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diff --git a/15411-h/15411-h.htm b/15411-h/15411-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..373379c --- /dev/null +++ b/15411-h/15411-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,9660 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<title>A Voyage to the South Sea</title> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content= +"text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> +<style type="text/css"> +<!-- +body {background: #ffffcc; margin:10%; text-align:justify} +h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {color:green; text-align:center} +blockquote {font-size: .9em} +p.poem {text-align:center} +p.external {font-weight: bold} +--> +</style> +</head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Voyage to the South Sea, by William Bligh + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Voyage to the South Sea + For The Purpose Of Conveying The Bread-Fruit Tree To The West Indies, + Including An Account Of The Mutiny On Board The Ship + + +Author: William Bligh + +Release Date: March 19, 2005 [EBook #15411] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEA *** + + + + +Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat. + + + + + +</pre> + +<p><a name="home"></a></p> + +<p align="center"><a name="bligh-00"></a><img alt="" src= +"images/bligh-00.jpg"></p> + +<h4>A</h4> + +<h2>VOYAGE</h2> + +<h4>TO THE</h4> + +<h2>SOUTH SEA,</h2> + +<h3>UNDERTAKEN BY COMMAND OF</h3> + +<h2>HIS MAJESTY,</h2> + +<h4>FOR THE PURPOSE OF</h4> + +<h3>CONVEYING THE BREAD-FRUIT TREE</h3> + +<h4>TO THE WEST INDIES,</h4> + +<h3>IN HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP THE BOUNTY,</h3> + +<h4>COMMANDED BY</h4> + +<h3>LIEUTENANT WILLIAM BLIGH.</h3> + +<h4>INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE</h4> + +<h3>MUTINY ON BOARD THE SAID SHIP,</h3> + +<h4>AND THE</h4> + +<h3>SUBSEQUENT VOYAGE OF PART OF THE CREW, IN THE SHIP'S +BOAT,</h3> + +<h4>FROM TOFOA, ONE OF THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS,</h4> + +<h4>TO TIMOR, A DUTCH SETTLEMENT IN THE EAST INDIES.</h4> + +<h3>THE WHOLE ILLUSTRATED WITH CHARTS, ETC.</h3> + +<hr align="center" width="20%"> + +<h4>PUBLISHED BY PERMISSION OF THE</h4> + +<h3>LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY.</h3> + +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>LONDON:</h3> + +<h4>PRINTED FOR GEORGE NICOL, BOOKSELLER TO HIS MAJESTY, +PALL-MALL.</h4> + +<h4>1792.</h4> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p align="center"><a name="bligh-01"></a><img alt="" src= +"images/bligh-01.jpg"><br> +<b>Captain Bligh</b></p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<h2>ADVERTISEMENT.</h2> + +<p>At the time I published the Narrative of the Mutiny on Board +the Bounty it was my intention that the preceding part of the +Voyage should be contained in a separate account. This method I +have since been induced to alter. The reason of the Narrative +appearing first was for the purpose of communicating early +information concerning an event which had attracted the public +notice: and, being drawn up in a hasty manner, it required many +corrections. Some circumstances likewise were omitted; and the +notation of time used in the Narrative being according to sea +reckoning, in which the days begin and end at noon, must have +produced a degree of obscurity and confusion to readers +accustomed only to the civil mode. And this would have increased +as the remainder of the voyage, on account of the numerous shore +occurrences at Otaheite and elsewhere, could not, with clearness +and propriety, have been related in any other than the usual +manner of reckoning.</p> + +<p>Besides remedying these inconveniencies I have thought a +fuller account of our passage from Timor to Europe than that +contained in the Narrative would not be unacceptable. These +reasons, with the manifest convenience of comprising the whole +Voyage in one continued narrative, in preference to letting it +appear in disjointed accounts will, it is hoped, be allowed a +sufficient excuse for having varied from the original intention. +Nevertheless for the accommodation of the purchasers of the +Narrative already published those who desire it will be supplied +with the other parts of the Voyage separate; i.e. the part +previous to the mutiny and the additional account after leaving +Timor.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> + +<p><a href="#ch1">CHAPTER 1.</a></p> + +<p>Plan of the Expedition.<br> +Outfit and Occurrences to the time of leaving England.<br> +Description of the Breadfruit.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch2">CHAPTER 2.</a></p> + +<p>Departure from England.<br> +Arrival at Tenerife.<br> +Sail from thence.<br> +Arrival off Cape Horn.<br> +Severity of the Weather.<br> +Obliged to bear away for the Cape of Good Hope.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch3">CHAPTER 3.</a></p> + +<p>Passage towards the Cape of Good Hope and Search after Tristan da Cunha.<br> +Arrival at False Bay. Occurrences there.<br> +Reports concerning the Grosvenor's People.<br> +Departure from the Cape.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch4">CHAPTER 4.</a></p> + +<p>Passage towards Van Diemen's Land. Make the Island of St. Paul.<br> +Arrival in Adventure Bay. Natives seen.<br> +Sail from Van Diemen's Land.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch5">CHAPTER 5.</a></p> + +<p>Rocky Islands discovered.<br> +See the Island Maitea and arrive at Otaheite.<br> +Ship crowded by the Natives.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch6">CHAPTER 6.</a></p> + +<p>Account of an English Ship lately sailed from Otaheite.<br> +Death of Omai.<br> +Captain Cook's Picture sent on board.<br> +Otoo visits the Ship.<br> +His Visit returned. Natives well disposed towards us.<br> +Account of the Cattle left by Captain Cook.<br> +Breadfruit plants promised.<br> +Visit to the Earee Rahie.<br> +Presents made to the Arreoys.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch7">CHAPTER 7.</a></p> + +<p>A theft committed.<br> +Deception of the painted Head.<br> +Conversation with a Priest.<br> +A Wrestling Match.<br> +Reports of the Natives concerning other Islands.<br> +Some Account of Omai.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch8">CHAPTER 8.</a></p> + +<p>Expedition to Tettaba after a Heifer.<br> +Extraordinary domestic Arrangements.<br> +Tinah's Mother visits the Ship.<br> +A Sheep brought from Ulietea.<br> +Heavy Storm.<br> +Death of the Surgeon.<br> +Taowne and Toahroah Harbours examined.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch9">CHAPTER 9.</a></p> + +<p>A Walk into the Country.<br> +The Peeah Roah.<br> +Prevailed on by the Kindness of the Chiefs to defer our Departure.<br> +Breadfruit Plants collected.<br> +Move the Ship to Toahroah Harbour.<br> +Fishing.<br> +Three of the Ship's Company desert.<br> +Indiscretion of our People on Shore.<br> +Instances of Jealousy.<br> +Mourning.<br> +Bull brought to Oparre by a Prophet.<br> +The Deserters recovered.<br> +Tinah proposes to visit England.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch10">CHAPTER 10.</a></p> + +<p>The Ship's Cable cut in the Night.<br> +Coolness with the Chiefs on that Account.<br> +Visit to an old Lady.<br> +Disturbance at a Heiva.<br> +Tinah's Hospitality.<br> +A Thief taken and punished.<br> +Preparations for sailing.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch11">CHAPTER 11.</a></p> + +<p>Arrival of an Arreoy Woman from Tethuroa.<br> +A Present delivered by Tinah for his Majesty.<br> +Other Occurrences to the Time of the Ship's Departure from Otaheite.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch12">CHAPTER 12.</a></p> + +<p>At the Island Huaheine.<br> +A Friend of Omai visits the Ship.<br> +Leave the Society Islands.<br> +A Water-spout.<br> +The Island Whytootackee discovered.<br> +Anchor in Annamooka Road.<br> +Our Parties on Shore robbed by the Natives.<br> +Sail from Annamooka.<br> +The Chiefs detained on board.<br> +Part friendly.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch13">CHAPTER 13.</a></p> + +<p>A Mutiny in the Ship.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch14">CHAPTER 14.</a></p> + +<p>Proceed in the Launch to the Island Tofoa.<br> +Difficulty in obtaining Supplies there.<br> +Treacherous Attack of the Natives.<br> +Escape to Sea and bear away for New Holland.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch15">CHAPTER 15.</a></p> + +<p>Passage towards New Holland.<br> +Islands discovered in our Route.<br> +Our great Distresses.<br> +See the Reefs of New Holland and find a Passage through them.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch16">CHAPTER 16.</a></p> + +<p>Progress to the Northward along the Coast of New Holland.<br> +Land on different Islands in search of Supplies.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch17">CHAPTER 17.</a></p> + +<p>Passage from New Holland to the Island Timor.<br> +Arrive at Coupang.<br> +Reception there.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch18">CHAPTER 18.</a></p> + +<p>At Coupang.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch19">CHAPTER 19.</a></p> + +<p>From Timor to Batavia.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch20">CHAPTER 20.</a></p> + +<p>Occurrences at Batavia and Passage thence to England.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<h2>LIST OF THE PLATES.</h2> + +<p><a href="#bligh-01">Head of Lieutenant Bligh.</a></p> +<p><a href="#bligh-02">Plan and profile of the deck of the Bounty.</a></p> +<p><a href="#bligh-03">Sections of the Breadfruit.</a></p> +<p><a href="#bligh-04">Plan of Toahroah harbour.</a></p> +<p><a href="#bligh-05">Copy of the draught from which the Bounty's launch was built.</a></p> +<p><a href="#bligh-06">Chart of Islands discovered from the launch.</a></p> +<p><a href="#bligh-07">Chart of part of the north-east coast of New Holland.</a></p> +<p><a href="#bligh-08">Chart of the track of the launch from Tofoa to Timor.</a></p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p align="center"><a name="bligh-02"></a><img alt="" src= +"images/bligh-02.jpg"><br> +<b>Plan and Section of Part of the Bounty Armed Transport, showing the manner of Fitting and Stowing the Potts, for receiving the Bread-fruit Plants.</b></p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<h2>A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, ETC.</h2> + +<p><a name="ch1"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 1.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>Plan of the Expedition.<br> +Outfit and Occurrences to the time of leaving England.<br> +Description of the Breadfruit.</b></blockquote> + +<p>1787.</p> + +<p>The King having been graciously pleased to comply with a +request from the merchants and planters interested in his +Majesty's West India possessions that the breadfruit tree might +be introduced into those islands, a vessel proper for the +undertaking was bought and taken into dock at Deptford to be +provided with the necessary fixtures and preparations for +executing the object of the voyage. These were completed +according to a plan of my much honoured friend, Sir Joseph Banks, +which in the event proved the most advantageous that could have +been adopted for the intended purpose.</p> + +<p>August 16.</p> + +<p>The ship was named the Bounty: I was appointed to command her +on the 16th of August 1787. Her burthen was nearly two hundred +and fifteen tons; her extreme length on deck ninety feet ten +inches; extreme breadth twenty-four feet three inches; and height +in the hold under the beams at the main hatchway ten feet three +inches. In the cockpit were the cabins of the surgeon, gunner, +botanist, and clerk, with a steward-room and storerooms. The +between decks was divided in the following manner: the great +cabin was appropriated for the preservation of the plants and +extended as far forward as the after hatchway. It had two large +skylights, and on each side three scuttles for air, and was +fitted with a false floor cut full of holes to contain the +garden-pots in which the plants were to be brought home. The deck +was covered with lead, and at the foremost corners of the cabin +were fixed pipes to carry off the water that drained from the +plants into tubs placed below to save it for future use. I had a +small cabin on one side to sleep in, adjoining to the great +cabin, and a place near the middle of the ship to eat in. The +bulk-head of this apartment was at the after-part of the main +hatchway, and on each side of it were the berths of the mates and +midshipmen; between these berths the arm-chest was placed. The +cabin of the master, in which was always kept the key of the +arms, was opposite to mine. This particular description of the +interior parts of the ship is rendered necessary by the event of +the expedition.</p> + +<p>The ship was masted according to the proportion of the navy; +but on my application the masts were shortened, as I thought them +too much for her, considering the nature of the voyage.</p> + +<p>September 3.</p> + +<p>On the 3rd of September the ship came out of dock; but the +carpenters and joiners remained on board much longer, as they had +a great deal of work to finish.</p> + +<p>The next material alteration made in the fitting out was +lessening the quantity of iron and other ballast. I gave +directions that only nineteen tons of iron should be taken on +board instead of the customary proportion which was forty-five +tons. The stores and provisions I judged would be fully +sufficient to answer the purpose of the remainder; for I am of +opinion that many of the misfortunes which attend ships in heavy +storms of wind are occasioned by too much dead weight in their +bottoms.</p> + +<p>The establishment of men and officers for the ship were as +follows:</p> + +<pre> + +1 Lieutenant to command. +1 Master. +1 Boatswain. +1 Gunner. +1 Carpenter. +1 Surgeon. +2 Master's Mates. +2 Midshipmen. +2 Quartermasters. +1 Quartermaster's Mate. +1 Boatswain's Mate. +1 Gunner's Mate. +1 Carpenter's Mate. +1 Carpenter's Crew. +1 Sailmaker. +1 Armourer. +1 Corporal. +1 Clerk and Steward. +23 Able Seamen. +--- +44. + +</pre> + +<p>Two skilful and careful men were appointed, at Sir Joseph +Banks's recommendation, to have the management of the plants +intended to be brought home: the one, David Nelson, who had been +on similar employment in Captain Cook's last voyage; the other, +William Brown, as an assistant to him. With these two our whole +number amounted to forty-six.</p> + +<p>It was proposed that our route to the Society Islands should +be round Cape Horn; and the greatest dispatch became necessary as +the season was already far advanced: but the shipwrights not +being able to complete their work by the time the ship was ready +in other respects, our sailing was unavoidably retarded.</p> + +<p>October. Thursday 4.</p> + +<p>However by the 4th of October the pilot came on board to take +us down the river.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 9.</p> + +<p>On the 9th we fell down to Long Reach where we received our +gunner's stores and guns, four four-pounders and ten swivels.</p> + +<p>The ship was stored and victualled for eighteen months. In +addition to the customary allowance of provisions we were +supplied with sourkraut, portable soup, essence of malt, dried +malt, and a proportion of barley and wheat in lieu of oatmeal. I +was likewise furnished with a quantity of ironwork and trinkets +to serve in our intercourse with the natives in the South Seas: +and from the board of Longitude I received a timekeeper, made by +Mr. Kendal.</p> + +<p>Monday 15.</p> + +<p>On the 15th I received orders to proceed to Spithead.</p> + +<p>November. Sunday 4.</p> + +<p>But the winds and weather were so unfavourable that we did not +arrive there till the 4th of November. On the 24th I received +from Lord Hood, who commanded at Spithead, my final orders. The +wind, which for several days before had been favourable, was now +turned directly against us.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 28.</p> + +<p>On the 28th the ship's company received two months pay in +advance, and on the following morning we worked out to St. +Helen's, where we were obliged to anchor.</p> + +<p>1787. December. Sunday 23.</p> + +<p>We made different unsuccessful attempts to get down Channel, +but contrary winds and bad weather constantly forced us back to +St. Helen's, or Spithead, until Sunday the 23rd of December when +we sailed with a fair wind.</p> + +<p>During our stay at Spithead, the rate of the timepiece was +several times examined by Mr. Bailey's observations at the +Portsmouth observatory. On the 19th of December, the last time of +its being examined on shore, it was 1 minute 52 seconds, 5 too +fast for meantime, and then losing at the rate of 1 second, 1 per +day; and at this rate I estimate its going when we sailed.</p> + +<p>The object of all the former voyages to the South Seas +undertaken by the command of his present majesty, has been the +advancement of science and the increase of knowledge. This voyage +may be reckoned the first the intention of which has been to +derive benefit from those distant discoveries. For the more fully +comprehending the nature and plan of the expedition, and that the +reader may be possessed of every information necessary for +entering on the following sheets, I shall here lay before him a +copy of the instructions I received from the admiralty, and +likewise a short description of the breadfruit.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="20%"> + +<blockquote><p><i>By the Commissioners for Executing the Office of Lord High +Admiral of Great Britain and Ireland, etc.</i></p> + +<p>Whereas the king, upon a representation from the merchants and +planters interested in his Majesty's West India possessions that +the introduction of the breadfruit tree into the islands of those +seas, to constitute an article of food, would be of very +essential benefit to the inhabitants, hath, in order to promote +the interests of so respectable a body of his subjects +(especially in an instance which promises general advantage) +thought fit that measures should be taken for the procuring some +of those trees, and conveying them to the said West India +islands: And whereas the vessel under your command hath, in +consequence thereof, been stored and victualled for that service, +and fitted with proper conveniences and necessaries for the +preservation of as many of the said trees as, from her size, can +be taken on board her; and you have been directed to receive on +board her the two gardeners named in the margin, David Nelson, +and William Brown, who, from their knowledge of trees and plants, +have been hired for the purpose of selecting such as shall appear +to be of a proper species and size:</p> + +<p>You are, therefore, in pursuance of his majesty's pleasure, +signified to us by Lord Sydney, one of his principal secretaries +of state, hereby required and directed to put to sea in the +vessel you command, the first favourable opportunity of wind and +weather, and proceed with her, as expeditiously as possible, +round Cape Horn, to the Society Islands, situate in the Southern +ocean, in the latitude of about eighteen degrees south, and +longitude of about two hundred and ten degrees east from +Greenwich, where, according to the accounts given by the late +Captain Cook, and persons who accompanied him during his voyages, +the breadfruit tree is to be found in the most luxuriant +state.</p> + +<p>Having arrived at the above-mentioned islands, and taken on +board as many trees and plants as may be thought necessary (the +better to enable you to do which, you have already been furnished +with such articles of merchandise and trinkets as it is supposed +will be wanted to satisfy the natives) you are to proceed from +thence through Endeavour Straits (which separate New Holland from +New Guinea) to Prince's Island in the Straits of Sunda, or, if it +should happen to be more convenient, to pass on the eastern side +of Java to some port on the north side of that island, where any +breadfruit trees which may have been injured, or have died, may +be replaced by mangosteens, duriens, jacks, nancas, lanfas, and +other fine fruit trees of that quarter, as well as the rice plant +which grows upon dry land; all of which species (or such of them +as shall be judged most eligible) you are to purchase on the best +terms you can from the inhabitants of that island with the ducats +with which you have also been furnished for that purpose; taking +care however, if the rice plants above-mentioned cannot be +procured at Java, to touch at Prince's Island for them, where +they are regularly cultivated.</p> + +<p>From Prince's Island, or the Island of Java, you are to +proceed round the Cape of Good Hope to the West Indies (calling +on your way thither at any places which may be thought necessary) +and deposit one half of such of the above-mentioned trees and +plants as may be then alive at his majesty's botanical garden at +St. Vincent, for the benefit of the Windward Islands, and then go +on to Jamaica: and, having delivered the remainder to Mr. East, +or such person or persons as may be authorised by the governor +and council of that island to receive them, refreshed your +people, and received on board such provisions and stores as may +be necessary for the voyage, make the best of your way back to +England; repairing to Spithead, and sending to our secretary an +account of your arrival and proceedings.</p> + +<p>And whereas you will receive herewith a copy of the +instructions which have been given to the above-mentioned +gardeners for their guidance, as well as in procuring the said +trees and plants, and the management of them after they shall be +put on board, as for bringing to England a small sample of each +species, and such others as may be prepared by the superintendent +of the botanical garden at St. Vincent's, and by the said Mr. +East, or others, for his majesty's garden at Kew; you are hereby +required and directed to afford, and to give directions to your +officers and company to afford, the said gardeners every possible +aid and assistance, not only in the collecting of the said trees +and plants at the places before mentioned, but for their +preservation during their conveyance to the places of their +destination.</p> + +<p>Given under our hands the 20th November 1787.</p> + +<p>HOWE,<br> +CHARLES BRETT,<br> +RD. HOPKINS,<br> +J. LEVESON GOWER.</p> + +<p><i>To Lieutenant William Bligh, commanding his majesty's armed +vessel the Bounty at Spithead.</i></p> + +<p>By command of their Lordships,</p> + +<p>P. STEPHENS.</p></blockquote> + +<hr align="center" width="20%"> + +<p>In the foregoing orders it is to be observed that I was +particularly directed to proceed round Cape Horn but, as the +season was so far advanced and we were so long detained by +contrary winds, I made application to the Admiralty for +discretional orders on that point; to which I received the +following answer:</p> + +<blockquote><p><i>By the Commissioners for Executing the Office of Lord High +Admiral of Great Britain and Ireland, Etc. Etc.</i></p> + +<p>The season of the year being now so far advanced as to render +it probable that your arrival with the vessel you command on the +southern coast of America will be too late for your passing round +Cape Horn without much difficulty and hazard, you are in that +case at liberty (notwithstanding former orders) to proceed in her +to Otaheite, round the Cape of Good Hope.</p> + +<p>Given under our hands the 18th December 1787.</p> + +<p>HOWE,<br> +CHARLES BRETT,<br> +BAYHAM.</p> + +<p><i>To Lieutenant William Bligh, commanding His Majesty's armed +vessel Bounty, Spithead.</i></p> + +<p>By command of their Lordships,</p> + +<p>P. Stephens.</p></blockquote> + +<p>The Breadfruit is so well known and described that to attempt +a new account of it would be unnecessary and useless. However as +it may contribute to the convenience of the reader I have given +the following extracts respecting it with the plate annexed.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="20%"> + +<blockquote><p><i>Extract from the Account of Dampier's Voyage Round the World +Performed in 1688.</i></p> + +<p>The breadfruit (as we call it) grows on a large tree, as big +and high as our largest apple-trees: It hath a spreading head, +full of branches and dark leaves. The fruit grows on the boughs +like apples; it is as big as a penny-loaf when wheat is at five +shillings the bushel; it is of a round shape, and hath a thick +tough rind. When the fruit is ripe it is yellow and soft, and the +taste is sweet and pleasant. The natives of Guam use it for +bread. They gather it, when full-grown, while it is green and +hard; then they bake it in an oven, which scorches the rind and +makes it black; but they scrape off the outside black crust, and +there remains a tender thin crust; and the inside is soft, +tender, and white like the crumb of a penny-loaf. There is +NEITHER SEED NOR STONE in the inside, but all is of a pure +substance, like bread. It must be eaten new; for, if it is kept +above twenty-four hours, it grows harsh and choaky; but it is +very pleasant before it is too stale. This fruit lasts in season +EIGHT MONTHS in the year, during which the natives eat NO OTHER +SORT OF FOOD OF BREAD KIND. I did never see of this fruit +anywhere but here. The natives told us that there is plenty of +this fruit growing on the rest of the Ladrone islands; and I DID +NEVER HEAR OF IT ANYWHERE ELSE. Volume 1 page 296.</p></blockquote> + +<hr align="center" width="20%"> + +<blockquote><p><i>Extract from the Account of Lord Anson's Voyage, Published by +Mr. Walter.</i></p> + +<p>There was at Tinian a kind of fruit, peculiar to these +(Ladrone) islands, called by the Indians rhymay, but by us the +breadfruit; for it was constantly eaten by us, during our stay +upon the island, * instead of bread; and so UNIVERSALLY PREFERRED +that no ship's bread was expended in that whole interval. It grew +upon a tree which is somewhat lofty, and which towards the top +divides into large and spreading branches. The leaves of this +tree are of a remarkable deep green, are notched about the edges, +and are generally from a foot to eighteen inches in length. The +fruit itself is found indifferently on all parts of the branches; +it is in shape rather elliptical than round; it is covered with a +tough rind and is usually seven or eight inches long; each of +them grows singly and not in clusters. This fruit is fittest to +be used when it is full-grown but still green; in which state, +after it is properly prepared by being roasted in the embers, its +taste has some distant resemblance to that of an artichoke's +bottom, and its texture is not very different, for it is soft and +spongy.</blockquote> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. About two months, namely from the latter end of +August to the latter end of October, 1742.)</blockquote> + +<hr align="center" width="20%"> + +<blockquote><p><i>Extracts from the Account of the First Voyage of Captain Cook. +Hawkesworth, Vol. 2.</i></p> + +<p>IN THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.</p> + +<p>The breadfruit grows on a tree that is about the size of a +middling oak; its leaves are frequently a foot and a half long, +of an oblong shape, deeply sinuated like those of the fig-tree, +which they resemble in consistence and colour, and in the exuding +of a white milky juice upon being broken. The fruit is about the +size and shape of a child's head, and the surface is reticulated +not much unlike a truffle: it is covered with a thin skin, and +has a core about as big as the handle of a small knife. The +eatable part lies between the skin and the core; it is as white +as snow, and somewhat of the consistence of new bread: it must be +roasted before it is eaten, being first divided into three or +four parts. Its taste is insipid, with a slight sweetness +somewhat resembling that of the crumb of wheaten bread mixed with +a Jerusalem artichoke.</p> + +<p>Pages 80, 81. See also the plate there and at page 232.</p> + +<p>Of the many vegetables that have been mentioned already as +serving them for food, the principal is the breadfruit, to +procure which costs them no trouble or labour but climbing a +tree. The tree which produces it does not indeed shoot up +spontaneously, but if a man plants ten of them in his lifetime, +which he may do in about an hour, he will as completely fulfil +his duty to his own and future generations as the native of our +less temperate climate can do by ploughing in the cold winter, +and reaping in the summer's heat, as often as these seasons +return; even if, after he has procured bread for his present +household, he should convert a surplus into money, and lay it up +for his children.</p> + +<p>It is true indeed that the breadfruit is not always in season; +but coconuts, bananas, plantains, and a great variety of other +fruits supply the deficiency. Page 197.</p></blockquote> + +<hr align="center" width="20%"> + +<blockquote><p><i>Extract from the Account of Captain Cook'S Last Voyage.</i></p> + +<p>IN THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.</p> + +<p>I (Captain Cook) have inquired very carefully into their +manner of cultivating the breadfruit tree at Otaheite; but was +always answered that they never planted it. This indeed must be +evident to everyone who will examine the places where the young +trees come up. It will be always observed that they spring from +the roots of the old ones which run along near the surface of the +ground. So that the breadfruit trees may be reckoned those that +would naturally cover the plains, even supposing that the island +was not inhabited, in the same manner that the white-barked +trees, found at Van Diemen's Land, constitute the forests there. +And from this we may observe that the inhabitant of Otaheite, +instead of being obliged to plant his bread, will RATHER be under +the necessity of preventing its progress; which I suppose is +sometimes done to give room for trees of another sort, to afford +him some variety in his food. Volume 2 page 145.</p> + +<p>IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.</p> + +<p>The breadfruit trees are planted, and flourish with great +luxuriance, on rising grounds. Where the hills rise almost +perpendicularly in a great variety of peaked forms, their steep +sides and the deep chasms between them are covered with trees, +amongst which those of the breadfruit were observed particularly +to abound. Volume 3 pages 105 and 114, containing Captain King's +Narrative.</p> + +<p>The climate of the Sandwich Islands differs very little from +that of the West India Islands, which lie IN THE SAME LATITUDE. +Upon the whole perhaps it may be rather more temperate. Captain +King ib page 116.</p> + +<p>The breadfruit trees thrive in these islands, not in such +abundance, but produce double the quantity of fruit they do on +the rich plains of Otaheite. The trees are nearly of the same +height, but the branches begin to strike out from the trunk much +lower, and with greater luxuriance. Captain King ib page 120.</p></blockquote> + +<hr align="center" width="20%"> + +<p align="center"><a name="bligh-03"></a><img alt="" src= +"images/bligh-03.jpg"><br> +<b>Sections of the Bread Fruit</b></p> + +<p><a name="ch2"></a></p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<h2>CHAPTER 2.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>Departure from England. Arrival at Tenerife.<br> +Sail from thence.<br> +Arrival off Cape Horn.<br> +Severity of the Weather.<br> +Obliged to bear away for the Cape of Good Hope.</b></blockquote> + +<p>1787. December. Sunday 23.</p> + +<p>On Sunday morning the 23rd of December 1787 we sailed from +Spithead and, passing through the Needles, directed our course +down channel with a fresh gale of wind at east. In the afternoon +one of the seamen, in furling the main-top-gallant-sail, fell off +the yard and was so fortunate as to save himself by catching hold +of the main-top-mast-stay in his fall. At night the wind +increased to a strong gale with a heavy sea.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 25.</p> + +<p>It moderated however on the 25th and allowed us to keep our +Christmas with cheerfulness; but the following day it blew a +severe storm of wind from the eastward, which continued till the +29th, in the course of which we suffered greatly. One sea broke +away the spare yards and spars out of the starboard main chains. +Another heavy sea broke into the ship and stove all the boats. +Several casks of beer that had been lashed upon deck were broke +loose and washed overboard, and it was not without great +difficulty and risk that we were able to secure the boats from +being washed away entirely.</p> + +<p>Saturday 29.</p> + +<p>On the 29th we were in latitude 39 degrees 35 minutes north +and longitude 14 degrees 26 minutes west when the gale abated and +the weather became fair. Besides other mischief done to us by the +storm, a large quantity of our bread was damaged and rendered +useless, for the sea had stove in our stern and filled the cabin +with water. From this time to our arrival at Tenerife we had +moderate weather and winds mostly from the northward.</p> + +<p>1788. January.</p> + +<p>January 4.</p> + +<p>This forenoon we spoke a French ship bound to the +Mauritius.</p> + +<p>Saturday 5. Tenerife.</p> + +<p>The next day at nine in the forenoon we saw the island of +Tenerife bearing west-south-west half west about twelve leagues +distant. It was covered with a thick haze except the +north-westernmost part which is a remarkable headland, resembling +a horse's head, the ears very distinct. To the eastward of this +head* lie two round rocks, the northern boundary of Tenerife. I +had a good observation at noon by which I make the latitude of +the two rocks 28 degrees 44 minutes north and their longitude by +our timekeeper 16 degrees 5 minutes west. To the southward of +these and near the shore is a high needle rock: about four +leagues farther to the southward the coast inclines towards the +west to the road of Santa Cruz, where we anchored at half-past +nine on Sunday morning in twenty-five fathoms water, and moored +along shore in the same depth, with the cupola tower of the +church of St. Francis bearing west half north one mile, the east +part of the road east by north, the castle on the south point +south-west, and the west part of the Grand Canary +south-south-east. A Spanish packet bound to Corunna, an American +brig, and several other vessels, were lying here.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. South 82 degrees east by the compass.)</blockquote> + +<p>As soon as the ship was anchored I sent an officer (Mr. +Christian) to wait on the governor and to acquaint him I had put +in to obtain refreshments and to repair the damages we had +sustained in bad weather. To this I had a very polite answer from +the governor, * that I should be supplied with whatever the +island afforded. I had also directed the officer to acquaint him +that I would salute, provided an equal number of guns were to be +returned but, as I received an extraordinary answer to this part +of my message, purporting that his excellency did not return the +same number but to persons equal in rank to himself, this +ceremony was omitted.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Marquis de Brancheforte.)</blockquote> + +<p>During this interval I was visited by the port-master (Captain +Adams) and shortly afterwards several officers came on board from +his excellency to compliment me on my arrival. As soon as the +ship was moored I went on shore and paid my respects to him.</p> + +<p>Monday 7.</p> + +<p>On Monday morning I began to forward the ship's business with +the utmost dispatch, and gave the necessary directions to Messrs. +Collogan and sons, the contractors, for the supplies I wanted. I +also got leave of the governor for Mr. Nelson to range the hills +and examine the country in search of plants and natural +curiosities.</p> + +<p>As there was a great surf on the shore I bargained for +everything I wanted to be brought off by the shore boats, and +agreed to give five shillings per ton for water. Very good wine +was bought at ten pounds per pipe, the contract price; but the +superior quality was fifteen pounds; and some of this was not +much inferior to the best London Madeira. I found this was an +unfavourable season for other refreshments: Indian corn, +potatoes, pumpkins, and onions, were all very scarce and double +the price of what they are in summer. Beef also was difficult to +be procured and exceedingly poor; the price nearly sixpence +farthing per pound. The corn was three current dollars per +fanega, which is full five shillings per bushel; and biscuit at +twenty-five shillings for the hundred pounds. Poultry was so +scarce that a good fowl cost three shillings. This is therefore +not a place for ships to expect refreshments at a reasonable +price at this time of the year, wine excepted; but from March to +November supplies are plentiful, particularly fruit, of which at +this time we could procure none except a few dried figs and some +bad oranges.</p> + +<p>NAUTICAL REMARKS.</p> + +<p>During our stay here the weather was fair with north-east +winds and calms and small drizzling rain in the night. The +thermometer from 66 to 69 degrees at noon in the shade. I could +make no lunar observations for the longitude, but by the help of +the timekeeper I have computed the situation of the town of Santa +Cruz to be 28 degrees 28 minutes north latitude and 16 degrees 18 +minutes west longitude. I observed the variation by two compasses +to be 20 degrees 1 minute west: this much exceeded what I could +have imagined; for in 1776 I observed it only 14 degrees 40 +minutes west; a difference of above five degrees in eleven years: +and this makes me reflect on the uncertainty of obtaining the +exact deviation of the magnetic pole, and of course its annual +variation which never can be accurately ascertained unless the +observations are made always in one spot and with the same +compass.</p> + +<p>Tenerife, though considerably without the tropic, is so nearly +within the limits of the tradewind that navigators generally +steer to it from the eastward. The road of Santa Cruz lies on the +east side of the island, at the end of a range of craggy hills, +barren and very lofty, along with you sail west by south by +compass into the road, with a sea unfathomable until near the +shore. The anchoring ground may be accounted from fifty fathoms +to twenty, or even fifteen. The bank is very steep and gives but +little time to sound; for which reason it should be done +effectually with a heavy lead, or a ship will be too near in +before a stranger is aware of it: he will likewise too soon +expect to find bottom, owing to the great deception of the +adjacent high land. To obviate these difficulties it is necessary +to observe that while a town which lies some distance to the +southward of Santa Cruz is open with the castle on the south part +of the road, though you may appear near to the shore, there is no +anchorage; but after it is shut entirely in you get on the bank. +The church bearing west or west by south and the south point of +the road south-west half south to south-west by west is a good +situation for anchoring: the depth about twenty-five fathoms. The +distance from the shore will be three quarters of a mile; and the +southernmost land that can be seen then will be a half or quarter +point of the compass farther out than the south point of the +road.</p> + +<p>The bottom is black soft mud, with some patches of rocks; for +which reason vessels that lie here any length of time buoy their +cables. This precaution, besides being useful in that particular, +they think makes them ride more easy when there is much sea +setting into the road, which, with the wind any way to the +southward of east or at south-west, must be very considerable; it +is therefore usual to moor with four anchors, though more than +two are scarce ever of use. Mooring is however advisable if a +ship is only to remain twenty-four hours, and the tighter the +better, that the cables may keep clear of the ground.</p> + +<p>The landing on the beach is generally impracticable with our +own boats, at least without great risk; but there is a very fine +pier on which people may land without difficulty if there is not +much swell in the road. To this pier the water is conveyed by +pipes for the use of shipping, and for which all merchant-ships +pay.</p> + +<p>There is a degree of wretchedness and want among the lower +class of people which is not anywhere so common as among the +Spanish and Portuguese settlements. To alleviate these evils the +present governor of Tenerife has instituted a most charitable +society which he takes the trouble to superintend; and by +considerable contributions a large airy dwelling that contains +one hundred and twenty poor girls and as many men and boys has +been built and endowed with a sufficiency of land round it, not +only for all present purposes but for enlarging the building for +more objects of charity as their funds increase. I had the honour +to be shown by his excellency this asylum (Hospicio they call it) +where there appeared in every countenance the utmost cheerfulness +and content. The decency and neatness of the dress of the young +females, with the order in which they were arranged at their +spinning-wheels and looms in an extensive airy apartment, was +admirable. A governess inspected and regulated all their works, +which were the manufacturing of ribbons of all colours, coarse +linens, and tapes; all which were managed and brought to +perfection by themselves from the silk and flax in their first +state; even the dying of the colours is performed by them. These +girls are received for five years, at the end of which they are +at liberty to marry, and have for their portions their wheel and +loom, with a sum of money proportioned to the state of the fund, +which is assisted by the produce of their labour, and at this +time was estimated at two thousand dollars per annum.</p> + +<p>The men and boys are not less attended to: they are employed +in coarser work, blanketing and all kinds of common woollens: if +they become infirm they spend the remainder of their days here +comfortably and under a watchful inspector who attends them in +the same manner as the governess does the girls. They are all +visited every day by the governor, and a clergyman attends them +every evening. By this humane institution a number of people are +rendered useful and industrious in a country where the poor, from +the indulgence of the climate, are too apt to prefer a life of +inactivity, though attended with wretchedness, to obtaining the +comforts of life by industry and labour.</p> + +<p>The number of inhabitants in the island I was informed were +estimated at between eighty and one hundred thousand. Their +annual export of wine is twenty thousand pipes and of brandy half +that quantity. Vessels are frequently here from St. Eustatia, and +from thence a great quantity of Tenerife wine is carried to the +different parts of the West Indies, under the name of +Madeira.</p> + +<p>Tenerife is considered of more value than all the other +Canaries: the inhabitants however, in scarce seasons, receive +supplies from the Grand Canary; but their vineyards here are said +to be greatly superior. Their produce of corn, though exceedingly +good, is not sufficient for their consumption; and owing to this +the Americans have an advantageous trade here for their flour and +grain, and take wine in return.</p> + +<p>The town of Santa Cruz is about half a mile in extent each +way, built in a regular manner, and the houses in general large +and airy, but the streets are very ill paved. I am told that they +are subject to few diseases; but if any epidemic distemper breaks +out it is attended with the most fatal consequences, particularly +the smallpox, the bad effects of which they now endeavour to +counteract by inoculation. For this reason they are very +circumspect in admitting ships to have communication with the +shore without bills of health.</p> + +<p>A sloop from London, called the Chance, William Meridith, +master, bound to Barbados, out nineteen days from the Downs, came +into the road the day before we sailed. She had suffered much by +the bad weather but, having brought no bill of health, the +governor would not allow any person to come on shore unless I +could vouch for them that no epidemic disease raged in England at +the time they sailed, which I was able to do, it being nearly at +the same time that I left the land; and by that means they had +the governor's permission to receive the supplies they wanted +without being obliged to perform quarantine.</p> + +<p>Thursday 10.</p> + +<p>Having finished our business at Tenerife on Thursday the 10th +we sailed with the wind at south-east, our ship's company all in +good health and spirits.</p> + +<p>I now divided the people into three watches, and gave the +charge of the third watch to Mr. Fletcher Christian, one of the +mates. I have always considered this as a desirable regulation +when circumstances will admit of it on many accounts; and am +persuaded that unbroken rest not only contributes much towards +the health of a ship's company but enables them more readily to +exert themselves in cases of sudden emergency.</p> + +<p>As it was my wish to proceed to Otaheite without stopping I +ordered everybody to be at two-thirds allowance of bread: I also +directed the water for drinking to be filtered though dripstones +that I had bought at Tenerife for that purpose.</p> + +<p>In the evening we passed the south end of Tenerife which is a +round lump of land that, from the lowness of the contiguous land, +has at a distance the appearance of a separate island. By our run +from the bay of Santa Cruz I make the latitude of the south end +of Tenerife to be 28 degrees 6 minutes north.</p> + +<p>We ran all night towards the south-south-west having the wind +at south-east. The next morning we could see nothing of the land. +I now made the ship's company acquainted with the intent of the +voyage and, having been permitted to hold out this encouragement +to them, I gave assurances of the certainty of promotion to +everyone whose endeavours should merit it.</p> + +<p>The winds for some days after leaving Tenerife were mostly +from the southward. Fishing-lines and tackle were distributed +amongst the people and some dolphins were caught.</p> + +<p>Thursday 17.</p> + +<p>On the 17th the wind came round to the north-east and +continued steady in that quarter till the 25th on which day at +noon we were in 3 degrees 54 minutes north. As the cloudiness of +the sky gave us reason to expect much rain we prepared the +awnings with hoses for the convenience of saving water, in which +we were not disappointed. From this time to our meeting with the +south-east tradewind we had much wet weather, the air close and +sultry with calms, and light variable winds generally from the +southward.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 29.</p> + +<p>On the 29th there was so heavy a fall of rain that we caught +seven hundred gallons of water.</p> + +<p>Thursday 31.</p> + +<p>On the 31st, latitude at noon 2 degrees 5 minutes north, found +a current setting to the north-east at the rate of fourteen miles +in the twenty-four hours. The thermometer was at 82 degrees in +the shade, and 81 1/2 degrees at the surface of the sea, so that +the air and the water were within half a degree of the same +temperature. At eight o'clock in the evening we observed a +violent rippling in the sea about half a mile to the north-west +of us which had very much the appearance of breakers. This I +imagine to have been occasioned by a large school (or multitude) +of fish as it was exactly in the track the ship had passed, so +that if any real shoal had been there we must have seen it at the +close of the evening when a careful lookout was always kept. +However if it had appeared ahead of us instead of astern I should +certainly have tacked to avoid it. To such appearances I +attribute the accounts of many shoals within the tropics which +cannot be found anywhere but in maps. Our latitude at this time +was 2 degrees 8 minutes north and longitude 19 degrees 43 minutes +west. The next day we had more of these appearances from the +number of schools of fish by which the ship was surrounded.</p> + +<p>February. Saturday 2.</p> + +<p>This morning we saw a sail to the north-north-west but at too +great a distance to distinguish what she was.</p> + +<p>Monday 4.</p> + +<p>Had very heavy rain during which we nearly filled all our +empty water casks. So much wet weather, with the closeness of the +air, covered everything with mildew. The ship was aired below +with fires and frequently sprinkled with vinegar; and every +little interval of dry weather was taken advantage of to open all +the hatchways, and clean the ship, and to have all the people's +wet things washed and dried.</p> + +<p>With this weather and light unsteady winds we advanced but 2 +1/2 degrees in twelve days; at the end of which time we were +relieved by the south-east tradewind which we fell in with on the +6th at noon in latitude 1 degree 21 minutes north and longitude +20 degrees 42 minutes west.</p> + +<p>Thursday 7.</p> + +<p>The next afternoon we crossed the equinoctial line in +longitude 21 degrees 50 minutes west. The weather became fine and +the south-east tradewind was fresh and steady, with which we kept +a point free from the wind and got to the southward at a good +rate.</p> + +<p>The weather continuing dry we put some of our bread in casks, +properly prepared for its reception, to preserve it from vermin: +this experiment we afterwards found answered exceedingly +well.</p> + +<p>Saturday 16.</p> + +<p>On the 16th at daylight we saw a sail to the southward. The +next day we came up with her and found her to be the British +Queen, Simon Paul, master, from London, bound to the Cape of Good +Hope on the whale-fishery. She sailed from Falmouth the 5th of +December, eighteen days before I left Spithead. By this ship I +wrote to England. At sunset she was almost out of sight +astern.</p> + +<p>Monday 18.</p> + +<p>In the course of this day's run the variation changed from +west to east. According to our observations the true and magnetic +meridians coincided in latitude 20 degrees 0 minutes south and +longitude 31 degrees 15 minutes west. At noon we were in latitude +20 degrees 44 minutes south and longitude 31 degrees 23 minutes +west. In our advances towards the south the wind had gradually +veered round to the east and was at this time at east-north-east. +The weather after crossing the Line had been fine and clear, but +the air so sultry as to occasion great faintness, the quicksilver +in the thermometer in the daytime standing at between 81 and 83 +degrees, and one time at 85 degrees. In our passage through the +northern tropic the air was temperate, the sun having then high +south declination and the weather being generally fine till we +lost the north-east tradewind; but such a thick haze surrounded +the horizon that no object could be seen except at a very small +distance. The haze commonly cleared away at sunset and gathered +again at sunrise. Between the north-east and south-east +tradewinds the calms and rains, if of long continuance, are very +liable to produce sickness unless great attention is paid to +keeping the ship clean and wholesome by giving all the air +possible, drying between decks with fires, and drying and airing +the people's clothes and bedding. Besides these precautions we +frequently wetted with vinegar, and every evening the pumps were +used as ventilators. With these endeavours to secure health we +passed the low latitudes without a single complaint.</p> + +<p>The currents we met with were by no means regular, nor have I +ever found them so in the middle of the ocean. However from the +channel to the southward as far as Madeira there is generally a +current setting to the south-south-east.</p> + +<p>Thursday 21.</p> + +<p>On the evening of the 21st a ship was seen in the north-east +but at too great a distance to distinguish of what country.</p> + +<p>Friday 22.</p> + +<p>The next day the wind came round to the north and north-west +so that we could no longer consider ourselves in the tradewind. +Our latitude at noon was 25 degrees 55 minutes south, longitude +36 degrees 29 minutes west. Variation of the compass three +degrees east.</p> + +<p>Saturday 23.</p> + +<p>Towards night the wind died away and we had some heavy showers +of rain of which we profited by saving a ton of good water. The +next day we caught a shark and five dolphins.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 26.</p> + +<p>We bent new sails and made other necessary preparations for +encountering the weather that was to be expected in a high +latitude. Our latitude at noon was 29 degrees 38 minutes south, +longitude 41 degrees 44 minutes west. Variation 7 degrees 13 +minutes east. In the afternoon, the wind being westerly and +blowing strong in squalls, some butterflies and other insects +like what we call horseflies were blown on board of us. No birds +were seen except shearwaters. Our distance from the coast of +Brazil at this time was above 100 leagues.</p> + +<p>March. Sunday 2.</p> + +<p>In the forenoon, after seeing that every person was clean, +divine service was performed according to my usual custom on this +day. I gave to Mr. Fletcher Christian, whom I had before directed +to take charge of the third watch, a written order to act as +lieutenant.</p> + +<p>Saturday 8.</p> + +<p>We were at noon in latitude 36 degrees 50 minutes south and +longitude 52 degrees 53 minutes west. The last four days we +several times tried for soundings without finding bottom, though +considerably to the westward of Captain Wallis' track, who had +soundings at fifty-four fathoms depth in latitude 35 degrees 40 +minutes south and longitude 49 degrees 54 minutes west. This day +we tried with two hundred and forty fathoms of line but did not +find bottom; at the same time, observing a rippling in the water, +we tried the current by mooring a keg with one hundred fathoms of +line, by which it appeared to run to the north-north-west at the +rate of a mile and a half per hour. By the noon observation +however we were eighteen miles to the southward of our reckoning. +In the afternoon we saw a turtle floating and, not having much +wind, hoisted a boat out and sent after it; but it was found to +be in a putrid state with a number of crabs feeding upon it.</p> + +<p>The change of temperature began now to be sensibly felt, there +being a variation in the thermometer since yesterday of eight +degrees. That the people might not suffer by their own negligence +I gave orders for their light tropical clothing to be put by, and +made them dress in a manner more suited to a cold climate. I had +provided for this before I left England by giving directions for +such clothes to be purchased as were necessary.</p> + +<p>Monday 10.</p> + +<p>In the forenoon we struck soundings at eighty-three fathoms +depth; our latitude 40 degrees 8 minutes south and longitude 55 +degrees 40 minutes west. This I conclude to have been near the +edge of the bank for, the wind being at south-south-west, we +stood towards the south-east; and after running fourteen miles in +that direction we could find no bottom with one hundred and sixty +fathoms of line. In the night we stood towards the +west-south-west with a southerly wind and got again into +soundings. The next day we saw a great number of whales of an +immense size that had two spout-holes on the back of the head. +Upon a complaint made to me by the master I found it necessary to +punish Matthew Quintal, one of the seamen, with two dozen lashes +for insolence and mutinous behaviour. Before this I had not had +occasion to punish any person on board.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 12.</p> + +<p>On the 12th we caught a porpoise by striking it with the +grains. Everyone eat heartily of it; and it was so well liked +that no part was wasted.</p> + +<p>Friday 14.</p> + +<p>On the 14th in the afternoon we saw a land-bird like a lark, +and passed part of a dead whale that had been left by some +whalers after they had taken the blubber off. Saw likewise two +strange sail. The next day at noon our latitude was 43 degrees 6 +minutes south and longitude 58 degrees 42 minutes west. Had +soundings at seventy-five fathoms; the bottom a fine greenish +sand. Saw two hawks.</p> + +<p>Sunday 16.</p> + +<p>On the 16th another ship was seen to the west-north-west +standing to the northward. Latitude at noon 43 degrees 34 minutes +south. We continued running to the southward keeping in +soundings.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 19.</p> + +<p>On the 19th at noon by my account we were within twenty +leagues of Port Desire; but the wind blowing fresh from the +north-west with thick foggy weather I did not attempt to make the +land. We passed a good deal of rock-weed and saw many whales, and +albatrosses and other seabirds.</p> + +<p>Thursday 20.</p> + +<p>On the 20th at noon our latitude was 50 degrees 24 minutes +south and longitude 65 degrees 50 minutes west. In the afternoon +the wind, which had for some time past been northerly, suddenly +shifted to the west-south-west and blew hard.</p> + +<p>Sunday 23.</p> + +<p>We steered to the south-south-east and on the 23rd at two +o'clock in the morning we discovered the coast of Tierra del +Fuego bearing south-east. At nine in the forenoon we were off +Cape St. Diego, the eastern part of Tierra del Fuego. Observed +the variation here to be 21 degrees 23 east. The wind being +unfavourable I thought it more advisable to go round to the +eastward of Staten Land than to attempt passing through Straits +le Maire. The two opposite coasts of the Straits exhibited very +different appearances. The land of Tierra del Fuego hereabouts, +though the interior parts are mountainous, yet near the coast is +of a moderate height and, at the distance we were from it, had +not an unpromising appearance. The coast of Staten Land near the +Straits is mountainous and craggy, and remarkable for its high +peaked hills. Straits le Maire is a fair opening which cannot +well be mistaken; but if any doubt could remain, the different +appearances of the opposite shores would sufficiently make the +Straits known.</p> + +<p>I did not sail within less than six leagues of the coast that +we might have the wind more regular and avoid being exposed to +the heavy squalls that came off from the land. At noon Cape St. +Anthony bore south and the westernmost of New Year's Isles +south-east one-quarter south, five or six leagues. Latitude +observed 54 degrees 28 minutes south, longitude 64 degrees 4 +minutes west.</p> + +<p>The sight of New Year's Harbour almost tempted me to put in; +but the lateness of the season and the people being in good +health determined me to lay aside all thoughts of refreshment +until we should reach Otaheite. At two o'clock in the afternoon +the easternmost of New Year's Isles, where Captain Cook observed +the latitude to be 55 degrees 40 minutes south, bore from us +south four leagues. We saw the entrance isles of New Year's +harbour at the back of which the land is very craggy and +mountainous. This must be a very convenient port to touch at as +the access to it is safe and easy. The harbour lies +south-south-east by compass from the north-east part of the +easternmost of the New Year's Islands.</p> + +<p>About two leagues to the westward of Cape St. John I observed +the separation of the mountains that Captain Cook has taken +notice of, which has the appearance of Staten Land being there +divided into two islands.</p> + +<p>At sunset Cape St. John bore south-south-east five or six +leagues. The land hereabouts is of less height and not so rugged +as near New Year's Harbour. The night coming on I could get no +good view of the coast near the Cape; and at daylight next +morning we were at too great a distance.</p> + +<p>Monday 24.</p> + +<p>We had stood to the southward all night with the wind at +west-south-west and south-west. At eight in the morning Cape St. +John bore north-west ten leagues distant. Soon after we lost +sight of the land.</p> + +<p>From the result of my lunar observations, assisted by the +timekeeper, I make the longitude of the west side of Straits le +Maire 64 degrees 48 minutes west; the easternmost of the New +Year's isles 63 degrees 52 minutes west; and the longitude of +Cape St. John 63 degrees 19 minutes west.</p> + +<p>In our run from the latitude of 12 degrees south to 48 degrees +south the ship was set 2 degrees 30 minutes to the eastward by +currents; and from the latitude of 48 degrees south to Staten +Land the currents set us to the westward 2 degrees 43 minutes; +which I imagine to have been occasioned by an indraught into the +Straits of Magellan.</p> + +<p>From the time we lost sight of the land to the end of the +month we were struggling with bad weather and contrary winds.</p> + +<p>Monday 31.</p> + +<p>But on the morning of the 31st the wind came to the +north-north-east and made us entertain great hopes that we should +be able to accomplish our passage round the Cape without much +difficulty. At noon we were in latitude 60 degrees 1 minute south +and in 71 degrees 45 minutes west longitude, which is 8 degrees +26 minutes west of the meridian of Cape St. John. This flattering +appearance was not of long continuance: in the night the wind +became variable and next day settled again in the west and +north-west with very bad weather.</p> + +<p>April. Wednesday 2.</p> + +<p>On the 2nd in the morning the wind, which had blown fresh all +night from the north-west, came round to the south-west and +increased to a heavy gale. At six in the morning the storm +exceeded what I had ever met with before; and the sea, from the +frequent shifting of the wind, running in contrary directions, +broke exceeding high. Our ship however lay to very well under a +main and fore-stay sail. The gale continued with severe squalls +of hail and sleet the remainder of this and all the next day.</p> + +<p>Friday 4.</p> + +<p>On the 4th the wind was less violent but far from moderate. +With so much bad weather I found it necessary to keep a constant +fire night and day; and one of the watch always attended to dry +the people's wet clothes: and this I have no doubt contributed as +much to their health as to their comfort.</p> + +<p>Our companions in this in hospitable region were albatrosses +and two beautiful kinds of birds, the small blue petrel and +pintada. A great many of these were frequently about the wake of +the ship, which induced the people to float a line with hooks +baited to endeavour to catch them and their attempts were +successful. The method they used was to fasten the bait a foot or +two before the hook and, by giving the line a sudden jerk when +the bird was at the bait, it was hooked in the feet or body.</p> + +<p>Sunday 6.</p> + +<p>On the 6th the weather was moderate and continued so till the +9th with the wind veering between the north-west and south-west; +of which we were able to take advantage.</p> + +<p>Monday 7.</p> + +<p>On the 7th observed the variation 27 degrees 9 minutes east; +our latitude 60 degrees 24 minutes south and longitude 75 degrees +54 minutes west.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 9.</p> + +<p>On the 9th at noon we were in latitude 59 degrees 31 minutes +south and our longitude 76 degrees 58 minutes west, which is +farther to the west than we had yet been. The weather was now +unfavourable again, blowing strong from the westward with a high +sea.</p> + +<p>On the 10th we saw some fish which appeared spotted and about +the size of bonetos: these were the only fish we had seen in this +high latitude.</p> + +<p>Saturday 12.</p> + +<p>The stormy weather continued with a great sea. The ship now +began to complain and required to be pumped every hour; which was +no more than we had reason to expect from such a continuance of +gales of wind and high seas. The decks also became so leaky that +it was obliged to allot the great cabin, of which I made little +use except in fine weather, to those people who had wet berths to +hang their hammocks in, and by this means the between decks was +less crowded.</p> + +<p>Every morning all the hammocks were taken down from where they +hung, and when the weather was too bad to keep them upon deck +they were put in the cabin; so that the between decks were +cleaned daily and aired with fires if the hatchways could not be +opened. With all this bad weather we had the additional +mortification to find at the end of every day that we were losing +ground; for notwithstanding our utmost exertions and keeping on +the most advantageous tacks (which if the weather had been at all +moderate would have sufficiently answered our purpose) yet the +greater part of the time we were doing little better than +drifting before the wind.</p> + +<p>Sunday 13.</p> + +<p>Birds as usual were about the ship and some of them caught; +and for the first time since we left Staten Land we saw some +whales. This morning, owing to the violent motion of the ship, +the cook fell and broke one of his ribs, and another man, by a +fall, dislocated his shoulder. The gunner who had the charge of a +watch was laid up with the rheumatism: and this was the first +sicklist that appeared on board the ship. The time of full moon +which was approaching made me entertain hopes that after that +period we should experience some change of wind or weather in our +favour; but the event did not at all answer our expectations. The +latitude at noon this day was 58 degrees 9 minutes south and +longitude 76 degrees 1 minute west.</p> + +<p>As we caught a good many birds but which were all lean and +tasted fishy we tried an experiment upon them which succeeded +admirably. By keeping them cooped up and cramming them with +ground corn they improved wonderfully in a short time; so that +the pintada birds became as fine as ducks, and the albatrosses +were as fat, and not inferior in taste to, fine geese. Some of +the latter birds were caught that measured seven feet between the +extremities of the wings when spread. This unexpected supply came +very opportunely; for none of our livestock remained except hogs, +the sheep and poultry not being hardy enough to stand the +severity of the weather.</p> + +<p>Sunday 20.</p> + +<p>This morning the wind died away and we had a calm for a few +hours which gave us hopes that the next would be a more +favourable wind. A hog was killed for the ship's company which +gave them an excellent meal. Towards noon, to our great +disappointment, the wind sprang up again from the westward and in +the afternoon blew strong with snow and hailstorms.</p> + +<p>Monday 21.</p> + +<p>This was the second day after the full moon but, as I have +remarked before, it had no influence on the weather. At noon our +latitude was 58 degrees 31 minutes south and longitude 70 degrees +7 minutes west, which is near seven degrees to the eastward of +our situation on the morning of the 9th instant, when we had +advanced the farthest in our power to the westward, being then in +76 degrees 58 minutes west, three degrees to the west of Cape +Deseada, the west part of the Straits of Magellan; and at this +time we were 3 degrees 52 minutes to the east of it and hourly +losing ground.</p> + +<p>It was with much concern I saw how hopeless and even +unjustifiable it was to persist any longer in attempting a +passage this way to the Society Islands. We had been thirty days +in this tempestuous ocean. At one time we had advanced so far to +the westward as to have a fair prospect of making our passage +round; but from that period hard gales of westerly wind had +continued without intermission, a few hours excepted, which, to +borrow an expression in Lord Anson's voyage, were "like the +elements drawing breath to return upon us with redoubled +violence." The season was now too far advanced for us to expect +more favourable winds or weather, and we had sufficiently +experienced the impossibility of beating round against the wind, +or of advancing at all without the help of a fair wind for which +there was little reason to hope. Another consideration which had +great weight with me was that, if I persisted in my attempt this +way and should after all fail to get round, it would occasion +such a loss of time that our arrival at Otaheite soon enough to +return in the proper season by the East Indies would be rendered +precarious. On the other hand the prevalence of the westerly +winds in high southern latitudes left me no reason to doubt of +making a quick passage to the Cape of Good Hope and thence to the +eastward round New Holland.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 22.</p> + +<p>Having maturely considered all circumstances I determined to +bear away for the Cape of Good Hope; and at five o'clock on the +evening of the 22nd, the wind then blowing strong at west, I +ordered the helm to be put a weather, to the great joy of every +person on board. Our sicklist at this time had increased to +eight, mostly with rheumatic complaints: in other respects the +people were in good health, though exceedingly jaded.</p> + +<p>The passage round Cape Horn into the South Seas during the +summer months has seldom been attended with difficulty and is to +be preferred in the moderate seasons to the more distant route to +the eastward round the Cape of Good Hope and New Holland. If we +had been one month earlier, or perhaps less, I doubt not but we +should have effected our passage.</p> + +<p>The soundings that are met with off the coast of America, from +the latitude of 36 degrees south to the southward, are very +convenient to enable ships to judge of their distance from the +land, as thick fogs are very frequent near that coast. If the +winds are favourable, to go through Straits le Maire must +considerably shorten the passage round Cape Horn, as all the +distance saved is so much gained to the westward. I am informed +that several harbours have been lately discovered by the South +Sea whalers on the north side of Staten Island that afford safe +anchorage with supplies of wood and water.</p> + +<p>While we were off Cape Horn I did not observe that our +situation was at all affected by currents.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a name="ch3"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 3.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>Passage towards the Cape of Good Hope and Search after Tristan da Cunha.<br> +Arrival at False Bay.<br> +Occurrences there.<br> +Reports concerning the Grosvenor's People.<br> +Departure from the Cape.</b></blockquote> + +<p>1788. April. Friday 25.</p> + +<p>The westerly winds and stormy weather continuing gave me no +reason to repent of my determination. On the 25th at noon we were +in latitude 54 degrees 16 minutes south and longitude 57 degrees +4 minutes west. The nearest of the Falkland Islands by my +reckoning then bore north 13 degrees west; distance 23 leagues. +Our stock of water being sufficient to serve us to the Cape of +Good Hope I did not think it worth while to stop at these islands +as the refreshment we might obtain there would scarce repay us +for the expense of time: we therefore continued our course +towards the north-east and east-north-east.</p> + +<p>May. Friday 9.</p> + +<p>On the 9th of May at eight o'clock in the evening we were near +the situation of Tristan da Cunha, our latitude being 37 degrees +7 minutes south and longitude 15 degrees 26 minutes west. All the +afternoon the weather had been clear enough for land of a +moderate height to be seen at least seven leagues; I therefore +concluded that we had not yet passed the meridian of the island; +for the most western position given to it from any authority is +15 degrees 0 minutes west.</p> + +<p>As I wished to make this island we kept our wind on different +tacks during the night, that we might be nearly in the same place +at daylight in the morning as on the preceding evening: in the +morning no land being in sight we continued to steer to the +eastward.</p> + +<p>Saturday 10.</p> + +<p>We ran on all day having clear weather but without seeing +anything to indicate our being near land. At noon our latitude +observed was 37 degrees 27 minutes south which, being more to the +southward than we had reason to expect, I altered the course to +the northward and steered north-east all the afternoon. At six +o'clock in the evening we were in latitude 37 degrees 0 minutes +south and longitude 12 degrees 42 minutes west, having a clear +horizon but not the least sign of being in the neighbourhood of +land. With the night came thick rainy weather and we were now to +the eastward of the situation ascribed to Tristan da Cunha; I +therefore determined to give over the search and to resume our +course towards the Cape of Good Hope.</p> + +<p>The island of Tristan da Cunha, by Robertson's Elements, is +laid down in 37 degrees 12 minutes south latitude and 13 degrees +23 minutes west longitude. In Captain Cook's general map, +prefixed to his last voyage, it is placed in the same latitude +but in 15 degrees west longitude. From our track and the +clearness of the weather I am convinced, if the latitude ascribed +to it as above is correct, that it is not to be found between the +meridians of 16 degrees 30 minutes west and 12 degrees 30 minutes +west. On the 13th I had a number of lunar observations for the +longitude, the mean of which agreed exactly with the +timekeeper.*</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. In Mr. Dalrymple's Collection of Plans which I had +not with me the northernmost of the Islands of Tristan d'Acunha +is placed in latitude 37 degrees 22 minutes south and longitude +13 degrees 17 minutes west. I think it probable we missed them by +being too much to the northward.</blockquote> + +<p>In this passage the weather was generally so cloudy that I had +few opportunities to make observations of any kind except for the +noon latitudes. I could not determine when we crossed the line of +no variation. The two nearest observations to it were: the first +in 39 degrees 51 minutes south latitude and 26 degrees 11 minutes +west longitude, where the variation of the compass was found to +be 3 degrees 17 minutes east; and the other in latitude 35 +degrees 30 minutes south and longitude 5 degrees 21 minutes west, +where I observed the variation 11 degrees 35 minutes west; +between these we had no intermediate observation for the +variation.</p> + +<p>Thursday 22.</p> + +<p>At two in the afternoon we saw the Table Mountain of the Cape +of Good Hope. As it is reckoned unsafe riding in Table Bay at +this time of year I steered for False Bay. The next evening we +anchored in the outer part.</p> + +<p>Saturday 24.</p> + +<p>And on the forenoon of the 24th got the ship secured in +Simon's Bay, which is in the inner part of False Bay. When +moored, Noah's ark bore south 35 degrees east three-quarters of a +mile, and the hospital south 72 west. We found lying here one +outward bound Dutch Indiaman, five other Dutch ships, and a +French ship.</p> + +<p>After saluting the fort, which was returned by an equal number +of guns, I went on shore and dispatches were sent away to Cape +Town to acquaint the governor of our arrival. A Dutch ship at +this time lying in Table Bay bound for Europe, I sent letters by +her to the Admiralty. It is very unusual for ships to be in Table +Bay so late in the year, on account of the strong north-west +winds. April is the time limited.</p> + +<p>I gave the necessary directions for getting our wants +supplied. The ship required to be caulked in every part for she +was become so leaky that we had been obliged to pump every hour +in our passage from Cape Horn. This we immediately set about, as +well as repairing our sails and rigging. The severe weather we +had met with and the leakiness of the ship made it necessary to +examine into the state of all the stores and provisions. Of the +latter a good deal was found damaged, particularly the bread. The +timekeeper I took on shore to ascertain its rate, and other +instruments to make the necessary astronomical observations. +Fresh meat, with soft bread and plenty of vegetables, were issued +daily to the ship's company the whole time we remained here. A +few days after our arrival I went over to Cape Town and waited on +his excellency M. Vander Graaf, the governor, who obligingly +arranged matters so much to our advantage that we scarcely felt +the inconvenience of being at a distance from the Cape Town, +whence we received all our supplies.</p> + +<p>The Cape Town is considerably increased within the last eight +years. Its respectability with regard to strength has kept pace +with its other enlargements and rendered it very secure against +any attempt which is not made with considerable force. Great +attention is paid to military order and discipline; and monthly +signals are established to communicate with their shipping as +they arrive near the coast that they may not run unawares into +the hands of an enemy. I found everything much dearer than when I +was here in 1780. Sheep cost four Spanish dollars each and were +so small that it answered better to purchase the mutton for the +ship's daily use at fourpence per pound.</p> + +<p>During our stay here I took care to procure seeds and plants +that would be valuable at Otaheite and the different places we +might touch at in our way thither. In this I was greatly assisted +by colonel Gordon, the commander of the troops. In company with +this gentleman the loss of the Grosvenor East Indiaman was +mentioned: on this subject colonel Gordon expressed great concern +that from anything he had said hopes were still entertained to +flatter the affectionate wishes of the surviving friends of those +unfortunate people. He said that in his travels into the Caffre +country he had met with a native who described to him that there +was a white woman among his countrymen who had a child, and that +she frequently embraced the child and cried most violently. This +was all he (the colonel) could understand and, being then on his +return home with his health much impaired by fatigue, the only +thing that he could do was to make a friend of the native by +presents and promises of reward on condition that he would take a +letter to this woman and bring him back an answer. Accordingly he +wrote letters in English, French, and Dutch desiring that some +sign or mark might be returned, either by writing with a burnt +stick or by any means she should be able to devise, to satisfy +him that she was there; and that on receiving such token from her +every effort should be made to ensure her safety and escape. But +the Caffre, although apparently delighted with the commission +which he had undertaken, never returned, nor has the colonel ever +heard anything more of him, though he had been instructed in +methods of conveying information through the Hottentot +country.</p> + +<p>To this account, that I may not again have occasion to +introduce so melancholy a subject, I shall add the little +information I received respecting it when I revisited the Cape in +my return towards Europe. A reputable farmer of the name of +Holhousen, who lives at Swellendam, eight days journey from the +Cape, had information from some Caffre Hottentots that at a kraal +or village in their country there were white men and women. On +this intelligence Mr. Holhousen asked permission of the governor +to make an expedition with some of the farmers into the country, +requiring a thousand rix-dollars to bear his expenses. The +governor referred him to Mr. Wocke, the Landros of Graaf Rienet, +a new colony in his way. But from the place where Mr. Holhousen +lives to the Landros, Mr. Wocke's residence, is a month's +journey, which he did not choose to undertake at an uncertainty, +as Mr. Wocke might have disapproved of the enterprise. It was in +October last that Mr. Holhousen offered to go on this service. He +was one of the party who went along the sea-coast in search of +these unfortunate people when a few of them first made their +appearance at the Cape. I am however informed that the Dutch +farmers are fond of making expeditions into the country, that +they may have opportunities of taking away cattle; and this I +apprehend to be one of the chief reasons why undertakings of this +kind are not encouraged.</p> + +<p>On the 13th of June the Dublin East Indiaman arrived from +England, on board of which ship was a party of the 77th regiment +under the command of colonel Balfour.</p> + +<p>The result of my lunar observations gave for the longitude of +Simon's Bay 18 degrees 48 minutes 34 seconds east; the latitude +34 degrees 11 minutes 34 seconds south. The timekeeper likewise +made the longitude 18 degrees 47 minutes east. The longitude as +established by former observations is 18 degrees 33 minutes east. +The variation of the compass on shore was 24 degrees 4 minutes +west; but on board of the ship it was only 22 degrees 28 minutes +west. The time of high-water was three-quarters past two on the +full and change and it then flowed six feet.</p> + +<p>With respect to the Cape Promontory it lies about three miles +east of the meridian of Simon's Town. All the tables of latitude +and longitude place the Cape in 34 degrees 29 minutes south +latitude; but from many observations off it with good instruments +I make it to lie in 34 degrees 23 minutes south, which agrees +with its situation as laid down in major Rennel's map. The part +which I call the Cape is the southernmost point of the land +between Table Bay and False Bay; but the Dutch consider the +westernmost part of the coast to be the Cape.</p> + +<p>Sunday 29.</p> + +<p>On the 29th, being ready for sea, I took the timekeeper and +instruments on board. The error of the timekeeper was 3 minutes 33 +seconds, 2 too slow for the mean time at Greenwich, and its rate +of going 3 seconds per day, losing. The thermometer during our +stay here was from 51 to 66 degrees.</p> + +<p>July. Tuesday 1.</p> + +<p>We had been thirty-eight days at this place, and my people had +received all the advantage that could be derived from the +refreshments of every kind that are here to be met with. We +sailed at four o'clock this afternoon, and saluted the platform +with thirteen guns as we ran out of the bay, which were +returned.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a name="ch4"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 4.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>Passage towards Van Diemen's Land.<br> +Make the Island of St. Paul.<br> +Arrival in Adventure Bay.<br> +Natives seen.<br> +Sail from Van Diemen's Land.</b></blockquote> + +<p>1788. July.</p> + +<p>We lost sight of the land the day after leaving False Bay and +steered towards the east-south-east, having variable winds the +first week with much thunder, lightning and rain. The remainder +of this passage the winds were mostly between the south and west +blowing strong. There were almost every day great numbers of +pintada, albatrosses, blue petrels, and other oceanic birds about +us; but it was observed that if the wind came from the northward, +only for a few hours, the birds generally left us, and their +presence again was the forerunner of a southerly wind.</p> + +<p>Sunday 13.</p> + +<p>The variation of the compass was 30 degrees 34 minutes west +which was the greatest variation we found in this track. Our +latitude 36 degrees 28 minutes south and longitude 39 degrees 0 +minutes east.</p> + +<p>Sunday 20.</p> + +<p>The latitude at noon was 40 degrees 30 minutes south and +longitude 60 degrees 7 minutes east. We were at this time +scudding under the fore-sail and close-reefed main-top-sail, the +wind blowing strong from the west. An hour after noon the gale +increased and blew with so much violence that the ship was almost +driven forecastle under before we could get the sails clewed up. +As soon as the sails were taken in we brought the ship to the +wind, lowered the lower yards, and got the top-gallant-masts upon +deck, which eased the ship very much.</p> + +<p>Monday 21.</p> + +<p>We remained lying to till eight the next morning when we bore +away under a reefed fore-sail. In the afternoon the sea ran so +high that it became very unsafe to stand on: we therefore brought +to the wind again, and remained lying to all night without +accident excepting that the man at the steerage was thrown over +the wheel and much bruised.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 22.</p> + +<p>Towards noon the violence of the storm abated and we again +bore away under the reefed fore-sail. Our latitude at noon 38 +degrees 49 minutes south: in the afternoon saw some whales.</p> + +<p>We continued running to the eastward in this parallel, it +being my intention to make the island St. Paul.</p> + +<p>Monday 28.</p> + +<p>On Monday the 28th at six in the morning we saw the island +bearing east by north 12 leagues distant: between 10 and 11 +o'clock we ran along the south side at about a league distant +from the shore. There was a verdure that covered the higher parts +of the land, but I believe it was nothing more than moss which is +commonly found on the tops of most rocky islands in these +latitudes. We saw several whales near the shore. The extent of +this island is five miles from east to west; and about two or +three from north to south. As we passed the east end we saw a +remarkable high sugarloaf rock, abreast of which I have been +informed is good anchorage in 23 fathoms, the east point bearing +south-west by south by true compass. I had this information from +the captain of a Dutch packet in which I returned to Europe. He +likewise said there was good fresh water on the island and a hot +spring which boiled fish in as great perfection as on a fire. By +his account the latitude which he observed in the road is 38 +degrees 39 minutes south; and from the anchoring place the island +of Amsterdam was in sight to the northward. We had fair weather +all the forenoon, but just at noon a squall came on which was +unfavourable for our observation. I had however two sets of +double altitudes and a good altitude exactly at noon according to +the timekeeper. The result of these gave for the latitude of the +centre of St. Paul 38 degrees 47 minutes south. The longitude I +make 77 degrees 39 minutes east. The variation of the compass, +taking the mean of what it was observed to be the day before we +saw the island and the day after, is 19 degrees 30 minutes +west.</p> + +<p>At noon we were three leagues past the island. We kept on +towards the east-south-east, and for several days continued to +see rock-weed, which is remarked to be generally the case after +ships pass St. Paul's; but to the westward of it very seldom any +is seen.</p> + +<p>August. Wednesday 13.</p> + +<p>In latitude 44 degrees 16 minutes south, longitude 122 degrees +7 minutes east, I observed the variation of the compass to be 6 +degrees 23 minutes west. I had no opportunity to observe it again +till in the latitude of 43 degrees 56 minutes south, longitude +133 degrees 16 minutes east, when it was 1 degree 38 minutes +east; so that we had passed the line of no variation. In 1780, on +board the Resolution in latitude 44 degrees 23 minutes south, +longitude 131 degrees 28 minutes east, the variation was observed +6 degrees 0 minutes west, which is a remarkable difference. We +had much bad weather with snow and hail, and in our approach to +Van Diemen's Land nothing was seen to indicate the nearness of +the coast, except a seal, when we were within the distance of 20 +leagues.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 19.</p> + +<p>At ten o'clock this afternoon we saw the rock named the +Mewstone, that lies near the south-west cape of Van Diemen's +Land, bearing north-east about six leagues. The wind blew strong +from the north-west. As soon as we had passed the Mewstone we +were sheltered from a very heavy sea which ran from the westward. +At eight o'clock at night we were abreast of the south cape when +the wind became light and variable. Saw several fires inland.</p> + +<p>The Mewstone is a high bold rock that lies five leagues to the +south-east of the south-west cape and is the part that all ships +bound this way should endeavour to make. Its latitude is 43 +degrees 46 or 47 minutes. Several islands lie to the northward +between that and the main, among which, bearing north by west +from the Mewstone, is a high rock much resembling it; and +north-north-east from the Mewstone, on the mainland, is a +remarkable high mountain, which in this direction appears notched +like a cock's comb; but as viewed from the eastward seems +round.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 20.</p> + +<p>All the 20th we were endeavouring to get into Adventure Bay +but were prevented by variable winds. The next morning at five +o'clock we anchored in the outer part, and at sunrise weighed +again: at noon we anchored well in the bay and moored the ship, +Penguin Island bearing north 57 1/2 degrees east, about two miles +distant; Cape Frederic Henry north 23 degrees east; and the mouth +of the Lagoon south 16 degrees east.</p> + +<p>In our passage from the Cape of Good Hope the winds were +mostly from the westward with very boisterous weather: but one +great advantage that this season of the year has over the summer +months is in being free from fogs. I have already remarked that +the approach of strong southerly winds is announced by many kinds +of birds of the albatross or petrel tribe, and the abatement of +the gale, or a shift of wind to the northward, by their keeping +away. The thermometer also very quickly shows when a change of +these winds may be expected by varying sometimes six and seven +degrees in its height. I have reason to believe that, after we +passed the island St. Paul, there was a westerly current; the +ship being every day to the westward of the reckoning, which in +the whole, from St. Paul to Van Diemen's land, made a difference +of four degrees between the longitude by the reckoning and the +true longitude.</p> + +<p>Thursday 21.</p> + +<p>The ship being moored I went in a boat to look out for the +most convenient place to wood and water at, which I found to be +at the west end of the beach: for the surf, though considerable, +was less there than at any other part of the bay. The water was +in a gully about sixty yards from the beach; it was perfectly +good but, being only a collection from the rains, the place is +always dry in the summer months; for we found no water in it when +I was here with Captain Cook in January 1777. We had very little +success in hauling the seine; about twenty small flounders, and +flat-headed fish called foxes were all that were taken.</p> + +<p>I found no signs of the natives having lately frequented this +bay or of any European vessels having been here since the +Resolution and Discovery in 1777. From some of the old trunks of +trees then cut down I saw shoots about twenty-five feet high and +fourteen inches in circumference.</p> + +<p>In the evening I returned on board.</p> + +<p>Friday 22.</p> + +<p>The next morning, the 22nd, at daylight, a party was sent on +shore for wooding and watering under the command of Mr. Christian +and the gunner; and I directed that one man should be constantly +employed in washing the people's clothes. There was so much surf +that the wood was obliged to be rafted off in bundles to the +boat. Mr. Nelson informed me that in his walks today he saw a +tree in a very healthy state which he measured and found to be +thirty-three feet and a half in girt; its height was proportioned +to its bulk.</p> + +<p>Saturday 23.</p> + +<p>The surf was rather greater than yesterday which very much +interrupted our wooding and watering. Nelson today picked up a +male opossum that had been recently killed, or had died, for we +could not perceive any wound unless it had received a blow on the +back where there was a bare place about the size of a shilling. +It measured fourteen inches from the ears to the beginning of the +tail which was exactly the same length.</p> + +<p>Most of the forest trees were at this time shedding their +bark. There are three kinds, which are distinguished from each +other by their leaves, though the wood appears to be the same. +Many of them are full one hundred and fifty feet high; but most +of those that we cut down were decayed at the heart. There are, +besides the forest trees, several other kinds that are firm good +wood and may be cut for most purposes except masts; neither are +the forest trees good for masts, on account of their weight, and +the difficulty of finding them thoroughly sound. Mr. Nelson +asserted that they shed their bark every year, and that they +increase more from the seed than by suckers.</p> + +<p>I found the tide made a difference of full two feet in the +height of the water in the lake at the back of the beach. At high +water it was very brackish, but at low tide it was perfectly +fresh to the taste, and soap showed no sign of its being the +least impregnated. We had better success in fishing on board the +ship than by hauling the seine on shore; for with hooks and lines +a number of fine rock-cod were caught. I saw today several +eagles, some beautiful blue-plumaged herons, and a great variety +of parakeets. A few oyster-catchers and gulls were generally +about the beach, and in the lake a few wild ducks.</p> + +<p>Monday 25.</p> + +<p>Being in want of plank I directed a saw-pit to be dug and +employed some of the people to saw trees into plank. The greater +part of this week the winds were moderate with unsettled +weather.</p> + +<p>Friday 29.</p> + +<p>On Friday it blew strong from the south-west with rain, +thunder, and lightning. We continued to catch fish in sufficient +quantities for everybody and had better success with the seine. +We were fortunate also in angling in the lake where we caught +some very fine tench. Some of the people felt a sickness from +eating mussels that were gathered from the rocks; but I believe +it was occasioned by eating too many. We found some spider-crabs, +most of them not good, being the female sort and out of season. +The males were tolerably good and were known by the smallness of +their two fore-claws or feeders. We saw the trunk of a dead tree +on which had been cut A.D. 1773. The figures were very distinct; +even the slips made with the knife were discernible. This must +have been done by some of captain Furneaux's people in March +1773, fifteen years before. The marks of the knife remaining so +unaltered, I imagine the tree must have been dead when it was +cut; but it serves to show the durability of the wood for it was +perfectly sound at this time. I shot two gannets: these birds +were of the same size as those in England; their colour is a +beautiful white, with the wings and tail tipped with jet black +and the top and back of the head of a very fine yellow. Their +feet were black with four claws, on each of which was a yellow +line the whole length of the foot. The bill was four inches long, +without nostrils, and very taper and sharp-pointed.</p> + +<p>The east side of the bay being not so thick of wood as the +other parts, and the soil being good, I fixed on it, at Nelson's +recommendation, as the most proper situation for planting some of +the fruit-trees which I had brought from the Cape of Good Hope. A +circumstance much against anything succeeding here is that in the +dry season the fires made by the natives are apt to communicate +to the dried grass and underwood, and to spread in such a manner +as to endanger everything that cannot bear a severe scorching. We +however chose what we thought the safest situations, and planted +three fine young apple-trees, nine vines, six plantain-trees, a +number of orange and lemon-seed, cherry-stones, plum, peach, and +apricot-stones, pumpkins, also two sorts of Indian corn, and +apple and pear kernels. The ground is well adapted for the trees, +being of a rich loamy nature. The spot where we made our +plantation was clear of underwood; and we marked the trees that +stood nearest to the different things which were planted. Nelson +followed the circuit of the bay, planting in such places as +appeared most eligible. I have great hopes that some of these +articles will succeed. The particular situations I had described +in my survey of this place, but I was unfortunately prevented +from bringing it home. Near the watering place likewise we +planted on a flat, which appeared a favourable situation, some +onions, cabbage-roots, and potatoes.</p> + +<p>For some days past a number of whales were seen in the bay. +They were of the same kind as those we had generally met with +before, having two blow-holes on the back of the head.</p> + +<p>September. Monday 1.</p> + +<p>On the night of the 1st of September we observed for the first +time signs of the natives being in the neighbourhood. Fires were +seen on the low land near Cape Frederick Henry, and at daylight +we saw the natives with our glasses. As I expected they would +come round to us I remained all the forenoon near the wooding and +watering parties, making observations, the morning being very +favourable for that purpose. I was however disappointed in my +conjecture for the natives did not appear, and there was too +great a surf for a boat to land on the part where we had seen +them.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 2.</p> + +<p>The natives not coming near us, I determined to go after them, +and we set out in a boat towards Cape Frederick Henry, where we +arrived about eleven o'clock. I found landing impracticable and +therefore came to a grapnel, in hopes of their coming to us, for +we had passed several fires. After waiting near an hour I was +surprised to see Nelson's assistant come out of the wood: he had +wandered thus far in search of plants and told me that he had met +with some of the natives. Soon after we heard their voices like +the cackling of geese, and twenty persons came out of the wood, +twelve of whom went round to some rocks where the boat could get +nearer to the shore than we then were. Those who remained behind +were women.</p> + +<p>We approached within twenty yards of them, but there was no +possibility of landing and I could only throw to the shore, tied +up in paper, the presents which I intended for them. I showed the +different articles as I tied them up, but they would not untie +the paper till I made an appearance of leaving them. They then +opened the parcels and, as they took the articles out, placed +them on their heads. On seeing this I returned towards them when +they instantly put everything out of their hands and would not +appear to take notice of anything that we had given them. After +throwing a few more beads and nails on shore I made signs for +them to go to the ship, and they likewise made signs for me to +land, but as this could not be effected I left them, in hopes of +a nearer interview at the watering-place.</p> + +<p>When they first came in sight they made a prodigious +clattering in their speech and held their arms over their heads. +They spoke so quick that I could not catch one single word they +uttered. We recollected one man whom we had formerly seen among +the party of the natives that came to us in 1777, and who is +particularised in the account of Captain Cook's last voyage for +his humour and deformity. Some of them had a small stick, two or +three feet long, in their hands, but no other weapon.</p> + +<p>Their colour, as Captain Cook remarks, is a dull black: their +skin is scarified about their shoulders and breast. They were of +a middle stature, or rather below it. One of them was +distinguished by his body being coloured with red ochre, but all +the others were painted black with a kind of soot which was laid +on so thick over their faces and shoulders that it is difficult +to say what they were like.</p> + +<p>They ran very nimbly over the rocks, had a very quick sight, +and caught the small beads and nails which I threw to them with +great dexterity. They talked to us sitting on their heels with +their knees close into their armpits and were perfectly +naked.</p> + +<p>In my return towards the ship I landed at the point of the +harbour near Penguin Island, and from the hills saw the water on +the other side of the low isthmus of Cape Frederick Henry, which +forms the bay of that name. It is very extensive and in, or near, +the middle of the bay there is a low island. From this spot it +has the appearance of being a very good and convenient +harbour.</p> + +<p>The account which I had from Brown, the botanist's assistant, +was that in his search for plants he had met an old man, a young +woman, and two or three children. The old man at first appeared +alarmed, but became familiar on being presented with a knife. He +nevertheless sent away the young woman who went very reluctantly. +He saw some miserable wigwams, in which were nothing but a few +kangaroo skins spread on the ground, and a basket made of +rushes.</p> + +<p>Among the wood that we cut here we found many scorpions and +centipedes, with numerous black ants that were an inch long. We +saw no mosquitoes, though in the summer months they are very +troublesome.</p> + +<p>What is called the New Zealand tea plant grew here in great +abundance; so that it was not only gathered and dried to use as +tea but made excellent brooms. It bears a small pointed leaf of a +pleasant smell, and its seed is contained in a berry, about the +size of a pea, notched into five equal parts on the top. The soil +on the west and south sides of the bay is black mould with a +mixture of fine white sand and is very rich. The trees are lofty +and large, and the underwood grows so close together that in many +places it is impassable. The east side of the bay is a rich loamy +soil; but near the tops of the hills is very much encumbered with +stones and rocks: the underwood thinly placed and small. The +trees on the south, south-east, and south-west sides of the hills +grow to a larger size than those that are exposed to the opposite +points; for the sides of the trees open or exposed to the north +winds are naked with few branches; while the other sides are in a +flourishing state. From this I do not infer that the equatorial +are more hurtful than the polar winds; but that the trees by +their situation were more sheltered from the one for from the +other.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 3.</p> + +<p>A calm prevented our sailing today. The friendly interview +which we had had with the natives made me expect that they would +have paid us a visit; but we saw nothing more of them except +fires in the night upon the low land to the northward.</p> + +<p>The result of the observations which I made here, reduced to +Penguin Island, place it in 43 degrees 21 minutes 11 seconds +south latitude and in longitude 147 degrees 33 minutes 29 seconds +east, which scarcely differs from the observations made in 1777. +The variation of the compass observed on shore was 8 degrees 38 +minutes east; and on board the ship 8 degrees 29 minutes east. It +was high-water at the change of the moon at 49 minutes past six +in the morning. The rise was two feet eight inches. Southerly +winds, if of any continuance, make a considerable difference in +the height of the tides.</p> + +<p>Thursday 4.</p> + +<p>This forenoon, having a pleasant breeze at north-west, we +weighed anchor and sailed out of Adventure Bay. At noon the +southernmost part of Maria's Isles bore north 52 degrees east, +about five leagues distant; Penguin Island south 86 degrees west; +and Cape Frederick Henry north 65 degrees west. In this position +we had soundings at 57 fathoms, a sandy bottom. Latitude observed +43 degrees 22 minutes south.</p> + +<p>The southern part of Maria's Islands lie in latitude 43 +degrees 16 minutes south. The country is not in general woody, +but in some of the interior parts there appeared great abundance. +Among these islands I have no doubt of there being many +convenient places for shipping. On the east side in latitude 42 +degrees 42 minutes south and longitude 148 degrees 24 minutes +east in July, 1789, Captain Cox of the Mercury found a convenient +and secure harbour from all winds which he named Oyster Bay. Here +he found wood, water, and fish in great abundance. It has two +outlets and lies north, a little easterly, distant 34 miles from +the south-easternmost island, or point, seen from Adventure +Bay.</p> + +<p>Adventure Bay is a convenient and safe place for any number of +ships to take in wood and water during the summer months: but in +the winter, when the southerly winds are strong, the surf, on all +parts of the shore, makes the landing exceedingly troublesome. +The bay of Frederick Henry may perhaps be found preferable, as it +appears to be equally easy of access. The soundings in Adventure +Bay are very regular: near the west shore are some patches of +weed but no shoal or danger, the depth on them being from five to +nine fathoms.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a name="ch5"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 5.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>Rocky Islands discovered.<br> +See the Island Maitea and arrive at Otaheite.<br> +Ship crowded by the Natives.</b></blockquote> + +<p>1788. September.</p> + +<p>Being clear of the land we steered towards the +east-south-east, it being my intention to pass to the southward +of New Zealand, as I expected in that route to meet with constant +westerly winds; in which however I was disappointed, for they +proved variable and frequently from the eastward blowing strong, +with thick misty weather. The thermometer varied from 41 to 46 +degrees.</p> + +<p>Sunday 14.</p> + +<p>On the 14th at noon we were in 49 degrees 24 minutes south +latitude and in 168 degrees 3 minutes east longitude, which is on +the same meridian with the south end of New Zealand. We altered +our course, steering to the northward of east, and frequently saw +rock-weed which I supposed to have drifted from New Zealand. The +sea now became rougher from our being exposed to a long swell +which came from the north-east.</p> + +<p>Friday 19.</p> + +<p>On the 19th at daylight we discovered a cluster of small rocky +islands bearing east by north four leagues distant from us. We +had seen no birds or anything to indicate the nearness of land +except patches of rock-weed, for which the vicinity of New +Zealand sufficiently accounted. The wind being at north-east +prevented our near approach to these isles; so that we were not +less than three leagues distant in passing to the southward of +them. The weather was too thick to see distinctly: their extent +was only 3 1/2 miles from east to west and about half a league +from north to south: their number including the smaller ones was +thirteen. I could not observe any verdure on any of them: there +were white spots like patches of snow but, as Captain Cook, in +describing the land of New Zealand, near Cape South, says, in +many places there are patches like white marble, it is probable +that what we saw might be of the same kind as what he had +observed. The westernmost of these islands is the largest; they +are of sufficient height to be seen at the distance of seven +leagues from a ship's deck. When the easternmost bore north I +tried for soundings, being then 10 miles distant from the nearest +of them, and found bottom at 75 fathoms, a fine white sand: and +again at noon, having run six leagues more to the +east-south-east, we had soundings at 104 fathoms, a fine +brimstone-coloured sand. The latitude of these islands is 47 +degrees 44 minutes south; their longitude 179 degrees 7 minutes +east, which is about 145 leagues to the east of the Traps, near +the south end of New Zealand. Variation of the compass here 17 +degrees east. While in sight of the islands we saw some penguins, +and a white kind of gull with a forked tail. Captain Cook's track +in 1773 was near this spot, but he did not see the islands: he +saw seals and penguins hereabouts, but considered New Zealand to +be the nearest land. I have named them after the ship the Bounty +Isles.</p> + +<p>Sunday 21.</p> + +<p>This day we saw a seal, some rock-weed, and a great many +albatrosses. I tried for soundings but found no bottom at 230 +fathoms depth. Our latitude 47 degrees 32 minutes south, +longitude 182 degrees 36 minutes east.</p> + +<p>October. Thursday 2.</p> + +<p>Were in 40 degrees 27 minutes south latitude and 214 degrees 4 +minutes east longitude. It being calm, and a number of small +blubbers about the ship, I took up some in a bucket, but I saw no +difference between them and the common blubbers in the West +Indies. We frequently in the night-time observed the sea to be +covered with luminous spots caused by prodigious quantities of +small blubbers that, from the strings which extend from them, +emit a light like the blaze of a candle, while the body continues +perfectly dark.</p> + +<p>Friday 3.</p> + +<p>The 3rd in the morning we saw a seal. Captain Cook has +remarked seeing seaweed when nearly in the same place. Our +latitude 40 degrees 21 minutes south, longitude 215 degrees east. +Variation of the compass 7 degrees 45 minutes east. Being now +well to the eastward of the Society Islands I steered more to the +northward.</p> + +<p>We continued to have the southern oceanic birds accompany us +and a few whales. The people caught albatrosses and fattened them +in the same manner which they had done when off Cape Horn. Some +of these measured near eight feet between the tips of the wings +when spread.</p> + +<p>Thursday 9.</p> + +<p>On Thursday the 9th we had the misfortune to lose one of our +seamen, James Valentine, who died in the night of an asthmatic +complaint. This poor man had been one of the most robust people +on board until our arrival at Adventure Bay, where he first +complained of some slight indisposition for which he was bled, +and got better. Some time afterwards the arm in which he had been +bled became painful and inflamed: the inflammation increased, +with a hollow cough, and extreme difficulty of breathing, to his +death.</p> + +<p>Monday 13.</p> + +<p>The 13th in the afternoon we saw two land birds like what are +called sand-larks. Our latitude at this time was 28 degrees 3 +minutes south and longitude 223 degrees 26 minutes east.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 14.</p> + +<p>The next morning we saw a tropic bird and some fish. The winds +were light and variable with calms from this time to the 19th, +when a breeze sprang up from the north-east, which gradually came +round to the eastward and proved to be the tradewind. Our +latitude on the 19th at noon was 24 degrees 13 minutes south, +longitude 222 degrees 17 minutes east. Variation of the compass 5 +degrees 19 minutes east.</p> + +<p>Saturday 25.</p> + +<p>On the 25th at half-past seven in the morning we saw the +Island Maitea, called Osnaburg by Captain Wallis, who first +discovered it. At noon it bore south-west by west one-quarter +west, six miles distant. Our latitude 17 degrees 50 minutes +south, longitude 212 degrees 24 minutes east. Variation five +degrees east. As Captain Wallis and Captain Cook had both passed +near the south side, I ran along the north side, which is +remarkably steep. The island is high and round and not more than +three miles in its greatest extent. The south side, where the +declivity from the hill is more gradual, is the chief place of +residence of the natives; but the north side, from the very +summit down to the sea, is so steep that it can afford no support +to the inhabitants. We steered pretty close in to the northward +of the east end, where we saw but few habitations: a very neat +house on a small eminence, delightfully situated in a grove of +coconut-trees, particularly attracted our notice. About twenty of +the natives followed us along shore, waving and showing large +pieces of cloth; but the surf on the shore was too high to think +of having any communication with them. I observed a great number +of coconut-trees but did not see one plantain-tree. There were +other trees but of what kind we could not distinguish: near the +east end are two remarkable rocks, and a reef runs off to the +eastward about half a league.</p> + +<p>The latitude of Maitea is 17 degrees 53 minutes south; and by +our timekeeper its longitude is 1 degree 24 minutes east from +Point Venus. Variation of the compass 5 degrees 36 minutes +east.</p> + +<p>We continued our course to the westward, and at six in the +evening saw Otaheite bearing west three-quarters south; the +island Maitea, then in sight, bearing east half south, eight +leagues distant. As there was great probability that we should +remain a considerable time at Otaheite, it could not be expected +that the intercourse of my people with the natives should be of a +very reserved nature: I therefore ordered that every person +should be examined by the surgeon, and had the satisfaction to +learn from his report that they were all perfectly free from any +venereal complaint.</p> + +<p>Sunday 26.</p> + +<p>On the 26th at four o'clock in the morning, having run +twenty-five leagues from Maitea, we brought to till daylight, +when we saw Point Venus bearing south-west by west, distant about +four leagues. As we drew near a great number of canoes came off +to us. Their first enquiries were if we were tyos, which +signifies friends; and whether we came from Pretanie (their +pronunciation of Britain) or from Lima: they were no sooner +satisfied in this than they crowded on board in vast numbers, +notwithstanding our endeavours to prevent it, as we were working +the ship in; and in less than ten minutes the deck was so full +that I could scarce find my own people. At nine in the forenoon +we were obliged to anchor in the outer part of Matavai Bay, in +thirteen fathoms, being prevented by light variable winds from +placing the ship in a proper berth. In this station the west part +of One-tree hill bore south by east half east one mile +distant.</p> + +<p>This passage of fifty-two days from Van Diemen's Land may be +rated as moderate sailing. We passed New Zealand with the spring +equinox and the winds, though strong, were at no time violent. To +the southward of 40 degrees 0 minutes south they were variable; +between the latitudes of 40 and 33 degrees south the wind kept in +the north-west quarter; afterwards till we got into the trade the +winds were variable, mostly from the eastward, but light and +inclinable to calms. The ship was 3 degrees 22 minutes in +longitude to the eastward of the dead reckoning, which the +timekeeper almost invariably proved to be owing to a current +giving us more easting than the log. Our track was as distant +from any course of former ships as I could conveniently make it +and, though we made no new discoveries, except the small cluster +of islands near New Zealand, yet in other parts of the track, as +has been noticed, we met with signs of being in the neighbourhood +of land.</p> + +<p>It may not be unworthy of remark that the whole distance which +the ship had run by the log, in direct and contrary courses, from +leaving England to our anchoring at Otaheite, was twenty-seven +thousand and eighty-six miles which, on an average, is at the +rate of a hundred and eight miles each twenty-four hours.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a name="ch6"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 6.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>Account of an English Ship lately sailed from Otaheite.<br> +Death of Omai.<br> +Captain Cook's Picture sent on board.<br> +Otoo visits the Ship.<br> +His Visit returned.<br> +Natives well disposed towards us.<br> +Account of the Cattle left by Captain Cook.<br> +Breadfruit plants promised.<br> +Visit to the Earee Rahie.<br> +Presents made to the Arreoys.</b></blockquote> + +<p>1788. October. Sunday 26.</p> + +<p>The ship being anchored, our number of visitors continued to +increase; but as yet we saw no person that we could recollect to +have been of much consequence. Some inferior chiefs made me +presents of a few hogs and I made them presents in return. We +were supplied with coconuts in great abundance but breadfruit was +scarce.</p> + +<p>Many enquiries were made after Captain Cook, Sir Joseph Banks, +and many of their former friends. They said a ship had been here +from which they had learnt that Captain Cook was dead; but the +circumstances of his death they did not appear to be acquainted +with; and I had given particular directions to my officers and +ship's company that they should not be mentioned. The ship spoken +of, they informed me, stayed at Otaheite one month and had been +gone four months, by some of their accounts; according to others +only three months. The captain they called Tonah. I understood +likewise from them that Lieutenant Watts was in the ship who, +having been here in the Resolution with Captain Cook, was well +known to them. One of my first enquiries, as will naturally be +imagined, was after our friend Omai; and it was a sensible +mortification and disappointment to me to hear that not only +Omai, but both the New Zealand boys who had been left with him, +were dead. Everyone agreed in their information that they died a +natural death. Otoo, who was the chief of Matavai when Captain +Cook was here the last time, was absent at another part of the +island; they told me messengers were sent to inform him of our +arrival, and that he was expected to return soon. There appeared +among the natives in general great goodwill towards us, and they +seemed to be much rejoiced at our arrival. This whole day we +experienced no instance of dishonesty. We were so much crowded +that I could not undertake to remove to a more proper station +without danger of disobliging our visitors by desiring them to +leave the ship: this business was therefore deferred till the +next morning.</p> + +<p>Monday 27.</p> + +<p>Early in the morning, before the natives began to flock off to +us, we weighed anchor to work farther into the bay, and moored at +about a quarter of a mile distance from the shore; Point Venus +bearing north 16 degrees east; the west part of One-tree hill +south-west by south; and the point of the reef north 37 degrees +west; the ship lying in seven fathoms water.</p> + +<p>Several chiefs now came on board and expressed great pleasure +at seeing me. Among these were Otow, the father of Otoo, and +Oreepyah, his brother; also another chief of Matavai called +Poeeno: and to these men I made presents. Two messengers likewise +arrived from Otoo to acquaint me of his being on his way to the +ship; each of whom brought me as a present from Otoo a small pig +and a young plantain-tree as a token of friendship. The ship was +now plentifully supplied with provisions; every person having as +much as he could consume.</p> + +<p>As soon as the ship was secured I went on shore with the chief +Poeeno, and accompanied by a multitude of the natives. He +conducted me to the place where we had fixed our tents in 1777 +and desired that I would now appropriate the spot to the same +use. We then went across the beach and through a walk +delightfully shaded with breadfruit trees to his own house. Here +we found two women at work staining a piece of cloth red. These I +found were his wife and her sister. They desired me to sit down +on a mat which was spread for the purpose, and with great +kindness offered me refreshments. I received the congratulations +of several strangers who came to us and behaved with great +decorum and attention. The people however thronged about the +house in such numbers that I was much incommoded by the heat, +which being observed they immediately drew back. Among the crowd +I saw a man who had lost his arm just above the elbow; the stump +was well covered and the cure seemed as perfect as could be +expected from the greatest professional skill.</p> + +<p>I made enquiries about the cattle that had been left here by +Captain Cook, but the accounts I received were very unfavourable +and so various that for the present I shall forebear speaking of +them. After staying about an hour I got up to take leave, when +the women in a very obliging manner came to me with a mat and a +piece of their finest cloth, which they put on me after the +Otaheite fashion. When I was thus dressed they each of them took +one of my hands, and accompanied me to the waterside, and at +parting promised that they would soon return my visit.</p> + +<p>In this walk I had the satisfaction to see that the island had +received some benefit from our former visits. Two shaddocks were +brought to me, a fruit which they had not, till we introduced it. +And among the articles which they brought off to the ship and +offered for sale were capsicums, pumpkins, and two young +goats.</p> + +<p>On my return to the ship I found that a small disturbance had +been occasioned by one of the natives making an attempt to steal +a tin pot; which, on being known to Oreepyah, he flew into a +violent rage, and it was with some difficulty that the thief +escaped with his life. He drove all his countrymen out of the +ship; and when he saw me he desired if at any time I found a +thief that I would order him to be tied up and punished with a +severe flogging.</p> + +<p>This forenoon a man came on board with Captain Cook's picture +which had been drawn by Mr. Webber in 1777 and left with Otoo. It +was brought to me to be repaired. The frame was broken but the +picture no way damaged except a little in the background. They +called it Toote (which has always been their manner of +pronouncing Captain Cook's name) Earee no Otaheite, chief of +Otaheite. They said Toote had desired Otoo, whenever any English +ship came, to show the picture, and it would be acknowledged as a +token of friendship. The youngest brother of Otoo, named +Whydooah, visited me this afternoon: he appeared stupefied with +drinking ava. At sunset all our male visitors left the ship.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 28.</p> + +<p>The next morning early I received a message from Otoo to +inform me of his arrival and requesting that I would send a boat +for him; which I immediately did with an officer (Mr. Christian) +to conduct him on board. He came with numerous attendants and +expressed much satisfaction at our meeting. After introducing his +wife to me we joined noses, the customary manner of saluting, and +to perpetuate our friendship he desired we should exchange names. +I was surprised to find that instead of Otoo, the name by which +he formerly went, he was now called Tinah. The name of Otoo, with +the title of Earee Rahie, I was informed had devolved to his +eldest son who was yet a minor, as is the custom of the country. +The name of Tinah's wife was Iddeah: with her was a woman dressed +with a large quantity of cloth in the form of a hoop, which was +taken off and presented to me with a large hog and some +breadfruit. I then took my visitors into the cabin and after a +short time produced my presents in return. The present I made to +Tinah (by which name I shall hereafter call him) consisted of +hatchets, small adzes, files, gimblets, saws, looking-glasses, +red feathers, and two shirts. To Iddeah I gave earrings, +necklaces, and beads; but she expressed a desire also for iron, +and therefore I made the same assortment for her as I had for the +husband. Much conversation took place among them on the value of +the different articles and they appeared extremely satisfied, so +that they determined to spend the day with me and requested I +would show them all over the ship, and particularly the cabin +where I slept. This though I was not fond of doing I indulged +them in; and the consequence was as I had apprehended that they +took a fancy to so many things that they got from me nearly as +much more as I had before given them. Afterwards Tinah desired me +to fire some of the great guns: this I likewise complied with +and, as the shot fell into the sea at a great distance, all the +natives expressed their surprise by loud shouts and +acclamations.</p> + +<p>I had a large company at dinner; for besides Tinah and his +wife there was Otow, the father of Tinah, Oreepyah, and Whydooah, +two of his brothers, Poeeno, and several other chiefs. Tinah is a +very large man, much above the common stature, being not less +than six feet four inches in height and proportionably stout: his +age about thirty-five. His wife (Iddeah) I judged to be about +twenty-four years of age: she is likewise much above the common +size of the women at Otaheite and has a very animated and +intelligent countenance. Whydooah, the younger brother of Tinah, +was highly spoken of as a warrior but had the character of being +the greatest drunkard in the country; and indeed to judge from +the withered appearance of his skin he must have used the +pernicious drink called ava to great excess. Tinah was fed by one +of his attendants who sat by him for that purpose, this being a +particular custom among some of the superior chiefs; and I must +do him the justice to say he kept his attendant constantly +employed: there was indeed little reason to complain of want of +appetite in any of my guests. As the women are not allowed to eat +in presence of the men Iddeah dined with some of her companions +about an hour afterwards in private, except that her husband +Tinah favoured them with his company and seemed to have entirely +forgotten that he had already dined.</p> + +<p>Provisions were brought off to the ship in the greatest plenty +and, to prevent as much as possible anything which might occasion +disputes, I desired Mr. Peckover, the gunner, to undertake the +management of our traffic with the natives. Some of the hogs +brought today weighed 200 pounds and we purchased several for +salting. Goats were likewise brought off for sale, and I bought a +she-goat and kid for less than would have purchased a small hog. +Our friends here expressed much disappointment that there was no +portrait-painter on board; Tinah in particular, who wished to +have had pictures of his father and family.</p> + +<p>An intimacy between the natives and our people was already so +general that there was scarce a man in the ship who had not his +tyo or friend. Tinah continued with me the whole afternoon, in +the course of which he ate four times of roast pork besides his +dinner. When he left the ship he requested I would keep for him +all the presents I had given to him as he had not at Matavai a +place sufficiently safe to secure them from being stolen; I +therefore showed him a locker in my cabin for his use and gave +him a key to it. This is perhaps not so much a proof of his want +of power as of the estimation in which they hold European +commodities and which makes more than the common means of +security requisite to prevent theft.</p> + +<p>I had sent Nelson and his assistant to look for plants, and it +was no small pleasure to me to find by their report that +according to appearances the object of my mission would probably +be accomplished with ease. I had given directions to everyone on +board not to make known to the islanders the purpose of our +coming lest it might enhance the value of the breadfruit plants, +or occasion other difficulties. Perhaps so much caution was not +necessary but at all events I wished to reserve to myself the +time and manner of communication. Nelson met with two fine +shaddock-trees which he had planted in 1777: they were full of +fruit but not ripe.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 29.</p> + +<p>In the morning I returned Tinah's visit for I found he +expected it. He was in a small shed about a quarter of a mile to +the eastward of Matavai point with his wife and three children, +not their own but who they said were relations. In my walk I had +picked up a numerous attendance for everyone I met followed me; +so that I had collected such a crowd that the heat was scarce +bearable, everyone endeavouring to get a look to satisfy their +curiosity: they however carefully avoided pressing against me, +and welcomed me with cheerful countenances and great good +nature.</p> + +<p>I made Tinah understand that my visit was particularly to him, +and gave him a second present, equal to the first, which he +received with great pleasure; and to the people of consequence +that were about him I also presented some article or other. There +were great numbers of children and, as I took notice of the +little ones that were in arms and gave them beads, both small and +great, but with much drollery and good humour, endeavoured to +benefit by the occasion. Boys of ten and twelve years old were +caught up in arms and brought to me, which created much laughter; +so that in a short time I got rid of all I had brought on +shore.</p> + +<p>In my return I called on Poeeno, and an elderly chief, a +relation of his, called Moannah, the principal men of this +district and with whom I judged it my interest to be on good +terms. I gave them several valuable articles and, as the +situation here was eligible for a garden, I planted melon, +cucumber, and salad-seeds. I told them many other things should +be sown for their use; and they appeared much pleased when they +understood I intended to plant such things as would grow to be +trees and produce fruit. I saw large patches of tobacco growing +without culture and many pumpkin vines. The breadfruit trees and +coconut trees at this time were full of fruit.</p> + +<p>I went on board to dinner and Moannah accompanied me. In the +afternoon I returned to Poeeno's with some additional seeds to +improve the little garden I had begun to make in the forenoon. +While I was giving directions I received a message from Tinah +inviting me to come to him at his brother Oreepyah's house, which +was near the beach. At this place I found a great number of +people collected who, on my appearance, immediately made way for +me to sit down by Tinah. The crowd being ordered to draw back, a +piece of cloth about two yards wide and forty-one yards in length +was spread on the ground; and another piece of cloth was brought +by Oreepyah, which he put over my shoulders and round my waist in +the manner the chiefs are clothed. Two large hogs, weighing each +above two hundred pounds, and a quantity of baked breadfruit and +coconuts were then laid before me as a present, and I was desired +to walk from one end of the cloth spread on the ground to the +other, in the course of which Tyo and Ehoah* were repeated with +loud acclamations. This ceremony being ended Tinah desired I +would send the things on board, which completely loaded the boat; +we therefore waited till she came back and then I took them on +board with me; for I knew they expected some return. The present +which I made on this occasion was equal to any that I had made +before; but I discovered that Tinah was not the sole proprietor +of what he had given to me for the present I gave was divided +among those who, I guessed, had contributed to support his +dignity; among whom were Moannah, Poeenah, and Oreepyah; Tinah +however kept the greatest part of what I had given and everyone +seemed satisfied with the proportion he allotted them.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Tyo and Ehoah are words of the same signification, +i.e. friend.)</blockquote> + +<p>The Otaheite breed of hogs seems to be supplanted by the +European. Originally they were of the China sort, short and very +thick-necked; but the superior size of the European have made +them encourage our breed.</p> + +<p>Thursday 30.</p> + +<p>At break of day Tinah and his wife came again to the ship and, +as their attendants were numerous, I provided a breakfast for +them of broiled and roasted pork, which they preferred to tea. +Our arrival being known all over the island, we had this day a +great number of strangers on board who came from the most remote +parts, and in the forenoon some hooks and thimbles were cut out +from the blocks. This induced me to order all the natives out of +the ship except the chiefs and their attendants. In executing +these orders a daring fellow attacked the sentinel but escaped +among the crowd. Everyone knew the consequence of offending the +sentinel and were exceedingly alarmed at the appearance of anger +I thought necessary to assume.</p> + +<p>Among those who visited us today were two chiefs of great +consequence, Marremarre and his son Poohaitaiah Otee, Earees of +the districts of Itteeah and Attahooroo. Otee was fed at dinner +in the same manner as Tinah. It was evident that the attention +which I showed to these chiefs seemed to give uneasiness to +Tinah. At sunset my visitors took leave and were carried on shore +by one of the ship's boats, which has always been regarded as a +mark of distinction, and on that account preferred by them to +going in their own canoes. At their request a race was rowed +between our five-oared cutter and one of their double canoes with +four paddles. Great exertions were used on both sides but the +cutter first reached the shore. In their return to the ship +Oreepyah stopped them till a large piece of cloth that he had +sent for was brought; which he tied to the boat-hook and desired +should be carried off as a trophy of their victory.</p> + +<p>Friday 31.</p> + +<p>The next morning at sunrise Moannah came on board with a +message from Tinah to acquaint me that he was mattow (afraid to +see me) till he had recovered some things that had been stolen +from the ship and which he had sent after. I knew there was +something wrong, as no canoes came off to us and, on looking +about, we found the buoy of the best bower anchor had been taken +away, I imagine for the sake of some iron hoops that were on it. +That this might not create any coolness I sent a boat to Tinah to +invite him and his friends to come on board; which they +immediately did and were no longer under any apprehensions. I had +made an appointment with Oreepyah for him to go with me to Oparre +this morning; but the accident just mentioned caused him to break +his engagement, he having gone, I was informed, in search of what +had been stolen.</p> + +<p>Oparre is the district next to the westward of Matavai. One of +my reasons for going to Oparre was to see if Nelson would be able +to procure plants there; but I gave the credit of my visit to +young Otoo, the son of Tinah, who was the Earee Rahie, and lived +with the rest of Tinah's children at Oparre. I prepared a +magnificent present for this youth, who was represented to me as +the person of the greatest consequence, or rather of the highest +rank, in the island. At noon I left the ship, accompanied by +Tinah, his wife Iddeah, and Poeeno. Moannah was to have been of +the party but he insisted on remaining in the ship to prevent his +countrymen from attempting to steal anything.</p> + +<p>After half an hour's sailing we arrived at Oparre. During this +time Tinah gave me a more circumstantial account of the cattle +and sheep that had been left with him: he related that, after +five years from the time of Captain Cook's departure (counting 63 +moons) the people of the Island Eimeo joined with those of +Attahooroo, a district of Otaheite, and made a descent on Oparre: +that after some resistance by which many men were killed Tinah +and his people fled to the mountains, leaving all their property +to the mercy of the victorious party who destroyed almost +everything which they found not convenient to take away with +them. Some of the cattle were killed and eaten but the greater +part were taken to Eimeo. The cows he said had produced eight +calves and the ewes ten young ones. The ducks, among which they +classed the geese, had greatly increased; but the turkeys and +peacocks, whatever was the cause, had not bred. It seemed to give +Tinah great pleasure to observe how much I was concerned for the +destruction of so many useful animals; but the cause of his +satisfaction, I found, did not proceed from any expectation that +I should replace them, but from the belief that I would take +vengeance on the people who had deprived him of them; for with +respect to the loss of the cattle he appeared so unconcerned and +indifferent that I was very angry with him. There is however +sufficient excuse for his resentment against the people of Eimeo; +for the large extensive houses which we had seen in this part of +Otaheite in the year 1777 were all destroyed, and at present they +had no other habitations than light sheds which might be taken by +the four corners and removed by four men: and of the many large +canoes which they then had not more than three remained. Tinah, +understanding from my conversation that I intended visiting some +of the other islands in this neighbourhood, very earnestly +desired I would not think of leaving Matavai. "Here," said he, +"you shall be supplied plentifully with everything you want. All +here are your friends and friends of King George: if you go to +the other islands you will have everything stolen from you." I +replied that, on account of their goodwill and from a desire to +serve him and his country, King George had sent out those +valuable presents to him; "and will not you, Tinah, send +something to King George in return?" "Yes," he said, "I will send +him anything I have;" and then began to enumerate the different +articles in his power, among which he mentioned the breadfruit. +This was the exact point to which I wished to bring the +conversation and, seizing an opportunity which had every +appearance of being undesigned and accidental, I told him the +breadfruit trees were what King George would like; upon which he +promised me a great many should be put on board, and seemed much +delighted to find it so easily in his power to send anything that +would be well received by King George.</p> + +<p>On landing at Oparre an immense crowd of natives as usual +immediately thronged about us. I enquired for Oreepyah, whom I +expected to have met me here, but he was not yet returned from +his search after the thieves; we therefore went under a shed of +his to wait for him, and in about a quarter of an hour he joined +us, bringing with him an iron scraper and one of the hoops of the +buoy. I thanked him for the trouble which he had taken, and +assured him that I was perfectly satisfied, for he still seemed +apprehensive of my displeasure.</p> + +<p>We took leave for a short time of Oreepyah and I proceeded +with Tinah to make my visit to the young Otoo, the Earee Rahie. +When we had walked about five minutes Tinah stopped and informed +me that no person could be permitted to see his son, who was +covered above the shoulders. He then took off his upper garments +and requested I would do the same. I replied that I had no +objection to go as I would to my own king, who was the greatest +in all the world and, pulling off my hat, he threw a piece of +cloth round my shoulders and we went on. About a quarter of a +mile farther towards the hills, through a delightful shade of +breadfruit trees, we stopped at the side of a small serpentine +river: here I was in view of a house on the other side at about +fifty yards distance. From this house the young king was brought +out on a man's shoulders, clothed in a piece of fine white cloth, +and I was desired by Tinah to salute him by the name of Too Earee +Rahie. The present which I had prepared was divided into three +parts, and two other children made their appearance in the same +manner. The first present I gave to a messenger who attended for +that purpose; and I was instructed by Tinah to say that it was +for the Earee Rahie; that I was his friend; that I hated thieves; +and that I came from Britannia. The second present was sent in +the same manner, with a similar message, to one of the other +children and likewise the third.</p> + +<p>As I could not see the Earee Rahie distinctly I desired to be +permitted to go over the river to him; but this, it seems, could +not be complied with: therefore after seeing the presents +delivered I returned with Tinah towards Oreepyah's house. I was +informed that Tinah had four children by his wife Iddeah. Otoo, +or Too, the Earee Rahie, appeared to be about six years old: the +second is a girl named Terrenah Oroah: the third a boy, +Terreetappanooai; and a fourth, an infant girl, whom I did not +see, named Tahamydooah.</p> + +<p>When we came to the place where we had first stopped Tinah +took the cloth from my shoulders and desired me to put my hat on; +I expressed a desire to see more of the place and he took me back +by a different way. On passing a trunk of a tree, rudely carved, +I was desired again to pull my hat off, and all uncovered their +shoulders. This I discovered to be nothing more than the boundary +of the king's land; on which whoever set their feet uncovered +themselves out of respect.</p> + +<p>We stopped at a house belonging to Tinah where I was treated +with a concert of one drum and three flutes with singing by four +men. I made some presents to the performers and we removed to +Oreepyah's house where, after paying my compliments to him, which +I found was expected, Tinah made me a present of a large hog and +some coconuts. He then introduced an uncle of his called +Mowworoah, a very old man much tattooed and almost blind. To this +chief I made a present and soon after I embarked with Tinah, +Oreepyah, their wives, and Poeeno. A vast number of people were +collected on the beach to see us depart and as soon as the boat +had put off Tinah desired me to fire my pocket pistol, the +poopooe ete ete, as he called it: the report seemed to electrify +the whole crowd but, finding no harm done, they gave great shouts +of approbation.</p> + +<p>Nelson, who accompanied me in this expedition, had but little +opportunity to search after plants, the natives having crowded so +much about him: he saw enough however to assure him that they +were to be procured here as plentifully as at Matavai.</p> + +<p>In our passage to the ship, which we rowed in one hour, +nothing but Britannie was enquired after and of the number of +ships and guns. When I told them we had ships of 100 guns they +could not believe it till I drew one on paper: they then asked me +if it was not as big as Tarrah, which is a high projecting +headland halfway between Matavai and Oparre, called by us +One-tree Hill. Tinah much wished that one of these large ships +should be sent to Otaheite and that myself should come in her, +and bring him a number of things that he wanted; among which he +particularly desired beds and high-backed elbow chairs might not +be forgotten: a request perfectly according with the indolent +character of Tinah.</p> + +<p>November. Saturday 1.</p> + +<p>As we had occasion to fix a tent on Point Venus this morning +we moved the ship nearer to it and moored again in six fathoms, +the point bearing north-north-east.</p> + +<p>Tinah and several other chiefs dined on board with me. After +dinner I went on shore with Tinah and made a visit to his father +Otow. I likewise went to the garden which I had made near +Poeeno's house and found everything had been taken care of. After +this I was invited to an entertainment called Heiva, which Tinah +had ordered and which consisted of singing and dancing by three +men and a young girl. When this performance was finished I +returned to the ship.</p> + +<p>Sunday 2.</p> + +<p>At daylight I sent Mr. Christian with a party to erect our +tent and soon after followed myself with Tinah, Moannah, and +Poeeno. With their consent I fixed a boundary, within which the +natives were not to enter without leave and the chiefs cautioned +them against it.</p> + +<p>The principal use of the tents on shore was for a lodgment for +the plants; and I had now, instead of appearing to receive a +favour, brought the chiefs to believe that I was doing them a +kindness in carrying the plants as a present from them to the +Earee Rahie no Britanee. The party at the tent consisted of nine +persons, including Nelson and his assistant.</p> + +<p>Tinah dined with me on board and was today my only visitor: +nevertheless the ceremony of being fed he so scrupulously +observed that, even after all the attendants were sent away and +we were left by ourselves, I was obliged to lift the wine to his +mouth. The wives of the Earees are sometimes subject to this +restriction after the birth of a child but are released after a +certain time on performing a ceremony called Oammo.</p> + +<p>After dinner Tinah invited me to accompany him with a present +of provisions to a party of the Arreoys, a society described in +the accounts of the former voyages: in this ceremony he made me +the principal person. Our way to the place where the offering was +to be made was by the side of a river along the banks of which I +had always walked before this time; but on the present occasion a +canoe was provided for me and dragged by eight men. On arriving +at the landing-place I saw a large quantity of breadfruit with +some hogs ready dressed and a quantity of cloth. At about forty +yards distant sat a man who, I was informed, was a principal +Arreoy. A lane being made by the crowd he was addressed by one of +Tinah's people, standing on the canoe, in a speech composed of +short sentences which lasted about a quarter of an hour. During +this a piece of cloth was produced, one end of which I was +desired to hold, and five men, one with a sucking pig and the +others having each a basket of breadfruit, prepared to follow me. +In this order we advanced to the Arreoy and laid the whole down +before him. I then spoke several sentences dictated to me by +Tinah, the meaning of which I did not understand and, my +pronunciation not being very exact, caused a great deal of mirth. +This speech being finished I was shown another Arreoy, who had +come from Ulietea, and to him likewise I was required to deliver +an oration. Tinah understanding from me that I had children in my +own country he desired me to make one more offering on their +account. There still remained three baskets of breadfruit, a +small pig, and another piece of cloth: with these, assisted as +before, I made the offering in favour of my children to the man +whom I had first addressed. He made no reply to all my fine +speeches but sat with great gravity and received everything as a +matter of right and not of courtesy.</p> + +<p>All that I could make out of this strange ceremony was that +the Arreoys are highly respected and that the society is chiefly +composed of men distinguished by their valour or some other +merit, and that great trust and confidence is reposed in them; +but I could not comprehend what this had to do with my children +or why it should be imagined that an offering made on their +account to a society of men who destroy all their children should +be propitious. I learnt from Tinah, in talking about his +children, that his first-born child was killed as soon as it came +into the world, he being then an Arreoy; but before his second +child was born he quitted the society. The Arreoys are allowed +great latitude in their amours except in times of danger. Then as +they are almost all fighting men (tata toa) they are restricted +that they may not weaken or enervate themselves.</p> + +<p>These ceremonies being ended I returned to the ship.</p> + +<p>Such of the natives as I conversed with about the institution +of so extraordinary a society as the Arreoy asserted that it was +necessary to prevent an overpopulation. Worrow worrow no te +mydidde, worrow worrow te tata. We have too many children and too +many men was their constant excuse. Yet it does not appear that +they are apprehensive of too great an increase of the lower class +of people, none of them being ever admitted into the Arreoy +society. The most remarkable instance related to me of the +barbarity of this institution was of Teppahoo, the Earee of the +district of Tettaha, and his wife, Tetteehowdeeah, who is sister +to Otow and considered as a person of the first consequence. I +was told that they have had eight children, every one of which +was destroyed as soon as born. That any human beings were ever so +devoid of natural affection as not to wish to preserve alive one +of so many children is not credible. It is more reasonable to +conclude that the death of these infants was not an act of choice +in the parents; but that they were sacrificed in compliance with +some barbarous superstition with which we are unacquainted. What +strengthens this conjecture is that they have adopted a nephew as +their heir, of whom they are excessively fond.</p> + +<p>In countries so limited as the islands in the South Seas, the +natives of which, before they were discovered by European +navigators, probably had not an idea of the existence of other +lands, it is not unnatural that an increasing population should +occasion apprehensions of universal distress. Orders of celibacy +which have proved so prejudicial in other countries might perhaps +in this have been beneficial; so far at least as to have answered +their purpose by means not criminal. The number of inhabitants at +Otaheite have been estimated at above one hundred thousand. The +island however is not cultivated to the greatest advantage: yet +were they continually to improve in husbandry their improvement +could not for a length of time keep pace with an unlimited +population.</p> + +<p>An idea here presents itself which, however fanciful it may +appear at first sight, seems to merit some attention: While we +see among these islands so great a waste of the human species +that numbers are born only to die, and at the same time a large +continent so near to them as New Holland, in which there is so +great a waste of land uncultivated and almost destitute of +inhabitants, it naturally occurs how greatly the two countries +might be made to benefit each other, and gives occasion to regret +that the islanders are not instructed in the means of emigrating +to New Holland, which seems as if designed by nature to serve as +an asylum for the superflux of inhabitants in the islands. Such a +plan of emigration, if rendered practicable to them, might not +only be the means of abolishing the horrid custom of destroying +children as it would remove the plea of necessity but might lead +to other important purposes. A great continent would be converted +from a desert to a populous country; a number of our +fellow-creatures would be saved; the inhabitants of the islands +would become more civilised; and it is not improbable but that +our colonies in New Holland would derive so much benefit as to +more than repay any trouble of expense that might be incurred in +endeavouring to promote so humane a plan.</p> + +<p>The latter however is a remote consideration for the +intertropical parts of New Holland are those most suited to the +habits and manner of living of the islanders; and likewise the +soil and climate are the best adapted to their modes of +agriculture. Man placed by his Creator in the warm climates +perhaps would never emigrate into the colder unless under the +tyrannous influence of necessity; and ages might elapse before +the new inhabitants would spread to our settlers though they are +but barely within the limits of frost, that great cause of +nine-tenths of the necessities of Europeans. Nevertheless besides +forwarding the purposes of humanity and general convenience in +bringing a people without land to a land without people the +benefit of a mutual intercourse with a neighbouring and friendly +colony would in itself be no inconsiderable advantage.</p> + +<p>Among people so free from ostentation as the Otaheiteans, and +whose manners are so simple and natural, the strictness with +which the punctilios of rank are observed is surprising. I know +not if any action, however meritorious, can elevate a man above +the class in which he was born unless he were to acquire +sufficient power to confer dignity on himself. If any woman of +the inferior classes has a child by an Earee it is not suffered +to live. Perhaps the offspring of Teppahoo and Tetteehowdeeah +were destined to satisfy some cruel adjustment of rank and +precedency.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a name="ch7"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 7.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>A theft committed.<br> +Deception of the painted Head.<br> +Conversation with a Priest.<br> +A Wrestling Match.<br> +Reports of the Natives concerning other Islands.<br> +Some Account of Omai.</b></blockquote> + +<p>1788. November. Monday 3.</p> + +<p>The trade for provisions I directed to be carried on at the +tent by Mr. Peckover the gunner. Moannah likewise resided there +as a guard over his countrymen; but though it appeared to be the +wish of all the chiefs that we should remain unmolested it was +not possible entirely to prevent them from pilfering.</p> + +<p>My table at dinner was generally crowded. Tinah, Oreepyah, +Poeeno, and Moannah, were my regular guests and I was seldom +without some chiefs from other districts. Almost every individual +of any consequence has several names which makes it frequently +perplexing when the same person is spoken of to know who is +meant. Every chief has perhaps a dozen or more names in the +course of thirty years; so that the person who has been spoken of +by one visitor will not perhaps be known to another unless other +circumstances lead to a discovery. The father of Tinah, at this +time called Otow, was known in 1769 by the name of Whappai.</p> + +<p>I showed Tinah the preparations I was making to take on board +the breadfruit plants which pleased him exceedingly, but he did +not forget to remind me that when the next ship came out he hoped +King George would send him large axes, files, saws, cloth of all +kinds, hats, chairs, and bedsteads, with arms, ammunition, and in +short everything he could think of mentioning.</p> + +<p>This afternoon the gudgeon of the rudder belonging to the +large cutter was drawn out and stolen without being perceived by +the man that was stationed to take care of her. Several petty +thefts having been committed by the natives, mostly owing to the +negligence of our own people and, as these kind of accidents +generally created alarm and had a tendency to interrupt the good +terms on which we were with the chiefs, I thought it would have a +good effect to punish the boat-keeper in their presence, many of +them happening to be then on board; and accordingly I ordered him +a dozen lashes. Tinah with several of the chiefs attended the +punishment and interceded very earnestly to get it mitigated: the +women showed great sympathy and that degree of feeling which +characterises the amiable part of their sex.</p> + +<p>The natives brought off today two different kinds of roots +that grow like yams: one they call Ettee, which is a sweet root, +common also to the Friendly Islands, and may be eaten as a +sweetmeat: the other they call Appay, a root like the Tyah or +Eddie in the West Indies. A fruit called Ayyah, which is the +jambo of Batavia, was likewise brought off to us: they are as +large as middle-sized apples, very juicy and refreshing, and may +be eaten in large quantities. Also some Avees, which are the real +Otaheite apple; but they were not yet in season. These are a +delicious high-flavoured fruit and before they are ripe answer +the culinary purposes of our apples.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 4.</p> + +<p>A chief called Tootaha, who came from the island Ulietea, was +introduced to me today by Tinah as one of his particular friends. +I was told that he was a priest and a person of great knowledge. +I desired Tinah to take what he thought proper as a present for +him; and I must do Tinah the justice to say he was more sparing +than I should have been. I likewise received a visit today from +Oedidee, the man who had been at sea with Captain Cook in 1773 +and 1774, as related in the account of that voyage. He still +retained some of the English words which he had learnt in that +expedition.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 5.</p> + +<p>The weather variable with lightning and frequent showers of +rain. Wind east-north-east.</p> + +<p>This was the first day of our beginning to take up plants: we +had much pleasure in collecting them for the natives offered +their assistance and perfectly understood the method of taking +them up and pruning them.</p> + +<p>The crowd of natives was not so great as hitherto it had been: +the curiosity of strangers was satisfied and, as the weather +began to be unsettled and rainy, they had almost all returned to +their homes so that only the people of Matavai and Oparre +remained with us, except a few chiefs from other islands: our +supplies however were abundant and what I considered as no small +addition to our comforts, we ceased to be incommoded when on +shore by the natives following us, and could take our walks +almost unnoticed. In any house that we wished to enter we always +experienced a kind reception and without officiousness. The +Otaheiteans have the most perfect easiness of manners, equally +free from forwardness and formality. When they offer refreshments +if they are not accepted they do not think of offering them the +second time; for they have not the least idea of that ceremonious +kind of refusal which expects a second invitation. In like manner +at taking leave we were never troubled with solicitations to +prolong our visit, but went without ceremony except making use of +a farewell expression at parting. Another advantage, seldom found +in warm countries, was, in this part of Otaheite being free from +mosquitoes, though at particular times of the year the +inhabitants are pestered with great numbers of flies.</p> + +<p>Moannah continued our constant friend at the tent and with +Tinah and all his friends dined with me every day.</p> + +<p>The ship's barber had brought with him from London a painted +head such as the hair-dressers have in their shops to show the +different fashions of dressing hair; and it being made with +regular features and well-coloured, I desired him to dress it, +which he did with much neatness, and with a stick and a quantity +of cloth he formed a body. It was then reported to the natives +that we had an Englishwoman on board and the quarter-deck was +cleared of the crowd that she might make her appearance. Being +handed up the ladder and carried to the after-part of the deck +there was a general shout of "Huaheine no Brittane myty." +Huaheine signifies woman and myty good. Many of them thought it +was living and asked if it was my wife. One old woman ran with +presents of cloth and breadfruit and laid them at her feet; at +last they found out the cheat; but continued all delighted with +it, except the old lady who felt herself mortified and took back +her presents for which she was laughed at exceedingly. Tinah and +all the chiefs enjoyed the joke and, after making many enquiries +about the British women, they strictly enjoined me when I came +again to bring a ship full of them.</p> + +<p>Some very fine sugarcane was brought to me; each of the pieces +was six inches round. I had before told Tinah that our sugar was +made of it and he was very desirous to discover the means; for +they were so fond of our loaf sugar that a present to any chief +would have been incomplete without a piece of it. Another article +in great estimation and likewise expected to make part of a +present was scissors, which they made use of to keep their beards +in order.</p> + +<p>By this time Nelson had, with assistance from the ship, +completed a large garden near the tents in which were sown seeds +of different kinds that we had collected at the Cape of Good +Hope. I likewise distributed fruit-stones and almonds for +planting among the chiefs, who I hope will endeavour to make them +succeed and, as they are very fond of sweet-smelling flowers with +which the women delight to ornament themselves, I gave them some +rose-seed.</p> + +<p>Thursday 6.</p> + +<p>We had very variable weather, much rain, and some westerly +winds; so that a considerable swell ran into the bay and a number +of spotted white and black porpoises made their appearance.</p> + +<p>I had the mortification to see that our garden-ground had been +much trod over; and what was worse the chiefs appeared but little +concerned at it. To this kind of carelessness and indifference I +attribute the miscarriage of many of the plants left here by +Captain Cook. I had now in a flourishing state two orange plants, +some vines, a fig-tree, and two pineapple plants, which I gave to +Poeeno whose residence is a place favourable for their +growth.</p> + +<p>We got on successfully with our plants, having a hundred +potted at the tent and in a fair way of doing well. The cabin +also was completed and ready to receive them on board.</p> + +<p>I have before remarked that my friend Tinah was rather of a +selfish disposition and this afternoon he showed a stronger +instance of it than I was witness to at any time before or after. +His brother Oreepyah sent on board to me a present of a large hog +and a quantity of breadfruit: but these kind of presents are much +more expensive than purchasing at the market. Soon after Oreepyah +himself came on board. Tinah was with me at the time and +whispered me to tell Oreepyah not to bring any more hogs or fruit +and to take those back which he had sent. This advice as may be +supposed did not produce the effect intended. Oreepyah appears to +be a man of great spirit, and is highly respected by his +countrymen. Among other visitors today was one of the men who had +been to Lima in 1776.</p> + +<p>Saturday 8.</p> + +<p>Our plants had now increased to 252: as they were all kept on +shore at the tent I augmented the guard there, though from the +general conduct of the natives there did not appear the least +occasion for so much caution.</p> + +<p>While I was at dinner Tinah desired I would permit a man to +come down into the cabin whom he called his Taowah or priest; for +I was obliged to keep a sentinel at the hatchway to prevent being +incommoded at my meals with too much company; a restriction which +pleased the chiefs who always asked leave for any particular +person to be admitted of whom they wished me to take notice. The +company of the priest brought on a religious conversation. He +said their great God was called Oro; and that they had many +others of less consequence. He asked me if I had a God? if he had +a son? and who was his wife? I told them he had a son but no +wife. Who was his father and mother? was the next question. I +said he never had father or mother; at this they laughed +exceedingly. You have a God then who never had a father or mother +and has a child without a wife! Many other questions were asked +which my little knowledge of the language did not enable me to +answer.</p> + +<p>The weather was now fine again and a great number of people +were come from other parts of the island. Tinah informed me that +there was to be a heiva and a wrestling-match on shore, and that +the performers waited for our attendance; we therefore set off +with several of our friends and, about a quarter of a mile from +the tents, we found a great concourse of people formed into a +ring. As soon as we were seated a dancing heiva began, which was +performed by two girls and four men: this lasted half an hour and +consisted of wanton gestures and motions such as have been +described in the account of former voyages. When the dance ended +Tinah ordered a long piece of cloth to be brought; his wife +Iddeah and myself were desired to hold the two first corners and, +the remaining part being supported by many others, we carried it +to the performers and gave it them. Several other chiefs made a +like present or payment. The performers were strollers that +travelled about the country as in Europe.</p> + +<p>After this the wrestling began and the place soon became a +scene of riot and confusion. A party of the Arreoys also began to +exercise a privilege, which it seems they are allowed, of taking +from the women such of their clothes as they thought worth it; so +that some of them were left little better than naked. One young +woman who was attacked opposed them with all her strength and +held fast her cloth, though they almost dragged her along the +ground. Observing that I took notice of her she held out her hand +and begged my assistance; and at my request she escaped being +pillaged.</p> + +<p>Soon after a ring was again made but the wrestlers were so +numerous within it that it was impossible to restore order. In +the challenges they lay one hand upon their breast and, on the +bending of the arm at the elbow, with the other hand they strike +a very smart blow which, as the hand is kept hollow, creates a +sound that may be heard at a considerable distance; and this they +do so frequently and with such force that the flesh becomes +exceedingly bruised and, the skin breaking, bleeds considerably. +At this time the sound from so many resembled that of a number of +people in a wood felling trees. This is the general challenge; +but when any two combatants agree to a trial they present their +hands forward, joining them only by the extremities of the +fingers. They begin by watching to take an advantage; at length +they close, seize each other by the hair and are most commonly +parted before either receives a fall. Only one couple performed +anything like the part of good wrestlers; and as they were an +equal match this conflict lasted longer than any of the others; +but they also were parted.</p> + +<p>Iddeah was the general umpire and she managed with so much +address as to prevent any quarrelling, and there was no murmuring +at her decisions. As her person was large she was very +conspicuous in the circle. Tinah took no part in the management. +Upon the whole this performance gave me a better opinion of their +strength than of their skill or dexterity.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 11.</p> + +<p>For some time past Tinah had talked of going to the island of +Tethuroa which lies eight or ten leagues north from Otaheite to +fetch his mother; but I found I had only half understood him; for +this morning he enquired when we were to sail there in the ship: +however he seemed to feel no great disappointment at my not +complying with his wish. Tethuroa he informed me is the property +of his family. He likewise spoke to me about an island called +Rooopow, the situation of which he described to be to the +eastward of Otaheite four or five days sail, and that there were +large animals upon it with eight legs. The truth of this account +he very strenuously insisted upon and wished me to go thither +with him. I was at a loss to know whether or not Tinah himself +gave credit to this whimsical and fabulous account; for though +they have credulity sufficient to believe anything, however +improbable, they are at the same time so much addicted to that +species of wit which we call humbug that it is frequently +difficult to discover whether they are in jest or earnest. Their +ideas of geography are very simple: they believe the world to be +a fixed plane of great extent; and that the sun, moon, and stars +are all in motion round it. I have been frequently asked by them +if I have not been as far as the sun and moon; for they think we +are such great travellers that scarce any undertaking is beyond +our ability.</p> + +<p>Another island called Tappuhoi, situated likewise to the +eastward, was described to me by Tinah, the inhabitants of which +were said to be all warriors, and that the people of Otaheite did +not dare to go there. He told me that very lately a canoe from +Tappuhoi was at the island Maitea; that as soon as they landed +they began to fight with the people of Maitea who killed them all +except a young lad and a woman who have since been at Otaheite. I +saw the boy but could get no information from him. It is most +probable that this unfortunate visit of the canoe from Tappuhoi +was not designed but occasioned by adverse winds which forced +them so far from their own island, and that the people of Maitea +began the attack, taking advantage of their superior numbers, on +account of some former quarrel.</p> + +<p>Thursday 13.</p> + +<p>I had a large company to dine with me today. Some of my +constant visitors had observed that we always drank His Majesty's +health as soon as the cloth was removed; but they were by this +time become so fond of wine that they would frequently remind me +of the health in the middle of dinner by calling out King George +Earee no Brittannee; and would banter me if the glass was not +filled to the brim. Nothing could exceed the mirth and jollity of +these people when they met on board.</p> + +<p>I was assured by Oediddee and several others that the vines +planted at the island Huaheine by Captain Cook had succeeded and +bore fruit; and that some of the other plants, both at Huaheine +and at Oaitepeha, a district on the south-east part of Otaheite, +had been preserved and were in a thriving state. I was likewise +informed that there was a bull and a cow alive at Otaheite but on +different parts of the island, the former at a place called +Itteah, the latter at the district of Tettaha. All the rest were +taken away or destroyed by the people of Eimeo. As Tettaha was at +no great distance I determined to go thither myself the first +opportunity, and make enquiries in hopes that the breed might +still be preserved.</p> + +<p>I had much discourse with my guests about Omai: they confirmed +to me that he died about thirty months after Captain Cook left +the islands. Soon after Captain Cook's departure from Huaheine +there were some disputes between the people of that island and +those of Ulietea in which also the natives of Bolabola took a +part. Omai, who was become of consequence from the possessing +three or four muskets and some ammunition, was consulted on the +occasion. Such was his opinion and assurances of success that a +war was determined on and took place immediately. Victory soon +followed through the means of those few arms and many of the +Ulietea and Bolabola men were killed. In this contest their +flints proved bad, or probably the locks of the muskets had got +out of order: this they remedied by a lighted stick, one man +presenting the musket and another with the burnt stick setting +fire to the priming; without which contrivance their arms would +have proved useless. This expedition it seems consumed all their +ammunition. Peace was soon after established, but I did not +understand that Omai had increased his possessions or his rank. +Nevertheless I have reason to conclude that he was in some degree +of favour with his countrymen from the general good character +which they give of him. It appears that he always remembered +England with kindness; for his accounts to his countrymen have +been such as to give them not only a great idea of our power and +consequence but of our friendship and goodwill towards him.</p> + +<p>Tyvarooah, the eldest of the New Zealand boys that were left +with him, died a short time after Omai: about Coah, the youngest, +I had always doubtful accounts till I came to Huaheine, where I +learnt that he likewise was dead.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a name="ch8"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 8.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>Expedition to Tettaba after a Heifer.<br> +Extraordinary domestic Arrangements.<br> +Tinah's Mother visits the Ship.<br> +A Sheep brought from Ulietea.<br> +Heavy Storm.<br> +Death of the Surgeon.<br> +Taowne and Toahroah Harbours examined.</b></blockquote> + +<p>1788. November.</p> + +<p>After dinner I went on shore and, while I was at the tents, +from having exposed myself too much in the sun, I was taken ill +and continued in much pain for near an hour. This was soon known +among the natives and I was exceedingly surprised to see Tinah +and all the principal people, both men and women, collecting +round me and offering their assistance. For this short illness I +was made ample amends by the pleasure I received from the +attention and appearance of affection in these kind people.</p> + +<p>Friday 14.</p> + +<p>This morning I had numberless enquiries after my health. The +weather being fine I invited Tinah, Oreepyah, and Poeeno, to +accompany me to Tettaha in order to enquire after the cow; and +soon after sunrise we set off in the launch. Tettaha is nearly +four leagues from Point Venus. On our arrival Tinah sent a man to +give notice of our visit. The chief of the district, whose name +was Teppahoo, did not appear, but sent a messenger to demand if I +came only to see the cow or to take it away with me. In answer to +this I sent assurances that I only desired to see it, and the +chiefs who were with me spoke to the same effect. I was then +desired to proceed in the boat farther along shore to the +westward. In our way Tinah made me stop among some fishing canoes +to purchase fish for him, which he eat raw with salt water for +sauce. When we arrived at the landing-place a great number of +people had collected, and soon after Teppahoo arrived. Oreepyah +and I went with him about a quarter of a mile, when I was shown +one of the most beautiful heifers I ever saw. I asked if they had +any more but they all said there was no other than a bull at +Itteah, as before mentioned. I could not refrain from expressing +my displeasure at the destruction and the foolish separation of +these fine animals. I had shared with Captain Cook in the trouble +of this business and had been equally anxious for the +success.</p> + +<p>The district of Tettaha is not so luxuriant and fruitful as +the country about Matavai. As I saw nothing of consequence to +detain me I made a present to Teppahoo and, after inviting him to +visit me on board the ship, which he promised to do, I took +leave. Tinah had remained all this time in the boat. I observed +that no respect was shown to him at this place, nor was he able +to procure a coconut or a breadfruit otherwise than by purchasing +it. The heifer being here is a proof of this district not having +been friendly to the people of Matavai and Oparre.</p> + +<p>In our way back, having to row against the wind, we stopped to +refresh at Oparre, and it was eight o'clock by the time we +arrived at the ship. I kept my fellow travellers on board to +supper and they did not fail to remind me of the king's +health.</p> + +<p>Monday 17.</p> + +<p>Our collection of breadfruit plants at the tents continued +increasing. This morning I sent twelve on board, in pots, to +discover where they would thrive the best, the air being more +temperate on board the ship than on shore. While I was absent +from the ship Teppahoo had been on board and left a hog as a +present for me.</p> + +<p>After dinner today Tinah, who was my constant visitor, left +the table sooner than usual. When he was gone Oreepyah, his +brother, and Oedidde, told me a piece of scandal, which had been +before hinted to me but which till now I had not heard of with +certainty: this was that Iddeah, Tinah's wife, kept a gallant, +who was a towtow, or servant, and the very person who always fed +Tinah at dinner: and this was so far from being without Tinah's +knowledge or consent that they said it was by his desire. They +added many other circumstances and, as I appeared to doubt, they +took several opportunities in the course of the day of mentioning +it to other people, who all declared it was true.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 18.</p> + +<p>This afternoon I saw Teppahoo and invited him on board: before +we parted I bargained with him for the heifer which he promised +to bring in five days. My intention was that if I got the heifer +I would endeavour to purchase the bull at Itteah: but if that +could not be done then I could send the heifer as a present to +the possessor of the bull, which might equally well answer my +purpose.</p> + +<p>It has been mentioned that Tinah had a place in my cabin to +keep those things which I gave him as being more secure on board +than on shore. I had remarked lately that his hoard seemed to +diminish the more I endeavoured to increase it: at length I +discovered that Iddeah kept another hoard in the master's cabin, +which she regularly enriched from her husband's whenever I made +him a present, apprehending that I should cease giving when I saw +Tinah's locker full. At his request I set the carpenters to work +to make him a chest large enough for himself and wife to sleep +on. Captain Cook had formerly given him such a chest but it had +been taken from him by the Eimeo people.</p> + +<p>Friday 21.</p> + +<p>This forenoon I received a message from Teppahoo to acquaint +me the heifer was brought to Matavai. I immediately went on shore +and found that he had been as good as his word. The purchase +money was paid, which consisted of a shirt, a hatchet, a spike +nail, a knife, a pair of scissors, a gimlet, and file; to which +was added a small quantity of loaf-sugar. Teppahoo appeared well +pleased with his bargain; and I sent the heifer to Poeeno's +residence near which was plenty of grass.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon I was invited to a heiva, the most +extraordinary part of which was an oration, with some ceremonies +in compliment to us. Twelve men were divided into four ranks, +with two women in the front; behind them all stood a priest who +made a speech which lasted ten minutes and which was listened to +with some attention. During this the picture of Captain Cook, +which had been brought for that purpose, was placed by my side. +When the priest left off speaking a piece of white cloth was +wrapped round the picture and another piece round me. The priest +then spoke again for a short time, and an old man placed a piece +of plaited coconut leaf at my feet; the same was done to Tinah, +and one piece was put under the picture. After this the dancing +began, which was in the same style that we had already seen.</p> + +<p>The head of the ship was the figure of a woman, and not ill +carved. As we were painting the ship's upper works I directed +this figure to be painted in colours, with which the islanders +were much pleased. Not only the men but the women desired me to +bring English women when I came again. Today Oedidde, thinking I +was not convinced of the truth of what he had told me about +Iddeah, mentioned the affair to the lady herself in my hearing, +at which she laughed, but said he did ill to tell me of it. +However it was evident she was not much offended for they were +both very much diverted in discoursing upon the subject.</p> + +<p>I find it is not at all uncommon for brothers to have +connection with the wives of each other, particularly elder +brothers with the wives of their younger brothers, which is +generally allowed and no offence taken: but if any person not +belonging to the family endeavours at the same intimacy it is +resented as an injury. Inclination seems to be the only binding +law of marriage at Otaheite.</p> + +<p>As I purposed to get instruments on shore at Point Venus to +make observations I desired Tinah to order a house to be brought +there for me, which was done and fixed in half an hour, being +only a light shed supported by posts.</p> + +<p>Monday 24.</p> + +<p>Today I bought a turtle that was caught on the reefs. As Tinah +was going to leave me for a few days I had it dressed for his +dinner. He told me that his mother, Oberreeroah, was arrived from +the island Tethuroa, and begged that I would send for her in the +morning and take care of her till he returned, which I willingly +promised.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 25.</p> + +<p>This morning I sent a boat to Oparre, which returned in the +afternoon with Oberreeroah and two women, her servants. As she +was old and corpulent it was with difficulty that we helped her +up the ship's side. As soon as she was in the ship she sat down +on the gangway and, clasping my knees in her arms, expressed her +pleasure at seeing me by a flood of tears. Her servants then +produced three pieces of cloth which, with a large hog, some +breadfruit, plantains, and coconuts, she had brought as a +present. As she was fatigued by her journey she wished to remain +on board all night, and I directed accommodations to be prepared, +which was done with little trouble as nothing more was necessary +than a mat and some cloth spread on the deck. She had with her a +favourite cat, bred from one that had been given her by Captain +Cook. She told me all the misfortunes that had befallen her son +and friends since Captain Cook left Otaheite. All the accounts +agree in some of the cattle being now alive at the island Eimeo: +in the number they differ but that there were eight is the least +account.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 26.</p> + +<p>In the morning, Oberreeroah being desirous to go on shore, I +made her a present of several things, which she did not care to +take with her then, but requested that I would keep them safe for +her. Only Moannah and Poeeno dined with me today. They told me +that Tinah and his brother Oreepyah were not on good terms +together, and it was imagined that they would fight as soon as +the ship was gone. I had observed a coolness between them, and +had at times endeavoured to make them more cordial, but with very +little effect. Their quarrel has arisen from a disagreement +between their wives.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon a canoe from Ulietea arrived in which was an +Earee or chief of that island, who is a nephew to Oberreeroah. He +brought a sheep with him: the poor animal was infected with the +mange and in very poor condition. The climate had not as far as I +could judge altered the quality of the wool, with which he was +well covered except a part about the shoulders. I imagine this +animal to be the English ewe left by Captain Cook. The owner +assured me that there were ten sheep at Huaheine; the truth of +which I much doubted. I was surprised and rather mortified to +find that he set so little value on this as to let me have it, at +the first word, for a small adze. I sent it to be kept at +Poeeno's with the heifer.</p> + +<p>Friday 28.</p> + +<p>Tinah and his wife returned to Matavai and, from appearances +which I have no reason to mistrust, were sincerely glad to see me +again after their short absence. They brought as usual a present +of a hog and fruit. This morning there was an eclipse of the sun, +but the weather was so cloudy that I had only an opportunity of +observing the end of the eclipse, which was at 19 hours 43 +minutes 53 seconds.</p> + +<p>Saturday 29.</p> + +<p>I sent a man to shear the ewe, by which a remedy could more +easily be applied to cure the disease with which it was infected. +The garden made near the tents was not in a prosperous condition: +most of the melons and cucumbers were destroyed by insects; and +the soil being sandy was not favourable to the other seeds. I +therefore chose another spot of ground farther from the seaside +and had an assortment of seeds sown.</p> + +<p>December. Monday 1.</p> + +<p>In the night the rudder of one of the boats was stolen from +the tents. On landing in the morning neither Tinah nor any of his +family came near me, being, I was informed, afraid of my +displeasure. As the loss was not great I immediately sent to +assure them that I had no anger except against the person who +committed the theft. In consequence of this message Tinah and +some of the other chiefs came to the tents and promised that they +would exert themselves to discover the thief and get the rudder +restored. This was the first theft of any consequence that had +been committed since the tents were on shore, and my suspicions +fell chiefly on the people who were here from some of the other +islands. Tinah had just begun to build a house for himself and I +promised that our carpenters should assist him. Whydooah, the +youngest brother of Tinah, had lately been one of my constant +visitors and seemed to have left off his former custom of getting +drunk with the Ava. He was esteemed one of their best warriors; +and I was told that in the quarrel with the people of Eimeo he +killed Maheine the chief of that island.</p> + +<p>Friday 5.</p> + +<p>The weather for some time past had been very unsettled. This +afternoon the wind blew fresh from the north-west, which +occasioned the sea to break very high across the Dolphin bank; +and in the night such a heavy broken sea came into the bay that +we were obliged to batten all the hatchways down, and to keep +everybody upon deck all night though the rain came down in +torrents. The ship rolled in a most violent manner.</p> + +<p>Saturday 6.</p> + +<p>In the morning the wind increasing and, there being no +possibility of putting to sea, we struck yards and topmasts and +trusted to our anchors. The river swelled so much with the rain +that the point of land on which the tents stood became an island; +and to preserve the breadfruit plants from being endangered the +people were obliged to cut a passage for the river through a part +of the beach at a distance from the tents. The sea broke very +high on the beach; nevertheless a canoe put off and to my +surprise Tinah, his wife, and Moannah made their way good through +the surf and came on board to see me. There was no other person +in the canoe for the weather did not admit of useless passengers: +each of them had a paddle which they managed with great activity +and skill. These kind people embraced me with many tears and +expressed their apprehensions for the safety of the ship. Towards +noon however the sea abated considerably, but the wind continued +to blow strong from the north-west. At sunset Iddeah went on +shore but Tinah would remain with me the whole night.</p> + +<p>Sunday 7.</p> + +<p>The wind continued between the north and north-west but had so +much moderated that I no longer considered our situation to be +alarming. At noon Iddeah returned to the ship with a large hog +and a supply of breadfruit and coconuts; and soon after she and +Tinah left the ship, having exacted a promise from me that if the +weather was moderate I would go on shore in the morning and visit +their parents and sister who, they told me, had been much alarmed +on our account. I received a visit likewise from Poeeno and his +wife. This woman had always shown great regard for us; and now, +on our meeting, before I could be aware of it, she began beating +her head violently with a shark's tooth so that her face was +covered with blood in an instant. I put a stop to this as soon as +I could, and with the drying up of the blood her agitation +subsided. This ceremony is frequently performed upon occasions +either of joy or grief. Her husband said that if any accident +happened to the ship I should live with him and that they would +cut down trees and build me another ship.</p> + +<p>From this sample of the weather and the information of the +natives I was convinced it would not be safe to continue in +Matavai Bay much longer; and I determined to get everything ready +for sailing as speedily as I could.</p> + +<p>Monday 8.</p> + +<p>The night proved moderate and in the morning I went on shore +where I was received by Oberreeroah, and several other friends +with great affection.</p> + +<p>The plants received no injury from the bad weather having been +carefully covered from the spray of the sea: some were in a +dormant state and others were striking out young shoots. Nelson +thought that it was better to refrain a few days from taking them +on board; I therefore consented to defer it. He was of opinion +that the plants could be propagated from the roots only, and I +directed some boxes to be filled as we could stow them where no +others could be placed.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 9.</p> + +<p>This afternoon, in hauling the launch on shore to be repaired, +many of the natives assisting, one of them, a fine boy about ten +years old, was thrown down and a roller which was placed under +the boat went over him. The surgeon being ill I sent off for his +assistant. Fortunately no limb was broken nor did he receive any +material injury. The surgeon had been a long time ill, the effect +of intemperance and indolence. He had latterly scarce ever +stirred out of his cabin but was not apprehended to be in a +dangerous state; nevertheless this evening he appeared to be so +much worse than usual that it was thought necessary to remove him +to some place where he could have more air; but to no effect for +he died in an hour afterwards. This unfortunate man drank very +hard and was so averse to exercise that he never would be +prevailed on to take half a dozen turns upon deck at a time in +the course of the voyage.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 10.</p> + +<p>As I wished to bury the surgeon on shore I mentioned it to +Tinah, who said there would be no objection but that it would be +necessary to ask his father's consent first; which he undertook +to do and immediately left me for that purpose. By this +circumstance it appears that, though the eldest son of an Earee +succeeds to the title and honours of the father as soon as he is +born, yet a considerable portion of authority remains with the +father even after the son is of age. When Tinah returned I went +with him to the spot intended for the burial place, taking with +us two men to dig the grave; but on our arrival I found the +natives had already begun it. Tinah asked me if they were doing +right? "There," says he, "the sun rises and there it sets." The +idea that the grave should be east and west I imagine they learnt +from the Spaniards, as the captain of one of their ships was +buried at Oeitepeha in 1774. Certain it is they had not the +information from anybody belonging to our ship; for I believe we +should not have thought of it. The grave however was marked out +very exactly. At four in the afternoon the body was interred: the +chiefs and many of the natives came to see the ceremony and +showed great attention during the service. Some of the chiefs +were very inquisitive about what was to be done with the +surgeon's cabin on account of apparitions. They said when a man +died in Otaheite and was carried to the Tupapow that as soon as +night came he was surrounded by spirits, and if any person went +there by himself they would devour him: therefore they said that +not less than two people together should go into the surgeon's +cabin for some time. I did not endeavour to dissuade them from +this belief otherwise than by laughing and letting them know that +we had no such apprehensions.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon the effects of the deceased were disposed of +and I appointed Mr. Thomas Denman Ledward the surgeon's mate to +do duty as surgeon.</p> + +<p>Friday 12.</p> + +<p>I went in a boat to examine the harbours about Oparre and +found two formed by the reefs. The westernmost is the most +convenient for sailing in or out but is not well sheltered from a +north-west wind or sea. This harbour is called by the natives +Taowne: it is about a league and a half distant from Point Venus +and may be known by a remarkable mountain, called by the natives +Wawry, which bears south-south-east from the entrance.</p> + +<p>The easternmost harbour is called Toahroah. It is small but as +secure as a reef harbour can well be. It is about three miles +distant from Point Venus. The chief objection to this harbour is +the difficulty of getting out with the common tradewind, the +entrance being on the east side, not more than one hundred yards +wide and the depth without inconvenient for warping. On the south +side of the entrance is a Morai: the reef side is to be kept on +board and a lookout to be kept from aloft, whence the shoal water +is better discerned than from the deck.</p> + +<p>Sunday 14.</p> + +<p>This forenoon we performed divine service. Many of the +principal natives attended and behaved with great decency. Some +of the women at one time betrayed an inclination to laugh at our +general responses; but on my looking at them they appeared much +ashamed. After the service I was asked if no offering was to be +made for the Eatua to eat.</p> + +<p>The weather had been fair all the last week and at this time +appeared quite settled, so that I was under no apprehensions of +danger from continuing a little longer in Matavai bay.</p> + +<p align="center"><a name="bligh-04"></a><img alt="" src= +"images/bligh-04.jpg"><br> +<b>Sketch from recollection and anchor-bearings of the north part of Otaheite from Point Venus to Taowne Harbour.<br> +A. Bounty-Rock, where the ship struck, 9 feet water.<br> +B. Toahroah Harbour, where the ship lay.<br> +C. Tettyoorah Harbour.</b></p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a name="ch9"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 9.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>A Walk into the Country.<br> +The Peeah Roah.<br> +Prevailed on by the Kindness of the Chiefs to defer our Departure.<br> +Breadfruit Plants collected.<br> +Move the Ship to Toahroah Harbour.<br> +Fishing.<br> +Three of the Ship's Company desert.<br> +Indiscretion of our People on Shore.<br> +Instances of Jealousy.<br> +Mourning.<br> +Bull brought to Oparre by a Prophet.<br> +The Deserters recovered.<br> +Tinah proposes to visit England.</b></blockquote> + +<p>1788. December. Wednesday 17.</p> + +<p>This morning I took a walk into the country accompanied by +Nelson and my old friend Moannah. The breadth of the border of +low land before we arrived at the foot of the hills was near +three miles. This part of our journey was through a delightful +country, well covered with breadfruit and coconut-trees, and +strewed with houses in which were swarms of children. We then +proceeded along a valley, still among houses, with plantations of +yams, tarro, the cloth-plant, and their favourite root the Ava: +there were breadfruit trees on the sides of the hills which were +dwarfs in comparison of those on the low land. Our walk was very +much interrupted by a river, the course of which was so +serpentine that we had to cross it several times, being carried +over on men's shoulders.</p> + +<p>On arriving at a Morai I saw a number of the natives collected +and was informed that the priests were performing their +devotions. Sixteen men were sitting on their heels; in the front +was a pole covered with a plaited coconut branch, and before each +of the men there was a number of small pieces of the same leaf +plaited, which they call Hahyree, and each had likewise a piece +round his wrist. One who appeared to be the chief priest prayed +aloud, and was answered by all the rest together: after a few +short sentences and responses they rose and each carried an +Hahyree, which they placed at the foot of the pole and returned +to prayer: this was repeated till all the Hahyree were delivered +and then the ceremony ended. I must not forget to mention that +they had placed near the pole an offering of plantains and +breadfruit, which they left for the Eatua. They very kindly asked +us to partake of a roasted hog that had been prepared for them +whilst they were praying; but as I wished to make the most of the +morning before the sun was too high I declined their offer, and +Moannah bespoke refreshments to be ready for us when we +returned.</p> + +<p>We continued our walk up the valley, which became very narrow, +and had advanced a considerable way beyond all the houses and +plantations when we were suddenly stopped by a cascade that fell +into the river from a height of above 200 feet: the fall at this +time was not great but in the heavy rains must be considerable. +The natives look upon this as the most wonderful sight in the +island. The fall of water is the least curious part; the cliff +over which it comes is perpendicular, forming an appearance as if +supported by square pillars of stone, and with a regularity that +is surprising. Underneath is a pool eight or nine feet deep into +which the water falls; and in this place all the natives make a +point of bathing once in their lives, probably from some +religious idea.</p> + +<p>The hills here approach each other within a few yards and are +well covered with wood. As the road appeared difficult I did not +care to proceed towards the mountain. I cannot with certainty say +how far this curious precipice is from the bay, but think in the +road by which we went it cannot be less than seven miles. It is +called Peeah Roah.</p> + +<p>In our return we found a young pig prepared for us and we made +a hearty meal. We dined in the house of an old acquaintance of +Nelson's for whom he had in 1777 planted the two shaddock plants +formerly mentioned which he had brought from the Friendly +Islands. These we had the satisfaction to see were grown to fine +trees and full of fruit.</p> + +<p>In their plantations they do not take much pains except with +the Ava and the Cloth-plant, both of which they are careful to +keep clear of weeds. Many of the plantations of the cloth-plant +were fenced with stone and surrounded with a ditch. The yams and +plantains are mostly on the higher grounds. As soon as we had +finished our dinner we returned towards the ship. I was much +delighted in this walk with the number of children that I saw in +every part of the country: they are very handsome and sprightly +and full of antic tricks. They have many diversions that are +common with the boys in England such as flying kites, cats +cradle, swinging, dancing or jumping in a rope, walking upon +stilts and wrestling.</p> + +<p>Friday 19.</p> + +<p>The wind today blew fresh but continued regular from the east +and east-south-east. We had likewise much rain and a long swell +set into the bay. I had not yet determined whether, on leaving +Matavai bay, I would go to the island Eimeo or to the harbour of +Toahroah near Oparre: this uncertainty made Tinah and the rest of +my friends very anxious; and they appeared much distressed on my +desiring them this afternoon to send on board all the things +which they wished to have repaired by the forge without delay, +that what they wanted might be done before the ship left Matavai, +which I told them would be in a few days. They very earnestly +entreated I would stay one month longer. I represented this as +impossible and asked Tinah if he would not go with me to Eimeo; +but he said that notwithstanding my protection he was certain the +Eimeo people would watch for an opportunity to kill him. He +remained on board with me all night but his wife went on shore +and returned early in the morning, bringing with her some axes +and other things that were in need of repair.</p> + +<p>Saturday 20.</p> + +<p>When I went on shore I found Otow, Oberree-roah, Moannah, and +several others in great tribulation at the thoughts that we were +so soon to leave them. All the people of Matavai I saw were much +concerned at my intention of going to Eimeo, and took every +opportunity to prejudice me against the people of that island; to +which I paid very little attention as their motive was +obvious.</p> + +<p>Sunday 21.</p> + +<p>Their expressions of friendship and affection for me however I +could not disregard, as I had no doubt of their being genuine and +unaffected, and I felt my unwillingness to leave these kind +people so much increased that the next day I sent the master in +the launch to reexamine the depth of water between this bay and +Toahroah harbour. He returned in the evening and acquainted me +that he found a good bottom with not less than sixteen fathoms +depth all the way. The harbour of Toahroah appearing every way +safe I determined to get the ship there as speedily as possible, +and I immediately made my intention public, which occasioned +great rejoicing.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 24.</p> + +<p>This day we took the plants on board, being 774 pots, all in a +healthy state; for whenever any plant had an unfavourable +appearance it was replaced by another. The number of those +rejected was 302, of which not one in ten but was found to be +growing at the root.</p> + +<p>The natives reckon eight kinds of the breadfruit tree, each of +which they distinguish by a different name. 1. Patteah. 2. +Eroroo. 3. Awanna. 4. Mi-re. 5. Oree. 6. Powerro. 7. Appeere. 8. +Rowdeeah. In the first, fourth, and eighth class the leaf differs +from the rest; the fourth is more sinuated; the eighth has a +large broad leaf not at all sinuated. The difference of the fruit +is principally in the first and eighth class. In the first the +fruit is rather larger and more of an oblong form: in the eighth +it is round and not above half the size of the others. I enquired +if plants could be produced from the seed and was told they could +not but that they must be taken from the root. The plants are +best collected after wet weather, at which time the earth balls +round the roots and they are not liable to suffer by being +moved.</p> + +<p>The most common method of dividing time at Otaheite is by +moons; but they likewise make a division of the year into six +parts, each of which is distinguished by the name of the kind of +breadfruit then in season. In this division they keep a small +interval called Tawa in which they do not use the breadfruit. +This is about the end of February when the fruit is not in +perfection; but there is no part of the year in which the trees +are entirely bare.</p> + +<p>Thursday 25.</p> + +<p>At daylight we unmoored and I sent the tents in the launch to +Oparre with directions that, after landing them, the launch +should meet the ship in the entrance of Toahroah harbour to show +the safest part of the channel. At half-past ten we got the ship +under sail and ran down under top-sails: when we were near the +launch it fell calm and the ship shot past her. We immediately +let the anchor go but to our great surprise we found the ship was +aground forwards. She had run on so easy that we had not +perceived it at the time. This accident occasioned us much +trouble as we were obliged to send anchors out astern to get the +ship afloat: in doing this one of the cables swept a rock and was +not got clear again without much difficulty. When the ship was +moored Point Venus bore north 46 degrees east. The east point of +the harbour north 65 degrees east one-quarter of a mile. Our +distance from the shore half a cable's length; depth of water 8 +1/2 fathoms.</p> + +<p>Friday 26.</p> + +<p>The next morning on my landing I was welcomed by all the +principal people; I may say by the whole crowd, and congratulated +on the safety of the ship. Tinah showed me a house near the +waterside abreast the ship, which he desired I would make use of +and which was large enough for all our purposes. He and his +brother Oreepyah then desired I would stay and receive a formal +address and present which they called Otee. To this I assented +and a stool was brought for me to sit on. They then left me with +Moannah and in a short time I saw Tinah returning with about +twenty men who all made a stop at some distance, and a priest +said a short prayer to the Eatua, to which the rest made reply. A +man was then sent to me three several times, at each time +bringing me a small pig and the stem of a plantain leaf. The +first they told me was for the God of Brittannee, the next for +King George, and the last for myself. Moannah then got up and, +without being dictated to, made an oration for me; the purport of +which I understood to be that I received their offering with +thanks; that we were good people and friends; and therefore he +exhorted them to commit no thefts: he told them to bring their +pigs, coconuts, and breadfruit, and they would receive good +things in return; that we took nothing without their consent; and +finally that every man was to quit the place (the house we +occupied) at night; for if they made any visit in the dark they +would be killed. With this speech the ceremony ended.</p> + +<p>I found this a delightful situation and in every respect +convenient. The ship was perfectly sheltered by the reefs in +smooth water and close to a fine beach without the least surf. A +small river with very good water runs into the sea about the +middle of the harbour. I gave directions for the plants to be +landed and the same party to be with them as at Matavai. Tinah +fixed his dwelling close to our station.</p> + +<p>Monday 29.</p> + +<p>Some of the natives took advantage of the butcher's negligence +and stole his cleaver. I complained of this to the chiefs who +were on board and they promised that they would endeavour to +recover it; but an article so valuable as this was to the natives +I had no great expectation of seeing restored.</p> + +<p>The ship continued to be supplied by the natives as usual. +Coconuts were in such plenty that I believe not a pint of water +was drunk on board the ship in the twenty-four hours. Breadfruit +began to be scarce though we purchased without difficulty a +sufficient quantity for our consumption: there was however +another harvest approaching which they expected would be fit for +use in five or six weeks. The better kind of plantains also were +become scarce; but a kind which they call vayhee were in great +plenty. This fruit does not hang on the trees like the other +kinds but grows upon an upright stalk of considerable strength +and substance. Though this plantain is inferior in quality to +most of the others it affords great subsistence to the natives. +We received almost every day presents of fish, chiefly dolphin +and albacore, and a few small rock fish. Their fishing is mostly +in the night when they make strong lights on the reefs which +attract the fish to them. Sometimes in fine weather the canoes +are out in such numbers that the whole sea appears illuminated. +In the canoes they fish with hook and line and on the reefs they +struck the fish with a spear. Some likewise carry out small nets +which are managed by two men. In the daytime their fishing canoes +go without the reefs, sometimes to a considerable distance, where +they fish with rods and lines and catch bonetas and other fish. +Whenever there is a show of fish a fleet of canoes immediately +proceeds to sea. Their hooks being bright are used without bait +in the manner of our artificial flies. Their rods are made of +bamboo; but when there are any very large fish they make use of +an outrigger over the fore part of the canoe, about twenty-five +feet in length, which has two prongs at the extremity, to each of +which is fastened a hook and line; and when a fish takes the hook +it is raised by ropes managed by two men in the stern of the +canoe.</p> + +<p>January 1789. Thursday 1.</p> + +<p>Contrary to my expectation Tinah this afternoon brought on +board the cleaver that had been stolen. The thief had taken it to +Attahooroo, and Tinah told me, which I could easily believe, that +it was given up with reluctance.</p> + +<p>Friday 2.</p> + +<p>The next morning I offered Tinah a present of axes and other +things but, as he suspected this was meant by way of return for +getting the cleaver restored, he would not be prevailed with to +accept a single article.</p> + +<p>I had constantly the company of Tinah, his wife, and some of +his relations; but the royal children, though so near us, never +came in sight of the ship. The river separated them from the +place occupied by our people on shore and, for fear of giving +alarm or offence, I gave strict orders that no one should attempt +to go near their place of residence.</p> + +<p>Monday 5.</p> + +<p>At the relief of the watch at four o'clock this morning the +small cutter was missing. I was immediately informed of it and +mustered the ship's company, when it appeared that three men were +absent: Charles Churchill, the ship's corporal and two of the +seamen, William Musprat and John Millward, the latter of whom had +been sentinel from twelve to two in the morning. They had taken +with them eight stand of arms and ammunition; but what their plan +was, or which way they had gone, no one on board seemed to have +the least knowledge. I went on shore to the chiefs and soon +received information that the boat was at Matavai; and that the +deserters had departed in a sailing canoe for the island +Tethuroa. On this intelligence I sent the master to Matavai to +search for the small cutter, and one of the chiefs went with him; +but before they had got halfway they met the boat with five of +the natives who were bringing her back to the ship. This service +rendered me by the people of Matavai pleased me much and I +rewarded the men accordingly.</p> + +<p>I told Tinah and the other chiefs that I expected they would +get the deserters brought back; for that I was determined not to +leave Otaheite without them. They assured me that they would do +everything in their power to have them taken and it was agreed +that Oreepyah and Moannah should depart the next morning for +Tethuroa. Oreepyah enquired if they had pocket pistols "for," +said he, "though we may surprise and seize them before they can +make use of their muskets, yet if they have pistols they may do +mischief, even while they are held." I quietened these +apprehensions by assuring them that the deserters had no pistols +with them.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 6.</p> + +<p>At daylight Oreepyah and Moannah set off in two canoes for +Tethuroa, but the weather became so boisterous that they were +obliged to return in the forenoon, and I was happy to see them +get safe in as the sea ran very high without the harbour. From +the first of this month the weather and winds had been much +unsettled with a great deal of rain. Our former station at +Matavai appeared not at all safe, the sea at times breaking high +over the Dolphin bank and making a great swell in the bay. +Oreepyah and Moannah both promised me that they would sail again +as soon as the weather should be fine.</p> + +<p>Friday 9.</p> + +<p>The wind continued to blow strong at sea though in the harbour +we had at times but light breezes. Poeeno, from Matavai, came to +see me today: he said he was apprehensive that I was displeased +with him on account of our deserters having been carried to +Tethuroa by a canoe from Matavai. This he declared had been done +before he heard of it; and that the only service in his power he +had not neglected to do for me, which was the sending our boat +back. As this was really an act of friendship I received him with +great cordiality; and he assured me that there could be no doubt +from the directions Tinah had given of the deserters being +brought to the ship as soon as the weather would admit canoes to +go after them.</p> + +<p>Saturday 10.</p> + +<p>One of the officers this morning on shore inadvertently +plucked a branch from a tree called Tutuee, that bears the oil +nut, which was growing at a Morai. On entering with it into the +house occupied by our people all the natives, both men and women, +immediately went away. When I went on shore I found this branch +tied to one of the posts of the house, although the effect it had +on the natives was known. I was much displeased at this piece of +wantonness and ordered the branch to be taken away; but the +natives notwithstanding would not come near the place. They said +the house was taboo, which I understand to signify interdicted, +and that none of them might approach it till the taboo was taken +off, which could only be done by Tinah. To take anything away +from a Morai is regarded as a kind of sacrilege and, they +believe, gives great offence to the Eatua. At my request Tinah +took off the taboo, but not before the afternoon. This was +performed by an offering of a plantain leaf at the Morai, and a +prayer made to the Eatua. After this ceremony the house was +resorted to by the natives as usual.</p> + +<p>I had not yet given up the hope of obtaining the bull from +Itteah, though I had hitherto received no satisfactory answer to +the messages which Tinah had sent at my desire: I therefore spoke +to Poeeno who undertook to negotiate this business, and I +commissioned him to make very liberal offers. He left me after +dinner to return to Matavai. In the evening a messenger arrived +from him to acquaint me that, in his absence, the sheep which I +had trusted to his care had been killed by a dog; and that he had +sent the culprit, hoping that I would kill him for the offence he +had committed. This poor sheep had been so much diseased that I +could not help suspecting he died without the dog's assistance, +and that the story of the dog was invented to prevent my +attributing it to want of care. This doubt did not appear in my +answer; as for the dog I told the messenger to do with him what +he pleased.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 13.</p> + +<p>This morning, the weather being more moderate than it had been +for some days past, Oreepyah sailed with two canoes for +Tethuroa.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 14.</p> + +<p>Some business prevented Moannah from accompanying him but he +followed the next day with two other canoes. The wood that we had +got at Matavai being expended I applied to Tinah, who sent three +trees down to the waterside before night, which when cut up made +a good launch load.</p> + +<p>I saw two instances of jealousy today one of which had nearly +produced fatal consequences. A man was detected with a married +woman by the husband, who stabbed him in the belly with a knife: +fortunately the intestines escaped and the wound did not prove +dangerous. The other instance was a girl, who had constantly +lived with my coxswain, beating another girl that she discovered +to have been too intimate with him.</p> + +<p>Friday 16.</p> + +<p>In walking today with Tinah near a tupapow I was surprised by +a sudden outcry of grief. As I expressed a desire to see the +distressed person Tinah took me to the place where we found a +number of women, one of whom was the mother of a young female +child that lay dead. On seeing us their mourning not only +immediately ceased, but to my astonishment they all burst into an +immoderate fit of laughter, and while we remained appeared much +diverted with our visit. I told Tinah the woman had no sorrow for +her child otherwise her grief would not have so easily subsided; +on which he jocosely told her to cry again: they did not however +resume their mourning in our presence. This strange behaviour +would incline us to think them hardhearted and unfeeling, did we +not know that they are fond parents and in general very +affectionate: it is therefore to be ascribed to their extreme +levity of disposition; and it is probable that death does not +appear to them with so many terrors as it does to people of a +more serious cast.</p> + +<p>Sunday 18.</p> + +<p>I received a message from Poeeno to acquaint me that he had +been successful in his negotiation for the bull, which he had +driven part of the way by land, but could not get farther on +account of the rivers and therefore desired a boat should be sent +for him. I accordingly ordered the launch to be got ready and at +two o'clock the next morning Mr. Fryer, the master, set off in +her.</p> + +<p>Monday 19.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon the launch returned with the bull and my +friend Poeeno. For the night I directed that the bull should +remain at Oparre and the next day he was taken to the cow at +Matavai.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 21.</p> + +<p>Today Poeeno brought to me the person from whom he had the +bull to receive the stipulated payment, which was one of every +article of traffic that I had in my possession. This man, whose +name was Oweevee, they told me was inspired by a divine spirit; +and that in all matters of consequence he was consulted, for that +he conversed with the Eatua. It was, they said, the Eatua that +ordered him to demand the bull from Tinah, which not to have +complied with would have been the height of impiety. I +endeavoured to convince them of the roguery of this man, thinking +I had a fair argument to prove it by his selling that which the +Eatua had ordered him to keep; but here I was easily defeated for +it seems the Eatua told him to sell me the beast. This being the +case I said I would not give the animals to any person; that they +were now mine and that I would leave them under the protection of +Poeeno and Tinah who I hoped would take care of them for me till +I returned. They both entered into my views and promised the +animals should be attended to, and told me that, while they were +considered as my property, no one would attempt to take them +away.</p> + +<p>Thursday 22.</p> + +<p>This afternoon I received a message from Teppahoo to inform me +that our deserters had passed this harbour and were at Tettaha, +about five miles distant. I ordered the cutter to be got ready, +and a little before sunset left the ship, taking Oedidee with me. +By his advice I landed at some distance from the place where the +deserters were but, thinking it necessary to have the boat within +call, and Oedidee assuring me that there was safe landing farther +on, I directed the boat to proceed along shore whilst Oedidee and +I walked along the beach. The night was very dark and windy and +the shore being rocky I soon lost sight of the boat. A few of the +natives had joined us in our walk and from their manner I had +reason to suspect them of a design to close upon us, with an +intention no doubt to plunder: I was provided with pocket-pistols +and on producing one they left us. Oedidee was so much alarmed +that I could scarce prevail on him to proceed. When we arrived at +Teppahoo's house we were very kindly received by him and his +wife. The cutter was arrived but there being a very high surf she +could not come within a hundred yards of the shore.</p> + +<p>The deserters I was informed were in a house close to us, and +I imagined there would be no great difficulty in securing them +with the assistance of the natives. They had however heard of my +arrival; and when I was near the house they came out without +their arms and delivered themselves up. I sent directions off to +the boat for one of my people to come on shore and for the boat +to return to the place where I had landed. My next business was +to secure the arms, which I delivered to Teppahoo to take charge +of for the night. One musket and two bayonets were missing, which +they said were lost by the canoe in which they came from Tethuroa +having overset. I then took leave of Teppahoo who presented us +with a plentiful supply of provisions, and we proceeded with the +deserters towards the boat but, as the wind had increased and it +rained hard, I determined to remain on shore till the morning; +and having found shelter for the people we passed the remainder +of the night without accident. At daylight I sent for the arms +and we returned to the ship.</p> + +<p>Friday 23.</p> + +<p>I learnt from the deserters that at Tethuroa they had seen +Oreepyah and Moannah, who had made an attempt to secure them. +They said it was their intention to have returned to the ship; +and it is probable that they were so much harassed by the natives +watching for an opportunity to surprise them that they might wish +to have the merit of returning of their own accord, to avoid the +disgrace of being seized and brought back. At the time they +delivered themselves up to me it was not in their power to have +made resistance, their ammunition having been spoiled by the +wet.</p> + +<p>In consequence of my having been kept all night from the ship +by the tempestuous weather the timekeeper went down at 10 hours 5 +minutes 36 seconds. Its rate previous to this was 1 second, 7 +losing in 24 hours, and its error from the mean time at Greenwich +was 7 minutes 29 seconds, 2 too slow. I set it going again by a +common watch, corrected by observations, and endeavoured to make +the error the same as if it had not stopped; but being over +cautious made me tedious in setting it in motion, and increased +the error from mean time at Greenwich. The rate of going I did +not find to have altered.</p> + +<p>At dinner Tinah congratulated me on having recovered my men, +but expressed some concern that they had not been brought by +Oreepyah and Moannah, lest I should imagine they had not done +everything in their power. To this I replied that I was perfectly +satisfied of their good intentions to serve me, and that I +considered myself under great obligations to them for the trouble +they had been at on my account. I learnt afterwards that they had +actually seized and bound the deserters but had been prevailed +upon, by fair promises of their returning peaceably to the ship, +to let them loose: the deserters however, finding an opportunity +to get possession of their arms, again set the natives at +defiance.</p> + +<p>Friday 30.</p> + +<p>This afternoon I punished one of the seamen, Isaac Martin, +with nineteen lashes for striking an Indian. This was a +transgression of so serious a nature and such a direct violation +of my orders that I would on no account be prevailed on to +forgive it, though great intercession was made by some of the +chiefs.</p> + +<p>Oreepyah and Moannah were not yet returned from Tethuroa. This +place is resorted to by the principal people of this part of +Otaheite at particular seasons when fish are in great plenty +there. It was described to me to be a group of small keys +surrounded by a reef: their produce is chiefly coconuts and +plantains. During the season breadfruit and other provisions are +daily carried over from Otaheite. Not less than a hundred sail of +canoes were at Tethuroa when our deserters were there.</p> + +<p>Teppahoo and his wife were become my constant visitors: he had +for some time past been ill, and had made Oparre his place of +residence for the benefit of our surgeon's advice and assistance. +At this time he complained of a hoarseness and sore throat. Mr. +Ledward, on examining him, discovered there had been two holes in +the roof of his mouth which, though healed, had the appearance of +having been large: the adjacent parts appeared sound, yet the +surgeon was of opinion that they were cancerous and would in the +end occasion his death.</p> + +<p>Saturday 31.</p> + +<p>This morning I ordered all the chests to be taken on shore, +and the inside of the ship to be washed with boiling water to +kill the cockroaches. We were constantly obliged to be at great +pains to keep the ship clear of vermin on account of the plants. +By the help of traps and good cats we were freed from rats and +mice. When I was at Otaheite with Captain Cook there were great +numbers of rats about all the houses, and so tame that they +flocked round the people at their meals for the offals which were +commonly thrown to them; but at this time we scarce ever saw a +rat which must be attributed to the industry of a breed of cats +left here by European ships.</p> + +<p>After breakfast I walked with Tinah to Matavai to see the +cattle and the gardens. Tinah had already taken so large a dose +of the Ava that he was perfectly stupefied. Iddeah however was +with us, and she is one of the most intelligent persons I met +with at Otaheite. We went first to Poeeno's house and saw the +bull and cow together in a very fine pasture. I was informed that +the cow had taken the bull; so that if no untoward accident +happens there is a fair chance of the breed being established. In +the garden near Poeeno's house many things had failed. The Indian +corn was in a fine state and I have no doubt but they will +cultivate it all over the country. A fig-tree was in a very +thriving way, as were two vines, a pineapple plant, and some +slips of a shaddock-tree. From this place we walked to the garden +at Point Venus, but I had the mortification to find almost +everything there destroyed by the hogs. Some underground peas and +Indian corn had escaped, and likewise the caliloo green and ocra +of Jamaica.</p> + +<p>We returned to the ship, and after dinner I was not a little +surprised to hear Tinah seriously propose that he and his wife +should go with me to England. He said he would only take two +servants; that he much wished to see King George who he was sure +would be glad to see him. Tinah and many of his countrymen were +become extremely eager to get a knowledge of other countries, and +were continually enquiring about the situations of the islands +which we told them of in these seas. To quiet his importunity I +was obliged to promise that I would ask the king's permission to +carry them to England if I came again; that then I should be in a +larger ship an could have accommodations properly fitted up. I +was sorry to find that Tinah was apprehensive he should be +attacked by his enemies as soon as our ship left Otaheite, and +that if they joined they would be too powerful for him. The +illness of Teppahoo, with whom he was on good terms, gave him +much uneasiness, Teppahoo's wife being a sister of Otow's and +aunt to Tinah. They have no children as has been before related, +and if Teppahoo were to die he would be succeeded as Earee of the +district of Tettaha by his brother who is an enemy to Tinah. I +have on every occasion endeavoured to make the principal people +believe that we should return again to Otaheite and that we +should revenge any injury done in our absence to the people of +Matavai and Oparre.</p> + +<p>The wife of Oedidee is likewise an aunt to Tinah, and sister +to Otow. His native place is Ulietea, where he has some property, +but which I imagine is not of such consequence to him as the +countenance of the chiefs with whom he is connected at +Otaheite.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a name="ch10"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 10.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>The Ship's Cable cut in the Night.<br> +Coolness with the Chiefs on that Account.<br> +Visit to an old Lady.<br> +Disturbance at a Heiva.<br> +Tinah's Hospitality.<br> +A Thief taken and punished.<br> +Preparations for sailing.</b></blockquote> + +<p>1789. February. Tuesday 3.</p> + +<p>I was present this afternoon at a wrestling match where a +young man, by an unlucky fall, put his arm out of joint at the +elbow: three stout men immediately took hold of him and, two of +them fixing their feet against his ribs, replaced it. I had sent +for our surgeon but before he arrived all was well, except a +small swelling of the muscles in consequence of the strain. I +enquired what they would have done if the bone had been broken +and, to show me their practice, they got a number of sticks and +placed round a man's arm, which they bound with cord. That they +have considerable skill in surgery is not to be doubted. I have +before mentioned an instance of an amputated arm being perfectly +healed and which had every appearance of having been treated with +great propriety.</p> + +<p>The part of the beach nearest the ship was become the general +place of resort towards the close of the day. An hour before +sunset the inhabitants began to collect, and here they amused +themselves with exercising the lance, dancing, and various kinds +of merriment, till nearly dark, when they retired to their homes. +Of this cheerful scene we were spectators and partakers every +fine evening.</p> + +<p>Friday 6.</p> + +<p>An occurrence happened today that gave me great concern, not +only on account of the danger with which the ship had been +threatened, but as it tended greatly to diminish the confidence +and good understanding which had hitherto been constantly +preserved between us and the natives. The wind had blown fresh in +the night, and at daylight we discovered that the cable by which +the ship rode had been cut near the water's edge in such a manner +that only one strand remained whole. While we were securing the +ship Tinah came on board. I could not but believe he was +perfectly innocent of the transaction; nevertheless I spoke to +him in a very peremptory manner, and insisted upon his +discovering and bringing to me the offender. I was wholly at a +loss how to account for this malicious act. My suspicions fell +chiefly, I may say wholly, on the strangers that came to us from +other parts of the island; for we had on every occasion received +such unreserved and unaffected marks of goodwill from the people +of Matavai and Oparre that in my own mind I entirely acquitted +them. The anger which I expressed however created so much alarm +that old Otow and his wife (the father and mother of Tinah) +immediately quitted Oparre, and retired to the mountains in the +midst of heavy rain, as did Teppahoo and his family. Tinah and +Iddeah remained and expostulated with me on the unreasonableness +of my anger against them. He said that he would exert his utmost +endeavours to discover the guilty person, but it might possibly +not be in his power to get him delivered up, which would be the +case if he was either of Tiarraboo, Attahooroo, or of the island +Eimeo. That the attempt might have been made as much out of +enmity to the people of Matavai and Oparre as to me, everyone +knowing the regard I had for them, and that I had declared I +would protect them against their enemies. All this I was inclined +to believe, but I did not think proper to appear perfectly +satisfied lest Tinah, who was naturally very indolent, should be +remiss in his endeavours to detect the offender. To guard as much +as possible against future attempts of this kind I directed a +stage to be built on the forecastle so that the cables should be +more directly under the eye of the sentinel; and I likewise gave +orders that one of the midshipman should keep watch forward.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon Oreepyah returned from Tethuroa. He told me +that Moannah and himself had narrowly escaped being lost in the +bad weather and that Moannah had been obliged to take shelter at +Eimeo. Several canoes had been lost lately in their passage to or +from Tethuroa. The oversetting of their canoes is not the only +risk they have to encounter, but is productive of another danger +more dreadful; for at such times many become a prey to the sharks +which are very numerous in these seas. I was informed likewise +that they were sometimes attacked by a fish which by their +description I imagine to be the barracoota, as they attribute to +it the same propensity.</p> + +<p>Saturday passed without my seeing anything of Tinah the whole +day.</p> + +<p>Sunday 8.</p> + +<p>The next morning he and Iddeah came to me and assured me that +they had made the strictest enquiries concerning the injury +intended us but had not been able to discover any circumstance +which could lead them to suspect who were concerned in it. This +was not at all satisfactory and I behaved towards them with great +coolness, at which they were much distressed, and Iddeah at +length gave vent to her sorrow by tears. I could no longer keep +up the appearance of mistrusting them, but I earnestly +recommended to them, as they valued the King of England's +friendship, that they would exert their utmost endeavours to find +out the offenders, which they faithfully promised. Our +reconciliation accordingly took place and messengers were sent to +acquaint Otow and Teppahoo, and to invite them to return.</p> + +<p>It has since occurred to me that this attempt to cut the ship +adrift was most probably the act of some of our own people; whose +purpose of remaining at Otaheite might have been effectually +answered without danger if the ship had been driven on shore. At +the time I entertained not the least thought of this kind, nor +did the possibility of it enter into my ideas, having no +suspicion that so general an inclination or so strong an +attachment to these islands could prevail among my people as to +induce them to abandon every prospect of returning to their +native country.</p> + +<p>A messenger came to me this afternoon from the Earee of +Tiarrabou, the south-east division of Otaheite, with an +invitation for me to visit him. I excused myself on account of +the distance and, at Tinah's request, sent back by the messenger +a handsome present which I hope Tinah will get the credit of. I +observed with much satisfaction that a great part of what Tinah +had received from me he had distributed; to some out of +friendship and esteem, and to others from motives of political +civility.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 10.</p> + +<p>Teppahoo and his family left us today to go to Tettaha, where +a grand heiva was to be performed, at which their presence was +required.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 11.</p> + +<p>A small party of heiva people passed through Oparre this +morning in their way to Tettaha, where they were going by +appointment. They had the civility to send me word that if I +chose they would stay to perform a short heiva before me; and I +immediately attended. It began by a dance of two young girls to +the music of drums and flutes which lasted no long time; at the +conclusion they suddenly dropped all their dress, which was left +as a present for me, and went off without my seeing them any +more. After this the men danced: their performance was more +indecent than any I had before seen, but was not the less +applauded on that account by the natives, who seemed much +delighted.</p> + +<p>After this entertainment I went with Tinah and Iddeah to pay a +visit to an old lady named Wanowoora, widow to Towah the late +Earee of Tettaha, who conducted the expedition against Eimeo when +Captain Cook was here in 1777. The old lady had just landed and +we found her sitting on the beach by the head of her canoe. With +Tinah was a priest and three men, who carried a young dog, a +fowl, and two young plantain boughs: these were intended for the +offering, or present, called Otee. Tinah and his party seated +themselves at about ten yards distance from Wanowoora and were +addressed by her in short sentences for a few minutes, and +received her Otee, which was exactly the same as his. Tinah's +priest in return made a short prayer and his offering was +presented to the old lady. Tinah then rose and went to her, and +embraced her in a very affectionate manner; and she returned his +kindness with tears and many expressions which I could not +understand. Soon after he conducted her to a shed and we remained +with her till it was time to go on board to dinner. I invited her +to be of the party but she excused herself on account of age and +infirmity. Tinah gave directions for her and her attendants to be +supplied with whatever they had occasion for, and we went off to +the ship.</p> + +<p>Friday 13.</p> + +<p>This forenoon Tinah sent to inform me that many strangers were +arrived from all parts to be present at a grand heiva which he +had prepared in compliment to me. I accordingly went on shore and +found a great crowd of people collected together. A ring was made +at a little distance from our post, and Tinah and several other +chiefs came to meet me. When we were all seated the heiva began +by women dancing; after which a present of cloth and a tawme or +breastplate was laid before me. This ceremony being over the men +began to wrestle and regularity was no longer preserved. Old Otow +came to me and desired I would help to put a stop to the +wrestling as the people came from different districts, some of +which were ill disposed towards others. What Otow had apprehended +was not without reason for in an instant the whole was tumult: +every man took to his arms and, as I found my single interference +could be of no service, I retired to our post and ordered all my +people there under arms. At the time the disturbance began Tinah +and Iddeah were absent: their first care was for me, and Iddeah +came to see if I was safe at the post. She had a double covering +of cloth round her and her waist was girded with a large rope. I +desired her to stay under my protection: this she would not +consent to but said she would return as soon as all was over; and +away she went.</p> + +<p>I immediately gave orders for two guns to be fired from the +ship without shot, which had a good effect: and as no chief was +concerned in the tumult but, on the contrary, all of them exerted +their influence to prevent mischief, everything was soon quiet +and Tinah and Iddeah returned to let me know that all was +settled. They went on board with some other chiefs and dined with +me.</p> + +<p>After dinner I went on shore with Tinah and his friends, and I +found three large hogs dressed, and a quantity of breadfruit +which he had ordered to be prepared before he went on board, and +now desired I would present them to the different parties that +had come to see the entertainment: one to the chief people of +Attahooroo, one to the Arreoys, and a third to the performers of +the heiva. I presented them according to his directions and they +were received with thankfulness and pleasure. This I looked upon +as very handsomely done on the part of Tinah, and I was glad to +see that it was regarded in the same light by his guests. These +instances of liberality make full amends for the little slips +which I have formerly noticed in Tinah. At this time a day seldom +passed that he did not give proofs of his hospitality by +entertaining the principal people that came from different parts +of the island to visit him, or to see the ship. Some of the +chiefs he commonly invited to dine on board, and made provision +for others on shore. Scarce any person of consequence went away +without receiving some present from him. This I encouraged and +was glad it was in my power to assist him. But besides the +political motives that I have alluded to it would be unjust to +Tinah not to acknowledge that his disposition seemed improved: he +was more open and unreserved in his manners than formerly, and +his hospitality was natural and without ostentation.</p> + +<p>Monday 16.</p> + +<p>I was present this afternoon at a wrestling match by women. +The manner of challenging and method of attack was exactly the +same as among the men. The only difference that I could observe +was not in favour of the softer sex; for in these contests they +showed less temper and more animosity than I could have imagined +them capable of. The women, I was told, not only wrestle with +each other but sometimes with the men; of this I have never seen +an instance and imagine it can happen but seldom, as the women in +general are small and by no means masculine. Iddeah is said to be +very famous at this exercise.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 17.</p> + +<p>I walked with Tinah towards the hills to see his country +residence which was at a very neat house, pleasantly situated and +surrounded with plantations. From this place we saw the island +Tethuroa. The next morning I went to Matavai to look after the +Indian corn which I judged would be full ripe for gathering; but +on my arrival I found that the natives had been beforehand with +me, the whole being taken away. This I was not at all sorry for +as it shows that they value it too much to neglect cultivating +it.</p> + +<p>Monday 23.</p> + +<p>Iddeah sent on board for our dinners today a very fine tarro +pudding; and Tinah brought a bunch of bananas that weighed 81 +pounds, on which were 286 fine fruit: ten had broken off in the +carriage. The tarro pudding is excellent eating and easily made: +I shall describe this piece of cookery as the knowledge of it may +be useful in the West Indies. The tarro being cleared of the +outside skin is grated down, and made up in rolls of about half a +pound each, which they cover neatly with leaves and bake for near +half an hour. An equal quantity of ripe coconut meat is likewise +grated, from which through a strainer the rich milky juice is +expressed. This juice is heated by putting smooth hot stones in +the vessel that contains it, and the tarro is then mixed with it +and kept constantly stirring to prevent burning till it is ready, +which is known by the coconut juice turning to a clear oil.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 25.</p> + +<p>Iddeah was very uneasy today on account of her youngest child +being ill. She would not accept of assistance from our surgeon +but said she had sent to Tettaha for a man who she expected would +come and tell her what to do. These physical people are called +tata rapaow.</p> + +<p>Thursday 26.</p> + +<p>This morning a man died of a consumption about two miles from +our post. I was informed of it by Mr. Peckover, the gunner, who I +had desired to look out for such a circumstance. I therefore went +accompanied by Iddeah in hopes of seeing the funeral ceremony; +but before we arrived the body was removed to the Toopapow. It +lay bare except a piece of cloth round the loins and another +round the neck: the eyes were closed: the hands were placed, one +over the pit of the stomach and the other upon his breast. On a +finger of each hand was a ring made of plaited fibres of the +coconut-tree, with a small bunch of red feathers. Under the +Toopapow a hole was dug, in which at the end of a month the +corpse was to be buried. The deceased was of the lower class; the +Toopapow however was neat, and offerings of coconuts and plaited +leaves lay on the ground.</p> + +<p>The dead are sometimes brought to the Toopapow in wood +coffins, which are not shaped like ours but are simply a long +box. This custom Iddeah informed me they learnt from the +Europeans, and is not very common, as making plank is a work of +great labour.</p> + +<p>March. Monday 2.</p> + +<p>When I landed this morning I found the inhabitants that lived +near to us had left their houses and retired towards the +mountains; and was informed that in the night a water cask, part +of an azimuth compass, and Mr. Peckover's bedding, had been +stolen from the post on shore; the knowledge of which had caused +a general alarm. I sent a message to complain of this theft to +Tinah who did not come near me. About two hours elapsed, during +which time I went on board to breakfast and returned when I saw +Tinah and Oreepyah with a number of people at a house at some +distance; and soon after they all marched to the eastward, +passing close by our post. Oedidee, who was with me, told me that +they had intelligence of the thief, and were gone in quest of +him: and in less than an hour news was brought that they had +taken him. Shortly after the whole party appeared with the +water-cask and compass. Tinah had hold of the thief by the arm +and, showing him to me, desired that I would kill him. The +bedding, he said, he had not heard of, but would go in search of +it. I applauded him for the pains he had taken in this business, +and explained with some success the injustice of stealing from +us: that if any of our people committed the least offence against +them it did not pass unnoticed; and that friendship required on +their part that those who injured us should not be protected by +them. Tinah stopped me from saying more by embracing me and the +whole crowd cried out Tyo myty (i.e. good friend). Tinah then +left me to enquire after the bedding, and I sent the offender on +board, whom I punished with a severe flogging. I was glad to find +this man was not of Oparre or Matavai.</p> + +<p>The fine fruit called Avee was just coming into season: it was +likewise in season at the time of our arrival in October. The +breadfruit trees I have no doubt bear all the year round: we have +seen a scarcity of breadfruit but have never been wholly without +it. Some fern-root was shown to me which in scarce seasons is +used by the natives as bread. It bears a long even-edged leaf +about an inch wide; the taste somewhat resembled that of a yam. I +was informed by our people that in their walks they saw in many +places patches of Indian corn just making their appearance +through the ground. This convinces me that the corn taken from +Matavai could not have been better disposed of.</p> + +<p>Goats are frequently offered for sale, but I rather +discouraged the buying of them for fear of injuring the breed. +The natives will not eat them, neither will they taste the milk, +and ask with some appearance of disgust why we do not milk the +sows? I endeavoured to prevail on Tinah and Iddeah to eat the +goats milk by mixing it with fruit, but they would only try one +spoonful.</p> + +<p>We had begun to make preparations for sailing, and Tinah +supplied us with a sufficient stock of wood by ordering trees to +be brought down from the country. He had frequently expressed a +wish that I would leave some firearms and ammunition with him, as +he expected to be attacked after the ship sailed, and perhaps +chiefly on account of our partiality to him: I therefore thought +it but reasonable to attend to his request, and I was the more +readily prevailed on as he said his intentions were to act only +on the defensive. This indeed seems most suited to his +disposition, which is neither active nor enterprising. If Tinah +had spirit in proportion to his size and strength he would +probably be the greatest warrior in Otaheite: but courage is not +the most conspicuous of his virtues. When I promised to leave +with him a pair of pistols, which they prefer to muskets, he told +me that Iddeah would fight with one and Oedidee with the other. +Iddeah has learnt to load and fire a musket with great dexterity +and Oedidee is an excellent marksman. It is not common for women +in this country to go to war, but Iddeah is a very resolute +woman, of a large make, and has great bodily strength.</p> + +<p>Friday 6.</p> + +<p>I sent Mr. Fryer the master to sound Taowne harbour. The +knowledge that we intended shortly to sail having spread among +the natives a great many broken iron tools were brought from all +parts of the island to be repaired at our forge; and this morning +a messenger arrived from Waheatua, the Earee of Tiarraboo, with +several pieces of Spanish iron which he desired to have made into +small adzes. This request was of course complied with.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a name="ch11"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 11.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>Arrival of an Arreoy Woman from Tethuroa.<br> +A Present delivered by Tinah for his Majesty.<br> +Other Occurrences to the Time of the Ship's Departure from Otaheite.</b></blockquote> + +<p>1789. March.</p> + +<p>From the 5th to the 14th of this month the wind blew +constantly from between the north-west and south-west with a +great deal of rain. This was the longest continuance of westerly +winds without interruption that we experienced. On the 13th +several canoes arrived here and at Matavai from Tethuroa: in +these were a large tribe of Arreoys, and among them Huheine +Moyere, the wife of Oreepyah, who is an Arreoy woman, and +remained at Tethuroa after Oreepyah came away. On her arrival a +ceremony was performed called Hooepippee, which seemed to be +designed as a public visit to all their friends, who are +collected on the occasion. In this ceremony there was nothing +remarkable: the Arreoy men took their opportunity to plunder the +women who were near them, and Iddeah made a present of some cloth +to Huheine Moyere, and a baked hog to the Arreoys.</p> + +<p>Friday 13.</p> + +<p>After this ceremony a present was produced from many of the +principal people for young Otoo, the Earee Rahie, which was +received by Iddeah, Tinah being absent. This present consisted of +five hogs, and forty-eight baskets filled with breadfruit, +coconuts, tarro, and different kinds of puddings. The baskets +were decorated with slips of cloth, stained with variety of +colours and carried by 24 men, each of whom had a pole on his +shoulder, at each end of which was a basket.</p> + +<p>I have seldom spoken of Otoo who was too young to have any +share in the management of affairs, and with whom we were not +permitted to have any intercourse, except speaking to him now and +then across a river; at which times I did not neglect to send the +children some little presents, so that they always rejoiced to +see me. I might have been admitted to a nearer acquaintance if I +would have gone with my shoulders uncovered, as his parents did, +but this I declined. The children do not all live under the same +roof, the two sisters eating and sleeping in a separate house, +though at other times they are generally together.</p> + +<p>The island Tethuroa may very properly be compared to some of +our watering-places in England, producing a similar effect upon +those who visit it. Many who went there covered with scurf +returned plump and fair, and scarce like the same people. This +alteration for the better is in a great measure to be attributed +to the discontinuance of the Ava, which Tethuroa does not +produce: the coconut trees, likewise, which supply them with +their only beverage, growing on low sandy keys and having their +roots below the level of the sea may probably have qualities +different from the coconuts of Otaheite which, with a plenty of +fish, that at other times they are not accustomed to, must no +doubt contribute to the amendment described.</p> + +<p>Saturday 14.</p> + +<p>I was visited today by a very old man, an uncle to Tupia, the +person who went from these islands in the Endeavour in the year +1769, and who died at Batavia. He appeared to be near 70 years +old and was treated with much respect by the natives. He made +several enquiries concerning his nephew and requested that when I +came again I would bring his hair. At the time that Tinah +mentioned to me his desire of visiting England I asked what +account I could give to his friends if he should not live to +return; to which he replied that I must cut off his hair and +carry it to them and they would be perfectly satisfied.</p> + +<p>Monday 16.</p> + +<p>On the 16th I was informed that a stop was put to the sale of +hogs in the district of Tettaha. Teppahoo, the Earee of that +district, told me that they had very few hogs left there, and +that it was necessary for a certain time to prohibit every person +from killing or selling, that they might have time to breed. I +did not think it reasonable to solicit any indulgence on this +head: my friends at Matavai and Oparre promised to supply us as +long as we remained here, though we had considerably thinned +their stock. After our departure the same restriction was to take +place in these districts, and it being delayed on our account +certainly deserves to be regarded among their acts of friendship +towards us.</p> + +<p>As it was generally known that we were preparing to sail a +number of the natives from other parts of the island were +constantly with us, and petty thefts were committed whenever the +negligence of our people afforded an opportunity: but no attempt +of any consequence was made.</p> + +<p>Thursday 19.</p> + +<p>This evening Mr. Samwel my clerk returned from an excursion to +the mountains, having been two days absent. He described the +hills to be well clothed with wood, except the tops of the higher +mountains which only produced bushes and fern. The birds he saw +were blue parakeets and green doves, except one which he found +burrowing in the ground and brought to me. This bird was about +the size of a pigeon, and proved to be a white-bellied petrel of +the same kind as those seen in high latitudes, which are called +shearwaters. He likewise brought a branch of a plant like the New +Zealand tea-plant, and which at Van Diemen's land we had made use +of for brooms. From the hills he saw the islands Maitea and +Huaheine, which are situated nearly in opposite directions from +Otaheite and are 70 leagues distant from each other.</p> + +<p>Friday 27.</p> + +<p>For some days past Tinah had been busied in getting two +parais, or mourning-dresses, made, which he intended as a present +to King George. Being finished they were this morning hung up in +his house as a public exhibition, and a long prayer made on the +occasion, the substance of which was that the King of England +might forever remain his friend and not forget him. When he +presented the parais for me to take on board he could not refrain +from shedding tears. During the short remainder of our stay here +there appeared among the natives an evident degree of sorrow that +we were so soon to leave them, which they showed by unusual +kindness and attention.</p> + +<p>We began this afternoon to remove the plants to the ship. They +were in excellent order: the roots had appeared through the +bottom of the pots and would have shot into the ground if care +had not been taken to prevent it.</p> + +<p>The weather was considerably altered for the better and the +tradewind appeared settled. The rainy and bad season of the year +may be reckoned to begin towards the end of November and to +continue till near the end of March. During this time the winds +are variable and often westerly, though we seldom found them to +blow strong in that direction. We likewise experienced frequent +intervals of fine weather; but during these months so open a road +as Matavai bay is not a safe anchoring-place for ships that +intend remaining any length of time at Otaheite.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 31.</p> + +<p>Today all the plants were on board, being in 774 pots, 39 +tubs, and 24 boxes. The number of breadfruit plants were 1015, +besides which we had collected a number of other plants. The +avee, which is one of the finest-flavoured fruits in the world. +The ayyah, which is a fruit not so rich but of a fine flavour and +very refreshing. The rattah, not much unlike a chestnut, which +grows on a large tree in great quantities: they are singly in +large pods from one to two inches broad, and may be eaten raw or +boiled in the same manner as Windsor beans, and so dressed are +equally good. The oraiah, which is a very superior kind of +plantain. All these I was particularly recommended to collect by +my worthy friend, Sir Joseph Banks. I had also taken on board +some plants of the ettow and matte, with which the natives here +make a beautiful red colour; and a root called peeah, of which +they make an excellent pudding.</p> + +<p>I now made my last presents to several of my friends with whom +I had been most intimate, particularly to Teppahoo. Several +people expressed great desire to go with us to England. Oedidee, +who was always very much attached to us, said he considered it as +his right, having formerly left his native place to sail with +Captain Cook. Scarce any man belonging to the ship was without a +tyo, who brought to him presents, chiefly of provisions for a sea +store.</p> + +<p>April. Friday 3.</p> + +<p>Tinah and his wife, with his parents, brothers, and sister, +dined with me today and, as I meant to sail early the next +morning, they all remained on board for the night. The ship was +crowded the whole day with the natives, and we were loaded with +coconuts, plantains, breadfruit, hogs, and goats. In the evening +there was no dancing or mirth on the beach such as we had been +accustomed to, but all was silent.</p> + +<p>Saturday 4.</p> + +<p>At daylight we unmoored: the stock of the best bower anchor +was so much eaten by the worms that it broke in stowing the +anchor: the small bower had an iron stock, and in these voyages +it is very necessary that ships should be provided with iron +anchor stocks. At half-past six there being no wind we weighed +and, with our boats and two sweeps, towed the ship out of the +harbour. Soon after the sea breeze came, and we stood off towards +the sea.</p> + +<p>The outlet of Toahroah harbour being narrow I could permit +only a few of the natives to be on board: many others however +attended in canoes till the breeze came, when I was obliged to +leave them. We stood off and on almost all the remainder of the +day. Tinah and Iddeah pressed me very strongly to anchor in +Matavai bay and stay one night longer but, as I had already taken +leave of most of my friends, I thought it better to keep to my +intention of sailing. After dinner I ordered the presents which I +had preserved for Tinah and his wife to be put in one of the +ship's boats, and as I had promised him firearms I gave him two +muskets, a pair of pistols, and a good stock of ammunition. I +then represented to them the necessity of their going away, that +the boat might return to the ship before it was dark, on which +they took a most affectionate leave of me and went into the boat. +One of their expressions at parting was "Yourah no t' Eatua tee +eveerah." "May the Eatua protect you, for ever and ever."</p> + +<p>All the time we remained at Otaheite the picture of Captain +Cook, at the desire of Tinah, was kept on board the ship. On +delivering it to him I wrote on the back the time of the ship's +arrival and departure, with an account of the number of plants on +board.</p> + +<p>Tinah had desired that I would salute him at his departure +with the great guns, which I could not comply with for fear of +disturbing the plants; but as a parting token of our regard we +manned ship with all hands and gave him three cheers. At sunset +the boat returned and we made sail, bidding farewell to Otaheite +where for twenty-three weeks we had been treated with the utmost +affection and regard, and which seemed to increase in proportion +to our stay. That we were not insensible to their kindness the +events which followed more than sufficiently proves: for to the +friendly and endearing behaviour of these people may be ascribed +the motives for that event which effected the ruin of an +expedition that there was every reason to hope would have been +completed in the most fortunate manner.</p> + +<p>To enter into a description of the island or its inhabitants I +look upon as superfluous. From the accounts of former voyages and +the facts which I have related the character of the people will +appear in as true a light as by any description in my power to +give. The length of time that we remained at Otaheite, with the +advantage of having been there before, gave me opportunities of +making perhaps a more perfect vocabulary of the language than has +yet appeared; but I have chosen to defer it for the present as +there is a probability that I may hereafter be better qualified +for such a task.</p> + +<p>We left Otaheite with only two patients in the venereal list, +which shows that the disease has not gained ground. The natives +say that it is of little consequence, and we saw several +instances of people that had been infected who, after absenting +themselves for 15 or 20 days, made their appearance again without +any visible symptom remaining of the disease. Their method of +cure I am unacquainted with; but their customary diet and mode of +living must contribute towards it. We saw a great many people +however with scrofulous habits and bad sores: these they denied +to be produced from any venereal cause; and our surgeon was of +the same opinion.</p> + +<p>The result of the mean of 50 sets of lunar observations taken +by me on shore gives for the Longitude of Point Venus 210 degrees +33 minutes 57 seconds east.</p> + +<p>Captain Cook in 1769 places it in 210 degrees 27 minutes 30 +seconds east.</p> + +<p>In 1777, his last voyage, 210 degrees 22 minutes 28 seconds +east.</p> + +<p>The tide in Toahroah harbour was very inconsiderable and not +regular. The greatest rise that I observed was 11 inches; but +what was most singular the time of high-water did not appear to +be governed by the moon, it being at the highest every day +between noon and two o'clock. The variable winds and weather at +this time of the year has no doubt an influence on the tides: on +some days scarce any rise was perceptible.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a name="ch12"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 12.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>At the Island Huaheine.<br> +A Friend of Omai visits the Ship.<br> +Leave the Society Islands.<br> +A Water-spout.<br> +The Island Whytootackee discovered.<br> +Anchor in Annamooka Road.<br> +Our Parties on Shore robbed by the Natives.<br> +Sail from Annamooka.<br> +The Chiefs detained on board.<br> +Part friendly.</b></blockquote> + +<p>1789. April. Sunday 5.</p> + +<p>We steered towards the island Huaheine, which we got sight of +the next morning. At noon we brought to near the entrance of +Owharre harbour, it not being my intention to anchor. We could +see every part of the harbour distinctly, but my attention was +particularly directed to the spot where Omai's house had stood, +no part of which was now visible. It was near three o'clock +before any canoes came off to us, for the people on shore +imagined that the ship was coming into the harbour. The first +that arrived had three men in it, who brought a few coconuts. I +enquired about the chief or Earee Rahie; and one of the fellows +with great gravity said he was the Earee Rahie, and that he had +come to desire I would bring the ship into the harbour. I could +not help laughing at his impudence: however I gave him a few +nails for his coconuts and he left us. Immediately after a double +canoe in which were ten men came alongside; among them was a +young man who recollected and called me by my name. Several other +canoes arrived with hogs, yams, and other provisions, which we +purchased. My acquaintance told me that he had lived with our +friend Omai. He confirmed the account that had already been given +and informed me that of all the animals which had been left with +Omai the mare only remained alive. He said that Omai and himself +had often rode together, and I observed that many of the +islanders who came on board had the representation of a man on +horseback tattooed on their legs. After the death of Omai his +house was broken to pieces and the materials stolen. The firearms +were at Ulietea but useless. I enquired after the seeds and +plants and was informed that they were all destroyed except one +tree, but of what kind that was I could not make out from their +description. I was much pressed to take the ship into the +harbour, and Omai's companion requested me to let him go to +England. When they found that I would not stop among them they +seemed jealous of our going to Ulietea, and it appeared to give +them some satisfaction when I told them that I should not go near +that island.</p> + +<p>The canoes had left us and we were making sail when we +discovered an Indian in the water swimming towards the shore, +which in all probability he would not have been able to reach. We +took him up and luckily another canoe coming alongside we put him +in her. The people of the canoe said that the man was insane, but +how he came to be swimming so far from the land we could not +conjecture. At six o'clock we made sail and ran all night to the +south-west and south-west by south, between the islands Huaheine +and Ulietea. The next morning I altered the course, steering more +to the westward for the Friendly Islands.</p> + +<p>Thursday 9.</p> + +<p>On the 9th at nine o'clock in the morning the weather became +squally and a body of thick black clouds collected in the east. +Soon after a water-spout was seen at no great distance from us, +which appeared to great advantage from the darkness of the clouds +behind it. As nearly as I could judge it was about two feet +diameter at the upper part, and about eight inches at the lower. +I had scarce made these remarks when I observed that it was +advancing rapidly towards the ship. We immediately altered our +course and took in all the sails except the foresail, soon after +which it passed within ten yards of our stern, making a rustling +noise but without our feeling the least effect from its being so +near us. The rate at which it travelled I judged to be about ten +miles per hour going towards the west in the direction of the +wind. In a quarter of an hour after passing us it dispersed. I +never was so near a water-spout before: the connection between +the column, which was higher than our mastheads, and the water +below was no otherwise visible than by the sea being disturbed in +a circular space of about six yards in diameter, the centre of +which, from the whirling of the water round it, formed a hollow; +and from the outer part of the circle the water was thrown up +with much force in a spiral direction, and could be traced to the +height of fifteen or twenty feet. At this elevation we lost sight +of it and could see nothing of its junction with the column +above. It is impossible to say what injury we should have +suffered if it had passed directly over us. Masts I imagine might +have been carried away, but I do not apprehend it would have +endangered the loss of a ship.</p> + +<p>Saturday 11.</p> + +<p>As we sailed very near the track made in former voyages I had +little reason to expect that we should at this time make any new +discovery: nevertheless on the 11th at daylight land was seen to +the south-south-west at about five leagues distance, which +appeared to be an island of a moderate height. On the north part +was a round hill: the north-west part was highest and steep: the +south-east part sloped off to a low point.</p> + +<p>The wind had been westerly since the preceding noon, and at +the time we saw the land the ship was standing to the north-west. +At six we tacked to the southward, and as we advanced in that +direction discovered a number of low keys, of which at noon we +counted nine: they were all covered with trees. The large island +first seen had a most fruitful appearance, its shore being +bordered with flat land, on which grew innumerable coconut and +other trees; and the higher grounds beautifully interspersed with +lawns. The wind being light and unfavourable we endeavoured all +day but without success to get near the land. In the night we had +a heavy squall which obliged us to clew up all our sails and soon +after it fell calm.</p> + +<p>Sunday 12.</p> + +<p>The winds were light and variable all day with calms. At two +in the afternoon we were within three miles of the southernmost +key and could see a number of people within the reefs. Shortly +after a canoe, in which were four men, paddled off to us and came +alongside without showing any signs of apprehension or surprise. +I gave them a few beads and they came into the ship. One man, who +seemed to have an ascendancy over the others, looked about the +ship with some appearance of curiosity, but none of them would +venture to go below. They asked for some boiled fresh pork which +they saw in a bowl belonging to one of the seaman, and it was +given them to eat with boiled plantains. Being told that I was +the Earee or chief of the ship the principal person came and +joined noses with me, and presented to me a large mother of pearl +shell, which hung with plaited hair round his neck; this he +fastened round my neck with signs of great satisfaction.</p> + +<p>They spoke the same language as at Otaheite, with very little +variation as far as I could judge. In a small vocabulary that I +made whilst conversing with these men only four words out of +twenty-four differed from the Otaheite. The name of the large +island they told me was Wytootackee, and the Earee was called +Lomakkayah. They said that there were no hogs, dogs, or goats +upon the island, nor had they yams, or tarro; but that plantains, +coconuts, fowls, breadfruit, and avees, were there in great +abundance. Notwithstanding they said that no hogs were on the +island it was evident they had seen such animals; for they called +them by the same name as is given to them at Otaheite, which made +me suspect that they were deceiving me. However I ordered a young +boar and sow to be put into their canoe with some yams and tarro, +as we could afford to part with some of these articles. I also +gave to each of them a knife, a small adze, some nails, beads, +and a looking-glass. The latter they examined with great +curiosity; but with the ironwork they appeared to be acquainted; +calling it aouree, which is the common name for iron among the +islands where it is known.</p> + +<p>As they were preparing to leave us the chief of the canoe took +possession of everything that I had given to the others. One of +them showed some signs of dissatisfaction, but after a little +altercation they joined noses and were reconciled. I now thought +they were going to leave the ship, but only two of them went into +the canoe, the other two purposing to stay all night with us and +to have the canoe return for them in the morning. I would have +treated their confidence with the regard it merited but it was +impossible to say how far the ship might be driven from the +island in the night. This I explained to them and they +reluctantly consented to leave us. They were very solicitous that +somebody from the ship should go on shore with them, and just +before they quitted us they gave me a wooden spear which was the +only thing, the paddles excepted, they had brought with them in +the canoe. It was a common longstaff pointed with the toa +wood.</p> + +<p>The island of Wytootackee is about ten miles in circuit; its +latitude from 18 degrees 50 minutes to 18 degrees 54 minutes +south, and longitude 200 degrees 19 minutes east. A group of +small keys, eight in number, lie to the south-east, four or five +miles distant from Wytootackee and a single one to the +west-south-west; the southernmost of the group is in latitude 18 +degrees 58 minutes south. Variation of the compass 8 degrees 14 +minutes east.</p> + +<p>The people that came off to us did not differ in appearance +from the natives of Hervey's Islands, seen in Captain Cook's last +voyage, though much more friendly and inoffensive in their +manners. They were tattooed across the arms and legs, but not on +the loins or posteriors, like the people of Otaheite. From their +knowledge of iron they have doubtless communication with Hervey's +Islands, which are not more than eighteen leagues distant from +them.</p> + +<p>In the night a breeze sprang up from the south and we +continued our course to the westward.</p> + +<p>Saturday 18.</p> + +<p>On the 18th at sunset we saw Savage Island, and in the night +passed by to the southward of it.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 21.</p> + +<p>At eleven o'clock in the forenoon of the 21st we saw the +island Caow from the masthead, bearing north-west by west +three-quarters west. This island is a high mountain with a +sharp-pointed top, and is the north-westernmost of all the +Friendly Islands. At noon we saw it very distinctly from the +deck, it being then nineteen leagues distant from us.</p> + +<p>Thursday 23.</p> + +<p>The wind being to the southward we could not fetch Annamooka, +at which island I intended to stop, before the evening of the +23rd, when we anchored in the road in twenty-three fathoms, the +extremes of Annamooka bearing east by north and south by east, +our distance from the shore being half a league. In the middle of +the day a canoe had come off to us from the island Mango in which +was a chief named Latoomy-lange, who dined with me. Immediately +on our anchoring several canoes came alongside with yams and +coconuts, but none of the natives offered to come on board +without first asking permission. As yet I had seen no person with +whom I could recollect to have been formerly acquainted. I made +enquiries after some of our old friends, particularly the chiefs, +but I found myself not sufficiently master of the language to +obtain the information I wanted.</p> + +<p>Friday 24.</p> + +<p>Our station being inconvenient for watering at daylight we +weighed, and worked more to the eastward where we anchored in +twenty-one fathoms; the extremes of Annamooka bearing north 85 +degrees east and south 33 degrees west; the Sandy bay south 73 +degrees east; our distance from the shore half a league. Sounded +all round the ship and found the ground to be a coarse coral +bottom, but with even soundings.</p> + +<p>By this time some large sailing canoes were arrived from +different islands in the neighbourhood of Annamooka; and an old +lame man named Tepa, whom I had known in 1777 and immediately +recollected, came on board. Two other chiefs whose names were +Noocaboo and Kunocappo were with him. Tepa having formerly been +accustomed to our manner of speaking their language I found I +could converse with him tolerably well. He informed me that +Poulaho, Feenow, and Tubow, were alive and at Tongataboo, and +that they would come hither as soon as they heard of our arrival, +of which he promised to send them immediate notice. He said that +the cattle which we had left at Tongataboo had all bred, and that +the old ones were yet living. He enquired after several people +who were here with Captain Cook. Being desirous to see the ship I +took him and his companions below and showed them the breadfruit +and other plants, at seeing which they were greatly surprised. I +made each of them a present, and when they had satisfied their +curiosity I invited them to go on shore with me in the ship's +boat.</p> + +<p>I took Nelson with me to procure some breadfruit plants, one +of our stock being dead and two or three others a little sickly. +When we landed there were about two hundred people on the beach, +most of them women and children. Tepa showed me a large +boat-house which he told me we might make use of, thinking we +should have a party on shore as our ships had formerly. I went +with him in search of water but could find no better place than +where Captain Cook had watered, which is a quarter of a mile +inland from the east end of the beach. I next walked to the west +point of the bay where some plants and seeds had been sown by +Captain Cook; and had the satisfaction to see in a plantation +close by about twenty fine pineapple plants but no fruit, this +not being the proper season. They told me that they had eaten +many of them, that they were fine and large, and that at +Tongataboo there were great numbers.</p> + +<p>When I returned to the landing-place I was desired to sit down +and a present was brought me which consisted of some bundles of +coconuts only. This fell short of my expectations; however I +appeared satisfied and distributed beads and trinkets to the +women and children near me.</p> + +<p>Numerous were the marks of mourning with which these people +disfigure themselves, such as bloody temples, their heads +deprived of most of the hair, and what was worse almost all of +them with the loss of some of their fingers. Several fine boys, +not above six years old, had lost both their little fingers; and +some of the men besides these had parted with the middle finger +of the right hand.</p> + +<p>The chiefs went off with me to dinner, and I found a brisk +trade carrying on at the ship for yams; some plantains and +breadfruit were likewise brought on board but no hogs. In the +afternoon more sailing canoes arrived, some of which contained +not less than ninety passengers. We purchased eight hogs, some +dogs, fowls, and shaddocks. Yams were in great abundance, very +fine and large; one yam weighed above forty-five pounds. Among +the people that came this afternoon were two of the name of +Tubow, which is a family of the first distinction among the +Friendly Islands; one of them was chief of the island Lefooga; +with him and Tepa I went on shore to see the wooding place. I +found a variety of sizable trees but the kind which I principally +pitched upon was the Barringtonia of Forster. I acquainted Tepa +with my intention of sending people to cut wood, which meeting +with his approbation, we parted.</p> + +<p>Saturday 25.</p> + +<p>On the 25th at daylight the wooding and watering parties went +on shore. I had directed them not to cut the kind of tree* which, +when Captain Cook wooded here in 1777, blinded for a time many of +the woodcutters. They had not been an hour on shore before one +man had an axe stolen from him and another an adze. Tepa was +applied to, who got the axe restored but the adze was not +recovered. In the evening we completed wooding.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Excoecaria agallocha Linn. Sp. Pl. Called in the +Malay language caju mata boota, which signifies the the tree that +wounds the eyes.)</blockquote> + +<p>Sunday 26.</p> + +<p>In the morning Nelson went on shore to get a few plants but, +no principal chief being among the people, he was insulted, and a +spade taken from him. A boat's grapnel was likewise stolen from +the watering party. Tepa recovered the spade for us, but the +crowd of natives was become so great, by the number of canoes +that had arrived from different islands, that it was impossible +to do anything where there was such a multitude of people without +a chief of sufficient authority to command the whole. I therefore +ordered the watering party to go on board and determined to sail, +for I could not discover that any canoe had been sent to acquaint +the chiefs of Tongataboo of our being here. For some time after +the thefts were committed the chiefs kept away, but before noon +they came on board.</p> + +<p>At noon we unmoored, and at one o'clock got under sail. The +two Tubows, Kunocappo, Latoomy-lange, and another chief, were on +board, and I acquainted them that unless the grapnel was returned +they must remain in the ship. They were surprised and not a +little alarmed. Canoes were immediately despatched after the +grapnel, which I was informed could not possibly be brought to +the ship before the next day, as those who had stolen it +immediately sailed with their prize to another island. +Nevertheless I detained them till sunset, when their uneasiness +and impatience increased to such a degree that they began to beat +themselves about the face and eyes and some of them cried +bitterly. As this distress was more than the grapnel was worth, +and I had no reason to imagine that they were privy to or in any +manner concerned in the theft, I could not think of detaining +them longer and called their canoes alongside. I then told them +they were at liberty to go, and made each of them a present of a +hatchet, a saw, with some knives, gimblets, and nails. This +unexpected present and the sudden change in their situation +affected them not less with joy than they had before been with +apprehension. They were unbounded in their acknowledgments and I +have little doubt but that we parted better friends than if the +affair had never happened.</p> + +<p>We stood to the northward all night with light winds.</p> + +<p>Monday 27.</p> + +<p>And on the next day the 27th at noon were between the islands +Tofoa and Kotoo. Latitude observed 19 degrees 18 minutes +south.</p> + +<p>Thus far the voyage had advanced in a course of uninterrupted +prosperity, and had been attended with many circumstances equally +pleasing and satisfactory. A very different scene was now to be +experienced. A conspiracy had been formed which was to render all +our past labour productive only of extreme misery and distress. +The means had been concerted and prepared with so much secrecy +and circumspection that no one circumstance appeared to occasion +the smallest suspicion of the impending calamity.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a name="ch13"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 13.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>A Mutiny in the Ship.</b></blockquote> + +<p>1789. April. Monday 27.</p> + +<p>We kept near the island Kotoo all the afternoon in hopes that +some canoes would come off to the ship; but in this I was +disappointed. The wind being northerly in the evening we steered +to the westward to pass to the south of Tofoa. I gave directions +for this course to be continued during the night. The master had +the first watch, the gunner the middle watch, and Mr. Christian +the morning watch. This was the turn of duty for the night.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 28.</p> + +<p>Just before sun-rising, while I was yet asleep, Mr. Christian, +with the master at arms, gunner's mate, and Thomas Burkitt, +seaman, came into my cabin, and seizing me tied my hands with a +cord behind my back, threatening me with instant death if I spoke +or made the least noise: I however called as loud as I could in +hopes of assistance; but they had already secured the officers +who were not of their party by placing sentinels at their doors. +There were three men at my cabin door besides the four within; +Christian had only a cutlass in his hand, the others had muskets +and bayonets. I was hauled out of bed and forced on deck in my +shirt, suffering great pain from the tightness which with they +had tied my hands. I demanded the reason of such violence but +received no other answer than abuse for not holding my tongue. +The master, the gunner, the surgeon, Mr. Elphinstone, master's +mate, and Nelson, were kept confined below; and the fore hatchway +was guarded by sentinels. The boatswain and carpenter, and also +the clerk, Mr. Samuel, were allowed to come upon deck, where they +saw me standing abaft the mizenmast with my hands tied behind my +back under a guard with Christian at their head. The boatswain +was ordered to hoist the launch out with a threat if he did not +do it instantly TO TAKE CARE OF HIMSELF.</p> + +<p>When the boat was out Mr. Hayward and Mr. Hallet, two of the +midshipmen, and Mr. Samuel, were ordered into it. I demanded what +their intention was in giving this order and endeavoured to +persuade the people near me not to persist in such acts of +violence; but it was to no effect: "Hold your tongue, Sir, or you +are dead this instant," was constantly repeated to me.</p> + +<p>The master by this time had sent to request that he might come +on deck, which was permitted but he was soon ordered back again +to his cabin.</p> + +<p>I continued my endeavours to turn the tide of affairs, when +Christian changed the cutlass which he had in his hand for a +bayonet that was brought to him and, holding me with a strong +grip by the cord that tied my hands, he with many oaths +threatened to kill me immediately if I would not be quiet: the +villains round me had their pieces cocked and bayonets fixed. +Particular people were called on to go into the boat and were +hurried over the side; whence I concluded that with these people +I was to be set adrift: I therefore made another effort to bring +about a change but with no other effect than to be threatened +with having my brains blown out.</p> + +<p>The boatswain and seamen who were to go in the boat were +allowed to collect twine, canvas, lines, sails, cordage, an eight +and twenty-gallon cask of water, and Mr. Samuel got 150 pounds of +bread, with a small quantity of rum and wine, also a quadrant and +compass; but he was forbidden on pain of death to touch either +map, ephemeris, book of astronomical observations, sextant, +timekeeper, or any of my surveys or drawings.</p> + +<p>The mutineers having forced those of the seamen whom they +meant to get rid of into the boat, Christian directed a dram to +be served to each of his own crew. I then unhappily saw that +nothing could be done to effect the recovery of the ship: there +was no one to assist me, and every endeavour on my part was +answered with threats of death.</p> + +<p>The officers were next called upon deck and forced over the +side into the boat, while I was kept apart from everyone, abaft +the mizenmast; Christian, armed with a bayonet, holding me by the +bandage that secured my hands. The guard round me had their +pieces cocked, but on my daring the ungrateful wretches to fire +they uncocked them.</p> + +<p>Isaac Martin, one of the guard over me, I saw had an +inclination to assist me, and as he fed me with shaddock (my lips +being quite parched) we explained our wishes to each other by our +looks; but this being observed Martin was removed from me. He +then attempted to leave the ship, for which purpose he got into +the boat; but with many threats they obliged him to return.</p> + +<p>The armourer, Joseph Coleman, and two of the carpenters, +McIntosh and Norman, were also kept contrary to their +inclination; and they begged of me, after I was astern in the +boat, to remember that they declared they had no hand in the +transaction. Michael Byrne, I am told, likewise wanted to leave +the ship.</p> + +<p>It is of no moment for me to recount my endeavours to bring +back the offenders to a sense of their duty: all I could do was +by speaking to them in general; but it was to no purpose, for I +was kept securely bound and no one except the guard suffered to +come near me.</p> + +<p>To Mr. Samuel I am indebted for securing my journals and +commission with some material ship papers. Without these I had +nothing to certify what I had done, and my honour and character +might have been suspected without my possessing a proper document +to have defended them. All this he did with great resolution, +though guarded and strictly watched. He attempted to save the +timekeeper, and a box with my surveys, drawings, and remarks for +fifteen years past, which were numerous, when he was hurried +away, with "Damn your eyes you are well off to get what you +have."</p> + +<p>It appeared to me that Christian was some time in doubt +whether he should keep the carpenter or his mates; at length he +determined on the latter and the carpenter was ordered into the +boat. He was permitted but not without some opposition to take +his tool chest.</p> + +<p>Much altercation took place among the mutinous crew during the +whole business: some swore "I'll be damned if he does not find +his way home, if he gets anything with him," (meaning me) and, +when the carpenter's chest was carrying away, "Damn my eyes he +will have a vessel built in a month." While others laughed at the +helpless situation of the boat, being very deep and so little +room for those who were in her. As for Christian he seemed as if +meditating destruction on himself and everyone else.</p> + +<p>I asked for arms but they laughed at me, and said I was well +acquainted with the people among whom I was going, and therefore +did not want them; four cutlasses however were thrown into the +boat after we were veered astern.</p> + +<p>The officers and men being in the boat they only waited for +me, of which the master at arms informed Christian, who then +said: "Come, captain Bligh, your officers and men are now in the +boat and you must go with them; if you attempt to make the least +resistance you will instantly be put to death" and, without +further ceremony, with a tribe of armed ruffians about me, I was +forced over the side where they untied my hands. Being in the +boat we were veered astern by a rope. A few pieces of pork were +thrown to us, and some clothes, also the cutlasses I have already +mentioned; and it was then that the armourer and carpenters +called out to me to remember that they had no hand in the +transaction. After having undergone a great deal of ridicule and +been kept some time to make sport for these unfeeling wretches we +were at length cast adrift in the open ocean.</p> + +<p>I had with me in the boat the following persons:</p> + +<pre> + +John Fryer: Master. +Thomas Ledward: Acting Surgeon. +David Nelson: Botanist. +William Peckover: Gunner. +William Cole: Boatswain. +William Purcell: Carpenter. +William Elphinston: Master's Mate. +Thomas Hayward, John Hallet: Midshipman. +John Norton, Peter Linkletter: Quarter Masters. +Lawrence Lebogue: Sailmaker. +John Smith, Thomas Hall: Cooks. +George Simpson: Quarter Master's Mate. +Robert Tinkler: A boy. +Robert Lamb: Butcher. +Mr. Samuel: Clerk. + +There remained on board the Bounty: + +Fletcher Christian: Master's Mate. +Peter Haywood, Edward Young, George Stewart: Midshipmen. +Charles Churchill: Master at Arms. +John Mills: Gunner's Mate. +James Morrison: Boatswain's Mate. +Thomas Burkitt, Matthew Quintal, John Sumner, John Millward, William McKoy, + Henry Hillbrant, Michael Byrne, William Musprat, Alexander Smith, + John Williams, Thomas Ellison, Isaac Martin, Richard Skinner, + Matthew Thompson: Able Seamen. +William Brown: Gardener. +Joseph Coleman: Armourer. +Charles Norman: Carpenter's Mate. +Thomas McIntosh: Carpenter's Crew. + +In all 25 hands, and the most able men of the ship's company. + +</pre> + +<p>Having little or no wind we rowed pretty fast towards Tofoa, +which bore north-east about 10 leagues from us. While the ship +was in sight she steered to the west-north-west, but I considered +this only as a feint; for when we were sent away "Huzza for +Otaheite" was frequently heard among the mutineers.</p> + +<p>Christian the chief of the mutineers is of a respectable +family in the north of England. This was the third voyage he had +made with me and, as I found it necessary to keep my ship's +company at three watches, I had given him an order to take charge +of the third, his abilities being thoroughly equal to the task; +and by this means the master and gunner were not at watch and +watch.</p> + +<p>Haywood is also of a respectable family in the north of +England and a young man of abilities as well as Christian. These +two had been objects of my particular regard and attention, and I +had taken great pains to instruct them, having entertained hopes +that as professional men they would have become a credit to their +country.</p> + +<p>Young was well recommended and had the look of an able stout +seaman: he however fell short of what his appearance +promised.</p> + +<p>Stewart was a young man of creditable parents in the Orkneys, +at which place on the return of the Resolution from the South +Seas in 1780 we received so many civilities that on that account +only I should gladly have taken him with me but, independent of +this recommendation, he was a seaman and had always borne a good +character.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the roughness with which I was treated the +remembrance of past kindnesses produced some signs of remorse in +Christian. When they were forcing me out of the ship I asked him +if this treatment was a proper return for the many instances he +had received of my friendship? he appeared disturbed at my +question and answered with much emotion: "That, captain Bligh, +that is the thing; I am in hell, I am in hell."</p> + +<p>As soon as I had time to reflect I felt an inward satisfaction +which prevented any depression of my spirits: conscious of my +integrity and anxious solicitude for the good of the service in +which I had been engaged I found my mind wonderfully supported, +and I began to conceive hopes, notwithstanding so heavy a +calamity, that I should one day be able to account to my King and +country for the misfortune. A few hours before my situation had +been peculiarly flattering. I had a ship in the most perfect +order and well stored with every necessary both for service and +health: by early attention to those particulars I had as much as +lay in my power, provided against any accident, in case I could +not get through Endeavour Straits, as well as against what might +befall me in them; add to this the plants had been successfully +preserved in the most flourishing state: so that upon the whole +the voyage was two-thirds completed, and the remaining part to +all appearance in a very promising way; every person on board +being in perfect health, to establish which was ever amongst the +principal objects of my attention.</p> + +<p>It will very naturally be asked what could be the reason for +such a revolt? in answer to which I can only conjecture that the +mutineers had flattered themselves with the hopes of a more happy +life among the Otaheiteans than they could possibly enjoy in +England; and this, joined to some female connections, most +probably occasioned the whole transaction.</p> + +<p>The women at Otaheite are handsome, mild and cheerful in their +manners and conversation, possessed of great sensibility, and +have sufficient delicacy to make them admired and beloved. The +chiefs were so much attached to our people that they rather +encouraged their stay among them than otherwise, and even made +them promises of large possessions. Under these and many other +attendant circumstances equally desirable it is now perhaps not +so much to be wondered at, though scarcely possible to have been +foreseen, that a set of sailors, most of them void of +connections, should be led away; especially when, in addition to +such powerful inducements, they imagined it in their power to fix +themselves in the midst of plenty on one of the finest islands in +the world, where they need not labour, and where the allurements +of dissipation are beyond anything that can be conceived. The +utmost however that any commander could have supposed to have +happened is that some of the people would have been tempted to +desert. But, if it should be asserted that a commander is to +guard against an act of mutiny and piracy in his own ship more +than by the common rules of service, it is as much as to say that +he must sleep locked up and when awake be girded with +pistols.</p> + +<p>Desertions have happened more or less from most of the ships +that have been at the Society Islands; but it has always been in +the commanders power to make the chiefs return their people: the +knowledge therefore that it was unsafe to desert perhaps first +led mine to consider with what ease so small a ship might be +surprised, and that so favourable an opportunity would never +offer to them again.</p> + +<p>The secrecy of this mutiny is beyond all conception. Thirteen +of the party who were with me had always lived forward among the +seamen; yet neither they nor the messmates of Christian, Stewart, +Haywood, and Young, had ever observed any circumstance that made +them in the least suspect what was going on. To such a +close-planned act of villainy, my mind being entirely free from +any suspicion, it is not wonderful that I fell a sacrifice. +Perhaps if there had been marines on board a sentinel at my +cabin-door might have prevented it; for I slept with the door +always open that the officer of the watch might have access to me +on all occasions, the possibility of such a conspiracy being ever +the farthest from my thoughts. Had their mutiny been occasioned +by any grievances, either real or imaginary, I must have +discovered symptoms of their discontent, which would have put me +on my guard: but the case was far otherwise. Christian in +particular I was on the most friendly terms with: that very day +he was engaged to have dined with me, and the preceding night he +excused himself from supping with me on pretence of being unwell; +for which I felt concerned, having no suspicions of his integrity +and honour.</p> + +<p align="center"><a name="bligh-05"></a><img alt="" src= +"images/bligh-05.jpg"><br> +<b>A copy of the Draught from which the Bounty's Launch was built.</b></p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a name="ch14"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 14.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>Proceed in the Launch to the Island Tofoa.<br> +Difficulty in obtaining Supplies there.<br> +Treacherous Attack of the Natives.<br> +Escape to Sea and bear away for New Holland.</b></blockquote> + +<p>1789. April.</p> + +<p>My first determination was to seek a supply of breadfruit and +water at Tofoa, and afterwards to sail for Tongataboo, and there +risk a solicitation to Poulaho the king to equip our boat and +grant us a supply of water and provisions, so as to enable us to +reach the East Indies.</p> + +<p>The quantity of provisions I found in the boat was 150 pounds +of bread, 16 pieces of pork, each piece weighing 2 pounds, 6 +quarts of rum, 6 bottles of wine, with 28 gallons of water, and +four empty barrecoes.</p> + +<p>Fortunately it was calm all the afternoon till about four +o'clock, when we were so far to windward that, with a moderate +easterly breeze which sprung up, we were able to sail. It was +nevertheless dark when we got to Tofoa where I expected to land, +but the shore proved to be so steep and rocky that we were +obliged to give up all thoughts of it and keep the boat under the +lee of the island with two oars, for there was no anchorage. +Having fixed on this mode of proceeding for the night I served to +every person half a pint of grog, and each took to his rest as +well as our unhappy situation would allow.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 29.</p> + +<p>In the morning at dawn of day we rowed along shore in search +of a landing-place, and about ten o'clock we discovered a cove +with a stony beach at the north-west part of the island, where I +dropped the grapnel within 20 yards of the rocks. A great surf +ran on the shore but, as I was unwilling to diminish our stock of +provisions, I landed Mr. Samuel and some others, who climbed the +cliffs and got into the country to search for supplies. The rest +of us remained at the cove, not discovering any other way into +the country than that by which Mr. Samuel had proceeded. It was +great consolation to me to find that the spirits of my people did +not sink, notwithstanding our miserable and almost hopeless +situation. Towards noon Mr. Samuel returned with a few quarts of +water which he had found in holes; but he had met with no spring +or any prospect of a sufficient supply in that particular, and +had seen only the signs of inhabitants. As it was uncertain what +might be our future necessities I only issued a morsel of bread +and a glass of wine to each person for dinner.</p> + +<p>I observed the latitude of this cove to be 19 degrees 41 +minutes south. This is the north-west part of Tofoa, the +north-westernmost of the Friendly Islands.</p> + +<p>The weather was fair but the wind blew so strong from the +east-south-east that we could not venture to sea. Our detention +made it absolutely necessary to endeavour to obtain something +towards our support; for I determined if possible to keep our +first stock entire. We therefore weighed and rowed along shore to +see if anything could be got; and at last discovered some coconut +trees; but they were on the top of high precipices and the surf +made it dangerous landing: both one and the other we however got +the better of. Some of the people with much difficulty climbed +the cliffs and got about 20 coconuts, and others flung them to +ropes, by which we hauled them through the surf into the boat. +This was all that could be done here and, as I found no place so +safe as the one we had left to spend the night at, I returned to +the cove and, having served a coconut to each person, we went to +rest again in the boat.</p> + +<p>Thursday 30.</p> + +<p>At daylight we attempted to put to sea; but the wind and +weather proved so bad that I was glad to return to our former +station where, after issuing a morsel of bread and a spoonful of +rum to each person, we landed, and I went off with Mr. Nelson, +Mr. Samuel, and some others, into the country, having hauled +ourselves up the precipice by long vines which were fixed there +by the natives for that purpose, this being the only way into the +country.</p> + +<p>We found a few deserted huts and a small plantain walk but +little taken care of, from which we could only collect three +small bunches of plantains. After passing this place we came to a +deep gully that led towards a mountain near a volcano and, as I +conceived that in the rainy season very great torrents of water +must pass through it, we hoped to find sufficient for our use +remaining in some holes of the rocks; but after all our search +the whole that we collected was only nine gallons. We advanced +within two miles of the foot of the highest mountain in the +island, on which is the volcano that is almost constantly +burning. The country near it is covered with lava and has a most +dreary appearance. As we had not been fortunate in our +discoveries, and saw nothing to alleviate our distresses except +the plantains and water above-mentioned, we returned to the boat +exceedingly fatigued and faint. When I came to the precipice +whence we were to descend into the cove I was seized with such a +dizziness in my head that I thought it scarce possible to effect +it: however by the assistance of Nelson and others they at last +got me down, in a weak condition. Every person being returned by +noon I gave about an ounce of pork and two plantains to each, +with half a glass of wine. I again observed the latitude of this +place 19 degrees 41 minutes south. The people who remained by the +boat I had directed to look for fish or what they could pick up +about the rocks; but nothing eatable could be found: so that upon +the whole we considered ourselves on as miserable a spot of land +as could well be imagined.</p> + +<p>I could not say positively from the former knowledge I had of +this island whether it was inhabited or not; but I knew it was +considered inferior to the other islands, and I was not certain +but that the Indians only resorted to it at particular times. I +was very anxious to ascertain this point for, in case there had +been only a few people here, and those could have furnished us +with but very moderate supplies, the remaining in this spot to +have made preparations for our voyage would have been preferable +to the risk of going amongst multitudes, where perhaps we might +lose everything. A party therefore sufficiently strong I +determined should go another route as soon as the sun became +lower, and they cheerfully undertook it.</p> + +<p>About two o'clock in the afternoon the party set out but, +after suffering much fatigue, they returned in the evening +without any kind of success.</p> + +<p>At the head of the cove about 150 yards from the waterside +there was a cave; the distance across the stony beach was about +100 yards, and from the country into the cove there was no other +way than that which I have already described. The situation +secured us from the danger of being surprised, and I determined +to remain on shore for the night with a part of my people that +the others might have more room to rest in the boat with the +master, whom I directed to lie at a grapnel and be watchful in +case we should be attacked. I ordered one plantain for each +person to be boiled and, having supped on this scanty allowance +with a quarter of a pint of grog, and fixed the watches for the +night, those whose turn it was laid down to sleep in the cave, +before which we kept up a good fire yet notwithstanding we were +much troubled with flies and mosquitoes.</p> + +<p>May. Friday 1.</p> + +<p>At dawn of day the party set out again in a different route to +see what they could find, in the course of which they suffered +greatly for want of water: they however met with two men, a +woman, and a child: the men came with them to the cove and +brought two coconut shells of water. I endeavoured to make +friends of these people and sent them away for breadfruit, +plantains, and water. Soon after other natives came to us; and by +noon there were thirty about us, from whom we obtained a small +supply; but I could only afford one ounce of pork and a quarter +of a breadfruit to each man for dinner, with half a pint of +water, for I was fixed in my resolution not to use any of the +bread or water in the boat.</p> + +<p>No particular chief was yet among the natives: they were +notwithstanding tractable, and behaved honestly, exchanging the +provisions they brought for a few buttons and beads. The party +who had been out informed me of their having seen several neat +plantations, so that it remained no longer a doubt of there being +settled inhabitants on the island, for which reason I determined +to get what I could, and to sail the first moment that the wind +and weather would allow us to put to sea.</p> + +<p>I was much puzzled in what manner to account to the natives +for the loss of my ship: I knew they had too much sense to be +amused with a story that the ship was to join me, when she was +not in sight from the hills. I was at first doubtful whether I +should tell the real fact or say that the ship had overset and +sunk, and that we only were saved: the latter appeared to be the +most proper and advantageous for us, and I accordingly instructed +my people, that we might all agree in one story. As I expected +enquiries were made about the ship, and they seemed readily +satisfied with our account; but there did not appear the least +symptom of joy or sorrow in their faces, although I fancied I +discovered some marks of surprise. Some of the natives were +coming and going the whole afternoon, and we got enough of +breadfruit, plantains, and coconuts for another day; but of water +they only brought us about five pints. A canoe also came in with +four men and brought a few coconuts and breadfruit which I bought +as I had done the rest. Nails were much enquired after, but I +would not suffer any to be shown as they were wanted for the use +of the boat.</p> + +<p>Towards evening I had the satisfaction to find our stock of +provisions somewhat increased, but the natives did not appear to +have much to spare. What they brought was in such small +quantities that I had no reason to hope we should be able to +procure from them sufficient to stock us for our voyage. At +sunset all the natives left us in quiet possession of the cove. I +thought this a good sign, and made no doubt that they would come +again the next day with a better supply of food and water, with +which I hoped to sail without farther delay: for if in attempting +to get to Tongataboo we should be driven to leeward of the +islands there would be a larger quantity of provisions to support +us against such a misfortune.</p> + +<p>At night I served a quarter of a breadfruit and a coconut to +each person for supper and, a good fire being made, all but the +watch went to sleep.</p> + +<p>Saturday 2.</p> + +<p>At daybreak the next morning I was pleased to find everyone's +spirits a little revived, and that they no longer regarded me +with those anxious looks which had constantly been directed +towards me since we lost sight of the ship: every countenance +appeared to have a degree of cheerfulness, and they all seemed +determined to do their best.</p> + +<p>As there was no certainty of our being supplied with water by +the natives I sent a party among the gullies in the mountains +with empty shells to see what could be found. In their absence +the natives came about us as I expected, and in greater numbers; +two canoes also came in from round the north side of the island. +In one of them was an elderly chief called Maccaackavow. Soon +after some of our foraging party returned, and with them came a +good-looking chief called Egijeefow, or perhaps more properly +Eefow, Egij or Eghee, signifying a chief. To each of these men I +made a present of an old shirt and a knife, and I soon found they +either had seen me or had heard of my being at Annamooka. They +knew I had been with captain Cook, who they inquired after, and +also captain Clerk. They were very inquisitive to know in what +manner I had lost my ship. During this conversation a young man +named Nageete appeared, whom I remembered to have seen at +Annamooka: he expressed much pleasure at our meeting. I enquired +after Poulaho and Feenow, who they said were at Tongataboo; and +Eefow agreed to accompany me thither if I would wait till the +weather moderated. The readiness and affability of this man gave +me much satisfaction.</p> + +<p>This however was but of short duration for the natives began +to increase in number and I observed some symptoms of a design +against us. Soon after they attempted to haul the boat on shore, +on which I brandished my cutlass in a threatening manner and +spoke to Eefow to desire them to desist, which they did and +everything became quiet again. My people who had been in the +mountains now returned with about three gallons of water. I kept +buying up the little breadfruit that was brought to us, and +likewise some spears to arm my men with, having only four +cutlasses, two of which were in the boat. As we had no means of +improving our situation I told our people I would wait till +sunset, by which time perhaps something might happen in our +favour: for if we attempted to go at present we must fight our +way through, which we could do more advantageously at night; and +that in the meantime we would endeavour to get off to the boat +what we had bought. The beach was lined with the natives and we +heard nothing but the knocking of stones together, which they had +in each hand. I knew very well this was the sign of an attack. At +noon I served a coconut and a breadfruit to each person for +dinner, and gave some to the chiefs, with whom I continued to +appear intimate and friendly. They frequently importuned me to +sit down but I as constantly refused: for it occurred both to +Nelson and myself that the intended to seize hold of me if I gave +them such an opportunity. Keeping therefore constantly on our +guard we were suffered to eat our uncomfortable meal in some +quietness.</p> + +<p>After dinner we began by little and little to get our things +into the boat, which was a troublesome business on account of the +surf. I carefully watched the motions of the natives, who +continued to increase in number, and found that, instead of their +intention being to leave us, fires were made, and places fixed on +for their stay during the night. Consultations were also held +among them and everything assured me we should be attacked. I +sent orders to the master that when he saw us coming down he +should keep the boat close to the shore that we might the more +readily embark.</p> + +<p>I had my journal on shore with me, writing the occurrences in +the cave and in sending it down to the boat, it was nearly +snatched away but for the timely assistance of the gunner.</p> + +<p>The sun was near setting when I gave the word, on which every +person who was on shore with me boldly took up his proportion of +things and carried them to the boat. The chiefs asked me if I +would not stay with them all night. I said: "No, I never sleep +out of my boat; but in the morning we will again trade with you, +and I shall remain till the weather is moderate that we may go, +as we have agreed, to see Poulaho at Tongataboo." Maccaackavow +then got up and said: "You will not sleep on shore? then Mattie" +(which directly signifies we will kill you) and he left me. The +onset was now preparing; everyone as I have described before kept +knocking stones together, and Eefow quitted me. All but two or +three things were in the boat, when I took Nageete by the hand, +and we walked down the beach, everyone in a silent kind of +horror.</p> + +<p>While I was seeing the people embark Nageete wanted me to stay +to speak to Eefow, but I found he was encouraging them to the +attack, and it was my determination if they had then begun to +have killed him for his treacherous behaviour. I ordered the +carpenter not to quit me till the other people were in the boat. +Nageete, finding I would not stay, loosed himself from my hold +and went off, and we all got into the boat except one man who, +while I was getting on board, quitted it and ran up the beach to +cast the stern fast off, notwithstanding the master and others +called to him to return while they were hauling me out of the +water.</p> + +<p>I was no sooner in the boat than the attack began by about 200 +men; the unfortunate poor man who had run up the beach was +knocked down, and the stones flew like a shower of shot. Many +Indians got hold of the stern rope and were near hauling the boat +on shore, which they would certainly have effected if I had not +had a knife in my pocket with which I cut the rope. We then +hauled off to the grapnel, everyone being more or less hurt. At +this time I saw five of the natives about the poor man they had +killed, and two of them were beating him about the head with +stones in their hands.</p> + +<p>We had no time to reflect for to my surprise they filled their +canoes with stones, and twelve men came off after us to renew the +attack, which they did so effectually as nearly to disable us +all. Our grapnel was foul but Providence here assisted us; the +fluke broke and we got to our oars and pulled to sea. They +however could paddle round us, so that we were obliged to sustain +the attack without being able to return it, except with such +stones as lodged in the boat, and in this I found we were very +inferior to them. We could not close because our boat was +lumbered and heavy, of which they knew how to take advantage: I +therefore adopted the expedient of throwing overboard some +clothes which, as I expected, they stopped to pick up and, as it +was by this time almost dark, they gave over the attack and +returned towards the shore leaving us to reflect on our unhappy +situation.</p> + +<p>The poor man killed by the natives was John Norton: this was +his second voyage with me as a quartermaster, and his worthy +character made me lament his loss very much. He has left an aged +parent I am told, whom he supported.</p> + +<p>I once before sustained an attack of a similar nature with a +smaller number of Europeans against a multitude of Indians: it +was after the death of Captain Cook on the Morai at Owhyhee, +where I was left by Lieutenant King. Yet notwithstanding this +experience I had not an idea that the power of a man's arm could +throw stones from two to eight pounds weight with such force and +exactness as these people did. Here unhappily we were without +firearms, which the Indians knew; and it was a fortunate +circumstance that they did not begin to attack us in the cave; +for in that case our destruction must have been inevitable, and +we should have had nothing left for it but to sell our lives as +dearly as we could, in which I found everyone cheerfully disposed +to concur. This appearance of resolution deterred them, supposing +that they could effect their purpose without risk after we were +in the boat.</p> + +<p>Taking this as a sample of the disposition of the natives +there was but little reason to expect much benefit by persevering +in the intention of visiting Poulaho; for I considered their good +behaviour formerly to have proceeded from a dread of our +firearms, and which therefore was likely to cease, as they knew +we were now destitute of them: and even supposing our lives not +in danger the boat and everything we had would most probably be +taken from us, and thereby all hopes precluded of ever being able +to return to our native country.</p> + +<p>We set our sails and steered along shore by the west side of +the island Tofoa, the wind blowing fresh from the eastward. My +mind was employed in considering what was best to be done when I +was solicited by all hands to take them towards home: and when I +told them that no hopes of relief for us remained (except what +might be found at New Holland) till I came to Timor, a distance +of full 1200 leagues, where there was a Dutch settlement, but in +what part of the island I knew not, they all agreed to live on +one ounce of bread and a quarter of a pint of water per day. +Therefore after examining our stock of provisions and +recommending to them in the most solemn manner not to depart from +their promise, we bore away across a sea where the navigation is +but little known, in a small boat twenty-three feet long from +stem to stern, deep laden with eighteen men. I was happy however +to see that everyone seemed better satisfied with our situation +than myself.</p> + +<p>Our stock of provisions consisted of about one hundred and +fifty pounds of bread, twenty-eight gallons of water, twenty +pounds of pork, three bottles of wine, and five quarts of rum. +The difference between this and the quantity we had on leaving +the ship was principally owing to our loss in the bustle and +confusion of the attack. A few coconuts were in the boat and some +breadfruit, but the latter was trampled to pieces.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a name="ch15"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 15.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>Passage towards New Holland.<br> +Islands discovered in our Route.<br> +Our great Distresses.<br> +See the Reefs of New Holland and find a Passage through them.</b></blockquote> + +<p>1789. May.</p> + +<p>It was about eight o'clock at night when we bore away under a +reefed lug fore-sail and, having divided the people into watches +and got the boat in a little order, we returned God thanks for +our miraculous preservation and, fully confident of his gracious +support, I found my mind more at ease than it had been for some +time past.</p> + +<p>Sunday 3.</p> + +<p>At daybreak the gale increased; the sun rose very fiery and +red, a sure indication of a severe gale of wind. At eight it blew +a violent storm and the sea ran very high, so that between the +seas the sail was becalmed, and when on the top of the sea it was +too much to have set: but we could not venture to take in the +sail for we were in very imminent danger and distress, the sea +curling over the stern of the boat, which obliged us to bale with +all our might. A situation more distressing has perhaps seldom +been experienced.</p> + +<p>Our bread was in bags and in danger of being spoiled by the +wet: to be starved to death was inevitable if this could not be +prevented: I therefore began to examine what clothes there were +in the boat and what other things could be spared and, having +determined that only two suits should be kept for each person, +the rest was thrown overboard with some rope and spare sails, +which lightened the boat considerably, and we had more room to +bale the water out. Fortunately the carpenter had a good chest in +the boat, in which we secured the bread the first favourable +moment. His tool chest also was cleared and the tools stowed in +the bottom of the boat so that this became a second +convenience.</p> + +<p>I served a teaspoonful of rum to each person (for we were very +wet and cold) with a quarter of a breadfruit, which was scarce +eatable, for dinner: our engagement was now strictly to be +carried into execution, and I was fully determined to make our +provisions last eight weeks, let the daily proportion be ever so +small.</p> + +<p>At noon I considered our course and distance from Tofoa to be +west-north-west three-quarters west 86 miles, latitude 19 degrees +27 minutes south. I directed the course to the west-north-west +that we might get a sight of the islands called Feejee if they +laid in the direction the natives had pointed out to me.</p> + +<p>The weather continued very severe, the wind veering from +north-east to east-south-east. The sea ran higher than in the +forenoon, and the fatigue of baling to keep the boat from filling +was exceedingly great. We could do nothing more than keep before +the sea, in the course of which the boat performed so well that I +no longer dreaded any danger in that respect. But, among the +hardships we were to undergo, that of being constantly wet was +not the least.</p> + +<p>Monday 4.</p> + +<p>The night was very cold and at daylight our limbs were so +benumbed that we could scarce find the use of them. At this time +I served a teaspoonful of rum to each person, from which we all +found great benefit.</p> + +<p align="center"><a name="bligh-06"></a><img alt="" src= +"images/bligh-06.jpg"><br> +<b>Chart of Bligh's Islands discovered by Lt. William Bligh in the Bounty's Launch.<br> +a a The Track of the Launch.<br> +AND<br> +Chart of the Northern Part of the New Hebrides discovered by Lt. William Bligh in the Bounty's Launch.<br> +a a The Track of the Launch.<br></b></p> + +<p>As I have mentioned before I determined to keep to the +west-north-west till I got more to the northward, for I not only +expected to have better weather but to see the Feejee Islands, as +I have often understood from the natives of Annamooka that they +lie in that direction. Captain Cook likewise considered them to +be north-west by west from Tongataboo. Just before noon we +discovered a small flat island of a moderate height bearing +west-south-west 4 or 5 leagues. I observed our latitude to be 18 +degrees 58 minutes south; our longitude was by account 3 degrees +4 minutes west from the island of Tofoa, having made a north 72 +degrees west course, distance 95 miles, since yesterday noon. I +divided five small coconuts for our dinner and everyone was +satisfied.</p> + +<p>A little after noon other islands appeared, and at a quarter +past three o'clock we could count eight, bearing from south round +by the west to north-west by north, those to the south which were +the nearest being four leagues distant from us.</p> + +<p>I kept my course to the north-west by west between the +islands, the gale having considerably abated. At six o'clock we +discovered three other small islands to the north-west, the +westernmost of them bore north-west half west 7 leagues. I +steered to the southward of these islands a west-north-west +course for the night under a reefed sail.</p> + +<p>Served a few broken pieces of breadfruit for supper and +performed prayers.</p> + +<p>The night turned out fair and, having had tolerable rest, +everyone seemed considerably better in the morning, and +contentedly breakfasted on a few pieces of yams that were found +in the boat. After breakfast we examined our bread, a great deal +of which was damaged and rotten; this nevertheless we were glad +to keep for use.</p> + +<p>I had hitherto been scarcely able to keep any account of our +run, but we now equipped ourselves a little better by getting a +log-line marked and, having practised at counting seconds, +several could do it with some degree of exactness.</p> + +<p>The islands we had passed lie between the latitude of 19 +degrees 5 minutes south and 18 degrees 19 minutes south, and +according to my reckoning from 3 degrees 17 minutes to 3 degrees +46 minutes west longitude from the island Tofoa: the largest may +be about six leagues in circuit; but it is impossible for me to +be very correct. To show where they are to be found again is the +most my situation enabled me to do. The sketch I have made will +give a comparative view of their extent. I believe all the larger +islands are inhabited as they appeared very fertile.</p> + +<p>At noon I observed in latitude 18 degrees 10 seconds south and +considered my course and distance from yesterday noon north-west +by west half west 94 miles; longitude by account from Tofoa 4 +degrees 29 minutes west.</p> + +<p>For dinner I served some of the damaged bread and a quarter of +a pint of water.</p> + +<p>About six o'clock in the afternoon we discovered two islands, +one bearing west by south 6 leagues and the other north-west by +north 8 leagues; I kept to windward of the northernmost and, +passing it by 10 o'clock, I resumed our course to the north-west +and west-north-west for the night.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 6.</p> + +<p>The weather was fair and the wind moderate all day from the +east-north-east. At daylight a number of other islands were in +sight from south-south-east to the west and round to north-east +by east; between those in the north-west I determined to pass. At +noon a small sandy island or key two miles distant from me bore +from east to south three-quarters west. I had passed ten islands, +the largest of which I judged to be 6 or 8 leagues in circuit. +Much larger lands appeared in the south-west and +north-north-west, between which I directed my course. Latitude +observed 17 degrees 17 minutes south; course since yesterday noon +north 50 degrees west; distance 84 miles; longitude made by +account 5 degrees 37 minutes west.</p> + +<p>Our allowance for the day was a quarter of a pint of coconut +milk and the meat, which did not exceed two ounces to each +person: it was received very contentedly but we suffered great +drought. I durst not venture to land as we had no arms and were +less capable of defending ourselves than we were at Tofoa.</p> + +<p>To keep an account of the boat's run was rendered difficult +from being constantly wet with the sea breaking over us but, as +we advanced towards the land, the sea became smoother and I was +enabled to form a sketch of the islands which will serve to give +a general knowledge of their extent and position. Those we were +near appeared fruitful and hilly, some very mountainous and all +of a good height.</p> + +<p>To our great joy we hooked a fish, but we were miserably +disappointed by its being lost in trying to get it into the +boat.</p> + +<p>We continued steering to the north-west between the islands +which by the evening appeared of considerable extent, woody and +mountainous. At sunset the southernmost bore from south to +south-west by west and the northernmost from north by west half +west to north-east half east. At six o'clock we were nearly +midway between them and about 6 leagues distant from each shore +when we fell in with a coral bank, on which we had only four feet +water, without the least break on it or ruffle of the sea to give +us warning. I could see that it extended about a mile on each +side of us, but as it is probable that it may extend much further +I have laid it down so in my sketch.</p> + +<p>I directed the course west by north for the night, and served +to each person an ounce of the damaged bread and a quarter of a +pint of water for supper.</p> + +<p>As our lodgings were very miserable and confined for want of +room I endeavoured to remedy the latter defect by putting +ourselves at watch and watch; so that one half always sat up +while the other lay down on the boat's bottom or upon a chest, +with nothing to cover us but the heavens. Our limbs were +dreadfully cramped for we could not stretch them out, and the +nights were so cold, and we so constantly wet, that after a few +hours sleep we could scarce move.</p> + +<p>Thursday 7.</p> + +<p>At dawn of day we again discovered land from west-south-west +to west-north-west, and another island north-north-west, the +latter a high round lump of but little extent: the southern land +that we had passed in the night was still in sight. Being very +wet and cold I served a spoonful of rum and a morsel of bread for +breakfast.</p> + +<p>The land in the west was distinguished by some extraordinary +high rocks which, as we approached them, assumed a variety of +forms. The country appeared to be agreeably interspersed with +high and low land, and in some places covered with wood. Off the +north-east part lay some small rocky islands, between which and +an island 4 leagues to the north-east I directed my course; but a +lee current very unexpectedly set us very near to the rocky +isles, and we could only get clear of it by rowing, passing close +to the reef that surrounded them. At this time we observed two +large sailing canoes coming swiftly after us along shore and, +being apprehensive of their intentions, we rowed with some +anxiety, fully sensible of our weak and defenceless state. At +noon it was calm and the weather cloudy; my latitude is therefore +doubtful to 3 or 4 miles. Our course since yesterday noon +north-west by west, distance 79 miles; latitude by account 16 +degrees 29 minutes south, and longitude by account from Tofoa 6 +degrees 46 minutes west. Being constantly wet it was with the +utmost difficulty I could open a book to write, and I am sensible +that what I have done can only serve to point out where these +lands are to be found again, and give an idea of their +extent.</p> + +<p>All the afternoon we had light winds at north-north-east: the +weather was very rainy, attended with thunder and lightning. Only +one of the canoes gained upon us, which by three o'clock in the +afternoon was not more than two miles off, when she gave over +chase.</p> + +<p>If I may judge from the sail of these vessels they are of a +similar construction with those at the Friendly Islands which, +with the nearness of their situation, gives reason to believe +that they are the same kind of people. Whether these canoes had +any hostile intention against us must remain a doubt: perhaps we +might have benefited by an intercourse with them, but in our +defenceless situation to have made the experiment would have been +risking too much.</p> + +<p>I imagine these to be the islands called Feejee as their +extent, direction, and distance from the Friendly Islands answers +to the description given of them by those Islanders. Heavy rain +came on at four o'clock, when every person did their utmost to +catch some water, and we increased our stock to 34 gallons, +besides quenching our thirst for the first time since we had been +at sea; but an attendant consequence made us pass the night very +miserably for, being extremely wet and having no dry things to +shift or cover us, we experienced cold and shiverings scarce to +be conceived. Most fortunately for us the forenoon turned out +fair and we stripped and dried our clothes. The allowance I +issued today was an ounce and a half of pork, a teaspoonful of +rum, half a pint of coconut milk, and an ounce of bread. The rum +though so small in quantity was of the greatest service. A +fishing-line was generally towing from the stern of the boat but +though we saw great numbers of fish we could never catch one.</p> + +<p>At noon I observed in latitude 16 degrees 4 minutes south and +found we had made a course from yesterday noon north 62 degrees +west distance 62 miles; longitude by account from Tofoa 7 degrees +42 minutes west.</p> + +<p>The land passed yesterday and the day before is a group of +islands, 14 or 16 in number, lying between the latitude of 16 +degrees 26 minutes south and 17 degrees 57 minutes south, and in +longitude by my account 4 degrees 47 minutes to 7 degrees 17 +minutes west from Tofoa. Three of these islands are very large, +having from 30 to 40 leagues of sea-coast.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon we cleaned out the boat and it employed us +till sunset to get everything dry and in order. Hitherto I had +issued the allowance by guess, but I now made a pair of scales +with two coconut shells and, having accidentally some +pistol-balls in the boat, 25 of which weighed one pound or 16 +ounces, I adopted one,* as the proportion of weight that each +person should receive of bread at the times I served it. I also +amused all hands with describing the situation of New Guinea and +New Holland, and gave them every information in my power that in +case any accident happened to me those who survived might have +some idea of what they were about, and be able to find their way +to Timor, which at present they knew nothing of more than the +name and some not even that. At night I served a quarter of a +pint of water and half an ounce of bread for supper.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. It weighed 272 grains.)</blockquote> + +<p>Saturday 9.</p> + +<p>In the morning a quarter of a pint of coconut milk and some of +the decayed bread was served for breakfast, and for dinner I +divided the meat of four coconuts with the remainder of the +rotten bread, which was only eatable by such distressed +people.</p> + +<p>At noon I observed the latitude to be 15 degrees 47 minutes +south; course since yesterday north 75 degrees west distance 64 +miles; longitude made by account 8 degrees 45 minutes west.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon I fitted a pair of shrouds for each mast, and +contrived a canvas weather cloth round the boat, and raised the +quarters about nine inches by nailing on the seats of the stern +sheets, which proved of great benefit to us.</p> + +<p>The wind had been moderate all day in the south-east quarter +with fine weather; but about nine o'clock in the evening the +clouds began to gather, and we had a prodigious fall of rain with +severe thunder and lightning. By midnight we caught about twenty +gallons of water. Being miserably wet and cold I served to the +people a teaspoonful of rum each to enable them to bear with +their distressed situation. The weather continued extremely bad +and the wind increased; we spent a very miserable night without +sleep except such as could be got in the midst of rain. The day +brought no relief but its light. The sea broke over us so much +that two men were constantly baling; and we had no choice how to +steer, being obliged to keep before the waves for fear of the +boat filling.</p> + +<p>The allowance now regularly served to each person was one 25th +of a pound of bread and a quarter of a pint of water, at eight in +the morning, at noon, and at sunset. Today I gave about half an +ounce of pork for dinner which, though any moderate person would +have considered only as a mouthful, was divided into three or +four.</p> + +<p>The rain abated towards noon and I observed the latitude to be +15 degrees 17 minutes south; course north 67 degrees west +distance 78 miles; longitude made 10 degrees west.</p> + +<p>The wind continued strong from south-south-east to south-east +with very squally weather and a high breaking sea, so that we +were miserably wet and suffered great cold in the night.</p> + +<p>Monday 11.</p> + +<p>In the morning at daybreak I served to every person a +teaspoonful of rum, our limbs being so cramped that we could +scarce move them. Our situation was now extremely dangerous, the +sea frequently running over our stern, which kept us baling with +all our strength.</p> + +<p>At noon the sun appeared, which gave us as much pleasure as in +a winter's day in England. I issued the 25th of a pound of bread +and a quarter of a pint of water, as yesterday. Latitude observed +14 degrees 50 minutes south; course north 71 degrees west +distance 102 miles; and longitude by account 11 degrees 39 +minutes west from Tofoa.</p> + +<p>In the evening it rained hard and we again experienced a +dreadful night.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 12.</p> + +<p>At length the day came and showed to me a miserable set of +beings, full of wants, without anything to relieve them. Some +complained of great pain in their bowels, and everyone of having +almost lost the use of his limbs. The little sleep we got was no +ways refreshing as we were covered with sea and rain. I served a +spoonful of rum at day-dawn, and the usual allowance of bread and +water for breakfast, dinner, and supper.</p> + +<p>At noon it was almost calm, no sun to be seen, and some of us +shivering with cold. Course since yesterday west by north +distance 89 miles; latitude by account 14 degrees 33 minutes +south; longitude made 13 degrees 9 minutes west. The direction of +our course was to pass to the northward of the New Hebrides.</p> + +<p>The wet weather continued and in the afternoon the wind came +from the southward, blowing fresh in squalls. As there was no +prospect of getting our clothes dried I recommended to everyone +to strip and wring them through the salt water, by which means +they received a warmth that while wet with rain they could not +have.</p> + +<p>This afternoon we saw a kind of fruit on the water which +Nelson told me was the Barringtonia of Forster and, as I saw the +same again in the morning, and some men-of-war birds, I was led +to believe that we were not far from land.</p> + +<p>We continued constantly shipping seas and baling, and were +very wet and cold in the night; but I could not afford the +allowance of rum at daybreak.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 13.</p> + +<p>At noon I had a sight of the sun, latitude 14 degrees 17 +minutes south. Course west by north 79 miles; longitude made 14 +degrees 28 minutes west. All this day we were constantly shipping +water and suffered much cold and shiverings in the night.</p> + +<p>Thursday 14.</p> + +<p>Fresh gales at south-east and gloomy weather with rain and a +high sea. At six in the morning we saw land from south-west by +south eight leagues to north-west by west three-quarters west six +leagues, which soon after appeared to be four islands, one of +them much larger than the others, and all of them high and +remarkable. At noon we discovered a small island and some rocks +bearing north-west by north four leagues, and another island west +eight leagues, so that the whole were six in number; the four I +had first seen bearing from south half east to south-west by +south; our distance three leagues from the nearest island. My +latitude observed was 13 degrees 29 minutes south, and longitude +by account from Tofoa 15 degrees 49 minutes west; course since +yesterday noon north 63 degrees west distance 89 miles. At four +in the afternoon we passed the westernmost island.</p> + +<p>Friday 15.</p> + +<p>At one in the morning another island was discovered bearing +west-north-west five leagues distance, and at eight o'clock we +saw it for the last time bearing north-east seven leagues. A +number of gannets, boobies, and men-of-war birds were seen.</p> + +<p>These islands lie between the latitude of 13 degrees 16 +minutes and 14 degrees 10 minutes south: their longitude +according to my reckoning 15 degrees 51 minutes to 17 degrees 6 +minutes west from the island Tofoa.* The largest island I judged +to be about twenty leagues in circuit, the others five or six. +The easternmost is the smallest island and most remarkable, +having a high sugar loaf hill.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. By making a proportional allowance for the error +afterwards found in the dead reckoning I estimate the longitude +of these islands to be from 167 degrees 17 minutes east to 168 +degrees 34 minutes east from Greenwich.)</blockquote> + +<p>The sight of these islands served only to increase the misery +of our situation. We were very little better than starving with +plenty in view; yet to attempt procuring any relief was attended +with so much danger that prolonging of life, even in the midst of +misery, was thought preferable, while there remained hopes of +being able to surmount our hardships. For my own part I consider +the general run of cloudy and wet weather to be a blessing of +Providence. Hot weather would have caused us to have died with +thirst; and probably being so constantly covered with rain or sea +protected us from that dreadful calamity.</p> + +<p>As I had nothing to assist my memory I could not then +determine whether these islands were a part of the New Hebrides +or not: I believe them to be a new discovery which I have since +found true but, though they were not seen either by Monsieur +Bougainville or Captain Cook, they are so nearly in the +neighbourhood of the New Hebrides that they must be considered as +part of the same group. They are fertile and inhabited, as I saw +smoke in several places.</p> + +<p>The wind was at south-east with rainy weather all day. The +night was very dark, not a star could be seen to steer by, and +the sea broke continually over us. I found it necessary to +counteract as much as possible the effect of the southerly winds +to prevent being driven too near New Guinea, for in general we +were forced to keep so much before the sea that if we had not, at +intervals of moderate weather, steered a more southerly course we +should inevitably from a continuance of the gales have been +thrown in sight of that coast: in which case there would most +probably have been an end to our voyage.</p> + +<p>Saturday 16.</p> + +<p>In addition to our miserable allowance of one 25th of a pound +of bread and a quarter of a pint of water I issued for dinner +about an ounce of salt pork to each person. I was often solicited +for this pork, but I considered it more proper to issue it in +small quantities than to suffer it to be all used at once or +twice, which would have been done if I had allowed it.</p> + +<p>At noon I observed in 13 degrees 33 minutes south, longitude +made from Tofoa 19 degrees 27 minutes west; course north 82 +degrees west, distance 101 miles. The sun breaking out through +the clouds gave us hopes of drying our wet clothes, but the +sunshine was of short duration. We had strong breezes at +south-east by south and dark gloomy weather with storms of +thunder, lightning, and rain. The night was truly horrible, and +not a star to be seen; so that our steerage was uncertain.</p> + +<p>Sunday 17.</p> + +<p>At dawn of day I found every person complaining, and some of +them solicited extra allowance, which I positively refused. Our +situation was miserable: always wet, and suffering extreme cold +in the night without the least shelter from the weather. Being +constantly obliged to bale to keep the boat from filling was +perhaps not to be reckoned an evil as it gave us exercise.</p> + +<p>The little rum we had was of great service: when our nights +were particularly distressing I generally served a teaspoonful or +two to each person: and it was always joyful tidings when they +heard of my intentions.</p> + +<p>At noon a water-spout was very near on board of us. I issued +an ounce of pork in addition to the allowance of bread and water; +but before we began to eat every person stripped and, having +wrung their clothes through the seawater, found much warmth and +refreshment. Course since yesterday noon west-south-west distance +100 miles; latitude by account 14 degrees 11 minutes south and +longitude made 21 degrees 3 minutes west.</p> + +<p>The night was dark and dismal: the sea constantly breaking +over us and nothing but the wind and waves to direct our +steerage. It was my intention if possible to make New Holland to +the southward of Endeavour straits, being sensible that it was +necessary to preserve such a situation as would make a southerly +wind a fair one, that we might range along the reefs till an +opening should be found into smooth water, and we the sooner be +able to pick up some refreshments.</p> + +<p>Monday 18.</p> + +<p>In the morning the rain abated, when we stripped and wrung our +clothes through the seawater as usual, which refreshed us +greatly. Every person complained of violent pain in their bones; +I was only surprised that no one was yet laid up. The customary +allowance of one 25th of a pound of bread and a quarter of a pint +of water was served at breakfast, dinner, and supper.</p> + +<p>At noon I deduced my situation by account, for we had no +glimpse of the sun, to be in latitude 14 degrees 52 minutes +south; course since yesterday noon west-south-west 106 miles; +longitude made from Tofoa 22 degrees 45 minutes west. Saw many +boobies and noddies, a sign of being in the neighbourhood of +land. In the night we had very severe lightning with heavy rain +and were obliged to keep baling without intermission.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 19.</p> + +<p>Very bad weather and constant rain. At noon latitude by +account 14 degrees 37 minutes south; course since yesterday north +81 degrees west, distance 100 miles; longitude made 24 degrees 30 +minutes west. With the allowance of bread and water served half +an ounce of pork to each person for dinner.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 20.</p> + +<p>Fresh breezes east-north-east with constant rain, at times a +deluge. Always baling.</p> + +<p>At dawn of day some of my people seemed half dead: our +appearances were horrible, and I could look no way but I caught +the eye of someone in distress. Extreme hunger was now too +evident, but no one suffered from thirst, nor had we much +inclination to drink, that desire perhaps being satisfied through +the skin. The little sleep we got was in the midst of water, and +we constantly awoke with severe cramps and pains in our bones. +This morning I served about two teaspoonfuls of rum to each +person and the allowance of bread and water as usual. At noon the +sun broke out and revived everyone. I found we were in latitude +14 degrees 49 minutes south; longitude made 25 degrees 46 minutes +west; course south 88 degrees west distance 75 miles.</p> + +<p>All the afternoon we were so covered with rain and salt water +that we could scarcely see. We suffered extreme cold and everyone +dreaded the approach of night. Sleep, though we longed for it, +afforded no comfort: for my own part I almost lived without +it.</p> + +<p>Thursday 21.</p> + +<p>About two o'clock in the morning we were overwhelmed with a +deluge of rain. It fell so heavy that we were afraid it would +fill the boat, and were obliged to bale with all our might. At +dawn of day I served a larger allowance of rum. Towards noon the +rain abated and the sun shone, but we were miserably cold and +wet, the sea breaking constantly over us so that, notwithstanding +the heavy rain, we had not been able to add to our stock of fresh +water. Latitude by observation 14 degrees 29 minutes south, and +longitude made by account from Tofoa 27 degrees 25 minutes west; +course since yesterday noon north 78 degrees west 99 miles. I now +considered myself nearly on a meridian with the east part of New +Guinea.</p> + +<p>Friday 22.</p> + +<p>Strong gales from east-south-east to south-south-east, a high +sea, and dark dismal night.</p> + +<p>Our situation this day was extremely calamitous. We were +obliged to take the course of the sea, running right before it +and watching with the utmost care as the least error in the helm +would in a moment have been our destruction.</p> + +<p>At noon it blew very hard and the foam of the sea kept running +over our stern and quarters; I however got propped up and made an +observation of the latitude in 14 degrees 17 minutes south; +course north 85 degrees west distance 130 miles; longitude made +29 degrees 38 minutes west.</p> + +<p>The misery we suffered this night exceeded the preceding. The +sea flew over us with great force and kept us baling with horror +and anxiety.</p> + +<p>Saturday 23.</p> + +<p>At dawn of day I found everyone in a most distressed +condition, and I began to fear that another such night would put +an end to the lives of several who seemed no longer able to +support their sufferings. I served an allowance of two +teaspoonfuls of rum, after drinking which, having wrung our +clothes and taken our breakfast of bread and water, we became a +little refreshed.</p> + +<p>Towards noon the weather became fair, but with very little +abatement of the gale and the sea remained equally high. With +some difficulty I observed the latitude to be 13 degrees 44 +minutes south: course since yesterday noon north 74 degrees west, +distance 116 miles; longitude made 31 degrees 32 minutes west +from Tofoa.</p> + +<p>The wind moderated in the evening and the weather looked much +better, which rejoiced all hands so that they ate their scanty +allowance with more satisfaction than for some time past. The +night also was fair but, being always wet with the sea, we +suffered much from the cold.</p> + +<p>Sunday 24.</p> + +<p>A fine morning, I had the pleasure to see, produced some +cheerful countenances and, the first time for 15 days past, we +experienced comfort from the warmth of the sun. We stripped and +hung our clothes up to dry, which were by this time become so +threadbare that they would not keep out either wet or cold.</p> + +<p>At noon I observed in latitude 13 degrees 33 minutes south; +longitude by account from Tofoa 33 degrees 28 minutes west; +course north 84 degrees west, distance 114 miles. With the usual +allowance of bread and water for dinner I served an ounce of pork +to each person. This afternoon we had many birds about us which +are never seen far from land, such as boobies and noddies.</p> + +<p>ALLOWANCE LESSENED.</p> + +<p>As the sea began to run fair, and we shipped but little water, +I took the opportunity to examine into the state of our bread and +found that, according to the present mode of issuing, there was a +sufficient quantity remaining for 29 days allowance, by which +time I hoped we should be able to reach Timor. But as this was +very uncertain and it was possible that, after all, we might be +obliged to go to Java, I determined to proportion the allowance +so as to make our stock hold out six weeks. I was apprehensive +that this would be ill received, and that it would require my +utmost resolution to enforce it for, small as the quantity was +which I intended to take away for our future good, yet it might +appear to my people like robbing them of life, and some, who were +less patient than their companions, I expected would very ill +brook it. However on my representing the necessity of guarding +against delays that might be occasioned in our voyage by contrary +winds, or other causes, and promising to enlarge upon the +allowance as we got on, they cheerfully agreed to my proposal. It +was accordingly settled that every person should receive one 25th +of a pound of bread for breakfast, and the same quantity for +dinner, so that by omitting the proportion for supper, we had 43 +days allowance.</p> + +<p>Monday 25.</p> + +<p>At noon some noddies came so near to us that one of them was +caught by hand. This bird was about the size of a small pigeon. I +divided it with its entrails into 18 portions, and by a +well-known method at sea of Who shall have this?* it was +distributed with the allowance of bread and water for dinner, and +ate up bones and all, with salt water for sauce. I observed the +latitude 13 degrees 32 minutes south; longitude made 35 degrees +19 minutes west; course north 89 degrees west, distance 108 +miles.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. One person turns his back on the object that is to +be divided: another then points separately to the portions, and +each of them asking aloud, "Who shall have this?" to which the +first answers by naming somebody. This impartial method of +division gives every man an equal chance of the best share.)</blockquote> + +<p>In the evening several boobies flying very near to us we had +the good fortune to catch one of them. This bird is as large as a +duck: like the noddy it has received its name from seamen for +suffering itself to be caught on the masts and yards of ships. +They are the most presumptive proofs of being in the +neighbourhood of land of any seafowl we are acquainted with. I +directed the bird to be killed for supper, and the blood to be +given to three of the people who were the most distressed for +want of food. The body, with the entrails, beak, and feet, I +divided into 18 shares, and with an allowance of bread, which I +made a merit of granting, we made a good supper, compared with +our usual fare.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 26.</p> + +<p>Fresh breezes from the south-east with fine weather. In the +morning we caught another booby so that Providence appeared to be +relieving our wants in an extraordinary manner. Towards noon we +passed a great many pieces of the branches of trees, some of +which appeared to have been no long time in the water. I had a +good observation for the latitude, and found our situation to be +in 13 degrees 41 minutes south; longitude by account from Tofoa +37 degrees 13 minutes west; course south 85 degrees west, 112 +miles. The people were overjoyed at the addition to their dinner +which was distributed in the same manner as on the preceding +evening, giving the blood to those who were the most in want of +food.</p> + +<p>To make the bread a little savoury most of the people +frequently dipped it in salt water; but I generally broke mine +into small pieces and ate it in my allowance of water, out of a +coconut shell with a spoon, economically avoiding to take too +large a piece at a time, so that I was as long at dinner as if it +had been a much more plentiful meal.</p> + +<p>The weather was now serene, which nevertheless was not without +its inconveniences, for we began to feel distress of a different +kind from that which we had lately been accustomed to suffer. The +heat of the sun was so powerful that several of the people were +seized with a languor and faintness which made life indifferent. +We were so fortunate as to catch two boobies in the evening: +their stomachs contained several flying-fish and small +cuttlefish, all of which I saved to be divided for dinner the +next day.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 27.</p> + +<p>A fresh breeze at east-south-east with fair weather. We passed +much driftwood this forenoon and saw many birds; I therefore did +not hesitate to pronounce that we were near the reefs of New +Holland. From my recollection of Captain Cook's survey of this +coast I considered the direction of it to be north-west, and I +was therefore satisfied that, with the wind to the southward of +east, I could always clear any dangers.</p> + +<p>At noon I observed in latitude 13 degrees 26 minutes south; +course since yesterday north 82 degrees west, distance 109 miles; +longitude made 39 degrees 4 minutes. After writing my account I +divided the two birds with their entrails and the contents of +their maws into 18 portions and, as the prize was a very valuable +one it was divided as before, by calling out Who shall have this? +so that today, with the allowance of a 25th of a pound of bread +at breakfast, and another at dinner, with the proportion of +water, I was happy to see that every person thought he had +feasted.</p> + +<p>In the evening we saw a gannet; and the clouds remained so +fixed in the west that I had little doubt of our being near the +land. The people, after taking their allowance of water for +supper, amused themselves with conversing on the probability of +what we should find.</p> + +<p>Thursday 28.</p> + +<p>At one in the morning the person at the helm heard the sound +of breakers, and I no sooner lifted up my head than I saw them +close under our lee, not more than a quarter of a mile distant +from us. I immediately hauled on a wind to the north-north-east +and in ten minutes time we could neither see nor hear them.</p> + +<p>I have already mentioned my reason for making New Holland so +far to the southward: for I never doubted of numerous openings in +the reef through which I could have access to the shore and, +knowing the inclination of the coast to be to the north-west and +the wind mostly to the southward of east, I could with ease range +such a barrier of reefs till I should find a passage, which now +became absolutely necessary, without a moment's loss of time. The +idea of getting into smooth water and finding refreshments kept +my people's spirits up: their joy was very great after we had got +clear of the breakers to which we had approached much nearer than +I thought was possible, without first discovering them.</p> + +<p>Friday 29.</p> + +<p>In the morning at daylight, we could see nothing of the land +or of the reefs. We bore away again and at nine o'clock saw the +reefs. The sea broke furiously over every part, and we had no +sooner got near to them than the wind came at east, so that we +could only lie along the line of the breakers, within which we +saw the water so smooth that every person already anticipated the +heart-felt satisfaction he should receive as soon as we could get +within them. I now found we were embayed for we could not lie +clear with the sails, the wind having backed against us; and the +sea set in so heavy towards the reef that our situation was +become unsafe. We could effect but little with the oars, having +scarce strength to pull them, and I began to apprehend that we +should be obliged to attempt pushing over the reef. Even this I +did not despair of effecting with success when happily we +discovered a break in the reef, about one mile from us, and at +the same time an island of a moderate height within it, nearly in +the same direction, bearing west half north. I entered the +passage with a strong stream running to the westward and found it +about a quarter of a mile broad, with every appearance of deep +water.</p> + +<p>On the outside the reef inclined to the north-east for a few +miles, and from thence to the north-west: on the south side of +the entrance it inclined to the south-south-west as far as I +could see it, and I conjecture that a similar passage to this +which we now entered may be found near the breakers that I first +discovered which are 23 miles south of this channel.</p> + +<p>I did not recollect what latitude Providential channel* lies +in, but I considered it to be within a few miles of this, which +is situate in 12 degrees 51 minutes south latitude.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Providential Channel is laid down by Captain Cook +in 12 degrees 34 minutes south, longitude 143 degrees 33 minutes +east.)</blockquote> + +<p>Being now happily within the reefs and in smooth water I +endeavoured to keep near them to try for fish, but the tide set +us to the north-west, I therefore bore away in that direction +and, having promised to land on the first convenient spot we +could find, all our past hardships seemed already to be +forgotten.</p> + +<p>At noon I had a good observation by which our latitude was 12 +degrees 46 minutes south, whence the foregoing situations may be +considered as determined with some exactness. The island first +seen bore west-south-west five leagues. This, which I have called +the island Direction, will in fair weather always show the +channel, from which it bears due west, and may be seen as soon as +the reefs from a ship's masthead: it lies in the latitude of 12 +degrees 51 minutes south. These however are marks too small for a +ship to hit unless it can hereafter be ascertained that passages +through the reef are numerous along the coast which I am inclined +to think they are, in which case there would be little risk even +if the wind was directly on the shore.</p> + +<p>My longitude made by dead reckoning from the island Tofoa to +our passage through the reef is 40 degrees 10 minutes west. +Providential channel, I imagine, must lie very nearly under the +same meridian with our passage, by which it appears we had +out-run our reckoning 1 degree 9 minutes.</p> + +<p>We now returned God thanks for his gracious protection, and +with much content took our miserable allowance of a 25th of a +pound of bread and a quarter of a pint of water for dinner.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a name="ch16"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 16.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>Progress to the Northward along the Coast of New Holland. +Land on different Islands in search of Supplies.</b></blockquote> + +<p>May 1789.</p> + +<p>As we advanced within the reefs the coast began to show itself +very distinctly in a variety of high and low land, some parts of +which were covered with wood. In our way towards the shore we +fell in with a point of a reef which is connected with that +towards the sea, and here we came to a grapnel and tried to catch +fish but had no success. The island Direction at this time bore +south three or four leagues. Two islands lay about four miles to +the west by north, and appeared eligible for a resting-place, if +for nothing more; but on our approach to the nearest island it +proved to be only a heap of stones, and its size too +inconsiderable to shelter the boat. We therefore proceeded to the +next, which was close to it and towards the main. On the +north-west side of this I found a bay and a fine sandy point to +land at. Our distance was about a quarter of a mile from a +projecting part of the main, which bore from south-west by south +to north-north-west three-quarters west. We landed to examine if +there were any signs of the natives being near us: we saw some +old fireplaces but nothing to make me apprehend that this would +be an unsafe situation for the night. Everyone was anxious to +find something to eat, and it was soon discovered that there were +oysters on the rocks for the tide was out; but it was nearly dark +and only a few could be gathered. I determined therefore to wait +till the morning, when I should better know how to proceed, and I +directed that one half of our company should sleep on shore and +the other half in the boat. We would gladly have made a fire but, +as we could not accomplish it, we took our rest for the night, +which happily was calm and undisturbed.</p> + +<p>Friday 29.</p> + +<p>The dawn of day brought greater strength and spirits to us +than I expected for, notwithstanding everyone was very weak, +there appeared strength sufficient remaining to make me conceive +the most favourable hopes of our being able to surmount the +difficulties we might yet have to encounter.</p> + +<p>As there were no appearances to make me imagine that any of +the natives were near us I sent out parties in search of +supplies, while others of the people were putting the boat in +order that we might be ready to go to sea, in case any unforeseen +cause should make it necessary. One of the gudgeons of the rudder +had come out in the course of the night and was lost. This, if it +had happened at sea, might have been attended with the most +serious consequences, as the management of the boat could not +have been so nicely preserved as these very heavy seas required. +I had been apprehensive of this accident, and had in some measure +prepared for it, by having grummets fixed on each quarter of the +boat for oars; but our utmost readiness in using them would not +probably have saved us. It appears therefore a providential +circumstance that it happened in a place of safety, and that it +was in our power to remedy the defect; for by great good luck we +found a large staple in the boat, which answered the purpose.</p> + +<p>The parties returned, highly rejoiced at having found plenty +of oysters and fresh water. I had also made a fire by the help of +a small magnifying glass and, what was still more fortunate, we +found among the few things which had been thrown into the boat +and saved a piece of brimstone and a tinderbox, so that I secured +fire for the future.</p> + +<p>One of the people had been so provident as to bring away with +him from the ship a copper pot: by being in possession of this +article we were enabled to make a proper use of the supply we now +obtained for, with a mixture of bread and a little pork, we made +a stew that might have been relished by people of far more +delicate appetites, and of which each person received a full +pint.</p> + +<p>The general complaints of disease among us were a dizziness in +the head, great weakness of the joints, and violent tenesmus, +most of us having had no evacuation by stool since we left the +ship. I had constantly a severe pain at my stomach but none of +our complaints were alarming: on the contrary, everyone retained +marks of strength that, with a mind possessed of a tolerable +share of fortitude, seemed able to bear more fatigue than I +imagined we should have to undergo in our voyage to Timor.</p> + +<p>As I would not allow the people to expose themselves to the +heat of the sun, it being near noon, everyone took his allotment +of earth where it was shaded by the bushes for a short sleep.</p> + +<p>The oysters which we found grew so fast to the rocks that it +was with difficulty they could be broken off, and at length we +discovered it to be the most expeditious way to open them where +they were fixed. They were of a good size, and well tasted. To +add to this happy circumstance in the hollow of the land there +grew some wire-grass, which indicated a moist situation. On +forcing a stick, about three feet long, into the ground we found +water, and with little trouble dug a well which produced as much +as our occasions required. It was very good, but I could not +determine if it was a spring or not. We were not obliged to make +the well deep for it flowed as fast as we emptied it, which, as +the soil was apparently too loose to retain water from the rains, +renders it probable to be a spring. On the south side of the +island likewise we found a small run of good water.</p> + +<p>Besides places where fires had been made there were other +signs of the natives sometimes resorting to this island. I saw +two ill-constructed huts or wigwams which had only one side +loosely covered, and a pointed stick was found, about three feet +long, with a slit in the end of it to sling stones with, the same +as the natives of Van Diemen's land use.</p> + +<p>The track of some animal was very discernible and Nelson +agreed with me that it was the kangaroo; but whether these +animals swim over from the mainland, or are brought here by the +natives to breed, it is impossible to determine. The latter is +not improbable as they may be taken with less difficulty in a +confined spot like this than on the continent.</p> + +<p>The island is about a league in circuit: it is a high lump of +rocks and stones covered with wood; but the trees are small, the +soil, which is very indifferent and sandy, being barely +sufficient to produce them. The trees that came within our +knowledge were the manchineal and a species of purow; also some +palm trees, the tops of which we cut down, and the soft interior +part or heart of them was so palatable that it made a good +addition to our mess. Nelson discovered some fern-roots which I +thought might be good roasted as a substitute for bread, but in +this I was mistaken: it however was very serviceable in its +natural state to allay thirst, and on that account I directed a +quantity to be collected to take into the boat. Many pieces of +coconut shells and husk were found about the shore, but we could +find no coconut trees, neither did I see any on the main.</p> + +<p>I had cautioned the people not to touch any kind of berry or +fruit that they might find; yet they were no sooner out of my +sight than they began to make free with three different kinds +that grew all over the island, eating without any reserve. The +symptoms of having eaten too much began at last to frighten some +of them but, on questioning others who had taken a more moderate +allowance, their minds were a little quieted. The others however +became equally alarmed in their turn, dreading that such symptoms +would come on, and that they were all poisoned, so that they +regarded each other with the strongest marks of apprehension, +uncertain what would be the issue of their imprudence. +Fortunately the fruit proved wholesome and good. One sort grew on +a small delicate kind of vine; they were the size of a large +gooseberry and very like in substance, but had only a sweet +taste; the skin was a pale red, streaked with yellow the long way +of the fruit: it was pleasant and agreeable. Another kind grew on +bushes like that which is called the seaside grape in the West +Indies, but the fruit was very different, being more like +elderberries, and grew in clusters in the same manner. The third +sort was a blackberry; this was not in such plenty as the others +and resembled a bullace, or large kind of sloe, both in size and +taste. When I saw that these fruits were eaten by the birds I no +longer doubted of their being wholesome, and those who had +already tried the experiment, not finding any bad effect, made it +a certainty that we might eat of them without danger.</p> + +<p>Wild pigeons, parrots, and other birds were about the summit +of the island but, having no firearms, relief of that kind was +not to be expected unless we should find some unfrequented spot +where the birds were so tame that we might take them with our +hands.</p> + +<p>The shore of this island is very rocky except the place at +which we landed, and here I picked up many pieces of +pumice-stone. On the part of the main nearest to us were several +sandy bays which at low water became an extensive rocky flat. The +country had rather a barren appearance except in a few places +where it was covered with wood. A remarkable range of rocks lay a +few miles to the south-west, and a high peaked hill seemed to +terminate the coast towards the sea, with islands to the +southward. A high fair cape showed the direction of the coast to +the north-west about seven leagues distant; and two small isles +lay three or four leagues to the northward of our present +station.</p> + +<p>I saw a few bees or wasps and several lizards; and the +blackberry bushes were full of ants nests, webbed like a spider's +but so close and compact as not to admit the rain. A trunk of a +tree about 50 feet long lay on the beach, from which I conclude +that a heavy sea sets in here with a northerly wind.</p> + +<p>This day being the anniversary of the restoration of King +Charles the Second, and the name not being inapplicable to our +present situation (for we were restored to fresh life and +strength) I named this Restoration Island; for I thought it +probable that Captain Cook might not have taken notice of it. The +other names which I have presumed to give the different parts of +the coast are meant only to show my route more distinctly.</p> + +<p>At noon I observed the latitude of the island to be 12 degrees +39 minutes south, our course having been north 66 degrees west, +distance 18 miles from yesterday noon. The wind was at +east-south-east with very fine weather.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon I sent parties out again to gather oysters, +with which and some of the inner part of the palm-top we made +another good stew for supper, each person receiving a full pint +and a half; but I refused bread to this meal for I considered +that our wants might yet be very great, and was intent on saving +our principal support whenever it was in my power. After supper +we again divided and those who were on shore slept by a good +fire.</p> + +<p>Saturday 30.</p> + +<p>In the morning I discovered a visible alteration in our +company for the better, and I sent them away again to gather +oysters. We had now only two pounds of pork left. This article, +which I could not keep under lock and key as I did the bread, had +been pilfered by some inconsiderate person, but everyone denied +having any knowledge of this act; I therefore resolved to put it +out of their power for the future by sharing what remained for +our dinner. While the party was out picking up oysters I got the +boat in readiness for sea, and filled all our water vessels, +which amounted to nearly 60 gallons.</p> + +<p>The party being returned, dinner was soon ready, which was as +plentiful a meal as the supper on the preceding evening, and with +the pork I gave an allowance of bread. As it was not yet noon I +sent the people once more to gather oysters for a sea store, +recommending to them to be as diligent as possible for that I was +determined to sail in the afternoon.</p> + +<p>At noon I again observed the latitude 12 degrees 39 minutes +south; it was then high-water, the tide had risen three feet, but +I could not be certain from whence the flood came. I deduce the +time of high-water at full and change to be ten minutes past +seven in the morning.</p> + +<p>Early in the afternoon the people returned with the few +oysters that they had collected and everything was put into the +boat. I then examined the quantity of bread remaining and found +38 days allowance, according to the last mode of issuing a 25th +of a pound at breakfast and at dinner.</p> + +<p>Fair weather and moderate breezes at east-south-east and +south-east.</p> + +<p>Being ready for sea I directed every person to attend prayers. +At four o'clock we were preparing to embark when about twenty of +the natives appeared, running and hallooing to us, on the +opposite shore. They were each armed with a spear or lance and a +short weapon which they carried in their left hand: they made +signs for us to come to them. On the top of the hills we saw the +heads of many more: whether these were their wives and children +or others who waited for our landing, meaning not to show +themselves lest we might be intimidated, I cannot say but, as I +found we were discovered to be on the coast, I thought it prudent +to make the best of our way for fear of being pursued by canoes, +though, from the accounts of Captain Cook, the chance was that +there were very few if any of consequence on any part of the +coast. I passed these people as near as I could with safety: they +were naked and apparently black, and their hair or wool bushy and +short.</p> + +<p>I directed my course within two small islands that lie to the +north of Restoration Island, passing between them and the +mainland towards Fair Cape with a strong tide in my favour, so +that I was abreast of it by eight o'clock. The coast we passed +was high and woody. As I could see no land without Fair Cape I +concluded that the coast inclined to the north-west and +west-north-west: I therefore steered more towards the west; but +by eleven o'clock at night we met with low land which inclined to +the north-east, and at three o'clock in the morning I found that +we were embayed, which obliged us to stand back for a short time +to the southward.</p> + +<p>Sunday 31.</p> + +<p>At daybreak I was exceedingly surprised to find the appearance +of the country entirely changed, as if in the course of the night +we had been transported to another part of the world; for we had +now a low sandy coast in view, with very little verdure or +anything to indicate that it was at all habitable to a human +being except a few patches of small trees or brushwood.</p> + +<p>Many small islands were in sight to the north-east about six +miles distant. The eastern part of the main bore north four +miles, and Fair Cape south-south-east five or six leagues. I took +the channel between the nearest island and the mainland, which +were about one mile apart, leaving all the islands on the +starboard side. Some of these were very pretty spots, covered +with wood and well situated for fishing: large shoals of fish +were about us but we could not catch any. In passing this strait +we saw another party of Indians, seven in number, running towards +us, shouting and making signs for us to land. Some of them waved +green branches of the bushes which were near them as a token of +friendship; but some of their other motions were less friendly. A +little farther off we saw a larger party who likewise came +towards us. I therefore determined not to land though I much +wished to have had some intercourse with these people. +Nevertheless I laid the boat close to the rocks and beckoned to +them to approach but none of them would come within 200 yards of +us. They were armed in the same manner as the people we had seen +from Restoration Island; they were stark naked, their colour +black, with short bushy hair or wool, and in their appearance +were similar to them in every respect. An island of a good height +bore north half west four miles from us, at which I resolved to +land and from thence to take a look at the coast. At this isle we +arrived about eight o'clock in the morning. The shore was rocky +but the water was smooth and we landed without difficulty. I sent +two parties out, one to the northward and the other to the +southward, to seek for supplies, and others I ordered to stay by +the boat. On this occasion fatigue and weakness so far got the +better of their sense of duty that some of the people expressed +their discontent at having worked harder than their companions, +and declared that they would rather be without their dinner than +go in search of it. One person in particular went so far as to +tell me, with a mutinous look, that he was as good a man as +myself. It was not possible for me to judge where this might have +an end if not stopped in time, therefore to prevent such disputes +in future I determined either to preserve my command or die in +the attempt and, seizing a cutlass, I ordered him to take hold of +another and defend himself, on which he called out that I was +going to kill him and immediately made concessions. I did not +allow this to interfere further with the harmony of the boat's +crew and everything soon became quiet.</p> + +<p>The parties continued collecting what they could find, which +were some fine oysters and clams and a few small dog-fish that +were caught in the holes of the rocks. We also found some +rainwater in the hollow of the rocks on the north part of the +island, so that of this essential article we were again so +fortunate as to obtain a full supply.</p> + +<p>After regulating the mode of proceeding I walked to the +highest part of the island to consider our route for the night. +To my surprise no more of the mainland could be seen here than +from below, the northernmost part in sight, which was full of +sandhills bearing west by north about three leagues. Except the +isles to the east-south-east and south that we had passed I could +only discover a small key north-west by north. As this was +considerably farther from the main than the spot on which we were +at present I judged it would be a more secure resting-place for +the night, for here we were liable to an attack, if the Indians +had canoes, as they undoubtedly must have observed our landing. +My mind being made up on this point I returned after taking a +particular look at the island we were on, which I found only to +produce a few bushes and some coarse grass, the extent of the +whole not being two miles in circuit. On the north side in a +sandy bay I saw an old canoe about 33 feet long, lying bottom +upwards and half buried in the beach. It was made of three +pieces, the bottom entire, to which the sides were sewed in the +common way. It had a sharp projecting prow rudely carved in +resemblance of the head of a fish; the extreme breadth was about +three feet and I imagine it was capable of carrying 20 men. The +discovery of so large a canoe confirmed me in the purpose of +seeking a more retired place for our night's lodging.</p> + +<p>At noon the parties were all returned but had found much +difficulty in gathering the oysters from their close adherence to +the rocks, and the clams were scarce: I therefore saw that it +would be of little use to remain longer in this place, as we +should not be able to collect more than we could eat. I named +this Sunday Island: it lies north by west three-quarters west +from Restoration Island; the latitude by a good observation 11 +degrees 58 minutes south.</p> + +<p>We had a fresh breeze at south-east by south with fair +weather. At two o'clock in the afternoon we dined, each person +having a full pint and a half of stewed oysters and clams, +thickened with small beans which Nelson informed me were a +species of Dolichos. Having eaten heartily and completed our +water I waited to determine the time of high-water, which I found +to be at three o'clock, and the rise of the tide about five feet. +According to this it is high-water on the full and change at 19 +minutes past 9 in the morning: I observed the flood to come from +the southward, though at Restoration Island I thought it came +from the northward. I think Captain Cook mentions that he found +great irregularity in the set of the flood on this coast.</p> + +<p>We steered for the key seen in the north-west by north where +we arrived just at dark, but found it so surrounded by a reef of +rocks that I could not land without danger of staving the boat; +and on that account we came to a grapnel for the night.</p> + +<p>Monday June 1.</p> + +<p>At dawn of day we got on shore and tracked the boat into +shelter for, the wind blowing fresh without and the ground being +rocky, it was not safe to trust her at a grapnel lest she should +be blown to sea: I was therefore obliged to let her ground in the +course of the ebb. From appearances I expected that if we +remained till night we should meet with turtle as we discovered +recent tracks of them. Innumerable birds of a noddy kind made +this island their resting-place; so that we had reason to flatter +ourselves with hopes of getting supplies in greater abundance +than it had hitherto been in our power. Our situation was at +least four leagues distant from the main. We were on the +north-westernmost of four small keys which were surrounded by a +reef of rocks connected by sandbanks except between the two +northernmost, and there likewise it was dry at low water, the +whole forming a lagoon island into which the tide flowed: at this +entrance I kept the boat.</p> + +<p>As usual I sent parties away in search of supplies but, to our +great disappointment, we could only get a few clams and some +dolichos: with these and the oysters we had brought from Sunday +Island I made up a mess for dinner with the addition of a small +quantity of bread.</p> + +<p>Towards noon Nelson and some others who had been to the +easternmost key returned, but Nelson was in so weak a condition +that he was obliged to be supported by two men. His complaint was +a violent heat in his bowels, a loss of sight, much drought, and +an inability to walk. This I found was occasioned by his being +unable to support the heat of the sun and that, when he was +fatigued and faint, instead of retiring into the shade to rest he +had continued to attempt more than his strength was equal to. I +was glad to find that he had no fever; and it was now that the +little wine which I had so carefully saved became of real use. I +gave it in very small quantities with some pieces of bread soaked +in it; and he soon began to recover. The boatswain and carpenter +also were ill and complained of headache and sickness of the +stomach. Others who had not had any evacuation by stool became +shockingly distressed with the tenesmus so that there were but +few without complaints. An idea prevailed that the sickness of +the boatswain and carpenter was occasioned by eating the +dolichos. Myself however and some others who had taken the same +food felt no inconvenience; but the truth was that many of the +people had eaten a large quantity of them raw, and Nelson +informed me that they were constantly teasing him whenever a +berry was found to know if it was good to eat; so that it would +not have been surprising if many of them had been really +poisoned.</p> + +<p>Our dinner was not so well relished as at Sunday Island +because we had mixed the dolichos with our stew. The oysters and +soup however were eaten by everyone except Nelson whom I fed with +a few small pieces of bread soaked in half a glass of wine, and +he continued to mend.</p> + +<p>In my walk round the island I found several coconut shells, +the remains of an old wigwam, and the backs of two turtles, but +no sign of any quadruped. One of the people found three seafowl's +eggs.</p> + +<p>As is common on such spots the soil is little other than sand, +yet it produced small toa-trees and some others that we were not +acquainted with. There were fish in the lagoon, but we could not +catch any. Our wants therefore were not likely to be supplied +here, not even with water for our daily expense: nevertheless I +determined to wait till the morning, that we might try our +success in the night for turtle and birds. A quiet night's rest +also, I conceived, would be of essential service to those who +were unwell.</p> + +<p>The wigwam and turtle shell were proofs that the natives at +times visited this place, and that they had canoes the remains of +the large canoe that we saw at Sunday Island left no room to +doubt: but I did not apprehend that we ran any risk by remaining +here a short time. I directed our fire however to be made in the +thicket that we might not be discovered by its light.</p> + +<p>At noon I observed the latitude of this island to be 11 +degrees 47 minutes south. The mainland extended towards the +north-west and was full of white sandhills: another small island +lay within us, bearing west by north one quarter north three +leagues distant. Our situation being very low we could see +nothing of the reef towards the sea.</p> + +<p>The afternoon was advantageously spent in sleep. There were +however a few not disposed to it, and those were employed in +dressing some clams to take with us for the next day's dinner: +others we cut up in slices to dry, which I knew was the most +valuable supply we could find here, but they were very +scarce.</p> + +<p>Towards evening I cautioned everyone against making too large +a fire or suffering it after dark to blaze up. Mr. Samuel and Mr. +Peckover had superintendence of this business, while I was +strolling about the beach to observe if I thought it could be +seen from the main. I was just satisfied that it could not when +on a sudden the island appeared all in a blaze that might have +been discerned at a much more considerable distance. I ran to +learn the cause and found that it was occasioned by the +imprudence and obstinacy of one of the party who in my absence +had insisted on having a fire to himself, in making which the +flames caught the neighbouring grass and rapidly spread. This +misconduct might have produced very serious consequences by +discovering our situation to the natives for, if they had +attacked us, we had neither arms nor strength to oppose an enemy. +Thus the relief which I expected from a little sleep was totally +lost and I anxiously waited for the flowing of the tide that we +might proceed to sea.</p> + +<p>It was high-water at half-past five this evening whence I +deduced the time on the full and change of the moon to be 58 past +10 in the morning: the rise was nearly five feet. I could not +observe the set of the flood but imagined it to come from the +southward, and that I was mistaken at Restoration Island as I +found the time of high-water gradually later the more we advanced +to the northward.</p> + +<p>At Restoration Island high-water full and change : 7 hours 10. +Sunday Island high-water full and change : 9 hours 19. Here +high-water full and change : 10 hours 58.</p> + +<p>After eight o'clock Mr. Samuel and Mr. Peckover went out to +watch for turtle and three men went to the east key to endeavour +to catch birds. All the others, complaining of being sick, took +their rest, except Mr. Hayward and Mr. Elphinston whom I directed +to keep watch. About midnight the bird party returned with only +twelve noddies, birds which I have already described to be about +the size of pigeons: but if it had not been for the folly and +obstinacy of one of the party, who separated from the other two +and disturbed the birds, they might have caught a great number. I +was so much provoked at my plans being thus defeated that I gave +this offender a good beating.* I now went in search of the +turtling party who had taken great pains but without success. +This did not surprise me as it was not to be expected that turtle +would come near us after the noise which had been made at the +beginning of the evening in extinguishing the fire. I therefore +desired them to come back, but they requested to stay a little +longer as they still hoped to find some before daylight: however +they returned by three o'clock without any reward for their +labour.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Robert Lamb. This man when he came to Java +acknowledged he had eaten nine birds raw after he separated from +his two companions.)</blockquote> + +<p>Tuesday 2.</p> + +<p>The birds we half dressed that they might keep the better: and +these with a few clams made the whole of the supply procured +here. I tied a few gilt buttons and some pieces of iron to a tree +for any of the natives that might come after us and, finding my +invalids much better for their night's rest, we embarked and +departed by dawn of day. Wind at south-east; course to the north +by west.</p> + +<p>When we had run two leagues to the northward the sea suddenly +became rough which, not having before experienced since we were +within the reefs, I concluded to be occasioned by an open channel +to the ocean. Soon afterwards we met with a large shoal on which +were two sandy keys; between these and two others, four miles to +the west, I passed on to the northward, the sea still continuing +to be rough.</p> + +<p>Towards noon I fell in with six other keys, most of which +produced some small trees and brushwood. These formed a pleasing +contrast with the mainland we had passed which was full of +sandhills. The country continued hilly and the northernmost land, +the same we had seen from the lagoon island, appeared like downs, +sloping towards the sea. Nearly abreast of us was a flat-topped +hill which on account of its shape I called Pudding-pan hill; and +a little to the northward were two other hills which we called +the Paps; and here was a small tract of country without sand, the +eastern part of which forms a cape whence the coast inclines to +the north-west by north.</p> + +<p>At noon I observed in the latitude of 11 degrees 18 minutes +south the cape bearing west distant ten miles. Five small keys +bore from north-east to south-east, the nearest of them about two +miles distant, and a low sandy key between us and the cape bore +west distant four miles. My course from the lagoon island had +been north half west distant 30 miles.</p> + +<p>I am sorry it was not in my power to obtain a sufficient +knowledge of the depth of water but in our situation nothing +could be undertaken that might have occasioned delay. It may +however be understood that to the best of my judgment from +appearances a ship may pass wherever I have omitted to represent +danger.</p> + +<p>I divided six birds and issued one 25th of a pound of bread +with half a pint of water to each person for dinner, and I gave +half a glass of wine to Nelson, who was now so far recovered as +to require no other indulgence.</p> + +<p>The gunner when he left the ship brought his watch with him, +by which we had regulated out time till today, when unfortunately +it stopped; so that noon, sunrise, and sunset, are the only parts +of the 24 hours of which from henceforward I can speak with +certainty as to time.</p> + +<p>The wind blew fresh from the south-south-east and south-east +all the afternoon with fair weather. As we stood to the north by +west we found more sea, which I attributed to our receiving less +shelter from the reefs to the eastward: it is probable they did +not extend so far north as this; at least it may be concluded +that there is not a continued barrier to prevent shipping having +access to the shore. I observed that the stream set to the +north-west, which I considered to be the flood. In some places +along the coast we saw patches of wood. At five o'clock, steering +to the north-west, we passed a large and fair inlet into which I +imagine there is a safe and commodious entrance; it lies in +latitude 11 degrees south. About three leagues to the northward +of this is an island, at which we arrived about sunset, and took +shelter for the night under a sandy point which was the only part +we could land at. This being rather a wild situation I thought it +best to sleep in the boat: nevertheless I sent a party away to +see if anything could be got, but they returned without success. +They saw a great number of turtle bones and shells where the +natives had been feasting, and their last visit seemed to be of +late date. The island was covered with wood, but in other +respects it was a lump of rocks.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 3.</p> + +<p>We lay at a grapnel till daylight with a very fresh gale and +cloudy weather. The main bore from south-east by south to +north-north-west half west three leagues, and a mountainous +island with a flat top, north by west four or five leagues, +between which and the mainland were several other islands. The +spot we were at, which I call Turtle Island, lies in latitude by +account 10 degrees 52 minutes south and 42 miles west from +Restoration Island. Abreast of it the coast has the appearance of +a sandy desert, but improves about three leagues farther to the +northward where it terminates in a point, near to which are many +small islands. I sailed between these islands where I found no +bottom at twelve fathoms; the high mountainous island with a flat +top and four rocks to the south-east of it, that I call the +Brothers, being on my starboard hand. Soon after an extensive +opening appeared in the mainland, in which were a number of high +islands. I called this the Bay of Islands. We continued steering +to the north-west. Several islands and keys were in sight to the +northward: the most northerly island was mountainous, having on +it a very high round hill, and a smaller was remarkable for a +single peaked hill.</p> + +<p>The coast to the northward and westward of the Bay of Islands +is high and woody and has a broken appearance, with many islands +close to it, among which there are fine bays and convenient +places for shipping. The northernmost of these islands I call +Wednesday Island: to the north-west of this we fell in with a +large reef which I believe joins a number of keys that were in +sight from the north-west to the east-north-east. We therefore +stood to the south-west half a league when it was noon, and I had +a good observation of the latitude in 10 degrees 31 minutes +south. Wednesday Island bore east by south five miles; the +westernmost land in sight south-west two or three leagues; the +islands to the northward from north-west by west to north-east, +and the reef from west to north-east distant one mile. I was now +tolerably certain that we should be clear of New Holland in the +afternoon.</p> + +<p>I know not how far this reef extends. It may be a continuation +or a detached part of the range of shoals that surround the +coast. I believe the mountainous islands to be separate from the +shoals, and have no doubt that near them may be found good +passages for ships. But I rather recommend to those who are to +pass this strait from the eastward to take their direction from +the coast of New Guinea: yet I likewise think that a ship coming +from the southward will find a fair strait in the latitude of 10 +degrees south. I much wished to have ascertained this point but +in our distressful situation any increase of fatigue or loss of +time might have been attended with the most fatal consequences. I +therefore determined to pass on without delay.</p> + +<p>As an addition to our dinner of bread and water I served to +each person six oysters.</p> + +<p>At two o'clock in the afternoon as we were steering to the +south-west towards the westernmost part of the land in sight we +fell in with some large sandbanks that run off from the coast: I +therefore called this Shoal Cape. We were obliged to steer to the +northward again till we got round the shoals, when I directed the +course to the west.</p> + +<p>At four o'clock the westernmost of the islands to the +northward bore north four leagues; Wednesday Island east by north +five leagues, and shoal cape south-east by east two leagues. A +small island was seen bearing west, at which we arrived before +dark and found that it was only a rock where boobies resort, for +which reason I called it Booby Island. Here terminated the rocks +and shoals of the north part of New Holland for except Booby +Island no land was seen to the westward of south after three +o'clock this afternoon.</p> + +<p>I find that Booby island was seen by Captain Cook and, by a +remarkable coincidence of ideas, received from him the same name, +but I cannot with certainty reconcile the situation of some parts +of the coast that I have seen to his survey. I ascribe this to +the various forms in which land appears when seen from the +different heights of a ship and a boat. The chart I have given is +by no means meant to supersede that made by Captain Cook, who had +better opportunities than I had and was in every respect properly +provided for surveying. The intention of mine is chiefly to +render this narrative more intelligible, and to show in what +manner the coast appeared to me from an open boat. I have little +doubt but that the opening which I named the Bay of Islands is +Endeavour Straits; and that our track was to the northward of +Prince of Wales' Isles. Perhaps, by those who shall hereafter +navigate these seas, more advantage may be derived from the +possession of both our charts than from either of them +singly.</p> + +<p align="center"><a name="bligh-07"></a><img alt="" src= +"images/bligh-07.jpg"><br> +<b>NE Coast of New Holland.<br> +a a Track of Lt. Bligh in the Bounty's Launch.</b></p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a name="ch17"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 17.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>Passage from New Holland to the Island Timor.<br> +Arrive at Coupang. Reception there.</b></blockquote> + +<p>June 1789.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 3.</p> + +<p>At eight o'clock in the evening we once more launched into the +open ocean. Miserable as our situation was in every respect I was +secretly surprised to see that it did not appear to affect anyone +so strongly as myself; on the contrary it seemed as if they had +embarked on a voyage to Timor in a vessel sufficiently calculated +for safety and convenience. So much confidence gave me great +pleasure and I may venture to assert that to this cause our +preservation is chiefly to be attributed.</p> + +<p>I encouraged everyone with hopes that eight or ten days would +bring us to a land of safety; and, after praying to God for a +continuance of his most gracious protection, I served an +allowance of water for supper and directed our course to the +west-south-west to counteract the southerly winds in case they +should blow strong.</p> + +<p>We had been just six days on the coast of New Holland in the +course of which we found oysters, a few clams, some birds, and +water. But perhaps a benefit nearly equal to this we received by +having been relieved from the fatigue of being constantly in the +boat and enjoying good rest at night. These advantages certainly +preserved our lives and, small as the supply was, I am very +sensible how much it alleviated our distresses. By this time +nature must have sunk under the extremes of hunger and fatigue. +Some would have ceased to struggle for a life that only promised +wretchedness and misery; and others, though possessed of more +bodily strength, must soon have followed their unfortunate +companions. Even in our present situation we were most deplorable +objects; but the hopes of a speedy relief kept up our spirits. +For my own part, incredible as it may appear, I felt neither +extreme hunger nor thirst. My allowance contented me, knowing +that I could have no more.</p> + +<p>Thursday 4.</p> + +<p>I served one 25th of a pound of bread and an allowance of +water for breakfast and the same for dinner with an addition of +six oysters to each person. At noon latitude observed 10 degrees +48 minutes south; course since yesterday noon south 81 degrees +west, distance 111 miles; longitude by account from Shoal Cape 1 +degree 45 minutes west. A strong tradewind at east-south-east +with fair weather.</p> + +<p>This day we saw a number of water-snakes that were ringed +yellow and black, and towards noon we passed a great deal of +rock-weed. Though the weather was fair we were constantly +shipping water, which kept two men always employed to bale the +boat.</p> + +<p>Friday 5.</p> + +<p>At noon I observed in latitude 10 degrees 45 minutes south; +our course since yesterday west one quarter north, 108 miles; +longitude made 3 degrees 35 minutes west. Six oysters were, as +yesterday, served to each man, in addition to the usual allowance +of bread and water.</p> + +<p>In the evening a few boobies came about us, one of which I +caught with my hand. The blood was divided among three of the men +who were weakest, but the bird I ordered to be kept for our +dinner the next day. Served a quarter of a pint of water for +supper, and to some who were most in need half a pint. In the +course of the night, being constantly wet with the sea, we +suffered much cold and shiverings.</p> + +<p>Saturday 6.</p> + +<p>At daylight I found that some of the clams which had been hung +up to dry for sea-store were stolen; but everyone solemnly denied +having any knowledge of it. This forenoon we saw a gannet, a +sand-lark and some water-snakes which in general were from two or +three feet long.</p> + +<p>The usual allowance of bread and water was served for +breakfast, and the same for dinner with the bird, which I +distributed in the usual way, of Who shall have this? I proposed +to make Timor about the latitude of 9 degrees 30 minutes south, +or 10 degrees south. At noon I observed the latitude to be 10 +degrees 19 minutes south; course north 77 degrees west, distance +117 miles; longitude made from the Shoal Cape, the north part of +New Holland, 5 degrees 31 minutes west.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon I took an opportunity of examining our store +of bread, and found remaining 19 days allowance, at the former +rate of serving one 25th of a pound three times a day: therefore, +as I saw every prospect of a quick passage, I again ventured to +grant an allowance for supper, agreeable to my promise at the +time it was discontinued.</p> + +<p>Sunday 7.</p> + +<p>We passed the night miserably wet and cold and in the morning +I heard heavy complaints. The sea was high and breaking over us. +I could only afford the allowance of bread and water for +breakfast, but for dinner I gave out an ounce of dried clams to +each person, which was all that remained.</p> + +<p>At noon I altered the course to the west-north-west to keep +more from the sea, as the wind blew strong. Latitude observed 9 +degrees 31 minutes south; course north 57 degrees west, distance +88 miles; longitude made 6 degrees 46 minutes west.</p> + +<p>The sea ran very high all this day and we had frequent showers +of rain so that we were continually wet and suffered much cold in +the night. Mr. Ledward the surgeon, and Lawrence Lebogue, an old +hardy seaman, appeared to be giving way very fast. I could only +assist them by a teaspoonful or two of wine which I had carefully +saved, expecting such a melancholy necessity.</p> + +<p>Monday 8.</p> + +<p>Wind at south-east. The weather was more moderate than it had +been for some days past. A few gannets were seen. At noon I +observed in 8 degrees 45 minutes south; course west-north-west +one quarter west, 106 miles; longitude made 8 degrees 23 minutes +west. The sea being smooth I steered west by south.</p> + +<p>At four in the afternoon we caught a small dolphin, which was +the first relief of the kind that we obtained. I issued about two +ounces to each person, including the offals, and saved the +remainder for dinner the next day. Towards evening the wind +freshened and it blew strong all night, so that we shipped much +water and suffered greatly from the wet and cold.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 9.</p> + +<p>At daylight as usual I heard much complaining, which my own +feelings convinced me was too well founded. I gave the surgeon +the Lebogue a little wine but I could afford them no farther +relief except encouraging them with hopes that a very few days +longer, at our present fine rate of sailing, would bring us to +Timor.</p> + +<p>Gannets, boobies, men of war and tropic birds, were constantly +about us. Served the usual allowance of bread and water and at +noon we dined on the remains of the dolphin, which amounted to +about an ounce per man. I observed the latitude to be 9 degrees 9 +minutes south; longitude made 10 degrees 8 minutes west; course +since yesterday noon south 76 degrees west; distance 107 +miles.</p> + +<p>This afternoon I suffered great sickness from the nature of +part of the stomach of the fish which had fallen to my share at +dinner. At sunset served an allowance of bread and water for +supper.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 10.</p> + +<p>In the morning after a very comfortless night there was a +visible alteration for the worse in many of the people which gave +me great apprehensions. An extreme weakness, swelled legs, hollow +and ghastly countenances, a more than common inclination to +sleep, with an apparent debility of understanding, seemed to me +the melancholy presages of an approaching dissolution. The +surgeon and Lebogue, in particular, were most miserable objects. +I occasionally gave them a few teaspoonfuls of wine out of the +little that remained, which greatly assisted them. The hopes of +being able to accomplish the voyage was our principal support. +The boatswain very innocently told me that he really thought I +looked worse than anyone in the boat. The simplicity with which +he uttered such an opinion amused me and I returned him a better +compliment.</p> + +<p>Our latitude at noon was 9 degrees 16 minutes south. Longitude +from the north part of New Holland 12 degrees 1 minute west. +Course since yesterday noon west half south 111 miles. Birds and +rock-weed showed that we were not far from land, but I expected +such signs here as there are many islands between the east part +of Timor and New Guinea. The night was more moderate than the +last.</p> + +<p>Thursday 11.</p> + +<p>Everyone received the customary allowance of bread and water, +and an extra allowance of water was given to those who were most +in need. At noon I observed in latitude 9 degrees 41 minutes +south; course 77 degrees west, distance 109 miles; longitude made +13 degrees 49 minutes west. I had little doubt of having now +passed the meridian of the eastern part of Timor which is laid +down in 128 degrees east. This diffused universal joy and +satisfaction.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon we saw gannets and many other birds, and at +sunset we kept a very anxious lookout. In the evening we caught a +booby which I reserved for our dinner the next day.</p> + +<p>Friday 12.</p> + +<p>At three in the morning, with an excess of joy, we discovered +Timor bearing from west-south-west to west-north-west, and I +hauled on a wind to the north-north-east till daylight, when the +land bore from south-west by south to north-east by north. Our +distance from the shore two leagues.</p> + +<p>It is not possible for me to describe the pleasure which the +blessing of the sight of this land diffused among us. It appeared +scarce credible to ourselves that, in an open boat and so poorly +provided, we should have been able to reach the coast of Timor in +forty-one days after leaving Tofoa, having in that time run, by +our log, a distance of 3618 miles; and that, notwithstanding our +extreme distress, no one should have perished in the voyage.</p> + +<p>I have already mentioned that I knew not where the Dutch +settlement was situated but I had a faint idea that it was at the +south-west part of the island. I therefore, after daylight, bore +away alongshore to the south-south-west, which I was the more +readily induced to do as the wind would not suffer us to go +towards the north-east without great loss of time.</p> + +<p>The day gave us a most agreeable prospect of the land which +was interspersed with woods and lawns; the interior part +mountainous, but the shore low. Towards noon the coast became +higher with some remarkable headlands. We were greatly delighted +with the general look of the country which exhibited many +cultivated spots and beautiful situations; but we could only see +a few small huts whence I concluded that no European resided in +this part of the island. Much sea ran on the shore which made +landing impracticable. At noon we were abreast of a high +headland; the extremes of the land bore south-west half west, and +north-north-east half east; our distance offshore being three +miles; latitude by observation 9 degrees 59 minutes south; and my +longitude by dead reckoning from the north part of New Holland 15 +degrees 6 minutes west.</p> + +<p>With the usual allowance of bread and water for dinner I +divided the bird we had caught the night before, and to the +surgeon and Lebogue I gave a little wine.</p> + +<p>The wind blew fresh at east and east-south-east with very hazy +weather. During the afternoon we continued our course along a low +shore covered with innumerable palm-trees, called the Fan Palm +from the leaf spreading like a fan; but here we saw no signs of +cultivation, nor had the country so fine an appearance as to the +eastward. This however was only a small tract, for by sunset it +improved again and I saw several great smokes where the +inhabitants were clearing and cultivating their grounds. We had +now run 25 miles to the west-south-west since noon and were west +five miles from a low point which, in the afternoon, I imagined +had been the southernmost land, and here the coast formed a deep +bend with low land in the bight that appeared like islands. The +west shore was high; but from this part of the coast to the high +cape which we were abreast of at noon the shore is low and I +believe shoal. I particularly remark this situation because here +the very high ridge of mountains that run from the east end of +the island, terminate, and the appearance of the country changes +for the worse.</p> + +<p>That we might not run past any settlement in the night I +determined to preserve my station till the morning and therefore +brought to under a close-reefed foresail. We were here in shoal +water, our distance from the shore being half a league, the +westernmost land in sight bearing west-south-west half west. +Served bread and water for supper and, the boat lying to very +well, all but the officer of the watch endeavoured to get a +little sleep.</p> + +<p>Saturday 13.</p> + +<p>At two in the morning we wore and stood in shore till daylight +when I found we had drifted during the night about three leagues +to the west-south-west, the southernmost land in sight bearing +west. On examining the coast and not seeing any sign of a +settlement we bore away to the westward having a strong gale +against a weather current which occasioned much sea. The shore +was high and covered with wood, but we did not run far before low +land again formed the coast, the points of which opening at west +I once more fancied we were on the south part of the island; but +at ten o'clock we found the coast again inclining towards the +south, part of it bearing west-south-west half west. At the same +time high land appeared in the south-west; but the weather was so +hazy that it was doubtful whether the two lands were separated, +the opening only extending one point of the compass. For this +reason I stood towards the outer land and found it to be the +island Roti.</p> + +<p>I returned to the shore we had left and brought to a grapnel +in a sandy bay that I might more conveniently calculate my +situation. In this place we saw several smokes where the natives +were clearing their grounds. During the little time we remained +here the master and carpenter very much importuned me to let them +go in search of supplies; to which at length I assented but, not +finding any other person willing to be of their party, they did +not choose to quit the boat. I stopped here no longer than for +the purpose just mentioned, and we continued steering alongshore. +We had a view of a beautiful-looking country as if formed by art +into lawns and parks. The coast is low and covered with woods in +which are innumerable fan palm-trees that look like coconut +walks. The interior part is high land but very different from the +more eastern parts of the island where it is exceedingly +mountainous and to appearance the soil better.</p> + +<p>At noon the island Roti bore south-west by west seven leagues. +I had no observation for the latitude but by account we were in +10 degrees 12 minutes south; our course since yesterday noon +being south 77 degrees west 54 miles. The usual allowance of +bread and water was served for breakfast and dinner, and to the +surgeon and Lebogue I continued to give wine.</p> + +<p>We had a strong breeze at east-south-east with hazy weather +all the afternoon. At two o'clock, having run through a very +dangerous breaking sea, the cause of which I attributed to be a +strong tide setting to windward, and shoal water, we discovered a +spacious bay or sound with a fair entrance about two or three +miles wide. I now conceived hopes that our voyage was nearly at +an end as no place could appear more eligible for shipping or +more likely to be chosen for a European settlement: I therefore +came to a grapnel near the east side of the entrance in a small +sandy bay where we saw a hut, a dog, and some cattle, and I +immediately sent the boatswain and gunner away to the hut to +discover the inhabitants.</p> + +<p>The south-west point of the entrance bore west half south +three miles; the south-east point south by west three-quarters of +a mile; and the island Roti from south by west one quarter west +to south-west one quarter west about five leagues.</p> + +<p>While we lay here I found the ebb came from the northward, and +before our departure the falling of the tide discovered to us a +reef of rocks about two cables length from the shore, the whole +being covered at high-water renders it dangerous. On the opposite +shore also appeared very high breakers; but there is nevertheless +plenty of room and certainly a safe channel for a first-rate man +of war.</p> + +<p>The bay or sound within, seemed to be of a considerable +extent, the northern part being about five leagues distant. Here +the land made in moderate risings joined by lower grounds. But +the island Roti to the southward is the best mark by which to +know this place.</p> + +<p>I had just time to make these remarks when I saw the boatswain +and gunner returning with some of the natives: I therefore no +longer doubted of our success and that our expectations would be +fully gratified. They brought five Indians and informed me that +they had found two families where the women treated them with +European politeness. From these people I learned that the +governor resided at a place called Coupang which was some +distance to the north-east. I made signs for one of them to go in +the boat and show us the way to Coupang, intimating that I would +pay him for his trouble: the man readily complied and came into +the boat.</p> + +<p>These people were of a dark tawny colour, had long black hair, +and chewed a great deal of betel. Their dress was a square piece +of cloth round the hips in the folds of which was stuck a large +knife; a handkerchief wrapped round the head, and another hanging +by the four corners from the shoulders, which served as a bag for +their betel equipage. They brought us a few pieces of dried +turtle and some ears of Indian corn. This last was the most +welcome; for the turtle was so hard that it could not be eaten +without being first soaked in hot water. They offered to bring us +some other refreshments if I would wait, but as the pilot was +willing I determined to push on. It was about half an hour past +four when we sailed.</p> + +<p>By direction of the pilot we kept close to the east shore +under all our sail; but as night came on the wind died away and +we were obliged to try at the oars which I was surprised to see +we could use with some effect. At ten o'clock, finding we +advanced but slowly, I came to a grapnel and for the first time I +issued double allowance of bread and a little wine to each +person.</p> + +<p>Sunday 14.</p> + +<p>At one o'clock in the morning, after the most happy and sweet +sleep that ever men enjoyed, we weighed and continued to keep the +east shore on board in very smooth water; when at last I found we +were again open to the sea, the whole of the land to the westward +that we had passed being an island which the pilot called Pulo +Samow. The northern entrance of this channel is about a mile and +a half or two miles wide and I had no ground at ten fathoms.</p> + +<p>The report of two cannon that were fired gave new life to +everyone; and soon after we discovered two square-rigged vessels +and a cutter at anchor to the eastward. We endeavoured to work to +windward but were obliged to take to our oars again, having lost +ground on each tack. We kept close to the shore and continued +rowing till four o'clock when I brought to a grapnel and gave +another allowance of bread and wine to all hands. As soon as we +had rested a little we weighed again, and rowed till near +daylight when we came to a grapnel off a small fort and town +which the pilot told me was Coupang.</p> + +<p>Among the things which the boatswain had thrown into the boat +before we left the ship was a bundle of signal flags that had +been used by the boats to show the depth of water in sounding; +with these we had in the course of the passage made a small jack +which I now hoisted in the main shrouds as a signal of distress, +for I did not think proper to land without leave.</p> + +<p>Soon after daybreak a soldier hailed us to land, which I +immediately did among a crowd of Indians, and was agreeably +surprised to meet with an English sailor who belonged to one of +the vessels in the road. His captain he told me was the second +person in the town; I therefore desired to be conducted to him as +I was informed the governor was ill and could not then be spoken +with.</p> + +<p>Captain Spikerman received me with great humanity. I informed +him of our distressed situation; and requested that care might be +taken of those who were with me without delay. On which he gave +directions for their immediate reception at his own house, and +went himself to the governor to know at what time I could be +permitted to see him, which was fixed to be at eleven +o'clock.</p> + +<p>I now desired my people to come on shore which was as much as +some of them could do, being scarce able to walk: they however +were helped to the house and found tea with bread and butter +provided for their breakfast.</p> + +<p>The abilities of a painter, perhaps, could seldom have been +displayed to more advantage than in the delineation of the two +groups of figures which at this time presented themselves to each +other. An indifferent spectator would have been at a loss which +most to admire, the eyes of famine sparkling at immediate relief, +or the horror of their preservers at the sight of so many +spectres, whose ghastly countenances, if the cause had been +unknown, would rather have excited terror than pity. Our bodies +were nothing but skin and bones, our limbs were full of sores, +and we were clothed in rags: in this condition, with the tears of +joy and gratitude flowing down our cheeks, the people of Timor +beheld us with a mixture of horror, surprise, and pity.</p> + +<p>The governor, Mr. William Adrian van Este, notwithstanding +extreme ill-health, became so anxious about us that I saw him +before the appointed time. He received me with great affection +and gave me the fullest proofs that he was possessed of every +feeling of a humane and good man. Sorry as he was, he said, that +such a calamity could ever have happened to us, yet he considered +it as the greatest blessing of his life that we had fallen under +his protection and, though his infirmity was so great that he +could not do the office of a friend himself, he would give such +orders as I might be certain would procure us every supply we +wanted. A house should be immediately prepared for me, and with +respect to my people he said that I might have room for them +either at the hospital or on board of captain Spikerman's ship +which lay in the road; and he expressed much uneasiness that +Coupang could not afford them better accommodations, the house +assigned to me being the only one uninhabited and the situation +of the few families that lived at this place such that they could +not conveniently receive strangers. For the present till matters +could be properly regulated he gave directions that victuals for +my people should be dressed at his own house.</p> + +<p>On returning to Captain Spikerman's house I found that every +kind relief had been given to my people. The surgeon had dressed +their sores and the cleaning of their persons had not been less +attended to, several friendly gifts of apparel having been +presented to them.</p> + +<p>I desired to be shown to the house that was intended for me, +which I found ready with servants to attend. It consisted of a +hall, with a room at each end, and a loft overhead; and was +surrounded by a piazza with an outer apartment in one corner and +a communication from the back part of the house to the street. I +therefore determined, instead of separating from my people, to +lodge them all with me; and I divided the house as follows: one +room I took to myself, the other I allotted to the master, +surgeon, Mr. Nelson, and the gunner; the loft to the other +officers, and the outer apartment to the men. The hall was common +to the officers and the men had the back piazza. Of this +disposition I informed the governor, and he sent down chairs, +tables and benches, with bedding and other necessaries for the +use of everyone.</p> + +<p>The governor when I took my leave had desired me to acquaint +him with everything of which I stood in need; but it was only at +particular times that he had a few moments of ease, or could +attend to anything, being in a dying state with an incurable +disease. On this account I transacted whatever business I had +with Mr. Timotheus Wanjon, the second of this place, who was the +governor's son-in-law, and who also contributed everything in +his power to make our situation comfortable. I had been, +therefore, misinformed by the seaman who told me that captain +Spikerman was the next person in command to the governor.</p> + +<p>At noon a dinner was brought to the house sufficiently good to +make persons more accustomed to plenty eat too much. Yet I +believe few in such a situation would have observed more +moderation than my people did. My greatest apprehension was that +they would eat too much fruit, of which there was great variety +in season at this time.</p> + +<p>Having seen everyone enjoy this meal of plenty I dined myself +with Mr. Wanjon; but I felt no extraordinary inclination to eat +or drink. Rest and quiet I considered as more necessary to the +reestablishment of my health and therefore retired soon to my +room which I found furnished with every convenience. But instead +of rest my mind was disposed to reflect on our late sufferings, +and on the failure of the expedition; but above all on the thanks +due to Almighty God who had given us power to support and bear +such heavy calamities and had enabled me at last to be the means +of saving eighteen lives.</p> + +<p>In times of difficulty there will generally arise +circumstances that bear particularly hard on a commander. In our +late situation it was not the least of my distresses to be +constantly assailed with the melancholy demands of my people for +an increase of allowance which it grieved me to refuse. The +necessity of observing the most rigid economy in the distribution +of our provisions was so evident that I resisted their +solicitations and never deviated from the agreement we made at +setting out. The consequence of this care was that at our arrival +we had still remaining sufficient for eleven days at our scanty +allowance: and if we had been so unfortunate as to have missed +the Dutch settlement at Timor we could have proceeded to Java +where I was certain that every supply we wanted could be +procured.</p> + +<p>Another disagreeable circumstance to which my situation +exposed me was the caprice of ignorant people. Had I been +incapable of acting they would have carried the boat on shore as +soon as we made the island of Timor without considering that +landing among the natives at a distance from the European +settlement might have been as dangerous as among any other +Indians.</p> + +<p>The quantity of provisions with which we left the ship was not +more than we should have consumed in five days had there been no +necessity for husbanding our stock. The mutineers must naturally +have concluded that we could have no other place of refuge than +the Friendly Islands for it was not likely they should imagine +that, so poorly equipped as we were in every respect, there could +have been a possibility of our attempting to return homewards: +much less can they suspect that the account of their villainy has +already reached their native country.</p> + +<p>When I reflect how providentially our lives were saved at +Tofoa by the Indians delaying their attack and that, with scarce +anything to support life, we crossed a sea of more than 1200 +leagues, without shelter from the inclemency of the weather; when +I reflect that in an open boat with so much stormy weather we +escaped foundering, that not any of us were taken off by disease, +that we had the great good fortune to pass the unfriendly natives +of other countries without accident, and at last happily to meet +with the most friendly and best of people to relieve our +distresses; I say when I reflect on all these wonderful escapes +the remembrance of such great mercies enables me to bear, with +resignation and cheerfulness, the failure of an expedition the +success of which I had so much at heart and which was frustrated +at a time when I was congratulating myself on the fairest +prospect of being able to complete it in a manner that would +fully have answered the intention of His Majesty and the humane +promoters of so benevolent a plan.</p> + +<p>With respect to the preservation of our health during a course +of 16 days of heavy and almost continual rain I would recommend +to everyone in a similar situation the method we practised which +is to dip their clothes in the salt-water and wring them out as +often as they become filled with rain: it was the only resource +we had, and I believe was of the greatest service to us, for it +felt more like a change of dry clothes than could well be +imagined. We had occasion to do this so often that at length all +our clothes were wrung to pieces: for, except the few days we +passed on the coast of New Holland, we were continually wet +either with rain or sea.</p> + +<p>Thus through the assistance of Divine Providence we surmounted +the difficulties and distresses of a most perilous voyage and +arrived safe in an hospitable port where every necessary and +comfort were administered to us with a most liberal hand.</p> + +<p align="center"><a name="bligh-08"></a><img alt="" src= +"images/bligh-08.jpg"><br> +<b>Track of the Bounty's Launch from Tofoa to Timor by Lt. William Bligh, 1789.</b></p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a name="ch18"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 18.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>At Coupang.</b></blockquote> + +<p>JUNE 1789.</p> + +<p>TIMOR.</p> + +<p>From the great humanity and attention of the governor and the +gentlemen at Coupang we received every kind of assistance and +were not long without evident signs of returning health. Shortly +after our arrival I presented to the governor a formal account of +the loss of the Bounty; and a requisition in His Majesty's name +that instructions might be sent to all the Dutch settlements to +stop the ship if she made her appearance. With this a complete +descriptive list of the mutineers was given.</p> + +<p>I likewise requested in one of my first visits to the governor +that Nelson might have permission to walk about the country in +search of plants, which was readily granted with an offer of +whatever assistance I should think necessary: and the governor +assured me that the country was well worth examination as it +abounded with many curious and medicinal plants. From this +indulgence I derived no benefit, for Nelson, who since we left +New Holland had been but in a weak condition, about this time was +taken ill in consequence of a cold caused by imprudently leaving +off warm clothing.</p> + +<p>To secure our arrival at Batavia before the October fleet +sailed for Europe I gave public notice of my intention to hire a +vessel to carry us to Batavia. In consequence of this notice +several offers were made but none that I thought reasonable; +which determined me to purchase a small schooner in the road, +that was 34 feet long, for which I gave 1000 rix-dollars and +fitted her for sea under the name of His Majesty's schooner +Resource. As the coast of Java is frequently infested with small +piratical vessels it was necessary that we should be provided +with the proper means of defence. In this I was assisted by the +friendship of Mr. Wanjon who supplied me with four brass swivels, +14 stand of small arms, and ammunition, which he obligingly let +me have as a loan to be returned at Batavia.</p> + +<p>July 20.</p> + +<p>On the 20th of July I had the misfortune to lose Mr. David +Nelson: he died of an inflammatory fever. The loss of this honest +man I very much lamented: he had with great care and diligence +attended to the object for which he was sent, and had always been +ready to forward every plan that was proposed, for the good of +the service in which we were engaged. He was not less useful in +our voyage hither, in the course of which he gave me great +satisfaction, by the patience and fortitude with which he +conducted himself.</p> + +<p>July 21.</p> + +<p>This day I was employed attending the funeral of Mr. Nelson. +The corpse was carried by twelve soldiers dressed in black +preceded by the minister; next followed myself and the second +governor; then ten gentlemen of the town and the officers of the +ships in the harbour; and after them my own officers and +people.</p> + +<p>After reading our burial-service the body was interred behind +the chapel, in the burying-ground appropriated to the Europeans +of the town. I was sorry I could get no tombstone to place over +his remains.</p> + +<p>This was the second voyage Mr. Nelson had undertaken to the +South Seas, having been sent out by Sir Joseph Banks to collect +plants, seeds, etc. in Captain Cook's last voyage. And now, after +surmounting so many difficulties, and in the midst of +thankfulness for his deliverance, he was called upon to pay the +debt of nature at a time least expected.</p> + +<p>August 20.</p> + +<p>Our schooner being victualled and ready for sea, on the 20th +of August I took an affectionate leave of the hospitable and +friendly inhabitants of Coupang and embarked. In the afternoon we +sailed, having the launch which had so much contributed to our +preservation in tow. We exchanged salutes with the fort and +shipping as we ran out of the harbour.</p> + +<p>The town of Coupang is situated in a great bay which is an +excellent road for shipping. The latitude of the town is 10 +degrees 12 minutes south. According to the Dutch charts it is in +121 degrees 51 minutes east longitude. Taking the mean between +the longitude by my reckoning on our arrival at Coupang, and the +longitude afterwards calculated from our run to Batavia, gives me +for the longitude of Coupang 124 degrees 41 minutes east.</p> + +<p>This settlement was formed in the year 1630 and is the only +one the Dutch have on the island Timor. They have residents in +different parts of the country. On the north side of Timor there +is a Portuguese settlement. The produce of the island is chiefly +sandalwood and beeswax: the former article is now scarce. Wax +they have in great plenty. The bees build their nests in bushes +and in the boughs of trees to which the natives cannot approach +but with fire. The honey is put into jars and the wax is run into +blocks of three feet in length and from 12 to 15 inches square. +The natives, at least those who live in the neighbourhood of +Coupang, are of a very indolent disposition, of which the Chinese +have taken advantage, for, though the Malays are very fond of +traffic, most of their trade is carried on in small Chinese +vessels of from 10 to 30 tons burden. There is a market at +Coupang for the country people in which however there is little +business done. I have seen a man from the country come to market +with two potatoes: and this is not unusual. These being sold for +two doits (equal to a halfpenny English) serve to supply him with +betel to chew; and the remainder of the day is passed in lounging +about the town. The inland people, who live at a distance from +the Europeans, are strong and active, but their want of +cleanliness subjects them to filthy diseases.</p> + +<p>The chief of the natives, or king of the island, is by the +Dutch styled Keyfer (Emperor). This prince lives at a place +called Backennassy, about four miles distant from Coupang. His +authority over the natives is not wholly undisputed; which is by +the Dutch attributed to the intrigues of the Portuguese, who are +on the north part of Timor. The island has lately suffered much +by a competition between the present king and one of his nephews, +which caused a civil war that lasted from the beginning of the +year 1786 to 1788, when their differences were settled by a +treaty, chiefly in favour of the king. The ravages committed in +these disputes have occasioned a scarcity of provisions that +probably, from the want of industry in the natives, will not soon +be remedied. I had an opportunity of making a visit to the king. +His dwelling was a large house which was divided into only three +apartments and surrounded by a piazza, agreeably situated but +very dirty, as was all the furniture. The king, who is an elderly +man, received me with much civility and ordered refreshments to +be set before me, which were tea, rice cakes, roasted Indian +corn, and dried buffalo flesh, with about a pint of arrack, which +I believe was all he had. His dress was a check wrapper girded +round his waist with a silk and gold belt, a loose linen jacket, +and a coarse handkerchief about his head. A few of his chiefs +were with him who partook of our repast; after which the king +retired with three of them for a short time and when he returned +presented me with a round plate of metal about four inches +diameter on which was stamped the figure of a star. As I had been +informed that arrack would be an acceptable present I was +prepared to make a return which was well received. They never +dilute their liquor and from habit are able to drink a large +quantity of spirits at a time without being intoxicated.</p> + +<p>When a king dies a large feast is made to which all the +inhabitants are invited. The body after a few days is put into a +coffin which is closed up and kept three years before it is +interred.</p> + +<p>The Dutch have been at some pains to establish Christianity +among the natives: but it has not gained much ground, except in +the neighbourhood of Coupang. The present king was christened by +the name of Barnardus. His Indian name is Bachee Bannock. The +scriptures are translated into the Malay language and prayers are +performed in the church at Coupang by a Malay clergyman, in that +language.</p> + +<p>I met at Timor with most of the fruits that are described in +Captain Cook's first voyage as natives of Batavia, except the +mangosteen. The breadfruit tree, called by the Malays soccoom, +likewise grows here with great luxuriance and appears to be as +much a native of this island as it is of Otaheite. The fruit is +exactly of the same kind but not so good. A breadfruit of Timor +weighs half as much more as one of equal size at Otaheite. It is +not used here as bread but generally eaten with milk and sugar. +At Backennassy I saw about twenty of the trees, larger than any I +have seen at Otaheite. Here is also a sort of breadfruit tree +that produces seeds not unlike Windsor beans and equally +palatable either boiled or roasted. No other part of the fruit is +eatable and, though the tree I am told is to all appearance the +same as the other, the fruits have but little resemblance, the +fruit of this being covered with projecting points nearly half an +inch in length.</p> + +<p>I received a present of some fine plants from the governor, +which I was afterwards unfortunately obliged to leave at Batavia +for want of proper room to take care of them in the packet by +which I returned to Europe. Mr. Wanjon likewise favoured me with +some seeds for His Majesty's garden at Kew which I had the good +fortune to deliver safe on my return: and some of the mountain +rice cultivated at Timor on the dry land, which was forwarded to +His Majesty's botanic garden at St. Vincent, and to other parts +in the West Indies.</p> + +<p>A resemblance of language between the people of the South Sea +islands and the inhabitants of many of the islands in the East +Indies has been remarked in Captain Cook's first voyage. Here the +resemblance appeared stronger than has yet been noticed; +particularly in their numerals. But besides the language I +observed some customs among the people of Timor still more +striking for their similarity. They practise the tooge-tooge* of +the Friendly Islands which they call toombock: and the roomee of +Otaheite which they call ramas. I likewise saw, placed on their +graves, offerings of baskets with tobacco and betel.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The tooge-tooge is described in Captain Cook's +last voyage Volume 1 page 323; and the roomee in the same voyage +Volume 2 page 64.)</blockquote> + +<p>I left the governor Mr. van Este at the point of death. To +this gentleman our most grateful thanks are due for the humane +and friendly treatment that we received from him. His ill state +of health only prevented him from showing us more particular +marks of attention. Unhappily it is to his memory only that I now +pay this tribute. It was a fortunate circumstance for us that Mr. +Wanjon, the next in place to the governor, was equally humane and +ready to relieve us. His attention was unremitting and, when +there was a doubt about supplying me with money to enable me to +purchase a vessel, he cheerfully took it upon himself; without +which it was evident, I should have been too late at Batavia to +have sailed for Europe with the October fleet. I can only return +such services by ever retaining a grateful remembrance of +them.</p> + +<p>Mr. Max the town surgeon likewise behaved to us with the most +disinterested humanity: he attended everyone with the utmost +care, for which I could not prevail on him to receive any +payment, or to render me any account, or other answer than that +it was his duty.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a name="ch19"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 19.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>From Timor to Batavia.</b></blockquote> + +<p>AUGUST 1789.</p> + +<p>Thursday 20.</p> + +<p>From Coupang we steered north-west by west having a moderate +breeze at south-east with fair weather.</p> + +<p>Saturday 22.</p> + +<p>At daylight we saw the island Flores to the northward. At noon +latitude observed 9 degrees 27 minutes south, and longitude by +account from Coupang 2 degrees 10 minutes west. Our distance from +the coast of Flores was about 10 leagues; and two high peaked +mountains bore north half east and north-north-west. These two +mountains resemble each other in shape and the westernmost is a +volcano. The interior parts of Flores are mountainous and woody: +but near the sea-coast is a fine open country. A Dutch map with +which I was provided places the south part of Flores in 9 degrees +3 minutes south which I am of opinion is too far south. We +steered along the south side of Flores, mostly with light winds +and hazy weather, so that we did not constantly keep sight of the +coast.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 25.</p> + +<p>At noon we were off Toorns island which bore north-west by +north three or four leagues distant. Our latitude observed was 8 +degrees 57 minutes south and longitude made by dead reckoning +from Coupang 3 degrees 27 minutes west. Toorns island is about +four leagues in circuit and has a craggy and uneven appearance. +There is a curious high peak on the south-west part: the land +near the shore is low and woody.</p> + +<p>Thursday 27.</p> + +<p>On the 27th at noon we were near the entrance of the Straits +of Mangaryn, which not appearing so open and clear as represented +in the map, I steered for the straits of Sapi, intending to pass +through; but was obliged to give up this plan by strong currents +setting to the south-east which there was not sufficient wind to +enable us to stem.</p> + +<p>Saturday 29.</p> + +<p>I therefore again stood for the Straits of Mangaryn which we +ran through in the afternoon of the 29th, being favoured with a +fresh breeze from the south-south-east. On our first entering the +straits we got close to the Flores shore: our course through was +north half east. We tried for soundings but could not anywhere +find bottom at 25 and 30 fathoms depth. On the Flores side there +are many good harbours and bays where vessels may anchor; but the +country hereabouts appears burnt up and desolate.</p> + +<p>I had no azimuth-compass and consequently could not observe +very accurately the variation; but I believe there is so little +in Mangaryn Straits that no great error will be occasioned by +considering the true and magnetic bearings to be the same.</p> + +<p>When we had passed the straits we kept to the westward, +running along the north side of the island Sumbawa, where there +is a very high mountain near the coast, at the foot of which I am +informed, are many runs of good water, conveniently situated for +ships to supply themselves. The latitude of the north part of +Sumbawa I make by my observations and bearings to be 8 degrees 6 +minutes south, which differs very little from the Dutch +charts.</p> + +<p>Monday 31.</p> + +<p>In the night of the 31st several prows were rowing about us, +on which account we kept all night under arms.</p> + +<p>September. Thursday 3.</p> + +<p>This and the two following days we were sailing along the +north side of the island Lombok, on which is a high mountain. +Most of the islands in this route are distinguished by high +mountains. Lombok appears to be well clothed with wood. In the +nights we saw fires upon the high lands at a distance from the +coast.</p> + +<p>Sunday 6.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon we saw the high land of Cape Sandana, which +is the north-east part of Java.</p> + +<p>Monday 7.</p> + +<p>The next day we were off cape Sandana which is a low cape +projecting from the high land already mentioned. This cape is +placed by the Dutch maps in 7 degrees 52 minutes south. But +according to my observation and our estimated distance from the +land I make it in 7 degrees 46 minutes south latitude. The +longitude by my dead reckoning from Coupang to Cape Sandana was +11 degrees 33 minutes west.</p> + +<p>Thursday 10.</p> + +<p>We steered to the westward along the coast of Java and on the +10th at noon we anchored off Passourwang, a Dutch settlement on +the coast of Java, in two fathoms, distant from the shore half a +league, the entrance of the river bearing south-west. The coast +hereabouts so is shoal that large ships are obliged to anchor +three or four miles from the land. As soon as we were at anchor I +got in my boat and went on shore. The banks of the river near the +entrance were mud, on which grew a few mangrove bushes. Among +them we saw hogs running and many were laying dead in the mud, +which caused a most intolerable stench and made me heartily +repent having come here; but after proceeding about a mile up the +river, the course of which was serpentine, we found a very +pleasant country and landed at a small and well-constructed fort, +where I was received in a friendly and polite manner by M. Adrian +van Rye, the commandant. By the return of the boat I sent on +board a small bullock and other provisions. I likewise took a +pilot to conduct us to Sourabaya.</p> + +<p>The houses at Passourwang are neatly built and the country +appears to be well cultivated. The produce of this settlement is +rice, of which they export large quantities. There are but few +Dutch here: the Javanese are numerous and their chief lives with +considerable splendour. They have good roads and posts are +established along the coast; and it appears to be a busy and +well-regulated settlement. Latitude 7 degrees 36 minutes south. +Longitude 1 degree 44 minutes west of Cape Sandana.</p> + +<p>Friday 11.</p> + +<p>The next day about noon we sailed.</p> + +<p>Saturday 12.</p> + +<p>And on the 12th in the evening anchored in Sourabaya road in +seven fathoms: the flagstaff bearing south one quarter west; +distance from the shore one mile. We found riding here seven +square-rigged and several smaller vessels.</p> + +<p>It was too late when we anchored to send a boat on shore.</p> + +<p>Sunday 13.</p> + +<p>The next morning before daylight three guard-boats stationed +themselves near us and I was informed that I must not land or +send a boat on shore. This restriction I learnt from the officer +of the guard-boats was in conformity to general orders concerning +all strange vessels on their first arrival. At nine in the +forenoon leave came off for us to land and soon after the +guard-boats quitted us.</p> + +<p>I was received on shore with great civility and friendship by +the governor or Opperhoost M. Ant. Barkay, and the commandant of +the troops M. de Bose. By these gentlemen I was hospitably +entertained, and advised to remain till the 16th when some +vessels were to sail, with whom I might keep company, which they +recommended on account of pirates.</p> + +<p>Sourabaya is one of the most pleasant places I ever saw. It is +situated on the banks of a river and is a mile and a half distant +from the seashore so that only the flagstaff can be seen from the +road. The river is navigable up to the town for vessels of 100 +tons burden, and the bank on one side is made convenient for +tracking. The Chinese carry on a considerable trade here, and +have a town or camp on the side of the river opposite to +Sourabaya. The country near the town is flat and the soil light, +so that they plow with a single bullock or buffalo (karrabow). +The interior parts of the country near the mountains are infested +with a breed of fierce tigers, which makes travelling inland very +dangerous. They have here a breed of horses which are small but +they are handsome and strong.</p> + +<p>The Javanese in this neighbourhood are numerous. M. Barkay and +M. de Bose took me with them to pay a visit to two of the +principal natives, whom we found attended by a number of men +armed with pikes in great military order. We were entertained +with a concert of music; the instruments were gongs, drums, and a +fiddle with two strings. I hired a pilot here to carry us to +Batavia. Our latitude observed in Sourabaya road was 7 degrees 11 +minutes south. Longitude made from Cape Sandana 1 degree 52 +minutes west.</p> + +<p>Thursday 17.</p> + +<p>On the 17th we sailed from Sourabaya in company with three +prows. At noon we anchored at Crissey which is a town with a +small fort belonging to the Dutch. We remained here about two +hours and then weighed. Latitude of Crissey 7 degrees 9 minutes +south. Longitude from Cape Sandana 1 degree 55 minutes west.</p> + +<p>The navigation through the Straits of Madura is so intricate +that with the little opportunity I had I am unable to undertake a +description of it.</p> + +<p>Friday 18.</p> + +<p>The next day, having passed the straits, we bore away to the +westward along the coast of Java in company with the prows before +mentioned.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 22.</p> + +<p>We had regular soundings all the way to Samarang, off which +place we anchored on the 22nd in the afternoon; the church +bearing south-east; distance from the shore half a league: depth +of water two fathoms. The shoalness of the coast here makes the +road of Samarang very inconvenient, both on account of the great +distance that large ships (of which there were several in the +road) are obliged to lay from the shore, and of the landing which +is in a river that cannot be entered before half-flood. This +river resembles the one at Passourwang, the shores being low with +offensive dead animals laying about. I was met at the +landing-place by the equipage-master, and he furnished me with a +carriage to carry me to the governor, whose residence is about +two miles from the town of Samarang. I requested and obtained +leave to have our wants supplied, which were to recruit our +provisions, and to get a any mainmast, having sprung ours in the +passage from Sourabaya.</p> + +<p>Samarang is a fortified town surrounded by a wall and ditch, +and is the most considerable settlement next to Batavia that the +Dutch have in Java. Here is a very good hospital and a public +school, chiefly for teaching the mathematics. They have likewise +a theatre. Provisions are remarkably cheap here, beef being at +ten doits per pound and the price of a fowl 12 doits.</p> + +<p>I experienced great civility from some of the gentlemen at +Samarang, particularly from M. le Baron de Bose, a merchant, +brother to the M. de Bose, commandant of the troops at Sourabaya: +and from M. Abegg, the surgeon of the hospital, to whom we were +indebted for advice and medicines for which he would not consent +to receive payment.</p> + +<p>The latitude of Samarang is 6 degrees 57 minutes. Longitude by +my reckoning from Cape Sandana 4 degrees 7 minutes west.</p> + +<p>Saturday 26.</p> + +<p>On the 26th we sailed from Samarang and with us a galley +mounting six swivels which the governor had directed to accompany +us to Batavia.</p> + +<p>October. Thursday 1.</p> + +<p>On the 1st of October we anchored in Batavia road, where we +found riding a Dutch ship of war and 20 sail of Dutch East India +ships, besides many smaller vessels.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a name="ch20"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 20.</h2> + +<blockquote><b>Occurrences at Batavia and Passage thence to England.</b></blockquote> + +<p>OCTOBER 1789.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon at four o'clock I went on shore and landed at +a house by the river where strangers first stop and give an +account who they are, whence they came, etc. From this place a +Malay gentleman took me in a carriage to Sabandar, Mr. Engelhard, +whose house was in the environs of the city on the side nearest +the shipping. The Sabandar is the officer with whom all strangers +are obliged to transact their business: at least the whole must +go through his hands. With him I went to pay my respects to the +governor-general who received me with great civility. I +acquainted his excellency with my situation and requested my +people might be taken care of and that we should be allowed to +take a passage to Europe in the first ship that sailed. I +likewise desired permission to sell the schooner and launch. All +this his excellency told me should be granted. I then took leave +and returned with the Sabandar who wrote down the particulars of +my wants in order to form from them a regular petition to be +presented to the council the next day. I had brought from the +governor of Coupang, directed for the governor-general at +Batavia, the account of my voyage and misfortune, translated into +Dutch from an account that I had given to Mr. van Este. So +attentive had they been at Timor to everything that related to +us.</p> + +<p>There is a large hotel at Batavia fitted up purposely for the +accommodation of strangers, who are not allowed to reside at any +other place. It is situated near the great river in a part of the +city that is reckoned the most airy and healthy. Nevertheless I +found the air hot and suffocating and was taken ill in the night +with a violent pain in my head.</p> + +<p>Friday 2.</p> + +<p>The next morning at nine the council sat and I attended, +accompanied by the Sabandar; and was informed that the council +had complied with all I had requested.</p> + +<p>When I returned to the hotel my headache increased and a +violent fever came on. I sent to acquaint the Sabandar of my +situation and was soon after attended by the head surgeon of the +town hospital Mr. Aansorp, by whose care and skill in less than +24 hours the fever considerably abated but a severe headache +continued. I had an invitation from the governor-general to dine +with him, which of course I was obliged to decline.</p> + +<p>I hired a carriage which cost three dollars per day for the +benefit of taking an airing. My lodgings at the hotel were so +close and hot that I desired the Sabandar to apply to the +Governor-General for leave to hire a house in the country; which +request his excellency not only immediately complied with but +gave directions for my being accommodated at the house of the +physician or surgeon-general Mr. Sparling.</p> + +<p>One of my people, Thomas Hall, being ill with a flux I +obtained leave for him to be sent to the country hospital which +is a convenient airy building.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 6.</p> + +<p>This morning at sunrise I left the hotel and was carried to +Mr. Sparling's house, about four miles distant from the city and +near the convalescent hospital which at this time had also sick +men in it, the whole number of patients amounting to 800. I found +everything prepared for my comfort and convenience. Mr. Sparling +would suffer me to take no medicine though I had still +considerable fever with headache: but I found so much relief from +the difference of the air that in the evening I was able to +accompany Mr. Sparling on a visit to the governor-general at one +of his country seats, where we found many ladies all dressed in +the Malay fashion, some of them richly ornamented with jewels. I +had invitations from several gentlemen and some very kindly +pressed me to make their country houses my abode till my health +should be reestablished.</p> + +<p>My indisposition increasing, Mr. Sparling advised me to quit +Batavia as speedily as possible and represented the necessity of +it to the governor-general. I was informed from his excellency +that the homeward-bound ships were so much crowded that there +would be no possibility of all my people going in one ship, and +that they could be accommodated no other way than by dividing +them into different ships. Seeing therefore that a separation was +unavoidable I determined to follow the advice of the physician +and, as a packet was appointed to sail for Europe on the 16th +instant, I sent to request of the governor that I might be +allowed to take a passage in her for myself and as many of my +people as they were able to receive. In answer to this I was +acquainted that myself and two more could be accommodated in the +packet, she being too small to admit a greater number; but that I +might rest assured of passages being provided for those that +remained by the earliest opportunities.</p> + +<p>Friday 9.</p> + +<p>This day anchored in the road the General Elliot, an English +ship commanded by Captain Lloyd. In the Straits of Banca he had +met with some boats belonging to the East India Company's ship +Vansittart that was lost in the straits of Billaton by having +struck on a rock that went through her bottom. Captain Wilson, +who commanded the Vansittart, I was informed had just finished a +survey of those Straits and was hoisting his boat in when the +ship struck. Immediately on receiving the intelligence Captain +Lloyd, in the General Elliot and another ship in company called +the Nonsuch, sailed for the wreck. They found the ship had been +burnt down to the water's edge by the Malays. They however saved +40 chests of treasure out of 55 which were said to have been on +board. Most of the ship's company were saved: one man only was +lost in the ship, and five others in a small boat were missing +who were supposed to have taken some of the treasure. The greater +part of the people went with Captain Wilson to China, and some +were with Captain Lloyd.</p> + +<p>Saturday 10.</p> + +<p>This morning the Resource was sold by public auction: the +custom at Batavia is to begin high and to lower the price till +some person bids; and the first bidder is the buyer. She was +accordingly put up at 2000 rix-dollars but to my great +disappointment no one offered to purchase before the auctioneer +had lowered the demand to 295 rix-dollars, for which price she +was sold, the purchaser being an Englishman, Captain John Eddie, +who commanded an English ship from Bengal. If no strangers had +been present at the sale I imagine they would have let her run +down to 200 dollars, in which case I should have had no +alternative.</p> + +<p>The launch likewise was sold. The services she had rendered us +made me feel great reluctance at parting with her; which I would +not have done if I could have found a convenient opportunity of +getting her conveyed to Europe.</p> + +<p>Little as the schooner had sold for I found I was in danger of +having the sum lessened; for the Sabandar informed me that by an +order of the council there was a duty on the sale of all vessels. +With this demand I would by no means comply for I thought I had +sufficiently suffered in sustaining a loss of 705 rix-dollars out +of 1000 by the purchase and sale of the vessel, she having cost +1000 rix-dollars.</p> + +<p>This day Thomas Hall, whom I had sent to be taken care of at +the hospital, died. He had been ill of a flux from the time of +our arrival at Timor.</p> + +<p>Monday 12.</p> + +<p>I agreed with the captain of the packet for a passage to +Europe for myself, my clerk, and a servant. The Sabandar informed +me it was necessary that my officers and people should be +examined before a notary respecting the loss of the Bounty, as +otherwise the governor and council were not legally authorised to +detain her if she should be found in any of the Dutch +settlements. They were therefore at my desire examined, and +afterwards made affidavit before the governor and council at the +Stadthouse.</p> + +<p>My officers complaining to me of the unreasonableness of some +tradesmen's bills I spoke to the Sabandar. A bill of 51 dollars +for five hats he reduced to 30 dollars and in other articles made +proportionable deductions.</p> + +<p>Paper money is the currency of Batavia and is so understood in +all bargains. At this time paper was at 28 per cent discount: +there is likewise a difference in the value of the ducatoon which +at Batavia is 80 stivers and in Holland only 63 stivers: this +occasions a loss of 21 1/4 per cent on remittance of money. It +therefore follows that if any person at Batavia remits money by +bills of exchange to Europe they lose by the discount and the +exchange 49 1/4 per cent.</p> + +<p>Those who have accounts to pay and can give unexceptionable +bills on Europe will find a considerable saving by negotiating +their bills with private people who are glad to give for them a +premium of 20 per cent at the least. This discovery I made +somewhat too late to profit by.</p> + +<p>One of the greatest difficulties that strangers have to +encounter is their being obliged to live at the hotel. This hotel +was formerly two houses which by doors of communication have been +made one. It is in the middle of a range of buildings more +calculated for a cold country than for such a climate as Batavia. +There is no free circulation of air and what is equally bad it is +always very dirty; and there is great want of attendance. What +they call cleaning the house is another nuisance; for they never +use any water to cool it or to lay the dust, but sweep daily with +brooms in such a manner that those in the house are almost +suffocated by a cloud of dust.</p> + +<p>The months of December and January are reckoned the most +unhealthy of the year, the heavy rains being then set in. The +account of the seasons as given to me here I believe may be +relied on.</p> + +<p>The middle of November the west monsoon begins and rain.</p> + +<p>December and January. Continual rain with strong westerly +wind.</p> + +<p>February. Westerly wind. Towards the end of this month the +rain begins to abate.</p> + +<p>March. Intervals of fine weather. Wind westerly.</p> + +<p>April. In this month the east monsoon begins. Weather +generally fine with showers of rain.</p> + +<p>May. East monsoon fixed. Showery.</p> + +<p>June and July. Clear weather. Strong east wind.</p> + +<p>August and September. Wind more moderate.</p> + +<p>October. In this month the wind begins to be variable with +showers of rain.</p> + +<p>The current is said always to run with the wind. Nevertheless +I found the reverse in sailing from Timor to Java. Between the +end of October and the beginning of the ensuing year no Dutch +ship bound for Europe is allowed to sail from Batavia for fear of +being near the Mauritius at the time of the hurricanes which are +frequent there in December and January.</p> + +<p>My illness prevented me from gaining much knowledge of +Batavia. Of their public buildings I saw nothing that gave me so +much satisfaction as their country hospital for seamen. It is a +large commodious and airy building about four miles from the +town, close to the side of the river, or rather in the river: for +the ground on which it stands has by labour been made an island +of, and the sick are carried there in a boat: each ward is a +separate dwelling and the different diseases are properly +classed. They have sometimes 1400 patients in it: at this time +there were 800, but more than half of these were recovered and +fit for service, of whom 300 were destined for the fleet that was +to sail for Europe. I went through most of the wards and there +appeared great care and attention. The sheets, bedding, and linen +of the sick were perfectly neat and clean. The house of the +physician, Mr. Sparling, who has the management of the hospital +is at one extremity of the building: and here it was that I +resided. To the attention and care of this gentleman, for which +he would receive no payment, I am probably indebted for my +life.</p> + +<p>The hospital in the town is well attended, but the situation +is so ill chosen that it certainly would be the saving of many +lives to build one in its stead up the river, which might be done +with great advantage as water carriage is so easy and convenient. +A great neglect in some of the commanders of the shipping here +was suffering their people to go dirty and frequently without +frock, shirt, or anything to cover their bodies, which, besides +being a public nuisance, must probably be productive of ill +health in the most robust constitution.</p> + +<p>The governor-general gave me leave to lodge all my people at +the country hospital which I thought a great advantage and with +which they were perfectly satisfied. The officers however at +their own request remained in the town.</p> + +<p>The time fixed for the sailing of the packet approaching, I +settled my accounts with the Sabandar, leaving open the +victualling account to be closed by Mr. Fryer the master previous +to his departure, who I likewise authorised to supply the men and +officers left under his command with one month's pay to enable +them to purchase clothing for their passage to England.</p> + +<p>I had been at great pains to bring living plants from Timor, +in six tubs, which contained jacks, nancas, karambolas, namnams, +jambos, and three thriving breadfruit plants. These I thought +might be serviceable at the Cape of Good Hope if brought no +farther: but I had the mortification of being obliged to leave +them all at Batavia. I took these plants on board at Coupang on +the 20th of August: they had experienced a passage of 42 days to +my arrival here. The breadfruit plants died to the root and +sprouted afresh from thence. The karambolas, jacks, nancas, and +namnams I had raised from the seed and they were in fine order. +No judgment can hence be formed of the success of transporting +plants, as in the present trial they had many disadvantages.</p> + +<p>Friday 16.</p> + +<p>This morning being sunrise I embarked on board the Vlydte +packet commanded by Captain Peter Couvret, bound for Middleburgh. +With me likewise embarked Mr. John Samwell, clerk, and John +Smith, seaman. Those of our company who stayed behind the +governor promised me should follow in the first ships and be as +little divided as possible. At 7 o'clock the packet weighed and +sailed out of the road.</p> + +<p>Sunday 18.</p> + +<p>On the 18th we spoke the Rambler, an American brig belonging +to Boston, bound to Batavia. After passing the Straits of Sunda +we steered to the north of the Cocos Isles. These islands, +Captain Couvret informed me, are full of coconut trees: there is +no anchorage near them but good landing for boats. Their latitude +12 degrees 0 minutes south. Longitude 96 degrees 5 minutes +east.</p> + +<p>In the passage to the Cape of Good Hope there occurred nothing +worth remark. I cannot however forbear noticing the Dutch manner +of navigating. They steer by true compass, or rather endeavour so +to do, by means of a small movable central card, which they set +to the meridian: and whenever they discover the variation has +altered 2 1/2 degrees since the last adjustment they again +correct the central card. This is steering within a quarter of a +point, without aiming at greater exactness. The officer of the +watch likewise corrects the course for leeway by his own judgment +before it is marked down in the log board. They heave no log: I +was told that the company do not allow it. Their manner of +computing their run is by means of a measured distance of 40 feet +along the ship's side: they take notice of any remarkable patch +of froth when it is abreast the foremost end of the measured +distance, and count half seconds till the mark of froth is +abreast the after end. With the number of half seconds thus +obtained they divide the number 48, taking the product for the +rate of sailing in geographical miles in one hour, or the number +of Dutch miles in four hours.</p> + +<p>It is not usual to make any allowance to the sun's declination +on account of being on a different meridian from that for which +the tables are calculated: they in general compute with the +numbers just as they are found in the table. From all this it is +not difficult to conceive the reason why the Dutch are frequently +above ten degrees out in their reckoning. Their passages likewise +are considerably lengthened by not carrying a sufficient quantity +of sail.</p> + +<p>December 16.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon we anchored in Table Bay.</p> + +<p>December 17.</p> + +<p>The next morning I went on shore and waited on his excellency +M. Vander Graaf who received me in the most polite and friendly +manner. The Guardian, commanded by Lieutenant Riou, had left the +Cape about eight days before with cattle and stores for Port +Jackson. This day anchored in table bay the Astree, a French +frigate, commanded by the Count de St. Rivel from the Isle of +France, on board of which ship was the late governor, the +Chevalier d'Entrecasteaux. Other ships that arrived during my +stay at the Cape were a French 40-gun frigate, an East India +ship, and a brig, of the same nation: likewise two other French +ships with slaves from the coast of Mozambique bound to the West +Indies: a Dutch packet from Europe, after a four months passage: +and the Harpy, a South Sea Whaler with 500 barrels of spermaceti, +and 400 of seal and other oils. There is a standing order from +the Dutch East India Company that no person who takes a passage +from Batavia for Europe in any of their ships shall be allowed to +leave the ship before she arrives at her intended port. According +to which regulation I must have gone to Holland in the packet. Of +this I was not informed till I was taking leave of the +governor-general at Batavia, when it was too late for him to give +the Captain an order to permit me to land in the channel. He +however desired I would make use of his name to governor Vander +Graaf, who readily complied with my request and gave the +necessary orders to the Captain of the packet, a copy of which +his excellency gave to me; and at the same time recommendatory +letters to people of consequence in Holland in case I should be +obliged to proceed so far.</p> + +<p>I left a letter at the Cape of Good Hope to be forwarded to +governor Phillips at Port Jackson by the first opportunity, +containing a short account of my voyage with a descriptive list +of the pirates: and from Batavia I had written to Lord +Cornwallis, so that every part of India will be prepared to +receive them.</p> + +<p>Saturday 2.</p> + +<p>We sailed from the Cape in company with the Astree French +frigate. The next morning neither ship nor land were in sight. On +the 15th we passed in sight of the island St. Helena. The 21st we +saw the island Ascension. On the 10th of February, the wind being +at north-east blowing fresh, our sails were covered with a fine +orange-coloured dust. Fuego, the westernmost of the Cape de Verde +islands and the nearest land to us on that day at noon bore +north-east by east half east, distance 140 leagues. When we had +passed the latitude of the Western Islands a lookout was kept for +some rocks which Captain Couvret had been informed lay in +latitude 44 degrees 25 minutes north and 2 degrees 50 minutes +east longitude from the east end of St. Michael. This information +Captain Couvret had received from a person that he knew and who +said he had seen them. On the 13th of March we saw the Bill of +Portland and on the evening of the next day, Sunday March the +14th, I left the packet and was landed at Portsmouth by an Isle +of Wight boat.</p> + +<p>Those of my officers and people whom I left at Batavia were +provided with passages in the earliest ships; and at the time we +parted were apparently in good health. Nevertheless they did not +all live to quit Batavia. Mr. Elphinstone, master's mate, and +Peter Linkletter, seaman, died within a fortnight after my +departure, the hardships they had experienced having rendered +them unequal to cope with so unhealthy a climate as that of +Batavia. The remainder embarked on board the Dutch fleet for +Europe, and arrived safe at this country, except Robert Lamb, who +died on the passage, and Mr. Ledward the surgeon who has not yet +been heard of. Thus of nineteen who were forced by the mutineers +into the launch it has pleased God that twelve should surmount +the difficulties and dangers of the voyage and live to revisit +their native country.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> + + +<h2>The End</h2> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's A Voyage to the South Sea, by William Bligh + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEA *** + +***** This file should be named 15411-h.htm or 15411-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/4/1/15411/ + +Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat. + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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