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diff --git a/old/14611.txt b/old/14611.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..da08d28 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/14611.txt @@ -0,0 +1,21778 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A General History and Collection of Voyages +and Travels, Vol. 15 (of 18), by Robert Kerr + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. 15 (of 18) + Forming A Complete History Of The Origin And Progress Of Navigation, + Discovery, And Commerce, By Sea And Land, From The Earliest Ages To + The Present Time: Volume 15. Continuing An Account of a Voyage towards + the South Pole, and round the World, performed in his Majesty's ships + the Resolution and Adventure, in the Years 1772, 3, 4, and 5: Written + by James Cook, Commander of the Resolution + + +Author: Robert Kerr + +Release Date: January 6, 2005 [EBook #14611] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK KERR'S VOYAGES, VOL. 15 *** + + + + +Produced by Robert Connal, Graeme Mackreth and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team. This file was produced from images generously +made available by the Canadian Institute for Historical +Microreproductions + + + + + + +A +GENERAL +HISTORY AND COLLECTION +OF +VOYAGES AND TRAVELS, + +ARRANGED IN SYSTEMATIC ORDER: + +FORMING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN AND PROGRESS OF NAVIGATION, +DISCOVERY, AND COMMERCE, BY SEA AND LAND, FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO THE +PRESENT TIME. + +BY +ROBERT KERR, F.R.S. & F.A.S. EDIN. + + +ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AND CHARTS. + +VOL. XV. + +WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH: AND T. CADELL, LONDON. MDCCCXXIV. + + +CONTENTS +OF +VOL. XV. + +PART III.--BOOK II. + + +[Continuing An Account of a Voyage towards the South Pole, and round the World, +performed in his Majesty's ships the Resolution and Adventure, in the Years +1772, 3, 4, and 5: Written by James Cook, Commander of the Resolution.] + + +CHAP. IV.--_Continued._--From leaving New Zealand to our return to +England, + +SECT. III. Range from Christmas Sound, round Cape Horn, through Strait +Le Maire, and round Staten Land; with an Account of the Discovery of a +Harbour in that Island, and a Description of the Coasts, + +IV. Observations, geographical and nautical, with an Account of the +Islands near Staten Land, and the Animals found in them, + +V. Proceedings after leaving Staten Island, with an Account of the +Discovery of the Isle of Georgia, and a Description of it, + +VI. Proceedings after leaving the Isle of Georgia, with an Account of +the Discovery of Sandwich Land; with some Reasons for there being Land +about the South Pole, + +VII. Heads of what has been done in the Voyage; with some Conjectures +concerning the Formation of Ice-Islands; and an Account of our +Proceedings till our Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, + +VIII. Captain Furneaux's Narrative of his Proceedings, in the Adventure, +from the Time he was separated from the Resolution, to his Arrival in +England; including Lieutenant Burney's Report concerning the Boat's Crew +who were murdered by the Inhabitants of Queen Charlotte's Sound, + +SECT. IX. Transactions at the Cape of Good Hope; with an Account of +some Discoveries made by the French; and the Arrival of the Ship at St +Helena, + +X. Passage from St Helena to the Western Islands, with a Description of +the Island of Ascension and Fernando Noronha, + +XI. Arrival of the Ship at the Island of Fayal, a Description of the +Place, and the Return of the Resolution to England, + +A Vocabulary of the Language of the Society Isles, + +BOOK III. A Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, undertaken by the Command of +his Majesty, for making Discoveries in the Northern Hemisphere; to +determine the Position and Extent of the West Side of North America, its +Distance from Asia, and the Practicability of a Northern Passage to +Europe. Performed under the Direction of Captains Cook, Clerke, and +Gore, in his Majesty's Ships the Resolution and Discovery, in the Years +1776, 1777, 1778, 1779, & 1780, + +Introduction, + +CHAP. I. Transactions from the Beginning of the Voyage till our +Departure from New Zealand, + +SECT. I. Various Preparations for the Voyage. Omai's Behaviour on +embarking. Observations for determining the Longitude of Sheerness, and +the North Foreland. Passage of the Resolution from Deptford to Plymouth. +Employments there. Complements of the Crews of both Ships, and Names of +the Officers. Observations to fix the Longitude of Plymouth. Departure +of the Resolution, + +II. Passage of the Resolution to Teneriffe. Reception there. Description +of Santa Cruz Road. Refreshments to be met with. Observations for fixing +the Longitude of Teneriffe. Some Account of the Island. Botanical +Observations. Cities of Santa Cruz and Laguna, Agriculture. Air and +Climate. Commerce. Inhabitants, + +III. Departure from Teneriffe. Danger of the Ship near Bonavista. Isle +of Mayo. Port Praya. Precautions against the Rain and sultry Weather in +the Neighbourhood of the Equator. Position of the Coast of Brazil. +Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope. Transactions there. Junction of the +Discovery. Mr Anderson's Journey up the Country. Astronomical +Observations. Nautical Remarks on the Passage from England to the Cape, +with regard to the Currents and the Variation, + +SECT. IV. The two Ships leave the Cape of Good Hope. Two Islands, named +Prince Edward's, seen, and their Appearance described. Kerguelen's Land +visited. Arrival in Christmas Harbour. Occurrences there. Description of +it, + +V. Departure from Christmas Harbour. Range along the Coast, to discover +its Position and Extent. Several Promontories and Bays, and a Peninsula, +described and named. Danger from Shoals, Another Harbour and a Sound. Mr +Anderson's Observations on the Natural Productions, Animals, Soil, &c. +of Kerguelen's Land, + +VI. Passage from Kerguelen's to Van Diemen's Land. Arrival in Adventure +Bay. Incidents there. Interviews with the Natives. Their Persons and +Dress described. Account of their Behaviour. Table of the Longitude, +Latitude, and Variation. Mr Anderson's Observations on the Natural, +Productions of the Country, on the Inhabitants, and their Language, + +VII. The Passage from Van Diemen's Land to New Zealand. Employments in +Queen Charlotte's Sound. Transactions with the Natives there. +Intelligence about the Massacre of the Adventure's Boat's Crew. Account +of the Chief who headed the Party on that Occasion. Of the two young Men +who embark to attend Omai. Various Remarks on the Inhabitants. +Astronomical and Nautical Observations, + +VIII. Mr Anderson's Remarks on the Country near Queen Charlotte's Sound. +The Soil. Climate. Weather. Winds. Trees. Plants. Birds. Fish. Other +Animals. Of the Inhabitants. Description of their Persons. Their Dress. +Ornaments. Habitations. Boats. Food and Cookery. Arts. Weapons. Cruelty +to Prisoners. Various Customs. Specimen of their Language, + +CHAP. II From leaving New Zealand to our Arrival at Otaheite, or the +Society Islands, + +Sect. I. Prosecution of the Voyage. Behaviour of the two New Zealanders +on board. Unfavourable Winds. An Island called Mangeea discovered. The +Coast of it examined. Transactions with the Natives. An Account of their +Persons, Dress, and Canoes. Description of the Island. A Specimen of the +Language. Disposition of the Inhabitants, + +II. The Discovery of an Island called Wateeoo. Its Coasts +examined.--Visits from the Natives on board the Ships. Mess, Gore, +Burney, and Anderson, with Omai, sent on Shore. Mr Anderson's Narrative +of their Reception. Omai's Expedient to prevent their being detained. +His meeting with some of his Countrymen, and their distressful Voyage. +Farther Account of Wateeoo, and of its Inhabitants, + +III. Wenooa-ette, or Otokootaia, visited. Account of that Island, and of +its Produce. Hervey's Island, or Terougge mou Attooa, found to be +inhabited. Transactions with the Natives. Their Persons, Dress, +Language, Canoes. Fruitless Attempt to land there. Reason for bearing +away for the Friendly Islands. Palmerston's Island touched at. +Description of the two Places where the Boats landed. Refreshments +obtained there. Conjectures on the Formation of such low Islands. +Arrival at the Friendly Islands, + +IV. Intercourse with the Natives of Komango, and other Islands. Arrival +at Annamooka. Transactions there. Feenou, a principal Chief, from +Tongataboo, comes on a Visit. The Manner of his Reception in the Island, +and on board. Instances of the pilfering Disposition of the Natives. +Some Account of Annamooka. The Passage from it to Hepaee, + +V. Arrival of the Ships at Hepaee, and friendly Reception there. +Presents and Solemnities on the Occasion. Single Combats with Clubs. +Wrestling and Boxing Matches. Female Combatants. Marines exercised. A +Dance performed by Men. Fireworks exhibited. The Night-entertainments of +Singing and Dancing particularly described, + +SECT. VI. Description of Lefooga. Its cultivated State. Its Extent. +Transactions there. A female Oculist. Singular Expedients for shaving +off the Hair. The Ships change their Station. A remarkable Mount and +Stone. Description of Hoolaiva. Account of Poulaho, King of the Friendly +Islands. Respectful Manner in which he is treated by his People. +Departure from the Hepaee Islands. Some Account of Kotoo. Return of the +Ships to Annamooka. Poulaho and Feenou meet Arrival at Tongataboo, + +VII. Friendly Reception at Tongataboo. Manner of distributing a baked +Hog and Kava to Poulaho's Attendants. The Observatory, &c. erected. The +Village where the Chiefs reside, and the adjoining Country, described. +Interviews with Mareewagee, and Toobou, and the King's Son. A grand +Haiva, or Entertainment of Songs and Dances, given by Mareewagee. +Exhibition of Fireworks. Manner of Wrestling and Boxing. Distribution of +the Cattle. Thefts committed by the Natives. Poulaho, and the other +Chiefs, confined on that Account. Poulaho's Present and Haiva, + +VIII. Some of the Officers plundered by the Natives. A fishing Party. A +Visit to Poulaho. A Fiatooka described. Observations on the Country +Entertainments at Poulaho's House. His Mourning Ceremony. Of the Kava +Plant, and the Manner of preparing the Liquor. Account of Onevy, a +little Island. One of the Natives wounded by a Sentinel. Messrs King and +Anderson visit the King's Brother. Their Entertainment. Another Mourning +Ceremony. Manner of passing the Night. Remarks on the Country they +passed through. Preparations made for Sailing. An Eclipse of the Sun, +imperfectly observed. Mr Anderson's Account of the Island, and its +Productions, + +SECT. IX. A grand Solemnity, called Natche, in Honour of the King's +Son, performed. The Procession and other Ceremonies, during the first +Day, described. The Manner of passing the Night at the King's House. +Continuation of the Solemnity the next Day; Conjectures about the Nature +of it. Departure from Tongataboo, and the Arrival at Eooa. Account of +that Island, and Transactions there, + +X. Advantages derived from visiting the Friendly Islands. Best Articles +for Traffic. Refreshments that may be procured. The Number of the +Islands, and their Names. Keppel's and Boscawen's Islands belong to +them. Account of Vavaoo, of Hamao, of Feejee. Voyages of the Natives in +their Canoes. Difficulty of procuring exact Information. Persons of the +Inhabitants of both Sexes. Their Colour. Diseases. Their general +Character. Manner of wearing their Hair. Of puncturing their Bodies. +Their Clothing and Ornaments. Personal Cleanliness, + +XI. Employments of the Women at the Friendly Islands. Of the Men. +Agriculture. Construction of their Houses. Their working Tools. Cordage +and fishing Implements. Musical Instruments. Weapons. Food and Cookery. +Amusements. Marriage. Mourning Ceremonies for the Dead. Their +Divinities. Notions about the Soul, and a future State. Their Places of +Worship. Government. Manner of paying Obeisance to the King. Account of +the Royal Family. Remarks on their Language, and Specimen of it. +Nautical and other Observations, + +A Vocabulary of the Language of the Friendly Isles, + +A Vocabulary of the Language of Atooi, one of the Sandwich Islands, + + + + +A +GENERAL HISTORY +AND +COLLECTION +OF +VOYAGES AND TRAVELS. + +PART III. BOOK II. (CONTINUED.) + + +[An Account of a Voyage towards the South Pole, and round the World, +performed in his Majesty's ships the Resolution and Adventure, in the Years +1772, 3, 4, and 5: Written by James Cook, Commander of the Resolution.] + + +CHAPTER IV.--_Continued_. + +FROM LEAVING NEW ZEALAND TO OUR RETURN TO ENGLAND. + + +SECTION III. + +_Range from Christmas Sound, round Cape Horn, through Strait Le Maire, +and round Staten Land; with an Account of the Discovery of a Harbour in +that Island, and a Description of the Coasts._ + + +At four o'clock in the morning on the 28th, we began to unmoor, and at +eight weighed, and stood out to sea, with a light breeze at N.W., which +afterwards freshened, and was attended with rain. At noon, the east +point of the sound (Point Nativity) bore N. 1/2 W., distant one and a +half leagues, and St Ildefonzo Isles S.E. 1/2 S., distant seven leagues. +The coast seemed to trend in the direction of E. by S.; but the weather +being very hazy, nothing appeared distinct. + +We continued to steer S.E. by E. and E.S.E.; with a fresh breeze at +W.N.W., till four o'clock p.m., when we hauled to the south, in order to +have a nearer view of St Ildefonzo Isles. At this time we were abreast +of an inlet, which lies E.S.E, about seven leagues from the sound; but +it must be observed that there are some isles without this distinction. +At the west point of the inlet are two high peaked hills, and below +them, to the east, two round hills, or isles, which lie in the direction +of N.E. and S.W. of each other. An island, or what appeared to be an +island, lay in the entrance; and another but smaller inlet appeared to +the west of this: Indeed the coast appeared indented and broken as +usual. + +At half past five o'clock, the weather clearing up, gave us a good sight +of Ildefonzo Isles. They are a group of islands and rocks above water, +situated about six leagues from the main, and in the latitude of 55 deg. 53' +S., longitude 69 deg. 41' W. + +We now resumed our course to the east, and, at sun-set, the most +advanced land bore S.E. by E. 3/4 E.; and a point, which I judged to be +the west point of Nassau Bay, discovered by the Dutch fleet under the +command of Admiral Hermite in 1624, bore N. 80 deg. E., six leagues distant. +In some charts this point is called False Cape Horn, as being the +southern point of Terra del Fuego. It is situated in latitude 55 deg. 39' S. +From the inlet above-mentioned to this false cape, the direction of the +coast is nearly east, half a point south, distant fourteen or fifteen +leagues. + +At ten o'clock, having shortened sail, we spent the night in making +short boards under the top-sails, and at three next morning made sail, +and steered S.E. by S., with a fresh breeze at W.S.W., the weather +somewhat hazy. At this time the west entrance to Nassau Bay extended +from N. by E. to N.E. 1/2 E., and the south side of Hermite's Isles, E. +by S. At four, Cape Horn, for which we now steered, bore E. by S. It is +known, at a distance, by a high round hill over it. A point to the +W.N.W. shews a surface not unlike this; but their situations alone will +always distinguish the one from the other. + +At half past seven, we passed this famous _cape_, and entered the +southern Atlantic ocean. It is the very same point of land I took for +the cape, when I passed it in 1769, which at that time I was doubtful +of. It is the most southern extremity on a group of islands of unequal +extent, lying before Nassau Bay, known by the name of Hermite Islands, +and is situated in the latitude of 55 deg. 58', and in the longitude of 68 deg. +13' W.; according to the observations made of it in 1769. But the +observations which we had in Christmas Sound, and reduced to the cape by +the watch, and others which we had afterwards, and reduced back to it by +the same means, place it in 67 deg. 19'. It is most probable that a mean +between the two, viz. 67 deg. 46', will be nearest the truth. On the N.W. +side of the cape are two peaked rocks, like sugar-loaves: They lie N.W. +by N., and S.E. by S., by compass, of each other. Some other straggling +low rocks lie west of the cape, and one south of it; but they are all +near the shore. From Christmas Sound to Cape Horn the course is E.S.E +1/4 E., distant thirty-one leagues. In the direction of E.N.E., three +leagues from Cape Horn, is a rocky point, which I called Mistaken Cape, +and is the southern point of the easternmost of Hermite Isles. Between +these two capes there seemed to be a passage directly into Nassau Bay; +some small isles were seen in the passage; and the coast, on the west +side, had the appearance of forming good bays or harbours. In some +charts, Cape Horn is laid down as belonging to a small island. This was +neither confirmed, nor can it be contradicted by us; for several +breakers appeared on the coast, both to the east and west of it; and the +hazy weather rendered every object indistinct. The summits of some of +the hills were rocky, but the sides and vallies seemed covered with a +green turf, and wooded in tufts.[1] + +[Footnote 1: True Cape Horn, distinguishable at a distance by a round +hill of considerable height, is the south point of Hermite's Isles, a +cluster which separates the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. False Cape Horn +lies nine miles to the north-east and is the west point of Nassau Bay, +where James Hermite cast anchor. Vide vol. x. page 197.--E.] + +From Cape Horn we steered E. by N. 1/2 N., which direction carried us +without the rocks that lie off Mistaken Cape. These rocks are white with +the dung of fowls, and vast numbers were seen about them. After passing +them we steered N.E. 1/2 E. and N.E., for Strait Le Maire, with a view +of looking into Success Bay, to see if there were any traces of the +Adventure having been there. At eight o'clock in the evening, drawing +near the strait, we shortened sail, and hauled the wind. At this time +the Sugar-loaf on Terra del Fuego bore N. 33 deg. W.; the point of Success +Bay, just open of the cape of the same name, bearing N. 20 deg. E.; and +Staten Land, extending from N. 53 deg. E. to 67 deg. E. Soon after the wind +died away, and we had light airs and calms by turns till near noon the +next day, during which time we were driven by the current over to Staten +Land. + +The calm being succeeded by a light breeze at N.N.W., we stood over for +Success Bay, assisted by the currents, which set to the north. Before +this we had hoisted our colours, and fired two guns; and soon after saw +a smoke rise out of the woods, above the south point of the bay, which I +judged was made by the natives, as it was at the place where they +resided when I was here in 1769. As soon as we got off the bay, I sent +Lieutenant Pickersgill to see if any traces remained of the Adventure +having been there lately; and in the mean time we stood on and off with +the ship. At two o'clock, the current turned and set to the south; and +Mr Pickersgill informed me, when he returned, that it was falling water +on shore, which was contrary to what I had observed when I was here +before, for I thought then that the flood came from the north. Mr +Pickersgill saw not the least signs of any ship having been there +lately. I had inscribed our ship's name on a card, which he nailed to a +tree at the place where the Endeavour watered. This was done with a view +of giving Captain Furneaux some information, in case he should be behind +us and put in here. + +On Mr Pickersgill's landing he was courteously received by several of +the natives, who were clothed in guanicoe and seal skins, and had on +their arms bracelets, made of silver wire, and wrought not unlike the +hilt of a sword, being no doubt the manufacture of some Europeans. They +were the same kind of people we had seen in Christmas Sound, and, like +them, repeated the word pechera on every occasion. One man spoke much to +Mr Pickersgill, pointing first to the ship and then to the bay, as if he +wanted her to come in. Mr Pickersgill said the bay was full of whales +and seals; and we had observed the same in the strait, especially on the +Terra del Fuego side, where the whales, in particular, are exceedingly +numerous.[2] + +[Footnote 2: "Not less than thirty large whales, and some hundreds of +seals, played in the water about us. The whales went chiefly in couples, +from whence we supposed this to be the season when the sexes meet. +Whenever they spouted up the water, or, as the sailors term it, were +seen blowing to windward, the whole ship was infested with a most +detestable, rank, and poisonous stench, which went off in the space of +two or three minutes. Sometimes these huge animals lay on their backs, +and with their long pectoral fins beat the surface of the sea, which +always caused a great noise, equal to the explosion of a swivel. This +kind of play has doubtless given rise to the mariner's story of a fight +between the thrasher and the whale, of which the former is said to leap +out of the water in order to fall heavily on the latter. Here we had an +opportunity of observing the same exercise many times repeated, and +discovered that all the belly and under side of the fins and tail are of +a white colour, whereas the rest are black. As we happened to be only +sixty yards from one of these animals, we perceived a number of +longitudinal furrows, or wrinkles, on its belly, from whence we +concluded it was the species by Linnaeus named _balaena boops_. Besides +flapping their fins in the water, these unwieldy animals, of forty feet +in length, and not less than ten feet in diameter, sometimes fairly +leaped into the air, and dropped down again with a heavy fall, which +made the water foam all round them. The prodigious quantity of power +required to raise such a vast creature out of the water is astonishing; +and their peculiar economy cannot but give room to many +reflections."--G.F.] + +As soon as the boat was hoisted in, which, was not till near six +o'clock, we made sail to the east, with a fine breeze at north. For +since we had explored the south coast of Terra del Fuego, I resolved to +do the same by Staten Land, which I believed to have been as little +known as the former. At nine o'clock the wind freshening, and veering to +N.W., we tacked, and stood to S.W., in order to spend the night; which +proved none of the best, being stormy and hazy, with rain. + +Next morning, at three o'clock, we bore up for the east end of Staten +Land, which, at half past four, bore S. 60 deg. E., the west end S. 2 deg. E., +and the land of Terra del Fuego S. 40 deg. W. Soon after I had taken these +bearings, the land was again obscured in a thick haze, and we were +obliged to make way, as it were, in the dark; for it was but now and +then we got a sight of the coast. As we advanced to the east, we +perceived several islands, of unequal extent, lying off the land. There +seemed to be a clear passage between the easternmost, and the one next +to it, to the west. I would gladly have gone through this passage, and +anchored under one of the islands, to have waited for better weather, +for on sounding we found only twenty-nine fathoms water; but when I +considered that this was running to leeward in the dark, I chose to keep +without the islands, and accordingly hauled off to the north. At eight +o'clock we were abreast of the most eastern isle, distant from it about +two miles, and had the same depth of water as before. I now shortened +sail to the three top-sails, to wait for clear weather; for the fog was +so thick that we could see no other land than this island. After waiting +an hour, and the weather not clearing, we bore up and hauled round the +east end of the island, for the sake of smooth water and anchorage, if +it should be necessary. In hauling round, we found a strong race of a +current, like unto broken water; but we had no less than nineteen +fathoms. We also saw on the island abundance of seals and birds. This +was a temptation too great for people in our situation to withstand, to +whom fresh provisions of any kind were acceptable; and determined me to +anchor, in order that we might taste of what we now only saw at a +distance. At length, after making a few boards, fishing, as it were, for +the best ground, we anchored in twenty-one fathoms water, a stony +bottom, about a mile from the island, which extended from N. 18 deg. E. to +N. 55 deg. 1/2 W.; and soon after, the weather clearing up, we saw Cape St +John, or the east end of Staten Land, bearing S. 76 deg. E., distant four +leagues. We were sheltered from the south wind by Staten Land, and from +the north wind by the island; the other isles lay to the west, and +secured us from that wind; but beside being open to the N.E. and E., we +also lay exposed to the N.N.W. winds. This might have been avoided by +anchoring more to the west, but I made choice of my situation for two +reasons; first, to be near the island we intended to land upon, and, +secondly, to be able to get to sea with any wind. + +After dinner we hoisted out three boats, and landed with a large party +of men; some to kill seals, others to catch or kill birds, fish, or what +came in our way. To find the former it mattered not where we landed, for +the whole shore was covered with them; and by the noise they made one +would have thought the island was stocked with cows and calves. On +landing we found they were a different animal from seals, but in shape +and motion exactly resembling them. We called them lions, on account of +the great resemblance the male has to that beast.[3] Here were also the +same kind of seals which we found in New Zealand, generally known by the +name of sea-bears; at least we gave them that name. + +[Footnote 3: The resemblance had been noticed by earlier voyagers, and +procured for these animals the same name. This is mentioned by Mr G.F., +who refers to Francis Petty in Hackluyt's collection, Sir Richard +Hawkins, Sir John Nasborough and Labbe, in Des Brosses' Nav. aux Terres +Australes. The description which the same gentleman has given of these +remarkable creatures is too interesting (though Cook's account +afterwards given might suffice) to be omitted. "The old males were, in +general, very fat, and measured from ten to twelve feet in length; the +females were more slender, and from six to eight feet long. The weight +of the largest male amounts to 1200 or 1500 lb., for one of a middle +size weighed 550 lb. after the skin, entrails, and blubber were taken +off. The head of the male has really some resemblance to a lion's head, +and the colour is likewise very nearly the same, being only a darker hue +of tawny. The long shaggy hair on the neck and throat of the male, +beginning at the back of the head, bears a strong resemblance to a mane; +and is hard and coarse to the touch; all the rest of the body is covered +with short hairs, which lie very close to the skin, and form a smooth +glossy coat. The lioness is perfectly smooth all over the body; but both +sexes are formed alike with regard to the feet, or rather fins. Those +fins, which originate near the breast, are large flat pieces of a black +coriaceous membrane, which have only some small indistinct vestiges of +nails on their middle. The hinder fins are rather more like feet, being +black membranes divided into five long toes, with a thin thong, or +membrane, projecting far beyond the nails, which are very small. With +these nails, however, we have seen them scratch all parts of their body. +The tail is excessively short, and hid between the hind feet or fins, +which grow close together. The whole hind quarters are very round, being +covered with an amazing quantity of fat. The noise which all the animals +of this kind made together was various, and sometimes stunned our ears. +The old males snort and roar like mad bulls or lions; the females bleat +exactly like calves, and the young cubs like lambs. Of the young we saw +great numbers on the beaches; and one of the females being knocked down +with a club, littered in the same instant. The sea-lions live together +in numerous herds. The oldest and fattest males lie apart, each having +chosen a large stone, which none of the rest dares approach without +engaging in a furious battle. We have often seen them seize each other +with a degree of rage which is not to be described; and many of them had +deep gashes on their backs, which they had received in the wars. The +younger active sea-lions, with all the females and the cubs, lie +together. They commonly waited the approach of our people, but as soon +as some of the herd were killed, the rest took flight with great +precipitation, some females carrying off a cub in their mouths, whilst +many were so terrified as to leave them behind. When left to themselves, +they were often seen caressing each other in the most tender manner, and +their snouts often met together, as if they were kissing. They come +ashore on these uninhabited spots to breed; they do not, however, breed +during their stay on shore, which sometimes lasts several weeks, but +grow lean, and swallow a considerable quantity of stones to keep their +stomach distended. We were surprised to find the stomachs of many of +these animals entirely empty, and of others filled with ten or a dozen +round heavy stones, each of the size of two fists."--Professor Steller's +description of these animals, which he found at Bering's Isle, near +Kamtchatka, corresponds perfectly with that now given, and is referred +to by Mr G.F. Pernetty, Bougainville, and others also speak of them as +met with in their voyages.--E.] + +They were, in general, so tame, or rather stupid, as to suffer us to +come near enough to knock them down with sticks; but the large ones we +shot, not thinking it safe to approach them. We also found on the island +abundance of penguins and shags; and the latter had young ones almost +fledged, and just to our taste. Here were geese and ducks, but not many; +birds of prey, and a few small birds. In the evening we returned on +board, our boats well laden with one thing or other.[4] + +[Footnote 4: "Having made some havock among the sea-lions, we walked +upon the summit of the island, which was nearly level, but covered with +innumerable little mounds of earth, on each of which grew a large tuft +of grass (_dactylis glomerata_). The intervals between these tufts were +very muddy and dirty, which obliged us to leap from one tuft to +another. We soon discovered that another kind of seals occupied this +part of the island, and caused the mud by coming out of the sea. These +were no other than the sea-bears which we had already seen at Dusky Bay, +but which were here infinitely more numerous, and grown to a much larger +size, equalling that assigned to them by Steller. They are, however, far +inferior to the sea-lions, the males being never above eight or nine +feet long, and thick in proportion. Their hair is dark-brown, minutely +sprinkled with grey, and much longer on the whole body than that of the +sea-lion, but does not form a mane. The general outline of the body, and +the shape of the fins, are exactly the same. They were more fierce +towards us, and their females commonly died in defence of their young. +We observed on another occasion, that these two species, though +sometimes encamped on the same beach, always kept at a great distance +asunder, and had no communication. A strong rank stench is common to +them, as well as to all other seals; a circumstance as well known to the +ancients, as their inactivity and drowsiness whilst they lie on shore-- + + Web-footed seals forsake the whitening waves, + And sleep in herds, exhaling nauseous stench. + HOMER. + +Great numbers of a species of vultures, commonly called carrion crows by +the sailors (_vultur aura_), were seen upon this island, and probably +feed on young seal-cubs, which either die in the birth, or which they +take an opportunity to seize upon. Besides them we also found a new +species of hawks, and several geese of the sort which had so well +furnished out our Christmas entertainment. Here we likewise saw a few +penguins, of a species which we had not met with before, some large +petrels of the size of albatrosses, being the same species which the +Spaniards name _que-branta-huessos_, or the bone-breakers, and some +shags."--G.F.] + +Next day, being January the 1st, 1775, finding that nothing was wanting +but a good harbour to make this a tolerable place for ships to refresh +at, whom chance or design, might bring hither, I sent Mr Gilbert over to +Staten Land in the cutter to look for one. Appearances promised success +in a place opposite the ship. I also sent two other boats for the lions, +&c. we had killed the preceding day; and soon after I went myself, and +observed the sun's meridian altitude at the N.E. end of the island, +which gave the latitude 54 deg. 40' 5" S. After shooting a few geese, some +other birds, and plentifully supplying ourselves with young shags, we +returned on board, laden with sea-lions, sea-bears, &c. The old lions +and bears were killed chiefly for the sake of their blubber, or fat, to +make oil of; for, except their haslets, which were tolerable, the flesh +was too rank to be eaten with any degree of relish. But the young cubs +were very palateable, and even the flesh of some of the old lionesses +was not much amiss, but that of the old males was abominable. In the +afternoon I sent some people on shore to skin and cut off the fat of +those which yet remained dead on shore, for we had already more carcases +on board than necessary; and I went myself, in another boat, to collect +birds. About ten o'clock Mr Gilbert returned from Staten Land, where he +found a good port, situated three leagues to the westward of Cape St +John, and in the direction of north, a little easterly, from the N.E. +end of the eastern island. It may be known by some small islands lying +in the entrance. The channel, which is on the east side of these +islands, is half a mile broad. The course is in S.W. by S., turning +gradually to W. by S. and W. The harbour lies nearly in this last +direction; is almost two miles in length; in some places near a mile +broad; and hath in it from fifty to ten fathoms water, a bottom of mud +and sand. Its shores are covered with wood fit for fuel; and in it are +several streams of fresh water. On the islands were sea-lions, &c. and +such an innumerable quantity of gulls as to darken the air when +disturbed, and almost to suffocate our people with their dung. This they +seemed to void in a way of defence, and it stunk worse than assafoetida, +or what is commonly called devil's dung. Our people saw several geese, +ducks, and race-horses, which is also a kind of duck. The day on which +this port was discovered occasioned my calling it New-Year's Harbour. It +would be more convenient for ships bound to the west, or round Cape +Horn, if its situation would permit them to put to sea with an easterly +and northerly wind. This inconvenience, however, is of little +consequence, since these winds are never known to be of long duration. +The southerly and westerly are the prevailing winds, so that a ship +never can be detained long in this port.[5] + +[Footnote 5: "The largest of the New-Year's Islands, as we called them, +and which we now left, is about six leagues in circuit, and that under +which we lay at anchor, between three and four leagues. They are +excellent places of refreshment for a ship's crew bound on expeditions +like ours; for though the flesh of sea-lions and penguins is not the +most palateable food, yet it is infinitely more salubrious than salt +meat; and by searching the different islands, it is not improbable that +a sufficient quantity of celery and scurvy-grass might be found to +supply the whole crew, especially as we saw both the species on our +excursions. Our seamen lived several days on young shags and penguins, +of which they found the former extremely palateable, comparing them to +young pullets. They likewise roasted several little cubs of seals, but +there was a degree of softness in the meat which made it disgustful. The +flesh of young, but full-grown sea-bears, was greatly preferable, and +tasted like coarse and bad beef; but that of the old sea-lions and bears +was so rank and offensive, that we could not touch it."--G.F.] + +As we could not sail in the morning of the 2d for want of wind, I sent a +party of men on shore to the island, on the same duty as before. Towards +noon we got a fresh breeze at west; but it came too late, and I resolved +to wait till the next morning, when, at four o'clock, we weighed, with a +fresh gale at N.W. by W., and stood for Cape St John, which, at half +past six, bore N. by E., distant four or five miles. This cape, being +the eastern point of Staten Land, a description of it is unnecessary. It +may, however, not be amiss to say, that it is a rock of a considerable +height, situated in the latitude of 54 deg. 46' S., longitude 63 deg. 47' W., +with a rocky islet lying close under the north part of it. To the +westward of the cape, about five or six miles, is an inlet, which seemed +to divide the land, that is, to communicate with the sea to the south; +and between this inlet and the cape is a bay, but I cannot say of what +depth. In sailing round the cape we met with a very strong current from +the south: It made a race which looked like breakers; and it was as much +as we could do, with a strong gale, to make head against it.[6] + +[Footnote 6: Captain Krusenstern, as has been noticed in vol. 12, page +413, verified Cook's longitude of Cape St John, having found it to agree +exactly with that pointed out by the watches on board his consort the +Neva, which differed but a few minutes from those in his own +vessel.--E.] + +After getting round the cape, I hauled up along the south coast, and as +soon as we had brought the wind to blow off the land, it came upon us in +such heavy squalls as obliged us to double-reef our top-sails. It +afterwards fell, by little and little, and at noon ended in a calm. At +this time Cape St John bore N. 20 deg. E., distant three and a half leagues; +Cape St Bartholomew, or the S.W. point of Staten Land, S. 83 deg. W.; two +high detached rocks N. 80 deg. W.; and the place where the land seemed to be +divided, which had the same appearance on this side, bore N. 15 deg. W. +three leagues distant. Latitude observed 54 deg. 56'. In this situation we +sounded, but had no bottom with a line of 120 fathoms. The calm was of +very short duration, a breeze presently springing up at N.W.; but it was +too faint to make head against the current, and we drove with it back to +the N.N.E. At four o'clock the wind veered, at once, to S. by E., and +blew in squalls attended with rain. Two hours after, the squalls and +rain subsided, and the wind returning back to the west, blew a gentle +gale. All this time the current set us to the north, so that, at eight +o'clock, Cape St John bore W.N.W., distant about seven leagues. I now +gave over plying, and steered S.E., with a resolution to leave the land; +judging it to be sufficiently explored to answer the most general +purposes of navigation and geography.[7] + +[Footnote 7: The very intelligent officer mentioned in the preceding +note, seems to have been very materially benefited by the observations +of Captain Cook, in navigating this quarter, and does not hesitate to +avow his obligations. An instance of this is recorded in our account of +Byron's voyage, vol. 12, p. 74, which refers to a passage in the next +section as to the currents losing their force at ten or twelve leagues +from land.--E.] + + +SECTION IV. + +_Observations, geographical and nautical, with an Account of the Islands +near Staten Land, and the Animals found in them_.[8] + +[Footnote 8: It has been thought advisable to retain this section +verbatim, although the references it makes to Captain Cook's chart can +scarcely be understood without that accompaniment, and several +observations of another sort which it contains, are given elsewhere. In +justice to the memory of Cook, it was resolved to preserve the whole of +his relation, at the risk of a very trivial repetition, which the +reader, it is believed, will be little disposed to resent.--E.] + + +The chart will very accurately shew the direction, extent, and position +of the coast, along which I have sailed, either in this or my former +voyage. The latitudes have been determined by the sun's meridian +altitude, which we were so fortunate as to obtain every day, except the +one we sailed from Christmas Sound, which was of no consequence, as its +latitude was known before. The longitudes have been settled by lunar +observations, as is already mentioned. I have taken 67 deg. 46' for the +longitude of Cape Horn. From this meridian the longitudes of all the +other parts are deduced by the watch, by which the extent of the whole +mast be determined to a few miles; and whatever errors there may be in +longitude, must be general. But I think it highly probable that the +longitude is determined to within a quarter of a degree. Thus the extent +of Terra del Fuego from east to west, and consequently that of the +straits of Magalhaens, will be found less than most navigators have made +it. + +In order to illustrate this and to shew the situations of the +neighbouring lands, and, by this means, make the chart of more general +use, I have extended it down to 47 deg. of latitude. But I am only +answerable for the accuracy of such parts as I have explored myself. In +laying down the rest I had recourse to the following authorities. + +The longitude of Cape Virgin Mary, which is the most essential point, as +it determines the length of the straits of Magalhaens, is deduced from +Lord Anson, who made 2 deg. 30' difference of longitude between it and the +Strait Le Maire. Now as the latter lies in 65 deg. 22', Cape Virgin-Mary +must lie in: 67 deg. 52', which is the longitude I have assigned to it, and +which, I have reason to think, cannot be far from the truth. + +The strait of Magalhaens, and the east coast of Patagonia, are laid down +from the observations made by the late English and French navigators. + +The position of the west coast of America, from Cape Victory northward, +I have taken from the discoveries of _Sarmiento_, a Spanish navigator, +communicated to me by Mr Stuart, F.R.S. + +Falkland Islands are copied from a sketch taken from Captain M'Bride, +who circumnavigated them some years ago in his majesty's ship Jason; and +their distance from the main is agreeable to the run of the Dolphin, +under the command of Commodore Byron, from Cape Virgin Mary to Port +Egmont, and from Port Egmont to Port Desire, both of which runs were +made in a few days; consequently no material errors could happen. + +The S.W. coast of Terra del Fuego, with respect to inlets, islands, &c. +may be compared to the coast of Norway; for I doubt if there be an +extent of three leagues where there is not an inlet or harbour which +will receive and shelter the largest shipping. The worst is, that till +these inlets are better known, one has, as it were, to fish for +anchorage. There are several lurking rocks on the coast, but happily +none of them lie far from land, the approach to which may be known by +sounding, supposing the weather so obscure that you cannot see it. For +to judge of the whole by the parts we have sounded, it is more than +probable that there are soundings all along the coast, and for several +leagues out to sea. Upon the whole, this is by no means the dangerous +coast it has been represented. + +Staten Land lies near E. by N. and W. by S., and is ten leagues long in +that direction, and no where above three or four leagues broad. The +coast is rocky, much indented, and seemed to form several bays or +inlets. It shews a surface of craggy hills which spire up to a vast +height, especially near the west end. Except the craggy summits of the +hills, the greatest part was covered with trees and shrubs, or some sort +of herbage, and there was little or no snow on it. The currents between +Cape Deseada and Cape Horn set from west to east, that is, in the same +direction as the coast; but they are by no means considerable. To the +east of the cape their strength is much increased, and their direction +is N.E. towards Staten Land. They are rapid in Strait Le Maire and along +the south coast of Staten Land, and set like a torrent round Cape St +John; where they take a N.W. direction, and continue to run very strong +both within and without New Year's Isles. While we lay at anchor within +this island, I observed that the current was strongest during the flood; +and that on the ebb its strength was so much impaired, that the ship +would sometimes ride head to the wind when it was at W. and W.N.W. This +is only to be understood of the place where the ship lay at anchor, for +at the very time we had a strong current setting to the westward, Mr +Gilbert found one of equal strength near the coast of Staten Land +setting to the eastward, though probably this was an eddy current or +tide. + +If the tides are regulated by the moon, it is high-water by the shore at +this place on the days of the new and full moon, about four o'clock. The +perpendicular rise and fall is very inconsiderable, not exceeding four +feet at most. In Christmas Sound it is high-water at half past two +o'clock on the days of the full and change, and Mr Wales observed it to +rise and fall on a perpendicular three feet six inches; but this was +during the neap tides, consequently the spring tides must rise higher. +To give such an account of the tides and currents on these coasts as +navigators might depend on, would require a multitude of observations, +and in different places, the making of which would be a work of time. I +confess myself unprovided with materials for such a task; and believe +that the less I say on this subject the fewer mistakes I shall make. But +I think I have been able to observe, that in Strait Le Maire the +southerly tide or current, be it flood or ebb, begins to act on the days +of new and full moon about four o'clock, which remark may be of use to +ships who pass the strait. + +Were I bound round Cape Horn to the west, and not in want of wood or +water, or any other thing that might make it necessary to put into port, +I would not come near the land at all. For by keeping out at sea you +avoid the currents, which, I am satisfied, lose their force at ten or +twelve leagues from land; and at a greater distance, there is none. + +During the time we were upon the coast we had more calms than storms, +and the winds so variable, that I question if a passage might not have +been made from east to west in as short a time as from west to east; nor +did we experience any cold weather. The mercury in the thermometer at +noon was never below 46 deg.; and while we lay in Christmas Sound it was +generally above temperate. At this place the variation was 23 deg. 30' E.; a +few leagues to the S. W. of Strait Le Maire it was 24 deg.; and at anchor, +within New Year's Isles, it was 24 deg. 20' E. + +These isles are, in general, so unlike Staten Land, especially the one +on which we landed, that it deserves a particular description. It shews +a surface of equal height, and elevated about thirty or forty feet above +the sea, from which it is defended by a rocky coast. The inner part of +the isle is covered with a sort of sword-grass, very green, and of a +great length. It grows on little hillocks of two or three feet in +diameter, and as many or more in height, in large tufts, which seemed to +be composed of the roots of the plant matted together. Among these +hillocks are a vast number of paths made by sea-bears and penguins, by +which they retire into the centre of the isle. It is, nevertheless, +exceedingly bad travelling; for these paths are so dirty that one is +sometimes up to the knees in mire. Besides this plant, there are a few +other grasses, a kind of heath, and some celery. The whole surface is +moist and wet, and on the coast are several small streams of water. The +sword-grass, as I call it, seems to be the same that grows in Falkland +Isles, described by Bougainville as a kind of _gladiolus_, or rather a +species of _gramen_[9] and named by Pernety corn-flags. + +[Footnote 9: See English Translation of Bougainville, p. 51.] + +The animals found on this little spot are sea-lions, sea-bears, a +variety of oceanic, and some land-birds. The sea-lion is pretty well +described by Pernety, though those we saw here have not such fore-feet +or fins as that he has given a plate of, but such fins as that which he +calls the sea-wolf. Nor did we see any of the size he speaks of; the +largest not being more than twelve or fourteen feet in length, and +perhaps eight or ten in circumference. They are not of that kind +described under the same name by Lord Anson; but, for aught I know, +these would more properly deserve that appellation: The long hair, with +which the back of the head, the neck and shoulders, are covered, giving +them greatly the air and appearance of a lion. The other part of the +body is covered with short hair, little longer than that of a cow or a +horse, and the whole is a dark-brown. The female is not half so big as +the male, and is covered with a short hair of an ash or light-dun +colour. They live, as it were, in herds, on the rocks, and near the +sea-shore. As this was the time for engendering as well as bringing +forth their young, we have seen a male with twenty or thirty females +about him, and always very attentive to keep them all to himself, and +beating off every other male who attempted to come into his flock. +Others again had a less number; some no more than one or two; and here +and there we have seen one lying growling in a retired, place, alone, +and suffering neither males nor females to approach him: We judged these +were old and superannuated. + +The sea-bears are not so large, by far, as the lions, but rather larger +than a common seal. They have none of that long hair which distinguishes +the lion. Theirs is all of an equal length, and finer than that of the +lion, something like an otter's, and the general colour is that of an +iron-grey. This is the kind which the French call sea-wolfs, and the +English seals; they are, however, different from the seals we have in +Europe and North America. The lions may, too, without any great +impropriety, be called over-grown seals; for they are all of the same +species. It was not at all dangerous to go among them, for they either +fled or lay still. The only danger was in going between them and the +sea; for if they took fright at any thing, they would come down in such +numbers, that, if you could not get out of their way, you would be run +over. Sometimes, when we came suddenly upon them, or waked them out of +their sleep, (for they are a sluggish sleepy animal), they would raise +up their heads; snort and snarl, and look as fierce as if they meant to +devour us; but as we advanced upon them they always run away, so that +they are downright bullies. + +The penguin is an amphibious bird, so well known to most people, that I +shall only observe, they are here in prodigious numbers, so that we +could knock down as many as we pleased with a stick. I cannot say they +are good eating. I have indeed made several good meals of them, but it +was for want of better victuals. They either do not breed here, or else +this was not the season; for we saw neither eggs nor young ones. + +Shags breed here in vast numbers; and we carried on board not a few, as +they are very good eating. They take certain spots to themselves, and +build their nests near the edge of the cliffs on little hillocks, which +are either those of the sword-grass, or else they are made by the shags +building on them from year to year. There is another sort rather smaller +than these, which breed in the cliffs of rocks. + +The geese are of the same sort we found in Christmas Sound; we saw but +few, and some had young ones. Mr Forster shot one which was different +from these, being larger, with a grey plumage, and black feet. The +others make a noise exactly like a duck. Here were ducks, but not many; +and several of that sort which we called race-horses. We shot some, and +found them to weigh twenty-nine or thirty pounds; those who eat of them +said they were very good. + +The oceanic birds were gulls, terns, Port Egmont hens, and a large brown +bird, of the size of an albatross, which Pernety calls quebrantahuessas. +We called them Mother Carey's geese, and found them pretty good eating; +The land-birds were eagles, or hawks, bald-headed vultures, or what our +seamen called turkey-buzzards, thrushes, and a few other small birds. + +Our naturalists found two new species of birds. The one is about the +size of a pigeon, the plumage as white as milk. They feed along-shore, +probably on shell-fish and carrion, for they have a very disagreeable +smell. When we first saw these birds we thought they were the +snow-peterel, but the moment they were in our possession the mistake was +discovered; for they resemble them in nothing but size and colour. These +are not webb-footed. The other sort is a species of curlews nearly as +big as a heron. It has a variegated plumage, the principal colours +whereof are light-grey, and a long crooked bill. + +I had almost forgot to mention that there are sea-pies, or what we +called, when in New Zealand, curlews; but we only saw a few straggling +pairs. It may not be amiss to observe, that the shags are the same bird +which Bougainville calls saw-bills; but he is mistaken in saying that +the quebrantahuessas are their enemies; for this bird is of the peterel +tribe, feeds wholly on fish, and is to be found in all the high southern +latitudes. + +It is amazing to see how the different animals which inhabit this little +spot are mutually reconciled. They seem to have entered into a league +not to disturb each other's tranquillity. The sea-lions occupy most of +the sea-coast; the sea-bears take up their abode in the isle; the shags +have post in the highest cliffs; the penguins fix their quarters where +there is the most easy communication to and from the sea; and the other +birds choose more retired places. We have seen all these animals mix +together, like domestic cattle and poultry in a farm-yard, without one +attempting to molest the other. Nay, I have often observed the eagles +and vultures sitting on the hillocks among the shags, without the +latter, either young or old, being disturbed at their presence. It may +be asked how these birds of prey live? I suppose on the carcases of +seals and birds which die by various causes; and probably not few, as +they are so numerous. + +This very imperfect account is written more with a view to assist my own +memory than to give information to others. I am neither a botanist nor a +naturalist; and have not words to describe the productions of nature, +either in the one branch of knowledge or the other. + + +SECTION V. + +_Proceedings after leaving Staten Island, with an Account of the +Discovery of the Isle of Georgia, and a Description of it._ + + +Having left the land in the evening of the 3d, as before mentioned, we +saw it again next morning, at three o'clock, bearing west. Wind +continued to blow a steady fresh breeze till six p.m., when it shifted +in a heavy squall to S.W., which came so suddenly upon us, that we had +not time to take in the sails, and was the occasion of carrying away a +top-gallant mast, a studding-sail boom, and a fore studding-sail. The +squall ended in a heavy shower of rain, but the wind remained at S.W. +Our course was S.E., with a view of discovering that extensive coast +laid down by Mr Dalrymple in his chart, in which is the gulph of St +Sebastian. I designed to make the western point of that gulph, in order +to have all the other parts before me. Indeed I had some doubt of the +existence of such a coast; and this appeared to me the best route for +clearing it up, and for exploring the southern part of this ocean. + +On the 5th, fresh gales, and wet and cloudy weather. At noon observed in +57 deg. 9', latitude made from Cape St John, 5 deg. 2' E. At six o'clock p.m., +being in the latitude 57 deg. 21', and in longitude 57 deg. 45' W., the +variation was 21 deg. 28' E. + +At eight o'clock in the evening of the 6th, being then in the latitude +of 58 deg. 9' S., longitude 53 deg. 14' W., we close-reefed our top-sails, and +hauled to the north, with a very strong gale at west, attended with a +thick haze and sleet. The situation just mentioned is nearly the same +that Mr Dalrymple assigns for the S.W. point of the gulph of St +Sebastian. But as we saw neither land, nor signs of land, I was the more +doubtful of its existence, and was fearful that, by keeping to the +south, I might miss the land said to be discovered by La Roche in 1675, +and by the ship Lion in 1756, which Mr Dalrymple places in 54 deg. 30' +latitude, and 45 deg. of longitude; but on looking over D'Anville's chart, I +found it laid down 9 deg. or 10 deg. more to the west; this difference of +situation being to me a sign of the uncertainty of both accounts, +determined me to get into the parallel as soon as possible, and was the +reason of my hauling to the north at this time. + +Towards the morning of the 7th the gale abated, the weather cleared up, +and the wind veered to the W.S.W., where it continued till midnight, +after which it veered to N.W. Being at this time in the latitude of 56 deg. +4' S., longitude 53 deg. 36' W., we sounded, but found no bottom with a line +of one hundred and thirty fathoms. I still kept the wind on the +larboard-tack, having a gentle breeze and pleasant weather. On the 8th, +at noon, a bed of sea-weed passed the ship. In the afternoon, in +latitude 55 deg. 4', longitude 51 deg. 43' W., the variation was 20 deg. 4' E. + +On the 9th, wind at N.E., attended with thick hazy weather; saw a seal, +and a piece of sea-weed. At noon, latitude 55 deg. 12' S., longitude 50 deg. 15' +W., the wind and weather continuing the same till towards midnight, when +the latter cleared up, and the former veered to west, and blew a gentle +gale. We continued to ply till two o'clock the next morning, when we +bore away east, and at eight E.N.E.; at noon, observed in latitude 54 deg. +35' S., longitude 47 deg. 56' W., a great many albatrosses and blue peterels +about the ship. I now steered east, and the next morning, in the +latitude of 54 deg. 38', longitude 45 deg. 10' W., the variation was 19 deg. 25' E. +In the afternoon saw several penguins, and some pieces of weed. + +Having spent the night lying-to, on the 12th, at day-break, we bore +away, and steered east northerly, with a fine fresh breeze at W.S.W.; at +noon observed in latitude 54 deg. 28' S., longitude in 42 deg. 8' W.; that is, +near 3 deg. E. of the situation in which Mr Dalrymple places the N.E. point +of the gulph of St Sebastian; but we had no other signs of land than +seeing a seal and a few penguins; on the contrary, we had a swell from +E.S.E., which would hardly have been, if any extensive track of land lay +in that direction. In the evening the gale abated, and at midnight it +fell calm. + +The calm, attended by a thick fog, continued till six next morning, when +we got a wind at east, but the fog still prevailed. We stood to the +south till noon, when, being in the latitude of 55 deg. 7', we tacked and +stretched to the north with a fresh breeze at E. by S. and E.S.E., +cloudy weather; saw several penguins and a snow-peterel, which we looked +on to be signs of the vicinity of ice. The air too was much colder than +we had felt it since we left New Zealand. In the afternoon the wind +veered to the S.E., and in the night to S.S.E., and blew fresh, with +which we stood to the N.E. + +At nine o'clock the next morning we saw an island of ice, as we then +thought, but at noon were doubtful whether it was ice or land. At this +time it bore E. 3/4 S., distant thirteen leagues; our latitude was 53 deg. +56' 1/2, longitude 39 deg. 24' W.; several penguins, small divers, a +snow-peterel, and a vast number of blue peterels about the ship. We had +but little wind all the morning, and at two p.m. it fell calm. It was +now no longer doubted that it was land, and not ice, which we had in +sight. It was, however, in a manner wholly covered with snow. We were +farther confirmed in our judgement of its being land, by finding +soundings at one hundred and seventy-five fathoms, a muddy bottom. The +land at this time bore E. by S., about twelve leagues distant. At six +o'clock the calm was succeeded by a breeze at N.E., with which we stood +to S.E. At first it blew a gentle gale; but afterwards increased so as +to bring us under double-reefed top-sails, and was attended with snow +and sleet. + +We continued to stand to the S.E. till seven in the morning on the +15th, when the wind veering to the S.E., we tacked and stood to the +north. A little before we tacked, we saw the land bearing E. by N. At +noon the mercury in the thermometer was at 35 deg. 1/4. The wind blew in +squalls, attended with snow and sleet, and we had a great sea to +encounter. At a lee-lurch which the ship took, Mr Wales observed her to +lie down 42 deg.. At half past four p.m. we took in the top-sails, got down +top-gallant yards, wore the ship, and stood to the S.W., under two +courses. At midnight the storm abated, so that we could carry the +top-sails double-reefed. + +At four in the morning of the 16th we wore and stood to the east, with +the wind at S.S.E., a moderate breeze, and fair; at eight o'clock saw +the land extending from E. by N. to N.E. by N.; loosed a reef out of +each top-sail, got top-gallant yards across, and set the sails. At noon +observed in latitude 54 deg. 25' 1/2, longitude 38 deg. 18' W. In this situation +we had one hundred and ten fathoms water; and the land extended from N. +1/2 W. to E., eight leagues distant. The northern extreme was the same +that we first discovered, and it proved to be an island, which obtained +the name of Willis's Island, after the person who first saw it. + +At this time we had a great swell from the south, an indication that no +land was near us in that direction; nevertheless the vast quantity of +snow on that in sight induced us to think it was extensive, and I chose +to begin with exploring the northern coast. With this view we bore up +for Willis's Island, all sails set, having a fine gale at S.S.W. As we +advanced to the north, we perceived another isle lying east of Willis's, +and between it and the main. Seeing there was a clear passage between +the two isles, we steered for it, and at five o'clock, being in the +middle of it, we found it about two miles broad. + +Willis's Isle is an high rock of no great extent, near to which are some +rocky islets. It is situated in the latitude of 54 deg. S., longitude 38 deg. +23' W. The other isle, which obtained the name of Bird Isle, on account +of the vast number that were upon it, is not so high, but of greater +extent, and is close to the N.E. point of the main land, which I called +Cape North. + +The S.E. coast of this land, as far as we saw it, lies in the direction +of S. 50 deg. E., and N. 50 deg. W. It seemed to form several bays or inlets; +and we observed huge masses of snow, or ice, in the bottoms of them, +especially in one which lies ten miles to the S.S.E. of Bird Isle. + +After getting through the passage, we found the north coast trended E. +by N., for about nine miles; and then east and east-southerly to Cape +Buller, which is eleven miles more. We ranged the coast, at one league +distance, till near ten o'clock, when we brought-to for the night, and +on sounding found fifty fathoms, a muddy bottom. + +At two o'clock in the morning of the 17th we made sail in for the land, +with a fine breeze at S.W.; at four, Willis's Isle bore W. by S., +distant thirty-two miles; Cape Buller, to the west of which lie some +rocky islets, bore S.W. by W.; and the most advanced point of land to +the east, S. 63 deg. E. We now steered along shore, at the distance of four +or five miles, till seven o'clock, when, seeing the appearance of an +inlet, we hauled in for it. As soon as we drew near the shore, having +hoisted out a boat, I embarked in it, accompanied by Mr Forster and his +party, with a view of reconnoitring the bay before we ventured in with +the ship. When we put off from her, which was about four miles from the +shore, we had forty fathoms water. I continued to sound as I went +farther in, but found no bottom with a line of thirty-four fathoms, +which was the length of that I had in the boat, and which also proved +too short to sound the bay, so far as I went up it. I observed it to lie +in S.W. by S. about two leagues, about two miles broad, well sheltered +from all winds; and I judged there might be good anchorage before some +sandy beaches which are on each side, and likewise near a low flat isle, +towards the head of the bay. As I had come to a resolution not to bring +the ship in, I did not think it worth my while to go and examine these +places; for it did not seem probable that any one would ever be +benefited by the discovery. I landed at three different places, +displayed our colours, and took possession of the country in his +majesty's name, under a discharge of small arms. + +I judged that the tide rises about four or five feet, and that it is +high water on the full and change days about eleven o'clock. + +The head of the bay, as well as two places on each side, was terminated +by perpendicular ice-cliffs of considerable height. Pieces were +continually breaking off, and floating out to sea; and a great fall +happened while we were in the bay, which made a noise like cannon. + +The inner parts of the country were not less savage and horrible. The +wild rocks raised their lofty summits till they were lost in the clouds, +and the valleys lay covered with everlasting snow. Not a tree was to be +seen, nor a shrub even big enough to make a toothpick. The only +vegetation we met with was a coarse strong-bladed grass growing in +tufts, wild burnet, and a plant like moss, which sprung from the rocks. + +Seals, or sea-bears, were pretty numerous. They were smaller than those +at Staten Land: Perhaps the most of those we saw were females, for the +shores swarmed with young cubs. We saw none of that sort which we call +lions; but there were some of those which the writer of Lord Anson's +voyage describes under that name; at least they appeared to us to be of +the same sort; and are, in my opinion, very improperly called lions, for +I could not see any grounds for the comparison. + +Here were several flocks of penguins, the largest I ever saw; some which +we brought on board weighed from twenty-nine to thirty-eight pounds. It +appears by Bougainville's account of the animals of Falkland Islands, +that this penguin is there; and I think it is very well described by him +under the name of first class of penguins. The oceanic birds were +albatrosses, common gulls, and that sort which I call Port Egmont hens, +terns, shags, divers, the new white bird, and a small bird like those of +the Cape of Good Hope, called yellow birds; which, having shot two, we +found most delicious food. + +All the land birds we saw consisted of a few small larks, nor did we +meet with any quadrupeds. Mr Forster indeed observed some dung, which he +judged to come from a fox, or some such animal. The lands, or rather +rocks, bordering on the sea-coast, were not covered with snow like the +inland parts; but all the vegetation we could see on the clear places +was the grass above-mentioned. The rocks seemed to contain iron. Having +made the above observations, we set out for the ship, and got on board a +little after twelve o'clock, with a quantity of seals and penguins, an +acceptable present to the crew. + +It must not, however, be understood that we were in want of provisions: +we had yet plenty of every kind; and since we had been on this coast, I +had ordered, in addition to the common allowance, wheat to be boiled +every morning for breakfast; but any kind of fresh meat was preferred by +most on board to salt. For my own part, I was now, for the first time, +heartily tired of salt meat of every kind; and though the flesh of the +penguins could scarcely vie with bullock's liver, its being fresh was +sufficient to make it go down. I called the bay we had been in, +Possession Bay. It is situated in the latitude of 54 deg. 5' S., longitude +37 deg. 18' W., and eleven leagues to the east of Cape North. A few miles to +the west of Possession Bay, between it and Cape Buller, lies the Bay of +Isles, so named on account of several small isles lying in and before +it. + +As soon as the boat was hoisted in, we made sail along the coast to the +east, with a fine breeze at W.S.W. From Cape Buller the direction of the +coast is S. 72 deg. 30' E., for the space of eleven or twelve leagues, to a +projecting point, which obtained the name of Cape Saunders. Beyond this +cape is a pretty large bay, which I named Cumberland Bay. In several +parts in the bottom of it, as also in some others of less extent, lying +between Cape Saunders and Possession Bay, were vast tracks of frozen +snow, or ice, not yet broken loose. At eight o'clock, being just past +Cumberland Bay, and falling little wind, we hauled off the coast, from +which we were distant about four miles, and found one hundred and ten +fathoms water. + +We had variable light airs and calms till six o'clock the next morning, +when the wind fixed at north, and blew a gentle breeze; but it lasted no +longer than ten o'clock, when it fell almost to a calm. At noon, +observed in latitude 54 deg. 30' S., being then about two or three leagues +from the coast, which extended from N. 59 deg. W. to S. 13 deg. W. The land in +this last direction was an isle, which seemed to be the extremity of the +coast to the east. The nearest land to us being a projecting point which +terminated in a round hillock, was, on account of the day, named Cape +Charlotte. On the west side of Cape Charlotte lies a bay which obtained +the name of Royal Bay, and the west point of it was named Cape George. +It is the east point of Cumberland Bay, and lies in the direction of +S.E. by E. from Cape Saunders, distant seven leagues. Cape George and +Cape Charlotte lie in the direction of S. 37 deg. E. and N. 37 deg. W., distant +six leagues from each other. The isle above-mentioned, which was called +Cooper's Isle, after my first lieutenant, lies in the direction of S. by +E., distant eight leagues from Cape Charlotte. The coast between them +forms a large bay, to which I gave the name of Sandwich. The wind being +variable all the afternoon we advanced but little; in the night it fixed +at S. and S.S.W., and blew a gentle gale, attended with showers of snow. + +The 19th was wholly spent in plying, the wind continuing at S. and +S.S.W., clear pleasant weather, but cold. At sunrise a new land was +seen, bearing S.E. 1/2 E. It first appeared in a single hill, like a +sugar-loaf; some time after other detached pieces appeared above the +horizon near the hill. At noon, observed in the latitude 54 deg. 42' 30" S., +Cape Charlotte bearing N. 38 deg. W., distant four leagues; and Cooper's +Isle S. 31 deg. W. In this situation a lurking rock, which lies off Sandwich +Bay, five miles from the land, bore W. 1/2 N., distant one mile, and +near this rock were several breakers. In the afternoon we had a prospect +of a ridge of mountains behind Sandwich Bay, whose lofty and icy summits +were elevated high above the clouds. The wind continued at S.S.W. till +six o'clock, when it fell to a calm. At this time Cape Charlotte bore N. +31 deg. W., and Cooper's Island W.S.W. In this situation we found the +variation, by the azimuths, to be 11 deg. 39', and by the amplitude, 11 deg. 12' +E. At ten o'clock, a light breeze springing up at north, we steered to +the south till twelve, and then brought-to for the night. + +At two o'clock in the morning of the 20th we made sail to S.W. round +Cooper's Island. It is a rock of considerable height, about five miles +in circuit, and one mile from the main. At this isle the main coast +takes a S.W. direction for the space of four or five leagues to a point, +which I called Cape Disappointment. Off that are three small isles, the +southernmost of which is green, low, and flat, and lies one league from +the cape. + +As we advanced to S.W. land opened, off this point, in the direction of +N. 60 deg. W., and nine leagues beyond it. It proved an island quite +detached from the main, and obtained the name of Pickersgill Island, +after my third officer. Soon after a point of the main, beyond this +island, came in sight, in the direction of N. 55 deg. W., which exactly +united the coast at the very point we had seen, and taken the bearing +of, the day we first came in with it, and proved to a demonstration that +this land, which we had taken for part of a great continent, was no more +than an island of seventy leagues in circuit. + +Who would have thought that an island of no greater extent than this, +situated between the latitude of 54 deg. and 55 deg., should, in the very height +of summer, be in a manner wholly covered, many fathoms deep, with frozen +snow, but more especially the S.W. coast? The very sides and craggy +summits of the lofty mountains were cased with snow and ice; but the +quantity which lay in the valleys is incredible; and at the bottom of +the bays the coast was terminated by a wall of ice of considerable +height. It can hardly be doubted that a great deal of ice is formed here +in the water, which in the spring is broken off, and dispersed over the +sea; but this island cannot produce the ten-thousandth part of what we +saw; so that either there must be more land, or the ice is formed +without it. These reflections led me to think that the land we had seen +the preceding day might belong to an extensive track, and I still had +hopes of discovering a continent. I must confess the disappointment I +now met with did not affect me much; for, to judge of the bulk by the +sample, it would not be worth the discovery. + +I called this island the isle of Georgia, in honour of his majesty. It +is situated, between the latitudes of 53 deg. 57' and 54 deg. 57' S.; and +between 38 deg. 13' and 35 deg. 34' west longitude. It extends S.E. by E. and +N.W. by W., and is thirty-one leagues long in that direction; and its +greatest breadth is about ten leagues. It seems to abound with bays and +harbours, the N.E. coast especially; but the vast quantity of ice must +render them inaccessible the greatest part of the year; or, at least, it +must be dangerous lying in them, on account of the breaking up of the +ice cliffs. + +It is remarkable that we did not see a river, or stream of fresh water, +on the whole coast. I think it highly probable that there are no +perennial springs in the country; and that the interior parts, as being +much elevated, never enjoy heat enough to melt the snow in such +quantities as to produce a river, or stream, of water. The coast alone +receives warmth sufficient to melt the snow, and this only on the N.E. +side; for the other, besides being exposed to the cold south winds, is, +in a great degree, deprived of the sun's rays, by the uncommon height of +the mountains. + +It was from a persuasion that the sea-coast of a land situated in the +latitude of 54 deg., could not, in the very height of summer, be wholly +covered with snow, that I supposed Bouvet's discovery to be large +islands of ice. But after I had seen this land, I no longer hesitated +about the existence of Cape Circumcision; nor did I doubt that I should +find more land than I should have time to explore. With these ideas I +quitted this coast, and directed my course to the E.S.E. for the land we +had seen the preceding day. + +The wind was very variable till noon, when it fixed at N.N.E., and blew +a gentle gale; but it increased in such a manner, that, before three +o'clock, we were reduced to our two courses, and obliged to strike +top-gallant yards. We were very fortunate in getting clear of the land, +before this gale overtook us; it being hard to say what might have been +the consequence had it come on while we were on the north coast. This +storm was of short duration; for, at eight o'clock it began to abate; +and at midnight it was little wind. We then took the opportunity to +sound, but found no bottom with a line of an hundred and eighty fathoms. + +Next day the storm was succeeded by a thick fog, attended with rain; the +wind veered to N.W., and, at five in the morning, it fell calm, which +continued till eight; and then we got a breeze southerly, with which we +stood to the east till three in the afternoon. The weather then coming +somewhat clear, we made sail, and steered north in search of land; but, +at half-past six, we were again involved in a thick mist, which made it +necessary to haul the wind, and spend the night in making short boards. + +We had variable light airs next to a calm, and thick foggy weather, till +half-past seven o'clock in the evening of the 22d, when we got a fine +breeze at north, and the weather was so clear that we could see two or +three leagues round us. We seized the opportunity, and steered to west; +judging we were to the east of the land. After running ten miles to the +west, the weather again became foggy, and we hauled the wind, and spent +the night under top-sails. + +Next morning at six o'clock, the fog clearing away, so that we could see +three or four miles, I took the opportunity to steer again to the west, +with the wind at east, a fresh breeze; but two hours after, a thick fog +once more obliged us to haul the wind to the south. At eleven o'clock, a +short interval of clear weather gave us view of three or four rocky +islets extending from S.E. to E.N.E., two or three miles distant; but +we did not see the Sugar-Loaf Peak beforementioned. Indeed, two or three +miles was the extent of our horizon. + +We were well assured that this was the land we had seen before, which we +had now been quite round; and therefore it could be no more than a few +detached rocks, receptacles for birds, of which we now saw vast numbers, +especially shags, who gave us notice of the vicinity of land before we +saw it. These rocks lie in the latitude of 55 deg. S., and S. 75 deg. E., +distant twelve leagues from Cooper's Isle. + +The interval of clear weather was of very short duration, before we had +as thick a fog as ever, attended with rain, on which we tacked in sixty +fathoms water, and stood to the north. Thus we spent our time, involved +in a continual thick mist; and, for aught we knew, surrounded by +dangerous rocks. The shags and soundings were our best pilots; for after +we had stood a few miles to the north, we got out of soundings, and saw +no more shags. The succeeding day and night we spent in making short +boards; and at eight o'clock on the 24th, judging ourselves not far from +the rocks by some straggling shags which came about us, we sounded in +sixty fathoms water, the bottom stones and broken shells. Soon after, we +saw the rocks bearing S.S.W. 1/2 W., four miles distant, but still we +did not see the peak. It was, no doubt, beyond our horizon, which was +limited to a short distance; and, indeed, we had but a transient sight +of the other rocks, before they were again lost in the fog. + +With a light air of wind at north, and a great swell from N.E., we were +able to clear the rocks to the west; and, at four in the p.m., judging +ourselves to be three or four leagues east and west of them, I steered +south, being quite tired with cruizing about them in a thick fog; nor +was it worth my while to spend any more time in waiting for clear +weather, only for the sake of having a good sight of a few straggling +rocks. At seven o'clock, we had at intervals a clear sky to the west, +which gave us a sight of the mountains of the isle of Georgia, bearing +W.N.W., about eight leagues distant. At eight o'clock we steered S.E. by +S., and at ten S.E. by E., with a fresh breeze at north, attended with a +very thick fog; but we were, in some measure, acquainted with the sea +over which we were running. The rocks above-mentioned obtained the name +of Clerke's Rocks, after my second officer, he being the first who saw +them.[10] + +[Footnote 10: There was no inducement to offer a single remark on the +discoveries mentioned in this section, and the one that follows, or to +give any additional observations from the works hitherto used. It is +utterly improbable that any human being could be benefited by the most +perfect information that might be afforded, respecting these desolate +regions. Mr G.F. it is true, hazards a speculation, that if the northern +ocean should ever be cleared of whales, by our annual fisheries, this +part of the southern hemisphere might be visited for the sake of +procuring these animals so abundant in it. But as besides this proviso, +he thinks it necessary that Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego should be +inhabited and civilized like Scotland and Sweden, there will evidently +be time enough some centuries hence, to investigate minutely the +geography and natural history of Georgia and its kindred +neighbours.--E.] + + +SECTION VI. + +_ Proceedings after leaving the Isle of Georgia, with an Account of the +Discovery of Sandwich Land; with some Reasons for there being Land about +the South Pole_. + + +On the 25th, we steered E.S.E., with a fresh gale at N.N.E., attended +with foggy weather, till towards the evening, when the sky becoming +clear, we found the variation to be 9 deg. 26' E., being at this time in the +latitude of 56 deg. 16' S., longitude 32 deg. 9' W. + +Having continued to steer E.S.E., with a fine gale at N.N.W., till +day-light next morning, on seeing no land to the east, I gave orders to +steer south, being at this time in the latitude of 56 deg. 33' S., longitude +31 deg. 10' W. The weather continued clear, and gave us an opportunity to +observe several distances of the sun and moon for the correcting our +longitude, which at noon was 31 deg. 4' W., the latitude observed 57 deg. 38' S. +We continued to steer to the south till the 27th, at noon, at which time +we were in the latitude of 59 deg. 46' S., and had so thick a fog that we +could not see a ship's length. It being no longer safe to sail before +the wind, as we were to expect soon to fall in with ice, I therefore +hauled to the east, having a gentle breeze at N.N.E. Soon after the fog +clearing away, we resumed our course to the south till four o'clock, +when it returned again as thick as ever, and made it necessary for us to +haul upon a wind. + +I now reckoned we were in latitude 60 deg. S., and farther I did not intend +to go, unless I observed some certain signs of soon meeting with land. +For it would not have been prudent in me to have spent my time in +penetrating to the south, when it was at least as probable that a large +tract of land might be found near Cape Circumcision. Besides, I was +tired of these high southern latitudes, where nothing was to be found +but ice and thick fogs. We had now a long hollow swell from the west, a +strong indication that there was no land in that direction; so that I +think I may venture to assert that the extensive coast, laid down in Mr +Dalrymple's chart of the ocean between Africa and America, and the Gulph +of St Sebastian, do not exist. + +At seven o'clock in the evening, the fog receding from us a little, gave +us a sight of an ice island, several penguins and some snow peterels; we +sounded, but found no ground at one hundred and forty fathoms. The fog +soon returning, we spent the night in making boards over that space +which we had, in some degree, made ourselves acquainted with in the day. + +At eight in the morning of the 28th, we stood to the east, with a gentle +gale at north; the weather began to clear up; and we found the sea +strewed with large and small ice; several penguins, snow peterels, and +other birds were seen, and some whales. Soon after we had sun-shine, but +the air was cold; the mercury in the thermometer stood generally at +thirty-five, but at noon it was 37 deg.; the latitude by observation was 60 deg. +4' S., longitude 29 deg. 23' W. + +We continued to stand to the east till half-past two o'clock, p.m., when +we fell in, all at once, with a vast number of large ice-islands, and a +sea strewed with loose ice. The weather too was become thick and hazy, +attended with drizzling rain and sleet, which made it the more dangerous +to stand in among the ice. For this reason we tacked and stood back to +the west, with the wind at north. The ice-islands, which at this time +surrounded us, were nearly all of equal height, and shewed a flat even +surface; but they were of various extent, some being two or three miles +in circuit. The loose ice was what had broken from these isles. + +Next morning, the wind falling and veering to S.W., we steered N.E.; but +this coarse was soon intercepted by numerous ice-islands; and, having +but very little wind, we were obliged to steer such courses as carried +us the clearest of them; so that we hardly made any advance, one way or +other, during the whole day. Abundance of whales and penguins were about +us all the time; and the weather fair, but dark and gloomy. + +At midnight the wind began to freshen at N.N.E., with which we stood to +the N.W., till six in the morning of the 30th, when the wind veering to +N.N.W., we tacked and stood to N.E., and soon after sailed through a +good deal of loose ice, and passed two large islands. Except a short +interval of clear weather about nine o'clock, it was continually foggy, +with either sleet or snow. At noon we were, by our reckoning, in the +latitude of 59 deg. 3O' S., longitude 29 deg. 24' W. + +Continuing to stand to N.E. with a fresh breeze at N.N.W., at two +o'clock, we passed one of the largest ice-islands we had seen in the +voyage, and some time after passed two others, which were much smaller; +Weather still foggy, with sleet: And the wind continued at N. by W., +with which we stood to N.E., over a sea strewed with ice. + +At half an hour past six next morning, as we were standing N.N.E. with +the wind at west, the fog very fortunately clearing away a little, we +discovered land ahead, three or four miles distant. On this we hauled +the wind to the north; but finding we could not weather the land on this +tack, we soon after tacked in one hundred and seventy-five fathoms +water, three miles from the shore, and about half a league from some +breakers. The weather then cleared up a little more, and gave us a +tolerably good sight of the land. That which we had fallen in with +proved three rocky islets of considerable height. The outermost +terminated in a lofty peak like a sugar-loaf, and obtained the name of +Freezeland Peak, after the man who first discovered it. Latitude 59 deg. S., +longitude 27 deg. W. Behind this peak, that is to the east of it, appeared +an elevated coast, whose lofty snow-clad summits were seen above the +clouds. It extended from N. by E. to E.S.E., and I called it Cape +Bristol, in honour of the noble family of Hervey. At the same time +another elevated coast appeared in sight, bearing S.W. by S., and at +noon it extended from S.E. to S.S.W., from four to eight leagues +distant; at this time the observed latitude was 59 deg. 13' 30" S., +longitude 27 deg. 45' W. I called this land Southern Thule, because it is +the most southern land that has ever yet been discovered. It shews a +surface of vast height, and is every where covered with snow. Some +thought they saw land in the space between Thule and Cape Bristol. It is +more than probable that these two lands are connected, and that this +space is a deep bay, which I called Forster's Bay. + +At one o'clock, finding that we could not weather Thule, we tacked and +stood to the north, and at four, Freezeland Peak bore east, distant +three or four leagues. Soon after, it fell little wind, and we were left +to the mercy of a great westerly swell, which set right upon the shore. +We sounded, but a line of two hundred fathoms found no bottom. + +At eight o'clock, the weather, which had been very hazy, clearing up, we +saw Cape Bristol bearing E.S.E., and terminating in a point to the +north, beyond which we could see no land. This discovery relieved us +from the fear of being carried by the swell on the most horrible coast +in the world, and we continued to stand to the north all night, with a +light breeze at west. + +On the 1st of February, at four o'clock in the morning, we got sight of +a new coast, which at six o'clock bore N. 60 deg. east. It proved a high +promontory, which I named Cape Montagu, situated in latitude 58 deg. 27' S., +longitude 26 deg. 44' west, and seven or eight leagues to the north of Cape +Bristol. We saw land from space to space between them, which made me +conclude that the whole was connected. I was sorry I could not determine +this with greater certainty; but prudence would not permit me to venture +near a coast, subject to thick fogs, on which there was no anchorage; +where every port was blocked or filled up with ice; and the whole +country, from the summits of the mountains, down to the very brink of +the cliffs which terminate the coast, covered, many fathoms thick, with +everlasting snow. The cliffs alone was all which was to be seen like +land. + +Several large ice-islands lay upon the coast; one of which attracted my +notice. It had a flat surface, was of considerable extent both in height +and circuit, and had perpendicular sides, on which the waves of the sea +had made no impression; by which I judged that it had not been long from +land, and that it might lately have come out of some bay on the coast, +where it had been formed. + +At noon we were east and west of the northern part of Cape Montagu, +distant about five leagues, and Freezeland Peak bore S. 16 deg. east, +distant twelve leagues; latitude observed 58 deg. 25' S. In the morning the +variation was 10 deg. 11' east. At two in the afternoon, as we were standing +to the north, with a light breeze at S.W., we saw land bearing N. 25' +east, distant fourteen leagues. Cape Montagu bore at this time, S. 66 deg. +east; at eight it bore S. 40 deg. east; Cape Bristol, S. by E.; the new land +extending from N. 40 deg. to 52 deg. east; and we thought we saw land still more +to the east, and beyond it. + +Continuing to steer to the north all night, at six o'clock the next +morning a new land was seen bearing N. 12 deg. east, about ten leagues +distant. It appeared in two hummocks just peeping above the horizon; but +we soon after lost sight of them; and having got the wind at N.N.E. a +fresh breeze, we stood for the northernmost land we had seen the day +before, which at this time bore E.S.E. We fetched in with it by ten +o'clock, but could not weather it, and were obliged to tack three miles +from the coast, which extended from E. by S. to S.E., and had much the +appearance of being an island of about eight or ten leagues circuit. It +shews a surface of considerable height, whose summit was lost in the +clouds, and, like all the neighbouring lands, covered with a sheet of +snow and ice, except in a projecting point on the north side, and two +hills seen over this point, which probably might be two islands. These +only were clear of snow, and seemed covered with a green turf. Some +large ice islands lay to the N.E., and some others to the south. + +We stood off till noon, and then tacked for the land again, in order to +see whether it was an island or no. The weather was now become very +hazy, which soon turning to a thick fog, put a stop to discovery, and +made it unsafe to stand for the shore; so that after having run the same +distance in, as we had run off, we tacked and stood to N.W., for the +land we had seen in the morning, which was yet at a considerable +distance. Thus we were obliged to leave the other, under the supposition +of its being an island, which I named Saunders, after my honourable +friend Sir Charles. It is situated in the latitude of 57 deg. 49' south +longitude, 26 deg. 44' west; and north, distant thirteen leagues, from Cape +Montagu. + +At six o'clock in the evening, the wind shifting to the west, we tacked, +and stood to the north; and at eight the fog clearing away, gave us a +sight of Saunders's Isle, extending from S.E. by S. to E.S.E. We were +still in doubt if it was an island; for, at this time, land was seen +bearing E. by S., which might or might not be connected with it; it +might also be the same that we had seen the preceding evening. But, be +this as it may, it was now necessary to take a view of the land to the +north, before we proceeded any farther to the east. With this intention, +we stood to the north, having a light breeze at W. by S., which at two +o'clock in the morning of the 3d, was succeeded by a calm that continued +till eight, when we got the wind at E. by S. attended by hazy weather. +At this time we saw the land we were looking for, and which proved to be +two isles. The day on which they were discovered, was the occasion of +calling them Candlemas Isles; latitude 57 deg. 11' S., longitude 27 deg. 6' W. +They were of no great extent, but of considerable height, and were +covered with snow. A small rock was seen between them, and perhaps there +may be more; for the weather was so hazy that we soon lost sight of the +islands, and did not see them again till noon, at which time they bore +west, distant three or four leagues. + +As the wind kept veering to the south, we were obliged to stand to the +N.E., in which route we met with several large ice islands, loose ice, +and many penguins; and at midnight, came at once into water uncommonly +white, which alarmed the officer of the watch so much, that he tacked +the ship instantly. Some thought it was a float of ice; others that it +was shallow water; but, as it proved neither, probably it was a shoal of +fish. + +We stood to the south till two o'clock next morning, when we resumed our +course to the east with a faint breeze at S.S.E. which having ended in a +calm, at six, I took the opportunity of putting a boat in the water to +try if there were any current; and the trial proved there was none. Some +whales were playing about us, and abundance of penguins: a few of the +latter were shot, and they proved to be of the same sort that we had +seen among the ice before, and different both from those on Staten Land, +and from those at the isle of Georgia. It is remarkable, that we had not +seen a seal since we left that coast. At noon we were in latitude of 56 deg. +44' S., longitude 25 deg. 33' W. At this time we got a breeze at east, with +which we stood to the south, with a view of gaining the coast we had +left; but at eight o'clock the wind shifted to the south, and made it +necessary to tack and stand to the east; in which course we met with +several ice-islands and some loose ice; the weather continuing hazy with +snow and rain. + +No penguins were seen on the 5th, which made me conjecture that we were +leaving the land behind us, and that we had already seen its northern +extremity. At noon we were in the latitude of 57 deg. 8' S., longitude 23 deg. +34' west, which was 3 deg. of longitude to the east of Saunders's Isle. In +the afternoon the wind shifted to the west; this enabled us to stretch +to the south, and to get into the latitude of the land, that, if it took +an east direction, we might again fall in with it. + +We continued to steer to the south and S.E. till next day at noon, at +which time we were in the latitude of 58 deg. 15' S., longitude 21 deg. 34' +west, and seeing neither land nor signs of any, I concluded that what we +had seen, which I named Sandwich Land, was either a group of islands, or +else a point of the continent. For I firmly believe that there is a +tract of land near the Pole which is the source of most of the ice that +is spread over this vast southern ocean. I also think it probable that +it extends farthest to the north opposite the southern Atlantic and +Indian oceans; because ice was always found by us farther to the north +in these oceans than any where else, which I judge could not be, if +there were not land to the south; I mean a land of considerable extent. +For if we suppose that no such land exists, and that ice may be formed +without it, it will follow of course that the cold ought to be every +where nearly equal round the Pole, as far as 70 deg. or 60' of latitude, or +so far as to be beyond the influence of any of the known continents; +consequently we ought to see ice every where under the same parallel, or +near it; and yet the contrary has been, found. Very few ships have met +with ice going round Cape Horn: And we saw but little below the sixtieth +degree of latitude, in the Southern Pacific Ocean. Whereas in this +ocean, between the meridian of 40 deg. west and 50 deg. or 60 deg. east, we found +ice as far north as 51 deg.. Bouvet met with, some in 48 deg., and others have +seen it in a much lower latitude. It is true, however, that the greatest +part of this southern continent (supposing there is one), must lie +within the polar circle, where the sea is so pestered with ice, that the +land is thereby inaccessible. The risque one runs in exploring a coast, +in these unknown and icy seas, is so very great, that I can be bold +enough to say that no man will ever venture farther than I have done; +and that the lands which may lie to the south will never be explored. +Thick fogs, snow storms, intense cold, and every other thing that can +render navigation dangerous, must be encountered, and these difficulties +are greatly heightened by the inexpressibly horrid aspect of the +country; a country doomed by nature never once to feel the warmth of +the sun's rays, but to lie buried in everlasting snow and ice. The ports +which may be on the coast, are, in a manner, wholly filled up with +frozen snow of vast thickness; but if any should be so far open as to +invite a ship into it, she would run a risque of being fixed there for +ever, or of coming out in an ice island. The islands and floats on the +coast, the great falls from the ice-cliffs in the port, or a heavy +snow-storm attended with a sharp frost, would be equally fatal. + +After such an explanation as this, the reader must not expect to find me +much farther to the south. It was, however, not for want of inclination, +but for other reasons. It would have been rashness in me to have risqued +all that had been done during the voyage, in discovering and exploring a +coast, which, when discovered and explored, would have answered no end +whatever, or have been of the least use, either to navigation or +geography, or indeed to any other science. Bouvet's discovery was yet +before us, the existence of which was to be cleared up; and, besides all +this, we were not now in a condition to undertake great things; nor +indeed was there time, had we been ever so well provided. + +These reasons induced me to alter the course to the east, with a very +strong gale at north, attended with an exceedingly heavy fall of snow. +The quantity which lodged on our sails was so great, that we were +frequently obliged to throw the ship up in the wind to shake it out of +them, otherwise neither they nor the ship could have supported the +weight. In the evening it ceased to snow; the weather cleared up, the +wind backed to the west, and we spent the night in making two short +boards, under close-reefed top-sails and fore-sail. + +At day-break on the 7th, we resumed our course to the east, with a very +fresh gale at S.W. by W., attended by a high sea from the same +direction. In the afternoon, being in the latitude of 58 deg. 24' S., +longitude 16 deg. 19' west, the variation was 1 deg. 52' east. Only three +ice-islands seen this day. At eight o'clock, shortened sail, and hauled +the wind to the S.E. for the night, in which we had several showers of +snow and sleet. + +On the 8th at day-light, we resumed our east course with a gentle breeze +and fair weather. After sun-rise, being then in the latitude of 58 deg. 30' +S., longitude 15 deg. 14' west, the variation, by the mean results of two +compasses, was 2 deg. 43' east. These observations were more to be depended +on than those made the night before, there being much less sea now than +then. In the afternoon, we passed three ice-islands. This night was +spent as the preceding. + +At six next morning, being in the latitude of 58 deg. 27' S., longitude 13 deg. +4' W., the variation was 26' E.; and in the afternoon, being in the same +latitude, and about a quarter of a degree more to the east, it was 2' +west. Therefore this last situation must be in or near the Line, in +which the compass has no variation. We had a calm the most part of the +day. The weather fair and clear, excepting now and then a snow-shower. +The mercury in the thermometer at noon rose to 40; whereas, for several +days before, it had been no higher than 36 or 38. We had several +ice-islands in sight, but no one thing that could induce us to think +that any land was in our neighbourhood. At eight in the evening a breeze +sprung up at S.E., with which we stood to N.E. + +During the night the wind freshened and veered south, which enabled us +to steer east. The wind was attended with showers of sleet and snow till +day-light, when the weather became fair, but piercing cold, so that the +water on deck was frozen, and at noon the mercury in the thermometer was +no higher than 34-1/2. At six o'clock in the morning, the variation was +23' west, being then in the latitude of 58 deg. 15' S., longitude 11 deg. 41' W; +and at six in the evening, being in the same latitude, and in the +longitude of 9 deg. 24' W., it was 1 deg. 51' W. In the evening the wind abated; +and during the night, it was variable between south and west. +Ice-islands continually in sight. + +On the 11th, wind westerly, light airs attended with heavy showers of +snow in the morning; but as the day advanced, the weather became fair, +clear, and serene. Still continuing to steer east, at noon we observed +in latitude 58 deg. 11', longitude at the same time 7 deg. 55' west. Thermometer +34-2/3. In the afternoon we had two hours calm; after which we had faint +breezes between the N.E. and S.E. + +At six o'clock in the morning of the 12th, being in the latitude of 58 deg. +23' S., longitude 6 deg. 54' W., the variation was 3 deg. 23' west. We had +variable light airs next to a calm all this day, and the weather was +fair and clear till towards the evening, when it became cloudy with +snow-showers, and the air very cold. Ice-islands continually in sight; +most of them small and breaking to pieces. + +In the afternoon of the 13th, the wind increased, the sky became +clouded, and soon after we had a very heavy fall of snow, which +continued till eight or nine o'clock in the evening, when the wind +abating and veering to S.E., the sky cleared up, and we had a fair +night, attended with so sharp a frost, that the water in all our vessels +on deck was next morning covered with a sheet of ice. The mercury in the +thermometer was as low as 29 deg., which is 3 deg. below freezing, or rather 4; +for we generally found the water freeze when the mercury stood at 33 deg.. + +Towards noon on the 14th, the wind veering to the south, increased to a +very strong gale, and blew in heavy squalls attended with snow. At +intervals, between the squalls, the weather was fair and clear, but +exceedingly cold. We continued to steer east, inclining a little to the +north, and in, the afternoon crossed the first meridian, or that of +Greenwich, in the latitude of 57 deg. 50' S. At eight in, the evening, we +close-reefed the top-sails, took in the main-sail, and steered east with +a very hard gale at S.S.W., and a high sea from the same direction. + +At day-break on the 15th, we set the main-sail, loosed a reef out of +each top-sail, and with a very strong gale at S.W., and fair weather, +steered E.N.E. till noon, at which, time we were in latitude of 50 deg. 37' +S., longitude 4 deg. 11' E., when we pointed to the N.E., in order to get +into the latitude of Cape Circumcision. Some large ice-islands were in +sight, and the air was nearly as cold as on the preceding day. At eight +o'clock in the evening, shortened sail, and at eleven hauled the wind to +the N.W., not daring to stand on in the night, which was foggy, with +snow-showers, and a smart frost. + +At day-break on the 16th, we bore away N.E., with a light breeze at +west, which, at noon, was succeeded by a calm and fair weather. Our +latitude at this time was 55 deg. 26' S., longitude 5 deg. 52' E., in which +situation we had a great swell from the southward, but no ice in sight. +At one o'clock in the p.m., a breeze springing up at E.N.E., we stood to +S.E. till six, then tacked, and stood to the north, under double-reefed +top-sails and courses, having a very fresh gale attended with snow and +sleet, which fixed to the masts and rigging as it fell, and coated the +whole with ice. + +On the 17th the wind continued veering, by little and little, to the +south, till midnight, when it fixed at S.W. Being at this time in the +latitude of 54 deg. 20' S., longitude 6 deg. 33' east, I steered east, having a +prodigious high sea from the south, which assured us no land was near in +that direction. + +In the morning of the 18th, it ceased to snow; the weather became fair +and clear; and we found the variation to be 18 deg. 44' west. At noon we +were in the latitude of 54 deg. 25', longitude 8 deg. 46' east. I thought this a +good latitude to keep in, to look for Cape Circumcision; because, if the +land had ever so little extent in the direction of north and south, we +could not miss seeing it, as the northern point is said to lie in 54 deg.. +We had yet a great swell from the south, so that I was now well assured +it could only be an island, and it was of no consequence which side we +fell in with. In the evening Mr Wales made several observations of the +moon, and stars Regulus and Spica; the mean results, at four o'clock +when the observations were made, for finding the time by the watch, gave +9 deg. 15' 20" east longitude. The watch at the same time gave 9 deg. 36' 45". +Soon after the variation was found to be 13 deg. 10' west. It is nearly in +this situation that Mr Bouvet had 1 deg. east. I cannot suppose that the +variation has altered so much since that time; but rather think he had +made some mistake in his observations. That there could be none in ours +was certain, from the uniformity for some time past. Besides, we found +12 deg. 8' west, variation, nearly under this meridian, in January 1773. +During the night the wind veered round by the N.W. to N.N.E. and blew a +fresh gale. + +At eight in the morning of the 19th, we saw the appearance of land in +the direction of E. by S., or that of our course; but it proved a mere +fog-bank, and soon after dispersed. We continued to steer E. by S. and +S.E., till seven o'clock in the evening, when being in the latitude of +54 deg. 42' S., longitude 13 deg. 3' E., and the wind having veered to N.E., we +tacked and stood to N.W. under close-reefed topsails and courses; having +a very strong gale attended with snow-showers. + +At four o'clock next morning, being in the latitude of 54 deg. 30' S., +longitude 12 deg. 33'. east, we tacked and stretched to N.E. with a fresh +gale at S.W., attended with snow-showers and sleet. At noon, being in +the latitude of 54 deg. 8' S., longitude 12 deg. 59' E., with a fresh gale at W. +by N., and tolerably clear weather, we steered east till ten o'clock in +the evening, when we brought-to, lest we might pass any land in the +night, of which we however had not the least signs. + +At day-break, having made sail, we bore away E., and at noon observed in +latitude 54 deg. 16' S., longitude 16 deg. 13' east, which is 5 deg. to the east of +the longitude in which Cape Circumcision is said to lie; so that we +began to think there was no such land in existence. I however continued +to steer east, inclining a little to the south, till four o'clock in the +afternoon of the next day, when we were in latitude 54 deg. 24' S., +longitude 19 deg. 18' east. + +We had now run down thirteen degrees of longitude in the very latitude +assigned for Bouvet's Land. I was therefore well assured that what he +had seen could be nothing but an island of ice; for, if it had been +land, it is hardly possible we could have missed it, though it were ever +so small. Besides, from the time of leaving the southern lands, we had +not met with the least signs of any other. But even suppose we had, it +would have been no proof of the existence of Cape Circumcision; for I am +well assured that neither seals nor penguins, nor any of the oceanic +birds, are indubitable signs of the vicinity of land. I will allow that +they are found on the coasts of all these southern lands; but are they +not also to be found in all parts of the southern ocean? There are, +however, some oceanic or aquatic birds which point out the vicinity of +land; especially shags, which seldom go out of sight of it; and gannets, +boobies, and men-of-war birds, I believe, seldom go very far out to sea. + +As we were now no more than two degrees of longitude front our route to +the south, when we left the Cape of Good Hope, it was to no purpose to +proceed any farther to the east under this parallel, knowing that no +land could be there. But an opportunity now offering of clearing up some +doubts of our having seen land farther to the south, I steered S.E. to +get into the situation in which it was supposed to lie. + +We continued this course till four o'clock the next morning, and then +S.E. by E. and E.S.E., till eight in the evening, at which time we were +in the latitude of 55 deg. 25' S., longitude 23 deg. 22' east, both deduced from +observations made the same day; for, in the morning, the sky was clear +at intervals, and afforded an opportunity to observe several distances +of the sun and moon, which we had not been able to do for some time +past, having had a constant succession of bad weather. + +Having now run over the place where the land was supposed to lie, +without seeing the least signs of any, it was no longer to be doubted +but that the ice-islands had deceived us as well as Mr Bouvet. The wind +by this time having veered to the north, and increased to a perfect +storm, attended as usual with snow and sleet, we handed the top-sails +and hauled up E.N.E. under the courses. During the night the wind +abated, and veered to N.W., which enabled us to steer more to the north, +having no business farther south. + + + +SECTION VII. + +_Heads of what has been done in the Voyage; with some Conjectures +concerning the Formation of Ice-Islands; and an Account of our +Proceedings till our Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope._ + + +I had now made the circuit of the southern ocean in a high latitude, and +traversed it in such a manner as to leave not the least room for the +possibility of there being a continent, unless near the Pole, and out of +the reach of navigation. By twice visiting the tropical sea, I had not +only settled the situation of some old discoveries, but made there many +new ones, and left, I conceive, very little more to be done even in that +part. Thus I flatter myself, that the intention of the voyage has, in +every respect, been fully answered; the southern hemisphere sufficiently +explored, and a final end put to the searching after a southern +continent, which has, at times, ingrossed the attention of some of the +maritime powers, for near two centuries past, and been a favourite +theory amongst the geographers of all ages. + +That there may be a continent, or large tract of land, near the Pole, I +will not deny; on the contrary I am of opinion there is; and it is +probable that we have seen a part of it. The excessive cold, the many +islands and vast floats of ice, all tend to prove that there must be +land to the south; and for my persuasion that this southern land must +lie, or extend, farthest to the north opposite to the southern Atlantic +and Indian oceans, I have already assigned some reasons; to which I may +add the greater degree of cold experienced by us in these seas, than in +the southern Pacific ocean under the same parallels of latitude.[11] + +[Footnote 11: After what has been said of the utter inutility of a +southern continent to any human being, or even in the way of hypothesis +to explain the constitution of nature, it may seem quite unnecessary to +occupy a moment's attention about any arguments for its existence. As, +however, a few remarks were hazarded respecting those of a mathematical +kind, it may be proper to say a word or two as to others of a physical +nature. Two reasons for this supposition have been urged; viz. the +presence of rivers necessary to account for the large masses of +fresh-water ice found in high southern latitudes; and the existence of +firm and immoveable points of land round which these masses might form. +The first of these is glaringly erroneous in point of principle and +fact. In the first place, it is most certain, that the waters of the +ocean admit of being frozen, and that when so, they either do or do not +contain the salts they held in solution, according to certain +circumstances, which the argument does not require to be explained. And, +secondly, it is absurd to imagine that lands in the vicinity of the Pole +should have any rivers, as the snow-line, as it has been called, reaches +so low down there as the surface of the earth, and as the temperature of +the atmosphere, reckoning from what is known of it in high latitudes, +can scarcely ever be above that point at which water becomes solid. The +second argument is equally unsubstantial, and may be as readily +invalidated. In fact, the principal thing requisite for the congelation +of water in any circumstances of situation, is the reduction of the +temperature to a certain point, to the effect of which, it is well +known, the agitation of the water often materially contributes. It may +be remarked also, that as the beat of the ocean seems to diminish in +pretty regular progression from the surface downwards, so it is highly +probable, that, even at considerable distances from the Pole, the lower +strata may be in a state of congelation; much more probably, therefore, +there may exist at and near the Pole, a mass of ice of indefinite size +and durability, which, extending to greater or smaller distances +according to different circumstances, may serve as the basis, or _point +d'appui_, of all the islands and fields of ice discoverable in this +region. Ice, in fact, is just as capable of a fixed position as earth +is, or any other solid body, and may accordingly have constituted the +substratum of the southern hemisphere within the polar circle, since the +time that this planet assumed its present form and condition. So much +then on the subject of a southern continent, which, after all, we see is +not worth being disputed about, and appears to be set up, as it were, in +absolute derision of human curiosity and enterprise. Wise men, it is +likely, notwithstanding such promissory eulogiums as Mr Dalrymple held +out, will neither venture their lives to ascertain its existence, nor +lose their time and tempers in arguing about it. Cook's observation, it +is perhaps necessary to remark, as to the ice extending further towards +the north opposite the Atlantic and Indian oceans than any where else, +may be accounted for without the supposition he makes in explanation of +it. Thus certain warm currents of water may be conceived to proceed from +the north, towards those other parts where the ice has not been seen to +extend so far, and to prevent the formation of it to the same distance; +or again, there may be islands and rocks, to which the ice adheres, in +the situations mentioned by Cook. Both causes, indeed, may operate, and +there may be others also quite equivalent to the effect. But it is full +time to leave this merely curious subject. Mr G.F. has somewhat wittily +remarked, that the opinion of the existence of a southern continent +maintained by some philosophers, though much invalidated by this voyage, +is nevertheless a proof of their great intelligence, considering the few +_data_ on which they could proceed. Some readers may incline, perhaps, +to give as much credit to the writer, for hazarding, on about equal +grounds, any opinion in opposition to it.--E.] + +In this last ocean, the mercury in the thermometer seldom fell so low as +the freezing point, till we were in 60 deg. and upwards; whereas in the +others, it fell as low in the latitude of 54 deg.. This was certainly owing +to there being a greater quantity of ice, and to its extending farther +to the north, in these two seas than in the south Pacific; and if ice be +first formed at, or near land, of which I have no doubt, it will follow +that the land also extends farther north. + +The formation or coagulation of ice-islands has not, to my knowledge, +been thoroughly investigated. Some have supposed them to be formed by +the freezing of the water at the mouths of large rivers, or great +cataracts, where they accumulate till they are broken off by their own +weight. My observations will not allow me to acquiesce in this opinion; +because we never found any of the ice which we took up incorporated with +earth, or any of its produce, as I think it must have been, had it been +coagulated in land-waters. It is a doubt with me, whether there be any +rivers in these countries. It is certain, that we saw not a river, or +stream of water, on all the coast of Georgia, nor on any of the southern +lands. Nor did we ever see a stream of water run from any of the +ice-islands. How are we then to suppose that there are large rivers? The +valleys are covered, many fathoms deep, with everlasting snow; and, at +the sea, they terminate in icy cliffs of vast height. It is here where +the ice-islands are formed; not from streams of water, but from +consolidated snow and sleet, which is almost continually falling or +drifting down from the mountains, especially in the winter, when the +frost must be intense. During that season, the ice-cliffs must so +accumulate as to fill up all the bays, be they ever so large. This is a +fact which cannot be doubted, as we have seen it so in summer. These +cliffs accumulate by continual falls of snow, and what drifts from the +mountains, till they are no longer able to support their own weight; +and then large pieces break off, which we call ice-islands. Such as have +a flat even surface, must be of the ice formed in the bays, and before +the flat vallies; the others, which have a tapering unequal surface, +must be formed on, or under, the side of a coast composed of pointed +rocks and precipices, or some such uneven surface. For we cannot suppose +that snow alone, as it falls, can form, on a plain surface, such as the +sea, such a variety of high peaks and hills, as we saw on many of the +ice-isles. It is certainly more reasonable to believe that they are +formed on a coast whose surface is something similar to theirs. I have +observed that all the ice-islands of any extent, and before they begin +to break to pieces, are terminated by perpendicular cliffs of clear ice +or frozen snow, always on one or more sides, but most generally all +round. Many, and those of the largest size, which had a hilly and spiral +surface, shewed a perpendicular cliff, or side, from the summit of the +highest peak down to its base. This to me was a convincing proof, that +these, as well as the flat isles, must have broken off from substances +like themselves, that is, from some large tract of ice. + +When I consider the vast quantity of ice we saw, and the vicinity of the +places to the Pole where it is formed, and where the degrees of +longitude are very small, I am led to believe that these ice-cliffs +extend a good way into the sea, in some parts, especially in such as are +sheltered from the violence of the winds. It may even be doubted if ever +the wind is violent in the very high latitudes. And that the sea will +freeze over, or the snow that falls upon it, which amounts to the same +thing, we have instances in the northern hemisphere. The Baltic, the +Gulph of St Laurence, the Straits of Belle-Isle, and many other equally +large seas, are frequently frozen over in winter.[12] Nor is this at all +extraordinary, for we have found the degree of cold at the surface of +the sea, even in summer, to be two degrees below the freezing point; +consequently nothing kept it from freezing but the salt it contains, and +the agitation of its surface. Whenever this last ceaseth in winter, when +the frost is set in, and there comes a fall of snow, it will freeze on +the surface as it falls, and in a few days, or perhaps in one night, +form such a sheet of ice as will not be easily broken up. Thus a +foundation will be laid for it to accumulate to any thickness by falls +of snow, without its being at all necessary for the sea-water to +freeze. It may be by this means these vast floats of low ice we find in +the spring of the year are formed, and which, after they break up, are +carried by the currents to the north. For, from all the observations I +have been able to make, the currents every where, in the high latitudes, +set to the north, or to the N.E. or N.W.; but we have very seldom found +them considerable. + +[Footnote 12: Forster the elder, in his observations, has related many +instances of this sort, and given some very ingenious remarks on the +subject of the formation of ice in high latitudes; but it is impossible +to do justice to them within the compass of a note, and perhaps most +readers are of opinion that the text is abundantly copious on this part +of the voyage.--E.] + +If this imperfect account of the formation of these extraordinary +floating islands of ice, which is written wholly from my own +observations, does not convey some useful hints to an abler pen, it +will, however, convey some idea of the lands where they are formed: +Lands doomed by Nature to perpetual frigidness; never to feel the warmth +of the sun's rays; whose horrible and savage aspect I have not words to +describe. Such are the lands we have discovered; what then may we expect +those to be which lie still farther to the south? For we may reasonably +suppose that we have seen the best, as lying most to the north. If any +one should have resolution and perseverance to clear up this point by +proceeding farther than I have done, I shall not envy him the honour of +the discovery; but I will be bold to say, that the world will not be +benefited by it. + +I had, at this time, some thoughts of revisiting the place where the +French discovery is said to lie. But then I considered that, if they had +really made this discovery, the end would be as fully answered as if I +had done it myself. We know it can only be an island; and if we may +judge from the degree of cold we found in that latitude, it cannot be a +fertile one. Besides, this would have kept me two months longer at sea, +and in a tempestuous latitude, which we were not in a condition to +struggle with. Our sails and rigging were so much worn, that something +was giving way every hour; and we had nothing left either to repair or +to replace them. Our provisions were in a state of decay, and +consequently afforded little nourishment, and we had been a long time +without refreshments. My people, indeed, were yet healthy, and would +have cheerfully gone wherever I had thought proper to lead them; but I +dreaded the scurvy laying hold of them at a time when we had nothing +left to remove it. I must say farther, that it would have been cruel in +me to have continued the fatigues and hardships they were continually +exposed to, longer than was absolutely necessary. Their behaviour, +throughout the whole voyage, merited every indulgence which it was in my +power to give them. Animated by the conduct of the officers, they shewed +themselves capable of surmounting every difficulty and danger which came +in their way, and never once looked either upon the one or the other, as +being at all heightened, by our separation from our consort the +Adventure.[13] + +[Footnote 13: "The sour krout, that excellent anti-scorbutic food, of +which sixty large casks were put on board our ship, was now entirely +consumed, and the want of it was severely felt from the captain down to +the sailor. It enabled us to eat our portion of salt meat, of which it +corrected the septic quality. The wish for a speedy release from this +nauseous diet now became universal, and our continuance in the high +latitudes was disagreeable to all on board."--G.F.] + +All these considerations induced me to lay aside looking for the French +discoveries, and to steer for the Cape of Good Hope; with a resolution, +however, of looking for the isles of Denia and Marseveen, which are laid +down in Dr Halley's variation chart in the latitude of 41 deg. 1/2 S., and +about 4 deg. of longitude to the east of the meridian of the Cape of Good +Hope. With this view I steered N.E., with a hard gale at N.W. and thick +weather; and on the 25th, at noon, we saw the last ice island, being at +this time in the latitude of 52 deg. 52' S., longitude 26 deg. 31' E. + +The wind abating and veering to the south, on the first of March, we +steered west, in order to get farther from Mr Bouvet's track, which was +but a few degrees to the east of us, being at this time in the latitude +of 46 deg. 44' S., longitude 33 deg. 20' E., in which situation we found the +variation to be 23 deg. 36' W. It is somewhat remarkable, that all the time +we had northerly winds, which were regular and constant for several +days, the weather was always thick and cloudy; but, as soon as they came +south of west, it cleared up, and was fine and pleasant. The barometer +began to rise several days before this change happened; but whether on +account of it, or our coming northward, cannot be determined.[14] + +[Footnote 14: It may be worth while preserving here the remark made by +Mr Wales. When off, and in the neighbourhood of Georgia, the cold was +much less severe when the wind blew from the south, than when it came +from the north. He assigns no reason for it, and perhaps the +observations were too limited to place and time to justify any general +inferences. It may, however, be suggested, with little risk of error, +that the northerly wind would be most loaded with moisture, hence the +cloudy sort of weather noticed during its continuance; and that, on very +well-ascertained principles, moisture is a considerable source of +cold.--E.] + +The wind remained not long at south before it veered round by the N.E. +to the N.W., blowing fresh and by squalls, attended, as before, with +rain and thick misty weather. We had some intervals of clear weather in +the afternoon of the 3d, when we found the variation to be 22 deg. 26' W.; +latitude at this time 45 deg. 8' S., longitude 30 deg. 50' E. The following +night was very stormy, the wind blew from S.W. and in excessively heavy +squalls. At short intervals between the squalls the wind would fall +almost to a calm, and then come on again with such fury, that neither +our sails nor rigging could withstand it, several of the sails being +split, and a middle stay-sail being wholly lost. The next morning the +gale abated, and we repaired the damage we had sustained in the best +manner we could. + +On the 8th, being in the latitude of 41 deg. 30' S., longitude 26 deg. 51' E., +the mercury in the thermometer rose to 61, and we found it necessary to +put on lighter clothes. As the wind continued invariably fixed between +N.W. and W., we took every advantage to get to the west, by tacking +whenever it shifted any thing in our favour; but as we had a great swell +against us, our tacks were rather disadvantageous. We daily saw +albatrosses, peterels, and other oceanic birds; but not the least sign +of land. + +On the 11th, in the latitude of 40 deg. 40' S., longitude 23 deg. 47' E., the +variation was 20 deg. 48' W. About noon the same day the wind shifted +suddenly from N.W. to S.W., caused the mercury in the thermometer to +fall as suddenly from 62 deg. to 52 deg.; such was the different state of the +air, between a northerly and southerly wind. The next day, having +several hours calm, we put a boat in the water, and shot some +albatrosses and peterels, which, at this time, were highly acceptable. +We were now nearly in the situation where the isles which we were in +search of, are said to lie; however, we saw nothing that could give us +the least hope of finding them. + +The calm continued till five o'clock of the next morning, when it was +succeeded by a breeze at W. by S., with which we stood to N.N.W., and at +noon observed in latitude 38 deg. 51' S. This was upwards of thirty miles +more to the north than our log gave us; and the watch shewed that we had +been set to the east also. If these differences did not arise from some +strong current, I know not how to account for them. Very strong currents +have been found on the African coast, between Madagascar and the Cape +of Good Hope, but I never heard of their extending so far from the land; +nor is it probable they do. I rather suppose that this current has no +connection with that on the coast; and that we happened to fall into +some stream which is neither lasting nor regular. But these are points +which require much time to investigate, and must therefore be left to +the industry of future navigators. + +We were now two degrees to the north of the parallel in which the isles +of Denia and Marseveen are said to lie. We had seen nothing to encourage +us to persevere in looking after them, and it must have taken up some +time longer to find them, or to prove their non-existence. Every one was +impatient to get into port, and for good reasons: As for a long time we +had had nothing but stale and salt provisions, for which every one on +board had lost all relish. These reasons induced me to yield to the +general wish, and to steer for the Cape of Good Hope, being at this time +in the latitude of 38 deg. 38' S., longitude 23 deg. 37' E. + +The next day the observed latitude at noon was only seventeen miles to +the north of that given by the log; so that we had either got out of the +strength of the current, or it had ceased. + +On the 15th the observed latitude at noon, together with the watch, +shewed that we had had a strong current setting to the S.W., the +contrary direction to what we had experienced on some of the preceding +days, as hath been mentioned.[15] + +[Footnote 15: It is highly probable, that both these currents were +branches of the equinoctial current, that flows from east to west--the +first, which was farthest off from land, being on the return towards the +east; and the second, which was found nearer to the land, having still +enough of its original impulse to direct it onwards by the coast to the +southern point of Africa, from which it would afterwards be deflected. +Similar circuits are well known to be performed by the equinoctial +current, in the Atlantic Ocean, on both sides of the equator.--E.] + +At day-light, on the 16th, we saw two sail in the N.W. quarter standing +to the westward, and one of them shewing Dutch colours. At ten o'clock +we tacked and stood to the west also, being at this time in the latitude +of 39 deg. 9' S., longitude 22 deg. 38' E. + +I now, in pursuance of my instructions, demanded of the officers and +petty officers, the log-books and journals they had kept; which were +delivered to me accordingly, and sealed up for the inspection of the +Admiralty. I also enjoined them, and the whole crew, not to divulge +where we had been, till they had their lordships' permission so to do. +In the afternoon, the wind veered to the west, and increased to a hard +gale, which was of short duration; for, the next day, it fell, and at +noon veered to S.E. At this time we were in the latitude of 34 deg. 49' S., +longitude 22 deg. E.; and, on sounding, found fifty-six fathoms water. In +the evening we saw the land in the direction of E.N.E. about six leagues +distant; and, during the fore-part of the night, there was a great fire +or light upon it. + +At day-break on the 18th, we saw the land again, bearing N.N.W., six or +seven leagues distant, and the depth of water forty-eight fathoms. At +nine o'clock, having little or no wind, we hoisted out a boat, and sent +on board one of the two ships before-mentioned, which were about two +leagues from us; but we were too impatient after news to regard the +distance. Soon after, a breeze sprung up at west, with which we stood to +the south; and, presently, three sail more appeared in sight to +windward, one of which shewed English colours. + +At one, p.m., the boat returned from on board the Bownkerke Polder, +Captain Cornelius Bosch, a Dutch Indiaman from Bengal. Captain Bosch, +very obligingly, offered us sugar, arrack, and whatever he had to spare. +Our people were told by some English seamen on board this ship, that the +Adventure had arrived at the Cape of Good Hope twelve months ago, and +that the crew of one of her boats had been murdered and eaten by the +people of New Zealand; so that the story which we heard in Queen +Charlotte's Sound was now no longer a mystery. + +We had light airs next, to a calm till ten o'clock the next morning, +when a breeze sprung up at west, and the English ship, which was to +windward, bore down to us. She proved to be the True Briton, Captain +Broadly, from China. As he did not intend to touch at the Cape, I put a +letter on board him for the secretary of the Admiralty. + +The account which we had heard of the Adventure was now confirmed to us +by this ship. We also got, from on board her, a parcel of old +newspapers, which were new to us, and gave us some amusement; but these +were the least favours we received from Captain Broadly. With a +generosity peculiar to the commanders of the India Company's ships, he +sent us fresh provisions, tea, and other articles which were very +acceptable, and deserve from me this public acknowledgment. In the +afternoon we parted company. The True Briton stood out to sea, and we in +for the land, having a very fresh gale at west, which split our fore +top-sail in such a manner, that we were obliged to bring another to the +yard. At six o'clock we tacked within four or five miles of the shore; +and, as we judged, about five or six leagues to the east of Cape +Aguilas. We stood off till midnight, when, the wind having veered round +to the south, we tacked, and stood along-shore to the west. The wind +kept veering more and more in our favour, and at last fixed at E.S.E.; +and blew for some hours a perfect hurricane. + +As soon as the storm began to subside, we made sail, and hauled in for +the land. Next day at noon, the Table Mountain over the Cape Town bore +N.E. by E., distant nine or ten leagues. By making use of this bearing +and distance to reduce the longitude shewn by the watch to the Cape +Town, the error was found to be no more than 18' in longitude, which it +was too far to the east. Indeed the difference found between it and the +lunar observations, since we left New Zealand, had seldom exceeded half +a degree, and always the same way. + +The next morning, being with us Wednesday the 22d, but with the people +here Tuesday the 21st, we anchored in Table Bay, where we found several +Dutch ships; some French; and the Ceres, Captain Newte, an English East +India Company's ship, from China, bound directly to England, by whom I +sent a copy of the preceding part of this journal, some charts, and +other drawings to the Admiralty. + +Before we had well got to an anchor, I dispatched an officer to acquaint +the governor with our arrival, and to request the necessary stores and +refreshments; which were readily granted. As soon as the officer came +back, we saluted the garrison with thirteen guns, which compliment was +immediately returned with an equal number. + +I now learnt that the Adventure had called here, on her return; and I +found a letter from Captain Furneaux, acquainting me with the loss of +his boat, and of ten of his best men, in Queen Charlotte's Sound. The +captain, afterwards, on my arrival in England, put into my hands a +complete narrative of his proceedings, from the time of our second and +final separation, which I now lay before the public in the following +section. + + +SECTION VIII. + +_Captain Furneaux's Narrative of his Proceedings, in the Adventure, +from, the Time he was separated from the Resolution, to his Arrival in +England; including Lieutenant Burney's Report concerning the Boat's Crew +who were murdered by the Inhabitants of Queen Charlottes Sound_. + + +After a passage of fourteen days from Amsterdam, we made the coast of +New Zealand near the Table Cape, and stood along-shore till we came as +far as Cape Turnagain. The wind then began to blow strong at west, with +heavy squalls and rain, which split many of our sails, and blew us off +the coast for three days; in which time we parted company with the +Resolution, and never saw her afterwards. + +On the 4th of November, we again got in shore, near Cape Palliser, and +were visited by a number of the natives in their canoes; bringing a +great quantity of cray-fish, which we bought of them for nails and +Otaheite cloth. The next day it blew hard from W.N.W., which again drove +us off the coast, and obliged us to bring-to for two days; during which +time it blew one continual gale of wind, with heavy falls of sleet. By +this time, our decks were very leaky; our beds and bedding wet; and +several of our people complaining of colds; so that we began to despair +of ever getting into Charlotte's Sound, or joining the Resolution. + +On the 6th, being to the north of the cape, the wind at S.W., and +blowing strong, we bore away for some bay to complete our water and +wood, being in great want of both, having been at the allowance of one +quart of water for some days past; and even that pittance could not be +come at above six or seven days longer. We anchored in Tolaga Bay on the +9th, in latitude 38 deg. 21' S., longitude 178 deg. 31' east. It affords good +riding with the wind westerly, and regular soundings from eleven to five +fathoms, stiff muddy ground across the bay for about two miles. It is +open from N.N.E. to E.S.E. It is to be observed, easterly winds seldom +blow hard on this shore; but when they do, they throw in a great sea, +so that if it were not for a great undertow, together with a large river +that empties itself in the bottom of the bay, a ship would not be able +to ride here. Wood and water are easily to be had, except when it blows +hard easterly. The natives here are the same as those at Charlotte's +Sound, but more numerous, and seemed settled, having regular plantations +of sweet potatoes, and other roots, which are very good; and they have +plenty of cray and other fish, which we bought of them for nails, beads, +and other trifles, at an easy rate. In one of their canoes we observed +the head of a woman lying in state, adorned with feathers and other +ornaments. It had the appearance of being alive; but, on examination, we +found it dry, being preserved with every feature perfect, and kept as +the relic of some deceased relation. + +Having got about ten tons of water, and some wood, we sailed for +Charlotte's Sound on the 12th. We were no sooner out than the wind began +to blow hard, dead on the shore, so that we could not clear the land on +either tack. This obliged us to bear away again for the bay, where we +anchored the next morning, and rode out a very heavy gale of wind at E. +by S., which threw in a very great sea. We now began to fear we should +never join the Resolution; having reason to believe she was in Charlotte +Sound, and by this time ready for sea. We soon found it was with great +difficulty we could get any water, owing to the swell setting in so +strong; at last, however, we were able to go on shore, and got both wood +and water. + +Whilst we lay here we were employed about the rigging, which was much +damaged by the constant gales of wind we had met with since we made the +coast. We got the booms down on the decks, and having made the ship as +snug as possible, sailed again on the 16th. After this we met with +several gales of wind off the mouth of the Strait; and continued beating +backwards and forwards till the 30th, when we were so fortunate as to +get a favourable wind, which we took every advantage of, and at last got +safe into our desired port. We saw nothing of the Resolution, and began +to doubt her safety; but on going ashore, we discerned the place where +she had erected her tents; and, on an old stump of a tree in the garden, +observed these words cut out, "Look underneath." There we dug, and soon +found a bottle corked and waxed down, with a letter in it from Captain +Cook, signifying their arrival on the 3d instant, and departure on the +24th; and that they intended spending a few days in the entrance of the +Straits to look for us. + +We immediately set about getting the ship ready for sea as fast as +possible; erected our tents; sent the cooper on shore to repair the +casks; and began to unstow the hold, to get at the bread that was in +butts; but on opening them found a great quantity of it entirely +spoiled, and most part so damaged, that we were obliged to fix our +copper oven on shore to bake it over again, which undoubtedly delayed us +a considerable time. Whilst we lay here, the inhabitants came on board +as before, supplying us with fish, and other things of their own +manufacture, which we bought of them for nails, &c. and appeared very +friendly, though twice in the middle of the night they came to the tent, +with an intention to steal; but were discovered before they could get +any thing into their possession. + +On the 17th of December, having refitted the ship, completed our water +and wood, and got every thing ready for sea, we sent our large cutter, +with Mr Rowe, a midshipman, and the boat's crew, to gather wild greens +for the ship's company; with orders to return that evening, as I +intended to sail the next morning. But on the boat's not returning the +same evening, nor the next morning, being under great uneasiness about +her, I hoisted out the launch, and sent her with the second lieutenant, +Mr Burney, manned with the boat's crew and ten marines, in search of +her. My orders to Mr Burney were first, to look well into East Bay, and +then to proceed to Grass Cove, the place to which Mr Rowe had been sent; +and if he heard nothing of the boat there, to go farther up the sound, +and come back along the west shore. As Mr Rowe had left the ship an hour +before the time proposed, and in a great hurry, I was strongly persuaded +that his curiosity had carried him into East Bay, none in our ship +having ever been there; or else, that some accident had happened to the +boat, either by going adrift through the boat-keeper's negligence, or by +being stove among the rocks. This was almost every body's opinion; and +on this supposition, the carpenter's mate was sent in the launch, with +some sheets of tin. I had not the least suspicion that our people had +received any injury from the natives, our boats having frequently been +higher up, and worse provided. How much I was mistaken, too soon +appeared; for Mr Burney having returned about eleven o'clock the same +night, made his report of a horrible scene indeed, which cannot be +better described than in his own words, which now follow. + +"On the 18th, we left the ship; and having a light breeze in our favour, +we soon got round Long Island, and within Long Point. I examined every +cove, on the larboard hand, as we went along, looking well all around +with a spy-glass, which I took for that purpose. At half past one, we +stopped at a beach on the left-hand side going up East Bay, to boil some +victuals, as we brought nothing but raw meat with us. Whilst we were +cooking, I saw an Indian on the opposite shore, running along a beach to +the head of the bay. Our meat being drest, we got into the boat and put +off; and, in a short time, arrived at the head of this reach, where we +saw an Indian settlement." + +"As we drew near, some of the Indians came down on the rocks, and waved +for us to be gone, but seeing we disregarded them, they altered their +notes. Here we found six large canoes hauled up on the beach, most of +them double ones, and a great many people; though not so many as one +might expect from the number of houses and size of the canoes. Leaving +the boat's crew to guard the boat, I stepped ashore with the marines +(the corporal and five men), and searched a good many of their houses, +but found nothing to give me any suspicion. Three or four well-beaten +paths led farther into the woods, where were many more houses; but the +people continuing friendly, I thought it unnecessary to continue our +search. Coming down to the beach, one of the Indians had brought a +bundle of _Hepatoos_ (long spears), but seeing I looked very earnestly +at him, he put them on the ground, and walked about with seeming +unconcern. Some of the people appearing to be frightened, I gave a +looking-glass to one, and a large nail to another. From this place the +bay ran, as nearly as I could guess, N.N.W. a good mile, where it ended +in a long sandy beach. I looked all around with the glass, but saw no +boat, canoe, or sign of inhabitant. I therefore contented myself with +firing some guns, which I had done in every cove as I went along." + +"I now kept close to the east shore, and came to another settlement, +where the Indians invited us ashore. I enquired of them about the boat, +but they pretended ignorance. They appeared very friendly here, and sold +us some fish. Within an hour after we left this place, in a small beach +adjoining to Grass Cove, we saw a very large double canoe just hauled +up, with two men and a dog. The men, on seeing us, left their canoe, and +ran up into the woods. This gave me reason to suspect I should here get +tidings of the cutter. We went ashore, and searched the canoe, where we +found one of the rullock-ports of the cutter, and some shoes, one of +which was known to belong to Mr Woodhouse, one of our midshipmen. One of +the people, at the same time, brought me a piece of meat, which he took +to be some of the salt meat belonging to the cutter's crew. On examining +this, and smelling to it, I found it was fresh. Mr Fannin (the master) +who was with me, supposed it was dog's flesh, and I was of the same +opinion; for I still doubted their being cannibals. But we were soon +convinced by most horrid and undeniable proof." + +"A great many baskets (about twenty) lying on the beach, tied up, we cut +them open. Some were full of roasted flesh, and some of fern-root, which +serves them for bread. On, farther search, we found more shoes, and a +hand, which we immediately knew to have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of +our fore-castle men, it being marked T.H. with an Otaheite +tattow-instrument. I went with some of the people a little way up the +woods, but saw nothing else. Coming down again, there was a round spot +covered with fresh earth, about four feet diameter, where something had +been buried. Having no spade, we began to dig with a cutlass; and in the +mean time I launched the canoe with intent to destroy her; but seeing a +great smoke ascending over the nearest hill, I got all the people into +the boat, and made what haste I could to be with them before sun-set." + +"On opening the next bay, which was Grass Cove, we saw four canoes, one +single and three double ones, and a great many people on the beach, who, +on our approach; retreated to a small hill, within a ship's length of +the water side, where they stood talking to us. A large fire was on the +top of the high land, beyond the woods, from whence, all the way down +the hill, the place was thronged like a fair. As we came in, I ordered a +musquetoon to be fired at one of the canoes, suspecting they might be +full of men lying down in the bottom; for they were all afloat, but +nobody was seen in them. The savages on the little hill still kept +hallooing, and making signs for us to land. However, as soon as we got +close in, we all fired. The first volley did not seem to affect them +much; but on the second, they began to scramble away as fast as they +could, some of them howling. We continued firing as long as we could see +the glimpse of any of them through the bushes. Amongst the Indians were +two very stout men, who never offered to move till they found themselves +forsaken by their companions; and then they marched away with great +composure and deliberation; their pride not suffering them to run. One +of them, however, got a fall, and either lay there, or crawled off on +all-fours. The other got clear, without any apparent hurt. I then landed +with the marines, and Mr Fannin staid to guard the boat." + +"On the beach were two bundles of celery, which had been gathered for +loading the cutter. A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to +which the natives had tied their canoes; a proof that the attack had +been made here. I then searched all along at the back of the beach, to +see if the cutter was there. We found no boat, but instead of her, such +a shocking scene of carnage and barbarity as can never be mentioned or +thought of but with horror; for the heads, hearts, and lungs of several +of our people were seen lying on the beach, and, at a little distance, +the dogs gnawing their entrails." + +"Whilst we remained almost stupified on the spot, Mr Fannin called to us +that he heard the savages gathering together in the woods; on which I +returned to the boat, and hauling along-side the canoes, we demolished +three of them. Whilst this was transacting, the fire on the top of the +hill disappeared; and we could hear the Indians in the woods at high +words; I suppose quarrelling whether or no they should attack us, and +try to save their canoes. It now grew dark; I therefore just stepped +out, and looked once more behind the beach to see if the cutter had been +hauled up in the bushes; but seeing nothing of her, returned, and put +off. Our whole force would have been barely sufficient to have gone up +the hill; and to have ventured with half (for half must have been left +to guard the boat) would have been fool-hardiness." + +"As we opened the upper part of the sound, we saw a very large fire +about three or four miles higher up, which formed a complete oval, +reaching from the top of the hill down almost to the water-side, the +middle space being inclosed all round by the fire, like a hedge. I +consulted with Mr Fannin, and we were both of opinion that we could +expect to reap no other advantage than the poor satisfaction of killing +some more of the savages. At leaving Grass Cove, we had fired a general +volley towards where we heard the Indians talking; but, by going in and +out of the boat, the arms had got wet, and four pieces missed fire. What +was still worse, it began to rain; our ammunition was more than, half +expended, and we left six large canoes behind us in one place. With so +many disadvantages, I did not think it worth while to proceed, where +nothing could be hoped for but revenge." + +"Coming between two round islands, situated to the southward of East +Bay, we imagined we heard somebody calling; we lay on our oars, and +listened, but heard no more of it; we hallooed several times, but to +little purpose; the poor souls were far enough out of hearing, and, +indeed, I think it some comfort to reflect, that in all probability +every man of them must have been killed on the spot." + +Thus far Mr Burney's report; and to complete the account of this +tragical transaction, it may not be unnecessary to mention, that the +people in the cutter were Mr Rowe, Mr Woodhouse, Francis Murphy, +quarter-master; William Facey, Thomas Hill, Michael Bell, and Edward +Jones, fore-castle men; John Cavanaugh, and Thomas Milton, belonging to +the after-guard; and James Sevilley, the captain's man, being ten in +all. Most of these were of our very best seamen, the stoutest and most +healthy people in the ship. Mr Burney's party brought on board two +hands, one belonging to Mr Rowe, known by a hurt he had received on it; +the other to Thomas Hill, as before-mentioned; and the head of the +captain's servant. These, with more of the remains, were tied in a +hammock, and thrown over-board, with ballast and shot sufficient to sink +it. None of their arms nor cloaths were found, except part of a pair of +trowsers, a frock, and six shoes, no two of them being fellows. + +I am not inclined to think this was any premeditated plan of these +savages; for, the morning Mr Rowe left the ship, he met two canoes, +which came down and staid all the fore-noon in Ship Cove. It might +probably happen from some quarrel which was decided on the spot, or the +fairness of the opportunity might tempt them, our people being so +incautious, and thinking themselves too secure. Another thing which +encouraged the New Zealanders, was, they were sensible that a gun was +not infallible, that they sometimes missed, and that, when discharged, +they must be loaded before they could be used again, which time they +knew how to take advantage of. After their success, I imagine there was +a general meeting on the east side of the sound. The Indians of Shag +Cove were there; this we knew by a cock which was in one of the canoes, +and by a long single canoe, which some of our people had seen four days +before in Shag Cove, where they had been with Mr Rowe in the cutter. + +We were detained in the Sound by contrary winds four days after this +melancholy affair happened, during which time we saw none of the +inhabitants. What is very remarkable, I had been several times up in the +same cove with Captain Cook, and never saw the least sign of an +inhabitant, except some deserted towns, which appeared as if they had +not been occupied for several years; and yet, when Mr Burney entered the +cove, he was of opinion there could not be less than fifteen hundred or +two thousand people. I doubt not, had they been apprized of his coming, +they would have attacked him. From these considerations, I thought it +imprudent to send a boat up again; as we were convinced there was not +the least probability of any of our people being alive. + +On the 23d, we weighed and made sail out of the Sound, and stood to the +eastward to get clear of the straits; which we accomplished the same +evening, but were baffled for two or three days with light winds, before +we could clear the coast. We then stood to the S.S.E. till we got into +the latitude of 56 deg. south, without any thing remarkable happening, +having a great swell from the southward. At this time the wind began to +blow strong from the S.W., and the weather to be very cold; and as the +ship was low and deep laden, the sea made a continual breach over her, +which kept us always wet; and by her straining, very few of the people +were dry in bed or on deck, having no shelter to keep the sea from them. + +The birds were the only companions we had in this vast ocean, except, +now and then, we saw a whale or porpoise; and sometimes a seal or two, +and a few penguins. In the latitude of 58 deg. S., longitude 213 deg.[16] east, +we fell in with some ice, and, every day, saw more or less, we then +standing to the east. We found a very strong current setting to the +eastward; for by the time we were abreast of Cape Horn, being in the +latitude of 61 deg. S., the ship was a-head of our account eight degrees. We +were very little more than a month from Cape Palliser in New Zealand to +Cape Horn, which is an hundred and twenty-one degrees of longitude, and +had continual westerly winds from S.W. to N.W., with a great sea +following. + +[Footnote 16: About 147 west longitude, as I reckon.] + +On opening some casks of pease and flour, that had been stowed on the +coals, we found them very much damaged, and not eatable; so thought it +most prudent to make for the Cape of Good Hope, but first to stand into +the latitude and longitude of Cape Circumcision. After being to the +eastward of Cape Horn, we found the winds did not blow so strong from +the westward as usual, but came more from the north, which brought on +thick foggy weather; so that for several days together we could not be +able to get an observation, or see the least sign of the sun. This +weather lasted above a month, being then among a great many islands of +ice, which kept us constantly on the look-out, for fear of running foul +of them, and, being a single ship, made us more attentive. By this time +our people began to complain of colds and pains in their limbs, which +obliged me to haul to the northward to the latitude of 54 deg. S.; but we +still continued to have the same sort of weather, though we had oftener +an opportunity of obtaining observations for the latitude. + +After getting into the latitude above-mentioned, I steered to the east, +in order, if possible, to find the land laid down by Bouvet. As we +advanced to the east, the islands of ice became more numerous and +dangerous; they being much smaller than they used to be; and the nights +began to be dark. + +On the 3d of March, being then in the latitude of 54 deg. 4' S., longitude +13 deg. E., which is the latitude of Bouvet's discovery, and half a degree +to the eastward of it, and not seeing the least sign of land, either now +or since we have been in this parallel, I gave over looking for it, and +hauled away to the northward. As our last track to the southward was +within a few degrees of Bouvet's discovery in the longitude assigned to +it, and about three or four degrees to the southward, should there be +any land thereabout, it must be a very inconsiderable island. But I +believe it was nothing but ice: As we, in our first setting out, thought +we had seen land several times, but it proved to be high islands of ice +at the back of the large fields; and as it was thick foggy weather when +Mr Bouvet fell in with it, he might very easily mistake them for land. + +On the seventh, being in the latitude of 48 deg. 30' S., longitude 14 deg. 26' +E., saw two large islands of ice. + +On the 17th, made the land of the Cape of Good Hope, and on the 19th +anchored in Table Bay, where we found Commodore Sir Edward Hughes, with +his majesty's ships Salisbury and Sea-horse. I saluted the commodore +with, thirteen guns; and, soon after, the garrison with the same number; +the former returned the salute, as usual, with two guns less, and the +latter with an equal number. + +On the 24th, Sir Edward Hughes sailed with the Salisbury and Sea-horse, +for the East Indies; but I remained refitting the ship and refreshing +the people till the 16th of April, when I sailed for England, and on the +14th of July anchored at Spithead. + + +SECTION IX. + +_Transactions at the Cape of Good Hope; with an Account of some +Discoveries made by the French; and the Arrival of the Ship at St +Helena._ + + +I now resume my own Journal, which Captain Furneaux's interesting +narrative, in the preceding section, had obliged me to suspend. + +The day after my arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, I went on shore, and +waited on the Governor, Baron Plettenberg, and other principal officers, +who received, and, treated us, with the greatest politeness, +contributing all in their power to make it agreeable. And, as there are +few people more obliging to strangers than the Dutch in general, at this +place, and refreshments of all kinds are no where to be got in such +abundance, we enjoyed some real repose, after the fatigues of a long +voyage. + +The good treatment which strangers meet with at the Cape of Good Hope, +and the necessity of breathing a little fresh air, has introduced a +custom, not common any where else (at least I have no where seen it so +strictly observed), which is, for all the officers, who can be spared +out of the ship, to reside on shore. We followed this custom. Myself, +the two Mr Forsters, and Mr Sparrman, took up our abode with Mr Brandt, +a gentleman well known to the English, by his obliging readiness to +serve them. My first care, after my arrival, was to procure fresh-baked +bread, fresh meat, greens, and wine, for those who remained on board; +and being provided, every day during our stay, with these articles, they +were soon restored to their usual strength. We had only three men on +board whom it was thought necessary to send on shore for the recovery of +their health; and for these I procured quarters, at the rate of thirty +stivers, or half-a-crown, per day, for which they were provided with +victuals, drink, and lodging. + +We now went to work to supply all our defects. For this purpose, by +permission, we erected a tent on shore, to which we sent our casks and +sails to be repaired. We also struck the yards and topmasts, in order to +overhaul the rigging, which we found in so bad a condition, that almost +every thing, except the standing rigging, was obliged to be replaced +with new, and that was purchased at a most exorbitant price. In the +article of naval stores, the Dutch here, as well as at Batavia, take a +shameful advantage of the distress of foreigners. + +That our rigging, sails, &c. should be worn out, will not be wondered +at, when it is known, that during this circumnavigation of the globe, +that is, from our leaving this place to our return to it again, we had +sailed no less than twenty thousand leagues; an extent of voyage nearly +equal to three times the equatorial circumference of the earth, and +which, I apprehend, was never sailed by any ship in the same space of +time before. And yet, in all this great run, which had been made in all +latitudes between 9 deg. and 71, we sprung neither low-masts, top-mast, +lower, nor top-sail yard, nor so much as broke a lower or top-mast +shroud; which, with the great care and abilities of my officers, must be +owing to the good properties of our ship. + +One of the French ships which were at anchor in the bay, was the Ajax +Indiaman, bound to Pondicherry, commanded by Captain Crozet. He had been +second in command with Captain Marion, who sailed from this place with +two ships, in March 1772, as hath been already mentioned. Instead of +going from hence to America, as was said, he stood away for New Zealand; +where, in the Bay of Isles, he and some of his people were killed by the +inhabitants. Captain Crozet, who succeeded to the command, returned by +the way of the Phillipine Isles, with the two ships, to the island of +Mauritius. He seemed to be a man possessed of the true spirit of +discovery, and to have abilities. In a very obliging manner he +communicated to me a chart, wherein were delineated not only his own +discoveries, but also that of Captain Kerguelen, which I found laid down +in the very situation where we searched for it; so that I can by no +means conceive how both we and the Adventure missed it. + +Besides this land, which Captain Crozet told us was a long but very +narrow island, extending east and west, Captain Marion, in about the +latitude of 48 deg. south, and from 16 deg. to 30 deg. of longitude east of the Cape +of Good Hope, discovered six islands, which were high and barren. These, +together with some islands lying between the Line and the southern +tropic in the Pacific Ocean, were the principal discoveries made in this +voyage, the account of which, we were told, was ready for publication. + +By Captain Crozet's chart it appeared, that a voyage had been made by +the French across the South Pacific Ocean in 1769, under the command of +one Captain Surville; who, on condition of his attempting discoveries, +had obtained leave to make a trading voyage to the coast of Peru. He +fitted out, and took in a cargo, in some part of the East Indies; +proceeded by way of the Phillipine Isles; passed near New Britain; and +discovered some land in the latitude of 10 deg. S., longitude 158 deg. east, to +which he gave his own name. From hence he steered to the south; passed, +but a few degrees, to the west of New Caledonia; fell in with New +Zealand at its northern extremity, and put into Doubtful Bay; where, it +seems, he was, when I passed it, on my former voyage in the Endeavour. +From New Zealand Captain Surville steered to the east, between the +latitude of 35 deg. and 41 deg. south, until he arrived on the coast of America; +where, in the port of Callao, in attempting to land, he was drowned. + +These voyages of the French, though undertaken by private adventurers, +have contributed something towards exploring the Southern Ocean. That of +Captain Surville clears up a mistake which I was led into, in imagining +the shoals off the west end of New Caledonia, to extend to the west as +far as New Holland; it proves that there is an open sea in that space, +and that we saw the N.W. extremity of that country. + +From the same gentleman, we learnt, that the ship which had been at +Otaheite before our first arrival there this voyage, was from New Spain; +and that, in her return, she had discovered some islands in the latitude +of 32 deg. S., and under the meridian of 130 deg. W. Some other islands, said to +be discovered by the Spaniards, appeared on this chart; but Captain +Crozet seemed to think they were inserted from no good authorities. + +We were likewise informed of a later voyage undertaken by the French, +under the command of Captain Kerguelen, which had ended much to the +disgrace of that commander. + +While we lay in Table Bay, several foreign ships put in and out, bound +to and from India, viz. English, French, Danes, Swedes, and three +Spanish frigates, two of them going to, and one coming from Manilla. It +is but very lately that the Spanish ships have touched here; and these +were the first that were allowed the same privileges as other European +friendly nations. + +On examining our rudder, the pintles were found to be loose, and we were +obliged to unhang it, and take it on shore to repair. We were also +delayed for want of caulkers to caulk the ship, which was absolutely +necessary to be done before we put to sea. At length I obtained two +workmen from one of the Dutch ships; and the Dutton English East +Indiaman coming in from Bengal, Captain Rice obliged me with two more; +so that by the 26th of April this work was finished: And having got on +board all necessary stores, and a fresh supply of provisions and water, +we took leave of the governor and other principal officers, and the next +morning repaired on board. Soon after the wind coming fair, we weighed +and put to sea; as did also the Spanish frigate Juno, from Manilla, a +Danish Indiaman, and the Dutton. + +As soon as we were under sail, we saluted the garrison with thirteen +guns; which compliment was immediately returned with the same number. +The Spanish frigate and Danish Indiaman both saluted us as we passed +them, and I returned each salute with an equal number of guns. When we +were clear of the bay the Danish ship steered for the East Indies, the +Spanish frigate for Europe, and we and the Dutton for St Helena. + +Depending on the goodness of Mr Kendall's watch, I resolved to try to +make the island by a direct course. For the first six days, that is, +till we got into the latitude of 27 deg. S., longitude 11 deg. 1/2 W. of the +cape, the winds were southerly and S.E. After this we had variable light +airs for two days; they were succeeded by a wind at S.E. which continued +to the island, except a part of one day, when it was at N.E. In general +the wind blew faint all the passage, which made it longer than common. + +At day-break in the morning of the 15th of May, we saw the island of St +Helena at the distance of fourteen leagues; and at midnight anchored in +the road before the town, on the N.W. side of the island. At sun-rise +the next morning, the castle, and also the Dutton, saluted us, each with +thirteen guns; on my landing, soon after, I was saluted by the castle +with the same number, and each of the salutes was returned by the ship. + +Governor Skettowe and the principal gentlemen of the island, received +and treated me, during my stay, with the greatest politeness; by shewing +me every kind of civility in their power. + +Whoever views St Helena in its present state, and can but conceive what +it must have been originally, will not hastily charge the inhabitants +with want of industry. Though, perhaps, they might apply it to more +advantage, were more land appropriated to planting of corn, vegetables, +roots, &c. instead of being laid out in pasture, which is the present +mode. But this is not likely to happen, so long as the greatest part of +it remains in the hands of the company and their servants. Without +industrious planters, this island can never flourish, and be in a +condition to supply the shipping with the necessary refreshments. + +Within these three years a new church has been built; some other new +buildings were in hand; a commodious landing-place for boats has been +made; and several other improvements, which add both strength and beauty +to the place. + +During our stay here, we finished some necessary repairs of the ship, +which we had not time to do at the Cape. We also filled all our empty +water-casks; and the crew were served with fresh beef, purchased at +five-pence per pound. Their beef is exceedingly good, and is the only +refreshment to be had worth mentioning. + +By a series of observations made at the Cape town, and at James Fort in +St Helena, at the former by Messrs Mason and Dixon, and at the latter by +Mr Maskelyne, the astronomer royal, the difference of longitude between +these two places is 24 deg. 12' 15", only two miles more than Mr Kendall's +watch made. The lunar observations made by Mr Wales, before we arrived +at the island, and after we left it, and reduced to it by the watch, +gave 5 deg. 51' for the longitude of James Fort; which is only five miles +more west than it is placed by Mr Maskelyne. In like manner the +longitude of the Cape Town was found within 5' of the truth. I mention +this to shew how near the longitude of places may be found by the lunar +method, even at sea, with the assistance of a good watch.[17] + +[Footnote 17: Mr G.F. has communicated several very interesting +particulars respecting St Helena, but it is not judged proper to insert +them in this place, as having no connection with the purposes of the +voyage. A similar remark is applicable to some of the subjects mentioned +in the following section. Another opportunity may, perhaps, present of +giving full information on these topics.--E.] + + +SECTION X. + +_Passage from St Helena to the Western Islands, with a Description of +the Island of Ascension and Fernando Noronha._ + + +On the 21st in the evening, I took leave of the governor, and repaired +on board. Upon my leaving the shore, I was saluted with thirteen guns; +and upon my getting under sail, with the Dutton in company, I was +saluted with thirteen more; both of which I returned. + +After leaving St Helena, the Dutton was ordered to steer N.W. by W. or +N.W. by compass, in order to avoid falling in with Ascension; at which +island, it was said, an illicit trade was carried on between the +officers of the India Company's ships, and some vessels from North +America, who, of late years, had frequented the island on pretence of +fishing whales or catching turtle, when their real design was to wait +the coming of the India ships. In order to prevent their homeward-bound +ships from falling in with these smugglers, and to put a stop to this +illicit trade, the Dutton was ordered to steer the course +above-mentioned, till to the northward of Ascension. I kept company with +this ship till the 24th, when, after putting a packet on board her for +the Admiralty, we parted: She continuing her course to the N.W., and I +steering for Ascension. + +In the morning of the 28th I made the island; and the same evening +anchored in Cross Bay on the N.W. side, in ten fathoms water, the bottom +a fine sand, and half a mile from the shore. The Cross Hill, so called +on account of a cross, or flag-staff erected upon it, bore by compass S. +38 deg. E.; and the two extreme points of the bay extended from N.E. to S.W. +We remained here till the evening of the 31st, and notwithstanding we +had several parties out every night, we got but twenty-four turtle, it +being rather too late in the season; however, as they weighed between +four or five hundred pounds each, we thought ourselves not ill off. We +might have had a plentiful supply of fish in general, especially of that +sort called Old Wives, of which I have no where seen such abundance. +There were also cavalies, conger eels, and various other sorts; but the +catching of any of these was not attended to, the object being turtle. +There are abundance of goats, and aquatic birds, such as men-of-war and +tropic birds, boobies, &c. + +The island of Ascension is about ten miles in length, in the direction +of N.W. and S.E., and about five or six in breadth. It shews a surface +composed of barren hills and vallies, on the most of which not a shrub +or plant is to be seen for several miles, and where we found nothing but +stones and sand, or rather flags and ashes; an indubitable sign that the +isle, at some remote time, has been destroyed by a volcano, which has +thrown up vast heaps of stones, and even hills. Between these heaps of +stones we found a smooth even surface, composed of ashes and sand, and +very good travelling upon it; but one may as easily walk over broken +glass bottles as over the stones. If the foot deceives you, you are sure +to be cut or lamed, which happened to some of our people. A high +mountain at the S.E. end of the isle seems to be left in its original +state, and to have escaped the general destruction. Its soil is a kind +of white marl, which yet retains its vegetative qualities, and produceth +a kind of purslain, spurge, and one or two grasses. On these the goats +subsist, and it is at this part of the isle where they are to be found, +as also land-crabs, which are said to be very good. + +I was told, that about this part of the isle is some very good land on +which might be raised many necessary articles; and some have been at the +trouble of sowing turnips and other useful vegetables. I was also told +there is a fine spring in a valley which disjoins two hills on the top +of the mountain above-mentioned; besides great quantities of fresh water +in holes in the rocks, which the person who gave me this information, +believed was collected from rains. But these supplies of water can only +be of use to the traveller; or to those who may be so unfortunate as to +be shipwrecked on the island; which seems to have been the fate of some +not long ago, as appeared by the remains of a wreck we found on the N.E. +side. By what we could judge, she seemed to have been a vessel of about +one hundred and fifty tons burthen. + +While we lay in the road, a sloop of about seventy tons burthen came to +an anchor by us. She belonged to New York, which place she left in +February, and having been to the coast of Guinea with a cargo of goods, +was come here to take in turtle to carry to Barbadoes. This was the +story which the master, whose name was Greves, was pleased to tell, and +which may, in part, be true. But I believe the chief view of his coming +here, was the expectation of meeting with some of the India ships. He +had been in the island near a week, and had got on board twenty turtle. +A sloop, belonging to Bermuda, had sailed but a few days before with one +hundred and five on board, which was as many as she could take in; but +having turned several more on the different sandy beaches, they had +ripped open their bellies, taken out the eggs, and left their carcasses +to putrify; an act as inhuman as injurious to those who came after them. +Part of the account I have given of the interior parts of this island I +received from Captain Greves, who seemed to be a sensible intelligent +man, and had been all over it. He sailed in the morning of the same day +we did. + +Turtle, I am told, are to be found at this isle from January to June. +The method of catching them is to have people upon the several sandy +bays, to watch their coming on shore to lay their eggs, which is always +in the night, and then to turn them on their backs, till there be an +opportunity to take them off the next day. It was recommended to us to +send a good many men to each beach, where they were to lie quiet till +the turtle were ashore, and then rise and turn them at once. This method +may be the best when the turtle are numerous; but when there are but +few, three or four men are sufficient for the largest beach; and if they +keep patroling it, close to the wash of the surf, during the night, by +this method they will see all that come ashore, and cause less noise +than if there were more of them. It was by this method we caught the +most we got; and this is the method by which the Americans take them. +Nothing is more certain, than that all the turtle which are found about +this island, come here for the sole purpose of laying their eggs; for we +met with none but females; and of all those which we caught, not one had +any food worth mentioning in its stomach; a sure sign, in my opinion, +that they must have been a long time without any; and this may be the +reason why the flesh of them is not so good as some I have eat on the +coast of New South Wales, which were caught on the spot where they fed. + +The watch made 8 deg. 45' difference of longitude between St Helena and +Ascension; which, added to 5 deg. 49' the longitude of James Fort in St +Helena, gives 14 deg. 34' for the longitude of the Road of Ascension, or 14 deg. +30' for the middle of the island, the latitude of which is 8 deg. S. The +lunar observations made by Mr Wales, and reduced to the same point of +the island by the watch, gave 14 deg. 28' 30" west longitude. + +On the 31st of May, we left Ascension, and steered to the northward with +a fine gale at S.E. by E. I had a great desire to visit the island of St +Matthew, to settle its situation; but as I found the wind would not let +me fetch it, I steered for the island of Fernando de Noronha on the +coast of Brazil, in order to determine its longitude, as I could not +find this had yet been done. Perhaps I should have performed a more +acceptable service to navigation, if I had gone in search of the island +of St Paul, and those shoals which are said to lie near the equator, and +about the meridian of 20 deg. W.; as neither their situation nor existence +are well known. The truth is, I was unwilling to prolong the passage in +searching for what I was not sure to find; nor was I willing to give up +every object, which might tend to the improvement of navigation or +geography, for the sake of getting home a week or a fortnight sooner. It +is but seldom that opportunities of this kind offer; and when they do, +they are too often neglected. + +In our passage to Fernando de Noronha, we had steady fresh gales +between the S.E. and E.S.E., attended with fair and clear weather; and +as we had the advantage of the moon, a day or night did not pass without +making lunar observations for determining our longitude. In this run, +the variation of the compass gradually decreased from 11 deg. W., which it +was at Ascension., to 1 deg. W., which we found off Fernando de Noronha. +This was the mean result of two compasses, one of which gave 1 deg. 37', and +the other 23' W. + +On the 9th of June at noon we made the island of Fernando de Noronha, +bearing S.W. by W. 1/2 W., distant six or seven leagues, as we +afterwards found by the log. It appeared in detached and peaked hills, +the largest of which looked like a church tower or steeple. As we drew +near the S.E. part of the isle, we perceived several unconnected sunken +rocks lying near a league from the shore, on which the sea broke in a +great surf. After standing very near these rocks, we hoisted our +colours, and then bore up round the north end of the isle, or rather +round a group of little islets; for we could see that the land was +divided by narrow channels. There is a strong fort on the one next the +main island, where there are several others; all of which seemed to have +every advantage that nature can give them, and they are so disposed, as +wholly to command all the anchoring and landing-places about the island. +We continued to steer round the northern point, till the sandy beaches +(before which is the road for shipping) began to appear, and the forts +and the peaked hills were open to the westward of the said point. At +this time, on a gun being fired from one of the forts, the Portuguese +colours were displayed, and the example was followed by all the other +forts. As the purpose for which I made the island was now answered, I +had no intention to anchor; and therefore, after firing a gun to +leeward, we made sail and stood away to the northward with a fine fresh +gale at E.S.E. The peaked hill or church tower bore S., 27 deg. W., distant +about four or five miles; and from this point of view it leans, or +overhangs, to the east. This hill is nearly in the middle of the island, +which no where exceeds two leagues in extent, and shews a hilly unequal +surface, mostly covered with wood and herbage. + +Ulloa says, "This island hath two harbours capable of receiving ships of +the greatest burden; one is on the north side, and the other is on the +N.W. The former is, in every respect, the principal, both for shelter +and capacity, and the goodness of its bottom; but both are exposed to +the north and west, though these winds, particularly the north, are +periodical, and of no long continuance." He further says, "That you +anchor in the north harbour (which is no more than what I would call a +road) to thirteen fathoms water, one-third of a league from shore, +bottom of fine sand; the peaked hill above-mentioned bearing S.W. 2 deg. +southerly."[18] + +[Footnote 18: See Don Antonio d'Ulloa's Book, vol. ii. chap. 3. page 95 +to 102, where there is a very particular account of this island.] + +This road seems to be well sheltered from the south and east winds. One +of my seamen had been on board a Dutch India ship, who put in at this +isle in her way out in 1770. They were very sickly, and in want of +refreshments and water. The Portuguese supplied them with some buffaloes +and fowls; and they watered behind one of the beaches in a little pool, +which was hardly big enough to dip a bucket in. By reducing the observed +latitude at noon to the peaked hill, its latitude will be 3 deg. 53' S.; and +its longitude, by the watch, carried on from St Helena, is 32 deg. 34' W.; +and by observations of the sun and moon, made before and after we made +the Isle, and reduced to it by the watch, 32 deg. 44' 30" W. This was the +mean result of my observations. The results of those made by Mr Wales, +which were more numerous, gave 32 deg. 23'. The mean of the two will be +pretty near the watch, and probably nearest the truth. By knowing the +longitude of this isle, we are able to determine that of the adjacent +east coast of Brazil; which, according to the modern charts, lies about +sixty or seventy leagues more to the west. We might very safely have +trusted to these charts, especially the variation chart for 1744, and Mr +Dalrymple's of the southern Atlantic ocean.[19] + +[Footnote 19: Ulloa says, that the chart places this island sixty +leagues from the coast of Brazil; and that the Portuguese pilots, who +often make the voyage, judge it to be eighty leagues; but, by taking the +mean between the two opinions, the distance may be fixed at seventy +leagues.] + +On the 11th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we crossed the equator +in the longitude of 32 deg. 14' W. We had fresh gales at E.S.E., blowing in +squalls, attended by showers of rain, that continued at certain +intervals, till noon the next day, after which we had twenty-four hours +fair weather. + +At noon on the 13th, being in the latitude of 3 deg. 49' N., longitude 31 deg. +47' W., the wind became variable, between the N.E. and S.; and we had +light airs and squalls by turns, attended by hard showers of rain, and +for the most part dark gloomy weather, which continued till the evening +of the 15th, when, in the latitude of 5 deg. 47' N., longitude 31 deg. W., we +had three calm days, in which time we did not advance above ten or +twelve leagues to the north. We had fair weather and rain by turns; the +sky, for the most part, being obscured, and sometimes by heavy dense +clouds which broke in excessive hard showers. + +At seven o'clock in the evening on the 18th, the calm was succeeded by a +breeze at east, which the next day increasing and veering to and fixing +at N.E., we stretched to N.W. with our tacks on board. We made no doubt +that we had now got the N.E. trade-wind, as it was attended with fair +weather, except now and then some light showers of rain; and as we +advanced to the north the wind increased, and blew a fresh top-gallant +gale. + +On the 21st, I ordered the still to be fitted to the largest copper, +which held about sixty-four gallons. The fire was lighted at four +o'clock in the morning, and at six the still began to run. It was +continued till six o'clock in the evening; in which time we obtained +thirty-two gallons of fresh water, at the expence of one bushel and a +half of coals; which was about three-fourths of a bushel more than was +necessary to have boiled the ship's company's victuals only; but the +expence of fuel was no object with me. The victuals were dressed in the +small copper, the other being applied wholly to the still; and every +method was made use of to obtain from it the greatest quantity of fresh +water possible; as this was my sole motive for setting it to work. The +mercury in the thermometer at noon was eighty-four and a half, and +higher it is seldom found at sea. Had it been lower, more water, under +the same circumstances, would undoubtedly have been produced; for the +colder the air is, the cooler you can keep the still, which will +condense the steam the faster. Upon the whole, this is an useful +invention; but I would advise no man to trust wholly to it. For although +you may, provided you have plenty of fuel and good coppers, obtain as +much water as will support life, you cannot, with all your efforts, +obtain sufficient to support health, in hot climates especially, where +it is the most wanting: For I am well convinced, that nothing +contributes more to the health of seamen, than having plenty of water. + +The wind now remained invariably fixed at N.E. and E.N.E., and blew +fresh with squalls, attended with showers of rain, and the sky for the +most part cloudy. On the 25th, in the latitude of 16 deg. 12' N., longitude +37 deg. 20' W., seeing a ship to windward steering down upon us, we +shortened sail in order to speak with her; but finding she was Dutch by +her colours, we made sail again and left her to pursue her course, which +we supposed was to some of the Dutch settlements in the West Indies. In +the latitude of 20 deg. N., longitude 39 deg. 45' W., the wind began to veer to +E. by N. and E.; but the weather remained the same; that is, we +continued to have it clear and cloudy by turns, with light squalls and +showers. Our track was between N.W. by N. and N.N.W., till noon on the +28th, after which our course made good was N. by W., being at this time +in the latitude of 21 deg. 21' N., longitude 40 deg. 6' W. Afterwards, the wind +began to blow a little more steady, and was attended with fair and clear +weather. At two o'clock in the morning of the 30th, being in the +latitude of 24 deg. 20' N., longitude 40 deg. 47' W., a ship, steering to the +westward, passed us within hail. We judged her to be English, as they +answered us in that language; but we could not understand what they +said, and they were presently out of sight. + +In the latitude of 29 deg. 30', longitude 41 deg. 30', the wind slackened and +veered more to the S.E. We now began to see some of that sea-plant, +which is commonly called gulph-weed, from a supposition that it comes +from the Gulph of Florida. Indeed, for aught I know to the contrary, it +may be a fact; but it seems not necessary, as it is certainly a plant +which vegetates at sea. We continued to see it, but always in small +pieces, till we reached the latitude 36 deg., longitude 39 deg. W., beyond which +situation no more appeared. + +On the 5th of July, in the latitude of 22 deg. 31' 30" N., longitude 40 deg. 29' +W., the wind veered to the east, and blew very faint: The next day it +was calm; the two following days we had variable light airs and calms by +turns; and, at length, on the 9th, having fixed at S.S.W., it increased +to a fresh gale, with which we steered first N.E. and then E.N.E., with +a view of making some of the Azores, or Western Isles. On the 11th, in +the latitude of 36 deg. 45' N., longitude 36 deg. 45' W., we saw a sail which +was steering to the west; and the next day we saw three more. + + +SECTION XI. + +_Arrival of the Ship at the Island of Fayal, a Description of the Place, +and the Return of the Resolution to England._ + + +At five o'clock in the evening of the 13th, we made the island of Fayal, +one of the Azores, and soon after that of Pico, under which we spent the +night in making short boards. At day-break the next morning, we bore +away for the bay of Fayal, or De Horta, where at eight o'clock, we +anchored in twenty fathoms water, a clear sandy bottom, and something +more than half a mile from the shore. Here we moored N.E. and S.W., +being directed so to do by the master of the port, who came on board +before we dropped anchor. When moored, the S.W. point of the bay bore S. +16 deg. W., and the N.E. point N. 33 deg. E.; the church at the N.E. end of the +town N. 38 deg. W., the west point of St George's Island N. 42 deg. E., distant +eight leagues; and the isle of Pico, extending from N. 74 deg. E. to S. 46 deg. +E., distant four or five miles. + +We found in the bay the Pourvoyeur, a large French frigate, an American +sloop, and a brig belonging to the place. She had come last from the +river Amazon, where she took in a cargo of provision from the Cape Verd +Islands; but, not being able to find them, she steered for this place, +where she anchored about half an hour before us. + +As my sole design in stopping here was to give Mr Wales an opportunity +to find the rate of the watch, the better to enable us to fix with some +degree of certainty the longitude of these islands, the moment we +anchored, I sent an officer to wait on the English consul, and to notify +our arrival to the governor, requesting his permission for Mr Wales to +make observations on shore, for the purpose above mentioned. Mr Dent, +who acted as consul in the absence of Mr Gathorne, not only procured +this permission, but accommodated Mr Wales with a convenient place in +his garden to set up his instruments; so that he was enabled to observe +equal altitudes the same day. + +We were not more obliged to Mr Dent for the very friendly readiness he +shewed in procuring us this and every other thing we wanted, than for +the very liberal and hospitable entertainment we met with at his house, +which was open to accommodate us both night and day. + +During our stay, the ship's company was served with fresh beef; and we +took on board about fifteen tons of water, which we brought off in the +country boats, at the rate of about three shillings per ton. Ships are +allowed to water with their own boats; but the many inconveniencies +attending it, more than overbalance the expence of hiring shore-boats, +which is the most general custom. + +Fresh provisions for present use may be got, such as beef, vegetables, +and fruit; and hogs, sheep, and poultry for sea stock, all at a pretty +reasonable price; but I do not know that any sea-provisions are to be +had, except wine. The bullocks and hogs are very good, but the sheep are +small and wretchedly poor. + +The principal produce of Fayal is wheat and Indian corn, with which they +supply Pico and some of the other isles. The chief town is called Villa +de Horta. It is situated in the bottom of the bay, close to the edge of +the sea, and is defended by two castles, one at each end of the town, +and a wall of stone-work, extending along the sea-shore from the one to +the other. But these works are suffered to go to decay, and serve more +for shew than strength. They heighten the prospect of the city, which +makes a fine appearance from the road; but, if we except the Jesuits' +college, the monasteries and churches, there is not another building +that has any thing to recommend it, either outside or in. There is not a +glass window in the place, except what are in the churches, and in a +country-house which lately belonged to the English consul; all the +others being latticed, which, to an Englishman, makes them look like +prisons. + +This little city, like all others belonging to the Portuguese, is +crowded with religious buildings, there being no less than three +convents of men and two of women, and eight churches, including those +belonging to the convents, and the one in the Jesuits' college. This +college is a fine structure, and is situated on an elevation in the +pleasantest part of the city. Since the expulsion of that order, it has +been suffered to go to decay, and will probably, in a few years, be no +better than a heap of ruins. + +Fayal, although the most noted for wines, does not raise sufficient for +its own consumption. This article is raised on Pico, where there is no +road for shipping; but being brought to De Horta, and from thence +shipped abroad, chiefly to America, it has acquired the name of Fayal +Wine. + +The bay, or road of Fayal, is situated at the east end of the isle, +before the Villa de Horta, and facing the west end of Pico. It is two +miles broad, and three quarters of a mile deep, and hath a semi-circular +form. The depth of water is from twenty to ten and even six fathoms, a +sandy bottom, except near the shore, and particularly near the S.W. +head, off which the bottom is rocky, also without the line which joins +the two points of the bay, so that it is not safe to anchor far out. The +bearing before mentioned, taken when at anchor, will direct any one to +the best ground. It is by no means a bad road, but the winds most to be +apprehended, are those which blow from between the S.S.W. and S.E.; the +former is not so dangerous as the latter, because, with it, you can +always get to sea. Besides this road, there is a small cove round the +S.W. point, called Porto Pierre, in which, I am told, a ship or two may +lie in tolerable safety, and where they sometimes heave small vessels +down. + +A Portuguese captain told me, that about half a league from the road in +the direction of S.E., in a line between it and the south side of Pico, +lies a sunken rock, over which is twenty-two feet water, and on which +the sea breaks in hard gales from the south. He also assured me, that of +all the shoals that are laid down in our charts and pilot-books about +these isles, not one has any existence but the one between the islands +of St Michael and St Mary, called Hormingan. This account may be +believed, without relying entirely upon it. He further informed me, that +it is forty-five leagues from Fayal to the island of Flores; and that +there runs a strong tide between Fayal and Pico, the flood setting to +the N.E. and the ebb to the S.W., but that, out at sea, the direction is +E. and W. Mr Wales having observed the times of high and low water by +the shore, concluded that it must be high water at the full and change, +about twelve o'clock, and the water riseth about four or five feet. + +The distance between Fayal and Flores was confirmed by Mr Rebiers, +lieutenant of the French frigate, who told me, that after being by +estimation two leagues due south of Flores, they made forty-four leagues +on a S.E. by E. course by compass, to St Catherine's Point on Fayal. + + I found the latitude of the ship at anchor 38 deg. 31' 55" N. + in the bay + + By a mean of seventeen sets of lunar 28 24 30 W. + observations, and reduced to the bay + by the watch, the longitude was made + + By a mean of six sets after leaving it, 28 53 22 + and reduced back by the watch + ----------------- + Longitude by observation 28 38 56 + ----------------- + Ditto, by the watch 28 55 45 + + Error of the watch on our arrival at 16 26-1/2 + Portsmouth + ----------------- + True longitude by the watch 28 39 18-1/2 + _________________ + +I found the variation of the compass, by several azimuths, taken by +different compasses on board the ship, to agree very well with the like +observations made by Mr Wales on shore; and yet the variation thus found +is greater by 5 deg. than we found it to be at sea, for the azimuths taken +on board the evening before we came into the bay, gave no more than 16 deg. +18' W. variation, and the evening after we came out 17 deg. 33' W. + +I shall now give some account of the variation, as observed in our run +from the island of Fernando De Noronha to Fayal. The least variation we +found was 37' W. which was the day after we left Fernando De Noronha, +and in the latitude of 33' S., longitude 32 deg. 16' W. The next day, being +nearly in the same longitude, and in the latitude of 1 deg. 25' N., it was +1 deg. 23' W.; and we did not find it increase till we got into the latitude +of 5 deg. N., longitude 31 deg. W. After this our compasses gave different +variation, viz. from 3 deg. 57' to 5 deg. 11' W. till we arrived in the latitude +of 26 deg. 44' N., longitude 41 deg. W., when we found 6 deg. W. It then increased +gradually, so that in the latitude of 35 deg. N., longitude 40 deg. W., it was +10 deg. 24' W.; in the latitude of 38 deg. 12' N., longitude 32 deg. 1/2 W. it was +14 deg. 47'; and in sight of Fayal 16 deg. 18' W., as mentioned above. + +Having left the bay, at four in the morning of the 19th, I steered for +the west end of St George's Island. As soon as we had passed it, I +steered E. 1/2 S. for the Island of Tercera; and after having run +thirteen leagues, we were not more than one league from the west end. I +now edged away for the north side, with a view of ranging the coast to +the eastern point, in order to ascertain the length of the island; but +the weather coming on very thick and hazy, and night approaching, I gave +up the design, and proceeded with all expedition for England. + +On the 29th, we made the land near Plymouth. The next morning we +anchored at Spithead; and the same day I landed at Portsmouth, and set +out for London, in company with Messrs Wales, Forsters, and Hodges. + +Having been absent from England three years and eighteen days, in which +time, and under all changes of climate, I lost but four men, and only +one of them by sickness, it may not be amiss, at the conclusion of this +journal, to enumerate the several causes to which, under the care of +Providence, I conceive this uncommon good state of health, experienced +by my people, was owing. + +In the Introduction, mention has been made of the extraordinary +attention paid by the Admiralty in causing such articles to be put on +board, as either from experience or suggestion it was judged would tend +to preserve the health of the seamen. I shall not trespass upon the +reader's time in mentioning them all, but confine myself to such as were +found the most useful. + +We were furnished with a quantity of malt, of which was made _Sweet +Wort_. To such of the men as shewed the least symptoms of the scurvy, +and also to such as were thought to be threatened with that disorder, +this was given, from, one to two or three pints a-day each man; or in +such proportion as the surgeon found necessary, which sometimes amounted +to three quarts. This is, without doubt, one of the best anti-scorbutic +sea-medicines yet discovered; and, if used in time, will, with proper +attention to other things, I am persuaded, prevent the scurvy from +making any great progress for a considerable while. But I am not +altogether of opinion that it will cure it at sea. + +_Sour Krout_, of which we had a large quantity, is not only a wholesome +vegetable food, but, in my judgment, highly antiscorbutic; and it spoils +not by keeping. A pound of this was served to each man, when at sea, +twice-a-week, or oftener, as was thought necessary. + +_Portable Broth_ was another great article, of which we had a large +supply. An ounce of this to each man, or such other proportion as +circumstances pointed out, was boiled in their pease, three days in the +week; and when we were in places where vegetables were to be got, it was +boiled with them, and wheat or oatmeal, every morning for breakfast; and +also with pease and vegetables for dinner. It enabled us to make several +nourishing and wholesome messes, and was the means of making the people +eat a greater quantity of vegetables than they would otherwise have +done. + +_Rob of Lemon and Orange_ is an antiscorbutic we were not without. The +surgeon made use of it in many cases with great success. + +Amongst the articles of victualling, we were supplied with _Sugar_ in +the room of _Oil_, and with _Wheat_ for a part of our _Oatmeal_; and +were certainly gainers by the exchange. Sugar, I apprehend, is a very +good antiscorbutic; whereas oil (such as the navy is usually supplied +with), I am of opinion, has the contrary effect. + +But the introduction of the most salutary articles, either as provisions +or medicines, will generally prove unsuccessful, unless supported by +certain regulations. On this principle, many years experience, together +with some hints I had from Sir Hugh Palliser, Captains Campbell, Wallis, +and other intelligent officers, enabled me to lay a plan, whereby all +was to be governed. + +The crew were at three watches, except upon some extraordinary +occasions. By this means they were not so much exposed to the weather as +if they had been at watch and watch; and had generally dry clothes to +shift themselves, when they happened to get wet. Care was also taken to +expose them as little to wet weather as possible. + +Proper methods were used to keep their persons, hammocks, bedding, +cloaths, &c. constantly clean and dry. Equal care was taken to keep the +ship clean and dry betwixt decks. Once or twice a week she was aired +with fires; and when this could not be done, she was smoked with +gun-powder, mixed with vinegar or water. I had also, frequently, a fire +made in an iron pot, at the bottom of the well, which was of great use +in purifying the air in the lower parts of the ship. To this, and to +cleanliness, as well in the ship as amongst the people, too great +attention cannot be paid; the least neglect occasions a putrid and +disagreeable smell below, which nothing but fires will remove. + +Proper attention was paid to the ship's coppers, so that they were kept +constantly clean. + +The fat which boiled out of the salt beef and pork, I never suffered to +be given to the people; being of opinion that it promotes the scurvy. + +I was careful to take in water wherever it was to be got, even though we +did not want it, because I look upon fresh water from the shore to be +more wholesome than that which has been kept some time on board a ship. +Of this essential article we were never at an allowance, but had always +plenty for every necessary purpose. Navigators in general cannot, +indeed, expect, nor would they wish to meet with such advantages in this +respect, as fell to my lot. The nature of our voyage carried us into +very high latitudes. But the hardships and dangers inseparable from that +situation, were in some degree compensated by the singular felicity we +enjoyed, of extracting inexhaustible supplies of fresh water from an +ocean strewed with ice. + +We came to few places, where either the art of man, or the bounty of +nature, had not provided some sort of refreshment or other, either in +the animal or vegetable way. It was my first care to procure whatever of +any kind could be met with, by every means in my power; and to oblige +our people to make use thereof, both by my example and authority; but +the benefits arising from refreshments of any kind soon became so +obvious, that I had little occasion, to recommend the one, or to exert +the other. + +It doth not become me to say how far the principal objects of our voyage +have been obtained. Though it hath not abounded with remarkable events, +nor been diversified by sudden transitions of fortune; though my +relation of it has been more employed in tracing our course by sea, than +in recording our operations on shore; this, perhaps, is a circumstance +from which the curious reader may infer, that the purposes for which we +were sent into the Southern Hemisphere, were diligently and effectually +pursued. Had we found out a continent there, we might have been better +enabled to gratify curiosity; but we hope our not having found it, after +all our persevering researches, will leave less room for future +speculation about unknown worlds remaining to be explored. + +But, whatever may be the public judgment about other matters, it is with +real satisfaction, and without claiming any merit but that of attention +to my duty, that I can conclude this account with an observation, which +facts enable me to make; that our having discovered the possibility of +preserving health amongst a numerous ship's company, for such a length +of time, in such varieties of climate, and amidst such continued +hardships and fatigues, will make this voyage remarkable in the opinion +of every benevolent person, when the disputes about a Southern Continent +shall have ceased to engage the attention, and to divide the judgment of +philosophers.[20] + +[Footnote 20: We cannot better express the importance of the +preservative measures adopted during this voyage, and therefore the +value of the voyage itself, than by quoting a passage from Sir John +Pringle's discourse on assigning to Captain Cook the Royal Society's +Copleyan medal, a distinguished honour conferred on him, though absent +on his last expedition, shortly after having been elected a member of +that illustrious body. "I would enquire of the most conversant in the +study of bills of mortality, whether, in the most healthful climate, and +in the best condition of life, they have ever found so small a number of +deaths, within the same space of time? How great and agreeable then must +our surprise be, after perusing the histories of long navigations in +former days, when so many perished by marine diseases, to find the air +of the sea acquitted of all malignity, and, in fine, that a voyage round +the world may be undertaken with less danger, perhaps, to health, than a +common tour in Europe!"--"If Rome," he says in conclusion, "decreed the +civic crown to him who saved the life of a single citizen, what wreaths +are due to that man, who, having himself saved many, perpetuates in your +Transactions, (alluding to Captain Cook's paper on the subject), the +means by which Britain may now, on the most distant voyages, preserve +numbers of her intrepid sons, her _mariners_; who, braving every danger, +have so liberally contributed to the fame, to the opulence, and to the +maritime empire, of their country?"--An acknowledgement so judicious +finds a response in every breast that knows how to estimate the value of +human life and happiness, and will not fail to secure to the name of +Cook, the grateful applause of every succeeding generation.--E.] + + + + +A + +VOCABULARY + +OF THE + +LANGUAGE OF THE SOCIETY ISLES. + + * * * * * + +DIRECTIONS + +_For the Pronunciation of the Vocabulary_. + + +As all nations who are acquainted with the method of communicating their +ideas by characters, (which represent the sound that conveys the idea,) +have some particular method of managing, or pronouncing, the sounds +represented by such characters, this forms a very essential article in +the constitution of the language of any particular nation, and must, +therefore, be understood before we can make any progress in learning, or +be able to converse in it. But as this is very complex and tedious to a +beginner, by reason of the great variety of powers the characters, or +letters, are endued with under different circumstances, it would seem +necessary, at least in languages which have never before appeared in +writing, to lessen the number of these varieties, by restraining the +different sounds, and always representing the same simple ones by the +same character; and this is no less necessary in the English than any +other language, as this variety of powers is very frequent, and without +being taken notice of in the following Vocabulary, might render it +entirely unintelligible. As the vowels are the regulations of all +sounds, it is these only that need be noticed, and the powers allotted +to each of these in the Vocabulary is subjoined. + +_A_ in the English language is used to represent two different simple +sounds, as in the word Arabia, where the first and last have a different +power from the second. In the Vocabulary this letter must always have +the power, or be pronounced like the first and last in Arabia. The other +power, or sound, of the second _a_, is always represented in the +Vocabulary by _a_ and _i_, printed in Italics thus, _ai_. + +_E_ has likewise two powers, or it is used to represent two simple +sounds, as in the words Eloquence, Bred, Led, &c. and it may be said to +have a third power, as in the words Then, When, &c. In the first case, +this letter is only used at the beginning of words, and wherever it is +met with in any other place in the words of the Vocabulary, it is used +as in the second case: But never as in the third example; for this +power, or sound, is every where expressed by the _a_ and _i_ +before-mentioned, printed in Italics. + +_I_ is used to express different simple sounds, as in the words +Indolence, Iron, and Imitation. In the Vocabulary it is never used as in +the first case, but in the middle of words; it is never used as in the +second example, for that sound is always represented by _y_, nor is it +used as in the last case, that sound being always represented by two +_e_'s, printed in Italics in this manner, _ee_. + +_O_ never alters in the pronunciation, i.e. in this Vocabulary, of a +simple sound, but is often used in this manner, _oo_, and sounds as in +Good, Stood, &c. + +_U_ alters, or is used to express different simple sounds, as in Unity, +or Umbrage. Here the letters _e_ and _u_, printed in Italics _eu_ are +used to express its power as in the first example, and it always retains +the second power, wherever it is met with. + +_Y_ is used to express different sounds, as in My, By, &c. &c. and in +Daily, Fairly, &c. Wherever it is met with in the middle, or end, (i.e. +anywhere but at the beginning,) of a word, it is to be used as in the +first example; but is never to be found as in the second, for that +sound, or power, is always represented by the Italic letter _e_. It has +also a third power, as in the words Yes, Yell, &c., which is retained +every where in the Vocabulary, at least in the beginning of words, or +when it goes before another vowel, unless directed to be sounded +separately by a mark over it, as thus, y a. + +Unless in a few instances, these powers of the vowels are used +throughout the Vocabulary; but, to make the pronunciation still less +liable to change, or variation, a few marks are added to the words, as +follows:-- + +This mark " as oea, means that these letters are to be expressed singly. + +The letters in Italic, as _ee_, or _oo_, make but one simple sound. + +When a particular stress is laid on any part of a word in the +pronunciation, an accent is placed over that letter where it begins, or +rather between that and the preceding one. + +It often happens that a word is compounded as it were of two, or in some +cases the same word, or syllable, is repeated. In these circumstances, a +comma is placed under them at this division, where a rest, or small +space, of time is left before you proceed to pronounce the other part, +but it must not be imagined that this is a full stop. + + + _Examples in all these Cases._ + + Roea, Great, long, distant. E'r_ee_ma, Five. Ry'po_ee_a, Fog, _or + mist_. E'h_oo_ra, To invert, _or turn upside down_. Par_oo_, r_oo_, + A partition, _division, or screen_. + + +A +VOCABULARY, &c. + + A. + To abide, _or remain_ Ete'_ei_. + An Abode, _or place of residence_, Noho`ra. + Above, _not below_, N_eea_, s. Tie'n_eea_. + An Abscess, Fe'fe. + Action, _opposed to rest_, Ta'er_ee_. + + Adhesive, _of an adhesive or sticking + quality_ Oo'p_ee_re. + + Adjoining, _or contiguous to_, E'p_ee_iho. + + Admiration, _an interjection of_, A'w_ai_, s. A'w_ai_ + to P_ee_r_ee_ai. + + An adulterer, T_ee_ho t_ee_ho, s. Teeho + _or one that vexes a married woman_ ta-rar + + To agitate, _or shake a thing, + as water, &c._ E_oo_a'w_ai_. + + Aliment, _or food of any kind_, Maea. + Alive, _that is not dead_, Waura. + All, _the whole, not a part_, A'ma_oo_. + Alone, _by one's self_, Ota'h_oi_. + + Anger, _or to be angry_, Warrad_ee_, + s. R_ee_d_ee_. + + To angle, _or fish_, E'h_oo_tee. + _The_ Ankle, Momoa. + _The inner_ Ankle, A't_oo_a,ewy. + Answer, _an answer to a question_, Oo'm_ai_a. + Approbation, _or consent_, Mad_oo_ho'why. + _Punctuated_ Arches _on the hips_, E'var're. + _The_ Arm, R_ee_ma. + _The_ Armpit, E'e. + _An_ arrow, E'_oo_me. + Arrow, _the body of an arrow or reed_, O'wha. + _The point of an_ Arrow, To'_ai_, s. O'moea. + Ashamed, _to be ashamed or confused_, Ama, s. He'ama. + Ashore, _or on shore_, Te Euta. + To ask _for a thing_, Ho'my, s. Ha'py my. + Asperity, _roughness_, Tarra, tarra. + + An Assassin,_murderer, or rather + man-killer, soldier, Taata,Toea. or + warrior_, + + An Assembly, _or meeting_, Ete_ou_'rooa. Atherina, + A'n_ai_h_eu_. + + Avaricious, _parsimonious, ungenerous_, P_ee_'p_ee_re. + Averse, _unwillingness to do a thing_, Fata, h_oi_to' _hoi_to. + Authentic,_true_, Par_ou_, m_ou_. + Awake, _not asleep_, Arra arra, s. E'ra. + Awry,_or to one side; as a wry neck_, Na'na. + An Axe, _hatchet, or adze_, Toee. + Ay, _yes; an affirmation_, _Ai_. + +B. + + A Babe, _or child_, Mydidde. + A Batchelor, _or unmarried person_, E'ev_ee_ (taata.) + The_ Back, T_oo_a_. + To wipe the_ Backside, Fy'r_oo_,too'ty. + Bad, _it is not good_, 'Ee'no. + A Bag _of straw_, Ete'oee, s.Eaete. + Bait, _for fish_, Era'_eu_noo. + Baked _in the oven_, Et_oo_n_oo_. + Bald-headed, O_o_po'b_oo_ta. + Bamboo, E_e_n_ee'ou_. + A Bank, _or shoal_, E'paa. + + Bare, _naked, applied to a person that + is undressed_, Ta'turra. + + The Bark _of a tree_, Ho'hore. + Barren _land_, Fe'nooa Ma'_ou_re. + _A large round_ Basket _of twig_, He'na. + _A small_ Basket _of cocoa leaves_, V_ai_'hee. + _A long _Basket _of cocoa leaves_, Apo'_ai_ra. + A Basket _of plantain stock_, Papa' M_aiee_a. + _A fisher's_ Basket, Er're'vy. + _A round_ Basket _of cocoa leaves_, Mo'ene. + A Bastard, Fanna T_oo_'n_ee_a. + Bastinado, _to bastinade or flog a person_, Tapra'h_ai_. + To bathe, Ob'_oo_. + A Battle, _or fight_, E'motto. + A Battle-axe, O'morre. + To bawl, _or cry aloud_, T_ei_mo'toro. + A Bead, Poee. + The Beard, _Oo_me _oo_me. + To beat _upon, or strike a thing_, T_oo_'py or T_oo_'ba_ee_. + To beat _a drum_, Er_oo_'k_oo_. + To beckon _a person with the hand_, Ta'rappe. + A Bed, _or bed-place_, E'ro_ee_, s. Moei'a. + To bedaub, _or bespatter_, Par'ry. + A Bee, E'raeo. + A Beetle, P_ee_re'te_ee_. + Before, _not behind_, Te'moea. + + A Beggar, _a person that is troublesome_, Tapa'r_oo_. + _continually asking for some-what_, + + Behind, _not before_, Te'm_oo_r_ee_. + To belch, Er_oo_'y. + Below, _as below stairs_, Tei'dirro, s. T_ee_diraro. + Below, _underneath, far below_, O'raro. + To bend _any thing, as a stick_, &c. Fa'fe'fe. + Benevolence, _generosity_, Ho'roea, + e.g. _you are a generous man_, Taata ho roa oee. + Between, _in the middle, betwixit two_, Fero'p_oo_. + To bewail, _or lament by crying_, E'tat_ee_. + Bigness, _largeness, great_, Ara'hay. + A Bird, Manoo. + A Bitch, _Oo_re, e'_oo_ha. + To bite, _as a dog_, A ah_oo_. + Black, _colour_, Ere, ere. + Bladder, Toea meeme. + + A_ Blasphemer, _a person who speaks_ T_oo_na, (t_aa_ta.) + _disrespectfully of their deities_, + + Blind, Matta-po. + + A Blister, _raised by a burn or + other means_, Mei'_ee_ + + Blood, Toto, s. Eh_ooei_. + To blow _the nose_, Fatte. + The blowing, _or breathing of a whale_, Ta'hora. + Blunt, _as a blunt tool of any sort_, Ma'n_ee_a. + _The carved_ Boards _of a Maray_, E'ra. + _A little_ Boat, _or canoe_, E'vaea. + A Boil, Fe'fe. + Boldness, Eaew_ou_. + A Bone, E'ev_ee_. + A Bonetto, _a fish so called_, Peera'ra. + To bore _a hole_, Ehoo'_ee_, s. Eh_oo_'o. + A Bow, E'fanna. + A Bow-string, Aroea'h_oo_a. + To bow _with the head_, Etoo'o. + _A young_ Boy, My'didde. + Boy, _a familiar way of speaking_, He'aman_ee_. + The Brain _of any animal_, A b_oo_ba. + A Branch _of a tree or plant_, E'ama. + + Bread-fruit, _or the fruit of the + bread-tree_, _Oo_r_oo_. + + Bread-fruit, _a particular sort of it_, E'patea. + _An insipid paste of_ Bread-fruit, Eh'oee. + _The gum of the _Bread-tree, Tappo'_oo_r_oo_. + _The leaf of the_ Bread-tree, E'da'_oo_r_oo_. + _The pith of the_ Bread-tree, Po'_oo_r_oo_. + + To break _a thing_, O whatte, s. Owhan ne, + s. Fatte. + + The Breast, O'ma + + A Breast-plate _made of twigs, ornamented + with feathers, dog's hair, Ta_oo_me. + and pearl-shell_, + + To breathe, Watte Weete wee + te,'aho. + + Bring, _to ask one to bring a thing_, Ho'my. + Briskness, _being brisk or quick_, T_ee_ t_ee_re. + Broiled, _or roasted, as broiled meat_, _Oo_aw_ee_ra. + Broken, _or cut_, 'Mot_oo_. + The Brow, _or forehead_, E'ry. + A brown _colour_, Aur_au_ra. + Buds _of a tree or plant_, Te, arre ha_oo_. + A Bunch _of any fruit_, Eta. + To burn _a thing_, Doeod_oo_e. + A Butterfly, Pepe. + + C. + + To call _a person at a distance_, T_oo_o t_oo_'o_oo_. + A Calm, Man_ee_no. + + A Calm, _or rather to be so placed, + that the wind has no access to you_, E_ou_, shea. + + _Sugar_ Cane, Toe, Etoeo. + A Cap, _or covering for the head_ T_au_'matta. + To carry _any thing_, E'a'mo. + To carry _a person an the back_, Eva'ha. + + Catch a _thing hastily with the hand_, Po'po_ee_, s. Peero. + as a fly, &c. + + To catch _a ball_, Ama'wh_ee_a. + To catch _fish with a line_, E'h_oo_te. + A Caterpillar, E't_oo_a. + Celerity, _swiftness_, T_ee_'teere, s. E'tirre. + The Centre, _or middle of a thing_, Tera'p_oo_. + Chalk, Mamma'tea. + + A Chatterer, _or noisy impertinent Taata E'm_oo_, + fellow_, s. E'm_oo_. + + Chearfulness, Wara. + The Cheek, Pappar_ee_a. + A Chest, 'P_ee_ha. + The Chest, _or body_, O'p_oo_. + To chew, _or eat_, E'y. + Chequered, _or painted in squares_, P_oo_re, p_oo_re. + A Chicken, Moea pee'ri_a_ia. + + A Chief, _or principal person; one of Eaeree. + the first rank among the people_, + + _An inferior_ Chief, _or one who + is only in an independent state, T_oo'ou_ + a gentleman_, + + Child-bearing, Fanou, e'vaho. + + Children's _language_, Father, O'pucen_oo_, _and_ Papa. + Mother, E'wh_ei_arre, & O'pa'tea. + Brother, E'tama. + Sister, Te't_oo_a. + + The Chin, _and lower jaw_, E'taa. + + Choaked, _to be choaked as with Ep_oo_'n_ei_na, + victuals_, &c. s. Er_oo_'y. + + To chuse, _or pick out_, Eh_ee_e,te,me,my ty. + + Circumcision, _or rather an incision_ E_oo_re,te h_ai_. + _of the foreskin_, + + _A sort of_ Clappers,_used at funerals_, Par'ha_oo_. + + Clapping _the bend of the arm smartly E'too. + with the hand, so as to make a noise, + an Indian custom_, + + The Claw _of a bird,_ A'_ee oo_. + Clay, _or clammy earth_, Ewh_ou_,arra. + Clean, _not nasty_, _Oo_'ma, s. Eoo'_ee_. + Clear, _pure; as clear water_, &c. Tea'te. + _White clayey_ Cliffs, E'mammatea. + Close, _shut_, Eva'h_ee_. + Cloth _of any kind, or rather the covering Ahoo. + or raiments made of it_, + + _A piece of oblong_ Cloth, _slit in the + middle, through which the head is Teeboota. + put, and it then hangs down behind + and before_, + + _Brown thin_ Cloth, _Oo_'erai. + _Dark-brown_ Cloth, Poo'h_ee_re. + _Nankeen-coloured_ Cloth, Ah_ee_re, s. _Oo_a. + _Gummed_ Cloth, Oo'_ai_r ara. + + Heappa,heappa, s. + _Yellow_ Cloth, A'ade, p_oo ee ei_, s. + Oora poo'_ee ei_. + + Cloth, _a piece of thin white cloth Par_oo_'y, by which name + wrapt round the waist, or thrown they also call a white + over the shoulders_, shirt. + + A Cloth-beater, _or an oblong square To'aa. + piece of wood grooved, and used in + making cloth_, + + The _Cloth-plant, _a sort of mulberry Ea_ou_te. + tree_, + + A Cloud, E'aeo, s. Ea_oo_. + A Cock, Moea, e'toea. + Cock, _the cock claps his wings_ Te Moa Pa_ee_, pa_ee_. + A Cock-roach, Potte potte. + A Cocoa-nut, A'r_ee_. + + _The fibrous husk of a_ Cocoa-nut, P_oo_r_oo_'waha, + s. P_oo_r_oo_. + + Cocoa-nut _oil_, E'rede,vaee. + Cocoa leaves, E,ne'ha_oo_. + Coition, E'y. + _The sense of_ Cold, Ma'r_ee_de. + A Comb, Pa'horo, s. Pa'herre. + Company, _acquaintance, gossips_, Tee'ya. + Compliance _with a request, consent_, Mad_oo_,ho'why. + Computation, _or counting of numbers_, Ta't_ou_. + + A Concubine, Wa'h_ei_ne Moeebo, + s. Etoo'n_ee_a. + + Confusedness, _without order_, E'vah_ee_a. + Consent, _or approbation_, Mad_oo_,ho'why. + + Contempt, _a name of contempt given Wah_ei_ne,p_oo_'ha. + to a maid, or unmarried woman_, + + Conversation, Para_ou_,maro, s. + Para'para_ou_. + + _A sort of_ Convolvulus, _or bird-weed, + common in the islands_, Oh_oo_e. + + Cook'd, _dress'd; not raw_, Ee'_oo_, s. E_ee_'wera. + To Cool _one with a fan_, Taha`r_ee_. + Cordage _of any kind_, Taura. + The Core _of an apple_, Boee. + + A Cork, _or stopper of a bottle or gourd + shell_, Ora'h_oo_e. + + A Corner, E'pecho. + + Covering, _the covering of a fish's gills_, Pe_ee_'eya. + + Covetousness, _or rather one not inclined + to give_, Pee,peere. + + A Cough, Ma're. + To Court, _woo a woman_, Ta'raro. + Coyness _in a woman,_ No'noea. + A Crab, Pappa. + + Crab, _a large land-crab that climbs + the cocoa-nut trees for fruit_, E'_oo_wa. + + A Crack, cleft, or fissure, Mot_oo_. + Crammed, _lumbered, crowded_, Ooa,p_ee_a'pe,s.Ehotto. + The Cramp, Emo't_oo_ t_oo_. + A Cray-fish, O'_oo_ra. + To Creep _on the hands and feet_, Ene'_ai_. + Crimson _colour_, _Oo_ra _oo_ra. + Cripple, _lame_, T_ei_'t_ei_. + Crooked, _not straight_, O_o_o'p_ee_o. + To crow _as a cock_, A'a _oo_a. + The Crown _of the head_, T_oo_'p_oo_e. + To cry, _or shed tears_, Ta_ee_. + + _A brown_ Cuckoo, _with black bars and + a long tail, frequent in the isles_, Ara'were_wa_. + + To cuff, _or slap the chops_, E'par_oo_. + + Curlew, _a small curlew or whimbrel + found about the rivulets_, Torea. + + Cut, _or divided_, Mot_oo_. + _To_ cut _the hair with scissars_, O'tee. + + D. + + A Dance, H_ee_va. + + Darkness, Poee'r_ee_, + s. Po_oo_'r_ee_ + + To Darn O'ono + A Daughter, Ma'h_ei_ne. + + Day, _or day-light_, Mara'marama, s. + A'_ou_, s. A'a_ou_. + + Day-break, Oota'tah_ei_ta. + Day, _to-day_, A_oo_'n_ai_. + Dead, Matte roea. + _A natural_ Death, Matte noea. + Deafness, Ta'r_ee_a, t_oo_r_ee_. + Decrepid, Epoo't_oo_a. + Deep water, Mona'. + A Denial, _or refusal_, Eh_oo_'noea. + To desire, _or wish for a thing_, E_ooee_. + A Devil, _or evil spirit_, E't_ee_. + Dew, Ahe'a_oo_. + A Diarrhoea, _or looseness_, Hawa, hawa. + + To_ dip _meat in salt water instead of_ Eaw_ee_'wo + _salt, (an Indian custom_,) + + Dirt, _or nastiness of any kind_, E'repo. + Disapprobation, Eh_oo_noea. + + A Disease, _where the head cannot be E'p_ee_. + held up, perhaps the palsy_, + To disengage, _untie or loosen_, Ea_oo_'w_ai_. + Dishonesty, E_ee_'a. + + Displeased, _to be displeased, vexed, or Ta_ee_'va. + in the dumps_, + + Dissatisfaction, _to grumble, or be Fa_oo_'oue. + dissatisfied_, + + Distant, _far off_, Roea. + + _To_ distort, _or writhe the limbs, body, Faee'ta. + lips, &c. + + To distribute, _divide or share out_, At_oo_'ha. + A District, Matei na. + A Ditch, Eoe'h_oo_. + To dive _under water_, Eho'p_oo_. + A Dog, _Oo_'r_ee_. + A Doll _made of cocoa-plants_, Ad_oo_'a. + A Dolphin, A'_ou_na. + + Done, _have done; or that is enough_, A'teera. + _or there is no more_, + + A Door, _Oo_'b_oo_ta. + + Double, _or when two things are in_ Tau'r_oo_a. + _one, as a double canoe_, + + Down, _or soft hair_, E'waou, + To draw _a bow_, Etea. + + To draw, _or drag a thing by force_, Era'ko. + Dread, _or fear_, Mattou. + Dress'd, _or cooked, not raw_, Ee'_oo_. + _A head_ Dress, _used at funerals_, Pa'ra_ee_. + To dress, _or put on the cloaths_, Eu, hau'ho_oo_ t'Ahoo. + To drink, A_ee_'n_oo_. + Drop, _a single drop of any liquid_, _Oo_,ata'hai. + + To drop, _or leak_, Eto't_oo_r_oo_, s. + E't_oo_r_oo_. + + Drops, _as drops of rain_, To'potta. + Drowned, Parre'mo. + A Drum, Pa'hoo. + Dry, _not wet_, _Oo_'maro. + A Duck, Mora. + A Dug, _teat, or nipple_, E_oo_. + Dumbness, E'faoe. + + E. + + The Ear, Ta'r_ee_a. + _The inside of the_ Ear, Ta'toor_ee_. + An Ear-ring, Poe note tar_ee_a. + To eat, _or chew_, E'y, s. Maea. + An Echinus, _or sea-egg_, Heawy. + Echo, T_oo_o. + An Egg _of a bird_, Ehooero te Man_oo_. + _A white_ Egg-bird, Pee'ry. + Eight, A'waroo. + The Elbow, T_oo_'r_ee_. + + Empty, Oooata'aoe, + s. Tata'_oo_a. + + An Enemy, Taata'e. + Entire, _whole, not broke_, Eta, Eta. + Equal, _Oo_hy't_ei_. + Erect, _upright_, Et_oo_. + A Euphorbium _tree, with white flowers_, Te'too_ee_. + The Evening, Oooh_oi_'h_oi_. + Excrement, T_oo_'ty. + To expand, _or spread out cloth, &c._ Ho'hora. + The Eye, Matta. + The Eye-brow, _and eye-lid_, T_oo_a, matta. + + F. + + The Face, E'mot_ee_a. + + _To hide or hold the_ Face _away, as_ + when ashamed_, Far_ee_'w_ai_. + Facetious, _merry_, Faatta atta. + Fainting, _to faint_, Moee,mo'my. + To fall _down_, Topa. + False, _not true_, Ha'warre. + A Fan, _or to fan the face or cool it_, Taha'r_ee_. + To fart, _or a fart_, Eh_oo_. + Fat, _full of flesh, lusty_, P_ee_a. + The fat _of meat_, Ma_ee_. + A Father Med_oo_a tanne. + A _step-_father, Tanne, te hoea. + Fatigued, _tired_, E'h_ei'eu_,s.Faea. + Fear, Mattou. + + A Feather, _or quill_, H_oo_roo, _hoo_r_oo_, + man_oo_. + + _Red_ Feathers, Ora, h_oo_r_oo_ te man_oo_. + Feebleness, _weakness_, Fara'ra, s. Tooro'r_ee_. + _The sense of_ Feeling, Fa'fa. + To feel, Tear'ro. + _A young clever dexterous_ Fellow, _or boy_, Te'my de pa'ar_ee_. + The Female _kind of any animal_, E'_oo_ha. + The Fern-tree, Ma'mo_oo_. + Fertile _land_, Fen_oo_a,maa. + Fetch, _go fetch it_, Atee. + Few _in number_, Eote. + To fight, E'neotto. + A Fillip, _with the fingers_, Epatta. + The Fin _of a fish_, Tirra. + To finish, _or make an end_, Eiote. + A Finger, E'r_ee_ma. + Fire, Ea'hai. + _A flying_ Fish, Mara'ra. + _A green flat_ Fish, E_eu_me. + _A yellow flat_ Fish, _Oo_'morehe. + _A flat green and red_ P_ai'ou_. + _The cuckold_ Fish, Etata. + A Fish, Eya. + + Fishing _wall for hauling the seine at Epa. + the first point_, + + A Fish _pot_, E'wha. + + _A long_ Fishing _rod of Bamboo, used Ma'k_ee_ra. + to catch bonettoes_, &c., + + A Fissure, _or crack_, Motoo. + Fist, _to open the fist_, Ma'hora. + Fist, _striking with the fist in dancing_, A'moto. + _A fly_ Flapper, _or to flap flies_, Dah_ee_'ere e'r_eu_pa. + + Flatness, _applied to a nose, or a vessel + broad and flat; also a spreading + flat topt tree_, Papa. + + _A red_ Flesh _mark_, E_ee_'da. + To float _on the face of the water_, Pa'noo. + The Flower _of a plant_, P_oo_a. + _Open_ Flowers, T_ee_arre'_oo_ wa. + + Flowers, _white odoriferous flowers, + used as ornaments in the ears_, T_ee_arre tarr_ee_a. + + Flown, _it is flown or gone away_, Ma'h_ou_ta. + A Flute, W_ee_wo. + _A black_ Fly-catcher, _a bird so called_, O'mamaeo. + A Fly, P_oo_re'h_oo_a. + To fly, _as a bird_, E'r_ai_re. + Fog, _or mist_, Ry'po_ee_a. + To fold _up a thing, as cloth_, &c. He'fet_oo_. + + A Fool, _scoundrel, or other epithet of + contempt_, Ta'_ou_na. + + The Foot, _or sole of the foot_, Tapooy. + The Forehead, E'ry. + Forgot, _or lost in memory_, _Oo_'aro. + Foul, _dirty, nasty_, Erepo. + A Fowl, Moea. + Four, E'ha. + The Frapping _of a flute_, Ahea. + Freckles, Taina. + Fresh, _not salt_, Eanna,anna. + Friction, _rubbing_, E'_oo ee_. + + Friend, _a method of addressing a + stranger_, Ehoea + + _A particular_ Friend, _or the salutation E'apatte. + to him_, + + To frisk, _to wanton, to play_, E'hanne. + + From _there_, No,r_ei_ra, + s. No,r_ei_da. + + From _without_, No,waho'_oo_. + From _before_, No,m_oo_a. + Fruit, 'Hoo'ero. + + _Perfume_ Fruit _from Tethuroa_, a + _small island_, Hooero te manoo. + + _A yellow_ Fruit, _like a large plumb + with a rough core_, A'v_ee_. + + Full, _satisfied with eating_, Pya,s._Oo_'pya, + s.'Paya. + + A Furunculus, _or a small hard boil_, Apoo. + + G. A Garland _of flowers_, A'v_ou_t_oo_, + s. A'r_ou_too + Ef ha, apai. + + Generosity, _benevolence_, Ho'roea. + A Gimblet, Eho'_oo_. + A Girdle, Ta't_oo_a. + A Girl, _or young woman_, Too'n_ee_a. + A Girthing _manufacture_, Tat_oo_'y. + To give _a thing_, Hoea't_oo_. + _A looking_-Glass, H_ee_o'_ee_ota. + + A Glutton, _or great eater_, Taata A'_ee_, s. + Era'poea n_oo_e. + + To go, _or move from where you stand_ Harre. + _to walk_ + + To go, _or leave a place_, Era'wa. + Go, _begone, make haste and do it_, Haro. + Go _and fetch it_, At_ee_. + + Good, _it is good, it is very well_, My`ty, s. + Myty,tye, + s. Maytay. + + Good-_natured_, Mama'h_ou_, + s. Ma'r_oo_. + + A Grandfather, Too'b_oo_na. + A Great-grandfather, Tooboona tahe'too. + A Great great-grandfather, Ouroo. + A Grandson, Mo'b_oo_na. + To grasp _with the hand_, Hara'wa_ai_. + + Grasping _the antagonist's thigh when Tomo. + dancing_, + + Grass, _used on the floors of their Ano'noho. + houses, + + To grate _cocoa-nut kernel_, E'annatehea'r_ee_. + Great, _large, big_, Ara'h_ai_. + Green _colour_, P_oo_re p_oore_. + To groan, Er_oo_,whe. + The groin, Ta'pa. + To grow _as a plant_, &c. We'r_oo_a. + To grunt, _or strain_, Etee,_too_whe. + _The blind_ Gut, Ora'b_oo_b_oo_. + The Guts _of any animal_, A'a_oo_. + + H. + The Hair _of the head_, E'ror_oo_, + s. E'roh_oo_r_oo_. + + _Grey_ Hair, Hinna'heina. + _Red_ Hair, _or a red-headed man_, E'h_oo_. + _Curled_ Hair, P_ee_p_ee_. + _Woolly frizzled_ Hair, Oe'toeeto. + _To pull the_ Hair, E'w_ou_a. + Hair, _tied on the crown of the head_, E'p_oo_te. + Half _of any thing_, Fa'_ee_te. + A Hammer, Et_ee_'te. + Hammer _it out_, Atoo'bian_oo_. + The Hand, E'r_ee_ma. + _A deformed_ Hand, P_ee_le'_oi_. + _A motion with the_ Hand _in dancing_, O'ne o'ne. + A Harangue, _or speech_, Oraro. + A Harbour, _or anchoring-place_, T_oo_'t_ou_. + Hardness, E'ta,e'ta. + A Hatchet, _axe, or adze_, Toee. + He, Nana. + The Head, _Oo_'po. + _A shorn_ Head, E'v_ou_a. + + The Head-ache, _in consequence of + drunkenness_, Eana`n_ee_a. + + _The sense of_ Hearing, Faro. + The Heart _of an animal_, A'h_ou_too. + Heat, _warmth_, Mahanna,hanna. + Heavy, _not light_, T_ei_ma'ha. + _The sea_ Hedge-hog, Totera. + _A blue_ Heron, Otoo. + _A white_ Heron, Tra'pappa. + To hew _with an axe_, Teraee. + + Hibiscus, _the smallest species of Hibiscus, + with rough seed cases, that adhere + to the clothes in walking_, P_ee_re,p_ee_re. + + Hibiscus, _a species of Hibiscus with + large yellow flowers_, Po_oo_'r_ou_. + + The Hiccup, Et_oo_'ee, + s. E_oo_'wha. + + Hide, _to hide a thing_, E'h_oo_na. + High, _or steep_, Mato. + + A Hill, _or mountain_, Ma_oo_, + s. Ma_oo_'a, + s. M_ou_a. + + _One-tree_ Hill, _a hill so called in + Matavia Bay_, Tal'ha. + + To hinder, _or prevent_, Tapea. + The Hips, E'tohe. + + Hips, _the black punctuated part of Tamo'r_ou_. + the hips_, + + To hit _a mark_, Ele'ba_ou_, + s. Wa'p_oo_ta. + + Hiss, _to hiss or hold out the finger at T_ee_'he. + one_, + + Hoarseness, E'faeo. + A Hog, Boea. + To hold _fast_, Mou. + Hold _your tongue, be quiet or silent_, Ma'm_oo_, + A Hole, _as a gimblet hole in wood_,&c, E'r_oo_a, s. Poota. + To hollow, _or cry aloud to one_, T_oo_'o. + _To keep at_ Home, Ate'_ei_ te Efarre. + Honesty, Eea'_ou_re. + _A fish_ Hook, Ma't_au_. + _A fish_ Hook _of a particular sort_, W_ee_te,w_ee_te. + + The Horizon, E'pa_ee_, + no t'Era_ee_. + + Hot, _or sultry air, it is very hot_, Poh_ee_'a. + A House, E'farre, s. Ewharre. + A House _of office_, Eha'm_oo_te. + _A large_ House, Efarre'pota. + A House _on props_, A'whatta. + _An industrious_ Housewife, Ma'h_ei_ne Am_au_'hattoi + How _do you, or how is it with you, Tehanooee. + Humorous, _droll, merry_, Fa,atta,'atta. + + Hunger, Poro'r_ee_, + s. Po_ee_'a. + + A Hut, _or house_, E'farre. + + I + + I,_ myself, first person singular_, W_ou_(1) M_ee_.(2) + _The lower_ Jaw, E'ta. + Idle, _or lazy_, T_ee_'py. + + Jealousy _in a woman_, Ta'b_oo_ne, s.Fatee + no, s. H_oo_'hy. + + Ignorance, _stupidity_, W_ee_a'ta. + Ill-natured, _cross_, _Oo_re, e'_ee_ore. + An Image _of a human figure_, E'tee. + Imps,_ the young imps,_ Teo'he. + Immature, _unripe, as unripe fruit_, Poo. + Immediately, _instantly_, To'hyto. + Immense, _very large_, Roea. + Incest, _or incestuous_, Ta'wytte. + Indigent, _poor, necessitous_, T_ee_,t_ee_. + Indolence, _laziness_, T_ee_'py. + Industry, _opposed to idleness_, Ta_ee_'a. + Inhospitable, _ungenerous_, P_ee_'p_ee_re. + To inform, E'whaee. + _A sort of_ Ink, _used to punctuate_, E'rah_oo_. + An inquisitive _tattling woman_, Maheine Opotai_ee_hu. + To interrogate, _or ask questions_, Faeete. + To invert, _or turn upside down_, E'h_oo_ra, tela'why. + An Islet, Mo'too. + The Itch, _an itching of any sort_, Myro. + To jump, _or leap_, Mah_ou_ta, s. Araire. + + K. + Keep _it to yourself_, V_ai_h_ee_'o. + The Kernel _of a cocoa-nut_, Emo't_ee_a. + To kick _with the foot_, Ta'h_ee_. + The Kidnies, F_oo_a'h_oo_a. + Killed, _dead_, Matte. + To kindle, _or light up_, Emaea. + A King, Eaer_ee_,da'h_ai_. + A King-fisher, _the bird to called_, E'r_oo_ro. + To kiss, E'ho_ee_. + Kite, _a boy's play-kite_, O'omo. + The Knee, E't_oo_r_ee_. + To kneel, T_oo_'t_oo_r_ee_. + A Knot, Ta'pona. + _A double_ Knot, Va'hod_oo_. + + _The female_ Knot _formed on the upper T_ee_bona. + part of the garment, and on one + side_, + + To know, _or understand_, _Ee_te. + The Knuckle, _or joint of the fingers_, T_ee_,p_oo_. + + L. + + To labour, _or work_, Ehea. + A Ladder, Era'a, s. E'ara. + + A Lagoon, Ewha'_ou_na, + s.Eae'onna. + + Lame, _cripple_, T_ei_'t_ei_. + A Lance, _or spear_, Taeo. + + Land _in general, a country_, Fe'n_oo_a, + s. Whe'n_oo_a. + + Language, _speech, words_, Pa'ra_ou_. + + Language, _used when dancing, Timoro'd_ee_, + te'Timoro'd_ee_. + + + + Largeness, _when applied to a country, Ara'h_ai_. + country,_&c. N_oo_e. + + To laugh, Atta. + Laziness, T_ee_'py. + Lean, _the lean of meat_, Aeo. + Lean,_slender, not fleshy_, T_oo_'h_ai_. + To leap, Ma'h_ou_ta, + s. A'rere. + + Leave _it behind, let it remain_, 'V_ai_heo. + To leave, E'wh_eeoo_. + The Leg, A'wy. + Legs, _my legs ache, or are tired_, A'h_oo_a. + A Liar, Taata,ha'warre. + + To lie _down, or along, to rest one's + self_, Ete'raha, + s. Te'p_oo_. + + To lift _a thing up_, Era'w_ai_. + _Day_ Light, Mara'marama. + Light, _or fire of the great people_ T_ou_t_oi_,papa. + Light, _or fire of the common people_, N_ee_ao,papa. + + Light, _to light or kindle the fire_, A't_oo_n_oo_ + t'E_ee_'wera. + + Light, _not heavy_, Ma'ma. + Lightning, _Oo_'waira. + The Lips, _Oo_t_oo_. + Little, _small_, _Ee_te. + A Lizard, 'Moeo. + Loathsome, _nauseous_, E,a'wawa. + _A sort of_ Lobster, _frequent in the isles_, T_ee_on_ai_. + To loll _about, or be lazy_, Tee'py. + To loll _out the tongue_, Ewha'tor_oo_ t'Arere. + To look _for a thing that is lost_, Tap_oo_n_ee_. + A Looking-glass, H_ee_o'_ee_'otta. + Loose, _not secure_, A_oo_'w_ee_wa. + A Looseness, _or purging_, Hawa,'hawa. + To love, Ehe'nar_oo_. + Lover, _courtier, wooer_, Eh_oo_'noea. + A Louse, _Oo_'t_oo_. + + Low, _not high, as low land_, &c. Hea,hea, s. Papoo. + E_ee_'oea. + + The Lungs, T_ee_too,'arapoa. + Lusty, _fat, full of flesh_, Oo'p_ee_a. + +M. + + Maggots, E'h_oo_h_oo_. + A Maid, _or young woman _, T_oo_'n_ee_a. + To make _the bed_, Ho'hora, te Moee'ya. + The Male _of any animal, male kind_, E'oeta. + A Man, Taeata, s. Taane. + _An indisposed or insincere_ Man, Taeata,ham'an_ee_no. + A Man-of-war _bird_, Otta'ha. + + Many, _a great number_, Wo'rou,wo'rou, + s. man_oo_, man_oo_. + + _A black_ Mark _on the skin_, E_ee_'r_ee_. + Married, _as a married man_, Fan_ou_'nou. + A Mat, E'vanne. + _A silky kind of_ Mat, Moee'a. + + _A rough sort of_ Mat, _cut in the P_oo_'rou. + middle to admit the head_, + + A Mast _of a ship or boat_, T_ee_ra. + Mature, _ripe; as ripe fruit_, Para, s. Pe. + Me, _I_, W_ou_, s. M_ee_. + A Measure, E'a. + To measure _a thing_, Fa'_ee_te. + To meet _one_, Ewharidde. + + To melt, _or dissolve a thing, T_oo_'t_oo_e. + as grease &c._ + + The middle, _or midst of a thing_, Teropoo. + Midnight, O't_oo_ra,h_ei_'po. + To mince, _or cut small_, E'p_oo_ta. + Mine, _it is mine, or belongs to me_, No'_oo_. + To miss, _not to hit a thing_, _Oo_'happa. + Mist, _or fog_, Ry'po_ee_a. + To mix _things together_, A'p_oo_e,'p_oo_e. + To mock _or scoff at one_, Etoo'h_ee_. + Modesty, Mamma'ha_oo_. + Moist, _wet_, Wara'r_ee_. + A Mole _upon the skin_, At_oo_'noea. + _A lunar_ Month, Mara'ma. + A Monument _to the dead_, Whatta'r_au_. + The Moon, Mara'ma. + The Morning, Oo'po_ee_'po_ee_. + To-morrow, Bo'bo, s. A,Bo'bo. + _The day after to_-morrow, A'bo'bo d_oo_ra. + _The second day after to_-morrow; Po_ee_,po_ee_,addoo. + A Moth, E,pepe. + A Mother, Ma'd_oo_a, wa'h_ei_ne. + A motherly, _or elderly woman_, Pa'tea. + Motion, _opposed to rest_, O_o_a'ta. + A Mountain, _or hill, Ma_oo_a, s. Mo_u_a. + Mountains _of the highest order_, Mo_u_a tei'tei. + Mountains _of the second order_, Mo_u_a 'haha. + Mountains _of the third or lowest + order_, Pere'ra_ou_. + Mourning, '_Ee_va. + + Mourning _leaves, viz. those of the Ta'pa_oo_. + cocoa-tree, used for that purpose_, + + The Mouth, Eva'ha. + _To open the_ Mouth, Ha'mamma. + A Multitude, _or vast number_, Wo'r_ou_, wo'r_ou_. + Murdered, _killed_, Matte, s. matte roea. + A Murderer, Taata toea. + A Muscle-shell, No_u,ou_. + Music _of any kind_, H_ee_va. + + A Musket, _pistol, or firearms P_oo_,p_oo_, s. Poo. + of any kind_, + + Mute, _silent_, Fateb_oo_a. + To matter, or _stammer_, E'wha_ou_. + +N. + + The Nail _of the fingers_, Aee'_oo_. + A Nail _of iron_, _E_ure. + + Naked, _i. e. with the clothes off, Ta'lurra. + undressed_, + + The Name _of a thing_, E_ee'oo_. + Narrow, _strait, not wide_, P_ee_re,p_ee_re. + Nasty, _dirty, not clean_, E,repo. + A Native, Taata'toob_oo_. + The Neck, A'_ee_. + Needles, Narreeda. + _A fishing_ Net, _Oo_'p_ai_a. + New, _young, sound_, Ho_u_. + Nigh, Poto, s. Whatta'ta. + Night, P_o_, s. E'a_oo_. + To-Night, _or to-day at night_, A'_oo_ne te' Po. + _Black_ Night-_shade_, Oporo. + Nine, A'_ee_va. + The Nipple _of the breast_, E'_oo_. + A Nit, Eriha. + + [1] Ay'ma, [2] Y_ai_ha, + No, _a negation_, [3]A'_ou_re, [4] A_ee_, + [5] Yeha_ee_a. + + To nod, A't_ouou_. + Noisy, _chattering, impertinent_, Emoo. + Noon, Wawa'tea. + The Nostrils, Popo'heo. + Numeration, _or counting of numbers_, Ta't_ou_. + _A cocoa_ Nut, Aree. + + _A large compressed_ Nut,_that tastes E_ee_h_ee_. + like chesnuts when roasted_, + + O. + + Obesity, _corpulence_, Ou'p_ee_a. + The Ocean, Ty, s. Meede. + Odoriferous, _sweet-smelled_, No'noea. + _Perfumed_ Oil _they put on the hair_, Mo'noee. + + An Ointment,_plaister, or any thing E'ra'pa_oo_. + that heals or relates to medicine_, + + Old, Ora'wheva. + One, A'tahai. + Open, _clear, spacious_, Ea'tea. + Open, _not shut_, Fe'r_ei_. + To open, Te'haddoo. + Opposite _to, or over against_, Wetoo'wh_ei_tte. + + Order, _in good order, regular, without Wara'wara. + confusion_, + + Ornament, _any ornament for the ear_, T_ooee_ ta'r_ee_a. + + _Burial_ Ornaments, _viz. nine noits Ma'ray Wharre. + stuck in the ground_, + + An Orphan, _Oo_'hoppe, + poo'_ai_a. + + Out, _not in, not within_, T_ei_we'ho. + The Outside _of a thing_, _Oo_a'p_ee_. + An Oven _in the ground_, E_oo_'m_oo_. + Over, _besides, more than the quantity_, Te'harra. + To overcome, _or conquer_, E'ma'_oo_ma. + To overturn, _or overset_, Eha'pa_oo_. + An Owner E'whattoo. + _A large species of_ Oyster, I't_ee_a. + _The large rough_ Oyster, _or Spondylus_, Paho'oea. + + P. + + The Paddle _of a canoe, or to paddle_, E'hoee. + To paddle _a canoe's head to the right_ What'tea. + To paddle _a canoe's head to the left_, Wemma. + Pain, _or soreness,the sense of pain_, Ma'my. + A Pair, _or two of any thing together_, Ano'ho. + The Palate, E'ta'nea. + The Palm _of the hand_, Ap_oo_'r_ee_ma. + To Pant, _or breathe quickly_, Oo'pou'pou,tea'ho. + Pap, _or child's food_, Mamma. + A Parent, Me'd_oo_a. + _A small blue_ Parroquet, E'v_ee_n_ee_. + + _A green_ Parroquet, _with a E'a'a. + red forehead_, + + The Part _below the tongue_, Eta'raro. + A Partition, _division, or screen_, Par_oo_'r_oo_. + A Pass, _or strait_, E,aree'ea. + + _A fermented_ Paste, _of bread, + fruit and others_, Ma'h_ee_. + + A Path, _or road_, Eae'ra. + The Pavement _before a house or hut_, Pye,pye. + A Pearl, Poee. + The Peduncle, _and stalk of a plant_, A'maea, s. E'atta. + + To peel _or take the skin off a + cocoa-nut_&c. A'tee, s. E'atee. + + Peeled, _it is peeled_, Me'at_ee_. + A Peg _to hang a bag on_, 'Pe'a_oo_. + + A Pepper-plant, _from the root of + which they prepare an inebriating + liquor_, Awa. + + Perhaps, _it may be so_, E'pa'ha. + Persons _of distinction_, Patoo'nehe. + A Petticoat _of plantane leaves_, AArou'm_aiee_a. + Petty, _small, trifling, opposed to Nooe_, R_ee_. + + _A_ Physician, _or person who + attends the sick_, Taata no E'rapa_oo_. + + Pick, _to pick or choose_, Eh_ee_ te _mai_ my ty. + _A large wood_ Pigeon, Er_oope_. + + _A large green and white_ Pigeon, O_o_'_oo_pa. + + _A small black and white_ Pigeon, + _with purple wings_, _Oooo_wy'deroo. + + A Pimple, H_oo_a'h_ou_a. + To Pinch _with, the fingers_, _Oo_ma. + A Plain, _or flat_, E'_pee_ho. + Plane, _smooth_, Pa'_ee_a. + A Plant _of any kind_, O'mo. + _A small_ Plant, E'rabo. + _The fruit of a_ Plantane-tree M_aiee_'a, s. Maya. + _Horse_ Plantanes, Fai'_ee_. + + Pleased, _good humoured, not cross or Mar_oo_. + surly_, + + Pluck _it up_, Ar_ee_te. + To pluck _hairs from the beard_, H_oo_h_oo_tee. + To plunge _a thing in the water_, E,_oo_'wh_ee_. + The Point _of any thing_, Oe,oee, or _Oi,oi_. + Poison, _bitter_, Awa,awa. + A Poll, _Oo_ra'h_oo_. + Poor, _indigent, not rich_, Tee'tee. + _A bottle-nosed_ Porpoise, E'_ou_a. + _Sweet_ Potatoes, Oo'marra. + To pour _out any liquid substance_, Ma'n_ee_. + Pregnant _with young_, Waha'p_oo_. + + To press, _or squeeze the legs gently + with the hand, when tired or pained_, Roro'm_ee_. + + Prick, _to prick up the ears_, Eoma te ta'r_ee_. + A Priest, Ta'h_ou_a. + Prone, _or face downwards_, T_ee_'opa. + _A sort of_ Pudding, _made of fruits, + oil_, &c. Po'po'_ee_. + + Pumpkins, A'h_ooa_. + To puke, _or vomit_, E'awa, s. e'r_oo_'y. + Pure, _clear_, E'_oo'ee_. + A Purging, _or looseness_, Hawa,hawa. + + To pursue, _and catch a person who Er_oo_,Er_oo_, + has done some mischief_, s. Eha'r_oe_. + + To push _a thing with the hand_, T_oo_'ra_ee_. + Put _it up, or away_, Orno. + + Q. + + Quickness, _briskness_, E'tirre. + _To walk_ quickly, Harre'n_ei_na. + + Quietness, _silence, a silent or seemingly + thoughtful person_, Falle'b_oo_a. + + A Quiver _for holding arrows_, 'P_ee_ha. + + R. + + _A small black_ Rail, _with red eyes_, M_ai_'ho. + + _A small black_ Rail, _spotted and + buured with white_, P_oo_a'n_ee_. + + Rain, E'_oo_a. + A Rainbow, E'n_oo_a. + Raft, _a raft of bamboo_, M_ai_to'e. + Rank,_ strong, urinous_, Ewao wao. + A Rasp, _or file_, _Ooee_. + A Rat, 'Yore, s. Eyore. + + Raw _meat, flesh that is not dressed E'otta. + cooked_, + + Raw _fruit, as plantanes, &c. that are Paroure. + not baked_ + + To recline, _or lean upon a thing_, E'py. + + Red _colour_, _Oo_ra,_oo_ra, + s. Matde. + + To reef _a sail_, Epo'uie te rya. + A Refusal, Eh_oo_'nooa. + The Remainder _of any thing_, T,'Ewahei. + To rend, _burst, or split_, M_oo_'m_oo_m_oo_. + Rent, _cracked, or torn_, E'wha. + To reside, _live or dwell_, E'noho. + Respiration, _breathing_, T_oo_e,t_oo_e. + A Rib, Awaeo. + + Rich, _not poor, having plenty of Epo'too. + goods, &c._ + + A Ring, 'M_ai_no. + + The Ringworm, _a disease so called_, E'n_oo_a. + Ripe, _as ripe fruit, &c_. Para, s. Pai, s. Ooo + p_ai_. + + Rise, _to rise up_, A'too. + To rive, _or split_, Ewha_oo'_ wha_oo_. + A Road, _or path_, Eae'ra. + Roasted, _or broiled_, _Oo_a'w_ai_ra. + A Robber, _or thief_, E_ee_'a (taata.) + A Rock, Pa_oo_. + _A reef of_ Rocks, E'a_ou_. + Rolling, _the rolling of a ship_, T_oo_'r_oo_re. + A Root, Ap_oo_, s. Ea. + A Rope _of any kind_, Taura. + Rotten, _as rotten fruit, &c_. R_oo_pe. + Rough, _not smooth_, Ta'rra, tarra. + To row _with oars_, E'_oo_me, s, E'hoee. + + To rub _a thing, as in washing the hands Ho'ro_ee_. + and face_, + + The Rudder _of a boat, or steering Hoee,fa'herre. + paddle of a canoe_, + + Running _backwards and forwards, Oo'atapone. + endeavouring to escape_, + + S. + + The Sail _of a ship or boat_, E_ee_'_ai_. + To sail, _or to be under sail_, E'whano. + Salt, _or salt water_, Ty'ty, s. Meede. + Sand, _dust_, E'one. + Saturn, Whati'hea. + Saunders's _island_, Tab_oo_a, Manoo. + A Saw, E_ee'oo_. + A Scab, E'tona. + _A fish's_ Scale _or scales_, Poea. + + _A pair of_ Scissars, O't_oo_bo, + s. O'tob_oo_. + + A Scoop, _to empty water from a canoe_, E'tata. + To scrape _a thing_, _Oo_'a_oo_. + To scratch _with the fingers_, Era'ra_oo_. + Scratched, _a scratched metal_, &c. Pah_oo_re'h_oo_re. + The Sea-cat, _a fish so called_, P_oo_he. + The Sea, Ta_ee_, s. M_ee_de. + A Sea-egg, He'awy. + A Seam _between two planks_, Fatoo'wh_ai_ra. + To search _for a thing that is lost_, Ooe,s.Pae'm_ee_. + A Seat, Papa. + + Secret, _a secret whispering, or slandering + another_, Ohe'm_oo_. + + The Seed _of a plant,_ H_oo_a't_oo_t_oo_, + s. Ehooero + + The sense _of seeing_, E'h_ee_'o. + To send, Eho'poee. + A Sepulchre, _or burying-place_, Ma'ray. + A Servant, T_ow_t_ow_. + Seven, A'H_ee_t_oo_. + To sew, _or string_, E't_oo_e. + Seyne, _to haul a seyne_, Etoroo te p_ai_a. + Shady, Mar_oo_,maroo. + To shake, _or agitate a thing_, E_oo_a'wai. + A Shark, Maeo. + Sharp, _not blunt_, Ooe'ee. + + To shave, _or take off the beard_, Eva'r_oo_, + s.Whanne, whanne. + + _A small_ Shell, Ot'eo. + _A tyger_ Shell, Pore'h_oo_. + Shew _it me_, Enara. + A Ship, P_a_hee. + Shipwreck, Ara'wha. + _A white_ Shirt, Par_oo_'y. + To shiver _with cold_, A'tete. + _Mud_ Shoes, _or fishing shoes_, Tama. + The Shore, Euta. + Short, Po'potoo. + + Shut, _not open_, Opa'n_ee_, + s. Poo'peepe. + + Sickness, Matte my Mamy. + _The left_ Side, A'r_oo_de. + The Side, E'reea'wo. + _The right_ Side, Atou,a'taou. + Sighing, Fa'ea. + Silence, Fatte'b_oo_a. + Similar, _or alike_, _Oo_whyae'da. + To sink, A'tomo. + A Sister, T_oo_'h_ei_ne. + To sit _down_, A'noho. + To sit _cross-legged_, T_ee_'py. + Six, A'Hon_oo_. + A Skate-fish, E'wha_ee_. + The Skin, _Ee_'ree. + The Sky, E'ra_ee_. + To sleep, Moee. + _The long_ Sleep, _or death_, Moee roea. + To sleep, _when sitting_, T_oo_'roore,moee. + A Sling, E'ma. + Slow, Marra,marroea,s.Fate. + Small, _little_, _Ee_te. + + _The sense of_ smelling, Fata't_oo_, + s._Oo_too,too,too. + + Smell _it_, H_oi_na. + To smell, Ahe'_oi_. + Smoke, E'_oo_ra. + Smooth, Pa'ya. + + Smutting _the face with charcoal for + funeral ceremonies_, Bap'para. + + _A sea_ Snake, _that has alternate + rings of a white and black colour_, P_oo_h_ee_'ar_oo_. + + To snatch _a thing hastily_, E'h_ai_r_oo_. + Sneezing, Mach_ee_'_ai_. + + Snipe, _a bird resembling a snipe, of + a black and brown colour_, T_ee_'t_ee_. + + Snot 'H_oo_pe. + Soberness, _sobriety, sober, not given_ T_ei_r_ei_da. + _to drunkenness_, + + To soften, Epar_oo_'par_oo_. + Softness, _that is, not hard_, Maroo. + The Sole _of the foot_, Tap_oo_'y. + A Son My'de. + A Son-in-law, H_oo_'noea. + A Song, Heeva. + A Sore, _or ulcer_, O'pai. + Soreness, _or pain_, Ma'may. + Sound, _any sound that strikes the ear_, Pa'_ee_na. + A Span, Ewhaee ono. + To speak, Paraou. + + Speak; _he speaks not from the heart, Neeate _oo_t_oo_ te parou + his words are only on his lips_, no nona. + + A Spear, _or lance_, Taeo. + To spill, Emare. + To spit, Too't_oo_a. + + _To_ spread, _or to expand a thing, as_ Ho'hora. + _cloth, &c_. + + To squeeze, _or press hard_, Ne,'ne_ee_. + To squeeze, _or press gently with the hand_, Roro'm_ee_. + Squint-eyed, Matta'areva. + _A fighting_ Stage _in a boat_, E't_oo_t_ee_. + + To stamp _with the feet, to trample on Tata'hy. + a thing_, + + Stand _up_, Atearenona. + A Star, E'f_ai_too, s. Hwettoo. + A Star-fish, Eve'r_ee_. + To startle, _as when one dreams_ Wa'hee, te'dirre. + Stay, _or wait a little_, A'r_ee_a, s. Ar_ee_'ana. + To steal, 'Woreedo. + Steep, _as steep rocks, or cliffs_, Mato. + _A walking_ Stick, 'Tame. + + Stinking, _ill-smelled, as stinking water,&c_. Na'm_oo_a, + s. N_ee_'n_ee_o. + + Stink, _to stink or smell ill_, F_ou_, f_ou_. + To stink, _as excrement_, P_ee_ro,p_ee_ro. + The Stomach, 'Para_ee_'a. + A Stone, Owhay. + _A polished_ Stone, used to beat victuals P_ai_'noo. + into a paste_, + + Stones, _upright stones which stand on + the paved area before huts_, T_oo_'t_oo_re. + + _A small_ Stool, _to lay the head + on when asleep_, Papa, s. Papa, r_oo_ae. + + Stool, _to go to stool_, T_ee_t_ee_'o. + To stop, A'too. + The Stopper _of a quiver_, Ponau. + A Storm _of wind, rain, thunder_, &c. Tarooa. + Strait, _narrow, not wide_, P_ee_re,peere. + Striking, _hollow striking in dancing_, Ap_ee_. + The String _of a quiver_, E'aha. + Strong, _as a strong man_, _O'o_mara. + Struck, A'b_oo_l_a_. + Stupidity, _ignorance_, W_ee_a'l_a_. + To suck _as a child_, Ote,ote. + Sugar _cane_, E'To, s. Toeo. + Suicide, Euha'a_ou_. + Sultry, _or hot air_, Poh_ee_a. + The Sun, Mahanna, s. Era. + _The meridian_ Sun, T_ei_'n_ee_a te Mahanna. + Supine, _lying_, Fateeraha. + Surf _of the sea_, Horo'w_ai_. + + _An interjection of_ Surprise, + _or admiration_, Allaheuee'_ai_. + + To surround, A'b_oo_ne. + To swallow, Horo'm_ee_. + The Sweat _of the body, or to sweat_ E'h_ou_, s. Eh_ou_ h_ou_. + A sweet _taste_, Mona. + Swell _of the sea_, E'r_oo_. + + T. + + A Tail, Ero. + A Tail _of a bird_, E'hoppe. + To take _a friend by the hand_, Etoo'ya_oo_. + To take _off, or unloose_, Eve'vette. + To take _care of the victuals_, Ewhaapoo te maa. + To talk, _or converse_, Paraou. + _The sense of_ tasting, Tama'ta. + A Tetotum, _or whirligig_, E'piroea. + To tear _a thing_, Ha'hy, s. Whatte. + A Teat, _or dug_, E'_oo_. + The Teeth, E'n_ee_h_ee_o. + Ten A'h_oo_r_oo_. + To tend, _or feed hogs_, Ew_h_a_ee_ te Boea. + Tenants, Af_eu_'h_au_. + _A black_ Tern, _with a whitish head_, O_ee_'o. + There, Te'raee. + They, _them, or theirs_, To'ta_oo_a. + Thickness, _applied to solid bodies_, Meoo'meoo. + Thick, _as thick cloth_, &c. T_oo_e'too'e. + Thick, _muddy_, Ewore'r_oo_,s.Eworepe. + Thine, _it is yours, or belongs to you_, No oee. + Thirst, W'ah_ee_'y. + Thoughts, Para_ou_, no te o'p_oo_. + _An appearance of_ thoughtfulness, Fate'b_oo_a. + Three, Tor_oo_. + The Throat, Ara'poa. + To throw, _or heave a thing_, Taora. + To throw _a thing away_, Harre'wai. + To throw _a ball_, Ama'h_oo_a. + To throw _a lance_, Evara'towha. + Throw, _shall I throw it_, Taure'a'a. + Throwing _in dancing_, Hoe'aire. + The Thumb, E'r_ee_ma,erahai. + Thunder, Pa't_ee_re. + Tickle, _to tickle a person_, My'n_ee_na. + A Tide, _or current_, A'ow. + To tie _a knot_, Ty. + + Time, _a space of time, from 6 to 10 + at night_, O't_oo_e, teepo. + + Time, _a little time, a small space_, Popo'_eu_n_oo_. + Time, _a long time, a great while_, Ta'moo. + A Title _belonging to a woman of rank_, E'tapay'r_oo_. + A Toe _of the foot_, Man_ee_o. + A Tomb, T_oo_,pap'pou. + The Tongue, E'rero. + A Tortoise, E'hon_oo_. + Touching, Fa'fa. + Tough, _as tough meat_, &c. Ah_oo_'_ou_e. + A Town, E'farre p_oo_to p_oo_t_oo_. + To trample _with the foot_, Tata'he, s. Ta'ta'hy. + A Tree, E'raeo. + + A Tree, _from which they make clubs, Toea (Eraeo.) + spears_, &c. + + To tremble, _or shudder with cold_, _Oo_a'titte, s. Eta. + Trembling, _shaking_, A_ou_'dou. + To trip _one up in wrestling_, Me'haee. + A Tropic-bird, Man_oo_'roa. + Truth, Eva_ee_'roea,s.Para_ou_,mou. + To tumble, P_ou_ta'heite. + A Turban, E'taee. + To turn, _or turned_, _Oo_'ahoee. + + To turn, _as in walking backwards and + forwards_, H_oo_d_ee_p_ee_pe. + + Twins, _twin children_, Ma'hea. + To twist _a rope_, Taw_ee_'r_ee_. + Two, E'Rooae. + + U. + + An Ulcer, _or sore_, O'p_ai_. + Under, _below, low down_, Oraro. + Under _sail_, P_ou_'pou_ee_. + To understand, Ee'te. + To undress, _or take off the clothes_, Ta'turra. + An unmarried _person_, Ar_ee_'_oi_. + Unripe, _as unripe fruit_,&c. P_oo_. + + V. + + _Luminous_ Vapour, Epao. + Vassal, _or subject_, Manna'h_ou_na. + Vast, Ara,hai,s.Mai,ara'hai. + The Veins _that run under the skin_, E'w_ou_a. + Venus, T_ou_'r_oo_a. + + Vessel, _any hollow vessel, as cups of + nuts_,&c. _Ai_'boo. + + Vessel, _a hollow vessel in which they + prepare an inebriating liquor_, _Oo_'mutte. + + To vomit, Er_oo_'y. + + W. + + Wad, _tow, fibres like hemp_, Ta'm_ou_. + Wait, _stay a little_, Areeana. + Wake, _awake_, Arra arra, s. Era. + To walk out, Avou'_oi_a. + To walk _backwards and forwards_, H_oo_a p_ee_pe. + A Warrior, _soldier, or rather a man-killer_, Taatatoea. + Warmth, _heat_, Mahanna,hanna. + A Wart, Toria. + To wash, _as to wash cloth in water_, Mare. + To watch, Eteaee. + Water, A'vy. + Water-cresses, Pa'toea. + We, _both of us_, Ta_oo_a, s. Ar_oo_'r_oo_a. + A wedge, Era'h_ei_. + To weep, _or cry_, Hanoe a,a,ta_ee_. + Well _recovered, or well escaped_, Woura, s. woo,ara. + Well, _it is well, charming, fine_, P_oo_ro'too. + + What, _whats that_, E'hara, E'ha'rya,s. + Ye'ha_ee_a, expressed + inquisitively. + + What _do you call that, what is the + name of it_, Owy te a_ee_'_oa_. + + When, _at what time_, W'heea. + Where _is it_, Te'hea. + + Whet, _to whet or sharp a thing_, Evo_ee_. + To whistle, Ma'p_oo_. + + Whistling, _a method of whistling to + call the people to meals_, Ep_ou_,maa. + + To whisper _secretly, as in backbiting_, &c. Ohe'm_oo_. + + Who _is that, what is he called_, Owy,tanna, s. + Owy,nana. + + Whole, _the whole not a part of a thing_, E'ta,e'tea, s. A'ma_oo_. + Wide, _not strait or narrow_, Whatta,whatta. + A Widow, Wa't_oo_neea. + Wife, _my wife_, Ma'h_ei_ne. + The Wind, Mattay. + _The south-east_ Wind, Mattaee. + A Window, Ma'laee ou'panee. + The Wing _of a bird_, Ere'_ou_. + To wink, E'am_ou_,am_oo_. + To wipe _a thing clean_, Ho'ro_ee_. + Wish, _a wish to one who sneezes_, Eva'r_ou_a t Eaet_oo_a. + Within _side_, T_ee_'ro to. + A Woman, Wa'h_ei_ne. + _A married_ Woman, Wa'h_ei_ne mou. + + Woman, _she is a married woman, she + has got another husband_, Terra,tanne. + + Won't _I won't do it_, 'A_eeoo_, expressed + angrily. + + Wood _of any kind_, E'raoe. + A Wound, Oo't_ee_. + A Wrestler, M_ou_na. + Wrinkled _in the face_, M_ee_o, m_ee_o. + The Wrist, Mo'moea. + A Wry-neck, Na'na. + + Y. + + To yawn, Ha'mamma. + Yellow _colour_, He'appa. + Yes, Ay, s. _ai_. + Yesterday, Ninna'hay. + Yesternight, Ere'po. + York _island_, Ei'meo. + Yon Oe. + young,_as a young animal of any kind_, P_ee_'n_ai_a. + + [21] A Table exhibiting at one View, Specimens of different + languages spoken in the South-Sea, from Easter Island, + Westward to New Caledonia, as observed in the Voyage. + + English. Otaheite. Easter Island. + The Marquesas Isles. The Island of Amsterdam. New Zealand. + Malicolo. Tanna. New Caledonia + + A Bird, 'Man_oo_,[22] 'Man_oo_, + 'Manu_oo_, + Man_oo_, Manee, s. Man_eek_. + + A Bow E'fanna, + 'Fanna, + Nabrr_oo_s, Na'fanga. + + Bread-fruit _Oo_r_oo_, + Mai_ee_, + Ba'rabe, Tag'_oo_r_oo_. + + A canoe E'vaea 'Wagga, + Ev'aea, Ta'wagga, + Wang. + + Cloth Ah_oo_, 'Ah_oo_, + 'Ah_oo_, s. A'hoo_ee_a, Babba'langa,Kak'ah_oo_, + Ta'nar_ee_, Hamban. + + A Cocoa-nut 'Ar_ee_, + 'Eeoo, + Nar_oo_, Nab_oo_'y, 'N_eeoo_. + + To drink Ayn_oo_' A_ee_n_oo_, + 'A_ee_n_oo_, + No'a_ee_, N_ooee_, 'Oo_d_oo_, s. _Oo_nd_oo_. + + The Eye Matta, Matta, + 'Matta, s. Matta_ee_a, 'Matta, 'Matta, + M_ai_tang, Nan_ee_'maiuk, T_ee_'vein. + + The Ear Ta'r_ee_a, Ta'r_ee_an, + B_oo_'_ee_na, Ta'r_ee_ka, + Talingan, F_ee_n_ee_'enguk, Gain'_ee_ng. + + Fish 'Eya, _Ee_ka, + '_Ee_ka, '_Ee_ka, + 'Nam_oo_. + + A Fowl, Moea, Moea, + Moea, + Moe'r_oo_. + + The Hand, E'r_ee_ma, 'R_ee_ma, + E_oo_'my, E'r_ee_ma, 'R_ee_nga, + Badon'h_ee_n. + + The Head, _Oo_'po, Aoe'po, + Tak'_oo_po, + Ba's_ai_ne, N_oo_gwa'n_aium, Gar'moing. + + A Hog, 'Boea, + 'B_oo_a, B_oo_'acka, + 'Brr_oo_as, 'B_oo_ga, s. 'B_oo_gas. + + I,myself, W_ou_, s. _ou_, + 'W_ou_, _Ou_. + + To laugh, 'Atta, + Katta, + 'Haearish, Ap, s.Gye'ap. + + A Man, 'Taeata, Papa? + T_ee_to, + Ba'rang, Nar_oo_'maean. + + The Navel, 'P_ee_to, + P_ee_to, s. P_ee_to'ai, P_ee_to, + Nomprtong, Nap_ee_ rainguk, Whanb_oo_ _ee_n. + + No, (1)'Ayma,(2)Y_ai_ha,(3)A'_ou_re,'_Ei_sa, + '_Ee_sha, Ka'_ou_re, + Ta'ep, E'sa, '_Ee_va, _Ee_ba. + + Plantains, 'M_ai_ya, (1)Maya, (2)F_oo_tse, + M_ai_e_ea_, 'F_oo_dje, + Nabrruts. + + Puncturation, Ta't_ou_, + E'pat_oo_, Ta't_ou_, Moko, + 'Gan, s. Gan,galang. + + Rain, E'_oo_a, '_Oo_a, + + Na'mawar, _Oo_e. + + Sugar cane, E'To, To, + + Na'r_oo_k. + + The Teeth, E'n_ee_h_ee_o, 'N_ee_ho, + E'n_ee_ho, 'N_ee_fo, N_ee_ho, + R_ee_'bohn, 'Warrewuk, s. 'R_ai_buk, Penna'w_ei_n. + + Water, A'vay, E'vy, + + Er'g_ou_r, _Oo_e. + + To Whistle, 'Map_oo_, + F_ee_o,f_ee_o, + Papang, Awe'bern, 'Wy_oo_. + + A Woman, Wa'h_ei_ne, + Ve'h_ee_ne, + Ra'bin, N_ai_'braean, Tama. + + Yams, E'_oo_he, _Oo_he, + _Oo_fe, + Nan-'ram, _Oo_fe, _Oo_be. + + Yes, _Ai_, + '_Ee_o, + _Ai_, '_Ee_o, 'Elo, s. _Ee_o, + s. oee. + + You, Oe, + Oe. + + + + One, A'Tahay, Katta'ha_ee_, + Atta'ha_ee_, Ta'ha_ee_, + + Ts_ee_'ka_ee_, R_ee_d_ee_, Wag_ee'ai_ng. + + Two, E'R_oo_a, 'Rooa, + A'ooa, E'ooa, + E'ry, 'Karoo, 'Waroo. + + Three, 'Ter_oo_, 'Tor_oo_, + A'tor_oo_, 'Tor_oo_, + E'r_ei_, 'Kahar, Wat_ee_ en. + + Four, A'Haa, 'Haea, s. Faea, + A'faa, A'faea, + E'bats, 'K_ai_phar, Wam'ba_ee_k. + + Five, E'R_ee_ma, 'R_ee_ma, + A'_ee_ma, 'N_ee_ma, + E'r_ee_m, 'Kr_ee_rum, Wannim. + + Six, A'ono, 'Hon_oo_, + A'ono, + Ts_oo_'ka_ee_, Ma'r_ee_d_ee_, Wannim-g_ee_ek. + + Seven, A'H_ei_too, 'H_ee_d_oo_, + A'wh_ee_t_oo_, + G_oo_y, Ma'kar_oo_, Wannim'n_oo_. + + Eight, A'war_oo_, 'Var_oo_, + A'wa_oo_, + H_oo_rey, Ma'kahar, Wannim'g_ai_n. + + Nine, A'_ee_va, H_ee_va, + A'_ee_va, + G_oo_dbats, Ma'k_ai_phar, Wannim'ba_ee_k. + + Ten, A'h_oo_r_oo_, Atta'h_oo_r_oo_, + s. Anna'h_oo_r_oo_, + Wannah_oo_, s. Wanna'h_oo_e, + Senearr, Ma'kr_ee_rum, Wann_oo_'n_ai_uk. + +[Footnote 21: It may be easily perceived, that notwithstanding some +words are entirely different, the first five Indian languages are +radically the same; though the distance from Easter Island to New +Zealand is upwards of fifteen hundred leagues. The principal difference +consists in the mode of pronunciation, which in Easter Island, +Amsterdam, and New Zealand, is more harsh, or guttural, than at the +Marquesas Isles, or Otaheite. The other three differ totally, not only +from the preceding, but from each other; which is more extraordinary +than the agreement of the others, as from Malicolo to Tanna you never +lose sight of land; nor is New Caledonia at a great distance from the +last place. In the language of Malicolo a great number of harsh labial +sounds prevail, very difficult to be represented in writing. At Tanna +the pronunciation is likewise harsh, but rather guttural, and the +inhabitants of New Caledonia have many nasal sounds, or snivel much in +speaking. It may however be observed, that in the three last languages, +some words are found which seem to have a distant resemblance to those +that go before; as Brr'_oo_as, in Malicolo, and 'B_oo_ga, or 'Boogas, in +Tanna, both signifying a hog, which at Otaheite and the Marquesas, is +expressed by the word 'Boea, and at Amsterdam B_oo_'acka. Yet, whether +these may not have been accidentally introduced, is hard to determine; +because they frequently use two words to express the same thing; as for +instance, in New Caledonia, they call a star both P_ee_j_oo_ and +Fya't_oo_; the first seems most consonant to the general composition of +their language, whereas the second differs very little from +E'f_ai_t_oo_, or Whet_oo_, the name of a star at Otaheite. When they +mention puncturation, it is commonly called a Gan, or Gan,galan; but +sometimes they say Tata'tou, which is almost the same as Ta't_ou_, used +to express the same thing at Otaheite and Amsterdam.] + +[Footnote 22: The letters in Italic, as _oo, ee_, &c. are to be sounded +as one. Those with this ", as oee, &c. are separately. The accent at the +beginning of a word, signifies the chief stress in pronunciation is to +be laid there; if over it at any other part, the stress is laid on that +part immediately following. A comma in the middle of a word, either +signifies, that it is compounded of two, or, that the same syllables +repeated, make the word; in both which cases, a small stop, or pause, +must be made in pronouncing it.] + + + + +PART III. BOOK III. + + +A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN, UNDERTAKEN BY THE COMMAND OF HIS MAJESTY, +FOR MAKING DISCOVERIES IN THE NORTHERN HEMISPHERE; TO DETERMINE THE +POSITION AND EXTENT OF THE WEST SIDE OF NORTH AMERICA, ITS DISTANCE FROM +ASIA, AND THE PRACTICABILITY OF A NORTHERN PASSAGE TO EUROPE. PERFORMED +UNDER THE DIRECTION OF CAPTAINS COOK, CLERKE, AND GORE, IN HIS MAJESTY'S +SHIPS THE RESOLUTION AND DISCOVERY, IN THE YEARS 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779, +& 1780.[23] + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +The spirit of discovery, which had long animated the European nations, +having, after its arduous and successful exertions, during the fifteenth +and sixteenth centuries, gradually subsided, and for a considerable time +lain dormant, began to revive in Great Britain in the late reign;[24] +and recovered all its former activity, under the cherishing influence, +and munificent encouragement, of his present majesty. + +[Footnote 23: The account of this voyage was originally published in +three volumes the first and second of which were written by Captain Cook +himself, and the third by Captain King, one of his officers. The work, +however, as the reader will soon find, is materially enriched by the +communications of Mr Anderson, surgeon of the Resolution. The valuable +introduction, and the notes interspersed throughout the volumes +contributed by Cook, were the production of Dr Douglas, Bishop of +Salisbury, who, at the request of Lord Sandwich, undertook also the +office of editor. Of the amount of his services in this character, we +have his own statement, towards the end of the introduction. From this, +it appears, that Cook, when he set out, knew he was expected to relate, +as well as to execute, the operations committed to him; and that his +journal, in consequence, was faithfully adhered to. This seems to imply +the non-interference of the editor, at least in any important sense. The +same thing may be inferred from what he says respecting Mr Anderson's +journal. And as to the third volume, we are expressly told, that it was +completely prepared for the press by Captain King himself. There is +surely, then, very little foundation for an assertion made in the memoir +of Captain Cook, inserted in the new edition of the General Biographical +Dictionary, vol. 10. viz. that Dr Douglas "has levelled down the more +striking peculiarities of the different writers, into some appearance of +equality." Certainly, we are bound either to refuse such an insinuation, +or to charge falsehood on Dr Douglas, who expressly states, that all he +has to answer for, are the notes in Captain Cook's two volumes and the +introduction. But the alternative will give no trouble to any reader +acquainted with the worthy character of the bishop, or who can +comprehend, how very readily a probable conjecture may became the basis +of an erroneous opinion. + +It is necessary to apprise the reader, that the letter D is placed at +such of Dr Douglas's notes as it is thought advisable to retain in this +work, and that for the rest marked E., the editor, as formerly, is +responsible.--E.] + +[Footnote 24: Two voyages for discovering a north-west passage, through +Hudson's Bay, were then performed; one under the command of Captain +Middleton, in his majesty's ships the Furnace, and the Discovery pink, +in 1741 and 1743. The other under the direction of Captains Smith and +Moore, in the ships Dobbs and California, fitted out by subscription, in +1746 and 1747.--D.] + + +Soon after his accession to the throne, having happily closed the +destructive operations of war, he turned his thoughts to enterprises +more humane, but not less brilliant, adapted to the season of returning +peace. While every liberal art, and useful study, flourished under his +patronage at home, his superintending care was extended to such branches +of knowledge, as required distant examination and enquiry; and his +ships, after bringing back victory and conquest from every quarter of +the known world, were now employed in opening friendly communications +with its hitherto unexplored recesses. + +In the prosecution of an object so worthy of the monarch of a great +commercial people, one voyage followed another in close succession; and, +we may add, in regular gradation. What Byron had begun, Wallis and +Carteret soon improved. Their success gave birth to a far more extensive +plan of discovery, carried into execution in two subsequent voyages, +conducted by Cook. And that nothing might be left unattempted, though +much had been already done, the same commander, whose professional skill +could only be equalled by the persevering diligence with which he had +exerted it, in the course of his former researches, was called upon, +once more, to resume, or rather to complete, the survey of the globe. +Accordingly, another voyage was undertaken, in 1776; which, though last +in the order of time, was far from being the least considerable, with +respect to the extent and importance of its objects; yet, still, far +less fortunate than any of the former, as those objects were not +accomplished, but at the expence of the valuable life of its conductor. + +When plans, calculated to be of general utility, are carried into +execution with partial views, and upon interested motives, it is natural +to attempt to confine, within some narrow circle, the advantages which +might have been derived to the world at large, by an unreserved +disclosure of all that had been effected. And, upon this principle, it +has too frequently been considered as sound policy, perhaps, in this +country, as well as amongst some of our neighbours, to affect to draw a +veil of secrecy over the result of enterprises to discover and explore +unknown quarters of the globe. It is to the honour of the present reign, +that more liberal views have been now adopted. Our late voyages, from +the very extensive objects proposed by them, could not but convey useful +information to every European nation; and, indeed, to every nation, +however remote, which cultivates commerce, and is acquainted with +navigation: And that information has most laudably been afforded. The +same enlarged and benevolent spirit, which ordered these several +expeditions to be undertaken, has also taken care that the result of +their various discoveries should be authentically recorded. And the +transactions of these voyages round the world, having, in due time, been +communicated, under the authority of his majesty's naval minister; those +of the present, which, besides revisiting many of the former discoveries +in the southern, carried its operations into untrodden paths in the +northern hemisphere, are, under the same sanction, now submitted to the +public in these volumes. + +One great plan of nautical investigation having been pursued throughout, +it is obvious, that the several voyages have a close connection, and +that an exact recollection of what had been aimed at, and effected, in +those that preceded, will throw considerable light on our period. With a +view, therefore, to assist the reader in forming a just estimate of the +additional information conveyed by this publication, it may not be +improper to lay before him a short, though comprehensive, abstract of +the principal objects that had been previously accomplished, arranged in +such a manner, as may serve to unite into one point of view, the various +articles which lie scattered through the voluminous journals already in +the hands of the public; those compiled by Dr Hawkesworth; and that +which was written by Captain Cook himself. By thus shewing what had been +formerly done, how much still remained for subsequent examination will +be more apparent; and it will be better understood on what grounds, +though the ships of his majesty had already circumnavigated the world +five different times, in the course of about ten years, another voyage +should still be thought expedient. + +There will be a farther use in giving such an abstract a place in this +introduction. The plan of discovery, carried on in so many successive +expeditions, being now, we may take upon us to say, in a great measure +completed, by summing up the final result, we shall be better able to do +justice to the benevolent purposes it was designed to answer; and a +solid foundation will be laid, on which we may build a satisfactory +answer to a question, sometimes asked by peevish refinement, and +ignorant malevolence, What beneficial consequences, if any, have +followed, or are likely to follow, to the discoverers, or to the +discovered, to the common interests of humanity, or to the increase of +useful knowledge, from all our boasted attempts to explore the distant +recesses of the globe? + +The general object of the several voyages round the world, undertaken by +the command of his majesty, prior to that related in this work, was to +search for unknown tracts of land that might exist within the bosom of +the immense expanse of ocean that occupies the whole southern +hemisphere. + +Within that space, so few researches had been made, before our time, and +those few researches had been made so imperfectly, that the result of +them, as communicated to the world in any narration, had rather served +to create uncertainty, than to convey information; to deceive the +credulous, rather than to satisfy the judicious enquirer; by blending +the true geography of above half the superficies of the earth with an +endless variety of plausible conjectures, suggested by ingenious +speculation; of idle tales, handed down by obscure tradition; or of bold +fictions, invented by deliberate falsehood. + +It would have been very unfortunate, indeed, if five different +circumnavigations of the globe, some of them, at least, if not all, in +tracks little known, and less frequented, had produced no discoveries, +to reward the difficulties and perils unavoidably encountered. But the +following review will furnish the most satisfactory proofs, that his +majesty's instructions have been executed with ability; and that the +repeated visits of his ships to the southern hemisphere, have very +considerably added to our stock of geographical knowledge. + +1. The south Atlantic ocean was the first scene of our operations. +Falkland's Islands had been hitherto barely known to exist; but their +true position and extent, and every circumstance which could render +their existence of any consequence, remained absolutely undecided, till +Byron visited them in 1764. And Captain Macbride, who followed him +thither two years after, having circumnavigated their coasts, and taken +a complete survey, a chart of Falkland's Islands has been constructed, +with so much accuracy, that the coasts of Great Britain itself, are not +more authentically laid down upon our maps. + +How little was really known of the islands in the south Atlantic, even +so late as the time of Lord Anson, we have the most remarkable proofs, +in the history of his voyage. Unavoidably led into mistake, by the +imperfect materials then in the possession of the world, he had +considered Pepys's Island, and Falkland Isles, as distinct places; +distant from each other about five degrees of latitude. Byron's +researches have rectified this capital error; and it is now decided, +beyond all contradiction, that, as Captain Cook says, "Future navigators +will mispend their time, if they look for Pepys's Island in latitude +47 deg.; it being now certain, that Pepys's Island is no other than these +islands of Falkland." + +Besides the determination of this considerable point, other lands, +situated in the South Atlantic, have been brought forward into view. If +the isle of Georgia had been formerly seen by La Roche in 1675, and by +Mr Guyot, in the ship Lion, in 1756, which seems to be probable, Captain +Cook, in 1775, has made us fully acquainted with its extent and true +position; and, in the same year, he added to the map of the world +Sandwich Land, hitherto not known to exist, and the most southern +discovery that has been ever accomplished. + +II. Though the Strait of Magalhaens had been formerly visited, and +sailed through by ships of different nations, before our time, a careful +examination of its bays, and harbours, and head-lands; of the numerous +islands it contains, and of the coasts, on both sides, that inclose it; +and an exact account of the tides, and currents, and soundings, +throughout its whole extent, was a task, which, if Sir John Narborough, +and others, had not totally omitted, they cannot be said to have +recorded so fully, as to preclude the utility of future investigation. +This task has been ably and effectually performed by Byron, Wallis, and +Carteret; whose transactions in this strait, and the chart of it, +founded on their observations and discoveries, are a most valuable +accession to geography. + +III. If the correct information, thus obtained, about every part of this +celebrated strait, should deter future adventurers from involving +themselves in the difficulties and embarrassments of a labyrinth, now +known to be so intricate, and the unavoidable source of danger and +delay, we have the satisfaction to have discovered, that a safer and +more expeditious entrance into the Pacific Ocean, may be reasonably +depended upon. The passage round Cape Horn has been repeatedly tried, +both from the east and from the west, and stript of its terrors. We +shall, for the future, be less discouraged by the labours and distresses +experienced by the squadrons of Lord Anson and Pizarro, when we +recollect that they were obliged to attempt the navigation of those seas +at an unfavourable season of the year; and that there was nothing very +formidable met with there when they were traversed by Captain Cook. + +To this distinguished navigator was reserved the honour of being the +first, who, from a series of the most satisfactory observations, +beginning at the west entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens, and carried +on with unwearied diligence, round Tierra del Fuego, through the Strait +of Le Maire, has constructed a chart of the southern extremity of +America, from which it will appear, how much former navigators must have +been at a loss to guide themselves; and what advantages will be now +enjoyed by those who shall hereafter sail round Cape Horn. + +IV. As the voyages of discovery, undertaken by his majesty's command, +have facilitated the access of ships into the Pacific Ocean, they have +also greatly enlarged our knowledge of its contents. + +Though the immense expanse usually distinguished by this appellation, +had been navigated by Europeans for near two centuries and a half, by +far the greater part of it, particularly to the south of the equator, +had remained, during all this time, unexplored. + +The great aim of Magalhaens, and of the Spaniards in general, its first +navigators, being merely to arrive, by this passage, at the Moluccas, +and the other Asiatic spice islands, every intermediate part of the +ocean that did not lie contiguous to their western track, which was on +the north side of the equator, of course escaped due examination. And if +Mendana and Quiros, and some nameless conductors of voyages before them, +by deviating from this track, and steering westward from Callao, within +the southern tropic, were so fortunate as to meet with various islands +there, and so sanguine as to consider those islands as marks of the +existence of a neighbouring southern continent, in the exploring of +which they flattered themselves they should rival the fame of De Gama +and Columbus, these feeble efforts never led to any effectual disclosure +of the supposed hidden mine of a New World. On the contrary, their +voyages being conducted without a judicious plan, and their discoveries +being left imperfect without immediate settlement, or subsequent +examination, and scarcely recorded in any well-authenticated or accurate +narrations, had been almost forgot; or were so obscurely remembered, as +only to serve the purpose of producing perplexing debates about their +situation and extent, if not to suggest doubts about their very +existence. + +It seems, indeed, to have become a very early object of policy in the +Spanish councils, to discontinue and to discourage any farther +researches in that quarter. Already masters of a larger empire on the +continent of America than they could conveniently govern, and of richer +mines of the precious metals on that continent than they could convert +into use, neither avarice nor ambition furnished reasons for aiming at a +fresh accession of dominions. And thus, though settled all along the +shores of this ocean, in a situation so commodious for prosecuting +discoveries throughout its wide extent, the Spaniards remained satisfied +with a coasting intercourse between their own ports; never stretching +across the vast gulph that separates that part of America from Asia, but +in an unvarying line of navigation, perhaps in a single annual ship, +between Acapulco and Manilla. + +The tracks of other European navigators of the South Pacific Ocean, +were, in a great measure, regulated by those of the Spaniards, and +consequently limited within the same narrow bounds. With the exception, +perhaps, of two instances only, those of Le Maire and Roggewein, no +ships of another nation had entered this sea, through the Strait of +Magalhaens, or found Cape Horn, but for the purposes of trade with the +Spaniards, or of hostility against them, purposes which could not be +answered, without precluding any probable chance of adding much to our +stock of discovery. For it was obviously incumbent on all such +adventurers, to confine their cruises within a moderate distance of the +Spanish settlements, in the vicinity of which alone they could hope to +exercise their commerce, or to execute their predatory and military +operations. Accordingly, soon after emerging from the strait, or +completing the circuit of Tierra del Fuego, they began to hold a +northerly course, to the uninhabited island of Juan Fernandez, their +usual spot of rendezvous and refreshment. And after ranging along the +continent of America, from Chili to California, they either reversed +their course back to the Atlantic, or, if they ventured to extend their +voyage by stretching over to Asia, they never thought of trying +experiments in the unfrequented and unexplored parts of the ocean, but +chose the beaten path (if the expression may be used,) within the limits +of which it was likely that they might meet with a Philippine galleon, +to make their voyage profitable to themselves; but could have little +prospect, if they had been desirous, of making it useful to the public, +by gaining any accession of new land to the map of the world. + +By the natural operation of these causes, it could not but happen, that +little progress should be made toward obtaining a full and accurate +knowledge of the South Pacific Ocean. Something, however, had been +attempted by the industrious, and once enterprising, Dutch, to whom we +are indebted for three voyages, undertaken for the purposes of +discovery; and whose researches, in the southern latitudes of this +ocean, are much better ascertained than are those of the earlier Spanish +navigators above mentioned. + +Le Maire and Schouten, in 1616, and Roggewein, in 1722, wisely judging +that nothing new could be gained by adhering to the usual passage on the +north side of the Line, traversed this ocean from Cape Horn to the East +Indies, crossing the south tropic, a space which had been so seldom, and +so ineffectually, visited; though popular belief, fortified by +philosophical speculation, expected there to reap the richest harvest of +discovery. + +Tasman, in 1642, in his extensive circuit from Batavia, through the +South Indian Ocean, entered the South Pacific, at its greatest distance +from the American side, where it never had been examined before. And his +range, continued from a high southern latitude, northward to New Guinea, +and the islands to the east of it near the equator, produced +intermediate discoveries, that have rendered his voyage memorable in the +annals of navigation. + +But still, upon the whole, what was effected in these three expeditions, +served only to shew how large a field was reserved for future and more +persevering examination. Their results had, indeed, enabled geographers +to diversify the vacant uniformity of former charts of this ocean by the +insertion of some new islands. But the number, and the extent of these +insertions, were so inconsiderable, that they may be said to appear + + + Rari, nantes in gurgite vasto. + + +And, if the discoveries were few, those few were made very imperfectly. +Some coasts were approached, but not landed upon; and passed without +waiting to examine their extent and connection with those that might +exist at no great distance. If others were landed upon, the visits were, +in general, so transient, that it was scarcely possible to build upon a +foundation so weakly laid, any information that could even gratify idle +curiosity, much less satisfy philosophical enquiry, or contribute +greatly to the safety, or to the success, of future navigation. + +Let us, however, do justice to these beginnings of discovery. To the +Dutch, we must, at least, ascribe the merit of being our harbingers, +though we afterward went beyond them in the road they had first ventured +to tread. And with what success his majesty's ships have, in their +repeated voyages, penetrated into the obscurest recesses of the South +Pacific Ocean, will appear from the following enumeration of their +various and very extensive operations, which have drawn up the veil +that had hitherto been thrown over the geography of so great a +proportion of the globe. + +1. The several lands, of which any account had been given, as seen by +any of the preceding navigators, Spanish or Dutch, have been carefully +looked for, and most of them (at least such of them as seemed of any +consequence) found out and visited; and not visited in a cursory manner, +but every means used to correct former mistakes, and to supply former +deficiencies, by making accurate enquiries ashore, and taking skilful +surveys of their coasts, by sailing round them, who has not heard, or +read, of the boasted _Tierra Australia del Espiritu Santo_ of Quiros? +But its bold pretensions to be a part of a southern continent, could not +stand Captain Cook's examination, who sailed round it, and assigned it +its true position and moderate bounds, in the Archipelago of the New +Hebrides.[25] + +[Footnote 25: Bougainville, in 1768, did no more than discover that the +land here was not connected, but composed of islands. Captain Cook, in +1774, explored the whole group.--D.] + +2. Besides perfecting many of the discoveries of their predecessors, our +late navigators have enriched geographical knowledge with a long +catalogue of their own. The Pacific Ocean, within the south tropic, +repeatedly traversed, in every direction, was found to swarm with a +seemingly endless profusion of habitable spots of land. Islands +scattered through the amazing space of near fourscore degrees of +longitude, separated at various distances, or grouped in numerous +clusters, have, at their approach, as it were, started into existence; +and such ample accounts have been brought home concerning them and their +inhabitants, as may serve every useful purpose of enquiry; and, to use +Captain Cook's words, who bore so considerable a share in those +discoveries, _have left little more to be done in that part_. + +3. Byron, Wallis, and Carteret had each of them contributed toward +increasing our knowledge of the islands that exist in the Pacific Ocean, +within the limits of the southern tropic; but how far that ocean reached +to the west, what lands bounded it on that side, and the connection of +those lands with the discoveries of former navigators, was still the +reproach of geographers, and remained absolutely unknown, till Captain +Cook, during his first voyage in 1770, brought back the most +satisfactory decision of this important question. With a wonderful +perseverance, and consummate skill, amidst an uncommon combination of +perplexities and dangers, he traced this coast near two thousand miles, +from the 38 deg. of south latitude, cross the tropic, to its northern +extremity, within 10 deg. 1/2 of the equinoctial, where it was found to join +the lands already explored by the Dutch, in several voyages from their +Asiatic settlements, and to which they have given the name of New +Holland. Those discoveries made in the last century, before Tasman's +voyage, had traced the north and the west coasts of this land; and +Captain Cook, by his extensive operations on its east side, left little +to be done toward completing the full circuit of it. Between Cape Hicks, +in latitude 38 deg., where his examination of this coast began, and that +part of Van Diemen's Land, from whence Tasman took his departure, was +not above fifty-five leagues. It was highly probable, therefore, that +they were connected; though Captain Cook cautiously says, that _he could +not determine whether_ his New South Wales, that is, the east coast of +New Holland, _joins to Van Diemen's Land, or no_. But what was thus left +undetermined by the operations of his first voyage, was, in the course +of his second, soon cleared up; Captain Furneaux, in the Adventure, +during his separation from the Resolution (a fortunate separation as it +thus turned out) in 1773, having explored Van Diemen's Land, from its +southern point, along the east coast, far beyond Tasman's station, and +on to the latitude 38 deg., where Captain Cook's examination of it in 1770 +had commenced. + +It is no longer, therefore, a doubt, that we have now a full knowledge +of the whole circumference of this vast body of land, this fifth part of +the world (if I may so speak), which our late voyages have discovered to +be of so amazing a magnitude, that, to use Captain Cook's words, _it is +of a larger extent than any other country in the known world, that does +not bear the name of a continent.[26] + +[Footnote 26: What the learned editor asserts here, as to the full +knowledge acquired by the voyages to which he alludes, must be +restricted, as Captain Flinders very properly remarks, to the general +extent of the vast region explored. It will not apply to the particular +formation of its coasts, for this plain reason, that the chart +accompanying the work, of which he was writing the introduction, +represents much of the south coast as totally unknown. It is necessary +to mention also, that what he says immediately before, in allusion to +the discoveries made by Captain Furaeaux, must submit to correction. +That officer committed some errors, owing, it would appear, to the +imperfection of preceding accounts; and he left undetermined the +interesting question as to the existence of a connection betwixt Van +Diemen's Land and New South Wales. The opinion which he gave as to this +point, on very insufficient _data_ certainly, viz. that there is "no +strait between them, but a very deep bay," has been most satisfactorily +disproved, by the discovery of the extensive passage which bears the +name of Flinders's friend, Mr Bass, the enterprising gentleman that +accomplished it.--E.] + +4. Tasman having entered the Pacific Ocean, after leaving Van Diemen's +Land, had fallen in with a coast to which he gave the name of New +Zealand. The extent of this coast, and its position in any direction but +a part of its west side, which he sailed along in his course northward, +being left absolutely unknown, it had been a favourite opinion amongst +geographers, since his time, that New Zealand was a part of a southern +continent, running north and south, from the 33 deg. to the 64 deg. of south +latitude, and its northern, coast stretching cross the South Pacific to +an immense distance, where its eastern boundary had been seen by Juan +Fernandez, half a century before. Captain Cook's voyage in the Endeavour +has totally destroyed this supposition. Though Tasman must still have +the credit of having first seen New Zealand, to Captain Cook solely +belongs that of having really explored it. He spent near six months upon +its coasts in 1769 and 1770, circumnavigated it completely, and +ascertained its extent and division into two islands. Repeated visits +since that have perfected this important discovery, which, though now +known to be no part of a southern continent, will probably, in all +future charts of the world, be distinguished as the largest islands that +exist in that part of the southern hemisphere. + +5. Whether New Holland did or did not join to New Guinea, was a question +involved in much doubt and uncertainty, before Captain Cook's sailing +between them, through Endeavour Strait, decided it. We will not hesitate +to call this an important acquisition to geography. For though the great +sagacity and extensive reading of Mr Dalrymple had discovered some +traces of such a passage having been found before, yet these traces were +so obscure, and so little known in the present age, that they had not +generally regulated the construction of our charts; the President de +Brosses, who wrote in 1756, and was well versed in geographical +researches, had not been able to satisfy himself about them; and Mons. +de Bougainville, in 1768, who had ventured to fall in with the south +coast of New Guinea, near ninety leagues to the westward of its +south-east point, chose rather to work those ninety leagues directly to +windward, at a time when his people were in such distress for provisions +as to eat the seal-skins from off the yards and rigging, than to run +the risk of finding a passage, of the existence of which he entertained +the strongest doubts, by persevering in his westerly course. Captain +Cook, therefore, in this part of his voyage (though he modestly +disclaims all merit), has established, beyond future controversy, a fact +of essential service to navigation, by opening, if not a new, at least +an unfrequented and forgotten communication between the South Pacific +and Indian Oceans.[27] + +[Footnote 27: We are indebted to Mr Dalrymple for the recovery of an +interesting document respecting a passage betwixt New Holland and New +Guinea, discovered by Torres, a Spanish navigator, in 1606. It was found +among the archives of Manilla, when that city was taken by the British, +in 1762, being a copy of a letter which Torres addressed to the king of +Spain, giving an account of his discoveries. The Spaniards, as usual, +had kept the matter a profound secret, so that the existence of the +strait was generally unknown, till the labours of Captain Cook, in 1770, +entitled him to the merit here assigned. Captain Flinders, it must be +remembered, is of opinion, that some suspicion of such a strait was +entertained in 1644, when Tasman sailed on his second voyage, but that +the Dutch, who were then engaged in making discoveries in these regions, +were ignorant of its having been passed. Several navigators have sailed +through Torres's Strait, as it has been justly enough named, since the +time of Cook, and have improved our acquaintance with its geography. Of +these may be mentioned Lieutenant (afterwards Rear-Admiral) Bligh, in +1789; Captain (afterwards Admiral) Edwards, in 1791; Bligh, a second +time, accompanied by Lieutenant Portlock, in 1792; Messrs Bampton and +Alt, in 1793; and Captain Flinders, in 1802-3. The labours of the +last-mentioned gentleman in this quarter surpass, in utility and +interest, those of his predecessors, and, if he had accomplished nothing +else, would entitle his name to be ranked amongst the benefactors of +geography. What mind is so insensible as not to regret, that after years +of hardship and captivity, the very day which presented the public with +the memorial of his services and sufferings, deprived him of the +possibility of reaping their reward?--E.] + +6. One more discovery, for which we are indebted to Captain Carteret, as +similar in some degree to that last mentioned, may properly succeed it, +in this enumeration. Dampier, in sailing round what was supposed to be +part of the coast of New Guinea, discovered it to belong to a separate +island, to which he gave the name of New Britain. But that the land +which he named New Britain should be subdivided again into two separate +large islands, with many smaller intervening, is a point of geographical +information, which, if ever traced by any of the earliest navigators of +the South Pacific, had not been handed down to the present age: And its +having been ascertained by Captain Carteret, deserves to be mentioned as +a discovery, in the strictest sense of the word; a discovery of the +utmost importance to navigation. St George's Channel, through which his +ship found a way, between New Britain and New Ireland, from the Pacific +into the Indian Ocean, to use the Captain's own words, "is a much better +and shorter passage, whether from the eastward or westward, than round +all the islands and lands to the northward."[28] + +[Footnote 28: The position of the Solomon Islands, Mendana's celebrated +discovery, will no longer remain a matter in debate amongst geographers, +Mr Dalrymple having, on the most satisfactory evidence, proved, that +they are the cluster of islands which comprises what has since been +called New Britain, New Ireland, &c. The great light thrown on that +cluster by Captain Carteret's discovery, is a strong confirmation of +this.--See Mr Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages, vol. i. p. 162-3.--D.] + +V. The voyages of Byron, Wallis, and Carteret, were principally confined +to a favourite object of discovery in the South Atlantic; and though +accessions to geography were procured by them in the South Pacific, they +could do but little toward giving the world a complete view of the +contents of that immense expanse of ocean, through which they only held +a direct track, on their way homeward by the East Indies. Cook, indeed, +who was appointed to the conduct of the succeeding voyage, had a more +accurate examination of the South Pacific entrusted to him. But as the +improvement of astronomy went hand in hand, in his instructions, with +that of geography, the Captain's solicitude to arrive at Otaheite time +enough to observe the _transit_ of Venus, put it out of his power to +deviate from his direct track, in search of unknown lands that might lie +to the south-east of that island. By this unavoidable attention to his +duty, a very considerable part of the South Pacific, and that part where +the richest mine of discovery was supposed to exist, remained unvisited +and unexplored, during that voyage in the Endeavour. To remedy this, and +to clear up a point, which, though many of the learned were confident +of, upon principles of speculative reasoning, and many of the unlearned +admitted, upon what they thought to be credible testimony, was still +held to be very problematical; if not absolutely groundless, by others +who were less sanguine or more incredulous; his majesty, always ready to +forward every enquiry that can add to the stock of interesting knowledge +in every branch, ordered another expedition to be undertaken. The signal +services performed by Captain Cook, during his first voyage, of which we +have given the outlines, marked him as the fittest person to finish an +examination which he had already so skilfully executed in part. +Accordingly, he was sent out in 1772, with two ships, the Resolution and +Adventure, upon the most enlarged plan of discovery known in the annals +of navigation. For he was instructed not only to circumnavigate the +globe, but to circumnavigate it in high southern latitudes, making such +traverses, from time to time, into every corner of the Pacific Ocean not +before examined, as might finally and effectually resolve the +much-agitated question about the existence of a southern continent, in +any part of the southern hemisphere accessible by navigation. + +The ample accessions to geography, by the discovery of many islands +within the tropic in the Pacific Ocean, in the course of this voyage, +which was carried on with singular perseverance, between three and four +years, have been already stated to the reader. But the general search +now made, throughout the whole southern hemisphere, as being the +principal object in view, hath been reserved for this separate article. +Here, indeed, we are not to take notice of lands that have been +discovered, but of seas sailed through, where lands had been supposed to +exist. In tracing the route of the Resolution and Adventure, throughout +the South Atlantic, the South Indian, and the South Pacific Oceans that +environ the globe, and combining it with the route of the Endeavour, we +receive what may be called ocular demonstration, that Captain Cook, in +his persevering researches, sailed over many an extensive continent, +which, though supposed to have been seen by former navigators, at the +approach of his ships, sunk into the bosom of the ocean, and, "like the +baseless fabric of a vision, left not a rack behind."[29] It has been +urged, that the existence of a southern continent is necessary to +preserve an _equilibrium_ between the two hemispheres. But however +plausible this theory may seem at first sight, experience has abundantly +detected its fallacy. In consequence of Captain Cook's voyage, now under +consideration, we have a thorough knowledge of the state of the southern +hemisphere, and can pronounce with certainty, that the _equilibrium_ of +the globe is effectually preserved, though the proportion of sea +actually sailed through, leaves no sufficient space for the +corresponding mass of land; which, on speculative arguments, had been +maintained to be necessary.[30] + +[Footnote 29: A very long note in the original is occupied by Mr Wales's +reply to the observations of Monsieur le Monier, in the memoirs of the +French Academy of Sciences for 1776, respecting what Captain Cook +alleged in the account of his second voyage, of the non-existence of +Cape Circumcision, said to have been discovered by Bouvet in 1738. As +the subject, though exceedingly well treated by Mr Wales, is in itself +of scarce any importance, and has long lost interest among scientific +enquirers, who rest perfectly content with Captain Cook's examination, +there appeared no inducement whatever to retain the note. The reader, it +is confidently presumed, will be satisfied with what was said of it in +the account of the former voyage.--E.] + +[Footnote 30: The judgment of the ingenious author of _Recherches sur +Americains_, on this question, seems to be very deserving of a place +here: "Qu'on calcule, comme on voudra, on sera toujours contraint +d'avouer, qu'il y a une plus grande portion de continent situee dans la +latitude septentrionale, que dans la latitude australe. + +"C'est fort mal a-propos, qu'on a soutenu que cette repartition inegale +ne sauroit exister, sous pretexte que le globe perdroit son equilibre, +faute d'un contrepoids suffisant au pole meridionale. Il est vrai qu'un +pied cube d'eau salee ne pese pas autant qu'un pied cube de terre; mais +on auroit du reflechir, qu'il peut y avoir sous l'ocean des lits & des +couches de matieres, dont la pesanteur specifique varie a l'infini, & +que le peu de profondeur d'une mer, versee sur une grande surface, +contrebalance les endroits ou il y a moins de mer, mais ou elle est plus +profonde."--_Recherches Philosophiques_, tom. ii, p. 375.--D. + +We offered some observations on this topic in the preceding volume, and +need scarcely resume it, as it cannot be imagined that any of our +readers still entertain the belief of the necessity for such an +equilibrium. The object in again alluding to it, is to call attention to +some observations of another kind, which Mr Jones has hazarded in one of +his Physiological Disquisitions. According to him, no such thing as a +southern counterpoise ought to have been expected, for it seems to be +the constitution of our globe, that land and water are contrasted to +each other on its opposite sides. "If," says he, "you bring the meridian +of the Cape of Good Hope under the brazen circle, or universal meridian +of a terrestrial globe, observing that this meridian passes through the +heart of the continents of Europe and Africa, you will find that the +opposite part of the meridian passes through the middle of the great, +south sea. When the middle of the northern continent of America, about +the meridian of Mexico, is examined in the same way, the opposite part +passes very exactly through the middle of the Indian ocean. The southern +continent of America is opposed by that eastern sea which contains the +East India islands. The southern continent of New Holland is opposite to +the Atlantic ocean. This alternation, if I may so call it, between the +land and sea, is too regular to have been casual; and if the face of the +earth was so laid out by design, it was for some good reason. But what +that reason may be, it will be difficult to shew. Perhaps this +disposition may be of service to keep up a proper balance; or, it may +assist toward the diurnal rotation of the earth, the free motions of the +tides, &c.; or the water on one side may give a freer passage to the +rays of the sun, and being convex and transparent, may concentrate, or +at least condense, the solar rays internally, for some benefit to the +land that lies on the other side."--This sort of reasoning, from our +ignorance, is no doubt liable to objection, and Mr Jones had good sense +and candour enough to admit, that the questions were too abstruse for +him to determine. The proper part, indeed, for man to act; is to +investigate what Nature has done, not to dogmatize as to the reasons for +her conduct--to ascertain facts, not to substitute conjectures in place +of them. But it is allowable for us, when we have done our best in +collecting and examining phenomena, to arrange them together according +to any plausible theory which our judgments can suggest. Still, however, +we ought to remember, that the most obviously imperative dictates of our +reasoning faculties are only inferences from present appearances, and +determine nothing as to the necessity of existing things.--E.] + +If former navigators have added more land to the known globe than +Captain Cook, to him, at least, was reserved the honour of being +foremost in disclosing to us the extent of sea that covers its surface. +His own summary view of the transactions of this voyage, will be a +proper conclusion to these remarks: "I had now made the circuit of the +southern ocean in a high latitude, and traversed it in such a manner as +to leave not the least room for there being a continent, unless near the +Pole, and out of the reach of navigation. By twice visiting the Tropical +Sea, I had not only settled the situation of some old discoveries, but +made there many new ones, and left, I conceive, very little to be done, +even in that part. Thus I flatter myself, that the intention of the +voyage has, in every respect, been fully answered; the southern +hemisphere sufficiently explored; and a final end put to the searching +after a southern continent, which has, at times, engrossed the attention +of some of the maritime powers for near two centuries past, and been a +favourite theory amongst the geographers of all ages."[31] + +[Footnote 31: Cook's second Voyage.] + +Thus far, therefore, the voyages to disclose new tracks of navigation, +and to reform old defects in geography, appear to have been prosecuted +with a satisfactory share of success. A perusal of the foregoing summary +of what had been done, will enable every one to judge what was still +wanting to complete the great plan of discovery. The southern hemisphere +had, indeed, been repeatedly visited, and its utmost accessible +extremities been surveyed. But much uncertainty, and, of course, great +variety of opinion, subsisted, as to the navigable extremities of our +own hemisphere; particularly as to the existence, or, at least, as to +the practicability of a northern passage between the Atlantic and +Pacific Oceans, either by sailing eastward, round Asia, or westward, +round North America. + +It was obvious, that if such a passage could be effected, voyages to +Japan and China, and, indeed, to the East Indies in general, would be +much shortened; and consequently become more profitable, than by making +the tedious circuit of the Cape of Good Hope. Accordingly, it became a +favourite object of the English to effectuate this, above two centuries +ago; and (to say nothing of Cabot's original attempt, in 1497, which +ended in the discovery of Newfoundland and the Labradore coast) from +Frobisher's first voyage to find a western passage, in 1576, to those of +James and of Fox, in 1631, repeated trials had been made by our +enterprising adventurers. But though farther knowledge of the northern +extent of America was obtained in the course of these voyages, by the +discovery of Hudson's and Baffin's Bays, the wished-for passage, on that +side, into the Pacific Ocean, was still unattained. Our countrymen, and +the Dutch, were equally unsuccessful, in various attempts, to find this +passage in an eastern direction. Wood's failure, in 1676, seems to have +closed the long list of unfortunate northern expeditions in that +century; and the discovery, if not absolutely despaired of, by having +been so often missed, ceased, for many years, to be sought for. + +Mr Dobbs, a warm advocate for the probability of a north-west passage +through Hudson's Bay, in our own time, once more recalled the attention +of this country to that undertaking; and, by his active zeal, and +persevering solicitation, renewed the spirit of discovery. But it was +renewed in vain. For Captain Middleton, sent out by government in 1741, +and Captains Smith and Moore, by a private society, in 1746, though +encouraged by an act of parliament passed in the preceding year, that +annexed a reward of twenty thousand pounds to the discovery of a +passage, returned from Hudson's Bay with reports of their proceedings, +that left the accomplishment of this favourite object at as great a +distance as ever. + +When researches of this kind, no longer left to the solicitation of an +individual, or to the subscriptions of private adventurers, became +cherished by the royal attention, in the present reign, and warmly +promoted by the minister at the head of the naval department, it was +impossible, while so much was done toward exploring the remotest corners +of the southern hemisphere, that the northern passage should not be +attempted. Accordingly, while Captain Cook was prosecuting his voyage +toward the South Pole in 1773, Lord Mulgrave sailed with two ships, _to +determine how far navigation was practicable toward the North Pole_. And +though his lordship met with the same insuperable bar to his progress +which former navigators had experienced, the hopes of opening a +communication between the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans by a northerly +course, were not abandoned; and a voyage for that purpose was ordered to +be undertaken.[32] + +[Footnote 32: Dr Douglas refers to the introduction to Lord Mulgrave's +Journal for a history of former attempts to sail toward the North Pole; +and to Barrington's Miscellanies for several instances of ships reaching +very high north latitudes.--E.] + +The operations proposed to be pursued were so new, so extensive, and so +various, that the skill and experience of Captain Cook, it was thought, +would be requisite to conduct them. Without being liable to any charge +of want of zeal for the public service, he might have passed the rest of +his days in the command to which he had been appointed in Greenwich +Hospital, there to enjoy the fame he had dearly earned in two +circumnavigations of the world. But he cheerfully relinquished this +honourable station at home; and, happy that the Earl of Sandwich had not +cast his eye upon any other commander, engaged in the conduct of the +expedition, the history of which is now given, an expedition that would +expose him to the toils and perils of a third circumnavigation, by a +track hitherto unattempted.[33] Every former navigator round the globe +had made his passage home to Europe by the Cape of Good Hope; the +arduous task was now assigned to Captain Cook of attempting it, by +reaching the high northern latitudes between Asia and America. So that +the usual plan of discovery was reversed; and, instead of a passage from +the Atlantic to the Pacific, one from the latter into the former was to +be tried. For it was wisely foreseen, that whatever openings or inlets +there might be on the east side of America, which lie in a direction +that could give any hopes of a passage, the ultimate success of it would +still depend upon there being an open sea between the west side of that +continent and the extremities of Asia. Captain Cook, therefore, was +ordered to proceed into the Pacific Ocean, through the chain of his new +islands in the southern tropic; and, having crossed the equator into its +northern parts, then to hold such a course as might probably fix many +interesting points in geography, and produce intermediate discoveries, +in his progress northward to the principal scene of his operations. + +[Footnote 33: It is due to history, and to the character of Cook, to +mention a circumstance respecting his appointment to this expedition, +which strikingly proves the high opinion entertained of his abilities +for it, and, at the same time, his zeal for the promotion of useful +discoveries, and the prosperity of his country. This is done from the +information of Lord Sandwich, as communicated in the memoir of Cook +inserted in the Biog. Brit. When the enterprise was determined on, it +became of extreme consequence to select a proper person to undertake the +execution of it. Captain Cook most naturally obtained this respect; and +at once, without the possibility of rivalship, would have been appointed +to the command, did not a conviction and feeling of sympathy for his +former sufferings and important services, restrain his warmest friends +from the slightest expression of what they unanimously desired. +Concealing, therefore, their opinion, and avoiding every thing of the +nature of solicitation, they, nevertheless, thought it advisable to +consult his well-informed judgment relative to the nature of the +undertaking, and the person most likely to perform it. For this purpose, +Captain Cook, Sir Hugh Palliser, and Mr Stephens, were invited to dine +with Lord Sandwich, when the whole affair was discussed. The +representation of its magnitude, and beneficial consequences, roused the +enthusiasm of the navigator; and starting up, he declared that he +himself would undertake its accomplishment. This magnanimous resolution +was joyfully received, and could not fail to produce the most sanguine +hopes of at least an honourable, if not a successful, issue. His +appointment was immediately made out; and it was agreed, that on +returning to England, he should have his situation at Greenwich +restored.--E.] + +But the plan of the voyage, and the various objects it embraced, will +best appear from the instructions under which Captain Cook sailed; and +the insertion of them here, will convey such authentic information as +may enable the reader to judge with precision how far they have been +carried into execution. + + * * * * * + +By the Commissioners for executing the Office of Lord High Admiral of +Great Britain and Ireland, &c. + +_Secret Instructions for Captain James Cook, Commander of his Majesty's +Sloop the Resolution_. + + +Whereas the Earl of Sandwich has signified to us his majesty's pleasure, +that an attempt should be made to find out a northern passage by sea +from the Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean; and whereas we have, in +pursuance thereof, caused his majesty's sloops Resolution and Discovery +to be fitted, in all respects, proper to proceed upon a voyage for the +purpose above-mentioned, and, from the experience we have had of your +abilities and good conduct in your late voyages, have thought fit to +entrust you with the conduct of the present intended voyage, and with +that view appointed you to command the first-mentioned sloop, and +directed Captain Clerke, who commands the other, to follow your orders +for his further proceedings. You are hereby required and directed to +proceed with the said two sloops directly to the Cape of Good Hope, +unless you shall judge it necessary to stop at Madeira, the Cape de Verd +or Canary Islands, to take in wine for the use of their companies; in +which case you are at liberty to do so, taking care to remain there no +longer than may be necessary for that purpose. + +On your arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, you are to refresh the sloops' +companies, and to cause the sloops to be supplied with as much +provisions and water as they can conveniently stow. + +You are, if possible, to leave the Cape of Good Hope by the end of +October, or the beginning of November next, and proceed to the +southward, in search of some islands said to have been lately seen by +the French, in the latitude 48 deg. 0' S., and about the meridian of +Mauritius. In case you find those islands, you are to examine them +thoroughly for a good harbour; and, upon discovering one, make the +necessary observations to facilitate the finding it again, as a good +port, in that situation, may hereafter prove very useful, although it +should afford little or nothing more than shelter, wood, and water. You +are not, however, to spend too much time in looking out for those +islands, or in the examination of them, if found, but proceed to +Otaheite, or the Society Isles, (touching at New Zealand in your way +thither, if you should judge it necessary and convenient,) and taking +care to arrive there time enough to admit of your giving the sloops' +companies the refreshment they may stand in need of, before you +prosecute the farther object of these instructions. + +Upon your arrival at Otaheite, or the Society Isles, you are to land +Omiah at such of them as he may choose, and to leave him there. + +You are to distribute among the chiefs of those islands such part of the +presents with which you have been supplied, as you shall judge proper, +reserving the remainder to distribute among the natives of the countries +you may discover in the northern hemisphere. And having refreshed the +people belonging to the sloops under your command, and taken on board +such wood and water as they may respectively stand in need of, you are +to leave those islands in the beginning of February, or sooner if you +shall judge it necessary, and then proceed in as direct a course as you +can to the coast of New Albion, endeavouring to fall in with it in the +latitude of 45 deg. 0' N.; and taking care, in your way thither, not to lose +any time in search of new lands, or to stop at any you may fall in with, +unless you find it necessary to recruit your wood and water. + +You are also, in your way thither, strictly enjoined not to touch upon +any part of the Spanish dominions on the western continent of America, +unless driven thither by some unavoidable accident; in which case you +are to stay no longer there than shall be absolutely necessary, and to +be very careful not to give any umbrage or offence to any of the +inhabitants or subjects of his catholic majesty. And if, in your farther +progress to the northward, as hereafter directed, you find any subjects +of any European prince or state upon any part of the coast you may think +proper to visit, you are not to disturb them, or give them any just +cause of offence, but, on the contrary, to treat them with civility and +friendship. + +Upon your arrival on the coast of New Albion, you are to put into the +first convenient port to recruit your wood and water, and procure +refreshments, and then to proceed northward along the coast as far as +the latitude of 65 deg., or farther, if you are not obstructed by lands or +ice, taking care not to lose any time in exploring rivers or inlets, or +upon any other account, until you get into the before-mentioned latitude +of 65 deg., where we could wish you to arrive in the month of June next. +When you get that length, you are carefully to search for, and to +explore, such rivers or inlets as may appear to be of a considerable +extent, and pointing towards Hudson's or Baffin's Bays; and if, from +your own observations, or from any information you may receive from the +natives, (who, there is reason to believe, are the same race of people, +and speak the same language, of which you are furnished with a +vocabulary, as the Esquimaux,) there shall appear to be a certainty, or +even a probability, of a water passage into the afore-mentioned bays, or +either of them, you are, in such case, to use your utmost endeavours to +pass through with one or both of the sloops, unless you shall be of +opinion that the passage may be effected with more certainty, or with +greater probability, by smaller vessels; in which case you are to set up +the frames of one or both the small vessels with which you are +provided, and, when they are put together, and are properly fitted, +stored, and victualled, you are to dispatch one or both of them, under +the care of proper officers, with a sufficient number of petty officers, +men, and boats, in order to attempt the said passage, with such +instructions for their rejoining you, if they should fail, or for their +farther proceedings, if they should succeed in the attempt, as you shall +judge most proper. But, nevertheless, if you shall find it more eligible +to pursue any other measures than those above pointed out, in order to +make a discovery of the beforementioned passage, (if any such there be,) +you are at liberty, and we leave it to your discretion, to pursue such +measures accordingly. + +In case you shall be satisfied that there is no passage through to the +above-mentioned bays, sufficient for the purposes of navigation, you +are, at the proper season of the year, to repair to the port of St Peter +and St Paul in Kamtschatka, or wherever else you shall judge more +proper, in order to refresh your people and pass the winter; and, in the +spring of the ensuing year 1778 to proceed from thence to the northward, +as far as, in your prudence, you may think proper, in further search of +a N.E. or N.W. passage from the Pacific Ocean into the Atlantic Ocean, +or the North Sea; and if, from your own observation, or any information +you may receive, there shall appear to be a probability of such a +passage, you are to proceed as above directed: and having discovered +such passage, or failed in the attempt, make the best of your way back +to England, by such route as you may think best for the improvement of +geography and navigation, repairing to Spithead with both sloops, where +they are to remain till further order. + +At whatever places you may touch in the course of your voyage, where +accurate observations of the nature hereafter mentioned have not already +been made, you are, as far as your time will allow, very carefully to +observe the true situation of such places, both in latitude and +longitude; the variation of the needle; bearings of head-lands; height, +direction, and course of the tides and currents; depths and soundings of +the sea; shoals, rocks, &c.; and also to survey, make charts, and take +views of such bays, harbours, and different parts of the coast, and to +make such notations thereon as may be useful either to navigation or +commerce. You are also carefully to observe the nature of the soil, and +the produce thereof; the animals and fowls that inhabit or frequent it; +the fishes that are to be found in the rivers or upon the coast, and in +what plenty; and, in case there are any peculiar to such places, to +describe them as minutely, and to make as accurate drawings of them, as +you can; and, if you find any metals, minerals, or valuable stones, or +any extraneous fossils, you are to bring home specimens of each, as also +of the seeds of such trees, shrubs, plants, fruits, and grains, peculiar +to those places, as you may be able to collect, and to transmit them to +our secretary, that proper examination and experiments may be made of +them. Yon are likewise to observe the genius, temper, disposition, and +number of the natives and inhabitants, where you find any; and to +endeavour, by all proper means, to cultivate a friendship with them, +making them presents of such trinkets as you may have on board, and they +may like best, inviting them to traffic, and shewing them every kind of +civility and regard; but taking care, nevertheless, not to suffer +yourself to be surprised by them, but to be always on your guard against +any accidents. + +You are also, with the consent of the natives, to take possession, in +the name of the King of Great Britain, of convenient situations in such +countries as you may discover, that have not already been discovered or +visited by any other European power, and to distribute among the +inhabitants such things as will remain as traces and testimonies of your +having been there; but if you find the countries so discovered are +uninhabited, you are to take possession of them for his majesty, by +setting up proper marks and inscriptions, as first discoverers and +possessors. + +But forasmuch as, in undertakings of this nature, several emergencies +may arise not to be foreseen, and therefore not particularly to be +provided for by instructions before-hand, you are, in all such cases, to +proceed as you shall judge most advantageous to the service on which you +are employed. + +You are, by all opportunities, to send to our secretary, for our +information, accounts of your proceedings, and copies of the surveys and +drawings you shall have made; and upon your arrival in England, you are +immediately to repair to this office, in order to lay before us a full +account of your proceedings in the whole course of your voyage, taking +care, before you leave the sloop, to demand from the officers and petty +officers the log-books and journals they may have kept, and to seal +them up for inspection; and enjoining them, and the whole crew, not to +divulge where they have been, until they shall have permission so to do: +And you are to direct Captain Clerke to do the same, with respect to the +officers, petty officers, and crew of the Discovery. + +If any accident should happen to the Resolution in the course of the +voyage, so as to disable her from proceeding any farther, you are, in +such case, to remove yourself and her crew into the Discovery, and to +prosecute your voyage in her; her commander being hereby strictly +required to receive you on board, and to obey your orders, the same, in +every respect, as when you were actually on board the Resolution. And, +in case of your inability, by sickness or otherwise, to carry these +instructions into execution, you are to be careful to leave them with +the next officer in command, who is hereby required to execute them in +the best manner he can. + +Given under our hands the 6th day of July, 1776, + + + SANDWICH, + C. SPENCER, + H. PALLISER. + + +By command of their lordships, + +PH. STEPHENS. + + + * * * * * + +Besides ordering Captain Cook to sail on this important voyage, +government, in earnest about the object of it, adopted a measure, which, +while it could not but have a powerful operation on the crews of the +Resolution and Discovery, by adding the motives of interest to the +obligations of duty, at the same time encouraged all his majesty's +subjects to engage in attempts toward the proposed discovery. By the act +of parliament, passed in 1745,[34] a reward of twenty thousand pounds +had been held out. But it had been held out only to the ships belonging +to any of his majesty's subjects, exclusive of his majesty's own ships. +The act had a still more capital defect. It held out this reward only to +such ships as should discover a passage through Hudson's Bay; and, as we +shall soon take occasion to explain, it was, by this time, pretty +certain that no such passage existed within those limits. Effectual care +was taken to remedy both these defects by passing a new law; which, +after reciting the provisions of the former, proceeds as follows:--"And +whereas many advantages, both to commerce and science, may be also +expected from the discovery of any northern passage for vessels by sea, +between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, be it enacted, That if any ship +belonging to any of his majesty's subjects, or to his majesty, shall +find out, and sail through, any passage by sea between the Atlantic and +Pacific Oceans, in any direction, or parallel of the northern +hemisphere, to the northward of the 52 deg. of northern latitude, the owners +of such ships, if belonging to any of his majesty's subjects, or the +commander, officers, and seamen of such ship belonging to his majesty, +shall receive, as a reward for such discovery, the sum of twenty +thousand pounds. + +[Footnote 34: See the Statutes at Large, 18 George II. chap. 17.] + +"And whereas ships employed, both in the Spitzbergen Seas, and in +Davis's Straits, have frequent opportunities of approaching the North +Pole, though they have not time, during the course of one summer, to +penetrate into the Pacific Ocean; and whereas such approaches may +greatly tend to the discovery of a communication between the Atlantic +and Pacific Oceans, as well as be attended with many advantages to +commerce and science, &c. be it enacted, That if any ship shall approach +to within 1 deg. of the North Pole, the owner, &c. or commander, &c. so +approaching, shall receive, as a reward for such first approach, the sum +of five thousand pounds."[35] + +[Footnote 35: See the Statutes at Large, 1776, 16 George III. chap. 6.] + +That nothing might be omitted that could facilitate the success of +Captain Cook's expedition, some time before he sailed, in the beginning +of the summer of 1776, Lieutenant Pickersgill, appointed commander of +his majesty's armed brig the Lion, was ordered "to proceed to Davis's +Straits, for the protection of the British whale fishers;" and that +first object being secured, "he was then required and directed to +proceed up Baffin's Bay, and explore the coasts thereof, as far as in +his judgment the same could be done without apparent risk, taking care +to leave the above-mentioned bay so timely as to secure his return to +England in the fall of the year;" and it was farther enjoined to him, +"to make nautical remarks of every kind, and to employ Mr Lane (master +of the vessel under his command) in surveying, making charts, and taking +views of the several bays, harbours, and different parts of the coast +which he might visit, and in making such notations thereon as might be +useful to geography and navigation."[36] + +[Footnote 36: From his MS. Instructions, dated May 14, 1776.] + +Pickersgill, we see, was not to attempt the discovery of the passage. He +was directed to explore the coasts of Baffin's Bay, only to enable him +to bring back, the same year, some information, which might be an useful +direction toward planning an intended voyage into that bay the ensuing +summer, to try for the discovery of a passage on that side, with a view +to co-operate with Captain Cook; who, it was supposed, (from the tenor +of his instructions,) would be trying for this passage, about the same +time, from the opposite side of America. + +Pickersgill, obeying his instructions, at least in this instance, did +return that year, but there were sufficient reasons for not sending him +out again, and the command of the next expedition into Baffin's Bay was +conferred on Lieutenant Young; whose instructions, having an immediate +connection with our voyage, are here inserted. + + * * * * * + +_Extract of Instructions to Lieutenant Young, commanding the Lion Armed +Vessel, dated 13th March, 1777_. + + +Resolution.} Whereas, in pursuance of the king's pleasure, +Discovery } signified to us by the Earl of Sandwich, his +majesty's sloops named in the margin have been sent out under the +command of Captain Cook, in order, during this and the ensuing year, to +attempt a discovery of a northern passage, by sea, from the Pacific to +the Atlantic ocean; and, for that purpose, to run up as high as the +latitude of 65 deg. N., where it is hoped he will be able to arrive in the +month of June next; and there, and as much further to the northward as +in his prudence he shall think proper, very carefully to search for and +explore such rivers, or inlets, as may appear to be of a considerable +extent, and pointing to Hudson's or Baffin's Bays, or the north sea; +and, upon finding any passage through, sufficient for the purposes of +navigation, to attempt such passage with one or both of the sloops; or, +if they are judged to be too large, with smaller vessels, the frames of +which have been sent out with him for that purpose: And whereas, in +pursuance of his majesty's further pleasure, signified as aforesaid, the +armed vessel under your command hath been fitted in order to proceed to +Baffin's Bay, with a view to explore the western parts thereof, and to +endeavour to find a passage on that side, from the Atlantic to the +Pacific ocean, and we have thought fit to intrust you with the conduct +of that voyage; you are therefore hereby required and directed to put to +sea in the said armed vessel, without a moment's loss of time, and make +the best of your way into Baffin's Bay, and to use your best endeavours +to explore the western shores thereof, as far as in your judgment the +same can be done, without apparent risk, and to examine such +considerable rivers or inlets as you may discover; and in case you find +any, through which there may be a probability of passing into the +Pacific ocean, you are to attempt such passage; and if you succeed in +the attempt, and shall be able to repass it again, so as to return to +England this year, you are to make the best of your way to Spithead, or +the Nore, and remain there until you receive further order; sending us +an account of your arrival and proceedings. But if you shall succeed in +the attempt, and shall find the season too far advanced for you to +return the same way, you are then to look out for the most convenient +place to winter in, and to endeavour to return by the said passage as +early in the next year as the season will admit, and then to make the +best of your way to England, as above directed. + +In case, however, you should not find, or should be satisfied there is +not any probability of finding any such passage, or, finding it, you +should not be able to get through in the vessel you command, you are +then to return to England, as before-mentioned, unless you shall find +any branch of the sea leading to the westward which you shall judge +likely to afford a communication between the Atlantic and Pacific +oceans, and which you shall not be able to explore in the course of this +year, it being, in that case, left to your discretion to stay the winter +in the most commodious situation you can find, in order to pursue the +discovery next year, if you shall find it advisable so to do; and, +having discovered such passage, or not succeeded in the attempt, you are +to make the best of your way to England, as above directed. + + * * * * * + +It was natural to hope, that something would have been done in one or +other, or in both these voyages of the Lion, that might have opened our +views with regard to the practicability of a passage from this side of +America. But, unfortunately, the execution did not answer the +expectations conceived. Pickersgill, who had acquired professional +experience when acting under Captain Cook, justly merited the censure he +received, for improper behaviour when intrusted with command in Davis's +Strait; and the talents of Young, as it afterward appeared, were more +adapted to contribute to the glory of a victory, as commander of a line +of battle-ship, than to add to geographical discoveries, by encountering +mountains of ice, and exploring unknown coasts.[37] + +[Footnote 37: In the Philosophical Transactions, vol. lxviii. p, 1057, +we have the track of Pickersgill's voyage, which, probably, may be of +use to our Greenland ships, as it contains many observations for fixing +the longitude and latitude of the coasts in Davis's Strait. But it +appears that he never entered Baffin's Bay, the highest northern +latitude to which he advanced being 68 deg. 14'. As to Young's proceedings, +having failed absolutely in making any discovery, it is of less +consequence, that no communication of his journal could be +procured.--D.] + +Both Pickersgill and Young having been ordered to proceed into Baffin's +Bay; and Captain Cook being directed not to begin his search till he +should arrive in the latitude of 65 deg., it may not be improper to say +something here of the reasons which weighed with those who planned the +voyages, and framed the instructions, to carry their views so far +northward, as the proper situation, where the passage, if it existed at +all, was likely to be attempted with success. It may be asked, why was +Hudson's Bay neglected on our side of America; and why was not Captain +Cook ordered to begin his search on its opposite side, in much lower +latitudes? particularly, why not explore the strait leading into the +western sea of John de Fuca, between the latitudes of 47 deg. and 48 deg.; the +Archipelago of St Lazarus of Admiral de Fonte, between 50 deg. and 55 deg.; and +the rivers and lakes through which he found a passage north-eastward, +till he met with a ship from Boston? + +As to the pretended discoveries of de Fuca, the Greek pilot, or of de +Fonte, the Spanish admiral, though they have sometimes found their way +into fictitious maps, or have been warmly contended for by the espousers +of fanciful systems, to have directed Captain Cook to spend any time in +tracing them, would have been as wise a measure as if he had been +directed to trace the situation of Lilliput or Brobdignag. The latter +are, indeed, confessedly, mere objects of imagination; and the former, +destitute of any sufficient external evidence, bear so many striking +marks of internal absurdity, as warrant our pronouncing them to be the +fabric of imposture. Captain Cook's instructions were founded on an +accurate knowledge of what had been already done, and of what still +remained to do; and this knowledge pointed out the inutility of +beginning his search for a passage till his arrival in the latitude of +65 deg.. Of this every fair and capable enquirer will be abundantly +convinced, by an attention to the following particulars: + +Middleton, who commanded the expedition in 1741 and 1742, into Hudson's +Bay, had proceeded farther north than any of his predecessors in that +navigation. But though, from his former acquaintance with that bay, to +which he had frequently sailed in the service of the company, he had +entertained hopes of finding out a passage through it into the Pacific +Ocean, the observations which he was now enabled to make, induced him to +change his opinion; and, on his return to England, he made an +unfavourable report. Mr Dobbs, the patron of the enterprise, did not +acquiesce in this; and, fortified in his original idea of the +practicability of the passage, by the testimony of some of Middleton's +officers, he appealed to the public, accusing him of having +misrepresented facts, and of having, from interested motives, in concert +with the Hudson's Bay Company, decided against the practicability of the +passage, though the discoveries of his own voyage had put it within his +reach. + +He had, between the latitude of 65 deg. and 66 deg., found a very considerable +inlet running westward, into which he entered with his ships; and, +"after repeated trials of the tides, and endeavours to discover the +nature and course of the opening, for three weeks successively, he found +the flood constantly to come from the eastward, and that it was a large +river he had got into," to which he gave the name of Wager River."[38] + +[Footnote 38: See the Abstract of his Journal, published by Mr Dobbs.] + +The accuracy, or rather the fidelity, of this report, was denied by Mr +Dobbs, who contended that this opening _is a strait, and not a +fresh-water river_; and that Middleton, if he had examined it properly, +would have found a passage through it to the western American Ocean. The +failure of this voyage, therefore, only served to furnish our zealous +advocate for the discovery, with new arguments for attempting it once +more; and he had the good fortune, after getting the reward of twenty +thousand pounds established by act of parliament, to prevail upon a +society of gentlemen and merchants to fit out the Dobbs and California; +which ships, it was hoped, would be able to find their way into the +Pacific Ocean, by the very opening which Middleton's Voyage had pointed +out, and which he was believed to have misrepresented. + +This renovation of hope only produced fresh disappointment For it is +well known, that the voyage of the Dobbs and California, instead of +confuting, strongly confirmed all that Middleton had asserted. The +supposed strait was found to be nothing more than a fresh-water river, +and its utmost western navigable boundaries were now ascertained, by +accurate examination. But though Wager's Strait had thus disappointed +our hopes, as had also done Rankin's Inlet, which was now found to be a +close bay; and though other arguments, founded on the supposed course of +the tides in Hudson's Bay, appeared to be groundless, such is our +attachment to an opinion once adopted, that, even after the unsuccessful +issue of the voyage of the Dobbs and California, a passage through some +other place in that bay was, by many, considered as attainable; and, +particularly, Chesterfield's (formerly: called Bowden's) Inlet, lying +between latitude 65 deg. and 64 deg., succeeded Wager's Strait, in the sanguine +expectations of those who remained unconvinced by former +disappointments. Mr Ellis, who was on board the Dobbs, and who wrote the +history of the voyage, holds up this, as one of the places where the +passage may be sought for, upon very rational grounds, and with very +good effects.[39] He also mentions Repulse Bay, nearly in latitude 67 deg.; +but as to this he speaks less confidently; only saying, that by an +attempt there, we might probably approach nearer to the discovery.[40] +He had good reason for thus guarding his expression; for the committee, +who directed this voyage, admitting the impracticability of effecting a +passage at Repulse Bay, had refused allowing the ships to go into it, +being satisfied as to that place.[41] + +[Footnote 39: Ellis's Voyage, p. 328.] + +[Footnote 40: Ibid, p. 330.] + +[Footnote 41: Account of the voyage, by the clerk of the California, +vol. ii. p. 273. Mr Dobbs himself says, "That he thought the passage +would be impracticable, or, at least, very difficult, in case there was +one farther north than 67 deg.."--_Account of Hudson's Bay_, p. 99.--D.] + +Setting Repulse Bay, therefore, aside, within which we have no reason +for believing that any inlet exists, there did not remain any part of +Hudson's Bay to be searched, but Chesterfield's Inlet, and a small tract +of coast between the latitude 62 deg., and what is called the South Point of +Main, which had been left unexplored by the Dobbs and California. + +But this last gleam of hope has now disappeared. The aversion of the +Hudson's Bay Company to contribute any thing to the discovery of a +north-west passage had been loudly reported by Mr Dobbs; and the public +seemed to believe that the charge was well founded. But still, in +justice to them, it must be allowed, that in 1720, they had sent Messrs +Knight and Barlow, in a sloop on this very discovery; but these +unfortunate people were never more heard of. Mr Scroggs, who sailed in +search of them, in 1722, only brought back proofs of their shipwreck, +but no fresh intelligence about a passage, which he was also to look +for. They also sent a sloop, and a shallop, to try for this discovery, +in 1787; but to no purpose. If obstructions were thrown in the way of +Captain Middleton, and of the commanders of the Dobbs and California, +the governor and committee of the Hudson's Bay Company, since that time, +we must acknowledge, have made amends for the narrow prejudices, of +their predecessors; and we have it in our power to appeal to facts, +which abundantly testify, that every thing has been done by them, that +could be required by the public, toward perfecting the search for a +north-west passage. + +In the year 1761, Captain Christopher sailed from Fort Churchill, in the +sloop Churchill; and his voyage was not quite fruitless; for he sailed +up Chesterfield's Inlet, through which a passage had, by Mr Ellis's +account of it, been so generally expected. But when the water turned +brackish, which marked that he was not in a strait, but in a river, he +returned. + +To leave no room for a variety of opinion, however, he was ordered to +repeat the voyage the ensuing summer, in the same sloop, and Mr Norton, +in a cutter, was appointed to attend him. By the favour of the governor +and committee of the company, the journals of Captain Christopher, and +of Mr Norton, and Captain Christopher's chart of the inlet, have been +readily communicated. From these authentic documents, it appears that +the search and examination of Chesterfield's Inlet was now completed. It +was found to end in a fresh-water lake, at the distance of about one +hundred and seventy miles from the sea. This lake was found also to be +about twenty-one leagues long, and from five to ten broad, and to be +completely closed up on every side, except to the west, where there was +a little rivulet; to survey the state of which, Mr Norton and the crew +of the cutter having landed, and marched up the country, saw that it +soon terminated in three falls, one above another, and not water for a +small boat over them; and ridges, mostly dry from side to side, for +five, or six miles higher. + +Thus ends Chesterfield's Inlet, and all Mr Ellis's expectations of a +passage through it to the western ocean. The other parts of the coast, +from latitude 62 deg., to the South Point of Main, within which limits hopes +were also entertained of finding a passage, have, of late years, been +thoroughly explored. It is here that Pistol Bay is situated; which the +author who has writ last in this country, on the probability of a +north-west passage,[42] speaks of as the only remaining part of Hudson's +Bay where this western communication may exist. But this has been also +examined; and, on the authority of Captain Christopher, we can assure +the reader, that there is no inlet of any consequence in all that part +of the coast. Nay, he has, in an open boat, sailed round the bottom of +what is called Pistol Bay, and, in stead of a passage to a western sea, +found it does not run above three or four miles inland. + +[Footnote 42: Printed for Jeffreys, in 1768. His words are, "There +remains then to be searched for the discovery of a passage, the opening +called Pistol Bay, in Hudson's Bay," p. 122--D] + +Besides these voyages by sea, which satisfy us that we must not look for +a passage to the south of 67 deg. of latitude, we are indebted to the +Hudson's Bay Company for a journey by land, which has thrown much +additional light on this matter, by affording what may be called +demonstration, how much farther north, at least in some part of their +voyage, ships must hold their course, before they can pass from one side +of America to the other. The northern Indians, who come down to the +company's forts for trade, had brought to the knowledge of our people, +the existence of a river, which, from copper abounding near it, had got +the name of the Copper-mine River. We read much about this river in Mr +Dobbs's publications, and he considers the Indian accounts of it as +favourable to his system. The company being desirous of examining the +matter with precision, instructed their governor of Prince of Wales's +Fort, to send a proper person to travel by land, under the escort of +some trusty northern Indians, with orders to proceed to this famous +river, to take an accurate survey of its course, and to trace it to the +sea, into which it empties itself. Mr Hearne, a young gentleman in their +service, who, having been an officer in the navy, was well qualified to +make observations for fixing the longitude and latitude, and make +drawings of the country he should pass through, and of the river which +he was to examine, was appointed for this service. + +Accordingly, he set out from Fort Prince of Wales, on Churchill River, +in latitude 58 deg. 50', on the 7th of December, 1770; and the whole of his +proceedings, from time to time, are faithfully preserved in his journal. +The publication of this is an acceptable present to the world, as it +draws a plain artless picture of the savage modes of life, the scanty +means of subsistence, and indeed of the singular wretchedness, in every +respect, of the various tribes, who, without fixed habitations, pass +their miserable lives, roving throughout the dreary deserts, and over +the frozen lakes of the immense tract of continent through which Mr +Hearne passed, and which he may be said to have added to the geography +of the globe. His general course was to the northwest. In the month of +June 1771, being then at a place called _Conge catha wha Chaga_, he had, +to use his own words, two good observations, both by meridian and double +altitudes, the mean of which determines this place to be in latitude 66 deg. +46' N., and, by account, in longitude 24 deg. 2' W. of Churchill River. On +the 13th of July (having left _Conge catha wha Chaga_ on the 3d, and +travelling still to the west of north) he reached the Copper-mine River; +and was not a little surprised to find it differ so much from the +descriptions given of it by the natives at the fort; for, instead of +being likely to be navigable for a ship, it is, at this part, scarcely +navigable for an Indian canoe; three falls being in sight, at one view, +and being choaked up with shoals and stony ridges. + +Here Mr Hearne began his survey of the river. This he continued till he +arrived at its mouth, near which his northern Indians massacred +twenty-one Esquimaux, whom they surprised in their tents. We shall give +Mr Hearne's account of his arrival at the sea, in his own words: "After +the Indians had plundered the tents of the Esquimaux of all the copper, +&c. they were then again ready to assist me in making an end to the +survey; the sea then in sight from the N.W. by W. to the N.E., distant +about eight miles. It was then about five in the morning of the 17th, +when I again proceeded to survey the river to the mouth, still found, in +every respect, no ways likely, or a possibility of being made navigable, +being full of shoals and falls; and, at the entrance, the river emptying +itself over a dry flat of the shore. For the tide was then out, and +seemed, by the edges of the ice, to flow about twelve or fourteen feet, +which will only reach a little within the river's mouth. That being the +case, the water in the river had not the least brackish taste. But I am +sure of its being the sea, or some part thereof, by the quantity of +whale-bone and seal-skins the Esquimaux had at their tents; as also the +number of seals which I saw upon the ice. The sea, at the river's mouth, +was full of islands and shoals, as far as I could see, by the assistance +of a pocket-telescope; and the ice was not yet broken up, only thawed +away about three quarters of a mile from the snore, and a little way +round the islands and shoals. + +"By the time I had completed this survey, it was about one in the +morning of the 18th; but in these high latitudes, and this time of the +year, the sun is always a good height above the horizon. It then came on +a thick drizzling rain, with a thick fog; and, as finding the river and +sea, in every respect, not likely to be of any utility, I did not think +it worth while to wait for fair weather, to determine the latitude +exactly by an observation. But, by the extraordinary care I took in +observing the courses and distances, walked from _Conge catha wha +Chaga_, where I had two good observations, the latitude may be depended +on, within twenty miles at farthest." + +From the map which Mr Hearne constructed of the country through which he +passed, in this singular journey, it appears that the mouth of the +Copper-mine River lies in the latitude 72 deg., and above 25 deg. west longitude +from the fort, from whence he took his departure.[43] + +[Footnote 43: Mr Hearne's journey, back from the Copper-mine River, to +Fort Prince of Wales, lasted till June 30, 1772. From his first setting +out till his return, he had employed near a year and seven months. The +unparalleled hardships he suffered, and the essential service he +performed, met with a suitable reward from his masters, and he was made +governor of Fort Prince of Wales, where he was taken prisoner by the +French in 1782; but soon afterwards returned to his station."--D. + +This opportunity is taken to mention, that Mr Arrowsmith lays down +Copper-mine River in longitude 113 deg., and not in 120 deg., according to Mr +Hearne. In the opinion of Mr H. this river flows into an inland sea. Be +this as it may, the result of his discoveries is unfavourable to the +supposition of there being a north-west passage, Mr Hearne's journal was +not published till 1795, considerably after the date of Dr Douglas's +writing. Some alterations have consequently been made on the text and +notes of that gentleman.--E.] + + +The consequences resulting from this extensive discovery, are obvious. +We now see that the continent of North America stretches from Hudson's +Bay so far to the north-west, that Mr Hearne had travelled near thirteen +hundred miles before he arrived at the sea. His most western distance +from the coast of Hudson's Bay was near six hundred miles; and that his +Indian guides were well apprised of a vast tract of continent stretching +farther on in that direction, is certain from many circumstances +mentioned in his journal. + +What is now mentioned with regard to the discoveries made by the +Hudson's Bay Company, was well known to the noble lord who presided at +the Board of Admiralty when this voyage was undertaken; and the intimate +connection of those discoveries with the plan of the voyage, of course, +regulated the instructions given to Captain Cook. + +And now, may we not take it upon us to appeal to every candid and +capable enquirer, whether that part of the instructions which directed +the captain not to lose time, in exploring rivers or inlets, or upon any +other account, till he got into the latitude of 65 deg., was not framed +judiciously; as there were such indubitable proofs that no passage +existed so far to the south as any part of Hudson's Bay, and that, if a +passage could be effected at all, part of it, at least, must be +traversed by the ships as far to the northward as the latitude 72 deg., +where Mr Hearne arrived at the sea? + +We may add, as a farther consideration in support of this article of the +instructions, that Beering's Asiatic discoveries, in 1728, having traced +that continent to the latitude of 67 deg., Captain Cook's approach toward +that latitude was to be wished for, that he might be enabled to bring +back more authentic information than the world had hitherto obtained, +about the relative situation and vicinity of the two continents, which +was absolutely necessary to be known, before the practicability of +sailing between the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, in any northern +direction, could be ascertained. + +After all, that search, in a lower latitude, which they who give credit +(if any such there now be) to the pretended discoveries of De Fonte, +affect to wish had been recommended to Captain Cook, has (if that will +cure them of their credulity) been satisfactorily made. The Spaniards, +roused from their lethargy by our voyages, and having caught a spark of +enterprise from our repeated visits to the Pacific Ocean, have followed +us more than once into the line of our discoveries within the southern +tropic; and have also fitted out expeditions to explore the American +continent to the north of California. It is to be lamented, that there +should be any reasons why the transactions of those Spanish voyages have +not been fully disclosed, with the same liberal spirit of information +which other nations have adopted. But, fortunately, this excessive +caution of the court of Spain has been defeated, at least in one +instance, by the publication of an authentic journal of their voyage of +discovery upon the coast of America, in 1775, for which the world is +indebted to the honourable Mr Daines Barrington. This publication, which +conveys some information of real consequence to geography, and has +therefore been referred to more than once in the following work, is +particularly valuable in this respect, that some parts of the coast +which Captain Cook, in his progress northward, was prevented, by +unfavourable winds, from approaching, were seen and examined by the +Spanish ships who preceded him; and the perusal of the following extract +from their journal may be recommended to those (if any such there be) +who would represent it as an imperfection in Captain Cook's voyage, that +he had not an opportunity of examining the coast of America, in the +latitude assigned to the discoveries of Admiral Fonte. "We now attempted +to find out the straits of Admiral Fonte, though, as yet, we had not +discovered the Archipelago of St Lazarus, through which he is said to +have sailed. With this intent, we searched every bay and recess of the +coast, and sailed round every headland, lying-to in the night, that we +might not lose sight of this entrance. After these pains taken, and +being favoured by a north-west wind, it may be pronounced that no such +straits are to be found."[44] + +[Footnote 44: Journal of a voyage in 1775 by Don Francisco Antonio +Maurelle, in Mr Barrington's Miscellanies, p. 508.--D.] + +In this journal, the Spaniards boast of "having reached so high a +latitude as 58 deg., beyond what any other navigators had been able to +effect in those seas."[45] Without diminishing the merit of their +performance, we may be permitted to say, that it will appear very +inconsiderable indeed, in comparison of what Captain Cook effected, in +the voyage of which an account is given in these volumes. Besides +exploring, the land in the South Indian Ocean, of which Kerguelen, in +two voyages, had been able to obtain but a very imperfect knowledge; +adding also many considerable accessions to the geography of the +Friendly Islands; and discovering the noble group, now called Sandwich +Islands, in the northern part of the Pacific Ocean, of which not the +faintest trace can be met with in the account of any former voyage; +besides these preliminary discoveries, the reader of the following work +will find, that in one summer, our English navigator discovered a much +larger proportion of the north-west coast of America than the Spaniards, +though settled in the neighbourhood, had, in all their attempts, for +above two hundred years, been able to do; that he has put it beyond all +doubt that Beering and Tscherikoff had really discovered the continent +of America in 1741, and has also established the prolongation of that +continent westward opposite Kamschatka, which speculative writers, +wedded to favourite systems, had affected so much to disbelieve, and +which, though admitted by Muller, had, since he wrote, been considered +as disproved, by later Russian discoveries;[46] that, besides +ascertaining the true position of the western coasts of America, with +some inconsiderable interruptions, from latitude 44 deg. up to beyond the +latitude 70 deg., he has also ascertained the position of the northeastern +extremity of Asia, by confirming Beering's discoveries in 1728, and +adding extensive accessions of his own; that he has given us more +authentic information concerning the islands lying between the two +continents, than the Kamtschatka traders, ever since Beering first +taught them to venture on this sea, had been able to procure; that, by +fixing the relative situation of Asia and America, and discovering the +narrow bounds of the strait that divides them, he has thrown a blaze of +light upon this important part of the geography of the globe, and +solved the puzzling problem about the peopling of America, by tribes +destitute of the necessary means to attempt long navigations; and, +lastly, that, though the principal object of the voyage failed, the +world will be greatly benefited even by the failure, as it has brought +us to the knowledge of the existence of the impediments which future +navigators may expect to meet with, in attempting to go to the East +Indies through Beering's strait.[47] + +[Footnote 45: _Ibid_. p. 507. We learn from Maurelle's Journal, that +another voyage had been some time before performed upon the coast of +America; but the utmost northern progress of it was to latitude +55 deg..--D.] + +[Footnote 46: See Coxe's Russian Discoveries, p. 26, 27, &c. The +fictions of speculative geographers in the southern hemisphere, have +been continents; in the northern hemisphere, they have been seas. It may +be observed, therefore, that if Captain Cook in his first voyages +annihilated imaginary southern lands, he has made amends for the havock, +in his third voyage, by annihilating imaginary northern seas, and +filling up the vast space which had been allotted to them, with the +solid contents of his new discoveries of American land farther west and +north than had hitherto been traced.--D.] + +[Footnote 47: The Russians seem to owe much to England, in matters +respecting their own possessions. It is singular enough that one of our +countrymen, Dr Campbell, (see his edition of Harris's voyages, vol. ii. +p. 1021) has preserved many valuable particulars of Beering's first +voyage, of which Muller himself, the historian of their earlier +discoveries, makes no mention; that it should be another of our +countrymen, Mr Coxe, who first published a satisfactory account of their +later discoveries; and that the King of Great Britain's ships should +traverse the globe in 1778, to confirm to the Russian empire the +possession of near thirty degrees, or above six hundred miles, of +continent, which Mr Engel, in his zeal for the practicability of a +north-east passage, would prune away from the length of Asia to the +eastward. See his _Alanoires Geographiques_, &c. Lausanne 1765; which, +however, contains much real information, and many parts of which are +confirmed by Captain Cook's American discoveries.--D. + +It shews some inconsistency in Captain Krusenstern, that whilst he +speaks of the too successful policy of the commercial nations of Europe +to lull Russia into a state of slumber as to her interests, he should +give us to understand, that the same effect which Captain Cook's third +voyage produced on the speculative and enterprising spirit of English +merchants, had been occasioned among his countrymen forty years sooner, +by the discovery of the Aleutic islands and the north-west coast of +America. But, in fact, it is the highest censure he could possibly have +passed on his own government, to admit, that it had been subjected to +such stupifying treatment. This it certainly could not have been, +without the previous existence of such a lethargy as materially +depreciates the virtue of any opiate employed. There is no room, +however, for the allegation made; and the full amount of her slumber is +justly imputable to the gross darkness which so long enveloped the +horizon of Russia. Whose business was it to rouse her? What nation could +be supposed to possess so much of the spirit of knight-errantry, as to +be induced to instruct her savages as to the advantages of cultivating +commerce, without a cautious regard to its own particular interests in +the first place? But the bold, though somewhat impolitic seaman, has +perhaps stumbled on the real cause of the slow progress which she has +hitherto made in the course which his sanguine imagination has pointed +out for her. Speaking of her inexhaustible springs and incentives to +commerce, he nevertheless admits, that there are obstacles which render +it difficult for her to become a trading nation. But these obstacles, he +says, do not warrant a doubt of the possibility of removing them. "Let +the monarch only express his pleasure with regard to them, and _the most +difficult are already overcome!_" The true prosperity of Russia, it is +indubitably certain, will be infinitely more advanced by fostering her +infant commerce, than by any augmentation of territories which the +policy or arms of her sovereign can accomplish. But he will always +require much self-denial to avoid intermeddling with the concerns of +other nations, and to restrict his labours to the improvement of his own +real interests.--E.] + +The extended review we have taken of the preceding voyages, and the +general outline we have sketched out, of the transactions of the last, +which are recorded at full length in these volumes, will not, it is +hoped, be considered as a prolix or unnecessary detail. It will serve to +give a just notion of the whole plan of discovery executed by his +majesty's commands. And it appearing that much was aimed at, and much +accomplished, in the unknown parts of the globe, in both hemispheres, +there needs no other consideration, to give full satisfaction to those +who possess an enlarged way of thinking, that a variety of useful +purposes must have been effected by these researches. But there are +others, no doubt, who, too diffident of their own abilities, or too +indolent to exert them, would wish to have their reflections assisted, +by pointing out what those useful purposes are. For the service of such, +the following enumeration of particulars is entered upon. And if there +should be any, who affect to undervalue the plan or the execution of our +voyages, what shall now be offered, if it do not convince them, may, at +least, check the influence of their unfavourable decision. + +1. It may be fairly considered, as one great advantage accruing to the +world from our late surveys of the globe, that they have confuted +fanciful theories, too likely to give birth to impracticable +undertakings. + +After Captain Cook's persevering and fruitless traverses through every +corner of the southern hemisphere, who, for the future, will pay any +attention to the ingenious reveries of Campbell, de Brosses, and de +Buffon? or hope to establish an intercourse with such a continent as +Manpertuis's fruitful imagination had pictured? A continent equal, at +least, in extent, to all the civilized countries in the known northern +hemisphere, where new men, new animals, new productions of every kind, +might be brought forward to our view, and discoveries be made, which +would open inexhaustible treasures of commerce?[48] We can now boldly +take it upon us to discourage all expeditions, formed on such reasonings +of speculative philosophers, into a quarter of the globe, where our +persevering English navigator, instead of this promised fairy land, +found nothing but barren rocks, scarcely affording shelter to penguins +and seals; and dreary seas, and mountains of ice, occupying the immense +space allotted to imaginary paradises, and the only treasures there to +be discovered, to reward the toil, and to compensate the dangers, of the +unavailing search. + +[Footnote 48: See Maupertuis's Letter to the King of Prussia. The author +of the Preliminary Discourse to Bougainville's _Voyage aux Isles +Malouines_, computes that the southern continent (for the existence of +which, he owns, we must depend more on the conjectures of philosophers, +than on the testimony of voyagers) contains eight or ten millions of +square leagues.--D.] + +Or, if we carry our reflections into the northern hemisphere, could Mr +Dobbs have made a single convert, much less could he have been the +successful solicitor of two different expeditions, and have met with +encouragement from the legislature, with regard to his favourite passage +through Hudson's Bay, if Captain Christopher had previously explored its +coasts, and if Mr Hearne had walked over the immense continent behind +it? Whether, after Captain Cook's and Captain Clerke's discoveries on +the west side of America, and their report of the state of Beering's +Strait, there can be sufficient encouragement to make future attempts to +penetrate into the Pacific Ocean in any northern direction, is a +question, for the decision of which the public will be indebted to this +work. + +2. But our voyages will benefit the world, not only by discouraging +future unprofitable searches, but also by lessening the dangers and +distresses formerly experienced in those seas, which are within the line +of commerce and navigation, now actually subsisting. In how many +instances have the mistakes of former navigators, in fixing the true +situations of important places, been rectified? What accession to the +variation chart? How many nautical observations have been collected, and +are now ready to be consulted, in directing a ship's course, along rocky +shores, through narrow straits, amidst perplexing currents, and +dangerous shoals? But, above all, what numbers of new bays, and +harbours, and anchoring-places, are now, for the first time, brought +forward, where ships may be sheltered, and their crews find tolerable +refreshments? To enumerate all these, would be to transcribe great part +of the journals of our several commanders, whose labours will endear +them to every navigator whom trade or war may carry into their tracks. +Every nation that sends a ship to sea will partake of the benefit; but +Great Britain herself, whose commerce is boundless, must take the lead +in reaping the full advantage of her own discoveries. + +In consequence of all these various improvements, lessening the +apprehensions of engaging in long voyages, may we not reasonably indulge +the pleasing hope, that fresh branches of commerce may, even in our own +time, be attempted, and successfully carried on? Our hardy adventurers +in the whale-fishery have already found their way, within these few +years, into the South Atlantic; and who knows what fresh sources of +commerce may still be opened, if the prospect of gain can be added, to +keep alive the spirit of enterprise? If the situation of Great Britain +be too remote, other trading nations will assuredly avail themselves of +our discoveries. We may soon expect to hear that the Russians, now +instructed by us where to find the American continent, have extended +their voyages from the Fox Islands to Cook's River, and Prince William's +Sound. And if Spain itself should not be tempted to trade from its most +northern Mexican ports, by the fresh mine of wealth discovered in the +furs of King George's Sound, which they may transport in their Manilla +ships, as a favourite commodity for the Chinese market, that market may +probably be supplied by a direct trade to America, from Canton itself, +with those valuable articles which the inhabitants of China have +hitherto received, only by the tedious and expensive circuit of +Kamtschatka and Kiachta.[49] + +[Footnote 49: It is not unlikely that Captain Krusenstern was indebted +to the hint now given, for his proposal to establish a direct commercial +intercourse with China. The reader who desires information respecting +the nature of the fur trade carried on betwixt the north-west coast of +America, the neighbouring islands, and China, may consult his +introduction. The affairs of Spain, it may be remarked, long precluded +the requisite attention to her commercial interests, and do not now +promise a speedy recovery under her apparently infatuated government. To +Nootka or King George's Sound, mentioned in the text, that power +abandoned all right and pretensions, in favour of Great Britain, in +1790, after an altercation, which at one time bid fair to involve the +two kingdoms in war. It was during this dispute, and in view of its +hostile termination, that Mr Pitt gave his sanction to a scheme for +revolutionizing the Spanish colonies, an event which, if not now +encouraged by any direct assistance, bears too complacent an aspect on +our commercial interests not to be regarded with a large portion of good +wishes. It is impossible, indeed, excluding altogether every idea of +personal advantage, not to hope highly, at least, of any efforts which +may be made to wrest the souls and bodies of millions from the clutch of +ignorance and tyranny. The fate of these colonists is by no means the +most unimportant spectacle which the passing drama of the world exhibits +to the eye of an enlightened and humane politician.--E.] + +These, and many other commercial improvements, may reasonably be +expected to result from the British discoveries, even in our own times. +But if we look forward to future ages, and to future changes in the +history of commerce, by recollecting its various past revolutions and +migrations, we may be allowed to please ourselves with the idea of its +finding its way, at last, throughout the extent of the regions with +which our voyages have opened an intercourse; and there will be abundant +reason to subscribe to Captain Cook's observation with regard to New +Zealand, which may be applied to other tracts of land explored by him, +that, "although they be far remote from the present trading world, we +can, by no means, tell what use future ages may make of the discoveries +made by the present.[50] In this point of view, surely, the utility of +the late voyages must stand confessed; and we may be permitted to say, +that the history of their operations has the justest pretensions to be +called [Greek: chtaema is au], as it will convey to latest posterity a +treasure of interesting information. + +[Footnote 50: Cook's second voyage.] + +3. Admitting, however, that we may have expressed too sanguine +expectations of commercial advantages, either within our own reach, or +gradually to be unfolded at some future period, as the result of our +voyages of discovery, we may still be allowed, to consider them as a +laudable effort to add to the stock of human knowledge, with regard to +an object which cannot but deserve the attention of enlightened man. To +exert our faculties in devising ingenious modes of satisfying ourselves +about the magnitude and distance of the sun; to extend our acquaintance +with the system, to which that luminary is the common centre, by tracing +the revolutions of a new planet, or the appearance of a new comet; to +carry our bold researches through all the immensity of space, where +world beyond world rises to the view of the astonished observer; these +are employments which none but those incapable of pursuing them can +depreciate, and which every one capable of pursuing them must delight +in, as a dignified exercise of the powers of the human mind. But while +we direct our studies to distant worlds, which, after all our exertions, +we must content ourselves with having barely discovered to exist, it +would be a strange neglect, indeed, and would argue a most culpable want +of rational curiosity, if we did not use our best endeavours to arrive +at a full acquaintance with the contents of our own planet; of that +little spot in the immense universe, on which we have been placed, and +the utmost limits of which, at least its habitable parts, we possess the +means of ascertaining, and describing, by actual examination. + +So naturally doth this reflection present itself, that to know something +of the terraqueous globe, is a favourite object with every one who can +taste the lowest rudiments of learning. Let us not, therefore, think so +meanly of the times in which we live, as to suppose it possible that +full justice will not be done to the noble plan of discovery, so +steadily and so successfully carried on, since the accession of his +majesty; which cannot fail to be considered, in every succeeding age, as +a splendid period in the history of our country, and to add to our +national glory, by distinguishing Great Britain as taking the lead in +the most arduous undertakings for the common benefit of the human race. +Before these voyages took place, nearly half the surface of the globe we +inhabit was hid in obscurity and confusion. What is still wanting to +complete our geography may justly be termed the _minutiae_ of that +science. + +4. Let us now carry our thoughts somewhat farther. It is fortunate for +the interests of knowledge, that acquisitions, in any one branch, +generally, and indeed unavoidably, lead to acquisitions in other +branches, perhaps of still greater consequence; and that we cannot even +gratify mere curiosity without being rewarded with valuable instruction. +This observation applies to the subject before us. Voyages, in which new +oceans have been traversed, and in which new countries have been +visited, can scarcely ever be performed without bringing forward to our +view fresh objects of science. Even when we are to take our report of +what was discovered from the mere sailor, whose knowledge scarcely goes +beyond the narrow limits of his own profession, and whose enquiries are +not directed by philosophical discernment, it will be unfortunate indeed +if something hath not been remarked, by which the scholar may profit, +and useful accessions be made to our old stock of information. And if +this be the case in general, how much more must be gained by the +particular voyages now under consideration? Besides naval officers +equally skilled to examine the coasts they might approach, as to +delineate them accurately upon their charts, artists[51] were engaged, +who, by their drawings, might illustrate what could only be imperfectly +described; mathematicians,[52] who might treasure up an extensive series +of scientific observations; and persons versed in the various +departments of the history of nature, who might collect, or record, all +that they should find new and valuable, throughout the wide extent of +their researches. But while most of these associates of our naval +discoverers were liberally rewarded by the public, there was one +gentleman, who, thinking it the noblest reward he could receive, to have +an opportunity of making the ample fortune he inherited from his +ancestors subservient to the improvement of science, stepped forward of +his own accord, and, submitting to the hardships and dangers of a +circumnavigation of the globe, accompanied Captain Cook in the +Endeavour. The learned world, I may also say the unlearned, will never +forget the obligations which it owes to Sir Joseph Banks. + +[Footnote 51: Messrs Hodges and Webber, whose drawings have ornamented +and illustrated this and Captain Cook's second voyage.--D.] + +[Footnote 52: Mr Green, in the Endeavour; Messrs Wales and Bayly, in the +Resolution and the Adventure; Mr Bayly, a second time, jointly with +Captains Cook and King in this voyage; and Mr Lyons, who accompanied +Lord Mulgrave.--D.] + +What real acquisitions have been gained by this munificent attention to +science, cannot be better expressed than in the words of Mr Wales, who +engaged in one of these voyages himself, and contributed largely to the +benefits derived from them. + +"That branch of natural knowledge which may be called _nautical +astronomy_, was undoubtedly in its infancy when these voyages were first +undertaken. Both instruments and observers, which deserved the name, +were very rare; and so late as the year 1770, it was thought necessary, +in the appendix to Mayor's Tables, published by the Board of Longitude, +to state facts, in contradiction to the assertions of so celebrated an +astronomer as the Abbe de la Caille, that the altitude of the sun at +noon, the easiest and most simple of all observations, could not be +taken with certainty to a less quantity than five, six, seven, or even +eight minutes.[53] But those who will give themselves the trouble to +look into the astronomical observations, made in Captain Cook's last +voyage, will find, that there were few, even of the petty officers, who +could not observe the distance of the moon from the sun, or a star, the +most delicate of all observations, with sufficient accuracy. It may be +added, that the method of making and computing observations for finding +the variation of the compass, is better known, and more frequently +practised, by those who have been on these voyages, than by most others. +Nor is there, perhaps, a person who ranks as an officer, and has been +concerned in them, who would not, whatever his real skill may be, feel +ashamed to have it thought that he did not know how to observe for, and +compute the time at sea; though, but a short while before these voyages +were set on foot, such a thing was scarcely ever heard of amongst +seamen; and even first-rate astronomers doubted the possibility of doing +it with sufficient exactness.[54] + +[Footnote 53: The Abbe's words are,--"Si ceux qui promettent une si +grande precision dans ces sortes de methodes, avoient navigue quelques +temps, ils auroient vu souvent, que dans l'observation la plus simple de +toutes, qui est celle de la hauteur du soleil a midi, deux observations, +munis de bons quartiers de reflexion, bien rectifies, different +entr'eux, lorsqu'ils observent chacun a part, de 5', 6', 7', & +8'."--_Ephemer_. 1755--1765. _Introduction_, p. 32. + +It must be, however, mentioned, in justice to M. de la Caille, that he +attempted to introduce the lunar method of discovering the longitude, +and proposed a plan of calculations of the moon's distance from the sun +and fixed stars; but, through the imperfection of his instruments, his +success was much less than that method was capable of affording. The +bringing it into general use was reserved for Dr Maskelyne, our +Astronomer Royal. See the preface to the Tables for correcting the +Effects of Refraction and Parallax, published by the Board of Longitude, +under the direction of Dr Shepherd, Flumian Professor of Astronomy and +Experimental Philosophy at Cambridge, in 1772.--D.] + +[Footnote 54: In addition, to Mr Wales's remark, it may be observed, +that the proficiency of our naval officers in taking observations at +sea, must ultimately be attributed to the great attention paid to this +important object by the Board of Longitude at home; liberal rewards +having been given to mathematicians for perfecting the lunar tables, and +facilitating calculations, and to artists for constructing more accurate +instruments for observing, and watches better adapted to keeping time at +sea. It appears, therefore, that the voyages of discovery, and the +operations of the Board of Longitude, went hand in hand; and they must +be combined, in order to form a just estimate of the extent of the plan +carried into execution since his majesty's accession, for improving +astronomy and navigation. But, besides the establishment of the Board of +Longitude on its present footing, which has had such important +consequences, it must also be ever acknowledged, that his present +majesty has extended his royal patronage to every branch of the liberal +arts and useful science. The munificent present to the Royal Society for +defraying the expence of observing the _transit_ of Venus; the +institution of the Academy of Painting and Sculpture; the magnificent +apartments allotted to the Royal and Antiquarian Societies, and to the +Royal Academy at Somerset-Place; the support of the Garden of Exotics at +Kew, to improve which Mr Masson was sent to the extremities of Africa; +the substantial encouragement afforded to learned men and learned works +in various departments, and particularly that afforded to Mr Herschel, +which has enabled him to devote himself entirely to the improvement of +astronomy;--these, and many other instances which might be enumerated, +would have greatly distinguished his majesty's reign, even if he had not +been the patron of those successful attempts to perfect geography and +navigation by so many voyages of discovery.--D. + +It is scarcely necessary to add to this note by saying, that the period +which has elapsed since the first publication of this voyage, has not +witnessed any failure of the promises held out by the previous state of +science, notwithstanding the calamities and embarrassments attendant on +the revolutionary frenzy that, in some degree, infected every country in +Europe. Science, indeed, has peculiarly prospered amid the miseries of +the world. In pity of the destructive work, in which man's bad passions +had been engaged with such industrious ferocity, she has held out in one +hand a remedy for the evil, and pointed with the other to the blessings +of peace. Is it unreasonable to hope, that the precious seed sown in +such tumultuous times as we have witnessed, and are now witnessing, will +ere long yield a rich harvest to reward the industry of her labourers? +But let, us not limit our expectations and toils to the completion of +mere _minutiae_, as Dr Douglas speaks. The opinion of plenty, says Lord +Bacon, is one of the causes of want. A more unfavourable symptom of our +condition could hardly be found, than a belief that we had reached +perfection. Let us rather think that greater progress may yet be made in +beneficial arts and sciences than ever was made hitherto, and be +therefore stimulated to more ambitious exertions. It will be no glory to +the next generation that we have gone so far, if they themselves are not +invited and enabled by our success to get beyond us.--E.] + +"The number of places at which the rise and times of flowing of tides +have been observed, in these voyages, is very great, and hence an +important article of useful knowledge is afforded. In these +observations, some very curious, and even unexpected, circumstances, +have offered themselves to our consideration. It will be sufficient to +instance the exceedingly small height to which the tide rises in the +middle of the great Pacific Ocean, where it falls short, two-thirds at +least, of what might have been expected from theory and calculation. + +"The direction and force of currents at sea, make also an important +object. These voyages will be found to contain much useful information +on this head, as well relating to seas nearer home, and which, in +consequence, are navigated every day, as to those which are more remote, +but where, notwithstanding, the knowledge of these things may be of +great service to those who are destined to navigate them hereafter. To +this head also we may refer the great number of experiments which have +been made for enquiring into the depth of the sea, its temperature, and +saltness at different depths, and in a variety of places and climates. + +"An extensive foundation has also been laid for improvements in +magnetism, for discovering the cause and nature of the polarity of the +needle, and a theory of its variations, by the number and variety of the +observations and experiments which have been made, both on the variation +and dip, in almost all parts of the world. Experiments also have been +made, in consequence of the late voyages, on the effects of gravity in +different and very distant places, which may serve to increase our stock +of natural knowledge. From the same source of information we have +learned, that the phenomenon, usually called the _aurora borealis_, is +not peculiar to high northern latitudes, but belongs equally to all cold +climates, whether they be north or south. + +"But, perhaps, no part of knowledge has been so great a gainer by the +late voyages as that of botany. We are told,[55] that at least twelve +hundred new plants have been added to the known system; and that very +considerable additions have been made to every other branch of natural +history, by the great skill and industry of Sir Joseph Banks, and the +other gentlemen who have accompanied Captain Cook for that purpose." + +[Footnote 55: See Dr Shepherd's Preface, as above.] + +To our naval officers in general, or to their learned associates in the +expeditions, all the foregoing improvements of knowledge may be traced; +but there is one very singular improvement indeed, still behind, for +which, as we are solely indebted to Captain Cook, let us state it in his +own words: "Whatever may be the public judgment about other matters, it +is with real satisfaction, and without claiming any merit but that of +attention to my duty, that I can conclude this account with an +observation, which facts enable me to make, that our having discovered +the possibility of preserving health amongst a numerous ship's company +for such a length of time, in such varieties of climate, and amidst such +continued hardships and fatigues, will make this voyage remarkable in +the opinion of every benevolent person, when the disputes about a +southern continent shall have ceased to engage the attention and to +divide the judgment of philosophers."[56] + +[Footnote 56: 34: Cook's second voyage.] + +5. But while our late voyages have opened so many channels to an +increase of knowledge in the several articles already enumerated; while +they have extended our acquaintance with the contents of the globe; +while they have facilitated old tracks, and opened new ones for +commerce; while they have been the means of improving the skill of the +navigator, and the science of the astronomer; while they have procured +to us so valuable accessions in the several departments of natural +history, and furnished such opportunities of teaching us how to preserve +the healths and lives of seamen, let us not forget another very +important object of study, for which they have afforded to the +speculative philosopher ample materials; I mean the study of human +nature in various situations, equally interesting as they are uncommon. + +However remote or secluded from frequent intercourse with more polished +nations the inhabitants of any parts of the world be, if history or our +own observation should make it evident that they have been formerly +visited, and that foreign manners and opinions, and languages, have been +blended with their own, little use can be made of what is observed +amongst such people toward drawing a real picture of man in his natural +uncultivated state. This seems to be the situation of the inhabitants of +most of the islands that lie contiguous to the continent of Asia, and of +whose manners and institutions the Europeans, who occasionally visit +them, have frequently given us accounts. But the islands which our +enterprising discoverers visited in the centre of the South Pacific +Ocean, and are indeed the principal scenes of their operations, were +untrodden ground. The inhabitants, as far as could be observed, were +unmixed with any different tribe, by occasional intercourse, subsequent +to their original settlement there; left entirely to their own powers +for every art of life, and to their own remote traditions for every +political or religions custom or institution; uninformed by science; +unimproved by education; in short, a fit soil from whence a careful +observer could collect facts for forming a judgment, how far unassisted +human nature will be apt to degenerate, and in what respects it can ever +be able to excel. Who could have thought, that the brutal ferocity of +feeding upon human flesh, and the horrid superstition of offering human +sacrifices, should be found to exist amongst the natives lately +discovered in the Pacific Ocean, who, in other respects, appear to be no +strangers to the fine feelings of humanity, to have arrived at a certain +stage of social life, and to be habituated to subordination and +government, which tend so naturally to repress the ebullitions of wild +passion, and expand the latent powers of the understanding? + +Or, if we turn from this melancholy picture, which will suggest copious +matter for philosophical speculation, can we, without astonishment, +observe to what a degree of perfection the same tribe (and indeed we may +here join, in some of those instances, the American tribes visited in +the course of the present voyage) have carried their favourite +amusements, the plaintive songs of their women, their dramatic +entertainments, their dances, their olympian games, as we may call them, +the orations of their chiefs, the chants of their priests, the solemnity +of their religious processions, their arts and manufactures, their +ingenious contrivances to supply the want of proper materials, and of +effective tools and machines, and the wonderful productions of their +persevering labour under a complication of disadvantages, their cloth +and their mats, their weapons, their fishing instruments, their +ornaments, their utensils, which in design and in execution may vie with +whatever modern Europe or classical antiquity can exhibit? + +It is a favourite study with the scholar to trace the remains of Grecian +or Roman workmanship; he turns over his Montfaucon with learned +satisfaction; and he gazes with rapture on the noble collection of Sir +William Hamilton. The amusement is rational and instructive. But will +not his curiosity be more awakened, will he not find even more real +matter for important reflection, by passing an hour in surveying the +numerous specimens of the ingenuity of our newly-discovered friends, +brought from the utmost recesses of the globe to enrich the British +Museum, and the valuable repository of Sir Ashton Lever? If the +curiosities of Sir Ashton's Sandwich-room alone were the only +acquisition gained by our visits to the Pacific Ocean, who, that has +taste to admire, or even eyes to behold, could hesitate to pronounce +that Captain Cook had not sailed in vain? The expence of his three +voyages did not, perhaps, far exceed that of digging out the buried +contents of Herculaneum. And we may add, that the novelties of the +Society or Sandwich Islands seem better calculated to engage the +attention of the studious in our times, than the antiquities which +exhibit proofs of Roman magnificence. + +The grounds for making this remark cannot be better explained, than in +the words of a very ingenious writer: " In an age," says Mr Warton,[57] +"advanced to the highest degree of refinement, that species of curiosity +commences, which is busied in contemplating the progress of social life, +in displaying the gradation of science, and in tracing the transition +from barbarism to civility. That these speculations should become the +favourite topics of such a period, is extremely natural. We look back on +the savage condition of our ancestors with the triumph of superiority; +and are pleased to mark the steps by which we have been raised from +rudeness to elegance; and our reflections on this subject are +accompanied with a conscious pride, arising, in a great measure, from a +tacit comparison of the infinite disproportion between the feeble +efforts of remote ages, and our present improvements in knowledge. In +the mean time, the manners, monuments, customs, practices, and opinions +of antiquity, by forming so strong a contrast with those of our own +times, and by exhibiting human nature and human inventions in new +lights, in unexpected appearances, and in various forms, are objects +which forcibly strike a feeling imagination. Nor does this spectacle +afford nothing more than a fruitless gratification to the fancy. It +teaches us to set a just estimation on our own acquisitions, and +encourages us to cherish that cultivation, which is so closely connected +with the existence and the exercise of every social virtue." We need not +here observe, that the manners, monuments, customs, practices, and +opinions of the present inhabitants of the Pacific Ocean, or of the west +side of North America, form the strongest contrast with those of our own +time in polished Europe; and that a feeling imagination will probably be +more struck with the narration of the ceremonies of a _Natche_ at +Tongataboo, than of a Gothic tournament at London; with the +contemplation of the colossuses of Easter Island, than of the mysterious +remains of Stonehenge.[58] + +[Footnote 57: Preface to his History of English Poetry.] + +[Footnote 58: This may be disputed, both in point of fact, and on +principles of reasoning. As to the first, the fact, let readers in +general enquire as to the comparative degree and frequency of attention +bestowed on the different kinds of topics alluded to by the doctor. What +is the conclusion from their observations on the subject? The writer for +one, does not hesitate to assert, that he is convinced, the evidence +bears against the opinion of the learned editor. So far as his notice +extends, it appears, that the fooleries of a superstitious age, the lies +of legendary fabulists, the incomprehensible relics of long-forgotten +delusions, really obtain more regard as objects of curiosity, than +whatever of ingenuity or labour is to be found in the history of +presently existing savages. Then again as to the reasons for such a +preference. Is there not a sort of fashionable taste for the productions +of antiquity, the want of which is quite unpardonable in our polished +and literary circles? Does not the attainment of this taste, in any +meritorious degree, by necessarily requiring much study, operate as +preclusive of information to the possession of which no peculiar epithet +of a commendatory nature has hitherto been awarded? Nay, is there not a +sort of prejudice allied to a notion of vulgarity, directed against +almost any shew of acquaintance with the habits and histories of +uncultivated nations? But it would be unpardonable to imagine, there +were not other reasons of a less invidious nature to explain the fact. +We must certainly be allowed to pay higher respect to the particular +concerns of those people with whom we stand in the light of offspring or +relatives, or whose transactions and fates have rendered the history of +the world what it is, almost superlatively important to every +intelligent mind. If time shall witness the triumph of civilization over +the savages of the southern hemisphere, then, it is highly probable, a +similar enthusiasm will prevail among their literary descendants; and +objects regarded by us as mere dust in the high road of nature, will be +enshrined with all the partiality and fondness of national +idolatry.--E.] + +Many singularities, respecting what may be called the natural history of +the human species, in different climates, will, on the authority of our +late navigators, open abundant sources for philosophical discussion. One +question of this sort, in particular, which had formerly divided the +opinions of the inquisitive, as to the existence, if not of "giants on +the earth," at least of a race, (inhabiting a district bordering on the +north side of the strait of Magalhaens,) whose stature considerably +exceeds that of the bulk of mankind, will no longer be doubted or +disbelieved. And the ingenious objections of the sceptical author of +_Recherches sur les Americains_,[59] will weigh nothing in the balance +against the concurrent and accurate testimony of Byron, Wallis, and +Carteret. + +[Footnote 59: Tom. i. p. 331.] + +Perhaps there cannot be a more interesting enquiry than to trace the +migrations of the various families or tribes that have peopled the +globe; and in no respect have our late voyages been more fertile in +curious discoveries. It was known in general, (and I shall use the words +of Kaempfer,[60]) that the Asiatic nation called Malayans "in former +times, had by much the greatest trade in the Indies, and frequented with +their merchant ships, not only all the coasts of Asia, but ventured even +over to the coasts of Africa, particularly to the great island of +Madagascar.[61] The title which the king of the Malayans assumed to +himself, of _Lord of the Winds and Seas to the East and to the West_, is +an evident proof of this; but much more the Malayan language, which +spread most all over the East, much after the same manner as formerly +the Latin, and of late the French, did all over Europe." Thus far, I +say, was known. But that from Madagascar to the Marqueses and Easter +Island, that is, nearly from the east side of Africa, till we approach +toward the west side of America, a space including above half the +circumference of the globe, the same tribe or nation, the Phoenicians, +as we may call them, of the oriental world, should have made their +settlements, and founded colonies throughout almost every intermediate +stage of this immense tract, in islands at amazing distances from the +mother continent, and ignorant of each other's existence; this is an +historical fact, which could be but very imperfectly known before +Captain Cook's two first voyages discovered so many new-inhabited spots +of land lurking in the bosom of the South Pacific Ocean; and it is a +fact which does not rest solely on similarity of customs and +institutions, but has been established by the most satisfactory of all +proofs, that drawn from affinity of language. Mr Marsden, who seems to +have considered this curious subject with much attention, says, "that +the links of the latitudinal chain remain yet to be traced."[40] The +discovery of the Sandwich Islands in this last voyage, has added some +links to the chain. But Captain Cook had not an opportunity of carrying +his researches into the more westerly parts of the North Pacific. The +reader, therefore, of the following work will not, perhaps, think that +the editor was idly employed when he subjoined some notes, which contain +abundant proof that the inhabitants of the Ladrones, or Marianne +islands, and those of the Carolines, are to be traced to the same common +source, with those of the islands visited by our ships. With the like +view of exhibiting a striking picture of the amazing extent of this +oriental language, which marks, if not a common original, at least an +intimate intercourse between the inhabitants of places so very remote +from each other, he has inserted a comparative table of their numerals, +upon a more enlarged plan than any that has hitherto been executed. + +[Footnote 60: History of Japan, vol. i. p. 93.] + +[Footnote 61: That the Malayans have not only frequented Madagascar, but +have also been the progenitors of some of the present race of +inhabitants there, is confirmed to us by the testimony of Monsieur de +Pages, who visited that island so late as 1774. "Ils m'ont paru provenir +des diverses races; leur couleur leur cheveux, et leur corps +l'indiquent. Ceux que je n'ai pas cru originaires des anciens naturels +du pays, sont petits et trapus; ils ont les cheveux presque unis, et +sont _olivatres comme les Malayes, avec qui ils ont, en general, une +espece de resemblance_."--_Voyages des M. des Pages_, tom. ii. p. +90.--D.] + +[Footnote 40: Archaeolog. vol. vi. p. 155. See also his History of +Sumatra, p. 166, from which the following passage is transcribed:-- +"Besides the Malaye, there are a variety of languages spoken in Sumatra, +which, however, have not only a manifest affinity among themselves, but +also to that general language which is found to prevail in, and to be +indigenous to, all the islands of the eastern seas; from Madagascar to +the remotest of Captain Cook's discoveries, comprehending a wider extent +than the Roman or any other tongue has yet boasted. In different places, +it has been more or less mixed and corrupted; but between the most +dissimilar branches, an eminent sameness of many radical words is +apparent; and in some very distant from each other, in point of +situation: As, for instance, the Philippines and Madagascar, the +deviation of the words is scarcely more than is observed in the dialects +of neighbouring provinces of the same kingdom."--D.] + +Our British discoverers have not only thrown a blaze of light on the +migrations of the tribe which has so wonderfully spread itself +throughout the islands in the eastern ocean, but they have also favoured +us with much curious information concerning another of the families of +the earth, whose lot has fallen in less hospitable climates. We speak of +the Esquimaux, hitherto only found seated on the coasts of Labradore and +Hudson's Bay, and who differ in several characteristic marks from the +inland inhabitants of North America. That the Greenlanders and they +agree in every circumstance of customs, and manners, and language, which +are demonstrations of an original identity of nation, had been +discovered about twenty years ago.[62] Mr Hearne, in 1771, traced this +unhappy race farther back, toward that part of the globe from whence +they had originally coasted along in their skin boats, having met with +some of them at the mouth of the Copper-mine River, in the latitude of +72 deg., and near five hundred leagues farther west than Pickersgill's most +westerly station in Davis's Strait. Their being the same tribe who now +actually inhabit the islands and coasts on the west side of North +America, opposite Kamtschatka, was a discovery, the completion of which +was reserved for Captain Cook. The reader of the following work will +find them at Norton Sound, and at Oonalashka and Prince William's Sound; +that is, near 1500 leagues distant from their stations in Greenland and +on the Labradore coast. And lest similitude of manners should be thought +to deceive us, a table exhibiting proofs of affinity of language, which +was drawn up by Captain Cook, and is inserted in this work, will remove +every doubt from the mind of the most scrupulous enquirer after +truth.[63] + +[Footnote 62: See Crantz's History of Greenland, vol. i. p. 262; where +we are told that the Moravian brethren, who, with the consent and +furtherance of Sir Hugh Palliser, then governor of Newfoundland, visited +the Esquimaux on the Labradore coast, found that their language, and +that of the Greenlanders, do not differ so much as that of the High and +Low Dutch.--D.] + +[Footnote 63: The Greenlanders, as Crantz tells us, call themselves +_Karalit_; a word not very unlike _Kanagyst_, the name assumed by the +inhabitants of Kodiack, one of the Schumagin islands, as Staehlin +informs us.--D.] + +There are other doubts of a more important kind, which, it may be hoped, +will now no longer perplex the ignorant, or furnish matter of cavil to +the ill-intentioned. After the great discovery, or at least the full +confirmation of the great discovery, of the vicinity of the two +continents of Asia and America, we trust that we shall not, for the +future, be ridiculed, for believing that the former could easily furnish +its inhabitants to the latter. And thus, to all the various good +purposes already enumerated, as answered by our late voyages, we may add +this last, though not the least important, that they have done service +to religion, by robbing infidelity of a favourite objection to the +credibility of the Mosaic account of the peopling of the earth.[64] + +[Footnote 64: A contempt of revelation is generally the result of +ignorance, conceited of its possessing superior knowledge. Observe how +the author of _Recherches Philosophiques sur les Americains_, expresses +himself on this very point. "Cette distance que Mr Antermony veut +trouver si peu impotante, est a-peu-pres _de huit cent lieus Gauleises +au travers d'un ocean perilleux_, et impossible a franchir avec des +canots aussi chetifs et aussi fragiles que le sont, au rapport d'Ysbrand +Ides, les chaloupes des Tunguses," &c. &c. t. i. p. 156. Had this writer +known that the two continents are not above thirteen leagues (instead of +eight hundred) distant from each other, and that, even in that narrow +space of sea, there are intervening islands, he would not have ventured +to urge this argument in opposition to Mr Bell's notion of the quarter +from which North America received its original inhabitants.--D. + +No intelligent reader needs to be informed, that a much closer approach +of the two continents of Asia and America than is here alleged to exist, +would be inadequate to account for the peopling of the latter, +throughout its immense extent and very important diversities of +appearance. The opinion is more plausible, and gains ground in the +world, that much of South America derived its original inhabitants from +the opposite coast of Africa. It is enough to state this opinion, +without occupying a moment's attention, in discussing the arguments +which can be adduced in its support. The truth of Revelation, it may be +remarked, is quite unaffected by the controversy, and, in fact, can +receive neither injury nor advantage from any decision that is given to +it. The real friends of that cause attach little importance to any +weight of human argument in its favour, and rest entirely on divine +evidence, for both the painful and the comfortable effects it produces +on their consciences. Any other, they are sure, may indeed furnish +matter for the display of ingenuity and learning, but will fall short of +that conviction which secures self-denied obedience to its +precepts.--E.] + +6. Hitherto we have considered our voyages as having benefited the +_discoverers_. But it will be asked, Have they conveyed, or are they +likely ever to convey, any benefit to the _discovered_? It would afford +exquisite satisfaction to every benevolent mind, to be instructed in +facts, which might enable us, without hesitation, to answer this +question in the affirmative. And yet, perhaps, we may indulge +the pleasing hope, that, even in this respect, our ships have not sailed +in vain. Other discoveries of new countries have, in effect, been wars, +or rather massacres; nations have been no sooner found out, than they +have been extirpated; and the horrid cruelties of the conquerors of +Mexico and Peru can never be remembered, without blushing for religion +and human nature. But when the recesses of the globe are investigated, +not to enlarge private dominion, but to promote general knowledge; when +we visit new tribes of our fellow-creatures as friends; and wish only to +learn that they exist, in order to bring them within the pale of the +offices of humanity, and to relieve the wants of their imperfect state +of society, by communicating to them our superior attainments; voyages +of discovery planned with such benevolent views by George the Third, and +executed by Cook, have not, we trust, totally failed in this respect. +Our repeated visits, and long-continued intercourse with the natives of +the Friendly, Society, and Sandwich Islands, cannot but have darted some +rays of light on the infant minds of those poor people. The uncommon +objects they have thus had opportunities of observing and admiring, will +naturally tend to enlarge their stock of ideas, and to furnish new +materials for the exercise of their reason. Comparing themselves with +their visitors, they cannot but be struck with the deepest conviction +of their own inferiority, and be impelled, by the strongest motives, to +strive to emerge from it, and to rise nearer to a level with those +children of the Sun, who deigned to look upon them, and left behind so +many specimens of their generous and humane attention. The very +introduction of our useful animals and vegetables, by adding fresh means +of subsistence, will have added to their comforts of life, and immediate +enjoyments; and if this be the only benefit they are ever to receive, +who will pronounce that much has not been gained? But may we not carry +our wishes and our hopes still farther? Great Britain itself, when, +first visited by the Phoenicians, was inhabited by painted savages, not, +perhaps, blessed with higher attainments than are possessed by the +present natives of New Zealand; certainly less civilized than those of +Tongataboo or Otaheite. Our having opened an intercourse with them, is +the first step toward their improvement. Who knows, but that our late +voyages may be the means appointed by Providence, of spreading, in due +time, the blessings of civilization amongst the numerous tribes of the +South Pacific Ocean; of abolishing their horrid repasts and their horrid +rites; and of laying the foundation for future and more effectual plans, +to prepare them for holding an honourable station amongst the nations of +the earth? This, at least, is certain, that our having, as it were, +brought them into existence by our extensive researches, will suggest to +us fresh motives of devout gratitude to the Supreme Being, for having +blessed us with advantages hitherto withheld from so great a proportion +of the human race; and will operate powerfully to incite us to persevere +in every feasible attempt, to be his instruments in rescuing millions of +fellow-creatures from their present state of humiliation.[65] + +[Footnote 65: It is painful to a liberal mind to question the basis of +any hope, or to doubt the validity of any expectations, in behalf of our +species. One would rather foster a mistaken benevolence, which, scorning +selfish interests, embraced the future welfare of distant and unknown +people, were it not that the indulgence of them might tend to prevent +the very object which they regard from being attained. Does not the +well-meaning editor anticipate too much from the diffusion of foreign +knowledge among the tribes of whom he speaks? Is he not somewhat +inattentive to the mass of inseparable evil which every such accession +brings along with it? Does he not seem to confound together the +acquisition of knowledge, and the ability to do what is requisite for +human happiness? May we not perceive by the very items of his +calculation, that he has neglected to consider that nice adjustment of +the faculty and the means of enjoyment, which evinces the general care +and universal affection of Providence? The consequence of such neglect +or mistake, would be an injudicious and hasty effort to induce what we +call civilization, on the too much commiserated objects of our +philanthropy. Without disputing for a moment, that the intercourse with +Europeans has proved beneficial to these people, though, as every +intelligent reader knows well, a thousand arguments would be thrown away +on an attempt to shew there was no occasion to do so, we may fairly +enough affirm, that such zealous exertions as are here virtually +recommended, are liable to the charge of being premature, and not +altogether according to knowledge. We are too apt to imagine that +barbarous people are easily made to believe their institutions and +manners are erroneous, or impolitic; and that they will accordingly +readily listen to the suggestions of those who, they acknowledge, are in +many respects superior to themselves. But, in fact, the very reverse is +the case, and it will ever be found that the simplest states of society +are least sensible of inconveniences, and therefore most averse to +innovation. Besides, it ought to be remembered, that, independent of any +adventitious assistance, there is implanted in every such society, how +contemptible soever it may seem to others, a certain principle of +amelioration, which never fails, in due time, to yield its fruit, and +which, there is some reason to apprehend, may receive detriment from +obtrusive solicitude to hasten its product. Every boy has within him the +seeds of manhood, which, at the period appointed by nature, germinate, +blossom, and fructify; but anxiety to accelerate the process too often +ruins the soil on which they grow, and mars the hopes of the cultivator, +by unseasonable maturity and rapid decay. So is it with societies. The +progress of human affairs on the large scale, is precisely similar to +what we daily witness on the small. It has been described, with equal +beauty and correctness, by the judicious Ferguson, in his Essays on the +History of Civil Society. "What was in one generation," says he, "a +propensity to herd with the species, becomes, in the ages which follow, +a principle of natural union. What was originally an alliance for common +defence, becomes a concerted plan of political force; the care of +subsistence becomes an anxiety for accumulating wealth, and the +foundation of commercial arts."--Who can say that the officiousness of +friendship is not likely to disorder the series, and, though it escape +the charge and the fate of presumption, is not deserving to be +considered as unnecessary enthusiasm?--E.] + + +The several topics which occurred, as suitable to this general +Introduction, being now discussed, nothing remains but to state a few +particulars, about which the reader of these volumes has a right to +expect some information. + +Captain Cook, knowing, before he sailed upon this last expedition, that +it was expected from him to relate, as well as to execute, its +operations, had taken care to prepare such a journal as might be made +use of for publication. This journal, which exists in his own +hand-writing, has been faithfully adhered to. It is not a bare extract +from his logbooks, but contains many remarks which, it appears, had not +been inserted by him in the nautical register; and it is also enriched +with considerable communications from Mr Anderson, surgeon of the +Resolution. The confessed abilities, and great assiduity, of Mr +Anderson, in observing every thing that related either to natural +history, or to manners and language, and the desire which, it is well +known, Captain Cook, on all occasions, shewed to have the assistance of +that gentleman, stamped a great value on his collections. That nothing, +therefore, might be wanting to convey to the public the best possible +account of the transactions of the voyage, his journal, by the order of +Lord Sandwich, was also put into the hands of the editor, who was +authorised and directed to avail himself of the information it might be +found to contain, about matters imperfectly touched, or altogether +omitted, in Captain Cook's manuscript. This task has been executed in +such a manner, that the reader will scarcely ever be at a loss to +distinguish in what instances recourse has been had to Mr Anderson. To +preclude, if possible, any mistake, the copy of the first and second +volumes, before it went to the printer, was submitted to Captain King; +and after it had been read over and corrected by one so well qualified +to point out any inaccuracies, the Earl of Sandwich had the goodness to +give it a perusal. As to the third volume, nothing more need be said, +than that it was completely prepared for the press by Captain King +himself. All that the editor of the work has to answer for, are the +notes occasionally introduced in the course of the two volumes +contributed by Captain Cook; and this Introduction, which was intended +as a kind of epilogue to our Voyages of Discovery. He must be permitted, +however, to say, that he considers himself as entitled to no +inconsiderable share of candid indulgence from the public; having +engaged in a very tedious and troublesome undertaking upon the most +disinterested motives; his only reward being the satisfaction he feels, +in having been able to do an essential service to the family of our +great navigator, who had honoured him, in the journal of this voyage, +with the appellation of friend. + +They who repeatedly asked why this publication was so long delayed, +needed only to look at the volumes, and their attendant illustrations +and ornaments, to be satisfied that it might, with at least equal +reason, be wondered at, that it was not delayed longer. The journal of +Captain Cook, from the first moment that it came into the hands of the +editor, had been ready for the press; and Captain King had left with +him his part of the narrative, so long ago as his departure for the West +Indies, when he commanded the Resistance man-of-war. But much, besides, +remained to be done. The charts, particularly the general one, were to +be prepared by Mr Roberts; the very numerous and elegant drawings of Mr +Webber were to be reduced by him to the proper size; artists were next +to be found out who would undertake to engrave them; the prior +engagements of those artists were to be fulfilled before they could +begin; the labour and skill to be exerted in finishing many of them, +rendered this a tedious operation; paper fit for printing them upon was +to be procured from abroad; and after all these various and unavoidable +difficulties were surmounted, much time was necessarily required for +executing a numerous impression of the long list of plates, with so much +care as might do justice both to Mr Webber, and to his several +engravers. + +And here it seems to be incumbent upon us to add, as another instance of +munificent attention, that care was taken to mark, in the most +significant manner, the just sense entertained of the human and liberal +relief afforded to our ships in Kamtachatka. Colonel Behm, the +commandant of that province, was not rewarded merely by the pleasure +which a benevolent mind feels in reflecting upon the blessings it +confers, but also thanked in a manner equally consistent with the +dignity of his own sovereign and of ours, to whose subjects he extended +protection. A magnificent piece of plate was presented to him, with an +inscription, worthy of a place in the same book where the history of his +humanity to our countrymen is recorded, and which, while it does honour +to our national gratitude, deserves also to be preserved as a monument +of our national taste for elegant composition. It is as follows: + + _VIRO EGREGIO MAGNO DE BEHM; _qui, Imperatricis Augustissimae + Catherinae auspiciis, summaque animi benignitate, saeva, quibus + praeerat, Kamtschatkae littora, navibus nautisque Britannicis, + hospita praebuit; eosque, in terminis, si qui essent Imperio + Russico, frustra explorandis, mula multa perpessos, iterata vice + excepit, refecit, recreavit, et commeatu omni cumulate auctos + dimisit_; REI NAVALIS BRITANNICAE SEPTEMVIRI _in aliquam + benevolentiae tam insignis memoriam, amicissimo, gratissimoque + animo, suo, patriaeque nomine_, D.D.D. MDCCLXXXI. + +This testimony of public gratitude, reminds the editor that there are +similar calls upon himself. He owes much to Captain King for his advice +and direction, in a variety of instances, where Captain Cook's journal +required explanation; for filling up several blanks with the proper +longitude and latitude; and for supplying deficiencies in the tables of +astronomical observations. + +Lieutenant Roberts was also frequently consulted, and was always found +to be a ready and effectual assistant, when any nautical difficulties +were to be cleared up. + +But particular obligations are due to Mr Wales, who, besides his +valuable communications for this Introduction, seconded most liberally +the editor's views of serving Mrs Cook, by cheerfully taking upon +himself the whole trouble of digesting, from the log-books, the tables +of the route of the ships, which add so greatly to the utility of this +publication. + +Mr Wegg, besides sharing in the thanks so justly due to the committee of +the Hudson's Bay Company, for their unreserved communications, was +particularly obliging to the editor, by giving him repeated +opportunities of conversing with Governor Hearne and Captain +Christopher. + +The Honourable Mr Daines Barrington had the goodness to interest +himself, with his usual zeal for every work of public utility, in +procuring some necessary information, and suggesting some valuable +hints, which were adopted. + +It would be great injustice not to express acknowledgements to Mr +Pennant, who, besides enriching the third volume with references to his +_Arctic Zoology_, the publication of which is an important accession to +natural history, also communicated some very authentic and satisfactory +manuscript accounts of the Russian discoveries. + +The vocabularies of the Friendly and Sandwich Islands, and of the +natives of Nootka, had been furnished to Captain Cook, by his most +useful associate in the voyage, Mr Anderson; and a fourth, in which the +language of the Esquimaux is compared with that of the Americans on the +opposite side of the continent, had been prepared by the captain +himself. But the comparative Table of Numerals was very obligingly drawn +up, at the request of the editor, by Mr Bryant, who, in his study, +followed Captain Cook, and, indeed, every traveller and historian, of +every age, into every part of the globe. The public will consider this +table as a very striking illustration of the wonderful migrations of a +nation, about whom so much additional information has been gained by our +voyages, and be ready to acknowledge it as a very useful communication. + +One more communication remains to be not only acknowledged, but to be +inserted at the close of this Introduction. The testimonies of learned +contemporaries, in commendation of a deceased author, are frequently +displayed in the front of his book. It is with the greatest propriety, +therefore, that we prefix to this posthumous work of Captain Cook, the +testimony of one of his own profession, not more distinguished by the +elevation of rank, than by the dignity of private virtues. As he wishes +to remain concealed, perhaps this allusion, for which we entreat his +indulgence, may have given too exact direction to the eyes of the public +where to look for such a character.[66] Let us, however, rest satisfied +with the intrinsic merit of a composition, conveyed under the injunction +of secrecy; and conclude our long preliminary dissertation with +expressing a wish, or rather a well-grounded hope, that this volume may +not be the only place where posterity can meet with a monumental +inscription, commemorative of a man, in recounting and applauding whose +services, the whole of enlightened Europe will equally concur with Great +Britain. + +[Footnote 66: This is understood to be spoken of the Honourable Admiral +Forbes, Admiral of the Fleet, and General of the Marines, to whom, on +the authority of Sir Hugh Palliser, the eulogium is ascribed in the +Biog. Brit. He is said to have known Cook only by his eminent merit and +extraordinary actions. The testimony, therefore, is the more to be +prized, as it cannot be charged with the partiality of friendship.--E.] + + +TO THE MEMORY OF + +CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, + +_The ablest and most renowned Navigator this or any other country hath +produced_. + + +He raised himself, solely by his merit, from a very obscure birth, to +the rank of Post Captain in the royal navy, and was, unfortunately, +killed by the savages of the island Owhyhee, on the 14th of February, +1779; which island he had, not long before, discovered, when prosecuting +his third voyage round the globe. + +He possessed, in an eminent degree, all the qualifications requisite for +his profession and great undertakings; together with the amiable and +worthy qualities of the best men. + +Cool and deliberate in judging; sagacious in determining; active in +executing; steady and persevering in enterprising vigilance and +unremitting caution; unsubdued by labour, difficulties, and +disappointments; fertile in expedients; never wanting presence of mind; +always possessing himself, and the full use of a sound understanding. + +Mild, just, but exact in discipline: He was a father to his people, who +were attached to him from affection, and obedient from confidence. + +His knowledge, his experience, his sagacity, rendered him so entirely +master of his subject, that the greatest obstacles were surmounted, and +the most dangerous navigations became easy, and almost safe, under his +direction. + +He explored the southern hemisphere to a much higher latitude than had +ever been reached, and with fewer accidents than frequently befal those +who navigate the coasts of this island. + +By his benevolent and unabating attention to the welfare of his ship's +company, he discovered and introduced a system for the preservation of +the health of seamen in long voyages, which has proved wonderfully +efficacious; for in his second voyage round the world, which continued +upwards of three years, he lost only one man by distemper, of one +hundred and eighteen, of which his company consisted. + +The death of this eminent and valuable man was a loss to mankind in +general; and particularly to be deplored by every nation that respects +useful accomplishments, that honours science, and loves the benevolent +and amiable affections of the heart. It is still more to be deplored by +this country, which may justly boast of having produced a man hitherto +unequalled for nautical talents; and that sorrow is farther aggravated +by the reflection, that his country was deprived of this ornament by the +enmity of a people, from whom, indeed, it might have been dreaded, but +from whom it was not deserved. For, actuated always by the most +attentive care and tender compassion for the savages in general, this +excellent man was ever assiduously endeavouring, by kind treatment, to +dissipate their fears, and court their friendship; overlooking their +thefts and treacheries, and frequently interposing, at the hazard of his +life, to protect them from the sudden resentment of his own injured +people. + +The object of his last mission was to discover and ascertain the +boundaries of Asia and America, and to penetrate into the northern ocean +by the north-east Cape of Asia. + +Traveller! contemplate, admire, revere, and emulate this great master in +his profession; whose skill and labours have enlarged natural +philosophy; have extended nautical science; and have disclosed the +long-concealed and admirable arrangements of the Almighty in the +formation of this globe, and, at the same time, the arrogance of +mortals, in presuming to account, by their speculations, for the laws by +which he was pleased to create it. It is now discovered, beyond all +doubt, that the same Great Being who created the universe by his _fiat_, +by the same ordained our earth to keep a just poise, without a +corresponding southern continent--and it does so! "He stretches out the +north over the empty place, and hangeth the earth upon nothing."--Job, +xxvi. 7. + +If the arduous but exact researches of this extraordinary man have not +discovered a new world, they have discovered seas unnavigated and +unknown before. They have made us acquainted with islands, people and +productions, of which we had no conception. And if he has not been so +fortunate as Americus to give his name to a continent, his pretensions +to such a distinction remain unrivalled; and he will be revered, while +there remains a page of his own modest account of his voyages, and as +long as mariners and geographers shall be instructed, by his new map of +the southern hemisphere, to trace the various courses and discoveries he +has made. + +If public services merit public acknowledgments; if the man who adorned +and raised the fame of his country is deserving of honours, then Captain +Cook deserves to have a monument raised to his memory, by a generous and +grateful nation. + + + Virtutis uberrimum alimentum est honos. + VAL. MAXIMUS, lib. ii. cap. 6. + + + + + + +COOK'S VOYAGE +TO +THE PACIFIC OCEAN. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +TRANSACTIONS FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE VOYAGE TILL OUR DEPARTURE FROM +NEW ZEALAND. + + +SECTION I. + +_Various Preparations for the Voyage.--Omais Behaviour on +embarking.--Observations for determining the Longitude of Sheerness, and +the North Foreland.--Passage of the Resolution from Deptford to +Plymouth.--Employments there.--Complements of the Crews of both Ships, +and Names of the Officers.--Observations to fix the Longitude of +Plymouth.--Departure of the Resolution._ + + +Having, on the 9th day of February, 1776, received a commission to +command his majesty's sloop the Resolution, I went on board the next +day, hoisted the pendant, and began to enter men. At the same time, the +Discovery, of three hundred tons burthen, was purchased into the +service, and the command of her given to Captain Clerke, who had been my +second lieutenant on board the Resolution, in my second voyage round the +world, from which we had lately returned. + +These two ships were, at this time, in the dock at Deptford, under the +hands of the shipwrights; being ordered to be equipped to make farther +discoveries in the Pacific Ocean, under my direction. + +On the 9th of March, the Resolution was hauled out of dock into the +river; where we completed her rigging, and took on board the stores and +provisions requisite for a voyage of such duration. Both ships, indeed, +were supplied with as much of every necessary article as we could +conveniently stow, and with the best of every kind that could be +procured. And, besides this, every thing that had been found, by the +experience acquired during our former extensive voyages, to be of any +utility in preserving the health of seamen, was supplied in abundance. + +It was our intention to have sailed to Long Reach on the 6th of May, +when a pilot came on board to carry us thither; but it was the 29th +before the wind would permit us to move, and the 30th before we arrived +at that station, where our artillery, powder, shot, and other ordnance +stores were received. + +While we lay in Long Reach, thus employed, the Earl of Sandwich, Sir +Hugh Palliser, and others of the Board of Admiralty, as the last mark of +the very great attention they had all along shewn to this equipment, +paid us a visit on the 8th of June, to examine whether every thing had +been completed conformably to their intentions and orders, and to the +satisfaction of all who were to embark in the voyage. They, and several +other noblemen and gentlemen their friends, honoured me with their +company at dinner on that day; and, on their coming on board, and also +on their going ashore, we saluted them with seventeen guns, and three +cheers. + +With the benevolent view of conveying some permanent benefit to the +inhabitants of Otaheite, and of the other islands in the Pacific Ocean, +whom we might happen to visit, his majesty having commanded some useful +animals to be carried out, we took on board, on the 10th, a bull, two +cows with their calves, and some sheep, with hay and corn for their +subsistence; intending to add to these other useful animals, when I +should arrive at the Cape of Good Hope. + +I was also, from the same laudable motives, furnished with a sufficient +quantity of such of our European garden-seeds, as could not fail to be a +valuable present to our newly discovered islands, by adding fresh +supplies of food to their own vegetable productions. + +Many other articles, calculated to improve the condition of our friends +in the other hemisphere in various ways, were, at the same time, +delivered to us by order of the Board of Admiralty. And both ships were +provided with a proper assortment of iron tools and trinkets, as the +means of enabling us to traffic, and to cultivate a friendly intercourse +with the inhabitants of such new countries as we might be fortunate +enough to meet with. + +The same humane attention was extended to our own wants. Some additional +clothing, adapted to a cold climate, was ordered for our crews; and +nothing was denied to us that could be supposed in the least conducive +to health, or even to convenience. + +Nor did the extraordinary care of those at the head of the naval +department stop here. They were equally solicitous to afford us every +assistance towards rendering our voyage of public utility. Accordingly, +we received on board, next day, several astronomical and nautical +instruments, which the Board of Longitude entrusted to me, and to Mr +King, my second lieutenant; we having engaged to that board to make all +the necessary observations, during the voyage, for the improvement of +astronomy and navigation; and, by our joint labours, to supply the place +of a professed observator. Such a person had been originally intended to +be sent out in my ship. + +The board, likewise, put into our possession the same watch, or +time-keeper, which I had carried out in my last voyage, and had +performed its part so well. It was a copy of Mr Harrison's, constructed +by Mr Kendall. This day, at noon, it was found to be too slow for mean +time at Greenwich, by 3' 31" 89; and by its rate of going, it lost, on +mean time, 1", 209 per day. + +Another time-keeper, and the same number and sort of instruments for +making observations, were put on board the Discovery, under the care of +Mr William Bayly; who, having already given satisfactory proofs of his +skill and diligence as an observator, while employed in Captain +Furneaux's ship, during the late voyage, was engaged a second time, in +that capacity, to embark with Captain Clerke. + +Mr Anderson, my surgeon, who, to skill in his immediate profession, +added great proficiency in natural history, was as willing as he was +well qualified, to describe every thing in that branch of science which +should occur worthy of notice. As he had already visited the South Sea +islands in the same ship, and been of singular service, by enabling me +to enrich my relation of that voyage with various useful remarks on men +and things,[67] I reasonably expected to derive considerable assistance +from him, in recording our new proceedings. + +[Footnote 67: The very copious vocabulary of the language of Otaheite, +and the comparative specimen of the languages of the several other +islands visited during the former voyage, and published in Captain +Cook's account of it, were furnished by Mr Anderson.--D.] + +I had several young men amongst my sea-officers, who, under my +direction, could be usefully employed in constructing charts, in taking +views of the coasts and headlands near which we should pass, and in +drawing plans of the bays and harbours in which we should anchor. A +constant attention to this I knew to be highly requisite, if we would +render our discoveries profitable to future navigators. + +And that we might go out with every help that could serve to make the +result of our voyage entertaining to the generality of readers, as well +as instructive to the sailor and scholar, Mr Webber was pitched upon, +and engaged to embark with me, for the express purpose of supplying the +unavoidable imperfections of written accounts, by enabling us to +preserve, and to bring home, such drawings of the most memorable scenes +of our transactions, as could only be executed by a professed and +skilful artist. + +Every preparation being now completed, I received an order to proceed to +Plymouth, and to take the Discovery under my command. I accordingly gave +Captain Clerke two orders, one to put himself under my command, and the +other, to carry his ship round to Plymouth. + +On the 15th the Resolution sailed from Long Reach, with the Discovery in +company, and the same evening they anchored at the Nore. Next day the +Discovery proceeded, in obedience to my order; but the Resolution was +ordered to remain at the Nore till I should join her, being at this time +in London. + +As we were to touch at Otaheite and the Society Islands in our way to +the intended scene of our fresh operations, it had been determined not +to omit this opportunity (the only one ever likely to happen) of +carrying Omai back to his native country. Accordingly, every thing being +ready for our departure, he and I set out together from London on the +24th, at six o'clock in the morning. We reached Chatham, between ten and +eleven o'clock; and, after dining with Commissioner Proby, he very +obligingly ordered his yacht to carry us to Sheerness, where my boat was +waiting to take us on board. + +Omai left London with a mixture of regret and satisfaction. When we +talked about England, and about those who, during his stay, had honoured +him with their protection or friendship, I could observe that his +spirits were sensibly affected, and that it was with difficulty he could +refrain from tears. But the instant the conversation turned to his own +islands, his eyes began to sparkle with joy. He was deeply impressed +with a sense of the good treatment he had met with in England, and +entertained the highest ideas of the country and of the people; but the +pleasing prospect he now had before him of returning home, loaded with +what he well knew would be esteemed invaluable treasures there, and the +flattering hope which the possession of these gave him, of attaining to +a distinguished superiority amongst his countrymen, were considerations +which operated, by degrees, to suppress every uneasy sensation; and he +seemed to be quite happy when he got on board the ship. + +He was furnished by his majesty with an ample provision of every article +which, during our intercourse with his country, we had observed to be in +any estimation there, either as useful or as ornamental. He had, +besides, received many presents of the same nature from Lord Sandwich, +Sir Joseph Banks, and several other gentlemen and ladies of his +acquaintance. In short, every method had been employed, both during his +abode in England, and at his departure, to make him the instrument of +conveying to the inhabitants of the islands of the Pacific Ocean, the +most exalted opinion of the greatness and generosity of the British +nation. + +While the Resolution lay at the Nore, Mr King made several observations +for finding the longitude by the watch. The mean of them all gave 0 deg. 44' +0" for the longitude of the ship. This, reduced to Sheerness, by the +bearing and estimated distance, will make that place to be 0 deg. 37' 0" E. +of Greenwich, which is more by seven miles than Mr Lyons made it by the +watch which Lord Mulgrave had with him, on his voyage toward the North +Pole. Whoever knows any thing of the distance between Sheerness and +Greenwich, will be a judge which of these two observations is nearest +the truth. + +The variation of the needle here, by a mean of different sets, taken +with different compasses, was 20 deg. 37' W. + +On the 25th, about noon, we weighed anchor, and made sail for the Downs +through the Queen's Channel, with a gentle breeze at N.W. by W. At nine +in the evening we anchored, with the North Foreland bearing S. by E. and +Margate Point S.W. by S. + +Next morning, at two o'clock, we weighed and stood round the Foreland; +and when it bore north by the compass, the watch gave 1 deg. 24' E. +longitude, which, reduced to the Foreland, will be 1 deg. 21' E. Lunar +observations made the preceding evening, fixed it at 1 deg. 20' E. At eight +o'clock the same morning we anchored in the Downs. Two boats had been +built for us at Deal, and I immediately sent on shore for them. I was +told that many people had assembled there to see Omai, but, to their +great disappointment, he did not land. + +Having received the boats on board, and a light breeze at S.S.E. +springing up, we got under sail the next day at two o'clock in the +afternoon; but the breeze soon died away, and we were obliged to anchor +again till ten o'clock at night. We then weighed with the wind at E. and +proceeded down the Channel. + +On the 30th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we anchored in Plymouth +Sound, where the Discovery had arrived only three days before. I saluted +Admiral Amherst, whose flag was flying on board the Ocean, with thirteen +guns, and he returned the compliment with eleven. + +It was the first object of our care on arriving at Plymouth, to replace +the water and provisions that we had expended, and to receive on board a +supply of port wine. This was the employment which occupied us on the +1st and 2d of July. + +During our stay here, the crews were served with fresh beef every day. +And I should not do justice to Mr Ommanney, the agent victualler, if I +did not take this opportunity to mention, that he shewed a very obliging +readiness to furnish me with the best of every thing that lay within his +department. I had been under the like obligations to him on my setting +out upon my last voyage. Commissioner Ourry, with equal zeal for the +service, gave us every assistance that we wanted from the naval yard. + +It could not but occur to us as a singular and affecting circumstance, +that at the very instant of our departure upon a voyage, the object of +which was to benefit Europe by making fresh discoveries in North +America, there should be the unhappy necessity of employing others of +his majesty's ships, and of conveying numerous bodies of land forces to +secure the obedience of those parts of that continent which had been +discovered and settled by our countrymen in the last century. On the 6th +his majesty's ships Diamond, Ambuscade, and Unicorn, with a fleet of +transports, consisting of sixty-two sail, bound to America, with the +last division of the Hessian troops, and some horse, were forced into +the Sound by a strong N.W. wind. + +On the 8th I received, by express, my instructions for the voyage, and +an order to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope with the Resolution. I was +also directed to leave an order for Captain Clerke to follow us as soon +as he should join his ship, he being at this time detained in London. + +Our first discoverers of the New World, and navigators of the Indian and +Pacific Oceans, were justly thought to have exerted such uncommon +abilities, and to have accomplished such perilous enterprises, that +their names have been handed down to posterity as so many Argonauts. +Nay, even the hulks of the ships that carried them, though not converted +into constellations in the heavens, used to be honoured and visited as +sacred relics upon earth. We, in the present age of improved navigation, +who have been instructed by their labours, and have followed them as our +guides, have no such claim to fame. Some merit, however, being still, in +the public opinion, considered as due to those who sail to unexplored +quarters of the globe; in conformity to this favourable judgment, I +prefixed to the account of my last voyage the names of the officers of +both my ships, and a table of the number of their respective crews. The +like information will be expected from me at present. + +The Resolution was fitted out with the same complement of officers and +men as she had before; and the Discovery's establishment varied from +that of the Adventure, in the single instance of her having no marine +officer on board. This arrangement was to be finally completed at +Plymouth; and on the 9th we received the party of marines allotted for +our voyage. Colonel Bell, who commanded the division at this port, gave +me such men for the detachment as I had reason to be satisfied with. And +the supernumerary seamen, occasioned by this reinforcement, being turned +over into the Ocean man-of-war, our several complements remained fixed, +as represented in the following table:-- + + + RESOLUTION. DISCOVERY. + + _Officers and Men. No. Officers No. Officers + Names Names_. + Captains, 1 James Cook. 1 Charles Clerke. + Lieutenants, 3 John Gore. 2 James Burney. + James King. John Rickman. + John Williamson. + Master, 1 William Bligh. 1 Thomas Edgar. + Boatswain, 1 William Ewin. 1 Aneas Atkins. + Carpenter, 1 James Clevely. 1 Peter Reynolds. + Gunner, 1 Robert Anderson. 1 William Peckover. + Surgeon, 1 William Anderson. 1 John Law. + Master's Mates, 3 2 + Midshipmen, 6 4 + Surgeon's Mates, 2 2 + Captain's Clerk, 1 1 + Master at Arms, 1 + Corporal, 1 + Armourer, 1 1 + Ditto Mate, 1 1 + Sail Maker, 1 1 + Ditto Mate, 1 1 + Boatswain's Mates, 3 2 + Carpenter's Ditto, 3 2 + Gunner's Ditto, 2 1 + Carpenter's Crew, 4 4 + Cook, 1 1 + Ditto Mate, 1 + Quarter Masters, 6 4 + Able Seamen, 45 33 + Marines. + Lieutenants, 1 Molesworth Philips. + Serjeant, 1 1 + Corporals, 2 1 + Drummer, 1 1 + Privates, 15 8 + + Total, 112 80 + +On the 10th, the commissioner and pay clerks came on board, and paid the +officers and crew up to the 30th of last month. The petty officers and +seamen had, besides, two months wages in advance. Such indulgence to the +latter is no more than what is customary in the navy. But the payment of +what was due to the superior officers was humanely ordered by the +Admiralty, in consideration of our peculiar situation, that we might be +better able to defray the very great expence of furnishing ourselves +with a stock of necessaries for a voyage which, probably, would be of +unusual duration, and to regions where no supply could be expected. + +Nothing now obstructing my departure but a contrary wind, which blew +strong at S.W., in the morning of the 11th, I delivered into the hands +of Mr Burney, first lieutenant of the Discovery, Captain Clerke's +sailing orders; a copy of which I also left with the officer commanding +his majesty's ships at Plymouth, to be delivered to the captain +immediately on his arrival. In the afternoon, the wind moderating, we +weighed with the ebb, and got farther out, beyond all the shipping in +the sound; where, after making an unsuccessful attempt to get to sea, we +were detained most of the following day, which was employed in receiving +on board a supply of water; and, by the same vessel that brought it, all +the empty casks were returned. + +As I did not imagine my stay at Plymouth would have been so long as it +proved, we did not get our instruments on shore to make the necessary +observations for ascertaining the longitude by the watch. For the same +reason, Mr Bayly did not set about this, till he found that the +Discovery would probably be detained some days after us. He then placed +his quadrant upon Drake's Island; and had time, before the Resolution +sailed, to make observations sufficient for the purpose we had in view. +Our watch made the island to lie 4 deg. 14', and his, 4 deg. 13 1/2', west of +Greenwich. Its latitude, as found by Messrs Wales and Bayly, on the last +voyage, is 50 deg. 21' 30" N. + +We weighed again at eight in the evening, and stood out of the sound, +with a gentle breeze at N.W. by W. + + +SECTION II. + +_Passage of the Resolution to Teneriffe.--Reception there.--Description +of Santa Cruz Road.--Refreshment to be met with.--Observations for +fixing the Longitude of Teneriffe.--Some Account of the +Island.--Botanical Observations.--Cities of Santa Cruz and +Loguna.--Agriculture.--Air and Climate.--Commerce.--Inhabitants_. + + +We had not been long out of Plymouth Sound, before the wind came more +westerly, and blew fresh, so that we were obliged to ply down the +Channel; and it was not till the 14th, at eight in the evening, that we +were off the Lizard. + +On the 16th, at noon, St Agnes's light-house on the isles of Scilly bore +N.W. by W., distant seven or eight miles. Our latitude was now 49 deg. 53' +30" N., and our longitude, by the watch, 6 deg. 11' W. Hence, I reckon that +St Agnes's light-house is in 49 deg. 57' 30" N. latitude, and in 6 deg. 20' of +W. longitude. + +On the 17th[68] and 18th we were off Ushant, and found the longitude of +the island to be, by the watch, 5 deg. 18' 37" W. The variation was 23 deg. 0' +50", in the same direction. + +[Footnote 68: It appears from Captain Cook's log-book, that he began his +judicious operations for preserving the health of his crew, very early +in the voyage. On the 17th, the ship was smoked between decks with +gunpowder. The spare sails also were then well aired.--D.] + +With a strong gale at S., on the 19th, we stood to the westward, till +eight o'clock in the morning; when the wind shifting to the W. and N.W., +we tacked and stretched to the southward. At this time, we saw nine sail +of large ships, which we judged to be French men-of-war. They took no +particular notice of us, nor we of them. + +At ten o'clock in the morning of the 22d, we saw Cape Ortegal; which at +noon bore S.E. 1/2 S., about four leagues distant. At this time we were +in the latitude of 44 deg. 6' N.; and our longitude, by the watch, was 8 deg. +23" W. + +After two days of calm weather, we passed Cape Finisterre on the +afternoon of the 24th, with a fine gale at N.N.E. The longitude of this +cape, by the watch, is 9 deg. 29' W.; and, by the mean of forty-one lunar +observations, made before and after we passed it, and reduced to it by +the watch, the result was 9 deg. 19' 12". + +On the 30th, at six minutes and thirty-eight seconds past ten o'clock at +night, apparent time, I observed, with a night telescope, the moon +totally eclipsed. By the _ephemeris_, the same happened at Greenwich at +nine minutes past eleven o'clock; the difference being one hour, two +minutes, and twenty-two seconds, or 15 deg. 35' 30" of longitude. The watch, +for the same time, gave 15 deg. 26' 45' longitude W.; and the latitude was +31 deg. 10' N. No other observation could be made on this eclipse, as the +moon was hid behind the clouds the greater part of the time; and, in +particular, when the beginning and end of total darkness, and the end of +the eclipse, happened. + +Finding that we had not hay and corn sufficient for the subsistence of +the stock of animals on board, till our arrival at the Cape of Good +Hope, I determined to touch at Teneriffe, to get a supply of these, and +of the usual refreshments for ourselves; thinking that island, for such +purposes, better adapted than Madeira. At four in the afternoon of the +31st, we saw Teneriffe, and steered for the eastern part. At nine, being +near it, we hauled up, and stood off and on during the night. + +At day-light, on the morning of the 1st of August, we sailed round the +east point of the island; and, about eight o'clock, anchored on the S.E. +side of it, in the road of Santa Cruz, in twenty-three fathoms water; +the bottom, sand and ooze. Punta de Nago, the east point of the road, +bore N. 64 deg. E.; St Francis's church, remarkable for its high steeple, +W.S.W.; the Pic, S. 65 deg. W.; and the S.W. point of the road, on which +stands a fort or castle, S. 39 deg. W. In this situation, we moored N.E. and +S.W. with a cable each way, being near half a mile from the shore. + +We found, riding in this road, La Boussole, a French frigate, commanded +by the Chevalier de Borda; two brigantines of the same nation; an +English brigantine from London, bound to Senegal; and fourteen sail of +Spanish vessels. + +No sooner had we anchored, than we were visited by the master of the +port, who satisfied himself with asking the ship's name. Upon his +leaving us, I sent an officer ashore, to present my respects to the +governor; and to ask his leave to take in water, and to purchase such +articles as we were in want of. All this he granted with the greatest +politeness; and, soon after, sent an officer on board, to compliment me +on my arrival. In the afternoon, I waited upon him in person, +accompanied by some of my officers; and, before I returned to my ship, +bespoke some corn and straw for the live stock; ordered a quantity of +wine from Mr McCarrick, the contractor, and made an agreement with the +master of a Spanish boat to supply us with water, as I found that we +could not do it ourselves. + +The road of Santa Cruz is situated before the town of the same name, on +the S.E. side of the island. It is, as I am told, the principal road of +Teneriffe, for shelter, capacity, and the goodness of its bottom. It +lies entirely open to the S.E. and S. winds. But these winds are never +of long continuance; and, they say, there is not an instance of a ship +driving from her anchors on shore.[69] This may, in part, be owing to +the great care they take in mooring them; for I observed, that all the +ships we met with, there, had four anchors out; two to the N.E., and two +to the S.W.; and their cables buoyed up with casks. Ours suffered a +little by not observing this last precaution. + +[Footnote 69: Though no such instance was known to those from whom +Captain Cook had this information, we learn from Glas, that some years +before he was at Teneriffe, almost all the shipping in the road were +driven on shore. See Glas's History of the Canary Islands, p. 235. We +may well suppose the precautions now used, have prevented any more such +accidents happening. This will sufficiently justify Captain Cook's +account.--- D.] + +At the S.W. part of the road, a stone pier runs out into the sea from +the town, for the convenience of loading and landing of goods. To this +pier, the water that supplies the shipping is conveyed. This, as also +what the inhabitants of Santa Cruz use, is derived from a rivulet that +runs from the hills, the greatest part of which comes into the town in +wooden spouts or troughs, that are supported by slender posts, and the +remainder doth not reach the sea; though it is evident, from the size of +the channel, that sometimes large torrents rush down. At this time these +troughs were repairing, so that fresh water, which is very good here, +was scarce. + +Were we to judge from the appearance of the country in the neighbourhood +of Santa Cruz, it might be concluded that Teneriffe is a barren spot, +insufficient to maintain even its own inhabitants. The ample supplies, +however, which we received, convinced as that they had enough to spare +for visitors. Besides wine, which is the chief produce of the island, +beef may be had at a moderate price. The oxen are small and bony, and +weigh about ninety pounds a quarter. The meat is but lean, and was, at +present, sold for half a bit (three-pence sterling) a pound. I, +unadvisedly, bought the bullocks alive, and paid considerably more. +Hogs, sheep, goats, and poultry, are likewise to be bought at the same +moderate rate; and fruits are in great plenty. At this time we had +grapes, figs, pears, mulberries, plantains, and musk-melons. There is a +variety of other fruits produced here, though not in season at this +time. Their pumpkins, onions, and potatoes, are exceedingly good of +their kind; and keep better at sea than any I ever before met with. + +The Indian corn, which is also their produce, cost me about three +shillings and sixpence a bushel; and the fruits and roots were, in +general, very cheap. They have not any plentiful supply of fish from the +adjoining sea; but a very considerable fishery is carried on by their +vessels upon the coast of Barbary: and the produce of it sells at a +reasonable price. Upon the whole, I found Teneriffe to be a more +eligible place than Madeira, for ships bound on long voyages to touch +at; though the wine of the latter, according to my taste, is as much +superior to that of the former, as strong beer is to small. To +compensate for this, the difference of prices is considerable; for the +best Teneriffe wine was now sold for twelve pounds a pipe; whereas a +pipe of the best Madeira would have cost considerably more than double +that sum.[70] + +[Footnote 70: Formerly, there was made at Teneriffe a great quantity of +Canary sack, which the French call _Vin de Malvesie_; and we, corruptly +after them, name Malmsey (from Malvesia, a town in the Morea, famous for +such luscious wine). In the last century, and still later, much of this +was imported into England; but little wine is now made there, but of the +sort described by Captain Cook. Not more than fifty pipes of the rich +Canary were annually made in Glas's time; and he says, they now gather +the grapes when green, and make a dry hard wine of them, fit for hot +climates, p. 262.--D.] + +The Chevalier De Borda, commander of the French frigate now lying in +Santa Cruz road, was employed, in conjunction with Mr Varila, a Spanish +gentleman, in making astronomical observations for ascertaining the +going of two time-keepers which they had on board their ship. For this +purpose, they had a tent pitched on the pier head, where they made their +observations, and compared their watches, every day at noon, with the +clock on shore, by signals. These signals the chevalier very obligingly +communicated to us; so that we could compare our watch at the same time. +But our stay was too short, to profit much by his kindness. + +The three days comparisons which we made, assured us that the watch had +not materially, if at all, altered her rate of going; and gave us the +same longitude, within a very few seconds, that was obtained by finding +the time from observations of the sun's altitude from the horizon of the +sea. The watch, from a mean of these observations, on the 1st, 2d, and +3d of August, made the longitude 16 deg. 31' W.; and, in like manner, the +latitude was found to be 28 deg. 30' 11" N. + +Mr Varila informed us, that the true longitude was 18 deg. 35' 30", from +Paris, which is only 16 deg. 16' 30" from Greenwich; less than what our +watch gave by 14' 30". But, far from looking upon this as an error in +the watch, I rather think it a confirmation of its having gone well; and +that the longitude by it may be nearer the truth than any other. It is +farther confirmed by the lunar observations that we made in the road, +which gave 16 deg. 37' 10". Those made before we arrived, and reduced to the +road by the watch, gave 16 deg. 33' 30"; and those made after we left it, +and reduced back in the same manner, gave 16 deg. 28'. The mean of the three +is 16 deg. 30' 40". + +To reduce these several longitudes, and the latitude, to the Pic of +Teneriffe, one of the most noted points of land with geographers, (to +obtain the true situation of which, I have entered into this particular +discussion,) I had recourse to the bearing, and a few hours of the +ship's run after leaving Santa Cruz road; and found it to be 12' 11" S. +of the road, and 29' 30" of longitude W. of it. As the base, which +helped to determine this, was partly estimated, it is liable to some +error; but I think I cannot be much mistaken. Dr Maskelyne, in his +_British Mariner's Guide_, places the Pic in the latitude of 28 deg. 12' +54". This, with the bearing from the road, will give the difference of +longitude 43', which considerably exceeds the distance they reckon the +Pic to be from Santa Cruz. I made the latitude of the Pic to be 28 deg. 18' +N. Upon that supposition, its longitude will be as follows: + + {The time-keeper, 17 deg. 0' 30" } + By {Lunar observations, 16 deg. 30' 20"} W. + {Mr Varila, 16 deg. 46' 0" } + +But if the latitude of it is 28 deg. 12' 54", as in the _British Mariner's +Guide_, its longitude will be 13 deg. 30' more westerly. + +The variation, when we were at anchor in the road, by the mean of all +our compasses, was found to be 14 deg. 41' 20" W. The dip of the N. end of +the needle was 61 deg. 52' 30". + +Some of Mr Anderson's remarks on the natural appearances of Teneriffe, +and its productions, and what he observed himself, or learnt by +information, about the general state of the island, will be of use, +particularly in marking what changes may have happened there since Mr +Glas visited it. They here follow in his own words: + +"While we were standing in for the land, the weather being perfectly +clear, we had an opportunity of seeing the celebrated Pic of Teneriffe. +But, I own, I was much disappointed in my expectation with respect to +its appearance. It is, certainly, far from equalling the noble figure of +Pico, one of the western isles which I have seen; though its +perpendicular height may be greater. This circumstance, perhaps, arises +from its being surrounded by other very high hills; whereas Pico stands +without a rival." + +"Behind the city of Santa Cruz, the country rises gradually, and is of a +moderate height. Beyond this, to the south-westward, it becomes higher, +and continues to rise toward the Pic, which, from the road, appears but +little higher than the surrounding hills. From thence it seems to +decrease, though not suddenly, as far as the eye can reach. From a +supposition that we should not stay above one day, I was obliged to +contract my excursions into the country; otherwise, I had proposed to +visit the top of this famous mountain."[71] + +[Footnote 71: See an account of a journey to the top of the Pic of +Teneriffe, in Sprat's History of the Royal Society, p.200, &c. Glas also +went to the top of it.--History of the Canary Islands, p. 252 to 259. In +the Philosophical Transactions, vol. xlvii. p. 353-356, we have +observations made, in going up the Pic of Teneriffe, by Dr T. Heberden. +The doctor makes its height, above the level of the sea, to be 2566 +fathoms, or 15,396 English feet; and says, that this was confirmed by +two subsequent observations by himself, and another made by Mr Crosse, +the consul. And yet I find that the Chevalier de Borda, who measured the +height of this mountain in August 1776, makes it to be only 1931 French +toises, or 12,340 English feet. See Dr Forster's Observations during a +Voyage round the World, p. 32.--D.] + +"To the eastward of Santa Cruz, the island appears perfectly barren. +Ridges of hills run toward the sea; between which ridges are deep +valleys, terminating at mountains or hills that ran across, and are +higher than the former. Those that run toward the sea, are marked by +impressions on their sides, which make them appear as a succession of +conic hills, with their tops very rugged. The higher ones that run +across, are more uniform in their appearance." + +"In the forenoon of the 1st of August, after we had anchored in the +road, I went on shore to one of these valleys, with an intention to +reach the top of the remoter hills, which seemed covered with wood; but +time would not allow me to get farther than their foot. After walking +about three miles, I found no alteration in the appearance of the lower +hills, which produce great quantities of the _euphorbia Canariensis_. It +is surprising that this large succulent plant should thrive on so +burnt-up a soil. When broken which is easily done, the quantity of juice +is very great; and it might be supposed that, when dried, it would +shrivel to nothing; yet it is a pretty tough, though soft and light +wood. The people here believe its juice to be so caustic as to erode the +skin;[72] but I convinced them, though with much difficulty, to the +contrary, by thrusting my finger into the plant full of it, without +afterward wiping it off. They break down the bushes of _euphorbia_, and, +suffering them to dry, carry them home for fuel. I met with nothing else +growing there, but two or three small shrubs, and a few fig-trees near +the bottom of the valley." + +[Footnote 72: Glas, p. 231, speaking of this plant, says, "that he +cannot imagine why the natives of the Canaries do not extract the juice, +and use it instead of pitch, for the bottoms of their boats." We now +learn from Mr Anderson their reason for not using it,--D]. + +"The basis of the hills is a heavy, compact, bluish stone, mixed with +some shining particles; and, on the surface, large masses of red friable +earth, or stone, are scattered about. I also often found the same +substance disposed in thick strata; and the little earth, strewed here +and there, was a blackish mould. There were likewise some pieces of +slag; one of which, from its weight and smooth surface, seemed almost +wholly metalline." + +"The mouldering state of these hills is, doubtless, owing to the +perpetual action of the sun, which calcines their surface. This +mouldered part being afterward washed away by the heavy rains, perhaps +is the cause of their sides being so uneven. For, as the different +substances of which they are composed, are more or less easily affected +by the sun's heat, they will be carried away in the like proportions. +Hence, perhaps, the tops of the hills, being of the hardest rock, have +stood, while the other parts on a declivity have been destroyed. As I +have usually observed, that the tops of most mountains that are covered +with trees have a more uniform appearance, I am inclined to believe that +this is owing to their being shaded." + +"The city of Santa Cruz, though not large, is tolerably well built. The +churches are not magnificent without; but within are decent, and +indifferently ornamented. They are inferior to some of the churches at +Madeira; but I imagine this rather arises from the different disposition +of the people, than from their inability to support them better. For the +private houses, and dress of the Spanish inhabitants of Santa Cruz, are +far preferable to those of the Portuguese at Madeira; who, perhaps, are +willing to strip themselves, that they may adorn their churches." + +"Almost facing the stone pier at the landing-place, is a handsome marble +column lately put up, ornamented with some human figures, that do no +discredit to the artist; with an inscription in Spanish, to commemorate +the occasion of the erection, and the date." + +"In the afternoon of the 2d, four of us hired mules to ride to the city +of Laguna,[73] so called from an adjoining lake, about four miles from +Santa Cruz. We arrived there between five and six in the evening; but +found a sight of it very unable to compensate for our trouble, as the +road was very bad, and the mules but indifferent. The place is, indeed, +pretty extensive, but scarcely deserves to be dignified with the name of +city. The disposition of its streets is very irregular; yet some of them +are of a tolerable breadth, and have some good houses. In general, +however, Laguna is inferior in appearance to Santa Cruz, though the +latter is but small, if compared with the former. We are informed, +likewise, that Laguna is declining fast; there being, at present, some +vineyards where houses formerly stood; whereas Santa Cruz is increasing +daily." + +[Footnote 73: Its extended name is St Christobal de la Laguna; and it +used to be reckoned the capital of the island, the gentry and lawyers +living there; though the governor-general of the Canary Islands resides +at Santa Cruz, as being the centre of their trade, both with Europe and +America. See Glas's History, p. 248.--D.] + +"The road leading from Santa Cruz to Laguna runs up a steep hill, which +is very barren; but, lower down, we saw some fig-trees, and several corn +fields. These are but small, and not thrown into ridges, as is practised +in England. Nor does it appear that they can raise any corn here without +great labour, as the ground is so encumbered with stones, that they are +obliged to collect and lay them in broad rows, or walls, in small +distances. The large hills that run to the S.W., appeared to be pretty +well furnished with trees. Nothing else worth noticing presented itself +during this excursion, except a few aloe plants in flower, near the side +of the road, and the cheerfulness of our guides, who amused us with +songs by the way." + +"Most of the laborious work in this island is performed by mules; horses +being to appearance scarce, and chiefly reserved for the use of the +officers. They are of a small size, but well shaped and spirited. Oxen +are also employed to drag their casks along upon a large clumsy piece of +wood; and they are yoked by the head, though it doth not seem that this +has any peculiar advantage over our method of fixing the harness on the +shoulders. In my walks and excursions I saw some hawks, parrots which +are natives of the island, the sea-swallow or tern, sea-gulls, +partridges, wagtails, swallows, martins, blackbirds, and Canary-birds in +large flocks. There are also lizards of the common, and another sort; +some insects, as locusts; and three or four sorts of dragon flies." + +"I had an opportunity of conversing with a sensible and well-informed +gentleman residing here, and whose veracity I have not the least reason +to doubt. From him I learnt some particulars, which, during the short +stay of three days, did not fall within my own observation. He informed +me, that a shrub is common here, agreeing exactly with the description +given by Tournefort and Linnaeus, of the tea shrub, as growing in China +and Japan. It is reckoned a weed, and he roots out thousands of them +every year from his vineyards. The Spaniards, however, of the island, +sometimes use it as tea, and ascribe to it all the qualities of that +imported from China. They also give it the name of tea; but what is +remarkable, they say it was found here when the islands were first +discovered." + +"Another botanical curiosity, mentioned by him, is what they call the +impregnated lemon.[74] It is a perfect and distinct lemon, inclosed +within another, differing from the outer one only in being a little more +globular. The leaves of the tree that produces this sort, are much +longer than those of the common one; and it was represented to me as +being crooked, and not equal in beauty." + +[Footnote 74: The writer of the Relation of Teneriffe, in Sprat's +History, p. 207, takes notice of this lemon as produced here, and calls +it _Pregnada_. Probably, _emprennada_, the Spanish word for impregnated, +is the name it goes by.--D.] + +"From him I learnt also, that a certain sort of grape growing here, is +reckoned an excellent remedy in phthisical complaints; and the air and +climate, in general, are remarkably healthful, and particularly adapted +to give relief in such diseases. This he endeavoured to account for, by +its being always in one's power to procure a different temperature of +the air, by residing at different heights in the island; and he +expressed his surprise that the English physicians should never have +thought of sending their consumptive patients to Teneriffe, instead of +Nice or Lisbon. How much the temperature of the air varies here, I +myself could sensibly perceive, only in riding from Santa Cruz up to +Laguna; and you may ascend till the cold becomes intolerable. I was +assured that no person can live comfortably within a mile of the +perpendicular height of the Pic, after the month of August."[75] + +[Footnote 75: This agrees with Dr T. Heberden's account, who says that +the sugar-loaf part of the mountain, or _la pericosa_, (as it is +called,) which is an eighth part of a league (or 1980 feet) to the top, +is covered with snow the greatest part of the year. See Philosophical +Transactions, as quoted above.--D.] + +"Although some smoke constantly issues from near the top of the Pic, +they have had no earthquake or eruption of a volcano since 1704, when +the port of Garrachica, where much of their trade was formerly carried +on, was destroyed."[76] + +[Footnote 76: This port was then filled up by the rivers of burning lava +that flowed into it from a volcano; insomuch that houses are now built +where ships formerly lay at anchor. See Glas's History, p. 244.--D.] + +"Their trade, indeed, must be considered as very considerable; for they +reckon that forty thousand pipes of wine are annually made, the +greatest part of which is either consumed in the island, or made into +brandy, and sent to the Spanish West Indies.[77] About six thousand +pipes were exported every year to North America, while the trade with it +was uninterrupted; at present, they think not above half the quantity. +The corn they raise is, in general, insufficient to maintain the +inhabitants; but the deficiency used to be supplied by importation from +the North Americans, who took their wines in return." + +[Footnote 77: Glas, p. 342, says, that they annually export no less than +fifteen thousand pipes of wine and brandy. In another place, p. 252, he +tells us, that the number of the inhabitants of Teneriffe, when the last +account was taken, was no less than 96,000. We may reasonably suppose +that there has been a considerable increase of population since Glas +visited the island, which is above thirty years ago. The quantity of +wine annually consumed, as the common beverage of at least one hundred +thousand persons, must amount to several thousand pipes. There must be a +vast expenditure of it, by conversion into brandy; to produce one pipe +of which, five or six pipes of wine must be distilled. An attention to +these particulars will enable every one to judge, that the account given +to Mr Anderson, of an annual produce of 40,000 pipes of wine, has a +foundation in truth.--D.] + +"They make a little silk; but unless we reckon the filtering-stones, +brought in great numbers from Grand Canary, the wine is the only +considerable article of the foreign commerce of Teneriffe.' + +"None of the race of inhabitants found here when the Spaniards +discovered the Canaries, now remain a distinct people;[78] having +intermarried with the Spanish settlers; but their descendants are known, +from their being remarkably tall, large-boned, and strong. The men are, +in general, of a tawny colour, and the women have a pale complexion, +entirely destitute of that bloom which distinguishes our northern +beauties. The Spanish custom of wearing black clothes continues amongst +them; but the men seem more indifferent about this, and in some measure +dress like the French. In other respects, we found the inhabitants of +Teneriffe to be a decent and very civil people, retaining that grave +cast which distinguishes those of their country from other European +nations. Although we do not think that there is a great similarity +between our manners and those of the Spaniards, it is worth observing, +that Omai did not think there was much difference. He only said, 'that +they seemed not so friendly as the English; and that, in their persons, +they approached those of his countrymen.'" + +[Footnote 78: It was otherwise in Glas's time, when a few families of +the _Guanches_ (as they are called) remained still in Teneriffe, not +blended with the Spaniards. Glas, p. 240.--D.] + + +SECTION III. + +_Departure from Teneriffe.--Danger of the Ship near Bonavista.--Isle of +Mayo.--Port Praya.--Precautions against the Rain and sultry Weather in +the Neighbourhood of the Equator.--Position of the Coast of +Brazil.--Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope.--Transactions +there.--Junction of the Discovery.--Mr Anderson's Journey up the +Country.--Astronomical Observations,--Nautical Remarks on the Passage +from England to the Cape, with regard to the Currents and the +Variation_. + + +Having completed our water, and got on board every other thing we wanted +at Teneriffe, we weighed anchor on the 4th of August, and proceeded on +our voyage, with a fine gale at N.E. + +At nine o'clock in the evening on the 10th,[79] we saw the island of +Bonavista bearing south, distant little more than a league; though, at +this time, we thought ourselves much farther off: But this proved a +mistake. For, after hauling to the eastward till twelve o'clock, to +clear the sunken rocks that lie about a league from the S.E. point of +the island, we found ourselves, at that time, close upon them, and did +but just weather the breakers. Our situation, for a few minutes, was +very alarming. I did not choose to sound, as that might have heightened +the danger, without any possibility of lessening it. I make the north +end of the island of Bonavista to lie in the latitude of 16 deg. 17' N., and +in the longitude of 22 deg. 59' W. + +[Footnote 79: As a proof of Captain Cook's attention, both to the +discipline and to the health of his ship's company, it may be worth +while to observe here, that it appears from his log-book, he exercised +them at great guns and small arms, and cleaned and smoked the ship +betwixt decks, twice in the interval between the 4th and the 10th of +August.--D.] + +As soon as we were clear of the rocks, we steered S.S.W., till day-break +next morning, and then hauled to the westward, to go between Bonavista +and the isle of Mayo, intending to look into Port Praya for the +Discovery, as I had told Captain Clerke that I should touch there, and +did not know how soon he might sail after me. At one in the afternoon, +we saw the rocks that lie on the S.W. side of Bonavista, bearing S.E., +distant three or four leagues. + +Next morning, at six o'clock, the isle of Mayo bore S.S.E., distant +about five leagues. In this situation we sounded, and found ground at +sixty fathoms. At the same time the variation, by the mean of several +azimuths taken with three different compasses, was 9 deg. 32 1/2' W. At +eleven o'clock, one extreme of Mayo bore E. by N., and the other S.E. by +S. In this position, two roundish hills appeared near its N.E. part; +farther on, a large and higher hill; and, at about two-thirds of its +length, a single one that is peaked. At the distance we now saw this +island, which was three or four miles, there was not the least +appearance of vegetation, nor any relief to the eye from that lifeless +brown which prevails in countries under the Torrid Zone that are +unwooded. + +Here I cannot help remarking that Mr Nichelson, in his Preface to +"Sundry Remarks and Observations made in a Voyage to the East +Indies,"[80] tells us, that "with eight degrees west variation, or any +thing above that, you may venture to sail by the Cape de Verde Islands +night or day, being well assured, with that variation, that you are to +the eastward of them." Such an assertion might prove of dangerous +consequence, were there any that would implicitly trust to it. We also +tried the current, and found one setting S.W. by W., something more than +half a mile an hour. We had reason to expect this, from the differences +between the longitude given by the watch and dead reckoning, which, +since our leaving Teneriffe, amounted to one degree. + +[Footnote 80: On board his majesty's ship Elizabeth, from 1758 to 1764; +by William Nichelson, master of the said ship.--London, 1773.] + +While we were amongst these islands, we had light breezes of wind, +varying from the S.E. to E., and some calms. This shews that the Cape de +Verde islands are either extensive enough to break the current of the +trade wind, or that they are situated just beyond its verge, in that +space where the variable winds, found on getting near the Line, begin. +The first supposition, however, is the most probable, as Dampier found +the wind westerly here in the month of February; at which time the trade +wind is supposed to extend farthest toward the equinoctial.[81] The +weather was hot and sultry, with some rain; and, for the most part, a +dull whiteness prevailed in the sky, that seems a medium between fog and +clouds. In general, the tropical regions seldom enjoy that clear +atmosphere observable where variable winds blow; nor does the sun shine +with such brightness. This circumtance, however, seems an advantage; for +otherwise, perhaps, the rays of the sun, being uninterrupted, would +render the heat quite unsupportable. The nights are, nevertheless, often +clear and serene. + +[Footnote 81: Dampier's Voyages, vol. iii. p.10.--Captain Krusenstern +appears to be of the same opinion, as to the Cape de Verde islands being +of sufficient magnitude to alter the direction of the trade winds, +remarking that S.W. winds are frequently met with there, and that if +they are not, the wind is always very moderate in their vicinity. He +recommends vessels, on their passage to the equator, to take their +course to the westward of these islands, so as to cross the parallel of +17 deg., or that of the island of Antonio in 26-1/2 deg., or even that of 27 deg., +and then to steer S.E. by S. directly to the equator. He further +advises, that, if possible, the passage of the Line be effected in 20 deg. +or 21 deg., as then there is the advantage of a directly free wind as soon +as the S.E. trade sets in, and of course the ship gets quicker to the +southward. But this can rarely be done. He himself crossed the equator +in 24 deg. 20' W., after a passage of thirty days from Santa Cruz. Ships, he +informs us, when crossing in a more westerly direction than 25 deg. and 26 deg., +have been driven by strong currents, and a too southerly trade wind, so +near the coast of Brazil, as not to be able to clear Cape St Augustin. +The present opportunity is taken of mentioning, that this very cautious +and intelligent navigator agrees, in general, with Cook, as to +Nichelson's rule. "His instructions for crossing the Line, on the voyage +to India, with 6 deg. 30' and 7 deg. 00' west variation, but in returning to +Europe, with eight degrees, might have been of use forty years ago, when +the method of finding the longitude at sea by distances of the sun and +moon was known to very few navigators, and for a time no great error was +committed by pursuing them; but at present a variation of seven degrees +would hardly be found on the coast of Africa."--The reason is, as the +scientific reader must know, that the variation has been on the western +increase since the period alluded to. Thus Nichelson found it at St +Helena, in 1764, to be 11 deg. 38', and Captain Krusenstern, in 1806, a +space of forty-two years, 17 deg. 18' 10".--E.] + + +At nine o'clock in the morning of the 13th, we arrived before Port +Praya, in the island of St Jago, where we saw two Dutch East India +ships, and a small brigantine, at anchor. As the Discovery was not +there, and we had expended but little water in our passage from +Teneriffe, I did not think proper to go in, but stood to the southward. +Some altitudes of the sun were now taken, to ascertain the true time. +The longitude by the watch, deduced therefrom, was 23 deg. 48' west; the +little island in the bay bore W.N.W., distant near three miles, which +will make its longitude 23 deg. 51'. The same watch, on my late voyage, made +the longitude to be 23 deg. 30' W.; and we observed the latitude to be 14 deg. +53' 30" N. + +The day after we left the Cape de Verde islands, we lost the N.E. trade +wind; but did not get that which blows from the S.E. till the 30th, when +we were in the latitude of 2 deg. north, and in the twenty-fifth degree of +west longitude. + +During this interval,[82] the wind was mostly in the S.W. quarter. +Sometimes it blew fresh, and in squalls; but for the most part a gentle +breeze. The calms were few, and of short duration. Between the latitude +of 12 deg. and of 7 deg. N., the weather was generally dark and gloomy, with +frequent rains, which enabled us to save as much water as filled most of +our empty casks. + +[Footnote 82: On the 18th, I sunk a bucket with a thermometer seventy +fathoms below the surface of the sea, where it remained two minutes; and +it took three minutes more to haul it up. The mercury in the thermometer +was at 66, which before, in the air, stood at 78, and in the surface of +the sea at 79. The water which came up in the bucket, contained, by Mr +Cavendish's table, 1/25, 7 part salt; and that at the surface of the sea +1/29, 4. As this last was taken up after a smart shower of rain, it +might be lighter on that account.--_Captain Cook's log-book_.] + +These rains, and the close sultry weather accompanying them, too often +bring on sickness in this passage. Every bad consequence, at least, is +to be apprehended from them; and commanders of ships cannot be too much +upon their guard, by purifying the air between decks with fires and +smoke, and by obliging the people to dry their clothes at every +opportunity. These precautions were constantly observed on board the +Resolution[83] and Discovery; and we certainly profited by them, for we +had now fewer sick than on either of my former voyages. We had, however, +the mortification to find our ship exceedingly leaky in all her upper +works. The hot and sultry weather we had just passed through, had opened +her seams, which had been badly caulked at first, so wide, that they +admitted the rain-water through as it fell. There was hardly a man that +could lie dry in his bed; and the officers in the gun-room were all +driven out of their cabins, by the water that came through the sides. +The sails in the sail-room got wet; and before we had weather to dry +them, many of them were much damaged, and a great expence of canvas and +of time became necessary to make them in some degree serviceable. Having +experienced the same defect in our sail-rooms on my late voyage, it had +been represented to the yard-officers, who undertook to remove it. But +it did not appear to me that any thing had been done to remedy the +complaint. To repair these defects the caulkers were set to work, as +soon as we got into fair and settled weather, to caulk the decks and +inside weather-works of the ship; for I would not trust them over the +sides while we were at sea. + +[Footnote 83: The particulars are mentioned in his log-book. On the 14th +of August a fire was made in the well, to air the ship below. On the +15th, the spare sails were aired upon deck, and a fire made to air the +sail-room. On the 17th, cleaned and smoked betwixt decks, and the +bread-room aired with fires. On the 21st, cleaned and smoked betwixt +decks; and on the 22d, the men's bedding was spread on deck to air.--D.] + +On the first of September[84] we crossed the equator, in the longitude +of 27 deg. 38' W., with a fine gale at S.E. by S.; and notwithstanding my +apprehensions of falling in with the coast of Brazil in stretching to +the S.W., I kept the ship a full point from the wind. However, I found +my fears were ill-grounded; for on drawing near that coast, we met with +the wind more and more easterly; so that, by the time we were in the +latitude of 10 deg. S., we could make a south-easterly course good. + +[Footnote 84: The afternoon, as appears from Mr Anderson's Journal, was +spent in performing the old and ridiculous ceremony of ducking those who +had not crossed the equator before. Though Captain Cook did not suppress +the custom, he thought it too trifling to deserve the least mention of +it in his Journal, or even in his log-book. Pernetty, the writer of +Bougainville's Voyage to the Falkland Islands, in 1763 and 1764, thought +differently; for his account of the celebration of this childish +festival on board his ship, is extended through seventeen pages, and +makes the subject of an entire chapter, under the title of _Bapteme de +la Ligne_. + +It may be worth while to transcribe his introduction to the description +of it. "C'est un usage qui ne remonte pas plus haut que ce voyage +celebre de Gama, qui a fourni au Camoens le sujet de la Lusiade. L'idee +qu'on ne scauroit etre un bon marin, sans avoir traverse l'Equateur, +l'ennui inseparable d'une longue navigation, un certain esprit +republicain qui regne dans toutes les petites societes, peut-etre toutes +ces causes reunies, ont pu donner naissance a ces especes de saturnales. +Quoiqu'il en soi, elles furent adoptees, en un instant, dans toutes les +nations, et les hommes les plus eclaires furent obliges de se soumettre +a une coutume dont ils reconnoissoient l'absurdite. Car, partout, des +que le peuple parle, il faut que le sage se mette a l'unison."--_Histoire +d'un Voyage aux Isles Malouines_, p. 107, 108.--D.] + +On the 8th, we were in the latitude of 8 deg. 57' S.; which is a little to +the southward of Cape St Augustine, on the coast of Brazil. Our +longitude, deduced from a very great number of lunar observations, was +34 deg. 16' W.; and by the watch, 34 deg. 47'. The former is 1 deg. 43', and the +latter 2 deg. 14' more westerly than the island of Fernando de Noronha, the +situation of which was pretty well determined during my late voyage. +Hence I concluded that we could not now be farther from the continent +than twenty or thirty leagues at most; and perhaps not much less, as we +neither had soundings nor any other signs of land. Dr Halley, however, +in his voyage, published by Mr Dalrymple, tells us,[85] that "he made no +more than one hundred and two miles, meridian distance, from the island +[Fernando de Noronha] to the coast of Brazil;" and seems to think that +"currents could not be the whole cause" of his making so little. But I +rather think that he was mistaken, and that the currents had hurried him +far to the westward of his intended course. This was, in some measure, +confirmed by our own observations; for we had found, during three or +four days preceding the 8th, that the currents set to the westward; and, +during the last twenty-four hours, it had set strong to the northward, +as we experienced a difference of twenty-nine miles between our observed +latitude and that by dead reckoning. Upon the whole, till some better +astronomical observations are made on shore on the eastern coast of +Brazil, I shall conclude that its longitude is thirty-five degrees and a +half, or thirty-six degrees W., at most. + +[Footnote 85: Page 11.] + +We proceeded on our voyage, without meeting with any thing of note, till +the 6th of October. Being then in the latitude of 35 deg. 15' S., longitude +7 deg. 45' W., we met with light airs and calms by turns, for three days +successively. We had, for some days before, seen albatrosses, pintadoes, +and other petrels; and here we saw three penguins, which occasioned us +to sound; but we found no ground with a line of one hundred and fifty +fathoms. We put a boat in the water, and shot a few birds; one of which +was a black petrel, about the size of a crow, and, except as to the bill +and feet, very like one. It had a few white feathers under the throat; +and the under-side of the quill-feathers were of an ash-colour. All the +other feathers were jet black, as also the bill and legs. + +On the 8th, in the evening, one of those birds which sailors call +noddies, settled on our rigging, and was caught. It was something larger +than an English black-bird, and nearly as black, except the upper part +of the head, which was white, looking as if it were powdered; the +whitest feathers growing out from the base of the upper bill, from which +they gradually assumed a darker colour, to about the middle of the upper +part of the neck, where the white shade was lost in the black, without +being divided by any line. It was web-footed; had black legs and a black +bill, which was long, and not unlike that of a curlew. It is said these +birds never fly far from land. We knew of none nearer the station we +were in, than Gough's or Richmond Island, from which our distance could +not be less than one hundred leagues. But it must be observed that the +Atlantic Ocean, to the southward of this latitude, has been but little +frequented; so that there may be more islands there than we are +acquainted with. + +We frequently, in the night, saw those luminous marine animals mentioned +and described in my first voyage. Some of them seemed to be considerably +larger than any I had before met with; and sometimes they were so +numerous, that hundreds were visible at the same moment. + +This calm weather was succeeded by a fresh gale from the N.W., which +lasted two days. Then we had again variable light airs for about +twenty-four hours; when the N.W. wind returned, and blew with such +strength, that on the 17th we had sight of the Cape of Good Hope; and +the next day anchored in Table Bay, in four fathoms water, with the +church bearing S.W. 1/4 S., and Green Point N.W. 1/4 W. + +As soon as we had received the usual visit from the master attendant and +the surgeon, I sent an officer to wait on Baron Plettenberg, the +governor; and, on his return, saluted the garrison with thirteen guns, +which compliment was returned with the same number. + +We found in the bay two French East India ships; the one outward, and +the other homeward bound. And two or three days before our arrival, +another homeward-bound ship of the same nation had parted from her +cable, and been driven on shore at the head of the bay, where she was +lost. The crew were saved; but the greatest part of the cargo shared the +same fate with the ship, or (which amounted to the same) was plundered +and stolen by the inhabitants, either out of the ship, or as it was +driven or carried on shore. This is the account the French officers gave +to me; and the Dutch themselves could not deny the fact. But, by way of +excusing themselves from being guilty of a crime disgraceful to every +civilized state, they endeavoured to lay the whole blame on the French +captain, for not applying in time for a guard. + +As soon as we had saluted, I went on shore, accompanied by some of my +officers, and waited on the Governor, the Lieutenant-Governor, the +Fiscal, and the Commander of the troops. These gentlemen received me +with the greatest civility; and the Governor, in particular, promised me +every assistance that the place afforded. At the same time I obtained +his leave to set up our observatory on any spot I should think most +convenient; to pitch tents for the sail-makers and coopers; and to +bring the cattle on shore, to graze near our encampment. Before I +returned on board, I ordered soft bread, fresh meat, and greens, to be +provided, every day, for the ship's company. + +On the 22d, we set up the tents and observatory, and began to send the +several articles out of the ship which I wanted on shore. This could not +be done sooner, as the militia of the place were exercising on, or near, +the ground which we were to occupy. + +The next day, we began to observe equal altitudes of the sun, in order +to ascertain the rate of the watch, or, which is the same thing, to find +whether it had altered its rate. These observations were continued every +day, whenever the weather would permit, till the time of our departure +drew near. But before this, the caulkers had been set to work to caulk +the ship; and I had concerted measures with Messrs Brandt and Chiron, +for supplying both ships with such provisions as I should want. Bakers, +likewise, had been ordered, immediately after our arrival, to bake such +a quantity of bread as I thought would be requisite. As fast as the +several articles destined for the Resolution were got ready, they were +carried on board. + +On the 26th, the French ship sailed for Europe, and by her we sent +letters to England. The next day, the Hampshire East India ship, from +Bencoolen, anchored in the bay, and saluted us with thirteen guns, which +we returned with eleven. + +Nothing remarkable happened till the evening of the 31st, when it came +on to blow excessively hard at S.E., and continued for three days; +during which time there was no communication between the ship and the +shore. The Resolution was the only ship in the bay that rode out the +gale without dragging her anchors. We felt its effects as sensibly on +shore. Our tents and observatory were torn to pieces; and our +astronomical quadrant narrowly escaped irreparable damage. On the 3d of +November the storm ceased, and the next day we resumed our different +employments. + +On the 6th, the Hampshire India ship sailed for England. In her I sent +home an invalid, whom Captain Trimble was so obliging as to receive on +board. I was afterward sorry that I had not availed myself of this +opportunity to part with two or three more of my crew, who were troubled +with different complaints; but, at this time, there was some hope of +their health being re-established. + +In the morning of the 10th, the Discovery arrived in the bay. Captain +Clerke informed me that he had sailed from Plymouth on the 1st of +August, and should have been with us here a week sooner, if the gale of +wind had not blown him off the coast. Upon the whole, he was seven days +longer in his passage from England than we had been. He had the +misfortune to lose one of his marines, by falling overboard; but there +had been no other mortality amongst his people, and they now arrived +well and healthy. + +Captain Clerke having represented to me that his ship was in want of +caulking; that no time might be lost in repairing this defect, next day +I sent all my workmen on board her, having already completed this +service on board the Resolution. I lent every other assistance to the +captain to expedite his supply of provisions and water, having given him +an order to receive on board as much of both articles as he could +conveniently stow. I now found that the bakers had failed in baking the +bread I had ordered for the Discovery. They pretended a want of flour; +but the truth was, they were doubtful of her coming, and did not care to +begin till they saw her at anchor in the bay. + +I have before made mention of our getting our cattle on shore. The bull +and two cows, with their calves, were sent to graze along with some +other cattle; but I was advised to keep our sheep, sixteen in number, +close to our tents, where they were penned up every night. During the +night preceding the 14th, some dogs having got in amongst them, forced +them out of the pen, killing four, and dispersing the rest. Six of them +were recovered the next day; but the two rams, and two of the finest +ewes in the whole flock, were amongst those missing. Baron Plettenberg +being now in the country, I applied to the Lieutenant-Governor, Mr +Hemmy, and to the Fiscal. Both these gentlemen promised to use their +endeavours for the recovery of the lost sheep. The Dutch, we know, +boasted that the police at the Cape was so carefully executed, that it +was hardly possible for a slave, with all his cunning and knowledge of +the country, to effectuate his escape. Yet my sheep evaded all the +vigilance of the Fiscal's officers and people. However, after much +trouble and expence, by employing some of the meanest and lowest +scoundrels in the place (who, to use the phrase of the person who +recommended this method to me, would, for a ducatoon, cut their master's +throat, burn the house over his head, and bury him and the whole family +in the ashes), I recovered them all but the two ewes. Of these I never +could bear the least tidings; and I gave over all enquiry after them, +when I was told that, since I had got the two rams, I might think +myself very well off. One of these, however, was so much hurt by the +dogs, that there was reason to believe he would never recover. + +Mr Hemmy very obligingly offered to make up this loss, by giving me a +Spanish ram, out of some that he had sent for from Lisbon. But I +declined the offer, under a persuasion that it would answer my purpose +full as well, to take with me some of the Cape rams: the event proved +that I was under a mistake. This gentleman had taken some pains to +introduce European sheep at the Cape; but his endeavours, as he told me, +had been frustrated by the obstinacy of the country people, who held +their own breed in greater estimation, on account of their large tails, +of the fat of which, they sometimes made more money than of the whole +carcase besides; and who thought that the wool of European sheep would, +by no means, make up for their deficiency in this respect.[86] Indeed, I +have heard some sensible men here make the same observation. And there +seems to be foundation for it. For, admitting that European sheep were +to produce wool of the same quality here as in Europe, which experience +has shewn not to be the case, the Dutch had not hands, at the Cape of +Good Hope, to spare for the manufacturing even their own clothing. It is +certain that, were it not for the continual importation of slaves, this +settlement would have been thinner of people than any other inhabited +part of the world. + +[Footnote 86: "The most remarkable thing in the Cape sheep, is the +length and thickness of their tails, which weigh from fifteen to twenty +pounds. The fat is not so tallowish as that of European mutton, and the +poorer sort use it for butter."--_Kolben's Cape of Good Hope_ (English +translation), vol. ii. p. 65. De la Caille, who finds every thing wrong +in Kolben, says, the weight of the tails of the Cape sheep is not above +five or six pounds.--_Voyage de la Caille_, p. 343. If the information +given to Captain Cook may be depended upon, it will prove, that, in this +instance at least, Kolben is unjustly accused of exaggeration.--D. + +According to Mr Bingley and others, the tail of this sheep sometimes +weighs nearly one-third of the whole carcase, and consists of a +substance intermediate betwixt fat and marrow, which is often used +instead of butter. The fleeces are very fine, long and beautiful; and, +in Thibet, where the breed is also found, are worked into shawls. A +similar breed is said to be found in other countries, as Barbary, +Ethiopia, the vicinity of Aleppo, Persia, and Asiatic Russia. Kolben's +account is conceived to be perfectly credible.--E.] + + + +While the ships were getting ready for the prosecution of our voyage, +some of our officers made an excursion to take a view of the +neighbouring country. Mr Anderson, my surgeon, who was one of the party, +gave me the following relation of their proceedings.[87] + +[Footnote 87: In the Philosophical Transactions, vol. lxvi. p. 268 to +319, is an Account of Three Journies from the Cape Town into the +Southern Parts of Africa, in 1772, 1773, and 1774; by Mr Francis Masson, +who had been sent from England for the discovery of new plants, towards +the improvement of the Royal Botanical Garden at Kew. Much curious +information is contained in Mr Masson's account of these journies. M. de +Pages, who was at the Cape in 1773, gives some remarks on the state of +that settlement, and also the particulars of his journey from False Bay +to the Cape Town.--_Voyage vers le Pole du Sud_, p. 17 to 32.--D. + +It is unnecessary to apprise the reader, that our acquaintance with the +Cape has been most materially increased since the date of this +publication, and that several travellers have devoted their labours to +the illustration of its natural history.--E.] + +"On the 16th, in the forenoon, I set out in a waggon, with five more, to +take a view of some part of the country. We crossed the large plain that +lies to the eastward of the town, which is entirely a white sand, like +that commonly found on beaches, and produces only heath, and other small +plants of various sorts. At five in the afternoon we passed a large +farm-house, with some corn-fields, and pretty considerable vineyards, +situated beyond the plain, near the foot of some low hills, where the +soil becomes worth cultivating. Between six and seven we arrived at +Stellenbosh, the colony next to that of the Cape for its importance. + +"The village does not consist of more than thirty houses, and stands at +the foot of the range of lofty mountains, above twenty miles to the +eastward of the Cape Town. The houses are neat; and, with the advantage +of a rivulet which runs near, and the shelter of some large oaks, +planted at its first settling, forms what may be called a rural prospect +in this desert country. There are some vineyards and orchards about the +place, which, from their thriving appearance, seem to indicate an +excellent soil; though, perhaps, they owe much to climate, as the air +here has an uncommon serenity. + +"I employed the next day in searching for plants and insects about +Stellenbosh, but had little success. Few plants are in flower here at +this season, and insects but scarce. I examined the soil in several +places, and found it to consist of yellowish clay, mixed with a good +deal of sand. The sides of the low hills, which appear brown, seem to be +constituted of a sort of stone marl. + +"We left Stellenbosh next morning, and soon arrived at the house we had +passed on Saturday; the owner of which, Mr Cloeder, had sent us an +invitation the evening before to visit him. This gentleman entertained +us with the greatest hospitality, and in a manner very different from +what we expected. He received us with music, and a band also played +while we were at dinner; which, considering the situation of the place, +might be reckoned elegant. He shewed us his wine-cellars, his orchards, +and vineyards; all which, I must own, inspired me with a wish to know in +what manner these industrious people could create such plenty, in a spot +where, I believe, no other European nation would have attempted to +settle. + +"In the afternoon we crossed the country, and passed a few plantations, +one of which seemed very considerable, and was laid out in a taste +somewhat different from any other we saw. In the evening we arrived at a +farm-house, which is the first in the cultivated tract called the Pearl. +We had, at the same time, a view of Drakenstein, the third colony of +this country, which lies along by the foot of the lofty hills already +mentioned, and contains several farms or plantations, not very +extensive. + +"I went, on the 19th in the forenoon, in quest of plants and insects, +which I found almost as scarce as at Stellenbosh; but I met with more +shrubs or small trees, naturally produced, in the valleys, than in any +part of the country I had hitherto seen. + +"In the afternoon we went to see a stone of a remarkable size, called by +the inhabitants the Tower of Babylon, or the Pearl Diamond.[88] It lies, +or stands, upon the top of some low hills, at the foot of which our +farm-house was situated; and though the road to it is neither very steep +nor rugged, we were above an hour and a half in walking to it. It is of +an oblong shape, rounded on the top, and lies nearly S. and N. The E. +and W. sides are steep, and almost perpendicular. The S. end is likewise +steep, and its greatest height is there; from whence it declines gently +to the N. part, by which we ascended to its top, and had an extensive +view of the whole country. + +[Footnote 88: In the Philosophical Transactions, vol. lxviii, part i. p. +102, we have a letter from Mr Anderson to Sir John Pringle, describing +this remarkable stone. The account sent home from the Cape, and read +before the Royal Society, is much the same with that now published, but +rather fuller. In particular, he tells Sir John, that he went to see it +at Mr Masson's desire, who probably had not had an opportunity of +sufficiently examining it himself. In the account of his journies above +referred to, p. 270, he only says, "there are two large solid rocks on +the Perel Berg, each of which (he believes) is more than a mile in +circumference at the base, and upwards of 200 feet high. Their surfaces +are nearly smooth, without chink or fissures; and they are found to be a +species of granite, different from that which composes the neighbouring +mountains." + +Mr Anderson having, with his letter to Sir John Pringle, also sent home +a specimen of the rock, it was examined by Sir William Hamilton, whose +opinion is, that "this singular, immense fragment of granite, most +probably has been raised by a volcanic explosion, or some such cause." +See his Letter to Sir John Pringle, annexed to Mr Anderson's, in the +Philosophical Transactions.--D.] + +"Its circumference, I think, must be at least half a mile, as it took us +above half an hour to walk round it, including every allowance for the +bad road, and stopping a little. At its highest part, which is the S. +end, comparing it with a known object, it seems to equal the dome of St +Paul's church. It is one uninterrupted mass of stone, if we except some +fissures, or rather impressions, not above three or four feet deep, and +a vein which runs across near its N. end. It is of that sort of stone +called, by mineralogists, _Saxum conglutinatum_, and consists chiefly of +pieces of coarse quartz and glimmer, held together by a clayey cement. +But the vein which crosses it, though of the same materials, is much +compacter. This vein is not above a foot broad or thick; and its surface +is cut into little squares or oblongs, disposed obliquely, which makes +it look like the remains of some artificial work. But I could not +observe whether it penetrated far into the large rock, or was only +superficial. In descending, we found at its foot a very rich black +mould; and on the sides of the hills some trees of a considerable size, +natives of the place, which are a species of _olea_.[89] + +[Footnote 89: "It is strange that neither Kolben nor de la Caille should +have thought the Tower of Babylon worthy of a particular description. +The former [vol. ii. p. 52, 53, English translation] only mentions it as +a high mountain. The latter contents himself with telling us, that it +is a very low hillock, _un tres bas monticule. Voyage de la Caille_, p. +341. We are much obliged to Mr Anderson for his very accurate account of +this remarkable rock, which agrees with Mr Sonnerat's, who was at the +Cape of Good Hope so late as 1781. His words are, "La Montagne de la +_Perle_, merite d'etre observee. C'est un des plus hautes des environs +du Cap. Elle n'est composee que d'un seul bloc de granit crevasse dans +plusieurs endroits." _Voyage aux Indes_, tom. ii. p. 91. + +Mr Sonnerat tells us, that Mr Gordon, commander of the troops at the +Cape, had lately made three journies up the country, from which, when he +publishes his journal, we may expect much curious information.--D.] + +"In the morning of the 20th we set out from the Pearl; and going a +different road from that by which we came, passed through a country +wholly uncultivated, till we got to the Tiger hills, when some tolerable +corn-fields appeared. At noon we stopped in a hollow for refreshment, +but, in walking about here, were plagued with a vast number of +musquitoes or sand-flies, which were the first I saw in the country. In +the afternoon we set out again, and in the evening arrived at the Cape +Town, tired with the jolting waggon." + +On the 23d we got on board the observatory, clock, &c. By a mean of the +several results of the equal altitudes of the sun, taken with the +astronomical quadrant, the astronomical clock was found to lose on +sidereal time, 1' 8",368 each day. The pendulum was kept at the same +length as at Greenwich, where the daily loss of the clock on sidereal +time was 4". + +The watch, by the mean of the results of fifteen days observations, was +found to be losing 2",261, on mean time, each day, which is 1",052 more +than at Greenwich; and on the 21st, at noon, she was too slow for mean +time by 1'h 20' 57",66. From this 6' 48",956 is to be subtracted, for +what she was too slow on the 11th of June at Greenwich, and her daily +rate since; and the remainder, viz. 1 deg. 14' 8",704, or 18 deg. 32' 10", will +be the longitude of the Cape Town by the watch. Its true longitude, as +found by Messrs Masson and Dixon, is 18 deg. 23' 15". As our observations +were made about half a mile to the E. of theirs, the error of the watch +in longitude is no more than 8' 25". Hence we have reason to conclude, +that she had gone well all the way from England, and that the longitude, +thus given, may be nearer the truth than any other. + +If this be admitted, it will, in a great measure, enable me to find the +direction and strength of the currents we met with on this passage from +England. For, by comparing the latitude and longitude by dead reckoning +with those by observation and the watch, we shall, from time to time, +have, very accurately, the error of the ship's reckoning, be the cause +what it will. But as all imaginable care was taken in heaving, and +keeping the log, and every necessary allowance made for lee-way, heave +of the sea, and other such circumstances, I cannot attribute those +errors that did happen to any other cause but currents; but more +particularly when the error was constantly the same way for several days +successively. + +On the contrary, if we find the ship a-head of the reckoning on one day, +and a-stern of it on another, we have reason to believe that such errors +are owing to accidental causes, and not to currents. This seems to have +been the case in our passage between England and Teneriffe. But, from +the time of our leaving that island, till the 15th of August, being then +in the latitude of 12 deg. N. and longitude 24 deg. W. the ship was carried 1 deg. +20' of longitude to the westward of her reckoning. At this station the +currents took a contrary direction, and set to E.S.E. at the rate of +twelve or fourteen miles a day, or twenty-four hours, till we arrived +into the latitude of 5 deg. N. and longitude of 20 deg. W.; which was our most +easterly situation after leaving the Cape de Verde Islands till we got +to the southward. For in this situation the wind came southerly, and we +tacked and stretched to the westward; and, for two or three days, could +not find that our reckoning was affected by any current. So that I +judged we were between the current that generally, if not constantly, +sets to the east upon the coast of Guinea, and that which sets to the +west toward the coast of Brazil. This westerly current was not +considerable till we got into 2 deg. N. and 25 deg. W. From this station to 3 deg. +S. and 30 deg. W. the ship, in the space of four days, was carried 115 miles +in the direction of S.W. by W. beyond her reckoning; an error by far too +great to have any other cause but a strong current running in the same +direction. Nor did its strength abate here; but its course was afterward +more westerly, and to the N. of W., and off Cape Augustine N. as I have +already mentioned. But this northerly current did not exist at twenty or +thirty leagues to the southward of that Cape, nor any other, that I +could perceive, in the remaining part of the passage. The little +difference we afterward found between the reckoning and observations, +might very well happen without the assistance of currents, as will +appear by the table of Day's Works.[90] + +[Footnote 90: The curious reader will find some interesting, though not +decisive, remarks concerning the currents of the Atlantic Ocean in +Clerke's Prog. of Mar. Disc. vol. i. p. 358.--E.] + +In the accounts of my last voyage, I remarked, that the currents one +meets with in his passage generally balance each other. It happened so +then, because we crossed the Line about 20 deg. more to the eastward than we +did now; so that we were, of consequence, longer under the influence of +the easterly current, which made up for the westerly one. And this, I +apprehend, will generally be the case, if you cross the Line 10 deg. or 15 deg. +to the E. of the meridian of St Jago. + +From these remarks I shall draw the following conclusion, that after +passing the Cape de Verde Islands, if you do not make above 4 deg. or 5 deg. +easting, and cross the Line in, or to the westward of, the meridian of +St Jago, you may expect to find your ship 3 deg. or 4 deg. to the westward of +her reckoning by the time you get into the latitude of 10 deg. S. If, on the +other hand, you keep well to the E. and cross the Line 15 deg. or 20 deg. to the +E. of St Jago, you will be then as much to the E. of your reckoning; and +the more you keep to the eastward, the greater will be your error, as +has been experienced by some India ships, whose people have found +themselves close upon the coast of Angola, when they thought its +distance was above 200 leagues. + +During the whole of our passage from England, no opportunity was omitted +of observing, with all the attention and accuracy that circumstances +would permit, the variation of the compass, which I have inserted in a +table, with the latitude and longitude of the ship at the time of +observation. As the longitude may be depended upon, to a quarter or half +a degree at most, this table will be of use to those navigators who +correct their reckoning by the variation. It will also enable Mr Dun to +correct his new Variation Chart, a thing very much wanted. + +It seems strange to me, that the advocates for the variation should not +agree amongst themselves. We find one[91] of them telling us, as I have +already observed, "that with 8 deg. W. variation, or any thing above that, +you may venture to sail by the Cape de Verde Islands by night or day, +being well assured, with that variation, that you are to the eastward of +them." Another, in his chart,[92] lays down this variation ninety +leagues to the westward of them. Such a disagreement as this, is a +strong proof of the uncertainty of both. However, I have no doubt the +former found here, as well as in other places, the variation he +mentions. But he should have considered, that at sea, nay even on land, +the results of the most accurate observations will not always be the +same. Different compasses will give different variations; and even the +same compass will differ from itself two degrees, without our being able +to discover, much less to remove, the cause. + +[Footnote 91: Nichelson.] + +[Footnote 92: Mr Dun.] + +Whoever imagines he can find the variation within a degree, will very +often see himself much deceived. For, besides the imperfection which may +be in the construction of the instrument, or in the power of the needle, +it is certain that the motion of the ship, or attraction of the +iron-work, or some other cause not yet discovered, will frequently +occasion far greater errors than this. That the variation may be found, +with a share of accuracy more than sufficient to determine the ship's +course, is allowed; but that it can be found so exactly as to fix the +longitude within a degree, or sixty miles, I absolutely deny.[93] + +[Footnote 93: Few readers, it is presumed, require to be informed, that +the mode of endeavouring to ascertain the longitude by the variation of +the compass is no longer in use. In a work already referred to, Clerke's +Prog. of Mar. Disc., a singular enough communication is inserted +respecting the effect of tallow on the compass. It is subscribed by +Lieutenant Mason of the marines; but whether the experiments it relates +have been repeated by others, or if the inference it maintains has been +otherwise confirmed, the writer has yet to learn. He thought it right, +however, to notice it, as the more extensively hints are spread which +concern the advancement of useful discovery, the greater chance we have +of correcting errors, and perfecting science, The same reason justifies +his remarking, that the most important observations respecting the +variation of the compass made of late years, are those of Captain +Flinders, as to the effect of the ship's course upon it. The reader will +find them in the appendix to the account of his voyage lately published, +2d volume. Similar observations have still more recently been made by an +officer on board his majesty's ship Sibyl, while in the North Sea +protecting our Greenland fishery. They form an appendix to the Account +of a Voyage to Spitzbergen, by Mr John Laing, Surgeon, published at +Edinburgh, 1815. Of their importance and accuracy, notwithstanding the +small scale on which they were made, and the meagre manner in which they +have been communicated, it is impossible for a moment to doubt. The +concluding remark is entitled to considerable regard.--"After a more +enlarged series of observations shall have been taken, and after the +attention of astronomers is directed to this fact, one may confidently +expect a most important improvement in the science of navigation." The +value of the discovery alluded to, will at once appear from what is said +in the way of enquiry as to similar observations to those made in the +North Sea applying to ships coming from the Baltic, viz. that if so, +"they most effectually account for ships getting down on the coast of +Holland, when they suppose themselves well over in Mid-channel; and +therefore prove the loss of so many of our brave tars when coming from +that sea."--P. 163. As a paper, containing Captain Flinders's +observations on this subject, had been sent to the officer who makes +this communication, by the Lords of the Admiralty, it is reasonable to +expect that official agency is engaged to benefit the world by maturing +he discovery.--E.] + + + +SECTION IV. + +_The two Ships leave the Cape of Good Hope.--Two Islands, named Prince +Edwards, seen, and their Appearance described.--Kerguelen's Land +visited.--Arrival in Christmas Harbour.--Occurrences there.--Description +of it_. + + +After the disaster which happened to our sheep, it may be well supposed +that I did not trust those that remained long on shore, but got them and +the other cattle on board as fast as possible. I also added to my +original stock by purchasing two young bulls, two heifers, two young +stone-horses, two mares, two rams, several ewes and goats, and some +rabbits and poultry. + +All of them were intended for New Zealand, Otaheite, and the +neighbouring islands, or any other places in the course of our voyage, +where there might be a prospect that the leaving any of them would be +useful to posterity. + +Toward the latter end of November the caulkers had finished their work +on board the Discovery, and she had received all her provisions and +water. Of the former, both ships had a sufficient supply for two years +and upward. And every other article we could think of, necessary for +such a voyage, that could be had at the Cape, was procured; neither +knowing when, nor where, we might come to a place where we could furnish +ourselves so well. + +Having given Captain Clerke a copy of my instructions, and an order +directing him how to proceed in case of separation, in the morning of +the 30th we repaired on board. At five in the afternoon a breeze sprung +up at S.E. with which we weighed, and stood out of the bay. At nine it +fell calm, and we anchored between Penguin Island and the east shore, +where we lay till three o'clock next morning. We then weighed and put to +sea, with a light breeze at S., but did not get clear of the land till +the morning of the 3d, when, with a fresh gale at W.N.W. we stood to the +S.E. to get more into the way of these winds. + +On the 5th a sudden squall of wind carried away the Resolution's mizen +top-mast. Having another to replace it, the loss was not felt, +especially as it was a bad stick, and had often complained. On the 6th, +in the evening, being then in the latitude of 39 deg. 14' S. and in the +longitude of 25 deg. 56' E., we passed through several small spots of water +of a reddish colour. Some of this was taken up, and it was found to +abound with a small animal, which the microscope discovered to be like a +cray-fish, of a reddish hue. + +We continued our course to the S.E. with a very strong gale from the +westward, followed by a mountainous sea, which made the ship roll and +tumble exceedingly, and gave us a great deal of trouble to preserve the +cattle we had on board. Notwithstanding all our care, several goats, +especially the males, died, and some sheep. This misfortune was, in a +great measure, owing to the cold, which we now began most sensibly to +feel. + +On the 12th, at noon, we saw land extending from S.E. by S. to S.E. by +E. Upon a nearer approach we found it to be two islands. That which lies +most to the south, and is also the largest, I judged to be about fifteen +leagues in circuit, and to be in the latitude of 46 deg. 53' S. and in the +longitude of 37 deg. 46' E. The most northerly one is about nine leagues in +circuit, and lies in the latitude of 46 deg. 40' S. and in 38 deg. 8' E. +longitude. The distance from the one to the other is about five leagues. + +We passed through this channel at equal distance from both islands; and +could not discover, with the assistance of our best glasses, either tree +or shrub on either of them. They seemed to have a rocky and bold shore; +and, excepting the S.E. parts, where the land is rather low and flat, a +surface composed of barren mountains, which rise to a considerable +height, and whose summits and sides were covered with snow, which in +many places seemed to be of a considerable depth. The S.E. parts had a +much greater quantity on them than the rest, owing, probably, to the sun +acting for a less space of time on these than on the N. and N.W. parts. +The ground, where it was not hid by the snow, from the various shades it +exhibited, may be supposed to be covered with moss, or perhaps such a +coarse grass as is found in some parts of Falkland's Islands. On the N. +side of each of the islands is a detached rock; that near the S. island +is shaped like a tower, and seemed to be at some distance from the +shore. As we passed along, a quantity of seaweed was seen, and the +colour of the water indicated soundings. But there was no appearance of +an inlet, unless near the rock just mentioned; and that, from its +smallness, did not promise a good anchoring-place. + +These two islands, as also four others which lie from nine to twelve +degrees of longitude more to the E. and nearly in the same latitude, +were discovered, as I have mentioned in my late voyage,[94] by Captains +Marion du Fresne and Crozet, French navigators, in January, 1772, on +their passage in two ships from the Cape of Good Hope to the Philippine +Islands. As they have no names in the French chart of the southern +hemisphere, which Captain Grozet communicated to me in 1775,[95] I shall +distinguish the two we now saw by calling them Prince Edward's Islands, +after his majesty's fourth son; and the other four, by the name of +Marion's and Crozet's Islands, to commemorate their discoverers. + +[Footnote 94: Captain Cook's second voyage. These islands are said to be +in the latitude of 48 deg. S.; that is, 2 deg. farther S. than what here appears +to be their real position.--D.] + +[Footnote 95: See Cook's voyage, as above. Dr. Forster, in his +Observations made during that Voyage, p. 30, gives us this description +of the chart then communicated by Monsieur Crozet; that it was +"published under the patronage of the Duke de Croye, by Robert de +Vaugondy." Captain Cook tells us, lower in this chapter, that it was +published in 1773.--D.] + +We had now, for the most part, strong gales between the N. and W., and +but very indifferent weather; not better, indeed, than we generally have +in England in the very depth of winter, though it was now the middle of +summer in this hemisphere. Not discouraged, however, by this, after +leaving Prince Edward's Islands, I shaped our course to pass to the +southward of the others, that I might get into the latitude of the land +discovered by Monsieur de Kerguelen. + +I had applied to the Chevalier de Borda whom, as I have mentioned, I +found at Teneriffe, requesting, that if he knew any thing of the island +discovered by Monsieur de Kerguelen, between the Cape of Good Hope and +New Holland, he would be so obliging as to communicate it to me. +Accordingly, just before we sailed from Santa Cruz Bay, he sent me the +following account of it, viz. "That the pilot of the Boussole, who was +in the voyage with Monsieur de Kerguelen, had given him the latitude and +longitude of a little island, which Monsieur de Kerguelen called the +Isle of Rendezvous, and which lies not far from the great island which +he saw. Latitude of the little isle, by seven observations, 48 deg. 26' S.; +longitude, by seven observations of the distance of the sun and moon, +64 deg. 57' E. from Paris," I was very sorry I had not sooner known that +there was on board the frigate at Teneriffe, an officer who had been +with Monsieur de Kerguelen, especially the pilot; because from him I +might have obtained more interesting information about this land than +the situation alone, of which I was not before entirely ignorant.[96] + +[Footnote 96: Captain Cook's proceedings, as related in the remaining +part of this chapter, and in the next, being upon a coast newly +discovered by the French, it could not but be an object of his attention +to trace the footsteps of the original explorers. But no superiority of +professional skill, nor diligence in exerting it, could possibly qualify +him to do this successfully, without possessing, at the same time, full +and authentic intelligence of all that had been performed here by his +predecessors in the discovery. But that he was not so fortunate as to be +thus sufficiently instructed, will appear from the following facts, +which the reader is requested to attend to, before he proceeds to the +perusal of this part of the journal. + +How very little was known, with any precision, about the operations of +Kerguelen, when Captain Cook sailed in 1776, may be inferred from the +following paragraph of his instructions:--"You are to proceed in search +of some islands said to have been lately seen by the French in the +latitude of 48 deg. S., and in the meridian of the Mauritius." This was, +barely, the amount of the very indefinite and imperfect information, +which Captain Cook himself had received from Baron Plettenberg at the +Cape of Good Hope, in November 1772; in the beginning of which year +Kerguelen's first voyage had taken place. + +The captain, on his return homeward, in March 1775, heard, a second +time, something about this French discovery at the Cape, where he met +with Monsieur Crozet, who very obligingly communicated to him a chart of +the southern hemisphere, wherein were delineated not only his own +discoveries, but also that of Captain Kerguelen. But what little +information that chart could convey, was still necessarily confined to +the operations of the first voyage; the chart here referred to, having +been published in France in 1773, that is, before any intelligence could +possibly be conveyed from the southern hemisphere of the result of +Kerguelen's second visit to this new land, which, we now know, happened +towards the close of the same year. + +Of these latter operations, the only account (if that can be called an +account, which conveys no particular information) received by Captain +Cook from Monsieur Crozet, was, that a later voyage had been undertaken +by the French, under the command of Captain Kerguelen, which had ended +much to the disgrace of that commander. + +What Crozet had not communicated to our author, and what we are sure, +from a variety of circumstances, he had never heard of from any other +quarter, he missed an opportunity of learning at Teneriffe. He expressed +his being sorry, as we have just read, that he did not know sooner that +there was on board the frigate an officer who had been with Kerguelen, +as he might have obtained from him more interesting information about +this land, than its situation. And, indeed, if he had conversed with +that officer, he might have obtained information more interesting than +he was aware of; he might have learnt that Kerguelen had actually +visited this southern land a second time, and that the little isle of +which he then received the name and position from the Chevalier de +Borda, was a discovery of this later voyage. But the account conveyed to +him, being, as the reader will observe, unaccompanied with any date, or +other distinguishing circumstance, he left Teneriffe, and arrived on the +coasts of Kerguelen's Land, under a full persuasion that it had been +visited only once before. And, even with regard to the operations of +that first voyage, he had nothing to guide him, but the very scanty +materials afforded to him by Baron Plettenberg and Monsieur Crozet. + +The truth is, the French seem, for some reason or other, not surely +founded on the importance of Kerguelen's discovery, to have been very +shy of publishing a full and distinct account of it. No such account had +been published while Captain Cook lived. Nay, even after the return of +his ships in 1780, the gentleman who obligingly lent his assistance to +give a view of the prior observations of the French, and to connect them +on the same chart with those of our author, though his assiduity in +procuring geographical information can be equalled only by his readiness +in communicating it, had not, it should seem, been able to procure any +materials for that purpose, but such as mark the operations of the first +French voyage; and even for these, he was indebted to a MS. drawing. + +But this veil of unnecessary secrecy is at length drawn aside. Kerguelen +himself has published the journal of his proceedings in two successive +voyages, in the years 1772 and 1773; and has annexed to his narrative a +chart of the coasts of this land, as far as he had explored them in both +voyages. Monsieur de Pages, also, much about the same time, favoured us +with another account of the second voyage, in some respects fuller than +Kerguelen's own, on board whose ship he was then an officer. + +From these sources of authentic information, we are enabled to draw +every necessary material to correct what is erroneous, and to illustrate +what, otherwise, would have remained obscure, in this part of Captain +Cook's journal. We shall take occasion to do this in separate notes on +the passages as they occur, and conclude this tedious, but, it is hoped, +not unnecessary, detail of facts, with one general remark, fully +expressive of the disadvantages our author laboured under. He never saw +that part of the coast upon which the French had been in 1772; and he +never knew that they had been upon another part of it in 1773, which was +the very scene of his own operations. Consequently, what he knew of the +former voyage, as delineated upon Crozet's chart, only served to perplex +and mislead his judgment; and his total ignorance of the latter, put it +out of his power to compare his own observations with those then made by +Kerguelen; though we, who are better instructed, can do this, by tracing +the plainest marks of coincidence and agreement.--D.] + +My instructions directing me to examine it, with a view to discover a +good harbour, I proceeded in the search; and on the 16th, being then in +the latitude of 48 deg. 45', and in the longitude of 52 deg. E., we saw penguins +and divers, and rock-weed floating in the sea. We continued to meet with +more or less of these every day, as we proceeded to the eastward; and on +the 21st, in the latitude of 48 deg. 27' S., and in the longitude of 65 deg. E., +a very large seal was seen. We had now much foggy weather, and as we +expected to fall in with the land every hour, our navigation became both +tedious and dangerous. + +At length, on the 24th, at six o'clock in the morning, as we were +steering to the eastward, the fog clearing away a little, we saw +land,[97] bearing S.S.E., which, upon a nearer approach, we found to be +an island of considerable height, and about three leagues in +circuit.[98] Soon after, we saw another of the same magnitude, one +league to the eastward;[99] and between these two, in the direction of +S.E., some smaller ones.[100] In the direction of S. by E. 1/2 E., from +the E. end of the first island, a third[101] high island was seen. At +times, as the fog broke away, we had the appearance of land over the +small islands; and I had thoughts of steering for it, by running in +between them. But, on drawing nearer, I found this would be a dangerous +attempt, while the weather continued foggy. For if there should be no +passage, or if we should meet with any sudden danger, it would have been +impossible for us to get off; the wind being right a-stern, and a +prodigious sea running, that broke on all the shores in a frightful +surf. At the same time, seeing another island in the N.E. direction, and +not knowing but that their might be more, I judged it prudent to haul +off, and wait for clearer weather, lest we should get entangled amongst +unknown lands in a thick fog. + +[Footnote 97: Captain Cook was not the original discoverer of these +small islands which he now fell in with. It is certain that they had +been seen and named by Kerguelen, on his second voyage, in December +1773. Their position, relatively to each other, and to the adjoining +coasts of the greater land, bears a striking resemblance to Kerguelen's +delineation of them; whose chart, however, the public may be assured, +was unknown in England till after that accompanying the account of this +third voyage had been engraved.--D.] + +[Footnote 98: This is the isle to which Kerguelen gave the name of Croy, +or Crouy. Besides delineating it upon his chart, he has added a +particular view of it, exactly corresponding with Captain Cook's account +of its being of considerable height.--D.] + +[Footnote 99: Kerguelen called this Isle Rolland, after the name of his +own ship. There is also a particular view of it on the French +chart.--D.] + +[Footnote 100: The observations of the French and English navigators +agree exactly as to the position of these smaller isles.--D.] + +[Footnote 101: The situation of Kerguelen's Isle de Clugny, as marked on +this chart, shews it to be the third high island seen by Captain +Cook.--D.] + +We did but just weather the island last mentioned. It is a high round +rock, which was named Bligh's Cap. Perhaps this is the same that +Monsieur de Kerguelen called the Isle of Rendezvous;[102] but I know +nothing that can rendezvous at it, but fowls of the air; for it is +certainly inaccessible to every other animal. + +[Footnote 102: This isle, or rock, was the single point about which +Captain Cook had received the least information at Teneriffe; and we may +observe how sagacious he was in tracing it. What he could only speak of +as probable, a comparison of his chart with that lately published by +Kerguelen, proves to be certain; and if he had even read and copied what +his predecessor in the discovery says of it, he could scarcely have +varied his account of its shape. Kerguelen's words are, "Isle de +Reunion, qui n'est qu'une Roche, nous servoit de Rendezvous, ou de point +de ralliement; et ressemble a un coin de mire."--D.] + +At eleven o'clock the weather began to clear up, and we immediately +tacked, and steered in for the land. At noon, we had a pretty good +observation, which enabled us to determine the latitude of Bligh's Cap, +which is the northernmost island, to be 48 deg. 29' S., and its longitude +68 deg. 40' E.'[103] We passed it at three o'clock, standing to the S.S.E., +with a fresh gale at W. + +[Footnote 103: The French and English agree very nearly (as might be +expected) in their accounts of the latitude of this island; but the +observations by which they fix its longitude vary considerably. The +pilot at Teneriffe made it only 64 deg. 57' E. from Paris, which is about +67 deg. 16' E. from London; or 1 deg. 24' more westerly than Captain Cook's +observations fix it. Monsieur de Pages says it is 66 deg. 47' E. from Paris, +that is, 69 deg. 6' E. from London, or twenty-six miles more easterly than +it is placed by Captain Cook. Kerguelen himself only says that it is +about 68 deg. of E. longitude, _par_ 68 deg. _de longitude_.--D.] + +Soon after we saw the land, of which we had a faint view in the morning; +and at four o'clock it extended from S.E. 1/2 E., to S.W. by S., distant +about four miles. The left extreme, which I judged to be the northern +point of this land, called, in the French chart of the southern +hemisphere, Cape St Louis,[104] terminated in a perpendicular rock of a +considerable height; and the right one (near which is a detached rock) +in a high indented point.[105] From this point the coast seemed to turn +short round to the southward, for we could see no land to the westward +of the direction in which it now bore to us, but the islands we had +observed in the morning; the most southerly[106] of them lying nearly W. +from the point, about two or three leagues distant. + +[Footnote 104: Hitherto, we have only had occasion to supply defects, +owing to Captain Cook's entire ignorance of Kerguelen's second voyage in +1773; we must now correct errors, owing to his very limited knowledge of +the operations of the first voyage in 1772. The chart of the southern +hemisphere, his only guide, having given him, as he tells us, the name +of Cape St Louis (or Cape Louis) as the most northerly promontory then +seen by the French; and his own observations now satisfying him that no +part of the main land stretched farther north than the left extreme now +before him; from this supposed similarity of situation, he judged that +his own perpendicular rock must be the Cape Louis of the first +discoverers. By looking upon the chart originally published with this +voyage, we shall find Cape Louis lying upon a different part of the +coast; and by comparing this chart with that published by Kerguelen, it +will appear, in the clearest manner, that the northern point now +described by Captain Cook, is the very same to which the French have +given the name of Cape Francois--D.] + +[Footnote 105: This right extreme of the coast, as it now shewed itself +to Captain Cook, seems to be what is represented on Kerguelen's chart +under the name of Cape Aubert. It may be proper to observe here, that +all that extent of coast lying between Cape Louis and Cape Francois, of +which the French saw very little during their first visit in 1772, and +may be called the N.W. side of this land, they had it in their power to +trace the position of in 1773, and have assigned names to some of its +bays, rivers, and promontories, upon their chart.--D.] + +[Footnote 106: Kerguelen's Isle de Clugny.--D.] + +About the middle of the land there appeared to be an inlet, for which we +steered; but, on approaching, found it was a bending in the coast, and +therefore bore up, to go round Cape St Louis.[107] Soon after, land +opened off the cape, in the direction of S. 53 deg. E., and appeared to be a +point at a considerable distance; for the trending of the coast from the +cape was more southerly. We also saw several rocks and islands to the +eastward of the above directions, the most distant of which was about +seven leagues from the cape, bearing S. 88 deg. E.[108] We had no sooner got +off the cape, than we observed the coast, to the southward, to be much +indented by projecting points and bays; so that we now made sure of soon +finding a good harbour. Accordingly, we had not run a mile farther, +before we discovered one behind the cape, into which we began to ply; +but after making one board, it fell calm, and we anchored at the +entrance in forty-five fathoms water, the bottom black sand; as did the +Discovery soon after. I immediately dispatched Mr Bligh, the master, in +a boat to sound the harbour; who, on his return, reported it to be safe +and commodious, with good anchorage in every part; and great plenty of +fresh-water, seals, penguins, and other birds on the shore; but not a +stick of wood. While we lay at anchor, we observed that the flood tide +came from the S.E., running two knots, at least, in an hour. + +[Footnote 107: Cape Francois, as already observed.--D.] + +[Footnote 108: The observations of the French, round Cape Francois, +remarkably coincide with Captain Cook's in this paragraph; and the rocks +and islands here mentioned by him, also appear upon their chart.--D.] + +At day-break, in the morning of the 25th, we weighed with a gentle +breeze at W,; and having wrought into the harbour, to within a quarter +of a mile of the sandy beach at its head, we anchored in eight fathoms +water, the bottom a fine dark sand. The Discovery did not get in till +two o'clock in the afternoon, when Captain Clerke informed me, that he +had narrowly escaped being driven on the S. point of the harbour, his +anchor having started before they had time to shorten in the cable. This +obliged them to set sail, and drag the anchor after them, till they had +room to heave it up, and then they found one of its palms was broken +off. + +As soon as we had anchored, I ordered all the boats to be hoisted out, +the ship to be moored with a kedge-anchor, and the water-casks to be got +ready to send on shore. In the mean time I landed, to look for the most +convenient spot where they might be filled, and to see what else the +place afforded. + +I found the shore, in a manner, covered with penguins and other birds, +and seals. These latter were not numerous, but so insensible of fear, +(which plainly indicated that they were unaccustomed to such visitors,) +that we killed as many as we chose, for the sake of their fat, or +blubber, to make oil for our lamps, and other uses. Fresh water was in +no less plenty than were birds; for every gully afforded a large stream. +But not a single tree, or shrub, nor the least sign of any, was to be +discovered, and but very little herbage of any sort. The appearances, as +we sailed into the harbour, had flattered us with the hope of meeting +with something considerable growing here, as we observed the sides of +many of the hills to be of a lively green. But I now found that this was +occasioned by a single plant, which, with the other natural productions, +shall be described in another place. Before I returned to my ship, I +ascended the first ridge of rocks, which rise in a kind of amphitheatre +above one another. I was in hopes, by this means, of obtaining a view of +the country; but before I reached the top, there came on so thick a fog, +that I could hardly find my way down again. In the evening, we hauled +the seine at the head of the harbour, but caught only half a dozen small +fish. We had no better success next day, when we tried with hook and +line. So that our only resource here, for fresh provisions, were birds, +of which there was an inexhaustible store. + +The morning of the 26th proved foggy, with rain. However, we went to +work to fill water, and to cut grass for our cattle, which we found in +small spots near the head of the harbour. The rain which fell swelled +all the rivulets to such a degree, that the sides of the hills, bounding +the harbour, seemed to be covered with a sheet of water. For the rain, +as it fell, run into the fissures and crags of the rocks that composed +the interior parts of the hills, and was precipitated down their sides +in prodigious torrents. + +The people having wrought hard the two preceding days, and nearly +completed our water, which we filled from a brook at the left corner of +the beach, I allowed them the 27th as a day of rest, to celebrate +Christmas. Upon this indulgence, many of them went on shore, and made +excursions, in different directions, into the country, which they found +barren and desolate in the highest degree. In the evening, one of them +brought to me a quart bottle which he had found, fastened with some wire +to a projecting rock on the north side of the harbour. This bottle +contained a piece of parchment, on which was written the following +inscription: + + _Ludovico XV. Galliarum + rege, et d.[109] de Boynes + regi a Secretis ad res + maritimas annis 1772 et + 1773. + +[Footnote 109: The (d.), no doubt, is a contraction of the word +_Domino_. The French secretary of the marine was then Monsieur de +Boynes.--D.] + +From this inscription, it is clear, that we were not the first Europeans +who had been in this harbour. I supposed it to be left by Monsieur de +Boisguehenneu, who went on shore in a boat on the 13th of February, +1772, the same day that Monsieur de Kerguelen discovered this land, as +appears by a note in the French chart of the southern hemisphere, +published the following year.[110] + +[Footnote 110: On perusing this paragraph of the journal, it will be +natural to ask, How could Monsieur de Boisguehenneu, in the beginning of +1772, leave an inscription, which, upon the very face of it, +commemorates a transaction of the following year? Captain Cook's manner +of expressing himself here, strongly marks, that he made this +supposition, only for want of information to enable him to make any +other. He had no idea that the French had visited this land a second +time; and, reduced to the necessity of trying to accommodate what he saw +himself, to what little he had heard of their proceedings, he confounds +a transaction which we, who have been better instructed, know, for a +certainty, belongs to the second voyage, with a similar one, which his +chart of the southern hemisphere has recorded, and which happened in a +different year, and at a different place. + +The bay, indeed, in which Monsieur de Boisguehenneu landed, is upon the +west side of this land, considerably to the south of Cape Louis, and not +far from another more southerly promontory, called Cape Bourbon; a part +of the coast which our ships were not upon. Its situation is marked upon +the chart constructed for this voyage; and a particular view of the bay +du Lion Marin, (for so Boisguehenneu called it,) with the soundings, is +preserved by Kerguelen. + +But if the bottle and inscription found by Captain Cook's people were +not left here by Boisguehenneu, by whom and when were they left? This we +learn most satisfactorily, from the accounts of Kerguelen's second +voyage, as published by himself and Monsieur de Pages, which present us +with the following particulars:--"That they arrived on the west side of +this land on the 14th of December, 1773; that steering to the N.E., they +discovered, on the 16th, the Isle de Reunion, and the other small +islands as mentioned above; that, on the 17th, they had before them the +principal land, (which they were sure was connected with that seen by +them on the 14th,) and a high point of that land, named by them Cape +Francois; that beyond this cape, the coast took a south-easterly +direction, and behind it they found a bay, called by them Baie de +l'Oiseau, from the name of their frigate; that they then endeavoured to +enter it, but were prevented by contrary winds and blowing weather, +which drove them off the coast eastward; but that, at last, on the 6th +of January, Monsieur de Rosnevet, captain of the Oiseau, was able to +send his boat on shore into this bay, under the command of Monsieur de +Rochegude, one of his officers, who took possession of that bay, and of +all the country, in the name of the King of France, with all the +requisite formalities." + +Here then we trace, by the most unexceptionable evidence, the history of +the bottle and inscription; the leaving of which was, no doubt, one of +the requisite formalities observed by Monsieur de Rochegude on this +occasion. And though he did not land till the 6th of January 1774, yet, +as Kerguelen's ships arrived upon the coast on the 14th of December +1773, and had discovered and looked into this very bay on the 17th of +that month, it was with the strictest propriety and truth that 1773, and +not 1774, was mentioned as the date of the discovery. + +We need only look at Kerguelen's and Cook's charts, to judge that the +Baie de l'Oiseau, and the harbour where the French inscription was +found, is one and the same place. But besides this agreement as to the +general position, the same conclusion results more decisively still, +from another circumstance worth mentioning: The French, as well as the +English visitors of this bay and harbour, have given us a particular +plan of it; and whoever compares them, must be struck with a resemblance +that could only be produced by copying one common original with +fidelity. Nay, even the soundings are the same upon the same spots in +both plans, being forty-five fathoms between the two capes, before the +entrance of the bay; sixteen fathoms farther in, where the shores begin +to contract; and eight fathoms up, near the bottom of the harbour. + +To these particulars, which throw abundant light on this part of our +author's journal, I shall only add, that the distance of our harbour +from that where Boisguehenneu landed in 1772, is forty leagues. For +this we have the authority of Kerguelen, in the following +passage:--"Monsieur de Boisguehenneu descendit le 13 de Fevrier 1772, +dans un baie, qu'il nomme Baie du Lion Marin, & prit possession de cette +terre au nom de Roi; il n'y vit aucune trace d'habitants. Monsieur de +Rochegude, en 1774, a descendu dans un autre baie, que nous avons nomme +Baie de l'Oiseau, & cette seconde rade est a quarantes lieues de la +premiere. Il en a egalement pris possession, & il n'y trouva egalement +aucune trace d'habitants." _Kerguelen_, p. 92.--D.] + +As a memorial of our having been in this harbour, I wrote on the other +side of the parchment, + + _Naves Resolution + et Discovery + de Rege Magnae Britanniae, + Decembris_ 1776. + +I then put it again into a bottle, together with a silver two-penny +piece of 1772; and having covered the mouth of the bottle with a leaden +cap, I placed it the next morning in a pile of stones erected for the +purpose, upon a little eminence on the north shore of the harbour, and +near to the place where it was first found, in which position it cannot +escape the notice of any European, whom chance or design may bring into +this port. Here I displayed the British flag, and named the place +Christmas Harbour, from our having arrived in it on that festival. + +It is the first or northernmost inlet that we meet with on the S.E. side +of the Cape St Louis,[111] which forms the N. side of the harbour, and +is also the northern point of this land. The situation alone is +sufficient to distinguish it from any of the other inlets; and, to make +it more remarkable, its S. point terminates in a high rock, which is +perforated quite through, so as to appear like the arch of a bridge. We +saw none like this upon the whole coast.[112] The harbour has another +distinguishing mark within, from a single stone or rock, of a vast size, +which lies on the top of a hill on the S. side, near its bottom; and +opposite this, on the N. side, there is another hill, much like it, but +smaller. There is a small beach at its bottom, where we commonly landed; +and, behind it, some gently rising ground, on the top of which is a +large pool of fresh-water. The land on both sides of the inlet is high, +and it runs in W., and W.N.W., about two miles. Its breadth is one mile +and a quarter, for more than half its length, above which it is only +half a mile. The depth of water, which is forty-five fathoms at the +entrance, varies, as we proceed farther in, from thirty to five and +four fathoms. The shores are steep; and the bottom is every where a fine +dark sand, except in some places close to the shore, where there are +beds of sea-weed, which always grows on rocky ground. The head of the +harbour lies open only to two points of the compass; and even these are +covered by islands in the offing, so that no sea can fall in to hurt a +ship. The appearances on shore confirmed this; for we found grass +growing close to high-water mark, which is a sure sign of a pacific +harbour.[113] It is high-water here, at the full and change days, about +ten o'clock; and the tide rises and falls about four feet. + +[Footnote 111: Cape Francois, for reasons already assigned.--D.] + +[Footnote 112: If there could be the least doubt remaining, of the +identity of the Baie de l'Oiseau and Christmas Harbour, the circumstance +of the perforated rock, which divides it from another bay to the south, +would amount to a strict demonstration. For Monsieur de Pages had +observed this discriminating mark before Captain Cook. His words are as +follows:--"L'on vit que la cote de l'Est, voisine du Cap Francois, avoit +deux baies; elles etoient separees par une pointe tres reconnoissable +par sa forme, _qui representoit une porte cochere, au travers de +laquelle l'on voyoit le jour_."--Voyages du M. de Pages, vol. ii. p. 67. +Every one knows how exactly the form of a _porte cochere_, or arched +gateway, corresponds with that of the arch of a bridge. It is very +satisfactory to find the two navigators, neither of whom knew any thing +of the other's description, adopting the same idea; which both proves +that they had the same uncommon object before their eyes, and that they +made an accurate report.--D.] + +[Footnote 113: In the last note, we saw how remarkably Monsieur de Pages +and Captain Cook agree about the appearance of the south point of the +harbour; I shall here subjoin another quotation from the former, +containing his account of the harbour itself, in which the reader may +trace the same distinguishing features observed by Captain Cook in the +foregoing paragraph. + +"Le 6, l'on mit a terre dans la premiere baie a l'Est du Cap Francois, & +l'on prit possession de ces contrees. Ce mouillage consiste en une +petite rade, qui a environs quatres encablures, ou quatre cents toises +de profondeur, sur un tiers en sus de largeur. En dedans de cette rade +est un petit port, dont l'entree, de quatres encablures de largeur, +presente au Sud-Est. La sonde de la petite rade est depuis quarante-cinq +jusqu'a trente brasses; et celle du port depuis seize jusqu'a huit. Le +fond des deux est de sable noir et vaseux. La cote des deux bords est +haute, & par une pente tres rude; elle est couverte de verdure, & il y a +une quantite prodigieuse d'Outardes. Le fond du port est occupe par un +monticule qui laisse entre lui, et la mer une plage de sable. Une petite +riviere, de tres bonne eau, coule a la mer dans cet endroit; & elle est +fournie par un lac qui est un peu au loin, au dessus du monticule. Il y +avoit sur le plage beaucoup de pinguoins & de lions marins. Ces deux +especes d'animaux ne fuyoient pas, & l'on augura que le pays n'etoit +point habite; la terre rapportoit de l'herbe large, noire, & bien +nourrie, qui n'avoit cependant que cinque pouces ou plus de hauteur. +L'on ne vit aucun arbre, ni signe l'habitation."--_Voyage du Monsieur de +Pages_, tom. ii. p. 69, 70.--D.] + +After I had finished this business of the inscription, I went in my boat +round the harbour, and landed in several places, to examine what the +shore afforded; and, particularly, to look for drift wood. For, although +the land here was totally destitute of trees, this might not be the case +in other parts; and if there were any, the torrents would force some, +or, at least, some branches, into the sea, which would afterward throw +them upon the shores, as in all other countries where there is wood, and +in many where there is none: But throughout the whole extent of the +harbour, I found not a single piece. + +In the afternoon, I went upon Cape St Louis,[114] accompanied by Mr +King, my second lieutenant. I was in hopes, from this elevation, to have +had a view of the sea-coast, and of the islands lying off it. But, when +I got up, I found every distant object below me hid in a thick fog. The +land on the same plain, or of a greater height, was visible enough, and +appeared naked and desolate in the highest degree, except some hills to +the southward, which were covered with snow. + +[Footnote 114: Cape Francois.--D.] + +When I got on board, I found the launch hoisted in, the ships unmoored, +and ready to put to sea; but our sailing was deferred till five o'clock +the next morning, when we weighed anchor.[115] + +[Footnote 115: The reader is probably not a little wearied with Dr +Douglas's minute comparisons of Kerguelen's and Cook's accounts of the +lands in question, which indeed seem unworthy of so much concern. It was +of consequence, however, to guard our navigator's reputation; and some +persons may relish the discussion, as exhibiting the acumen and good +sense which the detector of the infamous Lauder, and the author of "The +Criterion," so eminently possessed.--E.] + + +SECTION V. + +_Departure from Christmas Harbour.--Range along the Coast, to discover +its Position and Extent.--Several Promontories and Bays, and a +Peninsula, described and named.--Danger from Shoals.--Another Harbour +and a Sound.--Mr Anderson's Observations on the Natural Productions, +Animals, Soil, &c. of. Kerguelen's Land_. + + +As soon as the ships were out of Christmas Harbour, we steered S.E. 1/2 +S., along the coast, with a fine breeze at N.N.W., and clear weather. +This we thought the more fortunate, as, for some time past, fogs had +prevailed, more or less, every day; and the continuance of them would +have defeated our plan of extending Kerguelen's discovery. We kept the +lead constantly going; but seldom struck ground with a line of fifty or +sixty fathoms. + +About seven or eight o'clock, we were off a promontory, which I called +Cape Cumberland. It lies a league and a half from the south point of +Christmas Harbour, in the direction of S.E. 1/2 S. Between them is a bay +with two arms, both of which seemed to afford good shelter for shipping. +Off Cape Cumberland is a small but pretty high island, on the summit of +which is a rock like a sentry-box, which occasioned our giving that name +to the island. Two miles farther to the eastward, lies a group of small +islands and rocks, with broken ground about them: We sailed between +these and Sentry-Box Island, the channel being a full mile broad, and +more than forty fathoms deep; for we found no bottom with that length of +line. + +Being through this channel, we discovered, on the south side of Cape +Cumberland, a bay, running in three leagues to the westward. It is +formed by this Cape to the north, and by a promontory to the south, +which I named Point Pringle, after my good friend Sir John Pringle, +President of the Royal Society. The bottom of this bay was called +Cumberland Bay; and it seemed to be disjoined from the sea, which washes +the N.W. coast of this country, by a narrow neck of land. Appearances, +at least, favoured such a conjecture. + +To the southward of Point Pringle, the coast is formed into a fifth bay; +of which this point is the northern extreme; and from it to the southern +extreme, is about four miles in the direction of S.S.E. 1/4 E. In this +bay, which obtained the name of White Bay, on account of some white +spots of land or rocks in the bottom of it, are several lesser bays or +coves, which seemed to be sheltered from all winds. Off the south point +are several rocks which raise their heads above water; and, probably, +many more than do that. + +Thus far our course was in a direction parallel to the coast, and not +more than two miles from it. Thither our glasses were continually +pointed; and we could easily see that, except the bottoms of the bays +and coves, which, for the most part, terminated in sandy beaches, the +shores were rocky, and, in many places, swarmed with birds; but the +country had the same barren and naked appearance as in the neighbourhood +of Christmas Harbour. + +We had kept, on our larboard bow, the land which first opened off Cape +St Louis,[116] in the direction of S. 53 deg. E., thinking that it was an +island, and that we should find a passage between it and the main. We +now discovered this to be a mistake; and found that it was a peninsula, +joined to the rest of the coast by a low isthmus. I called the bay, +formed by this peninsula, Repulse Bay; and a branch of it seemed to run +a good way inland towards the S.S.W. Leaving this, we steered for the +northern point of the peninsula, which we named Howe's Foreland, in +honour of Admiral Lord Howe. + +[Footnote 116: Cape Francois.] + +As we drew near it, we perceived some rocks and breakers near the N.W. +part; and two islands a league and a half to the eastward of it, which, +at first, appeared as one. I steered between them and the Foreland;[117] +and was in the middle of the channel by noon. At that time our latitude, +by observation, was 48 deg. 51' S.; and we had made twenty-six miles of east +longitude from Cape St Louis.[118] + +[Footnote 117: Though Kerguelen's ships, in 1773, did not venture to +explore this part of the coast, Monsieur de Pages's account of it +answers well to Captain Cook's. "Du 17 au 23, l'on ne prit d'autre +connoissance que celle de la figure de la cote, qui, courant d'abord au +Sud-Est, & revenant ensuite au Nord-Est, formoit un grand golfe. Il +etoit occupe par des brisans & des rochers; il avoit aussi une isle +basse, & assez etendue, & l'on usa d'une bien soigneuse precaution, pour +ne pas s'affaler dans ce golfe."--_Voyage du M. de Pages_, tom. ii. p. +67.--D.] + +[Footnote 118: Cape Francois.] + +From this situation, the most advanced land to the southward bore S.E.; +but the trending of the coast from the Foreland was more southerly. The +islands which lie off Christmas Harbour bore N.; and the north point of +the Foreland N. 60 deg. W., distant three miles. The land of this Peninsula, +or Foreland, is of a moderate height, and of a hilly and rocky +substance. The coast is low, with rocky points shooting out from it; +between which points are little coves, with sandy beaches; and these, at +this time, were mostly covered with sea birds. We also saw upon them +some seals. + +As soon as we were clear of the rocks and islands before mentioned, I +gave orders to steer S.E. by S. along the coast. But before these orders +could be carried into execution, we discovered the whole sea before us +to be chequered with large beds of rock-weed, which we knew to be fast +to the bottom, and to grow on rocky shoals. I had often found a great +depth of water on such shoals; and I had, as often, found rocks that +have raised their heads nearly to the surface of the water. It is always +dangerous, therefore, to sail over them before they are well examined; +but more especially, when there is no surge of the sea to discover the +danger. This was the case at present, for the sea was as smooth as a +mill-pond. Consequently we endeavoured to avoid them, by steering +through the winding channels by which they were separated. We kept the +lead continually going; but never struck ground with a line of sixty +fathoms. This circumstance increased the danger, as we could not anchor, +whatever necessity there might be for it. After running in this manner +above an hour, we discovered a lurking rock, just even with the surface +of the sea. It bore N.E. 1/2 E., distant three or four miles, and lay in +the middle of one of these large beds of weeds. This was a sufficient +warning to make us use every precaution to prevent our coming upon them. + +We were now cross the mouth of a large bay, that lies about eight miles +to the southward of Howe's Foreland. In and before the entrance of this +bay are several low islands, rocks, and those beds of sea-weed. But +there seemed to be winding channels between them. After continuing our +course half an hour longer, we were so much embarrassed with these +shoals, that I resolved to haul off to the eastward, as the likeliest +means of extricating ourselves from the danger that threatened us. But +so far was this from answering the intended purpose, that it brought us +into more. I therefore found it absolutely necessary to secure the +ships, if possible, in some place before night; especially as the +weather had now become hazy, and a fog was apprehended. And seeing some +inlets to the S.W. of us, I ordered Captain Clerke, as the Discovery +drew less water than the Resolution, to lead in for the shore; which was +accordingly done. + +In standing in, it was not possible to avoid running over the edges of +some of the shoals, on which we found from ten to twenty fathoms water; +and the moment we were over, had no ground at the depth of fifty +fathoms. After making a few boards to weather a spit that run out from +an island on our lee, Captain Clerke made the signal for having +discovered an harbour; in which, about five o'clock, we anchored in +fifteen fathoms water, over a bottom of fine dark sand, about three +quarters of a mile from the shore; the north point of the harbour +bearing N. by E. 1/2 E., one mile distant; and the small islands in the +entrance, within which we anchored, extending from E. to S.E. + +Scarcely were the ships secured, when it began to blow very strong; so +that we thought it prudent to strike top-gallant yards. The weather, +however, continued fair; and the wind dispersing the fog that had +settled on the hills, it was tolerably clear also. The moment, +therefore, we had anchored, I hoisted out two boats; in one of which I +sent Mr Bligh, the master, to survey the upper part of the harbour, and +look for wood; for not a shrub was to be seen from the ship. I also +desired Captain Clerke to send his master to sound the channel that is +on the south side of the small isles, between them and a pretty large +island which lies near the south point of the harbour. Having given +these directions, I went myself, in my other boat, accompanied by Mr +Gore, my first lieutenant, and Mr Bayly, and landed on the north point, +to see what I could discover from thence. + +From the highest hill over the point, we had a pretty good view of the +sea-coast, as far as Howe's Foreland. It is much indented, and several +rocky points seemed to shoot out from it, with coves and inlets of +unequal extent. One of the latter, the end of which I could not see, was +disjoined from that in which the ships were at anchor, by the point we +then stood upon. A great many small islands, rocks, and breakers, +appeared scattered along the coast, as well to the southward as +northward; and I saw no better channel to get out of the harbour, than +by the one through which we had entered it. + +While Mr Bayly and I were making the observations, Mr Gore encompassed +the hill, and joined us by a different route, at the place where I had +ordered the boat to wait for us. Except the craggy precipices, we met +with nothing to obstruct our walk. For the country was, if possible, +more barren and desolate than about Christmas Harbour. And yet, if there +be the least fertility in any part of this land, we ought to have found +it in this, which is completely sheltered from the predominating bleak +southerly and westerly winds. I observed, with regret, that there was +neither food nor covering for cattle of any sort; and that, if I left +any, they must inevitably perish. In the little cove where the boat +waited for us (which I called Penguin Cove, as the beach was covered +with these birds), is a fine rivulet of fresh water, that may be easily +come at. Here were also some large seals, shags, and a few ducks; and Mr +Bayly had a transient sight of a very small land bird; but it flew +amongst the rocks, and we lost it. About nine o'clock we got on board. + +Soon after, Mr Bligh returned, and reported, that he had been four miles +up the harbour, and, as he judged, not far from the head of it. He found +that its direction was W.S.W.; and that its breadth, a little above the +ships, did not exceed a mile; but grew narrower toward the head. The +soundings were very irregular, being from thirty-seven to ten fathoms; +and, except under the beds of sea-weed, which in many places extended +from the shore near half channel over, the bottom was a fine sand. He +landed on both shores, which he found barren and rocky, without the +least signs of tree or shrub, and with very little verdure of any kind. +Penguins, and other oceanic birds and seals, occupied part of the coast, +but not in such numbers as at Christinas Harbour. + +Finding no encouragement to continue our researches, and, the next +morning, both wind and weather being favourable, I weighed anchor and +put to sea. To this harbour I gave the name of Port Palliser, in honour +of my worthy friend Admiral Sir Hugh Palliser. It is situated in the +latitude of 49 deg. 3' S., in the longitude of 69 deg. 37' E., and five leagues +from Howe's Foreland, in the direction of S. 25 deg. E. There are several +islands, rocks, and breakers lying in and without the entrance. We went +in and out between them and the north head; but I have no doubt that +there are other channels. + +As we were standing out of Port Palliser, we discovered a round hill, +like a sugar-loaf, in the direction of S. 72 deg. E., about nine leagues +distant. It had the appearance of an island lying at some distance from +the coast; but we afterward found it was upon the main land. In getting +out to sea, we had to steer through the winding channels amongst the +shoals. However, we ventured to run over some of them, on which we never +found less than eighteen fathoms, and often did not strike ground with +twenty-four; so that, had it not been for the sea-weed growing upon all +of them, they would not have been discovered. + +After we had got about three or four leagues from the coast, we found a +clear sea, and then steered E. till nine o'clock, when the Sugar Loaf +hill, above mentioned, which I named Mount Campbell, bore S.E., and a +small island that lies to the northward of it, S.S.E., distant four +leagues. I now steered more southerly, in order to get in with the land. +At noon, the latitude by double altitudes was 49 deg. 8' S.; and we had made +eighty miles of east longitude from Cape St Louis.[119] Mount Campbell +bore S. 47 deg. W., distant about four leagues; a low point, beyond which no +land was to be seen, bore S.S.E., at the distance of about twenty miles; +and we were about two leagues from the shore. + +[Footnote 119: Cape Francois.] + +The land here is low and level.[120] The mountains ending about five +leagues from the low point, a great extent of low land is left, on which +Mount Campbell is situated, about four miles from the foot of the +mountains, and one from the sea coast. These mountains have a +considerable elevation, as also most of the inland ones. They seemed to +be composed of naked rocks, whose summits were capt with snow. Nor did +the valleys appear to greater advantage. To whatever quarter we directed +our glasses, nothing but sterility was to be seen. + +[Footnote 120: This part of the coast seems to be what the French saw on +the 5th of January 1774. Monsieur de Pages speaks of it thus: "Nous +reconnumes une nouvelle cote etendue de toute veu dans l'Est, & dans le +Ouest. Les terres de cette cote etoient moins elevees que celles que +nous avions veues jusques ici; elles etoient aussi d'un aspect moins +rude."--_De Pages_, tom. ii. p. 68.--D.] + +We had scarcely finished taking the bearings at noon, before we observed +low land opening off the low point just mentioned, in the direction of +S.S.E., and eight miles beyond it. This new point proved to be the very +eastern extremity of this land, and it was named Cape Digby. It is +situated in the latitude of 49 deg. 23' S., and in the longitude of 70 deg. 34' +E. + +Between Howe's Foreland and Cape Digby, the shore forms (besides the +several lesser bays and harbours) one great bay that extends several +leagues to the S.W., where it seemed to lose itself in various arms +running in, between the mountains. A prodigious quantity of sea-weed +grows all over it, which seemed to be the same sort of weed that Sir +Joseph Banks distinguished by the name of _fucus giganteus_. Some of +this weed is of a most enormous length, though the stem is not much +thicker than a man's thumb. I have mentioned, that on some of the shoals +upon which it grows, we did not strike ground with a line of twenty-four +fathoms. The depth of water, therefore, must have been greater. And as +this weed does not grow in a perpendicular direction, but makes a very +acute angle with the bottom, and much of it afterward spreads many +fathoms on the surface of the sea, I am well warranted to say, that some +of it grows to the length of sixty fathoms and upward. + +At one o'clock (having run two leagues upon a S.E. 1/2 E. course, from +noon) we sounded, and found eighteen fathoms water, and a bottom of fine +sand. Seeing a small bending in the coast, on the north side of Cape +Digby, I steered for it. It was my intention to anchor there, if I +should find it might be done with safety, and to land on the Cape, to +examine what the low land within it produced. After running in one +league, we sounded again, and found thirteen fathoms; and immediately +after, saw a shoal right before us, that seemed to extend off from the +shore, from which we were distant about two miles. This discovery +obliged us to haul off, E. by S., one league, where our depth of water +increased to twenty-five fathoms. We then steered along shore, and +continued in the same depth, over a bottom of fine sand, till Cape +Digby bore W., two leagues distant, when we found twenty-six fathoms. + +After this we did not strike ground, though we tried several times; but +the ship having a good deal of way, ran the line out before the lead +could reach the bottom, and being disappointed in my views both of +anchoring and of landing, I would not shorten sail, but pushed forward, +in order to see as much of the coast as possible before night. From Cape +Digby, it trends nearly S.W. by S. for about four or five leagues, or to +a low point, to which, in honour of her majesty, I gave the name of +Point Charlotte, and it is the southernmost on the low coast. + +Six leagues from Cape Digby, in the direction of S.S.W. 1/2 W., is a +pretty high projecting point, which was called Prince of Wales's +Foreland; and six leagues beyond that, in the same direction, and in the +latitude of 49 deg. 54' S., and the longitude of 70 13' E., is the most +southerly point of the whole coast, which I distinguished by the name of +Cape George, in honour of his majesty. + +Between Point Charlotte and Prince of Wales's Foreland, where the +country to the S.W. began again to be hilly, is a deep inlet, which was +called Royal Sound. It runs in W. quite to the foot of the mountains +which bound it on the S.W., as the low land before-mentioned does on the +N. There are islands lying in the entrance, and others higher up, as far +as we could distinguish. As we advanced to the S. we observed, on the +S.W. side of Prince of Wales's Foreland, another inlet into Royal Sound; +and it then appeared, that the foreland was the E. point of a large +island lying in the mouth of it. There are several small islands in this +inlet; and one about a league to the southward of Prince of Wales's +Foreland. + +All the land on the S.W. side of Royal Sound, quite to Cape George, is +composed of elevated hills, that rise directly from the sea, one behind +another, to a considerable height. Most of the summits were capt with +snow, and they appeared as naked and barren as any we had seen. The +smallest vestige of a tree or shrub was not discoverable, either inland +or on the coast; and, I think, I may venture to pronounce that the +country produces none. The low land about Cape Digby, when examined +through our glasses, resembled the rest of the low land we had before +met with; that is, it appeared to be partly naked and partly covered +with a green turf, a description of which shall be given in its proper +place. The shore is composed of sandy beaches, on which were many +penguins, and other oceanic birds; and an immense number of shags kept +perpetually flying about the ships as we sailed along. + +Being desirous of getting the length of Cape George, to be assured +whether or no it was the most southerly point of the whole land, I +continued to stretch to the S. under all the sail we could carry, till +half an hour past seven o'clock, when, seeing no likelihood of +accomplishing my design, as the wind had by this time shifted to W.S.W., +the very direction in which we wanted to go, I took the advantage of the +shifting of the wind, and stood away from the coast. + +At this time Cape George bore S. 53 deg. W. distant about seven leagues. A +small island that lies off the pitch of the cape was the only land we +could see to the south of it; and we were farther confirmed that there +was no more in that quarter by a S.W. swell which we met as soon as we +brought the cape to bear in this direction. + +But we have still a stronger proof that no part of this land can extend +much, if at all, to the southward of Cape George, and that is, Captain +Furneaux's track in February, 1773, after his separation from me during +my late voyage. His log-book is now lying before me; and I find from it, +that he crossed the meridian of the land only about seventeen leagues to +the southward of Cape George, a distance at which it may very well be +seen in clear weather. This seems to have been the case when Captain +Furneaux passed it. For his log-book makes no mention of fogs or hazy +weather; on the contrary, it expressly tells us, that, when in this +situation, they had it in their power to make observations, both for +latitude and longitude, on board his ship; so that, if this land extends +farther S. than Cape George, it would have been scarcely possible that +he should have passed without seeing it. + +From these circumstances we are able to determine, within a very, few +miles, the quantity of latitude that this land occupies, which does not +much exceed one degree and a quarter. As to its extent from E. to W. +that still remains undecided. We only know, that no part of it can +reach so far to the W. as the meridian of 65 deg., because, in 1773, under +that meridian, I searched for it in vain.[121] + +[Footnote 121: If the French observations, as marked upon Captain Cook's +chart, and still more authentically upon that published by their own +discoverers, may be depended upon, this land doth not reach so far to +the W. as the meridian of 63 deg.; Cape Louis, which is represented as its +most westerly point, being laid down by them to the E. of that +meridian.--D.] + +The French discoverers, with some reason, imagined Cape St Louis[122] to +be the projecting point, of the southern continent. The English have +since proved that no such continent exists, and that the land in +question is an island of no great extent;[123] which, from its +sterility, I should, with great propriety, call the Island of +Desolation, but that I would not rob Monsieur de Kerguelen of the honour +of its bearring his name.[124] + +[Footnote 122: The idea of Cape Louis being this projecting point of a +southern continent must have soon vanished, as Cape Francois, within a +year after, was found, by the same discoverer, to lie above one third of +a degree farther N. upon the same land. But if Kerguelen entertained any +such imagination at first, we are sure that afterwards he thought very +differently. This appears from the following explicit declaration of his +sentiments, which deserves to be transcribed from his late publication, +as it does equal honour to his candour, and Captain Cook's +abilities:--"La terre que j'ai decouverte est certainement _une Isle_; +puisque le celebre Capitaine Cook a passe au Sud, lors de son premiere +voyage, sans rien rencontrer. Je juge ineme, que cette isle _n'est pas +bien grande_. Il y a aussi apparence, d'apres le Voyage de Monsieur +Cook, que toute cette etendue de Mers Meridionales, est semee d'lsles ou +de rochers; mais qu'il n'y a _ni continent ni grande terre_." Kerguelen, +p. 92.--D.] + +[Footnote 123: Kerguelen, as we see in the last note, concurs with +Captain Cook as to this. However, he tells us, that he has reason to +believe that it is about 200 leagues in circuit; and that he was +acquainted with about fourscore leagues of its coast. "J'en connois +environs quatre-vingt lieues des cotes; et; j'ai lieu de croire, qu'elle +a environ deux cents lieues de circuit." _Kerguelen, page_32--D.] + +[Footnote 124: Some of Monsieur de Kerguelen's own countrymen seem more +desirous than we are to rob him of his honour. It is very remarkable, +that Monsieur de Pages never once mentions the name of his commander; +and, though he takes occasion to enumerate the several French explorers +of the southern hemisphere, from Gonneville down to Crozet, he affects +to preserve an entire silence about Kerguelen, whose first voyage, in +which the discovery of this considerable tract of land was made, is kept +as much out of sight as if it never had taken place. Nay, not satisfied +with refusing to acknowledge the right of another, he almost assumes it +to himself. For, upon a map of the world annexed to his book, at the +spot where the new land is delineated, we read this inscription, _Isles +nouvelles Australes vuees par Monsieur de Pages, en_ 1774. He could +scarcely have expressed himself in stronger terms, if he had meant to +convey an idea that he was the conductor of the discovery. And yet we +know that he was only a lieutenant [Enseigne de vaisseau] on board of +one of three ships commanded by Kerguelen; and that the discovery had +been already made in a former voyage, undertaken while he was actually +engaged in his singular journey round the world. + +After all, it cannot but be remarked, that Kerguelen was peculiarly +unfortunate in having done so little to complete what he had begun. He +discovered a new land indeed; but, in two expeditions to it, he could +not once bring his ships to an anchor upon any part of its coasts. +Captain Cook, as we have seen in this, and in the foregoing chapter, had +either fewer difficulties to struggle with, or was more successful in +surmounting them.--D.] + +Mr Anderson, my surgeon, who, as I have already mentioned, had made +natural history a part of his studies, lost no opportunity, during the +short time we lay in Christmas Harbour, of searching the country in +every direction. He afterward communicated to me the observations he +made on its natural productions; and I shall insert them here in his own +words. + +"Perhaps no place hitherto discovered in either hemisphere, under the +same parallel of latitude, affords so scanty a field for the naturalist +as this barren spot. The verdure which appears, when at a little +distance from the shore, would flatter one with the expectation of +meeting with some herbage; but in this we were much deceived. For on +landing, we saw that this lively colour was occasioned only by one small +plant, not much unlike some sorts of _saxifrage_, which grows in large +spreading tufts to a considerable way up the hills. It forms a surface +of a pretty large texture, and grows on a kind of rotten turf, into +which one sinks a foot or two at every step. This turf, dried, might, in +cases of necessity, serve for fuel, and is the only thing we met with +here that could possibly be applied to this use." + +"There is another plant, plentifully enough scattered about the boggy +declivities, which grows to near the height of two feet, and not much +unlike a small cabbage, when it has shot into seeds. The leaves about +the root are numerous, large, and rounded; narrower at the base, and +ending in a small point. Those on the stalks are much smaller, oblong, +and pointed. The stalks, which are often three or four, all rise +separately from the root, and run into long cylindrical heads, composed +of small flowers. It has not only the appearance, but the watery acrid +taste of the antiscorbutic plants, and yet differs materially from the +whole tribe; so that we looked upon it as a production entirely peculiar +to the place. We ate it frequently raw, and found it almost like the New +Zealand scurvy grass. But it seemed to acquire a rank flavour by being +boiled; which, however, some of our people did not perceive, and +esteemed it good. If it could be introduced into our kitchen gardens, it +would, in all probability, improve so far by cultivation as to be an +excellent pot-herb. At this time none of its seeds were ripe enough to +be preserved, and brought home, to try the experiment." + +"Two other small plants were found near the brooks and boggy places, +which were eaten as sallad; the one almost like garden cresses, and very +fiery, and the other very mild. This last, though but small, is in +itself a curiosity; having not only male and female, but what the +botanists call _androgynous_ plants." + +"A coarse grass, which we cut down for the cattle, grows pretty +plentifully in a few small spots about the sides of the harbour, with a +smaller sort, which is rarer; and upon the flat ground a sort of +goose-grass, and another small plant much like it. In short, the whole +catalogue of plants does not exceed sixteen or eighteen, including some +sorts of moss, and a beautiful species of _lichen_, which grows upon the +rocks, higher up than the rest of the vegetable productions. Nor is +there even the least appearance of a shrub in the whole country." + +"Nature has rather been more bountiful in furnishing it with animals, +though, strictly speaking, they are not inhabitants of the place, being +all of the marine kind; and, in general, only using the land for +breeding and for a resting-place. The most considerable are seals, or +(as we used to call them) sea-bears, being that sort called the ursine +seal. These come ashore to rest or breed; but they were not very +numerous, which is not to be wondered at, as it is known that these +animals rather frequent out-rocks, and little islands lying off coasts, +than bays or inlets. They were, at this time, shedding their hair, and +so tame, that we killed what number we chose." + +"No other quadruped, either of the sea or of the land kind, was seen; +but a great number of birds, viz. ducks, petrels, albatrosses, shags, +gulls, and sea-swallows." + +"The ducks are about the size of a teal or widgeon, but somewhat +different in colour from either. They were in tolerable plenty about the +sides of the hills, or even lower; and we killed a considerable number, +which were good, and without the least fishy taste. We met with some of +the same sort at the island of Georgia in our late voyage." + +"The cape petrel, or pintado bird; the small blue one, which is always +seen at sea, and the small black one, or Mother Carey's chicken, are not +here in great numbers. But we found a nest of the first with an egg in +it, about the size of a pullet's; and the second, though scarce, was met +with in some holes like rabbit-burrows." + +"Another sort, which is the largest of all the petrels, and called by +the seamen Mother Carey's goose, is in greater numbers, and so tame, +that at first we could kill them with a stick upon the beach. They are +not inferior in size to an albatross, and are carnivorous, feeding on +the dead carcasses of seals or birds that were thrown into the sea. +Their colour is a sooty brown, with a greenish bill and feet; and, +doubtless, they are the same that the Spaniards call _quebrantahuessos_, +whose head is figured in Pernetty's Voyage to Falkland Islands."[125] + +[Footnote 125: Fig. 3, plate viii.] + +"Of the albatrosses, none were found on shore except the grey one, which +is commonly met with at sea in the higher southern latitudes. Once I saw +one of these sitting in the cliff of a rock, but they were frequently +flying about the harbour; and the common large sort, as well as the +smaller with a black face, were seen farther out." + +"Penguins form, by far, the greatest number of birds here, and are of +three sorts; the first, or largest, I have seen formerly at the island +of Georgia.[126] It is also mentioned by Bougainville;[127] but it does +not seem to be so solitary as he represents it, for we found +considerable numbers flocking together. The head is black, the upper +part of the body a leaden grey, and the under part white, with black +feet. It has two broad stripes of fine yellow, that begin on the sides +of the head, and, descending by each side of the neck, meet above its +breast. The bill is partly reddish, and longer than in the other sorts." + +[Footnote 126: Pennant's Patagonian penguin. See his Genera of Birds, +tab. 14, p. 66.] + +[Footnote 127: Voyage autour du Monde, p. 69.] + +"The second sort of penguins scarcely exceeds half the size of the +former. The upper part of the body is a blackish grey, with a white spot +on the upper part of the head, growing broader at each side. The bill +and feet are yellowish. A very accurate figure and description, both of +this and of the preceding, is given by Mr Sonnerat."[128] + +[Footnote 128: Voyage a la Nouvelle Guinee, p. 181, 182. Tab. 113, 115.] + +"The third sort of penguin met with here, had never been seen by any of +us before. Its length is twenty-four inches, and its breadth twenty. The +upper part of the body and throat are black, the rest white, except the +upper part of the head, which has a fine yellow arch, looking backward, +and ending on each side in long soft feathers, which it can erect as two +crests." + +"The two first sorts were found together on the beach; the large ones +keeping by themselves, and walking in small flocks amongst the others, +which were more numerous, and were sometimes seen a considerable way up +the sides of the hills. The third sort were only found by themselves, +but in great numbers, on the outer shores of the harbour. They were +breeding at this time; and they lay on the bare stones only one white +egg, larger than that of a duck. All the three sorts of penguins were so +tame, that we took as many as we pleased with our hands." + +"The shags of this place are of two sorts; the lesser cormorant or +water-crow, and another, which is black above, with a white belly, the +same that is found in New Zealand, Terra del Fuego, and the island of +Georgia." + +"We also met with here the common sea-gull, sea-swallow, tern, and Port +Egmont hen; the last of which were tame and numerous." + +"Another sort of white bird, flocks of which flew about the bay, is very +singular, having the base of the bill covered with a horny crust.[129] +It is larger than a pigeon, with the bill black and the feet white, made +like those of a curlew. Some of our people put it in competition with +the duck as food." + +[Footnote 129: The sheath-bill. See Pennant's Genera of Birds, p. 43.] + +"The seine was hauled once, but we found only a few fish about the size +of a small haddock, though quite different from any we knew. The snout +is lengthened, the head armed with some strong spines, the rays of the +back-fin long, and very strong, the belly is large, and the body without +scales. The only shell-fish are a few limpets and muscles; and amongst +the stones a few small star-fish and sea-anemonies were found." + +"The hills are of a moderate height; yet many of their tops were covered +with snow at this time, though answering to our June. Some of them have +large quantities of stones, irregularly heaped together at their root, +or on their sides. The sides of others, which form steep cliffs toward +the sea, are rent from the top downward, and seem ready to fall off, +having stones of a considerable size lying in the fissures. Some were of +opinion that frost might be the cause of these fissures, which I shall +not dispute; but how others of the appearances could be effected, but by +earthquakes, or some such severe shocks, I cannot say." + +"It appears that rain must be almost constant here, not only from the +marks of large torrents having rushed down, but from the disposition of +the country, which, even on the hills, is almost an entire bog or swamp, +the ground sinking at every step." + +"The rocks, or foundations of the hills, are composed chiefly of a dark +blue, and very hard, stone; intermixed with small particles of glimmer +or quartz. This seems to be one of the most universal productions of +nature, as it constitutes whole mountains in Sweden, in Scotland, at the +Canary Islands, the Cape of Good Hope, and at this place. Another +brownish brittle stone forms here some considerable rocks; and one which +is blacker, and found in detached pieces, incloses bits of coarse +quartz. A red, a dull yellow, and a purplish sand-stone, are also found +in small pieces; and pretty large lumps of semi-transparent quartz, +disposed irregularly in polyedral pyramidal crystals of long shining +fibres. Some small pieces of the common sort are met with in the brooks, +made round by attrition; but none hard enough to resist a file. Nor were +any of the other stones acted on by aquafortis, or attracted by the +magnet." + +"Nothing, that had the least appearance of an ore or metal, was seen." + + +SECTION VI. + +_Passage from Kerguelen's to Van Diemen's Land.--Arrival in Adventure +Bay.--Incidents there.--Interviews with the Natives.--Their Persons and +Dress described.--Account of their Behaviour.--Table of the Longitude, +Latitude, and Variation.--Mr Anderson's Observations on the Natural +Productions of the Country, on the Inhabitants, and their Language_. + + +After leaving Kerguelen's Land, I steered E. by N. intending, in +obedience to my instructions, to touch next at New Zealand, to recruit +our water, to take in wood, and to make hay for the cattle. Their +number, by this time, had been considerably diminished; two young bulls, +one of the heifers, two rams, and several of the goats, having of late +died, while we were employed in exploring this desolate coast. + +The 31st in the morning, being the day after we stood out to sea, we had +several observations of the sun and moon. Their results gave the +longitude 72 deg. 33' 36" E. The timekeeper, in this situation, gave 72 deg. 38' +15". These observations were the more useful, as we had not been able to +get any for some time before, and they now served to assure us that no +material error had crept into the time-keeper. + +On the 1st of January, being then in the latitude of 48 deg. 41' S. +longitude 76 deg. 50' E., the variation was 30 deg. 39' W.; and in the next day, +in the latitude of 48 deg. 22' S. longitude 80 deg. 22' E., it was 30 deg. 47' 18" +W. This was the greatest variation we found in this passage; for +afterward it began to decrease, but so slowly, that on the 3d, in the +evening, being then in the latitude of 48 deg. 16' S. longitude 85 deg. E., it +was 29 deg. 38' W. + +Thus far we had fresh gales from the W. and S.W., and tolerably clear +weather. But now the wind veered to the N. where it continued eight +days, and was attended with a thick fog. During this time we ran above +300 leagues in the dark. Now and then the weather would clear up, and +give us a sight of the sun; but this happened very seldom, and was +always of short continuance. On the 7th I hoisted out a boat, and sent +an order to Captain Clerke, appointing Adventure Bay, in Van Diemen's +Land, as our place of rendezvous, in case of separation before we +arrived in the meridian of that land. But we were fortunate enough, +amidst all this foggy weather, by frequently firing guns as signals, +though we seldom saw each other, not to lose company. + +On the 12th, being in the latitude of 48 deg. 40' S. longitude 110 deg. 26' E. +the northerly winds ended in a calm; which, after a few hours, was +succeeded by a wind from the southward. This, with rain, continued for +twenty-four hours, when it freshened, and veered to the W. and N.W., and +brought on fair and clear weather. + +We continued our course to the eastward, without meeting with any thing +worthy of notice, till four o'clock in the morning of the 19th, when, in +a sudden squall of wind, though the Discovery received no damage, our +fore-top-mast went by the board, and carried the main-top-gallant-mast +with it. This occasioned some delay, as it took up the whole day to +clear the wreck, and fit another top-mast. The former was accomplished +without losing any part of it, except a few fathoms of small rope. Not +having a spare main-top-gallant-mast on board, the fore-top-gallant-mast +was converted into one for our immediate use. + +The wind continued westerly, blew a fresh gale, and was attended with +clear weather, so that scarcely a day passed without being able to get +observations for fixing the longitude, and the variation of the compass. +The latter decreased in such a manner, that in the latitude of 44 deg. 18' +S. longitude 132 deg. 2' E., it was no more than 5 deg. 34' 18" W.; and on the +22d, being then in the latitude of 43 deg. 27' S. longitude 141 deg. 50' E., it +was 1 deg. 24' 15" E. So that we had crossed the Line where the compass has +no variation. + +On the 24th, at three o'clock in the morning, we discovered the coast of +Van Diemen's Land, bearing N. 1/2 W. At four o'clock the S.W. cape bore +N.N.W. 1/2 W., and the Mewstone N.E. by E. three leagues distant. There +are several islands and high rocks lying scattered along this part of +the coast, the southernmost of which is the Mewstone. It is a round +elevated rock, five or six leagues distant from the S.W. cape, in the +direction of S. 55 deg. E. + +At noon, our latitude was 43 deg. 47' S. longitude 147 deg. E., and the +situation of the lands round us as follows: An elevated round-topped +hill bore N. 17 deg. W.; the S.W. cape N. 74 deg. W.; the Mewstone W. 1/2 N.; +Swilly Isle, or Rock, S. 49 deg. E.; and the S.E. of S. cape N. 40 deg. E. +distant near three leagues. The land between the S.W. and S. capes is +broken and hilly, the coast winding, with points shooting out from it; +but we were too far off to be able to judge whether the bays formed by +these points were sheltered from the sea-winds. The bay which appeared +to be the largest and deepest, lies to the westward of the peaked hill +above mentioned. The variation of the compass here was 5 deg. 15' E. + +At six o'clock in the afternoon we sounded, and found sixty fathoms +water, over a bottom of broken coral and shells. The S. cape then bore +N. 75 deg. W. two or three leagues distant; Tasman's Head N.E.; and Swilly +Rock S. by W 1/2 W. About a league to the eastward of Swilly is another +elevated rock, that is not taken notice of by Captain Furneaux. I called +it the Eddystone, from its very great resemblance to that light-house. +Nature seems to have left these two rocks here for the same purpose that +the Eddystone light-house was built by man, viz. to give navigators +notice of the dangers around them; for they are the conspicuous summits +of a ledge of rocks under water, on which the sea, in many places, +breaks very high. Their surface is white with the dung of sea-fowls; so +that they may be seen at some distance even in the night. On the N.E. +side of Storm Bay, which lies between the S. cape and Tasman's Head, +there are some coves or creeks, that seemed to be sheltered from the +sea-winds; and I am of opinion, that, were this coast examined, there +would be found some good harbours. + +Soon after we had sight of land the westerly winds left us, and were +succeeded by variable light airs and alternate calms, till the 26th at +noon. At that time a breeze sprung up and freshened at S.E. which put it +in my power to carry into execution the design I had, upon due +consideration, formed, of carrying the ships into Adventure Bay, where I +might expect to get a supply of wood and of grass for the cattle; of +both which articles we should, as I now found, have been in great want +if I had waited till our arrival in New Zealand. We therefore stood for +the bay, and anchored in it at four o'clock in the afternoon, at twelve +fathoms water, over a bottom of sand and ooze. Penguin Island, which +lies close to the E. point of the bay, bore N. 84 deg. E.; the southernmost +point of Maria's Islands bore N. 76 deg. 1/2 E.; and Cape Frederick Henry, +or the N. point of the bay, bore N. 33 deg. E. Our distance from the nearest +shore was about three quarters of a mile. + +As soon as we had anchored, I ordered the boats to be hoisted out. In +one of them I went myself to look for the most commodious place for +furnishing ourselves with the necessary supplies; and Captain Clerke +went in his boat upon the same service. Wood and water we found in +plenty, and in situations convenient enough, especially the first. But +grass, of which we stood most in need, was scarce, and also very coarse. +Necessity, however, obliged us to take such as we could get. + +Next morning early, I sent Lieutenant King to the E. side of the bay +with two parties, one to cut wood, and the other to cut grass, under the +protection of the marines, whom I judged it prudent to land as a guard. +For although, as yet, none of the natives had appeared, there could be +no doubt that some were in our neighbourhood, as we had seen columns of +smoke from the time of our approaching the coast, and some now was +observed at no great distance up in the woods, I also sent the launch +for water; and afterward visited all the parties myself. In the evening, +we drew the seine at the head of the bay, and, at one haul, caught a +great quantity of fish. We should have got many more, had not the net +broken in drawing it ashore. Most of them were of that sort known to +seamen by the name of elephant fish. After this, every one repaired on +board with what wood and grass we had cut, that we might be ready to +sail whenever the wind should serve. + +This not happening next morning, the people were sent on shore again on +the same duty as the day before. I also employed the carpenter, with +part of his crew, to cut some spars for the use of the ship; and +dispatched Mr Roberts, one of the mates, in a small boat to survey the +bay. + +In the afternoon, we were agreeably surprised, at the place where we +were cutting wood, with a visit from some of the natives, eight men and +a boy. They approached as from the woods, without betraying any marks of +fear, or rather with the greatest confidence imaginable; for none of +them, had any weapons, except one who held in his hand a stick about two +feet long, and pointed at one end. + +They were quite naked, and wore no ornaments, unless we consider as +such, and as a proof of their love of finery, some small punctures or +ridges raised on different parts of their bodies, some in straight, and +others in curved lines. + +They were of the common stature, but rather slender. Their skin was +black, and also their hair, which was as woolly as that of any native of +Guinea; but they were not distinguished by remarkably thick lips, nor +flat noses. On the contrary, their features were far from being +disagreeable. They had pretty good eyes; and their teeth were tolerably +even, but very dirty. Most of them had their hair and beards smeared +with a red ointment; and some had their faces also painted with the same +composition. + +They received every present we made to them without the least appearance +of satisfaction. When some bread was given, as soon as they understood +that it was to be eaten, they either returned it, or threw it away, +without even tasting it. They also refused some elephant fish, both raw +and dressed, which we offered to them. But upon giving some birds to +them, they did not return these, and easily made us comprehend that they +were fond of such food. I had brought two pigs ashore, with a view to +leave them in the woods. The instant these came within their reach, they +seized them, as a dog would have done, by the ears, and were for +carrying them off immediately, with no other intention, as we could +perceive, but to kill them. + +Being desirous of knowing the use of the stick which one of our visitors +carried in his hand, I made signs to them to shew me; and so far +succeeded, that one of them set up a piece of wood as a mark, and threw +at it at the distance of about twenty yards. But we had little reason to +commend his dexterity; for, after repeated trials, he was still very +wide from the object. Omai, to shew them how much superior our weapons +were to theirs, then fired his musquet at it, which alarmed them so +much, that notwithstanding all we could do or say, they ran instantly +into the woods. One of them was so frightened, that he let drop an axe +and two knives that had been given to him. From us, however, they went +to the place where some of the Discovery's people were employed in +taking water into their boat. The officer of that party, not knowing +that they had paid us so friendly a visit, nor what their intent might +be, fired a musquet in the air, which sent them off with the greatest +precipitation. + +Thus ended our first interview with the natives. Immediately after their +final retreat, judging that their fears would prevent their remaining +near enough to observe what was passing, I ordered the two pigs, being a +boar and sow, to be carried about a mile within the woods at the head of +the bay. I saw them left there, by the side of a fresh-water brook. A +young bull and a cow, and some sheep and goats, were also, at first, +intended to have been left by me, as an additional present to Van +Diemen's Land. But I soon laid aside all thought of this, from a +persuasion that the natives, incapable of entering into my views of +improving their country, would destroy them. If ever they should meet +with the pigs, I have no doubt this will be their fate. But as that race +of animals soon becomes wild, and is fond of the thickest cover of the +woods, there is great probability of their being preserved. An open +place must have been chosen for the accommodation of the other cattle; +and, in such a situation, they could not possibly have remained +concealed many days. + +The morning of the 29th was ushered in with a dead calm, which continued +all day, and effectually prevented our sailing. I therefore sent a +party over to the E. point of the bay to cut grass, having been informed +that some of a superior quality grew there. Another party, to cut wood, +was ordered to go to the usual place, and I accompanied them myself. We +had observed several of the natives this morning sauntering along the +shore, which assured us, that though their consternation had made them +leave us so abruptly the day before, they were convinced that we +intended them no mischief, and were desirous of renewing the +intercourse. It was natural that I should wish to be present on the +occasion. + +We had not been long landed, before about twenty of them, men and boys, +joined us, without expressing the least sign of fear or distrust. There +was one of this company conspicuously deformed, and who was not more +distinguishable by the hump upon his back, than by the drollery of his +gestures, and the seeming humour of his speeches, which he was very fond +of exhibiting, as we supposed, for our entertainment. But, +unfortunately, we could not understand him; the language spoken here +being wholly unintelligible to us. It appeared to me to be different +from that spoken by the inhabitants of the more northern parts of this +country, whom I met with in my first voyage; which is not extraordinary, +since those we now saw, and those we then visited, differ in many other +respects.[130] Nor did they seem to be such miserable wretches as the +natives whom Dampier mentions to have seen on its western coast.[131] + +[Footnote 130: The most striking difference seems to be with regard to +the texture of the hair. The natives whom Captain Cook met with at +Endeavour River in 1769, are said, by him, to have "naturally long and +black hair, though it be universally cropped short. In general it is +straight, but sometimes it has a slight curl. We saw none that was not +matted and filthy. Their beards were of the same colour with the hair, +and bushy and thick." + +It may be necessary to mention here, on the authority of Captain King, +that Captain Cook was very unwilling to allow that the hair of the +natives now met with in Adventure Bay was _woolly_, fancying that his +people, who first observed this, had been deceived, from its being +clotted with grease and red ochre. But Captain King prevailed upon him +afterward to examine carefully the hair of the boys, which was +generally, as well as that of the women, free from this dirt; and then +he owned himself satisfied that it was naturally _woolly_. Perhaps we +may suppose it possible, that he himself had been deceived when he was +in Endeavour River, from this very circumstance, as he expressly says, +that "they saw none that was not matted and filthy."--D.] + +[Footnote 131: And yet Dampier's New Hollanders, on the western coast, +bear a striking resemblance to Captain Cook's at Van Diemen's Land, in +many remarkable instances:-- + +1st, As to their becoming familiar with the strangers. + +2dly, As to their persons; being straight-bodied and thin, their skin +black, and black, short, curled hair, like the negroes of Guinea, with +wide mouths. + +3dly, As to their wretched condition, having no houses, no garment, no +canoes, no instrument to catch large fish; feeding on broiled muscles, +cockles, and periwinkles; having no fruits of the earth; their weapons a +straight pole, sharpened and hardened at the end, &c. &c. + +The chief peculiarities of Dampier's _miserable wretches_ are, 1st, +Their eye-lids being always half closed, to keep the flies out, which +were excessively troublesome there; and, 2dly, Their wanting the two +fore-teeth of the upper jaw, and their having no beards. See Dampier's +Voyages, vol. i. p. 464, &c. There seems to be no reason for supposing +that Dampier was mistaken in the above account of what he saw.--D.] + + +Some of our present group wore, loose, round their necks, three or four +folds of small cord, made of the fur of some animal; and others of them +had a narrow slip of the kangooroo skin tied round their ankles. I gave +to each of them a string of beads and a medal, which I thought they +received with some satisfaction. They seemed to set no value on iron, or +on iron tools. They were even ignorant of the use of fish-hooks, if we +might judge from their manner of looking at some of ours which we shewed +to them. + +We cannot, however, suppose it to be possible that a people who inhabit +a sea-coast, and who seem to derive no part of their sustenance from the +productions of the ground, should not be acquainted with some mode of +catching fish, though we did not happen to see any of them thus +employed, nor observe any canoe, or vessel, in which they could go upon +the water. Though they absolutely rejected the sort of fish that we +offered to them, it was evident that shell-fish, at least, made a part +of their food, from the many heaps of muscle-shells we saw in different +parts near the shore, and about some deserted habitations near the head +of the bay. These were little sheds, or hovels, built of sticks, and +covered with bark. We could also perceive evident signs of their +sometimes taking up their abode in the trunks of large trees, which had +been hollowed out by fire, most probably for this very purpose. In or +near all these habitations, and wherever there was a heap of shells, +there remained the marks of fire, an indubitable proof that they do not +eat their food raw. + +After staying about an hour with the wooding party and the natives, as I +could now be pretty confident that the latter were not likely to give +the former any disturbance, I left them, and went over to the +grass-cutters on the east point of the bay, and found that they had met +with a fine patch. Having seen the boats loaded, I left that party, and +returned on board to dinner; where, some time after, Lieutenant King +arrived. + +From him I learnt, that I had but just left the shore, when several +women and children made their appearance, and were introduced to him by +some of the men who attended them. He gave presents to all of them, of +such trifles as he had about him. These females wore a kangooroo skin +(in the same shape as it came from the animal) tied over the shoulders, +and round the waist. But its only use seemed to be to support their +children when carried on their backs, for it did not cover those parts +which most nations conceal; being, in all other respects, as naked as +the men, and as black, and their bodies marked with scars in the same +manner. But in this they differed from the men, that though their hair +was of the same colour and texture, some of them had their heads +completely shorn or shaved; in others this operation had been performed +only on one side, while the rest of them had all the upper part of the +head shorn close, leaving a circle of hair all round, somewhat like the +tonsure of the Romish ecclesiastics.[132] Many of the children had fine +features, and were thought pretty; but of the persons of the women, +especially those advanced in years, a less favourable report was made. +However, some of the gentlemen belonging to the Discovery, I was told, +paid their addresses, and made liberal offers of presents, which were +rejected with great disdain; whether from a sense of virtue, or the fear +of displeasing their men, I shall not pretend to determine. That this +gallantry was not very agreeable to the latter, is certain; for an +elderly man, as soon as he observed it, ordered all the women and +children to retire, which they obeyed, though some of them shewed a +little reluctance. + +[Footnote 132: Captain Cook's account of the natives of Van Diemen's +Land, in this chapter, no doubt proves that they differ, in many +respects, as he says, from the inhabitants of the more northerly parts +of the east coast of New Holland, whom he met with in his first voyage. +It seems very remarkable, however, that the only woman any of his people +came close to, in Botany Bay, should have her hair cropped short, while +the man who was with her, is said to have had the hair of his head +bushy, and his beard long and rough. Could the natives of Van Diemen's +Land be more accurately described, than by saying that the hair of the +men's heads is bushy, and their beards long and rough, and that the +women's hair is cropped short? So far north, therefore, as Botany Bay, +the natives of the east coast of New Holland seem to resemble those of +Van Diemen's Land, in this circumstance.--D.] + +This conduct of Europeans amongst savages, to their women, is highly +blameable; as it creates a jealousy in their men, that may be attended +with consequences fatal to the success of the common enterprise, and to +the whole body of adventurers, without advancing the private purpose of +the individual, or enabling him to gain the object of his wishes. I +believe it has been generally found among uncivilized people, that where +the women are easy of access, the men are the first to offer them to +strangers; and that, where this is not the case, neither the allurement +of presents, nor the opportunity of privacy, will be likely to have the +desired effect. This observation, I am sure, will hold good, throughout +all the parts of the South Sea where I have been. Why then should men +act so absurd a part, as to risk their own safety, and that of all their +companions, in pursuit of a gratification which they have no probability +of obtaining?[133] + +[Footnote 133: In uncivilized nations, the women are completely +subservient to the power and desires of the men, without seeming to +possess, or to be allowed, a will or thought of their own. Amongst them, +therefore, the primitive mode of temptation must be reversed, and the +husband is first to be gained over. When this is done, all that follows, +is understood and intended by him, as a sort of temporary barter; and +the favours of his wife, or daughter, are valued by him just in the +proportion they are sought for by those with whom he is dealing. But +where his animal necessities can scarcely be supplied, it cannot be +imagined that he will be very sensible to the force of toys and trinkets +as objects of temptation. These, on the other hand, will carry most +persuasion, where, through the greater bounty of nature, an avenue has +been opened for the display of vanity and the love of ornament. Any +opposition on the female part in either case, is of no avail as a +barrier against strangers, as he who is most concerned to protect it, +finds his account in its sacrifice. We have instances of both in Captain +Cook's voyages.--E.] + +In the afternoon I went again to the grass-cutters, to forward their +work. I found them then upon Penguin Island, where they had met with a +plentiful crop of excellent grass. We laboured hard till sun-set, and +then repaired on board, satisfied with the quantity we had collected, +and which I judged sufficient to last till our arrival in New Zealand. + +During our whole stay, we had either calms or light airs from the +eastward. Little or no time, therefore, was lost by my putting in at +this place. For if I had kept the sea, we should not have been twenty +leagues advanced farther on our voyage. And, short as our continuance +was here, it has enabled me to add somewhat to the imperfect +acquaintance that hath hitherto been acquired, with this part of the +globe. + +Van Diemen's Land has been twice visited before. It was so named by +Tasman, who discovered it in November 1642. From that time it had +escaped all farther notice by European navigators, till Captain Furneaux +touched at it in March 1773.[134] I hardly need say, that it is the +southern point of New Holland, which, if it doth not deserve the name of +a continent, is by far the largest island in the world. + +[Footnote 134: This is a mistake, though unintentional, no doubt, and +ignorantly on the part of Cook. Captain Marion, a French navigator, and +mentioned occasionally in these voyages, visited Van Diemen's Land about +a twelve-month before Captain Furneaux. The account of his voyage was +published at Paris in 1783, but is little known in England; for which +reason, and because of its possessing a considerable degree of interest, +Captain Flinders has given an abridgment of that portion of its contents +which respects the land in question. This the reader will find in his +introduction, p. 83, or he may content himself with being informed, that +the description it gives of the natives, &c, generally coincides with +what is furnished in the text. Subsequent to this voyage, it may be +remarked, Captain Bligh put into Adventure Bay with his majesty's ship +Bounty, viz. in 1788: and afterwards, viz. in 1792, the coast of Van +Diemen's Land was visited by the French Rear-Admiral D'Entrecasteaux.--E.] + +The land is, for the most part, of a good height, diversified with hills +and valleys, and every where of a greenish hue. It is well wooded; and, +if one may judge from appearances, and from what we met with in +Adventure Bay, is not ill supplied with water. We found plenty of it in +three or four places in this bay. The best, or what is most convenient +for ships that touch here, is a rivulet, which is one of several that +fall into a pond, that lies behind the beach at the head of the bay. It +there mixes with the sea-water, so that it must be taken up above this +pond, which may be done without any great trouble. Fire-wood is to be +got, with great ease, in several places. + +The only wind to which this bay is exposed, is the N.E. But as this wind +blows from Maria's Islands, it can bring no very great sea along with +it; and therefore, upon the whole, this may be accounted a very safe +road. The bottom is clean, good holding ground; and the depth of water +from twelve to five and four fathoms. + +Captain Furneaux's sketch of Van Diemen's Land, published with the +narrative of my last voyage, appears to me to be without any material +error, except with regard to Maria's Islands, which have a different +situation from what is there represented.[135] The longitude was +determined by a great number of lunar observations, which we had before +we made the land, while we were in sight of it, and after we had left +it; and reduced to Adventure Bay, and the several principal points, by +the time-keeper. The following table will exhibit both the longitude and +latitude at one view: + + Latitude South. Longitude East: + Adventure Bay, 43 deg. 21' 20" 147 deg. 29' 0" + Tasman's Head, 43 33 0 147 28 0 + South Cape, 43 42 0 146 56 0 + South-west Cape, 43 37 0 146 7 0 + Swilly Isle, 43 55 0 147 6 0 + + Adventure { Variation of the compass 5 deg. 15' E. + Bay, { Dip of the south end of the needle 70 deg. 15 1/2'. + +We had high-water on the 29th, being two days before the last quarter of +the moon, at nine in the morning. The perpendicular rise then was +eighteen inches, and there was no appearance of its ever having exceeded +two feet and a half. These are all the memorials useful to navigation, +which my short stay has enabled me to preserve, with respect to Van +Diemen's Land. + +[Footnote 135: But Captain Flinders has pointed out some other mistakes, +especially as to the Storm and Frederik Hendrik's Bays of Tasman, in +which, says he, "He has been followed by all the succeeding navigators, +of the same nation, which has created not a little confusion in the +geography of this part of the world." Let us prevent the perpetuity of +errors, by quoting another passage from the same most accurate and +skilful navigator. "The bay supposed to have been Storm Bay, has no name +in Tasman's chart; though the particular plan shews that he noticed it, +as did Marion, more distinctly. The rocks marked at the east point of +this bay, and called the Friars, are the _Boreal's Eylanden_ of Tasman; +the true Storm Bay is the deep inlet, of which Adventure Bay is a cove. +Frederik Hendrik's Bay is not within this inlet, but lies to the +north-eastward, on the outer side of the land which Captain Furneaux, in +consequence of his first mistake, took to be Maria's Island, but which, +in fact, is a part of the main land." A copy of Tasman's charts is given +in the atlas to D'Entrecasteaux's voyage; it is taken from Valantyn, and +is conformable to the manuscript charts in the Dutch journal. But +according to Flinders, it has an error of one degree too much east, in +the scale of longitude. Besides, he informs us, "In the plan of Frederik +Hendrik's Bay, the name is placed _within_ the inner bay, instead of +being written, as in the original, on the point of land between the +inner and outer bays." He imagines the name was intended to comprise +both, and refers to vol. iii. of Captain Burney's History of Discoveries +in the South Sea, for a copy of Tasman's charts as they stand in the +original.--E.] + +Mr Anderson, my surgeon, with his usual diligence, spent the few days we +remained in Adventure Bay, in examining the country. His account of its +natural productions, with which he favoured me, will more than +compensate for my silence about them: Some of his remarks on the +inhabitants will supply what I may have omitted, or represented +imperfectly; and his specimen of their language, however short, will be +thought worth attending to, by those who wish to collect materials for +tracing the origin of nations. I shall only premise, that the tall +strait forest trees, which Mr Anderson describes in the following +account, are of a different sort from those which are found in the more +northern parts of this coast. The wood is very long and close-grained, +extremely tough, fit for spars, oars, and many other uses; and would, on +occasion, make good masts, (perhaps none better,) if a method could be +found to lighten it. + +"At the bottom of Adventure Bay is a beautiful sandy beach, which seems +to be wholly formed by the particles washed by the sea from a very fine +white sand-stone, that in many places bounds the shore, and of which +Fluted Cape, in the neighbourhood, from its appearance, seems to be +composed. This beach is about two miles long, and is excellently adapted +for hauling a seine, which both ships did repeatedly with success. +Behind this is a plain or flat, with a salt, or rather brackish lake +(running in length parallel with the beach), out of which we caught, +with angling rods, many whitish bream, and some small trout. The other +parts of the country adjoining the bay are quite hilly; and both those +and the flat are an entire forest of very tall trees, rendered almost +impassable by shrubs, brakes of fern, and fallen trees; except on the +sides of some of the hills, where the trees are but thin, and a coarse +grass is the only interruption." + +"To the northward of the bay there is low land, stretching farther than +the eye can reach, which is only covered with wood in certain spots; but +we had no opportunity to examine in what respects it differed from the +hilly country. The soil on the flat land is either sandy, or consists of +a yellowish mould, and, in some places, of a reddish clay. The same is +found on the lower part of the hills; but farther up, especially where +there are few trees, it is of a grey tough cast, to appearance very +poor." + +"In the valleys between the hills, the water drains down from their +sides; and at last, in some places, forms small brooks; such, indeed, as +were sufficient to supply us with water, but by no means of that size we +might expect in so extensive a country, especially as it is both hilly +and well wooded. Upon the whole, it has many marks of being naturally a +very dry country; and perhaps might (independent of its wood) be +compared to Africa, about the Cape of Good Hope, though that lies ten +degrees farther northward, rather than to New Zealand, on its other +side, in the same latitude, where we find every valley, however small, +furnished with a considerable stream of water. The heat, too, appears to +be great, as the thermometer stood at 64, 70, and once at 74. And it was +remarked, that birds were seldom killed an hour or two, before they were +almost covered with small maggots, which I would rather attribute merely +to the heat; as we had not any reason to suppose there is a peculiar +disposition in the climate to render substances soon putrid." + +"No mineral bodies, nor indeed stones of any other sort but the white +sand one already mentioned, were observed. + +"Amongst the vegetable productions, there is not one, that we could +find, which afforded the smallest subsistence for man." + +"The forest trees are all of one sort, growing to a great height, and in +general quite straight, branching but little, till toward the top. The +bark is white, which makes them appear, at a distance, as if they had +been peeled; it is also thick; and within it are sometimes collected, +pieces of a reddish transparent gum or rosin, which has an astringent +taste. The leaves of this tree are long, narrow, and pointed; and it +bears clusters of small white flowers, whose cups were, at this time, +plentifully scattered about the ground, with another sort resembling +them somewhat in shape, but much larger; which makes it probable that +there are two _species_ of this tree. The bark of the smaller branches, +fruit, and leaves, have an agreeable pungent taste, and aromatic smell, +not unlike peppermint; and in its nature, it has some affinity to the +_myrtus_ of botanists." + +"The most common tree, next to this, is a small one about ten feet high, +branching pretty much, with narrow leaves, and a large, yellow, +cylindrical flower, consisting only of a vast number of filaments; +which, being shed, leave a fruit like a pine-top. Both the +above-mentioned trees are unknown in Europe." + +"The underwood consists chiefly of a shrub somewhat resembling a myrtle, +and which seems to be the _leptospermum scoparium_, mentioned in Dr +Foster's _Char. Gen. Plant._; and, in some places, of another, rather +smaller, which is a new _species_ of the _melaleuca_ of Linnaeus." + +"Of other plants, which are by no means numerous, there is a _species_ +of _gladiolus_, rush, bell-flower, samphire, a small sort of +wood-sorrel, milk-wort, cudweed, and Job's tears; with a few others, +peculiar to the place. There are several kinds of fern, as polypody, +spleenwort, female fern, and some mosses; but the _species_ are either +common, or at least found in some other countries, especially New +Zealand." + +"The only animal of the quadruped kind we got, was a sort of _opossum_, +about twice the size of a large rat; and is, most probably, the male of +that _species_ found at Endeavour river, as mentioned in Cook's first +voyage. It is of a dusky colour above, tinged with a brown or rusty +cast, and whitish below. About a third of the tail, towards its tip, is +white, and bare underneath; by which it probably hangs on the branches +of trees, as it climbs these, and lives on berries. The _kangooroo_, +another animal found farther northward in New Holland, as described in +the same voyage, without all doubt also inhabits here, as the natives we +met with had some pieces of their skins; and we several times saw +animals, though indistinctly, run from the thickets when we walked in +the woods, which, from the size, could be no other. It should seem also, +that they are in considerable numbers, from the dung we saw almost every +where, and from the narrow tracks or paths they have made amongst the +shrubbery." + +"There are several sorts of birds, but all so scarce and shy, that they +are evidently harrassed by the natives, who, perhaps, draw much of their +subsistence from them. In the woods, the principal sorts are large brown +hawks or eagles; crows, nearly the same as ours in England; yellowish +paroquets; and large pigeons. There are also three or four small birds, +one of which is of the thrush kind; and another small one, with a pretty +long tail, has part of the head and neck of a most beautiful azure +colour; from whence we named it _motacilla cyanea_. On the shore were +several common and sea gulls; a few black oyster-catchers, or sea-pies; +and a pretty plover of a stone colour, with a black hood. About the pond +or lake behind the beach, a few wild-ducks were seen; and some shags +used to perch upon the high leafless trees near the shore." + +"Some pretty large blackish snakes were seen in the woods; and we killed +a large, hitherto unknown, lizard, fifteen inches long, and six round, +elegantly clouded with black and yellow; besides a small sort, of a +brown gilded colour above, and rusty below." + +"The sea affords a much greater plenty, and at least as great a variety, +as the land. Of these the elephant fish, or _pejegallo_, mentioned in +Frezier's voyage,[136] are the most numerous; and though inferior to +many other fish, were very palatable food. Several large rays, nurses, +and small leather-jackets, were caught; with some small white bream, +which were firmer and better than those caught in the lake. We likewise +got a few soles and flounders; two sorts of gurnards, one of them a new +_species_; some small spotted mullet; and, very unexpectedly, the small +fish with a silver band on its side, called _atherina hipsetus_ by +Hasseiquist."[137] + +[Footnote 136: Tom. ii. p. 211. 12mo. Planche XVII.] + +[Footnote 137: _Iter Palastinum_.] + +"But that next in number, and superior in goodness, to the elephant +fish, was a sort none of us recollected to have seen before. It partakes +of the nature both of a round and of a flat fish, having the eyes placed +very near each other; the fore-part of the body much flattened or +depressed, and the rest rounded. It is of a brownish sandy colour, with +rusty spots on the upper part, and whitish below. From the quantity of +slime it was always covered with, it seems to live after the manner of +flat fish, at the bottom." + +"Upon the rocks are plenty of muscles, and some other small shell-fish. +There are also great numbers of sea-stars; some small limpets; and large +quantities of sponge; one sort of which, that is thrown on shore by the +sea, but not very common, has a most delicate texture; and another, is +the _spongia dichotoma_." + +"Many pretty _Medusa's heads_ were found upon the beach; and the +stinking _laplysia_ or sea-hare, which, as mentioned by some authors, +has the property of taking off the hair by the acrimony of its juice; +but this sort was deficient in this respect." + +"Insects, though not numerous, are here in considerable variety. Amongst +them are grasshoppers, butterflies, and several sorts of small moths, +finely variegated. There are two sorts of dragon-flies, gad-flies, +camel-flies; several sorts of spiders; and some scorpions; but the last +are rather rare. The most troublesome, though not very numerous tribe of +insects, are the musquitoes; and a large black ant, the pain of whose +bite is almost intolerable, during the short time it lasts. The +musquitoes, also, make up the deficiency of their number, by the +severity of their venomous _proboscis_." + +"The inhabitants whom we met with here, had little of that fierce or +wild appearance common to people in their situation; but, on the +contrary, seemed mild and cheerful, without reserve or jealousy of +strangers. This, however, may arise from their having little to lose or +care for." + +"With respect to personal activity or genius, we can say but little of +either. They do not seem to possess the first in any remarkable degree; +and as for the last, they have, to appearance, less than even the +half-animated inhabitants of Terra del Fuego, who have not invention +sufficient to make clothing for defending themselves from the rigour of +their climate, though furnished with the materials. The small stick, +rudely pointed, which one of them carried in his hand, was the only +thing we saw that required any mechanical exertion, if we except the +fixing on the feet of some of them pieces of _kangooroo_ skin, tied with +thongs; though it could not be learnt whether these were in use as +shoes, or only to defend some sore. It must be owned, however, they are +masters of some contrivance in the manner of cutting their arms and +bodies in lines of different lengths and directions, which are raised +considerably above the surface of the skin, so that it is difficult to +guess the method they use in executing this embroidery of their persons. +Their not expressing that surprise which one might have expected from +their seeing men so much unlike themselves, and things, to which, we +were well assured, they had been hitherto utter strangers; their +indifference for our presents; and their general inattention; were +sufficient proofs of their not possessing any acuteness of +understanding." + +"Their colour is a dull black, and not quite so deep as that of the +African negroes. It should seem also, that they sometimes heightened +their black colour, by smutting their bodies; as a mark was left behind +on any clean substance, such as white paper, when they handled it. Their +hair, however, is perfectly woolly, and it is clotted or divided into +small parcels, like that of the Hottentots, with the use of some sort of +grease, mixed with a red paint or ochre, which they smear in great +abundance over their heads. This practice, as some might imagine, has +not the effect of changing their hair into the frizzling texture we +observed; for, on examining the head of a boy, which appeared never to +have been smeared, I found the hair to be of the same kind. Their noses, +though not flat, are broad and full. The lower part of the face projects +a good deal, as is the case of more Indians I have seen; so that a line +let fall from the forehead would cut off a much larger portion, than it +would in Europeans. Their eyes are of a middling size, with the white +less clear than in us; and though not remarkably quick or piercing, such +as give a frank cheerful cast to the whole countenance. Their teeth are +broad, but not equal, nor well set; and, either from nature or from +dirt, not of so true a white as is usual among people of a black colour. +Their mouths are rather wide; but this appearance seems heightened by +wearing their beards long, and clotted with paint, in the same manner as +the hair on their heads. In other respects, they are well-proportioned; +though the belly seems rather projecting. This may be owing to the want +of compression there, which few nations do not use, more or less. The +posture of which they seem fondest, is to stand with one side forward, +or the upper part of the body gently reclined, and one hand grasping +(across the back) the opposite arm, which hangs down by the projecting +side." + +"What the ancient poets tell us of _Fauns_ and _Satyrs_ living in hollow +trees, is here realized. Some wretched constructions of sticks, covered +with bark, which do not even deserve the name of huts, were indeed found +near the shore in the bay; but these seemed only to have been erected +for temporary purposes; and many of their largest trees were converted +into more comfortable habitations. These had their trunks hollowed out +by fire, to the height of six or seven feet; and that they take up their +abode in them sometimes, was evident from the hearths, made of clay, to +contain the fire in the middle, leaving room for four or five persons to +sit round it.[138] At the same time, these places of shelter are +durable; for they take care to leave one side of the tree sound, which +is sufficient to keep it growing as luxuriantly as those which remain +untouched." + +[Footnote 138: Tasman, when in the bay of Frederick Henry, adjoining to +Adventure Bay, found two trees, one of which was two fathoms, and the +other two fathoms and a half in girth, and sixty or sixty-five feet +high, from the root to the branches.--See his Voyage, in Harris's +Collection, Campbell's Edition, vol. i. p. 326.--D.] + +"The inhabitants of this place are, doubtless, from the same stock with +those of the northern parts of New Holland. Though some of the +circumstances mentioned by Dampier, relative to those he met with on the +western coast of this country, such as their defective sight, and want +of fore-teeth, are not found here; and though Hawkesworth's account of +those met with by Captain Cook on the east side, shews also that they +differ in many respects; yet still, upon the whole, I am persuaded that +distance of place, entire separation, diversity of climate, and length +of time, all concurring to operate, will account for greater +differences, both as to their persons and as to their customs, than +really exist between our Van Diemen's Land natives, and those described +by Dampier, and in Captain Cook's first voyage. This is certain, that +the figure of one of those seen in Endeavour River, and represented in +Sidney Parkinson's Journal of that voyage, very much resembles our +visitors in Adventure Bay. That there is not the like resemblance in +their language, is a circumstance that need not create any difficulty. +For though the agreement of the languages of people living distant from +each other, may be assumed as a strong argument for their having sprung +from one common source, disagreement of language is by no means a proof +of the contrary."[139] + +[Footnote 139: The ingenious author of _Recherches sur les Americains_ +illustrates the grounds of this assertion in the following satisfactory +manner: "C'est quelque chose de surprenant, que la foule des idiomes, +tous varies entr'eux, que parlent les naturels de l'Amerique +Septentrionale. Qu'on reduise ces idiomes a des racines qu'on les +simplifie, qu'on en separe les dialectes et les jargons derives, il en +resulte toujours cinq ou six languesmeres, respectivement +incomprehensibles. On a observe la meme singularite dans la Siberie et +la Tartarie, ou le nombre des idiomes, et les dialectes, est egalement +multiplie; et rien n'est plus commun, que d'y voir deux hordes voisines +qui ne se comprennent point. On retrouve cette meme multiplicite de +jargons dans toutes les Provinces de l'Amerique Meridionale." [He might +also have included Africa.] "Il y a beaucoup d'apparence que _la vie +sauvage, en dispersant les hommes par petites troupes isolees dans des +bois epais, occasione necessairement cette grande diversite des +langues_, dont le nombre diminue a mesure que la societe, en rassemblant +les barbares vagabonds, en forme un corps de nation. Alors l'idiome le +plus riche, ou le moins panvre en mots, devient dominant, et absorbe les +autres." Tom. i. p. 159, 160.--D.] + +"However, we must have a far more intimate acquaintance with the +languages spoken here, and in the more northern parts of New Holland, +before we can be warranted to pronounce that they are totally different. +Nay, we have good grounds for the opposite opinion; for we found that +the animal called _kangooroo_ at Endeavour river, was known under the +same name here; and I need not observe, that it is scarcely possible to +suppose that this was not transmitted from one another, but accidentally +adopted by two nations, differing in language and extraction. Besides, +as it seems very improbable that the Van Diemen's Land inhabitants +should have ever lost the use of canoes or sailing vessels, if they had +been originally conveyed thither by sea, we must necessarily admit that +they, as well as the _kangooroo_ itself, have been stragglers by land +from the more northern parts of the country. And if there be any force +in this observation, while it traces the origin of the people, it will, +at the same time, serve to fix another point, if Captain Cook and +Captain Furneaux have not already decided it, that New Holland is no +where totally divided by the sea into islands, as some have +imagined."[140] + +[Footnote 140: The reader is aware of the erroneous opinion generally +entertained at this time, of Van Diemen's Land being connected with the +continent of New Holland. He will therefore modify the remark above +given, as to its inhabitants being stragglers by land from the more +northern parts of the country. It is of some consequence also to inform +him, that in the visit of D'Entrecasteaux, it was found that the people +who inhabited the shores of the channel were in possession of bark +canoes.--E.] + +"As the New Hollanders seem all to be of the same extraction, so neither +do I think there is any thing peculiar in them. On the contrary, they +much resemble many of the inhabitants whom I have seen at the islands +Tanna and Mallicolla. Nay, there is even some foundation for hazarding a +supposition, that they may have originally come from the same place with +all the inhabitants of the South Sea. For, of only about ten words which +we could get from them, that which expresses _cold_, differs little from +that of New Zealand and Otaheite; the first being _Mallareede_, the +second _Makkareede_, and the third _Mareede_. The rest of our very +scanty Van Diemen's Land Vocabulary is as follows: + + Quadne, _A woman._ + Everai, _The eye._ + Muidje, _The nose._ + Kamy, _The teeth, mouth, or tongue_. + Laerenne, _A small bird, a native of the woods here_. + Koygee, _The ear_. + Noonga, _Elevated scars on the body_. + Teegera, _To eat_. + Togarago, _I must begone,_ or, _I will go_. + +"Their pronunciation is not disagreeable; but rather quick; though not +more so than is that of other nations of the South Sea; and, if we may +depend upon the affinity of languages as a clue to guide us in +discovering the origin of nations, I have no doubt but we shall find, on +a diligent enquiry, and when opportunities offer to collect accurately a +sufficient number of these words, and to compare them, that all the +people from New Holland, eastward to Easter Island, have been derived +from the same common root."[141] + +[Footnote 141: We find Mr Anderson's notions on this subject conformable +to those of Mr Marsden, who has remarked, "that one general language +prevailed (however mutilated and changed in the course of time) +throughout all this portion of the world, from Madagascar to the most +distant discoveries eastward; of which the Malay is a dialect, much +corrupted or refined by a mixture of other tongues. This very extensive +similarity of language indicates a common origin of the inhabitants; but +the circumstances and progress of their separation are wrapped in the +darkest veil of obscurity."--_History of Sumatra_, p. 35. + +See also his very curious paper, read before the Society of Antiquaries, +and published in their _Archaeologia_, vol. vi, p. 155; where his +sentiments on this subject are explained more at large, and illustrated +by two Tables of corresponding Words.--D.] + + +SECTION VII. + +_The Passage from Van Diemen's Land to New Zealand.--Employments in +Queen Charlotte's Sound.--Transactions with the Natives +there.--Intelligence about the Massacre of the Adventure's Boat's +Crew.--Account of the Chief who headed the Party on that occasion.--Of +the two young Men who embark to attend Omai.--Various Remarks on the +Inhabitants.--Astronomical and Nautical Observations._ + + +At eight o'clock in the morning of the 30th of January, a light breeze +springing up at W., we weighed anchor, and put to sea from Adventure +Bay. Soon after, the wind veered to the southward, and increased to a +perfect storm. Its fury abated in the evening, when it veered to the E, +and N.E. + +This gale was indicated by the barometer, for the wind no sooner began +to blow, than the mercury in the tube began to fall. Another remarkable +thing attended the coming on of this wind, which was very faint at +first. It brought with it a degree of heat that was almost intolerable. +The mercury in the thermometer rose, as it were instantaneously, from +about 70 deg. to near 90 deg.. This heat was of so short a continuance, that it +seemed to be wafted away before the breeze that brought it; so that some +on board did not perceive it. + +We pursued our course to the eastward, without meeting with any thing +worthy of note, till the night between the 6th and 7th of February, when +a marine belonging to the Discovery fell over-board, and was never seen +afterward. This was the second misfortune of the kind that had happened +to Captain Clerke since he left England. + +On the 10th, at four in the afternoon, we discovered the land of New +Zealand. The part we saw proved to be Rock's Point, and bore S.E. by S., +about eight or nine leagues distant. During this run from Van Diemen's +Land, the wind, for the first four or five days, was at N.E., N., and +N.N.W., and blew, for the most part, a gentle breeze. It afterward +veered to S.E., where it remained twenty-four hours. It then came to W. +and S.W.; in which points it continued, with very little deviation, till +we reached New Zealand. + +After making the land, I steered for Cape Farewell, which at day-break +the next morning bore S. by W., distant about four leagues. At eight +o'clock, it bore S.W. by S., about five leagues distant; and, in this +situation, we had forty-five fathoms water over a sandy bottom. In +rounding the Cape we had fifty fathoms, and the same sort of bottom. + +I now steered for Stephens's Island, which we came up with at nine +o'clock at night; and at ten, next morning, anchored in our old station, +in Queen Charlotte's Sound. Unwilling to lose any time, our operations +commenced that very afternoon, when we landed a number of empty +water-casks, and began to clear a place where we might set up the two +observatories, and tents for the reception of a guard, and of such of +our people whose business might make it necessary for them to remain on +shore. + +We had not been long at anchor before several canoes, filled-with +natives, came along-side of the ships; but very few of them would +venture on board; which appeared the more extraordinary, as I was well +known to them all. There w as one man in particular amongst them, whom I +had treated with remarkable kindness, during the whole of my stay when I +was last here. Yet now, neither professions of friendship, nor presents, +could prevail upon him to come into the ship. This shyness was to be +accounted for only upon this supposition, that they were apprehensive we +had revisited their country, in order to revenge the death of Captain +Furneaux's people. Seeing Omai on board my ship now, whom they must have +remembered to have seen on board the Adventure when the melancholy +affair happened, and whose first conversation with them, as they +approached, generally turned on that subject, they must be well assured +that I was no longer a stranger to it. I thought it necessary, +therefore, to use every endeavour to assure them of the continuance of +my friendship, and that I should not disturb them on that account. I do +not know whether this had any weight with them; but certain it is, that +they very soon laid aside all manner of restraint and distrust. + +On the 13th we set up two tents, one from each ship, on the same spot +where we had pitched them formerly. The observatories were at the same +time erected; and Messrs King and Bayly began their operations +immediately, to find the rate of the time-keeper, and to make other +observations. The remainder of the empty water-casks were also sent on +shore, with the cooper to trim, and a sufficient number of sailors to +fill them. Two men were appointed to brew spruce beer; and the carpenter +and his crew were ordered to cut wood. A boat, with a party of men, +under the direction of one of the mates, was sent to collect grass for +our cattle; and the people that remained on board were employed in +refitting the ship, and arranging the provisions. In this manner we were +all profitably busied during our stay. For the protection of the party +on shore, I appointed a guard of ten marines, and ordered arms for all +the workmen; and Mr King, and two or three petty officers, constantly +remained with them. A boat was never sent to any considerable distance +from the ships without being armed, and under direction of such officers +as I could depend upon, and who were well acquainted with the natives. +During my former visits to this country, I had never taken some of these +precautions; nor were they, I firmly believe, more necessary now than +they had been formerly. But after the tragical fate of the Adventure's +boat's crew in this sound, and of Captain Marion du Fresne, and of some +of his people, in the Bay of Islands (in 1772), it was impossible +totally to divest ourselves of all apprehension of experiencing a +similar calamity. + +If the natives entertained any suspicion of our revenging these acts of +barbarity, they very soon laid it aside. For, during the course of this +day, a great number of families came from different parts or the coast, +and took up their residence close to us; so that there was not a spot in +the cove where a hut could be put up, that was not occupied by them, +except the place where we had fixed our little encampment. This they +left us in quiet possession of; but they came and took away the ruins of +some old huts that were there, as materials for their new erections. + +It is curious to observe with what facility they build these occasional +places of abode. I have seen above twenty of them erected on a spot of +ground, that, not an hour before, was covered with shrubs and plants. +They generally bring some part of the materials with them; the rest they +find upon the premises. I was present when a number of people landed, +and built one of these villages. The moment the canoes reached the +shore, the men leaped out, and at once took possession of a piece of +ground, by tearing up the plants and shrubs, or sticking up some part of +the framing of a hut. They then returned to their canoes, and secured +their weapons, by setting them up against a tree, or placing them in +such a position, that they could be laid hold of in an instant. I took +particular notice that no one neglected this precaution. While the men +were employed in raising the huts, the women were not idle. Some were +stationed to take care of the canoes; others to secure the provisions, +and the few utensils in their possession; and the rest went to gather +dry sticks, that a fire might be prepared for dressing their victuals. +As to the children, I kept them, as also some of the more aged, +sufficiently occupied in scrambling for beads, till I had emptied my +pockets, and then I left them. + +These temporary habitations are abundantly sufficient to afford shelter +from the wind and rain, which is the only purpose they are meant to +answer. I observed that, generally, if not always, the same tribe or +family, though it were ever so large, associated and built together; so +that we frequently saw a village, as well as their larger towns, divided +into different districts, by low pallisades, or some similar mode of +separation. + +The advantage we received from the natives coming to live with us, was +not inconsiderable. For, every day, when the weather would permit, some +of them went out to catch fish; and we generally got, by exchanges, a +good share of the produce of their labours. This supply, and what our +own nets and lines afforded us, was so ample, that we seldom were in +want of fish. Nor was there any deficiency of other refreshments. +Celery, scurvy-grass, and portable soup were boiled with the pease and +wheat, for both ships' companies, every day daring our whole stay; and +they had spruce-beer for their drink. So that, if any of our people had +contracted the seeds of the scurvy, such a regimen soon removed them. +But the truth is, when we arrived here, there were only two invalids +(and these on board the Resolution) upon the sick lists in both ships. + +Besides the natives who took up their abode close to us, we were +occasionally visited by others of them, whose residence was not far off; +and by some who lived more remote. Their articles of commerce were, +curiosities, fish, and women. The two first always came to a good +market, which the latter did not. The seamen had taken a kind of dislike +to these people, and were either unwilling, or afraid, to associate with +them; which produced this good effect, that I knew no instance of a +man's quitting his station, to go to their habitations. + +A connection with women I allow, because I cannot prevent it; but never +encourage, because I always dread its consequences. I know, indeed, that +many men are of opinion, that such an intercourse is one of our greatest +securities amongst savages; and perhaps they who, either from necessity +or choice, are to remain and settle with them, may find it so. But with +travellers and transient visitors, such as we were, it is generally +otherwise; and, in our situation, a connection with their women betrays +more men than it saves. What else can be reasonably expected, since all +their views are selfish, without the least mixture of regard or +attachment? My own experience, at least, which hath been pretty +extensive, hath not pointed out to me one instance to the contrary.[142] + +[Footnote 142: We ought to distinguish betwixt the affection of the +sexes, and those gross physical principles which lead to their temporary +intercourse. The latter exist, in some degree or other, wherever the +difference of sex is found; but the former is the result of refinement +in feeling, and a habit of reflection on objects of common interest, +which civilization alone can produce. This is with respect to members +of the same community; much more does the rule hold where strangers are +concerned. It is positively absurd for them to expect affection, where +the lawful and accustomed possessors of the she-savage have never yet +been fortunate enough to elicit its display. Well, therefore, has +Captain Cook remarked, that the motives which lead to their occasional +connexion are selfish, by which must be understood, the mercenary nature +of the principle which actuates the female.--E.] + +Amongst our occasional visitors was a chief named Kahoora, who, as I was +informed, headed the party that cut off Captain Furneaux's people, and +himself killed Mr Howe, the officer who commanded. To judge of the +character of Kahoora, by what I heard from many of his countrymen, he +seemed to be more feared than beloved amongst them. Not satisfied with +telling me that he was a very bad man, some of them even importuned me +to kill him; and, I believe, they were not a little surprised that I did +not listen to them; for, according to their ideas of equity, this ought +to have been done. But if I had followed the advice of all our pretended +friends, I might have extirpated the whole race; for the people of each +hamlet, or village, by turns, applied to me to destroy the other. One +would have almost thought it impossible, that so striking a proof of the +divided state in which this miserable people live, could have been +assigned. And yet I was sure that I did not misconceive the meaning of +those who made these strange applications to me; for Omai, whose +language was a dialect of their own, and perfectly understood all that +they said, was our interpreter. + +On the 15th, I made an excursion in my boat to look for grass, and +visited the Hippah, or fortified village at the S.W. point of Motuara, +and the places where our gardens had been planted on that island. There +were no people at the former; but the houses and pallisades had been +rebuilt, and were now in a state of good repair; and there were other +evident marks of its having been inhabited not long before. It would be +unnecessary, at present, to give a particular account of this Hippah, +sufficient notice having been taken of it in the account of my first +voyage. + +When the Adventure arrived first at Queen Charlotte's Sound, in 1773, Mr +Bayly fixed upon this place for making his observations; and he, and the +people with him, at their leisure hours, planted several spots with +English garden seeds. Not the least vestige of these now remained. It is +probable that they had been all rooted out to make room for buildings, +when the village was re-inhabited; for, at all the other gardens then +planted by Captain Furneaux, although now wholly over-run with the weeds +of the country, we found cabbages, onions, leeks, purslain, radishes, +mustard, &c. and a few potatoes. These potatoes, which were first +brought from the Cape of Good Hope, had been greatly improved by change +of soil; and, with proper cultivation, would be superior to those +produced in most other countries. Though the New Zealanders are fond of +this root, it was evident that they had not taken the trouble to plant a +single one (much less any other of the articles which we had +introduced); and if it were not for the difficulty of clearing ground +where potatoes had been once planted, there would not have been any now +remaining. + +On the 16th, at day-break, I set out with a party of men, in five boats, +to collect food for our cattle. Captain Clerke, and several of the +officers, Omai, and two of the natives, accompanied me. We proceeded +about three leagues up the sound, and then landed on the east side, at a +place where I had formerly been. Here we cut as much grass as loaded the +two launches. + +As we returned down the sound, we visited Grass Cove, the memorable +scene of the massacre of Captain Furneaux's people. Here I met with my +old friend Pedro, who was almost continually with me the last time I was +in this sound, and is mentioned in my History of that Voyage. He, and +another of his countrymen, received us on the beach, armed with the +pa-too and spear. Whether this form of reception was a mark of their +courtesy or of their fear, I cannot say; but I thought they betrayed +manifest signs of the latter. However, if they had any apprehensions, a +few presents soon removed them, and brought down to the beach two or +three more of the family; but the greatest part of them remained out of +sight. + +Whilst we were at this place, our curiosity prompted us to enquire into +the circumstances attending the melancholy fate of our countrymen; and +Omai was made use of as our interpreter for this purpose. Pedro, and the +rest of the natives present, answered all the questions that were put to +them on the subject, without reserve, and like men who are under no +dread of punishment for a crime of which they are not guilty. For we +already knew that none of them had been concerned in the unhappy +transaction. They told us, that while our people were sitting at dinner, +surrounded by several of the natives, some of the latter stole, or +snatched from them, some bread and fish, for which they were beat. This +being resented, a quarrel ensued, and two New Zealanders were shot dead, +by the only two musquets that were fired. For before our people had time +to discharge a third, or to load again those that had been fired, the +natives rushed in upon them, overpowered them with their numbers, and +put them all to death. Pedro and his companions, besides relating the +history of the massacre, made us acquainted with the very spot that was +the scene of it. It is at the corner of the cove on the right hand. They +pointed to the place of the sun, to mark to us at what hour of the day +it happened; and, according to this, it must have been late in the +afternoon. They also shewed us the place where the boat lay; and it +appeared to be about two hundred yards distant from that where the crew +were seated. One of their number, a black servant of Captain Furneaux, +was left in the boat to take care of her. + +We were afterward told that this black was the cause of the quarrel, +which was said to have happened thus: One of the natives stealing +something out of the boat, the Negro gave him a severe blow with a +stick. The cries of the fellow being heard by his countrymen at a +distance, they imagined he was killed, and immediately began the attack +on our people; who, before they had time to reach the boat, or to arm +themselves against the unexpected impending danger, fell a sacrifice to +the fury of their savage assailants. + +The first of these accounts was confirmed by the testimony of many of +the natives whom we conversed with at different times, and who, I think, +could have no interest in deceiving us. The second manner of relating +the transaction, rests upon the authority of the young New Zealander, +who chose to abandon his country and go away with us, and who, +consequently, could have no possible view in disguising the truth. All +agreeing that the quarrel happened when the boat's crew were sitting at +their meal, it is highly probable that both accounts are true, as they +perfectly coincide. For we may very naturally suppose, that while some +of the natives were stealing from the man who had been left in the boat, +others of them might take the same liberties with the property of our +people who were on shore. + +Be this as it will, all agree that the quarrel first took its rise from +some thefts, in the commission of which the natives were detected. All +agree, also, that there was no premeditated plan of bloodshed, and that, +if these thefts had not been unfortunately too hastily resented no +mischief would have happened. For Kahoora's greatest enemies, those who +solicited his destruction most earnestly, at the same time confessed +that he had no intention to quarrel, much less to kill, till the fray +had actually commenced. It also appears that the unhappy victims were +under no sort of apprehension of their fate, otherwise they never would +have ventured to sit down to a repast at so considerable a distance from +their boat, amongst people who were the next moment to be their +murderers. What became of the boat I never could learn. Some said she +was pulled to pieces and burnt, others told us that she was carried, +they knew not whither, by a party of strangers. + +We stayed here till the evening, when, having loaded the rest of the +boats with grass, celery, scurvy-grass, &c. we embarked to return to the +ships. We had prevailed upon Pedro to launch his canoe, and accompany +us; but we had scarcely put off from the shore when the wind began to +blow very hard at N.W., which obliged him to put back, We proceeded +ourselves, but it was with a good deal of difficulty that we could reach +the ships, where some of the boats did not arrive till one o'clock the +next morning; and it was fortunate that they got on board then, for it +afterward blew a perfect storm, with abundance of rain, so that no +manner of work could go forward that day. In the evening the gale +ceased, and the wind, having veered to the E., brought with it fair +weather. + +The next day we resumed our works; the natives ventured out to catch +fish; and Pedro, with all his family, came and took up his abode near +us. The chief's proper name is Matahouah; the other being given him by +some of my people during my last voyage, which I did not know till now. +He was, however, equally well known amongst his countrymen by both +names. + +On the 20th, in the forenoon, we had another storm from, the N.W. Though +this was not of so long continuance as the former, the gusts of wind +from the hills were far more violent, insomuch that we were obliged to +strike the yards and top-masts to the very utmost; and, even with all +this precaution, it was with difficulty that we rode it out. These +storms are very frequent here, and sometimes violent and troublesome. +The neighbouring mountains, which at these times are always loaded with +vapours, not only increase the force of the wind, but alter its +direction in such a manner, that no two blasts follow each other from +the same quarter; and the nearer the shore, the more their effects are +felt. + +The next day we were visited by a tribe or family, consisting of about +thirty persons, men, women and children, who came from the upper part of +the Sound. I had never seen them before. The name of their chief was +Tomatongeauooranuc, a man of about forty-five years of age, with a +cheerful open countenance; and, indeed, the rest of his tribe were, in +general, the handsomest of the New Zealand race I had ever met with. + +By this time more than two-thirds of the inhabitants, of the Sound had +settled themselves about us. Great numbers of them daily frequented the +ships, and the encampment on shore; but the latter became, by far, the +most favourite place of resort, while our people there were melting some +seal blubber. No Greenlander was ever fonder of train-oil than our +friends here seemed to be. They relished the very skimmings of the +kettle, and dregs of the casks; but a little of the pure stinking oil +was a delicious feast, so eagerly desired, that I suppose it is seldom +enjoyed. + +Having got on board as much hay and grass as we judged sufficient to +serve the cattle till our arrival at Otaheite, and having completed the +wood and water of both ships, on the 23d we struck our tents, and +carried every thing off from the shore, and next morning we weighed +anchor, and stood out of the cove. But the wind not being very fair, and +finding that the tide of ebb would be spent before we could get out of +the Sound, we cast anchor again a little without the island Motuara, to +wait for a more favourable opportunity of putting into the strait. + +While we were unmooring and getting under sail, Tomatongeauooranuc, +Matahouah, and many more of the natives, came to take their leave of us, +or rather to obtain, if they could, some additional presents from us +before we left them. These two chiefs became suitors to me for some +goats and hogs. Accordingly, I gave to Matahouah two goats, a male, and +female with kid; and to Tomatongeauooranuc two pigs, a boar and a sow. +They made me a promise not to kill them; though, I must own, I put no +great faith in this. The animals which Captain Furneaux sent on shore +here, and which soon after fell into the hands of the natives, I was now +told were all dead; but I could get no intelligence about the fate of +those I had left in West Bay, and in Cannibal Cove, when I was here in +the course of my last voyage. However, all the natives whom I conversed +with, agreed, that poultry are now to be met with wild in the woods +behind Ship Cove; and I was afterward informed, by the two youths who +went away with us, that Tiratou, a popular chief amongst them, had a +great many cocks and hens in his separate possession, and one of the +sows. + +On my present arrival at this place, I fully intended to have left not +only goats and hogs, but sheep, and a young bull, with two heifers, if I +could have found either a chief powerful enough to protect and keep +them, or a place where there might be a probability of their being +concealed from those who would ignorantly attempt to destroy them. But +neither the one nor the other presented itself to me. Tiratou was now +absent; and Tringoboohee, whom I had met with during my last voyage, and +who seemed to be a person of much consequence at that time, had been +killed five months ago, with about seventy persons of his tribe; and I +could not learn that there now remained in our neighbourhood any tribe, +whose numbers could secure to them a superiority of power over the rest +of their countrymen. To have given the animals to any of the natives who +possessed no such power, would not have answered the intention; for in a +country like this, where no man's property is secure, they would soon +have fallen a prey to different parties, and been either separated or +killed, but most likely both. This was so evident, from what we had +observed since our arrival, that I had resolved to leave no kind of +animal till Matahouah and the other chief solicited me for the hogs and +goats. As I could spare them, I let them go, to take their chance. I +have at different times, left in New Zealand not less than ten or a +dozen hogs, besides those put on shore by Captain Furneaux. It will be a +little extraordinary, therefore, if this race should not increase and be +preserved here, either in a wild or in a domestic state, or in both. + +We had not been long at anchor near Motuara, before three or four +canoes, filled with natives, came off to us from the S.E. side of the +sound; and a brisk trade was carried on with them for the curiosities of +this place. In one of these canoes was Kahoora, whom I have already +mentioned as the leader of the party who cut off the crew of the +Adventure's boat. This was the third time he had visited us, without +betraying the smallest appearance of fear. I was ashore when he now +arrived, but had got on board just as he was going away. Omai, who had +returned with me, presently pointed him out, and solicited me to shoot +him. Not satisfied with this, he addressed himself to Kahoora, +threatening to be his executioner if ever he presumed to visit us +again. + +The New Zealander paid so little regard to these threats, that he +returned the next morning with his whole family, men, women, and +children, to the number of twenty and upward. Omai was the first who +acquainted me with his being along-side the ship, and desired to know if +he should ask him to come on board. I told him he might; and accordingly +he introduced the chief into the cabin, saying, "There is Kahoora, kill +him!" But, as if he had forgot his former threats, or were afraid that I +should call upon him to perform them, he immediately retired. In a short +time, however, he returned; and seeing the chief unhurt, he expostulated +with me very earnestly, saying, "Why do you not kill him? You tell me, +if a man kills another in England that he is hanged for it. This man has +killed ten, and yet you will not kill him, though many of his countrymen +desire it, and it would be very good." Omai's arguments, though specious +enough, having no weight with me, I desired him to ask the chief why he +had killed Captain Furneaux's people? At this question, Kahoora folded +his arms, hung down his head, and looked like one caught in a trap; and +I firmly believe he expected instant death. But no sooner was he assured +of his safety, than he became cheerful. He did not, however, seem +willing to give me an answer to the question that had been put to him, +till I had, again and again, repeated my promise that he should not be +hurt. Then he ventured to tell us, "That one of his countrymen having +brought a stone hatchet to barter, the man, to whom it was offered, took +it, and would neither return it, nor give any thing for it; on which the +owner of it snatched up the bread as an equivalent, and then the quarrel +began." + +The remainder of Kahoora's account of this unhappy affair, differed very +little from what we had before learnt from the rest of his countrymen. +He mentioned the narrow escape he had during the fray; a musquet being +levelled at him, which he avoided by skulking behind the boat; and +another man, who stood close to him, was shot dead. As soon as the +musquet was discharged, he instantly seized the opportunity to attack Mr +Rowe, who commanded the party, and who defended himself with his hanger, +(with which he wounded Kahoora in the arm,) till he was overpowered by +numbers. + +Mr Burney, who was sent by Captain Furneaux the next day, with an armed +party, to look for his missing people, upon discovering the horrid +proofs of their shocking fate, had fired several vollies amongst the +crowds of natives who still remained assembled on the spot, and were +probably partaking of the detestable banquet. It was natural to suppose +that he had not fired in vain; and that, therefore, some of the +murderers and devourers of our unhappy countrymen had suffered under our +just resentment. Upon enquiry, however, into this matter, not only from +Kahoora, but from others who had opportunities of knowing, it appeared +that our supposition was groundless, and that not one of the shot fired +by Mr Burney's people had taken effect, so as to kill, or even to hurt, +a single person.[143] + +[Footnote 143: Mr Burney was not warranted in firing. It was not +possible for him, at the time, to know whether or not his comrades had +been justly punished for aggressions on the savages. He acted, +therefore, from the impulse of blind revenge. But such a motive, though +natural enough it may be, must, nevertheless, be condemned by every law +recognised among civilized nations. Even his observing these people +engaged in feasting on the victims of their fury, much indeed as it +would necessarily augment his abhorrence, could not be allowed a +sufficient plea for his attacking them; because the principles which +ought to govern the conduct of a member of such a society as he belonged +to, are indiscriminately imperative in their nature, and do not allow +any latitude of dispensation to an individual. The only thing that +warrants the violation of them, is the necessity imposed by a still +higher law,--that of preserving his own existence. But, in the present +instance, it does not appear that he was in any danger.--E.] + +It was evident, that most of the natives we had met with since our +arrival, as they knew I was fully acquainted with the history of the +massacre, expected I should avenge it with the death of Kahoora. And +many of them seemed not only to wish it, but expressed their surprise at +my forbearance. As he could not be ignorant of this, it was a matter of +wonder to me that he put himself so often in my power. When he visited +us while the ships lay in the cove, confiding in the number of his +friends that accompanied him, he might think himself safe; but his two +last visits had been made under such circumstances, that he could no +longer rely upon this. We were then at anchor in the entrance of the +sound, and at some distance from any shore; so that he could not have +any assistance from thence, nor flatter himself he could have the means +of making his escape, had I determined to detain him. And yet, after his +first fears, on being interrogated, were over, he was so far from +entertaining any uneasy sensations, that, on seeing a portrait of one of +his countrymen hanging up in the cabin, he desired to have his own +portrait drawn; and sat till Mr Webber had finished it, without marking +the least impatience. I must confess I admired his courage, and was not +a little pleased to observe the extent of the confidence he put in me; +for he placed his whole safety in the declarations I had uniformly made +to those who solicited his death, That I had always been a friend to +them all, and would continue so, unless they gave me cause to act +otherwise; that as to their inhuman treatment of our people, I should +think no more of it, the transaction having happened long ago, and when +I was not present; but that, if ever they made a second attempt of that +kind, they might rest assured of feeling the weight of my +resentment.[144] + +[Footnote 144: Here Captain Cook acted wisely; and, indeed, throughout +the whole transaction, his conduct merits the highest applause. To +resist the solicitations of envy and revenge, where acquiescence would +have proved so availing to his reputation, and so secure in its display, +implied a conscientious regard to an invisible authority, which must +ever be allowed to constitute a feature of excellence in any man to whom +power is committed. His threatening is not to be considered as any +exception to what is now said in his praise, being, in fact, a +beneficial intimation calculated to secure subjection to a necessary +law. Here it may not be amiss to remark, that savages, little as some +men think of them, are possessed of all the faculties of human nature; +and that conscience, that principle, which, more than reason, +characterizes our species, has as true and as efficient an existence in +their breasts. Now this always respects a superior power, and is the +source of that indescribable dread of some opposing and awful agency, +which never fails to visit the transgressor of its dictates. We must +not, however, ascribe to it every apprehension of danger with which the +mind is occasionally disturbed. There is a sort of fear of evil which +seems common to us with the lower animals, and which cannot therefore be +imagined to have any connection with moral delinquency. This latter, it +is probable, was all that Kahoora experienced in his first interview +with Cook after the massacre; and hence his apprehensions would easily +be subdued by the assurances which that gentleman made him. In fact, +from the facility of his confidence, we may almost certainly infer his +consciousness of innocence, notwithstanding his share in the commission +of the deed. This implies no inconsistency, as every thinking person +will at once perceive; for it must be remembered, that there is no +evidence whatever as to any design or premeditated plan on the part of +the savages. Had his dread been of the former kind, it is scarcely +conceivable that the utmost assurances of indemnity which Cook could +give, would have produced so unaffected a manifestation of ease as is +described.--E.] + +For some time before we arrived at New Zealand, Omai had expressed a +desire to take one of the natives with him to his own country. We had +not been there many days before he had an opportunity of being gratified +in this; for a youth, about seventeen or eighteen years of age, named +Taweiharooa, offered to accompany him, and took up his residence on +board. I paid little attention to this at first, imagining that he would +leave us when we were about to depart, and after he had got what he +could from Omai. At length, finding that he was fixed in his resolution +to go with us, and having learnt that he was the only son of a deceased +chief, and that his mother, still living, was a woman much respected +here, I was apprehensive that Omai had deceived him and his friends, by +giving them hopes and assurances of his being sent back. I therefore +caused it to be made known to them all, that if the young man went away +with us he would never return. But this declaration seemed to make no +sort of impression. The afternoon before we left the cove, Tiratoutou, +his mother, came on board, to receive her last present from Omai. The +same evening she and Taweiharooa parted, with all the marks of tender +affection that might be expected between a parent and a child, who were +never to meet again. But she said she would cry no more; and, sure +enough, she kept her word. For when she returned the next morning, to +take her last farewell of him, all the time she was on board she +remained quite cheerful, and went away wholly unconcerned. + +That Taweiharooa might be sent away in a manner becoming his birth, +another youth was to have gone with him as his servant; and, with this +view, as we supposed, he remained on board till we were about to sail, +when his friends took him ashore. However, his place was supplied next +morning by another, a boy of about nine or ten years of age, named +Kokoa. He was presented to me by his own father, who, I believe, would +have parted with his dog with far less indifference. The very little +clothing the boy had he stript him of, and left him as naked as he was +born. It was to no purpose that I endeavoured to convince these people +of the improbability, or rather of the impossibility, of these youths +ever returning home. Not one, not even their nearest relations, seemed +to trouble themselves about their future fate. Since this was the case, +and I was well satisfied that the boys would be no losers by exchange of +place, I the more readily gave my consent to their going. + +From my own observations, and from the information of Taweiharooa and +others, it appears to me that the New Zealanders must live under +perpetual apprehensions of being destroyed by each other; there being +few of their tribes that have not, as they think, sustained wrongs from +some other tribe, which they are continually upon the watch to revenge. +And, perhaps, the desire of a good meal may be no small incitement. I am +told that many years sometimes elapse before a favourable opportunity +happens, and that the son never loses sight of an injury that has been +done to his father.[145] Their method of executing their horrible +designs, is by stealing upon the adverse party in the night; and if they +find them unguarded, (which, however, I believe, is very seldom the +case,) they kill every one indiscriminately; not even sparing the women +and children. When the massacre is completed, they either feast and +gorge themselves on the spot, or carry off as many of the dead bodies as +they can, and devour them at home, with acts of brutality too shocking +to be described. If they are discovered before they can execute their +bloody purpose, they generally steal off again, and sometimes are +pursued and attacked by the other party in their turn. To give quarter, +or to take prisoners, makes no part of their military law; so that the +vanquished can only save their lives by flight. This perpetual state of +war, and destructive method of conducting it, operates so strongly in +producing habitual circumspection, that one hardly ever finds a New +Zealander off his guard either by night or by day. Indeed, no other man +can have such powerful motives to be vigilant, as the preservation both +of body and of soul depends upon it; for, according to their system of +belief, the soul of the man whose flesh is devoured by the enemy, is +doomed to a perpetual fire, while the soul of the man whose body has +been rescued from those who killed him, as well as the souls of all who +die a natural death, ascend to the habitations of the gods. I asked, +Whether they eat the flesh of such of their friends as had been killed +in war, but whose bodies were saved from falling into the enemy's hands? +They seemed surprised at the question, which they answered in the +negative, expressing some abhorrence at the very idea. Their common +method of disposing of their dead, is by depositing their bodies in the +earth; but if they have more of their slaughtered enemies than they can +eat, they throw them into the sea. + +[Footnote 145: Every reader almost will here recollect, that a similar +disposition to perpetuate grievances has been found to operate in all +barbarous nations, and indeed amongst many people who lay great claims +to refinement in civilization. It will be found, in truth, too strong an +effort for most men's charity, to regard with perfect impartiality +either a person or a nation whom their fathers had pointed out as an +enemy. On the great scale of the world, we see it is the nearly +inevitable consequence of war to generate malicious feelings. In +addition, then, to some contrariety of interest, to some real or +imaginary aggression, or even a bare possibility of being injured, it is +almost enough, at any time, for the commencement of a new struggle +betwixt rival nations, that one, or both of them, remember they were +formerly at variance. Nor is it at all requisite for due rancour in such +cases, that politicians explain the grounds of the quarrel, and +aggravate the enormous injustice of the opponent, or prove his readiness +to do mischief. The animosity is already conceived, and waits only the +removal of the gauze-like partition, to be able, with greater certainty +of effect, to guide its instruments of destruction. "Hear," says Mr +Ferguson, in his essay on this subject, "hear the peasants on different +sides of the Alps, and the Pyrenees, the Rhyne, or the British channel, +give vent to their prejudices and national passions; it is among them +that we find the materials of war and dissension laid without the +direction of government, and sparks ready to kindle into a flame, which +the statesman is frequently disposed to extinguish. The fire will not +always catch where his reasons of state would direct, nor stop where the +concurrence of interest has produced an alliance. 'My father,' said a +Spanish peasant, 'would rise from his grave if he could foresee a war +with France.' What interest had he, or the bones of his father, in the +quarrels of princes?" The answer might easily be given by another +anecdote. During a parley betwixt the leaders of two rival Highland +clans, which had for its object the peaceable termination of their +differences, a subordinate officer, not relishing the unusual homily, +went up to his chief in a rage, and upbraided him for delaying the +combat. "Don't you see," says he, brandishing his claymore, "that the +sun is almost set?--we'll no hae half time to kill thae rascals!" The +peasant naturally enough wished that his father might rise again to take +his share in the delightful work of slaughter. Pray, what childish +scruples withhold persons of such keen appetites from occasionally +taking a belly-full of their enemy's flesh?--E.] + +They have no such thing as _morais_, or other places of public worship; +nor do they ever assemble together with this view. But they have +priests, who alone address the gods in prayer for the prosperity of +their temporal affairs, such as an enterprise against a hostile tribe, a +fishing party, or the like. + +Whatever the principles of their religion may be, of which we remain +very ignorant, its instructions are very strongly inculcated into them +from their very infancy. Of this I saw a remarkable instance, in the +youth who was first destined to accompany Taweiharooa. He refrained from +eating the greatest part of the day, on account of his hair being cut, +though every method was tried to induce him to break his resolution, and +he was tempted with the offer of such victuals as he was known to esteem +the most. He said, if he eat any thing that day the _Eatooa_ would kill +him. However, toward evening, the cravings of nature got the better of +the precepts of his religion, and he ate, though but sparingly. I had +often conjectured, before this, that they had some superstitious notions +about their hair, having frequently observed quantities of it tied to +the branches of trees near some of their habitations; but what these +notions are I could never learn. + +Notwithstanding the divided and hostile state in which the New +Zealanders live, travelling strangers, who come with no ill design, are +well received and entertained during their stay; which, however, it is +expected will be no longer than is requisite to transact the business +they come upon. Thus it is that a trade for _poenammoo_, or green talc, +is carried on throughout the whole northern island. For they tell us, +that there is none of this stone to be found but at a place which bears +its name, somewhere about the head of Queen Charlotte's Sound, and not +above one or two days journey, at most, from the station of our ships. I +regretted much that I could not spare time sufficient for paying a visit +to the place; as we were told a hundred fabulous stories about this +stone, not one of which carried with it the least probability of truth, +though some of their most sensible men would have us believe them. One +of these stories is, that this stone is originally a fish, which they +strike with a gig in the water, tie a rope to it, and drag it to the +shore, to which they fasten it, and it afterwards becomes stone. As they +all agree that it is fished out of a large lake, or collection of +waters, the most probable conjecture is, that it is brought from the +mountains, and deposited in the water by the torrents. This lake is +called by the natives Tavai Poenammoo, that is, the Water of Green Talc; +and it is only the adjoining part of the country, and not the whole +southern island of New Zealand, that is known to them by the name which +hath been given to it on my chart. + +Polygamy is allowed amongst these people; and it is not uncommon for a +man to have two or three wives. The women are marriageable at a very +early age; and it should seem, that one who is unmarried, is but in a +forlorn state. She can with difficulty get a subsistence; at least she +is, in a great measure, without a protector, though in constant want of +a powerful one. + +The New Zealanders seem to be a people perfectly satisfied with the +little knowledge they are masters of, without attempting, in the least, +to improve it. Nor are they remarkably curious, either in their +observations or their enquiries. New objects do not strike them with +such a degree of surprise as one would naturally expect; nor do they +even fix their attention for a moment. Omai, indeed, who was a great +favourite with them, would sometimes attract a circle about him; but +they seemed to listen to his speeches like persons who neither +understood, nor wished to understand, what they heard. + +One day, on our enquiring of Taweiharooa, how many ships, such as ours, +had ever arrived in Queen Charlotte's Sound, or in any part of its +neighbourhood? he began with giving an account of one absolutely unknown +to us. This, he said, had put into a port on the N.W. coast of +Teerawitte, but a very few years before I arrived in the Sound in the +Endeavour, which the New Zealanders distinguish by calling it Tupia's +ship. At first, I thought he might have been mistaken as to the time and +place; and that the ship in question might be either Monsieur +Surville's, who is said to have touched upon the N.E. coast of +Eaheinomauwe, the same year I was there in the Endeavour; or else +Monsieur Marion du Fresne's, who was in the Bay of Islands, on the same +coast, a few years after. But he assured us that he was not mistaken, +either as to the time, or as to the place of this ship's arrival, and +that it was well known to every body about Queen Charlotte's Sound and +Teerawitte. He said, that the captain of her, during his stay here, +cohabited with a woman of the country; and that she had a son by him +still living, about the age of Kokoa, who, though not born then, seemed +to be equally well acquainted with the story. We were also informed by +Taweiharooa, that this ship first introduced the venereal disease +amongst the New Zealanders. I wish that subsequent visitors from Europe +may not have their share of guilt in leaving so dreadful a remembrance +of them amongst this unhappy race. The disorder now is but too common +here, though they do not seem to regard it, saying, that its effects are +not near so pernicious at present as they were at its first appearance. +The only method, as far as I ever heard, that they make use of as a +remedy, is by giving the patient the use of a sort of hot bath, which +they produce by the steam of certain green plants laid over hot stones. + +I regretted much that we did not hear of this ship while we were in the +sound; as, by means of Omai, we might have had full and correct +information about her from eyewitnesses. For Taweiharooa's account was +only from what he had been told, and therefore liable to many mistakes. +I have not the least doubt, however, that his testimony may so far be +depended upon, as to induce us to believe that a ship really had been at +Teerawitte prior to my arrival in the Endeavour, as it corresponds with +what I had formerly heard. For in the latter end of 1773, the second +time I visited New Zealand, during my late voyage, when we were +continually making enquiries about the Adventure, after our separation, +some of the natives informed us of a ship's having been in a port on the +coast of Teerawitte. But, at this time, we thought we must have +misunderstood them, and took no notice of the intelligence. + +The arrival of this unknown ship has been marked by the New Zealanders +with more causes of remembrance than the unhappy one just mentioned. +Taweiharooa told us their country was indebted to her people for the +present of an animal, which they left behind them. But as he had not +seen it himself, no sort of judgment could be formed from his +description of what kind it was. + +We had another piece of intelligence from him, more correctly given, +though not confirmed by our own observations, that there are snakes and +lizards there of an enormous size. He described the latter as being +eight feet in length, and as big round as a man's body. He said they +sometimes seize and devour men; that they burrow in the ground; and that +they are killed by making fires at the mouths of the holes. We could not +be mistaken as to the animal; for, with his own hand, he drew a very +good representation of a lizard on a piece of paper, as also of a snake, +in order to shew what he meant.[146] + +[Footnote 146: There can be little doubt that the animal here called a +lizard is an alligator.--E.] + +Though much has been said, in the narratives of my two former voyages, +about this country and its inhabitants, Mr Anderson's remarks, as +serving either to confirm or to correct our former accounts, may not be +superfluous. He had been three times with me to Queen Charlotte's Sound +during my last voyage; and, after this fourth visit, what he thought +proper to record, may be considered as the result of sufficient +observation. The reader will find it in the next section; and I have +nothing farther to add, before I quit New Zealand, but to give some +account of the astronomical and nautical observations made during our +stay there. + + The longitude of the observatory in Ship + Cove, by a mean of 103 sets of observations, + each set consisting of six or + more observed distances, was 174 deg. 25' 15" E. + + By the time-keeper, at Greenwich rate, it + was 175 26 30 + + By ditto, at the Cape rate, it was 174 56 12 + + Variation of the compass, being the mean + of six needles, observed on board the + ship 12 40 0 E. + + By the same needles on shore, it was 13 53 0 + + The dip of the south end, observed on + shore was 63 42 0 + +By a mean of the results of eleven days observations, the time-keeper +was too slow for mean time on February 22, at noon, by 11h 50' 37",396; +and she was found to be losing on mean time at the rate of 2",913 per +day. From this rate the longitude will be computed, till some other +opportunity offers to ascertain her rate anew. The astronomical clock, +with the same length of pendulum as at Greenwich, was found to be losing +on sidereal time 40",239 per day. + +It will not be amiss to mention, that the longitude, by lunar +observations, as above, differs only 6' 45" from what Mr Wales made it +during my last voyage; his being so much more to the W. or 174 deg. 18' 30". + +The latitude of Ship Cove is 41 deg. 6' 0", as found by Mr Wales. + + +SECTION VIII. + +_Mr Anderson's Remarks on the Country near Queen Charlotte's Sound.--The +Soil.--Climate.--Weather.--Winds.--Trees.--Plants.--Birds.--Fish.--Other +Animals.--Of the Inhabitants.--Description of their Persons.--Their +Dress.--Ornaments.--Habitations.--Boats.--Food and Cookery,--Arts.--Weapons +--Cruelty to Prisoners.--Various Customs.--Specimen of their Language._ + + +The land every where about Queen Charlotte's Sound is uncommonly +mountainous, rising immediately from the sea into large hills, with +blunted tops. At considerable distances are valleys, or rather +impressions on the sides of the hills, which are not deep, each +terminating toward the sea in a small cove, with a pebbly or sandy +beach; behind which are small flats, where the natives generally build +their huts, at the same time hauling their canoes upon the beaches. This +situation is the more convenient, as in every cove a brook of very fine +water (in which are some small trout) empties itself into the sea. + +The bases of these mountains, at least toward the shore, are constituted +of a brittle, yellowish sand-stone, which acquires a bluish cast where +the sea washes it. It runs, at some places, in horizontal, and, at +other-places, in oblique strata, being frequently divided, at small +distances, by thin veins of coarse quartz, which commonly follow the +direction of the other, though they sometimes intersect it. The mould, +or soil, which covers this, is also of a yellowish cast, not unlike +marl; and is commonly from a foot to two, or more, in thickness. + +The quality of this soil is best indicated by the luxuriant growth of +its productions. For the hills (except a few toward the sea, which are +covered with smaller bushes) are one continued forest of lofty trees, +flourishing with a vigour almost superior to anything that imagination +can conceive, and affording an august prospect to those who are +delighted with the grand and beautiful works of nature. + +The agreeable temperature of the climate, no doubt, contributes much to +this uncommon strength in vegetation. For, at this time, though +answering to our month of August, the weather was never disagreeably +warm, nor did it raise the thermometer higher than 60 deg.. The winter, +also, seems equally mild with respect to cold; for in June, 1773, which +corresponds to our December, the mercury never fell lower than 48 deg.; and +the trees, at that time, retained their verdure, as if in the summer +season; so that, I believe, their foliage is never shed, till pushed off +by the succeeding leaves in spring. + +The weather, in general, is good, but sometimes windy, with heavy rain, +which, however, never lasts above a day; nor does it appear that it is +ever excessive. For there are no marks of torrents rushing down the +hills, as in many countries; and the brooks, if we may judge from their +channels, seem never to be greatly increased. I have observed, in the +four different times of my being here, that the winds from the +south-eastward are commonly moderate, but attended with cloudy weather, +or rain. The S.W. winds blow very strong, and are also attended with +rain, but they seldom last long. The N.W. winds are the most prevailing; +and though often pretty strong, are almost constantly connected with +fine weather. In short, the only obstacle to this being one of the +finest countries upon earth, is its great hillyness; which, allowing the +woods to be cleared away, would leave it less proper for pasturage than +flat land, and still more improper for cultivation, which could never be +effected here by the plough. + +The large trees which cover the hills are chiefly of two sorts. One of +them, of the size of our largest firs, grows much after their manner, +but the leaves, and small berries on their points, are much liker the +yew. It was this which supplied the place of spruce in making beer; +which we did with a strong decoction of its leaves, fermented with +treacle or sugar. And this liquor, when well prepared, was acknowledged +to be little inferior to the American spruce beer, by those who had +experience of both. The other sort of tree is not unlike a maple, and +grows often to a great size; but it only served for fuel, as the wood, +both of this and of the preceding, was found to be rather too heavy for +masts, yards, and other similar repairs. + +There is a greater variety of trees on the small flat spots behind the +beaches. Amongst these are two that bear a kind of plum of the size of +prunes, the one yellow, called _karraca_, and the other black, called +_maituo_, but neither of them of a very agreeable taste, though the +natives eat both, and our people did the same. Those of the first sort +grow on small trees, always facing the sea; but the others belong to +larger trees that stand farther within the wood, and which we frequently +cut down for fuel. + +A species of _philadelphus_ grows on the eminences which jut out into +the sea; and also a tree bearing flowers almost like myrtle, with +roundish spotted leaves of a disagreeable smell. We drank the leaves of +the _philadelphus_ as tea, and found that they had a pleasant taste and +smell, and might make an excellent substitute for the oriental sort. + +Among other plants that were useful to us, may be reckoned wild celery, +which grows plentifully in almost every cove, especially if the natives +have ever resided there before; and one that we used to call +scurvy-grass, though entirely different from the plant to which we give +that name. This, however, is far preferable to ours for common use, and +may be known by its jagged leaves, and small clusters of white flowers +on the top. Both sorts were boiled every morning, with wheat ground in a +mill, and with portable soup, for the people's breakfast, and also +amongst their pease-soup for dinner. Sometimes they were used as sallad, +or dressed as greens. In all which ways they are good; and, together +with the fish, with which we were constantly supplied, they formed a +sort of refreshment, perhaps little inferior to what is to be met with +in places most noted by navigators for plentiful supplies of animal and +vegetable food. + +Amongst the known kinds of plants met with here, are common and rough +bindweed; night-shade and nettles, both which grow to the size of small +trees; a shrubby speedwell, found near all the beaches, sow-thistles, +virgin's bower, vanelloe, French willow, euphorbia, and crane's-bill; +also cudweed, rushes, bull-rushes, flax, all-heal, American nightshade, +knot-grass, brambles, eye-bright, and groundsel; but the species of each +are different from any we have in Europe. There is also polypody, +spleenwort, and about twenty other different sort of ferns, entirely +peculiar to the place, with several sorts of mosses, either rare, or +produced only here; besides a great number of other plants, whose uses +are not yet known, and subjects fit only for botanical books. + +Of these, however, there is one which deserves particular notice here, +as the natives make their garments of it, and it produces a fine silky +flax, superior in appearance to any thing we have, and probably, at +least, as strong. It grows every where near the sea, and in some places +a considerable way up the hills, in bunches or tufts, with sedge-like +leaves, bearing, on a long stalk, yellowish flowers, which are succeeded +by a long roundish pod, filled with very thin shining black seeds. A +species of long pepper is found in great plenty, but it has little of +the aromatic flavour that makes spices valuable; and a tree, much like a +palm at a distance, is pretty frequent in the woods, though the deceit +appears as you come near it. It is remarkable, that as the greatest part +of the trees and plants had at this time lost their flowers, we +perceived they were generally of the berry-bearing kind; of which, and +other seeds, I brought away about thirty different sorts. Of these, one +in particular, which bears a red berry, is much like the supple-jack, +and grows about the trees, stretching from one to another, in such a +manner as to render the woods almost wholly impassable. + +The birds, of which there is a tolerable stock, as well as the vegetable +productions, are almost entirely peculiar to the place. And though it be +difficult to follow them, on account of the quantity of underwood, and +the climbing plants, that render travelling, for pleasure alone, +uncommonly fatiguing, yet a person, by remaining in one place, may shoot +as many in a day as would serve six or eight others. The principal sorts +are large brown parrots, with white or greyish heads; green parroquets, +with red foreheads; large wood pigeons, brown above, with white bellies, +the rest green, and the bill and feet red; two sorts of cuckoos, one as +large as our common sort, of a brown colour, variegated with black, the +other not larger than a sparrow, of a splendid green cast above, and +elegantly varied with waves of golden, green, brown, and white colours +below. Both these are scarce, but several others are in greater plenty; +one of which, of a black colour, with a greenish cast, is remarkable for +having a tuft of white curled feathers hanging under the throat, and was +called the _poy_ bird[147] by our people. Another sort, rather smaller, +is black, with a brown back and wings, and two small gills under the +root of the bill. This we called the small wattle bird, to distinguish +it from another, which we called the large one, of the size of a common +pigeon, with two large yellow and purple membranes also at the root of +the bill. It is black, or rather blue, and has no resemblance of the +other but in name, for the bill is thick, short, and crooked, and has +all together an uncommon appearance. A gross-beak, about the size of a +thrush, of a brown colour, with a reddish tail, is frequent; as is also +a small greenish bird, which is almost the only musical one here, but is +sufficient by itself to fill the woods with a melody that is not only +sweet, but so varied, that one would imagine he was surrounded by a +hundred different sorts of birds when the little warbler is near. From +these circumstances we named it the mocking bird. There are likewise +three or four sorts of smaller birds; one of which, in figure and +lameness, exactly resembles our robin, but is black where that is brown, +and white where that is red. Another differs but little from this, +except in being smaller; and a third sort has a long tail, which it +expands as a fan on coming near, and makes a chirping noise when it +perches. King-fishers are seen, though rare, and are about the size of +our English ones, but with an inferior plumage. + +[Footnote 147: It had this name from its tuft of feathers, resembling +the white flowers used as ornaments in the ears at Otaheite, and called +there Poowa.--D.] + +About the rocks are seen black sea-pies with red bills; and crested +shags of a leaden colour, with small black spots on the wings and +shoulders, and the rest of the upper part of a velvet black tinged with +green. We frequently shot both these, and also a more common sort of +shags, black above and white underneath, that build their nests upon +trees, on which sometimes a dozen or more sit at once. There are also, +about the shore, a few sea-gulls, some blue herons, and sometimes, +though very rarely, wild-ducks, a small sandy-coloured plover, and some +sand-larks. And small penguins, black above, with a white belly, as well +as numbers of little black divers, swim often about the sound. We +likewise killed two or three rails, of a brown or yellowish colour, +variegated with black, which feed about the small brooks, and are nearly +as large as a common fowl. No other sort of game was seen, except a +single snipe, which was shot, and differs but little from that of +Europe. + +The principal fish we caught by the seine were mullets and elephant +fish, with a few soles and flounders; but those that the natives mostly +supplied us with were a sort of sea-bream, of a silver colour, with a +black spot on the neck, large conger eels, and a fish in shape much like +the bream, but so large as to weigh five, six, or seven pounds. It is +blackish with thick lips, and called _Mogge_ by the natives. With hook +and line we caught chiefly a blackish fish of the size of a haddock, +called cole-fish by the seamen, but differing much from that known by +the same name in Europe; and another of the same size, of a reddish +colour, with a little beard, which we called night-walkers, from the +greatest number being caught in the night. Sometimes we got a sort of +small salmon, gurnards, skate, and nurses; and the natives now and then +brought hake, paracutas, a small sort of mackerel, parrot-fish, and +leather-jackets; besides another fish, which is very rare, shaped almost +like a dolphin, of a black colour, with strong bony jaws, and the back +fin, as well as those opposite to it, much lengthened at the end. All +these sorts, except the last, which we did not try, are excellent to +eat; but the _Mogge_, small salmon, and cole-fish, are superior to the +rest. + +The rocks are abundantly furnished with great quantities of excellent +muscles; one sort of which, that is not very common, measures above a +foot in length. There are also cockles buried in the sand of the small +beaches; and in some places oysters, which, though very small, are well +tasted. Of other shell-fish there are ten or twelve sorts, such as +periwinkles, wilks, limpets, and some very beautiful sea-ears, also +another sort which stick to the weeds; with some other things, as +sea-eggs, star-fish, &c. several of which are peculiar to the place. The +natives likewise sometimes brought us very fine cray-fish, equal to our +largest lobsters, and cuttle-fish, which they eat themselves. + +Insects are very rare. Of these we only saw two sorts of dragon-flies, +some butterflies, small grasshoppers, several sorts of spiders, some +small black ants, and vast numbers of scorpion-flies, with whose +chirping the woods resound. The only noxious one is the sand-fly, very +numerous here, and almost as troublesome as the musquitoe; for we found +no reptile here, except two or three sorts of small harmless +lizards.[148] + +[Footnote 148: In a separate memorandum-book, Mr Anderson mentions the +monstrous animal of the lizard kind, described by the two boys after +they left the island.--D.] + +It is remarkable, that, in this extensive land, there should not even be +the traces of any quadruped, only excepting a few rats, and a sort of +fox-dog, which is a domestic animal with the natives. + +Neither is there any mineral worth notice, but a green, jasper or +serpent-stone, of which the New Zealanders make their tools and +ornaments. This is esteemed a precious article by them; and they have +some superstitious notions about the method of its generation, which we +could not perfectly understand. It is plain, however, that wherever it +may be found, (which, they say, is in the channel of a large river far +to the southward,) it is disposed in the earth, in thin layers, or +perhaps in detached pieces, like our flints; for the edges of those +pieces, which have not been cut, are covered with a whitish crust like +these. A piece of this sort was purchased, about eighteen inches long, a +foot broad, and near two inches thick, which yet seemed to be only the +fragment of a larger piece. + +The natives do not exceed the common stature of Europeans; and, in +general, are not so well made, especially about the limbs. This is, +perhaps, the effect of sitting, for the most part, on their hams, and of +being confined, by the hilly disposition of the country, from using that +sort of exercise which contributes to render the body straight and +well-proportioned. There are, however, several exceptions to this; and +some are remarkable for their large bones and muscles, but few that I +have seen are corpulent. + +Their colour is of different casts, from a pretty deep black to a +yellowish or olive tinge, and their features also are various, some +resembling Europeans. But, in general, their faces are round, with their +lips full, and also their noses toward the point; though the first are +not uncommonly thick, nor the last flat. I do not, however, recollect to +have seen an instance of the true aquiline nose amongst them. Their +teeth are commonly broad, white, and well set; and their eyes large, +with a very free motion, which seems the effect of habit. Their hair is +black, straight, and strong, commonly cut short on the hind part, with +the rest tied on the crown of the head: but some have it of a curling +disposition, or of a brown colour. In the young, the countenance is +generally free or open; but in many of the men it has a serious cast, +and sometimes a sullenness or reserve, especially if they are strangers. +The women are, in general, smaller than the men; but have few peculiar +graces, either in form or features, to distinguish them. + +The dress of both sexes is alike; and consists of an oblong garment +about five feet long, and four broad, made from the silky flax already +mentioned. This seems to be their most material and complex manufacture, +which is executed by knotting; and their work is often ornamented with +pieces of dog-skin, or chequered at the corners. They bring two corners +of this garment over the shoulders, and fasten it on the breast with the +other part, which covers the body; and about the belly, it is again tied +with a girdle made of mat. Sometimes they cover it with large feathers +of birds (which seem to be wrought into the piece of cloth when it is +made), or with dog-skin; and that alone we have seen worn as a covering. +Over this garment many of them wear mats, which reach from the shoulders +to near the heels. But the most common outer-covering is a quantity of +the above sedgy plant, badly dressed, which they fasten on a string to +a considerable length, and, throwing it about the shoulders, let it fall +down on all sides, as far as the middle of the thighs. When they sit +down with this upon them, either in their boats, or upon the shore, it +would be difficult to distinguish them from large grey stones, if their +black heads, projecting beyond their coverings, did not engage one to a +stricter examination. + +By way of ornament, they fix in their heads feathers, or combs of bone, +or wood, adorned with pearl shell, or the thin inner skin of some leaf. +And in the ears, both of men and women, which are pierced, or rather +slit, are hung small pieces of jasper, bits of cloth, or beads when they +can get them. A few also have the _septum_ of the nose bored in its +lower part; but no ornament was worn there that we saw; though one man +passed a twig through it, to shew us that it was sometimes used for that +purpose. They wear long beards, but are fond of having them shaved. + +Some are punctured or stained in the face with curious spiral and other +figures, of a black or deep blue colour; but it is doubtful whether this +be ornamental, or intended as a mark of particular distinction; and the +women, who are marked so, have the puncture only on their lips, or a +small spot on their chins. Both sexes often besmear their faces and +heads with a red paint, which seems to be a martial ochre mixed with +grease; and the women sometimes wear necklaces of shark's teeth, or +bunches of long beads, which seem to be made of the leg-bones of small +birds, or a particular shell. A few also have small triangular aprons +adorned with the feathers of parrots, or bits of pearl shells, furnished +with a double or treble set of cords to fasten them, about the waist. I +have sometimes seen caps or bonnets made of the feathers of birds, which +may be reckoned as ornaments; for it is not their custom to wear any +covering on their heads. + +They live in the small coves formerly described, in companies of forty +or fifty, or more; and sometimes in single families, building their huts +contiguous to each other; which, in general, are miserable +lodging-places. The best I ever saw was about thirty feet long, fifteen +broad, and six high, built exactly in the manner of one of our country +barns. The inside was both strong and regularly made of supporters at +the sides, alternately large and small, well fastened by means of +withes, and painted red and black. The ridge pole was strong; and the +large bull-rushes, which composed the inner part of the thatching, were +laid with great exactness parallel to each other. At one end was a small +square hole, which served as a door to creep in at; and near, another +much smaller, seemingly for letting out the smoke, as no other vent for +it could be seen. This, however, ought to be considered as one of the +best, and the residence of some principal person; for the greatest part +of them are not half the above size, and seldom exceed four feet in +height; being, besides, indifferently built, though proof against wind +and rain. + +No other furniture is to be seen in them, than a few small baskets or +bags, in which they put their fishing-hooks, and other trifles; and they +sit down in the middle round a small fire, where they also probably +sleep, without any other covering than what they wear in the day, or +perhaps without that; as such confined places must be very warm, though +inhabited but by a few persons. + +They live chiefly by fishing, making use either of nets of different +kinds, or of wooden fish-hooks pointed with bone; but so oddly made, +that a stranger is at a loss to know how they can answer such a purpose. +It also appears, that they remove their habitations from one place to +another when the fish grow scarce, or for some other reason; for we +found houses now built in several parts, where there had been none when +we were here during our last voyage, and even these have been already +deserted. + +Their boats are well built, of planks raised upon each other, and +fastened with strong withes, which also bind a long narrow piece on the +outside of the seams to prevent their leaking. Some are fifty feet long, +and so broad as to be able to sail without an outrigger; but the smaller +sort commonly have one; and they often fasten two together by rafters, +which we then call a double canoe. They carry from five to thirty men or +more; and have often a large head ingeniously carved, and painted with a +figure at the point, which seems intended to represent a man, with his +features distorted by rage. Their paddles are about four or five feet +long, narrow, and pointed; with which, when they keep time, the boat is +pushed along pretty swiftly. Their sail, which is seldom used, is made +of a mat of a triangular shape, having the broadest part above. + +The only method of dressing their fish, is by roasting, or rather +baking; for they are entirely ignorant of the art of boiling. In the +same manner they dress the root, and part of the stalk, of the large +fern-tree, in a great hole dug for that purpose, which serves as an +oven. After which they split it, and find, within, a fine gelatinous +substance, like boiled sago powder, but firmer. They also use another +smaller fern root, which seems to be their substitute for bread, as it +is dried and carried about with them, together with dried fish in great +quantities, when they remove their families, or go far from home. This +they beat with a stick till it becomes pretty soft, when they chew it +sufficiently, and spit out the hard fibrous part, the other having a +sweetish mealy taste, not at all disagreeable. + +When they dare not venture to sea, or perhaps from choice, they supply +the place of other fish with muscles and sea-ears; great quantities of +the shells of which lie in heaps near their houses. And they sometimes, +though rarely, find means to kill rails, penguins, and shags, which help +to vary their diet They also breed considerable numbers of the dogs, +mentioned before, for food; but these cannot be considered as a +principal article of diet. From whence we we may conclude, that, as +there is not the least sign of cultivation of land, they depend +principally for their subsistence on the sea, which, indeed, is very +bountiful in its supply. + +Their method of feeding corresponds with the nastiness of their persons, +which often smell disagreeably from the quantity of grease about them, +and their clothes never being washed. We have seen them eat the vermin, +with which their heads are sufficiently stocked. + +They also used to devour, with the greatest eagerness, large quantities +of stinking train oil, and blubber of seals, which we were melting at +the tent, and had kept near two months; and, on board the ships, they +were not satisfied with emptying the lamps, but actually swallowed the +cotton, and fragrant wick, with equal voracity. It is worthy of notice, +that though the inhabitants of Van Diemen's Land appear to have but a +scanty subsistence, they would not even taste our bread, though they saw +us eat it; whereas these people devoured it greedily, when both mouldy +and rotten. But this must not be imputed to any defect in their +sensations; for I have observed them throw away things which we eat, +with evident disgust, after only smelling to them. + +They shew as much ingenuity, both in invention and execution, as any +uncivilized nations under similar circumstances. For, without the use of +any metal tools, they make every thing by which they procure their +subsistence, clothing, and warlike weapons, with a degree of neatness, +strength, and convenience for accomplishing their several purposes. +Their chief mechanical tool is formed exactly after the manner of our +adzes; and is made, as are also the chisel and goudge, of the green +serpent-stone or jasper, already mentioned; though sometimes they are +composed of a black, smooth, and very solid stone. But their masterpiece +seems to be carving, which is found upon the most trifling things; and, +in particular, the heads of their canoes are sometimes ornamented with +it in such a manner, as not only shews much design, but is also an +example of their great labour and patience in execution. Their cordage +for fishing-lines is equal, in strength and evenness, to that made by +us; and their nets not at all inferior. But what must cost them more +labour than any other article, is the making the tools we have +mentioned; for the stone is exceedingly hard, and the only method of +fashioning it, we can guess at, is by rubbing one stone upon another, +which can have but a slow effect. Their substitute for a knife is a +shell, a bit of flint, or jasper. And, as an auger to bore holes, they +fix a shark's tooth in the end of a small piece of wood. It is true, +they have a small saw made of some jagged fishes teeth, fixed on the +convex edge of a piece of wood nicely carved. But this, they say, is +only used to cut up the bodies of their enemies whom they kill in +battle. + +No people can have a quicker sense of an injury done to them, and none +are more ready to resent it. But, at the same time, they will take an +opportunity of being insolent when they think there is no danger of +punishment; which is so contrary to the spirit of genuine bravery, that, +perhaps, their eagerness to resent injuries is to be looked upon rather +as an effect of a furious disposition than of great courage. They also +appear to be of a suspicious or mistrustful temper (which, however, may +rather be acquired than natural), for strangers never came to our ships +immediately, but lay in their boats at a small distance, either to +observe our motions, or consult whether or no they should risk their +safety with us. To this they join a great degree of dishonesty; for they +steal every thing they can lay their hands on, if there be the least +hope of not being detected; and, in trading, I have little doubt but +they would take advantages, if they thought it could be done with +safety; as they not only refuse to trust a thing in one's hand for +examination, but exult if they think they have tricked you in the +bargain. + +Such conduct, however, is, in some measure, to be expected where there +appears to be but little subordination, and consequently few, if any, +laws, to punish transgressions. For no man's authority seems to extend +farther than his own family; and when, at any time, they join for mutual +defence, or any other purpose, those amongst them who are eminent for +courage or prudence, are directors. How their private quarrels are +terminated is uncertain; but, in the few we saw, which were of little +consequence, the parties concerned were clamorous and disorderly. + +Their public contentions are frequent, or rather perpetual; for it +appears, from their number of weapons, and dexterity in using them, that +war is their principal profession. These weapons are spears, _patoos_ +and halberts, or sometimes stones. The first are made of hard wood +pointed, of different lengths, from five, to twenty, or even thirty feet +long. The short ones are used for throwing as darts. The _patoo_ or +_emeete_ is of an elliptical shape, about eighteen inches long, with a +handle made of wood, stone, the bone of some sea animal, or green +jasper, and seems to be their principal dependence in battle. The +halbert, or long club, is about five or six feet long, tapering at one +end with a carved head, and at the other, broad or flat, with sharp +edges. + +Before they begin the onset, they join in a war-song, to which they all +keep the exactest time, and soon raise their passion to a degree of +frantic fury, attended with the most horrid distortion of their eyes, +mouths, and tongues, to strike terror into their enemies; which, to +those who have not been accustomed to such a practice, makes them appear +more like demons than men, and would almost chill the boldest with fear. +To this succeeds a circumstance, almost foretold in their fierce +demeanour, horrid, cruel, and disgraceful to human nature; which is, +cutting in pieces, even before being perfectly dead, the bodies of their +enemies, and, after dressing them on a fire, devouring the flesh, not +only without reluctance, but with peculiar satisfaction. + +One might be apt to suppose, that people, capable of such excess of +cruelty, must be destitute of every human feeling, even amongst their +own party; and yet we find them lamenting the loss of their friends, +with a violence of expression which argues the most tender remembrance +of them. For both men and women, upon the death of those connected with +them, whether in battle or otherwise, bewail them with the most doleful +cries; at the same time cutting their foreheads and cheeks, with shells +or pieces of flint, in large gashes, until the blood flows plentifully +and mixes with their tears. They also carve pieces of their green stone, +rudely shaped, as human figures, which they ornament with bright eyes of +pearl-shell, and hang them about their necks, as memorials of those whom +they held most dear; and their affections of this kind are so strong, +that they even perform the ceremony of cutting, and lamenting for joy, +at the return of any of their friends, who have been absent but for a +short time. + +The children are initiated, at a very early age, into all the practices, +good or bad, of their fathers; so that you find a boy or girl, nine or +ten years old, able to perform all the motions, and to imitate the +frightful gestures, by which the more aged use to inspire their enemies +with terror, keeping the strictest time in their song. They likewise +sing, with some degree of melody, the traditions of their forefathers, +their actions in war, and other indifferent subjects; of all which they +are immoderately fond, and spend much of their time, in these +amusements, and in playing on a sort of flute. + +Their language is far from being harsh or disagreeable, though the +pronunciation is frequently guttural; and whatever qualities are +requisite in any other language to make it musical, certainly obtain to +a considerable degree here, if we may judge from the melody of some +sorts of their songs. It is also sufficiently comprehensive, though, in +many respects, deficient, if compared with our European languages, which +owe their perfection to long improvement. But a small specimen is here +subjoined, from which some judgment may be formed. I collected a great +many of their words, both now and in the course of our former voyage; +and being equally attentive, in my enquiries, about the languages of the +other islands throughout the South Sea, I have the amplest proof of +their wonderful agreement, or rather identity. This general observation +has, indeed, been already made in the accounts of the former voyages. I +shall be enabled, however, to confirm and strengthen it, by a fresh +list of words, selected from a large vocabulary in my possession; and by +placing, in the opposite column, the corresponding words as used at +Otaheite, the curious reader will, at one view, be furnished with +sufficient materials for judging by what subordinate changes the +difference of dialect has been effected. + + English New Zealand. Otahaita. + _Water_, Ewy, Evy. + _A tail of a dog_, Wyeroo, Ero. + _Death, dead_, Kaoo, matte, matte, roa. + _To fly_, Ererre, Eraire. + _A house_, Ewharre, Ewharre. + _To sleep_, Moea, Moe. + _A fish-hook_, Makoee, Matou. + _Shut_, Opanee, Opanee. + _A bed_, Moenga Moera. + _A butterfly_, Epaipe, Pepe. + _To chew_, or _eat_, Hekaee, Ey. + _Cold_, Makkareede, Mareede. + _To-day_, Agooanai, Aooanai. + _The hand_, Reenga, Ereema. + _Large_, Keeerahoi, Erahoi. + _Red_, Whairo, Oora, oora. + _We_, Taooa, Taooa. + _Where is it_? Kahaia, Tehaia. + _A stone_, Powhy, Owhy. + _A man_, Tangata, Taata. + _Black_, Purra, purra, Ere, ere. + _White_, Ema, Ooama. + _To reside_, or _dwell_, Nohoanna, Nohonoa, + _Out, not within_, Woho, Woho. + _Male kind_ (of any animal), Toa, Etoa. + _Female_, Eoowha, Eooha. + _A shark_, Mango, Mao. + _To understand_, Geetaia, Eetea. + _Forgot_, Warre, Ooaro. + _Yesterday_, Taeninnahoi, Ninnahoi. + _One_, Tahaee, Atahay. + _Two_, Rooa, Erooa. + _Three_, Toroo, Toroo. + _Four_, Faa, Ahaa. + _Five_, Reema, Ereema. + _Six_, Ono, Aono. + _Seven_, Heetoo, Aheitoo. + _Eight_, Waroo, Awaroo. + _Nine_, Eeva, Aeeva. + _Ten_, Angahoora, Ahooroo. + +The New Zealanders to these numerals prefix _Ma_; as, + + English. _New Zealand_. + Eleven, Matahee. + Twelve, &c &c. Marooa, &c. &c. + Twenty, Maogahoora. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +FROM LEAVING NEW ZEALAND TO OUR ARRIVAL AT OTAHEITE, OR THE SOCIETY +ISLANDS. + + + * * * * * + + +SECTION I. + +_Prosecution of the Voyage.--Behaviour of the Two New Zealanders on +board.--Unfavourable Winds.--An Island called Mangeea discovered.--The +Coast of it examined.--Transactions with the Natives,--An Account of +their Persons, Dress, and Canoe.--Description of the Island.--A Specimen +of the Language.--Disposition of the Inhabitants_. + + +On the 25th of February, at ten o'clock in the morning, a light breeze +springing up at N.W. by W., we weighed, stood out of the Sound, and made +sail through the strait, with the Discovery in company. We had hardly +got the length of Cape Teerawitte, when the wind took us aback at S.E. +It continued in this quarter till two o'clock the next morning, when we +had a few hours calm. After which we had a breeze at north; but here it +fixed not long, before it veered to the east, and after that to the +south. At length on the 27th, at eight o'clock in the morning, we took +our departure from Cape Palliser, which, at this time, bore W., seven +or eight leagues distant. We had a fine gale, and I steered E. by N. + +We had no sooner lost sight of the land, than our two New Zealand +adventurers, the sea sickness they now experienced giving a turn to +their reflections, repented heartily of the step they had taken. All the +soothing encouragement we could think of availed but little. They wept, +both in public and in private, and made their lamentations in a kind of +song, which, as far as we could comprehend the meaning of the words, was +expressive of their praises of their country and people, from which they +were to be separated for ever. Thus they continued for many days, till +their sea sickness wore off, and the tumult of their minds began to +subside. Then these fits of lamentation became less and less frequent, +and at length entirely ceased. Their native country and their friends +were, by degrees, forgot, and they appeared to be as firmly attached to +us, as if they had been born amongst us. + +The wind had not remained many hours at S., before it veered to S.E. and +E.; and, with this, we stood to the N., till the 28th at noon. Being +then in the latitude of 41 deg. 17', and in the longitude of 177 deg. 17' E., we +tacked and stood to the S.E., with a gentle breeze at E.N.E. It +afterward freshened, and came about to N.E.; in which quarter it +continued two days, and sometimes blew a fresh gale with squalls, +accompanied with showers of rain. + +On the 2d of March at noon, being in the latitude of 42 deg. 35' 30", +longitude 180 deg. 8' E., the wind shifted to N.W.; afterward to S.W.; and +between this point and north it continued to blow, sometimes a strong +gale with hard squalls, and at other times very moderate. With this wind +we steered N.E. by E. and E., under all the sail we could carry, till +the 11th at noon, at which time we were in the latitude of 39 deg. 29', +longitude 196 deg. 4' E. + +The wind now veered to N.E. and S.E., and I stood to the N., and to the +N.E., as the wind would admit, till one o'clock in the morning on the +16th, when having a more favourable gale from the north, I tacked and +stood to the east; the latitude being 33 deg. 40', and the longitude 198 deg. +50' E. We had light airs and calms by turns, till noon the next day, +when the wind began to freshen at E.S.E., and I again stood to the N.E. +But as the wind often veered to E. and E.N.E., we frequently made no +better than a northerly course; nay sometimes to the westward of north. +But the hopes of the wind coming more southerly, or of meeting with it +from the westward, a little without the Tropic, as I had experienced in +my former visits to this ocean, encouraged me to continue this course. +Indeed it was necessary that I should run all risks, as my proceeding to +the north this year, in prosecution of the principal object of the +voyage, depended entirely on my making a quick passage to Otaheite, or +the Society Islands. + +The wind continued invariably fixed at E.S.E., or seldom shifting above +two points on either side. It also blew very faint, so that it was the +27th before we crossed the Tropic, and then we were only in the +longitude of 201 deg. 25' E., which was nine degrees to the westward of our +intended port. In all this run we saw nothing, except now and then a +Tropic bird, that could induce us to think that we had sailed near any +land. In the latitude of 34 deg. 20', longitude 199 deg. we passed the trunk of +a large tree, which was covered with barnacles; a sign that it had been +long at sea. + +On the 29th, at ten in the morning, as we were standing to the N.E., the +Discovery made the signal of seeing land. We saw it from the mast-head +almost the same moment, bearing N.E. by E. by compass. We soon +discovered it to be an island of no great extent, and stood for it till +sunset, when it bore N.N.E., distant about two or three leagues. + +The night was spent in standing off and on, and at daybreak the next +morning, I bore up for the lee or west side of the island, as neither +anchorage nor landing appeared to be practicable on the south side, on +account of a great surf,[149] which broke every where with violence +against the shore, or against the reef that surrounded it. + +[Footnote 149: A very ingenious and satisfactory account of the cause of +the surf, is to be met with in Marsden'a History of Sumatra, p. +29-32.--D.] + +We presently found that the island was inhabited, and saw several +people, on a point of the land we had passed, wading to the reef, where, +as they found the ship leaving them quickly, they remained. But others, +who soon appeared in different parts, followed her course; and sometimes +several of them collected into small bodies, who made a shouting noise +all together, nearly after the manner of the inhabitants of New Zealand. + +Between seven and eight o'clock, we were at the W.N.W. part of the +island, and, being near the shore, we could perceive with our glasses, +that several of the natives, who appeared upon a sandy beach, were all +armed with long spears and clubs, which they brandished in the air with +signs of threatening, or, as some on board interpreted their attitudes, +with invitations to land. Most of them appeared naked, except having a +sort of girdle, which, being brought up between the thighs, covered that +part of the body. But some of them had pieces of cloth of different +colours, white, striped, or chequered, which they wore as a garment, +thrown about their shoulders. And almost all of them had a white wrapper +about their heads, not much unlike a turban; or, in some instances, like +a high conical cap. We could also perceive that they were of a tawny +colour, and, in general, of a middling stature, but robust, and +inclining to corpulence. + +At this time, a small canoe was launched in a great hurry from the +further end of the beach, and a man getting into it, put off, as with a +view to reach the ship. On perceiving this, I brought-to, that we might +receive the visit; but the man's resolution failing, he soon returned +toward the beach, where, after some time, another man joined him in the +canoe; and then they both paddled toward us. They stopt short, however, +as if afraid to approach, until Omai, who addressed them in the Otaheite +language, in some measure quieted their apprehensions. They then came +near enough, to take some beads and nails, which were tied to a piece of +wood, and thrown into the canoe. They seemed afraid to touch these +things, and put the piece of wood aside without untying them. This, +however, might arise from superstition; for Omai told us, that when they +saw us offering them presents, they asked something for their _Eatooa_, +or god. He also, perhaps improperly, put the question to them, Whether, +they ever ate human flesh? which they answered in the negative, with a +mixture of indignation and abhorrence. One of them, whose name was +Mourooa, being asked how he came by a scar on his forehead, told us that +it was the consequence of a wound he had got in fighting with the people +of an island, which lies to the north-eastward, who, sometimes came to +invade them. They afterward took hold of a rope. Still, however, they +would not venture on board; but told Omai, who understood them pretty +well, that their countrymen on shore had given them, this caution, at +the same time directing them to enquire, from whence our ship came, and +to learn the name of the captain. On our part, we enquired the name of +the island, which they called _Mangya_ or _Mangeea_; and sometimes added +to it _Nooe, nai, naiwa_. The name of their chief, they said, was +Orooaeeka. + +Mourooa was lusty and well-made, but not very tall. His features were +agreeable, and his disposition seemingly no less so; for he made several +droll gesticulations, which indicated both good-nature and a share of +humour. He also made others which seemed of a serious kind, and repeated +some words with a devout air, before he ventured to lay hold of the rope +at the ship's stern; which was probably to recommend himself to the +protection of some Divinity. His colour was nearly of the same cast with +that common to the most southern Europeans. The other man was not so +handsome. Both of them had strong, straight hair, of a jet colour, tied +together on the crown of the head with a bit of cloth. They wore such +girdles as we had perceived about those on shore, and we found they were +a substance made from the _Morus papyrifera_, in the same manner as at +the other islands of this ocean. It was glazed like the sort used by the +natives of the Friendly Islands; but the cloth, on their heads was +white, like that which is found at Otaheite. They had on a kind of +sandals, made of a grassy substance interwoven, which we also observed +were worn by those who stood upon the beach; and, as we supposed, +intended to defend their feet against the rough coral rock. Their beards +were long; and the inside of their arms, from the shoulder to the elbow, +and some other parts, were punctured or _tatooed_, after the manner of +the inhabitants of almost all the other islands in the South Sea. The +lobe of their ears was pierced, or rather slit, and to such a length, +that one of them stuck there a knife and some beads, which he had +received from us; and the same person had two polished pearl-shells, and +a bunch of human hair, loosely twisted, hanging about his neck, which +was the only ornament we observed. The canoe they came in (which was the +only one we saw), was not above ten feet long, and very narrow; but both +strong and neatly made. The fore part had a flat board fastened over it, +and projecting out, to prevent the sea getting in on plunging, like the +small _Evaas_ at Otaheite; but it had an upright stern, about five feet +high, like some in New Zealand; and the upper end of this stern-post +was forked. The lower part of the canoe was of white wood, but the upper +was black, and their paddles, made of wood of the same colour, not above +three feet long, broad at one end, and blunted. They paddled either end +of the canoe forward indifferently; and only turned about their faces to +paddle the contrary way. + +We now stood off and on; and as soon as the ships were in a proper +station, about ten o'clock I ordered two boats, one of them from the +Discovery, to sound the coast, and to endeavour to find a landing-place. +With this view, I went in one of them myself, taking with me such +articles to give the natives, as I thought might serve to gain their +good-will. I had no sooner put off from the ship, than the canoe, with +the two men, which had left us not long before, paddled toward my boat; +and, having come along-side, Mourooa stept into her, without being +asked, and without a moment's hesitation. + +Omai, who was with me, was ordered to enquire of him where we could +land; and he directed us to two different places. But I saw, with +regret, that the attempt could not be made at either place, unless at +the risk of having our boats filled with water, or even staved to +pieces. Nor were we more fortunate in our search for anchorage; for we +could find no bottom, till within a cable's length of the breakers. +There we met with from forty to twenty fathoms depth, over sharp coral +rocks; so that anchoring would have been attended with much more danger +than landing. + +While we were thus employed in reconnoitring the shore, great numbers of +the natives thronged down upon the reef, all armed as above mentioned. +Mourooa, who was now in my boat, probably thinking that this warlike +appearance hindered us from landing, ordered them to retire back. As +many of them complied, I judged he must be a person of some consequence +among them. Indeed, if we understood him right, he was the king's +brother. So great was the curiosity of several of them, that they took +to the water, and, swimming off to the boats, came on board them without +reserve. Nay, we found it difficult to keep them out; and still more +difficult to prevent their carrying off every thing they could lay their +hands upon. At length, when they perceived that we were returning to the +ships, they all left us, except our original visitor Mourooa. He, though +not without evident signs of fear, kept his place in my boat, and +accompanied me on board the ship. + +The cattle, and other new objects, that presented themselves to him +there, did not strike him with so much surprise as one might have +expected. Perhaps his mind was too much taken up about his own safety, +to allow him to attend to other things. It is certain, that he seemed +very uneasy; and the ship, on our getting on board, happening to be +standing off shore, this circumstance made him the more so. I could get +but little new information from him; and therefore, after he had made a +short stay, I ordered a boat to carry him in toward the land. As soon as +he got out of the cabin, he happened to stumble over one of the goats. +His curiosity now overcoming his fear, he stopped, looked at it, and +asked Omai, what bird this was? and not receiving an immediate answer +from him, he repeated the question to some of the people upon deck. The +boat having conveyed him pretty near to the surf, he leaped into the +sea, and swam ashore. He had no sooner landed, than the multitude of his +countrymen gathered round him, as if with an eager curiosity to learn +from him what he had seen; and in this situation they remained, when we +lost sight of them. As soon as the boat returned, we hoisted her in, and +made sail from the land to the northward. + +Thus were we obliged to leave, unvisited, this fine island, which seemed +capable of supplying all our wants. It lies in the latitude of 21 deg. 57' +S., and in the longitude of 201 deg. 53' E. Such parts of the coast as fell +under our observation, are guarded by a reef of coral rock, on the +outside of which the sea is of an unfathomable depth. It is full five +leagues in circuit, and of a moderate and pretty equal height; though, +in clear weather, it may be certainly seen at the distance of ten +leagues; for we had not lost sight of it at night, when we had run above +seven leagues, and the weather was cloudy. In the middle, it rises into +little hills, from whence there is a gentle descent to the shore, which, +at the S.W. part, is steep, though not above ten or twelve feet high; +and has several excavations made by the beating of the waves against a +brownish sand-stone of which it is composed. The descent here is covered +with trees of a deep green colour, very thick, but not high, which seem +all of one sort, unless nearest the shore, where there are great numbers +of that species of _dracaena_ found in the woods of New Zealand, which +are also scattered in some other places. On the N.W. part, the shore, as +we mentioned above, ends in a sandy beach; beyond which the land is +broken down into small chasms or gullies, and has a broad border of +trees resembling tall willows; which, from its regularity, might be +supposed a work of art, did not its extent forbid us to think so. +Farther up on the ascent, the trees were of the deep green mentioned +before. Some of us supposed these to be the _rima_, intermixed with low +cocoa palms; and a few of some other sorts. They seemed not so thick as +on the S.W. part, and higher; which appearance might be owing to our +nearer approach to the shore. On the little hills were some trees of a +taller sort, thinly scattered; but the other parts of them were either +bare, and of a reddish colour, or covered with something like fern. Upon +the whole, the island has a pretty aspect, and might be made a beautiful +spot by cultivation. + +As the inhabitants seemed to be both numerous and well fed, such +articles of provision as the island produces must be in great plenty. It +might, however, be a matter of curiosity to know, particularly, their +method of subsistence; for our friend Mourooa told us, that they had no +animals, as hogs and dogs, both which, however, they had heard of; but +acknowledged they had plantains, bread-fruit, and taro. The only birds +we saw, were some white egg-birds, terns, and noddies; and one white +heron, on the shore. + +The language of the inhabitants of Mangeea is a dialect of that spoken +at Otaheite; though their pronunciation, as that of the New Zealanders, +be more guttural. Some of their words, of which two or three are perhaps +peculiar to this island, are here subjoined, as taken, by Mr Anderson, +from Omai, who had learnt them in his conversations with Mourooa. The +Otaheite words, where there is any resemblance, are placed opposite. + + English. _Mangeea._ _Otaheite._ + _A cocoa nut_, Eakkaree, Aree. + _Bread-fruit_, Kooroo, Ooroo. + _A canoe_, Ewakka, Evaa. + _Friend_, Naoo, mou. + _A man_, Taata, or Tangata, Taata. + _Cloth_, or _cloth plant_, Taia, taia aoutee, Eoute. + _Good_, Mata, Myty. + _A club_, Pooroohee. + _Yes_, Aee, Ai. + _No_, Aoure, Aoure. + _A spear_, Heyhey. + A_fight, or battle_, Etamagee, Tamaee. + _A woman_, Waheine, Waheine. + _A daughter_, Maheine, Maheine. + _The sun_, Heetaia matooa. + _I_, Ou, Wou. + _The shore_, Euta, Euta. + _What is that?_ Ehataieee? Owytaieeoa? + _There_, Oo. + + English. _Mangeea_. _Otaheite_. + _A chief_, Ereekee, Eree. + + _Great_, or _powerful_, Manna (_an adjunct to + the last_.) + + _To kiss_, Ooma. + +The natives of Mangeea seem to resemble those of Otaheite and the +Marquesas in the beauty of their persons, more than any other nation I +have seen in these seas; having a smooth skin, and not being muscular. +Their general disposition also corresponds, as far as we had +opportunities of judging, with that which distinguishes the +first-mentioned people. For they are not only cheerful, but, as Mourooa +shewed us, are acquainted with all the lascivious gesticulations which +the Otaheitans practise in their dances. It may also be supposed, that +their method of living is similar. For, though the nature of the country +prevented our seeing many of their habitations, we observed one house +near the beach, which much resembled, in its mode of construction, those +of Otaheite. It was pleasantly situated in a grove of trees, and +appeared to be about thirty feet long, and seven or eight high, with an +open end, which represented an ellipse divided transversely. Before it, +was spread something white on a few bushes; which we conjectured to be a +fishing net, and, to appearance, of a very delicate texture. + +They salute strangers much after the manner of the New Zealanders, by +joining noses; adding, however, the additional ceremony of taking the +hand of the person to whom they are paying civilities, and rubbing it +with a degree of force upon their nose and mouth.[150] + +[Footnote 150: The inhabitants of the Palaos, New Philippine, or rather +Caroline Islands, at the distance of almost fifteen hundred leagues from +Mangeea, have the same mode of salutation. "Leur civilitie, et la marque +de leur respect, consiste a prendre la main ou la pied de celui a qui +ils veulent faire honneur, et s'en frotter doucement toute le +visage."--_Lettres Edifiantes & Curieuses_, tom. xv. p. 208. _Edit_. +1781.--- D.] + + +SECTION II. + +_The Discovery of an Island called Wateeoo.--Its Coasts +examined.--Visits from the Natives on board the Ships.--Mess. Gore, +Barney, and Anderson, with Omai, sent on Shore.--Mr Anderson's Narrative +of their Reception.--Omai's Expedient to prevent their being +detained.--His meeting with some of his Countrymen, and their +distressful Voyage.--Farther Account of Wateeoo, and of its +Inhabitants_. + + +After leaving Mangeea, on the afternoon of the 30th of March, we +continued our course northward, all that night, and till noon on the +31st; when we again saw land, in the direction of N.E. by N., distant +eight or ten leagues. + +Next morning, at eight o'clock, we had got abreast of its north end, +within four leagues of it, but to leeward; and could now pronounce it to +be an island, nearly of the same appearance and extent with that we had +so lately left. At the same time, another island, but much smaller, was +seen right ahead. We could have soon reached this; but the largest one +had the preference, as most likely to furnish a supply of food for the +cattle, of which we began to be in great want. + +With this view I determined to work up to it; but as there was but +little wind, and that little was unfavourable, we were still two leagues +to leeward at eight o'clock the following morning. Soon after, I sent +two armed boats from the Resolution, and one from the Discovery, under +the command of Lieutenant Gore, to look for anchoring-ground, and a +landing-place. In the mean time, we plyed up under the island with the +ships. + +Just as the boats were putting off, we observed several single canoes +coming from the shore. They went first to the Discovery, she being the +nearest ship. It was not long after, when three of these canoes came +along-side of the Resolution, each conducted by one man. They are long +and narrow, and supported by outriggers. The stern is elevated about +three or four feet, something like a ship's stern-post. The head is flat +above, but prow-like below, and turns down at the extremity, like the +end of a violin. Some knives, beads, and other trifles were conveyed to +our visitors; and they gave us a few cocoa-nuts, upon our asking for +them. But they did not part with them by way of exchange for what they +had received from us. For they seemed to have no idea of bartering; nor +did they appear to estimate any of our presents at a high rate. + +With a little persuasion, one of them made his canoe fast to the ship, +and came on board; and the other two, encouraged by his example, soon +followed him. Their whole behaviour marked that they were quite at their +ease, and felt no sort of apprehension of our detaining, or using them +ill. + +After their departure, another canoe arrived, conducted by a man who +brought a bunch of plantains as a present to me; asking for me by name, +having learnt it from Omai, who was sent before us in the boat with Mr +Gore. In return for this civility, I gave him an axe, and a piece of red +cloth; and he paddled back to the shore well satisfied. I afterward +understood from Omai, that this present had been sent from the king, or +principal chief of the island. + +Not long after, a double canoe, in which were twelve men, came toward +us. As they drew near the ship, they recited some words in concert, by +way of chorus,[151] one of their number first standing up, and giving +the word before each repetition. When they had finished their solemn +chant, they came along-side, and asked for the chief. As soon as I +shewed myself, a pig and a few cocoa-nuts were conveyed up into the +ship; and the principal person in the canoe made me an additional +present of a piece of matting, as soon as he and his companions got on +board. + +[Footnote 151: Something like this ceremony was performed by the +inhabitants of the Marquesas, when Captain Cook visited them in 1774. It +is curious to observe, at what immense distances this mode of receiving +strangers prevails. Padillo, who sailed from Manilla in 1710, on a +voyage to discover the Palaos Islands, was thus received there. The +writer of the relation of his voyage says, "Aussitot qu'ils approcherent +de notre bord, ils se mirent a chanter. Ils regloient la cadence, en +frappant des mains sur leurs cuisses."--_Lettres Edifiantes & +Curieuses_, tom. xv. p. 323.--D.] + +Our visitors were conducted into the cabin, and to other parts of the +ship. Some objects seemed to strike them with a degree of surprise; but +nothing fixed their attention for a moment. They were afraid to come +near the cows and horses; nor did they form the least conception of +their nature. But the sheep and goats did not surpass the limits of +their ideas; for they gave us to understand, that they knew them to be +birds. It will appear rather incredible, that human ignorance could ever +make so strange a mistake; there not being the most distant similitude +between a sheep or goat, and any winged animal. But these people seemed +to know nothing of the existence of any other land-animals, besides +hogs, dogs, and birds. Our sheep and goats, they could see, were very +different creatures from the two first, and therefore they inferred, +that they must belong to the latter class, in which they knew there is a +considerable variety of species.[152] I made a present to my new friend +of what I thought might be most acceptable to him; but, on his going +away, he seemed rather disappointed than pleased. I afterward understood +that he was very desirous of obtaining a dog, of which animal this +island could not boast, though its inhabitants knew that the race +existed in other islands of their ocean. Captain Clerke had received the +like present, with the same view, from another man, who met with from +him the like disappointment. + +[Footnote 152: "I would add," says Mr Stewart, in his Elements of the +Phil, of Hum. Mind, p. 154, 2d ed., "I would add to Cook's very +judicious remarks, that the mistake of these islanders probably did not +arise from their considering a sheep or a goat as bearing a more +striking resemblance to a bird, than to the two classes of quadrupeds +with which they were acquainted; but to the want of a generic word, such +as _quadruped_, comprehending these two species; which men in their +situation would no more be led to form, than a person, who had only seen +one individual of each species, would think of an appellation to express +both, instead of applying a proper name to each. In consequence of the +variety of birds, it appears that they had a generic name comprehending +all of them, to which it was not unnatural for them to refer any new +animal they met with."--This solution is very specious, but when +narrowly examined, will be found to rest on two suppositions not +altogether borne out by evidence, and also to be liable to yield a +conclusion not readily reconcileable with all the circumstances of the +case. In the first place, it is not proved that these islanders had no +generic word to comprehend the two species of quadrupeds with which they +were acquainted; and the reason given for their want of it, which, after +all, is merely a probable one, cannot be allowed much force. Its +weakness will appear from the consideration, that men in their +situation, having certainly an idea of number, must, according to Mr +S.'s own principles stated in the next page, have possessed the power of +attending separately to the things which their senses had presented to +them in a state of union, and have found it necessary to apply to all +of them one common name, or, in other words, "to have reduced them all +to the same genus." It is requisite, therefore, for the validity of Mr +S.'s reason, to shew that these islanders either were not able to +distinguish betwixt their hogs and dogs, or had never numbered them +together, which it is quite impossible to credit. Even the case of the +person who had seen only one individual of each species, which Mr S. +conceives similar to that we are considering, may be argued against in +the same manner, and besides this, will be found not analogous. The +reason is plain. He may or may not have been able, from a solitary +observation, to infer that the distinction he noticed betwixt them was a +radical difference, or, in the language of the schoolmen, was essential: +Whereas the islanders, from the constancy of the differences they +observed, must have been necessitated to form a classification of the +objects, the result of which would be, the use of one term for the +common properties or the resemblance, and two words for the comprehended +individuals. In the second place, it cannot otherwise be made appear, +that these islanders had a generic name comprehending the variety of +birds with which they were acquainted, than on such principles of +reasoning as we have now been considering, the proper inference from +which, as we have seen, is destructive of the foundation of Mr S.'s +solution. Here, it may be remarked, it is somewhat unfortunate that we +cannot depend implicitly on Captain Cook's account as to the words in +which the islanders conveyed the notions we have been commenting on; +because, as the reader will find at the end of this section, these +people, who, whatever rank they may be allowed to hold as logicians, +were at all events very dexterous thieves, stole the memorandum book in +which Mr Anderson had recorded a specimen of their language. But +admitting Mr S.'s suppositions, it then may be shewn, that not only the +sheep and the goats, but also the horses and cows, considered, in the +words of Mr S., as _new animals_, would have been referred by these +islanders to the same genus, and therefore considered as birds. The +circumstance of their greater size, or, indeed, any other discernible +difference, cannot here be pleaded as exceptive, without in reality +abandoning the principles on which the solution is constructed. On the +whole, perhaps, it may seem more correct to imagine, that these +islanders were struck with some fanciful and distant resemblance to +certain birds they were acquainted with, from which they hastily +inferred identity of nature, notwithstanding some very visible +discrepancies; whereas the remarkable dissimilarity betwixt the new +quadrupeds and those they were previously acquainted with, impressed +their minds with the notion of complete contrariety. In other words, +they concluded, from the unlikeness, that these animals were neither +dogs nor hogs, and, from the resemblance, that they were birds. It is +erroneous to say, with Cook, that there is not the most distant +similitude between a sheep or goat, and any winged animal. For the +classifications adopted in every system of natural history, proceed +upon the discovery of still more remote resemblances among the objects +of the science, than such as may be noticed in the present case; and it +will almost always be found, that there is greater difficulty in +ascertaining differences amongst those objects which are allied, than +similarity amongst those which are unconnected. The facility with which +ideas are associated in the mind, as Mr S. informs us, p. 295, is very +different in different individuals, and "lays the foundation of +remarkable varieties of men both in respect of genius and of character;" +and he elsewhere (p. 291) admits, "that things which have no known +relation to each other are often associated, in consequence of their +producing similar effects on the mind." With respect to the former +remark, the facility, it might be practicable to shew, that, in general, +it is proportioned to the ignorance and imperfect education, of the +individuals, hence children and the female sex (as Mr S. himself +asserts) exhibit most of it; and, in consistency with the latter +observation, we have but to imagine, that some effect having been +produced on the minds of these islanders by the sight of the animals in +question, similar to what they had previously experienced from some bird +or birds which they had occasionally seen, led them to the remarkable +association we have been considering. It would not be very difficult to +intimate how this might have happened, but the length of our note, the +reader may think, is much greater than its importance, and he may prefer +to amuse himself at another time, by following out the investigation. +Let it be our apology for entering on it at all, that it is only by +diligent reflection on such mysterious trains of thought, we can hope to +acquire any just conceptions of the faculties and operations of our own +minds.--E.] + +The people in these canoes were in general of a middling size, and not +unlike those of Mangeea; though several were of a blacker cast than any +we saw there. Their hair was tied on the crown of the head, or flowing +loose about the shoulders; and though in some it was of a frizzling +disposition, yet, for the most part, that, as well as the straight sort, +was long. Their features were various, and some of the young men rather +handsome. Like those of Mangeea, they had girdles of glazed cloth, or +fine matting, the ends of which, being brought-betwixt their thighs, +covered the adjoining parts. Ornaments, composed of a sort of broad +grass, stained with red, and strung with berries of the nightshade, were +worn about their necks. Their ears were bored, but not slit; and they +were punctured upon the legs, from, the knee to the heel, which made +them appear as if they wore a kind of boots. They also resembled the +inhabitants of Mangeea in the length of their beards, and, like them, +wore a sort of sandals upon their feet. Their behaviour was frank and +cheerful, with a great deal of good-nature. + +At three o'clock in the afternoon, Mr Gore returned with the boat, and +informed me, that he had examined all the west side of the island, +without finding a place where a boat could land, or the ships could +anchor, the shore being every where bounded by a steep coral rock, +against which the sea broke in a dreadful surf. But as the natives +seemed very friendly, and to express a degree of disappointment when +they saw that our people failed in their attempts to land, Mr Gore was +of opinion, that by means of Omai, who could best explain our request, +they might be prevailed upon to bring off to the boats, beyond the surf, +such articles as we most wanted; in particular, the stems of plantain +trees, which make good food for the cattle. Having little or no wind, +the delay of a day or two was not of any moment; and therefore I +determined to try the experiment, and got every thing ready against the +next morning. + +Soon after day-break, we observed some canoes coming off to the ships, +and one of them directed its course to the Resolution. In it was a hog, +with some plantains and cocoa nuts, for which the people who brought +them demanded a dog from us, and refused every other thing that we +offered in exchange. One of our gentlemen on board happened to have a +dog and a bitch, which were great nuisances in the ship, and might have +been disposed of on this occasion for a purpose of real utility, by +propagating a race of so useful an animal in this island. But their +owner had no such views, in making them the companions of his voyage. +However, to gratify these people, Omai parted with a favourite dog he +had brought from England; and with this acquisition they departed highly +satisfied. + +About ten o'clock, I dispatched Mr Gore with three boats, two from the +Resolution, and one from the Discovery, to try the experiment he had +proposed. And, as I could confide in his diligence and ability, I left +it entirely to himself, to act as, from circumstances, he should judge +to be most proper. Two of the natives, who had been on board, +accompanied him, and Omai went with him in his boat as an interpreter. +The ships being a full league from the island when the boats put off, +and having but little wind, it was noon before we could work up to it. +We then saw our three boats riding at their grapplings, just without the +surf, and a prodigious number of the natives on the shore, abreast of +them. By this we concluded, that Mr Gore, and others of our people, had +landed, and our impatience to know the event may be easily conceived. In +order to observe their motions, and to be ready to give them such +assistance as they might want, and our respective situations would admit +of, I kept as near the shore as was prudent. I was sensible, however, +that the reef was as effectual a barrier between us and our friends who +had landed, and put them as much beyond the reach of our protection, as +if half the circumference of the globe had intervened. But the +islanders, it was probable, did not know this so well as we did. Some of +them, now and then, came off to the ships in their canoes, with a few +cocoa nuts; which they exchanged for whatever was offered to them, +without seeming to give the preference to any particular article. + +These occasional visits served to lessen my solicitude about our people +who had landed. Though we could get no information from our visitors, +yet their venturing on board seemed to imply, at least, that their +countrymen on shore had not made an improper use of the confidence put +in them. At length, a little before sun-set, we had the satisfaction of +seeing the boats put off. When they got on board, I found that Mr Gore +himself, Omai, Mr Anderson, and, Mr Burney, were the only persons who +had landed. The transactions of the day were now fully reported to me by +Mr Gore; but Mr Anderson's account of them being very particular, and +including some remarks on the island and its inhabitants, I shall give +it a place here, nearly in his own words. + +"We rowed toward a small sandy beach, upon which, and upon the adjacent +rocks, a great number of the natives had assembled; and came to an +anchor within a hundred yards of the reef, which extends about as far, +or a little farther, from the shore. Several of the natives swam off, +bringing cocoa-nuts; and Omai, with their countrymen, whom we had with +us in the boats, made them sensible of our wish to land. But their +attention was taken up, for a little time, by the dog, which had been +carried from the ship, and was just brought on shore, round whom they +flocked with great eagerness. Soon after, two canoes came off; and, to +create a greater confidence in the islanders, we determined to go +unarmed, and run the hazard of being treated well or ill." + +"Mr Burney, the first lieutenant of the Discovery, and I went in one +canoe, a little time before the other; and our conductors, watching +attentively the motions of the surf, landed us safely upon the reef. An +islander took hold of each of us, obviously with an intention to support +us in walking, over the rugged rocks, to the beach, where several of the +others met us, holding the green boughs of a species of _Mimosa_ in +their hands, and saluted us by applying their noses to ours." + +"We were conducted from the beach by our guides, amidst a great crowd of +people, who flocked with very eager curiosity to look at us; and would +have prevented our proceeding, had not some men, who seemed to have +authority, dealt blows, with little distinction, amongst them, to keep +them off. We were then led up an avenue of cocoa-palms; and soon came to +a number of men, arranged in two rows, armed with clubs, which they held +on their shoulders, much in the manner we rest a musquet. After walking +a little way amongst these, we found a person who seemed a chief, +sitting on the ground cross-legged, cooling himself with a sort of +triangular fan, made from a leaf of the cocoa palm, with a polished +handle, of black wood, fixed to one corner. In his ears were large +bunches of beautiful red feathers, which pointed forward. But he had no +other mark, or ornament, to distinguish him from the rest of the people; +though they all obeyed him with the greatest alacrity. He either +naturally had, or at this time put on, a serious, but not severe +countenance; and we were desired to salute him as he sat, by some people +who seemed of consequence." + +"We proceeded still amongst the men armed with clubs, and came to a +second chief, who sat fanning himself, and ornamented as the first. He +was remarkable for his size, and uncommon corpulence, though, to +appearance, not above thirty years of age. In the same manner, we were +conducted to a third chief, who seemed older than the two former, and, +though not so fat as the second, was of a large size. He also was +sitting, and adorned with red feathers; and after saluting him as we had +done the others, he desired us both to sit down, which we were very +willing to do, being pretty well fatigued with walking up, and with the +excessive heat we felt amongst the vast crowd that surrounded us." + +"In a few minutes, the people were ordered to separate; and we saw, at +the distance of thirty yards, about twenty young women, ornamented as +the chiefs, with red feathers, engaged in a dance, which they performed +to a slow and serious air, sung by them all. We got up, and went forward +to see them; and though we must have been strange objects to them, they +continued their dance, without paying the least attention to us. They +seemed to be directed by a man who served as a prompter, and mentioned +each motion they were to make. But they never changed the spot, as we do +in dancing, and though their feet were not at rest, this exercise +consisted more in moving the fingers very nimbly, at the same time +holding the hands in a prone position near the face, and now and then +also clapping them together.[153] Their motions and songs were performed +in such exact concert, that it should seem they had been taught with +great care; and probably they were selected for this ceremony, as few of +those whom we saw in the crowd equalled them in beauty. In general, they +were rather stout than slender, with black hair flowing in ringlets down +the neck, and of an olive complexion. Their features were rather fuller +than what we allow to perfect beauties, and much alike; but their eyes +were of a deep black, and each countenance expressed a degree of +complacency and modesty, peculiar to the sex in every part of the world, +but perhaps more conspicuous here, where Nature presented us with her +productions in the fullest perfection, unbiassed in sentiment by custom, +or unrestrained in manner by art. Their shape and limbs were elegantly +formed. For, as their dress consisted only of a piece of glazed cloth +fastened about the waist, and scarcely reaching so low as the knees, in +many we had an opportunity of observing every part. This dance was not +finished, when we heard a noise, as if some horses had been galloping +toward us; and, on looking aside, we saw the people armed with clubs, +who had been desired, as we supposed, to entertain us with the sight of +their manner of fighting. This they now did, one party pursuing another +who fled." + +[Footnote 153: The dances of the inhabitants of the Caroline Islands +have a great resemblance to those here described. See Lettres Edif. et +Curieuses, tom. xv. p. 315. See also, in the same volume, p. 207, what +is said of the singing and dancing of the inhabitants of the Palaos +Islands, which belong to the same group.--D.] + +"As we supposed the ceremony of being introduced to the chiefs was at an +end, we began to look about for Mr Gore and Omai; and, though the crowd +would hardly suffer us to move, we at length found them coming up, as +much incommoded by the number of people as we had been, and introduced +in the same manner to the three chiefs, whose names were Otteroo, Taroa, +and Fatouweera. Each of these expected a present; and Mr Gore gave them +such things as he had brought with him from the ship, for that purpose. +After this, making use of Omai as his interpreter, he informed the +chiefs with what intention we had come on shore; but was given to +understand, that he must wait till the next day, and then he should have +what was wanted." + +"They now seemed to take some pains to separate us from each other; and +every one of us had his circle to surround and gaze at him. For my own +part, I was, at one time, above an hour apart from my friends; and when +I told the chief, with whom I sat, that I wanted to speak to Omai, he +peremptorily refused my request. At the same time, I found the people +began to steal several trifling things which I had in my pocket; and +when I took the liberty of complaining to the chief of this treatment, +he justified it. From these circumstances, I now entertained +apprehensions, that they might have formed the design of detaining us +amongst them. They did not, indeed, seem to be of a disposition so +savage, as to make us anxious for the safety of our persons; but it was, +nevertheless, vexing to think we had hazarded being detained by their +curiosity. In this situation, I asked for something to eat; and they +readily brought to me some cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and a sort of sour +pudding; which was presented by a woman. And on my complaining much of +the heat, occasioned by the crowd, the chief himself condescended to fan +me, and gave me a small piece of cloth, which he had round his waist." + +"Mr Burney happening to come to the place where I was, I mentioned my +suspicions to him; and, to put it to the test, whether they were +well-founded, we attempted to get to the beach. But we were stopped, +when about halfway, by some men, who told us, that we must go back to +the place which we had left. On coming up, we found Omai entertaining +the same apprehensions. But he had, as he fancied, an additional reason +for being afraid; for he had observed, that they had dug a hole in the +ground for an oven, which they were now heating; and he could assign no +other reason for this, than that they meant to roast and eat us, as is +practised by the inhabitants of New Zealand. Nay, he went so far as to +ask them the question; at which they were greatly surprised, asking, in +return, whether that was a custom with us? Mr Burney and I were rather +angry that they should be thus suspected by him; there having, as yet, +been no appearances, in their conduct toward us, of their being capable +of such brutality." + +"In this manner we were detained the greatest part of the day, being +sometimes together, and sometimes separated, but always in a crowd; who, +not satisfied with gazing at us, frequently desired us to uncover part +of our skin; the sight of which commonly produced a general murmur of +admiration. At the same time they did not omit these opportunities of +rifling our pockets; and, at last, one of them snatched a small bayonet +from Mr Gore, which hung in its sheath by his side. This was represented +to the chief, who pretended to send some person in search of it. But, in +all probability, he countenanced the theft; for, soon after, Omai had a +dagger stolen from his side, in the same manner, though he did not miss +it immediately." + +"Whether they observed any signs of uneasiness in us, or that they +voluntarily repeated their emblems of friendship when we expressed a +desire to go, I cannot tell; but, at this time, they brought some green +boughs, and, sticking their ends in the ground, desired we might hold +them as we sat. Upon out urging again the business we came upon, they +gave us to understand, that we must stay and eat with them; and a pig +which we saw, soon after, lying near the oven, which they had prepared +and heated, removed Omai's apprehension of being put into it himself; +and made us think it might be intended for our repast. The chief also +promised to send some people to procure food for the cattle; but it was +not till pretty late in the afternoon, that we saw them return with a +few plantain-trees, which they carried to our boats." + +"In the mean time, Mr Barney and I attempted again to go to the beach; +but when we arrived, we found ourselves watched by people, who, to +appearance, had been placed there for this purpose. For when I tried to +wade in upon the reef, one of them took hold of my clothes and dragged +me back. I picked up some small pieces of coral, which they required me +to throw down again; and, on my refusal, they made no scruple to take +them forcibly from me. I had gathered some small plants, but these also +I could not be permitted to retain. And they took a fan from Mr Barney, +which he had received as a present on coming ashore. Omai said we had +done wrong in taking up any thing, for it was not the custom here to +permit freedoms of that kind to strangers, till they had, in some +measure, naturalized them to the country, by entertaining them with +festivity for two or three days." + +"Finding that the only method of procuring better treatment was to yield +implicit obedience to their will, we went up again to the place we had +left; and they now promised that we should have a canoe to carry us off +to our boats, after we had eaten of a repast which they had prepared for +us." + +"Accordingly the second chief, to whom we had been introduced in the +morning, having seated himself upon a low broad stool of blackish hard +wood, tolerably polished, and, directing the multitude to make a pretty +large ring, made us sit down by him. A considerable number of cocoa-nuts +were now brought, and shortly after a long green basket, with a +sufficient quantity of baked plantains to have served a dozen persons. A +piece of the young hog, that had been dressed, was then set before each +of us, of which we were desired to eat. Our appetites, however, had +failed from the fatigue of the day; and though we did eat a little to +please them, it was without satisfaction to ourselves." + +"It being now near sun-set, we told them it was time to go on board. +This they allowed, and sent down to the beach the remainder of the +victuals that had been dressed, to be carried with us to the ships. But, +before we set out, Omai was treated with a drink he had been used to in +his own country, which, we observed, was made here, as at other islands +in the South Sea, by chewing the root of a sort of pepper. We found a +canoe ready to put us off to our boats, which the natives did with the +same caution as when we landed. But even here their thievish disposition +did not leave them. For a person of some consequence among them, who +came with us, took an opportunity, just as they were pushing the canoe +into the surf, to snatch a bag out of her, which I had with the greatest +difficulty preserved all day, there being in it a small pocket-pistol, +which I was unwilling to part with. Perceiving him, I called out, +expressing as much displeasure as I could. On which he thought proper to +return, and swim with the bag to the canoe; but he denied he had stolen +it, though detected in the very act. They put us on board our boats, +with the cocoa-nuts, plantains, and other provisions, which they had +brought, and we rowed to the ships, very well pleased that we had at +last got out of the hands of our troublesome masters." + +"We regretted much that our restrained situation gave us so little +opportunity of making observations on the country; for, during the whole +day, we were seldom a hundred yards from the place where we were +introduced to the chiefs on landing, and consequently, were confined to +the surrounding objects. The first thing that presented itself, worthy +of our notice, was the number of people, which must have been at least +two thousand. For those who welcomed us on the shore bore no proportion +to the multitude we found amongst the trees, on proceeding a little way +up." + +"We could also observe, that, except a few, those we had hitherto seen +on board were of the lower class; for a great number of those we now met +with had a superior dignity in their air, and were of a much whiter +cast. In general, they had the hair tied on the crown of the head, long, +black, and of a most luxuriant growth. Many of the young men were +perfect models in shape, of a complexion as delicate as that of the +women, and, to appearance, of a disposition as amiable. Others, who were +more advanced in years, were corpulent; and all had a remarkable +smoothness of the skin. Their general dress was a piece of cloth, or +mat, wrapped about the waist, and covering the parts which modesty +conceals. But some had pieces of mats, most curiously varied with black +and white, made into a sort of jacket without sleeves; and others wore +conical caps of cocoa-nut core, neatly interwoven with small beads, made +of a shelly substance. Their ears were pierced; and in them they hung +bits of the membranous part of some plant, or stuck there an odoriferous +flower, which seemed to be a species of _gardenia_. Some, who were of a +superior class, and also the chiefs, had two little balls, with a common +base, made from the bone of some animal, which was hung round the neck, +with a great many folds of small cord. And after the ceremony of +introduction to the chiefs was over, they then appeared without their +red feathers, which are certainly considered here as a particular mark +of distinction, for none but themselves, and the young women who danced, +assumed them." + +"Some of the men were punctured all over the sides and back in an +uncommon manner; and some of the women had the same ornament on their +legs. But this method was confined to those who seemed to be of a +superior rank; and the men, in that case, were also generally +distinguished by their size and corpulence, unless very young. The women +of an advanced age had their hair cropped short; and many were cut in +oblique lines all over the fore-part of the body; and some of the +wounds, which formed rhomboidal figures, had been so lately inflicted, +that the coagulated blood still remained in them." + +"The wife of one of the chiefs appeared with her child, laid in a piece +of red cloth, which had been presented to her husband, and seemed to +carry it with great tenderness, suckling it much after the manner of our +women. Another chief introduced his daughter, who was young and +beautiful, but appeared with all the timidity natural to the sex, though +she gazed on us with a kind of anxious concern, that seemed to struggle +with her fear, and to express her astonishment at so unusual a sight. +Others advanced with more firmness, and indeed were less reserved than +we expected, but behaved with a becoming modesty. We did not observe any +personal deformities amongst either sex, except in a few who had scars +of broad superficial ulcers remaining on the face and other parts. In +proportion to the number of people assembled, there appeared not many +old men or women; which may easily be accounted for, by supposing that +such as were in an advanced period of life, might neither have the +inclination nor the ability to come from the more distant parts of the +island. On the other hand, the children were numerous; and both these +and the men climbed the trees to look at us when we were hid by the +surrounding crowd." + +"About a third part of the men were armed with clubs and spears; and +probably these were only the persons who had come from a distance, as +many of them had small baskets, mats, and other things, fastened to the +ends of their weapons. The clubs were generally about six feet long, +made of a hard black wood, lance-shaped at the end, but much broader, +with the edge nicely scolloped, and the whole neatly polished. Others of +them were narrower at the point, much shorter, and plain; and some were +even so small as to be used with one hand. The spears were made of the +same wood, simply pointed, and, in general, above twelve feet long; +though some were so short that they seemed intended to be thrown as +darts." + +"The place where we were all the day was under the shade of various +trees, in which they preserved their canoes from the sun. About eight or +ten of them were here, all double ones, that is, two single ones +fastened together (as is usual throughout the whole extent of the +Pacific Ocean) by rafters lashed across. They were about twenty feet +long, about four feet deep, and the sides rounded with a plank raised +upon them, which was fastened strongly by means of withes. Two of these +canoes were most curiously stained, or painted, all over with black, in +numberless small figures, as squares, triangles, &c. and excelled by far +any thing of that kind I had ever seen at any other island in this +ocean. Our friends here, indeed, seemed to have exerted more skill in +doing this than in puncturing their own bodies. The paddles were about +four feet long, nearly elliptical, but broader at the upper end than the +middle. Near the same place was a hut or shed, about thirty feet long, +and nine or ten high, in which, perhaps, these boats are built; but at +this time it was empty." + +"The greatest number of the trees around us were _cocoa-palms_, some +sorts of _hibiscus_, a species of _euphorbia_, and, toward the sea, +abundance of the same kind of trees we had seen at Mangeea Nooe +Nainaiwa, and which seemed to surround the shores of the island in the +same manner. They are tall and slender, not much unlike a cypress, but +with bunches of long, round, articulated leaves. The natives call them +_etoa_. On the ground we saw some grass, a species of _convolvulus_, and +a good deal of _treacle-mustard_. There are also, doubtless, other +fruit-trees and useful plants which we did not see; for, besides several +sorts of _plantains_, they brought, at different times, roots which they +call _taro_, (the _coccos_ of other countries,) a bread-fruit, and a +basket of roasted nuts, of a kidney shape, in taste like a chesnut, but +coarser." + +"What the soil of the island may be farther inland we could not tell, +but toward the sea it is nothing more than a bank of coral, ten or +twelve feet high, steep and rugged, except where there are small sandy +beaches at some clefts, where the ascent is gradual. The coral, though +it has probably been exposed to the weather for many centuries, has +undergone no farther change than becoming black on the surface, which, +from its irregularity, is not much unlike large masses of a burnt +substance. But, on breaking some pieces off, we found that, at the depth +of two or three inches, it was just as fresh as the pieces that had been +lately thrown upon the beach by the waves. The reef, or rock, that lines +the shore entirely, runs to different breadths into the sea, where it +ends all at once, and becomes like a high, steep wall. It is nearly even +with the surface of the water, and of a brown or brick colour; but the +texture is rather porous, yet sufficient to withstand the washing of the +surf which continually breaks upon it." + +Though the landing of our gentlemen proved the means of enriching my +journal with the foregoing particulars, the principal object I had in +view was, in a great measure, unattained; for the day was spent without +getting any one thing from the island worth mentioning. The natives, +however, were gratified with a sight they never before had, and +probably will never have again. And mere curiosity seems to have been +their chief motive for keeping the gentlemen under such restraint, and +for using every art to prolong their continuance amongst them. + +It has been mentioned that Omai was sent upon this expedition; and +perhaps his being Mr Gore's interpreter was not the only service he +performed this day. He was asked by the natives a great many questions +concerning us, our ships, our country, and the sort of arms we used; +and, according to the account he gave me, his answers were not a little +upon the marvellous. As, for instance, he told them that our country had +ships as large as their island, on board which were instruments of war +(describing our guns) of such dimensions that several people might sit +within them, and that one of them was sufficient to crush the whole +island at one shot. This led them to enquire of him what sort of guns we +actually had in our two ships. He said, that though they were but small +in comparison with those he had just described, yet, with such as they +were, we could, with the greatest ease, and at the distance the ships +were from the shore, destroy the island, and kill every soul in it. They +persevered in their enquiries, to know by what means this could be done; +and Omai explained the matter as well as he could. He happened luckily +to have a few cartridges in his pocket. These he produced; the balls, +and the gunpowder which was to set them in motion, were submitted to +inspection; and, to supply the defects of his description, an appeal was +made to the senses of the spectators. It has been mentioned above, that +one of the chiefs had ordered the multitude to form themselves into a +circle. This furnished Omai with a convenient stage for his exhibition. +In the centre of this amphitheatre, the inconsiderable quantity of +gunpowder collected from his cartridges was properly disposed upon the +ground, and, by means of a bit of burning wood from the oven, where +dinner was dressing, set on fire. The sudden blast and loud report, the +mingled flame and smoke, that instantly succeeded, now filled the whole +assembly with astonishment. They no longer doubted the tremendous power +of our weapons, and gave full credit to all that Omai had said. + +If it had not been for the terrible ideas they conceived of the guns of +our ships, from this specimen of their mode of operation, it was thought +that they would have detained the gentlemen all night. For Omai assured +them, that if he and his companions did not return on board the same +day, they might expect that I would fire upon the island. And as we +stood in nearer the land in the evening, than we had done any time +before, of which position of the ships they were observed to take great +notice, they probably thought we were meditating this formidable attack, +and, therefore, suffered their guests to depart; under the expectation, +however, of seeing them again on shore next morning. But I was too +sensible of the risk they had already run, to think of a repetition of +the experiment. + +This day, it seems, was destined to give Omai more occasions than one of +being brought forward to bear a principal part in its transactions. The +island, though never before visited by Europeans, actually happened to +have other strangers residing in it; and it was entirely owing to Omai's +being one of Mr Gore's attendants, that this curious circumstance came +to our knowledge. + +Scarcely had he been landed upon the beach, when he found, amongst the +crowd there assembled, three of his own countrymen, natives of the +Society Islands. At the distance of about 200 leagues from those +islands, an immense, unknown ocean intervening, with such wretched +sea-boats as their inhabitants are known to make use of, and fit only +for a passage where sight of land is scarcely ever lost, such a meeting, +at such a place, so accidentally visited by us, may well be looked upon +as one of those unexpected situations with which the writers of feigned +adventures love to surprise their readers, and which, when they really +happen in common life, deserve to be recorded for their singularity. + +It may easily be guessed with what mutual surprise and satisfaction Omai +and his countrymen engaged in conversation. Their story, as related by +them, is an affecting one. About twenty persons in number, of both +sexes, had embarked on board a canoe at Otaheite, to cross over to the +neighbouring island Ulietea. A violent contrary wind arising, they could +neither reach the latter nor get back to the former. Their intended +passage being a very short one, their stock of provisions was scanty, +and soon exhausted. The hardships they suffered, while driven along by +the storm they knew not whither, are not to be conceived. They passed +many days without having any thing to eat or drink. Their numbers +gradually diminished, worn out by famine and fatigue. Four men only +survived when the canoe overset, and then the perdition of this small +remnant seemed inevitable. However, they kept hanging by the side of +their vessel during some of the last days, till Providence brought them +in sight of the people of this island, who immediately sent out canoes, +took them off their wreck, and brought them ashore. Of the four who were +thus saved, one was since dead. The other three, who lived to have this +opportunity of giving an account of their almost miraculous +transplantation, spoke highly of the kind treatment they here met with. +And so well satisfied were they with their situation, that they refused +the offer made to them by our gentlemen, at Omai's request, of giving +them a passage on board our ships, to restore them to their native +islands. The similarity of manners and language had more than +naturalized them to this spot; and the fresh connexions which they had +here formed, and which it would have been painful to have broken off +after such a length of time, sufficiently account for their declining to +revisit the places of their birth. They had arrived upon this island at +least twelve years ago. For I learnt from Mr Anderson, that he found +they knew nothing of Captain Wallis's visit to Otaheite in 1765, nor of +several other memorable occurrences, such as the conquest of Ulietea by +those of Bolabola, which had preceded the arrival of the Europeans. To +Mr Anderson I am also indebted for their names, Orououte, Otirreroa, and +Tavee; the first born at Matavai in Otaheite, the second at Ulietea, and +the third at Huaheine. + +The landing of our gentlemen on this island, though they failed in the +object of it, cannot but be considered as a very fortunate circumstance. +It has proved, as we have seen, the means of bringing to our knowledge a +matter of fact, not only very curious, but very instructive. The +application of the above narrative is obvious. It will serve to explain, +better than a thousand conjectures of speculative reasoners, how the +detached parts of the earth, and, in particular, how the islands of the +South Sea, may have been first peopled, especially those that lie remote +from any inhabited continent, or from each other.[154] + +[Footnote 154: Such accidents as this here related, probably happen +frequently in the Pacific Ocean. In 1696, two canoes, having on board +thirty persons of both sexes, were driven by contrary winds and +tempestuous weather on the isle of Samal, one of the Philippines, after +being tossed about at sea seventy days, and having performed a voyage +from an island called by them Arnorsot, 300 leagues to the E. of Samal. +Five of the number who had embarked died of the hardships suffered +during this extraordinary passage. See a particular account of them, and +of the islands they belonged to, in Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses, +tom. xv. from p. 196 to p. 215. In the same volume, from p. 282 to p. +320, we have the relation of a similar adventure in 1721, when two +canoes, one containing twenty-four, and the other six, persons, men, +women, and children, were driven from an island they called Farroilep, +northward to the Isle of Guam, or Guahan, one of the Ladrones or +Mariannes. But these had not sailed so far as their countrymen who +reached Samal, as above, and they had been at sea only twenty days. +There seems to be no reason to doubt the general authenticity of these +two relations. The information contained in the Letters of the Jesuits +about these islands, now known under the name of the Carolines, and +discovered to the Spaniards by the arrival of the canoes at Samal and +Guam, has been adopted by all our later writers. See President de +Brosse's Voyages aux Terres Australes, tom. ii. from p. 443 to p. 490. +See also the Modern Universal History.--D.] + +This island is called Wateeoo by the natives. It lies in the latitude of +20 deg. 1' S. and in the longitude 201 deg. 45' E., and is about six leagues in +circumference. It is a beautiful spot, with a surface composed of hills +and plains, and covered with verdure of many hues. Our gentlemen found +the soil, where they passed the day, to be light and sandy. But farther +up the country, a different sort perhaps prevails, as we saw from the +ship, by the help of our glasses, a reddish cast upon the rising +grounds. There the inhabitants have their houses; for we could perceive +two or three, which were long and spacious. Its produce, with the +addition of hogs, we found to be the same as at the last island we had +visited, which the people of this, to whom we pointed out its position, +called Owhavarouah, a name so different from Mangeea Nooe Nainaiwa, +which we learnt from its own inhabitants, that it is highly probably +Owhavarouah is another island. + +From the circumstances already mentioned, it appears that Wateeoo can be +of little use to any ship that wants refreshment, unless in a case of +the most absolute necessity. The natives, knowing now the value of some +of our commodities, might be induced to bring off fruits and hogs to a +ship standing off and on, or to boats lying off the reef, as ours did. +It is doubtful, however, if any fresh water could be procured; for, +though some was brought in cocoa-nut shells to the gentlemen, they were +told that it was at a considerable distance; and, probably, it is only +to be met with in some stagnant pool, as no running stream was any where +seen. + +According to Omai's report of what he learnt in conversation with his +three countrymen, the manners of these islanders, their method of +treating strangers, and their general habits of life, are much like +those that prevail at Otaheite, and its neighbouring isles. Their +religious ceremonies and opinions are also nearly the same. For, upon +seeing one man who was painted all over of a deep black colour, and +enquiring the reason, our gentlemen were told that he had lately been +paying the last good offices to a deceased friend; and they found, that +it was upon similar occasions the women cut themselves, as already +mentioned. From, every circumstance, indeed, it is indubitable, that the +natives of Wateeoo sprung originally from the same stock, which hath +spread itself so wonderfully all over the immense extent of the South +Sea. One would suppose, however, that they put in their claim to a more +illustrious extraction; for Omai assured us, that they dignified their +island with the appellation of _Wenooa no te Eatooa_, that is, A land of +gods; esteeming themselves a sort of divinities, and possessed with the +spirit of the Eatooa. This wild enthusiastic notion Omai seemed much to +approve of, telling us there were instances of its being entertained at +Otaheite, but that it was universally prevalent amongst the inhabitants +of Mataia, or Osnaburg Island. + +The language spoken at Wateeoo was equally well understood by Omai, and +by our two New Zealanders. What its peculiarities may be, when compared +with the other dialects, I am not able to point out; for, though Mr +Anderson had taken care to note down a specimen of it, the natives, who +made no distinction of the objects of their theft, stole the memorandum +book. + + +SECTION III. + +_Wenooa-ette, or Otokootaia, visited.--Account of that Island, and of +its Produce.--Hervey's Island, or Terougge mou Attooa, found to be +inhabited.--Transactions with the Natives,--Their Persons, Dress, +Language, Canoes.--Fruitless Attempt to land there.--Reasons for bearing +away for the Friendly Islands.--Palmerston's Island touched +at.--Description of the two Places where the Boats landed.--Refreshments +obtained there.--Conjectures on the Formation of such low +Islands.--Arrival at the Friendly Islands_. + + +Light airs and calms having prevailed, by turns, all the night of the 3d +of April, the easterly swell had carried the ships some distance from +Wateeoo before day-break. But as I had failed in my object of procuring +at that place some effectual supply, I saw no reason for staying there +any longer. I therefore quitted it, without regret, and steered, for the +neighbouring island, which, as has been mentioned, we discovered three +days before. + +With a gentle breeze at E. we got up with it before ten o'clock in the +morning, and I immediately dispatched Mr Gore, with two boats, to +endeavour to land, and get some food for our cattle. As there seemed to +be no inhabitants here to obstruct our taking away whatever we might +think proper, I was confident of his being able to make amends for our +late disappointment, if the landing could be effected. There was a reef +here surrounding the land as at Wateeoo, and a considerable surf +breaking against the rocks. Notwithstanding which, our boats no sooner +reached the lee, or west side of the island, but they ventured in, and +Mr Gore and his party got safe on shore. I could, from the ship, see +that they had succeeded so far, and I immediately sent a small boat to +know what farther assistance was wanting. She did not return till three +o'clock in the afternoon, having waited to take in a lading of what +useful produce the island afforded. As soon as she was cleared, she was +sent again for another cargo; the jolly boat was also dispatched, and Mr +Gore was ordered to be on board, with all the boats, before night, which +was complied with. + +The supply obtained here consisted of about a hundred cocoa nuts for +each ship; and, besides this refreshment for ourselves, we got for our +cattle some grass, and a quantity of the leaves and branches of young +cocoa-trees, and of the _wharra_-tree, as it is called at Otaheite, the +_pandanus_ of the East Indies. This latter being of a soft, spungy, +juicy nature, the cattle eat it very well when cut into small pieces; so +that it might be said, without any deviation from truth, that we fed +them upon billet wood. + +This island lies in the latitude of 19 deg. 51' S. and the longitude of 201 deg. +37' E, about three or four leagues from Wateeoo, the inhabitants of +which called it Otakootaia; and sometimes they spoke of it under the +appellation of Wenooa-ette, which signifies little island. Mr Anderson, +who was on shore with our party, and walked round it, guessed that it +could not be much more than three miles in circuit. From him I also +learned the following particulars: The beach, within the reef, is +composed of a white coral sand, above which the land within does not +rise above six or seven feet, and is covered with a light reddish soil, +but is entirely destitute of water. + +The only common trees found there were cocoa-palms, of which there were +several clusters, and vast numbers of the _wharra_. There was likewise +the _callophyllum, suriana, guettarda_, a species of _tournefortia_, and +_tabernae montanae_, with a few other shrubs, and some of the _etoa_ +tree seen at Wateeoo. A sort of bind-weed over-ran the vacant spaces, +except in some places, where was found a considerable quantity of +_treacle-mustard_, a species of _spurge_, with a few other small plants, +and the _morinda citrifolia_, the fruit of which is eaten by the natives +of Otaheite in times of scarcity. Omai, who had landed with the party, +dressed some of it for their dinner, but it proved very indifferent. + +The only bird seen amongst the trees was a beautiful cuckoo, of a +chesnut brown, variegated with black, which was shot. But upon the shore +were some egg-birds; a small sort of curlew; blue and white herons; and +a great number of noddies; which last, at this time, laid their eggs a +little farther up on the ground, and often rested on the wharra-tree. + +One of our people caught a lizard of a most forbidding aspect, though +small, running up a tree; and many of another sort were seen. The bushes +toward the sea were frequented by infinite cumbers of a sort of moth, +elegantly speckled with red, black, and white. There were also several +other sorts of moths, as well as some pretty butterflies, and a few +other insects. + +Though there were, at this time, no fixed inhabitants upon the island, +indubitable marks remained of its being at least occasionally +frequented. In particular, a few empty huts were found. There were also +several large stones erected, like monuments, under the shade of some +trees, and several spaces inclosed with smaller ones, where, probably, +the dead had been buried. And, in one place, a great many cockle-shells, +of a particular sort, finely grooved, and larger than the first, were to +be seen; from which it was reasonable to conjecture, that the island had +been visited by persons who feed partly on shell-fish. In one of the +huts Mr Gore left a hatchet and some nails, to the full value of what we +took away. + +As soon as the boats were hoisted in, I made sail again to the +northward, with a light air of wind easterly, intending to try our +fortune at Hervey's Island, which was discovered in 1773, during my last +voyage. Although it was not above fifteen leagues distant, yet we did +not get sight of it till day-break in the morning of the 6th, when it +bore W.S.W. at the distance of about three leagues. As we drew near it, +at eight o'clock, we observed several canoes put off from the shore, and +they came directly toward the ships. This was a sight that indeed +surprised me, as no signs of inhabitants were seen when the island was +first discovered; which might be owing to a pretty brisk wind that then +blew, and prevented their canoes venturing out as the ships passed to +leeward, whereas now we were to windward. + +As we still kept on toward the island, six or seven of the canoes, all +double ones, soon came near us. There were from three to six men in each +of them. They stopped at the distance of about a stone's throw from the +ship, and it was some time before Omai could prevail upon them to come +along-side; but no entreaties could induce any of them to venture on +board. Indeed, their disorderly and clamorous behaviour by no means +indicated a disposition to trust us, or treat us well. We afterward +learnt that they had attempted to take some oars out of the Discovery's +boat, that lay along-side, and struck a man who endeavoured to prevent +them. They also cut away, with a shell, a net with meat, which hung over +that ship's stern, and absolutely refused to restore it, though we +afterward purchased it from them. Those who were about our ship behaved +in the same daring manner; for they made a sort of hook of a long +stick, with which they endeavoured openly to rob us of several things, +and, at last, actually got a frock, belonging to one of our people that +was towing, overboard. At the same time they immediately shewed a +knowledge of bartering, and sold some fish they had (amongst which was +an extraordinary flounder, spotted like porphyry, and a cream-coloured +eel, spotted with black) for small nails, of which they were +immoderately fond, and called them _goore_. But, indeed, they caught +with the greatest avidity bits of paper, or any thing else that was +thrown to them; and if what was thrown fell into the sea, they made no +scruple to swim after it. + +These people seemed to differ as much in person as in disposition from +the natives of Wateeoo, though the distance between the two islands is +not very great. Their colour was of a deeper cast; and several had a +fierce, rugged aspect, resembling the natives of New Zealand, but some +were fairer. They had strong black hair, which, in general, they wore +either hanging loose about the shoulders, or tied in a bunch on the +crown of the head. Some, however, had it cropped pretty short; and in +two or three of them it was of a brown or reddish colour. Their only +covering was a narrow piece of mat, wrapt several times round the lower +part of the body, and which passed between the thighs; but a fine cap of +red feathers was seen lying in one of the canoes. The shell of a +pearl-oyster polished, and hung about the neck, was the only ornamental +fashion that we observed amongst them, for not one of them had adopted +that mode of ornament so generally prevalent amongst the natives of this +ocean, of puncturing, or _tatooing_, their bodies. + +Though singular in this, we had the most unequivocal proofs of their +being of the same common race. Their language approached still nearer to +the dialect of Otaheite than that of Wateeoo or Mangeea. Like the +inhabitants of these two islands, they enquired from whence our ships +came, and whither bound, who was our chief, the number of our men on +board, and even the ship's name. And they very readily answered such +questions as we proposed to them. Amongst other things, they told us +they had seen two great ships like ours before, but that they had not +spoken with them as they sailed past. There can be no doubt that these +were the Resolution and Adventure. We learnt from them, that the name +of their island is Terouggemon Atooa, and that they were subject to +Teerevatooeah, king of Wateeoo.[155] According to the account that they +gave, their articles of food are cocoa-nuts, fish, and turtle; the +island not producing plantains, or bread-fruit, and being destitute of +hogs and dogs. Their canoes, of which near thirty were, at one time, in +sight, are pretty large, and well built. In the construction of the +stern, they bear some resemblance to those of Wateeoo; and the head +projects out nearly in the same manner, but the extremity is turned up +instead of down. + +[Footnote 155: The reader will observe, that this name bears little +affinity to anyone of the names of the three chiefs of Wateeoo, as +preserved by Mr Anderson.--D.] + +Having but very little wind, it was one o'clock before we drew near the +N.W. part of the island, the only part where there seemed to be any +probability of finding anchorage for our ships, or a landing-place for +our boats. In this position I sent Lieutenant King, with two armed +boats, to sound and reconnoitre the coast, while we stood off and on +with the ships. The instant the boats were hoisted out, our visitors in +the canoes, who had remained alongside all the while, bartering their +little trifles, suspended their traffic, and, pushing for the shore as +fast as they could, came near us no more. + +At three o'clock the boats returned, and Mr King informed me, "That +there was no anchorage for the ships, and that the boats could only land +on the outer edge of the reef, which lay about a quarter of a mile from +the dry land. He said that a number of the natives came down upon the +reef, armed with long pikes and clubs, as if they intended to oppose his +landing. And yet, when he drew near enough, they threw some cocoa-nuts +to our people, and invited them to come on shore, though, at the very +same time, he observed that the women were very busy bringing down a +fresh supply of spears and darts. But, as he had no motive to land, he +did not give them an opportunity to use them." + +Having received this report, I considered, that, as the ships could not +be brought to an anchor, we should find that the attempt to procure +grass here would occasion much delay, as well as be attended with some +danger. Besides, we were equally in want of water; and though the +inhabitants had told us that there was water on their island, yet we +neither knew in what quantity, nor from what distance we might be +obliged to fetch it. And, after all, supposing no other obstruction, we +were sure, that to get over the reef would be an operation equally +difficult and tedious. + +Being thus disappointed at all the islands we had met with since our +leaving New Zealand, and the unfavourable winds, and other unforeseen +circumstances, having unavoidably retarded our progress so much, it was +now impossible to think of doing any thing this year in the high +latitudes of the northern hemisphere, from which we were still at so +great a distance, though the season for our operations there was already +begun. In this situation it was absolutely necessary to pursue such +measures as were most likely to preserve the cattle we had on board in +the first place; and, in the next place, (which was still a more capital +object,) to save the stores and provisions of the ships, that we might +be better enabled to prosecute our northern discoveries, which could not +now commence till a year later than was originally intended. + +If I had been so fortunate as to have procured a supply of water and of +grass at any of the islands we had lately visited, it was my purpose to +have stood back to the S. till I had met with a westerly wind. But the +certain consequence of doing this, without such a supply, would have +been the loss of all the cattle, before we could possibly reach +Otaheite, without gaining any one advantage with regard to the great +object of our voyage. + +I therefore determined to bear away for the Friendly Islands, where I +was sure of meeting with abundance of every thing I wanted; and it being +necessary to run in the night as well as in the day, I ordered Captain +Clerke to keep about a league a-head of the Resolution. I used this +precaution because his ship could best claw off the land; and it was +very possible we might fall in with some in our passage. + +The longitude of Hervey's Island, when first discovered, deduced from +Otaheite, by the time-keeper, was found to be 201 deg. 6' E., and now, by +the same time-keeper, deduced from Queen Charlotte's Sound, 200 deg. 56' E. +Hence I conclude, that the error of the time-keeper, at this time, did +not exceed twelve miles in longitude. + +When we bore away, I steered W. by S. with a fine breeze easterly. I +proposed to proceed first to Middleburgh, or Eooa, thinking, if the wind +continued favourable, that we had food enough on board for the cattle to +last till we should reach that island. But, about noon next day, those +faint breezes that had attended and retarded us so long, again returned; +and I found it necessary to haul more to the N. to get into the +latitude of Palmerston's and Savage Islands, discovered in 1774, during +my last voyage, that, if necessity required it, we might have recourse +to them. + +This day, in order to save our water, I ordered the still to be kept at +work from six o'clock in the morning to four in the afternoon, during +which time we procured from thirteen to sixteen gallons of fresh water. +There has been lately made some improvement, as they are pleased to call +it, of this machine, which, in my opinion, is much for the, worse. + +These light breezes continued till the 10th, when we had, for some +hours, the wind blowing fresh from the N. and N.N.W., being then in the +latitude of 18 deg. 38', and longitude 198 deg. 24' E. In the afternoon we had +some thunder squalls from the S. attended with heavy rain; of which +water we collected enough to fill five puncheons. After these squalls +had blown over, the wind came round to the N.E. and N.W., being very +unsettled both in strength and in position till about noon the next day, +when it fixed at N.W. and N.N.W. and blew a fresh breeze, with fair +weather. + +Thus were we persecuted with a wind in our teeth whichever way we +directed our course; and we had the additional mortification to find +here those very winds which we had reason to expect 8 deg. or 10 deg. farther S. +They came too late, for I durst not trust their continuance; and the +event proved that I judged right. + +At length, at day-break in the morning of the 13th, we saw Palmerston +Island, bearing W. by S. distant about five leagues. However, we did not +get up with it till eight o'clock the next morning. I then sent four +boats, three from the Resolution and one from the Discovery, with an +officer in each, to search the coast for the most convenient +landing-place. For now we were under an absolute necessity of procuring +from this island some food for the cattle, otherwise we must have lost +them. + +What is comprehended under the name of Palmerston's Island, is a group +of small islets, of which there are in the whole nine or ten, lying in a +circular direction, and connected together, by a reef of coral rocks. +The boats first examined the south-easternmost of the islets which +compose this group, and, failing there, ran down to the second, where we +had the satisfaction to see them land. I then bore down with the ships +till abreast of the place, and there we kept standing off and on; for no +bottom was to be found to anchor upon, which was not of much +consequence, as the party who had landed from our boats were the only +human beings upon the island. + +About one o'clock one of the boats came on board, laden with +scurvy-grass and young cocoa-nut trees, which, at this time, was a feast +for the cattle. The same boat brought a message from Mr Gore, who +commanded the party, informing me that there was plenty of such produce +upon the island, as also of the wharra tree, and some cocoa-nuts. This +determined me to get a good supply of these articles before I quitted +this station, and, before evening, I went ashore in a small boat, +accompanied by Captain Clerke. + +We found every body hard at work, and the landing place to be in a small +creek, formed by the reef, of something more than a boat's length in +every direction, and covered from the force of the sea by rocks +projecting out on each side of it. The island is scarcely a mile in +circuit, and not above three feet higher than the level of the sea. It +appeared to be composed entirely of a coral sand, with a small mixture +of blackish mould, produced from rotten vegetables. Notwithstanding this +poor soil, it is covered with trees and bushes of the same kind as at +Wanooa-ette, though with less variety; and amongst these are some cocoa +palms. Upon the trees or bushes that front the sea, or even farther in, +we found a great number of men-of-war birds, tropic birds, and two sorts +of boobies, which at this time were laying their eggs, and so tame, that +they suffered us to take them off with our hands. Their nests were only +a few sticks loosely put together; and the tropic birds laid their eggs +on the ground, under the trees. These differ much from the common sort, +being entirely of a most splendid white, slightly tinged with red, and +having the two long tail-feathers of a deep crimson or blood colour. Of +each sort our people killed a considerable number; and, though not the +most delicate food, they were acceptable enough to us who had been long +confined to a salt diet, and who, consequently, could not but be glad of +the most indifferent variety. We met with vast numbers of red crabs, +creeping about every where amongst the trees; and we caught several +fish that had been left in holes upon the reef when the sea retired. + +At one part of the reef, which looks into, or bounds, the lake that is +within, there was a large bed of coral, almost even with the surface, +which afforded, perhaps, one of the most enchanting prospects that +nature has any where produced. Its base was fixed to the shore, but +reached so far in that it could not be seen; so that it seemed to be +suspended in the water, which deepened so suddenly, that at the distance +of a few yards there might be seven or eight fathoms. The sea was at +this time quite unruffled; and the sun shining bright, exposed the +various sorts of coral in the most beautiful order; some parts branching +into the water with great luxuriance; others lying collected in round +balls, and in various other figures;--all which were greatly heightened +by spangles of the richest colours, that glowed from a number of large +clams, which were every where interspersed: But the appearance of these +was still inferior to that of the multitude of fishes that glided gently +along, seemingly with the most perfect security. The colours of the +different sorts were the most beautiful that can be imagined, the +yellow, blue, red, black, &c. far exceeding any thing that art can +produce. Their various forms, also, contributed to increase the richness +of this submarine grotto, which could not be surveyed without a pleasing +transport, mixed however with regret, that a work so stupendously +elegant should be concealed in a place where mankind could seldom have +an opportunity of rendering the praises justly due to so enchanting a +scene.[156] + +[Footnote 156: How beautifully does Captain Cook's description +illustrate those lines of Dr Young-- + + --Such blessings Nature pours, + O'erstock'd mankind enjoy but half her stores; + In distant wilds, by human eyes unseen, + + She rears her flowers, and spreads her velvet green: + Pure gurgling rills the lonely desert trace, + And waste their music on the savage race. + +Gray has a similar thought in His inimitable elegy, which every reader +will immediately recollect. Can it be imagined, that nature, which does +nothing in vain, nor indeed without a reference to the being who is +eminently signalized as lord of the lower creation, has been at pains to +decorate these spots, but in anticipation, if one may use the +expression, of the praise and enjoyment which their loveliness will some +time or other occasion? He that remembers the nature and formation of +the coral isles in the southern-ocean, will at once conjecture that the +Great Architect is raising up the materials of a new world, which, from +aught we can yet perceive, will not less indicate his power and goodness +than that which we now inhabit. How readily, then, can imagination +fashion out the future destiny of our globe, on the supposition that the +conflagration by which its presently inhabited portions are expected to +be destroyed, shall not be so complete as to annihilate it from the +universe! Or, believing what is usually understood, by that event, on +the authority of scripture, how clearly can reason deduce from present +appearances certain minor, but nevertheless immense, changes, which it +may undergo previous to this final dissolution! But the reader, it is +probable, will not chuse to venture on so terrific an excursion, and +there is a motive for caution with respect to it, with which it may not +be amiss to apprise the too zealous enquirer. The fact is, that none of +the causes which we know to be now operating on our globe, seem at all +adequate to account for all the changes it has already undergone. We +may, therefore, very fairly infer, that an indefinite allowance must be +granted to exterior interference of some sort or other, the agency of +which may altogether subvert whatever is now known to exist.--See +Cuvier's Essay, lately published at Edinburgh.--E.] + +There were no traces of inhabitants having ever been here, if we except +a small piece of a canoe that was found upon the beach, which, probably, +may have drifted from some other island. But, what is pretty +extraordinary, we saw several small brown rats on this spot, a +circumstance, perhaps, difficult to account for, unless we allow that +they were imported in the canoe of which we saw the remains. + +After the boats were laden I returned on board, leaving Mr Gore, with a +party, to pass the night on shore, in order to be ready to go to work +early the next morning. + +That day, being the 15th, was accordingly spent as the preceding one had +been, in collecting and bringing on board food for the cattle, +consisting chiefly of palm-cabbage, young cocoa-nut trees, and the +tender branches of the wharra tree. Having got a sufficient supply of +these by sun-set, I ordered every body on board. But having little or no +wind, I determined to wait, and to employ the next day by endeavouring +to get some cocoa-nuts for our people from the next island to leeward, +where we could observe that those trees were in much greater abundance +than upon that where we had already landed, and where only the wants of +our cattle had been relieved. + +With this view I kept standing off and on all night, and in the morning, +between eight and nine o'clock, I went with the boats to the W. side of +the island, and landed with little difficulty. I immediately set the +people with me to work to gather cocoa-nuts, which we found in great +abundance. But to get them to our boats was a tedious operation, for we +were obliged to carry them at least half a mile over the reef up to the +middle in water. Omai, who was with me, caught, with a scoop net, in a +very short time, as much fish as served the whole party on shore for +dinner, besides sending some to both ships. Here were also great +abundance of birds, particularly men-of-war and tropic birds, so that we +fared sumptuously. And it is but doing justice to Omai to say, that in +these excursions to the uninhabited islands he was of the greatest use; +for he not only caught the fish, but dressed these, and the birds we +killed, in an oven with heated stones, after the fashion of his country, +with a dexterity and good-humour that did him great credit. The boats +made two trips before night, well laden: With the last I returned on +board, leaving Mr Williamson, my third lieutenant, with a party of men, +to prepare another lading for the boats, which I proposed to send next +morning. + +I accordingly dispatched them at seven o'clock; and they returned laden +by noon. No time was lost in sending them back for another cargo; and +they carried orders for every body to be on board by sunset. This being +complied with, we hoisted in the boats and made sail to the westward, +with a light air of wind from the N. + +We found this islet near a half larger than the other, and almost +entirely covered with cocoa-palms, the greatest part of which abounded +with excellent nuts, having often both old and young on the same tree. +They were, indeed, too thick in many places to grow with freedom. The +other productions were, in general, the same as at the other islet. Two +pieces of board, one of which was rudely carved, with an elliptical +paddle, were found on the beach. Probably these had belonged to the same +canoe, the remains of which were seen on the other beach, as the two +islets are not above half a mile apart. A young turtle had also been +lately thrown ashore here; as it was still full of maggots. There were +fewer crabs than at the last place; but we found some scorpions, a few +other insects, and a greater number of fish upon the reefs. Amongst +these were some large eels, beautifully spotted, which, when followed, +would raise themselves out of the water, and endeavour with an open +mouth to bite their pursuers. The other sorts were chiefly parrot-fish, +snappers, and a brown spotted rock-fish, about the size of a haddock, so +tame, that instead of swimming away, it would remain fixed and gaze at +us. Had we been in absolute want, a sufficient supply might have been +had; for thousands of the clams, already mentioned, stuck upon the reef, +some of which weighed two or three pounds. There were, besides, some +other sorts of shell-fish, particularly the large periwinkle. When the +tide flowed several sharks came in over the reef, some of which our +people killed, but they rendered it rather dangerous to walk in the +water at that time. + +The party who were left on shore with Mr Williamson, were a good deal +pestered (as Mr Gore's had been) with musquitoes in the night. Some of +them, in their excursions, shot two curlews, exactly like those of +England, and saw some plovers, or sand-pipers, upon the shore; but in +the wood no other bird, besides one or two of the cuckoos that were seen +at Wenooa-ette. + +Upon the whole, we did not spend our time unprofitably at this last +islet, for we got there about twelve hundred cocoa-nuts, which were +equally divided amongst the whole crew, and were, doubtless, of great +use to them, both on account of the juice and of the kernel. A ship, +therefore, passing this way, if the weather be moderate, may expect to +succeed as we did. But there is no water upon either of the islets where +we landed. Were that article to be had, and a passage could be got into +the lake, as we may call it, surrounded by the reef, where a ship could +anchor, I should prefer this to any of the inhabited islands, if the +only want were refreshment. For the quantity of fish that might be +procured would be sufficient, and the people might roam about unmolested +by the petulance of any inhabitants. + +The nine or ten low islets, comprehended under the name of Palmerston's +Island, may be reckoned the heads or summits of the reef of coral rock +that connects them together, covered only with a thin coat of sand, yet +clothed, as already observed, with trees and plants, most of which are +of the same sorts that are found on the low grounds of the high islands +of this ocean. + +There are different opinions amongst ingenious theorists concerning the +formation of such low islands as Palmerston's. Some will have it, that +in remote times these little separate heads or islets were joined, and +formed one continued and more elevated tract of land, which the sea, in +the revolution of ages, has washed away, leaving only the higher +grounds; which, in time also, will, according to this theory, share the +same fate. Another conjecture is, that they have been thrown up by +earthquakes, and are the effect of internal convulsions of the globe. A +third opinion, and which appears to me as the most probable one, +maintains, that they are formed from shoals or coral banks, and, of +consequence, increasing. Without mentioning the several arguments made +use of in support of each of these systems, I shall only describe such +parts of Palmerston's Island as fell under my own observation when I +landed upon it. + +The foundation is every where a coral rock; the soil is coral sand, with +which the decayed vegetables have but in a few places intermixed, so as +to form any thing like mould. From this a very strong presumption may be +drawn, that these little spots of land are not of very ancient date, nor +the remains of larger islands now buried in the ocean; for, upon either +of these suppositions, more mould must have been formed, or some part of +the original soil would have remained. Another circumstance confirmed +this doctrine of the increase of these islets. We found upon them, far +beyond the present reach of the sea even in the most violent storms, +elevated coral rocks, which, on examination, appeared to have been +perforated in the same manner that the rocks are that now compose the +outer edge of the reef. This evidently shews that the sea had formerly +reached so far; and some of these perforated rocks were almost in the +centre of the land. + +But the strongest proof of the increase, and from the cause we have +assigned, was the gentle gradation observable in the plants round the +skirts of the islands; from within a few inches of high-water mark to +the edge of the wood. In many places, the divisions of the plants of +different growths were very distinguishable, especially on the lee or +west side. This I apprehend to have been the operation of extraordinary +high tides, occasioned by violent, accidental gales from the westward, +which have heaped up the sand beyond the reach of common tides. The +regular and gentle operation of these latter, again, throw up sand +enough to form a barrier against the next extraordinary high tide or +storm, so as to prevent its reaching as far as the former had done, and +destroying the plants that may have begun to vegetate from cocoa-nuts, +roots, and seed brought thither by birds, or thrown up by the sea. This, +doubtless, happens very frequently, for we found many cocoa-nuts, and +some other things, just sprouting up, only a few inches beyond where the +sea reaches at present, in places where it was evident they could not +have had their origin from those farther in, already arrived at their +full growth. At the same time, the increase of vegetables will add fast +to the height of this new-created land, as the fallen leaves and broken +branches are, in such a climate, soon converted into a true black mould +or soil.[157] + +[Footnote 157: Mr Anderson, in his journal, mentions the following +particulars relative to Palmerston's Island, which strongly confirm +Captain Cook's opinion about its formation. "On the last of the two +islets, where we landed, the trees, being in great numbers, had already +formed, by their rotten parts, little risings or eminences, which in +time, from the same cause, may become small hills. Whereas, on the first +islet, the trees being less numerous, no such thing had as yet happened. +Nevertheless, on that little spot the manner of formation was more +plainly pointed out; for, adjoining to it was a small isle, which had +doubtless been very lately formed, as it was not as yet covered with any +trees, but had a great many shrubs, some of which were growing among +pieces of coral that the sea had thrown up. There was still a more sure +proof of this method of formation a little farther on, where two patches +of sand, about fifty yards long, and a foot or eighteen inches high, lay +upon the reef, but not as yet furnished with a single bush or tree."--D. + +In a former volume we quoted a passage from Dr Forster's observations +respecting the formation of coral islands. Captain Flinders gives a +similar account in vol. ii. p. 114, of his voyage, drawn up from his own +observations on Half-way Island, on the north coast of Terra Australis. +It is too long for this place. The reader will find it transcribed, +together with Forster's, in the notes to the translation of Cuvier's +work, already referred to.--E.] + +Perhaps there is another cause, which, if allowed, will accelerate the +increase of these islands as much as any other, and will also account +for the sea having receded from those elevated rocks before mentioned. +This is the spreading of the coral bank, or reef, into the sea, which, +in my opinion, is continually, though imperceptibly, effected. The waves +receding, as the reef grows in breadth and height, leave a dry rock +behind, ready for the reception of the broken coral and sand, and every +other deposit necessary for the formation of land fit for the vegetation +of plants. + +In this manner, there is little doubt, that in time the whole reef will +become one island; and, I think, it will extend gradually inward, either +from the increase of the islets already formed, or from the formation of +new ones upon the beds of coral within the inclosed lake, if once they +increase so as to rise above the level of the sea. + +After leaving Palmerston's Island, I steered W., with a view to make the +best of my way to Annamooka. We still continued to have variable winds, +frequently between the N. and W., with squalls, some thunder, and much +rain. During these showers, which were generally very copious, we saved +a considerable quantity of water; and finding that we could get a +greater supply by the rain in one hour than we could get by distillation +in a month, I laid aside the still as a thing attended with more trouble +than profit. + +The heat, which had been great for about a month, became now much more +disagreeable in this close rainy weather; and, from the moisture +attending it, threatened soon to be noxious, as the ships could not be +kept dry, nor the skuttles open, for the sea. However, it is remarkable +enough, that though the only refreshment we had received since leaving +the Cape of Good Hope was that at New Zealand, there was not as yet a +single person on board sick from the constant use of salt food, or +vicissitude of climate. + +In the night between the 24th and 25th we passed Savage Island, which I +had discovered in 1774; and on the 28th, at ten o'clock in the morning, +we got sight of the islands which lie to the eastward of Annamooka, +bearing N. by W. about four or five leagues distant. I steered to the S. +of these islands, and then hauled up for Annamooka, which, at four in +the afternoon, bore N.W. by N., Fallafajeea S.W. by S., and Komango N. +by W., distant about five miles. The weather being squally, with rain, I +anchored, at the approach of night, in fifteen fathoms deep water, over +a bottom of coral-sand and shells, Komango bearing N.W. about two +leagues distant. + + +SECTION IV. + +_Intercourse with the Natives of Komango, and other Islands.--Arrival at +Annamooka.--Transactions there.--Feenou, a principal Chief, from +Tongataboo, comes on a Visit.--The Manner of his Reception in the +Island, and on board.--Instances of the pilfering Disposition of the +Natives.--Some Account of Annamooka.--The Passage from it to Hapaee_. + + +Soon after we had anchored, (April 28) two canoes, the one with four, +and the other with three men, paddled toward us, and came alongside +without the least hesitation. They brought some cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, +plantains, and sugar-cane, which they bartered with us for nails. One of +the men came on board; and when these canoes had left us, another +visited us; but did not stay long, as night was approaching. Komango, +the island nearest to us, was, at least, five miles off; which shews the +hazard these people would run, in order to possess a few of our most +trifling articles. Besides this supply from the shore, we caught, this +evening, with hooks and lines, a considerable quantity of fish. + +Next morning, at four o'clock, I sent Lieutenant King, with two boats, +to Komango, to procure refreshments; and, at five, made the signal to +weigh, in order to ply up to Annamooka, the wind being unfavourable at +N.W. + +It was no sooner day-light, than we were visited by six or seven canoes +from different islands, bringing with them, besides fruits and roots, +two pigs, several fowls, some large wood-pigeons, small rails, and large +violet-coloured coots. All these they exchanged with us for beads, +nails, hatchets, &c. They had also other articles of commerce; such as +pieces of their cloth, fish-hooks, small baskets, musical reeds, and +some clubs, spears, and bows. But I ordered, that no curiosities should +be purchased, till the ships should be supplied with provisions, and +leave given for that purpose. Knowing also, from experience, that, if +all our people might trade with the natives, according to their own +caprice, perpetual quarrels would ensue, I ordered that particular +persons should manage the traffic both on board and on shore, +prohibiting all others to interfere. Before mid-day, Mr King's boat +returned with seven hogs, some fowls, a quantity of fruit and roots for +ourselves, and some grass for the cattle. His party was very civilly +treated at Komango. The inhabitants did not seem to be numerous; and +their huts, which stood close to each other, within a plantain wall, +were but indifferent. Not far from them was a pretty large pond of fresh +water, tolerably good; but there was not any appearance of a stream. +With Mr King, came on board the chief of the island, named +Touboulangee; and another, whose name was Taipa. They brought with them +a hog, as a present to me, and promised more the next day. + +As soon as the boats were aboard, I stood for Annamooka; and the wind +being scant, I intended to go between Annamooka-ette,[158] and the +breakers to the S.E. of it. But, on drawing near, we met with very +irregular soundings, varying, every cast, ten or twelve fathoms. This +obliged me to give up the design, and to go to the southward of all; +which carried us to leeward, and made it necessary to spend the night +under sail. It was very dark; and we had the wind, from every direction, +accompanied with heavy showers of rain. So that, at day-light the next +morning, we found ourselves much farther off than we had been the +evening before; and the little wind that now blew, was right in our +teeth. + +[Footnote 158: That is, Little Annamooka.] + +We continued to ply, all day, to very little purpose; and, in the +evening, anchored in thirty-nine fathoms water; the bottom coral rocks, +and broken shells; the west point of Annamooka bearing E.N.E., four +miles distant. Touboulangee and Taipa kept their promise, and brought +off to me some hogs. Several others were also procured by bartering, +from different canoes that followed us; and as much fruit as we could +well manage. It was remarkable, that, during the whole day, our visitors +from the islands would hardly part with any of their commodities to any +body but me. Captain Clerke did not get above one or two hogs. + +At four o'clock next morning, I ordered a boat to be hoisted out, and +sent the master to sound the S.W. side of Annamooka; where there +appeared to be a harbour, formed by the island on the N.E., and by small +islets, and shoals, to the S.W. and S.E. In the mean time, the ships +were got under sail, and wrought up to the island. When the master +returned, he reported, that he had sounded between Great and Little +Annamooka, where he found ten and twelve fathoms depth of water, the +bottom coral sand; that the place was very well sheltered from all +winds; but that there was no fresh water to be found, except at some +distance inland; and that, even there, little of it was to be got, and +that little not good. For this reason only, and it was a very +sufficient one, I determined to anchor on the north side of the island, +where, during my last voyage, I had found a place fit both for watering +and landing. + +It was not above a league distant; and yet we did not reach it till five +o'clock in the afternoon, being considerably retarded by the great +number of canoes that continually crowded round the ships, bringing to +us abundant supplies of the produce of their island. Amongst these +canoes there were some double ones, with a large sail, that carried +between forty and fifty men each. These sailed round us, apparently, +with the same ease as if we had been at anchor. There were several women +in the canoes, who were, perhaps, incited by curiosity to visit us; +though, at the same time, they bartered as eagerly as the men, and used +the paddle with equal labour and dexterity; I came to an anchor in +eighteen fathoms water, the bottom coarse coral sand; the island +extending from E. to S.W.; and the W. point of the westernmost cove +S.E., about three quarters of a mile distant. Thus I resumed the very +same station which I had occupied when I visited Annamooka three years +before; and, probably, almost in the same place where Tasman, the first +discoverer of this, and some of the neighbouring islands, anchored in +1643. + +The following day, while preparations were making for watering, I went +ashore, in the forenoon, accompanied by Captain Clerke, and some of the +officers, to fix on a place where the observatories might be set up, and +a guard be stationed; the natives having readily given us leave. They +also accommodated us with a boat-house, to serve as a tent, and shewed +us every other mark of civility. Toobou, the chief of the island, +conducted me and Omai to his house. We found it situated on a pleasant +spot, in the centre of his plantation. A fine grass-plot surrounded it, +which, he gave us to understand, was for the purpose of cleaning their +feet, before they went within doors. I had not, before, observed such an +instance of attention to cleanliness at any of the places I had visited +in this ocean; but, afterward, found that it was very common at the +Friendly Islands. The floor of Toobou's house was covered with mats; and +no carpet, in the most elegant English drawing-room, could be kept +neater. While we were on shore, we procured a few hogs, and some fruit, +by bartering; and, before we got on board again, the ships were crowded +with the natives. Few of them coming empty-handed, every necessary +refreshment was now in the greatest plenty. + +I landed again in the afternoon, with a party of marines; and, at the +same time, the horses, and such of the cattle as were in a weakly state, +were sent on shore. Every thing being settled to my satisfaction, I +returned to the ship at sunset, leaving the command upon the island to +Mr King. Taipa, who was now become our fast friend, and who seemed to be +the only active person about us, in order to be near our party in the +night, as well as the day, had a house brought, on men's shoulders, a +full quarter of a mile, and placed close to the shed which our party +occupied. + +Next day, our various operations on shore began. Some were employed in +making hay for the cattle; others in filling our water-casks at the +neighbouring stagnant pool; and a third party in cutting wood. The +greatest plenty of this last article being abreast of the ships, and in +a situation the most convenient for getting it on board, it was natural +to make choice of this. But the trees here, which our people erroneously +supposed to be manchineel, but were a species of pepper, called +_faitanoo_ by the natives, yielded a juice of a milky colour, of so +corrosive a nature, that it raised blisters on the skin, and injured the +eyes of our workmen. They were, therefore, obliged to desist at this +place, and remove to the cove, in which our guard was stationed, and +where we embarked our water. Other wood, more suitable to our purposes, +was there furnished to us by the natives. These were not the only +employments we were engaged in, for Messrs King and Bayly began, this +day, to observe equal altitudes of the sun, in order to get the rate of +the timekeepers. In the evening, before the natives retired from our +post, Taipa harangued them for some time. We could only guess at the +subject; and judged, that he was instructing them how to behave toward +us, and encouraging them to bring the produce of the island to market. +We experienced the good effects of his eloquence, in the plentiful +supply of provisions which, next day, we received. + +Nothing worth notice happened on the 4th and 5th, except that, on the +former of these days, the Discovery lost her small bower-anchor, the +cable being cut in two by the rocks. This misfortune made it necessary +to examine the cables of the Resolution, which were found to be unhurt. + +On the 6th, we were visited by a great chief from Tongataboo, whose +name was Feenou, and whom Taipa was pleased to introduce to us as King +of all the Friendly Isles. I was now told, that, on my arrival, a canoe +had been dispatched to Tongataboo with the news; in consequence of +which, this chief immediately passed over to Annamooka. The officer on +shore informed me, that when he first arrived, all the natives were +ordered out to meet him, and paid their obeisance by bowing their heads +as low as his feet, the soles of which they also touched with each hand, +first with the palm, and then with the back part. There could be little +room to suspect that a person, received with so much respect, could be +any thing less than the king. + +In the afternoon, I went to pay this great man a visit, having first +received a present of two fish from him, brought on board by one of his +servants. As soon as I landed, he came up to me. He appeared to be about +thirty years of age, tall, but thin, and had more of the European +features, than any I had yet seen here. When the first salutation was +over, I asked if he was the king. For, notwithstanding what I had been +told, finding he was not the man whom I remembered to have seen under +that character during my former voyage, I began to entertain doubts. +Taipa officially answered for him, and enumerated no less than one +hundred and fifty-three islands, of which, he said, Feenou was the +sovereign. After a short stay, our new visitor, and five, or six of his +attendants, accompanied me on board. I gave suitable presents to them +all, and entertained them in such a manner, as I thought would be most +agreeable. + +In the evening, I attended them on shore in my boat, into which the +chief ordered three hogs to be put, as a return for the presents he had +received from me. I was now informed of an accident which had just +happened, the relation of which will convey some idea of the extent of +the authority exercised here over the common people. While Feenou was on +board my ship, an inferior chief, for what reason our people on shore +did not know, ordered all the natives to retire from the post we +occupied. Some of them having ventured to return, he took up a large +stick, and beat them most unmercifully. He struck one man on the side of +the face, with so much violence, that the blood gushed out of his mouth +and nostrils; and, after lying some time motionless, he was, at last, +removed from the place, in convulsions. The person who had inflicted the +blow, being told that he had killed the man, only laughed at it; and, it +was evident, that he was not in the least sorry for what had happened. +We heard, afterward, that the poor sufferer recovered. + +The Discovery having found again her small bower anchor, shifted her +birth on the 7th; but not before her best bower cable had shared the +fate of the other. This day I had the company of Feenou at dinner; and +also the next day, when he was attended by Taipa, Toubou, and some other +chiefs. It was remarkable, that none but Taipa was allowed to sit at +table with him, or even to eat in his presence. I own that I considered +Feenou as a very convenient guest, on account of this etiquette. For, +before his arrival, I had, generally, a larger company than I could well +find room for, and my table overflowed with crowds of both sexes. For it +is not the custom at the Friendly Islands, as it is at Otaheite, to deny +to their females the privilege of eating in company with the men. + +The first day of our arrival at Annamooka, one of the natives had +stolen, out of the ship, a large junk axe. I now applied to Feenou to +exert his authority to get it restored to me; and so implicitly was he +obeyed, that it was brought on board while we were at dinner. These +people gave us very frequent opportunities of remarking what expert +thieves they were. Even some of their chiefs did not think this +profession beneath them. On the 9th, one of them was detected carrying +out of the ship, concealed under his clothes, the bolt belonging to the +spun-yarn winch; for which I sentenced him to receive a dozen lashes, +and kept him confined till he paid a hog for his liberty. After this, we +were not troubled with thieves of rank. Their servants, or slaves, +however, were still employed in this dirty work; and upon them a +flogging seemed to make no greater impression, than it would have done +upon the main-mast. When any of them happened to be caught in the act, +their masters, far from interceding for them, would often advise us to +kill them. As this was a punishment we did not choose to inflict, they +generally escaped without any punishment at all; for they appeared to us +to be equally insensible of the shame and of the pain of corporal +chastisement. Captain Clerke, at last, hit upon a mode of treatment, +which, we thought, had some effect. He put them under the hands of the +barber, and completely shaved their heads; thus pointing them out as +objects of ridicule to their countrymen, and enabling our people to +deprive them of future opportunities for a repetition of their +rogueries, by keeping them at a distance. + +Feenou was so fond of associating with us, that he dined on board every +day; though, sometimes, he did not partake of our fare. On the 10th, +some of his servants brought a mess, which had been dressed for him on +shore. It consisted of fish, soup, and yams. Instead of common water to +make the soup, cocoa-nut liquor had been made use of, in which the fish +had been boiled or stewed; probably in a wooden vessel, with hot stones; +but it was carried on board in a plantain leaf. I tasted of the mess, +and found it so good, that I, afterward, had some fish dressed in the +same way. Though my cook succeeded tolerably well, he could produce +nothing equal to the dish he imitated. + +Finding that we had quite exhausted the island of almost every article +of food that it afforded, I employed the 11th in moving off, from the +shore, the horses, observatories, and other things that we had landed, +as also the party of marines who had mounted guard at our station, +intending to sail, as soon as the Discovery should have recovered her +best bow anchor. Feenou, understanding that I meant to proceed directly +to Tongataboo, importuned me strongly to alter this plan, to which he +expressed as much aversion, as if he had some particular interest to +promote by diverting me from it. In preference to it, he warmly +recommended an island, or rather a group of islands, called Hepaee, +lying to the N.E. There, he assured us, we could be supplied plentifully +with every refreshment, in the easiest manner; and, to add weight to his +advice, he engaged to attend us thither in person. He carried his point +with me; and Hepaee was made choice of for our next station. As it had +never been visited by any European ships, the examination of it became +an object with me. + +The 12th and the 13th were spent in attempting the recovery of Captain +Clerke's anchor, which, after much trouble, was happily accomplished; +and on the 14th, in the morning, we got under sail, and left Annamooka. + +This island is somewhat higher than the other small isles that surround +it; but, still, it cannot be admitted to the rank of those of a moderate +height, such as Mangeea and Wateeoo. The shore, at that part where our +ships lay, is composed of a steep, rugged, coral rock, nine or ten feet +high, except where there are two sandy beaches, which have a reef of the +same sort of rock extending cross their entrance to the shore, and +defending them from the sea. The salt-water lake that is in the centre +of the island, is about a mile and a half broad; and round it the land +rises like a bank, with a gradual ascent. But we could not trace its +having any communication with the sea. And yet, the land that runs +across to it, from the largest sandy beach, being flat and low, and the +soil sandy, it is most likely that it may have, formerly, communicated +that way. The soil on the rising parts of the island, and especially +toward the sea, is either of a reddish clayey disposition, or a black, +loose mould; but there is, no where, any stream of fresh water. + +The island is very well cultivated, except in a few places; and there +are some others, which, though they appear to lie waste, are only left +to recover the strength exhausted by constant culture; for we frequently +saw the natives at work upon these spots, to plant them again. The +plantations consist chiefly of yams and plantains. Many of them are very +extensive, and often inclosed with neat fences of reed, disposed +obliquely across each other, about six feet high. Within these we often +saw other fences of less compass, surrounding the houses of the +principal people. The breadfruit, and cocoa-nut trees, are interspersed +with little order, but chiefly near the habitations of the natives; and +the other parts of the island, especially toward the sea, and about the +sides of the lake, are covered with trees and bushes of a most luxuriant +growth; the last place having a great many mangroves, and the first a +vast number of the _faitanoo_ trees already mentioned. There seem to be +no rocks or stones, of any kind, about the island, that are not coral, +except in one place, to the right of the sandy beach, where there is a +rock twenty or thirty feet high, of a calcareous stone, of a yellowish +colour, and a very close texture. But even about that place, which is +the highest part of the land, are large pieces of the same coral rock +that composes the shore. + +Besides walking frequently up into the country, which we were permitted +to do without interruption, we sometimes amused ourselves in shooting +wild-ducks, not unlike the widgeon, which are very numerous upon the +salt lake, and the pool where we got our water. In these excursions, we +found the inhabitants had often deserted their houses to come down to +the trading place, without entertaining any suspicion, that strangers, +rambling about, would take away, or destroy, any thing that belonged to +them. But though, from this circumstance, it might be supposed that the +greater part of the natives were sometimes collected at the beach, it +was impossible to form any accurate computation of their number; as the +continual resort of visitors from other islands, mixing with them, might +easily mislead one. However, as there was never, to appearance, above a +thousand persons collected at one time, it would, perhaps, be sufficient +to allow double that number for the whole island. + +To the N. and N.E. of Annamooka, and in the direct track to Hepaee, +whither we were now bound, the sea is sprinkled with a great number of +small isles. Amidst the shoals and rocks adjoining to this group, I +could not be assured that there was a free or safe passage for such +large ships as ours, though the natives sailed through the intervals in +their canoes. For this substantial reason, when we weighed anchor from +Annamooka, I thought it necessary to go to the westward of the above +islands, and steered N.N.W., toward Kao[159] and Toofoa, the two most +westerly islands in sight, and remarkable for their great height. +Feenou, and his attendants, remained on board the Resolution till near +noon, when he went into the large sailing canoe, which had brought him +from Tongataboo, and stood in amongst the cluster of islands above +mentioned, of which we were now almost abreast; and a tide or current +from the westward had set us, since our sailing in the morning, much +over toward them. + +[Footnote 159: As a proof of the great difficulty of knowing accurately +the exact names of the South Sea Islands, as procured from the natives, +I observe that what Captain Cook calls _Aghao_, Mr Anderson calls _Kao_; +and Tasman's drawing, as I find it in Mr Dalrymple's Collection of +Voyages, gives the name of _Kayhay_ to the same island. Tasman's and +Captain Cook's _Amattafoa_, is, with Mr Anderson, _Tofoa_. Captain +Cook's _Komango_, is Tasman's _Amango_. There is scarcely an instance, +in which such variations are not observable. Mr Anderson's great +attention to matters of this sort being, as we learn from Captain King, +well known to every body on board, and admitted always by Captain Cook +himself, his mode of spelling has been adopted.--D.] + +They lie scattered, at unequal distances, and are, in general, nearly as +high as Annamooka; but only from two or three miles, to half a mile in +length, and some of them scarcely so much. They have either steep rocky +shores like Annamooka, or reddish cliffs; but some have sandy beaches +extending almost their whole length. Most of them are entirely clothed +with trees, amongst which are many cocoa palms, and each forms a +prospect like a beautiful garden placed in the sea. To heighten this, +the serene weather we now had contributed very much; and the whole might +supply the imagination with an idea of some fairy land realized. It +should seem, that some of them, at least, may have been formed, as we +supposed Palmerston's Island to have been; for there is one, which, as +yet, is entirely sand, and another, on which there is only one bush, or +tree. + +At four o'clock in the afternoon, being the length of Kotoo, the +westernmost of the above cluster of small islands, we steered to the +north, leaving Toofoa and Kao on our larboard, keeping along the west +side of a reef of rocks, which lie to the westward of Kotoo, till we +came to their northern extremity, round which we hauled in for the +island. It was our intention to have anchored for the night; but it came +upon us before we could find a place in less than fifty-five fathoms +water; and rather than come-to in this depth, I chose to spend the night +under sail. + +We had, in the afternoon, been within two leagues of Toofoa, the smoke +of which we saw several times in the day. The Friendly Islanders have +some superstitious notions about the volcano upon it, which they call +_Kollofeea_, and say it is an _Otooa_, or divinity. According to their +account, it sometimes throws up very large stones; and they compare the +_crater_ to the size of a small islet, which has never ceased smoking in +their memory; nor have they any tradition that it ever did. We sometimes +saw the smoke rising from the centre of the island, while we were at +Annamooka, though at the distance of at least ten leagues. Toofoa, we +were told, is but thinly inhabited, but the water upon it is good. + +At day-break the next morning, being then not far from Kao, which is a +vast rock of a conic figure, we steered to the east, for the passage +between the islands Footooha and Hafaiva, with a gentle breeze at S.E. +About ten o'clock, Feenou came on board, and remained with us all day. +He brought with him two hogs, and a quantity of fruit; and, in the +course of the day, several canoes, from the different islands round us, +came to barter quantities of the latter article, which was very +acceptable, as our stock was nearly expended. At noon, our latitude was +19 deg. 49' 45" S., and we had made seven miles of longitude from Annamooka; +Toofoa bore N., 88 deg. W.; Kao N., 71 deg. W.; Footooha N., 89 deg. W.; and Hafaiva +S. 12 deg. W. + +After passing Footooha, we met with a reef of rocks; and, as there was +but little wind, it cost us some trouble to keep clear of them. This +reef lies between Footooha and Neeneeva, which is a small low isle, in +the direction of E.N.E. from Footooha, at the distance of seven or eight +miles. Footooha is a small island, of middling height, and bounded all +round by a steep rock. It lies S. 67 deg. E., distant six leagues from Kao, +and three leagues from Kotoo, in the direction of N. 33 deg. E. Being past +the reef of rocks just mentioned, we hauled up for Neeneeva, in hopes of +finding anchorage; but were again disappointed, and obliged to spend the +night, making short boards. For, although we had land in every +direction, the sea was unfathomable. + +In the course of this night, we could plainly see flames issuing from +the volcano upon Toofoa, though to no great height. + +At day-break in the morning of the 16th, with a gentle breeze at S.E., +we steered N.E. for Hepaee, which was now in sight; and we could judge +it to be low land, from the trees only appearing above the water. About +nine o'clock we could see it plainly forming three islands, nearly of an +equal size; and soon after, a fourth to the southward of these, as large +as the others. Each seemed to be about six or seven miles long, and of a +similar height and appearance. The northernmost of them is called +Haanno, the next Foa, the third Lefooga, and the southernmost Hoolaiva; +but all four are included, by the natives, under the general name +Hepaee. + +The wind scanting upon us, we could not fetch the land, so that we were +forced to ply to windward. In doing this, we once passed over some coral +rocks, on which we had only six fathoms water; but the moment we were +over them, found no ground with eighty-fathoms of line. At this time, +the isles of Hepaee bore, from N., 50 deg. E., to S., 9 W. We got up with +the northernmost of these isles by sunset; and there found ourselves in +the very same distress, for want of anchorage, that we had experienced +the two preceding evenings; so that we had another night to spend under +sail, with land and breakers in every direction. Toward the evening, +Feenou, who had been on board all day, went forward to Hepaee, and took +Omai in the canoe with him. He did not forget our disagreeable +situation; and kept up a good fire, all night, by way of a land-mark. + +As soon as the day-light returned, being then close in with Foa, we saw +it was joined to Haanno, by a reef running even with the surface of the +sea, from the one island to the other. I now dispatched a boat to look +for anchorage. A proper place was soon found; and we came-to, abreast of +a reef, being that which joins Lefooga to Foa (in the same manner that +Foa is joined to Haanno), having twenty-four fathoms depth of water; the +bottom coral sand. In this station, the northern point of Hepaee, or +the north end of Haanno, bore N., 16 deg. E. The southern point of Hepaee, +or the south end of Hoolaiva, S., 29 deg. W.; and the north end of Lefooga, +S., 65 deg. E. Two ledges of rocks lay without us; the one bearing S., 50 deg. +W.; and the other W. by N. 1/2 N., distant two or three miles. We lay +before a creek in the reef, which made it convenient landing at all +times; and we were not above three quarters of a mile from the shore. + + +SECTION V. + +_Arrival of the Ships at Hepaee, and friendly Reception there.--Presents +and Solemnities on the Occasion.--Single Combats with Clubs.--Wrestling +and Boxing Matches.--Female Combatants.--Marines exercised.--A Dance +performed by Men.--Fireworks exhibited.--The Night-entertainments of +Singing and Dancing particularly described_. + + +By the time we had anchored, (May 17) the ships were filled with the +natives, and surrounded by a multitude of canoes, filled also with them. +They brought from the shore, hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, which they +exchanged for hatchets, knives, nails, beads, and cloth. Feenou and Omai +having come on board, after it was light, in order to introduce me to +the people of the island, I soon accompanied them on shore, for that +purpose, landing at the north part of Lefooga, a little to the right of +the ship's station. + +The chief conducted me to a house, or rather a hut, situated close to +the sea-beach, which I had seen brought thither, but a few minutes +before, for our reception. In this, Feenou, Omai, and myself, were +seated. The other chiefs, and the multitude, composed a circle, on the +outside, fronting us; and they also sat down. I was then asked, How long +I intended to stay? On my saying, Five days, Taipa was ordered to come +and sit by me, and proclaim this to the people. He then harangued them, +in a speech mostly dictated by Feenou. The purport of it, as I learnt +from Omai, was, that they were all, both old and young, to look upon me +as a friend, who intended to remain with them a few days; that, during +my stay, they must not steal any thing, nor molest me any other way; and +that it was expected, they should bring hogs, fowls, fruit, &c. to the +ships, where they would receive, in exchange for them, such and such +things, which he enumerated. Soon after Taipa had finished this address +to the assembly, Feenou left us. Taipa then took occasion to signify to +me, that it was necessary I should make a present to the chief of the +island, whose name was Earoupa. I was not unprepared for this, and gave +him such articles as far exceeded his expectation. My liberality to him +brought upon me demands, of the same kind, from two chiefs of other +isles who were present; and from Taipa himself. When Feenou returned, +which was immediately after I had made the last of these presents, he +pretended to be angry with Taipa for suffering me to give away so much; +but I looked upon this as a mere finesse; being confident that he acted +in concert with the others. He now took his seat again, and ordered +Earoupa to sit by him, and to harangue the people as Taipa had done, and +to the same purpose; dictating, as before, the heads of the speech. + +These ceremonies being performed, the chief, at my request, conducted me +to three stagnant pools of fresh water, as he was pleased to call it: +And, indeed, in one of these the water was tolerable, and the situation +not inconvenient for filling our casks. After viewing the +watering-place, we returned to our former station, where I found a baked +hog, and some yams, smoking hot, ready to be carried on board for my +dinner. I invited Feenou, and his friends, to partake of it; and we +embarked for the ship; but none but himself sat down with us at the +table. After dinner I conducted them on shore; and, before I returned on +board, the chief gave me a fine large turtle, and a quantity of yams. +Our supply of provisions was copious; for, in the course of the day, we +got, by barter, alongside the ship, about twenty small hogs, beside +fruit and roots. I was told, that on my first landing in the morning, a +man came off to the ships, and ordered every one of the natives to go on +shore. Probably this was done with a view to have the whole body of +inhabitants present at the ceremony of my reception; for when that was +over, multitudes of them returned again to the ships. + +Next morning early, Feenou, and Omai, who scarcely ever quitted the +chief, and now slept on shore, came on board. The object of the visit +was to require my presence upon the island. After some time, I +accompanied them; and, upon landing, was conducted to the same place +where I had been seated the day before; and where I saw a large +concourse of people already assembled. I guessed that something more +than ordinary was in agitation; but could not tell what, nor could Omai +inform me. + +I had not been long seated, before near a hundred of the natives +appeared in sight, and advanced, laden with yams, bread-fruit, +plantains, cocoa-nuts, and sugar-canes. They deposited their burdens, in +two heaps, or piles, upon our left, being the side they came from. Soon +after, arrived a number of others from the right, bearing the same kind +of articles, which were collected into two piles upon that side. To +these were tied two pigs, and six fowls; and to those upon the left, six +pigs, and two turtles. Earoupa seated himself before the several +articles upon the left; and another chief before those upon the right; +they being, as I judged, the two chiefs who had collected them, by order +of Feenou, who seemed to be as implicitly obeyed here, as he had been at +Annamooka; and, in consequence of his commanding superiority over the +chiefs of Hepaee, had laid this tax upon them for the present occasion. + +As soon as this munificent collection of provisions was laid down in +order, and disposed to the best advantage, the bearers of it joined the +multitude, who formed a large circle round the whole. Presently after, a +number of men entered this circle, or area, before us, armed with clubs, +made of the green branches of the cocoa-nut tree. These paraded about +for a few minutes, and then retired; the one half to one side, and the +other half to the other side; seating themselves before the spectators. +Soon after, they successively entered the lists, and entertained us with +single combats. One champion, rising up and stepping forward from one +side, challenged those of the other side, by expressive gestures, more +than by words, to send one of their body to oppose him. If the challenge +was accepted, which was generally the case, the two combatants put +themselves in proper attitudes, and then began the engagement, which +continued till one or other owned himself conquered, or till their +weapons were broken. As soon as each combat was over, the victor +squatted himself down facing the chief, then rose up, and retired. At +the same time, some old men, who seemed to sit as judges, gave their +plaudit in a few words; and the multitude, especially those on the side +to which the victor belonged, celebrated the glory he had acquired in +two or three huzzas. + +This entertainment was, now and then, suspended for a few minutes. +During these intervals there were both wrestling and boxing matches. The +first were performed in the same manner as at Otaheite; and the second +differed very little from the method practised in England. But what +struck us with most surprise, was, to see a couple of lusty wenches step +forth, and begin boxing; without the least ceremony, and with as much +art as the men. This contest, however, did not last above half a minute, +before one of them gave it up. The conquering heroine received the same +applause from the spectators which they bestowed upon the successful +combatants of the other sex. We expressed some dislike at this part of +the entertainment; which, however, did not prevent two other females +from entering the lists. They seemed to be girls of spirit, and would +certainly have given each other a good drubbing, if two old women had +not interposed to part them. All these combats were exhibited in the +midst of, at least, three thousand people, and were conducted with the +greatest good humour on all sides; though some of the champions, women +as well as men, received blows, which, doubtless, they must have felt +for some time after. + +As soon as these diversions were ended, the chief told me, that the +heaps of provisions on our right hand were a present to Omai; and that +those on our left hand, being about two-thirds of the whole quantity, +were given to me. He added, that I might take them on board whenever it +was convenient; but that there would be no occasion to set any of our +people as guards over them, as I might be assured, that not a single +cocoa-nut would be taken away by the natives. So it proved; for I left +every thing behind, and returned to the ship to dinner, carrying the +chief with me; and when the provisions were removed on board, in the +afternoon, not a single article was missing. There was as much as loaded +four boats; and I could not but be struck with the munificence of +Feenou; for this present far exceeded any I had ever received from any +of the sovereigns of the various islands I had visited in the Pacific +Ocean. I lost no time in convincing my friend, that I was not insensible +of his liberality; for, before he quitted my ship, I bestowed upon him +such of our commodities, as, I guessed, were most valuable in his +estimation. And the return I made was so much to his satisfaction, that, +as soon as he got on shore, he left me still indebted to him, by sending +me a fresh present, consisting of two large hogs, a considerable +quantity of cloth, and some yams. + +Feenou had expressed a desire to see the marines go through their +military exercise. As I was desirous to gratify his curiosity, I ordered +them all ashore, from both ships, in the morning of the 20th. After they +had performed various evolutions, and fired several vollies, with which +the numerous body of spectators seemed well pleased, the chief +entertained us, in his turn, with an exhibition, which, as was +acknowledged by us all, was performed with a dexterity and exactness, +far surpassing the specimen we had given of our military manoeuvres. It +was a kind of a dance, so entirely different from any thing I had ever +seen, that, I fear, I can give no description that will convey any +tolerable idea of it to my readers. It was performed by men; and one +hundred and five persons bore their parts in it. Each of them had in his +hand an instrument neatly made, shaped somewhat like a paddle, of two +feet and a half in length, with a small handle, and a thin blade; so +that they were very light. With these instruments they made many and +various flourishes, each of which was accompanied with a different +attitude of the body, or a different movement. At first, the performers +ranged themselves in three lines; and, by various evolutions, each man +changed his station in such a manner, that those who had been in the +rear came into the front. Nor did they remain long in the same position; +but these changes were made by pretty quick transitions. At one time +they extended themselves in one line; they, then, formed into a +semicircle; and, lastly, into two square columns. While this last +movement was executing, one of them advanced, and performed an antic +dance before me; with which the whole ended. + +The musical instruments consisted of two drums, or rather two hollow +logs of wood, from which some varied notes were produced, by beating on +them with two sticks. It did not, however, appear to me, that the +dancers were much assisted or directed by these sounds, but by a chorus +of vocal music, in which all the performers joined at the same time. +Their song was not destitute of pleasing melody; and all their +corresponding motions were executed with so much skill, that the +numerous body of dancers seemed to act, as if they were one great +machine. It was the opinion of every one of us, that such a performance +would have met with universal applause on a European theatre; and it so +far exceeded any attempt we had made to entertain them, that they seemed +to pique themselves upon the superiority they had over us. As to our +musical instruments, they held none of them in the least esteem, except +the drum; and even that they did not think equal to their own. Our +French horns, in particular, seemed to be held in great contempt; for +neither here, nor at any other of the islands, would they pay the +smallest attention to them. + +In order to give them a more favourable opinion of English amusements, +and to leave their minds fully impressed with the deepest sense of our +superior attainments, I directed some fireworks to be got ready; and, +after it was dark, played them off in the presence of Feenou, the other +chiefs, and a vast concourse of their people. Some of the preparations +we found damaged; but others of them were in excellent order, and +succeeded so perfectly, as to answer the end I had in view. Our water +and sky-rockets, in particular, pleased and astonished them beyond all +conception; and the scale was now turned in our favour. + +This, however, seemed only to furnish them with an additional motive to +proceed to fresh exertions of their very singular dexterity; and our +fireworks were no sooner ended, than a succession of dances, which +Feenou had got ready for our entertainment, began. As[160] a prelude to +them, a band of music, or chorus of eighteen men, seated themselves +before us, in the centre of the circle, composed by the numerous +spectators, the area of which was to be the scene of the exhibitions. +Four or five of this band had pieces of large bamboo, from three to five +or six feet long, each managed by one man, who held it nearly in a +vertical position, the upper end open, but the other end closed by one +of the joints. With this close end, the performers kept constantly +striking the ground, though slowly, thus producing different notes, +according to the different lengths of the instruments, but all of them +of the hollow or base sort; to counteract which, a person kept striking +quickly, and with two sticks, a piece of the same substance, split, and +laid along the ground, and, by that means, furnishing a tone as acute +as those produced by the others were grave. The rest of the band, as +well as those who performed upon the bamboos, sung a slow and soft air, +which so tempered the harsher notes of the above instruments, that no +bye-stander, however accustomed to hear the most perfect and varied +modulation of sweet sounds, could avoid confessing the vast power, and +pleasing effect, of this simple harmony. + +[Footnote 160: Mr Andersen's account of the night dances being much +fuller than Captain Cook's, the reader will not be displeased that it +has been adopted.--D.] + +The concert having continued about a quarter of an hour, twenty women +entered the circle. Most of them had, upon their heads, garlands of the +crimson flowers of the China rose, or others; and many of them had +ornamented their persons with leaves of trees, cut with a deal of nicety +about the edges. They made a circle round the chorus, turning their +faces toward it, and began by singing a soft air, to which responses +were made by the chorus in the same tone; and these were repeated +alternately. All this while, the women accompanied their song with +several very graceful motions of their hands toward their faces, and in +other directions at the same time, making constantly a step forward, and +then back again, with one foot, while the other was fixed. They then +turned their faces to the assembly, sung some time, and retreated slowly +in a body, to that part of the circle which was opposite the hut where +the principal spectators sat. After this, one of them advanced from each +side, meeting and passing each other in the front, and continuing their +progress round, till they came to the rest. On which, two advanced from +each side, two of whom also passed each other, and returned as the +former; but the other two remained, and to these came one, from each +side, by intervals, till the whole number had again formed a +circle-about the chorus. + +Their manner of dancing was now changed to a quicker measure, in which +they made a kind of half turn by leaping, and clapped their hands, and +snapped their fingers, repeating some words in conjunction with the +chorus. Toward the end, as the quickness of the music increased, their +gestures and attitudes were varied with wonderful vigour and dexterity; +and some of their motions, perhaps, would, with us, be reckoned rather +indecent. Though this part of the performance, most probably, was not +meant to convey any wanton ideas, but merely to display the astonishing +variety of their movements. + +To this grand female ballet, succeeded one performed by fifteen men. +Some of them were old; but their age seemed to have abated little of +their agility or ardour for the dance. They were disposed in a sort of +circle, divided at the front, with their faces not turned out toward the +assembly, nor inward to the chorus; but one half of their circle faced +forward as they had advanced, and the other half in a contrary +direction. They, sometimes, sung slowly, in concert with the chorus; +and, while thus employed, they also made several very fine motions with +their hands, but different from those made by the women, at the same +time inclining the body to either side alternately by raising one leg, +which was stretched outward, and resting on the other; the arm of the +same side being also stretched fully upward. At other times they recited +sentences in a musical tone, which were answered by the chorus; and, at +intervals, increased the measure of the dance, by clapping the hands, +and quickening the motions of the feet, which, however, were never +varied. At the end, the rapidity of the music, and of the dancing, +increased so much, that it was scarcely possible to distinguish the +different movements; though one might suppose the actors were now almost +tired, as their performance had lasted near half an hour. + +After a considerable interval, another act, as we may call it, began. +Twelve men now advanced, who placed themselves in double rows fronting +each other, but on opposite sides of the circle; and, on one side, a man +was stationed, who, as if he had been a prompter, repeated several +sentences, to which the twelve new performers, and the chorus, replied. +They then sung slowly; and afterward danced and sung more quickly, for +about a quarter of an hour, after the manner of the dancers whom they +had succeeded. + +Soon after they had finished, nine women exhibited themselves, and sat +down fronting the hut where the chief was. A man then rose, and struck +the first of these women on the back, with both fists joined. He +proceeded, in the same manner, to the second and third; but when he came +to the fourth, whether from accident or design I cannot tell, instead of +the back, he struck her on the breast. Upon this a person rose instantly +from the crowd, who brought him to the ground with a blow on the head; +and he was carried off without the least noise or disorder. But this did +not save the other five women from so odd a discipline, or perhaps +necessary ceremony; for a person succeeded him, who treated them in the +same manner. Their disgrace did not end here; for when they danced, they +had the mortification to find their performance twice disapproved of, +and were obliged to repeat it. This dance did not differ much from that +of the first women, except in this one circumstance, that the present +set sometimes raised the body upon one leg, by a sort of double motion, +and then upon the other alternately, in which attitude they kept +snapping their fingers; and, at the end, they repeated, with great +agility, the brisk movements, in which the former group of female +dancers had shewn themselves so expert. + +In a little tine, a person entered unexpectedly, and said something in a +ludicrous way, about the fireworks that had been exhibited, which +extorted a burst of laughter from the multitude. After this, we had a +dance composed of the men, who attended, or had followed, Feenou. They +formed a double circle (i.e. one within another) of twenty-four each, +round the chorus, and began a gentle soothing song, with corresponding +motions of the hands and head. This lasted a considerable time, and then +changed to a much quicker measure, during which they repeated sentences, +either in conjunction with the chorus, or in answer to some spoken by +that band. They then retreated to the back part of the circle, as the +women had done, and again advanced, on each side, in a triple row, till +they formed a semicircle, which was done very slowly, by inclining the +body on one leg, and advancing the other a little way, as they put it +down. They accompanied this with such a soft air as they had sung at the +beginning; but soon changed it to repeat sentences in a harsher tone, at +the same time quickening the dance very much, till they finished with a +general shout and clap of the hands. The same was repeated several +times; but, at last, they formed a double circle, as at the beginning, +danced, and repeated very quickly, and finally closed with several very +dexterous transpositions of the two circles. + +The entertainments of this memorable night concluded with a dance, in +which the principal people present exhibited. It resembled the +immediately preceding one, in some respects, having the same number of +performers, who began nearly in the same way; but their ending, at each +interval, was different; for they increased their motions to a +prodigious quickness, shaking their heads from shoulder to shoulder, +with such force, that a spectator, unaccustomed to the sight, would +suppose, that they ran a risk of dislocating their necks. This was +attended with a smart clapping of the hands, and a kind of savage holla! +or shriek, not unlike what is sometimes practised in the comic dances on +our European theatres. They formed the triple semicircle, as the +preceding dancers had done; and a person, who advanced at the head on +one side of the semicircle, began by repeating something in a truly +musical recitative, which was delivered with an air so graceful, as +might put to the blush our most applauded performers. He was answered in +the same manner, by the person at the head of the opposite party. This +being repeated several times, the whole body, on one side, joined in the +responses to the whole corresponding body on the opposite side, as the +semicircle advanced to the front; and they finished, by singing and +dancing as they had begun. + +These two last dances were performed with so much spirit, and so great +exactness, that they met with universal approbation. The native +spectators, who, no doubt, were perfect judges whether the several +performances were properly executed, could not withhold their applauses +at some particular parts; and even a stranger, who never saw the +diversion before, felt similar satisfaction, at the same instant. For +though, through the whole, the most strict concert was observed, some of +the gestures were so expressive, that it might be said, they spoke the +language that accompanied them; if we allow that there is any connection +between motion and sound. At the same time, it should be observed, that +though the music of the chorus, and that of the dancers, corresponded, +constant practice in these favourite amusements of our friends, seems to +have a great share in effecting the exact time they keep in their +performances. For we observed, that if any of them happened accidentally +to be interrupted, they never found the smallest difficulty in +recovering the proper place of the dance or song. And their perfect +discipline was in no instance more remarkable, than in the sudden +transitions they so dexterously made from the ruder exertions, and harsh +sounds, to the softest airs, and gentlest movements.[161] + +[Footnote 161: In a former note, it was observed, that the songs and +dances of the Caroline Islanders, in the North Pacific, bear a great +resemblance to those of the inhabitants of Wateeoo. The remark may be +now extended to those of the Friendly Islanders, described at large in +this chapter. That the reader may judge for himself, I have selected the +following particulars from Father Cantova's account. "Pendant la nuit, +au clair de la lune, ils s'assemblent, de temps en temps, pour chanter & +danser devant la maison de leur _Tumole_. Leurs danses se font au son de +la voix, car ils n'ont point d'instrument de musique. La beaute de la +danse, consiste dans l'exacte uniformite des mouvemens du corps. Les +hommes, separes des femmes, se postent vis-a-vis les uns des autres; +apres quoi, ils remuent la tete, les bras, les mains, les pieds, en +cadence. Leur tete est couverte de plumes, on de fleurs;--et l'on voit, +attachees a leurs oreilles, des feuilles de palmier tissues avec assez +d'art--Les femmes, de leur cote,--se regardant les unes les autres, +commencent un chant pathetique & langoureux, accompagnant le son de leur +voix du mouvement cadence de la tete & des bras."--_Lettres Edifiantes & +Curiesues_, tom. xv. p. 314, 315.--D.] + +The place where the dances were performed was an open space amongst the +trees, just by the sea, with lights, at small intervals, placed round +the inside of the circle. The concourse of people was pretty large, +though not equal to the number assembled in the forenoon, when the +marines exercised. At that time, some of our gentlemen guessed there +might be present about five thousand persons; others thought there were +more; but they who reckoned that there were fewer, probably, came nearer +the truth. + + +SECTION VI. + +_Description of Lefooga.--Its cultivated State.--Its +Extent.--Transactions there.--A female Oculist.--Singular Expedients for +shaving off the Hair.--The Ships change their Station.--A remarkable +Mount and Stone.--Inscription of Hoolaiva.--Account of Poulaho, King of +the friendly Islands.--Respectful Manner in which he is treated by his +People.--Departure from the Hapaee Islands.--Some Account of +Kotoo.--Return of the Ships to Annamooka.--Poulaho and Feenou +meet.--Arrival at Tongataboo._ + + +Curiosity on both sides being now sufficiently gratified by the +exhibition of the various entertainments I have described, I began to +have time to look about me. Accordingly, next day (May 21) I took a walk +into the island of Lefooga, of which I was desirous to obtain some +knowledge. I found it to be, in several respects, superior to Annamooka. +The plantations were both more numerous and more extensive. In many +places, indeed, toward the sea, especially on the east side, the country +is still waste, owing perhaps to the sandy soil, as it is much lower +than Annamooka, and its surrounding isles. But toward the middle of the +island the soil is better; and the marks of considerable population, and +of improved cultivation, were very conspicuous. For we met here with +very large plantations, inclosed in such a manner that the fences, +running parallel to each other, form fine spacious public roads, that +would appear ornamental in countries where rural conveniences have been +carried to the greatest perfection. We observed large spots covered with +the paper mulberry-trees; and the plantations, in general, were well +stocked with such roots and fruits as are the natural produce of the +island. To these I made some addition, by sowing the seeds of Indian +corn, melons, pumpkins, and the like. At one place was a house, four or +five times as large as those of the common sort, with a large area of +grass before it; and I take it for granted, the people resort thither on +certain public occasions. Near the landing-place we saw a mount, two or +three feet high, covered with gravel; and on it stood four or five small +huts, in which the natives told us the bodies of some of their principal +people had been interred. + +The island is not above seven miles long, and in some places not above +two or three broad. The east side of it, which is exposed to the +trade-wind, has a reef running to a considerable breadth from it, on +which the sea breaks with great violence. It is a continuation of this +reef that joins Lefooga to Foa, which is not above half a mile distant; +and at low water the natives can walk upon this reef, which is then +partly dry from the one island to the other. The shore itself is either +a coral rock, six or seven feet high, or a sandy beach, but higher than +the west side, which in general is not more than three or four feet from +the level of the sea, with a sandy beach its whole length. + +When I returned from my excursion into the country, and went on board +to dinner, I found a large sailing canoe fast to the ship's stern. In +this canoe was Latooliboula, whom I had seen at Tongataboo during my +last voyage, and who was then supposed by us to be the king of that +island. He sat in the canoe with all that gravity, by which, as I have +mentioned in my journal,[162] he was so remarkably distinguished at that +time; nor could I, by any entreaties, prevail upon him now to come into +the ship. Many of the islanders were present, and they all called him +_Areekee_, which signifies king. I had never heard any one of them give +this title to Feenou, however extensive his authority over them, both +here and at Annamooka, had appeared to be, which had all along inclined +me to suspect that he was not the king, though his friend Taipa had +taken pains to make me believe he was. Latooliboula remained under the +stern till the evening, when he retired in his canoe to one of the +islands. Feenou was on board my ship at the same time; but neither of +these great men took the least notice of the other. + +[Footnote 162: The name of this extraordinary personage is there said to +be _Kohagee too Fallangou_, which cannot, by the most skilful +etymologist, be tortured into the least most distant resemblance of +_Latooliboula_. It is remarkable that Captain Cook should not take any +notice of his having called the same person by two names so very +different. Perhaps we may account for this, by supposing one to be the +name of the person, and the other the description of his title or rank. +This supposition seems well founded, when we consider that _Latoo_, in +the language of these people, is sometimes used to signify a great +chief; and Dr Forster, in his Observations, p. 378, 379, and elsewhere, +speaks of the sovereign of Tongataboo under the title of their _Latoo_. +This very person is called by Dr Forster, p. 370, _Latoo-Nipooroo_, +which furnishes a very striking instance of the variations of our people +in writing down the same word as pronounced by the natives. However, we +can easily trace the affinity between _Nipooroo_ and _Liboula_, as the +changes of the consonants are such as are perpetually made upon hearing +a word pronounced to which our ears have not been accustomed. Mr +Anderson here agrees with Captain Cook in writing Latooliboula.--D.] + +Nothing material happened the next day, except that some of the natives +stole a tarpaulin, and other things, from off the deck. They were soon +missed, and the thieves pursued, but a little too late. I applied, +therefore, to Feenou, who, if he was not king, was at least vested with +the highest authority here to exert it, in order to have my things +restored. He referred me to Earoupa, who put me off from time to time, +and at last nothing was done. + +In the morning of the 23d, as we were going to unmoor, in order to +leave the island, Feenou, and his prime minister Taipa, came alongside +in a sailing canoe, and informed me that they were setting out for +Vavaoo, an island which they said lies about two days sail to the +northward of Hepaee. The object of their voyage, they would have me +believe, was to get for me an additional supply of hogs, and some +red-feathered caps for Omai to carry to Otaheite, where they are in high +esteem. Feenou assured me that he should be back in four or five days, +and desired me not to sail till his return, when he promised he would +accompany me to Tongataboo. I thought this a good opportunity to get +some knowledge of Vavaoo, and proposed to him to go thither with the +ships. But he seemed not to approve of the plan; and, by way of +diverting me from it, told me that there was neither harbour nor +anchorage about it. I therefore consented to wait, in my present +station, for his return, and he immediately set out. + +The next day, our attention was for some time taken up with a report, +industriously spread about by some of the natives, that a ship like ours +had arrived at Annamooka since we left it, and was now at anchor there. +The propagators of the report were pleased to add, that Toobou, the +chief of that island, was hastening thither to receive these new comers; +and as we knew that he had actually left us, we were the more ready to +believe there might be some foundation for the story of this unexpected +arrival. However, to gain some farther information, I went on shore with +Omai, in quest of the man who, it was said, had brought the first +account of this event from Annamooka. We found him at the house of +Earoupa, where Omai put such questions to him as I thought necessary; +and the answers he gave were so clear and satisfactory, that I had not a +doubt remaining. But, just about this time, a chief of some note, whom +we well knew, arrived from Annamooka, and declared that no ship was at +that island, nor had been, since our leaving it. The propagator of the +report, finding himself detected in a falsehood, instantly withdrew, and +we saw no more of him. What end the invention of this tale could answer +was not easy to conjecture, unless we suppose it to have been artfully +contrived, to get us removed from the one island to the other. + +In my walk on the 25th, I happened to step into a house, where a woman +was dressing the eyes of a young child, who seemed blind, the eyes being +much inflamed, and a thin film spread over them. The instruments she +used were two slender wooden probes, with which she had brushed the eyes +so as to make them bleed. It seems worth mentioning, that the natives of +these islands should attempt an operation of this sort, though I entered +the house too late to describe exactly how this female oculist employed +the wretched tools she had to work with. + +I was fortunate enough to see a different operation going on in the same +house, of which I can give a tolerable account. I found there another +woman shaving a child's head, with a shark's tooth, stuck into the end +of a piece of stick. I observed that she first wetted the hair with a +rag dipped in water, applying her instrument to that part which she had +previously soaked. The operation seemed to give no pain to the child, +although the hair was taken off as close as if one of our razors had +been employed. Encouraged by what I now saw, I soon after tried one of +these singular instruments upon myself, and found it to be an excellent +_succedaneum_. However, the men of these islands have recourse to +another contrivance when they shave their beards. The operation is +performed with two shells, one of which they place under a small part of +the beard, and with the other, applied above, they scrape that part off. +In this manner they are able to shave very close. The process is, +indeed, rather tedious, but not painful; and there are men amongst them +who seemed to profess this trade. It was as common, while we were here, +to see our sailors go ashore to have their beards scraped off, after the +fashion of Hepaee, as it was to see their chiefs come on board to be +shaved by our barbers. + +Finding that little or nothing of the produce of the island was now +brought to the ships, I resolved to change our station, and to wait +Feenou's return from Vavaoo, in some other convenient anchoring-place, +where refreshments might still be met with. Accordingly, in the forenoon +of the 26th, we got under sail, and stood to the southward along the +reef of the island, having fourteen and thirteen, fathoms water, with a +sandy bottom. However, we met with several detached shoals. Some of them +were discovered by breakers, some by the water upon them appearing +discoloured, and others by the lead. At half past two in the afternoon +having already passed several of these shoals, and seeing more of them +before us, I hauled into a bay that lies between the S. end of Lefooga +and the N. end of Hoolaiva, and there anchored in seventeen fathoms +water, the bottom a coral sand; the point of Lefooga bearing S.E. by E. +a mile and a half distant. The Discovery did not get to an anchor till +sunset. She had touched upon one of the shoals, but backed off again +without receiving any damage. + +As soon as we had anchored, I sent Mr Bligh to sound the bay where we +were now stationed; and myself, accompanied by Mr Gore, landed on the +southern part of Lefooga, to examine the country, and to look for fresh +water. Not that we now wanted a supply of this article, having filled +all the casks at our late station; but I had been told that this part of +the island could afford us some preferable to any we had got at the +former watering-place. This will not be the only time I shall have +occasion to remark that these people do not know what good water is. We +were conducted to two wells, but the water in both of them proved to be +execrable, and the natives, our guides, assured us that they had none +better. + +Near the S. end of the island, and on the W. side, we met with an +artificial mount. From the size of some trees that were growing upon it, +and from other appearances, I guessed that it had been raised in remote +times. I judged it to be about forty feet high, and the diameter of its +summit measured fifty feet. At the bottom of this mount stood a stone, +which must have been hewn out of coral rock. It was four feet broad, two +and a half thick, and fourteen high; and we were told by the natives +present that not above half its length appeared above ground. They +called it _Tangata Arekee_,[163] and said that it had been set up, and +the mount raised, by some of their forefathers, in memory of one of +their kings, but how long since they could not tell. + +[Footnote 163: _Tangata,_ in their language, is man; _Arekee_, king.] + +Night coming on, Mr Gore and I returned on board; and, at the same time, +Mr Bligh got back from sounding the bay, in which he found from fourteen +to twenty fathoms water, the bottom for the most part sand, but not +without some coral rocks. The place where we now anchored is much +better sheltered than that which we had lately come from; but between +the two is another anchoring station, much better than either. Lefooga +and Hoolaiva are divided from each other by a reef of coral rocks, which +is dry at low water; so that one may walk at that time from the one to +the other, without wetting a foot. Some of our gentlemen, who landed in +the latter island, did not find the least mark of cultivation, or +habitation, upon it, except a single hut, the residence of a man +employed to catch fish and turtle. It is rather extraordinary that it +should be in this deserted state, communicating so immediately with +Lefooga, which is so perfectly cultivated; for though the soil is quite +sandy, all the trees and plants found in a natural state on the +neighbouring islands, are produced here with the greatest vigour. The E. +side of it has a reef like Lefooga, and the W. side has a bending at the +N. part, where there seems to be good anchorage. Uninhabited as Hoolaiva +is, an artificial mount, like that at the adjoining island, has been +raised upon it, as high as some of the surrounding trees. + +At day-break, next morning, I made the signal to weigh; and as I +intended to attempt a passage to Annamooka, in my way to Tongataboo, by +the S.W. amongst the intervening islands, I sent the master in a boat to +sound before the ships. But before we could get under sail the wind +became unsettled, which made it unsafe to attempt a passage this way +till we were better acquainted with it. I therefore lay fast, and made +the signal for the master to return; and afterward sent him and the +master of the Discovery, each in a boat, with instructions to examine +the channels, as far as they could, allowing themselves time to get back +to the ships before the close of the day. + +About noon a large sailing canoe came under our stern, in which was a +person named Futtafaihe, or Poulaho, or both, who, as the natives then +on board told us, was King of Tongataboo, and of all the neighbouring +islands that we had seen or heard of. It was a matter of surprise to me +to have a stranger introduced under this character, which I had so much +reason to believe really belonged to another. But they persisted in +their account of the supreme dignity of this new visitor; and now, for +the first time, they owned to me, that Feenou was not the king, but only +a subordinate chief, though of great power, as he was often sent from +Tongataboo to the other islands on warlike expeditions, or to decide +differences. It being my interest, as well as my inclination, to pay +court to all the great men, without making enquiry into the validity of +their assumed titles, I invited Poulaho on board, as I understood he was +very desirous to come. He could not be an unwelcome guest, for he +brought with him, as a present to me, two good fat hogs, though not so +fat as himself, if weight of body could give weight in rank and power, +he was certainly the most eminent man in that respect we had seen; for, +though not very tall, he was very unwieldy, and almost shapeless with +corpulence. He seemed to be about forty years of age, had straight hair, +and his features differed a good deal from those of the bulk of his +people. I found him to be a sedate, sensible man. He viewed the ship, +and the several new objects, with uncommon attention, and asked many +pertinent questions, one of which was, What could induce us to visit +these islands? After he had satisfied his curiosity in looking at the +cattle, and other novelties which he met with upon deck, I desired him +to walk down into the cabin. To this some of his attendants objected, +saying, that if he were to accept of that invitation, it must happen, +that people would walk over his head, which could not be permitted. I +directed my interpreter Omai, to tell them that I would obviate their +objection, by giving orders that no one should presume to walk upon that +part of the deck which was over the cabin. Whether this expedient would +have satisfied them was far from appearing, but the chief himself, less +scrupulous in this respect than his attendants, waved all ceremony, and +walked down without any stipulation. He now appeared to be as solicitous +himself, as his people were, to convince us that he was king, and not +Feenou, who had passed with us as such; for he soon perceived that we +had some doubts about it, which doubts Omai was not very desirous of +removing. The closest connection had been formed between him and Feenou, +in testimony of which they had exchanged names; and therefore he was not +a little chagrined, that another person now put in his claim to the +honours which his friend had hitherto enjoyed. + +Poulaho sat down with us to dinner, but he ate little, and drank less. +When we rose from the table, he desired me to accompany him ashore. Omai +was asked to be of the party, but he was too faithfully attached to +Feenou to shew any attention to his competitor, and therefore excused +himself. I attended the chief in my own boat, having first made presents +to him of such articles as I could observe he valued much, and were even +beyond his expectation to receive. I was not disappointed in my view of +thus securing his friendship, for the moment the boat reached the beach, +and before he quitted her, he ordered two more hogs to be brought, and +delivered to my people to be conveyed on board. He was then carried out +of the boat by some of his own people, upon a board resembling a +hand-barrow, and went and seated himself in a small house near the +shore, which seemed to have been erected there for his accommodation. He +placed me at his side, and his attendants, who were not numerous, seated +themselves in a semicircle before us, on the outside of the house. +Behind the chief, or rather on one side, sat an old woman, with a sort +of fan in her hand, whose office it was to prevent his being pestered +with the flies. + +The several articles which his people had got, by trading on board the +ships, were now displayed before him. He looked over them all with +attention, enquired what they had given in exchange, and seemed pleased +with the bargains they had made. At length he ordered every thing to be +restored to the respective owners, except a glass bowl, with which he +was so much pleased that he reserved it for himself. The persons who +brought these things to him, first squatted themselves down before him, +then they deposited their several purchases, and immediately rose up and +retired. The same respectful ceremony was observed in taking them away, +and not one of them presumed to speak to him standing. I stayed till +several of his attendants left him, first paying him obeisance, by +bowing the head down to the sole of his foot, and touching or tapping +the same with the upper and under side of the fingers of both hands. +Others, who were not in the circle, came, as it seemed, on purpose, and +paid him this mark of respect and then retired, without speaking a word. +I was quite charmed with the decorum that was observed. I had no where +seen the like, not even amongst more civilized nations. + +I found the master returned from his expedition when I got on board. He +informed me, that, as far as he had proceeded, there was anchorage, and +a passage for the ships, but that toward the S. and S.E. he saw a number +of small isles, shoals, and breakers. Judging, from this report, that my +attempting a passage that way would be attended with some risk, I now +dropped all thoughts of it, thinking it better to return toward +Annamooka by the same route, which we had so lately experienced to be a +safe one. + +Having come to this resolution, I should have sailed next morning if the +wind had not been too far southerly, and at the same time very +unsettled. Poulaho, the king, as I shall now call him, came on board +betimes, and brought, as a present to me, one of their caps, made, or at +least covered, with red feathers. These caps were much sought after by +us, for we knew they would be highly valued at Otaheite. But though +very large prices were offered, not one was ever brought for sale; which +shewed that they were no less valuable in the estimation of the people +here; nor was there a person in either ship that could make himself the +proprietor of one, except myself, Captain Clerke, and Omai. These caps, +or rather bonnets, are composed of the tail feathers of the tropic bird, +with the red feathers of the parroquets wrought upon them, or jointly +with them. They are made so as to tie upon the forehead without any +crown, and have the form of a semicircle, whose _radius_ is eighteen or +twenty inches. The chief stayed on board till the evening, when he left +us; but his brother, whose name was also Futtafaihe, and one or two or +more of his attendants, continued in the ship all night. + +At day-break, the next morning, I weighed with a fine breeze at E.N.E. +and stood to the westward, with a view to return to Annamooka, by the +track we had already experienced. We were followed by several sailing +canoes, in one of which was the king. As soon as he got on board the +Resolution, he enquired for his brother, and the others who had remained +with us all night. It now appeared that they had stayed without his +leave, for he gave them, in a very few words, such a reprimand as +brought tears from their eyes, and yet they were men not less than +thirty years of age. He was, however, soon reconciled to their making a +longer stay, for, on quitting us, he left his brother, and five of his +attendants, on board. We had also the company of a chief just then +arrived from Tongataboo, whose name was Tooboueitoa. The moment he +arrived he sent his canoe away, and declared, that he and five more, who +came with him, would sleep on board, so that I had now my cabin filled +with visitors. This, indeed, was some inconvenience; but I bore with it +more willingly, as they brought plenty of provisions with them as +presents to me, for which they always had suitable returns. + +About one o'clock in the afternoon, the easterly wind was succeeded by a +fresh breeze at S.S.E. Our course now being S.S.W. or more southerly, we +were obliged to ply to windward, and did but just fetch the N. side of +Footooha by eight o'clock, where we spent the night, making short +boards. + +The next morning we plyed up to Lofanga, where, according to the +information of our friends, there was anchorage. It was one o'clock in +the afternoon before we got soundings under the lee or N.W. side, in +forty fathoms water, near half a mile from the shore; but the bank was +steep, and the bottom rocky, and a chain of breakers lay to leeward. All +these circumstances being against us, I stretched away for Kotoo, with +the expectation of finding better anchoring ground under that island. +But so much time had been spent in plying up to Lofanga, that it was +dark before we reached the other; and finding no place to anchor in, the +night was spent as the preceding one. + +At day-break on the 31st I stood for the channel, which is between Kotoo +and the reef of rocks that lie to the westward of it; but, on drawing +near, I found the wind too scant to lead us through. I therefore bore up +on the outside of the reef, and stretched to the S.W. till near noon, +when, perceiving that we made no progress to windward, and being +apprehensive of losing the islands with so many of the natives on board, +I tacked and stood back, intending to wait till some more favourable +opportunity. We did but just fetch in with Footooba, between which and +Kotoo we spent the night, under reefed top-sails and fore-sail. The wind +blew fresh, and by squalls, with rain; and we were not without +apprehensions of danger. I kept the deck till midnight, when I left it +to the master, with such directions as I thought would keep the ships +clear of the shoals and rocks that lay round us. But, after making a +trip to the N., and standing back again to the S., our ship, by a small +shift of the wind, fetched farther to the windward than was expected. By +this means she was very near running full upon a low sandy isle, called +Pootoo Pootooa, surrounded with breakers. It happened, very fortunately, +that the people had just been ordered upon the deck to put the ship +about, and the most of them were at their stations, so that the +necessary movements were not only executed with judgment, but also with +alertness, and this alone saved us from destruction. The Discovery being +a-stern was out of danger. Such hazardous situations are the unavoidable +companions of the man who goes upon a voyage of discovery. + +This circumstance frightened our passengers so much that they expressed +a strong desire to get ashore. Accordingly, as soon as day-light +returned, I hoisted out a boat, and ordered the officer who commanded +her, after landing them at Kotoo, to sound along the reef that spits off +from that island for anchorage; for I was full as much tired as they +could be with beating about amongst the surrounding isles and shoals, +and determined to get to an anchor somewhere or other if possible. While +the boat was absent, we attempted to turn the ships through the channel, +between the sandy isle and the reef of Kotoo, in expectation of finding +a moderate depth of water behind them to anchor in. But, meeting with a +tide or current against us, we were obliged to desist, and anchor in +fifty fathoms water, with the sandy isle bearing E. by N. one mile +distant. + +We lay here till the 4th of June. While in this station we were several +times visited by the king, by Touboueitoa, and by people from the +neighbouring islands, who came off to trade with us, though the wind +blew very fresh most of the time. The master was now sent to sound the +channels between the islands that lie to the eastward; and I landed on +Kotoo to examine it in the forenoon of the 2d. + +This island is scarcely accessible by boats, on account of coral reefs +that surround it. It is not more than a mile and half, or two miles, +long, and not so broad. The N.W. end of it is low, like the islands of +Hapaee; but it rises suddenly in the middle, and terminates in reddish +clayey cliffs at the S.E. end, about thirty feet high. The soil, in that +quarter, is of the same sort as in the cliffs, but in the other parts it +is a loose black mould. It produces the same fruits and roots which we +found at the other islands; is tolerably cultivated, but thinly +inhabited. While I was walking all over it, our people were employed in +cutting some grass for the cattle; and we planted some melon seeds, with +which the natives seemed much pleased, and inclosed them with branches. +On our return to the boat we passed by two or three ponds of dirty +water, which was more or less brackish in each of them; and saw one of +their burying-places, which was much neater than those that were met +with at Hepaee. + +On the 4th, at seven in the morning, we weighed, and, with a fresh gale +at E.S.E., stood away for Annamooka, where we anchored next morning, +nearly in the same station which we had so lately occupied. + +I went on shore soon after, and found the inhabitants very busy in their +plantations, digging up yams to bring to market; and, in the course of +the day, about two hundred of them had assembled on the beach, and +traded with as much eagerness, as during our late visit. Their stock +appeared to have been recruited much, though we had returned so soon; +but instead of bread-fruit, which was the only article we could purchase +on our first arrival, nothing was to be seen now but yams, and a few +plantains. This shews the quick succession of the seasons, at least of +the different vegetables produced here, at the several times of the +year. It appeared also that they had been very busy while we were absent +in cultivating, for we now saw several large plantain fields, in places +which we had so lately seen lying waste. The yams were now in the +greatest perfection, and we procured a good quantity in exchanges for +pieces of iron. + +These people, in the absence of Toubou, whom we left behind us at Kotoo, +with Poulaho and the other chiefs, seemed to be under little +subordination. For we could not perceive this day that one man assumed +more authority than another. Before I returned on board I visited the +several places where I had sown melon seeds, and had the mortification +to find that most of them were destroyed by a small ant; but some +pine-apple plants, which I had also left, were in a thriving state. + +About noon next day, Feenou arrived from Vavaoo. He told us, that +several canoes, laden with hogs and other provisions, which had sailed +with him from that island, had been lost, owing to the late blowing +weather, and that every body on board them had perished. This melancholy +tale did not seem to affect any of his countrymen who heard it, and, as +to ourselves, we were by this time too well acquainted with his +character to give much credit to such a story. The truth probably was, +that he had not been able to procure at Vavaoo the supplies which he +expected; or, if he got any there, that he had left them at Hepaee, +which lay in his way back, and where he could not but receive +intelligence that Poulaho had been with us; who, therefore, he knew, +would, as his superior, have all the merit and reward of procuring them, +though he had not any share of the trouble. The invention of this loss +at sea was however well imagined, for there had lately been very blowing +weather; insomuch, that the king, and other chiefs, who had followed us +from Hepaee to Kotoo, had been left there, not caring to venture to sea +when we did, but desired I might wait for them at Annamooka, which was +the reason of my anchoring there this second time, and of my not +proceeding directly to Tongataboo. + +The following morning Poulaho, and the other chiefs who had been +wind-bound with him, arrived. I happened, at this time, to be ashore in +company with Feenou, who now seemed to be sensible of the impropriety of +his conduct, in assuming a character that did not belong to him. For he +not only acknowledged Poulaho to be King of Tongataboo, and the other +isles, but affected to insist much on it, which, no doubt, was with a +view to make amends for his former presumption. I left him to visit this +greater man, whom I found sitting with a few people before him. But +every one hastening to pay court to him, the circle increased pretty +fast. I was very desirous of observing Feenou's behaviour on this +occasion, and had the most convincing proof of his superiority, for he +placed himself amongst the rest that sat before Poulaho, as attendants +on his majesty. He seemed at first rather abashed, as some of us were +present who had been used to see him act a different part; but he soon +recovered himself. Some little conversation passed between these two +chiefs, which none of us understood, nor were we satisfied with Omai's +interpretation of it. We were, however, by this time sufficiently +undeceived as to Feenou's rank. Both he and Poulaho went on board with +me to dinner, but only the latter sat at table. Feenou, having made his +obeisance in the usual way, saluting his sovereign's foot with his head +and hands, retired out of the cabin.[164] The king had before told us +that this would happen, and it now appeared that Feenou could not even +eat or drink in his royal presence. + +[Footnote 164: Marks of profound respect, very similar to those paid by +natives of the Friendly Islands to their sovereign, are also paid to the +principal chiefs, or _Tamoles_, of the Caroline Islands, as appears from +Father Cantova's account here transcribed. "Lorsqu'un _Tamole_ donne +audience, il paroit assis sur une table elevee: les peuples s'inclinent +devant lui jusqu'a terre; et du plus loin qu'ils arrivent, il marchent +le corps tout courbe, et la tete presqu'entre les genoux, jusqu'a ce +qu'ils soient aupres de sa personne; alors ils s'asseyent a plate terre; +et, les yeux baisses, il recoivent ses ordres avec le plus profond +respect. Quand le _Tamole_ les congedie, ils se retirent, en se courbant +de la meme maniere que quand ils sont venus, et ne se relevent que +lorsqu'ils sont hors de sa presence. Ses paroles sont autant d'oracles +qu'on revere; on rend a ses ordres une obeissance aveugle; enfin, on +baise les mains et les pieds, quand on lui demande quelque +grace."--_Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses_, _tom._ xv. p. 312, 313.--D.] + + +At eight o'clock next morning we weighed and steered for Tongataboo, +having a gentle breeze at N.E. About fourteen or fifteen +sailing-vessels, belonging to the natives, set out with us, but every +one of them outrun the ships considerably. Feenou was to have taken his +passage in the Resolution, but preferred his own canoe, and put two men +on board to conduct us to the best anchorage. We steered S. by W. by +compass. + +At five in the afternoon we saw two small islands bearing W., about four +leagues distant. Our pilots called the one Hoonga Hapaee, and the other +Hoonga Tonga. They lie in the latitude of 20 deg. 36', and ten or eleven +leagues from the W. point of Annamooka, in the direction of S. 46 deg. W. +According to the account of the islanders on board, only five men reside +upon Hoonga Hapaee, and Hoonga Tonga is uninhabited; but both of them +abound with sea-fowl. + +We continued the same course till two o'clock next morning, when, seeing +some lights ahead, and not knowing whether they were on shore, or on +board the canoes, we hauled the wind, and made a short trip each way +till daybreak. We then resumed our course to the S. by W.; and presently +after saw several small islands before us, and Eooa and Tongataboo +beyond them. We had, at this time, twenty-five fathoms water, over a +bottom of broken coral and sand. The depth gradually decreased as we +drew near the isles above mentioned, which lie ranged along the N.E. +side of Tongataboo. By the direction of our pilots we steered for the +middle of it, and for the widest space between the small isles which we +were to pass, having our boats ahead employed in sounding. We were +insensibly drawn upon a large flat, upon which lay innumerable coral +rocks, of different depths, below the surface of the water. +Notwithstanding all our care and attention to keep the ship clear of +them, we could not prevent her from striking on one of these rocks. Nor +did the Discovery, though behind us, escape any better. Fortunately, +neither of the ships stuck fast, nor received any damage. We could not +get back without increasing the danger, as we had come almost before the +wind. Nor could we cast anchor, but with the certainty of having our +cables instantly cut in two by the rocks. We had no other resource but +to proceed. To this, indeed, we were encouraged, not only by being +told, but by seeing, that there was deeper water between us and the +shore. However, that we might be better informed, the moment we found a +spot where we could drop the anchor, clear of rocks, we came-to, and +sent the masters with the boats to sound. + +Soon after we had anchored, which was about noon, several of the +inhabitants of Tongataboo came off in their canoes to the ships. These, +as well as our pilots, assured us that we should find deep water farther +in, and a bottom free from rocks. They were not mistaken; for about four +o'clock the boats made the signal for having found good anchorage. Upon +this we weighed, and stood in till dark, and then anchored in nine +fathoms, having a fine, clear, sandy bottom. + +During the night we had some showers of rain, but toward the morning the +wind shifted to the S. and S.E., and brought on fair weather. At +day-break we weighed, and, working in to the shore, met with no +obstructions, but such as were visible and easily avoided. + +While we were plying up to the harbour, to which the natives directed +us, the king kept sailing round us in his canoe. There were, at the same +time, a great many small canoes about the ships. Two of these, which +could not get out of the way of his royal vessel, he run quite over, +with as little concern as if they had been bits of wood. Amongst many +others who came on board the Resolution, was Otago, who had been so +useful to me when I visited Tongataboo during my last voyage, and one +Toubou, who, at that time, had attached himself to Captain Furneaux. +Each of them brought a hog and some yams, as a testimony of his +friendship; and I was not wanting, on my part, in making a suitable +return. + +At length, about two in the afternoon, we arrived at our intended +station. It was a very snug place, formed by the shore of Tongataboo on +the S.E. and two small islands on the E. and N.E. Here we anchored in +ten fathoms water, over a bottom of oozy sand, distant from the shore +one-third of a mile. + + +SECTION VII. + +_Friendly Reception at Tongataboo.--Manner of distributing a baked Hog +and Kava to Poulaho's Attendants.--The Observatory, &c. erected.--The +Village where the Chiefs reside, and the adjoining Country, +described.--Interviews with Mareewagee, and Toobou, and the King's +Son.--A grand Haiva, or Entertainment of Songs and Dances, given by +Mareewagee.--Exhibition of Fireworks.--Manner of Wrestling and +Boxing.--Distribution of the Cattle.--Thefts committed by the +Natives.--Poulaho, and the other Chiefs, confined on that +Account.--Poulaho's Present and Haiva._ + + +Soon after we had anchored, having first dined, I landed, accompanied by +Omai and some of the officers. We found the king waiting for as upon the +beach. He immediately conducted us to a small neat house, situated a +little within the skirts of the wood, with a fine large area before it. +This house, he told me, was at my service during our stay at the island; +and a better situation we could not wish for. + +We had not been long in the house before a pretty large circle of the +natives were assembled before us, and seated upon the area. A root of +the _kava_ plant being brought, and laid down before the king, he +ordered it to be split into pieces, and distributed to several people of +both sexes, who began the operation of chewing it, and a bowl of their +favourite liquor was soon prepared. In the mean time, a baked hog, and +two baskets of baked yams, were produced, and afterward divided into ten +portions. These portions were then given to certain people present; but +how many were to share in each I could not tell. One of them, I +observed, was bestowed upon the king's brother, and one remained +undisposed of, which, I judged, was for the king himself, as it was a +choice bit. The liquor was next served out, but Poulaho seemed to give +no directions about it. The first cup was brought to him, which he +ordered to be given to one who sat near him. The second was also brought +to him, and this he kept. The third was given to me, but their manner of +brewing having quenched my thirst, it became Omai's property. The rest +of the liquor was distributed to different people, by direction of the +man who had the management of it. One of the cups being carried to the +king's brother, he retired with this, and with his mess of victuals. +Some others also quitted the circle with their portions, and the reason +was, they could neither eat nor drink in the royal presence; but there +were others present, of a much inferior rank, of both sexes, who did +both. Soon after most of them withdrew, carrying with them what they had +not eat of their share of the feast. + +I observed that not a fourth part of the company had tasted either the +victuals or the drink; those who partook of the former I supposed to be +of the king's household. The servants who distributed the baked meat and +the _kava_, always delivered it out of their hand sitting, not only to +the king but to every other person. It is worthy of remark, though this +was the first time of our landing, and a great many people were present +who had never seen us before, yet no one was troublesome, but the +greatest good order was preserved throughout the whole assembly. + +Before I returned on board, I went in search of a watering-place, and +was conducted to some ponds, or rather holes, containing fresh water, as +they were pleased to call it. The contents of one of these indeed were +tolerable, but it was at some distance inland, and the supply to be got +from it was very inconsiderable. Being informed that the little island +of Pangimodoo, near which the ships lay, could better furnish this +necessary article, I went over to it next morning, and was so fortunate +as to find there a small pool that had rather fresher water than any we +had met with amongst these islands. The pool being very dirty, I ordered +it to be cleaned; and here it was that we watered the ships. + +As I intended to make some stay at Tongataboo, we pitched a tent in the +forenoon, just by the house which Poulaho had assigned for our use. The +horses, cattle, and sheep, were afterward landed, and a party of +marines, with their officer, stationed there as a guard. The observatory +was then set up, at a small distance from the other tent; and Mr King +resided on shore, to attend the observations, and to superintend the +several operations necessary to be conducted there. For the sails were +carried thither to be repaired; a party was employed in cutting wood +for fuel, and plank for the use of the ships; and the gunners of both +were ordered to remain on the spot, to conduct the traffic with the +natives, who thronged from every part of the island with hogs, yams, +cocoa-nuts, and other articles of their produce. In a short time our +land post was like a fair, and the ships were so crowded with visitors, +that we had hardly room to stir upon the decks. + +Feenou had taken up his residence in our neighbourhood; but he was no +longer the leading man. However we still found him to be a person of +consequence, and we had daily proofs of his opulence and liberality, by +the continuance of his valuable presents. But the king was equally +attentive in this respect, for scarcely a day passed without receiving +from him some considerable donation. We now heard that there were other +great men of the island whom we had not as yet seen. Otago and Toobou, +in particular, mentioned a person named Mareewagee, who, they said, was +of the first consequence in the place, and held in great veneration, +nay, if Omai did not misunderstand them, superior even to Poulaho, to +whom he was related; but being old, lived in retirement, and therefore +would not visit us. Some of the natives even hinted that he was too +great a man to confer that honour upon us. This account exciting my +curiosity, I this day mentioned to Poulaho that I was very desirous of +waiting upon Mareewagee; and he readily agreed to accompany me to the +place of his residence the next morning. + +Accordingly, we set out pretty early in the pinnace, and Captain Clerke +joined me in one of his own boats. We proceeded round, that is, to the +eastward of the little isles that form the harbour, and then, turning to +the S., according to Poulaho's directions, entered a spacious bay or +inlet, up which we rowed about a league, and landed amidst a +considerable number of people, who received us with a sort of +acclamation, not unlike our huzzaing. They immediately separated, to let +Poulaho pass, who took us into a small inclosure, and shifted the piece +of cloth he wore for a new piece, neatly folded, that was carried by a +young man. An old woman assisted in dressing him, and put a mat over his +cloth, as we supposed, to prevent its being dirtied when he sat down. On +our now asking him where Mareewagee was, to our great surprise, he said +he had gone from the place to the ship just before we arrived. However, +he desired us to walk with him to a _malaee_, or house of public resort, +which stood about half a mile up the country. But when we came to a +large area before it, he sat down in the path, and desired us to walk up +to the house. We did so, and seated ourselves in front, while the crowd +that followed us filled up the rest of the space. After sitting a little +while, we repeated our enquiries, by means of Omai, Whether we were to +see Mareewagee? But receiving no satisfactory information, and +suspecting that the old chief was purposely concealed from us, we went +back to our boats much piqued at our disappointment; and when I got on +board I found that no such person had been there. It afterward appeared, +that in this affair we had laboured under some gross mistakes, and that +our interpreter Omai had either been misinformed, or, which is more +likely, had misunderstood what was told him about the great man, on +whose account we had made this excursion. + +The place we went to was a village, most delightfully situated on the +bank of the inlet, where all, or most of the principal persons of the +island reside, each having his house in the midst of a small plantation, +with lesser houses, and offices for servants. These plantations are +neatly fenced round; and, for the most part, have only one entrance. +This is by a door, fastened on the inside by a prop of wood, so that a +person has to knock before he can get admittance. Public roads, and +narrow lanes, lie between each plantation, so that no one trespasseth +upon another. Great part of some of these inclosures is laid out in +grass-plots, and planted with such things as seem more for ornament than +use; but hardly any were without the _kava_ plant, from which they make +their favourite liquor. Every article of the vegetable produce of the +island abounded in others of these plantations; but these, I observed, +are not the residence of people of the first rank. There are some large +houses near the public roads, with spacious smooth grass-plots before +them, and uninclosed. These, I was told, belonged to the king; and +probably they are the places where their public assemblies are held. It +was to one of these houses, as I have already mentioned, that we were +conducted soon after our landing at this place. + +About noon, the next day, this Mareewagee, of whom we had heard so much, +actually came to the neighbourhood of our post on shore, and with him a +very considerable number of people of all ranks. I was informed, that he +had taken this trouble on purpose to give me an opportunity of waiting +upon him; having probably heard of the displeasure I had shewn on my +disappointment the day before. In the afternoon, a party of us, +accompanied by Feenou, landed, to pay him a visit. We found a person +sitting under a large tree near the shore, a little to the right of the +tent. A piece of cloth, at least forty yards long, was spread before +him, round which a great number of people of both sexes were seated. It +was natural to suppose that this was the great man, but we were +undeceived by Feenou, who informed us that another, who sat on a piece +of mat, a little way from this chief, to the right hand, was Mareewagee, +and he introduced us to him, who received us very kindly, and desired us +to sit down by him. The person who sat under the tree, fronting us, was +called Toobou; and, when I have occasion to speak of him afterward, I +shall call him old Toobou, to distinguish him from his namesake, Captain +Furneaux's friend. Both he and Mareewagee had a venerable appearance. +The latter was a slender man, and, from his appearance, seemed to be +considerably above threescore years of age; the former was rather +corpulent, and almost blind with a disorder of his eyes, though not so +old. + +Not expecting to meet with two chiefs on this occasion, I had only +brought on shore a present for one. This I now found myself under a +necessity of dividing between them; but it happened to be pretty +considerable, and both of them seemed satisfied. After this, we +entertained them for about an hour with the performance of two French +horns and a drum. But they seemed most pleased with the firing off a +pistol, which Captain Clerke had in his pocket. Before I took my leave, +the large piece of cloth was rolled up, and, with a few cocoa-nuts, +presented to me. + +The next morning old Toobou returned my visit on board the ship. He also +visited Captain Clerke; and if the present we made to him the evening +before was scanty, the deficiency was now made up. During this time +Mareewagee visited our people ashore, and Mr King shewed to him, every +thing we had there. He viewed the cattle with great admiration, and the +cross-cut saw fixed his attention for some time. + +Toward noon Poulaho returned from the place where we had left, him two +days before, and brought with him his son, a youth about twelve years of +age. I had his company at dinner; but the son, though present, was not +allowed to sit down with him. It was very convenient to have him for my +guest. For when he was present, which was generally the case while we +stayed here, every other native was excluded from the table, and but few +of them would remain in the cabin. Whereas, if by chance it happened +that neither he nor Feenou were on board, the inferior chiefs would be +very importunate to be of our dining party, or to be admitted into the +cabin at that time, and then we were so crowded that we could not sit +down to a meal with any satisfaction. The king was very soon reconciled +to our manner of cookery. But still I believe he dined thus frequently +with me more for the sake of what we gave him to drink, than for what we +set before him to eat. For he had taken a liking to our wine, could +empty his bottle as well as most men, and was as cheerful over it. He +now fixed his residence at the house, or _malaee_, by our tent; and +there he entertained our people this evening with a dance. To the +surprise of every body the unwieldy Poulaho endeavoured to vie with +others in that active amusement. + +In the morning of the 15th I received a message from old Toobou that he +wanted to see me ashore. Accordingly Omai and I went to wait upon him. +We found him, like an ancient patriarch, seated under the shade of a +tree, with a large piece of the cloth, made in the island, spread out at +full length before him, and a number of respectably looking people +sitting round it. He desired us to place ourselves by him; and then he +told Omai, that the cloth, together with a piece of red feathers, and +about a dozen cocoa-nuts, were his present to me. I thanked him for the +favour, and desired he would go on board with me, as I had nothing on +shore to give him in return. + +Omai now left me, being sent for by Penlaho; and soon after Feenou came, +and acquainted me that young Fattafaihe, Poulaho's son, desired to see +me. I obeyed the summons, and found the prince and Omai sitting under a +large canopy of the finer sort of cloth, with a piece of the coarser +sort spread under them and before them, that was seventy-six yards long, +and seven and a half broad. On one side was a large old boar, and on the +other side a heap of cocoa-nuts. A number of people were seated round +the cloth, and amongst them I observed Mareewagee, and others of the +first rank. I was desired to sit down by the prince; and then Omai +informed me, that he had been instructed by the king to tell me, that, +as he and I were friends, he hoped that his son might be joined in this +friendship, and that, as a token of my consent, I would accept of his +present. I very readily agreed to the proposal; and it being now dinner +time, I invited them all on board. + +Accordingly, the young prince, Mareewagee, old Toobou, three or four +inferior chiefs, and two respectable old ladies of the first rank, +accompanied me. Mareewagee was dressed in a new piece of cloth, on the +skirts of which were fixed six pretty large patches of red feathers. +This dress seemed to have been made on purpose for this visit; for, as +soon as he got on board, he put it off, and presented it to me; having, +I guess, heard that it would be acceptable, on account of the feathers. +Every one of my visitors received from me such presents, as, I had +reason to believe, they were highly satisfied with. When dinner came +upon table, not one of them would sit down, or eat a bit, of any thing +that was served up. On expressing my surprise at this, they were all +_taboo_, as they said; which word has a very comprehensive meanings but, +in general, signifies that a thing is forbidden. Why they were laid +under such restraints, at present, was not explained. Dinner being over, +and, having gratified their curiosity, by shewing to them every part of +the ship, I then conducted them ashore. + +As soon as the boat reached the beach, Feenou, and some others, +instantly stepped out. Young Fattafaihe following them, was called back +by Mareewagee, who now paid the heir-apparent the same obeisance, and in +the same manner, that I had seen it paid to the king. And when old +Toobou, and one of the old ladies, had shewn him the same marks of +respect, he was suffered to land. This ceremony being over, the old +people stepped from my boat into a canoe that was waiting to carry them +to their place of abode. + +I was not sorry to be present on this occasion, as I was thus furnished +with the most unequivocal proofs of the supreme dignity of Poulaho and +his son, over the other principal chiefs. Indeed, by this time, I had +acquired some certain information about the relative situations of the +several great men, whose names have been so often mentioned. I now knew, +that Mareewagee and old Toobou were brothers. Both of them were men of +great property in the island, and seemed to be in high estimation with +the people; the former, in particular, had the very honourable +appellation given to him, by every body, of _Motooa Tonga_; that is to +say, Father of Tonga, or of his country. The nature of his relationship +to the king was also no longer a secret to us; for we now understood, +that he was his father-in-law; Poulaho having married one of his +daughters, by whom he had this son; so that Mareewagee was the prince's +grandfather. Poulaho's appearance having satisfied us, that we had been +under a mistake in considering Feenou as the sovereign of these islands, +we had been, at first, much puzzled about his real rank; but that was, +by this time, ascertained. Feenou was one of Mareewagee's sons; and +Tooboueitoa was another. + +On my landing, I found the king, in the house adjoining to our tent, +along with our people who resided on shore. The moment I got to him, he +bestowed upon me a present of a large hog and a quantity of yams. About +the dusk of the evening, a number of men came, and, having sat down in a +round group, began to sing in concert with the music of bamboo drums, +which were placed in the centre.[165] There were three long ones, and +two short. With these they struck the ground endwise, as before +described. There were two others, which lay on the ground, side by side, +and one of them was split or shivered; on these a man kept beating with +two small sticks. They sung three songs while I stayed; and, I was told, +that, after I left them, the entertainment lasted till ten o'clock. They +burnt the leaves of the _wharra_ palm for a light; which is the only +thing I ever saw them make use of for this purpose. + +[Footnote 165: The same sort of evening concert is performed round the +house of the chief, or _Tamole_, at the Caroline Islands. "Le _Tamole_ +ne s'endort qu'au bruit d'un concert de musique que forme une troupe de +jeunes gens, qui s'assemblent le soir, autour de sa maison, et qui +chantent, a leur maniere, certaines poesies."--_Lettres Edifiantes & +Curieuses_, tom, xv. p. 314.--D.] + +While I was passing the day in attendance on these great men, Mr +Anderson, with some others, made an excursion into the country, which +furnished him with the following remarks: "To the westward of the tent, +the country is totally uncultivated for near two miles, though quite +covered with trees and bushes, in a natural state, growing with the +greatest vigour. Beyond this is a pretty large plain, on which are some +cocoa-trees, and a few small plantations that appear to have been lately +made; and, seemingly, on ground that has never been cultivated before. +Near the creek, which runs to the westward of the tent, the land is +quite flat, and partly overflowed by the sea every tide. When that +retires, the surface is seen to be composed of coral rock, with holes of +yellowish mud scattered up and down; and toward the edges, where it is a +little firmer, are innumerable little openings, from which issue as many +small crabs, of two or three different sorts, which swarm upon the spot, +as flies upon a carcase; but are so nimble, that, on being approached, +they disappear in an instant, and baffle even the natives to catch any +of them. + +At this place is a work of art, which shews that these people are +capable of some design, and perseverance, when they mean to accomplish +any thing. This work begins, on one side, as a narrow causeway, which, +becoming gradually broader, rises, with a gentle ascent, to the height +of ten feet, where it is five paces broad, and the whole length +seventy-four paces. Joined to this is a sort of circus, whose diameter +is thirty paces, and not above a foot or two higher than the causeway +that joins it, with some trees planted in the middle. On the opposite +side, another causeway of the same sort descends; but this is not above +forty paces long, and is partly in ruin. The whole is built with large +coral stones, with earth on the surface, which is quite overgrown with +low trees and shrubs; and, from its decaying in several places, seems to +be of no modern date. Whatever may have been its use formerly, it seems +to be of none now; and all that we could learn of it from the natives +was, that it belonged to Poulaho, and is called _Etchee_. + +On the 16th, in the morning, after visiting the several works now +carrying on ashore, Mr Gore and I took a walk into the country; in the +course of which nothing remarkable appeared, but our having +opportunities of seeing the whole process of making cloth, which is the +principal manufacture of these islands, as well as of many others in +this ocean. In the narrative of my first voyage, a minute description is +given of this operation, as performed at Otaheite; but the process, +here, differing in some particulars, it may be worth while to give the +following account of it: + +The manufacturers, who are females, take the slender stalks or trunks of +the paper-mulberry, which they cultivate for that purpose, and which +seldom grow more than six or seven feet in height, and about four +fingers in thickness. From these they strip the bark, and scrape off +the outer rind with a muscle-shell. The bark is then rolled up, to take +off the convexity which it had round the stalk, and macerated in water +for some time (they say, a night). After this, it is laid across the +trunk of a small tree squared, and beaten with a square wooden +instrument, about a foot long, full of coarse grooves on all sides; but, +sometimes, with one that is plain. According to the size of the bark, a +piece is soon produced; but the operation is often repeated by another +hand, or it is folded several times, and beat longer, which seems rather +intended to close than to divide its texture. When this is sufficiently +effected, it is spread out to dry; the pieces being from four to six, or +more, feet in length, and half as broad. They are then given to another +person, who joins the pieces, by smearing part of them over with the +viscous juice of a berry, called _tooo_, which serves as a glue. Having +been thus lengthened, they are laid over a large piece of wood, with a +kind of stamp, made of a fibrous substance pretty closely interwoven, +placed beneath. They then take a bit of cloth, and dip it in a juice, +expressed from the bark of a tree, called _kokka_, which they rub +briskly upon the piece that is making. This, at once, leaves a dull +brown colour, and a dry gloss upon its surface; the stamp, at the same +time, making a slight impression, that answers no other purpose, that I +could see, but to make the several pieces, that are glued together, +stick a little more firmly. In this manner they proceed, joining and +staining by degrees, till they produce a piece of cloth, of such length +and breadth as they want; generally leaving a border, of a foot broad, +at the sides, and longer at the ends, unstained. Throughout the whole, +if any parts of the original pieces are too thin, or have holes, which +is often the case, they glue spare bits upon them, till they become of +an equal thickness. When they want to produce a black colour, they mix +the soot procured from an oily nut, called _dooedooe_, with the juice of +the _kokka_, in different quantities, according to the proposed depth of +the tinge. They say, that the black sort of cloth, which is commonly +most glazed, makes a cold dress, but the other a warm one; and, to +obtain strength in both, they are always careful to join the small +pieces lengthwise, which makes it impossible to tear the cloth in any +direction but one. + +On our return from the country, we met with Feenou, and took him, and +another young chief, on board to dinner. When our fare was set upon the +table, neither of them would eat a bit; saying, that they were _taboo +avy_. But, after enquiring how the victuals had been dressed, having +found that no _avy_ (water) had been used in cooking a pig; and some +yams, they both sat down, and made a very hearty meal; and, on being +assured that there was no water in the wine, they drank of it also. From +this we conjectured, that, on some account or another, they were, at +this time, forbidden to use water; or, which was more probable, they did +not like the water we made use of, it being taken up out of one of their +bathing-places. This was not the only time of our meeting with people +that were _taboo avy_; but, for what reason, we never could tell with +any degree of certainty. + +Next day, the 17th, was fixed upon by Mareewagee, for giving a grand +_Haiva_, or entertainment, to which we were all invited. For this +purpose a large space had been cleared, before the temporary hut of this +chief, near our post, as an area where the performances were to be +exhibited. In the morning, great multitudes of the natives came in from +the country, every one carrying a pole, about six feet long, upon his +shoulder; and at each end of every pole, a yam was suspended. These yams +and poles were deposited on each side of the area, so as to form two +large heaps, decorated with different sorts of small fish, and piled up +to the greatest advantage. They were Mareewagee's present to Captain +Clerke and me; and it was hard to say, whether the wood for fuel, or the +yams for food, were of most value to us. As for the fish, they might +serve to please the sight, but were very offensive to the smell; part of +them having been kept two or three days, to be presented to us on this +occasion. + +Every thing being thus prepared, about eleven o'clock they began to +exhibit various dances, which they call _mai_. The music[166] consisted, +at first, of seventy men as a chorus, who sat down; and amidst them were +placed three instruments, which we called drums, though very unlike +them. They are large cylindrical pieces of wood, or trunks of trees, +from three to four feet long, some twice as thick as an ordinary sized +man, and some smaller, hollowed entirely out, but close at both ends, +and open only by a chink, about three inches broad, running almost the +whole length of the drums; by which opening, the rest of the wood is +certainly hollowed, though the operation must be difficult. This +instrument is called _naffa_; and, with the chink turned toward them, +they sit and beat strongly upon it, with two cylindrical pieces of hard +wood, about a foot long, and as thick as the wrist; by which means they +produce a rude, though loud and powerful sound. They vary the strength +and rate of their beating, at different parts of the dance; and also +change the tones, by beating in the middle, or near the end, of their +drum. + +[Footnote 166: Mr Anderson's description of the entertainments of this +day being much fuller than Captain Cook's, it has been adopted, as on a +former occasion.--D.] + +The first dance consisted of four ranks, of twenty-four men each, +holding in their hands a little, thin, light, wooden instrument, above +two feet long, and, in shape, not unlike a small oblong paddle. With +these, which are called _pagge_, they made a great many different +motions; such as pointing them toward the ground on one side, at the +same time inclining their bodies that way, from which they were shifted +to the opposite side in the same manner; then passing them quickly from +one hand to the other, and twirling them about very dextrously; with a +variety of other manoeuvres, all which were accompanied by corresponding +attitudes of the body. Their motions were, at first, slow, but quickened +as the drums beat faster; and they recited sentences, in a musical tone, +the whole time, which were answered by the chorus; but at the end of a +short space they all joined, and finished with a shout. + +After ceasing about two or three minutes, they began as before, and +continued, with short intervals, above a quarter of an hour; when the +rear rank dividing, shifted themselves very slowly round each end, and, +meeting in the front, formed the first rank; the whole number continuing +to recite the sentences as before. The other ranks did the same +successively, till that which, at first, was the front, became the rear; +and the evolution continued, in the same manner, till the last rank +regained its first situation. They then began a much quicker dance +(though slow at first), and sung for about ten minutes, when the whole +body divided into two parts, retreated a little, and then approached, +forming a sort of circular figure, which finished the dance; the drums +being removed, and the chorus going off the field at the same time. + +The second dance had only two drums, with forty men for a chorus; and +the dancers, or rather actors, consisted of two ranks, the foremost +having seventeen, and the other fifteen persons. Feenou was at their +head, or in the middle of the front rank, which is the principal place +in these cases. They danced and recited sentences, with some very short +intervals, for about half an hour, sometimes quickly, sometimes more +slowly, but with such a degree of exactness, as if all the motions were +made by one man, which did them great credit. Near the close, the back +rank divided, came round, and took the place of the front, which, again +resumed its situation, as in the first dance; and when they finished, +the drums and chorus, as before, went off. + +Three drums (which, at least, took two, and sometimes three men to carry +them) were now brought in; and seventy men sat down as a chorus to the +third dance. This consisted of two ranks, of sixteen persons each, with +young Toobou at their head, who was richly ornamented with a sort of +garment covered with red feathers. These danced, sung, and twirled the +_pagge_, as before; but, in general, much quicker, and performed so +well, that they had the constant applauses of the spectators. A motion +that met with particular approbation, was one in which they held the +face aside, as if ashamed, and the _pagge_ before it. The back rank +closed before the front one, and that again resumed its place, as in the +two former dances; but then they began again, formed a triple row, +divided, retreated to each end of the area, and left the greatest part +of the ground clear. At that instant, two men entered very hastily, and +exercised the clubs which they use in battle. They did this, by first +twirling them in their hands, and making circular strokes before them +with great force and quickness; but so skilfully managed, that, though +standing quite close, they never interfered. They shifted their clubs +from hand to hand, with great dexterity; and, after continuing a little +time, kneeled, and made different motions, tossing the clubs up in the +air, which they caught as they fell; and then went off as hastily as +they entered. Their heads were covered with pieces of white cloth, tied +at the crown (almost like a night-cap) with a wreath of foliage round +the forehead; but they had only very small pieces of white cloth tied +about their waists; probably, that they might be cool, and free from +every encumbrance or weight. A person with a spear, dressed like the +former, then came in, and in the same hasty manner; looking about +eagerly, as if in search of somebody to throw it at. He then ran +hastily to one side of the crowd in the front, and put himself in a +threatening attitude, as if he meant to strike with his spear at one of +them, bending the knee a little, and trembling, as it were with rage. He +continued in this manner only a few seconds, when he moved to the other +side, and having stood in the same posture there, for the same short +time, retreated from the ground, as fast as when he made his appearance. +The dancers, who had divided into two parties, kept repeating something +slowly all this while: and now advanced, and joined again, ending with +universal applause. It should seem that this dance was considered as one +of their capital performances, if we might judge from some of the +principal people being engaged in it. For one of the drums was beat by +Futtafaihe, the brother of Poulaho, another by Feenou, and the third, +which did not belong to the chorus, by Mareewagee himself, at the +entrance of his hut. + +The last dance had forty men, and two drums, as a chorus. It consisted +of sixty men, who had not danced before, disposed in three rows, having +twenty-four in front. But, before they began, we were entertained with a +pretty long preliminary harangue, in which the whole body made responses +to a single person who spoke. They recited sentences (perhaps verses) +alternately with the chorus, and made many motions with the _pagge_, in +a very brisk mode, which were all applauded with _mareeai!_ and +_fufogge!_ words expressing two different degrees of praise. They +divided into two bodies, with their backs to each other; formed again, +shifted their ranks, as in the other dances; divided and retreated, +making room for two champions, who exercised their clubs as before; and +after them two others; the dancers, all the time, reciting slowly in +turn with the chorus; after which they advanced and finished. + +These dances, if they can properly be called so, lasted from eleven till +near three o'clock; and though they were, doubtless, intended, +particularly, either in honour of us, or to shew a specimen of their +dexterity, vast numbers of their own people attended as spectators. +Their numbers could not be computed exactly, on account of the +inequality of the ground; but, by reckoning the inner circle, and the +number in depth, which was between twenty and thirty in many places, we +supposed that there must be near four thousand. At the same time, there +were round the trading place at the tent, and straggling about, at least +as many more; and some of us computed, that, aft this time, there were +no less than ten or twelve thousand people in our neighbourhood; that +is, within the compass of a quarter of a mile; drawn together, for the +most part, by mere curiosity. + +It is with regret I mention, that we could not understand what was +spoken, while we were able to see what was acted, in these amusements. +This, doubtless, would have afforded us much information, as to the +genius and customs of these people. It was observable, that, though the +spectators always approved of the various motions, when well made, a +great share of the pleasure they received seemed to arise from the +sentimental part, or what the performers delivered in their speeches. +However, the mere acting part, independently of the sentences repeated, +was well worth our notice, both with respect to the extensive plan on +which it was executed, and to the various motions, as well as the exact +unity, with which they were performed. Neither pencil nor pen can +describe the numerous actions and motions, the singularity of which was +not greater, than was the ease and gracefulness with which they were +performed. + +At night, we were entertained with the _bomai_, or night dances, on a +space before Feenou's temporary habitation. They lasted about three +hours; in which time we had about twelve of them performed, much after +the same manner as those at Hepaee. But, in two, that were performed by +women, a number of men came and formed a circle within their's. And, in +another, consisting of twenty-four men, there were a number of motions +with the hands, that we had not seen before, and were highly applauded. +The music was, also, once changed, in the course of the night; and in +one of the dances, Feenou appeared at the head of fifty men who had +performed at Hepaee, and he was well dressed with linen, a large piece +of gauze, and some little pictures hung round his neck. But it was +evident, after the diversions were closed, that we had put these poor +people, or rather that they had put themselves, to much inconvenience. +For being drawn together on this uninhabited part of their island, +numbers of them were obliged to lie down and sleep under the bushes, by +the side of a tree, or of a canoe; nay, many either lay down in the open +air, which they are not fond of, or walked about all the night. + +The whole of this entertainment was conducted with far better order, +than could have been expected in so large an assembly. Amongst such a +multitude, there must be a number of ill-disposed people; and we, +hourly, experienced it. All our care and attention did not prevent their +plundering us, in every quarter; and that in the most daring and +insolent manner. There was hardly any thing that they did not attempt to +steal; and yet, as the crowd was always so great, I would not allow the +sentries to fire, lest the innocent should suffer for the guilty. They +once, at noon day, ventured to aim at taking an anchor from off the +Discovery's bows; and they would certainly have succeeded, if the flook +had not hooked one of the chain-plates in lowering down the ship's side, +from which they could not disengage it by hand; and tackles were things +they were unacquainted with. The only act of violence they were guilty +of, was the breaking the shoulder-bone of one of our goats, so that she +died soon after. This loss fell upon themselves, as she was one of those +that I intended to leave upon the island; but of this, the person who +did it was ignorant. + +Early in the morning of the 18th, an incident happened, that strongly +marked one of their customs. A man got out of a canoe into the quarter +gallery of the Resolution, and stole from thence a pewter bason. He was +discovered, pursued, and brought alongside the ship. On this occasion, +three old women, who were in the canoe, made loud lamentations over the +prisoner, beating their breasts and faces in a most violent manner, with +the inside of their fists; and all this was done without shedding a +tear. This mode of expressing grief is what occasions the mark which +almost all this people bear on the face, over the cheek-bones. The +repeated blows which they inflict upon this part, abrade the skin, and +make even the blood flow out in a considerable quantity; and when the +wounds are recent, they look as if a hollow circle had been burnt in. On +many occasions, they actually cut this part of the face with an +instrument, in the same manner as the people of Otaheite cut their +heads. + +This day, I bestowed on Mareewagee some presents, in return for those we +had received from him the day before; and as the entertainments which he +had then exhibited for our amusement, called upon us to make some +exhibition in our way, I ordered the party of marines to go through +their exercise on the spot where his dances had been performed; and, in +the evening, played off some fire-works at the same place. Poulaho, with +all the principal chiefs, and a great number of people, of all +denominations, were present. The platoon firing, which was executed +tolerably well, seemed to give them pleasure; but they were lost in +astonishment when they beheld our water-rockets. They paid but little +attention to the fife and drum, or French horns that played during the +intervals. The king sat behind every body, because no one is allowed to +sit behind him; and, that his view might not be obstructed, nobody sat +immediately before him; but a lane, as it were, was made by the people +from him, quite down to the space allotted for the fire-works. + +In expectation of this evening show, the circle of natives about our +tent being pretty large, they engaged, the greatest part of the +afternoon, in boxing and wrestling; the first of which exercises they +call _fangatooa_, and the second _foohoo_. When any of them chooses to +wrestle, he gets up from one side of the ring, and crosses the ground in +a sort of measured pace, clapping smartly on the elbow joint of one arm, +which is bent, and produces a hollow sound; that is reckoned the +challenge. If no person comes out from the opposite side to engage him, +he returns in the same manner, and sits down; but sometimes stands +clapping in the midst of the ground, to provoke some one to come out. If +an opponent appear, they come together with marks of the greatest +good-nature, generally smiling, and taking time to adjust the piece of +cloth which is fastened round the waist. They then lay hold of each +other by this girdle, with a hand on each side; and he who succeeds in +drawing his antagonist to him, immediately tries to lift him upon his +breast, and throw him upon his back; and if he be able to turn round +with him two or three times, in that position, before he throws him, his +dexterity never fails of procuring plaudits from the spectators. If they +be more equally matched, they close soon, and endeavour to throw each +other by entwining their legs, or lifting each other from the ground; in +which struggles they shew a prodigious exertion of strength, every +muscle, as it were, being ready to burst with straining. When one is +thrown, he immediately quits the field, but the victor sits down for a +few seconds, then gets up, and goes to the side he came from, who +proclaim the victory aloud, in a sentence delivered slowly, and in a +musical cadence. After sitting a short space, he rises again and +challenges; when some-times several antagonists make their appearance; +but he has the privilege of choosing which of them he pleases to +wrestle with; and has, likewise, the preference of challenging again, if +he should throw his adversary, until he himself be vanquished; and then +the opposite side sing the song of victory in favour of their champion. +It also often happens, that five or six rise from each side, and +challenge together; in which case, it is common to see three or four +couple engaged on the field at once. But it is astonishing to see what +temper they preserve in this exercise; for we observed no instances of +their leaving the spot, with the least displeasure in their +countenances. When they find that they are so equally matched as not to +be likely to throw each other, they leave off by mutual consent. And if +the fall of one is not fair, or if it does not appear very clearly who +has had the advantage, both sides sing the victory, and then they engage +again. But no person, who has been vanquished, can engage with his +conqueror a second time. + +The boxers advance side-ways, changing the side at every pace, with one +arm stretched fully out before, the other behind; and holding a piece of +cord in one hand, which they wrap firmly about it, when they find an +antagonist, or else have done so before they enter. This, I imagine, +they do, to prevent a dislocation of the hand or fingers. Their blows +are directed chiefly to the head; but sometimes to the sides; and are +dealt out with great activity. They shift sides, and box equally well +with both hands. But one of their favourite and most dextrous blows, is, +to turn round on their heel, just as they have struck their antagonist, +and to give him another very smart one with the other hand backward. + +The boxing matches seldom last long; and the parties either leave off +together, or one acknowledges his being beat. But they never sing the +song of victory in these cases, unless one strikes his adversary to the +ground; which shews, that, of the two, wrestling is their most approved +diversion. Not only boys engage, in both the exercises, but frequently +little girls box very obstinately for a short time. In all which cases, +it doth not appear, that they ever consider it as the smallest disgrace +to be vanquished; and the person overcome sits down, with as much +indifference, as if he had never entered the lists. Some of our people +ventured to contend with them in both exercises, but were always +worsted; except in a few instances, where it appeared, that the fear +they were in of offending us, contributed more to the victory, than the +superiority of the person they engaged. + +The cattle, which we had brought, and which were all on shore, however +carefully guarded, I was sensible, run no small risk, when I considered +the thievish disposition of many of the natives, and their dexterity in +appropriating to themselves, by stealth, what they saw no prospect of +obtaining by fair means. For this reason, I thought it prudent to +declare my intention of leaving behind me some of our animals; and even +to make a distribution of them previously to my departure. + +With this view, in the evening of the 19th, I assembled all the chiefs +before our house, and my intended presents to them were marked out. To +Poulaho, the king, I gave a young English bull and cow; to Mareewagee, a +Cape ram, and two ewes; and to Feenou, a horse and a mare. As my design, +to make such a distribution, had been made known the day before, most of +the people in the neighbourhood were then present. I instructed Omai to +tell them, that there were no such animals within many months sail of +their island; that we had brought them, for their use, from that immense +distance, at a vast trouble and expence; that, therefore, they must be +careful not to kill any of them, till they had multiplied to a numerous +race; and, lastly, that they and their children ought to remember, that +they had received them from the men of _Britane_. He also explained to +them their several uses, and what else was necessary for them to know, +or rather as far as he knew; for Omai was not very well versed in such +things himself. As I intended that the above presents should remain with +the other cattle, till we were ready to sail, I desired each of the +chiefs to send a man or two to look after their respective animals, +along with my people, in order that they might be better acquainted with +them, and with the manner of treating them. The king and Feenou did so; +but neither Mareewagee, nor any other person for him, took the least +notice of the sheep afterward; nor did old Toobou attend at this +meeting, though he was invited, and was in the neighbourhood. I had +meant to give him the goats, viz. a ram and two ewes; which, as he was +so indifferent about them, I added to the king's share. + +It soon appeared, that some were dissatisfied with this allotment of +our animals; for, early next morning, one of our kids, and two +turkey-cocks, were missing. I could not be so simple as to suppose, that +this was merely an accidental loss; and I was determined to have them +again. The first step I took was to seize on three canoes that happened +to be alongside the ships. I then went ashore, and, having found the +king, his brother, Feenou, and some other chiefs, in the house that we +occupied, I immediately put a guard over them, and gave them to +understand, that they must remain under restraint, till not only the kid +and the turkeys, but the other things that had been stolen from us, at +different times, were restored. They concealed, as well as they could, +their feelings, on finding themselves prisoners; and, having assured me, +that every thing should be restored, as I desired, sat down to drink +their _kava_, seemingly much at their ease. It was not long before an +axe, and an iron wedge, were brought to me. In the mean time, some armed +natives began to gather behind the house; but, on a part of our guard +marching against them, they dispersed; and I advised the chiefs to give +orders, that no more should appear. Such orders were accordingly given +by them, and they were obeyed. On asking them to go aboard with me to +dinner, they readily consented. But some having afterward objected to +the king's going, he instantly rose up, and declared he would be the +first man. Accordingly we came on board. I kept them there till near +four o'clock, when I conducted them ashore; and, soon after, the kid, +and one of the turkey-cocks, were brought back. The other, they said, +should be restored the next morning. I believed this would happen, and +released both them and the canoes. + +After the chiefs had left us, I walked out with Omai, to observe how the +people about us fared; for this was the time of their meals. I found +that, in general, they were at short commons. Nor is this to be wondered +at, since most of the yams, and other provisions which they brought with +them, were sold to us; and they never thought of returning to their own +habitations, while they could find any sort of subsistence in our +neighbourhood. Our station was upon an uncultivated point of land; so +that there were none of the islanders, who, properly, resided within +half a mile of us. But, even at this distance, the multitude of +strangers being so great, one might have expected, that every house +would have been much crowded. It was quite otherwise. The families +residing there were as much left to themselves, as if there had not been +a supernumerary visitor near them. All the strangers lived in little +temporary sheds, or under trees and bushes; and the cocoa-trees were +stripped of their branches, to erect habitations for the chiefs. + +In this walk we met with about half a dozen women, in one place, at +supper. Two of the company, I observed, being fed by the others, on our +asking the reason, they said _taboo mattee_. On farther enquiry we +found, that one of them had, two months before, washed the dead corpse +of a chief; and that, on this account, she was not to handle any food +for five months. The other had performed the same office to the corpse +of another person of inferior rank, and was now under the same +restriction; but not for so long a time. At another place, hard by, we +saw another woman fed; and we learnt, that she had assisted in washing +the corpse of the above-mentioned chief. + +Early the next morning, the king came on board, to invite me to an +entertainment, which he proposed to give the same day. He had already +been under the barber's hands; his head being all besmeared with red +pigment, in order to redden his hair, which was naturally of a +dark-brown colour. After breakfast, I attended him to the shore; and we +found his people very busy, in two places, in the front of our area, +fixing, in an upright and square position, thus [::], four very long +posts, near two feet from each other. The space between the posts was +afterward filled up with yams; and as they went on filling it, they +fastened pieces of sticks across, from post to post, at the distance of +about every four feet, to prevent the posts from separating by the +weight of the inclosed yams, and also to get up by. When the yams had +reached the top of the first posts, they fastened others to them, and so +continued till each pile was the height of thirty feet, or upward. On +the top of one, they placed two baked hogs; and on the top of the other, +a living one; and another they tied by the legs, half-way up. It was +matter of curiosity to observe, with what facility and dispatch these +two piles were raised. Had our seamen been ordered to execute such a +work, they would have sworn that it could not be performed without +carpenters; and the carpenters would have called to their aid a dozen +different sorts of tools, and have expended, at least, a hundred weight +of nails; and, after all, it would have employed them as many days as it +did these people hours. But seamen, like most other amphibious animals, +are always the most helpless on land. After they had completed these two +piles, they made several other heaps of yams and bread-fruit on each +side of the area; to which were added a turtle, and a large quantity of +excellent fish. All this, with a piece of cloth, a mat, and some red +feathers, was the king's present to me; and he seemed to pique himself +on exceeding, as he really did, Feenou's liberality, which I experienced +at Hepaee. + +About one o'clock they began the _mai_, or dances; the first of which +was almost a copy of the first that was exhibited at Mareewagee's +entertainment. The second was conducted by Captain Furneaux's Toobou, +who, as we mentioned, had also danced there; and in this, four or five +women were introduced, who went through the several parts with as much +exactness as the men. Toward the end, the performers divided to leave +room for two champions, who exercised their clubs, as described on a +former occasion. And, in the third dance, which was the last now +presented, two more men, with their clubs, displayed their dexterity. +The dances were succeeded by wrestling and boxing; and one man entered +the lists with a sort of club, made from the stem of a cocoa-leaf, which +is firm and heavy; but could find no antagonist to engage him at so +rough a sport. At night we had the _bomai_ repeated; in which Poulaho +himself danced, dressed in English manufacture. But neither these, nor +the dances in the daytime, were so considerable, nor carried on with so +much spirit, as Feenou's, or Mareewagee's; and, therefore, there is less +occasion to be more particular in our description of them. + +In order to be present the whole time, I dined ashore. The king sat down +with us, but he neither ate nor drank. I found that this was owing to +the presence of a female, whom, at his desire, I had admitted to the +dining-party; and who, as we afterward understood, had superior rank to +himself. As soon as this great personage had dined, she stepped up to +the king, who put his hands to her feet, and then she retired. He +immediately dipped his fingers into a glass of wine, and then received +the obeisance of all her followers. This was the single instance we +ever observed of his paying this mark of reverence to any person. At the +king's desire, I ordered some fire-works to be played off in the +evening; but, unfortunately, being damaged; this exhibition did not +answer expectation. + + +SECTION VIII. + +_Some of the Officers plundered by the Natives.--A fishing Party.--A +Visit to Poulaho.--A Fiatooka described.--Observations on the Country +Entertainments at Poulaho's House.--His Mourning Ceremony.--Of the Kava +Plant, and the Manner of preparing the Liquor.--Account of Onevy, a +little Island.--One of the Natives wounded by a Sentinel.--Messrs King +and Anderson visit the Kings Brother.--Their Entertainment.--Another +Mourning Ceremony.--Manner of passing the Night.--Remarks on the Country +they passed through.--Preparations made for Sailing.--An Eclipse of the +Sun, imperfectly observed.--Mr Anderson's Account of the Island, and its +Productions_. + + +As no more entertainments were to be expected on either side, and the +curiosity of the populace was, by this time, pretty well satisfied, on +the day after Poulaho's _haiva_, most of them left us. We still, +however, had thieves about us; and, encouraged by the negligence of our +own people, we had continual instances of their depredations. + +Some of the officers, belonging to both ships, who had made an excursion +into the interior parts of the island, without my leave, and, indeed, +without my knowledge, returned this evening, after an absence of two +days. They had taken with them their musquets, with the necessary +ammunition, and several small articles of the favourite commodities; all +which the natives had the dexterity to steal from them in the course of +their expedition. This affair was likely to be attended with +inconvenient consequences. For our plundered travellers, upon their +return, without consulting me, employed Omai to complain to the king of +the treatment they had met with. He, not knowing what step I should +take, and, from what had already happened, fearing lest I might lay him +again under restraint, went off early the next morning. His example was +followed by Feenou; so that we had not a chief of any authority +remaining in our neighbourhood. I was very much displeased at this, and +reprimanded Omai for having presumed to meddle. This reprimand put him +upon his mettle to bring his friend Feenou hack; and he succeeded in the +negociation, having this powerful argument to urge, that he might depend +upon my using no violent measures to oblige the natives to restore what +had been taken from the gentlemen. Feenou, trusting to this declaration, +returned toward the evening; and, encouraged by the reception, Poulaho +favoured us with his company the day after. Both these chiefs, upon this +occasion, very justly observed to me, that, if any of my people, at any +time, wanted to go into the country, they ought to be acquainted with +it; in which case they would send proper people along with them; and +then they would be answerable for their safety. And I am convinced, from +experience, that, by taking this very reasonable precaution, a man and +his property may be as safe among these islanders, as in other parts of +the more civilized world. Though I gave myself no trouble about the +recovery of the things stolen upon this occasion, most of them, through +Feenou's interposition, were recovered, except one musquet, and a few +other articles of inferior value. By this time, also, we had recovered +the turkey-cock, and most of the tools, and other matters, that had been +stolen from our workmen. + +On the 25th, two boats, which I had sent to look for a channel, by which +we might, most commodiously, get to sea, returned. The masters, who +commanded them, reported, that the channel to the north, by which we +came in, was highly dangerous, being full of coral rocks from one side +to the other; but that, to the eastward, there was a very good channel, +which, however, was very much contracted in one place by the small +islands, so that a leading wind would be requisite to get through it; +that is, a westerly wind, which, we had found, did not often blow here. +We had now recruited the ships with wood and water, we had finished the +repairs of our sails, and had little more to expect from the inhabitants +of the produce of their island. However, as an eclipse of the sun was to +happen upon the 5th of next month, I resolved to defer sailing till that +time had elapsed, in order to have a chance of observing it. + +Having, therefore, some days of leisure before me, a party of us, +accompanied by Poulaho, set out, early next morning, in a boat for Mooa, +the village where he and the other great men usually reside. As we rowed +up the inlet, we met with fourteen canoes fishing in company, in one of +which was Poulaho's son. In each canoe was a triangular net, extended +between two poles; at the lower end of which was a cod to receive and +secure the fish. They had already caught some fine mullets, and they put +about a dozen into our boat. I desired to see their method of fishing, +which they readily complied with. A shoal of fish was supposed to be +upon one of the banks, which they instantly inclosed in a long net like +a seine, or set-net. This the fishers, one getting into the water out of +each boat, surrounded with the triangular nets in their hands, with +which they scooped the fish out of the seine, or caught them as they +attempted to leap over it. They shewed us the whole process of this +operation, (which seemed to be a sure one,) by throwing in some of the +fish they had already caught; for, at this time, there happened to be +none upon the bank that was inclosed. + +Leaving the prince and his fishing party, we proceeded to the bottom of +the bay, and landed where we had done before, on our fruitless errand to +see Mareewagee. As soon as we got on shore, the king desired Omai to +tell me, that I need be under no apprehensions about the boat, or any +thing in her, for not a single article would be touched by any one; and +we afterward found this to be the case. We were immediately conducted to +one of Poulaho's houses not far off, and near the public one, or +_malaee_, in which we had been, when we first visited Mooa. This, though +pretty large, seemed to be his private habitation, and was situated +within a plantation. The king took his seat at one end of the house, and +the people who came to visit him, sat down, as they arrived, in a +semicircle at the other end. The first thing done, was to prepare a bowl +of _kava_, and to order some yams to be baked for us. While these were +getting ready, some of us, accompanied by a few of the king's +attendants, and Omai as our interpreter, walked out to take a view of a +_fiatooka_, or burying-place, which we had observed to be almost close +by the house, and was much more extensive, and seemingly of more +consequence, than any we had seen at the other islands. We were told +that it belonged to the king. It consisted of three pretty large houses, +situated upon a rising ground, or rather just by the brink of it, with +a small one at some distance, all ranged longitudinally. The middle +house of the three first, was by much the largest, and placed in a +square, twenty-four paces by twenty-eight, raised about three feet. The +other houses were placed on little mounts, raised artificially to the +same height. The floors of these houses, as also the tops of the mounts +round them, were covered with loose, fine pebbles, and the whole was +inclosed by large flat stones[167] of hard coral rock, properly hewn, +placed on their edges, one of which stones measured twelve feet in +length, two in breadth, and above one in thickness. One of the houses, +contrary to what we had seen before, was open on one side; and within it +were two rude wooden busts of men, one near the entrance, and the other +farther in. On enquiring of the natives, who had followed us to the +ground, but durst not enter here, What these images were intended for? +they made us as sensible as we could wish, that they were merely +memorials of some chiefs who had been buried there, and not the +representations of any deity. Such monuments, it should seem, are seldom +raised; for these had, probably, been erected several ages ago. We were +told that the dead had been buried in each of these houses, but no marks +of this appeared. In one of them, was the carved head of an Otaheite +canoe, which had been driven ashore on their coast, and deposited here. +At the foot of the rising ground, was a large area, or grass-plot, with +different trees planted about it, amongst which were several of those +called _etoa_, very large. These, as they resemble the cypress, had a +fine effect in such a place. There was, also, a row of low palms near +one of the houses, and behind it a ditch, in which lay a great number of +old baskets. + +[Footnote 167: The burying places of the chiefs at the Caroline Islands, +are also inclosed in this manner. See Lettres Edifiantes & Curiouses, +tom. xv. p. 309.--D.] + +After dinner, or rather after we had refreshed ourselves with some +provisions which we had brought with us from our ship, we made an +excursion into the country, taking a pretty large circuit, attended by +one of the king's ministers. Our train was not great, as he would not +suffer the rabble to follow us. He also obliged all those whom we met +upon our progress, to sit down till we had passed, which is a mark of +respect due only to their sovereigns. We found by far the greatest part +of the country cultivated, and planted with various sorts of +productions; and most of these plantations were fenced round. Some +spots, where plantations had been formerly, now produced nothing, lying +fallow; and there were places that had never been touched, but lay in a +state of nature, and yet even these were useful, in affording them +timber, as they were generally covered with trees. We met with several +large uninhabited houses, which, we were told, belonged to the king. +There were many public and well-beaten roads, and abundance of +foot-paths leading to every part of the island. The roads being good, +and the country level, travelling was very easy. It is remarkable, that +when we were on the most elevated parts, at least a hundred feet above +the level of the sea, we often met with the same coral rock, which is +found at the shore, projecting above the surface, and perforated and cut +into all those inequalities which are usually seen in rocks that lie +within the wash of the tide. And yet these very spots, with hardly any +soil upon them, were covered with luxuriant vegetation. We were +conducted to several little pools, and to some springs of water; but, in +general, they were either stinking or brackish, though recommended to us +by the natives as excellent. The former were mostly inland, and the +latter near the shore of the bay, and below high-water mark, so that +tolerable water could be taken up from them, only when the tide was out. + +When we returned from our walk, which was not till the dusk of the +evening, our supper was ready. It consisted of a baked hog, some fish, +and yams, all excellently well cooked, after the method of these +islands. As there was nothing to amuse us after supper, we followed the +custom of the country, and lay down to sleep, our beds being mats spread +upon the floor, and cloth to cover us. The king, who had made himself +very happy with some wine and brandy which we had brought, slept in the +same house, as well as several others of the natives. Long before +day-break, he and they all rose, and sat conversing by moon-light. The +conversation, as might well be guessed, turned wholly upon us; the king +entertaining his company with an account of what he had seen, or +remarked. As soon as it was day, they dispersed, some one way, and some +another; but it was not long before they all returned, and, with them, +several more of their countrymen. + +They now began to prepare a bowl of _kava_; and, leaving them so +employed, I went to pay a visit to Toobou, Captain Furneaux's friend, +who had a house hard by, which, for size and neatness, was exceeded by +few in the place. As I had left the others, so I found here a company +preparing a morning draught. This chief made a present to me of a living +hog, a baked one, a quantity of yams, and a large piece of cloth. When I +returned to the king, I found him, and his circle of attendants, +drinking the second bowl of _kava_. That being emptied, he told Omai, +that he was going presently to perform a mourning ceremony, called +_Tooge_, on account of a son who had been dead some time, and he desired +us to accompany him. We were glad of the opportunity, expecting to see +somewhat new or curious. + +The first thing the chief did, was to step out of the house, attended by +two old women, and put on a new suit of clothes, or rather a new piece +of cloth, and, over it, an old ragged mat, that might have served his +great grandfather, on some such occasion. His servants, or those who +attended him, were all dressed in the same manner, excepting that none +of their mats could vie, in antiquity, with that of their master. Thus +equipped, we marched off, preceded by about eight or ten persons, in all +the above habits of ceremony, each of them, besides, having a small +green bough about his neck. Poulaho held his bough in his hand till we +drew near the place of rendezvous, when he also put it about his neck. +We now entered a small inclosure, in which was a neat house, and we +found one man sitting before it. As the company entered, they pulled off +the green branches from round their necks, and threw them away. The king +having first seated himself, the others sat down before him, in the +usual manner. The circle increased, by others dropping in, to the number +of a hundred or upward, mostly old men, all dressed as above described. +The company being completely assembled, a large root of _kava_, brought +by one of the king's servants, was produced, and a bowl which contained +four or five gallons. Several persons now began to chew the root, and +this bowl was made brimful of liquor. While it was preparing, others +were employed in making drinking cups of plantain leaves. The first cup +that was filled, was presented to the king, and he ordered it to be +given to another person. The second was also brought to him, which he +drank, and the third was offered to me. Afterward, as each cup was +filled, the man who filled it, asked who was to have it? Another then +named the person; and to him it was carried. As the bowl grew low, the +man who distributed the liquor seemed rather at a loss to whom cups of +it should be next sent, and frequently consulted those who sat near him. +This mode of distribution continued, while any liquor remained; and +though not half the company had a share, yet no one seemed dissatisfied. +About half a dozen cups served for all; and each, as it was emptied, was +thrown down upon the ground, where the servants picked it up, and +carried it to be filled again. During the whole time, the chief and his +circle sat as was usually the case, with a great deal of gravity, hardly +speaking a word to each other. + +We had long waited in expectation, each moment, of seeing the mourning +ceremony begin; when, soon after the _kava_ was drank out, to our great +surprise and disappointment, they all rose up and dispersed; and Poulaho +told us, he was now ready to attend us to the ships. If this was a +mourning ceremony, it was a strange one. Perhaps it was the second, +third, or fourth mourning; or, which was not very uncommon, Omai might +have misunderstood what Poulaho said to him. For, excepting the change +of dress, and the putting the green bough round their necks, nothing +seemed to have passed at this meeting, but what we saw them practise, +too frequently, every day. + +[168]"We had seen the drinking of _kava_ sometimes at the other islands, +but, by no means, so frequently as here, where it seems to be the only +forenoon employment of the principal people. The _kava_ is a species of +pepper, which they cultivate for this purpose, and esteem it a valuable +article, taking great care to defend the young plants from any injury; +and it is commonly planted about their houses. It seldom grows to more +than a man's height, though I have seen some plants almost double that. +It branches considerably, with large heart-shaped leaves, and jointed +stalks. The root is the only part that is used at the Friendly Islands, +which, being dug up, is given to the servants that attend, who, breaking +it in pieces, scrape the dirt off with a shell, or bit of stick, and +then each begins and chews his portion, which he spits into a piece of +plantain leaf. The person who is to prepare the liquor, collects all +these mouthfuls; and puts them into a large wooden dish, or bowl, adding +as much water as will make it of a proper strength. It is then well +mixed up with the hands, and some loose stuff, of which mats are made, +is thrown upon the surface, which intercepts the fibrous part, and is +wrung hard, to get as much liquid out from it, as is possible. The +manner of distributing it need not be repeated. The quantity which is +put into each cup is commonly about a quarter of a pint. The immediate +effect of this beverage is not perceptible on these people, who use it +so frequently; but on some of ours, who ventured to try it, though so +nastily prepared, it had the same power as spirits have, in intoxicating +them; or, rather, it produced that kind of stupefaction, which is the +consequence of using opium, or other substances of that kind. It should +be observed, at the same time, that though these islanders have this +liquor always fresh prepared, and I have seen them drink it seven times +before noon, it is, nevertheless, so disagreeable, or, at least, seems +so, that the greatest part of them cannot swallow it without making wry +faces, and shuddering, afterward," + +[Footnote 168: The following account of _kava_, to the end of this +paragraph, is inserted from Mr Anderson's journal.--D.] + +As soon as this mourning ceremony was over, we left Mooa, and set out to +return to the ships. While we rowed down the _lagoon_, or inlet, we met +with two canoes coming in from fishing. Poulaho ordered them to be +called alongside our boat, and took from them every fish and shell they +had got. He, afterward, stopped two other canoes, and searched them, but +they had nothing. Why this was done I cannot say, for we had plenty +provisions in the boat. Some of this fish he gave to me, and his +servants sold the rest on board the ship. As we proceeded down the +inlet, we overtook a large sailing canoe. Every person on board her, +that was upon his legs when we came up, sat down till we had passed; +even the man who steered, though he could not manage the helm, except in +a standing posture. + +Poulaho, and others, having informed me, that there was some excellent +water on Onevy, a little island, which lies about a league off the mouth +of the inlet, and on the north side of the eastern channel, we landed +there, in order to taste it. But I found it to be as brackish as most +that we had met with. This island is quite in a natural state, being +only frequented as a fishing place, and has nearly the same productions +as Palmerston's Island, with some _etoa_ trees. After leaving Onevy, +where we dined, in our way to the ship, we took a view of a curious +coral rock, which seems to have been thrown upon the reef where it +stands. It is elevated about ten or twelve feet above the surface of the +sea that surrounds it. The base it rests upon, is not above one-third of +the circumference of its projecting summit, which I judged to be about +one hundred feet, and is covered with _etoa_ and _pandanus_ trees. + +When we got on board the ship, I found that every thing had been quiet +during my absence, not a theft having been committed, of which Feenou, +and Futtafaihe, the king's brother, who had undertaken the management of +his countrymen, boasted not a little. This shews what power the chiefs +have, when they have the will to execute it; which we were seldom to +expect, since, whatever was stolen from us, generally, if not always, +was conveyed to them. + +The good conduct of the natives was of short duration; for, the next +day, six or eight of them assaulted some of our people, who were sawing +planks. They were fired upon by the sentry, and one was supposed to be +wounded, and three others taken. These I kept confined till night, and +did not dismiss them without punishment. After this, they behaved with a +little more circumspection, and gave us much less trouble. This change +of behaviour was certainly occasioned by the man being wounded; for, +before, they had only been told of the effect of fire-arms, but now they +had felt it. The repeated insolence of the natives, had induced me to +order the musquets of the sentries, to be loaded with small shot, and to +authorise them to fire on particular occasions. I took it for granted, +therefore, that this man had only been wounded with small shot. But Mr +King and Mr Anderson, in an excursion into the country, met with him, +and found indubitable marks of his having been wounded, but not +dangerously, with a musquet ball. I never could find out how this +musquet happened to be charged with ball; and there were people enough +ready to swear, that its contents were only small shot. + +Mr Anderson's account of the excursion just mentioned, will fill up an +interval of two days, during which nothing of note happened at the +ships: "Mr King and I went, on the 30th, along with Futtafaihe, as +visitors to his house, which is at Mooa, very near that of his brother +Poulaho. A short time after we arrived, a pretty large hog was killed; +which is done by repeated strokes on the head. The hair was then +scraped off, very dexterously, with the sharp edge of pieces of split +bamboo, taking the entrails out at a large oval hole cut in the belly, +by the same simple instrument. Before this, they had prepared an oven, +which is a large hole dug in the earth, filled at the bottom with +stones, about the size of the fist; over which a fire is made till they +are red hot. They took some of these stones, wrapt up in leaves of the +bread-fruit tree, and filled the hog's belly, stuffing in a quantity of +leaves, to prevent their falling out, and putting a plug of the same +kind in the _anus_. The carcass was then placed on some sticks laid +across the stones, in a standing posture, and covered with a great +quantity of plantain leaves. After which, they dug up the earth all +round; and having thus effectually closed the oven, the operation of +baking required no farther interference. + +"In the mean time we walked about the country, but met with nothing +remarkable, except a _fiatooka_ of one house, standing on an artificial +mount, at least thirty feet high. A little on one side of it, was a +pretty large open area, and not far off, was a good deal of uncultivated +ground, which, on enquiring why it lay waste, our guides seemed to say, +belonged to the _fiatooka_, (which was Poulaho's,) and was not, by any +means, to be touched. There was also, at no great distance, a number of +_etoa_ trees, on which clung vast numbers of the large _ternate_ bats, +making a disagreeable noise. We could not kill any, at this time, for +want of musquets; but some that were got at Annamooka, measured near +three feet, when the wings were extended. On our return to Futtafaihe's +house, he ordered the hog that had been dressed, to be produced, with +several baskets of baked yams, and some cocoa-nuts. But we found, that, +instead of his entertaining us, we were to entertain him, the property +of the feast being entirely transferred to us, as his guests, and we +were to dispose of it as we pleased. The same person who cleaned the hog +in the morning, now cut it up (but not before we desired him) in a very +dextrous manner, with a knife of split bamboo, dividing the several +parts, and hitting the joints, with a quickness and skill that surprised +us very much. The whole was set down before us, though at least fifty +pounds weight, until we took a small piece away, and desired that they +would share the rest amongst the people sitting round. But it was not +without a great many scruples they did that at last, and then they +asked, what particular persons they should give it to. However, they +were very well pleased, when they found that it was not contrary to any +custom of ours; some carrying off the portion they had received, and +others eating it upon the spot. It was with great difficulty that we +could prevail upon Futtafaihe himself to eat a small bit." + +"After dinner, we went with him, and five or six people, his attendants, +toward the place where Poulaho's mourning ceremony was transacted the +last time we were at Mooa; but we did not enter the inclosure. Every +person who went with us, had the mat tied over his cloth, and some +leaves about the neck, as had been done on the former occasion; and when +we arrived at a large open boat-house, where a few people were, they +threw away their leaves, sat down before it, and gave their cheeks a few +gentle strokes with the fist; after which they continued sitting, for +about ten minutes, with a very grave appearance, and then dispersed, +without having spoken a single word. This explained what Poulaho had +mentioned about _Tooge_; though, from the operation only lasting a few +seconds, he had not been observed to perform it. And this seems to be +only a continuation of the mourning ceremony, by way of condolence. For, +upon enquiring, on whose account it was now performed, we were told, +that it was for a chief who had died at Vavaoo some time ago; that they +had practised it ever since, and should continue to do so for a +considerable time longer." + +"In the evening, we had a pig, dressed as the hog, with yams and +cocoa-nuts, brought for supper; and Futtafaihe finding that we did not +like the scruples they had made before, to accept of any part of the +entertainment, asked us immediately to share it, and give it to whom we +pleased. When supper was over, abundance of cloth was brought for us to +sleep in, but we were a good deal disturbed, by a singular instance of +luxury, in which their principal men indulge themselves, that of being +beat while they are asleep. Two women sat by Futtafaihe, and performed +this operation, which is called _tooge tooge_, by beating briskly on his +body and legs, with both fists, as on a drum, till he fell asleep, and +continuing it the whole night, with some short intervals. When once the +person is asleep, they abate a little in the strength and quickness of +the beating, but resume it, if they observe any appearance of his +awaking. In the morning, we found that Futtafaihe's women relieved each +other, and went to sleep by turns. In any other country, it would be +supposed, that such a practice would put an end to all rest, but here it +certainly acts as an opiate, and is a strong proof of what habit may +effect. The noise of this, however, was not the only thing that kept us +awake; for the people, who passed the night in the house, not only +conversed amongst each other frequently, as in the day, but all got up +before it was light, and made a hearty meal on fish and yams, which were +brought to them by a person, who seemed to know very well the appointed +time for this nocturnal refreshment." + +"Next morning, July 1, we set out with Futtafaihe, and walked down the +east side of the bay to the point. The country, all along this side, is +well cultivated, but, in general, not so much inclosed as at Mooa; and +amongst many other plantain fields that we passed, there was one at +least a mile long, which was in excellent order, every tree growing with +great vigour. We found, that, in travelling, Futtafaihe exercised a +power, though by no means wantonly, which pointed out the great +authority of such principal men; or is, perhaps, only annexed to those +of the royal family. For he sent to one place for fish, to another for +yams, and so on, at other places, and all his orders were obeyed with +the greatest readiness, as if he had been absolute master of the +people's property. On coming to the point, the natives mentioned +something of one, who, they said, had been fired at by some of our +people; and, upon our wishing to see him, they conducted us to a house, +where we found a man who had been shot through the shoulder, but not +dangerously, as the ball had entered a little above the inner part of +the collar-bone, and passed out obliquely backward. We were sure, from +the state of the wound, that he was the person who had been fired at by +one of the sentinels three days before, though positive orders had been +given, that none of them should load their pieces with any thing but +small shot. We gave some directions to his friends how to manage the +wound, to which no application had been made; and they seemed pleased, +when we told them it would get well in a certain time. But, on our going +away, they asked us to send the wounded man some yams, and other things +for food, and, in such a manner, that we could not help thinking they +considered it to be our duty to support him till he should get well." + +"In the evening we crossed the bay to our station, in a canoe, which +Futtafaihe had exercised his prerogative in procuring, by calling to the +first that passed by. He had also got a large hog at this place, and +brought a servant from his house with a bundle of cloth, which he wanted +us to take with us, as a present from him. But the boat being small, we +objected; and he ordered it to be brought over to us the next day." + +I had prolonged my stay at this island, on account of the approaching +eclipse; but, on the 2d of July, on looking at the micrometer belonging +to the board of longitude, I found some of the rack work broken, and the +instrument useless till repaired, which there was not time to do before +it was intended to be used. Preparing now for our departure, I got on +board, this day, all the cattle, poultry, and other animals, except such +as were destined to remain. I had designed to leave a turkey-cock and +hen, but having now only two of each undisposed of, one of the hens, +through the ignorance of one of my people, was strangled, and died upon +the spot. I had brought three turkey-hens to these islands. One was +killed as above-mentioned, and the other by an useless dog belonging to +one of the officers. These two accidents put it out of my power to leave +a pair here; and, at the same time, to carry the breed to Otaheite, for +which island they were originally intended. I was sorry, afterward, that +I did not give the preference to Tongataboo, as the present would have +been of more value there than at Otaheite; for the natives of the former +island, I am persuaded, would have taken more pains to multiply the +breed. + +The next day we took up our anchor, and moved the ships behind +Pangimodoo, that we might be ready to take the advantage of the first +favourable wind, to get through the narrows. The king, who was one of +our company this day at dinner, I observed, took particular notice of +the plates. This occasioned me to make him an offer of one, either of +pewter, or of earthenware. He chose the first; and then began to tell us +the several uses to which he intended to apply it. Two of them are so +extraordinary, that I cannot omit mentioning them. He said, that, +whenever he should have occasion to visit any of the other islands, he +would leave this plate behind him at Tongataboo, as a sort of +representative, in his absence, that the people might pay it the same +obeisance they do to himself in person. He was asked, what had been +usually employed for this purpose before he got this plate? and we had +the satisfaction of learning from him, that this singular honour had +hitherto been conferred on a wooden bowl in which he washed his hands. +The other extraordinary use to which he meant to apply it, in the room +of his wooden bowl, was to discover a thief. He said, that, when any +thing was stolen, and the thief could not be found out, the people were +all assembled together before him, when he washed his hands in water in +this vessel; after which it was cleaned, and then the whole multitude +advanced, one after another, and touched it in the same manner as they +touch his foot, when they pay him obeisance. If the guilty person +touched it, he died immediately upon the spot, not by violence, but by +the hand of Providence; and if any one refused to touch it, his refusal +was a clear proof that he was the man. + +In the morning of the 5th, the day of the eclipse, the weather was dark +and cloudy, with showers of rain, so that we had little hopes of an +observation. About nine o'clock, the sun broke out at intervals for +about half an hour; after which it was totally obscured, till within a +minute or two of the beginning of the eclipse. We were all at our +telescopes, viz. Mr Bayly, Mr King, Captain Clerke, Mr Bligh, and +myself. I lost the observation, by not having a dark glass at hand, +suitable to the clouds that were continually passing over the sun; and +Mr Bligh had not got the sun into the field of his telescope; so that +the commencement of the eclipse was only observed by the other three +gentlemen; and by them, with an uncertainty of several seconds, as +follows:-- + + H. M. S. + By Mr Bayly, at 11 46 23 1/2 } + Mr King, at 11 46 28 }Apparent time. + Capt. Clerke, at 11 47 5 } + +Mr Bayly and Mr King observed, with the achromatic telescopes, belonging +to the board of longitude, of equal magnifying powers; and Captain +Clerke observed with one of the reflectors. The sun appeared at +intervals, till about the middle of the eclipse, after which it was seen +no more during the day, so that the end could not be observed. The +disappointment was of little consequence, since the longitude was more +than sufficiently determined, independently of this eclipse, by lunar +observations, which will be mentioned hereafter. + +As soon as we knew the eclipse to be over, we packed up the instruments, +took down the observatories, and sent every thing on board that had not +been already removed. As none of the natives had taken the least notice +or care of the three sheep allotted to Mareewagee, I ordered them to be +carried back to the ships. I was apprehensive, that, if I had left them +here, they run great risk of being destroyed by dogs. That animal did +not exist upon this island, when I first visited it in 1773; but I now +found they had got a good many, partly from the breed then left by +myself, and partly from some, imported since that time, from an island +not very remote, called Feejee. The dogs, however, at present, had not +found their way into any of the Friendly Islands, except Tongataboo; and +none but the chiefs there had, as yet, got possession of any. + +Being now upon the eve of out departure from this island, I shall add +some particulars about it, and its productions, for which I am indebted +to Mr Anderson. And, having spent as many weeks there, as I had done +days,[169] when I visited it in 1773, the better opportunities that now +occurred, of gaining more accurate information, and the skill of that +gentleman, in directing his enquiries, will, in some measure, supply the +imperfection of my former account of this island. + +[Footnote 169: From the 4th to the 7th of October.] + +"Amsterdam, Tongataboo, or (as the natives also very frequently called +it) Tonga, is about twenty leagues in circuit, somewhat oblong, though +by much broadest at the east end, and its greatest length from east to +west. The south shore, which I saw in 1773, is straight, and consists of +coral rocks, eight or ten feet high, terminating perpendicularly, except +in some places, where it is interrupted by small sandy beaches, on +which, at low water, a range of black rocks may be seen. The west end is +not above five or six miles broad, but has a shore somewhat like that of +the south side, whereas the whole north side is environed with shoals +and islands, and the shore within them low and sandy. The east side or +end is, most probably, like the south, as the shore begins to assume a +rocky appearance toward the north-east point, though not above seven or +eight feet high. + +"The island may, with the greatest propriety, be called a low one, as +the trees on the west part, where we now lay at anchor, only appeared; +and the only eminent part, which can be seen from a ship, is the +south-east point, though many gently rising and declining grounds are +observable by one who is ashore. The general appearance of the country +does not afford that beautiful kind of landscape that is produced from a +variety of hills and valleys, lawns, rivulets, and cascades; but, at the +same time, it conveys to the spectator an idea of the most exuberant +fertility, whether we respect the places improved by art, or those still +in a natural state, both which yield all their vegetable productions +with the greatest vigour, and perpetual verdure. At a distance, the +surface seems entirely clothed with trees of various sizes, some of +which are very large. But, above the rest, the tall cocoa-palms always +raise their tufted heads, and are far from being the smallest ornament +to any country that produces them. The _boogo_, which is a species of +fig, with narrow pointed leaves, is the largest sized tree of the +island; and on the uncultivated spots, especially toward the sea, the +most common bushes and small trees are the _pandanus_, several sorts of +_hibiscus_, the _faitanoo_, mentioned more than once in the course of +our voyage, and a few others. It ought also to be observed, that though +the materials for forming grand landscapes are wanting, there are many +of what might, at least, be called neat prospects, about the cultivated +grounds and dwelling-places, but more especially about the _fiatookas_, +where sometimes art, and sometimes nature, has done much to please the +eye. + +"From the situation of Tongataboo, toward the tropic, the climate is +more variable, than in countries farther within that line, though, +perhaps, that might be owing to the season of the year, which was now +the winter solstice. The winds are, for the most part, from some point +between south and east; and, when moderate, are commonly attended with +fine weather. When they blow fresher, the weather is often cloudy, +though open; and, in such cases, there is frequently rain. The wind +sometimes veers to the N.E., N.N.E, or even N.N.W., but never lasts +long, nor blows strong from thence, though it is commonly accompanied by +heavy rain, and close sultry weather. The quick succession, of +vegetables has been already mentioned; but I am not certain that the +changes of weather, by which it is brought about, are considerable +enough to make them perceptible to the natives as to their method of +life, or rather that they should be very sensible of the different +seasons. This, perhaps, may be inferred from the state of their +vegetable productions, which are never so much affected, with respect to +the foliage, as to shed that all at once; for every leaf is succeeded by +another as fast as it falls, which causes that appearance of universal +and continual spring found here. + +"The basis of the island, as far as we know, is entirely a coral rock, +which is the only sort that presents itself on the shore. Nor did we see +the least appearance of any other stone, except a few small blue pebbles +strewed about the _fiatookas_; and the smooth, solid black stone, +something like the _lapis lydius_, of which the natives make their +hatchets. But these may, probably, have been brought from other islands +in the neighbourhood; for a piece of slaty, iron-coloured stone was +bought at one of them, which was never seen here. Though the coral +projects in many places above the surface, the soil is, in general, of a +considerable depth. In all cultivated places, it is commonly of a loose, +black colour, produced seemingly, in a great measure, from the rotten +vegetables that are planted there. Underneath which is, very probably, a +clayey _stratum_; for a soil of that kind is often seen, both in the low +and in the rising grounds, but especially in several places toward the +shore, where it is of any height, and, when broken off, appears +sometimes of a reddish, though oftener of a brownish yellow colour, and +of a pretty stiff consistence. Where the shore is low, the soil is +commonly sandy, or rather composed of triturated coral, which, however, +yields bushes growing with great luxuriance, and is sometimes planted, +not unsuccessfully, by the natives. + +"Of cultivated fruits, the principal are plantains, of which they have +fifteen different sorts or varieties; breadfruit; two sorts of fruit +found at Otaheite, and known there under the names of _jambu_ and +_geevee_; the latter a kind of plumb; and vast numbers of shaddocks, +which, however, are found as often in a natural state, as planted. + +"The roots are yams, of which are two sorts; one black, and so large, +that it often weighs twenty or thirty pounds; the other white and long, +seldom weighing a pound; a large root called _kappe_; one not unlike our +white potatoes, called _mawhaha_; the _talo_, or _coccos_ of other +places; and another named _jeejee_. + +"Besides vast numbers of cocoa-nut trees, they have three other sorts of +palms, two of which are very scarce. One of them is called _beeoo_, +which grows almost as high as the cocoa-tree, has very large leaves +plaited like a fan, and clusters or bunches of globular nuts, not larger +than a small pistol ball, growing amongst the branches, with a very hard +kernel, which is sometimes eat. The other is a kind of cabbage-tree, not +distinguishable from the cocoa, but by being rather thicker, and by +having its leaves more ragged. It has a cabbage three or four feet long; +at the top of which are the leaves, and at the bottom the fruit, which +is scarcely two inches long, resembling an oblong cocoa-nut, with an +insipid tenacious kernel, called, by the natives, _neeoogoola_, or red +cocoa-nut, as it assumes a reddish cast when ripe. The third sort is +called _ongo ongo_, and much commoner, being generally found planted +about their _fiatookas_. It seldom grows higher than five feet, though +sometimes to eight, and has a vast number of oval compressed nuts, as +large as a pippin, sticking immediately to the trunk, amongst the +leaves, which are not eat. There is plenty of excellent sugar-cane, +which is cultivated; gourds, bamboo, turmeric, and a species of fig, +about the size of a small cherry, called _matte_, which, though wild, is +sometimes eat. But the catalogue of uncultivated plants is too large to +be enumerated here. Besides the _pemphis decaspermum, mallococca, maba_, +and some other new genera, described by Dr Forster,[170] there are a few +more found here, which, perhaps, the different seasons of the year, and +his short stay, did not give him an opportunity to take notice of. +Although it did not appear, during our longer stay, that above a fourth +part of the trees, and other plants, were in flower; a circumstance +absolutely necessary to enable one to distinguish the various kinds. + +[Footnote 170: See his _Characteres Generum Plantarum_. Lond. 1776.] + +"The only quadrupeds, besides hogs, are a few rats, and some dogs, +which are not natives of the place, but produced from some left by us in +1773, and by others got from Feejee. Fowls, which are of a large breed, +are domesticated here. + +"Amongst the birds, are parrots, somewhat smaller than the common grey +ones, of an indifferent green on the back and wings, the tail bluish, +and the rest of a sooty or chocolate brown; parroquets, not larger than +a sparrow, of a fine yellowish green, with bright azure on the crown of +the head, and the throat and belly red; besides another sort as large as +a dove, with a blue crown and thighs, the throat and under part of the +head crimson, as also part of the belly, and the rest a beautiful green. + +"There are owls about the size of our common sort, but of a finer +plumage; the cuckoos mentioned at Palmerston's Island; king-fishers, +about the size of a thrush, of a greenish blue, with a white ring about +the neck; and a bird of the thrush kind, almost as big, of a dull green +colour, with two yellow wattles at the base of the bill, which is the +only singing one we observed here; but it compensates a good deal for +the want of others by the strength and melody of its notes, which fill +the woods at dawn, in the evening, and at the breaking up of bad +weather. + +The other land-birds are rails, as large as a pigeon, of a variegated +grey colour, with a rusty neck; a black sort with red eyes, not larger +than a lark; large violet-coloured coots, with red bald crowns; two +sorts of fly-catchers; a very small swallow; and three sorts of pigeons, +one of which is _le ramier cuivre_ of Mons. Sonnerat;[171] another, half +the size of the common sort, of a light green on the back and wings, +with a red forehead; and a third, somewhat less, of a purple brown, but +whitish underneath. + +[Footnote 171: _Voyage a la Nouvelle Guinee_, Tab. CII.] + +"Of water-fowl, and such as frequent the sea, are the ducks seen at +Annamooka, though scarce here; blue and white herons; tropic birds; +common noddies; white terns; a new species of a leaden colour, with a +black crest; a small bluish curlew; and a large plover, spotted with +yellow. Besides the large bats, mentioned before, there is also the +common sort. + +"The only noxious or disgusting animals of the reptile or insect tribe, +are sea-snakes, three feet long, with black and white circles +alternately, often found on shore; some scorpions, and _centipedes_. +There are fine green _guanoes_, a foot and a half long; another brown +and spotted lizard about a foot long; and two other small sorts. Amongst +the other insects are some beautiful moths, butterflies, very large +spiders, and others, making, in the whole, about fifty different sorts. + +The sea abounds with fish, though the variety is less than might be +expected. The most frequent sorts are mullets; several sorts of +parrot-fish; silver-fish; old wives; some beautifully spotted soles; +leather-jackets; bonnetos, and albicores; besides the eels mentioned at +Palmerston's Island, some sharks, rays, pipe-fish, a sort of pike, and +some curious devil-fish. + +"The many reefs and shoals on the north side of the island, afford +shelter for an endless variety of shell-fish; amongst which are many +that are esteemed precious in Europe. Such as the true hammer oyster, of +which, however, none could be obtained entire; a large indentated +oyster, and several others, but none of the common sort, panamas, cones, +a sort of gigantic cockle, found also in the East Indies, pearl shell +oysters, and many others, several of which, I believe, have been +hitherto unknown to the most diligent enquirers after that branch of +natural history. There are likewise several sorts of sea-eggs, and many +very fine star-fish, besides a considerable variety of corals, amongst +which are two red sorts, the one most elegantly branched, the other +tubulous. And there is no less variety amongst the crabs and cray-fish, +which are very numerous. To which may be added, several sorts of sponge, +the sea-hare, _holothuriae_, and the like." + + +SECTION IX. + +_A grand Solemnity, called Natche, in Honour of the King's Son, +performed.--The Processions and other Ceremonies, during the first day, +described.--The Manner of passing the Night at the King's +House.--Continuation of the Solemnity, the next Day.--Conjectures about +the Nature of it.--Departure from Tongataboo, and Arrival at +Eooa.--Account of that Island, and Transactions there_. + + +We were now ready to sail, but the wind being easterly, we had not +sufficient day-light to turn through the narrows, either with the +morning, or with the evening flood, the one falling out too early, and +the other too late. So that, without a leading wind, we were under a +necessity of waiting two or three days. + +I took the opportunity of this delay to be present at a public +solemnity, to which the king had invited us, when we went last to visit +him, and which, he had informed us, was to be performed on the 8th. With +a view to this, he and all the people of note quitted our neighbourhood +on the 7th, and repaired to Mooa, where the solemnity was to be +exhibited. A party of us followed them the next morning. We understood, +from what Poulaho had said to us, that his son and heir was now to be +initiated into certain privileges, amongst which was, that of eating +with his father, an honour he had not, as yet, been admitted to. + +We arrived at Mooa about eight o'clock, and found the king, with a large +circle of attendants sitting before him, within an inclosure so small +and dirty, as to excite my wonder that any such could be found in that +neighbourhood. They were intent upon their usual morning occupation, in +preparing a bowl of _kava_. As this was no liquor for us, we walked out +to visit some of our friends, and to observe what preparations might be +making for the ceremony, which was soon to begin. About ten o'clock, the +people began to assemble in a large area, which is before the _malaee_, +or great house, to which we had been conducted the first time we visited +Mooa. At the end of a road, that opens into this area, stood some men +with spears and clubs, who kept constantly reciting or chanting short +sentences in a mournful tone, which conveyed some idea of distress, and +as if they called for something. This was continued about an hour; and, +in the mean time, many people came down the road, each of them bringing +a yam, tied to the middle of a pole, which they laid down before the +persons who continued repeating the sentences. While this was going on, +the king and prince arrived, and seated themselves upon the area; and we +were desired to sit down by them, but to pull off our hats, and to untie +our hair. The bearers of the yams being all come in, each pole was taken +up between two men, who carried it over their shoulders. After forming +themselves into companies of ten or twelve persons each, they marched +across the place with a quick pace; each company headed by a man bearing +a club or spear, and guarded on the right by several others armed with +different weapons. A man carrying a living pigeon on a perch, closed the +rear, of the procession, in which about two hundred and fifty persons +walked. + +Omai was desired by me to ask the chief, to what place the yams were to +be thus carried with so much solemnity? but, as he seemed unwilling to +give us the information we wanted, two or three of us followed the +procession contrary to his inclination. We found that they stopped +before a _morai_ or _fiatooka_ of one house standing upon a mount, which +was hardly a quarter of a mile from the place where they first +assembled. Here we observed them depositing the yams, and making them up +into bundles; but for what purpose we could not learn. And, as our +presence seemed to give them uneasiness, we left them and returned to +Poulaho, who told us we might amuse ourselves by walking about, as +nothing would be done for some time. The fear of losing any part of the +ceremony prevented our being long absent. When we returned to the king, +he desired me to order the boat's crew not to stir from the boat; for, +as every thing would very soon be _taboo_, if any of our people, or of +their own, should be found walking about, they would be knocked down +with clubs, nay _mateed_, that is, killed. He also acquainted us, that +we could not be present at the ceremony, but that we should be conducted +to a place, where we might see every thing that passed. Objections were +made to our dress. We were told, that, to qualify us to be present, it +was necessary that we should be naked as low as the breast, with our +hats off, and our hair untied. Omai offered to conform to these +requisites, and began to strip; other objections were then started; so +that the exclusion was given to him equally with ourselves. + +I did not much like this restriction, and, therefore, stole out to see +what might now be going forward. I found very few people stirring, +except those dressed to attend the ceremony; some of whom had in their +hands small poles about four feet long, and to the underpart of these +were fastened two or three other sticks; not bigger than one's finger, +and about six inches in length. These men were going toward the _morai_ +just mentioned. I took the same road, and was several times stopped by +them, all crying out _taboo_. However, I went forward without much +regarding them, till I came in sight of the _morai_, and of the people +who were sitting before it. I was now urged very strongly to go back, +and, not knowing what might be the consequence of a refusal, I complied. +I had observed, that the people who carried the poles passed this +_morai_, or what I may as well call temple; and guessing from this +circumstance that something was transacting beyond it, which might be +worth looking at, I had thoughts of advancing by making a round for this +purpose; but I was so closely watched by three men, that I could not put +my design in execution. In order to shake these fellows off, I returned +to the _malaee_, where I had left the king, and from thence made an +elopement a second time; but I instantly met with the same three men, so +that it seemed as if they had been ordered to watch my motions. I paid +no regard to what they said or did, till I came within sight of the +king's principal _fiatooka_ or _morai_, which I have already described, +before which a great number of men were sitting, being the same persons +whom I had just before seen pass by the other _morai_, from which this +was but a little distant. Observing that I could watch the proceedings +of this company from the king's plantation, I repaired thither very much +to the satisfaction of those who attended me. + +As soon as I got in, I acquainted the gentlemen who had come with me +from the ships, with what I had seen; and we took a proper station to +watch the result. The number of people at the _fiatooka_ continued to +increase for some time; and, at length, we could see them quit their +sitting-posture, and march off in procession. They walked in pairs, one +after another, every pair carrying between them one of the small poles +above-mentioned on their shoulders. We were told, that the small pieces +of sticks fastened to the poles were yams; so that probably they were +meant to represent this root emblematically. The hindmost man of each +couple, for the most part, placed one of his hands to the middle of the +pole, as if, without this additional support, it were not strong enough +to carry the weight that hung to it, and under which they all seemed to +bend as they walked. This procession consisted of one hundred and eight +pairs, and all or most of them men of rank. They came close by the fence +behind which we stood, so that we had a full view of them. + +Having waited here till they had all passed, we then repaired to +Poulaho's house, and saw him going out. We could not be allowed to +follow him, but were forthwith conducted to the place allotted to us, +which was behind a fence, adjoining to the area of the fiatooka, where +the yams had been deposited in the forenoon. As we were not the only +people who were excluded from being publicly present at this ceremony, +but allowed to peep from behind the curtain, we had a good deal of +company; and I observed, that all the other inclosures round the place +were filled with people. And yet all imaginable care seemed to be taken, +that they should see as little as possible; for the fences had not only +been repaired that morning, but in many places raised higher than +common, so that the tallest man could not look over them. To remedy this +defect in our station; we took the liberty to cut holes in the fence +with our knives, and by this means we could see pretty distinctly every +thing that was transacting on the other side. + +On our arrival at our station, we found two or three hundred people +sitting on the grass, near the end of the road that opened into the area +of the _morai_, and the number continually increased by others joining +them. At length, arrived a few men carrying some small poles, and +branches or leaves of the cocoa-nut tree; and, upon their first +appearance, an old man seated himself in the road and, with his face +toward them, pronounced a long oration in a serious tone. He then +retired back, and the others advancing to the middle of the area, began +to erect a small shed, employing for that purpose the materials +above-mentioned. When they had finished their work, they all squatted +down for a moment before it, then rose up, and retired to the rest of +the company. Soon after came Poulaho's son, preceded by four or five +men, and they seated themselves a little aside from the shed, and rather +behind it. After them, appeared twelve or fourteen women of the first +rank, walking slowly in pairs, each pair carrying between them a narrow +piece of white cloth extended, about two or three yards in length. These +marched up to the prince, squatted down before him, and, having wrapped +some of the pieces of the cloth they had brought round his body, they +rose up, and retired in the same order to some distance on his left, and +there seated themselves. Poulaho himself soon made his appearance, +preceded by four men, who walked two and two abreast, and sat down on +his son's left hand, about twenty paces from him. The young prince then +quitting his first position, went and sat down under the shed with, his +attendants; and a considerable number more placed themselves on the +grass before this royal canopy. The prince himself sat facing the +people, with his back to the _morai_. This being done, three companies, +of ten or a dozen men in each, started up from amongst the large crowd a +little after each other, and running hastily to the opposite side of the +area, sat down for a few seconds; after which they returned in the same +manner to their former stations. To them succeeded two men, each of whom +held a small green branch in his hand, who got up and approached the +prince, sitting down for a few seconds three different times as they +advanced; and then, turning their backs, retired in the same manner, +inclining their branches to each other as they sat. In a little time, +two more repeated this ceremony. + +The grand procession which I had seen march off from the other _morai_, +now began to come in. To judge of the circuit they had made from the +time they had been absent, it must have been pretty large. As they +entered the area, they marched up to the right of the shed, and, having +prostrated themselves on the grass, deposited their pretended burthens +(the poles above-mentioned), and faced round to the prince. They then +rose up, and retired in the same order, closing their hands, which they +held before them, with the most serious aspect, and seated themselves +along the front of the area. During all the time that this numerous band +were coming in, and depositing their poles, three men who sat under the +shed with the prince, continued pronouncing separate sentences in a +melancholy tone. After this, a profound silence ensued for a little +time, and then a man, who sat in the front of the area, began an oration +(or prayer), during which, at several different times, he went and broke +one of the poles, which had been brought in by those who had walked in +procession. When he had ended, the people sitting before the shed +separated, to make a lane, through which the prince and his attendants +passed, and the assembly broke up. + +Some of our party, satisfied with what they had already seen, now +returned to the ships; but I, and two or three more of the officers, +remained at Mooa to see the conclusion of the solemnity, which was not +to be till the next day, being desirous of omitting no opportunity, +which might afford any information about the religious or the political +institutions of this people. The small sticks or poles, which had been +brought into the area by those who walked in procession, being left +lying on the ground, after the crowd had dispersed, I went and examined +them. I found, that to the middle of each, two or three small sticks +were tied, as has been related. Yet we had been repeatedly told by the +natives, who stood near us, that they were young yams, insomuch that +some of our gentlemen believed them, rather than their own eyes. As I +had the demonstration of my senses to satisfy me, that they were not +real yams, it is clear, that we ought to have understood them, that they +were only the artificial representations of these roots. + +Our supper was got ready about seven o'clock. It consisted of fish and +yams. We might have had pork also, but we did not choose to kill a large +hog, which the king had given to us for that purpose. He supped with us, +and drank pretty freely of brandy and water, so that he went to bed with +a sufficient dose. We passed the night in the same house with him and +several of his attendants. + +About one or two o'clock in the morning they waked, and conversed for +about an hour, and then went to sleep again. All, but Poulaho himself, +rose at day-break, and went, I know not whither. Soon after a woman, one +of those who generally attended upon the chief, came in, and enquired +where he was. I pointed him out to her, and she immediately sat down by +him, and began the same operation, which Mr Anderson had seen practised +upon Futtafaihe, tapping of beating gently, with her clinched fists, on +his thighs. This, instead of prolonging his sleep, as was intended, had +the contrary effect; however, though he awaked, he continued to lie +down. + +Omai and I now went to visit the prince, who had parted from us early in +the evening. For he did not lodge with the king, but in apartments of +his own, or at least such as had been allotted to him at some distance +from his father's house. We found him with a circle of boys or youths +about his own age, sitting before him, and an old woman and an old man, +who seemed to have the care of him, sitting behind. There were others, +both men and women, employed about their necessary affairs in different +departments, who probably belonged to his household. + +From the prince we returned to the king. By this time he had got up, and +had a crowded circle before him, composed chiefly of old men. While a +large bowl of _kava_ was preparing, a baked hog and yarns, smoking hot, +were brought in; the greatest part of which fell to our share, and was +very acceptable to the boat's crew; for these people eat very little in +a morning, especially the _kava_-drinkers. I afterward walked out, and +visited several other chiefs, and found that all of them were taking +their morning draught, or had already taken it. Returning to the king, I +found him asleep in a small retired hut, with two women tapping on his +breech. About eleven o'clock he arose again, and then some fish and +yams, which tasted as if they had been stewed in cocoa-nut milk, were +brought to him. Of these he eat a large portion, and lay down once more +to sleep. I now left him, and carried to the prince a present of cloth, +beads, and other articles, which I had brought with me from the ship for +the purpose. There was a sufficient quantity of cloth to make him a +complete suit, and he was immediately decked out with it. Proud of his +dress, he first went to shew himself to his father, and then conducted +me to his mother, with whom were about ten or a dozen other women of a +respectable appearance. Here the prince changed his apparel, and made me +a present of two pieces of the cloth manufactured in the island. By this +time it was past noon, when, by appointment, I repaired to the palace to +dinner. Several of our gentlemen had returned this morning from the +ships, and we were all invited to the feast, which was presently served +up, and consisted of two pigs and yams. I roused the drowsy monarch to +partake of what he had provided for our entertainment. In the mean time, +two mullets, and some shellfish, were brought to him, as I supposed, for +his separate portion. But he joined it to our fare, sat down with us, +and made a hearty meal. + +When dinner was over, we were told that the ceremony would soon begin, +and were strictly enjoined not to walk out. I had resolved, however, to +peep no longer from behind the curtain, but to mix with the actors +themselves, if possible. With this view, I stole out from the +plantation, and walked toward the _morai_, the scene of the solemnity. I +was several times desired to go back by people whom I met, but I paid no +regard to them, and they suffered me to pass on. When I arrived at the +_morai_, I found a number of men seated on the side of the area, on +each side of the road that leads up to it. A few were sitting on the +opposite side of the area, and two men in the middle of it, with their, +faces turned to the _morai_. When I got into the midst of the first +company, I was desired to sit down, which I accordingly did. Where I +sat, there were lying a number of small bundles or parcels, composed of +cocoa-nut leaves, and tied to sticks made into the form of hand-barrows. +All the information I could get about them was, that they were _taboo_. +Our number kept continually increasing, every one coming from the same +quarter. From time to time, one or another of the company turned himself +to those who were coming to join us, and made a short speech, in which I +could remark that the word _arekee_, that is, king, was generally +mentioned. One man said something that produced bursts of hearty +laughter from all the crowd; others of the speakers met with public +applause. I was several times desired to leave the place, and, at last, +when they found that I would not stir, after some seeming consultation, +they applied to me to uncover my shoulders as theirs were. With this +request I complied, and then they seemed to be no longer uneasy at my +presence. + +I sat a full hour, without any thing more going forward, beside what I +have mentioned. At length the prince, the women, and the king, all came +in, as they had done the day before. The prince being placed under the +shed, after his father's arrival, two men, each carrying a piece of mat, +came repeating something seriously, and put them about him. The +assembled people now began their operations; and first, three companies +ran backward and forward across the area, as described in the account of +the proceedings of the former day. Soon after, the two men, who sat in +the middle of the area, made a short speech or prayer, and then the +whole body, amongst whom I had my place, started up, and ran and seated +themselves before the shed under which the prince, and three or four +men, were sitting. I was now partly under the management of one of the +company, who seemed very assiduous to serve me. By his means, I was +placed in such a situation, that if I had been allowed to make use of my +eyes, nothing that passed could have escaped me. But it was necessary to +sit with down-cast looks, and demure as maids. + +Soon after the procession came in, as on the day before; each two +persons bearing on their shoulders a pole, round the middle of which, a +cocoa-nut leaf was plaited. These were deposited with ceremonies similar +to those observed on the preceding day. This first procession was +followed by a second; the men composing which, brought baskets, such as +are usually employed by this people to carry provisions in, and made of +palm leaves. These were followed, by a third procession, in which were +brought different kinds of small fish, each fixed at the end of a forked +stick. The baskets were carried up to an old man, whom I took to be the +chief priest, and who sat on the prince's right hand, without the shed. +He held each in his hand, while he made a short speech or prayer, then +laid it down, and called for another, repeating the same words as +before; and thus he went through the whole number of baskets. The fish +were presented, one by one, on the forked sticks, as they came in, to +two men, who sat on the left, and who, till now, held green branches in +their hands. The first fish they laid down on their right, and the +second on their left. When the third was presented, a stout-looking man, +who sat behind the other two, reached his arm over between them, and +made a snatch at it; as also did the other two at the very same time. +Thus they seemed to contend for every fish that was presented; but as +there were two hands against one, besides the advantage of situation, +the man behind got nothing but pieces; for he never quitted his bold, +till the fish was torn out of his hand, and what little remained in it +he shook out behind him. The others laid what they got on the right and +left alternately. At length, either by accident or design, the man +behind got possession of a whole fish, without either of the other two +so much as touching it. At this the word _mareeai_, which signifies +_very good_ or _well done_, was uttered in a low voice throughout the +whole crowd. It seemed that he had performed now all that was expected +from him, for he made no attempt upon the few fish that came after. +These fish, as also the baskets, were all delivered, by the persons who +brought them in, sitting; and, in the same order and manner, the small +poles, which the first procession carried, had been laid upon the +ground. + +The last procession being closed, there was some speaking or praying by +different persons. Then, on some signal being given, we all started up, +ran several paces to the left, and sat down with our backs to the +prince, and the few who remained with him; I was desired not to look +behind me. However, neither this injunction nor the remembrance of Lot's +wife, discouraged me from facing about. I now saw that the prince had +turned his face to the _morai_. But this last movement had brought so +many people between him and me, that I could not perceive what was +doing. I was afterward assured, that, at this very time, the prince was +admitted to the high honour of eating with his father, which, till now, +had never been permitted to him; a piece of roasted yam being presented +to each of them for this purpose; This was the more probable, as we had +been told before-hand, that this was to happen during the solemnity, and +as all the people turned their backs to them at this time, which they +always do when their monarch eats. + +After some little time, we all faced about, and formed a semicircle +before the prince, leaving a large open space between us. Presently +there appeared some men coming toward us, two and two, bearing large +sticks or poles upon their shoulders, making a noise that might be +called singing, and waving their hands as they advanced. When they had +got close up to us, they made a shew of walking very fast, without +proceeding a single step. Immediately after, three or four men started +up from the crowd, with large sticks in their hands, who ran toward +those newcomers. The latter instantly threw down the poles from their +shoulders, and scampered off; and the others attacked the poles, and, +having beat them most unmercifully, returned to their places. As the +pole-bearers ran off, they gave the challenge that is usual here in +wrestling; and, not long after, a number of stout fellows came from the +same quarter, repeating the challenge as they advanced. These were +opposed by a party who came from the opposite side almost at the same +instant. The two parties paraded about the area for a few minutes, and +then retired, each to their own side. After this, there were wrestling +and boxing-matches for about half an hour. Then two men seated +themselves before the prince, and made speeches, addressed, as I +thought, entirely to him. With this the solemnity ended, and the whole +assembly broke up. + +I now went and examined the several baskets which had been presented; a +curiosity that I was not allowed before to indulge, because every thing +was then _taboo_. But the solemnity being now over, they became simply +what I found them to be, empty baskets. So that, whatever they were +supposed to contain, was emblematically represented. And so, indeed, was +every other thing which had been brought in procession, except the fish. + +We endeavoured in vain to find out the meaning, not only of the ceremony +in general, which is called _Natche_, but of its different parts. We +seldom got any other answer to our enquiries, but _taboo_, a word which, +I have before observed, is applied to many other things. But as the +prince was evidently the principal person concerned in it, and as we had +been told by the king ten days before the celebration of the _Natche_, +that the people would bring in yams for him and his son to eat together, +and as he even described some part of the ceremony, we concluded, from +what he had then said, and from what we now saw, that an oath of +allegiance, if I may so express myself, or solemn promise, was on this +occasion made to the prince, as the immediate successor to the regal +dignity, to stand by him, and to furnish him with the several articles +that were here emblematically represented. This seems the more probable, +as all the principal people of the island, whom we had ever seen, +assisted in the processions. But, be this as it may, the whole was +conducted with a great deal of mysterious solemnity; and that there was +a mixture of religion in the institution was evident, not only from the +place where it was performed, but from the manner of performing it. Our +dress and deportment had never been called in question upon any former +occasion whatever. Now, it was expected that we should be uncovered as +low as the waist; that our hair should be loose, and flowing over our +shoulders; that we should, like themselves, sit cross-legged; and, at +times, in the most humble posture, with down-cast eyes, and hands locked +together; all which requisites were most devoutly observed by the whole +assembly. And, lastly, every one was excluded from the solemnity; but +the principal people, and those who assisted in the celebration. All +these circumstances were to me a sufficient testimony, that, upon this +occasion, they consider themselves as acting under the immediate +inspection of a Supreme Being; + +The present _Natche_ may be considered, from the above account of it, +as merely figurative. For the small quantity of yams, which we saw the +first day, could not be intended as a general contribution; and, indeed, +we were given to understand, that they were a portion consecrated to the +_Otooa_, or Divinity. But we were informed, that, in about three months, +there would be performed, on the same account, a far more important and +grander solemnity; on which occasion, not only the tribute of +Tongataboo, but that of Hepaee, Vavaoo, and of all the other islands; +would be brought to the chief, and confirmed more awfully, by +sacrificing ten human victims from amongst the inferior sort of people. +A horrid solemnity indeed! and which is a most significant instance of +the influence of gloomy and ignorant superstition, over the minds of one +of the most benevolent and humane nations upon earth. On enquiring into +the reasons of so barbarous a practice, they only said, that it was a +necessary part of the _Natche_, and that, if they omitted it, the Deity +would certainly destroy their king. + +Before the assembly broke up, the day was far spent; and as we were at +some distance from the ships, and had an intricate navigation to go +through, we were in haste to set out from Mooa. When I took leave of +Poulaho, he pressed me much to stay till the next day, to be present at +a funeral ceremony. The wife of Mareewagee, who was mother-in-law to the +king, had lately died, and her corpse had, on account of the _Natche_, +been carried on board a canoe that lay in the _lagoon_. Poulaho told me, +that, as soon as he had paid the last offices to her, he would attend me +to Eooa, but, if I did not wait, he would follow me thither. I +understood at the same time, that, if it had not been for the death of +this woman, most of the chiefs would have accompanied us to that island, +where, it seems, all of them have possessions. I would gladly have +waited to see this ceremony also, had not the tide been now favourable +for the ships to get through the narrows. The wind besides, which, for +several days past, had been very boisterous, was now moderate and +settled, and to have lost this opportunity, might have detained us a +fortnight longer. But what was decisive against my waiting, we +understood that the funeral ceremonies would last five days, which was +too long a time, as the ships lay in such a situation, that I could not +get to sea at pleasure. I, however, assured the king, that, if we did +not sail, I should certainly visit him again the next day. And so we all +took leave of him, and set out for the ships, where we arrived about +eight o'clock in the evening. + +I had forgot to mention, that Omai was present at this second day's +ceremony as well as myself, but we were not together, nor did I know +that he was there, till it was almost over. He afterward told me, that, +as soon as the king saw that I had stolen out from the plantation, he +sent several people, one after another, to desire me to come back. +Probably, these messengers were not admitted to the place where I was, +for I saw nothing of them. At last, intelligence was brought to the +chief, that I had actually stripped, in conformity to their custom; and +then he told Omai, that he might be present also, if he would comply +with all necessary forms. Omai had no objection, as nothing was required +of him, but to conform to the custom of his own country. Accordingly, he +was furnished with a proper dress, and appeared at the ceremony as one +of the natives. It is likely, that one reason of our being excluded at +first, was an apprehension, that we would not submit to the requisites +to qualify us to assist. + +While I was attending the _Natche_ at Mooa, I ordered the horses, bull +and cow, and goats, to be brought thither, thinking that they would be +safer there, under the eyes of the chiefs, than at a place that would +be, in a manner, deserted, the moment after our departure. Besides the +above-mentioned animals, we left with our friends here, a young boar, +and three young sows, of the English breed. They were exceedingly +desirous of them, judging, no doubt, that they would greatly improve +their own breed, which is rather small. Feenou also got from us two +rabbits, a buck and a doe; and, before we sailed, we were told that +young ones had been already produced. If the cattle succeed, of which I +make no doubt, it will be a vast acquisition to these islands; and as +Tongataboo is a fine level country, the horses cannot but be useful. + +On the 10th, at eight o'clock in the morning, we weighed anchor, and, +with a steady gale at S.E., turned through the channel, between the +small isles called Makkahaa and Monooafai, it being much wider than the +channel between the last-mentioned island and Pangimodoo. The flood set +strong in our favour, till we were the length of the channel leading up +to the _lagoon_, where the flood from the eastward meets that from the +west. This, together with the indraught of the _lagoon_, and of the +shoals before it, causeth strong ripplings and whirlpools. To add to +these dangers, the depth of water in the channel exceeds the length of a +cable; so that there is no anchorage, except close to the rocks, where +we meet with forty and forty-five fathoms, over a bottom of dark sand. +But then, here, a ship would be exposed to the whirlpools. This +frustrated the design which I had formed, of coming to an anchor as soon +as we were through the narrows, and of making an excursion to see the +funeral. I chose rather to lose that ceremony, than to leave the ships +in a situation in which I did not think them safe. We continued to ply +to windward, between the two tides, without either gaining or losing an +inch, till near high water, when, by a favourable slant, we got into the +eastern tide's influence. We expected, there, to find the ebb to run +strong to the eastward in our favour, but it proved so inconsiderable, +that, at any other time, it would not have been noticed. This informed +us, that most of the water which flows into the _lagoon_, comes from the +N.W., and returns the same way. About five in the afternoon, finding +that we could not get to sea before it was dark, I came to an anchor, +under the shore of Tongataboo, in forty-five fathoms water, and about +two cables length from the reef, that runs along that side of the +island. The Discovery dropped anchor under our stern; but before the +anchor took hold, she drove off the bank, and did not recover it till +after midnight. + +We remained at this station till eleven o'clock the next day, when we +weighed, and plyed to the eastward. But it was ten at night before we +weathered the east end of the island, and were enabled to stretch away +for Middleburgh, or Eooa, (as it is called by the inhabitants,) where we +anchored, at eight o'clock in the next morning, in forty fathoms water, +over a bottom of sand, interspersed with coral rocks; the extremes of +the island extending from N. 40 deg. E., to S. 22 deg. W.; the high land of +Eooa, S. 45 deg. E.; and Tongataboo, from N. 70 deg. W., to N. 19 deg. W., distant +about half a mile from the shore, being nearly the same place where I +had my station in 1773, and then named by me, _English Road_. + +We had no sooner anchored, than Taoofa, the chief, and several other +natives, visited as on board, and seemed to rejoice much at our arrival. +This Taoofa[172] had been my _Tayo_, when I was here, during my last +voyage; consequently, we were not strangers to each other. In a little +time, I went ashore with him, in search of fresh water, the procuring of +which was the chief object that brought me to Eooa. I had been told at +Tongataboo, that there was here a stream, running from the hills into +the sea; but this was not the case now. I was first conducted to a +brackish spring, between low and high water mark, amongst rocks, in the +cove where we landed, and where no one would ever have thought of +looking for what we wanted. However, I believe the water of this spring +might be good, were it possible to take it up before the tide mixes with +it. Finding that we did not like this, our friends took us a little way +into the island, where, in a deep chasm, we found very good water; +which, at the expence of some time and trouble, might be conveyed down +to the shore, by means of spouts or troughs, that could be made with +plantain leaves, and the stem of the tree. But, rather than to undertake +that tedious task, I resolved to rest contented with the supply the +ships had got at Tongataboo. + +[Footnote 172: In the account of Captain Cook's former voyage, he calls +the only chief he then met with, at this place, _Tioony_.--D.] + +Before I returned on board, I set on foot a trade for hogs and yams. Of +the former, we could procure but few; but of the latter, plenty. I put +ashore, at this island, the ram and two ewes, of the Cape of Good Hope +breed of sheep, entrusting them to the care of Taoofa, who seemed proud +of his charge. It was fortunate, perhaps, that Mareewagee, to whom I had +given them, as before mentioned, slighted the present. Eooa not having, +as yet, got any dogs upon it, seems to be a properer place than +Tongataboo for the rearing of sheep. + +As we lay at anchor, this island bore a very different aspect from any +we had lately seen, and formed a most beautiful landscape. It is higher +than any we had passed since leaving New Zealand, (as Kao may justly be +reckoned an immense rock,) and from its top, which is almost flat, +declines very gently toward the sea. As the other isles of this cluster +are level, the eye can discover nothing but the trees that cover them; +but here the land, rising gently upward, presents us with an extensive +prospect, where groves of trees are only interspersed at irregular +distances, in beautiful disorder, and the rest covered with grass. Near +the shore, again, it is quite shaded with various trees, amongst which +are the habitations of the natives; and to the right of our station, was +one of the most extensive groves of cocoa-palms we had ever seen. + +The 13th, in the afternoon, a party of us made an excursion to the +highest part of the island, which was a little to the right of our +ships, in order to have a full view of the country. About half way up, +we crossed a deep valley, the bottom and sides of which, though composed +of hardly any thing but coral rock, were clothed with trees. We were now +about two or three hundred feet above the level of the sea, and yet, +even here, the coral was perforated into all the holes and inequalities +which usually diversify the surface of this substance within the reach +of the tide. Indeed, we found the same coral till we began to approach +the summits of the highest hills; and it was remarkable, that these were +chiefly composed of a yellowish, soft, sandy stone. The soil there, is, +in general, a reddish clay, which, in many places, seemed to be very +deep. On the most elevated part of the whole island, we found a round +platform, or mount of earth, supported by a wall of coral stones; to +bring which to such a height, must have cost much labour. Our guides +told us, that this mount had been erected by order of their chief; and +that they, sometimes, meet there to drink/_kava_. They called it +_etchee_; by which name, an erection which we had seen at Tongataboo, as +already mentioned, was distinguished. Not many paces from it, was a +spring, of excellent water; and, about a mile lower down, a running +stream, which, we were told, found its way to the sea when the rains +were copious. We also met with water in many little holes; and, no +doubt, great plenty might be found by digging. + +From the elevation to which we had ascended, we had a full view of the +whole island, except a part of the south point. The S.E. side, from +which the highest hills we were now upon, are not far distant, rises +with very great inequalities, immediately from the sea, so that the +plains and meadows, of which there are here some of great extent, lie +all on the N.W. side; and as they are adorned with tufts of trees, +intermixed with plantations, they form a very beautiful landscape in +every point of view. While I was surveying this delightful prospect, I +could not help flattering myself with the pleasing idea, that some +future navigator may, from the same station, behold these meadows +stocked with cattle, brought to these islands by the ships of England; +and that the completion of this single benevolent purpose, independently +of all other considerations, would sufficiently mark to posterity, that +our voyages had not been useless to the general interests of humanity. +Besides the plants common on the other neighbouring islands, we found, +on the height, a species of _acrosticum, melastoma_, and fern tree, with +a few other ferns and plants not common lower down. + +Our guides informed us, that all, or most of the land, on this island, +belonged to the great chiefs of Tongataboo, and that the inhabitants +were only tenants or vassals to them. Indeed, this seemed to be the case +at all the other neighbouring isles, except Annamooka, where there were +some chiefs, who seemed to act with some kind of independence. Omai, who +was a great favourite with Feenou, and these people in general, was +tempted with the offer of being made chief of this island, if he would +have staid amongst them; and it is not clear to me, that he would not +have been glad to stay, if the scheme had met with my approbation. I own +I did disapprove of it, but not because I thought that Omai would do +better for himself in his own native isle. + +On returning from my country expedition, we were informed that a party +of the natives had, in the circle where our people traded, struck one of +their own countrymen with a club, which laid bare, or as others said, +fractured his skull, and then broke his thigh with the same, when our +men interposed. He had no signs of life when carried to a neighbouring +house, but afterward recovered a little. On my asking the reason of so +severe a treatment, we were informed, that he had been discovered in a +situation rather indelicate, with a woman who was _taboo'd_. We, +however, understood, that she was no otherwise _taboo'd_, than by +belonging to another person, and rather superior in rank to her gallant. +From this circumstance we had an opportunity of observing how these +people treat such infidelities. But the female sinner has, by far, the +smaller share of punishment for her misdemeanor, as they told us that +she would only receive a slight beating. + +The next morning, I planted a pine-apple, and sowed the seeds of melons +and other vegetables, in the chief's plantation. I had some +encouragement, indeed, to flatter myself, that my endeavours of this +kind would not be fruitless; for, this day, there was served up at my +dinner, a dish of turnips, being the produce of the seeds I had left +here during my last voyage. + +I had fixed upon the 15th for sailing, till Taoofa pressed me to stay a +day or two longer, to receive a present he had prepared for me. This +reason, and the daily expectation of seeing some of our friends from +Tongataboo, induced me to defer my departure. + +Accordingly, the next day I received the chiefs present, consisting of +two small heaps of yams, and some fruit, which seemed to be collected by +a kind of contribution, as at the other isles. On this occasion, most of +the people of the island had assembled at the place; and, as we had +experienced on such numerous meetings amongst their neighbours, gave us +not a little trouble to prevent them from pilfering whatever they could +lay their hands upon. We were entertained with cudgelling, wrestling, +and boxing-matches; and, in the latter, both male and female combatants +exhibited. It was intended to have finished the shew with the _bomai_, +or night dance, but an accident either put a total stop to it, or, at +least, prevented any of us from staying ashore to see it. One of my +people, walking a very little way, was surrounded by twenty or thirty of +the natives, who knocked him down, and stripped him of every thing he +had on his back. On hearing of this, I immediately seized two canoes, +and a large hog, and insisted on Taoofa's causing the clothes to be +restored, and on the offenders being delivered up to me. The chief +seemed much concerned at what had happened, and forthwith took the +necessary steps to satisfy me. This affair so alarmed the assembled +people, that most of them fled. However, when they found that I took no +other measures to revenge the insult, they returned. It was not long +before one of the offenders was delivered up to me, and a shirt and a +pair of trowsers restored. The remainder of the stolen goods not coming +in before night, I was under a necessity of leaving them to go aboard; +for the sea run so high, that it was with the greatest difficulty the +boats could get out of the creek with day-light, much less in the dark. + +The next morning I landed again, having provided myself with a present +for Taoofa, in return for what he had given me. As it was early, there +were but few people at the landing-place, and those few not without +their fears. But on my desiring Omai to assure them that we meant no +harm; and, in confirmation of this assurance, having restored the canoes +and released the offender, whom they had delivered up to me, they +resumed their usual gaiety; and presently a large circle was formed, in +which the chief, and all the principal men of the island, took their +places. The remainder of the clothes were now brought in; but as they +had been torn off the man's back by pieces, they were not worth carrying +on board. Taoofa, on receiving my present, shared it with three or four +other chiefs, keeping only a small part for himself. This present +exceeded their expectation so greatly, that one of their chiefs, a +venerable old man, told me, that they did not deserve it, considering +how little they had given to me, and the ill treatment one of my people +had met with. I remained with them till they had finished their bowl of +_kava_; and having then paid for the hog, which I had taken the day +before, returned on board, with Taoofa, and one of Poulaho's servants, +by whom I sent, as a parting mark of my esteem and regard for that +chief, a piece of bar iron, being as valuable a present as any I could +make to him. + +Soon after, we weighed, and with a light breeze at S.E., stood out to +sea; and then Tafooa, and a few other natives, that were in the ship, +left us. On heaving up the anchor, we found that the cable had suffered +considerably by the rocks; so that the bottom, in this road, is not to +be depended upon. Besides this, we experienced, that a prodigious swell +rolls in there from the S.W. + +We had not been long under sail, before we observed a sailing canoe +coming from Tongataboo, and entering the creek before which we had +anchored. Same hours after, a small canoe, conducted by four men, came +off to us. For, as we had but little wind, we were still at no great +distance front the land. These men told us, that the sailing canoe, +which we had seen arrive from Tongataboo, had brought orders to the +people of Eooa, to furnish us with a certain number of hogs; and that, +in two days, the king and other chiefs, would be with us. They, +therefore, desired we would return to our former station. There was no +reason to doubt the truth of what these men told us. Two of them had +actually come from Tongataboo in the sailing canoe; and they had no +view in coming off to us, but to give this intelligence. However, as we +were now clear of the land, it was not a sufficient inducement to bring +me back, especially as we had already on board a stock of fresh +provisions, sufficient, in all probability, to last during our passage +to Otaheite. Besides Taoofa's present, we had got a good quantity of +yams at Eooa, in exchange chiefly for small nails. Our supply of hogs +was also considerably increased there; though, doubtless, we should have +got many more, if the chiefs of Tongataboo had been with us, whose +property they mostly were. At the approach of night, these men finding +that we would not return, left us; as also some others who had come off +in two canoes, with a few cocoa-nuts and shaddocks, to exchange them for +what they could get; the eagerness of these people to get into their +possession more of our commodities, inducing them to follow the ships +out to sea, and to continue their intercourse with us to the last +moment. + + +SECTION X. + +_Advantages derived from visiting the Friendly Islands.--Best Articles +for Traffic.--Refreshments that may be procured.--The Number of the +Islands, and their Names.--Keppel's and Boscawen's Islands belong to +them.--Account of Vavaoo--Of Hamoa--Of Feejee.--Voyages of the Natives +in their Canoes.--Difficulty of procuring exact Information.--Persons of +the Inhabitants of both Sexes.--Their Colour.--Diseases.--Their general +Character.--Manner of wearing their Hair.--Of puncturing their +Bodies.--Their Clothing and Ornaments.--Personal Cleanliness_. + + +Thus we took leave of the Friendly Islands and their inhabitants, after +a stay of between two and three months, during which time, we lived +together in the most cordial friendship. Some accidental differences, it +is true, now and then happened, owing to their great propensity to +thieving; but too often encouraged by the negligence of our own people. +But these differences were never attended with any fatal consequences, +to prevent which, all my measures were directed; and I believe few on +board our ships left our friends here without some regret. The time +employed amongst them was not thrown away. We expended very little of +our sea provisions, subsisting, in general, upon the produce of the +islands, while we staid, and carrying away with us a quantity of +refreshments sufficient to last till our arrival at another station, +where we could depend upon a fresh supply. I was not sorry, besides, to +have had an opportunity of bettering the condition of these good people, +by leaving the useful animals before-mentioned among them; and, at the +same time, those designed for Otaheite, received fresh strength in the +pastures of Tongataboo. Upon the whole, therefore, the advantages we +received by touching here were very great; and I had the additional +satisfaction to reflect, that they were received, without retarding one +moment, the prosecution of the great object of our voyage; the season +for proceeding to the north, being, as has been already observed, lost, +before I took the resolution of bearing away for these islands. + +But besides the immediate advantages, which both the natives of the +Friendly Islands and ourselves received by this visit, future navigators +from Europe, if any such should ever tread our steps, will profit by the +knowledge I acquired of the geography of this part of the Pacific Ocean; +and the more philosophical reader, who loves to view human nature in new +situations, and to speculate on singular, but faithful representations +of the persons, the customs, the arts, the religion, the government, and +the language of uncultivated man, in remote and fresh-discovered +quarters of the globe, will perhaps find matter of amusement, if not of +instruction, in the information which I have been enabled to convey to +him, concerning the inhabitants of this Archipelago. I shall suspend my +narrative of the progress of the voyage, while I faithfully relate what +I had opportunities of collecting on these several topics. + +We found by our experience, that the best articles for traffic at these +islands, are iron tools in general. Axes and hatchets, nails, from the +largest spike down to tenpenny ones, rasps, files, and knives, are much +sought after. Red cloth, and linen, both white and coloured, +looking-glasses and beads are also in estimation; but of the latter +those that are blue are preferred to all others, and white ones are +thought the least valuable. A string of large blue beads would at any +time purchase a hog. But it must be observed, that such articles as are +merely ornaments, may be highly esteemed at one time, and not so at +another. When we first arrived at Annamooka, the people there would +hardly take them in exchange even for fruit; but when Feenou came, this +great man set the fashion, and brought them into vogue, till they rose +in their value to what I have just mentioned. + +In return for the favourite commodities which I have enumerated, all the +refreshments may be procured that the islands produce. These are, hogs, +fowls, fish, yams, breadfruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, sugar-cane, and, +in general, every such supply as can be met with at Otaheite, or any of +the Society Islands. The yams of the Friendly Islands are excellent, +and, when grown to perfection, keep very well at sea. But their pork, +bread-fruit, and plantains, though far from despicable, are nevertheless +much inferior in quality to the same articles at Otaheite, and in its +neighbourhood. + +Good water, which ships on long voyages stand so much in need of, is +scarce at these islands. It may be found, it is true, on them all; but +still either in too inconsiderable quantities, or in situations too +inconvenient, to serve the purposes of navigators. However, as the +islands afford plenty of provisions, and particularly of cocoa-nuts, +ships may make a tolerable shift with such water as is to be got; and if +one is not over nice, there will be no want. While we lay at anchor +under Kotoo, on our return from Hepaee, some people from Kao informed +us, that there was a stream of water there, which, pouring down from the +mountain, runs into the sea on the S.W. side of the island; that is, on, +the side that faces Toofoa, another island remarkable for its height, as +also for having a considerable volcano in it, which, as has been already +mentioned, burnt violently all the time that we were in its +neighbourhood. It may be worth while for future navigators to attend to +this intelligence about the stream of water at Kao, especially as we +learned that there was anchorage on that part of the coast. The black +stone, of which the natives of the Friendly Islands make their hatchets +and other tools, we were informed, is the production of Toofoa. + +Under the denomination of Friendly Islands, we must include, not only +the group at Hepaee which I visited, but also all those islands that +have been discovered nearly under the same meridian to the north, as +well as some others that have never been seen hitherto by any European +navigators, but are under the dominion of Tongataboo, which, though not +the largest, is the capital and seat of government. + +According to the information that we received there, this archipelago is +very extensive. Above one hundred and fifty islands were reckoned up to +us by the natives, who made use of bits of leaves to ascertain their +number; and Mr Anderson, with his usual diligence, even procured all +their names. Fifteen of them are said to be high or hilly, such, as +Toofoa and Eooa, and thirty-five of them large. Of these, only three +were seen this voyage; Hepaee, (which is considered by the natives as +one island,) Tongataboo, and Eooa: Of the size of the unexplored +thirty-two, nothing more can be mentioned, but that they must be all +larger than Annamooka, which those from whom we had our information +ranked amongst the smaller isles. Some, or indeed several of this latter +denomination, are mere spots without inhabitants. But it must be left to +future navigators to introduce into the geography of this part of the +South Pacific Ocean the exact situation and size of near a hundred more +islands in this neighbourhood, which we had not an opportunity to +explore, and whose existence we only learnt from the testimony of our +friends as above-mentioned. On their authority the following list of +them was made, and it may serve as a ground-work for farther +investigation. + +_Names of the Friendly Islands, and others, in that Neighbourhood, +mentioned by the Inhabitants of Anamooka, Hepaee, and Tongataboo_.[173] + +[Footnote 173: Those islands which the natives represented as large +ones, are distinguished in Italics.] + + Komooefeeva, Noogoofaeeou, Novababoo, + Kollalona, Koreemou, Golabbe, + Felongaboonga, Failemaia, Vagaeetoo, + Kovereetoa, Koweeka, Gowakka, + Fonogooeatta, Konookoonama, _Goofoo_, + Modooanoogoo Kooonoogoo, Mafanna, + noogoo Geenageena, Kolloooa, + Tongooa, Kowourogoheefo, Tabanna, + Koooa, Kottejeea, Motooha, + Fenooa eeka, Kokabba, Looakabba, + _Vavaoo_ Boloa, Toofanaetollo, + Koloa, Toofagga, Toofanaelaa, + Fafeene, Loogoobahanga, _Kogoopoloo_, + Taoonga, Taoola, _Havaeeeeke_, + Kobakeemotoo, Maneeneeta, _Tootooeela_, + Kongahoonoho, Fonooaooma, _Manooka_, + Komalla, Fonooonneonne, _Leshainga_, + Konoababoo, Wegaffa, _Pappataia_, + Konnetalle, Fooamotoo, _Loubatta_, + Komongoraffa, Fonooalaiee, _Oloo_, + Kotoolooa, Tattahoi, _Takounove_, + Kologobeele, Latte, _Kapaoo_, + Kollokolahee, _Neuafo, Kovooeea_, + Matageefaia, _Feejee, Kongaireekee_; + Mallajee, _Oowaia, Tafeedoowaia_, + Mallalahee, _Kongaiarahoi, Hamoa_, + Gonoogoolaiee, _Kotoobooo, Neeootabootaboo_, + Toonabai, _Komotte, Fotoona_, + Konnevy, _Komoarra, Vytooboo_, + Konnevao, _Kolaiva, Lotooma_, + Moggodoo, _Kofoona, Toggelao_, + Looamoggo, _Konnagillelaivoo, Talava_. + +I have not the least doubt that Prince William's Islands, discovered and +so named by Tasman, are included in the foregoing list. For while we lay +at Hapaee, one of the natives told me, that three or four days sail from +thence to the N.W., there was a cluster of small islands, consisting of +upwards of forty. This situation corresponds very well with that +assigned in the accounts we have of Tasman's voyage, to his Prince +William's Islands.[174] + +[Footnote 174: Tasman saw eighteen or twenty of these small islands, +every one of which was surrounded with sands, shoals, and rocks. They +are also called in some charts, Heemskirk's Banks. See Dalrymple's +Collection of Voyages to the South Pacific Ocean, vol. ii. p. 38, and +Campbell's edition of Harris's, vol. i. p. 325.--D.] + +We have also very good authority to believe that Keppel's and +Boscawen's Island, two of Captain Wallis's discoveries in 1765, are +comprehended in our list; and that they are not only well known to these +people, but are under the same sovereign. The following information +seemed to me decisive as to this: Upon my enquiring one day of Poulaho, +the king, in what manner the inhabitants of Tongataboo had acquired the +knowledge of iron, and from what quarter they had procured a small iron +tool which I had seen amongst them when I first visited their island, +during my former voyage, he informed me, that they had received this +iron from an island which he called Neeootabootaboo. Carrying my +enquiries further, I then desired to know whether he had ever been +informed from whom the people of Neeootabootaboo had got it. I found him +perfectly acquainted with its history. He said that one of those +islanders sold a club for five nails, to a ship which had touched there, +and that these five nails afterward were sent to Tongataboo. He added, +that this was the first iron known amongst them, so that what Tasman +left of that metal must have been worn out, and forgot long ago. I was +very particular in my enquiries about the situation, size, and form of +the island; expressing my desire to know when this ship had touched +there, how long she staid, and whether any more were in company. The +leading facts appeared to be fresh in his memory. He said that there was +but one ship; that she did not come to an anchor, but left the island +after her boat had been on shore. And from many circumstances which he +mentioned, It could not be many years since this had happened. According +to his information, there are two islands near each other, which he +himself had been at. The one he described as high and peaked, like Kao, +and he called it Kootahee; the other, where the people of the ship +landed, called Neeootabootaboo, he represented as much lower. He added, +that the natives of both are the same sort of people with those of +Tongataboo, built their canoes in the same manner, that their islands +had hogs and fowls, and in general the same vegetable productions. The +ship so pointedly referred to in this conversation, could be no other +than the Dolphin; the only single ship from Europe, as far as we have +ever learned, that had touched of late years at any island in this part +of the Pacific Ocean, prior to my former visit of the Friendly +Islands.[175] + +[Footnote 175: See Captain Wallis's Voyage in this Collection, vol. xii. +Captain Wallis calls both these islands high ones. But the superior +height of one of them may be inferred, from his saying, that it appears +like a sugar-loaf. This strongly marks its resemblance to Kao. From +comparing Poulaho's intelligence to Captain Cook, with Captain Wallis's +account, it seems to be past all doubt that Boscawen's Island is our +Kotahee, and Keppel's Island our Neeootabootaboo. The last is one of the +large islands marked in the foregoing list. The reader, who has been +already apprized of the variations of our people in writing down what +the natives pronounced, will hardly doubt that Kottejeea and Kootahee +are the same.--D.] + +But the most considerable islands in this neighbourhood that we now +heard of, (and we heard a great deal about them,) are Hamoa, Vavaoo, and +Feejee. Each of these was represented to us as larger than Tongataboo. +No European that we know of, has, as yet, seen any of them. Tasman, +indeed, lays down in his chart an island nearly in the situation where, +I suppose Vavaoo to be, that is about the latitude of 91 deg..[176] But then +that island is there marked as a very small one, whereas Vavaoo, +according to the united testimony of all our friends at Tongataboo, +exceeds the size of their own island, and has high mountains, I should +certainly have visited it, and have accompanied Feenou from Hapaee, if +he had not then discouraged me, by representing it to be very +inconsiderable, and without any harbour. But Poulaho, the king, +afterward assured me that it was a large island; and that it not only +produced every thing in common with Tongataboo, but had the peculiar +advantage of possessing several streams of fresh water, with as good a +harbour as that which we found at his capital island. He offered to +attend me if I would visit it; adding, that if I did not find every +thing agreeing with his representation, I might kill him. I had not the +least doubt of the truth of his intelligence; and was satisfied that +Feenou, from some interested view, attempted to deceive me. + +[Footnote 176: Neither Dalrymple nor Campbell, in their accounts of +Tasman's voyage, take any particular notice of his having seen such an +island. The chart here referred to by Captain Cook, is probably Mr +Dalrymple's, in his Collection of Voyages, where Tasman's track is +marked accurately; and several very small spots of land are laid down in +the situation here mentioned.--D.] + +Hamoa, which is also under the dominion of Tongataboo, lies two days +sail N.W. from Vavaoo; it was described to me as the largest of all +their islands, as affording harbours and good water, and as producing in +abundance every article of refreshment found at the places we visited. +Poulaho himself frequently resides there. It should seem that the people +of this island are in high estimation at Tongataboo; for we were told +that some of the songs and dances with which we were entertained, had +been copied from theirs; and we saw some houses said to be built after +their fashion. Mr Anderson, always inquisitive about such matters, +learnt the three following words of the dialect of Hamoa; + + _Tamolao_,[177] a chief man. + _Tamaety_, a chief woman. + _Solle_, a common man. + +Feejee, as we were told, lies three days sail from Tongataboo, in the +direction of N.W. by W. It was described to us as a high, but very +fruitful island, abounding with hogs, dogs, fowls, and all the kinds of +fruit and roots that are found in any of the others, and as much larger +than Tongataboo; to the dominion of which, as was represented, to us, it +is not subject, as the other islands of this archipelago are. On the +contrary, Feejee and Tongataboo frequently make war upon each other. And +it appeared from several circumstances, that the inhabitants of the +latter are much afraid of this enemy. They used to express their sense +of their own inferiority to the Feejee men by bending the body forward, +and covering the face with their hands. And it is no wonder that they +should be under this dread; for those of Feejee are formidable on +account of the dexterity with which they use their bows and slings, but +much more so on account of the savage practice to which they are +addicted, like those of New Zealand, of eating their enemies whom they +kill in battle. We were satisfied that this was not a misrepresentation; +for we met with several Feejee people at Tongataboo, and, on enquiring +of them, they did not deny the charge. + +[Footnote 177: In two or three preceding notes, extracts have been made +from the Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses, as marking a strong +resemblance between some of the customs of the inhabitants of the +Caroline Islands, and those which Captain Cook describes as prevailing +at an immense distance, in the islands which he visited in the South +Pacific Ocean. Possibly, however, the presumption arising from this +resemblance, that all these islands were peopled by the same nation, or +tribe, may be resisted, under the plausible pretence, that customs very +similar prevail amongst very distant people, without inferring any other +common source, besides the general principles of human nature, the same +in all ages, and every part of the globe. The reader, perhaps, will not +think this pretence applicable to the matter before us, if he attends to +the following very obvious distinction: Those customs which have their +foundation in wants that are common to the whole human species, and +which are confined to the contrivance of means to relieve those wants, +may well be supposed to bear a strong resemblance, without warranting +the conclusion, that they who use them have copied each other, or have +derived them from one common source; human sagacity being the same every +where, and the means adapted to the relief of any particular natural +want, especially in countries similarly uncultivated, being but few. +Thus the most distant tribes, as widely separated as the Kamtschadales +are from the Brazilians, may produce their fire by rubbing two sticks +upon each other, without giving us the least foundation for supposing, +that either of them imitated the other, or derived the invention from a +source of instruction common to both. But this seems not to be the case, +with regard to those customs to which no general principle of human +nature has given birth, and which have their establishment solely from +the endless varieties of local whim and national fashion. Of this latter +kind, those customs obviously are, that belong both to the North and to +the South Pacific Islands, from which we would infer, that they were +originally one nation; and the men of Mangeea, and the men of the New +Philippines, who pay their respects to a person whom they mean to +honour, by rubbing his hand over their faces, bid fair to have learnt +their mode of salutation in the same school. But if this observation +should not have removed the doubts of the sceptical refiner, probably he +will hardly venture to persist in denying the identity of race, +contended for in the present instance, when he shall observe, that, to +the proof drawn from affinity of customs, we have it in our power to add +that most unexceptionable one, drawn from affinity of language. +_Tamoloa_, we now know, is the word used at Hamoa, one of the Friendly +Islands, to signify a chief: And whoever looks into the Lettres +Edifiantes et Curieuses, will see this is the very name by which the +inhabitants of the Caroline Islands distinguish their principal men. We +have, in two preceding notes, inserted passages from Father Cantova's +account of them, where their _Tamoles_ are spoken of; and he repeats the +word at least a dozen times in the course of a few pages. But I cannot +avoid transcribing from him, the following very decisive testimony, +which renders any other quotation superfluous:--"L'autoritie du +Gouvernement se partage entre plusieurs familles nobles, dont les Chefs +s'appellent _Tamoles_. Il y a outre cela, dans chaque province, un +principale _Tamole_, auquel tous les autres sont soumis."--Lettres +Edifiantes et Curieuses, tom, xv p. 312.--D. + +Mr Faber, in a prospectus to his work on Pagan Idolatry, has availed +himself of the important principle contained in this note, to infer a +common origin from the peculiar resemblance of religious opinions and +ceremonies among the various systems of paganism. His reasoning is +precisely the same as that which is used in tracing the descent of +nations, and it is very distinctly stated by him in the following +passage:--"Things, in themselves not _arbitrary_, prove nothing +whatsoever: And tribes may be alike hunters, and fishers, and bowmen, +though they have sprung from very different ancestors. But things, in +themselves _altogether arbitrary_, are acknowledged to form the basis of +a reasonable argument: And, if tribes are found to speak dialects of the +same language, and to be attached throughout to the same whimsical +customs, which are not deducible from _the nature of things_, but from +_pure caprice_ merely, _such _points of coincidence are commonly and +rationally thought to furnish a moral demonstration of the common origin +of those tribes." An objection to this reasoning instantly rises from a +denial of the notion, that any thing can be arbitrary, in which such a +limited being as man is concerned. A skilful opponent, in other words, +will move the previous question respecting man's free agency, and will +not move a step in consequences, till it be decided. Nay, even if it +were so, in favour of the highest claims which have ever been put in on +the side of liberty, still he might demur, and with good reason indeed, +till the fact of arbitrariness in any case, or cases, was ascertained. +Obviously, would he say, we are not entitled to make inferences from the +nature of things, till we are acquainted with it. But who, he would ask, +can with propriety say, his acquaintance with nature is so complete, +that he can at once, and without possibility of mistake, determine, what +does and what does not belong to it? It is to be feared, that a man has +but a bad case in hand, who, in order to establish its truth, must first +prove his own infallibility. Such an objection, therefore, as has been +now stated, is evidently not destitute of strength. But on the whole, a +careful examination will convince any unprejudiced person, that the +reasoning alluded to, is entitled to considerable regard, and yields +very probable deductions. Only let us not urge it too far, and let us by +all means recollect, that things which to lookers-on seem altogether +arbitrary, may nevertheless be accounted for by the agents themselves, +on principles which have their foundation in the common nature of our +species, independent of any casual communication or intercourse between +us.--E.] + +Now that I am again led to speak of cannibals, let me ask those who +maintain, that the want of food first brings men to feed on human flesh, +what is it that induces the Feejee people to keep it up in the midst of +plenty? This practice is detested very much by those of Tongataboo, who +cultivate the friendship of their savage neighbours of Feejee, +apparently out of fear, though they sometimes venture to skirmish with +them on their own ground, and carry off red feathers as their booty, +which are in great plenty there, and, as has been frequently mentioned, +are in great estimation amongst our Friendly Islanders. When the two +islands are at peace, the intercourse between them seems to be pretty +frequent, though they have, doubtless, been but lately known to each +other; or we may suppose that Tongataboo, and its adjoining islands, +would have been supplied before this with a breed of dogs, which abound +at Feejee, and had not been introduced at Tongataboo so late as 1773, +when I first visited it. The natives of Feejee, whom we met with here, +were of a colour that was a full shade darker than that of the +inhabitants of the Friendly Islands in general. One of them had his left +ear slit, and the lobe was so distended, that it almost reached his +shoulder, which singularity I had met with at other islands of the South +Sea, during my second voyage. It appeared to me that the Feejee men whom +we now saw were much respected here, not only perhaps from the power and +cruel manner of their nation's going to war, but also from their +ingenuity. For they seem to excel the inhabitants of Tongataboo in that +respect, if we might judge from several specimens of their skill in +workmanship which we saw, such as clubs and spears, which were carved in +a very masterly manner, cloth beautifully chequered, variegated mats, +earthen pots, and some other articles, all which had a cast of +superiority in the execution. + +I have mentioned that Feejee lies three days sail from Tongataboo, +because these people have no other method of measuring the distance from +island to island, but by expressing the time required to make the voyage +in one of their canoes. In order to ascertain this with some precision, +or at least to form some judgment how far these canoes can sail in a +moderate gale in any given time, I went on board one of them, when under +sail, and, by several trials with the log, found that she went seven +knots, or miles, in an hour, close hauled, in a gentle gale. From this I +judge, that they will sail, on a medium, With such breezes as generally +blow in their sea, about seven or eight miles in an hour. But the +length of each day is not to be reckoned at twenty-four hours. For when +they speak of one day's sail, they mean no more than from the morning to +the evening of the same day, that is, ten or twelve hours at most. And +two days sail with them signifies from the morning of the first day to +the evening of the second, and so for any other number of days. In these +navigations, the sun is their guide by day, and the stars by night. When +these are obscured, they have recourse to the points from whence the +winds and the waves came upon the vessel. If during the obscuration, +both the wind and the waves should shift, (which, within the limits of +the trade-wind seldom happens at any other time,) they are then +bewildered, frequently miss their intended port, and are never heard of +more. The history of Omai's countrymen, who were driven, to Wateeoo, +leads us to infer, that those not heard of are not always lost. + +Of all the harbours and anchoring places I have met with among these +islands, that of Tongataboo is by far the best, not only on account of +its great security, but of its capacity, and of the goodness of its +bottom. The risk that we ran in entering it from the north, ought to be +a sufficient caution to every future commander, not to attempt that +passage again with a ship of burden, since the other, by which we left +it, is so much more easy and safe. To sail into it by this eastern +channel, steer in for the N.E. point of the island, and keep along the +north shore, with the small isles on your starboard, till you are the +length of the east point of the entrance into the _lagoon_, then edge +over for the reef of the small isles, and, on following its direction, +it will conduct you through between Makkahaa and Monoofai, or the fourth +and fifth isles, which you will perceive to lie off the west point of +the _lagoon_. Or you may go between the third and fourth islands, that +is, between Pangimodoo and Monooafai, but this channel is much narrower +than the other. There runs a very strong tide in both. The flood, as I +have observed before, comes in from the N.W., and the ebb returns the +same way; but I shall speak of the tides in another place. As soon as +you are through either of these channels, haul in for the shore of +Tongataboo, and anchor between it and Pangimodoo, before a creek leading +into the _lagoon_, into which boats can go at half flood. + +Although Tongataboo has the best harbour, Annamooka furnishes the best +water, and yet it cannot be called good. However, by digging holes near +the side of the pond, we can get what may be called tolerable. This +island too is the best situated for drawing refreshments from all the +others, as being nearly in the centre of the whole group. Besides the +road in which we anchored, and the harbour within the south-west point, +there is a creek in the reef before the eastern sandy cove, on the north +side of the island, in which two or three ships may lie very securely by +mooring head and stern, with their anchors or moorings fast to the +rocks. + +I have already described the Hepaee Islands, and shall only add to that +description, by mentioning that they extend S.W. by S., and N.E. by N., +about nineteen miles. The north end lies in the latitude of 19 deg. 39" S., +and 33' of longitude to the east of Annamooka. Between them are a great +many small islands, sand-banks, and breakers; so, that, the safest way +to arrive at Hepaee, is either by the course I held, or round by the +north, according to the situation of the ship bound thither. Lefooga, +off which we anchored, is the most fertile isle of those that are called +Hepaee, and consequently is the best inhabited. There is anchorage along +the north-west side of this island; but it will be necessary to examine +the ground well before you moor. For, although the lead may bring up +fine sand, there are nevertheless some sharp coral rocks, that would +soon destroy the cables. + +What has been here omitted concerning the geography of these islands, +will be found in the narrative of my last voyage. To that narrative I +must also refer, for such particulars concerning the inhabitants, their +manners, and arts, as I had observed then, and about which I saw no +reason to change my judgment. At present, I shall confine myself to such +interesting particulars, as either were not mentioned in that narrative, +or were imperfectly or incorrectly represented there, and to such as may +serve to explain some passages in the foregoing account of our +transactions with the natives. + +It may, indeed, be expected, that after spending between two and three +months amongst them, I should be enabled to clear up every difficulty, +and to give a tolerably satisfactory account of their customs, opinions, +and institutions, both civil and religious, especially as we had a +person on board, who might be supposed qualified to act the part of an +interpreter, by understanding their language and ours. But poor Omai was +very deficient. For unless the object or thing we wanted to enquire +about, was actually before us, we found it difficult to gain a tolerable +knowledge of it from information only, without falling into a hundred +mistakes; and to such mistakes Omai was more liable than we were. For, +having no curiosity, he never gave himself the trouble to make remarks +for himself; and, when he was disposed to explain matters to us, his +ideas appeared to be so limited, and perhaps so different from ours, +that his accounts were often so confused, as to perplex instead of +instructing us. Add to this, that it was very rare that we found amongst +the natives, a person who united the ability and the inclination to give +us the information we wanted; and we found, that most of them hated to +be troubled with what they probably thought idle questions. Our +situation at Tongataboo, where we remained the longest, was like-wise +unfavourable. It was in a part of the country where there were few +inhabitants, except fishers. It was always holiday with our visitors, as +well as with those we visited; so that we had but few opportunities of +observing what was really the domestic way of living of the natives. +Under these disadvantages, it is not surprising that we should not be +able to bring away with us satisfactory accounts of many things; but +some of us endeavoured to remedy those disadvantages by diligent +observation, and I am indebted to Mr Anderson for a considerable share +of what follows in this and in the following section. In other matters, +I have only expressed, nearly in his own words, remarks that coincided +with mine; but what relates to the religion and language of these people +is entirely his own. + +The natives of the Friendly Islands seldom exceed the common stature +(though we have measured some who were above six feet), but are very +strong and well-made, especially as to their limbs. They are generally +broad about the shoulders, and though the muscular disposition of the +men, which seems a consequence of much action, rather conveys the +appearance of strength than of beauty, there are several to be seen who +are really handsome. Their features are very various, insomuch, that it +is scarcely possible to fix on any general likeness by which to +characterize them, unless it be a fullness at the point of the nose, +which is very common. But, on the other hand, we met with hundreds of +truly European faces, and many genuine Roman noses amongst them. Their +eyes and teeth are good; but the last neither so remarkably white nor so +well set, as is often found amongst Indian nations; though to balance +that, few of them have any uncommon thickness about the lips, a defect +as frequent as the other perfection. + +The women are not so much distinguished from the men by their features, +as by their general form, which is, for the most part, destitute of that +strong fleshy firmness that appears in the latter. Though the features +of some are so delicate, as not only to be a true index of their sex, +but to lay claim to a considerable share of beauty and expression, the +rule is by no means so general as in many other countries. But, at the +same time, this is frequently the most exceptionable part; for the +bodies and limbs of most of the females, are well proportioned, and some +absolutely perfect models of a beautiful figure. But the most remarkable +distinction in the women, is the uncommon smallness and delicacy of +their fingers, which may be put in competition with the finest in +Europe. + +The general colour is a cast deeper than the copper brown; but several +of the men and women have a true olive complexion, and some of the last +are even a great deal fairer, which is probably the effect of being less +exposed to the sun, as a tendency to corpulence, in a few of the +principal people, seems to be the consequence of a more indolent life. +It is also amongst the last, that a soft clear skin is most frequently +observed. Amongst the bulk of the people, the skin is more commonly of a +dull hue, with some degree of roughness, especially the parts that are +not covered, which perhaps may be occasioned by some cutaneous disease. +We saw a man and boy at Hepaee, and a child at Annamooka, perfectly +white. Such have been found amongst all black nations; but I apprehend +that their colour is rather a disease, than a natural phenomenon. + +There are nevertheless, upon the whole, few natural defects or +deformities to be found amongst them, though we saw two or three with +their feet bent inward, and some afflicted with a sort of blindness, +occasioned by a disease of the _cornea_. Neither are they exempt from +some other diseases. The most common of which is the tetter, or +ring-worm, that seems to affect almost one half of them, and leaves +whitish serpentine marks every where behind it. But this is of less +consequence than another disease which is very frequent, and appears on +every part of the body in large broad ulcers, with thick white edges, +discharging a clear thin matter, some of which had a very virulent +appearance, particularly those on the face, which were shocking to look +at. And yet we met with some who seemed to be cured of it, and others in +a fair way of being cured; but this was not effected without the loss of +the nose, or of the best part of it. As we know for a certainty, (and +the fact is acknowledged by themselves), that the people of these +islands were subject to this loathsome disease before the English first +visited them, notwithstanding the similarity of symptoms, it cannot be +the effect of the venereal contagion, unless we adopt a supposition, +which I could wish had a sufficient foundation in truth, that the +venereal disorder was not introduced here from Europe by our ships in +1773. It assuredly was now found to exist amongst them, for we had not +been long there, before some of our people received the infection; and I +had the mortification to learn from thence, that all the care I took +when I first visited these islands to prevent this dreadful disease from +being communicated to their inhabitants, had proved ineffectual. What is +extraordinary, they do not seem to regard it much; and as we saw few +signs of its destroying effects, probably the climate, and the way of +living of these people, greatly abate its virulence. There are two other +diseases frequent amongst them; one of which is an indolent firm +swelling, which affects the legs and arms, and increases them to an +extraordinary size in their whole length. The other is a tumour of the +same sort in the testicles, which sometimes exceed the size of the two +fists. But, in other respects, they may be considered as uncommonly +healthy, not a single person having been seen, during our stay, confined +to the house by sickness of any kind. On the contrary, their strength +and activity are every way answerable to their muscular appearance; and +they exert both, in their usual employment and in their diversions, in +such a manner, that there can be no doubt of their being; as yet, little +debilitated by the numerous diseases that are the consequence of +indolence, and an unnatural method of life. + +The graceful air and firm step with which these people walk, are not the +least obvious proof of their personal accomplishments. They consider +this as a thing so natural, or so necessary to be acquired, that nothing +used to excite their laughter sooner, than to see us frequently +stumbling upon the roots of trees, or other inequalities of the ground. + +Their countenances very remarkably express the abundant mildness or +good-nature which they possess; and are entirely free from that savage +keenness which marks nations in a barbarous state. One would, indeed, be +apt to fancy that they had been bred up under the severest restrictions, +to acquire an aspect so settled, and such a command of their passions, +as well as steadiness in conduct. But they are, at the same time, frank, +cheerful, and good-humoured; though sometimes in the presence of their +chiefs, they put on a degree of gravity, and such a serious air, as +becomes stiff and awkward, and has an appearance of reserve. + +Their peaceable disposition is sufficiently evinced from the friendly +reception all strangers have met with who have visited them. Instead of +offering to attack them openly or clandestinely, as has been the case +with most of the inhabitants of these seas, they have never appeared, in +the smallest degree, hostile; but, on the contrary, like the most +civilized people, have courted an intercourse with, their visitors by +bartering, which is the only medium that unites all nations in a sort of +friendship. They understand barter (which they call _fukkatou_) so +perfectly, that at first we imagined they might have acquired this +knowledge of it by commercial intercourse with the neighbouring islands; +but we were afterward assured, that they had little or no traffic, +except with Feejee, from which they get the red feathers, and the few +other articles mentioned before. Perhaps no nation in the world traffic +with more honesty and less distrust. We could always safely permit them +to examine our goods, and to hand them about one to another; and they +put the same confidence in us. If either party repented of the bargain, +the goods were re-exchanged with mutual consent and good-humour. Upon +the whole, they seem possessed of many of the most excellent qualities +that adorn the human mind; such as industry, ingenuity, perseverance, +affability, and, perhaps, other virtues which our short stay with them +might prevent our observing. + +The only defect sullying their character, that we know of, is a +propensity to thieving, to which we found those of all ages, and both +sexes, addicted, and to an uncommon degree. It should, however, be +considered, that this exceptionable part of their conduct seemed to +exist merely with respect to us; for, in their general intercourse with +one another, I had reason to be of opinion, that thefts do not happen +more frequently (perhaps less so) than in other countries, the dishonest +practices of whose worthless individuals are not supposed to authorise +any indiscriminate censure on the whole body of the people. Great +allowances should be made for the foibles of these poor natives of the +Pacific Ocean, whose minds were overpowered with the glare of objects, +equally new to them, as they were captivating. Stealing, amongst the +civilized and enlightened nations of the world, may well be considered +as denoting a character deeply stained with moral turpitude, with +avarice unrestrained by the known rules of right, and with profligacy +producing extreme indigence, and neglecting the means of relieving it. +But at the Friendly and other islands which we visited, the thefts, so +frequently committed by the natives, of what we had brought along with +us, may be fairly traced to less culpable motives. They seemed to arise +solely from an intense curiosity or desire to possess something which +they had not been accustomed to before, and belonging to a sort of +people so different from themselves. And, perhaps, if it were possible, +that a set of beings, seemingly as superior in our judgment, as we are +in theirs, should appear amongst us, it might be doubted, whether our +natural regard to justice would be able to restrain many from falling +into the same error. That I have assigned the true motive for their +propensity to this practice, appears from their stealing every thing +indiscriminately at first sight, before they could have the least +conception of converting their prize to any one useful purpose. But I +believe with us, no person would forfeit his reputation, or expose +himself to punishment, without knowing, before-hand, how to employ the +stolen goods. Upon the whole, the pilfering disposition of these +islanders, though certainly disagreeable and troublesome to strangers, +was the means of affording us some information as to the quickness of +their intellects. For their small thefts were committed with much +dexterity; and those of greater consequence with a plan or scheme suited +to the importance of the objects. An extraordinary instance of the last +sort, their attempts to carry away one of the Discovery's anchors at +mid-day, has been already related. + +Their hair is, in general, straight, thick, and strong, though a few +have it bushy and frizzled. The natural colour, I believe, almost +without exception, is black; but the greatest part of the men, and some +of the women, have it stained of a brown or purple colour, and a few of +an orange cast. The first colour is produced by applying a sort of +plaster of burnt coral, mixed with water; the second, by the raspings of +a reddish wood, which is made up with water into a poultice, and laid +over the hair; and the third is, I believe, the effect of _turmeric_ +root. + +When I first visited these islands, I thought it had been an universal +custom for both men and women to wear the hair short; but, during our +present longer stay, we saw a great many exceptions. Indeed, they are so +whimsical in their fashions of wearing it, that it is hard to tell which +is most in vogue. Some have it cut off from one side of the head, while +that on the other remains long; some have only a portion of it cut +short, or perhaps shaved; others have it entirely cut off, except a +single lock, which is left commonly on one side; or it is suffered to +grow to its full length, without any of these mutilations. The women in +general wear it short. The men have their beards cut short; and both men +and women strip the hair from their arm pits. The operation by which +this is performed has been already described. The men are stained from +about the middle of the belly, to about half way down their thighs, +with a deep, blue colour. This is done with a flat bone instrument, cut +full of fine teeth, which, being dipped in the staining mixture, +prepared from the juice of the _dooe dooe_, is struck into the skin with +a bit of stick, and, by that means, indelible marks are made. In this +manner they trace lines and figures, which, in some, are very elegant, +both from the variety, and from the arrangement. The women have only a +few small lines or spots, thus imprinted, on the inside of their hands. +Their kings, as a mark of distinction, are exempted from this custom, as +also from inflicting on themselves any of those bloody marks of +mourning, which shall be mentioned in another place. + +The men are all circumcised, or rather supercised; as the operation +consists in cutting off only a small piece of the foreskin at the upper +part, which, by that means, is rendered incapable ever after of covering +the _glans_. This is all they aim at; as they say, the operation is +practised from a notion of cleanliness. + +The dress of both men and women is the same, and consists of a piece of +cloth or matting (but mostly the former), about two yards wide, and two +and a half long; at least, so long as to go once and a half round the +waist, to which it is confined by a girdle or cord. It is double before, +and hangs down like a petticoat, as low as the middle of the leg. The +upper part of the garment, above the girdle, is plaited into several +folds; so that when unfolded, there is cloth sufficient to draw up and +wrap round the shoulders, which is very seldom done. This, as to form, +is the general dress; but large pieces of cloth, and fine matting, are +worn only by the superior people. The inferior sort are satisfied with +small pieces, and very often wear nothing but a covering made of leaves +of plants, or the _maro_, which is a narrow piece of cloth, or matting, +like a sash. This they pass between the thighs, and wrap round the +waist; but the use of it is chiefly confined to the men. In their great +_haivas_, or entertainments, they have various dresses made for the +purpose; but the form is always the same, and the richest dresses are +covered, more or less, with red feathers. On what particular occasion +their chiefs wear their large red feather-caps, I could not learn. Both +men and women sometimes shade their faces from the sun with little +bonnets, made of various materials. + +As the clothing, so are the ornaments, worn by those of both sexes, the +same. The most common of these are necklaces, made of the fruit of the +_pandamus_, and various sweet-smelling flowers, which go under the +general name of _kahulla_. Others are composed of small shells, the wing +and leg-bones of birds, shark's teeth, and other things; all which hang +loose upon the breast. In the same manner, they often wear a +mother-of-pearl shell, neatly polished, or a ring of the same substance +carved, on the upper part of the arm; rings of tortoise-shell on the +fingers, and a number of these joined together as bracelets on the +wrists. + +The lobes of the ears (though most frequently only one) are perforated, +with two holes, in which they wear cylindrical bits of ivory, about +three inches long, introduced at one hole, and brought out of the other; +or bits of reed of the same size, filled with a yellow pigment. This +seems, to be a fine powder of turmeric, with which the women rub +themselves all over, in the same manner, as our ladies use their dry +rouge upon the cheeks. + +Nothing appears to give them greater pleasure than personal cleanliness; +to produce which, they frequently bathe in the ponds, which seem to +serve no other purpose.[178] Though the water in most of them stinks +intolerably, they prefer them to the sea; and they are so sensible that +salt water hurts their skin, that, when necessity obliges them to bathe +in the sea, they commonly have some cocoa-nut shells, filled with fresh +water, poured over them, to wash it off. They are immoderately fond of +cocoa-nut oil for the same reason; a great quantity of which they not +only pour upon their head and shoulders, but rub the body all over, +briskly, with a smaller quantity. And none but those who have seen this +practice, can easily conceive how the appearance of the skin is improved +by it. This oil, however, is not to be procured by every one; and the +inferior sort of people, doubtless, appear less smooth for want of it. + +[Footnote 178: So at the Caroline Islands. "Ils sont accoutumes a se +baigner trois fois le jour, le matin, a midi, et sur le soir." _Lettres +Edifiantes et Curieuses_, tom. xv. p. 314.--D.] + + +SECTION XI. + +_Employments of the Women, at the Friendly Islands.--Of the +Men.--Agriculture.--Construction of their Houses.--Their working +Tools.--Cordage and fishing Implements.--Musical Instruments.--Weapons. +--Food and Cookery.--Amusements.--Marriage.--Mourning Ceremonies for the +Dead.--Their Divinities.--Notions about the Soul, and a Future +State.--Their Places of Worship.--Government.--Manner of paying +Obeisance to the King.--Account of the Royal Family.--Remarks on their +Language, and a Specimen of it.--Nautical, and other Observations_. + + +Their domestic life is of that middle kind, neither so laborious as to +be disagreeable, nor so vacant as to suffer them to degenerate into +indolence. Nature has done so much for their country, that the first can +hardly occur, and their disposition seems to be a pretty good bar to the +last. By this happy combination of circumstances, their necessary labor +seems to yield in its turn to their recreations, in such a manner, that +the latter are never interrupted by the thoughts of being obliged to +recur to the former, till satiety makes them wish for such a transition. + +The employment of the women is of the easy kind, and, for the most part, +such as may be executed in the house. The manufacturing their cloth is +wholly consigned to their care. Having already described the process, I +shall only add, that they have this cloth of different degrees of +fineness. The coarser sort, of which they make very large pieces, does +not receive the impression of any pattern. Of the finer sort, they have +some that is striped and chequered, and of other patterns differently +coloured. But how these colours are laid on, I cannot say, as I never +saw any of this sort made. The cloth, in general, will resist water for +some time; but that which has the strongest glaze will resist longest. + +The manufacture next in consequence, and also within the department of +the women, is that of their mats, which excel every thing I have seen at +any other place, both as to their texture and their beauty. In +particular, many of them are so superior to those made at Otaheite, that +they are not a bad article to carry thither by way of trade. Of these +mats, they have seven or eight different sorts, for the purposes of +wearing or sleeping upon, and many are merely ornamental. The last are +chiefly made from the tough membraneous part of the stock of the +plantain tree; those that they wear from the _pandanus_, cultivated for +that purpose, and never suffered to shoot into a trunk; and the coarser +sort, which they sleep upon, from a plant called _evarra_. There are +many other articles of less note, that employ the spare time of their +females; as combs, of which, they make vast numbers; and little baskets +made of the same substance as the mats, and others of the fibrous +cocoa-nut husk, either plain, or interwoven with small beads; but all +finished with such neatness and taste in the disposition of the various +parts, that a stranger cannot help admiring their assiduity and +dexterity. + +The province allotted to the men is, as might be expected, far more +laborious and extensive than that of the women. Agriculture, +architecture, boat-building, fishing, and other things that relate to +navigation, are the objects of their care.[179] Cultivated roots and +fruits being their principal support, this requires their constant +attention to agriculture, which they pursue very diligently, and seem to +have brought almost to as great perfection as circumstances will permit. +The large extent of the plantain fields has been taken notice of +already, and the same may be said of the yams; these two together, being +at least as ten to one, with respect to all the other articles. In +planting both these, they dig small holes for their reception, and +afterward root up the surrounding grass, which, in this hot country, is +quickly deprived of its vegetating power, and, soon rotting, becomes a +good manure. The instruments they use for this purpose, which they call +_hooo_, are nothing more than pickers or stakes of different lengths, +according to the depth they have to dig. These are flattened and +sharpened to an edge at one end, and the largest have a short piece +fixed transversely, for pressing it into the ground with the foot. With +these, though they are not more than from two to four inches broad, they +dig and plant ground of many acres in extent. In planting the plantains +and yams, they observe so much exactness, that, whichever way you look, +the rows present themselves regular and complete. + +[Footnote 179: How remarkably does Captain Cook's account of the +employments of the women and men here, agree with Father Cantova's, of +the Caroline Islanders?--"La principale occupation des hommes, est de +construire des barques, de pecher, et de cultiver la terre. L'affaire +des femmes est de faire la cuisine, et de mettre en oeuvre un espece de +plante sauvage, et un arbre,--pour en faire de la toile."--_Lettres +Edifiantes et Curieuses_, tom. xv. p. 313.--D.] + +The cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees are scattered about without any +order, and seem to give them no trouble, after they have attained a +certain height. The same may be said of another large tree, which +produces great numbers of a large, roundish, compressed nut, called +_eeefee_; and of a smaller tree that bears a rounded oval nut, two +inches long, with two or three triangular kernels, tough and insipid, +called _mabba_, most frequently planted near their houses. + +The _kappe_ is commonly regularly planted, and in pretty large spots; +but the _mawhaha_ is interspersed amongst other things, as the _jeejee_ +and _yams_ are; the last of which I have frequently seen in the +insterspaces of the plantain trees at their common distance. Sugar-cane +is commonly in small spots, crowded closely together; and the mulberry, +of which the cloth is made, though without order, has sufficient room +allowed for it, and is kept very clean. The only other plant, that they +cultivate for their manufactures, is the _pandanus_, which is generally +planted in a row, close together, at the sides of the other fields; and +they consider it as a thing so distinct in this state, that they have a +different name for it, which shews, that they are very sensible of the +great changes brought about by cultivation. + +It is remarkable, that these people, who, in many things shew much taste +and ingenuity, should shew little of either in building their houses, +though the defect is rather in the design than in the execution. Those +of the lower people are poor huts, scarcely sufficient to defend them +from the weather, and very small. Those of the better sort are larger +and more comfortable, but not what one might expect. The dimensions of +one of a middling size, are about thirty feet long, twenty broad, and +twelve high. Their house is, properly speaking, a thatched roof or shed, +supported by posts and rafters, disposed in a very judicious manner. The +floor is raised with earth smoothed, and covered with strong thick +matting, and kept very clean. The most of them are closed on the +weather-side, (and some more than two-thirds round), with strong mats, +or with branches of the cocoa-nut tree plaited or woven into each other. +These they fix up edgewise, reaching from the eaves to the ground, and +thus they answer the purpose of a wall. A thick strong mat, about two +and one-half or three feet broad, bent into the form of a semicircle, +and set up on its edge, with the ends touching the side of the house, in +shape resembling the fender of a fire-hearth, incloses a space for the +master and mistress of the family to sleep in. The lady, indeed, spends +most of her time during the day within it. The rest of the family sleep +upon the floor, wherever they please to lie down; the unmarried men and +women apart from each other. Or, if the family be large, there are small +huts adjoining, to which the servants retire in the night; so that +privacy is as much observed here as one could expect. They have mats +made on purpose for sleeping on; and the clothes that they wear in the +day, serve for their covering in the night. Their whole furniture +consists of a bowl or two, in which they make _kava_; a few gourds, +cocoa-nut shells, some small wooden stools which serve them for pillows; +and, perhaps, a large stool for the chief or master of the family to sit +upon. + +The only probable reason I can assign for their neglect of ornamental +architecture in the construction of their houses, is their being fond of +living much in the open air. Indeed, they seem to consider their houses, +within which they seldom eat, as of little use but to sleep in, and to +retire to in bad weather. And the lower sort of people, who spend a +great part of their time in close attendance upon the chiefs, can have +little use for their own houses, but in the last case. + +They make amends for the defects of their houses by their great +attention to, and dexterity, in, naval architecture, if I may be allowed +to give it that name. But I refer to the narrative of my last voyage, +for an account of their canoes, and their manner of building and +navigating them.[180] + +[Footnote 180: The reader, by comparing that account with what Cantova +says of the sea-boats of the Caroline Islands, will find, in this +instance, also, the greatest similarity. See _Lettres Edifiantes et +Curieuses_, p. 286.--D.] + +The only tools which they use to construct these boats, are hatchets, or +rather thick adzes, of a smooth black stone that abounds at Toofooa; +augres, made of sharks' teeth, fixed on small handles; and rasps of a +rough skin of a fish, fastened on flat pieces of wood, thinner on one +side, which also have handles. The labour and time employed in finishing +their canoes, which are the most perfect of their mechanical +productions, will account for their being very careful of them. For they +are built and preserved under sheds, or they cover the decked part of +them with cocoa leaves, when they are hauled on shore, to prevent their +being hurt by the sun. + +The same tools are all they have for other works, if we except different +shells, which they use as knives. But there are few of their productions +that require these, unless it be some of their weapons; the other +articles being chiefly their fishing materials and cordage. + +The cordage is made from the fibres of the cocoa-nut husk, which, though +not more than nine or ten inches long, they plait, about the size of a +quill or less, to any length that they please, and roll it up in balls, +from which the larger ropes are made, by twisting several of these +together. The lines that they fish with, are as strong and even as the +best cord we make, resembling it almost in every respect. Their other +fishing implements are large and small hooks. The last are composed +entirely of pearl-shell, but the first are only covered with it on the +back, and the points of both commonly of tortoise-shell; those of the +small being plain, and the others barbed. With the large ones they catch +bonnetos and albicores, by putting them to a bamboo rod, twelve or +fourteen feet long, with a line of the same length, which rests in a +notch of a piece of wood, fixed in the stern of the canoe for that +purpose, and is dragged on the surface of the sea, as she rows along, +without any other bait than a tuft of flaxy stuff near the point. They +have also great numbers of pretty small seines, some of which are of a +very delicate texture. These they use to catch fish with, in the holes +on the reefs, when the tide ebbs. + +The other manual employments consist chiefly in making musical reeds, +flutes, warlike weapons, and stools, or rather pillows, to sleep on. The +reed have eight, nine, or ten pieces, placed parallel to each other, but +not in any regular progression, having the longest sometimes in the +middle, and several of the same length; so that I have seen none with +more than six notes, and they seem incapable of playing any music on +them, that is, distinguishable by our ears. The flutes are a joint of +bamboo, close at both ends, with a hole near each, and four others; two +of which, and one of the first only, are used in playing. They apply the +thumb of the left hand to close the left nostril, and blow into the hole +at one end with the other. The middle finger of the left hand is applied +to the first hole on the left, and the fore-finger of the right to the +lowest hole on that side. In this manner, though the notes are only +three, they produce a pleasing, yet simple music, which they vary much +more than one would think possible, with so imperfect an instrument. +Their being accustomed to a music which consists of so few notes, is, +perhaps, the reason why they do not seem to relish any of ours, which is +so complex. But they can taste what is more deficient than their own; +for, we observed, that they used to be well pleased with hearing the +chant of our two young New Zealanders, which consisted rather in mere +strength, than in melody of expression. + +The weapons which they make, are clubs of different sorts (in the +ornamenting of which they spend much time), spears, and darts. They have +also bows and arrows; but these seemed to be designed only for +amusement, such as shooting at birds, and not for military purposes. The +stools are about two feet long, but only four or five inches high, and +near four broad, bending downward in the middle, with four strong legs, +and circular feet; the whole made of one piece of black or brown wood, +neatly polished, and sometimes inlaid with bits of ivory. They also +inlay the handles of fly-flaps with ivory, after being neatly carved; +and they shape bones into small figures of men, birds, and other things, +which must be very difficult, as their carving instrument is only a +shark's tooth. + +Yams, plantains, and cocoa-nuts, compose the greatest part of their +vegetable diet. Of their animal food, the chief articles are hogs, +fowls, fish, and all sorts of shellfish; but the lower people eat rats. +The two first vegetable articles, with bread-fruit, are what may be +called the basis of their food at different times of the year, with fish +and shell-fish; for hogs, fowls, and turtle, seem only to be occasional +dainties reserved for their chiefs. The intervals between the seasons of +these vegetable productions, must be sometimes considerable, as they +prepare a sort of artificial bread from plantains, which they put under +ground before ripe, and suffer them to remain till they ferment, when +they are taken out, and made up into small balls; but so sour and +indifferent, that they often said our bread was preferable, though +somewhat musty. + +Their food is generally dressed by baking, in the same manner as at +Otaheite; and they have the art of making, from different kinds of +fruit, several dishes, which most of us esteemed very good. I never saw +them make use of any kind of sauce, nor drink any thing at their meals +but water, or the juice of the cocoa-nut; for the _kava_ is only their +morning draught. I cannot say that they are cleanly, either in their +cookery, or manner of eating. The generality of them will lay their +victuals upon the first leaf they meet with, however dirty it may be; +but when food is served up to the chiefs, it is commonly laid upon green +plantain leaves. When the king made a meal, he was, for the most part, +attended upon by three or four persons. One cut large pieces of the +joint, or of the fish; another divided it into mouthfuls; and others +stood by with cocoa-nuts, and whatever else he might want. I never saw a +large company sit down to what we should call a sociable meal, by eating +from the same dish. The food, be what it will, is always divided into +portions, each to serve a certain number; these portions are again +subdivided; so that one seldom sees above two or three persons eating +together. The women are not excluded from eating with the men; but there +are certain ranks or orders amongst them, that can neither eat nor drink +together. This distinction begins with the king; but where it ends, I +cannot say. + +They seem to have no set time for meals; though it should be observed, +that, during our stay amongst them, their domestic economy was much +disturbed by their constant attention to us. As far as we could remark, +those of the superior rank only drink _kava_ in the forenoon, and the +others eat, perhaps, a bit of yam; but we commonly saw all of them eat +something in the afternoon. It is probable that the practice of making a +meal in the night is pretty common, and their rest being thus +interrupted, they frequently sleep in the day. They go to bed as soon as +it is dark, and rise with the dawn in the morning.[181] + +[Footnote 181: Cantova says of his islanders, "Ils prennent leur repos +des que le soleil est couche, et ils se levent avec l'aurore."--_Lettres +Edifiantes et Curieuses_, tom. xv. p. 314.--D.] + +They are very fond of associating together; so that it is common to find +several houses empty and the owners of them convened in some other one, +or, rather, upon a convenient spot in the neighbourhood, where they +recreate themselves by conversing and other amusements. Their private +diversions are chiefly singing, dancing, and music performed by the +women. When two or three women sing in concert, and snap their fingers, +it is called _hoobai_; but when there is a greater number, they divide +into several parties, each of which sings on a different key, which +makes a very agreeable music, and is called _heeva_ or _haiva_. In the +same manner, they vary the music of their flutes by playing on those of +a different size; but their dancing is much the same as when they +perform publicly. The dancing of the men (if it is to be called +dancing), although it does not consist much in moving the feet, as we +do, has a thousand different motions with the hands, to which we are +entire strangers; and they are performed with an ease and grace which +are not to be described, nor even conceived, but by those who have seen +them. But I need add nothing to what has been already said on this +subject, in the account of the incidents that happened during our stay +at the islands.[182] + +[Footnote 182: If, to the copious descriptions that occur in the +preceding pages, of the particular entertainments exhibited in Hepaee +and Tongataboo, we add the general view of the usual amusements of the +inhabitants of these islands, contained in this paragraph, and compare +it with the quotation from the Jesuit's Letters, in a former note, we +shall be still more forcibly struck with the reasonableness of tracing +such singularly resembling customs to one common source. The argument, +in confirmation of this, drawn from identity of language, has been +already illustrated, by observing the remarkable coincidence of the name +by which the chiefs of the Caroline Islands, and those at Hamao, one of +the friendly ones, are distinguished. But the argument does not rest on +a single instance, though that happens to be a very striking one. +Another of the very few specimens of the dialect of the North Pacific +islanders, preserved by Father Cantova, furnishes an additional proof. +Immediately after the passage above referred to, he proceeds thus: "Ce +divertissement s'appelle, en leur langue, _tanger ifaifil_; qui veut +dire, la plainte des femmes."--_Lettres tres Edifiantes et Curieuses_, +tom. xv. p. 315. Now it is very remarkable, that we learn from Mr +Anderson's collection of words, which will appear in this chapter, that +_la plainte des femmes_, or, in English, _the mournful song of the +women_, which the inhabitants of the Caroline Islands express in their +language _tanger ifaifil_, would, by those of Tongataboo, be expressed +_tangee vefaine_. + +If any one should still doubt, in spite of this evidence, it may be +recommended to his consideration, that long separation and other causes, +have introduced greater variations in the mode of pronouncing these two +words, at places confessedly inhabited by the same race, than subsist in +the specimen just given. It appears, from Mr Anderson's vocabulary, +printed in Captain Cook's second voyage, that what is pronounced +_tangee_ at the Friendly Islands, is _taee_ at Otaheite; and the +_vefaine_ of the former, is the _waheine_ of the latter.--D.] + +Whether their marriages be made lasting by any kind of solemn contract, +we could not determine with precision; but it is certain, that the bulk +of the people satisfied themselves with one wife. The chiefs, however, +have commonly several women;[183] though some of us were of opinion, +that there was only one that was looked upon as the mistress of the +family. + +[Footnote 183: Cantova says of his Caroline islanders, "La pluralite des +femmes est non seulement permise a tous ces insulaires, elle est encore +une marque d'honneur et de distinction. Le _Tamole_ de l'isle d'Huogoleu +en a neuf."--_Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses_, tom. xv. p. 310.--D.] + +As female chastity, at first sight, seemed to be held in no great +estimation, we expected to have found frequent breaches of their +conjugal fidelity; but we did them great injustice. I do not know that a +single instance happened daring our whole stay.[184] Neither are those +of the better sort, that are unmarried, more free of their favours. It +is true, there was no want of those of a different character; and, +perhaps, such are more frequently met with here, in proportion to the +number of people, than in many other countries. But it appeared to me, +that the most, if not all of them, were of the lowest class; and such of +them as permitted familiarities to our people, were prostitutes by +profession. + +[Footnote 184: At the Caroline Islands, "Ils ont horreur de l'adultere, +comme d'une grand peche."--_Ibid_. tom. xv. p. 310.--D.] + +Nothing can be a greater proof of the humanity of these people, than the +concern they shew for the dead.[185] To use a common expression, their +mourning is not in words, but deeds. For, besides the _tooge_ mentioned +before, and burnt circles and scars, they beat the teeth with stones, +strike a shark's tooth into the head, until the blood flows in streams, +and thrust spears into the inner part of the thigh, into their sides +below the arms-pits, and through the cheeks into the mouth. All these +operations convey an idea of such rigorous discipline, as must require +either an uncommon degree of affection, or the grossest superstition, to +exact. I will not say, that the last has no share in it; for sometimes +it is so universal, that many could not have any knowledge of the person +for whom the concern is expressed. Thus we saw the people of Tongataboo +mourning the death of a chief at Vavaoo; and other similar instances +occurred during our stay. It should be observed, however, that the more +painful operations are only practised on account of the death of those +most nearly connected with the mourners.[186] When a person dies, he is +buried, after being wrapped up in mats and cloth, much after our manner. +The chiefs seem to have the _fiatookas_ appropriated to them as their +burial-places; but the common people are interred in no particular spot. +What part of the mourning ceremony follows immediately after, is +uncertain; but that there is something besides the general one, which is +continued for a considerable length of time, we could infer, from being +informed, that the funeral of Mareewagee's wife, as mentioned before, +was to be attended with ceremonies that were to last five days, and in +which all the principal people were to commemorate her. + +[Footnote 185: How the inhabitants of the Caroline Islands express their +grief on such occasions, may be seen, _ibid_. tom. xv. p. 308.--D.] + +[Footnote 186: The practice of wounding the body on the death of +friends, appears to have existed in ancient times, and among different +people. Moses forbids it to the Israelites, in Levit. xix. 28. "Ye shall +not make _any cutting in your flesh_ for the dead, nor print any mark +upon you." So in Deut. xiv. 1.; and Parkhurst, in his Heb. Lexicon, +commenting on the passage in Deuteronomy, says, the word rendered _to +cut_, is of more general signification, including "all assaults on their +own persons from immoderate grief, such as beating the breasts, tearing +the hair, &c. which were commonly practised by the heathen, who have no +hope of a resurrection." He instances in the Iliad xix, line 284, in the +Eneid iv, line 673, the case of the Egyptians mentioned by Herodotus, Q. +85, and several other passages in different writers. It would be easy to +find out similar examples in the accounts of more modern nations. But +the subject is not very inviting to extensive research.--E.] + +Their long and general mourning proves that they consider death as a +very great evil. And this is confirmed by a very odd custom which they +practise to avert it. When I first visited these islands, during my last +voyage, I observed that many of the inhabitants had one or both of their +little fingers cut off, and we could not then receive any satisfactory +account of the reason of this mutilation.[187] But we now learned, that +this operation is performed when they labour under some grievous +disease, and think themselves in danger of dying. They suppose, that the +Deity will accept of the little finger, as a sort of sacrifice +efficacious enough to procure the recovery of their health. They cut it +off with one of their stone hatchets. There was scarcely one in ten of +them whom we did not find thus mutilated in one or both hands, which has +a disagreeable effect, especially as they sometimes cut so close, that +they encroach upon the bone of the hand, which joins to the amputated +finger.[188] + +[Footnote 187: Cantova's account of the practice of the Caroline +Islands, is as follows: "Lorsqu'il meurt quelque personne d'un rang +distmgue, ou qui leur est chere par d'autres endroits, ses obseques se +font avec pompe. Il y eu a qui renferment le corps da defunct dans un +petit edifice de pierre, qu'ils gardent au-dedans de leur maisons. +D'autres les enterrent loin de leurs habitations."--_Lettres Edifiantes +et Curieuses_, tom. xv. p. 308, 309.--D.] + +[Footnote 188: It may be proper to mention here, on the authority of +Captain King, that it is common for the inferior people to cut off a +joint of their little finger, on account of the sickness of the chiefs +to whom they belong.--D.] + +From the rigid severity with which some of these mourning and religious +ceremonies are executed, one would expect to find, that they meant +thereby to secure to themselves felicity beyond the grave; but their +principal object relates to things merely temporal. For they seem to +have little conception of future punishment for faults committed in this +life. They believe, however, that they are justly punished upon earth; +and consequently use every method to render their divinities propitious. +The Supreme Author of most things they call _Kallafootonga_, who, they +say, is a female residing in the sky, and directing the thunder, wind, +rain, and, in general, all the changes of weather. They believe, that +when she is angry with them, the productions of the earth are blasted; +that many things are destroyed by lightning; and that they themselves +are afflicted with sickness and death, as well as their hogs and other +animals. When this anger abates, they suppose that every thing is +restored to its natural order; and it should seem that they have a great +reliance on the efficacy of their endeavours to appease their offended +divinity. They also admit a plurality of deities, though all inferior to +_Kallafootonga_. Amongst them, they mention _Toofooa-boolootoo_, god of +the clouds and fog; _Talleteboo_, and some others, residing in the +heavens. The first in rank and power, who has the government of the sea, +and its productions., is called _Futtafaihe_, or, as it was sometimes +pronounced, _Footafooa_, who, they say, is a male, and has for his wife +_Fykava kajeea_; and here, as in heaven, there are several inferior +potentates, such as _Vahaa fonooa, Tareeava, Mattaba, Evaroo_, and +others. The same religious system, however, does not extend all over the +cluster of the Friendly Isles; for the supreme god of _Hepaee_, for +instance, is called _Alo Alo_; and other isles have two or three of +different names. But their notions of the power and other attributes of +these beings are so very absurd, that they suppose they have no farther +concern with them after death. + +They have, however, very proper sentiments about the immateriality and +the immortality of the soul. They call it life, the living principle, +or, what is more agreeable to their notions of it, an _Otooa_, that is, +a divinity, or invisible being. They say, that immediately upon death, +the souls of their chiefs separate from their bodies, and go to a place +called _Boolootoo_, the chief, or god, of which is _Gooleho_. This +_Gooleho_ seems to be a personification of death; for they used to say +to us, "You, and the men of Feejee (by this junction meaning to pay a +compliment, expressive of their confession of our superiority over +themselves), are also subject to the power and dominion of _Gooleho_." +His country, the general receptacle of the dead, according to their +mythology, was never seen by any person; and yet, it seems, they know +that it lies to the westward of Feejee; and that they who are once +transported thither, live for ever; or, to use their own expression, are +not subject to death again, but feast upon all the favourite products of +their own country, with which this everlasting abode is supposed to +abound. As to the souls of the lower sort of people, they undergo a sort +of transmigration; or, as they say, are eat by a bird called _loata_, +which walks upon their graves for that purpose. + +I think I may venture to assert, that they do not worship any thing that +is the work of their own hands or any visible part of the creation. They +do not make offerings of hogs, dogs, and fruit, as at Otaheite, unless +it be emblematically; for their _morais_ were perfectly free from every +thing of the kind. But that they offer real human sacrifices, is, with +me, beyond a doubt. Their _morais_ or _fiatookas_, (for they are called +by both names, but mostly by the latter), are, as at Otaheite, and many +other parts of the world, burying-grounds, and places of worship; though +some of them seemed to be only appropriated to the first purpose; but +these were small, and, in every other respect, inferior to the others. + +Of the nature of their government, we know no more than the general +outline. A subordination is established among them, that resembles the +feudal system of our progenitors in Europe. But of its subdivisions, of +the constituent parts, and in what manner they are connected, so as to +form a body politic, I confess myself totally ignorant. Some of them +told us, that the power of the king is unlimited, and that the life and +property of the subject is at his disposal. But the few circumstances +that fell under our observation, rather contradicted than confirmed the +idea of a despotic government. Mareewagee, old Toobou, and Feenou, acted +each like petty sovereigns, and frequently thwarted the measures of the +king, of which he often complained. Neither was his court more splendid +than those of the two first, who are the most powerful chiefs in the +islands; and, next to them, Feenou, Mareewagee's son, seemed to stand +highest in authority. But, however independent on the despotic power of +the king the great men may be, we saw instances enough to prove, that +the lower order of people have no property, nor safety for their +persons, but at the will of the chiefs to whom they respectively belong. + +Tongataboo is divided into many districts; of above thirty of which we +learned the names. Each of these has its particular chief, who decides +differences, and distributes justice within his own district. But we +could not form any satisfactory judgment about the extent of their power +in general, or their mode of proportioning punishments to crimes. Most +of these chiefs have possessions in other islands from whence they draw +supplies. At least, we know this is so with respect to the king, who, at +certain established times, receives the product of his distant domains +at Tongataboo, which is not only the principal place of his residence, +but seemingly of all the people of consequence amongst these isles. Its +inhabitants, in common conversation, call it the Land of Chiefs, while +the subordinate isles are distinguished by the appellation of Lands of +Servants. + +These chiefs are, by the people, styled not only lords of the earth, but +of the sun and sky; and the king's family assume the name of Futtafaihe, +from the god so called, who is probably their tutelary patron, and +perhaps their common ancestor. The sovereign's peculiar earthly title is +however, simply _Tooee Tunga_. + +There is a decorum observed in the presence of their principal men, and +particularly of their king, that is truly admirable. Whenever he sits, +down, whether it be in an house, or without, all the attendants seat +themselves at the same time, in a semicircle before him, leaving always +a convenient space between him and them, into which no one attempts to +come, unless he has some particular business. Neither is any one allowed +to pass, or sit behind him, nor even near him, without his order or +permission, so that our having been indulged with this privilege, was a +significant proof of the great respect that was paid us. When any one +wants to speak with the king, he advances and sits down before him, +delivers what he has to say in a few words, and, having received his +answer, retires again to the circle. But if the king speaks to any one, +that person answers from his seat, unless he is to receive some order, +in which case he gets up from his place, and sits down before the chief +with his legs across, which is a posture to which they are so much +accustomed, that any other mode of sitting is disagreeable to them.[189] +To speak to the king standing, would be accounted here as a striking +mark of rudeness, as it would be with us, for one to sit down and put on +his hat, when he addresses himself to his superior, and that superior on +his feet and uncovered. + +[Footnote 189: This is peculiar to the men; the women always sitting +with both legs thrown a little on one side. We owe this remark to +Captain King.--D] + +It does not, indeed, appear that any of the most civilized nations have +ever exceeded this people in the great order observed on all occasions, +in ready compliance with the commands of their chiefs; and in the +harmony that subsists throughout all ranks, and unites them, as if they +were all one man, informed with, and directed by the same principle. +Such a behaviour is remarkably obvious, whenever it is requisite that +their chiefs should harangue any body of them collected together, which +is frequently done. The most profound silence and attention is observed +during the harangue, even to a much greater degree than is practised +amongst us, on the most interesting and serious deliberations of our +most respectable assemblies. And whatever might have been the subject of +the speech delivered, we never saw an instance, when any individual +present shewed signs of his being displeased, or that indicated the +least inclination to dispute the declared will of a person who had a +right to command. Nay, such is the force of these verbal laws, as I may +call them, that I have seen one of their chiefs express his being +astonished, at a person's having acted contrary to such orders, though +it appeared, that the poor man could not possibly have been informed in +time to have observed them.[190] + +[Footnote 190: Cantava gives us the same account of the profound +submission of the Caroline islanders, to the orders of the _Tamole_. +"Ils recoivent ses ordres avec le plus profond respect. Ses paroles sont +autant d'oracles, qu' on revere."--_Lettres Edifiantes & Curieuses_, +tom. xv. p. 312.--D.] + +Though some of the more potent chiefs may vie with the king in point of +actual possessions, they fall very short in rank, and in certain marks +of respect, which the collective body have agreed to pay the monarch. It +is a particular privilege annexed to his sovereignty, not to be +punctured nor circumcised, as all his subjects are. Whenever he walks +out, every one whom he meets must sit down till he has passed. No one is +allowed to be over his head; on the contrary, all must come under his +feet, for there cannot be a greater outward mark of submission, than +that which is paid to the sovereign, and other great people of these +islands, by their inferiors. The method is this; the person who is to +pay obeisance, squats down before the chief, and bows the head to the +sole of his foot, which, when he sits, is so placed, that it can be +easily come at, and having tapped, or touched it with the under and +upper side of the fingers of both hands, he rises up and retires. It +should seem that the king cannot refuse any one who chooses to pay him +this homage, which is called _moe moea_; for the common people would +frequently take it into their heads to do it when he was walking, and he +was always obliged to stop, and hold up one of his feet behind him, till +they had performed the ceremony. This, to a heavy unwieldy man, like +Poulaho, must be attended with some trouble and pain; and I have +sometimes seen him make a run, though very unable, to get out of the +way, or to reach a place where he might conveniently sit down. The +hands, after this application of them to the chief's feet, are, in some +cases, rendered useless for a time; for, until they be washed, they must +not touch any kind of food. This interdiction, in a country where water +is so scarce, would seem to be attended with some inconvenience, but +they are never at a loss for a succedaneum; and a piece of any juicy +plant, which they can easily procure immediately, being rubbed upon +them, this serves for the purpose of purification, as well as washing +them with water. When the hands are in this state, they call it _taboo +rema_. _Taboo_, in general, signifies forbidden, and _rema_ is their +word for hand. + +When the _taboo_ is incurred, by paying obeisance to a great personage, +it is thus easily washed off. But, in some other cases, it must +necessarily continue for a certain time. We have frequently seen women, +who have been _taboo rema_, fed by others. At the expiration of the +time, the interdicted person washes herself in one of their baths, which +are dirty holes, for the most part, of brackish water. She then waits +upon the king, and, after making her obeisance in the usual way, lays +hold of his foot and applies it to her breast, shoulders, and other +parts of her body. He then embraces her on each shoulder, after which +she retires, purified from her uncleanness. I do not know that it is +always necessary to come to the king for this purpose, though Omai +assured me it was. If this be so, it may be one reason why he is, for +the most part, travelling from island to island. I saw this ceremony +performed by him two or three times, and once by Feenou, to one of his +own women; but as Omai was not then with me, I could not ask the +occasion. + +_Taboo_, as I have before observed, is a word of an extensive +signification. Human sacrifices are called _tangata taboo_; and when any +thing is forbidden to be eat, or made use of, they say, that is _taboo_. +They tell us, that if the king should happen to go into a house +belonging to a subject, that house would be _taboo_, and could never be +more inhabited by the owner; so that wherever he travels, there are +particular houses for his reception. Old Toobou at this time presided +over the _taboo_, that is, if Omai comprehended the matter rightly, he +and his deputies inspected all the produce of the island, taking care +that every man should cultivate and plant his quota, and ordering what +should he eat, and what not. By this wise regulation, they effectually +guard against a famine; a sufficient quantity of ground is employed in +raising provisions, and every article thus raised, is secured from +unnecessary waste. + +By another prudent regulation in their government, they have an officer +over the police, or something like it. This department, when we were +amongst them, was administered by Feenou, whose business, we were told, +it was to punish all offenders, whether against the state, or against +individuals. He was also generalissimo, and commanded the warriors when +called out upon service; but by all accounts this is very seldom. The +king frequently took some pains to inform us of Feenou's office; and, +among other things, told us, that if he himself should become a bad man, +Feenou would kill him. What I understood by this expression of being a +bad man, was, that if he did not govern according to law, or custom, +Feenou would be ordered, by the other great men, or the people at large, +to put him to death. There should seem to be no doubt, that a sovereign +thus liable to be controuled, and punished for an abuse of power, cannot +be called a despotic monarch. + +When we consider the number of islands that compose this little state, +and the distance at which some of them lie from the seat of government, +attempts to throw off the yoke, and to acquire independency, it should +seem, might be apprehended. But they tell us that this never happens. +One reason why they are not thus disturbed, by domestic quarrels, may be +this: That all the powerful chiefs, as we have already mentioned, reside +at Tongataboo. They also secure the dependence of the other islands, by +the celerity of their operations; for if, at any time, a troublesome and +popular man should start up in any of them, Feenou, or whoever holds his +office, is immediately dispatched thither to kill him. By this means, +they crush a rebellion in its very infancy. + +The orders, or classes, amongst their chiefs, or those who call +themselves such, seemed to be almost as numerous as amongst us; but +there are few, in comparison, that are lords of large districts of +territory, the rest holding their lands under those principal barons, as +they may be called. I was indeed told, that when a man of property dies, +everything he leaves behind him falls to the king; but that it is usual +to give it to the eldest son of the deceased, with an obligation to make +a provision out of it for the rest of the children. It is not the custom +here, as at Otaheite, for the son, the moment he is born, to take from +the father the homage and title, but he succeeds to them at his decease, +so that their form of government is not only monarchical, but +hereditary. + +The order of succession to the crown has not been of late interrupted; +for we know, from a particular circumstance, that the Futtafaihes +(Poulaho being only an addition to distinguish the king from the rest of +the family) have reigned in a direct line, for at least one hundred and +thirty-five years. Upon enquiring, whether any account had been +preserved amongst them, of the arrival of Tasman's ships, we found that +this history had been handed down to them from their ancestors, with an +accuracy which marks, that oral tradition may sometimes be depended +upon. For they described the two ships as resembling ours, mentioning +the place where they had anchored, their having staid but a few days, +and their moving from that station to Annamooka. And by way of informing +us how long ago this had happened, they told us the name of the +Futtafaihe who was then king, and of those who had succeeded, down to +Poulaho, who is the fifth since that period, the first being an old man +at the time of the arrival of the ships. + +From what has been said of the present king, it would be natural to +suppose, that he had the highest rank of any person in the islands. But, +to our great surprise, we found it is not so; for Latoolibooloo, the +person who was pointed out to me as king, when I first visited +Tongataboo, and three women, are, in some respects, superior to Poulaho +himself. On our enquiring who these extraordinary personages were, whom +they distinguish by the name and title of Tammaha?[191] we were +told, that the late king, Poulaho's father, had a sister of equal rank, +and elder than himself; that she, by a man that came from the island of +Feejee, had a son and two daughters, and that these three persons, as +well as their mother, rank above Futtafaihe the king. + +[Footnote 191: The reader need not be reminded that Tamoloa, which +signifies a chief, in the dialect of Hamao, and Tammaha, become the +same word, by the change of a single letter, the articulation of which +is not very strongly marked.--D.] + +We endeavoured, in vain, to trace the reason of this singular +pre-eminence of the _Tammahas_, for we could learn nothing besides this +account of their pedigree. The mother, and one of the daughters called +Tooeela-kaipa, live at Vavaoo. Latoolibooloo, the son, and the other +daughter, whose name is Moungoula-kaipa, reside at Tongataboo. The +latter is the woman who is mentioned to have dined with me on the 21st +of June. This gave occasion to our discovering her superiority over the +king, who would not eat in her presence, though she made no scruple to +do so before him, and received from him the customary obeisance, by +touching her foot. We never had an opportunity of seeing him pay this +mark of respect to Latoolibooloo, but we have observed him leave off +eating, and have his victuals put aside, when the latter came into the +same house. Latoolibooloo assumed the privilege of taking any thing from +the people, even if it belonged to the king; and yet, in the ceremony +called _Natche_, he assisted only in the same manner as the other +principal men. He was looked upon, by his countrymen, as a madman; and +many of his actions seemed to confirm this judgment. At Eooa, they +shewed me a good deal of land said to belong to him; and I saw there a +son of his, a child, whom they distinguished by the same title as his +father. The son of the greatest prince in Europe could not be more +humoured and caressed than this little _Tammaha_ was. + +The language of the Friendly Islands has the greatest affinity +imaginable to that of New Zealand, of Wateeoo, and Mangeea; and, +consequently, to that of Otaheite and the Society Islands. There are +also many of their words the same with those used by the natives of +Cocos Island, as appears from the vocabulary collected there by Le Maire +and Schouten.[192] The mode of pronunciation differs, indeed, +considerably, in many instances, from that both of New Zealand and +Otaheite, but still a great number of words are either exactly the same, +or so little changed, that their common original may be satisfactorily +traced. The language, as spoken at the Friendly Islands, is sufficiently +copious for all the ideas of the people; and we had many proofs of its +being easily adapted to all musical purposes, both in song and in +recitative, besides being harmonious enough in common conversation. Its +component parts, as far as our scanty acquaintance with it enabled us to +judge, are not numerous; and, in some of its rules, it agrees with other +known languages. As for instance, we could easily discern the several +degrees of comparison, as used in the Latin, but none of the inflections +of nouns and verbs. + +[Footnote 192: See this vocabulary, at the end of vol. ii. of +Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages. And yet, though Tasman's people used +the words of this vocabulary in speaking to the natives of Tongataboo, +(his Amsterdam,) we are told, in the accounts of his voyage, that they +did not understand one another;--a circumstance worth observing, as it +shews how cautious we should be, upon the scanty evidence afforded by +such transient visits as Tasman's, and, indeed, as those of most of the +subsequent navigators of the Pacific Ocean, to found any argument about +the affinity, or want of affinity, of the languages of the different +islands. No one, now, will venture to say, that a Cocos man, and one of +Tongataboo, could not understand each other. Some of the words of Horn +Island, another of Schouten's discoveries, also belong to the dialect of +Tongataboo.--See Dalrymple, as above.--D.] + +We were able to collect several hundreds of the words; and, amongst +these, are terms that express numbers as far as a hundred thousand, +beyond which they never would reckon. It is probable, indeed, that they +are not able to go farther; for, after having got thus far, we observed, +that they commonly used a word which expresses an indefinite number. A +short specimen, selected from the larger vocabulary, is here inserted, +with the corresponding words, of the same signification, as used at +Otaheite, on the opposite column; which, while it will give, as we may +say, ocular demonstration of their being dialects of the same language, +will, at the same time, point out the particular letters, by the +insertion, omission, or alteration of which, the variations of the two +dialects, from each other, have been effected. + +It must be observed, however, that our vocabularies of this sort must +necessarily be liable to great mistakes. The ideas of those, from whom +we were to learn the words, were so different from ours, that it was +difficult to fix them to the object of enquiry. Or, if this could be +obtained, to learn an unknown tongue from an instructor who did not know +a single word of any language that his scholar was conversant with, +could not promise to produce much. But even when these difficulties +were surmounted, there still remained a fruitful source of mistake, I +mean, inaccuracy in catching exactly the true sound of a word, to which +our ears had never been accustomed, from persons whose mode of +pronunciation was, in general, so indistinct, that it seldom happened +that any two of us, in writing down the fame word, from the same mouth, +made use of the same vowels in representing it. Nay, we even, very +commonly, differed about consonants, the sounds of which are least +liable to ambiguity. Besides all this, we found, by experience, that we +had been led into strange corruptions of some of the most common words, +either from the natives endeavouring to imitate us, or from our having +misunderstood them. Thus, _cheeto_ was universally used by us, to +express a thief, though totally different from the real word, in the +language of Tongataboo. The mistake arose from a prior one, into which +we had run, when at New Zealand. For though the word that signifies +thief there, be absolutely the same that belongs to the dialect of the +Friendly Islands, (being _kaeehaa_ at both places,) yet by some blunder, +we had used the word _teete_, first at New Zealand, and afterwards at +Tongataboo, on our arrival there. The natives, endeavouring to imitate +us as nearly as they could, and so fabricating the word _cheeto_; this, +by a complication of mistakes, was adopted by us as their own. Great +care has been taken to make the following table as correct as +possible:-- + + English. _Friendly Islands. Otaheite_. + _The sun_, Elaa, Eraa. + _Fire_, Eafoi, Eahoi. + _Thunder_, Fatoore, Pateere. + _Rain_, Ooha, Eooa. + _The wind_, Matangee, Mataee. + _Warm_, Mafanna, Mahanna. + _The clouds_, Ao, Eao. + _Land_, Fonooa, Fenooa. + _Water_, Avy, Evy. + _Sleep_, Mohe, Moe. + _A man_, Tangata, Taata. + _A woman_, Vefaine, Waheine. + _A young girl_, Taheine, Toonea. + + _A servant_, or _person Tooa, Toutou, _or_ teou. + of mean rank_, + + _The dawn_, or Aho Aou. + _daybreak_, + + English. _Friendly Islands. Otaheite_. + _The hair_, Fooroo, Eroroo. + _The tongue_, Elelo, Erero. + _The ear_, Tareenga, Tareea. + _The beard_, Koomoo, Ooma. + _The sea_, Tahee, Taee. + _A boat_, or _canoe_, Wakka, Evaa. + _Black_, Oole, Ere. + _Red_, Goola, Oora, oora. + _A lance_, or _spear_, Tao, Tao. + _A parent_, Motooa, Madooa. + _What is that_? Kohaeea? Yahaeea? + _To hold fast_, Amou, Mou. + + _To wipe_ or _clean_ Horo, Haroee. + _any thing_, + + _To rise up_, Etoo, Atoo. + _To cry_, or _shed tears_, Tangee, Taee. + _To eat_, or _chew_, Eky, Ey. + _Yes_, Ai, Ai. + _No_, Kaee, Aee. + _You_, Koe, Oe. + _I_, Ou, Wou. + _Ten_, Ongofooroo, Ahooroo. + +Having now concluded my remarks on these islands and people, I shall +take my final leave of them, after giving some account of the +astronomical and nautical observations that were made during our stay. + +And, first, I must take notice, that the difference of longitude, +between Annamooka and Tongataboo, is somewhat less than was marked in +the chart and narrative of my last voyage. This error might easily +arise, as the longitude of each was then found without any connection +with the other. But now the distance between them is determined to a +degree of precision, that excludes all possibility of mistake, which the +following table will illustrate:-- + + The latitude of the observatory at Tongataboo, + by the mean of several observations 21 deg. 8' 19"S. + + The longitude, by the mean of one hundred + and thirty-one sets of lunar observations, + amounting to above a + thousand observed distances, between + the moon, son, and stars 184 deg. 55' 88"E. + + The difference of longitude, made by + the time-keeper, between the above + observatory and that at Anamooka 0 16 0 + + Hence, the longitude of Annamooka is 185 11 18 E. + By the time {Greenwich rate 186 12 27 + keeper it is {New Zealand rate 184 37 0 + Its latitude 20 15 0 + +N.B. The observatory at Tongataboo was near the middle of the N. side of +the island, and that at Annamooka on its W. side. + +The time-keeper was too slow for mean time at Greenwich, on the first of +July at noon, by 12h 34m 23',2; and her daily rate, at that time, was +losing on mean time 1',783 per day. This rate will now be used for +finding the longitude by the time-keeper, and 184 deg. 55' 18", or 12h 19m +41',2, will be taken as the true longitude of Tongataboo, E. from. +Greenwich. + +By the mean of several observations, the S. end of the needle was found +to dip, + + At Leefooga, one of the Hepaee islands 36 deg. 55' + Tongataboo 39 1 1/2 + The variation of the compass was found to be + + At Annamooka, on board 0 deg. 30' 3 1/2"E, + Anchor off Kotoo, between Annamooka + and Hepaee 0 12 29 1/2 + Anchor off Leefooga 10 11 40 + Tongataboo, on board 9 44 5 1/2 + Ditto, on shore 10 12 58 + + +I can assign no reason why the variation is so much less at and near +Annamooka, than at either of the two places. I can only say, that there +is no fault in the observations; and that the variation ought to be more +at Annamooka than the above, as it has been found to be so to the +northward, southward, eastward, and westward of it. But disagreements in +the variation, greater than this, even in the same needle, have been +often observed. And I should not have taken notice of this instance, but +from a belief that the cause, whatever it is, exists in the place, and +not in the needles, for Mr Bayley found the same, or rather more +difference. + +The tides are more considerable at these islands, than at any other of +my discoveries in this ocean, that lie within the tropics. At Annamooka +it is high water, on the full and change days, nearly at six o'clock; +and the tide rises and falls there, upon a perpendicular, about six +feet. In the harbour of Tongataboo, it is high water on the full and +change days, at fifty minutes past six. The tide rises and falls on +those days, four feet nine inches, and three feet six inches at the +Quadratures. In the channels between the islands, which lie in this +harbour, it flows near tide and half-tide, that is, the flood continues +to run up near three hours, after it is high water by the shore, and the +ebb continues to run down, after it is flood by the shore. It is only in +these channels, and in a few other places near the shores, that the +motion of the water or tide is perceivable, so that I can only guess at +the quarter from which the flood comes. In the road of Annamooka, it +sets W.S.W., and the ebb the contrary; but it falls into the harbour of +Tongataboo from the N.W., passes through the two narrow channels, on +each side of Hoolaiva, where it runs with considerable rapidity, and +then spends itself in the _lagoon_. The ebb returns the same way, and +runs with rather greater force. The N.W. tide is met, at the entrance of +the _lagoon_, by one from the E.; but this, as I have before observed, +was found to be very inconsiderable.[193] + +[Footnote 193: Tongataboo has been visited several times by Europeans +since Cook's last voyage, viz. by Perouse, in 1787; by Captain Edwards, +in 1791; by D'Entrecasteaux, in 1793; and by some of the missionaries, +in 1797. From the accounts furnished by some of these visits, several +particulars might have been added to what has now been delivered. But +they are comparatively unimportant, and did not seem to warrant any +specific regard. Besides, if they had been more considerable, it would +have been improper to anticipate what belongs to another part of our +work. On the whole, however, the information given by Captain Cook, and +his associate Mr Anderson, will ever be esteemed a faithful and very +valuable description of an interesting island and people.--E.] + + + + +A +VOCABULARY +OF THE +LANGUAGE OF THE FRIENDLY ISLES, + +May, &c. 1777. + + * * * * * + + _Friendly Isles_. English. + Ve faine, _A woman_. + Maiee, _Bread-fruit_. + Fukkaton, _Barter_. + Woa, _Admiration_. + My, fogge, _Good_. + Attahoa, _A bead; a necklace_. + Koehau, or Kohaeea? _What is that? or what is the + name of it_? + Magoo, _Give me_. + Le laiee, _Good_. + Hou, _Come here_. + Moree, _A shaddock_. + Omee, _Give me_. + Hobba, _A sort of plantain_. + Koajee, _or_ Kaoojee, _Done; finished_. + Koeea, _Yes; it is so_. + Amou, _Got; to holdfast_. + Horo, horo, _A handkerchief, or wiper_. + Ongofooroo, _Ten_. + Gehai, _or_ geefai, _There; and that_. + + _Friendly Isles_. English. + Kato, _A basket_. + Egeeai, _A mat they wear round them_. + Fooroo, _or_ fooloo, _Hair_. + Fooee vy, _The leg_. + Tooa, vy, _Upperpart of the foot_. + Fooloo, fooloo, matta, _The eyebrow_. + Emamae, _Painted plantains_. + Evatta vatta, _The breast_. + Eboore, _Ditto_. + Etooa, _The back_. + Erongootoo, _The lips_. + Elelo, _The tongue_. + Edainga, _The thigh_. + Eraimoo, _The hips_. + Evae, veene, _The arm pit_. + Too, _The finger_. + Vakka, vakka, _The side_. + Hekaite, _The belly_. + Tareenga, _The ear_. + Horo, _To wipe_. + Kouta, _Beating with two sticks_. + Fangoo, fangoo, _A flute_. + Motoo, _To break_. + Koooma, _Burnt circular marks_. + Taffa, _Raised marks burnt_. + Kowy, _The cheeks_. + Koomoo, koomoo, _The beard_. + Peeto, _The navel_, + Eoo, _The nipple_. + Etarre, _To cough_, + Hengatoo, _Cloth_. + Efangoo, _To sneeze_. + Eanoo, _To spit_. + Etoogee, _To beat_, or _strike_. + Etooee, _The elbow_. + Efeelo, _A small rope_, or _thread_. + Haro, _or_ halo, _Go; begone_. + Egeea, _The throat_. + Eky, _To eat_, or _chew_. + Evagoo, _To scratch_. + Ma matta, _Let me look_, or _see_. + Egeea, _The neck_. + + _Friendly Isles_. English. + Enofoa, haioo, _A seat_. + Etoo, _To rise up_. + Mamao, _To yawn_. + Ehapee, _A box_, or _chest_. + Moe, _or_ mohe, _Sleep_. + Tangooroo, _To snore_. + Ekatta, _To laugh_. + Akka, _To kick_, or _stamp_. + Feedjee, _A fillup_. + Ekakava, _Sweat_. + Eeoho, _To bellow_, or _cry_. + Epooo, _A post_, or _staunchion. + Etolle, _A hatchet_. + Maalava, _To breathe_. + Haila, _To pant_. + Oooo, _To bite_. + Taffa, _To cut_. + Moevae, _The heel_. + Eeegoo, _The tail of a dog_. + Mapoo, _To whistle_, + Aipa, _A fishing-hook_. + Ainga, _A sort of paint_. + Evaika, _A rail_. + Kooroo kooroo, _A green dove_. + Ekoopamea, cheele, _A net_. + Efooo, _A gimlet, or shark's tooth used + for that purpose_. + Aiee, _A fan_. + Emaimeea, _or_ meemeea, _A reed, or small organ_. + Eneeoo, _A cocoa-nut_. + Eoono, _Tortoise shell_. + Enoo, _A belt_. + Afooneema, _The palm of the hand_. + Moemoeea, _A ceremony of putting the foot + of one on the head, and turning + the hand several times_, &c. + Pooa, tareenga, _A sort of plantains_. + Kahaoo hoonga, _An arrow_, or _reed_. + Atoe farre, _The roof of a house_. + Etovee, _A club_. + Emamma, _A ring_. + Eao, _A hat_. + + _Friendly Isles_ English. + Tehou, _A hundred_. + Keeroo, _A thousand_. + Laoo varee, _Ten thousand_. + Laoo noa, _A hundred thousand, or the + greatest number they can reckon_. + Poooree, _Night; darkness_. + Maheena, _A month_. + Fukkataane, _To sit cross-legged_. + Kaffa, _A rope, or cord of cocoa-nut + core_. + Heegee, _To lift up_. + Togoo, _To set down_, + Fetooa tagee, _To tie_. + Vevaite, _To untie_, + Tollo, tolla, _Cocoa-nut skin_. + Eooma, _The shoulder_. + Fooo, _A nail_ (of iron). + Atoo, _To give_. + Epallo, _A rat_. + Elafo, _To throw away_. + Haaile, _To go_. + Haaile atoo, _To go away_. + Haaile my, _To come_. + Elooa, _To puke_. + Matangee, _Wind_. + Mamma, _or_ mamma, reeva, _Light_. + Tahee, _The sea_. + Paho paho, _To paddle_. + Hakaoo, _or_ toree, _Wood_; _a tree_. + Ehoreeoo, _To scoop water out of a boat_. + Booloo booloo, _A sail_. + Fanna, _or_ fanna tooeeoroongo _A Mast_ + Toula, _A hook_. + Tamadje, _A child_. + Tangee, _To weep_. + Elango, _A fly_. + Haingoo, toolaiee, _A tropic-bird_. + Epalla _A bird's tail_. + Kapukou, _A wing_. + Hepoona, _To fly_. + + _Friendly Isles_. English. + Togotto _To lie down_, + Feenakka, _A bird cage_. + Eallo, _The rolling of a ship_. + Etooee, _A needle_. + Epeepeege, _A girl that is a maid_. + Efonno, _A turtle_. + Maia, _A thing_. + Mahee maia, _Give me something_. + Koeea, _Yes, it is_. + Geelee, _A file_. + Owo, _Wait a little_. + Temadoo, _Shall I come_? + Kaee, _or_ Eekaee, _No_. + Kafae, _A blue coat_. + Oloonga, _A stool_. + Takkabou, _A coarse mat to sleep upon_. + Kakulla, _A sweet smell, sweet smelled_. + Namooa, _To smell; smell it_. + Koe, _It is; as_ Koe maa, _it is food_; + Koe maiee, _it is fruitful_. + Koatoooo, _A king-fisher_. + Mogo, _A lizard_. + Toutou, _A card_. + Matte laiva, _Dead_. + Moeha, _More_. + Veenaga, _Fine_, _charming_, _wonderful_. + Tougge my, _Bring it here_. + Ai, (_long_,) angrily, _No_. + Tamma, _Boy_, _man_, _friend_, _calling to one_. + Eeekoou, _Here am I_; _answering one who + calls_. + Haloo, _Go_; _to go_. + Hengalo, _At a distance_, _a great way off_. + Eafee, _or_ Eafoi, _Hire_. + Yehaeea, (_inquisitively_,) _What is that_? + Kohaee koa, _or_ kowykoa, _What is your name_? + Kovee, _or_ Koveeeea, _Bad_. + Bongee, bongee, _To-morrow_. + Peepee, _A pair of scissors_. + Chenna, _Friend, I say_; _hark ye_. + Geelee, _or_ geeree, _The skin_. + Etchee, _To peel a cocoa-nut_. + + _Friendly Isles_. English. + Taha pai, _One thing, as a day_, &c. + Totto, _Blood_. + Roatoo, _Shall I go_. + Whakae, _Look, see_. + Whakae my, _Let me see it_. + Arooweevo, _Below; to let down a rope, or + to go down over the ship's side + to trade_. + Aingy, _Large clams_, or _cockles_. + Beegee, _A chief_. + Eatooa, _God_. + A bo, _To-night, at night_. + Any, _Presently, by and by_. + Elangee, _The sky_. + Elaa, _The sun_. + Ao, _Clouds_. + Jeela, _A canoe's yard_. + Laa, _A sail_. + Falle wakaeea, _The hut in a large canoe_. + Faee, _To play_. + Tallafoo, _The fire-place in a large boat_. + Goolee, _A sort of windlass, or belaying + place for the rope of their + sail_. + Tataa, _A scoop for bailing out a boat_. + Taia, _White_. + Oolee, _Black_. + Goola, _Red_. + Ohooafee, _Smoke_. + Geeai, _A close kind of mat_. + Fofooa, _Pimples_. + Maaloonga, _High, mountainous_. + Mai, _Motions with the hands in dancing_. + Touvaa, _A cap, or bonnet, they wear to + shade them from the sun_. + Majeela, _A large bamboo fishing-rod_. + Pai, _A thing_. + Mamahee, _Pain_. + Echee, _or_ eeke, _Small, little_. + Cheeatta, _A looking-glass_. + Tangameeme, _A bladder_. + + _Friendly Isles_, English. + Goobainga, _A fishing-net_. + Elillo, _Below, underneath_. + Faee, _To shave_. + Motooa, _A parent_. + Moumy, _To paddle_, or _row_. + Avy, ava, _or_ govy, _A harbour_, or + _anchoring-place_. + Po, taha, pai, _In one day_. + Ebaika, _A large bat_. + Kakaa, _A parrot_. + Tooge, _Marks on the cheek, + made by beating_. + Nono, _To hide a thing_. + Fonooa, _or_ Kaeenga, _Land_. + Beeoo, _A palm which bean clusters of + very small nuts_. + Haoomoo, _A large blunt sort of plantains_. + Goolo, _A globular earthen pot_, + or _vessel_. + Manga, mangatei, _A large blue star-fish_. + Hainga, _A parroquet_. + Maagonna, _Full, satisfied with eating_. + Maheena, _The moon_. + Teeleeamoo, _A secret_. + Fonooa bou, _A land of plenty_. + Oobai, _A song_. + Foolehaioo, _The green wattle bird_. + Pailoo, _A spoon_. + Kulle, velaive, _A large white spider, with + brown and white legs_. + Fageeta, _A ceremony of kissing, &c. on a + new acquaintance_. + Goomaa, _A rat_. + Agoota, oomoo, _To put a thing in an oven_. + Oomoo, _An oven_. + Eadda, _A path_. + Mattabaa, _A door_. + Togga, _A large stick used as a bar behind + the door_. + Koheeabo, _The paper mulberry-plant_. + Faa, _Palm, called Pandanas_. + Tangata, _or_ tangatta, _A man_. + Taheina, _A child_. + + _Friendly Isles_. English. + Onne, onne, _White sand_. + Pai, _Ripe, old_. + Ea, _A fence made of bamboo_, &c. + Toee, _The wood which they make their + canoes of_. + Mafaee, _Wasp's nests built in the pod of + a plant_. + Kappe, _A large cylindrical edible root_. + Ongo, ongo, _A small palm growing to the + height of eight feet_. + Gooholla, _It is gone_, or _flown_. + Mai, kawaia, _To take away a thing_. + Mai, Evaheeoo, _To let a thing remain_. + Kaeenga, _Land_, or _property the shore_. + Fyatooka, _A burying-place_. + Woee, _Admiration_. + Koeee, _A fan_. + Waggee hou, _Let it alone_. + Bai, _Great_. + Laika, laika, _Good_. + Ooo, _A crayfish_. + Feengafee, _A black and white mat_. + Aingatooeea, _Stained red rushes, which they + wear round the waist_. + An, any, _A little while ago_. + Hengatoo, _Glazed cloth which they wear_. + Falla, _A thick strong mat_. + Mahagee, _A sort of ulcer, that leaves large + laced scars_. + Akkaree, _A stool to lay the head on when + asleep_. + Naffa, _A large cylindrical piece of wood, + hollowed with a slit, which + serves as a drum_. + Toa, _A spear_. + Etanno, _To bury under ground_. + Afai, _When_. + Otoogoo, _Finished_. + Maree, _or_ mareeai, _Well done; an acclamation_. + Fafa, _To carry one on the back_. + Mamao, _A great way; distant_. + Meedje, meedje, _To drink out of a cocoa-nut_. + + _Friendly Isles_. English. + Matta, _The face_. + Ty, or Etae, _Excrement_. + Faitanoo, _A sort of pepper-tree, the juice + of which is very acrid_. + Nafee, nafee, _A fine white sort of mat_. + Abee, _A house to sleep in_. + Touaa, _A square bonnet_. + Fukke, fety, _To give a thing gratis_, or _for + friendship's sake_. + Tooa, or Tooaeea, _A servant_, or _person of inferior + rank_. + Fukkatooa, _A challenging motion, made by + striking the hand on the bend + of the opposite arm_. + Kaeehya, or kaeehaa, _A thief_. + Fooloo, _A quill_. + Moojeekakka, _A basket made of cocoa-nut core, + and white beads_. + Mahanga, _A brother_. + Macele, _An odoriferous shrub, planted + near the Fyatooka_. + Fofolla, _To unfold a piece of cloth_. + Kotjee, _None_. + Taboone, _To close_, or _shut; a partition_ + or _skreen_. + Too, _To draw back a curtain_, or + _skreen_. + Ava, _A window; hole_. + Fonooa, foohoo, _A land of warriors_. + Taboo, _Not to touch a thing_. + Goomoo; goomoo, _A species of lichen, that grows + plentifully on some trees_. + Laiva, _For good and all; certainly_. + Bagooee, _A prickly star-fish_. + Bedjeeloa, _A crab, with black claws_. + Fae, _A sister_. + Makka fatoo, _Coral rock_. + Gailee, gailee, _Dirt_. + Maa, _Clean_. + Ma, tagge tagge, _Let me look at it_. + Konna, _Poison_. + Fekaee, or smalte, fekaee. _Hunger_. + + _Friendly Isles_, English. + Matte, fee aeenoo, _Thirst_. + Aieenoo, _To drink_. + Awhainne, _Near at hand_. + Monoo, _An expression of thanks_. + Mattahoa, _Very good_. + Toooa, _Both, we; both of us_. + Fooa, _repeated_, _A great number_. + Boola, _Small white shells_. + Anoo, anoo, _To swim_. + Anga, _A man_. + Haile, _A knife_. + Haile, fofoo, _A knife that shuts_. + Adoo, _Give it; to give_. + Geehea, _Which_, or _what_. + Tohagge, _Let me look at_, or _see it_. + Namoogoo, _A stink_, or _bad smell_. + Narooo, kakulla, _A sweet smell_. + Boobooa, tahee, _Salt_. + Meeme, _Urine_. + Owo, owo, owo, _No, no, no_. + Fohee, _To peel a plantain_. + Ajeeneu, _A vessel to put drink in_. + Tangee, fe toogee, _Striking the cheeks on the death + of their relations_. + Mamaha, _Coral rock under water_. + Oohee, _A species of diosma_. + Mawhaha, _An excellent root like a potatoe_. + Baa, _A crackling noise; to crack, or + snap_. + Boogo, _The largest sort of tree in the + islands_. + Taifo, _A mullet_. + Amou, _Whole; sound; true; valid_. + Faigeeaika, _Iambos_. + Kakou, _A shoal_, or _reef, on which the + sea breaks_. + + Shainga (_in the language_ _No; there is none_. + _of Feejee_), + + Fangoo, _A small calibash shell_. + Oore, oore, _Black_. + Looloo, _An owl_. + Murroo, _Soft_. + + _Friendly Isles_. English. + Faifaika, _Hard_. + Feengotta, _A sort of shell_. + Wouainee, _I am here_; i.e. _when called + upon_. + Mahaggee, fatoo, _A dropsy_. + Goee enee, _Near at hand_. + Fukka, ma fooa, _An arbour in which they catch + pigeons, &c_. + Fatooree, _Thunder_. + A faa, _A Storm; lightning_. + Toufarre, _A besom_. + Tongo, _A wood, of which bows are made_. + Ooha, _Rain_. + Tooboo, _To grow_. + Tawagge, totto, _The red-tailed tropic bird_. + Kadjee, _There is no more_; or _none_. + Fanna, fanna, _To wash the hands before meals_. + Mooonga, _Mountains; a mountain_. + Keeneeo, _Low land_. + Laoo allee, _A great many; an endless number_. + Ogookaee, _No; there is none_. + Laia, _or_ koelaia, _Speech; words_. + Kaho, _An arrow_. + Aieeboo, _A vessel,_ or _dish_. + Tooee, _A club_. + Feila, _To pull a rope_. + Eevee, aai, _A cheer, in pulling a rope_. + Feilaa too, _A word given by one, on pulling + a rope, and the rest repeat_ + Woa, _as a response_. + Engago, _Fat_, or _lard of a hog_. + Kanno, matte, _The lean part of meat_. + Kofooa, _A kidney_. + Kollofeea, _The name of the volcano on Tofooa_. + Moggocheea, _Cold_. + Hooa, _The going about,_ or _tacking of + a ship_. + Ongonna, _To understand_. + Kaee ongonna, _I do not understand you_. + Mafanna, _Warm_. + + _Friendly Isles_. English. + Anapo, _Last night_. + Fakkahooa, _The southerly wind_; or _a foul + wind_. + Looloo, _To roll, as a ship_. + Matangee, _The wind_. + Matangee anga, _or_} _The east and north wind_, or _a_ + matangee leeoo, } _fair wind_. + Amooee, _or_ tamooree, _From behind_. + Amooa, _or_ tamooa, _From before_. + Ahaa, _or_ koehaa, _For what reason_? + Mohe fai, _Where shall I sleep_? + Koo mafoore, _To be along_, or _yield, as a + ship close hauled_. + Palla, _Rotten_. + Elooa, _A hole_. + Molle, _or_ molle molle, _Smooth_. + Keeai, _A plant they make mats of; the + cultivated Pandanus_. + Tongo laiee, _Mangrove_. + Reemoo, _Sea-weed_. + Fety, _A term of friendship_. + Jeejee, _Esculent dracaena_. + Taboo laia, _Don't speak; hold your tongue_. + Toonoa, _Dressed, cooked_. + Tohke, _A measure_. + Toohagge, _Let me see it_. + Taheine, _A young girl; a daughter_. + Haine, _Here_. + Baiahou, _Swell of the sea_. + Maea, _A rope_. + Otta, _Raw; as raw meat_. + Moho, _Meat well dressed_. + Maoo lillo, _Low land_. + Moanua, _Deep water; sea_. + Kae haia, _Which is it you want_? + Vava tahee, _Red coral_. + Feefy, _A species of mimosa_. + Fatoo, _The belly_. + Mee mee, _To suck bones_. + Meedje meedje, _To suck as a child_. + Ooree, _A rudder_. + Tainga, _A seed of a plant_. + + _Friendly Isles_, English. + Oolel teffe, _Incisions in the foreskin, which + contracting present its covering + the glans_. + Vefoo, _To Hide a thing_. + Laifa, _A silver-fish_. + Heenaheena, _White; yellow_. + Feeoo, _Acrid; bitter_. + Goomo, _To look for a thing that is lost_. + Eeta, _Angry_. + Aneafee, _Yesterday_. + Gefai, _Unknown; strange; as a strange + man_. + Fono, _To eat_. + Kailee tokee, _A Panama-shell_. + Toffe, _A sort of hammer oyster_. + Toogoo, _Let it lie, or remain_. + Koehaa, hono, hengoa, _What is the name of it_? + Loee, _To understand_. + Booga, _To hold fast_. + Loloa, _Long_. + Kotjee, _To cut_. + Fatjee, _To break_. + Fohenna, _A son; a brother_. + Matee, _A fig-tree_. + Lohee, _A lie_. + Mato, _Steep; high_. + Patoo, _A stroke; to strike_. + Hooho, _The breasts_. + Momoggo, _Cold_. + Saiouhai, _Admiration_. + Noo, _Mine; of me_. + Valla, _A piece of cloth worn round the + waist_. + Doooyoo, a matoo, eeoee, _A song in favour of a victor_. + Mulloo, _Serene; settled; smooth_. + Vaitte, _To untie a thing_. + Moheefo, _Come down below_. + Fetagee; malowhee, _To fight_. + Tao, _A spear_. + Eenee, _Now; immediately_. + Mamanna; au manna manna, _Engaged; contracted to_. + Fukka, booakka, _An epithet of abuse; contempt_. + + _Friendly Isles_. English. + Aleolo, _To fan, or cool_. + Tammaha, _Certain great chiefs_. + Tamolao, _Chief_. + Mahae, _A torn hole_. + Goefai, _What is_. + Laoo, _To count_, or _reckon_. + Manakko, _To give_. + Fooo, _New; lately made_. + Modooa, _Old; worn_. + Maa, _A sour plantain, by being put + under ground_. + Kaifoo, _A brownish yellow_. + Eafee, _To play on the flute_. + Mou afai, _When do you go?_ + Afaia, _How many?_ + Cheefa, _A pearl oyster_. + Gooe, goee, _A saw shell_. + Fotoohoa, _A rock oyster_. + Ogoo, _Of me; belonging to me_. + Lelange, _To make_. + Behange, _Let me see it_. + Foo, _To box_. + Heeva, _A song, with many women singing + different keys_. + Ooloo pokko, _The head_. + Koukou, _To bathe_. + Mabba, _A three-kernelled nut_. + Eelo, _To know_. + Fotte, fotta, _To squeeze gently with the hands_. + Fangootooa, _Wrestling_. + Momoho, _Ripe_. + Koffe, _Bamboo which they beat with on + the ground_. + Alla, _I say_. + Waila, _Hot_. + Pango, _Bad_. + Orlongaa, _Thread of which they make their + nets, or the plant_. + Monee, _Truth_. + Anga, _A shark_. + Laffa, _Ringworm_. + Fooa, _Fruit; flower_. + + _Friendly Isles_. English. + Kokka, _A tree they stain their cloth + brown with_, i. e. _the bark_. + Moooee, _Alive; life; soul; God, or divine + spirit_. + Tooo, _A tree, with the berries of which + they stain their cloth_. + Ogoohaika, _Who shall I give this to? Who + shall I help_? + Maha, _Finished; empty_. + Pagge, _A little paddle they exercise + with_. + Faio, _Small-branched coral_. + Cheeagge, _To throw a thing away_. + Faiee tamma, _Pregnancy_. + Lalanga, _To make_. + Vao, _A wild uncultivated country_. + Neeoo goola, _Cabbage-tree_. + Routte, _Hibiscus; rosa sinensis_. + Foa, _A custom of beating the head + with a tooth till it bleeds_. + Cheelee neefo, _A custom of beating the teeth on + the same occasion_. + Hogga tainga, _A custom of thrusting a spear + into their thighs; also a + mourning ceremony_. + Toofatao, _Thrusting a spear into the sides + under the arm-pits on these + occasions_. + Tooengootoo, _Doing the same through the + cheeks into the mouth_. + Kafoo, _The garment they commonly + wear_. + Offa, _A term of friendship_; as, + Taio offa, _My friend, I am glad to see + you_. + Toofa, _To divide, or share out food_. + Maeneene, _To tickle_. + Hailulla, _Sarcosma_. + Hooo, _A wooden instrument with which + they clear away grass from + their fences_. + Aho, _The dawn_, or _day-break_. + + _Friendly Isles_. English. + Gooaa, _Who is it_? + Avo, _To go_; or _take away_. + Valle, _Mad_. + Lelaiee a bee kovee, _Is it good_, or _bad_? + Taboonee, _To shut_, or _close_. + Taae, _To beat_, or _strike_. + Ahae, _Who_, or _where_. + Mamaa, _Light_. + Mamaffa, _Heavy_. + Faike, _A cuttle-fish_. + Vai veegoo, _Wet; moist_. + + + + + +A +VOCABULARY +OF THE +LANGUAGE OF ATOOI, +ONE OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. + +_January_, 1778.[194] + +[Footnote 194: This Vocabulary properly belongs to a subsequent part of +the voyage, but is given here for the greater facility of comparison +with the preceding, and as a fit companion also to that of the Society +Isles, inserted in a former part of the volume.--E.] + + * * * * * + + _Atooi_. English. + Tehaia, _Where_. + Mahaia, _Ditto_. + Aorre, _or_ Aoe, _No_. + He oho, _The hair_. + E poo, _The head_. + Papaiee aoo, _The ear_. + Heraee, _The forehead_. + Matta, _The eye_. + Pappareenga, _The cheek_. + Haieea, _Fish_. + Eeeheu, _The nose_. + Oome oome, _The beard_. + Haire, _To go_. + Erawha, _Tears of joy_. + Aee, _The neck_. + Poheeve, _The arm_. + Ooma ooma, _The breast_. + Heoo, _The nipple_. + Peeto, _The navel_. + + _Atooi_. English, + Hoohaa, _The thigh_. + He,wawy, _The leg_. + Eroui, _Wait a little_. + Areea, _Wait a little_. + Myao, _Finger and toe nails_. + Eeno, _Bad_. + Hootee, hootee, _To pluck up_, or _out_. + Tooanna, _A brother_. + Teina, _A younger brother_. + Otooma heeva, _A man's name_. + Nanna, _Let me see it_. + Noho, _To sit_. + Hoe, _To go_. + Hooarra, _Sweet potatoes_. + E Taeeai, _Calling to one_. + Waheine, _A woman_. + Teeorre, _To throw away a thing_. + He, aieeree, _The skin_. + Ma, ty ty, _To look at_, or _survey a thing_. + Tommomy, _Come here_. + Erooi, _To retch, to puke_. + Too, _Sugar-cane_. + Maa mona, _Sweet_ or _savoury food_. + Tooharre, _To spit_. + Matou, _I, first person singular_. + My, ty, _Good_. + Otaeaio, } _Names of two chiefs_. + Terurotoa,} + Oome, _A great number_. + Poe, _Taro pudding_. + Oohe, _Yams_. + Booa, _A hog_. + Eeneeoo, _Cocoa-nuts_. + Ono, _To understand_. + Eetee, _To understand_, or _know_. + Otae, _A man's name_. + Maonna, _Full, satisfied with eating_. + Owytooehainoa, _What is your name_? + Tanata, _A man_. + Tangata, _Ditto_. + Pahoo, _A drum_. + Ehoora, _A kind of dance_. + + _Atooi_. English. + Maro, _A narrow stripe of cloth they + wear_. + Hoemy; harremy, _To come_. + Eroemy, _Fetch it here_. + Taooa, _We_, first person plural. + Toura, _A rope_. + Ooroo, _Bread-fruit_. + Etee, _Dracaena_. + Appe, _Virginian Arum_. + Matte, _Dead_. + Aoonai, _In a short time; presently_. + Paha, _Perhaps_. + Ai, _Yes_. + Ateera, _Done; at an end_. + Hevaite, _To unfold_. + Noona, _Above_. + Tapaia, _To abide; to keep_, or _restrain + from going_. + Poore, _A prayer_. + Tahouna, _A priest_. + Atee, _To fetch_, or _bring_. + Meeme, _To make water_. + Ehaia, _Where_. + Poota, _A hole_. + Mao, _That way_. + Mareira, _This place_. + Eeo, _There_. + Evaa, _A canoe_. + Touroonoa, _A man's name_. + My ty, _Let me look_. + Aieeboo, _A vessel of gourd shell_. + Ahewaite, _Mullus cretaceus_. + Opoore, _Sparus parvus punctatus_. + Taee, _The sea_. + Evy, _Fresh water_. + Aiva, _A harbour_. + Eerotto, _Within, into_. + Owyte eree, _What is the chief's name_? + Toneoneo, _A chief's name_. + Motoo, _To tear_, or _break_. + Toe, _A stone adze_. + Vaheoo, _Let it lie_, or _remain_. + + _Atooi_. English. + Haieehe, _A barbed dart_. + Hooroo manoo, _Birds' feathers_. + Motoo, _An island_. + Hamoea, _A ceremony of clapping the + hands to the head, and prostrating + themselves to the chief_. + Worero, _Lost; stole_. + Aeenoo, _To drink_. + Tehaia, orooa, _Where are you_? + Ou, _I_, first person singular. + Eunai, _Here; at this place_. + Pororee, _Hunger; hungry_. + Hereema, _A species of Sida_. + Meere, meere, _To look at_, or _behold_. + Moa, _A fowl_. + Manoo, _A bird_. + Dirro, _Below_. + Modooa, tanne, _Father_. + Modooa, waheme, _Mother_. + Naiwe, nawie, _Pleasant; agreeable_. + Hai raa, _The sun_. + Hairanee, _The sky_. + Abobo, _To-morrow_. + Heaho, _A small rope_. + Tereira, _There; that way_. + Pymy, _Throw it here_. + Ewououtte, _Morus Papyrif_. + Moe, _To sleep_. + Nooe, _Large_. + Poowha, _To yawn_. + Ahaia, _When; at what time_. + Wehai, _To uncover and undo a thing_. + Tooto, _A small straw rope_. + Eaha, nai, _What is this_? + Maeea, _Plantains_. + Parra, _Ripe; as, ripe fruit_. + Toe, toe, _Cold_. + Matanee, _The wind_. + Etoo, _To rise up_. + Haireetoo, _To go there_. + Hoatoo, _To give_. + + _Atooi_. English. + Eeapo, _Night_. + Eahoiahoi, _Evening_. + Oora, _Red feathers_. + Teehe, _A present of cloth_. + Herairemy, _A place on which fruit is laid as + an offering to God_. + Henananoo, _A square pile of wicker-work_, + or _religious obelisk_. + Hereeere, _A burying-ground_. + Eteepappa, _The inside of a burying-ground_. + Harre, _A house_. + Harre pahoo, _A drum-house in a burying-ground_. + Heneene, _A wall, the wall of a burying-ground_. + Heho, _A stone set up in a burying-ground, + consecrated to the + Deity_. + Eatooa, _A god_. + Tangaroa, _The name of the god of the place + we were at_. + None, _Morinda citrifolia_. + Hereanee, _Small twig things in a burying-ground_. + Hemanaa, _A house_, or _hut, where they + bury their dead_. + Herooanoo, _Wooden images in a burying-house_. + Tooraipe, _A kind of head-dress_, or _helmet + on an image_. + Eahoi, _Hire_. + Pohootoo noa, _A cream-coloured whet-stone_. + Poota paire, _A district, at the western part of + the isle_. + Eonnotaine, _A short cloak of black and white + feathers_. + Ottahoinoo, _One article_, or _thing_. + Epappa, _A board used to swim upon_. + Oneete, _A kind of cloth_. + Heorro taire, _A small scarlet bird_, or _merops + scarlatina_. + Taa, _An interjection of admiration_. + + _Atooi_. English. + Epoo, _A bracelet of a single shell_. + Eou, _To swim_. + Tearre, _Gardenia_, or _Cape Jasmine_. + Heoudoo, _A refusal; I will not do it_, or + _take that for this_. + + Eeorre, _A rat_. + Ehooo, _A gimblet, or any instrument to + bore with_. + Epaoo, or ooapa, _There is no more; it is done_, or + _finished_. + Matou, _A particular sort of fish-hook_. + Erahoi, dehoi, _Thin; as, thin cloth, board, &c_. + Pattahaee, or he roui,_A sort of musical instrument_ or + _rattle, ornamented with red + feathers_. + Eappanai, _A plume of feathers they wear_. + Etooo, _The Cordia sebestina_. + Whatte, _To break_. + Oeea, _Yes; it is so_. + Heoreeoree, _A song_. + Paraoo, _A wooden bowl_. + Apooava, _A shallow wooden dish they + drink Ava out of_. + Etoohe, toohee, _A particular sort of cloth_. + Ootee, or otee, otee, _To cut_. + Pappaneeheomano, _A wooden instrument beset with + shark's teeth, used to cut up + those they kill_. + Maheine, _A wife_. + Homy, _Give me_. + Moena, or moenga, _A mat to sleep on_. + Eeno, _An adjunct, when they express + any thing good, though by + itself, it signifies bad. Thus + they say_, Erawha eeno, _good + greeting, as the Otaheitans + say_, Ehoa eeno, _or my good + friend_. + Taboo, or tafoo, _Any thing not to be touched, as + being forbid. This is an example + that shews the transmutation + of the_ H, F, _and_ B, + + _Atooi_. English. + _into each other. Thus at Otaheite + yams are_ oohe, _at Tonga_ + oofe, _at New Caledonia_ + oobe; _and here_ taboo _is_ tafoo. + Maooa, _I_, first person singular. + Heno, _Little rods, about five feet long, + with a tuft of hair on the small end_. + Patae, _Salt_. + Aheia, _A round pearl-shell_. + Teanoo, _The cold arising from being in + the water_. + Tammata, _The sense of taste_. + Ootoo, _A louse_. + Ehone, _To salute by applying one nose + to the other._ Ehogge _at New + Zealand, and_ Ehoe _at Otaheite_. + My, _A sore of any kind_. + Oura, _or_ ouraa, _Cured; recovered; alive; well_. + Mango, _A shark_. + Te _and_ he, _The_. + Heneeoohe, _An instrument made of a shark's + tooth fixed on a wooden handle, + to cut with_. + Eea, _An adjunct, as at Otaheite, to + give strength to an expression_. + Paoo roa, _Quite done; finished_. + Ee, _At_. + Taira, _That; the other_. + Ahoo aura, _Red cloth_. + Henaro, _A fly_. + Ehateinoa, _What is the name of that_? + Heweereweere, _An outrigger of a canoe_. + Mawaihe, _The sail of a canoe_. + Eheou, _The mast of a canoe_. + Hetoa, _The yard of a sail._ + Ooamou, _Fast; secure; sound; whole_. + Hono, _To go; to move_. + Matou, _Fear_. + Pooa, _An arrow_. + + _Atooi_. English. + Teeto, _A bow_. + Epaee, _Wooden bowls made from the Etoo_. + Ohe, _Bamboo_. + Henaroo, _The swell of the sea_. + Motoo, _land_. + Ehetoo, _A star_. + Marama, _The moon_. + Ouameeta, _A man's name_. + +_Numerals to Ten, as at Otaheite_. + + +END OF VOLUME FIFTEENTH. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A General History and Collection of +Voyages and Travels, Vol. 15 (of 18), by Robert Kerr + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK KERR'S VOYAGES, VOL. 15 *** + +***** This file should be named 14611.txt or 14611.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/4/6/1/14611/ + +Produced by Robert Connal, Graeme Mackreth and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team. 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