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diff --git a/old/14594.txt b/old/14594.txt deleted file mode 100644 index c6a9a13..0000000 --- a/old/14594.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9045 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Cassell's Vegetarian Cookery, by A. G. Payne - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Cassell's Vegetarian Cookery - A Manual Of Cheap And Wholesome Diet - -Author: A. G. Payne - -Release Date: January 4, 2005 [EBook #14594] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CASSELL'S VEGETARIAN COOKERY *** - - - - -Produced by Feòrag NicBhrìde and the PG Online Distributed -Proofreading Team - - - - - - -CASSELL'S VEGETARIAN COOKERY. - -BY A.G. PAYNE, B.A. - - * * * * * - -SUGG'S GOLD MEDAL "WESTMINSTER" -GAS KITCHENERS. - -ENAMELLED INSIDE AND UNDER HOT-PLATE. - -[Illustration] - -_PERFECT FOR ROASTING, BAKING, GRILLING, TOASTING, AND BOILING._ - -_WILL DO ALL THAT ANY STOVE OF THE SAME SIZE CAN DO--ONLY MUCH BETTER._ - -The only Gas Kitchener which Bakes Bread perfectly. Send for Pamphlet on -SUGG'S NEW METHOD OF BAKING BREAD. - -LET ON HIRE By the Gas Light and Coke Co., the South Metropolitan Gas Co., -Brentford, Tottenham, and many other Gas Companies. - -WILLIAM SUGG & CO., Ltd., REGENCY ST., WESTMINSTER. - - * * * * * - -Complete in Four Vols., price 5s. each. - -CASSELL'S - -Book of the Household. - -A Valuable and Practical Work on Every Department of Household Management. -_With Numerous Illustrations_. - -The _Guardian_ says: "AN EXCELLENT WORK, WHICH SHOULD BE IN THE HANDS OF -EVERY HOUSEKEEPER, is CASSELL'S BOOK OF THE HOUSEHOLD. Here we find the -most varied information and the soundest of advice. The household, its -members and their family life, are considered and discussed; children and -their training, health and disease, food and clothing, furnishing, -furniture, and household mechanics. The arrangement and treatment of these -various subjects are admirable, and the book is certainly a most valuable -and practical manual of household management." - -The _Queen_ says: "A BOOK SO HANDY AND PRACTICAL OUGHT TO BE ADOPTED BY -EVERY WELL-ORDERED FAMILY. Its plan is so comprehensive, it will include -every part of the house and its requirements, and all the members of the -family and their mutual relations, duties, and responsibilities." - -The _Weekly Dispatch_ says: "We do not know of any more practical or more -valuable work on household management. It is worth its weight in gold." - -The _Scotsman_ says: "The first volume has appeared of a book which -promises to be of great and extensive utility. It is A CYCLOPAEDIA OF -INFORMATION ON ALL QUESTIONS CONNECTED WITH THE MANAGEMENT OF A HOUSEHOLD, -and does not enter into comparison with books that treat merely of -provisions for the table. Various hands have evidently been employed in -working up the various sections, and every subject is dealt with in a -thoroughly competent style. The book is admirably appointed in every -respect, and contains many illustrations, all of the most useful character, -and beautifully printed. EVERY ONE WHO HAS TO DO IN ANY WAY WITH THE -MANAGEMENT OF A HOUSEHOLD WILL FIND THIS BOOK INVALUABLE." - -The _Liverpool Mercury_ says: "CASSELL'S BOOK OF THE HOUSEHOLD is another -book, of a class of which many have been issued, and good books too; but -this one, by the thoroughness and comprehensiveness of its arrangement, -will go far to render the housewife who possesses it independent of all the -rest.... Many a housewife will find the articles interesting enough to be -taken up at any leisure hour." - -The _Glasgow Herald_ says: "The work promises to be the most complete thing -of the kind in existence, and even the first volume by itself is a perfect -household encyclopaedia." - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -SAVES TIME, TROUBLE, AND EXPENSE. - -ASK YOUR GROCER FOR GRIDLEY & CO'S ISINGLASSINE. - -"PURE, NUTRITIOUS AND WHOLESOME." - -_Arthur Hill Hassall_ -_E. Godwin Clayton_ - -A SIXPENNY PACKET WILL MAKE 1 QUART OF BRILLIANT JELLY. - -NO BOILING OR SOAKING REQUIRED. TO BE HAD OF ALL GROCERS - -_THREE GOLD MEDALS AWARDED._ - -HIGHEST TESTIMONIALS. - - * * * * * - -The London Vegetarian Society, - -THE MEMORIAL HALL, FARRINGDON STREET, E.C. - -President--A.F. HILLS, Esq. -Treasurer--ERNEST BELL, Esq., M.A. -Secretary--MAY YATES. - -THE LONDON VEGETARIAN SOCIETY is established for the purpose of advocating -the total disuse of the flesh of animals (fish, flesh, and fowl) as food, -and promoting instead a more extensive use of fruits, grains, nuts, and -other products of the vegetable kingdom; and also to disseminate -information as to the meaning and principles of Vegetarianism by lectures, -pamphlets, letters to the Press, &c.; and by these means, and through the -example and efforts of its Members, to extend the adoption of a principle -tending essentially to true civilisation, to universal humaneness, and to -the increase of human happiness generally. - -Members adopt in its entirety the Vegetarian system of diet. Associates -agree to promote the aims of the Society, but do not pledge themselves to -its practice. - -SUBSCRIBERS ARE ENTITLED TO THE FOLLOWING ADVANTAGES: - -ONE SHILLING PER ANNUM.--Minimum Subscription. - -FIVE SHILLINGS PER ANNUM.--Tickets for Four Monthly Receptions, Four -Debates, and Four Conversaziones at half-price, and be entitled to receive, -free by post, copies of all new literature published by the Society under -6d. - -TEN SHILLINGS PER ANNUM.--Tickets for Four Monthly Receptions, Four -Debates, and Four Conversaziones, and to receive, free by post, copies of -all new literature published by the Society under 1s. - -ONE GUINEA PER ANNUM.--Tickets for Four Monthly Receptions, Four Debates -and Four Conversaziones, and to receive, free by post, all new literature -published by the Society under 2s., and copies of the _Vegetarian_, _The -Hygienic Review_, and the _Vegetarian Messenger_. - - * * * * * - -POOR MAN'S FRIEND AND PILLS. - -DR. ROBERTS' OINTMENT CALLED POOR MAN'S FRIEND Will Cure WOUNDS and SORES -of every description - -DR. ROBERTS' ALTERATIVE PILLS For DISEASES of the BLOOD and SKIN. - -_Of all Chemists, or of the Proprietors_, BRIDPORT, DORSET. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration] - -THE "RAPID" COOKERY STEAMER. - -TO FIT ANY SAUCEPAN. - -_From 1s. each._ - -OF ALL IRONMONGERS. - - * * * * * - -_NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION._ - -A YEAR'S COOKERY. - -Giving Dishes for Breakfast, Luncheon, and Dinner for every Day in the -Year, By PHYLLIS BROWNE. Cloth gilt, 3s. 6d. - -To the New Edition of this popular book (which has already attained a sale -of upwards of Twenty Thousand Copies) additional pages have been added on -Food for Invalids. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -_Price_ 2s. 6d. - -A HANDBOOK FOR THE NURSING OF SICK CHILDREN. By CATHERINE J. WOOD. - -"Miss Wood's book is succinct, clearly written, and goes straight to the -heart of each detail in a thoroughly business-like fashion."--_Health_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -_THE LARGEST, CHEAPEST, AND BEST COOKERY BOOK._ - -1,280 pages, royal 8vo, cloth, 7s. 6d.; roxburgh, 10s. 6d. - -CASSELL'S -Dictionary of Cookery. - -ILLUSTRATED THROUGHOUT. - -CONTAINING ABOUT 9,000 RECIPES. - -"CASSELL'S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY is one of the most thorough and -comprehensive works of the kind. To expatiate on its abundant contents -would demand pages rather than paragraphs."--_The Times_. - -"One of the most handsome, practical, and comprehensive books of -cookery."--_Saturday Review_. - -"It seems to us that this book is absolutely what it claims to be--that is, -the largest and most complete collection of the kind ever produced in this -country; an encyclopaedia, in fact, of the culinary art in all its -branches. It is a dictionary which should be in every household, and -studied by every woman who recognises her true mission in the -world."--_Christian World_. - -"CASSELL'S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY is not only full of solid and valuable -information as to the best method of preparing food in an endless variety -of forms, but it will enable a housekeeper to grasp principles on which -food may be cooked to the greatest perfection. It supplies the reason why -one method is right and another wrong. An estimate of the cost of each -recipe is given, which is valuable information. The recipes themselves are -given in terms intelligible to the meanest capacity."--_Athenaeum_. - -"CASSELL'S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY contains about 9,000 recipes, and is -preceded by a treatise on the Principles of Culinary Art and Table -Management, which will simply be found invaluable not only by cooks, as -those most interested in such instructions, but by every mistress of a -household, large or small.... The woodcuts dispersed through the pages not -only illustrate some of the various species of fish, game, fruit, -vegetables, and herbs to which the recipes refer, but serve to make the -directions for carving more intelligible, while the coloured plates -represent appetising dishes elaborately garnished, or fruit tastefully -arranged, with several less inviting pictures of 'bad and good joints of -meat' contrasted with each other side by side."--_Morning Post_. - -"The best Cookery book extant. We know of no equal, either in the -arrangement of its contents, the number of its recipes, or the elegance of -its illustrations."--_York Herald_. - -"Being complete, it tells us how to dress a table for the smallest dinner, -but what I value more in it is that it reminds us of the simplest and -cheapest of dishes, and gives their cost. There are more shilling or -sixpenny preparations in this book than those of greater cost."--_Western -Morning News_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -CASSELL'S -VEGETARIAN COOKERY. - - * * * * * - -CROSSE & BLACKWELL'S PICKLES, SAUCES, FLAVOURING ESSENCES, - -_PARISIAN ESSENCE FOR GRAVIES_, - -Grated Parmesan Cheese in Bottles, - -PURE LUCCA OIL, - -Malt Vinegar and Table Delicacies, - -_ARE SOLD BY ALL GROCERS_. - -CROSSE & BLACKWELL, - -Purveyors to the Queen, - -SOHO SQUARE, LONDON. - - * * * * * - - -CASSELL'S VEGETARIAN COOKERY. - -A MANUAL OF _CHEAP AND WHOLESOME DIET_. - -BY - -A.G. PAYNE, B.A. - -AUTHOR OF "CHOICE DISHES," ETC. - -[Illustration] - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED: - -_LONDON, PARIS & MELBOURNE_. - -1891. - - * * * * * - -For Puddings, Blanc-Mange, Custards, CHILDREN'S AND INVALIDS' DIET, _And -all the Uses of Arrowroot_, - -BROWN & POLSON'S CORN FLOUR - -HAS A WORLD-WIDE REPUTATION, AND IS DISTINGUISHED FOR _UNIFORMLY SUPERIOR -QUALITY_. - -NOTE.--Purchasers should insist on being supplied with BROWN & POLSON'S -CORN FLOUR. Inferior qualities, asserting fictitious claims, are being -offered. - - * * * * * - -80th THOUSAND, _price_ 1s.; _post free_, 1s. 3d. - -CASSELL'S SHILLING COOKERY. - -This new and valuable Work contains 364 pages, crown 8vo, bound in limp -cloth. - -"This is the LARGEST AND MOST COMPREHENSIVE WORK on the subject of cookery -ever yet published at the price."--_Christian Age_. - -"Housekeepers WILL SAVE MANY SHILLINGS if they follow the practical -suggestions and excellent advice given."--_Bazaar_. - -"CASSELL'S SHILLING COOKERY is certainly the cheapest manual for the -kitchen we have ever received. There are 360 pages of recipes, the book is -serviceably bound, and should prove a treasure to any young wife."--_Weekly -Times and Echo_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - - - - -PREFACE. - - -The present work, though written upon strictly vegetarian principles, is by -no means addressed to vegetarians only. On the contrary, we hope that the -following pages of recipes will be read by that enormous class throughout -the country who during the last few years have been gradually changing -their mode of living by eating far _less_ meat, and taking vegetables and -farinaceous food as a substitute. - -Where there are thousands who are vegetarians from choice, there are tens -of thousands who are virtually vegetarians from necessity. Again, there is -another large class who from time to time adopt a vegetarian course of diet -on the ground of health, and as a means of escaping from the pains -attendant on gout, liver complaint, or dyspepsia. - -The class we most wish to reach, however, is that one, increasing we fear, -whose whole life is one continual struggle not merely to live, but to live -decently. - -It may seem a strong statement, but we believe it to be a true one, that -only those who have tried a strictly vegetarian course of diet know what -real _economy_ means. Should the present work be the means of enabling -even one family to become not only better in health but richer in pocket, -it will not have been written in vain. - -A.G. PAYNE. - - * * * * * - -SOLIDIFIED JELLY. - -[Illustration] - -By Royal Letters Patent in Great Britain and Ireland, 1888 Patented in the -Dominion of Canada, 1889. Patented in France, 1889. N. S. Wales, 1889. -Victoria, 1889. Other Foreign Rights reserved. - -CHELSEA TABLE JELLIES, - -The Inventor and Patentee, in introducing this high-class article of food, -begs to warn the Public that the great success and enormous demand the -CHELSEA TABLE JELLIES have obtained in Great Britain has brought many -imitators on the Market. A few Stores and Grocers are offering same to the -Public, no doubt for the purpose of wishing to appear cheaper, or for -making extra profit. The favour for the CHELSEA TABLE JELLY has been -obtained solely upon the merits of the article, and it is held to be the -greatest invention of the kind, bringing within the reach of all classes -this hitherto almost unobtainable luxury. This has been fully endorsed by -the unsolicited testimony of high-class British journals. - -The article is put up in cardboard boxes, in quantities to make 1/2-pints, -pints, and quarts of jelly, and the following are some of the flavours: -Lemon, Orange, Vanilla, Calves' Feet, Noyeau, Raspberry, Punch, and -Madeira. It should not be confounded with the ordinary fruit Jelly, which -is a totally different article, _this being a pure Calves' Feet jelly_, -superseding the use of gelatine in packets for jelly purposes--this latter, -as will easily be seen, being now a thing of the past. On each box is -printed a public analyst's report, also full directions for use. - -_The following advantages are claimed over all other Calves Feet -jellies_:-- - -1. It is less than one-third of the price of bottled jellies, and superior -in quality. - -2. It never gets mildewed or corky. - -3. It never fails to set or jellify. - -4. Its extreme simpleness of preparation, only requiring to be melted by -the addition of hot water, no flavouring or other matter being required. - -5. It will keep good for any time until made up, when it will keep good -longer than other jellies. - -6. The largest quantity can be made in a few minutes. - -For persons suffering from dyspepsia or any other ailment, it will also be -found to be a great boon, as it can be cut and eaten in the solidified -state with great satisfaction. On sea voyages and excursions of any kind -it will be found invaluable. - -_BEWARE OF SPURIOUS IMITATIONS, and ask only for the_ WALTER ROBERTSON -CHELSEA TABLE JELLY. - -ARTICLES OF MERIT ARE OFTEN PIRATED BY UNPRINCIPLED TRADERS. - -To be had of all GROCERS, STORES, and CONFECTIONERS. - - -_CERTIFICATE OF ANALYSIS_. - -Sample of CHELSEA TABLE JELLY. Received 1888. - -_I certify that the following are the results of the analysis of the above -samples_: - -I have examined a sample of Chelsea Table jelly, and find it to be a -mixture of Calves' Feet jelly and sugar; it is undoubtedly nutritious and -wholesome. - -It is superior to other samples that I have analysed, as it in much firmer -and keeps well. - -It is clear and bright, and has evidently been carefully manufactured from -pure materials. - -It has a pleasant flavour, and is of excellent quality. - -_(Signed)_ R. H. HARLAND, F.I,C., F.C.S. - -Laboratory, Plough Court, 37, Lombard Street. _Public Analyst_. - - -Copy of Testimonial received August 26th, 1891 (_unsolicited_). - -59, Windsor Road, Southport. _August 25th_, 1891. - -GENTLEMEN,--I may inform you that I have tried other makers of jellies, but -have found none to equal yours in excellence of quality. I have mentioned -this fact frequently to Mr. Seymour Mead and to my friends. I am also -deeply indebted to you from the fact that a little niece of mine was fed -almost exclusively on your Calves' Feet Jelly for a period of three months, -and who, when she refused to take other things, always took most willingly -to your jellies. - -Yours respectfully, - -W, ROBERTSON & Co. M. T. HANSON. - -_This and others may be inspected at the Works, Chelsea, London._ - - -INVENTORS AND SOLE MANUFACTURERS (WHOLESALE ONLY): - -WALTER ROBERTSON & CO., CHELSEA, LONDON, S.W., ENGLAND - - * * * * * - - - - -CONTENTS. - - -PAGE. - -CHAP. I.--Soups 17 - - II.--SAUCES 44 - III.--RICE, MACARONI, OATMEAL 60 - IV.--EGGS AND OMELETS 78 - V.--SALADS AND SANDWICHES 96 - VI.--SAVOURY DISHES 108 - VII.--VEGETABLES, SUBSTANTIAL 122 - VIII.--VEGETABLES, FRESH 137 - IX.--PRESERVED VEGETABLES AND FRUITS 152 - X.--JELLIES (VEGETARIAN) AND JAMS 158 - XI.--CREAMS, CUSTARDS, AND CHEESECAKES 165 - XII.--STEWED FRUITS AND FRUIT ICES 171 - XIII.--CAKES AND BREAD 177 - XIV.--PIES AND PUDDINGS 182 - - * * * * * - -E.F. LANGDALE'S -PRIZE MEDAL. - -Flavouring Essences and Domestic Specialities - -FOR PIES, PUDDINGS, SOUPS, GRAVIES, ICES, &c. - -_Prepared direct from Herbs, Fruits, and Spices, gathered in their bloom -and freshness._ - -Specially awarded Prize Medals, Great International Exhibition, -London, 1851 and 1862. - -(Recommended for all the Recipes in this work.) - -_"E.F. LANGDALE'S" should always be insisted upon. -They are Purest, Best, and Cheapest._ - - -Essence Lemon. -Strong Essence Vanilla. -Purified Essence Almonds -Essence Noyau. - " Raspberries. -Essence Ginger. - " Orange. - " Ratafia. - " Celery. - " Strawberries. - - - * * * * * - -E.F. LANGDALE'S - -Fruit Pudding, Blancmange, and. Custard Powders - -MAKE DELICIOUS PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, & BLANCMANGE. - -_In 2d. and 6d. Packets. Sold everywhere._ - - -ALMOND. -LEMON. -VANILLA. -RASPBERRY. -PINE APPLE. -RATAFIA. -STRAWBERRY. -NECTARINE. -CHOCOLATE, &c. - - - * * * * * - -E.F. LANGDALE'S -Prepared Dried English Herbs, &c. - - -Garden Mint. -Savoury. -Parsley. -Sage. -Lemon Thyme. -Basil. -Mixed Sweet Herbs. - " Soup " -Tarragon. - - -_Celery Seeds. Celery Salt. Herbaceous Mixture._ - -E.F. LANGDALE'S REFINED JAMAICA LIME JUICE AND PURE LEMON JUICE. - -Distilled Tarragon and Chill Vinegar for Salads and Sauces. - - * * * * * - -Sole Agent for - -J. Delcroix & Cie. Concentrated Parisian Essence, - -FOR BROWNING GRAVIES, &c. (_See pages 20, 22._) Which should always be -bought with their Name. As used by all _Chefs_. - -J. DELCROIX & CIE. Pure Green Vegetable Coloured Spinach Extract. _Perfectly -Harmless_. - -J. DELCROIX & CIE. Brilliant Extract Cochineal for Tinting Ices, Pies, &c. - - * * * * * - -E. F. LANGDALE'S "Essence Distillery," - -72 & 73, HATTON GARDEN, LONDON, E.C. Estab. 1770. - -Pamphlets, Recipes, &c., post free. All the above can be obtained of any -leading Grocer. We will send name of nearest Agent on receipt of post -card. - - * * * * * - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - -We wish it to be distinctly understood at starting, that the present work -is purely a cookery-book, written on the principles generally adopted by -vegetarians; and as, until quite recently, there seemed to be in the minds -of many some doubt as to the definition of vegetarianism, we will quote the -following explanation from the head of the report of the London Vegetarian -Society:--"The aims of the London Vegetarian Society are to advocate the -total disuse of the flesh of animals (fish, flesh, and fowl) as food, and -to promote a more extensive use of pulse, grains, fruits, nuts, and other -products of the vegetable kingdom, thus propagating a principle tending -essentially to true civilisation, to universal humaneness, and to the -increase of happiness generally." - -We have no intention of writing a treatise on vegetarianism, but we -consider a few words of explanation necessary. Years back many persons -were under the impression that by vegetarianism was meant simply an -abstention from flesh-meat, but that fish was allowed. Such, however, is -not the case, according to the rules of most of the Vegetarian Societies of -the day. On the other hand, strictly speaking, real vegetarians would not -be allowed the use of eggs and milk; but it appears that many use these, -though there are a considerable number of persons who abstain. There is no -doubt that the vegetable kingdom, without either milk or eggs, contains -every requisite for the support of the human body. In speaking on this -subject, Sir Henry Thompson observes:--"The vegetable kingdom comprehends -the cereals, legumes, roots, starches, sugar, herbs, and fruits. Persons -who style themselves vegetarians often consume milk, eggs, butter, and -lard, which are choice foods from the animal kingdom. There are other -persons, of course, who are strictly vegetarian eaters, and such alone have -any right to the title of vegetarians." - -In the following pages will be found ample recipes for the benefit of -parties who take either view. In questions of this kind there will always -be found conflicting views. We have no wish or desire to give opinions, -but consider it will be more advisable, and probably render the book far -more useful, if we confine ourselves as much as possible to facts. - -The origin of vegetarianism is as old as the history of the world itself, -and probably from time immemorial there have been sects which have -practised vegetarianism, either as a religious duty, or under the belief -that they would render the body more capable of performing religious -duties. In the year 1098, or two years prior to the date of Henry I., -there was a strictly vegetarian society formed in connection with the -Christian Church, which lived entirely on herbs and roots, and the society -has lasted to the present day. Again, there have been many sects who, not -so strict, have allowed themselves the use of fish. - -Again, there are those who adopt a vegetarian course of diet on the ground -of health. Many maintain that diseases like gout and dyspepsia would -disappear were vegetarian diet strictly adhered to. On the other hand, we -have physicians who maintain that the great cause of indigestion is not -eating enough. An American physician, some years ago, alleged he had -discovered the cause, his argument being that the more work the stomach had -to do the stronger it would become, on the same principle that the arm of a -blacksmith is more powerful in consequence of hard work. Of one thing we -are certain, and that is, there will always be rival physicians and rival -sects; but the present work will simply be a guide to _those who require, -from whatever cause, a light form of diet_. Perhaps the greatest benefit -vegetarians can do their cause--and there are many who think very strongly -on the subject--is to endeavour to take a dispassionate view. Rome was not -built in a day; and if we look back at the past history of this country, -during the last half-century, in regard to food, we shall see that there -have been many natural changes at work. Waves of thought take place -backwards and forwards, but still the tide may flow. Some fifty years ago -there was, undoubtedly, a strong impression (with a large number of -right-minded people) that plenty of meat, beer, and wine were good for all, -even for young children. The medical profession are very apt to run in -flocks, and follow some well-known leader. At the period to which we -refer, numbers of anxious mothers would have regarded the advice to bring -up their children as vegetarians and teetotallers as positive cruelty. -This old-fashioned idea has passed away. - -One great motive for adopting a course of vegetarian diet is economy; and -here we feel that we stand on firm ground, without danger of offending -sincere opinions, which are often wrongly called prejudices. To a great -extent, the majority of the human race are virtually vegetarians from -necessity. Nor do we find feebleness either of mind or body necessarily -ensues. We believe there are tens of thousands of families who would give -vegetarianism a trial were it not for fear. Persons are too apt to think -that bodily strength depends upon the nature of the food we eat. In India -we have a feeble race, living chiefly on rice. On the other hand, in -China, for bodily strength, few can compare with the Coolies. For many -years in Scotland the majority lived on oatmeal, while in Ireland they -lived on potatoes. We do not wish to argue anything from these points, but -to bring them forward for consideration. Probably, strength of body and -mind, as a general rule, depends upon breed, and this argument tells two -ways--it does not follow that vegetarians will be necessarily strong, and -will cease to be cruel; nor does it follow that those who have been -accustomed all their lives to eat meat will cease to be strong should they -become vegetarians. As we have said, the great motive that induces many to -give vegetarianism a trial is economy; and if persons would once get rid of -the idea that they risk their health by making a trial, much would be done -to advance the cause. - -Another great reason for persons hesitating to make a trial is the -revolution it would create in their households. Here again we are beset by -difficulties, and these difficulties can only disappear gradually, after -long years of patience. We believe the progress towards vegetarianism must -of necessity be a very slow one. No large West End tradesman could -possibly insist upon his whole establishment becoming vegetarians because -he becomes one himself. We believe and hope that the present work will -benefit those who are undergoing a slow but gradual change in their mode of -living. This is easiest in small households, where no servants are kept at -all, where the mistress is both cook and mother. It is in such households -that the change is possible, and very often most desirable. In many cases -trial will be made gradually. The great difficulty to contend with is -prejudice, or, rather, we may say, habit. There are many housekeepers who -feel that their bill of fare would instantly become extremely limited were -they to adopt vegetarian ideas. There are few better dinners--especially -for children--than a good basin of soup, with plenty of bread; yet, as a -rule, there are few housekeepers who would know how to make vegetarian soup -at all. In our present work we have given a list of sixty-four soups. At -any rate, here is no lack of variety, as small housekeepers in this country -are not famed for their knowledge of soup making, even with gravy-beef at -their disposal. - -On looking down this list it will be observed that in many cases cream--or, -at any rate, milk--is recommended. We can well imagine the housekeeper -exclaiming, "I don't call this economy." This is one point about which we -consider a few words of explanation necessary. We will suppose a family of -eight, who have been accustomed to live in the ordinary way, are going to -have a vegetarian dinner by way of trial. Some soup has to be made, and -one or two vegetables from the garden or the greengrocer's, as the case may -be, are going to be cooked on a new method, and the housekeeper is -horrified at the amount of butter she finds recommended for the sauce. -People must, however, bear in mind that changes are gradual, and that -often, at first starting, a degree of richness, or what they would consider -extravagance, is advisable if they wish to _reconcile others_ to the -change. In our dinner for eight we would first ask them how much meat -would they have allowed a head? At the very lowest computation, it could -not have been decently done under a quarter of a pound each, even if the -dish of meat took the economical form of an Irish stew; and had a joint, -such as a leg of mutton, been placed upon the table, it would probably have -been considerably more than double. Supposing, however, instead of the -meat, we have three vegetables--say haricot beans, potatoes, and a cabbage. -With the assistance of some really good butter sauce, these vegetables, -eaten with bread, make an agreeable meal, which, especially in hot weather, -would probably be a pleasant change. Supposing, for the sake of argument, -you use half a pound of butter in making the butter sauce. This sounds, to -ordinary cooks, very extravagant, even supposing butter to be only one -shilling per pound. Suppose, however, this half a pound of butter is used -as a means of going without a leg of mutton? That is the chief point to be -borne in mind in a variety of recipes to follow. The cream, butter, and -eggs are often recommended in what will appear as wholesale quantities, -but, as a set-off against this, you have no butcher's bill at all. We do -not maintain that this apparently unlimited use of butter, eggs, and -occasionally cream, is necessary; but we believe that there are many -families who will be only able to make the change by substituting "_nice_" -dishes, at any rate at first starting, to make up for the loss of the meat. -It is only by substituting a pleasant kind of food, that many will be -induced even to attempt to change. Gradually the living will become -cheaper and cheaper; but it is unwise to attempt, in a family, to do too -much at once. - -There are many soups we have given in which cream is recommended; for -instance, artichoke soup, bean soup, cauliflower soup, and celery soup. -After partaking of a well-made basin of one of these soups, followed by one -or two vegetables and a fruit pie or stewed fruit, there are many persons -who would voluntarily remark, "I don't seem to care for any meat." On the -other hand, were the vegetables served in the old-fashioned style, but -without any meat, there are many who would feel that they were undergoing a -species of privation, even if they did not say so--we refer to a dish of -plain-boiled potatoes and dry bread, or even the ordinary cabbage served in -the usual way. Supposing, however, a nice little new cabbage is sent to -table, with plenty of really good white sauce or butter sauce, over which -has been sprinkled a little bright green parsley, whilst some crisp fried -bread surrounds the dish--the cabbage is converted into a meal; and if we -take into account the absence of the meat, we still save enormously. The -advice we would give, especially to young housekeepers, is, "Persuasion is -better than force." If you wish to teach a child to swim, it is far easier -to entice him into shallow water on a hot summer's day than to throw him in -against his will in winter time. - -Another point which we consider of great importance is appearances. As far -as possible, we should endeavour to make the dishes look pretty. We are -appealing to a very large class throughout the country who at all cost wish -to keep up appearances. It is an important class, and one on which the -slow but gradual march of civilisation depends. We fear that any attempt -to improve the extreme poor, who live surrounded by dirt and misery, would -be hopeless, unless they still have some lingering feeling of this -self-respect. For the poor woman who snatches a meal off -bread-and-dripping, which she eats without a table-cloth, and then repairs -to the gin-shop to wash it down, nothing can be done. This class will -gradually die out as civilisation advances. This is seen, even in the -present day, in America. - -Fortunately, there is plenty of scope in vegetarian cooking not merely for -refinement, but even elegance. Do not despise the sprinkle of chopped -parsley and red specks of bread-crumbs coloured with cochineal, so often -referred to throughout the following pages. Remember that the cost of -these little accessories to comfort is virtually _nil_. We must remember -also that one sense works upon another. We can please the palate through -the eye. There is some undoubted connection between these senses. If you -doubt it, suck a lemon in front of a German band and watch the result. The -sight of meat causes the saliva to run from the mouths of the carnivorous -animals at the Zoo. This is often noticeable in the case of a dog watching -people eat, and it is an old saying, "It makes one's mouth water to look at -it." In the case of endeavouring to induce a change of living in grown-up -persons, such as husband or children, there is perhaps no method we can -pursue so efficacious as that of making dishes look pretty. A dish of -bright red tomatoes, reposing on the white bosom of a bed of macaroni, -relieved here and there by a few specks of green--what a difference to a -similar dish all mashed up together, and in which the macaroni showed signs -of dirty smears! - -We have endeavoured throughout this book to give chiefly directions about -those dishes which will replace meat. For instance, the vast majority of -pies and puddings will remain the same, and need no detailed treatment -here. Butter supplies the place of suet or lard, and any ordinary, -cookery-book will be found sufficient for the purpose; but it is in dealing -with soups, sauces, rice, macaroni, and vegetables, sent to table under new -conditions, that we hope this book will be found most useful. - -As a rule, English women cooks, especially when their title to the name -depends upon their being the mistress of the house, will often find that -soups and sauces are a weak point. Do not despise, in cooking, little -things. Those who really understand such matters will know how vast is the -difference in flavour occasioned by the addition of that pinch of thyme or -teaspoonful of savoury herbs, and yet there are tens of thousands of -houses, where meat is eaten every day, who never had a bottle of thyme at -their disposal in their lives. As we have said, if we are going to make a -great saving on meat, we can well afford a few trifles, so long as they are -trifles. A sixpenny bottle of thyme will last for months; and if we give -up our gravy beef, or piece of pickled pork, or two-pennyworth of bones, as -the case may be, surely we can afford a little indulgence of this kind. - -A few words on the subject of fritters. When will English housekeepers -grasp the idea of frying? They cannot get beyond a dab of grease or butter -in a frying-pan. The bath of boiling oil seems to be beyond them, or at -any rate a degree of civilisation that has not yet passed beyond the limit -of the fried-fish shop. The oil will do over and over again, and in the -end is undoubtedly cheaper than the dab of grease or butter thrown away. -There are hundreds of men who, in hot weather, would positively prefer a -well-cooked vegetable fritter to meat, but yet they rarely get it at home. -Fruit fritters are also very economical--orange fritters, apple fritters, -&c., because the batter helps to make the dish _a meal_. - -Those who have practised vegetarianism for many years will probably be of -opinion that we have not called sufficient attention to the subject of -fruit and nuts. This is not because we do not believe in their usefulness, -but because we think that those who are _changing_ their mode of living -will be far better enabled to do so without discomfort by making their -chief alterations in diet in the directions we have pointed out. There is -moreover little or no _cookery_ involved in these articles. - -Of the wholesomeness of fresh fruit all are agreed; and as people become -more advanced vegetarians, the desire for fruit and nuts will follow in due -course. In future years, as the demand increases, the supply will -increase; but this is a question of time. Lookers-on often see more of the -game than the players. It is not because the sudden change might not be -beneficial, but because sudden changes are only likely to be effected in -rare instances, that we have taken the view we have. Prejudice is strong, -and it would be very difficult to persuade persons, unless they had been -gradually brought to the change, to regard nuts in the light of food. To -suggest a meal off Brazil nuts would to many have a tendency to put -vegetarianism in a ridiculous light, and nothing kills so readily as -ridicule. - -In conclusion, it will be observed that from time to time we have used the -expression, "if wine be allowed." There is no necessary connection between -vegetarianism and teetotalism, but it would be affectation to deny the fact -that they are generally connected. Of the numerous arguments brought -forward by the advocates of vegetarianism, one is that, in the opinion of -many who speak with authority, a vegetarian diet is best adapted to -those--of whom, unfortunately, there are many--who, from time to time, have -a craving for more stimulant than is beneficial to their health. Many -medical men are of the opinion that large meat-eaters require alcoholic -stimulant, and that they can give up the latter more easily by abstaining -from the former. This is a question for medical men to decide, as it does -not properly come into the province of the cook. - -We have repeatedly mentioned the addition of wine and liqueurs; but when -these are used for flavouring purposes it is not to be regarded in the same -light as if taken alone. There is a common sense in these matters which -should never be overlooked. The teetotaler who attended the Lord Mayor's -dinner, and refused his glass of punch with his turtle-soup, would be -consistent; but to refuse the turtle-soup itself on the ground that a -little wine, probably Madeira, might have been added, would proclaim him to -be a faddist. It is to be regretted that in the present day so many good -causes have been injured by this ostentation of carrying ideas to an -extreme. Practically, where wine is used in cookery, it is added solely -for the peculiar flavour, and _the alcohol itself is evaporated_. To be -consistent, the vast majority of teetotal drinks, and possibly even stewed -fruit itself, would have to be refused on the same ground, viz., an almost -infinitely small trace of alcohol. We think it best to explain the reason -we have introduced the expression, "if wine be allowed." In each case it -is used for flavouring, and flavouring purposes only. We know that with -some persons a very small amount of stimulant creates a desire for more, -and when this is the case the small quantity should be avoided; but in the -case of the quantity being so infinitely small that it ceases to have this -effect, even if not boiled away as it really is, no harm can possibly -arise. Where wine is added to soups and sauces and exposed to heat, this -would be the case. On the other hand, in the case of tipsy-cake, and wine -added to _compote_ of fruit, this would probably not be the case. A great -distinction should be drawn between such cases. It will be found, however, -that in every case we have mentioned the addition is altogether optional, -or a substitute like lemon-juice can be used in its place. - - - - -VEGETARIAN COOKERY - -CHAPTER 1. - -SOUPS. - -GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS. - - -There are very few persons, unless they have made vegetarian cookery a -study, who are aware what a great variety of soups can be made without the -use of meat or fish. As a rule, ordinary cookery-books have the one -exception of what is called _soup maigre_. In England it seems to be the -impression that the goodness of the soup depends upon the amount of -nourishment that can be compressed into a small space. It is, however, a -great mistake to think that because we take a large amount of nourishment -we are necessarily nourished. There is a limit, though what that limit is -no one can say, beyond which soup becomes absolutely injurious. A quarter -of a pound of Liebig's Extract of Meat dissolved in half a pint of water is -obviously an over-dose of what is considered nourishment. In France, as a -rule, soup is prepared on an altogether different idea. It is a light, -thin broth, taken at the commencement of the meal to strengthen the -stomach, in order to render it capable of receiving more substantial food -to follow. Vegetarian soups are, of course, to be considered from this -latter point of view. - -We think these few preliminary observations necessary as we have to -overcome a very strong English prejudice, which is too apt to despise -everything of which the remark can be made--"Ah! but there is very little -nourishment in it." Vegetarian soups, as a rule, and especially the thin -ones, must be regarded as a light and pleasant flavouring which, with a -small piece of white bread enables the most obstinately delicate stomach to -commence a repast that experience has found best adapted to its -requirements. - -The basis of all soup is stock, and in making stock we, of course, have to -depend upon vegetables, fruit, or some kind of farinaceous food. To a -certain extent the water in which any kind of vegetable has been boiled may -be regarded as stock, especially water that has boiled roots, such as -potatoes; or grains, such as rice. It will not, however, be necessary to -enter into any general description as to the best method of obtaining -nutriment in a liquid form from vegetables and grain, as directions will be -given in each recipe, but a few words are necessary on the general subject -of flavouring stock. In making ordinary soup we are very much dependent -for flavour, if the soup be good, on the meat, the vegetables acting only -as accessories. In making stock for vegetarian soups we are chiefly -dependent for flavour on the vegetables themselves, and consequently great -care must be taken that these flavourings are properly _blended_. The -great difficulty in giving directions in cookery-books, and in -understanding them when given, is the insuperable one of avoiding vague -expressions. For instance, suppose we read, "Take two onions, one carrot, -one turnip, and one head of celery,"--what does this mean? It will be -found practically that these directions vary considerably according to the -neighbourhood or part of the country in which we live. For instance, so -much depends upon where we take our head of celery from. Suppose we bought -our head of celery in Bond Street or the Central Arcade in Covent Garden -Market on the one hand, or off a barrow in the Mile End Road on the other. -Again, onions vary so much in size that we cannot draw any hard-and-fast -line between a little pickling onion no bigger than a marble and a Spanish -onion as big as a baby's head. It would be possible to be very precise and -say, "Take so many ounces of celery, or so many pounds of carrot, but -practically we cannot turn the kitchen into a chemist's shop. Cooks, -whether told to use celery in heads or ounces, would act on guess-work just -the same. What are absolutely essential are two things--common sense and -experience. - -Again, practically, we must avoid giving too many ingredients. Novices in -the art of cooking are, of course, unable to distinguish between those -vegetables that are absolutely essential and those added to give a slight -extra flavour, but which make very little difference to the soup whether -they are added or not. We are often directed to add a few leaves of -tarragon, or chervil, or a handful of sorrel. Of course, in a large -kitchen, presided over by a Francatelli, these are easily obtainable; but -in ordinary private houses, and in most parts of the country, they are not -only unobtainable but have never even been heard of at the greengrocer's -shop. - -In making soups, as a rule, the four vegetables essential are, onion, -celery, carrot and turnip; and we place them in their order of merit. In -making vegetarian soup it is very important that we should learn how to -blend these without making any one flavour too predominant. This can only -be learnt by experience. If we have too much onion the soup tastes rank; -too much celery will make it bitter; too much carrot often renders the soup -sweet; and the turnip overpowers every other flavour. Again, these -vegetables vary so much in strength that were we to peel and weigh them the -result would not be uniform, in addition to the fact that not one cook in a -thousand would take the trouble to do it. Perhaps the most dangerous -vegetable with which we have to deal is turnip. These vary so very much in -strength that sometimes even one slice of turnip will be found too strong. -In flavouring soups with these vegetables, the first care should be to see -that they are thoroughly cleansed. In using celery, too much of the green -part should be avoided if you wish to make first-rate soup. In using the -onions, if they are old and strong, the core can be removed. In using -carrot, if you are going to have any soup where vegetables will be cut up -and served in the soup, you should always peel off the outside red part of -the carrot and reserve it for this purpose, and only use the inside or -yellow part for flavouring purposes if is going to be thrown away or to -lose its identity by being rubbed through a wire sieve with other -vegetables. With regard to turnip, we can only add one word of -caution--not too much. We may here mention, before leaving the subject of -ingredients, that leeks and garlic are a substitute for onion, and can also -be used in conjunction with it. - -As a rule, in vegetarian cookery clear soups are rare, and, of course, from -an economical point of view, they are not to be compared with thick soups. -Some persons, in making stock, recommend what is termed bran tea. Half a -pint of bran is boiled in about three pints of water, and a certain amount -of nutriment can be extracted from the bran, which also imparts colour. - -For the purpose of colouring clear soups, however, there is nothing in the -world to compare with what French cooks call _caramel_. Caramel is really -burnt sugar. There is a considerable art in preparing it, as it is -necessary that it should impart colour, and colour _only_. When prepared -in the rough-and-ready manner of burning sugar in a spoon, as is too often -practised in English kitchens, this desideratum is never attained, as you -are bound to impart sweetness in addition to a burnt flavour. The simplest -and by far the most economical method of using caramel is to buy it -ready-made. It is sold by all grocers under the name of Parisian Essence. -A small bottle, costing about eightpence, will last a year, and saves an -infinite loss of time, trouble, and temper. - -By far the most economical soups are the thick, where all the ingredients -can be rubbed through a wire sieve. Thick soups can be divided into two -classes--ordinary brown soup, and white soup. The ordinary brown is the -most economical, as in white soups milk is essential, and if the soup is -wished to be very good it is necessary to add a little cream. - -Soups owe their thickness to two processes. We can thicken the soup by -adding flour of various kinds, such as ordinary flour, corn-flour, &c., and -soup can also be thickened by having some of the ingredients of which it is -composed rubbed through a sieve. This class of soups may be called Purees. -For instance, Palestine soup is really a puree of Jerusalem artichokes; -ordinary pea soup is a puree of split peas. In making our ordinary -vegetarian soups of all kinds, as a rule, all the ingredients should be -rubbed through a sieve. The economy of this is obvious on the face of it. -In the case of thickening soup by means of some kinds of flour, for -richness and flavour there is nothing to equal ordinary flour that has been -cooked. This is what Frenchmen call roux. - -As white and brown roux are the very backbone of vegetarian cookery a few -words of explanation may not be out of place. On referring to the recipe -for making white and brown roux, it will be seen that it is simply flour -cooked by means of frying it in butter, In white roux each grain of flour -is cooked till it is done. In brown roux each grain of flour is cooked -till it is done brown. We cannot exaggerate the importance of getting -cooks to see the enormous difference between thickening soups or gravy with -white or brown roux and simply thickening them with plain butter and flour. -The taste of the soup in the two cases is altogether different. The -difference is this. Suppose you have just been making some pastry--some -good, rich, puff paste--you have got two pies, and, as you probably know, -this pastry is simply butter and flour. Place one pie in the oven and bake -it till it is a nice rich brown. Now taste the pie-crust. It is probably -delicious. Now taste the piece of the pie that has not been baked at all. -It is nauseous. The difference is--one is butter and flour that has been -cooked, the other is butter and flour that has not been cooked. - - * * * * * - -One word of warning in conclusion. Cooks should always remember the good -old saying--that it is quite possible to have too much of a good thing. -They should be particularly warned to bear this in mind in adding herbs, -such as ordinary mixed flavouring herbs, or, as they are sometimes called, -savoury herbs, and thyme. This is also very important if wine is added to -soup, though, as a rule, vegetarians rarely use wine in cooking; but the -same principle applies to the substitute for wine--viz., lemon juice. It -is equally important to bear this in mind in using white and brown roux. -If we make the soup too thick we spoil it, and it is necessary to add water -to bring it to its proper consistency, which, of course, diminishes the -flavour. The proper consistency of any soup thickened with roux should be -that of ordinary cream. Beyond this point the cooked flour will overpower -almost every other flavour, and the great beauty of vegetarian cookery is -its simplicity, it appeals to a taste that is refined and natural, and not -to one that has been depraved. - - * * * * * - -STOCK.--Strictly speaking, in vegetarian cookery, stock is the goodness and -flavouring that can be extracted from vegetables, the chief ones being -onion, celery, carrot, and turnip. In order to make stock, take these -vegetables, cut them up into small pieces, after having thoroughly cleansed -them, place them in a saucepan with sufficient water to cover them, and let -them boil gently for several hours. The liquor, when strained off, may be -called stock. It can be flavoured with a small quantity of savoury herbs, -pepper, and salt, as well as a little mushroom ketchup. It can be coloured -with a few drops of Parisian essence, or burnt sugar. Its consistency can -be improved by the addition of a small quantity of corn-flour. Sufficient -corn-flour must be added not to make it thick but like very thin gum. In a -broader sense, the water in which rice, lentils, beans and potatoes have -been boiled may be called stock. Again, the water in which macaroni, -vermicelli, sparghetti, and all kinds of Italian paste has been boiled, may -be called stock. The use of liquors of this kind must be left to the -common sense of the cook, as, of course, it would only be obtainable when -these materials are required for use. - - -BROWN AND WHITE THICKENING, OR ROUX.--It is of great importance for -vegetarians always to have on hand a fairly good stock of white and brown -roux, as it is a great saving both of time and money. As roux will keep -good for weeks, and even months, there is no fear of waste in making a -quantity at a time. Take a pound of flour, with a spoonful or two over; -see that it is thoroughly dry, and then sift it. Next take a pound of -butter and squeeze it in a cloth so as as much as possible to extract all -the moisture from it. Next take a stew-pan--an enamelled one is best--and -melt the butter till it runs to oil. It will now be found that, although -the bulk of the butter looks like oil, a certain amount of froth will rise -to the top. This must be carefully skimmed off. Continue to expose the -butter to a gentle heat till the scum ceases to rise. Now pour off the -oiled butter very gently into a basin till you come to some dregs. These -should be thrown away, or, at any rate, not used in making the roux. Now -mix the pound of dried and sifted flour with the oiled butter, which is -what the French cooks call clarified butter. Place it back in the -stew-pan, put the stew-pan over a tolerably good fire, but not too fierce, -as there is a danger of its burning. With a wooden spoon keep stirring -this mixture, and keep scraping the bottom of the stew-pan, first in one -place and then in another, being specially careful of the edges, to prevent -its burning. Gradually the mixture will begin to turn colour. As soon as -this turn of colour is perceptible take out half and put it in a basin. -This is the white roux, viz., flour cooked in butter but not discoloured -beyond a very trifling amount. Keep the stew-pan on the fire, and go on -stirring the remainder, which will get gradually darker and darker in -colour. As soon as the colour is that of light chocolate remove the -stew-pan from the fire altogether, but still continue scraping and stirring -for a few minutes longer, as the enamel retains the heat to such an extent -that it will sometimes burn after it has been removed from the fire. It is -important not to have the mixture too dark, and it will be found by -experience that it gets darker after the stew-pan has been removed from the -fire. When we say light chocolate we refer to the colour of a cake of -chocolate that has been broken. The inside is the colour, not the outside. -It is advisable sometimes to have by you ready a large slice of onion, and -if you think it is dark enough you can throw this in and immediately by -this means slacken the heat. Pour the brown roux into a separate basin, -and put them by for use. - -In the houses of most vegetarians more white roux will be used than brown, -consequently more than half should be removed if this is the case when the -roux first commences to turn colour. When the brown roux gets cold it has -all the appearance of chocolate, and when you use it it is best to scrape -off the quantity you require with a spoon, and not add it to soups or -sauces in one lump. - - -ALMOND SOUP.--Take half a pound of sweet almonds and blanch them, _i.e._, -throw them into boiling water till the outside skin can be rubbed off -easily with the finger. Then immediately throw the white almonds into cold -water, otherwise they will quickly lose their white colour like potatoes -that have been peeled. Next, slice up an onion and half a small head of -celery, and let these simmer gently in a quart of milk. In the meantime -pound the almonds with four hard-boiled yolks of egg, strain off the milk -and add the pounded almonds and egg to the milk gradually, and let it boil -over the fire. Add sufficient white roux till the soup becomes of the -consistency of cream. Serve some fried or toasted bread with the soup. It -is a great improvement to add half a pint of cream, but this makes the soup -much more expensive. The soup can be flavoured with a little white pepper. - -N.B.--The onion and celery that was strained off can be used again for -flavouring purposes. - - -APPLE SOUP.--This is a German recipe. Take half a dozen good-sized apples, -peel them and remove the core, and boil them in a quart of water with two -tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs; add the juice of a lemon, and flavour it -with rather less than a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon; sweeten -the soup with lump sugar, previously having rubbed six lumps on the outside -of the lemon. - - -ARTICHOKE SOUP.--Take a dozen large Jerusalem artichokes about as big as -the fist, or more to make up a similar quantity. Peel them, and, like -potatoes, throw them into cold water in order to prevent them turning -colour. Boil them in as little water as possible, as they contain a good -deal of water themselves, till they are tender and become a pulp, taking -care that they do not burn, and therefore it is best to rub the saucepan at -the bottom with a piece of butter. Now rub them through a wire sieve and -add them to a pint of milk in which a couple of bay-leaves have been -boiled. Add also two lumps of sugar and a little white pepper and salt. -Serve the soup with fried or toasted bread. This soup can be made much -richer by the addition of either a quarter of a pint of cream or a couple -of yolks of eggs. If yolks of eggs are added, beat up the yolks separately -and add the soup gradually, very hot, but not quite boiling, otherwise the -yolks will curdle. - - -ASPARAGUS SOUP.--Take a good-sized bundle (about fifty large heads) of -asparagus, and after a thorough cleansing throw them into a saucepan of -boiling water that has been salted. When the tops become tender, drain off -the asparagus and throw it into cold water, as by this means we retain the -bright green colour; when cold cut off all the best part of the green into -little pieces, about half an inch long, then put the remainder of the -asparagus--the stalk part--into a saucepan, with a few green onions and a -few sprigs of parsley, with about a quart of stock or water; add a -teaspoonful of pounded sugar and a very little grated nutmeg. Let this -boil till the stalks become quite tender, then rub the whole through a wire -sieve and thicken the soup with a little white roux, and colour it a bright -green with some spinach extract. Now add the little pieces cut up, and let -the whole simmer gently, and serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. - - -N.B.--SPINACH EXTRACT.--It is very important in making all green vegetable -soups that they should be of a green colour, such as the one above -mentioned--green-pea soup, &c., and that we get a _good_ colour, and this -is only to be obtained by means of spinach extract. Spinach extract can be -made at home, but it will be found to be far more economical to have a -small bottle of green vegetable colouring always in the house. These -bottles can be obtained from all grocers at the cost of about tenpence or -one shilling each. Such a very small quantity goes such a long way that -one bottle would probably last a family of six persons twelve months. As -we have said, it can be made at home, but the process, though not -difficult, is troublesome. It is made as follows:--A quantity of spinach -has, after being thoroughly washed, to be pounded in a mortar until it -becomes a pulp. This pulp is then placed in a very strong, coarse cloth, -and the cloth is twisted till the juice of the spinach is squeezed out -through the cloth. The amount of force required is very considerable and -is almost beyond the power of ordinary women cooks. This juice must now be -placed in a small enamelled saucepan, and must be heated till it becomes -thick and pulpy, when it can be put by for use. It will probably be found -cheaper to buy spinach extract than to make it, as manual labour cannot -compete with machinery. - - -BARLEY SOUP.--Take two tablespoonfuls of pearl barley and wash it in -several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Put this in a -saucepan with about two quarts of water, two onions sliced up, a few -potatoes sliced very thin, and about a saltspoonful of thyme. Let the -whole boil gently for four or five hours, till the barley is quite soft and -eatable. Thicken the soup very slightly with a little white roux, season -it with pepper and salt. Before serving the soup, add a tablespoonful of -chopped blanched parsley. - -N.B.--When chopped parsley is added to any soup or sauce, such as parsley -and butter, it is very important that the parsley be blanched. To blanch -parsley means to throw it for a few seconds into boiling water. By this -means a dull green becomes a bright green. The best method to blanch -parsley is to place it in a strainer and dip the strainer for a few seconds -in a saucepan of boiling water. By comparing the colour of the parsley -that has been so treated with some that has not been blanched, cooks will -at once see the importance of the operation so far as appearances are -concerned. - - -BEETROOT SOUP.--This soup is better adapted to the German palate than the -English, as it contains both vinegar and sugar, which are very -characteristic of German cookery. Take two large beetroots and two -good-sized onions, and after peeling the beetroots boil them and mince them -finely, adding them, of course, to the water in which they were boiled, or -still better, they can be boiled in some sort of stock. Add a very small -quantity of corn-flour, to give a slight consistency to the soup, as well -as a little pinch of thyme. Next add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar--more -or less according to taste--a spoonful of brown sugar, and a little pepper -and salt. - - -BEAN SOUP, OR PUREE OF RED HARICOT BEANS.--Put a quart of red haricot beans -into soak overnight, and put a little piece of soda in the water to soften -it. The next morning put the beans on to boil in three quarts of water, -with some carrot, celery and onion, or the beans can be boiled in some -stock made from these vegetables. After the beans are tender, pound them -in a mortar, and then rub the whole through a wire sieve, after first -removing the carrot, celery and onion. Add a teaspoonful of pounded sugar -and about two ounces of butter. Fried or toasted bread should be served -with the soup. If the soup is liked thin, of course more water can be -added. - - -BEAN SOUP, OR PUREE OF WHITE HARICOT BEANS.--Proceed exactly as in the -above recipe, only substituting white haricot beans for red. It is a great -improvement to add a little boiling cream, but of course this makes the -soup much more expensive. Some cooks add a spoonful of blanched, chopped -parsley to this puree, and Frenchmen generally flavour this soup with -garlic. - - -BEAN SOUP, GREEN.--Boil a quart of ordinary broad-beans in some stock or -water with an onion, carrot and celery. Remove the skins when the beans -are tender and rub the beans through a wire sieve. Colour the soup with a -little spinach extract--(vegetable colouring, sold in bottles)--add a -little piece of butter, a little powdered sugar, pepper and salt. The -amount of stock or water must depend upon whether it is wished to have the -puree thick or thin. Some purees are made as thick as bread sauce, while -some persons prefer them much thinner. This is purely a matter of taste. - - -BEAN SOUP FROM FRENCH BEANS.--This is an admirable method of using up -French beans or scarlet runners when they get too old to be boiled as a -vegetable in the ordinary way. Take any quantity of French beans and boil -them in some stock or water with an onion, carrot, or celery for about an -hour, taking care, at starting, to throw them into boiling water in order -to preserve their colour. It is also a saving of trouble to chop the beans -slightly at starting, _i.e._, take a bunch of beans in the left hand and -cut them into pieces, say an eighth of an inch in thickness. Boil them -till they are tender, and then rub the whole through a wire sieve. Add a -little butter, pepper and salt, and colour the soup with spinach -extract--(vegetable colouring, sold in bottles). Serve toasted or fried -bread with the puree, which should be rather thick. - - -CABBAGE SOUP.--Take a white cabbage and slice it up, and throw it into some -stock or water, with some leeks and slices of turnip. Boil the whole till -the vegetables are tender, flavour with pepper and salt. This is sometimes -called Cornish broth, though in Cornwall a piece of meat or bones are -generally boiled with the vegetables. As no meat, of course, is used, too -much water must not be added, but only sufficient liquor must be served to -make the vegetables thoroughly moist. Perhaps the consistency can best be -described by saying that there should be equal quantities of vegetables and -fluid. - - -CARROT SOUP.--If you wish this soup to be of a good colour, you must only -use the outside, or red part, of the carrot, in which case a dozen large -carrots will be required. If economy is practised, half this quantity will -be sufficient. Take, say, half a dozen carrots, a small head of celery, -and one onion, and throw them into boiling water for a few minutes in order -to preserve the colour. Then drain them off and place them in a saucepan, -with a couple of ounces of butter to prevent them sticking and burning, and -place the saucepan on a very slack fire and let them stew so that the steam -can escape, but take care they don't burn or get brown. Now add a quart or -two quarts of stock or water and boil them till they are tender. Then rub -the whole through a wire sieve, add a little butter, pounded sugar, pepper, -and salt. The amount of liquid added must entirely depend upon the size of -the carrots. It is better to add too little than too much, but the -consistency of the soup should be like ordinary pea soup; it does not do to -have the soup watery. If only the outside parts of carrots are used, and -this red part is thrown, at starting, into boiling water to preserve its -colour, this soup, when made thick, has a very bright and handsome -appearance, and is suitable for occasions when a little extra hospitality -is exercised. The inside part of the carrot, if not used for making the -soup, need not be wasted, but can be used for making stock, or served in a -dish of mixed vegetables on some other occasion. - - -CAULIFLOWER SOUP.--Take three or four small cauliflowers, or two large -ones, soak them in salt and water, and boil them in some water till they -are nearly tender. Take them out and break the cauliflower so that you get -two or three dozen little pieces out of the heart of the cauliflower, -somewhat resembling miniature bouquets. Put the rest of the cauliflower -back into the water in which it was boiled, with the exception of the green -part of the leaves, with an onion and some of the white part of a head of -celery. Let all boil till the water has nearly boiled away. Now rub all -this through a wire sieve, onions, celery, cauliflower, and all; add to it -sufficient boiling milk to make the whole of the consistency of pea soup. -Add a little butter, pepper, and salt; throw in those little pieces of -cauliflower that had been reserved a minute or two before serving the soup. -It is an improvement to boil two or three bay-leaves with the milk, and -also a very great improvement indeed to add a little boiling cream. Fried -or toasted bread should be served with the soup. - - -CELERY SOUP.--Take half a dozen heads of celery, or a smaller quantity if -the heads of celery are very large; throw away all the green part and cut -up the celery into small pieces, with one onion sliced, and place them in a -frying-pan, or, better still, in an enamelled stew-pan, and stew them in a -little butter, taking great care that the celery does not turn colour. Now -add sufficient water or stock, and let it all boil till the celery becomes -quite tender. Let it boil till it becomes a pulp, and then rub the whole -through a wire sieve. Next boil separately from one to two quarts of milk -according to the quantity of celery pulp, and boil a couple of bay-leaves -in the milk. As soon as the milk boils add it to the celery pulp, flavour -the soup with pepper and salt; serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. -It is needless to say that all these white soups are greatly improved both -in appearance and flavour by the addition of a little cream. - - -CHEESE SOUP.--Light-coloured and dry cheese is necessary for this somewhat -peculiar soup, but the best cheese of all is, undoubtedly, Gruyere. Grate -half a pound of cheese and spread a layer of this at the bottom of the -soup-tureen. Cover this layer of cheese with some very thin slices of -stale crumb of bread. Then put another layer of cheese and another layer -of bread till all the cheese is used up. Next take about two -tablespoonfuls of brown roux, melt this in a small saucepan, and add two -tablespoonfuls of chopped onion. Let the onion cook in the melted roux -over the fire, and then add a quart of water, and stir it all up till it -boils, adding pepper and salt and a few drops of Parisian essence (burnt -sugar) to give it a dark brown colour. Now pour the boiling soup over the -contents of the soup-tureen, and let it stand a few minutes so that the -bread has time to soak, and serve. - - -CHERRY SOUP.--Like most soups that are either sweet or sour, this is a -German recipe. Put a piece of butter, the size of a large egg, into a -saucepan. Let it melt, then mix it with a tablespoonful of flour, and stir -smoothly until it is lightly browned. Add gradually two pints of water, a -pound of black cherries, picked and washed, and a few cloves. Let these -boil until the fruit is quite tender, then press the whole through a sieve. -After straining, add a little port, if wine is allowed--but the soup will -be very nice without this addition--half a teaspoonful of the kernels, -blanched and bruised, a tablespoonful of sugar, and a few whole cherries. -Let the soup boil again until the cherries are tender, and pour all into a -tureen over toasted sippets, sponge-cakes, or macaroons. - - -CHESTNUT SOUP, OR PUREE OF CHESTNUTS.--Take four dozen chestnuts and peel -them. This will be a very long process if we attempt to take off the skins -while they are raw; but in order to save time and trouble, place the -chestnuts in a stew-pan with a couple of ounces of butter. Place them on a -slack fire and occasionally give them a stir. Heat them gradually till the -husks come off without any difficulty. Having removed all the husks, add -sufficient stock or water to the chestnuts, and let them boil gently till -they are tender. Then pound them in a mortar and rub them through a wire -sieve. Add a very little brown roux, if the soup is to be brown, and a few -drops of Parisian essence (burnt sugar), or a little white roux and a -little cream if the soup is to be white. Add also a little pepper and -salt, sufficient butter to make the puree taste soft, and a little powdered -sugar. Fried and toasted bread should be served with the soup. - - -COTTAGE SOUP.--Fry two onions, a carrot and a turnip, and a small head of -celery cut up into small pieces, in a frying-pan, with a little butter, -till they are lightly browned. Then put them in a saucepan, with about two -quarts of water and a tablespoonful of mixed savoury herbs. Let this boil -till the vegetables are quite tender, and then thicken the soup with two -ounces of oatmeal or prepared barley. This must be mixed with cold water -and made quite smooth before it is added to the soup. Wash a quarter of a -pound of rice, and boil this in the soup, and when the rice is quite tender -the soup can be served. Some persons add a little sugar, and dried -powdered mint can be handed round with the soup, like pea soup. - - -CLEAR SOUP.--Make a very strong stock by cutting up onion, celery, carrot, -and a little turnip, and boiling them in some water. They should boil for -two or three hours. Add also a teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs to every -quart, and colour the stock with a few drops of Parisian essence. Strain -it off, and, if it is not bright, clear it with some white of egg in the -ordinary way. Take only sufficient corn-flour to make the soup less thin -or watery, but do not make it thick. A tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup -can be added to every quart. - - -COCOANUT SOUP.--Break open a good-sized cocoanut and grate sufficient of -the white part till it weighs half a pound. Boil this in some stock, and -after it has boiled for about an hour strain it off. Only a small quantity -of stock must be used, and the cocoanut should be pressed and squeezed, so -as to extract all the goodness. Add a little pepper and salt, and about -half a grated nutmeg. Next boil separately three pints of milk, and add -this to the strained soup. Thicken the soup with some ground rice, and -serve. Of course, a little cream would be a great improvement. Serve with -toasted or fried bread. - - -ENDIVE SOUP, OR PUREE.--Take half a dozen endives that are white in the -centre, and wash them very thoroughly in salt and water, as they are apt to -contain insects. Next throw. them into boiling water, and let them boil -for a quarter of an hour. Then take them out and throw them into cold -water. Next take them out of the cold water and squeeze them in a cloth so -as to extract all the moisture. Then cut off the root of each endive, chop -up all the white leaves, and place them in a stew-pan with about two ounces -of butter. Add half a grated nutmeg, a brimming teaspoonful of powdered -white sugar, and a little pepper and salt. Stir them over the fire with a -wooden spoon, and take care they don't burn or turn colour. Next add -sufficient milk to moisten them, and let them simmer gently till they are -tender; then rub the whole through a wire sieve, add a little piece of -butter, and serve with fried or toasted bread. - - -FRUIT SOUP.--Fruit soup can be made from rhubarb, vegetable marrow, -cucumber, gourd, or pumpkin. They may be all mixed with a little cream, -milk, or butter, and form a nice dish that is both healthful and delicate. - - -GREEN PEA SOUP.--(_See_ PEA.) - - -GREEN PEA SOUP, DRIED.--(_See_ PEA.) - - -HARE SOUP (IMITATION).--Take one large carrot, a small head of celery, one -good-sized onion, and half a small turnip, and boil these in a quart of -water till they are tender. Rub the whole through a wire sieve, and -thicken the soup with some brown roux till it is as thick as good cream. -Next add a brimming saltspoonful of aromatic flavouring herbs. These herbs -are sold in bottles by all grocers under the name of Herbaceous Mixture. -Flavour the soup with cayenne pepper, a glass of port wine (port wine dregs -will do), dissolve in it a small dessertspoonful of red-currant jelly, and -add the juice of half a lemon. - -N.B.--Aromatic flavouring herbs are exceedingly useful in cooking. It is -cheaper to buy them ready made, under the name of Herbaceous Mixture. They -can, however, be made at home as follows:--Take two ounces of white -peppercorns, two ounces of cloves, one ounce of marjoram, one ounce of -sweet basil and one ounce of lemon-thyme, one ounce of powdered nutmeg, one -ounce of powdered mace, and half an ounce of dried bay-leaves. The herbs -must be wrapped up in paper (one or two little paper bags, one inside the -other, is best), and dried very slowly in the oven till they are brittle. -They must then be pounded in a mortar, and mixed with the spices, and the -whole sifted through a fine hair-sieve and put by in a stoppered bottle for -use. - - -HOTCH-POTCH.--Cut up some celery, onion, carrot, turnip, and leeks into -small pieces and fry them for a few minutes in about two ounces of butter -in a frying-pan, very gently, taking care that they do not in the least -degree turn colour. Previous to this, wash and boil about a quarter of a -pound of pearl barley for four or five hours. When the barley is tender, -or nearly tender, add the contents of the frying-pan. Let it all boil till -the vegetables are tender, and about half an hour before the soup is sent -to table throw in, while the soup is boiling, half a pint of fresh green -peas--those known as marrowfats are best,--and about five minutes before -sending the soup to table throw in a spoonful (in the proportion of a -dessertspoonful to every quart) of chopped, blanched parsley--_i.e._, -parsley that has been thrown into boiling water before it is chopped. -Colour the soup green with a little spinach extract (vegetable colouring -sold in bottles by all grocers). The thinness of the soup can be removed -by the addition of a small quantity of white roux. - - -JARDINIERE SOUP.--Cut up into thin strips some carrot, turnip and celery, -add a dozen or more small button onions, similar to those used for -pickling, and also a few hearts of lettuces cut up fine, as well as a few -fresh tarragon leaves cut into strips as thin as small string. Simmer -these gently in some clear soup (_see_ CLEAR SOUP) till tender; add a lump -of sugar, and serve. - -N.B.--The tarragon should not be thrown in till the last minute. - - -JULIENNE SOUP.--This soup is exactly similar to the previous one, the only -exception being that all the vegetables are first stewed very gently, till -they are tender, in a little butter. Care should be taken that the -vegetables do not turn colour. - - -LEEK SOUP.--Take half a dozen or more fine large leeks, and after trimming -off the green part, throw them into boiling water for five minutes, then -drain them off and dry them. Cut them into pieces about half an inch long, -and stew them gently in a little butter till they are tender. Add three -pints of milk, and let two bay-leaves boil in the milk, flavour with pepper -and salt, and add a suspicion of grated nutmeg. Thicken the soup with a -little white roux and take the crust of a French roll. Cut this up into -small pieces or rings. The rings can be made by simply scooping out the -crumb, and cutting the roll across. When the leeks have boiled in the milk -till they are quite tender, pour the soup over the crusts placed at the -bottom of the soup-tureen. Some cooks add blanched parsley. Of course, -cream would be a great improvement. - - -LENTIL SOUP.--Take a breakfastcupful of green lentils and put them to soak -in cold water overnight. In the morning throw away any floating on the -top. Drain the lentils and put them in a stew-pan or saucepan with some -stock or water, and add two onions, two carrots, a turnip, a bunch of -parsley, a small teaspoonful of savoury herbs and a small head of celery. -If you have no celery add half a teaspoonful of bruised celery seed. You -can also add a crust of stale bread. Let the whole boil, and it will be -found that occasionally a dark film will rise to the surface. This must be -skimmed off. The soup must boil for about four hours, or at any rate till -the lentils are thoroughly soft. Then strain the soup through a wire -sieve, and rub the whole of the contents through the wire sieve with the -soup. This requires both time and patience. After the whole has been -rubbed through the sieve the soup must be boiled up, and if made from green -lentils it can be coloured green with some spinach extract--(vegetable -colouring, sold in bottles). If made from Egyptian (red) lentils, the soup -can be coloured with a few drops of Parisian essence (burnt sugar). In -warming up this soup, after the lentils have been rubbed through a sieve, -it should be borne in mind that the lentil powder has a tendency to settle, -and consequently the saucepan must be constantly stirred to prevent it -burning. In serving the soup at table, the contents of the soup-tureen -should be stirred with the soup-ladle before each help. - - -LENTIL PUREE A LA SOUBISE.--This is really lentil soup, made as above, -rather thick, to which has been added a puree of onions, made as -follows:--Slice up, say four large onions, and fry them brown in a little -butter, then boil them in some of the broth of the soup till they are -tender. Rub them through a wire sieve and add them to the soup. - - -MACARONI SOUP (CLEAR).--Take some macaroni and break it up into pieces -about two inches long. Boil them till they are tender in some salted -water, drain them off and add them to some clear soup. (_See_ CLEAR SOUP.) - - -MACARONI SOUP (THICK).--Take an onion, carrot, a small head of celery and a -very small quantity of turnip; cut them up and boil them in a very small -quantity of water for about an hour. Then rub the whole through a wire -sieve, add a quart or more of boiling milk, throw in the macaroni, after -breaking it up into pieces two inches long, and let the macaroni simmer in -this till it is perfectly tender. The soup should be thickened with a very -little white roux, a bay-leaf can be boiled in the soup; a small quantity -of cream is a great improvement. Fried or toasted bread should be served -with it. - - -MILK SOUP.--Milk soup, as it is sometimes called in Germany, very much -resembles English custard. It is made by putting a quart of milk on the -fire and thickening it with two yolks of eggs and a little flour, and -sweetening it with sugar. The soup is flavoured with either vanilla, -lemon, laurel leaves, pounded almonds, cinnamon, chocolate, &c. As a soup, -however, it is not suited to the English palate. - - -MOCK TURTLE, IMITATION.--Take an onion, carrot, small head of celery, and -some turnip, and boil them till they are tender in some stock. The water -in which some rice has been boiled is very well suited for the purpose. -Add also to every quart a brimming tablespoonful of mixed savoury herbs. -Rub the whole through a wire sieve, thicken it with brown roux till it is -as thick as cream; add a few drops of Parisian essence--(sold in bottles by -all grocers)--to give it a dark colour. Add a wineglassful of sherry or -Madeira, or, if the use of wine be objected to, the juice of a hard lemon. -Flavour the soup with a little cayenne pepper, and serve some egg forcemeat -balls in it, about the size of small marbles. - - -MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.--Take four large onions, cut them up and fry them brown, -with a little butter, in a frying-pan, with a carrot cut up into small -pieces; add to this a quart of stock or water, and boil till the vegetables -and onions are tender; then rub the whole through a wire sieve and add a -brimming teaspoonful of Captain White's Curry Paste and a dessertspoonful -of curry powder, previously mixed smooth in a little cold water; thicken -the soup with a little brown roux. Some persons would consider this soup -too hot; if so, less curry powder can be used or more water added. If you -have no curry paste, cut up a sour apple and add it to the vegetables in -the frying-pan. If you have no sour apples, a few green gooseberries are a -very good substitute. Boiled rice should be served on a separate dish with -this soup, and should not be boiled in the soup at starting. - - -ONION SOUP.--Cut up half a dozen onions and throw them for a few minutes -into boiling water. This takes off the rankness. Drain off the onions, -and chop them up and boil them till they are tender in some milk that has -been seasoned with pepper and salt and a pinch of savoury herbs. Take a -small quantity of celery, carrot and turnip, or carrot and turnip and a -little bruised celery seed, and boil till they are tender in a very little -water; rub through a wire sieve, and add the pulp to the soup. The soup -can be thickened with white roux, ground rice, or one or two eggs beaten -up. The soup must be added to the eggs gradually or they will curdle. - - -ONION SOUP, BROWN.--Take an onion, carrot, celery, and turnip, and let them -boil till quite tender in some water or stock. In the meantime slice up -half a dozen large onions and fry them brown in a little butter, in a -frying-pan, taking care that the onions are browned and not burnt black; -add the contents of the frying-pan to the vegetables and stock, and after -it has boiled some time, till the onions are tender, rub the whole through -a wire sieve, thicken with a little brown roux, adding, of course, pepper -and salt to taste. - - -OX-TAIL SOUP, IMITATION.--Slice off the outside red part of two or three -large carrots, and cut them up into small dice not bigger than a quarter of -an inch square. Cut up also into similar size a young turnip, and the -white, hard part of a head of celery. Fry these very gently in a little -butter, taking care that the vegetables do not turn colour. Make some soup -exactly in every respect similar to that described in Imitation Mock -Turtle. Throw in these fried vegetables, and let the soup simmer gently by -the side of the fire, in order for it to throw up its butter, which should -be skimmed off. In flavouring the soup, add only half the quantity of wine -or lemon juice that you would use were you making Mock Turtle. - - -PALESTINE SOUP.--(_See_ ARTICHOKE SOUP.) - - -PARSNIP SOUP.--Prepare half a dozen parsnips, and boil them with an onion -and half a head of celery in some stock till they are quite tender. Then -rub the whole through a wire sieve, boil it up again, and serve. -Sufficient parsnips must be boiled to make the soup as thick as pea soup, -so the quantity of stock must be regulated accordingly. This soup is -generally rather sweet, owing to the parsnips, and an extra quantity of -salt must be added in consequence, as well as pepper. In Belgium and -Germany this sweetness is corrected by the addition of vinegar. This, of -course, is a matter of taste. - - -PEAR SOUP.--Pare, core, and slice six or eight large pears. Put them into -a stew-pan with a penny roll cut into thin slices, half a dozen cloves, and -three pints of water. Let them simmer until they are quite tender, then -pass them through a coarse sieve, and return the puree to the saucepan, -with two ounces of sugar, the strained juice of a fresh lemon, and half a -tumblerful of light wine. Let the soup boil five or ten minutes, when it -will be ready for serving. Send some sponge-cake to table with this dish. - - -PEA SOUP, FROM SPLIT DRIED PEAS.--Take a pint of split peas and put them in -soak overnight in some cold water, and throw away those that float, as this -shows that there is a hole in them which would be mildewy. Take two -onions, a carrot, a small head of celery, and boil them with the peas in -from three pints to two quarts of water till they are tender. This will be -from four to five hours. When the peas are old and stale even longer time -should be allowed. Then rub the whole through a wire sieve, put the soup -back into the saucepan, and stir it while you make it hot or it will burn. -In ordinary cookery, pea soup is invariably made from some kind of greasy -stock, more especially the water in which pickled pork has been boiled. In -the present instance we have no kind of fat to counteract the natural -dryness of the pea-flour. We must therefore add, before sending to table, -two or three ounces of butter. It will be found best to dissolve the -butter in the saucepan before adding the soup to be warmed up, as it is -then much less likely to stick to the bottom of the saucepan and burn. -Fried or toasted bread should be served with the soup separately, as well -as dried and powdered mint. The general mistake people make is, they do -not have sufficient mint. - - -PEA SOUP, FROM DRIED GREEN PEAS.--Proceed as in the above recipe in every -respect, substituting dried green peas for ordinary yellow split peas. -Colour the soup green by adding a large handful of spinach before it is -rubbed through the wire sieve, or add a small quantity of spinach extract -(vegetable colouring sold by grocers in bottles); dried mint and fried or -toasted bread should be served with the soup, as with the other. - - -PEA SOUP, GREEN (FRESH).--Take half a peck of young peas, shell them, and -throw the peas into cold water. Put all the shells into a quart or more of -stock or water. Put in also a handful of spinach if possible, a few sprigs -of parsley, a dozen fresh mint-leaves and half a dozen small, fresh, green -onions. Boil these for an hour, or rather more, and then rub the whole -through a wire sieve. You cannot rub all the shells through; but you will -be able to rub a great part through, that which is left in the sieve being -only strings. Now put on the soup to boil again, and as soon as it boils -throw in the peas; as soon as these are tender--about twenty minutes--the -soup is finished and can be sent to table. If the soup is thin, a little -white roux can be added to thicken it; if of a bad colour, or if you could -not get any spinach, add some spinach extract (vegetable colouring, sold by -all grocers), only take care not to add too much, and make the soup look -like green paint. - -POTATO SOUP.--Potato soup is a very good method of using up the remains of -cold boiled potatoes. Slice up a large onion and fry it, without letting -it turn colour, with a little butter. Add a little water or stock to the -frying-pan, and let the onion boil till it is tender. Boil a quart or more -of milk separately with a couple of bay-leaves; rub the onion with the cold -potatoes through a wire sieve and add it to the milk. You can moisten the -potatoes in the sieve with the milk. When you have rubbed enough to make -the soup thick enough, let it boil up and add to every quart a saltspoonful -of thyme and a brimming teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley. This soup -should be rather thicker than most thick soups. - -When new potatoes first come into season, and especially when you have new -potatoes from your own garden, it will often be found that mixed with the -ordinary ones there are many potatoes no bigger than a toy marble, and -which are too small to be boiled and sent to table as an ordinary dish of -new potatoes. Reserve all these little dwarf potatoes, wash them, and -throw them for five or ten minutes into boiling water, drain them off and -throw them into the potato soup whole. Of course they must boil in the -soup till they are tender. A little cream is a great improvement to the -soup, and dried mint can be served with it, but is not absolutely -necessary. - - -PUMPKIN SOUP.--Take half or a quarter of a moderate-sized pumpkin, pare it, -remove the seeds, and cut the pumpkin into thin slices. Put these into a -stew-pan, with as much water or milk as will cover them, and boil gently -until they are reduced to a pulp. Rub this through a fine sieve, mix with -it a little salt, and a piece of butter the size of an egg, and stir it -over the fire until it boils. Thin it with some boiling milk which has -been sweetened and flavoured with lemon-rind, cinnamon, or orange-flower -water. It should be of the consistency of thick cream. Put toasted bread, -cut into the size of dice, at the bottom of the soup-tureen. Moisten the -bread-dice with a small quantity of the liquor, let them soak a little -while, then pour the rest of the soup over them, and serve very hot. Or -whisk two fresh eggs thoroughly in the tureen, and pour the soup in over -them at the last moment. The liquor ought to have ceased from boiling for -a minute or two before it is poured over the eggs. - - -RHUBARB SOUP.--This is a sweet soup, and is simply juice from stewed -rhubarb sweetened and flavoured with lemon-peel and added either to cream -or beaten-up yolks of eggs and a little white wine. It is rarely met with -in this country. - - -RICE SOUP.--Take a quarter of a pound of rice, and wash it in several -waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Take an onion, the white -part of a head of celery, and a turnip, and cut them up and fry them in a -little butter. Add a quart of stock, or water, and boil these vegetables -until they are tender, and then rub them through a wire sieve. Boil the -rice in this soup till it is tender, flavour with pepper and salt, add a -little milk boiled separately, and serve grated Parmesan cheese with the -soup. - - -RICE SOUP A LA ROYALE.--Take half a pound of rice and wash it thoroughly in -several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Boil this rice in -some stock that has been strongly flavoured with onion, carrot and celery, -and strained off. When the rice is tender rub it through a wire sieve, -then add some boiling milk, in which two or three bay-leaves have been -boiled, and half a pint of cream, till the soup is a proper consistency. -Serve some egg force-meat balls with the soup. - - -SORREL SOUP.--Take some sorrel and wash it very thoroughly. Like spinach, -it requires a great deal of cleansing. Drain it off and place the sorrel -in a stew-pan, and keep stirring it with a wooden spoon. When it has -dissolved and boiled for two or three minutes, let it drain on a sieve till -the water has run off. Next cut up a large onion and fry it in a little -butter, but do not brown the onion. Add a tablespoonful of flour to every -two ounces of butter used, also a teaspoonful of sugar, a little grated -nutmeg, also a little pepper and salt; add the sorrel to this, with a small -quantity of stock or water, then rub the whole through a wire sieve, and -serve. In some parts of the Continent vinegar is added, but it is not -adapted to English taste. - - -SAGO SOUP.--Take two ounces of sage, and having washed it very thoroughly, -put it on to boil in a quart of stock strongly flavoured with onion, -celery, and carrot, but which has been strained off. The sage must boil -until it becomes quite transparent and tender. Flavour the soup with a -little pepper and salt, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, about half a -teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice from a hard -lemon. - - -SEA-KALE SOUP.--This makes a very delicious soup, but it is somewhat rare. -Take a bundle of sea-kale, the whiter the better. Threw it into boiling -water, and let it boil for a few minutes, then take it out and drain it; -cut it up into small pieces and place it in a stew-pan with about two -ounces of butter, add a little pepper and salt and grated nutmeg; stir it -up until the butter is thoroughly melted, but do not let it turn colour in -the slightest degree. Add some milk, and let it simmer very gently for -about half an hour. Rub the whole through a wire sieve, and add a small -quantity of cream. Serve with toasted or fried bread. - - -SCOTCH BROTH.--Take two or three ounces of pearl barley, wash it, and threw -it into boiling water, and let it boil for five or ten minutes. Then drain -it off and threw away the water. This is the only way to get pearl barley -perfectly clean. Then put on the barley in some stock or water, and let it -boil for four hours, till it is tender. Then add to it every kind of -vegetable that is in season, such as onion, celery, carrot, turnip, peas, -French beans, cut up into small pieces, hearts of lettuces cut up. Flavour -with pepper and salt and serve altogether. If possible add leeks to this -soup instead of onion, and just before serving the soup throw in a brimming -dessertspoonful of chopped blanched parsley to every quart of soup. A -pinch of thyme can also be added. - - -SPINACH SOUP.--Wash some young, freshly gathered spinach, cut it up with a -lettuce, and, if possible, a few leaves of sorrel, and throw them into -boiling water. Let them boil for five minutes, drain them off, and throw -them into cold water in order to keep their colour. Next take them out of -the water and squeeze all the moisture from them; then melt two ounces of -butter in a stew-pan, and add two tablespoonfuls of flour. When this is -thoroughly mixed together, and begins to frizzle, add the spinach, lettuce, -&c., and stir them round and round in the stew-pan till all is well mixed -together. Then add sufficient water or vegetable stock to moisten the -vegetables (add also a pinch of thyme), and let it boil. When it has -boiled for about twenty minutes add a quart of milk that has been boiled -separately, flavour with pepper and salt, and serve. - - -TAPIOCA SOUP.--Clear tapioca soup is made by thickening some ordinary clear -soup (_see_ CLEAR SOUP) with tapioca, allowing about two ounces of tapioca -to every quart. The tapioca should be put into the soup when it is cold, -and it is then far less likely to get lumpy. Tapioca can also be boiled in -a little strongly flavoured stock that has not been coloured, and then add -some boiling milk. Tapioca should be allowed to simmer for an hour and a -half. Of course, a little cream is a great improvement when the soup is -made with milk. - - -TOMATO SOUP.--This is a very delicate soup, and the endeavour should be to -try and retain the flavour of the tomato. Slice up an onion, or better -still two shallots, and fry them in a little butter, to which can be added -a broken-up, dried bay-leaf, a saltspoonful of thyme, and a very small -quantity of grated nutmeg, Fry these in a little batter till the onion -begins to turn colour, and then add a dozen ripe tomatoes from which the -pips have been squeezed. Moisten with a very little stock or water, and -let them stew till they are tender, then rub the whole through a wire -sieve. The consistency should be that of pea soup. Add a little butter to -soften the soup), and flavour with pepper and salt. - - -TURNIP SOUP.--Cut up some young turnips into small pieces, throw them into -boiling water, let them boil for a few minutes, take them out and strain -them, and put them into a stew-pan with about two ounces of fresh butter; -add a little salt and sugar. Let them stew in the butter (taking great -care that they don't turn colour) till they become soft, then add -sufficient boiling milk to moisten them, so that when rubbed through a wire -sieve the soup will be of the consistency of pea soup. Serve fried or -toasted bread with the soup. - - -VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP.--Take a large vegetable marrow, peel it, cut it -open, remove all the pips, and place it in a stew-pan with about two ounces -of fresh butter. Add a brimming teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a little -grated nutmeg, and pepper and salt. Keep turning the pieces of vegetable -marrow over in the butter, taking care that they do not at all turn colour. -After frying these pieces gently for five or ten minutes, add some boiling -milk, and let the whole simmer gently till it can be rubbed through a wire -sieve. Care must be taken not to get this soup too thin, as the vegetable -marrow itself contains a large quantity of water. Season with pepper and -salt, and serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. - - -VEGETABLE SOUP.--(_See_ JARDINIERE SOUP.) - - -VERMICELLI SOUP.--Take a quarter of a pound of vermicelli and break it up -into small pieces, throw it into boiling water, and let it boil for five -minutes to get rid of the dirt and floury taste, then throw it immediately -into about a quart of clear soup. The vermicelli must be taken from the -boiling water and thrown into the boiling soup at once. If you were to -boil the vermicelli, strain it off, and put it by to add to the soup, you -would find it would stick together in one lump and be spoilt. - - -VERMICELLI SOUP, WHITE.--The vermicelli must be thrown into white soup -instead of clear soup. (_See_ WHITE SOUP.) - - -WHITE SOUP.--Just as in ordinary white soup the secret of success is to -have some strongly reduced stock, so in vegetarian white soup it is -essential that we should have a small quantity of liquid strongly -impregnated with the flavour of vegetables. For this purpose, place an -onion, the white part of a head of celery, and a slice of turnip in a -stew-pan with a little butter, and fry them till they are tender without -becoming brown. Now add sufficient water to enable you to boil them, and -let the water boil away till very little is left. Now rub this through a -wire sieve and add it to a quart of milk in which a couple of bay-leaves -have been boiled. Thicken the soup with a little white roux, add a -suspicion of nutmeg, and also, if possible, a little cream. Flavour with -pepper and salt. Serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -SAUCES. - - -SAUCE ALLEMANDE.--Take a pint of butter sauce--(_see_ BUTTER SAUCE)--and -add to it four yolks of eggs. In order to do this you must beat up the -yolks separately in a basin and add the hot butter sauce gradually, -otherwise the yolks of eggs will curdle and the sauce will be spoilt. In -fact, it must be treated exactly like custard, and in warming up the sauce -it is often a good plan, if you have no _bain-marie_, to put the sauce in a -jug and place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water. The sauce should be -flavoured with a little essence of mushroom if possible. Essence of -mushroom can be made from the trimmings of mushrooms, but mushroom ketchup -must not be used on account of the colour. Essence of mushroom can be made -by placing the trimmings of mushrooms in a saucepan, stewing them gently, -and extracting the flavour. The large black mushrooms, however, are not -suited. In addition to this essence of mushroom, a little lemon -juice--allowing the juice of half a lemon to every pint, should be added to -the sauce, as well as a slight suspicion of nutmeg, a pint of sauce -requiring about a dozen grates of a nutmeg. A little cream is a great -improvement to this sauce, but is not absolutely necessary. The sauce -should be perfectly smooth. Should it therefore contain any lumps, which -is not unfrequently the case in butter sauce, pass the sauce through a -sieve with a wooden spoon and then put it by in a _bain-marie_, or warm it -up in a jug as directed. - - -ALMOND SAUCE.--This is suitable for puddings. The simplest way of making -it is to make, say half a pint of butter sauce, or, cheaper, thicken half a -pint of milk with a little corn-flour, sweeten it with white sugar, and -then add a few drops of essence of almonds. About a dozen drops will be -sufficient if the essence is strong, but essence of almonds varies greatly -in strength. The sauce can be coloured pink with a few drops of cochineal. - - -ALMOND SAUCE (CLEAR).--Thicken half a pint of water with a little -corn-flour, sweeten it with white sugar, add a dozen drops of essence of -almonds and a few drops of cochineal to colour it pink. The sauce is very -suitable to pour over custard puddings made in a basin or cup and turned -out on to a dish. It is also very cheap. - - -APPLE SAUCE.--Peel say a dozen apples; cut them into quarters; and be very -careful in removing all the core, as many a child is choked through -carelessness in this respect. Stew the apples in a little water till they -become a pulp, placing with them half a dozen cloves and half a dozen -strips of the yellow part only of the outside of the rind of a _fresh_ -lemon of the size and thickness of the thumb-nail; sweeten with brown -sugar, that known as Porto Rico being the most economical. Add a small -piece of butter before serving. - - -ARROWROOT SAUCE.--Thicken half a pint of water with about a dessertspoonful -of arrowroot and sweeten it with white sugar. The sauce can be flavoured -by rubbing a few lumps of sugar on the outside of a lemon, or with a few -drops of essence of vanilla, or with the addition of a little sherry or -spirit, the best spirit being rum. This sauce can, of course, be coloured -pink with cochineal. - - -ARTICHOKE SAUCE.--Proceed exactly as if you were making artichoke soup, -only make the puree thicker by using less liquid. A simple artichoke sauce -can be made by boiling down a few Jerusalem artichokes to a pulp, rubbing -them through a wire sieve, and flavouring with pepper and salt. - - -ASPARAGUS SAUCE.--Boil a bundle of asparagus and rub all the green, tender -part through a wire sieve, till it is a thick pulp, flavour with a little -pepper and salt, add a small piece of butter, and a little spinach extract -(vegetable colouring sold in bottles) in order to give it a good colour. - - -BREAD SAUCE.--Take some dry crumb of bread, and rub through a wire sieve. -The simplest plan is to turn the wire sieve upside down on a large sheet of -paper. The bread must be stale, and stale pieces can be put by for this -purpose. Next take, say, a pint of milk, and let it boil; then throw in -the bread-crumbs and let them _boil_ in the milk. This is the secret of -good bread sauce. Add a dozen peppercorns, and place a whole onion in the -saucepan containing the bread and milk, and place the saucepan beside the -fire in order to allow the bread-crumbs to swell. It will be found that -though at starting the bread sauce was quite thin and milky, yet after a -time it becomes thick. Take out the onion, add a little piece of butter, -stir it up, and serve. A little cream is a great improvement, but is not -absolutely necessary. This sauce, though very simple, requires care: Many -persons will probably recollect having met with bread sauce which in -appearance resembled a poultice too much to be agreeable either to the -palate or the eye. - - -BUTTER SAUCE.--This is the most important of all the sauces with which we -have to deal. The great mistake made by the vast majority of women cooks -is that they will use milk. They thicken a pint of milk with a little -butter and flour, and then call it melted butter, and, as a rule, send to -table enough for twenty persons when only two or three are dining. As -butter sauce will be served with the majority of vegetables, we would call -the attention of vegetarians to the fact that, as a rule, ordinary -cookery-books take for granted that vegetables will be served with the -meat. When therefore vegetables are served separately, and are intended to -be eaten with bread as a course by themselves, some alteration must be made -in the method of serving them. Again, vegetarians should bear in mind -that, except in cases where poverty necessitates rigid economy, a certain -amount of butter may be considered almost a necessity, should the meal be -wished to be both wholesome and nourishing. Francatelli, who was -_chef-de-cuisine_ to the Earl of Chesterfield, and was also chief cook to -the Queen and _chef_ at the Reform Club, and afterwards manager of the -Freemasons' Tavern, in writing on this subject observes:--"Butter sauce, -or, as it is more absurdly called, melted butter, is the foundation of the -whole of the following sauces, and requires very great care in its -preparation. Though simple, it is nevertheless a very useful and agreeable -sauce when properly made. So far from this being usually the case, it is -too generally left to assistants to prepare, as an insignificant matter; -the result is therefore seldom satisfactory. When a large quantity of -butter sauce is required, put four ounces of fresh butter into a -middle-sized stew-pan, with some grated nutmeg and minionette pepper; to -these add four ounces of sifted flour, knead the whole well together, and -moisten with a pint of cold spring water; stir the sauce on the fire till -it boils, and after having kept it gently boiling for twenty minutes -(observing that it be not thicker than the consistency of common white -sauce), proceed to mix in one pound and a half of sweet fresh butter, -taking care to stir the sauce quickly the whole time of the operation. -Should it appear to turn oily, add now and then a spoonful of cold spring -water; finish with the juice of half a lemon, and salt to palate; then pass -the sauce through a tammy into a large _bain-marie_ for use." - -We have quoted the recipe of the late M. Francatelli in full, as we believe -it is necessary to refer to some very great authority in order to knock out -the prejudice from the minds of many who think that they not only can -themselves cook, but teach others, but who are bound in the chains of -prejudice and tradition which, too often, in the most simple recipes, lead -them to follow in the footsteps of their grandmothers. - -Real butter sauce can be made as follows, on a small scale:--Take a -claret-glass of water, and about a small teaspoonful of flour mixed with -rather more than the same quantity of butter, and mix this in the water -over the fire till it is of the consistency of very thin gruel. If it is -thicker than this, add a little more water. Now take any quantity of -butter, and gradually dissolve as much as you can in this thin gruel, -adding say half an ounce at a time, till the sauce becomes a rich oily -compound. After a time, if you add too much butter, the sauce will curdle -and turn oily, as described by Francatelli. - -Of course, in everyday life it is not necessary to have the butter sauce so -rich, still it is simply ridiculous to thicken a pint of milk, or a pint of -water, with a little butter and flour, and then call it butter sauce or -melted butter. Suppose we have a large white cabbage, like those met with -in the West of England, and we are going to make a meal off it in -conjunction with plenty of bread. Suppose the cabbage is sufficiently -large for six persons, surely half a pound of butter is not an excessive -quantity to use in making butter sauce for the purpose. Yet prejudice is -such that if we use half a pound of butter for the butter sauce, -housekeepers consider it extravagant. On the other hand, if the butter -were placed on the table, and the six persons helped themselves, and ate -bread and butter with the cabbage and finished the half-pound, it would not -be considered extravagant. Of course, this is simply prejudice. - -A simple way of making melted butter is as follows:--Take half a pint of -cold water, put it in a saucepan, and add sufficient white roux, or butter -and flour mixed, till it is of the consistency of thin gruel. Now -gradually dissolve in this, adding a little piece at a time, as much butter -as you can afford; add a suspicion of nutmeg, a little pepper and salt, and -a few drops of lemon-juice from a fresh lemon, if you have one in use. - - -BUTTER, MELTED, OR OILED BUTTER.--Melted butter, properly speaking, is -rarely met with in this country, but is a common everyday sauce on the -Continent. It is simply what it says. A piece of butter is placed in a -little sauce-boat and placed in the oven till the butter runs to oil, and -then sent to table with all kinds of fish with which in our present work we -have nothing to do; but it is also sent to table with all kinds of -vegetables, such as French artichokes, &c.; sometimes a spoonful of French -capers is added to the oiled butter. - - -BUTTER, BLACK, OR BEURRE NOIR.--Take two ounces of butter, and dissolve it -in a frying-pan, and let it frizzle till the butter turns a brown colour; -then add a tablespoonful of French vinegar, a teaspoonful of chopped -capers, a teaspoonful of Harvey's sauce, and a teaspoonful of mushroom -ketchup. Let it remain on the fire till the acidity of the vinegar is -removed by evaporation. This is a very delicious sauce, and can be served -with Jerusalem artichokes boiled whole, fried eggs, &c. - - -CAPER SAUCE.--Make some butter sauce, and to every half-pint of sauce add a -dessertspoonful of chopped French capers. If the sauce is liked sharp, add -some of the vinegar from the bottle of capers. - - -CARROT SAUCE.--Proceed exactly as in carrot soup, using less liquid. - - -CAULIFLOWER SAUCE.--Proceed exactly as in cauliflower soup, using less -liquid. - - -CELERY SAUCE.--Proceed exactly as in celery soup, only using less liquid. -The thicker this sauce is the better. - - -CHERRY SAUCE.--Take a quarter of a pound of dried cherries, and put them -into a small stew-pan, with a dessertspoonful of black currant jelly, a -small stick of cinnamon, with half a dozen cloves, and add rather less than -half a pint of water, and let the whole simmer gently for about ten -minutes, when you must take out the spices and send the rest to table. - -N.B.--If wine is not objected to in cooking, it is a very good plan to add -claret instead of water. - - -CHESTNUT SAUCE.--Proceed as in making chestnut soup, using as little liquid -as possible, so as to make the sauce thick. - - -CINNAMON SAUCE.--The simplest way of making cinnamon sauce is to sweeten -some butter sauce with some white sugar, and then add a few drops of -essence of cinnamon. The sauce can be coloured pink with a little -cochineal. A little wine is an improvement. The sauce can also be made by -breaking up and boiling a stick of cinnamon in some water, and then using -the water to make some butter sauce. - - -COCOANUT SAUCE.--Grate the white, part of a cocoanut very finely, and boil -it till tender in a very small quantity of water; add about an equal -quantity of white sugar as there was cocoa-nut; mix in either the yolk of -an egg or a tablespoonful of cream. A little lemon juice is an -improvement. - - -CUCUMBER SAUCE.--Take two or three small cucumbers, peel them, slice them, -and place them in a dish with a little salt, which has the effect of -extracting the water. Now drain the pieces off and strain then in a cloth, -to extract as much moisture as possible. Put then in a frying-pan with a -little butter; fry them very gently, till they begin to turn colour, then -nib them through a wire sieve; moisten the pulp with a little butter sauce; -add a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg and vinegar to taste. - - -CURRANT SAUCE (RED).--Put a couple of tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly -into a small stew-pan, with half a dozen cloves, a small stick of cinnamon, -and the rind of an orange. Moisten with a little water, or still better, a -little claret, strain it off, and add the juice of the orange. - - -CURRANT SAUCE (BLACK).--Proceed exactly as in the above recipe, -substituting black currant jelly for red. - - -CURRY SAUCE.--Take six large onions, peel them, cut them up into small -pieces, and fry them in a frying-pan in about two ounces of butter. As -soon as the onions begin to change colour, take a small carrot and cut it -up into little piece; and a sour apple. When the onions, etc., are fried a -nice brown, add about a pint of vegetable stock or water and let the whole -simmer till the vegetables are quite tender, then add a tea-spoonful of -Captain White's curry paste and a dessertspoonful of curry powder; now rub -the whole through a wire sieve, and take care that all the vegetables go -through. It is rather troublesome, but will repay you, as good curry sauce -cannot be made without. The curry sauce should be sufficiently thick owing -to the vegetables being rubbed through the wire sieve. Should therefore -the onions be small, less water or stock had better be added. Curry sauce -could be thickened with a little brown roux, but it takes away from the -flavour of the curry. A few bay-leaves may be added to the sauce and -served up whole in whatever is curried. For instance, if we have a dish of -curried rice, half a dozen or more bay-leaves could be added to the sauce -and served up with the rice. - -There are many varieties of curry. In India fresh mangoes take the part of -our sour apples. Some persons add grated cocoanut to curry, and it is well -worth a trial, although on the P. and O. boats the Indian curry-cook mixes -the curry fresh every day and uses cocoanut oil for the purpose. In some -parts of India it is customary to serve up whole chillies in the curry, but -this would be better adapted to a stomach suffering from the effects of -brandy-pawnee than to the simple taste of the vegetarian. - - -DUTCH SAUCE.--This is very similar to Allemande Sauce. Take half a pint of -good butter sauce, make it thoroughly hot, add two yolks of eggs, taking -care that they do not curdle, a little pepper and salt, a suspicion of -nutmeg, and about a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. Some persons -instead of using tarragon vinegar add a little lemon juice, say the half of -a fresh lemon to this quantity, and half a dozen fresh tarragon leaves, -blanched--that is, dipped for a few seconds in boiling water--and then -chopped very fine. The tarragon vinegar is much the simplest, as it is -very difficult to get fresh tarragon leaves unless one has a good garden or -lives near Covent Garden Market. - - -DUTCH SAUCE (GREEN).--Proceed exactly as above and colour the sauce a -bright green with a little spinach extract (vegetable colouring, sold in -bottles by all grocers). - - -EGG SAUCE.--Take half a dozen eggs, put them in a saucepan with sufficient -cold water to cover them. Put them on the fire and let them boil for ten -minutes after the water boils. Take them out and put them into cold water -and let them stand for ten minutes, when the shells can be removed; then -cut up the six hard-boiled eggs into little pieces, add sufficient butter -sauce to moisten them, make the whole hot, and serve. - -N.B.--Inexperienced cooks often think that hard-boiled eggs are bad when -they are not, owing to their often having a tinge of green colour round the -outside of the yolk and to their emitting a peculiar smell when the shells -are first removed while hot All eggs contain a small quantity of -sulphuretted hydrogen. - - -FENNEL SAUCE.--Blanch and chop up sufficient fennel to colour half a pint -of butter sauce a bright green, add a little pepper, salt, and lemon juice, -and serve. - - -GERMAN SWEET SAUCE.--Take a quarter of a pound of dried cherries, a small -saltspoonful of powdered cinnamon, and a few strips of lemon peel, and put -them in a small saucepan with about a quarter of a pint of water, or still -better, claret, if wine is allowed, and let them simmer on the fire gently -for about half an hour; then rub the cherries through a wire sieve with the -liquor--(of course, the lemon peel and cloves will not rub through)--and -add this to a quarter of a pound of stewed prunes. This is a very popular -sauce abroad. - - -GINGER SAUCE.--The simplest way of making ginger sauce is to sweeten half a -pint of butter sauce and then add a few drops of essence of ginger. A -richer ginger sauce can be made by taking two or three tablespoonfuls of -preserved ginger and two or three tablespoonfuls of the syrup in which they -are preserved, rubbing this through a wire sieve, adding about an equal -quantity of butter sauce, making the whole hot in a saucepan. - - -GOOSEBERRY SAUCE.--Pick and then stew some green gooseberries, just -moistening the stewpan with a little water to prevent them burning. Rub -the whole through a hair sieve in order to avoid having any pips in the -sauce. Sweeten with a little Demerara sugar, as Porto Rico would be too -dark in colour. Colour the sauce a bright green with a little spinach -extract. - -N.B.--It is a mistake to add cream to gooseberry sauce, which is distinct -altogether from gooseberry fool. In Germany, vinegar is added to this -sauce and it is served with meat. - - -HORSE-RADISH SAUCE.--Horse-radish sauce is made, properly speaking, by -mixing grated horse-radish with cream, vinegar, sugar, made mustard, and a -little pepper and salt. A very simple method of making this sauce is to -substitute tinned Swiss milk for the cream and sugar. It is equally nice, -more economical, and possesses this great advantage: a few tins of Swiss -milk can always be kept in the store cupboard, whereas there is -considerable difficulty, especially in all large towns, in obtaining cream -without giving twenty-four hours' notice, and the result even then is not -always satisfactory. Horse-radish sauce is very delicious, and its -thickness should be entirely dependent upon the amount of grated -horse-radish. Sticks of horse-radish vary so very much in size that we -will say, grate sufficient to fill a teacup, throw this into a sauce -tureen, mix a dessertspoonful of Swiss milk with a tablespoonful of vinegar -and about two tablespoonfuls of milk and a teaspoonful of made mustard, add -this to the horse-radish, and, if necessary, sufficient milk to make the -whole of the consistency of bread sauce. As the sauce is very hot, as a -rule it is best not to add any pepper, which can be easily added afterwards -by those who like it. - - -INDIAN PICKLE SAUCE.--Chop up two or three tablespoonfuls of Indian -pickles, place them in a frying-pan with a quarter of a pint of water, and -if the pickles are sour as well as hot, let them simmer some little time so -as to get rid of the vinegar by evaporation. Then thicken the whole with -some brown roux till the sauce is as thick as pea soup. The vinegar should -be got rid of as much as possible. This is a very appetising dish with -boiled rice and Parmesan cheese. - - -ITALIAN SAUCE.--This is an old-fashioned recipe taken from a book written -in French, and published more than fifty years ago. Put into a saucepan a -little parsley, a shallot, some mushrooms and truffles, chopped very -finely, with a piece of butter about the size of a walnut. Let all boil -gently for half an hour, add a spoonful of oil, and serve. - - -MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE.--Maitre d'hotel sauce is simply a lump of butter -mixed with some chopped parsley, a little pepper and salt, and lemon juice. - -Hot sauce is often called Maitre d'hotel when chopped blanched parsley and -lemon juice is added to a little white sauce. - - -MANGO CHUTNEY SAUCE.--Take a couple of tablespoonfuls of Mango Chutney, -moisten it with two or three tablespoonfuls of butter sauce, rub the whole -through a wire sieve, and serve either hot or cold. Or the chutney can be -simply chopped up fine and added to the butter sauce without rubbing -through the wire sieve. - - -MAYONNAISE SAUCE.--This is the most delicious of all cold sauces. It is -composed entirely of raw yolk of egg and oil, flavoured with a dash of -vinegar. When made properly it should be of the consistency of butter in -summer time. Many women cooks labour under the delusion that it requires -the addition of cream. Mayonnaise sauce is made as follows:--Break an egg -and separate the yolk from the white, and place the yolk at the bottom of a -large basin. Next take a bottle of oil, which must be cool but bright; if -the oil is cloudy, as it often is in cold weather, you cannot make the -sauce. Nor can you if the oil has been kept in a warm place. Now proceed -to let the oil drop, drop by drop, on the yolk of egg, and with a silver -fork, or still better, a wooden one, beat the yolk of egg and oil quickly -together. Continue to drop the oil, taking care that only a few drops drop -at a time, especially at starting, and continue to beat the mixture lightly -and quickly. Gradually the yolk of egg and oil will begin to get thick, -first of all like custard. When this is the case a little more oil may be -added at a time, but never more than a teaspoonful. As more oil is added, -and the beating continues, the sauce gets thicker and thicker, till it is -nearly as thick as butter in summer time. When it arrives at this stage no -more oil should be added. A little tarragon vinegar may be added at the -finish, or a little lemon juice. This makes the sauce whiter in colour. -One yolk of egg will take a teacupful of oil. It is best to add pepper and -salt when the salad is mixed. Mayonnaise sauce is by far the best sauce -for lettuce salad. It will keep a day, but should be kept in a cool place, -and the basin should be covered over with a moist cloth. - - -MAYONNAISE SAUCE, GREEN.--Make some mayonnaise sauce as above, and colour -it with some spinach colouring (vegetable colouring, sold in bottles by all -grocers). - - -MINT SAUCE.--Take plenty of fresh mint leaves, as the secret of good mint -sauce is to have plenty of mint. Chop up sufficient mint to fill a teacup, -put this at the bottom of a sauce tureen, pour sufficient boiling water on -the mint to thoroughly moisten it, and add a tablespoonful of brown sugar, -which dissolves best when the water is hot. Press the mint with a -tablespoon to extract the flavour, let it stand till it is quite cold, and -then add three or four tablespoonfuls of malt vinegar, stir it up, and the -sauce is ready. The quantity of vinegar added is purely a matter of taste, -but a teaspoonful of chopped mint floating in half a pint of vinegar is no -more mint sauce than dipping a mutton chop in a quart of boiling water -would be soup in ordinary cookery. - - -MUSHROOM SAUCE, WHITE.--Mushroom sauce can be made from fresh mushrooms or -tinned mushrooms. When made from fresh they must be small button -mushrooms, and not those that are black underneath. They must be peeled, -cut small, and have a little lemon juice squeezed over them to prevent them -turning colour, or they had still better be thrown into lemon juice and -water. They must now be fried in a frying-pan with a small quantity of -butter till they are tender, and then added to a little thickened milk, or -still better, cream. When made from tinned mushrooms, simply chop up the -mushrooms, reserving the liquor, then add a little cream and thicken with a -little white roux. A little pepper and salt should be added in both cases. -Instead of using either milk or cream, you can use a small quantity of -sauce Allemande. - - -MUSHROOM SAUCE, BROWN.--Proceed exactly as above with regard to the -mushrooms, both fresh and tinned, only instead of adding milk, cream, or -Allemande sauce, add a little stock or water, and then thicken the sauce -with a little brown roux. - - -MUSHROOM SAUCE, PUREE.--Mushroom sauce, both white and brown, is sometimes -served as a puree. It is simply either of the above sauces rubbed through -a wire sieve. - - -MUSTARD SAUCE.--Make, say, half a pint of good butter sauce, add to this a -tablespoonful of French mustard and a tablespoonful of made English -mustard. Stir this into the sauce, make it hot, and serve. - -N.B.--French mustard is sold ready-made in jars, and is flavoured with -tarragon, capers, ravigotte, &c. - - -ONION SAUCE.--Take half a dozen large onions, peel them and boil them in a -little salted water till they are tender. Then take them out and chop them -up fine, and put them in a stew-pan with a little milk. Thicken the sauce -with a little butter and flour, or white roux, and season with pepper and -salt. A very nice mild onion sauce is made by using Spanish onions. - - -ONION SAUCE, BROWN.--Slice up half a dozen good-sized onions; put them in a -frying-pan and fry them in a little butter till they begin to get brown, -but be careful not to burn them, and should there be a few black pieces in -the frying-pan, remove them; now chop up the onions, not too finely, and -put them in a saucepan with a very little stock or water, let them simmer -till they are tender, and then thicken the sauce with a little brown roux, -and flavour with pepper and salt. - - -ORANGE CREAM SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.--Take a large ripe orange and rub a dozen -lumps of sugar on the outside of the rind and dissolve these in a small -quantity of butter sauce, and add the juice of the orange, strained. Now -add a little cream, or half a pint of milk that has been boiled separately, -in which case the sauce will want thickening with a little white roux. -Rubbing the sugar on the outside of the rind of the orange gives a very -strong orange flavour indeed--far more than the juice of almost any number -of oranges would produce, so care must be taken not to overdo it. This is -what French cooks call zest of orange. - - -PARSLEY SAUCE.--Blanch and chop up sufficient parsley to make a brimming -tablespoonful when chopped. Add this to half a pint of butter sauce, with -a little pepper, salt, and lemon juice. It is very important to blanch the -parsley, _i.e._, throw it into a little boiling water before chopping. - - -PINE-APPLE SAUCE.--Take a pine-apple, peel it, cut it up into little pieces -on a dish, taking care not to lose any of the juice, place it in a saucepan -with a very little water, just sufficient to cover the pine-apple; let it -simmer gently until it is tender, and then add sufficient white sugar to -make the liquid almost a syrup; a teaspoonful of corn-flour, made smooth in -a little cold water, can be added; but the sauce should be of the -consistency of syrup, and the corn-flour does away with the difficulty of -making it too sickly. The juice of half a lemon may be added, and is, -perhaps, an improvement. - - -PLUM SAUCE.--When made from ripe plums, take, say, a pound, and place them -in a stew-pan with a very little water and a quarter of a pound of sugar. -Take out the stones and crack them. Throw the kernels into boiling water -so that you can rub off the skin, and add them to the sauce after you have -rubbed the stewed plums through a wire sieve. - -To make plum sauce from dried French plums proceed exactly as in making -Prune Sauce. (_See_ PRUNE SAUCE.) - - -POIVRADE SAUCE.--Take an onion, a very small head of celery, and a carrot, -and cut them into little pieces, and put them into a frying-pan with a -little butter, a saltspoonful of thyme, one or two dried bay-leaves, and -about a quarter of a grated nutmeg and two or three sprigs of parsley. Fry -these till they turn a light-brown colour, then add a little stock or -water, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Let this boil in the frying-pan -for about half an hour, till the liquid is reduced in quantity. Thicken it -with a little brown roux, and rub it through a wire sieve, make it hot, and -serve. If wine is allowed, the addition of a little sherry is a great -improvement to this sauce. - - -PRUNE SAUCE.--Take a quarter of a pound of prunes, put them in a stew-pan -with just sufficient water to cover them, and let them stew. Put in one or -two strips of lemon-peel to stew with them, add a teaspoonful of brown -sugar, about sufficient powdered cinnamon to cover a shilling, and the -juice of half a lemon. When the prunes are quite tender take out the strip -of lemon-peel and stones, rub the whole through a wire sieve, and serve. - - -RADISH SAUCE.--Take a few bunches of radishes and grate them, and mix this -grated radish with a little oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. You can colour -the sauce red by adding a little beetroot, and make the sauce hot by adding -a little grated horse-radish. This cold sauce is exceedingly nice with -cheese. These _grated_ radishes are more digestible than radishes served -whole. - - -RASPBERRY SAUCE.--This sauce is simply stewed raspberries rubbed through a -wire sieve and sweetened. Some red-currant juice should be added to give -it a colour. It is very nice made hot and then added to one or two -beaten-up eggs and poured over any plain puddings, such as boiled rice, &c. - - -RATAFIA SAUCE.--Add a few drops of essence of ratafia to some sweetened -arrowroot or to some butter sauce. The sauce can be coloured pink with a -few drops of cochineal. - - -RAVIGOTTE SAUCE.--Put a tablespoonful each of Harvey's sauce, tarragon -vinegar, and chilli vinegar into a small saucepan, and let it boil till it -is reduced to almost one-half in quantity, in order to get rid of the -acidity. Now add about half a pint of butter sauce, and throw in a -tablespoonful of chopped blanched parsley. - - -ROBERT SAUCE.--Take a couple of onions, cut them up into small pieces, and -fry them with about an ounce of butter in a frying-pan. Drain off the -butter and add a couple of tablespoonfuls of vinegar to the frying-pan, and -let it simmer for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour so as to get rid of -the acidity of the vinegar. Now add a very little stock or water, stir it -tip, and thicken the sauce with a little brown roux. Add a dessertspoonful -of fresh mustard and a little pepper and salt. - - -SOUBISE SAUCE.--Sauce Soubise is simply white onion sauce, rubbed through a -wire sieve, and a little cream added. It is more delicate than ordinary -onion sauce, and is often served in France with roast pheasant. It owes -its name to a famous French general. - - -SORREL SAUCE.--Put about a quart of fresh green sorrel leaves (after being -thoroughly washed) into an enamelled saucepan, with a little fresh butter, -and let the sorrel stew till it is tender. Rub this through a wire sieve, -add a little powdered sugar and a little lemon juice; a little cream may be -added, but is not absolutely essential. - - -SWEET SAUCE.--Take half a pint of butter sauce, and sweeten it with a -little sugar. It can be flavoured by rubbing a little sugar on the outside -of a lemon, or with vanilla, essence of almonds, or any kind of sweet -essence. A little wine, brandy, or, still better, rum, is a great -improvement. Some persons add cream. - - -TARRAGON SAUCE.--Blanch a dozen tarragon leaves, chop them up, and stew -them in any kind of stock thickened with brown roux. - - -TARTAR SAUCE.--Take two or three tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise sauce, and -add to this a brimming teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley, as well as -a piece of onion or shallot about as big as the top of the thumb down to -the first joint, chopped very fine, and a brimming teaspoonful of French -mustard. Mix the whole well together. - -N.B.--A teaspoonful of anchovy sauce would be a great improvement were -anchovy sauce allowed in vegetarian cookery. - -TOMATO SAUCE.--The great secret of tomato sauce is to taste nothing but the -tomato. Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, cut off the stalks, and squeeze out -the pips, and put them in a stew-pan with a little butter, and let them -stew till they are tender, and then rub the whole through a wire sieve. -This, in our opinion, is the best tomato sauce that can be made, the only -seasoning being a little pepper and salt. This wholesome and delicious -sauce can, however, be spoilt in a variety of ways--by the addition of -mace, cloves, shallots, onions, thyme, &c. It can also be made very -unwholesome by the addition of a quantity of vinegar. - -TRUFFLE SAUCE.--This sauce is very expensive if made from whole fresh -truffles, but can be made more cheaply if you can obtain some truffle chips -or parings. These must be stewed in a little stock, thickened with brown -roux, and then rubbed through a wire sieve, a little sherry being a great -improvement if wine is allowed. - - -VANILLA SAUCE.--Add some essence of vanilla to some sweetened butter sauce. - - -WHITE SAUCE.--White sauce is sometimes required for vegetables and -sometimes for puddings. In the former case some good-flavoured, uncoloured -stock must be thickened with white roux, and then have sufficient cream -added to it to make the sauce a pure white. - -When white sauce is wanted for puddings, sufficient butter sauce must be -sweetened, and very slightly flavoured with nutmeg or almond, and then an -equal quantity of cream added to it to make it a pure white. White sauce -should not have with it any strong predominant flavour. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -SAVOURY RICE, MACARONI, OATMEAL, &c. - -RICE. - - -Probably all persons will admit that rice is a too much neglected form of -food in England. When we remember how small a quantity of rice weekly is -found sufficient to keep alive millions and millions of our -fellow-creatures in the East, it seems to be a matter of regret that rice -as an article of food is not more used by the thousands and thousands of -our fellow creatures in the East--not in the ordinary acceptation of the -term, but East of Temple Bar. Rice is cheap, nourishing, easily cooked, -and equally easily digested, yet that monster, custom, seems to step in and -prevent the bulk of the poor availing themselves of this light and -nourishing food solely for the reason that, as their grandfathers and -grandmothers did not eat rice before them, they do not see any reason why -they should, like the Irishman who objected to have his feet washed on the -same ground. Of the different kinds of rice Carolina is the best, the -largest, and the most expensive. Patna rice is almost as good; the grains -are long, small, and white, and it is the best rice for curry. Madras rice -is the cheapest. - -Rice, pure and simple, is the food most suited for hot climates and where a -natural indolence of disposition results in one's day's work of an ordinary -Englishman being divided among twenty people. As we move towards more -temperate zones it will be found the universal custom to qualify it by -mixing it with some other substance; thus, though rice is largely eaten in -Italy, it is almost invariably used in conjunction with Parmesan cheese. -Rice contains no flesh-forming properties whatever, as it contains no -nitrogen; and with all due respect to vegetarians, it will be found that as -we recede from the Equator and advance towards the Poles our food must of -necessity vary with the latitude, and, whereas we may start on a diet of -rice, we shall be forced, sooner or later, to depend upon a diet of -pemmican, or food of a similar nature. - - -RICE, TO BOIL.--The best method of boiling rice is, at any rate, a much -disputed point, if not an open question. There are as many ways almost of -boiling rice as dressing a salad, and each one thinks his own way the best. -We will mention a few of the most simple, and will illustrate it by boiling -a small quantity that can be contained in a teacup. Of course, boiling -rice is very much simplified if you want some rice-water as well as rice -itself. Rice-water contains a great deal of nourishment, a fact which is -well illustrated by the well-known story of the black troops who served in -India under Clive, who, at the siege of Arcot, told Clive, when they were -short of provisions, that the water in which the rice was boiled would be -sufficient for them, while the more substantial grain could be preserved -for the European troops. Take a teacupful of rice and wash the rice in -several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Now throw the rice -into boiling water, say a quart; let the rice boil gently till it is -tender, strain off the rice and reserve the rice-water for other purposes. -The time rice will take to boil treated this way would be probably about -twenty minutes, but this time would vary slightly with the quality and size -of the rice. - - * * * * * - -Many years ago we watched a black man boiling rice on board a P. and O. -boat (the _Mizapore_); he proceeded as follows:--He boiled the rice for -about ten minutes, or perhaps a minute or two longer, strained it off in a -sieve, and then washed the rice with cold water, and then put the rice back -in the stew-pan to once more get hot and swell. Of course, this rice was -being boiled for curry, and certainly the result was that each grain was -beautifully separated from every other grain. We do not think, however, -that this method of boiling rice is customary on all the boats of the P. -and O. Company. Of course this method of boiling rice was somewhat -wasteful. - -By far the most economical method of boiling rice is as follows; and we -would recommend it to all who are in the habit of practising economy on the -grounds of either duty or necessity. Wash thoroughly, as before, a -teacupful of rice and put it in a small stew-pan or saucepan with two -breakfastcupfuls of water, bring this to a boil and let it boil for ten -minutes, then remove the saucepan to the side of the fire and let the rice -soak and swell for about twenty minutes. After a little time, you can put -a cloth on the top of the saucepan to absorb the steam, similar to the way -you treat potatoes after having strained off the water. - -In boiling rice we must remember that there are two ways in which rice is -served. One is as a meal in itself, the other as an accompaniment to some -other kind of food. It will be found in Italy and Turkey and in the East -generally, where rice forms, so to speak, the staff of life, that it is not -cooked so soft and tender as it is in England, where it is generally served -with something else. In fact, each grain of rice may be said to resemble -an Irish potato, inasmuch as it has a heart in it. In Ireland potatoes, as -a rule, are not cooked so much as they are in most parts of England. -Probably the reason of this is, in most cases, that experience has taught -people that there is more stay in rice and potatoes when served in a state -that English people would call "under-done." There is no doubt that the -waste throughout the length and breadth of this prosperous land through -over-cooking is something appalling. - -Another very good method of boiling rice is the American style. Take a -good-sized stew-pan or saucepan that has a tight-fitting lid. Put a cloth -over the saucepan, after first pouring in, say, a pint of water; push down -the cloth, keeping it tight, so as to make a well, but do not let the cloth -reach the water; wash the rice as before, and put on the lid tight. Of -course, with the cloth the lid will fit very tight indeed. Now put the -saucepan on the fire and make the water boil continuously. By these means -you steam the rice till it is tender and lose none of the nourishment. We -can always learn from America. - - -RISOTTO A LA MILANNAISE.--Take a teacupful of rice, wash it thoroughly and -dry it. Chop up a small onion and put it in the bottom of a small stew-pan -and fry the onion to a light-brown colour. Now add the dry rice, and stir -this up with the onion and butter till the rice also is fried of a nice -light-brown colour. Now add two breakfastcupfuls of stock or water and a -pinch of powdered saffron, about sufficient to cover a threepenny-piece; -let the rice boil for ten or eleven minutes, move the saucepan to the side -of the fire and let it stand for twenty minutes or half an hour till it has -absorbed all the stock or water. Now mix in a couple of tablespoonfuls of -grated Parmesan cheese. Flavour with a little pepper and salt, and serve -the whole very hot. - - -RICE WITH CABBAGE AND CHEESE.--Wash some rice and let it soak in some hot -water, with a cabbage sliced up, for about an hour; then strain it off and -put the rice and cabbage in a stew-pan with some butter, a little pepper -and salt, and about a quarter of a grated nutmeg. Toss these about in the -butter for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour over the fire, but do not -let them turn colour; then add a small quantity of water or stock, let it -stew till it is tender, and then serve it very hot with some grated cheese -sprinkled over the top. - -N.B.--The end of cheese rind can be utilised with this dish. - - -RICE WITH CHEESE.--Wash some rice and then boil it for ten or eleven -minutes in some milk, and let it stand till it has soaked up all the milk. -The proportion generally is, as we have said before, a teacupful of rice to -two breakfastcupfuls of milk; but as we shall want the rice rather moist on -the present occasion, we must allow a little more milk. Now mix in some -grated cheese and a little pepper and salt, place the mixture in a -pie-dish, and cover the top with grated cheese, and place the pie-dish in -the oven and bake till the top is nicely browned, and then serve. - -Some cooks add a good spoonful of made mustard to the mixture. Some -persons prefer it and some don't; it is therefore best to serve some made -mustard with the rice and cheese at table. Unless the mixture was fairly -moist before it was put into the pie-dish, it would dry up in the oven and -become uneatable. - - -RICE, CURRIED.--Boil a teacupful of well-washed rice in two -breakfastcupfuls of water, and let the rice absorb all the water; put a -cloth in the saucepan, and stir up the rice occasionally with a fork till -the grains become dry and separate easily the one from the other. Now mix -it up with some curry sauce, make the whole hot, and send it to table with -a few whole bay-leaves mixed in with the rice. Only sufficient curry sauce -should be added to moisten the rice--it must not be rice swimming in gravy; -or you can make a well in the middle of the boiled rice and pour the curry -sauce into this. - - -RICE BORDERS (CASSEROLES).--Casseroles, or rice borders, form a very -handsome dish. It consists of a large border made of rice, the outside of -which can be ornamented and the centre of which can be filled with a -macedoine (_i.e._, a mixture) of fruit or vegetables. As you are probably -aware, grocers have in their shop-windows small tins with copper labels, on -which the word is printed "Macedoine." This tin contains a mixture of -cut-up, cooked vegetables. These are very useful to have in the house, as -a nice dish can be served at a few moments' notice. Mixed fruits are also -sold in bottles under the name of Macedoine of Fruits. Of course, both -vegetables and fruit can be prepared at home much cheaper from fresh fruit -and vegetables, but this requires time and forethought. These mixtures are -very much improved in appearance when served in a handsomely made rice -border, and as the border is eaten with the vegetables and fruit there is -no want of economy in the recipe. Suppose we are going to make a rice -border. Take a pound of rice and wash it carefully if we are going to fill -it with fruit we must boil it in sweetened milk, but if we are going to -fill it with vegetables we must boil it in vegetable stock or water. Add, -as the case may be, sufficient liquid to boil the rice till it is -thoroughly tender and soft. Now place it in a large bowl, and with a -wooden spoon mash it till it becomes a sort of firm, compact paste; then -take it out and roll it into the shape of a cannon-ball, and having done -this, flatten it till it becomes of the shape of the cheeses one meets with -in Holland--flat top and bottom, with rounded edges. You can now ornament -the outside by making it resemble a fluted mould of jelly. The best way of -doing this is to cut a carrot in half and scoop out part of the inside with -a cheese-scoop, so that the width of the part where it is scooped is about -the same as the two flat sides. Make the outside of the rice perfectly -smooth with the back of a wooden spoon. Butter the carrot mould to prevent -it sticking, and press this gently on the outside of the shape of rice till -it resembles the outside of a column in Gothic architecture, then place it -in the oven and let it bake till it is firm and dry. Then scoop out the -centre and put it back for a short time. If the border is going to be used -for a macedoine of vegetables, beat up a yolk of egg and paint the outside -of the casserole with this, and then it will bake a nice golden-brown -colour. Now take it out of the oven and fill it accordingly. It can be -served hot or cold, or it can be filled with a German salad. (_See_ -MACEDOINE OF FRUIT; MACEDOINE OF VEGETABLES; SALAD, GERMAN.) - - -RICE CROQUETTES, SAVOURY.--Boil a teacupful of rice in some stock or water -(about two breakfastcupfuls), till it is tender, and until the rice has -absorbed all the water or stock. Chop up a small onion very fine, fry it -till tender in a very little butter, but do not let it brown; add a small -teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs, a brimming teaspoonful of chopped -parsley, to the contents of the frying-pan for two or three minutes, and -then add them to the rice. Mix it well together, and let the rice dry in -the oven till the mixture is capable of being rolled into balls. Now take -two eggs, separate the yolk from the white of one, beat up the whole egg -and one white thoroughly in a basin, but do no beat it to a froth; add the -rice mixture to this, mix it again very thoroughly, and then roll it into -balls about the size of a small walnut, seasoning the mixture with -sufficient pepper and salt. Roll these balls in flour, in order to insure -the outside being dry, and roll them backwards and forwards on the sieve in -order to get rid of the superfluous flour. Make some very fine -bread-crumbs from some stale bread; next beat up the yolk of egg with about -a dessertspoonful of warm water. Dip the rice-balls into this, and then -cover them with the bread-crumbs. Let them stand for an hour or two for -the bread-crumbs to get dry, and then fry them a light golden-brown colour -in a little oil. Fried parsley can be served with them. - -Instead of bread-crumbs you can use up broken vermicelli--the bottom of a -jar of vermicelli can sometimes be utilised this way. This has a very -pretty appearance. The vermicelli browns quickly, and the croquettes have -the appearance of little balls covered in brown network. - - -RICE, SAVOURY.--There are several ways of serving savoury rice. The rice -can be boiled in some stock, strongly flavoured with onion and celery, and -when cooked sufficiently tender one or two eggs can be beaten up with it, -pepper and salt added, and the mixture served with grated cheese. - -Rice can also be rendered savoury by the addition of chopped mushrooms, -pepper and salt, and a little butter, and if a tin of mushrooms is used, -the liquor in the tin should be added to the boiled rice, but in every case -the rice should be made to absorb the liquor in which it is boiled. Eggs -can again be added, as well as grated Parmesan cheese. - -A cheap and quick way of making rice savoury is to mix it with a large -tablespoonful of chutney; make it hot with a little butter, and add -pepper--cayenne if preferred--and a little lemon-juice. - -Rice can also be served as savoury by boiling it in any of the sauces that -may be termed savoury in distinction to those that are sweet, given in the -chapter entitled "Sauces." - - -RICE AND EGGS.--Boil, say half a pound of rice, and let it absorb the water -in which it is boiled. Take four hard-boiled eggs, separate the yolks from -the whites, chop the whites very fine, and add them to the rice with about -a brimming teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley and sufficient savoury -herbs to cover a sixpence. Put this in the saucepan and make it hot, with -a little butter, and flavour with plenty of pepper and salt. In the -meantime beat the yellow hard-boiled yolks to a yellow powder, turn out the -rice mixture, when thoroughly hot, into a vegetable dish, and put the -yellow powder either in the centre or make a ring of the yellow powder -round the edge of the rice, and serve a little pile of fried parsley in the -middle. - - -RICE AND TOMATO.--Take half-a-dozen ripe tomatoes, squeeze out the pips, -and put them in a tin in the oven with a little butter to bake; baste them -occasionally with a little butter. In the meantime boil half a pound of -rice in a little stock or water, only adding sufficient so that the rice -can absorb the liquid. When this is done (and this will take about the -same time as the tomatoes take to bake), pour all the liquid and butter in -the tin on to the rice and stir it well up with some pepper and salt. Put -this on a dish, and serve the tomatoes on the rice with the red, unbroken -side uppermost. - - -MACARONI.--Macaroni is a preparation of pure wheaten flour. It is chiefly -made in Italy, though a good deal is made in Geneva and Switzerland. The -best macaroni is made in the neighbourhood of Naples. The wheat that grows -there ripens quickly under the pure blue sky and hot sun, and consequently -the outside of the wheat is browner while the inside of the wheat is whiter -than that grown in England. The wheat is ground and sifted repeatedly. It -is generally sifted about five times, and the pure snow-white flour that -falls from the last sifting is made into macaroni. It is first mixed with -water and made into a sort of dough, the dough being kneaded in the truly -orthodox Eastern style by being trodden out with the feet. It is then -forced by a sort of rough machinery through holes, partially baked during -the process, and then hung up to dry. Macaroni contains a great amount of -nourishment, and it is only made from the purest and finest flour. It is -the staple dish throughout Italy, and in whatever form or way it is cooked, -except as a sweet, tomatoes and grated Parmesan cheese seem bound to -accompany it. - - -SPARGHETTI.--Sparghetti is a peculiar form of macaroni. Ordinary macaroni -is made in the form of long tubes, and when macaroni pudding is served in -schools, it is often irreverently nicknamed by the boys gas-pipes. -Sparghetti is not a tube, but simply macaroni made in the shape of ordinary -wax-tapers, which it resembles very much in appearance. In Italy it is -often customary to commence dinner with a dish of sparghetti, and should -the dinner consist as well of soup, fish, entree, salad, and sweet, the -sparghetti would be served before the soup. Take, say, half a pound of -sparghetti, wash it in cold water, and throw it instantly into boiling -salted water; boil it till it is tender, about twenty minutes, drain it, -put it into a hot vegetable-dish, and mix in two or three tablespoonfuls of -grated Parmesan cheese; toss it about lightly with a couple of forks, till -the cheese melts and forms what may be called cobwebs on tossing it about. -Add also two tablespoonfuls of tomato conserve (sold by all grocers, in -bottles), and serve immediately. This is very cheap, very satisfying, and -very nourishing; and it is to be regretted that this popular dish is not -more often used by those who are not vegetarians, who would benefit both in -pocket and in health were they to lessen their butcher's bill by at any -rate commencing dinner, like the Italians, with a dish of sparghetti. - - -MACARONI--ITALIAN FASHION.--This is very similar to sparghetti, only -ordinary pipe macaroni is used. Take, say, a teacupful of macaroni, wash -it, break it up into two-inch pieces, and throw it into boiling water that -has been salted. Strain it of off, put it in the stew-pan for a few -minutes, with a little piece of butter and some pepper and salt. Add a -tablespoonful of tomato conserve, and serve it with some grated Parmesan -cheese, served separate in a dish. - -Some rub the stew-pan with a head of garlic. This gives it what may be -called a more foreign flavour, but this should not be done unless you know -your guests like garlic. Unfortunately, the proper use of garlic is very -little understood in this country. - -MACARONI CHEESE.--Some years back this was almost the only form in which -macaroni was served in this country. Macaroni cheese used to be served at -the finish of dinner in a dried-up state, and was perhaps one of the most -indigestible dishes which the skill, or want of skill, of our English cooks -was able to produce. Wash and then boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni -in a little milk till it is quite tender, then put into a well-buttered -oval tin a layer of macaroni, and cover this with a layer of bread-crumbs, -mixed with grated cheese, and add a few little lumps of butter; then put -another layer of macaroni and another layer of bread-crumbs and cheese. -Continue alternate layers till you pile up the dish, taking care to have a -layer of dried bread-crumbs at the top. Warm some butter, but do not oil -it, and pour some of this warm butter over the top of the dish to moisten -them; put the dish in the oven till it is hot through, then take it out and -brown the top quickly with a red-hot salamander. If you leave the macaroni -cheese in the oven too long the dish will taste oily and the cheese get so -hard as to become absolutely indigestible. Any kind of grated cheese will -do for this dish, but to the English palate it is best when made from a -moist cheese similar to that which would be used in making Welsh rabbit. - - -MACARONI AND EGGS.--Take half a pound of macaroni and throw it into boiling -water that has been salted. In the meantime have ready four hard-boiled -eggs. When the macaroni is nearly tender throw the hard-boiled eggs into -cold water for a minute, in order to enable you to take off the shells -without burning your fingers. Cut the eggs in half, take out the half -yellow yolk without breaking it; cut the whites of the eggs into rings and -mix these rings with the macaroni on the dish. The macaroni and eggs must -be flavoured with pepper and salt, and if possible pour a little white -sauce over the whole. If you have no white sauce add a little cream or a -little thickened milk with a little butter dissolved in it; now sprinkle a -little chopped blanched parsley over the whole and ornament the dish with -the eight half-yolks. - - -MACARONI A LA REINE.--Boil half a pound of pipe macaroni. Meanwhile warm -slowly in a saucepan three-quarters of a pint of cream, and slice into it -half a pound of Stilton or other white cheese, add two ounces of good fresh -butter, two blades of mace, pounded, a good pinch of cayenne and a little -salt. Stir until the cheese is melted and the whole is free from lumps, -when put in the macaroni and move it gently round the pan until mixed and -hot, or put the macaroni on a hot dish and pour the sauce over. It may be -covered with fried bread-crumbs of a pale colour and browned in a Dutch -oven. - - -MACARONI AU GRATIN.--Break up a pound of macaroni in three-inch lengths, -boil as usual and drain. Put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of fresh -butter, the macaroni, twelve ounces of Parmesan and Gruyere cheese mixed, -and about a quarter of a pint of some good sauce, white sauce. Move the -stew-pan and its contents over the fire until the macaroni has absorbed the -butter, etc., then turn it out on a dish, which should be garnished with -croutons of fried bread. Pile it in the shape of a dome, cover with -bread-raspings, a little clarified butter run through a colander, and brown -very lightly with a salamander. - -N.B.--The above two recipes are taken from "Cassell's Dictionary of -Cookery." - - -MACARONI AS AN ORNAMENT.--Macaroni is sometimes used to ornament the -outside of puddings, either savoury or sweet. Suppose the pudding has to -be made in a small round mould or basin. Some pipe macaroni is boiled in -water till it is tender, and then cut up into little pieces a quarter of an -inch in length. The inside of the mould is first thickly buttered, and -then these little quarter-inch tubes are stuck in the butter close -together; the pudding, for instance a custard pudding, is then poured into -the mould and the mould steamed. When the pudding is turned out the -outside of the pudding has the appearance of a honey-comb, and looks -extremely pretty. The process is not difficult, but rather troublesome, as -it requires time and patience. - - -MACARONI, TIMBALE OF--This is a somewhat expensive dish. You have first to -decorate a plain mould with what is called _nouilles_ paste, which is made -by mixing half a pound of flour with five yolks of eggs. The mould is then -lined with ordinary short paste, made with half a pound of flour, a quarter -of a pound of butter, and one yolk of egg, mixed in the ordinary way. When -the mould is lined, you have to fill it up with flour, and bake it in a -moderate oven for about an hour. You then take it out, empty out the flour -and brush it well out with an ordinary brush and dry the mould in a very -slack oven. The mould is then filled with some macaroni that has been -boiled tender in milk and flavoured with vanilla and sugar and Parmesan -cheese. The macaroni must be so managed that it absorbs the moisture. The -mould is filled, made hot, and then turned out. It is customary to shake -some powdered sugar over the mould, and then glaze it with a red-hot -salamander. - -N.B.--Very few kitchens possess a proper salamander, but if you make the -kitchen shovel red-hot it will be found to answer the same purpose. - - -MACARONI IN SCOLLOP SHELLS.--Take half a pound of macaroni, wash it, and -throw it into boiling water. Take the macaroni out, drain it, and throw it -into cold water. Then take it out and cut it into pieces not more than -half an inch in length. Take about a quarter of a pound of butter, melt it -in a stew-pan, and add about a cupful of milk, or still better, cream. -Stir it and dredge in enough flour to make it thick, or still better, -thicken it with a little white roux; now add some pepper and salt, about a -quarter of a grated nutmeg, two or three spoonfuls of grated Parmesan -cheese; add the cut-up macaroni and stir the whole well up over the fire -together and fill the scollop shells with the mixture, and throw some -grated cheese over the top. Bake the scollops in the oven till the cheese -begins to brown; then pour a little oiled butter over the top of the -cheese. If made with cream this dish is somewhat rich, but forms an -admirable meal eaten with plenty of bread. - - -MACARONI NUDELS.--The word nudel is probably derived from French _nouilles_ -paste. It is made in a similar manner, or nearly so. French cooks use -only yolk of egg and flour. English cooks use beaten-up eggs, and -sometimes even reserve the yolks for other purposes and make the paste with -white of egg. In any case, the yolks, the whole eggs, or the white without -the yolks, must be well beaten up and then mixed in with the flour with the -fingers till it makes a stiff paste. This paste or dough is then rolled -out with a straight rolling pin--(not an English one)--till it is as thin -as a wafer. The board must be well floured or it will stick. A marble -slab is best, and if you are at a loss for a rolling-pin try an empty black -bottle. It is very important to roll the pastry thin, and it has been well -observed that the best test of thinness is to be able to read a book -through the paste. When rolled out, let each thin cake dry for five or ten -minutes. If you have a box of cutters you can cut this paste into all -sorts of shapes according to the shape of the cutters, or you can cut each -thin cake into pieces about the same size, and then with a sharp dry knife -cut the paste into threads. These threads or ornamental shapes can be -thrown into boiling clear soup, when they will separate of their own -accord. Nudel paste is, in fact, home-made Italian paste, or, when cut -into threads, home-made vermicelli. It is very nourishing, as it is made -with eggs and flour. - - -MACARONI, SAVOURY.--Take half a pound of macaroni and boil it in some -slightly salted water, and let it boil and simmer till the macaroni is -tender and absorbs all the water in which it is boiled. Now take a -dessertspoonful of raw mustard, _i.e._, mustard in the yellow powder. Mix -this gradually with the macaroni, and add five or six tablespoonfuls of -grated Parmesan cheese and a little cayenne or white pepper according to -taste. Turn the mixture out on to a dish, sprinkle some more grated -Parmesan cheese over the top, bake it in the oven till it is slightly -brown, pour a little oiled butter on the top, and serve. - - -MACARONI AND CHESTNUTS.--Bake about twenty chestnuts till they are tender, -and then peel them and pound them in a mortar, with a little pepper and -salt and butter, till they are a paste. Next wash and boil in the ordinary -way half a pound of macaroni. Drain off the macaroni and put it in a -stew-pan with the chestnuts and about a couple of ounces of butter to -moisten it, and stir it all together and put an onion in to flavour it as -if you were making bread sauce; but the onion must be taken out whole -before it is served. If the mixture gets too dry, it can be moistened with -a little milk or stock. After it has been stirred together for about a -quarter of an hour, turn it out on to a dish, cover it with a little -Parmesan cheese, bake in the oven till it is brown, and moisten the top -when browned with a little oiled butter. - - -MACARONI AND TOMATOES.--Take half a pound of macaroni; wash it and boil it -until it is tender. In the meantime take half a dozen or more ripe -tomatoes; cut off the stalks, squeeze out the pips, and place them in a tin -in the oven with a little butter to prevent their sticking. It is as well -to baste the tomatoes once or twice with the butter and the juice that will -come from them. Put the macaroni when tender and well drained off into a -vegetable-dish, pour the contents of the tin, butter and juice, over the -macaroni and add pepper and salt, and toss it lightly together. Now place -the whole tomatoes on the top of the macaroni, round the edge, at equal -distances. It is a great improvement to the appearance of the dish to -sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over the macaroni. The tomatoes -should be placed with the smooth, red, unbroken side uppermost. - - -Macaroni and Cream.--Boil half a pound of macaroni; cut it up into pieces -about two inches long and put it into a stew-pan with two ounces of butter -and a quarter of a pound of grated cheese, composed of equal parts of -Gruyere and Parmesan cheese. Moisten this with about three tablespoonfuls -of cream. Toss it all lightly together till the cheese makes cobwebs. Add -a little pepper and salt and serve with some fried bread round the edge cut -up into ornamental shapes. Carefully made pieces of toast, cut into -triangles, will do instead of the fried bread. - - -TAGLIATELLI.--Take some flour and water, and with the addition of a little -salt make a paste which can be rolled out quite thin; cut this into shapes -of the breadth of half a finger. Throw them into boiling water and let -them boil a few minutes. Then remove them to cold water; drain them on a -sieve and use them as macaroni; place at the bottom of a dish some butter -and grated cheese, then a layer of _tagliatelli_ seasoned with pepper, -another layer of butter and cheese, and then one of _tagliatelli_, until -the whole is used; pour over it a glass of cream, add a layer of cheese, -and finish like macaroni cheese, browning it in the oven. - - -OATMEAL PORRIDGE.--Of all dishes used by vegetarians there are none more -wholesome, more nourishing, or more useful as an article of everyday diet -for breakfast than oatmeal porridge. When we remember that the Scotch, -who, for both body and brain, rank perhaps first amongst civilised nations, -almost live on this cheap and agreeable form of food, we should take -particular pains in the preparation of a standing dish which is in itself a -strong argument in favour of a vegetarian diet when we look at the results, -both mentally and bodily, that have followed its use North of the Tweed. -The following excellent recipe for the preparation of oatmeal porridge is -taken from a book entitled, "A Year's Cookery," by Phyllis Browne (Cassell -& Co.):--"When there are children in the family it is a good plan, whatever -they may have for breakfast, to let them begin the meal either with oatmeal -porridge or bread-and-milk. Porridge is wholesome and nourishing, and will -help to make them strong and hearty. Even grown-up people frequently enjoy -a small portion of porridge served with treacle and milk. Oatmeal is -either 'coarse,' 'medium,' or 'fine.' Individual taste must determine -which of these three varieties shall be chosen. Scotch people generally -prefer the coarsest kind. The ordinary way of making porridge is the -following--Put as much water as is likely to be required into a saucepan -with a sprinkling of salt, and let the water boil. Half a pint of water -will make a single plateful of porridge. Take a knife (a 'spurtle' is the -proper utensil) in the right hand, and some Scotch, or coarse, oatmeal in -the left hand, and sprinkle the meal in gradually, stirring it briskly all -the time; if any lumps form draw them to the side of the pan and crush them -out. When the porridge is sufficiently thick (the degree of thickness must -be regulated by individual taste), draw the pan back a little, _put on the -lid_, and let the contents simmer gently till wanted; if it can have two -hours' simmering, all the better; but in hundreds of families in Scotland -and the North of England it is served when it has boiled for ten minutes or -a quarter of an hour; less oatmeal is required when it can boil a long -time, because the simmering swells the oatmeal, and so makes it go twice as -far. During the boiling the porridge must be stirred frequently to keep it -from sticking to the saucepan and burning, but each time this is done the -lid must be put on again. When it is done enough it should be poured into -a basin or upon a plate, and served hot with sugar or treacle and milk or -cream. The very best method that can be adopted for making porridge is to -soak the coarse Scotch oatmeal in water for _twelve hours_, or more (if the -porridge is wanted for breakfast it may be put into a pie-dish over night, -and left till morning). As soon as the fire is lighted in the morning it -should be placed on it, stirred occasionally, kept covered, and boiled as -long as possible, although it may be served when it has boiled for twenty -minutes. When thus prepared it will be almost like a delicate jelly, and -acceptable to the most fastidious palate. The proportions for porridge -made in this way are a heaped tablespoonful of coarse oatmeal to a pint of -water. - -"It is scarcely necessary to give directions for making-- - - -"BREAD AND MILK, for everyone knows how this should be done. It may be -said that the preparation has a better appearance if the bread is cut very -small before the boiling milk is poured on it, and also that the addition -of a small pinch of salt takes away the insipidity. Rigid economists -sometimes swell the bread with boiling water, then drain this off and pour -milk in its place. This, however, is almost a pity, for milk is so very -good for children; and though recklessness is seldom to be recommended, a -mother might well be advised to be reckless about the amount of her milk -bill, provided always that the quantity of milk be not wasted, and that the -children have it." - - -MILK PORRIDGE.--Take a tablespoonful of oatmeal and mix it up in a cup with -a little cold milk till it is quite smooth, in a similar way as you would -mix ordinary flour and milk in making batter. Next put a pint of milk on -to boil, and as soon as it boils mix in the oatmeal and milk, and let it -boil for about a quarter of an hour, taking care to keep stirring it the -whole time. The fire should not be too fierce, as the milk is very apt to -burn. Flavour this with either salt or sugar. - - -RICE AND BARLEY PORRIDGE.--Take a quarter of a pound of rice and a quarter -of a pound of Scotch barley and wash them very thoroughly. The most -perfect way of washing barley and rice is to throw them into boiling water, -let them boil for five or ten minutes, and then strain them off. By this -means the dirty outside is dissolved. Next boil the rice and barley gently -for three or four hours, strain them off, and boil them up again in a -little milk for a short time before they are wanted. It will often be -found best to boil the barley for a couple of hours and then add the rice. -A little cream is a very great improvement. The porridge can be flavoured -with pepper and salt, but is very nice with brown sugar, treacle, or jam, -and when cold forms an agreeable accompaniment to stewed fruit. - - -WHOLE-MEAL PORRIDGE.--Boil a quart of water and gradually stir in about -half a pound of whole-meal; let it boil for about a quarter of an hour, and -serve. Cold milk should accompany this porridge. - - -LENTIL PORRIDGE.--To every quart of water add about six tablespoonfuls of -lentil flour; let the whole boil for about a quarter of an hour, and -flavour with pepper and salt. - - -HOMINY.--Take a teacupful of hominy, wash it in several waters and rub it -well between the hands, and throw away the grains that float on the top, -the same as you do with split peas, pour the water off the top, then strain -it off, and put it in a basin with a quart of water, and cover the basin -over with a cloth; put it by to soak overnight, should it be required for -breakfast in the morning. The next day put it in an enamelled stew-pan -with about a teaspoonful of salt, and let it simmer gently over the fire, -taking care that it does not burn. It is best to butter the bottom of the -saucepan, or if you have a small plate that will just go inside you will -find this a great protection. Let it simmer gently for rather more than an -hour. Stir it well up and flavour it with either sugar or salt, and let it -be eaten with cold milk poured on it on the plate, or with a little butter. - - * * * * * - -The hominy should simmer until it absorbs all the water in which it is -boiled. As a rule a good teacupful will absorb a quart. - - -HOMINY, FRIED.--This is made from the remains of cold boiled hominy. When -cold it will be a firm jelly. Cut the cold hominy into slices, flour them, -egg and bread-crumb them, and then plunge them into some smoking hot oil -till they are of a nice bright golden colour. They are very nice eaten -with lemon-juice and sugar, or they can be served with orange marmalade. - - -FRUMENTY.--Take a quarter of a pint of wheat, wash it thoroughly, and let -it soak for twelve hours or more in water. Strain it off and boil it in -some milk till it is tender, but do not let it get pulpy. As soon as it is -tender add a quart of milk, flavoured with a little cinnamon, three ounces -of sugar, three ounces of carefully washed grocer's currants, and let it -boil for a quarter of an hour. Beat up three yolks of eggs in a tureen, -and gradually add the mixture. It must not be added to the eggs in a -boiling state or else they will curdle. A wineglassful of brandy is a -great improvement, but is not absolutely necessary. The wheat takes a long -time to get tender, probably four hours. - - -SAGO PORRIDGE.--Wash the sago in cold water and boil it in some water, -allowing about two tablespoonfuls to every pint; add pepper and salt and -let cold milk be served with the porridge. - - -MILK TOAST.--This is a very useful way of using up stale bread. Toast the -bread a light brown, and if by chance any part gets black scrape it gently -off. Butter the toast slightly, lay the toast on the bottom of a -soup-plate, and pour some boiling milk over it. Very little butter should -be used, and children often prefer a thin layer of marmalade to butter. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -EGGS (SAVOURY) AND OMELETS. - - -EGGS, PLAIN BOILED.--There is an old saying that there is reason in the -roasting of eggs. This certainly applies equally to the more common -process of boiling them. There are few breakfast delicacies more popular -than a new-laid egg. There are few breakfast indelicacies more revolting -than the doubtful egg which makes its appearance from time to time, and -which may be classed under the general heading of "Shop 'uns." It is a sad -and melancholy reflection that these more than doubtful "shop 'uns" were -all _once_ new-laid. It is impossible to draw any hard-and-fast line to -say at what exact period an egg ceases to be fit for boiling. There is an -old tradition, the truth of which we do not endorse, that eggs may arrive -at a period when, though they are not fit to be boiled, fried, poached, or -hard-boiled, they are still good enough for puddings and pastry. There is -no doubt that many good puddings are spoilt because cooks imagine they can -use up doubtful eggs. - -When eggs are more than doubtful, they are often bought up by the smaller -pastry-cooks in cheap and poor neighbourhoods of our large towns, such as -the East-End of London. These eggs are called "spot eggs," and are sold at -thirty and forty a shilling. They utilise them as follows: They hold the -egg up in front of a bright gas-light, when the small black spot can be -clearly seen. This black spot is kept at the lowest point of the egg, -_i.e._, the egg is held so that this black spot is at the bottom. The -upper part of the egg is then broken and poured off, the black spot being -retained. The moment the smallest streak proceeds from this black spot the -pouring-off process is stopped. Of course, the black part is all thrown -away, the stench from it being almost intolerable, containing, as it does, -sulphuretted hydrogen. We mention the fact for what it is worth. It would -be a bold man who tried to lay down any law as to where waste ceases and -the use of wrongful material commences. Everything depends upon the -circumstances of the case in question. We fear there are many thousands, -hundreds of thousands, in this great city of London, whose everyday life -more or less compares with that of a shipwrecked crew. They "fain would -fill their belly with the husks that the swine do eat, but no man gives -unto them." There is this to be said in favour of vegetarian diet--that, -were it universal, grinding poverty would be banished from the earth. We -must not cry out too soon about using what some men call bad material. -Lord Byron, when he was starving after shipwreck, was glad to make a meal -off the paws of his favourite dog, which had been thrown away when the -carcase had been used on a former occasion. - -The simplest way of boiling eggs is to place them at starting in boiling -water, and boil them from three to three and a half to four minutes, -according to whether they are liked very lightly boiled, medium, or -well-set. - -The egg saucepan should be small, so that when the eggs are first plunged -in it takes the water off the boil for a few seconds, otherwise the eggs -are likely to crack. This applies more particularly to French eggs, which -have thin, brittle shells containing an excess of lime, probably due to the -large quantity of chalk which is the distinguishing feature of the soil in -the _Pas de Calais_, which is the chief neighbourhood from which French -eggs are imported. - -_Over a million_ eggs are imported from France to England every day, -notwithstanding the fact that thousands are kept awake by the crying of -their neighbours' fowls. - -There is a strange delusion among Londoners that an egg is not good if it -is milky. This, of course, is never met with in London, for the simple -reason that a milky egg means, as a rule, than it has not been laid more -than a few hours. For this reason eggs literally hot from the nest are not -suitable for making puddings or even omelets. Eggs that have been kept one -or two days will be found to answer better, as they possess more binding -properties. - -There is an old-fashioned idea that the best way to boil an egg is to place -it in the saucepan in cold water, to put the saucepan on the fire, and as -soon as the water boils the egg is done. A very little reflection will -show that this entirely depends upon the size of the saucepan and the -fierceness of the fire. If the saucepan were the size of the egg, the -water would boil before the egg was hot through; on the other hand, no one -could place an egg in the copper on this principle and then light the -copper fire. - -Eggs are best boiled in the dining-room on the fire, or in an ornamental -egg-boiler. By this means we get the eggs _hot_, an occurrence almost -unknown in large hotels and big establishments. - - -EGGS, TO BREAK.--Whenever you break eggs, never mind what quantity, always -break each egg separately into a cup first; see that it is good, and then -throw it into a basin with the rest. One bad egg would spoil fifty. -Supposing you have a dozen or two dozen new-laid eggs just taken from the -nest, it is not an uncommon thing to have one that has been overlooked for -weeks, and which may be a half-hatched mass of putrefaction. - - -EGGS, FRIED.--The first point is to have a clean frying-pan, which is an -article of kitchen furniture very rarely indeed met with in this country. -For frying eggs, and for making omelets, it is essential that the -frying-pan should never be used for other purposes. - -If you think _your_ frying-pan is perfectly clean, warm it in front of the -fire for half a minute, put a clean white cloth over the top of the finger, -and then rub the inside of the frying-pan. - -To fry eggs properly, very little butter will be required; a little -olive-oil will answer the same purpose. If you have too much "fat," the -white of the eggs are apt to develop into big bubbles or blisters. Another -point is, you do not want too fierce a fire. Fry them very slowly. Some -cooks will almost burn the bottom of the egg before the upper part is set. -As soon as the white is set round the edge, you will often find the yolk -not set at all, surrounded by a rim of semi-transparent "albumen." When -this is the case, it is very often a good plan to take the frying-pan off -the fire (we are presuming the stove is a shut-up one), and place it in the -oven for a minute or so, leaving the oven door open. By this means the -heat of the oven will set the upper part of the eggs, and there is no -danger of the bottom part being burnt. - -There is a great art in taking fried eggs out of a frying-pan and serving -them on a dish. Fried eggs, to look nice, should have the yolk in the -centre, surrounded by a ring of white, perfectly round, rather more than an -inch in breadth. - -Take an egg-slice in the left hand, slide it under each egg separately, so -that the yolk gets well into the middle of the slice. Now take a knife in -the right hand and trim off the superfluous white. By this means you will -be able to do it neatly. The part trimmed away is virtually refuse. Of -course, you do not throw away more than is necessary, but take care that -the white rim round the yolk is of uniform breadth. Most cooks take the -egg out with their right hand, and attempt to trim it with the left; the -result is about as neat as what would happen were you to attempt to write a -letter with your left hand in a hurry. - -Very often the appearance of fried eggs is improved by sprinkling over them -a few specks of chopped parsley. - -In placing fried eggs on toast, place the slice over the toast and draw the -slice away. Do not push the egg on; you may break it. - -EGGS, POACHED.--The best kitchen implement to use for poaching eggs is a -good large frying-pan. The mistake is to let the water boil; it should -only just simmer. You should avoid having the white of the egg set too -hard. We should endeavour to have the eggs look as white as possible. In -order to insure this, put a few drops of vinegar or lemon-juice into the -water, break the eggs separately into a clip, and then turn them very -gently into the hot water. When they are set fairly firm take them out -with an egg-slice, using the left hand as before, and trim them with the -right. It is not necessary, in poached eggs, to have a clear yolk -surrounded with a white uniform ring. Poached eggs often look best when -the yolk reposes in a sort of pillow-case of white. Before putting them on -toast or spinach, &c., be very careful to drain off the water; this is -particularly important when the water is acid, especially with vinegar. - -EGGS, HARD-BOILED.--Place the eggs in cold water, bring the water to -boiling point, and let them boil for ten minutes; if the hard-boiled eggs -are wanted hot, put them in cold water for half a minute, in order that you -may remove the shells without burning your fingers. If the eggs are -required cold, it is best not to remove the shells till just before they -are wanted; but if they have to be served cold, similar to what we meet -with at railway refreshment-rooms, let them be served cold, _whole_. If -you cut a hard-boiled egg the yolk very soon gets discoloured and brown -round the edge, shrivels up, and becomes most unappetising in appearance. - - -EGGS, CURRIED.--Take some hard-boiled eggs, cut them in halves (remove the -half-yolks), and cut them into rings. Place all these rings round the edge -of the dish, and pile the white rings up to make a sort of border; pour -some thick curry sauce in the middle, place the half-yolks at equal -distances apart, on the white round the edge, and sprinkle a few specks of -green parsley round the edge on the whites; this will give the dish a -pretty appearance. - - -EGGS, DEVILLED.--Take, say, half a dozen eggs, boil them hard, remove the -shells while hot, cut them in halves, scoop out the yolk, and cut a tiny -piece off the bottom of each white cup, so that it will stand upright--a la -Columbus. Next take all the yolks, and put them in a basin, and pound them -with a little butter till you get a thick squash; add some cayenne pepper, -according to taste, a little white pepper, a little salt, and a few drops -of chilli-vinegar or ordinary vinegar; you can also add a little finely -chopped parsley--say a teaspoonful. Fill each cup with some of this -mixture, and as there will be more than enough to fill them, owing to the -butter, bring them to a point, like a cone. Devilled eggs are best served -cold, in which case they look best placed on a silver or ordinary dish, the -bottom of which is covered with green parsley; the white looks best on a -green bed. Some cooks chop up the little bits of white cut off from the -bottom of the cups, divide them into two portions, and colour one half pink -by shaking them in a saucer with a few drops of cochineal. These white and -pink specks are then sprinkled over the parsley. - -N.B.--In an ordinary way devilled eggs require anchovy sauce to be mixed -with the yolks, but anchovy sauce is not allowed in vegetarian cookery. - - -EGGS A LA BONNE FEMME.--Proceed exactly as in making devilled eggs, till -you place the yolks in the basin; then add to these yolks, while hot, a -little dissolved butter, and small pieces of chopped cold boiled carrot, -turnip, celery, and beet-root; season with white pepper and salt, and mix -well together. Add also a suspicion of nutmeg and a little lemon-juice. -Fill the cups with this while the mixture is moist, as when the butter gets -cold the mixture gets firm. If you use chopped beet-root as well as other -vegetables, it is best to fill half the cups with half the mixture before -any beetroot is added, then add the beet-root and stir the mixture well up -and it will turn a bright red. Now fill the remaining half of the cups, -and place them on the dish containing the parsley, alternately. The red -contrasts prettily with the light yellowish white of the first half. Do -not colour the white specks with cochineal, as this is a different shade of -red from the beet-root. You can chop up the white and sprinkle it over the -parsley with a little chopped beet-root as well. - - -EGGS A LA TRIPE.--Small Spanish onions are perhaps best for this dish, but -ordinary onions can be used. Cut the onions cross-ways after peeling them, -so that they fall in rings, and remove the white core. Two Spanish or half -a dozen ordinary onions will be sufficient. Fry these rings of onions in -butter till they are tender, without browning them. Take them out of the -frying-pan and put them aside. Add a spoonful of flour to the frying-pan, -and make a paste with the butter, and then add sufficient milk so that when -it is boiled and stirred up it makes a thick sauce; add pepper and salt, a -little lemon-juice, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Put back the -rings of onions into this, and let them simmer gently. Take half a dozen -hard-boiled eggs, cut the eggs in halves, remove the yolks, and cut the -whites into rings, like the onions, mixing these white egg-rings with the -onions and sauce; make the whole hot and serve on a dish, using the -hard-boiled half-yolks to garnish; sprinkle a little chopped parsley over -the whole, and serve. - - -EGG, FORCEMEAT OF, OR EGG BALLS.--Take three hard-boiled yolks of eggs, -powder them, mix in a raw yolk, add a little pepper and salt, a small -quantity of grated nutmeg, about a saltspoonful of finely chopped parsley, -chopped up with a pinch of savoury herbs, or a pinch of dust from bottled -savoury herbs, sifted from them, may be added instead. Roll these into -balls not bigger than a very small marble, flour them, and throw them into -boiling water till they are set. - -In many parts of the Continent, hard-boiled yolks of eggs, served whole, -are used as egg balls. A much cheaper way of making egg balls is as -follows:--Beat up one egg, add a teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley, -some pepper and salt, and a very little grated nutmeg. Sift a bottle of -ordinary mixed savoury herbs in a sieve, and take about half a saltspoonful -of the dust and mix this with the egg, This will be found really better -than using the herbs themselves. Now make some very fine bread-crumbs from -_stale_ bread, and mix this with the beaten-up egg till you make a sort of -soft paste or dough; roll this into balls the size of a marble, flour them, -and throw them into boiling water. The balls must be small or they will -split in boiling. - - -EGGS AU GRATIN.--Make about half a pint of butter sauce, make it hot over -the fire, and stir in about two ounces of Parmesan cheese, a quarter of a -nutmeg grated, some white pepper, and the juice of half a lemon. Make this -hot, and then add the yolks of four eggs. Stir it all up, and keep -stirring very quickly till the mixture begins to thicken, when you must -instantly remove it from the fire, but continue stirring for another -minute. In the meantime have ready some hard-boiled eggs, cut these into -slices, and make a circle of the bigger slices on a dish; then spread a -layer of the mixture over the slices of egg, and place another layer on -this smaller than the one below, then another layer of mixture, and so on -with alternate layers till you pile it up in the shape of a pyramid. -Spread a layer of the remainder of the mixture over the surface, and -sprinkle some powdered light-coloured bread-raspings mixed with some grated -Parmesan cheese over the whole; place the dish in the oven to get hot and -to slightly brown, and then serve. Some fried bread cut into pretty shapes -can be used to ornament the base. - - -EGGS AND SPINACH.--Make a thick puree of spinach; take some hard-boiled -eggs, cut them in halves while hot, after removing the shells, and press -each half a little way into the puree, so that the yellow yolk will be -shown surrounded by the white ring. Be very careful not to smear the edge -with the spinach. - -N.B.--Sometimes eggs are poached and laid on the spinach whole. - - -EGGS AND TURNIP-TOPS.--Proceed exactly as above, using a puree of -turnip-tops instead of spinach. - - -EGGS AND ASPARAGUS.--Have ready some of the green parts of asparagus, -boiled tender, and cut up into little pieces an eighth of an inch long so -that they look like peas. Beat up four eggs very thoroughly with some -pepper and salt, and mix in the asparagus, only do not break the pieces of -green. Melt a couple of ounces of butter in a small stew-pan, and as soon -as it commences to froth pour in the beaten-up egg and asparagus; stir the -mixture quickly over the fire, being careful to scrape the bottom of the -saucepan. As soon as the mixture thickens pour it on some hot toast, and -serve. - - -EGGS AND CELERY.--Have ready some stewed celery on toast. (_See_ CELERY, -STEWED.) Poach some eggs and place them on the top. Hard-boiled eggs, cut -into slices, can be added to the celery instead of poached eggs. - -When stewed celery is served as a course by itself, the addition of the -eggs and plenty of bread make it a wholesome and satisfying meal. - - -EGG SALAD.--(_See_ SALADS.) - - -EGG SANDWICHES.--(_See_ SANDWICHES.) - - -EGG SAUCE.--(_See_ SAUCES.) - - -EGG TOAST.--Beat up a couple of eggs, melt an ounce of butter in a -saucepan, and add to it a little pepper and salt. As soon as the butter -begins to froth, add the beaten-up egg and stir the mixture very quickly, -and the moment it begins to thicken pour it over a slice of hot buttered -toast. - -EGGS A LA DAUPHINE.--Take ten hard-boiled eggs, cut them in halves and -remove the yolks, and place the yolks in a basin with a piece of new bread, -about as big as the fist, that has been soaked in some milk, or better -still, cream; add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a quarter of a grated -nutmeg, and two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese; rub the whole well -together, and then add two whole eggs, well beaten up, to the mixture to -moisten it. Next fill all these white cups of eggs with some of this -mixture, place the eggs well together, and spread a thin layer of the -mixture over the top; then take a smaller number of half-eggs, filled, and -place on the top and make a pyramid, so that a single half-egg is at the -top. You can place ten half-eggs at the bottom in one layer, six half-eggs -on the top of these, spreading a thin layer of the mixture, then three -half-eggs, one more layer of the mixture, and then one half-egg at the -summit. This dish is sometimes ornamented by forcing hard-boiled yolks of -eggs through a wire sieve. It falls like yellow vermicelli into threads. -This dish should be placed in the oven, to be made quite hot, and some kind -of white sauce should be poured round the edge. - - -EGGS AND BLACK BUTTER.--Fry some eggs, serve them up on a hot dish, and -pour some black butter round the base. (_See_ BLACK BUTTER SAUCE.) - - -EGGS AND GARLIC.--This is better adapted for an Italian than an English -palate. Take half a dozen heads of garlic and fry them in a little butter -in order to remove the rankness of flavour. Take them out and pound them -in a mortar with rather more than a tablespoonful of oil; heat this on the -fire in a stew-pan, after adding some pepper and salt. Beat up an egg, and -stir this in with the oil and garlic till the mixture gets thick. Arrange -some slices of hard-boiled eggs--four eggs would be sufficient--pour this -mixture in the centre, and serve. - - -EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS.--Take half a pint of button mushrooms and, if fresh, -peel them and throw them instantly into water made acid with lemon-juice, -in order that they may not turn a bad colour. In the meantime slice up a -good-sized Spanish onion, and fry the onion in a little butter. As soon as -the onion is a little tender, chop up and add the mushrooms. Put all this -into a stew-pan with a little butter sauce, or a little water can be added -and then thickened with a little butter and flour. Let this simmer gently -for nearly half an hour, add a little made mustard, pepper and salt and a -dessertspoonful of vinegar. Before sending to table add half a dozen -hard-boiled eggs; the whites should be cut into rings, and should be only -put into the sauce long enough to get hot; the yolks should be kept -separate, but must be warmed up in the sauce. - - -EGGS AND ONIONS.--Cut up a large Spanish onion in slices, and fry it in -some butter till it is a light brown and tender, but do not let it burn; -drain off the butter and put the fried onion on a dish; sprinkle some -cayenne pepper and a little salt over the onions, and squeeze the juice of -a whole lemon over them. Now poach some eggs and serve them on the top of -the onion. - - -EGGS AND POTATOES.--Take the remains of some floury potatoes, beat up an -egg, and mix the potato flour with the egg. You can also chop up very -finely a small quantity of onion and parsley, and season with plenty of -pepper and salt. The respective quantities of floury potatoes and beaten -egg must be so regulated that you can roll the mixture into balls without -their having any tendency to break. Make the balls big enough so that when -you press them between the hands you can squeeze the ball into the shape of -an ordinary egg, or you can mould them into this shape with a tablespoon. -Now flour these imitation eggs in order to dry the surface, and then dip -them into well-beaten-up egg and cover them with dried bread-crumbs, and -fry them in a little butter or oil, or brown them in the oven, occasionally -basting them with a little butter. - - -EGGS AND SAUCE ROBERT.--Take some hard-boiled eggs, cut them into quarters, -and make them hot in some Sauce Robert--(_see_ ROBERT SAUCE)--and serve -with fried or toasted bread in a dish. - - -EGGS AND SORREL.--Make a thick puree of sorrel--(_see_ SORREL SAUCE)--and -serve some hard-boiled or poached eggs on the top. - - -EGGS, BROILED.--Cut a large slice of crumb of bread off a big loaf; toast -it lightly, put some pieces of butter on it, and put it on a dish in front -of the fire; then break some eggs carefully on to the toast, and let them -set from the heat of the fire like a joint roasting; when the side nearest -the fire gets set, it will be necessary to turn the dish round. When the -whole has set, squeeze the juice of an orange over the eggs, and a little -grated nutmeg may be added. The eggs and toast should be served in the -same dish in which they are baked. - - -EGGS, BUTTERED.--Break some eggs into a flat dish, then take a little -butter and make it hot in a frying-pan till it frizzles and begins to turn -brown. Now pour this very hot butter, which is hotter than boiling water, -over the eggs in the dish. Put the dish in the oven a short time, and -finish off setting the yolks with a red-hot salamander. - - -EGGS, SCRAMBLED.--Scrambled eggs, when finished properly, should have the -appearance of yellow and white streaks, distinct in colour, but yet all -joined together in one mass. Melt a little butter in the frying-pan, break -in some eggs, as if for frying; of course, the whites begin to set before -the yolks. As soon as the whites are nearly but not quite set, stir the -whole together till the whole mass sets. By this means you will get yellow -and white streaks joined together. It is very important that you don't let -the eggs get brown at the bottom; you will therefore require a perfectly -clean frying-pan and not too fierce a fire. - - -EGGS IN SUNSHINE.--This is a name given to fried eggs with tomato served on -the top. You want a dish that will stand the heat; consequently, take an -oval baking-tin, or enamelled dish that you can put on the top of a shut-up -stove. Melt a little butter in this, and as soon as it begins to frizzle -break some eggs into the dish, and let them all set together. As soon as -they are set, pour four or five tablespoonfuls of tomato conserve on the -top; this is much better than tomato sauce, which contains vinegar. Or you -can bake half a dozen ripe tomatoes in a tin in the oven, and place these -on the top instead of the tomato conserve. - - -EGGS AND CUCUMBER.--Peel and slice up two or three little cucumbers of the -size generally sold on a barrow at a penny each. Put these with two or -three ounces of butter in a stew-pan, and three small onions about the size -of the top of the thumb, chopped very fine; fry these and add a -dessertspoonful of vinegar. When the cucumber is tender, and a little time -has been allowed for the vinegar to evaporate, add six hard-boiled eggs, -cut into slices; make these very hot and serve. Pepper and salt must be -added. - - -EGGS WITH CHEESE.--Take a quarter of a pound of grated cheese (the cheese -should be dry and white), melt this cheese gently in a stew-pan over the -fire, with a little bit of butter about as big as the thumb, in order to -assist the cheese in melting. Mix with it a brimming teaspoonful of -chopped parsley, two or three tiny spring onions, chopped very fine, and -about a quarter of a small grated nutmeg. When the cheese is melted, add -six beaten-up eggs, and stir the whole together till they are set. Fried -or toasted bread should be served round the edge of the dish. - - -LITTLE EGGS FOR GARNISHING.--This is a nice dish when you require a lot of -white of eggs for other purposes, such as iceing a wedding-cake, or making -light vanilla or almond biscuits. - -Take six hard-boiled yolks, powder them, flavour with a little pepper and -salt, and mix in three raw yolks; mix this well together, and roll them -into shapes like very small sausages, pointed at each end like a foreign -cigar. Flour these on the outside, and throw them into boiling water. -These can be used for garnishing purposes for the vast majority of -vegetarian dishes. They can be flavoured if wished with grated nutmeg, -chopped parsley, and a few savoury herbs. - - -OMELETS.--It is a strange fact, but not the less true, that to get a -well-made omelet in a private house in this country is the exception and -not the rule. A few general remarks on making omelets will, we hope, not -be out of place in writing a book on an exceptional style of cookery, in -which omelets should play a most important part. - -First of all, we require an omelet-pan, and for this purpose the cheaper -the frying-pan the better. The best omelet-pan of all is a copper one, -tinned inside. Copper conveys heat quicker than almost any other metal; -consequently, if we use an ordinary frying-pan, the thinner it is the -quicker will heat be conveyed. - -It is very essential that the frying-pan be absolutely clean, and it will -be found almost essential to reserve the omelet-pan for omelets only. A -frying-pan that has cooked meat should not be used for the purpose; and -although in vegetarian cookery a frying-pan has not been used in this -manner, we should still avoid one in which onions or vegetables, or even -black butter has been made. The inside of an omelet-pan should always look -as if it had only just left the ironmonger's shop. - -The next great question is, how much butter should be allowed for, say, six -eggs? On this point the greatest authorities differ. We will first quote -our authorities, and then attempt to give an explanation that reconciles -the difference. A plain omelet may be roughly described as settings of -eggs well beaten up by stirring them up in hot butter. One of the oldest -cookery books we can call to mind is entitled "The Experienced English -Housekeeper," by Elizabeth Raffald. The book, which was published in 1775, -is dedicated to the Hon. Lady Elizabeth Warburton, whom the authoress -formerly served. as housekeeper. The recipe is entitled "To make an -amulet." The book states, "Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a -frying-pan, break six eggs"; Francatelli also gives four ounces of butter -to six eggs. - -On the other hand, Soyer, the great cook, gives two ounces of butter to six -eggs; so also does the equally great Louis Eustache Ude, cook to Louis XVI. - -We may add that "Cassell's Dictionary of Cookery" recommended two ounces of -butter to six eggs, whilst "Cassell's Shilling Cookery" recommends four -eggs. - -The probable reason why two such undoubtedly great authorities as Soyer and -Francatelli should differ is that in making one kind of omelet you would -use less butter than in making another. Francatelli wrote for what may be -described as that "high class cooking suited for Pall Mall clubs," where no -one better than himself knew how best to raise the jaded appetite of a -wealthy epicure. Soyer's book was written for the people. - -There are two kinds of omelets, one in which the egg is scarcely beaten at -all, and in which, when cooked, the egg appears set in long streaks. There -is also the richer omelet, which is sent to table more resembling a light -pudding. For the former of these omelets, two ounces of butter will -suffice for six eggs; for the latter of these you will require four ounces -of butter, or else the omelet will be leathery. In Holland, Belgium, and -Germany, and in country villages in France, the omelet is made, as a rule, -with six eggs to two ounces of butter. It comes up like eggs that have -been set. In the higher-class restaurants in Paris, like Bignon's, or the -Cafe Anglais, the omelet is lighter, and probably about four ounces of -butter would be used to six eggs. - -This probably explains the different directions given in various cookery -books for making omelets. - - -OMELET, PLAIN.--Melt _four_ ounces of butter in a frying-pan, heat up six -eggs _till they froth_; add a little pepper and salt, pour the beaten-up -eggs into the frying-pan as soon as the butter begins to frizzle, and with -a tablespoon keep scraping the bottom of the frying-pan in every part, not -forgetting the edge. Gradually the mixture becomes lumpy; still go on -scraping till about two-thirds or more are lumpy and the rest liquid. Now -slacken the heat slightly by lifting the frying-pan from the fire, and push -the omelet into half the frying-pan so that it is in the shape of a -semicircle. By this time, probably, it will be nearly set. Take the -frying-pan off the fire, and hold it in a slanting direction in front of -the fire. When the whole is set, as it will quickly do, slide off the -omelet from the frying-pan on to a hot dish with an egg-slice, and serve. - - -OMELET, PLAIN (ANOTHER WAY).--Put _two_ ounces of butter into a frying-pan, -break six eggs into a basin with a little pepper and salt, _and beat them -very slightly_, so that the yolks and whites are quite mixed into one, but -do not beat them more than you can help, and _do not let the eggs froth_. -As soon as the butter frizzles, pour in the beaten eggs, scrape the -frying-pan quickly with a spoon in every part till the mixture gets lumpy. -Now slacken the heat if the fire is fierce, and let the mixture set in the -frying-pan like a pancake. As soon as it is nearly set, with perhaps only -a dessertspoonful of liquid left unset, turn the omelet over, one half on -to the other half, in the shape of a semicircle, and bring the spoonful of -unset fluid to join them over the edge. Slide off the omelet on to a hot -dish with an egg-slice. - - -OMELET WITH FINE HERBS.--Chop up a dessertspoonful of parsley, and add a -good pinch of powdered savoury herbs, add these with pepper and salt to the -six beaten-up eggs in a basin. Beat up the eggs, either slightly or very -thoroughly, according to whether you use two ounces of butter or four. -Proceed in every respect, in making the omelet, as directed for plain -omelet above. - - -OMELET WITH ONION.--Proceed exactly as in the above recipe, only adding to -the chopped parsley a piece of onion or shallot about as big as the top of -the thumb down to the first joint, also very finely chopped. When onion is -used in making an omelet a little extra pepper should be added. - - -OMELET WITH CHEESE.--Proceed as if making an ordinary omelet, with four -ounces of butter. Add to the six well beaten-up eggs about four ounces of -grated Parmesan cheese; a small quantity of cream will be found a great -improvement to this omelet. A little pepper and salt must, of course, be -added as well. - - -POTATO OMELET.--Mix three ounces of a floury potato with six eggs, a little -pepper and salt, and half a pint of milk, and make the milk boil and then -stand for a couple of minutes before it is mixed with the eggs; pour this -mixture into three or four ounces of butter, and proceed as in making an -ordinary omelet. - - -POTATO OMELET, SWEET.--Proceed exactly as above, only instead of adding -pepper and salt mix in a brimming tablespoonful of finely powdered sugar, -the juice of a lemon, with half a grated nutmeg. - - -CHEESE SOUFFLE.--To make a small cheese souffle in a round cake-tin, -proceed as follows:--Make the tin very hot in the oven. Put in about an -ounce of butter, so as to make the tin oily in every part inside. The tin -must be tilted so that the butter pours round the sides of the tin as well -as the bottom. Take two eggs, separate the yolks from the whites, and beat -the whites to a stiff froth; beat up the two yolks very thoroughly with a -quarter of a pint of milk. Add to this two tablespoonfuls of grated -Parmesan cheese; add this mixture to the beaten-up whites, and mix the -whole carefully together. Now pour this mixture into the hot buttered tin, -which should be five or six inches deep, and bake it in the oven. The -mixture will rise to five or six times its original depth. As soon as it -is done, run with the souffle from the oven door to the dining-room door. -However quick you may be, the souffle will probably sink an inch on the -way. Some cooks wrap hot flannel on the outside of the tin to keep up the -heat. If you have a folded dinner napkin round the tin for appearance -sake, as is usually the case, fold the napkin before you make the souffle, -and make the napkin sufficiently big round that it can be dropped over the -tin in an instant. The napkin should be pinned, and be quite half an inch -in diameter bigger than the width of the tin. This is to save time. Delay -in serving the souffle is fatal. - - -OMELET SOUFFLE, SWEET.--In making an omelet souffle, sweet, you can proceed -in exactly the same manner as making a cheese souffle, with the exception -that you add two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar instead of two -tablespoonfuls of grated cheese. The omelet will, however, require -flavouring of some kind, the two most delicate being vanilla and -orange-flower water. You can flavour it with lemon by rubbing a few lumps -of sugar on the outside of a lemon, and then pounding this with the -powdered sugar. It must be pounded very thoroughly and mixed very -carefully, or else one part of the omelet will taste stronger of lemon than -the other. Some powdered sugar should be shaken over the top of the -souffle just before serving. - - -OMELET SOUFFLE (ANOTHER WAY).--When a souffle is made on a larger scale, -and served up on a flat dish, it is best to proceed as follows:--Take six -ounces of powdered sugar, and mix them with six yolks of eggs and a -dessertspoonful of flour and a pinch of salt. To this must be added -whatever flavouring is used, such as vanilla. This is all mixed together -till it is perfectly smooth. Next beat the six whites to a very stiff -froth; mix this in with the batter lightly, put two ounces of butter into -an omelet-pan, and as soon as the butter begins to frizzle pour in the -mixture. As it begins to set round the edges, turn it over and heap it up -in the middle, and then slide the omelet off on to a plated-edged baking -dish, which must be well buttered. Put it in the oven for about a quarter -of an hour, to let it rise, shake some powdered sugar over the top, and -serve very quickly. - - -OMELET, SWEET.--Make an ordinary plain omelet with six eggs and either two -or four ounces of butter, as directed for making omelet, plain. Instead of -adding pepper and salt to the beaten-up eggs, add one or two tablespoonfuls -of finely powdered sugar. At the last moment, sprinkle a little powdered -sugar over the omelet, and just glaze the sugar with a red-hot salamander. - - -OMELET WITH JAM.--Make a plain sweet omelet as directed above, adding -rather less sugar--about half. If you make the omelet with two ounces of -butter, and turn it over, put a couple of tablespoonfuls of jam on the -omelet, and turn the half over the jam. It is best to put the jam in the -oven for a minute or two to take the chill off. - -If you make the omelet with four ounces of butter, you must put the jam by -the side of the omelet and let the thin part of the omelet cover it. Of -course, the question what jam is best for sweet omelet is purely a matter -of taste. Most good judges consider that apricot jam is the best, and if -the sweet omelet itself be flavoured with a little essence of vanilla, the -result is generally considered one of the nicest sweets that can be sent to -table. Strawberry jam, especially if some of the strawberries are whole, -is also very nice. The objection to raspberry jam is the pips. - -A most delicious omelet can be made by chopping up some preserved slices of -pine-apple, and placing this in the omelet, and making the pine-apple syrup -hot and pouring it round the base. Red-currant jelly, black-currant jam, -and plum jam can all be used. One of the cheapest and, in the opinion of -many, the best sweet omelets can be made with six eggs, two ounces of -butter, and three or four tablespoonfuls of orange marmalade. In this case -it will cost no more to rub a few lumps of sugar on the outside of an -orange, and pound these with the powdered sugar you use to sweeten the -omelet. If the marmalade is liquid, as it often is, one or two -tablespoonfuls of the juice can be poured round the edge of the omelet. - - -OMELET AU RHUM.--As a rule, spirits are not allowed in vegetarian cookery. -An omelet au rhum is simply a sweet omelet, plain, with plenty of powdered -sugar sprinkled over the top, with some rum ignited poured over it just -before it is sent to table. The way to ignite the rum is to fill a large -spoon, like a gravy-spoon, and hold a lighted wooden taper (not wax; it -tastes) underneath the spoon till the rum lights. The dish should be hot. -It may be a consolation to teetotallers to reflect that the fact of burning -the rum causes all the alcohol to evaporate, and there is nothing left but -the flavour. - - -OMELET AU KIRSCH.--Proceed as above, substituting Kirschenwasser for Rum. - - -OMELET, VEGETABLE.--A plain omelet can also be served with any puree of -vegetables, so that we can have--Asparagus Omelet, Artichoke Omelet, French -Bean Omelet, Celery Omelet, Spinach Omelet, Mushroom Omelet, Tomato Omelet, -&c. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -SALADS AND SANDWICHES. - - -SALADS AND SANDWICHES.--Probably the most patriotic Englishman will admit -that, on the subject of salads, we can learn something from the French. -During the last half-century a great improvement has taken place on this -point in this country. Many years ago it was the fashion to dress an -English lettuce, resembling in shape an old umbrella, with a mixture of -brown sugar, milk, mustard, and even anchovy and Worcester sauce, and then -add a few drops of oil, as if it were some dangerous poison, like prussic -acid, not to be tampered with lightly. The old-fashioned lettuces were so -hard and crisp that it was difficult to chew them without making a noise -somewhat similar to walking on a shingly beach. In modern days, however, -we have arrived at a stage of civilisation in which, as a rule, we use soft -French lettuces instead of the hard gingham-shaped vegetables which somehow -or other our grandfathers ate for supper with a whole lobster, seasoned -with about half a pint of vinegar, and then slept none the worse for the -performance. The first point for consideration, if we wish to have a good -salad, is to have the lettuces crisp and dry. Old-fashioned French -cookery-books direct that the lettuce should never be washed. The stalks -should be cut off, the outside leaves removed and thrown away, and the -lettuce itself should then be pulled in pieces with the fingers, and each -piece wiped with a clean cloth. This is not always practicable, but the -principle remains the same. You can wash the lettuce leaves without -bruising them. You can dry them by shaking them up lightly in a large -clean cloth, and you can spread them out and let them get _dry_ an hour or -two before they are dressed. - -Another important point to be borne in mind is that a salad should never be -dressed till just before it is wanted to be eaten. If by chance you put by -the remains of a dressed salad, it is good for nothing the next morning. -Finally, the oil must be pure olive oil of the best quality, and to ensure -this it should bear the name of some well-known firm. A good deal of the -oil sold simply as salad oil, bearing no name, is adulterated, sometimes -with cotton-seed oil. - - -SALAD, FRENCH LETTUCE, PLAIN.--Clean one or more French lettuces (throw -away all the leaves that are decayed or bruised), place these in a -salad-bowl, and, supposing we have sufficient for two persons, dress the -salad as follows:--Put a saltspoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of -pepper into a tablespoon. Fill the tablespoon up with oil, stir the pepper -and salt up with a fork, and pour it over the lettuce. Now add another -tablespoonful of oil, and then toss the lettuce leaves lightly together -with a spoon and fork. Allow one tablespoonful of oil to each person. -This salad would suffice for two. Be sure and mix the lettuce and oil well -together before you add any vinegar. The reason of this is that if you add -the vinegar first it would soak into the lettuce leaves, making one part -more acid than another. Having well mixed up the lettuce and oil, add half -a tablespoonful of vinegar. Mix it once more, and the salad is dressed. - -In France they always add to the lettuce, before it is dressed, two or -three finely chopped fresh tarragon leaves. Dried tarragon can be used, -but it is not equal to fresh. If you have no tarragon it is a great -improvement to use tarragon vinegar instead of ordinary vinegar. Tarragon -vinegar is sold by all grocers at sixpence per bottle. - -It is also often customary to rub the salad-bowl with a bead of garlic, or -rub a piece of crust of bread with garlic, and toss this piece of crust up -with the salad after it has been dressed. Garlic should never be chopped -up, but only used as stated above. - -A good French salad is also always decorated with one or more hard-boiled -eggs, cut into quarters, longways. These are placed on the top of the -lettuce. - - -SALAD, ENGLISH, LETTUCE.--The ordinary English salad is made either with -French or English lettuces, and is generally dressed as follows:--One or -two tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, a teaspoonful of made mustard, two -tablespoonfuls of vinegar, pepper, and salt. There are many people still -living in remote parts of the country who prefer this style of dressing. - - -SALAD, ENGLISH, MIXED.--The old-fashioned English _mixed_ salad generally -consisted of English lettuce cut up into strips crossways, to which was -added mustard and cress, boiled beetroot, chopped celery, spring onions, -radishes, and watercress. It is by no means a bad mixture when dressed -with oil, and, of course, it can be dressed it a l'Anglaise. It makes an -excellent accompaniment to a huge hunk of cheese, a crusty loaf, a good -appetite, and a better digestion. - - -SALAD, MAYONNAISE.--This is generally considered the king of salads, and it -can be made an exceedingly pretty-looking dish, Take two or more French -lettuces, clean and dry them as directed above, and take the small heart of -one lettuce about the size of a small walnut, uncut from the stalk, so that -you can stand it upright in the middle of the salad, raised above the -surface. Arrange all the softer parts of the leaves on the top of the -salad so as to make as much as possible a smooth surface. Make some -Mayonnaise sauce, thick enough to be spread like butter, and mask this -little mound and all the surface of the middle of the salad round it with a -thin layer of the sauce, so that it looks like the top of a mould of solid -custard. Ornament the edge of the salad with hard-boiled eggs cut in -quarters, and place between the quarters slices of pickled gherkins and -stoned olives. Take a small teaspoonful of French capers, dry them on a -cloth, and sprinkle a few of them about an inch apart on the white surface. -Next chop up, very finely, about half a teaspoonful of parsley, and see -that this doesn't stick together in lumps. Place this on the end of a -knife and flip the knife so that the little green specks of parsley fall on -the white surface. Next take about half a saltspoonful of finely crumbled -bread, and shake these in a saucer with one or two drops of cochineal. -This will colour them a bright red, and they will have all the appearance -of lobster-coral. Place these red bread-crumbs on the end of a knife and -let them fall over the white surface like the parsley. The little red and -green specks on the white background make the dish look exceedingly pretty. -Before mixing the salad all together add a tablespoonful of tarragon -vinegar or lemon-juice. - - -TOMATO SALAD.--For making tomato salad you require red, ripe tomatoes; the -smoother they are the better, but the chief points are--very ripe and very -red. Never use those pink, crinkly tomatoes which look something like milk -stained with plum juice. If tomatoes are picked unripe, and then allowed -to ripen afterwards, they become rotten and worthless. Slice up half a -dozen or more tomatoes--sometimes it will be necessary to remove the core -and pips, sometimes not; add a little oil, a little vinegar, and some -pepper and salt. Tomato salad is one of the few that are very nice without -any oil at all. Of course, this is a matter of taste. Some persons slice -up a few onions and add to the tomatoes. In addition to this you can add -some slices of cold potatoes. In this latter case, heap the potatoes up in -the middle of the dish in the shape of a dome sprinkle some chopped parsley -over the potatoes, put a border of sliced onion round the base, and then a -border of sliced tomato outside that. This makes the dish look pretty. - -Many persons rub the dish or salad-bowl with a bead of garlic. This is -quite sufficient to flavour the salad; but never _chop_ garlic for salads. - - -EGG SALAD.--Egg salad consists of an ordinary salad made with French -lettuces, with an extra quantity of hard-boiled eggs. If you want to make -the salad look very pretty on the top, cut up the lettuces and dress them -with oil and vinegar in the ordinary way. Make the tops of the lettuces -(which should be placed in a round salad-bowl) as smooth as you can without -pressing them down unnecessarily. Now take six hard-boiled eggs, separate -the yolks from the whites, powder the yolks, and chop up the whites small. -Sprinkle a ring of yellow round the edge of the salad-bowl, say an inch in -width, then put a ring of white round, and place the remainder of yolk in -the middle, almost up to the centre. Have the centre about two inches in -diameter. We now have a yellow centre surrounded by a broad white rim (as, -of course, there is more white than yellow), and an outside yellow ring, -which meets the white china bowl. Reserve about a teaspoonful of pieces of -finely chopped white, and put them in a saucer, with a few drops of -cochineal, and shake them. This turns them a bright red. Sprinkle these -red specks _very sparingly_ on the white, and take about half a teaspoonful -of chopped blanched parsley, and sprinkle these green specks on the yellow. -This makes the dish look pretty. - - -GERMAN SALAD.--German salad is made from cold boiled vegetables chopped up. -In Germany, it is made, according to English ideas, from every vegetable -you have ever heard of, mixed with a number of vegetables you have never -heard of. In England it can be made by chopping up boiled carrot, turnip, -cabbage, cauliflower, potato, French beans, Brussels sprouts (whole), -celery, raw onion, raw apple, &c. In fact, in making this vegetable salad -the motto should be "the more the merrier." In addition to this you will -find that they add what is known as _sauer kraut_. This latter is not -adapted, as a rule, to English palates. The salad is mixed with oil and -vinegar in the ordinary way, the Germans adding much more vinegar than we -should care for in this country. The salad is decorated at the finish with -boiled beet-root. It is very pretty to cut the beet-root into triangles, -the base of the triangle touching the edge of the salad-bowl, the point of -the triangle pointing inwards. Gut a star out of a good slice of -beet-root, and place it in the centre of the bowl; sprinkle a little -chopped blanched parsley over the surface of the mixed vegetables. - - -ENDIVE SALAD.--Endives come into season long before lettuces, and are much -used abroad for making salads. The drawback to endive is that it is tough, -and the simple remedy is to boil it. Take three or four white-heart -endives, throw them into boiling water slightly salted. When they get -tender take them out and instantly throw them into cold water, by which -means you preserve their colour. When quite cold, take them out again, -drain them, dry them thoroughly, and pull them to pieces with the fingers. -Now place them in a salad-bowl, keeping the whitest part as much as -possible at the top. Place some hard-boiled eggs round the edge, and -sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over the white endive. You can, -if you like, put a few spikes of red beet-root between the quarters of -eggs. - -It is a great improvement to rub the salad-bowl with a bead of garlic, or -you can rub a crust of bread with a bead of garlic, and toss this lightly -about in the salad when you mix it. - - -SALSIFY SALAD.--Boiled salsify makes a very delicious salad. Take some -white salsify, scrape it, and instantly throw it into vinegar and water, by -which means you will keep it a pure white. Then, when you have all ready, -throw it into boiling water, slightly salted, boil it till it is tender, -throw it into cold water, and when cold take it out, drain it and dry it, -cut it up into small half-inch pieces (or put it in whole, in sticks, into -a salad-bowl), sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over the top, -dress in the ordinary way with oil and white French vinegar, and be sure to -use white pepper, not black, if white wine vinegar is objected to, the -juice of a hard fresh lemon is equally good, if not better. - - -POTATO SALAD.--Potato salad is generally made from the remains of cold -boiled potatoes. Of course, potatoes can be boiled on purpose, in which -case they should be allowed to get cold in the water in which they were -boiled. New potatoes are far better for the purpose than old. Cut the -potatoes into slices, and place them in a salad-bowl with a little finely -chopped blanched parsley. You can also add some finely chopped onion or -shallot. If you do not add these you can rub the bowl with a bead of -garlic. Sprinkle some more chopped parsley over the top of the salad and -ornament the edge of the bowl with some thin slices of pickled gherkins. A -few stoned olives can also be added. Dress the salad with oil and vinegar -in the ordinary way. - - -ASPARAGUS SALAD.--Cold asparagus makes a most delicious salad. It is -needless, perhaps, to say it is made from cold boiled asparagus. The best -dressing for asparagus salad is somewhat peculiar, and is made as -follows:--Take, say, an ounce of butter, put it in a saucer, and melt it in -the oven till it is like oil. Now mix in a teaspoonful of made mustard, -some pepper, salt, and a dessertspoonful of vinegar. Stir it all together, -and as it gets cold it will begin to get thick. Dip all the green part of -the asparagus in this, and lay the heads gently, without breaking them, in -a vegetable dish, with the white stalk resting on the edge of the dish, and -the green part in the middle. Let the salad get perfectly cold, and then -serve. Of course, the sauce clings to the asparagus. The asparagus is -eaten with the fingers like hot asparagus--a custom now generally -recognised. - - -ARTICHOKE SALAD.--This applies to French artichokes, not Jerusalem. In -France, artichokes are often served raw for breakfast, on a plate, with a -little heap of chopped raw onion and another heap of chopped capers or -parsley. The Frenchman mixes a little oil or vinegar on his plate, adding -the onion, &c., according to his taste. The leaves are pulled off one by -one, the white stalk part dipped in this dressing, and then eaten, by being -drawn through the teeth. The artichoke bottom is reserved for the finish -as a _bon bouche_, something like a schoolboy who will eat all the pastry -round a jam tart, leaving the centre for the _finale_. - - -BEET-ROOT SALAD.--In boiling beet-roots be careful not to break them, or -else they will bleed and lose their colour. When the beet-root is boiled -and cold, peel it, and cut it into thin slices. It can be dressed with oil -and vinegar, or vinegar only, adding pepper and salt. Some persons dress -beet-root with a salad-dressing in which cream is used instead of oil; but -never use cream _and_ oil. To mix cream and oil is like mixing bacon with -butter. - - -CUCUMBER SALAD.--Peel a cucumber and cut it into slices as thin as -possible. We might almost add, thinner if possible. Mix it with a little -salt, and let it stand, tossing the cucumber about every now and then. By -this means you extract all the water from the cucumber. Drain off this -water, and add plenty of oil to the cucumber, and then mix it so that every -slice comes in contact with the oil. Now add a little pepper, and a very -little vinegar, and mix it thoroughly. If you add vinegar to cucumber -before the oil some of the slices will taste like sour pickle, as the -vinegar soaks into the cucumber. Cucumber should be always served very -cold, and is best placed in an ice-chest for an hour before serving. Some -people put a piece of ice on the top of the cucumber. - - -FRENCH BEAN SALAD.--Cold boiled French beans make a very nice salad. A -little chopped parsley should be mixed with them, and the salad-bowl can be -rubbed with a bead of garlic. Some people soak the beans in vinegar first, -and then add oil. This would suit a German palate. A better plan is to -add the oil first, with pepper and salt, mix all well together, and then -add the vinegar. - - -BEAN SALAD.--Cold boiled broad beans make a very nice salad. Rub off the -skins so that only the green part is put in the salad-bowl. Rub the bowl -with garlic, add a little chopped parsley, then oil, pepper and salt, mix -well, and add vinegar last of all. - - -HARICOT BEAN SALAD.--This can be made from cold, boiled, dried white -haricot beans. Add plenty of chopped parsley, rub the bowl with garlic, -mix oil, pepper and salt first, vinegar afterwards. - - * * * * * - -The nicest haricot bean salad is made from the fresh green beans met with -abroad. They can be obtained in this country in tins, and a delicious -salad can be had at a moment's notice by opening a tin, straining off the -liquor, and drying the little green beans, which are very soft and tender, -and dressing them with oil and vinegar, in the ordinary way. A little -chopped parsley, or garlic flavouring by rubbing the bowl, can be added or -not, according to taste. - - -CELERY AND BEET-ROOT SALAD.--A mixture of celery and beet-root makes a very -nice winter salad. The beet-root, of course, is boiled, and the celery -generally sliced up thin in a raw state. It is a great improvement to boil -the celery till it is _nearly_ tender. By this means you improve the -salad, and the celery assists in making vegetarian stock. - -WATER-CRESS.--Water-cress is sometimes mixed with other salad, but when -eaten alone requires no dressing, but only a little salt. - - -DANDELION LEAF SALAD.--Considering that the root of the dandelion is so -largely used in medicine for making taraxacum, it is to be regretted that -the leaves of the plant are not utilised in this country as they are abroad -for making salad. These leaves can be obtained in London at a few shops in -the French colony of Soho. The leaves are washed, dried, placed in a -salad-bowl, and dressed with oil and vinegar in the ordinary way. - -CAULIFLOWER SALAD.--The remains of a cold boiled cauliflower makes a very -good salad if only the white part be used. It can be mixed with remains of -cold potatoes, some chopped blanched parsley should be sprinkled over the -top, and it can be dressed with oil and vinegar in the ordinary way; or it -can be served up with a sauce made from oiled butter similar to that -described for dressing cold asparagus. - - -MUSTARD AND CRESS.--This is somewhat similar to watercress. When served -alone it is generally dipped in salt and eaten with bread-and-butter, but -it is very useful to mix with other kinds of salad. - - -HOP SALAD.--In Germany a very nice salad is made from young hops, which are -grown very extensively in America and Germany, as English brewers are well -aware. The hops are picked when quite young, before they get leafy; they -are then boiled till nearly tender. They can be dressed in the English -fashion with oil and vinegar, or in the German fashion with vinegar and -sugar. - - -ONION SALAD.--Few people are aware of what an excellent salad can be made -from the remains of cold boiled Spanish onions. Spanish onions can -generally be bought at a penny a pound. They are mild in flavour, very -wholesome, and contain a great deal of nourishment. Take a couple of cold -boiled Spanish onions, pull them into leaves after they are quite dry, and -dress them with a very little oil and vinegar. - - -ITALIAN SALAD.--This is a very delicious salad, met with in Italy. It -consists of a great variety of boiled vegetables, which are placed in a -mould and served in aspic jelly. This latter, however, is not allowed in -vegetarian cookery. A very good imitation, however, can be made as -follows:--First take as many cold vegetables as you can, consisting of new -potatoes, sliced, and cut up with a cutter into pretty-looking shapes. You -can also take green peas, asparagus tops, cold boiled cauliflower, French -beans, beet-root, &c. These vegetables should be dressed with a little -oil, tarragon vinegar, pepper and salt, and can be placed in a mould or -plain round basin. This basin can now be filled up with a little water -thickened with corn-flour, hot. When it is cold, it can be turned out and -sent to table in the shape of a mould. - - -MELON SALAD.--Melon is sometimes served abroad as a salad, and a slice of -melon is often sent to table at the commencement of dinner, to be eaten -with a little salt, cayenne pepper, and sometimes oil and vinegar. - - -SALADS, SWEET.--Apples, oranges, currants, pine-apple, and bananas are -sometimes served as salads with syrup and sugar. They make a very nice -mixture, or can be served separately. When preserved pine-apples in tins -are used for the purpose, the syrup in the tin should be used for dressing -the salad. Whole ripe strawberries are a great improvement, as also a -wineglassful of brandy and a lump of ice. - - -SANDWICHES.--There is an art in cutting sandwiches--a fact which persons in -the habit of frequenting railway restaurants will hardly realise. A tinned -loaf is best for the purpose if we wish to avoid waste. The great thing is -to have the two slices of bread to fit together neatly, and there is no -occasion to cut off the crusts when made from a well-rasped tin loaf. -First cut off the crust from the top of the loaf, which, of course, must be -used for some other purpose. The best use for this top slice is to toast -it lightly on the crumby side, and cut it up into little pieces to be -served with soup. Next take the loaf, cut off one thin slice, evenly, and -let it fall on its back on the board you are using. Now butter very -slightly the upper surface. Next butter the top of the loaf, cut another -thin slice, and, of course, these two pieces of bread will be perfectly -level, and, if the two buttered sides be placed together, will fit round -the edge exactly. - - -TOMATO SANDWICHES.--Cut some very ripe red tomatoes into thin slices, and -cut them parallel with the core, as otherwise you will get them in rings -from which the core will drop out. Sprinkle some thin slices of -bread-and-butter with mustard and cress, dip the slices of tomato into a -dressing made with a little oil, pepper, and salt, well mixed up. Put -these between the bread-and-butter, and cut them into squares or triangles -with a very sharp knife. These sandwiches are very cool and refreshing, -and make a most agreeable supper after a hot and crowded ball-room. If you -wish to have them look pretty, pile them up in the centre of a silver dish, -and place a few ripe red tomatoes round the base on some bright green -parsley. Place the dish in an ice-chest for an hour before it is eaten. - - -MUSTARD AND CRESS SANDWICHES.--Place well-washed and dried mustard and -cress between two slices of bread-and-butter, and trim the edges. It is -best to pepper and salt the bread-and-butter first. Pile up the sandwiches -on a silver dish, and sprinkle some loose mustard and cress round the base. - - -EGG SANDWICHES.--Cut some hard-boiled eggs into very thin slices; season -them with pepper and salt, and place them between two slices of thin -bread-and-butter; cut the sandwiches into triangles or squares, pile them -up in a silver dish, place plenty of fresh green parsley round the base of -the dish, and place some hard-boiled eggs, cut in halves, on the parsley, -which will show what the sandwiches are composed of. - - -INDIAN SANDWICHES.--These are exactly similar to the above, with the -addition that the slices of hard-boiled eggs are seasoned with a little -curry-powder. If hard-boiled eggs in halves are placed round the base of -the dish, each half-egg should be sprinkled with curry-powder in order to -show what the sandwiches are. - - -MUSHROOM SANDWICHES.--Take a pint of fresh button mushrooms, peel them, and -throw them into lemon-juice and water, in order to preserve their colour; -or else take the contents of a tin of mushrooms, chop them up and stew them -in a frying-pan very gently with a little butter, pepper, salt, a pinch of -thyme, and the juice of a whole lemon to every pint of mushrooms. When -tender, rub the mixture through a wise sieve while the butter is warm and -the mixture moist. Add a teaspoonful of finely chopped blanched parsley, -spread this mixture while still warm on a thin slice of bread, and cover it -over with another thin slice of bread, and press the two slices of bread -together. When the mixture gets quite cold, the butter will set and the -sandwiches get quite firm. The bread need not be buttered, as the mixture -contains butter enough. Pile these sandwiches up on a silver dish, -surround the dish with plenty of fresh parsley, and place a few fresh -mushrooms whole, stalk and all, round them, as if they are growing out of -the parsley. - - -CHEESE SANDWICHES.--Oil a little butter, add some pepper and salt, and a -spoonful of made mustard and a pinch of cayenne pepper. When this mixture -is nearly cold, use it for buttering some thin slices of bread, and, before -it is quite cold, sprinkle them with some grated Parmesan cheese. Put the -two slices of bread together and press them, and, when cold,. cut them -into squares or triangles. Place plenty of fresh green parsley round the -dish, and, if you are using hard-boiled eggs for other purposes, take the -end of the white of egg, which has a little cup in it not much bigger than -the top of the finger, and put a little heap of Parmesan cheese in each -cup. Place a few of these round the base of the dish, on the parsley, in -order to show what the sandwiches are composed of. - - -CREAM-CHEESE SANDWICHES.--Chop up some of the white part of a head of -celery very fine, and pound it in a mortar with a little butter; season it -with some salt. Use this mixture and butter some thin slices of bread, -place a thin slice of cream cheese between these slices, cut the sandwiches -into squares or triangles with a very sharp knife, and pile the sandwiches -up on a silver dish. Surround the dish with parsley, and place a few -slices of cream-cheese, cut round the size of a halfpenny, round the base, -stick a little piece of the yellowish-white leaves of the heart of celery -in each piece. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -SAVOURY DISHES. - -MUSHROOMS. - - -In many parts of the country mushrooms grow so plentifully that their cost -may be considered almost nothing. On the other hand, if they have to be -bought fresh, at certain seasons of the year they are very expensive, while -tinned mushrooms, which can always be depended upon, cannot be regarded in -any other light than that of a luxury. - -When mushrooms can be gathered in the fields like black-berries they are a -great boon to vegetarians. Of course, great care must be taken that only -genuine mushrooms are picked, as there have been some terrible instances of -poisoning from fungi being gathered by mistake, as many Cockney tourists -know to their cost. As a rule, in England all mushrooms bought in markets -can be depended upon. In France, where mushrooms are very plentiful, an -inspector is appointed in every market, and no mushrooms are allowed to be -sold unless they have first received his sanction. This is a wise -precaution in the right direction. - -One important word of warning before leaving the subject. Mushrooms should -be eaten _freshly gathered_, and, if allowed to get stale, those which were -perfectly wholesome when fresh picked become absolutely poisonous. The -symptoms are somewhat similar to narcotic poisoning. This particularly -applies to the larger and coarser kind that give out black juice. - -MUSHROOMS, PLAIN, GRILLED.--The larger kinds of mushrooms are best for the -purpose. The flat mushrooms should be washed, dried, and peeled. They are -then cooked slowly over a clear fire, and a small wire gridiron, like those -sold at a penny or twopence each, is better adapted for the purpose than -the ordinary gridiron used for grilling steak. The gridiron should be kept -high above the fire. The mushrooms should be dipped in oil, or oiled -butter, and care should be taken that they do not stick to the bars. They -should be served very hot, with pepper and salt and a squeeze of -lemon-juice. - -MUSHROOMS, FRIED.--When mushrooms are very small they are more easily fried -than grilled. They should be washed, dried and peeled, placed in a -frying-pan, with a little butter, pepper and salt, and cooked till tender. -They are very nice served on toast, and the butter in which they are cooked -can be poured on the toast first, and the mushrooms arranged on the top -afterwards. A squeeze of lemon-juice is an improvement. - -MUSHROOMS AU GRATIN.--This is a very delicious dish, and is often served as -an entree at first-class dinners. They are made from what are known as cup -mushrooms. It is best to pick mushrooms, as far as possible, the same -size, the cup being about two inches in diameter. Peel the mushrooms very -carefully, without breaking them, cut out the stalks close down with a -spoon, scoop out the inside of the cup, so as to make it hollow. Now peel -the stalks and chop them up with all the scooped part of the mushroom, -with, supposing we are making ten cups, a piece of onion as big as the top -of the thumb down to the first joint. To this add a brimming teaspoonful -of chopped parsley, or even a little more, a saltspoonful of dried thyme, -or half this quantity of fresh thyme. Fry all this in a frying-pan, in a -little butter. The aroma is delicious. Then add sufficient dried -bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a wire sieve to make the whole -into a moist paste, fill each of the cups with this mixture so that the top -is as convex as the cup of the mushroom, having first seasoned the mixture -with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice. Shake some fine -bread-raspings over the top so as to make them of a nice golden-brown -colour, pour a little drop of oil into a baking-tin, place the mushrooms in -it, and bake them gently in an oven till the cup part of the mushroom -becomes soft and tender, but take care they do not cook till they break. -Now take them out carefully with an egg-slice, and place them on a dish--a -silver dish is best for the purpose-and place some nice, crisp, fried -parsley round the edge. - - -MUSHROOMS A LA BORDELAISE.--This, as the name implies, is a French recipe. -It consists of ordinary grilled mushrooms, served in a sauce composed of -oil or oiled butter, chopped up with parsley and garlic, thickened with the -yolks of eggs. - -MUSHROOMS A LA PROVENCALE.--This is an Italian recipe. You must first -wash, peel, and dry the mushrooms, and then soak them for some time in what -is called a _marinade_, which is another word for pickle, of oil mixed with -chopped garlic, pepper, and salt. They are then stewed in oil with plenty -of chopped parsley over rather a brisk fire. Squeeze, a little lemon-juice -over them and serve them in a dish surrounded with a little fried or -toasted bread. - - -MUSHROOM FORCEMEAT.--The mushrooms after being cleaned should be chopped up -and fried in a little butter; lemon-juice should be added before they are -chopped in order to preserve their colour. One or two hard-boiled yolks of -eggs can be added to the mixture, and the whole rubbed through a wire sieve -while hot. When the mixture is hot it should be moist, but, of course, -when it gets cold, owing to the butter it will be hard. This mushroom -forcemeat can be used for a variety of purposes. - - -MUSHROOM PIE.--Wash, dry, and peel some mushrooms, and cut them into slices -with an equal quantity of cut-up potatoes. Bake these in a pie, having -first moistened the potatoes and mushrooms in a little butter. Add pepper -and salt and a small pinch of thyme. Cover them with a little water and -put some paste over the dish in the ordinary way. It is a great -improvement, after the pie is baked, to pour in some essence of mushrooms -made from stewing the stalks and peelings in a little water. A single -onion should be put in with them. - - -MUSHROOM PIE, COLD.--Prepare the mushrooms, potatoes, and essence of -mushroom as directed above, adding a little chopped parsley. Bake all -these in the dish before you cover with paste, add also an extra seasoning -of pepper. When the mushrooms and potatoes are perfectly tender, strain -off all the juice or gravy, and thicken it with corn-flour; put this back -in the pie-dish and mix all well together, and pile it up in the middle of -the dish so that the centre is raised above the edge. Let this get quite -cold, then cover it with puff-paste, and as soon as the pastry is done take -it out of the oven and let the pie get cold. This can now be cut in -slices. - - -MUSHROOM PUDDING.--Make a mixture of mushrooms, potatoes, &c., exactly -similar to that for making a pie. Place this in a basin with only -sufficient water to moisten the ingredients, cover the basin with -bread-crumbs soaked in milk, and steam the basin in the ordinary way. - - -TOMATOES, GRILLED.--What is necessary is a clear fire and a gridiron in -which the bars are not too far apart. The disputed point is, should the -tomatoes be grilled whole or cut in half? This may be considered a matter -of taste, but personally we prefer them grilled whole. Moisten the tomato -in a little oil or oiled butter, and grill them carefully, as they are apt -to break. Grilled tomatoes are very nice with plain boiled macaroni, or -can be served up on boiled rice. - - -TOMATOES, BAKED.--Place the tomatoes in a tin with a little butter, and -occasionally baste them with the butter. When they are tender, they can be -served either plain or with boiled macaroni or rice. The butter and juice -in the tin should be poured over them. - - -TOMATOES, FRIED.--Place the tomatoes in a frying-pan with a little butter, -and fry them until they are tender. Pour the contents of the frying-pan -over them, serve plain, or with macaroni or rice. - - -TOMATOES, STEWED.--Take half a dozen good-sized tomatoes, and chop up very -finely one onion about the same size as the tomatoes. Moisten the bottom -of a stew-pan with a little butter, and sprinkle the chopped onion over the -tomatoes. Add a dessertspoonful of water; place the lid on the stewpan, -which ought to fit tightly. It is best to put a weight on the lid of the -stew-pan, such as a flat-iron. Place the stew-pan on the fire, and let -them steam till they are tender. They are cooked this way in Spain and -Portugal, and very often chopped garlic is used instead of onion. - - -TOMATOES AU GRATIN.--Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, cut off the stalks, and -squeeze out time juice and pips. Next take a few mushrooms and make a -mixture exactly similar to that which was used to fill the inside of -Mushrooms au gratin. Fill each tomato with some of this mixture, so that -it assumes its original shape and tight skin. The top or hole where the -stalk was cut out will probably be about the size of a shilling or -halfpenny. Shake some bright-coloured bread raspings over this spot -without letting them fall on the red tomato. In order to do this, cut a -round hole the right size in a stiff piece of paper. Place the tomatoes in -a stew-pan or a baking-dish in the oven, moistened with a little oil. The -oil should be about the eighth of an inch deep. Stew or bake the tomatoes -till they are tender, and then take them out carefully with an egg-slice, -and serve them surrounded with fried parsley. If placed in a silver dish -this has a very pretty appearance. - - -TOMATO PIE.--Slice up an equal number of ripe tomatoes and potatoes. Place -them in a pie-dish with enough oiled butter to moisten them. Add a -brimming teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a pinch of thyme, pepper, and -salts and, if possible, a few peeled mushrooms, which will be found to be a -very great improvement. Cover the pie with paste, and bake in the oven. - - -TOMATO PIE (ANOTHER WAY).--Proceed as in making an ordinary potato pie. -Add a small bottle of tomato conserve, cover with paste, and bake in the -ordinary way. - - -POTATO PIE.--Peel and slice up some potatoes as thin as possible. At the -same time slice up some onions. If Spanish onions are used allow equal -quantities of potatoes and onions, but if ordinary onions are used allow -only half this quantity. Place a layer of sliced onion and sliced potato -alternately. Add some pepper, salt, and sufficient butter to moisten the -potato and butter before any water is added. Pour in some water and add a -teaspoonful of chopped parsley, cover the pie with paste, and bake in the -ordinary way. - - -POTATO PIE (ANOTHER WAY).--Butter a shallow pie-dish rather thickly. Line -the edges with a good crust, and then fill the pie with mashed potatoes -seasoned with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Lay over them some small -lumps of butter, hard-boiled eggs, blanched almonds, sliced dates, sliced -lemon and candied peel. Cover the dish with pastry and bake the pie in a -well-heated oven for half an hour or more, according to the size of the -pie. - - -PUMPKIN PIE.--Peel a ripe pumpkin and chip off the rind or skin, halve it, -and take out the seed and fluffy part in the centre, which throw away. Cut -the pumpkin into small, thin slices, fill a pie-dish therewith, add to it -half a teaspoonful of allspice and a tablespoonful of sugar, with a small -quantity of water. Cover with a nice light paste and bake in the ordinary -way. Pumpkin pie is greatly unproved by being eaten with Devonshire cream -and sugar. An equal quantity of apples with the pumpkin will make a still -more delicious pie. - - -PUMPKIN PUDDING.--Take a large pumpkin, pare it, and remove the seeds. Cut -half of it into thin slices, and boil these gently in water until they are -quite soft, then rub them through a fine sieve with the back of a wooden -spoon. Measure the pulp, and with each pint put four ounces of butter and -a large nutmeg, grated. Stir the mixture briskly for a minute or two, then -add the third of a pint of hot milk and four well-beaten eggs. Pour the -pudding into a buttered dish, and bake in a moderate oven for about an -hour. Sugar may be added to taste. - - -POTATO CHEESECAKE.--(_See_ CHEESECAKES.) - - -CHEESE WITH FRIED BREAD.--Take some stale bread, and cut it into strips -about three inches long and one wide and one inch thick. Fry the bread in -some butter or oil till it is a nice bright golden colour. Spread a layer -of made mustard over the strips of fried bread, and then cover them with -grated Parmesan cheese, pile them up on a dish, and place them in the oven. -As soon as the cheese begins to melt serve them very hot. - - -CHEESE, SAVOURY.--Take equal quantities of grated Parmesan cheese, butter, -and flour; add a little salt and cayenne pepper, make these into a paste -with some water, roll out the paste thin till it is about a quarter of an -inch thick; cut it into strips and bake them in the oven till they are a -nice brown, and serve hot. - - -CHEESE SOUFFLE.--(_See_ OMELETS.) - - -CHEESE PUDDING.--Mix half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese with four eggs, -well beaten up; mix in also two ounces of butter, which should be first -beaten to a cream, add half a pint of milk and pour the mixture into a -well-buttered pie-dish, sprinkle some grated Parmesan cheese over the top, -and bake in the oven for about half an hour. The pudding will be lighter -if two of the whites of eggs are beaten to a stiff froth. The edge of the -pie-dish can be lined with puff-paste. - - -CHEESE RAMEQUINS.--Put half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese in a stew-pan -with a quarter of a pound of butter and a quarter of a pint of water; add a -little pepper and salt, and as much flour as will make the whole into a -thick paste. Mix up with the paste as many well-beaten-up eggs as will -make the paste not too liquid to be moulded into a shape. The eggs should -be beaten till they froth. Now, with a tablespoon, mould this mixture into -shapes like a meringue or egg; place these on a buttered tin and bake them -till they are a nice brown colour. - - -CHEESE, STEWED.--When the remains of cheese have got very dry it is a good -plan to use it up in the shape of stewed cheese. Break up the cheese and -put it in a small stew-pan with about a quarter its weight of butter; add a -little milk, and let the cheese stew gently till it is dissolved. At the -finish, and when you have removed it from the fire, add a well-beaten-up -egg. This can be served on toast, or it can be poured on to a dish and -pieces of toasted bread stuck in it. - - -CHEESE STRAWS.--Mix equal quantities of grated Parmesan cheese, grated -bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a wire sieve, butter, and flour; -add a little cayenne and grated nutmeg. Make it into a thick paste, roll -it out very thin, cut it into strips, and bake for a few minutes in a -fierce oven. - - -CHEESE, TOASTED.--This is best done in a Dutch oven, so that when one side -is toasted you can turn the oven and toast the back; as soon as the cheese -begins to melt it is done. As it gets cold very quickly, and when cold -gets hard, it is best served on hot-water plates. - - -CHEESE, DEVILLED.--Chop up some hot pickles, add some cayenne pepper and -mustard. Melt some cheese in a stew-pan with a little butter, mix in the -pickles, and serve on toast. - - -WELSH RAREBIT.--Toast a large slice of bread; in the meantime melt some -cheese in the saucepan with a little butter. When the cheese is melted it -will be found that a good deal of oiled butter floats on the top. Pour -this over the dry toast first, and then pour the melted cheese afterwards. -Some persons add a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce to the cheese, and others -a tablespoonful of good old Burton ale over the top. - - -AYOLI.--This is a dish almost peculiar to the South of France. Soak some -crusts of bread in water, squeeze them dry, and add two cloves of garlic -chopped fine, six blanched almonds, also chopped very fine, and a yolk of -an egg; mix up the whole into a smooth paste with a little oil. - - -PUMPKIN A LA PARMESANE.--Cut a large pumpkin into square pieces and boil -them for about a quarter of an hour in salt and water, and take them out, -drain them, and put them in a stew-pan with a little butter, salt, and -grated nutmeg; fry them, sprinkle them with a little Parmesan cheese, and -bake them for a short time in the oven till the cheese begins to melt, and -then serve. This is an Italian recipe. - - -ZUCCHETTI FARCIS.--Take some very small gourds or pumpkins, boil them for -about a quarter of an hour in salt and water, and then fill them with a -forcemeat made as follows: Take some crumb of bread and soak it in milk, -squeeze it and add the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs and two raw yolks; -chop up very finely half a dozen blanched almonds with a couple of cloves; -add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and a little salt and grated -nutmeg. Stew these gourds in butter and serve them with white sauce. - - -STUFFED ONIONS (ITALIAN FASHION).--Parboil some large onions, stamp out the -core after they have been allowed to get quite cold in a little water; fill -the inside with forcemeat similar to the above; fry then), squeeze the -juice of a lemon over them, with a little pepper. - - -POLENTA.--Polenta is made from ground Indian corn, and is seen in Italian -shop-windows in the form of a yellow powder; it is made into a paste with -boiling water, sprinkled with Parmesan cheese, and baked in the oven. - - -PIROSKI SERNIKIS.--This dish is met with in Poland, and is made by mixing -up two pounds of cream-cheese, three-quarters of a pound of fine -bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a wire sieve, six eggs well -beaten up; add a little cream or milk, four ounces of washed grocer's -currants, one ounce of sugar, half a grated nutmeg; and when the whole is -thoroughly mixed add as much flour as is necessary to make the whole into a -paste that can be rolled into balls. These balls should not be much bigger -than a walnut. Flour them, and then flatten them into little cakes and fry -them a nice brown in some butter. - -Of course, a smaller quantity can be made by using these ingredients in -proportion. - - -NALESNIKIS (POLISH PANCAKES).--Take eight eggs and beat them up very -thoroughly with about a pint and a half of milk, or still better, cream, -two ounces of butter that has been oiled, half a grated nutmeg, and about a -dozen lumps of sugar that have been rubbed on the outside of a lemon; mix -in sufficient flour--about three-quarters of a pound will be required--to -make the whole into a very smooth batter. Melt a little butter in a -frying-pan, pour it all over the pan, and when it frizzles, pour in some of -the batter, and sprinkle over a few currants; when the pancake is fried, -shake some powdered sugar over it, roll it up like an ordinary pancake, and -serve hot. - - -FRITTERS. - -BATTER FOR SAVOURY FRITTERS.--Put six ounces of flour into a basin, with a -pinch of salt, the yolk of one egg, and a quarter of a pint of warm water. -Work this round and round with a wooden spoon till it is perfectly smooth -and looks like thick cream. About half an hour before the batter is wanted -for use whip the white of one egg to a stiff froth and mix it lightly in. - - -MUSHROOM FRITTERS.--Make some mushroom forcemeat; let it get quite cold on -a dish about a quarter of an inch thick. Cut out some small rounds, about -the size of a penny-piece. They fry better if slightly oval. Have ready -some thick batter (_See_ BATTER). Have also ready in a saucepan some -boiling oil, which should be heated to about 350 degrees. Place a -frying-basket in the saucepan, flour the rounds of mushroom forcemeat so as -to make them perfectly dry on the outside. Dip these pieces into the -batter and throw them into the boiling oil. The great heat of the oil will -set the batter before the mushroom force-meat has time to melt. Directly -the batter is a nice light-brown colour, lift them out of the boiling oil -with the frying-basket, and throw them on to a cloth to drain. Break off -the outside pieces of batter, and serve the fritters on a neatly folded -napkin on a dish surrounded by fried parsley. - -The beauty of these fritters is that when they are eaten the inside is -moist, owing, of course, to the heat having melted the forcemeat. - - -TOMATO FRITTERS.--Make some mushroom forcemeat and spread it out as thin as -possible. Take some ripe tomatoes, cut them in slices, dip the slice in -vinegar, drain it and pepper it, and then wrap this thin slice of tomato in -a layer of mushroom forcemeat. Bring the edges together, flour it, dip it -into batter (_see_ BATTER), and throw it into boiling oil as in making -mushroom fritters (_see_ MUSHROOM FRITTERS). - - -IMITATION GAME FRITTERS.--Make some mushroom force-meat as directed under -the heading "Mushroom Forcemeat," with the addition of, when you fry the -mushrooms, chop up and fry with them two heads of garlic, and add a -saltspoonful of aromatic flavouring herbs. (These, are sold in bottles by -all grocers under the name of "Herbaceous Mixture.") Then proceed exactly -as if you were making mushroom fritters (_see_ MUSHROOM FRITTERS). - - -HOMINY FRITTERS.--These are made from remains of cold boiled hominy, cut in -thin slices, which must be dipped in batter and fried in boiling oil. - - -CHEESE FRITTERS.--Pound some dry cheese, or take about three ounces of -Parmesan cheese, and mix it with a few bread-crumbs, a piece of butter, a -pinch of cayenne pepper, and the yolk of an egg, till the whole becomes a -thick paste. Roll the mixture into very small balls, flatten them, flour -them, dip them into batter, and throw them into boiling oil in the ordinary -way. Put them in the oven for five minutes before serving them. - - -SAGE AND ONION FRITTERS.--Make some ordinary sage and onion stuffing, -allowing one fresh sage leaf or two dried to each parboiled onion; add -pepper and salt and dried breadcrumbs. Now moisten the whole with -clarified butter, till the mixture becomes a moist pulp. When it begins to -get cold and sets, roll it into small balls, the size of a very small -walnut, flatten these and let them get quite cold, then flour them, dip -them into batter, and throw them into boiling oil; remove them with the -frying-basket, and serve with fried parsley. - - -SPINACH FRITTERS.--Make a little thick puree of spinach, add a pinch of -savoury herbs containing marjoram; mix in a little clarified butter and one -or two lumps of sugar rubbed on the outside of a lemon, as well as a little -grated nutmeg. Roll the mixture into very small ball; or else they will -break, flatten them, flour them, dip them into batter, and throw them into -boiling oil, and serve immediately. - - -FRITTERS, SWEET.--In making sweet fritters, the same kind of batter will do -as we used for making savoury fritters, though many cooks add a little -powdered sugar. The same principles hold good. The oil must be heated to -a temperature of 350 degrees, and a frying-basket must be used. Instead of -flouring the substances employed to make them dry, before being dipped into -the batter, which is an essential point in making fritters, we must use -finely powdered sugar, and it will be found a saving of both time and -trouble to buy pounded sugar for the purpose. It is sold by grocers under -the name of castor sugar. We cannot make this at home in a pestle and -mortar to the same degree of fineness any more than we could grind our own -flour. We cannot compete with machinery. - - -APPLE FRITTERS.--Peel some apples, cut them in slices across the core, and -stamp out the core. It is customary, where wine, &c., is not objected to, -to soak these rings of apples for several hours in a mixture of brandy, -grated lemon or orange peel and sugar, or better still, to rub some lumps -of sugar on the outside of a lemon or orange and dissolve this in the -brandy. Of course, brandy is not necessary, but the custom is worth -mentioning. The rings of apple can be soaked for some time in syrup -flavoured this way. They must then be made dry by being dipped in powdered -sugar, then dipped into batter and thrown, one at a time, into a saucepan -containing smoking hot oil in which a wire frying-basket has been placed. -Directly the fritters are a nice brown, take them out, break off the rough -pieces, shake some finely powdered sugar over them, pile them up on a dish, -and serve. - - -APRICOT FRITTERS.--These can be made from fresh apricots or tinned ones, -not too ripe; if they break they are not fitted. When made from fresh -apricots they should be peeled, cut in halves, the round end removed, -dipped in powdered sugar, then dipped in batter, thrown into boiling oil, -and finished like apple fritters. Some persons soak the apricots in -brandy. - - -BANANA FRITTERS.--Banana fritters can be made from the bananas as sold in -this country, and it is a mistake to think that when they are black outside -they are bad. When in this state they are sometimes sold as cheap as six a -penny. Peel the bananas, cut them into slices half an inch thick, dip them -into finely powdered sugar and then into batter, and finish as directed in -apple fritters. - -Some persons soak the slices of banana in maraschino. - - -CUSTARD FRITTERS.--Take half a pint of cream in which some cinnamon and -lemon have been boiled, add to this five yolks of eggs, a little flour, and -about three ounces of sugar. Put this into a pie-dish, well buttered, and -steam it till the custard becomes quite set; then let it get cold, and cut -it into slices about half an inch thick and an inch and a half long, -sprinkle each piece with a little powdered cinnamon, and make it quite dry -with some powdered sugar. Then dip each piece into batter, throw them one -by one into boiling oil, and finish as directed for apple fritters. - - -ALMOND FRITTERS, CHOCOLATE FRITTERS, COFFEE FRITTERS, VANILLA FRITTERS, -&c.--These fritters are made exactly in the same way as custard fritters, -only substituting powdered chocolate, pounded almonds, essence of coffee, -or essence of vanilla, for the powdered cinnamon. - - -FRANGIPANE FRITTERS.--Make a Frangipane cream by mixing eggs with a little -cold potato, butter, sugar, and powdered ratafias, the proportion being a -quarter of a pound of butter, four eggs, six ounces of sugar, one cold -floury potato, and a quarter of a pound of ratafias. Bake or steam this -until it is set, and proceed as in custard fritters. Many persons add the -flavouring of a little rum. - - -PEACH FRITTERS.--These are made exactly similar to apricot fritters, -bearing in mind that if they are made from tinned peaches only the firm -pieces, and not pulpy ones, must be used for the purpose. Proceed exactly -as directed for apricot fritters. - -If any liqueur is used, noyeau is best adapted for the purpose. - - -POTATO FRITTERS.--Mix up some floury potato with a quarter of a pound of -butter, a well-beaten-up egg, and three ounces of sugar, some of which has -been rubbed on the outside of a lemon. The addition of a little cream is a -great improvement. Roll the mixture into small balls and flour them; they -are then fried just as they are, without being dipped into batter. - - -PINE-APPLE FRITTERS.--These can be made from fresh pine-apples or tinned. -They should be cut into slices like apple fritters if the pine-apple is -small, but if the pine-apple is large they can be cut into strips three -inches long and one wide and half an inch thick. These must be dipped in -powdered sugar, then into batter, and finished as directed for apple -fritters. - -If any liqueur is used, maraschino is best adapted to the purpose. - -ORANGE FRITTERS.--Only first-class oranges are adapted for this purpose. -Thick-skinned and woolly oranges are no use. Peel a thin-skinned ripe -orange, divide each orange into about six pieces, soak these in a syrup -flavoured with sugar rubbed on the outside of an orange, and if liqueur is -used make the syrup with brandy. After they have soaked some time, remove -any pips, dip each piece into hatter, and proceed as directed for apple -fritters. - - -CREAM FRITTERS.--Rub some lumps of sugar on the outside of an orange, pound -them, and mix with a little cream; take some small pieces of stale white -cake, such as Madeira cake or what the French call brioche. Soak these -pieces of stale cake, which must be cut small and thin, or they will break, -in the orange-flavoured cream, dry each piece in some finely-powdered -sugar, dip it into batter, and proceed as directed for making apple -fritters. - - -GERMAN FRITTERS.--Take some small stale pieces of cake, and soak them in a -little milk or cream flavoured with essence of vanilla and sweetened with a -little sugar. Take them out, and let them get a little dry on the outside, -then dip them in a well-beaten-up egg, cover them with bread-crumbs, and -fry a nice golden-brown colour. - - -RICE AND GINGER FRITTERS.--Boil a small quantity of rice in milk and add -some preserved ginger chopped small, some sugar, and one or more eggs, -sufficient to set the mixture when baked in a pie-dish. Bake till set, -then cut into slices about two inches long, an inch wide, and half an inch -thick; dry these pieces with powdered sugar, dip into batter, and finish as -directed for making apple fritters. - - -RICE FRITTERS.--A variety of fritters could be made from a small baked rice -pudding, flavoured with various kinds of essences, spices, orange -marmalade, peach marmalade, fresh lime marmalade, apricot jam, &c., -proceeding exactly as directed above. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -VEGETABLES. - -SUBSTANTIAL VEGETABLES. - - -Vegetables may be roughly divided into two classes--those that may be -called substantial and which are adapted to form a meal in themselves, and -those of a lighter kind, which cannot be said to make a sufficient repast -unless eaten with bread. - -Potatoes were first introduced into this country about 400 years ago, -tobacco being introduced about the same period, and we cannot disguise the -fact that there are many who regard the latter as the greater blessing of -the two. If Sir Henry Thompson is right in stating that tobacco is the -great ally of temperance, there may be some ground for this opinion. - -Potatoes form an important article of food for the body, while, whatever -effect tobacco may have upon the thinking powers of mankind, it is almost -the only product of the vegetable kingdom that is absolutely uneatable even -when placed within the reach of those in the last stage of starvation. - -In some parts, especially in Ireland, potatoes form almost the only food of -the population, just as rice does in hotter climates, and when the crop -fails famine ensues. When potatoes form the only kind of food, a very -large quantity has to be eaten by a hard-working man in order for him to -receive sufficient nourishment to keep his body healthy, the amount -required being not less than ten pounds per day. If, on the other hand, a -certain amount of fat or oil of some kind be mixed with them, a far less -quantity will suffice. Hence we find in Ireland that, wherever it is -possible, either some kind of oily fish, such as herring, is taken with -them, or, which is much more to the point with vegetarians, a certain -quantity of fat is obtained in the shape of milk. - -It must also be remembered that four pounds of raw potatoes contain only -one pound of solid food, the remaining three pounds being water. It is -important, for those who first commence a vegetarian diet, to remember that -vegetables like peas, haricot beans, and lentils are far superior to -potatoes so far as nourishment is concerned, for many are apt to jump to -the conclusion that potatoes are the very best substitute for bread and -milk. So, too, is oatmeal. A Scotchman requires a far less quantity of -oatmeal to sustain life than an Irishman does potatoes; hence it is a very -important point to remember that, if we depend upon potatoes to any great -extent for our daily food, we should cook them in such a manner as to -entail as little waste as possible. We will now try and explain, as -briefly as possible, the best method of serving. - - -POTATOES, PLAIN BOILED.--The best method of having potatoes, if we wish to -study economy, is to boil them in their jackets, as it is generally -admitted that the most nourishing part is that which lies nearest to the -skin. There are many houses in the country where an inexperienced cook -will peel, say four pounds of potatoes, and throw the peel into the -pig-tub, where the pig gets a better meal than the family. - -When potatoes are boiled in their skins, they should be thoroughly washed -and scrubbed with a hard brush. Old potatoes should be put into cold -water, and when the water boils the time should a good deal depend upon the -size of the potatoes. When the potatoes are large, the chief principle to -be borne in mind is, do not let them boil too quickly or cook too quickly. -We must avoid having the outside pulpy while the inside is hard. The -water, which should be slightly salted, should more than cover them, and, -if the potatoes are very large, directly the water comes to the boil it is -a good plan to throw in a little cold water to take it off the boil. It is -quite impossible to lay down any exact law in regard to boiling potatoes. -We cannot do more than give general principles which can only be carried -out by cooks who possess a little common sense. - -Small new potatoes are an extreme in one direction. They should be thrown -into boiling water, and are generally cooked in about ten minutes or a -quarter of an hour. Large old potatoes should be put into cold water and, -as we have stated, the water should not be allowed to boil too soon, and it -will take very often an hour to boil them properly. Between these two -extremes there is a gradually ascending scale which must be left to the -judgment of the cook. It is as impossible to lay down any hard-and-fast -line with regard to time in boiling potatoes as it would be to say at what -exact point in the thermometer between freezing and 80 degrees in the shade -a man should put on his top coat. - -If we may be allowed the expression, "old new" potatoes should be thrown -into neither boiling water nor cold water, but lukewarm water. Again, in -boiling potatoes, especially in the case of old ones, some little allowance -must be made for the time of year. In winter, they require longer time, -and we may here mention the fact that it is very important that potatoes, -after they are dug, should not be left out of doors and exposed to a hard -frost, as in this case a chemical change takes place in which the starch is -converted into sugar. - -When potatoes are boiled in their jackets sufficiently, which fact is -generally tested by sticking a steel fork into them, they should be -strained off, and allowed to get dry for a few minutes in the saucepan, -which should be removed from the fire, as at times the potatoes are apt to -stick and burn. - -When large potatoes are peeled before they are boiled, we should endeavour -to send them to table floury, and this is often said to be the test of a -really good cook. After the water has been strained off from the potatoes, -a dry cloth should be placed under the lid of the saucepan, and the lid -should only be placed half on, _i.e._, it should not be fitted down tight. -It is also as well to give the saucepan now and then a shake, but do not -overdo the shaking and break them. About five or ten minutes is generally -sufficient. - - -POTATOES, STEAMED.--Potatoes can be steamed in their jackets, and it is a -more economical method than peeling. It should be remembered, however, -that steam is hotter than boiling water. If plain water is underneath and -boils furiously, and the steam is well shut in, they will cook very -quickly; but if, as is generally the case, something else is in the -saucepan under the steamer, boiling gently, this does not apply. We refer -to the ordinary steamer met with in private houses, and not to the ones -used in the large hotels and restaurants. - - -POTATOES, BAKED.--When potatoes are baked in the oven in their jackets the -larger they are the better. The oven must not be too fierce, and ample -time should be allowed. Baked potatoes require quite two hours. This only -refers to those baked in their jackets. When potatoes are cut up and baked -in a tin they require some kind of fat, which, of course, in vegetarian -cookery must be either oil or butter. - - -POTATOES, MASHED.--What may be termed high-class mashed potatoes are made -by mashing up ordinary boiled potatoes with a little milk _previously -boiled_, a little butter, and passing the whole through a wire sieve, when -a little cream, butter and salt is added. - -In private houses mashed potatoes are generally made from the remains of -cold boiled potatoes, or when the cook, in boiling the potatoes, has made a -failure. Still, of course, potatoes are boiled often expressly for the -purpose of being mashed. This is often the case where old potatoes have to -be cut into all sorts of shapes and sizes in order to get rid of the black -spots. As soon as the potatoes are boiled they are generally moistened in -the saucepan with a little drop of milk. It is undoubtedly an improvement, -and also entails very little extra trouble, to boil the milk first. There -is a difference in flavour, which is very marked, between milk that has -been boiled and raw milk. Suppose you have coffee for breakfast, add -boiling milk to one cup and raw milk to another, and then see how great a -difference there will be in the flavour of the two. A little butter should -be added to mashed potatoes, but it is not really essential. Mashed -potatoes can be served in the shape of a mould, that is, they can be shaped -in a mould and then browned in the oven. If you serve mashed potatoes in -an ordinary dish, and pile them up in the shape of a dome, the dish will -look much prettier if you score it round with a fork and then place the -dish in a fairly fierce even; the edges will brown, but be careful that -they don't get burnt black. - - -POTATOES, FRIED.--The best lesson, if you wish to fry potatoes nicely, is -to look in at the window of a fried fish shop, where every condition is -fulfilled that is likely to lead to perfection. The bath of oil is deep -and smoking hot, and in sufficient quantity not to lose greatly in -temperature on the introduction of the frying-basket containing the -potatoes. The potatoes must be cut up into small pieces, not much bigger -in thickness than the little finger; these are plunged into the smoking hot -oil, and as soon as they are _slightly_ browned on the outside they are -done. They acquire a darker colour after they are removed from the oil, -and the inside will go on cooking for several minutes. It would be quite -impossible to eat fried potatoes directly they are taken out of the fat, as -they would burn the mouth terribly. It is best to throw the fried potatoes -into a cloth for a few seconds. - - -POTATO CHIPS.--Potato chips are ordinary fried potatoes cut up when raw -into little pieces about the size and thickness of a lucifer match. They, -of course, will cook very quickly. They should be removed from the oil -directly they _begin_ to turn colour. - - -POTATO RIBBON.--Potato ribbon is simply ordinary fried potatoes, in which -the raw potato is cut in the shape of a ribbon. You take a potato and peel -it in the ordinary way. You then take this and, with not too sharp a -knife, peel it like apple, making the strip as long as you can, like -children sometimes do when they throw the apple peel over their shoulders -to see what letter it will make. You can go on peeling the potato round -and round till there is none left. These ribbons are thrown into boiling -oil, and must be removed as soon as they begin to turn colour. When piled -up in a dish they look very pretty, and with a little pepper and salt, and -a squeeze of lemon-juice, make an excellent meal when eaten with bread. - - -POTATO SAUTE.--This dish is more frequently met with abroad than in -England, except in foreign restaurants. It is made by taking the remains -of ordinary plain-boiled potatoes that are not floury. These are cut up -into small pieces about the size of the thumb, no particular shape being -necessary. They are thrown into a frying-pan with a little butter, and -fried gently till the edges begin to brown; they are served with chopped -parsley and pepper and salt. The butter should be poured over the -potatoes, and supplies the fatty element which potato lacks. - - -POTATOES A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.--These are very similar to potato saute, the -difference being that they are not browned at the edges. Small kidney -potatoes are best for the purpose. These must be boiled till tender, and -the potatoes then cut into slices. These must be warmed up with a spoonful -or two of white sauce (_see_ WHITE SAUCE), to which is added some chopped -parsley and a little lemon-juice. A more common way is to boil the -potatoes, slice them up while hot, and then toss them about in a -vegetable-dish lightly with a lump of what is called Maitre d'hotel butter. -This is simply a lump of plain cold butter, mixed with chopped parsley, -till it looks like a lump of cold parsley and butter. When tossed about -squeeze a little lemon-juice over the whole and serve. - - -POTATOES, NEW.--New potatoes should be washed and the skin, if necessary, -rubbed off with the fingers; they should be thrown into boiling water, -slightly salted, and as a rule require from fifteen to five-and-twenty -minutes to boil before they are done. During the last few minutes throw in -one or two sprigs of fresh mint, drain them off and let there dry, and then -place them in a vegetable-dish with the mint and a little piece of butter, -in which the potatoes should be boiled to give them a shiny appearance -outside. - -New potatoes can also be served with a little white sauce to which has been -added a little chopped parsley. - -POTATO BALLS.--Mash some boiled potatoes with a little butter, pepper, -salt, chopped parsley, chopped onion, or still better, shallot, and add a -few savoury herbs. Mix up one or two or more well-beaten eggs, according -to the quantity of potato, roll the mixture into balls, flour them, and fry -them a nice brown colour, and serve. - - -POTATO CROQUETTES OR CUTLETS.--These are very similar to potato balls, only -they should be smaller and more delicately flavoured. The potatoes are -boiled and mashed, and, if the croquettes are wished to be very good, one -or two hard-boiled yolks of eggs should be mixed with them. The mixture is -slightly flavoured with shallot, savoury herbs or thyme, chopped parsley, -and a little nutmeg. One or two fresh well-beaten-up eggs are now added, -the mixture then rolled into small balls no bigger than a walnut. These -are then dipped in well-beaten-up egg, and then bread-crumbed. The balls -are fried a nice golden-brown colour and served. - -Potato cutlets are exactly the same, only instead of shaping the mixture -into a little ball, the ball is flattened into the shape of a small oval -cutlet. These are then egged, bread-crumbed, and fried, but before being -sent to table a small piece of green parsley stalk is stuck in one end to -represent the bone of the cutlet. These little cutlets, placed on an -ornamental sheet of white paper, at the bottom of the silver dish, look -very pretty. A small heap of fried parsley should be placed in the centre -of the dish. - - -POTATO PIE.--(_See_ SAVOURY DISHES, p. 112.) - - -POTATO CHEESECAKE.--(_See_ CHEESECAKES, p. 169.) - - -POTATO SALADS.--(_See_ SALADS, p. 101.) - - -POTATO, BORDER OF.--A very pretty dish can be made by making a border of -mashed potatoes, hollow in the centre, in which can be placed various kinds -of other vegetables, such as haricot beans, stewed peas, &c. The mashed -potato should be mixed with one or two well-beaten-up eggs, and the outside -of the border can be moulded by hand, to make it look smooth and neat; a -piece of flexible tin, flat, will be found very useful, or even a piece of -cardboard. If you wish to make the border ornamental, you can proceed -exactly as directed under the heading Rice Borders, and if it is wished to -make the dish particularly handsome, it can be painted outside, before -being placed in the oven, with a yolk of egg beaten up with a tiny drop of -hot water. When this is done, the potato border has an appearance similar -in colour to the rich pastry generally seen outside a pie, or _vol au -vent_. The inside of the potato border after it has been scooped out can -be filled with plain boiled macaroni mixed with Parmesan cheese, and -ornamented with a little chopped parsley on the top and a few small baked -red ripe tomatoes. Again, it can be filled with white haricot beans piled -up in the shape of a dome, with some chopped parsley sprinkled over the -top. There are, perhaps, few dishes in vegetarian cookery that can be made -to look more elegant. - - -POTATO BISCUITS (_M. Ude's Recipe_).--Take fifteen fresh eggs, break the -yolks into one pan and the whites into another. Beat the yolks with a -pound of sugar pounded very fine, scrape the peel of a lemon with a lump of -sugar, dry that and pound it fine also; then throw into it the yolks, and -work the eggs and sugar till they are of a whitish colour. Next whip the -whites well and mix them with the yolks. Now sift half a pound of flour of -potatoes through a silk sieve over the eggs and sugar. Have some paper -cases ready, which lay on a plafond with some paper underneath. Fill the -cases, but not too full; glaze the contents with some rather coarse sugar, -and bake the whole in an oven moderately heated. - - -POTATO BREAD.--In making bread, a portion of mashed potato is sometimes -added to the flour, and this addition improves the bread very much for some -tastes; it also keeps it from getting dry quite so soon. At the same time -it is not so nutritious as ordinary home-made bread. Boil the required -quantity of potatoes in their skins, drain and dry them, then peel and -weigh them. Pound them with the rolling-pin until they are quite free from -lumps, and mix with them the flour in the proportion of seven pounds of -flour to two and a half pounds of potatoes. Add the yeast and knead in the -ordinary way, but make up the bread with milk instead of water. When the -dough is well risen, bake the bread in a gentle oven. Bake it a little -longer than for ordinary bread, and, when it seems done enough, let it -stand a little while, with the oven-door open, before taking it out. -Unless these precautions are taken, the crust will be hard and brittle, -while the inside is still moist and doughy. This recipe is from "Cassell's -Dictionary of Cookery." - - -POTATO CAKE.--Take a dozen good-sized potatoes and hake them in the oven -till done, then peel and put them into a saucepan with a little salt and -grated lemon-peel; set them upon the stove and put in a piece of fresh -butter and stir the whole; add a little cream and sugar, still continuing -to stir them; then let them cool a little and add some orange-flower water, -eight yolks of eggs and four only of whites, whisked into froth; heat up -the whole together and mix it with the potato puree. Butter a mould and -sprinkle it with bread-crumbs; pour in the paste, place the pan upon hot -cinders, with fire upon the lid, and let it remain for three-quarters of an -hour, or it may be baked in an oven. - - -POTATO CHEESE.--Potato cheeses are very highly esteemed in Germany; they -can be made of various qualities, but care must be taken that they are not -too rich and have not too much heat, or they will burst. Boil the potatoes -till they are soft, but the skin must not be broken. The potatoes must be -large and of the best quality. When boiled, carefully peel them and beat -them to a smooth paste in a mortar with a wooden pestle. To make the -commonest cheese, put five pounds of potato paste into a cheese-tub with -one pound of milk and rennet; add a sufficient quantity of salt, together -with caraways and cumin seed sufficient to impart a good flavour. Knead -all these ingredients well together, cover up and allow them to stand three -or four days in winter, two to three in summer. At the end of that time -knead them again, put the paste into wicker moulds, and leave the cheeses -to drain until they are quite dry. When dry and firm, lay them on a board -and leave them to acquire hardness gradually in a place of very moderate -warmth; should the heat be too great, as we have said, they will burst. -When, in spite of all precautions, such accidents occur, the crevices of -the burst cheeses are, in Germany, filled with curds and cream mixed, some -being also put over the whole surface of the cheese, which is then dried -again. As soon as the cheeses are thoroughly dry and hard, place them in -barrels with green chickweed between each cheese; let them stand for about -three weeks, when they will be fit for use. - - -POTATOES A LA BARIGOULE.--Peel some potatoes and boil them in a little -water with some oil, pepper, salt, onions, and savoury herbs. Boil them -slowly, so that they can absorb the liquor; when they are done, brown them -in a stew-pan in a little oil, and serve them to be eaten with oil and -vinegar, pepper and salt. - - -POTATOES, BROILED.--Potatoes are served this way sometimes in Italy. They -are first boiled in their skins, but not too long. They are then taken out -and peeled, cut into thin slices, placed on a gridiron, and grilled till -they are crisp. A little oil is poured over them when they are served. - - -POTATOES A LA LYONNAISE.--First boil and then peel and slice some potatoes. -Make some rather thin puree of onion. (_See_ SAUCE SOUBISE.) Pour this -over the potatoes and serve. - -Another way is to first brown the slices of potatoes and then serve them -with the onion sauce, with the addition of a little vinegar or lemon-juice. - - -POTATOES A LA PROVENCALE.--Put a small piece of butter into a stew-pan, or -three tablespoonfuls of oil, three beads of garlic, the peel of a quarter -of a lemon, and some parsley, all chopped up very fine; add a little grated -nutmeg, pepper and salt. Peel some small potatoes and let them stew till -they are tender in this mixture. Large potatoes can be used for the -purpose, only they must be cut tip into pieces. Add the juice of a lemon -before serving. - - -HARICOT BEANS.--It is very much to be regretted that haricot beans are not -more used in this country. There are hundreds of thousands of families who -at the end of a year would be richer in purse and more healthy in body if -they would consent to deviate from the beaten track and try haricot beaus, -not as an accompaniment to a dish of meat, but as an article of diet in -themselves. The immense benefit derived in innumerable cases from a diet -of beans is one of the strongest and most practical arguments in favour of -vegetarianism. Meat-eaters often boast of the plainness of their food, and -yet wonder that they suffer in health. It is not an uncommon thing for a -man to consult his doctor and to tell him, "I live very simply, nothing but -plain roast or boiled." - -Medical men are all agreed on one point, and that is that haricot beans -rank almost first among vegetables as a nourishing article of diet. In -writing on this subject, Sir Henry Thompson observes, "Let me recall, at -the close of these few hints about the haricot, the fact that there is no -product of the vegetable kingdom so nutritious, holding its own, in this -respect, as it well can, even against the beef and mutton of the animal -kingdom." - -This is a very strong statement, coming as it does from so high an -authority, and vegetarians would do well to hear it in mind when discussing -the subject of vegetarianism with those who differ from them. Sir Henry -proceeds as follows:--"The haricot ranks just above lentils, which have -been so much praised of late, and rightly, the haricot being to most -palates more agreeable. By most stomachs, too, haricots are more easily -digested than meat is; and, consuming weight for weight, the eater feels -lighter and less oppressed, as a rule, after the leguminous dish, while the -comparative cost is very greatly in favour of the latter." - -To boil haricot beans proceed as follows. We refer, of course, to the -dried white haricot beans, the best of which are those known as Soissons. -The beans should be soaked in cold water overnight, and in the morning any -that may be found floating on the top of the water should be thrown away. -Suppose the quantity be a quart; place these in a saucepan with two quarts -of cold water, slightly salted. As soon as time water conies to the boil, -move it so that the beans will only simmer gently; they must then continue -simmering till they are tender. This generally takes about three hours, -and if the water is hard, it is advisable to put in a tiny piece of soda. -This is the simple way of cooking beans usually recommended in -cookery-books when they are served up with a dish of meat, such as a leg of -mutton a la Bretonne, where the beans are served in some rich brown gravy -containing fat. In vegetarian cookery, of course, we must proceed entirely -differently, and there are various ways in which this nourishing dish can -be served, as savoury and as appetising, and indeed more so, than if we had -assistance from the slaughter-house. We will now proceed to give a few -instances. - -In the first place, it will greatly assist the flavour of the beans if we -boil with them one or two onions and a dessertspoonful of savoury herbs. -Supposing, however, we have them boiled plain. Take a large dry crust of -bread and rub the outside well over with one or two beads of garlic. Place -this crust of bread with the beans after they have been strained off, and -toss them lightly about with the crust without breaking the beans. Remove -the crust and moisten the beans while hot with a lump of butter, add a -brimming dessertspoonful of chopped blanched parsley; squeeze the juice of -a lemon over the whole, and serve. Instead of butter we can add, as they -always do in Italy, two or three tablespoonfuls of pure olive oil. Those -who have conquered the unreasonable English prejudice against the use of -oil will probably find this superior to butter. - -If the beans are served in the form of a puree, it is always best to boil a -few onions with them and rub the onions through the wire sieve with the -beans, taking care that the quantity of onion is not so large that it -destroys and overpowers the delicate and delicious flavour of the beans -themselves. - -Next, we would call attention to the importance of not throwing away the -water in which the beans were boiled. This water contains far more -nourishment than people are aware of, and throughout the length and breadth -of France, where economy is far more understood than in this country, it is -invariably saved to assist in making some kind of soup, and as our soup -will, of course, be vegetarian, the advantage gained is simply -incalculable. - - -FLAGEOLETS.--These are haricot beans in the fresh green state, and are -rarely met with in this country, though they form a standing dish abroad. -They are exceedingly nice, and can be cooked in a little butter like the -French cook green peas. They are often flavoured with garlic, and chopped -parsley can be added to them. Those who are fond of this vegetable in the -fresh state can obtain them in tins from any high-class grocer, as the -leading firms in this country keep them in this form for export. - - -PEAS, DRIED.--Dried peas, like dried beans, contain a very great amount of -nourishment. Indeed, in this respect, practically, dried beans, dried -peas, and lentils may be considered equal. Dried peas are met with in two -forms--the split yellow pea and those that are dried whole, green. Split -peas are chiefly used in this country to make pea soup, or puree of peas -and peas pudding. We have already given recipes for the two former, and -will now describe how to make-- - - -PEAS PUDDING.--Soak a quart of peas in water overnight, throwing away those -in the morning that are found floating at the top. Drain them off and tie -them up in a pudding-cloth, taking care to leave plenty of room for the -peas to swell; put them into cold water, and boil them till they are -tender. This will take from two to three hours. When tender, take them -out, untie the cloth, and rub them through a colander, or, better still, a -wire sieve. Now mix in a couple of ounces of butter with some pepper and -salt, flour the cloth well and tie it up again and boil it for another -hour, when it can be turned out and served. Peas pudding when eaten alone -is improved by mixing in, at the same time as the butter, a dessertspoonful -of dried powdered mint, also, should you have the remains of any cold -potatoes in the house, it is a very good way of using them up. A few -savoury herbs can be used instead of mint. - - -PEAS "BROSE."--Dr. Andrew, in writing to the "Cyclopaedia of Domestic -Medicine," says, "In the West of Scotland, especially in Glasgow, 'peas -brose,' as it is called, is made of the fine flour of the white pea, by -forming it into a mass merely by the addition of boiling water and a little -salt. It is a favourite dish with not only the working classes, but it is -even esteemed by many of the gentry. It was introduced into fashion -chiefly by the recommendation of Dr. Cleghorn, late Professor of Chemistry -in Glasgow University. The peas brose is eaten with milk or butter, and is -a sweet, nourishing article of diet peculiarly fitted for persons of a -costive habit and for children." - - -PEAS, DRIED WHOLE, GREEN.--This is perhaps the best form with which we meet -peas dried. When the best quality is selected, and care taken in their -preparation, they are quite equal to fresh green peas when they are old. -Indeed, many persons prefer them. - -Soak the peas overnight, throwing away those that float at the top; put -them into cold water, and when they boil let the peas simmer gently till -they are tender. The time varies very much with the quality and the size -of the peas, old ones requiring nearly three hours, others considerably -less. When the peas are tender, throw in some sprigs, if possible, of -fresh mint, and after a minute strain them off; add pepper, salt, and about -two ounces of butter to a quart of peas--though this is not absolutely -necessary--and nearly a dessertspoonful of white powdered sugar. - -If you wish to have the peas as bright a green as freshly gathered ones, -after you strain them off you can mix them in a basin, before you add the -butter, with a little piece of green vegetable colouring (sold in bottles -by all grocers). The peas should then be put back in the saucepan for a -few minutes to be made hot through, and then finished as directed before. - - -PEAS, DRIED, GREEN, WITH CREAM.--Boil the peas as before directed till they -are quite tender, then strain them off and put them in a stew-pan with one -ounce of butter to every quart of peas and toss them lightly about with a -little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Add to each quart of peas a -quarter of a pint of cream and a dessertspoonful of powdered sugar; -surround the dish with fried or toasted bread. - -LENTILS.--Lentils are, comparatively speaking, a novel form of food in this -country, though they have been used abroad for many years, and a recipe for -cooking them will be found in a well-known work, published in Paris in -1846, entitled "_La Cuisiniere de la Campagne et de la Ville; ou, Nouvelle -Cuisine Economique_," one of the most popular French cookery-books ever -published, and which in that year had reached a circulation of 80,000 -copies. - -Recipes for boiled lentils and lentil soup are given in "Cassell's -Dictionary of Cookery," published in 1875; but it is stated in the -introductory remarks that lentils are little used in England except as food -for pigeons, and adds, "They are seldom offered for sale." Since that date -lentils have become an exceedingly popular form of food in many households, -and vegetarians generally regard them as one of the most nourishing forms -of food served at the table. There are two kinds of lentils, the German -and Egyptian. The Egyptian are red and much smaller than the German, which -are green. The former kind are generally used on the Continent, in Italy -and the South of France, while, as the name implies, the green lentils are -more commonly used in Eastern Europe. Either kind, however, can be used -for making soup and puree, recipes of which have already been given, as -well as for the recipes in the present chapter. - - -LENTILS, BOILED.--The lentils should be placed in soak overnight, and those -that float should be thrown away. Suppose we have half a pint of lentils, -they should be boiled in about a pint and a half of water. Boil them till -they are tender, which will take about half an hour, then drain them off -and put them back in the saucepan for a few minutes with a little piece of -butter, squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon, and serve hot. Some -people make a little thickened sauce with yolks of eggs and a little butter -and flour mixed with the water in which they are boiled. - - -LENTILS, CURRIED.--Lentils are very nice curried. Boil the lentils as -directed above till they are tender. When they are placed in a -vegetable-dish make deep well in the centre and pour some thick curry sauce -into it. (_See_ CURRY SAUCE.) - - -LENTILS A LA PROVENCALE.--Soak the lentils overnight and put them into a -stew-pan with five or six spoonfuls of oil, a little butter, some slices of -onion, some chopped parsley, and a teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs. -Stew them in this till the lentils are tender, and then thicken the sauce -with yolks of eggs, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and serve. - -N.B.--Haricot beans can be cooked in a similar manner. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -VEGETABLES, FRESH. - - -ARTICHOKES, FRENCH, PLAIN BOILED.--Put the artichokes to soak in some well -salted water, upside down, as otherwise it is impossible to get rid of the -insects that are sometimes hidden in the leaves. Trim off the ends of the -leaves and the stalk, and all the hard leaves round the bottom should be -pulled off. Put the artichokes into a saucepan of boiling water -sufficiently deep to nearly cover them. The tips of the leaves are best -left out; add a little salt, pepper, and a spoonful of savoury herbs to the -water in which they are boiled. French cooks generally add a piece of -butter. Boil them till they are tender. The time depends upon the size, -but you can always tell when they are done by pulling out a single leaf. -If it comes out easily the artichokes are done. Drain them off, and -remember in draining them to turn them upside down. Some kind of sauce is -generally served with artichokes separately in a boat, such as butter -sauce, sauce Allemande, or Dutch sauce. - - -ARTICHOKES, BROILED.--Parboil the artichokes and take out the part known as -the choke. In the hollow place a little chopped parsley and light-coloured -bread-raspings soaked in olive oil. Place the bottoms of the artichokes on -a gridiron with narrow bars over a clear fire, and serve them as soon a -they are thoroughly hot through. - - -ARTICHOKES, FRIED.--The bottoms of artichokes after being boiled can be -dipped in batter and fried. - - -ARTICHOKES A LA PROVENCALE.--Parboil the artichokes and remove the choke, -and put them in the oven in a tin with a little oil, pepper and salt, and -three or four heads of garlic, whole. Let them bake till they are tender, -turning them over in the oil occasionally; then take out the garlic and -serve them with the oil poured over them, and add the juice of a lemon. - - -ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM, BOILED, PLAIN.--The artichokes must be first washed -and peeled, and should be treated like potatoes in this respect. They -should be thrown into cold water immediately, and it is best to add a -little vinegar to the water. If the artichokes are young, throw them into -boiling water, and they will become tender in about a quarter of an hour or -twenty minutes. It is very important not to over-boil them, as they turn a -bad colour. If any doubt exists as to the age of the artichokes, they had -better be tested with a fork. Immediately they are tender they should be -drained and served. - -Old artichokes must be treated like old potatoes, _i.e._, put originally -into cold water, and when they come to the boiling point allowed to simmer -till tender; but these are best mashed. When the artichokes have been -drained, they can, of course, be served quite plain, but they are best sent -to table with some kind of sauce poured over them, such as Allemande sauce, -Dutch sauce, white sauce, or plain butter sauce. They are greatly improved -in appearance, after a spoonful of sauce has been poured over each -artichoke, if a little blanched chopped parsley is sprinkled over them, and -a few red specks made by colouring a pinch of bread-crumbs by shaking them -with a few drops of cochineal. - -Another very nice way of sending artichokes to table is to place all the -artichokes together in a vegetable-dish, and, after pouring a little white -sauce over each artichoke, to place a fresh-boiled bright green Brussels -sprout between each. The white and green contrast very prettily. - - -JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, FRIED.--Peel and slice the artichokes very thin; -throw these slices into smoking hot oil in which a frying-basket has been -placed. As soon as the artichokes are of bright golden-brown colour, lift -out the frying-basket, shake it while you pepper and salt the artichokes, -and serve very hot. They can be eaten with thin brown bread-and-butter and -lemon-juice, and form a sort of vegetarian whitebait. - - -ARTICHOKES, MASHED.--These are best made from old artichokes. They must be -rubbed through a wire sieve, and the strings left behind. It is best to -mash them up with a little butter, and a spoonful or two of cream is a very -great improvement. - - -ASPARAGUS, BOILED.--Cut the asparagus all the same length by bringing the -green points together, and then trimming the stalks level with a sharp -knife. Throw the asparagus into boiling salted water. Time, from fifteen -to twenty-five minutes, according to thickness. Serve on dry toast, and -send butter sauce to table separate in a tureen. - - -BEANS, BROAD, PLAIN BOILED.--Broad beans, if eaten whole, should be quite -young. They should be thrown into boiling water, salted. They require -about twenty minutes to boil before they are tender. Serve with parsley -and butter sauce. - - -BROAD BEANS, MASHED.--When broad beans get old, the only way to serve them -is to have them mashed. Boil them, and remove the skins, then mash them up -with a little butter, pepper, and salt, and rub them through a wire sieve, -make them hot, and serve. You can if you like boil a few green onions and -a pinch of savoury herbs with the beans, and rub these through the wire -sieve as well. This dish is very cheap and very nourishing. Very young -beans, like very young peas, are more nice than economical. - - -BEANS A LA POULETTE.--Boil some young beans till they are tender, and put -them into a saucepan with a little butter, sugar, pepper, and salt, and -sufficient flour to prevent the butter cooking oily; stew them in this a -short time, _i.e._, till they appear to begin to boil, as the water from -the beans will mix with the butter and flour and look like thin butter -sauce thicken this with one or two yolks of eggs, and serve. - - -BEANS A LA BOURGEOISE.--Place the beans in a saucepan, with a piece of -butter, a small quantity of shallot chopped fine, and a teaspoonful of -savoury herbs; toss them about in this a little time, and then add a little -water, sufficient to moisten them so that they can stew; add a little -sugar, and when tender thicken the water with some beaten-up egg. - - -BEANS, FRENCH, PLAIN BOILED.--French beans are only good when fresh -gathered, and the younger they are the better. When small they can be -boiled whole, in which case they only require the tips cut off and the -string that runs down the side removed. When they are more fully grown -they will require, in addition to being trimmed in this manner, to be cut -into thin strips, and when very old it will be found best to cut them -slanting. They must be thrown into boiling salted water, and boiled till -they are tender. The time for boiling varies with the age; very young ones -will not take more than a quarter of an hour, and if old ones are not -tender in half an hour they had better be made into a puree. As soon as -the beans are tender, drain them off, and serve them very hot; the chief -point to bear in mind, if we wish to have our beans nice, is, they must be -eaten directly they are drained from the water in which they are boiled. -They are spoilt by what is called being kept hot, and possess a marvellous -facility of getting cold in a very short space of time. - -In vegetarian cookery, when beans are eaten without being an accompaniment -to meat, some form of fat is desirable. When the beans are drained we can -add either butter or oil. When a lump of _Maitre d'hotel_ butter is added -they form what the French call _haricots vert a la Maitre d'hotel_. In -this case, a slight suspicion of garlic may be added by rubbing the -stew-pan in which the French beans are tossed together with the _Maitre -d'hotel butter_. When oil is added, a little chopped parsley will be found -an improvement, as well as pepper, salt, and a suspicion of nutmeg. - -French beans are very nice flavoured with oil and garlic, and served in a -border of macaroni. - - -FRENCH BEAN PUDDING.--When French beans are very old they are sometimes -made into a pudding as follows:--They must be trimmed, cut up, boiled, with -or without the addition of a few savoury herbs. They must be then mashed -in a basin, tied up in a well-buttered and then floured cloth, and boiled -for some time longer. The pudding can then be turned out. A still better -way of making a French bean pudding is to rub the beans through the wire -sieve, leaving the strings behind, flavouring the pudding with a few -savoury herbs, a little sugar, pepper, and salt, and, if liked, a suspicion -of garlic; add one or two well-beaten-up eggs, and put the mixture in a -round pudding-basin, and bake it till it sets. This can be turned out on -the centre of a dish, and a few young French beans placed round the base to -ornament it, in conjunction with some pieces of fried bread cut into pretty -shapes. - - -BROCOLI.--Trim the outer leaves off a brocoli, and cut off the stalk even, -so that it will stand upright. Soak the brocoli in salt and water for some -time, in order to get rid of any insects. Throw the brocoli into boiling -water that has been salted, and boil till it is tender, the probable time -for young brocoli being about a quarter of an hour. It should be served on -a dish with the flower part uppermost; and butter sauce, sauce Allemande, -or Dutch sauce can be served separately, or poured over the surface. - -When several heads of brocoli are served at once, it is important to cut -the stalks flat, as directed, before boiling. After they have been -thoroughly drained _upside down_, they should be placed on the dish, flower -part uppermost, and placed together as much as possible to look like one -large brocoli. If sauce is poured over them, the sauce should be -sufficiently thick to be spread, and every part of the flower should be -covered. Half a teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley may be sprinkled -over the top, and improves the appearance of the dish. - -N.B.--We would particularly call attention to the importance of draining -brocoli and cauliflower very thoroughly, especially when any sauce is -served with the brocoli. When the dish is cut into, nothing looks more -disagreeable than to see the white sauce running off the brocoli into green -water at the bottom of the dish. - - -BROCOLI GREENS.--The outside leaves of brocoli should not be thrown away, -but eaten. Too often they are trimmed off at the greengrocer's or at the -market, and, we presume, utilised for the purpose of feeding cattle. They -can be boiled exactly like white cabbages, and are equal to them, if not -superior, in flavour. To boil them, _see_ CABBAGE, WHITE, LARGE. - - -BRUSSELS SPROUTS.--These must be first washed in cold water and all the -little pieces of decayed leaves trimmed away. Throw them into boiling -salted water; the water must be kept boiling the whole time, without a lid -on the saucepan, and if the quantity of water be sufficiently large not to -be taken off the boil by the sprouts being thrown in they will be sent to -table of a far brighter green colour than otherwise. In order to ensure -this, throw in the sprouts a few at a time, picking out the big ones to -throw in first. Sprouts, as soon as they are tender--probable time a -quarter of an hour--should be drained and served _quickly_. When served as -a dish by themselves, after being drained off, they can be placed in a -stew-pan with a little butter, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and lemon-juice. They -can then be served with toasted or fried bread. - - -CABBAGE, PLAIN BOILED.--Ordinary young cabbages should be first trimmed by -having the outside leaves removed, the stalks cut off, and then should be -cut in halves and allowed to soak some time in salt and water. They should -be thrown into plenty of boiling water; the water should be kept boiling -and uncovered. As soon as they are tender they should be strained off and -served immediately. Young summer cabbages will not take longer than a -quarter of an hour, or even less; old cabbages take nearly double that -time. It is impossible to lay down any exact rule with regard to time. -Savoys generally take about half an hour. The large white cabbages met -with in the West of England take longer and require a different treatment. - -When cabbage is served as a dish by itself it will be found a great -improvement to add either butter or oil to moisten the cabbage after it is -thoroughly drained off. In order to ensure the butter not oiling, but -adhering to the cabbage, it is best after the butter is added, and while -you mix it with the cabbage, to shake the flour-dredger two or three times -over the vegetable. In Germany, many add vinegar and sugar to the cabbage. - - -CABBAGE, LARGE WHITE.--In the West of England cabbages grow to an immense -size, owing, probably, to the moist heat, and have been exhibited in -agricultural shows over twenty pounds in weight and as big as an eighteen -gallon cask. These cabbages are best boiled as follows:--After being cut -up and thoroughly washed, it will be found that the greater part of the -cabbage resembles what in ordinary cabbage would be called stalk, and, of -course, the leaves vary very considerably in thickness from the hard stalk -end up to the leaf. Have plenty of boiling water ready salted, now cut off -the stalk part where it is thickest and throw this in first. Wait till the -water comes to the boil again and let it boil for a few minutes. Then -throw in the next thickest part and again wait till the water re-boils, and -so on, reserving the thin leafy part to be thrown in last of all. By this -means, and this only, do we get the cabbage boiled uniformly. Had we -thrown in all at once one of two things would be inevitable--either the -stalk would be too hard to be eaten or the leafy part over-boiled. A large -white cabbage takes about an hour to boil tender, and a piece of soda -should be added to the water. When the cabbage is well drained, it can be -served either plain or moistened, and made to look oily by the addition of -a piece of butter. As the cabbage is very white, the dish is very much -improved by the addition of a little chopped parsley sprinkled over the -top, not for the sake of flavour but appearance. - - -CABBAGE AND CREAM.--Ordinary cabbages are sometimes served stewed with a -little cream. They should be first parboiled, then the moisture squeezed -from them, and then they must be put in a stew-pan with a little butter, -pepper, salt and nutmeg, and a spoonful of flour should be shaken over the -cabbage in order to prevent the butter being too oily. When the cabbage is -stewed till it is perfectly tender, add a few spoonfuls of cream, stir up, -and make the whole thoroughly hot, and serve with fried or toasted bread. - - -CABBAGE, RED.--Red cabbages are chiefly used for pickling. They are -sometimes served fresh. They should be cut across so that the cabbage -shreds, boiled till they are tender, the moisture thoroughly extracted, and -then put into a stew-pan with a little butter, pepper, and salt, and a few -shakes of flour from the flour-dredger. After stirring for ten minutes or -a quarter of an hour, squeeze the juice of a lemon over them and serve. - - -CARROTS, BOILED.--When carrots are boiled and served as a course by -themselves, they ought to be young. This dish is constantly met with -abroad in early summer, but is rarely seen in England, except at the tables -of vegetarians. The carrots should be trimmed, thoroughly washed, and, if -necessary, slightly scraped, and the point at the end, which looks like a -piece of string, should be cut off. They should be thrown into fast -boiling water (salted) in order to preserve their colour. When tender they -can be served with some kind of good white sauce, or sauce Allemande or -Dutch sauce. Perhaps this latter sauce is best of all, as it looks like -rich custard. Part of the red carrot should show uncovered by any sauce. -They are best placed in a circle and the thick sauce poured in the centre; -a very little chopped blanched parsley can be sprinkled on the top of the -sauce. In making Dutch sauce for carrots use lemon-juice instead of -tarragon vinegar. - - -CARROTS, FRIED.--Fried carrots can be made from full-grown carrots. They -must be first parboiled and then cut in slices; they must then be dipped in -well-beaten-up egg, and then covered with fine dry bread-crumbs and fried a -nice brown in smoking hot oil in a frying-basket. The slices of carrot -should be peppered and salted before being dipped in the egg. - - -CARROTS, MASHED.--When carrots are very old they are best mashed. Boil -them for some time, then cut them up and rub them through a wire sieve. -They can be pressed in a basin and made hot by being steamed. A little -butter, pepper and salt should be added to the mixture. A very pretty dish -can be made by means of mixing mashed carrots with mashed turnips. They -can be shaped in a basin, and with a little ingenuity can be put into red -and white stripes. The effect is something like the top of a striped tent. - - -CAULIFLOWER, PLAIN BOILED.--Cauliflowers can be treated in exactly the same -manner as brocoli, and there are very few who can tell the difference. -(_See_ BROCOLI.) - - -CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN.--This is a very nice method of serving cauliflower -as a course by itself. The cauliflower or cauliflowers should first be -boiled till thoroughly tender, very carefully drained, and then placed -upright in a vegetable-dish with the flower part uppermost. The whole of -the flower part should then be _masked_ (_i.e._, covered over) with some -thick white sauce. Allemande sauce or Dutch sauce will do. This is then -sprinkled over with grated Parmesan cheese and the dish put in the oven for -the top to brown. As soon as it _begins_ to brown take it out of the oven -and finish it off neatly with a salamander (a red-hot shovel will do), the -same way you finish cheese-cakes made from curds. - - -CAULIFLOWER AND TOMATO SAUCE.--Boil and place the cauliflower or flowers -upright in a dish as in the above recipe. Now mask all the flower part -very neatly, commencing round the edges first, with some tomato conserve -previously made warm, and serve immediately. This is a very pretty-looking -dish. - - -CELERY, STEWED.--The secret of having good stewed celery is only to cook -the white part. Throw the celery into boiling water, with only sufficient -water just to cover it. When the celery is tender use some of the water in -which it is stewed to make a sauce to serve with it, or better still, stew -the celery in milk. The sauce looks best when it is thickened with the -yolks of eggs. A very nice sauce indeed can be made by first thickening -the milk or water in which the celery is stewed with a little white roux, -and then adding a quarter of a pint of cream boiled separately. Stewed -celery should be served on toast, like asparagus; a little chopped blanched -parsley can be sprinkled over the white sauce by way of ornament, and fried -bread should be placed round the edge of the dish. - -Stewed celery can also be served with sauce Allemande or Dutch sauce. - - -ENDIVE.--Endive is generally used as a salad, but is very nice served as a -vegetable, stewed. White-heart endives should be chosen, and several heads -will be required for a dish, as they shrink very much in cooking. Wash and -clean the endives very carefully in salt and water first, as they often -contain insects. Boil them in slightly salted water till they are tender, -then drain them off, and thoroughly extract the moisture; put them in a -stew-pan with a little butter, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, let them stew for -some little time; add the juice of a lemon, and serve. It will make the -dish much prettier if you reserve one head of endive boiled whole. Place -the stewed endive on a dish, and sprinkle some chopped blanched parsley -over it, then place the single head of endive upright in the centre, and -place some fried bread round the edge. - - -LEEKS, STEWED.--Leeks must be trimmed down to where the green part meets -the white on the one side, and the root, where the strings are, cut off on -the other. They should be thrown into boiling water, boiled till they are -tender, and then thoroughly drained. The water in which leeks have been -boiled is somewhat rank and bitter, and, as the leeks are like tubes, in -order to drain them perfectly you must turn them upside down. They can be -served on toast, and covered with some kind of white sauce, either ordinary -white sauce, sauce Allemande, or Dutch sauce. - - -LEEKS, WELSH PORRIDGE.--The leeks are stewed and cut in slices, and served -in some of the liquor in which they are boiled, with toast cut in strips, -something like onion porridge. Boil the leeks for five minutes, drain them -off, and throw away the first water, and then stew them gently in some -fresh water. In years back, in Wales, French plums were stewed with and -added to the porridge. - - -LETTUCES, STEWED.--As lettuces shrink very much when boiled, allowance must -be made, and several heads used. This is also a very good way of utilising -the large old-fashioned English lettuce resembling in shape a gingham -umbrella. They should be first boiled till tender. The time depends -entirely upon the size. Drain them off, and thoroughly extract the -moisture; put them into a stew-pan, with a little butter, pepper, salt, and -nutmeg. Let them stew some little time, and add a little vinegar, or, -still better, lemon-juice. - - -LETTUCES STEWED WITH PEAS.--A border of stewed lettuces can be made as -above, and the centre filled up with some fresh-boiled young green peas. - - -ONIONS, PLAIN BOILED.--When onions are served as a dish by themselves, -Spanish onions are far best for the purpose. Ordinary onions, as a rule, -are too strong to be eaten, except as an accompaniment to some other kind -of food. When onions are plain boiled, they are best served on dry toast -without any sauce at all. Butter can be added when eaten on the plate if -liked. Large Spanish onions will require about three hours to boil tender. - - -ONIONS, BAKED.--Spanish onions can be baked in the oven. They are best -placed in saucers, with a very little butter to prevent them sticking, with -which they can also be basted occasionally. Probable time about three -hours. They should be of a nice brown colour at the finish. - - -ONIONS, STEWED.--Place a large Spanish onion in a saucer at the bottom of -the saucepan, and put sufficient water in the saucepan to reach the edge of -the saucer; keep the lid of the saucepan on tight, and let it steam till -tender. A large onion would take about three hours. The water from the -onion will prevent the necessity of adding fresh water from time to time. - - -PARSNIPS.--Like young carrots, young parsnips are often met with abroad as -a course by themselves. They should be trimmed and boiled whole, and -served with white sauce, Allemande sauce, or Dutch sauce; a little chopped -blanched parsley should be sprinkled over the sauce, and fried bread served -round the edge of the dish. - - -PARSNIPS, FRIED.--Boil some full-grown parsnips till they are tender, cut -them into slices, pepper and salt them, dip them into beaten-up egg, and -cover them with bread-crumbs, and fry these slices in some smoking hot oil -till they are a nice brown colour. - - -PARSNIPS, MASHED.--When parsnips are very old they are best mashed. Boil -them for an hour or more, then cut them up and rub them through a wire -sieve. The stringy part will have to be left behind. Mix the pulp with a -little butter, pepper, and salt; make this hot, and serve. A little cream -is a great improvement. - - -PARSNIP CAKE.--Boil two or three parsnips until they are tender enough to -mash, then press them through a colander with the back of a wooden spoon, -and carefully remove any fibrous, stringy pieces there may be. Mix a -teacupful of the mashed parsnip with a quart of hot milk, add a teaspoonful -of salt, four ounces of fresh butter, half a pint of yeast, and enough -flour to make a stiff batter. Put the bowl which contains the mixture in a -warm place, cover it with a cloth, and leave it to rise. When it has risen -to twice its original size, knead some more flour into it, and let it rise -again; make it into small round cakes a quarter of an inch thick, and place -these on buttered tins. Let them stand before the fire a few minutes, and -bake them in a hot oven. They do not taste of the parsnip. Time, some -hours to rise; about twenty minutes to bake. - - -PEAS, GREEN.--By far the best and nicest way of cooking green peas when -served as a course by themselves is to stew them gently in a little butter -without any water at all, like they do in France. The peas are first -shelled, and then placed in a stew-pan with a little butter, sufficient to -moisten them. As soon as they are tender, which will vary with the size -and age of the peas, they can be served just as they are. The flavour of -peas cooked this way is so delicious that they are nicest eaten with plain -bread. When old peas are cooked this way it is customary to add a little -white powdered sugar. - - -PEAS, GREEN, PLAIN BOILED.--Shell the peas, and throw them into boiling -water slightly salted. Keep the lid off the saucepan and throw in a few -sprigs of fresh green mint five minutes before you drain them off. Young -peas will take about ten to twenty minutes, and full-grown peas rather -longer. Serve the peas directly they are drained, as they are spoilt by -being kept hot. - - -PEAS, STEWED.--When peas late in the season get old and tough, they can be -stewed. Boil them for rather more than half an hour, throwing them first -of all into boiling water; drain them off, and put them into a stew-pan -with a little butter, pepper, and salt. Young onions and lettuces cut up -can be stewed with them, but young green peas are far too nice ever to be -spoilt by being cooked in this way. - - -SCOTCH KALE.--Scotch kale, or curly greens, as it is sometimes called in -some parts of the country, is cooked like ordinary greens. It should be -washed very carefully, and thrown into fast-boiling salted water. The -saucepan should remain uncovered, as we wish to preserve the dark green -colour. Young Scotch kale will take about twenty minutes to boil before it -is tender. When boiled, if served as a course by itself, it should be -strained off very thoroughly and warmed in a stew-pan with a little butter, -pepper, and salt. - - -SEA KALE.--Sea kale possesses a very delicate flavour, and in cooking it -the endeavour should be to preserve this flavour. Throw the sea kale when -washed into boiling water; in about twenty minutes, if it is young, it will -be tender. Serve it on plain dry toast, and keep all the heads one way. -Butter sauce, white sauce, Dutch sauce, or sauce Allemande can be served -with sea kale, but should be sent to table separate in a boat, as the -majority of good judges prefer the sea kale quite plain. - - -SPINACH.--The chief difficulty to contend with in cooking spinach is the -preliminary cleansing. The best method of washing spinach is to take two -buckets of water. Wash it in one; the spinach will float on the top whilst -the dirt settles at the bottom. Lift the spinach from one pail, after you -have allowed it to settle for a few minutes, into the other pail. One or -two rinsings will be sufficient. Spinach should be picked if the stalks -are large, and thrown into boiling water slightly salted. Boil the spinach -till it is tender, which will take about a quarter of an hour, then drain -it off and cut it very small in a basin with a knife and fork, place it -back in a saucepan with a little piece of butter to make it thoroughly hot, -put it in a vegetable dish and serve. - -Hard-boiled eggs cut in halves, or poached eggs, are usually served with -spinach. A little cream, nutmeg, and lemon-juice can be added. Many cooks -rub the spinach through a wire sieve. - - -VEGETABLE MARROW.--Vegetable marrows must be first peeled, cut open, the -pips removed, and then thrown into boiling water; small ones should be cut -into quarters and large ones into pieces about as big as the palm of the -hand. They take from fifteen to twenty minutes to boil before they are -tender. They should be served directly they are cooked and placed on dry -toast. Butter sauce or white sauce can be served with them, but is best -sent to table separate in a boat, as many persons prefer them plain. - - -VEGETABLE MARROWS, STUFFED.--Young vegetable marrows are very nice stuffed. -They should be first peeled very slightly and then cut, long-ways, into -three zigzag slices; the pips should be removed and the interior filled -with either mushroom forcemeat (_see_ MUSHROOM FORCEMEAT) or sage-and-onion -stuffing made with rather an extra quantity of bread-crumbs. The vegetable -marrow should be tied up with two separate loops of tape about a quarter of -the way from each end, and these two rings of tape tied together with two -or three separate pieces of tape to prevent them slipping off at the ends. -The forcemeat or stuffing should be made hot before it is placed in the -marrow. The vegetable marrow should now be thrown into boiling water and -boiled till it is tender, about twenty minutes to half an hour. Take off -the tape carefully, and be careful to place the marrow so that one half -rests on the other half, or else it will slip. - -N.B.--If you place the stuffing inside cold, the vegetable marrow will -break before the inside gets hot through. - - -TURNIPS, BOILED.--When turnips are young they are best boiled whole. Peel -them first very thinly, and throw them into cold water till they are ready -for the saucepan. Throw them into boiling water slightly salted. They -will probably take about twenty minutes to boil. They can be served quite -plain or with any kind of white sauce, butter sauce, sauce Allemande, or -Dutch sauce. In vegetarian cookery they are perhaps best served with some -other kind of vegetable. - - -TURNIPS, MASHED.--Old turnips are best mashed, as they are stringy. Boil -them till they get fairly tender; they will take from half an hour to two -hours, according to age; then rub them through a wire sieve and warm up the -pulp with a little milk, or still better, cream and a little butter; add -pepper and salt. - -N.B.--If the pulp be very moist let it stand and get rid of the moisture -gradually in a frying-pan over a very slack fire. - - -TURNIPS, ORNAMENTAL.--A very pretty way of serving young turnips in -vegetarian cookery is to cut them in halves and scoop out the centre so as -to form cups; the part scooped out can be mixed with some carrot cut up -into small pieces, and some green peas, and placed in the middle of a dish -in a heap; the half-turnips forming cups can be placed round the base of -the dish and each cup filled alternately with the red part of the carrot, -chopped small and piled up, and a spoonful of green peas. This makes a -very pretty dish of mixed vegetables. - - -TURNIP-TOPS.--Turnip-tops, when fresh cut, make very nice and wholesome -greens. They should be thrown into boiling water and boiled for about -twenty minutes, when they will be tender. They should then be cut up with -a knife and fork very finely and served like spinach. If rubbed through a -wire sieve and a little spinach extract mixed with them to give them the -proper colour, and served with hard-boiled eggs, there are very few persons -who can distinguish the dish from eggs and spinach. - - -VEGETABLE CURRY.--A border made of all kinds of mixed vegetables is very -nice sent to table with some good thick curry sauce poured in the centre. - - -NETTLES, TO BOIL.--The best time to gather nettles for eating purposes is -in the early spring. They are freely eaten in many parts of the country, -as they are considered excellent for purifying the blood. The young -light-green leaves only should be taken. They must be washed carefully and -boiled in two waters, a little salt and a very small piece of soda being -put in the last water. When tender, turn them into a colander, press the -water from them, put them into a hot vegetable-dish, score them across -three or four times, and serve. Send melted butter to table in a tureen. -Time, about a quarter of an hour to boil. - - -SALSIFY.--Scrape the salsify and throw it into cold water with a little -vinegar. Then throw it into boiling water, boil til tender, and serve on -toast with white sauce. Time to boil, about one hour. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -PRESERVED VEGETABLES AND FRUITS. - - -Vegetables and fruits are preserved in two ways. We can have them -preserved both in bottles and tins, but the principle is exactly the same -in both cases, the method of preservation being simply that of excluding -the air. We will not enter into the subject of how to preserve fruit and -vegetables, but will confine ourselves to discussing as briefly as possible -the best method of using them when they are preserved. - -Unfortunately there exists a very unreasonable prejudice on the part of -many persons against all kinds of provisions that are preserved in tins. -This prejudice is kept alive by stories that occasionally get into print -about families being poisoned by using tinned goods. We hear stories also -of poisoning resulting from using copper vessels. Housekeepers should -endeavour to grasp the idea that the evil is the result of their own -ignorance, and that no danger would accrue were they possessed of a little -more elementary knowledge of chemistry. If a penny be dipped in vinegar -and exposed to the air, and is then licked by a child, a certain amount of -ill effect would undoubtedly ensue, but it does not follow that we should -give up the use of copper money. So, too, if we use tinned goods, and -owing to our own carelessness or ignorance find occasionally that evil -results ensue, we should not give up the use of the goods in question, but -endeavour to find out the cause why these evil results follow only -occasionally. - -All good cooks know, or ought to know, that if they leave the soup all -night in a saucepan the soup is spoilt. Again, all housekeepers know that -although they have a metal tank, they are bound to have a wooden lid on -top, there being a law to this effect. The point they forget in using -tinned goods is this, so long as the air is excluded from the interior of -the tin no chemical action goes on whatever. When, therefore, they open -the tin, if they turn out the contents at once no harm can ensue. -Unfortunately, there are many thousands who will open a tin, take out what -they want, and _leave the remainder in the tin_. Of course, they have only -themselves to blame should evil result. - -Preserved vegetables are so useful that they are inseparable from civilised -cookery; for instance, what would a French cook do were he dependent for -his mushrooms upon these fresh grown in the fields? The standard dish at -vegetarian restaurants is mushroom pie, and, thanks to tinned mushrooms, we -can obtain this dish all the year round. In most restaurants peas are on -the bill of fare throughout the year. Were we dependent upon fresh grown -ones, this popular dish would be confined almost to a few weeks. - -In the case of preserved goods, tinned fruits are even more valuable than -tinned vegetables. Ripe apricots and peaches picked fresh from the tree -are expensive luxuries that in this country can only be indulged in by the -rich, whereas, thanks to the art of preserving, we are enabled to enjoy -them all the year round. We will run briefly through a few of the chief -vegetables and fruits, and give a few hints how to best use them. First of -all-- - - -ASPARAGUS, TINNED.--Place the tin in the saucepan with sufficient cold -water to cover it. Bring the water to a boil and let it boil for five -minutes; take out the tin and cut it open round the edge, as near to the -edge as possible, otherwise you will be apt to break the asparagus in -turning it out. Drain off the liquor and serve the asparagus on freshly -made hot toast. There is much less waste as a rule in tinned asparagus -than in that freshly cut. As a rule, you can eat nearly the whole of it. - - -PEAS, TINNED.--Put the tin before it is opened into cold water, bring the -water to a boil, and let it boil five minutes, or longer if the tin is a -large one. Cut open the tin at the top, pour out the liquor, and serve the -peas with a few sprigs of fresh mint, if it can be obtained, that have been -boiled for two or three minutes. Supposing the tin to contain a pint of -peas, add while the peas are thoroughly hot a brimming saltspoonful of -finely powdered sugar, and half a saltspoonful of salt. If the peas are to -be eaten by themselves, as is generally the case with vegetarians, add a -good-sized piece of butter. - - -FRENCH BEANS, TINNED.--These can be treated in exactly similar manner to -green peas, only, instead of adding mint, add a little chopped blanched -parsley; the same quantity of sugar and salt should be added as in the case -of peas. After the butter has melted, it is a great improvement, when the -beans are eaten as a course by themselves, with bread, if the juice of half -a lemon is added. - - -FLAGEOLETS, TINNED.--For this delicious vegetable, in England, we are -dependent upon tinned goods, as we cannot recall an instance in which they -can be bought freshly gathered. Warm up the beans in the tin by placing -the tin in cold water, bringing the water to a boil, and letting it boil -for five minutes. Drain off the liquor, add a saltspoonful of sugar, half -a one of salt, and a lump of butter. Instead of butter, you can add to -each pint two tablespoonfuls of pure olive oil. Many persons consider it a -great improvement to rub the vegetable-dish with a bead of garlic. In this -case the beans should be tossed about in the dish for a minute or two. - - -BRUSSELS SPROUTS, TINNED.--The tin should be made hot before it is opened, -the liquor drained off, and the sprouts placed in a dish, with a little -butter or oil, powdered sugar, salt, pepper, and a slight flavouring of -nutmeg. In France, in some parts, a little cream is poured over them. - - -SPINACH, TINNED.--Spinach is sold in tins fairly cheap, and, quoting from -the list of a large retail establishment where prices correspond with those -of the Civil Service Stores, a tin of spinach can be obtained for -fivepence-halfpenny. The spinach should be made very hot in the tin, -turned out on to a dish, and hard-boiled eggs, hot, cut in halves, added. -Some people add also a little vinegar, but, unless persons' tastes are -known beforehand, that is best added on the plate. - - -CARROTS, TINNED.--Young carrots can be obtained in tins, and, as only young -carrots are nice when served as a course by themselves, these will be found -a valuable addition to the vegetarian store-cupboard. Make the carrots hot -in the tin, and let the water boil, for quite ten minutes after it comes to -the boiling point. Drain off the liquor, and serve them with some kind of -white sauce exactly as if they were freshly boiled young carrots. - - -TURNIPS, TINNED.--Proceed exactly the same as in the case of carrots. - - -FOND D'ARTICHOKE.--These consist of the bottom part only of French -artichokes. They should be made hot in the tin, and served up with some -good butter sauce, and cut lemon separate, as many prefer the artichokes -plain. - - -MACEDOINES.--This, as the word implies, is a mixture of various vegetables, -the chief of which are generally chopped-up carrot and turnip with young -green peas. A very nice dish which can be served at a very short notice, -if you have curry sauce in bottles, is a dish of vegetable curry. The -macedoines should be made hot in the tin, the liquor drained off, and the -curry sauce, made hot, should be poured into a well made in the centre of -the macedoines in the dish. Macedoines are also very useful, as they can -be served as a vegetable salad at a moment's notice, as the vegetables are -sufficiently cooked without being made hot. - - -TINNED FRUITS.--Tinned fruits are ready for eating directly the tin is -opened. All we have to bear in mind is to turn them all out of the tin on -to a dish immediately. Do not leave any in the tin to be used at another -time. Most tinned fruits can be served just as they are, in a glass dish, -but a great improvement can be made in their appearance at a very small -cost and with a very little extra trouble if we always have in the house a -little preserved angelica and a few dried cherries. As these cost about a -shilling or one and fourpence per pound, and even a quarter of a pound is -sufficient to ornament two or three dozen dishes, the extra expense is -almost nil. - - -APRICOTS, TINNED.--Pile the apricots up, with the convex side uppermost, in -a glass dish, reserving one cup apricot to go on the top, with the concave -side uppermost. Take a few preserved cherries, and cut them in halves, and -stick half a cherry in all the little holes or spaces where the apricots -meet. Cut four little green leaves out of the angelica about the size of -the thumb-nail, only a little longer; the size of a filbert would perhaps -describe the size better. Put a whole cherry in the apricot cup at the -top, and four green leaves of angelica round it. Take the white kernel of -the apricot--one or two will always be found in every tin--and cut four -white slices out of the middle, place these round the red cherry, touching -the cherry, and resting between the four green leaves of angelica; the top -of this dish has now the appearance of a very pretty flower. - - -PEACHES, TINNED.--These can be treated in exactly a similar way to the -apricots. - - -PEACHES AND APRICOTS, WITH CREAM.--Place the fruit in a glass dish, with -the concave side uppermost; pour the syrup round the fruit, and with a -teaspoon remove any syrup that may have settled in the little cups, for -such the half-peaches or apricots may be called. Get a small jar of -Devonshire clotted cream; take about half a teaspoonful of cream, and place -it in the middle of each cup, and place a single preserved cherry on the -top of the cream. This dish can be made still prettier by chopping up a -little green angelica, like parsley, and sprinkling a few of these little -green specks on the white cream. - - -PINE-APPLE, TINNED.--Pine-apples are preserved in tins whole, and are very -superior in flavour to those which are sold cheap on barrows, which are -more rotten than ripe. They require very little ornamenting, but the top -is greatly improved by placing a red cherry in the centre, and cutting -eight strips of green angelica like spikes, reaching from the cherry to the -edge of the pine-apple. They should be cut in exact lengths, so as not to -overlap. The top of the pine-apple looks like a green star with a red -centre. - - -PEARS, TINNED.--Tinned pears are exceedingly nice in flavour, but the -drawback to them is their appearance. They look like pale and rather dirty -wax, while the syrup with which they are surrounded resembles the water in -which potatoes have been over-boiled. The prettiest way of sending them to -table is as follows:--Take, say a teacupful of rice, wash it very -carefully, boil it, and let it get dry and cold. Take the syrup from the -pears and taste it, and if not sweet enough add some powdered sugar. Put -the rice in a glass dish, and make a very small well in the centre, and -pour all the syrup into this, so that it soaks into the rice at the bottom -of the dish without affecting the appearance of the surface. In the -meantime, place the pears themselves on a dish, and let the syrup drain off -them, and if you can let them stand for an hour or two to let them dry all -the better. Now, with an ordinary brush, paint these waxy-looking pears a -bright red with a little cochineal, and place these half-pears on the white -rice, slanting, with the thick part downwards and the stalk end uppermost. -Cut a few sticks of green angelica about an inch and a half long and of the -thickness of the ordinary stalk of a pear, and stick one of these into the -stalk end of each pear. The red pear, with the green stalk resting on the -snow-white bed of rice, looks very pretty. A little chopped angelica can -be sprinkled over the white rice, like chopped parsley. - - -FRUITS, BOTTLED.--When apricots and peaches are preserved in bottles, they -can be treated exactly in a similar manner to those preserved in tins. It -will be found advisable, however, to taste the syrup in the bottle, as it -will be often found that it requires the addition of a little more sugar. -Ordinary bottled fruits, such as gooseberries, currants, raspberries, -rhubarb, damsons, cranberries, etc., can be used for making fruit pies, or -they can be sent to table simply as stewed fruit. In this case some -whipped cream on the top is a very great improvement. Another very nice -way of sending these bottled fruits to table is to fill a border made with -rice, as described in Chapter III. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -JELLIES (VEGETARIAN) AND JAMS. - - -By vegetarian jelly we mean jellies made on vegetarian principles. To be -consistent, if we cannot use anchovy sauce because it is made from fish, on -the same principle we cannot use either gelatine or isinglass, which, of -course, as everybody knows, is made from fishes. For all this, there is no -reason why vegetarians should not enjoy jellies quite equal, so far as -flavour is concerned, to ordinary jelly. The simplest substitute for -gelatine, or what is virtually the same thing, isinglass, is corn-flour. -Tapioca could be used, but corn-flour saves much trouble. Some persons may -urge that it is not fair to give the name of jelly to a corn-flour pudding. -There is, however, a very great difference between a corn-flour pudding -flavoured with orange, and what we may call an orange jelly, in which -corn-flour is only introduced, like gelatine, for the purpose of -transforming a liquid into a solid. - -We also have this advantage in using corn-flour: it is much more simple and -can be utilised for making a very large variety of jellies, many of which, -probably, will be new even to vegetarians themselves. We are all agreed on -one point, _i.e._, the wholesomeness of freshly picked ripe fruit. We will -suppose the season to be autumn and the blackberries ripe on the hedgerows, -and that the children of the family are nothing loth to gather, say, a -couple of quarts. We will now describe how to make a mould of-- - - -BLACKBERRY JELLY.--Put the blackberries in an enamelled saucepan with a -little water at the bottom, and let them stew gently till they yield up -their juice, or they can be placed in a jar in the oven. They can now be -strained through a hair sieve, but, still better, they can be squeezed dry -in a tamis cloth. This juice should now be sweetened, and it can be made -into jelly in two ways, both of which are perfectly lawful in vegetarian -cookery. The juice, like red currant juice, can be boiled with a large -quantity of white sugar till the jelly sets of its own accord; in this case -we should require one pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and the result -would be a blackberry jelly like red currant jelly, more like a preserve -than the jelly we are accustomed to eat at dinner alone. For instance, no -one would care to eat a quantity of red currant jelly like we should -ordinary orange or lemon jelly--it would be too sickly; consequently we -will take a pint or a quart of our blackberry juice only and sufficient -sugar to make it agreeably sweet without being sickly. We will boil this -in a saucepan and add a tablespoonful of corn-flour mixed with a little -cold juice to every pint to make the juice thick. This can be now poured -into a mould or plain round basin; we will suppose the latter. When the -jelly has got quite cold we can turn it out on to a dish, say a silver -dish, with a piece of white ornamental paper at the bottom. We now have to -ornament this mould of blackberry jelly, and, as a rule, it will be found -that no ornament can surpass natural ones. Before boiling the blackberries -for the purpose of extracting their juice, pick out two or three dozen of -the largest and ripest, wash them and put them by with some of the young -green leaves of the blackberry plant itself, which should be picked as -nearly as possible of the same size, and, like the blackberries, must be -washed. Now place a row of blackberry leaves round the base of the mould, -with the stalk of the leaf under the mould, and on each leaf place a ripe -blackberry touching the mould itself. Take four very small leaves and -stick them on the top of the mould, in the centre, and put the largest and -best-looking blackberry of all upright in the centre. This dish is now -pretty-looking enough to be served on really great occasions. We consider -this dish worthy of being called blackberry jelly, and not corn-flour -pudding. - - -LEMON JELLY.--Take six lemons and half a pound of sugar, and rub the sugar -on the outside of three of the lemons; the lemons must be hard and yellow, -the peel should not be shrivelled. Now squeeze the juice of all six lemons -into a basin, add the sugar and a pint of water. Of course, the -lemon-juice must be strained. (If wine is allowed, add half a pint of good -golden sherry or Madeira.) Bring this to the boil and thicken it with some -corn-flour in the ordinary way, allowing a tablespoonful of corn-flour for -every pint of fluid. Pour it into a mould and when it is set turn it out. -A lemon jelly like this should be turned on to a piece of ornamental paper -placed at the bottom of a silver or some other kind of dish. The base of -the mould should be ornamented with thin slices of lemon cut in half, the -diameter touching the base of the mould and the semicircular piece of peel -outside. If a round basin has been used for a mould, place a corner of a -lemon on the top in the middle, surrounded with a few imitation green -leaves cut out of angelica. This improves the dish in appearance and also -shows what the dish is made of. - - -ORANGE JELLY.--Take six oranges, two lemons, and half a pound of lump -sugar; rub the sugar on the outside of three of the oranges, squeeze the -juice of the six oranges into a basin with the juice of two lemons, strain, -add the sugar and a pint of water. The liquid will be of an orange colour, -owing to the rind of the orange rubbed on to the sugar. (If wine be -allowed, add half a pint of golden sherry or Madeira.) Bring the liquid to -boiling point and then thicken it with corn-flour, and pour it while hot -into a mould or plain white basin; when cold, turn it out on to a piece of -ornamental paper placed at the bottom of a dish; surround the bottom of the -mould with thin slices of orange cut into quarters and the centre part -pushed under the mould; place the small end of an orange on the top of the -mould with some little leaves or spikes of green angelica placed round the -edge. - - -BLACK CURRANT JELLY.--The juice of black currants makes excellent jelly in -the ordinary way if we boil a pint of black currant juice with a pound of -sugar till it sets; but a mould of black currant jelly suitable to be used -as a sweet at dinner can be made by adding less sugar and thickening the -juice with corn-flour, allowing about a tablespoonful to every pint, and -pouring it into a mould or plain round basin. The mould can be ornamented -as follows, and we will suppose a pudding-basin to be used for the purpose. -We will suppose the mould of jelly to have been turned out on to a clean -sheet of white paper. Pick some of the brighter green black-currant leaves -off the tree, and place these round the base of the mould with the stalk of -the leaf pushed underneath and the point of the leaf pointing outwards. -Now choose a few very small bunches of black currants, wash these and dip -them into very weak gum and water, and then dip them into white powdered -sugar. They now look, when they are dry, as if they were crystallised or -covered with hoar-frost. Place one of these little bunches, with the stalk -stuck into the mould of jelly, about an inch from the bottom, so that each -bunch rests on a green leaf. Cut a small stick of angelica and stick it -into the top of the mould upright, and let a bunch of frosted black -currants hang over the top. If we wish to make the mould of jelly very -pretty as a supper dish, where there is a good top light, we can dip the -green leaves into weak gum and water and then sprinkle over them some -powdered glass. - - -RED CURRANT JELLY.--Red currant jelly can be made in exactly a similar -manner, substituting red currants for black. - - -RASPBERRY JELLY.--The raspberries should be picked very ripe, and two or -three dozen of the best-looking ones of the largest and ripest should be -reserved for ornamenting. If possible, also gather some red currants and -mix with the raspberries, on account of the colour, which otherwise would -be very poor indeed. It will be found best to rub the raspberries through -a hair sieve, as the addition of the pulp very much improves the flavour of -the jelly. The sieve should be sufficiently fine to prevent the pips of -the raspberries passing through it. The juice and pulp from the -raspberries and currants can now be thickened with corn-flour as directed -in the recipe for blackberry jelly. Raspberry leaves should be placed -round the base of the jelly and a ripe raspberry placed on each. The -best-looking raspberry can be placed on the top of the mould in the centre -of two or three raspberry leaves stuck in the jelly. - - -APPLE JAM AND APPLE JELLY.--The following recipe is taken from "A Year's -Cookery," by Phyllis Brown:--"The best time for making apple jelly is about -the middle of November. Almost all kinds of apples may be used for the -purpose, though, if a clear white jelly is wanted, Colvilles or -orange-pippins should be chosen; if red jelly is preferred, very -rosy-cheeked apples should be taken, and the skins should be boiled with -the fruit. Apple jam is made of the fruit after the juice has been drawn -off for jelly. Economical housekeepers will find that very excellent jelly -can be made of apple parings, so that where apples in any quantity have -been used for pies and tarts the skins can be stewed in sufficient water to -cover them, and when the liquor is strongly flavoured it can be strained -and boiled with sugar to a jelly. To make apple jelly, pare, core and -slice the apples and put them into a preserving-pan with enough water to -cover them. Stir them occasionally and stew gently till the apples have -fallen, then turn all into a jelly-bag and strain away the juice, but do -not squeeze or press the pulp. Measure the liquid and allow a pound of -sugar to a pint of juice. Put both juice and sugar back into the -preserving-pan, and, if liked, add one or two cloves tied in muslin, or two -or three inches of lemon-rind. Boil gently and skim carefully for about -half an hour, or till a little of the jelly put upon a plate will set. -Pour it while hot into jars, and when cold and stiff cover down in the -usual way. If yellow jelly is wanted a pinch of saffron tied in muslin -should be boiled with the juice. To make apple jam, weigh the apple pulp -after the juice has been drawn from it, rub it through a hair sieve, and -allow one pound of sugar to one pint of pulp, and the grated rind of a -lemon to three pints of pulp. Boil all gently together till the jam will -set when a little is put on a plate. Apple jam is sometimes flavoured with -vanilla instead of lemon." - - -DAMSON JELLY.--Damson jelly can be made in two ways. The juice can be -boiled with sugar till it gets like red currant jelly, or the juice of the -damsons can be sweetened with less sugar and thickened with corn-flour. In -order to extract the juice from damsons they should be sliced and placed in -a jar or basin and put in the oven. They are best left in the oven all -night. If the mould of jelly is made in a round basin, a single whole -damson can be placed on the top of the mould and green leaves placed round -the base. - - -PINE-APPLE JELLY.--The syrup from a preserved pine, should the pine-apple -itself be used for mixing with other fruits, or for ornamental purposes, -can be utilised by being made into a mould of jelly and by being thickened -with corn-flour. It will bear the addition of a little water. - - -APRICOT JELLY.--The juice from tinned apricots can be treated like that of -pine-apple. When a mixture of fruits is served in a large bowl, the syrup -from tinned fruits should not be added, but at the same time, of course, -should be used in some other way. - - -MULBERRY JELLY.--Mullberries, of course, would not be bought for the -purpose, but those who possess a mulberry tree in their garden will do well -to utilise what are called windfalls by making mulberry jelly. The juice -can be extracted by placing the fruit in a jar and putting it in the oven; -sugar must be added, and the juice thickened with corn-flour. There are -few other ways of using unripe mulberries. - - -JAMS.--Home-made jam is not so common now as it was some years back. As a -rule, it does not answer from an economical point of view to _buy_ fruit to -make jam. On the other hand, those who possess a garden will find -home-made jam a great saving. Those who have attempted to sell their fruit -probably know this to their cost. In making every kind of jam it is -essential the fruit should be picked dry. It is also a time-honoured -tradition that the fruit is best picked when basking in the morning sun. -It is also necessary that the fruit should be free from dust, and that all -decayed or rotten fruit should be carefully picked out. - -Jam is made by boiling the fruit with sugar, and it is false economy to get -common sugar; cheap sugar throws up a quantity of scum. Years back many -persons used brown sugar, but in the present day the difference in the -price of brown and white sugar is so trifling that the latter should always -be used for the purpose. The sugar should not be crushed. It is best to -boil the fruit before adding the sugar. The scum should be removed, and a -wooden spoon used for the purpose. A large enamel stew-pan can be used, -but tradition is in favour of a brass preserving-pan. It will be found -best to boil the fruit as rapidly as possible. The quantity of sugar -varies slightly with the fruit used. Supposing we have a pound of fruit, -the following list gives what is generally considered about the proper -quantity of sugar - -APRICOT JAM.--Three-quarters of a pound. - -BLACKBERRY JAM.--Half a pound; if apple is mixed, rather more. - -BLACK CURRANT JAM.--One pound. - -RED CURRANT JAM.--One pound. - -DAMSON JAM.--One pound. - -GOOSEBERRY JAM.--Three-quarters of a pound. - -GREENGAGE JAM.--Three-quarters of a pound. - -PLUM JAM.--One pound. - -RASPBERRY JAM.--One pound. - -STRAWBERRY JAM.-Three-quarters of a pound. - -CARROT JAM.--If you wish the jam to be of a good colour, only use the -outside or red part of the carrots. Add the rind and the juice of one -lemon, and one pound of sugar to every pound of pulp; a little brandy is a -great improvement. - -RHUBARB JAM.--To every pound of pulp add three-quarters of a pound of -sugar, and the juice of one lemon and the rind of half a lemon. Essence of -almonds can be substituted for the lemon. - -VEGETABLE MARROW JAM.--Add three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every -pound of pulp. The jam can be flavoured either with ginger or lemon-juice. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -CREAMS, CUSTARDS, AND CHEESE-CAKES. - - -CREAMS.--Creams may be divided into two classes--whipped cream, flavoured -in a variety of ways, and the solid moulds of cream, which when turned out -look extremely elegant, but which when tasted are somewhat disappointing. -These latter moulds owe their firmness and consistency to the addition of -isinglass, and, as this substance is not allowed in vegetarian cookery, we -shall be able to dispense with cream served in this form, nor are we losers -by so doing. The ordinary mould of cream is too apt to taste like spongy -liver, and, so far as palate is concerned, is incomparably inferior to the -more delicate whipped creams. Just in the same way a good rich custard -made with yolks of eggs is spoilt by being turned into a solid custard by -the addition of gelatine. In order to have good whipped cream, the first -essential is to obtain pure cream. This greatly depends upon the -neighbourhood in which we live. In country houses, away from large towns, -there is as a rule no trouble, whereas in London really good cream can only -be obtained with great difficulty. There is a well-known old story of the -London milkman telling the cook who complained of the quality of the cream -to stir it up, as the cream settled at the bottom. We will not enter into -the subject of the adulteration of cream in big cities, as probably many of -these stories are gross exaggerations, though it is said that pigs' brains -and even horses' brains have been used for the purpose of giving the cream -a consistency, while undoubtedly turmeric has been used to give it a -colour. - -We will suppose that we have, say, a quart of really good thick cream. All -that is necessary is to beat up the cream with a whisk till it becomes a -froth. This is much more easily done in cold weather than in hot, and, if -the weather be very warm, it is best to put the tin or pan containing the -cream into ice an hour or two before it is used. Old French cookery-books -recommend the addition of a little powdered gum, not bigger than a pea, and -the gum recommended is that known as tragacanth. Others again beat up the -white of an egg to a stiff froth, and add this to the cream. It is a good -plan when the cream fails to froth completely to take off the top froth and -drain it on a sieve placed upside down. The cream that drains through can -be added to what is left and re-whipped. It is also a good plan to make -whipped cream some time before it is wanted, and, indeed, it can be -prepared with advantage the day before. When the cream is drained (we are -supposing a quart to have been used) it should be mixed with three or four -ounces of very finely powdered sugar, as well as the particular kind of -flavouring that will give the cream its name. For instance, we can have, -if liqueurs are allowed-- - - -MARASCHINO CREAM.--This is simply made by mixing a small glass of -maraschino with some whipped cream, properly sweetened. - - -COFFEE CREAM.--Make a very strong infusion of pure coffee that has been -roasted a high colour. It will be found best to re-roast coffee berries in -the oven if you have not got a proper coffee-roaster. Pound the berries in -a pestle and mortar, or grind them very coarsely; then make a strong -infusion with a very small quantity of water, and strain it till it is -quite bright. This is mixed with the whipped sweetened cream. - - -CHOCOLATE CREAM.--Take about two ounces of the very best chocolate and -dissolve it in a little boiling water; let it get cold, and then mix with -the whipped sweetened cream. - - -VANILLA CREAM.--Vanilla cream is nicest when a fresh vanilla pod is used -for the purpose, but a more simple process is to use a little essence of -vanilla. - - -ORANGE CREAM.--Rub some lumps of sugar on the outside of an orange, and -pound this sugar very finely, and then mix it with the whipped cream. - - -LEMON CREAM.--Proceed exactly as in making orange cream, only substituting -lemon for orange. - - -STRAWBERRY CREAM.--The juice only of the strawberry should be used. This -juice should be mixed with the powdered sugar and then used for mixing with -the whipped cream. It is a mistake, in making creams, to have too much -flavouring. The juice of a quarter of a pound of ripe red strawberries -would be sufficient for a quart of cream. - - -PISTACHIO CREAM.--Take about half a pound of pistachio kernels, throw them -for a minute or two into boiling water, and then rub off the skins, -throwing them into cold water like you do in blanching almonds. Pound -these in a mortar with a tablespoonful of orange-flower water, and mix a -little spinach extract to give it a colour. Now mix this with the whipped -sweetened cream very thoroughly. This bright green cream makes a very -elegant dish. - - -CUSTARDS.--Good custard forms, perhaps, the best cold sweet sauce known. -It can be made very cheaply, and, on the other hand, it may be made in such -a manner as to be very expensive. We will first describe how to make the -most expensive kind of custard, as very often we can gather ideas from a -high-class model and carry them out in an inexpensive way. The highest -class custard is made by only using yolks of eggs instead of whole eggs, -and we can use cream in addition to milk. The great art in making custard -is to take care it does not curdle. Six yolks of eggs, half a pint of -milk, half a pint of cream, sweetened, would, of course, form a very -expensive custard. An ordinary custard can be made as follows:--Take four -large or five small eggs, beat them up very thoroughly, and add them -gradually to a pint of sweetened milk that has been boiled separately. In -order to thicken the custard, it is a good plan to put it in a jug and -stand the jug in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir the custard till it -is sufficiently thick. Custard can be flavoured in various ways. One of -the cheapest and perhaps nicest is to boil one or two bay-leaves in the -milk. Custard can also be flavoured by the addition of a small quantity of -the essence of vanilla; if you use a fresh pod vanilla, tie it up in a -little piece of muslin and have a string to it. This can be boiled in the -milk till the milk is sufficiently flavoured, and this pod can be used over -and over again. Of course, as it loses its flavour, it will have to remain -in the milk longer. - - -CHEAP CUSTARD.--A very cheap custard can be made by adding to one pint of -boiled milk one well-beaten-up egg and one good-sized teaspoonful of -corn-flour. The milk should be first sweetened, and can be flavoured very -cheaply by rubbing a few lumps of sugar on the outside of a lemon, or by -having a few bay-leaves boiled in it. A rich yellow colour can be obtained -by using a small quantity of yellow vegetable colouring extract, which, -like the green colouring, is sold in bottles by all grocers. These bottles -are very cheap, as they last a long time. They simply give any kind of -pudding a rich colouring without imparting any flavour whatever, and in -this respect are very superior to saffron. - - -APPLE CUSTARD.--Good apple custard can only be made by using apples of a -good flavour. When apples are in season, this dish can be made fairly -cheaply, but it does not do to use those high-priced imported apples. Peel -and take out the cores of about four pounds of apples, and let these simmer -till they are quite tender in rather more than a pint of water. Add about -one pound of sugar, or rather less if the apples are sweet; add a little -powdered cinnamon, and mix all this with eight eggs, well beaten up; stir -the mixture very carefully in a saucepan, or better still in a good-sized -jug placed in a saucepan, till it begins to thicken. This custard is best -served in glasses, and a little cinnamon sugar can be shaken over the top. -Nutmeg may be used instead of cinnamon, and by many is thought superior. - - -CHEESE-CAKES.--Cheese-cakes can be sent to table in two forms, the one some -rich kind of custard or cream placed in little round pieces of pastry, or -we can have a so-called cheese-cake baked in a pie-dish, the edges only of -which are lined with puff paste. We can also have cheese-cakes very rich -and cheese-cakes very plain. The origin of the name cheese-cake is that -originally they were made from curds used in making cheese. Probably most -people consider that the cheese-cakes made from curds are superior, and in -the North of England, and especially in Yorkshire, where curds are exposed -for sale in the windows at so much a pound, very delicious cheese-cakes can -be made, but considerable difficulty will be experienced if we attempt to -make home-made curds from London milk. Curds are made by taking any -quantity of milk and letting it nearly boil, then throw in a little rennet -or a glass of sherry. The curds must be well strained. - - -CHEESE-CAKES FROM CURDS.--Take half a pound of curds and press the curds in -a napkin to extract the moisture. Take also six ounces of lump sugar, and -rub the sugar on the outside of a couple of oranges or lemons. Dissolve -this sugar in two ounces of butter made hot in a tin in the oven; mix this -with the curds, with two ounces of powdered ratafias and a little grated -nutmeg--about half a nutmeg to this quantity will be required; add also six -yolks of eggs. Mix this well together, and fill the tartlet cases, made -from puff paste, and bake them in the oven. It is often customary to place -in the centre of each cheese-cake a thin strip of candied peel. As soon as -the cheese-cakes are done, take them out of the oven, and if the mixture be -of a bad colour finish it off with a salamander, but do not let them remain -in the oven too long, so that the pastry becomes brittle and dried up. -These cheese-cakes can be made on a larger scale than the ordinary one so -familiar to all who have looked into a pastry-cook's window. Suppose we -make them of the size of a breakfast saucer, a very rich and delicious -cheese-cake can be made by adding some chopped dried cherries to the -mixture. Sometimes ordinary grocer's currants are added and the ratafias -omitted. Sultana raisins can be used instead of currants, and by many are -much preferred. - -This mixture can be baked in a shallow pie-dish and time edge of the dish -lined with puff paste, but cheese-cakes made from curds are undoubtedly -expensive. - - -CHEESE-CAKES FROM POTATOES.--Exceedingly nice cheese-cakes can be made from -remains of cold potatoes, and can be made very cheap by increasing the -quantity of potatoes used. Take a quarter of a pound of butter, four eggs, -two fresh lemons, and half a pound of lump sugar. First of all rub off all -the outsides of two lemons on to the sugar; oil the butter in a tin in the -oven and melt the sugar in it; squeeze the juice of the two lemons, and -take care that the sugar is thoroughly dissolved before you begin to mix -all the ingredients together. Now beat up the eggs very thoroughly and mix -the whole in a basin. This now forms a very rich mixture indeed, a -good-sized teaspoonful of which would be sufficient for the interior of an -ordinary-sized cheese-cake, but a far better plan is to make a large -cheese-cake, or rather cheese-cake pudding, in a pie-dish by adding cold -boiled potatoes. The plainness or richness of the pudding depends entirely -upon the amount of potatoes added. The pie-dish can be lined with a little -puff paste round the edge, if preferred, or the pudding can be sent to -table plain. It should be baked in the oven till the top is nicely -browned. It can be served either hot or cold, but, in our opinion, is -nicer cold. If the lemons are very fresh and green--if the pudding is sent -to table _hot_--you will often detect the smell of turpentine. If a _large -quantity_ of potatoes is added more sugar will be required. - - -ORANGE CHEESE-CAKE.--Proceed exactly as above, only substituting two -oranges for two lemons. - - -ALMOND CHEESE-CAKES.--Proceed exactly as above, only instead of rubbing the -sugar on the outside of lemons add a small quantity of essence of almonds. - - -APPLE CHEESE-CAKES.--Apple cheese-cakes can be made in a similar manner to -apple custard, the only difference being that the mixture is baked till it -sets. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -STEWED FRUITS AND FRUIT ICES. - - -There are few articles of diet more wholesome than fruit, in every shape, -provided it is _fresh_. It is a great mistake, however, to suppose that -fruit, when too stale to be eaten as it is, is yet good enough for stewing. -We often hear, especially in summer weather, of persons being made ill from -eating fruit. Probably in every case the injury results, not from eating -fruit as fruit, but from eating it when it is too stale to be served as an -article of food at all. There is an immense amount of injury done to this -country by the importation of rotten plums, more especially from Germany, -and it is to be regretted that more stringent laws are not made to prevent -the importation of all kinds of food hurtful to health. - -We will suppose that in every recipe we are about to give the fruit is at -any rate fresh; we do not say ripe, because there are many instances in -which fruit not ripe enough to be eaten raw is exceedingly wholesome when -stewed properly and sweetened. As an instance we may mention green -gooseberries and hard greengages, which, though quite uneatable in their -natural state, yet make delicious fruit pies or dishes of stewed fruit. Of -all dishes there are few to equal what is called a compote of fruit, and -there are probably few sweets more popular than-- - - -COMPOTE OF FRUIT.--A compote of fruit consists of a variety of fresh fruits -mixed together in a bowl. Some may be stewed and some served in their -natural state, or the whole may be stewed. When a large variety of fruits -can be obtained, and are sent to table in an old-fashioned china family -bowl, few dishes present a more elegant appearance, especially if you -happen to possess an old-fashioned punch ladle, an old silver bowl with a -black whalebone handle. Care should be taken to keep the fruit from being -broken. The following fruits will mix very well, although, of course, it -is impossible always to obtain every variety. We can have strawberries, -raspberries, red, white, and black currants, and cherries, as well as -peaches, nectarines, and apricots. We can also have stewed apples and -stewed pears. Very much, of course, will depend upon the time of year. -Those fruits that want stewing should be placed in some hot syrup -previously made, and only allowed to stew till tender enough to be eaten. -Tinned fruits, especially apricots, can be mixed with fresh fruits, only it -is best not to use the syrup in the tin, as it will probably overpower the -flavour of the other fruits. The syrup, as far as possible, should be -bright and not cloudy. The fruit in the bowl should be mixed, but should -not be stirred up. We should endeavour as much as possible to keep the -colours distinct. If strawberries or raspberries form part of the compote, -the syrup will get red. Should black currants be present, avoid breaking -them, as they spoil the appearance of the syrup. In summer the compote of -fruits is much improved by the addition of a lump of ice and a glass of -good old brandy. Should the compote of fruits, as is often the case, be -intended for a garden party, where it will have to stand a long time, if -possible get a small bowl, like those in which gold and silver fish are -sold in the street for sixpence, and fill this with ice and place it in the -middle of the larger bowl containing fruit, otherwise the melted ice will -utterly spoil the juice that runs from the fruit, which is sweetened with -the syrup and flavoured with the brandy. If much brandy be added, old -ladies at garden parties will be found to observe that the juice is the -best part of it. - - -APPLES, STEWED.--Peel and cut out the cores of the apples, and stew them -gently in some syrup composed of about half a pound of white sugar and -rather more than a pint of water. A small stick of cinnamon, or a few -cloves, and a strip of lemon-peel can be added to the syrup, but should be -taken out when finished. The apples should be stewed till they are tender, -but must not be broken. The syrup in which the apples are stewed should of -course be served with them. This syrup can be coloured slightly with a few -drops of cochineal, but should not be coloured more than very slightly. -The syrup looks a great deal better if it is clear and bright. It can be -strained and clarified. Apples are very nice stewed in white French wine, -such as Chablis or Graves. - - -STEWED PEARS.--Pears known as cooking pears take a long time to stew. They -should be peeled and the cores removed, and then stewed very gently in a -syrup composed of half a pound of sugar to about a pint and a half of -water; add a few cloves to the syrup, say two cloves to each pear. The -pears will probably take from two to three hours to stew before they are -tender. When tender add a glass of port wine and a little cochineal. If -the pears are stewed, like they are abroad, in claret, add cinnamon instead -of the cloves. - - -STEWED RHUBARB.--Stewed rhubarb is of two kinds. When it first comes into -season it is small, tender, and of a bright red colour, and when stewed -makes a very pretty dish. The red rhubarb should be cut into little pieces -about two inches long. Very little water will be required, as the fruit -contains a great deal of water in itself. The amount of sugar added -depends entirely upon taste. The stewed rhubarb should be sent to table -unbroken, and floating in a bright red juice. - -When rhubarb is old and green it is best served more like a puree, or -mashed. Very old rhubarb is often stringy, and can with advantage be -rubbed through a wire sieve. It is no use attempting to colour old rhubarb -red, but you can improve its colour by the addition of a very little -spinach extract. A few strips of lemon-peel can be stewed with old -rhubarb, but should never be added to young red rhubarb. - - -GOOSEBERRIES, STEWED.--Young green gooseberries stewed, strange to say, -require less sugar than ripe gooseberries. It is best to stew the fruit -first, and add the sugar afterwards. The amount of sugar varies very much -with the quality of the gooseberries. - - -PRUNES, STEWED.--The prunes should be washed before they are stewed. They -will not take more than half an hour to stew, and a strip of lemon-peel -should be placed in the juice. Stewed prunes are much improved by the -addition of a little port wine. - - -PLUMS, STEWED.--Stewed plums, such as black, ordinary, or greengages, or -indeed any kind of stone fruit, can be stewed in syrup, and have this -advantage--plums can be used this way which could not be eaten at all if -they were raw. These fruits are much nicer cold than hot. In many cases, -in stewing stone fruit (and this applies particularly to peaches, apricots, -and nectarines), the stones should be removed and cracked and the kernels -added to the fruit. - - -CHERRIES, STEWED.--Large white-heart cherries form a very delicate dish -when stewed. Very little water should be added, and the syrup should be -kept as white as possible, and, if necessary, strained. Stew the cherries -till they are tender, but do not let them break. Colour the syrup with a -few drops of cochineal, and add a glass of maraschino. - - -ICES.--Ices are too often regarded as expensive luxuries, and show how -completely custom rules the majority of our housekeepers. There are many -houses where the dinner may consist daily of soup, fish, entrees, joint, -game, and wine, and yet, were we to suggest a course of ices, the worthy -housekeeper would hesitate on the ground of extravagance. It is difficult -to argue with persons whose definition of economy is what they have always -been accustomed to since they were children, and whose definition of -extravagance is anything new. The fact remains, however, that there is -many a worthy signor who sells ices in the streets at a penny each, and -manages to make a living out of the profit not only for himself, but for -his signora as well. Under these circumstances, the manufacture of these -"extravagances" is worthy of inquiry. Ices can be made at home very -cheaply with an ice machine, which can now be obtained at a, comparatively -speaking, small cost. With a machine there is absolutely no trouble, and -directions will be given with each machine, so that any details here, which -vary with the machine, will be useless. Ices can be made at home without a -machine with a little trouble, and, to explain how to do this, it is -necessary to explain the theory of ice-making, which is exceedingly simple. -We will not allude to machines dependent on freezing-powders, but to those -which rely for their cold simply on ice and salt mixed. We will suppose we -want a lemon-water ice, _i.e._, we have made some very strong and sweet -lemonade, and we want to freeze it. It is well known that water will -freeze at a certain temperature, called freezing-point. By mixing chopped -ice and salt and a very little water together, a far greater degree of cold -can be immediately produced, viz., a thermometer would stand at 32 degrees -below freezing-point were it to be plunged into this mixture. An ice -machine is a metal pail placed in another pail much larger than itself. -The "sweet lemonade" is placed in the middle pail, and chopped ice and salt -placed outside it. The proportion of ice to salt should be double the -weight of the former to the latter. It is now obvious that if we have -filled two pails, the one with "the sweet lemonade," and the other with the -ice and salt, very soon our lemonade will be a solid block of ice. To -prevent this it must be constantly stirred, and, as the lemonade would of -course freeze first against the sides of the pail, these sides must be -constantly scraped. Inside the inner pail, consequently, there is a -stirrer, which, by means of a handle, continually scrapes the side of the -pail. It is obvious that if the stirrer is fixed, and the pail itself made -to revolve, that is the same as if the pail were fixed and the stirrer made -to revolve. To make lemon-water ice, therefore, place the lemonade in the -inner pail, surrounded with chopped ice and salt, two parts of the former -to one of the latter, turn the handle, and in a few minutes the ice is -made. Now, suppose you have not got a machine, proceed as follows: Take an -empty, clean, round coffee-tin (the larger the better). [We mention -coffee-tin as the most probable one to be in the house, but any round tin -will do.] Get a clean piece of wood, the same width as the inside diameter -of the tin, only it must be a great deal longer. We will suppose the tin -rather more than a foot deep and five inches in diameter. Our piece of -wood, which should be clean and smooth, must be nearly five inches wide, -say a quarter of an inch thick, and about two feet long. Next get a small -tub, say nine inches deep, place the round tin in the middle, with the -sweet lemonade inside; next place the piece of wood upright in the tin, so -that the wood touches the bottom. Next surround the tin with chopped ice -and salt up to the edge of the tub, fill it as high as you can, and then -cover it round with a blanket, _i.e._, cover the ice and salt. Now get -someone to hold the wooden board steady; take the tin in your two hands, -and turn it round and round, first one way and then another. In a very -short time you will find the tin to contain lemon-water ice. The following -hints, rather than recipes, for making ices, _i.e._, for making the liquid, -which must be frozen as directed above, are given, not because they are the -best recipes, but because cream, which is the basis of all first-class -ices, is often too expensive to be used constantly. Of course, real cream -is far superior to any substitute. - - -ICE CREAM, CHEAP.--Make a custard (_see_ CUSTARD) with half a pint of milk, -the yolks of two eggs, and a tablespoonful of Swiss milk and some sugar. -As soon as it gets a little thick, stir it till it is nearly cold, then add -some essence of vanilla or almonds, or a wineglassful of noyeau, or any -flavouring wished, and freeze. - - -ICES FROM FRESH FRUITS.--Take half a pound of fresh strawberries or -raspberries, add half that weight of sugar, pound thoroughly, rub through a -sieve, and mix with this thick juice, rubbed through, half a pint of the -mixture made for ice cream (_see_ ICE CREAM, CHEAP), only, of course, -without any flavouring such as vanilla, etc. Mix thoroughly, and freeze. - -N.B.--A few red currants should be mixed with the raspberries. Should the -colour be poor, brighten it up before freezing with a little cochineal. - - -ICES FROM JAM.--Mix a quarter of a pound of any jam with half a pint of the -mixture made for ice cream (_see_ ICE CREAM, CHEAP), without any flavouring -such as vanilla. Rub all through a fine sieve, and freeze. Cochineal will -give additional colour to red jams; spinach extract to green jams; and a -very little turmeric, or yellow vegetable colouring, to yellow jams. A -small pinch of turmeric can be boiled in the milk. - - -ICE, LEMON-WATER.--Rub six lumps of sugar on the rind of six lemons, add -this and the juice of six lemons to a pint of fairly sweet syrup. The -amount of sugar is a matter of taste. Strain and freeze. Some persons add -a few drops of dilute sulphuric acid. - - -ICE, ORANGE-WATER.--Act exactly as in lemon-water, using oranges instead of -lemons, and syrup containing less sugar. - - -ICE, WATER FRUIT.--All sorts of water fruit ices can be made by mixing half -a pint of juice, such as currant-juice, with twice that quantity of syrup, -and freezing. Grated ripe pine-apple, pounded and bruised, ripe cherries -and greengages, strawberry-juice, raspberry-juice, can be mixed with syrup -and frozen. Sometimes a little lemon-juice can be added with advantage, -and in the case of cherry ice and greengage ice a little noyeau added is an -improvement. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - -CAKES AND BREAD. - - -In vegetarian cookery there is no difference, as far as cake-making is -concerned, between it and ordinary cookery. In making cakes we will -confine our attention chiefly to general principles which, if once known, -render cake-making of every description comparatively easy work. Those who -wish for detailed _recipes_ for making almost every kind of cake known will -find all that they require on a large scale in "Cassell's Dictionary of -Cookery," and also everything necessary on a smaller scale in "Cassell's -Shilling Cookery," which has already reached its hundred-thousandth -edition. - -Cakes may be divided into two classes--those that contain fruit and those -that do not. Plum cakes can be made very rich indeed, like a wedding cake, -or so plain that it can scarcely be distinguished from a loaf of bread with -a few currants in it. Again, cakes that contain no fruit can, at the same -time, be made exceedingly rich, the richness chiefly depending upon the -amount of butter and eggs that are used. We will first give a few -directions with regard to making what may be termed plain cakes, _i.e._, -cakes that contain no fruit at all. Perhaps the best model we can give to -illustrate the general principles will be that of a pound cake. The recipe -is a very easy one to recollect, as a pound cake means one that is made -from a pound of butter, a pound of sugar, a pound of eggs, and a pound of -flour. There is one addition, however, which the good plain cook will -probably not be up to, and which, so far as flavour is concerned, makes all -the difference between Francatelli and "Jemima Ann"--we must rub some of -the lumps of sugar on the outsides of either two oranges or two lemons. It -is also a great improvement to add a small glass of brandy, and in every -kind of cake we must add a pinch of salt. - -In making cakes it is always necessary to be careful about the butter. It -is best to put the butter in cold water before it is used, and, if salt -butter, it should be washed in several waters to extract the salt. The -next thing necessary is to beat the butter to a cream. To do this it must -be worked about in a basin with a wooden spoon. The basin should be a -strong one, and a wooden spoon is far preferable to a metal one. You -simply beat the butter and spread it against the sides of the basin and -knock it about till it loses its consistency. You cannot beat the butter -to the consistency of ordinary cream, but to a state more resembling -Devonshire clotted cream. Of course, when it is like this it is much more -easily mixed with the other ingredients. In making a pound cake we should -first of all beat the butter to a cream and then add flour, sugar, and eggs -gradually. When the whole is thoroughly well mixed together, we must bake -it in a tin, or mould, or hoop. We need say nothing about tins or moulds, -but will confine ourselves to giving directions how to bake a cake in a -hoop, for, as a rule, ordinary English cooks do not understand how to use -them. - -One great advantage of using a hoop is that when the cake is baked there is -no fear of breaking it in turning it out. A very simple hoop can be made -with an ordinary slip of tin, say six inches wide; as the tin will lap -over, the cake can be made any size round you wish. It is a good plan to -fasten a piece of copper wire round the outside of the tin. This can be -twisted, and when the cake is baked and has got cold can be untwisted, and -the tin will then open of its own accord. The tin must be lined with -buttered paper, and buttered paper must be placed on a flat piece of tin at -the bottom. When an "amateur hoop" is used like we have described, care -must be taken that the cake does not come out at the bottom. The cake, -especially when it is made with beaten-up eggs, like sponge cake, will -rise, and unless precautions are taken the tin will rise with it, and the -unset portion of the cake break loose round the edge at the bottom. To -prevent this the tin must be kept down with a weight at the top. In a -proper hoop made for the purpose there are appliances for fastening the -hoop together itself and also for keeping it in its place, but if we use a -strip of tin we must place something across the tin on the top and then put -on a heavy weight. When this is done, you must remember to allow room for -the cake to rise. A pound cake such as we have described can be made into -a rich fruit cake by adding stoned raisins, currants, chopped candied peel, -sultana raisins, or, better still, dried cherries. In making ordinary -cakes, when currants are used, they should be first washed and then dried; -if you use damp currants the cake will probably be heavy. - -With regard to the flour, it is cheapest in the end to use the best -quality, and the flour should be dried and sifted. If you weigh the flour -remember to dry and sift it before you weigh it, and not after. In using -sugar get the best loaf; this should also be pounded and sifted. - -In using eggs, of course each egg should be broken separately. Very often -it is necessary to separate the yolks from the whites. This requires some -little skill; you are less likely to break the yolk when you crack the egg -boldly. Put the yolk from one half egg-shell into the other half, spilling -as much of the white as you can. You will soon get the yolks separate. -Next, remember before mixing the eggs to remove the thread or string from -them. When the whites are beaten separately, you must whisk them till they -become a solid froth; no liquid should remain at the bottom of the basin. -The yolks should not be broken till they are wanted. - -Lemon-peel is often used in making cakes, and in chopping it a little -powdered sugar is a great assistance in preventing the peel sticking -together. Remember only to use the _yellow_ part, not the white. The -white part gives the cake a bitter flavour. - -Sometimes milk or cream is used in cake-making. If Swiss milk is used as a -substitute, remember that less sugar will be required. - -When pounded almonds are used for cakes, the almonds must be blanched by -being thrown, first into boiling water, and then into cold water. In -pounding them, add a little rose-water or orange-flower water, or the white -of an egg, to prevent the almonds getting oily. - -Nearly all plain cakes, where only a few eggs are used, will be made -lighter by the addition of a little baking-powder. A very good -baking-powder is made by mixing an ounce of tartaric acid with an ounce and -a half of bicarbonate of soda, and an ounce and a half of arrowroot. The -baking powder should be kept very dry. - -A very nice way of making home-made cakes is to use some dough, which can -be procured from the baker's. Suppose you have a quartern of dough, put it -in a basin, cover it over with a cloth, and put it in front of the fire to -rise, then spread it on a floured pastry-board, slice it up, and work in -half a pound of fresh butter, half a pound of moist sugar, six eggs, a -teaspoonful of salt, and half an ounce of caraway seeds. When all the -ingredients are thoroughly mixed, place them in two or more well-buttered -tins or hoops, and let them stand in front of the fire a little while -before they are placed in the oven. Cakes can be flavoured with a variety -of spices, such as cinnamon, mace, nutmeg, or powdered coriander seeds. -These last are always used to give a special flavour to hot cross buns. - - -BREAD.--Home-made bread is not so much used now as it was years back. Most -housekeepers have found by experience that it is a waste both of time and -money. There are very few houses among the middle classes which possess an -oven capable of competing with any chance of success with a baker's oven. -There are, however, many vegetarians who believe in what is called -whole-meal bread. A good deal of the whole-meal bread sold as such has -been found to be adulterated with substances very unwholesome to ordinary -stomachs. We may mention saw-dust as one of the ingredients used for the -purpose. Again, if you attempt to make whole-meal bread into loaves, you -will find great difficulty in baking the loaves. This whole-meal is a very -slow conductor of heat, and the result will probably be that the outside of -the loaf will be very hard while the inside will be too underdone to be -eaten. Consequently, should you wish to have home-made whole-meal bread, -it is far best to bake it in the form of a tea-cake or flat-cake. We -cannot do better, in conclusion, than quote what Sir Henry Thompson says on -this subject:--"The following recipe," he says, "will be found successful, -probably, after a trial or two, in producing excellent, light, friable, and -most palatable bread: To two pounds of coarsely ground or crushed -whole-meal, add half a pound of fine flour and a sufficient quantity of -baking powder and salt; when these are well mixed, rub in two ounces of -butter, and make into dough with half milk and water, or with all milk if -preferred. Make rapidly into flat cakes like 'tea-cakes,' and bake without -delay in a quick oven, leaving them afterwards to finish thoroughly at a -lower temperature. The butter and milk supply fatty matters, in which the -wheat is somewhat deficient; all the saline and mineral matters of the husk -are retained; and thus a more nutritive form of bread cannot be made. -Moreover, it retains the natural flavour of the wheat, in place of the -insipidity which is characteristic of fine flour, although it is -indisputable that bread produced from the latter, especially in Paris and -Vienna, is unrivalled for delicacy, texture, and colour. Whole meal may be -bought; but mills are now cheaply made for home use, and wheat may be -ground to any degree of coarseness desired." - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - -PIES AND PUDDINGS. - - -In vegetarian cookery, as a rule, pies and puddings are made in the same -way as in ordinary cookery, with the exception that we cannot use lard or -dripping in making our pastry. Nor are we allowed to use suet in making -crust for puddings. It would have been quite impossible to have given even -one quarter of the recipes for the pies and puddings known, and we must -refer those who wish for information on this subject to "Cassell's Shilling -Cookery," where will be found a very complete list, but which would have -occupied the whole of the space which we have devoted to recipes where -vegetarian cookery, as a rule, _differs_ from the ordinary. - -We will, on the present occasion, confine our attention to the two points -we have mentioned, viz., how to make pastry without lard or dripping, and -pudding crust without suet. The first of these two points causes no -difficulty whatever, as the best pastry, especially that known as puff -paste, is invariably made with butter only as the fatty element; but there -is one point we must not overlook. - -Vegetarians are divided into two classes: those who use the animal -products--butter, milk, cream, and eggs--and those who do not. This latter -class contains, probably, the most respected members of the vegetarian -body, as it will always be found that there is an involuntary homage paid -by all men to consistency. How then are strict vegetarians to make pastry, -butter being classed with the forbidden fruit? We fear we cannot tell them -how to make good puff paste; but "Necessity is the mother of invention," -and naturally olive oil must supply the place of butter. - - -PASTRY WITHOUT BUTTER.--We will describe how to make a small quantity, -which is always best when we make experiments. Take half a pound of the -best Vienna flour, and mix with it, while dry, about a salt-spoonful of -baking-powder. Now add about a tablespoonful of olive oil, and work the -oil and flour together with the fingers exactly as you work a small piece -of butter into the flour at the commencement of making puff paste. Next -add sufficient water to make the whole into an elastic paste; roll it out -and let it set between two tins containing ice, similar to the method used -in making high-class pastry. - -We have mentioned a tablespoonful of oil, but if ice is used more oil may -be added. - -We all know that oil will freeze at a much lower temperature than water, -consequently the minute particles of oil become partially solid. Now take -the paste, roll it out, and give it three turns; roll it out again, give it -three more turns, and put it back in the ice; let it stand ten minutes or a -quarter of an hour, and repeat this process three times. Be careful to -flour the pastry each time before it is turned. By this means we get the -pastry in thin layers, with minute air bubbles between them, and this will -cause the pastry to rise. If you are making a pie, roll out the pastry the -last time, cover the pie, and put it in the oven immediately, while the -pastry is cold. Do not let the pastry stand, unless it be in a very cold -place. - -This pastry we have just described, made with oil, can also be utilised for -puddings, in which latter case we would recommend the addition of a little -more baking-powder, and to every pound of flour add two tablespoonfuls of -very fine bread-crumbs. These must be dry, and rubbed through a fine -sieve. - - -PASTRY WITH BUTTER.--Good puff paste is made by taking equal quantities of -butter and flour--say a pound of each--the yolk of one egg, a pinch of -salt, while the water used is acidulated with lemon-juice. For the -manipulation of this pastry we must refer those who do not know how to make -it to other cookery books, or to the shilling one above mentioned. In -making ordinary paste we must use less butter; and when we use considerably -less butter, if we wish the pastry light, we shall require baking-powder. -The quantity depends very much upon the quality. Many persons make their -own baking-powder, and we cannot recommend any better than the recipe given -in the last chapter, viz., an ounce of tartaric acid, an ounce and a half -of bicarbonate of soda, and an ounce and a half of arrowroot. A great -deal, too, depends upon the quality of the flour. Vienna flour is much -more expensive than ordinary flour, but incomparably superior. What limit -we can assign to the quantity of butter used it is impossible to say. A -quarter of a pound of butter to a pound of flour, and a teaspoonful of -baking-powder, will make a fair crust. When less butter is used the result -is not altogether satisfactory. - - -PUDDINGS.--We next come to the very large class of puddings in which suet -is used. The ordinary plum pudding is a case in point. The best -substitute for suet, of course, is butter or oil; a plum pudding, however, -made without suet, would undoubtedly be heavy, and, to avoid this, we must -use butter, bread-crumbs, and baking-powder. It would be impossible to -give any exact quantity, as so much depends upon the other ingredients. -Some people use bread-crumbs only in making plum pudding, and no flour, in -which case, of course, a very considerable number of eggs must be used or -else the pudding will break to pieces. In the case, however, of oil being -used as a substitute for butter, it is of the utmost importance that the -oil be pure and fresh. We here have to overcome a deeply-rooted English -prejudice. Pure oil is absolutely tasteless, and it has often been -remarked by high-class authorities that really pure butter ought to be the -same. We fear, however, that purity in food is the exception rather than -the rule, as at no period of this country's history has the crime of -adulteration been so rampant as in the present day. - -Adulteration has been said to be another form of competition. Too often -adulteration is a deliberate form of robbery. Steps have been taken in -recent years to put a stop to this universal system of fraud, more -especially in connection with butter. Were more Acts passed similar to the -"Margarine Act" we believe that this country would be richer and happier, -and without doubt more healthy. - -In that large class of puddings known as custard pudding, cabinet pudding, -there is no difference whatever in vegetarian cookery. It would be quite -impossible to make any of these puddings without eggs, and when eggs are -used we may take for granted that butter is allowed also. - -We have, throughout, called particular attention to the importance of -appearances. In the case of all puddings made with eggs and baked in a -dish, it is a very great improvement to reserve one or two whites of egg, -and to beat these to a stiff froth, with a little white powdered sugar. -When the pudding is baked, cover it with this snow-white froth, and let it -set by placing it in a slack oven for two or three minutes. Whether the -pudding is served hot or cold, the result is the same. An otherwise plain -and somewhat common-looking dish is transformed into an elegant one, the -only extra expense being a little _trouble_. - -We may sum up our instructions to cooks in the words: "Whatsoever thy hand -findeth to do, do it with thy might." - - - - -INDEX. - - -Allemande Sauce, 44 - -Almond Cheesecakes, 170 - Fritters, 119 - Sauce, 44 - Sauce, Clear, 45 - Soup, 23 - -Apple Cheesecakes, 170 - Custard, 168 - Fritters, 118 Jam, 161 - Jelly, 161 - Sauce, 45 - Soup, 24 - -Apples, Stewed, 172 - -Apricot Fritters, 119 - Jam, 164 - Jelly, 163 - -Apricots Tinned, 155 - with Cream, 156 - -Aromatic Herbs, 32 - -Arrowroot Sauce, 45 - -Artichokes, French, 137 - a la Provencale, 137 - Boiled, 137 - Fried, 137 - Salad, 102 - -Artichoke, Jerusalem, 137 - Fried, 138 - Mashed, 138 - Sauce, 45 - Soup, 24 - -Asparagus and Eggs, 85 - Boiled, 139 - Salad, 101 - Sauce, 45 - Soup, 24 - Tinned, 153 - -Ayoli, 115 - - -Baking-Powder, 180 - -Banana Fritters, 119 - -Barley and Rice Porridge, 75 - Soup, 25 - -Batter for Fritters, 116 - -Beans, Broad, 139 - a la Bourgeoise, 139 - a la Poulette, 139 - Mashed, 139 - Salad, 103 - Soup, 27 - -Beans, French, 139 - Pudding, 140 - Salad, 102 - Soup, 27 - Tinned, 154 - -Beans, Haricot, 131 - Salad, 103 - Soup, Red, 26 - Soup, White, 26 - -Beetroot Salad, 102 - Soup, 26 - -Beurre Noir, 48 - -Blackberry Jam, 164 - Jelly, 158 - -Black Butter, 48 - and Eggs, 86 - -Black Currant Jam, 164 - Jelly, 160 - Sauce, 45 - -Bread, 180 - and Milk, 75 - Potato, 129 - Sauce, 45 - Whole-Meal, 180 - -Brocoli, 141 - Greens, 141 - -Brown Mushroom Sauce, 55 - Onion Sauce, 55 - -Brown Roux, 22 - Thickening, 22 - -Brussels Sprouts, 141 - Tinned, 154 - -Butter, Black, 48 - Maitre d'hotel, 53 - Melted, 48 - Oiled, 48 - Sauce, 46 - - -Cabbage, 142 - and Cream, 143 - and Rice, 63 - large White, 142 - Red, 143 - Soup, 27 - -Cakes, 177 - Parsnip, 147 - Pound, 179 - -Caper Sauce, 49 - -Carrot Jam, 164 - Sauce, 49 - Soup, 27 - -Carrots, Boiled, 143 - Fried, 144 - Mashed, 144 - Tinned, 154 - -Cauliflower and Tomato Sauce, 145 - au gratin, 144 - Boiled, 144 - Salad, 104 - Sauce, 49 - Soup, 28 - -Casseroles, 64 - -Celery and Eggs, 85 - Salad, 103 - Sauce, 49 - Soup, 29 - Stewed, 145 - -Cheesecakes, 165-168 - Almond, 170 - Apple, 170 - from Curds, 169 - Orange, 170 - Potato, 169 - -Cheese and Eggs, 89 - and Fried Bread, 113 - and Rice, 63 - Devilled, 114 - Fritters, 117 - -Cheese Ramequins, 114 - Sandwiches, 107 - Savoury, 113 - Souffle, 92 - Soup, 29 - Stewed, 114 - Straws, 114 - Toasted, 114 - -Cherry Sauce, 49 - Soup, 29 - -Cherries, Stewed, 174 - -Chestnut Sauce, 49 - Soup, 30 - -Chestnuts and Macaroni, 72 - -Chocolate Cream, 166 - Fritters, 119 - -Chutney Sauce, 53 - -Cinnamon Sauce, 49 - -Clear Soup, 30 - -Cocoanut Sauce, 49 - Soup, 31 - -Coffee Cream, 166 - Fritters, 119 - -Cottage Soup, 30 - -Cream and Macaroni, 73 - Cheese Sandwiches, 107 - Chocolate, 166 - Coffee, 166 - Fritters, 120 - Lemon, 166 - Maraschino, 166 - Orange, 166 - Pistachio, 167 - Strawberry, 167 - Vanilla, 166 - -Creams, 165 - -Croquettes, Potato, 127 - Rice, 65 - -Cucumber and Eggs, 88 - Salad, 102 - Sauce, 49 - -Currant Sauce, Black, 50 - Red, 50 - Black, Jam, 164 - Black, Jelly, 160 - Red, Jam, 164 - Red, Jelly, 161 - -Curried Eggs, 82 - Lentils, 136 - Rice 63 - Vegetables, 151 - -Curry Sauce, 50 - -Custard, Apple, 168 - Cheap, 168 - Fritters, 119 - -Custards, 167 - -Cutlets, Potato, 127 - - -Damson Jam, 164 - Jelly, 162 - -Dandelion Salad, 103 - -Devilled Cheese, 114 - Eggs, 82 - -Dutch Sauce, 51 - Green, 51 - - -Egg Balls, 83 - Forcemeat, 83 - Salad, 99 - Sandwiches, 106 - Sauce, 51 - Toast, 85 - -Eggs, 78 - a la bonne femme, 8 - a la Dauphine, 85 - a la tripe, 83 - and Asparagus, 85 - Black Butter, 86 - Celery, 85 - Cheese, 89 - Cucumber, 88 - Garlic, 86 - Mushrooms, 86 - Onions, 87 - Potatoes, 87 - Rice, 66 - Sauce Robert, 87 - Sorrel, 87 - Spinach, 85 - Turnip-tops, 85 - au gratin, 84 - Boiled, 78 - Hard, 81 - Broiled, 87 - Buttered, 88 - Curried, 82 - Devilled, 82 - Fried, 80 - in Sunshine, 88 - Little, 89 - Poached, 81 - Scrambled, 88 - To Break, 80 - -Endive, 145 - Salad, 100 - Soup, 31 - -English Salad, 97 - -Extract of Spinach, 25 - - -Fennel Sauce, 51 - -Flageolets, 133 - Tinned, 154 - -Fond d'Artichokes, 155 - -Forcemeat of Egg, 83 - of Mushroom, 110 - -Frangipane Fritters, 120 - -French Beans, 139 - Bean Salad, 102 - Soup, 27 - Pudding, 140 - Salad, 97 - -Fritters, 116 - Almond, 119 - Apple, 118 - Apricot, 119 - Banana, 119 - Batter for, 116 - Cheese, 117 - Chocolate, 119 - Coffee, 119 - Cream, 120 - Custard, 119 - Frangipane, 120 - Game, 117 - German, 121 - Ginger and Rice, 121 - Hominy, 117 - Mushroom, 116 - Orange, 120 - Pine Apple, 120 - Peach, 120 - Potato, 120 - Rice, 121 - Sage and Onion, 118 - Spinach, 118 - Sweet, 118 - Tomato, 117 - Vanilla, 119 - -Fruit, Compote of, 171 - Soup, 31 - Stewed, 171 - -Fruits, Bottled, 157 - Tinned, 155 - -Frumenty, 76 - - -Game Fritters, 117 - -Garlic and Eggs, 86 - -Garnish of Eggs, 89 - -German Fritters, 121 - Salad, 100 - Sauce, 51 - -Ginger Sauce, 52 - -Gooseberry Sauce, 52 - -Gooseberries, Stewed, 173 - -Green Bean Soup, 27 - Dutch Sauce, 51 - Mayonnaise Sauce, 54 - Pea Soup, Dried, 37 - Fresh, 38 - - -Hare Soup, 32 -Haricot Beans, 131 - Bean Salad, 103 - Soup, Red, 26 - White, 26 - -Herbaceous Mixture, 32 - -Herbs, Aromatic, 32 - -Hominy, 76 - Fried, 76 - Fritters, 117 - -Hop Salad, 104 - -Horseradish Sauce, 52 - -Hotch Potch, 32 - - -Ice Cream, 176 - Lemon Water, 176 - Orange Water, 176 - Water Fruit, 177 - -Ices, 174 - from Fresh Fruit, 176 - from Jams, 176 - -Indian Pickle Sauce, 53 - Sandwiches, 106 - -Italian Salad, 104 - Sauce, 53 - - -Jam Apple, 161 - Apricot, 164 - Blackberry, 164 - Black Currant, 164 - Carrot, 164 - Damson, 164 - Gooseberry, 164 - Greengage, 164 - Plum, 164 - Raspberry, 164 - Red Currant, 164 - Rhubarb, 164 - Strawberry, 164 - Vegetable Marrow, 164 - -Jams, 163 - -Jardiniere Soup, 33 - -Jellies, 158 - -Jelly, Apple, 161 - Apricot, 163 - Blackberry, 158 - Black Currant, 160 - Damson, 162 - Lemon, 159 - Mulberry, 163 - Orange, 160 - Pine Apple, 162 - Raspberry, 161 - Red Currant, 161 - -Julienne Soup, 33 - - -Kale, Scotch, 148 - Sea, 148 - - -Leek Soup, 33 - -Leeks, Stewed, 145 - Welsh Porridge, 146 - -Lemon Cream, 166 - Jelly, 159 - Water, Ice, 176 - -Lentil Porridge, 75 - Puree a la Soubise, 34 - Soup, 33 - -Lentils, 135 - a la a Provencale, 136 - Boiled, 136 - Curried, 136 - -Lettuce Salad, 97 - -Lettuces, Stewed, 146 - with Peas, 146 - - -Macaroni, 67 - a la Reine, 69 - and Cheese, 68 - Chestnuts, 72 - Cream, 73 - Eggs, 69 - Tomatoes, 72 - as an Ornament, 70 - au gratin, 69 - Italian Fashion, 68 - Nudels, 71 - Savoury, 72 - Scolloped, 70 - Soup, Clear, 34 - Soup, Thick, 34 - Timbale of, 70 - -Macedoines, 155 - -Maitre d'hotel Sauce, 53 - Butter, 53 - -Mango Chutney Sauce, 53 - -Maraschino Cream, 166 - -Mayonnaise Salad, 98 - Sauce, 53 - Sauce, Green, 54 - -Melon Salad, 105 - -Milk Porridge, 75 - Soup, 35 - Toast, 77 - -Mint Sauce, 54 - -Mock Turtle Soup, 35 - -Mulberry Jelly, 163 - -Mulligatawny Soup, 35 - -Mushroom, Essence of, 44 - Forcemeat, 110 - Fritters, 116 - Pie, 110 - Cold, 110 - Pudding, 111 - Puree of, 55 - Sandwiches, 106 - Sauce, 54 - Brown, 55 - -Mushrooms, 108 - a la Bordelaise, 110 - a la Provencale, 110 - and Eggs, 86 - au gratin, 109 - Fried, 109 - Plain, 108 - -Mustard Sauce, 55 - -Mustard and Cress, 104 - Sandwiches, 106 - - -Nalesnikis, 116 - -Nettles, To Boil, 151 - - -Oatmeal Porridge, 73 - -Oiled Butter, 48 - -Omelet au Kirsch, 95 - au Rhum, 95 - Cheese, 92 - Fine Herbs, 92 - Onion, 92 - Plain, 91 - Potato, 92 - Potato, Sweet, 92 - Souffle, 93 - Sweet, 94 - Vegetable, 95 - with Jam, 94 - -Omelets, 89 - -Onion Omelet, 92 - Salad, 104 - Sauce, 55 - Brown, 55 - Soup, 35 - Brown, 36 - -Onions and Eggs, 87 - Baked, 146 - Plain, 146 - Stewed, 147 - Stuffed, 115 - -Orange Cheesecakes, 170 - Cream, 166 - Fritters, 120 - Jelly, 160 - Sauce, 56 - Water Ice, 176 - -Ox-tail Soup, 36 - - -Palestine Soup, 24 - -Pancakes, Polish, 116 - -Parsley Sauce, 56 - To Blanch, 26 - -Parsnip Cake, 147 - Soup, 36 - -Parsnips, 147 - Fried, 147 - Mashed, 147 - -Paste for Pies, 184. - Puddings, 185. - without Butter, 183. - -Peach Fritters, 120 - -Peaches, Tinned, 156 - -Peaches with Cream, 156 - -Pea Soup, Dried Green, 37 - Split Peas, 37 - Fresh Green, 38 - -Peas, Boiled, 148 - Brose, 134 - Dried, 133 - Dried Green with Cream, 135 - Dried whole Green, 134 - Green, 148 - Pudding, 134 - Stewed, 148 - Tinned, 153 - -Pear Soup, 37 - -Pears, Stewed, 173 - Tinned, 156 - -Pie, Mushroom, 110 - Mushroom, Cold, 111 - Potato, 112 - Pumpkin, 113 - -Pies and Puddings, General, 183 - Paste for, 184. - -Pine Apple Fritters, 120 - Ice, 177 - Jelly, 162 - Sauce, 56 - Tinned, 156 - -Piroski Sernikis, 116 - -Pistachio Cream, 167 - -Plum Jam, 164 - Sauce, 56 - -Plums, Stewed, 174 - -Polenta, 115 - -Poached Eggs, 81 - -Poivrade Sauce, 57 - -Polish Pancakes, 116 - -Porridge, Barley and Rice, 75 - Milk, 75 - Lentil, 75 - Oatmeal, 73 - Sago, 77 - Whole Meal, 75 - -Potato Balls, 127 - Biscuits, 129 - Border, 128 - Bread, 129 - Cake, 129 - Cheese, 130 - Cheesecake, 169 - Chips, 126 - Croquettes, 127 - Fritters, 120 - Omelet, 92 - Omelet, Sweet, 92 - Ribbon, 126 - Salad, 101 - Soup, 38 - -Potatoes and Eggs, 87 - a la Barigoule, 130 - a la Lyonnaise, 131 - a la Maitre d'hotel, 127 - a la Provencale, 131 - Baked, 125 - Boiled, 123 - Broiled, 131 - Fried, 126 - Mashed, 125 - New, 127 - Saute, 126 - Steamed, 124 - -Pound Cake, 179 - -Prune Sauce, 57 - -Prunes, Stewed, 173 - -Pudding, Cheese, 114 - French Bean, 140 - Mushroom, 111 - Peas, 134 - Pumpkin, 113 - -Puddings, 182 - -Pumpkin a la Parmesane, 115 - Pie, 113 - Pudding, 113 - Soup, 39 - -Puree, Endive, 31 - Lentils, 34 - Mushroom, 55 - of Beans, Red, 26, - of Beans, White, 26 - of Chestnuts, 30 - Sorrel, 58 - - -Rarebit, Welsh, 115 - -Raspberry Ice, 176 - Jam, 164 - Jelly, 161 - Sauce, 57 - -Ramequins, Cheese, 114 - -Ratafia Sauce, 57 - -Ravigotte Sauce, 57 - -Red Currant Jam, 164 - Jelly, 161 - Sauce, 50 - -Red Haricot Bean Soup, 26 - -Rhubarb Soup, 39 - Stewed, 173 - -Rice, 60 - and Barley Porridge, 75 - and Cabbage, 63 - and Cheese, 63 - and Eggs, 66 - and Ginger Fritters, 121 - and Tomatoes, 66 - Boiled, 61 - Border, 64 - Croquettes, 65 - Curried, 63 - Fritters, 121 - Soup, 39 - Soup a la Royale, 39 - -Risotto, 62 - -Robert Sauce, 58 - -Roux, Brown, 22 - White, 22 - - -Sage and Onion Fritters, 118 - -Sago Porridge, 77 - Soup, 40 - -Salad, Artichoke, 102 - Asparagus, 101 - Bean, Broad, 103 - Bean, Haricot, 103 - Beetroot, 102 - Cauliflower, 104 - Celery, 103 - Cucumber, 102 - Dandelion, 103 - Egg, 99 - Endive, 100 - English, 97 - French, 97 - French Beans, 102 - German, 100 - Hop, 104 - Italian, 104 - Mayonnaise, 98 - Melon, 105 - Mixed, 98 - Mustard and Cress, 104 - Onion, 104 - Potato, 101 - Salsify, 101 - Sweet, 105 - Tomato, 99 - Water-cress, 103 - -Salads, 96 - -Salsify, Boiled, 151 - Salad, 101 - -Sandwiches, 105 - Cheese, 107 - Cream Cheese, 107 - Egg, 106 - Indian, 106 - Mushroom, 106 - Mustard and Cress, 106 - Tomato, 105 - -Sauce, Allemande, 44 - Almond, 44 - Almond, Clear, 45 - Apple, 45 - Arrowroot, 45 - Artichoke, 45 - Asparagus, 45 - Bread, 45 - Butter, 46 - Butter, Black, 48 - Butter, Oiled, 48 - Caper, 49 - Carrot, 49 - Cauliflower, 49 - Celery, 49 - Cherry, 49 - Chestnut, 49 - Cinnamon, 49 - Cocoa-nut, 49 - Cucumber, 49 - Currant, Black, 50 - Currant, Red, 50 - Curry, 50 - Dutch, 51 - Green, 51 - Egg, 51 - Fennel, 51 - German Sweet, 51 - Ginger, 52 - Gooseberry, 52 - Horseradish, 52 - Indian Pickle, 53 - Italian, 53 - Maitre d'hotel, 53 - Mango Chutney, 53 - Mayonnaise, 53 - Green, 54 - Mint, 54 - Mushroom, 54 - Brown, 55 - Puree, 55 - Mustard, 55 - Onion, 55 - Brown, 55 - Orange Cream, 56 - Parsley, 56 - Pine Apple, 56 - Plum, 56 - Poivrade, 57 - Prune, 57 - Radish, 57 - Raspberry, 57 - Ratafia, 57 - Ravigotte, 57 - Robert, 58 - Sorrel, 58 - Soubise, 58 - Sweet, 58 - Tarragon, 58 - Tartar, 58 - Tomato, 59 - Truffle, 59 - Vanilla, 59 - White, 59 - -Sauces, 44 - -Savoury Rice, 66 - -Scotch Broth, 40 - Kale, 148 - -Sea Kale, 148 - Soup, 40 - -Sorrel Sauce, 58 - Soup, 40 - -Soubise Sauce, 58 - -Souffle, Cheese, 92 - Omelet, 93 - -Soup, Almond, 23 - Apple, 24 - Artichoke, 24 - Asparagus, 24 - Barley, 25 - Bean, French, 27 - Green, 27 - Haricot, Red, 26 - Haricot, White 26 - Beetroot, 26 - Cabbage, 27 - Carrot, 27 - Cauliflower, 28 - Celery, 29 - Cheese, 29 - Cherry, 29 - Chestnut, 30 - Clear, 30 - Cocoanut, 31 - Cottage, 30 - Endive, 31 - Fruit, 31 - Green Pea, Dried, 37 - Fresh, 38 - Hare, 32 - Hotch Potch, 32 - Jardiniere, 33 - Julienne, 33 - Leek, 33 - Lentil, 33 - Lentil a la Soubise, 34 - Macaroni, Clear, 34 - Thick, 34 - Milk, 35 - Mock Turtle, 35 - Mulligatawny, 35 - Onion, 35 - Brown, 36 - Ox-tail, 36 - Palestine, 24 - Parsnip, 36 - Pear, 37 - Pea, Split, 37 - Green, Dried, 37 - Fresh, 38 - Potato, 38 - Pumpkin, 39 - Rhubarb, 39 - Rice, 39 - a la Royale, 39 - Sago, 40 - Scotch Broth, 40 - Sea Kale, 40 - Sorrel, 40 - Spinach, 41 - Tapioca, 41 - Tomato, 41 - Turnip, 42 - Vegetable, 33 - Marrow, 42 - Vermicelli, 42 - White, 42 - White, 43 - -Soups, 23 - General Instructions, 17 - -Sparghetti, 67 - -Spinach, 149 - and Eggs, 85 - Extract of, 25 - Fritters, 118 - Soup, 41 - Tinned, 154 - -Stock, 21 - -Strawberry Cream, 167 - Ice, 176 - Jam, 164 - -Sweet Fritters, 118 - Omelet, 94 - Salads, 105 - Sauce, 58 - German, 51 - - -Tagliatelli, 73 - -Tapioca Soup, 41 - -Tarragon Sauce, 58 - -Tartar Sauce, 58 - -Thickening, Brown, 22 - White, 22 - -Timbale of Macaroni, 70 - -Toast, Egg, 85 - Milk, 77 - -Tomato Fritters, 117 - Pie, 112 - Salad, 99 - Sandwiches, 105 - Sauce, 59 - Soup, 41 - -Tomatoes and Macaroni, 72 - and Rice, 66 - au Gratin, 111 - Baked, 111 - Fried, 111 - Grilled, 111 - Stewed, 111 - -Truffle Sauce, 59 - -Turnip Soup, 42 - -tops, 151 - and Eggs, 85 - -Turnips, Boiled, 150 - Mashed, 150 - Ornamental, 150 - Tinned, 155 - - -Vanilla Cream, 166 - Fritters, 119 - Ice, 176 - Sauce, 59 - -Vegetable Curry, 151 - Marrow, 149 - Soup, 42 - Stuffed, 149 - Omelet, 95 - Soup, 42 - -Vegetables, Fresh, 137 - Preserved, 152 - Substantial, 122 - -Vermicelli Soup, 42 - Thick, 42 - - -Water-cress Salad, 103 - -Welsh Porridge, 146 - Rarebit, 115 - -White Haricot Bean Salad, 103 - Soup, 26 - Roux, 22 - Sauce, 59 - Soup, 43 - Thickening, 22 - -Whole-meal Bread, 180 - Porridge, 75 - - -Zucchetti Farcis, 115 - - * * * * * - -PRINTED BY CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, LA BELLE SAUVAGE, LONDON, E.C. - - * * * * * - -Cheap Edition (11_th Thousand_). - -Cloth gilt, 2s. 6d. - -WHAT GIRLS CAN DO. A Book for Mothers and Daughters. By PHYLLIS BROWNE, -Author of "A Year's Cookery." - -"Girls who are forced to earn their livelihood, are ambitious of making -themselves useful, or only desire not to be idle, may all consult with -advantage these pages, which have the great merit of being within the -compass of all to profit by."--_Times_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London._ - - * * * * * - -_Seventh and Cheap Edition._ - -Price 1s. 6d.; cloth, 2s. - -A HANDBOOK OF NURSING FOR THE HOME AND FOR THE HOSPITAL. By CATHERINE J. -WOOD, Lady Superintendent of the Hospital for Sick Children, Great Ormond -Street. - -"A book which every mother of a family ought to have, as well as every -nurse under training."--_Guardian_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -_Ninth Edition_, extra fcap. 8vo, cloth, 6s. - -THE LADIES' PHYSICIAN. A Guide for Women to the Treatment of their -Ailments. By a London Physician. - -"The statements are accurate, the opinions sound, and the advice -judicious."--_Medical Times_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London._ - - * * * * * - -_Cheap Edition_. Price 6d. - -HOW WOMEN MAY EARN A LIVING. By MERCY GROGAN. - -"In a lucid and concise manner are embodied a large number of suggestions -in which ladies who have to depend upon their own exertions for their -support could be helped."--_Daily Telegraph_. - - * * * * * - -52_nd Thousand_. Stiff covers, 1s.; cloth, 1s. 6d. - -ETIQUETTE OF GOOD SOCIETY, - -"A book which may fairly be considered a recognised authority. It covers -the whole of our lives in all their varying phases, and is as pleasantly -written an it is instructive."--_The Queen_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London._ - - * * * * * - - -HEALTH HANDBOOKS. - - * * * * * - -HEALTH AT SCHOOL. By CLEMENT DUKES, M.D., B.S., Physician to Rugby School -and to Rugby Hospital. 7s. 6d. - -"A most excellent little volume."--_Athenaeum_. - - * * * * * - -THE INFLUENCE OF CLOTHING ON HEALTH. By FREDERICK TREVES, F.R.C.S, Surgeon -to, and Lecturer on Anatomy at, the London Hospital. 2s. - -"An admirable treatise, the subject being dealt with in a very thorough and -interesting manner."--_The Hospital_. - - * * * * * - -THE EYE, EAR, AND THROAT (THE MANAGEMENT OF). 3s. 6d. - -THE EYE AND SIGHT. By HENRY POWER, M.B., F.R.C.S. - -THE EAR AND HEARING. By GEORGE P. FIELD. - -THE THROAT, VOICE, AND SPEECH. By JOHN S. BRISTOWE, M.D., F.R.S. - -"Altogether this work is superior to any popular publication of its kind -which has hitherto appeared. "--_Athenaeum_. - - * * * * * - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -_New and Revised Edition_, price 21s.; roxburgh, 25s - -The Family Physician. - -A Manual of Domestic Medicine by Physicians and Surgeons of the principal -London Hospitals. - -The range of subjects dealt with is wonderfully comprehensive, and THE BOOK -WILL BE WORTH TEN TIMES ITS COST by helping many a one to ward off some of -the 'ills that flesh is heir to.' It is of inestimable value. Many years' -experience of its far-reaching usefulness and trustworthiness enables us to -commend the work with the utmost confidence. It is based on the best of -medical principles in showing how to avoid and prevent illness, but goes -much further than this, by providing judicious advice for all cases of -emergency."--_Daily Chronicle_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -AUTHORITATIVE WORK ON HEALTH BY EMINENT PHYSICIANS AND SURGEONS. - - -THE BOOK OF HEALTH. - -A SYSTEMATIC TREATISE FOR THE PROFESSIONAL AND GENERAL READER UPON THE -SCIENCE AND THE PRESERVATION OF HEALTH 21s. - -Roxburgh 25s. - -"THE BOOK OF HEALTH," says the _Lancet_, "is what it aims to -be--authoritative, and must become A STANDARD WORK OF REFERENCE not only -with those who are responsible for the health of schools, workshops, and -other establishments where there is a large concourse of individuals, but -to EVERY MEMBER OF THE COMMUNITY who is anxious to secure the highest -possible degree of healthy living for himself and for his family. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -_CASSELL & COMPANY'S COMPLETE CATALOGUE, containing Particulars of_ UPWARDS -OF ONE THOUSAND VOLUMES, _including Bibles and Religious Works, Illustrated -and Fine Art Volumes, Children's Books, Dictionaries, Educational Works, -History, Natural History, Household and Domestic Treatises, Science, -Travels, &c., together with a Synopsis of their numerous illustrated Serial -Publications, sent post free on application._ - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - - -REDUCED PRICE LIST OF BARBER & COMPANY'S NEW SEASON TEAS - -Per lb. - -Packoo, Pure Leaf Congo 1s. 2d. - -Siftings from Choicest Black Teas 1s. 2d. - -Rich Sirupy New Season's Onfa Congo 1s. 4d. - -Rich Sirupy Moning Congo 1s. 10d. - -Finest ditto 2s. 4d. - -Best Black Tea grown 2s. 10d. - -Finest and Purest Gunpowder 3s. 10d. - -Orange Pekoe (finest imported) 2s. 10d. - -Young Hyson (pure and fine) 1s. 10d. - - - - -COFFEE. - -French, as used in Paris (per lb. Tin) 1s. 0d. - -This is the choicest and most carefully selected Coffee. Roasted on the -French Principle and mixed with the Finest Bruges Chicory. - -Fine Costa Rica (mixed with the Finest Bruges Chicory) 1s. 5d. - -Finest Plantation (ditto) 1s. 5d. - -Rich Mysore (ditto) 1s. 7d. - -Rare Old Mocha (pure) 1s. 9d. - - - - -COCOA. - -Finest Pure Trinidad (Ribbed or Flaked) 1s. 4d. - -Ditto, Prepared Soluble, 2s, 1s. 6d., and 1s. per lb. - - - - * * * * * - -No Outrageous Names or Prices but CEYLON TEA (pure and simple), 1s. 6d. -per lb. (own packing). 2-1/2 lb. Sample by post for 4s. 3d.; 4-1/2 lbs. -7s. 6d.; 6 [Transcriber's Note: Illegible.] lbs. 10s. 9d. - - * * * * * - -N.B.--No Charge for Carriage of Parcels of TEA [Transcriber's Note: -Illegible.] and over in England. -_Cheques [Transcriber's Note: Illegible.] - -BARBER AND COMPANY - -(Established in the last Century) - -274, REGENT CIRCUS, OXFORD STREET, W. - -61, Bishopsgate Street, London E.C. - -102, Westbourne Grove, W. - -67, Brixton Road, S.W. - -The Borough, London Bridge, S.E. - -King's Cross, N. - -42, Great Titchfield Street, W. - -Manchester--93, Market Street. - -Birmingham--Quadrant. - -Liverpool--4, Church Street, Winston Buildings, and 62 London Road. - -Preston--104, Fishergate. - -Bristol--33, Corn Street. - -Brighton--148, North Street. - -Hastings--Robertson Street, and Havelock Road. - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Cassell's Vegetarian Cookery, by A. G. 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