the nature of revealed religion! + +In New Zealand, the "mechanic" missionary only carries on his trade till +he has every comfort around him--his house finished, his garden fenced, +and a strong stockade enclosing all, to keep off the "pagan" savages. +This done, then commences the easy task of preaching. They collect a few +ragged urchins of natives, whom they teach to read and write their own +language--the English tongue being forbidden; and when these children +return to their families, they are despised by them, as being effeminate +and useless. + +I once saw a sturdy blacksmith in the prime of life, sitting in the midst +of a group of savages, attempting to expound to them the mysteries of our +holy redemption--perplexing his own brains, as well as those of his +auditors, with the most incomprehensible and absurd opinions. How much +better would he have been employed in teaching them how to weld a piece +of iron, or to make a nail! + +What causes much disapprobation here, is the contemptuous manner in which +they treat their own countrymen, as they receive most of them on the +outside of their stockade fence. + +On our return from Marsden Vale, our savage friends laughed heartily at +us. They had warned us of the reception we should meet with; and their +delight at seeing us again formed a strange contrast to that of their +Christian teachers, whose inhospitable dwellings we determined never to +reenter. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +A VISIT FROM HONGI. + + +A few days after my visit to the missionaries, while we were busily +employed in constructing our huts, assisted by about fifty natives, on a +sudden a great commotion took place amongst them. Each left his work and +ran to his hut, and immediately returned armed with both musket and +cartouch box: apparently all the arms in the village were mustered, and +all seemed ready for immediate use. On inquiring into the cause of all +these war-like preparations, I was informed that Hongi and his chief men +were crossing the bay in several large war canoes; and though he was +considered as a friend and ally, yet, as he was a man of such desperate +ambition, and consummate cunning, it was considered necessary to receive +him under arms, which he might take either as a compliment, or as a proof +of how well they were aware of the guest they were receiving. + +This man, Hongi, was a most extraordinary character, and a person I had +long had a great curiosity to see, his daring and savage deeds having +often been the subject of conversation in New South Wales. In his own +country he was looked upon as invulnerable and invincible. In the year +1821 he had visited England, during which he had been honoured by having +a personal interview with George the Fourth, and had received from His +Majesty several valuable presents; amongst others, were a superb suit of +chain armour, and a splendid double-barrelled gun. From possessing these +arms, so far superior to any of his neighbours, he looked upon himself +as impossible to be conquered, and commenced a career of warfare and +destruction on all his enemies, and nearly exterminated them. His friends +called him "a god," and his enemies feared him as "a devil." Last year, +Hongi made war upon, and totally annihilated, the tribe who had fifteen +years previously attacked and murdered the crew of the Boyd. He had long +determined to take revenge for that treacherous action, as he always +styled himself "the friend of the English." After this, he removed his +residence, and took possession of the conquered district. But in this his +last battle he had to fight without his invulnerable coat of mail, his +slaves having stolen it and gone over with it to the enemy. His people +were now confirmed in their superstition respecting its being proof +against shot, by his having received during the combat a bullet in the +breast, from the effects of which he is fast sinking into the grave. His +companions related the following extraordinary anecdote concerning him +after he received this wound, which proves his great presence of mind. + +His party were retreating, and the enemy were charging him vigorously; +Hongi stood alone when he received the bullet; he did not fall +immediately, and the enemy were eagerly running up to despatch him, when +he roused all his energies, and shouted aloud for the two hundred chiefs, +who lay concealed, to rush forward and fall on. The foe, hearing this, +paused, when about a dozen chiefs, and indeed, as Hongi well knew, all +that he had, suddenly made their appearance. This caused a panic; they +turned about; the pursued became the pursuers, and nearly the whole tribe +were destroyed. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +INTERVIEW WITH THE GREAT MAORI CONQUEROR. + + +He landed about a mile from the village, and we lost no time in procuring +an interpreter, with whom we went instantly to pay our respects to this +celebrated conqueror. + +We found him and his party; his slaves preparing their morning repast. +The scene altogether was highly interesting. In a beautiful bay, +surrounded by high rocks and overhanging trees, the chiefs sat in mute +contemplation, their arms piled up in regular order on the beach. Hongi, +not only from his high rank (but in consequence of his wound being +toboo'd, or rendered holy), sat apart from the rest. Their richly +ornamented war canoes were drawn up on the strand; some of the slaves +were unlading stores, others were kindling fires. To me it almost seemed +to realise some of the passages of Homer, where he describes the wanderer +Ulysses and his gallant band of warriors. We approached the chief, and +paid our respects to him. He received us kindly, and with a dignified +composure, as one accustomed to receive homage. His look was emaciated; +but so mild was the expression of his features, that he would have been +the last man I should have imagined accustomed to scenes of bloodshed and +cruelty. But I soon remarked, that when he became animated in +conversation, his eyes sparkled with fire, and their expression changed, +demonstrating that it only required his passions to be roused to exhibit +him under a very different aspect. His wife and daughter were permitted +to sit close to him, to administer to his wants, no others being allowed +so to do, on account of his taboo. + +He was arrayed in a new blanket, which completely enveloped his figure, +leaving exposed his highly-tattooed face, and head profusely covered with +long, black, curling hair, adorned with a quantity of white feathers. He +was altogether a very fine study; and, with his permission, I made a +sketch of him, and also one including the whole group. Finding we were +newcomers, he asked us a variety of questions, and, among others, our +opinion of his country. His remarks were judicious and sensible, and he +seemed much pleased with our admiration of his territory. I produced a +bottle of wine that I had brought with me, and his wife supplied him with +a few glasses, which seemed to revive and animate him. + +We were then invited to join him in a trip in one of his canoes, in which +was placed a bed for him to recline upon; his wife seated herself close +to him, while his daughter, a very pretty, interesting girl about fifteen +years of age, took a paddle in her hand, which she used with the greatest +dexterity. I took the liberty of presenting her with a bracelet, with +which she seemed highly delighted; when Hongi, perceiving that I was in a +giving mood, pointed to his beard, and asked me for a razor. Fortunately, +I had put one in my pocket on setting out, and I now presented it to +him, by which gifts we continued on terms of great sociability and +friendship. After a pleasant cruise with this (to us) extraordinary +family, and contriving to make ourselves pretty well understood, we +returned about the close of the day, and landed at the bay. All the +natives were much delighted at our confidence in them, and we were +equally gratified by their hospitality. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +A MAORI WELCOME. + + +I was much amused with the punctilios used in the visit of ceremony paid +to King George. Hongi, accompanied by about a dozen of his chiefs, +advanced towards our settlement, leaving their guns and hatchets behind +them; as they approached, all our tribe discharged their pieces in the +air. When they met, all rubbed noses (a ceremony never to be dispensed +with on formal occasions). They were then conducted by King George to his +huts on the beach, and in the enclosure in front of them the warriors +squatted on the ground. Hongi, being tabooed, or under the immediate +protection of their Atua, or God, still sat apart. Then the mother of +George, called Tururo, or the Queen, and who is regarded quite as a sybil +by the whole tribe, approached Hongi with the greatest respect and +caution, and seated herself some paces from his feet. She then began, +with a most melancholy cadence (her eyes streaming with tears and fixed +upon the ground), the song of welcome. All their meetings of ceremony or +friendship begin with the shedding of copious floods of tears; and as +Hongi's visit was such an unhoped for and unexpected honour, so much +greater in proportion was the necessity for their lamentations. This +woeful song lasted half an hour, and all the assembly were soon in tears; +and though at first I was inclined to turn it into ridicule, I was soon +in the same state myself. The pathetic strain, and the scene altogether, +was most impressive. As the song proceeded, I was informed of the nature +of the subject, which was a theme highly calculated to affect all +present. She began by complimenting the wounded warrior, deploring the +incurable state of his wound, and regretting that God was wanting him, +and was about so soon to take him from his friends! Then she recounted +some of his most celebrated deeds of valour, naming and deploring the +number of his friends who had fallen bravely in the wars, and lamenting +that the enemies who had killed them were still living! This part seemed +to affect them powerfully; and when Tururo ceased her song (being quite +exhausted) they all rose, thus demonstrating their respect and +approbation. + +This was followed by a general attack upon the good things King George +had prepared for them. The slaves came flocking in, bearing baskets of +hot kumaras, potatoes, and fish. I observed their tears had not spoiled +their appetites; they ate voraciously. After having done great honour to +the feast, they all started on their feet for a dance, which lasted a +long while, and with which they concluded the evening. + +The dances of all savage nations are beautiful, but those of the New +Zealanders partake also of the horrible. The regularity of their +movements is truly astonishing; and the song, which always accompanies a +dance, is most harmonious. They soon work themselves up to a pitch of +frenzy; the distortions of their face and body are truly dreadful, and +fill the mind with horror. Love and war are the subjects of their songs +and dances; but the details of the latter passion are by far the most +popular among them. I was astonished to find that their women mixed in +the dance indiscriminately with the men, and went through all those +horrid gestures with seemingly as much pleasure as the warriors +themselves. + +The next morning I was awakened, at daybreak, by the most dismal sounds I +had ever heard. I started up, and found it proceeded from the tribes +parting with each other. They had divided themselves into little parties, +each forming a circle, and were crying most piteously, and cutting their +flesh as a cook would score pork for roasting. On such occasions each is +armed with a sharp shell, or, if he can possibly obtain so valuable a +prize, a piece of a broken glass bottle. All were streaming with tears +and blood, while Hongi and his friends embarked in their large and +richly-ornamented canoes, and sailed from our beach. After his departure, +I soon discovered that, notwithstanding their apparent affection, King +George and his friends were most happy their visitors had left them; and +that it was more the dread of Hongi's power, than love for him, that +induced them to treat him with such respect and homage. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +EXCURSIONS IN THE INTERIOR. + + +I made several excursions into the interior, and each confirmed me in the +good opinion I had formed of the natives. I felt myself quite safe +amongst them. There is a great peculiarity in rambling through this +country; namely, the total absence of quadrupeds. There are abundance of +birds, which are so numerous at times as almost to darken the air--many +of them possessing very sweet notes; and wild ducks, teal, etc., cover +the various streams. Wherever I went I did not discover any grass, almost +every part being covered either with fern or flax; the former yielding +the natives their principal article of food, and the latter their +clothing. To this dearth of animals may be attributed the chief cause of +their ferocity and propensity to cannibalism. + +In most uncivilised countries the natives use their arms against the wild +animals of the forest. The dangers and difficulties they encounter in +overcoming them form a kind of prelude to war, and perfect them in the +use of their weapons. The rifle of the North American Indian would never +be so much dreaded did he not depend upon its produce for his +subsistence. I have myself (during my travels through North America) had +many opportunities of witnessing the certain aim they take both with the +arrow and the bullet; while those in the southern parts of that vast +continent, who depend on taking the wild cattle, acquire, by constant +practice, an equal dexterity with the _lassoo_, which those who have not +witnessed it could scarcely imagine possible. The New Zealander, while +handling a musket, is quite in a state of trepidation; and though it is +his darling weapon he seems always afraid of it, and is never sure of his +aim till he is quite close to his object. I have mentioned this fact to +several Europeans who had accompanied various tribes to battle, and they +all informed me they made a sad bungling use of the musket; their aim +would be surer if they had large and ferocious animals to hunt or contend +with. There is another circumstance that operates against their acquiring +skill in the use of the gun: they are so fond of cleaning, scrubbing, and +taking them to pieces, that in a short time the locks become loose, the +screws are injured, and they are soon rendered entirely useless, to the +great surprise and dismay of their owners, who are constantly pestering +the Europeans by bringing them _sick_ muskets (as they call them) to look +at, and put to rights, and are quite surprised that we "cannot make them +well again." They cannot be made to comprehend that every white man does +not know how to make a musket, or, at least, to repair it. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +ENTERTAINED BY MAORI WOMEN. + + +On the 24th November we took our departure from the bay, as we had to +return to Hokianga, where we had left our brig; and it was only under a +promise of making a speedy return, and remaining longer with them, that +our savage friends would suffer us to leave them. We expected to reach +the Kerikeri River before night; but in this we were disappointed. It at +length became quite dark; and the ebb tide making against us, rendered +further advance impossible. We had to seek some place of shelter for the +night, and not a hut was visible. While we were debating on what was best +to be done, we observed a light from the shore, and made for it; but, it +being low water, our boat stuck fast in the slime long before we reached +the banks; we were, consequently, obliged to wade knee-deep through the +slippery mud. We soon discovered a party of women sitting round a fire +made in the midst of the swamp. They had come here for the purpose of +procuring shell-fish; and as they are never very fastidious about shelter +or dry beds, they had determined (according to their usual custom) to +pass the night where they had been occupied during the day. This sort of +bivouac I found excessively uncomfortable. The moment we were seated the +water began to ooze out an inch or two all round us. We sought in vain +for a dry place, for we were enveloped in darkness, and surrounded by +rushes and flags six or seven feet high; but, being very much fatigued, +we slept, notwithstanding the misery of a wet bed, with a cloud of fog +for curtains. I did not wake till one of the women gave me a good shake, +and informed me that the day was well up. They had prepared us a +breakfast of hot shell-fish, which they had caught the preceding day, and +they all seemed delighted by our eating heartily of them. As we had some +biscuits in our boat, we sent for them, and gave our "fair founders of +the feast" a share; and we were all very sociable and merry. When we left +them, as it was again low water, the women carried us to our boat, and +took their leave of us amidst peals of laughter. This was another proof +to me that the English are quite safe, though travelling unguarded, +amongst these people. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +LOADING SPARS AT HOKIANGA. + + +About nine the next morning we reached the Kerikeri River; and, it being +Sunday, the members of the mission met us on landing, and used all their +endeavours to prevent our travelling on that day; but, independent of the +urgent necessity of our reaching Hokianga, the captain of our vessel, who +was with us, being particularly anxious to return on board, we continued +our journey, and at night came to a bivouac in a dense wood, so that we +now had the luxury of stretching our weary limbs on dry ground. The next +day, as we journeyed towards the river, we fell in with all our old +friends, who inquired into the particulars of our adventures, and seemed +highly delighted at our return. + +We found "all right" on board the brig; but as she was chartered to go to +Tongataboo I and my friend Shand determined to remain at New Zealand till +her return. Our principal difficulty seemed to be which side of the +island we should make choice of for a dwelling-place. When it became +known to the natives that we intended to remain with them, several chiefs +came and offered us their protection; and each would have built us a +house, but we preferred making our sojourn at the Bay of Islands. We were +often at a loss how to evade the kind importunities of our savage hosts +without giving them offence. "Is not our country as good as +theirs?"--"Are you not as safe amongst us?"--"Are we not as willing and +as capable of protecting you as Shulitea?" These were the arguments they +used; and, finally, we were obliged to inform them that we had a friend +and countryman (Captain Duke) settled on the other side, who was +preparing a house for our reception. On being informed of this +circumstance they consented to part with us, though evidently with great +reluctance. + +While we lay here the ship Harmony, of London, Captain Middleton, arrived +from Sydney for a cargo of spars. So large a vessel entering the port put +the whole district into commotion; and when the chiefs understood the +nature of her wants, and had seen the fine double-barrelled guns and +store of powder to be given as payment for the wished-for freight, they +hastened to the woods, and the axe was soon laid to the roots of the +trees. I saw them pursuing their laborious employ with alacrity. In a few +days a sufficient number of fine logs came floating down the river to +load the ship, and they were all cleared in a workmanlike manner, ready +to stow away. The chief things to induce these people to work are +firearms and powder; these are two stimulants to their industry which +never fail. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +DEATH OF A GREAT CHIEF. + + +A few days after our return to Hokianga we received intelligence that A +Rowa, the father of Mooetara, and the eldest chief in the district, was +dead. These deaths, when they occur among men of rank, are generally +accompanied by some horrible scenes of butchery among their slaves--a +common custom among all savages, but practised here (I was informed) with +peculiar cruelty. We went on shore to witness the ceremony of A Rowa's +lying in state, hoping at the same time that our presence might induce +them to dispense with some of those barbarous cruelties which generally +accompany their funeral rites. We had, indeed, every reason to think we +had conjectured rightly, for nothing of the kind took place; which was +considered by all as a circumstance somewhat remarkable. A great +concourse of savages had assembled all round the village of the deceased +chief, and there was a tremendous firing of muskets, but no particular +marks of grief. I spoke to Mooetara, and requested, as a favour, if it +were not breaking through their established rules, that he would conduct +me to the body of his father. He accordingly led me to the outside of the +village; and under a rude hut (constructed for the purpose) lay the body +of the deceased chief, closely covered up with mats, leaving only part of +the face and head exposed; in his hair was stuck a profusion of long +white feathers, by way of ornament. Two women (whom I understood were his +wives) sat close to the corpse; they were painted all over with red +ochre, and seemed to perform the parts of chief mourners. These kept up a +low moaning noise, and occasionally whisked off the flies from the face +of the deceased. The women, the corpse, the hut, and the ground for some +space round them, were all strictly tapued. Some bundles of fish, and +some calabashes filled with oil, were left close by the body, intended +for his consumption during his passage to the next world. + +I imagine that one reason of no outrage having been committed during this +solemn occasion was our brig being on the point of sailing, and previous +to her departure a great deal of traffic was expected to be carried on +with the natives, for there was still a considerable quantity of muskets +undisposed of; and I think, in this instance, avarice overcame filial +affection--the minds of the chief's family being so intent upon obtaining +good bargains, that they had not time to sit and mourn over their +departed parent, nor to work themselves up into a paroxysm of passion +sufficiently violent to cause them to murder their slaves. This afforded +me a convincing proof that as soon as they are occupied by commerce, or +the useful arts, their barbarous rites will gradually be discontinued, +and will speedily cease altogether. + +Our brig having sailed, we were again alone with these wild yet +interesting people. We expected our stay might be about six months, and +had provided a stock-in-trade, consisting of a barrel of powder, half a +dozen muskets, some fish-hooks, and a quantity of tobacco. Everything we +possessed we delivered into the hands of the natives, who accounted to +us for the stock thus entrusted to their management with the most +scrupulous exactness. Nothing can be fairer than their mode of bartering +with the Europeans; the prices are fixed; ten large hogs, or 120 baskets +of potatoes (about a ton and a-half), are given for a musket; for small +articles, such as fish, Indian corn, or fruits, the ready money are +fish-hooks and tobacco. As we were now about to become inhabitants of New +Zealand, it became necessary that we should be well acquainted with the +particulars of their methods of "doing business," and that we should +apply ourselves diligently to the study of the language, which we +acquired much more readily than I had anticipated. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +BRUTAL MURDER OF A WIFE. + + +A few days after the departure of the brig I witnessed a specimen of +their summary method of executing justice. A chief, resident in the +village, had proof of the infidelity of one of his wives; and, being +perfectly sure of her guilt, he took his patoo-patoo (or stone hatchet) +and proceeded to his hut, where this wretched woman was employed in +household affairs. Without mentioning the cause of his suspicion, or once +upbraiding her, he deliberately aimed a blow at her head, which killed +her on the spot; and, as she was a slave, he dragged the body to the +outside of the village, and there left it to be devoured by the dogs. The +account of this transaction was soon brought to us, and we proceeded to +the place to request permission to bury the body of the murdered woman, +which was immediately granted. Accordingly, we procured a couple of +slaves, who assisted us to carry the corpse down to the beach, where we +interred it in the most decent manner we could. + +This was the second murder I was very nearly a witness to since my +arrival; and the indifference with which each had been spoken of induced +me to believe that such barbarities were events of frequent occurrence; +yet the manners of all seemed kind and gentle towards each other; but +infidelity in a wife is never forgiven here; and, in general, if the +lover can be taken, he also is sacrificed along with the adulteress. +Truth obliges me to confess that, notwithstanding these horrors staring +them in the face, they will, if opportunity offers, indulge in an +intrigue. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +ANOTHER JOURNEY TO BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +As there were two roads across to the Bay of Islands, and I was anxious +to see as much of the country as possible, I determined that my second +journey should be by the longest route. I set off, accompanied only by a +native boy to carry a small portmanteau and to serve me as a guide. As, +on my former journey, we travelled many miles through thick tangled +forests, fatiguing beyond description. In the midst of our toilsome +progress, night frequently overtook us; then, by means of my +fowling-piece, I procured a light, the boy made a fire, and we passed the +night in this vast wilderness, far from the habitation of any human +being! At daybreak we resumed our journey, and at length (about ten +o'clock) we emerged from the wood, and entered upon extensive plains. +These were not naked deserts, similar to the ones I had passed through on +my former route, but were diversified with bush and brake, with a number +of small villages scattered in various directions. At mid-day we arrived +at what in New Zealand is considered a town of great size and importance, +called Ty-a-my. It is situated on the sides of a beautiful hill, the top +surmounted by a pa, in the midst of a lonely and extensive plain, covered +with plantations of Indian corn, Kumara and potatoes. This is the +principal inland settlement, and, in point of quiet beauty and +fertility, it equalled any place I had ever seen in the various countries +I have visited. Its situation brought forcibly to my remembrance the +scenery around Canterbury. + +We found the village totally deserted, all the inhabitants being employed +in their various plantations; they shouted to us as we passed, thus +bidding us welcome, but did not leave their occupations to receive us. To +view the cultivated parts of this country from an eminence a person might +easily imagine himself in a civilised land; for miles around the village +of Ty-a-my nothing but beautiful green fields present themselves to the +eye. The exact rows in which they plant their Indian corn would do credit +to a first-rate English farmer, and the way in which they prepare the +soil is admirable. The greatest deficiency which I observed in the +country around me was the total absence of fences; and this defect +occasions the natives a great deal of trouble, which might very easily be +avoided. Hogs are the principal part of their wealth, with which, at all +times, they can traffic with vessels touching at their ports. These +animals, consequently, are of the utmost importance to them; but during +the growth of their crops, the constant watching the hogs require to keep +them out of the plantations consumes more time than would effectually +fence in their whole country; but I have no doubt, as they already begin +to follow our advice and adopt our plans, they will soon see the utility +of fencing in their land. I have at various times held many conversations +with different chiefs on this subject, all of whom have acknowledged the +propriety of so doing. + +A few miles after leaving this beautiful village we came to a spot +covered with heaps of cinders and hillocks of volcanic matter. I found +all these hillocks small craters, but none of them, burning; and for +miles our road lay through ashes and lava. These fires must have been +extinguished many ages since, as there is not the slightest tradition +among any of the natives of their ever having been burning. + +After passing over this lava, our journey lay through a very swampy +country, intersected with streams. I got completely wearied with +stripping to wade through them, so that at length I plunged in clothes +and all. At the close of a most fatiguing day's march, we arrived in +sight of the bay, having travelled over an extent of about fifty miles +since the morning! No canoe being in sight, and we being too distant to +make signals to our brig, we had to pass another night in bivouac on a +part of the beach called Waitangi; and as it did not rain we slept pretty +comfortably. The next morning I procured a canoe, and went on board our +vessel. + +The day following the brig took her final departure from New Zealand, and +we bade farewell to Captain Kent. We now formally placed ourselves under +the protection of King George, who seemed highly pleased with his charge; +and in a few days three good houses were ready for our reception--one for +ourselves, a second for our stores, and a third for our servants. But our +pleasant prospects were soon obscured by a circumstance totally +unexpected, which placed us in a most critical situation, and which we +had every reason to fear would lead to our total destruction. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +VISIT OF A WAR PARTY. + + +I was roused one morning at daybreak by my servant running in with the +intelligence that a great number of war canoes were crossing the bay. As +King George had told us but the evening before that he expected a visit +from Ta-ri-ah, a chief of the tribe called Ngapuhis, whose territory lay +on the opposite side of the bay, and given us to understand that Ta-ri-ah +was a man not to be trusted, and therefore feared some mischief might +happen if he really came, the sight of these war canoes naturally caused +us considerable alarm, and we sincerely wished that the visit was over. + +We dressed ourselves with the utmost expedition, and walked down to the +beach. The landing of these warriors was conducted with a considerable +degree of order, and could I have divested myself of all ideas of danger +I should have admired the sight excessively. All our New Zealand +friends--the tribe of Shulitea--were stripped naked, their bodies were +oiled, and all were completely armed; their muskets were loaded, their +cartouch boxes were fastened round their waists, and their patoo-patoos +were fixed to their wrists. Their hair was tied up in a tight knot at the +top of their heads, beautifully ornamented with feathers of the +albatross. As the opposite party landed, ours all crouched on the ground, +their eyes fixed on their visitors, and perfectly silent. When the +debarkation was completed I observed the chief, Ta-ri-ah, put himself at +their head, and march towards us with his party formed closely and +compactly, and armed with muskets and paddles. When they came very near +they suddenly stopped. Our party continued still mute, with their +firelocks poised ready for use. For the space of a few minutes all was +still, each party glaring fiercely on the other; and they certainly +formed one of the most beautiful and extraordinary pictures I had ever +beheld. The foreground was formed by a line of naked savages, each +resting on one knee, with musket advanced, their gaze fixed on the +opposite party, their fine, broad, muscular backs contrasting with the +dark foliage in front, and catching the gleam of the rising sun. The +strangers were clothed in the most grotesque manner imaginable--some +armed, some naked, some with long beards, others were painted all over +with red ochre; every part of each figure was quite still, except the +rolling and glaring of their eyes on their opponents. The background was +formed by the beach, and a number of their beautiful war canoes dancing +on the waves; while, in the distance, the mountains on the opposite side +of the bay were just tinged with the varied and beautiful colours of the +sun, then rising in splendour from behind them. + +The stillness of this extraordinary scene did not last long. The Ngapuhis +commenced a noisy and discordant song and dance, yelling, jumping, and +making the most hideous faces. This was soon answered by a loud shout +from our party, who endeavoured to outdo the Ngapuhis in making horrible +distortions of their countenances; then succeeded another dance from our +visitors, after which our friends made a rush, and in a sort of rough +joke set them running. Then all joined in a pell-mell sort of encounter, +in which numerous hard blows were given and received; then all the party +fired their pieces in the air, and the ceremony of landing was thus +deemed completed. They then approached each other, and began rubbing +noses; and those who were particular friends cried and lamented over each +other. + +The slaves now commenced the labour of making fires to cook the morning +meal, while the chiefs, squatting down, formed a ring, or, rather, an +oblong circle, on the ground; then one at a time rose up, and made long +speeches, which they did in a manner peculiar to themselves. The speaker, +during his harangue, keeps running backwards and forwards within the +oblong space, using the most violent but appropriate gesticulation; so +expressive, indeed, of the subject on which he is speaking, that a +spectator who does not understand their language can form a tolerable +idea as to what the affair is then under debate. The orator is never +interrupted in his speech; but, when he finishes and sits down, another +immediately rises up and takes his place, so that all who choose have an +opportunity of delivering their sentiments, after which the assembly +breaks up. + +Though the meeting of these hostile tribes had thus ended more amicably +than King George and his party could have expected, it was easily to be +perceived that the Ngapuhis were determined on executing some atrocity or +depredations before their return; they accordingly pretended to recollect +some old offence committed by the English settlers at the other end of +the beach. They proceeded thither, and first attacked and broke open the +house of a blacksmith, and carried off every article it contained. They +then marched to the residence of an English captain (who was in England), +and plundered it of everything that could be taken away, and afterwards +sent word they intended to return to our end of the beach. Our fears were +greatly increased by finding that our friends were not sufficiently +strong to protect us from the superior force of the Ngapuhis, and our +chief, George, being himself (we supposed) conscious of his inability, +had left us to depend upon our own resources. + + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +BURNED OUT OF HOUSE AND HOME. + + +We now called a council of war of all the Europeans settled here; and it +was unanimously resolved that we should protect and defend our houses and +property, and fortify our position in the best way we could. Captain Duke +had in his possession four twelve-pounders, and these we brought in front +of the enclosure in which our huts were situated, and were all entirely +employed in loading them with round and grape shot, and had made them all +ready for action, when, to our consternation and dismay, we found we had +a new and totally unexpected enemy to contend with. By some accident one +of our houses was in flames. Our situation was now perilous in the +extreme. The buildings, the work of English carpenters, were constructed +of dry rushes and well-seasoned wood, and this was one of a very +respectable size, and we had hoped, in a very few days, would be finished +fit for our removing into. + +For some seconds we stood in mute amazement, not knowing to which point +to direct our energies. As the cry of "fire" was raised, groups of +natives came rushing from all directions upon our devoted settlement, +stripping off their clothes, and yelling in the most discordant pitch of +voice. I entered the house, and brought out one of my trunks, but on +attempting to return a second time I found it filled with naked savages, +tearing everything to pieces, and carrying away whatever they could lay +their hands upon. The fierce raging of the flames, the heat from the +fire, the yells of the men, and the shrill cries of the women, formed, +altogether, a horrible combination; added to all this was the +mortification of seeing all our property carried off in different +directions, without the least possibility of our preventing it. The tribe +of the Ngapuhis (who, when the fire began, were at the other end of the +beach) left their operations in that quarter and poured down upon us to +share in the general plunder. Never shall I forget the countenance of the +chief, as he rushed forward at the head of his destroying crew! He was +called "The Giant," and he was well worthy of the name, being the tallest +and largest man I had ever seen; he had an immense bushy black beard, and +grinned exultingly when he saw the work of destruction proceeding with +such rapidity, and kept shouting loudly to his party to excite them to +carry off all they could. + +A cask containing seventy gallons of rum now caught fire and blew up with +a terrible explosion; and, the wind freshening considerably, huge volumes +of smoke and flame burst out in every direction. Two of our houses were +so completely enveloped that we had given up all hopes of saving them. +The third, which was a beautifully carved tapued one, some little +distance from the others, and which we had converted into a store and +magazine, was now the only object of our solicitude and terror. For, +besides the valuable property of various kinds which were deposited +within it, it contained several barrels of gunpowder! It was in vain we +attempted to warn the frantic natives to retire from the vicinity of this +danger. At length we persuaded about a dozen of the most rational to +listen while we explained to them the cause of our alarm; and they +immediately ascended to the roof, where, with the utmost intrepidity and +coolness, they kept pouring water over the thatch, thus lessening the +probability of an immediate explosion. About this time we noticed the +reappearance of King George, which circumstance rekindled our hopes. He +was armed with a thick stick, which he laid heavily on the backs of such +of his subjects as were running away with our property, thus forcing them +to relinquish their prizes, and to lay them down before his own mansion, +where all was safe. By this means a great deal was recollected. The fire +was now nearly extinguished; but our two really tolerably good houses +were reduced to a heap of smoking ruins, and the greater part of what +belonged to us was taken away by the Ngapuhis. + +This calamity had made us acquainted with another of their barbarous +customs, which is, whenever a misfortune happens to a community, or an +individual, every person, even the friends of his own tribe, fall upon +and strip him of all he has remaining. As an unfortunate fish, when +struck by a harpoon, is instantly surrounded and devoured by his +companions, so in New Zealand, when a chief is killed, his former friends +plunder his widow and children; and they, in revenge, ill-use and even +murder their slaves--thus one misfortune gives birth to various +cruelties. During the fire, our allies proved themselves the most adroit +and active thieves imaginable, though previously to that event we had +never lost an article, although everything we possessed was open to them. + +When we questioned them about our property, they frankly told us where it +was; and, after some difficulty in settling the amount of its ransom, we +got most of our things back again, with the exception of such as had been +carried off by the Ngapuhis. + +Upon the cruelty of this custom I shall make no comments. Probably I +should have remained in ignorance of this savage law, had I not had the +misfortune to become its victim. + +By redeeming from the natives what they had purloined from the fire, we +had restored to us some of our boxes, desks, and clothes; but all our +little comforts towards housekeeping were irretrievably lost. When the +fire was over we received a visit from one of the missionaries, who made +us a cold offer of assistance. We accepted a little tea, sugar and some +few articles of crockery from them; but, although they knew we stood +there houseless, amongst a horde of savages, they never offered us the +shelter of their roofs. I am very sure that had the calamity befallen +them, we should immediately have offered our huts, and shared with them +everything we possessed. Here was an opportunity of practically showing +the "pagans" (as they termed the New Zealanders) the great Christian +doctrine of "doing to others as we would they should do unto us." I must +acknowledge I was sometimes mortified at being obliged to sleep (three of +us huddled up close together) in a small New Zealand hut, filled with +filth and vermin of all kinds, while at only two miles' distance from us +stood a neat village, abounding in every comfort that a bountiful British +public could provide; and we, members of that community, and, indeed, +partly contributors to the funds for its support. + +The high state of excitement into which the savages had been thrown by +the late conflagration gradually subsided, and as we had escaped the +dreaded calamity of our magazine blowing up, we began to look with +calmness on our desolate condition, and draw comfort from thinking how +much worse we might have been circumstanced than we then were. I hope our +distress may prove a benefit to future sojourners in this country, by +showing them the great importance of forming a proper magazine for +powder. The agonies I suffered in contemplating the destruction which six +barrels of powder, each of an hundredweight, would cause amongst a mob of +several hundred naked savages, it is impossible to imagine! + +King George, as well as all his people, were most anxious to build us a +new habitation entirely themselves. They requested us to give them the +dimensions of the various dwellings, and said we should have no further +trouble about them. A party accordingly proceeded to the bush to collect +materials. They first formed the skeleton of a cottage containing three +rooms, with slight sticks, firmly tied together with strips of flax. +While this was in progress, another party was collecting rushes (which +grow plentifully in the neighbourhood, called Ra-poo). These they spread +in the sun for twenty-four hours, when they considered them sufficiently +dry. They then thatched every part of the house, which for neatness and +strength was equal to anything I had ever seen. The doors and windows we +employed our carpenter to make, these being luxuries quite beyond the +comprehension of the natives. We were thus tolerably well lodged again; +and our time passed on tranquilly, almost every day developing some fresh +trait of character amongst these children of nature. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +A HOSTILE DEMONSTRATION. + + +I went to reside for a short time at a village about half a mile distant, +where there was a pretty good house vacant. It was called Ma-to-we, and +belonged to a chief named Atoi, a relation of George's, but a much +younger man. His power was not so great, and he was every way subject to +the authority of the tribe under whose protection I had placed myself. +One morning, at daybreak, we were roused by the hasty approach of King +George and all his warriors towards Ma-to-we. All were fully equipped for +war, and each countenance looked fierce and wild. Our late misfortunes +having rendered us more than usually anxious, this hostile appearance +gave us considerable alarm. We left our house to inquire the reason +thereof, and saw George and his followers enter the village, pull down +several fences, fire a few muskets in the air, dance a most hideous dance +of defiance, and then depart; but not one word of explanation could we +obtain from him. In the course of the morning, however, the women +acquainted us with the cause of this mysterious proceeding, which +determined me to remove my things back again to George's village of +Kororarika as soon as possible. + +The affair was simply this: Atoi had two wives. During the time of our +visit to his village, he was absent, and had entrusted these women to the +care of his brother; but he, instead of being faithful to the trust +reposed in him, had actually seduced one of them. This circumstance came +to the knowledge of George, and he, feeling for the honour of his absent +friend, immediately proceeded to the village, and thus gave the parties +warning that he was fully aware of the nature of their proceedings. He +had also dispatched a messenger to Atoi, to inform him of his disgrace, +and to request his immediate return. In the course of the day it was +expected he would arrive, and bring with him a strong party of friends, +all burning with revenge, and eager to punish his brother for his +unnatural perfidy. It was thought that unless George interfered, much +bloodshed might ensue; and it may readily be imagined how anxious we were +that this dreaded meeting should be over; yet I (for one) had determined +that I would be a witness of it. Therefore, when word was brought to me +that Atoi was crossing the bay, I hastened down to the beach. There I +found all parties assembled from both villages. George and his followers, +who were to act as mediators, sat immediately in front of the place of +landing; behind them were Atoi's brother and all his partizans; and in +the rear were all the women and children, with about a dozen white faces +scattered amongst them. The scene was picturesque and exceedingly +interesting. It was near the close of a lovely summer's day--the sun, +fast sinking towards the horizon, threw a warm and mellow glow over the +wide expanse of the far-spreading bay, whose smooth waters were only +disturbed by the approaching canoe cutting its foamy way. It was crowded +with naked warriors, urging their rapid course towards the shore; and we +heard the loud and furious song of the chief, animating his friends to +exertion; we saw his frantic gestures, as he stood in the centre of his +canoe, brandishing his weapons. As they came near the place of landing, +George ran into the stream, and as the canoe touched the shore, attacked +Atoi, but in a playful manner, splashing water over him. Thus irritated, +Atoi jumped on land, and, with a double-barrelled musket in his hand, ran +towards his brother, and doubtless would have killed him on the spot, had +he not been prevented. I now saw the advantage of George and his party +being present. He and three of his subjects seized upon Atoi, and tried +to wrest the weapon from his hands, which if they had been able to +effect, a mortal combat could not take place, such being the custom here. +Atoi was a very powerful man of about thirty, and those who attacked him +had a most difficult task; twice he broke from them; and I then watched +the countenance of his brother, which was perfectly cool and collected, +though the firelock was in readiness, and the finger on the trigger, +which might despatch him instantly. All parties sat perfectly quiet +during the desperate struggle; one of the barrels of Atoi's piece went +off, and the contents flew amongst us, without, however, doing any +material injury; and, finally, the musket was wrested out of his hands. +He then sat still for about twenty minutes, to recover his breath, when +he seized a club and rushed upon his brother (for mortal weapons were now +prohibited). The brother started up, armed in the same manner; some heavy +blows passed between them; when, having thrown aside their clubs, they +grappled each other firmly, and a dreadful struggle ensued. As they were +both completely naked, their hair was the only thing to take hold by; but +being long, thick, and strong, it afforded a firm grasp, and they +committed desperate havoc on each other's persons. At this period of the +fight their poor old mother, who was quite blind, came forward to try and +separate the combatants; the sister and younger brothers now followed her +example; and, finally, the fair and frail cause of all this commotion. + +The brothers, having completely exhausted their strength, were easily +separated; and as their friends had carefully removed all weapons out of +their reach, they of course were deprived of the means of injuring each +other. The members of Atoi's family, together with a few friends, now sat +down in a circle, to converse and consult on the affair. Atoi's wife +totally denied the charge, and protested her innocence, and many +circumstances were brought forward to corroborate her statements. The +husband at length was satisfied, and all parties were reconciled. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +THE LAW OF RETALIATION. + + +This affair was scarcely terminated, when we found that another of a +still more serious nature was likely to arise from it and would threaten +the peace of both villages. When King George sent his messenger to inform +Atoi of the infidelity of his wife, the infuriated husband assaulted the +man, and it was rumoured that he had killed him. This was an offence not +to be forgiven, and George was so exasperated by it that he vowed he +would exterminate the whole of Atoi's tribe. A native, however, arrived +with the intelligence that the man was not dead, but only wounded. This +did not seem to allay George's feelings of resentment, and he instantly +made great preparations for war. When our anxiety was wound up to the +utmost, we were greatly astonished to see Atoi and all his friends +approach our settlement, totally unarmed. George went out to meet them, +looking so full of rage that I thought Atoi stood but a slight chance for +his life. After a great deal of violent pantomimic action and grimace, +the apology offered by Atoi was accepted, and the visit was concluded by +a grand war-dance and sham fight performed in their best manner. King +George, in the fulness of his heart at this complete restoration of +friendship, gave a great feast of kumaras and fish, to which we added +some tobacco; and the whole of the party seated themselves by each other +with the utmost sociality--a convincing proof that animosity is not long +an inmate of their breasts. + +I took every opportunity of inquiring into the nature of their laws and +mode of government, and I found that, in general, their method of +redressing wrongs was very summary, and that their ideas of what was +strictly just were, for the most part, simple and equitable. For any +theft, or offence of that sort, committed by one tribe on another, the +parties are called to instant account. If one native takes from another +any part of his possessions, the party injured has a right to retaliate, +and the party retaliated upon must not make the slightest resistance. We +ourselves experienced a proof of this. Some part of our property, which +we supposed had been destroyed by our late fire, we had been told was to +be found in the hut of a neighbouring chief. We one day took advantage of +his absence, searched the hut ourselves, and discovered our things +carefully deposited therein. Thus assured of the fact, we laid our +complaint before King George, who, after hearing our story to the end, +replied, "Well, my friends, you must go to the hut and take away all your +property, and whatever else you may find, which you may think sufficient +payment for the injury you have received." We accordingly proceeded to +the chief's dwelling, whom we found standing at his door. We charged him +with having robbed us, and entered the house to seize our property. He +held down his head, and seemed ashamed and overpowered at this discovery. +He did not attempt to vindicate his conduct, but quietly allowed us not +only to take away all that had belonged to us, but likewise a musket and +double-barrelled gun, which he concluded he had lost for ever. These we +had only taken away temporarily to deter him from theft in future, for a +few days after we brought them back to him, to his infinite delight and +astonishment. + +I was frequently shocked during my residence in this country by the +number of accidents which continually happened to the natives from +gunpowder, and not even the saddest experience could render them more +careful. We were doubtful of the strength of a French fowling-piece we +had, so we loaded it to the muzzle and discharged it, in order to prove +it. Some young chiefs, who saw us do this (approving of this method), as +soon as they returned home loaded a musket in the same manner, and then +discharged it; but not managing the affair as we did--by means of a +string fastened to the trigger--the piece burst, and mangled two of them +dreadfully, and we got greatly blamed for showing them what was +considered so bad an example. + +A few months since a native came from the interior driving a quantity of +pigs to barter for powder; he obtained several pounds' weight, and set +off to return home. On his journey he passed the night in a hut, and for +safety put the bag of powder under his head as a pillow; and as a New +Zealander always sleeps with a fire close to him, the consequence was, in +the course of the night the fire communicated to the powder, and +destroyed the man and the whole of his family, who were journeying with +him. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +A WAR EXPEDITION AND A CANNIBAL FEAST. + + +Last year a chief, and cousin of King George, named Pomare, was defeated +and killed by the people of the Thames, and George was now resolved to +revenge his death. This determination having become known, we had a +constant succession of visitors, and a considerable number of blows, +scratches, and rubbing noses were the consequence. Our beach presented a +most interesting and busy scene. A dozen superb war canoes were lying +ready to convey the forces; and, considering their limited means, the +solidity of their structure and the carved work on them are surprising. +None but men of rank are allowed to work upon them, and they labour like +slaves. Some canoes were to be lengthened; others patched; others were +condemned to be broken up, and the fragments taken to complete the new +ones. Every morning we were awakened by the sound of the hammer and saw, +and they were much gratified by our walking down to their dockyard to +observe the progress they made, and by giving our opinions of their work. +They thankfully received any hint we gave them as to better methods of +completing or proceeding with their operations. Here were carvers, +painters, caulkers, and sailmakers, all working in their different +departments with great good humour and industry. Some of their vessels +were eighty feet long, and were entirely covered with beautiful +carving. Their form was light and delicate, and if their intentions were +hostile towards us, they would be very formidable alongside any merchant +man. If our Government should determine to colonise any part of New +Zealand, they would find the natives hardy and willing assistants, and +very different from the natives of New South Wales. + +[Illustration: Maori War Expedition (With Mission boat accompanying +it.)] + +As their canoes were ready for launching, they ran them off the beach, +jumped into them, and scudded across the bay with an almost incredible +swiftness. When it is considered that in each canoe were seated eighty +stout young men, each with a large paddle in his hand propelling the +vessel forward, the velocity with which she flew may be imagined! It was +in the midst of scenes like these that we were passing our time, and I +had just become delighted with the appearance of innocence and industry +so continually displayed by these people, when I was called upon to +witness a sight which exhibited their character in its worst light, and +confirmed all my horrible suspicions regarding their alleged cannibalism. + +The New Zealanders have been long charged with cannibalism; but as no +person of importance or celebrity had actually been a witness to the +disgusting act, in pity to our nature such relations have been +universally rejected, and much has been written to prove the +non-existence of so hideous a propensity. It was my lot to behold it in +all its horrors! + +One morning, about eleven o'clock, after I had just returned from a long +walk, Captain Duke informed me he had heard, from very good authority +(though the natives wished it to be kept a profound secret), that in the +adjoining village a female slave, named Matowe, had been put to death, +and that the people were at that very time preparing her flesh for +cooking. At the same time he reminded me of a circumstance which had +taken place the evening before. Atoi had been paying us a visit, and, +when going away, he recognised a girl whom he said was a slave that had +run away from him; he immediately seized hold of her, and gave her in +charge to some of his people. The girl had been employed in carrying wood +for us; Atoi's laying claim to her had caused us no alarm for her life, +and we had thought no more on the subject; but now, to my surprise and +horror, I heard this poor girl was the victim they were preparing for the +oven! Captain Duke and myself were resolved to witness this dreadful +scene. We therefore kept our information as secret as possible, well +knowing that if we had manifested our wishes they would have denied the +whole affair. We set out, taking a circuitous route towards the village, +and, being well acquainted with the road, we came upon them suddenly, and +found them in the midst of their abominable ceremonies. + +On a spot of rising ground, just outside the village, we saw a man +preparing a native oven, which is done in the following simple manner:--A +hole is made in the ground, and hot stones are put within it, and then +all is covered up close. As we approached, we saw evident signs of the +murder which had been perpetrated; bloody mats were strewed around, and a +boy was standing by them actually laughing: he put his finger to his +head, and then pointed towards a bush. I approached the bush, and there +discovered a human head. My feelings of horror may be imagined as I +recognised the features of the unfortunate girl I had seen forced from +our village the preceding evening! + +We ran towards the fire, and there stood a man occupied in a way few +would wish to see. He was preparing the four-quarters of a human body for +a feast; the large bones, having been taken out, were thrown aside, and +the flesh being compressed, he was in the act of forcing it into the +oven. While we stood transfixed by this terrible sight, a large dog, +which lay before the fire, rose up, seized the bloody head, and walked +off with it into the bushes, no doubt to hide it there for another meal! +The man completed his task with the most perfect composure, telling us, +at the same time, that the repast would not be ready for some hours! + +Here stood Captain Duke and myself, both witnesses of a scene which many +travellers have related, and their relations have invariably been treated +with contempt; indeed, the veracity of those who had the temerity to +relate such incredible events has been everywhere questioned. In this +instance it was no warrior's flesh to be eaten; there was no enemy's +blood to drink, in order to infuriate them. They had no revenge to +gratify; no plea could they make of their passions having been roused by +battle, nor the excuse that they eat their enemies to perfect their +triumph. This was an action of unjustifiable cannibalism. Atoi, the +chief, who had given orders for this cruel feast, had only the night +before sold us four pigs for a few pounds of powder; so he had not even +the excuse of want of food. After Captain Duke and myself had consulted +with each other, we walked into the village, determining to charge Atoi +with his brutality. + +Atoi received us in his usual manner; and his handsome, open countenance +could not be imagined to belong to so savage a monster as he had proved +himself to be. I shuddered at beholding the unusual quantity of potatoes +his slaves were preparing to eat with this infernal banquet. We talked +coolly with him on the subject, for, as we could not prevent what had +taken place, we were resolved to learn, if possible, the whole +particulars. Atoi at first tried to make us believe he knew nothing about +it, and that it was only a meal for his slaves; but we had ascertained it +was for himself and his favourite companions. After various endeavours to +conceal the fact, Atoi frankly owned that he was only waiting till the +cooking was completed to partake of it. He added that, knowing the horror +we Europeans held these feasts in, the natives were always most anxious +to conceal them from us, and he was very angry that it had come to our +knowledge; but, as he had acknowledged the fact, he had no objection to +talk about it. He told us that human flesh required a greater number of +hours to cook than any other; that if not done enough it was very tough, +but when sufficiently cooked it was as tender as paper. He held in his +hand a piece of paper, which he tore in illustration of his remark. He +said the flesh then preparing would not be ready till next morning; but +one of his sisters whispered in my ear that her brother was deceiving us, +as they intended feasting at sunset. + +We inquired why and how he had murdered the poor girl. He replied that +running away from him to her own relations was her only crime. He then +took us outside his village, and showed us the post to which she had been +tied, and laughed to think how he had cheated her: "For," said he, "I +told her I only intended to give her a flogging; but I fired, and shot +her through the heart!" My blood ran cold at this relation, and I looked +with feelings of horror at the savage while he related it. Shall I be +credited when I again affirm that he was not only a handsome young man, +but mild and genteel in his demeanour? He was a man we had admitted to +our table, and was a general favourite with us all; and the poor victim +to his bloody cruelty was a pretty girl of about sixteen years of age! + +While listening to this frightful detail, we felt sick almost to +fainting. We left Atoi, and again strolled towards the spot where this +disgusting mess was cooking. Not a native was now near it: a hot, fetid +steam kept occasionally bursting from the smothered mass; and the same +dog we had seen with the head now crept from beneath the bushes, and +sneaked towards the village. To add to the gloominess of the whole, a +large hawk rose heavily from the very spot where the poor victim had been +cut in pieces. My friend and I sat gazing on this melancholy place; it +was a lowering, gusty day, and the moaning of the wind through the +bushes, as it swept round the hill on which we were, seemed in unison +with our feelings. + +After some time spent in contemplating the miserable scene before us, +during which we gave full vent to the most passionate exclamations of +disgust, we determined to spoil this intended feast. This resolution +formed, we rose to execute it. I ran off to our beach, leaving Duke on +guard, and, collecting all the white men I could, I informed them of what +had happened, and asked them if they would assist in destroying the oven +and burying the remains of the girl. They consented, and each having +provided himself with a shovel or a pickaxe, we repaired in a body to +the spot. Atoi and his friends had by some means been informed of our +intention, and they came out to prevent it. He used various threats to +deter us, and seemed highly indignant; but as none of his followers +appeared willing to come to blows, and seemed ashamed that such a +transaction should have been discovered by us, we were permitted by them +to do as we chose. We accordingly dug a tolerably deep grave; then we +resolutely attacked the oven. On removing the earth and leaves, the +shocking spectacle was presented to our view--the four quarters of a +human body half roasted. During our work clouds of steam enveloped us, +and the disgust created by our task was almost overpowering. We collected +all the parts we could recognise; the heart was placed separately, we +supposed, as a savoury morsel for the chief himself. We placed the whole +in the grave, which we filled up as well as we could, and then broke and +scattered the oven. + +By this time the natives from both villages had assembled, and a scene +similar to this was never before witnessed in New Zealand. Six unarmed +men, quite unprotected (for there was not a single vessel in the harbour, +nor had there been for a month), had attacked and destroyed all the +preparations of the natives for what they consider a national feast; and +this was done in the presence of a great body of armed chiefs, who had +assembled to partake of it. After having finished this exploit, and our +passion and disgust had somewhat subsided, I could not help feeling that +we had acted very imprudently in thus tempting the fury of these savages, +and interfering in an affair that certainly was no concern of ours; but +as no harm accrued to any of our party, it plainly shows the influence +"the white men" have already obtained over them; had the offence we +committed been done by any hostile tribe, hundreds of lives would have +been sacrificed. + +The next day our old friend King George paid us a long visit, and we +talked over the affair very calmly. He highly disapproved of our conduct. +"In the first place," said he, "you did a foolish thing, which might have +cost you your lives; and yet did not accomplish your purpose after all, +as you merely succeeded in burying the flesh near the spot on which you +found it. After you went away it was again taken up, and every bit was +eaten"--a fact I afterwards ascertained by examining the grave and +finding it empty. King George further said: "It was an old custom, which +their fathers practised before them; and you had no right to interfere +with their ceremonies. I myself," added he, "have left off eating human +flesh, out of compliment to you white men; but you have no reason to +expect the same compliance from all the other chiefs. What punishment +have you in England for thieves and runaways?" We answered, "After trial, +flogging or hanging." "Then," he replied, "the only difference in our +laws is, you flog and hang, but we shoot and eat." + +After thus reproving us, he became very communicative on the subject of +cannibalism. He said, he recollected the time prior to pigs and potatoes +being introduced into the island (an epoch of great importance to the New +Zealanders), and stated that he was born and reared in an inland +district, and the only food they then had consisted of fern roots and +kumara; fish they never saw, and the only flesh he then partook of was +human. But I will no longer dwell on this humiliating subject. Most +white men who have visited the island have been sceptical on this point; +I myself was before I had "ocular proof." Consequently I availed myself +of the first opportunity to convince myself of the fact. I have reflected +upon the subject, and am thoroughly satisfied that nothing will cure the +natives of this dreadful propensity but the introduction of many +varieties of animals, both wild and tame, and all would be sure to thrive +in so mild and fine a climate. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +SLAVERY AMONG THE MAORIS. + + +The scene I have just described brings into consideration the subject of +slavery, as it now exists in New Zealand. That slavery should be the +custom of savage nations and cannibals, is not a cause of wonder: they +are the only class of human beings it ought to remain with. Here slavery +assumes its most hideous shape! Every one they can effect a seizure of in +an enemy's country becomes the slave of the captors. Chiefs are never +made prisoners; they either fight to the last, or are killed on the spot, +and their heads are preserved (by a peculiar method) as trophies. +Children are greatly prized: these they bring to their dwellings, and +they remain slaves for life. Upon the number of slaves a chief can muster +he takes his rank as a man of wealth and consequence in society; and the +only chance these wretched beings have of being released from their +miseries, is their master getting into a rage, and murdering them without +further ceremony. + +On entering a village, a stranger instantly discovers which portion of +its inhabitants are the slaves, though both the complexion and the +dresses of all are alike. The free Zealander is a joyous, good-humoured +looking man, full of laughter and vivacity, and is chattering +incessantly; but the slaves have invariably a squalid, dejected look; +they are never seen to smile, and appear literally half starved. The +beauties characteristic of a New Zealander are his teeth and hair; the +latter, in particular, is his pride and study; but the slaves have their +heads half shorn. The male slave is not allowed to marry; and any +intercourse with a female, if discovered, is generally punished by death. +Never was there a body of men so completely cut off from all society as +these poor slaves; they never can count, with certainty, on a single +moment of life, as the savage caprice of their master may instantly +deprive them of it. If, by chance, a slave should belong to a kind and +good master, an accident happening to him, or any of his family, will +probably prove equally fatal to the slave, as some are generally +sacrificed on the death of a chief. + +Thus these poor slaves are deprived of every hope and stimulus by which +all other classes and individuals are animated; no good conduct of theirs +towards their master, no attachment to his person or family, no fidelity +or long service can ensure kind treatment. If the slave effect his escape +to his own part of the country, he is there treated with contempt; and +when he dies (if a natural death), his body is dragged to the outside of +the village, there to be made sport of by the children, or to furnish +food for the dogs! but more frequently his fate is to receive a fatal +blow in a fit of passion, and then be devoured by his brutal master! Even +the female slaves who, if pretty, are frequently taken as wives by their +conquerors, have not a much greater chance of happiness, all being +dependent upon the caprice of their owners. + +When I can relate anything favourable to the missionaries, I invariably +intend to do so, which will account for the introduction of the +following: A few days since, I paid a visit to one of their settlements, +and noticed a remarkably fine native woman attending as a servant. She +was respectably dressed, and in every respect (except complexion) she was +similar to a European. She spoke English fluently. Upon expressing my +admiration of her, I was informed that this woman had been a slave of +Hongi's, and that about a year previous he had lost one of his sons, and +had determined to sacrifice this poor girl as an atonement. She was +actually bound for the purpose, and nothing but the strong interference +of the whole of the missionary society here could have saved her life. +They exerted themselves greatly, and preserved her; and she had proved a +faithful and valuable servant. + + + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +PIRATICAL SEIZURE OF A VESSEL. + + +Before finally quitting the subject of slavery, I must give an account of +some white men I saw in this state of degradation, and who belonged to a +chief who visited us some weeks since. In the beginning of 1827, the +Government of New South Wales hired the brig Wellington to convey a +number of prisoners to Norfolk Island, most of whom were felons of the +worst description: the greater part were under sentence of banishment for +life. These desperadoes amounted to seventy-four; by far too many for the +size of the brig, as those whose duty is was to guard them, and the crew +of the vessel, were too few to keep them under subjection. When within a +few days' sail of their destination, they rose on the guard, and, after a +desperate struggle, made themselves masters of the vessel, which was a +very fine one, and was well provided with arms and stores of every kind, +amounting to a sufficiency to carry them to any part of the world they +chose. But the machinations of the wicked rarely prosper, and this was +another proof of the truth of the observation; for, after a stormy and +violent debate among themselves, they at length determined to run for the +Bay of Islands, and if any vessel more eligible was there, they were to +take possession of her, and leave the Wellington behind, she having no +register. It is but justice to them to state that they behaved with +humanity to their captives, and no lives were lost: they appointed +officers amongst themselves, and, with the assistance of the deposed +captain, made this port. On their arrival here, they found two English +whalers, the Sisters, Captain Duke, and the Harriet. The commanders, as +is usual on these occasions, went immediately on board the newcomer. +Captain Duke well knew the vessel, having seen her at Sydney; but, of +course, had no idea of what had happened. The pirates received them with +great civility, and deceived them with a false description of their +voyage--of being bound to a southern port with prisoners; and the two +captains, not having the slightest suspicion of who their hosts really +were, passed a very merry evening with these marauders. + +Soon, however, their bad management of the vessel, their want of +discipline, and the general confusion on board, roused a vague suspicion +in the minds of the two captains that all was not "quite right" on board +the Wellington. The real captain, too, had succeeded in conveying a note +to Duke, informing him of his situation, and claiming his assistance to +recapture the brig, and entreating him to release them all from +captivity. + +This communication produced universal alarm, as both the whalers were +quite unprovided for attack or defence, and all the missionary +settlements lay quite at the mercy of this band of pirates. Had the +latter acted with promptness and spirit, they might easily have made +themselves masters of the whole; but while they were arguing and +hesitating where they would make their first attack, the whalers were +actively employed in getting their great guns out of the hold, and in +preparing their vessels for defence; so that, by the time the pirates +came to the resolution to attack them, the whalers were in a good +posture for resistance, and finally became the assailants. Aided by the +prompt assistance of the natives, the whole of these outlaws were taken +into custody, with the exception of six. The extreme interest the savages +took in capturing these deluded men was truly astonishing. When they were +made to understand that these were King George's (of England) slaves, who +had broken loose, they knew, from their own laws, that they ought to be +taken, and they displayed a great deal of courage and address in +approaching and securing them. + +The pirates (having many passengers and others in their power) stipulated +that they should be landed at Kororarika, unmolested by any of the +English. This was granted; but no sooner were they left by themselves +than a party of natives came forward, seized and bound them, stripped off +their clothes, and, after dressing themselves up in them, conducted their +prisoners on board the whalers; but notwithstanding the anxiety of the +whalers to secure the whole, and the activity of the natives, six of them +found means to elude the search, and here they now are. + +The day on which our houses were burned, these six landed in the train of +one of the chiefs; and I have since entertained a suspicion that it was +their desire of revenge that occasioned the destruction of our property +at the time the calamity happened. I chanced to be in the house alone, +and was amazed by seeing an Englishman enter the hut with his face +tattooed all over. Not being aware he was one of the runaways from the +Wellington, I spoke to him. He slunk into our cooking-house on pretence +of lighting his pipe, and before ten minutes had elapsed, the house was +in flames. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +THE CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. + + +The summer was now far advanced, and never, during its progress, had we +been incommoded by any very hot weather. Our house was generally crowded +with visitors: for, as it was the workmanship of King George and his +people, they were prodigiously proud of it, and each seemed to think he +had an undoubted right to sit in it as much as he liked. This, at times, +we felt as a great annoyance; but we were obliged to be very cautious not +to say or do anything that should give offence to them, as all were +exceedingly irritable, and we felt it to be most essential to our comfort +to continue on friendly terms with them. + +Although we were situated in the same latitude as Sydney, we found the +climate of New Zealand infinitely superior. Moderate heats and +beautifully clear skies succeeded each other every day. We were quite +free from those oppressive, feverish heats which invariably prevail in +the middle of the day at Sydney, and from those hot pestilential winds +which are the terror of the inhabitants of New South Wales; nor were we +subject to those long droughts, which are often the ruin of the +Australian farmer. The temperature here was neither too hot nor too cold, +neither too wet nor too dry. Reflecting on this country--its situation, +inhabitants, and climate--I felt convinced that, if it were the object of +our Government to form a new colony, they could not select a more +desirable spot than New Zealand. When we left Sydney, a disease was +raging there of a most disagreeable nature, namely, catarrh. As usual, it +affected strongly the eyes and nose, and generally proved fatal to the +very old and to children. We found the poor natives here subject to the +same complaint, which they called the "Murray," or "Murraybad"; and they +declared they caught it from us Europeans. + +I could scarcely refrain from laughing while witnessing the strange +methods they adopted to effect a cure. Sometimes they would envelope +their heads entirely in green leaves, at other times they would almost +roast themselves in a heated hut; but their universal remedy, and the one +they generally found successful, was starvation, which is, in fact, the +doctor who cures them of all the diseases the Europeans have imported +amongst them: and, I confess, I have often been amazed at their rapid +recovery from maladies which I should have thought incurable. The other +day I asked the opinion of a clever medical man, who came here with one +of the whalers, and he informed me the only cases he had met with amongst +the natives, which terminated fatally, were a few instances of +consumption. + +After the novelty of our savage life began to wear away, I rambled much +about the country, in order to form some judgment of its capability of +improvement. I never possessed any practical knowledge of farming, and +therefore cannot give a scientific opinion or description of the +different soils. In whatever direction I travelled, and at this time I +had crossed the country in various directions several times, the soil +appeared to me to be fat and rich, and also well watered. From every +part of it which the natives have cultivated, the produce has been +immense. Here, where the finest samples of the human race are to be +found, the largest and finest timber grows, and every vegetable (yet +planted) thrives, the introduction of European grasses, fruits, etc., +etc., would be a great desideratum. Were this done, in a very short time +farms would be more eagerly sought after here than they now are in New +South Wales. All the fruits and plants hitherto introduced by the +missionary establishments have succeeded wonderfully. Peaches and water +melons now were in full season; the natives brought baskets full of them +to our door every day, which they exchanged with us for the merest +trifles, such as a fish-hook, or a button. + +Indian corn was likewise very abundant, but as the natives did not +possess any means or knowledge of grinding it, they were not aware of its +full value. Their only method of cooking it was one very disgusting to +Europeans. They soaked the ear in water till it was quite soft and sour, +the smell from which was exceedingly offensive; they then placed it in +their earth ovens to bake, and when they partook of it they seemed to +enjoy it very much. + +In one of my journeys across the island I was accompanied by my Scotch +friend, Mr. Shand, who prided himself very much upon his general +knowledge of agricultural pursuits; and when I indulged in some sudden +bursts of admiration at the beauty of the surrounding prospect, he would +invariably check my enthusiasm, by observing that no animals could +possibly live in a country so overgrown with fern, and where no grass was +indigenous. These observations, often repeated, obliged me to qualify my +admiration of this picturesque and beautiful land; but my surprise, and I +may say my triumph, were complete when, on approaching the missionary +village of Kirikiri, we fell in with a herd of at least a hundred fat +cattle, browsing on the sides of the hill, and having nothing else but +this very fern to eat; and, on inquiry, we found they gave as good milk, +and were in as healthy a condition, as when they grazed on the rich +grasses of Lincolnshire. + +My friend, Captain Duke, made great preparations for the return of his +ships, and purchased many pigs to be salted. The self-denial of the +natives is wonderful: though very fond of animal food, they sell the +whole to us Europeans for the means of war; thus conquering the appetite +for the purpose of possessing arms to make them terrible in the sight of +their enemies. This feeling, properly directed, may lead to their +becoming a great nation. In the course of our saltings and picklings of +pork, owing to the warmth of the weather, a considerable quantity was +spoiled. I recommended its being immediately thrown into the sea, but +Duke, who knew the propensities of the people better than I did, and +wished to ingratiate himself among them, sent for some of his favourites, +and presented them with the damaged meat, with which they marched off +highly delighted, and made a public feast of it in the evening. + +[Illustration: New Zealand Method of Tattooing. (From a sketch by +A. Earle.)] + + + + +CHAPTER XXXII. + +THE ART OF TATTOOING. + + +The art of tattooing has been brought to such perfection here, that +whenever we have seen a New Zealander whose skin is thus ornamented, we +have admired him. It is looked upon as answering the same purposes as +clothes. When a chief throws off his mats, he seems as proud of +displaying the beautiful ornaments figured on his skin as a first-rate +exquisite is in exhibiting himself in his last fashionable attire. It is +an essential part of war-like preparations. The whole of this district of +Kororarika was preparing for the approaching war. Their canoes, muskets, +powder and balls, increased daily; and a very ingenious artist, called +Aranghie, arrived to carry on this important branch of his art, which was +soon placed in requisition, for all the mighty men in the neighbourhood +were one by one under his operating hands. + +As this "professor" was a near neighbour of mine, I frequently paid him a +visit in his "studio," and he returned the compliment whenever he had +time to spare. He was considered by his countrymen a perfect master in +the art of tattooing, and men of the highest rank and importance were in +the habit of travelling long journeys in order to put their skins under +his skilful hands. Indeed, so highly were his works esteemed, that I have +seen many of his drawings exhibited even after death. A neighbour of mine +very lately killed a chief who had been tattooed by Aranghie, and, +appreciating the artist's work so highly, he skinned the chieftain's +thighs, and covered his cartouch box with it. + +I was astonished to see with what boldness and precision Aranghie drew +his designs upon the skin, and what beautiful ornaments he produced; no +rule and compasses could be more exact than the lines and circles he +formed. So unrivalled is he in his profession, that a highly-finished +face of a chief from the hands of this artist is as greatly prized in New +Zealand as a head from the hands of Sir Thomas Lawrence is amongst us. It +was most gratifying to behold the respect these savages pay to the fine +arts. This "professor" was merely a _kooky_ or slave, but by skill and +industry he raised himself to an equality with the greatest men of his +country; and as every chief who employed him always made him some +handsome present, he soon became a man of wealth, and was constantly +surrounded by such important personages as Pungho Pungho, Ruky Ruky, Kivy +Kivy, Aranghy Tooker, etc., etc. My friend Shulitea (King George) sent +him every day the choicest things from his own table. Though thus basking +in the full sunshine of court favour, Aranghie, like a true genius, was +not puffed up with pride by his success, for he condescended to come and +take tea with me almost every evening. He was delighted with my drawings, +particularly with a portrait I made of him. He copied so well, and seemed +to enter with such interest into the few lessons of painting I gave him, +that if I were returning from here direct to England, I would certainly +bring him with me, as I look upon him as a great natural genius. + +[Illustration: Specimens of Tattooed Faces and Thigh. (From "Expedition +de l'Astrolabe.")] + +One of the important personages who came to the village to employ the +talent of our artist was a _Mr_. Rooky Rooky (and he was always very +particular in remembering the _Mister_); he brought four of his wives +with him, leaving six more at home (polygamy in New Zealand being allowed +to any extent). One of this man's wives was a little girl not more than +ten years of age, and she excited a great deal of interest amongst us, +which, when he discovered, he became very anxious to dispose of her to +any of us. He importuned us incessantly on the subject, saying she was +his slave, and offered her in exchange for a musket. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIII. + +TRIBAL GOVERNMENT AND RELIGION. + + +Though from my increased knowledge of the language, I was enabled to hold +longer conversations, I could not discover that the New Zealanders had +any universal form of government: there appeared to me to be no public +bodies, or any functionaries employed by the people. Each chief seemed to +possess absolute power over his own slaves, and there his authority +terminated. Wealth made him feared by his foes, but gave him no influence +over his friends. All offence offered to any one of a tribe (or clan) is +instantly followed by some act of retaliation by the aggrieved party; and +if one tribe is too weak to contend against the one from whom they have +received the injury, they call in the aid of another. But should the +offence be of a very aggravated nature, and several families be injured +by it, a meeting of the chiefs is called. They assemble in one of their +forts, and, after a discussion, decide either for an amicable adjustment, +or for an exterminating war. Thus these misguided beings are continually +destroying each other for some imaginary insult. + +I became acquainted with a few venerable men of truly noble and +praiseworthy characters, such as would do honour to any age, country, or +religion. They had passed their whole lives in travelling from one +chieftain's residence to another, for the purpose of endeavouring to +explain away insults, to offer apologies, and to strive by every means +in their power to establish peace between those about to plunge their +country into the horrors of war. I have several times met these +benevolent men journeying through the country on these pacific missions; +and twice during my residence here they have been the happy means of +preventing bloodshed. Although the New Zealander is so fond of war, and +possesses such war-like manners, yet are these peacemakers held in the +highest respect, although they do not hold any sacred function--indeed, +no order of priesthood exists amongst the natives. I have never +discovered any symptoms of religion in these people, except it consists +in a great variety of absurd and superstitious ceremonies. Before I +visited this island I used to imagine, from seeing so great a variety of +carved figures which had been brought from this country, that they were +idols, to whom they paid their devotions; but in this I was deceived. +They were merely the grotesque carvings of rude artists, possessing a +lively fancy, and were a proof of their industry as well as genius. Every +chief's house is adorned with an abundance of these carved monsters. One +of their favourite subjects is a lizard taking hold of the top of a man's +head; their tradition being that that was the origin of man. The lizard +is sacred, and never injured by them. Several of their chiefs assured me +they believed in the existence of a great and invisible spirit, called +Atna, who keeps a constant charge and watch over them; and that they are +constantly looking out for tokens of his approbation or displeasure. +There is not a wind that blows but they imagine it bears some message +from him. And there are not wanting crafty men who pretend to a much more +intimate knowledge of his sentiments than the generality, and they easily +work on the minds of the credulous and the ignorant. These imposters +obtain great consideration, and their counsel and advice is most +anxiously sought after by those about to undertake any important +business; but, like ancient astrologers and modern gypsies, they speak +only in ambiguous terms; so that whatever may be the result, their +prediction may still correspond with it. + +Like all rude and ignorant people, the New Zealanders seem more to fear +the wrath of their God than to love his attributes; and constant +sacrifices (too often human ones) are offered up to appease his anger. +They imagine that the just and glorious Deity is ever ready to destroy, +and that His hand is always stretched forth to execute vengeance. + +These sacred, or, more correctly speaking, these "cunning" men and women, +who pretend to see into futurity, and to hold an intercourse with the +Great Spirit, are here (in one way, at least) turned to a good and useful +account. As they themselves are held sacred, everything they wish to have +taken particular care of, they can render sacred also. All the chiefs +find these people of the greatest use in protecting their property, for +they possess the power of tabooing, and when once this ceremony is +performed over any person or thing, no one dares to touch either; and for +a sufficiently good bribe they will impart their sacred power to any +chief, who, by means of this device, thus can protect a field of potatoes +or grain, at fifty miles distance from his settlement, more securely and +effectually than by any fences, or number of persons he might place to +guard it. + +This ceremony of taboo, which is common to the whole of the South Sea +Islands, seems the principal part of their religion, and it is really +difficult to walk without trespassing or infringing on some spot under +this influence. All those who touch a corpse are immediately taboo'd, and +must be fed like an infant, as their own hands must not touch anything +that is put into their mouths. In fact, as we strolled through the +village at the time of their evening repast, it appeared as though some +dreadful disease had suddenly struck the greater part of the inhabitants, +and deprived them of the use of their limbs, most of them being either +fed by their slaves, or lying flat down on the ground, and with their +mouths eating out of their platters or baskets. The canoe that carries a +corpse to the place of its interment is, from that time, taboo'd and laid +up; and if any one by chance touches it, he does so at his peril. + +All those chiefs who were under the operating hands of Aranghie, the +tatooer, were under this law, and all those who worked upon their war +canoes were similarly situated. Unfortunately for me, I one day took away +a handful of chips from their dockyard to make our fire burn clearly. I +was informed they were taboo'd, and upon my pleading ignorance, and +sorrow for the misdemeanour, together with a promise not to renew the +offence, I was pardoned. A poor hen of ours did not escape so well; she, +poor thing, ventured to form a nest, and actually hatched a fine family +of chickens amongst these sacred shavings! Loud was the outcry, and great +the horror she occasioned when she marched forth cackling, with her merry +brood around her. She and "all her little ones" were sacrificed +instantly. What became of their bodies we could never learn; probably the +workmen were not too fastidious to eat them. + +I have observed, since my residence here, one circumstance which proves a +kind feeling in the natives, and shows they are not averse to the +preaching of the missionaries, or the doctrines they inculcate. + +It was the custom of all the Europeans settled here, on the beach at +Kororarika, to refrain from all kinds of work on the Sabbath; to shave, +and dress themselves in their best habiliments; and if any of the +missionaries came over, they went forth to meet them, and hear divine +service. Several of the natives generally assembled and witnessed the +ceremony; and as they observed it came every seventh day, they called it +"the white taboo'd day, when the pakeha (or white men) put on clean +clothes, and leave off work;" and, strange to say, the natives also +abstained from working on that day. Nothing could induce them to the +contrary; not that we wished to persuade them to work, but merely +endeavoured so to do to ascertain the strength of their politeness. Not a +bit of work would they do upon a Sunday, although it was a critical time +with them; for all the chiefs were unprepared with their war canoes for +the approaching expedition. At length we discovered that their cunning +was as conspicuous as their politeness. They had observed we generally +lay longer in bed on a Sunday morning than any other; they accordingly +were up by break of day, and had completed many hours' work before we +made our appearance; but the moment one of us did appear the work was +instantly left off. This degree of outward respect, though craftily +managed, was infinitely more than could be reasonably expected from a +rude and turbulent savage. It is mere respect than we Europeans pay to +any religious ceremony we do not understand. Even their taboo'd grounds +would not be so respected by us, if we were not quite certain they +possessed the power instantly to revenge any affront offered to their +sacred places. + +Of all animals introduced by the Europeans, the most unserviceable, and +indeed injurious, have been the dogs. They have increased rapidly; every +spot was crowded with poor half-starved curs, that were all night long +committing depredations on the poultry, pigs, and goats; and if some +effectual means of diminishing this pernicious breed is not soon resorted +to, the island will be cleared of every other quadruped. Goats were +beginning to increase, and the craggy heights round the bays formed a +favourite retreat for these interesting wanderers. Captain Duke put +himself to great expense and trouble, and effected the importation of +some sheep from Van Diemen's Land; but the dogs soon destroyed them all. + + +THE MASSACRE OF THE FRENCH NAVIGATOR MARION AND PARTY. + +Our friend George generally paid us a visit after the business of the day +was over, and took a cup of tea; wine or grog he detested: so, while he +sipped his beverage, we lit our pipes, and managed, with our slight +knowledge of his language, together with his imperfect English, to keep +up a sort of conversation. Sometimes this was rather wearisome; but +occasionally it became interesting in the extreme. He told us that, when +Captain Cook touched here, he was a little child; but that his mother +(old Turero, who was then with him) remembered his coming well. The +French navigator, Marion, he recollected perfectly, and made one of the +party that murdered him and his people. His observation was, "They were +all brave men; but they were killed and eaten." + +He assured us that the catastrophe was quite unpremeditated. Marion's +entire ignorance of the customs of the New Zealanders occasioned that +distressing event: as I have before observed, that strangers, not +acquainted with their religious prejudices, are likely to commit some +fatal error; and no action is more likely to lead a party into danger +than an incautious use of the seine, for most of the beaches (best suited +for that purpose) are taboo'd. This led to the dreadful fate of Marion +and his party. I understood from George, that when Marion's men assembled +to trail their net on the sacred beach, the natives used every kind of +entreaty and remonstrance to induce them to forbear, but, either from +ignorance or obstinacy, they persisted in their intentions, and drew +their net to land. + +The natives, greatly incensed by this act of impiety, vowed revenge; and +the suspicions of the French not being roused, an opportunity soon +presented itself of taking ample retaliation. The seine being very heavy, +the French required the assistance of the natives in drawing it on shore. +These wily fellows instantly consented to the task, and placed themselves +alternately between each Frenchman, apparently, to equalise the work. +Consequently, in the act of pulling, each native had a white man before +him; and, on an appointed signal, the brains of each European were +knocked out by a tremendous blow of the stone hatchet. + +Captain Marion, who, from his ship, was an eye-witness of these horrid +murders, instantly hastened on shore with the remainder of his crew to +avenge the slaughter of his countrymen. Led on more by ardour than +prudence, he suffered himself to be surrounded; was overpowered by +numbers, defeated, and every one was put to death! + +This account of George's does not, I acknowledge, exactly agree with the +published narrative of that unfortunate event, nor does his age agree +with the dates. Only a few years elapsed between the time of Cook and +Marion, yet he declares himself to have been a child at the death of the +navigator, and a man at the murder of the latter; but as it was voluntary +on his part to give me the above detail, and even if he were not present +himself, he most probably had the facts from one who was, I thought it +worth inserting, as tending to throw light on one of the most melancholy +events which ever took place on these coasts. + +George also related to me the dreadful tragedy of the ship Boyd, and, +horrible as these relations were, I felt a particular interest, almost +amounting to pleasure, in hearing them related by an eye-witness; one who +had been an actor in those bloody scenes which I had before read of: +narratives which from my very childhood had always possessed particular +charms for me; and at this time I was not only looking on the very spot +the hero of my imagination, Cook, had trod, but was hearing the tale from +one who had actually seen him; and was listening to every particular +concerning the transactions of Marion and his men, as though they had +just taken place. + +Even in the dreadful destruction of the Boyd, George laid the blame +entirely on the English, and spoke with great bitterness of the +ill-treatment of Philip, the native chief, who came as passenger in the +ship. He described and mimicked his cleaning shoes and knives; his being +flogged when he refused to do this degrading work; and, finally, his +speech to his countrymen when he came on shore, soliciting their +assistance in capturing the vessel, and revenging his ill-treatment. Over +and over again our friend George, having worked up his passion by a full +recollection of the subject, went through the whole tragedy. The scene +thus portrayed was interesting although horrible. No actor, trained in +the strictest rules of his art, could compete with George's vehemence of +action. The flexibility of his features enabled him to vary the +expression of each passion; and he represented hatred, anger, horror, and +the imploring of mercy so ably that, in short, one would have imagined he +had spent his whole life in practising the art of imitation. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIV. + +THE MAORI VIEW OF CHRISTIANITY. + + +I frequently conversed with George upon the subject of religion, and from +what he told me I found that the natives had not formed the slightest +idea of there being a state of future punishment. They refuse to believe +that the good Spirit intends to make them miserable after their decease. +They imagine all the actions of this life are punished here, and that +every one when dead, good or bad, bondsman or free, is assembled on an +island situated near the North Cape, where both the necessaries and +comforts of life will be found in the greatest abundance, and all will +enjoy a state of uninterrupted happiness. A people of their simple +habits, and possessing so little property, have but few temptations to +excesses of any kind, excepting the cruelties practised by them in war, +in which they fancy themselves perfectly justified, and the tyranny +exercised by them over their slaves, whom they look upon as mere +machines. There is, in fact, but little crime among them, for which +reason they cannot imagine any man wicked enough to deserve eternal +punishment. This opinion of theirs we saw an illustration of one Sunday, +when one of the missionaries paid us a visit. + +The ceremony of all assembling to public worship astonished the natives +greatly, though they always behaved with the utmost decorum when admitted +into the house where the ceremony takes place. On the day in question +the minister endeavoured to explain the sacred mysteries of our religion +to a number of the chiefs who were present. They listened attentively to +all he said, and expressed no doubts as to its truth, only remarking that +"as all these wonderful circumstances happened only in the country of the +white men, the great Spirit expected the white men only to believe them." +The missionary then began to expatiate on the torments of hell, at which +some of them seemed horrified, but others said "they were quite sure such +a place could only be made for the white faces, for they had no men half +wicked enough in New Zealand to be sent there;" but when the reverend +gentleman added with vehemence that "all men" would be condemned, the +savages all burst into a loud laugh, declaring "they would have nothing +to do with a God who delighted in such cruelties; and then (as a matter +of right) hoped the missionary would give them each a blanket for having +taken the trouble of listening to him so patiently." + +I cannot forbear censuring the missionaries, inasmuch as they prevent the +natives, by every means in their power, from acquiring the English +language. They make a point of mastering the native tongue as quickly as +possible, and being able to give their whole time and attention to it, +this is easily accomplished. It is of importance that they should do so, +otherwise they could not carry on the duties of the mission; but by thus +engrossing the knowledge, they obtain great influence over the minds of +the natives. We ourselves were sadly puzzled by a correspondence we had +with two native chiefs, who had been taught to read and write by some of +the Society; but their acquirements being in their native language, were +of no possible use. The difficulty of teaching them English would not +have been greater, and then what stores of information and improvement +might not their instructors have laid open to them. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXV. + +THREATENED INVASION BY HONGI. + + +We had passed some months here, and were beginning to look out for the +return of our brig, to take us again into civilised society, when we were +once more thrown into alarm by a threatened invasion. A rumour was +circulated in the village that Hongi, who now lay at the point of death, +had declared that he would make one last glorious effort before he +expired. He was resolved (it was reported) to collect his warriors, +overcome George and his followers, possess himself of Kororarika, and die +upon the conquered territory of his enemy; and I had no doubt that in his +moment of delirium such had been his exclamations, as it had always been +one of his favourite projects. When this was reported to George, he +immediately came to us, and with a most doleful countenance told us we +must take care of ourselves; for, if the report proved true, he was much +too weak to protect us. This certainly caused us some alarm, but, +fortunately for us, a good-sized whaler, the Marianne, was then lying at +anchor in the port, having arrived but a few days previously. The +presence of a ship, all over the world, is felt as a protection to +Europeans, as in case of danger it is a sure place of refuge. + +King George sent off his messengers in every direction to inform his +friends and dependants of the threats uttered against him by Hongi, and +the next day eight large war canoes, filled with warriors, came to his +assistance. They landed at some distance from the beach, and, as it was +late in the day, they would not make their public _entree_ till the next +morning; for the New Zealanders are very fond of giving a grand effect to +all their public meetings. I determined to pay them a visit, to witness +the ceremonies of the night bivouack, which proved a most picturesque +scene, and wild and beautiful in the extreme. Their watch fires glanced +upon the dark skins of these finely formed men, and on their bright +weapons. Some groups were dancing; others were lying round a fire, +chanting wild songs, descriptive of former wars; whilst the graver elders +sat in a circle, and discussed the present state of affairs. All were +delighted to see me, and each group offered to share their fire and +provisions with the "white visitor," as they termed me. + +The next morning these auxiliary forces were seen descending the hills to +our village; and, in order to return the compliment, we all went in our +best array to receive them. There were upwards of two hundred athletic, +naked savages, each armed with his firelock, and marching with the utmost +regularity. The chiefs took the lead. The alarm such a sight might have +created was dissipated by the certainty that they came as our protectors. +I even imagined their countenances were not so ferocious as usual but as +they approached near to our party, the usual sham fight began, +accompanied by the war dance, and although I expected it, and indeed had +come for the purpose of witnessing it, it was conducted with so much fury +on both sides, that at length I became quite horrified, and for some +time could not divest myself of the feeling that our visitors were +playing false, so closely did this mock combat resemble a real one. The +dreadful noises, the hideous faces, the screeching of the women, and the +menacing gestures of each party, were so calculated to inspire terror, +that stouter hearts than mine might have felt fear. When the tumult +subsided, the elder chiefs squatted down, and had the long talk usual on +these occasions. + +I was much delighted to recognise among these chiefs one I had known at +Sydney. During his residence in that city I had permitted him to remain +in my house, and the few presents which he had requested on his return to +his own country I had provided him with, and sent him off delighted and +happy, and never expected to behold him again. The moment I approached he +recollected me, jumped up from the "council," ran up to me, hugged me in +his arms, and rubbed noses so forcibly with me that I felt his friendship +for some time, besides being daubed all over most plentifully with red +ochre, which he, being then on a war-like and ceremonious visit, was +smeared with from head to foot. + +When my savage friend (whom we used to call Mr. Tookee) had overcome his +first burst of delight at seeing me, and had literally left off jumping +for joy, he introduced me to his father, Mr. De Frookee, the chief of his +tribe, a very fine specimen of an old New Zealander, who was (I found) +highly respected for his integrity and benevolence. His eyes overflowed +with tears when he heard I was the person who had shown such kindness to +his son at Sydney. I soon felt quite "at home" with the old chief, and +experienced the good effect of having kept my word with this uncultivated +savage. I had, at the time I presented him with the gifts, been much +laughed at by my acquaintances at Sydney for putting myself to such +unnecessary expense; but, from the gratitude he displayed for the +trifling services I had then rendered him, I felt assured he and his +companions would do all in their power to protect me from every danger. + +A long discussion was now carried on, one speaker at a time occupying the +oblong space round which the warriors sat, and the more animated the +debate, the faster ran the speaker to and fro, flourishing his hatchet in +a most dexterous manner. The instant one speaker finishes, another starts +up to answer him; but previous to rising they throw a mat or blanket over +their shoulders, and arrange it most tastefully around them; and, as +their attitudes are all striking and graceful, and a great part of the +figure is left exposed, it forms a study for an artist, well worth his +going many miles to witness, and invariably reminded me of the fine +models of antiquity. + +As a painter, I conceive that this must have been the great secret of the +perfection to which the Greek and Roman sculptors brought their works; as +they constantly contemplated the display of the human form in all its +beauty in their various gymnastic exercises, which enabled them to +transfer to marble such ease and elegance as we, living in an age of +coats and breeches, never shall be able to rival. + +After the important subjects had been settled by the elders, the young +men assembled without their weapons, and began another kind of sham +fight, one grappling with another, till hundreds of them were locked in +each other's arms, and were flung in heaps in every direction. After +they were tired of this pastime, a regular ring was formed, and a +wrestling match began, which was carried on in as regular and fair a +manner as a boxing match in our own country, and as much skill and +cunning were displayed in the art of throwing as the greatest connoisseur +would desire. I was pleased, also, to observe that, whatever happened +(and some most severe throws and blows passed), nothing could disturb +their good humour. + +This party, having remained for seven days on our beach, and not hearing +anything more of our intended invaders, their provisions also becoming +rather scarce, took leave in order to return to their own district, +placing scouts to give them quick intelligence of the movements of the +enemy. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVI. + +ARRIVAL OF A WARSHIP. + + +A few days after the departure of this friendly tribe, a "King's ship" of +eighteen guns arrived in the Bay; consequently all our fears of an +immediate invasion were over. No sooner had she cast anchor than our +friend George came to us, expressing the greatest anxiety to visit King +George of England's warship, and requesting we would accompany him, which +we readily agreed to do; and he left us to adorn himself for the +occasion. Soon after he reappeared in great state. A very splendid +war-mat was thrown over his shoulders; his hair was dressed, oiled, and +decorated with feathers, and his person was plentifully covered with red +ochre: he appeared a very fine-looking fellow: his mother, his three +wives, and all his sons and daughters were dressed in equal magnificence, +and accompanied him. + +In this state we went off to visit the vessel; but the moment I came +alongside, I repented my being there, for the rude and churlish manner in +which we were received distressed me considerably. In the first place, an +order was given that none but the chief himself should be allowed to come +on board; consequently his wives and daughters were obliged to remain in +the canoe. The captain spoke only a few words to George, who was allowed +to remain but a few minutes in the cabin; on getting up to take leave, +George took off his fine war-mantle and presented it to the captain; but, +receiving no other covering in return for his gift, he went on shore +naked! The officers of the vessel behaved differently: they conducted us +all down into the gun-room, where they treated us most kindly, and paid +every attention to our friend George, whose dignity was deeply wounded by +the cool and contemptuous behaviour of the captain. + +How greatly is it to be regretted that some arrangements are not made by +our Government at Home, and that there are not orders given to commanders +of ships of war touching here to pay attention to the chiefs, and to make +some trifling presents amongst them; for there never were a people more +anxious to cultivate a friendly intercourse with British subjects than +the inhabitants of New Zealand: and yet there is scarcely a Government +vessel that puts into port here but the natives receive some insult, +though they are sent for the express purpose of supporting the dignity of +the English nation, and to cultivate the amicable feelings of the chiefs. + +When a "King's ship" comes to anchor, the chiefs (with all the glee of +children going to a fair) collect together their wives, children, and +friends, and pay a visit to the "fighting ships," to see King George's +warriors (as they call them): when they come alongside they are kept off +by an armed sentry; and, after a long parley, they are informed the chief +may come, but his family and friends must not. In this case, the natives +generally spit at the vessel, and, uttering execrations on their +inhospitality, return on shore. + +One of the savage chieftains who accompanied us to the vessel in +question, on our way back remarked, "that the white warriors were +_afraid_ of admitting them, though they were unarmed and but a few; while +the warriors in the ships were many, and armed with their great guns." + +Living entirely amongst these people so long as I had done, I felt the +absurdity of such conduct, and the folly of treating them so harshly. If +ever individuals are so situated as to need either the esteem or the +confidence of savages, they must bear with their prying and childish +curiosity, and not be afraid of treating them too kindly; by this means +they become the quietest and gentlest creatures in the world; but, if +treated with contumely, and their wives and families repulsed from your +ship, they become dangerous, vindictive, and cruel neighbours, as many a +dreadful deed which has taken place in this vicinity will fully prove. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVII. + +THE WHALERS AND THE MISSIONARIES. + + +The South Sea whalers are the ships the natives are the most anxious to +see on their coasts; and it is the crews of those vessels who have, in a +manner, civilised these hardy islanders. Captain Gardiner, of the +Marianne (the vessel now in the harbour), is the oldest person in that +trade; and he informed me, that not longer than twenty years back +scarcely any vessel would dare to touch at New Zealand; and when, from +particular circumstances, they were obliged so to do, they kept their +boarding-nettings up, and kept a strict guard night and day: their fears +arose from a want of knowledge of the disposition of the people. The +vessels frequenting the island use no precautions now: hundreds of +natives are permitted to crowd on board each ship; and no accident has +ever occurred from this mode of treatment. But when a ship of war arrives +here for the first time, the precautions taken are, to arm the row-guard +with cutlasses and pistols, and to harass the crew with constant +watching, while the only enemy that exists is in their own imaginations. +To the courage and enterprise of the commanders of whalers all credit is +due for working the rapid change in these once bloody-minded savages, and +forming safe and commodious harbours for their vessels to refit in: this +have they done in a part of the world lately looked upon with horror. +What credit soever the missionaries may take to themselves, or try to +make their supporters in England believe, every man who has visited this +place, and will speak his mind freely and disinterestedly, must +acknowledge _they_ have had no share in bringing about this change of +character; but, on the contrary, they have done all that in them lay to +injure the reputation of the whaler in the estimation of the natives. +Hitherto they have not succeeded: their want of hospitality and kindness +to their own countrymen raises a strong dislike to them in the minds of +these unsophisticated people. According to their simple notions of right +and wrong, they think the want of hospitality an unpardonable offence, +and that the counsel or advice of a man who shuts his door against his +neighbour is not worthy of being attended to. + +I will give the reader one more anecdote of these men, who are sent out +to set an example of the beauty of the Christian faith to the +unenlightened heathens. A few weeks since, the festival of Christmas took +place; and Englishmen, in whatever part of the world they chance to be, +make a point of assembling together on that day, our recollections then +being associated with "home" and our families, uniting to spend that day +in mutual congratulations and wishes for happiness. For some time +previous to its arrival, the captains of the two whalers and myself had +been deliberating where we should spend this social day; and it was +finally settled that we should cross the bay to Te Puna, a beautiful and +romantic spot, the residence of an intelligent chief, called Warri Pork, +and an Englishman, named Hanson. Near this was a church missionary +establishment; and at this Englishman's house we determined we would +spend the day. The captains of the two whalers then in the harbour +joined our party; and as everyone contributed his share towards our +picnic feast, the joint stock made altogether a respectable appearance. + +We proceeded to Te Puna in two whaleboats: it was a most delightful trip, +the scenery being strikingly beautiful. The village of Ranghe Hue, +belonging to Warri Pork, is situated on the summit of an immense and +abrupt hill: the huts belonging to the savages appeared, in many places, +as though they were overhanging the sea, the height being crowned with a +mighty pah. At the bottom of this hill, and in a beautiful valley, the +cottages of the missionaries are situated, complete pictures of English +comfort, content, and prosperity; they are close to a bright sandy beach: +a beautiful green slope lies in their rear, and a clear and never-failing +stream of water runs by the side of their enclosures. As the boats +approached this lovely spot, I was in an ecstasy of delight: such a happy +mixture of savage and civilised life I had never seen before; and when I +observed the white smoke curling out of the chimneys of my countrymen, I +anticipated the joyful surprise, the hearty welcome, the smiling faces, +and old Christmas compliments that were going to take place, and the +great pleasure it would give our secluded countrymen to meet us, in these +distant regions, at this happy season, and talk of our relatives and +friends in England. + +My romantic notions were soon crushed; our landing gave no pleasure to +these secluded Englishmen: they gave us no welcome; but, as our boats +approached the shore, they walked away to their own dwellings, closed +their gates and doors after them, and gazed at us through their windows; +and during three days that we passed in a hut quite near them, they +never exchanged one word with any of the party. Thus foiled in our hopes +of spending a social day with our compatriots, after our dinner was over +we sent materials for making a bowl of punch up the hill to the chiefs, +and spent the remainder of the day surrounded by generous savages, who +were delighted with our company, and who did everything in their power to +make us comfortable. In the course of the afternoon two of the mission +came up to preach; but the savages were so angry with them for not +showing more kindness to their own countrymen, that none would listen to +them. + +I have visited many of the Roman Catholic missionary establishments; +their priests adopt quite a different line of conduct: they are cheerful +and kind to the savage pagan, and polite and attentive to their European +brethren; they have gained the esteem of those they have been sent to +convert; they have introduced their own language amongst them, which +enables them to have intercourse with strangers; and, however we may +differ in some tenets of religious belief, we must acknowledge the +success of their mission. They have brought nearly the whole of the +Indian population in South America into the bosom of their church; and +their converts form the greater part of the people. Notwithstanding the +numerous church and sectarian missionaries sent from England, I never met +with one Indian converted by them. I have attended mass in an Indian +village; a native priest performed the ceremony, and the whole +congregation (except myself) were of his cast and complexion: and, it is +worthy of remark, that in Peru, and some of the most populous provinces, +a pagan is scarcely to be found. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVIII. + +THREATENED WAR. + + +We now heard that Tetoro (one of the most powerful chiefs of this part of +the island) had taken offence, and had sent a defiance to King George, +saying he intended coming to seek revenge, accompanied by a strong body +of warriors; and the "herald" who brought this proclamation informed us +that the English settlers were to be attacked and plundered also. + +We had every reason to fear this might prove a more calamitous affair +than any we had yet experienced; as George immediately collected all his +family and dependents, and took his departure for the Kawakawa river (the +residence of De Kookie, the chief who had come to his assistance against +Hongi's attack), leaving behind only a few slaves. Thus a second time +were we left to our own resources on Kororarika Beach. George and his +followers were too much scattered: some were trading with the ships, +others were distributed in various districts, attending to their +agricultural pursuits. Thus separated, each might become an easy prey to +any of the powerful chiefs; but, were they united, they would be too +strong for any of the tribes: unfortunately the hope of gain made them +risk so great a danger. At this period, too, there was not a single +vessel in the bay to protect us. The known partiality of all the tribes +for Europeans was the only consolation we had; and we endeavoured to +cheer each other with this hope, under what in reality might be +considered very appalling circumstances. + +After enduring this state of suspense and anxiety for several days, and +no enemy appearing, we determined to pay a visit to the camp of the +combined army of our friends, which would, at the same time, gratify our +own curiosity, and give them a degree of satisfaction; as it would prove +to them that we were not afraid of venturing amongst them, even in times +of danger. We accordingly prepared the whaleboats to proceed up the +Kawakawa river; and, as I had never been there before, the present +afforded an excellent opportunity for exploring that picturesque spot. + +At the top of the Bay of Islands, two rivers disembogue, the Wye Catte +and the Kawakawa: they are both small but beautiful streams. It was early +in the morning when we started: the dewy mist rose from the unruffled +bosom of the river like the gradual lifting up of a curtain, and, at +length, displayed its lofty sides, covered with immense trees, the +verdure extending to the very edge of the water. All was quiet, +beautiful, and serene; the only sounds which broke the calm were the wild +notes of the tui (or New Zealand blackbird), the splashing of our own +oars, or the occasional flight of a wild duck (or shag), disturbed by our +approach. + +We rowed our boat many miles without seeing the slightest vestige of any +human inhabitants or civilisation: all appeared wild and magnificent as +if just fresh from the hands of nature; and it failed not to lead the +mind up to the contemplation of the Creator. It seemed utterly impossible +to reconcile the idea that such lonely, romantic, and sequestered scenes +could conceal hordes of savage cannibals, or that the tranquility of this +very place would soon be exchanged for the noise and tumult of savage +warfare. We soon reached the village where the coalesced chiefs had taken +up their station: they had fortified their position, and were waiting the +approach of the enemy. No sooner, however, was our arrival known, than +all came running down tumultuously to give us welcome: all business was +laid aside to greet our landing, and we were conducted with great +ceremony into the centre of the camp. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIX. + +CONSTRUCTION OF A PA. + + +We found eight hundred warriors, who (to use a sea phrase) were "all at +quarters." The magic pen of Scott might here have been well employed to +describe "The Gathering." The chiefs sat apart from their followers in +deep consultation: we did not approach near enough to hear their +discussion; but it ended by their paying us a high compliment for coming +amongst them. The young and active were busily employed in constructing a +strong stockade fort to annoy the enemy as he approached; others were +preparing their weapons, or practising the use of arms. + +The village itself was an object of extreme interest; and, after +contemplating the war-like preparations of the chiefs, we turned with +pleasure to gaze on the beauty of the surrounding country. In a plain, +surrounded by high hills, with a beautiful stream of water meandering +through it, was situated a group of huts; and many acres of cultivated +ground, neatly fenced and cleared, encircled them. Their harvest, +consisting of Indian corn, potatoes, and kumara, was now ready for +gathering, and all the women were busily occupied. As I from an eminence +looked down upon their labours, I could almost fancy I was in Italy, and +beheld the peasantry at work in their vineyards: but the adjacent camp +and naked warriors soon dissipated the illusion! + +On approaching the village we occasioned quite a commotion: the girls +brought forth baskets filled with cooked kumaras and peaches, while the +men erected a tent to screen us from the rays of the sun: indeed, all +seemed anxious to do something that should prove acceptable to us. We had +brought with us sufficient provision for a good dinner which was soon +cooked, and we invited them to partake of our fare, and a very merry and +noisy group we formed. After our repast, the chief warriors took us round +their camp, and exhibited to us all their means of defence, and the +different works they had thrown up. Where the use of artillery is +unknown, the principles of fortification are simple, and the New +Zealanders seem to possess a clear notion of the art: necessity being +with them the mother of invention. + +In the direction where the approach of the enemy was expected, they had +erected a strong square stockade, to molest the army; while the women and +children retired to the principal fort, which was very strong, and +situated at the summit of the highest hill: it had a breast-work all +round it about five feet high, and a broad ditch beyond that. The +fortress was large enough to contain several hundred men: it had a +spacious glacis in front, and every approach to it was so completely +exposed, that we thought even a body of regular troops, without +artillery, would have found it very difficult to storm; and to the New +Zealand warrior it seemed a wonderful and impregnable work. + +The chief who had the command of this fort was our old acquaintance Kiney +Kiney, a younger brother of King George's, who seemed proud of this +honour, and appeared highly delighted in showing us round, and +explaining everything to us; even condescending to ask our advice as to +any means of adding strength and security to the works. He listened +attentively to all our observations; and if he approved any alteration we +suggested he ordered it instantly to be carried into effect. I noticed a +thicket too near the fort, and told him I thought it might shelter a body +of men, and before I left the pa it was reduced to a heap of ashes. +Sentinels were posted in every direction to give notice of the approach +of an enemy. _Mr._ Kiney Kiney (as he was sometimes called) was +splendidly apparelled on this occasion: he had, by some means or other, +become possessed of a light infantry sabre, with all its paraphernalia of +belts and buckles; this was girded round his naked body, which gave him a +very gallant air, and, I have no doubt, was the envy and admiration of +all his followers. + + + + + +CHAPTER XL. + +A SHAM FIGHT. + + +After we had seen and approved all their preparations, we were treated +with a grand review and sham fight: they divided themselves into two +parties; one half the number took their station on a hill, and lay +concealed; the other party crouched on the plains to receive the attack, +all kneeling on one knee, with their eyes fixed on the spot whence they +expected the rush of their pretended enemies. In a moment, the concealed +party burst forth from their ambush, with a tremendous and simultaneous +shout, and the mock battle began with great fury. + +Nothing in nature can be imagined more horrible than the noise they make +on these occasions. I have heard, under circumstances of some peril, the +North American Indian war-whoop; but that is trifling compared with it +and their countenances are hideous beyond description. My principal +astonishment on these occasions was, that they did not actually kill each +other, or, at least, break each other's bones; for they seemed to strike +with all the fury and vigour of a real engagement; but they kept such +exact time, that at a moment's notice they all left off, and began joking +and laughing, except a very few, whom I observed to sneak away to wash +off some bloody witness, or to put a plaster on their broken skin. + +After these military and gymnastic exhibitions, they formed a grand +assembly, and the chiefs, as usual, made long speeches in rotation. This +rude parliament is one of the most beautiful features in savage +government: all public matters are discussed openly, grievances are +complained of, and justice is summarily administered. + +Thus, after spending a pleasant day, we rose to depart, and took an +affectionate leave of our entertainers, who were most anxious that we +should remain longer; but we thought we had better return to Kororarika, +where our property had been left. Most of the chiefs accompanied us to +our boats, and, after exhibiting various testimonies of their friendly +feeling towards us, they suffered us to depart. + +The day following this visit, we were alarmed by the appearance of two +war canoes crossing the bay: we waited their approach with considerable +anxiety: what few valuables we had with us we concealed about our +persons; but, as they neared our beach, our fears subsided, on finding +there were only a few men in each. Three chiefs (unarmed) landed, whom we +found to be Rivers and two of his near kinsmen, the most dreaded persons +of our expected invaders; but they immediately informed us they came on a +mission of peace, and, for that reason, had come to us unattended and +unarmed. + +We were most happy to hear this, and to find hostilities were again +likely to be deferred. Though we well knew the character of these men, +and that they were capable of the most treacherous acts, and the deepest +dissimulation, yet, their thus throwing themselves into our power, with +the olive branch in their hands, was irresistible; and we received them +with all the pomp we were capable of. We ordered a pig to be killed for +the feast, and requested them to remain for that night. In order to do +honour to our noble guests, and credit to our friend and ally King +George, we produced all the luxuries we had; and, in addition to the +pork, piles of pancakes and molasses were devoured: after this we gave +them tea, of which they are very fond; and, over our pipes, in the +evening, we informed them of the preparations the coalesced chiefs had +made for their reception, had their intentions been hostile. + +The next morning they embarked for the camp at Kawakawa, where, I +understood, they had considerable difficulty in arranging the "treaty of +peace": George having been so often alarmed, now that such great +preparations had been effected (as he well know the treacherous character +of his foe), he was unwilling to give up the hopes of conquest; however, +by the advice of the chiefs, it was finally settled amicably. George and +his friends accordingly returned to Kororarika, leaving a strong party at +the pa to finish the fortifications; and, though peace was made, our +party still kept themselves in a posture of defence. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLI. + +RETURN OF THE BRIG.--AN EXCITING INCIDENT. + + +We had been expecting with great anxiety the return of our brig; and, +soon after the termination of this affair, we had the pleasure of seeing +her enter the bay, after her cruise from Tongataboo and Tucopea. We found +that, on leaving the Bay of Islands, she had touched at the Thames, or +(as the natives call it) Hauraki, in order to land two chiefs, whom +Captain Dillon had taken thence two years before, and, in the confusion +occasioned by the disembarking, the visiting and congratulations of +friends (the vessel being under weigh), one chief was left on board, who +had not been discovered till all the canoes were out of sight, and there +remained no other alternative for him than to proceed on the whole +voyage. + +This was of no importance as it respected Tongataboo or Tucopea; but, on +his return to Kororarika, it was not only placing him, but all of us, in +a dreadful dilemma! His tribe being at deadly enmity with that of George, +the moment he was seen on deck (which was as soon as the vessel arrived), +George and all the men in the various canoes appeared to grow outrageous: +nothing would convince them but that we were in league with their +enemies, and had brought this spy into their territories from interested +motives; and they seemed resolved upon boarding the brig and executing +vengeance upon the unfortunate victim. To all our remonstrances George +replied, "Any other man than this I would have pardoned; but it was only +last year he killed, and helped to eat, my own uncle, whose death still +remains unrevenged: I cannot allow him to leave my country alive; if I +did, I should be despised for ever." + +I was greatly grieved at the circumstance; but, as I was somewhat of a +favourite with George, I succeeded in convincing him that it arose purely +from accident, and no intention of giving him offence; and he consented +to leave him on board, but cautioned us not to allow him to land. "If I +see him on shore he dies," he repeated several times. It would have been +well for us had we attended to this warning: we did not; and we +accordingly infringed on the customs of his country; thus placing +ourselves in a most perilous situation with the natives, and plainly +showing that the imprudence of our countrymen is invariably the cause of +quarrels and misunderstandings with these islanders. + +Some days having passed since this altercation with George, we thought no +more about it. The brig, from various causes, was certain to remain some +time in this harbour; and, as our New Zealand guest expressed a great +desire to go on shore one day, we consented to his accompanying us. We +had scarcely entered our house, when we had reason to repent the +imprudent step we had taken: all the natives were in commotion; +messengers were sent off to George to acquaint him with the circumstance, +and soon after we saw him, attended by all his relations, accoutred for +war; that is, quite naked, their skins oiled and painted, and armed with +muskets. Fury was in their looks and gestures as they hastened towards +our residence. We had scarcely time to shut and fasten our door, when +they made a rush to force it; and we had a severe struggle to keep them +out. At one period their rage became so ungovernable that we expected +every instant they would fire on us for preventing their entrance. The +man who was the cause of all this violence crept into our bedroom, and +kept out of sight; but he did not, at any period of the disturbance, +exhibit the least sign of fear, so accustomed are they from childhood to +these deadly frays. + +When the natives found we would not give up the man, but that they must +murder us before they could accomplish their revenge, the disappointment +rendered them nearly frantic. Our situation was most critical and +appalling; and nothing can be a more convincing proof of the influence +the Europeans have obtained over them, than that, at such a moment, they +should have refrained from setting fire to or pulling down the house, and +sacrificing every one of us. George again remonstrated with us, assuring +us it was his sacred duty to destroy this man, now he was in his +territory; a duty which, he said, he owed to the memory of his murdered +relations, and which must be performed, even though he should sacrifice +his "good English friends." He cautioned us not to stand between him and +his enemy, who must die before the sun set, pointing, at the same time, +to that luminary, and ordering his slaves to kindle a large fire to roast +him on. Finally, he and his friends planted themselves all round the +house to prevent the escape of their victim. Thus were we environed with +fifty or sixty well armed and exasperated savages. + +Our imprudence had given us no other alternative than either to give up +the man, who had put himself under our protection, or still to defend him +at the risk of our own lives: we instantly adopted the latter course. +Fortunately for us, a whaler was lying in the harbour, and a party of her +men were then on shore in the neighbourhood procuring water. We had sent +to them to explain the nature of our situation, and we saw them coming to +our assistance, though the numbers of natives at this time assembled +totally precluded all chance of our getting off by force; and a variety +of schemes were suggested as to how we should save the man's life, and +get clear of this difficulty, without sacrificing the good opinion we +were held in by the natives. + +We were well aware of the great importance it was to George to continue +on friendly terms with the English vessels touching here, as they not +only afforded him various sources of considerable profit, but the +intercourse gave him great importance in the eyes of his countrymen; and +we determined to make this circumstance a means of saving the man's life, +as we suspected that a threat of removing the seat of trade would soon +make him compromise his revenge for his interest. + +We therefore sent him a formal message, that, if he was resolved to kill +his enemy in our house, we had determined not to prevent him, but that we +would not stay to witness such a cruelty; and that we should immediately +remove every thing we possessed on board ship, leave the Bay of Islands, +and seek the protection and shelter of some other chief; and, if he +compelled us to do so, no other British ship would ever be seen at +Kororarika. + +We accordingly ordered the ship's boats ashore, and our things were +quickly conveyed into them. I trembled when I looked on the natives, and +saw the rage depicted on their countenances; and I, trusting in +Providence to avert from me the dreadful death with which I saw myself +threatened, prepared myself for some fatal catastrophe. Tumultuous +discussions ensued, and it at length became difficult for the elders to +restrain the impetuosity of the younger chiefs. Fortunately for us, their +vehement speeches soon produced a violent feud amongst themselves. Mutual +upbraidings took place: each accused the other of being the cause of +quarrel, and the consequent loss of the white men. This was precisely the +state of things we wished for; and, while we were waiting the return of +the last boat, a messenger came from the elder chiefs, to propose an +amicable adjustment of the affair. The chiefs promised that, if we would +reland our goods and remain with them, the man we protected should go +without molestation on board the brig; but, if we persevered in leaving +them, the man should be killed before our eyes. This was what we +expected; and though I really now wished to leave them, being quite tired +of these perpetual broils, we assented, in order that the man's life +might be spared When they found we agreed to their proposal, they +retreated out of sight, thereby carefully avoiding polluting their eyes +by looking upon their enemy. + +No sooner had they disappeared than I visited the poor fellow who had +been the cause of all this disturbance: he seemed half dead with anxiety; +but I soon revived him with the information that all was settled +amicably; and we lost no time in getting him off, which we safely +accomplished, though, as the boat which conveyed him left the shore, a +bullet whizzed close by me, aimed, no doubt, by some young fiery chief, +who had concealed himself in the bushes for that purpose. + +During this transaction I witnessed the natural kindness of heart and +disinterested tenderness of the female sex: no matter how distressing the +circumstance or appalling the danger, they are, in all countries, the +last to forsake man. While the enraged chiefs were yelling outside our +house, and all our exertions could scarcely prevent them from making a +forcible entry, all the women were sitting with, and trying to comfort +the unhappy cause of this calamity. They had cooked for him a delicate +dinner, brought him fruit, and were using every means by which they could +keep up his spirits and buoy up his hopes, confidently assuring him the +white men would not yield him up to his ferocious foes. Notwithstanding +all their exertions, he was miserable, till informed by me of his safety; +and I received the warmest thanks, and even blessings, from his "fair" +friends, as if I had conferred upon each a personal favour. + +The man being now in safety, we determined to demand satisfaction for the +affront which had been put upon us, and we sent George word we could not +again receive him into our house unless he made an ample apology for his +behaviour, painting in strong colours how deeply our feelings had been +wounded, and how much this indignity had lowered us in the esteem of all +our acquaintances. + +After some consultation among their leading men upon the subject of our +message, King George presented himself at the door of our hut, and, in +the most humble manner, surrendered his musket; and shortly after his +brother Kiney Kiney did the same. Thus we gained our point, and received +both payment and apologies for their violent behaviour. Friendship being +thus restored, we soon gave them back their muskets, to their infinite +surprise and satisfaction. + +On reflection, I felt quite convinced that the natives liked us the +better for what we had done: it afforded them also a lesson of humanity, +for they all well knew we had no other object in view when we stood +forward to defend the poor fellow, who had relied upon our promise of +protecting him. Several chiefs told us that they greatly admired our +principles, and should always feel themselves quite safe with men like +us, who would risk their own lives rather than break their word, or +desert a friend in the hour of danger. + +At the close of this eventful day we received another token of peace, +which was in its manner simple and affecting, and not such as could have +been expected from a nation of savages. A procession of young girls +approached our door, each bearing a basket: some were filled with nicely +cooked potatoes, others with various fruits and flowers, which they set +down before us, chanting, in a low voice, a song in praise of our recent +exploit; a man bearing a very large fish closed the procession; he +repeated the song also. We were informed that these presents had been +sent by King George as a ratification of friendship, for the New +Zealanders never think a reconciliation perfected till you have again +eaten and drank with them. + +Two important conclusions may be drawn from the termination of this +affair: first, that if a spirited interference takes place on the part of +the Europeans, murder may be at times prevented, as we actually rescued +a mortal foe from the vengeance of an exasperated enemy; and, secondly, +their efforts to restore amity proves their extreme desire to have white +people settle amongst them. + +About a week after this event we witnessed a most extraordinary ceremony, +which partook more of the ludicrous than the horrible, though I have no +doubt it was regarded by the natives as a most solemn affair. For some +days we had been honoured by the presence of a great priest, or one of +their chief tabooers; he came for the purpose of discussing with the +chiefs the affairs of the nation, particularly the approaching war with +the tribe of the Thames; and the day set apart for the discussion of the +principal points was ushered in by a rich feast, not of pork nor fish, +nor even the kumara, but of two old, sturdy, large dogs! + +I was much surprised on rising one morning to see Kiney Kiney, with +several chiefs of the highest rank, stripped, and performing the offices +of the meanest slave (the washing the feet of the pilgrims by cardinals +and persons of rank in Rome came instantly to my remembrance). These +chiefs were making a fire and cooking. I was still more astonished, on +approaching them, to find the nature of the food they were singeing and +scraping. This bow-wow meat they were preparing after the fashion of +pork: pigs being the only quadruped they have ever seen cooked, they of +course are not acquainted with any other way of dressing the animal +creation, and a sad bungling job they made of it; for the dogs were old +and tough, and the hair adhered most pertinaciously to the skin, and in +many places would not come off. + +There were only five persons allowed to partake of this delicious meal, +which was, as well as the five partakers, strictly taboo'd for the whole +of that day: and we strongly recommended them to hold a similar feast +every day, until they had cleared the country of these canine nuisances, +the dogs being the greatest pests they have. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLII. + +WAR-LIKE EXPEDITION TO THE THAMES. + + +One morning I was roused out of a sound sleep by continued discharges of +musketry from a number of war canoes. I jumped up instantly in alarm; but +I soon discovered them to be Atoi and his party, who had been absent +about two months on a war-like expedition to the Thames, and they were now +returning successful. + +I had witnessed the departure of this expedition, and considered it in +the light of a reconnoitring party. I could not make out what the real +object was they had been in search of; but, wherever they had been, they +had been victorious, for they now returned with quantities of plunder, +human heads, human flesh, and many prisoners! After the dance and sham +fight had been duly gone through, they proceeded to land their cargo of +spoil. First came a group of miserable creatures, women and children, +torn by violence from their native homes, henceforth to be the slaves of +their conquerors; some were miserably wounded and lacerated, others +looked half-starved, but all seemed wretched and dejected. + +The women of Kororarika, with their usual humanity, instantly surrounded +them, and endeavoured to console them, and then shed abundance of tears +over them. I enquired of one of the warriors what they had done with the +male prisoners: he coolly replied, they had all been eaten, except some +"titbits," which had been packed up in the baskets and brought on shore, +in order to regale particular friends and favourites! + +They had also brought with them several heads, which they have the art of +preparing in their native ovens, so as not to disfigure the countenance +nor injure the figure tatoo'd upon them. One of these, the skull of a +distinguished chief, seemed to afford them amazing delight. Most of our +people had known him well, and several of his near relations were +present: but cruel war seemed to have eradicated every feeling of +humanity; for all appeared to contemplate this ghastly object with great +satisfaction. These heads were decorated profusely with yellow and red +ribbons, and with white feathers: they were then stuck upon short poles, +and placed, with great ceremony, in front of the old Queen Turero's +house; who, sitting at the door, received this token of respect with +approval and condescension. + +The group altogether formed an interesting picture of savage manners, in +which ferocity was strongly blended with humanity, for their respect and +devotion to the old sybil was manifested as feelingly as their hatred +towards those whom they call their enemies: in fact, the young warrior +chiefs presenting to her (as was the case with several) their first +spoils of conquest, reminded me of young lions bringing part of the +spoils of the chase to their aged dam. + +In this affray only a few of Atoi's party had been wounded, and +twenty-five of the enemy had been killed. It was a fortunate circumstance +for the wretched prisoners that none of the conquering party had been +killed; for, if that had been the case, there would have been a dreadful +slaughter of the captives on their arrival at the village, an act of +cruelty never dispensed with. This sight I dreaded I should encounter +when I went to witness the disembarkation; but, hoping that my presence +might be some restraint upon their barbarities, I awaited the result with +as much firmness as I was master of. + +[Illustration: Old Pa and Whalers at Bay of Islands.] + + + + + +CHAPTER XLIII. + +VISITS OF WHALERS. + + +Two South Sea whalers were at this time lying in the bay: the Anne, from +London, a full ship; and the Lynx, from Sydney. Since I have been living +here, five vessels of this description have visited us; and many others +would have touched here but for the want of proper regulations, and a +dread of the dispositions of the natives. There being here no +representatives of the British Government, the crews of whalers are often +involved in disputes with the natives. This want of Government support +has also frightened other vessels away; their commanders preferring going +on to Port Jackson, where they half ruin themselves by the unavoidable +expenses they incur. Even when their vessels have anchored here, the +thoughtlessness and eccentricity of this class of men, when they are +under no restraint or control, has sometimes not only led to disputes +with the natives, but with each other, which eventually have proved +equally detrimental. In short, New Zealand is a place of such vast +importance to so many lucrative branches of British trade, that it must +be well worthy the speedy attention of our Government at home. + +We spoke frequently to our friend George, as well as to several other of +their powerful chiefs, respecting the erection of a small fort with a +British garrison, and of permanently hoisting the English flag. They +always expressed the utmost delight at the idea; and, from all I have +seen of them, I feel convinced it would prove a most politic measure. +George (who had visited Port Jackson) said: "This country is finer than +Port Jackson; yet the English go and settle there. Our people are much +better than the black natives of New South Wales, and yet you English +live amongst them in preference to us." + +The ship Anne, Captain Gray, was out three years, and during that period +she never entered a civilised port. She had touched twice at this bay, +and had cruised four months on the coast of Japan, off Timor, through the +Sandwich and Friendly Islands, and passed several times over the Pacific +Ocean, in order to obtain a cargo of sperm oil, which she at length +accomplished; and was at this time here to refit for her voyage home to +England round Cape Horn, having picked up most of her cargo off this +port. + +For twelve years past, notwithstanding all the disadvantages, this has +been the favourite resort for ships in the above-mentioned trade. Here, +surrounded with savages and cannibals, they heave down their vessels, +land the cargoes and stores, and carry on work, both on board and on +shore, in tolerable security. The safety of the harbour, the facility of +wooding and watering, the supplies of pigs and potatoes, tempt them to +run the risk of placing themselves in the power of capricious and +barbarous people. + +It has been imagined that the residence of missionaries would have the +effect of civilising the natives, and adding to the safety of ships +touching here; but experience fully proves the fallacy of such an +expectation. These people, abstracted by their own gloomy reflections, +look with contempt on all who are in the pursuit of "worldly wealth"; and +regard the arrival of a whaler as an enemy coming to interfere with the +spiritual interests of "their flock," as they term the inhabitants, +though I never yet saw one proselyte of their converting. + +They never visit a whaler except on a Sunday, and then it is to beg for +the benefit of their society. It cannot, therefore, be expected that much +sympathy can exist between parties, where the cold formality of one +excites the contempt and disgust of the other. + +The ship Anne, of which I have formerly spoken, arrived here lately from +Wahoo, one of the Sandwich Islands, which possesses the advantage of a +British consul. The pacific disposition and orderly government of the +natives do not require a British garrison, or any war-like force; and of +the excellent effects produced by this representation of our Government +Captain Gray speaks with admiration and enthusiasm. The harbours were +crowded with shipping; houses, nay, even streets, were beginning to +appear; the savage character of the people was gradually subsiding into +industrious and peaceful occupations; and comfort and prosperity were +spreading their benign influence over the whole island: yet Wahoo is not +nearly so well situated as a rendezvous for South Sea whalers as New +Zealand; at least so I have been informed by all the captains of those +ships who have conversed with me on the subject. + +It is rather a remarkable and novel circumstance that the natives, who +have been now for fourteen or fifteen years in close intercourse and +carrying on traffic with Europeans, should not, in the course of that +period, understand the nature and value of money; a laughable instance of +which occurred to us a few days since. A native came to our house with a +serious countenance and business-like manner, and said he wished to +purchase a musket: we asked to see what he had brought in exchange for +one, when, with great ceremony, he produced a copper penny piece in the +way of payment. The poor fellow had, doubtless, seen some one pass a +doubloon, and had mistaken his penny for one; as a doubloon is about the +price given for a musket in our regulated list of charges. We, of course, +refrained from laughter; but he was quite astonished and mortified when +he was made to understand we could not trade with him. He took a stroll +round the beach, offering his penny, by way of barter, to every white man +he met, but everywhere with equally bad success. + + + + +CHAPTER XLIV. + +VISIT OF TWO SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS. + + +When our brig left Tucopea she brought away two natives of that island, +who had most earnestly entreated the captain to take them off, and leave +them upon any other land he pleased, as, according to their statement, +Tucopea was so overstocked with inhabitants that it was scarcely possible +to find subsistence; and the scarcity of food had become so general, that +parents destroyed their children rather than witness their sufferings +from famine. Captain Kent, therefore, from motives of compassion, +received them on board his ship; and, not having touched at any inhabited +spot, brought them with him here. Their extraordinary appearance excited +a great deal of surprise, both among Europeans and New Zealanders. They +appeared simple, timid creatures, though stout and comely, but their hair +was unlike anything I had before beheld, as in length it reached below +the waist, and was so abundantly thick as completely to conceal their +faces. By some curious chemical process which the natives of Tucopea have +discovered, they render their hair a bright sulphur colour; and, as this +mass of yellow hangs over their faces and shoulders, they bear the most +striking resemblance to the lion monkeys of the Brazils. + +These poor creatures, upon landing, shook with fear, and trembled greatly +when they beheld the New Zealanders, whose character for cannibalism had +reached even their remote island: when our friend George went up to them, +and lifted up (in order to examine closely) the curious mass of hair in +which they were enveloped, they burst into a passionate fit of tears, and +ran up to us for protection. The New Zealanders, with characteristic +cunning, perceiving the horror they had created, tormented them still +more cruelly, by making grotesque signs, as if they were about to +commence devouring them; and, at the same time (like most savages), +evincing the most sovereign contempt for them, from their apparent +pusillanimity. + +After they had been some days on shore, we had a very diverting scene +with them, which exhibited strongly the great difference there is in the +nature of the two classes of savages we now had such opportunities of +observing. I had brought my violin from Sydney, on which I used to play +occasionally. The New Zealanders generally expressed the greatest dislike +to it; and my companions used to rally me much on the subject, saying it +was not that the savages did not like music, but it was my discordant +playing that frightened them away, which might be true. It was, however, +a useful discovery for us all, as I often took that method of civilly +driving them out of our house when we grew tired of their company. But +when I began to play before the Tucopeans, the effect it had instantly +upon them was ludicrous in the extreme. They sprang up, and began dancing +most furiously; at the same time, so waving their heads about as to keep +their long hair extended at its fullest length: as I played faster, they +quickened their pace. A lively Scotch reel seemed to render them nearly +frantic; and when I ceased playing, they threw themselves down on the +floor quite exhausted, and unable to articulate a word. I have observed +(generally speaking) that savages are not much affected by music; but +these two Tucopeans were excited to a most extraordinary degree. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLV. + +THE DEATH OF HONGI. + + +We at length received authentic intelligence of the death of the +celebrated Hongi. Finding his dissolution fast approaching, he convened a +meeting of all the neighbouring chiefs; and as many as could reach the +spot in time attended. The wounded warrior expired, surrounded by the men +he had so frequently led to battle and conquest. After the numerous and +desperate risks he had run, the many encounters he had sustained with +various enemies, it appeared extraordinary to us Europeans that he should +die quietly in his hut. It is the custom to keep a guarded and mysterious +silence relating to the subjects which are spoken of by a dying chief. I +questioned several who had attended Hongi: all spoke with the greatest +solemnity of his last moments. One sentence (uttered by him) was all I +could obtain after much manoeuvring, and that was spoken but a few +minutes before he breathed his last, which was, that "Shulitea (viz., our +friend George) would not live one week longer than himself"; but, as our +patron was in perfect health at the time, and all seemed peaceful around +him, I only laughed at the improbability of the prophecy being fulfilled. + +The natives of New Zealand pay the greatest respect to courage and +war-like talents: these were the only distinguishing characteristics of +Hongi; yet, by possessing these, he was more feared, and had a greater +number of followers, than any other chief in the island. His hereditary +possessions were but small, and his name was little known; yet his +undaunted courage, his skill, and success in many sanguinary battles, +made him, at length, a most powerful chief, and obtained for him that +which is considered wealth in this country, namely, an immense number of +slaves. In his last moments he was attended by more men of rank than had +ever before assembled to witness the dissolution of a warrior, and this +is considered the greatest proof of attention and respect one chieftain +can show towards another. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLVI. + +A TRIBAL CONFLICT. + + +Our brig now sailed for Hokianga to take in a cargo of planks; and my +friend, Mr. Shand, being tired of wandering, accompanied her; but I, +being still anxious to procure more sketches of this interesting country, +determined to remain as long as possible, and to take one more walk +across the island, and join the brig by the time she was loaded. I was +preparing to start on my last pedestrian tour, when a chain of events +occurred which threw all the tribes into confusion. Bloodshed and +devastation stared me in the face from all quarters; and from the state +of security I had imagined myself to be in, I was roused to behold myself +beset with difficulties; to crown which, our brig, which would have been +a place of safety and refuge, was now on the opposite side of the island. + +Arising from a trifling circumstance, which was partly caused by us, +though innocently, Pomare's only son had lost his life; and, as is usual +among savage tribes, the severest retaliation soon took place. + +By relating the particulars, the reader will perceive how easily the +war-cry is raised among these turbulent savages. + +Pomare's only surviving son. Tiki, was a very finely-formed, handsome +young man, of twenty years of age, and he had made an arrangement with a +captain of a ship here to supply him with a certain number of hogs. +Accordingly, accompanied by a party of his friends, he started into the +interior for the purpose of collecting them. In making his selection, he +not only proceeded to drive off some of his own, but actually laid claim +to, and began marching away with, some belonging to his neighbours. The +right owners remonstrated with him in vain. He, being an insolent, +over-bearing young fellow, persisted in his unjust claims, and set them +all at defiance. They were compelled to yield up their property, as his +tribe was a most powerful one; and Tiki was driving away the stolen hogs +in triumph, when a sudden stop was put to his predatory career. Finding +words were of no avail to induce the young man to restore the swine, one +of the injured party had recourse to a musket. A bullet, aimed from +behind a tree, killed Tiki on the spot; but from whose hand it came could +only be conjectured. The greatest confusion instantly took place. His +companions, being well armed, the war-cry was immediately raised; and the +fray becoming general, seven more lives were lost. + +When the account of this melancholy affair reached our beach, everyone +flew to arms, even all the women, for the young man was a general +favourite. The war-cry spread in every direction. "Here," they exclaimed, +"is the last of the Pomare family killed treacherously, a warrior related +to and connected with every chief of consequence in the country, and a +nephew of the great Shulitea." The cry for blood and revenge was +universal. I must confess that, added to the danger it placed me in, I +was much shocked when I heard of the fate of poor Tiki, for he was one of +our particular friends, and had passed many an evening in our hut. I had +taken leave of him only the day before, when he had set out, full of +health and spirits, on this hog expedition, which had terminated thus +fatally. + +The death of this young man excited the highest indignation in the minds +of his countrymen, as well as in those of his numerous intimate friends +and relations; for a report was industriously circulated that he had +fallen by the hands of a slave. This was considered by his tribe as a +degradation infinitely worse than the murder itself. The offended chiefs +assembled on our beach, with all their followers, armed: and none +appeared more indignant at the transaction than our friend George, who, +with his brother Kiney Kiney, placed themselves at the head of the party, +to revenge the insult which had been offered them. + +The night before they started on this expedition, George spent the +evening with us. He was in particularly low spirits, and said he did not +at all like the business he was going upon: but, as he was the nearest +relation of the deceased, and the eldest of the tribe, he went in hopes +of being able to prevent a great effusion of blood, and also to restrain +the impetuosity of the young men. Little did we then think he would be +the first victim; although his unusual depression of mind brought to my +remembrance the prophecy of Hongi, and, spite of my endeavours to banish +my forebodings, I felt convinced that the prediction would in all +probability be fulfilled. + +Three days had elapsed from the time the avenging party had gone on their +mission, when, at midnight, a messenger, faint and nearly exhausted, +arrived on our beach with the following dreadful intelligence; and that +night no other sounds were heard than those of agony and woe, the yelling +of women, and the shrieks of slaves. + +The substance of the man's information was, that George and the offending +party had met; but, as several days had passed since the murder of their +friend, their feelings were in some degree appeased, and they had +contented themselves with a general plunder of whatever property their +enemies possessed. They had spared their lives, and the outrage was +considered as atoned for. The chiefs were on their return home, laden +with spoil, when, like other coalesced armies, disagreements began to +take place among themselves, and discord long smothered, broke out in +every quarter of the camp. + +George, the principal person of their party, was the one marked to be +dissatisfied with. All were jealous of him, in consequence of his +possessions at Kororarika giving him such a decided advantage over every +other tribe, by his trade and intercourse with Europeans. It is probable, +also, that as the other tribes went forth with an intention to fight, +they were resolved not to be disappointed, and therefore determined to +create a feud among themselves, rather than return home devoid of the +pleasures or the trophies of a combat. + +Some irritating language had been uttered by both sides, when an accident +of a fatal nature took place, which produced an instantaneous and general +appeal to arms. At the close of the day a halt was made, as usual, and +each party began erecting their temporary huts to pass the night in. One +of George's wives, assisted by a little boy, his nephew, was busily +engaged in constructing one; arms and baggage of every description being +strewed about in all directions. At this period a lad took up one of +George's muskets, and began to play with it; but not understanding the +management of it, he, by his injudicious handling, accidentally +discharged the piece, and killed both the wife and nephew, the ball +passing through both their bodies. + +The sensation produced by this unfortunate accident may readily be +conceived. As the woman who was killed was related to the tribe who had +been disputing with George all day, her death furnished an ostensible +motive for open war; and before the real cause of the accident could be +explained, another shot was fired, which wounded a chief of the name of +Moo-de-wy in the thigh. This proved the signal for a general fight: each +party ran to their arms, ranged themselves under their different leaders, +and a general discharge of muskets immediately took place. + +Almost at the beginning of the combat George received a shot, which broke +both his legs: his brother and friends endeavoured to support him in +their arms. It being then nearly dark, added much to the confusion, as it +was difficult to distinguish friend from foe; indeed, so sudden had been +the onset, that many could scarcely have been aware of the cause of the +contest. But our unhappy friend, who seemed particularly marked out in +this unfortunate affray, soon after received another bullet, which struck +him on the throat, and terminated his existence; thus dying before a week +had passed since the death of his rival Hongi. I heard from one of his +friends who supported him in his last moments, that he died like a hero: +finding both his legs were broken, and that consequently he was totally +unable to move, he begged those friends who were about him to leave him +to his fate, and either again enter the fight, or make their escape +while they yet had time. He then gave his musket to one, took off his +mantle to present to another, and while thus in the act of exhorting his +friends and distributing amongst them his tokens of regard, he received +his death-wound, and expired without a groan. When George fell, a general +flight took place; and though the engagement had lasted but a short time, +great numbers had fallen on both sides. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLVII. + +THE DEATH OF KING GEORGE AND ITS CONSEQUENCES. + + +This news caused mourning and lamentation along our beach, and filled all +the Europeans with dismay. We could not calculate the extent of the +injury we might receive, but felt certain we should be considerable +sufferers in some way or other. The light of day seemed to add to, rather +than to diminish, the moans of George's faithful subjects. The violent +sobbings from every dwelling were most dismal. Groups were scattered +about, forming small crying parties, and cutting their skins deeply with +knives and pieces of broken glass; in short, nothing was heard but +yelling and groaning, and nothing was seen but streams of blood! + +But however shocked I might feel by the train of accidents and deaths +which had made such cruel havoc amongst my friends, and notwithstanding +my sincere grief and regret for the fate of poor George, who was a most +humane and intelligent chief, and particularly kind to all the English; +the predicament in which I was now placed demanded all my energies, for I +felt that I stood in a situation of great danger. + +I have before noticed their barbarous custom, on the death of a chief, of +plundering his family and friends. As we had always been considered as a +part of George's family, living under his protection, adopted by him, +and admitted into his tribe, I entertained great suspicions that we also +should be sufferers by the general plunder about to take place: besides, +I was so circumstanced as to be obliged to cross the country with all my +goods, and my route lay through the territories of all those chiefs who +had been fighting against George; and I was at no loss to guess in what +light they would regard me. Depending, too securely, on the general +tranquility, I had not sent my luggage by sea, as I might have done, and +which would have saved me great anxiety, as I should have ventured alone +without fear, but could not manage to carry what I possessed; and to +engage any to convey them was an impossibility, for the moment I made the +proposition to any (even the meanest of the slaves) to accompany me, they +ran off into the bush, nor could any entreaty, presents, or threats +induce them to venture with me; so, for security, I removed all the +property I had, and went with it on board the Marianne, whaler. + +For three days after the death of George, all gave themselves up to +grief; no work was done, and not an individual was to be seen but in an +agony of tears. I began to feel strangely affected with melancholy +myself, when, on the fourth morning, a scene of bustle took place, and +low spirits were banished by tumult, noise, and confusion. + +At six o'clock on that morning we discovered upwards of twenty sail of +war canoes, crowded with armed warriors, coming into the bay. What their +intentions were we could not imagine; but for fear of the worst, the +ships in the harbour shotted their guns, and when the canoes were abreast +of us, we fired a blank one over their heads. On this they all stopped, +and we saw some stir amongst them: at length a very small canoe left the +main body, and pulled directly towards us; it contained the chief persons +of the expedition: they came on board, and assured us they meant no harm +to any persons; they were merely some of the late George's friends, who +were going to pay a visit of condolence to his relations; and, after +making a most hearty breakfast with us, they went on shore, and we +accompanied them. + +Whether the account they gave of themselves was correct, or the reverse, +we knew not at the time; but we felt assured their intentions were not +hostile towards us Europeans, and their quarrels with each other we were +determined not to interfere in. We soon discovered their falsehood, for +George's eldest daughter informed me that amongst the chiefs who landed +with us were several of the most inveterate foes of her father, and that +they were only restrained from committing the most dreadful outrages, and +carrying off all her relations as slaves, by witnessing the many friends +of George by whom they were surrounded. The day was spent in savage +dancing, yelling, making speeches, and debating as to who the proper +person was to succeed George in his dignities: several times I thought +the affair would end in blows. George's relation, Rivers, made great +exertions "to keep the peace," and finally, by force of argument, +succeeded. It was at length unanimously agreed that Kiney Kiney was to +succeed his brother, and that Rivers should take the command until the +time of Kiney Kiney's mourning for the loss of George should be +completed. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLVIII. + +DEPARTURE FROM BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +After these important matters were amicably disposed of, I made a sign to +Rivers, and, separating him from the crowd, I explained to him the nature +of my situation, and asked his assistance in getting me safely over to +Hokianga. He replied, there would certainly be great danger in attempting +it; but I soon discovered that he magnified the difficulties in order to +increase his demand for payment, for even the greatest chiefs have here +their price. He said (and I had every reason to think he was correct) +that I ran no risk of being molested by any chiefs, like himself, who +would always protect rather than molest every European; but that the +country being in such a state of commotion, in consequence of the late +events, it was full of runaway slaves, who always took advantage of such +times to make their escape; and if I chanced to fall in with any of them, +I should be exposed to great peril: "However (he added), keep up your +spirits; I have two confidential slaves, who shall conduct you over, and +carry your luggage, if you will make me a present of a stocking full of +powder, a bag of small shot, and a powder-horn." He also proposed, as he +himself was going to the Kirikiri, and thence to a village in the +interior, to meet a large assemblage of chiefs, in order to talk over the +late tragical events, that I should journey the first part of my way +with him, in his own canoe. + +Accordingly, after having made preparations for my departure, I took +leave of all my friends at the Bay of Islands, both civilised and savage. +I must say I felt considerable regret when I found myself really going to +take final leave of several native families, with whom I had been on +terms of intimacy since my residence here, from whom I had received many +proofs of personal regard, and whom, I felt convinced, I should never +meet or hear of more; none I regretted parting with more than the family +of poor Shulitea; the mere sight of me seemed to rekindle all their grief +for the loss of their kinsman, and to remind them more forcibly than ever +of his tragical fate. His mother, old Turero, in point of grief, had +rivalled Niobe; she had never ceased weeping and lamenting from the time +she heard of her son's death, and had twice attempted to strangle +herself. But even in the midst of her passionate sorrow, I could scarcely +refrain from laughing, while observing her care and anxiety to get all +she could from me. After deploring the sad fate of her dear son, "You +know," she continued, "you promised him that you would send him a +handsome new musket from Sydney; and now, poor fellow, he is dead; and +cannot shoot with it; but then you must remember that his brother Kiney +Kiney is still alive, and he can shoot with it; and poor George would +wish that his brother should have his new musket." This speech I felt +quite irresistible; therefore, in order to comfort the old queen, I +promised that I would send the musket for her second son; which +declaration seemed to afford her great consolation, and considerably +abated the violence of her grief. + +Just at the dawn of morning we started from the bay in Rivers' canoe, +accompanied by his wife, one child, and the two stout slaves he had +mentioned to me. My luggage, which consisted of one leathern portmanteau +and my bed, was placed in the centre. I had also provided myself with a +small basket of cooked meat, with bread, and a small bottle of brandy, +which was given me by the captain of one of the whalers. The day broke +around us with more than usual brightness; the dewy mists of night were +just rising from the waters, and the huge and abrupt forms of the +mountains were beginning to develop themselves; flights of wild ducks and +stray birds skimmed rapidly by us. The thoughts that crowded my mind were +strange and varied, while contemplating scenes of such tranquil beauty as +were now presented, glowing with the tints of the rising sun. I +contrasted these with the difficulties and dangers I might have to +encounter from hordes of ferocious savages, who, now flushed with +conquest, were plotting murder and destruction against each other: even a +glance at my companions banished all peaceful illusions. While the wife, +son, and slaves were using the paddles with the greatest exertions, +Rivers was carefully examining his weapons. The beauty of the morning and +the romantic scenery was unnoticed: his thoughts were directed solely to +contemplating the depth and the width of my stocking of powder, which +seemed to afford him infinite satisfaction. He had with him a beautiful +double-barrelled gun, and a very good Tower musket; and seeing so many +wild ducks fly past, he drew the bullet out of one of the barrels of the +former, and, with some of my stock of small shot, fired occasionally +amongst them. + +At about eight o'clock a light sea breeze sprang up: they then set their +sail, and all went to sleep, excepting one slave, who was employed to +steer the canoe; so that I had ample time to ruminate upon my solitary +and perilous situation. The tide failed us at twelve o'clock, and we then +went on shore, kindled a fire, and soon collected such a supply of +shell-fish as furnished us a splendid repast. Here we remained till the +flood-tide set in strong, when, again hoisting our sail, we arrived at +the Kirikiri about sunset. + +I here found the missionaries in the greatest consternation and dismay, +and learned that it was one of the chiefs of Hokianga who had shot +George, and they dreaded lest the result of that deed should be that the +whole of the savage tribes on that part of the island would be opposed to +each other; that combats would ensue; and which side soever might be +victorious, it would prove equally injurious to them, as they had +settlements on both sides of the island. But their greatest alarm was +occasioned by their possessions at Hokianga, as the most violent +depredations were there being committed; and as this was the very point +of my destination, the news was not very consolatory to me. "So anxious," +said one of "the brethren" to me, "were we to inform our Christian +brethren of our danger, that we actually gave a _warm piece_ to a native +to carry a letter over to you, although that is strictly contrary to our +orders." I expressed a desire to know what he meant by a _warm piece_; he +kicked his foot against the stock of a gun I had at the time in my hand; +and, looking at me with an expression of the greatest contempt, said, "It +is what _you worldly_ folks call a musket!" + +They were making considerable preparations to repair to the great meeting +of the chiefs, to which Rivers was journeying. This was a wise and +politic measure for them to pursue; and they were highly delighted to +have such an addition to their party as this well-known chief; and though +they would not acknowledge it, their satisfaction was very visible. I +earnestly requested them to inform me candidly, from all they had heard, +whether they thought I might, with safety, venture across the country; +but I could get nothing from them but vague and mysterious answers: one +thing, however, they made me very clearly understand; which was, that +they neither cared for me nor for my drawings; that their own safety +engrossed all their thoughts; and that a worldly-minded, misguided +creature like me was but as dust in the balance, compared to such godly +people as themselves, who were now placed in jeopardy. They, without +scruple, applied quotations from the Scriptures to themselves, such as, +"Why do the heathen so furiously rage," etc., etc. + +My necessities compelled me to request a favour from them, which was, +that they would allow one of their boys, who could speak English, to +accompany me, as our loads were heavy; and his being known to belong to +their establishment I thought might be some protection; but the short +answer of the monosyllable "_No_" soon made me repent having asked it. I +spread my bed in one of their empty rooms; and started at daybreak next +morning, with my two native slaves. I could not banish from my +remembrance the inhospitable conduct of these missionaries; they never +even inquired whether I had any provision for a journey they themselves +would not have dared to undertake, which was evident by their giving a +native a _warm piece_ for merely taking a letter for them. As my shoes +were nearly worn out, and I had a long distance to go, over execrable +roads, I had intended asking them for a new pair, as they had abundance +of everything of the kind sent to them from England, to distribute to the +needy (and I fully came under that description of character); but finding +them so selfish and cold-hearted, and meeting with one refusal, I +refrained, and set off, literally almost barefooted. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLIX. + +THE JOURNEY TO HOKIANGA. + + +We journeyed on all day by a road I had never been before, my attendants +evidently taking by-paths to avoid meeting stragglers or runaways. I was +well laden, having to carry my musket and my basket of provisions; and +each of my men, in addition to the loads I had placed on his shoulders, +bore a basket of potatoes. Once or twice, during our route, we saw some +persons at a distance, and I was sorry to notice the great alarm it +occasioned to my companions, as I now had every reason to apprehend, +that, in case of danger, they would slip off their burdens, make their +escape, and leave me and my baggage to my fate, which the missionaries +had told me they considered a thing very likely to happen. Once we heard +a great firing of muskets, which I afterwards ascertained to be the _feu +de joie_ fired at the first meeting of the chiefs, at their grand +assembling in the neutral village. + +At night, we arrived safe at Patuone's Village, where I had slept on my +first journey across the island; but it now presented a very different +appearance to what it had done then; instead of the tumult I had formerly +heard, all was silence; the numerous families then there, all fully +occupied, were exchanged for a few old surly-looking slaves, and the +huts were all deserted. The inhabitants, in consequence of the rumour of +approaching war, having betaken themselves to one of their fortified pas, +I had no alternative but to pass the night with these suspicious-looking +creatures, who, feeling themselves beyond the control of their cruel +masters, soon gave way to their own vile passions, and became most +impertinent and intrusive--taking every advantage of my loneliness to +indulge their curiosity and familiarity. + +On my arrival, I had deposited my things in one of the empty huts, and +spread my bed, hoping to enjoy the luxury of a few hours' repose after +the fatigue and great anxieties of the day; but these fellows would force +themselves into the hut I had chosen, where they lighted a fire, and sat +chattering around it all the night long. Finding that I did not appear +alarmed at their intrusion or noise, they kept doing everything they +could think of to rouse my fears. They threatened to break open my +portmanteau; and one old wretch sharpened his knife, and made motions as +though he were going to cut my throat and eat me. I knew my only chance +of safety was not to betray any sign of apprehension; so I forced a +laugh, and made them believe I considered their tricks an excellent joke. +I gave them all my tobacco to keep them in good humour; but I passed a +most miserable night, nearly suffocated with smoke, distracted with their +noise, and annoyed by vermin of every description. + +I was most happy when daybreak gave me an excuse for leaving these brutal +savages, and resuming my journey. Every step I took brought before me +proofs of the horrors of war: villages which had been crowded, were now +entirely desolate, and, in many instances, burned to the ground. On that +spot where I had left a party of enterprising Scotchmen busily employed +in sawing timber, with crowds of natives assisting them, all was quiet +and totally deserted, with the exception of a few nearly starved, +wretched-looking dogs, who, hearing someone approach, came out, and tried +to bark at us, but were too weak to utter a sound. + + + + + +CHAPTER L. + +EUROPEAN PREPARATIONS FOR DEFENCE. + + +Our march along the banks of the river was through a most beautiful +country; but all the inhabitants had fled; their plantations were in a +most luxuriant state; fields which I had left bare and uncultivated were +now covered with Indian corn standing higher than my head, the ripe ears +hanging fantastically in all directions, and none to gather in the +harvest; the crops of kumara and potatoes were equally abundant. I could +not help thinking that, if they expected an invasion of their enemies, +they had left an ample supply of forage for their use. In the evening I +arrived at Horeke, or Deptford Dock-yard (of which I made mention in my +first journey). I here found my countrymen in a state of considerable +embarrassment. The various chiefs of that district had encamped all round +them; so near to them had they taken up their position, that, whatever +might be the result of their battles, the European settlement would be in +danger. The settlers had fortified their place of refuge in the best +manner they could; and all were determined to defend themselves and +property to the last. They had four nine-pounders mounted on a hill, and +a tolerable battery made of three-inch pine stuff. + +Before the English erected their fortifications, there was a great +difference of opinion amongst them as to the propriety and utility of +adopting so strong a measure, and the affair was finally put to the vote, +when the majority proved to be in favour of a strong resistance. I +opposed the measure all I could, for I felt convinced that in the event +of our allies being worsted we all should be involved in one common +massacre; whereas, if no resistance was made, plunder alone would have +been the extent of the injury we should suffer; and even of that taking +place I had strong doubts. However, as my opinion was overruled, I had to +submit, which I did unhesitatingly; and, like a good soldier, I held +myself in readiness in case of an attack. + +The proprietor and manager of the Dock-yard possessed certainly a +"satisfying reason" for striving to defend himself at all hazards. The +vessel I had left here, on my former visit, in frame, was now nearly +completed, and a most beautiful one she was. He told me he would much +rather part with life than see her destroyed; and I confess I could fully +enter into his feelings on the subject; but as I had no such object at +stake, and was not quite enthusiastic enough to fight for a vessel I had +no share in, I felt very much inclined to let the natives war among +themselves without interference; but as we Europeans had agreed to assist +each other, I would not be behind-hand. + +I discharged Rivers' two slaves, and rewarded them liberally for +conducting me with safety through such a wild and perilous country; they +departed (after expressing the heartiest wishes for my reaching my own +home in safety, and thanks for my generosity) to join their master at the +great meeting of the chiefs in the interior. These men, while assisting +me, were performing a great service to their master, by acting as spies. +When we started from the Kirikiri each was armed with a musket; but when +we had accomplished about half the journey, they concealed these in a +hollow tree, under pretence of extreme fatigue. I felt convinced at the +time that was not their real reason for so doing; and afterwards I +learned the true motive. Had they been found armed when returning to +their master (who was hostile to those assembled round the Dock-yard), +they would have been detained; but, by their coming unarmed amongst us, +they were suffered to depart; and I have no doubt the information they +carried back to Rivers was very important. I did not mention to anyone +the hiding of these muskets in the woods, though, according to "The +Articles of War," I ought to have done so, as getting possession of them +would have added two more to our strength, and lessened that of our +enemy; my silence arose from a repugnance I felt to betray these poor +creatures, who had behaved so well to me. + +Although prepared for war, we were very well pleased to find no attack +was made upon us. Indeed, from the first, it had been my decided opinion, +that unless we interfered, and made ourselves by that means obnoxious, +they had too much respect for us, and were too anxious to retain our +kindly feelings towards them, to molest us; at the same time, I felt that +it might be a very politic measure to show them what powerful resistance +we could make, if driven to extremities. + +After passing a week of the greatest anxiety, on account of our expected +invasion, it afforded us the utmost satisfaction to receive a visit from +Mr. Hobbs, the Wesleyan missionary, one of the persons who had visited +the war-camp of the assembled chiefs, who were convened, on the death of +our lamented friend George, to debate and decide upon the momentous +question of peace or war. + +The subject (our informant stated) had been gone into at great length, +and stormy and fierce had been the discussion. Finally, the good sense of +the elder and more experienced chiefs prevailed over the fiercer passions +of the younger, and peace was decided upon. This event forms a new era in +"The Political History of the Few Zealanders," it being the first time so +great an assemblage had met to discuss openly a national question, or in +which they had allowed cool reasoning and good sense to prevail over +their habitual ferocity. As may naturally be supposed, where such various +interests were at stake, this pacific measure was not effected without +considerable opposition from the young and furious chiefs. The +provocations given by them to the elders, whose voices were for peace, +were considerable. They did not confine themselves to abuse, but fired +several muskets during debate, in hopes that one shot out of the many +might prove fatal; which, if it had, and any distinguished chief had been +killed, or even wounded, it would have immediately thrown all into +confusion. Even when pacific measures were decided upon by a very large +majority, and the chiefs were about to separate, a bullet was fired from +the pa, which had evidently been aimed at a chief, a well-known ally of +the late Shulitea, as it fell at his feet, and the earth it threw up fell +upon him. For a few seconds surprise kept all silent; but, as the angry +chief rose up, and was about to address the crowd, his friends eagerly +surrounded him, and hurried him away. + +This was the first instance on record, in which these people had laid a +statement of their private wrongs before a public assembly consisting of +deputies from every part of the island, and abided by the decision of the +majority; and it was the only instance of a chief being killed in battle, +and his decease not having been followed up by the plundering and +destruction of his whole family or tribe. + +This had been a question of peculiar interest to us Europeans, as several +of their great men had fallen in a skirmish (whether an accidental one or +a decided combat made not the slightest difference). We knew their +barbarous custom; and, consequently, we were preparing for scenes of +deadly revenge and insatiable fury to be acted by both parties, and which +must have involved all settled here in destruction. Our feelings may +therefore be imagined, when we were informed that a parliament had been +convened, and all the parties interested were present by invitation, and +took part in the debate. A central spot was fixed on to accommodate the +various chieftains. The causes of the accident were then explained; they +wept and lamented the fallen chiefs, and finally retired satisfied to +their several homes. Surely everyone who is interested in tracing our own +form of government, from the present time up to its first rude outline, +will perceive the similarity of causes and events, and will anticipate +the glorious prospect of beholding a clever, brave, and, I may add, noble +race of men, like the New Zealanders, rescued from barbarism. This +pacific and rational discussion among the chiefs seems, in reality, to +give promise of the germ of a regular reform. Should a few more such +meetings take place, and terminate in the same amicable manner (and I +think it very probable), some clever individual may rise up amongst them, +take the reins in his own hands, and establish something like a regular +form of government. + + + + + +CHAPTER LI. + +OBSERVATIONS ON THE SOCIAL CONDITIONS OF THE MAORIS. + + +Feeling that I was not likely now to be called upon to act offensively, I +considered myself at liberty to make numerous excursions round our +fortress, not only to admire this fertile and beautiful country, but to +visit some of my old friends. I was very much astonished and shocked at +seeing several very beautiful young women, whom I left only a few months +back in perfect health and strength, now reduced to mere "living +skeletons," and also to hear of the death of others by consumption. This +disease seems to be the scourge of the young; and when they are once +seized with its symptoms, they are very speedily brought to the grave. +The natives say, "It is Atua, the Great Spirit, coming into them, and +eating up their inside; for the patient can feel those parts gradually go +away, and then they become weaker and weaker till no more is left; after +which the Spirit sends them to the happy island." They never attempt any +means of curing or of alleviating the pains caused by this cruel +complaint; and all those under its influence are tabooed. I procured from +the brig all my remaining stores of tapioca, sago, arrowroot, and sugar, +and distributed them in the best way I could amongst my sick friends. +They were anxious for wine; but that portion of my sea-stock, as well as +spirits, had been long since expended. + +It seems unaccountable that the natives of an atmosphere so dry as this +is--a country in which there are no marshy bogs, and where, though there +is an abundance of water, it is generally seen in clear and sparkling +rills rushing down from the mountains into the rivers--should be subject +to so fatal a disease as galloping consumption. The only cause to which I +can attribute such an affliction is, their indifference to lying out all +night exposed to every change of weather--to cold and rain--which, in +young and tender constitutions, must produce the most pernicious +consequences. If some few are rendered hardy and robust by this process, +many, no doubt, are killed by it. I endeavoured to impress on the minds +of all my female friends the great danger of thus exposing themselves to +cold; but they only laughed at my precautions, and said, "If Atua wished +it, so it must be; they could not strive with the Great Spirit." + +I have heard so much said about the great impropriety of the white +settlers admitting the native females into their society, so much of the +scandalous conduct of captains of ships suffering their men to have +sweethearts during their stay in port, and so much urged in justification +of the indignation shown by the missionaries when this subject is touched +on by them, that I feel it necessary to state one decided benefit which +has resulted from that intercourse, and which, in my opinion, far more +than counterbalances the evil against which there has been raised so loud +an outcry. + +Before our intercourse took place with the New Zealanders, a universal +and unnatural custom existed amongst them, which was that of destroying +most of their female children in infancy, their excuse being that they +were quite as much trouble to rear, and consumed just as much food, as a +male child, and yet, when grown up, they were not fit to go to war as +their boys were. The strength and pride of a chief then consisted in the +number of his sons; while the few females who had been suffered to live +were invariably looked down upon by all with the utmost contempt. They +led a life of misery and degradation. The difference now is most +remarkable. The natives, seeing with what admiration strangers beheld +their fine young women, and what handsome presents were made to them, by +which their families were benefited, feeling also that their influence +was so powerful over the white men, have been latterly as anxious to +cherish and protect their infant girls as they were formerly cruelly bent +on destroying them. Therefore, if one sin has been, to a certain degree, +encouraged, a much greater one has been annihilated. Infanticide, the +former curse of this country, and the cause of its scanty population, a +crime every way calculated to make men bloody-minded and ferocious, and +to stifle every benevolent and tender feeling, has totally disappeared +wherever an intercourse has taken place between the natives and the crews +of European vessels. + +The New Zealand method of "courtship and matrimony" is a most +extraordinary one; so much so, that an observer could never imagine any +affection existed between the parties. A man sees a woman whom he fancies +he should like for a wife; he asks the consent of her father, or, if an +orphan, of her nearest relation, which, if he obtains, he carries his +"intended" off by force, she resisting with all her strength; and, as the +New Zealand girls are generally pretty robust, sometimes a dreadful +struggle takes place; both are soon stripped to the skin, and it is +sometimes the work of hours to remove the fair prize a hundred yards. If +she breaks away, she instantly flies from her antagonist, and he has his +labour to commence again. We may suppose that if the lady feels any wish +to be united to her would-be spouse, she will not make too violent an +opposition; but it sometimes happens that she secures her retreat into +her father's house, and the lover loses all chance of ever obtaining her; +whereas, if he can manage to carry her in triumph into his own, she +immediately, becomes his wife. The women have a decided aversion to +marriage, which can scarcely be wondered at, when we consider how they +are circumstanced. While they remain single, they enjoy all the +privileges of the other sex; they may rove where they please, and bestow +their favours on whom they choose, and are entirely beyond control or +restraint; but when married their freedom is at an end; they become mere +slaves, and sink gradually into domestic drudges to those who have the +power of life and death over them; and whether their conduct be criminal +or exemplary, they are equally likely to receive a blow, in a moment of +passion, of sufficient force to end life and slavery together! There are +many exceptions to this frightful picture; and I saw several old couples, +who had been united in youth, who had always lived in happiness together, +and whose kind and friendly manner towards each other set an example well +worthy of imitation in many English families. + + + + + +CHAPTER LII. + +A MAORI TANGI. + + +April 2nd.--This day, perceiving that an unusual number of canoes were +passing up the river, all proceeding towards the village of Par-Finneigh, +we hailed one; and, upon its coming alongside, we inquired what had +occurred, for every appearance of bustle or commotion amongst this +restless and war-like people is truly alarming. They informed us that the +great chief A-Rowa, who died four months since, and the ceremony of whose +"lying in state" I had been permitted by his eldest son to be a witness +of, was this day to be exposed to the view of his friends; was to be +cried over; and was finally to be deposited in the tomb of his ancestors. +As this was one of their imposing spectacles which I had never yet seen, +I was anxious to witness it. We soon got a boat ready, and a party of us +joined the throng, and proceeded with them to the village. Upon our +arrival thither, we found an immense concourse of people assembled; for +here, as in most uncivilised or early states of society, the disposition +and good qualities of the deceased are made known by the number of +friends and followers who meet at his funeral. As these New Zealanders +were all fully equipped in arms, they had more the appearance of a +hostile meeting in an enemy's camp, than of a group of mourners about to +be occupied in the melancholy duty of depositing out of sight for ever +the last remains of a beloved chief. + +Mooetara, the son and successor of the deceased, came to meet us on the +beach, and seemed much gratified by our attention, our appearance on this +solemn occasion giving him importance in the eyes of all the natives then +assembled. He gave orders for our being conducted with much ceremony to +the place of mourning, where, amidst a number of uncouth pieces of +carving (which, we were informed were all tombs reared in honour of the +memory of several former chiefs, and all tabooed), was erected a small +hut, covered in at the top with thatch, but open at the sides. In the +centre of this hut the bones of the deceased chief were exposed to view. +After having undergone the process of decomposition during four months' +exposure to heat, wind, and rain, they had been collected, cleaned, and +decorated with a quantity of fresh white feathers, which rendered the +appearance of the skull still more frightful. + +The women here invariably perform the parts of chief mourners; a group of +them, with the widow of the deceased at their head, kept up a most +mournful cadence, and at every pause in their dismal song slashed their +skins with a piece of shell, till their faces, necks, and arms were +literally streaming down with blood. This mourning and cutting is +completely a matter of business, and is sometimes carried on without +their feeling any real sorrow or sympathy. Parties kept arriving, and +when there was not room for them to thrust themselves round the hut, they +sat down in groups, perfectly unconcerned, employing themselves in +cleaning their firelocks, or playing off upon each other some practical +joke; but the moment a vacant space was presented near the hut, they +deliberately stripped themselves, put on a most sorrowful countenance, +and, seating themselves as near to the ornamented bones as possible, they +immediately began their howling and slashing; no one seemed to like the +idea of being outdone by his neighbour; but when the time allotted to +this ceremony had expired, all instantly jumped up, wiped themselves, put +on their mats, and joined the busy throng. There was, indeed, one real +mourner, who never moved from the bones, nor once lifted up her eyes from +them; she neither howled nor cut herself, and yet she inspired me with +pity and commiseration for her forlorn state. This woman had been the +only wife of the late chief; and I was informed they had lived many years +together, and had a large family; she looked as if she herself was on the +very brink of the grave. The contemplation of the mouldering remains of +her partner through life must have been, even to her savage mind, most +lacerating. + +After witnessing several parties perform their funeral ceremonies, and +imbibing, in some degree, the melancholy tone of mind such a sight must +necessarily create, we arose and joined Mooetara. Here I witnessed a +scene that reminded me of an English country fair. An immense number of +temporary huts had been erected for the accommodation of the chiefs and +their families, where they might repose after their exertions, while +their slaves cooked their provisions, of which an abundant quantity had +been provided, consisting of piles of kumara and Indian corn, with heaps +of fish, which were served out, to all who came for them, with a most +liberal hand, and which, of course, added not a little to the pleasure of +the day. After all had satisfied their hunger (and even the lowest slaves +were permitted, on this occasion, to have as much as they wished for) +they jumped up, flew to their muskets, and commenced their war dance with +great noise and vigour. The violence of their exertions caused their +recent wounds to bleed afresh, and added much to the horror of their +hideous grimaces. They then divided into two parties, and had a sham +battle. I must here do justice to the temperate habits of my savage +friends. During my residence in New Zealand, I have known but very few +who were addicted to drinking, and I scarcely ever saw one of them in a +state of intoxication; and, on this occasion, where a profusion of what +they esteem delicacies was provided gratuitously, they partook so +moderately of the tempting fare as not to be prevented using the most +violent exertions immediately after their meal. The entertainment being +now over, the different parties gathered up what remained of the portions +of food distributed to them, and without taking any leave of their +entertainer, or returning any thanks for his bountiful providing, they +all entered their canoes and paddled away. + + + + + +CHAPTER LIII. + +CHARACTER OF THE NEW ZEALANDERS. + + +An unfortunate prejudice has gone forth into the world against the +natives of New Zealand, which I have always endeavoured to counteract +from a sense of justice, and, from a careful review of those +circumstances which have fallen immediately under my own observation; +this prejudice has long retarded our knowledge of their true character, +but error must gradually give way to truth; and as the circumstances +which first brought the stigma upon their name come to light, and are +investigated and properly explained, I feel confident the conduct of +these islanders will be found superior to that of any other nation in the +South Seas. If we take the whole catalogue of dreadful massacres they +have been charged with, and (setting aside partiality for our own +countrymen) allow them to be carefully examined, it will be found that we +have invariably been the aggressors; and when we have given serious cause +of offence, can we be so irrational as to express astonishment that a +savage should seek revenge? The last massacre was that of "The Boyd's" +crew; every impartial person who reads the account of that melancholy +transaction must acknowledge the unfortunate captain was most to blame. +But that event took place nineteen years back; since which time they know +us better, and respect us more; in proof of which, four years since, The +Mercury brig was taken possession of by a crowd of natives, after they +had endured a series of offences and every kind of ill-treatment; but the +difference in their fate, compared with that of The Boyd's ship's +company, was remarkable, and proved that the savage temper of the natives +was much softened down and humanised, as they merely plundered the +vessel, but made no attempt to murder or molest any of the crew, who, if +they had possessed sufficient courage, would not have sacrificed their +vessel; but, being terrified, they abandoned her, and she was finally +wrecked. During my residence, I never heard of one of the men having been +murdered; and I feel fully convinced no massacres will ever again be +committed in any of the ports in New Zealand where European vessels have +been accustomed to anchor. + +I once saw, with indignation, a chief absolutely knocked overboard from a +whaler's deck by the mate. Twenty years ago so gross an insult would have +cost the lives of every individual on board the vessel, but, at the time +this occurred, it was only made the subject of complaint, and finally +became a cause of just remonstrance with the commander of the whaler. The +natives themselves (and I have heard the opinions of various tribes) have +invariably told me that these things occurred from our want of knowledge +of their laws and customs, which compelled them to seek revenge. "It +was," they said, "no act of treachery on our part; we did not invite you +to our shores for the purpose of plunder and murder: but you came, and +ill-used us; you broke into our tabooed grounds. And did not Atua give +those bad white men into the hands of our fathers?" + +I am confident that a body of Europeans may now reside in perfect +security in any part of these islands. The late plundering of the +missionaries at Whangaroa was a peculiar circumstance, which might have +happened even in civilised Europe, had the seat of war approached so near +their place of residence. If their houses and chapel had been on the +plains of Waterloo during the June of 1815 they would not have +experienced a better fate. + +This recent tumult has brought a circumstance into notice highly +interesting to all who may hereafter wish to settle here. It has hitherto +been their custom, when an accident occurs, such as the sudden death of a +chief, to make a general plunder of everything belonging to the family of +the deceased, and all under their protection. A knowledge of this +horrible custom has deterred many from settling in New Zealand; and even +those who have resolved to run so great a risk have lived in a continued +state of alarm, lest the death of their protecting chief should leave +them at the mercy of a savage enemy. + +The deaths of Hongi and Shulitea placed the missionaries and all the +settlers on Kororarika Beach in considerable jeopardy: but it appeared as +if reason had begun to dawn on the minds of these benighted savages, for +this unjust and cruel custom was now for the first time discontinued. I +was on the beach at the time when an immense party, well armed, came for +the express purpose of satiating their revengeful feelings. I had taken +the precaution of removing what I possessed on board a whaler then lying +in the harbour. The chiefs first sat down to discuss the matter over +amongst themselves, and their deliberations ended in their being +satisfied with destroying the village of Matowe, the one adjoining ours, +and which had been the residence of Pomare's son, whose death was the +cause of all the late turbulent events. + +The great and leading defect in this country, and the principal cause of +their frequent wars and disturbances, which harass and depopulate the +tribes, and puts a stop to all improvement, is the want of some regular +system of government. There are only two classes of people--chiefs and +slaves; and, as consanguinity constitutes a high claim, the eldest son of +a large family, who can bring the greatest number of warriors of his own +name into the field, is considered the chief of that district or tribe; +and as he, by reason of his followers, can take possession of the +greatest number of prisoners or slaves, he becomes the ruling man. Every +other man of his tribe considers himself on an equality with him in +everything, except that he shows him obedience, and follows him to +battle. + +Each is independent in his own family, and holds uncontrolled power of +life and death over every individual it contains. They seem not to +exercise any coercion over the younger branches of a family, who are +allowed unbounded liberty till the girls have sweethearts and the boys +are strong enough to go to war. They are kind and hospitable to +strangers, and are excessively fond of their children. On a journey, it +is more usual to see the father carrying his infant than the mother; and +all the little offices of a nurse are performed by him with the tenderest +care and good humour. In many instances (wherein they differ from most +savage tribes) I have seen the wife treated as an equal and companion. In +fact, when not engaged in war, the New Zealander is quite a domestic, +cheerful, harmless character; but once rouse his anger, or turn him into +ridicule, and his disposition is instantly changed. A being, whose +passions have never been curbed from infancy, and whose only notion of +what he conceives to be his right is to retaliate for an offence with +blood, must naturally form a cruel and vindictive character. Such these +islanders seemed to us on our first visiting them. The sight of beings so +extraordinary (for thus we Europeans must have appeared to them) excited +in their savage minds the greatest wonder; and they thought we were sent +as a scourge and an enemy; and though Cook, one of their earliest +visitors, adopted every method his ingenuity could devise to conciliate +them, yet, as they never could thoroughly understand his intentions, they +were always on the alert to attack him. Hence arose the horror and +disgust expressed formerly at the mere mention of the name of "a New +Zealander." + +I have often tried, in vain, to account for there being such a decided +dissimilarity between the natives of New Holland and New Zealand. So +trifling is the difference in their situation on the globe, and so +_similar their climates_--both having remained so long unknown to the +great continents, and so devoid of intercourse with the rest of the +world--that one would be led to imagine a great resemblance must be the +result. But the natives of the former seem of the lowest grade--the last +link in the great chain of existence which unites man with the monkey. +Their limbs are long, thin, and flat, with large bony knees and elbows, a +projecting forehead, and pot-belly. The mind, too, seems adapted to this +mean configuration; they have neither energy, enterprise, nor industry; +and their curiosity can scarcely be excited. A few exceptions may be met +with; but these are their general characteristics. While the natives of +the latter island are "cast in beauty's perfect mould;" the children are +so fine and powerfully made, that each might serve as a model for a +statue of "the Infant Hercules;" nothing can exceed the graceful and +athletic forms of the men, or the rounded limbs of their young women. +These possess eyes beautiful and eloquent, and a profusion of long, +silky, curling hair; while the intellects of both sexes seem of a +superior order; all appear eager for improvement, full of energy, and +indefatigably industrious, and possessing amongst themselves several arts +which are totally unknown to their neighbours. + + + + + +CHAPTER LIV. + +THE SETTLEMENT AND TRADE OF HOKIANGA. + + +On April the 14th, our brig being stored with planks, flax, and potatoes, +and ready for sea, I went on board of her. We had fine weather till we +dropped down to the entrance of the river, where we intended taking in +our stock of water for the voyage, when the scene suddenly changed, and a +severe gale came on, right out to sea, which we could not avail ourselves +of; neither could we get the water off, as our rafts of casks got adrift +in the attempt to get them on board. To add to our disasters, one of our +cables parted, and we had to ride out the gale (of two days' continuance) +with one only, the sea rolling heavily right open before us, and we in +momentary expectation of the remaining cable's going; we had not a single +day's allowance of water on board, and at one period all hands (except +the carpenter and passengers) were out of the brig, on shore, filling the +casks. Fortunately for us, the cable proved a tough one; had it parted, +we should have been in a most perilous situation. + +April 20th.--For the last week we were stationary at the river's mouth, +waiting for a fair wind to carry us over the bar; and during that time +there was no appearance of any change; we also heard that vessels had +been detained here for six weeks before they could accomplish it. We +were visited daily by parties of natives, who seemed to rejoice at our +being delayed, as it gave them more of our company than they had +calculated upon. They were more delighted with our society than we were +with theirs; in a small vessel they are a serious nuisance, on account of +the swarms of vermin they bring with them, and which they communicate +liberally to all. Myself and all the passengers on board had our leisure +time fully occupied in dislodging these "little familiars" from their +strongholds in different parts of our apparel. + +During the time we were lying here, I saw and conversed with several +individuals who had attended the "Great Meeting," and their accounts gave +rise to various opinions respecting the policy of supplying the natives +with firearms. As I had always been an advocate for the measure, I was +gratified by hearing that it was thought to be in consequence of each +party's being possessed of a nearly equal quantity of muskets, that a +general and exterminating war was avoided. Some may suppose that similar +tranquility would have been preserved, had they been equally well +supplied with their native weapons of war; but that would not have been +the case. When they found that each party could furnish forth the same +number of European muskets, they paused, well knowing that it was +contrary to the wish of all the white settlers that they should proceed +to hostilities. Indeed, Europeans intrepidly mingled amongst them, urging +them to a reconciliation, and threatening that, if they failed in their +endeavours, the supplies of arms and ammunition should be discontinued. +This threat had its desired effect on the minds of the natives; no blood +was spilt, and each chief returned quietly to his own home. + +On the night we heard of the death of George and his wife, "Revenge and +war" was the universal cry. His party would not believe that it could be +an accident, nor would they hear of any apology being received. At this +time they imagined the tribes of Hokianga were possessed of but very few +firearms; and, as the skirmish took place in that district, it was +determined that an exterminating war should be carried into the heart of +it. However, before all the preparations could be made to carry their +intentions into effect, they received certain information that the people +of Hokianga were even better supplied with muskets than those of the Bay +of Islands. This intelligence occasioned an assemblage of the different +tribes to be proposed, and when it took place the friends of George saw +their opponents so well prepared for the "tug of war" that they deemed it +judicious to come forward and to shake hands and to acknowledge that the +death of Shulitea proceeded either from accident or mistake. A curious +circumstance took place in the midst of their debate. An old chief, who +wished for a fight, and did not approve of the introduction of firearms, +but was an advocate for the old method of New Zealand warfare, proposed +that each party should send away _all_ their muskets and ammunition, and +engage manfully with their own native weapons, and then it could be +easily proved which were the "best men;" but this mode of settling the +dispute, not being agreeable to the majority, was instantly negatived, +and treated with disdain. + +The colony of Scotch carpenters, who had formed a settlement at the head +of the river, and of whom I made "honourable mention" on my first +journey, finding themselves so close to what they feared might become +the seat of war, and having no means whatever of defending themselves, +made an arrangement with Mooetara, the chief of Parkunugh (which is +situated at the entrance of the same river), and placed themselves under +his protection. They accordingly moved down here, which gave great +satisfaction to that chief. Neither could their former protector, +Patuone, feel offended at their removal, from the peculiar nature of the +circumstances they were placed in. These hardy North Britons were +delighted to find a reasonable excuse for moving, their former +establishment being situated too far from the sea for them to reap any +advantage from ships coming into port. Nothing can be more gratifying +than to behold the great anxiety of the natives to induce Englishmen to +settle amongst them; it ensures their safety; and no one act of treachery +is on record of their having practised towards those whom they had +invited to reside with them. + +Mooetara is a man of great property and high rank, and is considered a +very proud chief by the natives; yet he is to be seen every day working +as hard as any slave in assisting in the erection of houses for the +accommodation of his new settlers. He has actually removed from his old +village of Parkunugh (a strong and beautiful place), and is erecting huts +for his tribe near the spot chosen by his new friends; so that, in a very +short time, a barren point of land, hitherto without a vestige of a human +habitation, will become a thriving and populous village, for it is +incredible how quickly the orders of these chiefs are carried into +effect. I was frequently a witness to the short space of time they took +to erect their houses; and, though small, they are tight, weather-proof, +and warm: their storehouses are put together in the most substantial and +workmanlike manner. + +It is very difficult to make the New Zealanders explain the nature of +their religious belief. One superstition seems general with all the +tribes respecting the formation of the world, or, rather, of their own +island, for that is the place of the first importance in their +estimation. They say a man, or a god, or some great spirit, was fishing +in his war-canoe, and pulled up a large fish, which instantly turned into +an island; and a lizard came upon that, and brought up a man out of the +water by his long hair; and he was the father of all the New Zealanders. +Almost all their grotesque carvings are illustrations of this idea in +some way or other. The favourite theme on which (I observed) the +missionaries discoursed to them were "the torments of hell." This has +become a subject of ridicule to most of the natives; they do not deny +that there may be such a place, but they add, it is not for them, for if +Atua had intended it so he would have sent them word about it long before +he sent the white men into their country; and they conclude by stating +that they know perfectly well the situation of the island where they are +to go to after this life. + + + + + +CHAPTER LV. + +MASSACRE OF A SCHOONER'S CREW. + + +While remaining here wind-bound, in imaginary security, and amusing +ourselves with noticing the curious customs and peculiarities of these +islanders, a dreadful tragedy was taking place only a few miles' distance +from us, and to which I before alluded, when I mentioned crossing the bar +on our first arrival from Port Jackson. The Enterprise schooner, a very +fine vessel, which was built at the settlement on this river, had been +sent to Sydney, and while we were lying there we were in hourly +expectation of her return. She did return. The unfavourable weather which +detained us so long proved fatal to her, and she was wrecked a few miles +to the northward of the river's mouth, and every soul on board perished. + +The moment this catastrophe was known every European hastened to the +spot, and, with feelings of horror, perceived but too plainly, from the +appearance of the wreck and the boat, and by finding also the clothes of +the crew, that they had reached the shore in safety, and had afterwards +all been murdered; but how, or by whom, it was impossible to discover. +The most probable conclusion was that the tribes situated around the +European dockyard at Hokianga, having meditated for some time past a +great war-like expedition, waited the return of this schooner from Sydney +to possess themselves of an additional supply of arms and ammunition, +which might enable them to take the field with a certainty of conquest. +They had regularly purchased the cargo of this vessel by their labour +and their merchandise, and the schooner was merely employed to convey it +thither from Sydney, for the use of the natives; unhappily for the poor +creatures on board, in running for the mouth of the river, she fell to +leeward, and got stranded on the beach, in the very territory of that +tribe against whom these preparations were made--the tribe intended to be +invaded. Though no formal declaration of war had taken place, the tribes +well knew the preparations that were making against them, and the nature +of the cargo contained in The Enterprise; falling into the hands of such +fierce and vindictive savages, the fate of the crew may be imagined--all +our poor fellows were sacrificed to gratify their feelings of revenge. + +Mooetara (the friendly chief of Hokianga) no sooner heard of the fate of +the vessel and her crew than he hastened with his party to the spot; it +was owing to the investigation which then took place that the conclusion +was arrived at that all had been murdered. What remained for Mooetara to +do (according to their savage notion of what was right) was to take ample +revenge on all the hostile tribes that might fall in his way, whether our +poor countrymen met their deaths through accident or treachery. Mooetara +instantly commenced the work of destruction; and, having made his +vengeance complete, he returned laden with spoil. The promptness with +which he acted on this melancholy occasion greatly increased the feelings +of security possessed by those Englishmen settled on the banks of the +river, as it proved to them that he was both able and willing to protect +them, and though the dead could not be restored, yet he had inflicted an +awful punishment on their murderers. + + + + + +CHAPTER LVI. + +FAREWELL TO NEW ZEALAND. + + +On the 21st a fair wind and smooth sea favoured our departure. Early in +the morning the natives who were on board assured us everything would +facilitate our passing over the bar with safety, and they prepared to +leave the ship. When the moment of separation came, it caused a great +deal of emotion on both sides. I must confess I felt much affected when I +came to rub noses, shake hands, and say "Farewell" to these kind-hearted +people. I saw them go over the ship's side, and reflected that I should +never behold them more. There is always something repugnant to our +feelings in the idea of separating from any being for ever; and as, in +this instance, I felt assured that this was our last time of meeting, it +cast a gloom over the pleasure the fair wind and smooth sea would +otherwise have afforded me. As we fell down towards the river's mouth, +and, indeed, as long as their canoes were to be seen, they kept waving +their hands towards us. + +Thus terminated my visit to the islands of New Zealand. I had arrived +with feelings of fear and disgust, and was merely induced to take up a +temporary residence amongst the natives, in hopes of finding something +new for my pencil in their peculiar and picturesque style of life. I left +them with opinions, in many respects, very favourable towards them. It +is true, they are cunning and over-reaching in trade, and filthy in their +persons. In regard to the former, we Europeans, I fear, set them a bad +example; of the latter, they will gradually amend. Our short visit to +Kororarika greatly improved them in that particular. All took great pains +to come as clean as possible when they attended our "evening +tea-parties." In my opinion, their sprightly, free, and independent +deportment, together with their kindness and attention to strangers, +compensates for many defects. + +On looking round upon their country, an Englishman cannot fail to feel +gratified when he beholds the good already resulting to these poor +savages from their intercourse with his countrymen; and they themselves +are fully sensible of, and truly grateful for, every mark of kindness +manifested towards them. They have stores full of the finest Indian corn, +which they consider a great luxury, a food which requires little trouble +in preparing, keeps well, and is very nutritious. It is but a few years +since this useful grain was introduced amongst them; and I sincerely hope +this introduction may be followed up, not only by our sending out to them +seeds of vegetables and fruits, but by our forwarding to them every +variety of quadruped which can be used for food. Abundance of the finest +water-melons are daily brought alongside vessels entering their ports; +these, in point of flavour, are superior to any I ever met with. I have +no doubt every variety of European produce essential to the support of +life would thrive equally well; and as food became abundant, and luxuries +were introduced, their disgusting feasts on human flesh would soon be +discontinued altogether. + +We were soon at sea, and speedily felt considerable apprehensions as to +the safe termination of our voyage. Our vessel (the brig Governor +Macquarie) we well knew was a leaky one, though her leaks did not +distress us on the outward voyage, she being then only in ballast trim; +but now that she was loaded to the water's edge, and the winter coming +on, we became greatly alarmed for her. Another disagreeable circumstance +was having no bread or flour on board. To obviate the first evil, and to +save the sailors a great deal of hard labour, our Captain offered to give +a passage to Sydney to several natives, who accepted his offer, they +being always anxious to see the colony; we likewise had on board the +great Chief from the Thames, who had caused us so much trouble at +Kororarika. These men, being fine, strong, active young fellows, were +indefatigable in their exertions at the pumps; and though we had to +contend with much heavy weather, and contrary winds, they kept our vessel +pretty dry. The want of bread was not so easily remedied; though our +Captain treated it lightly, saying he was sure of getting a supply by +making a requisition to the missionaries. He accordingly waited upon +them, and acquainted them with our distressed condition; they had plenty +(for only a few weeks previously they had received a large supply), and +as we knew their agent at Sydney, Mr. Campbell, we had no doubt of +procuring a sufficiency from them to carry us home; but in this we were +disappointed. Captain Kent did not ask them for a supply as a gift, but +solicited merely the _loan_ of a cask or two till we arrived at Sydney, +when he guaranteed that the owners of the brig should return the same +quantity into the missionary storehouse there. The little monosyllable +_No_ was again put in requisition, with this qualification--"that they +did not like the Botany Bay skippers." Through their "dislike," the +passengers and seamen of the brig might have gone unprovided to sea, had +not a "worldly-minded" whaler (fortunately for us) at that critical +moment come into port, who, the instant he heard of the ill-success of +our entreaty, vented his indignation in pretty coarse language, and said, +"if it detained his vessel a week, he would supply us;" and he kept his +word; he gave us a bountiful supply, which rendered us comfortable during +the whole way home. + +It was most interesting to observe our savages when we got well out to +sea. They soon appeared to become accustomed to their novel situation, +and seemed to feel quite at home and at their ease "on board ship." Their +exertions at the pumps were indefatigable. I felt convinced they thought +that during all voyages the same labour was gone through to keep the +vessel afloat; and as it only required strength and exertion, they +cheerfully took that department entirely to themselves, especially as +they soon perceived how useless they were when they attempted to perform +any other duty on board of the brig, as their knowledge of voyaging +extended no further than the distance they go in their own canoes, which, +though very beautiful, are sad leaky things at sea; and as, during the +time they are out, the greater part of the crew are baling the water out +of them, they thought the leaky state of our vessel was no uncommon +occurrence. But however cheerfully they worked during the day, nothing +could induce them to "turn out" at night; they always stowed themselves +away, but in what part of the vessel I never could conjecture. They have +a dread of some unknown evil spirit, which they imagine has power over +them at night; and this supposition makes them terrible cowards in the +dark. + +The second day after we were at sea, I saw a group of savages lying round +the binnacle, all intently occupied in observing the phenomenon of the +magnetic attraction; they seemed at once to comprehend the purpose to +which it was applied, and I listened with eager curiosity to their +remarks upon it. + +"This," said they, "is the white man's God, who directs them safely to +different countries, and then can guide them home again." Out of +compliment to us, and respect for its wonderful powers, they seemed much +inclined to worship this silent little monitor. + +During our voyage to Port Jackson we experienced a succession of +southerly gales, which Captain Kent informed me were very prevalent at +this season of the year. Notwithstanding all our exertions to prevent it, +we were carried considerably to leeward of the port. We made Lord Howe's +Islands, whose high and bold features rise, as it were, out of the ocean; +as we passed close to them, we perceived they were well wooded and +watered; and one of the men, who had been on shore there, informed me that +there was a tolerably good harbour for small craft. A few miles to the +southward of these islands is Ball's Pyramid, a most singular and +sublime-looking rock, rising perpendicularly out of the sea to a height +of a thousand feet; the base of it is enveloped in perpetual surf, +dashing and climbing up its craggy sides. Its appearance, as we saw it, +relieved by the setting sun, and the coming on of a stormy night, was +awful in the extreme! + +Nothing could exceed the delight manifested by our New Zealanders as we +sailed up Port Jackson harbour; but, above all, the windmills most +astonished them. After dancing and screaming with joy at beholding them, +they came running and asking me "if they were not gods." I found they +were inclined to attach that sacred appellation to most things they could +not understand; they did so when they first became possessed of their +muskets, and actually worshipped them, until they discovered how soon +they got out of repair, and then, notwithstanding all the prayers they +could bestow upon them, they would not mend again of their own accord. + +Our Chief from the Thames, who had a great idea of his own dignity, +commenced adorning his person, as he felt convinced the Governor would +instantly grant him an audience when he came on shore. All our lamps were +emptied to add a more beautiful gloss to his hair and complexion; his +whole stock of feathers and bones were arranged to the greatest +advantage. He at length became quite enraged when he found that he was +allowed to sit two days on our deck, amongst all manner of dirty porters +and sailors, without either being visited or sent for; and he was loud in +his reproaches to us for having deceived him. We certainly were to blame +in having induced him to believe we had any influence with the Governor, +for however politic we (who had lived in New Zealand) might think it, to +pay some attentions to these simple savages, his Excellency, +unfortunately, thought otherwise; and though the Chief, attended by his +followers, used to sit in the verandah at Government House from morning +till night, the Governor never once deigned to speak to them, and they +were, in consequence, constantly coming to me with complaints. At length +they told me that unless they obtained an audience from our Chief they +should consider it so great an insult that they would revenge it upon all +the Europeans they could get into their power; and I, well knowing that +several families were settled in that part of the country wherein this +man was Chief, thought it my duty to let the Governor know, that, however +he might dislike their manners and appearance, it might lead to some +serious calamity, if he continued to refuse to give them an audience. + +I accordingly waited upon the Brigade Major, and explained to him how +unwise it was to treat these men with such undisguised contempt. The +result was, the Governor saw the affair in the same point of view as +myself, and condescended to meet them and converse with them for about +five minutes; and with that they were satisfied. Other heads of +departments (civil and military) behaved differently, and evidently felt +a pleasure in having them with them. The Commander of the troops suffered +them to sit at the same table with himself and officers, and had the +war-dance performed in the mess-room, which I thought would have brought +the house down upon our heads. He likewise permitted them to fall into +the ranks with the soldiers, which pleased them beyond everything, +inasmuch as they considered it a higher honour in being permitted to +stand by our warriors on the martial parade than to take food with our +Chiefs at their own table! + +The Attorney-General of the colony took a particular interest in these +savages, and gave a large party, to which they were invited. Several of +the visitors on this occasion came out of curiosity to see how these +cannibals would conduct themselves, expecting, no doubt, to witness a +display of disgusting gluttony; but in that they were disappointed, for +never did any set of men behave with greater decorum than they did. + +On being apprised of this invitation, they were all most anxious to +obtain European dresses, and when we refused to lend them ours, they +requested of our servants the loan of a suit. This being denied them +also, with the little money they had they attempted to bargain for whole +suits of _convict_ dresses, in order to make their _debut_ in style at +the table of the Attorney-General! When I discovered this to be the case, +I explained to them the impropriety of their conduct, and roused their +pride by pointing out to them the absurdity of men of their high rank in +their own country wishing to appear in the cast-off dress of degraded +slaves, and how much more suitable it was to the dignity of their +character to appear in their own national costume. Accordingly, on the +appointed day, they met the company superbly attired in mats and +feathers; they made a splendid show at the dinner-table, and afforded +great amusement to the evening visitors. At an early hour they got very +sleepy, but were too polite to hint how much they felt oppressed by +drowsiness. I saw their eyes grow heavy, and perceived that it was +difficult for them to sit upright on their chairs. I mentioned these +symptoms to their kind host, who immediately consented to their retiring. +They accordingly withdrew into a corner of one of the adjoining rooms, +where, lying down huddled together, and covering themselves with their +mats, they were soon asleep, and gave no interruption to anyone during +the remainder of the evening. + +The greatest treat it was in our power to bestow on them was to take them +to a review of the troops then stationed at Sydney. The splendour of +their regimentals, the regularity of their movements, and the precision +of their firing, made them nearly mad with delight; they ran about the +plain literally wild with joy, occasionally stopping to gaze with wonder +on men performing what they deemed such prodigies. In their ecstasies +they occasionally vociferated their own furious war-whoop. Their +extravagant expressions of delight, and their many extraordinary +gestures, caused great amusement both to the military and to the +spectators assembled on the ground; and when the review was over my +savage friends were quite exhausted with fatigue and excitement. + +After two months' residence at Sydney we had an opportunity of procuring +a passage for them to their own country; and they departed, expressing +the greatest gratitude for our attentions towards them. They were loaded +with presents of all descriptions; for, finding they generally got what +they begged for, while here, they importuned everyone they met, and they +used daily to return home burthened with the most miscellaneous and +extraordinary jumble of commodities it was possible to conceive; for, as +everything they then beheld was new to them, and might be (they thought) +of some service to them in their own country, each trifle was of great +value in their estimation, and was carefully stowed away. They always +expressed their concern that so few muskets were given to them, and that +they were presented with ammunition in such small quantities. War-like +stores were their grand desideratum; and though they would accept of any +thing you chose to give them, yet they always had hopes they should +finally receive their favourite presents of a stocking of powder, a piece +of lead, or a musket. + +THE END. + + + + + +APPENDIX I. + +MASSACRE OF CAPT. FURNEAUX'S BOAT'S CREW. + +CANNIBALISM OF THE MAORIS. + + +[_The following is the account given by Captain Furneaux of the massacre +of his boat's crew, referred to in Earle's narrative on page 24._] + + * * * * * + +The Resolution, under command of Captain Cook, and the Adventure, +commanded by Captain Furneaux, sailed from Plymouth on the 13th April, +1772, to continue the exploration of New Zealand begun during Captain +Cook's first voyage. The vessels became finally separated in a gale off +Cape Palliser in October, 1773, and the two navigators did not meet again +until after Cook's return to England in July, 1775. + +Captain Furneaux reported that while his ship was refitting in Queen +Charlotte Sound the astronomer's tent was robbed by a party of natives. +One who was seen escaping was fired upon and wounded, when he and his +confederates made for the woods, leaving their canoe with most of the +stolen goods on the shore. "This petty larceny," Captain Furneaux +remarks, "probably laid the foundation of that dreadful catastrophe which +soon after happened," and which he thus describes: + +"On Friday, the 17th, we sent out our large cutter, manned with seven +seamen, under the command of Mr. John Rowe, the first mate, accompanied +by Mr. Woodhouse, midshipman, and James Tobias Swilley, the carpenter's +servant. They were to proceed up the Sound to Grass Cove to gather greens +and celery for the ship's company, with orders to return that evening; +for the tents had been struck at two in the afternoon, and the ship made +ready for sailing the next day. Night coming on, and no cutter appearing, +the captain and others began to express great uneasiness. They sat up all +night in expectation of their arrival, but to no purpose. At daybreak, +therefore, the captain ordered the launch to be hoisted out. She was +double manned, and under the command of our second lieutenant, Mr. +Burney, accompanied by Mr. Freeman, master, the corporal of marines, with +five private men, all well armed, and having plenty of ammunition and +three days' provision. They were ordered first to look into East Bay, +then to proceed to Grass Cove, and if nothing was to be seen or heard of +the cutter there, they were to go farther up the cove, and return by the +west shore. Mr. Rowe having left the ship an hour before the time +proposed for his departure, we thought his curiosity might have carried +him into East Bay, none of our people having ever been there, or that +some accident might have happened to the boat, for not the least +suspicion was entertained of the natives. Mr. Burney returned about +eleven o'clock the same night, and gave us a pointed description of a +most horrible scene, described in the following relation:-- + +"'On Saturday, the 18th, we left the ship about nine o'clock in the +morning. We soon got round Long Island and Long Point. We continued +sailing and rowing for East Bay, keeping close in shore, and examining +with our glasses every cove on the larboard side, till near two o'clock +in the afternoon, at which time we stopped at a beach on our left going +up East Bay, to dress our dinner. + +"'About five o'clock in the afternoon, and within an hour after we had +left this place, we opened a small bay adjoining to Grass Cove, and here +we saw a large double canoe just hauled upon the beach, with two men and +a dog. The two men, on seeing us approach, instantly fled, which made us +suspect it was here we should have some tidings of the cutter. On landing +and examining the canoe, the first thing we saw therein was one of our +cutter's rowlock ports and some shoes, one of which among the latter was +known to belong to Mr. Woodhouse. A piece of flesh was found by one of +our people, which at first was thought to be some of the salt meat +belonging to the cutter's men, but, upon examination, we supposed to be +dog's flesh. A most horrid and undeniable proof soon cleared up our +doubts, and convinced us we were among no other than cannibals; for, +advancing further on the beach, we saw about twenty baskets tied up, and +a dog eating a piece of broiled flesh, which, upon examination, we +suspected to be human. We cut open the baskets, some of which were full +of roasted flesh, and others of fern root, which serves them for bread. +Searching others, we found more shoes and a hand, which was immediately +known to have belonged to Thos. Hill, one of our forecastle men, it +having been tattooed with the initials of his name. We now proceeded a +little way in the woods, but saw nothing else. Our next design was to +launch the canoe, intending to destroy her; but seeing a great smoke +ascending over the nearest hill, we made all possible haste to be with +them before sunset. + +"'At half after six we opened Grass Cove, where we saw one single and +three double canoes, and a great many natives assembled on the beach, who +retreated to a small hill, within a ship's length of the water side, +where they stood talking to us. On the top of the high land, beyond the +woods, was a large fire, from whence, all the way down the hill, the +place was thronged like a fair. When we entered the cove, a musketoon was +fired at one of the canoes, as we imagined they might be full of men +lying down, for they were all afloat, but no one was seen in them. Being +doubtful whether their retreat proceeded from fear or a desire to decoy +us into an ambuscade, we were determined not to be surprised, and +therefore, running close in shore, we dropped the grappling near enough +to reach them with our guns, but at too great a distance to be under any +apprehensions from their treachery. The savages on the little hill kept +their ground, hallooing, and making signs for us to land. At these we now +took aim, resolving to kill as many of them as our bullets would reach, +yet it was some time before we could dislodge them. The first volley did +not seem to affect them much, but on the second they began to scramble +away as fast as they could, some howling and others limping. We continued +to fire as long as we could see the least glimpse of any of them through +the bushes. Among these were two very robust men, who maintained their +ground without moving an inch till they found themselves forsaken by all +their companions, and then, disdaining to run, they marched off with +great composure and deliberation. One of them, however, got a fall, and +either lay there or crawled away on his hands and feet; but the other +escaped without any apparent hurt. Mr. Burney now improved their panic, +and, supported by the marines, leaped on shore and pursued the fugitives. +We had not advanced far from the water-side, on the beach, before we met +with two bunches of celery, which had been gathered by the cutter's crew. +A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to which the natives had +tied their canoes, whereby we were convinced this was the spot where the +attack had been made. We now searched all along at the back of the beach, +to see if the cutter was there, but instead of her, the most horrible +scene was presented to our view; for there lay the hearts, heads, and +lungs of several of our people, with hands and limbs in a mangled +condition, some broiled and some raw; but no other parts of their bodies, +which made us suspect that the cannibals had feasted upon and devoured +the rest. At a little distance we saw the dogs gnawing their entrails. We +observed a large body of the natives collected together on a hill about +two miles off, but as night drew on apace, we could not advance to such a +distance; neither did we think it safe to attack them, or even to quit +the shore to take an account of the number killed, our troop being a very +small one, and the savages were both numerous, fierce, and much +irritated. While we remained almost stupefied on the spot, Mr. Fannen +said that he heard the cannibals assembling in the woods, on which we +returned to our boat, and having hauled alongside the canoes, we +demolished three of them. During this transaction the fire on the top of +the hill disappeared, and we could hear the savages in the woods at high +words, quarrelling, perhaps, on account of their different opinions, +whether they should attack us and try to save their canoes. They were +armed with long lances, and weapons not unlike a sergeant's halbert in +shape, made of hard wood, and mounted with bone instead of iron. We +suspected that the dead bodies of our people had been divided among those +different parties of cannibals who had been concerned in the massacre, +and it was not improbable that the group we saw at a distance by the fire +were feasting upon some of them, as those on shore had been where the +remains were found, before they had been disturbed by our unexpected +visit. Be that as it may, we could discover no traces of more than four +of our friends' bodies, nor could we find the place where the cutter was +concealed. It now grew dark, on which account we collected carefully the +remains of our mangled friends, and, putting off, made the best of our +way from this polluted place. When we opened the upper part of the Sound, +we saw a very large fire about three or four miles higher up, which +formed a complete oval, reaching from the top of a hill down almost to +the water-side, the middle space being enclosed all round by the fire, +like a hedge. Mr. Burney and Mr. Fannen having consulted together, they +were both of opinion that we could, by an attempt, reap no other +advantage than the poor satisfaction of killing some more of the savages. +Upon leaving Grass Cove we had fired a volley towards where we heard the +Indians talking, but by going in and out of the boat our pieces had got +wet, and four of them missed fire. What rendered our situation more +critical, it began to rain, and our ammunition was more than half +expended. We, for these reasons, without spending time where nothing +could be hoped for but revenge, proceeded for the ship, and arrived safe +aboard before midnight.'" + +It is a little remarkable that Captain Furneaux had been several times up +Grass Cove with Captain Cook, where they saw no inhabitants, and no other +signs of any but a few deserted villages, which appeared as if they had +not been occupied for many years, and yet, in Mr. Burney's opinion, when +he entered the same cove, there could not be less than fifteen hundred or +two thousand people. + +On Thursday, the 23rd of December, the Adventure departed from, and made +sail out of, the Sound. She stood to the eastward, to clear the straits, +which was happily effected the same evening; but the ship was baffled for +two or three days with light winds before she could clear the coast. In +this interval of time the chests and effects of the ten men who had been +murdered were sold before the mast, according to an old sea custom. + +When Captain Cook was in the Sound on his third voyage, he learned that +the massacre arose over an unpremeditated quarrel. Kahura, who had been +active in the tragedy, told Cook that a Maori having brought a stone +hatchet to barter, the man to whom it was offered took it, and would +neither return it nor give anything for it, and on which the owner +snatched some bread from the party of Europeans, who were at dinner on +the beach, as an equivalent, and then the quarrel began. Kahura himself +had a narrow escape of being shot, while another was shot beside him; and +the Europeans, outnumbered, were surrounded and killed. It was also +stated by the natives that not one of the shots fired by the party of +Captain Furneaux led by Mr. Burney to search for the missing people had +taken effect so as to kill or even to hurt a single person. + + + + + +APPENDIX II. + +THE DEATH OF WHAREUMU (KING GEORGE). + + +The death of this Bay of Islands chief, who acted as protector to Mr. +Earle during his residence at Kororareka, is thus described by Messrs. +Hobbs and Stack, Wesleyan missionaries at Hokianga, in a letter dated +from Mangungu, Hokianga, on the 22nd March, 1828:-- + +"On the same day that Hongi died at Whangaroa a son of the late Pomare's, +named Tiki, was killed at Waima by a chief of the tribe called +Mahurihuri. Waima is in Hokianga, and only a few miles distance from us. +The cause of the quarrel was this: Tiki had had some of his pigs stolen +by the natives of Waima, and he was seeking utu by robbing their sweet +potato plantations, for which he was shot. + +"As soon as the report of the young man's death reached the Bay of +Islands, 400 natives collected together, forming two divisions, under two +separate chiefs, Whareumu, or, as he is called by the Europeans, King +George, and Toi, and came to Hokianga. Toi and his party arrived first at +Waima, where he found Patuone and all the natives and other chiefs of our +district. After robbing the natives of Waima of their potatoes, etc., +peace was made, and no further evil consequences seemed likely to arise. +The next day, the 14th, Whareumu and his party arrived. He was highly +displeased with Toi for having made peace on such easy terms. He +prevailed upon him, therefore, to break his league. Whareumu was also +very insolent to Muriwai, intimated that he was a coward, and poured +contempt upon the idea of the Hokianga natives standing in their own +defence. On the morning of the 15th a quarrel ensued between the 400 Bay +of Islanders and the natives of Waima, our natives also having now become +their allies. This fray did not at the outset seem likely to be attended +with fatal results, but, as Solomon justly observes, the beginning of +strife is like the letting out of water; so it was in this instance. +Shots were fired on both sides till several were killed and wounded. At +length Muriwai, who was a pacificator, was wounded and fell. Supposing he +was killed, our natives (for the natives of Waima fled as soon as matters +assumed a serious aspect) no longer regarded matters lightly, but turned +round in great rage, for they also were in the act of retreating, and +singled out Whareumu as a satisfaction for Muriwai. Whareumu received two +balls before he was killed. The one which killed him went through his +throat. As soon as he fell all his followers fled, leaving about nine of +their companions dead on the field, amongst whom was Oro, the chief who +commenced our Whangaroa robbing. This ended the contest. Patuone and Nene +immediately took up the body of the fallen chief and made great +lamentation over him, and have since placed his body between the bodies +of their own relations as a mark of respect." + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative of a Nine Months' +Residence in New Zealand in 1827, by Augustus Earle + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11933 *** diff --git a/11933-8.txt b/11933-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..606bf77 --- /dev/null +++ b/11933-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6428 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative of a Nine Months' Residence in +New Zealand in 1827, by Augustus Earle + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Narrative of a Nine Months' Residence in New Zealand in 1827 + +Author: Augustus Earle + +Release Date: April 7, 2004 [EBook #11933] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEW ZEALAND IN 1827 *** + + + + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram and PG Distributed Proofreaders + + + + +[Illustration: A New Zealand War Speech. (From a sketch by A. Earle.)] + + + + +A NARRATIVE + +OF A + +NINE MONTHS' RESIDENCE + +IN + +NEW ZEALAND + +IN 1827 + +BY + +AUGUSTUS EARLE + +DRAUGHTSMAN TO HIS MAJESTY'S SURVEYING SHIP + +"THE BEAGLE." + +Whitecombe & Tombs Limited + +Christchurch, Wellington, and Dunedin, N.Z.; + +Melbourne and London + +1909 + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +The author of this account of New Zealand in the year 1827 was an artist +by profession. "A love of roving and adventure," he states, tempted him, +at an early age, to sea. In 1815 he procured a passage on board a +storeship bound for Sicily and Malta, where he had a brother stationed +who was a captain in the navy. He visited many parts of the +Mediterranean, accompanying Lord Exmouth's fleet in his brother's gunboat +on his Lordship's first expedition against the Barbary States. He +afterwards visited the ruins of Carthage and the remains of the ancient +city of Ptolomea, or Lepida, situated in ancient Libya. Returning to +Malta, he passed through Sicily, and ascended Mount Etna. In 1818 he left +England for the United States, and spent nearly two years in rambling +through that country. Thence he proceeded to Brazil and Chile, returning +to Rio de Janeiro, where he practised his art until the commencement of +1824. Having received letters of introduction to Lord Amherst, who had +left England to undertake the government of India, Mr. Earle left Rio for +the Cape of Good Hope, intending to take his passage thence to Calcutta. +On the voyage to the Cape the vessel by which he was a passenger touched +at Tristan d'Acunha, and was driven off that island in a gale while Mr. +Earle was ashore, leaving him stranded in that desolate land, where he +remained for six months, when he was rescued by a passing ship, the +"Admiral Cockburn," bound for Van Diemen's Land, whence he visited New +South Wales and New Zealand, returning again to Sydney. In pursuance of +his original resolution to visit India, he left Sydney in "The Rainbow," +touching at the Caroline Islands, Manilla, and Singapore. After spending +some time in Madras, where he executed many original drawings, which were +afterwards copied and exhibited in a panorama, he set out for England by +a French vessel, which was compelled by stress of weather to put into +Mauritius, where she was condemned. Mr. Earle ultimately reached England +in a vessel named the "Resource," but, being still animated by the desire +for travel, he accepted the situation of draughtsman on His Majesty's +ship "Beagle," commanded by Captain Fitzroy, which in the year 1831 left +on a voyage of discovery that has been made famous by the observations of +Charles Darwin, who accompanied the expedition in the capacity of +naturalist. + +The notes which furnished the materials for this book were made by Mr. +Earle during his first visit to New Zealand, in 1827. They are valuable +as setting forth the impressions formed by an educated man, who came into +the primitive community then existing at Hokianga and the Bay of Islands, +without being personally connected either with the trading community, +the missionaries, or the whalers. It should not be inferred from the +reflections Mr. Earle casts upon the missionaries that he was himself an +irreligious man, because the journal of his residence on Tristan d'Acunha +shows that, while living there, he read the whole service of the Church +of England to that little community every Sunday, and his diary in many +places exhibits a reverence for Divine things. It may, however, be said +in extenuation of the lack of hospitality on the part of the missionaries +of which he complains, that many of the early residents and European +visitors to New Zealand were of an undesirable class, and that they +exercised a demoralising influence upon the Maoris. It was not easy for +the missionaries to consort, upon terms of intimacy, with their +fellow-countrymen whose relations with the Natives were such as they must +strongly condemn. Earle's narrative is interesting because it conveys a +realistic description of the Maoris before their national customs and +habits had undergone any material change through association with white +settlers. In dealing with Maori names, Mr. Earle, having at that period +no standard of orthography to guide him, followed the example of Captain +Cook in spelling words phonetically. Except in the case of certain +well-known places the original spelling has been retained in the present +edition of his book. + + + + +CONTENTS. + +CHAPTER I. + +VOYAGE FROM SYDNEY +WRECKS AT HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER II. + +MAORI WELCOME +NATIVE CHARACTERISTICS +EUROPEANS AT HOKIANGA +CANNIBALISM + + +CHAPTER III. + +A MAORI VILLAGE +THE TAPU ON CROPS +MAORI ART + + +CHAPTER IV. + +HOKIANGA RIVER +MR. HOBBS' MISSION +THE TIMBER INDUSTRY + + +CHAPTER V. + +AN OVERLAND JOURNEY + + +CHAPTER VI. + +THE CHIEF PATUONE + + +CHAPTER VII. + +A PICTURESQUE SCENE + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +IN THE DENSE FOREST + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE KERIKERI MISSION +INHOSPITABLE RECEPTION + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE BAY OF ISLANDS + + +CHAPTER XI. + +MASSACRE OF THE BOYD + + +CHAPTER XII. + +KORORAREKA +A MIXED COMMUNITY +SHULITEA (KING GEORGE) + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +MAORI CONSERVATISM + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +A MISSION SETTLEMENT +THE MECHANIC MISSIONARY + + +CHAPTER XV. + +VISIT FROM HONGI +HONGI'S COAT OF MAIL + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +INTERVIEW WITH HONGI + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +A MAORI WELCOME + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +INLAND EXCURSIONS + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +MAORI WOMEN'S CAMP + + +CHAPTER XX. + +LOADING SPARS, HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +DEATH OF A CHIEF +TRADING WITH MAORIS + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +BRUTAL MURDER OF A WIFE + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +ANOTHER JOURNEY +INTERIOR OF THE COUNTRY + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +A WAR PARTY + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +HOSTILE DISPLAY +THE LAW OF MURU + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +A SEDUCTION AND ITS CONSEQUENCES + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +LAW OF RETALIATION + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +A WAR EXPEDITION +CANNIBALISM + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +MAORI SLAVERY + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +PIRACY BY CONVICTS + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +N.Z. CLIMATE +THE STARVATION CURE + + +CHAPTER XXXII. + +THE ART OF TATTOOING + + +CHAPTER XXXIII. + +TRIBAL GOVERNMENT +MAORI BELIEFS +THE CUSTOM OF TAPU +SUNDAY OBSERVANCE +MASSACRE OF FRENCH NAVIGATOR MARION AND PARTY + + +CHAPTER XXXIV. + +THE MAORIS' VIEW OF CHRISTIANITY + + +CHAPTER XXXV. + +HONGI'S THREATS +PREPARING FOR WAR + + +CHAPTER XXXVI. + +ARRIVAL OF A WARSHIP + + +CHAPTER XXXVII. + +WHALERS AND MISSIONARIES + + +CHAPTER XXXVIII. + +THREATENED WAR + + +CHAPTER XXXIX. + +CONSTRUCTION OF A PA + + +CHAPTER XL. + +A SHAM FIGHT + + +CHAPTER XLI. + +AN EXCITING INCIDENT +VISIT OF A GREAT TOHUNGA + + +CHAPTER XLII. + +VICTORIOUS WARRIORS +TREATMENT OF PRISONERS +BAKED HEADS + + +CHAPTER XLIII. + +VISITS OF WHALERS + + +CHAPTER XLIV. + +SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS + + +CHAPTER XLV. + +DEATH OF HONGI + + +CHAPTER XLVI. + +A TRIBAL CONFLICT +SHULITEA (KING GEORGE) KILLED + + +CHAPTER XLVII. + +EXCITEMENT AT KORORAREKA + + +CHAPTER XLVIII. + +EARLE'S FAREWELL +MISSIONARIES ALARMED + + +CHAPTER XLIX. + +JOURNEY TO HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER L. + +EUROPEAN DEFENCES +MR. HOBBS' MESSAGE OF PEACE + + +CHAPTER LI. + +MAORI SOCIAL CUSTOMS +EUROPEAN LIAISONS WITH MAORIS +MAORI MARRIAGES + + +CHAPTER LII. + +A MAORI TANGI + + +CHAPTER LIII. + +MAORI CHARACTERISTICS +ORIGIN OF OUTRAGES +FAMILY AFFECTION + + +CHAPTER LIV. + +TRADE OF HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER LV. + +A CREW MASSACRED + + +CHAPTER LVI. + +FAREWELL TO NEW ZEALAND +MAORIS IN SYDNEY + + +APPENDIX I. + +MASSACRE OF FURNEAUX'S BOAT'S CREW +CANNIBALISM + + +APPENDIX II. + +A TRIBAL FIGHT + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + +A Maori War Speech (Frontispiece) +Patuone, a Hokianga Chief +Mission Station, Kerikeri +Scene of Boyd Massacre +Maori War Expedition +Maori Method of Tattooing +Specimens of Tattooing +Whalers at Bay of Islands + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +VOYAGE FROM SYDNEY. + + +Having made up my mind to visit the island of New Zealand, and having +persuaded my friend Mr. Shand to accompany me, we made an arrangement for +the passage with Captain Kent, of the brig Governor Macquarie, and, +bidding adieu to our friends at Sydney, in a few hours (on October 20th, +1827) we were wafted into the great Pacific Ocean. + +There were several other passengers on board, who were proceeding to New +Zealand to form a Wesleyan missionary establishment at Hokianga. Amongst +these were a Mr. and Mrs. Hobbs, who were most enthusiastic in the cause. +They had formerly belonged to the same mission at Whangaroa, when a war +which took place amongst the natives totally destroyed their +establishment; and, after enduring great varieties of suffering, they +escaped, but lost everything they possessed, except the clothes they had +on. We had a very fine wind for nine days, and on the 29th we saw a +gannet, a sure sign we were within a hundred miles of land, for these +birds are never seen at a greater distance from it. True to our +anticipations, towards the afternoon the water became discoloured, and at +midnight we saw the land. + +This interesting island, of which we now got sight, was first discovered +by that eminent and enterprising Dutch navigator, Tasman, subsequently to +the discovery of Van Diemen's Land. His voyage from Batavia in 1642, +undertaken by order of the then Governor-General of Dutch India, Anthony +Van Diemen, was one of the most important and successful ever undertaken, +for it was during this voyage that New Holland was discovered, of which +Van Diemen's Land was then supposed to form a part, the extensive island +of New Zealand being supposed to form another portion.[1] + +The slight intercourse of the discoverers with the natives had so +calamitous a termination, and the exaggerated accounts it was then a kind +of fashion to give of savages, stigmatised the New Zealanders with such a +character for treachery and cruelty, that their island was not visited +again for upwards of a century, when the immortal Cook drew aside the +veil of error and obscurity from this unexplored land, and rescued the +character of its inhabitants from the ignominy which its original +discoverers, the Dutch, had thrown upon them. This immense tract of land +was imagined by Tasman to form but one island, and he most unaptly gave +it the name of New Zealand, from its great resemblance (as was stated) to +his own country.[2] + +In 1770 Cook discovered a strait of easy access and safe navigation, +cutting the island nearly in half, thus making two islands of what had +before been imagined but one. This strait bears his name, and is often +traversed by vessels from New South Wales returning home by way of Cape +Horn. + +In 1827 His Majesty's ship Warsprite passed through this strait in +company with the Volage, twenty-eight guns, being the first English line +of battleship which had ever made the attempt. A few years since, Captain +Stewart, commanding a colonial vessel out of Port Jackson, discovered +another strait, which cut off the extreme southern point, making it a +separate island that bears his name, and now almost every year our +sealers and whalers are making additional and useful discoveries along +its coasts. + +These islands lie between lat. 34° and 48°S. and long. 166° and 180°E. +The opening of the land to which we were now opposite, and which was our +destined port, the accurate eye of Cook had observed, but did not attempt +the entrance; and it is only about ten years since, when the two store +ships, the Dromedary and Coromandel, loaded with spars on the coast, that +a small vessel attending on those ships first crossed the bar; but +although they took soundings and laid down buoys, the commanders of the +large vessels were afraid of attempting the entrance, which proved their +good sense, for their great draught of water would have rendered the +undertaking more hazardous than the risk was worth. Yet during my +residence in this country two large vessels crossed the bar, and +recrossed it heavily laden, without the slightest accident--one the +Harmony, of London, 400 tons burden; the other the Elizabeth, of Sydney, +of nearly equal tonnage--but in proof that it is not always safe, a few +months after this, two schooners of extremely light draught were lost, +though they were both commanded by men who perfectly well knew the +channels through the bar. It was a singular circumstance that both +vessels had been built in New Zealand; one, the Herald, a small and +beautiful craft, built by and belonging to the Church missionaries, the +crew of which escaped, but the disastrous circumstances attending the +wreck of the other, called the Enterprise, I shall relate in their proper +place. + +The morning of the 30th was foggy and unfavourable, but it suddenly +cleared up, and exhibited the entrance of Hokianga right before us, and a +light breeze came to our aid to carry us in. The entrance to this river +is very remarkable, and can never be mistaken by mariners. On the north +side, for many miles, are hills of sand, white, bleak, and barren, ending +abruptly at the entrance of the river, which is about a quarter of a mile +across. Where the south head rises abrupt, craggy, and black, the land +all round is covered with verdure; thus, at the first glimpse of these +heads from the sea, one is white, the other black. + +The only difficulty attending the entrance (and, indeed, the only thing +which prevents Hokianga from being one of the finest harbours in the +world) is the bar. This lies two miles from the mouth of the river, its +head enveloped in breakers and foam, bidding defiance and threatening +destruction to all large ships which may attempt the passage. However, +we fortunately slipped over its sandy sides, undamaged, in three-fathom +water. + +After crossing the bar, no other obstacle lay in our way, and, floating +gradually into a beautiful river, we soon lost sight of the sea, and were +sailing up a spacious sheet of water, which became considerably wider +after entering it; while majestic hills rose on each side, covered with +verdure to their very summits. Looking up the river, we beheld various +headlands stretching into the water, and gradually contracting in width, +till they became fainter and fainter in the distance, and all was lost in +the azure of the horizon. The excitement occasioned by contemplating +these beautiful scenes was soon interrupted by the hurried approach of +canoes, and the extraordinary noises made by the natives who were in +them. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 1: The Dutch and Spanish had discovered N.E. Australia as early +as 1606, and the Dutch had on several occasions visited the N.W. and +South coasts of the Continent before the date of Tasman's voyage.] + +[Footnote 2: The name given by Tasman was Staten Landt. The name New +Zealand was bestowed in 1643 by the States-General of the United +Provinces.] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES. + + +As the arrival of a ship is always a profitable occurrence, great +exertions are made to be the first on board. There were several canoes +pulling towards us, and from them a number of muskets were fired, a +compliment we returned with our swivels; one of the canoes soon came +alongside, and an old chief came on board, who rubbed noses with Captain +Kent, whom he recognised as an old acquaintance; he then went round and +shook hands with all the strangers, after which he squatted himself down +upon the deck, seeming very much to enjoy the triumph of being the first +on board. But others very soon coming up with us, our decks were crowded +with them, some boarding us at the gangway, others climbing up the chains +and bows, and finding entrances where they could. All were in perfect +good humour, and pleasure beamed in all their countenances. + +I had heard a great deal respecting the splendid race of men I was going +to visit, and the few specimens I had occasionally met with at Sydney so +much pleased me, that I was extremely anxious to see a number of them +together, to judge whether (as a nation) they were finer in their +proportions than the English, or whether it was mere accident that +brought some of their tallest and finest proportioned men before me. + +I examined these savages, as they crowded round our decks, with the +critical eye of an artist; they were generally taller and larger men +than ourselves; those of middle height were broad-chested and muscular, +and their limbs as sinewy as though they had been occupied all their +lives in laborious employments. Their colour is lighter than that of the +American Indian, their features small and regular, their hair is in a +profusion of beautiful curls, whereas that of the Indian is straight and +lank. The disposition of the New Zealander appears to be full of fun and +gaiety, while the Indian is dull, shy, and suspicious. + +I have known Indians in America from the north to the south--the +miserable, idiotic Botecooda of Brazil, the fierce warrior of Canada, and +the gentle and civilised Peruvian, yet in their features and complexions +they are all much alike. I observed their statures altered with their +different latitudes; the Chilians and the Canadians being nearly the +same, in figure tall, thin, and active, their climate being nearly the +same, although at the two extremes of America; while those living between +the equinoxes are short, fat, and lazy. I am persuaded that these South +Sea Islanders, though so nearly of the same complexion, still are not of +the same race, laziness being the characteristic of the American Indian +from north to south, while the New Zealanders are laborious in the +extreme, as their astonishing and minute carvings prove. The moment the +Indian tasted intoxicating spirits his valour left him, he became an +idiot and a tool in the hands of the white man. Here they have the utmost +aversion to every kind of "wine or strong drink," and very often severely +take us to task for indulging in such an extraordinary and debasing +propensity, or, as they call it, "of making ourselves mad;" but both +nations are equally fond of tobacco. + +The first thing which struck me forcibly was, that each of these savages +was armed with a good musket, and most of them had also a cartouch box +buckled round their waists, filled with ball cartridges, and those who +had fired their pieces from the canoes carefully cleaned the pans, +covered the locks over with a piece of dry rag, and put them in a secure +place in their canoes. Every person who has read Captain Cook's account +of the natives of New Zealand would be astonished at the change which has +taken place since his time, when the firing of a single musket would have +terrified a whole village. + +As we sailed up the river very slowly, the throng of savages increased to +such a degree that we could scarcely move, and, to add to our confusion, +they gave us "a dance of welcome," standing on one spot, and stamping so +furiously that I really feared they would have stove in the decks, which +our lady passengers were obliged to leave, as when the dance began each +man proceeded to strip himself naked, a custom indispensable among +themselves. + +We came to an anchor off a native village called Pakanae, where two +chiefs of consequence came on board, who soon cleared our decks of a +considerable number. We paid great attention to these chiefs, admitting +them into the cabin, etc., and it had the effect of lessening the noise, +and bringing about some kind of order amongst those who still continued +on deck. The names of these chiefs were Moetara and Akaeigh, and they +were the heads of the village opposite to which we had anchored. They +were well known to our captain, who spoke their language. They were +accustomed to the society of Europeans, also to transact business with +them; and as they were flax, timber, and hog merchants, they and the +captain talked over the state of the markets during the evening. They +were clothed in mats, called Kaka-hoos. The ladies joined our party at +supper, and we spent a very cheerful time with our savage visitors, who +both behaved in as polite and respectful a manner as the best educated +gentlemen could have done; their pleasing manners so ingratiated them +into the good opinion of the ladies, that they all declared "they would +be really very handsome men if their faces were not tattooed." + +The next day we received a visit from Mr. and Mrs. Butler, English +people, who had taken up their residence here for the purpose of trading, +and we returned with them on shore, taking our female passengers with us, +and leaving them in charge of Mrs. Butler. I determined to stroll through +the village, which is, in fact, a collection of rude huts, huddled +together without system or regularity. Dock leaves and weeds of every +description were growing luxuriantly all round them, and in many places +actually overtopping the houses, few being more than four feet high, with +a doorway about two feet. Scarcely any of them were inhabited, as at this +season of the year the greater part of the population prefer living in +the open air to remaining in their small, smoky ovens of houses. + +I had not rambled far before I witnessed a scene which forcibly reminded +me of the savage country in which I then was, and the great alteration of +character and customs a few days' sail will make. The sight to me so +appalling was that of the remains of a human body which had been roasted, +and a number of hogs and dogs were snarling and feasting upon it! I was +more shocked than surprised, for I had been informed of the character of +the New Zealanders long before my arrival amongst them; still, the +coming suddenly and unexpectedly upon a sight like this completely +sickened me of rambling, at least for that day, and I hastened back to +Mr. Butler's, eager to inquire into the particulars of the horrid +catastrophe. + +That gentleman informed me that the night of the arrival of our ship, a +chief had set one of his kookies (or slaves) to watch a piece of ground +planted with the kumara, or sweet potato, in order to prevent the hogs +committing depredations upon it. The poor lad, delighted with the +appearance of our vessel, was more intent upon observing her come to an +anchor than upon guarding his master's property, and suffered the hogs to +ramble into the plantation, where they soon made dreadful havoc. In the +midst of this trespass and neglect of orders his master arrived. The +result was certain; he instantly killed the unfortunate boy with a blow +on the head from his stone hatchet, then ordered a fire to be made, and +the body to be dragged to it, where it was roasted and consumed. + +It was now time to return on board, and we walked down to the beach for +that purpose, but it was quite low water, and the boat was full two +hundred feet off. She lay at the end of a long, slimy, muddy flat, and +while we were debating how we should manage to get to her, the native +chiefs took up the females in their arms, as though they were children, +and, in spite of all their blushes and remonstrances, carried them to the +boat and placed them safely in it, each seeming to enjoy the task. They +then returned and gave us a passage, walking as easily with us upon their +backs as if we had been no heavier than so many muskets. We took care not +to shock the feelings of the females by letting them know the tragedy so +lately acted in the village, or horrify them by telling them that one of +their carriers was the murderer! It would have been difficult to have +made them believe that such a noble-looking and good-natured fellow had +so lately imbrued his hands in the blood of a fellow creature. + +We had now been lying here two days, and the curiosity of the people did +not diminish, nor were our visitors less numerous. Parties were hourly +coming up and down the river to pay their respects to our captain, and +the report of there being numerous passengers on board greatly increased +their desire to hold intercourse with us. They all appeared anxious to +make themselves useful, some chopping wood for our cook, others assisting +the steward, in order to get what might be left on the plates, others +brought small presents of fish; in fact, all availed themselves of any +excuse to get on board; yet, notwithstanding the crowd, and the confusion +attending their movements, there was scarcely any thieving amongst them. +They have seen the detestation that theft is held in by Europeans, and +the injury it does to trade, and have, in consequence, nearly left it +off. None but the meanest slaves will now practise it, and they do so at +the risk of their lives; for, if caught in the act, and the charge is +proved against them, their heads are cut off! + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +A RAMBLE ASHORE. + + +On November 3rd we visited Pakanae, a village lying round the base of a +large conical hill, about three hundred feet high, with a fortification +on the top, which gives it its name, pa signifying in their language a +fortified place. Behind it lies a swamp, which is covered at high water, +and which adds greatly to its security; for the unsettled and war-like +spirit of the natives renders it absolutely necessary that they always +should have a place of strength near at hand to retreat to, as they never +know how suddenly their enemies may make an attack upon them. To the +right of this swamp is a beautiful valley, in a very high state of +cultivation. At the time I stood viewing it from the summit of the hill, +I was charmed with the scene of industry and bustle it presented, all the +inhabitants of the village having gone forth to plant their potatoes, +kumaras, and Indian corn. In the rear, and forming a fine, bold +background, is an immense chain of high and rugged hills, covered to +their summits with thick forests, and forming, as it were, a natural +barrier and protection to this smiling and fruitful valley, while from +their wooded sides issue innumerable small streams of clear water, which, +meeting at the base, form beautiful rivulets, and after meandering +through the valley, and serving all the purposes of irrigation, they +empty themselves into the Hokianga river. + +Standing on the spot from which I have described the above prospect, I +felt fully convinced of the frugality and industry of these savages. The +regularity of their plantations, and the order with which they carry on +their various works, differ greatly from most of their brethren in the +South Seas, as here the chiefs and their families set the example of +labour; and when that is the case, none can refuse to toil. Round the +village of Pakanae, at one glance is to be seen above 200 acres of +cultivated land, and that not slightly turned up, but well worked and +cleared; and when the badness of their tools is considered, together with +their limited knowledge of agriculture, their persevering industry I look +upon as truly astonishing. + +The New Zealanders have established here a wise custom, which prevents a +great deal of waste and confusion, and generally preserves to the planter +a good crop, in return for the trouble of sowing; namely, as soon as the +ground is finished, and the seed sown, it is _tabooed,_ that, is rendered +sacred, by men appointed for that service, and it is death to trample +over or disturb any part of this consecrated ground. The wisdom and +utility of this regulation must be obvious to every one. But, however +useful this taboo system is to the natives, it is a great inconvenience +to a stranger who is rambling over the country, for if he does not use +the greatest caution, and procure a guide, he may get himself into a +serious dilemma before his rambles be over, which had nearly been the +case with our party this day. We were ascending a hill, for the purpose +of inspecting a New Zealand fortification on the summit, when a little +boy joined our party, either out of curiosity, or in hopes of getting a +fish-hook from us--a thing the natives are continually asking for; but as +we had a man with us who spoke the language fluently, we did not much +regard the boy's guidance, though to us it speedily became of great +importance. We were taking a short cut, to make a quick ascent to the top +of the hill, when the little fellow uttered a cry of horror. Our +interpreter asked him what he meant, when he pointed his finger forward, +and told him to look, for the ground was tabooed. We did as he desired +us, but beheld nothing particular, till he showed us, in one of the +trees, among the branches, a large bunch of something, but we could not +make out what it was. This, he told us, was the body of a chief, then +undergoing the process of decomposition, previous to interment, which +process is witnessed by men appointed for that purpose, who alone are +permitted to approach the spot. The ground all round is tabooed, so that, +had it not been for the interference of our young guide, we should +certainly have been placed in a most distressing situation; and it is a +question if our ignorance of their customs would have been considered a +sufficient excuse for our offence. + +The top of this hill was level and square, and was capable of containing +several hundred warriors. It was cut into slopes all round, and fortified +by stockades in every direction, which rendered it impregnable. The +natives assured me its strength had been often tried. The famous warrior +Hongi had attacked it several times, but had always been defeated with +great loss. After inspecting this fortification, which excited our +admiration, we proceeded through the village at the bottom of the hill. +Nearly the whole of the inhabitants were out working in the fields. We +entered several of their habitations, and found all their property +exposed and unguarded. Even their muskets and powder, which they prize +above everything, were open to our inspection, so little idea of robbery +have they amongst themselves. But as there are many hogs and dogs roaming +at large through their villages, they are very careful to fence their +dwellings round with wicker work, to preserve them from the depredations +of these animals; and as the houses are extremely low, they have very +much the appearance of bird cages or rabbit hutches. Their storehouses +are generally placed upon poles, a few feet from the ground, and tabooed +or consecrated. Great taste and ingenuity are displayed in carving and +ornamenting these depositories. I made drawings from several of them, +which were entirely covered with carving; and some good attempts at +groups of figures, as large as life, plainly showed the dawning of the +art of sculpture amongst them. Many of the attempts of the New Zealanders +in that art are quite as good, if not better, than various specimens I +have seen of the first efforts of the early Egyptians. + +Painting and sculpture are both arts greatly admired by these rude +people. Every house of consequence is ornamented and embellished, and +their canoes have the most minute and elaborate workmanship bestowed upon +them. + +Their food is always eaten out of little baskets, rudely woven of green +flax; and as they generally leave some for their next meal, they hang +these baskets on sticks or props, till they are ready to eat again. Thus +a village presents a very singular appearance, as it is stuck full of +sticks, with various kinds of baskets hanging from them. This plan, +however, is the most rational that could be adopted, as none of their +eatables can be left on the ground, or they would become the prey of the +hogs and dogs. + +In the course of our long ramble we noticed many pretty little huts, some +having neat gardens all round them, planted with fruits and corn. One +house which we saw was built by a chief who had made several voyages to +Port Jackson, and it was really a very comfortable dwelling. It had a +high door, which we could enter without stooping, and in a separate room +was constructed a bed, after the pattern of one on ship-board. He had +likewise a large sea-chest in his house, the key of which (highly +polished) was hung round his neck as an ornament. In the course of our +walk we came to a spot on which a group of old people were sitting +sunning themselves, and they immediately all rose to welcome us. I +remarked one amongst them who seemed, from his silvery locks and feeble +limbs, to be very old. I asked him, among other questions, whether he +remembered Captain Cook. He said he did not, but well recollected Captain +Furneaux, and was one of the party which cut off and massacred his boat's +crew; and from other information which I received I believe his assertion +to have been correct.[3] + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 3: Captain Furneaux's account of this massacre is printed in +the Appendix.] + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE HOKIANGA RIVER EIGHTY YEARS AGO. + + +As our missionary passengers had by this time fixed upon the spot where +they intended to establish their settlement, and it being several miles +up the river, we got under weigh to proceed thither. The captain's +agreement being to that effect, we proceeded with the first fair wind, +about twenty miles up the stream, which was as far as we could with +safety take the vessel. The shores on each side this noble river are +composed of hills gradually rising behind each other, most of them +covered with woods to the water's edge. Not a vestige of a habitation is +to be seen, and if it had not been for the occasional sight of a canoe, +we might have imagined the country to be totally uninhabited. Opposite a +small island, or, rather, sand-bank, the vessel grounded, and had to +remain there till the next tide floated her off. It was a curious and +interesting spot, being a native pa and depot, and was entirely covered +with storehouses for provisions and ammunition. The centre was so +contrived that all assailants might be cut off before they could effect a +landing; and we were all much gratified by the judgment and forethought +displayed in this little military work. The next morning we got off, but +could not proceed far, as the shoals were becoming so numerous as to +render the navigation dangerous. But here we beheld, with both surprise +and satisfaction, a most unexpected sight, namely, a snug little colony +of our own countrymen, comfortably settled and usefully employed in this +savage and unexplored country. Some enterprising merchants of Port +Jackson have established here a dockyard and a number of sawpits. Several +vessels have been laden with timber and spars; one vessel has been built, +launched, and sent to sea from this spot; and another of a hundred and +fifty tons burthen was then upon the stocks! + +On landing at this establishment at Te Horeke, or, as the Englishmen have +called it, "Deptford," I was greatly delighted with the appearance of +order, bustle, and industry it presented. Here were storehouses, +dwelling-houses, and various offices for the mechanics; and every +department seemed as well filled as it could have been in a civilised +country. To me the most interesting circumstance was to notice the great +delight of the natives, and the pleasure they seemed to take in observing +the progress of the various works. All were officious to "lend a hand," +and each seemed eager to be employed. This feeling corresponds with my +idea of the best method of civilising a savage. Nothing can more +completely show the importance of the useful arts than a dockyard. In it +are practised nearly all the mechanical trades; and these present to the +busy enquiring mind of a New Zealander a practical encyclopaedia of +knowledge. When he sees the combined exertions of the smith and carpenter +create so huge a fabric as a ship, his mind is filled with wonder and +delight; and when he witnesses the moulding of iron at the anvil, it +excites his astonishment and emulation. + +The people of the dockyard informed me that, although it was constantly +crowded with natives, scarcely anything had ever been stolen, and all the +chiefs in the neighbourhood took so great an interest in the work that +any annoyance offered to those employed would immediately be revenged as +a personal affront. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +JOURNEY OVERLAND TO BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +Here we left the brig to unload her cargo; my friend Shand and myself +having determined to proceed overland to the Bay of Islands. An +intelligent chief, hearing of our intention, offered to accompany us +himself, and lent us two of his kookies to carry our baggage. We accepted +the chieftain's offer, and several other natives joined the party to bear +us company. + +November 7.--We all embarked in a canoe, in order to reach the head of +the river before we began our pedestrian tour; and, after paddling about +eight or nine miles further up, where the river became exceedingly +narrow, we came to another English settlement. This consisted of a party +of men who had come out in the Rosanna, the vessel employed by the New +Zealand Company. When all ideas of settling were totally abandoned by the +officers sent out for that purpose, these men chose rather to remain by +themselves than to return home; and we found them busily employed in +cutting timber, sawing planks, and making oars for the Sydney market. How +far they may prove successful, time only can develop; but as these +enterprising men had only their own industry to assist them, it could not +be expected that their establishment could bear a comparison with the one +at Te Horeke, which is supported by several of the most wealthy +merchants of New South Wales. + +As the river became narrower, the habitations of the natives were more +numerous. The chief of this district (whose name is Patuone) has a +splendid village very near the carpenters' establishment we have just +described. He had taken these industrious men under his especial +protection, and seemed very proud of having a settlement of that kind in +his territories, as it gave him power and consequence among all the +neighbouring chiefs, from the trade he carried on by means of their +exertions. + +Patuone had likewise induced the Wesleyan missionaries to settle upon his +land, about a mile below; so that the head of this river assumed quite +the appearance of a civilised colony. + +Our party now disembarked. We landed in a dense forest, which reached to +the water's edge; and our guides and slaves began to divide the loads +each was to carry on his back. Several joined us from the two English +stations on the river, and we then amounted to a very large party; all in +high spirits, and anxious to proceed on our journey. When our natives had +distributed the luggage, they loaded themselves, which they did with both +skill and quickness; for a New Zealander is never at a loss for cords or +ropes. Their plan is to gather a few handfuls of flax, which they soon +twist into a very good substitute: with this material they formed slings, +with which they dexterously fastened our moveables on their backs, and +set off at a good trot, calling out to us to follow them. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +MEETING WITH THE CHIEF PATUONE. + + +We travelled through a wood so thick that the light of heaven could not +penetrate the trees that composed it. They were so large and so close +together that in many places we had some difficulty to squeeze ourselves +through them. To add to our perplexities, innumerable streams intersected +this forest, which always brought us Europeans to a complete standstill. +The only bridges which the natives ever think of making are formed by +cutting down a tree, and letting it fall across; and over these our +bare-legged attendants, loaded as they were, scrambled with all the +agility of cats or monkeys; but it was not so with us: for several times +they seated one of us on the top of their load, and carried him over. The +chief, who accompanied us, made it his particular business to see me safe +through every difficulty, and many times he carried me himself over such +places as I dared scarcely venture to look down upon. + +In the midst of this wood we met the chief of this district, Patuone, +who, together with all his family, were employed in planting a small, +cleared patch of land. He appeared highly delighted at beholding +strangers; and all his wives came from their occupations to welcome us. +He told us that, a very few miles farther on, we should come to a village +belonging to him, where his eldest son was residing, and that we must +there pass the night. + +[Illustration: Patuone, a Notable Hokianga Chief.] + +We thanked him for the invitation, rubbed noses with him (their token of +friendship), and parted. + +Soon after parting with Patuone, we fell in with a most beautiful bull, +cow, and calf. I was amazed at seeing such fine animals in this country; +but my companions soon cleared up the mystery by informing me that they +were gifts from the missionaries, who had orders from Home to distribute +these useful animals amongst such chiefs as they thought would take care +of them: a wise and beneficial measure. These animals were tabooed, +consequently they could ramble wherever they found food most to their +liking. About dusk we arrived at the village Patuone had described to us. +We were most happy to see it, as we were heartily tired, and dripping wet +from a recent and heavy shower. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +A MAORI VILLAGE. + + +The village was situated on the side of a small, picturesque stream, one +of the branches of the Hokianga, but continued droughts had at this time +reduced it to a trifling brook. From its lofty banks, and the large trees +lying athwart it, we conjectured that during heavy rains it must be a +mighty flood. A long straggling collection of huts composed the village: +a great deal of land in its vicinity was cleared and planted, which +doubtless was the ostensible object of Patuone's people being here. As +the village lay upon the opposite shore from that on which we arrived, we +sat some time under the shelter of a large tree, to contemplate its +appearance, and to give time to arrange our party for passing the stream, +and also for my making a sketch. The red glare of the setting sun, just +touching the top of every object, beautifully illuminated the landscape; +and its rays bursting through the black woods in the background, gave the +woods an appearance of being on fire; while a beautiful rainbow, thrown +across the sky, tinged the scene with a fairy-land effect. + +As soon as they perceived us from the opposite shore, a loud shout of +welcome was raised, and all the inhabitants came out to meet us. They +carried us over the stream, conducted us to their huts, and then sat down +to gaze at and admire us. + +As we were very hungry after our fatiguing walk, we soon unpacked our +baggage, and in so doing made an unavoidable display of many valuable and +glittering objects, which roused the attention of our savage spectators, +and caused them, on the unfolding of every fresh object, to make loud and +long exclamations of wonder and amazement. As I was then "a stranger in +their land," and unaccustomed to their peculiarities, I felt a little +alarmed at their shouts; but, on a longer acquaintance with them, I found +my fears had been groundless. + +Here we saw the son of Patuone, accompanied by thirty or forty young +savages, sitting or lying all round us. All were exceedingly handsome, +notwithstanding the wildness of their appearance and the ferocity of +their looks. Let the reader picture to himself this savage group, +handling everything they saw, each one armed with a musket, loaded with +ball, a cartouch-box buckled round his waist, and a stone patoo-patoo, or +hatchet, in his hand, while human bones were hung round each neck by way +of ornament; let the scene and situation be taken into consideration, and +he will acknowledge it was calculated to make the young traveller wish +himself safe at home; but, when I suspected, I wronged them; for after +admiring everything we had brought with us (more especially our +fowling-pieces, which were very beautiful ones), they begged a little +tobacco, then retired to a distance from the hut which had been prepared +for our reception, and left us to take our supper uninterrupted; after +which they placed all our baggage in the hut, that we might be assured of +its safety. + +It proved a rainy, miserable night; and we were a large party, crowded +into a small, smoky hut, with a fire lighted in the middle; as, after +our supper, the natives, in order to have as much of our company as +possible, crowded it till it was literally crammed. However annoying this +might be, still I was recompensed by the novelty and picturesque +appearance of the scene. Salvator Rosa could not have conceived a finer +study of the horrible. A dozen men, of the largest and most athletic +forms, their cakahoos (or mat-dresses) laid aside, and their huge limbs +exposed to the red glare of the fire; their faces rendered hideous by +being tattooed all over, showing by the firelight quite a bright blue; +their eyes, which are remarkable for their fierce expression, all fixed +upon us, but with a look of good temper, co-mingled with intense +curiosity. All my fears had by this time subsided, and, being master of +myself, I had leisure to study and enjoy the scene; we smoked a social +pipe with them (for they are all immoderately fond of tobacco), and I +then stretched myself down to sleep amidst all their chattering and +smoke. + +But all my attempts at slumber were fruitless. I underwent a simultaneous +attack of vermin of all descriptions; fleas, mosquitoes, and sand-flies, +which, beside their depredations on my person, made such a buzzing noise, +that even the chattering of the natives could not drown it, or the smoke +from the fire or pipes drive them away. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +TOILSOME JOURNEY THROUGH THE FOREST. + + +Next morning, at daybreak, we took leave of our hosts, and proceeded on +our journey; we had eight miles more of this thick forest to scramble +through, and this part we found considerably worse than that we had +traversed yesterday. The roots of trees covered the path in all +directions, rendering it necessary to watch every step we took, in order +to prevent being thrown down; the supple-jacks, suspended and twining +from tree to tree, making in many places a complete net-work; and while +we were toiling with the greatest difficulty through this miserable road, +our natives were jogging on as comfortably as possible: use had so +completely accustomed them to it, that they sprung over the roots, and +dived under the supple-jacks and branches, with perfect ease, while we +were panting after them in vain. The whole way was mountainous. The +climbing up, and then descending, was truly frightful; not a gleam of sky +was to be seen, all was a mass of gigantic trees, straight and lofty, +their wide spreading branches mingling overhead, and producing throughout +the forest an endless darkness and unbroken gloom. + +After three or four hours of laborious struggling, we emerged from the +wood, and found ourselves upon an extensive plain, which, as far as the +eye could reach, appeared covered with fern. A small path lay before us, +and this was our road. The New Zealanders always travel on foot, one +after the other, or in Indian file. Their pathways are not more than a +foot wide, which to a European is most painful; but as the natives +invariably walk with the feet turned in, or pigeon-toed, they feel no +inconvenience from the narrowness. When a traveller is once on the path, +it is impossible for him to go astray. No other animal, except man, ever +traverses this country, and _his_ track cannot be mistaken, since none +ever deviate from the beaten footpath, which was in consequence, in some +places (where the soil was light), worn so deep as to resemble a gutter +more than a road. We proceeded for many miles in this unsocial manner; +unsocial, for it precludes all conversation. Our natives occasionally +gave us a song, or, rather, dirge, in which they all joined chorus. +Having at length attained the summit of a hill, we beheld the Bay of +Islands, stretching out in the distance; and at sunset we arrived at the +Kerikeri river, where there is a Church-missionary settlement. + +[Illustration: Mission Station, Kerikeri.] + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE MISSIONARY SETTLEMENT AT KERIKERI. + + +We had travelled all day through a country in which every object we saw +was of a character that reminded us forcibly of the savage community we +were with. Occasionally we met groups of naked men, trotting along under +immense loads, and screaming their barbarous songs of recognition; +sometimes we beheld an uncouthly carved figure, daubed over with red +ochre, and fixed in the ground, to give notice that one side of the road +was tabooed. An extraordinary contrast was now presented to our view, for +we came suddenly in front of a complete little English village. Wreaths +of white smoke were rising from the chimneys, of neat weather-boarded +houses. The glazed windows reflected the brilliant glow from the rays of +the setting sun, while herds of fat cattle were winding down the hills, +lowing as they leisurely bent their steps toward the farm-yard. It is +impossible for me to describe what I felt on contemplating a scene so +similar to those I had left behind me. + +According to the custom of this country, we fired our muskets, to warn +the inhabitants of the settlement of our approach. We arranged our +dresses in the best order we could, and proceeded towards the village. As +the report of our guns had been heard, groups of nondescripts came +running out to meet us. I could scarcely tell to what order of beings +they belonged; but on their near approach, I found them to be the New +Zealand youths, who were settled with the missionaries. They were habited +in the most uncouth dresses imaginable. These pious men, certainly, have +no taste for the picturesque; they had obscured the finest human forms +under a seaman's huge clothing. Boys not more than fifteen wore jackets +reaching to their knees, and buttoned up to the throat with great black +horn buttons, a coarse checked shirt, the collar of which spread half-way +over their face, their luxuriant, beautiful hair was cut close off, and +each head was crammed into a close Scotch bonnet! + +These half-converted, or, rather, half-_covered_, youths, after rubbing +noses, and chattering with our guides, conducted us to the dwellings of +their masters. As I had a letter of introduction from one of their own +body, I felt not the slightest doubt of a kind reception; so we proceeded +with confidence. We were ushered into a house, all cleanliness and +comfort, all order, silence, and unsociability. After presenting my +letter to a grave-looking personage, it had to undergo a private +inspection in an adjoining room, and the result was an invitation "to +stay and take a cup of tea!" All that an abundant farm and excellent +grocer in England could supply were soon before us. Each person of the +mission, as he appeared during our repast, was called aside, and I could +hear my own letter read and discussed by them. I could not help thinking +(within myself) whether this was a way to receive a countryman at the +Antipodes! No smile beamed upon their countenance; there were no +inquiries after news; in short, there was no touch of human sympathy, +such as we "of the world" feel at receiving an Englishman under our roof +in such a savage country as this! + +The chubby children who peeped at us from all corners, and the very +hearty appearance of their parents, plainly evidenced that theirs was an +excellent and thriving trade. We had a cold invitation to stay all night; +but this the number of our party entirely precluded; so they lent us +their boat to convey us to the Bay of Islands, a distance of about +twenty-five miles. + +As the night proved dark and stormy, and as our boat was crowded with +natives, our passage down the Kerikeri river became both disagreeable and +dangerous. The river being filled with rocks, some under, and others just +above the water, we were obliged to keep a good look-out. After +experiencing many alarms, we arrived safely at Kororareka beach about +midnight, where an Englishman of the name of Johnstone gave us a shelter +in his hut. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +In the morning we beheld two vessels at anchor in the harbour. The +Indian, whaler, of London, and the East India Company's ship Research; +which latter ship had been cruising in search of the wreck of the vessels +under the command of La Perouse, and had completely elucidated the +circumstances relating to that event. The Bay of Islands is surrounded by +lofty and picturesque hills, and is secured from all winds. It is full of +lovely coves, and a safe anchorage is to be found nearly all over it; +added to this, a number of navigable rivers are for ever emptying +themselves into the Bay, which is spotted with innumerable romantic +islands all covered with perpetual verdure. + +It is with peculiar interest that we look upon the spot where the +illustrious Cook cast anchor after his discovery of this Bay. Some +unhappy quarrels with the natives occasioned much blood to be shed on +both sides, and for a long time caused this island to be looked upon with +horror, and avoided by all Europeans. It was the courage and enterprise +of the crews of our South Sea Whalers who exhibited these interesting +islanders in their true character, and proved to the world that it was +quite as safe to anchor in the Bay of Islands as in the harbour of Port +Jackson. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +THE MASSACRE OF THE "BOYD." + + +Since the time of Cook, and other circumnavigators of that period, the +character of these people has undergone a thorough change. Then it was +necessary when a ship anchored, that the boarding nettings should be up, +and all the arms ready for immediate use. The principal object the chiefs +had in view seemed to be to lull the commanders into a fatal security, +then to rush upon them, seize their vessel, and murder all the crew! Too +often had they succeeded, and as often have they paid most dearly for +their treachery and cruelty. In the case of the ship Boyd, though they +attained their object, they were as completely punished for their +perfidy. From their ignorance of the nature of powder, and the use of a +magazine, they blew up the ship, and vast numbers of the natives were +destroyed. Besides this calamity, they brought down upon themselves the +vengeance of every vessel that visited these shores for a long period +afterwards. As the circumstances may not be generally known, Mr. Berry's +letter, relating the particulars of that melancholy, yet interesting +event, is here inserted:-- + + "Ship, City of Edinburgh, + "Lima, Oct. 20, 1810. + Sir,-- + + I am very sorry to have the painful task of introducing myself to + you, with an account of the loss of your ship Boyd, Captain + Thompson. + + Towards the end of last year I was employed in the Bay of + Islands, New Zealand, in procuring a cargo of spars for the Cape + of Good Hope. About the middle of December the natives brought me + an account of a ship's being taken at Whangaroa, a harbour about + fifty miles to the N.W. At first we were disposed to doubt the + truth of this report, but it every day became more probable, from + the variety of circumstances they informed us of; and which were + so connected as appeared impossible for them to invent. + Accordingly, about the end of the month, when we had finished our + cargo, although it was a business of some danger, I determined to + go round. + + "I set out with three armed boats: we experienced very bad + weather, and after a narrow escape were glad to return to the + ship. As we arrived in a most miserable condition, I had then + relinquished all idea of the enterprise; but having recruited my + strength and spirits, I was shocked at the idea of leaving any of + my countrymen in the hands of savages, and determined to make a + second attempt. We had this time better weather, and reached the + harbour without any difficulty. Whangaroa is formed as + follows:--First, a large outer bay, with an island at its + entrance; in the bottom of this bay is seen a narrow opening, + which appears terminated at the distance of a quarter of a mile; + but, upon entering it, it is seen to expand into two large + basins, at least as secure as any of the docks on the banks of + the Thames, and capable of containing (I think) the whole British + navy. We found the wreck of the Boyd in shoal water, at the top + of the harbour, a most melancholy picture of wanton mischief. The + natives had cut her cables, and towed her up the harbour till she + had grounded, and then set her on fire, and burnt her to the + water's edge. In her hold were seen the remains of her + cargo--coals, salted seal skins, and planks. Her guns, iron, + standards, etc., were lying on the top, having fallen in when her + decks were consumed. + + "The cargo must have been very valuable; but it appears that the + captain, anxious to make a better voyage, had come to that port + for the purpose of filling up with spars for the Cape of Good + Hope. + + "Not to tire you with the minutia of the business, I recovered + from the natives a woman, two children, and a boy of the name of + Davies, one of your apprentices, who were the only survivors. I + found also the accompanying papers, which, I hope, may prove of + service to you. I did all this by gentle measures, and you will + admit that bloodshed and revenge would have answered no good + purpose. The ship was taken the third morning after her arrival. + The captain had been rather too hasty in resenting some slight + theft. Early in the morning the ship was surrounded by a great + number of canoes, and many natives gradually insinuated + themselves on board. Tippahee, a chief of the Bay of Islands, and + who had been twice at Port Jackson, also arrived; he went into + the cabin, and, after paying his respects to the captain, begged + a little bread for his men; but the captain received him rather + slightingly, and desired him to go away, and not trouble him, as + he was busy. + + "The proud old savage (who had been a constant guest at the + Governor's table at Port Jackson) was highly offended at this + treatment, immediately left the cabin, and, after stamping a few + minutes on the deck, went into his canoe. After breakfast the + captain went on shore with four hands, and no other arms but his + fowling-piece. From the account of the savages, as soon as he + landed they rushed upon him; he had only time to fire his piece, + and it killed a child. As soon as the captain left the ship, + Tippahee (who remained alongside in his canoe) came again on + board. A number of sailors were repairing sails upon the quarter + deck, and the remainder were carelessly dispersed about, and + fifty of the natives were sitting on the deck. In a moment they + all started up, and each knocked his man on the head: a few ran + wounded below, and four or five escaped up the rigging, and in a + few seconds the savages had complete possession of the ship. The + boy Davies escaped into the hold, where he lay concealed for + several days, till they were fairly glutted with human blood, + when they spared his life. The woman says she was discovered by + an old savage, and that she moved him by her tears and embraces; + that he (being a subordinate chief) carried her to Tippahee, who + allowed him to spare her life. She says, that at this time the + deck was covered with human bodies, which they were employed in + cutting up; after which they exhibited a most horrid dance and + song in honour of their victory, and concluded by a hymn of + gratitude to their god. + + "Tippahee now took the speaking trumpet, and hailing the poor + wretches at the mast-head, told them that he was now captain, + and that they must in future obey his commands. He then ordered + them to unbend the sails, they readily complied; but when he + ordered them to come down they hesitated, but he enforced prompt + obedience by threatening to cut away the masts. When they came + down he received them with much civility, and told them he would + take care of them; he immediately ordered them into a canoe, and + sent them on shore. A few minutes after this the woman went on + shore with her deliverer. The first object that struck her view + was the dead bodies of these men, lying naked on the beach. As + soon as she landed a number of men started up, and marched + towards her with their patoo-patoos. A number of women ran + screaming betwixt them, covered her with their clothes, and by + tears and entreaties saved her life. + + "The horrid feasting on human flesh which followed would be too + shocking for description. The second mate begged his life at the + time of the general massacre; they spared him for a fortnight, + and then killed and eat him. I think if the captain had received + Tippahee with a little more civility, that he would have informed + him of his danger, and saved the ship; but that from being + treated in the manner I have mentioned, he entered into the plot + along with the others. + + "I assure you it has been a most unpleasant thing for me to write + about, and I could only have been induced to do it from a sense + of duty, and a desire to give you all the information in my + power, which I suppose may be of some use. + + "I am, Sir, + "Your obedient humble servant, + "ALEXANDER BERRY." + +Considering Mr. Berry's limited acquaintance with these islanders, and +the horror of the scene before him, his is a good and an impartial +account; but facts which have been obtained subsequently have exonerated +the natives to a certain extent. By repeated conversations I have held +with several chiefs who were engaged in this dreadful affair, and from +information I procured at Sydney, I have no doubt but that the Captain +himself was the most in fault. + +[Illustration: Whangaroa, Scene of the "Boyd" Massacre.] + +He was commissioned by the Government of New South Wales to land a native +chief named Philip at New Zealand, whom he subjected to a cruel and +impolitic punishment. This man, smarting from his stripes, and burning +with a desire to revenge his dishonourable treatment, excited all his +friends to the commission of that bloody massacre. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +THE FIRST SETTLEMENT AT KORORAREKA. + + +The tragic fate of the Boyd's crew is now fast sinking into oblivion; +and, like the islanders of Hawaii, after the murder of Cook, they seem to +wish to obliterate the remembrance of their disgraceful conduct by a kind +and friendly intercourse with our nation. The severe chastisement which +they have always received from us after a treacherous action, has proved +to them how little they gain by so debasing a line of conduct; and as +they are most anxious to possess many of our productions, they seem to +have come to a resolution to abandon their former system; which, if they +may not be sensible of the injustice of, they see is destructive to their +own interests; and now every chief is as solicitous for the safety of a +European vessel as he would have been formerly for its destruction. + +They have not only lost a portion of their ferocity, but also much of +their native simplicity of character, which, in all parts of the world, +is so highly interesting a study for the traveller. Their constant +intercourse with whalers, who are generally low, unpolished men, leaves +behind it a tinge of vulgarity, of which the native women retain the +largest portion. In many instances, they quite spoil their good looks, by +half adopting the European costume. Those who are living in the +retirement of their own villages have a natural ease and elegance of +manner, which they soon lose after their introduction to our rough +sailors. I have seen a party of very handsome girls, just landing from +one of the whalers, their beautiful forms hid under old greasy red or +checked shirts, generally put on with the hind parts before. In some +cases the sailors, knowing their taste for finery, bring out with them, +from London, old tawdry gowns, and fierce coloured ribands. And thus +equipped, they come on shore the most grotesque objects imaginable, each +highly delighted with her gaudy habiliments. + +Kororareka beach, where we took up our residence, seemed the general +place of rendezvous for all Europeans whom chance might bring into this +bay. At this time there were two large vessels lying at anchor within a +quarter of a mile of the shore, and I was informed there were sometimes +as many as twelve or thirteen. + +The spot is a most delightful one, being about three-quarters of a mile +in extent, sheltered by two picturesque promontories, and possessing a +fine circular, firm, sandy beach, on which there is seldom much surf, so +that boats can at all times land and haul up. Scattered amongst the +rushes and small bushes is seen a New Zealand village, which at first +landing is scarcely perceptible, the huts being so low. Some of them are +of English design, though of native workmanship. These are generally the +dwellings of some Europeans, who are of so doubtful a character that it +would be difficult to guess to what order of society they belonged +previous to their being transplanted amongst these savages. + +I found a respectable body of Scotch mechanics settled here, who came out +in the New Zealand Company's ship Rosanna, and who determined to remain +at Kororareka. Their persevering industry as yet has been crowned with +success, and they seem well pleased with the prospects before them. + +Here, these hardy sons of Britain are employed in both carrying on and +instructing the wondering savage in various branches of useful art. Here +the smith has erected his forge, and his sooty mansion is crowded by +curious natives, who voluntarily perform the hardest and most dirty work, +and consider themselves fully recompensed by a sight of his mysterious +labours, every portion of which fills them with astonishment. Here is +heard daily the sound of the sawpit, while piles of neat white planks +appear arranged on the beach. These laborious and useful Scotchmen +interfere with no one, and pursue successfully their industrious career, +without either requiring or receiving any assistance from Home. + +But there is another class of Europeans here, who are both useless and +dangerous, and these lower the character of the white people in the +estimation of the natives. These men are called "Beach Rangers," most of +whom have deserted from, or have been turned out of whalers for crimes, +for which, had they been taken Home and tried, they would have been +hanged; some few among them, having been too lazy to finish the voyage +they had begun, had deserted from their ships, and were then leading a +mean and miserable life amongst the natives. + +There is still a third class of our countrymen to be met with here, whose +downcast and sneaking looks proclaim them to be runaway convicts from New +South Wales. These unhappy men are treated with derision and contempt by +all classes; and the New Zealanders, being perfectly aware of their state +of degradation, refuse all intercourse with them. They are idle, +unprincipled, and vicious in the extreme, and are much feared in the Bay +of Islands; for when by any means they obtain liquor, they prove +themselves most dangerous neighbours. + +My friend Shand and myself were most comfortably situated. An intimate +friend of mine (Captain Duke, of the whaler The Sisters) had, in +consequence of ill-health, taken up his residence on shore while his +vessel completed her cruise. In his hut we found comfort and safety; and +from his information and advice we were enabled to avoid the advances of +all whom his experience had taught him were to be shunned. + +On terms of the closest intimacy, and with his hut adjoining that of my +friend Captain Duke, lived Shulitea[4] (or King George, as he styled +himself), a chief of great power, who controlled the whole of the +district where we were. We all felt grateful to him for his +manifestations of friendship, and at the same time were conscious of +enjoying a greater degree of security by his proximity. He was the first +chief who offered protection to "the white people," and he has never been +known to have broken his engagement. An unexpected and remarkable +instance of his adherence to their interests, in spite of temptation, +took place a few years since, which I deem worthy of relation here. + +The ship Brompton, in endeavouring to work out of the bay, by some +accident got on shore, and finally became a complete wreck. This fine +vessel, with a valuable cargo on board, lay helpless on the beach, and +the crew and passengers expected nothing less than plunder and +destruction. The natives from the interior, hearing of the circumstance, +hastened down in vast numbers to participate in the general pillage. But +King George summoned all his warriors to his aid, and with this party +placed himself between the wreck and those who came to plunder it. I was +informed by several who were present at the time, that, after declaring +that "not an article should be taken till himself and all his party were +destroyed," he advanced, and thus explained his reasons for protecting +the strangers and their property:-- + +"You" (said King George) "come from the interior; all of you think only +of what you can get, without considering the consequences, which, indeed, +are of little import to you, living, as you do, out of reach of the +reproaches and vengeance of the white men. But look how differently I am +situated. I live on the beach; this Bay is my residence; I invite the +white men to come and trade here under the promise of my protection; they +come; several years of profitable trading have passed between us. King +George, they say, is a good man; now an accident has befallen one of +their ships in my territory, what must King George do? Why, he _must_ +assist them; which he _will_ do, and defend them against everyone who +shall attempt to injure them." In consequence of this speech, and his +exertions, not a thing was taken from the wreck by the savages who had +collected for that purpose. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 4: The chief referred to by Mr. Earle as Shulitea, or King +George, was a noted Bay of Islands chief named Whareumu. He was killed in +a fight with the Hokianga tribes, in March, 1828. (See appendix.)] + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +MAORI NON-PROGRESSIVENESS. + + +This anecdote proves that King George and his people possessed feelings +of honour and generosity, which, if properly cultivated, might lead to +the most happy results. From the length of time these people have been +known to the Europeans, it might naturally be expected that great changes +would have taken place in their habits, manners, arts, and manufactures; +but this is not the case. Their huts are of the same diminutive +proportions as described by Captain Cook; their clothing and mats, their +canoes and paddles, are precisely the same as when that navigator +described them. When they can obtain English tools, they use them in +preference to their own; still their work is not better done. The only +material change that has taken place is in their mode of warfare. + +The moment the New Zealanders became acquainted with the nature of +firearms, their minds were directed but to one point, namely, to become +possessed of them. After many ingenious and treacherous attempts to +obtain these oft-coveted treasures, and which, for the most part, ended +in their defeat, they had recourse to industry, and determined to create +commodities which they might fairly barter for these envied muskets. +Potatoes were planted, hogs were reared, and flax prepared, not for their +own use or comfort, but to exchange with the Europeans for firearms. +Their plans succeeded; and they have now fairly possessed themselves of +those weapons, which at first made us so formidable in their eyes; and as +they are in constant want of fresh supplies of ammunition, I feel +convinced it will always be their wish to be on friendly terms with us, +for the purpose of procuring these desirable stores. I have not heard of +a single instance in which they have turned these arms against us, though +they are often grossly insulted. + +In their combats with each other, firearms are used with dreadful effect. +The whole soul of a New Zealander seems absorbed in the thoughts of war; +every action of his life is influenced by it; and to possess weapons +which give him such a decided superiority over those who have only their +native implements of offence, he will sacrifice everything. The value +attached by them to muskets, and their ceaseless desire to possess them, +will prove a sufficient security to foreigners who enter their harbours, +or remain on their coasts; as I know, from experience, that the New +Zealanders will rather put up with injuries than run the risk of +offending those who manufacture and barter with them such inestimable +commodities. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +A MISSION SETTLEMENT. + + +A few days after my arrival in the Bay, I crossed to the opposite side, +to visit the Church missionary settlement, and to deliver a letter of +introduction I had to one of the members. Here, on a beautiful bank, with +a delightful beach in front, and the entrance of the bay open to them, +the clear and blue expanse of water speckled over with fertile islands, +reside these comfortable teachers of the Gospel. The name they have given +this spot is "Marsden Vale." They very soon gave us to understand they +did not wish for our acquaintance, and their coldness and inhospitality +(I must acknowledge) created in my mind a thorough dislike to them. The +object of the mission, as it was first planned, might have been attained, +and might have proved highly beneficial to the New Zealanders; but as it +is now conducted, no good result can be expected from it. Any man of +common sense must agree with me, that a savage can receive but little +benefit from having the abstruse points of the Gospel preached to him, if +his mind is not prepared to receive them. This is the plan adopted here; +and nothing will convince these enthusiasts that it is wrong, or induce +them to change it for one more agreeable to the dictates of reason. + +Upon inquiring who and what these men were, I found that the greater part +of them were hardy mechanics (not well-educated clergymen), whom the +benevolent and well-intentioned people of England had sent out in order +to teach the natives the importance of _different trades_--a most +judicious arrangement, and which ought to be the foundation of all +missions. What could be a more gratifying sight than groups of these +athletic savages, toiling at the anvil or the saw; erecting for +themselves substantial dwellings; thus leading them by degrees to know +and to appreciate the comforts resulting from peaceful, laborious, and +useful occupations? Then, while they felt sincere gratitude for services +rendered them, at their leisure hours, and on certain days, _these_ +missionaries should attempt to expound to them, in as simple a manner as +possible, the nature of revealed religion! + +In New Zealand, the "mechanic" missionary only carries on his trade till +he has every comfort around him--his house finished, his garden fenced, +and a strong stockade enclosing all, to keep off the "pagan" savages. +This done, then commences the easy task of preaching. They collect a few +ragged urchins of natives, whom they teach to read and write their own +language--the English tongue being forbidden; and when these children +return to their families, they are despised by them, as being effeminate +and useless. + +I once saw a sturdy blacksmith in the prime of life, sitting in the midst +of a group of savages, attempting to expound to them the mysteries of our +holy redemption--perplexing his own brains, as well as those of his +auditors, with the most incomprehensible and absurd opinions. How much +better would he have been employed in teaching them how to weld a piece +of iron, or to make a nail! + +What causes much disapprobation here, is the contemptuous manner in which +they treat their own countrymen, as they receive most of them on the +outside of their stockade fence. + +On our return from Marsden Vale, our savage friends laughed heartily at +us. They had warned us of the reception we should meet with; and their +delight at seeing us again formed a strange contrast to that of their +Christian teachers, whose inhospitable dwellings we determined never to +reenter. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +A VISIT FROM HONGI. + + +A few days after my visit to the missionaries, while we were busily +employed in constructing our huts, assisted by about fifty natives, on a +sudden a great commotion took place amongst them. Each left his work and +ran to his hut, and immediately returned armed with both musket and +cartouch box: apparently all the arms in the village were mustered, and +all seemed ready for immediate use. On inquiring into the cause of all +these war-like preparations, I was informed that Hongi and his chief men +were crossing the bay in several large war canoes; and though he was +considered as a friend and ally, yet, as he was a man of such desperate +ambition, and consummate cunning, it was considered necessary to receive +him under arms, which he might take either as a compliment, or as a proof +of how well they were aware of the guest they were receiving. + +This man, Hongi, was a most extraordinary character, and a person I had +long had a great curiosity to see, his daring and savage deeds having +often been the subject of conversation in New South Wales. In his own +country he was looked upon as invulnerable and invincible. In the year +1821 he had visited England, during which he had been honoured by having +a personal interview with George the Fourth, and had received from His +Majesty several valuable presents; amongst others, were a superb suit of +chain armour, and a splendid double-barrelled gun. From possessing these +arms, so far superior to any of his neighbours, he looked upon himself +as impossible to be conquered, and commenced a career of warfare and +destruction on all his enemies, and nearly exterminated them. His friends +called him "a god," and his enemies feared him as "a devil." Last year, +Hongi made war upon, and totally annihilated, the tribe who had fifteen +years previously attacked and murdered the crew of the Boyd. He had long +determined to take revenge for that treacherous action, as he always +styled himself "the friend of the English." After this, he removed his +residence, and took possession of the conquered district. But in this his +last battle he had to fight without his invulnerable coat of mail, his +slaves having stolen it and gone over with it to the enemy. His people +were now confirmed in their superstition respecting its being proof +against shot, by his having received during the combat a bullet in the +breast, from the effects of which he is fast sinking into the grave. His +companions related the following extraordinary anecdote concerning him +after he received this wound, which proves his great presence of mind. + +His party were retreating, and the enemy were charging him vigorously; +Hongi stood alone when he received the bullet; he did not fall +immediately, and the enemy were eagerly running up to despatch him, when +he roused all his energies, and shouted aloud for the two hundred chiefs, +who lay concealed, to rush forward and fall on. The foe, hearing this, +paused, when about a dozen chiefs, and indeed, as Hongi well knew, all +that he had, suddenly made their appearance. This caused a panic; they +turned about; the pursued became the pursuers, and nearly the whole tribe +were destroyed. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +INTERVIEW WITH THE GREAT MAORI CONQUEROR. + + +He landed about a mile from the village, and we lost no time in procuring +an interpreter, with whom we went instantly to pay our respects to this +celebrated conqueror. + +We found him and his party; his slaves preparing their morning repast. +The scene altogether was highly interesting. In a beautiful bay, +surrounded by high rocks and overhanging trees, the chiefs sat in mute +contemplation, their arms piled up in regular order on the beach. Hongi, +not only from his high rank (but in consequence of his wound being +toboo'd, or rendered holy), sat apart from the rest. Their richly +ornamented war canoes were drawn up on the strand; some of the slaves +were unlading stores, others were kindling fires. To me it almost seemed +to realise some of the passages of Homer, where he describes the wanderer +Ulysses and his gallant band of warriors. We approached the chief, and +paid our respects to him. He received us kindly, and with a dignified +composure, as one accustomed to receive homage. His look was emaciated; +but so mild was the expression of his features, that he would have been +the last man I should have imagined accustomed to scenes of bloodshed and +cruelty. But I soon remarked, that when he became animated in +conversation, his eyes sparkled with fire, and their expression changed, +demonstrating that it only required his passions to be roused to exhibit +him under a very different aspect. His wife and daughter were permitted +to sit close to him, to administer to his wants, no others being allowed +so to do, on account of his taboo. + +He was arrayed in a new blanket, which completely enveloped his figure, +leaving exposed his highly-tattooed face, and head profusely covered with +long, black, curling hair, adorned with a quantity of white feathers. He +was altogether a very fine study; and, with his permission, I made a +sketch of him, and also one including the whole group. Finding we were +newcomers, he asked us a variety of questions, and, among others, our +opinion of his country. His remarks were judicious and sensible, and he +seemed much pleased with our admiration of his territory. I produced a +bottle of wine that I had brought with me, and his wife supplied him with +a few glasses, which seemed to revive and animate him. + +We were then invited to join him in a trip in one of his canoes, in which +was placed a bed for him to recline upon; his wife seated herself close +to him, while his daughter, a very pretty, interesting girl about fifteen +years of age, took a paddle in her hand, which she used with the greatest +dexterity. I took the liberty of presenting her with a bracelet, with +which she seemed highly delighted; when Hongi, perceiving that I was in a +giving mood, pointed to his beard, and asked me for a razor. Fortunately, +I had put one in my pocket on setting out, and I now presented it to +him, by which gifts we continued on terms of great sociability and +friendship. After a pleasant cruise with this (to us) extraordinary +family, and contriving to make ourselves pretty well understood, we +returned about the close of the day, and landed at the bay. All the +natives were much delighted at our confidence in them, and we were +equally gratified by their hospitality. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +A MAORI WELCOME. + + +I was much amused with the punctilios used in the visit of ceremony paid +to King George. Hongi, accompanied by about a dozen of his chiefs, +advanced towards our settlement, leaving their guns and hatchets behind +them; as they approached, all our tribe discharged their pieces in the +air. When they met, all rubbed noses (a ceremony never to be dispensed +with on formal occasions). They were then conducted by King George to his +huts on the beach, and in the enclosure in front of them the warriors +squatted on the ground. Hongi, being tabooed, or under the immediate +protection of their Atua, or God, still sat apart. Then the mother of +George, called Tururo, or the Queen, and who is regarded quite as a sybil +by the whole tribe, approached Hongi with the greatest respect and +caution, and seated herself some paces from his feet. She then began, +with a most melancholy cadence (her eyes streaming with tears and fixed +upon the ground), the song of welcome. All their meetings of ceremony or +friendship begin with the shedding of copious floods of tears; and as +Hongi's visit was such an unhoped for and unexpected honour, so much +greater in proportion was the necessity for their lamentations. This +woeful song lasted half an hour, and all the assembly were soon in tears; +and though at first I was inclined to turn it into ridicule, I was soon +in the same state myself. The pathetic strain, and the scene altogether, +was most impressive. As the song proceeded, I was informed of the nature +of the subject, which was a theme highly calculated to affect all +present. She began by complimenting the wounded warrior, deploring the +incurable state of his wound, and regretting that God was wanting him, +and was about so soon to take him from his friends! Then she recounted +some of his most celebrated deeds of valour, naming and deploring the +number of his friends who had fallen bravely in the wars, and lamenting +that the enemies who had killed them were still living! This part seemed +to affect them powerfully; and when Tururo ceased her song (being quite +exhausted) they all rose, thus demonstrating their respect and +approbation. + +This was followed by a general attack upon the good things King George +had prepared for them. The slaves came flocking in, bearing baskets of +hot kumaras, potatoes, and fish. I observed their tears had not spoiled +their appetites; they ate voraciously. After having done great honour to +the feast, they all started on their feet for a dance, which lasted a +long while, and with which they concluded the evening. + +The dances of all savage nations are beautiful, but those of the New +Zealanders partake also of the horrible. The regularity of their +movements is truly astonishing; and the song, which always accompanies a +dance, is most harmonious. They soon work themselves up to a pitch of +frenzy; the distortions of their face and body are truly dreadful, and +fill the mind with horror. Love and war are the subjects of their songs +and dances; but the details of the latter passion are by far the most +popular among them. I was astonished to find that their women mixed in +the dance indiscriminately with the men, and went through all those +horrid gestures with seemingly as much pleasure as the warriors +themselves. + +The next morning I was awakened, at daybreak, by the most dismal sounds I +had ever heard. I started up, and found it proceeded from the tribes +parting with each other. They had divided themselves into little parties, +each forming a circle, and were crying most piteously, and cutting their +flesh as a cook would score pork for roasting. On such occasions each is +armed with a sharp shell, or, if he can possibly obtain so valuable a +prize, a piece of a broken glass bottle. All were streaming with tears +and blood, while Hongi and his friends embarked in their large and +richly-ornamented canoes, and sailed from our beach. After his departure, +I soon discovered that, notwithstanding their apparent affection, King +George and his friends were most happy their visitors had left them; and +that it was more the dread of Hongi's power, than love for him, that +induced them to treat him with such respect and homage. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +EXCURSIONS IN THE INTERIOR. + + +I made several excursions into the interior, and each confirmed me in the +good opinion I had formed of the natives. I felt myself quite safe +amongst them. There is a great peculiarity in rambling through this +country; namely, the total absence of quadrupeds. There are abundance of +birds, which are so numerous at times as almost to darken the air--many +of them possessing very sweet notes; and wild ducks, teal, etc., cover +the various streams. Wherever I went I did not discover any grass, almost +every part being covered either with fern or flax; the former yielding +the natives their principal article of food, and the latter their +clothing. To this dearth of animals may be attributed the chief cause of +their ferocity and propensity to cannibalism. + +In most uncivilised countries the natives use their arms against the wild +animals of the forest. The dangers and difficulties they encounter in +overcoming them form a kind of prelude to war, and perfect them in the +use of their weapons. The rifle of the North American Indian would never +be so much dreaded did he not depend upon its produce for his +subsistence. I have myself (during my travels through North America) had +many opportunities of witnessing the certain aim they take both with the +arrow and the bullet; while those in the southern parts of that vast +continent, who depend on taking the wild cattle, acquire, by constant +practice, an equal dexterity with the _lassoo_, which those who have not +witnessed it could scarcely imagine possible. The New Zealander, while +handling a musket, is quite in a state of trepidation; and though it is +his darling weapon he seems always afraid of it, and is never sure of his +aim till he is quite close to his object. I have mentioned this fact to +several Europeans who had accompanied various tribes to battle, and they +all informed me they made a sad bungling use of the musket; their aim +would be surer if they had large and ferocious animals to hunt or contend +with. There is another circumstance that operates against their acquiring +skill in the use of the gun: they are so fond of cleaning, scrubbing, and +taking them to pieces, that in a short time the locks become loose, the +screws are injured, and they are soon rendered entirely useless, to the +great surprise and dismay of their owners, who are constantly pestering +the Europeans by bringing them _sick_ muskets (as they call them) to look +at, and put to rights, and are quite surprised that we "cannot make them +well again." They cannot be made to comprehend that every white man does +not know how to make a musket, or, at least, to repair it. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +ENTERTAINED BY MAORI WOMEN. + + +On the 24th November we took our departure from the bay, as we had to +return to Hokianga, where we had left our brig; and it was only under a +promise of making a speedy return, and remaining longer with them, that +our savage friends would suffer us to leave them. We expected to reach +the Kerikeri River before night; but in this we were disappointed. It at +length became quite dark; and the ebb tide making against us, rendered +further advance impossible. We had to seek some place of shelter for the +night, and not a hut was visible. While we were debating on what was best +to be done, we observed a light from the shore, and made for it; but, it +being low water, our boat stuck fast in the slime long before we reached +the banks; we were, consequently, obliged to wade knee-deep through the +slippery mud. We soon discovered a party of women sitting round a fire +made in the midst of the swamp. They had come here for the purpose of +procuring shell-fish; and as they are never very fastidious about shelter +or dry beds, they had determined (according to their usual custom) to +pass the night where they had been occupied during the day. This sort of +bivouac I found excessively uncomfortable. The moment we were seated the +water began to ooze out an inch or two all round us. We sought in vain +for a dry place, for we were enveloped in darkness, and surrounded by +rushes and flags six or seven feet high; but, being very much fatigued, +we slept, notwithstanding the misery of a wet bed, with a cloud of fog +for curtains. I did not wake till one of the women gave me a good shake, +and informed me that the day was well up. They had prepared us a +breakfast of hot shell-fish, which they had caught the preceding day, and +they all seemed delighted by our eating heartily of them. As we had some +biscuits in our boat, we sent for them, and gave our "fair founders of +the feast" a share; and we were all very sociable and merry. When we left +them, as it was again low water, the women carried us to our boat, and +took their leave of us amidst peals of laughter. This was another proof +to me that the English are quite safe, though travelling unguarded, +amongst these people. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +LOADING SPARS AT HOKIANGA. + + +About nine the next morning we reached the Kerikeri River; and, it being +Sunday, the members of the mission met us on landing, and used all their +endeavours to prevent our travelling on that day; but, independent of the +urgent necessity of our reaching Hokianga, the captain of our vessel, who +was with us, being particularly anxious to return on board, we continued +our journey, and at night came to a bivouac in a dense wood, so that we +now had the luxury of stretching our weary limbs on dry ground. The next +day, as we journeyed towards the river, we fell in with all our old +friends, who inquired into the particulars of our adventures, and seemed +highly delighted at our return. + +We found "all right" on board the brig; but as she was chartered to go to +Tongataboo I and my friend Shand determined to remain at New Zealand till +her return. Our principal difficulty seemed to be which side of the +island we should make choice of for a dwelling-place. When it became +known to the natives that we intended to remain with them, several chiefs +came and offered us their protection; and each would have built us a +house, but we preferred making our sojourn at the Bay of Islands. We were +often at a loss how to evade the kind importunities of our savage hosts +without giving them offence. "Is not our country as good as +theirs?"--"Are you not as safe amongst us?"--"Are we not as willing and +as capable of protecting you as Shulitea?" These were the arguments they +used; and, finally, we were obliged to inform them that we had a friend +and countryman (Captain Duke) settled on the other side, who was +preparing a house for our reception. On being informed of this +circumstance they consented to part with us, though evidently with great +reluctance. + +While we lay here the ship Harmony, of London, Captain Middleton, arrived +from Sydney for a cargo of spars. So large a vessel entering the port put +the whole district into commotion; and when the chiefs understood the +nature of her wants, and had seen the fine double-barrelled guns and +store of powder to be given as payment for the wished-for freight, they +hastened to the woods, and the axe was soon laid to the roots of the +trees. I saw them pursuing their laborious employ with alacrity. In a few +days a sufficient number of fine logs came floating down the river to +load the ship, and they were all cleared in a workmanlike manner, ready +to stow away. The chief things to induce these people to work are +firearms and powder; these are two stimulants to their industry which +never fail. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +DEATH OF A GREAT CHIEF. + + +A few days after our return to Hokianga we received intelligence that A +Rowa, the father of Mooetara, and the eldest chief in the district, was +dead. These deaths, when they occur among men of rank, are generally +accompanied by some horrible scenes of butchery among their slaves--a +common custom among all savages, but practised here (I was informed) with +peculiar cruelty. We went on shore to witness the ceremony of A Rowa's +lying in state, hoping at the same time that our presence might induce +them to dispense with some of those barbarous cruelties which generally +accompany their funeral rites. We had, indeed, every reason to think we +had conjectured rightly, for nothing of the kind took place; which was +considered by all as a circumstance somewhat remarkable. A great +concourse of savages had assembled all round the village of the deceased +chief, and there was a tremendous firing of muskets, but no particular +marks of grief. I spoke to Mooetara, and requested, as a favour, if it +were not breaking through their established rules, that he would conduct +me to the body of his father. He accordingly led me to the outside of the +village; and under a rude hut (constructed for the purpose) lay the body +of the deceased chief, closely covered up with mats, leaving only part of +the face and head exposed; in his hair was stuck a profusion of long +white feathers, by way of ornament. Two women (whom I understood were his +wives) sat close to the corpse; they were painted all over with red +ochre, and seemed to perform the parts of chief mourners. These kept up a +low moaning noise, and occasionally whisked off the flies from the face +of the deceased. The women, the corpse, the hut, and the ground for some +space round them, were all strictly tapued. Some bundles of fish, and +some calabashes filled with oil, were left close by the body, intended +for his consumption during his passage to the next world. + +I imagine that one reason of no outrage having been committed during this +solemn occasion was our brig being on the point of sailing, and previous +to her departure a great deal of traffic was expected to be carried on +with the natives, for there was still a considerable quantity of muskets +undisposed of; and I think, in this instance, avarice overcame filial +affection--the minds of the chief's family being so intent upon obtaining +good bargains, that they had not time to sit and mourn over their +departed parent, nor to work themselves up into a paroxysm of passion +sufficiently violent to cause them to murder their slaves. This afforded +me a convincing proof that as soon as they are occupied by commerce, or +the useful arts, their barbarous rites will gradually be discontinued, +and will speedily cease altogether. + +Our brig having sailed, we were again alone with these wild yet +interesting people. We expected our stay might be about six months, and +had provided a stock-in-trade, consisting of a barrel of powder, half a +dozen muskets, some fish-hooks, and a quantity of tobacco. Everything we +possessed we delivered into the hands of the natives, who accounted to +us for the stock thus entrusted to their management with the most +scrupulous exactness. Nothing can be fairer than their mode of bartering +with the Europeans; the prices are fixed; ten large hogs, or 120 baskets +of potatoes (about a ton and a-half), are given for a musket; for small +articles, such as fish, Indian corn, or fruits, the ready money are +fish-hooks and tobacco. As we were now about to become inhabitants of New +Zealand, it became necessary that we should be well acquainted with the +particulars of their methods of "doing business," and that we should +apply ourselves diligently to the study of the language, which we +acquired much more readily than I had anticipated. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +BRUTAL MURDER OF A WIFE. + + +A few days after the departure of the brig I witnessed a specimen of +their summary method of executing justice. A chief, resident in the +village, had proof of the infidelity of one of his wives; and, being +perfectly sure of her guilt, he took his patoo-patoo (or stone hatchet) +and proceeded to his hut, where this wretched woman was employed in +household affairs. Without mentioning the cause of his suspicion, or once +upbraiding her, he deliberately aimed a blow at her head, which killed +her on the spot; and, as she was a slave, he dragged the body to the +outside of the village, and there left it to be devoured by the dogs. The +account of this transaction was soon brought to us, and we proceeded to +the place to request permission to bury the body of the murdered woman, +which was immediately granted. Accordingly, we procured a couple of +slaves, who assisted us to carry the corpse down to the beach, where we +interred it in the most decent manner we could. + +This was the second murder I was very nearly a witness to since my +arrival; and the indifference with which each had been spoken of induced +me to believe that such barbarities were events of frequent occurrence; +yet the manners of all seemed kind and gentle towards each other; but +infidelity in a wife is never forgiven here; and, in general, if the +lover can be taken, he also is sacrificed along with the adulteress. +Truth obliges me to confess that, notwithstanding these horrors staring +them in the face, they will, if opportunity offers, indulge in an +intrigue. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +ANOTHER JOURNEY TO BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +As there were two roads across to the Bay of Islands, and I was anxious +to see as much of the country as possible, I determined that my second +journey should be by the longest route. I set off, accompanied only by a +native boy to carry a small portmanteau and to serve me as a guide. As, +on my former journey, we travelled many miles through thick tangled +forests, fatiguing beyond description. In the midst of our toilsome +progress, night frequently overtook us; then, by means of my +fowling-piece, I procured a light, the boy made a fire, and we passed the +night in this vast wilderness, far from the habitation of any human +being! At daybreak we resumed our journey, and at length (about ten +o'clock) we emerged from the wood, and entered upon extensive plains. +These were not naked deserts, similar to the ones I had passed through on +my former route, but were diversified with bush and brake, with a number +of small villages scattered in various directions. At mid-day we arrived +at what in New Zealand is considered a town of great size and importance, +called Ty-a-my. It is situated on the sides of a beautiful hill, the top +surmounted by a pa, in the midst of a lonely and extensive plain, covered +with plantations of Indian corn, Kumara and potatoes. This is the +principal inland settlement, and, in point of quiet beauty and +fertility, it equalled any place I had ever seen in the various countries +I have visited. Its situation brought forcibly to my remembrance the +scenery around Canterbury. + +We found the village totally deserted, all the inhabitants being employed +in their various plantations; they shouted to us as we passed, thus +bidding us welcome, but did not leave their occupations to receive us. To +view the cultivated parts of this country from an eminence a person might +easily imagine himself in a civilised land; for miles around the village +of Ty-a-my nothing but beautiful green fields present themselves to the +eye. The exact rows in which they plant their Indian corn would do credit +to a first-rate English farmer, and the way in which they prepare the +soil is admirable. The greatest deficiency which I observed in the +country around me was the total absence of fences; and this defect +occasions the natives a great deal of trouble, which might very easily be +avoided. Hogs are the principal part of their wealth, with which, at all +times, they can traffic with vessels touching at their ports. These +animals, consequently, are of the utmost importance to them; but during +the growth of their crops, the constant watching the hogs require to keep +them out of the plantations consumes more time than would effectually +fence in their whole country; but I have no doubt, as they already begin +to follow our advice and adopt our plans, they will soon see the utility +of fencing in their land. I have at various times held many conversations +with different chiefs on this subject, all of whom have acknowledged the +propriety of so doing. + +A few miles after leaving this beautiful village we came to a spot +covered with heaps of cinders and hillocks of volcanic matter. I found +all these hillocks small craters, but none of them, burning; and for +miles our road lay through ashes and lava. These fires must have been +extinguished many ages since, as there is not the slightest tradition +among any of the natives of their ever having been burning. + +After passing over this lava, our journey lay through a very swampy +country, intersected with streams. I got completely wearied with +stripping to wade through them, so that at length I plunged in clothes +and all. At the close of a most fatiguing day's march, we arrived in +sight of the bay, having travelled over an extent of about fifty miles +since the morning! No canoe being in sight, and we being too distant to +make signals to our brig, we had to pass another night in bivouac on a +part of the beach called Waitangi; and as it did not rain we slept pretty +comfortably. The next morning I procured a canoe, and went on board our +vessel. + +The day following the brig took her final departure from New Zealand, and +we bade farewell to Captain Kent. We now formally placed ourselves under +the protection of King George, who seemed highly pleased with his charge; +and in a few days three good houses were ready for our reception--one for +ourselves, a second for our stores, and a third for our servants. But our +pleasant prospects were soon obscured by a circumstance totally +unexpected, which placed us in a most critical situation, and which we +had every reason to fear would lead to our total destruction. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +VISIT OF A WAR PARTY. + + +I was roused one morning at daybreak by my servant running in with the +intelligence that a great number of war canoes were crossing the bay. As +King George had told us but the evening before that he expected a visit +from Ta-ri-ah, a chief of the tribe called Ngapuhis, whose territory lay +on the opposite side of the bay, and given us to understand that Ta-ri-ah +was a man not to be trusted, and therefore feared some mischief might +happen if he really came, the sight of these war canoes naturally caused +us considerable alarm, and we sincerely wished that the visit was over. + +We dressed ourselves with the utmost expedition, and walked down to the +beach. The landing of these warriors was conducted with a considerable +degree of order, and could I have divested myself of all ideas of danger +I should have admired the sight excessively. All our New Zealand +friends--the tribe of Shulitea--were stripped naked, their bodies were +oiled, and all were completely armed; their muskets were loaded, their +cartouch boxes were fastened round their waists, and their patoo-patoos +were fixed to their wrists. Their hair was tied up in a tight knot at the +top of their heads, beautifully ornamented with feathers of the +albatross. As the opposite party landed, ours all crouched on the ground, +their eyes fixed on their visitors, and perfectly silent. When the +debarkation was completed I observed the chief, Ta-ri-ah, put himself at +their head, and march towards us with his party formed closely and +compactly, and armed with muskets and paddles. When they came very near +they suddenly stopped. Our party continued still mute, with their +firelocks poised ready for use. For the space of a few minutes all was +still, each party glaring fiercely on the other; and they certainly +formed one of the most beautiful and extraordinary pictures I had ever +beheld. The foreground was formed by a line of naked savages, each +resting on one knee, with musket advanced, their gaze fixed on the +opposite party, their fine, broad, muscular backs contrasting with the +dark foliage in front, and catching the gleam of the rising sun. The +strangers were clothed in the most grotesque manner imaginable--some +armed, some naked, some with long beards, others were painted all over +with red ochre; every part of each figure was quite still, except the +rolling and glaring of their eyes on their opponents. The background was +formed by the beach, and a number of their beautiful war canoes dancing +on the waves; while, in the distance, the mountains on the opposite side +of the bay were just tinged with the varied and beautiful colours of the +sun, then rising in splendour from behind them. + +The stillness of this extraordinary scene did not last long. The Ngapuhis +commenced a noisy and discordant song and dance, yelling, jumping, and +making the most hideous faces. This was soon answered by a loud shout +from our party, who endeavoured to outdo the Ngapuhis in making horrible +distortions of their countenances; then succeeded another dance from our +visitors, after which our friends made a rush, and in a sort of rough +joke set them running. Then all joined in a pell-mell sort of encounter, +in which numerous hard blows were given and received; then all the party +fired their pieces in the air, and the ceremony of landing was thus +deemed completed. They then approached each other, and began rubbing +noses; and those who were particular friends cried and lamented over each +other. + +The slaves now commenced the labour of making fires to cook the morning +meal, while the chiefs, squatting down, formed a ring, or, rather, an +oblong circle, on the ground; then one at a time rose up, and made long +speeches, which they did in a manner peculiar to themselves. The speaker, +during his harangue, keeps running backwards and forwards within the +oblong space, using the most violent but appropriate gesticulation; so +expressive, indeed, of the subject on which he is speaking, that a +spectator who does not understand their language can form a tolerable +idea as to what the affair is then under debate. The orator is never +interrupted in his speech; but, when he finishes and sits down, another +immediately rises up and takes his place, so that all who choose have an +opportunity of delivering their sentiments, after which the assembly +breaks up. + +Though the meeting of these hostile tribes had thus ended more amicably +than King George and his party could have expected, it was easily to be +perceived that the Ngapuhis were determined on executing some atrocity or +depredations before their return; they accordingly pretended to recollect +some old offence committed by the English settlers at the other end of +the beach. They proceeded thither, and first attacked and broke open the +house of a blacksmith, and carried off every article it contained. They +then marched to the residence of an English captain (who was in England), +and plundered it of everything that could be taken away, and afterwards +sent word they intended to return to our end of the beach. Our fears were +greatly increased by finding that our friends were not sufficiently +strong to protect us from the superior force of the Ngapuhis, and our +chief, George, being himself (we supposed) conscious of his inability, +had left us to depend upon our own resources. + + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +BURNED OUT OF HOUSE AND HOME. + + +We now called a council of war of all the Europeans settled here; and it +was unanimously resolved that we should protect and defend our houses and +property, and fortify our position in the best way we could. Captain Duke +had in his possession four twelve-pounders, and these we brought in front +of the enclosure in which our huts were situated, and were all entirely +employed in loading them with round and grape shot, and had made them all +ready for action, when, to our consternation and dismay, we found we had +a new and totally unexpected enemy to contend with. By some accident one +of our houses was in flames. Our situation was now perilous in the +extreme. The buildings, the work of English carpenters, were constructed +of dry rushes and well-seasoned wood, and this was one of a very +respectable size, and we had hoped, in a very few days, would be finished +fit for our removing into. + +For some seconds we stood in mute amazement, not knowing to which point +to direct our energies. As the cry of "fire" was raised, groups of +natives came rushing from all directions upon our devoted settlement, +stripping off their clothes, and yelling in the most discordant pitch of +voice. I entered the house, and brought out one of my trunks, but on +attempting to return a second time I found it filled with naked savages, +tearing everything to pieces, and carrying away whatever they could lay +their hands upon. The fierce raging of the flames, the heat from the +fire, the yells of the men, and the shrill cries of the women, formed, +altogether, a horrible combination; added to all this was the +mortification of seeing all our property carried off in different +directions, without the least possibility of our preventing it. The tribe +of the Ngapuhis (who, when the fire began, were at the other end of the +beach) left their operations in that quarter and poured down upon us to +share in the general plunder. Never shall I forget the countenance of the +chief, as he rushed forward at the head of his destroying crew! He was +called "The Giant," and he was well worthy of the name, being the tallest +and largest man I had ever seen; he had an immense bushy black beard, and +grinned exultingly when he saw the work of destruction proceeding with +such rapidity, and kept shouting loudly to his party to excite them to +carry off all they could. + +A cask containing seventy gallons of rum now caught fire and blew up with +a terrible explosion; and, the wind freshening considerably, huge volumes +of smoke and flame burst out in every direction. Two of our houses were +so completely enveloped that we had given up all hopes of saving them. +The third, which was a beautifully carved tapued one, some little +distance from the others, and which we had converted into a store and +magazine, was now the only object of our solicitude and terror. For, +besides the valuable property of various kinds which were deposited +within it, it contained several barrels of gunpowder! It was in vain we +attempted to warn the frantic natives to retire from the vicinity of this +danger. At length we persuaded about a dozen of the most rational to +listen while we explained to them the cause of our alarm; and they +immediately ascended to the roof, where, with the utmost intrepidity and +coolness, they kept pouring water over the thatch, thus lessening the +probability of an immediate explosion. About this time we noticed the +reappearance of King George, which circumstance rekindled our hopes. He +was armed with a thick stick, which he laid heavily on the backs of such +of his subjects as were running away with our property, thus forcing them +to relinquish their prizes, and to lay them down before his own mansion, +where all was safe. By this means a great deal was recollected. The fire +was now nearly extinguished; but our two really tolerably good houses +were reduced to a heap of smoking ruins, and the greater part of what +belonged to us was taken away by the Ngapuhis. + +This calamity had made us acquainted with another of their barbarous +customs, which is, whenever a misfortune happens to a community, or an +individual, every person, even the friends of his own tribe, fall upon +and strip him of all he has remaining. As an unfortunate fish, when +struck by a harpoon, is instantly surrounded and devoured by his +companions, so in New Zealand, when a chief is killed, his former friends +plunder his widow and children; and they, in revenge, ill-use and even +murder their slaves--thus one misfortune gives birth to various +cruelties. During the fire, our allies proved themselves the most adroit +and active thieves imaginable, though previously to that event we had +never lost an article, although everything we possessed was open to them. + +When we questioned them about our property, they frankly told us where it +was; and, after some difficulty in settling the amount of its ransom, we +got most of our things back again, with the exception of such as had been +carried off by the Ngapuhis. + +Upon the cruelty of this custom I shall make no comments. Probably I +should have remained in ignorance of this savage law, had I not had the +misfortune to become its victim. + +By redeeming from the natives what they had purloined from the fire, we +had restored to us some of our boxes, desks, and clothes; but all our +little comforts towards housekeeping were irretrievably lost. When the +fire was over we received a visit from one of the missionaries, who made +us a cold offer of assistance. We accepted a little tea, sugar and some +few articles of crockery from them; but, although they knew we stood +there houseless, amongst a horde of savages, they never offered us the +shelter of their roofs. I am very sure that had the calamity befallen +them, we should immediately have offered our huts, and shared with them +everything we possessed. Here was an opportunity of practically showing +the "pagans" (as they termed the New Zealanders) the great Christian +doctrine of "doing to others as we would they should do unto us." I must +acknowledge I was sometimes mortified at being obliged to sleep (three of +us huddled up close together) in a small New Zealand hut, filled with +filth and vermin of all kinds, while at only two miles' distance from us +stood a neat village, abounding in every comfort that a bountiful British +public could provide; and we, members of that community, and, indeed, +partly contributors to the funds for its support. + +The high state of excitement into which the savages had been thrown by +the late conflagration gradually subsided, and as we had escaped the +dreaded calamity of our magazine blowing up, we began to look with +calmness on our desolate condition, and draw comfort from thinking how +much worse we might have been circumstanced than we then were. I hope our +distress may prove a benefit to future sojourners in this country, by +showing them the great importance of forming a proper magazine for +powder. The agonies I suffered in contemplating the destruction which six +barrels of powder, each of an hundredweight, would cause amongst a mob of +several hundred naked savages, it is impossible to imagine! + +King George, as well as all his people, were most anxious to build us a +new habitation entirely themselves. They requested us to give them the +dimensions of the various dwellings, and said we should have no further +trouble about them. A party accordingly proceeded to the bush to collect +materials. They first formed the skeleton of a cottage containing three +rooms, with slight sticks, firmly tied together with strips of flax. +While this was in progress, another party was collecting rushes (which +grow plentifully in the neighbourhood, called Ra-poo). These they spread +in the sun for twenty-four hours, when they considered them sufficiently +dry. They then thatched every part of the house, which for neatness and +strength was equal to anything I had ever seen. The doors and windows we +employed our carpenter to make, these being luxuries quite beyond the +comprehension of the natives. We were thus tolerably well lodged again; +and our time passed on tranquilly, almost every day developing some fresh +trait of character amongst these children of nature. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +A HOSTILE DEMONSTRATION. + + +I went to reside for a short time at a village about half a mile distant, +where there was a pretty good house vacant. It was called Ma-to-we, and +belonged to a chief named Atoi, a relation of George's, but a much +younger man. His power was not so great, and he was every way subject to +the authority of the tribe under whose protection I had placed myself. +One morning, at daybreak, we were roused by the hasty approach of King +George and all his warriors towards Ma-to-we. All were fully equipped for +war, and each countenance looked fierce and wild. Our late misfortunes +having rendered us more than usually anxious, this hostile appearance +gave us considerable alarm. We left our house to inquire the reason +thereof, and saw George and his followers enter the village, pull down +several fences, fire a few muskets in the air, dance a most hideous dance +of defiance, and then depart; but not one word of explanation could we +obtain from him. In the course of the morning, however, the women +acquainted us with the cause of this mysterious proceeding, which +determined me to remove my things back again to George's village of +Kororarika as soon as possible. + +The affair was simply this: Atoi had two wives. During the time of our +visit to his village, he was absent, and had entrusted these women to the +care of his brother; but he, instead of being faithful to the trust +reposed in him, had actually seduced one of them. This circumstance came +to the knowledge of George, and he, feeling for the honour of his absent +friend, immediately proceeded to the village, and thus gave the parties +warning that he was fully aware of the nature of their proceedings. He +had also dispatched a messenger to Atoi, to inform him of his disgrace, +and to request his immediate return. In the course of the day it was +expected he would arrive, and bring with him a strong party of friends, +all burning with revenge, and eager to punish his brother for his +unnatural perfidy. It was thought that unless George interfered, much +bloodshed might ensue; and it may readily be imagined how anxious we were +that this dreaded meeting should be over; yet I (for one) had determined +that I would be a witness of it. Therefore, when word was brought to me +that Atoi was crossing the bay, I hastened down to the beach. There I +found all parties assembled from both villages. George and his followers, +who were to act as mediators, sat immediately in front of the place of +landing; behind them were Atoi's brother and all his partizans; and in +the rear were all the women and children, with about a dozen white faces +scattered amongst them. The scene was picturesque and exceedingly +interesting. It was near the close of a lovely summer's day--the sun, +fast sinking towards the horizon, threw a warm and mellow glow over the +wide expanse of the far-spreading bay, whose smooth waters were only +disturbed by the approaching canoe cutting its foamy way. It was crowded +with naked warriors, urging their rapid course towards the shore; and we +heard the loud and furious song of the chief, animating his friends to +exertion; we saw his frantic gestures, as he stood in the centre of his +canoe, brandishing his weapons. As they came near the place of landing, +George ran into the stream, and as the canoe touched the shore, attacked +Atoi, but in a playful manner, splashing water over him. Thus irritated, +Atoi jumped on land, and, with a double-barrelled musket in his hand, ran +towards his brother, and doubtless would have killed him on the spot, had +he not been prevented. I now saw the advantage of George and his party +being present. He and three of his subjects seized upon Atoi, and tried +to wrest the weapon from his hands, which if they had been able to +effect, a mortal combat could not take place, such being the custom here. +Atoi was a very powerful man of about thirty, and those who attacked him +had a most difficult task; twice he broke from them; and I then watched +the countenance of his brother, which was perfectly cool and collected, +though the firelock was in readiness, and the finger on the trigger, +which might despatch him instantly. All parties sat perfectly quiet +during the desperate struggle; one of the barrels of Atoi's piece went +off, and the contents flew amongst us, without, however, doing any +material injury; and, finally, the musket was wrested out of his hands. +He then sat still for about twenty minutes, to recover his breath, when +he seized a club and rushed upon his brother (for mortal weapons were now +prohibited). The brother started up, armed in the same manner; some heavy +blows passed between them; when, having thrown aside their clubs, they +grappled each other firmly, and a dreadful struggle ensued. As they were +both completely naked, their hair was the only thing to take hold by; but +being long, thick, and strong, it afforded a firm grasp, and they +committed desperate havoc on each other's persons. At this period of the +fight their poor old mother, who was quite blind, came forward to try and +separate the combatants; the sister and younger brothers now followed her +example; and, finally, the fair and frail cause of all this commotion. + +The brothers, having completely exhausted their strength, were easily +separated; and as their friends had carefully removed all weapons out of +their reach, they of course were deprived of the means of injuring each +other. The members of Atoi's family, together with a few friends, now sat +down in a circle, to converse and consult on the affair. Atoi's wife +totally denied the charge, and protested her innocence, and many +circumstances were brought forward to corroborate her statements. The +husband at length was satisfied, and all parties were reconciled. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +THE LAW OF RETALIATION. + + +This affair was scarcely terminated, when we found that another of a +still more serious nature was likely to arise from it and would threaten +the peace of both villages. When King George sent his messenger to inform +Atoi of the infidelity of his wife, the infuriated husband assaulted the +man, and it was rumoured that he had killed him. This was an offence not +to be forgiven, and George was so exasperated by it that he vowed he +would exterminate the whole of Atoi's tribe. A native, however, arrived +with the intelligence that the man was not dead, but only wounded. This +did not seem to allay George's feelings of resentment, and he instantly +made great preparations for war. When our anxiety was wound up to the +utmost, we were greatly astonished to see Atoi and all his friends +approach our settlement, totally unarmed. George went out to meet them, +looking so full of rage that I thought Atoi stood but a slight chance for +his life. After a great deal of violent pantomimic action and grimace, +the apology offered by Atoi was accepted, and the visit was concluded by +a grand war-dance and sham fight performed in their best manner. King +George, in the fulness of his heart at this complete restoration of +friendship, gave a great feast of kumaras and fish, to which we added +some tobacco; and the whole of the party seated themselves by each other +with the utmost sociality--a convincing proof that animosity is not long +an inmate of their breasts. + +I took every opportunity of inquiring into the nature of their laws and +mode of government, and I found that, in general, their method of +redressing wrongs was very summary, and that their ideas of what was +strictly just were, for the most part, simple and equitable. For any +theft, or offence of that sort, committed by one tribe on another, the +parties are called to instant account. If one native takes from another +any part of his possessions, the party injured has a right to retaliate, +and the party retaliated upon must not make the slightest resistance. We +ourselves experienced a proof of this. Some part of our property, which +we supposed had been destroyed by our late fire, we had been told was to +be found in the hut of a neighbouring chief. We one day took advantage of +his absence, searched the hut ourselves, and discovered our things +carefully deposited therein. Thus assured of the fact, we laid our +complaint before King George, who, after hearing our story to the end, +replied, "Well, my friends, you must go to the hut and take away all your +property, and whatever else you may find, which you may think sufficient +payment for the injury you have received." We accordingly proceeded to +the chief's dwelling, whom we found standing at his door. We charged him +with having robbed us, and entered the house to seize our property. He +held down his head, and seemed ashamed and overpowered at this discovery. +He did not attempt to vindicate his conduct, but quietly allowed us not +only to take away all that had belonged to us, but likewise a musket and +double-barrelled gun, which he concluded he had lost for ever. These we +had only taken away temporarily to deter him from theft in future, for a +few days after we brought them back to him, to his infinite delight and +astonishment. + +I was frequently shocked during my residence in this country by the +number of accidents which continually happened to the natives from +gunpowder, and not even the saddest experience could render them more +careful. We were doubtful of the strength of a French fowling-piece we +had, so we loaded it to the muzzle and discharged it, in order to prove +it. Some young chiefs, who saw us do this (approving of this method), as +soon as they returned home loaded a musket in the same manner, and then +discharged it; but not managing the affair as we did--by means of a +string fastened to the trigger--the piece burst, and mangled two of them +dreadfully, and we got greatly blamed for showing them what was +considered so bad an example. + +A few months since a native came from the interior driving a quantity of +pigs to barter for powder; he obtained several pounds' weight, and set +off to return home. On his journey he passed the night in a hut, and for +safety put the bag of powder under his head as a pillow; and as a New +Zealander always sleeps with a fire close to him, the consequence was, in +the course of the night the fire communicated to the powder, and +destroyed the man and the whole of his family, who were journeying with +him. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +A WAR EXPEDITION AND A CANNIBAL FEAST. + + +Last year a chief, and cousin of King George, named Pomare, was defeated +and killed by the people of the Thames, and George was now resolved to +revenge his death. This determination having become known, we had a +constant succession of visitors, and a considerable number of blows, +scratches, and rubbing noses were the consequence. Our beach presented a +most interesting and busy scene. A dozen superb war canoes were lying +ready to convey the forces; and, considering their limited means, the +solidity of their structure and the carved work on them are surprising. +None but men of rank are allowed to work upon them, and they labour like +slaves. Some canoes were to be lengthened; others patched; others were +condemned to be broken up, and the fragments taken to complete the new +ones. Every morning we were awakened by the sound of the hammer and saw, +and they were much gratified by our walking down to their dockyard to +observe the progress they made, and by giving our opinions of their work. +They thankfully received any hint we gave them as to better methods of +completing or proceeding with their operations. Here were carvers, +painters, caulkers, and sailmakers, all working in their different +departments with great good humour and industry. Some of their vessels +were eighty feet long, and were entirely covered with beautiful +carving. Their form was light and delicate, and if their intentions were +hostile towards us, they would be very formidable alongside any merchant +man. If our Government should determine to colonise any part of New +Zealand, they would find the natives hardy and willing assistants, and +very different from the natives of New South Wales. + +[Illustration: Maori War Expedition (With Mission boat accompanying +it.)] + +As their canoes were ready for launching, they ran them off the beach, +jumped into them, and scudded across the bay with an almost incredible +swiftness. When it is considered that in each canoe were seated eighty +stout young men, each with a large paddle in his hand propelling the +vessel forward, the velocity with which she flew may be imagined! It was +in the midst of scenes like these that we were passing our time, and I +had just become delighted with the appearance of innocence and industry +so continually displayed by these people, when I was called upon to +witness a sight which exhibited their character in its worst light, and +confirmed all my horrible suspicions regarding their alleged cannibalism. + +The New Zealanders have been long charged with cannibalism; but as no +person of importance or celebrity had actually been a witness to the +disgusting act, in pity to our nature such relations have been +universally rejected, and much has been written to prove the +non-existence of so hideous a propensity. It was my lot to behold it in +all its horrors! + +One morning, about eleven o'clock, after I had just returned from a long +walk, Captain Duke informed me he had heard, from very good authority +(though the natives wished it to be kept a profound secret), that in the +adjoining village a female slave, named Matowe, had been put to death, +and that the people were at that very time preparing her flesh for +cooking. At the same time he reminded me of a circumstance which had +taken place the evening before. Atoi had been paying us a visit, and, +when going away, he recognised a girl whom he said was a slave that had +run away from him; he immediately seized hold of her, and gave her in +charge to some of his people. The girl had been employed in carrying wood +for us; Atoi's laying claim to her had caused us no alarm for her life, +and we had thought no more on the subject; but now, to my surprise and +horror, I heard this poor girl was the victim they were preparing for the +oven! Captain Duke and myself were resolved to witness this dreadful +scene. We therefore kept our information as secret as possible, well +knowing that if we had manifested our wishes they would have denied the +whole affair. We set out, taking a circuitous route towards the village, +and, being well acquainted with the road, we came upon them suddenly, and +found them in the midst of their abominable ceremonies. + +On a spot of rising ground, just outside the village, we saw a man +preparing a native oven, which is done in the following simple manner:--A +hole is made in the ground, and hot stones are put within it, and then +all is covered up close. As we approached, we saw evident signs of the +murder which had been perpetrated; bloody mats were strewed around, and a +boy was standing by them actually laughing: he put his finger to his +head, and then pointed towards a bush. I approached the bush, and there +discovered a human head. My feelings of horror may be imagined as I +recognised the features of the unfortunate girl I had seen forced from +our village the preceding evening! + +We ran towards the fire, and there stood a man occupied in a way few +would wish to see. He was preparing the four-quarters of a human body for +a feast; the large bones, having been taken out, were thrown aside, and +the flesh being compressed, he was in the act of forcing it into the +oven. While we stood transfixed by this terrible sight, a large dog, +which lay before the fire, rose up, seized the bloody head, and walked +off with it into the bushes, no doubt to hide it there for another meal! +The man completed his task with the most perfect composure, telling us, +at the same time, that the repast would not be ready for some hours! + +Here stood Captain Duke and myself, both witnesses of a scene which many +travellers have related, and their relations have invariably been treated +with contempt; indeed, the veracity of those who had the temerity to +relate such incredible events has been everywhere questioned. In this +instance it was no warrior's flesh to be eaten; there was no enemy's +blood to drink, in order to infuriate them. They had no revenge to +gratify; no plea could they make of their passions having been roused by +battle, nor the excuse that they eat their enemies to perfect their +triumph. This was an action of unjustifiable cannibalism. Atoi, the +chief, who had given orders for this cruel feast, had only the night +before sold us four pigs for a few pounds of powder; so he had not even +the excuse of want of food. After Captain Duke and myself had consulted +with each other, we walked into the village, determining to charge Atoi +with his brutality. + +Atoi received us in his usual manner; and his handsome, open countenance +could not be imagined to belong to so savage a monster as he had proved +himself to be. I shuddered at beholding the unusual quantity of potatoes +his slaves were preparing to eat with this infernal banquet. We talked +coolly with him on the subject, for, as we could not prevent what had +taken place, we were resolved to learn, if possible, the whole +particulars. Atoi at first tried to make us believe he knew nothing about +it, and that it was only a meal for his slaves; but we had ascertained it +was for himself and his favourite companions. After various endeavours to +conceal the fact, Atoi frankly owned that he was only waiting till the +cooking was completed to partake of it. He added that, knowing the horror +we Europeans held these feasts in, the natives were always most anxious +to conceal them from us, and he was very angry that it had come to our +knowledge; but, as he had acknowledged the fact, he had no objection to +talk about it. He told us that human flesh required a greater number of +hours to cook than any other; that if not done enough it was very tough, +but when sufficiently cooked it was as tender as paper. He held in his +hand a piece of paper, which he tore in illustration of his remark. He +said the flesh then preparing would not be ready till next morning; but +one of his sisters whispered in my ear that her brother was deceiving us, +as they intended feasting at sunset. + +We inquired why and how he had murdered the poor girl. He replied that +running away from him to her own relations was her only crime. He then +took us outside his village, and showed us the post to which she had been +tied, and laughed to think how he had cheated her: "For," said he, "I +told her I only intended to give her a flogging; but I fired, and shot +her through the heart!" My blood ran cold at this relation, and I looked +with feelings of horror at the savage while he related it. Shall I be +credited when I again affirm that he was not only a handsome young man, +but mild and genteel in his demeanour? He was a man we had admitted to +our table, and was a general favourite with us all; and the poor victim +to his bloody cruelty was a pretty girl of about sixteen years of age! + +While listening to this frightful detail, we felt sick almost to +fainting. We left Atoi, and again strolled towards the spot where this +disgusting mess was cooking. Not a native was now near it: a hot, fetid +steam kept occasionally bursting from the smothered mass; and the same +dog we had seen with the head now crept from beneath the bushes, and +sneaked towards the village. To add to the gloominess of the whole, a +large hawk rose heavily from the very spot where the poor victim had been +cut in pieces. My friend and I sat gazing on this melancholy place; it +was a lowering, gusty day, and the moaning of the wind through the +bushes, as it swept round the hill on which we were, seemed in unison +with our feelings. + +After some time spent in contemplating the miserable scene before us, +during which we gave full vent to the most passionate exclamations of +disgust, we determined to spoil this intended feast. This resolution +formed, we rose to execute it. I ran off to our beach, leaving Duke on +guard, and, collecting all the white men I could, I informed them of what +had happened, and asked them if they would assist in destroying the oven +and burying the remains of the girl. They consented, and each having +provided himself with a shovel or a pickaxe, we repaired in a body to +the spot. Atoi and his friends had by some means been informed of our +intention, and they came out to prevent it. He used various threats to +deter us, and seemed highly indignant; but as none of his followers +appeared willing to come to blows, and seemed ashamed that such a +transaction should have been discovered by us, we were permitted by them +to do as we chose. We accordingly dug a tolerably deep grave; then we +resolutely attacked the oven. On removing the earth and leaves, the +shocking spectacle was presented to our view--the four quarters of a +human body half roasted. During our work clouds of steam enveloped us, +and the disgust created by our task was almost overpowering. We collected +all the parts we could recognise; the heart was placed separately, we +supposed, as a savoury morsel for the chief himself. We placed the whole +in the grave, which we filled up as well as we could, and then broke and +scattered the oven. + +By this time the natives from both villages had assembled, and a scene +similar to this was never before witnessed in New Zealand. Six unarmed +men, quite unprotected (for there was not a single vessel in the harbour, +nor had there been for a month), had attacked and destroyed all the +preparations of the natives for what they consider a national feast; and +this was done in the presence of a great body of armed chiefs, who had +assembled to partake of it. After having finished this exploit, and our +passion and disgust had somewhat subsided, I could not help feeling that +we had acted very imprudently in thus tempting the fury of these savages, +and interfering in an affair that certainly was no concern of ours; but +as no harm accrued to any of our party, it plainly shows the influence +"the white men" have already obtained over them; had the offence we +committed been done by any hostile tribe, hundreds of lives would have +been sacrificed. + +The next day our old friend King George paid us a long visit, and we +talked over the affair very calmly. He highly disapproved of our conduct. +"In the first place," said he, "you did a foolish thing, which might have +cost you your lives; and yet did not accomplish your purpose after all, +as you merely succeeded in burying the flesh near the spot on which you +found it. After you went away it was again taken up, and every bit was +eaten"--a fact I afterwards ascertained by examining the grave and +finding it empty. King George further said: "It was an old custom, which +their fathers practised before them; and you had no right to interfere +with their ceremonies. I myself," added he, "have left off eating human +flesh, out of compliment to you white men; but you have no reason to +expect the same compliance from all the other chiefs. What punishment +have you in England for thieves and runaways?" We answered, "After trial, +flogging or hanging." "Then," he replied, "the only difference in our +laws is, you flog and hang, but we shoot and eat." + +After thus reproving us, he became very communicative on the subject of +cannibalism. He said, he recollected the time prior to pigs and potatoes +being introduced into the island (an epoch of great importance to the New +Zealanders), and stated that he was born and reared in an inland +district, and the only food they then had consisted of fern roots and +kumara; fish they never saw, and the only flesh he then partook of was +human. But I will no longer dwell on this humiliating subject. Most +white men who have visited the island have been sceptical on this point; +I myself was before I had "ocular proof." Consequently I availed myself +of the first opportunity to convince myself of the fact. I have reflected +upon the subject, and am thoroughly satisfied that nothing will cure the +natives of this dreadful propensity but the introduction of many +varieties of animals, both wild and tame, and all would be sure to thrive +in so mild and fine a climate. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +SLAVERY AMONG THE MAORIS. + + +The scene I have just described brings into consideration the subject of +slavery, as it now exists in New Zealand. That slavery should be the +custom of savage nations and cannibals, is not a cause of wonder: they +are the only class of human beings it ought to remain with. Here slavery +assumes its most hideous shape! Every one they can effect a seizure of in +an enemy's country becomes the slave of the captors. Chiefs are never +made prisoners; they either fight to the last, or are killed on the spot, +and their heads are preserved (by a peculiar method) as trophies. +Children are greatly prized: these they bring to their dwellings, and +they remain slaves for life. Upon the number of slaves a chief can muster +he takes his rank as a man of wealth and consequence in society; and the +only chance these wretched beings have of being released from their +miseries, is their master getting into a rage, and murdering them without +further ceremony. + +On entering a village, a stranger instantly discovers which portion of +its inhabitants are the slaves, though both the complexion and the +dresses of all are alike. The free Zealander is a joyous, good-humoured +looking man, full of laughter and vivacity, and is chattering +incessantly; but the slaves have invariably a squalid, dejected look; +they are never seen to smile, and appear literally half starved. The +beauties characteristic of a New Zealander are his teeth and hair; the +latter, in particular, is his pride and study; but the slaves have their +heads half shorn. The male slave is not allowed to marry; and any +intercourse with a female, if discovered, is generally punished by death. +Never was there a body of men so completely cut off from all society as +these poor slaves; they never can count, with certainty, on a single +moment of life, as the savage caprice of their master may instantly +deprive them of it. If, by chance, a slave should belong to a kind and +good master, an accident happening to him, or any of his family, will +probably prove equally fatal to the slave, as some are generally +sacrificed on the death of a chief. + +Thus these poor slaves are deprived of every hope and stimulus by which +all other classes and individuals are animated; no good conduct of theirs +towards their master, no attachment to his person or family, no fidelity +or long service can ensure kind treatment. If the slave effect his escape +to his own part of the country, he is there treated with contempt; and +when he dies (if a natural death), his body is dragged to the outside of +the village, there to be made sport of by the children, or to furnish +food for the dogs! but more frequently his fate is to receive a fatal +blow in a fit of passion, and then be devoured by his brutal master! Even +the female slaves who, if pretty, are frequently taken as wives by their +conquerors, have not a much greater chance of happiness, all being +dependent upon the caprice of their owners. + +When I can relate anything favourable to the missionaries, I invariably +intend to do so, which will account for the introduction of the +following: A few days since, I paid a visit to one of their settlements, +and noticed a remarkably fine native woman attending as a servant. She +was respectably dressed, and in every respect (except complexion) she was +similar to a European. She spoke English fluently. Upon expressing my +admiration of her, I was informed that this woman had been a slave of +Hongi's, and that about a year previous he had lost one of his sons, and +had determined to sacrifice this poor girl as an atonement. She was +actually bound for the purpose, and nothing but the strong interference +of the whole of the missionary society here could have saved her life. +They exerted themselves greatly, and preserved her; and she had proved a +faithful and valuable servant. + + + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +PIRATICAL SEIZURE OF A VESSEL. + + +Before finally quitting the subject of slavery, I must give an account of +some white men I saw in this state of degradation, and who belonged to a +chief who visited us some weeks since. In the beginning of 1827, the +Government of New South Wales hired the brig Wellington to convey a +number of prisoners to Norfolk Island, most of whom were felons of the +worst description: the greater part were under sentence of banishment for +life. These desperadoes amounted to seventy-four; by far too many for the +size of the brig, as those whose duty is was to guard them, and the crew +of the vessel, were too few to keep them under subjection. When within a +few days' sail of their destination, they rose on the guard, and, after a +desperate struggle, made themselves masters of the vessel, which was a +very fine one, and was well provided with arms and stores of every kind, +amounting to a sufficiency to carry them to any part of the world they +chose. But the machinations of the wicked rarely prosper, and this was +another proof of the truth of the observation; for, after a stormy and +violent debate among themselves, they at length determined to run for the +Bay of Islands, and if any vessel more eligible was there, they were to +take possession of her, and leave the Wellington behind, she having no +register. It is but justice to them to state that they behaved with +humanity to their captives, and no lives were lost: they appointed +officers amongst themselves, and, with the assistance of the deposed +captain, made this port. On their arrival here, they found two English +whalers, the Sisters, Captain Duke, and the Harriet. The commanders, as +is usual on these occasions, went immediately on board the newcomer. +Captain Duke well knew the vessel, having seen her at Sydney; but, of +course, had no idea of what had happened. The pirates received them with +great civility, and deceived them with a false description of their +voyage--of being bound to a southern port with prisoners; and the two +captains, not having the slightest suspicion of who their hosts really +were, passed a very merry evening with these marauders. + +Soon, however, their bad management of the vessel, their want of +discipline, and the general confusion on board, roused a vague suspicion +in the minds of the two captains that all was not "quite right" on board +the Wellington. The real captain, too, had succeeded in conveying a note +to Duke, informing him of his situation, and claiming his assistance to +recapture the brig, and entreating him to release them all from +captivity. + +This communication produced universal alarm, as both the whalers were +quite unprovided for attack or defence, and all the missionary +settlements lay quite at the mercy of this band of pirates. Had the +latter acted with promptness and spirit, they might easily have made +themselves masters of the whole; but while they were arguing and +hesitating where they would make their first attack, the whalers were +actively employed in getting their great guns out of the hold, and in +preparing their vessels for defence; so that, by the time the pirates +came to the resolution to attack them, the whalers were in a good +posture for resistance, and finally became the assailants. Aided by the +prompt assistance of the natives, the whole of these outlaws were taken +into custody, with the exception of six. The extreme interest the savages +took in capturing these deluded men was truly astonishing. When they were +made to understand that these were King George's (of England) slaves, who +had broken loose, they knew, from their own laws, that they ought to be +taken, and they displayed a great deal of courage and address in +approaching and securing them. + +The pirates (having many passengers and others in their power) stipulated +that they should be landed at Kororarika, unmolested by any of the +English. This was granted; but no sooner were they left by themselves +than a party of natives came forward, seized and bound them, stripped off +their clothes, and, after dressing themselves up in them, conducted their +prisoners on board the whalers; but notwithstanding the anxiety of the +whalers to secure the whole, and the activity of the natives, six of them +found means to elude the search, and here they now are. + +The day on which our houses were burned, these six landed in the train of +one of the chiefs; and I have since entertained a suspicion that it was +their desire of revenge that occasioned the destruction of our property +at the time the calamity happened. I chanced to be in the house alone, +and was amazed by seeing an Englishman enter the hut with his face +tattooed all over. Not being aware he was one of the runaways from the +Wellington, I spoke to him. He slunk into our cooking-house on pretence +of lighting his pipe, and before ten minutes had elapsed, the house was +in flames. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +THE CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. + + +The summer was now far advanced, and never, during its progress, had we +been incommoded by any very hot weather. Our house was generally crowded +with visitors: for, as it was the workmanship of King George and his +people, they were prodigiously proud of it, and each seemed to think he +had an undoubted right to sit in it as much as he liked. This, at times, +we felt as a great annoyance; but we were obliged to be very cautious not +to say or do anything that should give offence to them, as all were +exceedingly irritable, and we felt it to be most essential to our comfort +to continue on friendly terms with them. + +Although we were situated in the same latitude as Sydney, we found the +climate of New Zealand infinitely superior. Moderate heats and +beautifully clear skies succeeded each other every day. We were quite +free from those oppressive, feverish heats which invariably prevail in +the middle of the day at Sydney, and from those hot pestilential winds +which are the terror of the inhabitants of New South Wales; nor were we +subject to those long droughts, which are often the ruin of the +Australian farmer. The temperature here was neither too hot nor too cold, +neither too wet nor too dry. Reflecting on this country--its situation, +inhabitants, and climate--I felt convinced that, if it were the object of +our Government to form a new colony, they could not select a more +desirable spot than New Zealand. When we left Sydney, a disease was +raging there of a most disagreeable nature, namely, catarrh. As usual, it +affected strongly the eyes and nose, and generally proved fatal to the +very old and to children. We found the poor natives here subject to the +same complaint, which they called the "Murray," or "Murraybad"; and they +declared they caught it from us Europeans. + +I could scarcely refrain from laughing while witnessing the strange +methods they adopted to effect a cure. Sometimes they would envelope +their heads entirely in green leaves, at other times they would almost +roast themselves in a heated hut; but their universal remedy, and the one +they generally found successful, was starvation, which is, in fact, the +doctor who cures them of all the diseases the Europeans have imported +amongst them: and, I confess, I have often been amazed at their rapid +recovery from maladies which I should have thought incurable. The other +day I asked the opinion of a clever medical man, who came here with one +of the whalers, and he informed me the only cases he had met with amongst +the natives, which terminated fatally, were a few instances of +consumption. + +After the novelty of our savage life began to wear away, I rambled much +about the country, in order to form some judgment of its capability of +improvement. I never possessed any practical knowledge of farming, and +therefore cannot give a scientific opinion or description of the +different soils. In whatever direction I travelled, and at this time I +had crossed the country in various directions several times, the soil +appeared to me to be fat and rich, and also well watered. From every +part of it which the natives have cultivated, the produce has been +immense. Here, where the finest samples of the human race are to be +found, the largest and finest timber grows, and every vegetable (yet +planted) thrives, the introduction of European grasses, fruits, etc., +etc., would be a great desideratum. Were this done, in a very short time +farms would be more eagerly sought after here than they now are in New +South Wales. All the fruits and plants hitherto introduced by the +missionary establishments have succeeded wonderfully. Peaches and water +melons now were in full season; the natives brought baskets full of them +to our door every day, which they exchanged with us for the merest +trifles, such as a fish-hook, or a button. + +Indian corn was likewise very abundant, but as the natives did not +possess any means or knowledge of grinding it, they were not aware of its +full value. Their only method of cooking it was one very disgusting to +Europeans. They soaked the ear in water till it was quite soft and sour, +the smell from which was exceedingly offensive; they then placed it in +their earth ovens to bake, and when they partook of it they seemed to +enjoy it very much. + +In one of my journeys across the island I was accompanied by my Scotch +friend, Mr. Shand, who prided himself very much upon his general +knowledge of agricultural pursuits; and when I indulged in some sudden +bursts of admiration at the beauty of the surrounding prospect, he would +invariably check my enthusiasm, by observing that no animals could +possibly live in a country so overgrown with fern, and where no grass was +indigenous. These observations, often repeated, obliged me to qualify my +admiration of this picturesque and beautiful land; but my surprise, and I +may say my triumph, were complete when, on approaching the missionary +village of Kirikiri, we fell in with a herd of at least a hundred fat +cattle, browsing on the sides of the hill, and having nothing else but +this very fern to eat; and, on inquiry, we found they gave as good milk, +and were in as healthy a condition, as when they grazed on the rich +grasses of Lincolnshire. + +My friend, Captain Duke, made great preparations for the return of his +ships, and purchased many pigs to be salted. The self-denial of the +natives is wonderful: though very fond of animal food, they sell the +whole to us Europeans for the means of war; thus conquering the appetite +for the purpose of possessing arms to make them terrible in the sight of +their enemies. This feeling, properly directed, may lead to their +becoming a great nation. In the course of our saltings and picklings of +pork, owing to the warmth of the weather, a considerable quantity was +spoiled. I recommended its being immediately thrown into the sea, but +Duke, who knew the propensities of the people better than I did, and +wished to ingratiate himself among them, sent for some of his favourites, +and presented them with the damaged meat, with which they marched off +highly delighted, and made a public feast of it in the evening. + +[Illustration: New Zealand Method of Tattooing. (From a sketch by +A. Earle.)] + + + + +CHAPTER XXXII. + +THE ART OF TATTOOING. + + +The art of tattooing has been brought to such perfection here, that +whenever we have seen a New Zealander whose skin is thus ornamented, we +have admired him. It is looked upon as answering the same purposes as +clothes. When a chief throws off his mats, he seems as proud of +displaying the beautiful ornaments figured on his skin as a first-rate +exquisite is in exhibiting himself in his last fashionable attire. It is +an essential part of war-like preparations. The whole of this district of +Kororarika was preparing for the approaching war. Their canoes, muskets, +powder and balls, increased daily; and a very ingenious artist, called +Aranghie, arrived to carry on this important branch of his art, which was +soon placed in requisition, for all the mighty men in the neighbourhood +were one by one under his operating hands. + +As this "professor" was a near neighbour of mine, I frequently paid him a +visit in his "studio," and he returned the compliment whenever he had +time to spare. He was considered by his countrymen a perfect master in +the art of tattooing, and men of the highest rank and importance were in +the habit of travelling long journeys in order to put their skins under +his skilful hands. Indeed, so highly were his works esteemed, that I have +seen many of his drawings exhibited even after death. A neighbour of mine +very lately killed a chief who had been tattooed by Aranghie, and, +appreciating the artist's work so highly, he skinned the chieftain's +thighs, and covered his cartouch box with it. + +I was astonished to see with what boldness and precision Aranghie drew +his designs upon the skin, and what beautiful ornaments he produced; no +rule and compasses could be more exact than the lines and circles he +formed. So unrivalled is he in his profession, that a highly-finished +face of a chief from the hands of this artist is as greatly prized in New +Zealand as a head from the hands of Sir Thomas Lawrence is amongst us. It +was most gratifying to behold the respect these savages pay to the fine +arts. This "professor" was merely a _kooky_ or slave, but by skill and +industry he raised himself to an equality with the greatest men of his +country; and as every chief who employed him always made him some +handsome present, he soon became a man of wealth, and was constantly +surrounded by such important personages as Pungho Pungho, Ruky Ruky, Kivy +Kivy, Aranghy Tooker, etc., etc. My friend Shulitea (King George) sent +him every day the choicest things from his own table. Though thus basking +in the full sunshine of court favour, Aranghie, like a true genius, was +not puffed up with pride by his success, for he condescended to come and +take tea with me almost every evening. He was delighted with my drawings, +particularly with a portrait I made of him. He copied so well, and seemed +to enter with such interest into the few lessons of painting I gave him, +that if I were returning from here direct to England, I would certainly +bring him with me, as I look upon him as a great natural genius. + +[Illustration: Specimens of Tattooed Faces and Thigh. (From "Expedition +de l'Astrolabe.")] + +One of the important personages who came to the village to employ the +talent of our artist was a _Mr_. Rooky Rooky (and he was always very +particular in remembering the _Mister_); he brought four of his wives +with him, leaving six more at home (polygamy in New Zealand being allowed +to any extent). One of this man's wives was a little girl not more than +ten years of age, and she excited a great deal of interest amongst us, +which, when he discovered, he became very anxious to dispose of her to +any of us. He importuned us incessantly on the subject, saying she was +his slave, and offered her in exchange for a musket. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIII. + +TRIBAL GOVERNMENT AND RELIGION. + + +Though from my increased knowledge of the language, I was enabled to hold +longer conversations, I could not discover that the New Zealanders had +any universal form of government: there appeared to me to be no public +bodies, or any functionaries employed by the people. Each chief seemed to +possess absolute power over his own slaves, and there his authority +terminated. Wealth made him feared by his foes, but gave him no influence +over his friends. All offence offered to any one of a tribe (or clan) is +instantly followed by some act of retaliation by the aggrieved party; and +if one tribe is too weak to contend against the one from whom they have +received the injury, they call in the aid of another. But should the +offence be of a very aggravated nature, and several families be injured +by it, a meeting of the chiefs is called. They assemble in one of their +forts, and, after a discussion, decide either for an amicable adjustment, +or for an exterminating war. Thus these misguided beings are continually +destroying each other for some imaginary insult. + +I became acquainted with a few venerable men of truly noble and +praiseworthy characters, such as would do honour to any age, country, or +religion. They had passed their whole lives in travelling from one +chieftain's residence to another, for the purpose of endeavouring to +explain away insults, to offer apologies, and to strive by every means +in their power to establish peace between those about to plunge their +country into the horrors of war. I have several times met these +benevolent men journeying through the country on these pacific missions; +and twice during my residence here they have been the happy means of +preventing bloodshed. Although the New Zealander is so fond of war, and +possesses such war-like manners, yet are these peacemakers held in the +highest respect, although they do not hold any sacred function--indeed, +no order of priesthood exists amongst the natives. I have never +discovered any symptoms of religion in these people, except it consists +in a great variety of absurd and superstitious ceremonies. Before I +visited this island I used to imagine, from seeing so great a variety of +carved figures which had been brought from this country, that they were +idols, to whom they paid their devotions; but in this I was deceived. +They were merely the grotesque carvings of rude artists, possessing a +lively fancy, and were a proof of their industry as well as genius. Every +chief's house is adorned with an abundance of these carved monsters. One +of their favourite subjects is a lizard taking hold of the top of a man's +head; their tradition being that that was the origin of man. The lizard +is sacred, and never injured by them. Several of their chiefs assured me +they believed in the existence of a great and invisible spirit, called +Atna, who keeps a constant charge and watch over them; and that they are +constantly looking out for tokens of his approbation or displeasure. +There is not a wind that blows but they imagine it bears some message +from him. And there are not wanting crafty men who pretend to a much more +intimate knowledge of his sentiments than the generality, and they easily +work on the minds of the credulous and the ignorant. These imposters +obtain great consideration, and their counsel and advice is most +anxiously sought after by those about to undertake any important +business; but, like ancient astrologers and modern gypsies, they speak +only in ambiguous terms; so that whatever may be the result, their +prediction may still correspond with it. + +Like all rude and ignorant people, the New Zealanders seem more to fear +the wrath of their God than to love his attributes; and constant +sacrifices (too often human ones) are offered up to appease his anger. +They imagine that the just and glorious Deity is ever ready to destroy, +and that His hand is always stretched forth to execute vengeance. + +These sacred, or, more correctly speaking, these "cunning" men and women, +who pretend to see into futurity, and to hold an intercourse with the +Great Spirit, are here (in one way, at least) turned to a good and useful +account. As they themselves are held sacred, everything they wish to have +taken particular care of, they can render sacred also. All the chiefs +find these people of the greatest use in protecting their property, for +they possess the power of tabooing, and when once this ceremony is +performed over any person or thing, no one dares to touch either; and for +a sufficiently good bribe they will impart their sacred power to any +chief, who, by means of this device, thus can protect a field of potatoes +or grain, at fifty miles distance from his settlement, more securely and +effectually than by any fences, or number of persons he might place to +guard it. + +This ceremony of taboo, which is common to the whole of the South Sea +Islands, seems the principal part of their religion, and it is really +difficult to walk without trespassing or infringing on some spot under +this influence. All those who touch a corpse are immediately taboo'd, and +must be fed like an infant, as their own hands must not touch anything +that is put into their mouths. In fact, as we strolled through the +village at the time of their evening repast, it appeared as though some +dreadful disease had suddenly struck the greater part of the inhabitants, +and deprived them of the use of their limbs, most of them being either +fed by their slaves, or lying flat down on the ground, and with their +mouths eating out of their platters or baskets. The canoe that carries a +corpse to the place of its interment is, from that time, taboo'd and laid +up; and if any one by chance touches it, he does so at his peril. + +All those chiefs who were under the operating hands of Aranghie, the +tatooer, were under this law, and all those who worked upon their war +canoes were similarly situated. Unfortunately for me, I one day took away +a handful of chips from their dockyard to make our fire burn clearly. I +was informed they were taboo'd, and upon my pleading ignorance, and +sorrow for the misdemeanour, together with a promise not to renew the +offence, I was pardoned. A poor hen of ours did not escape so well; she, +poor thing, ventured to form a nest, and actually hatched a fine family +of chickens amongst these sacred shavings! Loud was the outcry, and great +the horror she occasioned when she marched forth cackling, with her merry +brood around her. She and "all her little ones" were sacrificed +instantly. What became of their bodies we could never learn; probably the +workmen were not too fastidious to eat them. + +I have observed, since my residence here, one circumstance which proves a +kind feeling in the natives, and shows they are not averse to the +preaching of the missionaries, or the doctrines they inculcate. + +It was the custom of all the Europeans settled here, on the beach at +Kororarika, to refrain from all kinds of work on the Sabbath; to shave, +and dress themselves in their best habiliments; and if any of the +missionaries came over, they went forth to meet them, and hear divine +service. Several of the natives generally assembled and witnessed the +ceremony; and as they observed it came every seventh day, they called it +"the white taboo'd day, when the pakeha (or white men) put on clean +clothes, and leave off work;" and, strange to say, the natives also +abstained from working on that day. Nothing could induce them to the +contrary; not that we wished to persuade them to work, but merely +endeavoured so to do to ascertain the strength of their politeness. Not a +bit of work would they do upon a Sunday, although it was a critical time +with them; for all the chiefs were unprepared with their war canoes for +the approaching expedition. At length we discovered that their cunning +was as conspicuous as their politeness. They had observed we generally +lay longer in bed on a Sunday morning than any other; they accordingly +were up by break of day, and had completed many hours' work before we +made our appearance; but the moment one of us did appear the work was +instantly left off. This degree of outward respect, though craftily +managed, was infinitely more than could be reasonably expected from a +rude and turbulent savage. It is mere respect than we Europeans pay to +any religious ceremony we do not understand. Even their taboo'd grounds +would not be so respected by us, if we were not quite certain they +possessed the power instantly to revenge any affront offered to their +sacred places. + +Of all animals introduced by the Europeans, the most unserviceable, and +indeed injurious, have been the dogs. They have increased rapidly; every +spot was crowded with poor half-starved curs, that were all night long +committing depredations on the poultry, pigs, and goats; and if some +effectual means of diminishing this pernicious breed is not soon resorted +to, the island will be cleared of every other quadruped. Goats were +beginning to increase, and the craggy heights round the bays formed a +favourite retreat for these interesting wanderers. Captain Duke put +himself to great expense and trouble, and effected the importation of +some sheep from Van Diemen's Land; but the dogs soon destroyed them all. + + +THE MASSACRE OF THE FRENCH NAVIGATOR MARION AND PARTY. + +Our friend George generally paid us a visit after the business of the day +was over, and took a cup of tea; wine or grog he detested: so, while he +sipped his beverage, we lit our pipes, and managed, with our slight +knowledge of his language, together with his imperfect English, to keep +up a sort of conversation. Sometimes this was rather wearisome; but +occasionally it became interesting in the extreme. He told us that, when +Captain Cook touched here, he was a little child; but that his mother +(old Turero, who was then with him) remembered his coming well. The +French navigator, Marion, he recollected perfectly, and made one of the +party that murdered him and his people. His observation was, "They were +all brave men; but they were killed and eaten." + +He assured us that the catastrophe was quite unpremeditated. Marion's +entire ignorance of the customs of the New Zealanders occasioned that +distressing event: as I have before observed, that strangers, not +acquainted with their religious prejudices, are likely to commit some +fatal error; and no action is more likely to lead a party into danger +than an incautious use of the seine, for most of the beaches (best suited +for that purpose) are taboo'd. This led to the dreadful fate of Marion +and his party. I understood from George, that when Marion's men assembled +to trail their net on the sacred beach, the natives used every kind of +entreaty and remonstrance to induce them to forbear, but, either from +ignorance or obstinacy, they persisted in their intentions, and drew +their net to land. + +The natives, greatly incensed by this act of impiety, vowed revenge; and +the suspicions of the French not being roused, an opportunity soon +presented itself of taking ample retaliation. The seine being very heavy, +the French required the assistance of the natives in drawing it on shore. +These wily fellows instantly consented to the task, and placed themselves +alternately between each Frenchman, apparently, to equalise the work. +Consequently, in the act of pulling, each native had a white man before +him; and, on an appointed signal, the brains of each European were +knocked out by a tremendous blow of the stone hatchet. + +Captain Marion, who, from his ship, was an eye-witness of these horrid +murders, instantly hastened on shore with the remainder of his crew to +avenge the slaughter of his countrymen. Led on more by ardour than +prudence, he suffered himself to be surrounded; was overpowered by +numbers, defeated, and every one was put to death! + +This account of George's does not, I acknowledge, exactly agree with the +published narrative of that unfortunate event, nor does his age agree +with the dates. Only a few years elapsed between the time of Cook and +Marion, yet he declares himself to have been a child at the death of the +navigator, and a man at the murder of the latter; but as it was voluntary +on his part to give me the above detail, and even if he were not present +himself, he most probably had the facts from one who was, I thought it +worth inserting, as tending to throw light on one of the most melancholy +events which ever took place on these coasts. + +George also related to me the dreadful tragedy of the ship Boyd, and, +horrible as these relations were, I felt a particular interest, almost +amounting to pleasure, in hearing them related by an eye-witness; one who +had been an actor in those bloody scenes which I had before read of: +narratives which from my very childhood had always possessed particular +charms for me; and at this time I was not only looking on the very spot +the hero of my imagination, Cook, had trod, but was hearing the tale from +one who had actually seen him; and was listening to every particular +concerning the transactions of Marion and his men, as though they had +just taken place. + +Even in the dreadful destruction of the Boyd, George laid the blame +entirely on the English, and spoke with great bitterness of the +ill-treatment of Philip, the native chief, who came as passenger in the +ship. He described and mimicked his cleaning shoes and knives; his being +flogged when he refused to do this degrading work; and, finally, his +speech to his countrymen when he came on shore, soliciting their +assistance in capturing the vessel, and revenging his ill-treatment. Over +and over again our friend George, having worked up his passion by a full +recollection of the subject, went through the whole tragedy. The scene +thus portrayed was interesting although horrible. No actor, trained in +the strictest rules of his art, could compete with George's vehemence of +action. The flexibility of his features enabled him to vary the +expression of each passion; and he represented hatred, anger, horror, and +the imploring of mercy so ably that, in short, one would have imagined he +had spent his whole life in practising the art of imitation. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIV. + +THE MAORI VIEW OF CHRISTIANITY. + + +I frequently conversed with George upon the subject of religion, and from +what he told me I found that the natives had not formed the slightest +idea of there being a state of future punishment. They refuse to believe +that the good Spirit intends to make them miserable after their decease. +They imagine all the actions of this life are punished here, and that +every one when dead, good or bad, bondsman or free, is assembled on an +island situated near the North Cape, where both the necessaries and +comforts of life will be found in the greatest abundance, and all will +enjoy a state of uninterrupted happiness. A people of their simple +habits, and possessing so little property, have but few temptations to +excesses of any kind, excepting the cruelties practised by them in war, +in which they fancy themselves perfectly justified, and the tyranny +exercised by them over their slaves, whom they look upon as mere +machines. There is, in fact, but little crime among them, for which +reason they cannot imagine any man wicked enough to deserve eternal +punishment. This opinion of theirs we saw an illustration of one Sunday, +when one of the missionaries paid us a visit. + +The ceremony of all assembling to public worship astonished the natives +greatly, though they always behaved with the utmost decorum when admitted +into the house where the ceremony takes place. On the day in question +the minister endeavoured to explain the sacred mysteries of our religion +to a number of the chiefs who were present. They listened attentively to +all he said, and expressed no doubts as to its truth, only remarking that +"as all these wonderful circumstances happened only in the country of the +white men, the great Spirit expected the white men only to believe them." +The missionary then began to expatiate on the torments of hell, at which +some of them seemed horrified, but others said "they were quite sure such +a place could only be made for the white faces, for they had no men half +wicked enough in New Zealand to be sent there;" but when the reverend +gentleman added with vehemence that "all men" would be condemned, the +savages all burst into a loud laugh, declaring "they would have nothing +to do with a God who delighted in such cruelties; and then (as a matter +of right) hoped the missionary would give them each a blanket for having +taken the trouble of listening to him so patiently." + +I cannot forbear censuring the missionaries, inasmuch as they prevent the +natives, by every means in their power, from acquiring the English +language. They make a point of mastering the native tongue as quickly as +possible, and being able to give their whole time and attention to it, +this is easily accomplished. It is of importance that they should do so, +otherwise they could not carry on the duties of the mission; but by thus +engrossing the knowledge, they obtain great influence over the minds of +the natives. We ourselves were sadly puzzled by a correspondence we had +with two native chiefs, who had been taught to read and write by some of +the Society; but their acquirements being in their native language, were +of no possible use. The difficulty of teaching them English would not +have been greater, and then what stores of information and improvement +might not their instructors have laid open to them. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXV. + +THREATENED INVASION BY HONGI. + + +We had passed some months here, and were beginning to look out for the +return of our brig, to take us again into civilised society, when we were +once more thrown into alarm by a threatened invasion. A rumour was +circulated in the village that Hongi, who now lay at the point of death, +had declared that he would make one last glorious effort before he +expired. He was resolved (it was reported) to collect his warriors, +overcome George and his followers, possess himself of Kororarika, and die +upon the conquered territory of his enemy; and I had no doubt that in his +moment of delirium such had been his exclamations, as it had always been +one of his favourite projects. When this was reported to George, he +immediately came to us, and with a most doleful countenance told us we +must take care of ourselves; for, if the report proved true, he was much +too weak to protect us. This certainly caused us some alarm, but, +fortunately for us, a good-sized whaler, the Marianne, was then lying at +anchor in the port, having arrived but a few days previously. The +presence of a ship, all over the world, is felt as a protection to +Europeans, as in case of danger it is a sure place of refuge. + +King George sent off his messengers in every direction to inform his +friends and dependants of the threats uttered against him by Hongi, and +the next day eight large war canoes, filled with warriors, came to his +assistance. They landed at some distance from the beach, and, as it was +late in the day, they would not make their public _entree_ till the next +morning; for the New Zealanders are very fond of giving a grand effect to +all their public meetings. I determined to pay them a visit, to witness +the ceremonies of the night bivouack, which proved a most picturesque +scene, and wild and beautiful in the extreme. Their watch fires glanced +upon the dark skins of these finely formed men, and on their bright +weapons. Some groups were dancing; others were lying round a fire, +chanting wild songs, descriptive of former wars; whilst the graver elders +sat in a circle, and discussed the present state of affairs. All were +delighted to see me, and each group offered to share their fire and +provisions with the "white visitor," as they termed me. + +The next morning these auxiliary forces were seen descending the hills to +our village; and, in order to return the compliment, we all went in our +best array to receive them. There were upwards of two hundred athletic, +naked savages, each armed with his firelock, and marching with the utmost +regularity. The chiefs took the lead. The alarm such a sight might have +created was dissipated by the certainty that they came as our protectors. +I even imagined their countenances were not so ferocious as usual but as +they approached near to our party, the usual sham fight began, +accompanied by the war dance, and although I expected it, and indeed had +come for the purpose of witnessing it, it was conducted with so much fury +on both sides, that at length I became quite horrified, and for some +time could not divest myself of the feeling that our visitors were +playing false, so closely did this mock combat resemble a real one. The +dreadful noises, the hideous faces, the screeching of the women, and the +menacing gestures of each party, were so calculated to inspire terror, +that stouter hearts than mine might have felt fear. When the tumult +subsided, the elder chiefs squatted down, and had the long talk usual on +these occasions. + +I was much delighted to recognise among these chiefs one I had known at +Sydney. During his residence in that city I had permitted him to remain +in my house, and the few presents which he had requested on his return to +his own country I had provided him with, and sent him off delighted and +happy, and never expected to behold him again. The moment I approached he +recollected me, jumped up from the "council," ran up to me, hugged me in +his arms, and rubbed noses so forcibly with me that I felt his friendship +for some time, besides being daubed all over most plentifully with red +ochre, which he, being then on a war-like and ceremonious visit, was +smeared with from head to foot. + +When my savage friend (whom we used to call Mr. Tookee) had overcome his +first burst of delight at seeing me, and had literally left off jumping +for joy, he introduced me to his father, Mr. De Frookee, the chief of his +tribe, a very fine specimen of an old New Zealander, who was (I found) +highly respected for his integrity and benevolence. His eyes overflowed +with tears when he heard I was the person who had shown such kindness to +his son at Sydney. I soon felt quite "at home" with the old chief, and +experienced the good effect of having kept my word with this uncultivated +savage. I had, at the time I presented him with the gifts, been much +laughed at by my acquaintances at Sydney for putting myself to such +unnecessary expense; but, from the gratitude he displayed for the +trifling services I had then rendered him, I felt assured he and his +companions would do all in their power to protect me from every danger. + +A long discussion was now carried on, one speaker at a time occupying the +oblong space round which the warriors sat, and the more animated the +debate, the faster ran the speaker to and fro, flourishing his hatchet in +a most dexterous manner. The instant one speaker finishes, another starts +up to answer him; but previous to rising they throw a mat or blanket over +their shoulders, and arrange it most tastefully around them; and, as +their attitudes are all striking and graceful, and a great part of the +figure is left exposed, it forms a study for an artist, well worth his +going many miles to witness, and invariably reminded me of the fine +models of antiquity. + +As a painter, I conceive that this must have been the great secret of the +perfection to which the Greek and Roman sculptors brought their works; as +they constantly contemplated the display of the human form in all its +beauty in their various gymnastic exercises, which enabled them to +transfer to marble such ease and elegance as we, living in an age of +coats and breeches, never shall be able to rival. + +After the important subjects had been settled by the elders, the young +men assembled without their weapons, and began another kind of sham +fight, one grappling with another, till hundreds of them were locked in +each other's arms, and were flung in heaps in every direction. After +they were tired of this pastime, a regular ring was formed, and a +wrestling match began, which was carried on in as regular and fair a +manner as a boxing match in our own country, and as much skill and +cunning were displayed in the art of throwing as the greatest connoisseur +would desire. I was pleased, also, to observe that, whatever happened +(and some most severe throws and blows passed), nothing could disturb +their good humour. + +This party, having remained for seven days on our beach, and not hearing +anything more of our intended invaders, their provisions also becoming +rather scarce, took leave in order to return to their own district, +placing scouts to give them quick intelligence of the movements of the +enemy. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVI. + +ARRIVAL OF A WARSHIP. + + +A few days after the departure of this friendly tribe, a "King's ship" of +eighteen guns arrived in the Bay; consequently all our fears of an +immediate invasion were over. No sooner had she cast anchor than our +friend George came to us, expressing the greatest anxiety to visit King +George of England's warship, and requesting we would accompany him, which +we readily agreed to do; and he left us to adorn himself for the +occasion. Soon after he reappeared in great state. A very splendid +war-mat was thrown over his shoulders; his hair was dressed, oiled, and +decorated with feathers, and his person was plentifully covered with red +ochre: he appeared a very fine-looking fellow: his mother, his three +wives, and all his sons and daughters were dressed in equal magnificence, +and accompanied him. + +In this state we went off to visit the vessel; but the moment I came +alongside, I repented my being there, for the rude and churlish manner in +which we were received distressed me considerably. In the first place, an +order was given that none but the chief himself should be allowed to come +on board; consequently his wives and daughters were obliged to remain in +the canoe. The captain spoke only a few words to George, who was allowed +to remain but a few minutes in the cabin; on getting up to take leave, +George took off his fine war-mantle and presented it to the captain; but, +receiving no other covering in return for his gift, he went on shore +naked! The officers of the vessel behaved differently: they conducted us +all down into the gun-room, where they treated us most kindly, and paid +every attention to our friend George, whose dignity was deeply wounded by +the cool and contemptuous behaviour of the captain. + +How greatly is it to be regretted that some arrangements are not made by +our Government at Home, and that there are not orders given to commanders +of ships of war touching here to pay attention to the chiefs, and to make +some trifling presents amongst them; for there never were a people more +anxious to cultivate a friendly intercourse with British subjects than +the inhabitants of New Zealand: and yet there is scarcely a Government +vessel that puts into port here but the natives receive some insult, +though they are sent for the express purpose of supporting the dignity of +the English nation, and to cultivate the amicable feelings of the chiefs. + +When a "King's ship" comes to anchor, the chiefs (with all the glee of +children going to a fair) collect together their wives, children, and +friends, and pay a visit to the "fighting ships," to see King George's +warriors (as they call them): when they come alongside they are kept off +by an armed sentry; and, after a long parley, they are informed the chief +may come, but his family and friends must not. In this case, the natives +generally spit at the vessel, and, uttering execrations on their +inhospitality, return on shore. + +One of the savage chieftains who accompanied us to the vessel in +question, on our way back remarked, "that the white warriors were +_afraid_ of admitting them, though they were unarmed and but a few; while +the warriors in the ships were many, and armed with their great guns." + +Living entirely amongst these people so long as I had done, I felt the +absurdity of such conduct, and the folly of treating them so harshly. If +ever individuals are so situated as to need either the esteem or the +confidence of savages, they must bear with their prying and childish +curiosity, and not be afraid of treating them too kindly; by this means +they become the quietest and gentlest creatures in the world; but, if +treated with contumely, and their wives and families repulsed from your +ship, they become dangerous, vindictive, and cruel neighbours, as many a +dreadful deed which has taken place in this vicinity will fully prove. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVII. + +THE WHALERS AND THE MISSIONARIES. + + +The South Sea whalers are the ships the natives are the most anxious to +see on their coasts; and it is the crews of those vessels who have, in a +manner, civilised these hardy islanders. Captain Gardiner, of the +Marianne (the vessel now in the harbour), is the oldest person in that +trade; and he informed me, that not longer than twenty years back +scarcely any vessel would dare to touch at New Zealand; and when, from +particular circumstances, they were obliged so to do, they kept their +boarding-nettings up, and kept a strict guard night and day: their fears +arose from a want of knowledge of the disposition of the people. The +vessels frequenting the island use no precautions now: hundreds of +natives are permitted to crowd on board each ship; and no accident has +ever occurred from this mode of treatment. But when a ship of war arrives +here for the first time, the precautions taken are, to arm the row-guard +with cutlasses and pistols, and to harass the crew with constant +watching, while the only enemy that exists is in their own imaginations. +To the courage and enterprise of the commanders of whalers all credit is +due for working the rapid change in these once bloody-minded savages, and +forming safe and commodious harbours for their vessels to refit in: this +have they done in a part of the world lately looked upon with horror. +What credit soever the missionaries may take to themselves, or try to +make their supporters in England believe, every man who has visited this +place, and will speak his mind freely and disinterestedly, must +acknowledge _they_ have had no share in bringing about this change of +character; but, on the contrary, they have done all that in them lay to +injure the reputation of the whaler in the estimation of the natives. +Hitherto they have not succeeded: their want of hospitality and kindness +to their own countrymen raises a strong dislike to them in the minds of +these unsophisticated people. According to their simple notions of right +and wrong, they think the want of hospitality an unpardonable offence, +and that the counsel or advice of a man who shuts his door against his +neighbour is not worthy of being attended to. + +I will give the reader one more anecdote of these men, who are sent out +to set an example of the beauty of the Christian faith to the +unenlightened heathens. A few weeks since, the festival of Christmas took +place; and Englishmen, in whatever part of the world they chance to be, +make a point of assembling together on that day, our recollections then +being associated with "home" and our families, uniting to spend that day +in mutual congratulations and wishes for happiness. For some time +previous to its arrival, the captains of the two whalers and myself had +been deliberating where we should spend this social day; and it was +finally settled that we should cross the bay to Te Puna, a beautiful and +romantic spot, the residence of an intelligent chief, called Warri Pork, +and an Englishman, named Hanson. Near this was a church missionary +establishment; and at this Englishman's house we determined we would +spend the day. The captains of the two whalers then in the harbour +joined our party; and as everyone contributed his share towards our +picnic feast, the joint stock made altogether a respectable appearance. + +We proceeded to Te Puna in two whaleboats: it was a most delightful trip, +the scenery being strikingly beautiful. The village of Ranghe Hue, +belonging to Warri Pork, is situated on the summit of an immense and +abrupt hill: the huts belonging to the savages appeared, in many places, +as though they were overhanging the sea, the height being crowned with a +mighty pah. At the bottom of this hill, and in a beautiful valley, the +cottages of the missionaries are situated, complete pictures of English +comfort, content, and prosperity; they are close to a bright sandy beach: +a beautiful green slope lies in their rear, and a clear and never-failing +stream of water runs by the side of their enclosures. As the boats +approached this lovely spot, I was in an ecstasy of delight: such a happy +mixture of savage and civilised life I had never seen before; and when I +observed the white smoke curling out of the chimneys of my countrymen, I +anticipated the joyful surprise, the hearty welcome, the smiling faces, +and old Christmas compliments that were going to take place, and the +great pleasure it would give our secluded countrymen to meet us, in these +distant regions, at this happy season, and talk of our relatives and +friends in England. + +My romantic notions were soon crushed; our landing gave no pleasure to +these secluded Englishmen: they gave us no welcome; but, as our boats +approached the shore, they walked away to their own dwellings, closed +their gates and doors after them, and gazed at us through their windows; +and during three days that we passed in a hut quite near them, they +never exchanged one word with any of the party. Thus foiled in our hopes +of spending a social day with our compatriots, after our dinner was over +we sent materials for making a bowl of punch up the hill to the chiefs, +and spent the remainder of the day surrounded by generous savages, who +were delighted with our company, and who did everything in their power to +make us comfortable. In the course of the afternoon two of the mission +came up to preach; but the savages were so angry with them for not +showing more kindness to their own countrymen, that none would listen to +them. + +I have visited many of the Roman Catholic missionary establishments; +their priests adopt quite a different line of conduct: they are cheerful +and kind to the savage pagan, and polite and attentive to their European +brethren; they have gained the esteem of those they have been sent to +convert; they have introduced their own language amongst them, which +enables them to have intercourse with strangers; and, however we may +differ in some tenets of religious belief, we must acknowledge the +success of their mission. They have brought nearly the whole of the +Indian population in South America into the bosom of their church; and +their converts form the greater part of the people. Notwithstanding the +numerous church and sectarian missionaries sent from England, I never met +with one Indian converted by them. I have attended mass in an Indian +village; a native priest performed the ceremony, and the whole +congregation (except myself) were of his cast and complexion: and, it is +worthy of remark, that in Peru, and some of the most populous provinces, +a pagan is scarcely to be found. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVIII. + +THREATENED WAR. + + +We now heard that Tetoro (one of the most powerful chiefs of this part of +the island) had taken offence, and had sent a defiance to King George, +saying he intended coming to seek revenge, accompanied by a strong body +of warriors; and the "herald" who brought this proclamation informed us +that the English settlers were to be attacked and plundered also. + +We had every reason to fear this might prove a more calamitous affair +than any we had yet experienced; as George immediately collected all his +family and dependents, and took his departure for the Kawakawa river (the +residence of De Kookie, the chief who had come to his assistance against +Hongi's attack), leaving behind only a few slaves. Thus a second time +were we left to our own resources on Kororarika Beach. George and his +followers were too much scattered: some were trading with the ships, +others were distributed in various districts, attending to their +agricultural pursuits. Thus separated, each might become an easy prey to +any of the powerful chiefs; but, were they united, they would be too +strong for any of the tribes: unfortunately the hope of gain made them +risk so great a danger. At this period, too, there was not a single +vessel in the bay to protect us. The known partiality of all the tribes +for Europeans was the only consolation we had; and we endeavoured to +cheer each other with this hope, under what in reality might be +considered very appalling circumstances. + +After enduring this state of suspense and anxiety for several days, and +no enemy appearing, we determined to pay a visit to the camp of the +combined army of our friends, which would, at the same time, gratify our +own curiosity, and give them a degree of satisfaction; as it would prove +to them that we were not afraid of venturing amongst them, even in times +of danger. We accordingly prepared the whaleboats to proceed up the +Kawakawa river; and, as I had never been there before, the present +afforded an excellent opportunity for exploring that picturesque spot. + +At the top of the Bay of Islands, two rivers disembogue, the Wye Catte +and the Kawakawa: they are both small but beautiful streams. It was early +in the morning when we started: the dewy mist rose from the unruffled +bosom of the river like the gradual lifting up of a curtain, and, at +length, displayed its lofty sides, covered with immense trees, the +verdure extending to the very edge of the water. All was quiet, +beautiful, and serene; the only sounds which broke the calm were the wild +notes of the tui (or New Zealand blackbird), the splashing of our own +oars, or the occasional flight of a wild duck (or shag), disturbed by our +approach. + +We rowed our boat many miles without seeing the slightest vestige of any +human inhabitants or civilisation: all appeared wild and magnificent as +if just fresh from the hands of nature; and it failed not to lead the +mind up to the contemplation of the Creator. It seemed utterly impossible +to reconcile the idea that such lonely, romantic, and sequestered scenes +could conceal hordes of savage cannibals, or that the tranquility of this +very place would soon be exchanged for the noise and tumult of savage +warfare. We soon reached the village where the coalesced chiefs had taken +up their station: they had fortified their position, and were waiting the +approach of the enemy. No sooner, however, was our arrival known, than +all came running down tumultuously to give us welcome: all business was +laid aside to greet our landing, and we were conducted with great +ceremony into the centre of the camp. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIX. + +CONSTRUCTION OF A PA. + + +We found eight hundred warriors, who (to use a sea phrase) were "all at +quarters." The magic pen of Scott might here have been well employed to +describe "The Gathering." The chiefs sat apart from their followers in +deep consultation: we did not approach near enough to hear their +discussion; but it ended by their paying us a high compliment for coming +amongst them. The young and active were busily employed in constructing a +strong stockade fort to annoy the enemy as he approached; others were +preparing their weapons, or practising the use of arms. + +The village itself was an object of extreme interest; and, after +contemplating the war-like preparations of the chiefs, we turned with +pleasure to gaze on the beauty of the surrounding country. In a plain, +surrounded by high hills, with a beautiful stream of water meandering +through it, was situated a group of huts; and many acres of cultivated +ground, neatly fenced and cleared, encircled them. Their harvest, +consisting of Indian corn, potatoes, and kumara, was now ready for +gathering, and all the women were busily occupied. As I from an eminence +looked down upon their labours, I could almost fancy I was in Italy, and +beheld the peasantry at work in their vineyards: but the adjacent camp +and naked warriors soon dissipated the illusion! + +On approaching the village we occasioned quite a commotion: the girls +brought forth baskets filled with cooked kumaras and peaches, while the +men erected a tent to screen us from the rays of the sun: indeed, all +seemed anxious to do something that should prove acceptable to us. We had +brought with us sufficient provision for a good dinner which was soon +cooked, and we invited them to partake of our fare, and a very merry and +noisy group we formed. After our repast, the chief warriors took us round +their camp, and exhibited to us all their means of defence, and the +different works they had thrown up. Where the use of artillery is +unknown, the principles of fortification are simple, and the New +Zealanders seem to possess a clear notion of the art: necessity being +with them the mother of invention. + +In the direction where the approach of the enemy was expected, they had +erected a strong square stockade, to molest the army; while the women and +children retired to the principal fort, which was very strong, and +situated at the summit of the highest hill: it had a breast-work all +round it about five feet high, and a broad ditch beyond that. The +fortress was large enough to contain several hundred men: it had a +spacious glacis in front, and every approach to it was so completely +exposed, that we thought even a body of regular troops, without +artillery, would have found it very difficult to storm; and to the New +Zealand warrior it seemed a wonderful and impregnable work. + +The chief who had the command of this fort was our old acquaintance Kiney +Kiney, a younger brother of King George's, who seemed proud of this +honour, and appeared highly delighted in showing us round, and +explaining everything to us; even condescending to ask our advice as to +any means of adding strength and security to the works. He listened +attentively to all our observations; and if he approved any alteration we +suggested he ordered it instantly to be carried into effect. I noticed a +thicket too near the fort, and told him I thought it might shelter a body +of men, and before I left the pa it was reduced to a heap of ashes. +Sentinels were posted in every direction to give notice of the approach +of an enemy. _Mr._ Kiney Kiney (as he was sometimes called) was +splendidly apparelled on this occasion: he had, by some means or other, +become possessed of a light infantry sabre, with all its paraphernalia of +belts and buckles; this was girded round his naked body, which gave him a +very gallant air, and, I have no doubt, was the envy and admiration of +all his followers. + + + + + +CHAPTER XL. + +A SHAM FIGHT. + + +After we had seen and approved all their preparations, we were treated +with a grand review and sham fight: they divided themselves into two +parties; one half the number took their station on a hill, and lay +concealed; the other party crouched on the plains to receive the attack, +all kneeling on one knee, with their eyes fixed on the spot whence they +expected the rush of their pretended enemies. In a moment, the concealed +party burst forth from their ambush, with a tremendous and simultaneous +shout, and the mock battle began with great fury. + +Nothing in nature can be imagined more horrible than the noise they make +on these occasions. I have heard, under circumstances of some peril, the +North American Indian war-whoop; but that is trifling compared with it +and their countenances are hideous beyond description. My principal +astonishment on these occasions was, that they did not actually kill each +other, or, at least, break each other's bones; for they seemed to strike +with all the fury and vigour of a real engagement; but they kept such +exact time, that at a moment's notice they all left off, and began joking +and laughing, except a very few, whom I observed to sneak away to wash +off some bloody witness, or to put a plaster on their broken skin. + +After these military and gymnastic exhibitions, they formed a grand +assembly, and the chiefs, as usual, made long speeches in rotation. This +rude parliament is one of the most beautiful features in savage +government: all public matters are discussed openly, grievances are +complained of, and justice is summarily administered. + +Thus, after spending a pleasant day, we rose to depart, and took an +affectionate leave of our entertainers, who were most anxious that we +should remain longer; but we thought we had better return to Kororarika, +where our property had been left. Most of the chiefs accompanied us to +our boats, and, after exhibiting various testimonies of their friendly +feeling towards us, they suffered us to depart. + +The day following this visit, we were alarmed by the appearance of two +war canoes crossing the bay: we waited their approach with considerable +anxiety: what few valuables we had with us we concealed about our +persons; but, as they neared our beach, our fears subsided, on finding +there were only a few men in each. Three chiefs (unarmed) landed, whom we +found to be Rivers and two of his near kinsmen, the most dreaded persons +of our expected invaders; but they immediately informed us they came on a +mission of peace, and, for that reason, had come to us unattended and +unarmed. + +We were most happy to hear this, and to find hostilities were again +likely to be deferred. Though we well knew the character of these men, +and that they were capable of the most treacherous acts, and the deepest +dissimulation, yet, their thus throwing themselves into our power, with +the olive branch in their hands, was irresistible; and we received them +with all the pomp we were capable of. We ordered a pig to be killed for +the feast, and requested them to remain for that night. In order to do +honour to our noble guests, and credit to our friend and ally King +George, we produced all the luxuries we had; and, in addition to the +pork, piles of pancakes and molasses were devoured: after this we gave +them tea, of which they are very fond; and, over our pipes, in the +evening, we informed them of the preparations the coalesced chiefs had +made for their reception, had their intentions been hostile. + +The next morning they embarked for the camp at Kawakawa, where, I +understood, they had considerable difficulty in arranging the "treaty of +peace": George having been so often alarmed, now that such great +preparations had been effected (as he well know the treacherous character +of his foe), he was unwilling to give up the hopes of conquest; however, +by the advice of the chiefs, it was finally settled amicably. George and +his friends accordingly returned to Kororarika, leaving a strong party at +the pa to finish the fortifications; and, though peace was made, our +party still kept themselves in a posture of defence. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLI. + +RETURN OF THE BRIG.--AN EXCITING INCIDENT. + + +We had been expecting with great anxiety the return of our brig; and, +soon after the termination of this affair, we had the pleasure of seeing +her enter the bay, after her cruise from Tongataboo and Tucopea. We found +that, on leaving the Bay of Islands, she had touched at the Thames, or +(as the natives call it) Hauraki, in order to land two chiefs, whom +Captain Dillon had taken thence two years before, and, in the confusion +occasioned by the disembarking, the visiting and congratulations of +friends (the vessel being under weigh), one chief was left on board, who +had not been discovered till all the canoes were out of sight, and there +remained no other alternative for him than to proceed on the whole +voyage. + +This was of no importance as it respected Tongataboo or Tucopea; but, on +his return to Kororarika, it was not only placing him, but all of us, in +a dreadful dilemma! His tribe being at deadly enmity with that of George, +the moment he was seen on deck (which was as soon as the vessel arrived), +George and all the men in the various canoes appeared to grow outrageous: +nothing would convince them but that we were in league with their +enemies, and had brought this spy into their territories from interested +motives; and they seemed resolved upon boarding the brig and executing +vengeance upon the unfortunate victim. To all our remonstrances George +replied, "Any other man than this I would have pardoned; but it was only +last year he killed, and helped to eat, my own uncle, whose death still +remains unrevenged: I cannot allow him to leave my country alive; if I +did, I should be despised for ever." + +I was greatly grieved at the circumstance; but, as I was somewhat of a +favourite with George, I succeeded in convincing him that it arose purely +from accident, and no intention of giving him offence; and he consented +to leave him on board, but cautioned us not to allow him to land. "If I +see him on shore he dies," he repeated several times. It would have been +well for us had we attended to this warning: we did not; and we +accordingly infringed on the customs of his country; thus placing +ourselves in a most perilous situation with the natives, and plainly +showing that the imprudence of our countrymen is invariably the cause of +quarrels and misunderstandings with these islanders. + +Some days having passed since this altercation with George, we thought no +more about it. The brig, from various causes, was certain to remain some +time in this harbour; and, as our New Zealand guest expressed a great +desire to go on shore one day, we consented to his accompanying us. We +had scarcely entered our house, when we had reason to repent the +imprudent step we had taken: all the natives were in commotion; +messengers were sent off to George to acquaint him with the circumstance, +and soon after we saw him, attended by all his relations, accoutred for +war; that is, quite naked, their skins oiled and painted, and armed with +muskets. Fury was in their looks and gestures as they hastened towards +our residence. We had scarcely time to shut and fasten our door, when +they made a rush to force it; and we had a severe struggle to keep them +out. At one period their rage became so ungovernable that we expected +every instant they would fire on us for preventing their entrance. The +man who was the cause of all this violence crept into our bedroom, and +kept out of sight; but he did not, at any period of the disturbance, +exhibit the least sign of fear, so accustomed are they from childhood to +these deadly frays. + +When the natives found we would not give up the man, but that they must +murder us before they could accomplish their revenge, the disappointment +rendered them nearly frantic. Our situation was most critical and +appalling; and nothing can be a more convincing proof of the influence +the Europeans have obtained over them, than that, at such a moment, they +should have refrained from setting fire to or pulling down the house, and +sacrificing every one of us. George again remonstrated with us, assuring +us it was his sacred duty to destroy this man, now he was in his +territory; a duty which, he said, he owed to the memory of his murdered +relations, and which must be performed, even though he should sacrifice +his "good English friends." He cautioned us not to stand between him and +his enemy, who must die before the sun set, pointing, at the same time, +to that luminary, and ordering his slaves to kindle a large fire to roast +him on. Finally, he and his friends planted themselves all round the +house to prevent the escape of their victim. Thus were we environed with +fifty or sixty well armed and exasperated savages. + +Our imprudence had given us no other alternative than either to give up +the man, who had put himself under our protection, or still to defend him +at the risk of our own lives: we instantly adopted the latter course. +Fortunately for us, a whaler was lying in the harbour, and a party of her +men were then on shore in the neighbourhood procuring water. We had sent +to them to explain the nature of our situation, and we saw them coming to +our assistance, though the numbers of natives at this time assembled +totally precluded all chance of our getting off by force; and a variety +of schemes were suggested as to how we should save the man's life, and +get clear of this difficulty, without sacrificing the good opinion we +were held in by the natives. + +We were well aware of the great importance it was to George to continue +on friendly terms with the English vessels touching here, as they not +only afforded him various sources of considerable profit, but the +intercourse gave him great importance in the eyes of his countrymen; and +we determined to make this circumstance a means of saving the man's life, +as we suspected that a threat of removing the seat of trade would soon +make him compromise his revenge for his interest. + +We therefore sent him a formal message, that, if he was resolved to kill +his enemy in our house, we had determined not to prevent him, but that we +would not stay to witness such a cruelty; and that we should immediately +remove every thing we possessed on board ship, leave the Bay of Islands, +and seek the protection and shelter of some other chief; and, if he +compelled us to do so, no other British ship would ever be seen at +Kororarika. + +We accordingly ordered the ship's boats ashore, and our things were +quickly conveyed into them. I trembled when I looked on the natives, and +saw the rage depicted on their countenances; and I, trusting in +Providence to avert from me the dreadful death with which I saw myself +threatened, prepared myself for some fatal catastrophe. Tumultuous +discussions ensued, and it at length became difficult for the elders to +restrain the impetuosity of the younger chiefs. Fortunately for us, their +vehement speeches soon produced a violent feud amongst themselves. Mutual +upbraidings took place: each accused the other of being the cause of +quarrel, and the consequent loss of the white men. This was precisely the +state of things we wished for; and, while we were waiting the return of +the last boat, a messenger came from the elder chiefs, to propose an +amicable adjustment of the affair. The chiefs promised that, if we would +reland our goods and remain with them, the man we protected should go +without molestation on board the brig; but, if we persevered in leaving +them, the man should be killed before our eyes. This was what we +expected; and though I really now wished to leave them, being quite tired +of these perpetual broils, we assented, in order that the man's life +might be spared When they found we agreed to their proposal, they +retreated out of sight, thereby carefully avoiding polluting their eyes +by looking upon their enemy. + +No sooner had they disappeared than I visited the poor fellow who had +been the cause of all this disturbance: he seemed half dead with anxiety; +but I soon revived him with the information that all was settled +amicably; and we lost no time in getting him off, which we safely +accomplished, though, as the boat which conveyed him left the shore, a +bullet whizzed close by me, aimed, no doubt, by some young fiery chief, +who had concealed himself in the bushes for that purpose. + +During this transaction I witnessed the natural kindness of heart and +disinterested tenderness of the female sex: no matter how distressing the +circumstance or appalling the danger, they are, in all countries, the +last to forsake man. While the enraged chiefs were yelling outside our +house, and all our exertions could scarcely prevent them from making a +forcible entry, all the women were sitting with, and trying to comfort +the unhappy cause of this calamity. They had cooked for him a delicate +dinner, brought him fruit, and were using every means by which they could +keep up his spirits and buoy up his hopes, confidently assuring him the +white men would not yield him up to his ferocious foes. Notwithstanding +all their exertions, he was miserable, till informed by me of his safety; +and I received the warmest thanks, and even blessings, from his "fair" +friends, as if I had conferred upon each a personal favour. + +The man being now in safety, we determined to demand satisfaction for the +affront which had been put upon us, and we sent George word we could not +again receive him into our house unless he made an ample apology for his +behaviour, painting in strong colours how deeply our feelings had been +wounded, and how much this indignity had lowered us in the esteem of all +our acquaintances. + +After some consultation among their leading men upon the subject of our +message, King George presented himself at the door of our hut, and, in +the most humble manner, surrendered his musket; and shortly after his +brother Kiney Kiney did the same. Thus we gained our point, and received +both payment and apologies for their violent behaviour. Friendship being +thus restored, we soon gave them back their muskets, to their infinite +surprise and satisfaction. + +On reflection, I felt quite convinced that the natives liked us the +better for what we had done: it afforded them also a lesson of humanity, +for they all well knew we had no other object in view when we stood +forward to defend the poor fellow, who had relied upon our promise of +protecting him. Several chiefs told us that they greatly admired our +principles, and should always feel themselves quite safe with men like +us, who would risk their own lives rather than break their word, or +desert a friend in the hour of danger. + +At the close of this eventful day we received another token of peace, +which was in its manner simple and affecting, and not such as could have +been expected from a nation of savages. A procession of young girls +approached our door, each bearing a basket: some were filled with nicely +cooked potatoes, others with various fruits and flowers, which they set +down before us, chanting, in a low voice, a song in praise of our recent +exploit; a man bearing a very large fish closed the procession; he +repeated the song also. We were informed that these presents had been +sent by King George as a ratification of friendship, for the New +Zealanders never think a reconciliation perfected till you have again +eaten and drank with them. + +Two important conclusions may be drawn from the termination of this +affair: first, that if a spirited interference takes place on the part of +the Europeans, murder may be at times prevented, as we actually rescued +a mortal foe from the vengeance of an exasperated enemy; and, secondly, +their efforts to restore amity proves their extreme desire to have white +people settle amongst them. + +About a week after this event we witnessed a most extraordinary ceremony, +which partook more of the ludicrous than the horrible, though I have no +doubt it was regarded by the natives as a most solemn affair. For some +days we had been honoured by the presence of a great priest, or one of +their chief tabooers; he came for the purpose of discussing with the +chiefs the affairs of the nation, particularly the approaching war with +the tribe of the Thames; and the day set apart for the discussion of the +principal points was ushered in by a rich feast, not of pork nor fish, +nor even the kumara, but of two old, sturdy, large dogs! + +I was much surprised on rising one morning to see Kiney Kiney, with +several chiefs of the highest rank, stripped, and performing the offices +of the meanest slave (the washing the feet of the pilgrims by cardinals +and persons of rank in Rome came instantly to my remembrance). These +chiefs were making a fire and cooking. I was still more astonished, on +approaching them, to find the nature of the food they were singeing and +scraping. This bow-wow meat they were preparing after the fashion of +pork: pigs being the only quadruped they have ever seen cooked, they of +course are not acquainted with any other way of dressing the animal +creation, and a sad bungling job they made of it; for the dogs were old +and tough, and the hair adhered most pertinaciously to the skin, and in +many places would not come off. + +There were only five persons allowed to partake of this delicious meal, +which was, as well as the five partakers, strictly taboo'd for the whole +of that day: and we strongly recommended them to hold a similar feast +every day, until they had cleared the country of these canine nuisances, +the dogs being the greatest pests they have. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLII. + +WAR-LIKE EXPEDITION TO THE THAMES. + + +One morning I was roused out of a sound sleep by continued discharges of +musketry from a number of war canoes. I jumped up instantly in alarm; but +I soon discovered them to be Atoi and his party, who had been absent +about two months on a war-like expedition to the Thames, and they were now +returning successful. + +I had witnessed the departure of this expedition, and considered it in +the light of a reconnoitring party. I could not make out what the real +object was they had been in search of; but, wherever they had been, they +had been victorious, for they now returned with quantities of plunder, +human heads, human flesh, and many prisoners! After the dance and sham +fight had been duly gone through, they proceeded to land their cargo of +spoil. First came a group of miserable creatures, women and children, +torn by violence from their native homes, henceforth to be the slaves of +their conquerors; some were miserably wounded and lacerated, others +looked half-starved, but all seemed wretched and dejected. + +The women of Kororarika, with their usual humanity, instantly surrounded +them, and endeavoured to console them, and then shed abundance of tears +over them. I enquired of one of the warriors what they had done with the +male prisoners: he coolly replied, they had all been eaten, except some +"titbits," which had been packed up in the baskets and brought on shore, +in order to regale particular friends and favourites! + +They had also brought with them several heads, which they have the art of +preparing in their native ovens, so as not to disfigure the countenance +nor injure the figure tatoo'd upon them. One of these, the skull of a +distinguished chief, seemed to afford them amazing delight. Most of our +people had known him well, and several of his near relations were +present: but cruel war seemed to have eradicated every feeling of +humanity; for all appeared to contemplate this ghastly object with great +satisfaction. These heads were decorated profusely with yellow and red +ribbons, and with white feathers: they were then stuck upon short poles, +and placed, with great ceremony, in front of the old Queen Turero's +house; who, sitting at the door, received this token of respect with +approval and condescension. + +The group altogether formed an interesting picture of savage manners, in +which ferocity was strongly blended with humanity, for their respect and +devotion to the old sybil was manifested as feelingly as their hatred +towards those whom they call their enemies: in fact, the young warrior +chiefs presenting to her (as was the case with several) their first +spoils of conquest, reminded me of young lions bringing part of the +spoils of the chase to their aged dam. + +In this affray only a few of Atoi's party had been wounded, and +twenty-five of the enemy had been killed. It was a fortunate circumstance +for the wretched prisoners that none of the conquering party had been +killed; for, if that had been the case, there would have been a dreadful +slaughter of the captives on their arrival at the village, an act of +cruelty never dispensed with. This sight I dreaded I should encounter +when I went to witness the disembarkation; but, hoping that my presence +might be some restraint upon their barbarities, I awaited the result with +as much firmness as I was master of. + +[Illustration: Old Pa and Whalers at Bay of Islands.] + + + + + +CHAPTER XLIII. + +VISITS OF WHALERS. + + +Two South Sea whalers were at this time lying in the bay: the Anne, from +London, a full ship; and the Lynx, from Sydney. Since I have been living +here, five vessels of this description have visited us; and many others +would have touched here but for the want of proper regulations, and a +dread of the dispositions of the natives. There being here no +representatives of the British Government, the crews of whalers are often +involved in disputes with the natives. This want of Government support +has also frightened other vessels away; their commanders preferring going +on to Port Jackson, where they half ruin themselves by the unavoidable +expenses they incur. Even when their vessels have anchored here, the +thoughtlessness and eccentricity of this class of men, when they are +under no restraint or control, has sometimes not only led to disputes +with the natives, but with each other, which eventually have proved +equally detrimental. In short, New Zealand is a place of such vast +importance to so many lucrative branches of British trade, that it must +be well worthy the speedy attention of our Government at home. + +We spoke frequently to our friend George, as well as to several other of +their powerful chiefs, respecting the erection of a small fort with a +British garrison, and of permanently hoisting the English flag. They +always expressed the utmost delight at the idea; and, from all I have +seen of them, I feel convinced it would prove a most politic measure. +George (who had visited Port Jackson) said: "This country is finer than +Port Jackson; yet the English go and settle there. Our people are much +better than the black natives of New South Wales, and yet you English +live amongst them in preference to us." + +The ship Anne, Captain Gray, was out three years, and during that period +she never entered a civilised port. She had touched twice at this bay, +and had cruised four months on the coast of Japan, off Timor, through the +Sandwich and Friendly Islands, and passed several times over the Pacific +Ocean, in order to obtain a cargo of sperm oil, which she at length +accomplished; and was at this time here to refit for her voyage home to +England round Cape Horn, having picked up most of her cargo off this +port. + +For twelve years past, notwithstanding all the disadvantages, this has +been the favourite resort for ships in the above-mentioned trade. Here, +surrounded with savages and cannibals, they heave down their vessels, +land the cargoes and stores, and carry on work, both on board and on +shore, in tolerable security. The safety of the harbour, the facility of +wooding and watering, the supplies of pigs and potatoes, tempt them to +run the risk of placing themselves in the power of capricious and +barbarous people. + +It has been imagined that the residence of missionaries would have the +effect of civilising the natives, and adding to the safety of ships +touching here; but experience fully proves the fallacy of such an +expectation. These people, abstracted by their own gloomy reflections, +look with contempt on all who are in the pursuit of "worldly wealth"; and +regard the arrival of a whaler as an enemy coming to interfere with the +spiritual interests of "their flock," as they term the inhabitants, +though I never yet saw one proselyte of their converting. + +They never visit a whaler except on a Sunday, and then it is to beg for +the benefit of their society. It cannot, therefore, be expected that much +sympathy can exist between parties, where the cold formality of one +excites the contempt and disgust of the other. + +The ship Anne, of which I have formerly spoken, arrived here lately from +Wahoo, one of the Sandwich Islands, which possesses the advantage of a +British consul. The pacific disposition and orderly government of the +natives do not require a British garrison, or any war-like force; and of +the excellent effects produced by this representation of our Government +Captain Gray speaks with admiration and enthusiasm. The harbours were +crowded with shipping; houses, nay, even streets, were beginning to +appear; the savage character of the people was gradually subsiding into +industrious and peaceful occupations; and comfort and prosperity were +spreading their benign influence over the whole island: yet Wahoo is not +nearly so well situated as a rendezvous for South Sea whalers as New +Zealand; at least so I have been informed by all the captains of those +ships who have conversed with me on the subject. + +It is rather a remarkable and novel circumstance that the natives, who +have been now for fourteen or fifteen years in close intercourse and +carrying on traffic with Europeans, should not, in the course of that +period, understand the nature and value of money; a laughable instance of +which occurred to us a few days since. A native came to our house with a +serious countenance and business-like manner, and said he wished to +purchase a musket: we asked to see what he had brought in exchange for +one, when, with great ceremony, he produced a copper penny piece in the +way of payment. The poor fellow had, doubtless, seen some one pass a +doubloon, and had mistaken his penny for one; as a doubloon is about the +price given for a musket in our regulated list of charges. We, of course, +refrained from laughter; but he was quite astonished and mortified when +he was made to understand we could not trade with him. He took a stroll +round the beach, offering his penny, by way of barter, to every white man +he met, but everywhere with equally bad success. + + + + +CHAPTER XLIV. + +VISIT OF TWO SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS. + + +When our brig left Tucopea she brought away two natives of that island, +who had most earnestly entreated the captain to take them off, and leave +them upon any other land he pleased, as, according to their statement, +Tucopea was so overstocked with inhabitants that it was scarcely possible +to find subsistence; and the scarcity of food had become so general, that +parents destroyed their children rather than witness their sufferings +from famine. Captain Kent, therefore, from motives of compassion, +received them on board his ship; and, not having touched at any inhabited +spot, brought them with him here. Their extraordinary appearance excited +a great deal of surprise, both among Europeans and New Zealanders. They +appeared simple, timid creatures, though stout and comely, but their hair +was unlike anything I had before beheld, as in length it reached below +the waist, and was so abundantly thick as completely to conceal their +faces. By some curious chemical process which the natives of Tucopea have +discovered, they render their hair a bright sulphur colour; and, as this +mass of yellow hangs over their faces and shoulders, they bear the most +striking resemblance to the lion monkeys of the Brazils. + +These poor creatures, upon landing, shook with fear, and trembled greatly +when they beheld the New Zealanders, whose character for cannibalism had +reached even their remote island: when our friend George went up to them, +and lifted up (in order to examine closely) the curious mass of hair in +which they were enveloped, they burst into a passionate fit of tears, and +ran up to us for protection. The New Zealanders, with characteristic +cunning, perceiving the horror they had created, tormented them still +more cruelly, by making grotesque signs, as if they were about to +commence devouring them; and, at the same time (like most savages), +evincing the most sovereign contempt for them, from their apparent +pusillanimity. + +After they had been some days on shore, we had a very diverting scene +with them, which exhibited strongly the great difference there is in the +nature of the two classes of savages we now had such opportunities of +observing. I had brought my violin from Sydney, on which I used to play +occasionally. The New Zealanders generally expressed the greatest dislike +to it; and my companions used to rally me much on the subject, saying it +was not that the savages did not like music, but it was my discordant +playing that frightened them away, which might be true. It was, however, +a useful discovery for us all, as I often took that method of civilly +driving them out of our house when we grew tired of their company. But +when I began to play before the Tucopeans, the effect it had instantly +upon them was ludicrous in the extreme. They sprang up, and began dancing +most furiously; at the same time, so waving their heads about as to keep +their long hair extended at its fullest length: as I played faster, they +quickened their pace. A lively Scotch reel seemed to render them nearly +frantic; and when I ceased playing, they threw themselves down on the +floor quite exhausted, and unable to articulate a word. I have observed +(generally speaking) that savages are not much affected by music; but +these two Tucopeans were excited to a most extraordinary degree. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLV. + +THE DEATH OF HONGI. + + +We at length received authentic intelligence of the death of the +celebrated Hongi. Finding his dissolution fast approaching, he convened a +meeting of all the neighbouring chiefs; and as many as could reach the +spot in time attended. The wounded warrior expired, surrounded by the men +he had so frequently led to battle and conquest. After the numerous and +desperate risks he had run, the many encounters he had sustained with +various enemies, it appeared extraordinary to us Europeans that he should +die quietly in his hut. It is the custom to keep a guarded and mysterious +silence relating to the subjects which are spoken of by a dying chief. I +questioned several who had attended Hongi: all spoke with the greatest +solemnity of his last moments. One sentence (uttered by him) was all I +could obtain after much manoeuvring, and that was spoken but a few +minutes before he breathed his last, which was, that "Shulitea (viz., our +friend George) would not live one week longer than himself"; but, as our +patron was in perfect health at the time, and all seemed peaceful around +him, I only laughed at the improbability of the prophecy being fulfilled. + +The natives of New Zealand pay the greatest respect to courage and +war-like talents: these were the only distinguishing characteristics of +Hongi; yet, by possessing these, he was more feared, and had a greater +number of followers, than any other chief in the island. His hereditary +possessions were but small, and his name was little known; yet his +undaunted courage, his skill, and success in many sanguinary battles, +made him, at length, a most powerful chief, and obtained for him that +which is considered wealth in this country, namely, an immense number of +slaves. In his last moments he was attended by more men of rank than had +ever before assembled to witness the dissolution of a warrior, and this +is considered the greatest proof of attention and respect one chieftain +can show towards another. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLVI. + +A TRIBAL CONFLICT. + + +Our brig now sailed for Hokianga to take in a cargo of planks; and my +friend, Mr. Shand, being tired of wandering, accompanied her; but I, +being still anxious to procure more sketches of this interesting country, +determined to remain as long as possible, and to take one more walk +across the island, and join the brig by the time she was loaded. I was +preparing to start on my last pedestrian tour, when a chain of events +occurred which threw all the tribes into confusion. Bloodshed and +devastation stared me in the face from all quarters; and from the state +of security I had imagined myself to be in, I was roused to behold myself +beset with difficulties; to crown which, our brig, which would have been +a place of safety and refuge, was now on the opposite side of the island. + +Arising from a trifling circumstance, which was partly caused by us, +though innocently, Pomare's only son had lost his life; and, as is usual +among savage tribes, the severest retaliation soon took place. + +By relating the particulars, the reader will perceive how easily the +war-cry is raised among these turbulent savages. + +Pomare's only surviving son. Tiki, was a very finely-formed, handsome +young man, of twenty years of age, and he had made an arrangement with a +captain of a ship here to supply him with a certain number of hogs. +Accordingly, accompanied by a party of his friends, he started into the +interior for the purpose of collecting them. In making his selection, he +not only proceeded to drive off some of his own, but actually laid claim +to, and began marching away with, some belonging to his neighbours. The +right owners remonstrated with him in vain. He, being an insolent, +over-bearing young fellow, persisted in his unjust claims, and set them +all at defiance. They were compelled to yield up their property, as his +tribe was a most powerful one; and Tiki was driving away the stolen hogs +in triumph, when a sudden stop was put to his predatory career. Finding +words were of no avail to induce the young man to restore the swine, one +of the injured party had recourse to a musket. A bullet, aimed from +behind a tree, killed Tiki on the spot; but from whose hand it came could +only be conjectured. The greatest confusion instantly took place. His +companions, being well armed, the war-cry was immediately raised; and the +fray becoming general, seven more lives were lost. + +When the account of this melancholy affair reached our beach, everyone +flew to arms, even all the women, for the young man was a general +favourite. The war-cry spread in every direction. "Here," they exclaimed, +"is the last of the Pomare family killed treacherously, a warrior related +to and connected with every chief of consequence in the country, and a +nephew of the great Shulitea." The cry for blood and revenge was +universal. I must confess that, added to the danger it placed me in, I +was much shocked when I heard of the fate of poor Tiki, for he was one of +our particular friends, and had passed many an evening in our hut. I had +taken leave of him only the day before, when he had set out, full of +health and spirits, on this hog expedition, which had terminated thus +fatally. + +The death of this young man excited the highest indignation in the minds +of his countrymen, as well as in those of his numerous intimate friends +and relations; for a report was industriously circulated that he had +fallen by the hands of a slave. This was considered by his tribe as a +degradation infinitely worse than the murder itself. The offended chiefs +assembled on our beach, with all their followers, armed: and none +appeared more indignant at the transaction than our friend George, who, +with his brother Kiney Kiney, placed themselves at the head of the party, +to revenge the insult which had been offered them. + +The night before they started on this expedition, George spent the +evening with us. He was in particularly low spirits, and said he did not +at all like the business he was going upon: but, as he was the nearest +relation of the deceased, and the eldest of the tribe, he went in hopes +of being able to prevent a great effusion of blood, and also to restrain +the impetuosity of the young men. Little did we then think he would be +the first victim; although his unusual depression of mind brought to my +remembrance the prophecy of Hongi, and, spite of my endeavours to banish +my forebodings, I felt convinced that the prediction would in all +probability be fulfilled. + +Three days had elapsed from the time the avenging party had gone on their +mission, when, at midnight, a messenger, faint and nearly exhausted, +arrived on our beach with the following dreadful intelligence; and that +night no other sounds were heard than those of agony and woe, the yelling +of women, and the shrieks of slaves. + +The substance of the man's information was, that George and the offending +party had met; but, as several days had passed since the murder of their +friend, their feelings were in some degree appeased, and they had +contented themselves with a general plunder of whatever property their +enemies possessed. They had spared their lives, and the outrage was +considered as atoned for. The chiefs were on their return home, laden +with spoil, when, like other coalesced armies, disagreements began to +take place among themselves, and discord long smothered, broke out in +every quarter of the camp. + +George, the principal person of their party, was the one marked to be +dissatisfied with. All were jealous of him, in consequence of his +possessions at Kororarika giving him such a decided advantage over every +other tribe, by his trade and intercourse with Europeans. It is probable, +also, that as the other tribes went forth with an intention to fight, +they were resolved not to be disappointed, and therefore determined to +create a feud among themselves, rather than return home devoid of the +pleasures or the trophies of a combat. + +Some irritating language had been uttered by both sides, when an accident +of a fatal nature took place, which produced an instantaneous and general +appeal to arms. At the close of the day a halt was made, as usual, and +each party began erecting their temporary huts to pass the night in. One +of George's wives, assisted by a little boy, his nephew, was busily +engaged in constructing one; arms and baggage of every description being +strewed about in all directions. At this period a lad took up one of +George's muskets, and began to play with it; but not understanding the +management of it, he, by his injudicious handling, accidentally +discharged the piece, and killed both the wife and nephew, the ball +passing through both their bodies. + +The sensation produced by this unfortunate accident may readily be +conceived. As the woman who was killed was related to the tribe who had +been disputing with George all day, her death furnished an ostensible +motive for open war; and before the real cause of the accident could be +explained, another shot was fired, which wounded a chief of the name of +Moo-de-wy in the thigh. This proved the signal for a general fight: each +party ran to their arms, ranged themselves under their different leaders, +and a general discharge of muskets immediately took place. + +Almost at the beginning of the combat George received a shot, which broke +both his legs: his brother and friends endeavoured to support him in +their arms. It being then nearly dark, added much to the confusion, as it +was difficult to distinguish friend from foe; indeed, so sudden had been +the onset, that many could scarcely have been aware of the cause of the +contest. But our unhappy friend, who seemed particularly marked out in +this unfortunate affray, soon after received another bullet, which struck +him on the throat, and terminated his existence; thus dying before a week +had passed since the death of his rival Hongi. I heard from one of his +friends who supported him in his last moments, that he died like a hero: +finding both his legs were broken, and that consequently he was totally +unable to move, he begged those friends who were about him to leave him +to his fate, and either again enter the fight, or make their escape +while they yet had time. He then gave his musket to one, took off his +mantle to present to another, and while thus in the act of exhorting his +friends and distributing amongst them his tokens of regard, he received +his death-wound, and expired without a groan. When George fell, a general +flight took place; and though the engagement had lasted but a short time, +great numbers had fallen on both sides. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLVII. + +THE DEATH OF KING GEORGE AND ITS CONSEQUENCES. + + +This news caused mourning and lamentation along our beach, and filled all +the Europeans with dismay. We could not calculate the extent of the +injury we might receive, but felt certain we should be considerable +sufferers in some way or other. The light of day seemed to add to, rather +than to diminish, the moans of George's faithful subjects. The violent +sobbings from every dwelling were most dismal. Groups were scattered +about, forming small crying parties, and cutting their skins deeply with +knives and pieces of broken glass; in short, nothing was heard but +yelling and groaning, and nothing was seen but streams of blood! + +But however shocked I might feel by the train of accidents and deaths +which had made such cruel havoc amongst my friends, and notwithstanding +my sincere grief and regret for the fate of poor George, who was a most +humane and intelligent chief, and particularly kind to all the English; +the predicament in which I was now placed demanded all my energies, for I +felt that I stood in a situation of great danger. + +I have before noticed their barbarous custom, on the death of a chief, of +plundering his family and friends. As we had always been considered as a +part of George's family, living under his protection, adopted by him, +and admitted into his tribe, I entertained great suspicions that we also +should be sufferers by the general plunder about to take place: besides, +I was so circumstanced as to be obliged to cross the country with all my +goods, and my route lay through the territories of all those chiefs who +had been fighting against George; and I was at no loss to guess in what +light they would regard me. Depending, too securely, on the general +tranquility, I had not sent my luggage by sea, as I might have done, and +which would have saved me great anxiety, as I should have ventured alone +without fear, but could not manage to carry what I possessed; and to +engage any to convey them was an impossibility, for the moment I made the +proposition to any (even the meanest of the slaves) to accompany me, they +ran off into the bush, nor could any entreaty, presents, or threats +induce them to venture with me; so, for security, I removed all the +property I had, and went with it on board the Marianne, whaler. + +For three days after the death of George, all gave themselves up to +grief; no work was done, and not an individual was to be seen but in an +agony of tears. I began to feel strangely affected with melancholy +myself, when, on the fourth morning, a scene of bustle took place, and +low spirits were banished by tumult, noise, and confusion. + +At six o'clock on that morning we discovered upwards of twenty sail of +war canoes, crowded with armed warriors, coming into the bay. What their +intentions were we could not imagine; but for fear of the worst, the +ships in the harbour shotted their guns, and when the canoes were abreast +of us, we fired a blank one over their heads. On this they all stopped, +and we saw some stir amongst them: at length a very small canoe left the +main body, and pulled directly towards us; it contained the chief persons +of the expedition: they came on board, and assured us they meant no harm +to any persons; they were merely some of the late George's friends, who +were going to pay a visit of condolence to his relations; and, after +making a most hearty breakfast with us, they went on shore, and we +accompanied them. + +Whether the account they gave of themselves was correct, or the reverse, +we knew not at the time; but we felt assured their intentions were not +hostile towards us Europeans, and their quarrels with each other we were +determined not to interfere in. We soon discovered their falsehood, for +George's eldest daughter informed me that amongst the chiefs who landed +with us were several of the most inveterate foes of her father, and that +they were only restrained from committing the most dreadful outrages, and +carrying off all her relations as slaves, by witnessing the many friends +of George by whom they were surrounded. The day was spent in savage +dancing, yelling, making speeches, and debating as to who the proper +person was to succeed George in his dignities: several times I thought +the affair would end in blows. George's relation, Rivers, made great +exertions "to keep the peace," and finally, by force of argument, +succeeded. It was at length unanimously agreed that Kiney Kiney was to +succeed his brother, and that Rivers should take the command until the +time of Kiney Kiney's mourning for the loss of George should be +completed. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLVIII. + +DEPARTURE FROM BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +After these important matters were amicably disposed of, I made a sign to +Rivers, and, separating him from the crowd, I explained to him the nature +of my situation, and asked his assistance in getting me safely over to +Hokianga. He replied, there would certainly be great danger in attempting +it; but I soon discovered that he magnified the difficulties in order to +increase his demand for payment, for even the greatest chiefs have here +their price. He said (and I had every reason to think he was correct) +that I ran no risk of being molested by any chiefs, like himself, who +would always protect rather than molest every European; but that the +country being in such a state of commotion, in consequence of the late +events, it was full of runaway slaves, who always took advantage of such +times to make their escape; and if I chanced to fall in with any of them, +I should be exposed to great peril: "However (he added), keep up your +spirits; I have two confidential slaves, who shall conduct you over, and +carry your luggage, if you will make me a present of a stocking full of +powder, a bag of small shot, and a powder-horn." He also proposed, as he +himself was going to the Kirikiri, and thence to a village in the +interior, to meet a large assemblage of chiefs, in order to talk over the +late tragical events, that I should journey the first part of my way +with him, in his own canoe. + +Accordingly, after having made preparations for my departure, I took +leave of all my friends at the Bay of Islands, both civilised and savage. +I must say I felt considerable regret when I found myself really going to +take final leave of several native families, with whom I had been on +terms of intimacy since my residence here, from whom I had received many +proofs of personal regard, and whom, I felt convinced, I should never +meet or hear of more; none I regretted parting with more than the family +of poor Shulitea; the mere sight of me seemed to rekindle all their grief +for the loss of their kinsman, and to remind them more forcibly than ever +of his tragical fate. His mother, old Turero, in point of grief, had +rivalled Niobe; she had never ceased weeping and lamenting from the time +she heard of her son's death, and had twice attempted to strangle +herself. But even in the midst of her passionate sorrow, I could scarcely +refrain from laughing, while observing her care and anxiety to get all +she could from me. After deploring the sad fate of her dear son, "You +know," she continued, "you promised him that you would send him a +handsome new musket from Sydney; and now, poor fellow, he is dead; and +cannot shoot with it; but then you must remember that his brother Kiney +Kiney is still alive, and he can shoot with it; and poor George would +wish that his brother should have his new musket." This speech I felt +quite irresistible; therefore, in order to comfort the old queen, I +promised that I would send the musket for her second son; which +declaration seemed to afford her great consolation, and considerably +abated the violence of her grief. + +Just at the dawn of morning we started from the bay in Rivers' canoe, +accompanied by his wife, one child, and the two stout slaves he had +mentioned to me. My luggage, which consisted of one leathern portmanteau +and my bed, was placed in the centre. I had also provided myself with a +small basket of cooked meat, with bread, and a small bottle of brandy, +which was given me by the captain of one of the whalers. The day broke +around us with more than usual brightness; the dewy mists of night were +just rising from the waters, and the huge and abrupt forms of the +mountains were beginning to develop themselves; flights of wild ducks and +stray birds skimmed rapidly by us. The thoughts that crowded my mind were +strange and varied, while contemplating scenes of such tranquil beauty as +were now presented, glowing with the tints of the rising sun. I +contrasted these with the difficulties and dangers I might have to +encounter from hordes of ferocious savages, who, now flushed with +conquest, were plotting murder and destruction against each other: even a +glance at my companions banished all peaceful illusions. While the wife, +son, and slaves were using the paddles with the greatest exertions, +Rivers was carefully examining his weapons. The beauty of the morning and +the romantic scenery was unnoticed: his thoughts were directed solely to +contemplating the depth and the width of my stocking of powder, which +seemed to afford him infinite satisfaction. He had with him a beautiful +double-barrelled gun, and a very good Tower musket; and seeing so many +wild ducks fly past, he drew the bullet out of one of the barrels of the +former, and, with some of my stock of small shot, fired occasionally +amongst them. + +At about eight o'clock a light sea breeze sprang up: they then set their +sail, and all went to sleep, excepting one slave, who was employed to +steer the canoe; so that I had ample time to ruminate upon my solitary +and perilous situation. The tide failed us at twelve o'clock, and we then +went on shore, kindled a fire, and soon collected such a supply of +shell-fish as furnished us a splendid repast. Here we remained till the +flood-tide set in strong, when, again hoisting our sail, we arrived at +the Kirikiri about sunset. + +I here found the missionaries in the greatest consternation and dismay, +and learned that it was one of the chiefs of Hokianga who had shot +George, and they dreaded lest the result of that deed should be that the +whole of the savage tribes on that part of the island would be opposed to +each other; that combats would ensue; and which side soever might be +victorious, it would prove equally injurious to them, as they had +settlements on both sides of the island. But their greatest alarm was +occasioned by their possessions at Hokianga, as the most violent +depredations were there being committed; and as this was the very point +of my destination, the news was not very consolatory to me. "So anxious," +said one of "the brethren" to me, "were we to inform our Christian +brethren of our danger, that we actually gave a _warm piece_ to a native +to carry a letter over to you, although that is strictly contrary to our +orders." I expressed a desire to know what he meant by a _warm piece_; he +kicked his foot against the stock of a gun I had at the time in my hand; +and, looking at me with an expression of the greatest contempt, said, "It +is what _you worldly_ folks call a musket!" + +They were making considerable preparations to repair to the great meeting +of the chiefs, to which Rivers was journeying. This was a wise and +politic measure for them to pursue; and they were highly delighted to +have such an addition to their party as this well-known chief; and though +they would not acknowledge it, their satisfaction was very visible. I +earnestly requested them to inform me candidly, from all they had heard, +whether they thought I might, with safety, venture across the country; +but I could get nothing from them but vague and mysterious answers: one +thing, however, they made me very clearly understand; which was, that +they neither cared for me nor for my drawings; that their own safety +engrossed all their thoughts; and that a worldly-minded, misguided +creature like me was but as dust in the balance, compared to such godly +people as themselves, who were now placed in jeopardy. They, without +scruple, applied quotations from the Scriptures to themselves, such as, +"Why do the heathen so furiously rage," etc., etc. + +My necessities compelled me to request a favour from them, which was, +that they would allow one of their boys, who could speak English, to +accompany me, as our loads were heavy; and his being known to belong to +their establishment I thought might be some protection; but the short +answer of the monosyllable "_No_" soon made me repent having asked it. I +spread my bed in one of their empty rooms; and started at daybreak next +morning, with my two native slaves. I could not banish from my +remembrance the inhospitable conduct of these missionaries; they never +even inquired whether I had any provision for a journey they themselves +would not have dared to undertake, which was evident by their giving a +native a _warm piece_ for merely taking a letter for them. As my shoes +were nearly worn out, and I had a long distance to go, over execrable +roads, I had intended asking them for a new pair, as they had abundance +of everything of the kind sent to them from England, to distribute to the +needy (and I fully came under that description of character); but finding +them so selfish and cold-hearted, and meeting with one refusal, I +refrained, and set off, literally almost barefooted. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLIX. + +THE JOURNEY TO HOKIANGA. + + +We journeyed on all day by a road I had never been before, my attendants +evidently taking by-paths to avoid meeting stragglers or runaways. I was +well laden, having to carry my musket and my basket of provisions; and +each of my men, in addition to the loads I had placed on his shoulders, +bore a basket of potatoes. Once or twice, during our route, we saw some +persons at a distance, and I was sorry to notice the great alarm it +occasioned to my companions, as I now had every reason to apprehend, +that, in case of danger, they would slip off their burdens, make their +escape, and leave me and my baggage to my fate, which the missionaries +had told me they considered a thing very likely to happen. Once we heard +a great firing of muskets, which I afterwards ascertained to be the _feu +de joie_ fired at the first meeting of the chiefs, at their grand +assembling in the neutral village. + +At night, we arrived safe at Patuone's Village, where I had slept on my +first journey across the island; but it now presented a very different +appearance to what it had done then; instead of the tumult I had formerly +heard, all was silence; the numerous families then there, all fully +occupied, were exchanged for a few old surly-looking slaves, and the +huts were all deserted. The inhabitants, in consequence of the rumour of +approaching war, having betaken themselves to one of their fortified pas, +I had no alternative but to pass the night with these suspicious-looking +creatures, who, feeling themselves beyond the control of their cruel +masters, soon gave way to their own vile passions, and became most +impertinent and intrusive--taking every advantage of my loneliness to +indulge their curiosity and familiarity. + +On my arrival, I had deposited my things in one of the empty huts, and +spread my bed, hoping to enjoy the luxury of a few hours' repose after +the fatigue and great anxieties of the day; but these fellows would force +themselves into the hut I had chosen, where they lighted a fire, and sat +chattering around it all the night long. Finding that I did not appear +alarmed at their intrusion or noise, they kept doing everything they +could think of to rouse my fears. They threatened to break open my +portmanteau; and one old wretch sharpened his knife, and made motions as +though he were going to cut my throat and eat me. I knew my only chance +of safety was not to betray any sign of apprehension; so I forced a +laugh, and made them believe I considered their tricks an excellent joke. +I gave them all my tobacco to keep them in good humour; but I passed a +most miserable night, nearly suffocated with smoke, distracted with their +noise, and annoyed by vermin of every description. + +I was most happy when daybreak gave me an excuse for leaving these brutal +savages, and resuming my journey. Every step I took brought before me +proofs of the horrors of war: villages which had been crowded, were now +entirely desolate, and, in many instances, burned to the ground. On that +spot where I had left a party of enterprising Scotchmen busily employed +in sawing timber, with crowds of natives assisting them, all was quiet +and totally deserted, with the exception of a few nearly starved, +wretched-looking dogs, who, hearing someone approach, came out, and tried +to bark at us, but were too weak to utter a sound. + + + + + +CHAPTER L. + +EUROPEAN PREPARATIONS FOR DEFENCE. + + +Our march along the banks of the river was through a most beautiful +country; but all the inhabitants had fled; their plantations were in a +most luxuriant state; fields which I had left bare and uncultivated were +now covered with Indian corn standing higher than my head, the ripe ears +hanging fantastically in all directions, and none to gather in the +harvest; the crops of kumara and potatoes were equally abundant. I could +not help thinking that, if they expected an invasion of their enemies, +they had left an ample supply of forage for their use. In the evening I +arrived at Horeke, or Deptford Dock-yard (of which I made mention in my +first journey). I here found my countrymen in a state of considerable +embarrassment. The various chiefs of that district had encamped all round +them; so near to them had they taken up their position, that, whatever +might be the result of their battles, the European settlement would be in +danger. The settlers had fortified their place of refuge in the best +manner they could; and all were determined to defend themselves and +property to the last. They had four nine-pounders mounted on a hill, and +a tolerable battery made of three-inch pine stuff. + +Before the English erected their fortifications, there was a great +difference of opinion amongst them as to the propriety and utility of +adopting so strong a measure, and the affair was finally put to the vote, +when the majority proved to be in favour of a strong resistance. I +opposed the measure all I could, for I felt convinced that in the event +of our allies being worsted we all should be involved in one common +massacre; whereas, if no resistance was made, plunder alone would have +been the extent of the injury we should suffer; and even of that taking +place I had strong doubts. However, as my opinion was overruled, I had to +submit, which I did unhesitatingly; and, like a good soldier, I held +myself in readiness in case of an attack. + +The proprietor and manager of the Dock-yard possessed certainly a +"satisfying reason" for striving to defend himself at all hazards. The +vessel I had left here, on my former visit, in frame, was now nearly +completed, and a most beautiful one she was. He told me he would much +rather part with life than see her destroyed; and I confess I could fully +enter into his feelings on the subject; but as I had no such object at +stake, and was not quite enthusiastic enough to fight for a vessel I had +no share in, I felt very much inclined to let the natives war among +themselves without interference; but as we Europeans had agreed to assist +each other, I would not be behind-hand. + +I discharged Rivers' two slaves, and rewarded them liberally for +conducting me with safety through such a wild and perilous country; they +departed (after expressing the heartiest wishes for my reaching my own +home in safety, and thanks for my generosity) to join their master at the +great meeting of the chiefs in the interior. These men, while assisting +me, were performing a great service to their master, by acting as spies. +When we started from the Kirikiri each was armed with a musket; but when +we had accomplished about half the journey, they concealed these in a +hollow tree, under pretence of extreme fatigue. I felt convinced at the +time that was not their real reason for so doing; and afterwards I +learned the true motive. Had they been found armed when returning to +their master (who was hostile to those assembled round the Dock-yard), +they would have been detained; but, by their coming unarmed amongst us, +they were suffered to depart; and I have no doubt the information they +carried back to Rivers was very important. I did not mention to anyone +the hiding of these muskets in the woods, though, according to "The +Articles of War," I ought to have done so, as getting possession of them +would have added two more to our strength, and lessened that of our +enemy; my silence arose from a repugnance I felt to betray these poor +creatures, who had behaved so well to me. + +Although prepared for war, we were very well pleased to find no attack +was made upon us. Indeed, from the first, it had been my decided opinion, +that unless we interfered, and made ourselves by that means obnoxious, +they had too much respect for us, and were too anxious to retain our +kindly feelings towards them, to molest us; at the same time, I felt that +it might be a very politic measure to show them what powerful resistance +we could make, if driven to extremities. + +After passing a week of the greatest anxiety, on account of our expected +invasion, it afforded us the utmost satisfaction to receive a visit from +Mr. Hobbs, the Wesleyan missionary, one of the persons who had visited +the war-camp of the assembled chiefs, who were convened, on the death of +our lamented friend George, to debate and decide upon the momentous +question of peace or war. + +The subject (our informant stated) had been gone into at great length, +and stormy and fierce had been the discussion. Finally, the good sense of +the elder and more experienced chiefs prevailed over the fiercer passions +of the younger, and peace was decided upon. This event forms a new era in +"The Political History of the Few Zealanders," it being the first time so +great an assemblage had met to discuss openly a national question, or in +which they had allowed cool reasoning and good sense to prevail over +their habitual ferocity. As may naturally be supposed, where such various +interests were at stake, this pacific measure was not effected without +considerable opposition from the young and furious chiefs. The +provocations given by them to the elders, whose voices were for peace, +were considerable. They did not confine themselves to abuse, but fired +several muskets during debate, in hopes that one shot out of the many +might prove fatal; which, if it had, and any distinguished chief had been +killed, or even wounded, it would have immediately thrown all into +confusion. Even when pacific measures were decided upon by a very large +majority, and the chiefs were about to separate, a bullet was fired from +the pa, which had evidently been aimed at a chief, a well-known ally of +the late Shulitea, as it fell at his feet, and the earth it threw up fell +upon him. For a few seconds surprise kept all silent; but, as the angry +chief rose up, and was about to address the crowd, his friends eagerly +surrounded him, and hurried him away. + +This was the first instance on record, in which these people had laid a +statement of their private wrongs before a public assembly consisting of +deputies from every part of the island, and abided by the decision of the +majority; and it was the only instance of a chief being killed in battle, +and his decease not having been followed up by the plundering and +destruction of his whole family or tribe. + +This had been a question of peculiar interest to us Europeans, as several +of their great men had fallen in a skirmish (whether an accidental one or +a decided combat made not the slightest difference). We knew their +barbarous custom; and, consequently, we were preparing for scenes of +deadly revenge and insatiable fury to be acted by both parties, and which +must have involved all settled here in destruction. Our feelings may +therefore be imagined, when we were informed that a parliament had been +convened, and all the parties interested were present by invitation, and +took part in the debate. A central spot was fixed on to accommodate the +various chieftains. The causes of the accident were then explained; they +wept and lamented the fallen chiefs, and finally retired satisfied to +their several homes. Surely everyone who is interested in tracing our own +form of government, from the present time up to its first rude outline, +will perceive the similarity of causes and events, and will anticipate +the glorious prospect of beholding a clever, brave, and, I may add, noble +race of men, like the New Zealanders, rescued from barbarism. This +pacific and rational discussion among the chiefs seems, in reality, to +give promise of the germ of a regular reform. Should a few more such +meetings take place, and terminate in the same amicable manner (and I +think it very probable), some clever individual may rise up amongst them, +take the reins in his own hands, and establish something like a regular +form of government. + + + + + +CHAPTER LI. + +OBSERVATIONS ON THE SOCIAL CONDITIONS OF THE MAORIS. + + +Feeling that I was not likely now to be called upon to act offensively, I +considered myself at liberty to make numerous excursions round our +fortress, not only to admire this fertile and beautiful country, but to +visit some of my old friends. I was very much astonished and shocked at +seeing several very beautiful young women, whom I left only a few months +back in perfect health and strength, now reduced to mere "living +skeletons," and also to hear of the death of others by consumption. This +disease seems to be the scourge of the young; and when they are once +seized with its symptoms, they are very speedily brought to the grave. +The natives say, "It is Atua, the Great Spirit, coming into them, and +eating up their inside; for the patient can feel those parts gradually go +away, and then they become weaker and weaker till no more is left; after +which the Spirit sends them to the happy island." They never attempt any +means of curing or of alleviating the pains caused by this cruel +complaint; and all those under its influence are tabooed. I procured from +the brig all my remaining stores of tapioca, sago, arrowroot, and sugar, +and distributed them in the best way I could amongst my sick friends. +They were anxious for wine; but that portion of my sea-stock, as well as +spirits, had been long since expended. + +It seems unaccountable that the natives of an atmosphere so dry as this +is--a country in which there are no marshy bogs, and where, though there +is an abundance of water, it is generally seen in clear and sparkling +rills rushing down from the mountains into the rivers--should be subject +to so fatal a disease as galloping consumption. The only cause to which I +can attribute such an affliction is, their indifference to lying out all +night exposed to every change of weather--to cold and rain--which, in +young and tender constitutions, must produce the most pernicious +consequences. If some few are rendered hardy and robust by this process, +many, no doubt, are killed by it. I endeavoured to impress on the minds +of all my female friends the great danger of thus exposing themselves to +cold; but they only laughed at my precautions, and said, "If Atua wished +it, so it must be; they could not strive with the Great Spirit." + +I have heard so much said about the great impropriety of the white +settlers admitting the native females into their society, so much of the +scandalous conduct of captains of ships suffering their men to have +sweethearts during their stay in port, and so much urged in justification +of the indignation shown by the missionaries when this subject is touched +on by them, that I feel it necessary to state one decided benefit which +has resulted from that intercourse, and which, in my opinion, far more +than counterbalances the evil against which there has been raised so loud +an outcry. + +Before our intercourse took place with the New Zealanders, a universal +and unnatural custom existed amongst them, which was that of destroying +most of their female children in infancy, their excuse being that they +were quite as much trouble to rear, and consumed just as much food, as a +male child, and yet, when grown up, they were not fit to go to war as +their boys were. The strength and pride of a chief then consisted in the +number of his sons; while the few females who had been suffered to live +were invariably looked down upon by all with the utmost contempt. They +led a life of misery and degradation. The difference now is most +remarkable. The natives, seeing with what admiration strangers beheld +their fine young women, and what handsome presents were made to them, by +which their families were benefited, feeling also that their influence +was so powerful over the white men, have been latterly as anxious to +cherish and protect their infant girls as they were formerly cruelly bent +on destroying them. Therefore, if one sin has been, to a certain degree, +encouraged, a much greater one has been annihilated. Infanticide, the +former curse of this country, and the cause of its scanty population, a +crime every way calculated to make men bloody-minded and ferocious, and +to stifle every benevolent and tender feeling, has totally disappeared +wherever an intercourse has taken place between the natives and the crews +of European vessels. + +The New Zealand method of "courtship and matrimony" is a most +extraordinary one; so much so, that an observer could never imagine any +affection existed between the parties. A man sees a woman whom he fancies +he should like for a wife; he asks the consent of her father, or, if an +orphan, of her nearest relation, which, if he obtains, he carries his +"intended" off by force, she resisting with all her strength; and, as the +New Zealand girls are generally pretty robust, sometimes a dreadful +struggle takes place; both are soon stripped to the skin, and it is +sometimes the work of hours to remove the fair prize a hundred yards. If +she breaks away, she instantly flies from her antagonist, and he has his +labour to commence again. We may suppose that if the lady feels any wish +to be united to her would-be spouse, she will not make too violent an +opposition; but it sometimes happens that she secures her retreat into +her father's house, and the lover loses all chance of ever obtaining her; +whereas, if he can manage to carry her in triumph into his own, she +immediately, becomes his wife. The women have a decided aversion to +marriage, which can scarcely be wondered at, when we consider how they +are circumstanced. While they remain single, they enjoy all the +privileges of the other sex; they may rove where they please, and bestow +their favours on whom they choose, and are entirely beyond control or +restraint; but when married their freedom is at an end; they become mere +slaves, and sink gradually into domestic drudges to those who have the +power of life and death over them; and whether their conduct be criminal +or exemplary, they are equally likely to receive a blow, in a moment of +passion, of sufficient force to end life and slavery together! There are +many exceptions to this frightful picture; and I saw several old couples, +who had been united in youth, who had always lived in happiness together, +and whose kind and friendly manner towards each other set an example well +worthy of imitation in many English families. + + + + + +CHAPTER LII. + +A MAORI TANGI. + + +April 2nd.--This day, perceiving that an unusual number of canoes were +passing up the river, all proceeding towards the village of Par-Finneigh, +we hailed one; and, upon its coming alongside, we inquired what had +occurred, for every appearance of bustle or commotion amongst this +restless and war-like people is truly alarming. They informed us that the +great chief A-Rowa, who died four months since, and the ceremony of whose +"lying in state" I had been permitted by his eldest son to be a witness +of, was this day to be exposed to the view of his friends; was to be +cried over; and was finally to be deposited in the tomb of his ancestors. +As this was one of their imposing spectacles which I had never yet seen, +I was anxious to witness it. We soon got a boat ready, and a party of us +joined the throng, and proceeded with them to the village. Upon our +arrival thither, we found an immense concourse of people assembled; for +here, as in most uncivilised or early states of society, the disposition +and good qualities of the deceased are made known by the number of +friends and followers who meet at his funeral. As these New Zealanders +were all fully equipped in arms, they had more the appearance of a +hostile meeting in an enemy's camp, than of a group of mourners about to +be occupied in the melancholy duty of depositing out of sight for ever +the last remains of a beloved chief. + +Mooetara, the son and successor of the deceased, came to meet us on the +beach, and seemed much gratified by our attention, our appearance on this +solemn occasion giving him importance in the eyes of all the natives then +assembled. He gave orders for our being conducted with much ceremony to +the place of mourning, where, amidst a number of uncouth pieces of +carving (which, we were informed were all tombs reared in honour of the +memory of several former chiefs, and all tabooed), was erected a small +hut, covered in at the top with thatch, but open at the sides. In the +centre of this hut the bones of the deceased chief were exposed to view. +After having undergone the process of decomposition during four months' +exposure to heat, wind, and rain, they had been collected, cleaned, and +decorated with a quantity of fresh white feathers, which rendered the +appearance of the skull still more frightful. + +The women here invariably perform the parts of chief mourners; a group of +them, with the widow of the deceased at their head, kept up a most +mournful cadence, and at every pause in their dismal song slashed their +skins with a piece of shell, till their faces, necks, and arms were +literally streaming down with blood. This mourning and cutting is +completely a matter of business, and is sometimes carried on without +their feeling any real sorrow or sympathy. Parties kept arriving, and +when there was not room for them to thrust themselves round the hut, they +sat down in groups, perfectly unconcerned, employing themselves in +cleaning their firelocks, or playing off upon each other some practical +joke; but the moment a vacant space was presented near the hut, they +deliberately stripped themselves, put on a most sorrowful countenance, +and, seating themselves as near to the ornamented bones as possible, they +immediately began their howling and slashing; no one seemed to like the +idea of being outdone by his neighbour; but when the time allotted to +this ceremony had expired, all instantly jumped up, wiped themselves, put +on their mats, and joined the busy throng. There was, indeed, one real +mourner, who never moved from the bones, nor once lifted up her eyes from +them; she neither howled nor cut herself, and yet she inspired me with +pity and commiseration for her forlorn state. This woman had been the +only wife of the late chief; and I was informed they had lived many years +together, and had a large family; she looked as if she herself was on the +very brink of the grave. The contemplation of the mouldering remains of +her partner through life must have been, even to her savage mind, most +lacerating. + +After witnessing several parties perform their funeral ceremonies, and +imbibing, in some degree, the melancholy tone of mind such a sight must +necessarily create, we arose and joined Mooetara. Here I witnessed a +scene that reminded me of an English country fair. An immense number of +temporary huts had been erected for the accommodation of the chiefs and +their families, where they might repose after their exertions, while +their slaves cooked their provisions, of which an abundant quantity had +been provided, consisting of piles of kumara and Indian corn, with heaps +of fish, which were served out, to all who came for them, with a most +liberal hand, and which, of course, added not a little to the pleasure of +the day. After all had satisfied their hunger (and even the lowest slaves +were permitted, on this occasion, to have as much as they wished for) +they jumped up, flew to their muskets, and commenced their war dance with +great noise and vigour. The violence of their exertions caused their +recent wounds to bleed afresh, and added much to the horror of their +hideous grimaces. They then divided into two parties, and had a sham +battle. I must here do justice to the temperate habits of my savage +friends. During my residence in New Zealand, I have known but very few +who were addicted to drinking, and I scarcely ever saw one of them in a +state of intoxication; and, on this occasion, where a profusion of what +they esteem delicacies was provided gratuitously, they partook so +moderately of the tempting fare as not to be prevented using the most +violent exertions immediately after their meal. The entertainment being +now over, the different parties gathered up what remained of the portions +of food distributed to them, and without taking any leave of their +entertainer, or returning any thanks for his bountiful providing, they +all entered their canoes and paddled away. + + + + + +CHAPTER LIII. + +CHARACTER OF THE NEW ZEALANDERS. + + +An unfortunate prejudice has gone forth into the world against the +natives of New Zealand, which I have always endeavoured to counteract +from a sense of justice, and, from a careful review of those +circumstances which have fallen immediately under my own observation; +this prejudice has long retarded our knowledge of their true character, +but error must gradually give way to truth; and as the circumstances +which first brought the stigma upon their name come to light, and are +investigated and properly explained, I feel confident the conduct of +these islanders will be found superior to that of any other nation in the +South Seas. If we take the whole catalogue of dreadful massacres they +have been charged with, and (setting aside partiality for our own +countrymen) allow them to be carefully examined, it will be found that we +have invariably been the aggressors; and when we have given serious cause +of offence, can we be so irrational as to express astonishment that a +savage should seek revenge? The last massacre was that of "The Boyd's" +crew; every impartial person who reads the account of that melancholy +transaction must acknowledge the unfortunate captain was most to blame. +But that event took place nineteen years back; since which time they know +us better, and respect us more; in proof of which, four years since, The +Mercury brig was taken possession of by a crowd of natives, after they +had endured a series of offences and every kind of ill-treatment; but the +difference in their fate, compared with that of The Boyd's ship's +company, was remarkable, and proved that the savage temper of the natives +was much softened down and humanised, as they merely plundered the +vessel, but made no attempt to murder or molest any of the crew, who, if +they had possessed sufficient courage, would not have sacrificed their +vessel; but, being terrified, they abandoned her, and she was finally +wrecked. During my residence, I never heard of one of the men having been +murdered; and I feel fully convinced no massacres will ever again be +committed in any of the ports in New Zealand where European vessels have +been accustomed to anchor. + +I once saw, with indignation, a chief absolutely knocked overboard from a +whaler's deck by the mate. Twenty years ago so gross an insult would have +cost the lives of every individual on board the vessel, but, at the time +this occurred, it was only made the subject of complaint, and finally +became a cause of just remonstrance with the commander of the whaler. The +natives themselves (and I have heard the opinions of various tribes) have +invariably told me that these things occurred from our want of knowledge +of their laws and customs, which compelled them to seek revenge. "It +was," they said, "no act of treachery on our part; we did not invite you +to our shores for the purpose of plunder and murder: but you came, and +ill-used us; you broke into our tabooed grounds. And did not Atua give +those bad white men into the hands of our fathers?" + +I am confident that a body of Europeans may now reside in perfect +security in any part of these islands. The late plundering of the +missionaries at Whangaroa was a peculiar circumstance, which might have +happened even in civilised Europe, had the seat of war approached so near +their place of residence. If their houses and chapel had been on the +plains of Waterloo during the June of 1815 they would not have +experienced a better fate. + +This recent tumult has brought a circumstance into notice highly +interesting to all who may hereafter wish to settle here. It has hitherto +been their custom, when an accident occurs, such as the sudden death of a +chief, to make a general plunder of everything belonging to the family of +the deceased, and all under their protection. A knowledge of this +horrible custom has deterred many from settling in New Zealand; and even +those who have resolved to run so great a risk have lived in a continued +state of alarm, lest the death of their protecting chief should leave +them at the mercy of a savage enemy. + +The deaths of Hongi and Shulitea placed the missionaries and all the +settlers on Kororarika Beach in considerable jeopardy: but it appeared as +if reason had begun to dawn on the minds of these benighted savages, for +this unjust and cruel custom was now for the first time discontinued. I +was on the beach at the time when an immense party, well armed, came for +the express purpose of satiating their revengeful feelings. I had taken +the precaution of removing what I possessed on board a whaler then lying +in the harbour. The chiefs first sat down to discuss the matter over +amongst themselves, and their deliberations ended in their being +satisfied with destroying the village of Matowe, the one adjoining ours, +and which had been the residence of Pomare's son, whose death was the +cause of all the late turbulent events. + +The great and leading defect in this country, and the principal cause of +their frequent wars and disturbances, which harass and depopulate the +tribes, and puts a stop to all improvement, is the want of some regular +system of government. There are only two classes of people--chiefs and +slaves; and, as consanguinity constitutes a high claim, the eldest son of +a large family, who can bring the greatest number of warriors of his own +name into the field, is considered the chief of that district or tribe; +and as he, by reason of his followers, can take possession of the +greatest number of prisoners or slaves, he becomes the ruling man. Every +other man of his tribe considers himself on an equality with him in +everything, except that he shows him obedience, and follows him to +battle. + +Each is independent in his own family, and holds uncontrolled power of +life and death over every individual it contains. They seem not to +exercise any coercion over the younger branches of a family, who are +allowed unbounded liberty till the girls have sweethearts and the boys +are strong enough to go to war. They are kind and hospitable to +strangers, and are excessively fond of their children. On a journey, it +is more usual to see the father carrying his infant than the mother; and +all the little offices of a nurse are performed by him with the tenderest +care and good humour. In many instances (wherein they differ from most +savage tribes) I have seen the wife treated as an equal and companion. In +fact, when not engaged in war, the New Zealander is quite a domestic, +cheerful, harmless character; but once rouse his anger, or turn him into +ridicule, and his disposition is instantly changed. A being, whose +passions have never been curbed from infancy, and whose only notion of +what he conceives to be his right is to retaliate for an offence with +blood, must naturally form a cruel and vindictive character. Such these +islanders seemed to us on our first visiting them. The sight of beings so +extraordinary (for thus we Europeans must have appeared to them) excited +in their savage minds the greatest wonder; and they thought we were sent +as a scourge and an enemy; and though Cook, one of their earliest +visitors, adopted every method his ingenuity could devise to conciliate +them, yet, as they never could thoroughly understand his intentions, they +were always on the alert to attack him. Hence arose the horror and +disgust expressed formerly at the mere mention of the name of "a New +Zealander." + +I have often tried, in vain, to account for there being such a decided +dissimilarity between the natives of New Holland and New Zealand. So +trifling is the difference in their situation on the globe, and so +_similar their climates_--both having remained so long unknown to the +great continents, and so devoid of intercourse with the rest of the +world--that one would be led to imagine a great resemblance must be the +result. But the natives of the former seem of the lowest grade--the last +link in the great chain of existence which unites man with the monkey. +Their limbs are long, thin, and flat, with large bony knees and elbows, a +projecting forehead, and pot-belly. The mind, too, seems adapted to this +mean configuration; they have neither energy, enterprise, nor industry; +and their curiosity can scarcely be excited. A few exceptions may be met +with; but these are their general characteristics. While the natives of +the latter island are "cast in beauty's perfect mould;" the children are +so fine and powerfully made, that each might serve as a model for a +statue of "the Infant Hercules;" nothing can exceed the graceful and +athletic forms of the men, or the rounded limbs of their young women. +These possess eyes beautiful and eloquent, and a profusion of long, +silky, curling hair; while the intellects of both sexes seem of a +superior order; all appear eager for improvement, full of energy, and +indefatigably industrious, and possessing amongst themselves several arts +which are totally unknown to their neighbours. + + + + + +CHAPTER LIV. + +THE SETTLEMENT AND TRADE OF HOKIANGA. + + +On April the 14th, our brig being stored with planks, flax, and potatoes, +and ready for sea, I went on board of her. We had fine weather till we +dropped down to the entrance of the river, where we intended taking in +our stock of water for the voyage, when the scene suddenly changed, and a +severe gale came on, right out to sea, which we could not avail ourselves +of; neither could we get the water off, as our rafts of casks got adrift +in the attempt to get them on board. To add to our disasters, one of our +cables parted, and we had to ride out the gale (of two days' continuance) +with one only, the sea rolling heavily right open before us, and we in +momentary expectation of the remaining cable's going; we had not a single +day's allowance of water on board, and at one period all hands (except +the carpenter and passengers) were out of the brig, on shore, filling the +casks. Fortunately for us, the cable proved a tough one; had it parted, +we should have been in a most perilous situation. + +April 20th.--For the last week we were stationary at the river's mouth, +waiting for a fair wind to carry us over the bar; and during that time +there was no appearance of any change; we also heard that vessels had +been detained here for six weeks before they could accomplish it. We +were visited daily by parties of natives, who seemed to rejoice at our +being delayed, as it gave them more of our company than they had +calculated upon. They were more delighted with our society than we were +with theirs; in a small vessel they are a serious nuisance, on account of +the swarms of vermin they bring with them, and which they communicate +liberally to all. Myself and all the passengers on board had our leisure +time fully occupied in dislodging these "little familiars" from their +strongholds in different parts of our apparel. + +During the time we were lying here, I saw and conversed with several +individuals who had attended the "Great Meeting," and their accounts gave +rise to various opinions respecting the policy of supplying the natives +with firearms. As I had always been an advocate for the measure, I was +gratified by hearing that it was thought to be in consequence of each +party's being possessed of a nearly equal quantity of muskets, that a +general and exterminating war was avoided. Some may suppose that similar +tranquility would have been preserved, had they been equally well +supplied with their native weapons of war; but that would not have been +the case. When they found that each party could furnish forth the same +number of European muskets, they paused, well knowing that it was +contrary to the wish of all the white settlers that they should proceed +to hostilities. Indeed, Europeans intrepidly mingled amongst them, urging +them to a reconciliation, and threatening that, if they failed in their +endeavours, the supplies of arms and ammunition should be discontinued. +This threat had its desired effect on the minds of the natives; no blood +was spilt, and each chief returned quietly to his own home. + +On the night we heard of the death of George and his wife, "Revenge and +war" was the universal cry. His party would not believe that it could be +an accident, nor would they hear of any apology being received. At this +time they imagined the tribes of Hokianga were possessed of but very few +firearms; and, as the skirmish took place in that district, it was +determined that an exterminating war should be carried into the heart of +it. However, before all the preparations could be made to carry their +intentions into effect, they received certain information that the people +of Hokianga were even better supplied with muskets than those of the Bay +of Islands. This intelligence occasioned an assemblage of the different +tribes to be proposed, and when it took place the friends of George saw +their opponents so well prepared for the "tug of war" that they deemed it +judicious to come forward and to shake hands and to acknowledge that the +death of Shulitea proceeded either from accident or mistake. A curious +circumstance took place in the midst of their debate. An old chief, who +wished for a fight, and did not approve of the introduction of firearms, +but was an advocate for the old method of New Zealand warfare, proposed +that each party should send away _all_ their muskets and ammunition, and +engage manfully with their own native weapons, and then it could be +easily proved which were the "best men;" but this mode of settling the +dispute, not being agreeable to the majority, was instantly negatived, +and treated with disdain. + +The colony of Scotch carpenters, who had formed a settlement at the head +of the river, and of whom I made "honourable mention" on my first +journey, finding themselves so close to what they feared might become +the seat of war, and having no means whatever of defending themselves, +made an arrangement with Mooetara, the chief of Parkunugh (which is +situated at the entrance of the same river), and placed themselves under +his protection. They accordingly moved down here, which gave great +satisfaction to that chief. Neither could their former protector, +Patuone, feel offended at their removal, from the peculiar nature of the +circumstances they were placed in. These hardy North Britons were +delighted to find a reasonable excuse for moving, their former +establishment being situated too far from the sea for them to reap any +advantage from ships coming into port. Nothing can be more gratifying +than to behold the great anxiety of the natives to induce Englishmen to +settle amongst them; it ensures their safety; and no one act of treachery +is on record of their having practised towards those whom they had +invited to reside with them. + +Mooetara is a man of great property and high rank, and is considered a +very proud chief by the natives; yet he is to be seen every day working +as hard as any slave in assisting in the erection of houses for the +accommodation of his new settlers. He has actually removed from his old +village of Parkunugh (a strong and beautiful place), and is erecting huts +for his tribe near the spot chosen by his new friends; so that, in a very +short time, a barren point of land, hitherto without a vestige of a human +habitation, will become a thriving and populous village, for it is +incredible how quickly the orders of these chiefs are carried into +effect. I was frequently a witness to the short space of time they took +to erect their houses; and, though small, they are tight, weather-proof, +and warm: their storehouses are put together in the most substantial and +workmanlike manner. + +It is very difficult to make the New Zealanders explain the nature of +their religious belief. One superstition seems general with all the +tribes respecting the formation of the world, or, rather, of their own +island, for that is the place of the first importance in their +estimation. They say a man, or a god, or some great spirit, was fishing +in his war-canoe, and pulled up a large fish, which instantly turned into +an island; and a lizard came upon that, and brought up a man out of the +water by his long hair; and he was the father of all the New Zealanders. +Almost all their grotesque carvings are illustrations of this idea in +some way or other. The favourite theme on which (I observed) the +missionaries discoursed to them were "the torments of hell." This has +become a subject of ridicule to most of the natives; they do not deny +that there may be such a place, but they add, it is not for them, for if +Atua had intended it so he would have sent them word about it long before +he sent the white men into their country; and they conclude by stating +that they know perfectly well the situation of the island where they are +to go to after this life. + + + + + +CHAPTER LV. + +MASSACRE OF A SCHOONER'S CREW. + + +While remaining here wind-bound, in imaginary security, and amusing +ourselves with noticing the curious customs and peculiarities of these +islanders, a dreadful tragedy was taking place only a few miles' distance +from us, and to which I before alluded, when I mentioned crossing the bar +on our first arrival from Port Jackson. The Enterprise schooner, a very +fine vessel, which was built at the settlement on this river, had been +sent to Sydney, and while we were lying there we were in hourly +expectation of her return. She did return. The unfavourable weather which +detained us so long proved fatal to her, and she was wrecked a few miles +to the northward of the river's mouth, and every soul on board perished. + +The moment this catastrophe was known every European hastened to the +spot, and, with feelings of horror, perceived but too plainly, from the +appearance of the wreck and the boat, and by finding also the clothes of +the crew, that they had reached the shore in safety, and had afterwards +all been murdered; but how, or by whom, it was impossible to discover. +The most probable conclusion was that the tribes situated around the +European dockyard at Hokianga, having meditated for some time past a +great war-like expedition, waited the return of this schooner from Sydney +to possess themselves of an additional supply of arms and ammunition, +which might enable them to take the field with a certainty of conquest. +They had regularly purchased the cargo of this vessel by their labour +and their merchandise, and the schooner was merely employed to convey it +thither from Sydney, for the use of the natives; unhappily for the poor +creatures on board, in running for the mouth of the river, she fell to +leeward, and got stranded on the beach, in the very territory of that +tribe against whom these preparations were made--the tribe intended to be +invaded. Though no formal declaration of war had taken place, the tribes +well knew the preparations that were making against them, and the nature +of the cargo contained in The Enterprise; falling into the hands of such +fierce and vindictive savages, the fate of the crew may be imagined--all +our poor fellows were sacrificed to gratify their feelings of revenge. + +Mooetara (the friendly chief of Hokianga) no sooner heard of the fate of +the vessel and her crew than he hastened with his party to the spot; it +was owing to the investigation which then took place that the conclusion +was arrived at that all had been murdered. What remained for Mooetara to +do (according to their savage notion of what was right) was to take ample +revenge on all the hostile tribes that might fall in his way, whether our +poor countrymen met their deaths through accident or treachery. Mooetara +instantly commenced the work of destruction; and, having made his +vengeance complete, he returned laden with spoil. The promptness with +which he acted on this melancholy occasion greatly increased the feelings +of security possessed by those Englishmen settled on the banks of the +river, as it proved to them that he was both able and willing to protect +them, and though the dead could not be restored, yet he had inflicted an +awful punishment on their murderers. + + + + + +CHAPTER LVI. + +FAREWELL TO NEW ZEALAND. + + +On the 21st a fair wind and smooth sea favoured our departure. Early in +the morning the natives who were on board assured us everything would +facilitate our passing over the bar with safety, and they prepared to +leave the ship. When the moment of separation came, it caused a great +deal of emotion on both sides. I must confess I felt much affected when I +came to rub noses, shake hands, and say "Farewell" to these kind-hearted +people. I saw them go over the ship's side, and reflected that I should +never behold them more. There is always something repugnant to our +feelings in the idea of separating from any being for ever; and as, in +this instance, I felt assured that this was our last time of meeting, it +cast a gloom over the pleasure the fair wind and smooth sea would +otherwise have afforded me. As we fell down towards the river's mouth, +and, indeed, as long as their canoes were to be seen, they kept waving +their hands towards us. + +Thus terminated my visit to the islands of New Zealand. I had arrived +with feelings of fear and disgust, and was merely induced to take up a +temporary residence amongst the natives, in hopes of finding something +new for my pencil in their peculiar and picturesque style of life. I left +them with opinions, in many respects, very favourable towards them. It +is true, they are cunning and over-reaching in trade, and filthy in their +persons. In regard to the former, we Europeans, I fear, set them a bad +example; of the latter, they will gradually amend. Our short visit to +Kororarika greatly improved them in that particular. All took great pains +to come as clean as possible when they attended our "evening +tea-parties." In my opinion, their sprightly, free, and independent +deportment, together with their kindness and attention to strangers, +compensates for many defects. + +On looking round upon their country, an Englishman cannot fail to feel +gratified when he beholds the good already resulting to these poor +savages from their intercourse with his countrymen; and they themselves +are fully sensible of, and truly grateful for, every mark of kindness +manifested towards them. They have stores full of the finest Indian corn, +which they consider a great luxury, a food which requires little trouble +in preparing, keeps well, and is very nutritious. It is but a few years +since this useful grain was introduced amongst them; and I sincerely hope +this introduction may be followed up, not only by our sending out to them +seeds of vegetables and fruits, but by our forwarding to them every +variety of quadruped which can be used for food. Abundance of the finest +water-melons are daily brought alongside vessels entering their ports; +these, in point of flavour, are superior to any I ever met with. I have +no doubt every variety of European produce essential to the support of +life would thrive equally well; and as food became abundant, and luxuries +were introduced, their disgusting feasts on human flesh would soon be +discontinued altogether. + +We were soon at sea, and speedily felt considerable apprehensions as to +the safe termination of our voyage. Our vessel (the brig Governor +Macquarie) we well knew was a leaky one, though her leaks did not +distress us on the outward voyage, she being then only in ballast trim; +but now that she was loaded to the water's edge, and the winter coming +on, we became greatly alarmed for her. Another disagreeable circumstance +was having no bread or flour on board. To obviate the first evil, and to +save the sailors a great deal of hard labour, our Captain offered to give +a passage to Sydney to several natives, who accepted his offer, they +being always anxious to see the colony; we likewise had on board the +great Chief from the Thames, who had caused us so much trouble at +Kororarika. These men, being fine, strong, active young fellows, were +indefatigable in their exertions at the pumps; and though we had to +contend with much heavy weather, and contrary winds, they kept our vessel +pretty dry. The want of bread was not so easily remedied; though our +Captain treated it lightly, saying he was sure of getting a supply by +making a requisition to the missionaries. He accordingly waited upon +them, and acquainted them with our distressed condition; they had plenty +(for only a few weeks previously they had received a large supply), and +as we knew their agent at Sydney, Mr. Campbell, we had no doubt of +procuring a sufficiency from them to carry us home; but in this we were +disappointed. Captain Kent did not ask them for a supply as a gift, but +solicited merely the _loan_ of a cask or two till we arrived at Sydney, +when he guaranteed that the owners of the brig should return the same +quantity into the missionary storehouse there. The little monosyllable +_No_ was again put in requisition, with this qualification--"that they +did not like the Botany Bay skippers." Through their "dislike," the +passengers and seamen of the brig might have gone unprovided to sea, had +not a "worldly-minded" whaler (fortunately for us) at that critical +moment come into port, who, the instant he heard of the ill-success of +our entreaty, vented his indignation in pretty coarse language, and said, +"if it detained his vessel a week, he would supply us;" and he kept his +word; he gave us a bountiful supply, which rendered us comfortable during +the whole way home. + +It was most interesting to observe our savages when we got well out to +sea. They soon appeared to become accustomed to their novel situation, +and seemed to feel quite at home and at their ease "on board ship." Their +exertions at the pumps were indefatigable. I felt convinced they thought +that during all voyages the same labour was gone through to keep the +vessel afloat; and as it only required strength and exertion, they +cheerfully took that department entirely to themselves, especially as +they soon perceived how useless they were when they attempted to perform +any other duty on board of the brig, as their knowledge of voyaging +extended no further than the distance they go in their own canoes, which, +though very beautiful, are sad leaky things at sea; and as, during the +time they are out, the greater part of the crew are baling the water out +of them, they thought the leaky state of our vessel was no uncommon +occurrence. But however cheerfully they worked during the day, nothing +could induce them to "turn out" at night; they always stowed themselves +away, but in what part of the vessel I never could conjecture. They have +a dread of some unknown evil spirit, which they imagine has power over +them at night; and this supposition makes them terrible cowards in the +dark. + +The second day after we were at sea, I saw a group of savages lying round +the binnacle, all intently occupied in observing the phenomenon of the +magnetic attraction; they seemed at once to comprehend the purpose to +which it was applied, and I listened with eager curiosity to their +remarks upon it. + +"This," said they, "is the white man's God, who directs them safely to +different countries, and then can guide them home again." Out of +compliment to us, and respect for its wonderful powers, they seemed much +inclined to worship this silent little monitor. + +During our voyage to Port Jackson we experienced a succession of +southerly gales, which Captain Kent informed me were very prevalent at +this season of the year. Notwithstanding all our exertions to prevent it, +we were carried considerably to leeward of the port. We made Lord Howe's +Islands, whose high and bold features rise, as it were, out of the ocean; +as we passed close to them, we perceived they were well wooded and +watered; and one of the men, who had been on shore there, informed me that +there was a tolerably good harbour for small craft. A few miles to the +southward of these islands is Ball's Pyramid, a most singular and +sublime-looking rock, rising perpendicularly out of the sea to a height +of a thousand feet; the base of it is enveloped in perpetual surf, +dashing and climbing up its craggy sides. Its appearance, as we saw it, +relieved by the setting sun, and the coming on of a stormy night, was +awful in the extreme! + +Nothing could exceed the delight manifested by our New Zealanders as we +sailed up Port Jackson harbour; but, above all, the windmills most +astonished them. After dancing and screaming with joy at beholding them, +they came running and asking me "if they were not gods." I found they +were inclined to attach that sacred appellation to most things they could +not understand; they did so when they first became possessed of their +muskets, and actually worshipped them, until they discovered how soon +they got out of repair, and then, notwithstanding all the prayers they +could bestow upon them, they would not mend again of their own accord. + +Our Chief from the Thames, who had a great idea of his own dignity, +commenced adorning his person, as he felt convinced the Governor would +instantly grant him an audience when he came on shore. All our lamps were +emptied to add a more beautiful gloss to his hair and complexion; his +whole stock of feathers and bones were arranged to the greatest +advantage. He at length became quite enraged when he found that he was +allowed to sit two days on our deck, amongst all manner of dirty porters +and sailors, without either being visited or sent for; and he was loud in +his reproaches to us for having deceived him. We certainly were to blame +in having induced him to believe we had any influence with the Governor, +for however politic we (who had lived in New Zealand) might think it, to +pay some attentions to these simple savages, his Excellency, +unfortunately, thought otherwise; and though the Chief, attended by his +followers, used to sit in the verandah at Government House from morning +till night, the Governor never once deigned to speak to them, and they +were, in consequence, constantly coming to me with complaints. At length +they told me that unless they obtained an audience from our Chief they +should consider it so great an insult that they would revenge it upon all +the Europeans they could get into their power; and I, well knowing that +several families were settled in that part of the country wherein this +man was Chief, thought it my duty to let the Governor know, that, however +he might dislike their manners and appearance, it might lead to some +serious calamity, if he continued to refuse to give them an audience. + +I accordingly waited upon the Brigade Major, and explained to him how +unwise it was to treat these men with such undisguised contempt. The +result was, the Governor saw the affair in the same point of view as +myself, and condescended to meet them and converse with them for about +five minutes; and with that they were satisfied. Other heads of +departments (civil and military) behaved differently, and evidently felt +a pleasure in having them with them. The Commander of the troops suffered +them to sit at the same table with himself and officers, and had the +war-dance performed in the mess-room, which I thought would have brought +the house down upon our heads. He likewise permitted them to fall into +the ranks with the soldiers, which pleased them beyond everything, +inasmuch as they considered it a higher honour in being permitted to +stand by our warriors on the martial parade than to take food with our +Chiefs at their own table! + +The Attorney-General of the colony took a particular interest in these +savages, and gave a large party, to which they were invited. Several of +the visitors on this occasion came out of curiosity to see how these +cannibals would conduct themselves, expecting, no doubt, to witness a +display of disgusting gluttony; but in that they were disappointed, for +never did any set of men behave with greater decorum than they did. + +On being apprised of this invitation, they were all most anxious to +obtain European dresses, and when we refused to lend them ours, they +requested of our servants the loan of a suit. This being denied them +also, with the little money they had they attempted to bargain for whole +suits of _convict_ dresses, in order to make their _debut_ in style at +the table of the Attorney-General! When I discovered this to be the case, +I explained to them the impropriety of their conduct, and roused their +pride by pointing out to them the absurdity of men of their high rank in +their own country wishing to appear in the cast-off dress of degraded +slaves, and how much more suitable it was to the dignity of their +character to appear in their own national costume. Accordingly, on the +appointed day, they met the company superbly attired in mats and +feathers; they made a splendid show at the dinner-table, and afforded +great amusement to the evening visitors. At an early hour they got very +sleepy, but were too polite to hint how much they felt oppressed by +drowsiness. I saw their eyes grow heavy, and perceived that it was +difficult for them to sit upright on their chairs. I mentioned these +symptoms to their kind host, who immediately consented to their retiring. +They accordingly withdrew into a corner of one of the adjoining rooms, +where, lying down huddled together, and covering themselves with their +mats, they were soon asleep, and gave no interruption to anyone during +the remainder of the evening. + +The greatest treat it was in our power to bestow on them was to take them +to a review of the troops then stationed at Sydney. The splendour of +their regimentals, the regularity of their movements, and the precision +of their firing, made them nearly mad with delight; they ran about the +plain literally wild with joy, occasionally stopping to gaze with wonder +on men performing what they deemed such prodigies. In their ecstasies +they occasionally vociferated their own furious war-whoop. Their +extravagant expressions of delight, and their many extraordinary +gestures, caused great amusement both to the military and to the +spectators assembled on the ground; and when the review was over my +savage friends were quite exhausted with fatigue and excitement. + +After two months' residence at Sydney we had an opportunity of procuring +a passage for them to their own country; and they departed, expressing +the greatest gratitude for our attentions towards them. They were loaded +with presents of all descriptions; for, finding they generally got what +they begged for, while here, they importuned everyone they met, and they +used daily to return home burthened with the most miscellaneous and +extraordinary jumble of commodities it was possible to conceive; for, as +everything they then beheld was new to them, and might be (they thought) +of some service to them in their own country, each trifle was of great +value in their estimation, and was carefully stowed away. They always +expressed their concern that so few muskets were given to them, and that +they were presented with ammunition in such small quantities. War-like +stores were their grand desideratum; and though they would accept of any +thing you chose to give them, yet they always had hopes they should +finally receive their favourite presents of a stocking of powder, a piece +of lead, or a musket. + +THE END. + + + + + +APPENDIX I. + +MASSACRE OF CAPT. FURNEAUX'S BOAT'S CREW. + +CANNIBALISM OF THE MAORIS. + + +[_The following is the account given by Captain Furneaux of the massacre +of his boat's crew, referred to in Earle's narrative on page 24._] + + * * * * * + +The Resolution, under command of Captain Cook, and the Adventure, +commanded by Captain Furneaux, sailed from Plymouth on the 13th April, +1772, to continue the exploration of New Zealand begun during Captain +Cook's first voyage. The vessels became finally separated in a gale off +Cape Palliser in October, 1773, and the two navigators did not meet again +until after Cook's return to England in July, 1775. + +Captain Furneaux reported that while his ship was refitting in Queen +Charlotte Sound the astronomer's tent was robbed by a party of natives. +One who was seen escaping was fired upon and wounded, when he and his +confederates made for the woods, leaving their canoe with most of the +stolen goods on the shore. "This petty larceny," Captain Furneaux +remarks, "probably laid the foundation of that dreadful catastrophe which +soon after happened," and which he thus describes: + +"On Friday, the 17th, we sent out our large cutter, manned with seven +seamen, under the command of Mr. John Rowe, the first mate, accompanied +by Mr. Woodhouse, midshipman, and James Tobias Swilley, the carpenter's +servant. They were to proceed up the Sound to Grass Cove to gather greens +and celery for the ship's company, with orders to return that evening; +for the tents had been struck at two in the afternoon, and the ship made +ready for sailing the next day. Night coming on, and no cutter appearing, +the captain and others began to express great uneasiness. They sat up all +night in expectation of their arrival, but to no purpose. At daybreak, +therefore, the captain ordered the launch to be hoisted out. She was +double manned, and under the command of our second lieutenant, Mr. +Burney, accompanied by Mr. Freeman, master, the corporal of marines, with +five private men, all well armed, and having plenty of ammunition and +three days' provision. They were ordered first to look into East Bay, +then to proceed to Grass Cove, and if nothing was to be seen or heard of +the cutter there, they were to go farther up the cove, and return by the +west shore. Mr. Rowe having left the ship an hour before the time +proposed for his departure, we thought his curiosity might have carried +him into East Bay, none of our people having ever been there, or that +some accident might have happened to the boat, for not the least +suspicion was entertained of the natives. Mr. Burney returned about +eleven o'clock the same night, and gave us a pointed description of a +most horrible scene, described in the following relation:-- + +"'On Saturday, the 18th, we left the ship about nine o'clock in the +morning. We soon got round Long Island and Long Point. We continued +sailing and rowing for East Bay, keeping close in shore, and examining +with our glasses every cove on the larboard side, till near two o'clock +in the afternoon, at which time we stopped at a beach on our left going +up East Bay, to dress our dinner. + +"'About five o'clock in the afternoon, and within an hour after we had +left this place, we opened a small bay adjoining to Grass Cove, and here +we saw a large double canoe just hauled upon the beach, with two men and +a dog. The two men, on seeing us approach, instantly fled, which made us +suspect it was here we should have some tidings of the cutter. On landing +and examining the canoe, the first thing we saw therein was one of our +cutter's rowlock ports and some shoes, one of which among the latter was +known to belong to Mr. Woodhouse. A piece of flesh was found by one of +our people, which at first was thought to be some of the salt meat +belonging to the cutter's men, but, upon examination, we supposed to be +dog's flesh. A most horrid and undeniable proof soon cleared up our +doubts, and convinced us we were among no other than cannibals; for, +advancing further on the beach, we saw about twenty baskets tied up, and +a dog eating a piece of broiled flesh, which, upon examination, we +suspected to be human. We cut open the baskets, some of which were full +of roasted flesh, and others of fern root, which serves them for bread. +Searching others, we found more shoes and a hand, which was immediately +known to have belonged to Thos. Hill, one of our forecastle men, it +having been tattooed with the initials of his name. We now proceeded a +little way in the woods, but saw nothing else. Our next design was to +launch the canoe, intending to destroy her; but seeing a great smoke +ascending over the nearest hill, we made all possible haste to be with +them before sunset. + +"'At half after six we opened Grass Cove, where we saw one single and +three double canoes, and a great many natives assembled on the beach, who +retreated to a small hill, within a ship's length of the water side, +where they stood talking to us. On the top of the high land, beyond the +woods, was a large fire, from whence, all the way down the hill, the +place was thronged like a fair. When we entered the cove, a musketoon was +fired at one of the canoes, as we imagined they might be full of men +lying down, for they were all afloat, but no one was seen in them. Being +doubtful whether their retreat proceeded from fear or a desire to decoy +us into an ambuscade, we were determined not to be surprised, and +therefore, running close in shore, we dropped the grappling near enough +to reach them with our guns, but at too great a distance to be under any +apprehensions from their treachery. The savages on the little hill kept +their ground, hallooing, and making signs for us to land. At these we now +took aim, resolving to kill as many of them as our bullets would reach, +yet it was some time before we could dislodge them. The first volley did +not seem to affect them much, but on the second they began to scramble +away as fast as they could, some howling and others limping. We continued +to fire as long as we could see the least glimpse of any of them through +the bushes. Among these were two very robust men, who maintained their +ground without moving an inch till they found themselves forsaken by all +their companions, and then, disdaining to run, they marched off with +great composure and deliberation. One of them, however, got a fall, and +either lay there or crawled away on his hands and feet; but the other +escaped without any apparent hurt. Mr. Burney now improved their panic, +and, supported by the marines, leaped on shore and pursued the fugitives. +We had not advanced far from the water-side, on the beach, before we met +with two bunches of celery, which had been gathered by the cutter's crew. +A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to which the natives had +tied their canoes, whereby we were convinced this was the spot where the +attack had been made. We now searched all along at the back of the beach, +to see if the cutter was there, but instead of her, the most horrible +scene was presented to our view; for there lay the hearts, heads, and +lungs of several of our people, with hands and limbs in a mangled +condition, some broiled and some raw; but no other parts of their bodies, +which made us suspect that the cannibals had feasted upon and devoured +the rest. At a little distance we saw the dogs gnawing their entrails. We +observed a large body of the natives collected together on a hill about +two miles off, but as night drew on apace, we could not advance to such a +distance; neither did we think it safe to attack them, or even to quit +the shore to take an account of the number killed, our troop being a very +small one, and the savages were both numerous, fierce, and much +irritated. While we remained almost stupefied on the spot, Mr. Fannen +said that he heard the cannibals assembling in the woods, on which we +returned to our boat, and having hauled alongside the canoes, we +demolished three of them. During this transaction the fire on the top of +the hill disappeared, and we could hear the savages in the woods at high +words, quarrelling, perhaps, on account of their different opinions, +whether they should attack us and try to save their canoes. They were +armed with long lances, and weapons not unlike a sergeant's halbert in +shape, made of hard wood, and mounted with bone instead of iron. We +suspected that the dead bodies of our people had been divided among those +different parties of cannibals who had been concerned in the massacre, +and it was not improbable that the group we saw at a distance by the fire +were feasting upon some of them, as those on shore had been where the +remains were found, before they had been disturbed by our unexpected +visit. Be that as it may, we could discover no traces of more than four +of our friends' bodies, nor could we find the place where the cutter was +concealed. It now grew dark, on which account we collected carefully the +remains of our mangled friends, and, putting off, made the best of our +way from this polluted place. When we opened the upper part of the Sound, +we saw a very large fire about three or four miles higher up, which +formed a complete oval, reaching from the top of a hill down almost to +the water-side, the middle space being enclosed all round by the fire, +like a hedge. Mr. Burney and Mr. Fannen having consulted together, they +were both of opinion that we could, by an attempt, reap no other +advantage than the poor satisfaction of killing some more of the savages. +Upon leaving Grass Cove we had fired a volley towards where we heard the +Indians talking, but by going in and out of the boat our pieces had got +wet, and four of them missed fire. What rendered our situation more +critical, it began to rain, and our ammunition was more than half +expended. We, for these reasons, without spending time where nothing +could be hoped for but revenge, proceeded for the ship, and arrived safe +aboard before midnight.'" + +It is a little remarkable that Captain Furneaux had been several times up +Grass Cove with Captain Cook, where they saw no inhabitants, and no other +signs of any but a few deserted villages, which appeared as if they had +not been occupied for many years, and yet, in Mr. Burney's opinion, when +he entered the same cove, there could not be less than fifteen hundred or +two thousand people. + +On Thursday, the 23rd of December, the Adventure departed from, and made +sail out of, the Sound. She stood to the eastward, to clear the straits, +which was happily effected the same evening; but the ship was baffled for +two or three days with light winds before she could clear the coast. In +this interval of time the chests and effects of the ten men who had been +murdered were sold before the mast, according to an old sea custom. + +When Captain Cook was in the Sound on his third voyage, he learned that +the massacre arose over an unpremeditated quarrel. Kahura, who had been +active in the tragedy, told Cook that a Maori having brought a stone +hatchet to barter, the man to whom it was offered took it, and would +neither return it nor give anything for it, and on which the owner +snatched some bread from the party of Europeans, who were at dinner on +the beach, as an equivalent, and then the quarrel began. Kahura himself +had a narrow escape of being shot, while another was shot beside him; and +the Europeans, outnumbered, were surrounded and killed. It was also +stated by the natives that not one of the shots fired by the party of +Captain Furneaux led by Mr. Burney to search for the missing people had +taken effect so as to kill or even to hurt a single person. + + + + + +APPENDIX II. + +THE DEATH OF WHAREUMU (KING GEORGE). + + +The death of this Bay of Islands chief, who acted as protector to Mr. +Earle during his residence at Kororareka, is thus described by Messrs. +Hobbs and Stack, Wesleyan missionaries at Hokianga, in a letter dated +from Mangungu, Hokianga, on the 22nd March, 1828:-- + +"On the same day that Hongi died at Whangaroa a son of the late Pomare's, +named Tiki, was killed at Waima by a chief of the tribe called +Mahurihuri. Waima is in Hokianga, and only a few miles distance from us. +The cause of the quarrel was this: Tiki had had some of his pigs stolen +by the natives of Waima, and he was seeking utu by robbing their sweet +potato plantations, for which he was shot. + +"As soon as the report of the young man's death reached the Bay of +Islands, 400 natives collected together, forming two divisions, under two +separate chiefs, Whareumu, or, as he is called by the Europeans, King +George, and Toi, and came to Hokianga. Toi and his party arrived first at +Waima, where he found Patuone and all the natives and other chiefs of our +district. After robbing the natives of Waima of their potatoes, etc., +peace was made, and no further evil consequences seemed likely to arise. +The next day, the 14th, Whareumu and his party arrived. He was highly +displeased with Toi for having made peace on such easy terms. He +prevailed upon him, therefore, to break his league. Whareumu was also +very insolent to Muriwai, intimated that he was a coward, and poured +contempt upon the idea of the Hokianga natives standing in their own +defence. On the morning of the 15th a quarrel ensued between the 400 Bay +of Islanders and the natives of Waima, our natives also having now become +their allies. This fray did not at the outset seem likely to be attended +with fatal results, but, as Solomon justly observes, the beginning of +strife is like the letting out of water; so it was in this instance. +Shots were fired on both sides till several were killed and wounded. At +length Muriwai, who was a pacificator, was wounded and fell. Supposing he +was killed, our natives (for the natives of Waima fled as soon as matters +assumed a serious aspect) no longer regarded matters lightly, but turned +round in great rage, for they also were in the act of retreating, and +singled out Whareumu as a satisfaction for Muriwai. Whareumu received two +balls before he was killed. The one which killed him went through his +throat. As soon as he fell all his followers fled, leaving about nine of +their companions dead on the field, amongst whom was Oro, the chief who +commenced our Whangaroa robbing. This ended the contest. Patuone and Nene +immediately took up the body of the fallen chief and made great +lamentation over him, and have since placed his body between the bodies +of their own relations as a mark of respect." + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative of a Nine Months' +Residence in New Zealand in 1827, by Augustus Earle + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEW ZEALAND IN 1827 *** + +***** This file should be named 11933-8.txt or 11933-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/1/9/3/11933/ + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram and PG Distributed Proofreaders + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Narrative of a Nine Months' Residence in New Zealand in 1827 + +Author: Augustus Earle + +Release Date: April 7, 2004 [EBook #11933] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEW ZEALAND IN 1827 *** + + + + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram and PG Distributed Proofreaders + + + + + +</pre> + + +<br> + +<h1>A NARRATIVE OF A NINE MONTHS' RESIDENCE IN NEW ZEALAND</h1> + +<h2>IN 1827</h2> + +<h3>BY</h3> + +<h2>AUGUSTUS EARLE</h2> + +<h3>DRAUGHTSMAN TO HIS MAJESTY'S SURVEYING SHIP</h3> + +<h3>"THE BEAGLE."</h3> + +<h5>Whitecombe & Tombs Limited</h5> + +<h5>Christchurch, Wellington, and Dunedin, N.Z.;</h5> + +<h5>Melbourne and London</h5> + +<h5>1909</h5> + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> + +<a name="image-1"><!-- Image 1 --></a> +<center> +<img src="img/img1.jpg" width="600" height="344" alt="A New Zealand War Speech. (From a sketch by A. Earle.)" title="A New Zealand War Speech. (From a sketch by A. Earle.)"> +</center> +<h5>A New Zealand War Speech. (From a sketch by A. Earle.</h5> + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> + +<center> +<b>CONTENTS</b><br><br> + <a href="#LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"><b>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</b></a><br><br> +<!-- Autogenerated TOC. Modify or delete as required. --> + <a href="#INTRODUCTION"><b>INTRODUCTION</b></a><br><br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_I"><b>CHAPTER I</b></a><br> +VOYAGE FROM SYDNEY<br> +WRECKS AT HOKIANGA<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_II"><b>CHAPTER II</b></a><br> +MAORI WELCOME<br> +NATIVE CHARACTERISTICS<br> +EUROPEANS AT HOKIANGA<br> +CANNIBALISM<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_III"><b>CHAPTER III</b></a><br> +A MAORI VILLAGE<br> +THE TAPU ON CROPS<br> +MAORI ART<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_IV"><b>CHAPTER IV</b></a><br> +HOKIANGA RIVER<br> +MR. HOBBS' MISSION<br> +THE TIMBER INDUSTRY<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_V"><b>CHAPTER V</b></a><br> +AN OVERLAND JOURNEY<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_VI"><b>CHAPTER VI</b></a><br> +THE CHIEF PATUONE<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_VII"><b>CHAPTER VII</b></a><br> +A PICTURESQUE SCENE<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_VIII"><b>CHAPTER VIII</b></a><br> +IN THE DENSE FOREST<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_IX"><b>CHAPTER IX</b></a><br> +THE KERIKERI MISSION<br> +INHOSPITABLE RECEPTION<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_X"><b>CHAPTER X</b></a><br> +THE BAY OF ISLANDS<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XI"><b>CHAPTER XI</b></a><br> +MASSACRE OF THE BOYD<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XII"><b>CHAPTER XII</b></a><br> +KORORAREKA<br> +A MIXED COMMUNITY<br> +SHULITEA (KING GEORGE)<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XIII"><b>CHAPTER XIII</b></a><br> +MAORI CONSERVATISM<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XIV"><b>CHAPTER XIV</b></a><br> +A MISSION SETTLEMENT<br> +THE MECHANIC MISSIONARY<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XV"><b>CHAPTER XV</b></a><br> +VISIT FROM HONGI<br> +HONGI'S COAT OF MAIL<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XVI"><b>CHAPTER XVI</b></a><br> +INTERVIEW WITH HONGI<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XVII"><b>CHAPTER XVII</b></a><br> +A MAORI WELCOME<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII"><b>CHAPTER XVIII</b></a><br> +INLAND EXCURSIONS<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XIX"><b>CHAPTER XIX</b></a><br> +MAORI WOMEN'S CAMP<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XX"><b>CHAPTER XX</b></a><br> +LOADING SPARS, HOKIANGA<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXI"><b>CHAPTER XXI</b></a><br> +DEATH OF A CHIEF<br> +TRADING WITH MAORIS<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXII"><b>CHAPTER XXII</b></a><br> +BRUTAL MURDER OF A WIFE<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII"><b>CHAPTER XXIII</b></a><br> +ANOTHER JOURNEY<br> +INTERIOR OF THE COUNTRY<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV"><b>CHAPTER XXIV</b></a><br> +A WAR PARTY<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXV"><b>CHAPTER XXV</b></a><br> +HOSTILE DISPLAY<br> +THE LAW OF MURU<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI"><b>CHAPTER XXVI</b></a><br> +A SEDUCTION AND ITS CONSEQUENCES<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII"><b>CHAPTER XXVII</b></a><br> +LAW OF RETALIATION<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII"><b>CHAPTER XXVIII</b></a><br> +A WAR EXPEDITION<br> +CANNIBALISM<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXIX"><b>CHAPTER XXIX</b></a><br> +MAORI SLAVERY<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXX"><b>CHAPTER XXX</b></a><br> +PIRACY BY CONVICTS<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXXI"><b>CHAPTER XXXI</b></a><br> +N.Z. CLIMATE<br> +THE STARVATION CURE<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXXII"><b>CHAPTER XXXII</b></a><br> +THE ART OF TATTOOING<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXXIII"><b>CHAPTER XXXIII</b></a><br> +TRIBAL GOVERNMENT<br> +MAORI BELIEFS<br> +THE CUSTOM OF TAPU<br> +SUNDAY OBSERVANCE<br> +MASSACRE OF FRENCH NAVIGATOR MARION AND PARTY<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXXIV"><b>CHAPTER XXXIV</b></a><br> +THE MAORIS' VIEW OF CHRISTIANITY<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXXV"><b>CHAPTER XXXV</b></a><br> +HONGI'S THREATS<br> +PREPARING FOR WAR<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXXVI"><b>CHAPTER XXXVI</b></a><br> +ARRIVAL OF A WARSHIP<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXXVII"><b>CHAPTER XXXVII</b></a><br> +WHALERS AND MISSIONARIES<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXXVIII"><b>CHAPTER XXXVIII</b></a><br> +THREATENED WAR<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXXIX"><b>CHAPTER XXXIX</b></a><br> +CONSTRUCTION OF A PA<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XL"><b>CHAPTER XL</b></a><br> +A SHAM FIGHT<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XLI"><b>CHAPTER XLI</b></a><br> +AN EXCITING INCIDENT<br> +VISIT OF A GREAT TOHUNGA<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XLII"><b>CHAPTER XLII</b></a><br> +VICTORIOUS WARRIORS<br> +TREATMENT OF PRISONERS<br> +BAKED HEADS<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XLIII"><b>CHAPTER XLIII</b></a><br> +VISITS OF WHALERS<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XLIV"><b>CHAPTER XLIV</b></a><br> +SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XLV"><b>CHAPTER XLV</b></a><br> +DEATH OF HONGI<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XLVI"><b>CHAPTER XLVI</b></a><br> +A TRIBAL CONFLICT<br> +SHULITEA (KING GEORGE) KILLED<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XLVII"><b>CHAPTER XLVII</b></a><br> +EXCITEMENT AT KORORAREKA<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XLVIII"><b>CHAPTER XLVIII</b></a><br> +EARLE'S FAREWELL<br> +MISSIONARIES ALARMED<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XLIX"><b>CHAPTER XLIX</b></a><br> +JOURNEY TO HOKIANGA<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_L"><b>CHAPTER L</b></a><br> +EUROPEAN DEFENCES<br> +MR. HOBBS' MESSAGE OF PEACE<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_LI"><b>CHAPTER LI</b></a><br> +MAORI SOCIAL CUSTOMS<br> +EUROPEAN LIAISONS WITH MAORIS<br> +MAORI MARRIAGES<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_LII"><b>CHAPTER LII</b></a><br> +A MAORI TANGI<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_LIII"><b>CHAPTER LIII</b></a><br> +MAORI CHARACTERISTICS<br> +ORIGIN OF OUTRAGES<br> +FAMILY AFFECTION<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_LIV"><b>CHAPTER LIV</b></a><br> +TRADE OF HOKIANGA<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_LV"><b>CHAPTER LV</b></a><br> +A CREW MASSACRED<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_LVI"><b>CHAPTER LVI</b></a><br> +FAREWELL TO NEW ZEALAND<br> +MAORIS IN SYDNEY<br> +<br> + <a href="#APPENDIX_I"><b>APPENDIX I</b></a><br> +MASSACRE OF FURNEAUX'S BOAT'S CREW<br> +CANNIBALISM<br> +<br> + <a href="#APPENDIX_II"><b>APPENDIX II</b></a><br> +A TRIBAL FIGHT<br> + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a><h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> + +<a href="#image-1">A Maori War Speech (Frontispiece)</a><br> +<a href="#image-2">Patuone, a Hokianga Chief</a><br> +<a href="#image-3">Mission Station, Kerikeri</a><br> +<a href="#image-4">Scene of Boyd Massacre</a><br> +<a href="#image-5">Maori War Expedition</a><br> +<a href="#image-6">Maori Method of Tattooing</a><br> +<a href="#image-7">Specimens of Tattooing</a><br> +<a href="#image-8">Whalers at Bay of Islands</a><br> + +</center> +<!-- End Autogenerated TOC. --> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="INTRODUCTION"></a><h2>INTRODUCTION</h2> +<br> + +<p>The author of this account of New Zealand in the year 1827 was an artist +by profession. "A love of roving and adventure," he states, tempted him, +at an early age, to sea. In 1815 he procured a passage on board a +storeship bound for Sicily and Malta, where he had a brother stationed +who was a captain in the navy. He visited many parts of the +Mediterranean, accompanying Lord Exmouth's fleet in his brother's gunboat +on his Lordship's first expedition against the Barbary States. He +afterwards visited the ruins of Carthage and the remains of the ancient +city of Ptolomea, or Lepida, situated in ancient Libya. Returning to +Malta, he passed through Sicily, and ascended Mount Etna. In 1818 he left +England for the United States, and spent nearly two years in rambling +through that country. Thence he proceeded to Brazil and Chile, returning +to Rio de Janeiro, where he practised his art until the commencement of +1824. Having received letters of introduction to Lord Amherst, who had +left England to undertake the government of India, Mr. Earle left Rio for +the Cape of Good Hope, intending to take his passage thence to Calcutta. +On the voyage to the Cape the vessel by which he was a passenger touched +at Tristan d'Acunha, and was driven off that island in a gale while Mr. +Earle was ashore, leaving him stranded in that desolate land, where he +remained for six months, when he was rescued by a passing ship, the +"Admiral Cockburn," bound for Van Diemen's Land, whence he visited New +South Wales and New Zealand, returning again to Sydney. In pursuance of +his original resolution to visit India, he left Sydney in "The Rainbow," +touching at the Caroline Islands, Manilla, and Singapore. After spending +some time in Madras, where he executed many original drawings, which were +afterwards copied and exhibited in a panorama, he set out for England by +a French vessel, which was compelled by stress of weather to put into +Mauritius, where she was condemned. Mr. Earle ultimately reached England +in a vessel named the "Resource," but, being still animated by the desire +for travel, he accepted the situation of draughtsman on His Majesty's +ship "Beagle," commanded by Captain Fitzroy, which in the year 1831 left +on a voyage of discovery that has been made famous by the observations of +Charles Darwin, who accompanied the expedition in the capacity of +naturalist.</p> + +<p>The notes which furnished the materials for this book were made by Mr. +Earle during his first visit to New Zealand, in 1827. They are valuable +as setting forth the impressions formed by an educated man, who came into +the primitive community then existing at Hokianga and the Bay of Islands, +without being personally connected either with the trading community, +the missionaries, or the whalers. It should not be inferred from the +reflections Mr. Earle casts upon the missionaries that he was himself an +irreligious man, because the journal of his residence on Tristan d'Acunha +shows that, while living there, he read the whole service of the Church +of England to that little community every Sunday, and his diary in many +places exhibits a reverence for Divine things. It may, however, be said +in extenuation of the lack of hospitality on the part of the missionaries +of which he complains, that many of the early residents and European +visitors to New Zealand were of an undesirable class, and that they +exercised a demoralising influence upon the Maoris. It was not easy for +the missionaries to consort, upon terms of intimacy, with their +fellow-countrymen whose relations with the Natives were such as they must +strongly condemn. Earle's narrative is interesting because it conveys a +realistic description of the Maoris before their national customs and +habits had undergone any material change through association with white +settlers. In dealing with Maori names, Mr. Earle, having at that period +no standard of orthography to guide him, followed the example of Captain +Cook in spelling words phonetically. Except in the case of certain +well-known places the original spelling has been retained in the present +edition of his book.</p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_I"></a><h2>CHAPTER I</h2> + +<h3>VOYAGE FROM SYDNEY</h3> + +<p>Having made up my mind to visit the island of New Zealand, and having +persuaded my friend Mr. Shand to accompany me, we made an arrangement for +the passage with Captain Kent, of the brig Governor Macquarie, and, +bidding adieu to our friends at Sydney, in a few hours (on October 20th, +1827) we were wafted into the great Pacific Ocean.</p> + +<p>There were several other passengers on board, who were proceeding to New +Zealand to form a Wesleyan missionary establishment at Hokianga. Amongst +these were a Mr. and Mrs. Hobbs, who were most enthusiastic in the cause. +They had formerly belonged to the same mission at Whangaroa, when a war +which took place amongst the natives totally destroyed their +establishment; and, after enduring great varieties of suffering, they +escaped, but lost everything they possessed, except the clothes they had +on. We had a very fine wind for nine days, and on the 29th we saw a +gannet, a sure sign we were within a hundred miles of land, for these +birds are never seen at a greater distance from it. True to our +anticipations, towards the afternoon the water became discoloured, and at +midnight we saw the land.</p> + +<p>This interesting island, of which we now got sight, was first discovered +by that eminent and enterprising Dutch navigator, Tasman, subsequently to +the discovery of Van Diemen's Land. His voyage from Batavia in 1642, +undertaken by order of the then Governor-General of Dutch India, Anthony +Van Diemen, was one of the most important and successful ever undertaken, +for it was during this voyage that New Holland was discovered, of which +Van Diemen's Land was then supposed to form a part, the extensive island +of New Zealand being supposed to form another portion.<a name="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1"><sup>[1]</sup></a></p> + +<p>The slight intercourse of the discoverers with the natives had so +calamitous a termination, and the exaggerated accounts it was then a kind +of fashion to give of savages, stigmatised the New Zealanders with such a +character for treachery and cruelty, that their island was not visited +again for upwards of a century, when the immortal Cook drew aside the +veil of error and obscurity from this unexplored land, and rescued the +character of its inhabitants from the ignominy which its original +discoverers, the Dutch, had thrown upon them. This immense tract of land +was imagined by Tasman to form but one island, and he most unaptly gave +it the name of New Zealand, from its great resemblance (as was stated) to +his own country.<a name="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2"><sup>[2]</sup></a></p> + +<p>In 1770 Cook discovered a strait of easy access and safe navigation, +cutting the island nearly in half, thus making two islands of what had +before been imagined but one. This strait bears his name, and is often +traversed by vessels from New South Wales returning home by way of Cape +Horn.</p> + +<p>In 1827 His Majesty's ship Warsprite passed through this strait in +company with the Volage, twenty-eight guns, being the first English line +of battleship which had ever made the attempt. A few years since, Captain +Stewart, commanding a colonial vessel out of Port Jackson, discovered +another strait, which cut off the extreme southern point, making it a +separate island that bears his name, and now almost every year our +sealers and whalers are making additional and useful discoveries along +its coasts.</p> + +<p>These islands lie between lat. 34° and 48°S. and long. 166° and 180°E. +The opening of the land to which we were now opposite, and which was our +destined port, the accurate eye of Cook had observed, but did not attempt +the entrance; and it is only about ten years since, when the two store +ships, the Dromedary and Coromandel, loaded with spars on the coast, that +a small vessel attending on those ships first crossed the bar; but +although they took soundings and laid down buoys, the commanders of the +large vessels were afraid of attempting the entrance, which proved their +good sense, for their great draught of water would have rendered the +undertaking more hazardous than the risk was worth. Yet during my +residence in this country two large vessels crossed the bar, and +recrossed it heavily laden, without the slightest accident—one the +Harmony, of London, 400 tons burden; the other the Elizabeth, of Sydney, +of nearly equal tonnage—but in proof that it is not always safe, a few +months after this, two schooners of extremely light draught were lost, +though they were both commanded by men who perfectly well knew the +channels through the bar. It was a singular circumstance that both +vessels had been built in New Zealand; one, the Herald, a small and +beautiful craft, built by and belonging to the Church missionaries, the +crew of which escaped, but the disastrous circumstances attending the +wreck of the other, called the Enterprise, I shall relate in their proper +place.</p> + +<p>The morning of the 30th was foggy and unfavourable, but it suddenly +cleared up, and exhibited the entrance of Hokianga right before us, and a +light breeze came to our aid to carry us in. The entrance to this river +is very remarkable, and can never be mistaken by mariners. On the north +side, for many miles, are hills of sand, white, bleak, and barren, ending +abruptly at the entrance of the river, which is about a quarter of a mile +across. Where the south head rises abrupt, craggy, and black, the land +all round is covered with verdure; thus, at the first glimpse of these +heads from the sea, one is white, the other black.</p> + +<p>The only difficulty attending the entrance (and, indeed, the only thing +which prevents Hokianga from being one of the finest harbours in the +world) is the bar. This lies two miles from the mouth of the river, its +head enveloped in breakers and foam, bidding defiance and threatening +destruction to all large ships which may attempt the passage. However, +we fortunately slipped over its sandy sides, undamaged, in three-fathom +water.</p> + +<p>After crossing the bar, no other obstacle lay in our way, and, floating +gradually into a beautiful river, we soon lost sight of the sea, and were +sailing up a spacious sheet of water, which became considerably wider +after entering it; while majestic hills rose on each side, covered with +verdure to their very summits. Looking up the river, we beheld various +headlands stretching into the water, and gradually contracting in width, +till they became fainter and fainter in the distance, and all was lost in +the azure of the horizon. The excitement occasioned by contemplating +these beautiful scenes was soon interrupted by the hurried approach of +canoes, and the extraordinary noises made by the natives who were in +them.</p> + +<p>FOOTNOTES:</p> + +<a name="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1">[1]</a><div class="note"><p> The Dutch and Spanish had discovered N.E. Australia as early +as 1606, and the Dutch had on several occasions visited the N.W. and +South coasts of the Continent before the date of Tasman's voyage.</p></div> + +<a name="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2">[2]</a><div class="note"><p> The name given by Tasman was Staten Landt. The name New +Zealand was bestowed in 1643 by the States-General of the United +Provinces.</p></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_II"></a><h2>CHAPTER II</h2> + +<h3>RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES</h3> + +<p>As the arrival of a ship is always a profitable occurrence, great +exertions are made to be the first on board. There were several canoes +pulling towards us, and from them a number of muskets were fired, a +compliment we returned with our swivels; one of the canoes soon came +alongside, and an old chief came on board, who rubbed noses with Captain +Kent, whom he recognised as an old acquaintance; he then went round and +shook hands with all the strangers, after which he squatted himself down +upon the deck, seeming very much to enjoy the triumph of being the first +on board. But others very soon coming up with us, our decks were crowded +with them, some boarding us at the gangway, others climbing up the chains +and bows, and finding entrances where they could. All were in perfect +good humour, and pleasure beamed in all their countenances.</p> + +<p>I had heard a great deal respecting the splendid race of men I was going +to visit, and the few specimens I had occasionally met with at Sydney so +much pleased me, that I was extremely anxious to see a number of them +together, to judge whether (as a nation) they were finer in their +proportions than the English, or whether it was mere accident that +brought some of their tallest and finest proportioned men before me.</p> + +<p>I examined these savages, as they crowded round our decks, with the +critical eye of an artist; they were generally taller and larger men +than ourselves; those of middle height were broad-chested and muscular, +and their limbs as sinewy as though they had been occupied all their +lives in laborious employments. Their colour is lighter than that of the +American Indian, their features small and regular, their hair is in a +profusion of beautiful curls, whereas that of the Indian is straight and +lank. The disposition of the New Zealander appears to be full of fun and +gaiety, while the Indian is dull, shy, and suspicious.</p> + +<p>I have known Indians in America from the north to the south—the +miserable, idiotic Botecooda of Brazil, the fierce warrior of Canada, and +the gentle and civilised Peruvian, yet in their features and complexions +they are all much alike. I observed their statures altered with their +different latitudes; the Chilians and the Canadians being nearly the +same, in figure tall, thin, and active, their climate being nearly the +same, although at the two extremes of America; while those living between +the equinoxes are short, fat, and lazy. I am persuaded that these South +Sea Islanders, though so nearly of the same complexion, still are not of +the same race, laziness being the characteristic of the American Indian +from north to south, while the New Zealanders are laborious in the +extreme, as their astonishing and minute carvings prove. The moment the +Indian tasted intoxicating spirits his valour left him, he became an +idiot and a tool in the hands of the white man. Here they have the utmost +aversion to every kind of "wine or strong drink," and very often severely +take us to task for indulging in such an extraordinary and debasing +propensity, or, as they call it, "of making ourselves mad;" but both +nations are equally fond of tobacco.</p> + +<p>The first thing which struck me forcibly was, that each of these savages +was armed with a good musket, and most of them had also a cartouch box +buckled round their waists, filled with ball cartridges, and those who +had fired their pieces from the canoes carefully cleaned the pans, +covered the locks over with a piece of dry rag, and put them in a secure +place in their canoes. Every person who has read Captain Cook's account +of the natives of New Zealand would be astonished at the change which has +taken place since his time, when the firing of a single musket would have +terrified a whole village.</p> + +<p>As we sailed up the river very slowly, the throng of savages increased to +such a degree that we could scarcely move, and, to add to our confusion, +they gave us "a dance of welcome," standing on one spot, and stamping so +furiously that I really feared they would have stove in the decks, which +our lady passengers were obliged to leave, as when the dance began each +man proceeded to strip himself naked, a custom indispensable among +themselves.</p> + +<p>We came to an anchor off a native village called Pakanae, where two +chiefs of consequence came on board, who soon cleared our decks of a +considerable number. We paid great attention to these chiefs, admitting +them into the cabin, etc., and it had the effect of lessening the noise, +and bringing about some kind of order amongst those who still continued +on deck. The names of these chiefs were Moetara and Akaeigh, and they +were the heads of the village opposite to which we had anchored. They +were well known to our captain, who spoke their language. They were +accustomed to the society of Europeans, also to transact business with +them; and as they were flax, timber, and hog merchants, they and the +captain talked over the state of the markets during the evening. They +were clothed in mats, called Kaka-hoos. The ladies joined our party at +supper, and we spent a very cheerful time with our savage visitors, who +both behaved in as polite and respectful a manner as the best educated +gentlemen could have done; their pleasing manners so ingratiated them +into the good opinion of the ladies, that they all declared "they would +be really very handsome men if their faces were not tattooed."</p> + +<p>The next day we received a visit from Mr. and Mrs. Butler, English +people, who had taken up their residence here for the purpose of trading, +and we returned with them on shore, taking our female passengers with us, +and leaving them in charge of Mrs. Butler. I determined to stroll through +the village, which is, in fact, a collection of rude huts, huddled +together without system or regularity. Dock leaves and weeds of every +description were growing luxuriantly all round them, and in many places +actually overtopping the houses, few being more than four feet high, with +a doorway about two feet. Scarcely any of them were inhabited, as at this +season of the year the greater part of the population prefer living in +the open air to remaining in their small, smoky ovens of houses.</p> + +<p>I had not rambled far before I witnessed a scene which forcibly reminded +me of the savage country in which I then was, and the great alteration of +character and customs a few days' sail will make. The sight to me so +appalling was that of the remains of a human body which had been roasted, +and a number of hogs and dogs were snarling and feasting upon it! I was +more shocked than surprised, for I had been informed of the character of +the New Zealanders long before my arrival amongst them; still, the +coming suddenly and unexpectedly upon a sight like this completely +sickened me of rambling, at least for that day, and I hastened back to +Mr. Butler's, eager to inquire into the particulars of the horrid +catastrophe.</p> + +<p>That gentleman informed me that the night of the arrival of our ship, a +chief had set one of his kookies (or slaves) to watch a piece of ground +planted with the kumara, or sweet potato, in order to prevent the hogs +committing depredations upon it. The poor lad, delighted with the +appearance of our vessel, was more intent upon observing her come to an +anchor than upon guarding his master's property, and suffered the hogs to +ramble into the plantation, where they soon made dreadful havoc. In the +midst of this trespass and neglect of orders his master arrived. The +result was certain; he instantly killed the unfortunate boy with a blow +on the head from his stone hatchet, then ordered a fire to be made, and +the body to be dragged to it, where it was roasted and consumed.</p> + +<p>It was now time to return on board, and we walked down to the beach for +that purpose, but it was quite low water, and the boat was full two +hundred feet off. She lay at the end of a long, slimy, muddy flat, and +while we were debating how we should manage to get to her, the native +chiefs took up the females in their arms, as though they were children, +and, in spite of all their blushes and remonstrances, carried them to the +boat and placed them safely in it, each seeming to enjoy the task. They +then returned and gave us a passage, walking as easily with us upon their +backs as if we had been no heavier than so many muskets. We took care not +to shock the feelings of the females by letting them know the tragedy so +lately acted in the village, or horrify them by telling them that one of +their carriers was the murderer! It would have been difficult to have +made them believe that such a noble-looking and good-natured fellow had +so lately imbrued his hands in the blood of a fellow creature.</p> + +<p>We had now been lying here two days, and the curiosity of the people did +not diminish, nor were our visitors less numerous. Parties were hourly +coming up and down the river to pay their respects to our captain, and +the report of there being numerous passengers on board greatly increased +their desire to hold intercourse with us. They all appeared anxious to +make themselves useful, some chopping wood for our cook, others assisting +the steward, in order to get what might be left on the plates, others +brought small presents of fish; in fact, all availed themselves of any +excuse to get on board; yet, notwithstanding the crowd, and the confusion +attending their movements, there was scarcely any thieving amongst them. +They have seen the detestation that theft is held in by Europeans, and +the injury it does to trade, and have, in consequence, nearly left it +off. None but the meanest slaves will now practise it, and they do so at +the risk of their lives; for, if caught in the act, and the charge is +proved against them, their heads are cut off!</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_III"></a><h2>CHAPTER III</h2> + +<h3>A RAMBLE ASHORE</h3> + +<p>On November 3rd we visited Pakanae, a village lying round the base of a +large conical hill, about three hundred feet high, with a fortification +on the top, which gives it its name, pa signifying in their language a +fortified place. Behind it lies a swamp, which is covered at high water, +and which adds greatly to its security; for the unsettled and war-like +spirit of the natives renders it absolutely necessary that they always +should have a place of strength near at hand to retreat to, as they never +know how suddenly their enemies may make an attack upon them. To the +right of this swamp is a beautiful valley, in a very high state of +cultivation. At the time I stood viewing it from the summit of the hill, +I was charmed with the scene of industry and bustle it presented, all the +inhabitants of the village having gone forth to plant their potatoes, +kumaras, and Indian corn. In the rear, and forming a fine, bold +background, is an immense chain of high and rugged hills, covered to +their summits with thick forests, and forming, as it were, a natural +barrier and protection to this smiling and fruitful valley, while from +their wooded sides issue innumerable small streams of clear water, which, +meeting at the base, form beautiful rivulets, and after meandering +through the valley, and serving all the purposes of irrigation, they +empty themselves into the Hokianga river.</p> + +<p>Standing on the spot from which I have described the above prospect, I +felt fully convinced of the frugality and industry of these savages. The +regularity of their plantations, and the order with which they carry on +their various works, differ greatly from most of their brethren in the +South Seas, as here the chiefs and their families set the example of +labour; and when that is the case, none can refuse to toil. Round the +village of Pakanae, at one glance is to be seen above 200 acres of +cultivated land, and that not slightly turned up, but well worked and +cleared; and when the badness of their tools is considered, together with +their limited knowledge of agriculture, their persevering industry I look +upon as truly astonishing.</p> + +<p>The New Zealanders have established here a wise custom, which prevents a +great deal of waste and confusion, and generally preserves to the planter +a good crop, in return for the trouble of sowing; namely, as soon as the +ground is finished, and the seed sown, it is <i>tabooed,</i> that, is rendered +sacred, by men appointed for that service, and it is death to trample +over or disturb any part of this consecrated ground. The wisdom and +utility of this regulation must be obvious to every one. But, however +useful this taboo system is to the natives, it is a great inconvenience +to a stranger who is rambling over the country, for if he does not use +the greatest caution, and procure a guide, he may get himself into a +serious dilemma before his rambles be over, which had nearly been the +case with our party this day. We were ascending a hill, for the purpose +of inspecting a New Zealand fortification on the summit, when a little +boy joined our party, either out of curiosity, or in hopes of getting a +fish-hook from us—a thing the natives are continually asking for; but as +we had a man with us who spoke the language fluently, we did not much +regard the boy's guidance, though to us it speedily became of great +importance. We were taking a short cut, to make a quick ascent to the top +of the hill, when the little fellow uttered a cry of horror. Our +interpreter asked him what he meant, when he pointed his finger forward, +and told him to look, for the ground was tabooed. We did as he desired +us, but beheld nothing particular, till he showed us, in one of the +trees, among the branches, a large bunch of something, but we could not +make out what it was. This, he told us, was the body of a chief, then +undergoing the process of decomposition, previous to interment, which +process is witnessed by men appointed for that purpose, who alone are +permitted to approach the spot. The ground all round is tabooed, so that, +had it not been for the interference of our young guide, we should +certainly have been placed in a most distressing situation; and it is a +question if our ignorance of their customs would have been considered a +sufficient excuse for our offence.</p> + +<p>The top of this hill was level and square, and was capable of containing +several hundred warriors. It was cut into slopes all round, and fortified +by stockades in every direction, which rendered it impregnable. The +natives assured me its strength had been often tried. The famous warrior +Hongi had attacked it several times, but had always been defeated with +great loss. After inspecting this fortification, which excited our +admiration, we proceeded through the village at the bottom of the hill. +Nearly the whole of the inhabitants were out working in the fields. We +entered several of their habitations, and found all their property +exposed and unguarded. Even their muskets and powder, which they prize +above everything, were open to our inspection, so little idea of robbery +have they amongst themselves. But as there are many hogs and dogs roaming +at large through their villages, they are very careful to fence their +dwellings round with wicker work, to preserve them from the depredations +of these animals; and as the houses are extremely low, they have very +much the appearance of bird cages or rabbit hutches. Their storehouses +are generally placed upon poles, a few feet from the ground, and tabooed +or consecrated. Great taste and ingenuity are displayed in carving and +ornamenting these depositories. I made drawings from several of them, +which were entirely covered with carving; and some good attempts at +groups of figures, as large as life, plainly showed the dawning of the +art of sculpture amongst them. Many of the attempts of the New Zealanders +in that art are quite as good, if not better, than various specimens I +have seen of the first efforts of the early Egyptians.</p> + +<p>Painting and sculpture are both arts greatly admired by these rude +people. Every house of consequence is ornamented and embellished, and +their canoes have the most minute and elaborate workmanship bestowed upon +them.</p> + +<p>Their food is always eaten out of little baskets, rudely woven of green +flax; and as they generally leave some for their next meal, they hang +these baskets on sticks or props, till they are ready to eat again. Thus +a village presents a very singular appearance, as it is stuck full of +sticks, with various kinds of baskets hanging from them. This plan, +however, is the most rational that could be adopted, as none of their +eatables can be left on the ground, or they would become the prey of the +hogs and dogs.</p> + +<p>In the course of our long ramble we noticed many pretty little huts, some +having neat gardens all round them, planted with fruits and corn. One +house which we saw was built by a chief who had made several voyages to +Port Jackson, and it was really a very comfortable dwelling. It had a +high door, which we could enter without stooping, and in a separate room +was constructed a bed, after the pattern of one on ship-board. He had +likewise a large sea-chest in his house, the key of which (highly +polished) was hung round his neck as an ornament. In the course of our +walk we came to a spot on which a group of old people were sitting +sunning themselves, and they immediately all rose to welcome us. I +remarked one amongst them who seemed, from his silvery locks and feeble +limbs, to be very old. I asked him, among other questions, whether he +remembered Captain Cook. He said he did not, but well recollected Captain +Furneaux, and was one of the party which cut off and massacred his boat's +crew; and from other information which I received I believe his assertion +to have been correct.<a name="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3"><sup>[3]</sup></a></p> + +<p>FOOTNOTES:</p> + +<a name="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3">[3]</a><div class="note"><p> Captain Furneaux's account of this massacre is printed in +the Appendix.</p></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_IV"></a><h2>CHAPTER IV</h2> + +<h3>THE HOKIANGA RIVER EIGHTY YEARS AGO</h3> + +<p>As our missionary passengers had by this time fixed upon the spot where +they intended to establish their settlement, and it being several miles +up the river, we got under weigh to proceed thither. The captain's +agreement being to that effect, we proceeded with the first fair wind, +about twenty miles up the stream, which was as far as we could with +safety take the vessel. The shores on each side this noble river are +composed of hills gradually rising behind each other, most of them +covered with woods to the water's edge. Not a vestige of a habitation is +to be seen, and if it had not been for the occasional sight of a canoe, +we might have imagined the country to be totally uninhabited. Opposite a +small island, or, rather, sand-bank, the vessel grounded, and had to +remain there till the next tide floated her off. It was a curious and +interesting spot, being a native pa and depot, and was entirely covered +with storehouses for provisions and ammunition. The centre was so +contrived that all assailants might be cut off before they could effect a +landing; and we were all much gratified by the judgment and forethought +displayed in this little military work. The next morning we got off, but +could not proceed far, as the shoals were becoming so numerous as to +render the navigation dangerous. But here we beheld, with both surprise +and satisfaction, a most unexpected sight, namely, a snug little colony +of our own countrymen, comfortably settled and usefully employed in this +savage and unexplored country. Some enterprising merchants of Port +Jackson have established here a dockyard and a number of sawpits. Several +vessels have been laden with timber and spars; one vessel has been built, +launched, and sent to sea from this spot; and another of a hundred and +fifty tons burthen was then upon the stocks!</p> + +<p>On landing at this establishment at Te Horeke, or, as the Englishmen have +called it, "Deptford," I was greatly delighted with the appearance of +order, bustle, and industry it presented. Here were storehouses, +dwelling-houses, and various offices for the mechanics; and every +department seemed as well filled as it could have been in a civilised +country. To me the most interesting circumstance was to notice the great +delight of the natives, and the pleasure they seemed to take in observing +the progress of the various works. All were officious to "lend a hand," +and each seemed eager to be employed. This feeling corresponds with my +idea of the best method of civilising a savage. Nothing can more +completely show the importance of the useful arts than a dockyard. In it +are practised nearly all the mechanical trades; and these present to the +busy enquiring mind of a New Zealander a practical encyclopaedia of +knowledge. When he sees the combined exertions of the smith and carpenter +create so huge a fabric as a ship, his mind is filled with wonder and +delight; and when he witnesses the moulding of iron at the anvil, it +excites his astonishment and emulation.</p> + +<p>The people of the dockyard informed me that, although it was constantly +crowded with natives, scarcely anything had ever been stolen, and all the +chiefs in the neighbourhood took so great an interest in the work that +any annoyance offered to those employed would immediately be revenged as +a personal affront.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_V"></a><h2>CHAPTER V</h2> + +<h3>JOURNEY OVERLAND TO BAY OF ISLANDS</h3> + +<p>Here we left the brig to unload her cargo; my friend Shand and myself +having determined to proceed overland to the Bay of Islands. An +intelligent chief, hearing of our intention, offered to accompany us +himself, and lent us two of his kookies to carry our baggage. We accepted +the chieftain's offer, and several other natives joined the party to bear +us company.</p> + +<p>November 7.—We all embarked in a canoe, in order to reach the head of +the river before we began our pedestrian tour; and, after paddling about +eight or nine miles further up, where the river became exceedingly +narrow, we came to another English settlement. This consisted of a party +of men who had come out in the Rosanna, the vessel employed by the New +Zealand Company. When all ideas of settling were totally abandoned by the +officers sent out for that purpose, these men chose rather to remain by +themselves than to return home; and we found them busily employed in +cutting timber, sawing planks, and making oars for the Sydney market. How +far they may prove successful, time only can develop; but as these +enterprising men had only their own industry to assist them, it could not +be expected that their establishment could bear a comparison with the one +at Te Horeke, which is supported by several of the most wealthy +merchants of New South Wales.</p> + +<p>As the river became narrower, the habitations of the natives were more +numerous. The chief of this district (whose name is Patuone) has a +splendid village very near the carpenters' establishment we have just +described. He had taken these industrious men under his especial +protection, and seemed very proud of having a settlement of that kind in +his territories, as it gave him power and consequence among all the +neighbouring chiefs, from the trade he carried on by means of their +exertions.</p> + +<p>Patuone had likewise induced the Wesleyan missionaries to settle upon his +land, about a mile below; so that the head of this river assumed quite +the appearance of a civilised colony.</p> + +<p>Our party now disembarked. We landed in a dense forest, which reached to +the water's edge; and our guides and slaves began to divide the loads +each was to carry on his back. Several joined us from the two English +stations on the river, and we then amounted to a very large party; all in +high spirits, and anxious to proceed on our journey. When our natives had +distributed the luggage, they loaded themselves, which they did with both +skill and quickness; for a New Zealander is never at a loss for cords or +ropes. Their plan is to gather a few handfuls of flax, which they soon +twist into a very good substitute: with this material they formed slings, +with which they dexterously fastened our moveables on their backs, and +set off at a good trot, calling out to us to follow them.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_VI"></a><h2>CHAPTER VI</h2> + +<h3>MEETING WITH THE CHIEF PATUONE</h3> + +<p>We travelled through a wood so thick that the light of heaven could not +penetrate the trees that composed it. They were so large and so close +together that in many places we had some difficulty to squeeze ourselves +through them. To add to our perplexities, innumerable streams intersected +this forest, which always brought us Europeans to a complete standstill. +The only bridges which the natives ever think of making are formed by +cutting down a tree, and letting it fall across; and over these our +bare-legged attendants, loaded as they were, scrambled with all the +agility of cats or monkeys; but it was not so with us: for several times +they seated one of us on the top of their load, and carried him over. The +chief, who accompanied us, made it his particular business to see me safe +through every difficulty, and many times he carried me himself over such +places as I dared scarcely venture to look down upon.</p> + +<p>In the midst of this wood we met the chief of this district, Patuone, +who, together with all his family, were employed in planting a small, +cleared patch of land. He appeared highly delighted at beholding +strangers; and all his wives came from their occupations to welcome us. +He told us that, a very few miles farther on, we should come to a village +belonging to him, where his eldest son was residing, and that we must +there pass the night.</p> + +<a name="image-2"><!-- Image 2 --></a> +<center> +<img src="img/img2.jpg" width="600" height="707" alt="Patuone, a Notable Hokianga Chief." title="Patuone, a Notable Hokianga Chief."> +</center> +<h5>Patuone, a Notable Hokianga Chief.</h5> + +<p>We thanked him for the invitation, rubbed noses with him (their token of +friendship), and parted.</p> + +<p>Soon after parting with Patuone, we fell in with a most beautiful bull, +cow, and calf. I was amazed at seeing such fine animals in this country; +but my companions soon cleared up the mystery by informing me that they +were gifts from the missionaries, who had orders from Home to distribute +these useful animals amongst such chiefs as they thought would take care +of them: a wise and beneficial measure. These animals were tabooed, +consequently they could ramble wherever they found food most to their +liking. About dusk we arrived at the village Patuone had described to us. +We were most happy to see it, as we were heartily tired, and dripping wet +from a recent and heavy shower.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_VII"></a><h2>CHAPTER VII</h2> + +<h3>A MAORI VILLAGE</h3> + +<p>The village was situated on the side of a small, picturesque stream, one +of the branches of the Hokianga, but continued droughts had at this time +reduced it to a trifling brook. From its lofty banks, and the large trees +lying athwart it, we conjectured that during heavy rains it must be a +mighty flood. A long straggling collection of huts composed the village: +a great deal of land in its vicinity was cleared and planted, which +doubtless was the ostensible object of Patuone's people being here. As +the village lay upon the opposite shore from that on which we arrived, we +sat some time under the shelter of a large tree, to contemplate its +appearance, and to give time to arrange our party for passing the stream, +and also for my making a sketch. The red glare of the setting sun, just +touching the top of every object, beautifully illuminated the landscape; +and its rays bursting through the black woods in the background, gave the +woods an appearance of being on fire; while a beautiful rainbow, thrown +across the sky, tinged the scene with a fairy-land effect.</p> + +<p>As soon as they perceived us from the opposite shore, a loud shout of +welcome was raised, and all the inhabitants came out to meet us. They +carried us over the stream, conducted us to their huts, and then sat down +to gaze at and admire us.</p> + +<p>As we were very hungry after our fatiguing walk, we soon unpacked our +baggage, and in so doing made an unavoidable display of many valuable and +glittering objects, which roused the attention of our savage spectators, +and caused them, on the unfolding of every fresh object, to make loud and +long exclamations of wonder and amazement. As I was then "a stranger in +their land," and unaccustomed to their peculiarities, I felt a little +alarmed at their shouts; but, on a longer acquaintance with them, I found +my fears had been groundless.</p> + +<p>Here we saw the son of Patuone, accompanied by thirty or forty young +savages, sitting or lying all round us. All were exceedingly handsome, +notwithstanding the wildness of their appearance and the ferocity of +their looks. Let the reader picture to himself this savage group, +handling everything they saw, each one armed with a musket, loaded with +ball, a cartouch-box buckled round his waist, and a stone patoo-patoo, or +hatchet, in his hand, while human bones were hung round each neck by way +of ornament; let the scene and situation be taken into consideration, and +he will acknowledge it was calculated to make the young traveller wish +himself safe at home; but, when I suspected, I wronged them; for after +admiring everything we had brought with us (more especially our +fowling-pieces, which were very beautiful ones), they begged a little +tobacco, then retired to a distance from the hut which had been prepared +for our reception, and left us to take our supper uninterrupted; after +which they placed all our baggage in the hut, that we might be assured of +its safety.</p> + +<p>It proved a rainy, miserable night; and we were a large party, crowded +into a small, smoky hut, with a fire lighted in the middle; as, after +our supper, the natives, in order to have as much of our company as +possible, crowded it till it was literally crammed. However annoying this +might be, still I was recompensed by the novelty and picturesque +appearance of the scene. Salvator Rosa could not have conceived a finer +study of the horrible. A dozen men, of the largest and most athletic +forms, their cakahoos (or mat-dresses) laid aside, and their huge limbs +exposed to the red glare of the fire; their faces rendered hideous by +being tattooed all over, showing by the firelight quite a bright blue; +their eyes, which are remarkable for their fierce expression, all fixed +upon us, but with a look of good temper, co-mingled with intense +curiosity. All my fears had by this time subsided, and, being master of +myself, I had leisure to study and enjoy the scene; we smoked a social +pipe with them (for they are all immoderately fond of tobacco), and I +then stretched myself down to sleep amidst all their chattering and +smoke.</p> + +<p>But all my attempts at slumber were fruitless. I underwent a simultaneous +attack of vermin of all descriptions; fleas, mosquitoes, and sand-flies, +which, beside their depredations on my person, made such a buzzing noise, +that even the chattering of the natives could not drown it, or the smoke +from the fire or pipes drive them away.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_VIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER VIII</h2> + +<h3>TOILSOME JOURNEY THROUGH THE FOREST</h3> + +<p>Next morning, at daybreak, we took leave of our hosts, and proceeded on +our journey; we had eight miles more of this thick forest to scramble +through, and this part we found considerably worse than that we had +traversed yesterday. The roots of trees covered the path in all +directions, rendering it necessary to watch every step we took, in order +to prevent being thrown down; the supple-jacks, suspended and twining +from tree to tree, making in many places a complete net-work; and while +we were toiling with the greatest difficulty through this miserable road, +our natives were jogging on as comfortably as possible: use had so +completely accustomed them to it, that they sprung over the roots, and +dived under the supple-jacks and branches, with perfect ease, while we +were panting after them in vain. The whole way was mountainous. The +climbing up, and then descending, was truly frightful; not a gleam of sky +was to be seen, all was a mass of gigantic trees, straight and lofty, +their wide spreading branches mingling overhead, and producing throughout +the forest an endless darkness and unbroken gloom.</p> + +<p>After three or four hours of laborious struggling, we emerged from the +wood, and found ourselves upon an extensive plain, which, as far as the +eye could reach, appeared covered with fern. A small path lay before us, +and this was our road. The New Zealanders always travel on foot, one +after the other, or in Indian file. Their pathways are not more than a +foot wide, which to a European is most painful; but as the natives +invariably walk with the feet turned in, or pigeon-toed, they feel no +inconvenience from the narrowness. When a traveller is once on the path, +it is impossible for him to go astray. No other animal, except man, ever +traverses this country, and <i>his</i> track cannot be mistaken, since none +ever deviate from the beaten footpath, which was in consequence, in some +places (where the soil was light), worn so deep as to resemble a gutter +more than a road. We proceeded for many miles in this unsocial manner; +unsocial, for it precludes all conversation. Our natives occasionally +gave us a song, or, rather, dirge, in which they all joined chorus. +Having at length attained the summit of a hill, we beheld the Bay of +Islands, stretching out in the distance; and at sunset we arrived at the +Kerikeri river, where there is a Church-missionary settlement.</p> + +<a name="image-3"><!-- Image 3 --></a> +<center> +<img src="img/img3.jpg" width="600" height="327" alt="Mission Station, Kerikeri." title="Mission Station, Kerikeri."> +</center> + +<h5>Mission Station, Kerikeri.</h5> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_IX"></a><h2>CHAPTER IX</h2> + +<h3>THE MISSIONARY SETTLEMENT AT KERIKERI</h3> + +<p>We had travelled all day through a country in which every object we saw +was of a character that reminded us forcibly of the savage community we +were with. Occasionally we met groups of naked men, trotting along under +immense loads, and screaming their barbarous songs of recognition; +sometimes we beheld an uncouthly carved figure, daubed over with red +ochre, and fixed in the ground, to give notice that one side of the road +was tabooed. An extraordinary contrast was now presented to our view, for +we came suddenly in front of a complete little English village. Wreaths +of white smoke were rising from the chimneys, of neat weather-boarded +houses. The glazed windows reflected the brilliant glow from the rays of +the setting sun, while herds of fat cattle were winding down the hills, +lowing as they leisurely bent their steps toward the farm-yard. It is +impossible for me to describe what I felt on contemplating a scene so +similar to those I had left behind me.</p> + +<p>According to the custom of this country, we fired our muskets, to warn +the inhabitants of the settlement of our approach. We arranged our +dresses in the best order we could, and proceeded towards the village. As +the report of our guns had been heard, groups of nondescripts came +running out to meet us. I could scarcely tell to what order of beings +they belonged; but on their near approach, I found them to be the New +Zealand youths, who were settled with the missionaries. They were habited +in the most uncouth dresses imaginable. These pious men, certainly, have +no taste for the picturesque; they had obscured the finest human forms +under a seaman's huge clothing. Boys not more than fifteen wore jackets +reaching to their knees, and buttoned up to the throat with great black +horn buttons, a coarse checked shirt, the collar of which spread half-way +over their face, their luxuriant, beautiful hair was cut close off, and +each head was crammed into a close Scotch bonnet!</p> + +<p>These half-converted, or, rather, half-<i>covered</i>, youths, after rubbing +noses, and chattering with our guides, conducted us to the dwellings of +their masters. As I had a letter of introduction from one of their own +body, I felt not the slightest doubt of a kind reception; so we proceeded +with confidence. We were ushered into a house, all cleanliness and +comfort, all order, silence, and unsociability. After presenting my +letter to a grave-looking personage, it had to undergo a private +inspection in an adjoining room, and the result was an invitation "to +stay and take a cup of tea!" All that an abundant farm and excellent +grocer in England could supply were soon before us. Each person of the +mission, as he appeared during our repast, was called aside, and I could +hear my own letter read and discussed by them. I could not help thinking +(within myself) whether this was a way to receive a countryman at the +Antipodes! No smile beamed upon their countenance; there were no +inquiries after news; in short, there was no touch of human sympathy, +such as we "of the world" feel at receiving an Englishman under our roof +in such a savage country as this!</p> + +<p>The chubby children who peeped at us from all corners, and the very +hearty appearance of their parents, plainly evidenced that theirs was an +excellent and thriving trade. We had a cold invitation to stay all night; +but this the number of our party entirely precluded; so they lent us +their boat to convey us to the Bay of Islands, a distance of about +twenty-five miles.</p> + +<p>As the night proved dark and stormy, and as our boat was crowded with +natives, our passage down the Kerikeri river became both disagreeable and +dangerous. The river being filled with rocks, some under, and others just +above the water, we were obliged to keep a good look-out. After +experiencing many alarms, we arrived safely at Kororareka beach about +midnight, where an Englishman of the name of Johnstone gave us a shelter +in his hut.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_X"></a><h2>CHAPTER X</h2> + +<h3>THE BAY OF ISLANDS</h3> + +<p>In the morning we beheld two vessels at anchor in the harbour. The +Indian, whaler, of London, and the East India Company's ship Research; +which latter ship had been cruising in search of the wreck of the vessels +under the command of La Perouse, and had completely elucidated the +circumstances relating to that event. The Bay of Islands is surrounded by +lofty and picturesque hills, and is secured from all winds. It is full of +lovely coves, and a safe anchorage is to be found nearly all over it; +added to this, a number of navigable rivers are for ever emptying +themselves into the Bay, which is spotted with innumerable romantic +islands all covered with perpetual verdure.</p> + +<p>It is with peculiar interest that we look upon the spot where the +illustrious Cook cast anchor after his discovery of this Bay. Some +unhappy quarrels with the natives occasioned much blood to be shed on +both sides, and for a long time caused this island to be looked upon with +horror, and avoided by all Europeans. It was the courage and enterprise +of the crews of our South Sea Whalers who exhibited these interesting +islanders in their true character, and proved to the world that it was +quite as safe to anchor in the Bay of Islands as in the harbour of Port +Jackson.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XI"></a><h2>CHAPTER XI</h2> + +<h3>THE MASSACRE OF THE "BOYD"</h3> + +<p>Since the time of Cook, and other circumnavigators of that period, the +character of these people has undergone a thorough change. Then it was +necessary when a ship anchored, that the boarding nettings should be up, +and all the arms ready for immediate use. The principal object the chiefs +had in view seemed to be to lull the commanders into a fatal security, +then to rush upon them, seize their vessel, and murder all the crew! Too +often had they succeeded, and as often have they paid most dearly for +their treachery and cruelty. In the case of the ship Boyd, though they +attained their object, they were as completely punished for their +perfidy. From their ignorance of the nature of powder, and the use of a +magazine, they blew up the ship, and vast numbers of the natives were +destroyed. Besides this calamity, they brought down upon themselves the +vengeance of every vessel that visited these shores for a long period +afterwards. As the circumstances may not be generally known, Mr. Berry's +letter, relating the particulars of that melancholy, yet interesting +event, is here inserted:—</p> + +<span style="margin-left: 16.5em;">"Ship, City of Edinburgh,</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 20em;">"Lima, Oct. 20, 1810.</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Sir,—</span><br> + +<div class="blkquot"><p>I am very sorry to have the painful task of introducing myself to + you, with an account of the loss of your ship Boyd, Captain + Thompson.</p> + +<p> Towards the end of last year I was employed in the Bay of + Islands, New Zealand, in procuring a cargo of spars for the Cape + of Good Hope. About the middle of December the natives brought me + an account of a ship's being taken at Whangaroa, a harbour about + fifty miles to the N.W. At first we were disposed to doubt the + truth of this report, but it every day became more probable, from + the variety of circumstances they informed us of; and which were + so connected as appeared impossible for them to invent. + Accordingly, about the end of the month, when we had finished our + cargo, although it was a business of some danger, I determined to + go round.</p> + +<p> "I set out with three armed boats: we experienced very bad + weather, and after a narrow escape were glad to return to the + ship. As we arrived in a most miserable condition, I had then + relinquished all idea of the enterprise; but having recruited my + strength and spirits, I was shocked at the idea of leaving any of + my countrymen in the hands of savages, and determined to make a + second attempt. We had this time better weather, and reached the + harbour without any difficulty. Whangaroa is formed as + follows:—First, a large outer bay, with an island at its + entrance; in the bottom of this bay is seen a narrow opening, + which appears terminated at the distance of a quarter of a mile; + but, upon entering it, it is seen to expand into two large + basins, at least as secure as any of the docks on the banks of + the Thames, and capable of containing (I think) the whole British + navy. We found the wreck of the Boyd in shoal water, at the top + of the harbour, a most melancholy picture of wanton mischief. The + natives had cut her cables, and towed her up the harbour till she + had grounded, and then set her on fire, and burnt her to the + water's edge. In her hold were seen the remains of her + cargo—coals, salted seal skins, and planks. Her guns, iron, + standards, etc., were lying on the top, having fallen in when her + decks were consumed.</p> + +<p> "The cargo must have been very valuable; but it appears that the + captain, anxious to make a better voyage, had come to that port + for the purpose of filling up with spars for the Cape of Good + Hope.</p> + +<p> "Not to tire you with the minutia of the business, I recovered + from the natives a woman, two children, and a boy of the name of + Davies, one of your apprentices, who were the only survivors. I + found also the accompanying papers, which, I hope, may prove of + service to you. I did all this by gentle measures, and you will + admit that bloodshed and revenge would have answered no good + purpose. The ship was taken the third morning after her arrival. + The captain had been rather too hasty in resenting some slight + theft. Early in the morning the ship was surrounded by a great + number of canoes, and many natives gradually insinuated + themselves on board. Tippahee, a chief of the Bay of Islands, and + who had been twice at Port Jackson, also arrived; he went into + the cabin, and, after paying his respects to the captain, begged + a little bread for his men; but the captain received him rather + slightingly, and desired him to go away, and not trouble him, as + he was busy.</p> + +<p> "The proud old savage (who had been a constant guest at the + Governor's table at Port Jackson) was highly offended at this + treatment, immediately left the cabin, and, after stamping a few + minutes on the deck, went into his canoe. After breakfast the + captain went on shore with four hands, and no other arms but his + fowling-piece. From the account of the savages, as soon as he + landed they rushed upon him; he had only time to fire his piece, + and it killed a child. As soon as the captain left the ship, + Tippahee (who remained alongside in his canoe) came again on + board. A number of sailors were repairing sails upon the quarter + deck, and the remainder were carelessly dispersed about, and + fifty of the natives were sitting on the deck. In a moment they + all started up, and each knocked his man on the head: a few ran + wounded below, and four or five escaped up the rigging, and in a + few seconds the savages had complete possession of the ship. The + boy Davies escaped into the hold, where he lay concealed for + several days, till they were fairly glutted with human blood, + when they spared his life. The woman says she was discovered by + an old savage, and that she moved him by her tears and embraces; + that he (being a subordinate chief) carried her to Tippahee, who + allowed him to spare her life. She says, that at this time the + deck was covered with human bodies, which they were employed in + cutting up; after which they exhibited a most horrid dance and + song in honour of their victory, and concluded by a hymn of + gratitude to their god.</p> + +<p> "Tippahee now took the speaking trumpet, and hailing the poor + wretches at the mast-head, told them that he was now captain, + and that they must in future obey his commands. He then ordered + them to unbend the sails, they readily complied; but when he + ordered them to come down they hesitated, but he enforced prompt + obedience by threatening to cut away the masts. When they came + down he received them with much civility, and told them he would + take care of them; he immediately ordered them into a canoe, and + sent them on shore. A few minutes after this the woman went on + shore with her deliverer. The first object that struck her view + was the dead bodies of these men, lying naked on the beach. As + soon as she landed a number of men started up, and marched + towards her with their patoo-patoos. A number of women ran + screaming betwixt them, covered her with their clothes, and by + tears and entreaties saved her life.</p> + +<p> "The horrid feasting on human flesh which followed would be too + shocking for description. The second mate begged his life at the + time of the general massacre; they spared him for a fortnight, + and then killed and eat him. I think if the captain had received + Tippahee with a little more civility, that he would have informed + him of his danger, and saved the ship; but that from being + treated in the manner I have mentioned, he entered into the plot + along with the others.</p> + +<p> "I assure you it has been a most unpleasant thing for me to write + about, and I could only have been induced to do it from a sense + of duty, and a desire to give you all the information in my + power, which I suppose may be of some use.</p></div> + +<span style="margin-left: 6em;">"I am, Sir,</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 10em;">"Your obedient humble servant,</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 19em;">"ALEXANDER BERRY."</span><br> + +<p>Considering Mr. Berry's limited acquaintance with these islanders, and +the horror of the scene before him, his is a good and an impartial +account; but facts which have been obtained subsequently have exonerated +the natives to a certain extent. By repeated conversations I have held +with several chiefs who were engaged in this dreadful affair, and from +information I procured at Sydney, I have no doubt but that the Captain +himself was the most in fault.</p> + +<a name="image-4"><!-- Image 4 --></a> +<center> +<img src="img/img4.jpg" width="600" height="359" alt="Whangaroa, Scene of the "Boyd" Massacre." title=" Whangaroa, Scene of the "Boyd" Massacre."> +</center> + +<h5>Whangaroa, Scene of the "Boyd" Massacre.</h5> + +<p>He was commissioned by the Government of New South Wales to land a native +chief named Philip at New Zealand, whom he subjected to a cruel and +impolitic punishment. This man, smarting from his stripes, and burning +with a desire to revenge his dishonourable treatment, excited all his +friends to the commission of that bloody massacre.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XII</h2> + +<h3>THE FIRST SETTLEMENT AT KORORAREKA</h3> + +<p>The tragic fate of the Boyd's crew is now fast sinking into oblivion; +and, like the islanders of Hawaii, after the murder of Cook, they seem to +wish to obliterate the remembrance of their disgraceful conduct by a kind +and friendly intercourse with our nation. The severe chastisement which +they have always received from us after a treacherous action, has proved +to them how little they gain by so debasing a line of conduct; and as +they are most anxious to possess many of our productions, they seem to +have come to a resolution to abandon their former system; which, if they +may not be sensible of the injustice of, they see is destructive to their +own interests; and now every chief is as solicitous for the safety of a +European vessel as he would have been formerly for its destruction.</p> + +<p>They have not only lost a portion of their ferocity, but also much of +their native simplicity of character, which, in all parts of the world, +is so highly interesting a study for the traveller. Their constant +intercourse with whalers, who are generally low, unpolished men, leaves +behind it a tinge of vulgarity, of which the native women retain the +largest portion. In many instances, they quite spoil their good looks, by +half adopting the European costume. Those who are living in the +retirement of their own villages have a natural ease and elegance of +manner, which they soon lose after their introduction to our rough +sailors. I have seen a party of very handsome girls, just landing from +one of the whalers, their beautiful forms hid under old greasy red or +checked shirts, generally put on with the hind parts before. In some +cases the sailors, knowing their taste for finery, bring out with them, +from London, old tawdry gowns, and fierce coloured ribands. And thus +equipped, they come on shore the most grotesque objects imaginable, each +highly delighted with her gaudy habiliments.</p> + +<p>Kororareka beach, where we took up our residence, seemed the general +place of rendezvous for all Europeans whom chance might bring into this +bay. At this time there were two large vessels lying at anchor within a +quarter of a mile of the shore, and I was informed there were sometimes +as many as twelve or thirteen.</p> + +<p>The spot is a most delightful one, being about three-quarters of a mile +in extent, sheltered by two picturesque promontories, and possessing a +fine circular, firm, sandy beach, on which there is seldom much surf, so +that boats can at all times land and haul up. Scattered amongst the +rushes and small bushes is seen a New Zealand village, which at first +landing is scarcely perceptible, the huts being so low. Some of them are +of English design, though of native workmanship. These are generally the +dwellings of some Europeans, who are of so doubtful a character that it +would be difficult to guess to what order of society they belonged +previous to their being transplanted amongst these savages.</p> + +<p>I found a respectable body of Scotch mechanics settled here, who came out +in the New Zealand Company's ship Rosanna, and who determined to remain +at Kororareka. Their persevering industry as yet has been crowned with +success, and they seem well pleased with the prospects before them.</p> + +<p>Here, these hardy sons of Britain are employed in both carrying on and +instructing the wondering savage in various branches of useful art. Here +the smith has erected his forge, and his sooty mansion is crowded by +curious natives, who voluntarily perform the hardest and most dirty work, +and consider themselves fully recompensed by a sight of his mysterious +labours, every portion of which fills them with astonishment. Here is +heard daily the sound of the sawpit, while piles of neat white planks +appear arranged on the beach. These laborious and useful Scotchmen +interfere with no one, and pursue successfully their industrious career, +without either requiring or receiving any assistance from Home.</p> + +<p>But there is another class of Europeans here, who are both useless and +dangerous, and these lower the character of the white people in the +estimation of the natives. These men are called "Beach Rangers," most of +whom have deserted from, or have been turned out of whalers for crimes, +for which, had they been taken Home and tried, they would have been +hanged; some few among them, having been too lazy to finish the voyage +they had begun, had deserted from their ships, and were then leading a +mean and miserable life amongst the natives.</p> + +<p>There is still a third class of our countrymen to be met with here, whose +downcast and sneaking looks proclaim them to be runaway convicts from New +South Wales. These unhappy men are treated with derision and contempt by +all classes; and the New Zealanders, being perfectly aware of their state +of degradation, refuse all intercourse with them. They are idle, +unprincipled, and vicious in the extreme, and are much feared in the Bay +of Islands; for when by any means they obtain liquor, they prove +themselves most dangerous neighbours.</p> + +<p>My friend Shand and myself were most comfortably situated. An intimate +friend of mine (Captain Duke, of the whaler The Sisters) had, in +consequence of ill-health, taken up his residence on shore while his +vessel completed her cruise. In his hut we found comfort and safety; and +from his information and advice we were enabled to avoid the advances of +all whom his experience had taught him were to be shunned.</p> + +<p>On terms of the closest intimacy, and with his hut adjoining that of my +friend Captain Duke, lived Shulitea<a name="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4"><sup>[4]</sup></a> (or King George, as he styled +himself), a chief of great power, who controlled the whole of the +district where we were. We all felt grateful to him for his +manifestations of friendship, and at the same time were conscious of +enjoying a greater degree of security by his proximity. He was the first +chief who offered protection to "the white people," and he has never been +known to have broken his engagement. An unexpected and remarkable +instance of his adherence to their interests, in spite of temptation, +took place a few years since, which I deem worthy of relation here.</p> + +<p>The ship Brompton, in endeavouring to work out of the bay, by some +accident got on shore, and finally became a complete wreck. This fine +vessel, with a valuable cargo on board, lay helpless on the beach, and +the crew and passengers expected nothing less than plunder and +destruction. The natives from the interior, hearing of the circumstance, +hastened down in vast numbers to participate in the general pillage. But +King George summoned all his warriors to his aid, and with this party +placed himself between the wreck and those who came to plunder it. I was +informed by several who were present at the time, that, after declaring +that "not an article should be taken till himself and all his party were +destroyed," he advanced, and thus explained his reasons for protecting +the strangers and their property:—</p> + +<p>"You" (said King George) "come from the interior; all of you think only +of what you can get, without considering the consequences, which, indeed, +are of little import to you, living, as you do, out of reach of the +reproaches and vengeance of the white men. But look how differently I am +situated. I live on the beach; this Bay is my residence; I invite the +white men to come and trade here under the promise of my protection; they +come; several years of profitable trading have passed between us. King +George, they say, is a good man; now an accident has befallen one of +their ships in my territory, what must King George do? Why, he <i>must</i> +assist them; which he <i>will</i> do, and defend them against everyone who +shall attempt to injure them." In consequence of this speech, and his +exertions, not a thing was taken from the wreck by the savages who had +collected for that purpose.</p> + +<p>FOOTNOTES:</p> + +<a name="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4">[4]</a><div class="note"><p> The chief referred to by Mr. Earle as Shulitea, or King +George, was a noted Bay of Islands chief named Whareumu. He was killed in +a fight with the Hokianga tribes, in March, 1828. (See appendix.)</p></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XIII</h2> + +<h3>MAORI NON-PROGRESSIVENESS</h3> + +<p>This anecdote proves that King George and his people possessed feelings +of honour and generosity, which, if properly cultivated, might lead to +the most happy results. From the length of time these people have been +known to the Europeans, it might naturally be expected that great changes +would have taken place in their habits, manners, arts, and manufactures; +but this is not the case. Their huts are of the same diminutive +proportions as described by Captain Cook; their clothing and mats, their +canoes and paddles, are precisely the same as when that navigator +described them. When they can obtain English tools, they use them in +preference to their own; still their work is not better done. The only +material change that has taken place is in their mode of warfare.</p> + +<p>The moment the New Zealanders became acquainted with the nature of +firearms, their minds were directed but to one point, namely, to become +possessed of them. After many ingenious and treacherous attempts to +obtain these oft-coveted treasures, and which, for the most part, ended +in their defeat, they had recourse to industry, and determined to create +commodities which they might fairly barter for these envied muskets. +Potatoes were planted, hogs were reared, and flax prepared, not for their +own use or comfort, but to exchange with the Europeans for firearms. +Their plans succeeded; and they have now fairly possessed themselves of +those weapons, which at first made us so formidable in their eyes; and as +they are in constant want of fresh supplies of ammunition, I feel +convinced it will always be their wish to be on friendly terms with us, +for the purpose of procuring these desirable stores. I have not heard of +a single instance in which they have turned these arms against us, though +they are often grossly insulted.</p> + +<p>In their combats with each other, firearms are used with dreadful effect. +The whole soul of a New Zealander seems absorbed in the thoughts of war; +every action of his life is influenced by it; and to possess weapons +which give him such a decided superiority over those who have only their +native implements of offence, he will sacrifice everything. The value +attached by them to muskets, and their ceaseless desire to possess them, +will prove a sufficient security to foreigners who enter their harbours, +or remain on their coasts; as I know, from experience, that the New +Zealanders will rather put up with injuries than run the risk of +offending those who manufacture and barter with them such inestimable +commodities.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XIV"></a><h2>CHAPTER XIV</h2> + +<h3>A MISSION SETTLEMENT</h3> + +<p>A few days after my arrival in the Bay, I crossed to the opposite side, +to visit the Church missionary settlement, and to deliver a letter of +introduction I had to one of the members. Here, on a beautiful bank, with +a delightful beach in front, and the entrance of the bay open to them, +the clear and blue expanse of water speckled over with fertile islands, +reside these comfortable teachers of the Gospel. The name they have given +this spot is "Marsden Vale." They very soon gave us to understand they +did not wish for our acquaintance, and their coldness and inhospitality +(I must acknowledge) created in my mind a thorough dislike to them. The +object of the mission, as it was first planned, might have been attained, +and might have proved highly beneficial to the New Zealanders; but as it +is now conducted, no good result can be expected from it. Any man of +common sense must agree with me, that a savage can receive but little +benefit from having the abstruse points of the Gospel preached to him, if +his mind is not prepared to receive them. This is the plan adopted here; +and nothing will convince these enthusiasts that it is wrong, or induce +them to change it for one more agreeable to the dictates of reason.</p> + +<p>Upon inquiring who and what these men were, I found that the greater part +of them were hardy mechanics (not well-educated clergymen), whom the +benevolent and well-intentioned people of England had sent out in order +to teach the natives the importance of <i>different trades</i>—a most +judicious arrangement, and which ought to be the foundation of all +missions. What could be a more gratifying sight than groups of these +athletic savages, toiling at the anvil or the saw; erecting for +themselves substantial dwellings; thus leading them by degrees to know +and to appreciate the comforts resulting from peaceful, laborious, and +useful occupations? Then, while they felt sincere gratitude for services +rendered them, at their leisure hours, and on certain days, <i>these</i> +missionaries should attempt to expound to them, in as simple a manner as +possible, the nature of revealed religion!</p> + +<p>In New Zealand, the "mechanic" missionary only carries on his trade till +he has every comfort around him—his house finished, his garden fenced, +and a strong stockade enclosing all, to keep off the "pagan" savages. +This done, then commences the easy task of preaching. They collect a few +ragged urchins of natives, whom they teach to read and write their own +language—the English tongue being forbidden; and when these children +return to their families, they are despised by them, as being effeminate +and useless.</p> + +<p>I once saw a sturdy blacksmith in the prime of life, sitting in the midst +of a group of savages, attempting to expound to them the mysteries of our +holy redemption—perplexing his own brains, as well as those of his +auditors, with the most incomprehensible and absurd opinions. How much +better would he have been employed in teaching them how to weld a piece +of iron, or to make a nail!</p> + +<p>What causes much disapprobation here, is the contemptuous manner in which +they treat their own countrymen, as they receive most of them on the +outside of their stockade fence.</p> + +<p>On our return from Marsden Vale, our savage friends laughed heartily at +us. They had warned us of the reception we should meet with; and their +delight at seeing us again formed a strange contrast to that of their +Christian teachers, whose inhospitable dwellings we determined never to +reenter.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XV"></a><h2>CHAPTER XV</h2> + +<h3>A VISIT FROM HONGI</h3> + +<p>A few days after my visit to the missionaries, while we were busily +employed in constructing our huts, assisted by about fifty natives, on a +sudden a great commotion took place amongst them. Each left his work and +ran to his hut, and immediately returned armed with both musket and +cartouch box: apparently all the arms in the village were mustered, and +all seemed ready for immediate use. On inquiring into the cause of all +these war-like preparations, I was informed that Hongi and his chief men +were crossing the bay in several large war canoes; and though he was +considered as a friend and ally, yet, as he was a man of such desperate +ambition, and consummate cunning, it was considered necessary to receive +him under arms, which he might take either as a compliment, or as a proof +of how well they were aware of the guest they were receiving.</p> + +<p>This man, Hongi, was a most extraordinary character, and a person I had +long had a great curiosity to see, his daring and savage deeds having +often been the subject of conversation in New South Wales. In his own +country he was looked upon as invulnerable and invincible. In the year +1821 he had visited England, during which he had been honoured by having +a personal interview with George the Fourth, and had received from His +Majesty several valuable presents; amongst others, were a superb suit of +chain armour, and a splendid double-barrelled gun. From possessing these +arms, so far superior to any of his neighbours, he looked upon himself +as impossible to be conquered, and commenced a career of warfare and +destruction on all his enemies, and nearly exterminated them. His friends +called him "a god," and his enemies feared him as "a devil." Last year, +Hongi made war upon, and totally annihilated, the tribe who had fifteen +years previously attacked and murdered the crew of the Boyd. He had long +determined to take revenge for that treacherous action, as he always +styled himself "the friend of the English." After this, he removed his +residence, and took possession of the conquered district. But in this his +last battle he had to fight without his invulnerable coat of mail, his +slaves having stolen it and gone over with it to the enemy. His people +were now confirmed in their superstition respecting its being proof +against shot, by his having received during the combat a bullet in the +breast, from the effects of which he is fast sinking into the grave. His +companions related the following extraordinary anecdote concerning him +after he received this wound, which proves his great presence of mind.</p> + +<p>His party were retreating, and the enemy were charging him vigorously; +Hongi stood alone when he received the bullet; he did not fall +immediately, and the enemy were eagerly running up to despatch him, when +he roused all his energies, and shouted aloud for the two hundred chiefs, +who lay concealed, to rush forward and fall on. The foe, hearing this, +paused, when about a dozen chiefs, and indeed, as Hongi well knew, all +that he had, suddenly made their appearance. This caused a panic; they +turned about; the pursued became the pursuers, and nearly the whole tribe +were destroyed.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XVI"></a><h2>CHAPTER XVI</h2> + +<h3>INTERVIEW WITH THE GREAT MAORI CONQUEROR</h3> + +<p>He landed about a mile from the village, and we lost no time in procuring +an interpreter, with whom we went instantly to pay our respects to this +celebrated conqueror.</p> + +<p>We found him and his party; his slaves preparing their morning repast. +The scene altogether was highly interesting. In a beautiful bay, +surrounded by high rocks and overhanging trees, the chiefs sat in mute +contemplation, their arms piled up in regular order on the beach. Hongi, +not only from his high rank (but in consequence of his wound being +toboo'd, or rendered holy), sat apart from the rest. Their richly +ornamented war canoes were drawn up on the strand; some of the slaves +were unlading stores, others were kindling fires. To me it almost seemed +to realise some of the passages of Homer, where he describes the wanderer +Ulysses and his gallant band of warriors. We approached the chief, and +paid our respects to him. He received us kindly, and with a dignified +composure, as one accustomed to receive homage. His look was emaciated; +but so mild was the expression of his features, that he would have been +the last man I should have imagined accustomed to scenes of bloodshed and +cruelty. But I soon remarked, that when he became animated in +conversation, his eyes sparkled with fire, and their expression changed, +demonstrating that it only required his passions to be roused to exhibit +him under a very different aspect. His wife and daughter were permitted +to sit close to him, to administer to his wants, no others being allowed +so to do, on account of his taboo.</p> + +<p>He was arrayed in a new blanket, which completely enveloped his figure, +leaving exposed his highly-tattooed face, and head profusely covered with +long, black, curling hair, adorned with a quantity of white feathers. He +was altogether a very fine study; and, with his permission, I made a +sketch of him, and also one including the whole group. Finding we were +newcomers, he asked us a variety of questions, and, among others, our +opinion of his country. His remarks were judicious and sensible, and he +seemed much pleased with our admiration of his territory. I produced a +bottle of wine that I had brought with me, and his wife supplied him with +a few glasses, which seemed to revive and animate him.</p> + +<p>We were then invited to join him in a trip in one of his canoes, in which +was placed a bed for him to recline upon; his wife seated herself close +to him, while his daughter, a very pretty, interesting girl about fifteen +years of age, took a paddle in her hand, which she used with the greatest +dexterity. I took the liberty of presenting her with a bracelet, with +which she seemed highly delighted; when Hongi, perceiving that I was in a +giving mood, pointed to his beard, and asked me for a razor. Fortunately, +I had put one in my pocket on setting out, and I now presented it to +him, by which gifts we continued on terms of great sociability and +friendship. After a pleasant cruise with this (to us) extraordinary +family, and contriving to make ourselves pretty well understood, we +returned about the close of the day, and landed at the bay. All the +natives were much delighted at our confidence in them, and we were +equally gratified by their hospitality.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XVII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XVII</h2> + +<h3>A MAORI WELCOME</h3> + +<p>I was much amused with the punctilios used in the visit of ceremony paid +to King George. Hongi, accompanied by about a dozen of his chiefs, +advanced towards our settlement, leaving their guns and hatchets behind +them; as they approached, all our tribe discharged their pieces in the +air. When they met, all rubbed noses (a ceremony never to be dispensed +with on formal occasions). They were then conducted by King George to his +huts on the beach, and in the enclosure in front of them the warriors +squatted on the ground. Hongi, being tabooed, or under the immediate +protection of their Atua, or God, still sat apart. Then the mother of +George, called Tururo, or the Queen, and who is regarded quite as a sybil +by the whole tribe, approached Hongi with the greatest respect and +caution, and seated herself some paces from his feet. She then began, +with a most melancholy cadence (her eyes streaming with tears and fixed +upon the ground), the song of welcome. All their meetings of ceremony or +friendship begin with the shedding of copious floods of tears; and as +Hongi's visit was such an unhoped for and unexpected honour, so much +greater in proportion was the necessity for their lamentations. This +woeful song lasted half an hour, and all the assembly were soon in tears; +and though at first I was inclined to turn it into ridicule, I was soon +in the same state myself. The pathetic strain, and the scene altogether, +was most impressive. As the song proceeded, I was informed of the nature +of the subject, which was a theme highly calculated to affect all +present. She began by complimenting the wounded warrior, deploring the +incurable state of his wound, and regretting that God was wanting him, +and was about so soon to take him from his friends! Then she recounted +some of his most celebrated deeds of valour, naming and deploring the +number of his friends who had fallen bravely in the wars, and lamenting +that the enemies who had killed them were still living! This part seemed +to affect them powerfully; and when Tururo ceased her song (being quite +exhausted) they all rose, thus demonstrating their respect and +approbation.</p> + +<p>This was followed by a general attack upon the good things King George +had prepared for them. The slaves came flocking in, bearing baskets of +hot kumaras, potatoes, and fish. I observed their tears had not spoiled +their appetites; they ate voraciously. After having done great honour to +the feast, they all started on their feet for a dance, which lasted a +long while, and with which they concluded the evening.</p> + +<p>The dances of all savage nations are beautiful, but those of the New +Zealanders partake also of the horrible. The regularity of their +movements is truly astonishing; and the song, which always accompanies a +dance, is most harmonious. They soon work themselves up to a pitch of +frenzy; the distortions of their face and body are truly dreadful, and +fill the mind with horror. Love and war are the subjects of their songs +and dances; but the details of the latter passion are by far the most +popular among them. I was astonished to find that their women mixed in +the dance indiscriminately with the men, and went through all those +horrid gestures with seemingly as much pleasure as the warriors +themselves.</p> + +<p>The next morning I was awakened, at daybreak, by the most dismal sounds I +had ever heard. I started up, and found it proceeded from the tribes +parting with each other. They had divided themselves into little parties, +each forming a circle, and were crying most piteously, and cutting their +flesh as a cook would score pork for roasting. On such occasions each is +armed with a sharp shell, or, if he can possibly obtain so valuable a +prize, a piece of a broken glass bottle. All were streaming with tears +and blood, while Hongi and his friends embarked in their large and +richly-ornamented canoes, and sailed from our beach. After his departure, +I soon discovered that, notwithstanding their apparent affection, King +George and his friends were most happy their visitors had left them; and +that it was more the dread of Hongi's power, than love for him, that +induced them to treat him with such respect and homage.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XVIII</h2> + +<h3>EXCURSIONS IN THE INTERIOR</h3> + +<p>I made several excursions into the interior, and each confirmed me in the +good opinion I had formed of the natives. I felt myself quite safe +amongst them. There is a great peculiarity in rambling through this +country; namely, the total absence of quadrupeds. There are abundance of +birds, which are so numerous at times as almost to darken the air—many +of them possessing very sweet notes; and wild ducks, teal, etc., cover +the various streams. Wherever I went I did not discover any grass, almost +every part being covered either with fern or flax; the former yielding +the natives their principal article of food, and the latter their +clothing. To this dearth of animals may be attributed the chief cause of +their ferocity and propensity to cannibalism.</p> + +<p>In most uncivilised countries the natives use their arms against the wild +animals of the forest. The dangers and difficulties they encounter in +overcoming them form a kind of prelude to war, and perfect them in the +use of their weapons. The rifle of the North American Indian would never +be so much dreaded did he not depend upon its produce for his +subsistence. I have myself (during my travels through North America) had +many opportunities of witnessing the certain aim they take both with the +arrow and the bullet; while those in the southern parts of that vast +continent, who depend on taking the wild cattle, acquire, by constant +practice, an equal dexterity with the <i>lassoo</i>, which those who have not +witnessed it could scarcely imagine possible. The New Zealander, while +handling a musket, is quite in a state of trepidation; and though it is +his darling weapon he seems always afraid of it, and is never sure of his +aim till he is quite close to his object. I have mentioned this fact to +several Europeans who had accompanied various tribes to battle, and they +all informed me they made a sad bungling use of the musket; their aim +would be surer if they had large and ferocious animals to hunt or contend +with. There is another circumstance that operates against their acquiring +skill in the use of the gun: they are so fond of cleaning, scrubbing, and +taking them to pieces, that in a short time the locks become loose, the +screws are injured, and they are soon rendered entirely useless, to the +great surprise and dismay of their owners, who are constantly pestering +the Europeans by bringing them <i>sick</i> muskets (as they call them) to look +at, and put to rights, and are quite surprised that we "cannot make them +well again." They cannot be made to comprehend that every white man does +not know how to make a musket, or, at least, to repair it.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XIX"></a><h2>CHAPTER XIX</h2> + +<h3>ENTERTAINED BY MAORI WOMEN</h3> + +<p>On the 24th November we took our departure from the bay, as we had to +return to Hokianga, where we had left our brig; and it was only under a +promise of making a speedy return, and remaining longer with them, that +our savage friends would suffer us to leave them. We expected to reach +the Kerikeri River before night; but in this we were disappointed. It at +length became quite dark; and the ebb tide making against us, rendered +further advance impossible. We had to seek some place of shelter for the +night, and not a hut was visible. While we were debating on what was best +to be done, we observed a light from the shore, and made for it; but, it +being low water, our boat stuck fast in the slime long before we reached +the banks; we were, consequently, obliged to wade knee-deep through the +slippery mud. We soon discovered a party of women sitting round a fire +made in the midst of the swamp. They had come here for the purpose of +procuring shell-fish; and as they are never very fastidious about shelter +or dry beds, they had determined (according to their usual custom) to +pass the night where they had been occupied during the day. This sort of +bivouac I found excessively uncomfortable. The moment we were seated the +water began to ooze out an inch or two all round us. We sought in vain +for a dry place, for we were enveloped in darkness, and surrounded by +rushes and flags six or seven feet high; but, being very much fatigued, +we slept, notwithstanding the misery of a wet bed, with a cloud of fog +for curtains. I did not wake till one of the women gave me a good shake, +and informed me that the day was well up. They had prepared us a +breakfast of hot shell-fish, which they had caught the preceding day, and +they all seemed delighted by our eating heartily of them. As we had some +biscuits in our boat, we sent for them, and gave our "fair founders of +the feast" a share; and we were all very sociable and merry. When we left +them, as it was again low water, the women carried us to our boat, and +took their leave of us amidst peals of laughter. This was another proof +to me that the English are quite safe, though travelling unguarded, +amongst these people.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XX"></a><h2>CHAPTER XX</h2> + +<h3>LOADING SPARS AT HOKIANGA</h3> + +<p>About nine the next morning we reached the Kerikeri River; and, it being +Sunday, the members of the mission met us on landing, and used all their +endeavours to prevent our travelling on that day; but, independent of the +urgent necessity of our reaching Hokianga, the captain of our vessel, who +was with us, being particularly anxious to return on board, we continued +our journey, and at night came to a bivouac in a dense wood, so that we +now had the luxury of stretching our weary limbs on dry ground. The next +day, as we journeyed towards the river, we fell in with all our old +friends, who inquired into the particulars of our adventures, and seemed +highly delighted at our return.</p> + +<p>We found "all right" on board the brig; but as she was chartered to go to +Tongataboo I and my friend Shand determined to remain at New Zealand till +her return. Our principal difficulty seemed to be which side of the +island we should make choice of for a dwelling-place. When it became +known to the natives that we intended to remain with them, several chiefs +came and offered us their protection; and each would have built us a +house, but we preferred making our sojourn at the Bay of Islands. We were +often at a loss how to evade the kind importunities of our savage hosts +without giving them offence. "Is not our country as good as +theirs?"—"Are you not as safe amongst us?"—"Are we not as willing and +as capable of protecting you as Shulitea?" These were the arguments they +used; and, finally, we were obliged to inform them that we had a friend +and countryman (Captain Duke) settled on the other side, who was +preparing a house for our reception. On being informed of this +circumstance they consented to part with us, though evidently with great +reluctance.</p> + +<p>While we lay here the ship Harmony, of London, Captain Middleton, arrived +from Sydney for a cargo of spars. So large a vessel entering the port put +the whole district into commotion; and when the chiefs understood the +nature of her wants, and had seen the fine double-barrelled guns and +store of powder to be given as payment for the wished-for freight, they +hastened to the woods, and the axe was soon laid to the roots of the +trees. I saw them pursuing their laborious employ with alacrity. In a few +days a sufficient number of fine logs came floating down the river to +load the ship, and they were all cleared in a workmanlike manner, ready +to stow away. The chief things to induce these people to work are +firearms and powder; these are two stimulants to their industry which +never fail.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXI"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXI</h2> + +<h3>DEATH OF A GREAT CHIEF</h3> + +<p>A few days after our return to Hokianga we received intelligence that A +Rowa, the father of Mooetara, and the eldest chief in the district, was +dead. These deaths, when they occur among men of rank, are generally +accompanied by some horrible scenes of butchery among their slaves—a +common custom among all savages, but practised here (I was informed) with +peculiar cruelty. We went on shore to witness the ceremony of A Rowa's +lying in state, hoping at the same time that our presence might induce +them to dispense with some of those barbarous cruelties which generally +accompany their funeral rites. We had, indeed, every reason to think we +had conjectured rightly, for nothing of the kind took place; which was +considered by all as a circumstance somewhat remarkable. A great +concourse of savages had assembled all round the village of the deceased +chief, and there was a tremendous firing of muskets, but no particular +marks of grief. I spoke to Mooetara, and requested, as a favour, if it +were not breaking through their established rules, that he would conduct +me to the body of his father. He accordingly led me to the outside of the +village; and under a rude hut (constructed for the purpose) lay the body +of the deceased chief, closely covered up with mats, leaving only part of +the face and head exposed; in his hair was stuck a profusion of long +white feathers, by way of ornament. Two women (whom I understood were his +wives) sat close to the corpse; they were painted all over with red +ochre, and seemed to perform the parts of chief mourners. These kept up a +low moaning noise, and occasionally whisked off the flies from the face +of the deceased. The women, the corpse, the hut, and the ground for some +space round them, were all strictly tapued. Some bundles of fish, and +some calabashes filled with oil, were left close by the body, intended +for his consumption during his passage to the next world.</p> + +<p>I imagine that one reason of no outrage having been committed during this +solemn occasion was our brig being on the point of sailing, and previous +to her departure a great deal of traffic was expected to be carried on +with the natives, for there was still a considerable quantity of muskets +undisposed of; and I think, in this instance, avarice overcame filial +affection—the minds of the chief's family being so intent upon obtaining +good bargains, that they had not time to sit and mourn over their +departed parent, nor to work themselves up into a paroxysm of passion +sufficiently violent to cause them to murder their slaves. This afforded +me a convincing proof that as soon as they are occupied by commerce, or +the useful arts, their barbarous rites will gradually be discontinued, +and will speedily cease altogether.</p> + +<p>Our brig having sailed, we were again alone with these wild yet +interesting people. We expected our stay might be about six months, and +had provided a stock-in-trade, consisting of a barrel of powder, half a +dozen muskets, some fish-hooks, and a quantity of tobacco. Everything we +possessed we delivered into the hands of the natives, who accounted to +us for the stock thus entrusted to their management with the most +scrupulous exactness. Nothing can be fairer than their mode of bartering +with the Europeans; the prices are fixed; ten large hogs, or 120 baskets +of potatoes (about a ton and a-half), are given for a musket; for small +articles, such as fish, Indian corn, or fruits, the ready money are +fish-hooks and tobacco. As we were now about to become inhabitants of New +Zealand, it became necessary that we should be well acquainted with the +particulars of their methods of "doing business," and that we should +apply ourselves diligently to the study of the language, which we +acquired much more readily than I had anticipated.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXII</h2> + +<h3>BRUTAL MURDER OF A WIFE</h3> + +<p>A few days after the departure of the brig I witnessed a specimen of +their summary method of executing justice. A chief, resident in the +village, had proof of the infidelity of one of his wives; and, being +perfectly sure of her guilt, he took his patoo-patoo (or stone hatchet) +and proceeded to his hut, where this wretched woman was employed in +household affairs. Without mentioning the cause of his suspicion, or once +upbraiding her, he deliberately aimed a blow at her head, which killed +her on the spot; and, as she was a slave, he dragged the body to the +outside of the village, and there left it to be devoured by the dogs. The +account of this transaction was soon brought to us, and we proceeded to +the place to request permission to bury the body of the murdered woman, +which was immediately granted. Accordingly, we procured a couple of +slaves, who assisted us to carry the corpse down to the beach, where we +interred it in the most decent manner we could.</p> + +<p>This was the second murder I was very nearly a witness to since my +arrival; and the indifference with which each had been spoken of induced +me to believe that such barbarities were events of frequent occurrence; +yet the manners of all seemed kind and gentle towards each other; but +infidelity in a wife is never forgiven here; and, in general, if the +lover can be taken, he also is sacrificed along with the adulteress. +Truth obliges me to confess that, notwithstanding these horrors staring +them in the face, they will, if opportunity offers, indulge in an +intrigue.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXIII</h2> + +<h3>ANOTHER JOURNEY TO BAY OF ISLANDS</h3> + +<p>As there were two roads across to the Bay of Islands, and I was anxious +to see as much of the country as possible, I determined that my second +journey should be by the longest route. I set off, accompanied only by a +native boy to carry a small portmanteau and to serve me as a guide. As, +on my former journey, we travelled many miles through thick tangled +forests, fatiguing beyond description. In the midst of our toilsome +progress, night frequently overtook us; then, by means of my +fowling-piece, I procured a light, the boy made a fire, and we passed the +night in this vast wilderness, far from the habitation of any human +being! At daybreak we resumed our journey, and at length (about ten +o'clock) we emerged from the wood, and entered upon extensive plains. +These were not naked deserts, similar to the ones I had passed through on +my former route, but were diversified with bush and brake, with a number +of small villages scattered in various directions. At mid-day we arrived +at what in New Zealand is considered a town of great size and importance, +called Ty-a-my. It is situated on the sides of a beautiful hill, the top +surmounted by a pa, in the midst of a lonely and extensive plain, covered +with plantations of Indian corn, Kumara and potatoes. This is the +principal inland settlement, and, in point of quiet beauty and +fertility, it equalled any place I had ever seen in the various countries +I have visited. Its situation brought forcibly to my remembrance the +scenery around Canterbury.</p> + +<p>We found the village totally deserted, all the inhabitants being employed +in their various plantations; they shouted to us as we passed, thus +bidding us welcome, but did not leave their occupations to receive us. To +view the cultivated parts of this country from an eminence a person might +easily imagine himself in a civilised land; for miles around the village +of Ty-a-my nothing but beautiful green fields present themselves to the +eye. The exact rows in which they plant their Indian corn would do credit +to a first-rate English farmer, and the way in which they prepare the +soil is admirable. The greatest deficiency which I observed in the +country around me was the total absence of fences; and this defect +occasions the natives a great deal of trouble, which might very easily be +avoided. Hogs are the principal part of their wealth, with which, at all +times, they can traffic with vessels touching at their ports. These +animals, consequently, are of the utmost importance to them; but during +the growth of their crops, the constant watching the hogs require to keep +them out of the plantations consumes more time than would effectually +fence in their whole country; but I have no doubt, as they already begin +to follow our advice and adopt our plans, they will soon see the utility +of fencing in their land. I have at various times held many conversations +with different chiefs on this subject, all of whom have acknowledged the +propriety of so doing.</p> + +<p>A few miles after leaving this beautiful village we came to a spot +covered with heaps of cinders and hillocks of volcanic matter. I found +all these hillocks small craters, but none of them, burning; and for +miles our road lay through ashes and lava. These fires must have been +extinguished many ages since, as there is not the slightest tradition +among any of the natives of their ever having been burning.</p> + +<p>After passing over this lava, our journey lay through a very swampy +country, intersected with streams. I got completely wearied with +stripping to wade through them, so that at length I plunged in clothes +and all. At the close of a most fatiguing day's march, we arrived in +sight of the bay, having travelled over an extent of about fifty miles +since the morning! No canoe being in sight, and we being too distant to +make signals to our brig, we had to pass another night in bivouac on a +part of the beach called Waitangi; and as it did not rain we slept pretty +comfortably. The next morning I procured a canoe, and went on board our +vessel.</p> + +<p>The day following the brig took her final departure from New Zealand, and +we bade farewell to Captain Kent. We now formally placed ourselves under +the protection of King George, who seemed highly pleased with his charge; +and in a few days three good houses were ready for our reception—one for +ourselves, a second for our stores, and a third for our servants. But our +pleasant prospects were soon obscured by a circumstance totally +unexpected, which placed us in a most critical situation, and which we +had every reason to fear would lead to our total destruction.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXIV"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXIV</h2> + +<h3>VISIT OF A WAR PARTY</h3> + +<p>I was roused one morning at daybreak by my servant running in with the +intelligence that a great number of war canoes were crossing the bay. As +King George had told us but the evening before that he expected a visit +from Ta-ri-ah, a chief of the tribe called Ngapuhis, whose territory lay +on the opposite side of the bay, and given us to understand that Ta-ri-ah +was a man not to be trusted, and therefore feared some mischief might +happen if he really came, the sight of these war canoes naturally caused +us considerable alarm, and we sincerely wished that the visit was over.</p> + +<p>We dressed ourselves with the utmost expedition, and walked down to the +beach. The landing of these warriors was conducted with a considerable +degree of order, and could I have divested myself of all ideas of danger +I should have admired the sight excessively. All our New Zealand +friends—the tribe of Shulitea—were stripped naked, their bodies were +oiled, and all were completely armed; their muskets were loaded, their +cartouch boxes were fastened round their waists, and their patoo-patoos +were fixed to their wrists. Their hair was tied up in a tight knot at the +top of their heads, beautifully ornamented with feathers of the +albatross. As the opposite party landed, ours all crouched on the ground, +their eyes fixed on their visitors, and perfectly silent. When the +debarkation was completed I observed the chief, Ta-ri-ah, put himself at +their head, and march towards us with his party formed closely and +compactly, and armed with muskets and paddles. When they came very near +they suddenly stopped. Our party continued still mute, with their +firelocks poised ready for use. For the space of a few minutes all was +still, each party glaring fiercely on the other; and they certainly +formed one of the most beautiful and extraordinary pictures I had ever +beheld. The foreground was formed by a line of naked savages, each +resting on one knee, with musket advanced, their gaze fixed on the +opposite party, their fine, broad, muscular backs contrasting with the +dark foliage in front, and catching the gleam of the rising sun. The +strangers were clothed in the most grotesque manner imaginable—some +armed, some naked, some with long beards, others were painted all over +with red ochre; every part of each figure was quite still, except the +rolling and glaring of their eyes on their opponents. The background was +formed by the beach, and a number of their beautiful war canoes dancing +on the waves; while, in the distance, the mountains on the opposite side +of the bay were just tinged with the varied and beautiful colours of the +sun, then rising in splendour from behind them.</p> + +<p>The stillness of this extraordinary scene did not last long. The Ngapuhis +commenced a noisy and discordant song and dance, yelling, jumping, and +making the most hideous faces. This was soon answered by a loud shout +from our party, who endeavoured to outdo the Ngapuhis in making horrible +distortions of their countenances; then succeeded another dance from our +visitors, after which our friends made a rush, and in a sort of rough +joke set them running. Then all joined in a pell-mell sort of encounter, +in which numerous hard blows were given and received; then all the party +fired their pieces in the air, and the ceremony of landing was thus +deemed completed. They then approached each other, and began rubbing +noses; and those who were particular friends cried and lamented over each +other.</p> + +<p>The slaves now commenced the labour of making fires to cook the morning +meal, while the chiefs, squatting down, formed a ring, or, rather, an +oblong circle, on the ground; then one at a time rose up, and made long +speeches, which they did in a manner peculiar to themselves. The speaker, +during his harangue, keeps running backwards and forwards within the +oblong space, using the most violent but appropriate gesticulation; so +expressive, indeed, of the subject on which he is speaking, that a +spectator who does not understand their language can form a tolerable +idea as to what the affair is then under debate. The orator is never +interrupted in his speech; but, when he finishes and sits down, another +immediately rises up and takes his place, so that all who choose have an +opportunity of delivering their sentiments, after which the assembly +breaks up.</p> + +<p>Though the meeting of these hostile tribes had thus ended more amicably +than King George and his party could have expected, it was easily to be +perceived that the Ngapuhis were determined on executing some atrocity or +depredations before their return; they accordingly pretended to recollect +some old offence committed by the English settlers at the other end of +the beach. They proceeded thither, and first attacked and broke open the +house of a blacksmith, and carried off every article it contained. They +then marched to the residence of an English captain (who was in England), +and plundered it of everything that could be taken away, and afterwards +sent word they intended to return to our end of the beach. Our fears were +greatly increased by finding that our friends were not sufficiently +strong to protect us from the superior force of the Ngapuhis, and our +chief, George, being himself (we supposed) conscious of his inability, +had left us to depend upon our own resources.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXV"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXV</h2> + +<h3>BURNED OUT OF HOUSE AND HOME</h3> + +<p>We now called a council of war of all the Europeans settled here; and it +was unanimously resolved that we should protect and defend our houses and +property, and fortify our position in the best way we could. Captain Duke +had in his possession four twelve-pounders, and these we brought in front +of the enclosure in which our huts were situated, and were all entirely +employed in loading them with round and grape shot, and had made them all +ready for action, when, to our consternation and dismay, we found we had +a new and totally unexpected enemy to contend with. By some accident one +of our houses was in flames. Our situation was now perilous in the +extreme. The buildings, the work of English carpenters, were constructed +of dry rushes and well-seasoned wood, and this was one of a very +respectable size, and we had hoped, in a very few days, would be finished +fit for our removing into.</p> + +<p>For some seconds we stood in mute amazement, not knowing to which point +to direct our energies. As the cry of "fire" was raised, groups of +natives came rushing from all directions upon our devoted settlement, +stripping off their clothes, and yelling in the most discordant pitch of +voice. I entered the house, and brought out one of my trunks, but on +attempting to return a second time I found it filled with naked savages, +tearing everything to pieces, and carrying away whatever they could lay +their hands upon. The fierce raging of the flames, the heat from the +fire, the yells of the men, and the shrill cries of the women, formed, +altogether, a horrible combination; added to all this was the +mortification of seeing all our property carried off in different +directions, without the least possibility of our preventing it. The tribe +of the Ngapuhis (who, when the fire began, were at the other end of the +beach) left their operations in that quarter and poured down upon us to +share in the general plunder. Never shall I forget the countenance of the +chief, as he rushed forward at the head of his destroying crew! He was +called "The Giant," and he was well worthy of the name, being the tallest +and largest man I had ever seen; he had an immense bushy black beard, and +grinned exultingly when he saw the work of destruction proceeding with +such rapidity, and kept shouting loudly to his party to excite them to +carry off all they could.</p> + +<p>A cask containing seventy gallons of rum now caught fire and blew up with +a terrible explosion; and, the wind freshening considerably, huge volumes +of smoke and flame burst out in every direction. Two of our houses were +so completely enveloped that we had given up all hopes of saving them. +The third, which was a beautifully carved tapued one, some little +distance from the others, and which we had converted into a store and +magazine, was now the only object of our solicitude and terror. For, +besides the valuable property of various kinds which were deposited +within it, it contained several barrels of gunpowder! It was in vain we +attempted to warn the frantic natives to retire from the vicinity of this +danger. At length we persuaded about a dozen of the most rational to +listen while we explained to them the cause of our alarm; and they +immediately ascended to the roof, where, with the utmost intrepidity and +coolness, they kept pouring water over the thatch, thus lessening the +probability of an immediate explosion. About this time we noticed the +reappearance of King George, which circumstance rekindled our hopes. He +was armed with a thick stick, which he laid heavily on the backs of such +of his subjects as were running away with our property, thus forcing them +to relinquish their prizes, and to lay them down before his own mansion, +where all was safe. By this means a great deal was recollected. The fire +was now nearly extinguished; but our two really tolerably good houses +were reduced to a heap of smoking ruins, and the greater part of what +belonged to us was taken away by the Ngapuhis.</p> + +<p>This calamity had made us acquainted with another of their barbarous +customs, which is, whenever a misfortune happens to a community, or an +individual, every person, even the friends of his own tribe, fall upon +and strip him of all he has remaining. As an unfortunate fish, when +struck by a harpoon, is instantly surrounded and devoured by his +companions, so in New Zealand, when a chief is killed, his former friends +plunder his widow and children; and they, in revenge, ill-use and even +murder their slaves—thus one misfortune gives birth to various +cruelties. During the fire, our allies proved themselves the most adroit +and active thieves imaginable, though previously to that event we had +never lost an article, although everything we possessed was open to them.</p> + +<p>When we questioned them about our property, they frankly told us where it +was; and, after some difficulty in settling the amount of its ransom, we +got most of our things back again, with the exception of such as had been +carried off by the Ngapuhis.</p> + +<p>Upon the cruelty of this custom I shall make no comments. Probably I +should have remained in ignorance of this savage law, had I not had the +misfortune to become its victim.</p> + +<p>By redeeming from the natives what they had purloined from the fire, we +had restored to us some of our boxes, desks, and clothes; but all our +little comforts towards housekeeping were irretrievably lost. When the +fire was over we received a visit from one of the missionaries, who made +us a cold offer of assistance. We accepted a little tea, sugar and some +few articles of crockery from them; but, although they knew we stood +there houseless, amongst a horde of savages, they never offered us the +shelter of their roofs. I am very sure that had the calamity befallen +them, we should immediately have offered our huts, and shared with them +everything we possessed. Here was an opportunity of practically showing +the "pagans" (as they termed the New Zealanders) the great Christian +doctrine of "doing to others as we would they should do unto us." I must +acknowledge I was sometimes mortified at being obliged to sleep (three of +us huddled up close together) in a small New Zealand hut, filled with +filth and vermin of all kinds, while at only two miles' distance from us +stood a neat village, abounding in every comfort that a bountiful British +public could provide; and we, members of that community, and, indeed, +partly contributors to the funds for its support.</p> + +<p>The high state of excitement into which the savages had been thrown by +the late conflagration gradually subsided, and as we had escaped the +dreaded calamity of our magazine blowing up, we began to look with +calmness on our desolate condition, and draw comfort from thinking how +much worse we might have been circumstanced than we then were. I hope our +distress may prove a benefit to future sojourners in this country, by +showing them the great importance of forming a proper magazine for +powder. The agonies I suffered in contemplating the destruction which six +barrels of powder, each of an hundredweight, would cause amongst a mob of +several hundred naked savages, it is impossible to imagine!</p> + +<p>King George, as well as all his people, were most anxious to build us a +new habitation entirely themselves. They requested us to give them the +dimensions of the various dwellings, and said we should have no further +trouble about them. A party accordingly proceeded to the bush to collect +materials. They first formed the skeleton of a cottage containing three +rooms, with slight sticks, firmly tied together with strips of flax. +While this was in progress, another party was collecting rushes (which +grow plentifully in the neighbourhood, called Ra-poo). These they spread +in the sun for twenty-four hours, when they considered them sufficiently +dry. They then thatched every part of the house, which for neatness and +strength was equal to anything I had ever seen. The doors and windows we +employed our carpenter to make, these being luxuries quite beyond the +comprehension of the natives. We were thus tolerably well lodged again; +and our time passed on tranquilly, almost every day developing some fresh +trait of character amongst these children of nature.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXVI"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXVI</h2> + +<h3>A HOSTILE DEMONSTRATION</h3> + +<p>I went to reside for a short time at a village about half a mile distant, +where there was a pretty good house vacant. It was called Ma-to-we, and +belonged to a chief named Atoi, a relation of George's, but a much +younger man. His power was not so great, and he was every way subject to +the authority of the tribe under whose protection I had placed myself. +One morning, at daybreak, we were roused by the hasty approach of King +George and all his warriors towards Ma-to-we. All were fully equipped for +war, and each countenance looked fierce and wild. Our late misfortunes +having rendered us more than usually anxious, this hostile appearance +gave us considerable alarm. We left our house to inquire the reason +thereof, and saw George and his followers enter the village, pull down +several fences, fire a few muskets in the air, dance a most hideous dance +of defiance, and then depart; but not one word of explanation could we +obtain from him. In the course of the morning, however, the women +acquainted us with the cause of this mysterious proceeding, which +determined me to remove my things back again to George's village of +Kororarika as soon as possible.</p> + +<p>The affair was simply this: Atoi had two wives. During the time of our +visit to his village, he was absent, and had entrusted these women to the +care of his brother; but he, instead of being faithful to the trust +reposed in him, had actually seduced one of them. This circumstance came +to the knowledge of George, and he, feeling for the honour of his absent +friend, immediately proceeded to the village, and thus gave the parties +warning that he was fully aware of the nature of their proceedings. He +had also dispatched a messenger to Atoi, to inform him of his disgrace, +and to request his immediate return. In the course of the day it was +expected he would arrive, and bring with him a strong party of friends, +all burning with revenge, and eager to punish his brother for his +unnatural perfidy. It was thought that unless George interfered, much +bloodshed might ensue; and it may readily be imagined how anxious we were +that this dreaded meeting should be over; yet I (for one) had determined +that I would be a witness of it. Therefore, when word was brought to me +that Atoi was crossing the bay, I hastened down to the beach. There I +found all parties assembled from both villages. George and his followers, +who were to act as mediators, sat immediately in front of the place of +landing; behind them were Atoi's brother and all his partizans; and in +the rear were all the women and children, with about a dozen white faces +scattered amongst them. The scene was picturesque and exceedingly +interesting. It was near the close of a lovely summer's day—the sun, +fast sinking towards the horizon, threw a warm and mellow glow over the +wide expanse of the far-spreading bay, whose smooth waters were only +disturbed by the approaching canoe cutting its foamy way. It was crowded +with naked warriors, urging their rapid course towards the shore; and we +heard the loud and furious song of the chief, animating his friends to +exertion; we saw his frantic gestures, as he stood in the centre of his +canoe, brandishing his weapons. As they came near the place of landing, +George ran into the stream, and as the canoe touched the shore, attacked +Atoi, but in a playful manner, splashing water over him. Thus irritated, +Atoi jumped on land, and, with a double-barrelled musket in his hand, ran +towards his brother, and doubtless would have killed him on the spot, had +he not been prevented. I now saw the advantage of George and his party +being present. He and three of his subjects seized upon Atoi, and tried +to wrest the weapon from his hands, which if they had been able to +effect, a mortal combat could not take place, such being the custom here. +Atoi was a very powerful man of about thirty, and those who attacked him +had a most difficult task; twice he broke from them; and I then watched +the countenance of his brother, which was perfectly cool and collected, +though the firelock was in readiness, and the finger on the trigger, +which might despatch him instantly. All parties sat perfectly quiet +during the desperate struggle; one of the barrels of Atoi's piece went +off, and the contents flew amongst us, without, however, doing any +material injury; and, finally, the musket was wrested out of his hands. +He then sat still for about twenty minutes, to recover his breath, when +he seized a club and rushed upon his brother (for mortal weapons were now +prohibited). The brother started up, armed in the same manner; some heavy +blows passed between them; when, having thrown aside their clubs, they +grappled each other firmly, and a dreadful struggle ensued. As they were +both completely naked, their hair was the only thing to take hold by; but +being long, thick, and strong, it afforded a firm grasp, and they +committed desperate havoc on each other's persons. At this period of the +fight their poor old mother, who was quite blind, came forward to try and +separate the combatants; the sister and younger brothers now followed her +example; and, finally, the fair and frail cause of all this commotion.</p> + +<p>The brothers, having completely exhausted their strength, were easily +separated; and as their friends had carefully removed all weapons out of +their reach, they of course were deprived of the means of injuring each +other. The members of Atoi's family, together with a few friends, now sat +down in a circle, to converse and consult on the affair. Atoi's wife +totally denied the charge, and protested her innocence, and many +circumstances were brought forward to corroborate her statements. The +husband at length was satisfied, and all parties were reconciled.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXVII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXVII</h2> + +<h3>THE LAW OF RETALIATION</h3> + +<p>This affair was scarcely terminated, when we found that another of a +still more serious nature was likely to arise from it and would threaten +the peace of both villages. When King George sent his messenger to inform +Atoi of the infidelity of his wife, the infuriated husband assaulted the +man, and it was rumoured that he had killed him. This was an offence not +to be forgiven, and George was so exasperated by it that he vowed he +would exterminate the whole of Atoi's tribe. A native, however, arrived +with the intelligence that the man was not dead, but only wounded. This +did not seem to allay George's feelings of resentment, and he instantly +made great preparations for war. When our anxiety was wound up to the +utmost, we were greatly astonished to see Atoi and all his friends +approach our settlement, totally unarmed. George went out to meet them, +looking so full of rage that I thought Atoi stood but a slight chance for +his life. After a great deal of violent pantomimic action and grimace, +the apology offered by Atoi was accepted, and the visit was concluded by +a grand war-dance and sham fight performed in their best manner. King +George, in the fulness of his heart at this complete restoration of +friendship, gave a great feast of kumaras and fish, to which we added +some tobacco; and the whole of the party seated themselves by each other +with the utmost sociality—a convincing proof that animosity is not long +an inmate of their breasts.</p> + +<p>I took every opportunity of inquiring into the nature of their laws and +mode of government, and I found that, in general, their method of +redressing wrongs was very summary, and that their ideas of what was +strictly just were, for the most part, simple and equitable. For any +theft, or offence of that sort, committed by one tribe on another, the +parties are called to instant account. If one native takes from another +any part of his possessions, the party injured has a right to retaliate, +and the party retaliated upon must not make the slightest resistance. We +ourselves experienced a proof of this. Some part of our property, which +we supposed had been destroyed by our late fire, we had been told was to +be found in the hut of a neighbouring chief. We one day took advantage of +his absence, searched the hut ourselves, and discovered our things +carefully deposited therein. Thus assured of the fact, we laid our +complaint before King George, who, after hearing our story to the end, +replied, "Well, my friends, you must go to the hut and take away all your +property, and whatever else you may find, which you may think sufficient +payment for the injury you have received." We accordingly proceeded to +the chief's dwelling, whom we found standing at his door. We charged him +with having robbed us, and entered the house to seize our property. He +held down his head, and seemed ashamed and overpowered at this discovery. +He did not attempt to vindicate his conduct, but quietly allowed us not +only to take away all that had belonged to us, but likewise a musket and +double-barrelled gun, which he concluded he had lost for ever. These we +had only taken away temporarily to deter him from theft in future, for a +few days after we brought them back to him, to his infinite delight and +astonishment.</p> + +<p>I was frequently shocked during my residence in this country by the +number of accidents which continually happened to the natives from +gunpowder, and not even the saddest experience could render them more +careful. We were doubtful of the strength of a French fowling-piece we +had, so we loaded it to the muzzle and discharged it, in order to prove +it. Some young chiefs, who saw us do this (approving of this method), as +soon as they returned home loaded a musket in the same manner, and then +discharged it; but not managing the affair as we did—by means of a +string fastened to the trigger—the piece burst, and mangled two of them +dreadfully, and we got greatly blamed for showing them what was +considered so bad an example.</p> + +<p>A few months since a native came from the interior driving a quantity of +pigs to barter for powder; he obtained several pounds' weight, and set +off to return home. On his journey he passed the night in a hut, and for +safety put the bag of powder under his head as a pillow; and as a New +Zealander always sleeps with a fire close to him, the consequence was, in +the course of the night the fire communicated to the powder, and +destroyed the man and the whole of his family, who were journeying with +him.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXVIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXVIII</h2> + +<h3>A WAR EXPEDITION AND A CANNIBAL FEAST</h3> + +<p>Last year a chief, and cousin of King George, named Pomare, was defeated +and killed by the people of the Thames, and George was now resolved to +revenge his death. This determination having become known, we had a +constant succession of visitors, and a considerable number of blows, +scratches, and rubbing noses were the consequence. Our beach presented a +most interesting and busy scene. A dozen superb war canoes were lying +ready to convey the forces; and, considering their limited means, the +solidity of their structure and the carved work on them are surprising. +None but men of rank are allowed to work upon them, and they labour like +slaves. Some canoes were to be lengthened; others patched; others were +condemned to be broken up, and the fragments taken to complete the new +ones. Every morning we were awakened by the sound of the hammer and saw, +and they were much gratified by our walking down to their dockyard to +observe the progress they made, and by giving our opinions of their work. +They thankfully received any hint we gave them as to better methods of +completing or proceeding with their operations. Here were carvers, +painters, caulkers, and sailmakers, all working in their different +departments with great good humour and industry. Some of their vessels +were eighty feet long, and were entirely covered with beautiful +carving. Their form was light and delicate, and if their intentions were +hostile towards us, they would be very formidable alongside any merchant +man. If our Government should determine to colonise any part of New +Zealand, they would find the natives hardy and willing assistants, and +very different from the natives of New South Wales.</p> + +<a name="image-5"><!-- Image 5 --></a> +<center> +<img src="img/img5.jpg" width="600" height="293" alt="Maori War Expedition (With Mission boat accompanying it.)" title="Maori War Expedition (With Mission boat accompanying it.)"> +</center> + +<h5>Maori War Expedition (With Mission boat accompanying it.)</h5> + +<p>As their canoes were ready for launching, they ran them off the beach, +jumped into them, and scudded across the bay with an almost incredible +swiftness. When it is considered that in each canoe were seated eighty +stout young men, each with a large paddle in his hand propelling the +vessel forward, the velocity with which she flew may be imagined! It was +in the midst of scenes like these that we were passing our time, and I +had just become delighted with the appearance of innocence and industry +so continually displayed by these people, when I was called upon to +witness a sight which exhibited their character in its worst light, and +confirmed all my horrible suspicions regarding their alleged cannibalism.</p> + +<p>The New Zealanders have been long charged with cannibalism; but as no +person of importance or celebrity had actually been a witness to the +disgusting act, in pity to our nature such relations have been +universally rejected, and much has been written to prove the +non-existence of so hideous a propensity. It was my lot to behold it in +all its horrors!</p> + +<p>One morning, about eleven o'clock, after I had just returned from a long +walk, Captain Duke informed me he had heard, from very good authority +(though the natives wished it to be kept a profound secret), that in the +adjoining village a female slave, named Matowe, had been put to death, +and that the people were at that very time preparing her flesh for +cooking. At the same time he reminded me of a circumstance which had +taken place the evening before. Atoi had been paying us a visit, and, +when going away, he recognised a girl whom he said was a slave that had +run away from him; he immediately seized hold of her, and gave her in +charge to some of his people. The girl had been employed in carrying wood +for us; Atoi's laying claim to her had caused us no alarm for her life, +and we had thought no more on the subject; but now, to my surprise and +horror, I heard this poor girl was the victim they were preparing for the +oven! Captain Duke and myself were resolved to witness this dreadful +scene. We therefore kept our information as secret as possible, well +knowing that if we had manifested our wishes they would have denied the +whole affair. We set out, taking a circuitous route towards the village, +and, being well acquainted with the road, we came upon them suddenly, and +found them in the midst of their abominable ceremonies.</p> + +<p>On a spot of rising ground, just outside the village, we saw a man +preparing a native oven, which is done in the following simple manner:—A +hole is made in the ground, and hot stones are put within it, and then +all is covered up close. As we approached, we saw evident signs of the +murder which had been perpetrated; bloody mats were strewed around, and a +boy was standing by them actually laughing: he put his finger to his +head, and then pointed towards a bush. I approached the bush, and there +discovered a human head. My feelings of horror may be imagined as I +recognised the features of the unfortunate girl I had seen forced from +our village the preceding evening!</p> + +<p>We ran towards the fire, and there stood a man occupied in a way few +would wish to see. He was preparing the four-quarters of a human body for +a feast; the large bones, having been taken out, were thrown aside, and +the flesh being compressed, he was in the act of forcing it into the +oven. While we stood transfixed by this terrible sight, a large dog, +which lay before the fire, rose up, seized the bloody head, and walked +off with it into the bushes, no doubt to hide it there for another meal! +The man completed his task with the most perfect composure, telling us, +at the same time, that the repast would not be ready for some hours!</p> + +<p>Here stood Captain Duke and myself, both witnesses of a scene which many +travellers have related, and their relations have invariably been treated +with contempt; indeed, the veracity of those who had the temerity to +relate such incredible events has been everywhere questioned. In this +instance it was no warrior's flesh to be eaten; there was no enemy's +blood to drink, in order to infuriate them. They had no revenge to +gratify; no plea could they make of their passions having been roused by +battle, nor the excuse that they eat their enemies to perfect their +triumph. This was an action of unjustifiable cannibalism. Atoi, the +chief, who had given orders for this cruel feast, had only the night +before sold us four pigs for a few pounds of powder; so he had not even +the excuse of want of food. After Captain Duke and myself had consulted +with each other, we walked into the village, determining to charge Atoi +with his brutality.</p> + +<p>Atoi received us in his usual manner; and his handsome, open countenance +could not be imagined to belong to so savage a monster as he had proved +himself to be. I shuddered at beholding the unusual quantity of potatoes +his slaves were preparing to eat with this infernal banquet. We talked +coolly with him on the subject, for, as we could not prevent what had +taken place, we were resolved to learn, if possible, the whole +particulars. Atoi at first tried to make us believe he knew nothing about +it, and that it was only a meal for his slaves; but we had ascertained it +was for himself and his favourite companions. After various endeavours to +conceal the fact, Atoi frankly owned that he was only waiting till the +cooking was completed to partake of it. He added that, knowing the horror +we Europeans held these feasts in, the natives were always most anxious +to conceal them from us, and he was very angry that it had come to our +knowledge; but, as he had acknowledged the fact, he had no objection to +talk about it. He told us that human flesh required a greater number of +hours to cook than any other; that if not done enough it was very tough, +but when sufficiently cooked it was as tender as paper. He held in his +hand a piece of paper, which he tore in illustration of his remark. He +said the flesh then preparing would not be ready till next morning; but +one of his sisters whispered in my ear that her brother was deceiving us, +as they intended feasting at sunset.</p> + +<p>We inquired why and how he had murdered the poor girl. He replied that +running away from him to her own relations was her only crime. He then +took us outside his village, and showed us the post to which she had been +tied, and laughed to think how he had cheated her: "For," said he, "I +told her I only intended to give her a flogging; but I fired, and shot +her through the heart!" My blood ran cold at this relation, and I looked +with feelings of horror at the savage while he related it. Shall I be +credited when I again affirm that he was not only a handsome young man, +but mild and genteel in his demeanour? He was a man we had admitted to +our table, and was a general favourite with us all; and the poor victim +to his bloody cruelty was a pretty girl of about sixteen years of age!</p> + +<p>While listening to this frightful detail, we felt sick almost to +fainting. We left Atoi, and again strolled towards the spot where this +disgusting mess was cooking. Not a native was now near it: a hot, fetid +steam kept occasionally bursting from the smothered mass; and the same +dog we had seen with the head now crept from beneath the bushes, and +sneaked towards the village. To add to the gloominess of the whole, a +large hawk rose heavily from the very spot where the poor victim had been +cut in pieces. My friend and I sat gazing on this melancholy place; it +was a lowering, gusty day, and the moaning of the wind through the +bushes, as it swept round the hill on which we were, seemed in unison +with our feelings.</p> + +<p>After some time spent in contemplating the miserable scene before us, +during which we gave full vent to the most passionate exclamations of +disgust, we determined to spoil this intended feast. This resolution +formed, we rose to execute it. I ran off to our beach, leaving Duke on +guard, and, collecting all the white men I could, I informed them of what +had happened, and asked them if they would assist in destroying the oven +and burying the remains of the girl. They consented, and each having +provided himself with a shovel or a pickaxe, we repaired in a body to +the spot. Atoi and his friends had by some means been informed of our +intention, and they came out to prevent it. He used various threats to +deter us, and seemed highly indignant; but as none of his followers +appeared willing to come to blows, and seemed ashamed that such a +transaction should have been discovered by us, we were permitted by them +to do as we chose. We accordingly dug a tolerably deep grave; then we +resolutely attacked the oven. On removing the earth and leaves, the +shocking spectacle was presented to our view—the four quarters of a +human body half roasted. During our work clouds of steam enveloped us, +and the disgust created by our task was almost overpowering. We collected +all the parts we could recognise; the heart was placed separately, we +supposed, as a savoury morsel for the chief himself. We placed the whole +in the grave, which we filled up as well as we could, and then broke and +scattered the oven.</p> + +<p>By this time the natives from both villages had assembled, and a scene +similar to this was never before witnessed in New Zealand. Six unarmed +men, quite unprotected (for there was not a single vessel in the harbour, +nor had there been for a month), had attacked and destroyed all the +preparations of the natives for what they consider a national feast; and +this was done in the presence of a great body of armed chiefs, who had +assembled to partake of it. After having finished this exploit, and our +passion and disgust had somewhat subsided, I could not help feeling that +we had acted very imprudently in thus tempting the fury of these savages, +and interfering in an affair that certainly was no concern of ours; but +as no harm accrued to any of our party, it plainly shows the influence +"the white men" have already obtained over them; had the offence we +committed been done by any hostile tribe, hundreds of lives would have +been sacrificed.</p> + +<p>The next day our old friend King George paid us a long visit, and we +talked over the affair very calmly. He highly disapproved of our conduct. +"In the first place," said he, "you did a foolish thing, which might have +cost you your lives; and yet did not accomplish your purpose after all, +as you merely succeeded in burying the flesh near the spot on which you +found it. After you went away it was again taken up, and every bit was +eaten"—a fact I afterwards ascertained by examining the grave and +finding it empty. King George further said: "It was an old custom, which +their fathers practised before them; and you had no right to interfere +with their ceremonies. I myself," added he, "have left off eating human +flesh, out of compliment to you white men; but you have no reason to +expect the same compliance from all the other chiefs. What punishment +have you in England for thieves and runaways?" We answered, "After trial, +flogging or hanging." "Then," he replied, "the only difference in our +laws is, you flog and hang, but we shoot and eat."</p> + +<p>After thus reproving us, he became very communicative on the subject of +cannibalism. He said, he recollected the time prior to pigs and potatoes +being introduced into the island (an epoch of great importance to the New +Zealanders), and stated that he was born and reared in an inland +district, and the only food they then had consisted of fern roots and +kumara; fish they never saw, and the only flesh he then partook of was +human. But I will no longer dwell on this humiliating subject. Most +white men who have visited the island have been sceptical on this point; +I myself was before I had "ocular proof." Consequently I availed myself +of the first opportunity to convince myself of the fact. I have reflected +upon the subject, and am thoroughly satisfied that nothing will cure the +natives of this dreadful propensity but the introduction of many +varieties of animals, both wild and tame, and all would be sure to thrive +in so mild and fine a climate.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXIX"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXIX</h2> + +<h3>SLAVERY AMONG THE MAORIS</h3> + +<p>The scene I have just described brings into consideration the subject of +slavery, as it now exists in New Zealand. That slavery should be the +custom of savage nations and cannibals, is not a cause of wonder: they +are the only class of human beings it ought to remain with. Here slavery +assumes its most hideous shape! Every one they can effect a seizure of in +an enemy's country becomes the slave of the captors. Chiefs are never +made prisoners; they either fight to the last, or are killed on the spot, +and their heads are preserved (by a peculiar method) as trophies. +Children are greatly prized: these they bring to their dwellings, and +they remain slaves for life. Upon the number of slaves a chief can muster +he takes his rank as a man of wealth and consequence in society; and the +only chance these wretched beings have of being released from their +miseries, is their master getting into a rage, and murdering them without +further ceremony.</p> + +<p>On entering a village, a stranger instantly discovers which portion of +its inhabitants are the slaves, though both the complexion and the +dresses of all are alike. The free Zealander is a joyous, good-humoured +looking man, full of laughter and vivacity, and is chattering +incessantly; but the slaves have invariably a squalid, dejected look; +they are never seen to smile, and appear literally half starved. The +beauties characteristic of a New Zealander are his teeth and hair; the +latter, in particular, is his pride and study; but the slaves have their +heads half shorn. The male slave is not allowed to marry; and any +intercourse with a female, if discovered, is generally punished by death. +Never was there a body of men so completely cut off from all society as +these poor slaves; they never can count, with certainty, on a single +moment of life, as the savage caprice of their master may instantly +deprive them of it. If, by chance, a slave should belong to a kind and +good master, an accident happening to him, or any of his family, will +probably prove equally fatal to the slave, as some are generally +sacrificed on the death of a chief.</p> + +<p>Thus these poor slaves are deprived of every hope and stimulus by which +all other classes and individuals are animated; no good conduct of theirs +towards their master, no attachment to his person or family, no fidelity +or long service can ensure kind treatment. If the slave effect his escape +to his own part of the country, he is there treated with contempt; and +when he dies (if a natural death), his body is dragged to the outside of +the village, there to be made sport of by the children, or to furnish +food for the dogs! but more frequently his fate is to receive a fatal +blow in a fit of passion, and then be devoured by his brutal master! Even +the female slaves who, if pretty, are frequently taken as wives by their +conquerors, have not a much greater chance of happiness, all being +dependent upon the caprice of their owners.</p> + +<p>When I can relate anything favourable to the missionaries, I invariably +intend to do so, which will account for the introduction of the +following: A few days since, I paid a visit to one of their settlements, +and noticed a remarkably fine native woman attending as a servant. She +was respectably dressed, and in every respect (except complexion) she was +similar to a European. She spoke English fluently. Upon expressing my +admiration of her, I was informed that this woman had been a slave of +Hongi's, and that about a year previous he had lost one of his sons, and +had determined to sacrifice this poor girl as an atonement. She was +actually bound for the purpose, and nothing but the strong interference +of the whole of the missionary society here could have saved her life. +They exerted themselves greatly, and preserved her; and she had proved a +faithful and valuable servant.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXX"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXX</h2> + +<h3>PIRATICAL SEIZURE OF A VESSEL</h3> + +<p>Before finally quitting the subject of slavery, I must give an account of +some white men I saw in this state of degradation, and who belonged to a +chief who visited us some weeks since. In the beginning of 1827, the +Government of New South Wales hired the brig Wellington to convey a +number of prisoners to Norfolk Island, most of whom were felons of the +worst description: the greater part were under sentence of banishment for +life. These desperadoes amounted to seventy-four; by far too many for the +size of the brig, as those whose duty is was to guard them, and the crew +of the vessel, were too few to keep them under subjection. When within a +few days' sail of their destination, they rose on the guard, and, after a +desperate struggle, made themselves masters of the vessel, which was a +very fine one, and was well provided with arms and stores of every kind, +amounting to a sufficiency to carry them to any part of the world they +chose. But the machinations of the wicked rarely prosper, and this was +another proof of the truth of the observation; for, after a stormy and +violent debate among themselves, they at length determined to run for the +Bay of Islands, and if any vessel more eligible was there, they were to +take possession of her, and leave the Wellington behind, she having no +register. It is but justice to them to state that they behaved with +humanity to their captives, and no lives were lost: they appointed +officers amongst themselves, and, with the assistance of the deposed +captain, made this port. On their arrival here, they found two English +whalers, the Sisters, Captain Duke, and the Harriet. The commanders, as +is usual on these occasions, went immediately on board the newcomer. +Captain Duke well knew the vessel, having seen her at Sydney; but, of +course, had no idea of what had happened. The pirates received them with +great civility, and deceived them with a false description of their +voyage—of being bound to a southern port with prisoners; and the two +captains, not having the slightest suspicion of who their hosts really +were, passed a very merry evening with these marauders.</p> + +<p>Soon, however, their bad management of the vessel, their want of +discipline, and the general confusion on board, roused a vague suspicion +in the minds of the two captains that all was not "quite right" on board +the Wellington. The real captain, too, had succeeded in conveying a note +to Duke, informing him of his situation, and claiming his assistance to +recapture the brig, and entreating him to release them all from +captivity.</p> + +<p>This communication produced universal alarm, as both the whalers were +quite unprovided for attack or defence, and all the missionary +settlements lay quite at the mercy of this band of pirates. Had the +latter acted with promptness and spirit, they might easily have made +themselves masters of the whole; but while they were arguing and +hesitating where they would make their first attack, the whalers were +actively employed in getting their great guns out of the hold, and in +preparing their vessels for defence; so that, by the time the pirates +came to the resolution to attack them, the whalers were in a good +posture for resistance, and finally became the assailants. Aided by the +prompt assistance of the natives, the whole of these outlaws were taken +into custody, with the exception of six. The extreme interest the savages +took in capturing these deluded men was truly astonishing. When they were +made to understand that these were King George's (of England) slaves, who +had broken loose, they knew, from their own laws, that they ought to be +taken, and they displayed a great deal of courage and address in +approaching and securing them.</p> + +<p>The pirates (having many passengers and others in their power) stipulated +that they should be landed at Kororarika, unmolested by any of the +English. This was granted; but no sooner were they left by themselves +than a party of natives came forward, seized and bound them, stripped off +their clothes, and, after dressing themselves up in them, conducted their +prisoners on board the whalers; but notwithstanding the anxiety of the +whalers to secure the whole, and the activity of the natives, six of them +found means to elude the search, and here they now are.</p> + +<p>The day on which our houses were burned, these six landed in the train of +one of the chiefs; and I have since entertained a suspicion that it was +their desire of revenge that occasioned the destruction of our property +at the time the calamity happened. I chanced to be in the house alone, +and was amazed by seeing an Englishman enter the hut with his face +tattooed all over. Not being aware he was one of the runaways from the +Wellington, I spoke to him. He slunk into our cooking-house on pretence +of lighting his pipe, and before ten minutes had elapsed, the house was +in flames.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXXI"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXXI</h2> + +<h3>THE CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS</h3> + +<p>The summer was now far advanced, and never, during its progress, had we +been incommoded by any very hot weather. Our house was generally crowded +with visitors: for, as it was the workmanship of King George and his +people, they were prodigiously proud of it, and each seemed to think he +had an undoubted right to sit in it as much as he liked. This, at times, +we felt as a great annoyance; but we were obliged to be very cautious not +to say or do anything that should give offence to them, as all were +exceedingly irritable, and we felt it to be most essential to our comfort +to continue on friendly terms with them.</p> + +<p>Although we were situated in the same latitude as Sydney, we found the +climate of New Zealand infinitely superior. Moderate heats and +beautifully clear skies succeeded each other every day. We were quite +free from those oppressive, feverish heats which invariably prevail in +the middle of the day at Sydney, and from those hot pestilential winds +which are the terror of the inhabitants of New South Wales; nor were we +subject to those long droughts, which are often the ruin of the +Australian farmer. The temperature here was neither too hot nor too cold, +neither too wet nor too dry. Reflecting on this country—its situation, +inhabitants, and climate—I felt convinced that, if it were the object of +our Government to form a new colony, they could not select a more +desirable spot than New Zealand. When we left Sydney, a disease was +raging there of a most disagreeable nature, namely, catarrh. As usual, it +affected strongly the eyes and nose, and generally proved fatal to the +very old and to children. We found the poor natives here subject to the +same complaint, which they called the "Murray," or "Murraybad"; and they +declared they caught it from us Europeans.</p> + +<p>I could scarcely refrain from laughing while witnessing the strange +methods they adopted to effect a cure. Sometimes they would envelope +their heads entirely in green leaves, at other times they would almost +roast themselves in a heated hut; but their universal remedy, and the one +they generally found successful, was starvation, which is, in fact, the +doctor who cures them of all the diseases the Europeans have imported +amongst them: and, I confess, I have often been amazed at their rapid +recovery from maladies which I should have thought incurable. The other +day I asked the opinion of a clever medical man, who came here with one +of the whalers, and he informed me the only cases he had met with amongst +the natives, which terminated fatally, were a few instances of +consumption.</p> + +<p>After the novelty of our savage life began to wear away, I rambled much +about the country, in order to form some judgment of its capability of +improvement. I never possessed any practical knowledge of farming, and +therefore cannot give a scientific opinion or description of the +different soils. In whatever direction I travelled, and at this time I +had crossed the country in various directions several times, the soil +appeared to me to be fat and rich, and also well watered. From every +part of it which the natives have cultivated, the produce has been +immense. Here, where the finest samples of the human race are to be +found, the largest and finest timber grows, and every vegetable (yet +planted) thrives, the introduction of European grasses, fruits, etc., +etc., would be a great desideratum. Were this done, in a very short time +farms would be more eagerly sought after here than they now are in New +South Wales. All the fruits and plants hitherto introduced by the +missionary establishments have succeeded wonderfully. Peaches and water +melons now were in full season; the natives brought baskets full of them +to our door every day, which they exchanged with us for the merest +trifles, such as a fish-hook, or a button.</p> + +<p>Indian corn was likewise very abundant, but as the natives did not +possess any means or knowledge of grinding it, they were not aware of its +full value. Their only method of cooking it was one very disgusting to +Europeans. They soaked the ear in water till it was quite soft and sour, +the smell from which was exceedingly offensive; they then placed it in +their earth ovens to bake, and when they partook of it they seemed to +enjoy it very much.</p> + +<p>In one of my journeys across the island I was accompanied by my Scotch +friend, Mr. Shand, who prided himself very much upon his general +knowledge of agricultural pursuits; and when I indulged in some sudden +bursts of admiration at the beauty of the surrounding prospect, he would +invariably check my enthusiasm, by observing that no animals could +possibly live in a country so overgrown with fern, and where no grass was +indigenous. These observations, often repeated, obliged me to qualify my +admiration of this picturesque and beautiful land; but my surprise, and I +may say my triumph, were complete when, on approaching the missionary +village of Kirikiri, we fell in with a herd of at least a hundred fat +cattle, browsing on the sides of the hill, and having nothing else but +this very fern to eat; and, on inquiry, we found they gave as good milk, +and were in as healthy a condition, as when they grazed on the rich +grasses of Lincolnshire.</p> + +<p>My friend, Captain Duke, made great preparations for the return of his +ships, and purchased many pigs to be salted. The self-denial of the +natives is wonderful: though very fond of animal food, they sell the +whole to us Europeans for the means of war; thus conquering the appetite +for the purpose of possessing arms to make them terrible in the sight of +their enemies. This feeling, properly directed, may lead to their +becoming a great nation. In the course of our saltings and picklings of +pork, owing to the warmth of the weather, a considerable quantity was +spoiled. I recommended its being immediately thrown into the sea, but +Duke, who knew the propensities of the people better than I did, and +wished to ingratiate himself among them, sent for some of his favourites, +and presented them with the damaged meat, with which they marched off +highly delighted, and made a public feast of it in the evening.</p> + +<a name="image-6"><!-- Image 6 --></a> +<center> +<img src="img/img6.jpg" width="600" height="417" alt="New Zealand Method of Tattooing. (From a sketch by A. Earle.)" title="New Zealand Method of Tattooing. (From a sketch by A. Earle.)"> +</center> + +<h5>New Zealand Method of Tattooing. (From a sketch by A. Earle.)</h5> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXXII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXXII</h2> + +<h3>THE ART OF TATTOOING</h3> + +<p>The art of tattooing has been brought to such perfection here, that +whenever we have seen a New Zealander whose skin is thus ornamented, we +have admired him. It is looked upon as answering the same purposes as +clothes. When a chief throws off his mats, he seems as proud of +displaying the beautiful ornaments figured on his skin as a first-rate +exquisite is in exhibiting himself in his last fashionable attire. It is +an essential part of war-like preparations. The whole of this district of +Kororarika was preparing for the approaching war. Their canoes, muskets, +powder and balls, increased daily; and a very ingenious artist, called +Aranghie, arrived to carry on this important branch of his art, which was +soon placed in requisition, for all the mighty men in the neighbourhood +were one by one under his operating hands.</p> + +<p>As this "professor" was a near neighbour of mine, I frequently paid him a +visit in his "studio," and he returned the compliment whenever he had +time to spare. He was considered by his countrymen a perfect master in +the art of tattooing, and men of the highest rank and importance were in +the habit of travelling long journeys in order to put their skins under +his skilful hands. Indeed, so highly were his works esteemed, that I have +seen many of his drawings exhibited even after death. A neighbour of mine +very lately killed a chief who had been tattooed by Aranghie, and, +appreciating the artist's work so highly, he skinned the chieftain's +thighs, and covered his cartouch box with it.</p> + +<p>I was astonished to see with what boldness and precision Aranghie drew +his designs upon the skin, and what beautiful ornaments he produced; no +rule and compasses could be more exact than the lines and circles he +formed. So unrivalled is he in his profession, that a highly-finished +face of a chief from the hands of this artist is as greatly prized in New +Zealand as a head from the hands of Sir Thomas Lawrence is amongst us. It +was most gratifying to behold the respect these savages pay to the fine +arts. This "professor" was merely a <i>kooky</i> or slave, but by skill and +industry he raised himself to an equality with the greatest men of his +country; and as every chief who employed him always made him some +handsome present, he soon became a man of wealth, and was constantly +surrounded by such important personages as Pungho Pungho, Ruky Ruky, Kivy +Kivy, Aranghy Tooker, etc., etc. My friend Shulitea (King George) sent +him every day the choicest things from his own table. Though thus basking +in the full sunshine of court favour, Aranghie, like a true genius, was +not puffed up with pride by his success, for he condescended to come and +take tea with me almost every evening. He was delighted with my drawings, +particularly with a portrait I made of him. He copied so well, and seemed +to enter with such interest into the few lessons of painting I gave him, +that if I were returning from here direct to England, I would certainly +bring him with me, as I look upon him as a great natural genius.</p> + +<a name="image-7"><!-- Image 7 --></a> +<center> +<img src="img/img7.jpg" width="600" height="471" alt="Specimens of Tattooed Faces and Thigh. (From "Expedition de l'Astrolabe.")" title="Specimens of Tattooed Faces and Thigh. (From "Expedition de l'Astrolabe.")"> +</center> + +<h5>Specimens of Tattooed Faces and Thigh. (From "Expedition de l'Astrolabe.")</h5> + +<p>One of the important personages who came to the village to employ the +talent of our artist was a <i>Mr</i>. Rooky Rooky (and he was always very +particular in remembering the <i>Mister</i>); he brought four of his wives +with him, leaving six more at home (polygamy in New Zealand being allowed +to any extent). One of this man's wives was a little girl not more than +ten years of age, and she excited a great deal of interest amongst us, +which, when he discovered, he became very anxious to dispose of her to +any of us. He importuned us incessantly on the subject, saying she was +his slave, and offered her in exchange for a musket.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXXIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXXIII</h2> + +<h3>TRIBAL GOVERNMENT AND RELIGION</h3> + +<p>Though from my increased knowledge of the language, I was enabled to hold +longer conversations, I could not discover that the New Zealanders had +any universal form of government: there appeared to me to be no public +bodies, or any functionaries employed by the people. Each chief seemed to +possess absolute power over his own slaves, and there his authority +terminated. Wealth made him feared by his foes, but gave him no influence +over his friends. All offence offered to any one of a tribe (or clan) is +instantly followed by some act of retaliation by the aggrieved party; and +if one tribe is too weak to contend against the one from whom they have +received the injury, they call in the aid of another. But should the +offence be of a very aggravated nature, and several families be injured +by it, a meeting of the chiefs is called. They assemble in one of their +forts, and, after a discussion, decide either for an amicable adjustment, +or for an exterminating war. Thus these misguided beings are continually +destroying each other for some imaginary insult.</p> + +<p>I became acquainted with a few venerable men of truly noble and +praiseworthy characters, such as would do honour to any age, country, or +religion. They had passed their whole lives in travelling from one +chieftain's residence to another, for the purpose of endeavouring to +explain away insults, to offer apologies, and to strive by every means +in their power to establish peace between those about to plunge their +country into the horrors of war. I have several times met these +benevolent men journeying through the country on these pacific missions; +and twice during my residence here they have been the happy means of +preventing bloodshed. Although the New Zealander is so fond of war, and +possesses such war-like manners, yet are these peacemakers held in the +highest respect, although they do not hold any sacred function—indeed, +no order of priesthood exists amongst the natives. I have never +discovered any symptoms of religion in these people, except it consists +in a great variety of absurd and superstitious ceremonies. Before I +visited this island I used to imagine, from seeing so great a variety of +carved figures which had been brought from this country, that they were +idols, to whom they paid their devotions; but in this I was deceived. +They were merely the grotesque carvings of rude artists, possessing a +lively fancy, and were a proof of their industry as well as genius. Every +chief's house is adorned with an abundance of these carved monsters. One +of their favourite subjects is a lizard taking hold of the top of a man's +head; their tradition being that that was the origin of man. The lizard +is sacred, and never injured by them. Several of their chiefs assured me +they believed in the existence of a great and invisible spirit, called +Atna, who keeps a constant charge and watch over them; and that they are +constantly looking out for tokens of his approbation or displeasure. +There is not a wind that blows but they imagine it bears some message +from him. And there are not wanting crafty men who pretend to a much more +intimate knowledge of his sentiments than the generality, and they easily +work on the minds of the credulous and the ignorant. These imposters +obtain great consideration, and their counsel and advice is most +anxiously sought after by those about to undertake any important +business; but, like ancient astrologers and modern gypsies, they speak +only in ambiguous terms; so that whatever may be the result, their +prediction may still correspond with it.</p> + +<p>Like all rude and ignorant people, the New Zealanders seem more to fear +the wrath of their God than to love his attributes; and constant +sacrifices (too often human ones) are offered up to appease his anger. +They imagine that the just and glorious Deity is ever ready to destroy, +and that His hand is always stretched forth to execute vengeance.</p> + +<p>These sacred, or, more correctly speaking, these "cunning" men and women, +who pretend to see into futurity, and to hold an intercourse with the +Great Spirit, are here (in one way, at least) turned to a good and useful +account. As they themselves are held sacred, everything they wish to have +taken particular care of, they can render sacred also. All the chiefs +find these people of the greatest use in protecting their property, for +they possess the power of tabooing, and when once this ceremony is +performed over any person or thing, no one dares to touch either; and for +a sufficiently good bribe they will impart their sacred power to any +chief, who, by means of this device, thus can protect a field of potatoes +or grain, at fifty miles distance from his settlement, more securely and +effectually than by any fences, or number of persons he might place to +guard it.</p> + +<p>This ceremony of taboo, which is common to the whole of the South Sea +Islands, seems the principal part of their religion, and it is really +difficult to walk without trespassing or infringing on some spot under +this influence. All those who touch a corpse are immediately taboo'd, and +must be fed like an infant, as their own hands must not touch anything +that is put into their mouths. In fact, as we strolled through the +village at the time of their evening repast, it appeared as though some +dreadful disease had suddenly struck the greater part of the inhabitants, +and deprived them of the use of their limbs, most of them being either +fed by their slaves, or lying flat down on the ground, and with their +mouths eating out of their platters or baskets. The canoe that carries a +corpse to the place of its interment is, from that time, taboo'd and laid +up; and if any one by chance touches it, he does so at his peril.</p> + +<p>All those chiefs who were under the operating hands of Aranghie, the +tatooer, were under this law, and all those who worked upon their war +canoes were similarly situated. Unfortunately for me, I one day took away +a handful of chips from their dockyard to make our fire burn clearly. I +was informed they were taboo'd, and upon my pleading ignorance, and +sorrow for the misdemeanour, together with a promise not to renew the +offence, I was pardoned. A poor hen of ours did not escape so well; she, +poor thing, ventured to form a nest, and actually hatched a fine family +of chickens amongst these sacred shavings! Loud was the outcry, and great +the horror she occasioned when she marched forth cackling, with her merry +brood around her. She and "all her little ones" were sacrificed +instantly. What became of their bodies we could never learn; probably the +workmen were not too fastidious to eat them.</p> + +<p>I have observed, since my residence here, one circumstance which proves a +kind feeling in the natives, and shows they are not averse to the +preaching of the missionaries, or the doctrines they inculcate.</p> + +<p>It was the custom of all the Europeans settled here, on the beach at +Kororarika, to refrain from all kinds of work on the Sabbath; to shave, +and dress themselves in their best habiliments; and if any of the +missionaries came over, they went forth to meet them, and hear divine +service. Several of the natives generally assembled and witnessed the +ceremony; and as they observed it came every seventh day, they called it +"the white taboo'd day, when the pakeha (or white men) put on clean +clothes, and leave off work;" and, strange to say, the natives also +abstained from working on that day. Nothing could induce them to the +contrary; not that we wished to persuade them to work, but merely +endeavoured so to do to ascertain the strength of their politeness. Not a +bit of work would they do upon a Sunday, although it was a critical time +with them; for all the chiefs were unprepared with their war canoes for +the approaching expedition. At length we discovered that their cunning +was as conspicuous as their politeness. They had observed we generally +lay longer in bed on a Sunday morning than any other; they accordingly +were up by break of day, and had completed many hours' work before we +made our appearance; but the moment one of us did appear the work was +instantly left off. This degree of outward respect, though craftily +managed, was infinitely more than could be reasonably expected from a +rude and turbulent savage. It is mere respect than we Europeans pay to +any religious ceremony we do not understand. Even their taboo'd grounds +would not be so respected by us, if we were not quite certain they +possessed the power instantly to revenge any affront offered to their +sacred places.</p> + +<p>Of all animals introduced by the Europeans, the most unserviceable, and +indeed injurious, have been the dogs. They have increased rapidly; every +spot was crowded with poor half-starved curs, that were all night long +committing depredations on the poultry, pigs, and goats; and if some +effectual means of diminishing this pernicious breed is not soon resorted +to, the island will be cleared of every other quadruped. Goats were +beginning to increase, and the craggy heights round the bays formed a +favourite retreat for these interesting wanderers. Captain Duke put +himself to great expense and trouble, and effected the importation of +some sheep from Van Diemen's Land; but the dogs soon destroyed them all.</p> + +<h5>THE MASSACRE OF THE FRENCH NAVIGATOR MARION AND PARTY</h5> + +<p>Our friend George generally paid us a visit after the business of the day +was over, and took a cup of tea; wine or grog he detested: so, while he +sipped his beverage, we lit our pipes, and managed, with our slight +knowledge of his language, together with his imperfect English, to keep +up a sort of conversation. Sometimes this was rather wearisome; but +occasionally it became interesting in the extreme. He told us that, when +Captain Cook touched here, he was a little child; but that his mother +(old Turero, who was then with him) remembered his coming well. The +French navigator, Marion, he recollected perfectly, and made one of the +party that murdered him and his people. His observation was, "They were +all brave men; but they were killed and eaten."</p> + +<p>He assured us that the catastrophe was quite unpremeditated. Marion's +entire ignorance of the customs of the New Zealanders occasioned that +distressing event: as I have before observed, that strangers, not +acquainted with their religious prejudices, are likely to commit some +fatal error; and no action is more likely to lead a party into danger +than an incautious use of the seine, for most of the beaches (best suited +for that purpose) are taboo'd. This led to the dreadful fate of Marion +and his party. I understood from George, that when Marion's men assembled +to trail their net on the sacred beach, the natives used every kind of +entreaty and remonstrance to induce them to forbear, but, either from +ignorance or obstinacy, they persisted in their intentions, and drew +their net to land.</p> + +<p>The natives, greatly incensed by this act of impiety, vowed revenge; and +the suspicions of the French not being roused, an opportunity soon +presented itself of taking ample retaliation. The seine being very heavy, +the French required the assistance of the natives in drawing it on shore. +These wily fellows instantly consented to the task, and placed themselves +alternately between each Frenchman, apparently, to equalise the work. +Consequently, in the act of pulling, each native had a white man before +him; and, on an appointed signal, the brains of each European were +knocked out by a tremendous blow of the stone hatchet.</p> + +<p>Captain Marion, who, from his ship, was an eye-witness of these horrid +murders, instantly hastened on shore with the remainder of his crew to +avenge the slaughter of his countrymen. Led on more by ardour than +prudence, he suffered himself to be surrounded; was overpowered by +numbers, defeated, and every one was put to death!</p> + +<p>This account of George's does not, I acknowledge, exactly agree with the +published narrative of that unfortunate event, nor does his age agree +with the dates. Only a few years elapsed between the time of Cook and +Marion, yet he declares himself to have been a child at the death of the +navigator, and a man at the murder of the latter; but as it was voluntary +on his part to give me the above detail, and even if he were not present +himself, he most probably had the facts from one who was, I thought it +worth inserting, as tending to throw light on one of the most melancholy +events which ever took place on these coasts.</p> + +<p>George also related to me the dreadful tragedy of the ship Boyd, and, +horrible as these relations were, I felt a particular interest, almost +amounting to pleasure, in hearing them related by an eye-witness; one who +had been an actor in those bloody scenes which I had before read of: +narratives which from my very childhood had always possessed particular +charms for me; and at this time I was not only looking on the very spot +the hero of my imagination, Cook, had trod, but was hearing the tale from +one who had actually seen him; and was listening to every particular +concerning the transactions of Marion and his men, as though they had +just taken place.</p> + +<p>Even in the dreadful destruction of the Boyd, George laid the blame +entirely on the English, and spoke with great bitterness of the +ill-treatment of Philip, the native chief, who came as passenger in the +ship. He described and mimicked his cleaning shoes and knives; his being +flogged when he refused to do this degrading work; and, finally, his +speech to his countrymen when he came on shore, soliciting their +assistance in capturing the vessel, and revenging his ill-treatment. Over +and over again our friend George, having worked up his passion by a full +recollection of the subject, went through the whole tragedy. The scene +thus portrayed was interesting although horrible. No actor, trained in +the strictest rules of his art, could compete with George's vehemence of +action. The flexibility of his features enabled him to vary the +expression of each passion; and he represented hatred, anger, horror, and +the imploring of mercy so ably that, in short, one would have imagined he +had spent his whole life in practising the art of imitation.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXXIV"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXXIV</h2> + +<h3>THE MAORI VIEW OF CHRISTIANITY</h3> + +<p>I frequently conversed with George upon the subject of religion, and from +what he told me I found that the natives had not formed the slightest +idea of there being a state of future punishment. They refuse to believe +that the good Spirit intends to make them miserable after their decease. +They imagine all the actions of this life are punished here, and that +every one when dead, good or bad, bondsman or free, is assembled on an +island situated near the North Cape, where both the necessaries and +comforts of life will be found in the greatest abundance, and all will +enjoy a state of uninterrupted happiness. A people of their simple +habits, and possessing so little property, have but few temptations to +excesses of any kind, excepting the cruelties practised by them in war, +in which they fancy themselves perfectly justified, and the tyranny +exercised by them over their slaves, whom they look upon as mere +machines. There is, in fact, but little crime among them, for which +reason they cannot imagine any man wicked enough to deserve eternal +punishment. This opinion of theirs we saw an illustration of one Sunday, +when one of the missionaries paid us a visit.</p> + +<p>The ceremony of all assembling to public worship astonished the natives +greatly, though they always behaved with the utmost decorum when admitted +into the house where the ceremony takes place. On the day in question +the minister endeavoured to explain the sacred mysteries of our religion +to a number of the chiefs who were present. They listened attentively to +all he said, and expressed no doubts as to its truth, only remarking that +"as all these wonderful circumstances happened only in the country of the +white men, the great Spirit expected the white men only to believe them." +The missionary then began to expatiate on the torments of hell, at which +some of them seemed horrified, but others said "they were quite sure such +a place could only be made for the white faces, for they had no men half +wicked enough in New Zealand to be sent there;" but when the reverend +gentleman added with vehemence that "all men" would be condemned, the +savages all burst into a loud laugh, declaring "they would have nothing +to do with a God who delighted in such cruelties; and then (as a matter +of right) hoped the missionary would give them each a blanket for having +taken the trouble of listening to him so patiently."</p> + +<p>I cannot forbear censuring the missionaries, inasmuch as they prevent the +natives, by every means in their power, from acquiring the English +language. They make a point of mastering the native tongue as quickly as +possible, and being able to give their whole time and attention to it, +this is easily accomplished. It is of importance that they should do so, +otherwise they could not carry on the duties of the mission; but by thus +engrossing the knowledge, they obtain great influence over the minds of +the natives. We ourselves were sadly puzzled by a correspondence we had +with two native chiefs, who had been taught to read and write by some of +the Society; but their acquirements being in their native language, were +of no possible use. The difficulty of teaching them English would not +have been greater, and then what stores of information and improvement +might not their instructors have laid open to them. </p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXXV"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXXV</h2> + +<h3>THREATENED INVASION BY HONGI</h3> + +<p>We had passed some months here, and were beginning to look out for the +return of our brig, to take us again into civilised society, when we were +once more thrown into alarm by a threatened invasion. A rumour was +circulated in the village that Hongi, who now lay at the point of death, +had declared that he would make one last glorious effort before he +expired. He was resolved (it was reported) to collect his warriors, +overcome George and his followers, possess himself of Kororarika, and die +upon the conquered territory of his enemy; and I had no doubt that in his +moment of delirium such had been his exclamations, as it had always been +one of his favourite projects. When this was reported to George, he +immediately came to us, and with a most doleful countenance told us we +must take care of ourselves; for, if the report proved true, he was much +too weak to protect us. This certainly caused us some alarm, but, +fortunately for us, a good-sized whaler, the Marianne, was then lying at +anchor in the port, having arrived but a few days previously. The +presence of a ship, all over the world, is felt as a protection to +Europeans, as in case of danger it is a sure place of refuge.</p> + +<p>King George sent off his messengers in every direction to inform his +friends and dependants of the threats uttered against him by Hongi, and +the next day eight large war canoes, filled with warriors, came to his +assistance. They landed at some distance from the beach, and, as it was +late in the day, they would not make their public <i>entree</i> till the next +morning; for the New Zealanders are very fond of giving a grand effect to +all their public meetings. I determined to pay them a visit, to witness +the ceremonies of the night bivouack, which proved a most picturesque +scene, and wild and beautiful in the extreme. Their watch fires glanced +upon the dark skins of these finely formed men, and on their bright +weapons. Some groups were dancing; others were lying round a fire, +chanting wild songs, descriptive of former wars; whilst the graver elders +sat in a circle, and discussed the present state of affairs. All were +delighted to see me, and each group offered to share their fire and +provisions with the "white visitor," as they termed me.</p> + +<p>The next morning these auxiliary forces were seen descending the hills to +our village; and, in order to return the compliment, we all went in our +best array to receive them. There were upwards of two hundred athletic, +naked savages, each armed with his firelock, and marching with the utmost +regularity. The chiefs took the lead. The alarm such a sight might have +created was dissipated by the certainty that they came as our protectors. +I even imagined their countenances were not so ferocious as usual but as +they approached near to our party, the usual sham fight began, +accompanied by the war dance, and although I expected it, and indeed had +come for the purpose of witnessing it, it was conducted with so much fury +on both sides, that at length I became quite horrified, and for some +time could not divest myself of the feeling that our visitors were +playing false, so closely did this mock combat resemble a real one. The +dreadful noises, the hideous faces, the screeching of the women, and the +menacing gestures of each party, were so calculated to inspire terror, +that stouter hearts than mine might have felt fear. When the tumult +subsided, the elder chiefs squatted down, and had the long talk usual on +these occasions.</p> + +<p>I was much delighted to recognise among these chiefs one I had known at +Sydney. During his residence in that city I had permitted him to remain +in my house, and the few presents which he had requested on his return to +his own country I had provided him with, and sent him off delighted and +happy, and never expected to behold him again. The moment I approached he +recollected me, jumped up from the "council," ran up to me, hugged me in +his arms, and rubbed noses so forcibly with me that I felt his friendship +for some time, besides being daubed all over most plentifully with red +ochre, which he, being then on a war-like and ceremonious visit, was +smeared with from head to foot.</p> + +<p>When my savage friend (whom we used to call Mr. Tookee) had overcome his +first burst of delight at seeing me, and had literally left off jumping +for joy, he introduced me to his father, Mr. De Frookee, the chief of his +tribe, a very fine specimen of an old New Zealander, who was (I found) +highly respected for his integrity and benevolence. His eyes overflowed +with tears when he heard I was the person who had shown such kindness to +his son at Sydney. I soon felt quite "at home" with the old chief, and +experienced the good effect of having kept my word with this uncultivated +savage. I had, at the time I presented him with the gifts, been much +laughed at by my acquaintances at Sydney for putting myself to such +unnecessary expense; but, from the gratitude he displayed for the +trifling services I had then rendered him, I felt assured he and his +companions would do all in their power to protect me from every danger.</p> + +<p>A long discussion was now carried on, one speaker at a time occupying the +oblong space round which the warriors sat, and the more animated the +debate, the faster ran the speaker to and fro, flourishing his hatchet in +a most dexterous manner. The instant one speaker finishes, another starts +up to answer him; but previous to rising they throw a mat or blanket over +their shoulders, and arrange it most tastefully around them; and, as +their attitudes are all striking and graceful, and a great part of the +figure is left exposed, it forms a study for an artist, well worth his +going many miles to witness, and invariably reminded me of the fine +models of antiquity.</p> + +<p>As a painter, I conceive that this must have been the great secret of the +perfection to which the Greek and Roman sculptors brought their works; as +they constantly contemplated the display of the human form in all its +beauty in their various gymnastic exercises, which enabled them to +transfer to marble such ease and elegance as we, living in an age of +coats and breeches, never shall be able to rival.</p> + +<p>After the important subjects had been settled by the elders, the young +men assembled without their weapons, and began another kind of sham +fight, one grappling with another, till hundreds of them were locked in +each other's arms, and were flung in heaps in every direction. After +they were tired of this pastime, a regular ring was formed, and a +wrestling match began, which was carried on in as regular and fair a +manner as a boxing match in our own country, and as much skill and +cunning were displayed in the art of throwing as the greatest connoisseur +would desire. I was pleased, also, to observe that, whatever happened +(and some most severe throws and blows passed), nothing could disturb +their good humour.</p> + +<p>This party, having remained for seven days on our beach, and not hearing +anything more of our intended invaders, their provisions also becoming +rather scarce, took leave in order to return to their own district, +placing scouts to give them quick intelligence of the movements of the +enemy.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXXVI"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXXVI</h2> + +<h3>ARRIVAL OF A WARSHIP</h3> + +<p>A few days after the departure of this friendly tribe, a "King's ship" of +eighteen guns arrived in the Bay; consequently all our fears of an +immediate invasion were over. No sooner had she cast anchor than our +friend George came to us, expressing the greatest anxiety to visit King +George of England's warship, and requesting we would accompany him, which +we readily agreed to do; and he left us to adorn himself for the +occasion. Soon after he reappeared in great state. A very splendid +war-mat was thrown over his shoulders; his hair was dressed, oiled, and +decorated with feathers, and his person was plentifully covered with red +ochre: he appeared a very fine-looking fellow: his mother, his three +wives, and all his sons and daughters were dressed in equal magnificence, +and accompanied him.</p> + +<p>In this state we went off to visit the vessel; but the moment I came +alongside, I repented my being there, for the rude and churlish manner in +which we were received distressed me considerably. In the first place, an +order was given that none but the chief himself should be allowed to come +on board; consequently his wives and daughters were obliged to remain in +the canoe. The captain spoke only a few words to George, who was allowed +to remain but a few minutes in the cabin; on getting up to take leave, +George took off his fine war-mantle and presented it to the captain; but, +receiving no other covering in return for his gift, he went on shore +naked! The officers of the vessel behaved differently: they conducted us +all down into the gun-room, where they treated us most kindly, and paid +every attention to our friend George, whose dignity was deeply wounded by +the cool and contemptuous behaviour of the captain.</p> + +<p>How greatly is it to be regretted that some arrangements are not made by +our Government at Home, and that there are not orders given to commanders +of ships of war touching here to pay attention to the chiefs, and to make +some trifling presents amongst them; for there never were a people more +anxious to cultivate a friendly intercourse with British subjects than +the inhabitants of New Zealand: and yet there is scarcely a Government +vessel that puts into port here but the natives receive some insult, +though they are sent for the express purpose of supporting the dignity of +the English nation, and to cultivate the amicable feelings of the chiefs.</p> + +<p>When a "King's ship" comes to anchor, the chiefs (with all the glee of +children going to a fair) collect together their wives, children, and +friends, and pay a visit to the "fighting ships," to see King George's +warriors (as they call them): when they come alongside they are kept off +by an armed sentry; and, after a long parley, they are informed the chief +may come, but his family and friends must not. In this case, the natives +generally spit at the vessel, and, uttering execrations on their +inhospitality, return on shore.</p> + +<p>One of the savage chieftains who accompanied us to the vessel in +question, on our way back remarked, "that the white warriors were +<i>afraid</i> of admitting them, though they were unarmed and but a few; while +the warriors in the ships were many, and armed with their great guns."</p> + +<p>Living entirely amongst these people so long as I had done, I felt the +absurdity of such conduct, and the folly of treating them so harshly. If +ever individuals are so situated as to need either the esteem or the +confidence of savages, they must bear with their prying and childish +curiosity, and not be afraid of treating them too kindly; by this means +they become the quietest and gentlest creatures in the world; but, if +treated with contumely, and their wives and families repulsed from your +ship, they become dangerous, vindictive, and cruel neighbours, as many a +dreadful deed which has taken place in this vicinity will fully prove.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXXVII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXXVII</h2> + +<h3>THE WHALERS AND THE MISSIONARIES</h3> + +<p>The South Sea whalers are the ships the natives are the most anxious to +see on their coasts; and it is the crews of those vessels who have, in a +manner, civilised these hardy islanders. Captain Gardiner, of the +Marianne (the vessel now in the harbour), is the oldest person in that +trade; and he informed me, that not longer than twenty years back +scarcely any vessel would dare to touch at New Zealand; and when, from +particular circumstances, they were obliged so to do, they kept their +boarding-nettings up, and kept a strict guard night and day: their fears +arose from a want of knowledge of the disposition of the people. The +vessels frequenting the island use no precautions now: hundreds of +natives are permitted to crowd on board each ship; and no accident has +ever occurred from this mode of treatment. But when a ship of war arrives +here for the first time, the precautions taken are, to arm the row-guard +with cutlasses and pistols, and to harass the crew with constant +watching, while the only enemy that exists is in their own imaginations. +To the courage and enterprise of the commanders of whalers all credit is +due for working the rapid change in these once bloody-minded savages, and +forming safe and commodious harbours for their vessels to refit in: this +have they done in a part of the world lately looked upon with horror. +What credit soever the missionaries may take to themselves, or try to +make their supporters in England believe, every man who has visited this +place, and will speak his mind freely and disinterestedly, must +acknowledge <i>they</i> have had no share in bringing about this change of +character; but, on the contrary, they have done all that in them lay to +injure the reputation of the whaler in the estimation of the natives. +Hitherto they have not succeeded: their want of hospitality and kindness +to their own countrymen raises a strong dislike to them in the minds of +these unsophisticated people. According to their simple notions of right +and wrong, they think the want of hospitality an unpardonable offence, +and that the counsel or advice of a man who shuts his door against his +neighbour is not worthy of being attended to.</p> + +<p>I will give the reader one more anecdote of these men, who are sent out +to set an example of the beauty of the Christian faith to the +unenlightened heathens. A few weeks since, the festival of Christmas took +place; and Englishmen, in whatever part of the world they chance to be, +make a point of assembling together on that day, our recollections then +being associated with "home" and our families, uniting to spend that day +in mutual congratulations and wishes for happiness. For some time +previous to its arrival, the captains of the two whalers and myself had +been deliberating where we should spend this social day; and it was +finally settled that we should cross the bay to Te Puna, a beautiful and +romantic spot, the residence of an intelligent chief, called Warri Pork, +and an Englishman, named Hanson. Near this was a church missionary +establishment; and at this Englishman's house we determined we would +spend the day. The captains of the two whalers then in the harbour +joined our party; and as everyone contributed his share towards our +picnic feast, the joint stock made altogether a respectable appearance.</p> + +<p>We proceeded to Te Puna in two whaleboats: it was a most delightful trip, +the scenery being strikingly beautiful. The village of Ranghe Hue, +belonging to Warri Pork, is situated on the summit of an immense and +abrupt hill: the huts belonging to the savages appeared, in many places, +as though they were overhanging the sea, the height being crowned with a +mighty pah. At the bottom of this hill, and in a beautiful valley, the +cottages of the missionaries are situated, complete pictures of English +comfort, content, and prosperity; they are close to a bright sandy beach: +a beautiful green slope lies in their rear, and a clear and never-failing +stream of water runs by the side of their enclosures. As the boats +approached this lovely spot, I was in an ecstasy of delight: such a happy +mixture of savage and civilised life I had never seen before; and when I +observed the white smoke curling out of the chimneys of my countrymen, I +anticipated the joyful surprise, the hearty welcome, the smiling faces, +and old Christmas compliments that were going to take place, and the +great pleasure it would give our secluded countrymen to meet us, in these +distant regions, at this happy season, and talk of our relatives and +friends in England.</p> + +<p>My romantic notions were soon crushed; our landing gave no pleasure to +these secluded Englishmen: they gave us no welcome; but, as our boats +approached the shore, they walked away to their own dwellings, closed +their gates and doors after them, and gazed at us through their windows; +and during three days that we passed in a hut quite near them, they +never exchanged one word with any of the party. Thus foiled in our hopes +of spending a social day with our compatriots, after our dinner was over +we sent materials for making a bowl of punch up the hill to the chiefs, +and spent the remainder of the day surrounded by generous savages, who +were delighted with our company, and who did everything in their power to +make us comfortable. In the course of the afternoon two of the mission +came up to preach; but the savages were so angry with them for not +showing more kindness to their own countrymen, that none would listen to +them.</p> + +<p>I have visited many of the Roman Catholic missionary establishments; +their priests adopt quite a different line of conduct: they are cheerful +and kind to the savage pagan, and polite and attentive to their European +brethren; they have gained the esteem of those they have been sent to +convert; they have introduced their own language amongst them, which +enables them to have intercourse with strangers; and, however we may +differ in some tenets of religious belief, we must acknowledge the +success of their mission. They have brought nearly the whole of the +Indian population in South America into the bosom of their church; and +their converts form the greater part of the people. Notwithstanding the +numerous church and sectarian missionaries sent from England, I never met +with one Indian converted by them. I have attended mass in an Indian +village; a native priest performed the ceremony, and the whole +congregation (except myself) were of his cast and complexion: and, it is +worthy of remark, that in Peru, and some of the most populous provinces, +a pagan is scarcely to be found.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXXVIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXXVIII</h2> + +<h3>THREATENED WAR</h3> + +<p>We now heard that Tetoro (one of the most powerful chiefs of this part of +the island) had taken offence, and had sent a defiance to King George, +saying he intended coming to seek revenge, accompanied by a strong body +of warriors; and the "herald" who brought this proclamation informed us +that the English settlers were to be attacked and plundered also.</p> + +<p>We had every reason to fear this might prove a more calamitous affair +than any we had yet experienced; as George immediately collected all his +family and dependents, and took his departure for the Kawakawa river (the +residence of De Kookie, the chief who had come to his assistance against +Hongi's attack), leaving behind only a few slaves. Thus a second time +were we left to our own resources on Kororarika Beach. George and his +followers were too much scattered: some were trading with the ships, +others were distributed in various districts, attending to their +agricultural pursuits. Thus separated, each might become an easy prey to +any of the powerful chiefs; but, were they united, they would be too +strong for any of the tribes: unfortunately the hope of gain made them +risk so great a danger. At this period, too, there was not a single +vessel in the bay to protect us. The known partiality of all the tribes +for Europeans was the only consolation we had; and we endeavoured to +cheer each other with this hope, under what in reality might be +considered very appalling circumstances.</p> + +<p>After enduring this state of suspense and anxiety for several days, and +no enemy appearing, we determined to pay a visit to the camp of the +combined army of our friends, which would, at the same time, gratify our +own curiosity, and give them a degree of satisfaction; as it would prove +to them that we were not afraid of venturing amongst them, even in times +of danger. We accordingly prepared the whaleboats to proceed up the +Kawakawa river; and, as I had never been there before, the present +afforded an excellent opportunity for exploring that picturesque spot.</p> + +<p>At the top of the Bay of Islands, two rivers disembogue, the Wye Catte +and the Kawakawa: they are both small but beautiful streams. It was early +in the morning when we started: the dewy mist rose from the unruffled +bosom of the river like the gradual lifting up of a curtain, and, at +length, displayed its lofty sides, covered with immense trees, the +verdure extending to the very edge of the water. All was quiet, +beautiful, and serene; the only sounds which broke the calm were the wild +notes of the tui (or New Zealand blackbird), the splashing of our own +oars, or the occasional flight of a wild duck (or shag), disturbed by our +approach.</p> + +<p>We rowed our boat many miles without seeing the slightest vestige of any +human inhabitants or civilisation: all appeared wild and magnificent as +if just fresh from the hands of nature; and it failed not to lead the +mind up to the contemplation of the Creator. It seemed utterly impossible +to reconcile the idea that such lonely, romantic, and sequestered scenes +could conceal hordes of savage cannibals, or that the tranquility of this +very place would soon be exchanged for the noise and tumult of savage +warfare. We soon reached the village where the coalesced chiefs had taken +up their station: they had fortified their position, and were waiting the +approach of the enemy. No sooner, however, was our arrival known, than +all came running down tumultuously to give us welcome: all business was +laid aside to greet our landing, and we were conducted with great +ceremony into the centre of the camp.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXXIX"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXXIX</h2> + +<h3>CONSTRUCTION OF A PA</h3> + +<p>We found eight hundred warriors, who (to use a sea phrase) were "all at +quarters." The magic pen of Scott might here have been well employed to +describe "The Gathering." The chiefs sat apart from their followers in +deep consultation: we did not approach near enough to hear their +discussion; but it ended by their paying us a high compliment for coming +amongst them. The young and active were busily employed in constructing a +strong stockade fort to annoy the enemy as he approached; others were +preparing their weapons, or practising the use of arms.</p> + +<p>The village itself was an object of extreme interest; and, after +contemplating the war-like preparations of the chiefs, we turned with +pleasure to gaze on the beauty of the surrounding country. In a plain, +surrounded by high hills, with a beautiful stream of water meandering +through it, was situated a group of huts; and many acres of cultivated +ground, neatly fenced and cleared, encircled them. Their harvest, +consisting of Indian corn, potatoes, and kumara, was now ready for +gathering, and all the women were busily occupied. As I from an eminence +looked down upon their labours, I could almost fancy I was in Italy, and +beheld the peasantry at work in their vineyards: but the adjacent camp +and naked warriors soon dissipated the illusion!</p> + +<p>On approaching the village we occasioned quite a commotion: the girls +brought forth baskets filled with cooked kumaras and peaches, while the +men erected a tent to screen us from the rays of the sun: indeed, all +seemed anxious to do something that should prove acceptable to us. We had +brought with us sufficient provision for a good dinner which was soon +cooked, and we invited them to partake of our fare, and a very merry and +noisy group we formed. After our repast, the chief warriors took us round +their camp, and exhibited to us all their means of defence, and the +different works they had thrown up. Where the use of artillery is +unknown, the principles of fortification are simple, and the New +Zealanders seem to possess a clear notion of the art: necessity being +with them the mother of invention.</p> + +<p>In the direction where the approach of the enemy was expected, they had +erected a strong square stockade, to molest the army; while the women and +children retired to the principal fort, which was very strong, and +situated at the summit of the highest hill: it had a breast-work all +round it about five feet high, and a broad ditch beyond that. The +fortress was large enough to contain several hundred men: it had a +spacious glacis in front, and every approach to it was so completely +exposed, that we thought even a body of regular troops, without +artillery, would have found it very difficult to storm; and to the New +Zealand warrior it seemed a wonderful and impregnable work.</p> + +<p>The chief who had the command of this fort was our old acquaintance Kiney +Kiney, a younger brother of King George's, who seemed proud of this +honour, and appeared highly delighted in showing us round, and +explaining everything to us; even condescending to ask our advice as to +any means of adding strength and security to the works. He listened +attentively to all our observations; and if he approved any alteration we +suggested he ordered it instantly to be carried into effect. I noticed a +thicket too near the fort, and told him I thought it might shelter a body +of men, and before I left the pa it was reduced to a heap of ashes. +Sentinels were posted in every direction to give notice of the approach +of an enemy. <i>Mr.</i> Kiney Kiney (as he was sometimes called) was +splendidly apparelled on this occasion: he had, by some means or other, +become possessed of a light infantry sabre, with all its paraphernalia of +belts and buckles; this was girded round his naked body, which gave him a +very gallant air, and, I have no doubt, was the envy and admiration of +all his followers.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XL"></a><h2>CHAPTER XL</h2> + +<h3>A SHAM FIGHT</h3> + +<p>After we had seen and approved all their preparations, we were treated +with a grand review and sham fight: they divided themselves into two +parties; one half the number took their station on a hill, and lay +concealed; the other party crouched on the plains to receive the attack, +all kneeling on one knee, with their eyes fixed on the spot whence they +expected the rush of their pretended enemies. In a moment, the concealed +party burst forth from their ambush, with a tremendous and simultaneous +shout, and the mock battle began with great fury.</p> + +<p>Nothing in nature can be imagined more horrible than the noise they make +on these occasions. I have heard, under circumstances of some peril, the +North American Indian war-whoop; but that is trifling compared with it +and their countenances are hideous beyond description. My principal +astonishment on these occasions was, that they did not actually kill each +other, or, at least, break each other's bones; for they seemed to strike +with all the fury and vigour of a real engagement; but they kept such +exact time, that at a moment's notice they all left off, and began joking +and laughing, except a very few, whom I observed to sneak away to wash +off some bloody witness, or to put a plaster on their broken skin.</p> + +<p>After these military and gymnastic exhibitions, they formed a grand +assembly, and the chiefs, as usual, made long speeches in rotation. This +rude parliament is one of the most beautiful features in savage +government: all public matters are discussed openly, grievances are +complained of, and justice is summarily administered.</p> + +<p>Thus, after spending a pleasant day, we rose to depart, and took an +affectionate leave of our entertainers, who were most anxious that we +should remain longer; but we thought we had better return to Kororarika, +where our property had been left. Most of the chiefs accompanied us to +our boats, and, after exhibiting various testimonies of their friendly +feeling towards us, they suffered us to depart.</p> + +<p>The day following this visit, we were alarmed by the appearance of two +war canoes crossing the bay: we waited their approach with considerable +anxiety: what few valuables we had with us we concealed about our +persons; but, as they neared our beach, our fears subsided, on finding +there were only a few men in each. Three chiefs (unarmed) landed, whom we +found to be Rivers and two of his near kinsmen, the most dreaded persons +of our expected invaders; but they immediately informed us they came on a +mission of peace, and, for that reason, had come to us unattended and +unarmed.</p> + +<p>We were most happy to hear this, and to find hostilities were again +likely to be deferred. Though we well knew the character of these men, +and that they were capable of the most treacherous acts, and the deepest +dissimulation, yet, their thus throwing themselves into our power, with +the olive branch in their hands, was irresistible; and we received them +with all the pomp we were capable of. We ordered a pig to be killed for +the feast, and requested them to remain for that night. In order to do +honour to our noble guests, and credit to our friend and ally King +George, we produced all the luxuries we had; and, in addition to the +pork, piles of pancakes and molasses were devoured: after this we gave +them tea, of which they are very fond; and, over our pipes, in the +evening, we informed them of the preparations the coalesced chiefs had +made for their reception, had their intentions been hostile.</p> + +<p>The next morning they embarked for the camp at Kawakawa, where, I +understood, they had considerable difficulty in arranging the "treaty of +peace": George having been so often alarmed, now that such great +preparations had been effected (as he well know the treacherous character +of his foe), he was unwilling to give up the hopes of conquest; however, +by the advice of the chiefs, it was finally settled amicably. George and +his friends accordingly returned to Kororarika, leaving a strong party at +the pa to finish the fortifications; and, though peace was made, our +party still kept themselves in a posture of defence.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XLI"></a><h2>CHAPTER XLI</h2> + +<h3>RETURN OF THE BRIG.—AN EXCITING INCIDENT</h3> + +<p>We had been expecting with great anxiety the return of our brig; and, +soon after the termination of this affair, we had the pleasure of seeing +her enter the bay, after her cruise from Tongataboo and Tucopea. We found +that, on leaving the Bay of Islands, she had touched at the Thames, or +(as the natives call it) Hauraki, in order to land two chiefs, whom +Captain Dillon had taken thence two years before, and, in the confusion +occasioned by the disembarking, the visiting and congratulations of +friends (the vessel being under weigh), one chief was left on board, who +had not been discovered till all the canoes were out of sight, and there +remained no other alternative for him than to proceed on the whole +voyage.</p> + +<p>This was of no importance as it respected Tongataboo or Tucopea; but, on +his return to Kororarika, it was not only placing him, but all of us, in +a dreadful dilemma! His tribe being at deadly enmity with that of George, +the moment he was seen on deck (which was as soon as the vessel arrived), +George and all the men in the various canoes appeared to grow outrageous: +nothing would convince them but that we were in league with their +enemies, and had brought this spy into their territories from interested +motives; and they seemed resolved upon boarding the brig and executing +vengeance upon the unfortunate victim. To all our remonstrances George +replied, "Any other man than this I would have pardoned; but it was only +last year he killed, and helped to eat, my own uncle, whose death still +remains unrevenged: I cannot allow him to leave my country alive; if I +did, I should be despised for ever."</p> + +<p>I was greatly grieved at the circumstance; but, as I was somewhat of a +favourite with George, I succeeded in convincing him that it arose purely +from accident, and no intention of giving him offence; and he consented +to leave him on board, but cautioned us not to allow him to land. "If I +see him on shore he dies," he repeated several times. It would have been +well for us had we attended to this warning: we did not; and we +accordingly infringed on the customs of his country; thus placing +ourselves in a most perilous situation with the natives, and plainly +showing that the imprudence of our countrymen is invariably the cause of +quarrels and misunderstandings with these islanders.</p> + +<p>Some days having passed since this altercation with George, we thought no +more about it. The brig, from various causes, was certain to remain some +time in this harbour; and, as our New Zealand guest expressed a great +desire to go on shore one day, we consented to his accompanying us. We +had scarcely entered our house, when we had reason to repent the +imprudent step we had taken: all the natives were in commotion; +messengers were sent off to George to acquaint him with the circumstance, +and soon after we saw him, attended by all his relations, accoutred for +war; that is, quite naked, their skins oiled and painted, and armed with +muskets. Fury was in their looks and gestures as they hastened towards +our residence. We had scarcely time to shut and fasten our door, when +they made a rush to force it; and we had a severe struggle to keep them +out. At one period their rage became so ungovernable that we expected +every instant they would fire on us for preventing their entrance. The +man who was the cause of all this violence crept into our bedroom, and +kept out of sight; but he did not, at any period of the disturbance, +exhibit the least sign of fear, so accustomed are they from childhood to +these deadly frays.</p> + +<p>When the natives found we would not give up the man, but that they must +murder us before they could accomplish their revenge, the disappointment +rendered them nearly frantic. Our situation was most critical and +appalling; and nothing can be a more convincing proof of the influence +the Europeans have obtained over them, than that, at such a moment, they +should have refrained from setting fire to or pulling down the house, and +sacrificing every one of us. George again remonstrated with us, assuring +us it was his sacred duty to destroy this man, now he was in his +territory; a duty which, he said, he owed to the memory of his murdered +relations, and which must be performed, even though he should sacrifice +his "good English friends." He cautioned us not to stand between him and +his enemy, who must die before the sun set, pointing, at the same time, +to that luminary, and ordering his slaves to kindle a large fire to roast +him on. Finally, he and his friends planted themselves all round the +house to prevent the escape of their victim. Thus were we environed with +fifty or sixty well armed and exasperated savages.</p> + +<p>Our imprudence had given us no other alternative than either to give up +the man, who had put himself under our protection, or still to defend him +at the risk of our own lives: we instantly adopted the latter course. +Fortunately for us, a whaler was lying in the harbour, and a party of her +men were then on shore in the neighbourhood procuring water. We had sent +to them to explain the nature of our situation, and we saw them coming to +our assistance, though the numbers of natives at this time assembled +totally precluded all chance of our getting off by force; and a variety +of schemes were suggested as to how we should save the man's life, and +get clear of this difficulty, without sacrificing the good opinion we +were held in by the natives.</p> + +<p>We were well aware of the great importance it was to George to continue +on friendly terms with the English vessels touching here, as they not +only afforded him various sources of considerable profit, but the +intercourse gave him great importance in the eyes of his countrymen; and +we determined to make this circumstance a means of saving the man's life, +as we suspected that a threat of removing the seat of trade would soon +make him compromise his revenge for his interest.</p> + +<p>We therefore sent him a formal message, that, if he was resolved to kill +his enemy in our house, we had determined not to prevent him, but that we +would not stay to witness such a cruelty; and that we should immediately +remove every thing we possessed on board ship, leave the Bay of Islands, +and seek the protection and shelter of some other chief; and, if he +compelled us to do so, no other British ship would ever be seen at +Kororarika.</p> + +<p>We accordingly ordered the ship's boats ashore, and our things were +quickly conveyed into them. I trembled when I looked on the natives, and +saw the rage depicted on their countenances; and I, trusting in +Providence to avert from me the dreadful death with which I saw myself +threatened, prepared myself for some fatal catastrophe. Tumultuous +discussions ensued, and it at length became difficult for the elders to +restrain the impetuosity of the younger chiefs. Fortunately for us, their +vehement speeches soon produced a violent feud amongst themselves. Mutual +upbraidings took place: each accused the other of being the cause of +quarrel, and the consequent loss of the white men. This was precisely the +state of things we wished for; and, while we were waiting the return of +the last boat, a messenger came from the elder chiefs, to propose an +amicable adjustment of the affair. The chiefs promised that, if we would +reland our goods and remain with them, the man we protected should go +without molestation on board the brig; but, if we persevered in leaving +them, the man should be killed before our eyes. This was what we +expected; and though I really now wished to leave them, being quite tired +of these perpetual broils, we assented, in order that the man's life +might be spared When they found we agreed to their proposal, they +retreated out of sight, thereby carefully avoiding polluting their eyes +by looking upon their enemy.</p> + +<p>No sooner had they disappeared than I visited the poor fellow who had +been the cause of all this disturbance: he seemed half dead with anxiety; +but I soon revived him with the information that all was settled +amicably; and we lost no time in getting him off, which we safely +accomplished, though, as the boat which conveyed him left the shore, a +bullet whizzed close by me, aimed, no doubt, by some young fiery chief, +who had concealed himself in the bushes for that purpose.</p> + +<p>During this transaction I witnessed the natural kindness of heart and +disinterested tenderness of the female sex: no matter how distressing the +circumstance or appalling the danger, they are, in all countries, the +last to forsake man. While the enraged chiefs were yelling outside our +house, and all our exertions could scarcely prevent them from making a +forcible entry, all the women were sitting with, and trying to comfort +the unhappy cause of this calamity. They had cooked for him a delicate +dinner, brought him fruit, and were using every means by which they could +keep up his spirits and buoy up his hopes, confidently assuring him the +white men would not yield him up to his ferocious foes. Notwithstanding +all their exertions, he was miserable, till informed by me of his safety; +and I received the warmest thanks, and even blessings, from his "fair" +friends, as if I had conferred upon each a personal favour.</p> + +<p>The man being now in safety, we determined to demand satisfaction for the +affront which had been put upon us, and we sent George word we could not +again receive him into our house unless he made an ample apology for his +behaviour, painting in strong colours how deeply our feelings had been +wounded, and how much this indignity had lowered us in the esteem of all +our acquaintances.</p> + +<p>After some consultation among their leading men upon the subject of our +message, King George presented himself at the door of our hut, and, in +the most humble manner, surrendered his musket; and shortly after his +brother Kiney Kiney did the same. Thus we gained our point, and received +both payment and apologies for their violent behaviour. Friendship being +thus restored, we soon gave them back their muskets, to their infinite +surprise and satisfaction.</p> + +<p>On reflection, I felt quite convinced that the natives liked us the +better for what we had done: it afforded them also a lesson of humanity, +for they all well knew we had no other object in view when we stood +forward to defend the poor fellow, who had relied upon our promise of +protecting him. Several chiefs told us that they greatly admired our +principles, and should always feel themselves quite safe with men like +us, who would risk their own lives rather than break their word, or +desert a friend in the hour of danger.</p> + +<p>At the close of this eventful day we received another token of peace, +which was in its manner simple and affecting, and not such as could have +been expected from a nation of savages. A procession of young girls +approached our door, each bearing a basket: some were filled with nicely +cooked potatoes, others with various fruits and flowers, which they set +down before us, chanting, in a low voice, a song in praise of our recent +exploit; a man bearing a very large fish closed the procession; he +repeated the song also. We were informed that these presents had been +sent by King George as a ratification of friendship, for the New +Zealanders never think a reconciliation perfected till you have again +eaten and drank with them.</p> + +<p>Two important conclusions may be drawn from the termination of this +affair: first, that if a spirited interference takes place on the part of +the Europeans, murder may be at times prevented, as we actually rescued +a mortal foe from the vengeance of an exasperated enemy; and, secondly, +their efforts to restore amity proves their extreme desire to have white +people settle amongst them.</p> + +<p>About a week after this event we witnessed a most extraordinary ceremony, +which partook more of the ludicrous than the horrible, though I have no +doubt it was regarded by the natives as a most solemn affair. For some +days we had been honoured by the presence of a great priest, or one of +their chief tabooers; he came for the purpose of discussing with the +chiefs the affairs of the nation, particularly the approaching war with +the tribe of the Thames; and the day set apart for the discussion of the +principal points was ushered in by a rich feast, not of pork nor fish, +nor even the kumara, but of two old, sturdy, large dogs!</p> + +<p>I was much surprised on rising one morning to see Kiney Kiney, with +several chiefs of the highest rank, stripped, and performing the offices +of the meanest slave (the washing the feet of the pilgrims by cardinals +and persons of rank in Rome came instantly to my remembrance). These +chiefs were making a fire and cooking. I was still more astonished, on +approaching them, to find the nature of the food they were singeing and +scraping. This bow-wow meat they were preparing after the fashion of +pork: pigs being the only quadruped they have ever seen cooked, they of +course are not acquainted with any other way of dressing the animal +creation, and a sad bungling job they made of it; for the dogs were old +and tough, and the hair adhered most pertinaciously to the skin, and in +many places would not come off.</p> + +<p>There were only five persons allowed to partake of this delicious meal, +which was, as well as the five partakers, strictly taboo'd for the whole +of that day: and we strongly recommended them to hold a similar feast +every day, until they had cleared the country of these canine nuisances, +the dogs being the greatest pests they have.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XLII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XLII</h2> + +<h3>WAR-LIKE EXPEDITION TO THE THAMES</h3> + +<p>One morning I was roused out of a sound sleep by continued discharges of +musketry from a number of war canoes. I jumped up instantly in alarm; but +I soon discovered them to be Atoi and his party, who had been absent +about two months on a war-like expedition to the Thames, and they were now +returning successful.</p> + +<p>I had witnessed the departure of this expedition, and considered it in +the light of a reconnoitring party. I could not make out what the real +object was they had been in search of; but, wherever they had been, they +had been victorious, for they now returned with quantities of plunder, +human heads, human flesh, and many prisoners! After the dance and sham +fight had been duly gone through, they proceeded to land their cargo of +spoil. First came a group of miserable creatures, women and children, +torn by violence from their native homes, henceforth to be the slaves of +their conquerors; some were miserably wounded and lacerated, others +looked half-starved, but all seemed wretched and dejected.</p> + +<p>The women of Kororarika, with their usual humanity, instantly surrounded +them, and endeavoured to console them, and then shed abundance of tears +over them. I enquired of one of the warriors what they had done with the +male prisoners: he coolly replied, they had all been eaten, except some +"titbits," which had been packed up in the baskets and brought on shore, +in order to regale particular friends and favourites!</p> + +<p>They had also brought with them several heads, which they have the art of +preparing in their native ovens, so as not to disfigure the countenance +nor injure the figure tatoo'd upon them. One of these, the skull of a +distinguished chief, seemed to afford them amazing delight. Most of our +people had known him well, and several of his near relations were +present: but cruel war seemed to have eradicated every feeling of +humanity; for all appeared to contemplate this ghastly object with great +satisfaction. These heads were decorated profusely with yellow and red +ribbons, and with white feathers: they were then stuck upon short poles, +and placed, with great ceremony, in front of the old Queen Turero's +house; who, sitting at the door, received this token of respect with +approval and condescension.</p> + +<p>The group altogether formed an interesting picture of savage manners, in +which ferocity was strongly blended with humanity, for their respect and +devotion to the old sybil was manifested as feelingly as their hatred +towards those whom they call their enemies: in fact, the young warrior +chiefs presenting to her (as was the case with several) their first +spoils of conquest, reminded me of young lions bringing part of the +spoils of the chase to their aged dam.</p> + +<p>In this affray only a few of Atoi's party had been wounded, and +twenty-five of the enemy had been killed. It was a fortunate circumstance +for the wretched prisoners that none of the conquering party had been +killed; for, if that had been the case, there would have been a dreadful +slaughter of the captives on their arrival at the village, an act of +cruelty never dispensed with. This sight I dreaded I should encounter +when I went to witness the disembarkation; but, hoping that my presence +might be some restraint upon their barbarities, I awaited the result with +as much firmness as I was master of. </p> + +<a name="image-8"><!-- Image 8 --></a> +<center> +<img src="img/img8.jpg" width="600" height="339" alt="Old Pa and Whalers at Bay of Islands." title="Old Pa and Whalers at Bay of Islands."> +</center> + +<h5>Old Pa and Whalers at Bay of Islands.</h5> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XLIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XLIII</h2> + +<h3>VISITS OF WHALERS</h3> + +<p>Two South Sea whalers were at this time lying in the bay: the Anne, from +London, a full ship; and the Lynx, from Sydney. Since I have been living +here, five vessels of this description have visited us; and many others +would have touched here but for the want of proper regulations, and a +dread of the dispositions of the natives. There being here no +representatives of the British Government, the crews of whalers are often +involved in disputes with the natives. This want of Government support +has also frightened other vessels away; their commanders preferring going +on to Port Jackson, where they half ruin themselves by the unavoidable +expenses they incur. Even when their vessels have anchored here, the +thoughtlessness and eccentricity of this class of men, when they are +under no restraint or control, has sometimes not only led to disputes +with the natives, but with each other, which eventually have proved +equally detrimental. In short, New Zealand is a place of such vast +importance to so many lucrative branches of British trade, that it must +be well worthy the speedy attention of our Government at home.</p> + +<p>We spoke frequently to our friend George, as well as to several other of +their powerful chiefs, respecting the erection of a small fort with a +British garrison, and of permanently hoisting the English flag. They +always expressed the utmost delight at the idea; and, from all I have +seen of them, I feel convinced it would prove a most politic measure. +George (who had visited Port Jackson) said: "This country is finer than +Port Jackson; yet the English go and settle there. Our people are much +better than the black natives of New South Wales, and yet you English +live amongst them in preference to us."</p> + +<p>The ship Anne, Captain Gray, was out three years, and during that period +she never entered a civilised port. She had touched twice at this bay, +and had cruised four months on the coast of Japan, off Timor, through the +Sandwich and Friendly Islands, and passed several times over the Pacific +Ocean, in order to obtain a cargo of sperm oil, which she at length +accomplished; and was at this time here to refit for her voyage home to +England round Cape Horn, having picked up most of her cargo off this +port.</p> + +<p>For twelve years past, notwithstanding all the disadvantages, this has +been the favourite resort for ships in the above-mentioned trade. Here, +surrounded with savages and cannibals, they heave down their vessels, +land the cargoes and stores, and carry on work, both on board and on +shore, in tolerable security. The safety of the harbour, the facility of +wooding and watering, the supplies of pigs and potatoes, tempt them to +run the risk of placing themselves in the power of capricious and +barbarous people.</p> + +<p>It has been imagined that the residence of missionaries would have the +effect of civilising the natives, and adding to the safety of ships +touching here; but experience fully proves the fallacy of such an +expectation. These people, abstracted by their own gloomy reflections, +look with contempt on all who are in the pursuit of "worldly wealth"; and +regard the arrival of a whaler as an enemy coming to interfere with the +spiritual interests of "their flock," as they term the inhabitants, +though I never yet saw one proselyte of their converting.</p> + +<p>They never visit a whaler except on a Sunday, and then it is to beg for +the benefit of their society. It cannot, therefore, be expected that much +sympathy can exist between parties, where the cold formality of one +excites the contempt and disgust of the other.</p> + +<p>The ship Anne, of which I have formerly spoken, arrived here lately from +Wahoo, one of the Sandwich Islands, which possesses the advantage of a +British consul. The pacific disposition and orderly government of the +natives do not require a British garrison, or any war-like force; and of +the excellent effects produced by this representation of our Government +Captain Gray speaks with admiration and enthusiasm. The harbours were +crowded with shipping; houses, nay, even streets, were beginning to +appear; the savage character of the people was gradually subsiding into +industrious and peaceful occupations; and comfort and prosperity were +spreading their benign influence over the whole island: yet Wahoo is not +nearly so well situated as a rendezvous for South Sea whalers as New +Zealand; at least so I have been informed by all the captains of those +ships who have conversed with me on the subject.</p> + +<p>It is rather a remarkable and novel circumstance that the natives, who +have been now for fourteen or fifteen years in close intercourse and +carrying on traffic with Europeans, should not, in the course of that +period, understand the nature and value of money; a laughable instance of +which occurred to us a few days since. A native came to our house with a +serious countenance and business-like manner, and said he wished to +purchase a musket: we asked to see what he had brought in exchange for +one, when, with great ceremony, he produced a copper penny piece in the +way of payment. The poor fellow had, doubtless, seen some one pass a +doubloon, and had mistaken his penny for one; as a doubloon is about the +price given for a musket in our regulated list of charges. We, of course, +refrained from laughter; but he was quite astonished and mortified when +he was made to understand we could not trade with him. He took a stroll +round the beach, offering his penny, by way of barter, to every white man +he met, but everywhere with equally bad success.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XLIV"></a><h2>CHAPTER XLIV</h2> + +<h3>VISIT OF TWO SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS</h3> + +<p>When our brig left Tucopea she brought away two natives of that island, +who had most earnestly entreated the captain to take them off, and leave +them upon any other land he pleased, as, according to their statement, +Tucopea was so overstocked with inhabitants that it was scarcely possible +to find subsistence; and the scarcity of food had become so general, that +parents destroyed their children rather than witness their sufferings +from famine. Captain Kent, therefore, from motives of compassion, +received them on board his ship; and, not having touched at any inhabited +spot, brought them with him here. Their extraordinary appearance excited +a great deal of surprise, both among Europeans and New Zealanders. They +appeared simple, timid creatures, though stout and comely, but their hair +was unlike anything I had before beheld, as in length it reached below +the waist, and was so abundantly thick as completely to conceal their +faces. By some curious chemical process which the natives of Tucopea have +discovered, they render their hair a bright sulphur colour; and, as this +mass of yellow hangs over their faces and shoulders, they bear the most +striking resemblance to the lion monkeys of the Brazils.</p> + +<p>These poor creatures, upon landing, shook with fear, and trembled greatly +when they beheld the New Zealanders, whose character for cannibalism had +reached even their remote island: when our friend George went up to them, +and lifted up (in order to examine closely) the curious mass of hair in +which they were enveloped, they burst into a passionate fit of tears, and +ran up to us for protection. The New Zealanders, with characteristic +cunning, perceiving the horror they had created, tormented them still +more cruelly, by making grotesque signs, as if they were about to +commence devouring them; and, at the same time (like most savages), +evincing the most sovereign contempt for them, from their apparent +pusillanimity.</p> + +<p>After they had been some days on shore, we had a very diverting scene +with them, which exhibited strongly the great difference there is in the +nature of the two classes of savages we now had such opportunities of +observing. I had brought my violin from Sydney, on which I used to play +occasionally. The New Zealanders generally expressed the greatest dislike +to it; and my companions used to rally me much on the subject, saying it +was not that the savages did not like music, but it was my discordant +playing that frightened them away, which might be true. It was, however, +a useful discovery for us all, as I often took that method of civilly +driving them out of our house when we grew tired of their company. But +when I began to play before the Tucopeans, the effect it had instantly +upon them was ludicrous in the extreme. They sprang up, and began dancing +most furiously; at the same time, so waving their heads about as to keep +their long hair extended at its fullest length: as I played faster, they +quickened their pace. A lively Scotch reel seemed to render them nearly +frantic; and when I ceased playing, they threw themselves down on the +floor quite exhausted, and unable to articulate a word. I have observed +(generally speaking) that savages are not much affected by music; but +these two Tucopeans were excited to a most extraordinary degree.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XLV"></a><h2>CHAPTER XLV</h2> + +<h3>THE DEATH OF HONGI</h3> + +<p>We at length received authentic intelligence of the death of the +celebrated Hongi. Finding his dissolution fast approaching, he convened a +meeting of all the neighbouring chiefs; and as many as could reach the +spot in time attended. The wounded warrior expired, surrounded by the men +he had so frequently led to battle and conquest. After the numerous and +desperate risks he had run, the many encounters he had sustained with +various enemies, it appeared extraordinary to us Europeans that he should +die quietly in his hut. It is the custom to keep a guarded and mysterious +silence relating to the subjects which are spoken of by a dying chief. I +questioned several who had attended Hongi: all spoke with the greatest +solemnity of his last moments. One sentence (uttered by him) was all I +could obtain after much manoeuvring, and that was spoken but a few +minutes before he breathed his last, which was, that "Shulitea (viz., our +friend George) would not live one week longer than himself"; but, as our +patron was in perfect health at the time, and all seemed peaceful around +him, I only laughed at the improbability of the prophecy being fulfilled.</p> + +<p>The natives of New Zealand pay the greatest respect to courage and +war-like talents: these were the only distinguishing characteristics of +Hongi; yet, by possessing these, he was more feared, and had a greater +number of followers, than any other chief in the island. His hereditary +possessions were but small, and his name was little known; yet his +undaunted courage, his skill, and success in many sanguinary battles, +made him, at length, a most powerful chief, and obtained for him that +which is considered wealth in this country, namely, an immense number of +slaves. In his last moments he was attended by more men of rank than had +ever before assembled to witness the dissolution of a warrior, and this +is considered the greatest proof of attention and respect one chieftain +can show towards another.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XLVI"></a><h2>CHAPTER XLVI</h2> + +<h3>A TRIBAL CONFLICT</h3> + +<p>Our brig now sailed for Hokianga to take in a cargo of planks; and my +friend, Mr. Shand, being tired of wandering, accompanied her; but I, +being still anxious to procure more sketches of this interesting country, +determined to remain as long as possible, and to take one more walk +across the island, and join the brig by the time she was loaded. I was +preparing to start on my last pedestrian tour, when a chain of events +occurred which threw all the tribes into confusion. Bloodshed and +devastation stared me in the face from all quarters; and from the state +of security I had imagined myself to be in, I was roused to behold myself +beset with difficulties; to crown which, our brig, which would have been +a place of safety and refuge, was now on the opposite side of the island.</p> + +<p>Arising from a trifling circumstance, which was partly caused by us, +though innocently, Pomare's only son had lost his life; and, as is usual +among savage tribes, the severest retaliation soon took place.</p> + +<p>By relating the particulars, the reader will perceive how easily the +war-cry is raised among these turbulent savages.</p> + +<p>Pomare's only surviving son. Tiki, was a very finely-formed, handsome +young man, of twenty years of age, and he had made an arrangement with a +captain of a ship here to supply him with a certain number of hogs. +Accordingly, accompanied by a party of his friends, he started into the +interior for the purpose of collecting them. In making his selection, he +not only proceeded to drive off some of his own, but actually laid claim +to, and began marching away with, some belonging to his neighbours. The +right owners remonstrated with him in vain. He, being an insolent, +over-bearing young fellow, persisted in his unjust claims, and set them +all at defiance. They were compelled to yield up their property, as his +tribe was a most powerful one; and Tiki was driving away the stolen hogs +in triumph, when a sudden stop was put to his predatory career. Finding +words were of no avail to induce the young man to restore the swine, one +of the injured party had recourse to a musket. A bullet, aimed from +behind a tree, killed Tiki on the spot; but from whose hand it came could +only be conjectured. The greatest confusion instantly took place. His +companions, being well armed, the war-cry was immediately raised; and the +fray becoming general, seven more lives were lost.</p> + +<p>When the account of this melancholy affair reached our beach, everyone +flew to arms, even all the women, for the young man was a general +favourite. The war-cry spread in every direction. "Here," they exclaimed, +"is the last of the Pomare family killed treacherously, a warrior related +to and connected with every chief of consequence in the country, and a +nephew of the great Shulitea." The cry for blood and revenge was +universal. I must confess that, added to the danger it placed me in, I +was much shocked when I heard of the fate of poor Tiki, for he was one of +our particular friends, and had passed many an evening in our hut. I had +taken leave of him only the day before, when he had set out, full of +health and spirits, on this hog expedition, which had terminated thus +fatally.</p> + +<p>The death of this young man excited the highest indignation in the minds +of his countrymen, as well as in those of his numerous intimate friends +and relations; for a report was industriously circulated that he had +fallen by the hands of a slave. This was considered by his tribe as a +degradation infinitely worse than the murder itself. The offended chiefs +assembled on our beach, with all their followers, armed: and none +appeared more indignant at the transaction than our friend George, who, +with his brother Kiney Kiney, placed themselves at the head of the party, +to revenge the insult which had been offered them.</p> + +<p>The night before they started on this expedition, George spent the +evening with us. He was in particularly low spirits, and said he did not +at all like the business he was going upon: but, as he was the nearest +relation of the deceased, and the eldest of the tribe, he went in hopes +of being able to prevent a great effusion of blood, and also to restrain +the impetuosity of the young men. Little did we then think he would be +the first victim; although his unusual depression of mind brought to my +remembrance the prophecy of Hongi, and, spite of my endeavours to banish +my forebodings, I felt convinced that the prediction would in all +probability be fulfilled.</p> + +<p>Three days had elapsed from the time the avenging party had gone on their +mission, when, at midnight, a messenger, faint and nearly exhausted, +arrived on our beach with the following dreadful intelligence; and that +night no other sounds were heard than those of agony and woe, the yelling +of women, and the shrieks of slaves.</p> + +<p>The substance of the man's information was, that George and the offending +party had met; but, as several days had passed since the murder of their +friend, their feelings were in some degree appeased, and they had +contented themselves with a general plunder of whatever property their +enemies possessed. They had spared their lives, and the outrage was +considered as atoned for. The chiefs were on their return home, laden +with spoil, when, like other coalesced armies, disagreements began to +take place among themselves, and discord long smothered, broke out in +every quarter of the camp.</p> + +<p>George, the principal person of their party, was the one marked to be +dissatisfied with. All were jealous of him, in consequence of his +possessions at Kororarika giving him such a decided advantage over every +other tribe, by his trade and intercourse with Europeans. It is probable, +also, that as the other tribes went forth with an intention to fight, +they were resolved not to be disappointed, and therefore determined to +create a feud among themselves, rather than return home devoid of the +pleasures or the trophies of a combat.</p> + +<p>Some irritating language had been uttered by both sides, when an accident +of a fatal nature took place, which produced an instantaneous and general +appeal to arms. At the close of the day a halt was made, as usual, and +each party began erecting their temporary huts to pass the night in. One +of George's wives, assisted by a little boy, his nephew, was busily +engaged in constructing one; arms and baggage of every description being +strewed about in all directions. At this period a lad took up one of +George's muskets, and began to play with it; but not understanding the +management of it, he, by his injudicious handling, accidentally +discharged the piece, and killed both the wife and nephew, the ball +passing through both their bodies.</p> + +<p>The sensation produced by this unfortunate accident may readily be +conceived. As the woman who was killed was related to the tribe who had +been disputing with George all day, her death furnished an ostensible +motive for open war; and before the real cause of the accident could be +explained, another shot was fired, which wounded a chief of the name of +Moo-de-wy in the thigh. This proved the signal for a general fight: each +party ran to their arms, ranged themselves under their different leaders, +and a general discharge of muskets immediately took place.</p> + +<p>Almost at the beginning of the combat George received a shot, which broke +both his legs: his brother and friends endeavoured to support him in +their arms. It being then nearly dark, added much to the confusion, as it +was difficult to distinguish friend from foe; indeed, so sudden had been +the onset, that many could scarcely have been aware of the cause of the +contest. But our unhappy friend, who seemed particularly marked out in +this unfortunate affray, soon after received another bullet, which struck +him on the throat, and terminated his existence; thus dying before a week +had passed since the death of his rival Hongi. I heard from one of his +friends who supported him in his last moments, that he died like a hero: +finding both his legs were broken, and that consequently he was totally +unable to move, he begged those friends who were about him to leave him +to his fate, and either again enter the fight, or make their escape +while they yet had time. He then gave his musket to one, took off his +mantle to present to another, and while thus in the act of exhorting his +friends and distributing amongst them his tokens of regard, he received +his death-wound, and expired without a groan. When George fell, a general +flight took place; and though the engagement had lasted but a short time, +great numbers had fallen on both sides.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XLVII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XLVII</h2> + +<h3>THE DEATH OF KING GEORGE AND ITS CONSEQUENCES</h3> + +<p>This news caused mourning and lamentation along our beach, and filled all +the Europeans with dismay. We could not calculate the extent of the +injury we might receive, but felt certain we should be considerable +sufferers in some way or other. The light of day seemed to add to, rather +than to diminish, the moans of George's faithful subjects. The violent +sobbings from every dwelling were most dismal. Groups were scattered +about, forming small crying parties, and cutting their skins deeply with +knives and pieces of broken glass; in short, nothing was heard but +yelling and groaning, and nothing was seen but streams of blood!</p> + +<p>But however shocked I might feel by the train of accidents and deaths +which had made such cruel havoc amongst my friends, and notwithstanding +my sincere grief and regret for the fate of poor George, who was a most +humane and intelligent chief, and particularly kind to all the English; +the predicament in which I was now placed demanded all my energies, for I +felt that I stood in a situation of great danger.</p> + +<p>I have before noticed their barbarous custom, on the death of a chief, of +plundering his family and friends. As we had always been considered as a +part of George's family, living under his protection, adopted by him, +and admitted into his tribe, I entertained great suspicions that we also +should be sufferers by the general plunder about to take place: besides, +I was so circumstanced as to be obliged to cross the country with all my +goods, and my route lay through the territories of all those chiefs who +had been fighting against George; and I was at no loss to guess in what +light they would regard me. Depending, too securely, on the general +tranquility, I had not sent my luggage by sea, as I might have done, and +which would have saved me great anxiety, as I should have ventured alone +without fear, but could not manage to carry what I possessed; and to +engage any to convey them was an impossibility, for the moment I made the +proposition to any (even the meanest of the slaves) to accompany me, they +ran off into the bush, nor could any entreaty, presents, or threats +induce them to venture with me; so, for security, I removed all the +property I had, and went with it on board the Marianne, whaler.</p> + +<p>For three days after the death of George, all gave themselves up to +grief; no work was done, and not an individual was to be seen but in an +agony of tears. I began to feel strangely affected with melancholy +myself, when, on the fourth morning, a scene of bustle took place, and +low spirits were banished by tumult, noise, and confusion.</p> + +<p>At six o'clock on that morning we discovered upwards of twenty sail of +war canoes, crowded with armed warriors, coming into the bay. What their +intentions were we could not imagine; but for fear of the worst, the +ships in the harbour shotted their guns, and when the canoes were abreast +of us, we fired a blank one over their heads. On this they all stopped, +and we saw some stir amongst them: at length a very small canoe left the +main body, and pulled directly towards us; it contained the chief persons +of the expedition: they came on board, and assured us they meant no harm +to any persons; they were merely some of the late George's friends, who +were going to pay a visit of condolence to his relations; and, after +making a most hearty breakfast with us, they went on shore, and we +accompanied them.</p> + +<p>Whether the account they gave of themselves was correct, or the reverse, +we knew not at the time; but we felt assured their intentions were not +hostile towards us Europeans, and their quarrels with each other we were +determined not to interfere in. We soon discovered their falsehood, for +George's eldest daughter informed me that amongst the chiefs who landed +with us were several of the most inveterate foes of her father, and that +they were only restrained from committing the most dreadful outrages, and +carrying off all her relations as slaves, by witnessing the many friends +of George by whom they were surrounded. The day was spent in savage +dancing, yelling, making speeches, and debating as to who the proper +person was to succeed George in his dignities: several times I thought +the affair would end in blows. George's relation, Rivers, made great +exertions "to keep the peace," and finally, by force of argument, +succeeded. It was at length unanimously agreed that Kiney Kiney was to +succeed his brother, and that Rivers should take the command until the +time of Kiney Kiney's mourning for the loss of George should be +completed.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XLVIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XLVIII</h2> + +<h3>DEPARTURE FROM BAY OF ISLANDS</h3> + +<p>After these important matters were amicably disposed of, I made a sign to +Rivers, and, separating him from the crowd, I explained to him the nature +of my situation, and asked his assistance in getting me safely over to +Hokianga. He replied, there would certainly be great danger in attempting +it; but I soon discovered that he magnified the difficulties in order to +increase his demand for payment, for even the greatest chiefs have here +their price. He said (and I had every reason to think he was correct) +that I ran no risk of being molested by any chiefs, like himself, who +would always protect rather than molest every European; but that the +country being in such a state of commotion, in consequence of the late +events, it was full of runaway slaves, who always took advantage of such +times to make their escape; and if I chanced to fall in with any of them, +I should be exposed to great peril: "However (he added), keep up your +spirits; I have two confidential slaves, who shall conduct you over, and +carry your luggage, if you will make me a present of a stocking full of +powder, a bag of small shot, and a powder-horn." He also proposed, as he +himself was going to the Kirikiri, and thence to a village in the +interior, to meet a large assemblage of chiefs, in order to talk over the +late tragical events, that I should journey the first part of my way +with him, in his own canoe.</p> + +<p>Accordingly, after having made preparations for my departure, I took +leave of all my friends at the Bay of Islands, both civilised and savage. +I must say I felt considerable regret when I found myself really going to +take final leave of several native families, with whom I had been on +terms of intimacy since my residence here, from whom I had received many +proofs of personal regard, and whom, I felt convinced, I should never +meet or hear of more; none I regretted parting with more than the family +of poor Shulitea; the mere sight of me seemed to rekindle all their grief +for the loss of their kinsman, and to remind them more forcibly than ever +of his tragical fate. His mother, old Turero, in point of grief, had +rivalled Niobe; she had never ceased weeping and lamenting from the time +she heard of her son's death, and had twice attempted to strangle +herself. But even in the midst of her passionate sorrow, I could scarcely +refrain from laughing, while observing her care and anxiety to get all +she could from me. After deploring the sad fate of her dear son, "You +know," she continued, "you promised him that you would send him a +handsome new musket from Sydney; and now, poor fellow, he is dead; and +cannot shoot with it; but then you must remember that his brother Kiney +Kiney is still alive, and he can shoot with it; and poor George would +wish that his brother should have his new musket." This speech I felt +quite irresistible; therefore, in order to comfort the old queen, I +promised that I would send the musket for her second son; which +declaration seemed to afford her great consolation, and considerably +abated the violence of her grief.</p> + +<p>Just at the dawn of morning we started from the bay in Rivers' canoe, +accompanied by his wife, one child, and the two stout slaves he had +mentioned to me. My luggage, which consisted of one leathern portmanteau +and my bed, was placed in the centre. I had also provided myself with a +small basket of cooked meat, with bread, and a small bottle of brandy, +which was given me by the captain of one of the whalers. The day broke +around us with more than usual brightness; the dewy mists of night were +just rising from the waters, and the huge and abrupt forms of the +mountains were beginning to develop themselves; flights of wild ducks and +stray birds skimmed rapidly by us. The thoughts that crowded my mind were +strange and varied, while contemplating scenes of such tranquil beauty as +were now presented, glowing with the tints of the rising sun. I +contrasted these with the difficulties and dangers I might have to +encounter from hordes of ferocious savages, who, now flushed with +conquest, were plotting murder and destruction against each other: even a +glance at my companions banished all peaceful illusions. While the wife, +son, and slaves were using the paddles with the greatest exertions, +Rivers was carefully examining his weapons. The beauty of the morning and +the romantic scenery was unnoticed: his thoughts were directed solely to +contemplating the depth and the width of my stocking of powder, which +seemed to afford him infinite satisfaction. He had with him a beautiful +double-barrelled gun, and a very good Tower musket; and seeing so many +wild ducks fly past, he drew the bullet out of one of the barrels of the +former, and, with some of my stock of small shot, fired occasionally +amongst them.</p> + +<p>At about eight o'clock a light sea breeze sprang up: they then set their +sail, and all went to sleep, excepting one slave, who was employed to +steer the canoe; so that I had ample time to ruminate upon my solitary +and perilous situation. The tide failed us at twelve o'clock, and we then +went on shore, kindled a fire, and soon collected such a supply of +shell-fish as furnished us a splendid repast. Here we remained till the +flood-tide set in strong, when, again hoisting our sail, we arrived at +the Kirikiri about sunset.</p> + +<p>I here found the missionaries in the greatest consternation and dismay, +and learned that it was one of the chiefs of Hokianga who had shot +George, and they dreaded lest the result of that deed should be that the +whole of the savage tribes on that part of the island would be opposed to +each other; that combats would ensue; and which side soever might be +victorious, it would prove equally injurious to them, as they had +settlements on both sides of the island. But their greatest alarm was +occasioned by their possessions at Hokianga, as the most violent +depredations were there being committed; and as this was the very point +of my destination, the news was not very consolatory to me. "So anxious," +said one of "the brethren" to me, "were we to inform our Christian +brethren of our danger, that we actually gave a <i>warm piece</i> to a native +to carry a letter over to you, although that is strictly contrary to our +orders." I expressed a desire to know what he meant by a <i>warm piece</i>; he +kicked his foot against the stock of a gun I had at the time in my hand; +and, looking at me with an expression of the greatest contempt, said, "It +is what <i>you worldly</i> folks call a musket!"</p> + +<p>They were making considerable preparations to repair to the great meeting +of the chiefs, to which Rivers was journeying. This was a wise and +politic measure for them to pursue; and they were highly delighted to +have such an addition to their party as this well-known chief; and though +they would not acknowledge it, their satisfaction was very visible. I +earnestly requested them to inform me candidly, from all they had heard, +whether they thought I might, with safety, venture across the country; +but I could get nothing from them but vague and mysterious answers: one +thing, however, they made me very clearly understand; which was, that +they neither cared for me nor for my drawings; that their own safety +engrossed all their thoughts; and that a worldly-minded, misguided +creature like me was but as dust in the balance, compared to such godly +people as themselves, who were now placed in jeopardy. They, without +scruple, applied quotations from the Scriptures to themselves, such as, +"Why do the heathen so furiously rage," etc., etc.</p> + +<p>My necessities compelled me to request a favour from them, which was, +that they would allow one of their boys, who could speak English, to +accompany me, as our loads were heavy; and his being known to belong to +their establishment I thought might be some protection; but the short +answer of the monosyllable "<i>No</i>" soon made me repent having asked it. I +spread my bed in one of their empty rooms; and started at daybreak next +morning, with my two native slaves. I could not banish from my +remembrance the inhospitable conduct of these missionaries; they never +even inquired whether I had any provision for a journey they themselves +would not have dared to undertake, which was evident by their giving a +native a <i>warm piece</i> for merely taking a letter for them. As my shoes +were nearly worn out, and I had a long distance to go, over execrable +roads, I had intended asking them for a new pair, as they had abundance +of everything of the kind sent to them from England, to distribute to the +needy (and I fully came under that description of character); but finding +them so selfish and cold-hearted, and meeting with one refusal, I +refrained, and set off, literally almost barefooted.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XLIX"></a><h2>CHAPTER XLIX</h2> + +<h3>THE JOURNEY TO HOKIANGA</h3> + +<p>We journeyed on all day by a road I had never been before, my attendants +evidently taking by-paths to avoid meeting stragglers or runaways. I was +well laden, having to carry my musket and my basket of provisions; and +each of my men, in addition to the loads I had placed on his shoulders, +bore a basket of potatoes. Once or twice, during our route, we saw some +persons at a distance, and I was sorry to notice the great alarm it +occasioned to my companions, as I now had every reason to apprehend, +that, in case of danger, they would slip off their burdens, make their +escape, and leave me and my baggage to my fate, which the missionaries +had told me they considered a thing very likely to happen. Once we heard +a great firing of muskets, which I afterwards ascertained to be the <i>feu +de joie</i> fired at the first meeting of the chiefs, at their grand +assembling in the neutral village.</p> + +<p>At night, we arrived safe at Patuone's Village, where I had slept on my +first journey across the island; but it now presented a very different +appearance to what it had done then; instead of the tumult I had formerly +heard, all was silence; the numerous families then there, all fully +occupied, were exchanged for a few old surly-looking slaves, and the +huts were all deserted. The inhabitants, in consequence of the rumour of +approaching war, having betaken themselves to one of their fortified pas, +I had no alternative but to pass the night with these suspicious-looking +creatures, who, feeling themselves beyond the control of their cruel +masters, soon gave way to their own vile passions, and became most +impertinent and intrusive—taking every advantage of my loneliness to +indulge their curiosity and familiarity.</p> + +<p>On my arrival, I had deposited my things in one of the empty huts, and +spread my bed, hoping to enjoy the luxury of a few hours' repose after +the fatigue and great anxieties of the day; but these fellows would force +themselves into the hut I had chosen, where they lighted a fire, and sat +chattering around it all the night long. Finding that I did not appear +alarmed at their intrusion or noise, they kept doing everything they +could think of to rouse my fears. They threatened to break open my +portmanteau; and one old wretch sharpened his knife, and made motions as +though he were going to cut my throat and eat me. I knew my only chance +of safety was not to betray any sign of apprehension; so I forced a +laugh, and made them believe I considered their tricks an excellent joke. +I gave them all my tobacco to keep them in good humour; but I passed a +most miserable night, nearly suffocated with smoke, distracted with their +noise, and annoyed by vermin of every description.</p> + +<p>I was most happy when daybreak gave me an excuse for leaving these brutal +savages, and resuming my journey. Every step I took brought before me +proofs of the horrors of war: villages which had been crowded, were now +entirely desolate, and, in many instances, burned to the ground. On that +spot where I had left a party of enterprising Scotchmen busily employed +in sawing timber, with crowds of natives assisting them, all was quiet +and totally deserted, with the exception of a few nearly starved, +wretched-looking dogs, who, hearing someone approach, came out, and tried +to bark at us, but were too weak to utter a sound.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_L"></a><h2>CHAPTER L</h2> + +<h3>EUROPEAN PREPARATIONS FOR DEFENCE</h3> + +<p>Our march along the banks of the river was through a most beautiful +country; but all the inhabitants had fled; their plantations were in a +most luxuriant state; fields which I had left bare and uncultivated were +now covered with Indian corn standing higher than my head, the ripe ears +hanging fantastically in all directions, and none to gather in the +harvest; the crops of kumara and potatoes were equally abundant. I could +not help thinking that, if they expected an invasion of their enemies, +they had left an ample supply of forage for their use. In the evening I +arrived at Horeke, or Deptford Dock-yard (of which I made mention in my +first journey). I here found my countrymen in a state of considerable +embarrassment. The various chiefs of that district had encamped all round +them; so near to them had they taken up their position, that, whatever +might be the result of their battles, the European settlement would be in +danger. The settlers had fortified their place of refuge in the best +manner they could; and all were determined to defend themselves and +property to the last. They had four nine-pounders mounted on a hill, and +a tolerable battery made of three-inch pine stuff.</p> + +<p>Before the English erected their fortifications, there was a great +difference of opinion amongst them as to the propriety and utility of +adopting so strong a measure, and the affair was finally put to the vote, +when the majority proved to be in favour of a strong resistance. I +opposed the measure all I could, for I felt convinced that in the event +of our allies being worsted we all should be involved in one common +massacre; whereas, if no resistance was made, plunder alone would have +been the extent of the injury we should suffer; and even of that taking +place I had strong doubts. However, as my opinion was overruled, I had to +submit, which I did unhesitatingly; and, like a good soldier, I held +myself in readiness in case of an attack.</p> + +<p>The proprietor and manager of the Dock-yard possessed certainly a +"satisfying reason" for striving to defend himself at all hazards. The +vessel I had left here, on my former visit, in frame, was now nearly +completed, and a most beautiful one she was. He told me he would much +rather part with life than see her destroyed; and I confess I could fully +enter into his feelings on the subject; but as I had no such object at +stake, and was not quite enthusiastic enough to fight for a vessel I had +no share in, I felt very much inclined to let the natives war among +themselves without interference; but as we Europeans had agreed to assist +each other, I would not be behind-hand.</p> + +<p>I discharged Rivers' two slaves, and rewarded them liberally for +conducting me with safety through such a wild and perilous country; they +departed (after expressing the heartiest wishes for my reaching my own +home in safety, and thanks for my generosity) to join their master at the +great meeting of the chiefs in the interior. These men, while assisting +me, were performing a great service to their master, by acting as spies. +When we started from the Kirikiri each was armed with a musket; but when +we had accomplished about half the journey, they concealed these in a +hollow tree, under pretence of extreme fatigue. I felt convinced at the +time that was not their real reason for so doing; and afterwards I +learned the true motive. Had they been found armed when returning to +their master (who was hostile to those assembled round the Dock-yard), +they would have been detained; but, by their coming unarmed amongst us, +they were suffered to depart; and I have no doubt the information they +carried back to Rivers was very important. I did not mention to anyone +the hiding of these muskets in the woods, though, according to "The +Articles of War," I ought to have done so, as getting possession of them +would have added two more to our strength, and lessened that of our +enemy; my silence arose from a repugnance I felt to betray these poor +creatures, who had behaved so well to me.</p> + +<p>Although prepared for war, we were very well pleased to find no attack +was made upon us. Indeed, from the first, it had been my decided opinion, +that unless we interfered, and made ourselves by that means obnoxious, +they had too much respect for us, and were too anxious to retain our +kindly feelings towards them, to molest us; at the same time, I felt that +it might be a very politic measure to show them what powerful resistance +we could make, if driven to extremities.</p> + +<p>After passing a week of the greatest anxiety, on account of our expected +invasion, it afforded us the utmost satisfaction to receive a visit from +Mr. Hobbs, the Wesleyan missionary, one of the persons who had visited +the war-camp of the assembled chiefs, who were convened, on the death of +our lamented friend George, to debate and decide upon the momentous +question of peace or war.</p> + +<p>The subject (our informant stated) had been gone into at great length, +and stormy and fierce had been the discussion. Finally, the good sense of +the elder and more experienced chiefs prevailed over the fiercer passions +of the younger, and peace was decided upon. This event forms a new era in +"The Political History of the Few Zealanders," it being the first time so +great an assemblage had met to discuss openly a national question, or in +which they had allowed cool reasoning and good sense to prevail over +their habitual ferocity. As may naturally be supposed, where such various +interests were at stake, this pacific measure was not effected without +considerable opposition from the young and furious chiefs. The +provocations given by them to the elders, whose voices were for peace, +were considerable. They did not confine themselves to abuse, but fired +several muskets during debate, in hopes that one shot out of the many +might prove fatal; which, if it had, and any distinguished chief had been +killed, or even wounded, it would have immediately thrown all into +confusion. Even when pacific measures were decided upon by a very large +majority, and the chiefs were about to separate, a bullet was fired from +the pa, which had evidently been aimed at a chief, a well-known ally of +the late Shulitea, as it fell at his feet, and the earth it threw up fell +upon him. For a few seconds surprise kept all silent; but, as the angry +chief rose up, and was about to address the crowd, his friends eagerly +surrounded him, and hurried him away.</p> + +<p>This was the first instance on record, in which these people had laid a +statement of their private wrongs before a public assembly consisting of +deputies from every part of the island, and abided by the decision of the +majority; and it was the only instance of a chief being killed in battle, +and his decease not having been followed up by the plundering and +destruction of his whole family or tribe.</p> + +<p>This had been a question of peculiar interest to us Europeans, as several +of their great men had fallen in a skirmish (whether an accidental one or +a decided combat made not the slightest difference). We knew their +barbarous custom; and, consequently, we were preparing for scenes of +deadly revenge and insatiable fury to be acted by both parties, and which +must have involved all settled here in destruction. Our feelings may +therefore be imagined, when we were informed that a parliament had been +convened, and all the parties interested were present by invitation, and +took part in the debate. A central spot was fixed on to accommodate the +various chieftains. The causes of the accident were then explained; they +wept and lamented the fallen chiefs, and finally retired satisfied to +their several homes. Surely everyone who is interested in tracing our own +form of government, from the present time up to its first rude outline, +will perceive the similarity of causes and events, and will anticipate +the glorious prospect of beholding a clever, brave, and, I may add, noble +race of men, like the New Zealanders, rescued from barbarism. This +pacific and rational discussion among the chiefs seems, in reality, to +give promise of the germ of a regular reform. Should a few more such +meetings take place, and terminate in the same amicable manner (and I +think it very probable), some clever individual may rise up amongst them, +take the reins in his own hands, and establish something like a regular +form of government.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_LI"></a><h2>CHAPTER LI</h2> + +<h3>OBSERVATIONS ON THE SOCIAL CONDITIONS OF THE MAORIS</h3> + +<p>Feeling that I was not likely now to be called upon to act offensively, I +considered myself at liberty to make numerous excursions round our +fortress, not only to admire this fertile and beautiful country, but to +visit some of my old friends. I was very much astonished and shocked at +seeing several very beautiful young women, whom I left only a few months +back in perfect health and strength, now reduced to mere "living +skeletons," and also to hear of the death of others by consumption. This +disease seems to be the scourge of the young; and when they are once +seized with its symptoms, they are very speedily brought to the grave. +The natives say, "It is Atua, the Great Spirit, coming into them, and +eating up their inside; for the patient can feel those parts gradually go +away, and then they become weaker and weaker till no more is left; after +which the Spirit sends them to the happy island." They never attempt any +means of curing or of alleviating the pains caused by this cruel +complaint; and all those under its influence are tabooed. I procured from +the brig all my remaining stores of tapioca, sago, arrowroot, and sugar, +and distributed them in the best way I could amongst my sick friends. +They were anxious for wine; but that portion of my sea-stock, as well as +spirits, had been long since expended.</p> + +<p>It seems unaccountable that the natives of an atmosphere so dry as this +is—a country in which there are no marshy bogs, and where, though there +is an abundance of water, it is generally seen in clear and sparkling +rills rushing down from the mountains into the rivers—should be subject +to so fatal a disease as galloping consumption. The only cause to which I +can attribute such an affliction is, their indifference to lying out all +night exposed to every change of weather—to cold and rain—which, in +young and tender constitutions, must produce the most pernicious +consequences. If some few are rendered hardy and robust by this process, +many, no doubt, are killed by it. I endeavoured to impress on the minds +of all my female friends the great danger of thus exposing themselves to +cold; but they only laughed at my precautions, and said, "If Atua wished +it, so it must be; they could not strive with the Great Spirit."</p> + +<p>I have heard so much said about the great impropriety of the white +settlers admitting the native females into their society, so much of the +scandalous conduct of captains of ships suffering their men to have +sweethearts during their stay in port, and so much urged in justification +of the indignation shown by the missionaries when this subject is touched +on by them, that I feel it necessary to state one decided benefit which +has resulted from that intercourse, and which, in my opinion, far more +than counterbalances the evil against which there has been raised so loud +an outcry.</p> + +<p>Before our intercourse took place with the New Zealanders, a universal +and unnatural custom existed amongst them, which was that of destroying +most of their female children in infancy, their excuse being that they +were quite as much trouble to rear, and consumed just as much food, as a +male child, and yet, when grown up, they were not fit to go to war as +their boys were. The strength and pride of a chief then consisted in the +number of his sons; while the few females who had been suffered to live +were invariably looked down upon by all with the utmost contempt. They +led a life of misery and degradation. The difference now is most +remarkable. The natives, seeing with what admiration strangers beheld +their fine young women, and what handsome presents were made to them, by +which their families were benefited, feeling also that their influence +was so powerful over the white men, have been latterly as anxious to +cherish and protect their infant girls as they were formerly cruelly bent +on destroying them. Therefore, if one sin has been, to a certain degree, +encouraged, a much greater one has been annihilated. Infanticide, the +former curse of this country, and the cause of its scanty population, a +crime every way calculated to make men bloody-minded and ferocious, and +to stifle every benevolent and tender feeling, has totally disappeared +wherever an intercourse has taken place between the natives and the crews +of European vessels.</p> + +<p>The New Zealand method of "courtship and matrimony" is a most +extraordinary one; so much so, that an observer could never imagine any +affection existed between the parties. A man sees a woman whom he fancies +he should like for a wife; he asks the consent of her father, or, if an +orphan, of her nearest relation, which, if he obtains, he carries his +"intended" off by force, she resisting with all her strength; and, as the +New Zealand girls are generally pretty robust, sometimes a dreadful +struggle takes place; both are soon stripped to the skin, and it is +sometimes the work of hours to remove the fair prize a hundred yards. If +she breaks away, she instantly flies from her antagonist, and he has his +labour to commence again. We may suppose that if the lady feels any wish +to be united to her would-be spouse, she will not make too violent an +opposition; but it sometimes happens that she secures her retreat into +her father's house, and the lover loses all chance of ever obtaining her; +whereas, if he can manage to carry her in triumph into his own, she +immediately, becomes his wife. The women have a decided aversion to +marriage, which can scarcely be wondered at, when we consider how they +are circumstanced. While they remain single, they enjoy all the +privileges of the other sex; they may rove where they please, and bestow +their favours on whom they choose, and are entirely beyond control or +restraint; but when married their freedom is at an end; they become mere +slaves, and sink gradually into domestic drudges to those who have the +power of life and death over them; and whether their conduct be criminal +or exemplary, they are equally likely to receive a blow, in a moment of +passion, of sufficient force to end life and slavery together! There are +many exceptions to this frightful picture; and I saw several old couples, +who had been united in youth, who had always lived in happiness together, +and whose kind and friendly manner towards each other set an example well +worthy of imitation in many English families.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_LII"></a><h2>CHAPTER LII</h2> + +<h3>A MAORI TANGI</h3> + +<p>April 2nd.—This day, perceiving that an unusual number of canoes were +passing up the river, all proceeding towards the village of Par-Finneigh, +we hailed one; and, upon its coming alongside, we inquired what had +occurred, for every appearance of bustle or commotion amongst this +restless and war-like people is truly alarming. They informed us that the +great chief A-Rowa, who died four months since, and the ceremony of whose +"lying in state" I had been permitted by his eldest son to be a witness +of, was this day to be exposed to the view of his friends; was to be +cried over; and was finally to be deposited in the tomb of his ancestors. +As this was one of their imposing spectacles which I had never yet seen, +I was anxious to witness it. We soon got a boat ready, and a party of us +joined the throng, and proceeded with them to the village. Upon our +arrival thither, we found an immense concourse of people assembled; for +here, as in most uncivilised or early states of society, the disposition +and good qualities of the deceased are made known by the number of +friends and followers who meet at his funeral. As these New Zealanders +were all fully equipped in arms, they had more the appearance of a +hostile meeting in an enemy's camp, than of a group of mourners about to +be occupied in the melancholy duty of depositing out of sight for ever +the last remains of a beloved chief.</p> + +<p>Mooetara, the son and successor of the deceased, came to meet us on the +beach, and seemed much gratified by our attention, our appearance on this +solemn occasion giving him importance in the eyes of all the natives then +assembled. He gave orders for our being conducted with much ceremony to +the place of mourning, where, amidst a number of uncouth pieces of +carving (which, we were informed were all tombs reared in honour of the +memory of several former chiefs, and all tabooed), was erected a small +hut, covered in at the top with thatch, but open at the sides. In the +centre of this hut the bones of the deceased chief were exposed to view. +After having undergone the process of decomposition during four months' +exposure to heat, wind, and rain, they had been collected, cleaned, and +decorated with a quantity of fresh white feathers, which rendered the +appearance of the skull still more frightful.</p> + +<p>The women here invariably perform the parts of chief mourners; a group of +them, with the widow of the deceased at their head, kept up a most +mournful cadence, and at every pause in their dismal song slashed their +skins with a piece of shell, till their faces, necks, and arms were +literally streaming down with blood. This mourning and cutting is +completely a matter of business, and is sometimes carried on without +their feeling any real sorrow or sympathy. Parties kept arriving, and +when there was not room for them to thrust themselves round the hut, they +sat down in groups, perfectly unconcerned, employing themselves in +cleaning their firelocks, or playing off upon each other some practical +joke; but the moment a vacant space was presented near the hut, they +deliberately stripped themselves, put on a most sorrowful countenance, +and, seating themselves as near to the ornamented bones as possible, they +immediately began their howling and slashing; no one seemed to like the +idea of being outdone by his neighbour; but when the time allotted to +this ceremony had expired, all instantly jumped up, wiped themselves, put +on their mats, and joined the busy throng. There was, indeed, one real +mourner, who never moved from the bones, nor once lifted up her eyes from +them; she neither howled nor cut herself, and yet she inspired me with +pity and commiseration for her forlorn state. This woman had been the +only wife of the late chief; and I was informed they had lived many years +together, and had a large family; she looked as if she herself was on the +very brink of the grave. The contemplation of the mouldering remains of +her partner through life must have been, even to her savage mind, most +lacerating.</p> + +<p>After witnessing several parties perform their funeral ceremonies, and +imbibing, in some degree, the melancholy tone of mind such a sight must +necessarily create, we arose and joined Mooetara. Here I witnessed a +scene that reminded me of an English country fair. An immense number of +temporary huts had been erected for the accommodation of the chiefs and +their families, where they might repose after their exertions, while +their slaves cooked their provisions, of which an abundant quantity had +been provided, consisting of piles of kumara and Indian corn, with heaps +of fish, which were served out, to all who came for them, with a most +liberal hand, and which, of course, added not a little to the pleasure of +the day. After all had satisfied their hunger (and even the lowest slaves +were permitted, on this occasion, to have as much as they wished for) +they jumped up, flew to their muskets, and commenced their war dance with +great noise and vigour. The violence of their exertions caused their +recent wounds to bleed afresh, and added much to the horror of their +hideous grimaces. They then divided into two parties, and had a sham +battle. I must here do justice to the temperate habits of my savage +friends. During my residence in New Zealand, I have known but very few +who were addicted to drinking, and I scarcely ever saw one of them in a +state of intoxication; and, on this occasion, where a profusion of what +they esteem delicacies was provided gratuitously, they partook so +moderately of the tempting fare as not to be prevented using the most +violent exertions immediately after their meal. The entertainment being +now over, the different parties gathered up what remained of the portions +of food distributed to them, and without taking any leave of their +entertainer, or returning any thanks for his bountiful providing, they +all entered their canoes and paddled away.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_LIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER LIII</h2> + +<h3>CHARACTER OF THE NEW ZEALANDERS</h3> + +<p>An unfortunate prejudice has gone forth into the world against the +natives of New Zealand, which I have always endeavoured to counteract +from a sense of justice, and, from a careful review of those +circumstances which have fallen immediately under my own observation; +this prejudice has long retarded our knowledge of their true character, +but error must gradually give way to truth; and as the circumstances +which first brought the stigma upon their name come to light, and are +investigated and properly explained, I feel confident the conduct of +these islanders will be found superior to that of any other nation in the +South Seas. If we take the whole catalogue of dreadful massacres they +have been charged with, and (setting aside partiality for our own +countrymen) allow them to be carefully examined, it will be found that we +have invariably been the aggressors; and when we have given serious cause +of offence, can we be so irrational as to express astonishment that a +savage should seek revenge? The last massacre was that of "The Boyd's" +crew; every impartial person who reads the account of that melancholy +transaction must acknowledge the unfortunate captain was most to blame. +But that event took place nineteen years back; since which time they know +us better, and respect us more; in proof of which, four years since, The +Mercury brig was taken possession of by a crowd of natives, after they +had endured a series of offences and every kind of ill-treatment; but the +difference in their fate, compared with that of The Boyd's ship's +company, was remarkable, and proved that the savage temper of the natives +was much softened down and humanised, as they merely plundered the +vessel, but made no attempt to murder or molest any of the crew, who, if +they had possessed sufficient courage, would not have sacrificed their +vessel; but, being terrified, they abandoned her, and she was finally +wrecked. During my residence, I never heard of one of the men having been +murdered; and I feel fully convinced no massacres will ever again be +committed in any of the ports in New Zealand where European vessels have +been accustomed to anchor.</p> + +<p>I once saw, with indignation, a chief absolutely knocked overboard from a +whaler's deck by the mate. Twenty years ago so gross an insult would have +cost the lives of every individual on board the vessel, but, at the time +this occurred, it was only made the subject of complaint, and finally +became a cause of just remonstrance with the commander of the whaler. The +natives themselves (and I have heard the opinions of various tribes) have +invariably told me that these things occurred from our want of knowledge +of their laws and customs, which compelled them to seek revenge. "It +was," they said, "no act of treachery on our part; we did not invite you +to our shores for the purpose of plunder and murder: but you came, and +ill-used us; you broke into our tabooed grounds. And did not Atua give +those bad white men into the hands of our fathers?"</p> + +<p>I am confident that a body of Europeans may now reside in perfect +security in any part of these islands. The late plundering of the +missionaries at Whangaroa was a peculiar circumstance, which might have +happened even in civilised Europe, had the seat of war approached so near +their place of residence. If their houses and chapel had been on the +plains of Waterloo during the June of 1815 they would not have +experienced a better fate.</p> + +<p>This recent tumult has brought a circumstance into notice highly +interesting to all who may hereafter wish to settle here. It has hitherto +been their custom, when an accident occurs, such as the sudden death of a +chief, to make a general plunder of everything belonging to the family of +the deceased, and all under their protection. A knowledge of this +horrible custom has deterred many from settling in New Zealand; and even +those who have resolved to run so great a risk have lived in a continued +state of alarm, lest the death of their protecting chief should leave +them at the mercy of a savage enemy.</p> + +<p>The deaths of Hongi and Shulitea placed the missionaries and all the +settlers on Kororarika Beach in considerable jeopardy: but it appeared as +if reason had begun to dawn on the minds of these benighted savages, for +this unjust and cruel custom was now for the first time discontinued. I +was on the beach at the time when an immense party, well armed, came for +the express purpose of satiating their revengeful feelings. I had taken +the precaution of removing what I possessed on board a whaler then lying +in the harbour. The chiefs first sat down to discuss the matter over +amongst themselves, and their deliberations ended in their being +satisfied with destroying the village of Matowe, the one adjoining ours, +and which had been the residence of Pomare's son, whose death was the +cause of all the late turbulent events.</p> + +<p>The great and leading defect in this country, and the principal cause of +their frequent wars and disturbances, which harass and depopulate the +tribes, and puts a stop to all improvement, is the want of some regular +system of government. There are only two classes of people—chiefs and +slaves; and, as consanguinity constitutes a high claim, the eldest son of +a large family, who can bring the greatest number of warriors of his own +name into the field, is considered the chief of that district or tribe; +and as he, by reason of his followers, can take possession of the +greatest number of prisoners or slaves, he becomes the ruling man. Every +other man of his tribe considers himself on an equality with him in +everything, except that he shows him obedience, and follows him to +battle.</p> + +<p>Each is independent in his own family, and holds uncontrolled power of +life and death over every individual it contains. They seem not to +exercise any coercion over the younger branches of a family, who are +allowed unbounded liberty till the girls have sweethearts and the boys +are strong enough to go to war. They are kind and hospitable to +strangers, and are excessively fond of their children. On a journey, it +is more usual to see the father carrying his infant than the mother; and +all the little offices of a nurse are performed by him with the tenderest +care and good humour. In many instances (wherein they differ from most +savage tribes) I have seen the wife treated as an equal and companion. In +fact, when not engaged in war, the New Zealander is quite a domestic, +cheerful, harmless character; but once rouse his anger, or turn him into +ridicule, and his disposition is instantly changed. A being, whose +passions have never been curbed from infancy, and whose only notion of +what he conceives to be his right is to retaliate for an offence with +blood, must naturally form a cruel and vindictive character. Such these +islanders seemed to us on our first visiting them. The sight of beings so +extraordinary (for thus we Europeans must have appeared to them) excited +in their savage minds the greatest wonder; and they thought we were sent +as a scourge and an enemy; and though Cook, one of their earliest +visitors, adopted every method his ingenuity could devise to conciliate +them, yet, as they never could thoroughly understand his intentions, they +were always on the alert to attack him. Hence arose the horror and +disgust expressed formerly at the mere mention of the name of "a New +Zealander."</p> + +<p>I have often tried, in vain, to account for there being such a decided +dissimilarity between the natives of New Holland and New Zealand. So +trifling is the difference in their situation on the globe, and so +<i>similar their climates</i>—both having remained so long unknown to the +great continents, and so devoid of intercourse with the rest of the +world—that one would be led to imagine a great resemblance must be the +result. But the natives of the former seem of the lowest grade—the last +link in the great chain of existence which unites man with the monkey. +Their limbs are long, thin, and flat, with large bony knees and elbows, a +projecting forehead, and pot-belly. The mind, too, seems adapted to this +mean configuration; they have neither energy, enterprise, nor industry; +and their curiosity can scarcely be excited. A few exceptions may be met +with; but these are their general characteristics. While the natives of +the latter island are "cast in beauty's perfect mould;" the children are +so fine and powerfully made, that each might serve as a model for a +statue of "the Infant Hercules;" nothing can exceed the graceful and +athletic forms of the men, or the rounded limbs of their young women. +These possess eyes beautiful and eloquent, and a profusion of long, +silky, curling hair; while the intellects of both sexes seem of a +superior order; all appear eager for improvement, full of energy, and +indefatigably industrious, and possessing amongst themselves several arts +which are totally unknown to their neighbours.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_LIV"></a><h2>CHAPTER LIV</h2> + +<h3>THE SETTLEMENT AND TRADE OF HOKIANGA</h3> + +<p>On April the 14th, our brig being stored with planks, flax, and potatoes, +and ready for sea, I went on board of her. We had fine weather till we +dropped down to the entrance of the river, where we intended taking in +our stock of water for the voyage, when the scene suddenly changed, and a +severe gale came on, right out to sea, which we could not avail ourselves +of; neither could we get the water off, as our rafts of casks got adrift +in the attempt to get them on board. To add to our disasters, one of our +cables parted, and we had to ride out the gale (of two days' continuance) +with one only, the sea rolling heavily right open before us, and we in +momentary expectation of the remaining cable's going; we had not a single +day's allowance of water on board, and at one period all hands (except +the carpenter and passengers) were out of the brig, on shore, filling the +casks. Fortunately for us, the cable proved a tough one; had it parted, +we should have been in a most perilous situation.</p> + +<p>April 20th.—For the last week we were stationary at the river's mouth, +waiting for a fair wind to carry us over the bar; and during that time +there was no appearance of any change; we also heard that vessels had +been detained here for six weeks before they could accomplish it. We +were visited daily by parties of natives, who seemed to rejoice at our +being delayed, as it gave them more of our company than they had +calculated upon. They were more delighted with our society than we were +with theirs; in a small vessel they are a serious nuisance, on account of +the swarms of vermin they bring with them, and which they communicate +liberally to all. Myself and all the passengers on board had our leisure +time fully occupied in dislodging these "little familiars" from their +strongholds in different parts of our apparel.</p> + +<p>During the time we were lying here, I saw and conversed with several +individuals who had attended the "Great Meeting," and their accounts gave +rise to various opinions respecting the policy of supplying the natives +with firearms. As I had always been an advocate for the measure, I was +gratified by hearing that it was thought to be in consequence of each +party's being possessed of a nearly equal quantity of muskets, that a +general and exterminating war was avoided. Some may suppose that similar +tranquility would have been preserved, had they been equally well +supplied with their native weapons of war; but that would not have been +the case. When they found that each party could furnish forth the same +number of European muskets, they paused, well knowing that it was +contrary to the wish of all the white settlers that they should proceed +to hostilities. Indeed, Europeans intrepidly mingled amongst them, urging +them to a reconciliation, and threatening that, if they failed in their +endeavours, the supplies of arms and ammunition should be discontinued. +This threat had its desired effect on the minds of the natives; no blood +was spilt, and each chief returned quietly to his own home.</p> + +<p>On the night we heard of the death of George and his wife, "Revenge and +war" was the universal cry. His party would not believe that it could be +an accident, nor would they hear of any apology being received. At this +time they imagined the tribes of Hokianga were possessed of but very few +firearms; and, as the skirmish took place in that district, it was +determined that an exterminating war should be carried into the heart of +it. However, before all the preparations could be made to carry their +intentions into effect, they received certain information that the people +of Hokianga were even better supplied with muskets than those of the Bay +of Islands. This intelligence occasioned an assemblage of the different +tribes to be proposed, and when it took place the friends of George saw +their opponents so well prepared for the "tug of war" that they deemed it +judicious to come forward and to shake hands and to acknowledge that the +death of Shulitea proceeded either from accident or mistake. A curious +circumstance took place in the midst of their debate. An old chief, who +wished for a fight, and did not approve of the introduction of firearms, +but was an advocate for the old method of New Zealand warfare, proposed +that each party should send away <i>all</i> their muskets and ammunition, and +engage manfully with their own native weapons, and then it could be +easily proved which were the "best men;" but this mode of settling the +dispute, not being agreeable to the majority, was instantly negatived, +and treated with disdain.</p> + +<p>The colony of Scotch carpenters, who had formed a settlement at the head +of the river, and of whom I made "honourable mention" on my first +journey, finding themselves so close to what they feared might become +the seat of war, and having no means whatever of defending themselves, +made an arrangement with Mooetara, the chief of Parkunugh (which is +situated at the entrance of the same river), and placed themselves under +his protection. They accordingly moved down here, which gave great +satisfaction to that chief. Neither could their former protector, +Patuone, feel offended at their removal, from the peculiar nature of the +circumstances they were placed in. These hardy North Britons were +delighted to find a reasonable excuse for moving, their former +establishment being situated too far from the sea for them to reap any +advantage from ships coming into port. Nothing can be more gratifying +than to behold the great anxiety of the natives to induce Englishmen to +settle amongst them; it ensures their safety; and no one act of treachery +is on record of their having practised towards those whom they had +invited to reside with them.</p> + +<p>Mooetara is a man of great property and high rank, and is considered a +very proud chief by the natives; yet he is to be seen every day working +as hard as any slave in assisting in the erection of houses for the +accommodation of his new settlers. He has actually removed from his old +village of Parkunugh (a strong and beautiful place), and is erecting huts +for his tribe near the spot chosen by his new friends; so that, in a very +short time, a barren point of land, hitherto without a vestige of a human +habitation, will become a thriving and populous village, for it is +incredible how quickly the orders of these chiefs are carried into +effect. I was frequently a witness to the short space of time they took +to erect their houses; and, though small, they are tight, weather-proof, +and warm: their storehouses are put together in the most substantial and +workmanlike manner.</p> + +<p>It is very difficult to make the New Zealanders explain the nature of +their religious belief. One superstition seems general with all the +tribes respecting the formation of the world, or, rather, of their own +island, for that is the place of the first importance in their +estimation. They say a man, or a god, or some great spirit, was fishing +in his war-canoe, and pulled up a large fish, which instantly turned into +an island; and a lizard came upon that, and brought up a man out of the +water by his long hair; and he was the father of all the New Zealanders. +Almost all their grotesque carvings are illustrations of this idea in +some way or other. The favourite theme on which (I observed) the +missionaries discoursed to them were "the torments of hell." This has +become a subject of ridicule to most of the natives; they do not deny +that there may be such a place, but they add, it is not for them, for if +Atua had intended it so he would have sent them word about it long before +he sent the white men into their country; and they conclude by stating +that they know perfectly well the situation of the island where they are +to go to after this life.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_LV"></a><h2>CHAPTER LV</h2> + +<h3>MASSACRE OF A SCHOONER'S CREW</h3> + +<p>While remaining here wind-bound, in imaginary security, and amusing +ourselves with noticing the curious customs and peculiarities of these +islanders, a dreadful tragedy was taking place only a few miles' distance +from us, and to which I before alluded, when I mentioned crossing the bar +on our first arrival from Port Jackson. The Enterprise schooner, a very +fine vessel, which was built at the settlement on this river, had been +sent to Sydney, and while we were lying there we were in hourly +expectation of her return. She did return. The unfavourable weather which +detained us so long proved fatal to her, and she was wrecked a few miles +to the northward of the river's mouth, and every soul on board perished.</p> + +<p>The moment this catastrophe was known every European hastened to the +spot, and, with feelings of horror, perceived but too plainly, from the +appearance of the wreck and the boat, and by finding also the clothes of +the crew, that they had reached the shore in safety, and had afterwards +all been murdered; but how, or by whom, it was impossible to discover. +The most probable conclusion was that the tribes situated around the +European dockyard at Hokianga, having meditated for some time past a +great war-like expedition, waited the return of this schooner from Sydney +to possess themselves of an additional supply of arms and ammunition, +which might enable them to take the field with a certainty of conquest. +They had regularly purchased the cargo of this vessel by their labour +and their merchandise, and the schooner was merely employed to convey it +thither from Sydney, for the use of the natives; unhappily for the poor +creatures on board, in running for the mouth of the river, she fell to +leeward, and got stranded on the beach, in the very territory of that +tribe against whom these preparations were made—the tribe intended to be +invaded. Though no formal declaration of war had taken place, the tribes +well knew the preparations that were making against them, and the nature +of the cargo contained in The Enterprise; falling into the hands of such +fierce and vindictive savages, the fate of the crew may be imagined—all +our poor fellows were sacrificed to gratify their feelings of revenge.</p> + +<p>Mooetara (the friendly chief of Hokianga) no sooner heard of the fate of +the vessel and her crew than he hastened with his party to the spot; it +was owing to the investigation which then took place that the conclusion +was arrived at that all had been murdered. What remained for Mooetara to +do (according to their savage notion of what was right) was to take ample +revenge on all the hostile tribes that might fall in his way, whether our +poor countrymen met their deaths through accident or treachery. Mooetara +instantly commenced the work of destruction; and, having made his +vengeance complete, he returned laden with spoil. The promptness with +which he acted on this melancholy occasion greatly increased the feelings +of security possessed by those Englishmen settled on the banks of the +river, as it proved to them that he was both able and willing to protect +them, and though the dead could not be restored, yet he had inflicted an +awful punishment on their murderers.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_LVI"></a><h2>CHAPTER LVI</h2> + +<h3>FAREWELL TO NEW ZEALAND</h3> + +<p>On the 21st a fair wind and smooth sea favoured our departure. Early in +the morning the natives who were on board assured us everything would +facilitate our passing over the bar with safety, and they prepared to +leave the ship. When the moment of separation came, it caused a great +deal of emotion on both sides. I must confess I felt much affected when I +came to rub noses, shake hands, and say "Farewell" to these kind-hearted +people. I saw them go over the ship's side, and reflected that I should +never behold them more. There is always something repugnant to our +feelings in the idea of separating from any being for ever; and as, in +this instance, I felt assured that this was our last time of meeting, it +cast a gloom over the pleasure the fair wind and smooth sea would +otherwise have afforded me. As we fell down towards the river's mouth, +and, indeed, as long as their canoes were to be seen, they kept waving +their hands towards us.</p> + +<p>Thus terminated my visit to the islands of New Zealand. I had arrived +with feelings of fear and disgust, and was merely induced to take up a +temporary residence amongst the natives, in hopes of finding something +new for my pencil in their peculiar and picturesque style of life. I left +them with opinions, in many respects, very favourable towards them. It +is true, they are cunning and over-reaching in trade, and filthy in their +persons. In regard to the former, we Europeans, I fear, set them a bad +example; of the latter, they will gradually amend. Our short visit to +Kororarika greatly improved them in that particular. All took great pains +to come as clean as possible when they attended our "evening +tea-parties." In my opinion, their sprightly, free, and independent +deportment, together with their kindness and attention to strangers, +compensates for many defects.</p> + +<p>On looking round upon their country, an Englishman cannot fail to feel +gratified when he beholds the good already resulting to these poor +savages from their intercourse with his countrymen; and they themselves +are fully sensible of, and truly grateful for, every mark of kindness +manifested towards them. They have stores full of the finest Indian corn, +which they consider a great luxury, a food which requires little trouble +in preparing, keeps well, and is very nutritious. It is but a few years +since this useful grain was introduced amongst them; and I sincerely hope +this introduction may be followed up, not only by our sending out to them +seeds of vegetables and fruits, but by our forwarding to them every +variety of quadruped which can be used for food. Abundance of the finest +water-melons are daily brought alongside vessels entering their ports; +these, in point of flavour, are superior to any I ever met with. I have +no doubt every variety of European produce essential to the support of +life would thrive equally well; and as food became abundant, and luxuries +were introduced, their disgusting feasts on human flesh would soon be +discontinued altogether.</p> + +<p>We were soon at sea, and speedily felt considerable apprehensions as to +the safe termination of our voyage. Our vessel (the brig Governor +Macquarie) we well knew was a leaky one, though her leaks did not +distress us on the outward voyage, she being then only in ballast trim; +but now that she was loaded to the water's edge, and the winter coming +on, we became greatly alarmed for her. Another disagreeable circumstance +was having no bread or flour on board. To obviate the first evil, and to +save the sailors a great deal of hard labour, our Captain offered to give +a passage to Sydney to several natives, who accepted his offer, they +being always anxious to see the colony; we likewise had on board the +great Chief from the Thames, who had caused us so much trouble at +Kororarika. These men, being fine, strong, active young fellows, were +indefatigable in their exertions at the pumps; and though we had to +contend with much heavy weather, and contrary winds, they kept our vessel +pretty dry. The want of bread was not so easily remedied; though our +Captain treated it lightly, saying he was sure of getting a supply by +making a requisition to the missionaries. He accordingly waited upon +them, and acquainted them with our distressed condition; they had plenty +(for only a few weeks previously they had received a large supply), and +as we knew their agent at Sydney, Mr. Campbell, we had no doubt of +procuring a sufficiency from them to carry us home; but in this we were +disappointed. Captain Kent did not ask them for a supply as a gift, but +solicited merely the <i>loan</i> of a cask or two till we arrived at Sydney, +when he guaranteed that the owners of the brig should return the same +quantity into the missionary storehouse there. The little monosyllable +<i>No</i> was again put in requisition, with this qualification—"that they +did not like the Botany Bay skippers." Through their "dislike," the +passengers and seamen of the brig might have gone unprovided to sea, had +not a "worldly-minded" whaler (fortunately for us) at that critical +moment come into port, who, the instant he heard of the ill-success of +our entreaty, vented his indignation in pretty coarse language, and said, +"if it detained his vessel a week, he would supply us;" and he kept his +word; he gave us a bountiful supply, which rendered us comfortable during +the whole way home.</p> + +<p>It was most interesting to observe our savages when we got well out to +sea. They soon appeared to become accustomed to their novel situation, +and seemed to feel quite at home and at their ease "on board ship." Their +exertions at the pumps were indefatigable. I felt convinced they thought +that during all voyages the same labour was gone through to keep the +vessel afloat; and as it only required strength and exertion, they +cheerfully took that department entirely to themselves, especially as +they soon perceived how useless they were when they attempted to perform +any other duty on board of the brig, as their knowledge of voyaging +extended no further than the distance they go in their own canoes, which, +though very beautiful, are sad leaky things at sea; and as, during the +time they are out, the greater part of the crew are baling the water out +of them, they thought the leaky state of our vessel was no uncommon +occurrence. But however cheerfully they worked during the day, nothing +could induce them to "turn out" at night; they always stowed themselves +away, but in what part of the vessel I never could conjecture. They have +a dread of some unknown evil spirit, which they imagine has power over +them at night; and this supposition makes them terrible cowards in the +dark.</p> + +<p>The second day after we were at sea, I saw a group of savages lying round +the binnacle, all intently occupied in observing the phenomenon of the +magnetic attraction; they seemed at once to comprehend the purpose to +which it was applied, and I listened with eager curiosity to their +remarks upon it.</p> + +<p>"This," said they, "is the white man's God, who directs them safely to +different countries, and then can guide them home again." Out of +compliment to us, and respect for its wonderful powers, they seemed much +inclined to worship this silent little monitor.</p> + +<p>During our voyage to Port Jackson we experienced a succession of +southerly gales, which Captain Kent informed me were very prevalent at +this season of the year. Notwithstanding all our exertions to prevent it, +we were carried considerably to leeward of the port. We made Lord Howe's +Islands, whose high and bold features rise, as it were, out of the ocean; +as we passed close to them, we perceived they were well wooded and +watered; and one of the men, who had been on shore there, informed me that +there was a tolerably good harbour for small craft. A few miles to the +southward of these islands is Ball's Pyramid, a most singular and +sublime-looking rock, rising perpendicularly out of the sea to a height +of a thousand feet; the base of it is enveloped in perpetual surf, +dashing and climbing up its craggy sides. Its appearance, as we saw it, +relieved by the setting sun, and the coming on of a stormy night, was +awful in the extreme!</p> + +<p>Nothing could exceed the delight manifested by our New Zealanders as we +sailed up Port Jackson harbour; but, above all, the windmills most +astonished them. After dancing and screaming with joy at beholding them, +they came running and asking me "if they were not gods." I found they +were inclined to attach that sacred appellation to most things they could +not understand; they did so when they first became possessed of their +muskets, and actually worshipped them, until they discovered how soon +they got out of repair, and then, notwithstanding all the prayers they +could bestow upon them, they would not mend again of their own accord.</p> + +<p>Our Chief from the Thames, who had a great idea of his own dignity, +commenced adorning his person, as he felt convinced the Governor would +instantly grant him an audience when he came on shore. All our lamps were +emptied to add a more beautiful gloss to his hair and complexion; his +whole stock of feathers and bones were arranged to the greatest +advantage. He at length became quite enraged when he found that he was +allowed to sit two days on our deck, amongst all manner of dirty porters +and sailors, without either being visited or sent for; and he was loud in +his reproaches to us for having deceived him. We certainly were to blame +in having induced him to believe we had any influence with the Governor, +for however politic we (who had lived in New Zealand) might think it, to +pay some attentions to these simple savages, his Excellency, +unfortunately, thought otherwise; and though the Chief, attended by his +followers, used to sit in the verandah at Government House from morning +till night, the Governor never once deigned to speak to them, and they +were, in consequence, constantly coming to me with complaints. At length +they told me that unless they obtained an audience from our Chief they +should consider it so great an insult that they would revenge it upon all +the Europeans they could get into their power; and I, well knowing that +several families were settled in that part of the country wherein this +man was Chief, thought it my duty to let the Governor know, that, however +he might dislike their manners and appearance, it might lead to some +serious calamity, if he continued to refuse to give them an audience.</p> + +<p>I accordingly waited upon the Brigade Major, and explained to him how +unwise it was to treat these men with such undisguised contempt. The +result was, the Governor saw the affair in the same point of view as +myself, and condescended to meet them and converse with them for about +five minutes; and with that they were satisfied. Other heads of +departments (civil and military) behaved differently, and evidently felt +a pleasure in having them with them. The Commander of the troops suffered +them to sit at the same table with himself and officers, and had the +war-dance performed in the mess-room, which I thought would have brought +the house down upon our heads. He likewise permitted them to fall into +the ranks with the soldiers, which pleased them beyond everything, +inasmuch as they considered it a higher honour in being permitted to +stand by our warriors on the martial parade than to take food with our +Chiefs at their own table!</p> + +<p>The Attorney-General of the colony took a particular interest in these +savages, and gave a large party, to which they were invited. Several of +the visitors on this occasion came out of curiosity to see how these +cannibals would conduct themselves, expecting, no doubt, to witness a +display of disgusting gluttony; but in that they were disappointed, for +never did any set of men behave with greater decorum than they did.</p> + +<p>On being apprised of this invitation, they were all most anxious to +obtain European dresses, and when we refused to lend them ours, they +requested of our servants the loan of a suit. This being denied them +also, with the little money they had they attempted to bargain for whole +suits of <i>convict</i> dresses, in order to make their <i>debut</i> in style at +the table of the Attorney-General! When I discovered this to be the case, +I explained to them the impropriety of their conduct, and roused their +pride by pointing out to them the absurdity of men of their high rank in +their own country wishing to appear in the cast-off dress of degraded +slaves, and how much more suitable it was to the dignity of their +character to appear in their own national costume. Accordingly, on the +appointed day, they met the company superbly attired in mats and +feathers; they made a splendid show at the dinner-table, and afforded +great amusement to the evening visitors. At an early hour they got very +sleepy, but were too polite to hint how much they felt oppressed by +drowsiness. I saw their eyes grow heavy, and perceived that it was +difficult for them to sit upright on their chairs. I mentioned these +symptoms to their kind host, who immediately consented to their retiring. +They accordingly withdrew into a corner of one of the adjoining rooms, +where, lying down huddled together, and covering themselves with their +mats, they were soon asleep, and gave no interruption to anyone during +the remainder of the evening.</p> + +<p>The greatest treat it was in our power to bestow on them was to take them +to a review of the troops then stationed at Sydney. The splendour of +their regimentals, the regularity of their movements, and the precision +of their firing, made them nearly mad with delight; they ran about the +plain literally wild with joy, occasionally stopping to gaze with wonder +on men performing what they deemed such prodigies. In their ecstasies +they occasionally vociferated their own furious war-whoop. Their +extravagant expressions of delight, and their many extraordinary +gestures, caused great amusement both to the military and to the +spectators assembled on the ground; and when the review was over my +savage friends were quite exhausted with fatigue and excitement.</p> + +<p>After two months' residence at Sydney we had an opportunity of procuring +a passage for them to their own country; and they departed, expressing +the greatest gratitude for our attentions towards them. They were loaded +with presents of all descriptions; for, finding they generally got what +they begged for, while here, they importuned everyone they met, and they +used daily to return home burthened with the most miscellaneous and +extraordinary jumble of commodities it was possible to conceive; for, as +everything they then beheld was new to them, and might be (they thought) +of some service to them in their own country, each trifle was of great +value in their estimation, and was carefully stowed away. They always +expressed their concern that so few muskets were given to them, and that +they were presented with ammunition in such small quantities. War-like +stores were their grand desideratum; and though they would accept of any +thing you chose to give them, yet they always had hopes they should +finally receive their favourite presents of a stocking of powder, a piece +of lead, or a musket.</p> + +<h5>THE END</h5> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="APPENDIX_I"></a><h2>APPENDIX I</h2> + +<h3>MASSACRE OF CAPT. FURNEAUX'S BOAT'S CREW</h3> + +<h3>CANNIBALISM OF THE MAORIS</h3> + +<p>[<i>The following is the account given by Captain Furneaux of the massacre +of his boat's crew, referred to in Earle's narrative on page 24.</i>]</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;"> + +<p>The Resolution, under command of Captain Cook, and the Adventure, +commanded by Captain Furneaux, sailed from Plymouth on the 13th April, +1772, to continue the exploration of New Zealand begun during Captain +Cook's first voyage. The vessels became finally separated in a gale off +Cape Palliser in October, 1773, and the two navigators did not meet again +until after Cook's return to England in July, 1775.</p> + +<p>Captain Furneaux reported that while his ship was refitting in Queen +Charlotte Sound the astronomer's tent was robbed by a party of natives. +One who was seen escaping was fired upon and wounded, when he and his +confederates made for the woods, leaving their canoe with most of the +stolen goods on the shore. "This petty larceny," Captain Furneaux +remarks, "probably laid the foundation of that dreadful catastrophe which +soon after happened," and which he thus describes:</p> + +<p>"On Friday, the 17th, we sent out our large cutter, manned with seven +seamen, under the command of Mr. John Rowe, the first mate, accompanied +by Mr. Woodhouse, midshipman, and James Tobias Swilley, the carpenter's +servant. They were to proceed up the Sound to Grass Cove to gather greens +and celery for the ship's company, with orders to return that evening; +for the tents had been struck at two in the afternoon, and the ship made +ready for sailing the next day. Night coming on, and no cutter appearing, +the captain and others began to express great uneasiness. They sat up all +night in expectation of their arrival, but to no purpose. At daybreak, +therefore, the captain ordered the launch to be hoisted out. She was +double manned, and under the command of our second lieutenant, Mr. +Burney, accompanied by Mr. Freeman, master, the corporal of marines, with +five private men, all well armed, and having plenty of ammunition and +three days' provision. They were ordered first to look into East Bay, +then to proceed to Grass Cove, and if nothing was to be seen or heard of +the cutter there, they were to go farther up the cove, and return by the +west shore. Mr. Rowe having left the ship an hour before the time +proposed for his departure, we thought his curiosity might have carried +him into East Bay, none of our people having ever been there, or that +some accident might have happened to the boat, for not the least +suspicion was entertained of the natives. Mr. Burney returned about +eleven o'clock the same night, and gave us a pointed description of a +most horrible scene, described in the following relation:—</p> + +<p>"'On Saturday, the 18th, we left the ship about nine o'clock in the +morning. We soon got round Long Island and Long Point. We continued +sailing and rowing for East Bay, keeping close in shore, and examining +with our glasses every cove on the larboard side, till near two o'clock +in the afternoon, at which time we stopped at a beach on our left going +up East Bay, to dress our dinner.</p> + +<p>"'About five o'clock in the afternoon, and within an hour after we had +left this place, we opened a small bay adjoining to Grass Cove, and here +we saw a large double canoe just hauled upon the beach, with two men and +a dog. The two men, on seeing us approach, instantly fled, which made us +suspect it was here we should have some tidings of the cutter. On landing +and examining the canoe, the first thing we saw therein was one of our +cutter's rowlock ports and some shoes, one of which among the latter was +known to belong to Mr. Woodhouse. A piece of flesh was found by one of +our people, which at first was thought to be some of the salt meat +belonging to the cutter's men, but, upon examination, we supposed to be +dog's flesh. A most horrid and undeniable proof soon cleared up our +doubts, and convinced us we were among no other than cannibals; for, +advancing further on the beach, we saw about twenty baskets tied up, and +a dog eating a piece of broiled flesh, which, upon examination, we +suspected to be human. We cut open the baskets, some of which were full +of roasted flesh, and others of fern root, which serves them for bread. +Searching others, we found more shoes and a hand, which was immediately +known to have belonged to Thos. Hill, one of our forecastle men, it +having been tattooed with the initials of his name. We now proceeded a +little way in the woods, but saw nothing else. Our next design was to +launch the canoe, intending to destroy her; but seeing a great smoke +ascending over the nearest hill, we made all possible haste to be with +them before sunset.</p> + +<p>"'At half after six we opened Grass Cove, where we saw one single and +three double canoes, and a great many natives assembled on the beach, who +retreated to a small hill, within a ship's length of the water side, +where they stood talking to us. On the top of the high land, beyond the +woods, was a large fire, from whence, all the way down the hill, the +place was thronged like a fair. When we entered the cove, a musketoon was +fired at one of the canoes, as we imagined they might be full of men +lying down, for they were all afloat, but no one was seen in them. Being +doubtful whether their retreat proceeded from fear or a desire to decoy +us into an ambuscade, we were determined not to be surprised, and +therefore, running close in shore, we dropped the grappling near enough +to reach them with our guns, but at too great a distance to be under any +apprehensions from their treachery. The savages on the little hill kept +their ground, hallooing, and making signs for us to land. At these we now +took aim, resolving to kill as many of them as our bullets would reach, +yet it was some time before we could dislodge them. The first volley did +not seem to affect them much, but on the second they began to scramble +away as fast as they could, some howling and others limping. We continued +to fire as long as we could see the least glimpse of any of them through +the bushes. Among these were two very robust men, who maintained their +ground without moving an inch till they found themselves forsaken by all +their companions, and then, disdaining to run, they marched off with +great composure and deliberation. One of them, however, got a fall, and +either lay there or crawled away on his hands and feet; but the other +escaped without any apparent hurt. Mr. Burney now improved their panic, +and, supported by the marines, leaped on shore and pursued the fugitives. +We had not advanced far from the water-side, on the beach, before we met +with two bunches of celery, which had been gathered by the cutter's crew. +A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to which the natives had +tied their canoes, whereby we were convinced this was the spot where the +attack had been made. We now searched all along at the back of the beach, +to see if the cutter was there, but instead of her, the most horrible +scene was presented to our view; for there lay the hearts, heads, and +lungs of several of our people, with hands and limbs in a mangled +condition, some broiled and some raw; but no other parts of their bodies, +which made us suspect that the cannibals had feasted upon and devoured +the rest. At a little distance we saw the dogs gnawing their entrails. We +observed a large body of the natives collected together on a hill about +two miles off, but as night drew on apace, we could not advance to such a +distance; neither did we think it safe to attack them, or even to quit +the shore to take an account of the number killed, our troop being a very +small one, and the savages were both numerous, fierce, and much +irritated. While we remained almost stupefied on the spot, Mr. Fannen +said that he heard the cannibals assembling in the woods, on which we +returned to our boat, and having hauled alongside the canoes, we +demolished three of them. During this transaction the fire on the top of +the hill disappeared, and we could hear the savages in the woods at high +words, quarrelling, perhaps, on account of their different opinions, +whether they should attack us and try to save their canoes. They were +armed with long lances, and weapons not unlike a sergeant's halbert in +shape, made of hard wood, and mounted with bone instead of iron. We +suspected that the dead bodies of our people had been divided among those +different parties of cannibals who had been concerned in the massacre, +and it was not improbable that the group we saw at a distance by the fire +were feasting upon some of them, as those on shore had been where the +remains were found, before they had been disturbed by our unexpected +visit. Be that as it may, we could discover no traces of more than four +of our friends' bodies, nor could we find the place where the cutter was +concealed. It now grew dark, on which account we collected carefully the +remains of our mangled friends, and, putting off, made the best of our +way from this polluted place. When we opened the upper part of the Sound, +we saw a very large fire about three or four miles higher up, which +formed a complete oval, reaching from the top of a hill down almost to +the water-side, the middle space being enclosed all round by the fire, +like a hedge. Mr. Burney and Mr. Fannen having consulted together, they +were both of opinion that we could, by an attempt, reap no other +advantage than the poor satisfaction of killing some more of the savages. +Upon leaving Grass Cove we had fired a volley towards where we heard the +Indians talking, but by going in and out of the boat our pieces had got +wet, and four of them missed fire. What rendered our situation more +critical, it began to rain, and our ammunition was more than half +expended. We, for these reasons, without spending time where nothing +could be hoped for but revenge, proceeded for the ship, and arrived safe +aboard before midnight.'"</p> + +<p>It is a little remarkable that Captain Furneaux had been several times up +Grass Cove with Captain Cook, where they saw no inhabitants, and no other +signs of any but a few deserted villages, which appeared as if they had +not been occupied for many years, and yet, in Mr. Burney's opinion, when +he entered the same cove, there could not be less than fifteen hundred or +two thousand people.</p> + +<p>On Thursday, the 23rd of December, the Adventure departed from, and made +sail out of, the Sound. She stood to the eastward, to clear the straits, +which was happily effected the same evening; but the ship was baffled for +two or three days with light winds before she could clear the coast. In +this interval of time the chests and effects of the ten men who had been +murdered were sold before the mast, according to an old sea custom.</p> + +<p>When Captain Cook was in the Sound on his third voyage, he learned that +the massacre arose over an unpremeditated quarrel. Kahura, who had been +active in the tragedy, told Cook that a Maori having brought a stone +hatchet to barter, the man to whom it was offered took it, and would +neither return it nor give anything for it, and on which the owner +snatched some bread from the party of Europeans, who were at dinner on +the beach, as an equivalent, and then the quarrel began. Kahura himself +had a narrow escape of being shot, while another was shot beside him; and +the Europeans, outnumbered, were surrounded and killed. It was also +stated by the natives that not one of the shots fired by the party of +Captain Furneaux led by Mr. Burney to search for the missing people had +taken effect so as to kill or even to hurt a single person.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="APPENDIX_II"></a><h2>APPENDIX II</h2> + +<h3>THE DEATH OF WHAREUMU (KING GEORGE)</h3> + +<p>The death of this Bay of Islands chief, who acted as protector to Mr. +Earle during his residence at Kororareka, is thus described by Messrs. +Hobbs and Stack, Wesleyan missionaries at Hokianga, in a letter dated +from Mangungu, Hokianga, on the 22nd March, 1828:—</p> + +<p>"On the same day that Hongi died at Whangaroa a son of the late Pomare's, +named Tiki, was killed at Waima by a chief of the tribe called +Mahurihuri. Waima is in Hokianga, and only a few miles distance from us. +The cause of the quarrel was this: Tiki had had some of his pigs stolen +by the natives of Waima, and he was seeking utu by robbing their sweet +potato plantations, for which he was shot.</p> + +<p>"As soon as the report of the young man's death reached the Bay of +Islands, 400 natives collected together, forming two divisions, under two +separate chiefs, Whareumu, or, as he is called by the Europeans, King +George, and Toi, and came to Hokianga. Toi and his party arrived first at +Waima, where he found Patuone and all the natives and other chiefs of our +district. After robbing the natives of Waima of their potatoes, etc., +peace was made, and no further evil consequences seemed likely to arise. +The next day, the 14th, Whareumu and his party arrived. He was highly +displeased with Toi for having made peace on such easy terms. He +prevailed upon him, therefore, to break his league. Whareumu was also +very insolent to Muriwai, intimated that he was a coward, and poured +contempt upon the idea of the Hokianga natives standing in their own +defence. On the morning of the 15th a quarrel ensued between the 400 Bay +of Islanders and the natives of Waima, our natives also having now become +their allies. This fray did not at the outset seem likely to be attended +with fatal results, but, as Solomon justly observes, the beginning of +strife is like the letting out of water; so it was in this instance. +Shots were fired on both sides till several were killed and wounded. At +length Muriwai, who was a pacificator, was wounded and fell. Supposing he +was killed, our natives (for the natives of Waima fled as soon as matters +assumed a serious aspect) no longer regarded matters lightly, but turned +round in great rage, for they also were in the act of retreating, and +singled out Whareumu as a satisfaction for Muriwai. Whareumu received two +balls before he was killed. The one which killed him went through his +throat. As soon as he fell all his followers fled, leaving about nine of +their companions dead on the field, amongst whom was Oro, the chief who +commenced our Whangaroa robbing. This ended the contest. Patuone and Nene +immediately took up the body of the fallen chief and made great +lamentation over him, and have since placed his body between the bodies +of their own relations as a mark of respect."</p> + + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative of a Nine Months' +Residence in New Zealand in 1827, by Augustus Earle + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEW ZEALAND IN 1827 *** + +***** This file should be named 11933-h.htm or 11933-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/1/9/3/11933/ + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram and PG Distributed Proofreaders + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Narrative of a Nine Months' Residence in New Zealand in 1827 + +Author: Augustus Earle + +Release Date: April 7, 2004 [EBook #11933] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEW ZEALAND IN 1827 *** + + + + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram and PG Distributed Proofreaders + + + + +[Illustration: A New Zealand War Speech. (From a sketch by A. Earle.)] + + + + +A NARRATIVE + +OF A + +NINE MONTHS' RESIDENCE + +IN + +NEW ZEALAND + +IN 1827 + +BY + +AUGUSTUS EARLE + +DRAUGHTSMAN TO HIS MAJESTY'S SURVEYING SHIP + +"THE BEAGLE." + +Whitecombe & Tombs Limited + +Christchurch, Wellington, and Dunedin, N.Z.; + +Melbourne and London + +1909 + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +The author of this account of New Zealand in the year 1827 was an artist +by profession. "A love of roving and adventure," he states, tempted him, +at an early age, to sea. In 1815 he procured a passage on board a +storeship bound for Sicily and Malta, where he had a brother stationed +who was a captain in the navy. He visited many parts of the +Mediterranean, accompanying Lord Exmouth's fleet in his brother's gunboat +on his Lordship's first expedition against the Barbary States. He +afterwards visited the ruins of Carthage and the remains of the ancient +city of Ptolomea, or Lepida, situated in ancient Libya. Returning to +Malta, he passed through Sicily, and ascended Mount Etna. In 1818 he left +England for the United States, and spent nearly two years in rambling +through that country. Thence he proceeded to Brazil and Chile, returning +to Rio de Janeiro, where he practised his art until the commencement of +1824. Having received letters of introduction to Lord Amherst, who had +left England to undertake the government of India, Mr. Earle left Rio for +the Cape of Good Hope, intending to take his passage thence to Calcutta. +On the voyage to the Cape the vessel by which he was a passenger touched +at Tristan d'Acunha, and was driven off that island in a gale while Mr. +Earle was ashore, leaving him stranded in that desolate land, where he +remained for six months, when he was rescued by a passing ship, the +"Admiral Cockburn," bound for Van Diemen's Land, whence he visited New +South Wales and New Zealand, returning again to Sydney. In pursuance of +his original resolution to visit India, he left Sydney in "The Rainbow," +touching at the Caroline Islands, Manilla, and Singapore. After spending +some time in Madras, where he executed many original drawings, which were +afterwards copied and exhibited in a panorama, he set out for England by +a French vessel, which was compelled by stress of weather to put into +Mauritius, where she was condemned. Mr. Earle ultimately reached England +in a vessel named the "Resource," but, being still animated by the desire +for travel, he accepted the situation of draughtsman on His Majesty's +ship "Beagle," commanded by Captain Fitzroy, which in the year 1831 left +on a voyage of discovery that has been made famous by the observations of +Charles Darwin, who accompanied the expedition in the capacity of +naturalist. + +The notes which furnished the materials for this book were made by Mr. +Earle during his first visit to New Zealand, in 1827. They are valuable +as setting forth the impressions formed by an educated man, who came into +the primitive community then existing at Hokianga and the Bay of Islands, +without being personally connected either with the trading community, +the missionaries, or the whalers. It should not be inferred from the +reflections Mr. Earle casts upon the missionaries that he was himself an +irreligious man, because the journal of his residence on Tristan d'Acunha +shows that, while living there, he read the whole service of the Church +of England to that little community every Sunday, and his diary in many +places exhibits a reverence for Divine things. It may, however, be said +in extenuation of the lack of hospitality on the part of the missionaries +of which he complains, that many of the early residents and European +visitors to New Zealand were of an undesirable class, and that they +exercised a demoralising influence upon the Maoris. It was not easy for +the missionaries to consort, upon terms of intimacy, with their +fellow-countrymen whose relations with the Natives were such as they must +strongly condemn. Earle's narrative is interesting because it conveys a +realistic description of the Maoris before their national customs and +habits had undergone any material change through association with white +settlers. In dealing with Maori names, Mr. Earle, having at that period +no standard of orthography to guide him, followed the example of Captain +Cook in spelling words phonetically. Except in the case of certain +well-known places the original spelling has been retained in the present +edition of his book. + + + + +CONTENTS. + +CHAPTER I. + +VOYAGE FROM SYDNEY +WRECKS AT HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER II. + +MAORI WELCOME +NATIVE CHARACTERISTICS +EUROPEANS AT HOKIANGA +CANNIBALISM + + +CHAPTER III. + +A MAORI VILLAGE +THE TAPU ON CROPS +MAORI ART + + +CHAPTER IV. + +HOKIANGA RIVER +MR. HOBBS' MISSION +THE TIMBER INDUSTRY + + +CHAPTER V. + +AN OVERLAND JOURNEY + + +CHAPTER VI. + +THE CHIEF PATUONE + + +CHAPTER VII. + +A PICTURESQUE SCENE + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +IN THE DENSE FOREST + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE KERIKERI MISSION +INHOSPITABLE RECEPTION + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE BAY OF ISLANDS + + +CHAPTER XI. + +MASSACRE OF THE BOYD + + +CHAPTER XII. + +KORORAREKA +A MIXED COMMUNITY +SHULITEA (KING GEORGE) + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +MAORI CONSERVATISM + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +A MISSION SETTLEMENT +THE MECHANIC MISSIONARY + + +CHAPTER XV. + +VISIT FROM HONGI +HONGI'S COAT OF MAIL + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +INTERVIEW WITH HONGI + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +A MAORI WELCOME + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +INLAND EXCURSIONS + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +MAORI WOMEN'S CAMP + + +CHAPTER XX. + +LOADING SPARS, HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +DEATH OF A CHIEF +TRADING WITH MAORIS + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +BRUTAL MURDER OF A WIFE + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +ANOTHER JOURNEY +INTERIOR OF THE COUNTRY + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +A WAR PARTY + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +HOSTILE DISPLAY +THE LAW OF MURU + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +A SEDUCTION AND ITS CONSEQUENCES + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +LAW OF RETALIATION + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +A WAR EXPEDITION +CANNIBALISM + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +MAORI SLAVERY + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +PIRACY BY CONVICTS + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +N.Z. CLIMATE +THE STARVATION CURE + + +CHAPTER XXXII. + +THE ART OF TATTOOING + + +CHAPTER XXXIII. + +TRIBAL GOVERNMENT +MAORI BELIEFS +THE CUSTOM OF TAPU +SUNDAY OBSERVANCE +MASSACRE OF FRENCH NAVIGATOR MARION AND PARTY + + +CHAPTER XXXIV. + +THE MAORIS' VIEW OF CHRISTIANITY + + +CHAPTER XXXV. + +HONGI'S THREATS +PREPARING FOR WAR + + +CHAPTER XXXVI. + +ARRIVAL OF A WARSHIP + + +CHAPTER XXXVII. + +WHALERS AND MISSIONARIES + + +CHAPTER XXXVIII. + +THREATENED WAR + + +CHAPTER XXXIX. + +CONSTRUCTION OF A PA + + +CHAPTER XL. + +A SHAM FIGHT + + +CHAPTER XLI. + +AN EXCITING INCIDENT +VISIT OF A GREAT TOHUNGA + + +CHAPTER XLII. + +VICTORIOUS WARRIORS +TREATMENT OF PRISONERS +BAKED HEADS + + +CHAPTER XLIII. + +VISITS OF WHALERS + + +CHAPTER XLIV. + +SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS + + +CHAPTER XLV. + +DEATH OF HONGI + + +CHAPTER XLVI. + +A TRIBAL CONFLICT +SHULITEA (KING GEORGE) KILLED + + +CHAPTER XLVII. + +EXCITEMENT AT KORORAREKA + + +CHAPTER XLVIII. + +EARLE'S FAREWELL +MISSIONARIES ALARMED + + +CHAPTER XLIX. + +JOURNEY TO HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER L. + +EUROPEAN DEFENCES +MR. HOBBS' MESSAGE OF PEACE + + +CHAPTER LI. + +MAORI SOCIAL CUSTOMS +EUROPEAN LIAISONS WITH MAORIS +MAORI MARRIAGES + + +CHAPTER LII. + +A MAORI TANGI + + +CHAPTER LIII. + +MAORI CHARACTERISTICS +ORIGIN OF OUTRAGES +FAMILY AFFECTION + + +CHAPTER LIV. + +TRADE OF HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER LV. + +A CREW MASSACRED + + +CHAPTER LVI. + +FAREWELL TO NEW ZEALAND +MAORIS IN SYDNEY + + +APPENDIX I. + +MASSACRE OF FURNEAUX'S BOAT'S CREW +CANNIBALISM + + +APPENDIX II. + +A TRIBAL FIGHT + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + +A Maori War Speech (Frontispiece) +Patuone, a Hokianga Chief +Mission Station, Kerikeri +Scene of Boyd Massacre +Maori War Expedition +Maori Method of Tattooing +Specimens of Tattooing +Whalers at Bay of Islands + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +VOYAGE FROM SYDNEY. + + +Having made up my mind to visit the island of New Zealand, and having +persuaded my friend Mr. Shand to accompany me, we made an arrangement for +the passage with Captain Kent, of the brig Governor Macquarie, and, +bidding adieu to our friends at Sydney, in a few hours (on October 20th, +1827) we were wafted into the great Pacific Ocean. + +There were several other passengers on board, who were proceeding to New +Zealand to form a Wesleyan missionary establishment at Hokianga. Amongst +these were a Mr. and Mrs. Hobbs, who were most enthusiastic in the cause. +They had formerly belonged to the same mission at Whangaroa, when a war +which took place amongst the natives totally destroyed their +establishment; and, after enduring great varieties of suffering, they +escaped, but lost everything they possessed, except the clothes they had +on. We had a very fine wind for nine days, and on the 29th we saw a +gannet, a sure sign we were within a hundred miles of land, for these +birds are never seen at a greater distance from it. True to our +anticipations, towards the afternoon the water became discoloured, and at +midnight we saw the land. + +This interesting island, of which we now got sight, was first discovered +by that eminent and enterprising Dutch navigator, Tasman, subsequently to +the discovery of Van Diemen's Land. His voyage from Batavia in 1642, +undertaken by order of the then Governor-General of Dutch India, Anthony +Van Diemen, was one of the most important and successful ever undertaken, +for it was during this voyage that New Holland was discovered, of which +Van Diemen's Land was then supposed to form a part, the extensive island +of New Zealand being supposed to form another portion.[1] + +The slight intercourse of the discoverers with the natives had so +calamitous a termination, and the exaggerated accounts it was then a kind +of fashion to give of savages, stigmatised the New Zealanders with such a +character for treachery and cruelty, that their island was not visited +again for upwards of a century, when the immortal Cook drew aside the +veil of error and obscurity from this unexplored land, and rescued the +character of its inhabitants from the ignominy which its original +discoverers, the Dutch, had thrown upon them. This immense tract of land +was imagined by Tasman to form but one island, and he most unaptly gave +it the name of New Zealand, from its great resemblance (as was stated) to +his own country.[2] + +In 1770 Cook discovered a strait of easy access and safe navigation, +cutting the island nearly in half, thus making two islands of what had +before been imagined but one. This strait bears his name, and is often +traversed by vessels from New South Wales returning home by way of Cape +Horn. + +In 1827 His Majesty's ship Warsprite passed through this strait in +company with the Volage, twenty-eight guns, being the first English line +of battleship which had ever made the attempt. A few years since, Captain +Stewart, commanding a colonial vessel out of Port Jackson, discovered +another strait, which cut off the extreme southern point, making it a +separate island that bears his name, and now almost every year our +sealers and whalers are making additional and useful discoveries along +its coasts. + +These islands lie between lat. 34 deg. and 48 deg.S. and long. 166 deg. and 180 deg.E. +The opening of the land to which we were now opposite, and which was our +destined port, the accurate eye of Cook had observed, but did not attempt +the entrance; and it is only about ten years since, when the two store +ships, the Dromedary and Coromandel, loaded with spars on the coast, that +a small vessel attending on those ships first crossed the bar; but +although they took soundings and laid down buoys, the commanders of the +large vessels were afraid of attempting the entrance, which proved their +good sense, for their great draught of water would have rendered the +undertaking more hazardous than the risk was worth. Yet during my +residence in this country two large vessels crossed the bar, and +recrossed it heavily laden, without the slightest accident--one the +Harmony, of London, 400 tons burden; the other the Elizabeth, of Sydney, +of nearly equal tonnage--but in proof that it is not always safe, a few +months after this, two schooners of extremely light draught were lost, +though they were both commanded by men who perfectly well knew the +channels through the bar. It was a singular circumstance that both +vessels had been built in New Zealand; one, the Herald, a small and +beautiful craft, built by and belonging to the Church missionaries, the +crew of which escaped, but the disastrous circumstances attending the +wreck of the other, called the Enterprise, I shall relate in their proper +place. + +The morning of the 30th was foggy and unfavourable, but it suddenly +cleared up, and exhibited the entrance of Hokianga right before us, and a +light breeze came to our aid to carry us in. The entrance to this river +is very remarkable, and can never be mistaken by mariners. On the north +side, for many miles, are hills of sand, white, bleak, and barren, ending +abruptly at the entrance of the river, which is about a quarter of a mile +across. Where the south head rises abrupt, craggy, and black, the land +all round is covered with verdure; thus, at the first glimpse of these +heads from the sea, one is white, the other black. + +The only difficulty attending the entrance (and, indeed, the only thing +which prevents Hokianga from being one of the finest harbours in the +world) is the bar. This lies two miles from the mouth of the river, its +head enveloped in breakers and foam, bidding defiance and threatening +destruction to all large ships which may attempt the passage. However, +we fortunately slipped over its sandy sides, undamaged, in three-fathom +water. + +After crossing the bar, no other obstacle lay in our way, and, floating +gradually into a beautiful river, we soon lost sight of the sea, and were +sailing up a spacious sheet of water, which became considerably wider +after entering it; while majestic hills rose on each side, covered with +verdure to their very summits. Looking up the river, we beheld various +headlands stretching into the water, and gradually contracting in width, +till they became fainter and fainter in the distance, and all was lost in +the azure of the horizon. The excitement occasioned by contemplating +these beautiful scenes was soon interrupted by the hurried approach of +canoes, and the extraordinary noises made by the natives who were in +them. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 1: The Dutch and Spanish had discovered N.E. Australia as early +as 1606, and the Dutch had on several occasions visited the N.W. and +South coasts of the Continent before the date of Tasman's voyage.] + +[Footnote 2: The name given by Tasman was Staten Landt. The name New +Zealand was bestowed in 1643 by the States-General of the United +Provinces.] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES. + + +As the arrival of a ship is always a profitable occurrence, great +exertions are made to be the first on board. There were several canoes +pulling towards us, and from them a number of muskets were fired, a +compliment we returned with our swivels; one of the canoes soon came +alongside, and an old chief came on board, who rubbed noses with Captain +Kent, whom he recognised as an old acquaintance; he then went round and +shook hands with all the strangers, after which he squatted himself down +upon the deck, seeming very much to enjoy the triumph of being the first +on board. But others very soon coming up with us, our decks were crowded +with them, some boarding us at the gangway, others climbing up the chains +and bows, and finding entrances where they could. All were in perfect +good humour, and pleasure beamed in all their countenances. + +I had heard a great deal respecting the splendid race of men I was going +to visit, and the few specimens I had occasionally met with at Sydney so +much pleased me, that I was extremely anxious to see a number of them +together, to judge whether (as a nation) they were finer in their +proportions than the English, or whether it was mere accident that +brought some of their tallest and finest proportioned men before me. + +I examined these savages, as they crowded round our decks, with the +critical eye of an artist; they were generally taller and larger men +than ourselves; those of middle height were broad-chested and muscular, +and their limbs as sinewy as though they had been occupied all their +lives in laborious employments. Their colour is lighter than that of the +American Indian, their features small and regular, their hair is in a +profusion of beautiful curls, whereas that of the Indian is straight and +lank. The disposition of the New Zealander appears to be full of fun and +gaiety, while the Indian is dull, shy, and suspicious. + +I have known Indians in America from the north to the south--the +miserable, idiotic Botecooda of Brazil, the fierce warrior of Canada, and +the gentle and civilised Peruvian, yet in their features and complexions +they are all much alike. I observed their statures altered with their +different latitudes; the Chilians and the Canadians being nearly the +same, in figure tall, thin, and active, their climate being nearly the +same, although at the two extremes of America; while those living between +the equinoxes are short, fat, and lazy. I am persuaded that these South +Sea Islanders, though so nearly of the same complexion, still are not of +the same race, laziness being the characteristic of the American Indian +from north to south, while the New Zealanders are laborious in the +extreme, as their astonishing and minute carvings prove. The moment the +Indian tasted intoxicating spirits his valour left him, he became an +idiot and a tool in the hands of the white man. Here they have the utmost +aversion to every kind of "wine or strong drink," and very often severely +take us to task for indulging in such an extraordinary and debasing +propensity, or, as they call it, "of making ourselves mad;" but both +nations are equally fond of tobacco. + +The first thing which struck me forcibly was, that each of these savages +was armed with a good musket, and most of them had also a cartouch box +buckled round their waists, filled with ball cartridges, and those who +had fired their pieces from the canoes carefully cleaned the pans, +covered the locks over with a piece of dry rag, and put them in a secure +place in their canoes. Every person who has read Captain Cook's account +of the natives of New Zealand would be astonished at the change which has +taken place since his time, when the firing of a single musket would have +terrified a whole village. + +As we sailed up the river very slowly, the throng of savages increased to +such a degree that we could scarcely move, and, to add to our confusion, +they gave us "a dance of welcome," standing on one spot, and stamping so +furiously that I really feared they would have stove in the decks, which +our lady passengers were obliged to leave, as when the dance began each +man proceeded to strip himself naked, a custom indispensable among +themselves. + +We came to an anchor off a native village called Pakanae, where two +chiefs of consequence came on board, who soon cleared our decks of a +considerable number. We paid great attention to these chiefs, admitting +them into the cabin, etc., and it had the effect of lessening the noise, +and bringing about some kind of order amongst those who still continued +on deck. The names of these chiefs were Moetara and Akaeigh, and they +were the heads of the village opposite to which we had anchored. They +were well known to our captain, who spoke their language. They were +accustomed to the society of Europeans, also to transact business with +them; and as they were flax, timber, and hog merchants, they and the +captain talked over the state of the markets during the evening. They +were clothed in mats, called Kaka-hoos. The ladies joined our party at +supper, and we spent a very cheerful time with our savage visitors, who +both behaved in as polite and respectful a manner as the best educated +gentlemen could have done; their pleasing manners so ingratiated them +into the good opinion of the ladies, that they all declared "they would +be really very handsome men if their faces were not tattooed." + +The next day we received a visit from Mr. and Mrs. Butler, English +people, who had taken up their residence here for the purpose of trading, +and we returned with them on shore, taking our female passengers with us, +and leaving them in charge of Mrs. Butler. I determined to stroll through +the village, which is, in fact, a collection of rude huts, huddled +together without system or regularity. Dock leaves and weeds of every +description were growing luxuriantly all round them, and in many places +actually overtopping the houses, few being more than four feet high, with +a doorway about two feet. Scarcely any of them were inhabited, as at this +season of the year the greater part of the population prefer living in +the open air to remaining in their small, smoky ovens of houses. + +I had not rambled far before I witnessed a scene which forcibly reminded +me of the savage country in which I then was, and the great alteration of +character and customs a few days' sail will make. The sight to me so +appalling was that of the remains of a human body which had been roasted, +and a number of hogs and dogs were snarling and feasting upon it! I was +more shocked than surprised, for I had been informed of the character of +the New Zealanders long before my arrival amongst them; still, the +coming suddenly and unexpectedly upon a sight like this completely +sickened me of rambling, at least for that day, and I hastened back to +Mr. Butler's, eager to inquire into the particulars of the horrid +catastrophe. + +That gentleman informed me that the night of the arrival of our ship, a +chief had set one of his kookies (or slaves) to watch a piece of ground +planted with the kumara, or sweet potato, in order to prevent the hogs +committing depredations upon it. The poor lad, delighted with the +appearance of our vessel, was more intent upon observing her come to an +anchor than upon guarding his master's property, and suffered the hogs to +ramble into the plantation, where they soon made dreadful havoc. In the +midst of this trespass and neglect of orders his master arrived. The +result was certain; he instantly killed the unfortunate boy with a blow +on the head from his stone hatchet, then ordered a fire to be made, and +the body to be dragged to it, where it was roasted and consumed. + +It was now time to return on board, and we walked down to the beach for +that purpose, but it was quite low water, and the boat was full two +hundred feet off. She lay at the end of a long, slimy, muddy flat, and +while we were debating how we should manage to get to her, the native +chiefs took up the females in their arms, as though they were children, +and, in spite of all their blushes and remonstrances, carried them to the +boat and placed them safely in it, each seeming to enjoy the task. They +then returned and gave us a passage, walking as easily with us upon their +backs as if we had been no heavier than so many muskets. We took care not +to shock the feelings of the females by letting them know the tragedy so +lately acted in the village, or horrify them by telling them that one of +their carriers was the murderer! It would have been difficult to have +made them believe that such a noble-looking and good-natured fellow had +so lately imbrued his hands in the blood of a fellow creature. + +We had now been lying here two days, and the curiosity of the people did +not diminish, nor were our visitors less numerous. Parties were hourly +coming up and down the river to pay their respects to our captain, and +the report of there being numerous passengers on board greatly increased +their desire to hold intercourse with us. They all appeared anxious to +make themselves useful, some chopping wood for our cook, others assisting +the steward, in order to get what might be left on the plates, others +brought small presents of fish; in fact, all availed themselves of any +excuse to get on board; yet, notwithstanding the crowd, and the confusion +attending their movements, there was scarcely any thieving amongst them. +They have seen the detestation that theft is held in by Europeans, and +the injury it does to trade, and have, in consequence, nearly left it +off. None but the meanest slaves will now practise it, and they do so at +the risk of their lives; for, if caught in the act, and the charge is +proved against them, their heads are cut off! + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +A RAMBLE ASHORE. + + +On November 3rd we visited Pakanae, a village lying round the base of a +large conical hill, about three hundred feet high, with a fortification +on the top, which gives it its name, pa signifying in their language a +fortified place. Behind it lies a swamp, which is covered at high water, +and which adds greatly to its security; for the unsettled and war-like +spirit of the natives renders it absolutely necessary that they always +should have a place of strength near at hand to retreat to, as they never +know how suddenly their enemies may make an attack upon them. To the +right of this swamp is a beautiful valley, in a very high state of +cultivation. At the time I stood viewing it from the summit of the hill, +I was charmed with the scene of industry and bustle it presented, all the +inhabitants of the village having gone forth to plant their potatoes, +kumaras, and Indian corn. In the rear, and forming a fine, bold +background, is an immense chain of high and rugged hills, covered to +their summits with thick forests, and forming, as it were, a natural +barrier and protection to this smiling and fruitful valley, while from +their wooded sides issue innumerable small streams of clear water, which, +meeting at the base, form beautiful rivulets, and after meandering +through the valley, and serving all the purposes of irrigation, they +empty themselves into the Hokianga river. + +Standing on the spot from which I have described the above prospect, I +felt fully convinced of the frugality and industry of these savages. The +regularity of their plantations, and the order with which they carry on +their various works, differ greatly from most of their brethren in the +South Seas, as here the chiefs and their families set the example of +labour; and when that is the case, none can refuse to toil. Round the +village of Pakanae, at one glance is to be seen above 200 acres of +cultivated land, and that not slightly turned up, but well worked and +cleared; and when the badness of their tools is considered, together with +their limited knowledge of agriculture, their persevering industry I look +upon as truly astonishing. + +The New Zealanders have established here a wise custom, which prevents a +great deal of waste and confusion, and generally preserves to the planter +a good crop, in return for the trouble of sowing; namely, as soon as the +ground is finished, and the seed sown, it is _tabooed,_ that, is rendered +sacred, by men appointed for that service, and it is death to trample +over or disturb any part of this consecrated ground. The wisdom and +utility of this regulation must be obvious to every one. But, however +useful this taboo system is to the natives, it is a great inconvenience +to a stranger who is rambling over the country, for if he does not use +the greatest caution, and procure a guide, he may get himself into a +serious dilemma before his rambles be over, which had nearly been the +case with our party this day. We were ascending a hill, for the purpose +of inspecting a New Zealand fortification on the summit, when a little +boy joined our party, either out of curiosity, or in hopes of getting a +fish-hook from us--a thing the natives are continually asking for; but as +we had a man with us who spoke the language fluently, we did not much +regard the boy's guidance, though to us it speedily became of great +importance. We were taking a short cut, to make a quick ascent to the top +of the hill, when the little fellow uttered a cry of horror. Our +interpreter asked him what he meant, when he pointed his finger forward, +and told him to look, for the ground was tabooed. We did as he desired +us, but beheld nothing particular, till he showed us, in one of the +trees, among the branches, a large bunch of something, but we could not +make out what it was. This, he told us, was the body of a chief, then +undergoing the process of decomposition, previous to interment, which +process is witnessed by men appointed for that purpose, who alone are +permitted to approach the spot. The ground all round is tabooed, so that, +had it not been for the interference of our young guide, we should +certainly have been placed in a most distressing situation; and it is a +question if our ignorance of their customs would have been considered a +sufficient excuse for our offence. + +The top of this hill was level and square, and was capable of containing +several hundred warriors. It was cut into slopes all round, and fortified +by stockades in every direction, which rendered it impregnable. The +natives assured me its strength had been often tried. The famous warrior +Hongi had attacked it several times, but had always been defeated with +great loss. After inspecting this fortification, which excited our +admiration, we proceeded through the village at the bottom of the hill. +Nearly the whole of the inhabitants were out working in the fields. We +entered several of their habitations, and found all their property +exposed and unguarded. Even their muskets and powder, which they prize +above everything, were open to our inspection, so little idea of robbery +have they amongst themselves. But as there are many hogs and dogs roaming +at large through their villages, they are very careful to fence their +dwellings round with wicker work, to preserve them from the depredations +of these animals; and as the houses are extremely low, they have very +much the appearance of bird cages or rabbit hutches. Their storehouses +are generally placed upon poles, a few feet from the ground, and tabooed +or consecrated. Great taste and ingenuity are displayed in carving and +ornamenting these depositories. I made drawings from several of them, +which were entirely covered with carving; and some good attempts at +groups of figures, as large as life, plainly showed the dawning of the +art of sculpture amongst them. Many of the attempts of the New Zealanders +in that art are quite as good, if not better, than various specimens I +have seen of the first efforts of the early Egyptians. + +Painting and sculpture are both arts greatly admired by these rude +people. Every house of consequence is ornamented and embellished, and +their canoes have the most minute and elaborate workmanship bestowed upon +them. + +Their food is always eaten out of little baskets, rudely woven of green +flax; and as they generally leave some for their next meal, they hang +these baskets on sticks or props, till they are ready to eat again. Thus +a village presents a very singular appearance, as it is stuck full of +sticks, with various kinds of baskets hanging from them. This plan, +however, is the most rational that could be adopted, as none of their +eatables can be left on the ground, or they would become the prey of the +hogs and dogs. + +In the course of our long ramble we noticed many pretty little huts, some +having neat gardens all round them, planted with fruits and corn. One +house which we saw was built by a chief who had made several voyages to +Port Jackson, and it was really a very comfortable dwelling. It had a +high door, which we could enter without stooping, and in a separate room +was constructed a bed, after the pattern of one on ship-board. He had +likewise a large sea-chest in his house, the key of which (highly +polished) was hung round his neck as an ornament. In the course of our +walk we came to a spot on which a group of old people were sitting +sunning themselves, and they immediately all rose to welcome us. I +remarked one amongst them who seemed, from his silvery locks and feeble +limbs, to be very old. I asked him, among other questions, whether he +remembered Captain Cook. He said he did not, but well recollected Captain +Furneaux, and was one of the party which cut off and massacred his boat's +crew; and from other information which I received I believe his assertion +to have been correct.[3] + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 3: Captain Furneaux's account of this massacre is printed in +the Appendix.] + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE HOKIANGA RIVER EIGHTY YEARS AGO. + + +As our missionary passengers had by this time fixed upon the spot where +they intended to establish their settlement, and it being several miles +up the river, we got under weigh to proceed thither. The captain's +agreement being to that effect, we proceeded with the first fair wind, +about twenty miles up the stream, which was as far as we could with +safety take the vessel. The shores on each side this noble river are +composed of hills gradually rising behind each other, most of them +covered with woods to the water's edge. Not a vestige of a habitation is +to be seen, and if it had not been for the occasional sight of a canoe, +we might have imagined the country to be totally uninhabited. Opposite a +small island, or, rather, sand-bank, the vessel grounded, and had to +remain there till the next tide floated her off. It was a curious and +interesting spot, being a native pa and depot, and was entirely covered +with storehouses for provisions and ammunition. The centre was so +contrived that all assailants might be cut off before they could effect a +landing; and we were all much gratified by the judgment and forethought +displayed in this little military work. The next morning we got off, but +could not proceed far, as the shoals were becoming so numerous as to +render the navigation dangerous. But here we beheld, with both surprise +and satisfaction, a most unexpected sight, namely, a snug little colony +of our own countrymen, comfortably settled and usefully employed in this +savage and unexplored country. Some enterprising merchants of Port +Jackson have established here a dockyard and a number of sawpits. Several +vessels have been laden with timber and spars; one vessel has been built, +launched, and sent to sea from this spot; and another of a hundred and +fifty tons burthen was then upon the stocks! + +On landing at this establishment at Te Horeke, or, as the Englishmen have +called it, "Deptford," I was greatly delighted with the appearance of +order, bustle, and industry it presented. Here were storehouses, +dwelling-houses, and various offices for the mechanics; and every +department seemed as well filled as it could have been in a civilised +country. To me the most interesting circumstance was to notice the great +delight of the natives, and the pleasure they seemed to take in observing +the progress of the various works. All were officious to "lend a hand," +and each seemed eager to be employed. This feeling corresponds with my +idea of the best method of civilising a savage. Nothing can more +completely show the importance of the useful arts than a dockyard. In it +are practised nearly all the mechanical trades; and these present to the +busy enquiring mind of a New Zealander a practical encyclopaedia of +knowledge. When he sees the combined exertions of the smith and carpenter +create so huge a fabric as a ship, his mind is filled with wonder and +delight; and when he witnesses the moulding of iron at the anvil, it +excites his astonishment and emulation. + +The people of the dockyard informed me that, although it was constantly +crowded with natives, scarcely anything had ever been stolen, and all the +chiefs in the neighbourhood took so great an interest in the work that +any annoyance offered to those employed would immediately be revenged as +a personal affront. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +JOURNEY OVERLAND TO BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +Here we left the brig to unload her cargo; my friend Shand and myself +having determined to proceed overland to the Bay of Islands. An +intelligent chief, hearing of our intention, offered to accompany us +himself, and lent us two of his kookies to carry our baggage. We accepted +the chieftain's offer, and several other natives joined the party to bear +us company. + +November 7.--We all embarked in a canoe, in order to reach the head of +the river before we began our pedestrian tour; and, after paddling about +eight or nine miles further up, where the river became exceedingly +narrow, we came to another English settlement. This consisted of a party +of men who had come out in the Rosanna, the vessel employed by the New +Zealand Company. When all ideas of settling were totally abandoned by the +officers sent out for that purpose, these men chose rather to remain by +themselves than to return home; and we found them busily employed in +cutting timber, sawing planks, and making oars for the Sydney market. How +far they may prove successful, time only can develop; but as these +enterprising men had only their own industry to assist them, it could not +be expected that their establishment could bear a comparison with the one +at Te Horeke, which is supported by several of the most wealthy +merchants of New South Wales. + +As the river became narrower, the habitations of the natives were more +numerous. The chief of this district (whose name is Patuone) has a +splendid village very near the carpenters' establishment we have just +described. He had taken these industrious men under his especial +protection, and seemed very proud of having a settlement of that kind in +his territories, as it gave him power and consequence among all the +neighbouring chiefs, from the trade he carried on by means of their +exertions. + +Patuone had likewise induced the Wesleyan missionaries to settle upon his +land, about a mile below; so that the head of this river assumed quite +the appearance of a civilised colony. + +Our party now disembarked. We landed in a dense forest, which reached to +the water's edge; and our guides and slaves began to divide the loads +each was to carry on his back. Several joined us from the two English +stations on the river, and we then amounted to a very large party; all in +high spirits, and anxious to proceed on our journey. When our natives had +distributed the luggage, they loaded themselves, which they did with both +skill and quickness; for a New Zealander is never at a loss for cords or +ropes. Their plan is to gather a few handfuls of flax, which they soon +twist into a very good substitute: with this material they formed slings, +with which they dexterously fastened our moveables on their backs, and +set off at a good trot, calling out to us to follow them. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +MEETING WITH THE CHIEF PATUONE. + + +We travelled through a wood so thick that the light of heaven could not +penetrate the trees that composed it. They were so large and so close +together that in many places we had some difficulty to squeeze ourselves +through them. To add to our perplexities, innumerable streams intersected +this forest, which always brought us Europeans to a complete standstill. +The only bridges which the natives ever think of making are formed by +cutting down a tree, and letting it fall across; and over these our +bare-legged attendants, loaded as they were, scrambled with all the +agility of cats or monkeys; but it was not so with us: for several times +they seated one of us on the top of their load, and carried him over. The +chief, who accompanied us, made it his particular business to see me safe +through every difficulty, and many times he carried me himself over such +places as I dared scarcely venture to look down upon. + +In the midst of this wood we met the chief of this district, Patuone, +who, together with all his family, were employed in planting a small, +cleared patch of land. He appeared highly delighted at beholding +strangers; and all his wives came from their occupations to welcome us. +He told us that, a very few miles farther on, we should come to a village +belonging to him, where his eldest son was residing, and that we must +there pass the night. + +[Illustration: Patuone, a Notable Hokianga Chief.] + +We thanked him for the invitation, rubbed noses with him (their token of +friendship), and parted. + +Soon after parting with Patuone, we fell in with a most beautiful bull, +cow, and calf. I was amazed at seeing such fine animals in this country; +but my companions soon cleared up the mystery by informing me that they +were gifts from the missionaries, who had orders from Home to distribute +these useful animals amongst such chiefs as they thought would take care +of them: a wise and beneficial measure. These animals were tabooed, +consequently they could ramble wherever they found food most to their +liking. About dusk we arrived at the village Patuone had described to us. +We were most happy to see it, as we were heartily tired, and dripping wet +from a recent and heavy shower. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +A MAORI VILLAGE. + + +The village was situated on the side of a small, picturesque stream, one +of the branches of the Hokianga, but continued droughts had at this time +reduced it to a trifling brook. From its lofty banks, and the large trees +lying athwart it, we conjectured that during heavy rains it must be a +mighty flood. A long straggling collection of huts composed the village: +a great deal of land in its vicinity was cleared and planted, which +doubtless was the ostensible object of Patuone's people being here. As +the village lay upon the opposite shore from that on which we arrived, we +sat some time under the shelter of a large tree, to contemplate its +appearance, and to give time to arrange our party for passing the stream, +and also for my making a sketch. The red glare of the setting sun, just +touching the top of every object, beautifully illuminated the landscape; +and its rays bursting through the black woods in the background, gave the +woods an appearance of being on fire; while a beautiful rainbow, thrown +across the sky, tinged the scene with a fairy-land effect. + +As soon as they perceived us from the opposite shore, a loud shout of +welcome was raised, and all the inhabitants came out to meet us. They +carried us over the stream, conducted us to their huts, and then sat down +to gaze at and admire us. + +As we were very hungry after our fatiguing walk, we soon unpacked our +baggage, and in so doing made an unavoidable display of many valuable and +glittering objects, which roused the attention of our savage spectators, +and caused them, on the unfolding of every fresh object, to make loud and +long exclamations of wonder and amazement. As I was then "a stranger in +their land," and unaccustomed to their peculiarities, I felt a little +alarmed at their shouts; but, on a longer acquaintance with them, I found +my fears had been groundless. + +Here we saw the son of Patuone, accompanied by thirty or forty young +savages, sitting or lying all round us. All were exceedingly handsome, +notwithstanding the wildness of their appearance and the ferocity of +their looks. Let the reader picture to himself this savage group, +handling everything they saw, each one armed with a musket, loaded with +ball, a cartouch-box buckled round his waist, and a stone patoo-patoo, or +hatchet, in his hand, while human bones were hung round each neck by way +of ornament; let the scene and situation be taken into consideration, and +he will acknowledge it was calculated to make the young traveller wish +himself safe at home; but, when I suspected, I wronged them; for after +admiring everything we had brought with us (more especially our +fowling-pieces, which were very beautiful ones), they begged a little +tobacco, then retired to a distance from the hut which had been prepared +for our reception, and left us to take our supper uninterrupted; after +which they placed all our baggage in the hut, that we might be assured of +its safety. + +It proved a rainy, miserable night; and we were a large party, crowded +into a small, smoky hut, with a fire lighted in the middle; as, after +our supper, the natives, in order to have as much of our company as +possible, crowded it till it was literally crammed. However annoying this +might be, still I was recompensed by the novelty and picturesque +appearance of the scene. Salvator Rosa could not have conceived a finer +study of the horrible. A dozen men, of the largest and most athletic +forms, their cakahoos (or mat-dresses) laid aside, and their huge limbs +exposed to the red glare of the fire; their faces rendered hideous by +being tattooed all over, showing by the firelight quite a bright blue; +their eyes, which are remarkable for their fierce expression, all fixed +upon us, but with a look of good temper, co-mingled with intense +curiosity. All my fears had by this time subsided, and, being master of +myself, I had leisure to study and enjoy the scene; we smoked a social +pipe with them (for they are all immoderately fond of tobacco), and I +then stretched myself down to sleep amidst all their chattering and +smoke. + +But all my attempts at slumber were fruitless. I underwent a simultaneous +attack of vermin of all descriptions; fleas, mosquitoes, and sand-flies, +which, beside their depredations on my person, made such a buzzing noise, +that even the chattering of the natives could not drown it, or the smoke +from the fire or pipes drive them away. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +TOILSOME JOURNEY THROUGH THE FOREST. + + +Next morning, at daybreak, we took leave of our hosts, and proceeded on +our journey; we had eight miles more of this thick forest to scramble +through, and this part we found considerably worse than that we had +traversed yesterday. The roots of trees covered the path in all +directions, rendering it necessary to watch every step we took, in order +to prevent being thrown down; the supple-jacks, suspended and twining +from tree to tree, making in many places a complete net-work; and while +we were toiling with the greatest difficulty through this miserable road, +our natives were jogging on as comfortably as possible: use had so +completely accustomed them to it, that they sprung over the roots, and +dived under the supple-jacks and branches, with perfect ease, while we +were panting after them in vain. The whole way was mountainous. The +climbing up, and then descending, was truly frightful; not a gleam of sky +was to be seen, all was a mass of gigantic trees, straight and lofty, +their wide spreading branches mingling overhead, and producing throughout +the forest an endless darkness and unbroken gloom. + +After three or four hours of laborious struggling, we emerged from the +wood, and found ourselves upon an extensive plain, which, as far as the +eye could reach, appeared covered with fern. A small path lay before us, +and this was our road. The New Zealanders always travel on foot, one +after the other, or in Indian file. Their pathways are not more than a +foot wide, which to a European is most painful; but as the natives +invariably walk with the feet turned in, or pigeon-toed, they feel no +inconvenience from the narrowness. When a traveller is once on the path, +it is impossible for him to go astray. No other animal, except man, ever +traverses this country, and _his_ track cannot be mistaken, since none +ever deviate from the beaten footpath, which was in consequence, in some +places (where the soil was light), worn so deep as to resemble a gutter +more than a road. We proceeded for many miles in this unsocial manner; +unsocial, for it precludes all conversation. Our natives occasionally +gave us a song, or, rather, dirge, in which they all joined chorus. +Having at length attained the summit of a hill, we beheld the Bay of +Islands, stretching out in the distance; and at sunset we arrived at the +Kerikeri river, where there is a Church-missionary settlement. + +[Illustration: Mission Station, Kerikeri.] + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE MISSIONARY SETTLEMENT AT KERIKERI. + + +We had travelled all day through a country in which every object we saw +was of a character that reminded us forcibly of the savage community we +were with. Occasionally we met groups of naked men, trotting along under +immense loads, and screaming their barbarous songs of recognition; +sometimes we beheld an uncouthly carved figure, daubed over with red +ochre, and fixed in the ground, to give notice that one side of the road +was tabooed. An extraordinary contrast was now presented to our view, for +we came suddenly in front of a complete little English village. Wreaths +of white smoke were rising from the chimneys, of neat weather-boarded +houses. The glazed windows reflected the brilliant glow from the rays of +the setting sun, while herds of fat cattle were winding down the hills, +lowing as they leisurely bent their steps toward the farm-yard. It is +impossible for me to describe what I felt on contemplating a scene so +similar to those I had left behind me. + +According to the custom of this country, we fired our muskets, to warn +the inhabitants of the settlement of our approach. We arranged our +dresses in the best order we could, and proceeded towards the village. As +the report of our guns had been heard, groups of nondescripts came +running out to meet us. I could scarcely tell to what order of beings +they belonged; but on their near approach, I found them to be the New +Zealand youths, who were settled with the missionaries. They were habited +in the most uncouth dresses imaginable. These pious men, certainly, have +no taste for the picturesque; they had obscured the finest human forms +under a seaman's huge clothing. Boys not more than fifteen wore jackets +reaching to their knees, and buttoned up to the throat with great black +horn buttons, a coarse checked shirt, the collar of which spread half-way +over their face, their luxuriant, beautiful hair was cut close off, and +each head was crammed into a close Scotch bonnet! + +These half-converted, or, rather, half-_covered_, youths, after rubbing +noses, and chattering with our guides, conducted us to the dwellings of +their masters. As I had a letter of introduction from one of their own +body, I felt not the slightest doubt of a kind reception; so we proceeded +with confidence. We were ushered into a house, all cleanliness and +comfort, all order, silence, and unsociability. After presenting my +letter to a grave-looking personage, it had to undergo a private +inspection in an adjoining room, and the result was an invitation "to +stay and take a cup of tea!" All that an abundant farm and excellent +grocer in England could supply were soon before us. Each person of the +mission, as he appeared during our repast, was called aside, and I could +hear my own letter read and discussed by them. I could not help thinking +(within myself) whether this was a way to receive a countryman at the +Antipodes! No smile beamed upon their countenance; there were no +inquiries after news; in short, there was no touch of human sympathy, +such as we "of the world" feel at receiving an Englishman under our roof +in such a savage country as this! + +The chubby children who peeped at us from all corners, and the very +hearty appearance of their parents, plainly evidenced that theirs was an +excellent and thriving trade. We had a cold invitation to stay all night; +but this the number of our party entirely precluded; so they lent us +their boat to convey us to the Bay of Islands, a distance of about +twenty-five miles. + +As the night proved dark and stormy, and as our boat was crowded with +natives, our passage down the Kerikeri river became both disagreeable and +dangerous. The river being filled with rocks, some under, and others just +above the water, we were obliged to keep a good look-out. After +experiencing many alarms, we arrived safely at Kororareka beach about +midnight, where an Englishman of the name of Johnstone gave us a shelter +in his hut. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +In the morning we beheld two vessels at anchor in the harbour. The +Indian, whaler, of London, and the East India Company's ship Research; +which latter ship had been cruising in search of the wreck of the vessels +under the command of La Perouse, and had completely elucidated the +circumstances relating to that event. The Bay of Islands is surrounded by +lofty and picturesque hills, and is secured from all winds. It is full of +lovely coves, and a safe anchorage is to be found nearly all over it; +added to this, a number of navigable rivers are for ever emptying +themselves into the Bay, which is spotted with innumerable romantic +islands all covered with perpetual verdure. + +It is with peculiar interest that we look upon the spot where the +illustrious Cook cast anchor after his discovery of this Bay. Some +unhappy quarrels with the natives occasioned much blood to be shed on +both sides, and for a long time caused this island to be looked upon with +horror, and avoided by all Europeans. It was the courage and enterprise +of the crews of our South Sea Whalers who exhibited these interesting +islanders in their true character, and proved to the world that it was +quite as safe to anchor in the Bay of Islands as in the harbour of Port +Jackson. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +THE MASSACRE OF THE "BOYD." + + +Since the time of Cook, and other circumnavigators of that period, the +character of these people has undergone a thorough change. Then it was +necessary when a ship anchored, that the boarding nettings should be up, +and all the arms ready for immediate use. The principal object the chiefs +had in view seemed to be to lull the commanders into a fatal security, +then to rush upon them, seize their vessel, and murder all the crew! Too +often had they succeeded, and as often have they paid most dearly for +their treachery and cruelty. In the case of the ship Boyd, though they +attained their object, they were as completely punished for their +perfidy. From their ignorance of the nature of powder, and the use of a +magazine, they blew up the ship, and vast numbers of the natives were +destroyed. Besides this calamity, they brought down upon themselves the +vengeance of every vessel that visited these shores for a long period +afterwards. As the circumstances may not be generally known, Mr. Berry's +letter, relating the particulars of that melancholy, yet interesting +event, is here inserted:-- + + "Ship, City of Edinburgh, + "Lima, Oct. 20, 1810. + Sir,-- + + I am very sorry to have the painful task of introducing myself to + you, with an account of the loss of your ship Boyd, Captain + Thompson. + + Towards the end of last year I was employed in the Bay of + Islands, New Zealand, in procuring a cargo of spars for the Cape + of Good Hope. About the middle of December the natives brought me + an account of a ship's being taken at Whangaroa, a harbour about + fifty miles to the N.W. At first we were disposed to doubt the + truth of this report, but it every day became more probable, from + the variety of circumstances they informed us of; and which were + so connected as appeared impossible for them to invent. + Accordingly, about the end of the month, when we had finished our + cargo, although it was a business of some danger, I determined to + go round. + + "I set out with three armed boats: we experienced very bad + weather, and after a narrow escape were glad to return to the + ship. As we arrived in a most miserable condition, I had then + relinquished all idea of the enterprise; but having recruited my + strength and spirits, I was shocked at the idea of leaving any of + my countrymen in the hands of savages, and determined to make a + second attempt. We had this time better weather, and reached the + harbour without any difficulty. Whangaroa is formed as + follows:--First, a large outer bay, with an island at its + entrance; in the bottom of this bay is seen a narrow opening, + which appears terminated at the distance of a quarter of a mile; + but, upon entering it, it is seen to expand into two large + basins, at least as secure as any of the docks on the banks of + the Thames, and capable of containing (I think) the whole British + navy. We found the wreck of the Boyd in shoal water, at the top + of the harbour, a most melancholy picture of wanton mischief. The + natives had cut her cables, and towed her up the harbour till she + had grounded, and then set her on fire, and burnt her to the + water's edge. In her hold were seen the remains of her + cargo--coals, salted seal skins, and planks. Her guns, iron, + standards, etc., were lying on the top, having fallen in when her + decks were consumed. + + "The cargo must have been very valuable; but it appears that the + captain, anxious to make a better voyage, had come to that port + for the purpose of filling up with spars for the Cape of Good + Hope. + + "Not to tire you with the minutia of the business, I recovered + from the natives a woman, two children, and a boy of the name of + Davies, one of your apprentices, who were the only survivors. I + found also the accompanying papers, which, I hope, may prove of + service to you. I did all this by gentle measures, and you will + admit that bloodshed and revenge would have answered no good + purpose. The ship was taken the third morning after her arrival. + The captain had been rather too hasty in resenting some slight + theft. Early in the morning the ship was surrounded by a great + number of canoes, and many natives gradually insinuated + themselves on board. Tippahee, a chief of the Bay of Islands, and + who had been twice at Port Jackson, also arrived; he went into + the cabin, and, after paying his respects to the captain, begged + a little bread for his men; but the captain received him rather + slightingly, and desired him to go away, and not trouble him, as + he was busy. + + "The proud old savage (who had been a constant guest at the + Governor's table at Port Jackson) was highly offended at this + treatment, immediately left the cabin, and, after stamping a few + minutes on the deck, went into his canoe. After breakfast the + captain went on shore with four hands, and no other arms but his + fowling-piece. From the account of the savages, as soon as he + landed they rushed upon him; he had only time to fire his piece, + and it killed a child. As soon as the captain left the ship, + Tippahee (who remained alongside in his canoe) came again on + board. A number of sailors were repairing sails upon the quarter + deck, and the remainder were carelessly dispersed about, and + fifty of the natives were sitting on the deck. In a moment they + all started up, and each knocked his man on the head: a few ran + wounded below, and four or five escaped up the rigging, and in a + few seconds the savages had complete possession of the ship. The + boy Davies escaped into the hold, where he lay concealed for + several days, till they were fairly glutted with human blood, + when they spared his life. The woman says she was discovered by + an old savage, and that she moved him by her tears and embraces; + that he (being a subordinate chief) carried her to Tippahee, who + allowed him to spare her life. She says, that at this time the + deck was covered with human bodies, which they were employed in + cutting up; after which they exhibited a most horrid dance and + song in honour of their victory, and concluded by a hymn of + gratitude to their god. + + "Tippahee now took the speaking trumpet, and hailing the poor + wretches at the mast-head, told them that he was now captain, + and that they must in future obey his commands. He then ordered + them to unbend the sails, they readily complied; but when he + ordered them to come down they hesitated, but he enforced prompt + obedience by threatening to cut away the masts. When they came + down he received them with much civility, and told them he would + take care of them; he immediately ordered them into a canoe, and + sent them on shore. A few minutes after this the woman went on + shore with her deliverer. The first object that struck her view + was the dead bodies of these men, lying naked on the beach. As + soon as she landed a number of men started up, and marched + towards her with their patoo-patoos. A number of women ran + screaming betwixt them, covered her with their clothes, and by + tears and entreaties saved her life. + + "The horrid feasting on human flesh which followed would be too + shocking for description. The second mate begged his life at the + time of the general massacre; they spared him for a fortnight, + and then killed and eat him. I think if the captain had received + Tippahee with a little more civility, that he would have informed + him of his danger, and saved the ship; but that from being + treated in the manner I have mentioned, he entered into the plot + along with the others. + + "I assure you it has been a most unpleasant thing for me to write + about, and I could only have been induced to do it from a sense + of duty, and a desire to give you all the information in my + power, which I suppose may be of some use. + + "I am, Sir, + "Your obedient humble servant, + "ALEXANDER BERRY." + +Considering Mr. Berry's limited acquaintance with these islanders, and +the horror of the scene before him, his is a good and an impartial +account; but facts which have been obtained subsequently have exonerated +the natives to a certain extent. By repeated conversations I have held +with several chiefs who were engaged in this dreadful affair, and from +information I procured at Sydney, I have no doubt but that the Captain +himself was the most in fault. + +[Illustration: Whangaroa, Scene of the "Boyd" Massacre.] + +He was commissioned by the Government of New South Wales to land a native +chief named Philip at New Zealand, whom he subjected to a cruel and +impolitic punishment. This man, smarting from his stripes, and burning +with a desire to revenge his dishonourable treatment, excited all his +friends to the commission of that bloody massacre. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +THE FIRST SETTLEMENT AT KORORAREKA. + + +The tragic fate of the Boyd's crew is now fast sinking into oblivion; +and, like the islanders of Hawaii, after the murder of Cook, they seem to +wish to obliterate the remembrance of their disgraceful conduct by a kind +and friendly intercourse with our nation. The severe chastisement which +they have always received from us after a treacherous action, has proved +to them how little they gain by so debasing a line of conduct; and as +they are most anxious to possess many of our productions, they seem to +have come to a resolution to abandon their former system; which, if they +may not be sensible of the injustice of, they see is destructive to their +own interests; and now every chief is as solicitous for the safety of a +European vessel as he would have been formerly for its destruction. + +They have not only lost a portion of their ferocity, but also much of +their native simplicity of character, which, in all parts of the world, +is so highly interesting a study for the traveller. Their constant +intercourse with whalers, who are generally low, unpolished men, leaves +behind it a tinge of vulgarity, of which the native women retain the +largest portion. In many instances, they quite spoil their good looks, by +half adopting the European costume. Those who are living in the +retirement of their own villages have a natural ease and elegance of +manner, which they soon lose after their introduction to our rough +sailors. I have seen a party of very handsome girls, just landing from +one of the whalers, their beautiful forms hid under old greasy red or +checked shirts, generally put on with the hind parts before. In some +cases the sailors, knowing their taste for finery, bring out with them, +from London, old tawdry gowns, and fierce coloured ribands. And thus +equipped, they come on shore the most grotesque objects imaginable, each +highly delighted with her gaudy habiliments. + +Kororareka beach, where we took up our residence, seemed the general +place of rendezvous for all Europeans whom chance might bring into this +bay. At this time there were two large vessels lying at anchor within a +quarter of a mile of the shore, and I was informed there were sometimes +as many as twelve or thirteen. + +The spot is a most delightful one, being about three-quarters of a mile +in extent, sheltered by two picturesque promontories, and possessing a +fine circular, firm, sandy beach, on which there is seldom much surf, so +that boats can at all times land and haul up. Scattered amongst the +rushes and small bushes is seen a New Zealand village, which at first +landing is scarcely perceptible, the huts being so low. Some of them are +of English design, though of native workmanship. These are generally the +dwellings of some Europeans, who are of so doubtful a character that it +would be difficult to guess to what order of society they belonged +previous to their being transplanted amongst these savages. + +I found a respectable body of Scotch mechanics settled here, who came out +in the New Zealand Company's ship Rosanna, and who determined to remain +at Kororareka. Their persevering industry as yet has been crowned with +success, and they seem well pleased with the prospects before them. + +Here, these hardy sons of Britain are employed in both carrying on and +instructing the wondering savage in various branches of useful art. Here +the smith has erected his forge, and his sooty mansion is crowded by +curious natives, who voluntarily perform the hardest and most dirty work, +and consider themselves fully recompensed by a sight of his mysterious +labours, every portion of which fills them with astonishment. Here is +heard daily the sound of the sawpit, while piles of neat white planks +appear arranged on the beach. These laborious and useful Scotchmen +interfere with no one, and pursue successfully their industrious career, +without either requiring or receiving any assistance from Home. + +But there is another class of Europeans here, who are both useless and +dangerous, and these lower the character of the white people in the +estimation of the natives. These men are called "Beach Rangers," most of +whom have deserted from, or have been turned out of whalers for crimes, +for which, had they been taken Home and tried, they would have been +hanged; some few among them, having been too lazy to finish the voyage +they had begun, had deserted from their ships, and were then leading a +mean and miserable life amongst the natives. + +There is still a third class of our countrymen to be met with here, whose +downcast and sneaking looks proclaim them to be runaway convicts from New +South Wales. These unhappy men are treated with derision and contempt by +all classes; and the New Zealanders, being perfectly aware of their state +of degradation, refuse all intercourse with them. They are idle, +unprincipled, and vicious in the extreme, and are much feared in the Bay +of Islands; for when by any means they obtain liquor, they prove +themselves most dangerous neighbours. + +My friend Shand and myself were most comfortably situated. An intimate +friend of mine (Captain Duke, of the whaler The Sisters) had, in +consequence of ill-health, taken up his residence on shore while his +vessel completed her cruise. In his hut we found comfort and safety; and +from his information and advice we were enabled to avoid the advances of +all whom his experience had taught him were to be shunned. + +On terms of the closest intimacy, and with his hut adjoining that of my +friend Captain Duke, lived Shulitea[4] (or King George, as he styled +himself), a chief of great power, who controlled the whole of the +district where we were. We all felt grateful to him for his +manifestations of friendship, and at the same time were conscious of +enjoying a greater degree of security by his proximity. He was the first +chief who offered protection to "the white people," and he has never been +known to have broken his engagement. An unexpected and remarkable +instance of his adherence to their interests, in spite of temptation, +took place a few years since, which I deem worthy of relation here. + +The ship Brompton, in endeavouring to work out of the bay, by some +accident got on shore, and finally became a complete wreck. This fine +vessel, with a valuable cargo on board, lay helpless on the beach, and +the crew and passengers expected nothing less than plunder and +destruction. The natives from the interior, hearing of the circumstance, +hastened down in vast numbers to participate in the general pillage. But +King George summoned all his warriors to his aid, and with this party +placed himself between the wreck and those who came to plunder it. I was +informed by several who were present at the time, that, after declaring +that "not an article should be taken till himself and all his party were +destroyed," he advanced, and thus explained his reasons for protecting +the strangers and their property:-- + +"You" (said King George) "come from the interior; all of you think only +of what you can get, without considering the consequences, which, indeed, +are of little import to you, living, as you do, out of reach of the +reproaches and vengeance of the white men. But look how differently I am +situated. I live on the beach; this Bay is my residence; I invite the +white men to come and trade here under the promise of my protection; they +come; several years of profitable trading have passed between us. King +George, they say, is a good man; now an accident has befallen one of +their ships in my territory, what must King George do? Why, he _must_ +assist them; which he _will_ do, and defend them against everyone who +shall attempt to injure them." In consequence of this speech, and his +exertions, not a thing was taken from the wreck by the savages who had +collected for that purpose. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 4: The chief referred to by Mr. Earle as Shulitea, or King +George, was a noted Bay of Islands chief named Whareumu. He was killed in +a fight with the Hokianga tribes, in March, 1828. (See appendix.)] + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +MAORI NON-PROGRESSIVENESS. + + +This anecdote proves that King George and his people possessed feelings +of honour and generosity, which, if properly cultivated, might lead to +the most happy results. From the length of time these people have been +known to the Europeans, it might naturally be expected that great changes +would have taken place in their habits, manners, arts, and manufactures; +but this is not the case. Their huts are of the same diminutive +proportions as described by Captain Cook; their clothing and mats, their +canoes and paddles, are precisely the same as when that navigator +described them. When they can obtain English tools, they use them in +preference to their own; still their work is not better done. The only +material change that has taken place is in their mode of warfare. + +The moment the New Zealanders became acquainted with the nature of +firearms, their minds were directed but to one point, namely, to become +possessed of them. After many ingenious and treacherous attempts to +obtain these oft-coveted treasures, and which, for the most part, ended +in their defeat, they had recourse to industry, and determined to create +commodities which they might fairly barter for these envied muskets. +Potatoes were planted, hogs were reared, and flax prepared, not for their +own use or comfort, but to exchange with the Europeans for firearms. +Their plans succeeded; and they have now fairly possessed themselves of +those weapons, which at first made us so formidable in their eyes; and as +they are in constant want of fresh supplies of ammunition, I feel +convinced it will always be their wish to be on friendly terms with us, +for the purpose of procuring these desirable stores. I have not heard of +a single instance in which they have turned these arms against us, though +they are often grossly insulted. + +In their combats with each other, firearms are used with dreadful effect. +The whole soul of a New Zealander seems absorbed in the thoughts of war; +every action of his life is influenced by it; and to possess weapons +which give him such a decided superiority over those who have only their +native implements of offence, he will sacrifice everything. The value +attached by them to muskets, and their ceaseless desire to possess them, +will prove a sufficient security to foreigners who enter their harbours, +or remain on their coasts; as I know, from experience, that the New +Zealanders will rather put up with injuries than run the risk of +offending those who manufacture and barter with them such inestimable +commodities. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +A MISSION SETTLEMENT. + + +A few days after my arrival in the Bay, I crossed to the opposite side, +to visit the Church missionary settlement, and to deliver a letter of +introduction I had to one of the members. Here, on a beautiful bank, with +a delightful beach in front, and the entrance of the bay open to them, +the clear and blue expanse of water speckled over with fertile islands, +reside these comfortable teachers of the Gospel. The name they have given +this spot is "Marsden Vale." They very soon gave us to understand they +did not wish for our acquaintance, and their coldness and inhospitality +(I must acknowledge) created in my mind a thorough dislike to them. The +object of the mission, as it was first planned, might have been attained, +and might have proved highly beneficial to the New Zealanders; but as it +is now conducted, no good result can be expected from it. Any man of +common sense must agree with me, that a savage can receive but little +benefit from having the abstruse points of the Gospel preached to him, if +his mind is not prepared to receive them. This is the plan adopted here; +and nothing will convince these enthusiasts that it is wrong, or induce +them to change it for one more agreeable to the dictates of reason. + +Upon inquiring who and what these men were, I found that the greater part +of them were hardy mechanics (not well-educated clergymen), whom the +benevolent and well-intentioned people of England had sent out in order +to teach the natives the importance of _different trades_--a most +judicious arrangement, and which ought to be the foundation of all +missions. What could be a more gratifying sight than groups of these +athletic savages, toiling at the anvil or the saw; erecting for +themselves substantial dwellings; thus leading them by degrees to know +and to appreciate the comforts resulting from peaceful, laborious, and +useful occupations? Then, while they felt sincere gratitude for services +rendered them, at their leisure hours, and on certain days, _these_ +missionaries should attempt to expound to them, in as simple a manner as +possible, the nature of revealed religion! + +In New Zealand, the "mechanic" missionary only carries on his trade till +he has every comfort around him--his house finished, his garden fenced, +and a strong stockade enclosing all, to keep off the "pagan" savages. +This done, then commences the easy task of preaching. They collect a few +ragged urchins of natives, whom they teach to read and write their own +language--the English tongue being forbidden; and when these children +return to their families, they are despised by them, as being effeminate +and useless. + +I once saw a sturdy blacksmith in the prime of life, sitting in the midst +of a group of savages, attempting to expound to them the mysteries of our +holy redemption--perplexing his own brains, as well as those of his +auditors, with the most incomprehensible and absurd opinions. How much +better would he have been employed in teaching them how to weld a piece +of iron, or to make a nail! + +What causes much disapprobation here, is the contemptuous manner in which +they treat their own countrymen, as they receive most of them on the +outside of their stockade fence. + +On our return from Marsden Vale, our savage friends laughed heartily at +us. They had warned us of the reception we should meet with; and their +delight at seeing us again formed a strange contrast to that of their +Christian teachers, whose inhospitable dwellings we determined never to +reenter. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +A VISIT FROM HONGI. + + +A few days after my visit to the missionaries, while we were busily +employed in constructing our huts, assisted by about fifty natives, on a +sudden a great commotion took place amongst them. Each left his work and +ran to his hut, and immediately returned armed with both musket and +cartouch box: apparently all the arms in the village were mustered, and +all seemed ready for immediate use. On inquiring into the cause of all +these war-like preparations, I was informed that Hongi and his chief men +were crossing the bay in several large war canoes; and though he was +considered as a friend and ally, yet, as he was a man of such desperate +ambition, and consummate cunning, it was considered necessary to receive +him under arms, which he might take either as a compliment, or as a proof +of how well they were aware of the guest they were receiving. + +This man, Hongi, was a most extraordinary character, and a person I had +long had a great curiosity to see, his daring and savage deeds having +often been the subject of conversation in New South Wales. In his own +country he was looked upon as invulnerable and invincible. In the year +1821 he had visited England, during which he had been honoured by having +a personal interview with George the Fourth, and had received from His +Majesty several valuable presents; amongst others, were a superb suit of +chain armour, and a splendid double-barrelled gun. From possessing these +arms, so far superior to any of his neighbours, he looked upon himself +as impossible to be conquered, and commenced a career of warfare and +destruction on all his enemies, and nearly exterminated them. His friends +called him "a god," and his enemies feared him as "a devil." Last year, +Hongi made war upon, and totally annihilated, the tribe who had fifteen +years previously attacked and murdered the crew of the Boyd. He had long +determined to take revenge for that treacherous action, as he always +styled himself "the friend of the English." After this, he removed his +residence, and took possession of the conquered district. But in this his +last battle he had to fight without his invulnerable coat of mail, his +slaves having stolen it and gone over with it to the enemy. His people +were now confirmed in their superstition respecting its being proof +against shot, by his having received during the combat a bullet in the +breast, from the effects of which he is fast sinking into the grave. His +companions related the following extraordinary anecdote concerning him +after he received this wound, which proves his great presence of mind. + +His party were retreating, and the enemy were charging him vigorously; +Hongi stood alone when he received the bullet; he did not fall +immediately, and the enemy were eagerly running up to despatch him, when +he roused all his energies, and shouted aloud for the two hundred chiefs, +who lay concealed, to rush forward and fall on. The foe, hearing this, +paused, when about a dozen chiefs, and indeed, as Hongi well knew, all +that he had, suddenly made their appearance. This caused a panic; they +turned about; the pursued became the pursuers, and nearly the whole tribe +were destroyed. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +INTERVIEW WITH THE GREAT MAORI CONQUEROR. + + +He landed about a mile from the village, and we lost no time in procuring +an interpreter, with whom we went instantly to pay our respects to this +celebrated conqueror. + +We found him and his party; his slaves preparing their morning repast. +The scene altogether was highly interesting. In a beautiful bay, +surrounded by high rocks and overhanging trees, the chiefs sat in mute +contemplation, their arms piled up in regular order on the beach. Hongi, +not only from his high rank (but in consequence of his wound being +toboo'd, or rendered holy), sat apart from the rest. Their richly +ornamented war canoes were drawn up on the strand; some of the slaves +were unlading stores, others were kindling fires. To me it almost seemed +to realise some of the passages of Homer, where he describes the wanderer +Ulysses and his gallant band of warriors. We approached the chief, and +paid our respects to him. He received us kindly, and with a dignified +composure, as one accustomed to receive homage. His look was emaciated; +but so mild was the expression of his features, that he would have been +the last man I should have imagined accustomed to scenes of bloodshed and +cruelty. But I soon remarked, that when he became animated in +conversation, his eyes sparkled with fire, and their expression changed, +demonstrating that it only required his passions to be roused to exhibit +him under a very different aspect. His wife and daughter were permitted +to sit close to him, to administer to his wants, no others being allowed +so to do, on account of his taboo. + +He was arrayed in a new blanket, which completely enveloped his figure, +leaving exposed his highly-tattooed face, and head profusely covered with +long, black, curling hair, adorned with a quantity of white feathers. He +was altogether a very fine study; and, with his permission, I made a +sketch of him, and also one including the whole group. Finding we were +newcomers, he asked us a variety of questions, and, among others, our +opinion of his country. His remarks were judicious and sensible, and he +seemed much pleased with our admiration of his territory. I produced a +bottle of wine that I had brought with me, and his wife supplied him with +a few glasses, which seemed to revive and animate him. + +We were then invited to join him in a trip in one of his canoes, in which +was placed a bed for him to recline upon; his wife seated herself close +to him, while his daughter, a very pretty, interesting girl about fifteen +years of age, took a paddle in her hand, which she used with the greatest +dexterity. I took the liberty of presenting her with a bracelet, with +which she seemed highly delighted; when Hongi, perceiving that I was in a +giving mood, pointed to his beard, and asked me for a razor. Fortunately, +I had put one in my pocket on setting out, and I now presented it to +him, by which gifts we continued on terms of great sociability and +friendship. After a pleasant cruise with this (to us) extraordinary +family, and contriving to make ourselves pretty well understood, we +returned about the close of the day, and landed at the bay. All the +natives were much delighted at our confidence in them, and we were +equally gratified by their hospitality. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +A MAORI WELCOME. + + +I was much amused with the punctilios used in the visit of ceremony paid +to King George. Hongi, accompanied by about a dozen of his chiefs, +advanced towards our settlement, leaving their guns and hatchets behind +them; as they approached, all our tribe discharged their pieces in the +air. When they met, all rubbed noses (a ceremony never to be dispensed +with on formal occasions). They were then conducted by King George to his +huts on the beach, and in the enclosure in front of them the warriors +squatted on the ground. Hongi, being tabooed, or under the immediate +protection of their Atua, or God, still sat apart. Then the mother of +George, called Tururo, or the Queen, and who is regarded quite as a sybil +by the whole tribe, approached Hongi with the greatest respect and +caution, and seated herself some paces from his feet. She then began, +with a most melancholy cadence (her eyes streaming with tears and fixed +upon the ground), the song of welcome. All their meetings of ceremony or +friendship begin with the shedding of copious floods of tears; and as +Hongi's visit was such an unhoped for and unexpected honour, so much +greater in proportion was the necessity for their lamentations. This +woeful song lasted half an hour, and all the assembly were soon in tears; +and though at first I was inclined to turn it into ridicule, I was soon +in the same state myself. The pathetic strain, and the scene altogether, +was most impressive. As the song proceeded, I was informed of the nature +of the subject, which was a theme highly calculated to affect all +present. She began by complimenting the wounded warrior, deploring the +incurable state of his wound, and regretting that God was wanting him, +and was about so soon to take him from his friends! Then she recounted +some of his most celebrated deeds of valour, naming and deploring the +number of his friends who had fallen bravely in the wars, and lamenting +that the enemies who had killed them were still living! This part seemed +to affect them powerfully; and when Tururo ceased her song (being quite +exhausted) they all rose, thus demonstrating their respect and +approbation. + +This was followed by a general attack upon the good things King George +had prepared for them. The slaves came flocking in, bearing baskets of +hot kumaras, potatoes, and fish. I observed their tears had not spoiled +their appetites; they ate voraciously. After having done great honour to +the feast, they all started on their feet for a dance, which lasted a +long while, and with which they concluded the evening. + +The dances of all savage nations are beautiful, but those of the New +Zealanders partake also of the horrible. The regularity of their +movements is truly astonishing; and the song, which always accompanies a +dance, is most harmonious. They soon work themselves up to a pitch of +frenzy; the distortions of their face and body are truly dreadful, and +fill the mind with horror. Love and war are the subjects of their songs +and dances; but the details of the latter passion are by far the most +popular among them. I was astonished to find that their women mixed in +the dance indiscriminately with the men, and went through all those +horrid gestures with seemingly as much pleasure as the warriors +themselves. + +The next morning I was awakened, at daybreak, by the most dismal sounds I +had ever heard. I started up, and found it proceeded from the tribes +parting with each other. They had divided themselves into little parties, +each forming a circle, and were crying most piteously, and cutting their +flesh as a cook would score pork for roasting. On such occasions each is +armed with a sharp shell, or, if he can possibly obtain so valuable a +prize, a piece of a broken glass bottle. All were streaming with tears +and blood, while Hongi and his friends embarked in their large and +richly-ornamented canoes, and sailed from our beach. After his departure, +I soon discovered that, notwithstanding their apparent affection, King +George and his friends were most happy their visitors had left them; and +that it was more the dread of Hongi's power, than love for him, that +induced them to treat him with such respect and homage. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +EXCURSIONS IN THE INTERIOR. + + +I made several excursions into the interior, and each confirmed me in the +good opinion I had formed of the natives. I felt myself quite safe +amongst them. There is a great peculiarity in rambling through this +country; namely, the total absence of quadrupeds. There are abundance of +birds, which are so numerous at times as almost to darken the air--many +of them possessing very sweet notes; and wild ducks, teal, etc., cover +the various streams. Wherever I went I did not discover any grass, almost +every part being covered either with fern or flax; the former yielding +the natives their principal article of food, and the latter their +clothing. To this dearth of animals may be attributed the chief cause of +their ferocity and propensity to cannibalism. + +In most uncivilised countries the natives use their arms against the wild +animals of the forest. The dangers and difficulties they encounter in +overcoming them form a kind of prelude to war, and perfect them in the +use of their weapons. The rifle of the North American Indian would never +be so much dreaded did he not depend upon its produce for his +subsistence. I have myself (during my travels through North America) had +many opportunities of witnessing the certain aim they take both with the +arrow and the bullet; while those in the southern parts of that vast +continent, who depend on taking the wild cattle, acquire, by constant +practice, an equal dexterity with the _lassoo_, which those who have not +witnessed it could scarcely imagine possible. The New Zealander, while +handling a musket, is quite in a state of trepidation; and though it is +his darling weapon he seems always afraid of it, and is never sure of his +aim till he is quite close to his object. I have mentioned this fact to +several Europeans who had accompanied various tribes to battle, and they +all informed me they made a sad bungling use of the musket; their aim +would be surer if they had large and ferocious animals to hunt or contend +with. There is another circumstance that operates against their acquiring +skill in the use of the gun: they are so fond of cleaning, scrubbing, and +taking them to pieces, that in a short time the locks become loose, the +screws are injured, and they are soon rendered entirely useless, to the +great surprise and dismay of their owners, who are constantly pestering +the Europeans by bringing them _sick_ muskets (as they call them) to look +at, and put to rights, and are quite surprised that we "cannot make them +well again." They cannot be made to comprehend that every white man does +not know how to make a musket, or, at least, to repair it. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +ENTERTAINED BY MAORI WOMEN. + + +On the 24th November we took our departure from the bay, as we had to +return to Hokianga, where we had left our brig; and it was only under a +promise of making a speedy return, and remaining longer with them, that +our savage friends would suffer us to leave them. We expected to reach +the Kerikeri River before night; but in this we were disappointed. It at +length became quite dark; and the ebb tide making against us, rendered +further advance impossible. We had to seek some place of shelter for the +night, and not a hut was visible. While we were debating on what was best +to be done, we observed a light from the shore, and made for it; but, it +being low water, our boat stuck fast in the slime long before we reached +the banks; we were, consequently, obliged to wade knee-deep through the +slippery mud. We soon discovered a party of women sitting round a fire +made in the midst of the swamp. They had come here for the purpose of +procuring shell-fish; and as they are never very fastidious about shelter +or dry beds, they had determined (according to their usual custom) to +pass the night where they had been occupied during the day. This sort of +bivouac I found excessively uncomfortable. The moment we were seated the +water began to ooze out an inch or two all round us. We sought in vain +for a dry place, for we were enveloped in darkness, and surrounded by +rushes and flags six or seven feet high; but, being very much fatigued, +we slept, notwithstanding the misery of a wet bed, with a cloud of fog +for curtains. I did not wake till one of the women gave me a good shake, +and informed me that the day was well up. They had prepared us a +breakfast of hot shell-fish, which they had caught the preceding day, and +they all seemed delighted by our eating heartily of them. As we had some +biscuits in our boat, we sent for them, and gave our "fair founders of +the feast" a share; and we were all very sociable and merry. When we left +them, as it was again low water, the women carried us to our boat, and +took their leave of us amidst peals of laughter. This was another proof +to me that the English are quite safe, though travelling unguarded, +amongst these people. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +LOADING SPARS AT HOKIANGA. + + +About nine the next morning we reached the Kerikeri River; and, it being +Sunday, the members of the mission met us on landing, and used all their +endeavours to prevent our travelling on that day; but, independent of the +urgent necessity of our reaching Hokianga, the captain of our vessel, who +was with us, being particularly anxious to return on board, we continued +our journey, and at night came to a bivouac in a dense wood, so that we +now had the luxury of stretching our weary limbs on dry ground. The next +day, as we journeyed towards the river, we fell in with all our old +friends, who inquired into the particulars of our adventures, and seemed +highly delighted at our return. + +We found "all right" on board the brig; but as she was chartered to go to +Tongataboo I and my friend Shand determined to remain at New Zealand till +her return. Our principal difficulty seemed to be which side of the +island we should make choice of for a dwelling-place. When it became +known to the natives that we intended to remain with them, several chiefs +came and offered us their protection; and each would have built us a +house, but we preferred making our sojourn at the Bay of Islands. We were +often at a loss how to evade the kind importunities of our savage hosts +without giving them offence. "Is not our country as good as +theirs?"--"Are you not as safe amongst us?"--"Are we not as willing and +as capable of protecting you as Shulitea?" These were the arguments they +used; and, finally, we were obliged to inform them that we had a friend +and countryman (Captain Duke) settled on the other side, who was +preparing a house for our reception. On being informed of this +circumstance they consented to part with us, though evidently with great +reluctance. + +While we lay here the ship Harmony, of London, Captain Middleton, arrived +from Sydney for a cargo of spars. So large a vessel entering the port put +the whole district into commotion; and when the chiefs understood the +nature of her wants, and had seen the fine double-barrelled guns and +store of powder to be given as payment for the wished-for freight, they +hastened to the woods, and the axe was soon laid to the roots of the +trees. I saw them pursuing their laborious employ with alacrity. In a few +days a sufficient number of fine logs came floating down the river to +load the ship, and they were all cleared in a workmanlike manner, ready +to stow away. The chief things to induce these people to work are +firearms and powder; these are two stimulants to their industry which +never fail. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +DEATH OF A GREAT CHIEF. + + +A few days after our return to Hokianga we received intelligence that A +Rowa, the father of Mooetara, and the eldest chief in the district, was +dead. These deaths, when they occur among men of rank, are generally +accompanied by some horrible scenes of butchery among their slaves--a +common custom among all savages, but practised here (I was informed) with +peculiar cruelty. We went on shore to witness the ceremony of A Rowa's +lying in state, hoping at the same time that our presence might induce +them to dispense with some of those barbarous cruelties which generally +accompany their funeral rites. We had, indeed, every reason to think we +had conjectured rightly, for nothing of the kind took place; which was +considered by all as a circumstance somewhat remarkable. A great +concourse of savages had assembled all round the village of the deceased +chief, and there was a tremendous firing of muskets, but no particular +marks of grief. I spoke to Mooetara, and requested, as a favour, if it +were not breaking through their established rules, that he would conduct +me to the body of his father. He accordingly led me to the outside of the +village; and under a rude hut (constructed for the purpose) lay the body +of the deceased chief, closely covered up with mats, leaving only part of +the face and head exposed; in his hair was stuck a profusion of long +white feathers, by way of ornament. Two women (whom I understood were his +wives) sat close to the corpse; they were painted all over with red +ochre, and seemed to perform the parts of chief mourners. These kept up a +low moaning noise, and occasionally whisked off the flies from the face +of the deceased. The women, the corpse, the hut, and the ground for some +space round them, were all strictly tapued. Some bundles of fish, and +some calabashes filled with oil, were left close by the body, intended +for his consumption during his passage to the next world. + +I imagine that one reason of no outrage having been committed during this +solemn occasion was our brig being on the point of sailing, and previous +to her departure a great deal of traffic was expected to be carried on +with the natives, for there was still a considerable quantity of muskets +undisposed of; and I think, in this instance, avarice overcame filial +affection--the minds of the chief's family being so intent upon obtaining +good bargains, that they had not time to sit and mourn over their +departed parent, nor to work themselves up into a paroxysm of passion +sufficiently violent to cause them to murder their slaves. This afforded +me a convincing proof that as soon as they are occupied by commerce, or +the useful arts, their barbarous rites will gradually be discontinued, +and will speedily cease altogether. + +Our brig having sailed, we were again alone with these wild yet +interesting people. We expected our stay might be about six months, and +had provided a stock-in-trade, consisting of a barrel of powder, half a +dozen muskets, some fish-hooks, and a quantity of tobacco. Everything we +possessed we delivered into the hands of the natives, who accounted to +us for the stock thus entrusted to their management with the most +scrupulous exactness. Nothing can be fairer than their mode of bartering +with the Europeans; the prices are fixed; ten large hogs, or 120 baskets +of potatoes (about a ton and a-half), are given for a musket; for small +articles, such as fish, Indian corn, or fruits, the ready money are +fish-hooks and tobacco. As we were now about to become inhabitants of New +Zealand, it became necessary that we should be well acquainted with the +particulars of their methods of "doing business," and that we should +apply ourselves diligently to the study of the language, which we +acquired much more readily than I had anticipated. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +BRUTAL MURDER OF A WIFE. + + +A few days after the departure of the brig I witnessed a specimen of +their summary method of executing justice. A chief, resident in the +village, had proof of the infidelity of one of his wives; and, being +perfectly sure of her guilt, he took his patoo-patoo (or stone hatchet) +and proceeded to his hut, where this wretched woman was employed in +household affairs. Without mentioning the cause of his suspicion, or once +upbraiding her, he deliberately aimed a blow at her head, which killed +her on the spot; and, as she was a slave, he dragged the body to the +outside of the village, and there left it to be devoured by the dogs. The +account of this transaction was soon brought to us, and we proceeded to +the place to request permission to bury the body of the murdered woman, +which was immediately granted. Accordingly, we procured a couple of +slaves, who assisted us to carry the corpse down to the beach, where we +interred it in the most decent manner we could. + +This was the second murder I was very nearly a witness to since my +arrival; and the indifference with which each had been spoken of induced +me to believe that such barbarities were events of frequent occurrence; +yet the manners of all seemed kind and gentle towards each other; but +infidelity in a wife is never forgiven here; and, in general, if the +lover can be taken, he also is sacrificed along with the adulteress. +Truth obliges me to confess that, notwithstanding these horrors staring +them in the face, they will, if opportunity offers, indulge in an +intrigue. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +ANOTHER JOURNEY TO BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +As there were two roads across to the Bay of Islands, and I was anxious +to see as much of the country as possible, I determined that my second +journey should be by the longest route. I set off, accompanied only by a +native boy to carry a small portmanteau and to serve me as a guide. As, +on my former journey, we travelled many miles through thick tangled +forests, fatiguing beyond description. In the midst of our toilsome +progress, night frequently overtook us; then, by means of my +fowling-piece, I procured a light, the boy made a fire, and we passed the +night in this vast wilderness, far from the habitation of any human +being! At daybreak we resumed our journey, and at length (about ten +o'clock) we emerged from the wood, and entered upon extensive plains. +These were not naked deserts, similar to the ones I had passed through on +my former route, but were diversified with bush and brake, with a number +of small villages scattered in various directions. At mid-day we arrived +at what in New Zealand is considered a town of great size and importance, +called Ty-a-my. It is situated on the sides of a beautiful hill, the top +surmounted by a pa, in the midst of a lonely and extensive plain, covered +with plantations of Indian corn, Kumara and potatoes. This is the +principal inland settlement, and, in point of quiet beauty and +fertility, it equalled any place I had ever seen in the various countries +I have visited. Its situation brought forcibly to my remembrance the +scenery around Canterbury. + +We found the village totally deserted, all the inhabitants being employed +in their various plantations; they shouted to us as we passed, thus +bidding us welcome, but did not leave their occupations to receive us. To +view the cultivated parts of this country from an eminence a person might +easily imagine himself in a civilised land; for miles around the village +of Ty-a-my nothing but beautiful green fields present themselves to the +eye. The exact rows in which they plant their Indian corn would do credit +to a first-rate English farmer, and the way in which they prepare the +soil is admirable. The greatest deficiency which I observed in the +country around me was the total absence of fences; and this defect +occasions the natives a great deal of trouble, which might very easily be +avoided. Hogs are the principal part of their wealth, with which, at all +times, they can traffic with vessels touching at their ports. These +animals, consequently, are of the utmost importance to them; but during +the growth of their crops, the constant watching the hogs require to keep +them out of the plantations consumes more time than would effectually +fence in their whole country; but I have no doubt, as they already begin +to follow our advice and adopt our plans, they will soon see the utility +of fencing in their land. I have at various times held many conversations +with different chiefs on this subject, all of whom have acknowledged the +propriety of so doing. + +A few miles after leaving this beautiful village we came to a spot +covered with heaps of cinders and hillocks of volcanic matter. I found +all these hillocks small craters, but none of them, burning; and for +miles our road lay through ashes and lava. These fires must have been +extinguished many ages since, as there is not the slightest tradition +among any of the natives of their ever having been burning. + +After passing over this lava, our journey lay through a very swampy +country, intersected with streams. I got completely wearied with +stripping to wade through them, so that at length I plunged in clothes +and all. At the close of a most fatiguing day's march, we arrived in +sight of the bay, having travelled over an extent of about fifty miles +since the morning! No canoe being in sight, and we being too distant to +make signals to our brig, we had to pass another night in bivouac on a +part of the beach called Waitangi; and as it did not rain we slept pretty +comfortably. The next morning I procured a canoe, and went on board our +vessel. + +The day following the brig took her final departure from New Zealand, and +we bade farewell to Captain Kent. We now formally placed ourselves under +the protection of King George, who seemed highly pleased with his charge; +and in a few days three good houses were ready for our reception--one for +ourselves, a second for our stores, and a third for our servants. But our +pleasant prospects were soon obscured by a circumstance totally +unexpected, which placed us in a most critical situation, and which we +had every reason to fear would lead to our total destruction. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +VISIT OF A WAR PARTY. + + +I was roused one morning at daybreak by my servant running in with the +intelligence that a great number of war canoes were crossing the bay. As +King George had told us but the evening before that he expected a visit +from Ta-ri-ah, a chief of the tribe called Ngapuhis, whose territory lay +on the opposite side of the bay, and given us to understand that Ta-ri-ah +was a man not to be trusted, and therefore feared some mischief might +happen if he really came, the sight of these war canoes naturally caused +us considerable alarm, and we sincerely wished that the visit was over. + +We dressed ourselves with the utmost expedition, and walked down to the +beach. The landing of these warriors was conducted with a considerable +degree of order, and could I have divested myself of all ideas of danger +I should have admired the sight excessively. All our New Zealand +friends--the tribe of Shulitea--were stripped naked, their bodies were +oiled, and all were completely armed; their muskets were loaded, their +cartouch boxes were fastened round their waists, and their patoo-patoos +were fixed to their wrists. Their hair was tied up in a tight knot at the +top of their heads, beautifully ornamented with feathers of the +albatross. As the opposite party landed, ours all crouched on the ground, +their eyes fixed on their visitors, and perfectly silent. When the +debarkation was completed I observed the chief, Ta-ri-ah, put himself at +their head, and march towards us with his party formed closely and +compactly, and armed with muskets and paddles. When they came very near +they suddenly stopped. Our party continued still mute, with their +firelocks poised ready for use. For the space of a few minutes all was +still, each party glaring fiercely on the other; and they certainly +formed one of the most beautiful and extraordinary pictures I had ever +beheld. The foreground was formed by a line of naked savages, each +resting on one knee, with musket advanced, their gaze fixed on the +opposite party, their fine, broad, muscular backs contrasting with the +dark foliage in front, and catching the gleam of the rising sun. The +strangers were clothed in the most grotesque manner imaginable--some +armed, some naked, some with long beards, others were painted all over +with red ochre; every part of each figure was quite still, except the +rolling and glaring of their eyes on their opponents. The background was +formed by the beach, and a number of their beautiful war canoes dancing +on the waves; while, in the distance, the mountains on the opposite side +of the bay were just tinged with the varied and beautiful colours of the +sun, then rising in splendour from behind them. + +The stillness of this extraordinary scene did not last long. The Ngapuhis +commenced a noisy and discordant song and dance, yelling, jumping, and +making the most hideous faces. This was soon answered by a loud shout +from our party, who endeavoured to outdo the Ngapuhis in making horrible +distortions of their countenances; then succeeded another dance from our +visitors, after which our friends made a rush, and in a sort of rough +joke set them running. Then all joined in a pell-mell sort of encounter, +in which numerous hard blows were given and received; then all the party +fired their pieces in the air, and the ceremony of landing was thus +deemed completed. They then approached each other, and began rubbing +noses; and those who were particular friends cried and lamented over each +other. + +The slaves now commenced the labour of making fires to cook the morning +meal, while the chiefs, squatting down, formed a ring, or, rather, an +oblong circle, on the ground; then one at a time rose up, and made long +speeches, which they did in a manner peculiar to themselves. The speaker, +during his harangue, keeps running backwards and forwards within the +oblong space, using the most violent but appropriate gesticulation; so +expressive, indeed, of the subject on which he is speaking, that a +spectator who does not understand their language can form a tolerable +idea as to what the affair is then under debate. The orator is never +interrupted in his speech; but, when he finishes and sits down, another +immediately rises up and takes his place, so that all who choose have an +opportunity of delivering their sentiments, after which the assembly +breaks up. + +Though the meeting of these hostile tribes had thus ended more amicably +than King George and his party could have expected, it was easily to be +perceived that the Ngapuhis were determined on executing some atrocity or +depredations before their return; they accordingly pretended to recollect +some old offence committed by the English settlers at the other end of +the beach. They proceeded thither, and first attacked and broke open the +house of a blacksmith, and carried off every article it contained. They +then marched to the residence of an English captain (who was in England), +and plundered it of everything that could be taken away, and afterwards +sent word they intended to return to our end of the beach. Our fears were +greatly increased by finding that our friends were not sufficiently +strong to protect us from the superior force of the Ngapuhis, and our +chief, George, being himself (we supposed) conscious of his inability, +had left us to depend upon our own resources. + + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +BURNED OUT OF HOUSE AND HOME. + + +We now called a council of war of all the Europeans settled here; and it +was unanimously resolved that we should protect and defend our houses and +property, and fortify our position in the best way we could. Captain Duke +had in his possession four twelve-pounders, and these we brought in front +of the enclosure in which our huts were situated, and were all entirely +employed in loading them with round and grape shot, and had made them all +ready for action, when, to our consternation and dismay, we found we had +a new and totally unexpected enemy to contend with. By some accident one +of our houses was in flames. Our situation was now perilous in the +extreme. The buildings, the work of English carpenters, were constructed +of dry rushes and well-seasoned wood, and this was one of a very +respectable size, and we had hoped, in a very few days, would be finished +fit for our removing into. + +For some seconds we stood in mute amazement, not knowing to which point +to direct our energies. As the cry of "fire" was raised, groups of +natives came rushing from all directions upon our devoted settlement, +stripping off their clothes, and yelling in the most discordant pitch of +voice. I entered the house, and brought out one of my trunks, but on +attempting to return a second time I found it filled with naked savages, +tearing everything to pieces, and carrying away whatever they could lay +their hands upon. The fierce raging of the flames, the heat from the +fire, the yells of the men, and the shrill cries of the women, formed, +altogether, a horrible combination; added to all this was the +mortification of seeing all our property carried off in different +directions, without the least possibility of our preventing it. The tribe +of the Ngapuhis (who, when the fire began, were at the other end of the +beach) left their operations in that quarter and poured down upon us to +share in the general plunder. Never shall I forget the countenance of the +chief, as he rushed forward at the head of his destroying crew! He was +called "The Giant," and he was well worthy of the name, being the tallest +and largest man I had ever seen; he had an immense bushy black beard, and +grinned exultingly when he saw the work of destruction proceeding with +such rapidity, and kept shouting loudly to his party to excite them to +carry off all they could. + +A cask containing seventy gallons of rum now caught fire and blew up with +a terrible explosion; and, the wind freshening considerably, huge volumes +of smoke and flame burst out in every direction. Two of our houses were +so completely enveloped that we had given up all hopes of saving them. +The third, which was a beautifully carved tapued one, some little +distance from the others, and which we had converted into a store and +magazine, was now the only object of our solicitude and terror. For, +besides the valuable property of various kinds which were deposited +within it, it contained several barrels of gunpowder! It was in vain we +attempted to warn the frantic natives to retire from the vicinity of this +danger. At length we persuaded about a dozen of the most rational to +listen while we explained to them the cause of our alarm; and they +immediately ascended to the roof, where, with the utmost intrepidity and +coolness, they kept pouring water over the thatch, thus lessening the +probability of an immediate explosion. About this time we noticed the +reappearance of King George, which circumstance rekindled our hopes. He +was armed with a thick stick, which he laid heavily on the backs of such +of his subjects as were running away with our property, thus forcing them +to relinquish their prizes, and to lay them down before his own mansion, +where all was safe. By this means a great deal was recollected. The fire +was now nearly extinguished; but our two really tolerably good houses +were reduced to a heap of smoking ruins, and the greater part of what +belonged to us was taken away by the Ngapuhis. + +This calamity had made us acquainted with another of their barbarous +customs, which is, whenever a misfortune happens to a community, or an +individual, every person, even the friends of his own tribe, fall upon +and strip him of all he has remaining. As an unfortunate fish, when +struck by a harpoon, is instantly surrounded and devoured by his +companions, so in New Zealand, when a chief is killed, his former friends +plunder his widow and children; and they, in revenge, ill-use and even +murder their slaves--thus one misfortune gives birth to various +cruelties. During the fire, our allies proved themselves the most adroit +and active thieves imaginable, though previously to that event we had +never lost an article, although everything we possessed was open to them. + +When we questioned them about our property, they frankly told us where it +was; and, after some difficulty in settling the amount of its ransom, we +got most of our things back again, with the exception of such as had been +carried off by the Ngapuhis. + +Upon the cruelty of this custom I shall make no comments. Probably I +should have remained in ignorance of this savage law, had I not had the +misfortune to become its victim. + +By redeeming from the natives what they had purloined from the fire, we +had restored to us some of our boxes, desks, and clothes; but all our +little comforts towards housekeeping were irretrievably lost. When the +fire was over we received a visit from one of the missionaries, who made +us a cold offer of assistance. We accepted a little tea, sugar and some +few articles of crockery from them; but, although they knew we stood +there houseless, amongst a horde of savages, they never offered us the +shelter of their roofs. I am very sure that had the calamity befallen +them, we should immediately have offered our huts, and shared with them +everything we possessed. Here was an opportunity of practically showing +the "pagans" (as they termed the New Zealanders) the great Christian +doctrine of "doing to others as we would they should do unto us." I must +acknowledge I was sometimes mortified at being obliged to sleep (three of +us huddled up close together) in a small New Zealand hut, filled with +filth and vermin of all kinds, while at only two miles' distance from us +stood a neat village, abounding in every comfort that a bountiful British +public could provide; and we, members of that community, and, indeed, +partly contributors to the funds for its support. + +The high state of excitement into which the savages had been thrown by +the late conflagration gradually subsided, and as we had escaped the +dreaded calamity of our magazine blowing up, we began to look with +calmness on our desolate condition, and draw comfort from thinking how +much worse we might have been circumstanced than we then were. I hope our +distress may prove a benefit to future sojourners in this country, by +showing them the great importance of forming a proper magazine for +powder. The agonies I suffered in contemplating the destruction which six +barrels of powder, each of an hundredweight, would cause amongst a mob of +several hundred naked savages, it is impossible to imagine! + +King George, as well as all his people, were most anxious to build us a +new habitation entirely themselves. They requested us to give them the +dimensions of the various dwellings, and said we should have no further +trouble about them. A party accordingly proceeded to the bush to collect +materials. They first formed the skeleton of a cottage containing three +rooms, with slight sticks, firmly tied together with strips of flax. +While this was in progress, another party was collecting rushes (which +grow plentifully in the neighbourhood, called Ra-poo). These they spread +in the sun for twenty-four hours, when they considered them sufficiently +dry. They then thatched every part of the house, which for neatness and +strength was equal to anything I had ever seen. The doors and windows we +employed our carpenter to make, these being luxuries quite beyond the +comprehension of the natives. We were thus tolerably well lodged again; +and our time passed on tranquilly, almost every day developing some fresh +trait of character amongst these children of nature. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +A HOSTILE DEMONSTRATION. + + +I went to reside for a short time at a village about half a mile distant, +where there was a pretty good house vacant. It was called Ma-to-we, and +belonged to a chief named Atoi, a relation of George's, but a much +younger man. His power was not so great, and he was every way subject to +the authority of the tribe under whose protection I had placed myself. +One morning, at daybreak, we were roused by the hasty approach of King +George and all his warriors towards Ma-to-we. All were fully equipped for +war, and each countenance looked fierce and wild. Our late misfortunes +having rendered us more than usually anxious, this hostile appearance +gave us considerable alarm. We left our house to inquire the reason +thereof, and saw George and his followers enter the village, pull down +several fences, fire a few muskets in the air, dance a most hideous dance +of defiance, and then depart; but not one word of explanation could we +obtain from him. In the course of the morning, however, the women +acquainted us with the cause of this mysterious proceeding, which +determined me to remove my things back again to George's village of +Kororarika as soon as possible. + +The affair was simply this: Atoi had two wives. During the time of our +visit to his village, he was absent, and had entrusted these women to the +care of his brother; but he, instead of being faithful to the trust +reposed in him, had actually seduced one of them. This circumstance came +to the knowledge of George, and he, feeling for the honour of his absent +friend, immediately proceeded to the village, and thus gave the parties +warning that he was fully aware of the nature of their proceedings. He +had also dispatched a messenger to Atoi, to inform him of his disgrace, +and to request his immediate return. In the course of the day it was +expected he would arrive, and bring with him a strong party of friends, +all burning with revenge, and eager to punish his brother for his +unnatural perfidy. It was thought that unless George interfered, much +bloodshed might ensue; and it may readily be imagined how anxious we were +that this dreaded meeting should be over; yet I (for one) had determined +that I would be a witness of it. Therefore, when word was brought to me +that Atoi was crossing the bay, I hastened down to the beach. There I +found all parties assembled from both villages. George and his followers, +who were to act as mediators, sat immediately in front of the place of +landing; behind them were Atoi's brother and all his partizans; and in +the rear were all the women and children, with about a dozen white faces +scattered amongst them. The scene was picturesque and exceedingly +interesting. It was near the close of a lovely summer's day--the sun, +fast sinking towards the horizon, threw a warm and mellow glow over the +wide expanse of the far-spreading bay, whose smooth waters were only +disturbed by the approaching canoe cutting its foamy way. It was crowded +with naked warriors, urging their rapid course towards the shore; and we +heard the loud and furious song of the chief, animating his friends to +exertion; we saw his frantic gestures, as he stood in the centre of his +canoe, brandishing his weapons. As they came near the place of landing, +George ran into the stream, and as the canoe touched the shore, attacked +Atoi, but in a playful manner, splashing water over him. Thus irritated, +Atoi jumped on land, and, with a double-barrelled musket in his hand, ran +towards his brother, and doubtless would have killed him on the spot, had +he not been prevented. I now saw the advantage of George and his party +being present. He and three of his subjects seized upon Atoi, and tried +to wrest the weapon from his hands, which if they had been able to +effect, a mortal combat could not take place, such being the custom here. +Atoi was a very powerful man of about thirty, and those who attacked him +had a most difficult task; twice he broke from them; and I then watched +the countenance of his brother, which was perfectly cool and collected, +though the firelock was in readiness, and the finger on the trigger, +which might despatch him instantly. All parties sat perfectly quiet +during the desperate struggle; one of the barrels of Atoi's piece went +off, and the contents flew amongst us, without, however, doing any +material injury; and, finally, the musket was wrested out of his hands. +He then sat still for about twenty minutes, to recover his breath, when +he seized a club and rushed upon his brother (for mortal weapons were now +prohibited). The brother started up, armed in the same manner; some heavy +blows passed between them; when, having thrown aside their clubs, they +grappled each other firmly, and a dreadful struggle ensued. As they were +both completely naked, their hair was the only thing to take hold by; but +being long, thick, and strong, it afforded a firm grasp, and they +committed desperate havoc on each other's persons. At this period of the +fight their poor old mother, who was quite blind, came forward to try and +separate the combatants; the sister and younger brothers now followed her +example; and, finally, the fair and frail cause of all this commotion. + +The brothers, having completely exhausted their strength, were easily +separated; and as their friends had carefully removed all weapons out of +their reach, they of course were deprived of the means of injuring each +other. The members of Atoi's family, together with a few friends, now sat +down in a circle, to converse and consult on the affair. Atoi's wife +totally denied the charge, and protested her innocence, and many +circumstances were brought forward to corroborate her statements. The +husband at length was satisfied, and all parties were reconciled. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +THE LAW OF RETALIATION. + + +This affair was scarcely terminated, when we found that another of a +still more serious nature was likely to arise from it and would threaten +the peace of both villages. When King George sent his messenger to inform +Atoi of the infidelity of his wife, the infuriated husband assaulted the +man, and it was rumoured that he had killed him. This was an offence not +to be forgiven, and George was so exasperated by it that he vowed he +would exterminate the whole of Atoi's tribe. A native, however, arrived +with the intelligence that the man was not dead, but only wounded. This +did not seem to allay George's feelings of resentment, and he instantly +made great preparations for war. When our anxiety was wound up to the +utmost, we were greatly astonished to see Atoi and all his friends +approach our settlement, totally unarmed. George went out to meet them, +looking so full of rage that I thought Atoi stood but a slight chance for +his life. After a great deal of violent pantomimic action and grimace, +the apology offered by Atoi was accepted, and the visit was concluded by +a grand war-dance and sham fight performed in their best manner. King +George, in the fulness of his heart at this complete restoration of +friendship, gave a great feast of kumaras and fish, to which we added +some tobacco; and the whole of the party seated themselves by each other +with the utmost sociality--a convincing proof that animosity is not long +an inmate of their breasts. + +I took every opportunity of inquiring into the nature of their laws and +mode of government, and I found that, in general, their method of +redressing wrongs was very summary, and that their ideas of what was +strictly just were, for the most part, simple and equitable. For any +theft, or offence of that sort, committed by one tribe on another, the +parties are called to instant account. If one native takes from another +any part of his possessions, the party injured has a right to retaliate, +and the party retaliated upon must not make the slightest resistance. We +ourselves experienced a proof of this. Some part of our property, which +we supposed had been destroyed by our late fire, we had been told was to +be found in the hut of a neighbouring chief. We one day took advantage of +his absence, searched the hut ourselves, and discovered our things +carefully deposited therein. Thus assured of the fact, we laid our +complaint before King George, who, after hearing our story to the end, +replied, "Well, my friends, you must go to the hut and take away all your +property, and whatever else you may find, which you may think sufficient +payment for the injury you have received." We accordingly proceeded to +the chief's dwelling, whom we found standing at his door. We charged him +with having robbed us, and entered the house to seize our property. He +held down his head, and seemed ashamed and overpowered at this discovery. +He did not attempt to vindicate his conduct, but quietly allowed us not +only to take away all that had belonged to us, but likewise a musket and +double-barrelled gun, which he concluded he had lost for ever. These we +had only taken away temporarily to deter him from theft in future, for a +few days after we brought them back to him, to his infinite delight and +astonishment. + +I was frequently shocked during my residence in this country by the +number of accidents which continually happened to the natives from +gunpowder, and not even the saddest experience could render them more +careful. We were doubtful of the strength of a French fowling-piece we +had, so we loaded it to the muzzle and discharged it, in order to prove +it. Some young chiefs, who saw us do this (approving of this method), as +soon as they returned home loaded a musket in the same manner, and then +discharged it; but not managing the affair as we did--by means of a +string fastened to the trigger--the piece burst, and mangled two of them +dreadfully, and we got greatly blamed for showing them what was +considered so bad an example. + +A few months since a native came from the interior driving a quantity of +pigs to barter for powder; he obtained several pounds' weight, and set +off to return home. On his journey he passed the night in a hut, and for +safety put the bag of powder under his head as a pillow; and as a New +Zealander always sleeps with a fire close to him, the consequence was, in +the course of the night the fire communicated to the powder, and +destroyed the man and the whole of his family, who were journeying with +him. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +A WAR EXPEDITION AND A CANNIBAL FEAST. + + +Last year a chief, and cousin of King George, named Pomare, was defeated +and killed by the people of the Thames, and George was now resolved to +revenge his death. This determination having become known, we had a +constant succession of visitors, and a considerable number of blows, +scratches, and rubbing noses were the consequence. Our beach presented a +most interesting and busy scene. A dozen superb war canoes were lying +ready to convey the forces; and, considering their limited means, the +solidity of their structure and the carved work on them are surprising. +None but men of rank are allowed to work upon them, and they labour like +slaves. Some canoes were to be lengthened; others patched; others were +condemned to be broken up, and the fragments taken to complete the new +ones. Every morning we were awakened by the sound of the hammer and saw, +and they were much gratified by our walking down to their dockyard to +observe the progress they made, and by giving our opinions of their work. +They thankfully received any hint we gave them as to better methods of +completing or proceeding with their operations. Here were carvers, +painters, caulkers, and sailmakers, all working in their different +departments with great good humour and industry. Some of their vessels +were eighty feet long, and were entirely covered with beautiful +carving. Their form was light and delicate, and if their intentions were +hostile towards us, they would be very formidable alongside any merchant +man. If our Government should determine to colonise any part of New +Zealand, they would find the natives hardy and willing assistants, and +very different from the natives of New South Wales. + +[Illustration: Maori War Expedition (With Mission boat accompanying +it.)] + +As their canoes were ready for launching, they ran them off the beach, +jumped into them, and scudded across the bay with an almost incredible +swiftness. When it is considered that in each canoe were seated eighty +stout young men, each with a large paddle in his hand propelling the +vessel forward, the velocity with which she flew may be imagined! It was +in the midst of scenes like these that we were passing our time, and I +had just become delighted with the appearance of innocence and industry +so continually displayed by these people, when I was called upon to +witness a sight which exhibited their character in its worst light, and +confirmed all my horrible suspicions regarding their alleged cannibalism. + +The New Zealanders have been long charged with cannibalism; but as no +person of importance or celebrity had actually been a witness to the +disgusting act, in pity to our nature such relations have been +universally rejected, and much has been written to prove the +non-existence of so hideous a propensity. It was my lot to behold it in +all its horrors! + +One morning, about eleven o'clock, after I had just returned from a long +walk, Captain Duke informed me he had heard, from very good authority +(though the natives wished it to be kept a profound secret), that in the +adjoining village a female slave, named Matowe, had been put to death, +and that the people were at that very time preparing her flesh for +cooking. At the same time he reminded me of a circumstance which had +taken place the evening before. Atoi had been paying us a visit, and, +when going away, he recognised a girl whom he said was a slave that had +run away from him; he immediately seized hold of her, and gave her in +charge to some of his people. The girl had been employed in carrying wood +for us; Atoi's laying claim to her had caused us no alarm for her life, +and we had thought no more on the subject; but now, to my surprise and +horror, I heard this poor girl was the victim they were preparing for the +oven! Captain Duke and myself were resolved to witness this dreadful +scene. We therefore kept our information as secret as possible, well +knowing that if we had manifested our wishes they would have denied the +whole affair. We set out, taking a circuitous route towards the village, +and, being well acquainted with the road, we came upon them suddenly, and +found them in the midst of their abominable ceremonies. + +On a spot of rising ground, just outside the village, we saw a man +preparing a native oven, which is done in the following simple manner:--A +hole is made in the ground, and hot stones are put within it, and then +all is covered up close. As we approached, we saw evident signs of the +murder which had been perpetrated; bloody mats were strewed around, and a +boy was standing by them actually laughing: he put his finger to his +head, and then pointed towards a bush. I approached the bush, and there +discovered a human head. My feelings of horror may be imagined as I +recognised the features of the unfortunate girl I had seen forced from +our village the preceding evening! + +We ran towards the fire, and there stood a man occupied in a way few +would wish to see. He was preparing the four-quarters of a human body for +a feast; the large bones, having been taken out, were thrown aside, and +the flesh being compressed, he was in the act of forcing it into the +oven. While we stood transfixed by this terrible sight, a large dog, +which lay before the fire, rose up, seized the bloody head, and walked +off with it into the bushes, no doubt to hide it there for another meal! +The man completed his task with the most perfect composure, telling us, +at the same time, that the repast would not be ready for some hours! + +Here stood Captain Duke and myself, both witnesses of a scene which many +travellers have related, and their relations have invariably been treated +with contempt; indeed, the veracity of those who had the temerity to +relate such incredible events has been everywhere questioned. In this +instance it was no warrior's flesh to be eaten; there was no enemy's +blood to drink, in order to infuriate them. They had no revenge to +gratify; no plea could they make of their passions having been roused by +battle, nor the excuse that they eat their enemies to perfect their +triumph. This was an action of unjustifiable cannibalism. Atoi, the +chief, who had given orders for this cruel feast, had only the night +before sold us four pigs for a few pounds of powder; so he had not even +the excuse of want of food. After Captain Duke and myself had consulted +with each other, we walked into the village, determining to charge Atoi +with his brutality. + +Atoi received us in his usual manner; and his handsome, open countenance +could not be imagined to belong to so savage a monster as he had proved +himself to be. I shuddered at beholding the unusual quantity of potatoes +his slaves were preparing to eat with this infernal banquet. We talked +coolly with him on the subject, for, as we could not prevent what had +taken place, we were resolved to learn, if possible, the whole +particulars. Atoi at first tried to make us believe he knew nothing about +it, and that it was only a meal for his slaves; but we had ascertained it +was for himself and his favourite companions. After various endeavours to +conceal the fact, Atoi frankly owned that he was only waiting till the +cooking was completed to partake of it. He added that, knowing the horror +we Europeans held these feasts in, the natives were always most anxious +to conceal them from us, and he was very angry that it had come to our +knowledge; but, as he had acknowledged the fact, he had no objection to +talk about it. He told us that human flesh required a greater number of +hours to cook than any other; that if not done enough it was very tough, +but when sufficiently cooked it was as tender as paper. He held in his +hand a piece of paper, which he tore in illustration of his remark. He +said the flesh then preparing would not be ready till next morning; but +one of his sisters whispered in my ear that her brother was deceiving us, +as they intended feasting at sunset. + +We inquired why and how he had murdered the poor girl. He replied that +running away from him to her own relations was her only crime. He then +took us outside his village, and showed us the post to which she had been +tied, and laughed to think how he had cheated her: "For," said he, "I +told her I only intended to give her a flogging; but I fired, and shot +her through the heart!" My blood ran cold at this relation, and I looked +with feelings of horror at the savage while he related it. Shall I be +credited when I again affirm that he was not only a handsome young man, +but mild and genteel in his demeanour? He was a man we had admitted to +our table, and was a general favourite with us all; and the poor victim +to his bloody cruelty was a pretty girl of about sixteen years of age! + +While listening to this frightful detail, we felt sick almost to +fainting. We left Atoi, and again strolled towards the spot where this +disgusting mess was cooking. Not a native was now near it: a hot, fetid +steam kept occasionally bursting from the smothered mass; and the same +dog we had seen with the head now crept from beneath the bushes, and +sneaked towards the village. To add to the gloominess of the whole, a +large hawk rose heavily from the very spot where the poor victim had been +cut in pieces. My friend and I sat gazing on this melancholy place; it +was a lowering, gusty day, and the moaning of the wind through the +bushes, as it swept round the hill on which we were, seemed in unison +with our feelings. + +After some time spent in contemplating the miserable scene before us, +during which we gave full vent to the most passionate exclamations of +disgust, we determined to spoil this intended feast. This resolution +formed, we rose to execute it. I ran off to our beach, leaving Duke on +guard, and, collecting all the white men I could, I informed them of what +had happened, and asked them if they would assist in destroying the oven +and burying the remains of the girl. They consented, and each having +provided himself with a shovel or a pickaxe, we repaired in a body to +the spot. Atoi and his friends had by some means been informed of our +intention, and they came out to prevent it. He used various threats to +deter us, and seemed highly indignant; but as none of his followers +appeared willing to come to blows, and seemed ashamed that such a +transaction should have been discovered by us, we were permitted by them +to do as we chose. We accordingly dug a tolerably deep grave; then we +resolutely attacked the oven. On removing the earth and leaves, the +shocking spectacle was presented to our view--the four quarters of a +human body half roasted. During our work clouds of steam enveloped us, +and the disgust created by our task was almost overpowering. We collected +all the parts we could recognise; the heart was placed separately, we +supposed, as a savoury morsel for the chief himself. We placed the whole +in the grave, which we filled up as well as we could, and then broke and +scattered the oven. + +By this time the natives from both villages had assembled, and a scene +similar to this was never before witnessed in New Zealand. Six unarmed +men, quite unprotected (for there was not a single vessel in the harbour, +nor had there been for a month), had attacked and destroyed all the +preparations of the natives for what they consider a national feast; and +this was done in the presence of a great body of armed chiefs, who had +assembled to partake of it. After having finished this exploit, and our +passion and disgust had somewhat subsided, I could not help feeling that +we had acted very imprudently in thus tempting the fury of these savages, +and interfering in an affair that certainly was no concern of ours; but +as no harm accrued to any of our party, it plainly shows the influence +"the white men" have already obtained over them; had the offence we +committed been done by any hostile tribe, hundreds of lives would have +been sacrificed. + +The next day our old friend King George paid us a long visit, and we +talked over the affair very calmly. He highly disapproved of our conduct. +"In the first place," said he, "you did a foolish thing, which might have +cost you your lives; and yet did not accomplish your purpose after all, +as you merely succeeded in burying the flesh near the spot on which you +found it. After you went away it was again taken up, and every bit was +eaten"--a fact I afterwards ascertained by examining the grave and +finding it empty. King George further said: "It was an old custom, which +their fathers practised before them; and you had no right to interfere +with their ceremonies. I myself," added he, "have left off eating human +flesh, out of compliment to you white men; but you have no reason to +expect the same compliance from all the other chiefs. What punishment +have you in England for thieves and runaways?" We answered, "After trial, +flogging or hanging." "Then," he replied, "the only difference in our +laws is, you flog and hang, but we shoot and eat." + +After thus reproving us, he became very communicative on the subject of +cannibalism. He said, he recollected the time prior to pigs and potatoes +being introduced into the island (an epoch of great importance to the New +Zealanders), and stated that he was born and reared in an inland +district, and the only food they then had consisted of fern roots and +kumara; fish they never saw, and the only flesh he then partook of was +human. But I will no longer dwell on this humiliating subject. Most +white men who have visited the island have been sceptical on this point; +I myself was before I had "ocular proof." Consequently I availed myself +of the first opportunity to convince myself of the fact. I have reflected +upon the subject, and am thoroughly satisfied that nothing will cure the +natives of this dreadful propensity but the introduction of many +varieties of animals, both wild and tame, and all would be sure to thrive +in so mild and fine a climate. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +SLAVERY AMONG THE MAORIS. + + +The scene I have just described brings into consideration the subject of +slavery, as it now exists in New Zealand. That slavery should be the +custom of savage nations and cannibals, is not a cause of wonder: they +are the only class of human beings it ought to remain with. Here slavery +assumes its most hideous shape! Every one they can effect a seizure of in +an enemy's country becomes the slave of the captors. Chiefs are never +made prisoners; they either fight to the last, or are killed on the spot, +and their heads are preserved (by a peculiar method) as trophies. +Children are greatly prized: these they bring to their dwellings, and +they remain slaves for life. Upon the number of slaves a chief can muster +he takes his rank as a man of wealth and consequence in society; and the +only chance these wretched beings have of being released from their +miseries, is their master getting into a rage, and murdering them without +further ceremony. + +On entering a village, a stranger instantly discovers which portion of +its inhabitants are the slaves, though both the complexion and the +dresses of all are alike. The free Zealander is a joyous, good-humoured +looking man, full of laughter and vivacity, and is chattering +incessantly; but the slaves have invariably a squalid, dejected look; +they are never seen to smile, and appear literally half starved. The +beauties characteristic of a New Zealander are his teeth and hair; the +latter, in particular, is his pride and study; but the slaves have their +heads half shorn. The male slave is not allowed to marry; and any +intercourse with a female, if discovered, is generally punished by death. +Never was there a body of men so completely cut off from all society as +these poor slaves; they never can count, with certainty, on a single +moment of life, as the savage caprice of their master may instantly +deprive them of it. If, by chance, a slave should belong to a kind and +good master, an accident happening to him, or any of his family, will +probably prove equally fatal to the slave, as some are generally +sacrificed on the death of a chief. + +Thus these poor slaves are deprived of every hope and stimulus by which +all other classes and individuals are animated; no good conduct of theirs +towards their master, no attachment to his person or family, no fidelity +or long service can ensure kind treatment. If the slave effect his escape +to his own part of the country, he is there treated with contempt; and +when he dies (if a natural death), his body is dragged to the outside of +the village, there to be made sport of by the children, or to furnish +food for the dogs! but more frequently his fate is to receive a fatal +blow in a fit of passion, and then be devoured by his brutal master! Even +the female slaves who, if pretty, are frequently taken as wives by their +conquerors, have not a much greater chance of happiness, all being +dependent upon the caprice of their owners. + +When I can relate anything favourable to the missionaries, I invariably +intend to do so, which will account for the introduction of the +following: A few days since, I paid a visit to one of their settlements, +and noticed a remarkably fine native woman attending as a servant. She +was respectably dressed, and in every respect (except complexion) she was +similar to a European. She spoke English fluently. Upon expressing my +admiration of her, I was informed that this woman had been a slave of +Hongi's, and that about a year previous he had lost one of his sons, and +had determined to sacrifice this poor girl as an atonement. She was +actually bound for the purpose, and nothing but the strong interference +of the whole of the missionary society here could have saved her life. +They exerted themselves greatly, and preserved her; and she had proved a +faithful and valuable servant. + + + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +PIRATICAL SEIZURE OF A VESSEL. + + +Before finally quitting the subject of slavery, I must give an account of +some white men I saw in this state of degradation, and who belonged to a +chief who visited us some weeks since. In the beginning of 1827, the +Government of New South Wales hired the brig Wellington to convey a +number of prisoners to Norfolk Island, most of whom were felons of the +worst description: the greater part were under sentence of banishment for +life. These desperadoes amounted to seventy-four; by far too many for the +size of the brig, as those whose duty is was to guard them, and the crew +of the vessel, were too few to keep them under subjection. When within a +few days' sail of their destination, they rose on the guard, and, after a +desperate struggle, made themselves masters of the vessel, which was a +very fine one, and was well provided with arms and stores of every kind, +amounting to a sufficiency to carry them to any part of the world they +chose. But the machinations of the wicked rarely prosper, and this was +another proof of the truth of the observation; for, after a stormy and +violent debate among themselves, they at length determined to run for the +Bay of Islands, and if any vessel more eligible was there, they were to +take possession of her, and leave the Wellington behind, she having no +register. It is but justice to them to state that they behaved with +humanity to their captives, and no lives were lost: they appointed +officers amongst themselves, and, with the assistance of the deposed +captain, made this port. On their arrival here, they found two English +whalers, the Sisters, Captain Duke, and the Harriet. The commanders, as +is usual on these occasions, went immediately on board the newcomer. +Captain Duke well knew the vessel, having seen her at Sydney; but, of +course, had no idea of what had happened. The pirates received them with +great civility, and deceived them with a false description of their +voyage--of being bound to a southern port with prisoners; and the two +captains, not having the slightest suspicion of who their hosts really +were, passed a very merry evening with these marauders. + +Soon, however, their bad management of the vessel, their want of +discipline, and the general confusion on board, roused a vague suspicion +in the minds of the two captains that all was not "quite right" on board +the Wellington. The real captain, too, had succeeded in conveying a note +to Duke, informing him of his situation, and claiming his assistance to +recapture the brig, and entreating him to release them all from +captivity. + +This communication produced universal alarm, as both the whalers were +quite unprovided for attack or defence, and all the missionary +settlements lay quite at the mercy of this band of pirates. Had the +latter acted with promptness and spirit, they might easily have made +themselves masters of the whole; but while they were arguing and +hesitating where they would make their first attack, the whalers were +actively employed in getting their great guns out of the hold, and in +preparing their vessels for defence; so that, by the time the pirates +came to the resolution to attack them, the whalers were in a good +posture for resistance, and finally became the assailants. Aided by the +prompt assistance of the natives, the whole of these outlaws were taken +into custody, with the exception of six. The extreme interest the savages +took in capturing these deluded men was truly astonishing. When they were +made to understand that these were King George's (of England) slaves, who +had broken loose, they knew, from their own laws, that they ought to be +taken, and they displayed a great deal of courage and address in +approaching and securing them. + +The pirates (having many passengers and others in their power) stipulated +that they should be landed at Kororarika, unmolested by any of the +English. This was granted; but no sooner were they left by themselves +than a party of natives came forward, seized and bound them, stripped off +their clothes, and, after dressing themselves up in them, conducted their +prisoners on board the whalers; but notwithstanding the anxiety of the +whalers to secure the whole, and the activity of the natives, six of them +found means to elude the search, and here they now are. + +The day on which our houses were burned, these six landed in the train of +one of the chiefs; and I have since entertained a suspicion that it was +their desire of revenge that occasioned the destruction of our property +at the time the calamity happened. I chanced to be in the house alone, +and was amazed by seeing an Englishman enter the hut with his face +tattooed all over. Not being aware he was one of the runaways from the +Wellington, I spoke to him. He slunk into our cooking-house on pretence +of lighting his pipe, and before ten minutes had elapsed, the house was +in flames. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +THE CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. + + +The summer was now far advanced, and never, during its progress, had we +been incommoded by any very hot weather. Our house was generally crowded +with visitors: for, as it was the workmanship of King George and his +people, they were prodigiously proud of it, and each seemed to think he +had an undoubted right to sit in it as much as he liked. This, at times, +we felt as a great annoyance; but we were obliged to be very cautious not +to say or do anything that should give offence to them, as all were +exceedingly irritable, and we felt it to be most essential to our comfort +to continue on friendly terms with them. + +Although we were situated in the same latitude as Sydney, we found the +climate of New Zealand infinitely superior. Moderate heats and +beautifully clear skies succeeded each other every day. We were quite +free from those oppressive, feverish heats which invariably prevail in +the middle of the day at Sydney, and from those hot pestilential winds +which are the terror of the inhabitants of New South Wales; nor were we +subject to those long droughts, which are often the ruin of the +Australian farmer. The temperature here was neither too hot nor too cold, +neither too wet nor too dry. Reflecting on this country--its situation, +inhabitants, and climate--I felt convinced that, if it were the object of +our Government to form a new colony, they could not select a more +desirable spot than New Zealand. When we left Sydney, a disease was +raging there of a most disagreeable nature, namely, catarrh. As usual, it +affected strongly the eyes and nose, and generally proved fatal to the +very old and to children. We found the poor natives here subject to the +same complaint, which they called the "Murray," or "Murraybad"; and they +declared they caught it from us Europeans. + +I could scarcely refrain from laughing while witnessing the strange +methods they adopted to effect a cure. Sometimes they would envelope +their heads entirely in green leaves, at other times they would almost +roast themselves in a heated hut; but their universal remedy, and the one +they generally found successful, was starvation, which is, in fact, the +doctor who cures them of all the diseases the Europeans have imported +amongst them: and, I confess, I have often been amazed at their rapid +recovery from maladies which I should have thought incurable. The other +day I asked the opinion of a clever medical man, who came here with one +of the whalers, and he informed me the only cases he had met with amongst +the natives, which terminated fatally, were a few instances of +consumption. + +After the novelty of our savage life began to wear away, I rambled much +about the country, in order to form some judgment of its capability of +improvement. I never possessed any practical knowledge of farming, and +therefore cannot give a scientific opinion or description of the +different soils. In whatever direction I travelled, and at this time I +had crossed the country in various directions several times, the soil +appeared to me to be fat and rich, and also well watered. From every +part of it which the natives have cultivated, the produce has been +immense. Here, where the finest samples of the human race are to be +found, the largest and finest timber grows, and every vegetable (yet +planted) thrives, the introduction of European grasses, fruits, etc., +etc., would be a great desideratum. Were this done, in a very short time +farms would be more eagerly sought after here than they now are in New +South Wales. All the fruits and plants hitherto introduced by the +missionary establishments have succeeded wonderfully. Peaches and water +melons now were in full season; the natives brought baskets full of them +to our door every day, which they exchanged with us for the merest +trifles, such as a fish-hook, or a button. + +Indian corn was likewise very abundant, but as the natives did not +possess any means or knowledge of grinding it, they were not aware of its +full value. Their only method of cooking it was one very disgusting to +Europeans. They soaked the ear in water till it was quite soft and sour, +the smell from which was exceedingly offensive; they then placed it in +their earth ovens to bake, and when they partook of it they seemed to +enjoy it very much. + +In one of my journeys across the island I was accompanied by my Scotch +friend, Mr. Shand, who prided himself very much upon his general +knowledge of agricultural pursuits; and when I indulged in some sudden +bursts of admiration at the beauty of the surrounding prospect, he would +invariably check my enthusiasm, by observing that no animals could +possibly live in a country so overgrown with fern, and where no grass was +indigenous. These observations, often repeated, obliged me to qualify my +admiration of this picturesque and beautiful land; but my surprise, and I +may say my triumph, were complete when, on approaching the missionary +village of Kirikiri, we fell in with a herd of at least a hundred fat +cattle, browsing on the sides of the hill, and having nothing else but +this very fern to eat; and, on inquiry, we found they gave as good milk, +and were in as healthy a condition, as when they grazed on the rich +grasses of Lincolnshire. + +My friend, Captain Duke, made great preparations for the return of his +ships, and purchased many pigs to be salted. The self-denial of the +natives is wonderful: though very fond of animal food, they sell the +whole to us Europeans for the means of war; thus conquering the appetite +for the purpose of possessing arms to make them terrible in the sight of +their enemies. This feeling, properly directed, may lead to their +becoming a great nation. In the course of our saltings and picklings of +pork, owing to the warmth of the weather, a considerable quantity was +spoiled. I recommended its being immediately thrown into the sea, but +Duke, who knew the propensities of the people better than I did, and +wished to ingratiate himself among them, sent for some of his favourites, +and presented them with the damaged meat, with which they marched off +highly delighted, and made a public feast of it in the evening. + +[Illustration: New Zealand Method of Tattooing. (From a sketch by +A. Earle.)] + + + + +CHAPTER XXXII. + +THE ART OF TATTOOING. + + +The art of tattooing has been brought to such perfection here, that +whenever we have seen a New Zealander whose skin is thus ornamented, we +have admired him. It is looked upon as answering the same purposes as +clothes. When a chief throws off his mats, he seems as proud of +displaying the beautiful ornaments figured on his skin as a first-rate +exquisite is in exhibiting himself in his last fashionable attire. It is +an essential part of war-like preparations. The whole of this district of +Kororarika was preparing for the approaching war. Their canoes, muskets, +powder and balls, increased daily; and a very ingenious artist, called +Aranghie, arrived to carry on this important branch of his art, which was +soon placed in requisition, for all the mighty men in the neighbourhood +were one by one under his operating hands. + +As this "professor" was a near neighbour of mine, I frequently paid him a +visit in his "studio," and he returned the compliment whenever he had +time to spare. He was considered by his countrymen a perfect master in +the art of tattooing, and men of the highest rank and importance were in +the habit of travelling long journeys in order to put their skins under +his skilful hands. Indeed, so highly were his works esteemed, that I have +seen many of his drawings exhibited even after death. A neighbour of mine +very lately killed a chief who had been tattooed by Aranghie, and, +appreciating the artist's work so highly, he skinned the chieftain's +thighs, and covered his cartouch box with it. + +I was astonished to see with what boldness and precision Aranghie drew +his designs upon the skin, and what beautiful ornaments he produced; no +rule and compasses could be more exact than the lines and circles he +formed. So unrivalled is he in his profession, that a highly-finished +face of a chief from the hands of this artist is as greatly prized in New +Zealand as a head from the hands of Sir Thomas Lawrence is amongst us. It +was most gratifying to behold the respect these savages pay to the fine +arts. This "professor" was merely a _kooky_ or slave, but by skill and +industry he raised himself to an equality with the greatest men of his +country; and as every chief who employed him always made him some +handsome present, he soon became a man of wealth, and was constantly +surrounded by such important personages as Pungho Pungho, Ruky Ruky, Kivy +Kivy, Aranghy Tooker, etc., etc. My friend Shulitea (King George) sent +him every day the choicest things from his own table. Though thus basking +in the full sunshine of court favour, Aranghie, like a true genius, was +not puffed up with pride by his success, for he condescended to come and +take tea with me almost every evening. He was delighted with my drawings, +particularly with a portrait I made of him. He copied so well, and seemed +to enter with such interest into the few lessons of painting I gave him, +that if I were returning from here direct to England, I would certainly +bring him with me, as I look upon him as a great natural genius. + +[Illustration: Specimens of Tattooed Faces and Thigh. (From "Expedition +de l'Astrolabe.")] + +One of the important personages who came to the village to employ the +talent of our artist was a _Mr_. Rooky Rooky (and he was always very +particular in remembering the _Mister_); he brought four of his wives +with him, leaving six more at home (polygamy in New Zealand being allowed +to any extent). One of this man's wives was a little girl not more than +ten years of age, and she excited a great deal of interest amongst us, +which, when he discovered, he became very anxious to dispose of her to +any of us. He importuned us incessantly on the subject, saying she was +his slave, and offered her in exchange for a musket. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIII. + +TRIBAL GOVERNMENT AND RELIGION. + + +Though from my increased knowledge of the language, I was enabled to hold +longer conversations, I could not discover that the New Zealanders had +any universal form of government: there appeared to me to be no public +bodies, or any functionaries employed by the people. Each chief seemed to +possess absolute power over his own slaves, and there his authority +terminated. Wealth made him feared by his foes, but gave him no influence +over his friends. All offence offered to any one of a tribe (or clan) is +instantly followed by some act of retaliation by the aggrieved party; and +if one tribe is too weak to contend against the one from whom they have +received the injury, they call in the aid of another. But should the +offence be of a very aggravated nature, and several families be injured +by it, a meeting of the chiefs is called. They assemble in one of their +forts, and, after a discussion, decide either for an amicable adjustment, +or for an exterminating war. Thus these misguided beings are continually +destroying each other for some imaginary insult. + +I became acquainted with a few venerable men of truly noble and +praiseworthy characters, such as would do honour to any age, country, or +religion. They had passed their whole lives in travelling from one +chieftain's residence to another, for the purpose of endeavouring to +explain away insults, to offer apologies, and to strive by every means +in their power to establish peace between those about to plunge their +country into the horrors of war. I have several times met these +benevolent men journeying through the country on these pacific missions; +and twice during my residence here they have been the happy means of +preventing bloodshed. Although the New Zealander is so fond of war, and +possesses such war-like manners, yet are these peacemakers held in the +highest respect, although they do not hold any sacred function--indeed, +no order of priesthood exists amongst the natives. I have never +discovered any symptoms of religion in these people, except it consists +in a great variety of absurd and superstitious ceremonies. Before I +visited this island I used to imagine, from seeing so great a variety of +carved figures which had been brought from this country, that they were +idols, to whom they paid their devotions; but in this I was deceived. +They were merely the grotesque carvings of rude artists, possessing a +lively fancy, and were a proof of their industry as well as genius. Every +chief's house is adorned with an abundance of these carved monsters. One +of their favourite subjects is a lizard taking hold of the top of a man's +head; their tradition being that that was the origin of man. The lizard +is sacred, and never injured by them. Several of their chiefs assured me +they believed in the existence of a great and invisible spirit, called +Atna, who keeps a constant charge and watch over them; and that they are +constantly looking out for tokens of his approbation or displeasure. +There is not a wind that blows but they imagine it bears some message +from him. And there are not wanting crafty men who pretend to a much more +intimate knowledge of his sentiments than the generality, and they easily +work on the minds of the credulous and the ignorant. These imposters +obtain great consideration, and their counsel and advice is most +anxiously sought after by those about to undertake any important +business; but, like ancient astrologers and modern gypsies, they speak +only in ambiguous terms; so that whatever may be the result, their +prediction may still correspond with it. + +Like all rude and ignorant people, the New Zealanders seem more to fear +the wrath of their God than to love his attributes; and constant +sacrifices (too often human ones) are offered up to appease his anger. +They imagine that the just and glorious Deity is ever ready to destroy, +and that His hand is always stretched forth to execute vengeance. + +These sacred, or, more correctly speaking, these "cunning" men and women, +who pretend to see into futurity, and to hold an intercourse with the +Great Spirit, are here (in one way, at least) turned to a good and useful +account. As they themselves are held sacred, everything they wish to have +taken particular care of, they can render sacred also. All the chiefs +find these people of the greatest use in protecting their property, for +they possess the power of tabooing, and when once this ceremony is +performed over any person or thing, no one dares to touch either; and for +a sufficiently good bribe they will impart their sacred power to any +chief, who, by means of this device, thus can protect a field of potatoes +or grain, at fifty miles distance from his settlement, more securely and +effectually than by any fences, or number of persons he might place to +guard it. + +This ceremony of taboo, which is common to the whole of the South Sea +Islands, seems the principal part of their religion, and it is really +difficult to walk without trespassing or infringing on some spot under +this influence. All those who touch a corpse are immediately taboo'd, and +must be fed like an infant, as their own hands must not touch anything +that is put into their mouths. In fact, as we strolled through the +village at the time of their evening repast, it appeared as though some +dreadful disease had suddenly struck the greater part of the inhabitants, +and deprived them of the use of their limbs, most of them being either +fed by their slaves, or lying flat down on the ground, and with their +mouths eating out of their platters or baskets. The canoe that carries a +corpse to the place of its interment is, from that time, taboo'd and laid +up; and if any one by chance touches it, he does so at his peril. + +All those chiefs who were under the operating hands of Aranghie, the +tatooer, were under this law, and all those who worked upon their war +canoes were similarly situated. Unfortunately for me, I one day took away +a handful of chips from their dockyard to make our fire burn clearly. I +was informed they were taboo'd, and upon my pleading ignorance, and +sorrow for the misdemeanour, together with a promise not to renew the +offence, I was pardoned. A poor hen of ours did not escape so well; she, +poor thing, ventured to form a nest, and actually hatched a fine family +of chickens amongst these sacred shavings! Loud was the outcry, and great +the horror she occasioned when she marched forth cackling, with her merry +brood around her. She and "all her little ones" were sacrificed +instantly. What became of their bodies we could never learn; probably the +workmen were not too fastidious to eat them. + +I have observed, since my residence here, one circumstance which proves a +kind feeling in the natives, and shows they are not averse to the +preaching of the missionaries, or the doctrines they inculcate. + +It was the custom of all the Europeans settled here, on the beach at +Kororarika, to refrain from all kinds of work on the Sabbath; to shave, +and dress themselves in their best habiliments; and if any of the +missionaries came over, they went forth to meet them, and hear divine +service. Several of the natives generally assembled and witnessed the +ceremony; and as they observed it came every seventh day, they called it +"the white taboo'd day, when the pakeha (or white men) put on clean +clothes, and leave off work;" and, strange to say, the natives also +abstained from working on that day. Nothing could induce them to the +contrary; not that we wished to persuade them to work, but merely +endeavoured so to do to ascertain the strength of their politeness. Not a +bit of work would they do upon a Sunday, although it was a critical time +with them; for all the chiefs were unprepared with their war canoes for +the approaching expedition. At length we discovered that their cunning +was as conspicuous as their politeness. They had observed we generally +lay longer in bed on a Sunday morning than any other; they accordingly +were up by break of day, and had completed many hours' work before we +made our appearance; but the moment one of us did appear the work was +instantly left off. This degree of outward respect, though craftily +managed, was infinitely more than could be reasonably expected from a +rude and turbulent savage. It is mere respect than we Europeans pay to +any religious ceremony we do not understand. Even their taboo'd grounds +would not be so respected by us, if we were not quite certain they +possessed the power instantly to revenge any affront offered to their +sacred places. + +Of all animals introduced by the Europeans, the most unserviceable, and +indeed injurious, have been the dogs. They have increased rapidly; every +spot was crowded with poor half-starved curs, that were all night long +committing depredations on the poultry, pigs, and goats; and if some +effectual means of diminishing this pernicious breed is not soon resorted +to, the island will be cleared of every other quadruped. Goats were +beginning to increase, and the craggy heights round the bays formed a +favourite retreat for these interesting wanderers. Captain Duke put +himself to great expense and trouble, and effected the importation of +some sheep from Van Diemen's Land; but the dogs soon destroyed them all. + + +THE MASSACRE OF THE FRENCH NAVIGATOR MARION AND PARTY. + +Our friend George generally paid us a visit after the business of the day +was over, and took a cup of tea; wine or grog he detested: so, while he +sipped his beverage, we lit our pipes, and managed, with our slight +knowledge of his language, together with his imperfect English, to keep +up a sort of conversation. Sometimes this was rather wearisome; but +occasionally it became interesting in the extreme. He told us that, when +Captain Cook touched here, he was a little child; but that his mother +(old Turero, who was then with him) remembered his coming well. The +French navigator, Marion, he recollected perfectly, and made one of the +party that murdered him and his people. His observation was, "They were +all brave men; but they were killed and eaten." + +He assured us that the catastrophe was quite unpremeditated. Marion's +entire ignorance of the customs of the New Zealanders occasioned that +distressing event: as I have before observed, that strangers, not +acquainted with their religious prejudices, are likely to commit some +fatal error; and no action is more likely to lead a party into danger +than an incautious use of the seine, for most of the beaches (best suited +for that purpose) are taboo'd. This led to the dreadful fate of Marion +and his party. I understood from George, that when Marion's men assembled +to trail their net on the sacred beach, the natives used every kind of +entreaty and remonstrance to induce them to forbear, but, either from +ignorance or obstinacy, they persisted in their intentions, and drew +their net to land. + +The natives, greatly incensed by this act of impiety, vowed revenge; and +the suspicions of the French not being roused, an opportunity soon +presented itself of taking ample retaliation. The seine being very heavy, +the French required the assistance of the natives in drawing it on shore. +These wily fellows instantly consented to the task, and placed themselves +alternately between each Frenchman, apparently, to equalise the work. +Consequently, in the act of pulling, each native had a white man before +him; and, on an appointed signal, the brains of each European were +knocked out by a tremendous blow of the stone hatchet. + +Captain Marion, who, from his ship, was an eye-witness of these horrid +murders, instantly hastened on shore with the remainder of his crew to +avenge the slaughter of his countrymen. Led on more by ardour than +prudence, he suffered himself to be surrounded; was overpowered by +numbers, defeated, and every one was put to death! + +This account of George's does not, I acknowledge, exactly agree with the +published narrative of that unfortunate event, nor does his age agree +with the dates. Only a few years elapsed between the time of Cook and +Marion, yet he declares himself to have been a child at the death of the +navigator, and a man at the murder of the latter; but as it was voluntary +on his part to give me the above detail, and even if he were not present +himself, he most probably had the facts from one who was, I thought it +worth inserting, as tending to throw light on one of the most melancholy +events which ever took place on these coasts. + +George also related to me the dreadful tragedy of the ship Boyd, and, +horrible as these relations were, I felt a particular interest, almost +amounting to pleasure, in hearing them related by an eye-witness; one who +had been an actor in those bloody scenes which I had before read of: +narratives which from my very childhood had always possessed particular +charms for me; and at this time I was not only looking on the very spot +the hero of my imagination, Cook, had trod, but was hearing the tale from +one who had actually seen him; and was listening to every particular +concerning the transactions of Marion and his men, as though they had +just taken place. + +Even in the dreadful destruction of the Boyd, George laid the blame +entirely on the English, and spoke with great bitterness of the +ill-treatment of Philip, the native chief, who came as passenger in the +ship. He described and mimicked his cleaning shoes and knives; his being +flogged when he refused to do this degrading work; and, finally, his +speech to his countrymen when he came on shore, soliciting their +assistance in capturing the vessel, and revenging his ill-treatment. Over +and over again our friend George, having worked up his passion by a full +recollection of the subject, went through the whole tragedy. The scene +thus portrayed was interesting although horrible. No actor, trained in +the strictest rules of his art, could compete with George's vehemence of +action. The flexibility of his features enabled him to vary the +expression of each passion; and he represented hatred, anger, horror, and +the imploring of mercy so ably that, in short, one would have imagined he +had spent his whole life in practising the art of imitation. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIV. + +THE MAORI VIEW OF CHRISTIANITY. + + +I frequently conversed with George upon the subject of religion, and from +what he told me I found that the natives had not formed the slightest +idea of there being a state of future punishment. They refuse to believe +that the good Spirit intends to make them miserable after their decease. +They imagine all the actions of this life are punished here, and that +every one when dead, good or bad, bondsman or free, is assembled on an +island situated near the North Cape, where both the necessaries and +comforts of life will be found in the greatest abundance, and all will +enjoy a state of uninterrupted happiness. A people of their simple +habits, and possessing so little property, have but few temptations to +excesses of any kind, excepting the cruelties practised by them in war, +in which they fancy themselves perfectly justified, and the tyranny +exercised by them over their slaves, whom they look upon as mere +machines. There is, in fact, but little crime among them, for which +reason they cannot imagine any man wicked enough to deserve eternal +punishment. This opinion of theirs we saw an illustration of one Sunday, +when one of the missionaries paid us a visit. + +The ceremony of all assembling to public worship astonished the natives +greatly, though they always behaved with the utmost decorum when admitted +into the house where the ceremony takes place. On the day in question +the minister endeavoured to explain the sacred mysteries of our religion +to a number of the chiefs who were present. They listened attentively to +all he said, and expressed no doubts as to its truth, only remarking that +"as all these wonderful circumstances happened only in the country of the +white men, the great Spirit expected the white men only to believe them." +The missionary then began to expatiate on the torments of hell, at which +some of them seemed horrified, but others said "they were quite sure such +a place could only be made for the white faces, for they had no men half +wicked enough in New Zealand to be sent there;" but when the reverend +gentleman added with vehemence that "all men" would be condemned, the +savages all burst into a loud laugh, declaring "they would have nothing +to do with a God who delighted in such cruelties; and then (as a matter +of right) hoped the missionary would give them each a blanket for having +taken the trouble of listening to him so patiently." + +I cannot forbear censuring the missionaries, inasmuch as they prevent the +natives, by every means in their power, from acquiring the English +language. They make a point of mastering the native tongue as quickly as +possible, and being able to give their whole time and attention to it, +this is easily accomplished. It is of importance that they should do so, +otherwise they could not carry on the duties of the mission; but by thus +engrossing the knowledge, they obtain great influence over the minds of +the natives. We ourselves were sadly puzzled by a correspondence we had +with two native chiefs, who had been taught to read and write by some of +the Society; but their acquirements being in their native language, were +of no possible use. The difficulty of teaching them English would not +have been greater, and then what stores of information and improvement +might not their instructors have laid open to them. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXV. + +THREATENED INVASION BY HONGI. + + +We had passed some months here, and were beginning to look out for the +return of our brig, to take us again into civilised society, when we were +once more thrown into alarm by a threatened invasion. A rumour was +circulated in the village that Hongi, who now lay at the point of death, +had declared that he would make one last glorious effort before he +expired. He was resolved (it was reported) to collect his warriors, +overcome George and his followers, possess himself of Kororarika, and die +upon the conquered territory of his enemy; and I had no doubt that in his +moment of delirium such had been his exclamations, as it had always been +one of his favourite projects. When this was reported to George, he +immediately came to us, and with a most doleful countenance told us we +must take care of ourselves; for, if the report proved true, he was much +too weak to protect us. This certainly caused us some alarm, but, +fortunately for us, a good-sized whaler, the Marianne, was then lying at +anchor in the port, having arrived but a few days previously. The +presence of a ship, all over the world, is felt as a protection to +Europeans, as in case of danger it is a sure place of refuge. + +King George sent off his messengers in every direction to inform his +friends and dependants of the threats uttered against him by Hongi, and +the next day eight large war canoes, filled with warriors, came to his +assistance. They landed at some distance from the beach, and, as it was +late in the day, they would not make their public _entree_ till the next +morning; for the New Zealanders are very fond of giving a grand effect to +all their public meetings. I determined to pay them a visit, to witness +the ceremonies of the night bivouack, which proved a most picturesque +scene, and wild and beautiful in the extreme. Their watch fires glanced +upon the dark skins of these finely formed men, and on their bright +weapons. Some groups were dancing; others were lying round a fire, +chanting wild songs, descriptive of former wars; whilst the graver elders +sat in a circle, and discussed the present state of affairs. All were +delighted to see me, and each group offered to share their fire and +provisions with the "white visitor," as they termed me. + +The next morning these auxiliary forces were seen descending the hills to +our village; and, in order to return the compliment, we all went in our +best array to receive them. There were upwards of two hundred athletic, +naked savages, each armed with his firelock, and marching with the utmost +regularity. The chiefs took the lead. The alarm such a sight might have +created was dissipated by the certainty that they came as our protectors. +I even imagined their countenances were not so ferocious as usual but as +they approached near to our party, the usual sham fight began, +accompanied by the war dance, and although I expected it, and indeed had +come for the purpose of witnessing it, it was conducted with so much fury +on both sides, that at length I became quite horrified, and for some +time could not divest myself of the feeling that our visitors were +playing false, so closely did this mock combat resemble a real one. The +dreadful noises, the hideous faces, the screeching of the women, and the +menacing gestures of each party, were so calculated to inspire terror, +that stouter hearts than mine might have felt fear. When the tumult +subsided, the elder chiefs squatted down, and had the long talk usual on +these occasions. + +I was much delighted to recognise among these chiefs one I had known at +Sydney. During his residence in that city I had permitted him to remain +in my house, and the few presents which he had requested on his return to +his own country I had provided him with, and sent him off delighted and +happy, and never expected to behold him again. The moment I approached he +recollected me, jumped up from the "council," ran up to me, hugged me in +his arms, and rubbed noses so forcibly with me that I felt his friendship +for some time, besides being daubed all over most plentifully with red +ochre, which he, being then on a war-like and ceremonious visit, was +smeared with from head to foot. + +When my savage friend (whom we used to call Mr. Tookee) had overcome his +first burst of delight at seeing me, and had literally left off jumping +for joy, he introduced me to his father, Mr. De Frookee, the chief of his +tribe, a very fine specimen of an old New Zealander, who was (I found) +highly respected for his integrity and benevolence. His eyes overflowed +with tears when he heard I was the person who had shown such kindness to +his son at Sydney. I soon felt quite "at home" with the old chief, and +experienced the good effect of having kept my word with this uncultivated +savage. I had, at the time I presented him with the gifts, been much +laughed at by my acquaintances at Sydney for putting myself to such +unnecessary expense; but, from the gratitude he displayed for the +trifling services I had then rendered him, I felt assured he and his +companions would do all in their power to protect me from every danger. + +A long discussion was now carried on, one speaker at a time occupying the +oblong space round which the warriors sat, and the more animated the +debate, the faster ran the speaker to and fro, flourishing his hatchet in +a most dexterous manner. The instant one speaker finishes, another starts +up to answer him; but previous to rising they throw a mat or blanket over +their shoulders, and arrange it most tastefully around them; and, as +their attitudes are all striking and graceful, and a great part of the +figure is left exposed, it forms a study for an artist, well worth his +going many miles to witness, and invariably reminded me of the fine +models of antiquity. + +As a painter, I conceive that this must have been the great secret of the +perfection to which the Greek and Roman sculptors brought their works; as +they constantly contemplated the display of the human form in all its +beauty in their various gymnastic exercises, which enabled them to +transfer to marble such ease and elegance as we, living in an age of +coats and breeches, never shall be able to rival. + +After the important subjects had been settled by the elders, the young +men assembled without their weapons, and began another kind of sham +fight, one grappling with another, till hundreds of them were locked in +each other's arms, and were flung in heaps in every direction. After +they were tired of this pastime, a regular ring was formed, and a +wrestling match began, which was carried on in as regular and fair a +manner as a boxing match in our own country, and as much skill and +cunning were displayed in the art of throwing as the greatest connoisseur +would desire. I was pleased, also, to observe that, whatever happened +(and some most severe throws and blows passed), nothing could disturb +their good humour. + +This party, having remained for seven days on our beach, and not hearing +anything more of our intended invaders, their provisions also becoming +rather scarce, took leave in order to return to their own district, +placing scouts to give them quick intelligence of the movements of the +enemy. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVI. + +ARRIVAL OF A WARSHIP. + + +A few days after the departure of this friendly tribe, a "King's ship" of +eighteen guns arrived in the Bay; consequently all our fears of an +immediate invasion were over. No sooner had she cast anchor than our +friend George came to us, expressing the greatest anxiety to visit King +George of England's warship, and requesting we would accompany him, which +we readily agreed to do; and he left us to adorn himself for the +occasion. Soon after he reappeared in great state. A very splendid +war-mat was thrown over his shoulders; his hair was dressed, oiled, and +decorated with feathers, and his person was plentifully covered with red +ochre: he appeared a very fine-looking fellow: his mother, his three +wives, and all his sons and daughters were dressed in equal magnificence, +and accompanied him. + +In this state we went off to visit the vessel; but the moment I came +alongside, I repented my being there, for the rude and churlish manner in +which we were received distressed me considerably. In the first place, an +order was given that none but the chief himself should be allowed to come +on board; consequently his wives and daughters were obliged to remain in +the canoe. The captain spoke only a few words to George, who was allowed +to remain but a few minutes in the cabin; on getting up to take leave, +George took off his fine war-mantle and presented it to the captain; but, +receiving no other covering in return for his gift, he went on shore +naked! The officers of the vessel behaved differently: they conducted us +all down into the gun-room, where they treated us most kindly, and paid +every attention to our friend George, whose dignity was deeply wounded by +the cool and contemptuous behaviour of the captain. + +How greatly is it to be regretted that some arrangements are not made by +our Government at Home, and that there are not orders given to commanders +of ships of war touching here to pay attention to the chiefs, and to make +some trifling presents amongst them; for there never were a people more +anxious to cultivate a friendly intercourse with British subjects than +the inhabitants of New Zealand: and yet there is scarcely a Government +vessel that puts into port here but the natives receive some insult, +though they are sent for the express purpose of supporting the dignity of +the English nation, and to cultivate the amicable feelings of the chiefs. + +When a "King's ship" comes to anchor, the chiefs (with all the glee of +children going to a fair) collect together their wives, children, and +friends, and pay a visit to the "fighting ships," to see King George's +warriors (as they call them): when they come alongside they are kept off +by an armed sentry; and, after a long parley, they are informed the chief +may come, but his family and friends must not. In this case, the natives +generally spit at the vessel, and, uttering execrations on their +inhospitality, return on shore. + +One of the savage chieftains who accompanied us to the vessel in +question, on our way back remarked, "that the white warriors were +_afraid_ of admitting them, though they were unarmed and but a few; while +the warriors in the ships were many, and armed with their great guns." + +Living entirely amongst these people so long as I had done, I felt the +absurdity of such conduct, and the folly of treating them so harshly. If +ever individuals are so situated as to need either the esteem or the +confidence of savages, they must bear with their prying and childish +curiosity, and not be afraid of treating them too kindly; by this means +they become the quietest and gentlest creatures in the world; but, if +treated with contumely, and their wives and families repulsed from your +ship, they become dangerous, vindictive, and cruel neighbours, as many a +dreadful deed which has taken place in this vicinity will fully prove. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVII. + +THE WHALERS AND THE MISSIONARIES. + + +The South Sea whalers are the ships the natives are the most anxious to +see on their coasts; and it is the crews of those vessels who have, in a +manner, civilised these hardy islanders. Captain Gardiner, of the +Marianne (the vessel now in the harbour), is the oldest person in that +trade; and he informed me, that not longer than twenty years back +scarcely any vessel would dare to touch at New Zealand; and when, from +particular circumstances, they were obliged so to do, they kept their +boarding-nettings up, and kept a strict guard night and day: their fears +arose from a want of knowledge of the disposition of the people. The +vessels frequenting the island use no precautions now: hundreds of +natives are permitted to crowd on board each ship; and no accident has +ever occurred from this mode of treatment. But when a ship of war arrives +here for the first time, the precautions taken are, to arm the row-guard +with cutlasses and pistols, and to harass the crew with constant +watching, while the only enemy that exists is in their own imaginations. +To the courage and enterprise of the commanders of whalers all credit is +due for working the rapid change in these once bloody-minded savages, and +forming safe and commodious harbours for their vessels to refit in: this +have they done in a part of the world lately looked upon with horror. +What credit soever the missionaries may take to themselves, or try to +make their supporters in England believe, every man who has visited this +place, and will speak his mind freely and disinterestedly, must +acknowledge _they_ have had no share in bringing about this change of +character; but, on the contrary, they have done all that in them lay to +injure the reputation of the whaler in the estimation of the natives. +Hitherto they have not succeeded: their want of hospitality and kindness +to their own countrymen raises a strong dislike to them in the minds of +these unsophisticated people. According to their simple notions of right +and wrong, they think the want of hospitality an unpardonable offence, +and that the counsel or advice of a man who shuts his door against his +neighbour is not worthy of being attended to. + +I will give the reader one more anecdote of these men, who are sent out +to set an example of the beauty of the Christian faith to the +unenlightened heathens. A few weeks since, the festival of Christmas took +place; and Englishmen, in whatever part of the world they chance to be, +make a point of assembling together on that day, our recollections then +being associated with "home" and our families, uniting to spend that day +in mutual congratulations and wishes for happiness. For some time +previous to its arrival, the captains of the two whalers and myself had +been deliberating where we should spend this social day; and it was +finally settled that we should cross the bay to Te Puna, a beautiful and +romantic spot, the residence of an intelligent chief, called Warri Pork, +and an Englishman, named Hanson. Near this was a church missionary +establishment; and at this Englishman's house we determined we would +spend the day. The captains of the two whalers then in the harbour +joined our party; and as everyone contributed his share towards our +picnic feast, the joint stock made altogether a respectable appearance. + +We proceeded to Te Puna in two whaleboats: it was a most delightful trip, +the scenery being strikingly beautiful. The village of Ranghe Hue, +belonging to Warri Pork, is situated on the summit of an immense and +abrupt hill: the huts belonging to the savages appeared, in many places, +as though they were overhanging the sea, the height being crowned with a +mighty pah. At the bottom of this hill, and in a beautiful valley, the +cottages of the missionaries are situated, complete pictures of English +comfort, content, and prosperity; they are close to a bright sandy beach: +a beautiful green slope lies in their rear, and a clear and never-failing +stream of water runs by the side of their enclosures. As the boats +approached this lovely spot, I was in an ecstasy of delight: such a happy +mixture of savage and civilised life I had never seen before; and when I +observed the white smoke curling out of the chimneys of my countrymen, I +anticipated the joyful surprise, the hearty welcome, the smiling faces, +and old Christmas compliments that were going to take place, and the +great pleasure it would give our secluded countrymen to meet us, in these +distant regions, at this happy season, and talk of our relatives and +friends in England. + +My romantic notions were soon crushed; our landing gave no pleasure to +these secluded Englishmen: they gave us no welcome; but, as our boats +approached the shore, they walked away to their own dwellings, closed +their gates and doors after them, and gazed at us through their windows; +and during three days that we passed in a hut quite near them, they +never exchanged one word with any of the party. Thus foiled in our hopes +of spending a social day with our compatriots, after our dinner was over +we sent materials for making a bowl of punch up the hill to the chiefs, +and spent the remainder of the day surrounded by generous savages, who +were delighted with our company, and who did everything in their power to +make us comfortable. In the course of the afternoon two of the mission +came up to preach; but the savages were so angry with them for not +showing more kindness to their own countrymen, that none would listen to +them. + +I have visited many of the Roman Catholic missionary establishments; +their priests adopt quite a different line of conduct: they are cheerful +and kind to the savage pagan, and polite and attentive to their European +brethren; they have gained the esteem of those they have been sent to +convert; they have introduced their own language amongst them, which +enables them to have intercourse with strangers; and, however we may +differ in some tenets of religious belief, we must acknowledge the +success of their mission. They have brought nearly the whole of the +Indian population in South America into the bosom of their church; and +their converts form the greater part of the people. Notwithstanding the +numerous church and sectarian missionaries sent from England, I never met +with one Indian converted by them. I have attended mass in an Indian +village; a native priest performed the ceremony, and the whole +congregation (except myself) were of his cast and complexion: and, it is +worthy of remark, that in Peru, and some of the most populous provinces, +a pagan is scarcely to be found. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVIII. + +THREATENED WAR. + + +We now heard that Tetoro (one of the most powerful chiefs of this part of +the island) had taken offence, and had sent a defiance to King George, +saying he intended coming to seek revenge, accompanied by a strong body +of warriors; and the "herald" who brought this proclamation informed us +that the English settlers were to be attacked and plundered also. + +We had every reason to fear this might prove a more calamitous affair +than any we had yet experienced; as George immediately collected all his +family and dependents, and took his departure for the Kawakawa river (the +residence of De Kookie, the chief who had come to his assistance against +Hongi's attack), leaving behind only a few slaves. Thus a second time +were we left to our own resources on Kororarika Beach. George and his +followers were too much scattered: some were trading with the ships, +others were distributed in various districts, attending to their +agricultural pursuits. Thus separated, each might become an easy prey to +any of the powerful chiefs; but, were they united, they would be too +strong for any of the tribes: unfortunately the hope of gain made them +risk so great a danger. At this period, too, there was not a single +vessel in the bay to protect us. The known partiality of all the tribes +for Europeans was the only consolation we had; and we endeavoured to +cheer each other with this hope, under what in reality might be +considered very appalling circumstances. + +After enduring this state of suspense and anxiety for several days, and +no enemy appearing, we determined to pay a visit to the camp of the +combined army of our friends, which would, at the same time, gratify our +own curiosity, and give them a degree of satisfaction; as it would prove +to them that we were not afraid of venturing amongst them, even in times +of danger. We accordingly prepared the whaleboats to proceed up the +Kawakawa river; and, as I had never been there before, the present +afforded an excellent opportunity for exploring that picturesque spot. + +At the top of the Bay of Islands, two rivers disembogue, the Wye Catte +and the Kawakawa: they are both small but beautiful streams. It was early +in the morning when we started: the dewy mist rose from the unruffled +bosom of the river like the gradual lifting up of a curtain, and, at +length, displayed its lofty sides, covered with immense trees, the +verdure extending to the very edge of the water. All was quiet, +beautiful, and serene; the only sounds which broke the calm were the wild +notes of the tui (or New Zealand blackbird), the splashing of our own +oars, or the occasional flight of a wild duck (or shag), disturbed by our +approach. + +We rowed our boat many miles without seeing the slightest vestige of any +human inhabitants or civilisation: all appeared wild and magnificent as +if just fresh from the hands of nature; and it failed not to lead the +mind up to the contemplation of the Creator. It seemed utterly impossible +to reconcile the idea that such lonely, romantic, and sequestered scenes +could conceal hordes of savage cannibals, or that the tranquility of this +very place would soon be exchanged for the noise and tumult of savage +warfare. We soon reached the village where the coalesced chiefs had taken +up their station: they had fortified their position, and were waiting the +approach of the enemy. No sooner, however, was our arrival known, than +all came running down tumultuously to give us welcome: all business was +laid aside to greet our landing, and we were conducted with great +ceremony into the centre of the camp. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIX. + +CONSTRUCTION OF A PA. + + +We found eight hundred warriors, who (to use a sea phrase) were "all at +quarters." The magic pen of Scott might here have been well employed to +describe "The Gathering." The chiefs sat apart from their followers in +deep consultation: we did not approach near enough to hear their +discussion; but it ended by their paying us a high compliment for coming +amongst them. The young and active were busily employed in constructing a +strong stockade fort to annoy the enemy as he approached; others were +preparing their weapons, or practising the use of arms. + +The village itself was an object of extreme interest; and, after +contemplating the war-like preparations of the chiefs, we turned with +pleasure to gaze on the beauty of the surrounding country. In a plain, +surrounded by high hills, with a beautiful stream of water meandering +through it, was situated a group of huts; and many acres of cultivated +ground, neatly fenced and cleared, encircled them. Their harvest, +consisting of Indian corn, potatoes, and kumara, was now ready for +gathering, and all the women were busily occupied. As I from an eminence +looked down upon their labours, I could almost fancy I was in Italy, and +beheld the peasantry at work in their vineyards: but the adjacent camp +and naked warriors soon dissipated the illusion! + +On approaching the village we occasioned quite a commotion: the girls +brought forth baskets filled with cooked kumaras and peaches, while the +men erected a tent to screen us from the rays of the sun: indeed, all +seemed anxious to do something that should prove acceptable to us. We had +brought with us sufficient provision for a good dinner which was soon +cooked, and we invited them to partake of our fare, and a very merry and +noisy group we formed. After our repast, the chief warriors took us round +their camp, and exhibited to us all their means of defence, and the +different works they had thrown up. Where the use of artillery is +unknown, the principles of fortification are simple, and the New +Zealanders seem to possess a clear notion of the art: necessity being +with them the mother of invention. + +In the direction where the approach of the enemy was expected, they had +erected a strong square stockade, to molest the army; while the women and +children retired to the principal fort, which was very strong, and +situated at the summit of the highest hill: it had a breast-work all +round it about five feet high, and a broad ditch beyond that. The +fortress was large enough to contain several hundred men: it had a +spacious glacis in front, and every approach to it was so completely +exposed, that we thought even a body of regular troops, without +artillery, would have found it very difficult to storm; and to the New +Zealand warrior it seemed a wonderful and impregnable work. + +The chief who had the command of this fort was our old acquaintance Kiney +Kiney, a younger brother of King George's, who seemed proud of this +honour, and appeared highly delighted in showing us round, and +explaining everything to us; even condescending to ask our advice as to +any means of adding strength and security to the works. He listened +attentively to all our observations; and if he approved any alteration we +suggested he ordered it instantly to be carried into effect. I noticed a +thicket too near the fort, and told him I thought it might shelter a body +of men, and before I left the pa it was reduced to a heap of ashes. +Sentinels were posted in every direction to give notice of the approach +of an enemy. _Mr._ Kiney Kiney (as he was sometimes called) was +splendidly apparelled on this occasion: he had, by some means or other, +become possessed of a light infantry sabre, with all its paraphernalia of +belts and buckles; this was girded round his naked body, which gave him a +very gallant air, and, I have no doubt, was the envy and admiration of +all his followers. + + + + + +CHAPTER XL. + +A SHAM FIGHT. + + +After we had seen and approved all their preparations, we were treated +with a grand review and sham fight: they divided themselves into two +parties; one half the number took their station on a hill, and lay +concealed; the other party crouched on the plains to receive the attack, +all kneeling on one knee, with their eyes fixed on the spot whence they +expected the rush of their pretended enemies. In a moment, the concealed +party burst forth from their ambush, with a tremendous and simultaneous +shout, and the mock battle began with great fury. + +Nothing in nature can be imagined more horrible than the noise they make +on these occasions. I have heard, under circumstances of some peril, the +North American Indian war-whoop; but that is trifling compared with it +and their countenances are hideous beyond description. My principal +astonishment on these occasions was, that they did not actually kill each +other, or, at least, break each other's bones; for they seemed to strike +with all the fury and vigour of a real engagement; but they kept such +exact time, that at a moment's notice they all left off, and began joking +and laughing, except a very few, whom I observed to sneak away to wash +off some bloody witness, or to put a plaster on their broken skin. + +After these military and gymnastic exhibitions, they formed a grand +assembly, and the chiefs, as usual, made long speeches in rotation. This +rude parliament is one of the most beautiful features in savage +government: all public matters are discussed openly, grievances are +complained of, and justice is summarily administered. + +Thus, after spending a pleasant day, we rose to depart, and took an +affectionate leave of our entertainers, who were most anxious that we +should remain longer; but we thought we had better return to Kororarika, +where our property had been left. Most of the chiefs accompanied us to +our boats, and, after exhibiting various testimonies of their friendly +feeling towards us, they suffered us to depart. + +The day following this visit, we were alarmed by the appearance of two +war canoes crossing the bay: we waited their approach with considerable +anxiety: what few valuables we had with us we concealed about our +persons; but, as they neared our beach, our fears subsided, on finding +there were only a few men in each. Three chiefs (unarmed) landed, whom we +found to be Rivers and two of his near kinsmen, the most dreaded persons +of our expected invaders; but they immediately informed us they came on a +mission of peace, and, for that reason, had come to us unattended and +unarmed. + +We were most happy to hear this, and to find hostilities were again +likely to be deferred. Though we well knew the character of these men, +and that they were capable of the most treacherous acts, and the deepest +dissimulation, yet, their thus throwing themselves into our power, with +the olive branch in their hands, was irresistible; and we received them +with all the pomp we were capable of. We ordered a pig to be killed for +the feast, and requested them to remain for that night. In order to do +honour to our noble guests, and credit to our friend and ally King +George, we produced all the luxuries we had; and, in addition to the +pork, piles of pancakes and molasses were devoured: after this we gave +them tea, of which they are very fond; and, over our pipes, in the +evening, we informed them of the preparations the coalesced chiefs had +made for their reception, had their intentions been hostile. + +The next morning they embarked for the camp at Kawakawa, where, I +understood, they had considerable difficulty in arranging the "treaty of +peace": George having been so often alarmed, now that such great +preparations had been effected (as he well know the treacherous character +of his foe), he was unwilling to give up the hopes of conquest; however, +by the advice of the chiefs, it was finally settled amicably. George and +his friends accordingly returned to Kororarika, leaving a strong party at +the pa to finish the fortifications; and, though peace was made, our +party still kept themselves in a posture of defence. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLI. + +RETURN OF THE BRIG.--AN EXCITING INCIDENT. + + +We had been expecting with great anxiety the return of our brig; and, +soon after the termination of this affair, we had the pleasure of seeing +her enter the bay, after her cruise from Tongataboo and Tucopea. We found +that, on leaving the Bay of Islands, she had touched at the Thames, or +(as the natives call it) Hauraki, in order to land two chiefs, whom +Captain Dillon had taken thence two years before, and, in the confusion +occasioned by the disembarking, the visiting and congratulations of +friends (the vessel being under weigh), one chief was left on board, who +had not been discovered till all the canoes were out of sight, and there +remained no other alternative for him than to proceed on the whole +voyage. + +This was of no importance as it respected Tongataboo or Tucopea; but, on +his return to Kororarika, it was not only placing him, but all of us, in +a dreadful dilemma! His tribe being at deadly enmity with that of George, +the moment he was seen on deck (which was as soon as the vessel arrived), +George and all the men in the various canoes appeared to grow outrageous: +nothing would convince them but that we were in league with their +enemies, and had brought this spy into their territories from interested +motives; and they seemed resolved upon boarding the brig and executing +vengeance upon the unfortunate victim. To all our remonstrances George +replied, "Any other man than this I would have pardoned; but it was only +last year he killed, and helped to eat, my own uncle, whose death still +remains unrevenged: I cannot allow him to leave my country alive; if I +did, I should be despised for ever." + +I was greatly grieved at the circumstance; but, as I was somewhat of a +favourite with George, I succeeded in convincing him that it arose purely +from accident, and no intention of giving him offence; and he consented +to leave him on board, but cautioned us not to allow him to land. "If I +see him on shore he dies," he repeated several times. It would have been +well for us had we attended to this warning: we did not; and we +accordingly infringed on the customs of his country; thus placing +ourselves in a most perilous situation with the natives, and plainly +showing that the imprudence of our countrymen is invariably the cause of +quarrels and misunderstandings with these islanders. + +Some days having passed since this altercation with George, we thought no +more about it. The brig, from various causes, was certain to remain some +time in this harbour; and, as our New Zealand guest expressed a great +desire to go on shore one day, we consented to his accompanying us. We +had scarcely entered our house, when we had reason to repent the +imprudent step we had taken: all the natives were in commotion; +messengers were sent off to George to acquaint him with the circumstance, +and soon after we saw him, attended by all his relations, accoutred for +war; that is, quite naked, their skins oiled and painted, and armed with +muskets. Fury was in their looks and gestures as they hastened towards +our residence. We had scarcely time to shut and fasten our door, when +they made a rush to force it; and we had a severe struggle to keep them +out. At one period their rage became so ungovernable that we expected +every instant they would fire on us for preventing their entrance. The +man who was the cause of all this violence crept into our bedroom, and +kept out of sight; but he did not, at any period of the disturbance, +exhibit the least sign of fear, so accustomed are they from childhood to +these deadly frays. + +When the natives found we would not give up the man, but that they must +murder us before they could accomplish their revenge, the disappointment +rendered them nearly frantic. Our situation was most critical and +appalling; and nothing can be a more convincing proof of the influence +the Europeans have obtained over them, than that, at such a moment, they +should have refrained from setting fire to or pulling down the house, and +sacrificing every one of us. George again remonstrated with us, assuring +us it was his sacred duty to destroy this man, now he was in his +territory; a duty which, he said, he owed to the memory of his murdered +relations, and which must be performed, even though he should sacrifice +his "good English friends." He cautioned us not to stand between him and +his enemy, who must die before the sun set, pointing, at the same time, +to that luminary, and ordering his slaves to kindle a large fire to roast +him on. Finally, he and his friends planted themselves all round the +house to prevent the escape of their victim. Thus were we environed with +fifty or sixty well armed and exasperated savages. + +Our imprudence had given us no other alternative than either to give up +the man, who had put himself under our protection, or still to defend him +at the risk of our own lives: we instantly adopted the latter course. +Fortunately for us, a whaler was lying in the harbour, and a party of her +men were then on shore in the neighbourhood procuring water. We had sent +to them to explain the nature of our situation, and we saw them coming to +our assistance, though the numbers of natives at this time assembled +totally precluded all chance of our getting off by force; and a variety +of schemes were suggested as to how we should save the man's life, and +get clear of this difficulty, without sacrificing the good opinion we +were held in by the natives. + +We were well aware of the great importance it was to George to continue +on friendly terms with the English vessels touching here, as they not +only afforded him various sources of considerable profit, but the +intercourse gave him great importance in the eyes of his countrymen; and +we determined to make this circumstance a means of saving the man's life, +as we suspected that a threat of removing the seat of trade would soon +make him compromise his revenge for his interest. + +We therefore sent him a formal message, that, if he was resolved to kill +his enemy in our house, we had determined not to prevent him, but that we +would not stay to witness such a cruelty; and that we should immediately +remove every thing we possessed on board ship, leave the Bay of Islands, +and seek the protection and shelter of some other chief; and, if he +compelled us to do so, no other British ship would ever be seen at +Kororarika. + +We accordingly ordered the ship's boats ashore, and our things were +quickly conveyed into them. I trembled when I looked on the natives, and +saw the rage depicted on their countenances; and I, trusting in +Providence to avert from me the dreadful death with which I saw myself +threatened, prepared myself for some fatal catastrophe. Tumultuous +discussions ensued, and it at length became difficult for the elders to +restrain the impetuosity of the younger chiefs. Fortunately for us, their +vehement speeches soon produced a violent feud amongst themselves. Mutual +upbraidings took place: each accused the other of being the cause of +quarrel, and the consequent loss of the white men. This was precisely the +state of things we wished for; and, while we were waiting the return of +the last boat, a messenger came from the elder chiefs, to propose an +amicable adjustment of the affair. The chiefs promised that, if we would +reland our goods and remain with them, the man we protected should go +without molestation on board the brig; but, if we persevered in leaving +them, the man should be killed before our eyes. This was what we +expected; and though I really now wished to leave them, being quite tired +of these perpetual broils, we assented, in order that the man's life +might be spared When they found we agreed to their proposal, they +retreated out of sight, thereby carefully avoiding polluting their eyes +by looking upon their enemy. + +No sooner had they disappeared than I visited the poor fellow who had +been the cause of all this disturbance: he seemed half dead with anxiety; +but I soon revived him with the information that all was settled +amicably; and we lost no time in getting him off, which we safely +accomplished, though, as the boat which conveyed him left the shore, a +bullet whizzed close by me, aimed, no doubt, by some young fiery chief, +who had concealed himself in the bushes for that purpose. + +During this transaction I witnessed the natural kindness of heart and +disinterested tenderness of the female sex: no matter how distressing the +circumstance or appalling the danger, they are, in all countries, the +last to forsake man. While the enraged chiefs were yelling outside our +house, and all our exertions could scarcely prevent them from making a +forcible entry, all the women were sitting with, and trying to comfort +the unhappy cause of this calamity. They had cooked for him a delicate +dinner, brought him fruit, and were using every means by which they could +keep up his spirits and buoy up his hopes, confidently assuring him the +white men would not yield him up to his ferocious foes. Notwithstanding +all their exertions, he was miserable, till informed by me of his safety; +and I received the warmest thanks, and even blessings, from his "fair" +friends, as if I had conferred upon each a personal favour. + +The man being now in safety, we determined to demand satisfaction for the +affront which had been put upon us, and we sent George word we could not +again receive him into our house unless he made an ample apology for his +behaviour, painting in strong colours how deeply our feelings had been +wounded, and how much this indignity had lowered us in the esteem of all +our acquaintances. + +After some consultation among their leading men upon the subject of our +message, King George presented himself at the door of our hut, and, in +the most humble manner, surrendered his musket; and shortly after his +brother Kiney Kiney did the same. Thus we gained our point, and received +both payment and apologies for their violent behaviour. Friendship being +thus restored, we soon gave them back their muskets, to their infinite +surprise and satisfaction. + +On reflection, I felt quite convinced that the natives liked us the +better for what we had done: it afforded them also a lesson of humanity, +for they all well knew we had no other object in view when we stood +forward to defend the poor fellow, who had relied upon our promise of +protecting him. Several chiefs told us that they greatly admired our +principles, and should always feel themselves quite safe with men like +us, who would risk their own lives rather than break their word, or +desert a friend in the hour of danger. + +At the close of this eventful day we received another token of peace, +which was in its manner simple and affecting, and not such as could have +been expected from a nation of savages. A procession of young girls +approached our door, each bearing a basket: some were filled with nicely +cooked potatoes, others with various fruits and flowers, which they set +down before us, chanting, in a low voice, a song in praise of our recent +exploit; a man bearing a very large fish closed the procession; he +repeated the song also. We were informed that these presents had been +sent by King George as a ratification of friendship, for the New +Zealanders never think a reconciliation perfected till you have again +eaten and drank with them. + +Two important conclusions may be drawn from the termination of this +affair: first, that if a spirited interference takes place on the part of +the Europeans, murder may be at times prevented, as we actually rescued +a mortal foe from the vengeance of an exasperated enemy; and, secondly, +their efforts to restore amity proves their extreme desire to have white +people settle amongst them. + +About a week after this event we witnessed a most extraordinary ceremony, +which partook more of the ludicrous than the horrible, though I have no +doubt it was regarded by the natives as a most solemn affair. For some +days we had been honoured by the presence of a great priest, or one of +their chief tabooers; he came for the purpose of discussing with the +chiefs the affairs of the nation, particularly the approaching war with +the tribe of the Thames; and the day set apart for the discussion of the +principal points was ushered in by a rich feast, not of pork nor fish, +nor even the kumara, but of two old, sturdy, large dogs! + +I was much surprised on rising one morning to see Kiney Kiney, with +several chiefs of the highest rank, stripped, and performing the offices +of the meanest slave (the washing the feet of the pilgrims by cardinals +and persons of rank in Rome came instantly to my remembrance). These +chiefs were making a fire and cooking. I was still more astonished, on +approaching them, to find the nature of the food they were singeing and +scraping. This bow-wow meat they were preparing after the fashion of +pork: pigs being the only quadruped they have ever seen cooked, they of +course are not acquainted with any other way of dressing the animal +creation, and a sad bungling job they made of it; for the dogs were old +and tough, and the hair adhered most pertinaciously to the skin, and in +many places would not come off. + +There were only five persons allowed to partake of this delicious meal, +which was, as well as the five partakers, strictly taboo'd for the whole +of that day: and we strongly recommended them to hold a similar feast +every day, until they had cleared the country of these canine nuisances, +the dogs being the greatest pests they have. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLII. + +WAR-LIKE EXPEDITION TO THE THAMES. + + +One morning I was roused out of a sound sleep by continued discharges of +musketry from a number of war canoes. I jumped up instantly in alarm; but +I soon discovered them to be Atoi and his party, who had been absent +about two months on a war-like expedition to the Thames, and they were now +returning successful. + +I had witnessed the departure of this expedition, and considered it in +the light of a reconnoitring party. I could not make out what the real +object was they had been in search of; but, wherever they had been, they +had been victorious, for they now returned with quantities of plunder, +human heads, human flesh, and many prisoners! After the dance and sham +fight had been duly gone through, they proceeded to land their cargo of +spoil. First came a group of miserable creatures, women and children, +torn by violence from their native homes, henceforth to be the slaves of +their conquerors; some were miserably wounded and lacerated, others +looked half-starved, but all seemed wretched and dejected. + +The women of Kororarika, with their usual humanity, instantly surrounded +them, and endeavoured to console them, and then shed abundance of tears +over them. I enquired of one of the warriors what they had done with the +male prisoners: he coolly replied, they had all been eaten, except some +"titbits," which had been packed up in the baskets and brought on shore, +in order to regale particular friends and favourites! + +They had also brought with them several heads, which they have the art of +preparing in their native ovens, so as not to disfigure the countenance +nor injure the figure tatoo'd upon them. One of these, the skull of a +distinguished chief, seemed to afford them amazing delight. Most of our +people had known him well, and several of his near relations were +present: but cruel war seemed to have eradicated every feeling of +humanity; for all appeared to contemplate this ghastly object with great +satisfaction. These heads were decorated profusely with yellow and red +ribbons, and with white feathers: they were then stuck upon short poles, +and placed, with great ceremony, in front of the old Queen Turero's +house; who, sitting at the door, received this token of respect with +approval and condescension. + +The group altogether formed an interesting picture of savage manners, in +which ferocity was strongly blended with humanity, for their respect and +devotion to the old sybil was manifested as feelingly as their hatred +towards those whom they call their enemies: in fact, the young warrior +chiefs presenting to her (as was the case with several) their first +spoils of conquest, reminded me of young lions bringing part of the +spoils of the chase to their aged dam. + +In this affray only a few of Atoi's party had been wounded, and +twenty-five of the enemy had been killed. It was a fortunate circumstance +for the wretched prisoners that none of the conquering party had been +killed; for, if that had been the case, there would have been a dreadful +slaughter of the captives on their arrival at the village, an act of +cruelty never dispensed with. This sight I dreaded I should encounter +when I went to witness the disembarkation; but, hoping that my presence +might be some restraint upon their barbarities, I awaited the result with +as much firmness as I was master of. + +[Illustration: Old Pa and Whalers at Bay of Islands.] + + + + + +CHAPTER XLIII. + +VISITS OF WHALERS. + + +Two South Sea whalers were at this time lying in the bay: the Anne, from +London, a full ship; and the Lynx, from Sydney. Since I have been living +here, five vessels of this description have visited us; and many others +would have touched here but for the want of proper regulations, and a +dread of the dispositions of the natives. There being here no +representatives of the British Government, the crews of whalers are often +involved in disputes with the natives. This want of Government support +has also frightened other vessels away; their commanders preferring going +on to Port Jackson, where they half ruin themselves by the unavoidable +expenses they incur. Even when their vessels have anchored here, the +thoughtlessness and eccentricity of this class of men, when they are +under no restraint or control, has sometimes not only led to disputes +with the natives, but with each other, which eventually have proved +equally detrimental. In short, New Zealand is a place of such vast +importance to so many lucrative branches of British trade, that it must +be well worthy the speedy attention of our Government at home. + +We spoke frequently to our friend George, as well as to several other of +their powerful chiefs, respecting the erection of a small fort with a +British garrison, and of permanently hoisting the English flag. They +always expressed the utmost delight at the idea; and, from all I have +seen of them, I feel convinced it would prove a most politic measure. +George (who had visited Port Jackson) said: "This country is finer than +Port Jackson; yet the English go and settle there. Our people are much +better than the black natives of New South Wales, and yet you English +live amongst them in preference to us." + +The ship Anne, Captain Gray, was out three years, and during that period +she never entered a civilised port. She had touched twice at this bay, +and had cruised four months on the coast of Japan, off Timor, through the +Sandwich and Friendly Islands, and passed several times over the Pacific +Ocean, in order to obtain a cargo of sperm oil, which she at length +accomplished; and was at this time here to refit for her voyage home to +England round Cape Horn, having picked up most of her cargo off this +port. + +For twelve years past, notwithstanding all the disadvantages, this has +been the favourite resort for ships in the above-mentioned trade. Here, +surrounded with savages and cannibals, they heave down their vessels, +land the cargoes and stores, and carry on work, both on board and on +shore, in tolerable security. The safety of the harbour, the facility of +wooding and watering, the supplies of pigs and potatoes, tempt them to +run the risk of placing themselves in the power of capricious and +barbarous people. + +It has been imagined that the residence of missionaries would have the +effect of civilising the natives, and adding to the safety of ships +touching here; but experience fully proves the fallacy of such an +expectation. These people, abstracted by their own gloomy reflections, +look with contempt on all who are in the pursuit of "worldly wealth"; and +regard the arrival of a whaler as an enemy coming to interfere with the +spiritual interests of "their flock," as they term the inhabitants, +though I never yet saw one proselyte of their converting. + +They never visit a whaler except on a Sunday, and then it is to beg for +the benefit of their society. It cannot, therefore, be expected that much +sympathy can exist between parties, where the cold formality of one +excites the contempt and disgust of the other. + +The ship Anne, of which I have formerly spoken, arrived here lately from +Wahoo, one of the Sandwich Islands, which possesses the advantage of a +British consul. The pacific disposition and orderly government of the +natives do not require a British garrison, or any war-like force; and of +the excellent effects produced by this representation of our Government +Captain Gray speaks with admiration and enthusiasm. The harbours were +crowded with shipping; houses, nay, even streets, were beginning to +appear; the savage character of the people was gradually subsiding into +industrious and peaceful occupations; and comfort and prosperity were +spreading their benign influence over the whole island: yet Wahoo is not +nearly so well situated as a rendezvous for South Sea whalers as New +Zealand; at least so I have been informed by all the captains of those +ships who have conversed with me on the subject. + +It is rather a remarkable and novel circumstance that the natives, who +have been now for fourteen or fifteen years in close intercourse and +carrying on traffic with Europeans, should not, in the course of that +period, understand the nature and value of money; a laughable instance of +which occurred to us a few days since. A native came to our house with a +serious countenance and business-like manner, and said he wished to +purchase a musket: we asked to see what he had brought in exchange for +one, when, with great ceremony, he produced a copper penny piece in the +way of payment. The poor fellow had, doubtless, seen some one pass a +doubloon, and had mistaken his penny for one; as a doubloon is about the +price given for a musket in our regulated list of charges. We, of course, +refrained from laughter; but he was quite astonished and mortified when +he was made to understand we could not trade with him. He took a stroll +round the beach, offering his penny, by way of barter, to every white man +he met, but everywhere with equally bad success. + + + + +CHAPTER XLIV. + +VISIT OF TWO SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS. + + +When our brig left Tucopea she brought away two natives of that island, +who had most earnestly entreated the captain to take them off, and leave +them upon any other land he pleased, as, according to their statement, +Tucopea was so overstocked with inhabitants that it was scarcely possible +to find subsistence; and the scarcity of food had become so general, that +parents destroyed their children rather than witness their sufferings +from famine. Captain Kent, therefore, from motives of compassion, +received them on board his ship; and, not having touched at any inhabited +spot, brought them with him here. Their extraordinary appearance excited +a great deal of surprise, both among Europeans and New Zealanders. They +appeared simple, timid creatures, though stout and comely, but their hair +was unlike anything I had before beheld, as in length it reached below +the waist, and was so abundantly thick as completely to conceal their +faces. By some curious chemical process which the natives of Tucopea have +discovered, they render their hair a bright sulphur colour; and, as this +mass of yellow hangs over their faces and shoulders, they bear the most +striking resemblance to the lion monkeys of the Brazils. + +These poor creatures, upon landing, shook with fear, and trembled greatly +when they beheld the New Zealanders, whose character for cannibalism had +reached even their remote island: when our friend George went up to them, +and lifted up (in order to examine closely) the curious mass of hair in +which they were enveloped, they burst into a passionate fit of tears, and +ran up to us for protection. The New Zealanders, with characteristic +cunning, perceiving the horror they had created, tormented them still +more cruelly, by making grotesque signs, as if they were about to +commence devouring them; and, at the same time (like most savages), +evincing the most sovereign contempt for them, from their apparent +pusillanimity. + +After they had been some days on shore, we had a very diverting scene +with them, which exhibited strongly the great difference there is in the +nature of the two classes of savages we now had such opportunities of +observing. I had brought my violin from Sydney, on which I used to play +occasionally. The New Zealanders generally expressed the greatest dislike +to it; and my companions used to rally me much on the subject, saying it +was not that the savages did not like music, but it was my discordant +playing that frightened them away, which might be true. It was, however, +a useful discovery for us all, as I often took that method of civilly +driving them out of our house when we grew tired of their company. But +when I began to play before the Tucopeans, the effect it had instantly +upon them was ludicrous in the extreme. They sprang up, and began dancing +most furiously; at the same time, so waving their heads about as to keep +their long hair extended at its fullest length: as I played faster, they +quickened their pace. A lively Scotch reel seemed to render them nearly +frantic; and when I ceased playing, they threw themselves down on the +floor quite exhausted, and unable to articulate a word. I have observed +(generally speaking) that savages are not much affected by music; but +these two Tucopeans were excited to a most extraordinary degree. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLV. + +THE DEATH OF HONGI. + + +We at length received authentic intelligence of the death of the +celebrated Hongi. Finding his dissolution fast approaching, he convened a +meeting of all the neighbouring chiefs; and as many as could reach the +spot in time attended. The wounded warrior expired, surrounded by the men +he had so frequently led to battle and conquest. After the numerous and +desperate risks he had run, the many encounters he had sustained with +various enemies, it appeared extraordinary to us Europeans that he should +die quietly in his hut. It is the custom to keep a guarded and mysterious +silence relating to the subjects which are spoken of by a dying chief. I +questioned several who had attended Hongi: all spoke with the greatest +solemnity of his last moments. One sentence (uttered by him) was all I +could obtain after much manoeuvring, and that was spoken but a few +minutes before he breathed his last, which was, that "Shulitea (viz., our +friend George) would not live one week longer than himself"; but, as our +patron was in perfect health at the time, and all seemed peaceful around +him, I only laughed at the improbability of the prophecy being fulfilled. + +The natives of New Zealand pay the greatest respect to courage and +war-like talents: these were the only distinguishing characteristics of +Hongi; yet, by possessing these, he was more feared, and had a greater +number of followers, than any other chief in the island. His hereditary +possessions were but small, and his name was little known; yet his +undaunted courage, his skill, and success in many sanguinary battles, +made him, at length, a most powerful chief, and obtained for him that +which is considered wealth in this country, namely, an immense number of +slaves. In his last moments he was attended by more men of rank than had +ever before assembled to witness the dissolution of a warrior, and this +is considered the greatest proof of attention and respect one chieftain +can show towards another. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLVI. + +A TRIBAL CONFLICT. + + +Our brig now sailed for Hokianga to take in a cargo of planks; and my +friend, Mr. Shand, being tired of wandering, accompanied her; but I, +being still anxious to procure more sketches of this interesting country, +determined to remain as long as possible, and to take one more walk +across the island, and join the brig by the time she was loaded. I was +preparing to start on my last pedestrian tour, when a chain of events +occurred which threw all the tribes into confusion. Bloodshed and +devastation stared me in the face from all quarters; and from the state +of security I had imagined myself to be in, I was roused to behold myself +beset with difficulties; to crown which, our brig, which would have been +a place of safety and refuge, was now on the opposite side of the island. + +Arising from a trifling circumstance, which was partly caused by us, +though innocently, Pomare's only son had lost his life; and, as is usual +among savage tribes, the severest retaliation soon took place. + +By relating the particulars, the reader will perceive how easily the +war-cry is raised among these turbulent savages. + +Pomare's only surviving son. Tiki, was a very finely-formed, handsome +young man, of twenty years of age, and he had made an arrangement with a +captain of a ship here to supply him with a certain number of hogs. +Accordingly, accompanied by a party of his friends, he started into the +interior for the purpose of collecting them. In making his selection, he +not only proceeded to drive off some of his own, but actually laid claim +to, and began marching away with, some belonging to his neighbours. The +right owners remonstrated with him in vain. He, being an insolent, +over-bearing young fellow, persisted in his unjust claims, and set them +all at defiance. They were compelled to yield up their property, as his +tribe was a most powerful one; and Tiki was driving away the stolen hogs +in triumph, when a sudden stop was put to his predatory career. Finding +words were of no avail to induce the young man to restore the swine, one +of the injured party had recourse to a musket. A bullet, aimed from +behind a tree, killed Tiki on the spot; but from whose hand it came could +only be conjectured. The greatest confusion instantly took place. His +companions, being well armed, the war-cry was immediately raised; and the +fray becoming general, seven more lives were lost. + +When the account of this melancholy affair reached our beach, everyone +flew to arms, even all the women, for the young man was a general +favourite. The war-cry spread in every direction. "Here," they exclaimed, +"is the last of the Pomare family killed treacherously, a warrior related +to and connected with every chief of consequence in the country, and a +nephew of the great Shulitea." The cry for blood and revenge was +universal. I must confess that, added to the danger it placed me in, I +was much shocked when I heard of the fate of poor Tiki, for he was one of +our particular friends, and had passed many an evening in our hut. I had +taken leave of him only the day before, when he had set out, full of +health and spirits, on this hog expedition, which had terminated thus +fatally. + +The death of this young man excited the highest indignation in the minds +of his countrymen, as well as in those of his numerous intimate friends +and relations; for a report was industriously circulated that he had +fallen by the hands of a slave. This was considered by his tribe as a +degradation infinitely worse than the murder itself. The offended chiefs +assembled on our beach, with all their followers, armed: and none +appeared more indignant at the transaction than our friend George, who, +with his brother Kiney Kiney, placed themselves at the head of the party, +to revenge the insult which had been offered them. + +The night before they started on this expedition, George spent the +evening with us. He was in particularly low spirits, and said he did not +at all like the business he was going upon: but, as he was the nearest +relation of the deceased, and the eldest of the tribe, he went in hopes +of being able to prevent a great effusion of blood, and also to restrain +the impetuosity of the young men. Little did we then think he would be +the first victim; although his unusual depression of mind brought to my +remembrance the prophecy of Hongi, and, spite of my endeavours to banish +my forebodings, I felt convinced that the prediction would in all +probability be fulfilled. + +Three days had elapsed from the time the avenging party had gone on their +mission, when, at midnight, a messenger, faint and nearly exhausted, +arrived on our beach with the following dreadful intelligence; and that +night no other sounds were heard than those of agony and woe, the yelling +of women, and the shrieks of slaves. + +The substance of the man's information was, that George and the offending +party had met; but, as several days had passed since the murder of their +friend, their feelings were in some degree appeased, and they had +contented themselves with a general plunder of whatever property their +enemies possessed. They had spared their lives, and the outrage was +considered as atoned for. The chiefs were on their return home, laden +with spoil, when, like other coalesced armies, disagreements began to +take place among themselves, and discord long smothered, broke out in +every quarter of the camp. + +George, the principal person of their party, was the one marked to be +dissatisfied with. All were jealous of him, in consequence of his +possessions at Kororarika giving him such a decided advantage over every +other tribe, by his trade and intercourse with Europeans. It is probable, +also, that as the other tribes went forth with an intention to fight, +they were resolved not to be disappointed, and therefore determined to +create a feud among themselves, rather than return home devoid of the +pleasures or the trophies of a combat. + +Some irritating language had been uttered by both sides, when an accident +of a fatal nature took place, which produced an instantaneous and general +appeal to arms. At the close of the day a halt was made, as usual, and +each party began erecting their temporary huts to pass the night in. One +of George's wives, assisted by a little boy, his nephew, was busily +engaged in constructing one; arms and baggage of every description being +strewed about in all directions. At this period a lad took up one of +George's muskets, and began to play with it; but not understanding the +management of it, he, by his injudicious handling, accidentally +discharged the piece, and killed both the wife and nephew, the ball +passing through both their bodies. + +The sensation produced by this unfortunate accident may readily be +conceived. As the woman who was killed was related to the tribe who had +been disputing with George all day, her death furnished an ostensible +motive for open war; and before the real cause of the accident could be +explained, another shot was fired, which wounded a chief of the name of +Moo-de-wy in the thigh. This proved the signal for a general fight: each +party ran to their arms, ranged themselves under their different leaders, +and a general discharge of muskets immediately took place. + +Almost at the beginning of the combat George received a shot, which broke +both his legs: his brother and friends endeavoured to support him in +their arms. It being then nearly dark, added much to the confusion, as it +was difficult to distinguish friend from foe; indeed, so sudden had been +the onset, that many could scarcely have been aware of the cause of the +contest. But our unhappy friend, who seemed particularly marked out in +this unfortunate affray, soon after received another bullet, which struck +him on the throat, and terminated his existence; thus dying before a week +had passed since the death of his rival Hongi. I heard from one of his +friends who supported him in his last moments, that he died like a hero: +finding both his legs were broken, and that consequently he was totally +unable to move, he begged those friends who were about him to leave him +to his fate, and either again enter the fight, or make their escape +while they yet had time. He then gave his musket to one, took off his +mantle to present to another, and while thus in the act of exhorting his +friends and distributing amongst them his tokens of regard, he received +his death-wound, and expired without a groan. When George fell, a general +flight took place; and though the engagement had lasted but a short time, +great numbers had fallen on both sides. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLVII. + +THE DEATH OF KING GEORGE AND ITS CONSEQUENCES. + + +This news caused mourning and lamentation along our beach, and filled all +the Europeans with dismay. We could not calculate the extent of the +injury we might receive, but felt certain we should be considerable +sufferers in some way or other. The light of day seemed to add to, rather +than to diminish, the moans of George's faithful subjects. The violent +sobbings from every dwelling were most dismal. Groups were scattered +about, forming small crying parties, and cutting their skins deeply with +knives and pieces of broken glass; in short, nothing was heard but +yelling and groaning, and nothing was seen but streams of blood! + +But however shocked I might feel by the train of accidents and deaths +which had made such cruel havoc amongst my friends, and notwithstanding +my sincere grief and regret for the fate of poor George, who was a most +humane and intelligent chief, and particularly kind to all the English; +the predicament in which I was now placed demanded all my energies, for I +felt that I stood in a situation of great danger. + +I have before noticed their barbarous custom, on the death of a chief, of +plundering his family and friends. As we had always been considered as a +part of George's family, living under his protection, adopted by him, +and admitted into his tribe, I entertained great suspicions that we also +should be sufferers by the general plunder about to take place: besides, +I was so circumstanced as to be obliged to cross the country with all my +goods, and my route lay through the territories of all those chiefs who +had been fighting against George; and I was at no loss to guess in what +light they would regard me. Depending, too securely, on the general +tranquility, I had not sent my luggage by sea, as I might have done, and +which would have saved me great anxiety, as I should have ventured alone +without fear, but could not manage to carry what I possessed; and to +engage any to convey them was an impossibility, for the moment I made the +proposition to any (even the meanest of the slaves) to accompany me, they +ran off into the bush, nor could any entreaty, presents, or threats +induce them to venture with me; so, for security, I removed all the +property I had, and went with it on board the Marianne, whaler. + +For three days after the death of George, all gave themselves up to +grief; no work was done, and not an individual was to be seen but in an +agony of tears. I began to feel strangely affected with melancholy +myself, when, on the fourth morning, a scene of bustle took place, and +low spirits were banished by tumult, noise, and confusion. + +At six o'clock on that morning we discovered upwards of twenty sail of +war canoes, crowded with armed warriors, coming into the bay. What their +intentions were we could not imagine; but for fear of the worst, the +ships in the harbour shotted their guns, and when the canoes were abreast +of us, we fired a blank one over their heads. On this they all stopped, +and we saw some stir amongst them: at length a very small canoe left the +main body, and pulled directly towards us; it contained the chief persons +of the expedition: they came on board, and assured us they meant no harm +to any persons; they were merely some of the late George's friends, who +were going to pay a visit of condolence to his relations; and, after +making a most hearty breakfast with us, they went on shore, and we +accompanied them. + +Whether the account they gave of themselves was correct, or the reverse, +we knew not at the time; but we felt assured their intentions were not +hostile towards us Europeans, and their quarrels with each other we were +determined not to interfere in. We soon discovered their falsehood, for +George's eldest daughter informed me that amongst the chiefs who landed +with us were several of the most inveterate foes of her father, and that +they were only restrained from committing the most dreadful outrages, and +carrying off all her relations as slaves, by witnessing the many friends +of George by whom they were surrounded. The day was spent in savage +dancing, yelling, making speeches, and debating as to who the proper +person was to succeed George in his dignities: several times I thought +the affair would end in blows. George's relation, Rivers, made great +exertions "to keep the peace," and finally, by force of argument, +succeeded. It was at length unanimously agreed that Kiney Kiney was to +succeed his brother, and that Rivers should take the command until the +time of Kiney Kiney's mourning for the loss of George should be +completed. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLVIII. + +DEPARTURE FROM BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +After these important matters were amicably disposed of, I made a sign to +Rivers, and, separating him from the crowd, I explained to him the nature +of my situation, and asked his assistance in getting me safely over to +Hokianga. He replied, there would certainly be great danger in attempting +it; but I soon discovered that he magnified the difficulties in order to +increase his demand for payment, for even the greatest chiefs have here +their price. He said (and I had every reason to think he was correct) +that I ran no risk of being molested by any chiefs, like himself, who +would always protect rather than molest every European; but that the +country being in such a state of commotion, in consequence of the late +events, it was full of runaway slaves, who always took advantage of such +times to make their escape; and if I chanced to fall in with any of them, +I should be exposed to great peril: "However (he added), keep up your +spirits; I have two confidential slaves, who shall conduct you over, and +carry your luggage, if you will make me a present of a stocking full of +powder, a bag of small shot, and a powder-horn." He also proposed, as he +himself was going to the Kirikiri, and thence to a village in the +interior, to meet a large assemblage of chiefs, in order to talk over the +late tragical events, that I should journey the first part of my way +with him, in his own canoe. + +Accordingly, after having made preparations for my departure, I took +leave of all my friends at the Bay of Islands, both civilised and savage. +I must say I felt considerable regret when I found myself really going to +take final leave of several native families, with whom I had been on +terms of intimacy since my residence here, from whom I had received many +proofs of personal regard, and whom, I felt convinced, I should never +meet or hear of more; none I regretted parting with more than the family +of poor Shulitea; the mere sight of me seemed to rekindle all their grief +for the loss of their kinsman, and to remind them more forcibly than ever +of his tragical fate. His mother, old Turero, in point of grief, had +rivalled Niobe; she had never ceased weeping and lamenting from the time +she heard of her son's death, and had twice attempted to strangle +herself. But even in the midst of her passionate sorrow, I could scarcely +refrain from laughing, while observing her care and anxiety to get all +she could from me. After deploring the sad fate of her dear son, "You +know," she continued, "you promised him that you would send him a +handsome new musket from Sydney; and now, poor fellow, he is dead; and +cannot shoot with it; but then you must remember that his brother Kiney +Kiney is still alive, and he can shoot with it; and poor George would +wish that his brother should have his new musket." This speech I felt +quite irresistible; therefore, in order to comfort the old queen, I +promised that I would send the musket for her second son; which +declaration seemed to afford her great consolation, and considerably +abated the violence of her grief. + +Just at the dawn of morning we started from the bay in Rivers' canoe, +accompanied by his wife, one child, and the two stout slaves he had +mentioned to me. My luggage, which consisted of one leathern portmanteau +and my bed, was placed in the centre. I had also provided myself with a +small basket of cooked meat, with bread, and a small bottle of brandy, +which was given me by the captain of one of the whalers. The day broke +around us with more than usual brightness; the dewy mists of night were +just rising from the waters, and the huge and abrupt forms of the +mountains were beginning to develop themselves; flights of wild ducks and +stray birds skimmed rapidly by us. The thoughts that crowded my mind were +strange and varied, while contemplating scenes of such tranquil beauty as +were now presented, glowing with the tints of the rising sun. I +contrasted these with the difficulties and dangers I might have to +encounter from hordes of ferocious savages, who, now flushed with +conquest, were plotting murder and destruction against each other: even a +glance at my companions banished all peaceful illusions. While the wife, +son, and slaves were using the paddles with the greatest exertions, +Rivers was carefully examining his weapons. The beauty of the morning and +the romantic scenery was unnoticed: his thoughts were directed solely to +contemplating the depth and the width of my stocking of powder, which +seemed to afford him infinite satisfaction. He had with him a beautiful +double-barrelled gun, and a very good Tower musket; and seeing so many +wild ducks fly past, he drew the bullet out of one of the barrels of the +former, and, with some of my stock of small shot, fired occasionally +amongst them. + +At about eight o'clock a light sea breeze sprang up: they then set their +sail, and all went to sleep, excepting one slave, who was employed to +steer the canoe; so that I had ample time to ruminate upon my solitary +and perilous situation. The tide failed us at twelve o'clock, and we then +went on shore, kindled a fire, and soon collected such a supply of +shell-fish as furnished us a splendid repast. Here we remained till the +flood-tide set in strong, when, again hoisting our sail, we arrived at +the Kirikiri about sunset. + +I here found the missionaries in the greatest consternation and dismay, +and learned that it was one of the chiefs of Hokianga who had shot +George, and they dreaded lest the result of that deed should be that the +whole of the savage tribes on that part of the island would be opposed to +each other; that combats would ensue; and which side soever might be +victorious, it would prove equally injurious to them, as they had +settlements on both sides of the island. But their greatest alarm was +occasioned by their possessions at Hokianga, as the most violent +depredations were there being committed; and as this was the very point +of my destination, the news was not very consolatory to me. "So anxious," +said one of "the brethren" to me, "were we to inform our Christian +brethren of our danger, that we actually gave a _warm piece_ to a native +to carry a letter over to you, although that is strictly contrary to our +orders." I expressed a desire to know what he meant by a _warm piece_; he +kicked his foot against the stock of a gun I had at the time in my hand; +and, looking at me with an expression of the greatest contempt, said, "It +is what _you worldly_ folks call a musket!" + +They were making considerable preparations to repair to the great meeting +of the chiefs, to which Rivers was journeying. This was a wise and +politic measure for them to pursue; and they were highly delighted to +have such an addition to their party as this well-known chief; and though +they would not acknowledge it, their satisfaction was very visible. I +earnestly requested them to inform me candidly, from all they had heard, +whether they thought I might, with safety, venture across the country; +but I could get nothing from them but vague and mysterious answers: one +thing, however, they made me very clearly understand; which was, that +they neither cared for me nor for my drawings; that their own safety +engrossed all their thoughts; and that a worldly-minded, misguided +creature like me was but as dust in the balance, compared to such godly +people as themselves, who were now placed in jeopardy. They, without +scruple, applied quotations from the Scriptures to themselves, such as, +"Why do the heathen so furiously rage," etc., etc. + +My necessities compelled me to request a favour from them, which was, +that they would allow one of their boys, who could speak English, to +accompany me, as our loads were heavy; and his being known to belong to +their establishment I thought might be some protection; but the short +answer of the monosyllable "_No_" soon made me repent having asked it. I +spread my bed in one of their empty rooms; and started at daybreak next +morning, with my two native slaves. I could not banish from my +remembrance the inhospitable conduct of these missionaries; they never +even inquired whether I had any provision for a journey they themselves +would not have dared to undertake, which was evident by their giving a +native a _warm piece_ for merely taking a letter for them. As my shoes +were nearly worn out, and I had a long distance to go, over execrable +roads, I had intended asking them for a new pair, as they had abundance +of everything of the kind sent to them from England, to distribute to the +needy (and I fully came under that description of character); but finding +them so selfish and cold-hearted, and meeting with one refusal, I +refrained, and set off, literally almost barefooted. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLIX. + +THE JOURNEY TO HOKIANGA. + + +We journeyed on all day by a road I had never been before, my attendants +evidently taking by-paths to avoid meeting stragglers or runaways. I was +well laden, having to carry my musket and my basket of provisions; and +each of my men, in addition to the loads I had placed on his shoulders, +bore a basket of potatoes. Once or twice, during our route, we saw some +persons at a distance, and I was sorry to notice the great alarm it +occasioned to my companions, as I now had every reason to apprehend, +that, in case of danger, they would slip off their burdens, make their +escape, and leave me and my baggage to my fate, which the missionaries +had told me they considered a thing very likely to happen. Once we heard +a great firing of muskets, which I afterwards ascertained to be the _feu +de joie_ fired at the first meeting of the chiefs, at their grand +assembling in the neutral village. + +At night, we arrived safe at Patuone's Village, where I had slept on my +first journey across the island; but it now presented a very different +appearance to what it had done then; instead of the tumult I had formerly +heard, all was silence; the numerous families then there, all fully +occupied, were exchanged for a few old surly-looking slaves, and the +huts were all deserted. The inhabitants, in consequence of the rumour of +approaching war, having betaken themselves to one of their fortified pas, +I had no alternative but to pass the night with these suspicious-looking +creatures, who, feeling themselves beyond the control of their cruel +masters, soon gave way to their own vile passions, and became most +impertinent and intrusive--taking every advantage of my loneliness to +indulge their curiosity and familiarity. + +On my arrival, I had deposited my things in one of the empty huts, and +spread my bed, hoping to enjoy the luxury of a few hours' repose after +the fatigue and great anxieties of the day; but these fellows would force +themselves into the hut I had chosen, where they lighted a fire, and sat +chattering around it all the night long. Finding that I did not appear +alarmed at their intrusion or noise, they kept doing everything they +could think of to rouse my fears. They threatened to break open my +portmanteau; and one old wretch sharpened his knife, and made motions as +though he were going to cut my throat and eat me. I knew my only chance +of safety was not to betray any sign of apprehension; so I forced a +laugh, and made them believe I considered their tricks an excellent joke. +I gave them all my tobacco to keep them in good humour; but I passed a +most miserable night, nearly suffocated with smoke, distracted with their +noise, and annoyed by vermin of every description. + +I was most happy when daybreak gave me an excuse for leaving these brutal +savages, and resuming my journey. Every step I took brought before me +proofs of the horrors of war: villages which had been crowded, were now +entirely desolate, and, in many instances, burned to the ground. On that +spot where I had left a party of enterprising Scotchmen busily employed +in sawing timber, with crowds of natives assisting them, all was quiet +and totally deserted, with the exception of a few nearly starved, +wretched-looking dogs, who, hearing someone approach, came out, and tried +to bark at us, but were too weak to utter a sound. + + + + + +CHAPTER L. + +EUROPEAN PREPARATIONS FOR DEFENCE. + + +Our march along the banks of the river was through a most beautiful +country; but all the inhabitants had fled; their plantations were in a +most luxuriant state; fields which I had left bare and uncultivated were +now covered with Indian corn standing higher than my head, the ripe ears +hanging fantastically in all directions, and none to gather in the +harvest; the crops of kumara and potatoes were equally abundant. I could +not help thinking that, if they expected an invasion of their enemies, +they had left an ample supply of forage for their use. In the evening I +arrived at Horeke, or Deptford Dock-yard (of which I made mention in my +first journey). I here found my countrymen in a state of considerable +embarrassment. The various chiefs of that district had encamped all round +them; so near to them had they taken up their position, that, whatever +might be the result of their battles, the European settlement would be in +danger. The settlers had fortified their place of refuge in the best +manner they could; and all were determined to defend themselves and +property to the last. They had four nine-pounders mounted on a hill, and +a tolerable battery made of three-inch pine stuff. + +Before the English erected their fortifications, there was a great +difference of opinion amongst them as to the propriety and utility of +adopting so strong a measure, and the affair was finally put to the vote, +when the majority proved to be in favour of a strong resistance. I +opposed the measure all I could, for I felt convinced that in the event +of our allies being worsted we all should be involved in one common +massacre; whereas, if no resistance was made, plunder alone would have +been the extent of the injury we should suffer; and even of that taking +place I had strong doubts. However, as my opinion was overruled, I had to +submit, which I did unhesitatingly; and, like a good soldier, I held +myself in readiness in case of an attack. + +The proprietor and manager of the Dock-yard possessed certainly a +"satisfying reason" for striving to defend himself at all hazards. The +vessel I had left here, on my former visit, in frame, was now nearly +completed, and a most beautiful one she was. He told me he would much +rather part with life than see her destroyed; and I confess I could fully +enter into his feelings on the subject; but as I had no such object at +stake, and was not quite enthusiastic enough to fight for a vessel I had +no share in, I felt very much inclined to let the natives war among +themselves without interference; but as we Europeans had agreed to assist +each other, I would not be behind-hand. + +I discharged Rivers' two slaves, and rewarded them liberally for +conducting me with safety through such a wild and perilous country; they +departed (after expressing the heartiest wishes for my reaching my own +home in safety, and thanks for my generosity) to join their master at the +great meeting of the chiefs in the interior. These men, while assisting +me, were performing a great service to their master, by acting as spies. +When we started from the Kirikiri each was armed with a musket; but when +we had accomplished about half the journey, they concealed these in a +hollow tree, under pretence of extreme fatigue. I felt convinced at the +time that was not their real reason for so doing; and afterwards I +learned the true motive. Had they been found armed when returning to +their master (who was hostile to those assembled round the Dock-yard), +they would have been detained; but, by their coming unarmed amongst us, +they were suffered to depart; and I have no doubt the information they +carried back to Rivers was very important. I did not mention to anyone +the hiding of these muskets in the woods, though, according to "The +Articles of War," I ought to have done so, as getting possession of them +would have added two more to our strength, and lessened that of our +enemy; my silence arose from a repugnance I felt to betray these poor +creatures, who had behaved so well to me. + +Although prepared for war, we were very well pleased to find no attack +was made upon us. Indeed, from the first, it had been my decided opinion, +that unless we interfered, and made ourselves by that means obnoxious, +they had too much respect for us, and were too anxious to retain our +kindly feelings towards them, to molest us; at the same time, I felt that +it might be a very politic measure to show them what powerful resistance +we could make, if driven to extremities. + +After passing a week of the greatest anxiety, on account of our expected +invasion, it afforded us the utmost satisfaction to receive a visit from +Mr. Hobbs, the Wesleyan missionary, one of the persons who had visited +the war-camp of the assembled chiefs, who were convened, on the death of +our lamented friend George, to debate and decide upon the momentous +question of peace or war. + +The subject (our informant stated) had been gone into at great length, +and stormy and fierce had been the discussion. Finally, the good sense of +the elder and more experienced chiefs prevailed over the fiercer passions +of the younger, and peace was decided upon. This event forms a new era in +"The Political History of the Few Zealanders," it being the first time so +great an assemblage had met to discuss openly a national question, or in +which they had allowed cool reasoning and good sense to prevail over +their habitual ferocity. As may naturally be supposed, where such various +interests were at stake, this pacific measure was not effected without +considerable opposition from the young and furious chiefs. The +provocations given by them to the elders, whose voices were for peace, +were considerable. They did not confine themselves to abuse, but fired +several muskets during debate, in hopes that one shot out of the many +might prove fatal; which, if it had, and any distinguished chief had been +killed, or even wounded, it would have immediately thrown all into +confusion. Even when pacific measures were decided upon by a very large +majority, and the chiefs were about to separate, a bullet was fired from +the pa, which had evidently been aimed at a chief, a well-known ally of +the late Shulitea, as it fell at his feet, and the earth it threw up fell +upon him. For a few seconds surprise kept all silent; but, as the angry +chief rose up, and was about to address the crowd, his friends eagerly +surrounded him, and hurried him away. + +This was the first instance on record, in which these people had laid a +statement of their private wrongs before a public assembly consisting of +deputies from every part of the island, and abided by the decision of the +majority; and it was the only instance of a chief being killed in battle, +and his decease not having been followed up by the plundering and +destruction of his whole family or tribe. + +This had been a question of peculiar interest to us Europeans, as several +of their great men had fallen in a skirmish (whether an accidental one or +a decided combat made not the slightest difference). We knew their +barbarous custom; and, consequently, we were preparing for scenes of +deadly revenge and insatiable fury to be acted by both parties, and which +must have involved all settled here in destruction. Our feelings may +therefore be imagined, when we were informed that a parliament had been +convened, and all the parties interested were present by invitation, and +took part in the debate. A central spot was fixed on to accommodate the +various chieftains. The causes of the accident were then explained; they +wept and lamented the fallen chiefs, and finally retired satisfied to +their several homes. Surely everyone who is interested in tracing our own +form of government, from the present time up to its first rude outline, +will perceive the similarity of causes and events, and will anticipate +the glorious prospect of beholding a clever, brave, and, I may add, noble +race of men, like the New Zealanders, rescued from barbarism. This +pacific and rational discussion among the chiefs seems, in reality, to +give promise of the germ of a regular reform. Should a few more such +meetings take place, and terminate in the same amicable manner (and I +think it very probable), some clever individual may rise up amongst them, +take the reins in his own hands, and establish something like a regular +form of government. + + + + + +CHAPTER LI. + +OBSERVATIONS ON THE SOCIAL CONDITIONS OF THE MAORIS. + + +Feeling that I was not likely now to be called upon to act offensively, I +considered myself at liberty to make numerous excursions round our +fortress, not only to admire this fertile and beautiful country, but to +visit some of my old friends. I was very much astonished and shocked at +seeing several very beautiful young women, whom I left only a few months +back in perfect health and strength, now reduced to mere "living +skeletons," and also to hear of the death of others by consumption. This +disease seems to be the scourge of the young; and when they are once +seized with its symptoms, they are very speedily brought to the grave. +The natives say, "It is Atua, the Great Spirit, coming into them, and +eating up their inside; for the patient can feel those parts gradually go +away, and then they become weaker and weaker till no more is left; after +which the Spirit sends them to the happy island." They never attempt any +means of curing or of alleviating the pains caused by this cruel +complaint; and all those under its influence are tabooed. I procured from +the brig all my remaining stores of tapioca, sago, arrowroot, and sugar, +and distributed them in the best way I could amongst my sick friends. +They were anxious for wine; but that portion of my sea-stock, as well as +spirits, had been long since expended. + +It seems unaccountable that the natives of an atmosphere so dry as this +is--a country in which there are no marshy bogs, and where, though there +is an abundance of water, it is generally seen in clear and sparkling +rills rushing down from the mountains into the rivers--should be subject +to so fatal a disease as galloping consumption. The only cause to which I +can attribute such an affliction is, their indifference to lying out all +night exposed to every change of weather--to cold and rain--which, in +young and tender constitutions, must produce the most pernicious +consequences. If some few are rendered hardy and robust by this process, +many, no doubt, are killed by it. I endeavoured to impress on the minds +of all my female friends the great danger of thus exposing themselves to +cold; but they only laughed at my precautions, and said, "If Atua wished +it, so it must be; they could not strive with the Great Spirit." + +I have heard so much said about the great impropriety of the white +settlers admitting the native females into their society, so much of the +scandalous conduct of captains of ships suffering their men to have +sweethearts during their stay in port, and so much urged in justification +of the indignation shown by the missionaries when this subject is touched +on by them, that I feel it necessary to state one decided benefit which +has resulted from that intercourse, and which, in my opinion, far more +than counterbalances the evil against which there has been raised so loud +an outcry. + +Before our intercourse took place with the New Zealanders, a universal +and unnatural custom existed amongst them, which was that of destroying +most of their female children in infancy, their excuse being that they +were quite as much trouble to rear, and consumed just as much food, as a +male child, and yet, when grown up, they were not fit to go to war as +their boys were. The strength and pride of a chief then consisted in the +number of his sons; while the few females who had been suffered to live +were invariably looked down upon by all with the utmost contempt. They +led a life of misery and degradation. The difference now is most +remarkable. The natives, seeing with what admiration strangers beheld +their fine young women, and what handsome presents were made to them, by +which their families were benefited, feeling also that their influence +was so powerful over the white men, have been latterly as anxious to +cherish and protect their infant girls as they were formerly cruelly bent +on destroying them. Therefore, if one sin has been, to a certain degree, +encouraged, a much greater one has been annihilated. Infanticide, the +former curse of this country, and the cause of its scanty population, a +crime every way calculated to make men bloody-minded and ferocious, and +to stifle every benevolent and tender feeling, has totally disappeared +wherever an intercourse has taken place between the natives and the crews +of European vessels. + +The New Zealand method of "courtship and matrimony" is a most +extraordinary one; so much so, that an observer could never imagine any +affection existed between the parties. A man sees a woman whom he fancies +he should like for a wife; he asks the consent of her father, or, if an +orphan, of her nearest relation, which, if he obtains, he carries his +"intended" off by force, she resisting with all her strength; and, as the +New Zealand girls are generally pretty robust, sometimes a dreadful +struggle takes place; both are soon stripped to the skin, and it is +sometimes the work of hours to remove the fair prize a hundred yards. If +she breaks away, she instantly flies from her antagonist, and he has his +labour to commence again. We may suppose that if the lady feels any wish +to be united to her would-be spouse, she will not make too violent an +opposition; but it sometimes happens that she secures her retreat into +her father's house, and the lover loses all chance of ever obtaining her; +whereas, if he can manage to carry her in triumph into his own, she +immediately, becomes his wife. The women have a decided aversion to +marriage, which can scarcely be wondered at, when we consider how they +are circumstanced. While they remain single, they enjoy all the +privileges of the other sex; they may rove where they please, and bestow +their favours on whom they choose, and are entirely beyond control or +restraint; but when married their freedom is at an end; they become mere +slaves, and sink gradually into domestic drudges to those who have the +power of life and death over them; and whether their conduct be criminal +or exemplary, they are equally likely to receive a blow, in a moment of +passion, of sufficient force to end life and slavery together! There are +many exceptions to this frightful picture; and I saw several old couples, +who had been united in youth, who had always lived in happiness together, +and whose kind and friendly manner towards each other set an example well +worthy of imitation in many English families. + + + + + +CHAPTER LII. + +A MAORI TANGI. + + +April 2nd.--This day, perceiving that an unusual number of canoes were +passing up the river, all proceeding towards the village of Par-Finneigh, +we hailed one; and, upon its coming alongside, we inquired what had +occurred, for every appearance of bustle or commotion amongst this +restless and war-like people is truly alarming. They informed us that the +great chief A-Rowa, who died four months since, and the ceremony of whose +"lying in state" I had been permitted by his eldest son to be a witness +of, was this day to be exposed to the view of his friends; was to be +cried over; and was finally to be deposited in the tomb of his ancestors. +As this was one of their imposing spectacles which I had never yet seen, +I was anxious to witness it. We soon got a boat ready, and a party of us +joined the throng, and proceeded with them to the village. Upon our +arrival thither, we found an immense concourse of people assembled; for +here, as in most uncivilised or early states of society, the disposition +and good qualities of the deceased are made known by the number of +friends and followers who meet at his funeral. As these New Zealanders +were all fully equipped in arms, they had more the appearance of a +hostile meeting in an enemy's camp, than of a group of mourners about to +be occupied in the melancholy duty of depositing out of sight for ever +the last remains of a beloved chief. + +Mooetara, the son and successor of the deceased, came to meet us on the +beach, and seemed much gratified by our attention, our appearance on this +solemn occasion giving him importance in the eyes of all the natives then +assembled. He gave orders for our being conducted with much ceremony to +the place of mourning, where, amidst a number of uncouth pieces of +carving (which, we were informed were all tombs reared in honour of the +memory of several former chiefs, and all tabooed), was erected a small +hut, covered in at the top with thatch, but open at the sides. In the +centre of this hut the bones of the deceased chief were exposed to view. +After having undergone the process of decomposition during four months' +exposure to heat, wind, and rain, they had been collected, cleaned, and +decorated with a quantity of fresh white feathers, which rendered the +appearance of the skull still more frightful. + +The women here invariably perform the parts of chief mourners; a group of +them, with the widow of the deceased at their head, kept up a most +mournful cadence, and at every pause in their dismal song slashed their +skins with a piece of shell, till their faces, necks, and arms were +literally streaming down with blood. This mourning and cutting is +completely a matter of business, and is sometimes carried on without +their feeling any real sorrow or sympathy. Parties kept arriving, and +when there was not room for them to thrust themselves round the hut, they +sat down in groups, perfectly unconcerned, employing themselves in +cleaning their firelocks, or playing off upon each other some practical +joke; but the moment a vacant space was presented near the hut, they +deliberately stripped themselves, put on a most sorrowful countenance, +and, seating themselves as near to the ornamented bones as possible, they +immediately began their howling and slashing; no one seemed to like the +idea of being outdone by his neighbour; but when the time allotted to +this ceremony had expired, all instantly jumped up, wiped themselves, put +on their mats, and joined the busy throng. There was, indeed, one real +mourner, who never moved from the bones, nor once lifted up her eyes from +them; she neither howled nor cut herself, and yet she inspired me with +pity and commiseration for her forlorn state. This woman had been the +only wife of the late chief; and I was informed they had lived many years +together, and had a large family; she looked as if she herself was on the +very brink of the grave. The contemplation of the mouldering remains of +her partner through life must have been, even to her savage mind, most +lacerating. + +After witnessing several parties perform their funeral ceremonies, and +imbibing, in some degree, the melancholy tone of mind such a sight must +necessarily create, we arose and joined Mooetara. Here I witnessed a +scene that reminded me of an English country fair. An immense number of +temporary huts had been erected for the accommodation of the chiefs and +their families, where they might repose after their exertions, while +their slaves cooked their provisions, of which an abundant quantity had +been provided, consisting of piles of kumara and Indian corn, with heaps +of fish, which were served out, to all who came for them, with a most +liberal hand, and which, of course, added not a little to the pleasure of +the day. After all had satisfied their hunger (and even the lowest slaves +were permitted, on this occasion, to have as much as they wished for) +they jumped up, flew to their muskets, and commenced their war dance with +great noise and vigour. The violence of their exertions caused their +recent wounds to bleed afresh, and added much to the horror of their +hideous grimaces. They then divided into two parties, and had a sham +battle. I must here do justice to the temperate habits of my savage +friends. During my residence in New Zealand, I have known but very few +who were addicted to drinking, and I scarcely ever saw one of them in a +state of intoxication; and, on this occasion, where a profusion of what +they esteem delicacies was provided gratuitously, they partook so +moderately of the tempting fare as not to be prevented using the most +violent exertions immediately after their meal. The entertainment being +now over, the different parties gathered up what remained of the portions +of food distributed to them, and without taking any leave of their +entertainer, or returning any thanks for his bountiful providing, they +all entered their canoes and paddled away. + + + + + +CHAPTER LIII. + +CHARACTER OF THE NEW ZEALANDERS. + + +An unfortunate prejudice has gone forth into the world against the +natives of New Zealand, which I have always endeavoured to counteract +from a sense of justice, and, from a careful review of those +circumstances which have fallen immediately under my own observation; +this prejudice has long retarded our knowledge of their true character, +but error must gradually give way to truth; and as the circumstances +which first brought the stigma upon their name come to light, and are +investigated and properly explained, I feel confident the conduct of +these islanders will be found superior to that of any other nation in the +South Seas. If we take the whole catalogue of dreadful massacres they +have been charged with, and (setting aside partiality for our own +countrymen) allow them to be carefully examined, it will be found that we +have invariably been the aggressors; and when we have given serious cause +of offence, can we be so irrational as to express astonishment that a +savage should seek revenge? The last massacre was that of "The Boyd's" +crew; every impartial person who reads the account of that melancholy +transaction must acknowledge the unfortunate captain was most to blame. +But that event took place nineteen years back; since which time they know +us better, and respect us more; in proof of which, four years since, The +Mercury brig was taken possession of by a crowd of natives, after they +had endured a series of offences and every kind of ill-treatment; but the +difference in their fate, compared with that of The Boyd's ship's +company, was remarkable, and proved that the savage temper of the natives +was much softened down and humanised, as they merely plundered the +vessel, but made no attempt to murder or molest any of the crew, who, if +they had possessed sufficient courage, would not have sacrificed their +vessel; but, being terrified, they abandoned her, and she was finally +wrecked. During my residence, I never heard of one of the men having been +murdered; and I feel fully convinced no massacres will ever again be +committed in any of the ports in New Zealand where European vessels have +been accustomed to anchor. + +I once saw, with indignation, a chief absolutely knocked overboard from a +whaler's deck by the mate. Twenty years ago so gross an insult would have +cost the lives of every individual on board the vessel, but, at the time +this occurred, it was only made the subject of complaint, and finally +became a cause of just remonstrance with the commander of the whaler. The +natives themselves (and I have heard the opinions of various tribes) have +invariably told me that these things occurred from our want of knowledge +of their laws and customs, which compelled them to seek revenge. "It +was," they said, "no act of treachery on our part; we did not invite you +to our shores for the purpose of plunder and murder: but you came, and +ill-used us; you broke into our tabooed grounds. And did not Atua give +those bad white men into the hands of our fathers?" + +I am confident that a body of Europeans may now reside in perfect +security in any part of these islands. The late plundering of the +missionaries at Whangaroa was a peculiar circumstance, which might have +happened even in civilised Europe, had the seat of war approached so near +their place of residence. If their houses and chapel had been on the +plains of Waterloo during the June of 1815 they would not have +experienced a better fate. + +This recent tumult has brought a circumstance into notice highly +interesting to all who may hereafter wish to settle here. It has hitherto +been their custom, when an accident occurs, such as the sudden death of a +chief, to make a general plunder of everything belonging to the family of +the deceased, and all under their protection. A knowledge of this +horrible custom has deterred many from settling in New Zealand; and even +those who have resolved to run so great a risk have lived in a continued +state of alarm, lest the death of their protecting chief should leave +them at the mercy of a savage enemy. + +The deaths of Hongi and Shulitea placed the missionaries and all the +settlers on Kororarika Beach in considerable jeopardy: but it appeared as +if reason had begun to dawn on the minds of these benighted savages, for +this unjust and cruel custom was now for the first time discontinued. I +was on the beach at the time when an immense party, well armed, came for +the express purpose of satiating their revengeful feelings. I had taken +the precaution of removing what I possessed on board a whaler then lying +in the harbour. The chiefs first sat down to discuss the matter over +amongst themselves, and their deliberations ended in their being +satisfied with destroying the village of Matowe, the one adjoining ours, +and which had been the residence of Pomare's son, whose death was the +cause of all the late turbulent events. + +The great and leading defect in this country, and the principal cause of +their frequent wars and disturbances, which harass and depopulate the +tribes, and puts a stop to all improvement, is the want of some regular +system of government. There are only two classes of people--chiefs and +slaves; and, as consanguinity constitutes a high claim, the eldest son of +a large family, who can bring the greatest number of warriors of his own +name into the field, is considered the chief of that district or tribe; +and as he, by reason of his followers, can take possession of the +greatest number of prisoners or slaves, he becomes the ruling man. Every +other man of his tribe considers himself on an equality with him in +everything, except that he shows him obedience, and follows him to +battle. + +Each is independent in his own family, and holds uncontrolled power of +life and death over every individual it contains. They seem not to +exercise any coercion over the younger branches of a family, who are +allowed unbounded liberty till the girls have sweethearts and the boys +are strong enough to go to war. They are kind and hospitable to +strangers, and are excessively fond of their children. On a journey, it +is more usual to see the father carrying his infant than the mother; and +all the little offices of a nurse are performed by him with the tenderest +care and good humour. In many instances (wherein they differ from most +savage tribes) I have seen the wife treated as an equal and companion. In +fact, when not engaged in war, the New Zealander is quite a domestic, +cheerful, harmless character; but once rouse his anger, or turn him into +ridicule, and his disposition is instantly changed. A being, whose +passions have never been curbed from infancy, and whose only notion of +what he conceives to be his right is to retaliate for an offence with +blood, must naturally form a cruel and vindictive character. Such these +islanders seemed to us on our first visiting them. The sight of beings so +extraordinary (for thus we Europeans must have appeared to them) excited +in their savage minds the greatest wonder; and they thought we were sent +as a scourge and an enemy; and though Cook, one of their earliest +visitors, adopted every method his ingenuity could devise to conciliate +them, yet, as they never could thoroughly understand his intentions, they +were always on the alert to attack him. Hence arose the horror and +disgust expressed formerly at the mere mention of the name of "a New +Zealander." + +I have often tried, in vain, to account for there being such a decided +dissimilarity between the natives of New Holland and New Zealand. So +trifling is the difference in their situation on the globe, and so +_similar their climates_--both having remained so long unknown to the +great continents, and so devoid of intercourse with the rest of the +world--that one would be led to imagine a great resemblance must be the +result. But the natives of the former seem of the lowest grade--the last +link in the great chain of existence which unites man with the monkey. +Their limbs are long, thin, and flat, with large bony knees and elbows, a +projecting forehead, and pot-belly. The mind, too, seems adapted to this +mean configuration; they have neither energy, enterprise, nor industry; +and their curiosity can scarcely be excited. A few exceptions may be met +with; but these are their general characteristics. While the natives of +the latter island are "cast in beauty's perfect mould;" the children are +so fine and powerfully made, that each might serve as a model for a +statue of "the Infant Hercules;" nothing can exceed the graceful and +athletic forms of the men, or the rounded limbs of their young women. +These possess eyes beautiful and eloquent, and a profusion of long, +silky, curling hair; while the intellects of both sexes seem of a +superior order; all appear eager for improvement, full of energy, and +indefatigably industrious, and possessing amongst themselves several arts +which are totally unknown to their neighbours. + + + + + +CHAPTER LIV. + +THE SETTLEMENT AND TRADE OF HOKIANGA. + + +On April the 14th, our brig being stored with planks, flax, and potatoes, +and ready for sea, I went on board of her. We had fine weather till we +dropped down to the entrance of the river, where we intended taking in +our stock of water for the voyage, when the scene suddenly changed, and a +severe gale came on, right out to sea, which we could not avail ourselves +of; neither could we get the water off, as our rafts of casks got adrift +in the attempt to get them on board. To add to our disasters, one of our +cables parted, and we had to ride out the gale (of two days' continuance) +with one only, the sea rolling heavily right open before us, and we in +momentary expectation of the remaining cable's going; we had not a single +day's allowance of water on board, and at one period all hands (except +the carpenter and passengers) were out of the brig, on shore, filling the +casks. Fortunately for us, the cable proved a tough one; had it parted, +we should have been in a most perilous situation. + +April 20th.--For the last week we were stationary at the river's mouth, +waiting for a fair wind to carry us over the bar; and during that time +there was no appearance of any change; we also heard that vessels had +been detained here for six weeks before they could accomplish it. We +were visited daily by parties of natives, who seemed to rejoice at our +being delayed, as it gave them more of our company than they had +calculated upon. They were more delighted with our society than we were +with theirs; in a small vessel they are a serious nuisance, on account of +the swarms of vermin they bring with them, and which they communicate +liberally to all. Myself and all the passengers on board had our leisure +time fully occupied in dislodging these "little familiars" from their +strongholds in different parts of our apparel. + +During the time we were lying here, I saw and conversed with several +individuals who had attended the "Great Meeting," and their accounts gave +rise to various opinions respecting the policy of supplying the natives +with firearms. As I had always been an advocate for the measure, I was +gratified by hearing that it was thought to be in consequence of each +party's being possessed of a nearly equal quantity of muskets, that a +general and exterminating war was avoided. Some may suppose that similar +tranquility would have been preserved, had they been equally well +supplied with their native weapons of war; but that would not have been +the case. When they found that each party could furnish forth the same +number of European muskets, they paused, well knowing that it was +contrary to the wish of all the white settlers that they should proceed +to hostilities. Indeed, Europeans intrepidly mingled amongst them, urging +them to a reconciliation, and threatening that, if they failed in their +endeavours, the supplies of arms and ammunition should be discontinued. +This threat had its desired effect on the minds of the natives; no blood +was spilt, and each chief returned quietly to his own home. + +On the night we heard of the death of George and his wife, "Revenge and +war" was the universal cry. His party would not believe that it could be +an accident, nor would they hear of any apology being received. At this +time they imagined the tribes of Hokianga were possessed of but very few +firearms; and, as the skirmish took place in that district, it was +determined that an exterminating war should be carried into the heart of +it. However, before all the preparations could be made to carry their +intentions into effect, they received certain information that the people +of Hokianga were even better supplied with muskets than those of the Bay +of Islands. This intelligence occasioned an assemblage of the different +tribes to be proposed, and when it took place the friends of George saw +their opponents so well prepared for the "tug of war" that they deemed it +judicious to come forward and to shake hands and to acknowledge that the +death of Shulitea proceeded either from accident or mistake. A curious +circumstance took place in the midst of their debate. An old chief, who +wished for a fight, and did not approve of the introduction of firearms, +but was an advocate for the old method of New Zealand warfare, proposed +that each party should send away _all_ their muskets and ammunition, and +engage manfully with their own native weapons, and then it could be +easily proved which were the "best men;" but this mode of settling the +dispute, not being agreeable to the majority, was instantly negatived, +and treated with disdain. + +The colony of Scotch carpenters, who had formed a settlement at the head +of the river, and of whom I made "honourable mention" on my first +journey, finding themselves so close to what they feared might become +the seat of war, and having no means whatever of defending themselves, +made an arrangement with Mooetara, the chief of Parkunugh (which is +situated at the entrance of the same river), and placed themselves under +his protection. They accordingly moved down here, which gave great +satisfaction to that chief. Neither could their former protector, +Patuone, feel offended at their removal, from the peculiar nature of the +circumstances they were placed in. These hardy North Britons were +delighted to find a reasonable excuse for moving, their former +establishment being situated too far from the sea for them to reap any +advantage from ships coming into port. Nothing can be more gratifying +than to behold the great anxiety of the natives to induce Englishmen to +settle amongst them; it ensures their safety; and no one act of treachery +is on record of their having practised towards those whom they had +invited to reside with them. + +Mooetara is a man of great property and high rank, and is considered a +very proud chief by the natives; yet he is to be seen every day working +as hard as any slave in assisting in the erection of houses for the +accommodation of his new settlers. He has actually removed from his old +village of Parkunugh (a strong and beautiful place), and is erecting huts +for his tribe near the spot chosen by his new friends; so that, in a very +short time, a barren point of land, hitherto without a vestige of a human +habitation, will become a thriving and populous village, for it is +incredible how quickly the orders of these chiefs are carried into +effect. I was frequently a witness to the short space of time they took +to erect their houses; and, though small, they are tight, weather-proof, +and warm: their storehouses are put together in the most substantial and +workmanlike manner. + +It is very difficult to make the New Zealanders explain the nature of +their religious belief. One superstition seems general with all the +tribes respecting the formation of the world, or, rather, of their own +island, for that is the place of the first importance in their +estimation. They say a man, or a god, or some great spirit, was fishing +in his war-canoe, and pulled up a large fish, which instantly turned into +an island; and a lizard came upon that, and brought up a man out of the +water by his long hair; and he was the father of all the New Zealanders. +Almost all their grotesque carvings are illustrations of this idea in +some way or other. The favourite theme on which (I observed) the +missionaries discoursed to them were "the torments of hell." This has +become a subject of ridicule to most of the natives; they do not deny +that there may be such a place, but they add, it is not for them, for if +Atua had intended it so he would have sent them word about it long before +he sent the white men into their country; and they conclude by stating +that they know perfectly well the situation of the island where they are +to go to after this life. + + + + + +CHAPTER LV. + +MASSACRE OF A SCHOONER'S CREW. + + +While remaining here wind-bound, in imaginary security, and amusing +ourselves with noticing the curious customs and peculiarities of these +islanders, a dreadful tragedy was taking place only a few miles' distance +from us, and to which I before alluded, when I mentioned crossing the bar +on our first arrival from Port Jackson. The Enterprise schooner, a very +fine vessel, which was built at the settlement on this river, had been +sent to Sydney, and while we were lying there we were in hourly +expectation of her return. She did return. The unfavourable weather which +detained us so long proved fatal to her, and she was wrecked a few miles +to the northward of the river's mouth, and every soul on board perished. + +The moment this catastrophe was known every European hastened to the +spot, and, with feelings of horror, perceived but too plainly, from the +appearance of the wreck and the boat, and by finding also the clothes of +the crew, that they had reached the shore in safety, and had afterwards +all been murdered; but how, or by whom, it was impossible to discover. +The most probable conclusion was that the tribes situated around the +European dockyard at Hokianga, having meditated for some time past a +great war-like expedition, waited the return of this schooner from Sydney +to possess themselves of an additional supply of arms and ammunition, +which might enable them to take the field with a certainty of conquest. +They had regularly purchased the cargo of this vessel by their labour +and their merchandise, and the schooner was merely employed to convey it +thither from Sydney, for the use of the natives; unhappily for the poor +creatures on board, in running for the mouth of the river, she fell to +leeward, and got stranded on the beach, in the very territory of that +tribe against whom these preparations were made--the tribe intended to be +invaded. Though no formal declaration of war had taken place, the tribes +well knew the preparations that were making against them, and the nature +of the cargo contained in The Enterprise; falling into the hands of such +fierce and vindictive savages, the fate of the crew may be imagined--all +our poor fellows were sacrificed to gratify their feelings of revenge. + +Mooetara (the friendly chief of Hokianga) no sooner heard of the fate of +the vessel and her crew than he hastened with his party to the spot; it +was owing to the investigation which then took place that the conclusion +was arrived at that all had been murdered. What remained for Mooetara to +do (according to their savage notion of what was right) was to take ample +revenge on all the hostile tribes that might fall in his way, whether our +poor countrymen met their deaths through accident or treachery. Mooetara +instantly commenced the work of destruction; and, having made his +vengeance complete, he returned laden with spoil. The promptness with +which he acted on this melancholy occasion greatly increased the feelings +of security possessed by those Englishmen settled on the banks of the +river, as it proved to them that he was both able and willing to protect +them, and though the dead could not be restored, yet he had inflicted an +awful punishment on their murderers. + + + + + +CHAPTER LVI. + +FAREWELL TO NEW ZEALAND. + + +On the 21st a fair wind and smooth sea favoured our departure. Early in +the morning the natives who were on board assured us everything would +facilitate our passing over the bar with safety, and they prepared to +leave the ship. When the moment of separation came, it caused a great +deal of emotion on both sides. I must confess I felt much affected when I +came to rub noses, shake hands, and say "Farewell" to these kind-hearted +people. I saw them go over the ship's side, and reflected that I should +never behold them more. There is always something repugnant to our +feelings in the idea of separating from any being for ever; and as, in +this instance, I felt assured that this was our last time of meeting, it +cast a gloom over the pleasure the fair wind and smooth sea would +otherwise have afforded me. As we fell down towards the river's mouth, +and, indeed, as long as their canoes were to be seen, they kept waving +their hands towards us. + +Thus terminated my visit to the islands of New Zealand. I had arrived +with feelings of fear and disgust, and was merely induced to take up a +temporary residence amongst the natives, in hopes of finding something +new for my pencil in their peculiar and picturesque style of life. I left +them with opinions, in many respects, very favourable towards them. It +is true, they are cunning and over-reaching in trade, and filthy in their +persons. In regard to the former, we Europeans, I fear, set them a bad +example; of the latter, they will gradually amend. Our short visit to +Kororarika greatly improved them in that particular. All took great pains +to come as clean as possible when they attended our "evening +tea-parties." In my opinion, their sprightly, free, and independent +deportment, together with their kindness and attention to strangers, +compensates for many defects. + +On looking round upon their country, an Englishman cannot fail to feel +gratified when he beholds the good already resulting to these poor +savages from their intercourse with his countrymen; and they themselves +are fully sensible of, and truly grateful for, every mark of kindness +manifested towards them. They have stores full of the finest Indian corn, +which they consider a great luxury, a food which requires little trouble +in preparing, keeps well, and is very nutritious. It is but a few years +since this useful grain was introduced amongst them; and I sincerely hope +this introduction may be followed up, not only by our sending out to them +seeds of vegetables and fruits, but by our forwarding to them every +variety of quadruped which can be used for food. Abundance of the finest +water-melons are daily brought alongside vessels entering their ports; +these, in point of flavour, are superior to any I ever met with. I have +no doubt every variety of European produce essential to the support of +life would thrive equally well; and as food became abundant, and luxuries +were introduced, their disgusting feasts on human flesh would soon be +discontinued altogether. + +We were soon at sea, and speedily felt considerable apprehensions as to +the safe termination of our voyage. Our vessel (the brig Governor +Macquarie) we well knew was a leaky one, though her leaks did not +distress us on the outward voyage, she being then only in ballast trim; +but now that she was loaded to the water's edge, and the winter coming +on, we became greatly alarmed for her. Another disagreeable circumstance +was having no bread or flour on board. To obviate the first evil, and to +save the sailors a great deal of hard labour, our Captain offered to give +a passage to Sydney to several natives, who accepted his offer, they +being always anxious to see the colony; we likewise had on board the +great Chief from the Thames, who had caused us so much trouble at +Kororarika. These men, being fine, strong, active young fellows, were +indefatigable in their exertions at the pumps; and though we had to +contend with much heavy weather, and contrary winds, they kept our vessel +pretty dry. The want of bread was not so easily remedied; though our +Captain treated it lightly, saying he was sure of getting a supply by +making a requisition to the missionaries. He accordingly waited upon +them, and acquainted them with our distressed condition; they had plenty +(for only a few weeks previously they had received a large supply), and +as we knew their agent at Sydney, Mr. Campbell, we had no doubt of +procuring a sufficiency from them to carry us home; but in this we were +disappointed. Captain Kent did not ask them for a supply as a gift, but +solicited merely the _loan_ of a cask or two till we arrived at Sydney, +when he guaranteed that the owners of the brig should return the same +quantity into the missionary storehouse there. The little monosyllable +_No_ was again put in requisition, with this qualification--"that they +did not like the Botany Bay skippers." Through their "dislike," the +passengers and seamen of the brig might have gone unprovided to sea, had +not a "worldly-minded" whaler (fortunately for us) at that critical +moment come into port, who, the instant he heard of the ill-success of +our entreaty, vented his indignation in pretty coarse language, and said, +"if it detained his vessel a week, he would supply us;" and he kept his +word; he gave us a bountiful supply, which rendered us comfortable during +the whole way home. + +It was most interesting to observe our savages when we got well out to +sea. They soon appeared to become accustomed to their novel situation, +and seemed to feel quite at home and at their ease "on board ship." Their +exertions at the pumps were indefatigable. I felt convinced they thought +that during all voyages the same labour was gone through to keep the +vessel afloat; and as it only required strength and exertion, they +cheerfully took that department entirely to themselves, especially as +they soon perceived how useless they were when they attempted to perform +any other duty on board of the brig, as their knowledge of voyaging +extended no further than the distance they go in their own canoes, which, +though very beautiful, are sad leaky things at sea; and as, during the +time they are out, the greater part of the crew are baling the water out +of them, they thought the leaky state of our vessel was no uncommon +occurrence. But however cheerfully they worked during the day, nothing +could induce them to "turn out" at night; they always stowed themselves +away, but in what part of the vessel I never could conjecture. They have +a dread of some unknown evil spirit, which they imagine has power over +them at night; and this supposition makes them terrible cowards in the +dark. + +The second day after we were at sea, I saw a group of savages lying round +the binnacle, all intently occupied in observing the phenomenon of the +magnetic attraction; they seemed at once to comprehend the purpose to +which it was applied, and I listened with eager curiosity to their +remarks upon it. + +"This," said they, "is the white man's God, who directs them safely to +different countries, and then can guide them home again." Out of +compliment to us, and respect for its wonderful powers, they seemed much +inclined to worship this silent little monitor. + +During our voyage to Port Jackson we experienced a succession of +southerly gales, which Captain Kent informed me were very prevalent at +this season of the year. Notwithstanding all our exertions to prevent it, +we were carried considerably to leeward of the port. We made Lord Howe's +Islands, whose high and bold features rise, as it were, out of the ocean; +as we passed close to them, we perceived they were well wooded and +watered; and one of the men, who had been on shore there, informed me that +there was a tolerably good harbour for small craft. A few miles to the +southward of these islands is Ball's Pyramid, a most singular and +sublime-looking rock, rising perpendicularly out of the sea to a height +of a thousand feet; the base of it is enveloped in perpetual surf, +dashing and climbing up its craggy sides. Its appearance, as we saw it, +relieved by the setting sun, and the coming on of a stormy night, was +awful in the extreme! + +Nothing could exceed the delight manifested by our New Zealanders as we +sailed up Port Jackson harbour; but, above all, the windmills most +astonished them. After dancing and screaming with joy at beholding them, +they came running and asking me "if they were not gods." I found they +were inclined to attach that sacred appellation to most things they could +not understand; they did so when they first became possessed of their +muskets, and actually worshipped them, until they discovered how soon +they got out of repair, and then, notwithstanding all the prayers they +could bestow upon them, they would not mend again of their own accord. + +Our Chief from the Thames, who had a great idea of his own dignity, +commenced adorning his person, as he felt convinced the Governor would +instantly grant him an audience when he came on shore. All our lamps were +emptied to add a more beautiful gloss to his hair and complexion; his +whole stock of feathers and bones were arranged to the greatest +advantage. He at length became quite enraged when he found that he was +allowed to sit two days on our deck, amongst all manner of dirty porters +and sailors, without either being visited or sent for; and he was loud in +his reproaches to us for having deceived him. We certainly were to blame +in having induced him to believe we had any influence with the Governor, +for however politic we (who had lived in New Zealand) might think it, to +pay some attentions to these simple savages, his Excellency, +unfortunately, thought otherwise; and though the Chief, attended by his +followers, used to sit in the verandah at Government House from morning +till night, the Governor never once deigned to speak to them, and they +were, in consequence, constantly coming to me with complaints. At length +they told me that unless they obtained an audience from our Chief they +should consider it so great an insult that they would revenge it upon all +the Europeans they could get into their power; and I, well knowing that +several families were settled in that part of the country wherein this +man was Chief, thought it my duty to let the Governor know, that, however +he might dislike their manners and appearance, it might lead to some +serious calamity, if he continued to refuse to give them an audience. + +I accordingly waited upon the Brigade Major, and explained to him how +unwise it was to treat these men with such undisguised contempt. The +result was, the Governor saw the affair in the same point of view as +myself, and condescended to meet them and converse with them for about +five minutes; and with that they were satisfied. Other heads of +departments (civil and military) behaved differently, and evidently felt +a pleasure in having them with them. The Commander of the troops suffered +them to sit at the same table with himself and officers, and had the +war-dance performed in the mess-room, which I thought would have brought +the house down upon our heads. He likewise permitted them to fall into +the ranks with the soldiers, which pleased them beyond everything, +inasmuch as they considered it a higher honour in being permitted to +stand by our warriors on the martial parade than to take food with our +Chiefs at their own table! + +The Attorney-General of the colony took a particular interest in these +savages, and gave a large party, to which they were invited. Several of +the visitors on this occasion came out of curiosity to see how these +cannibals would conduct themselves, expecting, no doubt, to witness a +display of disgusting gluttony; but in that they were disappointed, for +never did any set of men behave with greater decorum than they did. + +On being apprised of this invitation, they were all most anxious to +obtain European dresses, and when we refused to lend them ours, they +requested of our servants the loan of a suit. This being denied them +also, with the little money they had they attempted to bargain for whole +suits of _convict_ dresses, in order to make their _debut_ in style at +the table of the Attorney-General! When I discovered this to be the case, +I explained to them the impropriety of their conduct, and roused their +pride by pointing out to them the absurdity of men of their high rank in +their own country wishing to appear in the cast-off dress of degraded +slaves, and how much more suitable it was to the dignity of their +character to appear in their own national costume. Accordingly, on the +appointed day, they met the company superbly attired in mats and +feathers; they made a splendid show at the dinner-table, and afforded +great amusement to the evening visitors. At an early hour they got very +sleepy, but were too polite to hint how much they felt oppressed by +drowsiness. I saw their eyes grow heavy, and perceived that it was +difficult for them to sit upright on their chairs. I mentioned these +symptoms to their kind host, who immediately consented to their retiring. +They accordingly withdrew into a corner of one of the adjoining rooms, +where, lying down huddled together, and covering themselves with their +mats, they were soon asleep, and gave no interruption to anyone during +the remainder of the evening. + +The greatest treat it was in our power to bestow on them was to take them +to a review of the troops then stationed at Sydney. The splendour of +their regimentals, the regularity of their movements, and the precision +of their firing, made them nearly mad with delight; they ran about the +plain literally wild with joy, occasionally stopping to gaze with wonder +on men performing what they deemed such prodigies. In their ecstasies +they occasionally vociferated their own furious war-whoop. Their +extravagant expressions of delight, and their many extraordinary +gestures, caused great amusement both to the military and to the +spectators assembled on the ground; and when the review was over my +savage friends were quite exhausted with fatigue and excitement. + +After two months' residence at Sydney we had an opportunity of procuring +a passage for them to their own country; and they departed, expressing +the greatest gratitude for our attentions towards them. They were loaded +with presents of all descriptions; for, finding they generally got what +they begged for, while here, they importuned everyone they met, and they +used daily to return home burthened with the most miscellaneous and +extraordinary jumble of commodities it was possible to conceive; for, as +everything they then beheld was new to them, and might be (they thought) +of some service to them in their own country, each trifle was of great +value in their estimation, and was carefully stowed away. They always +expressed their concern that so few muskets were given to them, and that +they were presented with ammunition in such small quantities. War-like +stores were their grand desideratum; and though they would accept of any +thing you chose to give them, yet they always had hopes they should +finally receive their favourite presents of a stocking of powder, a piece +of lead, or a musket. + +THE END. + + + + + +APPENDIX I. + +MASSACRE OF CAPT. FURNEAUX'S BOAT'S CREW. + +CANNIBALISM OF THE MAORIS. + + +[_The following is the account given by Captain Furneaux of the massacre +of his boat's crew, referred to in Earle's narrative on page 24._] + + * * * * * + +The Resolution, under command of Captain Cook, and the Adventure, +commanded by Captain Furneaux, sailed from Plymouth on the 13th April, +1772, to continue the exploration of New Zealand begun during Captain +Cook's first voyage. The vessels became finally separated in a gale off +Cape Palliser in October, 1773, and the two navigators did not meet again +until after Cook's return to England in July, 1775. + +Captain Furneaux reported that while his ship was refitting in Queen +Charlotte Sound the astronomer's tent was robbed by a party of natives. +One who was seen escaping was fired upon and wounded, when he and his +confederates made for the woods, leaving their canoe with most of the +stolen goods on the shore. "This petty larceny," Captain Furneaux +remarks, "probably laid the foundation of that dreadful catastrophe which +soon after happened," and which he thus describes: + +"On Friday, the 17th, we sent out our large cutter, manned with seven +seamen, under the command of Mr. John Rowe, the first mate, accompanied +by Mr. Woodhouse, midshipman, and James Tobias Swilley, the carpenter's +servant. They were to proceed up the Sound to Grass Cove to gather greens +and celery for the ship's company, with orders to return that evening; +for the tents had been struck at two in the afternoon, and the ship made +ready for sailing the next day. Night coming on, and no cutter appearing, +the captain and others began to express great uneasiness. They sat up all +night in expectation of their arrival, but to no purpose. At daybreak, +therefore, the captain ordered the launch to be hoisted out. She was +double manned, and under the command of our second lieutenant, Mr. +Burney, accompanied by Mr. Freeman, master, the corporal of marines, with +five private men, all well armed, and having plenty of ammunition and +three days' provision. They were ordered first to look into East Bay, +then to proceed to Grass Cove, and if nothing was to be seen or heard of +the cutter there, they were to go farther up the cove, and return by the +west shore. Mr. Rowe having left the ship an hour before the time +proposed for his departure, we thought his curiosity might have carried +him into East Bay, none of our people having ever been there, or that +some accident might have happened to the boat, for not the least +suspicion was entertained of the natives. Mr. Burney returned about +eleven o'clock the same night, and gave us a pointed description of a +most horrible scene, described in the following relation:-- + +"'On Saturday, the 18th, we left the ship about nine o'clock in the +morning. We soon got round Long Island and Long Point. We continued +sailing and rowing for East Bay, keeping close in shore, and examining +with our glasses every cove on the larboard side, till near two o'clock +in the afternoon, at which time we stopped at a beach on our left going +up East Bay, to dress our dinner. + +"'About five o'clock in the afternoon, and within an hour after we had +left this place, we opened a small bay adjoining to Grass Cove, and here +we saw a large double canoe just hauled upon the beach, with two men and +a dog. The two men, on seeing us approach, instantly fled, which made us +suspect it was here we should have some tidings of the cutter. On landing +and examining the canoe, the first thing we saw therein was one of our +cutter's rowlock ports and some shoes, one of which among the latter was +known to belong to Mr. Woodhouse. A piece of flesh was found by one of +our people, which at first was thought to be some of the salt meat +belonging to the cutter's men, but, upon examination, we supposed to be +dog's flesh. A most horrid and undeniable proof soon cleared up our +doubts, and convinced us we were among no other than cannibals; for, +advancing further on the beach, we saw about twenty baskets tied up, and +a dog eating a piece of broiled flesh, which, upon examination, we +suspected to be human. We cut open the baskets, some of which were full +of roasted flesh, and others of fern root, which serves them for bread. +Searching others, we found more shoes and a hand, which was immediately +known to have belonged to Thos. Hill, one of our forecastle men, it +having been tattooed with the initials of his name. We now proceeded a +little way in the woods, but saw nothing else. Our next design was to +launch the canoe, intending to destroy her; but seeing a great smoke +ascending over the nearest hill, we made all possible haste to be with +them before sunset. + +"'At half after six we opened Grass Cove, where we saw one single and +three double canoes, and a great many natives assembled on the beach, who +retreated to a small hill, within a ship's length of the water side, +where they stood talking to us. On the top of the high land, beyond the +woods, was a large fire, from whence, all the way down the hill, the +place was thronged like a fair. When we entered the cove, a musketoon was +fired at one of the canoes, as we imagined they might be full of men +lying down, for they were all afloat, but no one was seen in them. Being +doubtful whether their retreat proceeded from fear or a desire to decoy +us into an ambuscade, we were determined not to be surprised, and +therefore, running close in shore, we dropped the grappling near enough +to reach them with our guns, but at too great a distance to be under any +apprehensions from their treachery. The savages on the little hill kept +their ground, hallooing, and making signs for us to land. At these we now +took aim, resolving to kill as many of them as our bullets would reach, +yet it was some time before we could dislodge them. The first volley did +not seem to affect them much, but on the second they began to scramble +away as fast as they could, some howling and others limping. We continued +to fire as long as we could see the least glimpse of any of them through +the bushes. Among these were two very robust men, who maintained their +ground without moving an inch till they found themselves forsaken by all +their companions, and then, disdaining to run, they marched off with +great composure and deliberation. One of them, however, got a fall, and +either lay there or crawled away on his hands and feet; but the other +escaped without any apparent hurt. Mr. Burney now improved their panic, +and, supported by the marines, leaped on shore and pursued the fugitives. +We had not advanced far from the water-side, on the beach, before we met +with two bunches of celery, which had been gathered by the cutter's crew. +A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to which the natives had +tied their canoes, whereby we were convinced this was the spot where the +attack had been made. We now searched all along at the back of the beach, +to see if the cutter was there, but instead of her, the most horrible +scene was presented to our view; for there lay the hearts, heads, and +lungs of several of our people, with hands and limbs in a mangled +condition, some broiled and some raw; but no other parts of their bodies, +which made us suspect that the cannibals had feasted upon and devoured +the rest. At a little distance we saw the dogs gnawing their entrails. We +observed a large body of the natives collected together on a hill about +two miles off, but as night drew on apace, we could not advance to such a +distance; neither did we think it safe to attack them, or even to quit +the shore to take an account of the number killed, our troop being a very +small one, and the savages were both numerous, fierce, and much +irritated. While we remained almost stupefied on the spot, Mr. Fannen +said that he heard the cannibals assembling in the woods, on which we +returned to our boat, and having hauled alongside the canoes, we +demolished three of them. During this transaction the fire on the top of +the hill disappeared, and we could hear the savages in the woods at high +words, quarrelling, perhaps, on account of their different opinions, +whether they should attack us and try to save their canoes. They were +armed with long lances, and weapons not unlike a sergeant's halbert in +shape, made of hard wood, and mounted with bone instead of iron. We +suspected that the dead bodies of our people had been divided among those +different parties of cannibals who had been concerned in the massacre, +and it was not improbable that the group we saw at a distance by the fire +were feasting upon some of them, as those on shore had been where the +remains were found, before they had been disturbed by our unexpected +visit. Be that as it may, we could discover no traces of more than four +of our friends' bodies, nor could we find the place where the cutter was +concealed. It now grew dark, on which account we collected carefully the +remains of our mangled friends, and, putting off, made the best of our +way from this polluted place. When we opened the upper part of the Sound, +we saw a very large fire about three or four miles higher up, which +formed a complete oval, reaching from the top of a hill down almost to +the water-side, the middle space being enclosed all round by the fire, +like a hedge. Mr. Burney and Mr. Fannen having consulted together, they +were both of opinion that we could, by an attempt, reap no other +advantage than the poor satisfaction of killing some more of the savages. +Upon leaving Grass Cove we had fired a volley towards where we heard the +Indians talking, but by going in and out of the boat our pieces had got +wet, and four of them missed fire. What rendered our situation more +critical, it began to rain, and our ammunition was more than half +expended. We, for these reasons, without spending time where nothing +could be hoped for but revenge, proceeded for the ship, and arrived safe +aboard before midnight.'" + +It is a little remarkable that Captain Furneaux had been several times up +Grass Cove with Captain Cook, where they saw no inhabitants, and no other +signs of any but a few deserted villages, which appeared as if they had +not been occupied for many years, and yet, in Mr. Burney's opinion, when +he entered the same cove, there could not be less than fifteen hundred or +two thousand people. + +On Thursday, the 23rd of December, the Adventure departed from, and made +sail out of, the Sound. She stood to the eastward, to clear the straits, +which was happily effected the same evening; but the ship was baffled for +two or three days with light winds before she could clear the coast. In +this interval of time the chests and effects of the ten men who had been +murdered were sold before the mast, according to an old sea custom. + +When Captain Cook was in the Sound on his third voyage, he learned that +the massacre arose over an unpremeditated quarrel. Kahura, who had been +active in the tragedy, told Cook that a Maori having brought a stone +hatchet to barter, the man to whom it was offered took it, and would +neither return it nor give anything for it, and on which the owner +snatched some bread from the party of Europeans, who were at dinner on +the beach, as an equivalent, and then the quarrel began. Kahura himself +had a narrow escape of being shot, while another was shot beside him; and +the Europeans, outnumbered, were surrounded and killed. It was also +stated by the natives that not one of the shots fired by the party of +Captain Furneaux led by Mr. Burney to search for the missing people had +taken effect so as to kill or even to hurt a single person. + + + + + +APPENDIX II. + +THE DEATH OF WHAREUMU (KING GEORGE). + + +The death of this Bay of Islands chief, who acted as protector to Mr. +Earle during his residence at Kororareka, is thus described by Messrs. +Hobbs and Stack, Wesleyan missionaries at Hokianga, in a letter dated +from Mangungu, Hokianga, on the 22nd March, 1828:-- + +"On the same day that Hongi died at Whangaroa a son of the late Pomare's, +named Tiki, was killed at Waima by a chief of the tribe called +Mahurihuri. Waima is in Hokianga, and only a few miles distance from us. +The cause of the quarrel was this: Tiki had had some of his pigs stolen +by the natives of Waima, and he was seeking utu by robbing their sweet +potato plantations, for which he was shot. + +"As soon as the report of the young man's death reached the Bay of +Islands, 400 natives collected together, forming two divisions, under two +separate chiefs, Whareumu, or, as he is called by the Europeans, King +George, and Toi, and came to Hokianga. Toi and his party arrived first at +Waima, where he found Patuone and all the natives and other chiefs of our +district. After robbing the natives of Waima of their potatoes, etc., +peace was made, and no further evil consequences seemed likely to arise. +The next day, the 14th, Whareumu and his party arrived. He was highly +displeased with Toi for having made peace on such easy terms. He +prevailed upon him, therefore, to break his league. Whareumu was also +very insolent to Muriwai, intimated that he was a coward, and poured +contempt upon the idea of the Hokianga natives standing in their own +defence. On the morning of the 15th a quarrel ensued between the 400 Bay +of Islanders and the natives of Waima, our natives also having now become +their allies. This fray did not at the outset seem likely to be attended +with fatal results, but, as Solomon justly observes, the beginning of +strife is like the letting out of water; so it was in this instance. +Shots were fired on both sides till several were killed and wounded. At +length Muriwai, who was a pacificator, was wounded and fell. Supposing he +was killed, our natives (for the natives of Waima fled as soon as matters +assumed a serious aspect) no longer regarded matters lightly, but turned +round in great rage, for they also were in the act of retreating, and +singled out Whareumu as a satisfaction for Muriwai. Whareumu received two +balls before he was killed. The one which killed him went through his +throat. As soon as he fell all his followers fled, leaving about nine of +their companions dead on the field, amongst whom was Oro, the chief who +commenced our Whangaroa robbing. This ended the contest. Patuone and Nene +immediately took up the body of the fallen chief and made great +lamentation over him, and have since placed his body between the bodies +of their own relations as a mark of respect." + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative of a Nine Months' +Residence in New Zealand in 1827, by Augustus Earle + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEW ZEALAND IN 1827 *** + +***** This file should be named 11933.txt or 11933.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/1/9/3/11933/ + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram and PG Distributed Proofreaders + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b7f315b --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #11933 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/11933) diff --git a/old/11933-8.txt b/old/11933-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..606bf77 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11933-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6428 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative of a Nine Months' Residence in +New Zealand in 1827, by Augustus Earle + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Narrative of a Nine Months' Residence in New Zealand in 1827 + +Author: Augustus Earle + +Release Date: April 7, 2004 [EBook #11933] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEW ZEALAND IN 1827 *** + + + + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram and PG Distributed Proofreaders + + + + +[Illustration: A New Zealand War Speech. (From a sketch by A. Earle.)] + + + + +A NARRATIVE + +OF A + +NINE MONTHS' RESIDENCE + +IN + +NEW ZEALAND + +IN 1827 + +BY + +AUGUSTUS EARLE + +DRAUGHTSMAN TO HIS MAJESTY'S SURVEYING SHIP + +"THE BEAGLE." + +Whitecombe & Tombs Limited + +Christchurch, Wellington, and Dunedin, N.Z.; + +Melbourne and London + +1909 + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +The author of this account of New Zealand in the year 1827 was an artist +by profession. "A love of roving and adventure," he states, tempted him, +at an early age, to sea. In 1815 he procured a passage on board a +storeship bound for Sicily and Malta, where he had a brother stationed +who was a captain in the navy. He visited many parts of the +Mediterranean, accompanying Lord Exmouth's fleet in his brother's gunboat +on his Lordship's first expedition against the Barbary States. He +afterwards visited the ruins of Carthage and the remains of the ancient +city of Ptolomea, or Lepida, situated in ancient Libya. Returning to +Malta, he passed through Sicily, and ascended Mount Etna. In 1818 he left +England for the United States, and spent nearly two years in rambling +through that country. Thence he proceeded to Brazil and Chile, returning +to Rio de Janeiro, where he practised his art until the commencement of +1824. Having received letters of introduction to Lord Amherst, who had +left England to undertake the government of India, Mr. Earle left Rio for +the Cape of Good Hope, intending to take his passage thence to Calcutta. +On the voyage to the Cape the vessel by which he was a passenger touched +at Tristan d'Acunha, and was driven off that island in a gale while Mr. +Earle was ashore, leaving him stranded in that desolate land, where he +remained for six months, when he was rescued by a passing ship, the +"Admiral Cockburn," bound for Van Diemen's Land, whence he visited New +South Wales and New Zealand, returning again to Sydney. In pursuance of +his original resolution to visit India, he left Sydney in "The Rainbow," +touching at the Caroline Islands, Manilla, and Singapore. After spending +some time in Madras, where he executed many original drawings, which were +afterwards copied and exhibited in a panorama, he set out for England by +a French vessel, which was compelled by stress of weather to put into +Mauritius, where she was condemned. Mr. Earle ultimately reached England +in a vessel named the "Resource," but, being still animated by the desire +for travel, he accepted the situation of draughtsman on His Majesty's +ship "Beagle," commanded by Captain Fitzroy, which in the year 1831 left +on a voyage of discovery that has been made famous by the observations of +Charles Darwin, who accompanied the expedition in the capacity of +naturalist. + +The notes which furnished the materials for this book were made by Mr. +Earle during his first visit to New Zealand, in 1827. They are valuable +as setting forth the impressions formed by an educated man, who came into +the primitive community then existing at Hokianga and the Bay of Islands, +without being personally connected either with the trading community, +the missionaries, or the whalers. It should not be inferred from the +reflections Mr. Earle casts upon the missionaries that he was himself an +irreligious man, because the journal of his residence on Tristan d'Acunha +shows that, while living there, he read the whole service of the Church +of England to that little community every Sunday, and his diary in many +places exhibits a reverence for Divine things. It may, however, be said +in extenuation of the lack of hospitality on the part of the missionaries +of which he complains, that many of the early residents and European +visitors to New Zealand were of an undesirable class, and that they +exercised a demoralising influence upon the Maoris. It was not easy for +the missionaries to consort, upon terms of intimacy, with their +fellow-countrymen whose relations with the Natives were such as they must +strongly condemn. Earle's narrative is interesting because it conveys a +realistic description of the Maoris before their national customs and +habits had undergone any material change through association with white +settlers. In dealing with Maori names, Mr. Earle, having at that period +no standard of orthography to guide him, followed the example of Captain +Cook in spelling words phonetically. Except in the case of certain +well-known places the original spelling has been retained in the present +edition of his book. + + + + +CONTENTS. + +CHAPTER I. + +VOYAGE FROM SYDNEY +WRECKS AT HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER II. + +MAORI WELCOME +NATIVE CHARACTERISTICS +EUROPEANS AT HOKIANGA +CANNIBALISM + + +CHAPTER III. + +A MAORI VILLAGE +THE TAPU ON CROPS +MAORI ART + + +CHAPTER IV. + +HOKIANGA RIVER +MR. HOBBS' MISSION +THE TIMBER INDUSTRY + + +CHAPTER V. + +AN OVERLAND JOURNEY + + +CHAPTER VI. + +THE CHIEF PATUONE + + +CHAPTER VII. + +A PICTURESQUE SCENE + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +IN THE DENSE FOREST + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE KERIKERI MISSION +INHOSPITABLE RECEPTION + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE BAY OF ISLANDS + + +CHAPTER XI. + +MASSACRE OF THE BOYD + + +CHAPTER XII. + +KORORAREKA +A MIXED COMMUNITY +SHULITEA (KING GEORGE) + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +MAORI CONSERVATISM + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +A MISSION SETTLEMENT +THE MECHANIC MISSIONARY + + +CHAPTER XV. + +VISIT FROM HONGI +HONGI'S COAT OF MAIL + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +INTERVIEW WITH HONGI + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +A MAORI WELCOME + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +INLAND EXCURSIONS + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +MAORI WOMEN'S CAMP + + +CHAPTER XX. + +LOADING SPARS, HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +DEATH OF A CHIEF +TRADING WITH MAORIS + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +BRUTAL MURDER OF A WIFE + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +ANOTHER JOURNEY +INTERIOR OF THE COUNTRY + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +A WAR PARTY + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +HOSTILE DISPLAY +THE LAW OF MURU + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +A SEDUCTION AND ITS CONSEQUENCES + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +LAW OF RETALIATION + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +A WAR EXPEDITION +CANNIBALISM + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +MAORI SLAVERY + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +PIRACY BY CONVICTS + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +N.Z. CLIMATE +THE STARVATION CURE + + +CHAPTER XXXII. + +THE ART OF TATTOOING + + +CHAPTER XXXIII. + +TRIBAL GOVERNMENT +MAORI BELIEFS +THE CUSTOM OF TAPU +SUNDAY OBSERVANCE +MASSACRE OF FRENCH NAVIGATOR MARION AND PARTY + + +CHAPTER XXXIV. + +THE MAORIS' VIEW OF CHRISTIANITY + + +CHAPTER XXXV. + +HONGI'S THREATS +PREPARING FOR WAR + + +CHAPTER XXXVI. + +ARRIVAL OF A WARSHIP + + +CHAPTER XXXVII. + +WHALERS AND MISSIONARIES + + +CHAPTER XXXVIII. + +THREATENED WAR + + +CHAPTER XXXIX. + +CONSTRUCTION OF A PA + + +CHAPTER XL. + +A SHAM FIGHT + + +CHAPTER XLI. + +AN EXCITING INCIDENT +VISIT OF A GREAT TOHUNGA + + +CHAPTER XLII. + +VICTORIOUS WARRIORS +TREATMENT OF PRISONERS +BAKED HEADS + + +CHAPTER XLIII. + +VISITS OF WHALERS + + +CHAPTER XLIV. + +SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS + + +CHAPTER XLV. + +DEATH OF HONGI + + +CHAPTER XLVI. + +A TRIBAL CONFLICT +SHULITEA (KING GEORGE) KILLED + + +CHAPTER XLVII. + +EXCITEMENT AT KORORAREKA + + +CHAPTER XLVIII. + +EARLE'S FAREWELL +MISSIONARIES ALARMED + + +CHAPTER XLIX. + +JOURNEY TO HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER L. + +EUROPEAN DEFENCES +MR. HOBBS' MESSAGE OF PEACE + + +CHAPTER LI. + +MAORI SOCIAL CUSTOMS +EUROPEAN LIAISONS WITH MAORIS +MAORI MARRIAGES + + +CHAPTER LII. + +A MAORI TANGI + + +CHAPTER LIII. + +MAORI CHARACTERISTICS +ORIGIN OF OUTRAGES +FAMILY AFFECTION + + +CHAPTER LIV. + +TRADE OF HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER LV. + +A CREW MASSACRED + + +CHAPTER LVI. + +FAREWELL TO NEW ZEALAND +MAORIS IN SYDNEY + + +APPENDIX I. + +MASSACRE OF FURNEAUX'S BOAT'S CREW +CANNIBALISM + + +APPENDIX II. + +A TRIBAL FIGHT + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + +A Maori War Speech (Frontispiece) +Patuone, a Hokianga Chief +Mission Station, Kerikeri +Scene of Boyd Massacre +Maori War Expedition +Maori Method of Tattooing +Specimens of Tattooing +Whalers at Bay of Islands + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +VOYAGE FROM SYDNEY. + + +Having made up my mind to visit the island of New Zealand, and having +persuaded my friend Mr. Shand to accompany me, we made an arrangement for +the passage with Captain Kent, of the brig Governor Macquarie, and, +bidding adieu to our friends at Sydney, in a few hours (on October 20th, +1827) we were wafted into the great Pacific Ocean. + +There were several other passengers on board, who were proceeding to New +Zealand to form a Wesleyan missionary establishment at Hokianga. Amongst +these were a Mr. and Mrs. Hobbs, who were most enthusiastic in the cause. +They had formerly belonged to the same mission at Whangaroa, when a war +which took place amongst the natives totally destroyed their +establishment; and, after enduring great varieties of suffering, they +escaped, but lost everything they possessed, except the clothes they had +on. We had a very fine wind for nine days, and on the 29th we saw a +gannet, a sure sign we were within a hundred miles of land, for these +birds are never seen at a greater distance from it. True to our +anticipations, towards the afternoon the water became discoloured, and at +midnight we saw the land. + +This interesting island, of which we now got sight, was first discovered +by that eminent and enterprising Dutch navigator, Tasman, subsequently to +the discovery of Van Diemen's Land. His voyage from Batavia in 1642, +undertaken by order of the then Governor-General of Dutch India, Anthony +Van Diemen, was one of the most important and successful ever undertaken, +for it was during this voyage that New Holland was discovered, of which +Van Diemen's Land was then supposed to form a part, the extensive island +of New Zealand being supposed to form another portion.[1] + +The slight intercourse of the discoverers with the natives had so +calamitous a termination, and the exaggerated accounts it was then a kind +of fashion to give of savages, stigmatised the New Zealanders with such a +character for treachery and cruelty, that their island was not visited +again for upwards of a century, when the immortal Cook drew aside the +veil of error and obscurity from this unexplored land, and rescued the +character of its inhabitants from the ignominy which its original +discoverers, the Dutch, had thrown upon them. This immense tract of land +was imagined by Tasman to form but one island, and he most unaptly gave +it the name of New Zealand, from its great resemblance (as was stated) to +his own country.[2] + +In 1770 Cook discovered a strait of easy access and safe navigation, +cutting the island nearly in half, thus making two islands of what had +before been imagined but one. This strait bears his name, and is often +traversed by vessels from New South Wales returning home by way of Cape +Horn. + +In 1827 His Majesty's ship Warsprite passed through this strait in +company with the Volage, twenty-eight guns, being the first English line +of battleship which had ever made the attempt. A few years since, Captain +Stewart, commanding a colonial vessel out of Port Jackson, discovered +another strait, which cut off the extreme southern point, making it a +separate island that bears his name, and now almost every year our +sealers and whalers are making additional and useful discoveries along +its coasts. + +These islands lie between lat. 34° and 48°S. and long. 166° and 180°E. +The opening of the land to which we were now opposite, and which was our +destined port, the accurate eye of Cook had observed, but did not attempt +the entrance; and it is only about ten years since, when the two store +ships, the Dromedary and Coromandel, loaded with spars on the coast, that +a small vessel attending on those ships first crossed the bar; but +although they took soundings and laid down buoys, the commanders of the +large vessels were afraid of attempting the entrance, which proved their +good sense, for their great draught of water would have rendered the +undertaking more hazardous than the risk was worth. Yet during my +residence in this country two large vessels crossed the bar, and +recrossed it heavily laden, without the slightest accident--one the +Harmony, of London, 400 tons burden; the other the Elizabeth, of Sydney, +of nearly equal tonnage--but in proof that it is not always safe, a few +months after this, two schooners of extremely light draught were lost, +though they were both commanded by men who perfectly well knew the +channels through the bar. It was a singular circumstance that both +vessels had been built in New Zealand; one, the Herald, a small and +beautiful craft, built by and belonging to the Church missionaries, the +crew of which escaped, but the disastrous circumstances attending the +wreck of the other, called the Enterprise, I shall relate in their proper +place. + +The morning of the 30th was foggy and unfavourable, but it suddenly +cleared up, and exhibited the entrance of Hokianga right before us, and a +light breeze came to our aid to carry us in. The entrance to this river +is very remarkable, and can never be mistaken by mariners. On the north +side, for many miles, are hills of sand, white, bleak, and barren, ending +abruptly at the entrance of the river, which is about a quarter of a mile +across. Where the south head rises abrupt, craggy, and black, the land +all round is covered with verdure; thus, at the first glimpse of these +heads from the sea, one is white, the other black. + +The only difficulty attending the entrance (and, indeed, the only thing +which prevents Hokianga from being one of the finest harbours in the +world) is the bar. This lies two miles from the mouth of the river, its +head enveloped in breakers and foam, bidding defiance and threatening +destruction to all large ships which may attempt the passage. However, +we fortunately slipped over its sandy sides, undamaged, in three-fathom +water. + +After crossing the bar, no other obstacle lay in our way, and, floating +gradually into a beautiful river, we soon lost sight of the sea, and were +sailing up a spacious sheet of water, which became considerably wider +after entering it; while majestic hills rose on each side, covered with +verdure to their very summits. Looking up the river, we beheld various +headlands stretching into the water, and gradually contracting in width, +till they became fainter and fainter in the distance, and all was lost in +the azure of the horizon. The excitement occasioned by contemplating +these beautiful scenes was soon interrupted by the hurried approach of +canoes, and the extraordinary noises made by the natives who were in +them. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 1: The Dutch and Spanish had discovered N.E. Australia as early +as 1606, and the Dutch had on several occasions visited the N.W. and +South coasts of the Continent before the date of Tasman's voyage.] + +[Footnote 2: The name given by Tasman was Staten Landt. The name New +Zealand was bestowed in 1643 by the States-General of the United +Provinces.] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES. + + +As the arrival of a ship is always a profitable occurrence, great +exertions are made to be the first on board. There were several canoes +pulling towards us, and from them a number of muskets were fired, a +compliment we returned with our swivels; one of the canoes soon came +alongside, and an old chief came on board, who rubbed noses with Captain +Kent, whom he recognised as an old acquaintance; he then went round and +shook hands with all the strangers, after which he squatted himself down +upon the deck, seeming very much to enjoy the triumph of being the first +on board. But others very soon coming up with us, our decks were crowded +with them, some boarding us at the gangway, others climbing up the chains +and bows, and finding entrances where they could. All were in perfect +good humour, and pleasure beamed in all their countenances. + +I had heard a great deal respecting the splendid race of men I was going +to visit, and the few specimens I had occasionally met with at Sydney so +much pleased me, that I was extremely anxious to see a number of them +together, to judge whether (as a nation) they were finer in their +proportions than the English, or whether it was mere accident that +brought some of their tallest and finest proportioned men before me. + +I examined these savages, as they crowded round our decks, with the +critical eye of an artist; they were generally taller and larger men +than ourselves; those of middle height were broad-chested and muscular, +and their limbs as sinewy as though they had been occupied all their +lives in laborious employments. Their colour is lighter than that of the +American Indian, their features small and regular, their hair is in a +profusion of beautiful curls, whereas that of the Indian is straight and +lank. The disposition of the New Zealander appears to be full of fun and +gaiety, while the Indian is dull, shy, and suspicious. + +I have known Indians in America from the north to the south--the +miserable, idiotic Botecooda of Brazil, the fierce warrior of Canada, and +the gentle and civilised Peruvian, yet in their features and complexions +they are all much alike. I observed their statures altered with their +different latitudes; the Chilians and the Canadians being nearly the +same, in figure tall, thin, and active, their climate being nearly the +same, although at the two extremes of America; while those living between +the equinoxes are short, fat, and lazy. I am persuaded that these South +Sea Islanders, though so nearly of the same complexion, still are not of +the same race, laziness being the characteristic of the American Indian +from north to south, while the New Zealanders are laborious in the +extreme, as their astonishing and minute carvings prove. The moment the +Indian tasted intoxicating spirits his valour left him, he became an +idiot and a tool in the hands of the white man. Here they have the utmost +aversion to every kind of "wine or strong drink," and very often severely +take us to task for indulging in such an extraordinary and debasing +propensity, or, as they call it, "of making ourselves mad;" but both +nations are equally fond of tobacco. + +The first thing which struck me forcibly was, that each of these savages +was armed with a good musket, and most of them had also a cartouch box +buckled round their waists, filled with ball cartridges, and those who +had fired their pieces from the canoes carefully cleaned the pans, +covered the locks over with a piece of dry rag, and put them in a secure +place in their canoes. Every person who has read Captain Cook's account +of the natives of New Zealand would be astonished at the change which has +taken place since his time, when the firing of a single musket would have +terrified a whole village. + +As we sailed up the river very slowly, the throng of savages increased to +such a degree that we could scarcely move, and, to add to our confusion, +they gave us "a dance of welcome," standing on one spot, and stamping so +furiously that I really feared they would have stove in the decks, which +our lady passengers were obliged to leave, as when the dance began each +man proceeded to strip himself naked, a custom indispensable among +themselves. + +We came to an anchor off a native village called Pakanae, where two +chiefs of consequence came on board, who soon cleared our decks of a +considerable number. We paid great attention to these chiefs, admitting +them into the cabin, etc., and it had the effect of lessening the noise, +and bringing about some kind of order amongst those who still continued +on deck. The names of these chiefs were Moetara and Akaeigh, and they +were the heads of the village opposite to which we had anchored. They +were well known to our captain, who spoke their language. They were +accustomed to the society of Europeans, also to transact business with +them; and as they were flax, timber, and hog merchants, they and the +captain talked over the state of the markets during the evening. They +were clothed in mats, called Kaka-hoos. The ladies joined our party at +supper, and we spent a very cheerful time with our savage visitors, who +both behaved in as polite and respectful a manner as the best educated +gentlemen could have done; their pleasing manners so ingratiated them +into the good opinion of the ladies, that they all declared "they would +be really very handsome men if their faces were not tattooed." + +The next day we received a visit from Mr. and Mrs. Butler, English +people, who had taken up their residence here for the purpose of trading, +and we returned with them on shore, taking our female passengers with us, +and leaving them in charge of Mrs. Butler. I determined to stroll through +the village, which is, in fact, a collection of rude huts, huddled +together without system or regularity. Dock leaves and weeds of every +description were growing luxuriantly all round them, and in many places +actually overtopping the houses, few being more than four feet high, with +a doorway about two feet. Scarcely any of them were inhabited, as at this +season of the year the greater part of the population prefer living in +the open air to remaining in their small, smoky ovens of houses. + +I had not rambled far before I witnessed a scene which forcibly reminded +me of the savage country in which I then was, and the great alteration of +character and customs a few days' sail will make. The sight to me so +appalling was that of the remains of a human body which had been roasted, +and a number of hogs and dogs were snarling and feasting upon it! I was +more shocked than surprised, for I had been informed of the character of +the New Zealanders long before my arrival amongst them; still, the +coming suddenly and unexpectedly upon a sight like this completely +sickened me of rambling, at least for that day, and I hastened back to +Mr. Butler's, eager to inquire into the particulars of the horrid +catastrophe. + +That gentleman informed me that the night of the arrival of our ship, a +chief had set one of his kookies (or slaves) to watch a piece of ground +planted with the kumara, or sweet potato, in order to prevent the hogs +committing depredations upon it. The poor lad, delighted with the +appearance of our vessel, was more intent upon observing her come to an +anchor than upon guarding his master's property, and suffered the hogs to +ramble into the plantation, where they soon made dreadful havoc. In the +midst of this trespass and neglect of orders his master arrived. The +result was certain; he instantly killed the unfortunate boy with a blow +on the head from his stone hatchet, then ordered a fire to be made, and +the body to be dragged to it, where it was roasted and consumed. + +It was now time to return on board, and we walked down to the beach for +that purpose, but it was quite low water, and the boat was full two +hundred feet off. She lay at the end of a long, slimy, muddy flat, and +while we were debating how we should manage to get to her, the native +chiefs took up the females in their arms, as though they were children, +and, in spite of all their blushes and remonstrances, carried them to the +boat and placed them safely in it, each seeming to enjoy the task. They +then returned and gave us a passage, walking as easily with us upon their +backs as if we had been no heavier than so many muskets. We took care not +to shock the feelings of the females by letting them know the tragedy so +lately acted in the village, or horrify them by telling them that one of +their carriers was the murderer! It would have been difficult to have +made them believe that such a noble-looking and good-natured fellow had +so lately imbrued his hands in the blood of a fellow creature. + +We had now been lying here two days, and the curiosity of the people did +not diminish, nor were our visitors less numerous. Parties were hourly +coming up and down the river to pay their respects to our captain, and +the report of there being numerous passengers on board greatly increased +their desire to hold intercourse with us. They all appeared anxious to +make themselves useful, some chopping wood for our cook, others assisting +the steward, in order to get what might be left on the plates, others +brought small presents of fish; in fact, all availed themselves of any +excuse to get on board; yet, notwithstanding the crowd, and the confusion +attending their movements, there was scarcely any thieving amongst them. +They have seen the detestation that theft is held in by Europeans, and +the injury it does to trade, and have, in consequence, nearly left it +off. None but the meanest slaves will now practise it, and they do so at +the risk of their lives; for, if caught in the act, and the charge is +proved against them, their heads are cut off! + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +A RAMBLE ASHORE. + + +On November 3rd we visited Pakanae, a village lying round the base of a +large conical hill, about three hundred feet high, with a fortification +on the top, which gives it its name, pa signifying in their language a +fortified place. Behind it lies a swamp, which is covered at high water, +and which adds greatly to its security; for the unsettled and war-like +spirit of the natives renders it absolutely necessary that they always +should have a place of strength near at hand to retreat to, as they never +know how suddenly their enemies may make an attack upon them. To the +right of this swamp is a beautiful valley, in a very high state of +cultivation. At the time I stood viewing it from the summit of the hill, +I was charmed with the scene of industry and bustle it presented, all the +inhabitants of the village having gone forth to plant their potatoes, +kumaras, and Indian corn. In the rear, and forming a fine, bold +background, is an immense chain of high and rugged hills, covered to +their summits with thick forests, and forming, as it were, a natural +barrier and protection to this smiling and fruitful valley, while from +their wooded sides issue innumerable small streams of clear water, which, +meeting at the base, form beautiful rivulets, and after meandering +through the valley, and serving all the purposes of irrigation, they +empty themselves into the Hokianga river. + +Standing on the spot from which I have described the above prospect, I +felt fully convinced of the frugality and industry of these savages. The +regularity of their plantations, and the order with which they carry on +their various works, differ greatly from most of their brethren in the +South Seas, as here the chiefs and their families set the example of +labour; and when that is the case, none can refuse to toil. Round the +village of Pakanae, at one glance is to be seen above 200 acres of +cultivated land, and that not slightly turned up, but well worked and +cleared; and when the badness of their tools is considered, together with +their limited knowledge of agriculture, their persevering industry I look +upon as truly astonishing. + +The New Zealanders have established here a wise custom, which prevents a +great deal of waste and confusion, and generally preserves to the planter +a good crop, in return for the trouble of sowing; namely, as soon as the +ground is finished, and the seed sown, it is _tabooed,_ that, is rendered +sacred, by men appointed for that service, and it is death to trample +over or disturb any part of this consecrated ground. The wisdom and +utility of this regulation must be obvious to every one. But, however +useful this taboo system is to the natives, it is a great inconvenience +to a stranger who is rambling over the country, for if he does not use +the greatest caution, and procure a guide, he may get himself into a +serious dilemma before his rambles be over, which had nearly been the +case with our party this day. We were ascending a hill, for the purpose +of inspecting a New Zealand fortification on the summit, when a little +boy joined our party, either out of curiosity, or in hopes of getting a +fish-hook from us--a thing the natives are continually asking for; but as +we had a man with us who spoke the language fluently, we did not much +regard the boy's guidance, though to us it speedily became of great +importance. We were taking a short cut, to make a quick ascent to the top +of the hill, when the little fellow uttered a cry of horror. Our +interpreter asked him what he meant, when he pointed his finger forward, +and told him to look, for the ground was tabooed. We did as he desired +us, but beheld nothing particular, till he showed us, in one of the +trees, among the branches, a large bunch of something, but we could not +make out what it was. This, he told us, was the body of a chief, then +undergoing the process of decomposition, previous to interment, which +process is witnessed by men appointed for that purpose, who alone are +permitted to approach the spot. The ground all round is tabooed, so that, +had it not been for the interference of our young guide, we should +certainly have been placed in a most distressing situation; and it is a +question if our ignorance of their customs would have been considered a +sufficient excuse for our offence. + +The top of this hill was level and square, and was capable of containing +several hundred warriors. It was cut into slopes all round, and fortified +by stockades in every direction, which rendered it impregnable. The +natives assured me its strength had been often tried. The famous warrior +Hongi had attacked it several times, but had always been defeated with +great loss. After inspecting this fortification, which excited our +admiration, we proceeded through the village at the bottom of the hill. +Nearly the whole of the inhabitants were out working in the fields. We +entered several of their habitations, and found all their property +exposed and unguarded. Even their muskets and powder, which they prize +above everything, were open to our inspection, so little idea of robbery +have they amongst themselves. But as there are many hogs and dogs roaming +at large through their villages, they are very careful to fence their +dwellings round with wicker work, to preserve them from the depredations +of these animals; and as the houses are extremely low, they have very +much the appearance of bird cages or rabbit hutches. Their storehouses +are generally placed upon poles, a few feet from the ground, and tabooed +or consecrated. Great taste and ingenuity are displayed in carving and +ornamenting these depositories. I made drawings from several of them, +which were entirely covered with carving; and some good attempts at +groups of figures, as large as life, plainly showed the dawning of the +art of sculpture amongst them. Many of the attempts of the New Zealanders +in that art are quite as good, if not better, than various specimens I +have seen of the first efforts of the early Egyptians. + +Painting and sculpture are both arts greatly admired by these rude +people. Every house of consequence is ornamented and embellished, and +their canoes have the most minute and elaborate workmanship bestowed upon +them. + +Their food is always eaten out of little baskets, rudely woven of green +flax; and as they generally leave some for their next meal, they hang +these baskets on sticks or props, till they are ready to eat again. Thus +a village presents a very singular appearance, as it is stuck full of +sticks, with various kinds of baskets hanging from them. This plan, +however, is the most rational that could be adopted, as none of their +eatables can be left on the ground, or they would become the prey of the +hogs and dogs. + +In the course of our long ramble we noticed many pretty little huts, some +having neat gardens all round them, planted with fruits and corn. One +house which we saw was built by a chief who had made several voyages to +Port Jackson, and it was really a very comfortable dwelling. It had a +high door, which we could enter without stooping, and in a separate room +was constructed a bed, after the pattern of one on ship-board. He had +likewise a large sea-chest in his house, the key of which (highly +polished) was hung round his neck as an ornament. In the course of our +walk we came to a spot on which a group of old people were sitting +sunning themselves, and they immediately all rose to welcome us. I +remarked one amongst them who seemed, from his silvery locks and feeble +limbs, to be very old. I asked him, among other questions, whether he +remembered Captain Cook. He said he did not, but well recollected Captain +Furneaux, and was one of the party which cut off and massacred his boat's +crew; and from other information which I received I believe his assertion +to have been correct.[3] + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 3: Captain Furneaux's account of this massacre is printed in +the Appendix.] + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE HOKIANGA RIVER EIGHTY YEARS AGO. + + +As our missionary passengers had by this time fixed upon the spot where +they intended to establish their settlement, and it being several miles +up the river, we got under weigh to proceed thither. The captain's +agreement being to that effect, we proceeded with the first fair wind, +about twenty miles up the stream, which was as far as we could with +safety take the vessel. The shores on each side this noble river are +composed of hills gradually rising behind each other, most of them +covered with woods to the water's edge. Not a vestige of a habitation is +to be seen, and if it had not been for the occasional sight of a canoe, +we might have imagined the country to be totally uninhabited. Opposite a +small island, or, rather, sand-bank, the vessel grounded, and had to +remain there till the next tide floated her off. It was a curious and +interesting spot, being a native pa and depot, and was entirely covered +with storehouses for provisions and ammunition. The centre was so +contrived that all assailants might be cut off before they could effect a +landing; and we were all much gratified by the judgment and forethought +displayed in this little military work. The next morning we got off, but +could not proceed far, as the shoals were becoming so numerous as to +render the navigation dangerous. But here we beheld, with both surprise +and satisfaction, a most unexpected sight, namely, a snug little colony +of our own countrymen, comfortably settled and usefully employed in this +savage and unexplored country. Some enterprising merchants of Port +Jackson have established here a dockyard and a number of sawpits. Several +vessels have been laden with timber and spars; one vessel has been built, +launched, and sent to sea from this spot; and another of a hundred and +fifty tons burthen was then upon the stocks! + +On landing at this establishment at Te Horeke, or, as the Englishmen have +called it, "Deptford," I was greatly delighted with the appearance of +order, bustle, and industry it presented. Here were storehouses, +dwelling-houses, and various offices for the mechanics; and every +department seemed as well filled as it could have been in a civilised +country. To me the most interesting circumstance was to notice the great +delight of the natives, and the pleasure they seemed to take in observing +the progress of the various works. All were officious to "lend a hand," +and each seemed eager to be employed. This feeling corresponds with my +idea of the best method of civilising a savage. Nothing can more +completely show the importance of the useful arts than a dockyard. In it +are practised nearly all the mechanical trades; and these present to the +busy enquiring mind of a New Zealander a practical encyclopaedia of +knowledge. When he sees the combined exertions of the smith and carpenter +create so huge a fabric as a ship, his mind is filled with wonder and +delight; and when he witnesses the moulding of iron at the anvil, it +excites his astonishment and emulation. + +The people of the dockyard informed me that, although it was constantly +crowded with natives, scarcely anything had ever been stolen, and all the +chiefs in the neighbourhood took so great an interest in the work that +any annoyance offered to those employed would immediately be revenged as +a personal affront. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +JOURNEY OVERLAND TO BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +Here we left the brig to unload her cargo; my friend Shand and myself +having determined to proceed overland to the Bay of Islands. An +intelligent chief, hearing of our intention, offered to accompany us +himself, and lent us two of his kookies to carry our baggage. We accepted +the chieftain's offer, and several other natives joined the party to bear +us company. + +November 7.--We all embarked in a canoe, in order to reach the head of +the river before we began our pedestrian tour; and, after paddling about +eight or nine miles further up, where the river became exceedingly +narrow, we came to another English settlement. This consisted of a party +of men who had come out in the Rosanna, the vessel employed by the New +Zealand Company. When all ideas of settling were totally abandoned by the +officers sent out for that purpose, these men chose rather to remain by +themselves than to return home; and we found them busily employed in +cutting timber, sawing planks, and making oars for the Sydney market. How +far they may prove successful, time only can develop; but as these +enterprising men had only their own industry to assist them, it could not +be expected that their establishment could bear a comparison with the one +at Te Horeke, which is supported by several of the most wealthy +merchants of New South Wales. + +As the river became narrower, the habitations of the natives were more +numerous. The chief of this district (whose name is Patuone) has a +splendid village very near the carpenters' establishment we have just +described. He had taken these industrious men under his especial +protection, and seemed very proud of having a settlement of that kind in +his territories, as it gave him power and consequence among all the +neighbouring chiefs, from the trade he carried on by means of their +exertions. + +Patuone had likewise induced the Wesleyan missionaries to settle upon his +land, about a mile below; so that the head of this river assumed quite +the appearance of a civilised colony. + +Our party now disembarked. We landed in a dense forest, which reached to +the water's edge; and our guides and slaves began to divide the loads +each was to carry on his back. Several joined us from the two English +stations on the river, and we then amounted to a very large party; all in +high spirits, and anxious to proceed on our journey. When our natives had +distributed the luggage, they loaded themselves, which they did with both +skill and quickness; for a New Zealander is never at a loss for cords or +ropes. Their plan is to gather a few handfuls of flax, which they soon +twist into a very good substitute: with this material they formed slings, +with which they dexterously fastened our moveables on their backs, and +set off at a good trot, calling out to us to follow them. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +MEETING WITH THE CHIEF PATUONE. + + +We travelled through a wood so thick that the light of heaven could not +penetrate the trees that composed it. They were so large and so close +together that in many places we had some difficulty to squeeze ourselves +through them. To add to our perplexities, innumerable streams intersected +this forest, which always brought us Europeans to a complete standstill. +The only bridges which the natives ever think of making are formed by +cutting down a tree, and letting it fall across; and over these our +bare-legged attendants, loaded as they were, scrambled with all the +agility of cats or monkeys; but it was not so with us: for several times +they seated one of us on the top of their load, and carried him over. The +chief, who accompanied us, made it his particular business to see me safe +through every difficulty, and many times he carried me himself over such +places as I dared scarcely venture to look down upon. + +In the midst of this wood we met the chief of this district, Patuone, +who, together with all his family, were employed in planting a small, +cleared patch of land. He appeared highly delighted at beholding +strangers; and all his wives came from their occupations to welcome us. +He told us that, a very few miles farther on, we should come to a village +belonging to him, where his eldest son was residing, and that we must +there pass the night. + +[Illustration: Patuone, a Notable Hokianga Chief.] + +We thanked him for the invitation, rubbed noses with him (their token of +friendship), and parted. + +Soon after parting with Patuone, we fell in with a most beautiful bull, +cow, and calf. I was amazed at seeing such fine animals in this country; +but my companions soon cleared up the mystery by informing me that they +were gifts from the missionaries, who had orders from Home to distribute +these useful animals amongst such chiefs as they thought would take care +of them: a wise and beneficial measure. These animals were tabooed, +consequently they could ramble wherever they found food most to their +liking. About dusk we arrived at the village Patuone had described to us. +We were most happy to see it, as we were heartily tired, and dripping wet +from a recent and heavy shower. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +A MAORI VILLAGE. + + +The village was situated on the side of a small, picturesque stream, one +of the branches of the Hokianga, but continued droughts had at this time +reduced it to a trifling brook. From its lofty banks, and the large trees +lying athwart it, we conjectured that during heavy rains it must be a +mighty flood. A long straggling collection of huts composed the village: +a great deal of land in its vicinity was cleared and planted, which +doubtless was the ostensible object of Patuone's people being here. As +the village lay upon the opposite shore from that on which we arrived, we +sat some time under the shelter of a large tree, to contemplate its +appearance, and to give time to arrange our party for passing the stream, +and also for my making a sketch. The red glare of the setting sun, just +touching the top of every object, beautifully illuminated the landscape; +and its rays bursting through the black woods in the background, gave the +woods an appearance of being on fire; while a beautiful rainbow, thrown +across the sky, tinged the scene with a fairy-land effect. + +As soon as they perceived us from the opposite shore, a loud shout of +welcome was raised, and all the inhabitants came out to meet us. They +carried us over the stream, conducted us to their huts, and then sat down +to gaze at and admire us. + +As we were very hungry after our fatiguing walk, we soon unpacked our +baggage, and in so doing made an unavoidable display of many valuable and +glittering objects, which roused the attention of our savage spectators, +and caused them, on the unfolding of every fresh object, to make loud and +long exclamations of wonder and amazement. As I was then "a stranger in +their land," and unaccustomed to their peculiarities, I felt a little +alarmed at their shouts; but, on a longer acquaintance with them, I found +my fears had been groundless. + +Here we saw the son of Patuone, accompanied by thirty or forty young +savages, sitting or lying all round us. All were exceedingly handsome, +notwithstanding the wildness of their appearance and the ferocity of +their looks. Let the reader picture to himself this savage group, +handling everything they saw, each one armed with a musket, loaded with +ball, a cartouch-box buckled round his waist, and a stone patoo-patoo, or +hatchet, in his hand, while human bones were hung round each neck by way +of ornament; let the scene and situation be taken into consideration, and +he will acknowledge it was calculated to make the young traveller wish +himself safe at home; but, when I suspected, I wronged them; for after +admiring everything we had brought with us (more especially our +fowling-pieces, which were very beautiful ones), they begged a little +tobacco, then retired to a distance from the hut which had been prepared +for our reception, and left us to take our supper uninterrupted; after +which they placed all our baggage in the hut, that we might be assured of +its safety. + +It proved a rainy, miserable night; and we were a large party, crowded +into a small, smoky hut, with a fire lighted in the middle; as, after +our supper, the natives, in order to have as much of our company as +possible, crowded it till it was literally crammed. However annoying this +might be, still I was recompensed by the novelty and picturesque +appearance of the scene. Salvator Rosa could not have conceived a finer +study of the horrible. A dozen men, of the largest and most athletic +forms, their cakahoos (or mat-dresses) laid aside, and their huge limbs +exposed to the red glare of the fire; their faces rendered hideous by +being tattooed all over, showing by the firelight quite a bright blue; +their eyes, which are remarkable for their fierce expression, all fixed +upon us, but with a look of good temper, co-mingled with intense +curiosity. All my fears had by this time subsided, and, being master of +myself, I had leisure to study and enjoy the scene; we smoked a social +pipe with them (for they are all immoderately fond of tobacco), and I +then stretched myself down to sleep amidst all their chattering and +smoke. + +But all my attempts at slumber were fruitless. I underwent a simultaneous +attack of vermin of all descriptions; fleas, mosquitoes, and sand-flies, +which, beside their depredations on my person, made such a buzzing noise, +that even the chattering of the natives could not drown it, or the smoke +from the fire or pipes drive them away. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +TOILSOME JOURNEY THROUGH THE FOREST. + + +Next morning, at daybreak, we took leave of our hosts, and proceeded on +our journey; we had eight miles more of this thick forest to scramble +through, and this part we found considerably worse than that we had +traversed yesterday. The roots of trees covered the path in all +directions, rendering it necessary to watch every step we took, in order +to prevent being thrown down; the supple-jacks, suspended and twining +from tree to tree, making in many places a complete net-work; and while +we were toiling with the greatest difficulty through this miserable road, +our natives were jogging on as comfortably as possible: use had so +completely accustomed them to it, that they sprung over the roots, and +dived under the supple-jacks and branches, with perfect ease, while we +were panting after them in vain. The whole way was mountainous. The +climbing up, and then descending, was truly frightful; not a gleam of sky +was to be seen, all was a mass of gigantic trees, straight and lofty, +their wide spreading branches mingling overhead, and producing throughout +the forest an endless darkness and unbroken gloom. + +After three or four hours of laborious struggling, we emerged from the +wood, and found ourselves upon an extensive plain, which, as far as the +eye could reach, appeared covered with fern. A small path lay before us, +and this was our road. The New Zealanders always travel on foot, one +after the other, or in Indian file. Their pathways are not more than a +foot wide, which to a European is most painful; but as the natives +invariably walk with the feet turned in, or pigeon-toed, they feel no +inconvenience from the narrowness. When a traveller is once on the path, +it is impossible for him to go astray. No other animal, except man, ever +traverses this country, and _his_ track cannot be mistaken, since none +ever deviate from the beaten footpath, which was in consequence, in some +places (where the soil was light), worn so deep as to resemble a gutter +more than a road. We proceeded for many miles in this unsocial manner; +unsocial, for it precludes all conversation. Our natives occasionally +gave us a song, or, rather, dirge, in which they all joined chorus. +Having at length attained the summit of a hill, we beheld the Bay of +Islands, stretching out in the distance; and at sunset we arrived at the +Kerikeri river, where there is a Church-missionary settlement. + +[Illustration: Mission Station, Kerikeri.] + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE MISSIONARY SETTLEMENT AT KERIKERI. + + +We had travelled all day through a country in which every object we saw +was of a character that reminded us forcibly of the savage community we +were with. Occasionally we met groups of naked men, trotting along under +immense loads, and screaming their barbarous songs of recognition; +sometimes we beheld an uncouthly carved figure, daubed over with red +ochre, and fixed in the ground, to give notice that one side of the road +was tabooed. An extraordinary contrast was now presented to our view, for +we came suddenly in front of a complete little English village. Wreaths +of white smoke were rising from the chimneys, of neat weather-boarded +houses. The glazed windows reflected the brilliant glow from the rays of +the setting sun, while herds of fat cattle were winding down the hills, +lowing as they leisurely bent their steps toward the farm-yard. It is +impossible for me to describe what I felt on contemplating a scene so +similar to those I had left behind me. + +According to the custom of this country, we fired our muskets, to warn +the inhabitants of the settlement of our approach. We arranged our +dresses in the best order we could, and proceeded towards the village. As +the report of our guns had been heard, groups of nondescripts came +running out to meet us. I could scarcely tell to what order of beings +they belonged; but on their near approach, I found them to be the New +Zealand youths, who were settled with the missionaries. They were habited +in the most uncouth dresses imaginable. These pious men, certainly, have +no taste for the picturesque; they had obscured the finest human forms +under a seaman's huge clothing. Boys not more than fifteen wore jackets +reaching to their knees, and buttoned up to the throat with great black +horn buttons, a coarse checked shirt, the collar of which spread half-way +over their face, their luxuriant, beautiful hair was cut close off, and +each head was crammed into a close Scotch bonnet! + +These half-converted, or, rather, half-_covered_, youths, after rubbing +noses, and chattering with our guides, conducted us to the dwellings of +their masters. As I had a letter of introduction from one of their own +body, I felt not the slightest doubt of a kind reception; so we proceeded +with confidence. We were ushered into a house, all cleanliness and +comfort, all order, silence, and unsociability. After presenting my +letter to a grave-looking personage, it had to undergo a private +inspection in an adjoining room, and the result was an invitation "to +stay and take a cup of tea!" All that an abundant farm and excellent +grocer in England could supply were soon before us. Each person of the +mission, as he appeared during our repast, was called aside, and I could +hear my own letter read and discussed by them. I could not help thinking +(within myself) whether this was a way to receive a countryman at the +Antipodes! No smile beamed upon their countenance; there were no +inquiries after news; in short, there was no touch of human sympathy, +such as we "of the world" feel at receiving an Englishman under our roof +in such a savage country as this! + +The chubby children who peeped at us from all corners, and the very +hearty appearance of their parents, plainly evidenced that theirs was an +excellent and thriving trade. We had a cold invitation to stay all night; +but this the number of our party entirely precluded; so they lent us +their boat to convey us to the Bay of Islands, a distance of about +twenty-five miles. + +As the night proved dark and stormy, and as our boat was crowded with +natives, our passage down the Kerikeri river became both disagreeable and +dangerous. The river being filled with rocks, some under, and others just +above the water, we were obliged to keep a good look-out. After +experiencing many alarms, we arrived safely at Kororareka beach about +midnight, where an Englishman of the name of Johnstone gave us a shelter +in his hut. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +In the morning we beheld two vessels at anchor in the harbour. The +Indian, whaler, of London, and the East India Company's ship Research; +which latter ship had been cruising in search of the wreck of the vessels +under the command of La Perouse, and had completely elucidated the +circumstances relating to that event. The Bay of Islands is surrounded by +lofty and picturesque hills, and is secured from all winds. It is full of +lovely coves, and a safe anchorage is to be found nearly all over it; +added to this, a number of navigable rivers are for ever emptying +themselves into the Bay, which is spotted with innumerable romantic +islands all covered with perpetual verdure. + +It is with peculiar interest that we look upon the spot where the +illustrious Cook cast anchor after his discovery of this Bay. Some +unhappy quarrels with the natives occasioned much blood to be shed on +both sides, and for a long time caused this island to be looked upon with +horror, and avoided by all Europeans. It was the courage and enterprise +of the crews of our South Sea Whalers who exhibited these interesting +islanders in their true character, and proved to the world that it was +quite as safe to anchor in the Bay of Islands as in the harbour of Port +Jackson. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +THE MASSACRE OF THE "BOYD." + + +Since the time of Cook, and other circumnavigators of that period, the +character of these people has undergone a thorough change. Then it was +necessary when a ship anchored, that the boarding nettings should be up, +and all the arms ready for immediate use. The principal object the chiefs +had in view seemed to be to lull the commanders into a fatal security, +then to rush upon them, seize their vessel, and murder all the crew! Too +often had they succeeded, and as often have they paid most dearly for +their treachery and cruelty. In the case of the ship Boyd, though they +attained their object, they were as completely punished for their +perfidy. From their ignorance of the nature of powder, and the use of a +magazine, they blew up the ship, and vast numbers of the natives were +destroyed. Besides this calamity, they brought down upon themselves the +vengeance of every vessel that visited these shores for a long period +afterwards. As the circumstances may not be generally known, Mr. Berry's +letter, relating the particulars of that melancholy, yet interesting +event, is here inserted:-- + + "Ship, City of Edinburgh, + "Lima, Oct. 20, 1810. + Sir,-- + + I am very sorry to have the painful task of introducing myself to + you, with an account of the loss of your ship Boyd, Captain + Thompson. + + Towards the end of last year I was employed in the Bay of + Islands, New Zealand, in procuring a cargo of spars for the Cape + of Good Hope. About the middle of December the natives brought me + an account of a ship's being taken at Whangaroa, a harbour about + fifty miles to the N.W. At first we were disposed to doubt the + truth of this report, but it every day became more probable, from + the variety of circumstances they informed us of; and which were + so connected as appeared impossible for them to invent. + Accordingly, about the end of the month, when we had finished our + cargo, although it was a business of some danger, I determined to + go round. + + "I set out with three armed boats: we experienced very bad + weather, and after a narrow escape were glad to return to the + ship. As we arrived in a most miserable condition, I had then + relinquished all idea of the enterprise; but having recruited my + strength and spirits, I was shocked at the idea of leaving any of + my countrymen in the hands of savages, and determined to make a + second attempt. We had this time better weather, and reached the + harbour without any difficulty. Whangaroa is formed as + follows:--First, a large outer bay, with an island at its + entrance; in the bottom of this bay is seen a narrow opening, + which appears terminated at the distance of a quarter of a mile; + but, upon entering it, it is seen to expand into two large + basins, at least as secure as any of the docks on the banks of + the Thames, and capable of containing (I think) the whole British + navy. We found the wreck of the Boyd in shoal water, at the top + of the harbour, a most melancholy picture of wanton mischief. The + natives had cut her cables, and towed her up the harbour till she + had grounded, and then set her on fire, and burnt her to the + water's edge. In her hold were seen the remains of her + cargo--coals, salted seal skins, and planks. Her guns, iron, + standards, etc., were lying on the top, having fallen in when her + decks were consumed. + + "The cargo must have been very valuable; but it appears that the + captain, anxious to make a better voyage, had come to that port + for the purpose of filling up with spars for the Cape of Good + Hope. + + "Not to tire you with the minutia of the business, I recovered + from the natives a woman, two children, and a boy of the name of + Davies, one of your apprentices, who were the only survivors. I + found also the accompanying papers, which, I hope, may prove of + service to you. I did all this by gentle measures, and you will + admit that bloodshed and revenge would have answered no good + purpose. The ship was taken the third morning after her arrival. + The captain had been rather too hasty in resenting some slight + theft. Early in the morning the ship was surrounded by a great + number of canoes, and many natives gradually insinuated + themselves on board. Tippahee, a chief of the Bay of Islands, and + who had been twice at Port Jackson, also arrived; he went into + the cabin, and, after paying his respects to the captain, begged + a little bread for his men; but the captain received him rather + slightingly, and desired him to go away, and not trouble him, as + he was busy. + + "The proud old savage (who had been a constant guest at the + Governor's table at Port Jackson) was highly offended at this + treatment, immediately left the cabin, and, after stamping a few + minutes on the deck, went into his canoe. After breakfast the + captain went on shore with four hands, and no other arms but his + fowling-piece. From the account of the savages, as soon as he + landed they rushed upon him; he had only time to fire his piece, + and it killed a child. As soon as the captain left the ship, + Tippahee (who remained alongside in his canoe) came again on + board. A number of sailors were repairing sails upon the quarter + deck, and the remainder were carelessly dispersed about, and + fifty of the natives were sitting on the deck. In a moment they + all started up, and each knocked his man on the head: a few ran + wounded below, and four or five escaped up the rigging, and in a + few seconds the savages had complete possession of the ship. The + boy Davies escaped into the hold, where he lay concealed for + several days, till they were fairly glutted with human blood, + when they spared his life. The woman says she was discovered by + an old savage, and that she moved him by her tears and embraces; + that he (being a subordinate chief) carried her to Tippahee, who + allowed him to spare her life. She says, that at this time the + deck was covered with human bodies, which they were employed in + cutting up; after which they exhibited a most horrid dance and + song in honour of their victory, and concluded by a hymn of + gratitude to their god. + + "Tippahee now took the speaking trumpet, and hailing the poor + wretches at the mast-head, told them that he was now captain, + and that they must in future obey his commands. He then ordered + them to unbend the sails, they readily complied; but when he + ordered them to come down they hesitated, but he enforced prompt + obedience by threatening to cut away the masts. When they came + down he received them with much civility, and told them he would + take care of them; he immediately ordered them into a canoe, and + sent them on shore. A few minutes after this the woman went on + shore with her deliverer. The first object that struck her view + was the dead bodies of these men, lying naked on the beach. As + soon as she landed a number of men started up, and marched + towards her with their patoo-patoos. A number of women ran + screaming betwixt them, covered her with their clothes, and by + tears and entreaties saved her life. + + "The horrid feasting on human flesh which followed would be too + shocking for description. The second mate begged his life at the + time of the general massacre; they spared him for a fortnight, + and then killed and eat him. I think if the captain had received + Tippahee with a little more civility, that he would have informed + him of his danger, and saved the ship; but that from being + treated in the manner I have mentioned, he entered into the plot + along with the others. + + "I assure you it has been a most unpleasant thing for me to write + about, and I could only have been induced to do it from a sense + of duty, and a desire to give you all the information in my + power, which I suppose may be of some use. + + "I am, Sir, + "Your obedient humble servant, + "ALEXANDER BERRY." + +Considering Mr. Berry's limited acquaintance with these islanders, and +the horror of the scene before him, his is a good and an impartial +account; but facts which have been obtained subsequently have exonerated +the natives to a certain extent. By repeated conversations I have held +with several chiefs who were engaged in this dreadful affair, and from +information I procured at Sydney, I have no doubt but that the Captain +himself was the most in fault. + +[Illustration: Whangaroa, Scene of the "Boyd" Massacre.] + +He was commissioned by the Government of New South Wales to land a native +chief named Philip at New Zealand, whom he subjected to a cruel and +impolitic punishment. This man, smarting from his stripes, and burning +with a desire to revenge his dishonourable treatment, excited all his +friends to the commission of that bloody massacre. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +THE FIRST SETTLEMENT AT KORORAREKA. + + +The tragic fate of the Boyd's crew is now fast sinking into oblivion; +and, like the islanders of Hawaii, after the murder of Cook, they seem to +wish to obliterate the remembrance of their disgraceful conduct by a kind +and friendly intercourse with our nation. The severe chastisement which +they have always received from us after a treacherous action, has proved +to them how little they gain by so debasing a line of conduct; and as +they are most anxious to possess many of our productions, they seem to +have come to a resolution to abandon their former system; which, if they +may not be sensible of the injustice of, they see is destructive to their +own interests; and now every chief is as solicitous for the safety of a +European vessel as he would have been formerly for its destruction. + +They have not only lost a portion of their ferocity, but also much of +their native simplicity of character, which, in all parts of the world, +is so highly interesting a study for the traveller. Their constant +intercourse with whalers, who are generally low, unpolished men, leaves +behind it a tinge of vulgarity, of which the native women retain the +largest portion. In many instances, they quite spoil their good looks, by +half adopting the European costume. Those who are living in the +retirement of their own villages have a natural ease and elegance of +manner, which they soon lose after their introduction to our rough +sailors. I have seen a party of very handsome girls, just landing from +one of the whalers, their beautiful forms hid under old greasy red or +checked shirts, generally put on with the hind parts before. In some +cases the sailors, knowing their taste for finery, bring out with them, +from London, old tawdry gowns, and fierce coloured ribands. And thus +equipped, they come on shore the most grotesque objects imaginable, each +highly delighted with her gaudy habiliments. + +Kororareka beach, where we took up our residence, seemed the general +place of rendezvous for all Europeans whom chance might bring into this +bay. At this time there were two large vessels lying at anchor within a +quarter of a mile of the shore, and I was informed there were sometimes +as many as twelve or thirteen. + +The spot is a most delightful one, being about three-quarters of a mile +in extent, sheltered by two picturesque promontories, and possessing a +fine circular, firm, sandy beach, on which there is seldom much surf, so +that boats can at all times land and haul up. Scattered amongst the +rushes and small bushes is seen a New Zealand village, which at first +landing is scarcely perceptible, the huts being so low. Some of them are +of English design, though of native workmanship. These are generally the +dwellings of some Europeans, who are of so doubtful a character that it +would be difficult to guess to what order of society they belonged +previous to their being transplanted amongst these savages. + +I found a respectable body of Scotch mechanics settled here, who came out +in the New Zealand Company's ship Rosanna, and who determined to remain +at Kororareka. Their persevering industry as yet has been crowned with +success, and they seem well pleased with the prospects before them. + +Here, these hardy sons of Britain are employed in both carrying on and +instructing the wondering savage in various branches of useful art. Here +the smith has erected his forge, and his sooty mansion is crowded by +curious natives, who voluntarily perform the hardest and most dirty work, +and consider themselves fully recompensed by a sight of his mysterious +labours, every portion of which fills them with astonishment. Here is +heard daily the sound of the sawpit, while piles of neat white planks +appear arranged on the beach. These laborious and useful Scotchmen +interfere with no one, and pursue successfully their industrious career, +without either requiring or receiving any assistance from Home. + +But there is another class of Europeans here, who are both useless and +dangerous, and these lower the character of the white people in the +estimation of the natives. These men are called "Beach Rangers," most of +whom have deserted from, or have been turned out of whalers for crimes, +for which, had they been taken Home and tried, they would have been +hanged; some few among them, having been too lazy to finish the voyage +they had begun, had deserted from their ships, and were then leading a +mean and miserable life amongst the natives. + +There is still a third class of our countrymen to be met with here, whose +downcast and sneaking looks proclaim them to be runaway convicts from New +South Wales. These unhappy men are treated with derision and contempt by +all classes; and the New Zealanders, being perfectly aware of their state +of degradation, refuse all intercourse with them. They are idle, +unprincipled, and vicious in the extreme, and are much feared in the Bay +of Islands; for when by any means they obtain liquor, they prove +themselves most dangerous neighbours. + +My friend Shand and myself were most comfortably situated. An intimate +friend of mine (Captain Duke, of the whaler The Sisters) had, in +consequence of ill-health, taken up his residence on shore while his +vessel completed her cruise. In his hut we found comfort and safety; and +from his information and advice we were enabled to avoid the advances of +all whom his experience had taught him were to be shunned. + +On terms of the closest intimacy, and with his hut adjoining that of my +friend Captain Duke, lived Shulitea[4] (or King George, as he styled +himself), a chief of great power, who controlled the whole of the +district where we were. We all felt grateful to him for his +manifestations of friendship, and at the same time were conscious of +enjoying a greater degree of security by his proximity. He was the first +chief who offered protection to "the white people," and he has never been +known to have broken his engagement. An unexpected and remarkable +instance of his adherence to their interests, in spite of temptation, +took place a few years since, which I deem worthy of relation here. + +The ship Brompton, in endeavouring to work out of the bay, by some +accident got on shore, and finally became a complete wreck. This fine +vessel, with a valuable cargo on board, lay helpless on the beach, and +the crew and passengers expected nothing less than plunder and +destruction. The natives from the interior, hearing of the circumstance, +hastened down in vast numbers to participate in the general pillage. But +King George summoned all his warriors to his aid, and with this party +placed himself between the wreck and those who came to plunder it. I was +informed by several who were present at the time, that, after declaring +that "not an article should be taken till himself and all his party were +destroyed," he advanced, and thus explained his reasons for protecting +the strangers and their property:-- + +"You" (said King George) "come from the interior; all of you think only +of what you can get, without considering the consequences, which, indeed, +are of little import to you, living, as you do, out of reach of the +reproaches and vengeance of the white men. But look how differently I am +situated. I live on the beach; this Bay is my residence; I invite the +white men to come and trade here under the promise of my protection; they +come; several years of profitable trading have passed between us. King +George, they say, is a good man; now an accident has befallen one of +their ships in my territory, what must King George do? Why, he _must_ +assist them; which he _will_ do, and defend them against everyone who +shall attempt to injure them." In consequence of this speech, and his +exertions, not a thing was taken from the wreck by the savages who had +collected for that purpose. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 4: The chief referred to by Mr. Earle as Shulitea, or King +George, was a noted Bay of Islands chief named Whareumu. He was killed in +a fight with the Hokianga tribes, in March, 1828. (See appendix.)] + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +MAORI NON-PROGRESSIVENESS. + + +This anecdote proves that King George and his people possessed feelings +of honour and generosity, which, if properly cultivated, might lead to +the most happy results. From the length of time these people have been +known to the Europeans, it might naturally be expected that great changes +would have taken place in their habits, manners, arts, and manufactures; +but this is not the case. Their huts are of the same diminutive +proportions as described by Captain Cook; their clothing and mats, their +canoes and paddles, are precisely the same as when that navigator +described them. When they can obtain English tools, they use them in +preference to their own; still their work is not better done. The only +material change that has taken place is in their mode of warfare. + +The moment the New Zealanders became acquainted with the nature of +firearms, their minds were directed but to one point, namely, to become +possessed of them. After many ingenious and treacherous attempts to +obtain these oft-coveted treasures, and which, for the most part, ended +in their defeat, they had recourse to industry, and determined to create +commodities which they might fairly barter for these envied muskets. +Potatoes were planted, hogs were reared, and flax prepared, not for their +own use or comfort, but to exchange with the Europeans for firearms. +Their plans succeeded; and they have now fairly possessed themselves of +those weapons, which at first made us so formidable in their eyes; and as +they are in constant want of fresh supplies of ammunition, I feel +convinced it will always be their wish to be on friendly terms with us, +for the purpose of procuring these desirable stores. I have not heard of +a single instance in which they have turned these arms against us, though +they are often grossly insulted. + +In their combats with each other, firearms are used with dreadful effect. +The whole soul of a New Zealander seems absorbed in the thoughts of war; +every action of his life is influenced by it; and to possess weapons +which give him such a decided superiority over those who have only their +native implements of offence, he will sacrifice everything. The value +attached by them to muskets, and their ceaseless desire to possess them, +will prove a sufficient security to foreigners who enter their harbours, +or remain on their coasts; as I know, from experience, that the New +Zealanders will rather put up with injuries than run the risk of +offending those who manufacture and barter with them such inestimable +commodities. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +A MISSION SETTLEMENT. + + +A few days after my arrival in the Bay, I crossed to the opposite side, +to visit the Church missionary settlement, and to deliver a letter of +introduction I had to one of the members. Here, on a beautiful bank, with +a delightful beach in front, and the entrance of the bay open to them, +the clear and blue expanse of water speckled over with fertile islands, +reside these comfortable teachers of the Gospel. The name they have given +this spot is "Marsden Vale." They very soon gave us to understand they +did not wish for our acquaintance, and their coldness and inhospitality +(I must acknowledge) created in my mind a thorough dislike to them. The +object of the mission, as it was first planned, might have been attained, +and might have proved highly beneficial to the New Zealanders; but as it +is now conducted, no good result can be expected from it. Any man of +common sense must agree with me, that a savage can receive but little +benefit from having the abstruse points of the Gospel preached to him, if +his mind is not prepared to receive them. This is the plan adopted here; +and nothing will convince these enthusiasts that it is wrong, or induce +them to change it for one more agreeable to the dictates of reason. + +Upon inquiring who and what these men were, I found that the greater part +of them were hardy mechanics (not well-educated clergymen), whom the +benevolent and well-intentioned people of England had sent out in order +to teach the natives the importance of _different trades_--a most +judicious arrangement, and which ought to be the foundation of all +missions. What could be a more gratifying sight than groups of these +athletic savages, toiling at the anvil or the saw; erecting for +themselves substantial dwellings; thus leading them by degrees to know +and to appreciate the comforts resulting from peaceful, laborious, and +useful occupations? Then, while they felt sincere gratitude for services +rendered them, at their leisure hours, and on certain days, _these_ +missionaries should attempt to expound to them, in as simple a manner as +possible, the nature of revealed religion! + +In New Zealand, the "mechanic" missionary only carries on his trade till +he has every comfort around him--his house finished, his garden fenced, +and a strong stockade enclosing all, to keep off the "pagan" savages. +This done, then commences the easy task of preaching. They collect a few +ragged urchins of natives, whom they teach to read and write their own +language--the English tongue being forbidden; and when these children +return to their families, they are despised by them, as being effeminate +and useless. + +I once saw a sturdy blacksmith in the prime of life, sitting in the midst +of a group of savages, attempting to expound to them the mysteries of our +holy redemption--perplexing his own brains, as well as those of his +auditors, with the most incomprehensible and absurd opinions. How much +better would he have been employed in teaching them how to weld a piece +of iron, or to make a nail! + +What causes much disapprobation here, is the contemptuous manner in which +they treat their own countrymen, as they receive most of them on the +outside of their stockade fence. + +On our return from Marsden Vale, our savage friends laughed heartily at +us. They had warned us of the reception we should meet with; and their +delight at seeing us again formed a strange contrast to that of their +Christian teachers, whose inhospitable dwellings we determined never to +reenter. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +A VISIT FROM HONGI. + + +A few days after my visit to the missionaries, while we were busily +employed in constructing our huts, assisted by about fifty natives, on a +sudden a great commotion took place amongst them. Each left his work and +ran to his hut, and immediately returned armed with both musket and +cartouch box: apparently all the arms in the village were mustered, and +all seemed ready for immediate use. On inquiring into the cause of all +these war-like preparations, I was informed that Hongi and his chief men +were crossing the bay in several large war canoes; and though he was +considered as a friend and ally, yet, as he was a man of such desperate +ambition, and consummate cunning, it was considered necessary to receive +him under arms, which he might take either as a compliment, or as a proof +of how well they were aware of the guest they were receiving. + +This man, Hongi, was a most extraordinary character, and a person I had +long had a great curiosity to see, his daring and savage deeds having +often been the subject of conversation in New South Wales. In his own +country he was looked upon as invulnerable and invincible. In the year +1821 he had visited England, during which he had been honoured by having +a personal interview with George the Fourth, and had received from His +Majesty several valuable presents; amongst others, were a superb suit of +chain armour, and a splendid double-barrelled gun. From possessing these +arms, so far superior to any of his neighbours, he looked upon himself +as impossible to be conquered, and commenced a career of warfare and +destruction on all his enemies, and nearly exterminated them. His friends +called him "a god," and his enemies feared him as "a devil." Last year, +Hongi made war upon, and totally annihilated, the tribe who had fifteen +years previously attacked and murdered the crew of the Boyd. He had long +determined to take revenge for that treacherous action, as he always +styled himself "the friend of the English." After this, he removed his +residence, and took possession of the conquered district. But in this his +last battle he had to fight without his invulnerable coat of mail, his +slaves having stolen it and gone over with it to the enemy. His people +were now confirmed in their superstition respecting its being proof +against shot, by his having received during the combat a bullet in the +breast, from the effects of which he is fast sinking into the grave. His +companions related the following extraordinary anecdote concerning him +after he received this wound, which proves his great presence of mind. + +His party were retreating, and the enemy were charging him vigorously; +Hongi stood alone when he received the bullet; he did not fall +immediately, and the enemy were eagerly running up to despatch him, when +he roused all his energies, and shouted aloud for the two hundred chiefs, +who lay concealed, to rush forward and fall on. The foe, hearing this, +paused, when about a dozen chiefs, and indeed, as Hongi well knew, all +that he had, suddenly made their appearance. This caused a panic; they +turned about; the pursued became the pursuers, and nearly the whole tribe +were destroyed. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +INTERVIEW WITH THE GREAT MAORI CONQUEROR. + + +He landed about a mile from the village, and we lost no time in procuring +an interpreter, with whom we went instantly to pay our respects to this +celebrated conqueror. + +We found him and his party; his slaves preparing their morning repast. +The scene altogether was highly interesting. In a beautiful bay, +surrounded by high rocks and overhanging trees, the chiefs sat in mute +contemplation, their arms piled up in regular order on the beach. Hongi, +not only from his high rank (but in consequence of his wound being +toboo'd, or rendered holy), sat apart from the rest. Their richly +ornamented war canoes were drawn up on the strand; some of the slaves +were unlading stores, others were kindling fires. To me it almost seemed +to realise some of the passages of Homer, where he describes the wanderer +Ulysses and his gallant band of warriors. We approached the chief, and +paid our respects to him. He received us kindly, and with a dignified +composure, as one accustomed to receive homage. His look was emaciated; +but so mild was the expression of his features, that he would have been +the last man I should have imagined accustomed to scenes of bloodshed and +cruelty. But I soon remarked, that when he became animated in +conversation, his eyes sparkled with fire, and their expression changed, +demonstrating that it only required his passions to be roused to exhibit +him under a very different aspect. His wife and daughter were permitted +to sit close to him, to administer to his wants, no others being allowed +so to do, on account of his taboo. + +He was arrayed in a new blanket, which completely enveloped his figure, +leaving exposed his highly-tattooed face, and head profusely covered with +long, black, curling hair, adorned with a quantity of white feathers. He +was altogether a very fine study; and, with his permission, I made a +sketch of him, and also one including the whole group. Finding we were +newcomers, he asked us a variety of questions, and, among others, our +opinion of his country. His remarks were judicious and sensible, and he +seemed much pleased with our admiration of his territory. I produced a +bottle of wine that I had brought with me, and his wife supplied him with +a few glasses, which seemed to revive and animate him. + +We were then invited to join him in a trip in one of his canoes, in which +was placed a bed for him to recline upon; his wife seated herself close +to him, while his daughter, a very pretty, interesting girl about fifteen +years of age, took a paddle in her hand, which she used with the greatest +dexterity. I took the liberty of presenting her with a bracelet, with +which she seemed highly delighted; when Hongi, perceiving that I was in a +giving mood, pointed to his beard, and asked me for a razor. Fortunately, +I had put one in my pocket on setting out, and I now presented it to +him, by which gifts we continued on terms of great sociability and +friendship. After a pleasant cruise with this (to us) extraordinary +family, and contriving to make ourselves pretty well understood, we +returned about the close of the day, and landed at the bay. All the +natives were much delighted at our confidence in them, and we were +equally gratified by their hospitality. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +A MAORI WELCOME. + + +I was much amused with the punctilios used in the visit of ceremony paid +to King George. Hongi, accompanied by about a dozen of his chiefs, +advanced towards our settlement, leaving their guns and hatchets behind +them; as they approached, all our tribe discharged their pieces in the +air. When they met, all rubbed noses (a ceremony never to be dispensed +with on formal occasions). They were then conducted by King George to his +huts on the beach, and in the enclosure in front of them the warriors +squatted on the ground. Hongi, being tabooed, or under the immediate +protection of their Atua, or God, still sat apart. Then the mother of +George, called Tururo, or the Queen, and who is regarded quite as a sybil +by the whole tribe, approached Hongi with the greatest respect and +caution, and seated herself some paces from his feet. She then began, +with a most melancholy cadence (her eyes streaming with tears and fixed +upon the ground), the song of welcome. All their meetings of ceremony or +friendship begin with the shedding of copious floods of tears; and as +Hongi's visit was such an unhoped for and unexpected honour, so much +greater in proportion was the necessity for their lamentations. This +woeful song lasted half an hour, and all the assembly were soon in tears; +and though at first I was inclined to turn it into ridicule, I was soon +in the same state myself. The pathetic strain, and the scene altogether, +was most impressive. As the song proceeded, I was informed of the nature +of the subject, which was a theme highly calculated to affect all +present. She began by complimenting the wounded warrior, deploring the +incurable state of his wound, and regretting that God was wanting him, +and was about so soon to take him from his friends! Then she recounted +some of his most celebrated deeds of valour, naming and deploring the +number of his friends who had fallen bravely in the wars, and lamenting +that the enemies who had killed them were still living! This part seemed +to affect them powerfully; and when Tururo ceased her song (being quite +exhausted) they all rose, thus demonstrating their respect and +approbation. + +This was followed by a general attack upon the good things King George +had prepared for them. The slaves came flocking in, bearing baskets of +hot kumaras, potatoes, and fish. I observed their tears had not spoiled +their appetites; they ate voraciously. After having done great honour to +the feast, they all started on their feet for a dance, which lasted a +long while, and with which they concluded the evening. + +The dances of all savage nations are beautiful, but those of the New +Zealanders partake also of the horrible. The regularity of their +movements is truly astonishing; and the song, which always accompanies a +dance, is most harmonious. They soon work themselves up to a pitch of +frenzy; the distortions of their face and body are truly dreadful, and +fill the mind with horror. Love and war are the subjects of their songs +and dances; but the details of the latter passion are by far the most +popular among them. I was astonished to find that their women mixed in +the dance indiscriminately with the men, and went through all those +horrid gestures with seemingly as much pleasure as the warriors +themselves. + +The next morning I was awakened, at daybreak, by the most dismal sounds I +had ever heard. I started up, and found it proceeded from the tribes +parting with each other. They had divided themselves into little parties, +each forming a circle, and were crying most piteously, and cutting their +flesh as a cook would score pork for roasting. On such occasions each is +armed with a sharp shell, or, if he can possibly obtain so valuable a +prize, a piece of a broken glass bottle. All were streaming with tears +and blood, while Hongi and his friends embarked in their large and +richly-ornamented canoes, and sailed from our beach. After his departure, +I soon discovered that, notwithstanding their apparent affection, King +George and his friends were most happy their visitors had left them; and +that it was more the dread of Hongi's power, than love for him, that +induced them to treat him with such respect and homage. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +EXCURSIONS IN THE INTERIOR. + + +I made several excursions into the interior, and each confirmed me in the +good opinion I had formed of the natives. I felt myself quite safe +amongst them. There is a great peculiarity in rambling through this +country; namely, the total absence of quadrupeds. There are abundance of +birds, which are so numerous at times as almost to darken the air--many +of them possessing very sweet notes; and wild ducks, teal, etc., cover +the various streams. Wherever I went I did not discover any grass, almost +every part being covered either with fern or flax; the former yielding +the natives their principal article of food, and the latter their +clothing. To this dearth of animals may be attributed the chief cause of +their ferocity and propensity to cannibalism. + +In most uncivilised countries the natives use their arms against the wild +animals of the forest. The dangers and difficulties they encounter in +overcoming them form a kind of prelude to war, and perfect them in the +use of their weapons. The rifle of the North American Indian would never +be so much dreaded did he not depend upon its produce for his +subsistence. I have myself (during my travels through North America) had +many opportunities of witnessing the certain aim they take both with the +arrow and the bullet; while those in the southern parts of that vast +continent, who depend on taking the wild cattle, acquire, by constant +practice, an equal dexterity with the _lassoo_, which those who have not +witnessed it could scarcely imagine possible. The New Zealander, while +handling a musket, is quite in a state of trepidation; and though it is +his darling weapon he seems always afraid of it, and is never sure of his +aim till he is quite close to his object. I have mentioned this fact to +several Europeans who had accompanied various tribes to battle, and they +all informed me they made a sad bungling use of the musket; their aim +would be surer if they had large and ferocious animals to hunt or contend +with. There is another circumstance that operates against their acquiring +skill in the use of the gun: they are so fond of cleaning, scrubbing, and +taking them to pieces, that in a short time the locks become loose, the +screws are injured, and they are soon rendered entirely useless, to the +great surprise and dismay of their owners, who are constantly pestering +the Europeans by bringing them _sick_ muskets (as they call them) to look +at, and put to rights, and are quite surprised that we "cannot make them +well again." They cannot be made to comprehend that every white man does +not know how to make a musket, or, at least, to repair it. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +ENTERTAINED BY MAORI WOMEN. + + +On the 24th November we took our departure from the bay, as we had to +return to Hokianga, where we had left our brig; and it was only under a +promise of making a speedy return, and remaining longer with them, that +our savage friends would suffer us to leave them. We expected to reach +the Kerikeri River before night; but in this we were disappointed. It at +length became quite dark; and the ebb tide making against us, rendered +further advance impossible. We had to seek some place of shelter for the +night, and not a hut was visible. While we were debating on what was best +to be done, we observed a light from the shore, and made for it; but, it +being low water, our boat stuck fast in the slime long before we reached +the banks; we were, consequently, obliged to wade knee-deep through the +slippery mud. We soon discovered a party of women sitting round a fire +made in the midst of the swamp. They had come here for the purpose of +procuring shell-fish; and as they are never very fastidious about shelter +or dry beds, they had determined (according to their usual custom) to +pass the night where they had been occupied during the day. This sort of +bivouac I found excessively uncomfortable. The moment we were seated the +water began to ooze out an inch or two all round us. We sought in vain +for a dry place, for we were enveloped in darkness, and surrounded by +rushes and flags six or seven feet high; but, being very much fatigued, +we slept, notwithstanding the misery of a wet bed, with a cloud of fog +for curtains. I did not wake till one of the women gave me a good shake, +and informed me that the day was well up. They had prepared us a +breakfast of hot shell-fish, which they had caught the preceding day, and +they all seemed delighted by our eating heartily of them. As we had some +biscuits in our boat, we sent for them, and gave our "fair founders of +the feast" a share; and we were all very sociable and merry. When we left +them, as it was again low water, the women carried us to our boat, and +took their leave of us amidst peals of laughter. This was another proof +to me that the English are quite safe, though travelling unguarded, +amongst these people. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +LOADING SPARS AT HOKIANGA. + + +About nine the next morning we reached the Kerikeri River; and, it being +Sunday, the members of the mission met us on landing, and used all their +endeavours to prevent our travelling on that day; but, independent of the +urgent necessity of our reaching Hokianga, the captain of our vessel, who +was with us, being particularly anxious to return on board, we continued +our journey, and at night came to a bivouac in a dense wood, so that we +now had the luxury of stretching our weary limbs on dry ground. The next +day, as we journeyed towards the river, we fell in with all our old +friends, who inquired into the particulars of our adventures, and seemed +highly delighted at our return. + +We found "all right" on board the brig; but as she was chartered to go to +Tongataboo I and my friend Shand determined to remain at New Zealand till +her return. Our principal difficulty seemed to be which side of the +island we should make choice of for a dwelling-place. When it became +known to the natives that we intended to remain with them, several chiefs +came and offered us their protection; and each would have built us a +house, but we preferred making our sojourn at the Bay of Islands. We were +often at a loss how to evade the kind importunities of our savage hosts +without giving them offence. "Is not our country as good as +theirs?"--"Are you not as safe amongst us?"--"Are we not as willing and +as capable of protecting you as Shulitea?" These were the arguments they +used; and, finally, we were obliged to inform them that we had a friend +and countryman (Captain Duke) settled on the other side, who was +preparing a house for our reception. On being informed of this +circumstance they consented to part with us, though evidently with great +reluctance. + +While we lay here the ship Harmony, of London, Captain Middleton, arrived +from Sydney for a cargo of spars. So large a vessel entering the port put +the whole district into commotion; and when the chiefs understood the +nature of her wants, and had seen the fine double-barrelled guns and +store of powder to be given as payment for the wished-for freight, they +hastened to the woods, and the axe was soon laid to the roots of the +trees. I saw them pursuing their laborious employ with alacrity. In a few +days a sufficient number of fine logs came floating down the river to +load the ship, and they were all cleared in a workmanlike manner, ready +to stow away. The chief things to induce these people to work are +firearms and powder; these are two stimulants to their industry which +never fail. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +DEATH OF A GREAT CHIEF. + + +A few days after our return to Hokianga we received intelligence that A +Rowa, the father of Mooetara, and the eldest chief in the district, was +dead. These deaths, when they occur among men of rank, are generally +accompanied by some horrible scenes of butchery among their slaves--a +common custom among all savages, but practised here (I was informed) with +peculiar cruelty. We went on shore to witness the ceremony of A Rowa's +lying in state, hoping at the same time that our presence might induce +them to dispense with some of those barbarous cruelties which generally +accompany their funeral rites. We had, indeed, every reason to think we +had conjectured rightly, for nothing of the kind took place; which was +considered by all as a circumstance somewhat remarkable. A great +concourse of savages had assembled all round the village of the deceased +chief, and there was a tremendous firing of muskets, but no particular +marks of grief. I spoke to Mooetara, and requested, as a favour, if it +were not breaking through their established rules, that he would conduct +me to the body of his father. He accordingly led me to the outside of the +village; and under a rude hut (constructed for the purpose) lay the body +of the deceased chief, closely covered up with mats, leaving only part of +the face and head exposed; in his hair was stuck a profusion of long +white feathers, by way of ornament. Two women (whom I understood were his +wives) sat close to the corpse; they were painted all over with red +ochre, and seemed to perform the parts of chief mourners. These kept up a +low moaning noise, and occasionally whisked off the flies from the face +of the deceased. The women, the corpse, the hut, and the ground for some +space round them, were all strictly tapued. Some bundles of fish, and +some calabashes filled with oil, were left close by the body, intended +for his consumption during his passage to the next world. + +I imagine that one reason of no outrage having been committed during this +solemn occasion was our brig being on the point of sailing, and previous +to her departure a great deal of traffic was expected to be carried on +with the natives, for there was still a considerable quantity of muskets +undisposed of; and I think, in this instance, avarice overcame filial +affection--the minds of the chief's family being so intent upon obtaining +good bargains, that they had not time to sit and mourn over their +departed parent, nor to work themselves up into a paroxysm of passion +sufficiently violent to cause them to murder their slaves. This afforded +me a convincing proof that as soon as they are occupied by commerce, or +the useful arts, their barbarous rites will gradually be discontinued, +and will speedily cease altogether. + +Our brig having sailed, we were again alone with these wild yet +interesting people. We expected our stay might be about six months, and +had provided a stock-in-trade, consisting of a barrel of powder, half a +dozen muskets, some fish-hooks, and a quantity of tobacco. Everything we +possessed we delivered into the hands of the natives, who accounted to +us for the stock thus entrusted to their management with the most +scrupulous exactness. Nothing can be fairer than their mode of bartering +with the Europeans; the prices are fixed; ten large hogs, or 120 baskets +of potatoes (about a ton and a-half), are given for a musket; for small +articles, such as fish, Indian corn, or fruits, the ready money are +fish-hooks and tobacco. As we were now about to become inhabitants of New +Zealand, it became necessary that we should be well acquainted with the +particulars of their methods of "doing business," and that we should +apply ourselves diligently to the study of the language, which we +acquired much more readily than I had anticipated. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +BRUTAL MURDER OF A WIFE. + + +A few days after the departure of the brig I witnessed a specimen of +their summary method of executing justice. A chief, resident in the +village, had proof of the infidelity of one of his wives; and, being +perfectly sure of her guilt, he took his patoo-patoo (or stone hatchet) +and proceeded to his hut, where this wretched woman was employed in +household affairs. Without mentioning the cause of his suspicion, or once +upbraiding her, he deliberately aimed a blow at her head, which killed +her on the spot; and, as she was a slave, he dragged the body to the +outside of the village, and there left it to be devoured by the dogs. The +account of this transaction was soon brought to us, and we proceeded to +the place to request permission to bury the body of the murdered woman, +which was immediately granted. Accordingly, we procured a couple of +slaves, who assisted us to carry the corpse down to the beach, where we +interred it in the most decent manner we could. + +This was the second murder I was very nearly a witness to since my +arrival; and the indifference with which each had been spoken of induced +me to believe that such barbarities were events of frequent occurrence; +yet the manners of all seemed kind and gentle towards each other; but +infidelity in a wife is never forgiven here; and, in general, if the +lover can be taken, he also is sacrificed along with the adulteress. +Truth obliges me to confess that, notwithstanding these horrors staring +them in the face, they will, if opportunity offers, indulge in an +intrigue. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +ANOTHER JOURNEY TO BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +As there were two roads across to the Bay of Islands, and I was anxious +to see as much of the country as possible, I determined that my second +journey should be by the longest route. I set off, accompanied only by a +native boy to carry a small portmanteau and to serve me as a guide. As, +on my former journey, we travelled many miles through thick tangled +forests, fatiguing beyond description. In the midst of our toilsome +progress, night frequently overtook us; then, by means of my +fowling-piece, I procured a light, the boy made a fire, and we passed the +night in this vast wilderness, far from the habitation of any human +being! At daybreak we resumed our journey, and at length (about ten +o'clock) we emerged from the wood, and entered upon extensive plains. +These were not naked deserts, similar to the ones I had passed through on +my former route, but were diversified with bush and brake, with a number +of small villages scattered in various directions. At mid-day we arrived +at what in New Zealand is considered a town of great size and importance, +called Ty-a-my. It is situated on the sides of a beautiful hill, the top +surmounted by a pa, in the midst of a lonely and extensive plain, covered +with plantations of Indian corn, Kumara and potatoes. This is the +principal inland settlement, and, in point of quiet beauty and +fertility, it equalled any place I had ever seen in the various countries +I have visited. Its situation brought forcibly to my remembrance the +scenery around Canterbury. + +We found the village totally deserted, all the inhabitants being employed +in their various plantations; they shouted to us as we passed, thus +bidding us welcome, but did not leave their occupations to receive us. To +view the cultivated parts of this country from an eminence a person might +easily imagine himself in a civilised land; for miles around the village +of Ty-a-my nothing but beautiful green fields present themselves to the +eye. The exact rows in which they plant their Indian corn would do credit +to a first-rate English farmer, and the way in which they prepare the +soil is admirable. The greatest deficiency which I observed in the +country around me was the total absence of fences; and this defect +occasions the natives a great deal of trouble, which might very easily be +avoided. Hogs are the principal part of their wealth, with which, at all +times, they can traffic with vessels touching at their ports. These +animals, consequently, are of the utmost importance to them; but during +the growth of their crops, the constant watching the hogs require to keep +them out of the plantations consumes more time than would effectually +fence in their whole country; but I have no doubt, as they already begin +to follow our advice and adopt our plans, they will soon see the utility +of fencing in their land. I have at various times held many conversations +with different chiefs on this subject, all of whom have acknowledged the +propriety of so doing. + +A few miles after leaving this beautiful village we came to a spot +covered with heaps of cinders and hillocks of volcanic matter. I found +all these hillocks small craters, but none of them, burning; and for +miles our road lay through ashes and lava. These fires must have been +extinguished many ages since, as there is not the slightest tradition +among any of the natives of their ever having been burning. + +After passing over this lava, our journey lay through a very swampy +country, intersected with streams. I got completely wearied with +stripping to wade through them, so that at length I plunged in clothes +and all. At the close of a most fatiguing day's march, we arrived in +sight of the bay, having travelled over an extent of about fifty miles +since the morning! No canoe being in sight, and we being too distant to +make signals to our brig, we had to pass another night in bivouac on a +part of the beach called Waitangi; and as it did not rain we slept pretty +comfortably. The next morning I procured a canoe, and went on board our +vessel. + +The day following the brig took her final departure from New Zealand, and +we bade farewell to Captain Kent. We now formally placed ourselves under +the protection of King George, who seemed highly pleased with his charge; +and in a few days three good houses were ready for our reception--one for +ourselves, a second for our stores, and a third for our servants. But our +pleasant prospects were soon obscured by a circumstance totally +unexpected, which placed us in a most critical situation, and which we +had every reason to fear would lead to our total destruction. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +VISIT OF A WAR PARTY. + + +I was roused one morning at daybreak by my servant running in with the +intelligence that a great number of war canoes were crossing the bay. As +King George had told us but the evening before that he expected a visit +from Ta-ri-ah, a chief of the tribe called Ngapuhis, whose territory lay +on the opposite side of the bay, and given us to understand that Ta-ri-ah +was a man not to be trusted, and therefore feared some mischief might +happen if he really came, the sight of these war canoes naturally caused +us considerable alarm, and we sincerely wished that the visit was over. + +We dressed ourselves with the utmost expedition, and walked down to the +beach. The landing of these warriors was conducted with a considerable +degree of order, and could I have divested myself of all ideas of danger +I should have admired the sight excessively. All our New Zealand +friends--the tribe of Shulitea--were stripped naked, their bodies were +oiled, and all were completely armed; their muskets were loaded, their +cartouch boxes were fastened round their waists, and their patoo-patoos +were fixed to their wrists. Their hair was tied up in a tight knot at the +top of their heads, beautifully ornamented with feathers of the +albatross. As the opposite party landed, ours all crouched on the ground, +their eyes fixed on their visitors, and perfectly silent. When the +debarkation was completed I observed the chief, Ta-ri-ah, put himself at +their head, and march towards us with his party formed closely and +compactly, and armed with muskets and paddles. When they came very near +they suddenly stopped. Our party continued still mute, with their +firelocks poised ready for use. For the space of a few minutes all was +still, each party glaring fiercely on the other; and they certainly +formed one of the most beautiful and extraordinary pictures I had ever +beheld. The foreground was formed by a line of naked savages, each +resting on one knee, with musket advanced, their gaze fixed on the +opposite party, their fine, broad, muscular backs contrasting with the +dark foliage in front, and catching the gleam of the rising sun. The +strangers were clothed in the most grotesque manner imaginable--some +armed, some naked, some with long beards, others were painted all over +with red ochre; every part of each figure was quite still, except the +rolling and glaring of their eyes on their opponents. The background was +formed by the beach, and a number of their beautiful war canoes dancing +on the waves; while, in the distance, the mountains on the opposite side +of the bay were just tinged with the varied and beautiful colours of the +sun, then rising in splendour from behind them. + +The stillness of this extraordinary scene did not last long. The Ngapuhis +commenced a noisy and discordant song and dance, yelling, jumping, and +making the most hideous faces. This was soon answered by a loud shout +from our party, who endeavoured to outdo the Ngapuhis in making horrible +distortions of their countenances; then succeeded another dance from our +visitors, after which our friends made a rush, and in a sort of rough +joke set them running. Then all joined in a pell-mell sort of encounter, +in which numerous hard blows were given and received; then all the party +fired their pieces in the air, and the ceremony of landing was thus +deemed completed. They then approached each other, and began rubbing +noses; and those who were particular friends cried and lamented over each +other. + +The slaves now commenced the labour of making fires to cook the morning +meal, while the chiefs, squatting down, formed a ring, or, rather, an +oblong circle, on the ground; then one at a time rose up, and made long +speeches, which they did in a manner peculiar to themselves. The speaker, +during his harangue, keeps running backwards and forwards within the +oblong space, using the most violent but appropriate gesticulation; so +expressive, indeed, of the subject on which he is speaking, that a +spectator who does not understand their language can form a tolerable +idea as to what the affair is then under debate. The orator is never +interrupted in his speech; but, when he finishes and sits down, another +immediately rises up and takes his place, so that all who choose have an +opportunity of delivering their sentiments, after which the assembly +breaks up. + +Though the meeting of these hostile tribes had thus ended more amicably +than King George and his party could have expected, it was easily to be +perceived that the Ngapuhis were determined on executing some atrocity or +depredations before their return; they accordingly pretended to recollect +some old offence committed by the English settlers at the other end of +the beach. They proceeded thither, and first attacked and broke open the +house of a blacksmith, and carried off every article it contained. They +then marched to the residence of an English captain (who was in England), +and plundered it of everything that could be taken away, and afterwards +sent word they intended to return to our end of the beach. Our fears were +greatly increased by finding that our friends were not sufficiently +strong to protect us from the superior force of the Ngapuhis, and our +chief, George, being himself (we supposed) conscious of his inability, +had left us to depend upon our own resources. + + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +BURNED OUT OF HOUSE AND HOME. + + +We now called a council of war of all the Europeans settled here; and it +was unanimously resolved that we should protect and defend our houses and +property, and fortify our position in the best way we could. Captain Duke +had in his possession four twelve-pounders, and these we brought in front +of the enclosure in which our huts were situated, and were all entirely +employed in loading them with round and grape shot, and had made them all +ready for action, when, to our consternation and dismay, we found we had +a new and totally unexpected enemy to contend with. By some accident one +of our houses was in flames. Our situation was now perilous in the +extreme. The buildings, the work of English carpenters, were constructed +of dry rushes and well-seasoned wood, and this was one of a very +respectable size, and we had hoped, in a very few days, would be finished +fit for our removing into. + +For some seconds we stood in mute amazement, not knowing to which point +to direct our energies. As the cry of "fire" was raised, groups of +natives came rushing from all directions upon our devoted settlement, +stripping off their clothes, and yelling in the most discordant pitch of +voice. I entered the house, and brought out one of my trunks, but on +attempting to return a second time I found it filled with naked savages, +tearing everything to pieces, and carrying away whatever they could lay +their hands upon. The fierce raging of the flames, the heat from the +fire, the yells of the men, and the shrill cries of the women, formed, +altogether, a horrible combination; added to all this was the +mortification of seeing all our property carried off in different +directions, without the least possibility of our preventing it. The tribe +of the Ngapuhis (who, when the fire began, were at the other end of the +beach) left their operations in that quarter and poured down upon us to +share in the general plunder. Never shall I forget the countenance of the +chief, as he rushed forward at the head of his destroying crew! He was +called "The Giant," and he was well worthy of the name, being the tallest +and largest man I had ever seen; he had an immense bushy black beard, and +grinned exultingly when he saw the work of destruction proceeding with +such rapidity, and kept shouting loudly to his party to excite them to +carry off all they could. + +A cask containing seventy gallons of rum now caught fire and blew up with +a terrible explosion; and, the wind freshening considerably, huge volumes +of smoke and flame burst out in every direction. Two of our houses were +so completely enveloped that we had given up all hopes of saving them. +The third, which was a beautifully carved tapued one, some little +distance from the others, and which we had converted into a store and +magazine, was now the only object of our solicitude and terror. For, +besides the valuable property of various kinds which were deposited +within it, it contained several barrels of gunpowder! It was in vain we +attempted to warn the frantic natives to retire from the vicinity of this +danger. At length we persuaded about a dozen of the most rational to +listen while we explained to them the cause of our alarm; and they +immediately ascended to the roof, where, with the utmost intrepidity and +coolness, they kept pouring water over the thatch, thus lessening the +probability of an immediate explosion. About this time we noticed the +reappearance of King George, which circumstance rekindled our hopes. He +was armed with a thick stick, which he laid heavily on the backs of such +of his subjects as were running away with our property, thus forcing them +to relinquish their prizes, and to lay them down before his own mansion, +where all was safe. By this means a great deal was recollected. The fire +was now nearly extinguished; but our two really tolerably good houses +were reduced to a heap of smoking ruins, and the greater part of what +belonged to us was taken away by the Ngapuhis. + +This calamity had made us acquainted with another of their barbarous +customs, which is, whenever a misfortune happens to a community, or an +individual, every person, even the friends of his own tribe, fall upon +and strip him of all he has remaining. As an unfortunate fish, when +struck by a harpoon, is instantly surrounded and devoured by his +companions, so in New Zealand, when a chief is killed, his former friends +plunder his widow and children; and they, in revenge, ill-use and even +murder their slaves--thus one misfortune gives birth to various +cruelties. During the fire, our allies proved themselves the most adroit +and active thieves imaginable, though previously to that event we had +never lost an article, although everything we possessed was open to them. + +When we questioned them about our property, they frankly told us where it +was; and, after some difficulty in settling the amount of its ransom, we +got most of our things back again, with the exception of such as had been +carried off by the Ngapuhis. + +Upon the cruelty of this custom I shall make no comments. Probably I +should have remained in ignorance of this savage law, had I not had the +misfortune to become its victim. + +By redeeming from the natives what they had purloined from the fire, we +had restored to us some of our boxes, desks, and clothes; but all our +little comforts towards housekeeping were irretrievably lost. When the +fire was over we received a visit from one of the missionaries, who made +us a cold offer of assistance. We accepted a little tea, sugar and some +few articles of crockery from them; but, although they knew we stood +there houseless, amongst a horde of savages, they never offered us the +shelter of their roofs. I am very sure that had the calamity befallen +them, we should immediately have offered our huts, and shared with them +everything we possessed. Here was an opportunity of practically showing +the "pagans" (as they termed the New Zealanders) the great Christian +doctrine of "doing to others as we would they should do unto us." I must +acknowledge I was sometimes mortified at being obliged to sleep (three of +us huddled up close together) in a small New Zealand hut, filled with +filth and vermin of all kinds, while at only two miles' distance from us +stood a neat village, abounding in every comfort that a bountiful British +public could provide; and we, members of that community, and, indeed, +partly contributors to the funds for its support. + +The high state of excitement into which the savages had been thrown by +the late conflagration gradually subsided, and as we had escaped the +dreaded calamity of our magazine blowing up, we began to look with +calmness on our desolate condition, and draw comfort from thinking how +much worse we might have been circumstanced than we then were. I hope our +distress may prove a benefit to future sojourners in this country, by +showing them the great importance of forming a proper magazine for +powder. The agonies I suffered in contemplating the destruction which six +barrels of powder, each of an hundredweight, would cause amongst a mob of +several hundred naked savages, it is impossible to imagine! + +King George, as well as all his people, were most anxious to build us a +new habitation entirely themselves. They requested us to give them the +dimensions of the various dwellings, and said we should have no further +trouble about them. A party accordingly proceeded to the bush to collect +materials. They first formed the skeleton of a cottage containing three +rooms, with slight sticks, firmly tied together with strips of flax. +While this was in progress, another party was collecting rushes (which +grow plentifully in the neighbourhood, called Ra-poo). These they spread +in the sun for twenty-four hours, when they considered them sufficiently +dry. They then thatched every part of the house, which for neatness and +strength was equal to anything I had ever seen. The doors and windows we +employed our carpenter to make, these being luxuries quite beyond the +comprehension of the natives. We were thus tolerably well lodged again; +and our time passed on tranquilly, almost every day developing some fresh +trait of character amongst these children of nature. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +A HOSTILE DEMONSTRATION. + + +I went to reside for a short time at a village about half a mile distant, +where there was a pretty good house vacant. It was called Ma-to-we, and +belonged to a chief named Atoi, a relation of George's, but a much +younger man. His power was not so great, and he was every way subject to +the authority of the tribe under whose protection I had placed myself. +One morning, at daybreak, we were roused by the hasty approach of King +George and all his warriors towards Ma-to-we. All were fully equipped for +war, and each countenance looked fierce and wild. Our late misfortunes +having rendered us more than usually anxious, this hostile appearance +gave us considerable alarm. We left our house to inquire the reason +thereof, and saw George and his followers enter the village, pull down +several fences, fire a few muskets in the air, dance a most hideous dance +of defiance, and then depart; but not one word of explanation could we +obtain from him. In the course of the morning, however, the women +acquainted us with the cause of this mysterious proceeding, which +determined me to remove my things back again to George's village of +Kororarika as soon as possible. + +The affair was simply this: Atoi had two wives. During the time of our +visit to his village, he was absent, and had entrusted these women to the +care of his brother; but he, instead of being faithful to the trust +reposed in him, had actually seduced one of them. This circumstance came +to the knowledge of George, and he, feeling for the honour of his absent +friend, immediately proceeded to the village, and thus gave the parties +warning that he was fully aware of the nature of their proceedings. He +had also dispatched a messenger to Atoi, to inform him of his disgrace, +and to request his immediate return. In the course of the day it was +expected he would arrive, and bring with him a strong party of friends, +all burning with revenge, and eager to punish his brother for his +unnatural perfidy. It was thought that unless George interfered, much +bloodshed might ensue; and it may readily be imagined how anxious we were +that this dreaded meeting should be over; yet I (for one) had determined +that I would be a witness of it. Therefore, when word was brought to me +that Atoi was crossing the bay, I hastened down to the beach. There I +found all parties assembled from both villages. George and his followers, +who were to act as mediators, sat immediately in front of the place of +landing; behind them were Atoi's brother and all his partizans; and in +the rear were all the women and children, with about a dozen white faces +scattered amongst them. The scene was picturesque and exceedingly +interesting. It was near the close of a lovely summer's day--the sun, +fast sinking towards the horizon, threw a warm and mellow glow over the +wide expanse of the far-spreading bay, whose smooth waters were only +disturbed by the approaching canoe cutting its foamy way. It was crowded +with naked warriors, urging their rapid course towards the shore; and we +heard the loud and furious song of the chief, animating his friends to +exertion; we saw his frantic gestures, as he stood in the centre of his +canoe, brandishing his weapons. As they came near the place of landing, +George ran into the stream, and as the canoe touched the shore, attacked +Atoi, but in a playful manner, splashing water over him. Thus irritated, +Atoi jumped on land, and, with a double-barrelled musket in his hand, ran +towards his brother, and doubtless would have killed him on the spot, had +he not been prevented. I now saw the advantage of George and his party +being present. He and three of his subjects seized upon Atoi, and tried +to wrest the weapon from his hands, which if they had been able to +effect, a mortal combat could not take place, such being the custom here. +Atoi was a very powerful man of about thirty, and those who attacked him +had a most difficult task; twice he broke from them; and I then watched +the countenance of his brother, which was perfectly cool and collected, +though the firelock was in readiness, and the finger on the trigger, +which might despatch him instantly. All parties sat perfectly quiet +during the desperate struggle; one of the barrels of Atoi's piece went +off, and the contents flew amongst us, without, however, doing any +material injury; and, finally, the musket was wrested out of his hands. +He then sat still for about twenty minutes, to recover his breath, when +he seized a club and rushed upon his brother (for mortal weapons were now +prohibited). The brother started up, armed in the same manner; some heavy +blows passed between them; when, having thrown aside their clubs, they +grappled each other firmly, and a dreadful struggle ensued. As they were +both completely naked, their hair was the only thing to take hold by; but +being long, thick, and strong, it afforded a firm grasp, and they +committed desperate havoc on each other's persons. At this period of the +fight their poor old mother, who was quite blind, came forward to try and +separate the combatants; the sister and younger brothers now followed her +example; and, finally, the fair and frail cause of all this commotion. + +The brothers, having completely exhausted their strength, were easily +separated; and as their friends had carefully removed all weapons out of +their reach, they of course were deprived of the means of injuring each +other. The members of Atoi's family, together with a few friends, now sat +down in a circle, to converse and consult on the affair. Atoi's wife +totally denied the charge, and protested her innocence, and many +circumstances were brought forward to corroborate her statements. The +husband at length was satisfied, and all parties were reconciled. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +THE LAW OF RETALIATION. + + +This affair was scarcely terminated, when we found that another of a +still more serious nature was likely to arise from it and would threaten +the peace of both villages. When King George sent his messenger to inform +Atoi of the infidelity of his wife, the infuriated husband assaulted the +man, and it was rumoured that he had killed him. This was an offence not +to be forgiven, and George was so exasperated by it that he vowed he +would exterminate the whole of Atoi's tribe. A native, however, arrived +with the intelligence that the man was not dead, but only wounded. This +did not seem to allay George's feelings of resentment, and he instantly +made great preparations for war. When our anxiety was wound up to the +utmost, we were greatly astonished to see Atoi and all his friends +approach our settlement, totally unarmed. George went out to meet them, +looking so full of rage that I thought Atoi stood but a slight chance for +his life. After a great deal of violent pantomimic action and grimace, +the apology offered by Atoi was accepted, and the visit was concluded by +a grand war-dance and sham fight performed in their best manner. King +George, in the fulness of his heart at this complete restoration of +friendship, gave a great feast of kumaras and fish, to which we added +some tobacco; and the whole of the party seated themselves by each other +with the utmost sociality--a convincing proof that animosity is not long +an inmate of their breasts. + +I took every opportunity of inquiring into the nature of their laws and +mode of government, and I found that, in general, their method of +redressing wrongs was very summary, and that their ideas of what was +strictly just were, for the most part, simple and equitable. For any +theft, or offence of that sort, committed by one tribe on another, the +parties are called to instant account. If one native takes from another +any part of his possessions, the party injured has a right to retaliate, +and the party retaliated upon must not make the slightest resistance. We +ourselves experienced a proof of this. Some part of our property, which +we supposed had been destroyed by our late fire, we had been told was to +be found in the hut of a neighbouring chief. We one day took advantage of +his absence, searched the hut ourselves, and discovered our things +carefully deposited therein. Thus assured of the fact, we laid our +complaint before King George, who, after hearing our story to the end, +replied, "Well, my friends, you must go to the hut and take away all your +property, and whatever else you may find, which you may think sufficient +payment for the injury you have received." We accordingly proceeded to +the chief's dwelling, whom we found standing at his door. We charged him +with having robbed us, and entered the house to seize our property. He +held down his head, and seemed ashamed and overpowered at this discovery. +He did not attempt to vindicate his conduct, but quietly allowed us not +only to take away all that had belonged to us, but likewise a musket and +double-barrelled gun, which he concluded he had lost for ever. These we +had only taken away temporarily to deter him from theft in future, for a +few days after we brought them back to him, to his infinite delight and +astonishment. + +I was frequently shocked during my residence in this country by the +number of accidents which continually happened to the natives from +gunpowder, and not even the saddest experience could render them more +careful. We were doubtful of the strength of a French fowling-piece we +had, so we loaded it to the muzzle and discharged it, in order to prove +it. Some young chiefs, who saw us do this (approving of this method), as +soon as they returned home loaded a musket in the same manner, and then +discharged it; but not managing the affair as we did--by means of a +string fastened to the trigger--the piece burst, and mangled two of them +dreadfully, and we got greatly blamed for showing them what was +considered so bad an example. + +A few months since a native came from the interior driving a quantity of +pigs to barter for powder; he obtained several pounds' weight, and set +off to return home. On his journey he passed the night in a hut, and for +safety put the bag of powder under his head as a pillow; and as a New +Zealander always sleeps with a fire close to him, the consequence was, in +the course of the night the fire communicated to the powder, and +destroyed the man and the whole of his family, who were journeying with +him. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +A WAR EXPEDITION AND A CANNIBAL FEAST. + + +Last year a chief, and cousin of King George, named Pomare, was defeated +and killed by the people of the Thames, and George was now resolved to +revenge his death. This determination having become known, we had a +constant succession of visitors, and a considerable number of blows, +scratches, and rubbing noses were the consequence. Our beach presented a +most interesting and busy scene. A dozen superb war canoes were lying +ready to convey the forces; and, considering their limited means, the +solidity of their structure and the carved work on them are surprising. +None but men of rank are allowed to work upon them, and they labour like +slaves. Some canoes were to be lengthened; others patched; others were +condemned to be broken up, and the fragments taken to complete the new +ones. Every morning we were awakened by the sound of the hammer and saw, +and they were much gratified by our walking down to their dockyard to +observe the progress they made, and by giving our opinions of their work. +They thankfully received any hint we gave them as to better methods of +completing or proceeding with their operations. Here were carvers, +painters, caulkers, and sailmakers, all working in their different +departments with great good humour and industry. Some of their vessels +were eighty feet long, and were entirely covered with beautiful +carving. Their form was light and delicate, and if their intentions were +hostile towards us, they would be very formidable alongside any merchant +man. If our Government should determine to colonise any part of New +Zealand, they would find the natives hardy and willing assistants, and +very different from the natives of New South Wales. + +[Illustration: Maori War Expedition (With Mission boat accompanying +it.)] + +As their canoes were ready for launching, they ran them off the beach, +jumped into them, and scudded across the bay with an almost incredible +swiftness. When it is considered that in each canoe were seated eighty +stout young men, each with a large paddle in his hand propelling the +vessel forward, the velocity with which she flew may be imagined! It was +in the midst of scenes like these that we were passing our time, and I +had just become delighted with the appearance of innocence and industry +so continually displayed by these people, when I was called upon to +witness a sight which exhibited their character in its worst light, and +confirmed all my horrible suspicions regarding their alleged cannibalism. + +The New Zealanders have been long charged with cannibalism; but as no +person of importance or celebrity had actually been a witness to the +disgusting act, in pity to our nature such relations have been +universally rejected, and much has been written to prove the +non-existence of so hideous a propensity. It was my lot to behold it in +all its horrors! + +One morning, about eleven o'clock, after I had just returned from a long +walk, Captain Duke informed me he had heard, from very good authority +(though the natives wished it to be kept a profound secret), that in the +adjoining village a female slave, named Matowe, had been put to death, +and that the people were at that very time preparing her flesh for +cooking. At the same time he reminded me of a circumstance which had +taken place the evening before. Atoi had been paying us a visit, and, +when going away, he recognised a girl whom he said was a slave that had +run away from him; he immediately seized hold of her, and gave her in +charge to some of his people. The girl had been employed in carrying wood +for us; Atoi's laying claim to her had caused us no alarm for her life, +and we had thought no more on the subject; but now, to my surprise and +horror, I heard this poor girl was the victim they were preparing for the +oven! Captain Duke and myself were resolved to witness this dreadful +scene. We therefore kept our information as secret as possible, well +knowing that if we had manifested our wishes they would have denied the +whole affair. We set out, taking a circuitous route towards the village, +and, being well acquainted with the road, we came upon them suddenly, and +found them in the midst of their abominable ceremonies. + +On a spot of rising ground, just outside the village, we saw a man +preparing a native oven, which is done in the following simple manner:--A +hole is made in the ground, and hot stones are put within it, and then +all is covered up close. As we approached, we saw evident signs of the +murder which had been perpetrated; bloody mats were strewed around, and a +boy was standing by them actually laughing: he put his finger to his +head, and then pointed towards a bush. I approached the bush, and there +discovered a human head. My feelings of horror may be imagined as I +recognised the features of the unfortunate girl I had seen forced from +our village the preceding evening! + +We ran towards the fire, and there stood a man occupied in a way few +would wish to see. He was preparing the four-quarters of a human body for +a feast; the large bones, having been taken out, were thrown aside, and +the flesh being compressed, he was in the act of forcing it into the +oven. While we stood transfixed by this terrible sight, a large dog, +which lay before the fire, rose up, seized the bloody head, and walked +off with it into the bushes, no doubt to hide it there for another meal! +The man completed his task with the most perfect composure, telling us, +at the same time, that the repast would not be ready for some hours! + +Here stood Captain Duke and myself, both witnesses of a scene which many +travellers have related, and their relations have invariably been treated +with contempt; indeed, the veracity of those who had the temerity to +relate such incredible events has been everywhere questioned. In this +instance it was no warrior's flesh to be eaten; there was no enemy's +blood to drink, in order to infuriate them. They had no revenge to +gratify; no plea could they make of their passions having been roused by +battle, nor the excuse that they eat their enemies to perfect their +triumph. This was an action of unjustifiable cannibalism. Atoi, the +chief, who had given orders for this cruel feast, had only the night +before sold us four pigs for a few pounds of powder; so he had not even +the excuse of want of food. After Captain Duke and myself had consulted +with each other, we walked into the village, determining to charge Atoi +with his brutality. + +Atoi received us in his usual manner; and his handsome, open countenance +could not be imagined to belong to so savage a monster as he had proved +himself to be. I shuddered at beholding the unusual quantity of potatoes +his slaves were preparing to eat with this infernal banquet. We talked +coolly with him on the subject, for, as we could not prevent what had +taken place, we were resolved to learn, if possible, the whole +particulars. Atoi at first tried to make us believe he knew nothing about +it, and that it was only a meal for his slaves; but we had ascertained it +was for himself and his favourite companions. After various endeavours to +conceal the fact, Atoi frankly owned that he was only waiting till the +cooking was completed to partake of it. He added that, knowing the horror +we Europeans held these feasts in, the natives were always most anxious +to conceal them from us, and he was very angry that it had come to our +knowledge; but, as he had acknowledged the fact, he had no objection to +talk about it. He told us that human flesh required a greater number of +hours to cook than any other; that if not done enough it was very tough, +but when sufficiently cooked it was as tender as paper. He held in his +hand a piece of paper, which he tore in illustration of his remark. He +said the flesh then preparing would not be ready till next morning; but +one of his sisters whispered in my ear that her brother was deceiving us, +as they intended feasting at sunset. + +We inquired why and how he had murdered the poor girl. He replied that +running away from him to her own relations was her only crime. He then +took us outside his village, and showed us the post to which she had been +tied, and laughed to think how he had cheated her: "For," said he, "I +told her I only intended to give her a flogging; but I fired, and shot +her through the heart!" My blood ran cold at this relation, and I looked +with feelings of horror at the savage while he related it. Shall I be +credited when I again affirm that he was not only a handsome young man, +but mild and genteel in his demeanour? He was a man we had admitted to +our table, and was a general favourite with us all; and the poor victim +to his bloody cruelty was a pretty girl of about sixteen years of age! + +While listening to this frightful detail, we felt sick almost to +fainting. We left Atoi, and again strolled towards the spot where this +disgusting mess was cooking. Not a native was now near it: a hot, fetid +steam kept occasionally bursting from the smothered mass; and the same +dog we had seen with the head now crept from beneath the bushes, and +sneaked towards the village. To add to the gloominess of the whole, a +large hawk rose heavily from the very spot where the poor victim had been +cut in pieces. My friend and I sat gazing on this melancholy place; it +was a lowering, gusty day, and the moaning of the wind through the +bushes, as it swept round the hill on which we were, seemed in unison +with our feelings. + +After some time spent in contemplating the miserable scene before us, +during which we gave full vent to the most passionate exclamations of +disgust, we determined to spoil this intended feast. This resolution +formed, we rose to execute it. I ran off to our beach, leaving Duke on +guard, and, collecting all the white men I could, I informed them of what +had happened, and asked them if they would assist in destroying the oven +and burying the remains of the girl. They consented, and each having +provided himself with a shovel or a pickaxe, we repaired in a body to +the spot. Atoi and his friends had by some means been informed of our +intention, and they came out to prevent it. He used various threats to +deter us, and seemed highly indignant; but as none of his followers +appeared willing to come to blows, and seemed ashamed that such a +transaction should have been discovered by us, we were permitted by them +to do as we chose. We accordingly dug a tolerably deep grave; then we +resolutely attacked the oven. On removing the earth and leaves, the +shocking spectacle was presented to our view--the four quarters of a +human body half roasted. During our work clouds of steam enveloped us, +and the disgust created by our task was almost overpowering. We collected +all the parts we could recognise; the heart was placed separately, we +supposed, as a savoury morsel for the chief himself. We placed the whole +in the grave, which we filled up as well as we could, and then broke and +scattered the oven. + +By this time the natives from both villages had assembled, and a scene +similar to this was never before witnessed in New Zealand. Six unarmed +men, quite unprotected (for there was not a single vessel in the harbour, +nor had there been for a month), had attacked and destroyed all the +preparations of the natives for what they consider a national feast; and +this was done in the presence of a great body of armed chiefs, who had +assembled to partake of it. After having finished this exploit, and our +passion and disgust had somewhat subsided, I could not help feeling that +we had acted very imprudently in thus tempting the fury of these savages, +and interfering in an affair that certainly was no concern of ours; but +as no harm accrued to any of our party, it plainly shows the influence +"the white men" have already obtained over them; had the offence we +committed been done by any hostile tribe, hundreds of lives would have +been sacrificed. + +The next day our old friend King George paid us a long visit, and we +talked over the affair very calmly. He highly disapproved of our conduct. +"In the first place," said he, "you did a foolish thing, which might have +cost you your lives; and yet did not accomplish your purpose after all, +as you merely succeeded in burying the flesh near the spot on which you +found it. After you went away it was again taken up, and every bit was +eaten"--a fact I afterwards ascertained by examining the grave and +finding it empty. King George further said: "It was an old custom, which +their fathers practised before them; and you had no right to interfere +with their ceremonies. I myself," added he, "have left off eating human +flesh, out of compliment to you white men; but you have no reason to +expect the same compliance from all the other chiefs. What punishment +have you in England for thieves and runaways?" We answered, "After trial, +flogging or hanging." "Then," he replied, "the only difference in our +laws is, you flog and hang, but we shoot and eat." + +After thus reproving us, he became very communicative on the subject of +cannibalism. He said, he recollected the time prior to pigs and potatoes +being introduced into the island (an epoch of great importance to the New +Zealanders), and stated that he was born and reared in an inland +district, and the only food they then had consisted of fern roots and +kumara; fish they never saw, and the only flesh he then partook of was +human. But I will no longer dwell on this humiliating subject. Most +white men who have visited the island have been sceptical on this point; +I myself was before I had "ocular proof." Consequently I availed myself +of the first opportunity to convince myself of the fact. I have reflected +upon the subject, and am thoroughly satisfied that nothing will cure the +natives of this dreadful propensity but the introduction of many +varieties of animals, both wild and tame, and all would be sure to thrive +in so mild and fine a climate. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +SLAVERY AMONG THE MAORIS. + + +The scene I have just described brings into consideration the subject of +slavery, as it now exists in New Zealand. That slavery should be the +custom of savage nations and cannibals, is not a cause of wonder: they +are the only class of human beings it ought to remain with. Here slavery +assumes its most hideous shape! Every one they can effect a seizure of in +an enemy's country becomes the slave of the captors. Chiefs are never +made prisoners; they either fight to the last, or are killed on the spot, +and their heads are preserved (by a peculiar method) as trophies. +Children are greatly prized: these they bring to their dwellings, and +they remain slaves for life. Upon the number of slaves a chief can muster +he takes his rank as a man of wealth and consequence in society; and the +only chance these wretched beings have of being released from their +miseries, is their master getting into a rage, and murdering them without +further ceremony. + +On entering a village, a stranger instantly discovers which portion of +its inhabitants are the slaves, though both the complexion and the +dresses of all are alike. The free Zealander is a joyous, good-humoured +looking man, full of laughter and vivacity, and is chattering +incessantly; but the slaves have invariably a squalid, dejected look; +they are never seen to smile, and appear literally half starved. The +beauties characteristic of a New Zealander are his teeth and hair; the +latter, in particular, is his pride and study; but the slaves have their +heads half shorn. The male slave is not allowed to marry; and any +intercourse with a female, if discovered, is generally punished by death. +Never was there a body of men so completely cut off from all society as +these poor slaves; they never can count, with certainty, on a single +moment of life, as the savage caprice of their master may instantly +deprive them of it. If, by chance, a slave should belong to a kind and +good master, an accident happening to him, or any of his family, will +probably prove equally fatal to the slave, as some are generally +sacrificed on the death of a chief. + +Thus these poor slaves are deprived of every hope and stimulus by which +all other classes and individuals are animated; no good conduct of theirs +towards their master, no attachment to his person or family, no fidelity +or long service can ensure kind treatment. If the slave effect his escape +to his own part of the country, he is there treated with contempt; and +when he dies (if a natural death), his body is dragged to the outside of +the village, there to be made sport of by the children, or to furnish +food for the dogs! but more frequently his fate is to receive a fatal +blow in a fit of passion, and then be devoured by his brutal master! Even +the female slaves who, if pretty, are frequently taken as wives by their +conquerors, have not a much greater chance of happiness, all being +dependent upon the caprice of their owners. + +When I can relate anything favourable to the missionaries, I invariably +intend to do so, which will account for the introduction of the +following: A few days since, I paid a visit to one of their settlements, +and noticed a remarkably fine native woman attending as a servant. She +was respectably dressed, and in every respect (except complexion) she was +similar to a European. She spoke English fluently. Upon expressing my +admiration of her, I was informed that this woman had been a slave of +Hongi's, and that about a year previous he had lost one of his sons, and +had determined to sacrifice this poor girl as an atonement. She was +actually bound for the purpose, and nothing but the strong interference +of the whole of the missionary society here could have saved her life. +They exerted themselves greatly, and preserved her; and she had proved a +faithful and valuable servant. + + + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +PIRATICAL SEIZURE OF A VESSEL. + + +Before finally quitting the subject of slavery, I must give an account of +some white men I saw in this state of degradation, and who belonged to a +chief who visited us some weeks since. In the beginning of 1827, the +Government of New South Wales hired the brig Wellington to convey a +number of prisoners to Norfolk Island, most of whom were felons of the +worst description: the greater part were under sentence of banishment for +life. These desperadoes amounted to seventy-four; by far too many for the +size of the brig, as those whose duty is was to guard them, and the crew +of the vessel, were too few to keep them under subjection. When within a +few days' sail of their destination, they rose on the guard, and, after a +desperate struggle, made themselves masters of the vessel, which was a +very fine one, and was well provided with arms and stores of every kind, +amounting to a sufficiency to carry them to any part of the world they +chose. But the machinations of the wicked rarely prosper, and this was +another proof of the truth of the observation; for, after a stormy and +violent debate among themselves, they at length determined to run for the +Bay of Islands, and if any vessel more eligible was there, they were to +take possession of her, and leave the Wellington behind, she having no +register. It is but justice to them to state that they behaved with +humanity to their captives, and no lives were lost: they appointed +officers amongst themselves, and, with the assistance of the deposed +captain, made this port. On their arrival here, they found two English +whalers, the Sisters, Captain Duke, and the Harriet. The commanders, as +is usual on these occasions, went immediately on board the newcomer. +Captain Duke well knew the vessel, having seen her at Sydney; but, of +course, had no idea of what had happened. The pirates received them with +great civility, and deceived them with a false description of their +voyage--of being bound to a southern port with prisoners; and the two +captains, not having the slightest suspicion of who their hosts really +were, passed a very merry evening with these marauders. + +Soon, however, their bad management of the vessel, their want of +discipline, and the general confusion on board, roused a vague suspicion +in the minds of the two captains that all was not "quite right" on board +the Wellington. The real captain, too, had succeeded in conveying a note +to Duke, informing him of his situation, and claiming his assistance to +recapture the brig, and entreating him to release them all from +captivity. + +This communication produced universal alarm, as both the whalers were +quite unprovided for attack or defence, and all the missionary +settlements lay quite at the mercy of this band of pirates. Had the +latter acted with promptness and spirit, they might easily have made +themselves masters of the whole; but while they were arguing and +hesitating where they would make their first attack, the whalers were +actively employed in getting their great guns out of the hold, and in +preparing their vessels for defence; so that, by the time the pirates +came to the resolution to attack them, the whalers were in a good +posture for resistance, and finally became the assailants. Aided by the +prompt assistance of the natives, the whole of these outlaws were taken +into custody, with the exception of six. The extreme interest the savages +took in capturing these deluded men was truly astonishing. When they were +made to understand that these were King George's (of England) slaves, who +had broken loose, they knew, from their own laws, that they ought to be +taken, and they displayed a great deal of courage and address in +approaching and securing them. + +The pirates (having many passengers and others in their power) stipulated +that they should be landed at Kororarika, unmolested by any of the +English. This was granted; but no sooner were they left by themselves +than a party of natives came forward, seized and bound them, stripped off +their clothes, and, after dressing themselves up in them, conducted their +prisoners on board the whalers; but notwithstanding the anxiety of the +whalers to secure the whole, and the activity of the natives, six of them +found means to elude the search, and here they now are. + +The day on which our houses were burned, these six landed in the train of +one of the chiefs; and I have since entertained a suspicion that it was +their desire of revenge that occasioned the destruction of our property +at the time the calamity happened. I chanced to be in the house alone, +and was amazed by seeing an Englishman enter the hut with his face +tattooed all over. Not being aware he was one of the runaways from the +Wellington, I spoke to him. He slunk into our cooking-house on pretence +of lighting his pipe, and before ten minutes had elapsed, the house was +in flames. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +THE CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. + + +The summer was now far advanced, and never, during its progress, had we +been incommoded by any very hot weather. Our house was generally crowded +with visitors: for, as it was the workmanship of King George and his +people, they were prodigiously proud of it, and each seemed to think he +had an undoubted right to sit in it as much as he liked. This, at times, +we felt as a great annoyance; but we were obliged to be very cautious not +to say or do anything that should give offence to them, as all were +exceedingly irritable, and we felt it to be most essential to our comfort +to continue on friendly terms with them. + +Although we were situated in the same latitude as Sydney, we found the +climate of New Zealand infinitely superior. Moderate heats and +beautifully clear skies succeeded each other every day. We were quite +free from those oppressive, feverish heats which invariably prevail in +the middle of the day at Sydney, and from those hot pestilential winds +which are the terror of the inhabitants of New South Wales; nor were we +subject to those long droughts, which are often the ruin of the +Australian farmer. The temperature here was neither too hot nor too cold, +neither too wet nor too dry. Reflecting on this country--its situation, +inhabitants, and climate--I felt convinced that, if it were the object of +our Government to form a new colony, they could not select a more +desirable spot than New Zealand. When we left Sydney, a disease was +raging there of a most disagreeable nature, namely, catarrh. As usual, it +affected strongly the eyes and nose, and generally proved fatal to the +very old and to children. We found the poor natives here subject to the +same complaint, which they called the "Murray," or "Murraybad"; and they +declared they caught it from us Europeans. + +I could scarcely refrain from laughing while witnessing the strange +methods they adopted to effect a cure. Sometimes they would envelope +their heads entirely in green leaves, at other times they would almost +roast themselves in a heated hut; but their universal remedy, and the one +they generally found successful, was starvation, which is, in fact, the +doctor who cures them of all the diseases the Europeans have imported +amongst them: and, I confess, I have often been amazed at their rapid +recovery from maladies which I should have thought incurable. The other +day I asked the opinion of a clever medical man, who came here with one +of the whalers, and he informed me the only cases he had met with amongst +the natives, which terminated fatally, were a few instances of +consumption. + +After the novelty of our savage life began to wear away, I rambled much +about the country, in order to form some judgment of its capability of +improvement. I never possessed any practical knowledge of farming, and +therefore cannot give a scientific opinion or description of the +different soils. In whatever direction I travelled, and at this time I +had crossed the country in various directions several times, the soil +appeared to me to be fat and rich, and also well watered. From every +part of it which the natives have cultivated, the produce has been +immense. Here, where the finest samples of the human race are to be +found, the largest and finest timber grows, and every vegetable (yet +planted) thrives, the introduction of European grasses, fruits, etc., +etc., would be a great desideratum. Were this done, in a very short time +farms would be more eagerly sought after here than they now are in New +South Wales. All the fruits and plants hitherto introduced by the +missionary establishments have succeeded wonderfully. Peaches and water +melons now were in full season; the natives brought baskets full of them +to our door every day, which they exchanged with us for the merest +trifles, such as a fish-hook, or a button. + +Indian corn was likewise very abundant, but as the natives did not +possess any means or knowledge of grinding it, they were not aware of its +full value. Their only method of cooking it was one very disgusting to +Europeans. They soaked the ear in water till it was quite soft and sour, +the smell from which was exceedingly offensive; they then placed it in +their earth ovens to bake, and when they partook of it they seemed to +enjoy it very much. + +In one of my journeys across the island I was accompanied by my Scotch +friend, Mr. Shand, who prided himself very much upon his general +knowledge of agricultural pursuits; and when I indulged in some sudden +bursts of admiration at the beauty of the surrounding prospect, he would +invariably check my enthusiasm, by observing that no animals could +possibly live in a country so overgrown with fern, and where no grass was +indigenous. These observations, often repeated, obliged me to qualify my +admiration of this picturesque and beautiful land; but my surprise, and I +may say my triumph, were complete when, on approaching the missionary +village of Kirikiri, we fell in with a herd of at least a hundred fat +cattle, browsing on the sides of the hill, and having nothing else but +this very fern to eat; and, on inquiry, we found they gave as good milk, +and were in as healthy a condition, as when they grazed on the rich +grasses of Lincolnshire. + +My friend, Captain Duke, made great preparations for the return of his +ships, and purchased many pigs to be salted. The self-denial of the +natives is wonderful: though very fond of animal food, they sell the +whole to us Europeans for the means of war; thus conquering the appetite +for the purpose of possessing arms to make them terrible in the sight of +their enemies. This feeling, properly directed, may lead to their +becoming a great nation. In the course of our saltings and picklings of +pork, owing to the warmth of the weather, a considerable quantity was +spoiled. I recommended its being immediately thrown into the sea, but +Duke, who knew the propensities of the people better than I did, and +wished to ingratiate himself among them, sent for some of his favourites, +and presented them with the damaged meat, with which they marched off +highly delighted, and made a public feast of it in the evening. + +[Illustration: New Zealand Method of Tattooing. (From a sketch by +A. Earle.)] + + + + +CHAPTER XXXII. + +THE ART OF TATTOOING. + + +The art of tattooing has been brought to such perfection here, that +whenever we have seen a New Zealander whose skin is thus ornamented, we +have admired him. It is looked upon as answering the same purposes as +clothes. When a chief throws off his mats, he seems as proud of +displaying the beautiful ornaments figured on his skin as a first-rate +exquisite is in exhibiting himself in his last fashionable attire. It is +an essential part of war-like preparations. The whole of this district of +Kororarika was preparing for the approaching war. Their canoes, muskets, +powder and balls, increased daily; and a very ingenious artist, called +Aranghie, arrived to carry on this important branch of his art, which was +soon placed in requisition, for all the mighty men in the neighbourhood +were one by one under his operating hands. + +As this "professor" was a near neighbour of mine, I frequently paid him a +visit in his "studio," and he returned the compliment whenever he had +time to spare. He was considered by his countrymen a perfect master in +the art of tattooing, and men of the highest rank and importance were in +the habit of travelling long journeys in order to put their skins under +his skilful hands. Indeed, so highly were his works esteemed, that I have +seen many of his drawings exhibited even after death. A neighbour of mine +very lately killed a chief who had been tattooed by Aranghie, and, +appreciating the artist's work so highly, he skinned the chieftain's +thighs, and covered his cartouch box with it. + +I was astonished to see with what boldness and precision Aranghie drew +his designs upon the skin, and what beautiful ornaments he produced; no +rule and compasses could be more exact than the lines and circles he +formed. So unrivalled is he in his profession, that a highly-finished +face of a chief from the hands of this artist is as greatly prized in New +Zealand as a head from the hands of Sir Thomas Lawrence is amongst us. It +was most gratifying to behold the respect these savages pay to the fine +arts. This "professor" was merely a _kooky_ or slave, but by skill and +industry he raised himself to an equality with the greatest men of his +country; and as every chief who employed him always made him some +handsome present, he soon became a man of wealth, and was constantly +surrounded by such important personages as Pungho Pungho, Ruky Ruky, Kivy +Kivy, Aranghy Tooker, etc., etc. My friend Shulitea (King George) sent +him every day the choicest things from his own table. Though thus basking +in the full sunshine of court favour, Aranghie, like a true genius, was +not puffed up with pride by his success, for he condescended to come and +take tea with me almost every evening. He was delighted with my drawings, +particularly with a portrait I made of him. He copied so well, and seemed +to enter with such interest into the few lessons of painting I gave him, +that if I were returning from here direct to England, I would certainly +bring him with me, as I look upon him as a great natural genius. + +[Illustration: Specimens of Tattooed Faces and Thigh. (From "Expedition +de l'Astrolabe.")] + +One of the important personages who came to the village to employ the +talent of our artist was a _Mr_. Rooky Rooky (and he was always very +particular in remembering the _Mister_); he brought four of his wives +with him, leaving six more at home (polygamy in New Zealand being allowed +to any extent). One of this man's wives was a little girl not more than +ten years of age, and she excited a great deal of interest amongst us, +which, when he discovered, he became very anxious to dispose of her to +any of us. He importuned us incessantly on the subject, saying she was +his slave, and offered her in exchange for a musket. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIII. + +TRIBAL GOVERNMENT AND RELIGION. + + +Though from my increased knowledge of the language, I was enabled to hold +longer conversations, I could not discover that the New Zealanders had +any universal form of government: there appeared to me to be no public +bodies, or any functionaries employed by the people. Each chief seemed to +possess absolute power over his own slaves, and there his authority +terminated. Wealth made him feared by his foes, but gave him no influence +over his friends. All offence offered to any one of a tribe (or clan) is +instantly followed by some act of retaliation by the aggrieved party; and +if one tribe is too weak to contend against the one from whom they have +received the injury, they call in the aid of another. But should the +offence be of a very aggravated nature, and several families be injured +by it, a meeting of the chiefs is called. They assemble in one of their +forts, and, after a discussion, decide either for an amicable adjustment, +or for an exterminating war. Thus these misguided beings are continually +destroying each other for some imaginary insult. + +I became acquainted with a few venerable men of truly noble and +praiseworthy characters, such as would do honour to any age, country, or +religion. They had passed their whole lives in travelling from one +chieftain's residence to another, for the purpose of endeavouring to +explain away insults, to offer apologies, and to strive by every means +in their power to establish peace between those about to plunge their +country into the horrors of war. I have several times met these +benevolent men journeying through the country on these pacific missions; +and twice during my residence here they have been the happy means of +preventing bloodshed. Although the New Zealander is so fond of war, and +possesses such war-like manners, yet are these peacemakers held in the +highest respect, although they do not hold any sacred function--indeed, +no order of priesthood exists amongst the natives. I have never +discovered any symptoms of religion in these people, except it consists +in a great variety of absurd and superstitious ceremonies. Before I +visited this island I used to imagine, from seeing so great a variety of +carved figures which had been brought from this country, that they were +idols, to whom they paid their devotions; but in this I was deceived. +They were merely the grotesque carvings of rude artists, possessing a +lively fancy, and were a proof of their industry as well as genius. Every +chief's house is adorned with an abundance of these carved monsters. One +of their favourite subjects is a lizard taking hold of the top of a man's +head; their tradition being that that was the origin of man. The lizard +is sacred, and never injured by them. Several of their chiefs assured me +they believed in the existence of a great and invisible spirit, called +Atna, who keeps a constant charge and watch over them; and that they are +constantly looking out for tokens of his approbation or displeasure. +There is not a wind that blows but they imagine it bears some message +from him. And there are not wanting crafty men who pretend to a much more +intimate knowledge of his sentiments than the generality, and they easily +work on the minds of the credulous and the ignorant. These imposters +obtain great consideration, and their counsel and advice is most +anxiously sought after by those about to undertake any important +business; but, like ancient astrologers and modern gypsies, they speak +only in ambiguous terms; so that whatever may be the result, their +prediction may still correspond with it. + +Like all rude and ignorant people, the New Zealanders seem more to fear +the wrath of their God than to love his attributes; and constant +sacrifices (too often human ones) are offered up to appease his anger. +They imagine that the just and glorious Deity is ever ready to destroy, +and that His hand is always stretched forth to execute vengeance. + +These sacred, or, more correctly speaking, these "cunning" men and women, +who pretend to see into futurity, and to hold an intercourse with the +Great Spirit, are here (in one way, at least) turned to a good and useful +account. As they themselves are held sacred, everything they wish to have +taken particular care of, they can render sacred also. All the chiefs +find these people of the greatest use in protecting their property, for +they possess the power of tabooing, and when once this ceremony is +performed over any person or thing, no one dares to touch either; and for +a sufficiently good bribe they will impart their sacred power to any +chief, who, by means of this device, thus can protect a field of potatoes +or grain, at fifty miles distance from his settlement, more securely and +effectually than by any fences, or number of persons he might place to +guard it. + +This ceremony of taboo, which is common to the whole of the South Sea +Islands, seems the principal part of their religion, and it is really +difficult to walk without trespassing or infringing on some spot under +this influence. All those who touch a corpse are immediately taboo'd, and +must be fed like an infant, as their own hands must not touch anything +that is put into their mouths. In fact, as we strolled through the +village at the time of their evening repast, it appeared as though some +dreadful disease had suddenly struck the greater part of the inhabitants, +and deprived them of the use of their limbs, most of them being either +fed by their slaves, or lying flat down on the ground, and with their +mouths eating out of their platters or baskets. The canoe that carries a +corpse to the place of its interment is, from that time, taboo'd and laid +up; and if any one by chance touches it, he does so at his peril. + +All those chiefs who were under the operating hands of Aranghie, the +tatooer, were under this law, and all those who worked upon their war +canoes were similarly situated. Unfortunately for me, I one day took away +a handful of chips from their dockyard to make our fire burn clearly. I +was informed they were taboo'd, and upon my pleading ignorance, and +sorrow for the misdemeanour, together with a promise not to renew the +offence, I was pardoned. A poor hen of ours did not escape so well; she, +poor thing, ventured to form a nest, and actually hatched a fine family +of chickens amongst these sacred shavings! Loud was the outcry, and great +the horror she occasioned when she marched forth cackling, with her merry +brood around her. She and "all her little ones" were sacrificed +instantly. What became of their bodies we could never learn; probably the +workmen were not too fastidious to eat them. + +I have observed, since my residence here, one circumstance which proves a +kind feeling in the natives, and shows they are not averse to the +preaching of the missionaries, or the doctrines they inculcate. + +It was the custom of all the Europeans settled here, on the beach at +Kororarika, to refrain from all kinds of work on the Sabbath; to shave, +and dress themselves in their best habiliments; and if any of the +missionaries came over, they went forth to meet them, and hear divine +service. Several of the natives generally assembled and witnessed the +ceremony; and as they observed it came every seventh day, they called it +"the white taboo'd day, when the pakeha (or white men) put on clean +clothes, and leave off work;" and, strange to say, the natives also +abstained from working on that day. Nothing could induce them to the +contrary; not that we wished to persuade them to work, but merely +endeavoured so to do to ascertain the strength of their politeness. Not a +bit of work would they do upon a Sunday, although it was a critical time +with them; for all the chiefs were unprepared with their war canoes for +the approaching expedition. At length we discovered that their cunning +was as conspicuous as their politeness. They had observed we generally +lay longer in bed on a Sunday morning than any other; they accordingly +were up by break of day, and had completed many hours' work before we +made our appearance; but the moment one of us did appear the work was +instantly left off. This degree of outward respect, though craftily +managed, was infinitely more than could be reasonably expected from a +rude and turbulent savage. It is mere respect than we Europeans pay to +any religious ceremony we do not understand. Even their taboo'd grounds +would not be so respected by us, if we were not quite certain they +possessed the power instantly to revenge any affront offered to their +sacred places. + +Of all animals introduced by the Europeans, the most unserviceable, and +indeed injurious, have been the dogs. They have increased rapidly; every +spot was crowded with poor half-starved curs, that were all night long +committing depredations on the poultry, pigs, and goats; and if some +effectual means of diminishing this pernicious breed is not soon resorted +to, the island will be cleared of every other quadruped. Goats were +beginning to increase, and the craggy heights round the bays formed a +favourite retreat for these interesting wanderers. Captain Duke put +himself to great expense and trouble, and effected the importation of +some sheep from Van Diemen's Land; but the dogs soon destroyed them all. + + +THE MASSACRE OF THE FRENCH NAVIGATOR MARION AND PARTY. + +Our friend George generally paid us a visit after the business of the day +was over, and took a cup of tea; wine or grog he detested: so, while he +sipped his beverage, we lit our pipes, and managed, with our slight +knowledge of his language, together with his imperfect English, to keep +up a sort of conversation. Sometimes this was rather wearisome; but +occasionally it became interesting in the extreme. He told us that, when +Captain Cook touched here, he was a little child; but that his mother +(old Turero, who was then with him) remembered his coming well. The +French navigator, Marion, he recollected perfectly, and made one of the +party that murdered him and his people. His observation was, "They were +all brave men; but they were killed and eaten." + +He assured us that the catastrophe was quite unpremeditated. Marion's +entire ignorance of the customs of the New Zealanders occasioned that +distressing event: as I have before observed, that strangers, not +acquainted with their religious prejudices, are likely to commit some +fatal error; and no action is more likely to lead a party into danger +than an incautious use of the seine, for most of the beaches (best suited +for that purpose) are taboo'd. This led to the dreadful fate of Marion +and his party. I understood from George, that when Marion's men assembled +to trail their net on the sacred beach, the natives used every kind of +entreaty and remonstrance to induce them to forbear, but, either from +ignorance or obstinacy, they persisted in their intentions, and drew +their net to land. + +The natives, greatly incensed by this act of impiety, vowed revenge; and +the suspicions of the French not being roused, an opportunity soon +presented itself of taking ample retaliation. The seine being very heavy, +the French required the assistance of the natives in drawing it on shore. +These wily fellows instantly consented to the task, and placed themselves +alternately between each Frenchman, apparently, to equalise the work. +Consequently, in the act of pulling, each native had a white man before +him; and, on an appointed signal, the brains of each European were +knocked out by a tremendous blow of the stone hatchet. + +Captain Marion, who, from his ship, was an eye-witness of these horrid +murders, instantly hastened on shore with the remainder of his crew to +avenge the slaughter of his countrymen. Led on more by ardour than +prudence, he suffered himself to be surrounded; was overpowered by +numbers, defeated, and every one was put to death! + +This account of George's does not, I acknowledge, exactly agree with the +published narrative of that unfortunate event, nor does his age agree +with the dates. Only a few years elapsed between the time of Cook and +Marion, yet he declares himself to have been a child at the death of the +navigator, and a man at the murder of the latter; but as it was voluntary +on his part to give me the above detail, and even if he were not present +himself, he most probably had the facts from one who was, I thought it +worth inserting, as tending to throw light on one of the most melancholy +events which ever took place on these coasts. + +George also related to me the dreadful tragedy of the ship Boyd, and, +horrible as these relations were, I felt a particular interest, almost +amounting to pleasure, in hearing them related by an eye-witness; one who +had been an actor in those bloody scenes which I had before read of: +narratives which from my very childhood had always possessed particular +charms for me; and at this time I was not only looking on the very spot +the hero of my imagination, Cook, had trod, but was hearing the tale from +one who had actually seen him; and was listening to every particular +concerning the transactions of Marion and his men, as though they had +just taken place. + +Even in the dreadful destruction of the Boyd, George laid the blame +entirely on the English, and spoke with great bitterness of the +ill-treatment of Philip, the native chief, who came as passenger in the +ship. He described and mimicked his cleaning shoes and knives; his being +flogged when he refused to do this degrading work; and, finally, his +speech to his countrymen when he came on shore, soliciting their +assistance in capturing the vessel, and revenging his ill-treatment. Over +and over again our friend George, having worked up his passion by a full +recollection of the subject, went through the whole tragedy. The scene +thus portrayed was interesting although horrible. No actor, trained in +the strictest rules of his art, could compete with George's vehemence of +action. The flexibility of his features enabled him to vary the +expression of each passion; and he represented hatred, anger, horror, and +the imploring of mercy so ably that, in short, one would have imagined he +had spent his whole life in practising the art of imitation. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIV. + +THE MAORI VIEW OF CHRISTIANITY. + + +I frequently conversed with George upon the subject of religion, and from +what he told me I found that the natives had not formed the slightest +idea of there being a state of future punishment. They refuse to believe +that the good Spirit intends to make them miserable after their decease. +They imagine all the actions of this life are punished here, and that +every one when dead, good or bad, bondsman or free, is assembled on an +island situated near the North Cape, where both the necessaries and +comforts of life will be found in the greatest abundance, and all will +enjoy a state of uninterrupted happiness. A people of their simple +habits, and possessing so little property, have but few temptations to +excesses of any kind, excepting the cruelties practised by them in war, +in which they fancy themselves perfectly justified, and the tyranny +exercised by them over their slaves, whom they look upon as mere +machines. There is, in fact, but little crime among them, for which +reason they cannot imagine any man wicked enough to deserve eternal +punishment. This opinion of theirs we saw an illustration of one Sunday, +when one of the missionaries paid us a visit. + +The ceremony of all assembling to public worship astonished the natives +greatly, though they always behaved with the utmost decorum when admitted +into the house where the ceremony takes place. On the day in question +the minister endeavoured to explain the sacred mysteries of our religion +to a number of the chiefs who were present. They listened attentively to +all he said, and expressed no doubts as to its truth, only remarking that +"as all these wonderful circumstances happened only in the country of the +white men, the great Spirit expected the white men only to believe them." +The missionary then began to expatiate on the torments of hell, at which +some of them seemed horrified, but others said "they were quite sure such +a place could only be made for the white faces, for they had no men half +wicked enough in New Zealand to be sent there;" but when the reverend +gentleman added with vehemence that "all men" would be condemned, the +savages all burst into a loud laugh, declaring "they would have nothing +to do with a God who delighted in such cruelties; and then (as a matter +of right) hoped the missionary would give them each a blanket for having +taken the trouble of listening to him so patiently." + +I cannot forbear censuring the missionaries, inasmuch as they prevent the +natives, by every means in their power, from acquiring the English +language. They make a point of mastering the native tongue as quickly as +possible, and being able to give their whole time and attention to it, +this is easily accomplished. It is of importance that they should do so, +otherwise they could not carry on the duties of the mission; but by thus +engrossing the knowledge, they obtain great influence over the minds of +the natives. We ourselves were sadly puzzled by a correspondence we had +with two native chiefs, who had been taught to read and write by some of +the Society; but their acquirements being in their native language, were +of no possible use. The difficulty of teaching them English would not +have been greater, and then what stores of information and improvement +might not their instructors have laid open to them. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXV. + +THREATENED INVASION BY HONGI. + + +We had passed some months here, and were beginning to look out for the +return of our brig, to take us again into civilised society, when we were +once more thrown into alarm by a threatened invasion. A rumour was +circulated in the village that Hongi, who now lay at the point of death, +had declared that he would make one last glorious effort before he +expired. He was resolved (it was reported) to collect his warriors, +overcome George and his followers, possess himself of Kororarika, and die +upon the conquered territory of his enemy; and I had no doubt that in his +moment of delirium such had been his exclamations, as it had always been +one of his favourite projects. When this was reported to George, he +immediately came to us, and with a most doleful countenance told us we +must take care of ourselves; for, if the report proved true, he was much +too weak to protect us. This certainly caused us some alarm, but, +fortunately for us, a good-sized whaler, the Marianne, was then lying at +anchor in the port, having arrived but a few days previously. The +presence of a ship, all over the world, is felt as a protection to +Europeans, as in case of danger it is a sure place of refuge. + +King George sent off his messengers in every direction to inform his +friends and dependants of the threats uttered against him by Hongi, and +the next day eight large war canoes, filled with warriors, came to his +assistance. They landed at some distance from the beach, and, as it was +late in the day, they would not make their public _entree_ till the next +morning; for the New Zealanders are very fond of giving a grand effect to +all their public meetings. I determined to pay them a visit, to witness +the ceremonies of the night bivouack, which proved a most picturesque +scene, and wild and beautiful in the extreme. Their watch fires glanced +upon the dark skins of these finely formed men, and on their bright +weapons. Some groups were dancing; others were lying round a fire, +chanting wild songs, descriptive of former wars; whilst the graver elders +sat in a circle, and discussed the present state of affairs. All were +delighted to see me, and each group offered to share their fire and +provisions with the "white visitor," as they termed me. + +The next morning these auxiliary forces were seen descending the hills to +our village; and, in order to return the compliment, we all went in our +best array to receive them. There were upwards of two hundred athletic, +naked savages, each armed with his firelock, and marching with the utmost +regularity. The chiefs took the lead. The alarm such a sight might have +created was dissipated by the certainty that they came as our protectors. +I even imagined their countenances were not so ferocious as usual but as +they approached near to our party, the usual sham fight began, +accompanied by the war dance, and although I expected it, and indeed had +come for the purpose of witnessing it, it was conducted with so much fury +on both sides, that at length I became quite horrified, and for some +time could not divest myself of the feeling that our visitors were +playing false, so closely did this mock combat resemble a real one. The +dreadful noises, the hideous faces, the screeching of the women, and the +menacing gestures of each party, were so calculated to inspire terror, +that stouter hearts than mine might have felt fear. When the tumult +subsided, the elder chiefs squatted down, and had the long talk usual on +these occasions. + +I was much delighted to recognise among these chiefs one I had known at +Sydney. During his residence in that city I had permitted him to remain +in my house, and the few presents which he had requested on his return to +his own country I had provided him with, and sent him off delighted and +happy, and never expected to behold him again. The moment I approached he +recollected me, jumped up from the "council," ran up to me, hugged me in +his arms, and rubbed noses so forcibly with me that I felt his friendship +for some time, besides being daubed all over most plentifully with red +ochre, which he, being then on a war-like and ceremonious visit, was +smeared with from head to foot. + +When my savage friend (whom we used to call Mr. Tookee) had overcome his +first burst of delight at seeing me, and had literally left off jumping +for joy, he introduced me to his father, Mr. De Frookee, the chief of his +tribe, a very fine specimen of an old New Zealander, who was (I found) +highly respected for his integrity and benevolence. His eyes overflowed +with tears when he heard I was the person who had shown such kindness to +his son at Sydney. I soon felt quite "at home" with the old chief, and +experienced the good effect of having kept my word with this uncultivated +savage. I had, at the time I presented him with the gifts, been much +laughed at by my acquaintances at Sydney for putting myself to such +unnecessary expense; but, from the gratitude he displayed for the +trifling services I had then rendered him, I felt assured he and his +companions would do all in their power to protect me from every danger. + +A long discussion was now carried on, one speaker at a time occupying the +oblong space round which the warriors sat, and the more animated the +debate, the faster ran the speaker to and fro, flourishing his hatchet in +a most dexterous manner. The instant one speaker finishes, another starts +up to answer him; but previous to rising they throw a mat or blanket over +their shoulders, and arrange it most tastefully around them; and, as +their attitudes are all striking and graceful, and a great part of the +figure is left exposed, it forms a study for an artist, well worth his +going many miles to witness, and invariably reminded me of the fine +models of antiquity. + +As a painter, I conceive that this must have been the great secret of the +perfection to which the Greek and Roman sculptors brought their works; as +they constantly contemplated the display of the human form in all its +beauty in their various gymnastic exercises, which enabled them to +transfer to marble such ease and elegance as we, living in an age of +coats and breeches, never shall be able to rival. + +After the important subjects had been settled by the elders, the young +men assembled without their weapons, and began another kind of sham +fight, one grappling with another, till hundreds of them were locked in +each other's arms, and were flung in heaps in every direction. After +they were tired of this pastime, a regular ring was formed, and a +wrestling match began, which was carried on in as regular and fair a +manner as a boxing match in our own country, and as much skill and +cunning were displayed in the art of throwing as the greatest connoisseur +would desire. I was pleased, also, to observe that, whatever happened +(and some most severe throws and blows passed), nothing could disturb +their good humour. + +This party, having remained for seven days on our beach, and not hearing +anything more of our intended invaders, their provisions also becoming +rather scarce, took leave in order to return to their own district, +placing scouts to give them quick intelligence of the movements of the +enemy. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVI. + +ARRIVAL OF A WARSHIP. + + +A few days after the departure of this friendly tribe, a "King's ship" of +eighteen guns arrived in the Bay; consequently all our fears of an +immediate invasion were over. No sooner had she cast anchor than our +friend George came to us, expressing the greatest anxiety to visit King +George of England's warship, and requesting we would accompany him, which +we readily agreed to do; and he left us to adorn himself for the +occasion. Soon after he reappeared in great state. A very splendid +war-mat was thrown over his shoulders; his hair was dressed, oiled, and +decorated with feathers, and his person was plentifully covered with red +ochre: he appeared a very fine-looking fellow: his mother, his three +wives, and all his sons and daughters were dressed in equal magnificence, +and accompanied him. + +In this state we went off to visit the vessel; but the moment I came +alongside, I repented my being there, for the rude and churlish manner in +which we were received distressed me considerably. In the first place, an +order was given that none but the chief himself should be allowed to come +on board; consequently his wives and daughters were obliged to remain in +the canoe. The captain spoke only a few words to George, who was allowed +to remain but a few minutes in the cabin; on getting up to take leave, +George took off his fine war-mantle and presented it to the captain; but, +receiving no other covering in return for his gift, he went on shore +naked! The officers of the vessel behaved differently: they conducted us +all down into the gun-room, where they treated us most kindly, and paid +every attention to our friend George, whose dignity was deeply wounded by +the cool and contemptuous behaviour of the captain. + +How greatly is it to be regretted that some arrangements are not made by +our Government at Home, and that there are not orders given to commanders +of ships of war touching here to pay attention to the chiefs, and to make +some trifling presents amongst them; for there never were a people more +anxious to cultivate a friendly intercourse with British subjects than +the inhabitants of New Zealand: and yet there is scarcely a Government +vessel that puts into port here but the natives receive some insult, +though they are sent for the express purpose of supporting the dignity of +the English nation, and to cultivate the amicable feelings of the chiefs. + +When a "King's ship" comes to anchor, the chiefs (with all the glee of +children going to a fair) collect together their wives, children, and +friends, and pay a visit to the "fighting ships," to see King George's +warriors (as they call them): when they come alongside they are kept off +by an armed sentry; and, after a long parley, they are informed the chief +may come, but his family and friends must not. In this case, the natives +generally spit at the vessel, and, uttering execrations on their +inhospitality, return on shore. + +One of the savage chieftains who accompanied us to the vessel in +question, on our way back remarked, "that the white warriors were +_afraid_ of admitting them, though they were unarmed and but a few; while +the warriors in the ships were many, and armed with their great guns." + +Living entirely amongst these people so long as I had done, I felt the +absurdity of such conduct, and the folly of treating them so harshly. If +ever individuals are so situated as to need either the esteem or the +confidence of savages, they must bear with their prying and childish +curiosity, and not be afraid of treating them too kindly; by this means +they become the quietest and gentlest creatures in the world; but, if +treated with contumely, and their wives and families repulsed from your +ship, they become dangerous, vindictive, and cruel neighbours, as many a +dreadful deed which has taken place in this vicinity will fully prove. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVII. + +THE WHALERS AND THE MISSIONARIES. + + +The South Sea whalers are the ships the natives are the most anxious to +see on their coasts; and it is the crews of those vessels who have, in a +manner, civilised these hardy islanders. Captain Gardiner, of the +Marianne (the vessel now in the harbour), is the oldest person in that +trade; and he informed me, that not longer than twenty years back +scarcely any vessel would dare to touch at New Zealand; and when, from +particular circumstances, they were obliged so to do, they kept their +boarding-nettings up, and kept a strict guard night and day: their fears +arose from a want of knowledge of the disposition of the people. The +vessels frequenting the island use no precautions now: hundreds of +natives are permitted to crowd on board each ship; and no accident has +ever occurred from this mode of treatment. But when a ship of war arrives +here for the first time, the precautions taken are, to arm the row-guard +with cutlasses and pistols, and to harass the crew with constant +watching, while the only enemy that exists is in their own imaginations. +To the courage and enterprise of the commanders of whalers all credit is +due for working the rapid change in these once bloody-minded savages, and +forming safe and commodious harbours for their vessels to refit in: this +have they done in a part of the world lately looked upon with horror. +What credit soever the missionaries may take to themselves, or try to +make their supporters in England believe, every man who has visited this +place, and will speak his mind freely and disinterestedly, must +acknowledge _they_ have had no share in bringing about this change of +character; but, on the contrary, they have done all that in them lay to +injure the reputation of the whaler in the estimation of the natives. +Hitherto they have not succeeded: their want of hospitality and kindness +to their own countrymen raises a strong dislike to them in the minds of +these unsophisticated people. According to their simple notions of right +and wrong, they think the want of hospitality an unpardonable offence, +and that the counsel or advice of a man who shuts his door against his +neighbour is not worthy of being attended to. + +I will give the reader one more anecdote of these men, who are sent out +to set an example of the beauty of the Christian faith to the +unenlightened heathens. A few weeks since, the festival of Christmas took +place; and Englishmen, in whatever part of the world they chance to be, +make a point of assembling together on that day, our recollections then +being associated with "home" and our families, uniting to spend that day +in mutual congratulations and wishes for happiness. For some time +previous to its arrival, the captains of the two whalers and myself had +been deliberating where we should spend this social day; and it was +finally settled that we should cross the bay to Te Puna, a beautiful and +romantic spot, the residence of an intelligent chief, called Warri Pork, +and an Englishman, named Hanson. Near this was a church missionary +establishment; and at this Englishman's house we determined we would +spend the day. The captains of the two whalers then in the harbour +joined our party; and as everyone contributed his share towards our +picnic feast, the joint stock made altogether a respectable appearance. + +We proceeded to Te Puna in two whaleboats: it was a most delightful trip, +the scenery being strikingly beautiful. The village of Ranghe Hue, +belonging to Warri Pork, is situated on the summit of an immense and +abrupt hill: the huts belonging to the savages appeared, in many places, +as though they were overhanging the sea, the height being crowned with a +mighty pah. At the bottom of this hill, and in a beautiful valley, the +cottages of the missionaries are situated, complete pictures of English +comfort, content, and prosperity; they are close to a bright sandy beach: +a beautiful green slope lies in their rear, and a clear and never-failing +stream of water runs by the side of their enclosures. As the boats +approached this lovely spot, I was in an ecstasy of delight: such a happy +mixture of savage and civilised life I had never seen before; and when I +observed the white smoke curling out of the chimneys of my countrymen, I +anticipated the joyful surprise, the hearty welcome, the smiling faces, +and old Christmas compliments that were going to take place, and the +great pleasure it would give our secluded countrymen to meet us, in these +distant regions, at this happy season, and talk of our relatives and +friends in England. + +My romantic notions were soon crushed; our landing gave no pleasure to +these secluded Englishmen: they gave us no welcome; but, as our boats +approached the shore, they walked away to their own dwellings, closed +their gates and doors after them, and gazed at us through their windows; +and during three days that we passed in a hut quite near them, they +never exchanged one word with any of the party. Thus foiled in our hopes +of spending a social day with our compatriots, after our dinner was over +we sent materials for making a bowl of punch up the hill to the chiefs, +and spent the remainder of the day surrounded by generous savages, who +were delighted with our company, and who did everything in their power to +make us comfortable. In the course of the afternoon two of the mission +came up to preach; but the savages were so angry with them for not +showing more kindness to their own countrymen, that none would listen to +them. + +I have visited many of the Roman Catholic missionary establishments; +their priests adopt quite a different line of conduct: they are cheerful +and kind to the savage pagan, and polite and attentive to their European +brethren; they have gained the esteem of those they have been sent to +convert; they have introduced their own language amongst them, which +enables them to have intercourse with strangers; and, however we may +differ in some tenets of religious belief, we must acknowledge the +success of their mission. They have brought nearly the whole of the +Indian population in South America into the bosom of their church; and +their converts form the greater part of the people. Notwithstanding the +numerous church and sectarian missionaries sent from England, I never met +with one Indian converted by them. I have attended mass in an Indian +village; a native priest performed the ceremony, and the whole +congregation (except myself) were of his cast and complexion: and, it is +worthy of remark, that in Peru, and some of the most populous provinces, +a pagan is scarcely to be found. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVIII. + +THREATENED WAR. + + +We now heard that Tetoro (one of the most powerful chiefs of this part of +the island) had taken offence, and had sent a defiance to King George, +saying he intended coming to seek revenge, accompanied by a strong body +of warriors; and the "herald" who brought this proclamation informed us +that the English settlers were to be attacked and plundered also. + +We had every reason to fear this might prove a more calamitous affair +than any we had yet experienced; as George immediately collected all his +family and dependents, and took his departure for the Kawakawa river (the +residence of De Kookie, the chief who had come to his assistance against +Hongi's attack), leaving behind only a few slaves. Thus a second time +were we left to our own resources on Kororarika Beach. George and his +followers were too much scattered: some were trading with the ships, +others were distributed in various districts, attending to their +agricultural pursuits. Thus separated, each might become an easy prey to +any of the powerful chiefs; but, were they united, they would be too +strong for any of the tribes: unfortunately the hope of gain made them +risk so great a danger. At this period, too, there was not a single +vessel in the bay to protect us. The known partiality of all the tribes +for Europeans was the only consolation we had; and we endeavoured to +cheer each other with this hope, under what in reality might be +considered very appalling circumstances. + +After enduring this state of suspense and anxiety for several days, and +no enemy appearing, we determined to pay a visit to the camp of the +combined army of our friends, which would, at the same time, gratify our +own curiosity, and give them a degree of satisfaction; as it would prove +to them that we were not afraid of venturing amongst them, even in times +of danger. We accordingly prepared the whaleboats to proceed up the +Kawakawa river; and, as I had never been there before, the present +afforded an excellent opportunity for exploring that picturesque spot. + +At the top of the Bay of Islands, two rivers disembogue, the Wye Catte +and the Kawakawa: they are both small but beautiful streams. It was early +in the morning when we started: the dewy mist rose from the unruffled +bosom of the river like the gradual lifting up of a curtain, and, at +length, displayed its lofty sides, covered with immense trees, the +verdure extending to the very edge of the water. All was quiet, +beautiful, and serene; the only sounds which broke the calm were the wild +notes of the tui (or New Zealand blackbird), the splashing of our own +oars, or the occasional flight of a wild duck (or shag), disturbed by our +approach. + +We rowed our boat many miles without seeing the slightest vestige of any +human inhabitants or civilisation: all appeared wild and magnificent as +if just fresh from the hands of nature; and it failed not to lead the +mind up to the contemplation of the Creator. It seemed utterly impossible +to reconcile the idea that such lonely, romantic, and sequestered scenes +could conceal hordes of savage cannibals, or that the tranquility of this +very place would soon be exchanged for the noise and tumult of savage +warfare. We soon reached the village where the coalesced chiefs had taken +up their station: they had fortified their position, and were waiting the +approach of the enemy. No sooner, however, was our arrival known, than +all came running down tumultuously to give us welcome: all business was +laid aside to greet our landing, and we were conducted with great +ceremony into the centre of the camp. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIX. + +CONSTRUCTION OF A PA. + + +We found eight hundred warriors, who (to use a sea phrase) were "all at +quarters." The magic pen of Scott might here have been well employed to +describe "The Gathering." The chiefs sat apart from their followers in +deep consultation: we did not approach near enough to hear their +discussion; but it ended by their paying us a high compliment for coming +amongst them. The young and active were busily employed in constructing a +strong stockade fort to annoy the enemy as he approached; others were +preparing their weapons, or practising the use of arms. + +The village itself was an object of extreme interest; and, after +contemplating the war-like preparations of the chiefs, we turned with +pleasure to gaze on the beauty of the surrounding country. In a plain, +surrounded by high hills, with a beautiful stream of water meandering +through it, was situated a group of huts; and many acres of cultivated +ground, neatly fenced and cleared, encircled them. Their harvest, +consisting of Indian corn, potatoes, and kumara, was now ready for +gathering, and all the women were busily occupied. As I from an eminence +looked down upon their labours, I could almost fancy I was in Italy, and +beheld the peasantry at work in their vineyards: but the adjacent camp +and naked warriors soon dissipated the illusion! + +On approaching the village we occasioned quite a commotion: the girls +brought forth baskets filled with cooked kumaras and peaches, while the +men erected a tent to screen us from the rays of the sun: indeed, all +seemed anxious to do something that should prove acceptable to us. We had +brought with us sufficient provision for a good dinner which was soon +cooked, and we invited them to partake of our fare, and a very merry and +noisy group we formed. After our repast, the chief warriors took us round +their camp, and exhibited to us all their means of defence, and the +different works they had thrown up. Where the use of artillery is +unknown, the principles of fortification are simple, and the New +Zealanders seem to possess a clear notion of the art: necessity being +with them the mother of invention. + +In the direction where the approach of the enemy was expected, they had +erected a strong square stockade, to molest the army; while the women and +children retired to the principal fort, which was very strong, and +situated at the summit of the highest hill: it had a breast-work all +round it about five feet high, and a broad ditch beyond that. The +fortress was large enough to contain several hundred men: it had a +spacious glacis in front, and every approach to it was so completely +exposed, that we thought even a body of regular troops, without +artillery, would have found it very difficult to storm; and to the New +Zealand warrior it seemed a wonderful and impregnable work. + +The chief who had the command of this fort was our old acquaintance Kiney +Kiney, a younger brother of King George's, who seemed proud of this +honour, and appeared highly delighted in showing us round, and +explaining everything to us; even condescending to ask our advice as to +any means of adding strength and security to the works. He listened +attentively to all our observations; and if he approved any alteration we +suggested he ordered it instantly to be carried into effect. I noticed a +thicket too near the fort, and told him I thought it might shelter a body +of men, and before I left the pa it was reduced to a heap of ashes. +Sentinels were posted in every direction to give notice of the approach +of an enemy. _Mr._ Kiney Kiney (as he was sometimes called) was +splendidly apparelled on this occasion: he had, by some means or other, +become possessed of a light infantry sabre, with all its paraphernalia of +belts and buckles; this was girded round his naked body, which gave him a +very gallant air, and, I have no doubt, was the envy and admiration of +all his followers. + + + + + +CHAPTER XL. + +A SHAM FIGHT. + + +After we had seen and approved all their preparations, we were treated +with a grand review and sham fight: they divided themselves into two +parties; one half the number took their station on a hill, and lay +concealed; the other party crouched on the plains to receive the attack, +all kneeling on one knee, with their eyes fixed on the spot whence they +expected the rush of their pretended enemies. In a moment, the concealed +party burst forth from their ambush, with a tremendous and simultaneous +shout, and the mock battle began with great fury. + +Nothing in nature can be imagined more horrible than the noise they make +on these occasions. I have heard, under circumstances of some peril, the +North American Indian war-whoop; but that is trifling compared with it +and their countenances are hideous beyond description. My principal +astonishment on these occasions was, that they did not actually kill each +other, or, at least, break each other's bones; for they seemed to strike +with all the fury and vigour of a real engagement; but they kept such +exact time, that at a moment's notice they all left off, and began joking +and laughing, except a very few, whom I observed to sneak away to wash +off some bloody witness, or to put a plaster on their broken skin. + +After these military and gymnastic exhibitions, they formed a grand +assembly, and the chiefs, as usual, made long speeches in rotation. This +rude parliament is one of the most beautiful features in savage +government: all public matters are discussed openly, grievances are +complained of, and justice is summarily administered. + +Thus, after spending a pleasant day, we rose to depart, and took an +affectionate leave of our entertainers, who were most anxious that we +should remain longer; but we thought we had better return to Kororarika, +where our property had been left. Most of the chiefs accompanied us to +our boats, and, after exhibiting various testimonies of their friendly +feeling towards us, they suffered us to depart. + +The day following this visit, we were alarmed by the appearance of two +war canoes crossing the bay: we waited their approach with considerable +anxiety: what few valuables we had with us we concealed about our +persons; but, as they neared our beach, our fears subsided, on finding +there were only a few men in each. Three chiefs (unarmed) landed, whom we +found to be Rivers and two of his near kinsmen, the most dreaded persons +of our expected invaders; but they immediately informed us they came on a +mission of peace, and, for that reason, had come to us unattended and +unarmed. + +We were most happy to hear this, and to find hostilities were again +likely to be deferred. Though we well knew the character of these men, +and that they were capable of the most treacherous acts, and the deepest +dissimulation, yet, their thus throwing themselves into our power, with +the olive branch in their hands, was irresistible; and we received them +with all the pomp we were capable of. We ordered a pig to be killed for +the feast, and requested them to remain for that night. In order to do +honour to our noble guests, and credit to our friend and ally King +George, we produced all the luxuries we had; and, in addition to the +pork, piles of pancakes and molasses were devoured: after this we gave +them tea, of which they are very fond; and, over our pipes, in the +evening, we informed them of the preparations the coalesced chiefs had +made for their reception, had their intentions been hostile. + +The next morning they embarked for the camp at Kawakawa, where, I +understood, they had considerable difficulty in arranging the "treaty of +peace": George having been so often alarmed, now that such great +preparations had been effected (as he well know the treacherous character +of his foe), he was unwilling to give up the hopes of conquest; however, +by the advice of the chiefs, it was finally settled amicably. George and +his friends accordingly returned to Kororarika, leaving a strong party at +the pa to finish the fortifications; and, though peace was made, our +party still kept themselves in a posture of defence. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLI. + +RETURN OF THE BRIG.--AN EXCITING INCIDENT. + + +We had been expecting with great anxiety the return of our brig; and, +soon after the termination of this affair, we had the pleasure of seeing +her enter the bay, after her cruise from Tongataboo and Tucopea. We found +that, on leaving the Bay of Islands, she had touched at the Thames, or +(as the natives call it) Hauraki, in order to land two chiefs, whom +Captain Dillon had taken thence two years before, and, in the confusion +occasioned by the disembarking, the visiting and congratulations of +friends (the vessel being under weigh), one chief was left on board, who +had not been discovered till all the canoes were out of sight, and there +remained no other alternative for him than to proceed on the whole +voyage. + +This was of no importance as it respected Tongataboo or Tucopea; but, on +his return to Kororarika, it was not only placing him, but all of us, in +a dreadful dilemma! His tribe being at deadly enmity with that of George, +the moment he was seen on deck (which was as soon as the vessel arrived), +George and all the men in the various canoes appeared to grow outrageous: +nothing would convince them but that we were in league with their +enemies, and had brought this spy into their territories from interested +motives; and they seemed resolved upon boarding the brig and executing +vengeance upon the unfortunate victim. To all our remonstrances George +replied, "Any other man than this I would have pardoned; but it was only +last year he killed, and helped to eat, my own uncle, whose death still +remains unrevenged: I cannot allow him to leave my country alive; if I +did, I should be despised for ever." + +I was greatly grieved at the circumstance; but, as I was somewhat of a +favourite with George, I succeeded in convincing him that it arose purely +from accident, and no intention of giving him offence; and he consented +to leave him on board, but cautioned us not to allow him to land. "If I +see him on shore he dies," he repeated several times. It would have been +well for us had we attended to this warning: we did not; and we +accordingly infringed on the customs of his country; thus placing +ourselves in a most perilous situation with the natives, and plainly +showing that the imprudence of our countrymen is invariably the cause of +quarrels and misunderstandings with these islanders. + +Some days having passed since this altercation with George, we thought no +more about it. The brig, from various causes, was certain to remain some +time in this harbour; and, as our New Zealand guest expressed a great +desire to go on shore one day, we consented to his accompanying us. We +had scarcely entered our house, when we had reason to repent the +imprudent step we had taken: all the natives were in commotion; +messengers were sent off to George to acquaint him with the circumstance, +and soon after we saw him, attended by all his relations, accoutred for +war; that is, quite naked, their skins oiled and painted, and armed with +muskets. Fury was in their looks and gestures as they hastened towards +our residence. We had scarcely time to shut and fasten our door, when +they made a rush to force it; and we had a severe struggle to keep them +out. At one period their rage became so ungovernable that we expected +every instant they would fire on us for preventing their entrance. The +man who was the cause of all this violence crept into our bedroom, and +kept out of sight; but he did not, at any period of the disturbance, +exhibit the least sign of fear, so accustomed are they from childhood to +these deadly frays. + +When the natives found we would not give up the man, but that they must +murder us before they could accomplish their revenge, the disappointment +rendered them nearly frantic. Our situation was most critical and +appalling; and nothing can be a more convincing proof of the influence +the Europeans have obtained over them, than that, at such a moment, they +should have refrained from setting fire to or pulling down the house, and +sacrificing every one of us. George again remonstrated with us, assuring +us it was his sacred duty to destroy this man, now he was in his +territory; a duty which, he said, he owed to the memory of his murdered +relations, and which must be performed, even though he should sacrifice +his "good English friends." He cautioned us not to stand between him and +his enemy, who must die before the sun set, pointing, at the same time, +to that luminary, and ordering his slaves to kindle a large fire to roast +him on. Finally, he and his friends planted themselves all round the +house to prevent the escape of their victim. Thus were we environed with +fifty or sixty well armed and exasperated savages. + +Our imprudence had given us no other alternative than either to give up +the man, who had put himself under our protection, or still to defend him +at the risk of our own lives: we instantly adopted the latter course. +Fortunately for us, a whaler was lying in the harbour, and a party of her +men were then on shore in the neighbourhood procuring water. We had sent +to them to explain the nature of our situation, and we saw them coming to +our assistance, though the numbers of natives at this time assembled +totally precluded all chance of our getting off by force; and a variety +of schemes were suggested as to how we should save the man's life, and +get clear of this difficulty, without sacrificing the good opinion we +were held in by the natives. + +We were well aware of the great importance it was to George to continue +on friendly terms with the English vessels touching here, as they not +only afforded him various sources of considerable profit, but the +intercourse gave him great importance in the eyes of his countrymen; and +we determined to make this circumstance a means of saving the man's life, +as we suspected that a threat of removing the seat of trade would soon +make him compromise his revenge for his interest. + +We therefore sent him a formal message, that, if he was resolved to kill +his enemy in our house, we had determined not to prevent him, but that we +would not stay to witness such a cruelty; and that we should immediately +remove every thing we possessed on board ship, leave the Bay of Islands, +and seek the protection and shelter of some other chief; and, if he +compelled us to do so, no other British ship would ever be seen at +Kororarika. + +We accordingly ordered the ship's boats ashore, and our things were +quickly conveyed into them. I trembled when I looked on the natives, and +saw the rage depicted on their countenances; and I, trusting in +Providence to avert from me the dreadful death with which I saw myself +threatened, prepared myself for some fatal catastrophe. Tumultuous +discussions ensued, and it at length became difficult for the elders to +restrain the impetuosity of the younger chiefs. Fortunately for us, their +vehement speeches soon produced a violent feud amongst themselves. Mutual +upbraidings took place: each accused the other of being the cause of +quarrel, and the consequent loss of the white men. This was precisely the +state of things we wished for; and, while we were waiting the return of +the last boat, a messenger came from the elder chiefs, to propose an +amicable adjustment of the affair. The chiefs promised that, if we would +reland our goods and remain with them, the man we protected should go +without molestation on board the brig; but, if we persevered in leaving +them, the man should be killed before our eyes. This was what we +expected; and though I really now wished to leave them, being quite tired +of these perpetual broils, we assented, in order that the man's life +might be spared When they found we agreed to their proposal, they +retreated out of sight, thereby carefully avoiding polluting their eyes +by looking upon their enemy. + +No sooner had they disappeared than I visited the poor fellow who had +been the cause of all this disturbance: he seemed half dead with anxiety; +but I soon revived him with the information that all was settled +amicably; and we lost no time in getting him off, which we safely +accomplished, though, as the boat which conveyed him left the shore, a +bullet whizzed close by me, aimed, no doubt, by some young fiery chief, +who had concealed himself in the bushes for that purpose. + +During this transaction I witnessed the natural kindness of heart and +disinterested tenderness of the female sex: no matter how distressing the +circumstance or appalling the danger, they are, in all countries, the +last to forsake man. While the enraged chiefs were yelling outside our +house, and all our exertions could scarcely prevent them from making a +forcible entry, all the women were sitting with, and trying to comfort +the unhappy cause of this calamity. They had cooked for him a delicate +dinner, brought him fruit, and were using every means by which they could +keep up his spirits and buoy up his hopes, confidently assuring him the +white men would not yield him up to his ferocious foes. Notwithstanding +all their exertions, he was miserable, till informed by me of his safety; +and I received the warmest thanks, and even blessings, from his "fair" +friends, as if I had conferred upon each a personal favour. + +The man being now in safety, we determined to demand satisfaction for the +affront which had been put upon us, and we sent George word we could not +again receive him into our house unless he made an ample apology for his +behaviour, painting in strong colours how deeply our feelings had been +wounded, and how much this indignity had lowered us in the esteem of all +our acquaintances. + +After some consultation among their leading men upon the subject of our +message, King George presented himself at the door of our hut, and, in +the most humble manner, surrendered his musket; and shortly after his +brother Kiney Kiney did the same. Thus we gained our point, and received +both payment and apologies for their violent behaviour. Friendship being +thus restored, we soon gave them back their muskets, to their infinite +surprise and satisfaction. + +On reflection, I felt quite convinced that the natives liked us the +better for what we had done: it afforded them also a lesson of humanity, +for they all well knew we had no other object in view when we stood +forward to defend the poor fellow, who had relied upon our promise of +protecting him. Several chiefs told us that they greatly admired our +principles, and should always feel themselves quite safe with men like +us, who would risk their own lives rather than break their word, or +desert a friend in the hour of danger. + +At the close of this eventful day we received another token of peace, +which was in its manner simple and affecting, and not such as could have +been expected from a nation of savages. A procession of young girls +approached our door, each bearing a basket: some were filled with nicely +cooked potatoes, others with various fruits and flowers, which they set +down before us, chanting, in a low voice, a song in praise of our recent +exploit; a man bearing a very large fish closed the procession; he +repeated the song also. We were informed that these presents had been +sent by King George as a ratification of friendship, for the New +Zealanders never think a reconciliation perfected till you have again +eaten and drank with them. + +Two important conclusions may be drawn from the termination of this +affair: first, that if a spirited interference takes place on the part of +the Europeans, murder may be at times prevented, as we actually rescued +a mortal foe from the vengeance of an exasperated enemy; and, secondly, +their efforts to restore amity proves their extreme desire to have white +people settle amongst them. + +About a week after this event we witnessed a most extraordinary ceremony, +which partook more of the ludicrous than the horrible, though I have no +doubt it was regarded by the natives as a most solemn affair. For some +days we had been honoured by the presence of a great priest, or one of +their chief tabooers; he came for the purpose of discussing with the +chiefs the affairs of the nation, particularly the approaching war with +the tribe of the Thames; and the day set apart for the discussion of the +principal points was ushered in by a rich feast, not of pork nor fish, +nor even the kumara, but of two old, sturdy, large dogs! + +I was much surprised on rising one morning to see Kiney Kiney, with +several chiefs of the highest rank, stripped, and performing the offices +of the meanest slave (the washing the feet of the pilgrims by cardinals +and persons of rank in Rome came instantly to my remembrance). These +chiefs were making a fire and cooking. I was still more astonished, on +approaching them, to find the nature of the food they were singeing and +scraping. This bow-wow meat they were preparing after the fashion of +pork: pigs being the only quadruped they have ever seen cooked, they of +course are not acquainted with any other way of dressing the animal +creation, and a sad bungling job they made of it; for the dogs were old +and tough, and the hair adhered most pertinaciously to the skin, and in +many places would not come off. + +There were only five persons allowed to partake of this delicious meal, +which was, as well as the five partakers, strictly taboo'd for the whole +of that day: and we strongly recommended them to hold a similar feast +every day, until they had cleared the country of these canine nuisances, +the dogs being the greatest pests they have. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLII. + +WAR-LIKE EXPEDITION TO THE THAMES. + + +One morning I was roused out of a sound sleep by continued discharges of +musketry from a number of war canoes. I jumped up instantly in alarm; but +I soon discovered them to be Atoi and his party, who had been absent +about two months on a war-like expedition to the Thames, and they were now +returning successful. + +I had witnessed the departure of this expedition, and considered it in +the light of a reconnoitring party. I could not make out what the real +object was they had been in search of; but, wherever they had been, they +had been victorious, for they now returned with quantities of plunder, +human heads, human flesh, and many prisoners! After the dance and sham +fight had been duly gone through, they proceeded to land their cargo of +spoil. First came a group of miserable creatures, women and children, +torn by violence from their native homes, henceforth to be the slaves of +their conquerors; some were miserably wounded and lacerated, others +looked half-starved, but all seemed wretched and dejected. + +The women of Kororarika, with their usual humanity, instantly surrounded +them, and endeavoured to console them, and then shed abundance of tears +over them. I enquired of one of the warriors what they had done with the +male prisoners: he coolly replied, they had all been eaten, except some +"titbits," which had been packed up in the baskets and brought on shore, +in order to regale particular friends and favourites! + +They had also brought with them several heads, which they have the art of +preparing in their native ovens, so as not to disfigure the countenance +nor injure the figure tatoo'd upon them. One of these, the skull of a +distinguished chief, seemed to afford them amazing delight. Most of our +people had known him well, and several of his near relations were +present: but cruel war seemed to have eradicated every feeling of +humanity; for all appeared to contemplate this ghastly object with great +satisfaction. These heads were decorated profusely with yellow and red +ribbons, and with white feathers: they were then stuck upon short poles, +and placed, with great ceremony, in front of the old Queen Turero's +house; who, sitting at the door, received this token of respect with +approval and condescension. + +The group altogether formed an interesting picture of savage manners, in +which ferocity was strongly blended with humanity, for their respect and +devotion to the old sybil was manifested as feelingly as their hatred +towards those whom they call their enemies: in fact, the young warrior +chiefs presenting to her (as was the case with several) their first +spoils of conquest, reminded me of young lions bringing part of the +spoils of the chase to their aged dam. + +In this affray only a few of Atoi's party had been wounded, and +twenty-five of the enemy had been killed. It was a fortunate circumstance +for the wretched prisoners that none of the conquering party had been +killed; for, if that had been the case, there would have been a dreadful +slaughter of the captives on their arrival at the village, an act of +cruelty never dispensed with. This sight I dreaded I should encounter +when I went to witness the disembarkation; but, hoping that my presence +might be some restraint upon their barbarities, I awaited the result with +as much firmness as I was master of. + +[Illustration: Old Pa and Whalers at Bay of Islands.] + + + + + +CHAPTER XLIII. + +VISITS OF WHALERS. + + +Two South Sea whalers were at this time lying in the bay: the Anne, from +London, a full ship; and the Lynx, from Sydney. Since I have been living +here, five vessels of this description have visited us; and many others +would have touched here but for the want of proper regulations, and a +dread of the dispositions of the natives. There being here no +representatives of the British Government, the crews of whalers are often +involved in disputes with the natives. This want of Government support +has also frightened other vessels away; their commanders preferring going +on to Port Jackson, where they half ruin themselves by the unavoidable +expenses they incur. Even when their vessels have anchored here, the +thoughtlessness and eccentricity of this class of men, when they are +under no restraint or control, has sometimes not only led to disputes +with the natives, but with each other, which eventually have proved +equally detrimental. In short, New Zealand is a place of such vast +importance to so many lucrative branches of British trade, that it must +be well worthy the speedy attention of our Government at home. + +We spoke frequently to our friend George, as well as to several other of +their powerful chiefs, respecting the erection of a small fort with a +British garrison, and of permanently hoisting the English flag. They +always expressed the utmost delight at the idea; and, from all I have +seen of them, I feel convinced it would prove a most politic measure. +George (who had visited Port Jackson) said: "This country is finer than +Port Jackson; yet the English go and settle there. Our people are much +better than the black natives of New South Wales, and yet you English +live amongst them in preference to us." + +The ship Anne, Captain Gray, was out three years, and during that period +she never entered a civilised port. She had touched twice at this bay, +and had cruised four months on the coast of Japan, off Timor, through the +Sandwich and Friendly Islands, and passed several times over the Pacific +Ocean, in order to obtain a cargo of sperm oil, which she at length +accomplished; and was at this time here to refit for her voyage home to +England round Cape Horn, having picked up most of her cargo off this +port. + +For twelve years past, notwithstanding all the disadvantages, this has +been the favourite resort for ships in the above-mentioned trade. Here, +surrounded with savages and cannibals, they heave down their vessels, +land the cargoes and stores, and carry on work, both on board and on +shore, in tolerable security. The safety of the harbour, the facility of +wooding and watering, the supplies of pigs and potatoes, tempt them to +run the risk of placing themselves in the power of capricious and +barbarous people. + +It has been imagined that the residence of missionaries would have the +effect of civilising the natives, and adding to the safety of ships +touching here; but experience fully proves the fallacy of such an +expectation. These people, abstracted by their own gloomy reflections, +look with contempt on all who are in the pursuit of "worldly wealth"; and +regard the arrival of a whaler as an enemy coming to interfere with the +spiritual interests of "their flock," as they term the inhabitants, +though I never yet saw one proselyte of their converting. + +They never visit a whaler except on a Sunday, and then it is to beg for +the benefit of their society. It cannot, therefore, be expected that much +sympathy can exist between parties, where the cold formality of one +excites the contempt and disgust of the other. + +The ship Anne, of which I have formerly spoken, arrived here lately from +Wahoo, one of the Sandwich Islands, which possesses the advantage of a +British consul. The pacific disposition and orderly government of the +natives do not require a British garrison, or any war-like force; and of +the excellent effects produced by this representation of our Government +Captain Gray speaks with admiration and enthusiasm. The harbours were +crowded with shipping; houses, nay, even streets, were beginning to +appear; the savage character of the people was gradually subsiding into +industrious and peaceful occupations; and comfort and prosperity were +spreading their benign influence over the whole island: yet Wahoo is not +nearly so well situated as a rendezvous for South Sea whalers as New +Zealand; at least so I have been informed by all the captains of those +ships who have conversed with me on the subject. + +It is rather a remarkable and novel circumstance that the natives, who +have been now for fourteen or fifteen years in close intercourse and +carrying on traffic with Europeans, should not, in the course of that +period, understand the nature and value of money; a laughable instance of +which occurred to us a few days since. A native came to our house with a +serious countenance and business-like manner, and said he wished to +purchase a musket: we asked to see what he had brought in exchange for +one, when, with great ceremony, he produced a copper penny piece in the +way of payment. The poor fellow had, doubtless, seen some one pass a +doubloon, and had mistaken his penny for one; as a doubloon is about the +price given for a musket in our regulated list of charges. We, of course, +refrained from laughter; but he was quite astonished and mortified when +he was made to understand we could not trade with him. He took a stroll +round the beach, offering his penny, by way of barter, to every white man +he met, but everywhere with equally bad success. + + + + +CHAPTER XLIV. + +VISIT OF TWO SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS. + + +When our brig left Tucopea she brought away two natives of that island, +who had most earnestly entreated the captain to take them off, and leave +them upon any other land he pleased, as, according to their statement, +Tucopea was so overstocked with inhabitants that it was scarcely possible +to find subsistence; and the scarcity of food had become so general, that +parents destroyed their children rather than witness their sufferings +from famine. Captain Kent, therefore, from motives of compassion, +received them on board his ship; and, not having touched at any inhabited +spot, brought them with him here. Their extraordinary appearance excited +a great deal of surprise, both among Europeans and New Zealanders. They +appeared simple, timid creatures, though stout and comely, but their hair +was unlike anything I had before beheld, as in length it reached below +the waist, and was so abundantly thick as completely to conceal their +faces. By some curious chemical process which the natives of Tucopea have +discovered, they render their hair a bright sulphur colour; and, as this +mass of yellow hangs over their faces and shoulders, they bear the most +striking resemblance to the lion monkeys of the Brazils. + +These poor creatures, upon landing, shook with fear, and trembled greatly +when they beheld the New Zealanders, whose character for cannibalism had +reached even their remote island: when our friend George went up to them, +and lifted up (in order to examine closely) the curious mass of hair in +which they were enveloped, they burst into a passionate fit of tears, and +ran up to us for protection. The New Zealanders, with characteristic +cunning, perceiving the horror they had created, tormented them still +more cruelly, by making grotesque signs, as if they were about to +commence devouring them; and, at the same time (like most savages), +evincing the most sovereign contempt for them, from their apparent +pusillanimity. + +After they had been some days on shore, we had a very diverting scene +with them, which exhibited strongly the great difference there is in the +nature of the two classes of savages we now had such opportunities of +observing. I had brought my violin from Sydney, on which I used to play +occasionally. The New Zealanders generally expressed the greatest dislike +to it; and my companions used to rally me much on the subject, saying it +was not that the savages did not like music, but it was my discordant +playing that frightened them away, which might be true. It was, however, +a useful discovery for us all, as I often took that method of civilly +driving them out of our house when we grew tired of their company. But +when I began to play before the Tucopeans, the effect it had instantly +upon them was ludicrous in the extreme. They sprang up, and began dancing +most furiously; at the same time, so waving their heads about as to keep +their long hair extended at its fullest length: as I played faster, they +quickened their pace. A lively Scotch reel seemed to render them nearly +frantic; and when I ceased playing, they threw themselves down on the +floor quite exhausted, and unable to articulate a word. I have observed +(generally speaking) that savages are not much affected by music; but +these two Tucopeans were excited to a most extraordinary degree. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLV. + +THE DEATH OF HONGI. + + +We at length received authentic intelligence of the death of the +celebrated Hongi. Finding his dissolution fast approaching, he convened a +meeting of all the neighbouring chiefs; and as many as could reach the +spot in time attended. The wounded warrior expired, surrounded by the men +he had so frequently led to battle and conquest. After the numerous and +desperate risks he had run, the many encounters he had sustained with +various enemies, it appeared extraordinary to us Europeans that he should +die quietly in his hut. It is the custom to keep a guarded and mysterious +silence relating to the subjects which are spoken of by a dying chief. I +questioned several who had attended Hongi: all spoke with the greatest +solemnity of his last moments. One sentence (uttered by him) was all I +could obtain after much manoeuvring, and that was spoken but a few +minutes before he breathed his last, which was, that "Shulitea (viz., our +friend George) would not live one week longer than himself"; but, as our +patron was in perfect health at the time, and all seemed peaceful around +him, I only laughed at the improbability of the prophecy being fulfilled. + +The natives of New Zealand pay the greatest respect to courage and +war-like talents: these were the only distinguishing characteristics of +Hongi; yet, by possessing these, he was more feared, and had a greater +number of followers, than any other chief in the island. His hereditary +possessions were but small, and his name was little known; yet his +undaunted courage, his skill, and success in many sanguinary battles, +made him, at length, a most powerful chief, and obtained for him that +which is considered wealth in this country, namely, an immense number of +slaves. In his last moments he was attended by more men of rank than had +ever before assembled to witness the dissolution of a warrior, and this +is considered the greatest proof of attention and respect one chieftain +can show towards another. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLVI. + +A TRIBAL CONFLICT. + + +Our brig now sailed for Hokianga to take in a cargo of planks; and my +friend, Mr. Shand, being tired of wandering, accompanied her; but I, +being still anxious to procure more sketches of this interesting country, +determined to remain as long as possible, and to take one more walk +across the island, and join the brig by the time she was loaded. I was +preparing to start on my last pedestrian tour, when a chain of events +occurred which threw all the tribes into confusion. Bloodshed and +devastation stared me in the face from all quarters; and from the state +of security I had imagined myself to be in, I was roused to behold myself +beset with difficulties; to crown which, our brig, which would have been +a place of safety and refuge, was now on the opposite side of the island. + +Arising from a trifling circumstance, which was partly caused by us, +though innocently, Pomare's only son had lost his life; and, as is usual +among savage tribes, the severest retaliation soon took place. + +By relating the particulars, the reader will perceive how easily the +war-cry is raised among these turbulent savages. + +Pomare's only surviving son. Tiki, was a very finely-formed, handsome +young man, of twenty years of age, and he had made an arrangement with a +captain of a ship here to supply him with a certain number of hogs. +Accordingly, accompanied by a party of his friends, he started into the +interior for the purpose of collecting them. In making his selection, he +not only proceeded to drive off some of his own, but actually laid claim +to, and began marching away with, some belonging to his neighbours. The +right owners remonstrated with him in vain. He, being an insolent, +over-bearing young fellow, persisted in his unjust claims, and set them +all at defiance. They were compelled to yield up their property, as his +tribe was a most powerful one; and Tiki was driving away the stolen hogs +in triumph, when a sudden stop was put to his predatory career. Finding +words were of no avail to induce the young man to restore the swine, one +of the injured party had recourse to a musket. A bullet, aimed from +behind a tree, killed Tiki on the spot; but from whose hand it came could +only be conjectured. The greatest confusion instantly took place. His +companions, being well armed, the war-cry was immediately raised; and the +fray becoming general, seven more lives were lost. + +When the account of this melancholy affair reached our beach, everyone +flew to arms, even all the women, for the young man was a general +favourite. The war-cry spread in every direction. "Here," they exclaimed, +"is the last of the Pomare family killed treacherously, a warrior related +to and connected with every chief of consequence in the country, and a +nephew of the great Shulitea." The cry for blood and revenge was +universal. I must confess that, added to the danger it placed me in, I +was much shocked when I heard of the fate of poor Tiki, for he was one of +our particular friends, and had passed many an evening in our hut. I had +taken leave of him only the day before, when he had set out, full of +health and spirits, on this hog expedition, which had terminated thus +fatally. + +The death of this young man excited the highest indignation in the minds +of his countrymen, as well as in those of his numerous intimate friends +and relations; for a report was industriously circulated that he had +fallen by the hands of a slave. This was considered by his tribe as a +degradation infinitely worse than the murder itself. The offended chiefs +assembled on our beach, with all their followers, armed: and none +appeared more indignant at the transaction than our friend George, who, +with his brother Kiney Kiney, placed themselves at the head of the party, +to revenge the insult which had been offered them. + +The night before they started on this expedition, George spent the +evening with us. He was in particularly low spirits, and said he did not +at all like the business he was going upon: but, as he was the nearest +relation of the deceased, and the eldest of the tribe, he went in hopes +of being able to prevent a great effusion of blood, and also to restrain +the impetuosity of the young men. Little did we then think he would be +the first victim; although his unusual depression of mind brought to my +remembrance the prophecy of Hongi, and, spite of my endeavours to banish +my forebodings, I felt convinced that the prediction would in all +probability be fulfilled. + +Three days had elapsed from the time the avenging party had gone on their +mission, when, at midnight, a messenger, faint and nearly exhausted, +arrived on our beach with the following dreadful intelligence; and that +night no other sounds were heard than those of agony and woe, the yelling +of women, and the shrieks of slaves. + +The substance of the man's information was, that George and the offending +party had met; but, as several days had passed since the murder of their +friend, their feelings were in some degree appeased, and they had +contented themselves with a general plunder of whatever property their +enemies possessed. They had spared their lives, and the outrage was +considered as atoned for. The chiefs were on their return home, laden +with spoil, when, like other coalesced armies, disagreements began to +take place among themselves, and discord long smothered, broke out in +every quarter of the camp. + +George, the principal person of their party, was the one marked to be +dissatisfied with. All were jealous of him, in consequence of his +possessions at Kororarika giving him such a decided advantage over every +other tribe, by his trade and intercourse with Europeans. It is probable, +also, that as the other tribes went forth with an intention to fight, +they were resolved not to be disappointed, and therefore determined to +create a feud among themselves, rather than return home devoid of the +pleasures or the trophies of a combat. + +Some irritating language had been uttered by both sides, when an accident +of a fatal nature took place, which produced an instantaneous and general +appeal to arms. At the close of the day a halt was made, as usual, and +each party began erecting their temporary huts to pass the night in. One +of George's wives, assisted by a little boy, his nephew, was busily +engaged in constructing one; arms and baggage of every description being +strewed about in all directions. At this period a lad took up one of +George's muskets, and began to play with it; but not understanding the +management of it, he, by his injudicious handling, accidentally +discharged the piece, and killed both the wife and nephew, the ball +passing through both their bodies. + +The sensation produced by this unfortunate accident may readily be +conceived. As the woman who was killed was related to the tribe who had +been disputing with George all day, her death furnished an ostensible +motive for open war; and before the real cause of the accident could be +explained, another shot was fired, which wounded a chief of the name of +Moo-de-wy in the thigh. This proved the signal for a general fight: each +party ran to their arms, ranged themselves under their different leaders, +and a general discharge of muskets immediately took place. + +Almost at the beginning of the combat George received a shot, which broke +both his legs: his brother and friends endeavoured to support him in +their arms. It being then nearly dark, added much to the confusion, as it +was difficult to distinguish friend from foe; indeed, so sudden had been +the onset, that many could scarcely have been aware of the cause of the +contest. But our unhappy friend, who seemed particularly marked out in +this unfortunate affray, soon after received another bullet, which struck +him on the throat, and terminated his existence; thus dying before a week +had passed since the death of his rival Hongi. I heard from one of his +friends who supported him in his last moments, that he died like a hero: +finding both his legs were broken, and that consequently he was totally +unable to move, he begged those friends who were about him to leave him +to his fate, and either again enter the fight, or make their escape +while they yet had time. He then gave his musket to one, took off his +mantle to present to another, and while thus in the act of exhorting his +friends and distributing amongst them his tokens of regard, he received +his death-wound, and expired without a groan. When George fell, a general +flight took place; and though the engagement had lasted but a short time, +great numbers had fallen on both sides. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLVII. + +THE DEATH OF KING GEORGE AND ITS CONSEQUENCES. + + +This news caused mourning and lamentation along our beach, and filled all +the Europeans with dismay. We could not calculate the extent of the +injury we might receive, but felt certain we should be considerable +sufferers in some way or other. The light of day seemed to add to, rather +than to diminish, the moans of George's faithful subjects. The violent +sobbings from every dwelling were most dismal. Groups were scattered +about, forming small crying parties, and cutting their skins deeply with +knives and pieces of broken glass; in short, nothing was heard but +yelling and groaning, and nothing was seen but streams of blood! + +But however shocked I might feel by the train of accidents and deaths +which had made such cruel havoc amongst my friends, and notwithstanding +my sincere grief and regret for the fate of poor George, who was a most +humane and intelligent chief, and particularly kind to all the English; +the predicament in which I was now placed demanded all my energies, for I +felt that I stood in a situation of great danger. + +I have before noticed their barbarous custom, on the death of a chief, of +plundering his family and friends. As we had always been considered as a +part of George's family, living under his protection, adopted by him, +and admitted into his tribe, I entertained great suspicions that we also +should be sufferers by the general plunder about to take place: besides, +I was so circumstanced as to be obliged to cross the country with all my +goods, and my route lay through the territories of all those chiefs who +had been fighting against George; and I was at no loss to guess in what +light they would regard me. Depending, too securely, on the general +tranquility, I had not sent my luggage by sea, as I might have done, and +which would have saved me great anxiety, as I should have ventured alone +without fear, but could not manage to carry what I possessed; and to +engage any to convey them was an impossibility, for the moment I made the +proposition to any (even the meanest of the slaves) to accompany me, they +ran off into the bush, nor could any entreaty, presents, or threats +induce them to venture with me; so, for security, I removed all the +property I had, and went with it on board the Marianne, whaler. + +For three days after the death of George, all gave themselves up to +grief; no work was done, and not an individual was to be seen but in an +agony of tears. I began to feel strangely affected with melancholy +myself, when, on the fourth morning, a scene of bustle took place, and +low spirits were banished by tumult, noise, and confusion. + +At six o'clock on that morning we discovered upwards of twenty sail of +war canoes, crowded with armed warriors, coming into the bay. What their +intentions were we could not imagine; but for fear of the worst, the +ships in the harbour shotted their guns, and when the canoes were abreast +of us, we fired a blank one over their heads. On this they all stopped, +and we saw some stir amongst them: at length a very small canoe left the +main body, and pulled directly towards us; it contained the chief persons +of the expedition: they came on board, and assured us they meant no harm +to any persons; they were merely some of the late George's friends, who +were going to pay a visit of condolence to his relations; and, after +making a most hearty breakfast with us, they went on shore, and we +accompanied them. + +Whether the account they gave of themselves was correct, or the reverse, +we knew not at the time; but we felt assured their intentions were not +hostile towards us Europeans, and their quarrels with each other we were +determined not to interfere in. We soon discovered their falsehood, for +George's eldest daughter informed me that amongst the chiefs who landed +with us were several of the most inveterate foes of her father, and that +they were only restrained from committing the most dreadful outrages, and +carrying off all her relations as slaves, by witnessing the many friends +of George by whom they were surrounded. The day was spent in savage +dancing, yelling, making speeches, and debating as to who the proper +person was to succeed George in his dignities: several times I thought +the affair would end in blows. George's relation, Rivers, made great +exertions "to keep the peace," and finally, by force of argument, +succeeded. It was at length unanimously agreed that Kiney Kiney was to +succeed his brother, and that Rivers should take the command until the +time of Kiney Kiney's mourning for the loss of George should be +completed. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLVIII. + +DEPARTURE FROM BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +After these important matters were amicably disposed of, I made a sign to +Rivers, and, separating him from the crowd, I explained to him the nature +of my situation, and asked his assistance in getting me safely over to +Hokianga. He replied, there would certainly be great danger in attempting +it; but I soon discovered that he magnified the difficulties in order to +increase his demand for payment, for even the greatest chiefs have here +their price. He said (and I had every reason to think he was correct) +that I ran no risk of being molested by any chiefs, like himself, who +would always protect rather than molest every European; but that the +country being in such a state of commotion, in consequence of the late +events, it was full of runaway slaves, who always took advantage of such +times to make their escape; and if I chanced to fall in with any of them, +I should be exposed to great peril: "However (he added), keep up your +spirits; I have two confidential slaves, who shall conduct you over, and +carry your luggage, if you will make me a present of a stocking full of +powder, a bag of small shot, and a powder-horn." He also proposed, as he +himself was going to the Kirikiri, and thence to a village in the +interior, to meet a large assemblage of chiefs, in order to talk over the +late tragical events, that I should journey the first part of my way +with him, in his own canoe. + +Accordingly, after having made preparations for my departure, I took +leave of all my friends at the Bay of Islands, both civilised and savage. +I must say I felt considerable regret when I found myself really going to +take final leave of several native families, with whom I had been on +terms of intimacy since my residence here, from whom I had received many +proofs of personal regard, and whom, I felt convinced, I should never +meet or hear of more; none I regretted parting with more than the family +of poor Shulitea; the mere sight of me seemed to rekindle all their grief +for the loss of their kinsman, and to remind them more forcibly than ever +of his tragical fate. His mother, old Turero, in point of grief, had +rivalled Niobe; she had never ceased weeping and lamenting from the time +she heard of her son's death, and had twice attempted to strangle +herself. But even in the midst of her passionate sorrow, I could scarcely +refrain from laughing, while observing her care and anxiety to get all +she could from me. After deploring the sad fate of her dear son, "You +know," she continued, "you promised him that you would send him a +handsome new musket from Sydney; and now, poor fellow, he is dead; and +cannot shoot with it; but then you must remember that his brother Kiney +Kiney is still alive, and he can shoot with it; and poor George would +wish that his brother should have his new musket." This speech I felt +quite irresistible; therefore, in order to comfort the old queen, I +promised that I would send the musket for her second son; which +declaration seemed to afford her great consolation, and considerably +abated the violence of her grief. + +Just at the dawn of morning we started from the bay in Rivers' canoe, +accompanied by his wife, one child, and the two stout slaves he had +mentioned to me. My luggage, which consisted of one leathern portmanteau +and my bed, was placed in the centre. I had also provided myself with a +small basket of cooked meat, with bread, and a small bottle of brandy, +which was given me by the captain of one of the whalers. The day broke +around us with more than usual brightness; the dewy mists of night were +just rising from the waters, and the huge and abrupt forms of the +mountains were beginning to develop themselves; flights of wild ducks and +stray birds skimmed rapidly by us. The thoughts that crowded my mind were +strange and varied, while contemplating scenes of such tranquil beauty as +were now presented, glowing with the tints of the rising sun. I +contrasted these with the difficulties and dangers I might have to +encounter from hordes of ferocious savages, who, now flushed with +conquest, were plotting murder and destruction against each other: even a +glance at my companions banished all peaceful illusions. While the wife, +son, and slaves were using the paddles with the greatest exertions, +Rivers was carefully examining his weapons. The beauty of the morning and +the romantic scenery was unnoticed: his thoughts were directed solely to +contemplating the depth and the width of my stocking of powder, which +seemed to afford him infinite satisfaction. He had with him a beautiful +double-barrelled gun, and a very good Tower musket; and seeing so many +wild ducks fly past, he drew the bullet out of one of the barrels of the +former, and, with some of my stock of small shot, fired occasionally +amongst them. + +At about eight o'clock a light sea breeze sprang up: they then set their +sail, and all went to sleep, excepting one slave, who was employed to +steer the canoe; so that I had ample time to ruminate upon my solitary +and perilous situation. The tide failed us at twelve o'clock, and we then +went on shore, kindled a fire, and soon collected such a supply of +shell-fish as furnished us a splendid repast. Here we remained till the +flood-tide set in strong, when, again hoisting our sail, we arrived at +the Kirikiri about sunset. + +I here found the missionaries in the greatest consternation and dismay, +and learned that it was one of the chiefs of Hokianga who had shot +George, and they dreaded lest the result of that deed should be that the +whole of the savage tribes on that part of the island would be opposed to +each other; that combats would ensue; and which side soever might be +victorious, it would prove equally injurious to them, as they had +settlements on both sides of the island. But their greatest alarm was +occasioned by their possessions at Hokianga, as the most violent +depredations were there being committed; and as this was the very point +of my destination, the news was not very consolatory to me. "So anxious," +said one of "the brethren" to me, "were we to inform our Christian +brethren of our danger, that we actually gave a _warm piece_ to a native +to carry a letter over to you, although that is strictly contrary to our +orders." I expressed a desire to know what he meant by a _warm piece_; he +kicked his foot against the stock of a gun I had at the time in my hand; +and, looking at me with an expression of the greatest contempt, said, "It +is what _you worldly_ folks call a musket!" + +They were making considerable preparations to repair to the great meeting +of the chiefs, to which Rivers was journeying. This was a wise and +politic measure for them to pursue; and they were highly delighted to +have such an addition to their party as this well-known chief; and though +they would not acknowledge it, their satisfaction was very visible. I +earnestly requested them to inform me candidly, from all they had heard, +whether they thought I might, with safety, venture across the country; +but I could get nothing from them but vague and mysterious answers: one +thing, however, they made me very clearly understand; which was, that +they neither cared for me nor for my drawings; that their own safety +engrossed all their thoughts; and that a worldly-minded, misguided +creature like me was but as dust in the balance, compared to such godly +people as themselves, who were now placed in jeopardy. They, without +scruple, applied quotations from the Scriptures to themselves, such as, +"Why do the heathen so furiously rage," etc., etc. + +My necessities compelled me to request a favour from them, which was, +that they would allow one of their boys, who could speak English, to +accompany me, as our loads were heavy; and his being known to belong to +their establishment I thought might be some protection; but the short +answer of the monosyllable "_No_" soon made me repent having asked it. I +spread my bed in one of their empty rooms; and started at daybreak next +morning, with my two native slaves. I could not banish from my +remembrance the inhospitable conduct of these missionaries; they never +even inquired whether I had any provision for a journey they themselves +would not have dared to undertake, which was evident by their giving a +native a _warm piece_ for merely taking a letter for them. As my shoes +were nearly worn out, and I had a long distance to go, over execrable +roads, I had intended asking them for a new pair, as they had abundance +of everything of the kind sent to them from England, to distribute to the +needy (and I fully came under that description of character); but finding +them so selfish and cold-hearted, and meeting with one refusal, I +refrained, and set off, literally almost barefooted. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLIX. + +THE JOURNEY TO HOKIANGA. + + +We journeyed on all day by a road I had never been before, my attendants +evidently taking by-paths to avoid meeting stragglers or runaways. I was +well laden, having to carry my musket and my basket of provisions; and +each of my men, in addition to the loads I had placed on his shoulders, +bore a basket of potatoes. Once or twice, during our route, we saw some +persons at a distance, and I was sorry to notice the great alarm it +occasioned to my companions, as I now had every reason to apprehend, +that, in case of danger, they would slip off their burdens, make their +escape, and leave me and my baggage to my fate, which the missionaries +had told me they considered a thing very likely to happen. Once we heard +a great firing of muskets, which I afterwards ascertained to be the _feu +de joie_ fired at the first meeting of the chiefs, at their grand +assembling in the neutral village. + +At night, we arrived safe at Patuone's Village, where I had slept on my +first journey across the island; but it now presented a very different +appearance to what it had done then; instead of the tumult I had formerly +heard, all was silence; the numerous families then there, all fully +occupied, were exchanged for a few old surly-looking slaves, and the +huts were all deserted. The inhabitants, in consequence of the rumour of +approaching war, having betaken themselves to one of their fortified pas, +I had no alternative but to pass the night with these suspicious-looking +creatures, who, feeling themselves beyond the control of their cruel +masters, soon gave way to their own vile passions, and became most +impertinent and intrusive--taking every advantage of my loneliness to +indulge their curiosity and familiarity. + +On my arrival, I had deposited my things in one of the empty huts, and +spread my bed, hoping to enjoy the luxury of a few hours' repose after +the fatigue and great anxieties of the day; but these fellows would force +themselves into the hut I had chosen, where they lighted a fire, and sat +chattering around it all the night long. Finding that I did not appear +alarmed at their intrusion or noise, they kept doing everything they +could think of to rouse my fears. They threatened to break open my +portmanteau; and one old wretch sharpened his knife, and made motions as +though he were going to cut my throat and eat me. I knew my only chance +of safety was not to betray any sign of apprehension; so I forced a +laugh, and made them believe I considered their tricks an excellent joke. +I gave them all my tobacco to keep them in good humour; but I passed a +most miserable night, nearly suffocated with smoke, distracted with their +noise, and annoyed by vermin of every description. + +I was most happy when daybreak gave me an excuse for leaving these brutal +savages, and resuming my journey. Every step I took brought before me +proofs of the horrors of war: villages which had been crowded, were now +entirely desolate, and, in many instances, burned to the ground. On that +spot where I had left a party of enterprising Scotchmen busily employed +in sawing timber, with crowds of natives assisting them, all was quiet +and totally deserted, with the exception of a few nearly starved, +wretched-looking dogs, who, hearing someone approach, came out, and tried +to bark at us, but were too weak to utter a sound. + + + + + +CHAPTER L. + +EUROPEAN PREPARATIONS FOR DEFENCE. + + +Our march along the banks of the river was through a most beautiful +country; but all the inhabitants had fled; their plantations were in a +most luxuriant state; fields which I had left bare and uncultivated were +now covered with Indian corn standing higher than my head, the ripe ears +hanging fantastically in all directions, and none to gather in the +harvest; the crops of kumara and potatoes were equally abundant. I could +not help thinking that, if they expected an invasion of their enemies, +they had left an ample supply of forage for their use. In the evening I +arrived at Horeke, or Deptford Dock-yard (of which I made mention in my +first journey). I here found my countrymen in a state of considerable +embarrassment. The various chiefs of that district had encamped all round +them; so near to them had they taken up their position, that, whatever +might be the result of their battles, the European settlement would be in +danger. The settlers had fortified their place of refuge in the best +manner they could; and all were determined to defend themselves and +property to the last. They had four nine-pounders mounted on a hill, and +a tolerable battery made of three-inch pine stuff. + +Before the English erected their fortifications, there was a great +difference of opinion amongst them as to the propriety and utility of +adopting so strong a measure, and the affair was finally put to the vote, +when the majority proved to be in favour of a strong resistance. I +opposed the measure all I could, for I felt convinced that in the event +of our allies being worsted we all should be involved in one common +massacre; whereas, if no resistance was made, plunder alone would have +been the extent of the injury we should suffer; and even of that taking +place I had strong doubts. However, as my opinion was overruled, I had to +submit, which I did unhesitatingly; and, like a good soldier, I held +myself in readiness in case of an attack. + +The proprietor and manager of the Dock-yard possessed certainly a +"satisfying reason" for striving to defend himself at all hazards. The +vessel I had left here, on my former visit, in frame, was now nearly +completed, and a most beautiful one she was. He told me he would much +rather part with life than see her destroyed; and I confess I could fully +enter into his feelings on the subject; but as I had no such object at +stake, and was not quite enthusiastic enough to fight for a vessel I had +no share in, I felt very much inclined to let the natives war among +themselves without interference; but as we Europeans had agreed to assist +each other, I would not be behind-hand. + +I discharged Rivers' two slaves, and rewarded them liberally for +conducting me with safety through such a wild and perilous country; they +departed (after expressing the heartiest wishes for my reaching my own +home in safety, and thanks for my generosity) to join their master at the +great meeting of the chiefs in the interior. These men, while assisting +me, were performing a great service to their master, by acting as spies. +When we started from the Kirikiri each was armed with a musket; but when +we had accomplished about half the journey, they concealed these in a +hollow tree, under pretence of extreme fatigue. I felt convinced at the +time that was not their real reason for so doing; and afterwards I +learned the true motive. Had they been found armed when returning to +their master (who was hostile to those assembled round the Dock-yard), +they would have been detained; but, by their coming unarmed amongst us, +they were suffered to depart; and I have no doubt the information they +carried back to Rivers was very important. I did not mention to anyone +the hiding of these muskets in the woods, though, according to "The +Articles of War," I ought to have done so, as getting possession of them +would have added two more to our strength, and lessened that of our +enemy; my silence arose from a repugnance I felt to betray these poor +creatures, who had behaved so well to me. + +Although prepared for war, we were very well pleased to find no attack +was made upon us. Indeed, from the first, it had been my decided opinion, +that unless we interfered, and made ourselves by that means obnoxious, +they had too much respect for us, and were too anxious to retain our +kindly feelings towards them, to molest us; at the same time, I felt that +it might be a very politic measure to show them what powerful resistance +we could make, if driven to extremities. + +After passing a week of the greatest anxiety, on account of our expected +invasion, it afforded us the utmost satisfaction to receive a visit from +Mr. Hobbs, the Wesleyan missionary, one of the persons who had visited +the war-camp of the assembled chiefs, who were convened, on the death of +our lamented friend George, to debate and decide upon the momentous +question of peace or war. + +The subject (our informant stated) had been gone into at great length, +and stormy and fierce had been the discussion. Finally, the good sense of +the elder and more experienced chiefs prevailed over the fiercer passions +of the younger, and peace was decided upon. This event forms a new era in +"The Political History of the Few Zealanders," it being the first time so +great an assemblage had met to discuss openly a national question, or in +which they had allowed cool reasoning and good sense to prevail over +their habitual ferocity. As may naturally be supposed, where such various +interests were at stake, this pacific measure was not effected without +considerable opposition from the young and furious chiefs. The +provocations given by them to the elders, whose voices were for peace, +were considerable. They did not confine themselves to abuse, but fired +several muskets during debate, in hopes that one shot out of the many +might prove fatal; which, if it had, and any distinguished chief had been +killed, or even wounded, it would have immediately thrown all into +confusion. Even when pacific measures were decided upon by a very large +majority, and the chiefs were about to separate, a bullet was fired from +the pa, which had evidently been aimed at a chief, a well-known ally of +the late Shulitea, as it fell at his feet, and the earth it threw up fell +upon him. For a few seconds surprise kept all silent; but, as the angry +chief rose up, and was about to address the crowd, his friends eagerly +surrounded him, and hurried him away. + +This was the first instance on record, in which these people had laid a +statement of their private wrongs before a public assembly consisting of +deputies from every part of the island, and abided by the decision of the +majority; and it was the only instance of a chief being killed in battle, +and his decease not having been followed up by the plundering and +destruction of his whole family or tribe. + +This had been a question of peculiar interest to us Europeans, as several +of their great men had fallen in a skirmish (whether an accidental one or +a decided combat made not the slightest difference). We knew their +barbarous custom; and, consequently, we were preparing for scenes of +deadly revenge and insatiable fury to be acted by both parties, and which +must have involved all settled here in destruction. Our feelings may +therefore be imagined, when we were informed that a parliament had been +convened, and all the parties interested were present by invitation, and +took part in the debate. A central spot was fixed on to accommodate the +various chieftains. The causes of the accident were then explained; they +wept and lamented the fallen chiefs, and finally retired satisfied to +their several homes. Surely everyone who is interested in tracing our own +form of government, from the present time up to its first rude outline, +will perceive the similarity of causes and events, and will anticipate +the glorious prospect of beholding a clever, brave, and, I may add, noble +race of men, like the New Zealanders, rescued from barbarism. This +pacific and rational discussion among the chiefs seems, in reality, to +give promise of the germ of a regular reform. Should a few more such +meetings take place, and terminate in the same amicable manner (and I +think it very probable), some clever individual may rise up amongst them, +take the reins in his own hands, and establish something like a regular +form of government. + + + + + +CHAPTER LI. + +OBSERVATIONS ON THE SOCIAL CONDITIONS OF THE MAORIS. + + +Feeling that I was not likely now to be called upon to act offensively, I +considered myself at liberty to make numerous excursions round our +fortress, not only to admire this fertile and beautiful country, but to +visit some of my old friends. I was very much astonished and shocked at +seeing several very beautiful young women, whom I left only a few months +back in perfect health and strength, now reduced to mere "living +skeletons," and also to hear of the death of others by consumption. This +disease seems to be the scourge of the young; and when they are once +seized with its symptoms, they are very speedily brought to the grave. +The natives say, "It is Atua, the Great Spirit, coming into them, and +eating up their inside; for the patient can feel those parts gradually go +away, and then they become weaker and weaker till no more is left; after +which the Spirit sends them to the happy island." They never attempt any +means of curing or of alleviating the pains caused by this cruel +complaint; and all those under its influence are tabooed. I procured from +the brig all my remaining stores of tapioca, sago, arrowroot, and sugar, +and distributed them in the best way I could amongst my sick friends. +They were anxious for wine; but that portion of my sea-stock, as well as +spirits, had been long since expended. + +It seems unaccountable that the natives of an atmosphere so dry as this +is--a country in which there are no marshy bogs, and where, though there +is an abundance of water, it is generally seen in clear and sparkling +rills rushing down from the mountains into the rivers--should be subject +to so fatal a disease as galloping consumption. The only cause to which I +can attribute such an affliction is, their indifference to lying out all +night exposed to every change of weather--to cold and rain--which, in +young and tender constitutions, must produce the most pernicious +consequences. If some few are rendered hardy and robust by this process, +many, no doubt, are killed by it. I endeavoured to impress on the minds +of all my female friends the great danger of thus exposing themselves to +cold; but they only laughed at my precautions, and said, "If Atua wished +it, so it must be; they could not strive with the Great Spirit." + +I have heard so much said about the great impropriety of the white +settlers admitting the native females into their society, so much of the +scandalous conduct of captains of ships suffering their men to have +sweethearts during their stay in port, and so much urged in justification +of the indignation shown by the missionaries when this subject is touched +on by them, that I feel it necessary to state one decided benefit which +has resulted from that intercourse, and which, in my opinion, far more +than counterbalances the evil against which there has been raised so loud +an outcry. + +Before our intercourse took place with the New Zealanders, a universal +and unnatural custom existed amongst them, which was that of destroying +most of their female children in infancy, their excuse being that they +were quite as much trouble to rear, and consumed just as much food, as a +male child, and yet, when grown up, they were not fit to go to war as +their boys were. The strength and pride of a chief then consisted in the +number of his sons; while the few females who had been suffered to live +were invariably looked down upon by all with the utmost contempt. They +led a life of misery and degradation. The difference now is most +remarkable. The natives, seeing with what admiration strangers beheld +their fine young women, and what handsome presents were made to them, by +which their families were benefited, feeling also that their influence +was so powerful over the white men, have been latterly as anxious to +cherish and protect their infant girls as they were formerly cruelly bent +on destroying them. Therefore, if one sin has been, to a certain degree, +encouraged, a much greater one has been annihilated. Infanticide, the +former curse of this country, and the cause of its scanty population, a +crime every way calculated to make men bloody-minded and ferocious, and +to stifle every benevolent and tender feeling, has totally disappeared +wherever an intercourse has taken place between the natives and the crews +of European vessels. + +The New Zealand method of "courtship and matrimony" is a most +extraordinary one; so much so, that an observer could never imagine any +affection existed between the parties. A man sees a woman whom he fancies +he should like for a wife; he asks the consent of her father, or, if an +orphan, of her nearest relation, which, if he obtains, he carries his +"intended" off by force, she resisting with all her strength; and, as the +New Zealand girls are generally pretty robust, sometimes a dreadful +struggle takes place; both are soon stripped to the skin, and it is +sometimes the work of hours to remove the fair prize a hundred yards. If +she breaks away, she instantly flies from her antagonist, and he has his +labour to commence again. We may suppose that if the lady feels any wish +to be united to her would-be spouse, she will not make too violent an +opposition; but it sometimes happens that she secures her retreat into +her father's house, and the lover loses all chance of ever obtaining her; +whereas, if he can manage to carry her in triumph into his own, she +immediately, becomes his wife. The women have a decided aversion to +marriage, which can scarcely be wondered at, when we consider how they +are circumstanced. While they remain single, they enjoy all the +privileges of the other sex; they may rove where they please, and bestow +their favours on whom they choose, and are entirely beyond control or +restraint; but when married their freedom is at an end; they become mere +slaves, and sink gradually into domestic drudges to those who have the +power of life and death over them; and whether their conduct be criminal +or exemplary, they are equally likely to receive a blow, in a moment of +passion, of sufficient force to end life and slavery together! There are +many exceptions to this frightful picture; and I saw several old couples, +who had been united in youth, who had always lived in happiness together, +and whose kind and friendly manner towards each other set an example well +worthy of imitation in many English families. + + + + + +CHAPTER LII. + +A MAORI TANGI. + + +April 2nd.--This day, perceiving that an unusual number of canoes were +passing up the river, all proceeding towards the village of Par-Finneigh, +we hailed one; and, upon its coming alongside, we inquired what had +occurred, for every appearance of bustle or commotion amongst this +restless and war-like people is truly alarming. They informed us that the +great chief A-Rowa, who died four months since, and the ceremony of whose +"lying in state" I had been permitted by his eldest son to be a witness +of, was this day to be exposed to the view of his friends; was to be +cried over; and was finally to be deposited in the tomb of his ancestors. +As this was one of their imposing spectacles which I had never yet seen, +I was anxious to witness it. We soon got a boat ready, and a party of us +joined the throng, and proceeded with them to the village. Upon our +arrival thither, we found an immense concourse of people assembled; for +here, as in most uncivilised or early states of society, the disposition +and good qualities of the deceased are made known by the number of +friends and followers who meet at his funeral. As these New Zealanders +were all fully equipped in arms, they had more the appearance of a +hostile meeting in an enemy's camp, than of a group of mourners about to +be occupied in the melancholy duty of depositing out of sight for ever +the last remains of a beloved chief. + +Mooetara, the son and successor of the deceased, came to meet us on the +beach, and seemed much gratified by our attention, our appearance on this +solemn occasion giving him importance in the eyes of all the natives then +assembled. He gave orders for our being conducted with much ceremony to +the place of mourning, where, amidst a number of uncouth pieces of +carving (which, we were informed were all tombs reared in honour of the +memory of several former chiefs, and all tabooed), was erected a small +hut, covered in at the top with thatch, but open at the sides. In the +centre of this hut the bones of the deceased chief were exposed to view. +After having undergone the process of decomposition during four months' +exposure to heat, wind, and rain, they had been collected, cleaned, and +decorated with a quantity of fresh white feathers, which rendered the +appearance of the skull still more frightful. + +The women here invariably perform the parts of chief mourners; a group of +them, with the widow of the deceased at their head, kept up a most +mournful cadence, and at every pause in their dismal song slashed their +skins with a piece of shell, till their faces, necks, and arms were +literally streaming down with blood. This mourning and cutting is +completely a matter of business, and is sometimes carried on without +their feeling any real sorrow or sympathy. Parties kept arriving, and +when there was not room for them to thrust themselves round the hut, they +sat down in groups, perfectly unconcerned, employing themselves in +cleaning their firelocks, or playing off upon each other some practical +joke; but the moment a vacant space was presented near the hut, they +deliberately stripped themselves, put on a most sorrowful countenance, +and, seating themselves as near to the ornamented bones as possible, they +immediately began their howling and slashing; no one seemed to like the +idea of being outdone by his neighbour; but when the time allotted to +this ceremony had expired, all instantly jumped up, wiped themselves, put +on their mats, and joined the busy throng. There was, indeed, one real +mourner, who never moved from the bones, nor once lifted up her eyes from +them; she neither howled nor cut herself, and yet she inspired me with +pity and commiseration for her forlorn state. This woman had been the +only wife of the late chief; and I was informed they had lived many years +together, and had a large family; she looked as if she herself was on the +very brink of the grave. The contemplation of the mouldering remains of +her partner through life must have been, even to her savage mind, most +lacerating. + +After witnessing several parties perform their funeral ceremonies, and +imbibing, in some degree, the melancholy tone of mind such a sight must +necessarily create, we arose and joined Mooetara. Here I witnessed a +scene that reminded me of an English country fair. An immense number of +temporary huts had been erected for the accommodation of the chiefs and +their families, where they might repose after their exertions, while +their slaves cooked their provisions, of which an abundant quantity had +been provided, consisting of piles of kumara and Indian corn, with heaps +of fish, which were served out, to all who came for them, with a most +liberal hand, and which, of course, added not a little to the pleasure of +the day. After all had satisfied their hunger (and even the lowest slaves +were permitted, on this occasion, to have as much as they wished for) +they jumped up, flew to their muskets, and commenced their war dance with +great noise and vigour. The violence of their exertions caused their +recent wounds to bleed afresh, and added much to the horror of their +hideous grimaces. They then divided into two parties, and had a sham +battle. I must here do justice to the temperate habits of my savage +friends. During my residence in New Zealand, I have known but very few +who were addicted to drinking, and I scarcely ever saw one of them in a +state of intoxication; and, on this occasion, where a profusion of what +they esteem delicacies was provided gratuitously, they partook so +moderately of the tempting fare as not to be prevented using the most +violent exertions immediately after their meal. The entertainment being +now over, the different parties gathered up what remained of the portions +of food distributed to them, and without taking any leave of their +entertainer, or returning any thanks for his bountiful providing, they +all entered their canoes and paddled away. + + + + + +CHAPTER LIII. + +CHARACTER OF THE NEW ZEALANDERS. + + +An unfortunate prejudice has gone forth into the world against the +natives of New Zealand, which I have always endeavoured to counteract +from a sense of justice, and, from a careful review of those +circumstances which have fallen immediately under my own observation; +this prejudice has long retarded our knowledge of their true character, +but error must gradually give way to truth; and as the circumstances +which first brought the stigma upon their name come to light, and are +investigated and properly explained, I feel confident the conduct of +these islanders will be found superior to that of any other nation in the +South Seas. If we take the whole catalogue of dreadful massacres they +have been charged with, and (setting aside partiality for our own +countrymen) allow them to be carefully examined, it will be found that we +have invariably been the aggressors; and when we have given serious cause +of offence, can we be so irrational as to express astonishment that a +savage should seek revenge? The last massacre was that of "The Boyd's" +crew; every impartial person who reads the account of that melancholy +transaction must acknowledge the unfortunate captain was most to blame. +But that event took place nineteen years back; since which time they know +us better, and respect us more; in proof of which, four years since, The +Mercury brig was taken possession of by a crowd of natives, after they +had endured a series of offences and every kind of ill-treatment; but the +difference in their fate, compared with that of The Boyd's ship's +company, was remarkable, and proved that the savage temper of the natives +was much softened down and humanised, as they merely plundered the +vessel, but made no attempt to murder or molest any of the crew, who, if +they had possessed sufficient courage, would not have sacrificed their +vessel; but, being terrified, they abandoned her, and she was finally +wrecked. During my residence, I never heard of one of the men having been +murdered; and I feel fully convinced no massacres will ever again be +committed in any of the ports in New Zealand where European vessels have +been accustomed to anchor. + +I once saw, with indignation, a chief absolutely knocked overboard from a +whaler's deck by the mate. Twenty years ago so gross an insult would have +cost the lives of every individual on board the vessel, but, at the time +this occurred, it was only made the subject of complaint, and finally +became a cause of just remonstrance with the commander of the whaler. The +natives themselves (and I have heard the opinions of various tribes) have +invariably told me that these things occurred from our want of knowledge +of their laws and customs, which compelled them to seek revenge. "It +was," they said, "no act of treachery on our part; we did not invite you +to our shores for the purpose of plunder and murder: but you came, and +ill-used us; you broke into our tabooed grounds. And did not Atua give +those bad white men into the hands of our fathers?" + +I am confident that a body of Europeans may now reside in perfect +security in any part of these islands. The late plundering of the +missionaries at Whangaroa was a peculiar circumstance, which might have +happened even in civilised Europe, had the seat of war approached so near +their place of residence. If their houses and chapel had been on the +plains of Waterloo during the June of 1815 they would not have +experienced a better fate. + +This recent tumult has brought a circumstance into notice highly +interesting to all who may hereafter wish to settle here. It has hitherto +been their custom, when an accident occurs, such as the sudden death of a +chief, to make a general plunder of everything belonging to the family of +the deceased, and all under their protection. A knowledge of this +horrible custom has deterred many from settling in New Zealand; and even +those who have resolved to run so great a risk have lived in a continued +state of alarm, lest the death of their protecting chief should leave +them at the mercy of a savage enemy. + +The deaths of Hongi and Shulitea placed the missionaries and all the +settlers on Kororarika Beach in considerable jeopardy: but it appeared as +if reason had begun to dawn on the minds of these benighted savages, for +this unjust and cruel custom was now for the first time discontinued. I +was on the beach at the time when an immense party, well armed, came for +the express purpose of satiating their revengeful feelings. I had taken +the precaution of removing what I possessed on board a whaler then lying +in the harbour. The chiefs first sat down to discuss the matter over +amongst themselves, and their deliberations ended in their being +satisfied with destroying the village of Matowe, the one adjoining ours, +and which had been the residence of Pomare's son, whose death was the +cause of all the late turbulent events. + +The great and leading defect in this country, and the principal cause of +their frequent wars and disturbances, which harass and depopulate the +tribes, and puts a stop to all improvement, is the want of some regular +system of government. There are only two classes of people--chiefs and +slaves; and, as consanguinity constitutes a high claim, the eldest son of +a large family, who can bring the greatest number of warriors of his own +name into the field, is considered the chief of that district or tribe; +and as he, by reason of his followers, can take possession of the +greatest number of prisoners or slaves, he becomes the ruling man. Every +other man of his tribe considers himself on an equality with him in +everything, except that he shows him obedience, and follows him to +battle. + +Each is independent in his own family, and holds uncontrolled power of +life and death over every individual it contains. They seem not to +exercise any coercion over the younger branches of a family, who are +allowed unbounded liberty till the girls have sweethearts and the boys +are strong enough to go to war. They are kind and hospitable to +strangers, and are excessively fond of their children. On a journey, it +is more usual to see the father carrying his infant than the mother; and +all the little offices of a nurse are performed by him with the tenderest +care and good humour. In many instances (wherein they differ from most +savage tribes) I have seen the wife treated as an equal and companion. In +fact, when not engaged in war, the New Zealander is quite a domestic, +cheerful, harmless character; but once rouse his anger, or turn him into +ridicule, and his disposition is instantly changed. A being, whose +passions have never been curbed from infancy, and whose only notion of +what he conceives to be his right is to retaliate for an offence with +blood, must naturally form a cruel and vindictive character. Such these +islanders seemed to us on our first visiting them. The sight of beings so +extraordinary (for thus we Europeans must have appeared to them) excited +in their savage minds the greatest wonder; and they thought we were sent +as a scourge and an enemy; and though Cook, one of their earliest +visitors, adopted every method his ingenuity could devise to conciliate +them, yet, as they never could thoroughly understand his intentions, they +were always on the alert to attack him. Hence arose the horror and +disgust expressed formerly at the mere mention of the name of "a New +Zealander." + +I have often tried, in vain, to account for there being such a decided +dissimilarity between the natives of New Holland and New Zealand. So +trifling is the difference in their situation on the globe, and so +_similar their climates_--both having remained so long unknown to the +great continents, and so devoid of intercourse with the rest of the +world--that one would be led to imagine a great resemblance must be the +result. But the natives of the former seem of the lowest grade--the last +link in the great chain of existence which unites man with the monkey. +Their limbs are long, thin, and flat, with large bony knees and elbows, a +projecting forehead, and pot-belly. The mind, too, seems adapted to this +mean configuration; they have neither energy, enterprise, nor industry; +and their curiosity can scarcely be excited. A few exceptions may be met +with; but these are their general characteristics. While the natives of +the latter island are "cast in beauty's perfect mould;" the children are +so fine and powerfully made, that each might serve as a model for a +statue of "the Infant Hercules;" nothing can exceed the graceful and +athletic forms of the men, or the rounded limbs of their young women. +These possess eyes beautiful and eloquent, and a profusion of long, +silky, curling hair; while the intellects of both sexes seem of a +superior order; all appear eager for improvement, full of energy, and +indefatigably industrious, and possessing amongst themselves several arts +which are totally unknown to their neighbours. + + + + + +CHAPTER LIV. + +THE SETTLEMENT AND TRADE OF HOKIANGA. + + +On April the 14th, our brig being stored with planks, flax, and potatoes, +and ready for sea, I went on board of her. We had fine weather till we +dropped down to the entrance of the river, where we intended taking in +our stock of water for the voyage, when the scene suddenly changed, and a +severe gale came on, right out to sea, which we could not avail ourselves +of; neither could we get the water off, as our rafts of casks got adrift +in the attempt to get them on board. To add to our disasters, one of our +cables parted, and we had to ride out the gale (of two days' continuance) +with one only, the sea rolling heavily right open before us, and we in +momentary expectation of the remaining cable's going; we had not a single +day's allowance of water on board, and at one period all hands (except +the carpenter and passengers) were out of the brig, on shore, filling the +casks. Fortunately for us, the cable proved a tough one; had it parted, +we should have been in a most perilous situation. + +April 20th.--For the last week we were stationary at the river's mouth, +waiting for a fair wind to carry us over the bar; and during that time +there was no appearance of any change; we also heard that vessels had +been detained here for six weeks before they could accomplish it. We +were visited daily by parties of natives, who seemed to rejoice at our +being delayed, as it gave them more of our company than they had +calculated upon. They were more delighted with our society than we were +with theirs; in a small vessel they are a serious nuisance, on account of +the swarms of vermin they bring with them, and which they communicate +liberally to all. Myself and all the passengers on board had our leisure +time fully occupied in dislodging these "little familiars" from their +strongholds in different parts of our apparel. + +During the time we were lying here, I saw and conversed with several +individuals who had attended the "Great Meeting," and their accounts gave +rise to various opinions respecting the policy of supplying the natives +with firearms. As I had always been an advocate for the measure, I was +gratified by hearing that it was thought to be in consequence of each +party's being possessed of a nearly equal quantity of muskets, that a +general and exterminating war was avoided. Some may suppose that similar +tranquility would have been preserved, had they been equally well +supplied with their native weapons of war; but that would not have been +the case. When they found that each party could furnish forth the same +number of European muskets, they paused, well knowing that it was +contrary to the wish of all the white settlers that they should proceed +to hostilities. Indeed, Europeans intrepidly mingled amongst them, urging +them to a reconciliation, and threatening that, if they failed in their +endeavours, the supplies of arms and ammunition should be discontinued. +This threat had its desired effect on the minds of the natives; no blood +was spilt, and each chief returned quietly to his own home. + +On the night we heard of the death of George and his wife, "Revenge and +war" was the universal cry. His party would not believe that it could be +an accident, nor would they hear of any apology being received. At this +time they imagined the tribes of Hokianga were possessed of but very few +firearms; and, as the skirmish took place in that district, it was +determined that an exterminating war should be carried into the heart of +it. However, before all the preparations could be made to carry their +intentions into effect, they received certain information that the people +of Hokianga were even better supplied with muskets than those of the Bay +of Islands. This intelligence occasioned an assemblage of the different +tribes to be proposed, and when it took place the friends of George saw +their opponents so well prepared for the "tug of war" that they deemed it +judicious to come forward and to shake hands and to acknowledge that the +death of Shulitea proceeded either from accident or mistake. A curious +circumstance took place in the midst of their debate. An old chief, who +wished for a fight, and did not approve of the introduction of firearms, +but was an advocate for the old method of New Zealand warfare, proposed +that each party should send away _all_ their muskets and ammunition, and +engage manfully with their own native weapons, and then it could be +easily proved which were the "best men;" but this mode of settling the +dispute, not being agreeable to the majority, was instantly negatived, +and treated with disdain. + +The colony of Scotch carpenters, who had formed a settlement at the head +of the river, and of whom I made "honourable mention" on my first +journey, finding themselves so close to what they feared might become +the seat of war, and having no means whatever of defending themselves, +made an arrangement with Mooetara, the chief of Parkunugh (which is +situated at the entrance of the same river), and placed themselves under +his protection. They accordingly moved down here, which gave great +satisfaction to that chief. Neither could their former protector, +Patuone, feel offended at their removal, from the peculiar nature of the +circumstances they were placed in. These hardy North Britons were +delighted to find a reasonable excuse for moving, their former +establishment being situated too far from the sea for them to reap any +advantage from ships coming into port. Nothing can be more gratifying +than to behold the great anxiety of the natives to induce Englishmen to +settle amongst them; it ensures their safety; and no one act of treachery +is on record of their having practised towards those whom they had +invited to reside with them. + +Mooetara is a man of great property and high rank, and is considered a +very proud chief by the natives; yet he is to be seen every day working +as hard as any slave in assisting in the erection of houses for the +accommodation of his new settlers. He has actually removed from his old +village of Parkunugh (a strong and beautiful place), and is erecting huts +for his tribe near the spot chosen by his new friends; so that, in a very +short time, a barren point of land, hitherto without a vestige of a human +habitation, will become a thriving and populous village, for it is +incredible how quickly the orders of these chiefs are carried into +effect. I was frequently a witness to the short space of time they took +to erect their houses; and, though small, they are tight, weather-proof, +and warm: their storehouses are put together in the most substantial and +workmanlike manner. + +It is very difficult to make the New Zealanders explain the nature of +their religious belief. One superstition seems general with all the +tribes respecting the formation of the world, or, rather, of their own +island, for that is the place of the first importance in their +estimation. They say a man, or a god, or some great spirit, was fishing +in his war-canoe, and pulled up a large fish, which instantly turned into +an island; and a lizard came upon that, and brought up a man out of the +water by his long hair; and he was the father of all the New Zealanders. +Almost all their grotesque carvings are illustrations of this idea in +some way or other. The favourite theme on which (I observed) the +missionaries discoursed to them were "the torments of hell." This has +become a subject of ridicule to most of the natives; they do not deny +that there may be such a place, but they add, it is not for them, for if +Atua had intended it so he would have sent them word about it long before +he sent the white men into their country; and they conclude by stating +that they know perfectly well the situation of the island where they are +to go to after this life. + + + + + +CHAPTER LV. + +MASSACRE OF A SCHOONER'S CREW. + + +While remaining here wind-bound, in imaginary security, and amusing +ourselves with noticing the curious customs and peculiarities of these +islanders, a dreadful tragedy was taking place only a few miles' distance +from us, and to which I before alluded, when I mentioned crossing the bar +on our first arrival from Port Jackson. The Enterprise schooner, a very +fine vessel, which was built at the settlement on this river, had been +sent to Sydney, and while we were lying there we were in hourly +expectation of her return. She did return. The unfavourable weather which +detained us so long proved fatal to her, and she was wrecked a few miles +to the northward of the river's mouth, and every soul on board perished. + +The moment this catastrophe was known every European hastened to the +spot, and, with feelings of horror, perceived but too plainly, from the +appearance of the wreck and the boat, and by finding also the clothes of +the crew, that they had reached the shore in safety, and had afterwards +all been murdered; but how, or by whom, it was impossible to discover. +The most probable conclusion was that the tribes situated around the +European dockyard at Hokianga, having meditated for some time past a +great war-like expedition, waited the return of this schooner from Sydney +to possess themselves of an additional supply of arms and ammunition, +which might enable them to take the field with a certainty of conquest. +They had regularly purchased the cargo of this vessel by their labour +and their merchandise, and the schooner was merely employed to convey it +thither from Sydney, for the use of the natives; unhappily for the poor +creatures on board, in running for the mouth of the river, she fell to +leeward, and got stranded on the beach, in the very territory of that +tribe against whom these preparations were made--the tribe intended to be +invaded. Though no formal declaration of war had taken place, the tribes +well knew the preparations that were making against them, and the nature +of the cargo contained in The Enterprise; falling into the hands of such +fierce and vindictive savages, the fate of the crew may be imagined--all +our poor fellows were sacrificed to gratify their feelings of revenge. + +Mooetara (the friendly chief of Hokianga) no sooner heard of the fate of +the vessel and her crew than he hastened with his party to the spot; it +was owing to the investigation which then took place that the conclusion +was arrived at that all had been murdered. What remained for Mooetara to +do (according to their savage notion of what was right) was to take ample +revenge on all the hostile tribes that might fall in his way, whether our +poor countrymen met their deaths through accident or treachery. Mooetara +instantly commenced the work of destruction; and, having made his +vengeance complete, he returned laden with spoil. The promptness with +which he acted on this melancholy occasion greatly increased the feelings +of security possessed by those Englishmen settled on the banks of the +river, as it proved to them that he was both able and willing to protect +them, and though the dead could not be restored, yet he had inflicted an +awful punishment on their murderers. + + + + + +CHAPTER LVI. + +FAREWELL TO NEW ZEALAND. + + +On the 21st a fair wind and smooth sea favoured our departure. Early in +the morning the natives who were on board assured us everything would +facilitate our passing over the bar with safety, and they prepared to +leave the ship. When the moment of separation came, it caused a great +deal of emotion on both sides. I must confess I felt much affected when I +came to rub noses, shake hands, and say "Farewell" to these kind-hearted +people. I saw them go over the ship's side, and reflected that I should +never behold them more. There is always something repugnant to our +feelings in the idea of separating from any being for ever; and as, in +this instance, I felt assured that this was our last time of meeting, it +cast a gloom over the pleasure the fair wind and smooth sea would +otherwise have afforded me. As we fell down towards the river's mouth, +and, indeed, as long as their canoes were to be seen, they kept waving +their hands towards us. + +Thus terminated my visit to the islands of New Zealand. I had arrived +with feelings of fear and disgust, and was merely induced to take up a +temporary residence amongst the natives, in hopes of finding something +new for my pencil in their peculiar and picturesque style of life. I left +them with opinions, in many respects, very favourable towards them. It +is true, they are cunning and over-reaching in trade, and filthy in their +persons. In regard to the former, we Europeans, I fear, set them a bad +example; of the latter, they will gradually amend. Our short visit to +Kororarika greatly improved them in that particular. All took great pains +to come as clean as possible when they attended our "evening +tea-parties." In my opinion, their sprightly, free, and independent +deportment, together with their kindness and attention to strangers, +compensates for many defects. + +On looking round upon their country, an Englishman cannot fail to feel +gratified when he beholds the good already resulting to these poor +savages from their intercourse with his countrymen; and they themselves +are fully sensible of, and truly grateful for, every mark of kindness +manifested towards them. They have stores full of the finest Indian corn, +which they consider a great luxury, a food which requires little trouble +in preparing, keeps well, and is very nutritious. It is but a few years +since this useful grain was introduced amongst them; and I sincerely hope +this introduction may be followed up, not only by our sending out to them +seeds of vegetables and fruits, but by our forwarding to them every +variety of quadruped which can be used for food. Abundance of the finest +water-melons are daily brought alongside vessels entering their ports; +these, in point of flavour, are superior to any I ever met with. I have +no doubt every variety of European produce essential to the support of +life would thrive equally well; and as food became abundant, and luxuries +were introduced, their disgusting feasts on human flesh would soon be +discontinued altogether. + +We were soon at sea, and speedily felt considerable apprehensions as to +the safe termination of our voyage. Our vessel (the brig Governor +Macquarie) we well knew was a leaky one, though her leaks did not +distress us on the outward voyage, she being then only in ballast trim; +but now that she was loaded to the water's edge, and the winter coming +on, we became greatly alarmed for her. Another disagreeable circumstance +was having no bread or flour on board. To obviate the first evil, and to +save the sailors a great deal of hard labour, our Captain offered to give +a passage to Sydney to several natives, who accepted his offer, they +being always anxious to see the colony; we likewise had on board the +great Chief from the Thames, who had caused us so much trouble at +Kororarika. These men, being fine, strong, active young fellows, were +indefatigable in their exertions at the pumps; and though we had to +contend with much heavy weather, and contrary winds, they kept our vessel +pretty dry. The want of bread was not so easily remedied; though our +Captain treated it lightly, saying he was sure of getting a supply by +making a requisition to the missionaries. He accordingly waited upon +them, and acquainted them with our distressed condition; they had plenty +(for only a few weeks previously they had received a large supply), and +as we knew their agent at Sydney, Mr. Campbell, we had no doubt of +procuring a sufficiency from them to carry us home; but in this we were +disappointed. Captain Kent did not ask them for a supply as a gift, but +solicited merely the _loan_ of a cask or two till we arrived at Sydney, +when he guaranteed that the owners of the brig should return the same +quantity into the missionary storehouse there. The little monosyllable +_No_ was again put in requisition, with this qualification--"that they +did not like the Botany Bay skippers." Through their "dislike," the +passengers and seamen of the brig might have gone unprovided to sea, had +not a "worldly-minded" whaler (fortunately for us) at that critical +moment come into port, who, the instant he heard of the ill-success of +our entreaty, vented his indignation in pretty coarse language, and said, +"if it detained his vessel a week, he would supply us;" and he kept his +word; he gave us a bountiful supply, which rendered us comfortable during +the whole way home. + +It was most interesting to observe our savages when we got well out to +sea. They soon appeared to become accustomed to their novel situation, +and seemed to feel quite at home and at their ease "on board ship." Their +exertions at the pumps were indefatigable. I felt convinced they thought +that during all voyages the same labour was gone through to keep the +vessel afloat; and as it only required strength and exertion, they +cheerfully took that department entirely to themselves, especially as +they soon perceived how useless they were when they attempted to perform +any other duty on board of the brig, as their knowledge of voyaging +extended no further than the distance they go in their own canoes, which, +though very beautiful, are sad leaky things at sea; and as, during the +time they are out, the greater part of the crew are baling the water out +of them, they thought the leaky state of our vessel was no uncommon +occurrence. But however cheerfully they worked during the day, nothing +could induce them to "turn out" at night; they always stowed themselves +away, but in what part of the vessel I never could conjecture. They have +a dread of some unknown evil spirit, which they imagine has power over +them at night; and this supposition makes them terrible cowards in the +dark. + +The second day after we were at sea, I saw a group of savages lying round +the binnacle, all intently occupied in observing the phenomenon of the +magnetic attraction; they seemed at once to comprehend the purpose to +which it was applied, and I listened with eager curiosity to their +remarks upon it. + +"This," said they, "is the white man's God, who directs them safely to +different countries, and then can guide them home again." Out of +compliment to us, and respect for its wonderful powers, they seemed much +inclined to worship this silent little monitor. + +During our voyage to Port Jackson we experienced a succession of +southerly gales, which Captain Kent informed me were very prevalent at +this season of the year. Notwithstanding all our exertions to prevent it, +we were carried considerably to leeward of the port. We made Lord Howe's +Islands, whose high and bold features rise, as it were, out of the ocean; +as we passed close to them, we perceived they were well wooded and +watered; and one of the men, who had been on shore there, informed me that +there was a tolerably good harbour for small craft. A few miles to the +southward of these islands is Ball's Pyramid, a most singular and +sublime-looking rock, rising perpendicularly out of the sea to a height +of a thousand feet; the base of it is enveloped in perpetual surf, +dashing and climbing up its craggy sides. Its appearance, as we saw it, +relieved by the setting sun, and the coming on of a stormy night, was +awful in the extreme! + +Nothing could exceed the delight manifested by our New Zealanders as we +sailed up Port Jackson harbour; but, above all, the windmills most +astonished them. After dancing and screaming with joy at beholding them, +they came running and asking me "if they were not gods." I found they +were inclined to attach that sacred appellation to most things they could +not understand; they did so when they first became possessed of their +muskets, and actually worshipped them, until they discovered how soon +they got out of repair, and then, notwithstanding all the prayers they +could bestow upon them, they would not mend again of their own accord. + +Our Chief from the Thames, who had a great idea of his own dignity, +commenced adorning his person, as he felt convinced the Governor would +instantly grant him an audience when he came on shore. All our lamps were +emptied to add a more beautiful gloss to his hair and complexion; his +whole stock of feathers and bones were arranged to the greatest +advantage. He at length became quite enraged when he found that he was +allowed to sit two days on our deck, amongst all manner of dirty porters +and sailors, without either being visited or sent for; and he was loud in +his reproaches to us for having deceived him. We certainly were to blame +in having induced him to believe we had any influence with the Governor, +for however politic we (who had lived in New Zealand) might think it, to +pay some attentions to these simple savages, his Excellency, +unfortunately, thought otherwise; and though the Chief, attended by his +followers, used to sit in the verandah at Government House from morning +till night, the Governor never once deigned to speak to them, and they +were, in consequence, constantly coming to me with complaints. At length +they told me that unless they obtained an audience from our Chief they +should consider it so great an insult that they would revenge it upon all +the Europeans they could get into their power; and I, well knowing that +several families were settled in that part of the country wherein this +man was Chief, thought it my duty to let the Governor know, that, however +he might dislike their manners and appearance, it might lead to some +serious calamity, if he continued to refuse to give them an audience. + +I accordingly waited upon the Brigade Major, and explained to him how +unwise it was to treat these men with such undisguised contempt. The +result was, the Governor saw the affair in the same point of view as +myself, and condescended to meet them and converse with them for about +five minutes; and with that they were satisfied. Other heads of +departments (civil and military) behaved differently, and evidently felt +a pleasure in having them with them. The Commander of the troops suffered +them to sit at the same table with himself and officers, and had the +war-dance performed in the mess-room, which I thought would have brought +the house down upon our heads. He likewise permitted them to fall into +the ranks with the soldiers, which pleased them beyond everything, +inasmuch as they considered it a higher honour in being permitted to +stand by our warriors on the martial parade than to take food with our +Chiefs at their own table! + +The Attorney-General of the colony took a particular interest in these +savages, and gave a large party, to which they were invited. Several of +the visitors on this occasion came out of curiosity to see how these +cannibals would conduct themselves, expecting, no doubt, to witness a +display of disgusting gluttony; but in that they were disappointed, for +never did any set of men behave with greater decorum than they did. + +On being apprised of this invitation, they were all most anxious to +obtain European dresses, and when we refused to lend them ours, they +requested of our servants the loan of a suit. This being denied them +also, with the little money they had they attempted to bargain for whole +suits of _convict_ dresses, in order to make their _debut_ in style at +the table of the Attorney-General! When I discovered this to be the case, +I explained to them the impropriety of their conduct, and roused their +pride by pointing out to them the absurdity of men of their high rank in +their own country wishing to appear in the cast-off dress of degraded +slaves, and how much more suitable it was to the dignity of their +character to appear in their own national costume. Accordingly, on the +appointed day, they met the company superbly attired in mats and +feathers; they made a splendid show at the dinner-table, and afforded +great amusement to the evening visitors. At an early hour they got very +sleepy, but were too polite to hint how much they felt oppressed by +drowsiness. I saw their eyes grow heavy, and perceived that it was +difficult for them to sit upright on their chairs. I mentioned these +symptoms to their kind host, who immediately consented to their retiring. +They accordingly withdrew into a corner of one of the adjoining rooms, +where, lying down huddled together, and covering themselves with their +mats, they were soon asleep, and gave no interruption to anyone during +the remainder of the evening. + +The greatest treat it was in our power to bestow on them was to take them +to a review of the troops then stationed at Sydney. The splendour of +their regimentals, the regularity of their movements, and the precision +of their firing, made them nearly mad with delight; they ran about the +plain literally wild with joy, occasionally stopping to gaze with wonder +on men performing what they deemed such prodigies. In their ecstasies +they occasionally vociferated their own furious war-whoop. Their +extravagant expressions of delight, and their many extraordinary +gestures, caused great amusement both to the military and to the +spectators assembled on the ground; and when the review was over my +savage friends were quite exhausted with fatigue and excitement. + +After two months' residence at Sydney we had an opportunity of procuring +a passage for them to their own country; and they departed, expressing +the greatest gratitude for our attentions towards them. They were loaded +with presents of all descriptions; for, finding they generally got what +they begged for, while here, they importuned everyone they met, and they +used daily to return home burthened with the most miscellaneous and +extraordinary jumble of commodities it was possible to conceive; for, as +everything they then beheld was new to them, and might be (they thought) +of some service to them in their own country, each trifle was of great +value in their estimation, and was carefully stowed away. They always +expressed their concern that so few muskets were given to them, and that +they were presented with ammunition in such small quantities. War-like +stores were their grand desideratum; and though they would accept of any +thing you chose to give them, yet they always had hopes they should +finally receive their favourite presents of a stocking of powder, a piece +of lead, or a musket. + +THE END. + + + + + +APPENDIX I. + +MASSACRE OF CAPT. FURNEAUX'S BOAT'S CREW. + +CANNIBALISM OF THE MAORIS. + + +[_The following is the account given by Captain Furneaux of the massacre +of his boat's crew, referred to in Earle's narrative on page 24._] + + * * * * * + +The Resolution, under command of Captain Cook, and the Adventure, +commanded by Captain Furneaux, sailed from Plymouth on the 13th April, +1772, to continue the exploration of New Zealand begun during Captain +Cook's first voyage. The vessels became finally separated in a gale off +Cape Palliser in October, 1773, and the two navigators did not meet again +until after Cook's return to England in July, 1775. + +Captain Furneaux reported that while his ship was refitting in Queen +Charlotte Sound the astronomer's tent was robbed by a party of natives. +One who was seen escaping was fired upon and wounded, when he and his +confederates made for the woods, leaving their canoe with most of the +stolen goods on the shore. "This petty larceny," Captain Furneaux +remarks, "probably laid the foundation of that dreadful catastrophe which +soon after happened," and which he thus describes: + +"On Friday, the 17th, we sent out our large cutter, manned with seven +seamen, under the command of Mr. John Rowe, the first mate, accompanied +by Mr. Woodhouse, midshipman, and James Tobias Swilley, the carpenter's +servant. They were to proceed up the Sound to Grass Cove to gather greens +and celery for the ship's company, with orders to return that evening; +for the tents had been struck at two in the afternoon, and the ship made +ready for sailing the next day. Night coming on, and no cutter appearing, +the captain and others began to express great uneasiness. They sat up all +night in expectation of their arrival, but to no purpose. At daybreak, +therefore, the captain ordered the launch to be hoisted out. She was +double manned, and under the command of our second lieutenant, Mr. +Burney, accompanied by Mr. Freeman, master, the corporal of marines, with +five private men, all well armed, and having plenty of ammunition and +three days' provision. They were ordered first to look into East Bay, +then to proceed to Grass Cove, and if nothing was to be seen or heard of +the cutter there, they were to go farther up the cove, and return by the +west shore. Mr. Rowe having left the ship an hour before the time +proposed for his departure, we thought his curiosity might have carried +him into East Bay, none of our people having ever been there, or that +some accident might have happened to the boat, for not the least +suspicion was entertained of the natives. Mr. Burney returned about +eleven o'clock the same night, and gave us a pointed description of a +most horrible scene, described in the following relation:-- + +"'On Saturday, the 18th, we left the ship about nine o'clock in the +morning. We soon got round Long Island and Long Point. We continued +sailing and rowing for East Bay, keeping close in shore, and examining +with our glasses every cove on the larboard side, till near two o'clock +in the afternoon, at which time we stopped at a beach on our left going +up East Bay, to dress our dinner. + +"'About five o'clock in the afternoon, and within an hour after we had +left this place, we opened a small bay adjoining to Grass Cove, and here +we saw a large double canoe just hauled upon the beach, with two men and +a dog. The two men, on seeing us approach, instantly fled, which made us +suspect it was here we should have some tidings of the cutter. On landing +and examining the canoe, the first thing we saw therein was one of our +cutter's rowlock ports and some shoes, one of which among the latter was +known to belong to Mr. Woodhouse. A piece of flesh was found by one of +our people, which at first was thought to be some of the salt meat +belonging to the cutter's men, but, upon examination, we supposed to be +dog's flesh. A most horrid and undeniable proof soon cleared up our +doubts, and convinced us we were among no other than cannibals; for, +advancing further on the beach, we saw about twenty baskets tied up, and +a dog eating a piece of broiled flesh, which, upon examination, we +suspected to be human. We cut open the baskets, some of which were full +of roasted flesh, and others of fern root, which serves them for bread. +Searching others, we found more shoes and a hand, which was immediately +known to have belonged to Thos. Hill, one of our forecastle men, it +having been tattooed with the initials of his name. We now proceeded a +little way in the woods, but saw nothing else. Our next design was to +launch the canoe, intending to destroy her; but seeing a great smoke +ascending over the nearest hill, we made all possible haste to be with +them before sunset. + +"'At half after six we opened Grass Cove, where we saw one single and +three double canoes, and a great many natives assembled on the beach, who +retreated to a small hill, within a ship's length of the water side, +where they stood talking to us. On the top of the high land, beyond the +woods, was a large fire, from whence, all the way down the hill, the +place was thronged like a fair. When we entered the cove, a musketoon was +fired at one of the canoes, as we imagined they might be full of men +lying down, for they were all afloat, but no one was seen in them. Being +doubtful whether their retreat proceeded from fear or a desire to decoy +us into an ambuscade, we were determined not to be surprised, and +therefore, running close in shore, we dropped the grappling near enough +to reach them with our guns, but at too great a distance to be under any +apprehensions from their treachery. The savages on the little hill kept +their ground, hallooing, and making signs for us to land. At these we now +took aim, resolving to kill as many of them as our bullets would reach, +yet it was some time before we could dislodge them. The first volley did +not seem to affect them much, but on the second they began to scramble +away as fast as they could, some howling and others limping. We continued +to fire as long as we could see the least glimpse of any of them through +the bushes. Among these were two very robust men, who maintained their +ground without moving an inch till they found themselves forsaken by all +their companions, and then, disdaining to run, they marched off with +great composure and deliberation. One of them, however, got a fall, and +either lay there or crawled away on his hands and feet; but the other +escaped without any apparent hurt. Mr. Burney now improved their panic, +and, supported by the marines, leaped on shore and pursued the fugitives. +We had not advanced far from the water-side, on the beach, before we met +with two bunches of celery, which had been gathered by the cutter's crew. +A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to which the natives had +tied their canoes, whereby we were convinced this was the spot where the +attack had been made. We now searched all along at the back of the beach, +to see if the cutter was there, but instead of her, the most horrible +scene was presented to our view; for there lay the hearts, heads, and +lungs of several of our people, with hands and limbs in a mangled +condition, some broiled and some raw; but no other parts of their bodies, +which made us suspect that the cannibals had feasted upon and devoured +the rest. At a little distance we saw the dogs gnawing their entrails. We +observed a large body of the natives collected together on a hill about +two miles off, but as night drew on apace, we could not advance to such a +distance; neither did we think it safe to attack them, or even to quit +the shore to take an account of the number killed, our troop being a very +small one, and the savages were both numerous, fierce, and much +irritated. While we remained almost stupefied on the spot, Mr. Fannen +said that he heard the cannibals assembling in the woods, on which we +returned to our boat, and having hauled alongside the canoes, we +demolished three of them. During this transaction the fire on the top of +the hill disappeared, and we could hear the savages in the woods at high +words, quarrelling, perhaps, on account of their different opinions, +whether they should attack us and try to save their canoes. They were +armed with long lances, and weapons not unlike a sergeant's halbert in +shape, made of hard wood, and mounted with bone instead of iron. We +suspected that the dead bodies of our people had been divided among those +different parties of cannibals who had been concerned in the massacre, +and it was not improbable that the group we saw at a distance by the fire +were feasting upon some of them, as those on shore had been where the +remains were found, before they had been disturbed by our unexpected +visit. Be that as it may, we could discover no traces of more than four +of our friends' bodies, nor could we find the place where the cutter was +concealed. It now grew dark, on which account we collected carefully the +remains of our mangled friends, and, putting off, made the best of our +way from this polluted place. When we opened the upper part of the Sound, +we saw a very large fire about three or four miles higher up, which +formed a complete oval, reaching from the top of a hill down almost to +the water-side, the middle space being enclosed all round by the fire, +like a hedge. Mr. Burney and Mr. Fannen having consulted together, they +were both of opinion that we could, by an attempt, reap no other +advantage than the poor satisfaction of killing some more of the savages. +Upon leaving Grass Cove we had fired a volley towards where we heard the +Indians talking, but by going in and out of the boat our pieces had got +wet, and four of them missed fire. What rendered our situation more +critical, it began to rain, and our ammunition was more than half +expended. We, for these reasons, without spending time where nothing +could be hoped for but revenge, proceeded for the ship, and arrived safe +aboard before midnight.'" + +It is a little remarkable that Captain Furneaux had been several times up +Grass Cove with Captain Cook, where they saw no inhabitants, and no other +signs of any but a few deserted villages, which appeared as if they had +not been occupied for many years, and yet, in Mr. Burney's opinion, when +he entered the same cove, there could not be less than fifteen hundred or +two thousand people. + +On Thursday, the 23rd of December, the Adventure departed from, and made +sail out of, the Sound. She stood to the eastward, to clear the straits, +which was happily effected the same evening; but the ship was baffled for +two or three days with light winds before she could clear the coast. In +this interval of time the chests and effects of the ten men who had been +murdered were sold before the mast, according to an old sea custom. + +When Captain Cook was in the Sound on his third voyage, he learned that +the massacre arose over an unpremeditated quarrel. Kahura, who had been +active in the tragedy, told Cook that a Maori having brought a stone +hatchet to barter, the man to whom it was offered took it, and would +neither return it nor give anything for it, and on which the owner +snatched some bread from the party of Europeans, who were at dinner on +the beach, as an equivalent, and then the quarrel began. Kahura himself +had a narrow escape of being shot, while another was shot beside him; and +the Europeans, outnumbered, were surrounded and killed. It was also +stated by the natives that not one of the shots fired by the party of +Captain Furneaux led by Mr. Burney to search for the missing people had +taken effect so as to kill or even to hurt a single person. + + + + + +APPENDIX II. + +THE DEATH OF WHAREUMU (KING GEORGE). + + +The death of this Bay of Islands chief, who acted as protector to Mr. +Earle during his residence at Kororareka, is thus described by Messrs. +Hobbs and Stack, Wesleyan missionaries at Hokianga, in a letter dated +from Mangungu, Hokianga, on the 22nd March, 1828:-- + +"On the same day that Hongi died at Whangaroa a son of the late Pomare's, +named Tiki, was killed at Waima by a chief of the tribe called +Mahurihuri. Waima is in Hokianga, and only a few miles distance from us. +The cause of the quarrel was this: Tiki had had some of his pigs stolen +by the natives of Waima, and he was seeking utu by robbing their sweet +potato plantations, for which he was shot. + +"As soon as the report of the young man's death reached the Bay of +Islands, 400 natives collected together, forming two divisions, under two +separate chiefs, Whareumu, or, as he is called by the Europeans, King +George, and Toi, and came to Hokianga. Toi and his party arrived first at +Waima, where he found Patuone and all the natives and other chiefs of our +district. After robbing the natives of Waima of their potatoes, etc., +peace was made, and no further evil consequences seemed likely to arise. +The next day, the 14th, Whareumu and his party arrived. He was highly +displeased with Toi for having made peace on such easy terms. He +prevailed upon him, therefore, to break his league. Whareumu was also +very insolent to Muriwai, intimated that he was a coward, and poured +contempt upon the idea of the Hokianga natives standing in their own +defence. On the morning of the 15th a quarrel ensued between the 400 Bay +of Islanders and the natives of Waima, our natives also having now become +their allies. This fray did not at the outset seem likely to be attended +with fatal results, but, as Solomon justly observes, the beginning of +strife is like the letting out of water; so it was in this instance. +Shots were fired on both sides till several were killed and wounded. At +length Muriwai, who was a pacificator, was wounded and fell. Supposing he +was killed, our natives (for the natives of Waima fled as soon as matters +assumed a serious aspect) no longer regarded matters lightly, but turned +round in great rage, for they also were in the act of retreating, and +singled out Whareumu as a satisfaction for Muriwai. Whareumu received two +balls before he was killed. The one which killed him went through his +throat. As soon as he fell all his followers fled, leaving about nine of +their companions dead on the field, amongst whom was Oro, the chief who +commenced our Whangaroa robbing. This ended the contest. Patuone and Nene +immediately took up the body of the fallen chief and made great +lamentation over him, and have since placed his body between the bodies +of their own relations as a mark of respect." + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative of a Nine Months' +Residence in New Zealand in 1827, by Augustus Earle + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEW ZEALAND IN 1827 *** + +***** This file should be named 11933-8.txt or 11933-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/1/9/3/11933/ + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram and PG Distributed Proofreaders + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Narrative of a Nine Months' Residence in New Zealand in 1827 + +Author: Augustus Earle + +Release Date: April 7, 2004 [EBook #11933] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEW ZEALAND IN 1827 *** + + + + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram and PG Distributed Proofreaders + + + + + +</pre> + + +<br> + +<h1>A NARRATIVE OF A NINE MONTHS' RESIDENCE IN NEW ZEALAND</h1> + +<h2>IN 1827</h2> + +<h3>BY</h3> + +<h2>AUGUSTUS EARLE</h2> + +<h3>DRAUGHTSMAN TO HIS MAJESTY'S SURVEYING SHIP</h3> + +<h3>"THE BEAGLE."</h3> + +<h5>Whitecombe & Tombs Limited</h5> + +<h5>Christchurch, Wellington, and Dunedin, N.Z.;</h5> + +<h5>Melbourne and London</h5> + +<h5>1909</h5> + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> + +<a name="image-1"><!-- Image 1 --></a> +<center> +<img src="img/img1.jpg" width="600" height="344" alt="A New Zealand War Speech. (From a sketch by A. Earle.)" title="A New Zealand War Speech. (From a sketch by A. Earle.)"> +</center> +<h5>A New Zealand War Speech. (From a sketch by A. Earle.</h5> + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> + +<center> +<b>CONTENTS</b><br><br> + <a href="#LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"><b>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</b></a><br><br> +<!-- Autogenerated TOC. Modify or delete as required. --> + <a href="#INTRODUCTION"><b>INTRODUCTION</b></a><br><br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_I"><b>CHAPTER I</b></a><br> +VOYAGE FROM SYDNEY<br> +WRECKS AT HOKIANGA<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_II"><b>CHAPTER II</b></a><br> +MAORI WELCOME<br> +NATIVE CHARACTERISTICS<br> +EUROPEANS AT HOKIANGA<br> +CANNIBALISM<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_III"><b>CHAPTER III</b></a><br> +A MAORI VILLAGE<br> +THE TAPU ON CROPS<br> +MAORI ART<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_IV"><b>CHAPTER IV</b></a><br> +HOKIANGA RIVER<br> +MR. HOBBS' MISSION<br> +THE TIMBER INDUSTRY<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_V"><b>CHAPTER V</b></a><br> +AN OVERLAND JOURNEY<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_VI"><b>CHAPTER VI</b></a><br> +THE CHIEF PATUONE<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_VII"><b>CHAPTER VII</b></a><br> +A PICTURESQUE SCENE<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_VIII"><b>CHAPTER VIII</b></a><br> +IN THE DENSE FOREST<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_IX"><b>CHAPTER IX</b></a><br> +THE KERIKERI MISSION<br> +INHOSPITABLE RECEPTION<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_X"><b>CHAPTER X</b></a><br> +THE BAY OF ISLANDS<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XI"><b>CHAPTER XI</b></a><br> +MASSACRE OF THE BOYD<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XII"><b>CHAPTER XII</b></a><br> +KORORAREKA<br> +A MIXED COMMUNITY<br> +SHULITEA (KING GEORGE)<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XIII"><b>CHAPTER XIII</b></a><br> +MAORI CONSERVATISM<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XIV"><b>CHAPTER XIV</b></a><br> +A MISSION SETTLEMENT<br> +THE MECHANIC MISSIONARY<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XV"><b>CHAPTER XV</b></a><br> +VISIT FROM HONGI<br> +HONGI'S COAT OF MAIL<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XVI"><b>CHAPTER XVI</b></a><br> +INTERVIEW WITH HONGI<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XVII"><b>CHAPTER XVII</b></a><br> +A MAORI WELCOME<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII"><b>CHAPTER XVIII</b></a><br> +INLAND EXCURSIONS<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XIX"><b>CHAPTER XIX</b></a><br> +MAORI WOMEN'S CAMP<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XX"><b>CHAPTER XX</b></a><br> +LOADING SPARS, HOKIANGA<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXI"><b>CHAPTER XXI</b></a><br> +DEATH OF A CHIEF<br> +TRADING WITH MAORIS<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXII"><b>CHAPTER XXII</b></a><br> +BRUTAL MURDER OF A WIFE<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII"><b>CHAPTER XXIII</b></a><br> +ANOTHER JOURNEY<br> +INTERIOR OF THE COUNTRY<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV"><b>CHAPTER XXIV</b></a><br> +A WAR PARTY<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXV"><b>CHAPTER XXV</b></a><br> +HOSTILE DISPLAY<br> +THE LAW OF MURU<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI"><b>CHAPTER XXVI</b></a><br> +A SEDUCTION AND ITS CONSEQUENCES<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII"><b>CHAPTER XXVII</b></a><br> +LAW OF RETALIATION<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII"><b>CHAPTER XXVIII</b></a><br> +A WAR EXPEDITION<br> +CANNIBALISM<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXIX"><b>CHAPTER XXIX</b></a><br> +MAORI SLAVERY<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXX"><b>CHAPTER XXX</b></a><br> +PIRACY BY CONVICTS<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXXI"><b>CHAPTER XXXI</b></a><br> +N.Z. CLIMATE<br> +THE STARVATION CURE<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXXII"><b>CHAPTER XXXII</b></a><br> +THE ART OF TATTOOING<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXXIII"><b>CHAPTER XXXIII</b></a><br> +TRIBAL GOVERNMENT<br> +MAORI BELIEFS<br> +THE CUSTOM OF TAPU<br> +SUNDAY OBSERVANCE<br> +MASSACRE OF FRENCH NAVIGATOR MARION AND PARTY<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXXIV"><b>CHAPTER XXXIV</b></a><br> +THE MAORIS' VIEW OF CHRISTIANITY<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXXV"><b>CHAPTER XXXV</b></a><br> +HONGI'S THREATS<br> +PREPARING FOR WAR<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXXVI"><b>CHAPTER XXXVI</b></a><br> +ARRIVAL OF A WARSHIP<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXXVII"><b>CHAPTER XXXVII</b></a><br> +WHALERS AND MISSIONARIES<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXXVIII"><b>CHAPTER XXXVIII</b></a><br> +THREATENED WAR<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXXIX"><b>CHAPTER XXXIX</b></a><br> +CONSTRUCTION OF A PA<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XL"><b>CHAPTER XL</b></a><br> +A SHAM FIGHT<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XLI"><b>CHAPTER XLI</b></a><br> +AN EXCITING INCIDENT<br> +VISIT OF A GREAT TOHUNGA<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XLII"><b>CHAPTER XLII</b></a><br> +VICTORIOUS WARRIORS<br> +TREATMENT OF PRISONERS<br> +BAKED HEADS<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XLIII"><b>CHAPTER XLIII</b></a><br> +VISITS OF WHALERS<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XLIV"><b>CHAPTER XLIV</b></a><br> +SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XLV"><b>CHAPTER XLV</b></a><br> +DEATH OF HONGI<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XLVI"><b>CHAPTER XLVI</b></a><br> +A TRIBAL CONFLICT<br> +SHULITEA (KING GEORGE) KILLED<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XLVII"><b>CHAPTER XLVII</b></a><br> +EXCITEMENT AT KORORAREKA<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XLVIII"><b>CHAPTER XLVIII</b></a><br> +EARLE'S FAREWELL<br> +MISSIONARIES ALARMED<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XLIX"><b>CHAPTER XLIX</b></a><br> +JOURNEY TO HOKIANGA<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_L"><b>CHAPTER L</b></a><br> +EUROPEAN DEFENCES<br> +MR. HOBBS' MESSAGE OF PEACE<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_LI"><b>CHAPTER LI</b></a><br> +MAORI SOCIAL CUSTOMS<br> +EUROPEAN LIAISONS WITH MAORIS<br> +MAORI MARRIAGES<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_LII"><b>CHAPTER LII</b></a><br> +A MAORI TANGI<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_LIII"><b>CHAPTER LIII</b></a><br> +MAORI CHARACTERISTICS<br> +ORIGIN OF OUTRAGES<br> +FAMILY AFFECTION<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_LIV"><b>CHAPTER LIV</b></a><br> +TRADE OF HOKIANGA<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_LV"><b>CHAPTER LV</b></a><br> +A CREW MASSACRED<br> +<br> + <a href="#CHAPTER_LVI"><b>CHAPTER LVI</b></a><br> +FAREWELL TO NEW ZEALAND<br> +MAORIS IN SYDNEY<br> +<br> + <a href="#APPENDIX_I"><b>APPENDIX I</b></a><br> +MASSACRE OF FURNEAUX'S BOAT'S CREW<br> +CANNIBALISM<br> +<br> + <a href="#APPENDIX_II"><b>APPENDIX II</b></a><br> +A TRIBAL FIGHT<br> + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a><h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> + +<a href="#image-1">A Maori War Speech (Frontispiece)</a><br> +<a href="#image-2">Patuone, a Hokianga Chief</a><br> +<a href="#image-3">Mission Station, Kerikeri</a><br> +<a href="#image-4">Scene of Boyd Massacre</a><br> +<a href="#image-5">Maori War Expedition</a><br> +<a href="#image-6">Maori Method of Tattooing</a><br> +<a href="#image-7">Specimens of Tattooing</a><br> +<a href="#image-8">Whalers at Bay of Islands</a><br> + +</center> +<!-- End Autogenerated TOC. --> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="INTRODUCTION"></a><h2>INTRODUCTION</h2> +<br> + +<p>The author of this account of New Zealand in the year 1827 was an artist +by profession. "A love of roving and adventure," he states, tempted him, +at an early age, to sea. In 1815 he procured a passage on board a +storeship bound for Sicily and Malta, where he had a brother stationed +who was a captain in the navy. He visited many parts of the +Mediterranean, accompanying Lord Exmouth's fleet in his brother's gunboat +on his Lordship's first expedition against the Barbary States. He +afterwards visited the ruins of Carthage and the remains of the ancient +city of Ptolomea, or Lepida, situated in ancient Libya. Returning to +Malta, he passed through Sicily, and ascended Mount Etna. In 1818 he left +England for the United States, and spent nearly two years in rambling +through that country. Thence he proceeded to Brazil and Chile, returning +to Rio de Janeiro, where he practised his art until the commencement of +1824. Having received letters of introduction to Lord Amherst, who had +left England to undertake the government of India, Mr. Earle left Rio for +the Cape of Good Hope, intending to take his passage thence to Calcutta. +On the voyage to the Cape the vessel by which he was a passenger touched +at Tristan d'Acunha, and was driven off that island in a gale while Mr. +Earle was ashore, leaving him stranded in that desolate land, where he +remained for six months, when he was rescued by a passing ship, the +"Admiral Cockburn," bound for Van Diemen's Land, whence he visited New +South Wales and New Zealand, returning again to Sydney. In pursuance of +his original resolution to visit India, he left Sydney in "The Rainbow," +touching at the Caroline Islands, Manilla, and Singapore. After spending +some time in Madras, where he executed many original drawings, which were +afterwards copied and exhibited in a panorama, he set out for England by +a French vessel, which was compelled by stress of weather to put into +Mauritius, where she was condemned. Mr. Earle ultimately reached England +in a vessel named the "Resource," but, being still animated by the desire +for travel, he accepted the situation of draughtsman on His Majesty's +ship "Beagle," commanded by Captain Fitzroy, which in the year 1831 left +on a voyage of discovery that has been made famous by the observations of +Charles Darwin, who accompanied the expedition in the capacity of +naturalist.</p> + +<p>The notes which furnished the materials for this book were made by Mr. +Earle during his first visit to New Zealand, in 1827. They are valuable +as setting forth the impressions formed by an educated man, who came into +the primitive community then existing at Hokianga and the Bay of Islands, +without being personally connected either with the trading community, +the missionaries, or the whalers. It should not be inferred from the +reflections Mr. Earle casts upon the missionaries that he was himself an +irreligious man, because the journal of his residence on Tristan d'Acunha +shows that, while living there, he read the whole service of the Church +of England to that little community every Sunday, and his diary in many +places exhibits a reverence for Divine things. It may, however, be said +in extenuation of the lack of hospitality on the part of the missionaries +of which he complains, that many of the early residents and European +visitors to New Zealand were of an undesirable class, and that they +exercised a demoralising influence upon the Maoris. It was not easy for +the missionaries to consort, upon terms of intimacy, with their +fellow-countrymen whose relations with the Natives were such as they must +strongly condemn. Earle's narrative is interesting because it conveys a +realistic description of the Maoris before their national customs and +habits had undergone any material change through association with white +settlers. In dealing with Maori names, Mr. Earle, having at that period +no standard of orthography to guide him, followed the example of Captain +Cook in spelling words phonetically. Except in the case of certain +well-known places the original spelling has been retained in the present +edition of his book.</p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_I"></a><h2>CHAPTER I</h2> + +<h3>VOYAGE FROM SYDNEY</h3> + +<p>Having made up my mind to visit the island of New Zealand, and having +persuaded my friend Mr. Shand to accompany me, we made an arrangement for +the passage with Captain Kent, of the brig Governor Macquarie, and, +bidding adieu to our friends at Sydney, in a few hours (on October 20th, +1827) we were wafted into the great Pacific Ocean.</p> + +<p>There were several other passengers on board, who were proceeding to New +Zealand to form a Wesleyan missionary establishment at Hokianga. Amongst +these were a Mr. and Mrs. Hobbs, who were most enthusiastic in the cause. +They had formerly belonged to the same mission at Whangaroa, when a war +which took place amongst the natives totally destroyed their +establishment; and, after enduring great varieties of suffering, they +escaped, but lost everything they possessed, except the clothes they had +on. We had a very fine wind for nine days, and on the 29th we saw a +gannet, a sure sign we were within a hundred miles of land, for these +birds are never seen at a greater distance from it. True to our +anticipations, towards the afternoon the water became discoloured, and at +midnight we saw the land.</p> + +<p>This interesting island, of which we now got sight, was first discovered +by that eminent and enterprising Dutch navigator, Tasman, subsequently to +the discovery of Van Diemen's Land. His voyage from Batavia in 1642, +undertaken by order of the then Governor-General of Dutch India, Anthony +Van Diemen, was one of the most important and successful ever undertaken, +for it was during this voyage that New Holland was discovered, of which +Van Diemen's Land was then supposed to form a part, the extensive island +of New Zealand being supposed to form another portion.<a name="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1"><sup>[1]</sup></a></p> + +<p>The slight intercourse of the discoverers with the natives had so +calamitous a termination, and the exaggerated accounts it was then a kind +of fashion to give of savages, stigmatised the New Zealanders with such a +character for treachery and cruelty, that their island was not visited +again for upwards of a century, when the immortal Cook drew aside the +veil of error and obscurity from this unexplored land, and rescued the +character of its inhabitants from the ignominy which its original +discoverers, the Dutch, had thrown upon them. This immense tract of land +was imagined by Tasman to form but one island, and he most unaptly gave +it the name of New Zealand, from its great resemblance (as was stated) to +his own country.<a name="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2"><sup>[2]</sup></a></p> + +<p>In 1770 Cook discovered a strait of easy access and safe navigation, +cutting the island nearly in half, thus making two islands of what had +before been imagined but one. This strait bears his name, and is often +traversed by vessels from New South Wales returning home by way of Cape +Horn.</p> + +<p>In 1827 His Majesty's ship Warsprite passed through this strait in +company with the Volage, twenty-eight guns, being the first English line +of battleship which had ever made the attempt. A few years since, Captain +Stewart, commanding a colonial vessel out of Port Jackson, discovered +another strait, which cut off the extreme southern point, making it a +separate island that bears his name, and now almost every year our +sealers and whalers are making additional and useful discoveries along +its coasts.</p> + +<p>These islands lie between lat. 34° and 48°S. and long. 166° and 180°E. +The opening of the land to which we were now opposite, and which was our +destined port, the accurate eye of Cook had observed, but did not attempt +the entrance; and it is only about ten years since, when the two store +ships, the Dromedary and Coromandel, loaded with spars on the coast, that +a small vessel attending on those ships first crossed the bar; but +although they took soundings and laid down buoys, the commanders of the +large vessels were afraid of attempting the entrance, which proved their +good sense, for their great draught of water would have rendered the +undertaking more hazardous than the risk was worth. Yet during my +residence in this country two large vessels crossed the bar, and +recrossed it heavily laden, without the slightest accident—one the +Harmony, of London, 400 tons burden; the other the Elizabeth, of Sydney, +of nearly equal tonnage—but in proof that it is not always safe, a few +months after this, two schooners of extremely light draught were lost, +though they were both commanded by men who perfectly well knew the +channels through the bar. It was a singular circumstance that both +vessels had been built in New Zealand; one, the Herald, a small and +beautiful craft, built by and belonging to the Church missionaries, the +crew of which escaped, but the disastrous circumstances attending the +wreck of the other, called the Enterprise, I shall relate in their proper +place.</p> + +<p>The morning of the 30th was foggy and unfavourable, but it suddenly +cleared up, and exhibited the entrance of Hokianga right before us, and a +light breeze came to our aid to carry us in. The entrance to this river +is very remarkable, and can never be mistaken by mariners. On the north +side, for many miles, are hills of sand, white, bleak, and barren, ending +abruptly at the entrance of the river, which is about a quarter of a mile +across. Where the south head rises abrupt, craggy, and black, the land +all round is covered with verdure; thus, at the first glimpse of these +heads from the sea, one is white, the other black.</p> + +<p>The only difficulty attending the entrance (and, indeed, the only thing +which prevents Hokianga from being one of the finest harbours in the +world) is the bar. This lies two miles from the mouth of the river, its +head enveloped in breakers and foam, bidding defiance and threatening +destruction to all large ships which may attempt the passage. However, +we fortunately slipped over its sandy sides, undamaged, in three-fathom +water.</p> + +<p>After crossing the bar, no other obstacle lay in our way, and, floating +gradually into a beautiful river, we soon lost sight of the sea, and were +sailing up a spacious sheet of water, which became considerably wider +after entering it; while majestic hills rose on each side, covered with +verdure to their very summits. Looking up the river, we beheld various +headlands stretching into the water, and gradually contracting in width, +till they became fainter and fainter in the distance, and all was lost in +the azure of the horizon. The excitement occasioned by contemplating +these beautiful scenes was soon interrupted by the hurried approach of +canoes, and the extraordinary noises made by the natives who were in +them.</p> + +<p>FOOTNOTES:</p> + +<a name="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1">[1]</a><div class="note"><p> The Dutch and Spanish had discovered N.E. Australia as early +as 1606, and the Dutch had on several occasions visited the N.W. and +South coasts of the Continent before the date of Tasman's voyage.</p></div> + +<a name="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2">[2]</a><div class="note"><p> The name given by Tasman was Staten Landt. The name New +Zealand was bestowed in 1643 by the States-General of the United +Provinces.</p></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_II"></a><h2>CHAPTER II</h2> + +<h3>RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES</h3> + +<p>As the arrival of a ship is always a profitable occurrence, great +exertions are made to be the first on board. There were several canoes +pulling towards us, and from them a number of muskets were fired, a +compliment we returned with our swivels; one of the canoes soon came +alongside, and an old chief came on board, who rubbed noses with Captain +Kent, whom he recognised as an old acquaintance; he then went round and +shook hands with all the strangers, after which he squatted himself down +upon the deck, seeming very much to enjoy the triumph of being the first +on board. But others very soon coming up with us, our decks were crowded +with them, some boarding us at the gangway, others climbing up the chains +and bows, and finding entrances where they could. All were in perfect +good humour, and pleasure beamed in all their countenances.</p> + +<p>I had heard a great deal respecting the splendid race of men I was going +to visit, and the few specimens I had occasionally met with at Sydney so +much pleased me, that I was extremely anxious to see a number of them +together, to judge whether (as a nation) they were finer in their +proportions than the English, or whether it was mere accident that +brought some of their tallest and finest proportioned men before me.</p> + +<p>I examined these savages, as they crowded round our decks, with the +critical eye of an artist; they were generally taller and larger men +than ourselves; those of middle height were broad-chested and muscular, +and their limbs as sinewy as though they had been occupied all their +lives in laborious employments. Their colour is lighter than that of the +American Indian, their features small and regular, their hair is in a +profusion of beautiful curls, whereas that of the Indian is straight and +lank. The disposition of the New Zealander appears to be full of fun and +gaiety, while the Indian is dull, shy, and suspicious.</p> + +<p>I have known Indians in America from the north to the south—the +miserable, idiotic Botecooda of Brazil, the fierce warrior of Canada, and +the gentle and civilised Peruvian, yet in their features and complexions +they are all much alike. I observed their statures altered with their +different latitudes; the Chilians and the Canadians being nearly the +same, in figure tall, thin, and active, their climate being nearly the +same, although at the two extremes of America; while those living between +the equinoxes are short, fat, and lazy. I am persuaded that these South +Sea Islanders, though so nearly of the same complexion, still are not of +the same race, laziness being the characteristic of the American Indian +from north to south, while the New Zealanders are laborious in the +extreme, as their astonishing and minute carvings prove. The moment the +Indian tasted intoxicating spirits his valour left him, he became an +idiot and a tool in the hands of the white man. Here they have the utmost +aversion to every kind of "wine or strong drink," and very often severely +take us to task for indulging in such an extraordinary and debasing +propensity, or, as they call it, "of making ourselves mad;" but both +nations are equally fond of tobacco.</p> + +<p>The first thing which struck me forcibly was, that each of these savages +was armed with a good musket, and most of them had also a cartouch box +buckled round their waists, filled with ball cartridges, and those who +had fired their pieces from the canoes carefully cleaned the pans, +covered the locks over with a piece of dry rag, and put them in a secure +place in their canoes. Every person who has read Captain Cook's account +of the natives of New Zealand would be astonished at the change which has +taken place since his time, when the firing of a single musket would have +terrified a whole village.</p> + +<p>As we sailed up the river very slowly, the throng of savages increased to +such a degree that we could scarcely move, and, to add to our confusion, +they gave us "a dance of welcome," standing on one spot, and stamping so +furiously that I really feared they would have stove in the decks, which +our lady passengers were obliged to leave, as when the dance began each +man proceeded to strip himself naked, a custom indispensable among +themselves.</p> + +<p>We came to an anchor off a native village called Pakanae, where two +chiefs of consequence came on board, who soon cleared our decks of a +considerable number. We paid great attention to these chiefs, admitting +them into the cabin, etc., and it had the effect of lessening the noise, +and bringing about some kind of order amongst those who still continued +on deck. The names of these chiefs were Moetara and Akaeigh, and they +were the heads of the village opposite to which we had anchored. They +were well known to our captain, who spoke their language. They were +accustomed to the society of Europeans, also to transact business with +them; and as they were flax, timber, and hog merchants, they and the +captain talked over the state of the markets during the evening. They +were clothed in mats, called Kaka-hoos. The ladies joined our party at +supper, and we spent a very cheerful time with our savage visitors, who +both behaved in as polite and respectful a manner as the best educated +gentlemen could have done; their pleasing manners so ingratiated them +into the good opinion of the ladies, that they all declared "they would +be really very handsome men if their faces were not tattooed."</p> + +<p>The next day we received a visit from Mr. and Mrs. Butler, English +people, who had taken up their residence here for the purpose of trading, +and we returned with them on shore, taking our female passengers with us, +and leaving them in charge of Mrs. Butler. I determined to stroll through +the village, which is, in fact, a collection of rude huts, huddled +together without system or regularity. Dock leaves and weeds of every +description were growing luxuriantly all round them, and in many places +actually overtopping the houses, few being more than four feet high, with +a doorway about two feet. Scarcely any of them were inhabited, as at this +season of the year the greater part of the population prefer living in +the open air to remaining in their small, smoky ovens of houses.</p> + +<p>I had not rambled far before I witnessed a scene which forcibly reminded +me of the savage country in which I then was, and the great alteration of +character and customs a few days' sail will make. The sight to me so +appalling was that of the remains of a human body which had been roasted, +and a number of hogs and dogs were snarling and feasting upon it! I was +more shocked than surprised, for I had been informed of the character of +the New Zealanders long before my arrival amongst them; still, the +coming suddenly and unexpectedly upon a sight like this completely +sickened me of rambling, at least for that day, and I hastened back to +Mr. Butler's, eager to inquire into the particulars of the horrid +catastrophe.</p> + +<p>That gentleman informed me that the night of the arrival of our ship, a +chief had set one of his kookies (or slaves) to watch a piece of ground +planted with the kumara, or sweet potato, in order to prevent the hogs +committing depredations upon it. The poor lad, delighted with the +appearance of our vessel, was more intent upon observing her come to an +anchor than upon guarding his master's property, and suffered the hogs to +ramble into the plantation, where they soon made dreadful havoc. In the +midst of this trespass and neglect of orders his master arrived. The +result was certain; he instantly killed the unfortunate boy with a blow +on the head from his stone hatchet, then ordered a fire to be made, and +the body to be dragged to it, where it was roasted and consumed.</p> + +<p>It was now time to return on board, and we walked down to the beach for +that purpose, but it was quite low water, and the boat was full two +hundred feet off. She lay at the end of a long, slimy, muddy flat, and +while we were debating how we should manage to get to her, the native +chiefs took up the females in their arms, as though they were children, +and, in spite of all their blushes and remonstrances, carried them to the +boat and placed them safely in it, each seeming to enjoy the task. They +then returned and gave us a passage, walking as easily with us upon their +backs as if we had been no heavier than so many muskets. We took care not +to shock the feelings of the females by letting them know the tragedy so +lately acted in the village, or horrify them by telling them that one of +their carriers was the murderer! It would have been difficult to have +made them believe that such a noble-looking and good-natured fellow had +so lately imbrued his hands in the blood of a fellow creature.</p> + +<p>We had now been lying here two days, and the curiosity of the people did +not diminish, nor were our visitors less numerous. Parties were hourly +coming up and down the river to pay their respects to our captain, and +the report of there being numerous passengers on board greatly increased +their desire to hold intercourse with us. They all appeared anxious to +make themselves useful, some chopping wood for our cook, others assisting +the steward, in order to get what might be left on the plates, others +brought small presents of fish; in fact, all availed themselves of any +excuse to get on board; yet, notwithstanding the crowd, and the confusion +attending their movements, there was scarcely any thieving amongst them. +They have seen the detestation that theft is held in by Europeans, and +the injury it does to trade, and have, in consequence, nearly left it +off. None but the meanest slaves will now practise it, and they do so at +the risk of their lives; for, if caught in the act, and the charge is +proved against them, their heads are cut off!</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_III"></a><h2>CHAPTER III</h2> + +<h3>A RAMBLE ASHORE</h3> + +<p>On November 3rd we visited Pakanae, a village lying round the base of a +large conical hill, about three hundred feet high, with a fortification +on the top, which gives it its name, pa signifying in their language a +fortified place. Behind it lies a swamp, which is covered at high water, +and which adds greatly to its security; for the unsettled and war-like +spirit of the natives renders it absolutely necessary that they always +should have a place of strength near at hand to retreat to, as they never +know how suddenly their enemies may make an attack upon them. To the +right of this swamp is a beautiful valley, in a very high state of +cultivation. At the time I stood viewing it from the summit of the hill, +I was charmed with the scene of industry and bustle it presented, all the +inhabitants of the village having gone forth to plant their potatoes, +kumaras, and Indian corn. In the rear, and forming a fine, bold +background, is an immense chain of high and rugged hills, covered to +their summits with thick forests, and forming, as it were, a natural +barrier and protection to this smiling and fruitful valley, while from +their wooded sides issue innumerable small streams of clear water, which, +meeting at the base, form beautiful rivulets, and after meandering +through the valley, and serving all the purposes of irrigation, they +empty themselves into the Hokianga river.</p> + +<p>Standing on the spot from which I have described the above prospect, I +felt fully convinced of the frugality and industry of these savages. The +regularity of their plantations, and the order with which they carry on +their various works, differ greatly from most of their brethren in the +South Seas, as here the chiefs and their families set the example of +labour; and when that is the case, none can refuse to toil. Round the +village of Pakanae, at one glance is to be seen above 200 acres of +cultivated land, and that not slightly turned up, but well worked and +cleared; and when the badness of their tools is considered, together with +their limited knowledge of agriculture, their persevering industry I look +upon as truly astonishing.</p> + +<p>The New Zealanders have established here a wise custom, which prevents a +great deal of waste and confusion, and generally preserves to the planter +a good crop, in return for the trouble of sowing; namely, as soon as the +ground is finished, and the seed sown, it is <i>tabooed,</i> that, is rendered +sacred, by men appointed for that service, and it is death to trample +over or disturb any part of this consecrated ground. The wisdom and +utility of this regulation must be obvious to every one. But, however +useful this taboo system is to the natives, it is a great inconvenience +to a stranger who is rambling over the country, for if he does not use +the greatest caution, and procure a guide, he may get himself into a +serious dilemma before his rambles be over, which had nearly been the +case with our party this day. We were ascending a hill, for the purpose +of inspecting a New Zealand fortification on the summit, when a little +boy joined our party, either out of curiosity, or in hopes of getting a +fish-hook from us—a thing the natives are continually asking for; but as +we had a man with us who spoke the language fluently, we did not much +regard the boy's guidance, though to us it speedily became of great +importance. We were taking a short cut, to make a quick ascent to the top +of the hill, when the little fellow uttered a cry of horror. Our +interpreter asked him what he meant, when he pointed his finger forward, +and told him to look, for the ground was tabooed. We did as he desired +us, but beheld nothing particular, till he showed us, in one of the +trees, among the branches, a large bunch of something, but we could not +make out what it was. This, he told us, was the body of a chief, then +undergoing the process of decomposition, previous to interment, which +process is witnessed by men appointed for that purpose, who alone are +permitted to approach the spot. The ground all round is tabooed, so that, +had it not been for the interference of our young guide, we should +certainly have been placed in a most distressing situation; and it is a +question if our ignorance of their customs would have been considered a +sufficient excuse for our offence.</p> + +<p>The top of this hill was level and square, and was capable of containing +several hundred warriors. It was cut into slopes all round, and fortified +by stockades in every direction, which rendered it impregnable. The +natives assured me its strength had been often tried. The famous warrior +Hongi had attacked it several times, but had always been defeated with +great loss. After inspecting this fortification, which excited our +admiration, we proceeded through the village at the bottom of the hill. +Nearly the whole of the inhabitants were out working in the fields. We +entered several of their habitations, and found all their property +exposed and unguarded. Even their muskets and powder, which they prize +above everything, were open to our inspection, so little idea of robbery +have they amongst themselves. But as there are many hogs and dogs roaming +at large through their villages, they are very careful to fence their +dwellings round with wicker work, to preserve them from the depredations +of these animals; and as the houses are extremely low, they have very +much the appearance of bird cages or rabbit hutches. Their storehouses +are generally placed upon poles, a few feet from the ground, and tabooed +or consecrated. Great taste and ingenuity are displayed in carving and +ornamenting these depositories. I made drawings from several of them, +which were entirely covered with carving; and some good attempts at +groups of figures, as large as life, plainly showed the dawning of the +art of sculpture amongst them. Many of the attempts of the New Zealanders +in that art are quite as good, if not better, than various specimens I +have seen of the first efforts of the early Egyptians.</p> + +<p>Painting and sculpture are both arts greatly admired by these rude +people. Every house of consequence is ornamented and embellished, and +their canoes have the most minute and elaborate workmanship bestowed upon +them.</p> + +<p>Their food is always eaten out of little baskets, rudely woven of green +flax; and as they generally leave some for their next meal, they hang +these baskets on sticks or props, till they are ready to eat again. Thus +a village presents a very singular appearance, as it is stuck full of +sticks, with various kinds of baskets hanging from them. This plan, +however, is the most rational that could be adopted, as none of their +eatables can be left on the ground, or they would become the prey of the +hogs and dogs.</p> + +<p>In the course of our long ramble we noticed many pretty little huts, some +having neat gardens all round them, planted with fruits and corn. One +house which we saw was built by a chief who had made several voyages to +Port Jackson, and it was really a very comfortable dwelling. It had a +high door, which we could enter without stooping, and in a separate room +was constructed a bed, after the pattern of one on ship-board. He had +likewise a large sea-chest in his house, the key of which (highly +polished) was hung round his neck as an ornament. In the course of our +walk we came to a spot on which a group of old people were sitting +sunning themselves, and they immediately all rose to welcome us. I +remarked one amongst them who seemed, from his silvery locks and feeble +limbs, to be very old. I asked him, among other questions, whether he +remembered Captain Cook. He said he did not, but well recollected Captain +Furneaux, and was one of the party which cut off and massacred his boat's +crew; and from other information which I received I believe his assertion +to have been correct.<a name="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3"><sup>[3]</sup></a></p> + +<p>FOOTNOTES:</p> + +<a name="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3">[3]</a><div class="note"><p> Captain Furneaux's account of this massacre is printed in +the Appendix.</p></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_IV"></a><h2>CHAPTER IV</h2> + +<h3>THE HOKIANGA RIVER EIGHTY YEARS AGO</h3> + +<p>As our missionary passengers had by this time fixed upon the spot where +they intended to establish their settlement, and it being several miles +up the river, we got under weigh to proceed thither. The captain's +agreement being to that effect, we proceeded with the first fair wind, +about twenty miles up the stream, which was as far as we could with +safety take the vessel. The shores on each side this noble river are +composed of hills gradually rising behind each other, most of them +covered with woods to the water's edge. Not a vestige of a habitation is +to be seen, and if it had not been for the occasional sight of a canoe, +we might have imagined the country to be totally uninhabited. Opposite a +small island, or, rather, sand-bank, the vessel grounded, and had to +remain there till the next tide floated her off. It was a curious and +interesting spot, being a native pa and depot, and was entirely covered +with storehouses for provisions and ammunition. The centre was so +contrived that all assailants might be cut off before they could effect a +landing; and we were all much gratified by the judgment and forethought +displayed in this little military work. The next morning we got off, but +could not proceed far, as the shoals were becoming so numerous as to +render the navigation dangerous. But here we beheld, with both surprise +and satisfaction, a most unexpected sight, namely, a snug little colony +of our own countrymen, comfortably settled and usefully employed in this +savage and unexplored country. Some enterprising merchants of Port +Jackson have established here a dockyard and a number of sawpits. Several +vessels have been laden with timber and spars; one vessel has been built, +launched, and sent to sea from this spot; and another of a hundred and +fifty tons burthen was then upon the stocks!</p> + +<p>On landing at this establishment at Te Horeke, or, as the Englishmen have +called it, "Deptford," I was greatly delighted with the appearance of +order, bustle, and industry it presented. Here were storehouses, +dwelling-houses, and various offices for the mechanics; and every +department seemed as well filled as it could have been in a civilised +country. To me the most interesting circumstance was to notice the great +delight of the natives, and the pleasure they seemed to take in observing +the progress of the various works. All were officious to "lend a hand," +and each seemed eager to be employed. This feeling corresponds with my +idea of the best method of civilising a savage. Nothing can more +completely show the importance of the useful arts than a dockyard. In it +are practised nearly all the mechanical trades; and these present to the +busy enquiring mind of a New Zealander a practical encyclopaedia of +knowledge. When he sees the combined exertions of the smith and carpenter +create so huge a fabric as a ship, his mind is filled with wonder and +delight; and when he witnesses the moulding of iron at the anvil, it +excites his astonishment and emulation.</p> + +<p>The people of the dockyard informed me that, although it was constantly +crowded with natives, scarcely anything had ever been stolen, and all the +chiefs in the neighbourhood took so great an interest in the work that +any annoyance offered to those employed would immediately be revenged as +a personal affront.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_V"></a><h2>CHAPTER V</h2> + +<h3>JOURNEY OVERLAND TO BAY OF ISLANDS</h3> + +<p>Here we left the brig to unload her cargo; my friend Shand and myself +having determined to proceed overland to the Bay of Islands. An +intelligent chief, hearing of our intention, offered to accompany us +himself, and lent us two of his kookies to carry our baggage. We accepted +the chieftain's offer, and several other natives joined the party to bear +us company.</p> + +<p>November 7.—We all embarked in a canoe, in order to reach the head of +the river before we began our pedestrian tour; and, after paddling about +eight or nine miles further up, where the river became exceedingly +narrow, we came to another English settlement. This consisted of a party +of men who had come out in the Rosanna, the vessel employed by the New +Zealand Company. When all ideas of settling were totally abandoned by the +officers sent out for that purpose, these men chose rather to remain by +themselves than to return home; and we found them busily employed in +cutting timber, sawing planks, and making oars for the Sydney market. How +far they may prove successful, time only can develop; but as these +enterprising men had only their own industry to assist them, it could not +be expected that their establishment could bear a comparison with the one +at Te Horeke, which is supported by several of the most wealthy +merchants of New South Wales.</p> + +<p>As the river became narrower, the habitations of the natives were more +numerous. The chief of this district (whose name is Patuone) has a +splendid village very near the carpenters' establishment we have just +described. He had taken these industrious men under his especial +protection, and seemed very proud of having a settlement of that kind in +his territories, as it gave him power and consequence among all the +neighbouring chiefs, from the trade he carried on by means of their +exertions.</p> + +<p>Patuone had likewise induced the Wesleyan missionaries to settle upon his +land, about a mile below; so that the head of this river assumed quite +the appearance of a civilised colony.</p> + +<p>Our party now disembarked. We landed in a dense forest, which reached to +the water's edge; and our guides and slaves began to divide the loads +each was to carry on his back. Several joined us from the two English +stations on the river, and we then amounted to a very large party; all in +high spirits, and anxious to proceed on our journey. When our natives had +distributed the luggage, they loaded themselves, which they did with both +skill and quickness; for a New Zealander is never at a loss for cords or +ropes. Their plan is to gather a few handfuls of flax, which they soon +twist into a very good substitute: with this material they formed slings, +with which they dexterously fastened our moveables on their backs, and +set off at a good trot, calling out to us to follow them.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_VI"></a><h2>CHAPTER VI</h2> + +<h3>MEETING WITH THE CHIEF PATUONE</h3> + +<p>We travelled through a wood so thick that the light of heaven could not +penetrate the trees that composed it. They were so large and so close +together that in many places we had some difficulty to squeeze ourselves +through them. To add to our perplexities, innumerable streams intersected +this forest, which always brought us Europeans to a complete standstill. +The only bridges which the natives ever think of making are formed by +cutting down a tree, and letting it fall across; and over these our +bare-legged attendants, loaded as they were, scrambled with all the +agility of cats or monkeys; but it was not so with us: for several times +they seated one of us on the top of their load, and carried him over. The +chief, who accompanied us, made it his particular business to see me safe +through every difficulty, and many times he carried me himself over such +places as I dared scarcely venture to look down upon.</p> + +<p>In the midst of this wood we met the chief of this district, Patuone, +who, together with all his family, were employed in planting a small, +cleared patch of land. He appeared highly delighted at beholding +strangers; and all his wives came from their occupations to welcome us. +He told us that, a very few miles farther on, we should come to a village +belonging to him, where his eldest son was residing, and that we must +there pass the night.</p> + +<a name="image-2"><!-- Image 2 --></a> +<center> +<img src="img/img2.jpg" width="600" height="707" alt="Patuone, a Notable Hokianga Chief." title="Patuone, a Notable Hokianga Chief."> +</center> +<h5>Patuone, a Notable Hokianga Chief.</h5> + +<p>We thanked him for the invitation, rubbed noses with him (their token of +friendship), and parted.</p> + +<p>Soon after parting with Patuone, we fell in with a most beautiful bull, +cow, and calf. I was amazed at seeing such fine animals in this country; +but my companions soon cleared up the mystery by informing me that they +were gifts from the missionaries, who had orders from Home to distribute +these useful animals amongst such chiefs as they thought would take care +of them: a wise and beneficial measure. These animals were tabooed, +consequently they could ramble wherever they found food most to their +liking. About dusk we arrived at the village Patuone had described to us. +We were most happy to see it, as we were heartily tired, and dripping wet +from a recent and heavy shower.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_VII"></a><h2>CHAPTER VII</h2> + +<h3>A MAORI VILLAGE</h3> + +<p>The village was situated on the side of a small, picturesque stream, one +of the branches of the Hokianga, but continued droughts had at this time +reduced it to a trifling brook. From its lofty banks, and the large trees +lying athwart it, we conjectured that during heavy rains it must be a +mighty flood. A long straggling collection of huts composed the village: +a great deal of land in its vicinity was cleared and planted, which +doubtless was the ostensible object of Patuone's people being here. As +the village lay upon the opposite shore from that on which we arrived, we +sat some time under the shelter of a large tree, to contemplate its +appearance, and to give time to arrange our party for passing the stream, +and also for my making a sketch. The red glare of the setting sun, just +touching the top of every object, beautifully illuminated the landscape; +and its rays bursting through the black woods in the background, gave the +woods an appearance of being on fire; while a beautiful rainbow, thrown +across the sky, tinged the scene with a fairy-land effect.</p> + +<p>As soon as they perceived us from the opposite shore, a loud shout of +welcome was raised, and all the inhabitants came out to meet us. They +carried us over the stream, conducted us to their huts, and then sat down +to gaze at and admire us.</p> + +<p>As we were very hungry after our fatiguing walk, we soon unpacked our +baggage, and in so doing made an unavoidable display of many valuable and +glittering objects, which roused the attention of our savage spectators, +and caused them, on the unfolding of every fresh object, to make loud and +long exclamations of wonder and amazement. As I was then "a stranger in +their land," and unaccustomed to their peculiarities, I felt a little +alarmed at their shouts; but, on a longer acquaintance with them, I found +my fears had been groundless.</p> + +<p>Here we saw the son of Patuone, accompanied by thirty or forty young +savages, sitting or lying all round us. All were exceedingly handsome, +notwithstanding the wildness of their appearance and the ferocity of +their looks. Let the reader picture to himself this savage group, +handling everything they saw, each one armed with a musket, loaded with +ball, a cartouch-box buckled round his waist, and a stone patoo-patoo, or +hatchet, in his hand, while human bones were hung round each neck by way +of ornament; let the scene and situation be taken into consideration, and +he will acknowledge it was calculated to make the young traveller wish +himself safe at home; but, when I suspected, I wronged them; for after +admiring everything we had brought with us (more especially our +fowling-pieces, which were very beautiful ones), they begged a little +tobacco, then retired to a distance from the hut which had been prepared +for our reception, and left us to take our supper uninterrupted; after +which they placed all our baggage in the hut, that we might be assured of +its safety.</p> + +<p>It proved a rainy, miserable night; and we were a large party, crowded +into a small, smoky hut, with a fire lighted in the middle; as, after +our supper, the natives, in order to have as much of our company as +possible, crowded it till it was literally crammed. However annoying this +might be, still I was recompensed by the novelty and picturesque +appearance of the scene. Salvator Rosa could not have conceived a finer +study of the horrible. A dozen men, of the largest and most athletic +forms, their cakahoos (or mat-dresses) laid aside, and their huge limbs +exposed to the red glare of the fire; their faces rendered hideous by +being tattooed all over, showing by the firelight quite a bright blue; +their eyes, which are remarkable for their fierce expression, all fixed +upon us, but with a look of good temper, co-mingled with intense +curiosity. All my fears had by this time subsided, and, being master of +myself, I had leisure to study and enjoy the scene; we smoked a social +pipe with them (for they are all immoderately fond of tobacco), and I +then stretched myself down to sleep amidst all their chattering and +smoke.</p> + +<p>But all my attempts at slumber were fruitless. I underwent a simultaneous +attack of vermin of all descriptions; fleas, mosquitoes, and sand-flies, +which, beside their depredations on my person, made such a buzzing noise, +that even the chattering of the natives could not drown it, or the smoke +from the fire or pipes drive them away.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_VIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER VIII</h2> + +<h3>TOILSOME JOURNEY THROUGH THE FOREST</h3> + +<p>Next morning, at daybreak, we took leave of our hosts, and proceeded on +our journey; we had eight miles more of this thick forest to scramble +through, and this part we found considerably worse than that we had +traversed yesterday. The roots of trees covered the path in all +directions, rendering it necessary to watch every step we took, in order +to prevent being thrown down; the supple-jacks, suspended and twining +from tree to tree, making in many places a complete net-work; and while +we were toiling with the greatest difficulty through this miserable road, +our natives were jogging on as comfortably as possible: use had so +completely accustomed them to it, that they sprung over the roots, and +dived under the supple-jacks and branches, with perfect ease, while we +were panting after them in vain. The whole way was mountainous. The +climbing up, and then descending, was truly frightful; not a gleam of sky +was to be seen, all was a mass of gigantic trees, straight and lofty, +their wide spreading branches mingling overhead, and producing throughout +the forest an endless darkness and unbroken gloom.</p> + +<p>After three or four hours of laborious struggling, we emerged from the +wood, and found ourselves upon an extensive plain, which, as far as the +eye could reach, appeared covered with fern. A small path lay before us, +and this was our road. The New Zealanders always travel on foot, one +after the other, or in Indian file. Their pathways are not more than a +foot wide, which to a European is most painful; but as the natives +invariably walk with the feet turned in, or pigeon-toed, they feel no +inconvenience from the narrowness. When a traveller is once on the path, +it is impossible for him to go astray. No other animal, except man, ever +traverses this country, and <i>his</i> track cannot be mistaken, since none +ever deviate from the beaten footpath, which was in consequence, in some +places (where the soil was light), worn so deep as to resemble a gutter +more than a road. We proceeded for many miles in this unsocial manner; +unsocial, for it precludes all conversation. Our natives occasionally +gave us a song, or, rather, dirge, in which they all joined chorus. +Having at length attained the summit of a hill, we beheld the Bay of +Islands, stretching out in the distance; and at sunset we arrived at the +Kerikeri river, where there is a Church-missionary settlement.</p> + +<a name="image-3"><!-- Image 3 --></a> +<center> +<img src="img/img3.jpg" width="600" height="327" alt="Mission Station, Kerikeri." title="Mission Station, Kerikeri."> +</center> + +<h5>Mission Station, Kerikeri.</h5> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_IX"></a><h2>CHAPTER IX</h2> + +<h3>THE MISSIONARY SETTLEMENT AT KERIKERI</h3> + +<p>We had travelled all day through a country in which every object we saw +was of a character that reminded us forcibly of the savage community we +were with. Occasionally we met groups of naked men, trotting along under +immense loads, and screaming their barbarous songs of recognition; +sometimes we beheld an uncouthly carved figure, daubed over with red +ochre, and fixed in the ground, to give notice that one side of the road +was tabooed. An extraordinary contrast was now presented to our view, for +we came suddenly in front of a complete little English village. Wreaths +of white smoke were rising from the chimneys, of neat weather-boarded +houses. The glazed windows reflected the brilliant glow from the rays of +the setting sun, while herds of fat cattle were winding down the hills, +lowing as they leisurely bent their steps toward the farm-yard. It is +impossible for me to describe what I felt on contemplating a scene so +similar to those I had left behind me.</p> + +<p>According to the custom of this country, we fired our muskets, to warn +the inhabitants of the settlement of our approach. We arranged our +dresses in the best order we could, and proceeded towards the village. As +the report of our guns had been heard, groups of nondescripts came +running out to meet us. I could scarcely tell to what order of beings +they belonged; but on their near approach, I found them to be the New +Zealand youths, who were settled with the missionaries. They were habited +in the most uncouth dresses imaginable. These pious men, certainly, have +no taste for the picturesque; they had obscured the finest human forms +under a seaman's huge clothing. Boys not more than fifteen wore jackets +reaching to their knees, and buttoned up to the throat with great black +horn buttons, a coarse checked shirt, the collar of which spread half-way +over their face, their luxuriant, beautiful hair was cut close off, and +each head was crammed into a close Scotch bonnet!</p> + +<p>These half-converted, or, rather, half-<i>covered</i>, youths, after rubbing +noses, and chattering with our guides, conducted us to the dwellings of +their masters. As I had a letter of introduction from one of their own +body, I felt not the slightest doubt of a kind reception; so we proceeded +with confidence. We were ushered into a house, all cleanliness and +comfort, all order, silence, and unsociability. After presenting my +letter to a grave-looking personage, it had to undergo a private +inspection in an adjoining room, and the result was an invitation "to +stay and take a cup of tea!" All that an abundant farm and excellent +grocer in England could supply were soon before us. Each person of the +mission, as he appeared during our repast, was called aside, and I could +hear my own letter read and discussed by them. I could not help thinking +(within myself) whether this was a way to receive a countryman at the +Antipodes! No smile beamed upon their countenance; there were no +inquiries after news; in short, there was no touch of human sympathy, +such as we "of the world" feel at receiving an Englishman under our roof +in such a savage country as this!</p> + +<p>The chubby children who peeped at us from all corners, and the very +hearty appearance of their parents, plainly evidenced that theirs was an +excellent and thriving trade. We had a cold invitation to stay all night; +but this the number of our party entirely precluded; so they lent us +their boat to convey us to the Bay of Islands, a distance of about +twenty-five miles.</p> + +<p>As the night proved dark and stormy, and as our boat was crowded with +natives, our passage down the Kerikeri river became both disagreeable and +dangerous. The river being filled with rocks, some under, and others just +above the water, we were obliged to keep a good look-out. After +experiencing many alarms, we arrived safely at Kororareka beach about +midnight, where an Englishman of the name of Johnstone gave us a shelter +in his hut.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_X"></a><h2>CHAPTER X</h2> + +<h3>THE BAY OF ISLANDS</h3> + +<p>In the morning we beheld two vessels at anchor in the harbour. The +Indian, whaler, of London, and the East India Company's ship Research; +which latter ship had been cruising in search of the wreck of the vessels +under the command of La Perouse, and had completely elucidated the +circumstances relating to that event. The Bay of Islands is surrounded by +lofty and picturesque hills, and is secured from all winds. It is full of +lovely coves, and a safe anchorage is to be found nearly all over it; +added to this, a number of navigable rivers are for ever emptying +themselves into the Bay, which is spotted with innumerable romantic +islands all covered with perpetual verdure.</p> + +<p>It is with peculiar interest that we look upon the spot where the +illustrious Cook cast anchor after his discovery of this Bay. Some +unhappy quarrels with the natives occasioned much blood to be shed on +both sides, and for a long time caused this island to be looked upon with +horror, and avoided by all Europeans. It was the courage and enterprise +of the crews of our South Sea Whalers who exhibited these interesting +islanders in their true character, and proved to the world that it was +quite as safe to anchor in the Bay of Islands as in the harbour of Port +Jackson.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XI"></a><h2>CHAPTER XI</h2> + +<h3>THE MASSACRE OF THE "BOYD"</h3> + +<p>Since the time of Cook, and other circumnavigators of that period, the +character of these people has undergone a thorough change. Then it was +necessary when a ship anchored, that the boarding nettings should be up, +and all the arms ready for immediate use. The principal object the chiefs +had in view seemed to be to lull the commanders into a fatal security, +then to rush upon them, seize their vessel, and murder all the crew! Too +often had they succeeded, and as often have they paid most dearly for +their treachery and cruelty. In the case of the ship Boyd, though they +attained their object, they were as completely punished for their +perfidy. From their ignorance of the nature of powder, and the use of a +magazine, they blew up the ship, and vast numbers of the natives were +destroyed. Besides this calamity, they brought down upon themselves the +vengeance of every vessel that visited these shores for a long period +afterwards. As the circumstances may not be generally known, Mr. Berry's +letter, relating the particulars of that melancholy, yet interesting +event, is here inserted:—</p> + +<span style="margin-left: 16.5em;">"Ship, City of Edinburgh,</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 20em;">"Lima, Oct. 20, 1810.</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Sir,—</span><br> + +<div class="blkquot"><p>I am very sorry to have the painful task of introducing myself to + you, with an account of the loss of your ship Boyd, Captain + Thompson.</p> + +<p> Towards the end of last year I was employed in the Bay of + Islands, New Zealand, in procuring a cargo of spars for the Cape + of Good Hope. About the middle of December the natives brought me + an account of a ship's being taken at Whangaroa, a harbour about + fifty miles to the N.W. At first we were disposed to doubt the + truth of this report, but it every day became more probable, from + the variety of circumstances they informed us of; and which were + so connected as appeared impossible for them to invent. + Accordingly, about the end of the month, when we had finished our + cargo, although it was a business of some danger, I determined to + go round.</p> + +<p> "I set out with three armed boats: we experienced very bad + weather, and after a narrow escape were glad to return to the + ship. As we arrived in a most miserable condition, I had then + relinquished all idea of the enterprise; but having recruited my + strength and spirits, I was shocked at the idea of leaving any of + my countrymen in the hands of savages, and determined to make a + second attempt. We had this time better weather, and reached the + harbour without any difficulty. Whangaroa is formed as + follows:—First, a large outer bay, with an island at its + entrance; in the bottom of this bay is seen a narrow opening, + which appears terminated at the distance of a quarter of a mile; + but, upon entering it, it is seen to expand into two large + basins, at least as secure as any of the docks on the banks of + the Thames, and capable of containing (I think) the whole British + navy. We found the wreck of the Boyd in shoal water, at the top + of the harbour, a most melancholy picture of wanton mischief. The + natives had cut her cables, and towed her up the harbour till she + had grounded, and then set her on fire, and burnt her to the + water's edge. In her hold were seen the remains of her + cargo—coals, salted seal skins, and planks. Her guns, iron, + standards, etc., were lying on the top, having fallen in when her + decks were consumed.</p> + +<p> "The cargo must have been very valuable; but it appears that the + captain, anxious to make a better voyage, had come to that port + for the purpose of filling up with spars for the Cape of Good + Hope.</p> + +<p> "Not to tire you with the minutia of the business, I recovered + from the natives a woman, two children, and a boy of the name of + Davies, one of your apprentices, who were the only survivors. I + found also the accompanying papers, which, I hope, may prove of + service to you. I did all this by gentle measures, and you will + admit that bloodshed and revenge would have answered no good + purpose. The ship was taken the third morning after her arrival. + The captain had been rather too hasty in resenting some slight + theft. Early in the morning the ship was surrounded by a great + number of canoes, and many natives gradually insinuated + themselves on board. Tippahee, a chief of the Bay of Islands, and + who had been twice at Port Jackson, also arrived; he went into + the cabin, and, after paying his respects to the captain, begged + a little bread for his men; but the captain received him rather + slightingly, and desired him to go away, and not trouble him, as + he was busy.</p> + +<p> "The proud old savage (who had been a constant guest at the + Governor's table at Port Jackson) was highly offended at this + treatment, immediately left the cabin, and, after stamping a few + minutes on the deck, went into his canoe. After breakfast the + captain went on shore with four hands, and no other arms but his + fowling-piece. From the account of the savages, as soon as he + landed they rushed upon him; he had only time to fire his piece, + and it killed a child. As soon as the captain left the ship, + Tippahee (who remained alongside in his canoe) came again on + board. A number of sailors were repairing sails upon the quarter + deck, and the remainder were carelessly dispersed about, and + fifty of the natives were sitting on the deck. In a moment they + all started up, and each knocked his man on the head: a few ran + wounded below, and four or five escaped up the rigging, and in a + few seconds the savages had complete possession of the ship. The + boy Davies escaped into the hold, where he lay concealed for + several days, till they were fairly glutted with human blood, + when they spared his life. The woman says she was discovered by + an old savage, and that she moved him by her tears and embraces; + that he (being a subordinate chief) carried her to Tippahee, who + allowed him to spare her life. She says, that at this time the + deck was covered with human bodies, which they were employed in + cutting up; after which they exhibited a most horrid dance and + song in honour of their victory, and concluded by a hymn of + gratitude to their god.</p> + +<p> "Tippahee now took the speaking trumpet, and hailing the poor + wretches at the mast-head, told them that he was now captain, + and that they must in future obey his commands. He then ordered + them to unbend the sails, they readily complied; but when he + ordered them to come down they hesitated, but he enforced prompt + obedience by threatening to cut away the masts. When they came + down he received them with much civility, and told them he would + take care of them; he immediately ordered them into a canoe, and + sent them on shore. A few minutes after this the woman went on + shore with her deliverer. The first object that struck her view + was the dead bodies of these men, lying naked on the beach. As + soon as she landed a number of men started up, and marched + towards her with their patoo-patoos. A number of women ran + screaming betwixt them, covered her with their clothes, and by + tears and entreaties saved her life.</p> + +<p> "The horrid feasting on human flesh which followed would be too + shocking for description. The second mate begged his life at the + time of the general massacre; they spared him for a fortnight, + and then killed and eat him. I think if the captain had received + Tippahee with a little more civility, that he would have informed + him of his danger, and saved the ship; but that from being + treated in the manner I have mentioned, he entered into the plot + along with the others.</p> + +<p> "I assure you it has been a most unpleasant thing for me to write + about, and I could only have been induced to do it from a sense + of duty, and a desire to give you all the information in my + power, which I suppose may be of some use.</p></div> + +<span style="margin-left: 6em;">"I am, Sir,</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 10em;">"Your obedient humble servant,</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 19em;">"ALEXANDER BERRY."</span><br> + +<p>Considering Mr. Berry's limited acquaintance with these islanders, and +the horror of the scene before him, his is a good and an impartial +account; but facts which have been obtained subsequently have exonerated +the natives to a certain extent. By repeated conversations I have held +with several chiefs who were engaged in this dreadful affair, and from +information I procured at Sydney, I have no doubt but that the Captain +himself was the most in fault.</p> + +<a name="image-4"><!-- Image 4 --></a> +<center> +<img src="img/img4.jpg" width="600" height="359" alt="Whangaroa, Scene of the "Boyd" Massacre." title=" Whangaroa, Scene of the "Boyd" Massacre."> +</center> + +<h5>Whangaroa, Scene of the "Boyd" Massacre.</h5> + +<p>He was commissioned by the Government of New South Wales to land a native +chief named Philip at New Zealand, whom he subjected to a cruel and +impolitic punishment. This man, smarting from his stripes, and burning +with a desire to revenge his dishonourable treatment, excited all his +friends to the commission of that bloody massacre.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XII</h2> + +<h3>THE FIRST SETTLEMENT AT KORORAREKA</h3> + +<p>The tragic fate of the Boyd's crew is now fast sinking into oblivion; +and, like the islanders of Hawaii, after the murder of Cook, they seem to +wish to obliterate the remembrance of their disgraceful conduct by a kind +and friendly intercourse with our nation. The severe chastisement which +they have always received from us after a treacherous action, has proved +to them how little they gain by so debasing a line of conduct; and as +they are most anxious to possess many of our productions, they seem to +have come to a resolution to abandon their former system; which, if they +may not be sensible of the injustice of, they see is destructive to their +own interests; and now every chief is as solicitous for the safety of a +European vessel as he would have been formerly for its destruction.</p> + +<p>They have not only lost a portion of their ferocity, but also much of +their native simplicity of character, which, in all parts of the world, +is so highly interesting a study for the traveller. Their constant +intercourse with whalers, who are generally low, unpolished men, leaves +behind it a tinge of vulgarity, of which the native women retain the +largest portion. In many instances, they quite spoil their good looks, by +half adopting the European costume. Those who are living in the +retirement of their own villages have a natural ease and elegance of +manner, which they soon lose after their introduction to our rough +sailors. I have seen a party of very handsome girls, just landing from +one of the whalers, their beautiful forms hid under old greasy red or +checked shirts, generally put on with the hind parts before. In some +cases the sailors, knowing their taste for finery, bring out with them, +from London, old tawdry gowns, and fierce coloured ribands. And thus +equipped, they come on shore the most grotesque objects imaginable, each +highly delighted with her gaudy habiliments.</p> + +<p>Kororareka beach, where we took up our residence, seemed the general +place of rendezvous for all Europeans whom chance might bring into this +bay. At this time there were two large vessels lying at anchor within a +quarter of a mile of the shore, and I was informed there were sometimes +as many as twelve or thirteen.</p> + +<p>The spot is a most delightful one, being about three-quarters of a mile +in extent, sheltered by two picturesque promontories, and possessing a +fine circular, firm, sandy beach, on which there is seldom much surf, so +that boats can at all times land and haul up. Scattered amongst the +rushes and small bushes is seen a New Zealand village, which at first +landing is scarcely perceptible, the huts being so low. Some of them are +of English design, though of native workmanship. These are generally the +dwellings of some Europeans, who are of so doubtful a character that it +would be difficult to guess to what order of society they belonged +previous to their being transplanted amongst these savages.</p> + +<p>I found a respectable body of Scotch mechanics settled here, who came out +in the New Zealand Company's ship Rosanna, and who determined to remain +at Kororareka. Their persevering industry as yet has been crowned with +success, and they seem well pleased with the prospects before them.</p> + +<p>Here, these hardy sons of Britain are employed in both carrying on and +instructing the wondering savage in various branches of useful art. Here +the smith has erected his forge, and his sooty mansion is crowded by +curious natives, who voluntarily perform the hardest and most dirty work, +and consider themselves fully recompensed by a sight of his mysterious +labours, every portion of which fills them with astonishment. Here is +heard daily the sound of the sawpit, while piles of neat white planks +appear arranged on the beach. These laborious and useful Scotchmen +interfere with no one, and pursue successfully their industrious career, +without either requiring or receiving any assistance from Home.</p> + +<p>But there is another class of Europeans here, who are both useless and +dangerous, and these lower the character of the white people in the +estimation of the natives. These men are called "Beach Rangers," most of +whom have deserted from, or have been turned out of whalers for crimes, +for which, had they been taken Home and tried, they would have been +hanged; some few among them, having been too lazy to finish the voyage +they had begun, had deserted from their ships, and were then leading a +mean and miserable life amongst the natives.</p> + +<p>There is still a third class of our countrymen to be met with here, whose +downcast and sneaking looks proclaim them to be runaway convicts from New +South Wales. These unhappy men are treated with derision and contempt by +all classes; and the New Zealanders, being perfectly aware of their state +of degradation, refuse all intercourse with them. They are idle, +unprincipled, and vicious in the extreme, and are much feared in the Bay +of Islands; for when by any means they obtain liquor, they prove +themselves most dangerous neighbours.</p> + +<p>My friend Shand and myself were most comfortably situated. An intimate +friend of mine (Captain Duke, of the whaler The Sisters) had, in +consequence of ill-health, taken up his residence on shore while his +vessel completed her cruise. In his hut we found comfort and safety; and +from his information and advice we were enabled to avoid the advances of +all whom his experience had taught him were to be shunned.</p> + +<p>On terms of the closest intimacy, and with his hut adjoining that of my +friend Captain Duke, lived Shulitea<a name="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4"><sup>[4]</sup></a> (or King George, as he styled +himself), a chief of great power, who controlled the whole of the +district where we were. We all felt grateful to him for his +manifestations of friendship, and at the same time were conscious of +enjoying a greater degree of security by his proximity. He was the first +chief who offered protection to "the white people," and he has never been +known to have broken his engagement. An unexpected and remarkable +instance of his adherence to their interests, in spite of temptation, +took place a few years since, which I deem worthy of relation here.</p> + +<p>The ship Brompton, in endeavouring to work out of the bay, by some +accident got on shore, and finally became a complete wreck. This fine +vessel, with a valuable cargo on board, lay helpless on the beach, and +the crew and passengers expected nothing less than plunder and +destruction. The natives from the interior, hearing of the circumstance, +hastened down in vast numbers to participate in the general pillage. But +King George summoned all his warriors to his aid, and with this party +placed himself between the wreck and those who came to plunder it. I was +informed by several who were present at the time, that, after declaring +that "not an article should be taken till himself and all his party were +destroyed," he advanced, and thus explained his reasons for protecting +the strangers and their property:—</p> + +<p>"You" (said King George) "come from the interior; all of you think only +of what you can get, without considering the consequences, which, indeed, +are of little import to you, living, as you do, out of reach of the +reproaches and vengeance of the white men. But look how differently I am +situated. I live on the beach; this Bay is my residence; I invite the +white men to come and trade here under the promise of my protection; they +come; several years of profitable trading have passed between us. King +George, they say, is a good man; now an accident has befallen one of +their ships in my territory, what must King George do? Why, he <i>must</i> +assist them; which he <i>will</i> do, and defend them against everyone who +shall attempt to injure them." In consequence of this speech, and his +exertions, not a thing was taken from the wreck by the savages who had +collected for that purpose.</p> + +<p>FOOTNOTES:</p> + +<a name="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4">[4]</a><div class="note"><p> The chief referred to by Mr. Earle as Shulitea, or King +George, was a noted Bay of Islands chief named Whareumu. He was killed in +a fight with the Hokianga tribes, in March, 1828. (See appendix.)</p></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XIII</h2> + +<h3>MAORI NON-PROGRESSIVENESS</h3> + +<p>This anecdote proves that King George and his people possessed feelings +of honour and generosity, which, if properly cultivated, might lead to +the most happy results. From the length of time these people have been +known to the Europeans, it might naturally be expected that great changes +would have taken place in their habits, manners, arts, and manufactures; +but this is not the case. Their huts are of the same diminutive +proportions as described by Captain Cook; their clothing and mats, their +canoes and paddles, are precisely the same as when that navigator +described them. When they can obtain English tools, they use them in +preference to their own; still their work is not better done. The only +material change that has taken place is in their mode of warfare.</p> + +<p>The moment the New Zealanders became acquainted with the nature of +firearms, their minds were directed but to one point, namely, to become +possessed of them. After many ingenious and treacherous attempts to +obtain these oft-coveted treasures, and which, for the most part, ended +in their defeat, they had recourse to industry, and determined to create +commodities which they might fairly barter for these envied muskets. +Potatoes were planted, hogs were reared, and flax prepared, not for their +own use or comfort, but to exchange with the Europeans for firearms. +Their plans succeeded; and they have now fairly possessed themselves of +those weapons, which at first made us so formidable in their eyes; and as +they are in constant want of fresh supplies of ammunition, I feel +convinced it will always be their wish to be on friendly terms with us, +for the purpose of procuring these desirable stores. I have not heard of +a single instance in which they have turned these arms against us, though +they are often grossly insulted.</p> + +<p>In their combats with each other, firearms are used with dreadful effect. +The whole soul of a New Zealander seems absorbed in the thoughts of war; +every action of his life is influenced by it; and to possess weapons +which give him such a decided superiority over those who have only their +native implements of offence, he will sacrifice everything. The value +attached by them to muskets, and their ceaseless desire to possess them, +will prove a sufficient security to foreigners who enter their harbours, +or remain on their coasts; as I know, from experience, that the New +Zealanders will rather put up with injuries than run the risk of +offending those who manufacture and barter with them such inestimable +commodities.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XIV"></a><h2>CHAPTER XIV</h2> + +<h3>A MISSION SETTLEMENT</h3> + +<p>A few days after my arrival in the Bay, I crossed to the opposite side, +to visit the Church missionary settlement, and to deliver a letter of +introduction I had to one of the members. Here, on a beautiful bank, with +a delightful beach in front, and the entrance of the bay open to them, +the clear and blue expanse of water speckled over with fertile islands, +reside these comfortable teachers of the Gospel. The name they have given +this spot is "Marsden Vale." They very soon gave us to understand they +did not wish for our acquaintance, and their coldness and inhospitality +(I must acknowledge) created in my mind a thorough dislike to them. The +object of the mission, as it was first planned, might have been attained, +and might have proved highly beneficial to the New Zealanders; but as it +is now conducted, no good result can be expected from it. Any man of +common sense must agree with me, that a savage can receive but little +benefit from having the abstruse points of the Gospel preached to him, if +his mind is not prepared to receive them. This is the plan adopted here; +and nothing will convince these enthusiasts that it is wrong, or induce +them to change it for one more agreeable to the dictates of reason.</p> + +<p>Upon inquiring who and what these men were, I found that the greater part +of them were hardy mechanics (not well-educated clergymen), whom the +benevolent and well-intentioned people of England had sent out in order +to teach the natives the importance of <i>different trades</i>—a most +judicious arrangement, and which ought to be the foundation of all +missions. What could be a more gratifying sight than groups of these +athletic savages, toiling at the anvil or the saw; erecting for +themselves substantial dwellings; thus leading them by degrees to know +and to appreciate the comforts resulting from peaceful, laborious, and +useful occupations? Then, while they felt sincere gratitude for services +rendered them, at their leisure hours, and on certain days, <i>these</i> +missionaries should attempt to expound to them, in as simple a manner as +possible, the nature of revealed religion!</p> + +<p>In New Zealand, the "mechanic" missionary only carries on his trade till +he has every comfort around him—his house finished, his garden fenced, +and a strong stockade enclosing all, to keep off the "pagan" savages. +This done, then commences the easy task of preaching. They collect a few +ragged urchins of natives, whom they teach to read and write their own +language—the English tongue being forbidden; and when these children +return to their families, they are despised by them, as being effeminate +and useless.</p> + +<p>I once saw a sturdy blacksmith in the prime of life, sitting in the midst +of a group of savages, attempting to expound to them the mysteries of our +holy redemption—perplexing his own brains, as well as those of his +auditors, with the most incomprehensible and absurd opinions. How much +better would he have been employed in teaching them how to weld a piece +of iron, or to make a nail!</p> + +<p>What causes much disapprobation here, is the contemptuous manner in which +they treat their own countrymen, as they receive most of them on the +outside of their stockade fence.</p> + +<p>On our return from Marsden Vale, our savage friends laughed heartily at +us. They had warned us of the reception we should meet with; and their +delight at seeing us again formed a strange contrast to that of their +Christian teachers, whose inhospitable dwellings we determined never to +reenter.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XV"></a><h2>CHAPTER XV</h2> + +<h3>A VISIT FROM HONGI</h3> + +<p>A few days after my visit to the missionaries, while we were busily +employed in constructing our huts, assisted by about fifty natives, on a +sudden a great commotion took place amongst them. Each left his work and +ran to his hut, and immediately returned armed with both musket and +cartouch box: apparently all the arms in the village were mustered, and +all seemed ready for immediate use. On inquiring into the cause of all +these war-like preparations, I was informed that Hongi and his chief men +were crossing the bay in several large war canoes; and though he was +considered as a friend and ally, yet, as he was a man of such desperate +ambition, and consummate cunning, it was considered necessary to receive +him under arms, which he might take either as a compliment, or as a proof +of how well they were aware of the guest they were receiving.</p> + +<p>This man, Hongi, was a most extraordinary character, and a person I had +long had a great curiosity to see, his daring and savage deeds having +often been the subject of conversation in New South Wales. In his own +country he was looked upon as invulnerable and invincible. In the year +1821 he had visited England, during which he had been honoured by having +a personal interview with George the Fourth, and had received from His +Majesty several valuable presents; amongst others, were a superb suit of +chain armour, and a splendid double-barrelled gun. From possessing these +arms, so far superior to any of his neighbours, he looked upon himself +as impossible to be conquered, and commenced a career of warfare and +destruction on all his enemies, and nearly exterminated them. His friends +called him "a god," and his enemies feared him as "a devil." Last year, +Hongi made war upon, and totally annihilated, the tribe who had fifteen +years previously attacked and murdered the crew of the Boyd. He had long +determined to take revenge for that treacherous action, as he always +styled himself "the friend of the English." After this, he removed his +residence, and took possession of the conquered district. But in this his +last battle he had to fight without his invulnerable coat of mail, his +slaves having stolen it and gone over with it to the enemy. His people +were now confirmed in their superstition respecting its being proof +against shot, by his having received during the combat a bullet in the +breast, from the effects of which he is fast sinking into the grave. His +companions related the following extraordinary anecdote concerning him +after he received this wound, which proves his great presence of mind.</p> + +<p>His party were retreating, and the enemy were charging him vigorously; +Hongi stood alone when he received the bullet; he did not fall +immediately, and the enemy were eagerly running up to despatch him, when +he roused all his energies, and shouted aloud for the two hundred chiefs, +who lay concealed, to rush forward and fall on. The foe, hearing this, +paused, when about a dozen chiefs, and indeed, as Hongi well knew, all +that he had, suddenly made their appearance. This caused a panic; they +turned about; the pursued became the pursuers, and nearly the whole tribe +were destroyed.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XVI"></a><h2>CHAPTER XVI</h2> + +<h3>INTERVIEW WITH THE GREAT MAORI CONQUEROR</h3> + +<p>He landed about a mile from the village, and we lost no time in procuring +an interpreter, with whom we went instantly to pay our respects to this +celebrated conqueror.</p> + +<p>We found him and his party; his slaves preparing their morning repast. +The scene altogether was highly interesting. In a beautiful bay, +surrounded by high rocks and overhanging trees, the chiefs sat in mute +contemplation, their arms piled up in regular order on the beach. Hongi, +not only from his high rank (but in consequence of his wound being +toboo'd, or rendered holy), sat apart from the rest. Their richly +ornamented war canoes were drawn up on the strand; some of the slaves +were unlading stores, others were kindling fires. To me it almost seemed +to realise some of the passages of Homer, where he describes the wanderer +Ulysses and his gallant band of warriors. We approached the chief, and +paid our respects to him. He received us kindly, and with a dignified +composure, as one accustomed to receive homage. His look was emaciated; +but so mild was the expression of his features, that he would have been +the last man I should have imagined accustomed to scenes of bloodshed and +cruelty. But I soon remarked, that when he became animated in +conversation, his eyes sparkled with fire, and their expression changed, +demonstrating that it only required his passions to be roused to exhibit +him under a very different aspect. His wife and daughter were permitted +to sit close to him, to administer to his wants, no others being allowed +so to do, on account of his taboo.</p> + +<p>He was arrayed in a new blanket, which completely enveloped his figure, +leaving exposed his highly-tattooed face, and head profusely covered with +long, black, curling hair, adorned with a quantity of white feathers. He +was altogether a very fine study; and, with his permission, I made a +sketch of him, and also one including the whole group. Finding we were +newcomers, he asked us a variety of questions, and, among others, our +opinion of his country. His remarks were judicious and sensible, and he +seemed much pleased with our admiration of his territory. I produced a +bottle of wine that I had brought with me, and his wife supplied him with +a few glasses, which seemed to revive and animate him.</p> + +<p>We were then invited to join him in a trip in one of his canoes, in which +was placed a bed for him to recline upon; his wife seated herself close +to him, while his daughter, a very pretty, interesting girl about fifteen +years of age, took a paddle in her hand, which she used with the greatest +dexterity. I took the liberty of presenting her with a bracelet, with +which she seemed highly delighted; when Hongi, perceiving that I was in a +giving mood, pointed to his beard, and asked me for a razor. Fortunately, +I had put one in my pocket on setting out, and I now presented it to +him, by which gifts we continued on terms of great sociability and +friendship. After a pleasant cruise with this (to us) extraordinary +family, and contriving to make ourselves pretty well understood, we +returned about the close of the day, and landed at the bay. All the +natives were much delighted at our confidence in them, and we were +equally gratified by their hospitality.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XVII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XVII</h2> + +<h3>A MAORI WELCOME</h3> + +<p>I was much amused with the punctilios used in the visit of ceremony paid +to King George. Hongi, accompanied by about a dozen of his chiefs, +advanced towards our settlement, leaving their guns and hatchets behind +them; as they approached, all our tribe discharged their pieces in the +air. When they met, all rubbed noses (a ceremony never to be dispensed +with on formal occasions). They were then conducted by King George to his +huts on the beach, and in the enclosure in front of them the warriors +squatted on the ground. Hongi, being tabooed, or under the immediate +protection of their Atua, or God, still sat apart. Then the mother of +George, called Tururo, or the Queen, and who is regarded quite as a sybil +by the whole tribe, approached Hongi with the greatest respect and +caution, and seated herself some paces from his feet. She then began, +with a most melancholy cadence (her eyes streaming with tears and fixed +upon the ground), the song of welcome. All their meetings of ceremony or +friendship begin with the shedding of copious floods of tears; and as +Hongi's visit was such an unhoped for and unexpected honour, so much +greater in proportion was the necessity for their lamentations. This +woeful song lasted half an hour, and all the assembly were soon in tears; +and though at first I was inclined to turn it into ridicule, I was soon +in the same state myself. The pathetic strain, and the scene altogether, +was most impressive. As the song proceeded, I was informed of the nature +of the subject, which was a theme highly calculated to affect all +present. She began by complimenting the wounded warrior, deploring the +incurable state of his wound, and regretting that God was wanting him, +and was about so soon to take him from his friends! Then she recounted +some of his most celebrated deeds of valour, naming and deploring the +number of his friends who had fallen bravely in the wars, and lamenting +that the enemies who had killed them were still living! This part seemed +to affect them powerfully; and when Tururo ceased her song (being quite +exhausted) they all rose, thus demonstrating their respect and +approbation.</p> + +<p>This was followed by a general attack upon the good things King George +had prepared for them. The slaves came flocking in, bearing baskets of +hot kumaras, potatoes, and fish. I observed their tears had not spoiled +their appetites; they ate voraciously. After having done great honour to +the feast, they all started on their feet for a dance, which lasted a +long while, and with which they concluded the evening.</p> + +<p>The dances of all savage nations are beautiful, but those of the New +Zealanders partake also of the horrible. The regularity of their +movements is truly astonishing; and the song, which always accompanies a +dance, is most harmonious. They soon work themselves up to a pitch of +frenzy; the distortions of their face and body are truly dreadful, and +fill the mind with horror. Love and war are the subjects of their songs +and dances; but the details of the latter passion are by far the most +popular among them. I was astonished to find that their women mixed in +the dance indiscriminately with the men, and went through all those +horrid gestures with seemingly as much pleasure as the warriors +themselves.</p> + +<p>The next morning I was awakened, at daybreak, by the most dismal sounds I +had ever heard. I started up, and found it proceeded from the tribes +parting with each other. They had divided themselves into little parties, +each forming a circle, and were crying most piteously, and cutting their +flesh as a cook would score pork for roasting. On such occasions each is +armed with a sharp shell, or, if he can possibly obtain so valuable a +prize, a piece of a broken glass bottle. All were streaming with tears +and blood, while Hongi and his friends embarked in their large and +richly-ornamented canoes, and sailed from our beach. After his departure, +I soon discovered that, notwithstanding their apparent affection, King +George and his friends were most happy their visitors had left them; and +that it was more the dread of Hongi's power, than love for him, that +induced them to treat him with such respect and homage.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XVIII</h2> + +<h3>EXCURSIONS IN THE INTERIOR</h3> + +<p>I made several excursions into the interior, and each confirmed me in the +good opinion I had formed of the natives. I felt myself quite safe +amongst them. There is a great peculiarity in rambling through this +country; namely, the total absence of quadrupeds. There are abundance of +birds, which are so numerous at times as almost to darken the air—many +of them possessing very sweet notes; and wild ducks, teal, etc., cover +the various streams. Wherever I went I did not discover any grass, almost +every part being covered either with fern or flax; the former yielding +the natives their principal article of food, and the latter their +clothing. To this dearth of animals may be attributed the chief cause of +their ferocity and propensity to cannibalism.</p> + +<p>In most uncivilised countries the natives use their arms against the wild +animals of the forest. The dangers and difficulties they encounter in +overcoming them form a kind of prelude to war, and perfect them in the +use of their weapons. The rifle of the North American Indian would never +be so much dreaded did he not depend upon its produce for his +subsistence. I have myself (during my travels through North America) had +many opportunities of witnessing the certain aim they take both with the +arrow and the bullet; while those in the southern parts of that vast +continent, who depend on taking the wild cattle, acquire, by constant +practice, an equal dexterity with the <i>lassoo</i>, which those who have not +witnessed it could scarcely imagine possible. The New Zealander, while +handling a musket, is quite in a state of trepidation; and though it is +his darling weapon he seems always afraid of it, and is never sure of his +aim till he is quite close to his object. I have mentioned this fact to +several Europeans who had accompanied various tribes to battle, and they +all informed me they made a sad bungling use of the musket; their aim +would be surer if they had large and ferocious animals to hunt or contend +with. There is another circumstance that operates against their acquiring +skill in the use of the gun: they are so fond of cleaning, scrubbing, and +taking them to pieces, that in a short time the locks become loose, the +screws are injured, and they are soon rendered entirely useless, to the +great surprise and dismay of their owners, who are constantly pestering +the Europeans by bringing them <i>sick</i> muskets (as they call them) to look +at, and put to rights, and are quite surprised that we "cannot make them +well again." They cannot be made to comprehend that every white man does +not know how to make a musket, or, at least, to repair it.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XIX"></a><h2>CHAPTER XIX</h2> + +<h3>ENTERTAINED BY MAORI WOMEN</h3> + +<p>On the 24th November we took our departure from the bay, as we had to +return to Hokianga, where we had left our brig; and it was only under a +promise of making a speedy return, and remaining longer with them, that +our savage friends would suffer us to leave them. We expected to reach +the Kerikeri River before night; but in this we were disappointed. It at +length became quite dark; and the ebb tide making against us, rendered +further advance impossible. We had to seek some place of shelter for the +night, and not a hut was visible. While we were debating on what was best +to be done, we observed a light from the shore, and made for it; but, it +being low water, our boat stuck fast in the slime long before we reached +the banks; we were, consequently, obliged to wade knee-deep through the +slippery mud. We soon discovered a party of women sitting round a fire +made in the midst of the swamp. They had come here for the purpose of +procuring shell-fish; and as they are never very fastidious about shelter +or dry beds, they had determined (according to their usual custom) to +pass the night where they had been occupied during the day. This sort of +bivouac I found excessively uncomfortable. The moment we were seated the +water began to ooze out an inch or two all round us. We sought in vain +for a dry place, for we were enveloped in darkness, and surrounded by +rushes and flags six or seven feet high; but, being very much fatigued, +we slept, notwithstanding the misery of a wet bed, with a cloud of fog +for curtains. I did not wake till one of the women gave me a good shake, +and informed me that the day was well up. They had prepared us a +breakfast of hot shell-fish, which they had caught the preceding day, and +they all seemed delighted by our eating heartily of them. As we had some +biscuits in our boat, we sent for them, and gave our "fair founders of +the feast" a share; and we were all very sociable and merry. When we left +them, as it was again low water, the women carried us to our boat, and +took their leave of us amidst peals of laughter. This was another proof +to me that the English are quite safe, though travelling unguarded, +amongst these people.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XX"></a><h2>CHAPTER XX</h2> + +<h3>LOADING SPARS AT HOKIANGA</h3> + +<p>About nine the next morning we reached the Kerikeri River; and, it being +Sunday, the members of the mission met us on landing, and used all their +endeavours to prevent our travelling on that day; but, independent of the +urgent necessity of our reaching Hokianga, the captain of our vessel, who +was with us, being particularly anxious to return on board, we continued +our journey, and at night came to a bivouac in a dense wood, so that we +now had the luxury of stretching our weary limbs on dry ground. The next +day, as we journeyed towards the river, we fell in with all our old +friends, who inquired into the particulars of our adventures, and seemed +highly delighted at our return.</p> + +<p>We found "all right" on board the brig; but as she was chartered to go to +Tongataboo I and my friend Shand determined to remain at New Zealand till +her return. Our principal difficulty seemed to be which side of the +island we should make choice of for a dwelling-place. When it became +known to the natives that we intended to remain with them, several chiefs +came and offered us their protection; and each would have built us a +house, but we preferred making our sojourn at the Bay of Islands. We were +often at a loss how to evade the kind importunities of our savage hosts +without giving them offence. "Is not our country as good as +theirs?"—"Are you not as safe amongst us?"—"Are we not as willing and +as capable of protecting you as Shulitea?" These were the arguments they +used; and, finally, we were obliged to inform them that we had a friend +and countryman (Captain Duke) settled on the other side, who was +preparing a house for our reception. On being informed of this +circumstance they consented to part with us, though evidently with great +reluctance.</p> + +<p>While we lay here the ship Harmony, of London, Captain Middleton, arrived +from Sydney for a cargo of spars. So large a vessel entering the port put +the whole district into commotion; and when the chiefs understood the +nature of her wants, and had seen the fine double-barrelled guns and +store of powder to be given as payment for the wished-for freight, they +hastened to the woods, and the axe was soon laid to the roots of the +trees. I saw them pursuing their laborious employ with alacrity. In a few +days a sufficient number of fine logs came floating down the river to +load the ship, and they were all cleared in a workmanlike manner, ready +to stow away. The chief things to induce these people to work are +firearms and powder; these are two stimulants to their industry which +never fail.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXI"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXI</h2> + +<h3>DEATH OF A GREAT CHIEF</h3> + +<p>A few days after our return to Hokianga we received intelligence that A +Rowa, the father of Mooetara, and the eldest chief in the district, was +dead. These deaths, when they occur among men of rank, are generally +accompanied by some horrible scenes of butchery among their slaves—a +common custom among all savages, but practised here (I was informed) with +peculiar cruelty. We went on shore to witness the ceremony of A Rowa's +lying in state, hoping at the same time that our presence might induce +them to dispense with some of those barbarous cruelties which generally +accompany their funeral rites. We had, indeed, every reason to think we +had conjectured rightly, for nothing of the kind took place; which was +considered by all as a circumstance somewhat remarkable. A great +concourse of savages had assembled all round the village of the deceased +chief, and there was a tremendous firing of muskets, but no particular +marks of grief. I spoke to Mooetara, and requested, as a favour, if it +were not breaking through their established rules, that he would conduct +me to the body of his father. He accordingly led me to the outside of the +village; and under a rude hut (constructed for the purpose) lay the body +of the deceased chief, closely covered up with mats, leaving only part of +the face and head exposed; in his hair was stuck a profusion of long +white feathers, by way of ornament. Two women (whom I understood were his +wives) sat close to the corpse; they were painted all over with red +ochre, and seemed to perform the parts of chief mourners. These kept up a +low moaning noise, and occasionally whisked off the flies from the face +of the deceased. The women, the corpse, the hut, and the ground for some +space round them, were all strictly tapued. Some bundles of fish, and +some calabashes filled with oil, were left close by the body, intended +for his consumption during his passage to the next world.</p> + +<p>I imagine that one reason of no outrage having been committed during this +solemn occasion was our brig being on the point of sailing, and previous +to her departure a great deal of traffic was expected to be carried on +with the natives, for there was still a considerable quantity of muskets +undisposed of; and I think, in this instance, avarice overcame filial +affection—the minds of the chief's family being so intent upon obtaining +good bargains, that they had not time to sit and mourn over their +departed parent, nor to work themselves up into a paroxysm of passion +sufficiently violent to cause them to murder their slaves. This afforded +me a convincing proof that as soon as they are occupied by commerce, or +the useful arts, their barbarous rites will gradually be discontinued, +and will speedily cease altogether.</p> + +<p>Our brig having sailed, we were again alone with these wild yet +interesting people. We expected our stay might be about six months, and +had provided a stock-in-trade, consisting of a barrel of powder, half a +dozen muskets, some fish-hooks, and a quantity of tobacco. Everything we +possessed we delivered into the hands of the natives, who accounted to +us for the stock thus entrusted to their management with the most +scrupulous exactness. Nothing can be fairer than their mode of bartering +with the Europeans; the prices are fixed; ten large hogs, or 120 baskets +of potatoes (about a ton and a-half), are given for a musket; for small +articles, such as fish, Indian corn, or fruits, the ready money are +fish-hooks and tobacco. As we were now about to become inhabitants of New +Zealand, it became necessary that we should be well acquainted with the +particulars of their methods of "doing business," and that we should +apply ourselves diligently to the study of the language, which we +acquired much more readily than I had anticipated.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXII</h2> + +<h3>BRUTAL MURDER OF A WIFE</h3> + +<p>A few days after the departure of the brig I witnessed a specimen of +their summary method of executing justice. A chief, resident in the +village, had proof of the infidelity of one of his wives; and, being +perfectly sure of her guilt, he took his patoo-patoo (or stone hatchet) +and proceeded to his hut, where this wretched woman was employed in +household affairs. Without mentioning the cause of his suspicion, or once +upbraiding her, he deliberately aimed a blow at her head, which killed +her on the spot; and, as she was a slave, he dragged the body to the +outside of the village, and there left it to be devoured by the dogs. The +account of this transaction was soon brought to us, and we proceeded to +the place to request permission to bury the body of the murdered woman, +which was immediately granted. Accordingly, we procured a couple of +slaves, who assisted us to carry the corpse down to the beach, where we +interred it in the most decent manner we could.</p> + +<p>This was the second murder I was very nearly a witness to since my +arrival; and the indifference with which each had been spoken of induced +me to believe that such barbarities were events of frequent occurrence; +yet the manners of all seemed kind and gentle towards each other; but +infidelity in a wife is never forgiven here; and, in general, if the +lover can be taken, he also is sacrificed along with the adulteress. +Truth obliges me to confess that, notwithstanding these horrors staring +them in the face, they will, if opportunity offers, indulge in an +intrigue.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXIII</h2> + +<h3>ANOTHER JOURNEY TO BAY OF ISLANDS</h3> + +<p>As there were two roads across to the Bay of Islands, and I was anxious +to see as much of the country as possible, I determined that my second +journey should be by the longest route. I set off, accompanied only by a +native boy to carry a small portmanteau and to serve me as a guide. As, +on my former journey, we travelled many miles through thick tangled +forests, fatiguing beyond description. In the midst of our toilsome +progress, night frequently overtook us; then, by means of my +fowling-piece, I procured a light, the boy made a fire, and we passed the +night in this vast wilderness, far from the habitation of any human +being! At daybreak we resumed our journey, and at length (about ten +o'clock) we emerged from the wood, and entered upon extensive plains. +These were not naked deserts, similar to the ones I had passed through on +my former route, but were diversified with bush and brake, with a number +of small villages scattered in various directions. At mid-day we arrived +at what in New Zealand is considered a town of great size and importance, +called Ty-a-my. It is situated on the sides of a beautiful hill, the top +surmounted by a pa, in the midst of a lonely and extensive plain, covered +with plantations of Indian corn, Kumara and potatoes. This is the +principal inland settlement, and, in point of quiet beauty and +fertility, it equalled any place I had ever seen in the various countries +I have visited. Its situation brought forcibly to my remembrance the +scenery around Canterbury.</p> + +<p>We found the village totally deserted, all the inhabitants being employed +in their various plantations; they shouted to us as we passed, thus +bidding us welcome, but did not leave their occupations to receive us. To +view the cultivated parts of this country from an eminence a person might +easily imagine himself in a civilised land; for miles around the village +of Ty-a-my nothing but beautiful green fields present themselves to the +eye. The exact rows in which they plant their Indian corn would do credit +to a first-rate English farmer, and the way in which they prepare the +soil is admirable. The greatest deficiency which I observed in the +country around me was the total absence of fences; and this defect +occasions the natives a great deal of trouble, which might very easily be +avoided. Hogs are the principal part of their wealth, with which, at all +times, they can traffic with vessels touching at their ports. These +animals, consequently, are of the utmost importance to them; but during +the growth of their crops, the constant watching the hogs require to keep +them out of the plantations consumes more time than would effectually +fence in their whole country; but I have no doubt, as they already begin +to follow our advice and adopt our plans, they will soon see the utility +of fencing in their land. I have at various times held many conversations +with different chiefs on this subject, all of whom have acknowledged the +propriety of so doing.</p> + +<p>A few miles after leaving this beautiful village we came to a spot +covered with heaps of cinders and hillocks of volcanic matter. I found +all these hillocks small craters, but none of them, burning; and for +miles our road lay through ashes and lava. These fires must have been +extinguished many ages since, as there is not the slightest tradition +among any of the natives of their ever having been burning.</p> + +<p>After passing over this lava, our journey lay through a very swampy +country, intersected with streams. I got completely wearied with +stripping to wade through them, so that at length I plunged in clothes +and all. At the close of a most fatiguing day's march, we arrived in +sight of the bay, having travelled over an extent of about fifty miles +since the morning! No canoe being in sight, and we being too distant to +make signals to our brig, we had to pass another night in bivouac on a +part of the beach called Waitangi; and as it did not rain we slept pretty +comfortably. The next morning I procured a canoe, and went on board our +vessel.</p> + +<p>The day following the brig took her final departure from New Zealand, and +we bade farewell to Captain Kent. We now formally placed ourselves under +the protection of King George, who seemed highly pleased with his charge; +and in a few days three good houses were ready for our reception—one for +ourselves, a second for our stores, and a third for our servants. But our +pleasant prospects were soon obscured by a circumstance totally +unexpected, which placed us in a most critical situation, and which we +had every reason to fear would lead to our total destruction.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXIV"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXIV</h2> + +<h3>VISIT OF A WAR PARTY</h3> + +<p>I was roused one morning at daybreak by my servant running in with the +intelligence that a great number of war canoes were crossing the bay. As +King George had told us but the evening before that he expected a visit +from Ta-ri-ah, a chief of the tribe called Ngapuhis, whose territory lay +on the opposite side of the bay, and given us to understand that Ta-ri-ah +was a man not to be trusted, and therefore feared some mischief might +happen if he really came, the sight of these war canoes naturally caused +us considerable alarm, and we sincerely wished that the visit was over.</p> + +<p>We dressed ourselves with the utmost expedition, and walked down to the +beach. The landing of these warriors was conducted with a considerable +degree of order, and could I have divested myself of all ideas of danger +I should have admired the sight excessively. All our New Zealand +friends—the tribe of Shulitea—were stripped naked, their bodies were +oiled, and all were completely armed; their muskets were loaded, their +cartouch boxes were fastened round their waists, and their patoo-patoos +were fixed to their wrists. Their hair was tied up in a tight knot at the +top of their heads, beautifully ornamented with feathers of the +albatross. As the opposite party landed, ours all crouched on the ground, +their eyes fixed on their visitors, and perfectly silent. When the +debarkation was completed I observed the chief, Ta-ri-ah, put himself at +their head, and march towards us with his party formed closely and +compactly, and armed with muskets and paddles. When they came very near +they suddenly stopped. Our party continued still mute, with their +firelocks poised ready for use. For the space of a few minutes all was +still, each party glaring fiercely on the other; and they certainly +formed one of the most beautiful and extraordinary pictures I had ever +beheld. The foreground was formed by a line of naked savages, each +resting on one knee, with musket advanced, their gaze fixed on the +opposite party, their fine, broad, muscular backs contrasting with the +dark foliage in front, and catching the gleam of the rising sun. The +strangers were clothed in the most grotesque manner imaginable—some +armed, some naked, some with long beards, others were painted all over +with red ochre; every part of each figure was quite still, except the +rolling and glaring of their eyes on their opponents. The background was +formed by the beach, and a number of their beautiful war canoes dancing +on the waves; while, in the distance, the mountains on the opposite side +of the bay were just tinged with the varied and beautiful colours of the +sun, then rising in splendour from behind them.</p> + +<p>The stillness of this extraordinary scene did not last long. The Ngapuhis +commenced a noisy and discordant song and dance, yelling, jumping, and +making the most hideous faces. This was soon answered by a loud shout +from our party, who endeavoured to outdo the Ngapuhis in making horrible +distortions of their countenances; then succeeded another dance from our +visitors, after which our friends made a rush, and in a sort of rough +joke set them running. Then all joined in a pell-mell sort of encounter, +in which numerous hard blows were given and received; then all the party +fired their pieces in the air, and the ceremony of landing was thus +deemed completed. They then approached each other, and began rubbing +noses; and those who were particular friends cried and lamented over each +other.</p> + +<p>The slaves now commenced the labour of making fires to cook the morning +meal, while the chiefs, squatting down, formed a ring, or, rather, an +oblong circle, on the ground; then one at a time rose up, and made long +speeches, which they did in a manner peculiar to themselves. The speaker, +during his harangue, keeps running backwards and forwards within the +oblong space, using the most violent but appropriate gesticulation; so +expressive, indeed, of the subject on which he is speaking, that a +spectator who does not understand their language can form a tolerable +idea as to what the affair is then under debate. The orator is never +interrupted in his speech; but, when he finishes and sits down, another +immediately rises up and takes his place, so that all who choose have an +opportunity of delivering their sentiments, after which the assembly +breaks up.</p> + +<p>Though the meeting of these hostile tribes had thus ended more amicably +than King George and his party could have expected, it was easily to be +perceived that the Ngapuhis were determined on executing some atrocity or +depredations before their return; they accordingly pretended to recollect +some old offence committed by the English settlers at the other end of +the beach. They proceeded thither, and first attacked and broke open the +house of a blacksmith, and carried off every article it contained. They +then marched to the residence of an English captain (who was in England), +and plundered it of everything that could be taken away, and afterwards +sent word they intended to return to our end of the beach. Our fears were +greatly increased by finding that our friends were not sufficiently +strong to protect us from the superior force of the Ngapuhis, and our +chief, George, being himself (we supposed) conscious of his inability, +had left us to depend upon our own resources.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXV"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXV</h2> + +<h3>BURNED OUT OF HOUSE AND HOME</h3> + +<p>We now called a council of war of all the Europeans settled here; and it +was unanimously resolved that we should protect and defend our houses and +property, and fortify our position in the best way we could. Captain Duke +had in his possession four twelve-pounders, and these we brought in front +of the enclosure in which our huts were situated, and were all entirely +employed in loading them with round and grape shot, and had made them all +ready for action, when, to our consternation and dismay, we found we had +a new and totally unexpected enemy to contend with. By some accident one +of our houses was in flames. Our situation was now perilous in the +extreme. The buildings, the work of English carpenters, were constructed +of dry rushes and well-seasoned wood, and this was one of a very +respectable size, and we had hoped, in a very few days, would be finished +fit for our removing into.</p> + +<p>For some seconds we stood in mute amazement, not knowing to which point +to direct our energies. As the cry of "fire" was raised, groups of +natives came rushing from all directions upon our devoted settlement, +stripping off their clothes, and yelling in the most discordant pitch of +voice. I entered the house, and brought out one of my trunks, but on +attempting to return a second time I found it filled with naked savages, +tearing everything to pieces, and carrying away whatever they could lay +their hands upon. The fierce raging of the flames, the heat from the +fire, the yells of the men, and the shrill cries of the women, formed, +altogether, a horrible combination; added to all this was the +mortification of seeing all our property carried off in different +directions, without the least possibility of our preventing it. The tribe +of the Ngapuhis (who, when the fire began, were at the other end of the +beach) left their operations in that quarter and poured down upon us to +share in the general plunder. Never shall I forget the countenance of the +chief, as he rushed forward at the head of his destroying crew! He was +called "The Giant," and he was well worthy of the name, being the tallest +and largest man I had ever seen; he had an immense bushy black beard, and +grinned exultingly when he saw the work of destruction proceeding with +such rapidity, and kept shouting loudly to his party to excite them to +carry off all they could.</p> + +<p>A cask containing seventy gallons of rum now caught fire and blew up with +a terrible explosion; and, the wind freshening considerably, huge volumes +of smoke and flame burst out in every direction. Two of our houses were +so completely enveloped that we had given up all hopes of saving them. +The third, which was a beautifully carved tapued one, some little +distance from the others, and which we had converted into a store and +magazine, was now the only object of our solicitude and terror. For, +besides the valuable property of various kinds which were deposited +within it, it contained several barrels of gunpowder! It was in vain we +attempted to warn the frantic natives to retire from the vicinity of this +danger. At length we persuaded about a dozen of the most rational to +listen while we explained to them the cause of our alarm; and they +immediately ascended to the roof, where, with the utmost intrepidity and +coolness, they kept pouring water over the thatch, thus lessening the +probability of an immediate explosion. About this time we noticed the +reappearance of King George, which circumstance rekindled our hopes. He +was armed with a thick stick, which he laid heavily on the backs of such +of his subjects as were running away with our property, thus forcing them +to relinquish their prizes, and to lay them down before his own mansion, +where all was safe. By this means a great deal was recollected. The fire +was now nearly extinguished; but our two really tolerably good houses +were reduced to a heap of smoking ruins, and the greater part of what +belonged to us was taken away by the Ngapuhis.</p> + +<p>This calamity had made us acquainted with another of their barbarous +customs, which is, whenever a misfortune happens to a community, or an +individual, every person, even the friends of his own tribe, fall upon +and strip him of all he has remaining. As an unfortunate fish, when +struck by a harpoon, is instantly surrounded and devoured by his +companions, so in New Zealand, when a chief is killed, his former friends +plunder his widow and children; and they, in revenge, ill-use and even +murder their slaves—thus one misfortune gives birth to various +cruelties. During the fire, our allies proved themselves the most adroit +and active thieves imaginable, though previously to that event we had +never lost an article, although everything we possessed was open to them.</p> + +<p>When we questioned them about our property, they frankly told us where it +was; and, after some difficulty in settling the amount of its ransom, we +got most of our things back again, with the exception of such as had been +carried off by the Ngapuhis.</p> + +<p>Upon the cruelty of this custom I shall make no comments. Probably I +should have remained in ignorance of this savage law, had I not had the +misfortune to become its victim.</p> + +<p>By redeeming from the natives what they had purloined from the fire, we +had restored to us some of our boxes, desks, and clothes; but all our +little comforts towards housekeeping were irretrievably lost. When the +fire was over we received a visit from one of the missionaries, who made +us a cold offer of assistance. We accepted a little tea, sugar and some +few articles of crockery from them; but, although they knew we stood +there houseless, amongst a horde of savages, they never offered us the +shelter of their roofs. I am very sure that had the calamity befallen +them, we should immediately have offered our huts, and shared with them +everything we possessed. Here was an opportunity of practically showing +the "pagans" (as they termed the New Zealanders) the great Christian +doctrine of "doing to others as we would they should do unto us." I must +acknowledge I was sometimes mortified at being obliged to sleep (three of +us huddled up close together) in a small New Zealand hut, filled with +filth and vermin of all kinds, while at only two miles' distance from us +stood a neat village, abounding in every comfort that a bountiful British +public could provide; and we, members of that community, and, indeed, +partly contributors to the funds for its support.</p> + +<p>The high state of excitement into which the savages had been thrown by +the late conflagration gradually subsided, and as we had escaped the +dreaded calamity of our magazine blowing up, we began to look with +calmness on our desolate condition, and draw comfort from thinking how +much worse we might have been circumstanced than we then were. I hope our +distress may prove a benefit to future sojourners in this country, by +showing them the great importance of forming a proper magazine for +powder. The agonies I suffered in contemplating the destruction which six +barrels of powder, each of an hundredweight, would cause amongst a mob of +several hundred naked savages, it is impossible to imagine!</p> + +<p>King George, as well as all his people, were most anxious to build us a +new habitation entirely themselves. They requested us to give them the +dimensions of the various dwellings, and said we should have no further +trouble about them. A party accordingly proceeded to the bush to collect +materials. They first formed the skeleton of a cottage containing three +rooms, with slight sticks, firmly tied together with strips of flax. +While this was in progress, another party was collecting rushes (which +grow plentifully in the neighbourhood, called Ra-poo). These they spread +in the sun for twenty-four hours, when they considered them sufficiently +dry. They then thatched every part of the house, which for neatness and +strength was equal to anything I had ever seen. The doors and windows we +employed our carpenter to make, these being luxuries quite beyond the +comprehension of the natives. We were thus tolerably well lodged again; +and our time passed on tranquilly, almost every day developing some fresh +trait of character amongst these children of nature.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXVI"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXVI</h2> + +<h3>A HOSTILE DEMONSTRATION</h3> + +<p>I went to reside for a short time at a village about half a mile distant, +where there was a pretty good house vacant. It was called Ma-to-we, and +belonged to a chief named Atoi, a relation of George's, but a much +younger man. His power was not so great, and he was every way subject to +the authority of the tribe under whose protection I had placed myself. +One morning, at daybreak, we were roused by the hasty approach of King +George and all his warriors towards Ma-to-we. All were fully equipped for +war, and each countenance looked fierce and wild. Our late misfortunes +having rendered us more than usually anxious, this hostile appearance +gave us considerable alarm. We left our house to inquire the reason +thereof, and saw George and his followers enter the village, pull down +several fences, fire a few muskets in the air, dance a most hideous dance +of defiance, and then depart; but not one word of explanation could we +obtain from him. In the course of the morning, however, the women +acquainted us with the cause of this mysterious proceeding, which +determined me to remove my things back again to George's village of +Kororarika as soon as possible.</p> + +<p>The affair was simply this: Atoi had two wives. During the time of our +visit to his village, he was absent, and had entrusted these women to the +care of his brother; but he, instead of being faithful to the trust +reposed in him, had actually seduced one of them. This circumstance came +to the knowledge of George, and he, feeling for the honour of his absent +friend, immediately proceeded to the village, and thus gave the parties +warning that he was fully aware of the nature of their proceedings. He +had also dispatched a messenger to Atoi, to inform him of his disgrace, +and to request his immediate return. In the course of the day it was +expected he would arrive, and bring with him a strong party of friends, +all burning with revenge, and eager to punish his brother for his +unnatural perfidy. It was thought that unless George interfered, much +bloodshed might ensue; and it may readily be imagined how anxious we were +that this dreaded meeting should be over; yet I (for one) had determined +that I would be a witness of it. Therefore, when word was brought to me +that Atoi was crossing the bay, I hastened down to the beach. There I +found all parties assembled from both villages. George and his followers, +who were to act as mediators, sat immediately in front of the place of +landing; behind them were Atoi's brother and all his partizans; and in +the rear were all the women and children, with about a dozen white faces +scattered amongst them. The scene was picturesque and exceedingly +interesting. It was near the close of a lovely summer's day—the sun, +fast sinking towards the horizon, threw a warm and mellow glow over the +wide expanse of the far-spreading bay, whose smooth waters were only +disturbed by the approaching canoe cutting its foamy way. It was crowded +with naked warriors, urging their rapid course towards the shore; and we +heard the loud and furious song of the chief, animating his friends to +exertion; we saw his frantic gestures, as he stood in the centre of his +canoe, brandishing his weapons. As they came near the place of landing, +George ran into the stream, and as the canoe touched the shore, attacked +Atoi, but in a playful manner, splashing water over him. Thus irritated, +Atoi jumped on land, and, with a double-barrelled musket in his hand, ran +towards his brother, and doubtless would have killed him on the spot, had +he not been prevented. I now saw the advantage of George and his party +being present. He and three of his subjects seized upon Atoi, and tried +to wrest the weapon from his hands, which if they had been able to +effect, a mortal combat could not take place, such being the custom here. +Atoi was a very powerful man of about thirty, and those who attacked him +had a most difficult task; twice he broke from them; and I then watched +the countenance of his brother, which was perfectly cool and collected, +though the firelock was in readiness, and the finger on the trigger, +which might despatch him instantly. All parties sat perfectly quiet +during the desperate struggle; one of the barrels of Atoi's piece went +off, and the contents flew amongst us, without, however, doing any +material injury; and, finally, the musket was wrested out of his hands. +He then sat still for about twenty minutes, to recover his breath, when +he seized a club and rushed upon his brother (for mortal weapons were now +prohibited). The brother started up, armed in the same manner; some heavy +blows passed between them; when, having thrown aside their clubs, they +grappled each other firmly, and a dreadful struggle ensued. As they were +both completely naked, their hair was the only thing to take hold by; but +being long, thick, and strong, it afforded a firm grasp, and they +committed desperate havoc on each other's persons. At this period of the +fight their poor old mother, who was quite blind, came forward to try and +separate the combatants; the sister and younger brothers now followed her +example; and, finally, the fair and frail cause of all this commotion.</p> + +<p>The brothers, having completely exhausted their strength, were easily +separated; and as their friends had carefully removed all weapons out of +their reach, they of course were deprived of the means of injuring each +other. The members of Atoi's family, together with a few friends, now sat +down in a circle, to converse and consult on the affair. Atoi's wife +totally denied the charge, and protested her innocence, and many +circumstances were brought forward to corroborate her statements. The +husband at length was satisfied, and all parties were reconciled.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXVII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXVII</h2> + +<h3>THE LAW OF RETALIATION</h3> + +<p>This affair was scarcely terminated, when we found that another of a +still more serious nature was likely to arise from it and would threaten +the peace of both villages. When King George sent his messenger to inform +Atoi of the infidelity of his wife, the infuriated husband assaulted the +man, and it was rumoured that he had killed him. This was an offence not +to be forgiven, and George was so exasperated by it that he vowed he +would exterminate the whole of Atoi's tribe. A native, however, arrived +with the intelligence that the man was not dead, but only wounded. This +did not seem to allay George's feelings of resentment, and he instantly +made great preparations for war. When our anxiety was wound up to the +utmost, we were greatly astonished to see Atoi and all his friends +approach our settlement, totally unarmed. George went out to meet them, +looking so full of rage that I thought Atoi stood but a slight chance for +his life. After a great deal of violent pantomimic action and grimace, +the apology offered by Atoi was accepted, and the visit was concluded by +a grand war-dance and sham fight performed in their best manner. King +George, in the fulness of his heart at this complete restoration of +friendship, gave a great feast of kumaras and fish, to which we added +some tobacco; and the whole of the party seated themselves by each other +with the utmost sociality—a convincing proof that animosity is not long +an inmate of their breasts.</p> + +<p>I took every opportunity of inquiring into the nature of their laws and +mode of government, and I found that, in general, their method of +redressing wrongs was very summary, and that their ideas of what was +strictly just were, for the most part, simple and equitable. For any +theft, or offence of that sort, committed by one tribe on another, the +parties are called to instant account. If one native takes from another +any part of his possessions, the party injured has a right to retaliate, +and the party retaliated upon must not make the slightest resistance. We +ourselves experienced a proof of this. Some part of our property, which +we supposed had been destroyed by our late fire, we had been told was to +be found in the hut of a neighbouring chief. We one day took advantage of +his absence, searched the hut ourselves, and discovered our things +carefully deposited therein. Thus assured of the fact, we laid our +complaint before King George, who, after hearing our story to the end, +replied, "Well, my friends, you must go to the hut and take away all your +property, and whatever else you may find, which you may think sufficient +payment for the injury you have received." We accordingly proceeded to +the chief's dwelling, whom we found standing at his door. We charged him +with having robbed us, and entered the house to seize our property. He +held down his head, and seemed ashamed and overpowered at this discovery. +He did not attempt to vindicate his conduct, but quietly allowed us not +only to take away all that had belonged to us, but likewise a musket and +double-barrelled gun, which he concluded he had lost for ever. These we +had only taken away temporarily to deter him from theft in future, for a +few days after we brought them back to him, to his infinite delight and +astonishment.</p> + +<p>I was frequently shocked during my residence in this country by the +number of accidents which continually happened to the natives from +gunpowder, and not even the saddest experience could render them more +careful. We were doubtful of the strength of a French fowling-piece we +had, so we loaded it to the muzzle and discharged it, in order to prove +it. Some young chiefs, who saw us do this (approving of this method), as +soon as they returned home loaded a musket in the same manner, and then +discharged it; but not managing the affair as we did—by means of a +string fastened to the trigger—the piece burst, and mangled two of them +dreadfully, and we got greatly blamed for showing them what was +considered so bad an example.</p> + +<p>A few months since a native came from the interior driving a quantity of +pigs to barter for powder; he obtained several pounds' weight, and set +off to return home. On his journey he passed the night in a hut, and for +safety put the bag of powder under his head as a pillow; and as a New +Zealander always sleeps with a fire close to him, the consequence was, in +the course of the night the fire communicated to the powder, and +destroyed the man and the whole of his family, who were journeying with +him.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXVIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXVIII</h2> + +<h3>A WAR EXPEDITION AND A CANNIBAL FEAST</h3> + +<p>Last year a chief, and cousin of King George, named Pomare, was defeated +and killed by the people of the Thames, and George was now resolved to +revenge his death. This determination having become known, we had a +constant succession of visitors, and a considerable number of blows, +scratches, and rubbing noses were the consequence. Our beach presented a +most interesting and busy scene. A dozen superb war canoes were lying +ready to convey the forces; and, considering their limited means, the +solidity of their structure and the carved work on them are surprising. +None but men of rank are allowed to work upon them, and they labour like +slaves. Some canoes were to be lengthened; others patched; others were +condemned to be broken up, and the fragments taken to complete the new +ones. Every morning we were awakened by the sound of the hammer and saw, +and they were much gratified by our walking down to their dockyard to +observe the progress they made, and by giving our opinions of their work. +They thankfully received any hint we gave them as to better methods of +completing or proceeding with their operations. Here were carvers, +painters, caulkers, and sailmakers, all working in their different +departments with great good humour and industry. Some of their vessels +were eighty feet long, and were entirely covered with beautiful +carving. Their form was light and delicate, and if their intentions were +hostile towards us, they would be very formidable alongside any merchant +man. If our Government should determine to colonise any part of New +Zealand, they would find the natives hardy and willing assistants, and +very different from the natives of New South Wales.</p> + +<a name="image-5"><!-- Image 5 --></a> +<center> +<img src="img/img5.jpg" width="600" height="293" alt="Maori War Expedition (With Mission boat accompanying it.)" title="Maori War Expedition (With Mission boat accompanying it.)"> +</center> + +<h5>Maori War Expedition (With Mission boat accompanying it.)</h5> + +<p>As their canoes were ready for launching, they ran them off the beach, +jumped into them, and scudded across the bay with an almost incredible +swiftness. When it is considered that in each canoe were seated eighty +stout young men, each with a large paddle in his hand propelling the +vessel forward, the velocity with which she flew may be imagined! It was +in the midst of scenes like these that we were passing our time, and I +had just become delighted with the appearance of innocence and industry +so continually displayed by these people, when I was called upon to +witness a sight which exhibited their character in its worst light, and +confirmed all my horrible suspicions regarding their alleged cannibalism.</p> + +<p>The New Zealanders have been long charged with cannibalism; but as no +person of importance or celebrity had actually been a witness to the +disgusting act, in pity to our nature such relations have been +universally rejected, and much has been written to prove the +non-existence of so hideous a propensity. It was my lot to behold it in +all its horrors!</p> + +<p>One morning, about eleven o'clock, after I had just returned from a long +walk, Captain Duke informed me he had heard, from very good authority +(though the natives wished it to be kept a profound secret), that in the +adjoining village a female slave, named Matowe, had been put to death, +and that the people were at that very time preparing her flesh for +cooking. At the same time he reminded me of a circumstance which had +taken place the evening before. Atoi had been paying us a visit, and, +when going away, he recognised a girl whom he said was a slave that had +run away from him; he immediately seized hold of her, and gave her in +charge to some of his people. The girl had been employed in carrying wood +for us; Atoi's laying claim to her had caused us no alarm for her life, +and we had thought no more on the subject; but now, to my surprise and +horror, I heard this poor girl was the victim they were preparing for the +oven! Captain Duke and myself were resolved to witness this dreadful +scene. We therefore kept our information as secret as possible, well +knowing that if we had manifested our wishes they would have denied the +whole affair. We set out, taking a circuitous route towards the village, +and, being well acquainted with the road, we came upon them suddenly, and +found them in the midst of their abominable ceremonies.</p> + +<p>On a spot of rising ground, just outside the village, we saw a man +preparing a native oven, which is done in the following simple manner:—A +hole is made in the ground, and hot stones are put within it, and then +all is covered up close. As we approached, we saw evident signs of the +murder which had been perpetrated; bloody mats were strewed around, and a +boy was standing by them actually laughing: he put his finger to his +head, and then pointed towards a bush. I approached the bush, and there +discovered a human head. My feelings of horror may be imagined as I +recognised the features of the unfortunate girl I had seen forced from +our village the preceding evening!</p> + +<p>We ran towards the fire, and there stood a man occupied in a way few +would wish to see. He was preparing the four-quarters of a human body for +a feast; the large bones, having been taken out, were thrown aside, and +the flesh being compressed, he was in the act of forcing it into the +oven. While we stood transfixed by this terrible sight, a large dog, +which lay before the fire, rose up, seized the bloody head, and walked +off with it into the bushes, no doubt to hide it there for another meal! +The man completed his task with the most perfect composure, telling us, +at the same time, that the repast would not be ready for some hours!</p> + +<p>Here stood Captain Duke and myself, both witnesses of a scene which many +travellers have related, and their relations have invariably been treated +with contempt; indeed, the veracity of those who had the temerity to +relate such incredible events has been everywhere questioned. In this +instance it was no warrior's flesh to be eaten; there was no enemy's +blood to drink, in order to infuriate them. They had no revenge to +gratify; no plea could they make of their passions having been roused by +battle, nor the excuse that they eat their enemies to perfect their +triumph. This was an action of unjustifiable cannibalism. Atoi, the +chief, who had given orders for this cruel feast, had only the night +before sold us four pigs for a few pounds of powder; so he had not even +the excuse of want of food. After Captain Duke and myself had consulted +with each other, we walked into the village, determining to charge Atoi +with his brutality.</p> + +<p>Atoi received us in his usual manner; and his handsome, open countenance +could not be imagined to belong to so savage a monster as he had proved +himself to be. I shuddered at beholding the unusual quantity of potatoes +his slaves were preparing to eat with this infernal banquet. We talked +coolly with him on the subject, for, as we could not prevent what had +taken place, we were resolved to learn, if possible, the whole +particulars. Atoi at first tried to make us believe he knew nothing about +it, and that it was only a meal for his slaves; but we had ascertained it +was for himself and his favourite companions. After various endeavours to +conceal the fact, Atoi frankly owned that he was only waiting till the +cooking was completed to partake of it. He added that, knowing the horror +we Europeans held these feasts in, the natives were always most anxious +to conceal them from us, and he was very angry that it had come to our +knowledge; but, as he had acknowledged the fact, he had no objection to +talk about it. He told us that human flesh required a greater number of +hours to cook than any other; that if not done enough it was very tough, +but when sufficiently cooked it was as tender as paper. He held in his +hand a piece of paper, which he tore in illustration of his remark. He +said the flesh then preparing would not be ready till next morning; but +one of his sisters whispered in my ear that her brother was deceiving us, +as they intended feasting at sunset.</p> + +<p>We inquired why and how he had murdered the poor girl. He replied that +running away from him to her own relations was her only crime. He then +took us outside his village, and showed us the post to which she had been +tied, and laughed to think how he had cheated her: "For," said he, "I +told her I only intended to give her a flogging; but I fired, and shot +her through the heart!" My blood ran cold at this relation, and I looked +with feelings of horror at the savage while he related it. Shall I be +credited when I again affirm that he was not only a handsome young man, +but mild and genteel in his demeanour? He was a man we had admitted to +our table, and was a general favourite with us all; and the poor victim +to his bloody cruelty was a pretty girl of about sixteen years of age!</p> + +<p>While listening to this frightful detail, we felt sick almost to +fainting. We left Atoi, and again strolled towards the spot where this +disgusting mess was cooking. Not a native was now near it: a hot, fetid +steam kept occasionally bursting from the smothered mass; and the same +dog we had seen with the head now crept from beneath the bushes, and +sneaked towards the village. To add to the gloominess of the whole, a +large hawk rose heavily from the very spot where the poor victim had been +cut in pieces. My friend and I sat gazing on this melancholy place; it +was a lowering, gusty day, and the moaning of the wind through the +bushes, as it swept round the hill on which we were, seemed in unison +with our feelings.</p> + +<p>After some time spent in contemplating the miserable scene before us, +during which we gave full vent to the most passionate exclamations of +disgust, we determined to spoil this intended feast. This resolution +formed, we rose to execute it. I ran off to our beach, leaving Duke on +guard, and, collecting all the white men I could, I informed them of what +had happened, and asked them if they would assist in destroying the oven +and burying the remains of the girl. They consented, and each having +provided himself with a shovel or a pickaxe, we repaired in a body to +the spot. Atoi and his friends had by some means been informed of our +intention, and they came out to prevent it. He used various threats to +deter us, and seemed highly indignant; but as none of his followers +appeared willing to come to blows, and seemed ashamed that such a +transaction should have been discovered by us, we were permitted by them +to do as we chose. We accordingly dug a tolerably deep grave; then we +resolutely attacked the oven. On removing the earth and leaves, the +shocking spectacle was presented to our view—the four quarters of a +human body half roasted. During our work clouds of steam enveloped us, +and the disgust created by our task was almost overpowering. We collected +all the parts we could recognise; the heart was placed separately, we +supposed, as a savoury morsel for the chief himself. We placed the whole +in the grave, which we filled up as well as we could, and then broke and +scattered the oven.</p> + +<p>By this time the natives from both villages had assembled, and a scene +similar to this was never before witnessed in New Zealand. Six unarmed +men, quite unprotected (for there was not a single vessel in the harbour, +nor had there been for a month), had attacked and destroyed all the +preparations of the natives for what they consider a national feast; and +this was done in the presence of a great body of armed chiefs, who had +assembled to partake of it. After having finished this exploit, and our +passion and disgust had somewhat subsided, I could not help feeling that +we had acted very imprudently in thus tempting the fury of these savages, +and interfering in an affair that certainly was no concern of ours; but +as no harm accrued to any of our party, it plainly shows the influence +"the white men" have already obtained over them; had the offence we +committed been done by any hostile tribe, hundreds of lives would have +been sacrificed.</p> + +<p>The next day our old friend King George paid us a long visit, and we +talked over the affair very calmly. He highly disapproved of our conduct. +"In the first place," said he, "you did a foolish thing, which might have +cost you your lives; and yet did not accomplish your purpose after all, +as you merely succeeded in burying the flesh near the spot on which you +found it. After you went away it was again taken up, and every bit was +eaten"—a fact I afterwards ascertained by examining the grave and +finding it empty. King George further said: "It was an old custom, which +their fathers practised before them; and you had no right to interfere +with their ceremonies. I myself," added he, "have left off eating human +flesh, out of compliment to you white men; but you have no reason to +expect the same compliance from all the other chiefs. What punishment +have you in England for thieves and runaways?" We answered, "After trial, +flogging or hanging." "Then," he replied, "the only difference in our +laws is, you flog and hang, but we shoot and eat."</p> + +<p>After thus reproving us, he became very communicative on the subject of +cannibalism. He said, he recollected the time prior to pigs and potatoes +being introduced into the island (an epoch of great importance to the New +Zealanders), and stated that he was born and reared in an inland +district, and the only food they then had consisted of fern roots and +kumara; fish they never saw, and the only flesh he then partook of was +human. But I will no longer dwell on this humiliating subject. Most +white men who have visited the island have been sceptical on this point; +I myself was before I had "ocular proof." Consequently I availed myself +of the first opportunity to convince myself of the fact. I have reflected +upon the subject, and am thoroughly satisfied that nothing will cure the +natives of this dreadful propensity but the introduction of many +varieties of animals, both wild and tame, and all would be sure to thrive +in so mild and fine a climate.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXIX"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXIX</h2> + +<h3>SLAVERY AMONG THE MAORIS</h3> + +<p>The scene I have just described brings into consideration the subject of +slavery, as it now exists in New Zealand. That slavery should be the +custom of savage nations and cannibals, is not a cause of wonder: they +are the only class of human beings it ought to remain with. Here slavery +assumes its most hideous shape! Every one they can effect a seizure of in +an enemy's country becomes the slave of the captors. Chiefs are never +made prisoners; they either fight to the last, or are killed on the spot, +and their heads are preserved (by a peculiar method) as trophies. +Children are greatly prized: these they bring to their dwellings, and +they remain slaves for life. Upon the number of slaves a chief can muster +he takes his rank as a man of wealth and consequence in society; and the +only chance these wretched beings have of being released from their +miseries, is their master getting into a rage, and murdering them without +further ceremony.</p> + +<p>On entering a village, a stranger instantly discovers which portion of +its inhabitants are the slaves, though both the complexion and the +dresses of all are alike. The free Zealander is a joyous, good-humoured +looking man, full of laughter and vivacity, and is chattering +incessantly; but the slaves have invariably a squalid, dejected look; +they are never seen to smile, and appear literally half starved. The +beauties characteristic of a New Zealander are his teeth and hair; the +latter, in particular, is his pride and study; but the slaves have their +heads half shorn. The male slave is not allowed to marry; and any +intercourse with a female, if discovered, is generally punished by death. +Never was there a body of men so completely cut off from all society as +these poor slaves; they never can count, with certainty, on a single +moment of life, as the savage caprice of their master may instantly +deprive them of it. If, by chance, a slave should belong to a kind and +good master, an accident happening to him, or any of his family, will +probably prove equally fatal to the slave, as some are generally +sacrificed on the death of a chief.</p> + +<p>Thus these poor slaves are deprived of every hope and stimulus by which +all other classes and individuals are animated; no good conduct of theirs +towards their master, no attachment to his person or family, no fidelity +or long service can ensure kind treatment. If the slave effect his escape +to his own part of the country, he is there treated with contempt; and +when he dies (if a natural death), his body is dragged to the outside of +the village, there to be made sport of by the children, or to furnish +food for the dogs! but more frequently his fate is to receive a fatal +blow in a fit of passion, and then be devoured by his brutal master! Even +the female slaves who, if pretty, are frequently taken as wives by their +conquerors, have not a much greater chance of happiness, all being +dependent upon the caprice of their owners.</p> + +<p>When I can relate anything favourable to the missionaries, I invariably +intend to do so, which will account for the introduction of the +following: A few days since, I paid a visit to one of their settlements, +and noticed a remarkably fine native woman attending as a servant. She +was respectably dressed, and in every respect (except complexion) she was +similar to a European. She spoke English fluently. Upon expressing my +admiration of her, I was informed that this woman had been a slave of +Hongi's, and that about a year previous he had lost one of his sons, and +had determined to sacrifice this poor girl as an atonement. She was +actually bound for the purpose, and nothing but the strong interference +of the whole of the missionary society here could have saved her life. +They exerted themselves greatly, and preserved her; and she had proved a +faithful and valuable servant.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXX"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXX</h2> + +<h3>PIRATICAL SEIZURE OF A VESSEL</h3> + +<p>Before finally quitting the subject of slavery, I must give an account of +some white men I saw in this state of degradation, and who belonged to a +chief who visited us some weeks since. In the beginning of 1827, the +Government of New South Wales hired the brig Wellington to convey a +number of prisoners to Norfolk Island, most of whom were felons of the +worst description: the greater part were under sentence of banishment for +life. These desperadoes amounted to seventy-four; by far too many for the +size of the brig, as those whose duty is was to guard them, and the crew +of the vessel, were too few to keep them under subjection. When within a +few days' sail of their destination, they rose on the guard, and, after a +desperate struggle, made themselves masters of the vessel, which was a +very fine one, and was well provided with arms and stores of every kind, +amounting to a sufficiency to carry them to any part of the world they +chose. But the machinations of the wicked rarely prosper, and this was +another proof of the truth of the observation; for, after a stormy and +violent debate among themselves, they at length determined to run for the +Bay of Islands, and if any vessel more eligible was there, they were to +take possession of her, and leave the Wellington behind, she having no +register. It is but justice to them to state that they behaved with +humanity to their captives, and no lives were lost: they appointed +officers amongst themselves, and, with the assistance of the deposed +captain, made this port. On their arrival here, they found two English +whalers, the Sisters, Captain Duke, and the Harriet. The commanders, as +is usual on these occasions, went immediately on board the newcomer. +Captain Duke well knew the vessel, having seen her at Sydney; but, of +course, had no idea of what had happened. The pirates received them with +great civility, and deceived them with a false description of their +voyage—of being bound to a southern port with prisoners; and the two +captains, not having the slightest suspicion of who their hosts really +were, passed a very merry evening with these marauders.</p> + +<p>Soon, however, their bad management of the vessel, their want of +discipline, and the general confusion on board, roused a vague suspicion +in the minds of the two captains that all was not "quite right" on board +the Wellington. The real captain, too, had succeeded in conveying a note +to Duke, informing him of his situation, and claiming his assistance to +recapture the brig, and entreating him to release them all from +captivity.</p> + +<p>This communication produced universal alarm, as both the whalers were +quite unprovided for attack or defence, and all the missionary +settlements lay quite at the mercy of this band of pirates. Had the +latter acted with promptness and spirit, they might easily have made +themselves masters of the whole; but while they were arguing and +hesitating where they would make their first attack, the whalers were +actively employed in getting their great guns out of the hold, and in +preparing their vessels for defence; so that, by the time the pirates +came to the resolution to attack them, the whalers were in a good +posture for resistance, and finally became the assailants. Aided by the +prompt assistance of the natives, the whole of these outlaws were taken +into custody, with the exception of six. The extreme interest the savages +took in capturing these deluded men was truly astonishing. When they were +made to understand that these were King George's (of England) slaves, who +had broken loose, they knew, from their own laws, that they ought to be +taken, and they displayed a great deal of courage and address in +approaching and securing them.</p> + +<p>The pirates (having many passengers and others in their power) stipulated +that they should be landed at Kororarika, unmolested by any of the +English. This was granted; but no sooner were they left by themselves +than a party of natives came forward, seized and bound them, stripped off +their clothes, and, after dressing themselves up in them, conducted their +prisoners on board the whalers; but notwithstanding the anxiety of the +whalers to secure the whole, and the activity of the natives, six of them +found means to elude the search, and here they now are.</p> + +<p>The day on which our houses were burned, these six landed in the train of +one of the chiefs; and I have since entertained a suspicion that it was +their desire of revenge that occasioned the destruction of our property +at the time the calamity happened. I chanced to be in the house alone, +and was amazed by seeing an Englishman enter the hut with his face +tattooed all over. Not being aware he was one of the runaways from the +Wellington, I spoke to him. He slunk into our cooking-house on pretence +of lighting his pipe, and before ten minutes had elapsed, the house was +in flames.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXXI"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXXI</h2> + +<h3>THE CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS</h3> + +<p>The summer was now far advanced, and never, during its progress, had we +been incommoded by any very hot weather. Our house was generally crowded +with visitors: for, as it was the workmanship of King George and his +people, they were prodigiously proud of it, and each seemed to think he +had an undoubted right to sit in it as much as he liked. This, at times, +we felt as a great annoyance; but we were obliged to be very cautious not +to say or do anything that should give offence to them, as all were +exceedingly irritable, and we felt it to be most essential to our comfort +to continue on friendly terms with them.</p> + +<p>Although we were situated in the same latitude as Sydney, we found the +climate of New Zealand infinitely superior. Moderate heats and +beautifully clear skies succeeded each other every day. We were quite +free from those oppressive, feverish heats which invariably prevail in +the middle of the day at Sydney, and from those hot pestilential winds +which are the terror of the inhabitants of New South Wales; nor were we +subject to those long droughts, which are often the ruin of the +Australian farmer. The temperature here was neither too hot nor too cold, +neither too wet nor too dry. Reflecting on this country—its situation, +inhabitants, and climate—I felt convinced that, if it were the object of +our Government to form a new colony, they could not select a more +desirable spot than New Zealand. When we left Sydney, a disease was +raging there of a most disagreeable nature, namely, catarrh. As usual, it +affected strongly the eyes and nose, and generally proved fatal to the +very old and to children. We found the poor natives here subject to the +same complaint, which they called the "Murray," or "Murraybad"; and they +declared they caught it from us Europeans.</p> + +<p>I could scarcely refrain from laughing while witnessing the strange +methods they adopted to effect a cure. Sometimes they would envelope +their heads entirely in green leaves, at other times they would almost +roast themselves in a heated hut; but their universal remedy, and the one +they generally found successful, was starvation, which is, in fact, the +doctor who cures them of all the diseases the Europeans have imported +amongst them: and, I confess, I have often been amazed at their rapid +recovery from maladies which I should have thought incurable. The other +day I asked the opinion of a clever medical man, who came here with one +of the whalers, and he informed me the only cases he had met with amongst +the natives, which terminated fatally, were a few instances of +consumption.</p> + +<p>After the novelty of our savage life began to wear away, I rambled much +about the country, in order to form some judgment of its capability of +improvement. I never possessed any practical knowledge of farming, and +therefore cannot give a scientific opinion or description of the +different soils. In whatever direction I travelled, and at this time I +had crossed the country in various directions several times, the soil +appeared to me to be fat and rich, and also well watered. From every +part of it which the natives have cultivated, the produce has been +immense. Here, where the finest samples of the human race are to be +found, the largest and finest timber grows, and every vegetable (yet +planted) thrives, the introduction of European grasses, fruits, etc., +etc., would be a great desideratum. Were this done, in a very short time +farms would be more eagerly sought after here than they now are in New +South Wales. All the fruits and plants hitherto introduced by the +missionary establishments have succeeded wonderfully. Peaches and water +melons now were in full season; the natives brought baskets full of them +to our door every day, which they exchanged with us for the merest +trifles, such as a fish-hook, or a button.</p> + +<p>Indian corn was likewise very abundant, but as the natives did not +possess any means or knowledge of grinding it, they were not aware of its +full value. Their only method of cooking it was one very disgusting to +Europeans. They soaked the ear in water till it was quite soft and sour, +the smell from which was exceedingly offensive; they then placed it in +their earth ovens to bake, and when they partook of it they seemed to +enjoy it very much.</p> + +<p>In one of my journeys across the island I was accompanied by my Scotch +friend, Mr. Shand, who prided himself very much upon his general +knowledge of agricultural pursuits; and when I indulged in some sudden +bursts of admiration at the beauty of the surrounding prospect, he would +invariably check my enthusiasm, by observing that no animals could +possibly live in a country so overgrown with fern, and where no grass was +indigenous. These observations, often repeated, obliged me to qualify my +admiration of this picturesque and beautiful land; but my surprise, and I +may say my triumph, were complete when, on approaching the missionary +village of Kirikiri, we fell in with a herd of at least a hundred fat +cattle, browsing on the sides of the hill, and having nothing else but +this very fern to eat; and, on inquiry, we found they gave as good milk, +and were in as healthy a condition, as when they grazed on the rich +grasses of Lincolnshire.</p> + +<p>My friend, Captain Duke, made great preparations for the return of his +ships, and purchased many pigs to be salted. The self-denial of the +natives is wonderful: though very fond of animal food, they sell the +whole to us Europeans for the means of war; thus conquering the appetite +for the purpose of possessing arms to make them terrible in the sight of +their enemies. This feeling, properly directed, may lead to their +becoming a great nation. In the course of our saltings and picklings of +pork, owing to the warmth of the weather, a considerable quantity was +spoiled. I recommended its being immediately thrown into the sea, but +Duke, who knew the propensities of the people better than I did, and +wished to ingratiate himself among them, sent for some of his favourites, +and presented them with the damaged meat, with which they marched off +highly delighted, and made a public feast of it in the evening.</p> + +<a name="image-6"><!-- Image 6 --></a> +<center> +<img src="img/img6.jpg" width="600" height="417" alt="New Zealand Method of Tattooing. (From a sketch by A. Earle.)" title="New Zealand Method of Tattooing. (From a sketch by A. Earle.)"> +</center> + +<h5>New Zealand Method of Tattooing. (From a sketch by A. Earle.)</h5> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXXII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXXII</h2> + +<h3>THE ART OF TATTOOING</h3> + +<p>The art of tattooing has been brought to such perfection here, that +whenever we have seen a New Zealander whose skin is thus ornamented, we +have admired him. It is looked upon as answering the same purposes as +clothes. When a chief throws off his mats, he seems as proud of +displaying the beautiful ornaments figured on his skin as a first-rate +exquisite is in exhibiting himself in his last fashionable attire. It is +an essential part of war-like preparations. The whole of this district of +Kororarika was preparing for the approaching war. Their canoes, muskets, +powder and balls, increased daily; and a very ingenious artist, called +Aranghie, arrived to carry on this important branch of his art, which was +soon placed in requisition, for all the mighty men in the neighbourhood +were one by one under his operating hands.</p> + +<p>As this "professor" was a near neighbour of mine, I frequently paid him a +visit in his "studio," and he returned the compliment whenever he had +time to spare. He was considered by his countrymen a perfect master in +the art of tattooing, and men of the highest rank and importance were in +the habit of travelling long journeys in order to put their skins under +his skilful hands. Indeed, so highly were his works esteemed, that I have +seen many of his drawings exhibited even after death. A neighbour of mine +very lately killed a chief who had been tattooed by Aranghie, and, +appreciating the artist's work so highly, he skinned the chieftain's +thighs, and covered his cartouch box with it.</p> + +<p>I was astonished to see with what boldness and precision Aranghie drew +his designs upon the skin, and what beautiful ornaments he produced; no +rule and compasses could be more exact than the lines and circles he +formed. So unrivalled is he in his profession, that a highly-finished +face of a chief from the hands of this artist is as greatly prized in New +Zealand as a head from the hands of Sir Thomas Lawrence is amongst us. It +was most gratifying to behold the respect these savages pay to the fine +arts. This "professor" was merely a <i>kooky</i> or slave, but by skill and +industry he raised himself to an equality with the greatest men of his +country; and as every chief who employed him always made him some +handsome present, he soon became a man of wealth, and was constantly +surrounded by such important personages as Pungho Pungho, Ruky Ruky, Kivy +Kivy, Aranghy Tooker, etc., etc. My friend Shulitea (King George) sent +him every day the choicest things from his own table. Though thus basking +in the full sunshine of court favour, Aranghie, like a true genius, was +not puffed up with pride by his success, for he condescended to come and +take tea with me almost every evening. He was delighted with my drawings, +particularly with a portrait I made of him. He copied so well, and seemed +to enter with such interest into the few lessons of painting I gave him, +that if I were returning from here direct to England, I would certainly +bring him with me, as I look upon him as a great natural genius.</p> + +<a name="image-7"><!-- Image 7 --></a> +<center> +<img src="img/img7.jpg" width="600" height="471" alt="Specimens of Tattooed Faces and Thigh. (From "Expedition de l'Astrolabe.")" title="Specimens of Tattooed Faces and Thigh. (From "Expedition de l'Astrolabe.")"> +</center> + +<h5>Specimens of Tattooed Faces and Thigh. (From "Expedition de l'Astrolabe.")</h5> + +<p>One of the important personages who came to the village to employ the +talent of our artist was a <i>Mr</i>. Rooky Rooky (and he was always very +particular in remembering the <i>Mister</i>); he brought four of his wives +with him, leaving six more at home (polygamy in New Zealand being allowed +to any extent). One of this man's wives was a little girl not more than +ten years of age, and she excited a great deal of interest amongst us, +which, when he discovered, he became very anxious to dispose of her to +any of us. He importuned us incessantly on the subject, saying she was +his slave, and offered her in exchange for a musket.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXXIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXXIII</h2> + +<h3>TRIBAL GOVERNMENT AND RELIGION</h3> + +<p>Though from my increased knowledge of the language, I was enabled to hold +longer conversations, I could not discover that the New Zealanders had +any universal form of government: there appeared to me to be no public +bodies, or any functionaries employed by the people. Each chief seemed to +possess absolute power over his own slaves, and there his authority +terminated. Wealth made him feared by his foes, but gave him no influence +over his friends. All offence offered to any one of a tribe (or clan) is +instantly followed by some act of retaliation by the aggrieved party; and +if one tribe is too weak to contend against the one from whom they have +received the injury, they call in the aid of another. But should the +offence be of a very aggravated nature, and several families be injured +by it, a meeting of the chiefs is called. They assemble in one of their +forts, and, after a discussion, decide either for an amicable adjustment, +or for an exterminating war. Thus these misguided beings are continually +destroying each other for some imaginary insult.</p> + +<p>I became acquainted with a few venerable men of truly noble and +praiseworthy characters, such as would do honour to any age, country, or +religion. They had passed their whole lives in travelling from one +chieftain's residence to another, for the purpose of endeavouring to +explain away insults, to offer apologies, and to strive by every means +in their power to establish peace between those about to plunge their +country into the horrors of war. I have several times met these +benevolent men journeying through the country on these pacific missions; +and twice during my residence here they have been the happy means of +preventing bloodshed. Although the New Zealander is so fond of war, and +possesses such war-like manners, yet are these peacemakers held in the +highest respect, although they do not hold any sacred function—indeed, +no order of priesthood exists amongst the natives. I have never +discovered any symptoms of religion in these people, except it consists +in a great variety of absurd and superstitious ceremonies. Before I +visited this island I used to imagine, from seeing so great a variety of +carved figures which had been brought from this country, that they were +idols, to whom they paid their devotions; but in this I was deceived. +They were merely the grotesque carvings of rude artists, possessing a +lively fancy, and were a proof of their industry as well as genius. Every +chief's house is adorned with an abundance of these carved monsters. One +of their favourite subjects is a lizard taking hold of the top of a man's +head; their tradition being that that was the origin of man. The lizard +is sacred, and never injured by them. Several of their chiefs assured me +they believed in the existence of a great and invisible spirit, called +Atna, who keeps a constant charge and watch over them; and that they are +constantly looking out for tokens of his approbation or displeasure. +There is not a wind that blows but they imagine it bears some message +from him. And there are not wanting crafty men who pretend to a much more +intimate knowledge of his sentiments than the generality, and they easily +work on the minds of the credulous and the ignorant. These imposters +obtain great consideration, and their counsel and advice is most +anxiously sought after by those about to undertake any important +business; but, like ancient astrologers and modern gypsies, they speak +only in ambiguous terms; so that whatever may be the result, their +prediction may still correspond with it.</p> + +<p>Like all rude and ignorant people, the New Zealanders seem more to fear +the wrath of their God than to love his attributes; and constant +sacrifices (too often human ones) are offered up to appease his anger. +They imagine that the just and glorious Deity is ever ready to destroy, +and that His hand is always stretched forth to execute vengeance.</p> + +<p>These sacred, or, more correctly speaking, these "cunning" men and women, +who pretend to see into futurity, and to hold an intercourse with the +Great Spirit, are here (in one way, at least) turned to a good and useful +account. As they themselves are held sacred, everything they wish to have +taken particular care of, they can render sacred also. All the chiefs +find these people of the greatest use in protecting their property, for +they possess the power of tabooing, and when once this ceremony is +performed over any person or thing, no one dares to touch either; and for +a sufficiently good bribe they will impart their sacred power to any +chief, who, by means of this device, thus can protect a field of potatoes +or grain, at fifty miles distance from his settlement, more securely and +effectually than by any fences, or number of persons he might place to +guard it.</p> + +<p>This ceremony of taboo, which is common to the whole of the South Sea +Islands, seems the principal part of their religion, and it is really +difficult to walk without trespassing or infringing on some spot under +this influence. All those who touch a corpse are immediately taboo'd, and +must be fed like an infant, as their own hands must not touch anything +that is put into their mouths. In fact, as we strolled through the +village at the time of their evening repast, it appeared as though some +dreadful disease had suddenly struck the greater part of the inhabitants, +and deprived them of the use of their limbs, most of them being either +fed by their slaves, or lying flat down on the ground, and with their +mouths eating out of their platters or baskets. The canoe that carries a +corpse to the place of its interment is, from that time, taboo'd and laid +up; and if any one by chance touches it, he does so at his peril.</p> + +<p>All those chiefs who were under the operating hands of Aranghie, the +tatooer, were under this law, and all those who worked upon their war +canoes were similarly situated. Unfortunately for me, I one day took away +a handful of chips from their dockyard to make our fire burn clearly. I +was informed they were taboo'd, and upon my pleading ignorance, and +sorrow for the misdemeanour, together with a promise not to renew the +offence, I was pardoned. A poor hen of ours did not escape so well; she, +poor thing, ventured to form a nest, and actually hatched a fine family +of chickens amongst these sacred shavings! Loud was the outcry, and great +the horror she occasioned when she marched forth cackling, with her merry +brood around her. She and "all her little ones" were sacrificed +instantly. What became of their bodies we could never learn; probably the +workmen were not too fastidious to eat them.</p> + +<p>I have observed, since my residence here, one circumstance which proves a +kind feeling in the natives, and shows they are not averse to the +preaching of the missionaries, or the doctrines they inculcate.</p> + +<p>It was the custom of all the Europeans settled here, on the beach at +Kororarika, to refrain from all kinds of work on the Sabbath; to shave, +and dress themselves in their best habiliments; and if any of the +missionaries came over, they went forth to meet them, and hear divine +service. Several of the natives generally assembled and witnessed the +ceremony; and as they observed it came every seventh day, they called it +"the white taboo'd day, when the pakeha (or white men) put on clean +clothes, and leave off work;" and, strange to say, the natives also +abstained from working on that day. Nothing could induce them to the +contrary; not that we wished to persuade them to work, but merely +endeavoured so to do to ascertain the strength of their politeness. Not a +bit of work would they do upon a Sunday, although it was a critical time +with them; for all the chiefs were unprepared with their war canoes for +the approaching expedition. At length we discovered that their cunning +was as conspicuous as their politeness. They had observed we generally +lay longer in bed on a Sunday morning than any other; they accordingly +were up by break of day, and had completed many hours' work before we +made our appearance; but the moment one of us did appear the work was +instantly left off. This degree of outward respect, though craftily +managed, was infinitely more than could be reasonably expected from a +rude and turbulent savage. It is mere respect than we Europeans pay to +any religious ceremony we do not understand. Even their taboo'd grounds +would not be so respected by us, if we were not quite certain they +possessed the power instantly to revenge any affront offered to their +sacred places.</p> + +<p>Of all animals introduced by the Europeans, the most unserviceable, and +indeed injurious, have been the dogs. They have increased rapidly; every +spot was crowded with poor half-starved curs, that were all night long +committing depredations on the poultry, pigs, and goats; and if some +effectual means of diminishing this pernicious breed is not soon resorted +to, the island will be cleared of every other quadruped. Goats were +beginning to increase, and the craggy heights round the bays formed a +favourite retreat for these interesting wanderers. Captain Duke put +himself to great expense and trouble, and effected the importation of +some sheep from Van Diemen's Land; but the dogs soon destroyed them all.</p> + +<h5>THE MASSACRE OF THE FRENCH NAVIGATOR MARION AND PARTY</h5> + +<p>Our friend George generally paid us a visit after the business of the day +was over, and took a cup of tea; wine or grog he detested: so, while he +sipped his beverage, we lit our pipes, and managed, with our slight +knowledge of his language, together with his imperfect English, to keep +up a sort of conversation. Sometimes this was rather wearisome; but +occasionally it became interesting in the extreme. He told us that, when +Captain Cook touched here, he was a little child; but that his mother +(old Turero, who was then with him) remembered his coming well. The +French navigator, Marion, he recollected perfectly, and made one of the +party that murdered him and his people. His observation was, "They were +all brave men; but they were killed and eaten."</p> + +<p>He assured us that the catastrophe was quite unpremeditated. Marion's +entire ignorance of the customs of the New Zealanders occasioned that +distressing event: as I have before observed, that strangers, not +acquainted with their religious prejudices, are likely to commit some +fatal error; and no action is more likely to lead a party into danger +than an incautious use of the seine, for most of the beaches (best suited +for that purpose) are taboo'd. This led to the dreadful fate of Marion +and his party. I understood from George, that when Marion's men assembled +to trail their net on the sacred beach, the natives used every kind of +entreaty and remonstrance to induce them to forbear, but, either from +ignorance or obstinacy, they persisted in their intentions, and drew +their net to land.</p> + +<p>The natives, greatly incensed by this act of impiety, vowed revenge; and +the suspicions of the French not being roused, an opportunity soon +presented itself of taking ample retaliation. The seine being very heavy, +the French required the assistance of the natives in drawing it on shore. +These wily fellows instantly consented to the task, and placed themselves +alternately between each Frenchman, apparently, to equalise the work. +Consequently, in the act of pulling, each native had a white man before +him; and, on an appointed signal, the brains of each European were +knocked out by a tremendous blow of the stone hatchet.</p> + +<p>Captain Marion, who, from his ship, was an eye-witness of these horrid +murders, instantly hastened on shore with the remainder of his crew to +avenge the slaughter of his countrymen. Led on more by ardour than +prudence, he suffered himself to be surrounded; was overpowered by +numbers, defeated, and every one was put to death!</p> + +<p>This account of George's does not, I acknowledge, exactly agree with the +published narrative of that unfortunate event, nor does his age agree +with the dates. Only a few years elapsed between the time of Cook and +Marion, yet he declares himself to have been a child at the death of the +navigator, and a man at the murder of the latter; but as it was voluntary +on his part to give me the above detail, and even if he were not present +himself, he most probably had the facts from one who was, I thought it +worth inserting, as tending to throw light on one of the most melancholy +events which ever took place on these coasts.</p> + +<p>George also related to me the dreadful tragedy of the ship Boyd, and, +horrible as these relations were, I felt a particular interest, almost +amounting to pleasure, in hearing them related by an eye-witness; one who +had been an actor in those bloody scenes which I had before read of: +narratives which from my very childhood had always possessed particular +charms for me; and at this time I was not only looking on the very spot +the hero of my imagination, Cook, had trod, but was hearing the tale from +one who had actually seen him; and was listening to every particular +concerning the transactions of Marion and his men, as though they had +just taken place.</p> + +<p>Even in the dreadful destruction of the Boyd, George laid the blame +entirely on the English, and spoke with great bitterness of the +ill-treatment of Philip, the native chief, who came as passenger in the +ship. He described and mimicked his cleaning shoes and knives; his being +flogged when he refused to do this degrading work; and, finally, his +speech to his countrymen when he came on shore, soliciting their +assistance in capturing the vessel, and revenging his ill-treatment. Over +and over again our friend George, having worked up his passion by a full +recollection of the subject, went through the whole tragedy. The scene +thus portrayed was interesting although horrible. No actor, trained in +the strictest rules of his art, could compete with George's vehemence of +action. The flexibility of his features enabled him to vary the +expression of each passion; and he represented hatred, anger, horror, and +the imploring of mercy so ably that, in short, one would have imagined he +had spent his whole life in practising the art of imitation.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXXIV"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXXIV</h2> + +<h3>THE MAORI VIEW OF CHRISTIANITY</h3> + +<p>I frequently conversed with George upon the subject of religion, and from +what he told me I found that the natives had not formed the slightest +idea of there being a state of future punishment. They refuse to believe +that the good Spirit intends to make them miserable after their decease. +They imagine all the actions of this life are punished here, and that +every one when dead, good or bad, bondsman or free, is assembled on an +island situated near the North Cape, where both the necessaries and +comforts of life will be found in the greatest abundance, and all will +enjoy a state of uninterrupted happiness. A people of their simple +habits, and possessing so little property, have but few temptations to +excesses of any kind, excepting the cruelties practised by them in war, +in which they fancy themselves perfectly justified, and the tyranny +exercised by them over their slaves, whom they look upon as mere +machines. There is, in fact, but little crime among them, for which +reason they cannot imagine any man wicked enough to deserve eternal +punishment. This opinion of theirs we saw an illustration of one Sunday, +when one of the missionaries paid us a visit.</p> + +<p>The ceremony of all assembling to public worship astonished the natives +greatly, though they always behaved with the utmost decorum when admitted +into the house where the ceremony takes place. On the day in question +the minister endeavoured to explain the sacred mysteries of our religion +to a number of the chiefs who were present. They listened attentively to +all he said, and expressed no doubts as to its truth, only remarking that +"as all these wonderful circumstances happened only in the country of the +white men, the great Spirit expected the white men only to believe them." +The missionary then began to expatiate on the torments of hell, at which +some of them seemed horrified, but others said "they were quite sure such +a place could only be made for the white faces, for they had no men half +wicked enough in New Zealand to be sent there;" but when the reverend +gentleman added with vehemence that "all men" would be condemned, the +savages all burst into a loud laugh, declaring "they would have nothing +to do with a God who delighted in such cruelties; and then (as a matter +of right) hoped the missionary would give them each a blanket for having +taken the trouble of listening to him so patiently."</p> + +<p>I cannot forbear censuring the missionaries, inasmuch as they prevent the +natives, by every means in their power, from acquiring the English +language. They make a point of mastering the native tongue as quickly as +possible, and being able to give their whole time and attention to it, +this is easily accomplished. It is of importance that they should do so, +otherwise they could not carry on the duties of the mission; but by thus +engrossing the knowledge, they obtain great influence over the minds of +the natives. We ourselves were sadly puzzled by a correspondence we had +with two native chiefs, who had been taught to read and write by some of +the Society; but their acquirements being in their native language, were +of no possible use. The difficulty of teaching them English would not +have been greater, and then what stores of information and improvement +might not their instructors have laid open to them. </p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXXV"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXXV</h2> + +<h3>THREATENED INVASION BY HONGI</h3> + +<p>We had passed some months here, and were beginning to look out for the +return of our brig, to take us again into civilised society, when we were +once more thrown into alarm by a threatened invasion. A rumour was +circulated in the village that Hongi, who now lay at the point of death, +had declared that he would make one last glorious effort before he +expired. He was resolved (it was reported) to collect his warriors, +overcome George and his followers, possess himself of Kororarika, and die +upon the conquered territory of his enemy; and I had no doubt that in his +moment of delirium such had been his exclamations, as it had always been +one of his favourite projects. When this was reported to George, he +immediately came to us, and with a most doleful countenance told us we +must take care of ourselves; for, if the report proved true, he was much +too weak to protect us. This certainly caused us some alarm, but, +fortunately for us, a good-sized whaler, the Marianne, was then lying at +anchor in the port, having arrived but a few days previously. The +presence of a ship, all over the world, is felt as a protection to +Europeans, as in case of danger it is a sure place of refuge.</p> + +<p>King George sent off his messengers in every direction to inform his +friends and dependants of the threats uttered against him by Hongi, and +the next day eight large war canoes, filled with warriors, came to his +assistance. They landed at some distance from the beach, and, as it was +late in the day, they would not make their public <i>entree</i> till the next +morning; for the New Zealanders are very fond of giving a grand effect to +all their public meetings. I determined to pay them a visit, to witness +the ceremonies of the night bivouack, which proved a most picturesque +scene, and wild and beautiful in the extreme. Their watch fires glanced +upon the dark skins of these finely formed men, and on their bright +weapons. Some groups were dancing; others were lying round a fire, +chanting wild songs, descriptive of former wars; whilst the graver elders +sat in a circle, and discussed the present state of affairs. All were +delighted to see me, and each group offered to share their fire and +provisions with the "white visitor," as they termed me.</p> + +<p>The next morning these auxiliary forces were seen descending the hills to +our village; and, in order to return the compliment, we all went in our +best array to receive them. There were upwards of two hundred athletic, +naked savages, each armed with his firelock, and marching with the utmost +regularity. The chiefs took the lead. The alarm such a sight might have +created was dissipated by the certainty that they came as our protectors. +I even imagined their countenances were not so ferocious as usual but as +they approached near to our party, the usual sham fight began, +accompanied by the war dance, and although I expected it, and indeed had +come for the purpose of witnessing it, it was conducted with so much fury +on both sides, that at length I became quite horrified, and for some +time could not divest myself of the feeling that our visitors were +playing false, so closely did this mock combat resemble a real one. The +dreadful noises, the hideous faces, the screeching of the women, and the +menacing gestures of each party, were so calculated to inspire terror, +that stouter hearts than mine might have felt fear. When the tumult +subsided, the elder chiefs squatted down, and had the long talk usual on +these occasions.</p> + +<p>I was much delighted to recognise among these chiefs one I had known at +Sydney. During his residence in that city I had permitted him to remain +in my house, and the few presents which he had requested on his return to +his own country I had provided him with, and sent him off delighted and +happy, and never expected to behold him again. The moment I approached he +recollected me, jumped up from the "council," ran up to me, hugged me in +his arms, and rubbed noses so forcibly with me that I felt his friendship +for some time, besides being daubed all over most plentifully with red +ochre, which he, being then on a war-like and ceremonious visit, was +smeared with from head to foot.</p> + +<p>When my savage friend (whom we used to call Mr. Tookee) had overcome his +first burst of delight at seeing me, and had literally left off jumping +for joy, he introduced me to his father, Mr. De Frookee, the chief of his +tribe, a very fine specimen of an old New Zealander, who was (I found) +highly respected for his integrity and benevolence. His eyes overflowed +with tears when he heard I was the person who had shown such kindness to +his son at Sydney. I soon felt quite "at home" with the old chief, and +experienced the good effect of having kept my word with this uncultivated +savage. I had, at the time I presented him with the gifts, been much +laughed at by my acquaintances at Sydney for putting myself to such +unnecessary expense; but, from the gratitude he displayed for the +trifling services I had then rendered him, I felt assured he and his +companions would do all in their power to protect me from every danger.</p> + +<p>A long discussion was now carried on, one speaker at a time occupying the +oblong space round which the warriors sat, and the more animated the +debate, the faster ran the speaker to and fro, flourishing his hatchet in +a most dexterous manner. The instant one speaker finishes, another starts +up to answer him; but previous to rising they throw a mat or blanket over +their shoulders, and arrange it most tastefully around them; and, as +their attitudes are all striking and graceful, and a great part of the +figure is left exposed, it forms a study for an artist, well worth his +going many miles to witness, and invariably reminded me of the fine +models of antiquity.</p> + +<p>As a painter, I conceive that this must have been the great secret of the +perfection to which the Greek and Roman sculptors brought their works; as +they constantly contemplated the display of the human form in all its +beauty in their various gymnastic exercises, which enabled them to +transfer to marble such ease and elegance as we, living in an age of +coats and breeches, never shall be able to rival.</p> + +<p>After the important subjects had been settled by the elders, the young +men assembled without their weapons, and began another kind of sham +fight, one grappling with another, till hundreds of them were locked in +each other's arms, and were flung in heaps in every direction. After +they were tired of this pastime, a regular ring was formed, and a +wrestling match began, which was carried on in as regular and fair a +manner as a boxing match in our own country, and as much skill and +cunning were displayed in the art of throwing as the greatest connoisseur +would desire. I was pleased, also, to observe that, whatever happened +(and some most severe throws and blows passed), nothing could disturb +their good humour.</p> + +<p>This party, having remained for seven days on our beach, and not hearing +anything more of our intended invaders, their provisions also becoming +rather scarce, took leave in order to return to their own district, +placing scouts to give them quick intelligence of the movements of the +enemy.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXXVI"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXXVI</h2> + +<h3>ARRIVAL OF A WARSHIP</h3> + +<p>A few days after the departure of this friendly tribe, a "King's ship" of +eighteen guns arrived in the Bay; consequently all our fears of an +immediate invasion were over. No sooner had she cast anchor than our +friend George came to us, expressing the greatest anxiety to visit King +George of England's warship, and requesting we would accompany him, which +we readily agreed to do; and he left us to adorn himself for the +occasion. Soon after he reappeared in great state. A very splendid +war-mat was thrown over his shoulders; his hair was dressed, oiled, and +decorated with feathers, and his person was plentifully covered with red +ochre: he appeared a very fine-looking fellow: his mother, his three +wives, and all his sons and daughters were dressed in equal magnificence, +and accompanied him.</p> + +<p>In this state we went off to visit the vessel; but the moment I came +alongside, I repented my being there, for the rude and churlish manner in +which we were received distressed me considerably. In the first place, an +order was given that none but the chief himself should be allowed to come +on board; consequently his wives and daughters were obliged to remain in +the canoe. The captain spoke only a few words to George, who was allowed +to remain but a few minutes in the cabin; on getting up to take leave, +George took off his fine war-mantle and presented it to the captain; but, +receiving no other covering in return for his gift, he went on shore +naked! The officers of the vessel behaved differently: they conducted us +all down into the gun-room, where they treated us most kindly, and paid +every attention to our friend George, whose dignity was deeply wounded by +the cool and contemptuous behaviour of the captain.</p> + +<p>How greatly is it to be regretted that some arrangements are not made by +our Government at Home, and that there are not orders given to commanders +of ships of war touching here to pay attention to the chiefs, and to make +some trifling presents amongst them; for there never were a people more +anxious to cultivate a friendly intercourse with British subjects than +the inhabitants of New Zealand: and yet there is scarcely a Government +vessel that puts into port here but the natives receive some insult, +though they are sent for the express purpose of supporting the dignity of +the English nation, and to cultivate the amicable feelings of the chiefs.</p> + +<p>When a "King's ship" comes to anchor, the chiefs (with all the glee of +children going to a fair) collect together their wives, children, and +friends, and pay a visit to the "fighting ships," to see King George's +warriors (as they call them): when they come alongside they are kept off +by an armed sentry; and, after a long parley, they are informed the chief +may come, but his family and friends must not. In this case, the natives +generally spit at the vessel, and, uttering execrations on their +inhospitality, return on shore.</p> + +<p>One of the savage chieftains who accompanied us to the vessel in +question, on our way back remarked, "that the white warriors were +<i>afraid</i> of admitting them, though they were unarmed and but a few; while +the warriors in the ships were many, and armed with their great guns."</p> + +<p>Living entirely amongst these people so long as I had done, I felt the +absurdity of such conduct, and the folly of treating them so harshly. If +ever individuals are so situated as to need either the esteem or the +confidence of savages, they must bear with their prying and childish +curiosity, and not be afraid of treating them too kindly; by this means +they become the quietest and gentlest creatures in the world; but, if +treated with contumely, and their wives and families repulsed from your +ship, they become dangerous, vindictive, and cruel neighbours, as many a +dreadful deed which has taken place in this vicinity will fully prove.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXXVII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXXVII</h2> + +<h3>THE WHALERS AND THE MISSIONARIES</h3> + +<p>The South Sea whalers are the ships the natives are the most anxious to +see on their coasts; and it is the crews of those vessels who have, in a +manner, civilised these hardy islanders. Captain Gardiner, of the +Marianne (the vessel now in the harbour), is the oldest person in that +trade; and he informed me, that not longer than twenty years back +scarcely any vessel would dare to touch at New Zealand; and when, from +particular circumstances, they were obliged so to do, they kept their +boarding-nettings up, and kept a strict guard night and day: their fears +arose from a want of knowledge of the disposition of the people. The +vessels frequenting the island use no precautions now: hundreds of +natives are permitted to crowd on board each ship; and no accident has +ever occurred from this mode of treatment. But when a ship of war arrives +here for the first time, the precautions taken are, to arm the row-guard +with cutlasses and pistols, and to harass the crew with constant +watching, while the only enemy that exists is in their own imaginations. +To the courage and enterprise of the commanders of whalers all credit is +due for working the rapid change in these once bloody-minded savages, and +forming safe and commodious harbours for their vessels to refit in: this +have they done in a part of the world lately looked upon with horror. +What credit soever the missionaries may take to themselves, or try to +make their supporters in England believe, every man who has visited this +place, and will speak his mind freely and disinterestedly, must +acknowledge <i>they</i> have had no share in bringing about this change of +character; but, on the contrary, they have done all that in them lay to +injure the reputation of the whaler in the estimation of the natives. +Hitherto they have not succeeded: their want of hospitality and kindness +to their own countrymen raises a strong dislike to them in the minds of +these unsophisticated people. According to their simple notions of right +and wrong, they think the want of hospitality an unpardonable offence, +and that the counsel or advice of a man who shuts his door against his +neighbour is not worthy of being attended to.</p> + +<p>I will give the reader one more anecdote of these men, who are sent out +to set an example of the beauty of the Christian faith to the +unenlightened heathens. A few weeks since, the festival of Christmas took +place; and Englishmen, in whatever part of the world they chance to be, +make a point of assembling together on that day, our recollections then +being associated with "home" and our families, uniting to spend that day +in mutual congratulations and wishes for happiness. For some time +previous to its arrival, the captains of the two whalers and myself had +been deliberating where we should spend this social day; and it was +finally settled that we should cross the bay to Te Puna, a beautiful and +romantic spot, the residence of an intelligent chief, called Warri Pork, +and an Englishman, named Hanson. Near this was a church missionary +establishment; and at this Englishman's house we determined we would +spend the day. The captains of the two whalers then in the harbour +joined our party; and as everyone contributed his share towards our +picnic feast, the joint stock made altogether a respectable appearance.</p> + +<p>We proceeded to Te Puna in two whaleboats: it was a most delightful trip, +the scenery being strikingly beautiful. The village of Ranghe Hue, +belonging to Warri Pork, is situated on the summit of an immense and +abrupt hill: the huts belonging to the savages appeared, in many places, +as though they were overhanging the sea, the height being crowned with a +mighty pah. At the bottom of this hill, and in a beautiful valley, the +cottages of the missionaries are situated, complete pictures of English +comfort, content, and prosperity; they are close to a bright sandy beach: +a beautiful green slope lies in their rear, and a clear and never-failing +stream of water runs by the side of their enclosures. As the boats +approached this lovely spot, I was in an ecstasy of delight: such a happy +mixture of savage and civilised life I had never seen before; and when I +observed the white smoke curling out of the chimneys of my countrymen, I +anticipated the joyful surprise, the hearty welcome, the smiling faces, +and old Christmas compliments that were going to take place, and the +great pleasure it would give our secluded countrymen to meet us, in these +distant regions, at this happy season, and talk of our relatives and +friends in England.</p> + +<p>My romantic notions were soon crushed; our landing gave no pleasure to +these secluded Englishmen: they gave us no welcome; but, as our boats +approached the shore, they walked away to their own dwellings, closed +their gates and doors after them, and gazed at us through their windows; +and during three days that we passed in a hut quite near them, they +never exchanged one word with any of the party. Thus foiled in our hopes +of spending a social day with our compatriots, after our dinner was over +we sent materials for making a bowl of punch up the hill to the chiefs, +and spent the remainder of the day surrounded by generous savages, who +were delighted with our company, and who did everything in their power to +make us comfortable. In the course of the afternoon two of the mission +came up to preach; but the savages were so angry with them for not +showing more kindness to their own countrymen, that none would listen to +them.</p> + +<p>I have visited many of the Roman Catholic missionary establishments; +their priests adopt quite a different line of conduct: they are cheerful +and kind to the savage pagan, and polite and attentive to their European +brethren; they have gained the esteem of those they have been sent to +convert; they have introduced their own language amongst them, which +enables them to have intercourse with strangers; and, however we may +differ in some tenets of religious belief, we must acknowledge the +success of their mission. They have brought nearly the whole of the +Indian population in South America into the bosom of their church; and +their converts form the greater part of the people. Notwithstanding the +numerous church and sectarian missionaries sent from England, I never met +with one Indian converted by them. I have attended mass in an Indian +village; a native priest performed the ceremony, and the whole +congregation (except myself) were of his cast and complexion: and, it is +worthy of remark, that in Peru, and some of the most populous provinces, +a pagan is scarcely to be found.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXXVIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXXVIII</h2> + +<h3>THREATENED WAR</h3> + +<p>We now heard that Tetoro (one of the most powerful chiefs of this part of +the island) had taken offence, and had sent a defiance to King George, +saying he intended coming to seek revenge, accompanied by a strong body +of warriors; and the "herald" who brought this proclamation informed us +that the English settlers were to be attacked and plundered also.</p> + +<p>We had every reason to fear this might prove a more calamitous affair +than any we had yet experienced; as George immediately collected all his +family and dependents, and took his departure for the Kawakawa river (the +residence of De Kookie, the chief who had come to his assistance against +Hongi's attack), leaving behind only a few slaves. Thus a second time +were we left to our own resources on Kororarika Beach. George and his +followers were too much scattered: some were trading with the ships, +others were distributed in various districts, attending to their +agricultural pursuits. Thus separated, each might become an easy prey to +any of the powerful chiefs; but, were they united, they would be too +strong for any of the tribes: unfortunately the hope of gain made them +risk so great a danger. At this period, too, there was not a single +vessel in the bay to protect us. The known partiality of all the tribes +for Europeans was the only consolation we had; and we endeavoured to +cheer each other with this hope, under what in reality might be +considered very appalling circumstances.</p> + +<p>After enduring this state of suspense and anxiety for several days, and +no enemy appearing, we determined to pay a visit to the camp of the +combined army of our friends, which would, at the same time, gratify our +own curiosity, and give them a degree of satisfaction; as it would prove +to them that we were not afraid of venturing amongst them, even in times +of danger. We accordingly prepared the whaleboats to proceed up the +Kawakawa river; and, as I had never been there before, the present +afforded an excellent opportunity for exploring that picturesque spot.</p> + +<p>At the top of the Bay of Islands, two rivers disembogue, the Wye Catte +and the Kawakawa: they are both small but beautiful streams. It was early +in the morning when we started: the dewy mist rose from the unruffled +bosom of the river like the gradual lifting up of a curtain, and, at +length, displayed its lofty sides, covered with immense trees, the +verdure extending to the very edge of the water. All was quiet, +beautiful, and serene; the only sounds which broke the calm were the wild +notes of the tui (or New Zealand blackbird), the splashing of our own +oars, or the occasional flight of a wild duck (or shag), disturbed by our +approach.</p> + +<p>We rowed our boat many miles without seeing the slightest vestige of any +human inhabitants or civilisation: all appeared wild and magnificent as +if just fresh from the hands of nature; and it failed not to lead the +mind up to the contemplation of the Creator. It seemed utterly impossible +to reconcile the idea that such lonely, romantic, and sequestered scenes +could conceal hordes of savage cannibals, or that the tranquility of this +very place would soon be exchanged for the noise and tumult of savage +warfare. We soon reached the village where the coalesced chiefs had taken +up their station: they had fortified their position, and were waiting the +approach of the enemy. No sooner, however, was our arrival known, than +all came running down tumultuously to give us welcome: all business was +laid aside to greet our landing, and we were conducted with great +ceremony into the centre of the camp.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XXXIX"></a><h2>CHAPTER XXXIX</h2> + +<h3>CONSTRUCTION OF A PA</h3> + +<p>We found eight hundred warriors, who (to use a sea phrase) were "all at +quarters." The magic pen of Scott might here have been well employed to +describe "The Gathering." The chiefs sat apart from their followers in +deep consultation: we did not approach near enough to hear their +discussion; but it ended by their paying us a high compliment for coming +amongst them. The young and active were busily employed in constructing a +strong stockade fort to annoy the enemy as he approached; others were +preparing their weapons, or practising the use of arms.</p> + +<p>The village itself was an object of extreme interest; and, after +contemplating the war-like preparations of the chiefs, we turned with +pleasure to gaze on the beauty of the surrounding country. In a plain, +surrounded by high hills, with a beautiful stream of water meandering +through it, was situated a group of huts; and many acres of cultivated +ground, neatly fenced and cleared, encircled them. Their harvest, +consisting of Indian corn, potatoes, and kumara, was now ready for +gathering, and all the women were busily occupied. As I from an eminence +looked down upon their labours, I could almost fancy I was in Italy, and +beheld the peasantry at work in their vineyards: but the adjacent camp +and naked warriors soon dissipated the illusion!</p> + +<p>On approaching the village we occasioned quite a commotion: the girls +brought forth baskets filled with cooked kumaras and peaches, while the +men erected a tent to screen us from the rays of the sun: indeed, all +seemed anxious to do something that should prove acceptable to us. We had +brought with us sufficient provision for a good dinner which was soon +cooked, and we invited them to partake of our fare, and a very merry and +noisy group we formed. After our repast, the chief warriors took us round +their camp, and exhibited to us all their means of defence, and the +different works they had thrown up. Where the use of artillery is +unknown, the principles of fortification are simple, and the New +Zealanders seem to possess a clear notion of the art: necessity being +with them the mother of invention.</p> + +<p>In the direction where the approach of the enemy was expected, they had +erected a strong square stockade, to molest the army; while the women and +children retired to the principal fort, which was very strong, and +situated at the summit of the highest hill: it had a breast-work all +round it about five feet high, and a broad ditch beyond that. The +fortress was large enough to contain several hundred men: it had a +spacious glacis in front, and every approach to it was so completely +exposed, that we thought even a body of regular troops, without +artillery, would have found it very difficult to storm; and to the New +Zealand warrior it seemed a wonderful and impregnable work.</p> + +<p>The chief who had the command of this fort was our old acquaintance Kiney +Kiney, a younger brother of King George's, who seemed proud of this +honour, and appeared highly delighted in showing us round, and +explaining everything to us; even condescending to ask our advice as to +any means of adding strength and security to the works. He listened +attentively to all our observations; and if he approved any alteration we +suggested he ordered it instantly to be carried into effect. I noticed a +thicket too near the fort, and told him I thought it might shelter a body +of men, and before I left the pa it was reduced to a heap of ashes. +Sentinels were posted in every direction to give notice of the approach +of an enemy. <i>Mr.</i> Kiney Kiney (as he was sometimes called) was +splendidly apparelled on this occasion: he had, by some means or other, +become possessed of a light infantry sabre, with all its paraphernalia of +belts and buckles; this was girded round his naked body, which gave him a +very gallant air, and, I have no doubt, was the envy and admiration of +all his followers.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XL"></a><h2>CHAPTER XL</h2> + +<h3>A SHAM FIGHT</h3> + +<p>After we had seen and approved all their preparations, we were treated +with a grand review and sham fight: they divided themselves into two +parties; one half the number took their station on a hill, and lay +concealed; the other party crouched on the plains to receive the attack, +all kneeling on one knee, with their eyes fixed on the spot whence they +expected the rush of their pretended enemies. In a moment, the concealed +party burst forth from their ambush, with a tremendous and simultaneous +shout, and the mock battle began with great fury.</p> + +<p>Nothing in nature can be imagined more horrible than the noise they make +on these occasions. I have heard, under circumstances of some peril, the +North American Indian war-whoop; but that is trifling compared with it +and their countenances are hideous beyond description. My principal +astonishment on these occasions was, that they did not actually kill each +other, or, at least, break each other's bones; for they seemed to strike +with all the fury and vigour of a real engagement; but they kept such +exact time, that at a moment's notice they all left off, and began joking +and laughing, except a very few, whom I observed to sneak away to wash +off some bloody witness, or to put a plaster on their broken skin.</p> + +<p>After these military and gymnastic exhibitions, they formed a grand +assembly, and the chiefs, as usual, made long speeches in rotation. This +rude parliament is one of the most beautiful features in savage +government: all public matters are discussed openly, grievances are +complained of, and justice is summarily administered.</p> + +<p>Thus, after spending a pleasant day, we rose to depart, and took an +affectionate leave of our entertainers, who were most anxious that we +should remain longer; but we thought we had better return to Kororarika, +where our property had been left. Most of the chiefs accompanied us to +our boats, and, after exhibiting various testimonies of their friendly +feeling towards us, they suffered us to depart.</p> + +<p>The day following this visit, we were alarmed by the appearance of two +war canoes crossing the bay: we waited their approach with considerable +anxiety: what few valuables we had with us we concealed about our +persons; but, as they neared our beach, our fears subsided, on finding +there were only a few men in each. Three chiefs (unarmed) landed, whom we +found to be Rivers and two of his near kinsmen, the most dreaded persons +of our expected invaders; but they immediately informed us they came on a +mission of peace, and, for that reason, had come to us unattended and +unarmed.</p> + +<p>We were most happy to hear this, and to find hostilities were again +likely to be deferred. Though we well knew the character of these men, +and that they were capable of the most treacherous acts, and the deepest +dissimulation, yet, their thus throwing themselves into our power, with +the olive branch in their hands, was irresistible; and we received them +with all the pomp we were capable of. We ordered a pig to be killed for +the feast, and requested them to remain for that night. In order to do +honour to our noble guests, and credit to our friend and ally King +George, we produced all the luxuries we had; and, in addition to the +pork, piles of pancakes and molasses were devoured: after this we gave +them tea, of which they are very fond; and, over our pipes, in the +evening, we informed them of the preparations the coalesced chiefs had +made for their reception, had their intentions been hostile.</p> + +<p>The next morning they embarked for the camp at Kawakawa, where, I +understood, they had considerable difficulty in arranging the "treaty of +peace": George having been so often alarmed, now that such great +preparations had been effected (as he well know the treacherous character +of his foe), he was unwilling to give up the hopes of conquest; however, +by the advice of the chiefs, it was finally settled amicably. George and +his friends accordingly returned to Kororarika, leaving a strong party at +the pa to finish the fortifications; and, though peace was made, our +party still kept themselves in a posture of defence.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XLI"></a><h2>CHAPTER XLI</h2> + +<h3>RETURN OF THE BRIG.—AN EXCITING INCIDENT</h3> + +<p>We had been expecting with great anxiety the return of our brig; and, +soon after the termination of this affair, we had the pleasure of seeing +her enter the bay, after her cruise from Tongataboo and Tucopea. We found +that, on leaving the Bay of Islands, she had touched at the Thames, or +(as the natives call it) Hauraki, in order to land two chiefs, whom +Captain Dillon had taken thence two years before, and, in the confusion +occasioned by the disembarking, the visiting and congratulations of +friends (the vessel being under weigh), one chief was left on board, who +had not been discovered till all the canoes were out of sight, and there +remained no other alternative for him than to proceed on the whole +voyage.</p> + +<p>This was of no importance as it respected Tongataboo or Tucopea; but, on +his return to Kororarika, it was not only placing him, but all of us, in +a dreadful dilemma! His tribe being at deadly enmity with that of George, +the moment he was seen on deck (which was as soon as the vessel arrived), +George and all the men in the various canoes appeared to grow outrageous: +nothing would convince them but that we were in league with their +enemies, and had brought this spy into their territories from interested +motives; and they seemed resolved upon boarding the brig and executing +vengeance upon the unfortunate victim. To all our remonstrances George +replied, "Any other man than this I would have pardoned; but it was only +last year he killed, and helped to eat, my own uncle, whose death still +remains unrevenged: I cannot allow him to leave my country alive; if I +did, I should be despised for ever."</p> + +<p>I was greatly grieved at the circumstance; but, as I was somewhat of a +favourite with George, I succeeded in convincing him that it arose purely +from accident, and no intention of giving him offence; and he consented +to leave him on board, but cautioned us not to allow him to land. "If I +see him on shore he dies," he repeated several times. It would have been +well for us had we attended to this warning: we did not; and we +accordingly infringed on the customs of his country; thus placing +ourselves in a most perilous situation with the natives, and plainly +showing that the imprudence of our countrymen is invariably the cause of +quarrels and misunderstandings with these islanders.</p> + +<p>Some days having passed since this altercation with George, we thought no +more about it. The brig, from various causes, was certain to remain some +time in this harbour; and, as our New Zealand guest expressed a great +desire to go on shore one day, we consented to his accompanying us. We +had scarcely entered our house, when we had reason to repent the +imprudent step we had taken: all the natives were in commotion; +messengers were sent off to George to acquaint him with the circumstance, +and soon after we saw him, attended by all his relations, accoutred for +war; that is, quite naked, their skins oiled and painted, and armed with +muskets. Fury was in their looks and gestures as they hastened towards +our residence. We had scarcely time to shut and fasten our door, when +they made a rush to force it; and we had a severe struggle to keep them +out. At one period their rage became so ungovernable that we expected +every instant they would fire on us for preventing their entrance. The +man who was the cause of all this violence crept into our bedroom, and +kept out of sight; but he did not, at any period of the disturbance, +exhibit the least sign of fear, so accustomed are they from childhood to +these deadly frays.</p> + +<p>When the natives found we would not give up the man, but that they must +murder us before they could accomplish their revenge, the disappointment +rendered them nearly frantic. Our situation was most critical and +appalling; and nothing can be a more convincing proof of the influence +the Europeans have obtained over them, than that, at such a moment, they +should have refrained from setting fire to or pulling down the house, and +sacrificing every one of us. George again remonstrated with us, assuring +us it was his sacred duty to destroy this man, now he was in his +territory; a duty which, he said, he owed to the memory of his murdered +relations, and which must be performed, even though he should sacrifice +his "good English friends." He cautioned us not to stand between him and +his enemy, who must die before the sun set, pointing, at the same time, +to that luminary, and ordering his slaves to kindle a large fire to roast +him on. Finally, he and his friends planted themselves all round the +house to prevent the escape of their victim. Thus were we environed with +fifty or sixty well armed and exasperated savages.</p> + +<p>Our imprudence had given us no other alternative than either to give up +the man, who had put himself under our protection, or still to defend him +at the risk of our own lives: we instantly adopted the latter course. +Fortunately for us, a whaler was lying in the harbour, and a party of her +men were then on shore in the neighbourhood procuring water. We had sent +to them to explain the nature of our situation, and we saw them coming to +our assistance, though the numbers of natives at this time assembled +totally precluded all chance of our getting off by force; and a variety +of schemes were suggested as to how we should save the man's life, and +get clear of this difficulty, without sacrificing the good opinion we +were held in by the natives.</p> + +<p>We were well aware of the great importance it was to George to continue +on friendly terms with the English vessels touching here, as they not +only afforded him various sources of considerable profit, but the +intercourse gave him great importance in the eyes of his countrymen; and +we determined to make this circumstance a means of saving the man's life, +as we suspected that a threat of removing the seat of trade would soon +make him compromise his revenge for his interest.</p> + +<p>We therefore sent him a formal message, that, if he was resolved to kill +his enemy in our house, we had determined not to prevent him, but that we +would not stay to witness such a cruelty; and that we should immediately +remove every thing we possessed on board ship, leave the Bay of Islands, +and seek the protection and shelter of some other chief; and, if he +compelled us to do so, no other British ship would ever be seen at +Kororarika.</p> + +<p>We accordingly ordered the ship's boats ashore, and our things were +quickly conveyed into them. I trembled when I looked on the natives, and +saw the rage depicted on their countenances; and I, trusting in +Providence to avert from me the dreadful death with which I saw myself +threatened, prepared myself for some fatal catastrophe. Tumultuous +discussions ensued, and it at length became difficult for the elders to +restrain the impetuosity of the younger chiefs. Fortunately for us, their +vehement speeches soon produced a violent feud amongst themselves. Mutual +upbraidings took place: each accused the other of being the cause of +quarrel, and the consequent loss of the white men. This was precisely the +state of things we wished for; and, while we were waiting the return of +the last boat, a messenger came from the elder chiefs, to propose an +amicable adjustment of the affair. The chiefs promised that, if we would +reland our goods and remain with them, the man we protected should go +without molestation on board the brig; but, if we persevered in leaving +them, the man should be killed before our eyes. This was what we +expected; and though I really now wished to leave them, being quite tired +of these perpetual broils, we assented, in order that the man's life +might be spared When they found we agreed to their proposal, they +retreated out of sight, thereby carefully avoiding polluting their eyes +by looking upon their enemy.</p> + +<p>No sooner had they disappeared than I visited the poor fellow who had +been the cause of all this disturbance: he seemed half dead with anxiety; +but I soon revived him with the information that all was settled +amicably; and we lost no time in getting him off, which we safely +accomplished, though, as the boat which conveyed him left the shore, a +bullet whizzed close by me, aimed, no doubt, by some young fiery chief, +who had concealed himself in the bushes for that purpose.</p> + +<p>During this transaction I witnessed the natural kindness of heart and +disinterested tenderness of the female sex: no matter how distressing the +circumstance or appalling the danger, they are, in all countries, the +last to forsake man. While the enraged chiefs were yelling outside our +house, and all our exertions could scarcely prevent them from making a +forcible entry, all the women were sitting with, and trying to comfort +the unhappy cause of this calamity. They had cooked for him a delicate +dinner, brought him fruit, and were using every means by which they could +keep up his spirits and buoy up his hopes, confidently assuring him the +white men would not yield him up to his ferocious foes. Notwithstanding +all their exertions, he was miserable, till informed by me of his safety; +and I received the warmest thanks, and even blessings, from his "fair" +friends, as if I had conferred upon each a personal favour.</p> + +<p>The man being now in safety, we determined to demand satisfaction for the +affront which had been put upon us, and we sent George word we could not +again receive him into our house unless he made an ample apology for his +behaviour, painting in strong colours how deeply our feelings had been +wounded, and how much this indignity had lowered us in the esteem of all +our acquaintances.</p> + +<p>After some consultation among their leading men upon the subject of our +message, King George presented himself at the door of our hut, and, in +the most humble manner, surrendered his musket; and shortly after his +brother Kiney Kiney did the same. Thus we gained our point, and received +both payment and apologies for their violent behaviour. Friendship being +thus restored, we soon gave them back their muskets, to their infinite +surprise and satisfaction.</p> + +<p>On reflection, I felt quite convinced that the natives liked us the +better for what we had done: it afforded them also a lesson of humanity, +for they all well knew we had no other object in view when we stood +forward to defend the poor fellow, who had relied upon our promise of +protecting him. Several chiefs told us that they greatly admired our +principles, and should always feel themselves quite safe with men like +us, who would risk their own lives rather than break their word, or +desert a friend in the hour of danger.</p> + +<p>At the close of this eventful day we received another token of peace, +which was in its manner simple and affecting, and not such as could have +been expected from a nation of savages. A procession of young girls +approached our door, each bearing a basket: some were filled with nicely +cooked potatoes, others with various fruits and flowers, which they set +down before us, chanting, in a low voice, a song in praise of our recent +exploit; a man bearing a very large fish closed the procession; he +repeated the song also. We were informed that these presents had been +sent by King George as a ratification of friendship, for the New +Zealanders never think a reconciliation perfected till you have again +eaten and drank with them.</p> + +<p>Two important conclusions may be drawn from the termination of this +affair: first, that if a spirited interference takes place on the part of +the Europeans, murder may be at times prevented, as we actually rescued +a mortal foe from the vengeance of an exasperated enemy; and, secondly, +their efforts to restore amity proves their extreme desire to have white +people settle amongst them.</p> + +<p>About a week after this event we witnessed a most extraordinary ceremony, +which partook more of the ludicrous than the horrible, though I have no +doubt it was regarded by the natives as a most solemn affair. For some +days we had been honoured by the presence of a great priest, or one of +their chief tabooers; he came for the purpose of discussing with the +chiefs the affairs of the nation, particularly the approaching war with +the tribe of the Thames; and the day set apart for the discussion of the +principal points was ushered in by a rich feast, not of pork nor fish, +nor even the kumara, but of two old, sturdy, large dogs!</p> + +<p>I was much surprised on rising one morning to see Kiney Kiney, with +several chiefs of the highest rank, stripped, and performing the offices +of the meanest slave (the washing the feet of the pilgrims by cardinals +and persons of rank in Rome came instantly to my remembrance). These +chiefs were making a fire and cooking. I was still more astonished, on +approaching them, to find the nature of the food they were singeing and +scraping. This bow-wow meat they were preparing after the fashion of +pork: pigs being the only quadruped they have ever seen cooked, they of +course are not acquainted with any other way of dressing the animal +creation, and a sad bungling job they made of it; for the dogs were old +and tough, and the hair adhered most pertinaciously to the skin, and in +many places would not come off.</p> + +<p>There were only five persons allowed to partake of this delicious meal, +which was, as well as the five partakers, strictly taboo'd for the whole +of that day: and we strongly recommended them to hold a similar feast +every day, until they had cleared the country of these canine nuisances, +the dogs being the greatest pests they have.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XLII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XLII</h2> + +<h3>WAR-LIKE EXPEDITION TO THE THAMES</h3> + +<p>One morning I was roused out of a sound sleep by continued discharges of +musketry from a number of war canoes. I jumped up instantly in alarm; but +I soon discovered them to be Atoi and his party, who had been absent +about two months on a war-like expedition to the Thames, and they were now +returning successful.</p> + +<p>I had witnessed the departure of this expedition, and considered it in +the light of a reconnoitring party. I could not make out what the real +object was they had been in search of; but, wherever they had been, they +had been victorious, for they now returned with quantities of plunder, +human heads, human flesh, and many prisoners! After the dance and sham +fight had been duly gone through, they proceeded to land their cargo of +spoil. First came a group of miserable creatures, women and children, +torn by violence from their native homes, henceforth to be the slaves of +their conquerors; some were miserably wounded and lacerated, others +looked half-starved, but all seemed wretched and dejected.</p> + +<p>The women of Kororarika, with their usual humanity, instantly surrounded +them, and endeavoured to console them, and then shed abundance of tears +over them. I enquired of one of the warriors what they had done with the +male prisoners: he coolly replied, they had all been eaten, except some +"titbits," which had been packed up in the baskets and brought on shore, +in order to regale particular friends and favourites!</p> + +<p>They had also brought with them several heads, which they have the art of +preparing in their native ovens, so as not to disfigure the countenance +nor injure the figure tatoo'd upon them. One of these, the skull of a +distinguished chief, seemed to afford them amazing delight. Most of our +people had known him well, and several of his near relations were +present: but cruel war seemed to have eradicated every feeling of +humanity; for all appeared to contemplate this ghastly object with great +satisfaction. These heads were decorated profusely with yellow and red +ribbons, and with white feathers: they were then stuck upon short poles, +and placed, with great ceremony, in front of the old Queen Turero's +house; who, sitting at the door, received this token of respect with +approval and condescension.</p> + +<p>The group altogether formed an interesting picture of savage manners, in +which ferocity was strongly blended with humanity, for their respect and +devotion to the old sybil was manifested as feelingly as their hatred +towards those whom they call their enemies: in fact, the young warrior +chiefs presenting to her (as was the case with several) their first +spoils of conquest, reminded me of young lions bringing part of the +spoils of the chase to their aged dam.</p> + +<p>In this affray only a few of Atoi's party had been wounded, and +twenty-five of the enemy had been killed. It was a fortunate circumstance +for the wretched prisoners that none of the conquering party had been +killed; for, if that had been the case, there would have been a dreadful +slaughter of the captives on their arrival at the village, an act of +cruelty never dispensed with. This sight I dreaded I should encounter +when I went to witness the disembarkation; but, hoping that my presence +might be some restraint upon their barbarities, I awaited the result with +as much firmness as I was master of. </p> + +<a name="image-8"><!-- Image 8 --></a> +<center> +<img src="img/img8.jpg" width="600" height="339" alt="Old Pa and Whalers at Bay of Islands." title="Old Pa and Whalers at Bay of Islands."> +</center> + +<h5>Old Pa and Whalers at Bay of Islands.</h5> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XLIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XLIII</h2> + +<h3>VISITS OF WHALERS</h3> + +<p>Two South Sea whalers were at this time lying in the bay: the Anne, from +London, a full ship; and the Lynx, from Sydney. Since I have been living +here, five vessels of this description have visited us; and many others +would have touched here but for the want of proper regulations, and a +dread of the dispositions of the natives. There being here no +representatives of the British Government, the crews of whalers are often +involved in disputes with the natives. This want of Government support +has also frightened other vessels away; their commanders preferring going +on to Port Jackson, where they half ruin themselves by the unavoidable +expenses they incur. Even when their vessels have anchored here, the +thoughtlessness and eccentricity of this class of men, when they are +under no restraint or control, has sometimes not only led to disputes +with the natives, but with each other, which eventually have proved +equally detrimental. In short, New Zealand is a place of such vast +importance to so many lucrative branches of British trade, that it must +be well worthy the speedy attention of our Government at home.</p> + +<p>We spoke frequently to our friend George, as well as to several other of +their powerful chiefs, respecting the erection of a small fort with a +British garrison, and of permanently hoisting the English flag. They +always expressed the utmost delight at the idea; and, from all I have +seen of them, I feel convinced it would prove a most politic measure. +George (who had visited Port Jackson) said: "This country is finer than +Port Jackson; yet the English go and settle there. Our people are much +better than the black natives of New South Wales, and yet you English +live amongst them in preference to us."</p> + +<p>The ship Anne, Captain Gray, was out three years, and during that period +she never entered a civilised port. She had touched twice at this bay, +and had cruised four months on the coast of Japan, off Timor, through the +Sandwich and Friendly Islands, and passed several times over the Pacific +Ocean, in order to obtain a cargo of sperm oil, which she at length +accomplished; and was at this time here to refit for her voyage home to +England round Cape Horn, having picked up most of her cargo off this +port.</p> + +<p>For twelve years past, notwithstanding all the disadvantages, this has +been the favourite resort for ships in the above-mentioned trade. Here, +surrounded with savages and cannibals, they heave down their vessels, +land the cargoes and stores, and carry on work, both on board and on +shore, in tolerable security. The safety of the harbour, the facility of +wooding and watering, the supplies of pigs and potatoes, tempt them to +run the risk of placing themselves in the power of capricious and +barbarous people.</p> + +<p>It has been imagined that the residence of missionaries would have the +effect of civilising the natives, and adding to the safety of ships +touching here; but experience fully proves the fallacy of such an +expectation. These people, abstracted by their own gloomy reflections, +look with contempt on all who are in the pursuit of "worldly wealth"; and +regard the arrival of a whaler as an enemy coming to interfere with the +spiritual interests of "their flock," as they term the inhabitants, +though I never yet saw one proselyte of their converting.</p> + +<p>They never visit a whaler except on a Sunday, and then it is to beg for +the benefit of their society. It cannot, therefore, be expected that much +sympathy can exist between parties, where the cold formality of one +excites the contempt and disgust of the other.</p> + +<p>The ship Anne, of which I have formerly spoken, arrived here lately from +Wahoo, one of the Sandwich Islands, which possesses the advantage of a +British consul. The pacific disposition and orderly government of the +natives do not require a British garrison, or any war-like force; and of +the excellent effects produced by this representation of our Government +Captain Gray speaks with admiration and enthusiasm. The harbours were +crowded with shipping; houses, nay, even streets, were beginning to +appear; the savage character of the people was gradually subsiding into +industrious and peaceful occupations; and comfort and prosperity were +spreading their benign influence over the whole island: yet Wahoo is not +nearly so well situated as a rendezvous for South Sea whalers as New +Zealand; at least so I have been informed by all the captains of those +ships who have conversed with me on the subject.</p> + +<p>It is rather a remarkable and novel circumstance that the natives, who +have been now for fourteen or fifteen years in close intercourse and +carrying on traffic with Europeans, should not, in the course of that +period, understand the nature and value of money; a laughable instance of +which occurred to us a few days since. A native came to our house with a +serious countenance and business-like manner, and said he wished to +purchase a musket: we asked to see what he had brought in exchange for +one, when, with great ceremony, he produced a copper penny piece in the +way of payment. The poor fellow had, doubtless, seen some one pass a +doubloon, and had mistaken his penny for one; as a doubloon is about the +price given for a musket in our regulated list of charges. We, of course, +refrained from laughter; but he was quite astonished and mortified when +he was made to understand we could not trade with him. He took a stroll +round the beach, offering his penny, by way of barter, to every white man +he met, but everywhere with equally bad success.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XLIV"></a><h2>CHAPTER XLIV</h2> + +<h3>VISIT OF TWO SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS</h3> + +<p>When our brig left Tucopea she brought away two natives of that island, +who had most earnestly entreated the captain to take them off, and leave +them upon any other land he pleased, as, according to their statement, +Tucopea was so overstocked with inhabitants that it was scarcely possible +to find subsistence; and the scarcity of food had become so general, that +parents destroyed their children rather than witness their sufferings +from famine. Captain Kent, therefore, from motives of compassion, +received them on board his ship; and, not having touched at any inhabited +spot, brought them with him here. Their extraordinary appearance excited +a great deal of surprise, both among Europeans and New Zealanders. They +appeared simple, timid creatures, though stout and comely, but their hair +was unlike anything I had before beheld, as in length it reached below +the waist, and was so abundantly thick as completely to conceal their +faces. By some curious chemical process which the natives of Tucopea have +discovered, they render their hair a bright sulphur colour; and, as this +mass of yellow hangs over their faces and shoulders, they bear the most +striking resemblance to the lion monkeys of the Brazils.</p> + +<p>These poor creatures, upon landing, shook with fear, and trembled greatly +when they beheld the New Zealanders, whose character for cannibalism had +reached even their remote island: when our friend George went up to them, +and lifted up (in order to examine closely) the curious mass of hair in +which they were enveloped, they burst into a passionate fit of tears, and +ran up to us for protection. The New Zealanders, with characteristic +cunning, perceiving the horror they had created, tormented them still +more cruelly, by making grotesque signs, as if they were about to +commence devouring them; and, at the same time (like most savages), +evincing the most sovereign contempt for them, from their apparent +pusillanimity.</p> + +<p>After they had been some days on shore, we had a very diverting scene +with them, which exhibited strongly the great difference there is in the +nature of the two classes of savages we now had such opportunities of +observing. I had brought my violin from Sydney, on which I used to play +occasionally. The New Zealanders generally expressed the greatest dislike +to it; and my companions used to rally me much on the subject, saying it +was not that the savages did not like music, but it was my discordant +playing that frightened them away, which might be true. It was, however, +a useful discovery for us all, as I often took that method of civilly +driving them out of our house when we grew tired of their company. But +when I began to play before the Tucopeans, the effect it had instantly +upon them was ludicrous in the extreme. They sprang up, and began dancing +most furiously; at the same time, so waving their heads about as to keep +their long hair extended at its fullest length: as I played faster, they +quickened their pace. A lively Scotch reel seemed to render them nearly +frantic; and when I ceased playing, they threw themselves down on the +floor quite exhausted, and unable to articulate a word. I have observed +(generally speaking) that savages are not much affected by music; but +these two Tucopeans were excited to a most extraordinary degree.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XLV"></a><h2>CHAPTER XLV</h2> + +<h3>THE DEATH OF HONGI</h3> + +<p>We at length received authentic intelligence of the death of the +celebrated Hongi. Finding his dissolution fast approaching, he convened a +meeting of all the neighbouring chiefs; and as many as could reach the +spot in time attended. The wounded warrior expired, surrounded by the men +he had so frequently led to battle and conquest. After the numerous and +desperate risks he had run, the many encounters he had sustained with +various enemies, it appeared extraordinary to us Europeans that he should +die quietly in his hut. It is the custom to keep a guarded and mysterious +silence relating to the subjects which are spoken of by a dying chief. I +questioned several who had attended Hongi: all spoke with the greatest +solemnity of his last moments. One sentence (uttered by him) was all I +could obtain after much manoeuvring, and that was spoken but a few +minutes before he breathed his last, which was, that "Shulitea (viz., our +friend George) would not live one week longer than himself"; but, as our +patron was in perfect health at the time, and all seemed peaceful around +him, I only laughed at the improbability of the prophecy being fulfilled.</p> + +<p>The natives of New Zealand pay the greatest respect to courage and +war-like talents: these were the only distinguishing characteristics of +Hongi; yet, by possessing these, he was more feared, and had a greater +number of followers, than any other chief in the island. His hereditary +possessions were but small, and his name was little known; yet his +undaunted courage, his skill, and success in many sanguinary battles, +made him, at length, a most powerful chief, and obtained for him that +which is considered wealth in this country, namely, an immense number of +slaves. In his last moments he was attended by more men of rank than had +ever before assembled to witness the dissolution of a warrior, and this +is considered the greatest proof of attention and respect one chieftain +can show towards another.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XLVI"></a><h2>CHAPTER XLVI</h2> + +<h3>A TRIBAL CONFLICT</h3> + +<p>Our brig now sailed for Hokianga to take in a cargo of planks; and my +friend, Mr. Shand, being tired of wandering, accompanied her; but I, +being still anxious to procure more sketches of this interesting country, +determined to remain as long as possible, and to take one more walk +across the island, and join the brig by the time she was loaded. I was +preparing to start on my last pedestrian tour, when a chain of events +occurred which threw all the tribes into confusion. Bloodshed and +devastation stared me in the face from all quarters; and from the state +of security I had imagined myself to be in, I was roused to behold myself +beset with difficulties; to crown which, our brig, which would have been +a place of safety and refuge, was now on the opposite side of the island.</p> + +<p>Arising from a trifling circumstance, which was partly caused by us, +though innocently, Pomare's only son had lost his life; and, as is usual +among savage tribes, the severest retaliation soon took place.</p> + +<p>By relating the particulars, the reader will perceive how easily the +war-cry is raised among these turbulent savages.</p> + +<p>Pomare's only surviving son. Tiki, was a very finely-formed, handsome +young man, of twenty years of age, and he had made an arrangement with a +captain of a ship here to supply him with a certain number of hogs. +Accordingly, accompanied by a party of his friends, he started into the +interior for the purpose of collecting them. In making his selection, he +not only proceeded to drive off some of his own, but actually laid claim +to, and began marching away with, some belonging to his neighbours. The +right owners remonstrated with him in vain. He, being an insolent, +over-bearing young fellow, persisted in his unjust claims, and set them +all at defiance. They were compelled to yield up their property, as his +tribe was a most powerful one; and Tiki was driving away the stolen hogs +in triumph, when a sudden stop was put to his predatory career. Finding +words were of no avail to induce the young man to restore the swine, one +of the injured party had recourse to a musket. A bullet, aimed from +behind a tree, killed Tiki on the spot; but from whose hand it came could +only be conjectured. The greatest confusion instantly took place. His +companions, being well armed, the war-cry was immediately raised; and the +fray becoming general, seven more lives were lost.</p> + +<p>When the account of this melancholy affair reached our beach, everyone +flew to arms, even all the women, for the young man was a general +favourite. The war-cry spread in every direction. "Here," they exclaimed, +"is the last of the Pomare family killed treacherously, a warrior related +to and connected with every chief of consequence in the country, and a +nephew of the great Shulitea." The cry for blood and revenge was +universal. I must confess that, added to the danger it placed me in, I +was much shocked when I heard of the fate of poor Tiki, for he was one of +our particular friends, and had passed many an evening in our hut. I had +taken leave of him only the day before, when he had set out, full of +health and spirits, on this hog expedition, which had terminated thus +fatally.</p> + +<p>The death of this young man excited the highest indignation in the minds +of his countrymen, as well as in those of his numerous intimate friends +and relations; for a report was industriously circulated that he had +fallen by the hands of a slave. This was considered by his tribe as a +degradation infinitely worse than the murder itself. The offended chiefs +assembled on our beach, with all their followers, armed: and none +appeared more indignant at the transaction than our friend George, who, +with his brother Kiney Kiney, placed themselves at the head of the party, +to revenge the insult which had been offered them.</p> + +<p>The night before they started on this expedition, George spent the +evening with us. He was in particularly low spirits, and said he did not +at all like the business he was going upon: but, as he was the nearest +relation of the deceased, and the eldest of the tribe, he went in hopes +of being able to prevent a great effusion of blood, and also to restrain +the impetuosity of the young men. Little did we then think he would be +the first victim; although his unusual depression of mind brought to my +remembrance the prophecy of Hongi, and, spite of my endeavours to banish +my forebodings, I felt convinced that the prediction would in all +probability be fulfilled.</p> + +<p>Three days had elapsed from the time the avenging party had gone on their +mission, when, at midnight, a messenger, faint and nearly exhausted, +arrived on our beach with the following dreadful intelligence; and that +night no other sounds were heard than those of agony and woe, the yelling +of women, and the shrieks of slaves.</p> + +<p>The substance of the man's information was, that George and the offending +party had met; but, as several days had passed since the murder of their +friend, their feelings were in some degree appeased, and they had +contented themselves with a general plunder of whatever property their +enemies possessed. They had spared their lives, and the outrage was +considered as atoned for. The chiefs were on their return home, laden +with spoil, when, like other coalesced armies, disagreements began to +take place among themselves, and discord long smothered, broke out in +every quarter of the camp.</p> + +<p>George, the principal person of their party, was the one marked to be +dissatisfied with. All were jealous of him, in consequence of his +possessions at Kororarika giving him such a decided advantage over every +other tribe, by his trade and intercourse with Europeans. It is probable, +also, that as the other tribes went forth with an intention to fight, +they were resolved not to be disappointed, and therefore determined to +create a feud among themselves, rather than return home devoid of the +pleasures or the trophies of a combat.</p> + +<p>Some irritating language had been uttered by both sides, when an accident +of a fatal nature took place, which produced an instantaneous and general +appeal to arms. At the close of the day a halt was made, as usual, and +each party began erecting their temporary huts to pass the night in. One +of George's wives, assisted by a little boy, his nephew, was busily +engaged in constructing one; arms and baggage of every description being +strewed about in all directions. At this period a lad took up one of +George's muskets, and began to play with it; but not understanding the +management of it, he, by his injudicious handling, accidentally +discharged the piece, and killed both the wife and nephew, the ball +passing through both their bodies.</p> + +<p>The sensation produced by this unfortunate accident may readily be +conceived. As the woman who was killed was related to the tribe who had +been disputing with George all day, her death furnished an ostensible +motive for open war; and before the real cause of the accident could be +explained, another shot was fired, which wounded a chief of the name of +Moo-de-wy in the thigh. This proved the signal for a general fight: each +party ran to their arms, ranged themselves under their different leaders, +and a general discharge of muskets immediately took place.</p> + +<p>Almost at the beginning of the combat George received a shot, which broke +both his legs: his brother and friends endeavoured to support him in +their arms. It being then nearly dark, added much to the confusion, as it +was difficult to distinguish friend from foe; indeed, so sudden had been +the onset, that many could scarcely have been aware of the cause of the +contest. But our unhappy friend, who seemed particularly marked out in +this unfortunate affray, soon after received another bullet, which struck +him on the throat, and terminated his existence; thus dying before a week +had passed since the death of his rival Hongi. I heard from one of his +friends who supported him in his last moments, that he died like a hero: +finding both his legs were broken, and that consequently he was totally +unable to move, he begged those friends who were about him to leave him +to his fate, and either again enter the fight, or make their escape +while they yet had time. He then gave his musket to one, took off his +mantle to present to another, and while thus in the act of exhorting his +friends and distributing amongst them his tokens of regard, he received +his death-wound, and expired without a groan. When George fell, a general +flight took place; and though the engagement had lasted but a short time, +great numbers had fallen on both sides.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XLVII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XLVII</h2> + +<h3>THE DEATH OF KING GEORGE AND ITS CONSEQUENCES</h3> + +<p>This news caused mourning and lamentation along our beach, and filled all +the Europeans with dismay. We could not calculate the extent of the +injury we might receive, but felt certain we should be considerable +sufferers in some way or other. The light of day seemed to add to, rather +than to diminish, the moans of George's faithful subjects. The violent +sobbings from every dwelling were most dismal. Groups were scattered +about, forming small crying parties, and cutting their skins deeply with +knives and pieces of broken glass; in short, nothing was heard but +yelling and groaning, and nothing was seen but streams of blood!</p> + +<p>But however shocked I might feel by the train of accidents and deaths +which had made such cruel havoc amongst my friends, and notwithstanding +my sincere grief and regret for the fate of poor George, who was a most +humane and intelligent chief, and particularly kind to all the English; +the predicament in which I was now placed demanded all my energies, for I +felt that I stood in a situation of great danger.</p> + +<p>I have before noticed their barbarous custom, on the death of a chief, of +plundering his family and friends. As we had always been considered as a +part of George's family, living under his protection, adopted by him, +and admitted into his tribe, I entertained great suspicions that we also +should be sufferers by the general plunder about to take place: besides, +I was so circumstanced as to be obliged to cross the country with all my +goods, and my route lay through the territories of all those chiefs who +had been fighting against George; and I was at no loss to guess in what +light they would regard me. Depending, too securely, on the general +tranquility, I had not sent my luggage by sea, as I might have done, and +which would have saved me great anxiety, as I should have ventured alone +without fear, but could not manage to carry what I possessed; and to +engage any to convey them was an impossibility, for the moment I made the +proposition to any (even the meanest of the slaves) to accompany me, they +ran off into the bush, nor could any entreaty, presents, or threats +induce them to venture with me; so, for security, I removed all the +property I had, and went with it on board the Marianne, whaler.</p> + +<p>For three days after the death of George, all gave themselves up to +grief; no work was done, and not an individual was to be seen but in an +agony of tears. I began to feel strangely affected with melancholy +myself, when, on the fourth morning, a scene of bustle took place, and +low spirits were banished by tumult, noise, and confusion.</p> + +<p>At six o'clock on that morning we discovered upwards of twenty sail of +war canoes, crowded with armed warriors, coming into the bay. What their +intentions were we could not imagine; but for fear of the worst, the +ships in the harbour shotted their guns, and when the canoes were abreast +of us, we fired a blank one over their heads. On this they all stopped, +and we saw some stir amongst them: at length a very small canoe left the +main body, and pulled directly towards us; it contained the chief persons +of the expedition: they came on board, and assured us they meant no harm +to any persons; they were merely some of the late George's friends, who +were going to pay a visit of condolence to his relations; and, after +making a most hearty breakfast with us, they went on shore, and we +accompanied them.</p> + +<p>Whether the account they gave of themselves was correct, or the reverse, +we knew not at the time; but we felt assured their intentions were not +hostile towards us Europeans, and their quarrels with each other we were +determined not to interfere in. We soon discovered their falsehood, for +George's eldest daughter informed me that amongst the chiefs who landed +with us were several of the most inveterate foes of her father, and that +they were only restrained from committing the most dreadful outrages, and +carrying off all her relations as slaves, by witnessing the many friends +of George by whom they were surrounded. The day was spent in savage +dancing, yelling, making speeches, and debating as to who the proper +person was to succeed George in his dignities: several times I thought +the affair would end in blows. George's relation, Rivers, made great +exertions "to keep the peace," and finally, by force of argument, +succeeded. It was at length unanimously agreed that Kiney Kiney was to +succeed his brother, and that Rivers should take the command until the +time of Kiney Kiney's mourning for the loss of George should be +completed.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XLVIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER XLVIII</h2> + +<h3>DEPARTURE FROM BAY OF ISLANDS</h3> + +<p>After these important matters were amicably disposed of, I made a sign to +Rivers, and, separating him from the crowd, I explained to him the nature +of my situation, and asked his assistance in getting me safely over to +Hokianga. He replied, there would certainly be great danger in attempting +it; but I soon discovered that he magnified the difficulties in order to +increase his demand for payment, for even the greatest chiefs have here +their price. He said (and I had every reason to think he was correct) +that I ran no risk of being molested by any chiefs, like himself, who +would always protect rather than molest every European; but that the +country being in such a state of commotion, in consequence of the late +events, it was full of runaway slaves, who always took advantage of such +times to make their escape; and if I chanced to fall in with any of them, +I should be exposed to great peril: "However (he added), keep up your +spirits; I have two confidential slaves, who shall conduct you over, and +carry your luggage, if you will make me a present of a stocking full of +powder, a bag of small shot, and a powder-horn." He also proposed, as he +himself was going to the Kirikiri, and thence to a village in the +interior, to meet a large assemblage of chiefs, in order to talk over the +late tragical events, that I should journey the first part of my way +with him, in his own canoe.</p> + +<p>Accordingly, after having made preparations for my departure, I took +leave of all my friends at the Bay of Islands, both civilised and savage. +I must say I felt considerable regret when I found myself really going to +take final leave of several native families, with whom I had been on +terms of intimacy since my residence here, from whom I had received many +proofs of personal regard, and whom, I felt convinced, I should never +meet or hear of more; none I regretted parting with more than the family +of poor Shulitea; the mere sight of me seemed to rekindle all their grief +for the loss of their kinsman, and to remind them more forcibly than ever +of his tragical fate. His mother, old Turero, in point of grief, had +rivalled Niobe; she had never ceased weeping and lamenting from the time +she heard of her son's death, and had twice attempted to strangle +herself. But even in the midst of her passionate sorrow, I could scarcely +refrain from laughing, while observing her care and anxiety to get all +she could from me. After deploring the sad fate of her dear son, "You +know," she continued, "you promised him that you would send him a +handsome new musket from Sydney; and now, poor fellow, he is dead; and +cannot shoot with it; but then you must remember that his brother Kiney +Kiney is still alive, and he can shoot with it; and poor George would +wish that his brother should have his new musket." This speech I felt +quite irresistible; therefore, in order to comfort the old queen, I +promised that I would send the musket for her second son; which +declaration seemed to afford her great consolation, and considerably +abated the violence of her grief.</p> + +<p>Just at the dawn of morning we started from the bay in Rivers' canoe, +accompanied by his wife, one child, and the two stout slaves he had +mentioned to me. My luggage, which consisted of one leathern portmanteau +and my bed, was placed in the centre. I had also provided myself with a +small basket of cooked meat, with bread, and a small bottle of brandy, +which was given me by the captain of one of the whalers. The day broke +around us with more than usual brightness; the dewy mists of night were +just rising from the waters, and the huge and abrupt forms of the +mountains were beginning to develop themselves; flights of wild ducks and +stray birds skimmed rapidly by us. The thoughts that crowded my mind were +strange and varied, while contemplating scenes of such tranquil beauty as +were now presented, glowing with the tints of the rising sun. I +contrasted these with the difficulties and dangers I might have to +encounter from hordes of ferocious savages, who, now flushed with +conquest, were plotting murder and destruction against each other: even a +glance at my companions banished all peaceful illusions. While the wife, +son, and slaves were using the paddles with the greatest exertions, +Rivers was carefully examining his weapons. The beauty of the morning and +the romantic scenery was unnoticed: his thoughts were directed solely to +contemplating the depth and the width of my stocking of powder, which +seemed to afford him infinite satisfaction. He had with him a beautiful +double-barrelled gun, and a very good Tower musket; and seeing so many +wild ducks fly past, he drew the bullet out of one of the barrels of the +former, and, with some of my stock of small shot, fired occasionally +amongst them.</p> + +<p>At about eight o'clock a light sea breeze sprang up: they then set their +sail, and all went to sleep, excepting one slave, who was employed to +steer the canoe; so that I had ample time to ruminate upon my solitary +and perilous situation. The tide failed us at twelve o'clock, and we then +went on shore, kindled a fire, and soon collected such a supply of +shell-fish as furnished us a splendid repast. Here we remained till the +flood-tide set in strong, when, again hoisting our sail, we arrived at +the Kirikiri about sunset.</p> + +<p>I here found the missionaries in the greatest consternation and dismay, +and learned that it was one of the chiefs of Hokianga who had shot +George, and they dreaded lest the result of that deed should be that the +whole of the savage tribes on that part of the island would be opposed to +each other; that combats would ensue; and which side soever might be +victorious, it would prove equally injurious to them, as they had +settlements on both sides of the island. But their greatest alarm was +occasioned by their possessions at Hokianga, as the most violent +depredations were there being committed; and as this was the very point +of my destination, the news was not very consolatory to me. "So anxious," +said one of "the brethren" to me, "were we to inform our Christian +brethren of our danger, that we actually gave a <i>warm piece</i> to a native +to carry a letter over to you, although that is strictly contrary to our +orders." I expressed a desire to know what he meant by a <i>warm piece</i>; he +kicked his foot against the stock of a gun I had at the time in my hand; +and, looking at me with an expression of the greatest contempt, said, "It +is what <i>you worldly</i> folks call a musket!"</p> + +<p>They were making considerable preparations to repair to the great meeting +of the chiefs, to which Rivers was journeying. This was a wise and +politic measure for them to pursue; and they were highly delighted to +have such an addition to their party as this well-known chief; and though +they would not acknowledge it, their satisfaction was very visible. I +earnestly requested them to inform me candidly, from all they had heard, +whether they thought I might, with safety, venture across the country; +but I could get nothing from them but vague and mysterious answers: one +thing, however, they made me very clearly understand; which was, that +they neither cared for me nor for my drawings; that their own safety +engrossed all their thoughts; and that a worldly-minded, misguided +creature like me was but as dust in the balance, compared to such godly +people as themselves, who were now placed in jeopardy. They, without +scruple, applied quotations from the Scriptures to themselves, such as, +"Why do the heathen so furiously rage," etc., etc.</p> + +<p>My necessities compelled me to request a favour from them, which was, +that they would allow one of their boys, who could speak English, to +accompany me, as our loads were heavy; and his being known to belong to +their establishment I thought might be some protection; but the short +answer of the monosyllable "<i>No</i>" soon made me repent having asked it. I +spread my bed in one of their empty rooms; and started at daybreak next +morning, with my two native slaves. I could not banish from my +remembrance the inhospitable conduct of these missionaries; they never +even inquired whether I had any provision for a journey they themselves +would not have dared to undertake, which was evident by their giving a +native a <i>warm piece</i> for merely taking a letter for them. As my shoes +were nearly worn out, and I had a long distance to go, over execrable +roads, I had intended asking them for a new pair, as they had abundance +of everything of the kind sent to them from England, to distribute to the +needy (and I fully came under that description of character); but finding +them so selfish and cold-hearted, and meeting with one refusal, I +refrained, and set off, literally almost barefooted.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_XLIX"></a><h2>CHAPTER XLIX</h2> + +<h3>THE JOURNEY TO HOKIANGA</h3> + +<p>We journeyed on all day by a road I had never been before, my attendants +evidently taking by-paths to avoid meeting stragglers or runaways. I was +well laden, having to carry my musket and my basket of provisions; and +each of my men, in addition to the loads I had placed on his shoulders, +bore a basket of potatoes. Once or twice, during our route, we saw some +persons at a distance, and I was sorry to notice the great alarm it +occasioned to my companions, as I now had every reason to apprehend, +that, in case of danger, they would slip off their burdens, make their +escape, and leave me and my baggage to my fate, which the missionaries +had told me they considered a thing very likely to happen. Once we heard +a great firing of muskets, which I afterwards ascertained to be the <i>feu +de joie</i> fired at the first meeting of the chiefs, at their grand +assembling in the neutral village.</p> + +<p>At night, we arrived safe at Patuone's Village, where I had slept on my +first journey across the island; but it now presented a very different +appearance to what it had done then; instead of the tumult I had formerly +heard, all was silence; the numerous families then there, all fully +occupied, were exchanged for a few old surly-looking slaves, and the +huts were all deserted. The inhabitants, in consequence of the rumour of +approaching war, having betaken themselves to one of their fortified pas, +I had no alternative but to pass the night with these suspicious-looking +creatures, who, feeling themselves beyond the control of their cruel +masters, soon gave way to their own vile passions, and became most +impertinent and intrusive—taking every advantage of my loneliness to +indulge their curiosity and familiarity.</p> + +<p>On my arrival, I had deposited my things in one of the empty huts, and +spread my bed, hoping to enjoy the luxury of a few hours' repose after +the fatigue and great anxieties of the day; but these fellows would force +themselves into the hut I had chosen, where they lighted a fire, and sat +chattering around it all the night long. Finding that I did not appear +alarmed at their intrusion or noise, they kept doing everything they +could think of to rouse my fears. They threatened to break open my +portmanteau; and one old wretch sharpened his knife, and made motions as +though he were going to cut my throat and eat me. I knew my only chance +of safety was not to betray any sign of apprehension; so I forced a +laugh, and made them believe I considered their tricks an excellent joke. +I gave them all my tobacco to keep them in good humour; but I passed a +most miserable night, nearly suffocated with smoke, distracted with their +noise, and annoyed by vermin of every description.</p> + +<p>I was most happy when daybreak gave me an excuse for leaving these brutal +savages, and resuming my journey. Every step I took brought before me +proofs of the horrors of war: villages which had been crowded, were now +entirely desolate, and, in many instances, burned to the ground. On that +spot where I had left a party of enterprising Scotchmen busily employed +in sawing timber, with crowds of natives assisting them, all was quiet +and totally deserted, with the exception of a few nearly starved, +wretched-looking dogs, who, hearing someone approach, came out, and tried +to bark at us, but were too weak to utter a sound.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_L"></a><h2>CHAPTER L</h2> + +<h3>EUROPEAN PREPARATIONS FOR DEFENCE</h3> + +<p>Our march along the banks of the river was through a most beautiful +country; but all the inhabitants had fled; their plantations were in a +most luxuriant state; fields which I had left bare and uncultivated were +now covered with Indian corn standing higher than my head, the ripe ears +hanging fantastically in all directions, and none to gather in the +harvest; the crops of kumara and potatoes were equally abundant. I could +not help thinking that, if they expected an invasion of their enemies, +they had left an ample supply of forage for their use. In the evening I +arrived at Horeke, or Deptford Dock-yard (of which I made mention in my +first journey). I here found my countrymen in a state of considerable +embarrassment. The various chiefs of that district had encamped all round +them; so near to them had they taken up their position, that, whatever +might be the result of their battles, the European settlement would be in +danger. The settlers had fortified their place of refuge in the best +manner they could; and all were determined to defend themselves and +property to the last. They had four nine-pounders mounted on a hill, and +a tolerable battery made of three-inch pine stuff.</p> + +<p>Before the English erected their fortifications, there was a great +difference of opinion amongst them as to the propriety and utility of +adopting so strong a measure, and the affair was finally put to the vote, +when the majority proved to be in favour of a strong resistance. I +opposed the measure all I could, for I felt convinced that in the event +of our allies being worsted we all should be involved in one common +massacre; whereas, if no resistance was made, plunder alone would have +been the extent of the injury we should suffer; and even of that taking +place I had strong doubts. However, as my opinion was overruled, I had to +submit, which I did unhesitatingly; and, like a good soldier, I held +myself in readiness in case of an attack.</p> + +<p>The proprietor and manager of the Dock-yard possessed certainly a +"satisfying reason" for striving to defend himself at all hazards. The +vessel I had left here, on my former visit, in frame, was now nearly +completed, and a most beautiful one she was. He told me he would much +rather part with life than see her destroyed; and I confess I could fully +enter into his feelings on the subject; but as I had no such object at +stake, and was not quite enthusiastic enough to fight for a vessel I had +no share in, I felt very much inclined to let the natives war among +themselves without interference; but as we Europeans had agreed to assist +each other, I would not be behind-hand.</p> + +<p>I discharged Rivers' two slaves, and rewarded them liberally for +conducting me with safety through such a wild and perilous country; they +departed (after expressing the heartiest wishes for my reaching my own +home in safety, and thanks for my generosity) to join their master at the +great meeting of the chiefs in the interior. These men, while assisting +me, were performing a great service to their master, by acting as spies. +When we started from the Kirikiri each was armed with a musket; but when +we had accomplished about half the journey, they concealed these in a +hollow tree, under pretence of extreme fatigue. I felt convinced at the +time that was not their real reason for so doing; and afterwards I +learned the true motive. Had they been found armed when returning to +their master (who was hostile to those assembled round the Dock-yard), +they would have been detained; but, by their coming unarmed amongst us, +they were suffered to depart; and I have no doubt the information they +carried back to Rivers was very important. I did not mention to anyone +the hiding of these muskets in the woods, though, according to "The +Articles of War," I ought to have done so, as getting possession of them +would have added two more to our strength, and lessened that of our +enemy; my silence arose from a repugnance I felt to betray these poor +creatures, who had behaved so well to me.</p> + +<p>Although prepared for war, we were very well pleased to find no attack +was made upon us. Indeed, from the first, it had been my decided opinion, +that unless we interfered, and made ourselves by that means obnoxious, +they had too much respect for us, and were too anxious to retain our +kindly feelings towards them, to molest us; at the same time, I felt that +it might be a very politic measure to show them what powerful resistance +we could make, if driven to extremities.</p> + +<p>After passing a week of the greatest anxiety, on account of our expected +invasion, it afforded us the utmost satisfaction to receive a visit from +Mr. Hobbs, the Wesleyan missionary, one of the persons who had visited +the war-camp of the assembled chiefs, who were convened, on the death of +our lamented friend George, to debate and decide upon the momentous +question of peace or war.</p> + +<p>The subject (our informant stated) had been gone into at great length, +and stormy and fierce had been the discussion. Finally, the good sense of +the elder and more experienced chiefs prevailed over the fiercer passions +of the younger, and peace was decided upon. This event forms a new era in +"The Political History of the Few Zealanders," it being the first time so +great an assemblage had met to discuss openly a national question, or in +which they had allowed cool reasoning and good sense to prevail over +their habitual ferocity. As may naturally be supposed, where such various +interests were at stake, this pacific measure was not effected without +considerable opposition from the young and furious chiefs. The +provocations given by them to the elders, whose voices were for peace, +were considerable. They did not confine themselves to abuse, but fired +several muskets during debate, in hopes that one shot out of the many +might prove fatal; which, if it had, and any distinguished chief had been +killed, or even wounded, it would have immediately thrown all into +confusion. Even when pacific measures were decided upon by a very large +majority, and the chiefs were about to separate, a bullet was fired from +the pa, which had evidently been aimed at a chief, a well-known ally of +the late Shulitea, as it fell at his feet, and the earth it threw up fell +upon him. For a few seconds surprise kept all silent; but, as the angry +chief rose up, and was about to address the crowd, his friends eagerly +surrounded him, and hurried him away.</p> + +<p>This was the first instance on record, in which these people had laid a +statement of their private wrongs before a public assembly consisting of +deputies from every part of the island, and abided by the decision of the +majority; and it was the only instance of a chief being killed in battle, +and his decease not having been followed up by the plundering and +destruction of his whole family or tribe.</p> + +<p>This had been a question of peculiar interest to us Europeans, as several +of their great men had fallen in a skirmish (whether an accidental one or +a decided combat made not the slightest difference). We knew their +barbarous custom; and, consequently, we were preparing for scenes of +deadly revenge and insatiable fury to be acted by both parties, and which +must have involved all settled here in destruction. Our feelings may +therefore be imagined, when we were informed that a parliament had been +convened, and all the parties interested were present by invitation, and +took part in the debate. A central spot was fixed on to accommodate the +various chieftains. The causes of the accident were then explained; they +wept and lamented the fallen chiefs, and finally retired satisfied to +their several homes. Surely everyone who is interested in tracing our own +form of government, from the present time up to its first rude outline, +will perceive the similarity of causes and events, and will anticipate +the glorious prospect of beholding a clever, brave, and, I may add, noble +race of men, like the New Zealanders, rescued from barbarism. This +pacific and rational discussion among the chiefs seems, in reality, to +give promise of the germ of a regular reform. Should a few more such +meetings take place, and terminate in the same amicable manner (and I +think it very probable), some clever individual may rise up amongst them, +take the reins in his own hands, and establish something like a regular +form of government.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_LI"></a><h2>CHAPTER LI</h2> + +<h3>OBSERVATIONS ON THE SOCIAL CONDITIONS OF THE MAORIS</h3> + +<p>Feeling that I was not likely now to be called upon to act offensively, I +considered myself at liberty to make numerous excursions round our +fortress, not only to admire this fertile and beautiful country, but to +visit some of my old friends. I was very much astonished and shocked at +seeing several very beautiful young women, whom I left only a few months +back in perfect health and strength, now reduced to mere "living +skeletons," and also to hear of the death of others by consumption. This +disease seems to be the scourge of the young; and when they are once +seized with its symptoms, they are very speedily brought to the grave. +The natives say, "It is Atua, the Great Spirit, coming into them, and +eating up their inside; for the patient can feel those parts gradually go +away, and then they become weaker and weaker till no more is left; after +which the Spirit sends them to the happy island." They never attempt any +means of curing or of alleviating the pains caused by this cruel +complaint; and all those under its influence are tabooed. I procured from +the brig all my remaining stores of tapioca, sago, arrowroot, and sugar, +and distributed them in the best way I could amongst my sick friends. +They were anxious for wine; but that portion of my sea-stock, as well as +spirits, had been long since expended.</p> + +<p>It seems unaccountable that the natives of an atmosphere so dry as this +is—a country in which there are no marshy bogs, and where, though there +is an abundance of water, it is generally seen in clear and sparkling +rills rushing down from the mountains into the rivers—should be subject +to so fatal a disease as galloping consumption. The only cause to which I +can attribute such an affliction is, their indifference to lying out all +night exposed to every change of weather—to cold and rain—which, in +young and tender constitutions, must produce the most pernicious +consequences. If some few are rendered hardy and robust by this process, +many, no doubt, are killed by it. I endeavoured to impress on the minds +of all my female friends the great danger of thus exposing themselves to +cold; but they only laughed at my precautions, and said, "If Atua wished +it, so it must be; they could not strive with the Great Spirit."</p> + +<p>I have heard so much said about the great impropriety of the white +settlers admitting the native females into their society, so much of the +scandalous conduct of captains of ships suffering their men to have +sweethearts during their stay in port, and so much urged in justification +of the indignation shown by the missionaries when this subject is touched +on by them, that I feel it necessary to state one decided benefit which +has resulted from that intercourse, and which, in my opinion, far more +than counterbalances the evil against which there has been raised so loud +an outcry.</p> + +<p>Before our intercourse took place with the New Zealanders, a universal +and unnatural custom existed amongst them, which was that of destroying +most of their female children in infancy, their excuse being that they +were quite as much trouble to rear, and consumed just as much food, as a +male child, and yet, when grown up, they were not fit to go to war as +their boys were. The strength and pride of a chief then consisted in the +number of his sons; while the few females who had been suffered to live +were invariably looked down upon by all with the utmost contempt. They +led a life of misery and degradation. The difference now is most +remarkable. The natives, seeing with what admiration strangers beheld +their fine young women, and what handsome presents were made to them, by +which their families were benefited, feeling also that their influence +was so powerful over the white men, have been latterly as anxious to +cherish and protect their infant girls as they were formerly cruelly bent +on destroying them. Therefore, if one sin has been, to a certain degree, +encouraged, a much greater one has been annihilated. Infanticide, the +former curse of this country, and the cause of its scanty population, a +crime every way calculated to make men bloody-minded and ferocious, and +to stifle every benevolent and tender feeling, has totally disappeared +wherever an intercourse has taken place between the natives and the crews +of European vessels.</p> + +<p>The New Zealand method of "courtship and matrimony" is a most +extraordinary one; so much so, that an observer could never imagine any +affection existed between the parties. A man sees a woman whom he fancies +he should like for a wife; he asks the consent of her father, or, if an +orphan, of her nearest relation, which, if he obtains, he carries his +"intended" off by force, she resisting with all her strength; and, as the +New Zealand girls are generally pretty robust, sometimes a dreadful +struggle takes place; both are soon stripped to the skin, and it is +sometimes the work of hours to remove the fair prize a hundred yards. If +she breaks away, she instantly flies from her antagonist, and he has his +labour to commence again. We may suppose that if the lady feels any wish +to be united to her would-be spouse, she will not make too violent an +opposition; but it sometimes happens that she secures her retreat into +her father's house, and the lover loses all chance of ever obtaining her; +whereas, if he can manage to carry her in triumph into his own, she +immediately, becomes his wife. The women have a decided aversion to +marriage, which can scarcely be wondered at, when we consider how they +are circumstanced. While they remain single, they enjoy all the +privileges of the other sex; they may rove where they please, and bestow +their favours on whom they choose, and are entirely beyond control or +restraint; but when married their freedom is at an end; they become mere +slaves, and sink gradually into domestic drudges to those who have the +power of life and death over them; and whether their conduct be criminal +or exemplary, they are equally likely to receive a blow, in a moment of +passion, of sufficient force to end life and slavery together! There are +many exceptions to this frightful picture; and I saw several old couples, +who had been united in youth, who had always lived in happiness together, +and whose kind and friendly manner towards each other set an example well +worthy of imitation in many English families.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_LII"></a><h2>CHAPTER LII</h2> + +<h3>A MAORI TANGI</h3> + +<p>April 2nd.—This day, perceiving that an unusual number of canoes were +passing up the river, all proceeding towards the village of Par-Finneigh, +we hailed one; and, upon its coming alongside, we inquired what had +occurred, for every appearance of bustle or commotion amongst this +restless and war-like people is truly alarming. They informed us that the +great chief A-Rowa, who died four months since, and the ceremony of whose +"lying in state" I had been permitted by his eldest son to be a witness +of, was this day to be exposed to the view of his friends; was to be +cried over; and was finally to be deposited in the tomb of his ancestors. +As this was one of their imposing spectacles which I had never yet seen, +I was anxious to witness it. We soon got a boat ready, and a party of us +joined the throng, and proceeded with them to the village. Upon our +arrival thither, we found an immense concourse of people assembled; for +here, as in most uncivilised or early states of society, the disposition +and good qualities of the deceased are made known by the number of +friends and followers who meet at his funeral. As these New Zealanders +were all fully equipped in arms, they had more the appearance of a +hostile meeting in an enemy's camp, than of a group of mourners about to +be occupied in the melancholy duty of depositing out of sight for ever +the last remains of a beloved chief.</p> + +<p>Mooetara, the son and successor of the deceased, came to meet us on the +beach, and seemed much gratified by our attention, our appearance on this +solemn occasion giving him importance in the eyes of all the natives then +assembled. He gave orders for our being conducted with much ceremony to +the place of mourning, where, amidst a number of uncouth pieces of +carving (which, we were informed were all tombs reared in honour of the +memory of several former chiefs, and all tabooed), was erected a small +hut, covered in at the top with thatch, but open at the sides. In the +centre of this hut the bones of the deceased chief were exposed to view. +After having undergone the process of decomposition during four months' +exposure to heat, wind, and rain, they had been collected, cleaned, and +decorated with a quantity of fresh white feathers, which rendered the +appearance of the skull still more frightful.</p> + +<p>The women here invariably perform the parts of chief mourners; a group of +them, with the widow of the deceased at their head, kept up a most +mournful cadence, and at every pause in their dismal song slashed their +skins with a piece of shell, till their faces, necks, and arms were +literally streaming down with blood. This mourning and cutting is +completely a matter of business, and is sometimes carried on without +their feeling any real sorrow or sympathy. Parties kept arriving, and +when there was not room for them to thrust themselves round the hut, they +sat down in groups, perfectly unconcerned, employing themselves in +cleaning their firelocks, or playing off upon each other some practical +joke; but the moment a vacant space was presented near the hut, they +deliberately stripped themselves, put on a most sorrowful countenance, +and, seating themselves as near to the ornamented bones as possible, they +immediately began their howling and slashing; no one seemed to like the +idea of being outdone by his neighbour; but when the time allotted to +this ceremony had expired, all instantly jumped up, wiped themselves, put +on their mats, and joined the busy throng. There was, indeed, one real +mourner, who never moved from the bones, nor once lifted up her eyes from +them; she neither howled nor cut herself, and yet she inspired me with +pity and commiseration for her forlorn state. This woman had been the +only wife of the late chief; and I was informed they had lived many years +together, and had a large family; she looked as if she herself was on the +very brink of the grave. The contemplation of the mouldering remains of +her partner through life must have been, even to her savage mind, most +lacerating.</p> + +<p>After witnessing several parties perform their funeral ceremonies, and +imbibing, in some degree, the melancholy tone of mind such a sight must +necessarily create, we arose and joined Mooetara. Here I witnessed a +scene that reminded me of an English country fair. An immense number of +temporary huts had been erected for the accommodation of the chiefs and +their families, where they might repose after their exertions, while +their slaves cooked their provisions, of which an abundant quantity had +been provided, consisting of piles of kumara and Indian corn, with heaps +of fish, which were served out, to all who came for them, with a most +liberal hand, and which, of course, added not a little to the pleasure of +the day. After all had satisfied their hunger (and even the lowest slaves +were permitted, on this occasion, to have as much as they wished for) +they jumped up, flew to their muskets, and commenced their war dance with +great noise and vigour. The violence of their exertions caused their +recent wounds to bleed afresh, and added much to the horror of their +hideous grimaces. They then divided into two parties, and had a sham +battle. I must here do justice to the temperate habits of my savage +friends. During my residence in New Zealand, I have known but very few +who were addicted to drinking, and I scarcely ever saw one of them in a +state of intoxication; and, on this occasion, where a profusion of what +they esteem delicacies was provided gratuitously, they partook so +moderately of the tempting fare as not to be prevented using the most +violent exertions immediately after their meal. The entertainment being +now over, the different parties gathered up what remained of the portions +of food distributed to them, and without taking any leave of their +entertainer, or returning any thanks for his bountiful providing, they +all entered their canoes and paddled away.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_LIII"></a><h2>CHAPTER LIII</h2> + +<h3>CHARACTER OF THE NEW ZEALANDERS</h3> + +<p>An unfortunate prejudice has gone forth into the world against the +natives of New Zealand, which I have always endeavoured to counteract +from a sense of justice, and, from a careful review of those +circumstances which have fallen immediately under my own observation; +this prejudice has long retarded our knowledge of their true character, +but error must gradually give way to truth; and as the circumstances +which first brought the stigma upon their name come to light, and are +investigated and properly explained, I feel confident the conduct of +these islanders will be found superior to that of any other nation in the +South Seas. If we take the whole catalogue of dreadful massacres they +have been charged with, and (setting aside partiality for our own +countrymen) allow them to be carefully examined, it will be found that we +have invariably been the aggressors; and when we have given serious cause +of offence, can we be so irrational as to express astonishment that a +savage should seek revenge? The last massacre was that of "The Boyd's" +crew; every impartial person who reads the account of that melancholy +transaction must acknowledge the unfortunate captain was most to blame. +But that event took place nineteen years back; since which time they know +us better, and respect us more; in proof of which, four years since, The +Mercury brig was taken possession of by a crowd of natives, after they +had endured a series of offences and every kind of ill-treatment; but the +difference in their fate, compared with that of The Boyd's ship's +company, was remarkable, and proved that the savage temper of the natives +was much softened down and humanised, as they merely plundered the +vessel, but made no attempt to murder or molest any of the crew, who, if +they had possessed sufficient courage, would not have sacrificed their +vessel; but, being terrified, they abandoned her, and she was finally +wrecked. During my residence, I never heard of one of the men having been +murdered; and I feel fully convinced no massacres will ever again be +committed in any of the ports in New Zealand where European vessels have +been accustomed to anchor.</p> + +<p>I once saw, with indignation, a chief absolutely knocked overboard from a +whaler's deck by the mate. Twenty years ago so gross an insult would have +cost the lives of every individual on board the vessel, but, at the time +this occurred, it was only made the subject of complaint, and finally +became a cause of just remonstrance with the commander of the whaler. The +natives themselves (and I have heard the opinions of various tribes) have +invariably told me that these things occurred from our want of knowledge +of their laws and customs, which compelled them to seek revenge. "It +was," they said, "no act of treachery on our part; we did not invite you +to our shores for the purpose of plunder and murder: but you came, and +ill-used us; you broke into our tabooed grounds. And did not Atua give +those bad white men into the hands of our fathers?"</p> + +<p>I am confident that a body of Europeans may now reside in perfect +security in any part of these islands. The late plundering of the +missionaries at Whangaroa was a peculiar circumstance, which might have +happened even in civilised Europe, had the seat of war approached so near +their place of residence. If their houses and chapel had been on the +plains of Waterloo during the June of 1815 they would not have +experienced a better fate.</p> + +<p>This recent tumult has brought a circumstance into notice highly +interesting to all who may hereafter wish to settle here. It has hitherto +been their custom, when an accident occurs, such as the sudden death of a +chief, to make a general plunder of everything belonging to the family of +the deceased, and all under their protection. A knowledge of this +horrible custom has deterred many from settling in New Zealand; and even +those who have resolved to run so great a risk have lived in a continued +state of alarm, lest the death of their protecting chief should leave +them at the mercy of a savage enemy.</p> + +<p>The deaths of Hongi and Shulitea placed the missionaries and all the +settlers on Kororarika Beach in considerable jeopardy: but it appeared as +if reason had begun to dawn on the minds of these benighted savages, for +this unjust and cruel custom was now for the first time discontinued. I +was on the beach at the time when an immense party, well armed, came for +the express purpose of satiating their revengeful feelings. I had taken +the precaution of removing what I possessed on board a whaler then lying +in the harbour. The chiefs first sat down to discuss the matter over +amongst themselves, and their deliberations ended in their being +satisfied with destroying the village of Matowe, the one adjoining ours, +and which had been the residence of Pomare's son, whose death was the +cause of all the late turbulent events.</p> + +<p>The great and leading defect in this country, and the principal cause of +their frequent wars and disturbances, which harass and depopulate the +tribes, and puts a stop to all improvement, is the want of some regular +system of government. There are only two classes of people—chiefs and +slaves; and, as consanguinity constitutes a high claim, the eldest son of +a large family, who can bring the greatest number of warriors of his own +name into the field, is considered the chief of that district or tribe; +and as he, by reason of his followers, can take possession of the +greatest number of prisoners or slaves, he becomes the ruling man. Every +other man of his tribe considers himself on an equality with him in +everything, except that he shows him obedience, and follows him to +battle.</p> + +<p>Each is independent in his own family, and holds uncontrolled power of +life and death over every individual it contains. They seem not to +exercise any coercion over the younger branches of a family, who are +allowed unbounded liberty till the girls have sweethearts and the boys +are strong enough to go to war. They are kind and hospitable to +strangers, and are excessively fond of their children. On a journey, it +is more usual to see the father carrying his infant than the mother; and +all the little offices of a nurse are performed by him with the tenderest +care and good humour. In many instances (wherein they differ from most +savage tribes) I have seen the wife treated as an equal and companion. In +fact, when not engaged in war, the New Zealander is quite a domestic, +cheerful, harmless character; but once rouse his anger, or turn him into +ridicule, and his disposition is instantly changed. A being, whose +passions have never been curbed from infancy, and whose only notion of +what he conceives to be his right is to retaliate for an offence with +blood, must naturally form a cruel and vindictive character. Such these +islanders seemed to us on our first visiting them. The sight of beings so +extraordinary (for thus we Europeans must have appeared to them) excited +in their savage minds the greatest wonder; and they thought we were sent +as a scourge and an enemy; and though Cook, one of their earliest +visitors, adopted every method his ingenuity could devise to conciliate +them, yet, as they never could thoroughly understand his intentions, they +were always on the alert to attack him. Hence arose the horror and +disgust expressed formerly at the mere mention of the name of "a New +Zealander."</p> + +<p>I have often tried, in vain, to account for there being such a decided +dissimilarity between the natives of New Holland and New Zealand. So +trifling is the difference in their situation on the globe, and so +<i>similar their climates</i>—both having remained so long unknown to the +great continents, and so devoid of intercourse with the rest of the +world—that one would be led to imagine a great resemblance must be the +result. But the natives of the former seem of the lowest grade—the last +link in the great chain of existence which unites man with the monkey. +Their limbs are long, thin, and flat, with large bony knees and elbows, a +projecting forehead, and pot-belly. The mind, too, seems adapted to this +mean configuration; they have neither energy, enterprise, nor industry; +and their curiosity can scarcely be excited. A few exceptions may be met +with; but these are their general characteristics. While the natives of +the latter island are "cast in beauty's perfect mould;" the children are +so fine and powerfully made, that each might serve as a model for a +statue of "the Infant Hercules;" nothing can exceed the graceful and +athletic forms of the men, or the rounded limbs of their young women. +These possess eyes beautiful and eloquent, and a profusion of long, +silky, curling hair; while the intellects of both sexes seem of a +superior order; all appear eager for improvement, full of energy, and +indefatigably industrious, and possessing amongst themselves several arts +which are totally unknown to their neighbours.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_LIV"></a><h2>CHAPTER LIV</h2> + +<h3>THE SETTLEMENT AND TRADE OF HOKIANGA</h3> + +<p>On April the 14th, our brig being stored with planks, flax, and potatoes, +and ready for sea, I went on board of her. We had fine weather till we +dropped down to the entrance of the river, where we intended taking in +our stock of water for the voyage, when the scene suddenly changed, and a +severe gale came on, right out to sea, which we could not avail ourselves +of; neither could we get the water off, as our rafts of casks got adrift +in the attempt to get them on board. To add to our disasters, one of our +cables parted, and we had to ride out the gale (of two days' continuance) +with one only, the sea rolling heavily right open before us, and we in +momentary expectation of the remaining cable's going; we had not a single +day's allowance of water on board, and at one period all hands (except +the carpenter and passengers) were out of the brig, on shore, filling the +casks. Fortunately for us, the cable proved a tough one; had it parted, +we should have been in a most perilous situation.</p> + +<p>April 20th.—For the last week we were stationary at the river's mouth, +waiting for a fair wind to carry us over the bar; and during that time +there was no appearance of any change; we also heard that vessels had +been detained here for six weeks before they could accomplish it. We +were visited daily by parties of natives, who seemed to rejoice at our +being delayed, as it gave them more of our company than they had +calculated upon. They were more delighted with our society than we were +with theirs; in a small vessel they are a serious nuisance, on account of +the swarms of vermin they bring with them, and which they communicate +liberally to all. Myself and all the passengers on board had our leisure +time fully occupied in dislodging these "little familiars" from their +strongholds in different parts of our apparel.</p> + +<p>During the time we were lying here, I saw and conversed with several +individuals who had attended the "Great Meeting," and their accounts gave +rise to various opinions respecting the policy of supplying the natives +with firearms. As I had always been an advocate for the measure, I was +gratified by hearing that it was thought to be in consequence of each +party's being possessed of a nearly equal quantity of muskets, that a +general and exterminating war was avoided. Some may suppose that similar +tranquility would have been preserved, had they been equally well +supplied with their native weapons of war; but that would not have been +the case. When they found that each party could furnish forth the same +number of European muskets, they paused, well knowing that it was +contrary to the wish of all the white settlers that they should proceed +to hostilities. Indeed, Europeans intrepidly mingled amongst them, urging +them to a reconciliation, and threatening that, if they failed in their +endeavours, the supplies of arms and ammunition should be discontinued. +This threat had its desired effect on the minds of the natives; no blood +was spilt, and each chief returned quietly to his own home.</p> + +<p>On the night we heard of the death of George and his wife, "Revenge and +war" was the universal cry. His party would not believe that it could be +an accident, nor would they hear of any apology being received. At this +time they imagined the tribes of Hokianga were possessed of but very few +firearms; and, as the skirmish took place in that district, it was +determined that an exterminating war should be carried into the heart of +it. However, before all the preparations could be made to carry their +intentions into effect, they received certain information that the people +of Hokianga were even better supplied with muskets than those of the Bay +of Islands. This intelligence occasioned an assemblage of the different +tribes to be proposed, and when it took place the friends of George saw +their opponents so well prepared for the "tug of war" that they deemed it +judicious to come forward and to shake hands and to acknowledge that the +death of Shulitea proceeded either from accident or mistake. A curious +circumstance took place in the midst of their debate. An old chief, who +wished for a fight, and did not approve of the introduction of firearms, +but was an advocate for the old method of New Zealand warfare, proposed +that each party should send away <i>all</i> their muskets and ammunition, and +engage manfully with their own native weapons, and then it could be +easily proved which were the "best men;" but this mode of settling the +dispute, not being agreeable to the majority, was instantly negatived, +and treated with disdain.</p> + +<p>The colony of Scotch carpenters, who had formed a settlement at the head +of the river, and of whom I made "honourable mention" on my first +journey, finding themselves so close to what they feared might become +the seat of war, and having no means whatever of defending themselves, +made an arrangement with Mooetara, the chief of Parkunugh (which is +situated at the entrance of the same river), and placed themselves under +his protection. They accordingly moved down here, which gave great +satisfaction to that chief. Neither could their former protector, +Patuone, feel offended at their removal, from the peculiar nature of the +circumstances they were placed in. These hardy North Britons were +delighted to find a reasonable excuse for moving, their former +establishment being situated too far from the sea for them to reap any +advantage from ships coming into port. Nothing can be more gratifying +than to behold the great anxiety of the natives to induce Englishmen to +settle amongst them; it ensures their safety; and no one act of treachery +is on record of their having practised towards those whom they had +invited to reside with them.</p> + +<p>Mooetara is a man of great property and high rank, and is considered a +very proud chief by the natives; yet he is to be seen every day working +as hard as any slave in assisting in the erection of houses for the +accommodation of his new settlers. He has actually removed from his old +village of Parkunugh (a strong and beautiful place), and is erecting huts +for his tribe near the spot chosen by his new friends; so that, in a very +short time, a barren point of land, hitherto without a vestige of a human +habitation, will become a thriving and populous village, for it is +incredible how quickly the orders of these chiefs are carried into +effect. I was frequently a witness to the short space of time they took +to erect their houses; and, though small, they are tight, weather-proof, +and warm: their storehouses are put together in the most substantial and +workmanlike manner.</p> + +<p>It is very difficult to make the New Zealanders explain the nature of +their religious belief. One superstition seems general with all the +tribes respecting the formation of the world, or, rather, of their own +island, for that is the place of the first importance in their +estimation. They say a man, or a god, or some great spirit, was fishing +in his war-canoe, and pulled up a large fish, which instantly turned into +an island; and a lizard came upon that, and brought up a man out of the +water by his long hair; and he was the father of all the New Zealanders. +Almost all their grotesque carvings are illustrations of this idea in +some way or other. The favourite theme on which (I observed) the +missionaries discoursed to them were "the torments of hell." This has +become a subject of ridicule to most of the natives; they do not deny +that there may be such a place, but they add, it is not for them, for if +Atua had intended it so he would have sent them word about it long before +he sent the white men into their country; and they conclude by stating +that they know perfectly well the situation of the island where they are +to go to after this life.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_LV"></a><h2>CHAPTER LV</h2> + +<h3>MASSACRE OF A SCHOONER'S CREW</h3> + +<p>While remaining here wind-bound, in imaginary security, and amusing +ourselves with noticing the curious customs and peculiarities of these +islanders, a dreadful tragedy was taking place only a few miles' distance +from us, and to which I before alluded, when I mentioned crossing the bar +on our first arrival from Port Jackson. The Enterprise schooner, a very +fine vessel, which was built at the settlement on this river, had been +sent to Sydney, and while we were lying there we were in hourly +expectation of her return. She did return. The unfavourable weather which +detained us so long proved fatal to her, and she was wrecked a few miles +to the northward of the river's mouth, and every soul on board perished.</p> + +<p>The moment this catastrophe was known every European hastened to the +spot, and, with feelings of horror, perceived but too plainly, from the +appearance of the wreck and the boat, and by finding also the clothes of +the crew, that they had reached the shore in safety, and had afterwards +all been murdered; but how, or by whom, it was impossible to discover. +The most probable conclusion was that the tribes situated around the +European dockyard at Hokianga, having meditated for some time past a +great war-like expedition, waited the return of this schooner from Sydney +to possess themselves of an additional supply of arms and ammunition, +which might enable them to take the field with a certainty of conquest. +They had regularly purchased the cargo of this vessel by their labour +and their merchandise, and the schooner was merely employed to convey it +thither from Sydney, for the use of the natives; unhappily for the poor +creatures on board, in running for the mouth of the river, she fell to +leeward, and got stranded on the beach, in the very territory of that +tribe against whom these preparations were made—the tribe intended to be +invaded. Though no formal declaration of war had taken place, the tribes +well knew the preparations that were making against them, and the nature +of the cargo contained in The Enterprise; falling into the hands of such +fierce and vindictive savages, the fate of the crew may be imagined—all +our poor fellows were sacrificed to gratify their feelings of revenge.</p> + +<p>Mooetara (the friendly chief of Hokianga) no sooner heard of the fate of +the vessel and her crew than he hastened with his party to the spot; it +was owing to the investigation which then took place that the conclusion +was arrived at that all had been murdered. What remained for Mooetara to +do (according to their savage notion of what was right) was to take ample +revenge on all the hostile tribes that might fall in his way, whether our +poor countrymen met their deaths through accident or treachery. Mooetara +instantly commenced the work of destruction; and, having made his +vengeance complete, he returned laden with spoil. The promptness with +which he acted on this melancholy occasion greatly increased the feelings +of security possessed by those Englishmen settled on the banks of the +river, as it proved to them that he was both able and willing to protect +them, and though the dead could not be restored, yet he had inflicted an +awful punishment on their murderers.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="CHAPTER_LVI"></a><h2>CHAPTER LVI</h2> + +<h3>FAREWELL TO NEW ZEALAND</h3> + +<p>On the 21st a fair wind and smooth sea favoured our departure. Early in +the morning the natives who were on board assured us everything would +facilitate our passing over the bar with safety, and they prepared to +leave the ship. When the moment of separation came, it caused a great +deal of emotion on both sides. I must confess I felt much affected when I +came to rub noses, shake hands, and say "Farewell" to these kind-hearted +people. I saw them go over the ship's side, and reflected that I should +never behold them more. There is always something repugnant to our +feelings in the idea of separating from any being for ever; and as, in +this instance, I felt assured that this was our last time of meeting, it +cast a gloom over the pleasure the fair wind and smooth sea would +otherwise have afforded me. As we fell down towards the river's mouth, +and, indeed, as long as their canoes were to be seen, they kept waving +their hands towards us.</p> + +<p>Thus terminated my visit to the islands of New Zealand. I had arrived +with feelings of fear and disgust, and was merely induced to take up a +temporary residence amongst the natives, in hopes of finding something +new for my pencil in their peculiar and picturesque style of life. I left +them with opinions, in many respects, very favourable towards them. It +is true, they are cunning and over-reaching in trade, and filthy in their +persons. In regard to the former, we Europeans, I fear, set them a bad +example; of the latter, they will gradually amend. Our short visit to +Kororarika greatly improved them in that particular. All took great pains +to come as clean as possible when they attended our "evening +tea-parties." In my opinion, their sprightly, free, and independent +deportment, together with their kindness and attention to strangers, +compensates for many defects.</p> + +<p>On looking round upon their country, an Englishman cannot fail to feel +gratified when he beholds the good already resulting to these poor +savages from their intercourse with his countrymen; and they themselves +are fully sensible of, and truly grateful for, every mark of kindness +manifested towards them. They have stores full of the finest Indian corn, +which they consider a great luxury, a food which requires little trouble +in preparing, keeps well, and is very nutritious. It is but a few years +since this useful grain was introduced amongst them; and I sincerely hope +this introduction may be followed up, not only by our sending out to them +seeds of vegetables and fruits, but by our forwarding to them every +variety of quadruped which can be used for food. Abundance of the finest +water-melons are daily brought alongside vessels entering their ports; +these, in point of flavour, are superior to any I ever met with. I have +no doubt every variety of European produce essential to the support of +life would thrive equally well; and as food became abundant, and luxuries +were introduced, their disgusting feasts on human flesh would soon be +discontinued altogether.</p> + +<p>We were soon at sea, and speedily felt considerable apprehensions as to +the safe termination of our voyage. Our vessel (the brig Governor +Macquarie) we well knew was a leaky one, though her leaks did not +distress us on the outward voyage, she being then only in ballast trim; +but now that she was loaded to the water's edge, and the winter coming +on, we became greatly alarmed for her. Another disagreeable circumstance +was having no bread or flour on board. To obviate the first evil, and to +save the sailors a great deal of hard labour, our Captain offered to give +a passage to Sydney to several natives, who accepted his offer, they +being always anxious to see the colony; we likewise had on board the +great Chief from the Thames, who had caused us so much trouble at +Kororarika. These men, being fine, strong, active young fellows, were +indefatigable in their exertions at the pumps; and though we had to +contend with much heavy weather, and contrary winds, they kept our vessel +pretty dry. The want of bread was not so easily remedied; though our +Captain treated it lightly, saying he was sure of getting a supply by +making a requisition to the missionaries. He accordingly waited upon +them, and acquainted them with our distressed condition; they had plenty +(for only a few weeks previously they had received a large supply), and +as we knew their agent at Sydney, Mr. Campbell, we had no doubt of +procuring a sufficiency from them to carry us home; but in this we were +disappointed. Captain Kent did not ask them for a supply as a gift, but +solicited merely the <i>loan</i> of a cask or two till we arrived at Sydney, +when he guaranteed that the owners of the brig should return the same +quantity into the missionary storehouse there. The little monosyllable +<i>No</i> was again put in requisition, with this qualification—"that they +did not like the Botany Bay skippers." Through their "dislike," the +passengers and seamen of the brig might have gone unprovided to sea, had +not a "worldly-minded" whaler (fortunately for us) at that critical +moment come into port, who, the instant he heard of the ill-success of +our entreaty, vented his indignation in pretty coarse language, and said, +"if it detained his vessel a week, he would supply us;" and he kept his +word; he gave us a bountiful supply, which rendered us comfortable during +the whole way home.</p> + +<p>It was most interesting to observe our savages when we got well out to +sea. They soon appeared to become accustomed to their novel situation, +and seemed to feel quite at home and at their ease "on board ship." Their +exertions at the pumps were indefatigable. I felt convinced they thought +that during all voyages the same labour was gone through to keep the +vessel afloat; and as it only required strength and exertion, they +cheerfully took that department entirely to themselves, especially as +they soon perceived how useless they were when they attempted to perform +any other duty on board of the brig, as their knowledge of voyaging +extended no further than the distance they go in their own canoes, which, +though very beautiful, are sad leaky things at sea; and as, during the +time they are out, the greater part of the crew are baling the water out +of them, they thought the leaky state of our vessel was no uncommon +occurrence. But however cheerfully they worked during the day, nothing +could induce them to "turn out" at night; they always stowed themselves +away, but in what part of the vessel I never could conjecture. They have +a dread of some unknown evil spirit, which they imagine has power over +them at night; and this supposition makes them terrible cowards in the +dark.</p> + +<p>The second day after we were at sea, I saw a group of savages lying round +the binnacle, all intently occupied in observing the phenomenon of the +magnetic attraction; they seemed at once to comprehend the purpose to +which it was applied, and I listened with eager curiosity to their +remarks upon it.</p> + +<p>"This," said they, "is the white man's God, who directs them safely to +different countries, and then can guide them home again." Out of +compliment to us, and respect for its wonderful powers, they seemed much +inclined to worship this silent little monitor.</p> + +<p>During our voyage to Port Jackson we experienced a succession of +southerly gales, which Captain Kent informed me were very prevalent at +this season of the year. Notwithstanding all our exertions to prevent it, +we were carried considerably to leeward of the port. We made Lord Howe's +Islands, whose high and bold features rise, as it were, out of the ocean; +as we passed close to them, we perceived they were well wooded and +watered; and one of the men, who had been on shore there, informed me that +there was a tolerably good harbour for small craft. A few miles to the +southward of these islands is Ball's Pyramid, a most singular and +sublime-looking rock, rising perpendicularly out of the sea to a height +of a thousand feet; the base of it is enveloped in perpetual surf, +dashing and climbing up its craggy sides. Its appearance, as we saw it, +relieved by the setting sun, and the coming on of a stormy night, was +awful in the extreme!</p> + +<p>Nothing could exceed the delight manifested by our New Zealanders as we +sailed up Port Jackson harbour; but, above all, the windmills most +astonished them. After dancing and screaming with joy at beholding them, +they came running and asking me "if they were not gods." I found they +were inclined to attach that sacred appellation to most things they could +not understand; they did so when they first became possessed of their +muskets, and actually worshipped them, until they discovered how soon +they got out of repair, and then, notwithstanding all the prayers they +could bestow upon them, they would not mend again of their own accord.</p> + +<p>Our Chief from the Thames, who had a great idea of his own dignity, +commenced adorning his person, as he felt convinced the Governor would +instantly grant him an audience when he came on shore. All our lamps were +emptied to add a more beautiful gloss to his hair and complexion; his +whole stock of feathers and bones were arranged to the greatest +advantage. He at length became quite enraged when he found that he was +allowed to sit two days on our deck, amongst all manner of dirty porters +and sailors, without either being visited or sent for; and he was loud in +his reproaches to us for having deceived him. We certainly were to blame +in having induced him to believe we had any influence with the Governor, +for however politic we (who had lived in New Zealand) might think it, to +pay some attentions to these simple savages, his Excellency, +unfortunately, thought otherwise; and though the Chief, attended by his +followers, used to sit in the verandah at Government House from morning +till night, the Governor never once deigned to speak to them, and they +were, in consequence, constantly coming to me with complaints. At length +they told me that unless they obtained an audience from our Chief they +should consider it so great an insult that they would revenge it upon all +the Europeans they could get into their power; and I, well knowing that +several families were settled in that part of the country wherein this +man was Chief, thought it my duty to let the Governor know, that, however +he might dislike their manners and appearance, it might lead to some +serious calamity, if he continued to refuse to give them an audience.</p> + +<p>I accordingly waited upon the Brigade Major, and explained to him how +unwise it was to treat these men with such undisguised contempt. The +result was, the Governor saw the affair in the same point of view as +myself, and condescended to meet them and converse with them for about +five minutes; and with that they were satisfied. Other heads of +departments (civil and military) behaved differently, and evidently felt +a pleasure in having them with them. The Commander of the troops suffered +them to sit at the same table with himself and officers, and had the +war-dance performed in the mess-room, which I thought would have brought +the house down upon our heads. He likewise permitted them to fall into +the ranks with the soldiers, which pleased them beyond everything, +inasmuch as they considered it a higher honour in being permitted to +stand by our warriors on the martial parade than to take food with our +Chiefs at their own table!</p> + +<p>The Attorney-General of the colony took a particular interest in these +savages, and gave a large party, to which they were invited. Several of +the visitors on this occasion came out of curiosity to see how these +cannibals would conduct themselves, expecting, no doubt, to witness a +display of disgusting gluttony; but in that they were disappointed, for +never did any set of men behave with greater decorum than they did.</p> + +<p>On being apprised of this invitation, they were all most anxious to +obtain European dresses, and when we refused to lend them ours, they +requested of our servants the loan of a suit. This being denied them +also, with the little money they had they attempted to bargain for whole +suits of <i>convict</i> dresses, in order to make their <i>debut</i> in style at +the table of the Attorney-General! When I discovered this to be the case, +I explained to them the impropriety of their conduct, and roused their +pride by pointing out to them the absurdity of men of their high rank in +their own country wishing to appear in the cast-off dress of degraded +slaves, and how much more suitable it was to the dignity of their +character to appear in their own national costume. Accordingly, on the +appointed day, they met the company superbly attired in mats and +feathers; they made a splendid show at the dinner-table, and afforded +great amusement to the evening visitors. At an early hour they got very +sleepy, but were too polite to hint how much they felt oppressed by +drowsiness. I saw their eyes grow heavy, and perceived that it was +difficult for them to sit upright on their chairs. I mentioned these +symptoms to their kind host, who immediately consented to their retiring. +They accordingly withdrew into a corner of one of the adjoining rooms, +where, lying down huddled together, and covering themselves with their +mats, they were soon asleep, and gave no interruption to anyone during +the remainder of the evening.</p> + +<p>The greatest treat it was in our power to bestow on them was to take them +to a review of the troops then stationed at Sydney. The splendour of +their regimentals, the regularity of their movements, and the precision +of their firing, made them nearly mad with delight; they ran about the +plain literally wild with joy, occasionally stopping to gaze with wonder +on men performing what they deemed such prodigies. In their ecstasies +they occasionally vociferated their own furious war-whoop. Their +extravagant expressions of delight, and their many extraordinary +gestures, caused great amusement both to the military and to the +spectators assembled on the ground; and when the review was over my +savage friends were quite exhausted with fatigue and excitement.</p> + +<p>After two months' residence at Sydney we had an opportunity of procuring +a passage for them to their own country; and they departed, expressing +the greatest gratitude for our attentions towards them. They were loaded +with presents of all descriptions; for, finding they generally got what +they begged for, while here, they importuned everyone they met, and they +used daily to return home burthened with the most miscellaneous and +extraordinary jumble of commodities it was possible to conceive; for, as +everything they then beheld was new to them, and might be (they thought) +of some service to them in their own country, each trifle was of great +value in their estimation, and was carefully stowed away. They always +expressed their concern that so few muskets were given to them, and that +they were presented with ammunition in such small quantities. War-like +stores were their grand desideratum; and though they would accept of any +thing you chose to give them, yet they always had hopes they should +finally receive their favourite presents of a stocking of powder, a piece +of lead, or a musket.</p> + +<h5>THE END</h5> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="APPENDIX_I"></a><h2>APPENDIX I</h2> + +<h3>MASSACRE OF CAPT. FURNEAUX'S BOAT'S CREW</h3> + +<h3>CANNIBALISM OF THE MAORIS</h3> + +<p>[<i>The following is the account given by Captain Furneaux of the massacre +of his boat's crew, referred to in Earle's narrative on page 24.</i>]</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;"> + +<p>The Resolution, under command of Captain Cook, and the Adventure, +commanded by Captain Furneaux, sailed from Plymouth on the 13th April, +1772, to continue the exploration of New Zealand begun during Captain +Cook's first voyage. The vessels became finally separated in a gale off +Cape Palliser in October, 1773, and the two navigators did not meet again +until after Cook's return to England in July, 1775.</p> + +<p>Captain Furneaux reported that while his ship was refitting in Queen +Charlotte Sound the astronomer's tent was robbed by a party of natives. +One who was seen escaping was fired upon and wounded, when he and his +confederates made for the woods, leaving their canoe with most of the +stolen goods on the shore. "This petty larceny," Captain Furneaux +remarks, "probably laid the foundation of that dreadful catastrophe which +soon after happened," and which he thus describes:</p> + +<p>"On Friday, the 17th, we sent out our large cutter, manned with seven +seamen, under the command of Mr. John Rowe, the first mate, accompanied +by Mr. Woodhouse, midshipman, and James Tobias Swilley, the carpenter's +servant. They were to proceed up the Sound to Grass Cove to gather greens +and celery for the ship's company, with orders to return that evening; +for the tents had been struck at two in the afternoon, and the ship made +ready for sailing the next day. Night coming on, and no cutter appearing, +the captain and others began to express great uneasiness. They sat up all +night in expectation of their arrival, but to no purpose. At daybreak, +therefore, the captain ordered the launch to be hoisted out. She was +double manned, and under the command of our second lieutenant, Mr. +Burney, accompanied by Mr. Freeman, master, the corporal of marines, with +five private men, all well armed, and having plenty of ammunition and +three days' provision. They were ordered first to look into East Bay, +then to proceed to Grass Cove, and if nothing was to be seen or heard of +the cutter there, they were to go farther up the cove, and return by the +west shore. Mr. Rowe having left the ship an hour before the time +proposed for his departure, we thought his curiosity might have carried +him into East Bay, none of our people having ever been there, or that +some accident might have happened to the boat, for not the least +suspicion was entertained of the natives. Mr. Burney returned about +eleven o'clock the same night, and gave us a pointed description of a +most horrible scene, described in the following relation:—</p> + +<p>"'On Saturday, the 18th, we left the ship about nine o'clock in the +morning. We soon got round Long Island and Long Point. We continued +sailing and rowing for East Bay, keeping close in shore, and examining +with our glasses every cove on the larboard side, till near two o'clock +in the afternoon, at which time we stopped at a beach on our left going +up East Bay, to dress our dinner.</p> + +<p>"'About five o'clock in the afternoon, and within an hour after we had +left this place, we opened a small bay adjoining to Grass Cove, and here +we saw a large double canoe just hauled upon the beach, with two men and +a dog. The two men, on seeing us approach, instantly fled, which made us +suspect it was here we should have some tidings of the cutter. On landing +and examining the canoe, the first thing we saw therein was one of our +cutter's rowlock ports and some shoes, one of which among the latter was +known to belong to Mr. Woodhouse. A piece of flesh was found by one of +our people, which at first was thought to be some of the salt meat +belonging to the cutter's men, but, upon examination, we supposed to be +dog's flesh. A most horrid and undeniable proof soon cleared up our +doubts, and convinced us we were among no other than cannibals; for, +advancing further on the beach, we saw about twenty baskets tied up, and +a dog eating a piece of broiled flesh, which, upon examination, we +suspected to be human. We cut open the baskets, some of which were full +of roasted flesh, and others of fern root, which serves them for bread. +Searching others, we found more shoes and a hand, which was immediately +known to have belonged to Thos. Hill, one of our forecastle men, it +having been tattooed with the initials of his name. We now proceeded a +little way in the woods, but saw nothing else. Our next design was to +launch the canoe, intending to destroy her; but seeing a great smoke +ascending over the nearest hill, we made all possible haste to be with +them before sunset.</p> + +<p>"'At half after six we opened Grass Cove, where we saw one single and +three double canoes, and a great many natives assembled on the beach, who +retreated to a small hill, within a ship's length of the water side, +where they stood talking to us. On the top of the high land, beyond the +woods, was a large fire, from whence, all the way down the hill, the +place was thronged like a fair. When we entered the cove, a musketoon was +fired at one of the canoes, as we imagined they might be full of men +lying down, for they were all afloat, but no one was seen in them. Being +doubtful whether their retreat proceeded from fear or a desire to decoy +us into an ambuscade, we were determined not to be surprised, and +therefore, running close in shore, we dropped the grappling near enough +to reach them with our guns, but at too great a distance to be under any +apprehensions from their treachery. The savages on the little hill kept +their ground, hallooing, and making signs for us to land. At these we now +took aim, resolving to kill as many of them as our bullets would reach, +yet it was some time before we could dislodge them. The first volley did +not seem to affect them much, but on the second they began to scramble +away as fast as they could, some howling and others limping. We continued +to fire as long as we could see the least glimpse of any of them through +the bushes. Among these were two very robust men, who maintained their +ground without moving an inch till they found themselves forsaken by all +their companions, and then, disdaining to run, they marched off with +great composure and deliberation. One of them, however, got a fall, and +either lay there or crawled away on his hands and feet; but the other +escaped without any apparent hurt. Mr. Burney now improved their panic, +and, supported by the marines, leaped on shore and pursued the fugitives. +We had not advanced far from the water-side, on the beach, before we met +with two bunches of celery, which had been gathered by the cutter's crew. +A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to which the natives had +tied their canoes, whereby we were convinced this was the spot where the +attack had been made. We now searched all along at the back of the beach, +to see if the cutter was there, but instead of her, the most horrible +scene was presented to our view; for there lay the hearts, heads, and +lungs of several of our people, with hands and limbs in a mangled +condition, some broiled and some raw; but no other parts of their bodies, +which made us suspect that the cannibals had feasted upon and devoured +the rest. At a little distance we saw the dogs gnawing their entrails. We +observed a large body of the natives collected together on a hill about +two miles off, but as night drew on apace, we could not advance to such a +distance; neither did we think it safe to attack them, or even to quit +the shore to take an account of the number killed, our troop being a very +small one, and the savages were both numerous, fierce, and much +irritated. While we remained almost stupefied on the spot, Mr. Fannen +said that he heard the cannibals assembling in the woods, on which we +returned to our boat, and having hauled alongside the canoes, we +demolished three of them. During this transaction the fire on the top of +the hill disappeared, and we could hear the savages in the woods at high +words, quarrelling, perhaps, on account of their different opinions, +whether they should attack us and try to save their canoes. They were +armed with long lances, and weapons not unlike a sergeant's halbert in +shape, made of hard wood, and mounted with bone instead of iron. We +suspected that the dead bodies of our people had been divided among those +different parties of cannibals who had been concerned in the massacre, +and it was not improbable that the group we saw at a distance by the fire +were feasting upon some of them, as those on shore had been where the +remains were found, before they had been disturbed by our unexpected +visit. Be that as it may, we could discover no traces of more than four +of our friends' bodies, nor could we find the place where the cutter was +concealed. It now grew dark, on which account we collected carefully the +remains of our mangled friends, and, putting off, made the best of our +way from this polluted place. When we opened the upper part of the Sound, +we saw a very large fire about three or four miles higher up, which +formed a complete oval, reaching from the top of a hill down almost to +the water-side, the middle space being enclosed all round by the fire, +like a hedge. Mr. Burney and Mr. Fannen having consulted together, they +were both of opinion that we could, by an attempt, reap no other +advantage than the poor satisfaction of killing some more of the savages. +Upon leaving Grass Cove we had fired a volley towards where we heard the +Indians talking, but by going in and out of the boat our pieces had got +wet, and four of them missed fire. What rendered our situation more +critical, it began to rain, and our ammunition was more than half +expended. We, for these reasons, without spending time where nothing +could be hoped for but revenge, proceeded for the ship, and arrived safe +aboard before midnight.'"</p> + +<p>It is a little remarkable that Captain Furneaux had been several times up +Grass Cove with Captain Cook, where they saw no inhabitants, and no other +signs of any but a few deserted villages, which appeared as if they had +not been occupied for many years, and yet, in Mr. Burney's opinion, when +he entered the same cove, there could not be less than fifteen hundred or +two thousand people.</p> + +<p>On Thursday, the 23rd of December, the Adventure departed from, and made +sail out of, the Sound. She stood to the eastward, to clear the straits, +which was happily effected the same evening; but the ship was baffled for +two or three days with light winds before she could clear the coast. In +this interval of time the chests and effects of the ten men who had been +murdered were sold before the mast, according to an old sea custom.</p> + +<p>When Captain Cook was in the Sound on his third voyage, he learned that +the massacre arose over an unpremeditated quarrel. Kahura, who had been +active in the tragedy, told Cook that a Maori having brought a stone +hatchet to barter, the man to whom it was offered took it, and would +neither return it nor give anything for it, and on which the owner +snatched some bread from the party of Europeans, who were at dinner on +the beach, as an equivalent, and then the quarrel began. Kahura himself +had a narrow escape of being shot, while another was shot beside him; and +the Europeans, outnumbered, were surrounded and killed. It was also +stated by the natives that not one of the shots fired by the party of +Captain Furneaux led by Mr. Burney to search for the missing people had +taken effect so as to kill or even to hurt a single person.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<a name="APPENDIX_II"></a><h2>APPENDIX II</h2> + +<h3>THE DEATH OF WHAREUMU (KING GEORGE)</h3> + +<p>The death of this Bay of Islands chief, who acted as protector to Mr. +Earle during his residence at Kororareka, is thus described by Messrs. +Hobbs and Stack, Wesleyan missionaries at Hokianga, in a letter dated +from Mangungu, Hokianga, on the 22nd March, 1828:—</p> + +<p>"On the same day that Hongi died at Whangaroa a son of the late Pomare's, +named Tiki, was killed at Waima by a chief of the tribe called +Mahurihuri. Waima is in Hokianga, and only a few miles distance from us. +The cause of the quarrel was this: Tiki had had some of his pigs stolen +by the natives of Waima, and he was seeking utu by robbing their sweet +potato plantations, for which he was shot.</p> + +<p>"As soon as the report of the young man's death reached the Bay of +Islands, 400 natives collected together, forming two divisions, under two +separate chiefs, Whareumu, or, as he is called by the Europeans, King +George, and Toi, and came to Hokianga. Toi and his party arrived first at +Waima, where he found Patuone and all the natives and other chiefs of our +district. After robbing the natives of Waima of their potatoes, etc., +peace was made, and no further evil consequences seemed likely to arise. +The next day, the 14th, Whareumu and his party arrived. He was highly +displeased with Toi for having made peace on such easy terms. He +prevailed upon him, therefore, to break his league. Whareumu was also +very insolent to Muriwai, intimated that he was a coward, and poured +contempt upon the idea of the Hokianga natives standing in their own +defence. On the morning of the 15th a quarrel ensued between the 400 Bay +of Islanders and the natives of Waima, our natives also having now become +their allies. This fray did not at the outset seem likely to be attended +with fatal results, but, as Solomon justly observes, the beginning of +strife is like the letting out of water; so it was in this instance. +Shots were fired on both sides till several were killed and wounded. At +length Muriwai, who was a pacificator, was wounded and fell. Supposing he +was killed, our natives (for the natives of Waima fled as soon as matters +assumed a serious aspect) no longer regarded matters lightly, but turned +round in great rage, for they also were in the act of retreating, and +singled out Whareumu as a satisfaction for Muriwai. Whareumu received two +balls before he was killed. The one which killed him went through his +throat. As soon as he fell all his followers fled, leaving about nine of +their companions dead on the field, amongst whom was Oro, the chief who +commenced our Whangaroa robbing. This ended the contest. Patuone and Nene +immediately took up the body of the fallen chief and made great +lamentation over him, and have since placed his body between the bodies +of their own relations as a mark of respect."</p> + + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative of a Nine Months' +Residence in New Zealand in 1827, by Augustus Earle + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEW ZEALAND IN 1827 *** + +***** This file should be named 11933-h.htm or 11933-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/1/9/3/11933/ + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram and PG Distributed Proofreaders + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Narrative of a Nine Months' Residence in New Zealand in 1827 + +Author: Augustus Earle + +Release Date: April 7, 2004 [EBook #11933] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEW ZEALAND IN 1827 *** + + + + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram and PG Distributed Proofreaders + + + + +[Illustration: A New Zealand War Speech. (From a sketch by A. Earle.)] + + + + +A NARRATIVE + +OF A + +NINE MONTHS' RESIDENCE + +IN + +NEW ZEALAND + +IN 1827 + +BY + +AUGUSTUS EARLE + +DRAUGHTSMAN TO HIS MAJESTY'S SURVEYING SHIP + +"THE BEAGLE." + +Whitecombe & Tombs Limited + +Christchurch, Wellington, and Dunedin, N.Z.; + +Melbourne and London + +1909 + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +The author of this account of New Zealand in the year 1827 was an artist +by profession. "A love of roving and adventure," he states, tempted him, +at an early age, to sea. In 1815 he procured a passage on board a +storeship bound for Sicily and Malta, where he had a brother stationed +who was a captain in the navy. He visited many parts of the +Mediterranean, accompanying Lord Exmouth's fleet in his brother's gunboat +on his Lordship's first expedition against the Barbary States. He +afterwards visited the ruins of Carthage and the remains of the ancient +city of Ptolomea, or Lepida, situated in ancient Libya. Returning to +Malta, he passed through Sicily, and ascended Mount Etna. In 1818 he left +England for the United States, and spent nearly two years in rambling +through that country. Thence he proceeded to Brazil and Chile, returning +to Rio de Janeiro, where he practised his art until the commencement of +1824. Having received letters of introduction to Lord Amherst, who had +left England to undertake the government of India, Mr. Earle left Rio for +the Cape of Good Hope, intending to take his passage thence to Calcutta. +On the voyage to the Cape the vessel by which he was a passenger touched +at Tristan d'Acunha, and was driven off that island in a gale while Mr. +Earle was ashore, leaving him stranded in that desolate land, where he +remained for six months, when he was rescued by a passing ship, the +"Admiral Cockburn," bound for Van Diemen's Land, whence he visited New +South Wales and New Zealand, returning again to Sydney. In pursuance of +his original resolution to visit India, he left Sydney in "The Rainbow," +touching at the Caroline Islands, Manilla, and Singapore. After spending +some time in Madras, where he executed many original drawings, which were +afterwards copied and exhibited in a panorama, he set out for England by +a French vessel, which was compelled by stress of weather to put into +Mauritius, where she was condemned. Mr. Earle ultimately reached England +in a vessel named the "Resource," but, being still animated by the desire +for travel, he accepted the situation of draughtsman on His Majesty's +ship "Beagle," commanded by Captain Fitzroy, which in the year 1831 left +on a voyage of discovery that has been made famous by the observations of +Charles Darwin, who accompanied the expedition in the capacity of +naturalist. + +The notes which furnished the materials for this book were made by Mr. +Earle during his first visit to New Zealand, in 1827. They are valuable +as setting forth the impressions formed by an educated man, who came into +the primitive community then existing at Hokianga and the Bay of Islands, +without being personally connected either with the trading community, +the missionaries, or the whalers. It should not be inferred from the +reflections Mr. Earle casts upon the missionaries that he was himself an +irreligious man, because the journal of his residence on Tristan d'Acunha +shows that, while living there, he read the whole service of the Church +of England to that little community every Sunday, and his diary in many +places exhibits a reverence for Divine things. It may, however, be said +in extenuation of the lack of hospitality on the part of the missionaries +of which he complains, that many of the early residents and European +visitors to New Zealand were of an undesirable class, and that they +exercised a demoralising influence upon the Maoris. It was not easy for +the missionaries to consort, upon terms of intimacy, with their +fellow-countrymen whose relations with the Natives were such as they must +strongly condemn. Earle's narrative is interesting because it conveys a +realistic description of the Maoris before their national customs and +habits had undergone any material change through association with white +settlers. In dealing with Maori names, Mr. Earle, having at that period +no standard of orthography to guide him, followed the example of Captain +Cook in spelling words phonetically. Except in the case of certain +well-known places the original spelling has been retained in the present +edition of his book. + + + + +CONTENTS. + +CHAPTER I. + +VOYAGE FROM SYDNEY +WRECKS AT HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER II. + +MAORI WELCOME +NATIVE CHARACTERISTICS +EUROPEANS AT HOKIANGA +CANNIBALISM + + +CHAPTER III. + +A MAORI VILLAGE +THE TAPU ON CROPS +MAORI ART + + +CHAPTER IV. + +HOKIANGA RIVER +MR. HOBBS' MISSION +THE TIMBER INDUSTRY + + +CHAPTER V. + +AN OVERLAND JOURNEY + + +CHAPTER VI. + +THE CHIEF PATUONE + + +CHAPTER VII. + +A PICTURESQUE SCENE + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +IN THE DENSE FOREST + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE KERIKERI MISSION +INHOSPITABLE RECEPTION + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE BAY OF ISLANDS + + +CHAPTER XI. + +MASSACRE OF THE BOYD + + +CHAPTER XII. + +KORORAREKA +A MIXED COMMUNITY +SHULITEA (KING GEORGE) + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +MAORI CONSERVATISM + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +A MISSION SETTLEMENT +THE MECHANIC MISSIONARY + + +CHAPTER XV. + +VISIT FROM HONGI +HONGI'S COAT OF MAIL + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +INTERVIEW WITH HONGI + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +A MAORI WELCOME + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +INLAND EXCURSIONS + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +MAORI WOMEN'S CAMP + + +CHAPTER XX. + +LOADING SPARS, HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +DEATH OF A CHIEF +TRADING WITH MAORIS + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +BRUTAL MURDER OF A WIFE + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +ANOTHER JOURNEY +INTERIOR OF THE COUNTRY + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +A WAR PARTY + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +HOSTILE DISPLAY +THE LAW OF MURU + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +A SEDUCTION AND ITS CONSEQUENCES + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +LAW OF RETALIATION + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +A WAR EXPEDITION +CANNIBALISM + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +MAORI SLAVERY + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +PIRACY BY CONVICTS + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +N.Z. CLIMATE +THE STARVATION CURE + + +CHAPTER XXXII. + +THE ART OF TATTOOING + + +CHAPTER XXXIII. + +TRIBAL GOVERNMENT +MAORI BELIEFS +THE CUSTOM OF TAPU +SUNDAY OBSERVANCE +MASSACRE OF FRENCH NAVIGATOR MARION AND PARTY + + +CHAPTER XXXIV. + +THE MAORIS' VIEW OF CHRISTIANITY + + +CHAPTER XXXV. + +HONGI'S THREATS +PREPARING FOR WAR + + +CHAPTER XXXVI. + +ARRIVAL OF A WARSHIP + + +CHAPTER XXXVII. + +WHALERS AND MISSIONARIES + + +CHAPTER XXXVIII. + +THREATENED WAR + + +CHAPTER XXXIX. + +CONSTRUCTION OF A PA + + +CHAPTER XL. + +A SHAM FIGHT + + +CHAPTER XLI. + +AN EXCITING INCIDENT +VISIT OF A GREAT TOHUNGA + + +CHAPTER XLII. + +VICTORIOUS WARRIORS +TREATMENT OF PRISONERS +BAKED HEADS + + +CHAPTER XLIII. + +VISITS OF WHALERS + + +CHAPTER XLIV. + +SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS + + +CHAPTER XLV. + +DEATH OF HONGI + + +CHAPTER XLVI. + +A TRIBAL CONFLICT +SHULITEA (KING GEORGE) KILLED + + +CHAPTER XLVII. + +EXCITEMENT AT KORORAREKA + + +CHAPTER XLVIII. + +EARLE'S FAREWELL +MISSIONARIES ALARMED + + +CHAPTER XLIX. + +JOURNEY TO HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER L. + +EUROPEAN DEFENCES +MR. HOBBS' MESSAGE OF PEACE + + +CHAPTER LI. + +MAORI SOCIAL CUSTOMS +EUROPEAN LIAISONS WITH MAORIS +MAORI MARRIAGES + + +CHAPTER LII. + +A MAORI TANGI + + +CHAPTER LIII. + +MAORI CHARACTERISTICS +ORIGIN OF OUTRAGES +FAMILY AFFECTION + + +CHAPTER LIV. + +TRADE OF HOKIANGA + + +CHAPTER LV. + +A CREW MASSACRED + + +CHAPTER LVI. + +FAREWELL TO NEW ZEALAND +MAORIS IN SYDNEY + + +APPENDIX I. + +MASSACRE OF FURNEAUX'S BOAT'S CREW +CANNIBALISM + + +APPENDIX II. + +A TRIBAL FIGHT + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + +A Maori War Speech (Frontispiece) +Patuone, a Hokianga Chief +Mission Station, Kerikeri +Scene of Boyd Massacre +Maori War Expedition +Maori Method of Tattooing +Specimens of Tattooing +Whalers at Bay of Islands + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +VOYAGE FROM SYDNEY. + + +Having made up my mind to visit the island of New Zealand, and having +persuaded my friend Mr. Shand to accompany me, we made an arrangement for +the passage with Captain Kent, of the brig Governor Macquarie, and, +bidding adieu to our friends at Sydney, in a few hours (on October 20th, +1827) we were wafted into the great Pacific Ocean. + +There were several other passengers on board, who were proceeding to New +Zealand to form a Wesleyan missionary establishment at Hokianga. Amongst +these were a Mr. and Mrs. Hobbs, who were most enthusiastic in the cause. +They had formerly belonged to the same mission at Whangaroa, when a war +which took place amongst the natives totally destroyed their +establishment; and, after enduring great varieties of suffering, they +escaped, but lost everything they possessed, except the clothes they had +on. We had a very fine wind for nine days, and on the 29th we saw a +gannet, a sure sign we were within a hundred miles of land, for these +birds are never seen at a greater distance from it. True to our +anticipations, towards the afternoon the water became discoloured, and at +midnight we saw the land. + +This interesting island, of which we now got sight, was first discovered +by that eminent and enterprising Dutch navigator, Tasman, subsequently to +the discovery of Van Diemen's Land. His voyage from Batavia in 1642, +undertaken by order of the then Governor-General of Dutch India, Anthony +Van Diemen, was one of the most important and successful ever undertaken, +for it was during this voyage that New Holland was discovered, of which +Van Diemen's Land was then supposed to form a part, the extensive island +of New Zealand being supposed to form another portion.[1] + +The slight intercourse of the discoverers with the natives had so +calamitous a termination, and the exaggerated accounts it was then a kind +of fashion to give of savages, stigmatised the New Zealanders with such a +character for treachery and cruelty, that their island was not visited +again for upwards of a century, when the immortal Cook drew aside the +veil of error and obscurity from this unexplored land, and rescued the +character of its inhabitants from the ignominy which its original +discoverers, the Dutch, had thrown upon them. This immense tract of land +was imagined by Tasman to form but one island, and he most unaptly gave +it the name of New Zealand, from its great resemblance (as was stated) to +his own country.[2] + +In 1770 Cook discovered a strait of easy access and safe navigation, +cutting the island nearly in half, thus making two islands of what had +before been imagined but one. This strait bears his name, and is often +traversed by vessels from New South Wales returning home by way of Cape +Horn. + +In 1827 His Majesty's ship Warsprite passed through this strait in +company with the Volage, twenty-eight guns, being the first English line +of battleship which had ever made the attempt. A few years since, Captain +Stewart, commanding a colonial vessel out of Port Jackson, discovered +another strait, which cut off the extreme southern point, making it a +separate island that bears his name, and now almost every year our +sealers and whalers are making additional and useful discoveries along +its coasts. + +These islands lie between lat. 34 deg. and 48 deg.S. and long. 166 deg. and 180 deg.E. +The opening of the land to which we were now opposite, and which was our +destined port, the accurate eye of Cook had observed, but did not attempt +the entrance; and it is only about ten years since, when the two store +ships, the Dromedary and Coromandel, loaded with spars on the coast, that +a small vessel attending on those ships first crossed the bar; but +although they took soundings and laid down buoys, the commanders of the +large vessels were afraid of attempting the entrance, which proved their +good sense, for their great draught of water would have rendered the +undertaking more hazardous than the risk was worth. Yet during my +residence in this country two large vessels crossed the bar, and +recrossed it heavily laden, without the slightest accident--one the +Harmony, of London, 400 tons burden; the other the Elizabeth, of Sydney, +of nearly equal tonnage--but in proof that it is not always safe, a few +months after this, two schooners of extremely light draught were lost, +though they were both commanded by men who perfectly well knew the +channels through the bar. It was a singular circumstance that both +vessels had been built in New Zealand; one, the Herald, a small and +beautiful craft, built by and belonging to the Church missionaries, the +crew of which escaped, but the disastrous circumstances attending the +wreck of the other, called the Enterprise, I shall relate in their proper +place. + +The morning of the 30th was foggy and unfavourable, but it suddenly +cleared up, and exhibited the entrance of Hokianga right before us, and a +light breeze came to our aid to carry us in. The entrance to this river +is very remarkable, and can never be mistaken by mariners. On the north +side, for many miles, are hills of sand, white, bleak, and barren, ending +abruptly at the entrance of the river, which is about a quarter of a mile +across. Where the south head rises abrupt, craggy, and black, the land +all round is covered with verdure; thus, at the first glimpse of these +heads from the sea, one is white, the other black. + +The only difficulty attending the entrance (and, indeed, the only thing +which prevents Hokianga from being one of the finest harbours in the +world) is the bar. This lies two miles from the mouth of the river, its +head enveloped in breakers and foam, bidding defiance and threatening +destruction to all large ships which may attempt the passage. However, +we fortunately slipped over its sandy sides, undamaged, in three-fathom +water. + +After crossing the bar, no other obstacle lay in our way, and, floating +gradually into a beautiful river, we soon lost sight of the sea, and were +sailing up a spacious sheet of water, which became considerably wider +after entering it; while majestic hills rose on each side, covered with +verdure to their very summits. Looking up the river, we beheld various +headlands stretching into the water, and gradually contracting in width, +till they became fainter and fainter in the distance, and all was lost in +the azure of the horizon. The excitement occasioned by contemplating +these beautiful scenes was soon interrupted by the hurried approach of +canoes, and the extraordinary noises made by the natives who were in +them. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 1: The Dutch and Spanish had discovered N.E. Australia as early +as 1606, and the Dutch had on several occasions visited the N.W. and +South coasts of the Continent before the date of Tasman's voyage.] + +[Footnote 2: The name given by Tasman was Staten Landt. The name New +Zealand was bestowed in 1643 by the States-General of the United +Provinces.] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES. + + +As the arrival of a ship is always a profitable occurrence, great +exertions are made to be the first on board. There were several canoes +pulling towards us, and from them a number of muskets were fired, a +compliment we returned with our swivels; one of the canoes soon came +alongside, and an old chief came on board, who rubbed noses with Captain +Kent, whom he recognised as an old acquaintance; he then went round and +shook hands with all the strangers, after which he squatted himself down +upon the deck, seeming very much to enjoy the triumph of being the first +on board. But others very soon coming up with us, our decks were crowded +with them, some boarding us at the gangway, others climbing up the chains +and bows, and finding entrances where they could. All were in perfect +good humour, and pleasure beamed in all their countenances. + +I had heard a great deal respecting the splendid race of men I was going +to visit, and the few specimens I had occasionally met with at Sydney so +much pleased me, that I was extremely anxious to see a number of them +together, to judge whether (as a nation) they were finer in their +proportions than the English, or whether it was mere accident that +brought some of their tallest and finest proportioned men before me. + +I examined these savages, as they crowded round our decks, with the +critical eye of an artist; they were generally taller and larger men +than ourselves; those of middle height were broad-chested and muscular, +and their limbs as sinewy as though they had been occupied all their +lives in laborious employments. Their colour is lighter than that of the +American Indian, their features small and regular, their hair is in a +profusion of beautiful curls, whereas that of the Indian is straight and +lank. The disposition of the New Zealander appears to be full of fun and +gaiety, while the Indian is dull, shy, and suspicious. + +I have known Indians in America from the north to the south--the +miserable, idiotic Botecooda of Brazil, the fierce warrior of Canada, and +the gentle and civilised Peruvian, yet in their features and complexions +they are all much alike. I observed their statures altered with their +different latitudes; the Chilians and the Canadians being nearly the +same, in figure tall, thin, and active, their climate being nearly the +same, although at the two extremes of America; while those living between +the equinoxes are short, fat, and lazy. I am persuaded that these South +Sea Islanders, though so nearly of the same complexion, still are not of +the same race, laziness being the characteristic of the American Indian +from north to south, while the New Zealanders are laborious in the +extreme, as their astonishing and minute carvings prove. The moment the +Indian tasted intoxicating spirits his valour left him, he became an +idiot and a tool in the hands of the white man. Here they have the utmost +aversion to every kind of "wine or strong drink," and very often severely +take us to task for indulging in such an extraordinary and debasing +propensity, or, as they call it, "of making ourselves mad;" but both +nations are equally fond of tobacco. + +The first thing which struck me forcibly was, that each of these savages +was armed with a good musket, and most of them had also a cartouch box +buckled round their waists, filled with ball cartridges, and those who +had fired their pieces from the canoes carefully cleaned the pans, +covered the locks over with a piece of dry rag, and put them in a secure +place in their canoes. Every person who has read Captain Cook's account +of the natives of New Zealand would be astonished at the change which has +taken place since his time, when the firing of a single musket would have +terrified a whole village. + +As we sailed up the river very slowly, the throng of savages increased to +such a degree that we could scarcely move, and, to add to our confusion, +they gave us "a dance of welcome," standing on one spot, and stamping so +furiously that I really feared they would have stove in the decks, which +our lady passengers were obliged to leave, as when the dance began each +man proceeded to strip himself naked, a custom indispensable among +themselves. + +We came to an anchor off a native village called Pakanae, where two +chiefs of consequence came on board, who soon cleared our decks of a +considerable number. We paid great attention to these chiefs, admitting +them into the cabin, etc., and it had the effect of lessening the noise, +and bringing about some kind of order amongst those who still continued +on deck. The names of these chiefs were Moetara and Akaeigh, and they +were the heads of the village opposite to which we had anchored. They +were well known to our captain, who spoke their language. They were +accustomed to the society of Europeans, also to transact business with +them; and as they were flax, timber, and hog merchants, they and the +captain talked over the state of the markets during the evening. They +were clothed in mats, called Kaka-hoos. The ladies joined our party at +supper, and we spent a very cheerful time with our savage visitors, who +both behaved in as polite and respectful a manner as the best educated +gentlemen could have done; their pleasing manners so ingratiated them +into the good opinion of the ladies, that they all declared "they would +be really very handsome men if their faces were not tattooed." + +The next day we received a visit from Mr. and Mrs. Butler, English +people, who had taken up their residence here for the purpose of trading, +and we returned with them on shore, taking our female passengers with us, +and leaving them in charge of Mrs. Butler. I determined to stroll through +the village, which is, in fact, a collection of rude huts, huddled +together without system or regularity. Dock leaves and weeds of every +description were growing luxuriantly all round them, and in many places +actually overtopping the houses, few being more than four feet high, with +a doorway about two feet. Scarcely any of them were inhabited, as at this +season of the year the greater part of the population prefer living in +the open air to remaining in their small, smoky ovens of houses. + +I had not rambled far before I witnessed a scene which forcibly reminded +me of the savage country in which I then was, and the great alteration of +character and customs a few days' sail will make. The sight to me so +appalling was that of the remains of a human body which had been roasted, +and a number of hogs and dogs were snarling and feasting upon it! I was +more shocked than surprised, for I had been informed of the character of +the New Zealanders long before my arrival amongst them; still, the +coming suddenly and unexpectedly upon a sight like this completely +sickened me of rambling, at least for that day, and I hastened back to +Mr. Butler's, eager to inquire into the particulars of the horrid +catastrophe. + +That gentleman informed me that the night of the arrival of our ship, a +chief had set one of his kookies (or slaves) to watch a piece of ground +planted with the kumara, or sweet potato, in order to prevent the hogs +committing depredations upon it. The poor lad, delighted with the +appearance of our vessel, was more intent upon observing her come to an +anchor than upon guarding his master's property, and suffered the hogs to +ramble into the plantation, where they soon made dreadful havoc. In the +midst of this trespass and neglect of orders his master arrived. The +result was certain; he instantly killed the unfortunate boy with a blow +on the head from his stone hatchet, then ordered a fire to be made, and +the body to be dragged to it, where it was roasted and consumed. + +It was now time to return on board, and we walked down to the beach for +that purpose, but it was quite low water, and the boat was full two +hundred feet off. She lay at the end of a long, slimy, muddy flat, and +while we were debating how we should manage to get to her, the native +chiefs took up the females in their arms, as though they were children, +and, in spite of all their blushes and remonstrances, carried them to the +boat and placed them safely in it, each seeming to enjoy the task. They +then returned and gave us a passage, walking as easily with us upon their +backs as if we had been no heavier than so many muskets. We took care not +to shock the feelings of the females by letting them know the tragedy so +lately acted in the village, or horrify them by telling them that one of +their carriers was the murderer! It would have been difficult to have +made them believe that such a noble-looking and good-natured fellow had +so lately imbrued his hands in the blood of a fellow creature. + +We had now been lying here two days, and the curiosity of the people did +not diminish, nor were our visitors less numerous. Parties were hourly +coming up and down the river to pay their respects to our captain, and +the report of there being numerous passengers on board greatly increased +their desire to hold intercourse with us. They all appeared anxious to +make themselves useful, some chopping wood for our cook, others assisting +the steward, in order to get what might be left on the plates, others +brought small presents of fish; in fact, all availed themselves of any +excuse to get on board; yet, notwithstanding the crowd, and the confusion +attending their movements, there was scarcely any thieving amongst them. +They have seen the detestation that theft is held in by Europeans, and +the injury it does to trade, and have, in consequence, nearly left it +off. None but the meanest slaves will now practise it, and they do so at +the risk of their lives; for, if caught in the act, and the charge is +proved against them, their heads are cut off! + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +A RAMBLE ASHORE. + + +On November 3rd we visited Pakanae, a village lying round the base of a +large conical hill, about three hundred feet high, with a fortification +on the top, which gives it its name, pa signifying in their language a +fortified place. Behind it lies a swamp, which is covered at high water, +and which adds greatly to its security; for the unsettled and war-like +spirit of the natives renders it absolutely necessary that they always +should have a place of strength near at hand to retreat to, as they never +know how suddenly their enemies may make an attack upon them. To the +right of this swamp is a beautiful valley, in a very high state of +cultivation. At the time I stood viewing it from the summit of the hill, +I was charmed with the scene of industry and bustle it presented, all the +inhabitants of the village having gone forth to plant their potatoes, +kumaras, and Indian corn. In the rear, and forming a fine, bold +background, is an immense chain of high and rugged hills, covered to +their summits with thick forests, and forming, as it were, a natural +barrier and protection to this smiling and fruitful valley, while from +their wooded sides issue innumerable small streams of clear water, which, +meeting at the base, form beautiful rivulets, and after meandering +through the valley, and serving all the purposes of irrigation, they +empty themselves into the Hokianga river. + +Standing on the spot from which I have described the above prospect, I +felt fully convinced of the frugality and industry of these savages. The +regularity of their plantations, and the order with which they carry on +their various works, differ greatly from most of their brethren in the +South Seas, as here the chiefs and their families set the example of +labour; and when that is the case, none can refuse to toil. Round the +village of Pakanae, at one glance is to be seen above 200 acres of +cultivated land, and that not slightly turned up, but well worked and +cleared; and when the badness of their tools is considered, together with +their limited knowledge of agriculture, their persevering industry I look +upon as truly astonishing. + +The New Zealanders have established here a wise custom, which prevents a +great deal of waste and confusion, and generally preserves to the planter +a good crop, in return for the trouble of sowing; namely, as soon as the +ground is finished, and the seed sown, it is _tabooed,_ that, is rendered +sacred, by men appointed for that service, and it is death to trample +over or disturb any part of this consecrated ground. The wisdom and +utility of this regulation must be obvious to every one. But, however +useful this taboo system is to the natives, it is a great inconvenience +to a stranger who is rambling over the country, for if he does not use +the greatest caution, and procure a guide, he may get himself into a +serious dilemma before his rambles be over, which had nearly been the +case with our party this day. We were ascending a hill, for the purpose +of inspecting a New Zealand fortification on the summit, when a little +boy joined our party, either out of curiosity, or in hopes of getting a +fish-hook from us--a thing the natives are continually asking for; but as +we had a man with us who spoke the language fluently, we did not much +regard the boy's guidance, though to us it speedily became of great +importance. We were taking a short cut, to make a quick ascent to the top +of the hill, when the little fellow uttered a cry of horror. Our +interpreter asked him what he meant, when he pointed his finger forward, +and told him to look, for the ground was tabooed. We did as he desired +us, but beheld nothing particular, till he showed us, in one of the +trees, among the branches, a large bunch of something, but we could not +make out what it was. This, he told us, was the body of a chief, then +undergoing the process of decomposition, previous to interment, which +process is witnessed by men appointed for that purpose, who alone are +permitted to approach the spot. The ground all round is tabooed, so that, +had it not been for the interference of our young guide, we should +certainly have been placed in a most distressing situation; and it is a +question if our ignorance of their customs would have been considered a +sufficient excuse for our offence. + +The top of this hill was level and square, and was capable of containing +several hundred warriors. It was cut into slopes all round, and fortified +by stockades in every direction, which rendered it impregnable. The +natives assured me its strength had been often tried. The famous warrior +Hongi had attacked it several times, but had always been defeated with +great loss. After inspecting this fortification, which excited our +admiration, we proceeded through the village at the bottom of the hill. +Nearly the whole of the inhabitants were out working in the fields. We +entered several of their habitations, and found all their property +exposed and unguarded. Even their muskets and powder, which they prize +above everything, were open to our inspection, so little idea of robbery +have they amongst themselves. But as there are many hogs and dogs roaming +at large through their villages, they are very careful to fence their +dwellings round with wicker work, to preserve them from the depredations +of these animals; and as the houses are extremely low, they have very +much the appearance of bird cages or rabbit hutches. Their storehouses +are generally placed upon poles, a few feet from the ground, and tabooed +or consecrated. Great taste and ingenuity are displayed in carving and +ornamenting these depositories. I made drawings from several of them, +which were entirely covered with carving; and some good attempts at +groups of figures, as large as life, plainly showed the dawning of the +art of sculpture amongst them. Many of the attempts of the New Zealanders +in that art are quite as good, if not better, than various specimens I +have seen of the first efforts of the early Egyptians. + +Painting and sculpture are both arts greatly admired by these rude +people. Every house of consequence is ornamented and embellished, and +their canoes have the most minute and elaborate workmanship bestowed upon +them. + +Their food is always eaten out of little baskets, rudely woven of green +flax; and as they generally leave some for their next meal, they hang +these baskets on sticks or props, till they are ready to eat again. Thus +a village presents a very singular appearance, as it is stuck full of +sticks, with various kinds of baskets hanging from them. This plan, +however, is the most rational that could be adopted, as none of their +eatables can be left on the ground, or they would become the prey of the +hogs and dogs. + +In the course of our long ramble we noticed many pretty little huts, some +having neat gardens all round them, planted with fruits and corn. One +house which we saw was built by a chief who had made several voyages to +Port Jackson, and it was really a very comfortable dwelling. It had a +high door, which we could enter without stooping, and in a separate room +was constructed a bed, after the pattern of one on ship-board. He had +likewise a large sea-chest in his house, the key of which (highly +polished) was hung round his neck as an ornament. In the course of our +walk we came to a spot on which a group of old people were sitting +sunning themselves, and they immediately all rose to welcome us. I +remarked one amongst them who seemed, from his silvery locks and feeble +limbs, to be very old. I asked him, among other questions, whether he +remembered Captain Cook. He said he did not, but well recollected Captain +Furneaux, and was one of the party which cut off and massacred his boat's +crew; and from other information which I received I believe his assertion +to have been correct.[3] + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 3: Captain Furneaux's account of this massacre is printed in +the Appendix.] + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE HOKIANGA RIVER EIGHTY YEARS AGO. + + +As our missionary passengers had by this time fixed upon the spot where +they intended to establish their settlement, and it being several miles +up the river, we got under weigh to proceed thither. The captain's +agreement being to that effect, we proceeded with the first fair wind, +about twenty miles up the stream, which was as far as we could with +safety take the vessel. The shores on each side this noble river are +composed of hills gradually rising behind each other, most of them +covered with woods to the water's edge. Not a vestige of a habitation is +to be seen, and if it had not been for the occasional sight of a canoe, +we might have imagined the country to be totally uninhabited. Opposite a +small island, or, rather, sand-bank, the vessel grounded, and had to +remain there till the next tide floated her off. It was a curious and +interesting spot, being a native pa and depot, and was entirely covered +with storehouses for provisions and ammunition. The centre was so +contrived that all assailants might be cut off before they could effect a +landing; and we were all much gratified by the judgment and forethought +displayed in this little military work. The next morning we got off, but +could not proceed far, as the shoals were becoming so numerous as to +render the navigation dangerous. But here we beheld, with both surprise +and satisfaction, a most unexpected sight, namely, a snug little colony +of our own countrymen, comfortably settled and usefully employed in this +savage and unexplored country. Some enterprising merchants of Port +Jackson have established here a dockyard and a number of sawpits. Several +vessels have been laden with timber and spars; one vessel has been built, +launched, and sent to sea from this spot; and another of a hundred and +fifty tons burthen was then upon the stocks! + +On landing at this establishment at Te Horeke, or, as the Englishmen have +called it, "Deptford," I was greatly delighted with the appearance of +order, bustle, and industry it presented. Here were storehouses, +dwelling-houses, and various offices for the mechanics; and every +department seemed as well filled as it could have been in a civilised +country. To me the most interesting circumstance was to notice the great +delight of the natives, and the pleasure they seemed to take in observing +the progress of the various works. All were officious to "lend a hand," +and each seemed eager to be employed. This feeling corresponds with my +idea of the best method of civilising a savage. Nothing can more +completely show the importance of the useful arts than a dockyard. In it +are practised nearly all the mechanical trades; and these present to the +busy enquiring mind of a New Zealander a practical encyclopaedia of +knowledge. When he sees the combined exertions of the smith and carpenter +create so huge a fabric as a ship, his mind is filled with wonder and +delight; and when he witnesses the moulding of iron at the anvil, it +excites his astonishment and emulation. + +The people of the dockyard informed me that, although it was constantly +crowded with natives, scarcely anything had ever been stolen, and all the +chiefs in the neighbourhood took so great an interest in the work that +any annoyance offered to those employed would immediately be revenged as +a personal affront. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +JOURNEY OVERLAND TO BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +Here we left the brig to unload her cargo; my friend Shand and myself +having determined to proceed overland to the Bay of Islands. An +intelligent chief, hearing of our intention, offered to accompany us +himself, and lent us two of his kookies to carry our baggage. We accepted +the chieftain's offer, and several other natives joined the party to bear +us company. + +November 7.--We all embarked in a canoe, in order to reach the head of +the river before we began our pedestrian tour; and, after paddling about +eight or nine miles further up, where the river became exceedingly +narrow, we came to another English settlement. This consisted of a party +of men who had come out in the Rosanna, the vessel employed by the New +Zealand Company. When all ideas of settling were totally abandoned by the +officers sent out for that purpose, these men chose rather to remain by +themselves than to return home; and we found them busily employed in +cutting timber, sawing planks, and making oars for the Sydney market. How +far they may prove successful, time only can develop; but as these +enterprising men had only their own industry to assist them, it could not +be expected that their establishment could bear a comparison with the one +at Te Horeke, which is supported by several of the most wealthy +merchants of New South Wales. + +As the river became narrower, the habitations of the natives were more +numerous. The chief of this district (whose name is Patuone) has a +splendid village very near the carpenters' establishment we have just +described. He had taken these industrious men under his especial +protection, and seemed very proud of having a settlement of that kind in +his territories, as it gave him power and consequence among all the +neighbouring chiefs, from the trade he carried on by means of their +exertions. + +Patuone had likewise induced the Wesleyan missionaries to settle upon his +land, about a mile below; so that the head of this river assumed quite +the appearance of a civilised colony. + +Our party now disembarked. We landed in a dense forest, which reached to +the water's edge; and our guides and slaves began to divide the loads +each was to carry on his back. Several joined us from the two English +stations on the river, and we then amounted to a very large party; all in +high spirits, and anxious to proceed on our journey. When our natives had +distributed the luggage, they loaded themselves, which they did with both +skill and quickness; for a New Zealander is never at a loss for cords or +ropes. Their plan is to gather a few handfuls of flax, which they soon +twist into a very good substitute: with this material they formed slings, +with which they dexterously fastened our moveables on their backs, and +set off at a good trot, calling out to us to follow them. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +MEETING WITH THE CHIEF PATUONE. + + +We travelled through a wood so thick that the light of heaven could not +penetrate the trees that composed it. They were so large and so close +together that in many places we had some difficulty to squeeze ourselves +through them. To add to our perplexities, innumerable streams intersected +this forest, which always brought us Europeans to a complete standstill. +The only bridges which the natives ever think of making are formed by +cutting down a tree, and letting it fall across; and over these our +bare-legged attendants, loaded as they were, scrambled with all the +agility of cats or monkeys; but it was not so with us: for several times +they seated one of us on the top of their load, and carried him over. The +chief, who accompanied us, made it his particular business to see me safe +through every difficulty, and many times he carried me himself over such +places as I dared scarcely venture to look down upon. + +In the midst of this wood we met the chief of this district, Patuone, +who, together with all his family, were employed in planting a small, +cleared patch of land. He appeared highly delighted at beholding +strangers; and all his wives came from their occupations to welcome us. +He told us that, a very few miles farther on, we should come to a village +belonging to him, where his eldest son was residing, and that we must +there pass the night. + +[Illustration: Patuone, a Notable Hokianga Chief.] + +We thanked him for the invitation, rubbed noses with him (their token of +friendship), and parted. + +Soon after parting with Patuone, we fell in with a most beautiful bull, +cow, and calf. I was amazed at seeing such fine animals in this country; +but my companions soon cleared up the mystery by informing me that they +were gifts from the missionaries, who had orders from Home to distribute +these useful animals amongst such chiefs as they thought would take care +of them: a wise and beneficial measure. These animals were tabooed, +consequently they could ramble wherever they found food most to their +liking. About dusk we arrived at the village Patuone had described to us. +We were most happy to see it, as we were heartily tired, and dripping wet +from a recent and heavy shower. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +A MAORI VILLAGE. + + +The village was situated on the side of a small, picturesque stream, one +of the branches of the Hokianga, but continued droughts had at this time +reduced it to a trifling brook. From its lofty banks, and the large trees +lying athwart it, we conjectured that during heavy rains it must be a +mighty flood. A long straggling collection of huts composed the village: +a great deal of land in its vicinity was cleared and planted, which +doubtless was the ostensible object of Patuone's people being here. As +the village lay upon the opposite shore from that on which we arrived, we +sat some time under the shelter of a large tree, to contemplate its +appearance, and to give time to arrange our party for passing the stream, +and also for my making a sketch. The red glare of the setting sun, just +touching the top of every object, beautifully illuminated the landscape; +and its rays bursting through the black woods in the background, gave the +woods an appearance of being on fire; while a beautiful rainbow, thrown +across the sky, tinged the scene with a fairy-land effect. + +As soon as they perceived us from the opposite shore, a loud shout of +welcome was raised, and all the inhabitants came out to meet us. They +carried us over the stream, conducted us to their huts, and then sat down +to gaze at and admire us. + +As we were very hungry after our fatiguing walk, we soon unpacked our +baggage, and in so doing made an unavoidable display of many valuable and +glittering objects, which roused the attention of our savage spectators, +and caused them, on the unfolding of every fresh object, to make loud and +long exclamations of wonder and amazement. As I was then "a stranger in +their land," and unaccustomed to their peculiarities, I felt a little +alarmed at their shouts; but, on a longer acquaintance with them, I found +my fears had been groundless. + +Here we saw the son of Patuone, accompanied by thirty or forty young +savages, sitting or lying all round us. All were exceedingly handsome, +notwithstanding the wildness of their appearance and the ferocity of +their looks. Let the reader picture to himself this savage group, +handling everything they saw, each one armed with a musket, loaded with +ball, a cartouch-box buckled round his waist, and a stone patoo-patoo, or +hatchet, in his hand, while human bones were hung round each neck by way +of ornament; let the scene and situation be taken into consideration, and +he will acknowledge it was calculated to make the young traveller wish +himself safe at home; but, when I suspected, I wronged them; for after +admiring everything we had brought with us (more especially our +fowling-pieces, which were very beautiful ones), they begged a little +tobacco, then retired to a distance from the hut which had been prepared +for our reception, and left us to take our supper uninterrupted; after +which they placed all our baggage in the hut, that we might be assured of +its safety. + +It proved a rainy, miserable night; and we were a large party, crowded +into a small, smoky hut, with a fire lighted in the middle; as, after +our supper, the natives, in order to have as much of our company as +possible, crowded it till it was literally crammed. However annoying this +might be, still I was recompensed by the novelty and picturesque +appearance of the scene. Salvator Rosa could not have conceived a finer +study of the horrible. A dozen men, of the largest and most athletic +forms, their cakahoos (or mat-dresses) laid aside, and their huge limbs +exposed to the red glare of the fire; their faces rendered hideous by +being tattooed all over, showing by the firelight quite a bright blue; +their eyes, which are remarkable for their fierce expression, all fixed +upon us, but with a look of good temper, co-mingled with intense +curiosity. All my fears had by this time subsided, and, being master of +myself, I had leisure to study and enjoy the scene; we smoked a social +pipe with them (for they are all immoderately fond of tobacco), and I +then stretched myself down to sleep amidst all their chattering and +smoke. + +But all my attempts at slumber were fruitless. I underwent a simultaneous +attack of vermin of all descriptions; fleas, mosquitoes, and sand-flies, +which, beside their depredations on my person, made such a buzzing noise, +that even the chattering of the natives could not drown it, or the smoke +from the fire or pipes drive them away. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +TOILSOME JOURNEY THROUGH THE FOREST. + + +Next morning, at daybreak, we took leave of our hosts, and proceeded on +our journey; we had eight miles more of this thick forest to scramble +through, and this part we found considerably worse than that we had +traversed yesterday. The roots of trees covered the path in all +directions, rendering it necessary to watch every step we took, in order +to prevent being thrown down; the supple-jacks, suspended and twining +from tree to tree, making in many places a complete net-work; and while +we were toiling with the greatest difficulty through this miserable road, +our natives were jogging on as comfortably as possible: use had so +completely accustomed them to it, that they sprung over the roots, and +dived under the supple-jacks and branches, with perfect ease, while we +were panting after them in vain. The whole way was mountainous. The +climbing up, and then descending, was truly frightful; not a gleam of sky +was to be seen, all was a mass of gigantic trees, straight and lofty, +their wide spreading branches mingling overhead, and producing throughout +the forest an endless darkness and unbroken gloom. + +After three or four hours of laborious struggling, we emerged from the +wood, and found ourselves upon an extensive plain, which, as far as the +eye could reach, appeared covered with fern. A small path lay before us, +and this was our road. The New Zealanders always travel on foot, one +after the other, or in Indian file. Their pathways are not more than a +foot wide, which to a European is most painful; but as the natives +invariably walk with the feet turned in, or pigeon-toed, they feel no +inconvenience from the narrowness. When a traveller is once on the path, +it is impossible for him to go astray. No other animal, except man, ever +traverses this country, and _his_ track cannot be mistaken, since none +ever deviate from the beaten footpath, which was in consequence, in some +places (where the soil was light), worn so deep as to resemble a gutter +more than a road. We proceeded for many miles in this unsocial manner; +unsocial, for it precludes all conversation. Our natives occasionally +gave us a song, or, rather, dirge, in which they all joined chorus. +Having at length attained the summit of a hill, we beheld the Bay of +Islands, stretching out in the distance; and at sunset we arrived at the +Kerikeri river, where there is a Church-missionary settlement. + +[Illustration: Mission Station, Kerikeri.] + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE MISSIONARY SETTLEMENT AT KERIKERI. + + +We had travelled all day through a country in which every object we saw +was of a character that reminded us forcibly of the savage community we +were with. Occasionally we met groups of naked men, trotting along under +immense loads, and screaming their barbarous songs of recognition; +sometimes we beheld an uncouthly carved figure, daubed over with red +ochre, and fixed in the ground, to give notice that one side of the road +was tabooed. An extraordinary contrast was now presented to our view, for +we came suddenly in front of a complete little English village. Wreaths +of white smoke were rising from the chimneys, of neat weather-boarded +houses. The glazed windows reflected the brilliant glow from the rays of +the setting sun, while herds of fat cattle were winding down the hills, +lowing as they leisurely bent their steps toward the farm-yard. It is +impossible for me to describe what I felt on contemplating a scene so +similar to those I had left behind me. + +According to the custom of this country, we fired our muskets, to warn +the inhabitants of the settlement of our approach. We arranged our +dresses in the best order we could, and proceeded towards the village. As +the report of our guns had been heard, groups of nondescripts came +running out to meet us. I could scarcely tell to what order of beings +they belonged; but on their near approach, I found them to be the New +Zealand youths, who were settled with the missionaries. They were habited +in the most uncouth dresses imaginable. These pious men, certainly, have +no taste for the picturesque; they had obscured the finest human forms +under a seaman's huge clothing. Boys not more than fifteen wore jackets +reaching to their knees, and buttoned up to the throat with great black +horn buttons, a coarse checked shirt, the collar of which spread half-way +over their face, their luxuriant, beautiful hair was cut close off, and +each head was crammed into a close Scotch bonnet! + +These half-converted, or, rather, half-_covered_, youths, after rubbing +noses, and chattering with our guides, conducted us to the dwellings of +their masters. As I had a letter of introduction from one of their own +body, I felt not the slightest doubt of a kind reception; so we proceeded +with confidence. We were ushered into a house, all cleanliness and +comfort, all order, silence, and unsociability. After presenting my +letter to a grave-looking personage, it had to undergo a private +inspection in an adjoining room, and the result was an invitation "to +stay and take a cup of tea!" All that an abundant farm and excellent +grocer in England could supply were soon before us. Each person of the +mission, as he appeared during our repast, was called aside, and I could +hear my own letter read and discussed by them. I could not help thinking +(within myself) whether this was a way to receive a countryman at the +Antipodes! No smile beamed upon their countenance; there were no +inquiries after news; in short, there was no touch of human sympathy, +such as we "of the world" feel at receiving an Englishman under our roof +in such a savage country as this! + +The chubby children who peeped at us from all corners, and the very +hearty appearance of their parents, plainly evidenced that theirs was an +excellent and thriving trade. We had a cold invitation to stay all night; +but this the number of our party entirely precluded; so they lent us +their boat to convey us to the Bay of Islands, a distance of about +twenty-five miles. + +As the night proved dark and stormy, and as our boat was crowded with +natives, our passage down the Kerikeri river became both disagreeable and +dangerous. The river being filled with rocks, some under, and others just +above the water, we were obliged to keep a good look-out. After +experiencing many alarms, we arrived safely at Kororareka beach about +midnight, where an Englishman of the name of Johnstone gave us a shelter +in his hut. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +In the morning we beheld two vessels at anchor in the harbour. The +Indian, whaler, of London, and the East India Company's ship Research; +which latter ship had been cruising in search of the wreck of the vessels +under the command of La Perouse, and had completely elucidated the +circumstances relating to that event. The Bay of Islands is surrounded by +lofty and picturesque hills, and is secured from all winds. It is full of +lovely coves, and a safe anchorage is to be found nearly all over it; +added to this, a number of navigable rivers are for ever emptying +themselves into the Bay, which is spotted with innumerable romantic +islands all covered with perpetual verdure. + +It is with peculiar interest that we look upon the spot where the +illustrious Cook cast anchor after his discovery of this Bay. Some +unhappy quarrels with the natives occasioned much blood to be shed on +both sides, and for a long time caused this island to be looked upon with +horror, and avoided by all Europeans. It was the courage and enterprise +of the crews of our South Sea Whalers who exhibited these interesting +islanders in their true character, and proved to the world that it was +quite as safe to anchor in the Bay of Islands as in the harbour of Port +Jackson. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +THE MASSACRE OF THE "BOYD." + + +Since the time of Cook, and other circumnavigators of that period, the +character of these people has undergone a thorough change. Then it was +necessary when a ship anchored, that the boarding nettings should be up, +and all the arms ready for immediate use. The principal object the chiefs +had in view seemed to be to lull the commanders into a fatal security, +then to rush upon them, seize their vessel, and murder all the crew! Too +often had they succeeded, and as often have they paid most dearly for +their treachery and cruelty. In the case of the ship Boyd, though they +attained their object, they were as completely punished for their +perfidy. From their ignorance of the nature of powder, and the use of a +magazine, they blew up the ship, and vast numbers of the natives were +destroyed. Besides this calamity, they brought down upon themselves the +vengeance of every vessel that visited these shores for a long period +afterwards. As the circumstances may not be generally known, Mr. Berry's +letter, relating the particulars of that melancholy, yet interesting +event, is here inserted:-- + + "Ship, City of Edinburgh, + "Lima, Oct. 20, 1810. + Sir,-- + + I am very sorry to have the painful task of introducing myself to + you, with an account of the loss of your ship Boyd, Captain + Thompson. + + Towards the end of last year I was employed in the Bay of + Islands, New Zealand, in procuring a cargo of spars for the Cape + of Good Hope. About the middle of December the natives brought me + an account of a ship's being taken at Whangaroa, a harbour about + fifty miles to the N.W. At first we were disposed to doubt the + truth of this report, but it every day became more probable, from + the variety of circumstances they informed us of; and which were + so connected as appeared impossible for them to invent. + Accordingly, about the end of the month, when we had finished our + cargo, although it was a business of some danger, I determined to + go round. + + "I set out with three armed boats: we experienced very bad + weather, and after a narrow escape were glad to return to the + ship. As we arrived in a most miserable condition, I had then + relinquished all idea of the enterprise; but having recruited my + strength and spirits, I was shocked at the idea of leaving any of + my countrymen in the hands of savages, and determined to make a + second attempt. We had this time better weather, and reached the + harbour without any difficulty. Whangaroa is formed as + follows:--First, a large outer bay, with an island at its + entrance; in the bottom of this bay is seen a narrow opening, + which appears terminated at the distance of a quarter of a mile; + but, upon entering it, it is seen to expand into two large + basins, at least as secure as any of the docks on the banks of + the Thames, and capable of containing (I think) the whole British + navy. We found the wreck of the Boyd in shoal water, at the top + of the harbour, a most melancholy picture of wanton mischief. The + natives had cut her cables, and towed her up the harbour till she + had grounded, and then set her on fire, and burnt her to the + water's edge. In her hold were seen the remains of her + cargo--coals, salted seal skins, and planks. Her guns, iron, + standards, etc., were lying on the top, having fallen in when her + decks were consumed. + + "The cargo must have been very valuable; but it appears that the + captain, anxious to make a better voyage, had come to that port + for the purpose of filling up with spars for the Cape of Good + Hope. + + "Not to tire you with the minutia of the business, I recovered + from the natives a woman, two children, and a boy of the name of + Davies, one of your apprentices, who were the only survivors. I + found also the accompanying papers, which, I hope, may prove of + service to you. I did all this by gentle measures, and you will + admit that bloodshed and revenge would have answered no good + purpose. The ship was taken the third morning after her arrival. + The captain had been rather too hasty in resenting some slight + theft. Early in the morning the ship was surrounded by a great + number of canoes, and many natives gradually insinuated + themselves on board. Tippahee, a chief of the Bay of Islands, and + who had been twice at Port Jackson, also arrived; he went into + the cabin, and, after paying his respects to the captain, begged + a little bread for his men; but the captain received him rather + slightingly, and desired him to go away, and not trouble him, as + he was busy. + + "The proud old savage (who had been a constant guest at the + Governor's table at Port Jackson) was highly offended at this + treatment, immediately left the cabin, and, after stamping a few + minutes on the deck, went into his canoe. After breakfast the + captain went on shore with four hands, and no other arms but his + fowling-piece. From the account of the savages, as soon as he + landed they rushed upon him; he had only time to fire his piece, + and it killed a child. As soon as the captain left the ship, + Tippahee (who remained alongside in his canoe) came again on + board. A number of sailors were repairing sails upon the quarter + deck, and the remainder were carelessly dispersed about, and + fifty of the natives were sitting on the deck. In a moment they + all started up, and each knocked his man on the head: a few ran + wounded below, and four or five escaped up the rigging, and in a + few seconds the savages had complete possession of the ship. The + boy Davies escaped into the hold, where he lay concealed for + several days, till they were fairly glutted with human blood, + when they spared his life. The woman says she was discovered by + an old savage, and that she moved him by her tears and embraces; + that he (being a subordinate chief) carried her to Tippahee, who + allowed him to spare her life. She says, that at this time the + deck was covered with human bodies, which they were employed in + cutting up; after which they exhibited a most horrid dance and + song in honour of their victory, and concluded by a hymn of + gratitude to their god. + + "Tippahee now took the speaking trumpet, and hailing the poor + wretches at the mast-head, told them that he was now captain, + and that they must in future obey his commands. He then ordered + them to unbend the sails, they readily complied; but when he + ordered them to come down they hesitated, but he enforced prompt + obedience by threatening to cut away the masts. When they came + down he received them with much civility, and told them he would + take care of them; he immediately ordered them into a canoe, and + sent them on shore. A few minutes after this the woman went on + shore with her deliverer. The first object that struck her view + was the dead bodies of these men, lying naked on the beach. As + soon as she landed a number of men started up, and marched + towards her with their patoo-patoos. A number of women ran + screaming betwixt them, covered her with their clothes, and by + tears and entreaties saved her life. + + "The horrid feasting on human flesh which followed would be too + shocking for description. The second mate begged his life at the + time of the general massacre; they spared him for a fortnight, + and then killed and eat him. I think if the captain had received + Tippahee with a little more civility, that he would have informed + him of his danger, and saved the ship; but that from being + treated in the manner I have mentioned, he entered into the plot + along with the others. + + "I assure you it has been a most unpleasant thing for me to write + about, and I could only have been induced to do it from a sense + of duty, and a desire to give you all the information in my + power, which I suppose may be of some use. + + "I am, Sir, + "Your obedient humble servant, + "ALEXANDER BERRY." + +Considering Mr. Berry's limited acquaintance with these islanders, and +the horror of the scene before him, his is a good and an impartial +account; but facts which have been obtained subsequently have exonerated +the natives to a certain extent. By repeated conversations I have held +with several chiefs who were engaged in this dreadful affair, and from +information I procured at Sydney, I have no doubt but that the Captain +himself was the most in fault. + +[Illustration: Whangaroa, Scene of the "Boyd" Massacre.] + +He was commissioned by the Government of New South Wales to land a native +chief named Philip at New Zealand, whom he subjected to a cruel and +impolitic punishment. This man, smarting from his stripes, and burning +with a desire to revenge his dishonourable treatment, excited all his +friends to the commission of that bloody massacre. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +THE FIRST SETTLEMENT AT KORORAREKA. + + +The tragic fate of the Boyd's crew is now fast sinking into oblivion; +and, like the islanders of Hawaii, after the murder of Cook, they seem to +wish to obliterate the remembrance of their disgraceful conduct by a kind +and friendly intercourse with our nation. The severe chastisement which +they have always received from us after a treacherous action, has proved +to them how little they gain by so debasing a line of conduct; and as +they are most anxious to possess many of our productions, they seem to +have come to a resolution to abandon their former system; which, if they +may not be sensible of the injustice of, they see is destructive to their +own interests; and now every chief is as solicitous for the safety of a +European vessel as he would have been formerly for its destruction. + +They have not only lost a portion of their ferocity, but also much of +their native simplicity of character, which, in all parts of the world, +is so highly interesting a study for the traveller. Their constant +intercourse with whalers, who are generally low, unpolished men, leaves +behind it a tinge of vulgarity, of which the native women retain the +largest portion. In many instances, they quite spoil their good looks, by +half adopting the European costume. Those who are living in the +retirement of their own villages have a natural ease and elegance of +manner, which they soon lose after their introduction to our rough +sailors. I have seen a party of very handsome girls, just landing from +one of the whalers, their beautiful forms hid under old greasy red or +checked shirts, generally put on with the hind parts before. In some +cases the sailors, knowing their taste for finery, bring out with them, +from London, old tawdry gowns, and fierce coloured ribands. And thus +equipped, they come on shore the most grotesque objects imaginable, each +highly delighted with her gaudy habiliments. + +Kororareka beach, where we took up our residence, seemed the general +place of rendezvous for all Europeans whom chance might bring into this +bay. At this time there were two large vessels lying at anchor within a +quarter of a mile of the shore, and I was informed there were sometimes +as many as twelve or thirteen. + +The spot is a most delightful one, being about three-quarters of a mile +in extent, sheltered by two picturesque promontories, and possessing a +fine circular, firm, sandy beach, on which there is seldom much surf, so +that boats can at all times land and haul up. Scattered amongst the +rushes and small bushes is seen a New Zealand village, which at first +landing is scarcely perceptible, the huts being so low. Some of them are +of English design, though of native workmanship. These are generally the +dwellings of some Europeans, who are of so doubtful a character that it +would be difficult to guess to what order of society they belonged +previous to their being transplanted amongst these savages. + +I found a respectable body of Scotch mechanics settled here, who came out +in the New Zealand Company's ship Rosanna, and who determined to remain +at Kororareka. Their persevering industry as yet has been crowned with +success, and they seem well pleased with the prospects before them. + +Here, these hardy sons of Britain are employed in both carrying on and +instructing the wondering savage in various branches of useful art. Here +the smith has erected his forge, and his sooty mansion is crowded by +curious natives, who voluntarily perform the hardest and most dirty work, +and consider themselves fully recompensed by a sight of his mysterious +labours, every portion of which fills them with astonishment. Here is +heard daily the sound of the sawpit, while piles of neat white planks +appear arranged on the beach. These laborious and useful Scotchmen +interfere with no one, and pursue successfully their industrious career, +without either requiring or receiving any assistance from Home. + +But there is another class of Europeans here, who are both useless and +dangerous, and these lower the character of the white people in the +estimation of the natives. These men are called "Beach Rangers," most of +whom have deserted from, or have been turned out of whalers for crimes, +for which, had they been taken Home and tried, they would have been +hanged; some few among them, having been too lazy to finish the voyage +they had begun, had deserted from their ships, and were then leading a +mean and miserable life amongst the natives. + +There is still a third class of our countrymen to be met with here, whose +downcast and sneaking looks proclaim them to be runaway convicts from New +South Wales. These unhappy men are treated with derision and contempt by +all classes; and the New Zealanders, being perfectly aware of their state +of degradation, refuse all intercourse with them. They are idle, +unprincipled, and vicious in the extreme, and are much feared in the Bay +of Islands; for when by any means they obtain liquor, they prove +themselves most dangerous neighbours. + +My friend Shand and myself were most comfortably situated. An intimate +friend of mine (Captain Duke, of the whaler The Sisters) had, in +consequence of ill-health, taken up his residence on shore while his +vessel completed her cruise. In his hut we found comfort and safety; and +from his information and advice we were enabled to avoid the advances of +all whom his experience had taught him were to be shunned. + +On terms of the closest intimacy, and with his hut adjoining that of my +friend Captain Duke, lived Shulitea[4] (or King George, as he styled +himself), a chief of great power, who controlled the whole of the +district where we were. We all felt grateful to him for his +manifestations of friendship, and at the same time were conscious of +enjoying a greater degree of security by his proximity. He was the first +chief who offered protection to "the white people," and he has never been +known to have broken his engagement. An unexpected and remarkable +instance of his adherence to their interests, in spite of temptation, +took place a few years since, which I deem worthy of relation here. + +The ship Brompton, in endeavouring to work out of the bay, by some +accident got on shore, and finally became a complete wreck. This fine +vessel, with a valuable cargo on board, lay helpless on the beach, and +the crew and passengers expected nothing less than plunder and +destruction. The natives from the interior, hearing of the circumstance, +hastened down in vast numbers to participate in the general pillage. But +King George summoned all his warriors to his aid, and with this party +placed himself between the wreck and those who came to plunder it. I was +informed by several who were present at the time, that, after declaring +that "not an article should be taken till himself and all his party were +destroyed," he advanced, and thus explained his reasons for protecting +the strangers and their property:-- + +"You" (said King George) "come from the interior; all of you think only +of what you can get, without considering the consequences, which, indeed, +are of little import to you, living, as you do, out of reach of the +reproaches and vengeance of the white men. But look how differently I am +situated. I live on the beach; this Bay is my residence; I invite the +white men to come and trade here under the promise of my protection; they +come; several years of profitable trading have passed between us. King +George, they say, is a good man; now an accident has befallen one of +their ships in my territory, what must King George do? Why, he _must_ +assist them; which he _will_ do, and defend them against everyone who +shall attempt to injure them." In consequence of this speech, and his +exertions, not a thing was taken from the wreck by the savages who had +collected for that purpose. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 4: The chief referred to by Mr. Earle as Shulitea, or King +George, was a noted Bay of Islands chief named Whareumu. He was killed in +a fight with the Hokianga tribes, in March, 1828. (See appendix.)] + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +MAORI NON-PROGRESSIVENESS. + + +This anecdote proves that King George and his people possessed feelings +of honour and generosity, which, if properly cultivated, might lead to +the most happy results. From the length of time these people have been +known to the Europeans, it might naturally be expected that great changes +would have taken place in their habits, manners, arts, and manufactures; +but this is not the case. Their huts are of the same diminutive +proportions as described by Captain Cook; their clothing and mats, their +canoes and paddles, are precisely the same as when that navigator +described them. When they can obtain English tools, they use them in +preference to their own; still their work is not better done. The only +material change that has taken place is in their mode of warfare. + +The moment the New Zealanders became acquainted with the nature of +firearms, their minds were directed but to one point, namely, to become +possessed of them. After many ingenious and treacherous attempts to +obtain these oft-coveted treasures, and which, for the most part, ended +in their defeat, they had recourse to industry, and determined to create +commodities which they might fairly barter for these envied muskets. +Potatoes were planted, hogs were reared, and flax prepared, not for their +own use or comfort, but to exchange with the Europeans for firearms. +Their plans succeeded; and they have now fairly possessed themselves of +those weapons, which at first made us so formidable in their eyes; and as +they are in constant want of fresh supplies of ammunition, I feel +convinced it will always be their wish to be on friendly terms with us, +for the purpose of procuring these desirable stores. I have not heard of +a single instance in which they have turned these arms against us, though +they are often grossly insulted. + +In their combats with each other, firearms are used with dreadful effect. +The whole soul of a New Zealander seems absorbed in the thoughts of war; +every action of his life is influenced by it; and to possess weapons +which give him such a decided superiority over those who have only their +native implements of offence, he will sacrifice everything. The value +attached by them to muskets, and their ceaseless desire to possess them, +will prove a sufficient security to foreigners who enter their harbours, +or remain on their coasts; as I know, from experience, that the New +Zealanders will rather put up with injuries than run the risk of +offending those who manufacture and barter with them such inestimable +commodities. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +A MISSION SETTLEMENT. + + +A few days after my arrival in the Bay, I crossed to the opposite side, +to visit the Church missionary settlement, and to deliver a letter of +introduction I had to one of the members. Here, on a beautiful bank, with +a delightful beach in front, and the entrance of the bay open to them, +the clear and blue expanse of water speckled over with fertile islands, +reside these comfortable teachers of the Gospel. The name they have given +this spot is "Marsden Vale." They very soon gave us to understand they +did not wish for our acquaintance, and their coldness and inhospitality +(I must acknowledge) created in my mind a thorough dislike to them. The +object of the mission, as it was first planned, might have been attained, +and might have proved highly beneficial to the New Zealanders; but as it +is now conducted, no good result can be expected from it. Any man of +common sense must agree with me, that a savage can receive but little +benefit from having the abstruse points of the Gospel preached to him, if +his mind is not prepared to receive them. This is the plan adopted here; +and nothing will convince these enthusiasts that it is wrong, or induce +them to change it for one more agreeable to the dictates of reason. + +Upon inquiring who and what these men were, I found that the greater part +of them were hardy mechanics (not well-educated clergymen), whom the +benevolent and well-intentioned people of England had sent out in order +to teach the natives the importance of _different trades_--a most +judicious arrangement, and which ought to be the foundation of all +missions. What could be a more gratifying sight than groups of these +athletic savages, toiling at the anvil or the saw; erecting for +themselves substantial dwellings; thus leading them by degrees to know +and to appreciate the comforts resulting from peaceful, laborious, and +useful occupations? Then, while they felt sincere gratitude for services +rendered them, at their leisure hours, and on certain days, _these_ +missionaries should attempt to expound to them, in as simple a manner as +possible, the nature of revealed religion! + +In New Zealand, the "mechanic" missionary only carries on his trade till +he has every comfort around him--his house finished, his garden fenced, +and a strong stockade enclosing all, to keep off the "pagan" savages. +This done, then commences the easy task of preaching. They collect a few +ragged urchins of natives, whom they teach to read and write their own +language--the English tongue being forbidden; and when these children +return to their families, they are despised by them, as being effeminate +and useless. + +I once saw a sturdy blacksmith in the prime of life, sitting in the midst +of a group of savages, attempting to expound to them the mysteries of our +holy redemption--perplexing his own brains, as well as those of his +auditors, with the most incomprehensible and absurd opinions. How much +better would he have been employed in teaching them how to weld a piece +of iron, or to make a nail! + +What causes much disapprobation here, is the contemptuous manner in which +they treat their own countrymen, as they receive most of them on the +outside of their stockade fence. + +On our return from Marsden Vale, our savage friends laughed heartily at +us. They had warned us of the reception we should meet with; and their +delight at seeing us again formed a strange contrast to that of their +Christian teachers, whose inhospitable dwellings we determined never to +reenter. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +A VISIT FROM HONGI. + + +A few days after my visit to the missionaries, while we were busily +employed in constructing our huts, assisted by about fifty natives, on a +sudden a great commotion took place amongst them. Each left his work and +ran to his hut, and immediately returned armed with both musket and +cartouch box: apparently all the arms in the village were mustered, and +all seemed ready for immediate use. On inquiring into the cause of all +these war-like preparations, I was informed that Hongi and his chief men +were crossing the bay in several large war canoes; and though he was +considered as a friend and ally, yet, as he was a man of such desperate +ambition, and consummate cunning, it was considered necessary to receive +him under arms, which he might take either as a compliment, or as a proof +of how well they were aware of the guest they were receiving. + +This man, Hongi, was a most extraordinary character, and a person I had +long had a great curiosity to see, his daring and savage deeds having +often been the subject of conversation in New South Wales. In his own +country he was looked upon as invulnerable and invincible. In the year +1821 he had visited England, during which he had been honoured by having +a personal interview with George the Fourth, and had received from His +Majesty several valuable presents; amongst others, were a superb suit of +chain armour, and a splendid double-barrelled gun. From possessing these +arms, so far superior to any of his neighbours, he looked upon himself +as impossible to be conquered, and commenced a career of warfare and +destruction on all his enemies, and nearly exterminated them. His friends +called him "a god," and his enemies feared him as "a devil." Last year, +Hongi made war upon, and totally annihilated, the tribe who had fifteen +years previously attacked and murdered the crew of the Boyd. He had long +determined to take revenge for that treacherous action, as he always +styled himself "the friend of the English." After this, he removed his +residence, and took possession of the conquered district. But in this his +last battle he had to fight without his invulnerable coat of mail, his +slaves having stolen it and gone over with it to the enemy. His people +were now confirmed in their superstition respecting its being proof +against shot, by his having received during the combat a bullet in the +breast, from the effects of which he is fast sinking into the grave. His +companions related the following extraordinary anecdote concerning him +after he received this wound, which proves his great presence of mind. + +His party were retreating, and the enemy were charging him vigorously; +Hongi stood alone when he received the bullet; he did not fall +immediately, and the enemy were eagerly running up to despatch him, when +he roused all his energies, and shouted aloud for the two hundred chiefs, +who lay concealed, to rush forward and fall on. The foe, hearing this, +paused, when about a dozen chiefs, and indeed, as Hongi well knew, all +that he had, suddenly made their appearance. This caused a panic; they +turned about; the pursued became the pursuers, and nearly the whole tribe +were destroyed. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +INTERVIEW WITH THE GREAT MAORI CONQUEROR. + + +He landed about a mile from the village, and we lost no time in procuring +an interpreter, with whom we went instantly to pay our respects to this +celebrated conqueror. + +We found him and his party; his slaves preparing their morning repast. +The scene altogether was highly interesting. In a beautiful bay, +surrounded by high rocks and overhanging trees, the chiefs sat in mute +contemplation, their arms piled up in regular order on the beach. Hongi, +not only from his high rank (but in consequence of his wound being +toboo'd, or rendered holy), sat apart from the rest. Their richly +ornamented war canoes were drawn up on the strand; some of the slaves +were unlading stores, others were kindling fires. To me it almost seemed +to realise some of the passages of Homer, where he describes the wanderer +Ulysses and his gallant band of warriors. We approached the chief, and +paid our respects to him. He received us kindly, and with a dignified +composure, as one accustomed to receive homage. His look was emaciated; +but so mild was the expression of his features, that he would have been +the last man I should have imagined accustomed to scenes of bloodshed and +cruelty. But I soon remarked, that when he became animated in +conversation, his eyes sparkled with fire, and their expression changed, +demonstrating that it only required his passions to be roused to exhibit +him under a very different aspect. His wife and daughter were permitted +to sit close to him, to administer to his wants, no others being allowed +so to do, on account of his taboo. + +He was arrayed in a new blanket, which completely enveloped his figure, +leaving exposed his highly-tattooed face, and head profusely covered with +long, black, curling hair, adorned with a quantity of white feathers. He +was altogether a very fine study; and, with his permission, I made a +sketch of him, and also one including the whole group. Finding we were +newcomers, he asked us a variety of questions, and, among others, our +opinion of his country. His remarks were judicious and sensible, and he +seemed much pleased with our admiration of his territory. I produced a +bottle of wine that I had brought with me, and his wife supplied him with +a few glasses, which seemed to revive and animate him. + +We were then invited to join him in a trip in one of his canoes, in which +was placed a bed for him to recline upon; his wife seated herself close +to him, while his daughter, a very pretty, interesting girl about fifteen +years of age, took a paddle in her hand, which she used with the greatest +dexterity. I took the liberty of presenting her with a bracelet, with +which she seemed highly delighted; when Hongi, perceiving that I was in a +giving mood, pointed to his beard, and asked me for a razor. Fortunately, +I had put one in my pocket on setting out, and I now presented it to +him, by which gifts we continued on terms of great sociability and +friendship. After a pleasant cruise with this (to us) extraordinary +family, and contriving to make ourselves pretty well understood, we +returned about the close of the day, and landed at the bay. All the +natives were much delighted at our confidence in them, and we were +equally gratified by their hospitality. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +A MAORI WELCOME. + + +I was much amused with the punctilios used in the visit of ceremony paid +to King George. Hongi, accompanied by about a dozen of his chiefs, +advanced towards our settlement, leaving their guns and hatchets behind +them; as they approached, all our tribe discharged their pieces in the +air. When they met, all rubbed noses (a ceremony never to be dispensed +with on formal occasions). They were then conducted by King George to his +huts on the beach, and in the enclosure in front of them the warriors +squatted on the ground. Hongi, being tabooed, or under the immediate +protection of their Atua, or God, still sat apart. Then the mother of +George, called Tururo, or the Queen, and who is regarded quite as a sybil +by the whole tribe, approached Hongi with the greatest respect and +caution, and seated herself some paces from his feet. She then began, +with a most melancholy cadence (her eyes streaming with tears and fixed +upon the ground), the song of welcome. All their meetings of ceremony or +friendship begin with the shedding of copious floods of tears; and as +Hongi's visit was such an unhoped for and unexpected honour, so much +greater in proportion was the necessity for their lamentations. This +woeful song lasted half an hour, and all the assembly were soon in tears; +and though at first I was inclined to turn it into ridicule, I was soon +in the same state myself. The pathetic strain, and the scene altogether, +was most impressive. As the song proceeded, I was informed of the nature +of the subject, which was a theme highly calculated to affect all +present. She began by complimenting the wounded warrior, deploring the +incurable state of his wound, and regretting that God was wanting him, +and was about so soon to take him from his friends! Then she recounted +some of his most celebrated deeds of valour, naming and deploring the +number of his friends who had fallen bravely in the wars, and lamenting +that the enemies who had killed them were still living! This part seemed +to affect them powerfully; and when Tururo ceased her song (being quite +exhausted) they all rose, thus demonstrating their respect and +approbation. + +This was followed by a general attack upon the good things King George +had prepared for them. The slaves came flocking in, bearing baskets of +hot kumaras, potatoes, and fish. I observed their tears had not spoiled +their appetites; they ate voraciously. After having done great honour to +the feast, they all started on their feet for a dance, which lasted a +long while, and with which they concluded the evening. + +The dances of all savage nations are beautiful, but those of the New +Zealanders partake also of the horrible. The regularity of their +movements is truly astonishing; and the song, which always accompanies a +dance, is most harmonious. They soon work themselves up to a pitch of +frenzy; the distortions of their face and body are truly dreadful, and +fill the mind with horror. Love and war are the subjects of their songs +and dances; but the details of the latter passion are by far the most +popular among them. I was astonished to find that their women mixed in +the dance indiscriminately with the men, and went through all those +horrid gestures with seemingly as much pleasure as the warriors +themselves. + +The next morning I was awakened, at daybreak, by the most dismal sounds I +had ever heard. I started up, and found it proceeded from the tribes +parting with each other. They had divided themselves into little parties, +each forming a circle, and were crying most piteously, and cutting their +flesh as a cook would score pork for roasting. On such occasions each is +armed with a sharp shell, or, if he can possibly obtain so valuable a +prize, a piece of a broken glass bottle. All were streaming with tears +and blood, while Hongi and his friends embarked in their large and +richly-ornamented canoes, and sailed from our beach. After his departure, +I soon discovered that, notwithstanding their apparent affection, King +George and his friends were most happy their visitors had left them; and +that it was more the dread of Hongi's power, than love for him, that +induced them to treat him with such respect and homage. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +EXCURSIONS IN THE INTERIOR. + + +I made several excursions into the interior, and each confirmed me in the +good opinion I had formed of the natives. I felt myself quite safe +amongst them. There is a great peculiarity in rambling through this +country; namely, the total absence of quadrupeds. There are abundance of +birds, which are so numerous at times as almost to darken the air--many +of them possessing very sweet notes; and wild ducks, teal, etc., cover +the various streams. Wherever I went I did not discover any grass, almost +every part being covered either with fern or flax; the former yielding +the natives their principal article of food, and the latter their +clothing. To this dearth of animals may be attributed the chief cause of +their ferocity and propensity to cannibalism. + +In most uncivilised countries the natives use their arms against the wild +animals of the forest. The dangers and difficulties they encounter in +overcoming them form a kind of prelude to war, and perfect them in the +use of their weapons. The rifle of the North American Indian would never +be so much dreaded did he not depend upon its produce for his +subsistence. I have myself (during my travels through North America) had +many opportunities of witnessing the certain aim they take both with the +arrow and the bullet; while those in the southern parts of that vast +continent, who depend on taking the wild cattle, acquire, by constant +practice, an equal dexterity with the _lassoo_, which those who have not +witnessed it could scarcely imagine possible. The New Zealander, while +handling a musket, is quite in a state of trepidation; and though it is +his darling weapon he seems always afraid of it, and is never sure of his +aim till he is quite close to his object. I have mentioned this fact to +several Europeans who had accompanied various tribes to battle, and they +all informed me they made a sad bungling use of the musket; their aim +would be surer if they had large and ferocious animals to hunt or contend +with. There is another circumstance that operates against their acquiring +skill in the use of the gun: they are so fond of cleaning, scrubbing, and +taking them to pieces, that in a short time the locks become loose, the +screws are injured, and they are soon rendered entirely useless, to the +great surprise and dismay of their owners, who are constantly pestering +the Europeans by bringing them _sick_ muskets (as they call them) to look +at, and put to rights, and are quite surprised that we "cannot make them +well again." They cannot be made to comprehend that every white man does +not know how to make a musket, or, at least, to repair it. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +ENTERTAINED BY MAORI WOMEN. + + +On the 24th November we took our departure from the bay, as we had to +return to Hokianga, where we had left our brig; and it was only under a +promise of making a speedy return, and remaining longer with them, that +our savage friends would suffer us to leave them. We expected to reach +the Kerikeri River before night; but in this we were disappointed. It at +length became quite dark; and the ebb tide making against us, rendered +further advance impossible. We had to seek some place of shelter for the +night, and not a hut was visible. While we were debating on what was best +to be done, we observed a light from the shore, and made for it; but, it +being low water, our boat stuck fast in the slime long before we reached +the banks; we were, consequently, obliged to wade knee-deep through the +slippery mud. We soon discovered a party of women sitting round a fire +made in the midst of the swamp. They had come here for the purpose of +procuring shell-fish; and as they are never very fastidious about shelter +or dry beds, they had determined (according to their usual custom) to +pass the night where they had been occupied during the day. This sort of +bivouac I found excessively uncomfortable. The moment we were seated the +water began to ooze out an inch or two all round us. We sought in vain +for a dry place, for we were enveloped in darkness, and surrounded by +rushes and flags six or seven feet high; but, being very much fatigued, +we slept, notwithstanding the misery of a wet bed, with a cloud of fog +for curtains. I did not wake till one of the women gave me a good shake, +and informed me that the day was well up. They had prepared us a +breakfast of hot shell-fish, which they had caught the preceding day, and +they all seemed delighted by our eating heartily of them. As we had some +biscuits in our boat, we sent for them, and gave our "fair founders of +the feast" a share; and we were all very sociable and merry. When we left +them, as it was again low water, the women carried us to our boat, and +took their leave of us amidst peals of laughter. This was another proof +to me that the English are quite safe, though travelling unguarded, +amongst these people. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +LOADING SPARS AT HOKIANGA. + + +About nine the next morning we reached the Kerikeri River; and, it being +Sunday, the members of the mission met us on landing, and used all their +endeavours to prevent our travelling on that day; but, independent of the +urgent necessity of our reaching Hokianga, the captain of our vessel, who +was with us, being particularly anxious to return on board, we continued +our journey, and at night came to a bivouac in a dense wood, so that we +now had the luxury of stretching our weary limbs on dry ground. The next +day, as we journeyed towards the river, we fell in with all our old +friends, who inquired into the particulars of our adventures, and seemed +highly delighted at our return. + +We found "all right" on board the brig; but as she was chartered to go to +Tongataboo I and my friend Shand determined to remain at New Zealand till +her return. Our principal difficulty seemed to be which side of the +island we should make choice of for a dwelling-place. When it became +known to the natives that we intended to remain with them, several chiefs +came and offered us their protection; and each would have built us a +house, but we preferred making our sojourn at the Bay of Islands. We were +often at a loss how to evade the kind importunities of our savage hosts +without giving them offence. "Is not our country as good as +theirs?"--"Are you not as safe amongst us?"--"Are we not as willing and +as capable of protecting you as Shulitea?" These were the arguments they +used; and, finally, we were obliged to inform them that we had a friend +and countryman (Captain Duke) settled on the other side, who was +preparing a house for our reception. On being informed of this +circumstance they consented to part with us, though evidently with great +reluctance. + +While we lay here the ship Harmony, of London, Captain Middleton, arrived +from Sydney for a cargo of spars. So large a vessel entering the port put +the whole district into commotion; and when the chiefs understood the +nature of her wants, and had seen the fine double-barrelled guns and +store of powder to be given as payment for the wished-for freight, they +hastened to the woods, and the axe was soon laid to the roots of the +trees. I saw them pursuing their laborious employ with alacrity. In a few +days a sufficient number of fine logs came floating down the river to +load the ship, and they were all cleared in a workmanlike manner, ready +to stow away. The chief things to induce these people to work are +firearms and powder; these are two stimulants to their industry which +never fail. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +DEATH OF A GREAT CHIEF. + + +A few days after our return to Hokianga we received intelligence that A +Rowa, the father of Mooetara, and the eldest chief in the district, was +dead. These deaths, when they occur among men of rank, are generally +accompanied by some horrible scenes of butchery among their slaves--a +common custom among all savages, but practised here (I was informed) with +peculiar cruelty. We went on shore to witness the ceremony of A Rowa's +lying in state, hoping at the same time that our presence might induce +them to dispense with some of those barbarous cruelties which generally +accompany their funeral rites. We had, indeed, every reason to think we +had conjectured rightly, for nothing of the kind took place; which was +considered by all as a circumstance somewhat remarkable. A great +concourse of savages had assembled all round the village of the deceased +chief, and there was a tremendous firing of muskets, but no particular +marks of grief. I spoke to Mooetara, and requested, as a favour, if it +were not breaking through their established rules, that he would conduct +me to the body of his father. He accordingly led me to the outside of the +village; and under a rude hut (constructed for the purpose) lay the body +of the deceased chief, closely covered up with mats, leaving only part of +the face and head exposed; in his hair was stuck a profusion of long +white feathers, by way of ornament. Two women (whom I understood were his +wives) sat close to the corpse; they were painted all over with red +ochre, and seemed to perform the parts of chief mourners. These kept up a +low moaning noise, and occasionally whisked off the flies from the face +of the deceased. The women, the corpse, the hut, and the ground for some +space round them, were all strictly tapued. Some bundles of fish, and +some calabashes filled with oil, were left close by the body, intended +for his consumption during his passage to the next world. + +I imagine that one reason of no outrage having been committed during this +solemn occasion was our brig being on the point of sailing, and previous +to her departure a great deal of traffic was expected to be carried on +with the natives, for there was still a considerable quantity of muskets +undisposed of; and I think, in this instance, avarice overcame filial +affection--the minds of the chief's family being so intent upon obtaining +good bargains, that they had not time to sit and mourn over their +departed parent, nor to work themselves up into a paroxysm of passion +sufficiently violent to cause them to murder their slaves. This afforded +me a convincing proof that as soon as they are occupied by commerce, or +the useful arts, their barbarous rites will gradually be discontinued, +and will speedily cease altogether. + +Our brig having sailed, we were again alone with these wild yet +interesting people. We expected our stay might be about six months, and +had provided a stock-in-trade, consisting of a barrel of powder, half a +dozen muskets, some fish-hooks, and a quantity of tobacco. Everything we +possessed we delivered into the hands of the natives, who accounted to +us for the stock thus entrusted to their management with the most +scrupulous exactness. Nothing can be fairer than their mode of bartering +with the Europeans; the prices are fixed; ten large hogs, or 120 baskets +of potatoes (about a ton and a-half), are given for a musket; for small +articles, such as fish, Indian corn, or fruits, the ready money are +fish-hooks and tobacco. As we were now about to become inhabitants of New +Zealand, it became necessary that we should be well acquainted with the +particulars of their methods of "doing business," and that we should +apply ourselves diligently to the study of the language, which we +acquired much more readily than I had anticipated. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +BRUTAL MURDER OF A WIFE. + + +A few days after the departure of the brig I witnessed a specimen of +their summary method of executing justice. A chief, resident in the +village, had proof of the infidelity of one of his wives; and, being +perfectly sure of her guilt, he took his patoo-patoo (or stone hatchet) +and proceeded to his hut, where this wretched woman was employed in +household affairs. Without mentioning the cause of his suspicion, or once +upbraiding her, he deliberately aimed a blow at her head, which killed +her on the spot; and, as she was a slave, he dragged the body to the +outside of the village, and there left it to be devoured by the dogs. The +account of this transaction was soon brought to us, and we proceeded to +the place to request permission to bury the body of the murdered woman, +which was immediately granted. Accordingly, we procured a couple of +slaves, who assisted us to carry the corpse down to the beach, where we +interred it in the most decent manner we could. + +This was the second murder I was very nearly a witness to since my +arrival; and the indifference with which each had been spoken of induced +me to believe that such barbarities were events of frequent occurrence; +yet the manners of all seemed kind and gentle towards each other; but +infidelity in a wife is never forgiven here; and, in general, if the +lover can be taken, he also is sacrificed along with the adulteress. +Truth obliges me to confess that, notwithstanding these horrors staring +them in the face, they will, if opportunity offers, indulge in an +intrigue. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +ANOTHER JOURNEY TO BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +As there were two roads across to the Bay of Islands, and I was anxious +to see as much of the country as possible, I determined that my second +journey should be by the longest route. I set off, accompanied only by a +native boy to carry a small portmanteau and to serve me as a guide. As, +on my former journey, we travelled many miles through thick tangled +forests, fatiguing beyond description. In the midst of our toilsome +progress, night frequently overtook us; then, by means of my +fowling-piece, I procured a light, the boy made a fire, and we passed the +night in this vast wilderness, far from the habitation of any human +being! At daybreak we resumed our journey, and at length (about ten +o'clock) we emerged from the wood, and entered upon extensive plains. +These were not naked deserts, similar to the ones I had passed through on +my former route, but were diversified with bush and brake, with a number +of small villages scattered in various directions. At mid-day we arrived +at what in New Zealand is considered a town of great size and importance, +called Ty-a-my. It is situated on the sides of a beautiful hill, the top +surmounted by a pa, in the midst of a lonely and extensive plain, covered +with plantations of Indian corn, Kumara and potatoes. This is the +principal inland settlement, and, in point of quiet beauty and +fertility, it equalled any place I had ever seen in the various countries +I have visited. Its situation brought forcibly to my remembrance the +scenery around Canterbury. + +We found the village totally deserted, all the inhabitants being employed +in their various plantations; they shouted to us as we passed, thus +bidding us welcome, but did not leave their occupations to receive us. To +view the cultivated parts of this country from an eminence a person might +easily imagine himself in a civilised land; for miles around the village +of Ty-a-my nothing but beautiful green fields present themselves to the +eye. The exact rows in which they plant their Indian corn would do credit +to a first-rate English farmer, and the way in which they prepare the +soil is admirable. The greatest deficiency which I observed in the +country around me was the total absence of fences; and this defect +occasions the natives a great deal of trouble, which might very easily be +avoided. Hogs are the principal part of their wealth, with which, at all +times, they can traffic with vessels touching at their ports. These +animals, consequently, are of the utmost importance to them; but during +the growth of their crops, the constant watching the hogs require to keep +them out of the plantations consumes more time than would effectually +fence in their whole country; but I have no doubt, as they already begin +to follow our advice and adopt our plans, they will soon see the utility +of fencing in their land. I have at various times held many conversations +with different chiefs on this subject, all of whom have acknowledged the +propriety of so doing. + +A few miles after leaving this beautiful village we came to a spot +covered with heaps of cinders and hillocks of volcanic matter. I found +all these hillocks small craters, but none of them, burning; and for +miles our road lay through ashes and lava. These fires must have been +extinguished many ages since, as there is not the slightest tradition +among any of the natives of their ever having been burning. + +After passing over this lava, our journey lay through a very swampy +country, intersected with streams. I got completely wearied with +stripping to wade through them, so that at length I plunged in clothes +and all. At the close of a most fatiguing day's march, we arrived in +sight of the bay, having travelled over an extent of about fifty miles +since the morning! No canoe being in sight, and we being too distant to +make signals to our brig, we had to pass another night in bivouac on a +part of the beach called Waitangi; and as it did not rain we slept pretty +comfortably. The next morning I procured a canoe, and went on board our +vessel. + +The day following the brig took her final departure from New Zealand, and +we bade farewell to Captain Kent. We now formally placed ourselves under +the protection of King George, who seemed highly pleased with his charge; +and in a few days three good houses were ready for our reception--one for +ourselves, a second for our stores, and a third for our servants. But our +pleasant prospects were soon obscured by a circumstance totally +unexpected, which placed us in a most critical situation, and which we +had every reason to fear would lead to our total destruction. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +VISIT OF A WAR PARTY. + + +I was roused one morning at daybreak by my servant running in with the +intelligence that a great number of war canoes were crossing the bay. As +King George had told us but the evening before that he expected a visit +from Ta-ri-ah, a chief of the tribe called Ngapuhis, whose territory lay +on the opposite side of the bay, and given us to understand that Ta-ri-ah +was a man not to be trusted, and therefore feared some mischief might +happen if he really came, the sight of these war canoes naturally caused +us considerable alarm, and we sincerely wished that the visit was over. + +We dressed ourselves with the utmost expedition, and walked down to the +beach. The landing of these warriors was conducted with a considerable +degree of order, and could I have divested myself of all ideas of danger +I should have admired the sight excessively. All our New Zealand +friends--the tribe of Shulitea--were stripped naked, their bodies were +oiled, and all were completely armed; their muskets were loaded, their +cartouch boxes were fastened round their waists, and their patoo-patoos +were fixed to their wrists. Their hair was tied up in a tight knot at the +top of their heads, beautifully ornamented with feathers of the +albatross. As the opposite party landed, ours all crouched on the ground, +their eyes fixed on their visitors, and perfectly silent. When the +debarkation was completed I observed the chief, Ta-ri-ah, put himself at +their head, and march towards us with his party formed closely and +compactly, and armed with muskets and paddles. When they came very near +they suddenly stopped. Our party continued still mute, with their +firelocks poised ready for use. For the space of a few minutes all was +still, each party glaring fiercely on the other; and they certainly +formed one of the most beautiful and extraordinary pictures I had ever +beheld. The foreground was formed by a line of naked savages, each +resting on one knee, with musket advanced, their gaze fixed on the +opposite party, their fine, broad, muscular backs contrasting with the +dark foliage in front, and catching the gleam of the rising sun. The +strangers were clothed in the most grotesque manner imaginable--some +armed, some naked, some with long beards, others were painted all over +with red ochre; every part of each figure was quite still, except the +rolling and glaring of their eyes on their opponents. The background was +formed by the beach, and a number of their beautiful war canoes dancing +on the waves; while, in the distance, the mountains on the opposite side +of the bay were just tinged with the varied and beautiful colours of the +sun, then rising in splendour from behind them. + +The stillness of this extraordinary scene did not last long. The Ngapuhis +commenced a noisy and discordant song and dance, yelling, jumping, and +making the most hideous faces. This was soon answered by a loud shout +from our party, who endeavoured to outdo the Ngapuhis in making horrible +distortions of their countenances; then succeeded another dance from our +visitors, after which our friends made a rush, and in a sort of rough +joke set them running. Then all joined in a pell-mell sort of encounter, +in which numerous hard blows were given and received; then all the party +fired their pieces in the air, and the ceremony of landing was thus +deemed completed. They then approached each other, and began rubbing +noses; and those who were particular friends cried and lamented over each +other. + +The slaves now commenced the labour of making fires to cook the morning +meal, while the chiefs, squatting down, formed a ring, or, rather, an +oblong circle, on the ground; then one at a time rose up, and made long +speeches, which they did in a manner peculiar to themselves. The speaker, +during his harangue, keeps running backwards and forwards within the +oblong space, using the most violent but appropriate gesticulation; so +expressive, indeed, of the subject on which he is speaking, that a +spectator who does not understand their language can form a tolerable +idea as to what the affair is then under debate. The orator is never +interrupted in his speech; but, when he finishes and sits down, another +immediately rises up and takes his place, so that all who choose have an +opportunity of delivering their sentiments, after which the assembly +breaks up. + +Though the meeting of these hostile tribes had thus ended more amicably +than King George and his party could have expected, it was easily to be +perceived that the Ngapuhis were determined on executing some atrocity or +depredations before their return; they accordingly pretended to recollect +some old offence committed by the English settlers at the other end of +the beach. They proceeded thither, and first attacked and broke open the +house of a blacksmith, and carried off every article it contained. They +then marched to the residence of an English captain (who was in England), +and plundered it of everything that could be taken away, and afterwards +sent word they intended to return to our end of the beach. Our fears were +greatly increased by finding that our friends were not sufficiently +strong to protect us from the superior force of the Ngapuhis, and our +chief, George, being himself (we supposed) conscious of his inability, +had left us to depend upon our own resources. + + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +BURNED OUT OF HOUSE AND HOME. + + +We now called a council of war of all the Europeans settled here; and it +was unanimously resolved that we should protect and defend our houses and +property, and fortify our position in the best way we could. Captain Duke +had in his possession four twelve-pounders, and these we brought in front +of the enclosure in which our huts were situated, and were all entirely +employed in loading them with round and grape shot, and had made them all +ready for action, when, to our consternation and dismay, we found we had +a new and totally unexpected enemy to contend with. By some accident one +of our houses was in flames. Our situation was now perilous in the +extreme. The buildings, the work of English carpenters, were constructed +of dry rushes and well-seasoned wood, and this was one of a very +respectable size, and we had hoped, in a very few days, would be finished +fit for our removing into. + +For some seconds we stood in mute amazement, not knowing to which point +to direct our energies. As the cry of "fire" was raised, groups of +natives came rushing from all directions upon our devoted settlement, +stripping off their clothes, and yelling in the most discordant pitch of +voice. I entered the house, and brought out one of my trunks, but on +attempting to return a second time I found it filled with naked savages, +tearing everything to pieces, and carrying away whatever they could lay +their hands upon. The fierce raging of the flames, the heat from the +fire, the yells of the men, and the shrill cries of the women, formed, +altogether, a horrible combination; added to all this was the +mortification of seeing all our property carried off in different +directions, without the least possibility of our preventing it. The tribe +of the Ngapuhis (who, when the fire began, were at the other end of the +beach) left their operations in that quarter and poured down upon us to +share in the general plunder. Never shall I forget the countenance of the +chief, as he rushed forward at the head of his destroying crew! He was +called "The Giant," and he was well worthy of the name, being the tallest +and largest man I had ever seen; he had an immense bushy black beard, and +grinned exultingly when he saw the work of destruction proceeding with +such rapidity, and kept shouting loudly to his party to excite them to +carry off all they could. + +A cask containing seventy gallons of rum now caught fire and blew up with +a terrible explosion; and, the wind freshening considerably, huge volumes +of smoke and flame burst out in every direction. Two of our houses were +so completely enveloped that we had given up all hopes of saving them. +The third, which was a beautifully carved tapued one, some little +distance from the others, and which we had converted into a store and +magazine, was now the only object of our solicitude and terror. For, +besides the valuable property of various kinds which were deposited +within it, it contained several barrels of gunpowder! It was in vain we +attempted to warn the frantic natives to retire from the vicinity of this +danger. At length we persuaded about a dozen of the most rational to +listen while we explained to them the cause of our alarm; and they +immediately ascended to the roof, where, with the utmost intrepidity and +coolness, they kept pouring water over the thatch, thus lessening the +probability of an immediate explosion. About this time we noticed the +reappearance of King George, which circumstance rekindled our hopes. He +was armed with a thick stick, which he laid heavily on the backs of such +of his subjects as were running away with our property, thus forcing them +to relinquish their prizes, and to lay them down before his own mansion, +where all was safe. By this means a great deal was recollected. The fire +was now nearly extinguished; but our two really tolerably good houses +were reduced to a heap of smoking ruins, and the greater part of what +belonged to us was taken away by the Ngapuhis. + +This calamity had made us acquainted with another of their barbarous +customs, which is, whenever a misfortune happens to a community, or an +individual, every person, even the friends of his own tribe, fall upon +and strip him of all he has remaining. As an unfortunate fish, when +struck by a harpoon, is instantly surrounded and devoured by his +companions, so in New Zealand, when a chief is killed, his former friends +plunder his widow and children; and they, in revenge, ill-use and even +murder their slaves--thus one misfortune gives birth to various +cruelties. During the fire, our allies proved themselves the most adroit +and active thieves imaginable, though previously to that event we had +never lost an article, although everything we possessed was open to them. + +When we questioned them about our property, they frankly told us where it +was; and, after some difficulty in settling the amount of its ransom, we +got most of our things back again, with the exception of such as had been +carried off by the Ngapuhis. + +Upon the cruelty of this custom I shall make no comments. Probably I +should have remained in ignorance of this savage law, had I not had the +misfortune to become its victim. + +By redeeming from the natives what they had purloined from the fire, we +had restored to us some of our boxes, desks, and clothes; but all our +little comforts towards housekeeping were irretrievably lost. When the +fire was over we received a visit from one of the missionaries, who made +us a cold offer of assistance. We accepted a little tea, sugar and some +few articles of crockery from them; but, although they knew we stood +there houseless, amongst a horde of savages, they never offered us the +shelter of their roofs. I am very sure that had the calamity befallen +them, we should immediately have offered our huts, and shared with them +everything we possessed. Here was an opportunity of practically showing +the "pagans" (as they termed the New Zealanders) the great Christian +doctrine of "doing to others as we would they should do unto us." I must +acknowledge I was sometimes mortified at being obliged to sleep (three of +us huddled up close together) in a small New Zealand hut, filled with +filth and vermin of all kinds, while at only two miles' distance from us +stood a neat village, abounding in every comfort that a bountiful British +public could provide; and we, members of that community, and, indeed, +partly contributors to the funds for its support. + +The high state of excitement into which the savages had been thrown by +the late conflagration gradually subsided, and as we had escaped the +dreaded calamity of our magazine blowing up, we began to look with +calmness on our desolate condition, and draw comfort from thinking how +much worse we might have been circumstanced than we then were. I hope our +distress may prove a benefit to future sojourners in this country, by +showing them the great importance of forming a proper magazine for +powder. The agonies I suffered in contemplating the destruction which six +barrels of powder, each of an hundredweight, would cause amongst a mob of +several hundred naked savages, it is impossible to imagine! + +King George, as well as all his people, were most anxious to build us a +new habitation entirely themselves. They requested us to give them the +dimensions of the various dwellings, and said we should have no further +trouble about them. A party accordingly proceeded to the bush to collect +materials. They first formed the skeleton of a cottage containing three +rooms, with slight sticks, firmly tied together with strips of flax. +While this was in progress, another party was collecting rushes (which +grow plentifully in the neighbourhood, called Ra-poo). These they spread +in the sun for twenty-four hours, when they considered them sufficiently +dry. They then thatched every part of the house, which for neatness and +strength was equal to anything I had ever seen. The doors and windows we +employed our carpenter to make, these being luxuries quite beyond the +comprehension of the natives. We were thus tolerably well lodged again; +and our time passed on tranquilly, almost every day developing some fresh +trait of character amongst these children of nature. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +A HOSTILE DEMONSTRATION. + + +I went to reside for a short time at a village about half a mile distant, +where there was a pretty good house vacant. It was called Ma-to-we, and +belonged to a chief named Atoi, a relation of George's, but a much +younger man. His power was not so great, and he was every way subject to +the authority of the tribe under whose protection I had placed myself. +One morning, at daybreak, we were roused by the hasty approach of King +George and all his warriors towards Ma-to-we. All were fully equipped for +war, and each countenance looked fierce and wild. Our late misfortunes +having rendered us more than usually anxious, this hostile appearance +gave us considerable alarm. We left our house to inquire the reason +thereof, and saw George and his followers enter the village, pull down +several fences, fire a few muskets in the air, dance a most hideous dance +of defiance, and then depart; but not one word of explanation could we +obtain from him. In the course of the morning, however, the women +acquainted us with the cause of this mysterious proceeding, which +determined me to remove my things back again to George's village of +Kororarika as soon as possible. + +The affair was simply this: Atoi had two wives. During the time of our +visit to his village, he was absent, and had entrusted these women to the +care of his brother; but he, instead of being faithful to the trust +reposed in him, had actually seduced one of them. This circumstance came +to the knowledge of George, and he, feeling for the honour of his absent +friend, immediately proceeded to the village, and thus gave the parties +warning that he was fully aware of the nature of their proceedings. He +had also dispatched a messenger to Atoi, to inform him of his disgrace, +and to request his immediate return. In the course of the day it was +expected he would arrive, and bring with him a strong party of friends, +all burning with revenge, and eager to punish his brother for his +unnatural perfidy. It was thought that unless George interfered, much +bloodshed might ensue; and it may readily be imagined how anxious we were +that this dreaded meeting should be over; yet I (for one) had determined +that I would be a witness of it. Therefore, when word was brought to me +that Atoi was crossing the bay, I hastened down to the beach. There I +found all parties assembled from both villages. George and his followers, +who were to act as mediators, sat immediately in front of the place of +landing; behind them were Atoi's brother and all his partizans; and in +the rear were all the women and children, with about a dozen white faces +scattered amongst them. The scene was picturesque and exceedingly +interesting. It was near the close of a lovely summer's day--the sun, +fast sinking towards the horizon, threw a warm and mellow glow over the +wide expanse of the far-spreading bay, whose smooth waters were only +disturbed by the approaching canoe cutting its foamy way. It was crowded +with naked warriors, urging their rapid course towards the shore; and we +heard the loud and furious song of the chief, animating his friends to +exertion; we saw his frantic gestures, as he stood in the centre of his +canoe, brandishing his weapons. As they came near the place of landing, +George ran into the stream, and as the canoe touched the shore, attacked +Atoi, but in a playful manner, splashing water over him. Thus irritated, +Atoi jumped on land, and, with a double-barrelled musket in his hand, ran +towards his brother, and doubtless would have killed him on the spot, had +he not been prevented. I now saw the advantage of George and his party +being present. He and three of his subjects seized upon Atoi, and tried +to wrest the weapon from his hands, which if they had been able to +effect, a mortal combat could not take place, such being the custom here. +Atoi was a very powerful man of about thirty, and those who attacked him +had a most difficult task; twice he broke from them; and I then watched +the countenance of his brother, which was perfectly cool and collected, +though the firelock was in readiness, and the finger on the trigger, +which might despatch him instantly. All parties sat perfectly quiet +during the desperate struggle; one of the barrels of Atoi's piece went +off, and the contents flew amongst us, without, however, doing any +material injury; and, finally, the musket was wrested out of his hands. +He then sat still for about twenty minutes, to recover his breath, when +he seized a club and rushed upon his brother (for mortal weapons were now +prohibited). The brother started up, armed in the same manner; some heavy +blows passed between them; when, having thrown aside their clubs, they +grappled each other firmly, and a dreadful struggle ensued. As they were +both completely naked, their hair was the only thing to take hold by; but +being long, thick, and strong, it afforded a firm grasp, and they +committed desperate havoc on each other's persons. At this period of the +fight their poor old mother, who was quite blind, came forward to try and +separate the combatants; the sister and younger brothers now followed her +example; and, finally, the fair and frail cause of all this commotion. + +The brothers, having completely exhausted their strength, were easily +separated; and as their friends had carefully removed all weapons out of +their reach, they of course were deprived of the means of injuring each +other. The members of Atoi's family, together with a few friends, now sat +down in a circle, to converse and consult on the affair. Atoi's wife +totally denied the charge, and protested her innocence, and many +circumstances were brought forward to corroborate her statements. The +husband at length was satisfied, and all parties were reconciled. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +THE LAW OF RETALIATION. + + +This affair was scarcely terminated, when we found that another of a +still more serious nature was likely to arise from it and would threaten +the peace of both villages. When King George sent his messenger to inform +Atoi of the infidelity of his wife, the infuriated husband assaulted the +man, and it was rumoured that he had killed him. This was an offence not +to be forgiven, and George was so exasperated by it that he vowed he +would exterminate the whole of Atoi's tribe. A native, however, arrived +with the intelligence that the man was not dead, but only wounded. This +did not seem to allay George's feelings of resentment, and he instantly +made great preparations for war. When our anxiety was wound up to the +utmost, we were greatly astonished to see Atoi and all his friends +approach our settlement, totally unarmed. George went out to meet them, +looking so full of rage that I thought Atoi stood but a slight chance for +his life. After a great deal of violent pantomimic action and grimace, +the apology offered by Atoi was accepted, and the visit was concluded by +a grand war-dance and sham fight performed in their best manner. King +George, in the fulness of his heart at this complete restoration of +friendship, gave a great feast of kumaras and fish, to which we added +some tobacco; and the whole of the party seated themselves by each other +with the utmost sociality--a convincing proof that animosity is not long +an inmate of their breasts. + +I took every opportunity of inquiring into the nature of their laws and +mode of government, and I found that, in general, their method of +redressing wrongs was very summary, and that their ideas of what was +strictly just were, for the most part, simple and equitable. For any +theft, or offence of that sort, committed by one tribe on another, the +parties are called to instant account. If one native takes from another +any part of his possessions, the party injured has a right to retaliate, +and the party retaliated upon must not make the slightest resistance. We +ourselves experienced a proof of this. Some part of our property, which +we supposed had been destroyed by our late fire, we had been told was to +be found in the hut of a neighbouring chief. We one day took advantage of +his absence, searched the hut ourselves, and discovered our things +carefully deposited therein. Thus assured of the fact, we laid our +complaint before King George, who, after hearing our story to the end, +replied, "Well, my friends, you must go to the hut and take away all your +property, and whatever else you may find, which you may think sufficient +payment for the injury you have received." We accordingly proceeded to +the chief's dwelling, whom we found standing at his door. We charged him +with having robbed us, and entered the house to seize our property. He +held down his head, and seemed ashamed and overpowered at this discovery. +He did not attempt to vindicate his conduct, but quietly allowed us not +only to take away all that had belonged to us, but likewise a musket and +double-barrelled gun, which he concluded he had lost for ever. These we +had only taken away temporarily to deter him from theft in future, for a +few days after we brought them back to him, to his infinite delight and +astonishment. + +I was frequently shocked during my residence in this country by the +number of accidents which continually happened to the natives from +gunpowder, and not even the saddest experience could render them more +careful. We were doubtful of the strength of a French fowling-piece we +had, so we loaded it to the muzzle and discharged it, in order to prove +it. Some young chiefs, who saw us do this (approving of this method), as +soon as they returned home loaded a musket in the same manner, and then +discharged it; but not managing the affair as we did--by means of a +string fastened to the trigger--the piece burst, and mangled two of them +dreadfully, and we got greatly blamed for showing them what was +considered so bad an example. + +A few months since a native came from the interior driving a quantity of +pigs to barter for powder; he obtained several pounds' weight, and set +off to return home. On his journey he passed the night in a hut, and for +safety put the bag of powder under his head as a pillow; and as a New +Zealander always sleeps with a fire close to him, the consequence was, in +the course of the night the fire communicated to the powder, and +destroyed the man and the whole of his family, who were journeying with +him. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +A WAR EXPEDITION AND A CANNIBAL FEAST. + + +Last year a chief, and cousin of King George, named Pomare, was defeated +and killed by the people of the Thames, and George was now resolved to +revenge his death. This determination having become known, we had a +constant succession of visitors, and a considerable number of blows, +scratches, and rubbing noses were the consequence. Our beach presented a +most interesting and busy scene. A dozen superb war canoes were lying +ready to convey the forces; and, considering their limited means, the +solidity of their structure and the carved work on them are surprising. +None but men of rank are allowed to work upon them, and they labour like +slaves. Some canoes were to be lengthened; others patched; others were +condemned to be broken up, and the fragments taken to complete the new +ones. Every morning we were awakened by the sound of the hammer and saw, +and they were much gratified by our walking down to their dockyard to +observe the progress they made, and by giving our opinions of their work. +They thankfully received any hint we gave them as to better methods of +completing or proceeding with their operations. Here were carvers, +painters, caulkers, and sailmakers, all working in their different +departments with great good humour and industry. Some of their vessels +were eighty feet long, and were entirely covered with beautiful +carving. Their form was light and delicate, and if their intentions were +hostile towards us, they would be very formidable alongside any merchant +man. If our Government should determine to colonise any part of New +Zealand, they would find the natives hardy and willing assistants, and +very different from the natives of New South Wales. + +[Illustration: Maori War Expedition (With Mission boat accompanying +it.)] + +As their canoes were ready for launching, they ran them off the beach, +jumped into them, and scudded across the bay with an almost incredible +swiftness. When it is considered that in each canoe were seated eighty +stout young men, each with a large paddle in his hand propelling the +vessel forward, the velocity with which she flew may be imagined! It was +in the midst of scenes like these that we were passing our time, and I +had just become delighted with the appearance of innocence and industry +so continually displayed by these people, when I was called upon to +witness a sight which exhibited their character in its worst light, and +confirmed all my horrible suspicions regarding their alleged cannibalism. + +The New Zealanders have been long charged with cannibalism; but as no +person of importance or celebrity had actually been a witness to the +disgusting act, in pity to our nature such relations have been +universally rejected, and much has been written to prove the +non-existence of so hideous a propensity. It was my lot to behold it in +all its horrors! + +One morning, about eleven o'clock, after I had just returned from a long +walk, Captain Duke informed me he had heard, from very good authority +(though the natives wished it to be kept a profound secret), that in the +adjoining village a female slave, named Matowe, had been put to death, +and that the people were at that very time preparing her flesh for +cooking. At the same time he reminded me of a circumstance which had +taken place the evening before. Atoi had been paying us a visit, and, +when going away, he recognised a girl whom he said was a slave that had +run away from him; he immediately seized hold of her, and gave her in +charge to some of his people. The girl had been employed in carrying wood +for us; Atoi's laying claim to her had caused us no alarm for her life, +and we had thought no more on the subject; but now, to my surprise and +horror, I heard this poor girl was the victim they were preparing for the +oven! Captain Duke and myself were resolved to witness this dreadful +scene. We therefore kept our information as secret as possible, well +knowing that if we had manifested our wishes they would have denied the +whole affair. We set out, taking a circuitous route towards the village, +and, being well acquainted with the road, we came upon them suddenly, and +found them in the midst of their abominable ceremonies. + +On a spot of rising ground, just outside the village, we saw a man +preparing a native oven, which is done in the following simple manner:--A +hole is made in the ground, and hot stones are put within it, and then +all is covered up close. As we approached, we saw evident signs of the +murder which had been perpetrated; bloody mats were strewed around, and a +boy was standing by them actually laughing: he put his finger to his +head, and then pointed towards a bush. I approached the bush, and there +discovered a human head. My feelings of horror may be imagined as I +recognised the features of the unfortunate girl I had seen forced from +our village the preceding evening! + +We ran towards the fire, and there stood a man occupied in a way few +would wish to see. He was preparing the four-quarters of a human body for +a feast; the large bones, having been taken out, were thrown aside, and +the flesh being compressed, he was in the act of forcing it into the +oven. While we stood transfixed by this terrible sight, a large dog, +which lay before the fire, rose up, seized the bloody head, and walked +off with it into the bushes, no doubt to hide it there for another meal! +The man completed his task with the most perfect composure, telling us, +at the same time, that the repast would not be ready for some hours! + +Here stood Captain Duke and myself, both witnesses of a scene which many +travellers have related, and their relations have invariably been treated +with contempt; indeed, the veracity of those who had the temerity to +relate such incredible events has been everywhere questioned. In this +instance it was no warrior's flesh to be eaten; there was no enemy's +blood to drink, in order to infuriate them. They had no revenge to +gratify; no plea could they make of their passions having been roused by +battle, nor the excuse that they eat their enemies to perfect their +triumph. This was an action of unjustifiable cannibalism. Atoi, the +chief, who had given orders for this cruel feast, had only the night +before sold us four pigs for a few pounds of powder; so he had not even +the excuse of want of food. After Captain Duke and myself had consulted +with each other, we walked into the village, determining to charge Atoi +with his brutality. + +Atoi received us in his usual manner; and his handsome, open countenance +could not be imagined to belong to so savage a monster as he had proved +himself to be. I shuddered at beholding the unusual quantity of potatoes +his slaves were preparing to eat with this infernal banquet. We talked +coolly with him on the subject, for, as we could not prevent what had +taken place, we were resolved to learn, if possible, the whole +particulars. Atoi at first tried to make us believe he knew nothing about +it, and that it was only a meal for his slaves; but we had ascertained it +was for himself and his favourite companions. After various endeavours to +conceal the fact, Atoi frankly owned that he was only waiting till the +cooking was completed to partake of it. He added that, knowing the horror +we Europeans held these feasts in, the natives were always most anxious +to conceal them from us, and he was very angry that it had come to our +knowledge; but, as he had acknowledged the fact, he had no objection to +talk about it. He told us that human flesh required a greater number of +hours to cook than any other; that if not done enough it was very tough, +but when sufficiently cooked it was as tender as paper. He held in his +hand a piece of paper, which he tore in illustration of his remark. He +said the flesh then preparing would not be ready till next morning; but +one of his sisters whispered in my ear that her brother was deceiving us, +as they intended feasting at sunset. + +We inquired why and how he had murdered the poor girl. He replied that +running away from him to her own relations was her only crime. He then +took us outside his village, and showed us the post to which she had been +tied, and laughed to think how he had cheated her: "For," said he, "I +told her I only intended to give her a flogging; but I fired, and shot +her through the heart!" My blood ran cold at this relation, and I looked +with feelings of horror at the savage while he related it. Shall I be +credited when I again affirm that he was not only a handsome young man, +but mild and genteel in his demeanour? He was a man we had admitted to +our table, and was a general favourite with us all; and the poor victim +to his bloody cruelty was a pretty girl of about sixteen years of age! + +While listening to this frightful detail, we felt sick almost to +fainting. We left Atoi, and again strolled towards the spot where this +disgusting mess was cooking. Not a native was now near it: a hot, fetid +steam kept occasionally bursting from the smothered mass; and the same +dog we had seen with the head now crept from beneath the bushes, and +sneaked towards the village. To add to the gloominess of the whole, a +large hawk rose heavily from the very spot where the poor victim had been +cut in pieces. My friend and I sat gazing on this melancholy place; it +was a lowering, gusty day, and the moaning of the wind through the +bushes, as it swept round the hill on which we were, seemed in unison +with our feelings. + +After some time spent in contemplating the miserable scene before us, +during which we gave full vent to the most passionate exclamations of +disgust, we determined to spoil this intended feast. This resolution +formed, we rose to execute it. I ran off to our beach, leaving Duke on +guard, and, collecting all the white men I could, I informed them of what +had happened, and asked them if they would assist in destroying the oven +and burying the remains of the girl. They consented, and each having +provided himself with a shovel or a pickaxe, we repaired in a body to +the spot. Atoi and his friends had by some means been informed of our +intention, and they came out to prevent it. He used various threats to +deter us, and seemed highly indignant; but as none of his followers +appeared willing to come to blows, and seemed ashamed that such a +transaction should have been discovered by us, we were permitted by them +to do as we chose. We accordingly dug a tolerably deep grave; then we +resolutely attacked the oven. On removing the earth and leaves, the +shocking spectacle was presented to our view--the four quarters of a +human body half roasted. During our work clouds of steam enveloped us, +and the disgust created by our task was almost overpowering. We collected +all the parts we could recognise; the heart was placed separately, we +supposed, as a savoury morsel for the chief himself. We placed the whole +in the grave, which we filled up as well as we could, and then broke and +scattered the oven. + +By this time the natives from both villages had assembled, and a scene +similar to this was never before witnessed in New Zealand. Six unarmed +men, quite unprotected (for there was not a single vessel in the harbour, +nor had there been for a month), had attacked and destroyed all the +preparations of the natives for what they consider a national feast; and +this was done in the presence of a great body of armed chiefs, who had +assembled to partake of it. After having finished this exploit, and our +passion and disgust had somewhat subsided, I could not help feeling that +we had acted very imprudently in thus tempting the fury of these savages, +and interfering in an affair that certainly was no concern of ours; but +as no harm accrued to any of our party, it plainly shows the influence +"the white men" have already obtained over them; had the offence we +committed been done by any hostile tribe, hundreds of lives would have +been sacrificed. + +The next day our old friend King George paid us a long visit, and we +talked over the affair very calmly. He highly disapproved of our conduct. +"In the first place," said he, "you did a foolish thing, which might have +cost you your lives; and yet did not accomplish your purpose after all, +as you merely succeeded in burying the flesh near the spot on which you +found it. After you went away it was again taken up, and every bit was +eaten"--a fact I afterwards ascertained by examining the grave and +finding it empty. King George further said: "It was an old custom, which +their fathers practised before them; and you had no right to interfere +with their ceremonies. I myself," added he, "have left off eating human +flesh, out of compliment to you white men; but you have no reason to +expect the same compliance from all the other chiefs. What punishment +have you in England for thieves and runaways?" We answered, "After trial, +flogging or hanging." "Then," he replied, "the only difference in our +laws is, you flog and hang, but we shoot and eat." + +After thus reproving us, he became very communicative on the subject of +cannibalism. He said, he recollected the time prior to pigs and potatoes +being introduced into the island (an epoch of great importance to the New +Zealanders), and stated that he was born and reared in an inland +district, and the only food they then had consisted of fern roots and +kumara; fish they never saw, and the only flesh he then partook of was +human. But I will no longer dwell on this humiliating subject. Most +white men who have visited the island have been sceptical on this point; +I myself was before I had "ocular proof." Consequently I availed myself +of the first opportunity to convince myself of the fact. I have reflected +upon the subject, and am thoroughly satisfied that nothing will cure the +natives of this dreadful propensity but the introduction of many +varieties of animals, both wild and tame, and all would be sure to thrive +in so mild and fine a climate. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +SLAVERY AMONG THE MAORIS. + + +The scene I have just described brings into consideration the subject of +slavery, as it now exists in New Zealand. That slavery should be the +custom of savage nations and cannibals, is not a cause of wonder: they +are the only class of human beings it ought to remain with. Here slavery +assumes its most hideous shape! Every one they can effect a seizure of in +an enemy's country becomes the slave of the captors. Chiefs are never +made prisoners; they either fight to the last, or are killed on the spot, +and their heads are preserved (by a peculiar method) as trophies. +Children are greatly prized: these they bring to their dwellings, and +they remain slaves for life. Upon the number of slaves a chief can muster +he takes his rank as a man of wealth and consequence in society; and the +only chance these wretched beings have of being released from their +miseries, is their master getting into a rage, and murdering them without +further ceremony. + +On entering a village, a stranger instantly discovers which portion of +its inhabitants are the slaves, though both the complexion and the +dresses of all are alike. The free Zealander is a joyous, good-humoured +looking man, full of laughter and vivacity, and is chattering +incessantly; but the slaves have invariably a squalid, dejected look; +they are never seen to smile, and appear literally half starved. The +beauties characteristic of a New Zealander are his teeth and hair; the +latter, in particular, is his pride and study; but the slaves have their +heads half shorn. The male slave is not allowed to marry; and any +intercourse with a female, if discovered, is generally punished by death. +Never was there a body of men so completely cut off from all society as +these poor slaves; they never can count, with certainty, on a single +moment of life, as the savage caprice of their master may instantly +deprive them of it. If, by chance, a slave should belong to a kind and +good master, an accident happening to him, or any of his family, will +probably prove equally fatal to the slave, as some are generally +sacrificed on the death of a chief. + +Thus these poor slaves are deprived of every hope and stimulus by which +all other classes and individuals are animated; no good conduct of theirs +towards their master, no attachment to his person or family, no fidelity +or long service can ensure kind treatment. If the slave effect his escape +to his own part of the country, he is there treated with contempt; and +when he dies (if a natural death), his body is dragged to the outside of +the village, there to be made sport of by the children, or to furnish +food for the dogs! but more frequently his fate is to receive a fatal +blow in a fit of passion, and then be devoured by his brutal master! Even +the female slaves who, if pretty, are frequently taken as wives by their +conquerors, have not a much greater chance of happiness, all being +dependent upon the caprice of their owners. + +When I can relate anything favourable to the missionaries, I invariably +intend to do so, which will account for the introduction of the +following: A few days since, I paid a visit to one of their settlements, +and noticed a remarkably fine native woman attending as a servant. She +was respectably dressed, and in every respect (except complexion) she was +similar to a European. She spoke English fluently. Upon expressing my +admiration of her, I was informed that this woman had been a slave of +Hongi's, and that about a year previous he had lost one of his sons, and +had determined to sacrifice this poor girl as an atonement. She was +actually bound for the purpose, and nothing but the strong interference +of the whole of the missionary society here could have saved her life. +They exerted themselves greatly, and preserved her; and she had proved a +faithful and valuable servant. + + + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +PIRATICAL SEIZURE OF A VESSEL. + + +Before finally quitting the subject of slavery, I must give an account of +some white men I saw in this state of degradation, and who belonged to a +chief who visited us some weeks since. In the beginning of 1827, the +Government of New South Wales hired the brig Wellington to convey a +number of prisoners to Norfolk Island, most of whom were felons of the +worst description: the greater part were under sentence of banishment for +life. These desperadoes amounted to seventy-four; by far too many for the +size of the brig, as those whose duty is was to guard them, and the crew +of the vessel, were too few to keep them under subjection. When within a +few days' sail of their destination, they rose on the guard, and, after a +desperate struggle, made themselves masters of the vessel, which was a +very fine one, and was well provided with arms and stores of every kind, +amounting to a sufficiency to carry them to any part of the world they +chose. But the machinations of the wicked rarely prosper, and this was +another proof of the truth of the observation; for, after a stormy and +violent debate among themselves, they at length determined to run for the +Bay of Islands, and if any vessel more eligible was there, they were to +take possession of her, and leave the Wellington behind, she having no +register. It is but justice to them to state that they behaved with +humanity to their captives, and no lives were lost: they appointed +officers amongst themselves, and, with the assistance of the deposed +captain, made this port. On their arrival here, they found two English +whalers, the Sisters, Captain Duke, and the Harriet. The commanders, as +is usual on these occasions, went immediately on board the newcomer. +Captain Duke well knew the vessel, having seen her at Sydney; but, of +course, had no idea of what had happened. The pirates received them with +great civility, and deceived them with a false description of their +voyage--of being bound to a southern port with prisoners; and the two +captains, not having the slightest suspicion of who their hosts really +were, passed a very merry evening with these marauders. + +Soon, however, their bad management of the vessel, their want of +discipline, and the general confusion on board, roused a vague suspicion +in the minds of the two captains that all was not "quite right" on board +the Wellington. The real captain, too, had succeeded in conveying a note +to Duke, informing him of his situation, and claiming his assistance to +recapture the brig, and entreating him to release them all from +captivity. + +This communication produced universal alarm, as both the whalers were +quite unprovided for attack or defence, and all the missionary +settlements lay quite at the mercy of this band of pirates. Had the +latter acted with promptness and spirit, they might easily have made +themselves masters of the whole; but while they were arguing and +hesitating where they would make their first attack, the whalers were +actively employed in getting their great guns out of the hold, and in +preparing their vessels for defence; so that, by the time the pirates +came to the resolution to attack them, the whalers were in a good +posture for resistance, and finally became the assailants. Aided by the +prompt assistance of the natives, the whole of these outlaws were taken +into custody, with the exception of six. The extreme interest the savages +took in capturing these deluded men was truly astonishing. When they were +made to understand that these were King George's (of England) slaves, who +had broken loose, they knew, from their own laws, that they ought to be +taken, and they displayed a great deal of courage and address in +approaching and securing them. + +The pirates (having many passengers and others in their power) stipulated +that they should be landed at Kororarika, unmolested by any of the +English. This was granted; but no sooner were they left by themselves +than a party of natives came forward, seized and bound them, stripped off +their clothes, and, after dressing themselves up in them, conducted their +prisoners on board the whalers; but notwithstanding the anxiety of the +whalers to secure the whole, and the activity of the natives, six of them +found means to elude the search, and here they now are. + +The day on which our houses were burned, these six landed in the train of +one of the chiefs; and I have since entertained a suspicion that it was +their desire of revenge that occasioned the destruction of our property +at the time the calamity happened. I chanced to be in the house alone, +and was amazed by seeing an Englishman enter the hut with his face +tattooed all over. Not being aware he was one of the runaways from the +Wellington, I spoke to him. He slunk into our cooking-house on pretence +of lighting his pipe, and before ten minutes had elapsed, the house was +in flames. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +THE CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. + + +The summer was now far advanced, and never, during its progress, had we +been incommoded by any very hot weather. Our house was generally crowded +with visitors: for, as it was the workmanship of King George and his +people, they were prodigiously proud of it, and each seemed to think he +had an undoubted right to sit in it as much as he liked. This, at times, +we felt as a great annoyance; but we were obliged to be very cautious not +to say or do anything that should give offence to them, as all were +exceedingly irritable, and we felt it to be most essential to our comfort +to continue on friendly terms with them. + +Although we were situated in the same latitude as Sydney, we found the +climate of New Zealand infinitely superior. Moderate heats and +beautifully clear skies succeeded each other every day. We were quite +free from those oppressive, feverish heats which invariably prevail in +the middle of the day at Sydney, and from those hot pestilential winds +which are the terror of the inhabitants of New South Wales; nor were we +subject to those long droughts, which are often the ruin of the +Australian farmer. The temperature here was neither too hot nor too cold, +neither too wet nor too dry. Reflecting on this country--its situation, +inhabitants, and climate--I felt convinced that, if it were the object of +our Government to form a new colony, they could not select a more +desirable spot than New Zealand. When we left Sydney, a disease was +raging there of a most disagreeable nature, namely, catarrh. As usual, it +affected strongly the eyes and nose, and generally proved fatal to the +very old and to children. We found the poor natives here subject to the +same complaint, which they called the "Murray," or "Murraybad"; and they +declared they caught it from us Europeans. + +I could scarcely refrain from laughing while witnessing the strange +methods they adopted to effect a cure. Sometimes they would envelope +their heads entirely in green leaves, at other times they would almost +roast themselves in a heated hut; but their universal remedy, and the one +they generally found successful, was starvation, which is, in fact, the +doctor who cures them of all the diseases the Europeans have imported +amongst them: and, I confess, I have often been amazed at their rapid +recovery from maladies which I should have thought incurable. The other +day I asked the opinion of a clever medical man, who came here with one +of the whalers, and he informed me the only cases he had met with amongst +the natives, which terminated fatally, were a few instances of +consumption. + +After the novelty of our savage life began to wear away, I rambled much +about the country, in order to form some judgment of its capability of +improvement. I never possessed any practical knowledge of farming, and +therefore cannot give a scientific opinion or description of the +different soils. In whatever direction I travelled, and at this time I +had crossed the country in various directions several times, the soil +appeared to me to be fat and rich, and also well watered. From every +part of it which the natives have cultivated, the produce has been +immense. Here, where the finest samples of the human race are to be +found, the largest and finest timber grows, and every vegetable (yet +planted) thrives, the introduction of European grasses, fruits, etc., +etc., would be a great desideratum. Were this done, in a very short time +farms would be more eagerly sought after here than they now are in New +South Wales. All the fruits and plants hitherto introduced by the +missionary establishments have succeeded wonderfully. Peaches and water +melons now were in full season; the natives brought baskets full of them +to our door every day, which they exchanged with us for the merest +trifles, such as a fish-hook, or a button. + +Indian corn was likewise very abundant, but as the natives did not +possess any means or knowledge of grinding it, they were not aware of its +full value. Their only method of cooking it was one very disgusting to +Europeans. They soaked the ear in water till it was quite soft and sour, +the smell from which was exceedingly offensive; they then placed it in +their earth ovens to bake, and when they partook of it they seemed to +enjoy it very much. + +In one of my journeys across the island I was accompanied by my Scotch +friend, Mr. Shand, who prided himself very much upon his general +knowledge of agricultural pursuits; and when I indulged in some sudden +bursts of admiration at the beauty of the surrounding prospect, he would +invariably check my enthusiasm, by observing that no animals could +possibly live in a country so overgrown with fern, and where no grass was +indigenous. These observations, often repeated, obliged me to qualify my +admiration of this picturesque and beautiful land; but my surprise, and I +may say my triumph, were complete when, on approaching the missionary +village of Kirikiri, we fell in with a herd of at least a hundred fat +cattle, browsing on the sides of the hill, and having nothing else but +this very fern to eat; and, on inquiry, we found they gave as good milk, +and were in as healthy a condition, as when they grazed on the rich +grasses of Lincolnshire. + +My friend, Captain Duke, made great preparations for the return of his +ships, and purchased many pigs to be salted. The self-denial of the +natives is wonderful: though very fond of animal food, they sell the +whole to us Europeans for the means of war; thus conquering the appetite +for the purpose of possessing arms to make them terrible in the sight of +their enemies. This feeling, properly directed, may lead to their +becoming a great nation. In the course of our saltings and picklings of +pork, owing to the warmth of the weather, a considerable quantity was +spoiled. I recommended its being immediately thrown into the sea, but +Duke, who knew the propensities of the people better than I did, and +wished to ingratiate himself among them, sent for some of his favourites, +and presented them with the damaged meat, with which they marched off +highly delighted, and made a public feast of it in the evening. + +[Illustration: New Zealand Method of Tattooing. (From a sketch by +A. Earle.)] + + + + +CHAPTER XXXII. + +THE ART OF TATTOOING. + + +The art of tattooing has been brought to such perfection here, that +whenever we have seen a New Zealander whose skin is thus ornamented, we +have admired him. It is looked upon as answering the same purposes as +clothes. When a chief throws off his mats, he seems as proud of +displaying the beautiful ornaments figured on his skin as a first-rate +exquisite is in exhibiting himself in his last fashionable attire. It is +an essential part of war-like preparations. The whole of this district of +Kororarika was preparing for the approaching war. Their canoes, muskets, +powder and balls, increased daily; and a very ingenious artist, called +Aranghie, arrived to carry on this important branch of his art, which was +soon placed in requisition, for all the mighty men in the neighbourhood +were one by one under his operating hands. + +As this "professor" was a near neighbour of mine, I frequently paid him a +visit in his "studio," and he returned the compliment whenever he had +time to spare. He was considered by his countrymen a perfect master in +the art of tattooing, and men of the highest rank and importance were in +the habit of travelling long journeys in order to put their skins under +his skilful hands. Indeed, so highly were his works esteemed, that I have +seen many of his drawings exhibited even after death. A neighbour of mine +very lately killed a chief who had been tattooed by Aranghie, and, +appreciating the artist's work so highly, he skinned the chieftain's +thighs, and covered his cartouch box with it. + +I was astonished to see with what boldness and precision Aranghie drew +his designs upon the skin, and what beautiful ornaments he produced; no +rule and compasses could be more exact than the lines and circles he +formed. So unrivalled is he in his profession, that a highly-finished +face of a chief from the hands of this artist is as greatly prized in New +Zealand as a head from the hands of Sir Thomas Lawrence is amongst us. It +was most gratifying to behold the respect these savages pay to the fine +arts. This "professor" was merely a _kooky_ or slave, but by skill and +industry he raised himself to an equality with the greatest men of his +country; and as every chief who employed him always made him some +handsome present, he soon became a man of wealth, and was constantly +surrounded by such important personages as Pungho Pungho, Ruky Ruky, Kivy +Kivy, Aranghy Tooker, etc., etc. My friend Shulitea (King George) sent +him every day the choicest things from his own table. Though thus basking +in the full sunshine of court favour, Aranghie, like a true genius, was +not puffed up with pride by his success, for he condescended to come and +take tea with me almost every evening. He was delighted with my drawings, +particularly with a portrait I made of him. He copied so well, and seemed +to enter with such interest into the few lessons of painting I gave him, +that if I were returning from here direct to England, I would certainly +bring him with me, as I look upon him as a great natural genius. + +[Illustration: Specimens of Tattooed Faces and Thigh. (From "Expedition +de l'Astrolabe.")] + +One of the important personages who came to the village to employ the +talent of our artist was a _Mr_. Rooky Rooky (and he was always very +particular in remembering the _Mister_); he brought four of his wives +with him, leaving six more at home (polygamy in New Zealand being allowed +to any extent). One of this man's wives was a little girl not more than +ten years of age, and she excited a great deal of interest amongst us, +which, when he discovered, he became very anxious to dispose of her to +any of us. He importuned us incessantly on the subject, saying she was +his slave, and offered her in exchange for a musket. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIII. + +TRIBAL GOVERNMENT AND RELIGION. + + +Though from my increased knowledge of the language, I was enabled to hold +longer conversations, I could not discover that the New Zealanders had +any universal form of government: there appeared to me to be no public +bodies, or any functionaries employed by the people. Each chief seemed to +possess absolute power over his own slaves, and there his authority +terminated. Wealth made him feared by his foes, but gave him no influence +over his friends. All offence offered to any one of a tribe (or clan) is +instantly followed by some act of retaliation by the aggrieved party; and +if one tribe is too weak to contend against the one from whom they have +received the injury, they call in the aid of another. But should the +offence be of a very aggravated nature, and several families be injured +by it, a meeting of the chiefs is called. They assemble in one of their +forts, and, after a discussion, decide either for an amicable adjustment, +or for an exterminating war. Thus these misguided beings are continually +destroying each other for some imaginary insult. + +I became acquainted with a few venerable men of truly noble and +praiseworthy characters, such as would do honour to any age, country, or +religion. They had passed their whole lives in travelling from one +chieftain's residence to another, for the purpose of endeavouring to +explain away insults, to offer apologies, and to strive by every means +in their power to establish peace between those about to plunge their +country into the horrors of war. I have several times met these +benevolent men journeying through the country on these pacific missions; +and twice during my residence here they have been the happy means of +preventing bloodshed. Although the New Zealander is so fond of war, and +possesses such war-like manners, yet are these peacemakers held in the +highest respect, although they do not hold any sacred function--indeed, +no order of priesthood exists amongst the natives. I have never +discovered any symptoms of religion in these people, except it consists +in a great variety of absurd and superstitious ceremonies. Before I +visited this island I used to imagine, from seeing so great a variety of +carved figures which had been brought from this country, that they were +idols, to whom they paid their devotions; but in this I was deceived. +They were merely the grotesque carvings of rude artists, possessing a +lively fancy, and were a proof of their industry as well as genius. Every +chief's house is adorned with an abundance of these carved monsters. One +of their favourite subjects is a lizard taking hold of the top of a man's +head; their tradition being that that was the origin of man. The lizard +is sacred, and never injured by them. Several of their chiefs assured me +they believed in the existence of a great and invisible spirit, called +Atna, who keeps a constant charge and watch over them; and that they are +constantly looking out for tokens of his approbation or displeasure. +There is not a wind that blows but they imagine it bears some message +from him. And there are not wanting crafty men who pretend to a much more +intimate knowledge of his sentiments than the generality, and they easily +work on the minds of the credulous and the ignorant. These imposters +obtain great consideration, and their counsel and advice is most +anxiously sought after by those about to undertake any important +business; but, like ancient astrologers and modern gypsies, they speak +only in ambiguous terms; so that whatever may be the result, their +prediction may still correspond with it. + +Like all rude and ignorant people, the New Zealanders seem more to fear +the wrath of their God than to love his attributes; and constant +sacrifices (too often human ones) are offered up to appease his anger. +They imagine that the just and glorious Deity is ever ready to destroy, +and that His hand is always stretched forth to execute vengeance. + +These sacred, or, more correctly speaking, these "cunning" men and women, +who pretend to see into futurity, and to hold an intercourse with the +Great Spirit, are here (in one way, at least) turned to a good and useful +account. As they themselves are held sacred, everything they wish to have +taken particular care of, they can render sacred also. All the chiefs +find these people of the greatest use in protecting their property, for +they possess the power of tabooing, and when once this ceremony is +performed over any person or thing, no one dares to touch either; and for +a sufficiently good bribe they will impart their sacred power to any +chief, who, by means of this device, thus can protect a field of potatoes +or grain, at fifty miles distance from his settlement, more securely and +effectually than by any fences, or number of persons he might place to +guard it. + +This ceremony of taboo, which is common to the whole of the South Sea +Islands, seems the principal part of their religion, and it is really +difficult to walk without trespassing or infringing on some spot under +this influence. All those who touch a corpse are immediately taboo'd, and +must be fed like an infant, as their own hands must not touch anything +that is put into their mouths. In fact, as we strolled through the +village at the time of their evening repast, it appeared as though some +dreadful disease had suddenly struck the greater part of the inhabitants, +and deprived them of the use of their limbs, most of them being either +fed by their slaves, or lying flat down on the ground, and with their +mouths eating out of their platters or baskets. The canoe that carries a +corpse to the place of its interment is, from that time, taboo'd and laid +up; and if any one by chance touches it, he does so at his peril. + +All those chiefs who were under the operating hands of Aranghie, the +tatooer, were under this law, and all those who worked upon their war +canoes were similarly situated. Unfortunately for me, I one day took away +a handful of chips from their dockyard to make our fire burn clearly. I +was informed they were taboo'd, and upon my pleading ignorance, and +sorrow for the misdemeanour, together with a promise not to renew the +offence, I was pardoned. A poor hen of ours did not escape so well; she, +poor thing, ventured to form a nest, and actually hatched a fine family +of chickens amongst these sacred shavings! Loud was the outcry, and great +the horror she occasioned when she marched forth cackling, with her merry +brood around her. She and "all her little ones" were sacrificed +instantly. What became of their bodies we could never learn; probably the +workmen were not too fastidious to eat them. + +I have observed, since my residence here, one circumstance which proves a +kind feeling in the natives, and shows they are not averse to the +preaching of the missionaries, or the doctrines they inculcate. + +It was the custom of all the Europeans settled here, on the beach at +Kororarika, to refrain from all kinds of work on the Sabbath; to shave, +and dress themselves in their best habiliments; and if any of the +missionaries came over, they went forth to meet them, and hear divine +service. Several of the natives generally assembled and witnessed the +ceremony; and as they observed it came every seventh day, they called it +"the white taboo'd day, when the pakeha (or white men) put on clean +clothes, and leave off work;" and, strange to say, the natives also +abstained from working on that day. Nothing could induce them to the +contrary; not that we wished to persuade them to work, but merely +endeavoured so to do to ascertain the strength of their politeness. Not a +bit of work would they do upon a Sunday, although it was a critical time +with them; for all the chiefs were unprepared with their war canoes for +the approaching expedition. At length we discovered that their cunning +was as conspicuous as their politeness. They had observed we generally +lay longer in bed on a Sunday morning than any other; they accordingly +were up by break of day, and had completed many hours' work before we +made our appearance; but the moment one of us did appear the work was +instantly left off. This degree of outward respect, though craftily +managed, was infinitely more than could be reasonably expected from a +rude and turbulent savage. It is mere respect than we Europeans pay to +any religious ceremony we do not understand. Even their taboo'd grounds +would not be so respected by us, if we were not quite certain they +possessed the power instantly to revenge any affront offered to their +sacred places. + +Of all animals introduced by the Europeans, the most unserviceable, and +indeed injurious, have been the dogs. They have increased rapidly; every +spot was crowded with poor half-starved curs, that were all night long +committing depredations on the poultry, pigs, and goats; and if some +effectual means of diminishing this pernicious breed is not soon resorted +to, the island will be cleared of every other quadruped. Goats were +beginning to increase, and the craggy heights round the bays formed a +favourite retreat for these interesting wanderers. Captain Duke put +himself to great expense and trouble, and effected the importation of +some sheep from Van Diemen's Land; but the dogs soon destroyed them all. + + +THE MASSACRE OF THE FRENCH NAVIGATOR MARION AND PARTY. + +Our friend George generally paid us a visit after the business of the day +was over, and took a cup of tea; wine or grog he detested: so, while he +sipped his beverage, we lit our pipes, and managed, with our slight +knowledge of his language, together with his imperfect English, to keep +up a sort of conversation. Sometimes this was rather wearisome; but +occasionally it became interesting in the extreme. He told us that, when +Captain Cook touched here, he was a little child; but that his mother +(old Turero, who was then with him) remembered his coming well. The +French navigator, Marion, he recollected perfectly, and made one of the +party that murdered him and his people. His observation was, "They were +all brave men; but they were killed and eaten." + +He assured us that the catastrophe was quite unpremeditated. Marion's +entire ignorance of the customs of the New Zealanders occasioned that +distressing event: as I have before observed, that strangers, not +acquainted with their religious prejudices, are likely to commit some +fatal error; and no action is more likely to lead a party into danger +than an incautious use of the seine, for most of the beaches (best suited +for that purpose) are taboo'd. This led to the dreadful fate of Marion +and his party. I understood from George, that when Marion's men assembled +to trail their net on the sacred beach, the natives used every kind of +entreaty and remonstrance to induce them to forbear, but, either from +ignorance or obstinacy, they persisted in their intentions, and drew +their net to land. + +The natives, greatly incensed by this act of impiety, vowed revenge; and +the suspicions of the French not being roused, an opportunity soon +presented itself of taking ample retaliation. The seine being very heavy, +the French required the assistance of the natives in drawing it on shore. +These wily fellows instantly consented to the task, and placed themselves +alternately between each Frenchman, apparently, to equalise the work. +Consequently, in the act of pulling, each native had a white man before +him; and, on an appointed signal, the brains of each European were +knocked out by a tremendous blow of the stone hatchet. + +Captain Marion, who, from his ship, was an eye-witness of these horrid +murders, instantly hastened on shore with the remainder of his crew to +avenge the slaughter of his countrymen. Led on more by ardour than +prudence, he suffered himself to be surrounded; was overpowered by +numbers, defeated, and every one was put to death! + +This account of George's does not, I acknowledge, exactly agree with the +published narrative of that unfortunate event, nor does his age agree +with the dates. Only a few years elapsed between the time of Cook and +Marion, yet he declares himself to have been a child at the death of the +navigator, and a man at the murder of the latter; but as it was voluntary +on his part to give me the above detail, and even if he were not present +himself, he most probably had the facts from one who was, I thought it +worth inserting, as tending to throw light on one of the most melancholy +events which ever took place on these coasts. + +George also related to me the dreadful tragedy of the ship Boyd, and, +horrible as these relations were, I felt a particular interest, almost +amounting to pleasure, in hearing them related by an eye-witness; one who +had been an actor in those bloody scenes which I had before read of: +narratives which from my very childhood had always possessed particular +charms for me; and at this time I was not only looking on the very spot +the hero of my imagination, Cook, had trod, but was hearing the tale from +one who had actually seen him; and was listening to every particular +concerning the transactions of Marion and his men, as though they had +just taken place. + +Even in the dreadful destruction of the Boyd, George laid the blame +entirely on the English, and spoke with great bitterness of the +ill-treatment of Philip, the native chief, who came as passenger in the +ship. He described and mimicked his cleaning shoes and knives; his being +flogged when he refused to do this degrading work; and, finally, his +speech to his countrymen when he came on shore, soliciting their +assistance in capturing the vessel, and revenging his ill-treatment. Over +and over again our friend George, having worked up his passion by a full +recollection of the subject, went through the whole tragedy. The scene +thus portrayed was interesting although horrible. No actor, trained in +the strictest rules of his art, could compete with George's vehemence of +action. The flexibility of his features enabled him to vary the +expression of each passion; and he represented hatred, anger, horror, and +the imploring of mercy so ably that, in short, one would have imagined he +had spent his whole life in practising the art of imitation. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIV. + +THE MAORI VIEW OF CHRISTIANITY. + + +I frequently conversed with George upon the subject of religion, and from +what he told me I found that the natives had not formed the slightest +idea of there being a state of future punishment. They refuse to believe +that the good Spirit intends to make them miserable after their decease. +They imagine all the actions of this life are punished here, and that +every one when dead, good or bad, bondsman or free, is assembled on an +island situated near the North Cape, where both the necessaries and +comforts of life will be found in the greatest abundance, and all will +enjoy a state of uninterrupted happiness. A people of their simple +habits, and possessing so little property, have but few temptations to +excesses of any kind, excepting the cruelties practised by them in war, +in which they fancy themselves perfectly justified, and the tyranny +exercised by them over their slaves, whom they look upon as mere +machines. There is, in fact, but little crime among them, for which +reason they cannot imagine any man wicked enough to deserve eternal +punishment. This opinion of theirs we saw an illustration of one Sunday, +when one of the missionaries paid us a visit. + +The ceremony of all assembling to public worship astonished the natives +greatly, though they always behaved with the utmost decorum when admitted +into the house where the ceremony takes place. On the day in question +the minister endeavoured to explain the sacred mysteries of our religion +to a number of the chiefs who were present. They listened attentively to +all he said, and expressed no doubts as to its truth, only remarking that +"as all these wonderful circumstances happened only in the country of the +white men, the great Spirit expected the white men only to believe them." +The missionary then began to expatiate on the torments of hell, at which +some of them seemed horrified, but others said "they were quite sure such +a place could only be made for the white faces, for they had no men half +wicked enough in New Zealand to be sent there;" but when the reverend +gentleman added with vehemence that "all men" would be condemned, the +savages all burst into a loud laugh, declaring "they would have nothing +to do with a God who delighted in such cruelties; and then (as a matter +of right) hoped the missionary would give them each a blanket for having +taken the trouble of listening to him so patiently." + +I cannot forbear censuring the missionaries, inasmuch as they prevent the +natives, by every means in their power, from acquiring the English +language. They make a point of mastering the native tongue as quickly as +possible, and being able to give their whole time and attention to it, +this is easily accomplished. It is of importance that they should do so, +otherwise they could not carry on the duties of the mission; but by thus +engrossing the knowledge, they obtain great influence over the minds of +the natives. We ourselves were sadly puzzled by a correspondence we had +with two native chiefs, who had been taught to read and write by some of +the Society; but their acquirements being in their native language, were +of no possible use. The difficulty of teaching them English would not +have been greater, and then what stores of information and improvement +might not their instructors have laid open to them. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXV. + +THREATENED INVASION BY HONGI. + + +We had passed some months here, and were beginning to look out for the +return of our brig, to take us again into civilised society, when we were +once more thrown into alarm by a threatened invasion. A rumour was +circulated in the village that Hongi, who now lay at the point of death, +had declared that he would make one last glorious effort before he +expired. He was resolved (it was reported) to collect his warriors, +overcome George and his followers, possess himself of Kororarika, and die +upon the conquered territory of his enemy; and I had no doubt that in his +moment of delirium such had been his exclamations, as it had always been +one of his favourite projects. When this was reported to George, he +immediately came to us, and with a most doleful countenance told us we +must take care of ourselves; for, if the report proved true, he was much +too weak to protect us. This certainly caused us some alarm, but, +fortunately for us, a good-sized whaler, the Marianne, was then lying at +anchor in the port, having arrived but a few days previously. The +presence of a ship, all over the world, is felt as a protection to +Europeans, as in case of danger it is a sure place of refuge. + +King George sent off his messengers in every direction to inform his +friends and dependants of the threats uttered against him by Hongi, and +the next day eight large war canoes, filled with warriors, came to his +assistance. They landed at some distance from the beach, and, as it was +late in the day, they would not make their public _entree_ till the next +morning; for the New Zealanders are very fond of giving a grand effect to +all their public meetings. I determined to pay them a visit, to witness +the ceremonies of the night bivouack, which proved a most picturesque +scene, and wild and beautiful in the extreme. Their watch fires glanced +upon the dark skins of these finely formed men, and on their bright +weapons. Some groups were dancing; others were lying round a fire, +chanting wild songs, descriptive of former wars; whilst the graver elders +sat in a circle, and discussed the present state of affairs. All were +delighted to see me, and each group offered to share their fire and +provisions with the "white visitor," as they termed me. + +The next morning these auxiliary forces were seen descending the hills to +our village; and, in order to return the compliment, we all went in our +best array to receive them. There were upwards of two hundred athletic, +naked savages, each armed with his firelock, and marching with the utmost +regularity. The chiefs took the lead. The alarm such a sight might have +created was dissipated by the certainty that they came as our protectors. +I even imagined their countenances were not so ferocious as usual but as +they approached near to our party, the usual sham fight began, +accompanied by the war dance, and although I expected it, and indeed had +come for the purpose of witnessing it, it was conducted with so much fury +on both sides, that at length I became quite horrified, and for some +time could not divest myself of the feeling that our visitors were +playing false, so closely did this mock combat resemble a real one. The +dreadful noises, the hideous faces, the screeching of the women, and the +menacing gestures of each party, were so calculated to inspire terror, +that stouter hearts than mine might have felt fear. When the tumult +subsided, the elder chiefs squatted down, and had the long talk usual on +these occasions. + +I was much delighted to recognise among these chiefs one I had known at +Sydney. During his residence in that city I had permitted him to remain +in my house, and the few presents which he had requested on his return to +his own country I had provided him with, and sent him off delighted and +happy, and never expected to behold him again. The moment I approached he +recollected me, jumped up from the "council," ran up to me, hugged me in +his arms, and rubbed noses so forcibly with me that I felt his friendship +for some time, besides being daubed all over most plentifully with red +ochre, which he, being then on a war-like and ceremonious visit, was +smeared with from head to foot. + +When my savage friend (whom we used to call Mr. Tookee) had overcome his +first burst of delight at seeing me, and had literally left off jumping +for joy, he introduced me to his father, Mr. De Frookee, the chief of his +tribe, a very fine specimen of an old New Zealander, who was (I found) +highly respected for his integrity and benevolence. His eyes overflowed +with tears when he heard I was the person who had shown such kindness to +his son at Sydney. I soon felt quite "at home" with the old chief, and +experienced the good effect of having kept my word with this uncultivated +savage. I had, at the time I presented him with the gifts, been much +laughed at by my acquaintances at Sydney for putting myself to such +unnecessary expense; but, from the gratitude he displayed for the +trifling services I had then rendered him, I felt assured he and his +companions would do all in their power to protect me from every danger. + +A long discussion was now carried on, one speaker at a time occupying the +oblong space round which the warriors sat, and the more animated the +debate, the faster ran the speaker to and fro, flourishing his hatchet in +a most dexterous manner. The instant one speaker finishes, another starts +up to answer him; but previous to rising they throw a mat or blanket over +their shoulders, and arrange it most tastefully around them; and, as +their attitudes are all striking and graceful, and a great part of the +figure is left exposed, it forms a study for an artist, well worth his +going many miles to witness, and invariably reminded me of the fine +models of antiquity. + +As a painter, I conceive that this must have been the great secret of the +perfection to which the Greek and Roman sculptors brought their works; as +they constantly contemplated the display of the human form in all its +beauty in their various gymnastic exercises, which enabled them to +transfer to marble such ease and elegance as we, living in an age of +coats and breeches, never shall be able to rival. + +After the important subjects had been settled by the elders, the young +men assembled without their weapons, and began another kind of sham +fight, one grappling with another, till hundreds of them were locked in +each other's arms, and were flung in heaps in every direction. After +they were tired of this pastime, a regular ring was formed, and a +wrestling match began, which was carried on in as regular and fair a +manner as a boxing match in our own country, and as much skill and +cunning were displayed in the art of throwing as the greatest connoisseur +would desire. I was pleased, also, to observe that, whatever happened +(and some most severe throws and blows passed), nothing could disturb +their good humour. + +This party, having remained for seven days on our beach, and not hearing +anything more of our intended invaders, their provisions also becoming +rather scarce, took leave in order to return to their own district, +placing scouts to give them quick intelligence of the movements of the +enemy. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVI. + +ARRIVAL OF A WARSHIP. + + +A few days after the departure of this friendly tribe, a "King's ship" of +eighteen guns arrived in the Bay; consequently all our fears of an +immediate invasion were over. No sooner had she cast anchor than our +friend George came to us, expressing the greatest anxiety to visit King +George of England's warship, and requesting we would accompany him, which +we readily agreed to do; and he left us to adorn himself for the +occasion. Soon after he reappeared in great state. A very splendid +war-mat was thrown over his shoulders; his hair was dressed, oiled, and +decorated with feathers, and his person was plentifully covered with red +ochre: he appeared a very fine-looking fellow: his mother, his three +wives, and all his sons and daughters were dressed in equal magnificence, +and accompanied him. + +In this state we went off to visit the vessel; but the moment I came +alongside, I repented my being there, for the rude and churlish manner in +which we were received distressed me considerably. In the first place, an +order was given that none but the chief himself should be allowed to come +on board; consequently his wives and daughters were obliged to remain in +the canoe. The captain spoke only a few words to George, who was allowed +to remain but a few minutes in the cabin; on getting up to take leave, +George took off his fine war-mantle and presented it to the captain; but, +receiving no other covering in return for his gift, he went on shore +naked! The officers of the vessel behaved differently: they conducted us +all down into the gun-room, where they treated us most kindly, and paid +every attention to our friend George, whose dignity was deeply wounded by +the cool and contemptuous behaviour of the captain. + +How greatly is it to be regretted that some arrangements are not made by +our Government at Home, and that there are not orders given to commanders +of ships of war touching here to pay attention to the chiefs, and to make +some trifling presents amongst them; for there never were a people more +anxious to cultivate a friendly intercourse with British subjects than +the inhabitants of New Zealand: and yet there is scarcely a Government +vessel that puts into port here but the natives receive some insult, +though they are sent for the express purpose of supporting the dignity of +the English nation, and to cultivate the amicable feelings of the chiefs. + +When a "King's ship" comes to anchor, the chiefs (with all the glee of +children going to a fair) collect together their wives, children, and +friends, and pay a visit to the "fighting ships," to see King George's +warriors (as they call them): when they come alongside they are kept off +by an armed sentry; and, after a long parley, they are informed the chief +may come, but his family and friends must not. In this case, the natives +generally spit at the vessel, and, uttering execrations on their +inhospitality, return on shore. + +One of the savage chieftains who accompanied us to the vessel in +question, on our way back remarked, "that the white warriors were +_afraid_ of admitting them, though they were unarmed and but a few; while +the warriors in the ships were many, and armed with their great guns." + +Living entirely amongst these people so long as I had done, I felt the +absurdity of such conduct, and the folly of treating them so harshly. If +ever individuals are so situated as to need either the esteem or the +confidence of savages, they must bear with their prying and childish +curiosity, and not be afraid of treating them too kindly; by this means +they become the quietest and gentlest creatures in the world; but, if +treated with contumely, and their wives and families repulsed from your +ship, they become dangerous, vindictive, and cruel neighbours, as many a +dreadful deed which has taken place in this vicinity will fully prove. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVII. + +THE WHALERS AND THE MISSIONARIES. + + +The South Sea whalers are the ships the natives are the most anxious to +see on their coasts; and it is the crews of those vessels who have, in a +manner, civilised these hardy islanders. Captain Gardiner, of the +Marianne (the vessel now in the harbour), is the oldest person in that +trade; and he informed me, that not longer than twenty years back +scarcely any vessel would dare to touch at New Zealand; and when, from +particular circumstances, they were obliged so to do, they kept their +boarding-nettings up, and kept a strict guard night and day: their fears +arose from a want of knowledge of the disposition of the people. The +vessels frequenting the island use no precautions now: hundreds of +natives are permitted to crowd on board each ship; and no accident has +ever occurred from this mode of treatment. But when a ship of war arrives +here for the first time, the precautions taken are, to arm the row-guard +with cutlasses and pistols, and to harass the crew with constant +watching, while the only enemy that exists is in their own imaginations. +To the courage and enterprise of the commanders of whalers all credit is +due for working the rapid change in these once bloody-minded savages, and +forming safe and commodious harbours for their vessels to refit in: this +have they done in a part of the world lately looked upon with horror. +What credit soever the missionaries may take to themselves, or try to +make their supporters in England believe, every man who has visited this +place, and will speak his mind freely and disinterestedly, must +acknowledge _they_ have had no share in bringing about this change of +character; but, on the contrary, they have done all that in them lay to +injure the reputation of the whaler in the estimation of the natives. +Hitherto they have not succeeded: their want of hospitality and kindness +to their own countrymen raises a strong dislike to them in the minds of +these unsophisticated people. According to their simple notions of right +and wrong, they think the want of hospitality an unpardonable offence, +and that the counsel or advice of a man who shuts his door against his +neighbour is not worthy of being attended to. + +I will give the reader one more anecdote of these men, who are sent out +to set an example of the beauty of the Christian faith to the +unenlightened heathens. A few weeks since, the festival of Christmas took +place; and Englishmen, in whatever part of the world they chance to be, +make a point of assembling together on that day, our recollections then +being associated with "home" and our families, uniting to spend that day +in mutual congratulations and wishes for happiness. For some time +previous to its arrival, the captains of the two whalers and myself had +been deliberating where we should spend this social day; and it was +finally settled that we should cross the bay to Te Puna, a beautiful and +romantic spot, the residence of an intelligent chief, called Warri Pork, +and an Englishman, named Hanson. Near this was a church missionary +establishment; and at this Englishman's house we determined we would +spend the day. The captains of the two whalers then in the harbour +joined our party; and as everyone contributed his share towards our +picnic feast, the joint stock made altogether a respectable appearance. + +We proceeded to Te Puna in two whaleboats: it was a most delightful trip, +the scenery being strikingly beautiful. The village of Ranghe Hue, +belonging to Warri Pork, is situated on the summit of an immense and +abrupt hill: the huts belonging to the savages appeared, in many places, +as though they were overhanging the sea, the height being crowned with a +mighty pah. At the bottom of this hill, and in a beautiful valley, the +cottages of the missionaries are situated, complete pictures of English +comfort, content, and prosperity; they are close to a bright sandy beach: +a beautiful green slope lies in their rear, and a clear and never-failing +stream of water runs by the side of their enclosures. As the boats +approached this lovely spot, I was in an ecstasy of delight: such a happy +mixture of savage and civilised life I had never seen before; and when I +observed the white smoke curling out of the chimneys of my countrymen, I +anticipated the joyful surprise, the hearty welcome, the smiling faces, +and old Christmas compliments that were going to take place, and the +great pleasure it would give our secluded countrymen to meet us, in these +distant regions, at this happy season, and talk of our relatives and +friends in England. + +My romantic notions were soon crushed; our landing gave no pleasure to +these secluded Englishmen: they gave us no welcome; but, as our boats +approached the shore, they walked away to their own dwellings, closed +their gates and doors after them, and gazed at us through their windows; +and during three days that we passed in a hut quite near them, they +never exchanged one word with any of the party. Thus foiled in our hopes +of spending a social day with our compatriots, after our dinner was over +we sent materials for making a bowl of punch up the hill to the chiefs, +and spent the remainder of the day surrounded by generous savages, who +were delighted with our company, and who did everything in their power to +make us comfortable. In the course of the afternoon two of the mission +came up to preach; but the savages were so angry with them for not +showing more kindness to their own countrymen, that none would listen to +them. + +I have visited many of the Roman Catholic missionary establishments; +their priests adopt quite a different line of conduct: they are cheerful +and kind to the savage pagan, and polite and attentive to their European +brethren; they have gained the esteem of those they have been sent to +convert; they have introduced their own language amongst them, which +enables them to have intercourse with strangers; and, however we may +differ in some tenets of religious belief, we must acknowledge the +success of their mission. They have brought nearly the whole of the +Indian population in South America into the bosom of their church; and +their converts form the greater part of the people. Notwithstanding the +numerous church and sectarian missionaries sent from England, I never met +with one Indian converted by them. I have attended mass in an Indian +village; a native priest performed the ceremony, and the whole +congregation (except myself) were of his cast and complexion: and, it is +worthy of remark, that in Peru, and some of the most populous provinces, +a pagan is scarcely to be found. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVIII. + +THREATENED WAR. + + +We now heard that Tetoro (one of the most powerful chiefs of this part of +the island) had taken offence, and had sent a defiance to King George, +saying he intended coming to seek revenge, accompanied by a strong body +of warriors; and the "herald" who brought this proclamation informed us +that the English settlers were to be attacked and plundered also. + +We had every reason to fear this might prove a more calamitous affair +than any we had yet experienced; as George immediately collected all his +family and dependents, and took his departure for the Kawakawa river (the +residence of De Kookie, the chief who had come to his assistance against +Hongi's attack), leaving behind only a few slaves. Thus a second time +were we left to our own resources on Kororarika Beach. George and his +followers were too much scattered: some were trading with the ships, +others were distributed in various districts, attending to their +agricultural pursuits. Thus separated, each might become an easy prey to +any of the powerful chiefs; but, were they united, they would be too +strong for any of the tribes: unfortunately the hope of gain made them +risk so great a danger. At this period, too, there was not a single +vessel in the bay to protect us. The known partiality of all the tribes +for Europeans was the only consolation we had; and we endeavoured to +cheer each other with this hope, under what in reality might be +considered very appalling circumstances. + +After enduring this state of suspense and anxiety for several days, and +no enemy appearing, we determined to pay a visit to the camp of the +combined army of our friends, which would, at the same time, gratify our +own curiosity, and give them a degree of satisfaction; as it would prove +to them that we were not afraid of venturing amongst them, even in times +of danger. We accordingly prepared the whaleboats to proceed up the +Kawakawa river; and, as I had never been there before, the present +afforded an excellent opportunity for exploring that picturesque spot. + +At the top of the Bay of Islands, two rivers disembogue, the Wye Catte +and the Kawakawa: they are both small but beautiful streams. It was early +in the morning when we started: the dewy mist rose from the unruffled +bosom of the river like the gradual lifting up of a curtain, and, at +length, displayed its lofty sides, covered with immense trees, the +verdure extending to the very edge of the water. All was quiet, +beautiful, and serene; the only sounds which broke the calm were the wild +notes of the tui (or New Zealand blackbird), the splashing of our own +oars, or the occasional flight of a wild duck (or shag), disturbed by our +approach. + +We rowed our boat many miles without seeing the slightest vestige of any +human inhabitants or civilisation: all appeared wild and magnificent as +if just fresh from the hands of nature; and it failed not to lead the +mind up to the contemplation of the Creator. It seemed utterly impossible +to reconcile the idea that such lonely, romantic, and sequestered scenes +could conceal hordes of savage cannibals, or that the tranquility of this +very place would soon be exchanged for the noise and tumult of savage +warfare. We soon reached the village where the coalesced chiefs had taken +up their station: they had fortified their position, and were waiting the +approach of the enemy. No sooner, however, was our arrival known, than +all came running down tumultuously to give us welcome: all business was +laid aside to greet our landing, and we were conducted with great +ceremony into the centre of the camp. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIX. + +CONSTRUCTION OF A PA. + + +We found eight hundred warriors, who (to use a sea phrase) were "all at +quarters." The magic pen of Scott might here have been well employed to +describe "The Gathering." The chiefs sat apart from their followers in +deep consultation: we did not approach near enough to hear their +discussion; but it ended by their paying us a high compliment for coming +amongst them. The young and active were busily employed in constructing a +strong stockade fort to annoy the enemy as he approached; others were +preparing their weapons, or practising the use of arms. + +The village itself was an object of extreme interest; and, after +contemplating the war-like preparations of the chiefs, we turned with +pleasure to gaze on the beauty of the surrounding country. In a plain, +surrounded by high hills, with a beautiful stream of water meandering +through it, was situated a group of huts; and many acres of cultivated +ground, neatly fenced and cleared, encircled them. Their harvest, +consisting of Indian corn, potatoes, and kumara, was now ready for +gathering, and all the women were busily occupied. As I from an eminence +looked down upon their labours, I could almost fancy I was in Italy, and +beheld the peasantry at work in their vineyards: but the adjacent camp +and naked warriors soon dissipated the illusion! + +On approaching the village we occasioned quite a commotion: the girls +brought forth baskets filled with cooked kumaras and peaches, while the +men erected a tent to screen us from the rays of the sun: indeed, all +seemed anxious to do something that should prove acceptable to us. We had +brought with us sufficient provision for a good dinner which was soon +cooked, and we invited them to partake of our fare, and a very merry and +noisy group we formed. After our repast, the chief warriors took us round +their camp, and exhibited to us all their means of defence, and the +different works they had thrown up. Where the use of artillery is +unknown, the principles of fortification are simple, and the New +Zealanders seem to possess a clear notion of the art: necessity being +with them the mother of invention. + +In the direction where the approach of the enemy was expected, they had +erected a strong square stockade, to molest the army; while the women and +children retired to the principal fort, which was very strong, and +situated at the summit of the highest hill: it had a breast-work all +round it about five feet high, and a broad ditch beyond that. The +fortress was large enough to contain several hundred men: it had a +spacious glacis in front, and every approach to it was so completely +exposed, that we thought even a body of regular troops, without +artillery, would have found it very difficult to storm; and to the New +Zealand warrior it seemed a wonderful and impregnable work. + +The chief who had the command of this fort was our old acquaintance Kiney +Kiney, a younger brother of King George's, who seemed proud of this +honour, and appeared highly delighted in showing us round, and +explaining everything to us; even condescending to ask our advice as to +any means of adding strength and security to the works. He listened +attentively to all our observations; and if he approved any alteration we +suggested he ordered it instantly to be carried into effect. I noticed a +thicket too near the fort, and told him I thought it might shelter a body +of men, and before I left the pa it was reduced to a heap of ashes. +Sentinels were posted in every direction to give notice of the approach +of an enemy. _Mr._ Kiney Kiney (as he was sometimes called) was +splendidly apparelled on this occasion: he had, by some means or other, +become possessed of a light infantry sabre, with all its paraphernalia of +belts and buckles; this was girded round his naked body, which gave him a +very gallant air, and, I have no doubt, was the envy and admiration of +all his followers. + + + + + +CHAPTER XL. + +A SHAM FIGHT. + + +After we had seen and approved all their preparations, we were treated +with a grand review and sham fight: they divided themselves into two +parties; one half the number took their station on a hill, and lay +concealed; the other party crouched on the plains to receive the attack, +all kneeling on one knee, with their eyes fixed on the spot whence they +expected the rush of their pretended enemies. In a moment, the concealed +party burst forth from their ambush, with a tremendous and simultaneous +shout, and the mock battle began with great fury. + +Nothing in nature can be imagined more horrible than the noise they make +on these occasions. I have heard, under circumstances of some peril, the +North American Indian war-whoop; but that is trifling compared with it +and their countenances are hideous beyond description. My principal +astonishment on these occasions was, that they did not actually kill each +other, or, at least, break each other's bones; for they seemed to strike +with all the fury and vigour of a real engagement; but they kept such +exact time, that at a moment's notice they all left off, and began joking +and laughing, except a very few, whom I observed to sneak away to wash +off some bloody witness, or to put a plaster on their broken skin. + +After these military and gymnastic exhibitions, they formed a grand +assembly, and the chiefs, as usual, made long speeches in rotation. This +rude parliament is one of the most beautiful features in savage +government: all public matters are discussed openly, grievances are +complained of, and justice is summarily administered. + +Thus, after spending a pleasant day, we rose to depart, and took an +affectionate leave of our entertainers, who were most anxious that we +should remain longer; but we thought we had better return to Kororarika, +where our property had been left. Most of the chiefs accompanied us to +our boats, and, after exhibiting various testimonies of their friendly +feeling towards us, they suffered us to depart. + +The day following this visit, we were alarmed by the appearance of two +war canoes crossing the bay: we waited their approach with considerable +anxiety: what few valuables we had with us we concealed about our +persons; but, as they neared our beach, our fears subsided, on finding +there were only a few men in each. Three chiefs (unarmed) landed, whom we +found to be Rivers and two of his near kinsmen, the most dreaded persons +of our expected invaders; but they immediately informed us they came on a +mission of peace, and, for that reason, had come to us unattended and +unarmed. + +We were most happy to hear this, and to find hostilities were again +likely to be deferred. Though we well knew the character of these men, +and that they were capable of the most treacherous acts, and the deepest +dissimulation, yet, their thus throwing themselves into our power, with +the olive branch in their hands, was irresistible; and we received them +with all the pomp we were capable of. We ordered a pig to be killed for +the feast, and requested them to remain for that night. In order to do +honour to our noble guests, and credit to our friend and ally King +George, we produced all the luxuries we had; and, in addition to the +pork, piles of pancakes and molasses were devoured: after this we gave +them tea, of which they are very fond; and, over our pipes, in the +evening, we informed them of the preparations the coalesced chiefs had +made for their reception, had their intentions been hostile. + +The next morning they embarked for the camp at Kawakawa, where, I +understood, they had considerable difficulty in arranging the "treaty of +peace": George having been so often alarmed, now that such great +preparations had been effected (as he well know the treacherous character +of his foe), he was unwilling to give up the hopes of conquest; however, +by the advice of the chiefs, it was finally settled amicably. George and +his friends accordingly returned to Kororarika, leaving a strong party at +the pa to finish the fortifications; and, though peace was made, our +party still kept themselves in a posture of defence. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLI. + +RETURN OF THE BRIG.--AN EXCITING INCIDENT. + + +We had been expecting with great anxiety the return of our brig; and, +soon after the termination of this affair, we had the pleasure of seeing +her enter the bay, after her cruise from Tongataboo and Tucopea. We found +that, on leaving the Bay of Islands, she had touched at the Thames, or +(as the natives call it) Hauraki, in order to land two chiefs, whom +Captain Dillon had taken thence two years before, and, in the confusion +occasioned by the disembarking, the visiting and congratulations of +friends (the vessel being under weigh), one chief was left on board, who +had not been discovered till all the canoes were out of sight, and there +remained no other alternative for him than to proceed on the whole +voyage. + +This was of no importance as it respected Tongataboo or Tucopea; but, on +his return to Kororarika, it was not only placing him, but all of us, in +a dreadful dilemma! His tribe being at deadly enmity with that of George, +the moment he was seen on deck (which was as soon as the vessel arrived), +George and all the men in the various canoes appeared to grow outrageous: +nothing would convince them but that we were in league with their +enemies, and had brought this spy into their territories from interested +motives; and they seemed resolved upon boarding the brig and executing +vengeance upon the unfortunate victim. To all our remonstrances George +replied, "Any other man than this I would have pardoned; but it was only +last year he killed, and helped to eat, my own uncle, whose death still +remains unrevenged: I cannot allow him to leave my country alive; if I +did, I should be despised for ever." + +I was greatly grieved at the circumstance; but, as I was somewhat of a +favourite with George, I succeeded in convincing him that it arose purely +from accident, and no intention of giving him offence; and he consented +to leave him on board, but cautioned us not to allow him to land. "If I +see him on shore he dies," he repeated several times. It would have been +well for us had we attended to this warning: we did not; and we +accordingly infringed on the customs of his country; thus placing +ourselves in a most perilous situation with the natives, and plainly +showing that the imprudence of our countrymen is invariably the cause of +quarrels and misunderstandings with these islanders. + +Some days having passed since this altercation with George, we thought no +more about it. The brig, from various causes, was certain to remain some +time in this harbour; and, as our New Zealand guest expressed a great +desire to go on shore one day, we consented to his accompanying us. We +had scarcely entered our house, when we had reason to repent the +imprudent step we had taken: all the natives were in commotion; +messengers were sent off to George to acquaint him with the circumstance, +and soon after we saw him, attended by all his relations, accoutred for +war; that is, quite naked, their skins oiled and painted, and armed with +muskets. Fury was in their looks and gestures as they hastened towards +our residence. We had scarcely time to shut and fasten our door, when +they made a rush to force it; and we had a severe struggle to keep them +out. At one period their rage became so ungovernable that we expected +every instant they would fire on us for preventing their entrance. The +man who was the cause of all this violence crept into our bedroom, and +kept out of sight; but he did not, at any period of the disturbance, +exhibit the least sign of fear, so accustomed are they from childhood to +these deadly frays. + +When the natives found we would not give up the man, but that they must +murder us before they could accomplish their revenge, the disappointment +rendered them nearly frantic. Our situation was most critical and +appalling; and nothing can be a more convincing proof of the influence +the Europeans have obtained over them, than that, at such a moment, they +should have refrained from setting fire to or pulling down the house, and +sacrificing every one of us. George again remonstrated with us, assuring +us it was his sacred duty to destroy this man, now he was in his +territory; a duty which, he said, he owed to the memory of his murdered +relations, and which must be performed, even though he should sacrifice +his "good English friends." He cautioned us not to stand between him and +his enemy, who must die before the sun set, pointing, at the same time, +to that luminary, and ordering his slaves to kindle a large fire to roast +him on. Finally, he and his friends planted themselves all round the +house to prevent the escape of their victim. Thus were we environed with +fifty or sixty well armed and exasperated savages. + +Our imprudence had given us no other alternative than either to give up +the man, who had put himself under our protection, or still to defend him +at the risk of our own lives: we instantly adopted the latter course. +Fortunately for us, a whaler was lying in the harbour, and a party of her +men were then on shore in the neighbourhood procuring water. We had sent +to them to explain the nature of our situation, and we saw them coming to +our assistance, though the numbers of natives at this time assembled +totally precluded all chance of our getting off by force; and a variety +of schemes were suggested as to how we should save the man's life, and +get clear of this difficulty, without sacrificing the good opinion we +were held in by the natives. + +We were well aware of the great importance it was to George to continue +on friendly terms with the English vessels touching here, as they not +only afforded him various sources of considerable profit, but the +intercourse gave him great importance in the eyes of his countrymen; and +we determined to make this circumstance a means of saving the man's life, +as we suspected that a threat of removing the seat of trade would soon +make him compromise his revenge for his interest. + +We therefore sent him a formal message, that, if he was resolved to kill +his enemy in our house, we had determined not to prevent him, but that we +would not stay to witness such a cruelty; and that we should immediately +remove every thing we possessed on board ship, leave the Bay of Islands, +and seek the protection and shelter of some other chief; and, if he +compelled us to do so, no other British ship would ever be seen at +Kororarika. + +We accordingly ordered the ship's boats ashore, and our things were +quickly conveyed into them. I trembled when I looked on the natives, and +saw the rage depicted on their countenances; and I, trusting in +Providence to avert from me the dreadful death with which I saw myself +threatened, prepared myself for some fatal catastrophe. Tumultuous +discussions ensued, and it at length became difficult for the elders to +restrain the impetuosity of the younger chiefs. Fortunately for us, their +vehement speeches soon produced a violent feud amongst themselves. Mutual +upbraidings took place: each accused the other of being the cause of +quarrel, and the consequent loss of the white men. This was precisely the +state of things we wished for; and, while we were waiting the return of +the last boat, a messenger came from the elder chiefs, to propose an +amicable adjustment of the affair. The chiefs promised that, if we would +reland our goods and remain with them, the man we protected should go +without molestation on board the brig; but, if we persevered in leaving +them, the man should be killed before our eyes. This was what we +expected; and though I really now wished to leave them, being quite tired +of these perpetual broils, we assented, in order that the man's life +might be spared When they found we agreed to their proposal, they +retreated out of sight, thereby carefully avoiding polluting their eyes +by looking upon their enemy. + +No sooner had they disappeared than I visited the poor fellow who had +been the cause of all this disturbance: he seemed half dead with anxiety; +but I soon revived him with the information that all was settled +amicably; and we lost no time in getting him off, which we safely +accomplished, though, as the boat which conveyed him left the shore, a +bullet whizzed close by me, aimed, no doubt, by some young fiery chief, +who had concealed himself in the bushes for that purpose. + +During this transaction I witnessed the natural kindness of heart and +disinterested tenderness of the female sex: no matter how distressing the +circumstance or appalling the danger, they are, in all countries, the +last to forsake man. While the enraged chiefs were yelling outside our +house, and all our exertions could scarcely prevent them from making a +forcible entry, all the women were sitting with, and trying to comfort +the unhappy cause of this calamity. They had cooked for him a delicate +dinner, brought him fruit, and were using every means by which they could +keep up his spirits and buoy up his hopes, confidently assuring him the +white men would not yield him up to his ferocious foes. Notwithstanding +all their exertions, he was miserable, till informed by me of his safety; +and I received the warmest thanks, and even blessings, from his "fair" +friends, as if I had conferred upon each a personal favour. + +The man being now in safety, we determined to demand satisfaction for the +affront which had been put upon us, and we sent George word we could not +again receive him into our house unless he made an ample apology for his +behaviour, painting in strong colours how deeply our feelings had been +wounded, and how much this indignity had lowered us in the esteem of all +our acquaintances. + +After some consultation among their leading men upon the subject of our +message, King George presented himself at the door of our hut, and, in +the most humble manner, surrendered his musket; and shortly after his +brother Kiney Kiney did the same. Thus we gained our point, and received +both payment and apologies for their violent behaviour. Friendship being +thus restored, we soon gave them back their muskets, to their infinite +surprise and satisfaction. + +On reflection, I felt quite convinced that the natives liked us the +better for what we had done: it afforded them also a lesson of humanity, +for they all well knew we had no other object in view when we stood +forward to defend the poor fellow, who had relied upon our promise of +protecting him. Several chiefs told us that they greatly admired our +principles, and should always feel themselves quite safe with men like +us, who would risk their own lives rather than break their word, or +desert a friend in the hour of danger. + +At the close of this eventful day we received another token of peace, +which was in its manner simple and affecting, and not such as could have +been expected from a nation of savages. A procession of young girls +approached our door, each bearing a basket: some were filled with nicely +cooked potatoes, others with various fruits and flowers, which they set +down before us, chanting, in a low voice, a song in praise of our recent +exploit; a man bearing a very large fish closed the procession; he +repeated the song also. We were informed that these presents had been +sent by King George as a ratification of friendship, for the New +Zealanders never think a reconciliation perfected till you have again +eaten and drank with them. + +Two important conclusions may be drawn from the termination of this +affair: first, that if a spirited interference takes place on the part of +the Europeans, murder may be at times prevented, as we actually rescued +a mortal foe from the vengeance of an exasperated enemy; and, secondly, +their efforts to restore amity proves their extreme desire to have white +people settle amongst them. + +About a week after this event we witnessed a most extraordinary ceremony, +which partook more of the ludicrous than the horrible, though I have no +doubt it was regarded by the natives as a most solemn affair. For some +days we had been honoured by the presence of a great priest, or one of +their chief tabooers; he came for the purpose of discussing with the +chiefs the affairs of the nation, particularly the approaching war with +the tribe of the Thames; and the day set apart for the discussion of the +principal points was ushered in by a rich feast, not of pork nor fish, +nor even the kumara, but of two old, sturdy, large dogs! + +I was much surprised on rising one morning to see Kiney Kiney, with +several chiefs of the highest rank, stripped, and performing the offices +of the meanest slave (the washing the feet of the pilgrims by cardinals +and persons of rank in Rome came instantly to my remembrance). These +chiefs were making a fire and cooking. I was still more astonished, on +approaching them, to find the nature of the food they were singeing and +scraping. This bow-wow meat they were preparing after the fashion of +pork: pigs being the only quadruped they have ever seen cooked, they of +course are not acquainted with any other way of dressing the animal +creation, and a sad bungling job they made of it; for the dogs were old +and tough, and the hair adhered most pertinaciously to the skin, and in +many places would not come off. + +There were only five persons allowed to partake of this delicious meal, +which was, as well as the five partakers, strictly taboo'd for the whole +of that day: and we strongly recommended them to hold a similar feast +every day, until they had cleared the country of these canine nuisances, +the dogs being the greatest pests they have. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLII. + +WAR-LIKE EXPEDITION TO THE THAMES. + + +One morning I was roused out of a sound sleep by continued discharges of +musketry from a number of war canoes. I jumped up instantly in alarm; but +I soon discovered them to be Atoi and his party, who had been absent +about two months on a war-like expedition to the Thames, and they were now +returning successful. + +I had witnessed the departure of this expedition, and considered it in +the light of a reconnoitring party. I could not make out what the real +object was they had been in search of; but, wherever they had been, they +had been victorious, for they now returned with quantities of plunder, +human heads, human flesh, and many prisoners! After the dance and sham +fight had been duly gone through, they proceeded to land their cargo of +spoil. First came a group of miserable creatures, women and children, +torn by violence from their native homes, henceforth to be the slaves of +their conquerors; some were miserably wounded and lacerated, others +looked half-starved, but all seemed wretched and dejected. + +The women of Kororarika, with their usual humanity, instantly surrounded +them, and endeavoured to console them, and then shed abundance of tears +over them. I enquired of one of the warriors what they had done with the +male prisoners: he coolly replied, they had all been eaten, except some +"titbits," which had been packed up in the baskets and brought on shore, +in order to regale particular friends and favourites! + +They had also brought with them several heads, which they have the art of +preparing in their native ovens, so as not to disfigure the countenance +nor injure the figure tatoo'd upon them. One of these, the skull of a +distinguished chief, seemed to afford them amazing delight. Most of our +people had known him well, and several of his near relations were +present: but cruel war seemed to have eradicated every feeling of +humanity; for all appeared to contemplate this ghastly object with great +satisfaction. These heads were decorated profusely with yellow and red +ribbons, and with white feathers: they were then stuck upon short poles, +and placed, with great ceremony, in front of the old Queen Turero's +house; who, sitting at the door, received this token of respect with +approval and condescension. + +The group altogether formed an interesting picture of savage manners, in +which ferocity was strongly blended with humanity, for their respect and +devotion to the old sybil was manifested as feelingly as their hatred +towards those whom they call their enemies: in fact, the young warrior +chiefs presenting to her (as was the case with several) their first +spoils of conquest, reminded me of young lions bringing part of the +spoils of the chase to their aged dam. + +In this affray only a few of Atoi's party had been wounded, and +twenty-five of the enemy had been killed. It was a fortunate circumstance +for the wretched prisoners that none of the conquering party had been +killed; for, if that had been the case, there would have been a dreadful +slaughter of the captives on their arrival at the village, an act of +cruelty never dispensed with. This sight I dreaded I should encounter +when I went to witness the disembarkation; but, hoping that my presence +might be some restraint upon their barbarities, I awaited the result with +as much firmness as I was master of. + +[Illustration: Old Pa and Whalers at Bay of Islands.] + + + + + +CHAPTER XLIII. + +VISITS OF WHALERS. + + +Two South Sea whalers were at this time lying in the bay: the Anne, from +London, a full ship; and the Lynx, from Sydney. Since I have been living +here, five vessels of this description have visited us; and many others +would have touched here but for the want of proper regulations, and a +dread of the dispositions of the natives. There being here no +representatives of the British Government, the crews of whalers are often +involved in disputes with the natives. This want of Government support +has also frightened other vessels away; their commanders preferring going +on to Port Jackson, where they half ruin themselves by the unavoidable +expenses they incur. Even when their vessels have anchored here, the +thoughtlessness and eccentricity of this class of men, when they are +under no restraint or control, has sometimes not only led to disputes +with the natives, but with each other, which eventually have proved +equally detrimental. In short, New Zealand is a place of such vast +importance to so many lucrative branches of British trade, that it must +be well worthy the speedy attention of our Government at home. + +We spoke frequently to our friend George, as well as to several other of +their powerful chiefs, respecting the erection of a small fort with a +British garrison, and of permanently hoisting the English flag. They +always expressed the utmost delight at the idea; and, from all I have +seen of them, I feel convinced it would prove a most politic measure. +George (who had visited Port Jackson) said: "This country is finer than +Port Jackson; yet the English go and settle there. Our people are much +better than the black natives of New South Wales, and yet you English +live amongst them in preference to us." + +The ship Anne, Captain Gray, was out three years, and during that period +she never entered a civilised port. She had touched twice at this bay, +and had cruised four months on the coast of Japan, off Timor, through the +Sandwich and Friendly Islands, and passed several times over the Pacific +Ocean, in order to obtain a cargo of sperm oil, which she at length +accomplished; and was at this time here to refit for her voyage home to +England round Cape Horn, having picked up most of her cargo off this +port. + +For twelve years past, notwithstanding all the disadvantages, this has +been the favourite resort for ships in the above-mentioned trade. Here, +surrounded with savages and cannibals, they heave down their vessels, +land the cargoes and stores, and carry on work, both on board and on +shore, in tolerable security. The safety of the harbour, the facility of +wooding and watering, the supplies of pigs and potatoes, tempt them to +run the risk of placing themselves in the power of capricious and +barbarous people. + +It has been imagined that the residence of missionaries would have the +effect of civilising the natives, and adding to the safety of ships +touching here; but experience fully proves the fallacy of such an +expectation. These people, abstracted by their own gloomy reflections, +look with contempt on all who are in the pursuit of "worldly wealth"; and +regard the arrival of a whaler as an enemy coming to interfere with the +spiritual interests of "their flock," as they term the inhabitants, +though I never yet saw one proselyte of their converting. + +They never visit a whaler except on a Sunday, and then it is to beg for +the benefit of their society. It cannot, therefore, be expected that much +sympathy can exist between parties, where the cold formality of one +excites the contempt and disgust of the other. + +The ship Anne, of which I have formerly spoken, arrived here lately from +Wahoo, one of the Sandwich Islands, which possesses the advantage of a +British consul. The pacific disposition and orderly government of the +natives do not require a British garrison, or any war-like force; and of +the excellent effects produced by this representation of our Government +Captain Gray speaks with admiration and enthusiasm. The harbours were +crowded with shipping; houses, nay, even streets, were beginning to +appear; the savage character of the people was gradually subsiding into +industrious and peaceful occupations; and comfort and prosperity were +spreading their benign influence over the whole island: yet Wahoo is not +nearly so well situated as a rendezvous for South Sea whalers as New +Zealand; at least so I have been informed by all the captains of those +ships who have conversed with me on the subject. + +It is rather a remarkable and novel circumstance that the natives, who +have been now for fourteen or fifteen years in close intercourse and +carrying on traffic with Europeans, should not, in the course of that +period, understand the nature and value of money; a laughable instance of +which occurred to us a few days since. A native came to our house with a +serious countenance and business-like manner, and said he wished to +purchase a musket: we asked to see what he had brought in exchange for +one, when, with great ceremony, he produced a copper penny piece in the +way of payment. The poor fellow had, doubtless, seen some one pass a +doubloon, and had mistaken his penny for one; as a doubloon is about the +price given for a musket in our regulated list of charges. We, of course, +refrained from laughter; but he was quite astonished and mortified when +he was made to understand we could not trade with him. He took a stroll +round the beach, offering his penny, by way of barter, to every white man +he met, but everywhere with equally bad success. + + + + +CHAPTER XLIV. + +VISIT OF TWO SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS. + + +When our brig left Tucopea she brought away two natives of that island, +who had most earnestly entreated the captain to take them off, and leave +them upon any other land he pleased, as, according to their statement, +Tucopea was so overstocked with inhabitants that it was scarcely possible +to find subsistence; and the scarcity of food had become so general, that +parents destroyed their children rather than witness their sufferings +from famine. Captain Kent, therefore, from motives of compassion, +received them on board his ship; and, not having touched at any inhabited +spot, brought them with him here. Their extraordinary appearance excited +a great deal of surprise, both among Europeans and New Zealanders. They +appeared simple, timid creatures, though stout and comely, but their hair +was unlike anything I had before beheld, as in length it reached below +the waist, and was so abundantly thick as completely to conceal their +faces. By some curious chemical process which the natives of Tucopea have +discovered, they render their hair a bright sulphur colour; and, as this +mass of yellow hangs over their faces and shoulders, they bear the most +striking resemblance to the lion monkeys of the Brazils. + +These poor creatures, upon landing, shook with fear, and trembled greatly +when they beheld the New Zealanders, whose character for cannibalism had +reached even their remote island: when our friend George went up to them, +and lifted up (in order to examine closely) the curious mass of hair in +which they were enveloped, they burst into a passionate fit of tears, and +ran up to us for protection. The New Zealanders, with characteristic +cunning, perceiving the horror they had created, tormented them still +more cruelly, by making grotesque signs, as if they were about to +commence devouring them; and, at the same time (like most savages), +evincing the most sovereign contempt for them, from their apparent +pusillanimity. + +After they had been some days on shore, we had a very diverting scene +with them, which exhibited strongly the great difference there is in the +nature of the two classes of savages we now had such opportunities of +observing. I had brought my violin from Sydney, on which I used to play +occasionally. The New Zealanders generally expressed the greatest dislike +to it; and my companions used to rally me much on the subject, saying it +was not that the savages did not like music, but it was my discordant +playing that frightened them away, which might be true. It was, however, +a useful discovery for us all, as I often took that method of civilly +driving them out of our house when we grew tired of their company. But +when I began to play before the Tucopeans, the effect it had instantly +upon them was ludicrous in the extreme. They sprang up, and began dancing +most furiously; at the same time, so waving their heads about as to keep +their long hair extended at its fullest length: as I played faster, they +quickened their pace. A lively Scotch reel seemed to render them nearly +frantic; and when I ceased playing, they threw themselves down on the +floor quite exhausted, and unable to articulate a word. I have observed +(generally speaking) that savages are not much affected by music; but +these two Tucopeans were excited to a most extraordinary degree. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLV. + +THE DEATH OF HONGI. + + +We at length received authentic intelligence of the death of the +celebrated Hongi. Finding his dissolution fast approaching, he convened a +meeting of all the neighbouring chiefs; and as many as could reach the +spot in time attended. The wounded warrior expired, surrounded by the men +he had so frequently led to battle and conquest. After the numerous and +desperate risks he had run, the many encounters he had sustained with +various enemies, it appeared extraordinary to us Europeans that he should +die quietly in his hut. It is the custom to keep a guarded and mysterious +silence relating to the subjects which are spoken of by a dying chief. I +questioned several who had attended Hongi: all spoke with the greatest +solemnity of his last moments. One sentence (uttered by him) was all I +could obtain after much manoeuvring, and that was spoken but a few +minutes before he breathed his last, which was, that "Shulitea (viz., our +friend George) would not live one week longer than himself"; but, as our +patron was in perfect health at the time, and all seemed peaceful around +him, I only laughed at the improbability of the prophecy being fulfilled. + +The natives of New Zealand pay the greatest respect to courage and +war-like talents: these were the only distinguishing characteristics of +Hongi; yet, by possessing these, he was more feared, and had a greater +number of followers, than any other chief in the island. His hereditary +possessions were but small, and his name was little known; yet his +undaunted courage, his skill, and success in many sanguinary battles, +made him, at length, a most powerful chief, and obtained for him that +which is considered wealth in this country, namely, an immense number of +slaves. In his last moments he was attended by more men of rank than had +ever before assembled to witness the dissolution of a warrior, and this +is considered the greatest proof of attention and respect one chieftain +can show towards another. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLVI. + +A TRIBAL CONFLICT. + + +Our brig now sailed for Hokianga to take in a cargo of planks; and my +friend, Mr. Shand, being tired of wandering, accompanied her; but I, +being still anxious to procure more sketches of this interesting country, +determined to remain as long as possible, and to take one more walk +across the island, and join the brig by the time she was loaded. I was +preparing to start on my last pedestrian tour, when a chain of events +occurred which threw all the tribes into confusion. Bloodshed and +devastation stared me in the face from all quarters; and from the state +of security I had imagined myself to be in, I was roused to behold myself +beset with difficulties; to crown which, our brig, which would have been +a place of safety and refuge, was now on the opposite side of the island. + +Arising from a trifling circumstance, which was partly caused by us, +though innocently, Pomare's only son had lost his life; and, as is usual +among savage tribes, the severest retaliation soon took place. + +By relating the particulars, the reader will perceive how easily the +war-cry is raised among these turbulent savages. + +Pomare's only surviving son. Tiki, was a very finely-formed, handsome +young man, of twenty years of age, and he had made an arrangement with a +captain of a ship here to supply him with a certain number of hogs. +Accordingly, accompanied by a party of his friends, he started into the +interior for the purpose of collecting them. In making his selection, he +not only proceeded to drive off some of his own, but actually laid claim +to, and began marching away with, some belonging to his neighbours. The +right owners remonstrated with him in vain. He, being an insolent, +over-bearing young fellow, persisted in his unjust claims, and set them +all at defiance. They were compelled to yield up their property, as his +tribe was a most powerful one; and Tiki was driving away the stolen hogs +in triumph, when a sudden stop was put to his predatory career. Finding +words were of no avail to induce the young man to restore the swine, one +of the injured party had recourse to a musket. A bullet, aimed from +behind a tree, killed Tiki on the spot; but from whose hand it came could +only be conjectured. The greatest confusion instantly took place. His +companions, being well armed, the war-cry was immediately raised; and the +fray becoming general, seven more lives were lost. + +When the account of this melancholy affair reached our beach, everyone +flew to arms, even all the women, for the young man was a general +favourite. The war-cry spread in every direction. "Here," they exclaimed, +"is the last of the Pomare family killed treacherously, a warrior related +to and connected with every chief of consequence in the country, and a +nephew of the great Shulitea." The cry for blood and revenge was +universal. I must confess that, added to the danger it placed me in, I +was much shocked when I heard of the fate of poor Tiki, for he was one of +our particular friends, and had passed many an evening in our hut. I had +taken leave of him only the day before, when he had set out, full of +health and spirits, on this hog expedition, which had terminated thus +fatally. + +The death of this young man excited the highest indignation in the minds +of his countrymen, as well as in those of his numerous intimate friends +and relations; for a report was industriously circulated that he had +fallen by the hands of a slave. This was considered by his tribe as a +degradation infinitely worse than the murder itself. The offended chiefs +assembled on our beach, with all their followers, armed: and none +appeared more indignant at the transaction than our friend George, who, +with his brother Kiney Kiney, placed themselves at the head of the party, +to revenge the insult which had been offered them. + +The night before they started on this expedition, George spent the +evening with us. He was in particularly low spirits, and said he did not +at all like the business he was going upon: but, as he was the nearest +relation of the deceased, and the eldest of the tribe, he went in hopes +of being able to prevent a great effusion of blood, and also to restrain +the impetuosity of the young men. Little did we then think he would be +the first victim; although his unusual depression of mind brought to my +remembrance the prophecy of Hongi, and, spite of my endeavours to banish +my forebodings, I felt convinced that the prediction would in all +probability be fulfilled. + +Three days had elapsed from the time the avenging party had gone on their +mission, when, at midnight, a messenger, faint and nearly exhausted, +arrived on our beach with the following dreadful intelligence; and that +night no other sounds were heard than those of agony and woe, the yelling +of women, and the shrieks of slaves. + +The substance of the man's information was, that George and the offending +party had met; but, as several days had passed since the murder of their +friend, their feelings were in some degree appeased, and they had +contented themselves with a general plunder of whatever property their +enemies possessed. They had spared their lives, and the outrage was +considered as atoned for. The chiefs were on their return home, laden +with spoil, when, like other coalesced armies, disagreements began to +take place among themselves, and discord long smothered, broke out in +every quarter of the camp. + +George, the principal person of their party, was the one marked to be +dissatisfied with. All were jealous of him, in consequence of his +possessions at Kororarika giving him such a decided advantage over every +other tribe, by his trade and intercourse with Europeans. It is probable, +also, that as the other tribes went forth with an intention to fight, +they were resolved not to be disappointed, and therefore determined to +create a feud among themselves, rather than return home devoid of the +pleasures or the trophies of a combat. + +Some irritating language had been uttered by both sides, when an accident +of a fatal nature took place, which produced an instantaneous and general +appeal to arms. At the close of the day a halt was made, as usual, and +each party began erecting their temporary huts to pass the night in. One +of George's wives, assisted by a little boy, his nephew, was busily +engaged in constructing one; arms and baggage of every description being +strewed about in all directions. At this period a lad took up one of +George's muskets, and began to play with it; but not understanding the +management of it, he, by his injudicious handling, accidentally +discharged the piece, and killed both the wife and nephew, the ball +passing through both their bodies. + +The sensation produced by this unfortunate accident may readily be +conceived. As the woman who was killed was related to the tribe who had +been disputing with George all day, her death furnished an ostensible +motive for open war; and before the real cause of the accident could be +explained, another shot was fired, which wounded a chief of the name of +Moo-de-wy in the thigh. This proved the signal for a general fight: each +party ran to their arms, ranged themselves under their different leaders, +and a general discharge of muskets immediately took place. + +Almost at the beginning of the combat George received a shot, which broke +both his legs: his brother and friends endeavoured to support him in +their arms. It being then nearly dark, added much to the confusion, as it +was difficult to distinguish friend from foe; indeed, so sudden had been +the onset, that many could scarcely have been aware of the cause of the +contest. But our unhappy friend, who seemed particularly marked out in +this unfortunate affray, soon after received another bullet, which struck +him on the throat, and terminated his existence; thus dying before a week +had passed since the death of his rival Hongi. I heard from one of his +friends who supported him in his last moments, that he died like a hero: +finding both his legs were broken, and that consequently he was totally +unable to move, he begged those friends who were about him to leave him +to his fate, and either again enter the fight, or make their escape +while they yet had time. He then gave his musket to one, took off his +mantle to present to another, and while thus in the act of exhorting his +friends and distributing amongst them his tokens of regard, he received +his death-wound, and expired without a groan. When George fell, a general +flight took place; and though the engagement had lasted but a short time, +great numbers had fallen on both sides. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLVII. + +THE DEATH OF KING GEORGE AND ITS CONSEQUENCES. + + +This news caused mourning and lamentation along our beach, and filled all +the Europeans with dismay. We could not calculate the extent of the +injury we might receive, but felt certain we should be considerable +sufferers in some way or other. The light of day seemed to add to, rather +than to diminish, the moans of George's faithful subjects. The violent +sobbings from every dwelling were most dismal. Groups were scattered +about, forming small crying parties, and cutting their skins deeply with +knives and pieces of broken glass; in short, nothing was heard but +yelling and groaning, and nothing was seen but streams of blood! + +But however shocked I might feel by the train of accidents and deaths +which had made such cruel havoc amongst my friends, and notwithstanding +my sincere grief and regret for the fate of poor George, who was a most +humane and intelligent chief, and particularly kind to all the English; +the predicament in which I was now placed demanded all my energies, for I +felt that I stood in a situation of great danger. + +I have before noticed their barbarous custom, on the death of a chief, of +plundering his family and friends. As we had always been considered as a +part of George's family, living under his protection, adopted by him, +and admitted into his tribe, I entertained great suspicions that we also +should be sufferers by the general plunder about to take place: besides, +I was so circumstanced as to be obliged to cross the country with all my +goods, and my route lay through the territories of all those chiefs who +had been fighting against George; and I was at no loss to guess in what +light they would regard me. Depending, too securely, on the general +tranquility, I had not sent my luggage by sea, as I might have done, and +which would have saved me great anxiety, as I should have ventured alone +without fear, but could not manage to carry what I possessed; and to +engage any to convey them was an impossibility, for the moment I made the +proposition to any (even the meanest of the slaves) to accompany me, they +ran off into the bush, nor could any entreaty, presents, or threats +induce them to venture with me; so, for security, I removed all the +property I had, and went with it on board the Marianne, whaler. + +For three days after the death of George, all gave themselves up to +grief; no work was done, and not an individual was to be seen but in an +agony of tears. I began to feel strangely affected with melancholy +myself, when, on the fourth morning, a scene of bustle took place, and +low spirits were banished by tumult, noise, and confusion. + +At six o'clock on that morning we discovered upwards of twenty sail of +war canoes, crowded with armed warriors, coming into the bay. What their +intentions were we could not imagine; but for fear of the worst, the +ships in the harbour shotted their guns, and when the canoes were abreast +of us, we fired a blank one over their heads. On this they all stopped, +and we saw some stir amongst them: at length a very small canoe left the +main body, and pulled directly towards us; it contained the chief persons +of the expedition: they came on board, and assured us they meant no harm +to any persons; they were merely some of the late George's friends, who +were going to pay a visit of condolence to his relations; and, after +making a most hearty breakfast with us, they went on shore, and we +accompanied them. + +Whether the account they gave of themselves was correct, or the reverse, +we knew not at the time; but we felt assured their intentions were not +hostile towards us Europeans, and their quarrels with each other we were +determined not to interfere in. We soon discovered their falsehood, for +George's eldest daughter informed me that amongst the chiefs who landed +with us were several of the most inveterate foes of her father, and that +they were only restrained from committing the most dreadful outrages, and +carrying off all her relations as slaves, by witnessing the many friends +of George by whom they were surrounded. The day was spent in savage +dancing, yelling, making speeches, and debating as to who the proper +person was to succeed George in his dignities: several times I thought +the affair would end in blows. George's relation, Rivers, made great +exertions "to keep the peace," and finally, by force of argument, +succeeded. It was at length unanimously agreed that Kiney Kiney was to +succeed his brother, and that Rivers should take the command until the +time of Kiney Kiney's mourning for the loss of George should be +completed. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLVIII. + +DEPARTURE FROM BAY OF ISLANDS. + + +After these important matters were amicably disposed of, I made a sign to +Rivers, and, separating him from the crowd, I explained to him the nature +of my situation, and asked his assistance in getting me safely over to +Hokianga. He replied, there would certainly be great danger in attempting +it; but I soon discovered that he magnified the difficulties in order to +increase his demand for payment, for even the greatest chiefs have here +their price. He said (and I had every reason to think he was correct) +that I ran no risk of being molested by any chiefs, like himself, who +would always protect rather than molest every European; but that the +country being in such a state of commotion, in consequence of the late +events, it was full of runaway slaves, who always took advantage of such +times to make their escape; and if I chanced to fall in with any of them, +I should be exposed to great peril: "However (he added), keep up your +spirits; I have two confidential slaves, who shall conduct you over, and +carry your luggage, if you will make me a present of a stocking full of +powder, a bag of small shot, and a powder-horn." He also proposed, as he +himself was going to the Kirikiri, and thence to a village in the +interior, to meet a large assemblage of chiefs, in order to talk over the +late tragical events, that I should journey the first part of my way +with him, in his own canoe. + +Accordingly, after having made preparations for my departure, I took +leave of all my friends at the Bay of Islands, both civilised and savage. +I must say I felt considerable regret when I found myself really going to +take final leave of several native families, with whom I had been on +terms of intimacy since my residence here, from whom I had received many +proofs of personal regard, and whom, I felt convinced, I should never +meet or hear of more; none I regretted parting with more than the family +of poor Shulitea; the mere sight of me seemed to rekindle all their grief +for the loss of their kinsman, and to remind them more forcibly than ever +of his tragical fate. His mother, old Turero, in point of grief, had +rivalled Niobe; she had never ceased weeping and lamenting from the time +she heard of her son's death, and had twice attempted to strangle +herself. But even in the midst of her passionate sorrow, I could scarcely +refrain from laughing, while observing her care and anxiety to get all +she could from me. After deploring the sad fate of her dear son, "You +know," she continued, "you promised him that you would send him a +handsome new musket from Sydney; and now, poor fellow, he is dead; and +cannot shoot with it; but then you must remember that his brother Kiney +Kiney is still alive, and he can shoot with it; and poor George would +wish that his brother should have his new musket." This speech I felt +quite irresistible; therefore, in order to comfort the old queen, I +promised that I would send the musket for her second son; which +declaration seemed to afford her great consolation, and considerably +abated the violence of her grief. + +Just at the dawn of morning we started from the bay in Rivers' canoe, +accompanied by his wife, one child, and the two stout slaves he had +mentioned to me. My luggage, which consisted of one leathern portmanteau +and my bed, was placed in the centre. I had also provided myself with a +small basket of cooked meat, with bread, and a small bottle of brandy, +which was given me by the captain of one of the whalers. The day broke +around us with more than usual brightness; the dewy mists of night were +just rising from the waters, and the huge and abrupt forms of the +mountains were beginning to develop themselves; flights of wild ducks and +stray birds skimmed rapidly by us. The thoughts that crowded my mind were +strange and varied, while contemplating scenes of such tranquil beauty as +were now presented, glowing with the tints of the rising sun. I +contrasted these with the difficulties and dangers I might have to +encounter from hordes of ferocious savages, who, now flushed with +conquest, were plotting murder and destruction against each other: even a +glance at my companions banished all peaceful illusions. While the wife, +son, and slaves were using the paddles with the greatest exertions, +Rivers was carefully examining his weapons. The beauty of the morning and +the romantic scenery was unnoticed: his thoughts were directed solely to +contemplating the depth and the width of my stocking of powder, which +seemed to afford him infinite satisfaction. He had with him a beautiful +double-barrelled gun, and a very good Tower musket; and seeing so many +wild ducks fly past, he drew the bullet out of one of the barrels of the +former, and, with some of my stock of small shot, fired occasionally +amongst them. + +At about eight o'clock a light sea breeze sprang up: they then set their +sail, and all went to sleep, excepting one slave, who was employed to +steer the canoe; so that I had ample time to ruminate upon my solitary +and perilous situation. The tide failed us at twelve o'clock, and we then +went on shore, kindled a fire, and soon collected such a supply of +shell-fish as furnished us a splendid repast. Here we remained till the +flood-tide set in strong, when, again hoisting our sail, we arrived at +the Kirikiri about sunset. + +I here found the missionaries in the greatest consternation and dismay, +and learned that it was one of the chiefs of Hokianga who had shot +George, and they dreaded lest the result of that deed should be that the +whole of the savage tribes on that part of the island would be opposed to +each other; that combats would ensue; and which side soever might be +victorious, it would prove equally injurious to them, as they had +settlements on both sides of the island. But their greatest alarm was +occasioned by their possessions at Hokianga, as the most violent +depredations were there being committed; and as this was the very point +of my destination, the news was not very consolatory to me. "So anxious," +said one of "the brethren" to me, "were we to inform our Christian +brethren of our danger, that we actually gave a _warm piece_ to a native +to carry a letter over to you, although that is strictly contrary to our +orders." I expressed a desire to know what he meant by a _warm piece_; he +kicked his foot against the stock of a gun I had at the time in my hand; +and, looking at me with an expression of the greatest contempt, said, "It +is what _you worldly_ folks call a musket!" + +They were making considerable preparations to repair to the great meeting +of the chiefs, to which Rivers was journeying. This was a wise and +politic measure for them to pursue; and they were highly delighted to +have such an addition to their party as this well-known chief; and though +they would not acknowledge it, their satisfaction was very visible. I +earnestly requested them to inform me candidly, from all they had heard, +whether they thought I might, with safety, venture across the country; +but I could get nothing from them but vague and mysterious answers: one +thing, however, they made me very clearly understand; which was, that +they neither cared for me nor for my drawings; that their own safety +engrossed all their thoughts; and that a worldly-minded, misguided +creature like me was but as dust in the balance, compared to such godly +people as themselves, who were now placed in jeopardy. They, without +scruple, applied quotations from the Scriptures to themselves, such as, +"Why do the heathen so furiously rage," etc., etc. + +My necessities compelled me to request a favour from them, which was, +that they would allow one of their boys, who could speak English, to +accompany me, as our loads were heavy; and his being known to belong to +their establishment I thought might be some protection; but the short +answer of the monosyllable "_No_" soon made me repent having asked it. I +spread my bed in one of their empty rooms; and started at daybreak next +morning, with my two native slaves. I could not banish from my +remembrance the inhospitable conduct of these missionaries; they never +even inquired whether I had any provision for a journey they themselves +would not have dared to undertake, which was evident by their giving a +native a _warm piece_ for merely taking a letter for them. As my shoes +were nearly worn out, and I had a long distance to go, over execrable +roads, I had intended asking them for a new pair, as they had abundance +of everything of the kind sent to them from England, to distribute to the +needy (and I fully came under that description of character); but finding +them so selfish and cold-hearted, and meeting with one refusal, I +refrained, and set off, literally almost barefooted. + + + + + +CHAPTER XLIX. + +THE JOURNEY TO HOKIANGA. + + +We journeyed on all day by a road I had never been before, my attendants +evidently taking by-paths to avoid meeting stragglers or runaways. I was +well laden, having to carry my musket and my basket of provisions; and +each of my men, in addition to the loads I had placed on his shoulders, +bore a basket of potatoes. Once or twice, during our route, we saw some +persons at a distance, and I was sorry to notice the great alarm it +occasioned to my companions, as I now had every reason to apprehend, +that, in case of danger, they would slip off their burdens, make their +escape, and leave me and my baggage to my fate, which the missionaries +had told me they considered a thing very likely to happen. Once we heard +a great firing of muskets, which I afterwards ascertained to be the _feu +de joie_ fired at the first meeting of the chiefs, at their grand +assembling in the neutral village. + +At night, we arrived safe at Patuone's Village, where I had slept on my +first journey across the island; but it now presented a very different +appearance to what it had done then; instead of the tumult I had formerly +heard, all was silence; the numerous families then there, all fully +occupied, were exchanged for a few old surly-looking slaves, and the +huts were all deserted. The inhabitants, in consequence of the rumour of +approaching war, having betaken themselves to one of their fortified pas, +I had no alternative but to pass the night with these suspicious-looking +creatures, who, feeling themselves beyond the control of their cruel +masters, soon gave way to their own vile passions, and became most +impertinent and intrusive--taking every advantage of my loneliness to +indulge their curiosity and familiarity. + +On my arrival, I had deposited my things in one of the empty huts, and +spread my bed, hoping to enjoy the luxury of a few hours' repose after +the fatigue and great anxieties of the day; but these fellows would force +themselves into the hut I had chosen, where they lighted a fire, and sat +chattering around it all the night long. Finding that I did not appear +alarmed at their intrusion or noise, they kept doing everything they +could think of to rouse my fears. They threatened to break open my +portmanteau; and one old wretch sharpened his knife, and made motions as +though he were going to cut my throat and eat me. I knew my only chance +of safety was not to betray any sign of apprehension; so I forced a +laugh, and made them believe I considered their tricks an excellent joke. +I gave them all my tobacco to keep them in good humour; but I passed a +most miserable night, nearly suffocated with smoke, distracted with their +noise, and annoyed by vermin of every description. + +I was most happy when daybreak gave me an excuse for leaving these brutal +savages, and resuming my journey. Every step I took brought before me +proofs of the horrors of war: villages which had been crowded, were now +entirely desolate, and, in many instances, burned to the ground. On that +spot where I had left a party of enterprising Scotchmen busily employed +in sawing timber, with crowds of natives assisting them, all was quiet +and totally deserted, with the exception of a few nearly starved, +wretched-looking dogs, who, hearing someone approach, came out, and tried +to bark at us, but were too weak to utter a sound. + + + + + +CHAPTER L. + +EUROPEAN PREPARATIONS FOR DEFENCE. + + +Our march along the banks of the river was through a most beautiful +country; but all the inhabitants had fled; their plantations were in a +most luxuriant state; fields which I had left bare and uncultivated were +now covered with Indian corn standing higher than my head, the ripe ears +hanging fantastically in all directions, and none to gather in the +harvest; the crops of kumara and potatoes were equally abundant. I could +not help thinking that, if they expected an invasion of their enemies, +they had left an ample supply of forage for their use. In the evening I +arrived at Horeke, or Deptford Dock-yard (of which I made mention in my +first journey). I here found my countrymen in a state of considerable +embarrassment. The various chiefs of that district had encamped all round +them; so near to them had they taken up their position, that, whatever +might be the result of their battles, the European settlement would be in +danger. The settlers had fortified their place of refuge in the best +manner they could; and all were determined to defend themselves and +property to the last. They had four nine-pounders mounted on a hill, and +a tolerable battery made of three-inch pine stuff. + +Before the English erected their fortifications, there was a great +difference of opinion amongst them as to the propriety and utility of +adopting so strong a measure, and the affair was finally put to the vote, +when the majority proved to be in favour of a strong resistance. I +opposed the measure all I could, for I felt convinced that in the event +of our allies being worsted we all should be involved in one common +massacre; whereas, if no resistance was made, plunder alone would have +been the extent of the injury we should suffer; and even of that taking +place I had strong doubts. However, as my opinion was overruled, I had to +submit, which I did unhesitatingly; and, like a good soldier, I held +myself in readiness in case of an attack. + +The proprietor and manager of the Dock-yard possessed certainly a +"satisfying reason" for striving to defend himself at all hazards. The +vessel I had left here, on my former visit, in frame, was now nearly +completed, and a most beautiful one she was. He told me he would much +rather part with life than see her destroyed; and I confess I could fully +enter into his feelings on the subject; but as I had no such object at +stake, and was not quite enthusiastic enough to fight for a vessel I had +no share in, I felt very much inclined to let the natives war among +themselves without interference; but as we Europeans had agreed to assist +each other, I would not be behind-hand. + +I discharged Rivers' two slaves, and rewarded them liberally for +conducting me with safety through such a wild and perilous country; they +departed (after expressing the heartiest wishes for my reaching my own +home in safety, and thanks for my generosity) to join their master at the +great meeting of the chiefs in the interior. These men, while assisting +me, were performing a great service to their master, by acting as spies. +When we started from the Kirikiri each was armed with a musket; but when +we had accomplished about half the journey, they concealed these in a +hollow tree, under pretence of extreme fatigue. I felt convinced at the +time that was not their real reason for so doing; and afterwards I +learned the true motive. Had they been found armed when returning to +their master (who was hostile to those assembled round the Dock-yard), +they would have been detained; but, by their coming unarmed amongst us, +they were suffered to depart; and I have no doubt the information they +carried back to Rivers was very important. I did not mention to anyone +the hiding of these muskets in the woods, though, according to "The +Articles of War," I ought to have done so, as getting possession of them +would have added two more to our strength, and lessened that of our +enemy; my silence arose from a repugnance I felt to betray these poor +creatures, who had behaved so well to me. + +Although prepared for war, we were very well pleased to find no attack +was made upon us. Indeed, from the first, it had been my decided opinion, +that unless we interfered, and made ourselves by that means obnoxious, +they had too much respect for us, and were too anxious to retain our +kindly feelings towards them, to molest us; at the same time, I felt that +it might be a very politic measure to show them what powerful resistance +we could make, if driven to extremities. + +After passing a week of the greatest anxiety, on account of our expected +invasion, it afforded us the utmost satisfaction to receive a visit from +Mr. Hobbs, the Wesleyan missionary, one of the persons who had visited +the war-camp of the assembled chiefs, who were convened, on the death of +our lamented friend George, to debate and decide upon the momentous +question of peace or war. + +The subject (our informant stated) had been gone into at great length, +and stormy and fierce had been the discussion. Finally, the good sense of +the elder and more experienced chiefs prevailed over the fiercer passions +of the younger, and peace was decided upon. This event forms a new era in +"The Political History of the Few Zealanders," it being the first time so +great an assemblage had met to discuss openly a national question, or in +which they had allowed cool reasoning and good sense to prevail over +their habitual ferocity. As may naturally be supposed, where such various +interests were at stake, this pacific measure was not effected without +considerable opposition from the young and furious chiefs. The +provocations given by them to the elders, whose voices were for peace, +were considerable. They did not confine themselves to abuse, but fired +several muskets during debate, in hopes that one shot out of the many +might prove fatal; which, if it had, and any distinguished chief had been +killed, or even wounded, it would have immediately thrown all into +confusion. Even when pacific measures were decided upon by a very large +majority, and the chiefs were about to separate, a bullet was fired from +the pa, which had evidently been aimed at a chief, a well-known ally of +the late Shulitea, as it fell at his feet, and the earth it threw up fell +upon him. For a few seconds surprise kept all silent; but, as the angry +chief rose up, and was about to address the crowd, his friends eagerly +surrounded him, and hurried him away. + +This was the first instance on record, in which these people had laid a +statement of their private wrongs before a public assembly consisting of +deputies from every part of the island, and abided by the decision of the +majority; and it was the only instance of a chief being killed in battle, +and his decease not having been followed up by the plundering and +destruction of his whole family or tribe. + +This had been a question of peculiar interest to us Europeans, as several +of their great men had fallen in a skirmish (whether an accidental one or +a decided combat made not the slightest difference). We knew their +barbarous custom; and, consequently, we were preparing for scenes of +deadly revenge and insatiable fury to be acted by both parties, and which +must have involved all settled here in destruction. Our feelings may +therefore be imagined, when we were informed that a parliament had been +convened, and all the parties interested were present by invitation, and +took part in the debate. A central spot was fixed on to accommodate the +various chieftains. The causes of the accident were then explained; they +wept and lamented the fallen chiefs, and finally retired satisfied to +their several homes. Surely everyone who is interested in tracing our own +form of government, from the present time up to its first rude outline, +will perceive the similarity of causes and events, and will anticipate +the glorious prospect of beholding a clever, brave, and, I may add, noble +race of men, like the New Zealanders, rescued from barbarism. This +pacific and rational discussion among the chiefs seems, in reality, to +give promise of the germ of a regular reform. Should a few more such +meetings take place, and terminate in the same amicable manner (and I +think it very probable), some clever individual may rise up amongst them, +take the reins in his own hands, and establish something like a regular +form of government. + + + + + +CHAPTER LI. + +OBSERVATIONS ON THE SOCIAL CONDITIONS OF THE MAORIS. + + +Feeling that I was not likely now to be called upon to act offensively, I +considered myself at liberty to make numerous excursions round our +fortress, not only to admire this fertile and beautiful country, but to +visit some of my old friends. I was very much astonished and shocked at +seeing several very beautiful young women, whom I left only a few months +back in perfect health and strength, now reduced to mere "living +skeletons," and also to hear of the death of others by consumption. This +disease seems to be the scourge of the young; and when they are once +seized with its symptoms, they are very speedily brought to the grave. +The natives say, "It is Atua, the Great Spirit, coming into them, and +eating up their inside; for the patient can feel those parts gradually go +away, and then they become weaker and weaker till no more is left; after +which the Spirit sends them to the happy island." They never attempt any +means of curing or of alleviating the pains caused by this cruel +complaint; and all those under its influence are tabooed. I procured from +the brig all my remaining stores of tapioca, sago, arrowroot, and sugar, +and distributed them in the best way I could amongst my sick friends. +They were anxious for wine; but that portion of my sea-stock, as well as +spirits, had been long since expended. + +It seems unaccountable that the natives of an atmosphere so dry as this +is--a country in which there are no marshy bogs, and where, though there +is an abundance of water, it is generally seen in clear and sparkling +rills rushing down from the mountains into the rivers--should be subject +to so fatal a disease as galloping consumption. The only cause to which I +can attribute such an affliction is, their indifference to lying out all +night exposed to every change of weather--to cold and rain--which, in +young and tender constitutions, must produce the most pernicious +consequences. If some few are rendered hardy and robust by this process, +many, no doubt, are killed by it. I endeavoured to impress on the minds +of all my female friends the great danger of thus exposing themselves to +cold; but they only laughed at my precautions, and said, "If Atua wished +it, so it must be; they could not strive with the Great Spirit." + +I have heard so much said about the great impropriety of the white +settlers admitting the native females into their society, so much of the +scandalous conduct of captains of ships suffering their men to have +sweethearts during their stay in port, and so much urged in justification +of the indignation shown by the missionaries when this subject is touched +on by them, that I feel it necessary to state one decided benefit which +has resulted from that intercourse, and which, in my opinion, far more +than counterbalances the evil against which there has been raised so loud +an outcry. + +Before our intercourse took place with the New Zealanders, a universal +and unnatural custom existed amongst them, which was that of destroying +most of their female children in infancy, their excuse being that they +were quite as much trouble to rear, and consumed just as much food, as a +male child, and yet, when grown up, they were not fit to go to war as +their boys were. The strength and pride of a chief then consisted in the +number of his sons; while the few females who had been suffered to live +were invariably looked down upon by all with the utmost contempt. They +led a life of misery and degradation. The difference now is most +remarkable. The natives, seeing with what admiration strangers beheld +their fine young women, and what handsome presents were made to them, by +which their families were benefited, feeling also that their influence +was so powerful over the white men, have been latterly as anxious to +cherish and protect their infant girls as they were formerly cruelly bent +on destroying them. Therefore, if one sin has been, to a certain degree, +encouraged, a much greater one has been annihilated. Infanticide, the +former curse of this country, and the cause of its scanty population, a +crime every way calculated to make men bloody-minded and ferocious, and +to stifle every benevolent and tender feeling, has totally disappeared +wherever an intercourse has taken place between the natives and the crews +of European vessels. + +The New Zealand method of "courtship and matrimony" is a most +extraordinary one; so much so, that an observer could never imagine any +affection existed between the parties. A man sees a woman whom he fancies +he should like for a wife; he asks the consent of her father, or, if an +orphan, of her nearest relation, which, if he obtains, he carries his +"intended" off by force, she resisting with all her strength; and, as the +New Zealand girls are generally pretty robust, sometimes a dreadful +struggle takes place; both are soon stripped to the skin, and it is +sometimes the work of hours to remove the fair prize a hundred yards. If +she breaks away, she instantly flies from her antagonist, and he has his +labour to commence again. We may suppose that if the lady feels any wish +to be united to her would-be spouse, she will not make too violent an +opposition; but it sometimes happens that she secures her retreat into +her father's house, and the lover loses all chance of ever obtaining her; +whereas, if he can manage to carry her in triumph into his own, she +immediately, becomes his wife. The women have a decided aversion to +marriage, which can scarcely be wondered at, when we consider how they +are circumstanced. While they remain single, they enjoy all the +privileges of the other sex; they may rove where they please, and bestow +their favours on whom they choose, and are entirely beyond control or +restraint; but when married their freedom is at an end; they become mere +slaves, and sink gradually into domestic drudges to those who have the +power of life and death over them; and whether their conduct be criminal +or exemplary, they are equally likely to receive a blow, in a moment of +passion, of sufficient force to end life and slavery together! There are +many exceptions to this frightful picture; and I saw several old couples, +who had been united in youth, who had always lived in happiness together, +and whose kind and friendly manner towards each other set an example well +worthy of imitation in many English families. + + + + + +CHAPTER LII. + +A MAORI TANGI. + + +April 2nd.--This day, perceiving that an unusual number of canoes were +passing up the river, all proceeding towards the village of Par-Finneigh, +we hailed one; and, upon its coming alongside, we inquired what had +occurred, for every appearance of bustle or commotion amongst this +restless and war-like people is truly alarming. They informed us that the +great chief A-Rowa, who died four months since, and the ceremony of whose +"lying in state" I had been permitted by his eldest son to be a witness +of, was this day to be exposed to the view of his friends; was to be +cried over; and was finally to be deposited in the tomb of his ancestors. +As this was one of their imposing spectacles which I had never yet seen, +I was anxious to witness it. We soon got a boat ready, and a party of us +joined the throng, and proceeded with them to the village. Upon our +arrival thither, we found an immense concourse of people assembled; for +here, as in most uncivilised or early states of society, the disposition +and good qualities of the deceased are made known by the number of +friends and followers who meet at his funeral. As these New Zealanders +were all fully equipped in arms, they had more the appearance of a +hostile meeting in an enemy's camp, than of a group of mourners about to +be occupied in the melancholy duty of depositing out of sight for ever +the last remains of a beloved chief. + +Mooetara, the son and successor of the deceased, came to meet us on the +beach, and seemed much gratified by our attention, our appearance on this +solemn occasion giving him importance in the eyes of all the natives then +assembled. He gave orders for our being conducted with much ceremony to +the place of mourning, where, amidst a number of uncouth pieces of +carving (which, we were informed were all tombs reared in honour of the +memory of several former chiefs, and all tabooed), was erected a small +hut, covered in at the top with thatch, but open at the sides. In the +centre of this hut the bones of the deceased chief were exposed to view. +After having undergone the process of decomposition during four months' +exposure to heat, wind, and rain, they had been collected, cleaned, and +decorated with a quantity of fresh white feathers, which rendered the +appearance of the skull still more frightful. + +The women here invariably perform the parts of chief mourners; a group of +them, with the widow of the deceased at their head, kept up a most +mournful cadence, and at every pause in their dismal song slashed their +skins with a piece of shell, till their faces, necks, and arms were +literally streaming down with blood. This mourning and cutting is +completely a matter of business, and is sometimes carried on without +their feeling any real sorrow or sympathy. Parties kept arriving, and +when there was not room for them to thrust themselves round the hut, they +sat down in groups, perfectly unconcerned, employing themselves in +cleaning their firelocks, or playing off upon each other some practical +joke; but the moment a vacant space was presented near the hut, they +deliberately stripped themselves, put on a most sorrowful countenance, +and, seating themselves as near to the ornamented bones as possible, they +immediately began their howling and slashing; no one seemed to like the +idea of being outdone by his neighbour; but when the time allotted to +this ceremony had expired, all instantly jumped up, wiped themselves, put +on their mats, and joined the busy throng. There was, indeed, one real +mourner, who never moved from the bones, nor once lifted up her eyes from +them; she neither howled nor cut herself, and yet she inspired me with +pity and commiseration for her forlorn state. This woman had been the +only wife of the late chief; and I was informed they had lived many years +together, and had a large family; she looked as if she herself was on the +very brink of the grave. The contemplation of the mouldering remains of +her partner through life must have been, even to her savage mind, most +lacerating. + +After witnessing several parties perform their funeral ceremonies, and +imbibing, in some degree, the melancholy tone of mind such a sight must +necessarily create, we arose and joined Mooetara. Here I witnessed a +scene that reminded me of an English country fair. An immense number of +temporary huts had been erected for the accommodation of the chiefs and +their families, where they might repose after their exertions, while +their slaves cooked their provisions, of which an abundant quantity had +been provided, consisting of piles of kumara and Indian corn, with heaps +of fish, which were served out, to all who came for them, with a most +liberal hand, and which, of course, added not a little to the pleasure of +the day. After all had satisfied their hunger (and even the lowest slaves +were permitted, on this occasion, to have as much as they wished for) +they jumped up, flew to their muskets, and commenced their war dance with +great noise and vigour. The violence of their exertions caused their +recent wounds to bleed afresh, and added much to the horror of their +hideous grimaces. They then divided into two parties, and had a sham +battle. I must here do justice to the temperate habits of my savage +friends. During my residence in New Zealand, I have known but very few +who were addicted to drinking, and I scarcely ever saw one of them in a +state of intoxication; and, on this occasion, where a profusion of what +they esteem delicacies was provided gratuitously, they partook so +moderately of the tempting fare as not to be prevented using the most +violent exertions immediately after their meal. The entertainment being +now over, the different parties gathered up what remained of the portions +of food distributed to them, and without taking any leave of their +entertainer, or returning any thanks for his bountiful providing, they +all entered their canoes and paddled away. + + + + + +CHAPTER LIII. + +CHARACTER OF THE NEW ZEALANDERS. + + +An unfortunate prejudice has gone forth into the world against the +natives of New Zealand, which I have always endeavoured to counteract +from a sense of justice, and, from a careful review of those +circumstances which have fallen immediately under my own observation; +this prejudice has long retarded our knowledge of their true character, +but error must gradually give way to truth; and as the circumstances +which first brought the stigma upon their name come to light, and are +investigated and properly explained, I feel confident the conduct of +these islanders will be found superior to that of any other nation in the +South Seas. If we take the whole catalogue of dreadful massacres they +have been charged with, and (setting aside partiality for our own +countrymen) allow them to be carefully examined, it will be found that we +have invariably been the aggressors; and when we have given serious cause +of offence, can we be so irrational as to express astonishment that a +savage should seek revenge? The last massacre was that of "The Boyd's" +crew; every impartial person who reads the account of that melancholy +transaction must acknowledge the unfortunate captain was most to blame. +But that event took place nineteen years back; since which time they know +us better, and respect us more; in proof of which, four years since, The +Mercury brig was taken possession of by a crowd of natives, after they +had endured a series of offences and every kind of ill-treatment; but the +difference in their fate, compared with that of The Boyd's ship's +company, was remarkable, and proved that the savage temper of the natives +was much softened down and humanised, as they merely plundered the +vessel, but made no attempt to murder or molest any of the crew, who, if +they had possessed sufficient courage, would not have sacrificed their +vessel; but, being terrified, they abandoned her, and she was finally +wrecked. During my residence, I never heard of one of the men having been +murdered; and I feel fully convinced no massacres will ever again be +committed in any of the ports in New Zealand where European vessels have +been accustomed to anchor. + +I once saw, with indignation, a chief absolutely knocked overboard from a +whaler's deck by the mate. Twenty years ago so gross an insult would have +cost the lives of every individual on board the vessel, but, at the time +this occurred, it was only made the subject of complaint, and finally +became a cause of just remonstrance with the commander of the whaler. The +natives themselves (and I have heard the opinions of various tribes) have +invariably told me that these things occurred from our want of knowledge +of their laws and customs, which compelled them to seek revenge. "It +was," they said, "no act of treachery on our part; we did not invite you +to our shores for the purpose of plunder and murder: but you came, and +ill-used us; you broke into our tabooed grounds. And did not Atua give +those bad white men into the hands of our fathers?" + +I am confident that a body of Europeans may now reside in perfect +security in any part of these islands. The late plundering of the +missionaries at Whangaroa was a peculiar circumstance, which might have +happened even in civilised Europe, had the seat of war approached so near +their place of residence. If their houses and chapel had been on the +plains of Waterloo during the June of 1815 they would not have +experienced a better fate. + +This recent tumult has brought a circumstance into notice highly +interesting to all who may hereafter wish to settle here. It has hitherto +been their custom, when an accident occurs, such as the sudden death of a +chief, to make a general plunder of everything belonging to the family of +the deceased, and all under their protection. A knowledge of this +horrible custom has deterred many from settling in New Zealand; and even +those who have resolved to run so great a risk have lived in a continued +state of alarm, lest the death of their protecting chief should leave +them at the mercy of a savage enemy. + +The deaths of Hongi and Shulitea placed the missionaries and all the +settlers on Kororarika Beach in considerable jeopardy: but it appeared as +if reason had begun to dawn on the minds of these benighted savages, for +this unjust and cruel custom was now for the first time discontinued. I +was on the beach at the time when an immense party, well armed, came for +the express purpose of satiating their revengeful feelings. I had taken +the precaution of removing what I possessed on board a whaler then lying +in the harbour. The chiefs first sat down to discuss the matter over +amongst themselves, and their deliberations ended in their being +satisfied with destroying the village of Matowe, the one adjoining ours, +and which had been the residence of Pomare's son, whose death was the +cause of all the late turbulent events. + +The great and leading defect in this country, and the principal cause of +their frequent wars and disturbances, which harass and depopulate the +tribes, and puts a stop to all improvement, is the want of some regular +system of government. There are only two classes of people--chiefs and +slaves; and, as consanguinity constitutes a high claim, the eldest son of +a large family, who can bring the greatest number of warriors of his own +name into the field, is considered the chief of that district or tribe; +and as he, by reason of his followers, can take possession of the +greatest number of prisoners or slaves, he becomes the ruling man. Every +other man of his tribe considers himself on an equality with him in +everything, except that he shows him obedience, and follows him to +battle. + +Each is independent in his own family, and holds uncontrolled power of +life and death over every individual it contains. They seem not to +exercise any coercion over the younger branches of a family, who are +allowed unbounded liberty till the girls have sweethearts and the boys +are strong enough to go to war. They are kind and hospitable to +strangers, and are excessively fond of their children. On a journey, it +is more usual to see the father carrying his infant than the mother; and +all the little offices of a nurse are performed by him with the tenderest +care and good humour. In many instances (wherein they differ from most +savage tribes) I have seen the wife treated as an equal and companion. In +fact, when not engaged in war, the New Zealander is quite a domestic, +cheerful, harmless character; but once rouse his anger, or turn him into +ridicule, and his disposition is instantly changed. A being, whose +passions have never been curbed from infancy, and whose only notion of +what he conceives to be his right is to retaliate for an offence with +blood, must naturally form a cruel and vindictive character. Such these +islanders seemed to us on our first visiting them. The sight of beings so +extraordinary (for thus we Europeans must have appeared to them) excited +in their savage minds the greatest wonder; and they thought we were sent +as a scourge and an enemy; and though Cook, one of their earliest +visitors, adopted every method his ingenuity could devise to conciliate +them, yet, as they never could thoroughly understand his intentions, they +were always on the alert to attack him. Hence arose the horror and +disgust expressed formerly at the mere mention of the name of "a New +Zealander." + +I have often tried, in vain, to account for there being such a decided +dissimilarity between the natives of New Holland and New Zealand. So +trifling is the difference in their situation on the globe, and so +_similar their climates_--both having remained so long unknown to the +great continents, and so devoid of intercourse with the rest of the +world--that one would be led to imagine a great resemblance must be the +result. But the natives of the former seem of the lowest grade--the last +link in the great chain of existence which unites man with the monkey. +Their limbs are long, thin, and flat, with large bony knees and elbows, a +projecting forehead, and pot-belly. The mind, too, seems adapted to this +mean configuration; they have neither energy, enterprise, nor industry; +and their curiosity can scarcely be excited. A few exceptions may be met +with; but these are their general characteristics. While the natives of +the latter island are "cast in beauty's perfect mould;" the children are +so fine and powerfully made, that each might serve as a model for a +statue of "the Infant Hercules;" nothing can exceed the graceful and +athletic forms of the men, or the rounded limbs of their young women. +These possess eyes beautiful and eloquent, and a profusion of long, +silky, curling hair; while the intellects of both sexes seem of a +superior order; all appear eager for improvement, full of energy, and +indefatigably industrious, and possessing amongst themselves several arts +which are totally unknown to their neighbours. + + + + + +CHAPTER LIV. + +THE SETTLEMENT AND TRADE OF HOKIANGA. + + +On April the 14th, our brig being stored with planks, flax, and potatoes, +and ready for sea, I went on board of her. We had fine weather till we +dropped down to the entrance of the river, where we intended taking in +our stock of water for the voyage, when the scene suddenly changed, and a +severe gale came on, right out to sea, which we could not avail ourselves +of; neither could we get the water off, as our rafts of casks got adrift +in the attempt to get them on board. To add to our disasters, one of our +cables parted, and we had to ride out the gale (of two days' continuance) +with one only, the sea rolling heavily right open before us, and we in +momentary expectation of the remaining cable's going; we had not a single +day's allowance of water on board, and at one period all hands (except +the carpenter and passengers) were out of the brig, on shore, filling the +casks. Fortunately for us, the cable proved a tough one; had it parted, +we should have been in a most perilous situation. + +April 20th.--For the last week we were stationary at the river's mouth, +waiting for a fair wind to carry us over the bar; and during that time +there was no appearance of any change; we also heard that vessels had +been detained here for six weeks before they could accomplish it. We +were visited daily by parties of natives, who seemed to rejoice at our +being delayed, as it gave them more of our company than they had +calculated upon. They were more delighted with our society than we were +with theirs; in a small vessel they are a serious nuisance, on account of +the swarms of vermin they bring with them, and which they communicate +liberally to all. Myself and all the passengers on board had our leisure +time fully occupied in dislodging these "little familiars" from their +strongholds in different parts of our apparel. + +During the time we were lying here, I saw and conversed with several +individuals who had attended the "Great Meeting," and their accounts gave +rise to various opinions respecting the policy of supplying the natives +with firearms. As I had always been an advocate for the measure, I was +gratified by hearing that it was thought to be in consequence of each +party's being possessed of a nearly equal quantity of muskets, that a +general and exterminating war was avoided. Some may suppose that similar +tranquility would have been preserved, had they been equally well +supplied with their native weapons of war; but that would not have been +the case. When they found that each party could furnish forth the same +number of European muskets, they paused, well knowing that it was +contrary to the wish of all the white settlers that they should proceed +to hostilities. Indeed, Europeans intrepidly mingled amongst them, urging +them to a reconciliation, and threatening that, if they failed in their +endeavours, the supplies of arms and ammunition should be discontinued. +This threat had its desired effect on the minds of the natives; no blood +was spilt, and each chief returned quietly to his own home. + +On the night we heard of the death of George and his wife, "Revenge and +war" was the universal cry. His party would not believe that it could be +an accident, nor would they hear of any apology being received. At this +time they imagined the tribes of Hokianga were possessed of but very few +firearms; and, as the skirmish took place in that district, it was +determined that an exterminating war should be carried into the heart of +it. However, before all the preparations could be made to carry their +intentions into effect, they received certain information that the people +of Hokianga were even better supplied with muskets than those of the Bay +of Islands. This intelligence occasioned an assemblage of the different +tribes to be proposed, and when it took place the friends of George saw +their opponents so well prepared for the "tug of war" that they deemed it +judicious to come forward and to shake hands and to acknowledge that the +death of Shulitea proceeded either from accident or mistake. A curious +circumstance took place in the midst of their debate. An old chief, who +wished for a fight, and did not approve of the introduction of firearms, +but was an advocate for the old method of New Zealand warfare, proposed +that each party should send away _all_ their muskets and ammunition, and +engage manfully with their own native weapons, and then it could be +easily proved which were the "best men;" but this mode of settling the +dispute, not being agreeable to the majority, was instantly negatived, +and treated with disdain. + +The colony of Scotch carpenters, who had formed a settlement at the head +of the river, and of whom I made "honourable mention" on my first +journey, finding themselves so close to what they feared might become +the seat of war, and having no means whatever of defending themselves, +made an arrangement with Mooetara, the chief of Parkunugh (which is +situated at the entrance of the same river), and placed themselves under +his protection. They accordingly moved down here, which gave great +satisfaction to that chief. Neither could their former protector, +Patuone, feel offended at their removal, from the peculiar nature of the +circumstances they were placed in. These hardy North Britons were +delighted to find a reasonable excuse for moving, their former +establishment being situated too far from the sea for them to reap any +advantage from ships coming into port. Nothing can be more gratifying +than to behold the great anxiety of the natives to induce Englishmen to +settle amongst them; it ensures their safety; and no one act of treachery +is on record of their having practised towards those whom they had +invited to reside with them. + +Mooetara is a man of great property and high rank, and is considered a +very proud chief by the natives; yet he is to be seen every day working +as hard as any slave in assisting in the erection of houses for the +accommodation of his new settlers. He has actually removed from his old +village of Parkunugh (a strong and beautiful place), and is erecting huts +for his tribe near the spot chosen by his new friends; so that, in a very +short time, a barren point of land, hitherto without a vestige of a human +habitation, will become a thriving and populous village, for it is +incredible how quickly the orders of these chiefs are carried into +effect. I was frequently a witness to the short space of time they took +to erect their houses; and, though small, they are tight, weather-proof, +and warm: their storehouses are put together in the most substantial and +workmanlike manner. + +It is very difficult to make the New Zealanders explain the nature of +their religious belief. One superstition seems general with all the +tribes respecting the formation of the world, or, rather, of their own +island, for that is the place of the first importance in their +estimation. They say a man, or a god, or some great spirit, was fishing +in his war-canoe, and pulled up a large fish, which instantly turned into +an island; and a lizard came upon that, and brought up a man out of the +water by his long hair; and he was the father of all the New Zealanders. +Almost all their grotesque carvings are illustrations of this idea in +some way or other. The favourite theme on which (I observed) the +missionaries discoursed to them were "the torments of hell." This has +become a subject of ridicule to most of the natives; they do not deny +that there may be such a place, but they add, it is not for them, for if +Atua had intended it so he would have sent them word about it long before +he sent the white men into their country; and they conclude by stating +that they know perfectly well the situation of the island where they are +to go to after this life. + + + + + +CHAPTER LV. + +MASSACRE OF A SCHOONER'S CREW. + + +While remaining here wind-bound, in imaginary security, and amusing +ourselves with noticing the curious customs and peculiarities of these +islanders, a dreadful tragedy was taking place only a few miles' distance +from us, and to which I before alluded, when I mentioned crossing the bar +on our first arrival from Port Jackson. The Enterprise schooner, a very +fine vessel, which was built at the settlement on this river, had been +sent to Sydney, and while we were lying there we were in hourly +expectation of her return. She did return. The unfavourable weather which +detained us so long proved fatal to her, and she was wrecked a few miles +to the northward of the river's mouth, and every soul on board perished. + +The moment this catastrophe was known every European hastened to the +spot, and, with feelings of horror, perceived but too plainly, from the +appearance of the wreck and the boat, and by finding also the clothes of +the crew, that they had reached the shore in safety, and had afterwards +all been murdered; but how, or by whom, it was impossible to discover. +The most probable conclusion was that the tribes situated around the +European dockyard at Hokianga, having meditated for some time past a +great war-like expedition, waited the return of this schooner from Sydney +to possess themselves of an additional supply of arms and ammunition, +which might enable them to take the field with a certainty of conquest. +They had regularly purchased the cargo of this vessel by their labour +and their merchandise, and the schooner was merely employed to convey it +thither from Sydney, for the use of the natives; unhappily for the poor +creatures on board, in running for the mouth of the river, she fell to +leeward, and got stranded on the beach, in the very territory of that +tribe against whom these preparations were made--the tribe intended to be +invaded. Though no formal declaration of war had taken place, the tribes +well knew the preparations that were making against them, and the nature +of the cargo contained in The Enterprise; falling into the hands of such +fierce and vindictive savages, the fate of the crew may be imagined--all +our poor fellows were sacrificed to gratify their feelings of revenge. + +Mooetara (the friendly chief of Hokianga) no sooner heard of the fate of +the vessel and her crew than he hastened with his party to the spot; it +was owing to the investigation which then took place that the conclusion +was arrived at that all had been murdered. What remained for Mooetara to +do (according to their savage notion of what was right) was to take ample +revenge on all the hostile tribes that might fall in his way, whether our +poor countrymen met their deaths through accident or treachery. Mooetara +instantly commenced the work of destruction; and, having made his +vengeance complete, he returned laden with spoil. The promptness with +which he acted on this melancholy occasion greatly increased the feelings +of security possessed by those Englishmen settled on the banks of the +river, as it proved to them that he was both able and willing to protect +them, and though the dead could not be restored, yet he had inflicted an +awful punishment on their murderers. + + + + + +CHAPTER LVI. + +FAREWELL TO NEW ZEALAND. + + +On the 21st a fair wind and smooth sea favoured our departure. Early in +the morning the natives who were on board assured us everything would +facilitate our passing over the bar with safety, and they prepared to +leave the ship. When the moment of separation came, it caused a great +deal of emotion on both sides. I must confess I felt much affected when I +came to rub noses, shake hands, and say "Farewell" to these kind-hearted +people. I saw them go over the ship's side, and reflected that I should +never behold them more. There is always something repugnant to our +feelings in the idea of separating from any being for ever; and as, in +this instance, I felt assured that this was our last time of meeting, it +cast a gloom over the pleasure the fair wind and smooth sea would +otherwise have afforded me. As we fell down towards the river's mouth, +and, indeed, as long as their canoes were to be seen, they kept waving +their hands towards us. + +Thus terminated my visit to the islands of New Zealand. I had arrived +with feelings of fear and disgust, and was merely induced to take up a +temporary residence amongst the natives, in hopes of finding something +new for my pencil in their peculiar and picturesque style of life. I left +them with opinions, in many respects, very favourable towards them. It +is true, they are cunning and over-reaching in trade, and filthy in their +persons. In regard to the former, we Europeans, I fear, set them a bad +example; of the latter, they will gradually amend. Our short visit to +Kororarika greatly improved them in that particular. All took great pains +to come as clean as possible when they attended our "evening +tea-parties." In my opinion, their sprightly, free, and independent +deportment, together with their kindness and attention to strangers, +compensates for many defects. + +On looking round upon their country, an Englishman cannot fail to feel +gratified when he beholds the good already resulting to these poor +savages from their intercourse with his countrymen; and they themselves +are fully sensible of, and truly grateful for, every mark of kindness +manifested towards them. They have stores full of the finest Indian corn, +which they consider a great luxury, a food which requires little trouble +in preparing, keeps well, and is very nutritious. It is but a few years +since this useful grain was introduced amongst them; and I sincerely hope +this introduction may be followed up, not only by our sending out to them +seeds of vegetables and fruits, but by our forwarding to them every +variety of quadruped which can be used for food. Abundance of the finest +water-melons are daily brought alongside vessels entering their ports; +these, in point of flavour, are superior to any I ever met with. I have +no doubt every variety of European produce essential to the support of +life would thrive equally well; and as food became abundant, and luxuries +were introduced, their disgusting feasts on human flesh would soon be +discontinued altogether. + +We were soon at sea, and speedily felt considerable apprehensions as to +the safe termination of our voyage. Our vessel (the brig Governor +Macquarie) we well knew was a leaky one, though her leaks did not +distress us on the outward voyage, she being then only in ballast trim; +but now that she was loaded to the water's edge, and the winter coming +on, we became greatly alarmed for her. Another disagreeable circumstance +was having no bread or flour on board. To obviate the first evil, and to +save the sailors a great deal of hard labour, our Captain offered to give +a passage to Sydney to several natives, who accepted his offer, they +being always anxious to see the colony; we likewise had on board the +great Chief from the Thames, who had caused us so much trouble at +Kororarika. These men, being fine, strong, active young fellows, were +indefatigable in their exertions at the pumps; and though we had to +contend with much heavy weather, and contrary winds, they kept our vessel +pretty dry. The want of bread was not so easily remedied; though our +Captain treated it lightly, saying he was sure of getting a supply by +making a requisition to the missionaries. He accordingly waited upon +them, and acquainted them with our distressed condition; they had plenty +(for only a few weeks previously they had received a large supply), and +as we knew their agent at Sydney, Mr. Campbell, we had no doubt of +procuring a sufficiency from them to carry us home; but in this we were +disappointed. Captain Kent did not ask them for a supply as a gift, but +solicited merely the _loan_ of a cask or two till we arrived at Sydney, +when he guaranteed that the owners of the brig should return the same +quantity into the missionary storehouse there. The little monosyllable +_No_ was again put in requisition, with this qualification--"that they +did not like the Botany Bay skippers." Through their "dislike," the +passengers and seamen of the brig might have gone unprovided to sea, had +not a "worldly-minded" whaler (fortunately for us) at that critical +moment come into port, who, the instant he heard of the ill-success of +our entreaty, vented his indignation in pretty coarse language, and said, +"if it detained his vessel a week, he would supply us;" and he kept his +word; he gave us a bountiful supply, which rendered us comfortable during +the whole way home. + +It was most interesting to observe our savages when we got well out to +sea. They soon appeared to become accustomed to their novel situation, +and seemed to feel quite at home and at their ease "on board ship." Their +exertions at the pumps were indefatigable. I felt convinced they thought +that during all voyages the same labour was gone through to keep the +vessel afloat; and as it only required strength and exertion, they +cheerfully took that department entirely to themselves, especially as +they soon perceived how useless they were when they attempted to perform +any other duty on board of the brig, as their knowledge of voyaging +extended no further than the distance they go in their own canoes, which, +though very beautiful, are sad leaky things at sea; and as, during the +time they are out, the greater part of the crew are baling the water out +of them, they thought the leaky state of our vessel was no uncommon +occurrence. But however cheerfully they worked during the day, nothing +could induce them to "turn out" at night; they always stowed themselves +away, but in what part of the vessel I never could conjecture. They have +a dread of some unknown evil spirit, which they imagine has power over +them at night; and this supposition makes them terrible cowards in the +dark. + +The second day after we were at sea, I saw a group of savages lying round +the binnacle, all intently occupied in observing the phenomenon of the +magnetic attraction; they seemed at once to comprehend the purpose to +which it was applied, and I listened with eager curiosity to their +remarks upon it. + +"This," said they, "is the white man's God, who directs them safely to +different countries, and then can guide them home again." Out of +compliment to us, and respect for its wonderful powers, they seemed much +inclined to worship this silent little monitor. + +During our voyage to Port Jackson we experienced a succession of +southerly gales, which Captain Kent informed me were very prevalent at +this season of the year. Notwithstanding all our exertions to prevent it, +we were carried considerably to leeward of the port. We made Lord Howe's +Islands, whose high and bold features rise, as it were, out of the ocean; +as we passed close to them, we perceived they were well wooded and +watered; and one of the men, who had been on shore there, informed me that +there was a tolerably good harbour for small craft. A few miles to the +southward of these islands is Ball's Pyramid, a most singular and +sublime-looking rock, rising perpendicularly out of the sea to a height +of a thousand feet; the base of it is enveloped in perpetual surf, +dashing and climbing up its craggy sides. Its appearance, as we saw it, +relieved by the setting sun, and the coming on of a stormy night, was +awful in the extreme! + +Nothing could exceed the delight manifested by our New Zealanders as we +sailed up Port Jackson harbour; but, above all, the windmills most +astonished them. After dancing and screaming with joy at beholding them, +they came running and asking me "if they were not gods." I found they +were inclined to attach that sacred appellation to most things they could +not understand; they did so when they first became possessed of their +muskets, and actually worshipped them, until they discovered how soon +they got out of repair, and then, notwithstanding all the prayers they +could bestow upon them, they would not mend again of their own accord. + +Our Chief from the Thames, who had a great idea of his own dignity, +commenced adorning his person, as he felt convinced the Governor would +instantly grant him an audience when he came on shore. All our lamps were +emptied to add a more beautiful gloss to his hair and complexion; his +whole stock of feathers and bones were arranged to the greatest +advantage. He at length became quite enraged when he found that he was +allowed to sit two days on our deck, amongst all manner of dirty porters +and sailors, without either being visited or sent for; and he was loud in +his reproaches to us for having deceived him. We certainly were to blame +in having induced him to believe we had any influence with the Governor, +for however politic we (who had lived in New Zealand) might think it, to +pay some attentions to these simple savages, his Excellency, +unfortunately, thought otherwise; and though the Chief, attended by his +followers, used to sit in the verandah at Government House from morning +till night, the Governor never once deigned to speak to them, and they +were, in consequence, constantly coming to me with complaints. At length +they told me that unless they obtained an audience from our Chief they +should consider it so great an insult that they would revenge it upon all +the Europeans they could get into their power; and I, well knowing that +several families were settled in that part of the country wherein this +man was Chief, thought it my duty to let the Governor know, that, however +he might dislike their manners and appearance, it might lead to some +serious calamity, if he continued to refuse to give them an audience. + +I accordingly waited upon the Brigade Major, and explained to him how +unwise it was to treat these men with such undisguised contempt. The +result was, the Governor saw the affair in the same point of view as +myself, and condescended to meet them and converse with them for about +five minutes; and with that they were satisfied. Other heads of +departments (civil and military) behaved differently, and evidently felt +a pleasure in having them with them. The Commander of the troops suffered +them to sit at the same table with himself and officers, and had the +war-dance performed in the mess-room, which I thought would have brought +the house down upon our heads. He likewise permitted them to fall into +the ranks with the soldiers, which pleased them beyond everything, +inasmuch as they considered it a higher honour in being permitted to +stand by our warriors on the martial parade than to take food with our +Chiefs at their own table! + +The Attorney-General of the colony took a particular interest in these +savages, and gave a large party, to which they were invited. Several of +the visitors on this occasion came out of curiosity to see how these +cannibals would conduct themselves, expecting, no doubt, to witness a +display of disgusting gluttony; but in that they were disappointed, for +never did any set of men behave with greater decorum than they did. + +On being apprised of this invitation, they were all most anxious to +obtain European dresses, and when we refused to lend them ours, they +requested of our servants the loan of a suit. This being denied them +also, with the little money they had they attempted to bargain for whole +suits of _convict_ dresses, in order to make their _debut_ in style at +the table of the Attorney-General! When I discovered this to be the case, +I explained to them the impropriety of their conduct, and roused their +pride by pointing out to them the absurdity of men of their high rank in +their own country wishing to appear in the cast-off dress of degraded +slaves, and how much more suitable it was to the dignity of their +character to appear in their own national costume. Accordingly, on the +appointed day, they met the company superbly attired in mats and +feathers; they made a splendid show at the dinner-table, and afforded +great amusement to the evening visitors. At an early hour they got very +sleepy, but were too polite to hint how much they felt oppressed by +drowsiness. I saw their eyes grow heavy, and perceived that it was +difficult for them to sit upright on their chairs. I mentioned these +symptoms to their kind host, who immediately consented to their retiring. +They accordingly withdrew into a corner of one of the adjoining rooms, +where, lying down huddled together, and covering themselves with their +mats, they were soon asleep, and gave no interruption to anyone during +the remainder of the evening. + +The greatest treat it was in our power to bestow on them was to take them +to a review of the troops then stationed at Sydney. The splendour of +their regimentals, the regularity of their movements, and the precision +of their firing, made them nearly mad with delight; they ran about the +plain literally wild with joy, occasionally stopping to gaze with wonder +on men performing what they deemed such prodigies. In their ecstasies +they occasionally vociferated their own furious war-whoop. Their +extravagant expressions of delight, and their many extraordinary +gestures, caused great amusement both to the military and to the +spectators assembled on the ground; and when the review was over my +savage friends were quite exhausted with fatigue and excitement. + +After two months' residence at Sydney we had an opportunity of procuring +a passage for them to their own country; and they departed, expressing +the greatest gratitude for our attentions towards them. They were loaded +with presents of all descriptions; for, finding they generally got what +they begged for, while here, they importuned everyone they met, and they +used daily to return home burthened with the most miscellaneous and +extraordinary jumble of commodities it was possible to conceive; for, as +everything they then beheld was new to them, and might be (they thought) +of some service to them in their own country, each trifle was of great +value in their estimation, and was carefully stowed away. They always +expressed their concern that so few muskets were given to them, and that +they were presented with ammunition in such small quantities. War-like +stores were their grand desideratum; and though they would accept of any +thing you chose to give them, yet they always had hopes they should +finally receive their favourite presents of a stocking of powder, a piece +of lead, or a musket. + +THE END. + + + + + +APPENDIX I. + +MASSACRE OF CAPT. FURNEAUX'S BOAT'S CREW. + +CANNIBALISM OF THE MAORIS. + + +[_The following is the account given by Captain Furneaux of the massacre +of his boat's crew, referred to in Earle's narrative on page 24._] + + * * * * * + +The Resolution, under command of Captain Cook, and the Adventure, +commanded by Captain Furneaux, sailed from Plymouth on the 13th April, +1772, to continue the exploration of New Zealand begun during Captain +Cook's first voyage. The vessels became finally separated in a gale off +Cape Palliser in October, 1773, and the two navigators did not meet again +until after Cook's return to England in July, 1775. + +Captain Furneaux reported that while his ship was refitting in Queen +Charlotte Sound the astronomer's tent was robbed by a party of natives. +One who was seen escaping was fired upon and wounded, when he and his +confederates made for the woods, leaving their canoe with most of the +stolen goods on the shore. "This petty larceny," Captain Furneaux +remarks, "probably laid the foundation of that dreadful catastrophe which +soon after happened," and which he thus describes: + +"On Friday, the 17th, we sent out our large cutter, manned with seven +seamen, under the command of Mr. John Rowe, the first mate, accompanied +by Mr. Woodhouse, midshipman, and James Tobias Swilley, the carpenter's +servant. They were to proceed up the Sound to Grass Cove to gather greens +and celery for the ship's company, with orders to return that evening; +for the tents had been struck at two in the afternoon, and the ship made +ready for sailing the next day. Night coming on, and no cutter appearing, +the captain and others began to express great uneasiness. They sat up all +night in expectation of their arrival, but to no purpose. At daybreak, +therefore, the captain ordered the launch to be hoisted out. She was +double manned, and under the command of our second lieutenant, Mr. +Burney, accompanied by Mr. Freeman, master, the corporal of marines, with +five private men, all well armed, and having plenty of ammunition and +three days' provision. They were ordered first to look into East Bay, +then to proceed to Grass Cove, and if nothing was to be seen or heard of +the cutter there, they were to go farther up the cove, and return by the +west shore. Mr. Rowe having left the ship an hour before the time +proposed for his departure, we thought his curiosity might have carried +him into East Bay, none of our people having ever been there, or that +some accident might have happened to the boat, for not the least +suspicion was entertained of the natives. Mr. Burney returned about +eleven o'clock the same night, and gave us a pointed description of a +most horrible scene, described in the following relation:-- + +"'On Saturday, the 18th, we left the ship about nine o'clock in the +morning. We soon got round Long Island and Long Point. We continued +sailing and rowing for East Bay, keeping close in shore, and examining +with our glasses every cove on the larboard side, till near two o'clock +in the afternoon, at which time we stopped at a beach on our left going +up East Bay, to dress our dinner. + +"'About five o'clock in the afternoon, and within an hour after we had +left this place, we opened a small bay adjoining to Grass Cove, and here +we saw a large double canoe just hauled upon the beach, with two men and +a dog. The two men, on seeing us approach, instantly fled, which made us +suspect it was here we should have some tidings of the cutter. On landing +and examining the canoe, the first thing we saw therein was one of our +cutter's rowlock ports and some shoes, one of which among the latter was +known to belong to Mr. Woodhouse. A piece of flesh was found by one of +our people, which at first was thought to be some of the salt meat +belonging to the cutter's men, but, upon examination, we supposed to be +dog's flesh. A most horrid and undeniable proof soon cleared up our +doubts, and convinced us we were among no other than cannibals; for, +advancing further on the beach, we saw about twenty baskets tied up, and +a dog eating a piece of broiled flesh, which, upon examination, we +suspected to be human. We cut open the baskets, some of which were full +of roasted flesh, and others of fern root, which serves them for bread. +Searching others, we found more shoes and a hand, which was immediately +known to have belonged to Thos. Hill, one of our forecastle men, it +having been tattooed with the initials of his name. We now proceeded a +little way in the woods, but saw nothing else. Our next design was to +launch the canoe, intending to destroy her; but seeing a great smoke +ascending over the nearest hill, we made all possible haste to be with +them before sunset. + +"'At half after six we opened Grass Cove, where we saw one single and +three double canoes, and a great many natives assembled on the beach, who +retreated to a small hill, within a ship's length of the water side, +where they stood talking to us. On the top of the high land, beyond the +woods, was a large fire, from whence, all the way down the hill, the +place was thronged like a fair. When we entered the cove, a musketoon was +fired at one of the canoes, as we imagined they might be full of men +lying down, for they were all afloat, but no one was seen in them. Being +doubtful whether their retreat proceeded from fear or a desire to decoy +us into an ambuscade, we were determined not to be surprised, and +therefore, running close in shore, we dropped the grappling near enough +to reach them with our guns, but at too great a distance to be under any +apprehensions from their treachery. The savages on the little hill kept +their ground, hallooing, and making signs for us to land. At these we now +took aim, resolving to kill as many of them as our bullets would reach, +yet it was some time before we could dislodge them. The first volley did +not seem to affect them much, but on the second they began to scramble +away as fast as they could, some howling and others limping. We continued +to fire as long as we could see the least glimpse of any of them through +the bushes. Among these were two very robust men, who maintained their +ground without moving an inch till they found themselves forsaken by all +their companions, and then, disdaining to run, they marched off with +great composure and deliberation. One of them, however, got a fall, and +either lay there or crawled away on his hands and feet; but the other +escaped without any apparent hurt. Mr. Burney now improved their panic, +and, supported by the marines, leaped on shore and pursued the fugitives. +We had not advanced far from the water-side, on the beach, before we met +with two bunches of celery, which had been gathered by the cutter's crew. +A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to which the natives had +tied their canoes, whereby we were convinced this was the spot where the +attack had been made. We now searched all along at the back of the beach, +to see if the cutter was there, but instead of her, the most horrible +scene was presented to our view; for there lay the hearts, heads, and +lungs of several of our people, with hands and limbs in a mangled +condition, some broiled and some raw; but no other parts of their bodies, +which made us suspect that the cannibals had feasted upon and devoured +the rest. At a little distance we saw the dogs gnawing their entrails. We +observed a large body of the natives collected together on a hill about +two miles off, but as night drew on apace, we could not advance to such a +distance; neither did we think it safe to attack them, or even to quit +the shore to take an account of the number killed, our troop being a very +small one, and the savages were both numerous, fierce, and much +irritated. While we remained almost stupefied on the spot, Mr. Fannen +said that he heard the cannibals assembling in the woods, on which we +returned to our boat, and having hauled alongside the canoes, we +demolished three of them. During this transaction the fire on the top of +the hill disappeared, and we could hear the savages in the woods at high +words, quarrelling, perhaps, on account of their different opinions, +whether they should attack us and try to save their canoes. They were +armed with long lances, and weapons not unlike a sergeant's halbert in +shape, made of hard wood, and mounted with bone instead of iron. We +suspected that the dead bodies of our people had been divided among those +different parties of cannibals who had been concerned in the massacre, +and it was not improbable that the group we saw at a distance by the fire +were feasting upon some of them, as those on shore had been where the +remains were found, before they had been disturbed by our unexpected +visit. Be that as it may, we could discover no traces of more than four +of our friends' bodies, nor could we find the place where the cutter was +concealed. It now grew dark, on which account we collected carefully the +remains of our mangled friends, and, putting off, made the best of our +way from this polluted place. When we opened the upper part of the Sound, +we saw a very large fire about three or four miles higher up, which +formed a complete oval, reaching from the top of a hill down almost to +the water-side, the middle space being enclosed all round by the fire, +like a hedge. Mr. Burney and Mr. Fannen having consulted together, they +were both of opinion that we could, by an attempt, reap no other +advantage than the poor satisfaction of killing some more of the savages. +Upon leaving Grass Cove we had fired a volley towards where we heard the +Indians talking, but by going in and out of the boat our pieces had got +wet, and four of them missed fire. What rendered our situation more +critical, it began to rain, and our ammunition was more than half +expended. We, for these reasons, without spending time where nothing +could be hoped for but revenge, proceeded for the ship, and arrived safe +aboard before midnight.'" + +It is a little remarkable that Captain Furneaux had been several times up +Grass Cove with Captain Cook, where they saw no inhabitants, and no other +signs of any but a few deserted villages, which appeared as if they had +not been occupied for many years, and yet, in Mr. Burney's opinion, when +he entered the same cove, there could not be less than fifteen hundred or +two thousand people. + +On Thursday, the 23rd of December, the Adventure departed from, and made +sail out of, the Sound. She stood to the eastward, to clear the straits, +which was happily effected the same evening; but the ship was baffled for +two or three days with light winds before she could clear the coast. In +this interval of time the chests and effects of the ten men who had been +murdered were sold before the mast, according to an old sea custom. + +When Captain Cook was in the Sound on his third voyage, he learned that +the massacre arose over an unpremeditated quarrel. Kahura, who had been +active in the tragedy, told Cook that a Maori having brought a stone +hatchet to barter, the man to whom it was offered took it, and would +neither return it nor give anything for it, and on which the owner +snatched some bread from the party of Europeans, who were at dinner on +the beach, as an equivalent, and then the quarrel began. Kahura himself +had a narrow escape of being shot, while another was shot beside him; and +the Europeans, outnumbered, were surrounded and killed. It was also +stated by the natives that not one of the shots fired by the party of +Captain Furneaux led by Mr. Burney to search for the missing people had +taken effect so as to kill or even to hurt a single person. + + + + + +APPENDIX II. + +THE DEATH OF WHAREUMU (KING GEORGE). + + +The death of this Bay of Islands chief, who acted as protector to Mr. +Earle during his residence at Kororareka, is thus described by Messrs. +Hobbs and Stack, Wesleyan missionaries at Hokianga, in a letter dated +from Mangungu, Hokianga, on the 22nd March, 1828:-- + +"On the same day that Hongi died at Whangaroa a son of the late Pomare's, +named Tiki, was killed at Waima by a chief of the tribe called +Mahurihuri. Waima is in Hokianga, and only a few miles distance from us. +The cause of the quarrel was this: Tiki had had some of his pigs stolen +by the natives of Waima, and he was seeking utu by robbing their sweet +potato plantations, for which he was shot. + +"As soon as the report of the young man's death reached the Bay of +Islands, 400 natives collected together, forming two divisions, under two +separate chiefs, Whareumu, or, as he is called by the Europeans, King +George, and Toi, and came to Hokianga. Toi and his party arrived first at +Waima, where he found Patuone and all the natives and other chiefs of our +district. After robbing the natives of Waima of their potatoes, etc., +peace was made, and no further evil consequences seemed likely to arise. +The next day, the 14th, Whareumu and his party arrived. He was highly +displeased with Toi for having made peace on such easy terms. He +prevailed upon him, therefore, to break his league. Whareumu was also +very insolent to Muriwai, intimated that he was a coward, and poured +contempt upon the idea of the Hokianga natives standing in their own +defence. On the morning of the 15th a quarrel ensued between the 400 Bay +of Islanders and the natives of Waima, our natives also having now become +their allies. This fray did not at the outset seem likely to be attended +with fatal results, but, as Solomon justly observes, the beginning of +strife is like the letting out of water; so it was in this instance. +Shots were fired on both sides till several were killed and wounded. At +length Muriwai, who was a pacificator, was wounded and fell. Supposing he +was killed, our natives (for the natives of Waima fled as soon as matters +assumed a serious aspect) no longer regarded matters lightly, but turned +round in great rage, for they also were in the act of retreating, and +singled out Whareumu as a satisfaction for Muriwai. Whareumu received two +balls before he was killed. The one which killed him went through his +throat. As soon as he fell all his followers fled, leaving about nine of +their companions dead on the field, amongst whom was Oro, the chief who +commenced our Whangaroa robbing. This ended the contest. Patuone and Nene +immediately took up the body of the fallen chief and made great +lamentation over him, and have since placed his body between the bodies +of their own relations as a mark of respect." + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative of a Nine Months' +Residence in New Zealand in 1827, by Augustus Earle + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEW ZEALAND IN 1827 *** + +***** This file should be named 11933.txt or 11933.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/1/9/3/11933/ + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram and PG Distributed Proofreaders + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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