1 files changed, 8668 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/15411.txt b/15411.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d750999
--- /dev/null
+++ b/15411.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,8668 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Voyage to the South Sea, by William Bligh
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A Voyage to the South Sea
+       For The Purpose Of Conveying The Bread-Fruit Tree To The West Indies,
+       Including An Account Of The Mutiny On Board The Ship
+
+
+Author: William Bligh
+
+Release Date: March 19, 2005 [EBook #15411]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat.
+
+
+
+
+
+A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEA
+
+BY WILLIAM BLIGH.
+
+
+
+A
+
+VOYAGE
+
+TO THE SOUTH SEA,
+
+UNDERTAKEN BY COMMAND OF
+
+HIS MAJESTY,
+
+FOR THE PURPOSE OF
+
+CONVEYING THE BREAD-FRUIT TREE
+
+TO THE WEST INDIES,
+
+IN HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP THE BOUNTY,
+
+COMMANDED BY
+
+LIEUTENANT WILLIAM BLIGH.
+
+INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE
+
+MUTINY ON BOARD THE SAID SHIP,
+
+AND THE
+
+SUBSEQUENT VOYAGE OF PART OF THE CREW, IN THE SHIP'S BOAT,
+
+FROM TOFOA, ONE OF THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS,
+
+TO TIMOR, A DUTCH SETTLEMENT IN THE EAST INDIES.
+
+THE WHOLE ILLUSTRATED WITH CHARTS, ETC.
+
+...
+
+PUBLISHED BY PERMISSION OF THE
+
+LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY.
+
+...
+
+LONDON:
+
+PRINTED FOR GEORGE NICOL, BOOKSELLER TO HIS MAJESTY, PALL-MALL.
+
+1792.
+
+...
+
+
+ADVERTISEMENT.
+
+At the time I published the Narrative of the Mutiny on Board the Bounty
+it was my intention that the preceding part of the Voyage should be
+contained in a separate account. This method I have since been induced to
+alter. The reason of the Narrative appearing first was for the purpose of
+communicating early information concerning an event which had attracted
+the public notice: and, being drawn up in a hasty manner, it required
+many corrections. Some circumstances likewise were omitted; and the
+notation of time used in the Narrative being according to sea reckoning,
+in which the days begin and end at noon, must have produced a degree of
+obscurity and confusion to readers accustomed only to the civil mode. And
+this would have increased as the remainder of the voyage, on account of
+the numerous shore occurrences at Otaheite and elsewhere, could not, with
+clearness and propriety, have been related in any other than the usual
+manner of reckoning.
+
+Besides remedying these inconveniencies I have thought a fuller account
+of our passage from Timor to Europe than that contained in the Narrative
+would not be unacceptable. These reasons, with the manifest convenience
+of comprising the whole Voyage in one continued narrative, in preference
+to letting it appear in disjointed accounts will, it is hoped, be allowed
+a sufficient excuse for having varied from the original intention.
+Nevertheless for the accommodation of the purchasers of the Narrative
+already published those who desire it will be supplied with the other
+parts of the Voyage separate; i.e. the part previous to the mutiny and
+the additional account after leaving Timor.
+
+...
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER 1.
+
+Plan of the Expedition.
+Outfit and Occurrences to the time of leaving England.
+Description of the Breadfruit.
+
+
+CHAPTER 2.
+
+Departure from England.
+Arrival at Tenerife.
+Sail from thence.
+Arrival off Cape Horn.
+Severity of the Weather.
+Obliged to bear away for the Cape of Good Hope.
+
+
+CHAPTER 3.
+
+Passage towards the Cape of Good Hope and Search after Tristan da Cunha.
+Arrival at False Bay.
+Occurrences there.
+Reports concerning the Grosvenor's People.
+Departure from the Cape.
+
+
+CHAPTER 4.
+
+Passage towards Van Diemen's Land.
+Make the Island of St. Paul.
+Arrival in Adventure Bay.
+Natives seen.
+Sail from Van Diemen's Land.
+
+
+CHAPTER 5.
+
+Rocky Islands discovered.
+See the Island Maitea and arrive at Otaheite.
+Ship crowded by the Natives.
+
+
+CHAPTER 6.
+
+Account of an English Ship lately sailed from Otaheite.
+Death of Omai.
+Captain Cook's Picture sent on board.
+Otoo visits the Ship.
+His Visit returned.
+Natives well disposed towards us.
+Account of the Cattle left by Captain Cook.
+Breadfruit plants promised.
+Visit to the Earee Rahie.
+Presents made to the Arreoys.
+
+
+CHAPTER 7.
+
+A theft committed.
+Deception of the painted Head.
+Conversation with a Priest.
+A Wrestling Match.
+Reports of the Natives concerning other Islands.
+Some Account of Omai.
+
+
+CHAPTER 8.
+
+Expedition to Tettaba after a Heifer.
+Extraordinary domestic Arrangements.
+Tinah's Mother visits the Ship.
+A Sheep brought from Ulietea.
+Heavy Storm.
+Death of the Surgeon.
+Taowne and Toahroah Harbours examined.
+
+
+CHAPTER 9.
+
+A Walk into the Country.
+The Peeah Roah.
+Prevailed on by the Kindness of the Chiefs to defer our Departure.
+Breadfruit Plants collected.
+Move the Ship to Toahroah Harbour.
+Fishing.
+Three of the Ship's Company desert.
+Indiscretion of our People on Shore.
+Instances of Jealousy.
+Mourning.
+Bull brought to Oparre by a Prophet.
+The Deserters recovered.
+Tinah proposes to visit England.
+
+
+CHAPTER 10.
+
+The Ship's Cable cut in the Night.
+Coolness with the Chiefs on that Account.
+Visit to an old Lady.
+Disturbance at a Heiva.
+Tinah's Hospitality.
+A Thief taken and punished.
+Preparations for sailing.
+
+
+CHAPTER 11.
+
+Arrival of an Arreoy Woman from Tethuroa.
+A Present delivered by Tinah for his Majesty.
+Other Occurrences to the Time of the Ship's Departure from Otaheite.
+
+
+CHAPTER 12.
+
+At the Island Huaheine.
+A Friend of Omai visits the Ship.
+Leave the Society Islands.
+A Water-spout.
+The Island Whytootackee discovered.
+Anchor in Annamooka Road.
+Our Parties on Shore robbed by the Natives.
+Sail from Annamooka.
+The Chiefs detained on board.
+Part friendly.
+
+
+CHAPTER 13.
+
+A Mutiny in the Ship.
+
+
+CHAPTER 14.
+
+Proceed in the Launch to the Island Tofoa.
+Difficulty in obtaining Supplies there.
+Treacherous Attack of the Natives.
+Escape to Sea and bear away for New Holland.
+
+
+CHAPTER 15.
+
+Passage towards New Holland.
+Islands discovered in our Route.
+Our great Distresses.
+See the Reefs of New Holland and find a Passage through them.
+
+
+CHAPTER 16.
+
+Progress to the Northward along the Coast of New Holland.
+Land on different Islands in search of Supplies.
+
+
+CHAPTER 17.
+
+Passage from New Holland to the Island Timor.
+Arrive at Coupang.
+Reception there.
+
+
+CHAPTER 18.
+
+At Coupang.
+
+
+CHAPTER 19.
+
+From Timor to Batavia.
+
+
+CHAPTER 20.
+
+Occurrences at Batavia and Passage thence to England.
+
+...
+
+(LIST OF THE PLATES.
+
+Head of Lieutenant Bligh.
+
+Plan and profile of the deck of the Bounty.
+
+Sections of the Breadfruit.
+
+Plan of Toahroah harbour.
+
+Copy of the draught from which the Bounty's launch was built.
+
+Chart of Islands discovered from the launch.
+
+Chart of part of the north-east coast of New Holland.
+
+Chart of the track of the launch from Tofoa to Timor.)
+
+...
+
+
+
+A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, ETC.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 1.
+
+Plan of the Expedition.
+Outfit and Occurrences to the time of leaving England.
+Description of the Breadfruit.
+
+1787.
+
+The King having been graciously pleased to comply with a request from the
+merchants and planters interested in his Majesty's West India possessions
+that the breadfruit tree might be introduced into those islands, a vessel
+proper for the undertaking was bought and taken into dock at Deptford to
+be provided with the necessary fixtures and preparations for executing
+the object of the voyage. These were completed according to a plan of my
+much honoured friend, Sir Joseph Banks, which in the event proved the
+most advantageous that could have been adopted for the intended purpose.
+
+August 16.
+
+The ship was named the Bounty: I was appointed to command her on the 16th
+of August 1787. Her burthen was nearly two hundred and fifteen tons; her
+extreme length on deck ninety feet ten inches; extreme breadth
+twenty-four feet three inches; and height in the hold under the beams at
+the main hatchway ten feet three inches. In the cockpit were the cabins
+of the surgeon, gunner, botanist, and clerk, with a steward-room and
+storerooms. The between decks was divided in the following manner: the
+great cabin was appropriated for the preservation of the plants and
+extended as far forward as the after hatchway. It had two large
+skylights, and on each side three scuttles for air, and was fitted with a
+false floor cut full of holes to contain the garden-pots in which the
+plants were to be brought home. The deck was covered with lead, and at
+the foremost corners of the cabin were fixed pipes to carry off the water
+that drained from the plants into tubs placed below to save it for future
+use. I had a small cabin on one side to sleep in, adjoining to the great
+cabin, and a place near the middle of the ship to eat in. The bulk-head
+of this apartment was at the after-part of the main hatchway, and on each
+side of it were the berths of the mates and midshipmen; between these
+berths the arm-chest was placed. The cabin of the master, in which was
+always kept the key of the arms, was opposite to mine. This particular
+description of the interior parts of the ship is rendered necessary by
+the event of the expedition.
+
+The ship was masted according to the proportion of the navy; but on my
+application the masts were shortened, as I thought them too much for her,
+considering the nature of the voyage.
+
+September 3.
+
+On the 3rd of September the ship came out of dock; but the carpenters and
+joiners remained on board much longer, as they had a great deal of work
+to finish.
+
+The next material alteration made in the fitting out was lessening the
+quantity of iron and other ballast. I gave directions that only nineteen
+tons of iron should be taken on board instead of the customary proportion
+which was forty-five tons. The stores and provisions I judged would be
+fully sufficient to answer the purpose of the remainder; for I am of
+opinion that many of the misfortunes which attend ships in heavy storms
+of wind are occasioned by too much dead weight in their bottoms.
+
+The establishment of men and officers for the ship were as follows:
+
+1 Lieutenant to command.
+1 Master.
+1 Boatswain.
+1 Gunner.
+1 Carpenter.
+1 Surgeon.
+2 Master's Mates.
+2 Midshipmen.
+2 Quartermasters.
+1 Quartermaster's Mate.
+1 Boatswain's Mate.
+1 Gunner's Mate.
+1 Carpenter's Mate.
+1 Carpenter's Crew.
+1 Sailmaker.
+1 Armourer.
+1 Corporal.
+1 Clerk and Steward.
+23 Able Seamen.
+---
+44.
+
+Two skilful and careful men were appointed, at Sir Joseph Banks's
+recommendation, to have the management of the plants intended to be
+brought home: the one, David Nelson, who had been on similar employment
+in Captain Cook's last voyage; the other, William Brown, as an assistant
+to him. With these two our whole number amounted to forty-six.
+
+It was proposed that our route to the Society Islands should be round
+Cape Horn; and the greatest dispatch became necessary as the season was
+already far advanced: but the shipwrights not being able to complete
+their work by the time the ship was ready in other respects, our sailing
+was unavoidably retarded.
+
+October. Thursday 4.
+
+However by the 4th of October the pilot came on board to take us down the
+river.
+
+Tuesday 9.
+
+On the 9th we fell down to Long Reach where we received our gunner's
+stores and guns, four four-pounders and ten swivels.
+
+The ship was stored and victualled for eighteen months. In addition to
+the customary allowance of provisions we were supplied with sourkraut,
+portable soup, essence of malt, dried malt, and a proportion of barley
+and wheat in lieu of oatmeal. I was likewise furnished with a quantity of
+ironwork and trinkets to serve in our intercourse with the natives in the
+South Seas: and from the board of Longitude I received a timekeeper, made
+by Mr. Kendal.
+
+Monday 15.
+
+On the 15th I received orders to proceed to Spithead.
+
+November. Sunday 4.
+
+But the winds and weather were so unfavourable that we did not arrive
+there till the 4th of November. On the 24th I received from Lord Hood,
+who commanded at Spithead, my final orders. The wind, which for several
+days before had been favourable, was now turned directly against us.
+
+Wednesday 28.
+
+On the 28th the ship's company received two months pay in advance, and on
+the following morning we worked out to St. Helen's, where we were obliged
+to anchor.
+
+1787. December. Sunday 23.
+
+We made different unsuccessful attempts to get down Channel, but contrary
+winds and bad weather constantly forced us back to St. Helen's, or
+Spithead, until Sunday the 23rd of December when we sailed with a fair
+wind.
+
+During our stay at Spithead, the rate of the timepiece was several times
+examined by Mr. Bailey's observations at the Portsmouth observatory. On
+the 19th of December, the last time of its being examined on shore, it
+was 1 minute 52 seconds, 5 too fast for meantime, and then losing at the
+rate of 1 second, 1 per day; and at this rate I estimate its going when
+we sailed.
+
+The object of all the former voyages to the South Seas undertaken by the
+command of his present majesty, has been the advancement of science and
+the increase of knowledge. This voyage may be reckoned the first the
+intention of which has been to derive benefit from those distant
+discoveries. For the more fully comprehending the nature and plan of the
+expedition, and that the reader may be possessed of every information
+necessary for entering on the following sheets, I shall here lay before
+him a copy of the instructions I received from the admiralty, and
+likewise a short description of the breadfruit.
+
+BY THE COMMISSIONERS FOR EXECUTING THE OFFICE OF LORD HIGH ADMIRAL OF
+GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND, ETC.
+
+Whereas the king, upon a representation from the merchants and planters
+interested in his Majesty's West India possessions that the introduction
+of the breadfruit tree into the islands of those seas, to constitute an
+article of food, would be of very essential benefit to the inhabitants,
+hath, in order to promote the interests of so respectable a body of his
+subjects (especially in an instance which promises general advantage)
+thought fit that measures should be taken for the procuring some of those
+trees, and conveying them to the said West India islands: And whereas the
+vessel under your command hath, in consequence thereof, been stored and
+victualled for that service, and fitted with proper conveniences and
+necessaries for the preservation of as many of the said trees as, from
+her size, can be taken on board her; and you have been directed to
+receive on board her the two gardeners named in the margin, David Nelson,
+and William Brown, who, from their knowledge of trees and plants, have
+been hired for the purpose of selecting such as shall appear to be of a
+proper species and size:
+
+You are, therefore, in pursuance of his majesty's pleasure, signified to
+us by Lord Sydney, one of his principal secretaries of state, hereby
+required and directed to put to sea in the vessel you command, the first
+favourable opportunity of wind and weather, and proceed with her, as
+expeditiously as possible, round Cape Horn, to the Society Islands,
+situate in the Southern ocean, in the latitude of about eighteen degrees
+south, and longitude of about two hundred and ten degrees east from
+Greenwich, where, according to the accounts given by the late Captain
+Cook, and persons who accompanied him during his voyages, the breadfruit
+tree is to be found in the most luxuriant state.
+
+Having arrived at the above-mentioned islands, and taken on board as many
+trees and plants as may be thought necessary (the better to enable you to
+do which, you have already been furnished with such articles of
+merchandise and trinkets as it is supposed will be wanted to satisfy the
+natives) you are to proceed from thence through Endeavour Straits (which
+separate New Holland from New Guinea) to Prince's Island in the Straits
+of Sunda, or, if it should happen to be more convenient, to pass on the
+eastern side of Java to some port on the north side of that island, where
+any breadfruit trees which may have been injured, or have died, may be
+replaced by mangosteens, duriens, jacks, nancas, lanfas, and other fine
+fruit trees of that quarter, as well as the rice plant which grows upon
+dry land; all of which species (or such of them as shall be judged most
+eligible) you are to purchase on the best terms you can from the
+inhabitants of that island with the ducats with which you have also been
+furnished for that purpose; taking care however, if the rice plants
+above-mentioned cannot be procured at Java, to touch at Prince's Island
+for them, where they are regularly cultivated.
+
+From Prince's Island, or the Island of Java, you are to proceed round the
+Cape of Good Hope to the West Indies (calling on your way thither at any
+places which may be thought necessary) and deposit one half of such of
+the above-mentioned trees and plants as may be then alive at his
+majesty's botanical garden at St. Vincent, for the benefit of the
+Windward Islands, and then go on to Jamaica: and, having delivered the
+remainder to Mr. East, or such person or persons as may be authorised by
+the governor and council of that island to receive them, refreshed your
+people, and received on board such provisions and stores as may be
+necessary for the voyage, make the best of your way back to England;
+repairing to Spithead, and sending to our secretary an account of your
+arrival and proceedings.
+
+And whereas you will receive herewith a copy of the instructions which
+have been given to the above-mentioned gardeners for their guidance, as
+well as in procuring the said trees and plants, and the management of
+them after they shall be put on board, as for bringing to England a small
+sample of each species, and such others as may be prepared by the
+superintendent of the botanical garden at St. Vincent's, and by the said
+Mr. East, or others, for his majesty's garden at Kew; you are hereby
+required and directed to afford, and to give directions to your officers
+and company to afford, the said gardeners every possible aid and
+assistance, not only in the collecting of the said trees and plants at
+the places before mentioned, but for their preservation during their
+conveyance to the places of their destination.
+
+Given under our hands the 20th November 1787.
+
+HOWE,
+CHARLES BRETT,
+RD. HOPKINS,
+J. LEVESON GOWER.
+
+To Lieutenant William Bligh, commanding his majesty's armed vessel the
+Bounty at Spithead.
+
+By command of their Lordships,
+
+P. STEPHENS.
+
+...
+
+In the foregoing orders it is to be observed that I was particularly
+directed to proceed round Cape Horn but, as the season was so far
+advanced and we were so long detained by contrary winds, I made
+application to the Admiralty for discretional orders on that point; to
+which I received the following answer:
+
+BY THE COMMISSIONERS FOR EXECUTING THE OFFICE OF LORD HIGH ADMIRAL OF
+GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND, ETC. ETC.
+
+The season of the year being now so far advanced as to render it probable
+that your arrival with the vessel you command on the southern coast of
+America will be too late for your passing round Cape Horn without much
+difficulty and hazard, you are in that case at liberty (notwithstanding
+former orders) to proceed in her to Otaheite, round the Cape of Good
+Hope.
+
+Given under our hands the 18th December 1787.
+
+HOWE,
+CHARLES BRETT,
+BAYHAM.
+
+To Lieutenant William Bligh, commanding His Majesty's armed vessel
+Bounty, Spithead.
+
+By command of their Lordships,
+
+P. Stephens.
+
+...
+
+The Breadfruit is so well known and described that to attempt a new
+account of it would be unnecessary and useless. However as it may
+contribute to the convenience of the reader I have given the following
+extracts respecting it with the plate annexed.
+
+EXTRACT FROM THE ACCOUNT OF DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD PERFORMED IN
+1688.
+
+The breadfruit (as we call it) grows on a large tree, as big and high as
+our largest apple-trees: It hath a spreading head, full of branches and
+dark leaves. The fruit grows on the boughs like apples; it is as big as a
+penny-loaf when wheat is at five shillings the bushel; it is of a round
+shape, and hath a thick tough rind. When the fruit is ripe it is yellow
+and soft, and the taste is sweet and pleasant. The natives of Guam use it
+for bread. They gather it, when full-grown, while it is green and hard;
+then they bake it in an oven, which scorches the rind and makes it black;
+but they scrape off the outside black crust, and there remains a tender
+thin crust; and the inside is soft, tender, and white like the crumb of a
+penny-loaf. There is NEITHER SEED NOR STONE in the inside, but all is of
+a pure substance, like bread. It must be eaten new; for, if it is kept
+above twenty-four hours, it grows harsh and choaky; but it is very
+pleasant before it is too stale. This fruit lasts in season EIGHT MONTHS
+in the year, during which the natives eat NO OTHER SORT OF FOOD OF BREAD
+KIND. I did never see of this fruit anywhere but here. The natives told
+us that there is plenty of this fruit growing on the rest of the Ladrone
+islands; and I DID NEVER HEAR OF IT ANYWHERE ELSE. Volume 1 page 296.
+
+...
+
+EXTRACT FROM THE ACCOUNT OF LORD ANSON'S VOYAGE, PUBLISHED BY MR. WALTER.
+
+There was at Tinian a kind of fruit, peculiar to these (Ladrone) islands,
+called by the Indians rhymay, but by us the breadfruit; for it was
+constantly eaten by us, during our stay upon the island, * instead of
+bread; and so UNIVERSALLY PREFERRED that no ship's bread was expended in
+that whole interval. It grew upon a tree which is somewhat lofty, and
+which towards the top divides into large and spreading branches. The
+leaves of this tree are of a remarkable deep green, are notched about the
+edges, and are generally from a foot to eighteen inches in length. The
+fruit itself is found indifferently on all parts of the branches; it is
+in shape rather elliptical than round; it is covered with a tough rind
+and is usually seven or eight inches long; each of them grows singly and
+not in clusters. This fruit is fittest to be used when it is full-grown
+but still green; in which state, after it is properly prepared by being
+roasted in the embers, its taste has some distant resemblance to that of
+an artichoke's bottom, and its texture is not very different, for it is
+soft and spongy.
+
+(*Footnote. About two months, namely from the latter end of August to the
+latter end of October, 1742.)
+
+...
+
+EXTRACTS FROM THE ACCOUNT OF THE FIRST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN COOK.
+HAWKESWORTH, VOLUME 2.
+
+IN THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.
+
+The breadfruit grows on a tree that is about the size of a middling oak;
+its leaves are frequently a foot and a half long, of an oblong shape,
+deeply sinuated like those of the fig-tree, which they resemble in
+consistence and colour, and in the exuding of a white milky juice upon
+being broken. The fruit is about the size and shape of a child's head,
+and the surface is reticulated not much unlike a truffle: it is covered
+with a thin skin, and has a core about as big as the handle of a small
+knife. The eatable part lies between the skin and the core; it is as
+white as snow, and somewhat of the consistence of new bread: it must be
+roasted before it is eaten, being first divided into three or four parts.
+Its taste is insipid, with a slight sweetness somewhat resembling that of
+the crumb of wheaten bread mixed with a Jerusalem artichoke.
+
+Pages 80, 81. See also the plate there and at page 232.
+
+Of the many vegetables that have been mentioned already as serving them
+for food, the principal is the breadfruit, to procure which costs them no
+trouble or labour but climbing a tree. The tree which produces it does
+not indeed shoot up spontaneously, but if a man plants ten of them in his
+lifetime, which he may do in about an hour, he will as completely fulfil
+his duty to his own and future generations as the native of our less
+temperate climate can do by ploughing in the cold winter, and reaping in
+the summer's heat, as often as these seasons return; even if, after he
+has procured bread for his present household, he should convert a surplus
+into money, and lay it up for his children.
+
+It is true indeed that the breadfruit is not always in season; but
+coconuts, bananas, plantains, and a great variety of other fruits supply
+the deficiency. Page 197.
+
+EXTRACT FROM THE ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK'S LAST VOYAGE.
+
+IN THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.
+
+I (Captain Cook) have inquired very carefully into their manner of
+cultivating the breadfruit tree at Otaheite; but was always answered that
+they never planted it. This indeed must be evident to everyone who will
+examine the places where the young trees come up. It will be always
+observed that they spring from the roots of the old ones which run along
+near the surface of the ground. So that the breadfruit trees may be
+reckoned those that would naturally cover the plains, even supposing that
+the island was not inhabited, in the same manner that the white-barked
+trees, found at Van Diemen's Land, constitute the forests there. And from
+this we may observe that the inhabitant of Otaheite, instead of being
+obliged to plant his bread, will RATHER be under the necessity of
+preventing its progress; which I suppose is sometimes done to give room
+for trees of another sort, to afford him some variety in his food. Volume
+2 page 145.
+
+IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
+
+The breadfruit trees are planted, and flourish with great luxuriance, on
+rising grounds. Where the hills rise almost perpendicularly in a great
+variety of peaked forms, their steep sides and the deep chasms between
+them are covered with trees, amongst which those of the breadfruit were
+observed particularly to abound. Volume 3 pages 105 and 114, containing
+Captain King's Narrative.
+
+The climate of the Sandwich Islands differs very little from that of the
+West India Islands, which lie IN THE SAME LATITUDE. Upon the whole
+perhaps it may be rather more temperate. Captain King ib page 116.
+
+The breadfruit trees thrive in these islands, not in such abundance, but
+produce double the quantity of fruit they do on the rich plains of
+Otaheite. The trees are nearly of the same height, but the branches begin
+to strike out from the trunk much lower, and with greater luxuriance.
+Captain King ib page 120.
+
+
+CHAPTER 2.
+
+Departure from England.
+Arrival at Tenerife.
+Sail from thence.
+Arrival off Cape Horn.
+Severity of the Weather.
+Obliged to bear away for the Cape of Good Hope.
+
+1787. December. Sunday 23.
+
+On Sunday morning the 23rd of December 1787 we sailed from Spithead and,
+passing through the Needles, directed our course down channel with a
+fresh gale of wind at east. In the afternoon one of the seamen, in
+furling the main-top-gallant-sail, fell off the yard and was so fortunate
+as to save himself by catching hold of the main-top-mast-stay in his
+fall. At night the wind increased to a strong gale with a heavy sea.
+
+Tuesday 25.
+
+It moderated however on the 25th and allowed us to keep our Christmas
+with cheerfulness; but the following day it blew a severe storm of wind
+from the eastward, which continued till the 29th, in the course of which
+we suffered greatly. One sea broke away the spare yards and spars out of
+the starboard main chains. Another heavy sea broke into the ship and
+stove all the boats. Several casks of beer that had been lashed upon deck
+were broke loose and washed overboard, and it was not without great
+difficulty and risk that we were able to secure the boats from being
+washed away entirely.
+
+Saturday 29.
+
+On the 29th we were in latitude 39 degrees 35 minutes north and longitude
+14 degrees 26 minutes west when the gale abated and the weather became
+fair. Besides other mischief done to us by the storm, a large quantity of
+our bread was damaged and rendered useless, for the sea had stove in our
+stern and filled the cabin with water. From this time to our arrival at
+Tenerife we had moderate weather and winds mostly from the northward.
+
+1788. January.
+
+January 4.
+
+This forenoon we spoke a French ship bound to the Mauritius.
+
+Saturday 5. Tenerife.
+
+The next day at nine in the forenoon we saw the island of Tenerife
+bearing west-south-west half west about twelve leagues distant. It was
+covered with a thick haze except the north-westernmost part which is a
+remarkable headland, resembling a horse's head, the ears very distinct.
+To the eastward of this head* lie two round rocks, the northern boundary
+of Tenerife. I had a good observation at noon by which I make the
+latitude of the two rocks 28 degrees 44 minutes north and their longitude
+by our timekeeper 16 degrees 5 minutes west. To the southward of these
+and near the shore is a high needle rock: about four leagues farther to
+the southward the coast inclines towards the west to the road of Santa
+Cruz, where we anchored at half-past nine on Sunday morning in
+twenty-five fathoms water, and moored along shore in the same depth, with
+the cupola tower of the church of St. Francis bearing west half north one
+mile, the east part of the road east by north, the castle on the south
+point south-west, and the west part of the Grand Canary south-south-east.
+A Spanish packet bound to Corunna, an American brig, and several other
+vessels, were lying here.
+
+(*Footnote. South 82 degrees east by the compass.)
+
+As soon as the ship was anchored I sent an officer (Mr. Christian) to
+wait on the governor and to acquaint him I had put in to obtain
+refreshments and to repair the damages we had sustained in bad weather.
+To this I had a very polite answer from the governor, * that I should be
+supplied with whatever the island afforded. I had also directed the
+officer to acquaint him that I would salute, provided an equal number of
+guns were to be returned but, as I received an extraordinary answer to
+this part of my message, purporting that his excellency did not return
+the same number but to persons equal in rank to himself, this ceremony
+was omitted.
+
+(*Footnote. Marquis de Brancheforte.)
+
+During this interval I was visited by the port-master (Captain Adams) and
+shortly afterwards several officers came on board from his excellency to
+compliment me on my arrival. As soon as the ship was moored I went on
+shore and paid my respects to him.
+
+Monday 7.
+
+On Monday morning I began to forward the ship's business with the utmost
+dispatch, and gave the necessary directions to Messrs. Collogan and sons,
+the contractors, for the supplies I wanted. I also got leave of the
+governor for Mr. Nelson to range the hills and examine the country in
+search of plants and natural curiosities.
+
+As there was a great surf on the shore I bargained for everything I
+wanted to be brought off by the shore boats, and agreed to give five
+shillings per ton for water. Very good wine was bought at ten pounds per
+pipe, the contract price; but the superior quality was fifteen pounds;
+and some of this was not much inferior to the best London Madeira. I
+found this was an unfavourable season for other refreshments: Indian
+corn, potatoes, pumpkins, and onions, were all very scarce and double the
+price of what they are in summer. Beef also was difficult to be procured
+and exceedingly poor; the price nearly sixpence farthing per pound. The
+corn was three current dollars per fanega, which is full five shillings
+per bushel; and biscuit at twenty-five shillings for the hundred pounds.
+Poultry was so scarce that a good fowl cost three shillings. This is
+therefore not a place for ships to expect refreshments at a reasonable
+price at this time of the year, wine excepted; but from March to November
+supplies are plentiful, particularly fruit, of which at this time we
+could procure none except a few dried figs and some bad oranges.
+
+NAUTICAL REMARKS.
+
+During our stay here the weather was fair with north-east winds and calms
+and small drizzling rain in the night. The thermometer from 66 to 69
+degrees at noon in the shade. I could make no lunar observations for the
+longitude, but by the help of the timekeeper I have computed the
+situation of the town of Santa Cruz to be 28 degrees 28 minutes north
+latitude and 16 degrees 18 minutes west longitude. I observed the
+variation by two compasses to be 20 degrees 1 minute west: this much
+exceeded what I could have imagined; for in 1776 I observed it only 14
+degrees 40 minutes west; a difference of above five degrees in eleven
+years: and this makes me reflect on the uncertainty of obtaining the
+exact deviation of the magnetic pole, and of course its annual variation
+which never can be accurately ascertained unless the observations are
+made always in one spot and with the same compass.
+
+Tenerife, though considerably without the tropic, is so nearly within the
+limits of the tradewind that navigators generally steer to it from the
+eastward. The road of Santa Cruz lies on the east side of the island, at
+the end of a range of craggy hills, barren and very lofty, along with you
+sail west by south by compass into the road, with a sea unfathomable
+until near the shore. The anchoring ground may be accounted from fifty
+fathoms to twenty, or even fifteen. The bank is very steep and gives but
+little time to sound; for which reason it should be done effectually with
+a heavy lead, or a ship will be too near in before a stranger is aware of
+it: he will likewise too soon expect to find bottom, owing to the great
+deception of the adjacent high land. To obviate these difficulties it is
+necessary to observe that while a town which lies some distance to the
+southward of Santa Cruz is open with the castle on the south part of the
+road, though you may appear near to the shore, there is no anchorage; but
+after it is shut entirely in you get on the bank. The church bearing west
+or west by south and the south point of the road south-west half south to
+south-west by west is a good situation for anchoring: the depth about
+twenty-five fathoms. The distance from the shore will be three quarters
+of a mile; and the southernmost land that can be seen then will be a half
+or quarter point of the compass farther out than the south point of the
+road.
+
+The bottom is black soft mud, with some patches of rocks; for which
+reason vessels that lie here any length of time buoy their cables. This
+precaution, besides being useful in that particular, they think makes
+them ride more easy when there is much sea setting into the road, which,
+with the wind any way to the southward of east or at south-west, must be
+very considerable; it is therefore usual to moor with four anchors,
+though more than two are scarce ever of use. Mooring is however advisable
+if a ship is only to remain twenty-four hours, and the tighter the
+better, that the cables may keep clear of the ground.
+
+The landing on the beach is generally impracticable with our own boats,
+at least without great risk; but there is a very fine pier on which
+people may land without difficulty if there is not much swell in the
+road. To this pier the water is conveyed by pipes for the use of
+shipping, and for which all merchant-ships pay.
+
+There is a degree of wretchedness and want among the lower class of
+people which is not anywhere so common as among the Spanish and
+Portuguese settlements. To alleviate these evils the present governor of
+Tenerife has instituted a most charitable society which he takes the
+trouble to superintend; and by considerable contributions a large airy
+dwelling that contains one hundred and twenty poor girls and as many men
+and boys has been built and endowed with a sufficiency of land round it,
+not only for all present purposes but for enlarging the building for more
+objects of charity as their funds increase. I had the honour to be shown
+by his excellency this asylum (Hospicio they call it) where there
+appeared in every countenance the utmost cheerfulness and content. The
+decency and neatness of the dress of the young females, with the order in
+which they were arranged at their spinning-wheels and looms in an
+extensive airy apartment, was admirable. A governess inspected and
+regulated all their works, which were the manufacturing of ribbons of all
+colours, coarse linens, and tapes; all which were managed and brought to
+perfection by themselves from the silk and flax in their first state;
+even the dying of the colours is performed by them. These girls are
+received for five years, at the end of which they are at liberty to
+marry, and have for their portions their wheel and loom, with a sum of
+money proportioned to the state of the fund, which is assisted by the
+produce of their labour, and at this time was estimated at two thousand
+dollars per annum.
+
+The men and boys are not less attended to: they are employed in coarser
+work, blanketing and all kinds of common woollens: if they become infirm
+they spend the remainder of their days here comfortably and under a
+watchful inspector who attends them in the same manner as the governess
+does the girls. They are all visited every day by the governor, and a
+clergyman attends them every evening. By this humane institution a number
+of people are rendered useful and industrious in a country where the
+poor, from the indulgence of the climate, are too apt to prefer a life of
+inactivity, though attended with wretchedness, to obtaining the comforts
+of life by industry and labour.
+
+The number of inhabitants in the island I was informed were estimated at
+between eighty and one hundred thousand. Their annual export of wine is
+twenty thousand pipes and of brandy half that quantity. Vessels are
+frequently here from St. Eustatia, and from thence a great quantity of
+Tenerife wine is carried to the different parts of the West Indies, under
+the name of Madeira.
+
+Tenerife is considered of more value than all the other Canaries: the
+inhabitants however, in scarce seasons, receive supplies from the Grand
+Canary; but their vineyards here are said to be greatly superior. Their
+produce of corn, though exceedingly good, is not sufficient for their
+consumption; and owing to this the Americans have an advantageous trade
+here for their flour and grain, and take wine in return.
+
+The town of Santa Cruz is about half a mile in extent each way, built in
+a regular manner, and the houses in general large and airy, but the
+streets are very ill paved. I am told that they are subject to few
+diseases; but if any epidemic distemper breaks out it is attended with
+the most fatal consequences, particularly the smallpox, the bad effects
+of which they now endeavour to counteract by inoculation. For this reason
+they are very circumspect in admitting ships to have communication with
+the shore without bills of health.
+
+A sloop from London, called the Chance, William Meridith, master, bound
+to Barbados, out nineteen days from the Downs, came into the road the day
+before we sailed. She had suffered much by the bad weather but, having
+brought no bill of health, the governor would not allow any person to
+come on shore unless I could vouch for them that no epidemic disease
+raged in England at the time they sailed, which I was able to do, it
+being nearly at the same time that I left the land; and by that means
+they had the governor's permission to receive the supplies they wanted
+without being obliged to perform quarantine.
+
+Thursday 10.
+
+Having finished our business at Tenerife on Thursday the 10th we sailed
+with the wind at south-east, our ship's company all in good health and
+spirits.
+
+I now divided the people into three watches, and gave the charge of the
+third watch to Mr. Fletcher Christian, one of the mates. I have always
+considered this as a desirable regulation when circumstances will admit
+of it on many accounts; and am persuaded that unbroken rest not only
+contributes much towards the health of a ship's company but enables them
+more readily to exert themselves in cases of sudden emergency.
+
+As it was my wish to proceed to Otaheite without stopping I ordered
+everybody to be at two-thirds allowance of bread: I also directed the
+water for drinking to be filtered though dripstones that I had bought at
+Tenerife for that purpose.
+
+In the evening we passed the south end of Tenerife which is a round lump
+of land that, from the lowness of the contiguous land, has at a distance
+the appearance of a separate island. By our run from the bay of Santa
+Cruz I make the latitude of the south end of Tenerife to be 28 degrees 6
+minutes north.
+
+We ran all night towards the south-south-west having the wind at
+south-east. The next morning we could see nothing of the land. I now made
+the ship's company acquainted with the intent of the voyage and, having
+been permitted to hold out this encouragement to them, I gave assurances
+of the certainty of promotion to everyone whose endeavours should merit
+it.
+
+The winds for some days after leaving Tenerife were mostly from the
+southward. Fishing-lines and tackle were distributed amongst the people
+and some dolphins were caught.
+
+Thursday 17.
+
+On the 17th the wind came round to the north-east and continued steady in
+that quarter till the 25th on which day at noon we were in 3 degrees 54
+minutes north. As the cloudiness of the sky gave us reason to expect much
+rain we prepared the awnings with hoses for the convenience of saving
+water, in which we were not disappointed. From this time to our meeting
+with the south-east tradewind we had much wet weather, the air close and
+sultry with calms, and light variable winds generally from the southward.
+
+Tuesday 29.
+
+On the 29th there was so heavy a fall of rain that we caught seven
+hundred gallons of water.
+
+Thursday 31.
+
+On the 31st, latitude at noon 2 degrees 5 minutes north, found a current
+setting to the north-east at the rate of fourteen miles in the
+twenty-four hours. The thermometer was at 82 degrees in the shade, and 81
+1/2 degrees at the surface of the sea, so that the air and the water were
+within half a degree of the same temperature. At eight o'clock in the
+evening we observed a violent rippling in the sea about half a mile to
+the north-west of us which had very much the appearance of breakers. This
+I imagine to have been occasioned by a large school (or multitude) of
+fish as it was exactly in the track the ship had passed, so that if any
+real shoal had been there we must have seen it at the close of the
+evening when a careful lookout was always kept. However if it had
+appeared ahead of us instead of astern I should certainly have tacked to
+avoid it. To such appearances I attribute the accounts of many shoals
+within the tropics which cannot be found anywhere but in maps. Our
+latitude at this time was 2 degrees 8 minutes north and longitude 19
+degrees 43 minutes west. The next day we had more of these appearances
+from the number of schools of fish by which the ship was surrounded.
+
+February. Saturday 2.
+
+This morning we saw a sail to the north-north-west but at too great a
+distance to distinguish what she was.
+
+Monday 4.
+
+Had very heavy rain during which we nearly filled all our empty water
+casks. So much wet weather, with the closeness of the air, covered
+everything with mildew. The ship was aired below with fires and
+frequently sprinkled with vinegar; and every little interval of dry
+weather was taken advantage of to open all the hatchways, and clean the
+ship, and to have all the people's wet things washed and dried.
+
+With this weather and light unsteady winds we advanced but 2 1/2 degrees
+in twelve days; at the end of which time we were relieved by the
+south-east tradewind which we fell in with on the 6th at noon in latitude
+1 degree 21 minutes north and longitude 20 degrees 42 minutes west.
+
+Thursday 7.
+
+The next afternoon we crossed the equinoctial line in longitude 21
+degrees 50 minutes west. The weather became fine and the south-east
+tradewind was fresh and steady, with which we kept a point free from the
+wind and got to the southward at a good rate.
+
+The weather continuing dry we put some of our bread in casks, properly
+prepared for its reception, to preserve it from vermin: this experiment
+we afterwards found answered exceedingly well.
+
+Saturday 16.
+
+On the 16th at daylight we saw a sail to the southward. The next day we
+came up with her and found her to be the British Queen, Simon Paul,
+master, from London, bound to the Cape of Good Hope on the whale-fishery.
+She sailed from Falmouth the 5th of December, eighteen days before I left
+Spithead. By this ship I wrote to England. At sunset she was almost out
+of sight astern.
+
+Monday 18.
+
+In the course of this day's run the variation changed from west to east.
+According to our observations the true and magnetic meridians coincided
+in latitude 20 degrees 0 minutes south and longitude 31 degrees 15
+minutes west. At noon we were in latitude 20 degrees 44 minutes south and
+longitude 31 degrees 23 minutes west. In our advances towards the south
+the wind had gradually veered round to the east and was at this time at
+east-north-east. The weather after crossing the Line had been fine and
+clear, but the air so sultry as to occasion great faintness, the
+quicksilver in the thermometer in the daytime standing at between 81 and
+83 degrees, and one time at 85 degrees. In our passage through the
+northern tropic the air was temperate, the sun having then high south
+declination and the weather being generally fine till we lost the
+north-east tradewind; but such a thick haze surrounded the horizon that
+no object could be seen except at a very small distance. The haze
+commonly cleared away at sunset and gathered again at sunrise. Between
+the north-east and south-east tradewinds the calms and rains, if of long
+continuance, are very liable to produce sickness unless great attention
+is paid to keeping the ship clean and wholesome by giving all the air
+possible, drying between decks with fires, and drying and airing the
+people's clothes and bedding. Besides these precautions we frequently
+wetted with vinegar, and every evening the pumps were used as
+ventilators. With these endeavours to secure health we passed the low
+latitudes without a single complaint.
+
+The currents we met with were by no means regular, nor have I ever found
+them so in the middle of the ocean. However from the channel to the
+southward as far as Madeira there is generally a current setting to the
+south-south-east.
+
+Thursday 21.
+
+On the evening of the 21st a ship was seen in the north-east but at too
+great a distance to distinguish of what country.
+
+Friday 22.
+
+The next day the wind came round to the north and north-west so that we
+could no longer consider ourselves in the tradewind. Our latitude at noon
+was 25 degrees 55 minutes south, longitude 36 degrees 29 minutes west.
+Variation of the compass three degrees east.
+
+Saturday 23.
+
+Towards night the wind died away and we had some heavy showers of rain of
+which we profited by saving a ton of good water. The next day we caught a
+shark and five dolphins.
+
+Tuesday 26.
+
+We bent new sails and made other necessary preparations for encountering
+the weather that was to be expected in a high latitude. Our latitude at
+noon was 29 degrees 38 minutes south, longitude 41 degrees 44 minutes
+west. Variation 7 degrees 13 minutes east. In the afternoon, the wind
+being westerly and blowing strong in squalls, some butterflies and other
+insects like what we call horseflies were blown on board of us. No birds
+were seen except shearwaters. Our distance from the coast of Brazil at
+this time was above 100 leagues.
+
+March. Sunday 2.
+
+In the forenoon, after seeing that every person was clean, divine service
+was performed according to my usual custom on this day. I gave to Mr.
+Fletcher Christian, whom I had before directed to take charge of the
+third watch, a written order to act as lieutenant.
+
+Saturday 8.
+
+We were at noon in latitude 36 degrees 50 minutes south and longitude 52
+degrees 53 minutes west. The last four days we several times tried for
+soundings without finding bottom, though considerably to the westward of
+Captain Wallis' track, who had soundings at fifty-four fathoms depth in
+latitude 35 degrees 40 minutes south and longitude 49 degrees 54 minutes
+west. This day we tried with two hundred and forty fathoms of line but
+did not find bottom; at the same time, observing a rippling in the water,
+we tried the current by mooring a keg with one hundred fathoms of line,
+by which it appeared to run to the north-north-west at the rate of a mile
+and a half per hour. By the noon observation however we were eighteen
+miles to the southward of our reckoning. In the afternoon we saw a turtle
+floating and, not having much wind, hoisted a boat out and sent after it;
+but it was found to be in a putrid state with a number of crabs feeding
+upon it.
+
+The change of temperature began now to be sensibly felt, there being a
+variation in the thermometer since yesterday of eight degrees. That the
+people might not suffer by their own negligence I gave orders for their
+light tropical clothing to be put by, and made them dress in a manner
+more suited to a cold climate. I had provided for this before I left
+England by giving directions for such clothes to be purchased as were
+necessary.
+
+Monday 10.
+
+In the forenoon we struck soundings at eighty-three fathoms depth; our
+latitude 40 degrees 8 minutes south and longitude 55 degrees 40 minutes
+west. This I conclude to have been near the edge of the bank for, the
+wind being at south-south-west, we stood towards the south-east; and
+after running fourteen miles in that direction we could find no bottom
+with one hundred and sixty fathoms of line. In the night we stood towards
+the west-south-west with a southerly wind and got again into soundings.
+The next day we saw a great number of whales of an immense size that had
+two spout-holes on the back of the head. Upon a complaint made to me by
+the master I found it necessary to punish Matthew Quintal, one of the
+seamen, with two dozen lashes for insolence and mutinous behaviour.
+Before this I had not had occasion to punish any person on board.
+
+Wednesday 12.
+
+On the 12th we caught a porpoise by striking it with the grains. Everyone
+eat heartily of it; and it was so well liked that no part was wasted.
+
+Friday 14.
+
+On the 14th in the afternoon we saw a land-bird like a lark, and passed
+part of a dead whale that had been left by some whalers after they had
+taken the blubber off. Saw likewise two strange sail. The next day at
+noon our latitude was 43 degrees 6 minutes south and longitude 58 degrees
+42 minutes west. Had soundings at seventy-five fathoms; the bottom a fine
+greenish sand. Saw two hawks.
+
+Sunday 16.
+
+On the 16th another ship was seen to the west-north-west standing to the
+northward. Latitude at noon 43 degrees 34 minutes south. We continued
+running to the southward keeping in soundings.
+
+Wednesday 19.
+
+On the 19th at noon by my account we were within twenty leagues of Port
+Desire; but the wind blowing fresh from the north-west with thick foggy
+weather I did not attempt to make the land. We passed a good deal of
+rock-weed and saw many whales, and albatrosses and other seabirds.
+
+Thursday 20.
+
+On the 20th at noon our latitude was 50 degrees 24 minutes south and
+longitude 65 degrees 50 minutes west. In the afternoon the wind, which
+had for some time past been northerly, suddenly shifted to the
+west-south-west and blew hard.
+
+Sunday 23.
+
+We steered to the south-south-east and on the 23rd at two o'clock in the
+morning we discovered the coast of Tierra del Fuego bearing south-east.
+At nine in the forenoon we were off Cape St. Diego, the eastern part of
+Tierra del Fuego. Observed the variation here to be 21 degrees 23 east.
+The wind being unfavourable I thought it more advisable to go round to
+the eastward of Staten Land than to attempt passing through Straits le
+Maire. The two opposite coasts of the Straits exhibited very different
+appearances. The land of Tierra del Fuego hereabouts, though the interior
+parts are mountainous, yet near the coast is of a moderate height and, at
+the distance we were from it, had not an unpromising appearance. The
+coast of Staten Land near the Straits is mountainous and craggy, and
+remarkable for its high peaked hills. Straits le Maire is a fair opening
+which cannot well be mistaken; but if any doubt could remain, the
+different appearances of the opposite shores would sufficiently make the
+Straits known.
+
+I did not sail within less than six leagues of the coast that we might
+have the wind more regular and avoid being exposed to the heavy squalls
+that came off from the land. At noon Cape St. Anthony bore south and the
+westernmost of New Year's Isles south-east one-quarter south, five or six
+leagues. Latitude observed 54 degrees 28 minutes south, longitude 64
+degrees 4 minutes west.
+
+The sight of New Year's Harbour almost tempted me to put in; but the
+lateness of the season and the people being in good health determined me
+to lay aside all thoughts of refreshment until we should reach Otaheite.
+At two o'clock in the afternoon the easternmost of New Year's Isles,
+where Captain Cook observed the latitude to be 55 degrees 40 minutes
+south, bore from us south four leagues. We saw the entrance isles of New
+Year's harbour at the back of which the land is very craggy and
+mountainous. This must be a very convenient port to touch at as the
+access to it is safe and easy. The harbour lies south-south-east by
+compass from the north-east part of the easternmost of the New Year's
+Islands.
+
+About two leagues to the westward of Cape St. John I observed the
+separation of the mountains that Captain Cook has taken notice of, which
+has the appearance of Staten Land being there divided into two islands.
+
+At sunset Cape St. John bore south-south-east five or six leagues. The
+land hereabouts is of less height and not so rugged as near New Year's
+Harbour. The night coming on I could get no good view of the coast near
+the Cape; and at daylight next morning we were at too great a distance.
+
+Monday 24.
+
+We had stood to the southward all night with the wind at west-south-west
+and south-west. At eight in the morning Cape St. John bore north-west ten
+leagues distant. Soon after we lost sight of the land.
+
+From the result of my lunar observations, assisted by the timekeeper, I
+make the longitude of the west side of Straits le Maire 64 degrees 48
+minutes west; the easternmost of the New Year's isles 63 degrees 52
+minutes west; and the longitude of Cape St. John 63 degrees 19 minutes
+west.
+
+In our run from the latitude of 12 degrees south to 48 degrees south the
+ship was set 2 degrees 30 minutes to the eastward by currents; and from
+the latitude of 48 degrees south to Staten Land the currents set us to
+the westward 2 degrees 43 minutes; which I imagine to have been
+occasioned by an indraught into the Straits of Magellan.
+
+From the time we lost sight of the land to the end of the month we were
+struggling with bad weather and contrary winds.
+
+Monday 31.
+
+But on the morning of the 31st the wind came to the north-north-east and
+made us entertain great hopes that we should be able to accomplish our
+passage round the Cape without much difficulty. At noon we were in
+latitude 60 degrees 1 minute south and in 71 degrees 45 minutes west
+longitude, which is 8 degrees 26 minutes west of the meridian of Cape St.
+John. This flattering appearance was not of long continuance: in the
+night the wind became variable and next day settled again in the west and
+north-west with very bad weather.
+
+April. Wednesday 2.
+
+On the 2nd in the morning the wind, which had blown fresh all night from
+the north-west, came round to the south-west and increased to a heavy
+gale. At six in the morning the storm exceeded what I had ever met with
+before; and the sea, from the frequent shifting of the wind, running in
+contrary directions, broke exceeding high. Our ship however lay to very
+well under a main and fore-stay sail. The gale continued with severe
+squalls of hail and sleet the remainder of this and all the next day.
+
+Friday 4.
+
+On the 4th the wind was less violent but far from moderate. With so much
+bad weather I found it necessary to keep a constant fire night and day;
+and one of the watch always attended to dry the people's wet clothes: and
+this I have no doubt contributed as much to their health as to their
+comfort.
+
+Our companions in this in hospitable region were albatrosses and two
+beautiful kinds of birds, the small blue petrel and pintada. A great many
+of these were frequently about the wake of the ship, which induced the
+people to float a line with hooks baited to endeavour to catch them and
+their attempts were successful. The method they used was to fasten the
+bait a foot or two before the hook and, by giving the line a sudden jerk
+when the bird was at the bait, it was hooked in the feet or body.
+
+Sunday 6.
+
+On the 6th the weather was moderate and continued so till the 9th with
+the wind veering between the north-west and south-west; of which we were
+able to take advantage.
+
+Monday 7.
+
+On the 7th observed the variation 27 degrees 9 minutes east; our latitude
+60 degrees 24 minutes south and longitude 75 degrees 54 minutes west.
+
+Wednesday 9.
+
+On the 9th at noon we were in latitude 59 degrees 31 minutes south and
+our longitude 76 degrees 58 minutes west, which is farther to the west
+than we had yet been. The weather was now unfavourable again, blowing
+strong from the westward with a high sea.
+
+On the 10th we saw some fish which appeared spotted and about the size of
+bonetos: these were the only fish we had seen in this high latitude.
+
+Saturday 12.
+
+The stormy weather continued with a great sea. The ship now began to
+complain and required to be pumped every hour; which was no more than we
+had reason to expect from such a continuance of gales of wind and high
+seas. The decks also became so leaky that it was obliged to allot the
+great cabin, of which I made little use except in fine weather, to those
+people who had wet berths to hang their hammocks in, and by this means
+the between decks was less crowded.
+
+Every morning all the hammocks were taken down from where they hung, and
+when the weather was too bad to keep them upon deck they were put in the
+cabin; so that the between decks were cleaned daily and aired with fires
+if the hatchways could not be opened. With all this bad weather we had
+the additional mortification to find at the end of every day that we were
+losing ground; for notwithstanding our utmost exertions and keeping on
+the most advantageous tacks (which if the weather had been at all
+moderate would have sufficiently answered our purpose) yet the greater
+part of the time we were doing little better than drifting before the
+wind.
+
+Sunday 13.
+
+Birds as usual were about the ship and some of them caught; and for the
+first time since we left Staten Land we saw some whales. This morning,
+owing to the violent motion of the ship, the cook fell and broke one of
+his ribs, and another man, by a fall, dislocated his shoulder. The gunner
+who had the charge of a watch was laid up with the rheumatism: and this
+was the first sicklist that appeared on board the ship. The time of full
+moon which was approaching made me entertain hopes that after that period
+we should experience some change of wind or weather in our favour; but
+the event did not at all answer our expectations. The latitude at noon
+this day was 58 degrees 9 minutes south and longitude 76 degrees 1 minute
+west.
+
+As we caught a good many birds but which were all lean and tasted fishy
+we tried an experiment upon them which succeeded admirably. By keeping
+them cooped up and cramming them with ground corn they improved
+wonderfully in a short time; so that the pintada birds became as fine as
+ducks, and the albatrosses were as fat, and not inferior in taste to,
+fine geese. Some of the latter birds were caught that measured seven feet
+between the extremities of the wings when spread. This unexpected supply
+came very opportunely; for none of our livestock remained except hogs,
+the sheep and poultry not being hardy enough to stand the severity of the
+weather.
+
+Sunday 20.
+
+This morning the wind died away and we had a calm for a few hours which
+gave us hopes that the next would be a more favourable wind. A hog was
+killed for the ship's company which gave them an excellent meal. Towards
+noon, to our great disappointment, the wind sprang up again from the
+westward and in the afternoon blew strong with snow and hailstorms.
+
+Monday 21.
+
+This was the second day after the full moon but, as I have remarked
+before, it had no influence on the weather. At noon our latitude was 58
+degrees 31 minutes south and longitude 70 degrees 7 minutes west, which
+is near seven degrees to the eastward of our situation on the morning of
+the 9th instant, when we had advanced the farthest in our power to the
+westward, being then in 76 degrees 58 minutes west, three degrees to the
+west of Cape Deseada, the west part of the Straits of Magellan; and at
+this time we were 3 degrees 52 minutes to the east of it and hourly
+losing ground.
+
+It was with much concern I saw how hopeless and even unjustifiable it was
+to persist any longer in attempting a passage this way to the Society
+Islands. We had been thirty days in this tempestuous ocean. At one time
+we had advanced so far to the westward as to have a fair prospect of
+making our passage round; but from that period hard gales of westerly
+wind had continued without intermission, a few hours excepted, which, to
+borrow an expression in Lord Anson's voyage, were "like the elements
+drawing breath to return upon us with redoubled violence." The season was
+now too far advanced for us to expect more favourable winds or weather,
+and we had sufficiently experienced the impossibility of beating round
+against the wind, or of advancing at all without the help of a fair wind
+for which there was little reason to hope. Another consideration which
+had great weight with me was that, if I persisted in my attempt this way
+and should after all fail to get round, it would occasion such a loss of
+time that our arrival at Otaheite soon enough to return in the proper
+season by the East Indies would be rendered precarious. On the other hand
+the prevalence of the westerly winds in high southern latitudes left me
+no reason to doubt of making a quick passage to the Cape of Good Hope and
+thence to the eastward round New Holland.
+
+Tuesday 22.
+
+Having maturely considered all circumstances I determined to bear away
+for the Cape of Good Hope; and at five o'clock on the evening of the
+22nd, the wind then blowing strong at west, I ordered the helm to be put
+a weather, to the great joy of every person on board. Our sicklist at
+this time had increased to eight, mostly with rheumatic complaints: in
+other respects the people were in good health, though exceedingly jaded.
+
+The passage round Cape Horn into the South Seas during the summer months
+has seldom been attended with difficulty and is to be preferred in the
+moderate seasons to the more distant route to the eastward round the Cape
+of Good Hope and New Holland. If we had been one month earlier, or
+perhaps less, I doubt not but we should have effected our passage.
+
+The soundings that are met with off the coast of America, from the
+latitude of 36 degrees south to the southward, are very convenient to
+enable ships to judge of their distance from the land, as thick fogs are
+very frequent near that coast. If the winds are favourable, to go through
+Straits le Maire must considerably shorten the passage round Cape Horn,
+as all the distance saved is so much gained to the westward. I am
+informed that several harbours have been lately discovered by the South
+Sea whalers on the north side of Staten Island that afford safe anchorage
+with supplies of wood and water.
+
+While we were off Cape Horn I did not observe that our situation was at
+all affected by currents.
+
+
+CHAPTER 3.
+
+Passage towards the Cape of Good Hope and Search after Tristan da Cunha.
+Arrival at False Bay.
+Occurrences there.
+Reports concerning the Grosvenor's People.
+Departure from the Cape.
+
+1788. April. Friday 25.
+
+The westerly winds and stormy weather continuing gave me no reason to
+repent of my determination. On the 25th at noon we were in latitude 54
+degrees 16 minutes south and longitude 57 degrees 4 minutes west. The
+nearest of the Falkland Islands by my reckoning then bore north 13
+degrees west; distance 23 leagues. Our stock of water being sufficient to
+serve us to the Cape of Good Hope I did not think it worth while to stop
+at these islands as the refreshment we might obtain there would scarce
+repay us for the expense of time: we therefore continued our course
+towards the north-east and east-north-east.
+
+May. Friday 9.
+
+On the 9th of May at eight o'clock in the evening we were near the
+situation of Tristan da Cunha, our latitude being 37 degrees 7 minutes
+south and longitude 15 degrees 26 minutes west. All the afternoon the
+weather had been clear enough for land of a moderate height to be seen at
+least seven leagues; I therefore concluded that we had not yet passed the
+meridian of the island; for the most western position given to it from
+any authority is 15 degrees 0 minutes west.
+
+As I wished to make this island we kept our wind on different tacks
+during the night, that we might be nearly in the same place at daylight
+in the morning as on the preceding evening: in the morning no land being
+in sight we continued to steer to the eastward.
+
+Saturday 10.
+
+We ran on all day having clear weather but without seeing anything to
+indicate our being near land. At noon our latitude observed was 37
+degrees 27 minutes south which, being more to the southward than we had
+reason to expect, I altered the course to the northward and steered
+north-east all the afternoon. At six o'clock in the evening we were in
+latitude 37 degrees 0 minutes south and longitude 12 degrees 42 minutes
+west, having a clear horizon but not the least sign of being in the
+neighbourhood of land. With the night came thick rainy weather and we
+were now to the eastward of the situation ascribed to Tristan da Cunha; I
+therefore determined to give over the search and to resume our course
+towards the Cape of Good Hope.
+
+The island of Tristan da Cunha, by Robertson's Elements, is laid down in
+37 degrees 12 minutes south latitude and 13 degrees 23 minutes west
+longitude. In Captain Cook's general map, prefixed to his last voyage, it
+is placed in the same latitude but in 15 degrees west longitude. From our
+track and the clearness of the weather I am convinced, if the latitude
+ascribed to it as above is correct, that it is not to be found between
+the meridians of 16 degrees 30 minutes west and 12 degrees 30 minutes
+west. On the 13th I had a number of lunar observations for the longitude,
+the mean of which agreed exactly with the timekeeper.*
+
+(*Footnote. In Mr. Dalrymple's Collection of Plans which I had not with
+me the northernmost of the Islands of Tristan d'Acunha is placed in
+latitude 37 degrees 22 minutes south and longitude 13 degrees 17 minutes
+west. I think it probable we missed them by being too much to the
+northward.)
+
+In this passage the weather was generally so cloudy that I had few
+opportunities to make observations of any kind except for the noon
+latitudes. I could not determine when we crossed the line of no
+variation. The two nearest observations to it were: the first in 39
+degrees 51 minutes south latitude and 26 degrees 11 minutes west
+longitude, where the variation of the compass was found to be 3 degrees
+17 minutes east; and the other in latitude 35 degrees 30 minutes south
+and longitude 5 degrees 21 minutes west, where I observed the variation
+11 degrees 35 minutes west; between these we had no intermediate
+observation for the variation.
+
+Thursday 22.
+
+At two in the afternoon we saw the Table Mountain of the Cape of Good
+Hope. As it is reckoned unsafe riding in Table Bay at this time of year I
+steered for False Bay. The next evening we anchored in the outer part.
+
+Saturday 24.
+
+And on the forenoon of the 24th got the ship secured in Simon's Bay,
+which is in the inner part of False Bay. When moored, Noah's ark bore
+south 35 degrees east three-quarters of a mile, and the hospital south 72
+west. We found lying here one outward bound Dutch Indiaman, five other
+Dutch ships, and a French ship.
+
+After saluting the fort, which was returned by an equal number of guns, I
+went on shore and dispatches were sent away to Cape Town to acquaint the
+governor of our arrival. A Dutch ship at this time lying in Table Bay
+bound for Europe, I sent letters by her to the Admiralty. It is very
+unusual for ships to be in Table Bay so late in the year, on account of
+the strong north-west winds. April is the time limited.
+
+I gave the necessary directions for getting our wants supplied. The ship
+required to be caulked in every part for she was become so leaky that we
+had been obliged to pump every hour in our passage from Cape Horn. This
+we immediately set about, as well as repairing our sails and rigging. The
+severe weather we had met with and the leakiness of the ship made it
+necessary to examine into the state of all the stores and provisions. Of
+the latter a good deal was found damaged, particularly the bread. The
+timekeeper I took on shore to ascertain its rate, and other instruments
+to make the necessary astronomical observations. Fresh meat, with soft
+bread and plenty of vegetables, were issued daily to the ship's company
+the whole time we remained here. A few days after our arrival I went over
+to Cape Town and waited on his excellency M. Vander Graaf, the governor,
+who obligingly arranged matters so much to our advantage that we scarcely
+felt the inconvenience of being at a distance from the Cape Town, whence
+we received all our supplies.
+
+The Cape Town is considerably increased within the last eight years. Its
+respectability with regard to strength has kept pace with its other
+enlargements and rendered it very secure against any attempt which is not
+made with considerable force. Great attention is paid to military order
+and discipline; and monthly signals are established to communicate with
+their shipping as they arrive near the coast that they may not run
+unawares into the hands of an enemy. I found everything much dearer than
+when I was here in 1780. Sheep cost four Spanish dollars each and were so
+small that it answered better to purchase the mutton for the ship's daily
+use at fourpence per pound.
+
+During our stay here I took care to procure seeds and plants that would
+be valuable at Otaheite and the different places we might touch at in our
+way thither. In this I was greatly assisted by colonel Gordon, the
+commander of the troops. In company with this gentleman the loss of the
+Grosvenor East Indiaman was mentioned: on this subject colonel Gordon
+expressed great concern that from anything he had said hopes were still
+entertained to flatter the affectionate wishes of the surviving friends
+of those unfortunate people. He said that in his travels into the Caffre
+country he had met with a native who described to him that there was a
+white woman among his countrymen who had a child, and that she frequently
+embraced the child and cried most violently. This was all he (the
+colonel) could understand and, being then on his return home with his
+health much impaired by fatigue, the only thing that he could do was to
+make a friend of the native by presents and promises of reward on
+condition that he would take a letter to this woman and bring him back an
+answer. Accordingly he wrote letters in English, French, and Dutch
+desiring that some sign or mark might be returned, either by writing with
+a burnt stick or by any means she should be able to devise, to satisfy
+him that she was there; and that on receiving such token from her every
+effort should be made to ensure her safety and escape. But the Caffre,
+although apparently delighted with the commission which he had
+undertaken, never returned, nor has the colonel ever heard anything more
+of him, though he had been instructed in methods of conveying information
+through the Hottentot country.
+
+To this account, that I may not again have occasion to introduce so
+melancholy a subject, I shall add the little information I received
+respecting it when I revisited the Cape in my return towards Europe. A
+reputable farmer of the name of Holhousen, who lives at Swellendam, eight
+days journey from the Cape, had information from some Caffre Hottentots
+that at a kraal or village in their country there were white men and
+women. On this intelligence Mr. Holhousen asked permission of the
+governor to make an expedition with some of the farmers into the country,
+requiring a thousand rix-dollars to bear his expenses. The governor
+referred him to Mr. Wocke, the Landros of Graaf Rienet, a new colony in
+his way. But from the place where Mr. Holhousen lives to the Landros, Mr.
+Wocke's residence, is a month's journey, which he did not choose to
+undertake at an uncertainty, as Mr. Wocke might have disapproved of the
+enterprise. It was in October last that Mr. Holhousen offered to go on
+this service. He was one of the party who went along the sea-coast in
+search of these unfortunate people when a few of them first made their
+appearance at the Cape. I am however informed that the Dutch farmers are
+fond of making expeditions into the country, that they may have
+opportunities of taking away cattle; and this I apprehend to be one of
+the chief reasons why undertakings of this kind are not encouraged.
+
+On the 13th of June the Dublin East Indiaman arrived from England, on
+board of which ship was a party of the 77th regiment under the command of
+colonel Balfour.
+
+The result of my lunar observations gave for the longitude of Simon's Bay
+18 degrees 48 minutes 34 seconds east; the latitude 34 degrees 11 minutes
+34 seconds south. The timekeeper likewise made the longitude 18 degrees
+47 minutes east. The longitude as established by former observations is
+18 degrees 33 minutes east. The variation of the compass on shore was 24
+degrees 4 minutes west; but on board of the ship it was only 22 degrees
+28 minutes west. The time of high-water was three-quarters past two on
+the full and change and it then flowed six feet.
+
+With respect to the Cape Promontory it lies about three miles east of the
+meridian of Simon's Town. All the tables of latitude and longitude place
+the Cape in 34 degrees 29 minutes south latitude; but from many
+observations off it with good instruments I make it to lie in 34 degrees
+23 minutes south, which agrees with its situation as laid down in major
+Rennel's map. The part which I call the Cape is the southernmost point of
+the land between Table Bay and False Bay; but the Dutch consider the
+westernmost part of the coast to be the Cape.
+
+Sunday 29.
+
+On the 29th, being ready for sea, I took the timekeeper and instruments
+on board. The error of the timekeeper was 3 minutes 33 seconds, 2 too slow for
+the mean time at Greenwich, and its rate of going 3 seconds per day,
+losing. The thermometer during our stay here was from 51 to 66 degrees.
+
+July. Tuesday 1.
+
+We had been thirty-eight days at this place, and my people had received
+all the advantage that could be derived from the refreshments of every
+kind that are here to be met with. We sailed at four o'clock this
+afternoon, and saluted the platform with thirteen guns as we ran out of
+the bay, which were returned.
+
+
+CHAPTER 4.
+
+Passage towards Van Diemen's Land.
+Make the Island of St. Paul.
+Arrival in Adventure Bay.
+Natives seen.
+Sail from Van Diemen's Land.
+
+1788. July.
+
+We lost sight of the land the day after leaving False Bay and steered
+towards the east-south-east, having variable winds the first week with
+much thunder, lightning and rain. The remainder of this passage the winds
+were mostly between the south and west blowing strong. There were almost
+every day great numbers of pintada, albatrosses, blue petrels, and other
+oceanic birds about us; but it was observed that if the wind came from
+the northward, only for a few hours, the birds generally left us, and
+their presence again was the forerunner of a southerly wind.
+
+Sunday 13.
+
+The variation of the compass was 30 degrees 34 minutes west which was the
+greatest variation we found in this track. Our latitude 36 degrees 28
+minutes south and longitude 39 degrees 0 minutes east.
+
+Sunday 20.
+
+The latitude at noon was 40 degrees 30 minutes south and longitude 60
+degrees 7 minutes east. We were at this time scudding under the fore-sail
+and close-reefed main-top-sail, the wind blowing strong from the west. An
+hour after noon the gale increased and blew with so much violence that
+the ship was almost driven forecastle under before we could get the sails
+clewed up. As soon as the sails were taken in we brought the ship to the
+wind, lowered the lower yards, and got the top-gallant-masts upon deck,
+which eased the ship very much.
+
+Monday 21.
+
+We remained lying to till eight the next morning when we bore away under
+a reefed fore-sail. In the afternoon the sea ran so high that it became
+very unsafe to stand on: we therefore brought to the wind again, and
+remained lying to all night without accident excepting that the man at
+the steerage was thrown over the wheel and much bruised.
+
+Tuesday 22.
+
+Towards noon the violence of the storm abated and we again bore away
+under the reefed fore-sail. Our latitude at noon 38 degrees 49 minutes
+south: in the afternoon saw some whales.
+
+We continued running to the eastward in this parallel, it being my
+intention to make the island St. Paul.
+
+Monday 28.
+
+On Monday the 28th at six in the morning we saw the island bearing east
+by north 12 leagues distant: between 10 and 11 o'clock we ran along the
+south side at about a league distant from the shore. There was a verdure
+that covered the higher parts of the land, but I believe it was nothing
+more than moss which is commonly found on the tops of most rocky islands
+in these latitudes. We saw several whales near the shore. The extent of
+this island is five miles from east to west; and about two or three from
+north to south. As we passed the east end we saw a remarkable high
+sugarloaf rock, abreast of which I have been informed is good anchorage
+in 23 fathoms, the east point bearing south-west by south by true
+compass. I had this information from the captain of a Dutch packet in
+which I returned to Europe. He likewise said there was good fresh water
+on the island and a hot spring which boiled fish in as great perfection
+as on a fire. By his account the latitude which he observed in the road
+is 38 degrees 39 minutes south; and from the anchoring place the island
+of Amsterdam was in sight to the northward. We had fair weather all the
+forenoon, but just at noon a squall came on which was unfavourable for
+our observation. I had however two sets of double altitudes and a good
+altitude exactly at noon according to the timekeeper. The result of these
+gave for the latitude of the centre of St. Paul 38 degrees 47 minutes
+south. The longitude I make 77 degrees 39 minutes east. The variation of
+the compass, taking the mean of what it was observed to be the day before
+we saw the island and the day after, is 19 degrees 30 minutes west.
+
+At noon we were three leagues past the island. We kept on towards the
+east-south-east, and for several days continued to see rock-weed, which
+is remarked to be generally the case after ships pass St. Paul's; but to
+the westward of it very seldom any is seen.
+
+August. Wednesday 13.
+
+In latitude 44 degrees 16 minutes south, longitude 122 degrees 7 minutes
+east, I observed the variation of the compass to be 6 degrees 23 minutes
+west. I had no opportunity to observe it again till in the latitude of 43
+degrees 56 minutes south, longitude 133 degrees 16 minutes east, when it
+was 1 degree 38 minutes east; so that we had passed the line of no
+variation. In 1780, on board the Resolution in latitude 44 degrees 23
+minutes south, longitude 131 degrees 28 minutes east, the variation was
+observed 6 degrees 0 minutes west, which is a remarkable difference. We
+had much bad weather with snow and hail, and in our approach to Van
+Diemen's Land nothing was seen to indicate the nearness of the coast,
+except a seal, when we were within the distance of 20 leagues.
+
+Tuesday 19.
+
+At ten o'clock this afternoon we saw the rock named the Mewstone, that
+lies near the south-west cape of Van Diemen's Land, bearing north-east
+about six leagues. The wind blew strong from the north-west. As soon as
+we had passed the Mewstone we were sheltered from a very heavy sea which
+ran from the westward. At eight o'clock at night we were abreast of the
+south cape when the wind became light and variable. Saw several fires
+inland.
+
+The Mewstone is a high bold rock that lies five leagues to the south-east
+of the south-west cape and is the part that all ships bound this way
+should endeavour to make. Its latitude is 43 degrees 46 or 47 minutes.
+Several islands lie to the northward between that and the main, among
+which, bearing north by west from the Mewstone, is a high rock much
+resembling it; and north-north-east from the Mewstone, on the mainland,
+is a remarkable high mountain, which in this direction appears notched
+like a cock's comb; but as viewed from the eastward seems round.
+
+Wednesday 20.
+
+All the 20th we were endeavouring to get into Adventure Bay but were
+prevented by variable winds. The next morning at five o'clock we anchored
+in the outer part, and at sunrise weighed again: at noon we anchored well
+in the bay and moored the ship, Penguin Island bearing north 57 1/2
+degrees east, about two miles distant; Cape Frederic Henry north 23
+degrees east; and the mouth of the Lagoon south 16 degrees east.
+
+In our passage from the Cape of Good Hope the winds were mostly from the
+westward with very boisterous weather: but one great advantage that this
+season of the year has over the summer months is in being free from fogs.
+I have already remarked that the approach of strong southerly winds is
+announced by many kinds of birds of the albatross or petrel tribe, and
+the abatement of the gale, or a shift of wind to the northward, by their
+keeping away. The thermometer also very quickly shows when a change of
+these winds may be expected by varying sometimes six and seven degrees in
+its height. I have reason to believe that, after we passed the island St.
+Paul, there was a westerly current; the ship being every day to the
+westward of the reckoning, which in the whole, from St. Paul to Van
+Diemen's land, made a difference of four degrees between the longitude by
+the reckoning and the true longitude.
+
+Thursday 21.
+
+The ship being moored I went in a boat to look out for the most
+convenient place to wood and water at, which I found to be at the west
+end of the beach: for the surf, though considerable, was less there than
+at any other part of the bay. The water was in a gully about sixty yards
+from the beach; it was perfectly good but, being only a collection from
+the rains, the place is always dry in the summer months; for we found no
+water in it when I was here with Captain Cook in January 1777. We had
+very little success in hauling the seine; about twenty small flounders,
+and flat-headed fish called foxes were all that were taken.
+
+I found no signs of the natives having lately frequented this bay or of
+any European vessels having been here since the Resolution and Discovery
+in 1777. From some of the old trunks of trees then cut down I saw shoots
+about twenty-five feet high and fourteen inches in circumference.
+
+In the evening I returned on board.
+
+Friday 22.
+
+The next morning, the 22nd, at daylight, a party was sent on shore for
+wooding and watering under the command of Mr. Christian and the gunner;
+and I directed that one man should be constantly employed in washing the
+people's clothes. There was so much surf that the wood was obliged to be
+rafted off in bundles to the boat. Mr. Nelson informed me that in his
+walks today he saw a tree in a very healthy state which he measured and
+found to be thirty-three feet and a half in girt; its height was
+proportioned to its bulk.
+
+Saturday 23.
+
+The surf was rather greater than yesterday which very much interrupted
+our wooding and watering. Nelson today picked up a male opossum that had
+been recently killed, or had died, for we could not perceive any wound
+unless it had received a blow on the back where there was a bare place
+about the size of a shilling. It measured fourteen inches from the ears
+to the beginning of the tail which was exactly the same length.
+
+Most of the forest trees were at this time shedding their bark. There are
+three kinds, which are distinguished from each other by their leaves,
+though the wood appears to be the same. Many of them are full one hundred
+and fifty feet high; but most of those that we cut down were decayed at
+the heart. There are, besides the forest trees, several other kinds that
+are firm good wood and may be cut for most purposes except masts; neither
+are the forest trees good for masts, on account of their weight, and the
+difficulty of finding them thoroughly sound. Mr. Nelson asserted that
+they shed their bark every year, and that they increase more from the
+seed than by suckers.
+
+I found the tide made a difference of full two feet in the height of the
+water in the lake at the back of the beach. At high water it was very
+brackish, but at low tide it was perfectly fresh to the taste, and soap
+showed no sign of its being the least impregnated. We had better success
+in fishing on board the ship than by hauling the seine on shore; for with
+hooks and lines a number of fine rock-cod were caught. I saw today
+several eagles, some beautiful blue-plumaged herons, and a great variety
+of parakeets. A few oyster-catchers and gulls were generally about the
+beach, and in the lake a few wild ducks.
+
+Monday 25.
+
+Being in want of plank I directed a saw-pit to be dug and employed some
+of the people to saw trees into plank. The greater part of this week the
+winds were moderate with unsettled weather.
+
+Friday 29.
+
+On Friday it blew strong from the south-west with rain, thunder, and
+lightning. We continued to catch fish in sufficient quantities for
+everybody and had better success with the seine. We were fortunate also
+in angling in the lake where we caught some very fine tench. Some of the
+people felt a sickness from eating mussels that were gathered from the
+rocks; but I believe it was occasioned by eating too many. We found some
+spider-crabs, most of them not good, being the female sort and out of
+season. The males were tolerably good and were known by the smallness of
+their two fore-claws or feeders. We saw the trunk of a dead tree on which
+had been cut A.D. 1773. The figures were very distinct; even the slips
+made with the knife were discernible. This must have been done by some of
+captain Furneaux's people in March 1773, fifteen years before. The marks
+of the knife remaining so unaltered, I imagine the tree must have been
+dead when it was cut; but it serves to show the durability of the wood
+for it was perfectly sound at this time. I shot two gannets: these birds
+were of the same size as those in England; their colour is a beautiful
+white, with the wings and tail tipped with jet black and the top and back
+of the head of a very fine yellow. Their feet were black with four claws,
+on each of which was a yellow line the whole length of the foot. The bill
+was four inches long, without nostrils, and very taper and sharp-pointed.
+
+The east side of the bay being not so thick of wood as the other parts,
+and the soil being good, I fixed on it, at Nelson's recommendation, as
+the most proper situation for planting some of the fruit-trees which I
+had brought from the Cape of Good Hope. A circumstance much against
+anything succeeding here is that in the dry season the fires made by the
+natives are apt to communicate to the dried grass and underwood, and to
+spread in such a manner as to endanger everything that cannot bear a
+severe scorching. We however chose what we thought the safest situations,
+and planted three fine young apple-trees, nine vines, six plantain-trees,
+a number of orange and lemon-seed, cherry-stones, plum, peach, and
+apricot-stones, pumpkins, also two sorts of Indian corn, and apple and
+pear kernels. The ground is well adapted for the trees, being of a rich
+loamy nature. The spot where we made our plantation was clear of
+underwood; and we marked the trees that stood nearest to the different
+things which were planted. Nelson followed the circuit of the bay,
+planting in such places as appeared most eligible. I have great hopes
+that some of these articles will succeed. The particular situations I had
+described in my survey of this place, but I was unfortunately prevented
+from bringing it home. Near the watering place likewise we planted on a
+flat, which appeared a favourable situation, some onions, cabbage-roots,
+and potatoes.
+
+For some days past a number of whales were seen in the bay. They were of
+the same kind as those we had generally met with before, having two
+blow-holes on the back of the head.
+
+September. Monday 1.
+
+On the night of the 1st of September we observed for the first time signs
+of the natives being in the neighbourhood. Fires were seen on the low
+land near Cape Frederick Henry, and at daylight we saw the natives with
+our glasses. As I expected they would come round to us I remained all the
+forenoon near the wooding and watering parties, making observations, the
+morning being very favourable for that purpose. I was however
+disappointed in my conjecture for the natives did not appear, and there
+was too great a surf for a boat to land on the part where we had seen
+them.
+
+Tuesday 2.
+
+The natives not coming near us, I determined to go after them, and we set
+out in a boat towards Cape Frederick Henry, where we arrived about eleven
+o'clock. I found landing impracticable and therefore came to a grapnel,
+in hopes of their coming to us, for we had passed several fires. After
+waiting near an hour I was surprised to see Nelson's assistant come out
+of the wood: he had wandered thus far in search of plants and told me
+that he had met with some of the natives. Soon after we heard their
+voices like the cackling of geese, and twenty persons came out of the
+wood, twelve of whom went round to some rocks where the boat could get
+nearer to the shore than we then were. Those who remained behind were
+women.
+
+We approached within twenty yards of them, but there was no possibility
+of landing and I could only throw to the shore, tied up in paper, the
+presents which I intended for them. I showed the different articles as I
+tied them up, but they would not untie the paper till I made an
+appearance of leaving them. They then opened the parcels and, as they
+took the articles out, placed them on their heads. On seeing this I
+returned towards them when they instantly put everything out of their
+hands and would not appear to take notice of anything that we had given
+them. After throwing a few more beads and nails on shore I made signs for
+them to go to the ship, and they likewise made signs for me to land, but
+as this could not be effected I left them, in hopes of a nearer interview
+at the watering-place.
+
+When they first came in sight they made a prodigious clattering in their
+speech and held their arms over their heads. They spoke so quick that I
+could not catch one single word they uttered. We recollected one man whom
+we had formerly seen among the party of the natives that came to us in
+1777, and who is particularised in the account of Captain Cook's last
+voyage for his humour and deformity. Some of them had a small stick, two
+or three feet long, in their hands, but no other weapon.
+
+Their colour, as Captain Cook remarks, is a dull black: their skin is
+scarified about their shoulders and breast. They were of a middle
+stature, or rather below it. One of them was distinguished by his body
+being coloured with red ochre, but all the others were painted black with
+a kind of soot which was laid on so thick over their faces and shoulders
+that it is difficult to say what they were like.
+
+They ran very nimbly over the rocks, had a very quick sight, and caught
+the small beads and nails which I threw to them with great dexterity.
+They talked to us sitting on their heels with their knees close into
+their armpits and were perfectly naked.
+
+In my return towards the ship I landed at the point of the harbour near
+Penguin Island, and from the hills saw the water on the other side of the
+low isthmus of Cape Frederick Henry, which forms the bay of that name. It
+is very extensive and in, or near, the middle of the bay there is a low
+island. From this spot it has the appearance of being a very good and
+convenient harbour.
+
+The account which I had from Brown, the botanist's assistant, was that in
+his search for plants he had met an old man, a young woman, and two or
+three children. The old man at first appeared alarmed, but became
+familiar on being presented with a knife. He nevertheless sent away the
+young woman who went very reluctantly. He saw some miserable wigwams, in
+which were nothing but a few kangaroo skins spread on the ground, and a
+basket made of rushes.
+
+Among the wood that we cut here we found many scorpions and centipedes,
+with numerous black ants that were an inch long. We saw no mosquitoes,
+though in the summer months they are very troublesome.
+
+What is called the New Zealand tea plant grew here in great abundance; so
+that it was not only gathered and dried to use as tea but made excellent
+brooms. It bears a small pointed leaf of a pleasant smell, and its seed
+is contained in a berry, about the size of a pea, notched into five equal
+parts on the top. The soil on the west and south sides of the bay is
+black mould with a mixture of fine white sand and is very rich. The trees
+are lofty and large, and the underwood grows so close together that in
+many places it is impassable. The east side of the bay is a rich loamy
+soil; but near the tops of the hills is very much encumbered with stones
+and rocks: the underwood thinly placed and small. The trees on the south,
+south-east, and south-west sides of the hills grow to a larger size than
+those that are exposed to the opposite points; for the sides of the trees
+open or exposed to the north winds are naked with few branches; while the
+other sides are in a flourishing state. From this I do not infer that the
+equatorial are more hurtful than the polar winds; but that the trees by
+their situation were more sheltered from the one for from the other.
+
+Wednesday 3.
+
+A calm prevented our sailing today. The friendly interview which we had
+had with the natives made me expect that they would have paid us a visit;
+but we saw nothing more of them except fires in the night upon the low
+land to the northward.
+
+The result of the observations which I made here, reduced to Penguin
+Island, place it in 43 degrees 21 minutes 11 seconds south latitude and
+in longitude 147 degrees 33 minutes 29 seconds east, which scarcely
+differs from the observations made in 1777. The variation of the compass
+observed on shore was 8 degrees 38 minutes east; and on board the ship 8
+degrees 29 minutes east. It was high-water at the change of the moon at
+49 minutes past six in the morning. The rise was two feet eight inches.
+Southerly winds, if of any continuance, make a considerable difference in
+the height of the tides.
+
+Thursday 4.
+
+This forenoon, having a pleasant breeze at north-west, we weighed anchor
+and sailed out of Adventure Bay. At noon the southernmost part of Maria's
+Isles bore north 52 degrees east, about five leagues distant; Penguin
+Island south 86 degrees west; and Cape Frederick Henry north 65 degrees
+west. In this position we had soundings at 57 fathoms, a sandy bottom.
+Latitude observed 43 degrees 22 minutes south.
+
+The southern part of Maria's Islands lie in latitude 43 degrees 16
+minutes south. The country is not in general woody, but in some of the
+interior parts there appeared great abundance. Among these islands I have
+no doubt of there being many convenient places for shipping. On the east
+side in latitude 42 degrees 42 minutes south and longitude 148 degrees 24
+minutes east in July, 1789, Captain Cox of the Mercury found a convenient
+and secure harbour from all winds which he named Oyster Bay. Here he
+found wood, water, and fish in great abundance. It has two outlets and
+lies north, a little easterly, distant 34 miles from the
+south-easternmost island, or point, seen from Adventure Bay.
+
+Adventure Bay is a convenient and safe place for any number of ships to
+take in wood and water during the summer months: but in the winter, when
+the southerly winds are strong, the surf, on all parts of the shore,
+makes the landing exceedingly troublesome. The bay of Frederick Henry may
+perhaps be found preferable, as it appears to be equally easy of access.
+The soundings in Adventure Bay are very regular: near the west shore are
+some patches of weed but no shoal or danger, the depth on them being from
+five to nine fathoms.
+
+CHAPTER 5.
+
+Rocky Islands discovered.
+See the Island Maitea and arrive at Otaheite.
+Ship crowded by the Natives.
+
+1788. September.
+
+Being clear of the land we steered towards the east-south-east, it being
+my intention to pass to the southward of New Zealand, as I expected in
+that route to meet with constant westerly winds; in which however I was
+disappointed, for they proved variable and frequently from the eastward
+blowing strong, with thick misty weather. The thermometer varied from 41
+to 46 degrees.
+
+Sunday 14.
+
+On the 14th at noon we were in 49 degrees 24 minutes south latitude and
+in 168 degrees 3 minutes east longitude, which is on the same meridian
+with the south end of New Zealand. We altered our course, steering to the
+northward of east, and frequently saw rock-weed which I supposed to have
+drifted from New Zealand. The sea now became rougher from our being
+exposed to a long swell which came from the north-east.
+
+Friday 19.
+
+On the 19th at daylight we discovered a cluster of small rocky islands
+bearing east by north four leagues distant from us. We had seen no birds
+or anything to indicate the nearness of land except patches of rock-weed,
+for which the vicinity of New Zealand sufficiently accounted. The wind
+being at north-east prevented our near approach to these isles; so that
+we were not less than three leagues distant in passing to the southward
+of them. The weather was too thick to see distinctly: their extent was
+only 3 1/2 miles from east to west and about half a league from north to
+south: their number including the smaller ones was thirteen. I could not
+observe any verdure on any of them: there were white spots like patches
+of snow but, as Captain Cook, in describing the land of New Zealand, near
+Cape South, says, in many places there are patches like white marble, it
+is probable that what we saw might be of the same kind as what he had
+observed. The westernmost of these islands is the largest; they are of
+sufficient height to be seen at the distance of seven leagues from a
+ship's deck. When the easternmost bore north I tried for soundings, being
+then 10 miles distant from the nearest of them, and found bottom at 75
+fathoms, a fine white sand: and again at noon, having run six leagues
+more to the east-south-east, we had soundings at 104 fathoms, a fine
+brimstone-coloured sand. The latitude of these islands is 47 degrees 44
+minutes south; their longitude 179 degrees 7 minutes east, which is about
+145 leagues to the east of the Traps, near the south end of New Zealand.
+Variation of the compass here 17 degrees east. While in sight of the
+islands we saw some penguins, and a white kind of gull with a forked
+tail. Captain Cook's track in 1773 was near this spot, but he did not see
+the islands: he saw seals and penguins hereabouts, but considered New
+Zealand to be the nearest land. I have named them after the ship the
+Bounty Isles.
+
+Sunday 21.
+
+This day we saw a seal, some rock-weed, and a great many albatrosses. I
+tried for soundings but found no bottom at 230 fathoms depth. Our
+latitude 47 degrees 32 minutes south, longitude 182 degrees 36 minutes
+east.
+
+October. Thursday 2.
+
+Were in 40 degrees 27 minutes south latitude and 214 degrees 4 minutes
+east longitude. It being calm, and a number of small blubbers about the
+ship, I took up some in a bucket, but I saw no difference between them
+and the common blubbers in the West Indies. We frequently in the
+night-time observed the sea to be covered with luminous spots caused by
+prodigious quantities of small blubbers that, from the strings which
+extend from them, emit a light like the blaze of a candle, while the body
+continues perfectly dark.
+
+Friday 3.
+
+The 3rd in the morning we saw a seal. Captain Cook has remarked seeing
+seaweed when nearly in the same place. Our latitude 40 degrees 21 minutes
+south, longitude 215 degrees east. Variation of the compass 7 degrees 45
+minutes east. Being now well to the eastward of the Society Islands I
+steered more to the northward.
+
+We continued to have the southern oceanic birds accompany us and a few
+whales. The people caught albatrosses and fattened them in the same
+manner which they had done when off Cape Horn. Some of these measured
+near eight feet between the tips of the wings when spread.
+
+Thursday 9.
+
+On Thursday the 9th we had the misfortune to lose one of our seamen,
+James Valentine, who died in the night of an asthmatic complaint. This
+poor man had been one of the most robust people on board until our
+arrival at Adventure Bay, where he first complained of some slight
+indisposition for which he was bled, and got better. Some time afterwards
+the arm in which he had been bled became painful and inflamed: the
+inflammation increased, with a hollow cough, and extreme difficulty of
+breathing, to his death.
+
+Monday 13.
+
+The 13th in the afternoon we saw two land birds like what are called
+sand-larks. Our latitude at this time was 28 degrees 3 minutes south and
+longitude 223 degrees 26 minutes east.
+
+Tuesday 14.
+
+The next morning we saw a tropic bird and some fish. The winds were light
+and variable with calms from this time to the 19th, when a breeze sprang
+up from the north-east, which gradually came round to the eastward and
+proved to be the tradewind. Our latitude on the 19th at noon was 24
+degrees 13 minutes south, longitude 222 degrees 17 minutes east.
+Variation of the compass 5 degrees 19 minutes east.
+
+Saturday 25.
+
+On the 25th at half-past seven in the morning we saw the Island Maitea,
+called Osnaburg by Captain Wallis, who first discovered it. At noon it
+bore south-west by west one-quarter west, six miles distant. Our latitude
+17 degrees 50 minutes south, longitude 212 degrees 24 minutes east.
+Variation five degrees east. As Captain Wallis and Captain Cook had both
+passed near the south side, I ran along the north side, which is
+remarkably steep. The island is high and round and not more than three
+miles in its greatest extent. The south side, where the declivity from
+the hill is more gradual, is the chief place of residence of the natives;
+but the north side, from the very summit down to the sea, is so steep
+that it can afford no support to the inhabitants. We steered pretty close
+in to the northward of the east end, where we saw but few habitations: a
+very neat house on a small eminence, delightfully situated in a grove of
+coconut-trees, particularly attracted our notice. About twenty of the
+natives followed us along shore, waving and showing large pieces of
+cloth; but the surf on the shore was too high to think of having any
+communication with them. I observed a great number of coconut-trees but
+did not see one plantain-tree. There were other trees but of what kind we
+could not distinguish: near the east end are two remarkable rocks, and a
+reef runs off to the eastward about half a league.
+
+The latitude of Maitea is 17 degrees 53 minutes south; and by our
+timekeeper its longitude is 1 degree 24 minutes east from Point Venus.
+Variation of the compass 5 degrees 36 minutes east.
+
+We continued our course to the westward, and at six in the evening saw
+Otaheite bearing west three-quarters south; the island Maitea, then in
+sight, bearing east half south, eight leagues distant. As there was great
+probability that we should remain a considerable time at Otaheite, it
+could not be expected that the intercourse of my people with the natives
+should be of a very reserved nature: I therefore ordered that every
+person should be examined by the surgeon, and had the satisfaction to
+learn from his report that they were all perfectly free from any venereal
+complaint.
+
+Sunday 26.
+
+On the 26th at four o'clock in the morning, having run twenty-five
+leagues from Maitea, we brought to till daylight, when we saw Point Venus
+bearing south-west by west, distant about four leagues. As we drew near a
+great number of canoes came off to us. Their first enquiries were if we
+were tyos, which signifies friends; and whether we came from Pretanie
+(their pronunciation of Britain) or from Lima: they were no sooner
+satisfied in this than they crowded on board in vast numbers,
+notwithstanding our endeavours to prevent it, as we were working the ship
+in; and in less than ten minutes the deck was so full that I could scarce
+find my own people. At nine in the forenoon we were obliged to anchor in
+the outer part of Matavai Bay, in thirteen fathoms, being prevented by
+light variable winds from placing the ship in a proper berth. In this
+station the west part of One-tree hill bore south by east half east one
+mile distant.
+
+This passage of fifty-two days from Van Diemen's Land may be rated as
+moderate sailing. We passed New Zealand with the spring equinox and the
+winds, though strong, were at no time violent. To the southward of 40
+degrees 0 minutes south they were variable; between the latitudes of 40
+and 33 degrees south the wind kept in the north-west quarter; afterwards
+till we got into the trade the winds were variable, mostly from the
+eastward, but light and inclinable to calms. The ship was 3 degrees 22
+minutes in longitude to the eastward of the dead reckoning, which the
+timekeeper almost invariably proved to be owing to a current giving us
+more easting than the log. Our track was as distant from any course of
+former ships as I could conveniently make it and, though we made no new
+discoveries, except the small cluster of islands near New Zealand, yet in
+other parts of the track, as has been noticed, we met with signs of being
+in the neighbourhood of land.
+
+It may not be unworthy of remark that the whole distance which the ship
+had run by the log, in direct and contrary courses, from leaving England
+to our anchoring at Otaheite, was twenty-seven thousand and eighty-six
+miles which, on an average, is at the rate of a hundred and eight miles
+each twenty-four hours.
+
+
+CHAPTER 6.
+
+Account of an English Ship lately sailed from Otaheite.
+Death of Omai.
+Captain Cook's Picture sent on board.
+Otoo visits the Ship.
+His Visit returned.
+Natives well disposed towards us.
+Account of the Cattle left by Captain Cook.
+Breadfruit plants promised.
+Visit to the Earee Rahie.
+Presents made to the Arreoys.
+
+1788. October. Sunday 26.
+
+The ship being anchored, our number of visitors continued to increase;
+but as yet we saw no person that we could recollect to have been of much
+consequence. Some inferior chiefs made me presents of a few hogs and I
+made them presents in return. We were supplied with coconuts in great
+abundance but breadfruit was scarce.
+
+Many enquiries were made after Captain Cook, Sir Joseph Banks, and many
+of their former friends. They said a ship had been here from which they
+had learnt that Captain Cook was dead; but the circumstances of his death
+they did not appear to be acquainted with; and I had given particular
+directions to my officers and ship's company that they should not be
+mentioned. The ship spoken of, they informed me, stayed at Otaheite one
+month and had been gone four months, by some of their accounts; according
+to others only three months. The captain they called Tonah. I understood
+likewise from them that Lieutenant Watts was in the ship who, having been
+here in the Resolution with Captain Cook, was well known to them. One of
+my first enquiries, as will naturally be imagined, was after our friend
+Omai; and it was a sensible mortification and disappointment to me to
+hear that not only Omai, but both the New Zealand boys who had been left
+with him, were dead. Everyone agreed in their information that they died
+a natural death. Otoo, who was the chief of Matavai when Captain Cook was
+here the last time, was absent at another part of the island; they told
+me messengers were sent to inform him of our arrival, and that he was
+expected to return soon. There appeared among the natives in general
+great goodwill towards us, and they seemed to be much rejoiced at our
+arrival. This whole day we experienced no instance of dishonesty. We were
+so much crowded that I could not undertake to remove to a more proper
+station without danger of disobliging our visitors by desiring them to
+leave the ship: this business was therefore deferred till the next
+morning.
+
+Monday 27.
+
+Early in the morning, before the natives began to flock off to us, we
+weighed anchor to work farther into the bay, and moored at about a
+quarter of a mile distance from the shore; Point Venus bearing north 16
+degrees east; the west part of One-tree hill south-west by south; and the
+point of the reef north 37 degrees west; the ship lying in seven fathoms
+water.
+
+Several chiefs now came on board and expressed great pleasure at seeing
+me. Among these were Otow, the father of Otoo, and Oreepyah, his brother;
+also another chief of Matavai called Poeeno: and to these men I made
+presents. Two messengers likewise arrived from Otoo to acquaint me of his
+being on his way to the ship; each of whom brought me as a present from
+Otoo a small pig and a young plantain-tree as a token of friendship. The
+ship was now plentifully supplied with provisions; every person having as
+much as he could consume.
+
+As soon as the ship was secured I went on shore with the chief Poeeno,
+and accompanied by a multitude of the natives. He conducted me to the
+place where we had fixed our tents in 1777 and desired that I would now
+appropriate the spot to the same use. We then went across the beach and
+through a walk delightfully shaded with breadfruit trees to his own
+house. Here we found two women at work staining a piece of cloth red.
+These I found were his wife and her sister. They desired me to sit down
+on a mat which was spread for the purpose, and with great kindness
+offered me refreshments. I received the congratulations of several
+strangers who came to us and behaved with great decorum and attention.
+The people however thronged about the house in such numbers that I was
+much incommoded by the heat, which being observed they immediately drew
+back. Among the crowd I saw a man who had lost his arm just above the
+elbow; the stump was well covered and the cure seemed as perfect as could
+be expected from the greatest professional skill.
+
+I made enquiries about the cattle that had been left here by Captain
+Cook, but the accounts I received were very unfavourable and so various
+that for the present I shall forebear speaking of them. After staying
+about an hour I got up to take leave, when the women in a very obliging
+manner came to me with a mat and a piece of their finest cloth, which
+they put on me after the Otaheite fashion. When I was thus dressed they
+each of them took one of my hands, and accompanied me to the waterside,
+and at parting promised that they would soon return my visit.
+
+In this walk I had the satisfaction to see that the island had received
+some benefit from our former visits. Two shaddocks were brought to me, a
+fruit which they had not, till we introduced it. And among the articles
+which they brought off to the ship and offered for sale were capsicums,
+pumpkins, and two young goats.
+
+On my return to the ship I found that a small disturbance had been
+occasioned by one of the natives making an attempt to steal a tin pot;
+which, on being known to Oreepyah, he flew into a violent rage, and it
+was with some difficulty that the thief escaped with his life. He drove
+all his countrymen out of the ship; and when he saw me he desired if at
+any time I found a thief that I would order him to be tied up and
+punished with a severe flogging.
+
+This forenoon a man came on board with Captain Cook's picture which had
+been drawn by Mr. Webber in 1777 and left with Otoo. It was brought to me
+to be repaired. The frame was broken but the picture no way damaged
+except a little in the background. They called it Toote (which has always
+been their manner of pronouncing Captain Cook's name) Earee no Otaheite,
+chief of Otaheite. They said Toote had desired Otoo, whenever any English
+ship came, to show the picture, and it would be acknowledged as a token
+of friendship. The youngest brother of Otoo, named Whydooah, visited me
+this afternoon: he appeared stupefied with drinking ava. At sunset all
+our male visitors left the ship.
+
+Tuesday 28.
+
+The next morning early I received a message from Otoo to inform me of his
+arrival and requesting that I would send a boat for him; which I
+immediately did with an officer (Mr. Christian) to conduct him on board.
+He came with numerous attendants and expressed much satisfaction at our
+meeting. After introducing his wife to me we joined noses, the customary
+manner of saluting, and to perpetuate our friendship he desired we should
+exchange names. I was surprised to find that instead of Otoo, the name by
+which he formerly went, he was now called Tinah. The name of Otoo, with
+the title of Earee Rahie, I was informed had devolved to his eldest son
+who was yet a minor, as is the custom of the country. The name of Tinah's
+wife was Iddeah: with her was a woman dressed with a large quantity of
+cloth in the form of a hoop, which was taken off and presented to me with
+a large hog and some breadfruit. I then took my visitors into the cabin
+and after a short time produced my presents in return. The present I made
+to Tinah (by which name I shall hereafter call him) consisted of
+hatchets, small adzes, files, gimblets, saws, looking-glasses, red
+feathers, and two shirts. To Iddeah I gave earrings, necklaces, and
+beads; but she expressed a desire also for iron, and therefore I made the
+same assortment for her as I had for the husband. Much conversation took
+place among them on the value of the different articles and they appeared
+extremely satisfied, so that they determined to spend the day with me and
+requested I would show them all over the ship, and particularly the cabin
+where I slept. This though I was not fond of doing I indulged them in;
+and the consequence was as I had apprehended that they took a fancy to so
+many things that they got from me nearly as much more as I had before
+given them. Afterwards Tinah desired me to fire some of the great guns:
+this I likewise complied with and, as the shot fell into the sea at a
+great distance, all the natives expressed their surprise by loud shouts
+and acclamations.
+
+I had a large company at dinner; for besides Tinah and his wife there was
+Otow, the father of Tinah, Oreepyah, and Whydooah, two of his brothers,
+Poeeno, and several other chiefs. Tinah is a very large man, much above
+the common stature, being not less than six feet four inches in height
+and proportionably stout: his age about thirty-five. His wife (Iddeah) I
+judged to be about twenty-four years of age: she is likewise much above
+the common size of the women at Otaheite and has a very animated and
+intelligent countenance. Whydooah, the younger brother of Tinah, was
+highly spoken of as a warrior but had the character of being the greatest
+drunkard in the country; and indeed to judge from the withered appearance
+of his skin he must have used the pernicious drink called ava to great
+excess. Tinah was fed by one of his attendants who sat by him for that
+purpose, this being a particular custom among some of the superior
+chiefs; and I must do him the justice to say he kept his attendant
+constantly employed: there was indeed little reason to complain of want
+of appetite in any of my guests. As the women are not allowed to eat in
+presence of the men Iddeah dined with some of her companions about an
+hour afterwards in private, except that her husband Tinah favoured them
+with his company and seemed to have entirely forgotten that he had
+already dined.
+
+Provisions were brought off to the ship in the greatest plenty and, to
+prevent as much as possible anything which might occasion disputes, I
+desired Mr. Peckover, the gunner, to undertake the management of our
+traffic with the natives. Some of the hogs brought today weighed 200
+pounds and we purchased several for salting. Goats were likewise brought
+off for sale, and I bought a she-goat and kid for less than would have
+purchased a small hog. Our friends here expressed much disappointment
+that there was no portrait-painter on board; Tinah in particular, who
+wished to have had pictures of his father and family.
+
+An intimacy between the natives and our people was already so general
+that there was scarce a man in the ship who had not his tyo or friend.
+Tinah continued with me the whole afternoon, in the course of which he
+ate four times of roast pork besides his dinner. When he left the ship he
+requested I would keep for him all the presents I had given to him as he
+had not at Matavai a place sufficiently safe to secure them from being
+stolen; I therefore showed him a locker in my cabin for his use and gave
+him a key to it. This is perhaps not so much a proof of his want of power
+as of the estimation in which they hold European commodities and which
+makes more than the common means of security requisite to prevent theft.
+
+I had sent Nelson and his assistant to look for plants, and it was no
+small pleasure to me to find by their report that according to
+appearances the object of my mission would probably be accomplished with
+ease. I had given directions to everyone on board not to make known to
+the islanders the purpose of our coming lest it might enhance the value
+of the breadfruit plants, or occasion other difficulties. Perhaps so much
+caution was not necessary but at all events I wished to reserve to myself
+the time and manner of communication. Nelson met with two fine
+shaddock-trees which he had planted in 1777: they were full of fruit but
+not ripe.
+
+Wednesday 29.
+
+In the morning I returned Tinah's visit for I found he expected it. He
+was in a small shed about a quarter of a mile to the eastward of Matavai
+point with his wife and three children, not their own but who they said
+were relations. In my walk I had picked up a numerous attendance for
+everyone I met followed me; so that I had collected such a crowd that the
+heat was scarce bearable, everyone endeavouring to get a look to satisfy
+their curiosity: they however carefully avoided pressing against me, and
+welcomed me with cheerful countenances and great good nature.
+
+I made Tinah understand that my visit was particularly to him, and gave
+him a second present, equal to the first, which he received with great
+pleasure; and to the people of consequence that were about him I also
+presented some article or other. There were great numbers of children
+and, as I took notice of the little ones that were in arms and gave them
+beads, both small and great, but with much drollery and good humour,
+endeavoured to benefit by the occasion. Boys of ten and twelve years old
+were caught up in arms and brought to me, which created much laughter; so
+that in a short time I got rid of all I had brought on shore.
+
+In my return I called on Poeeno, and an elderly chief, a relation of his,
+called Moannah, the principal men of this district and with whom I judged
+it my interest to be on good terms. I gave them several valuable articles
+and, as the situation here was eligible for a garden, I planted melon,
+cucumber, and salad-seeds. I told them many other things should be sown
+for their use; and they appeared much pleased when they understood I
+intended to plant such things as would grow to be trees and produce
+fruit. I saw large patches of tobacco growing without culture and many
+pumpkin vines. The breadfruit trees and coconut trees at this time were
+full of fruit.
+
+I went on board to dinner and Moannah accompanied me. In the afternoon I
+returned to Poeeno's with some additional seeds to improve the little
+garden I had begun to make in the forenoon. While I was giving directions
+I received a message from Tinah inviting me to come to him at his brother
+Oreepyah's house, which was near the beach. At this place I found a great
+number of people collected who, on my appearance, immediately made way
+for me to sit down by Tinah. The crowd being ordered to draw back, a
+piece of cloth about two yards wide and forty-one yards in length was
+spread on the ground; and another piece of cloth was brought by Oreepyah,
+which he put over my shoulders and round my waist in the manner the
+chiefs are clothed. Two large hogs, weighing each above two hundred
+pounds, and a quantity of baked breadfruit and coconuts were then laid
+before me as a present, and I was desired to walk from one end of the
+cloth spread on the ground to the other, in the course of which Tyo and
+Ehoah* were repeated with loud acclamations. This ceremony being ended
+Tinah desired I would send the things on board, which completely loaded
+the boat; we therefore waited till she came back and then I took them on
+board with me; for I knew they expected some return. The present which I
+made on this occasion was equal to any that I had made before; but I
+discovered that Tinah was not the sole proprietor of what he had given to
+me for the present I gave was divided among those who, I guessed, had
+contributed to support his dignity; among whom were Moannah, Poeenah, and
+Oreepyah; Tinah however kept the greatest part of what I had given and
+everyone seemed satisfied with the proportion he allotted them.
+
+(*Footnote. Tyo and Ehoah are words of the same signification, i.e.
+friend.)
+
+The Otaheite breed of hogs seems to be supplanted by the European.
+Originally they were of the China sort, short and very thick-necked; but
+the superior size of the European have made them encourage our breed.
+
+Thursday 30.
+
+At break of day Tinah and his wife came again to the ship and, as their
+attendants were numerous, I provided a breakfast for them of broiled and
+roasted pork, which they preferred to tea. Our arrival being known all
+over the island, we had this day a great number of strangers on board who
+came from the most remote parts, and in the forenoon some hooks and
+thimbles were cut out from the blocks. This induced me to order all the
+natives out of the ship except the chiefs and their attendants. In
+executing these orders a daring fellow attacked the sentinel but escaped
+among the crowd. Everyone knew the consequence of offending the sentinel
+and were exceedingly alarmed at the appearance of anger I thought
+necessary to assume.
+
+Among those who visited us today were two chiefs of great consequence,
+Marremarre and his son Poohaitaiah Otee, Earees of the districts of
+Itteeah and Attahooroo. Otee was fed at dinner in the same manner as
+Tinah. It was evident that the attention which I showed to these chiefs
+seemed to give uneasiness to Tinah. At sunset my visitors took leave and
+were carried on shore by one of the ship's boats, which has always been
+regarded as a mark of distinction, and on that account preferred by them
+to going in their own canoes. At their request a race was rowed between
+our five-oared cutter and one of their double canoes with four paddles.
+Great exertions were used on both sides but the cutter first reached the
+shore. In their return to the ship Oreepyah stopped them till a large
+piece of cloth that he had sent for was brought; which he tied to the
+boat-hook and desired should be carried off as a trophy of their victory.
+
+Friday 31.
+
+The next morning at sunrise Moannah came on board with a message from
+Tinah to acquaint me that he was mattow (afraid to see me) till he had
+recovered some things that had been stolen from the ship and which he had
+sent after. I knew there was something wrong, as no canoes came off to us
+and, on looking about, we found the buoy of the best bower anchor had
+been taken away, I imagine for the sake of some iron hoops that were on
+it. That this might not create any coolness I sent a boat to Tinah to
+invite him and his friends to come on board; which they immediately did
+and were no longer under any apprehensions. I had made an appointment
+with Oreepyah for him to go with me to Oparre this morning; but the
+accident just mentioned caused him to break his engagement, he having
+gone, I was informed, in search of what had been stolen.
+
+Oparre is the district next to the westward of Matavai. One of my reasons
+for going to Oparre was to see if Nelson would be able to procure plants
+there; but I gave the credit of my visit to young Otoo, the son of Tinah,
+who was the Earee Rahie, and lived with the rest of Tinah's children at
+Oparre. I prepared a magnificent present for this youth, who was
+represented to me as the person of the greatest consequence, or rather of
+the highest rank, in the island. At noon I left the ship, accompanied by
+Tinah, his wife Iddeah, and Poeeno. Moannah was to have been of the party
+but he insisted on remaining in the ship to prevent his countrymen from
+attempting to steal anything.
+
+After half an hour's sailing we arrived at Oparre. During this time Tinah
+gave me a more circumstantial account of the cattle and sheep that had
+been left with him: he related that, after five years from the time of
+Captain Cook's departure (counting 63 moons) the people of the Island
+Eimeo joined with those of Attahooroo, a district of Otaheite, and made a
+descent on Oparre: that after some resistance by which many men were
+killed Tinah and his people fled to the mountains, leaving all their
+property to the mercy of the victorious party who destroyed almost
+everything which they found not convenient to take away with them. Some
+of the cattle were killed and eaten but the greater part were taken to
+Eimeo. The cows he said had produced eight calves and the ewes ten young
+ones. The ducks, among which they classed the geese, had greatly
+increased; but the turkeys and peacocks, whatever was the cause, had not
+bred. It seemed to give Tinah great pleasure to observe how much I was
+concerned for the destruction of so many useful animals; but the cause of
+his satisfaction, I found, did not proceed from any expectation that I
+should replace them, but from the belief that I would take vengeance on
+the people who had deprived him of them; for with respect to the loss of
+the cattle he appeared so unconcerned and indifferent that I was very
+angry with him. There is however sufficient excuse for his resentment
+against the people of Eimeo; for the large extensive houses which we had
+seen in this part of Otaheite in the year 1777 were all destroyed, and at
+present they had no other habitations than light sheds which might be
+taken by the four corners and removed by four men: and of the many large
+canoes which they then had not more than three remained. Tinah,
+understanding from my conversation that I intended visiting some of the
+other islands in this neighbourhood, very earnestly desired I would not
+think of leaving Matavai. "Here," said he, "you shall be supplied
+plentifully with everything you want. All here are your friends and
+friends of King George: if you go to the other islands you will have
+everything stolen from you." I replied that, on account of their goodwill
+and from a desire to serve him and his country, King George had sent out
+those valuable presents to him; "and will not you, Tinah, send something
+to King George in return?" "Yes," he said, "I will send him anything I
+have;" and then began to enumerate the different articles in his power,
+among which he mentioned the breadfruit. This was the exact point to
+which I wished to bring the conversation and, seizing an opportunity
+which had every appearance of being undesigned and accidental, I told him
+the breadfruit trees were what King George would like; upon which he
+promised me a great many should be put on board, and seemed much
+delighted to find it so easily in his power to send anything that would
+be well received by King George.
+
+On landing at Oparre an immense crowd of natives as usual immediately
+thronged about us. I enquired for Oreepyah, whom I expected to have met
+me here, but he was not yet returned from his search after the thieves;
+we therefore went under a shed of his to wait for him, and in about a
+quarter of an hour he joined us, bringing with him an iron scraper and
+one of the hoops of the buoy. I thanked him for the trouble which he had
+taken, and assured him that I was perfectly satisfied, for he still
+seemed apprehensive of my displeasure.
+
+We took leave for a short time of Oreepyah and I proceeded with Tinah to
+make my visit to the young Otoo, the Earee Rahie. When we had walked
+about five minutes Tinah stopped and informed me that no person could be
+permitted to see his son, who was covered above the shoulders. He then
+took off his upper garments and requested I would do the same. I replied
+that I had no objection to go as I would to my own king, who was the
+greatest in all the world and, pulling off my hat, he threw a piece of
+cloth round my shoulders and we went on. About a quarter of a mile
+farther towards the hills, through a delightful shade of breadfruit
+trees, we stopped at the side of a small serpentine river: here I was in
+view of a house on the other side at about fifty yards distance. From
+this house the young king was brought out on a man's shoulders, clothed
+in a piece of fine white cloth, and I was desired by Tinah to salute him
+by the name of Too Earee Rahie. The present which I had prepared was
+divided into three parts, and two other children made their appearance in
+the same manner. The first present I gave to a messenger who attended for
+that purpose; and I was instructed by Tinah to say that it was for the
+Earee Rahie; that I was his friend; that I hated thieves; and that I came
+from Britannia. The second present was sent in the same manner, with a
+similar message, to one of the other children and likewise the third.
+
+As I could not see the Earee Rahie distinctly I desired to be permitted
+to go over the river to him; but this, it seems, could not be complied
+with: therefore after seeing the presents delivered I returned with Tinah
+towards Oreepyah's house. I was informed that Tinah had four children by
+his wife Iddeah. Otoo, or Too, the Earee Rahie, appeared to be about six
+years old: the second is a girl named Terrenah Oroah: the third a boy,
+Terreetappanooai; and a fourth, an infant girl, whom I did not see, named
+Tahamydooah.
+
+When we came to the place where we had first stopped Tinah took the cloth
+from my shoulders and desired me to put my hat on; I expressed a desire
+to see more of the place and he took me back by a different way. On
+passing a trunk of a tree, rudely carved, I was desired again to pull my
+hat off, and all uncovered their shoulders. This I discovered to be
+nothing more than the boundary of the king's land; on which whoever set
+their feet uncovered themselves out of respect.
+
+We stopped at a house belonging to Tinah where I was treated with a
+concert of one drum and three flutes with singing by four men. I made
+some presents to the performers and we removed to Oreepyah's house where,
+after paying my compliments to him, which I found was expected, Tinah
+made me a present of a large hog and some coconuts. He then introduced an
+uncle of his called Mowworoah, a very old man much tattooed and almost
+blind. To this chief I made a present and soon after I embarked with
+Tinah, Oreepyah, their wives, and Poeeno. A vast number of people were
+collected on the beach to see us depart and as soon as the boat had put
+off Tinah desired me to fire my pocket pistol, the poopooe ete ete, as he
+called it: the report seemed to electrify the whole crowd but, finding no
+harm done, they gave great shouts of approbation.
+
+Nelson, who accompanied me in this expedition, had but little opportunity
+to search after plants, the natives having crowded so much about him: he
+saw enough however to assure him that they were to be procured here as
+plentifully as at Matavai.
+
+In our passage to the ship, which we rowed in one hour, nothing but
+Britannie was enquired after and of the number of ships and guns. When I
+told them we had ships of 100 guns they could not believe it till I drew
+one on paper: they then asked me if it was not as big as Tarrah, which is
+a high projecting headland halfway between Matavai and Oparre, called by
+us One-tree Hill. Tinah much wished that one of these large ships should
+be sent to Otaheite and that myself should come in her, and bring him a
+number of things that he wanted; among which he particularly desired beds
+and high-backed elbow chairs might not be forgotten: a request perfectly
+according with the indolent character of Tinah.
+
+November. Saturday 1.
+
+As we had occasion to fix a tent on Point Venus this morning we moved the
+ship nearer to it and moored again in six fathoms, the point bearing
+north-north-east.
+
+Tinah and several other chiefs dined on board with me. After dinner I
+went on shore with Tinah and made a visit to his father Otow. I likewise
+went to the garden which I had made near Poeeno's house and found
+everything had been taken care of. After this I was invited to an
+entertainment called Heiva, which Tinah had ordered and which consisted
+of singing and dancing by three men and a young girl. When this
+performance was finished I returned to the ship.
+
+Sunday 2.
+
+At daylight I sent Mr. Christian with a party to erect our tent and soon
+after followed myself with Tinah, Moannah, and Poeeno. With their consent
+I fixed a boundary, within which the natives were not to enter without
+leave and the chiefs cautioned them against it.
+
+The principal use of the tents on shore was for a lodgment for the
+plants; and I had now, instead of appearing to receive a favour, brought
+the chiefs to believe that I was doing them a kindness in carrying the
+plants as a present from them to the Earee Rahie no Britanee. The party
+at the tent consisted of nine persons, including Nelson and his
+assistant.
+
+Tinah dined with me on board and was today my only visitor: nevertheless
+the ceremony of being fed he so scrupulously observed that, even after
+all the attendants were sent away and we were left by ourselves, I was
+obliged to lift the wine to his mouth. The wives of the Earees are
+sometimes subject to this restriction after the birth of a child but are
+released after a certain time on performing a ceremony called Oammo.
+
+After dinner Tinah invited me to accompany him with a present of
+provisions to a party of the Arreoys, a society described in the accounts
+of the former voyages: in this ceremony he made me the principal person.
+Our way to the place where the offering was to be made was by the side of
+a river along the banks of which I had always walked before this time;
+but on the present occasion a canoe was provided for me and dragged by
+eight men. On arriving at the landing-place I saw a large quantity of
+breadfruit with some hogs ready dressed and a quantity of cloth. At about
+forty yards distant sat a man who, I was informed, was a principal
+Arreoy. A lane being made by the crowd he was addressed by one of Tinah's
+people, standing on the canoe, in a speech composed of short sentences
+which lasted about a quarter of an hour. During this a piece of cloth was
+produced, one end of which I was desired to hold, and five men, one with
+a sucking pig and the others having each a basket of breadfruit, prepared
+to follow me. In this order we advanced to the Arreoy and laid the whole
+down before him. I then spoke several sentences dictated to me by Tinah,
+the meaning of which I did not understand and, my pronunciation not being
+very exact, caused a great deal of mirth. This speech being finished I
+was shown another Arreoy, who had come from Ulietea, and to him likewise
+I was required to deliver an oration. Tinah understanding from me that I
+had children in my own country he desired me to make one more offering on
+their account. There still remained three baskets of breadfruit, a small
+pig, and another piece of cloth: with these, assisted as before, I made
+the offering in favour of my children to the man whom I had first
+addressed. He made no reply to all my fine speeches but sat with great
+gravity and received everything as a matter of right and not of courtesy.
+
+All that I could make out of this strange ceremony was that the Arreoys
+are highly respected and that the society is chiefly composed of men
+distinguished by their valour or some other merit, and that great trust
+and confidence is reposed in them; but I could not comprehend what this
+had to do with my children or why it should be imagined that an offering
+made on their account to a society of men who destroy all their children
+should be propitious. I learnt from Tinah, in talking about his children,
+that his first-born child was killed as soon as it came into the world,
+he being then an Arreoy; but before his second child was born he quitted
+the society. The Arreoys are allowed great latitude in their amours
+except in times of danger. Then as they are almost all fighting men (tata
+toa) they are restricted that they may not weaken or enervate themselves.
+
+These ceremonies being ended I returned to the ship.
+
+Such of the natives as I conversed with about the institution of so
+extraordinary a society as the Arreoy asserted that it was necessary to
+prevent an overpopulation. Worrow worrow no te mydidde, worrow worrow te
+tata. We have too many children and too many men was their constant
+excuse. Yet it does not appear that they are apprehensive of too great an
+increase of the lower class of people, none of them being ever admitted
+into the Arreoy society. The most remarkable instance related to me of
+the barbarity of this institution was of Teppahoo, the Earee of the
+district of Tettaha, and his wife, Tetteehowdeeah, who is sister to Otow
+and considered as a person of the first consequence. I was told that they
+have had eight children, every one of which was destroyed as soon as
+born. That any human beings were ever so devoid of natural affection as
+not to wish to preserve alive one of so many children is not credible. It
+is more reasonable to conclude that the death of these infants was not an
+act of choice in the parents; but that they were sacrificed in compliance
+with some barbarous superstition with which we are unacquainted. What
+strengthens this conjecture is that they have adopted a nephew as their
+heir, of whom they are excessively fond.
+
+In countries so limited as the islands in the South Seas, the natives of
+which, before they were discovered by European navigators, probably had
+not an idea of the existence of other lands, it is not unnatural that an
+increasing population should occasion apprehensions of universal
+distress. Orders of celibacy which have proved so prejudicial in other
+countries might perhaps in this have been beneficial; so far at least as
+to have answered their purpose by means not criminal. The number of
+inhabitants at Otaheite have been estimated at above one hundred
+thousand. The island however is not cultivated to the greatest advantage:
+yet were they continually to improve in husbandry their improvement could
+not for a length of time keep pace with an unlimited population.
+
+An idea here presents itself which, however fanciful it may appear at
+first sight, seems to merit some attention: While we see among these
+islands so great a waste of the human species that numbers are born only
+to die, and at the same time a large continent so near to them as New
+Holland, in which there is so great a waste of land uncultivated and
+almost destitute of inhabitants, it naturally occurs how greatly the two
+countries might be made to benefit each other, and gives occasion to
+regret that the islanders are not instructed in the means of emigrating
+to New Holland, which seems as if designed by nature to serve as an
+asylum for the superflux of inhabitants in the islands. Such a plan of
+emigration, if rendered practicable to them, might not only be the means
+of abolishing the horrid custom of destroying children as it would remove
+the plea of necessity but might lead to other important purposes. A great
+continent would be converted from a desert to a populous country; a
+number of our fellow-creatures would be saved; the inhabitants of the
+islands would become more civilised; and it is not improbable but that
+our colonies in New Holland would derive so much benefit as to more than
+repay any trouble of expense that might be incurred in endeavouring to
+promote so humane a plan.
+
+The latter however is a remote consideration for the intertropical parts
+of New Holland are those most suited to the habits and manner of living
+of the islanders; and likewise the soil and climate are the best adapted
+to their modes of agriculture. Man placed by his Creator in the warm
+climates perhaps would never emigrate into the colder unless under the
+tyrannous influence of necessity; and ages might elapse before the new
+inhabitants would spread to our settlers though they are but barely
+within the limits of frost, that great cause of nine-tenths of the
+necessities of Europeans. Nevertheless besides forwarding the purposes of
+humanity and general convenience in bringing a people without land to a
+land without people the benefit of a mutual intercourse with a
+neighbouring and friendly colony would in itself be no inconsiderable
+advantage.
+
+Among people so free from ostentation as the Otaheiteans, and whose
+manners are so simple and natural, the strictness with which the
+punctilios of rank are observed is surprising. I know not if any action,
+however meritorious, can elevate a man above the class in which he was
+born unless he were to acquire sufficient power to confer dignity on
+himself. If any woman of the inferior classes has a child by an Earee it
+is not suffered to live. Perhaps the offspring of Teppahoo and
+Tetteehowdeeah were destined to satisfy some cruel adjustment of rank and
+precedency.
+
+
+CHAPTER 7.
+
+A theft committed.
+Deception of the painted Head.
+Conversation with a Priest.
+A Wrestling Match.
+Reports of the Natives concerning other Islands.
+Some Account of Omai.
+
+1788. November. Monday 3.
+
+The trade for provisions I directed to be carried on at the tent by Mr.
+Peckover the gunner. Moannah likewise resided there as a guard over his
+countrymen; but though it appeared to be the wish of all the chiefs that
+we should remain unmolested it was not possible entirely to prevent them
+from pilfering.
+
+My table at dinner was generally crowded. Tinah, Oreepyah, Poeeno, and
+Moannah, were my regular guests and I was seldom without some chiefs from
+other districts. Almost every individual of any consequence has several
+names which makes it frequently perplexing when the same person is spoken
+of to know who is meant. Every chief has perhaps a dozen or more names in
+the course of thirty years; so that the person who has been spoken of by
+one visitor will not perhaps be known to another unless other
+circumstances lead to a discovery. The father of Tinah, at this time
+called Otow, was known in 1769 by the name of Whappai.
+
+I showed Tinah the preparations I was making to take on board the
+breadfruit plants which pleased him exceedingly, but he did not forget to
+remind me that when the next ship came out he hoped King George would
+send him large axes, files, saws, cloth of all kinds, hats, chairs, and
+bedsteads, with arms, ammunition, and in short everything he could think
+of mentioning.
+
+This afternoon the gudgeon of the rudder belonging to the large cutter
+was drawn out and stolen without being perceived by the man that was
+stationed to take care of her. Several petty thefts having been committed
+by the natives, mostly owing to the negligence of our own people and, as
+these kind of accidents generally created alarm and had a tendency to
+interrupt the good terms on which we were with the chiefs, I thought it
+would have a good effect to punish the boat-keeper in their presence,
+many of them happening to be then on board; and accordingly I ordered him
+a dozen lashes. Tinah with several of the chiefs attended the punishment
+and interceded very earnestly to get it mitigated: the women showed great
+sympathy and that degree of feeling which characterises the amiable part
+of their sex.
+
+The natives brought off today two different kinds of roots that grow like
+yams: one they call Ettee, which is a sweet root, common also to the
+Friendly Islands, and may be eaten as a sweetmeat: the other they call
+Appay, a root like the Tyah or Eddie in the West Indies. A fruit called
+Ayyah, which is the jambo of Batavia, was likewise brought off to us:
+they are as large as middle-sized apples, very juicy and refreshing, and
+may be eaten in large quantities. Also some Avees, which are the real
+Otaheite apple; but they were not yet in season. These are a delicious
+high-flavoured fruit and before they are ripe answer the culinary
+purposes of our apples.
+
+Tuesday 4.
+
+A chief called Tootaha, who came from the island Ulietea, was introduced
+to me today by Tinah as one of his particular friends. I was told that he
+was a priest and a person of great knowledge. I desired Tinah to take
+what he thought proper as a present for him; and I must do Tinah the
+justice to say he was more sparing than I should have been. I likewise
+received a visit today from Oedidee, the man who had been at sea with
+Captain Cook in 1773 and 1774, as related in the account of that voyage.
+He still retained some of the English words which he had learnt in that
+expedition.
+
+Wednesday 5.
+
+The weather variable with lightning and frequent showers of rain. Wind
+east-north-east.
+
+This was the first day of our beginning to take up plants: we had much
+pleasure in collecting them for the natives offered their assistance and
+perfectly understood the method of taking them up and pruning them.
+
+The crowd of natives was not so great as hitherto it had been: the
+curiosity of strangers was satisfied and, as the weather began to be
+unsettled and rainy, they had almost all returned to their homes so that
+only the people of Matavai and Oparre remained with us, except a few
+chiefs from other islands: our supplies however were abundant and what I
+considered as no small addition to our comforts, we ceased to be
+incommoded when on shore by the natives following us, and could take our
+walks almost unnoticed. In any house that we wished to enter we always
+experienced a kind reception and without officiousness. The Otaheiteans
+have the most perfect easiness of manners, equally free from forwardness
+and formality. When they offer refreshments if they are not accepted they
+do not think of offering them the second time; for they have not the
+least idea of that ceremonious kind of refusal which expects a second
+invitation. In like manner at taking leave we were never troubled with
+solicitations to prolong our visit, but went without ceremony except
+making use of a farewell expression at parting. Another advantage, seldom
+found in warm countries, was, in this part of Otaheite being free from
+mosquitoes, though at particular times of the year the inhabitants are
+pestered with great numbers of flies.
+
+Moannah continued our constant friend at the tent and with Tinah and all
+his friends dined with me every day.
+
+The ship's barber had brought with him from London a painted head such as
+the hair-dressers have in their shops to show the different fashions of
+dressing hair; and it being made with regular features and well-coloured,
+I desired him to dress it, which he did with much neatness, and with a
+stick and a quantity of cloth he formed a body. It was then reported to
+the natives that we had an Englishwoman on board and the quarter-deck was
+cleared of the crowd that she might make her appearance. Being handed up
+the ladder and carried to the after-part of the deck there was a general
+shout of "Huaheine no Brittane myty." Huaheine signifies woman and myty
+good. Many of them thought it was living and asked if it was my wife. One
+old woman ran with presents of cloth and breadfruit and laid them at her
+feet; at last they found out the cheat; but continued all delighted with
+it, except the old lady who felt herself mortified and took back her
+presents for which she was laughed at exceedingly. Tinah and all the
+chiefs enjoyed the joke and, after making many enquiries about the
+British women, they strictly enjoined me when I came again to bring a
+ship full of them.
+
+Some very fine sugarcane was brought to me; each of the pieces was six
+inches round. I had before told Tinah that our sugar was made of it and
+he was very desirous to discover the means; for they were so fond of our
+loaf sugar that a present to any chief would have been incomplete without
+a piece of it. Another article in great estimation and likewise expected
+to make part of a present was scissors, which they made use of to keep
+their beards in order.
+
+By this time Nelson had, with assistance from the ship, completed a large
+garden near the tents in which were sown seeds of different kinds that we
+had collected at the Cape of Good Hope. I likewise distributed
+fruit-stones and almonds for planting among the chiefs, who I hope will
+endeavour to make them succeed and, as they are very fond of
+sweet-smelling flowers with which the women delight to ornament
+themselves, I gave them some rose-seed.
+
+Thursday 6.
+
+We had very variable weather, much rain, and some westerly winds; so that
+a considerable swell ran into the bay and a number of spotted white and
+black porpoises made their appearance.
+
+I had the mortification to see that our garden-ground had been much trod
+over; and what was worse the chiefs appeared but little concerned at it.
+To this kind of carelessness and indifference I attribute the miscarriage
+of many of the plants left here by Captain Cook. I had now in a
+flourishing state two orange plants, some vines, a fig-tree, and two
+pineapple plants, which I gave to Poeeno whose residence is a place
+favourable for their growth.
+
+We got on successfully with our plants, having a hundred potted at the
+tent and in a fair way of doing well. The cabin also was completed and
+ready to receive them on board.
+
+I have before remarked that my friend Tinah was rather of a selfish
+disposition and this afternoon he showed a stronger instance of it than I
+was witness to at any time before or after. His brother Oreepyah sent on
+board to me a present of a large hog and a quantity of breadfruit: but
+these kind of presents are much more expensive than purchasing at the
+market. Soon after Oreepyah himself came on board. Tinah was with me at
+the time and whispered me to tell Oreepyah not to bring any more hogs or
+fruit and to take those back which he had sent. This advice as may be
+supposed did not produce the effect intended. Oreepyah appears to be a
+man of great spirit, and is highly respected by his countrymen. Among
+other visitors today was one of the men who had been to Lima in 1776.
+
+Saturday 8.
+
+Our plants had now increased to 252: as they were all kept on shore at
+the tent I augmented the guard there, though from the general conduct of
+the natives there did not appear the least occasion for so much caution.
+
+While I was at dinner Tinah desired I would permit a man to come down
+into the cabin whom he called his Taowah or priest; for I was obliged to
+keep a sentinel at the hatchway to prevent being incommoded at my meals
+with too much company; a restriction which pleased the chiefs who always
+asked leave for any particular person to be admitted of whom they wished
+me to take notice. The company of the priest brought on a religious
+conversation. He said their great God was called Oro; and that they had
+many others of less consequence. He asked me if I had a God? if he had a
+son? and who was his wife? I told them he had a son but no wife. Who was
+his father and mother? was the next question. I said he never had father
+or mother; at this they laughed exceedingly. You have a God then who
+never had a father or mother and has a child without a wife! Many other
+questions were asked which my little knowledge of the language did not
+enable me to answer.
+
+The weather was now fine again and a great number of people were come
+from other parts of the island. Tinah informed me that there was to be a
+heiva and a wrestling-match on shore, and that the performers waited for
+our attendance; we therefore set off with several of our friends and,
+about a quarter of a mile from the tents, we found a great concourse of
+people formed into a ring. As soon as we were seated a dancing heiva
+began, which was performed by two girls and four men: this lasted half an
+hour and consisted of wanton gestures and motions such as have been
+described in the account of former voyages. When the dance ended Tinah
+ordered a long piece of cloth to be brought; his wife Iddeah and myself
+were desired to hold the two first corners and, the remaining part being
+supported by many others, we carried it to the performers and gave it
+them. Several other chiefs made a like present or payment. The performers
+were strollers that travelled about the country as in Europe.
+
+After this the wrestling began and the place soon became a scene of riot
+and confusion. A party of the Arreoys also began to exercise a privilege,
+which it seems they are allowed, of taking from the women such of their
+clothes as they thought worth it; so that some of them were left little
+better than naked. One young woman who was attacked opposed them with all
+her strength and held fast her cloth, though they almost dragged her
+along the ground. Observing that I took notice of her she held out her
+hand and begged my assistance; and at my request she escaped being
+pillaged.
+
+Soon after a ring was again made but the wrestlers were so numerous
+within it that it was impossible to restore order. In the challenges they
+lay one hand upon their breast and, on the bending of the arm at the
+elbow, with the other hand they strike a very smart blow which, as the
+hand is kept hollow, creates a sound that may be heard at a considerable
+distance; and this they do so frequently and with such force that the
+flesh becomes exceedingly bruised and, the skin breaking, bleeds
+considerably. At this time the sound from so many resembled that of a
+number of people in a wood felling trees. This is the general challenge;
+but when any two combatants agree to a trial they present their hands
+forward, joining them only by the extremities of the fingers. They begin
+by watching to take an advantage; at length they close, seize each other
+by the hair and are most commonly parted before either receives a fall.
+Only one couple performed anything like the part of good wrestlers; and
+as they were an equal match this conflict lasted longer than any of the
+others; but they also were parted.
+
+Iddeah was the general umpire and she managed with so much address as to
+prevent any quarrelling, and there was no murmuring at her decisions. As
+her person was large she was very conspicuous in the circle. Tinah took
+no part in the management. Upon the whole this performance gave me a
+better opinion of their strength than of their skill or dexterity.
+
+Tuesday 11.
+
+For some time past Tinah had talked of going to the island of Tethuroa
+which lies eight or ten leagues north from Otaheite to fetch his mother;
+but I found I had only half understood him; for this morning he enquired
+when we were to sail there in the ship: however he seemed to feel no
+great disappointment at my not complying with his wish. Tethuroa he
+informed me is the property of his family. He likewise spoke to me about
+an island called Rooopow, the situation of which he described to be to
+the eastward of Otaheite four or five days sail, and that there were
+large animals upon it with eight legs. The truth of this account he very
+strenuously insisted upon and wished me to go thither with him. I was at
+a loss to know whether or not Tinah himself gave credit to this whimsical
+and fabulous account; for though they have credulity sufficient to
+believe anything, however improbable, they are at the same time so much
+addicted to that species of wit which we call humbug that it is
+frequently difficult to discover whether they are in jest or earnest.
+Their ideas of geography are very simple: they believe the world to be a
+fixed plane of great extent; and that the sun, moon, and stars are all in
+motion round it. I have been frequently asked by them if I have not been
+as far as the sun and moon; for they think we are such great travellers
+that scarce any undertaking is beyond our ability.
+
+Another island called Tappuhoi, situated likewise to the eastward, was
+described to me by Tinah, the inhabitants of which were said to be all
+warriors, and that the people of Otaheite did not dare to go there. He
+told me that very lately a canoe from Tappuhoi was at the island Maitea;
+that as soon as they landed they began to fight with the people of Maitea
+who killed them all except a young lad and a woman who have since been at
+Otaheite. I saw the boy but could get no information from him. It is most
+probable that this unfortunate visit of the canoe from Tappuhoi was not
+designed but occasioned by adverse winds which forced them so far from
+their own island, and that the people of Maitea began the attack, taking
+advantage of their superior numbers, on account of some former quarrel.
+
+Thursday 13.
+
+I had a large company to dine with me today. Some of my constant visitors
+had observed that we always drank His Majesty's health as soon as the
+cloth was removed; but they were by this time become so fond of wine that
+they would frequently remind me of the health in the middle of dinner by
+calling out King George Earee no Brittannee; and would banter me if the
+glass was not filled to the brim. Nothing could exceed the mirth and
+jollity of these people when they met on board.
+
+I was assured by Oediddee and several others that the vines planted at
+the island Huaheine by Captain Cook had succeeded and bore fruit; and
+that some of the other plants, both at Huaheine and at Oaitepeha, a
+district on the south-east part of Otaheite, had been preserved and were
+in a thriving state. I was likewise informed that there was a bull and a
+cow alive at Otaheite but on different parts of the island, the former at
+a place called Itteah, the latter at the district of Tettaha. All the
+rest were taken away or destroyed by the people of Eimeo. As Tettaha was
+at no great distance I determined to go thither myself the first
+opportunity, and make enquiries in hopes that the breed might still be
+preserved.
+
+I had much discourse with my guests about Omai: they confirmed to me that
+he died about thirty months after Captain Cook left the islands. Soon
+after Captain Cook's departure from Huaheine there were some disputes
+between the people of that island and those of Ulietea in which also the
+natives of Bolabola took a part. Omai, who was become of consequence from
+the possessing three or four muskets and some ammunition, was consulted
+on the occasion. Such was his opinion and assurances of success that a
+war was determined on and took place immediately. Victory soon followed
+through the means of those few arms and many of the Ulietea and Bolabola
+men were killed. In this contest their flints proved bad, or probably the
+locks of the muskets had got out of order: this they remedied by a
+lighted stick, one man presenting the musket and another with the burnt
+stick setting fire to the priming; without which contrivance their arms
+would have proved useless. This expedition it seems consumed all their
+ammunition. Peace was soon after established, but I did not understand
+that Omai had increased his possessions or his rank. Nevertheless I have
+reason to conclude that he was in some degree of favour with his
+countrymen from the general good character which they give of him. It
+appears that he always remembered England with kindness; for his accounts
+to his countrymen have been such as to give them not only a great idea of
+our power and consequence but of our friendship and goodwill towards him.
+
+Tyvarooah, the eldest of the New Zealand boys that were left with him,
+died a short time after Omai: about Coah, the youngest, I had always
+doubtful accounts till I came to Huaheine, where I learnt that he
+likewise was dead.
+
+
+CHAPTER 8.
+
+Expedition to Tettaba after a Heifer.
+Extraordinary domestic Arrangements.
+Tinah's Mother visits the Ship.
+A Sheep brought from Ulietea.
+Heavy Storm.
+Death of the Surgeon.
+Taowne and Toahroah Harbours examined.
+
+1788. November.
+
+After dinner I went on shore and, while I was at the tents, from having
+exposed myself too much in the sun, I was taken ill and continued in much
+pain for near an hour. This was soon known among the natives and I was
+exceedingly surprised to see Tinah and all the principal people, both men
+and women, collecting round me and offering their assistance. For this
+short illness I was made ample amends by the pleasure I received from the
+attention and appearance of affection in these kind people.
+
+Friday 14.
+
+This morning I had numberless enquiries after my health. The weather
+being fine I invited Tinah, Oreepyah, and Poeeno, to accompany me to
+Tettaha in order to enquire after the cow; and soon after sunrise we set
+off in the launch. Tettaha is nearly four leagues from Point Venus. On
+our arrival Tinah sent a man to give notice of our visit. The chief of
+the district, whose name was Teppahoo, did not appear, but sent a
+messenger to demand if I came only to see the cow or to take it away with
+me. In answer to this I sent assurances that I only desired to see it,
+and the chiefs who were with me spoke to the same effect. I was then
+desired to proceed in the boat farther along shore to the westward. In
+our way Tinah made me stop among some fishing canoes to purchase fish for
+him, which he eat raw with salt water for sauce. When we arrived at the
+landing-place a great number of people had collected, and soon after
+Teppahoo arrived. Oreepyah and I went with him about a quarter of a mile,
+when I was shown one of the most beautiful heifers I ever saw. I asked if
+they had any more but they all said there was no other than a bull at
+Itteah, as before mentioned. I could not refrain from expressing my
+displeasure at the destruction and the foolish separation of these fine
+animals. I had shared with Captain Cook in the trouble of this business
+and had been equally anxious for the success.
+
+The district of Tettaha is not so luxuriant and fruitful as the country
+about Matavai. As I saw nothing of consequence to detain me I made a
+present to Teppahoo and, after inviting him to visit me on board the
+ship, which he promised to do, I took leave. Tinah had remained all this
+time in the boat. I observed that no respect was shown to him at this
+place, nor was he able to procure a coconut or a breadfruit otherwise
+than by purchasing it. The heifer being here is a proof of this district
+not having been friendly to the people of Matavai and Oparre.
+
+In our way back, having to row against the wind, we stopped to refresh at
+Oparre, and it was eight o'clock by the time we arrived at the ship. I
+kept my fellow travellers on board to supper and they did not fail to
+remind me of the king's health.
+
+Monday 17.
+
+Our collection of breadfruit plants at the tents continued increasing.
+This morning I sent twelve on board, in pots, to discover where they
+would thrive the best, the air being more temperate on board the ship
+than on shore. While I was absent from the ship Teppahoo had been on
+board and left a hog as a present for me.
+
+After dinner today Tinah, who was my constant visitor, left the table
+sooner than usual. When he was gone Oreepyah, his brother, and Oedidde,
+told me a piece of scandal, which had been before hinted to me but which
+till now I had not heard of with certainty: this was that Iddeah, Tinah's
+wife, kept a gallant, who was a towtow, or servant, and the very person
+who always fed Tinah at dinner: and this was so far from being without
+Tinah's knowledge or consent that they said it was by his desire. They
+added many other circumstances and, as I appeared to doubt, they took
+several opportunities in the course of the day of mentioning it to other
+people, who all declared it was true.
+
+Tuesday 18.
+
+This afternoon I saw Teppahoo and invited him on board: before we parted
+I bargained with him for the heifer which he promised to bring in five
+days. My intention was that if I got the heifer I would endeavour to
+purchase the bull at Itteah: but if that could not be done then I could
+send the heifer as a present to the possessor of the bull, which might
+equally well answer my purpose.
+
+It has been mentioned that Tinah had a place in my cabin to keep those
+things which I gave him as being more secure on board than on shore. I
+had remarked lately that his hoard seemed to diminish the more I
+endeavoured to increase it: at length I discovered that Iddeah kept
+another hoard in the master's cabin, which she regularly enriched from
+her husband's whenever I made him a present, apprehending that I should
+cease giving when I saw Tinah's locker full. At his request I set the
+carpenters to work to make him a chest large enough for himself and wife
+to sleep on. Captain Cook had formerly given him such a chest but it had
+been taken from him by the Eimeo people.
+
+Friday 21.
+
+This forenoon I received a message from Teppahoo to acquaint me the
+heifer was brought to Matavai. I immediately went on shore and found that
+he had been as good as his word. The purchase money was paid, which
+consisted of a shirt, a hatchet, a spike nail, a knife, a pair of
+scissors, a gimlet, and file; to which was added a small quantity of
+loaf-sugar. Teppahoo appeared well pleased with his bargain; and I sent
+the heifer to Poeeno's residence near which was plenty of grass.
+
+In the afternoon I was invited to a heiva, the most extraordinary part of
+which was an oration, with some ceremonies in compliment to us. Twelve
+men were divided into four ranks, with two women in the front; behind
+them all stood a priest who made a speech which lasted ten minutes and
+which was listened to with some attention. During this the picture of
+Captain Cook, which had been brought for that purpose, was placed by my
+side. When the priest left off speaking a piece of white cloth was
+wrapped round the picture and another piece round me. The priest then
+spoke again for a short time, and an old man placed a piece of plaited
+coconut leaf at my feet; the same was done to Tinah, and one piece was
+put under the picture. After this the dancing began, which was in the
+same style that we had already seen.
+
+The head of the ship was the figure of a woman, and not ill carved. As we
+were painting the ship's upper works I directed this figure to be painted
+in colours, with which the islanders were much pleased. Not only the men
+but the women desired me to bring English women when I came again. Today
+Oedidde, thinking I was not convinced of the truth of what he had told me
+about Iddeah, mentioned the affair to the lady herself in my hearing, at
+which she laughed, but said he did ill to tell me of it. However it was
+evident she was not much offended for they were both very much diverted
+in discoursing upon the subject.
+
+I find it is not at all uncommon for brothers to have connection with the
+wives of each other, particularly elder brothers with the wives of their
+younger brothers, which is generally allowed and no offence taken: but if
+any person not belonging to the family endeavours at the same intimacy it
+is resented as an injury. Inclination seems to be the only binding law of
+marriage at Otaheite.
+
+As I purposed to get instruments on shore at Point Venus to make
+observations I desired Tinah to order a house to be brought there for me,
+which was done and fixed in half an hour, being only a light shed
+supported by posts.
+
+Monday 24.
+
+Today I bought a turtle that was caught on the reefs. As Tinah was going
+to leave me for a few days I had it dressed for his dinner. He told me
+that his mother, Oberreeroah, was arrived from the island Tethuroa, and
+begged that I would send for her in the morning and take care of her till
+he returned, which I willingly promised.
+
+Tuesday 25.
+
+This morning I sent a boat to Oparre, which returned in the afternoon
+with Oberreeroah and two women, her servants. As she was old and
+corpulent it was with difficulty that we helped her up the ship's side.
+As soon as she was in the ship she sat down on the gangway and, clasping
+my knees in her arms, expressed her pleasure at seeing me by a flood of
+tears. Her servants then produced three pieces of cloth which, with a
+large hog, some breadfruit, plantains, and coconuts, she had brought as a
+present. As she was fatigued by her journey she wished to remain on board
+all night, and I directed accommodations to be prepared, which was done
+with little trouble as nothing more was necessary than a mat and some
+cloth spread on the deck. She had with her a favourite cat, bred from one
+that had been given her by Captain Cook. She told me all the misfortunes
+that had befallen her son and friends since Captain Cook left Otaheite.
+All the accounts agree in some of the cattle being now alive at the
+island Eimeo: in the number they differ but that there were eight is the
+least account.
+
+Wednesday 26.
+
+In the morning, Oberreeroah being desirous to go on shore, I made her a
+present of several things, which she did not care to take with her then,
+but requested that I would keep them safe for her. Only Moannah and
+Poeeno dined with me today. They told me that Tinah and his brother
+Oreepyah were not on good terms together, and it was imagined that they
+would fight as soon as the ship was gone. I had observed a coolness
+between them, and had at times endeavoured to make them more cordial, but
+with very little effect. Their quarrel has arisen from a disagreement
+between their wives.
+
+In the afternoon a canoe from Ulietea arrived in which was an Earee or
+chief of that island, who is a nephew to Oberreeroah. He brought a sheep
+with him: the poor animal was infected with the mange and in very poor
+condition. The climate had not as far as I could judge altered the
+quality of the wool, with which he was well covered except a part about
+the shoulders. I imagine this animal to be the English ewe left by
+Captain Cook. The owner assured me that there were ten sheep at Huaheine;
+the truth of which I much doubted. I was surprised and rather mortified
+to find that he set so little value on this as to let me have it, at the
+first word, for a small adze. I sent it to be kept at Poeeno's with the
+heifer.
+
+Friday 28.
+
+Tinah and his wife returned to Matavai and, from appearances which I have
+no reason to mistrust, were sincerely glad to see me again after their
+short absence. They brought as usual a present of a hog and fruit. This
+morning there was an eclipse of the sun, but the weather was so cloudy
+that I had only an opportunity of observing the end of the eclipse, which
+was at 19 hours 43 minutes 53 seconds.
+
+Saturday 29.
+
+I sent a man to shear the ewe, by which a remedy could more easily be
+applied to cure the disease with which it was infected. The garden made
+near the tents was not in a prosperous condition: most of the melons and
+cucumbers were destroyed by insects; and the soil being sandy was not
+favourable to the other seeds. I therefore chose another spot of ground
+farther from the seaside and had an assortment of seeds sown.
+
+December. Monday 1.
+
+In the night the rudder of one of the boats was stolen from the tents. On
+landing in the morning neither Tinah nor any of his family came near me,
+being, I was informed, afraid of my displeasure. As the loss was not
+great I immediately sent to assure them that I had no anger except
+against the person who committed the theft. In consequence of this
+message Tinah and some of the other chiefs came to the tents and promised
+that they would exert themselves to discover the thief and get the rudder
+restored. This was the first theft of any consequence that had been
+committed since the tents were on shore, and my suspicions fell chiefly
+on the people who were here from some of the other islands. Tinah had
+just begun to build a house for himself and I promised that our
+carpenters should assist him. Whydooah, the youngest brother of Tinah,
+had lately been one of my constant visitors and seemed to have left off
+his former custom of getting drunk with the Ava. He was esteemed one of
+their best warriors; and I was told that in the quarrel with the people
+of Eimeo he killed Maheine the chief of that island.
+
+Friday 5.
+
+The weather for some time past had been very unsettled. This afternoon
+the wind blew fresh from the north-west, which occasioned the sea to
+break very high across the Dolphin bank; and in the night such a heavy
+broken sea came into the bay that we were obliged to batten all the
+hatchways down, and to keep everybody upon deck all night though the rain
+came down in torrents. The ship rolled in a most violent manner.
+
+Saturday 6.
+
+In the morning the wind increasing and, there being no possibility of
+putting to sea, we struck yards and topmasts and trusted to our anchors.
+The river swelled so much with the rain that the point of land on which
+the tents stood became an island; and to preserve the breadfruit plants
+from being endangered the people were obliged to cut a passage for the
+river through a part of the beach at a distance from the tents. The sea
+broke very high on the beach; nevertheless a canoe put off and to my
+surprise Tinah, his wife, and Moannah made their way good through the
+surf and came on board to see me. There was no other person in the canoe
+for the weather did not admit of useless passengers: each of them had a
+paddle which they managed with great activity and skill. These kind
+people embraced me with many tears and expressed their apprehensions for
+the safety of the ship. Towards noon however the sea abated considerably,
+but the wind continued to blow strong from the north-west. At sunset
+Iddeah went on shore but Tinah would remain with me the whole night.
+
+Sunday 7.
+
+The wind continued between the north and north-west but had so much
+moderated that I no longer considered our situation to be alarming. At
+noon Iddeah returned to the ship with a large hog and a supply of
+breadfruit and coconuts; and soon after she and Tinah left the ship,
+having exacted a promise from me that if the weather was moderate I would
+go on shore in the morning and visit their parents and sister who, they
+told me, had been much alarmed on our account. I received a visit
+likewise from Poeeno and his wife. This woman had always shown great
+regard for us; and now, on our meeting, before I could be aware of it,
+she began beating her head violently with a shark's tooth so that her
+face was covered with blood in an instant. I put a stop to this as soon
+as I could, and with the drying up of the blood her agitation subsided.
+This ceremony is frequently performed upon occasions either of joy or
+grief. Her husband said that if any accident happened to the ship I
+should live with him and that they would cut down trees and build me
+another ship.
+
+From this sample of the weather and the information of the natives I was
+convinced it would not be safe to continue in Matavai Bay much longer;
+and I determined to get everything ready for sailing as speedily as I
+could.
+
+Monday 8.
+
+The night proved moderate and in the morning I went on shore where I was
+received by Oberreeroah, and several other friends with great affection.
+
+The plants received no injury from the bad weather having been carefully
+covered from the spray of the sea: some were in a dormant state and
+others were striking out young shoots. Nelson thought that it was better
+to refrain a few days from taking them on board; I therefore consented to
+defer it. He was of opinion that the plants could be propagated from the
+roots only, and I directed some boxes to be filled as we could stow them
+where no others could be placed.
+
+Tuesday 9.
+
+This afternoon, in hauling the launch on shore to be repaired, many of
+the natives assisting, one of them, a fine boy about ten years old, was
+thrown down and a roller which was placed under the boat went over him.
+The surgeon being ill I sent off for his assistant. Fortunately no limb
+was broken nor did he receive any material injury. The surgeon had been a
+long time ill, the effect of intemperance and indolence. He had latterly
+scarce ever stirred out of his cabin but was not apprehended to be in a
+dangerous state; nevertheless this evening he appeared to be so much
+worse than usual that it was thought necessary to remove him to some
+place where he could have more air; but to no effect for he died in an
+hour afterwards. This unfortunate man drank very hard and was so averse
+to exercise that he never would be prevailed on to take half a dozen
+turns upon deck at a time in the course of the voyage.
+
+Wednesday 10.
+
+As I wished to bury the surgeon on shore I mentioned it to Tinah, who
+said there would be no objection but that it would be necessary to ask
+his father's consent first; which he undertook to do and immediately left
+me for that purpose. By this circumstance it appears that, though the
+eldest son of an Earee succeeds to the title and honours of the father as
+soon as he is born, yet a considerable portion of authority remains with
+the father even after the son is of age. When Tinah returned I went with
+him to the spot intended for the burial place, taking with us two men to
+dig the grave; but on our arrival I found the natives had already begun
+it. Tinah asked me if they were doing right? "There," says he, "the sun
+rises and there it sets." The idea that the grave should be east and west
+I imagine they learnt from the Spaniards, as the captain of one of their
+ships was buried at Oeitepeha in 1774. Certain it is they had not the
+information from anybody belonging to our ship; for I believe we should
+not have thought of it. The grave however was marked out very exactly. At
+four in the afternoon the body was interred: the chiefs and many of the
+natives came to see the ceremony and showed great attention during the
+service. Some of the chiefs were very inquisitive about what was to be
+done with the surgeon's cabin on account of apparitions. They said when a
+man died in Otaheite and was carried to the Tupapow that as soon as night
+came he was surrounded by spirits, and if any person went there by
+himself they would devour him: therefore they said that not less than two
+people together should go into the surgeon's cabin for some time. I did
+not endeavour to dissuade them from this belief otherwise than by
+laughing and letting them know that we had no such apprehensions.
+
+In the afternoon the effects of the deceased were disposed of and I
+appointed Mr. Thomas Denman Ledward the surgeon's mate to do duty as
+surgeon.
+
+Friday 12.
+
+I went in a boat to examine the harbours about Oparre and found two
+formed by the reefs. The westernmost is the most convenient for sailing
+in or out but is not well sheltered from a north-west wind or sea. This
+harbour is called by the natives Taowne: it is about a league and a half
+distant from Point Venus and may be known by a remarkable mountain,
+called by the natives Wawry, which bears south-south-east from the
+entrance.
+
+The easternmost harbour is called Toahroah. It is small but as secure as
+a reef harbour can well be. It is about three miles distant from Point
+Venus. The chief objection to this harbour is the difficulty of getting
+out with the common tradewind, the entrance being on the east side, not
+more than one hundred yards wide and the depth without inconvenient for
+warping. On the south side of the entrance is a Morai: the reef side is
+to be kept on board and a lookout to be kept from aloft, whence the shoal
+water is better discerned than from the deck.
+
+Sunday 14.
+
+This forenoon we performed divine service. Many of the principal natives
+attended and behaved with great decency. Some of the women at one time
+betrayed an inclination to laugh at our general responses; but on my
+looking at them they appeared much ashamed. After the service I was asked
+if no offering was to be made for the Eatua to eat.
+
+The weather had been fair all the last week and at this time appeared
+quite settled, so that I was under no apprehensions of danger from
+continuing a little longer in Matavai bay.
+
+
+CHAPTER 9.
+
+A Walk into the Country.
+The Peeah Roah.
+Prevailed on by the Kindness of the Chiefs to defer our Departure.
+Breadfruit Plants collected.
+Move the Ship to Toahroah Harbour.
+Fishing.
+Three of the Ship's Company desert.
+Indiscretion of our People on Shore.
+Instances of Jealousy.
+Mourning.
+Bull brought to Oparre by a Prophet.
+The Deserters recovered.
+Tinah proposes to visit England.
+
+1788. December. Wednesday 17.
+
+This morning I took a walk into the country accompanied by Nelson and my
+old friend Moannah. The breadth of the border of low land before we
+arrived at the foot of the hills was near three miles. This part of our
+journey was through a delightful country, well covered with breadfruit
+and coconut-trees, and strewed with houses in which were swarms of
+children. We then proceeded along a valley, still among houses, with
+plantations of yams, tarro, the cloth-plant, and their favourite root the
+Ava: there were breadfruit trees on the sides of the hills which were
+dwarfs in comparison of those on the low land. Our walk was very much
+interrupted by a river, the course of which was so serpentine that we had
+to cross it several times, being carried over on men's shoulders.
+
+On arriving at a Morai I saw a number of the natives collected and was
+informed that the priests were performing their devotions. Sixteen men
+were sitting on their heels; in the front was a pole covered with a
+plaited coconut branch, and before each of the men there was a number of
+small pieces of the same leaf plaited, which they call Hahyree, and each
+had likewise a piece round his wrist. One who appeared to be the chief
+priest prayed aloud, and was answered by all the rest together: after a
+few short sentences and responses they rose and each carried an Hahyree,
+which they placed at the foot of the pole and returned to prayer: this
+was repeated till all the Hahyree were delivered and then the ceremony
+ended. I must not forget to mention that they had placed near the pole an
+offering of plantains and breadfruit, which they left for the Eatua. They
+very kindly asked us to partake of a roasted hog that had been prepared
+for them whilst they were praying; but as I wished to make the most of
+the morning before the sun was too high I declined their offer, and
+Moannah bespoke refreshments to be ready for us when we returned.
+
+We continued our walk up the valley, which became very narrow, and had
+advanced a considerable way beyond all the houses and plantations when we
+were suddenly stopped by a cascade that fell into the river from a height
+of above 200 feet: the fall at this time was not great but in the heavy
+rains must be considerable. The natives look upon this as the most
+wonderful sight in the island. The fall of water is the least curious
+part; the cliff over which it comes is perpendicular, forming an
+appearance as if supported by square pillars of stone, and with a
+regularity that is surprising. Underneath is a pool eight or nine feet
+deep into which the water falls; and in this place all the natives make a
+point of bathing once in their lives, probably from some religious idea.
+
+The hills here approach each other within a few yards and are well
+covered with wood. As the road appeared difficult I did not care to
+proceed towards the mountain. I cannot with certainty say how far this
+curious precipice is from the bay, but think in the road by which we went
+it cannot be less than seven miles. It is called Peeah Roah.
+
+In our return we found a young pig prepared for us and we made a hearty
+meal. We dined in the house of an old acquaintance of Nelson's for whom
+he had in 1777 planted the two shaddock plants formerly mentioned which
+he had brought from the Friendly Islands. These we had the satisfaction
+to see were grown to fine trees and full of fruit.
+
+In their plantations they do not take much pains except with the Ava and
+the Cloth-plant, both of which they are careful to keep clear of weeds.
+Many of the plantations of the cloth-plant were fenced with stone and
+surrounded with a ditch. The yams and plantains are mostly on the higher
+grounds. As soon as we had finished our dinner we returned towards the
+ship. I was much delighted in this walk with the number of children that
+I saw in every part of the country: they are very handsome and sprightly
+and full of antic tricks. They have many diversions that are common with
+the boys in England such as flying kites, cats cradle, swinging, dancing
+or jumping in a rope, walking upon stilts and wrestling.
+
+Friday 19.
+
+The wind today blew fresh but continued regular from the east and
+east-south-east. We had likewise much rain and a long swell set into the
+bay. I had not yet determined whether, on leaving Matavai bay, I would go
+to the island Eimeo or to the harbour of Toahroah near Oparre: this
+uncertainty made Tinah and the rest of my friends very anxious; and they
+appeared much distressed on my desiring them this afternoon to send on
+board all the things which they wished to have repaired by the forge
+without delay, that what they wanted might be done before the ship left
+Matavai, which I told them would be in a few days. They very earnestly
+entreated I would stay one month longer. I represented this as impossible
+and asked Tinah if he would not go with me to Eimeo; but he said that
+notwithstanding my protection he was certain the Eimeo people would watch
+for an opportunity to kill him. He remained on board with me all night
+but his wife went on shore and returned early in the morning, bringing
+with her some axes and other things that were in need of repair.
+
+Saturday 20.
+
+When I went on shore I found Otow, Oberree-roah, Moannah, and several
+others in great tribulation at the thoughts that we were so soon to leave
+them. All the people of Matavai I saw were much concerned at my intention
+of going to Eimeo, and took every opportunity to prejudice me against the
+people of that island; to which I paid very little attention as their
+motive was obvious.
+
+Sunday 21.
+
+Their expressions of friendship and affection for me however I could not
+disregard, as I had no doubt of their being genuine and unaffected, and I
+felt my unwillingness to leave these kind people so much increased that
+the next day I sent the master in the launch to reexamine the depth of
+water between this bay and Toahroah harbour. He returned in the evening
+and acquainted me that he found a good bottom with not less than sixteen
+fathoms depth all the way. The harbour of Toahroah appearing every way
+safe I determined to get the ship there as speedily as possible, and I
+immediately made my intention public, which occasioned great rejoicing.
+
+Wednesday 24.
+
+This day we took the plants on board, being 774 pots, all in a healthy
+state; for whenever any plant had an unfavourable appearance it was
+replaced by another. The number of those rejected was 302, of which not
+one in ten but was found to be growing at the root.
+
+The natives reckon eight kinds of the breadfruit tree, each of which they
+distinguish by a different name. 1. Patteah. 2. Eroroo. 3. Awanna. 4.
+Mi-re. 5. Oree. 6. Powerro. 7. Appeere. 8. Rowdeeah. In the first,
+fourth, and eighth class the leaf differs from the rest; the fourth is
+more sinuated; the eighth has a large broad leaf not at all sinuated. The
+difference of the fruit is principally in the first and eighth class. In
+the first the fruit is rather larger and more of an oblong form: in the
+eighth it is round and not above half the size of the others. I enquired
+if plants could be produced from the seed and was told they could not but
+that they must be taken from the root. The plants are best collected
+after wet weather, at which time the earth balls round the roots and they
+are not liable to suffer by being moved.
+
+The most common method of dividing time at Otaheite is by moons; but they
+likewise make a division of the year into six parts, each of which is
+distinguished by the name of the kind of breadfruit then in season. In
+this division they keep a small interval called Tawa in which they do not
+use the breadfruit. This is about the end of February when the fruit is
+not in perfection; but there is no part of the year in which the trees
+are entirely bare.
+
+Thursday 25.
+
+At daylight we unmoored and I sent the tents in the launch to Oparre with
+directions that, after landing them, the launch should meet the ship in
+the entrance of Toahroah harbour to show the safest part of the channel.
+At half-past ten we got the ship under sail and ran down under top-sails:
+when we were near the launch it fell calm and the ship shot past her. We
+immediately let the anchor go but to our great surprise we found the ship
+was aground forwards. She had run on so easy that we had not perceived it
+at the time. This accident occasioned us much trouble as we were obliged
+to send anchors out astern to get the ship afloat: in doing this one of
+the cables swept a rock and was not got clear again without much
+difficulty. When the ship was moored Point Venus bore north 46 degrees
+east. The east point of the harbour north 65 degrees east one-quarter of
+a mile. Our distance from the shore half a cable's length; depth of water
+8 1/2 fathoms.
+
+Friday 26.
+
+The next morning on my landing I was welcomed by all the principal
+people; I may say by the whole crowd, and congratulated on the safety of
+the ship. Tinah showed me a house near the waterside abreast the ship,
+which he desired I would make use of and which was large enough for all
+our purposes. He and his brother Oreepyah then desired I would stay and
+receive a formal address and present which they called Otee. To this I
+assented and a stool was brought for me to sit on. They then left me with
+Moannah and in a short time I saw Tinah returning with about twenty men
+who all made a stop at some distance, and a priest said a short prayer to
+the Eatua, to which the rest made reply. A man was then sent to me three
+several times, at each time bringing me a small pig and the stem of a
+plantain leaf. The first they told me was for the God of Brittannee, the
+next for King George, and the last for myself. Moannah then got up and,
+without being dictated to, made an oration for me; the purport of which I
+understood to be that I received their offering with thanks; that we were
+good people and friends; and therefore he exhorted them to commit no
+thefts: he told them to bring their pigs, coconuts, and breadfruit, and
+they would receive good things in return; that we took nothing without
+their consent; and finally that every man was to quit the place (the
+house we occupied) at night; for if they made any visit in the dark they
+would be killed. With this speech the ceremony ended.
+
+I found this a delightful situation and in every respect convenient. The
+ship was perfectly sheltered by the reefs in smooth water and close to a
+fine beach without the least surf. A small river with very good water
+runs into the sea about the middle of the harbour. I gave directions for
+the plants to be landed and the same party to be with them as at Matavai.
+Tinah fixed his dwelling close to our station.
+
+Monday 29.
+
+Some of the natives took advantage of the butcher's negligence and stole
+his cleaver. I complained of this to the chiefs who were on board and
+they promised that they would endeavour to recover it; but an article so
+valuable as this was to the natives I had no great expectation of seeing
+restored.
+
+The ship continued to be supplied by the natives as usual. Coconuts were
+in such plenty that I believe not a pint of water was drunk on board the
+ship in the twenty-four hours. Breadfruit began to be scarce though we
+purchased without difficulty a sufficient quantity for our consumption:
+there was however another harvest approaching which they expected would
+be fit for use in five or six weeks. The better kind of plantains also
+were become scarce; but a kind which they call vayhee were in great
+plenty. This fruit does not hang on the trees like the other kinds but
+grows upon an upright stalk of considerable strength and substance.
+Though this plantain is inferior in quality to most of the others it
+affords great subsistence to the natives. We received almost every day
+presents of fish, chiefly dolphin and albacore, and a few small rock
+fish. Their fishing is mostly in the night when they make strong lights
+on the reefs which attract the fish to them. Sometimes in fine weather
+the canoes are out in such numbers that the whole sea appears
+illuminated. In the canoes they fish with hook and line and on the reefs
+they struck the fish with a spear. Some likewise carry out small nets
+which are managed by two men. In the daytime their fishing canoes go
+without the reefs, sometimes to a considerable distance, where they fish
+with rods and lines and catch bonetas and other fish. Whenever there is a
+show of fish a fleet of canoes immediately proceeds to sea. Their hooks
+being bright are used without bait in the manner of our artificial flies.
+Their rods are made of bamboo; but when there are any very large fish
+they make use of an outrigger over the fore part of the canoe, about
+twenty-five feet in length, which has two prongs at the extremity, to
+each of which is fastened a hook and line; and when a fish takes the hook
+it is raised by ropes managed by two men in the stern of the canoe.
+
+January 1789. Thursday 1.
+
+Contrary to my expectation Tinah this afternoon brought on board the
+cleaver that had been stolen. The thief had taken it to Attahooroo, and
+Tinah told me, which I could easily believe, that it was given up with
+reluctance.
+
+Friday 2.
+
+The next morning I offered Tinah a present of axes and other things but,
+as he suspected this was meant by way of return for getting the cleaver
+restored, he would not be prevailed with to accept a single article.
+
+I had constantly the company of Tinah, his wife, and some of his
+relations; but the royal children, though so near us, never came in sight
+of the ship. The river separated them from the place occupied by our
+people on shore and, for fear of giving alarm or offence, I gave strict
+orders that no one should attempt to go near their place of residence.
+
+Monday 5.
+
+At the relief of the watch at four o'clock this morning the small cutter
+was missing. I was immediately informed of it and mustered the ship's
+company, when it appeared that three men were absent: Charles Churchill,
+the ship's corporal and two of the seamen, William Musprat and John
+Millward, the latter of whom had been sentinel from twelve to two in the
+morning. They had taken with them eight stand of arms and ammunition; but
+what their plan was, or which way they had gone, no one on board seemed
+to have the least knowledge. I went on shore to the chiefs and soon
+received information that the boat was at Matavai; and that the deserters
+had departed in a sailing canoe for the island Tethuroa. On this
+intelligence I sent the master to Matavai to search for the small cutter,
+and one of the chiefs went with him; but before they had got halfway they
+met the boat with five of the natives who were bringing her back to the
+ship. This service rendered me by the people of Matavai pleased me much
+and I rewarded the men accordingly.
+
+I told Tinah and the other chiefs that I expected they would get the
+deserters brought back; for that I was determined not to leave Otaheite
+without them. They assured me that they would do everything in their
+power to have them taken and it was agreed that Oreepyah and Moannah
+should depart the next morning for Tethuroa. Oreepyah enquired if they
+had pocket pistols "for," said he, "though we may surprise and seize them
+before they can make use of their muskets, yet if they have pistols they
+may do mischief, even while they are held." I quietened these
+apprehensions by assuring them that the deserters had no pistols with
+them.
+
+Tuesday 6.
+
+At daylight Oreepyah and Moannah set off in two canoes for Tethuroa, but
+the weather became so boisterous that they were obliged to return in the
+forenoon, and I was happy to see them get safe in as the sea ran very
+high without the harbour. From the first of this month the weather and
+winds had been much unsettled with a great deal of rain. Our former
+station at Matavai appeared not at all safe, the sea at times breaking
+high over the Dolphin bank and making a great swell in the bay. Oreepyah
+and Moannah both promised me that they would sail again as soon as the
+weather should be fine.
+
+Friday 9.
+
+The wind continued to blow strong at sea though in the harbour we had at
+times but light breezes. Poeeno, from Matavai, came to see me today: he
+said he was apprehensive that I was displeased with him on account of our
+deserters having been carried to Tethuroa by a canoe from Matavai. This
+he declared had been done before he heard of it; and that the only
+service in his power he had not neglected to do for me, which was the
+sending our boat back. As this was really an act of friendship I received
+him with great cordiality; and he assured me that there could be no doubt
+from the directions Tinah had given of the deserters being brought to the
+ship as soon as the weather would admit canoes to go after them.
+
+Saturday 10.
+
+One of the officers this morning on shore inadvertently plucked a branch
+from a tree called Tutuee, that bears the oil nut, which was growing at a
+Morai. On entering with it into the house occupied by our people all the
+natives, both men and women, immediately went away. When I went on shore
+I found this branch tied to one of the posts of the house, although the
+effect it had on the natives was known. I was much displeased at this
+piece of wantonness and ordered the branch to be taken away; but the
+natives notwithstanding would not come near the place. They said the
+house was taboo, which I understand to signify interdicted, and that none
+of them might approach it till the taboo was taken off, which could only
+be done by Tinah. To take anything away from a Morai is regarded as a
+kind of sacrilege and, they believe, gives great offence to the Eatua. At
+my request Tinah took off the taboo, but not before the afternoon. This
+was performed by an offering of a plantain leaf at the Morai, and a
+prayer made to the Eatua. After this ceremony the house was resorted to
+by the natives as usual.
+
+I had not yet given up the hope of obtaining the bull from Itteah, though
+I had hitherto received no satisfactory answer to the messages which
+Tinah had sent at my desire: I therefore spoke to Poeeno who undertook to
+negotiate this business, and I commissioned him to make very liberal
+offers. He left me after dinner to return to Matavai. In the evening a
+messenger arrived from him to acquaint me that, in his absence, the sheep
+which I had trusted to his care had been killed by a dog; and that he had
+sent the culprit, hoping that I would kill him for the offence he had
+committed. This poor sheep had been so much diseased that I could not
+help suspecting he died without the dog's assistance, and that the story
+of the dog was invented to prevent my attributing it to want of care.
+This doubt did not appear in my answer; as for the dog I told the
+messenger to do with him what he pleased.
+
+Tuesday 13.
+
+This morning, the weather being more moderate than it had been for some
+days past, Oreepyah sailed with two canoes for Tethuroa.
+
+Wednesday 14.
+
+Some business prevented Moannah from accompanying him but he followed the
+next day with two other canoes. The wood that we had got at Matavai being
+expended I applied to Tinah, who sent three trees down to the waterside
+before night, which when cut up made a good launch load.
+
+I saw two instances of jealousy today one of which had nearly produced
+fatal consequences. A man was detected with a married woman by the
+husband, who stabbed him in the belly with a knife: fortunately the
+intestines escaped and the wound did not prove dangerous. The other
+instance was a girl, who had constantly lived with my coxswain, beating
+another girl that she discovered to have been too intimate with him.
+
+Friday 16.
+
+In walking today with Tinah near a tupapow I was surprised by a sudden
+outcry of grief. As I expressed a desire to see the distressed person
+Tinah took me to the place where we found a number of women, one of whom
+was the mother of a young female child that lay dead. On seeing us their
+mourning not only immediately ceased, but to my astonishment they all
+burst into an immoderate fit of laughter, and while we remained appeared
+much diverted with our visit. I told Tinah the woman had no sorrow for
+her child otherwise her grief would not have so easily subsided; on which
+he jocosely told her to cry again: they did not however resume their
+mourning in our presence. This strange behaviour would incline us to
+think them hardhearted and unfeeling, did we not know that they are fond
+parents and in general very affectionate: it is therefore to be ascribed
+to their extreme levity of disposition; and it is probable that death
+does not appear to them with so many terrors as it does to people of a
+more serious cast.
+
+Sunday 18.
+
+I received a message from Poeeno to acquaint me that he had been
+successful in his negotiation for the bull, which he had driven part of
+the way by land, but could not get farther on account of the rivers and
+therefore desired a boat should be sent for him. I accordingly ordered
+the launch to be got ready and at two o'clock the next morning Mr. Fryer,
+the master, set off in her.
+
+Monday 19.
+
+In the afternoon the launch returned with the bull and my friend Poeeno.
+For the night I directed that the bull should remain at Oparre and the
+next day he was taken to the cow at Matavai.
+
+Wednesday 21.
+
+Today Poeeno brought to me the person from whom he had the bull to
+receive the stipulated payment, which was one of every article of traffic
+that I had in my possession. This man, whose name was Oweevee, they told
+me was inspired by a divine spirit; and that in all matters of
+consequence he was consulted, for that he conversed with the Eatua. It
+was, they said, the Eatua that ordered him to demand the bull from Tinah,
+which not to have complied with would have been the height of impiety. I
+endeavoured to convince them of the roguery of this man, thinking I had a
+fair argument to prove it by his selling that which the Eatua had ordered
+him to keep; but here I was easily defeated for it seems the Eatua told
+him to sell me the beast. This being the case I said I would not give the
+animals to any person; that they were now mine and that I would leave
+them under the protection of Poeeno and Tinah who I hoped would take care
+of them for me till I returned. They both entered into my views and
+promised the animals should be attended to, and told me that, while they
+were considered as my property, no one would attempt to take them away.
+
+Thursday 22.
+
+This afternoon I received a message from Teppahoo to inform me that our
+deserters had passed this harbour and were at Tettaha, about five miles
+distant. I ordered the cutter to be got ready, and a little before sunset
+left the ship, taking Oedidee with me. By his advice I landed at some
+distance from the place where the deserters were but, thinking it
+necessary to have the boat within call, and Oedidee assuring me that
+there was safe landing farther on, I directed the boat to proceed along
+shore whilst Oedidee and I walked along the beach. The night was very
+dark and windy and the shore being rocky I soon lost sight of the boat. A
+few of the natives had joined us in our walk and from their manner I had
+reason to suspect them of a design to close upon us, with an intention no
+doubt to plunder: I was provided with pocket-pistols and on producing one
+they left us. Oedidee was so much alarmed that I could scarce prevail on
+him to proceed. When we arrived at Teppahoo's house we were very kindly
+received by him and his wife. The cutter was arrived but there being a
+very high surf she could not come within a hundred yards of the shore.
+
+The deserters I was informed were in a house close to us, and I imagined
+there would be no great difficulty in securing them with the assistance
+of the natives. They had however heard of my arrival; and when I was near
+the house they came out without their arms and delivered themselves up. I
+sent directions off to the boat for one of my people to come on shore and
+for the boat to return to the place where I had landed. My next business
+was to secure the arms, which I delivered to Teppahoo to take charge of
+for the night. One musket and two bayonets were missing, which they said
+were lost by the canoe in which they came from Tethuroa having overset. I
+then took leave of Teppahoo who presented us with a plentiful supply of
+provisions, and we proceeded with the deserters towards the boat but, as
+the wind had increased and it rained hard, I determined to remain on
+shore till the morning; and having found shelter for the people we passed
+the remainder of the night without accident. At daylight I sent for the
+arms and we returned to the ship.
+
+Friday 23.
+
+I learnt from the deserters that at Tethuroa they had seen Oreepyah and
+Moannah, who had made an attempt to secure them. They said it was their
+intention to have returned to the ship; and it is probable that they were
+so much harassed by the natives watching for an opportunity to surprise
+them that they might wish to have the merit of returning of their own
+accord, to avoid the disgrace of being seized and brought back. At the
+time they delivered themselves up to me it was not in their power to have
+made resistance, their ammunition having been spoiled by the wet.
+
+In consequence of my having been kept all night from the ship by the
+tempestuous weather the timekeeper went down at 10 hours 5 minutes 36
+seconds. Its rate previous to this was 1 second, 7 losing in 24 hours,
+and its error from the mean time at Greenwich was 7 minutes 29 seconds, 2
+too slow. I set it going again by a common watch, corrected by
+observations, and endeavoured to make the error the same as if it had not
+stopped; but being over cautious made me tedious in setting it in motion,
+and increased the error from mean time at Greenwich. The rate of going I
+did not find to have altered.
+
+At dinner Tinah congratulated me on having recovered my men, but
+expressed some concern that they had not been brought by Oreepyah and
+Moannah, lest I should imagine they had not done everything in their
+power. To this I replied that I was perfectly satisfied of their good
+intentions to serve me, and that I considered myself under great
+obligations to them for the trouble they had been at on my account. I
+learnt afterwards that they had actually seized and bound the deserters
+but had been prevailed upon, by fair promises of their returning
+peaceably to the ship, to let them loose: the deserters however, finding
+an opportunity to get possession of their arms, again set the natives at
+defiance.
+
+Friday 30.
+
+This afternoon I punished one of the seamen, Isaac Martin, with nineteen
+lashes for striking an Indian. This was a transgression of so serious a
+nature and such a direct violation of my orders that I would on no
+account be prevailed on to forgive it, though great intercession was made
+by some of the chiefs.
+
+Oreepyah and Moannah were not yet returned from Tethuroa. This place is
+resorted to by the principal people of this part of Otaheite at
+particular seasons when fish are in great plenty there. It was described
+to me to be a group of small keys surrounded by a reef: their produce is
+chiefly coconuts and plantains. During the season breadfruit and other
+provisions are daily carried over from Otaheite. Not less than a hundred
+sail of canoes were at Tethuroa when our deserters were there.
+
+Teppahoo and his wife were become my constant visitors: he had for some
+time past been ill, and had made Oparre his place of residence for the
+benefit of our surgeon's advice and assistance. At this time he
+complained of a hoarseness and sore throat. Mr. Ledward, on examining
+him, discovered there had been two holes in the roof of his mouth which,
+though healed, had the appearance of having been large: the adjacent
+parts appeared sound, yet the surgeon was of opinion that they were
+cancerous and would in the end occasion his death.
+
+Saturday 31.
+
+This morning I ordered all the chests to be taken on shore, and the
+inside of the ship to be washed with boiling water to kill the
+cockroaches. We were constantly obliged to be at great pains to keep the
+ship clear of vermin on account of the plants. By the help of traps and
+good cats we were freed from rats and mice. When I was at Otaheite with
+Captain Cook there were great numbers of rats about all the houses, and
+so tame that they flocked round the people at their meals for the offals
+which were commonly thrown to them; but at this time we scarce ever saw a
+rat which must be attributed to the industry of a breed of cats left here
+by European ships.
+
+After breakfast I walked with Tinah to Matavai to see the cattle and the
+gardens. Tinah had already taken so large a dose of the Ava that he was
+perfectly stupefied. Iddeah however was with us, and she is one of the
+most intelligent persons I met with at Otaheite. We went first to
+Poeeno's house and saw the bull and cow together in a very fine pasture.
+I was informed that the cow had taken the bull; so that if no untoward
+accident happens there is a fair chance of the breed being established.
+In the garden near Poeeno's house many things had failed. The Indian corn
+was in a fine state and I have no doubt but they will cultivate it all
+over the country. A fig-tree was in a very thriving way, as were two
+vines, a pineapple plant, and some slips of a shaddock-tree. From this
+place we walked to the garden at Point Venus, but I had the mortification
+to find almost everything there destroyed by the hogs. Some underground
+peas and Indian corn had escaped, and likewise the caliloo green and ocra
+of Jamaica.
+
+We returned to the ship, and after dinner I was not a little surprised to
+hear Tinah seriously propose that he and his wife should go with me to
+England. He said he would only take two servants; that he much wished to
+see King George who he was sure would be glad to see him. Tinah and many
+of his countrymen were become extremely eager to get a knowledge of other
+countries, and were continually enquiring about the situations of the
+islands which we told them of in these seas. To quiet his importunity I
+was obliged to promise that I would ask the king's permission to carry
+them to England if I came again; that then I should be in a larger ship
+an could have accommodations properly fitted up. I was sorry to find that
+Tinah was apprehensive he should be attacked by his enemies as soon as
+our ship left Otaheite, and that if they joined they would be too
+powerful for him. The illness of Teppahoo, with whom he was on good
+terms, gave him much uneasiness, Teppahoo's wife being a sister of Otow's
+and aunt to Tinah. They have no children as has been before related, and
+if Teppahoo were to die he would be succeeded as Earee of the district of
+Tettaha by his brother who is an enemy to Tinah. I have on every occasion
+endeavoured to make the principal people believe that we should return
+again to Otaheite and that we should revenge any injury done in our
+absence to the people of Matavai and Oparre.
+
+The wife of Oedidee is likewise an aunt to Tinah, and sister to Otow. His
+native place is Ulietea, where he has some property, but which I imagine
+is not of such consequence to him as the countenance of the chiefs with
+whom he is connected at Otaheite.
+
+
+CHAPTER 10.
+
+The Ship's Cable cut in the Night.
+Coolness with the Chiefs on that Account.
+Visit to an old Lady.
+Disturbance at a Heiva.
+Tinah's Hospitality.
+A Thief taken and punished.
+Preparations for sailing.
+
+1789. February. Tuesday 3.
+
+I was present this afternoon at a wrestling match where a young man, by
+an unlucky fall, put his arm out of joint at the elbow: three stout men
+immediately took hold of him and, two of them fixing their feet against
+his ribs, replaced it. I had sent for our surgeon but before he arrived
+all was well, except a small swelling of the muscles in consequence of
+the strain. I enquired what they would have done if the bone had been
+broken and, to show me their practice, they got a number of sticks and
+placed round a man's arm, which they bound with cord. That they have
+considerable skill in surgery is not to be doubted. I have before
+mentioned an instance of an amputated arm being perfectly healed and
+which had every appearance of having been treated with great propriety.
+
+The part of the beach nearest the ship was become the general place of
+resort towards the close of the day. An hour before sunset the
+inhabitants began to collect, and here they amused themselves with
+exercising the lance, dancing, and various kinds of merriment, till
+nearly dark, when they retired to their homes. Of this cheerful scene we
+were spectators and partakers every fine evening.
+
+Friday 6.
+
+An occurrence happened today that gave me great concern, not only on
+account of the danger with which the ship had been threatened, but as it
+tended greatly to diminish the confidence and good understanding which
+had hitherto been constantly preserved between us and the natives. The
+wind had blown fresh in the night, and at daylight we discovered that the
+cable by which the ship rode had been cut near the water's edge in such a
+manner that only one strand remained whole. While we were securing the
+ship Tinah came on board. I could not but believe he was perfectly
+innocent of the transaction; nevertheless I spoke to him in a very
+peremptory manner, and insisted upon his discovering and bringing to me
+the offender. I was wholly at a loss how to account for this malicious
+act. My suspicions fell chiefly, I may say wholly, on the strangers that
+came to us from other parts of the island; for we had on every occasion
+received such unreserved and unaffected marks of goodwill from the people
+of Matavai and Oparre that in my own mind I entirely acquitted them. The
+anger which I expressed however created so much alarm that old Otow and
+his wife (the father and mother of Tinah) immediately quitted Oparre, and
+retired to the mountains in the midst of heavy rain, as did Teppahoo and
+his family. Tinah and Iddeah remained and expostulated with me on the
+unreasonableness of my anger against them. He said that he would exert
+his utmost endeavours to discover the guilty person, but it might
+possibly not be in his power to get him delivered up, which would be the
+case if he was either of Tiarraboo, Attahooroo, or of the island Eimeo.
+That the attempt might have been made as much out of enmity to the people
+of Matavai and Oparre as to me, everyone knowing the regard I had for
+them, and that I had declared I would protect them against their enemies.
+All this I was inclined to believe, but I did not think proper to appear
+perfectly satisfied lest Tinah, who was naturally very indolent, should
+be remiss in his endeavours to detect the offender. To guard as much as
+possible against future attempts of this kind I directed a stage to be
+built on the forecastle so that the cables should be more directly under
+the eye of the sentinel; and I likewise gave orders that one of the
+midshipman should keep watch forward.
+
+In the afternoon Oreepyah returned from Tethuroa. He told me that Moannah
+and himself had narrowly escaped being lost in the bad weather and that
+Moannah had been obliged to take shelter at Eimeo. Several canoes had
+been lost lately in their passage to or from Tethuroa. The oversetting of
+their canoes is not the only risk they have to encounter, but is
+productive of another danger more dreadful; for at such times many become
+a prey to the sharks which are very numerous in these seas. I was
+informed likewise that they were sometimes attacked by a fish which by
+their description I imagine to be the barracoota, as they attribute to it
+the same propensity.
+
+Saturday passed without my seeing anything of Tinah the whole day.
+
+Sunday 8.
+
+The next morning he and Iddeah came to me and assured me that they had
+made the strictest enquiries concerning the injury intended us but had
+not been able to discover any circumstance which could lead them to
+suspect who were concerned in it. This was not at all satisfactory and I
+behaved towards them with great coolness, at which they were much
+distressed, and Iddeah at length gave vent to her sorrow by tears. I
+could no longer keep up the appearance of mistrusting them, but I
+earnestly recommended to them, as they valued the King of England's
+friendship, that they would exert their utmost endeavours to find out the
+offenders, which they faithfully promised. Our reconciliation accordingly
+took place and messengers were sent to acquaint Otow and Teppahoo, and to
+invite them to return.
+
+It has since occurred to me that this attempt to cut the ship adrift was
+most probably the act of some of our own people; whose purpose of
+remaining at Otaheite might have been effectually answered without danger
+if the ship had been driven on shore. At the time I entertained not the
+least thought of this kind, nor did the possibility of it enter into my
+ideas, having no suspicion that so general an inclination or so strong an
+attachment to these islands could prevail among my people as to induce
+them to abandon every prospect of returning to their native country.
+
+A messenger came to me this afternoon from the Earee of Tiarrabou, the
+south-east division of Otaheite, with an invitation for me to visit him.
+I excused myself on account of the distance and, at Tinah's request, sent
+back by the messenger a handsome present which I hope Tinah will get the
+credit of. I observed with much satisfaction that a great part of what
+Tinah had received from me he had distributed; to some out of friendship
+and esteem, and to others from motives of political civility.
+
+Tuesday 10.
+
+Teppahoo and his family left us today to go to Tettaha, where a grand
+heiva was to be performed, at which their presence was required.
+
+Wednesday 11.
+
+A small party of heiva people passed through Oparre this morning in their
+way to Tettaha, where they were going by appointment. They had the
+civility to send me word that if I chose they would stay to perform a
+short heiva before me; and I immediately attended. It began by a dance of
+two young girls to the music of drums and flutes which lasted no long
+time; at the conclusion they suddenly dropped all their dress, which was
+left as a present for me, and went off without my seeing them any more.
+After this the men danced: their performance was more indecent than any I
+had before seen, but was not the less applauded on that account by the
+natives, who seemed much delighted.
+
+After this entertainment I went with Tinah and Iddeah to pay a visit to
+an old lady named Wanowoora, widow to Towah the late Earee of Tettaha,
+who conducted the expedition against Eimeo when Captain Cook was here in
+1777. The old lady had just landed and we found her sitting on the beach
+by the head of her canoe. With Tinah was a priest and three men, who
+carried a young dog, a fowl, and two young plantain boughs: these were
+intended for the offering, or present, called Otee. Tinah and his party
+seated themselves at about ten yards distance from Wanowoora and were
+addressed by her in short sentences for a few minutes, and received her
+Otee, which was exactly the same as his. Tinah's priest in return made a
+short prayer and his offering was presented to the old lady. Tinah then
+rose and went to her, and embraced her in a very affectionate manner; and
+she returned his kindness with tears and many expressions which I could
+not understand. Soon after he conducted her to a shed and we remained
+with her till it was time to go on board to dinner. I invited her to be
+of the party but she excused herself on account of age and infirmity.
+Tinah gave directions for her and her attendants to be supplied with
+whatever they had occasion for, and we went off to the ship.
+
+Friday 13.
+
+This forenoon Tinah sent to inform me that many strangers were arrived
+from all parts to be present at a grand heiva which he had prepared in
+compliment to me. I accordingly went on shore and found a great crowd of
+people collected together. A ring was made at a little distance from our
+post, and Tinah and several other chiefs came to meet me. When we were
+all seated the heiva began by women dancing; after which a present of
+cloth and a tawme or breastplate was laid before me. This ceremony being
+over the men began to wrestle and regularity was no longer preserved. Old
+Otow came to me and desired I would help to put a stop to the wrestling
+as the people came from different districts, some of which were ill
+disposed towards others. What Otow had apprehended was not without reason
+for in an instant the whole was tumult: every man took to his arms and,
+as I found my single interference could be of no service, I retired to
+our post and ordered all my people there under arms. At the time the
+disturbance began Tinah and Iddeah were absent: their first care was for
+me, and Iddeah came to see if I was safe at the post. She had a double
+covering of cloth round her and her waist was girded with a large rope. I
+desired her to stay under my protection: this she would not consent to
+but said she would return as soon as all was over; and away she went.
+
+I immediately gave orders for two guns to be fired from the ship without
+shot, which had a good effect: and as no chief was concerned in the
+tumult but, on the contrary, all of them exerted their influence to
+prevent mischief, everything was soon quiet and Tinah and Iddeah returned
+to let me know that all was settled. They went on board with some other
+chiefs and dined with me.
+
+After dinner I went on shore with Tinah and his friends, and I found
+three large hogs dressed, and a quantity of breadfruit which he had
+ordered to be prepared before he went on board, and now desired I would
+present them to the different parties that had come to see the
+entertainment: one to the chief people of Attahooroo, one to the Arreoys,
+and a third to the performers of the heiva. I presented them according to
+his directions and they were received with thankfulness and pleasure.
+This I looked upon as very handsomely done on the part of Tinah, and I
+was glad to see that it was regarded in the same light by his guests.
+These instances of liberality make full amends for the little slips which
+I have formerly noticed in Tinah. At this time a day seldom passed that
+he did not give proofs of his hospitality by entertaining the principal
+people that came from different parts of the island to visit him, or to
+see the ship. Some of the chiefs he commonly invited to dine on board,
+and made provision for others on shore. Scarce any person of consequence
+went away without receiving some present from him. This I encouraged and
+was glad it was in my power to assist him. But besides the political
+motives that I have alluded to it would be unjust to Tinah not to
+acknowledge that his disposition seemed improved: he was more open and
+unreserved in his manners than formerly, and his hospitality was natural
+and without ostentation.
+
+Monday 16.
+
+I was present this afternoon at a wrestling match by women. The manner of
+challenging and method of attack was exactly the same as among the men.
+The only difference that I could observe was not in favour of the softer
+sex; for in these contests they showed less temper and more animosity
+than I could have imagined them capable of. The women, I was told, not
+only wrestle with each other but sometimes with the men; of this I have
+never seen an instance and imagine it can happen but seldom, as the women
+in general are small and by no means masculine. Iddeah is said to be very
+famous at this exercise.
+
+Tuesday 17.
+
+I walked with Tinah towards the hills to see his country residence which
+was at a very neat house, pleasantly situated and surrounded with
+plantations. From this place we saw the island Tethuroa. The next morning
+I went to Matavai to look after the Indian corn which I judged would be
+full ripe for gathering; but on my arrival I found that the natives had
+been beforehand with me, the whole being taken away. This I was not at
+all sorry for as it shows that they value it too much to neglect
+cultivating it.
+
+Monday 23.
+
+Iddeah sent on board for our dinners today a very fine tarro pudding; and
+Tinah brought a bunch of bananas that weighed 81 pounds, on which were
+286 fine fruit: ten had broken off in the carriage. The tarro pudding is
+excellent eating and easily made: I shall describe this piece of cookery
+as the knowledge of it may be useful in the West Indies. The tarro being
+cleared of the outside skin is grated down, and made up in rolls of about
+half a pound each, which they cover neatly with leaves and bake for near
+half an hour. An equal quantity of ripe coconut meat is likewise grated,
+from which through a strainer the rich milky juice is expressed. This
+juice is heated by putting smooth hot stones in the vessel that contains
+it, and the tarro is then mixed with it and kept constantly stirring to
+prevent burning till it is ready, which is known by the coconut juice
+turning to a clear oil.
+
+Wednesday 25.
+
+Iddeah was very uneasy today on account of her youngest child being ill.
+She would not accept of assistance from our surgeon but said she had sent
+to Tettaha for a man who she expected would come and tell her what to do.
+These physical people are called tata rapaow.
+
+Thursday 26.
+
+This morning a man died of a consumption about two miles from our post. I
+was informed of it by Mr. Peckover, the gunner, who I had desired to look
+out for such a circumstance. I therefore went accompanied by Iddeah in
+hopes of seeing the funeral ceremony; but before we arrived the body was
+removed to the Toopapow. It lay bare except a piece of cloth round the
+loins and another round the neck: the eyes were closed: the hands were
+placed, one over the pit of the stomach and the other upon his breast. On
+a finger of each hand was a ring made of plaited fibres of the
+coconut-tree, with a small bunch of red feathers. Under the Toopapow a
+hole was dug, in which at the end of a month the corpse was to be buried.
+The deceased was of the lower class; the Toopapow however was neat, and
+offerings of coconuts and plaited leaves lay on the ground.
+
+The dead are sometimes brought to the Toopapow in wood coffins, which are
+not shaped like ours but are simply a long box. This custom Iddeah
+informed me they learnt from the Europeans, and is not very common, as
+making plank is a work of great labour.
+
+March. Monday 2.
+
+When I landed this morning I found the inhabitants that lived near to us
+had left their houses and retired towards the mountains; and was informed
+that in the night a water cask, part of an azimuth compass, and Mr.
+Peckover's bedding, had been stolen from the post on shore; the knowledge
+of which had caused a general alarm. I sent a message to complain of this
+theft to Tinah who did not come near me. About two hours elapsed, during
+which time I went on board to breakfast and returned when I saw Tinah and
+Oreepyah with a number of people at a house at some distance; and soon
+after they all marched to the eastward, passing close by our post.
+Oedidee, who was with me, told me that they had intelligence of the
+thief, and were gone in quest of him: and in less than an hour news was
+brought that they had taken him. Shortly after the whole party appeared
+with the water-cask and compass. Tinah had hold of the thief by the arm
+and, showing him to me, desired that I would kill him. The bedding, he
+said, he had not heard of, but would go in search of it. I applauded him
+for the pains he had taken in this business, and explained with some
+success the injustice of stealing from us: that if any of our people
+committed the least offence against them it did not pass unnoticed; and
+that friendship required on their part that those who injured us should
+not be protected by them. Tinah stopped me from saying more by embracing
+me and the whole crowd cried out Tyo myty (i.e. good friend). Tinah then
+left me to enquire after the bedding, and I sent the offender on board,
+whom I punished with a severe flogging. I was glad to find this man was
+not of Oparre or Matavai.
+
+The fine fruit called Avee was just coming into season: it was likewise
+in season at the time of our arrival in October. The breadfruit trees I
+have no doubt bear all the year round: we have seen a scarcity of
+breadfruit but have never been wholly without it. Some fern-root was
+shown to me which in scarce seasons is used by the natives as bread. It
+bears a long even-edged leaf about an inch wide; the taste somewhat
+resembled that of a yam. I was informed by our people that in their walks
+they saw in many places patches of Indian corn just making their
+appearance through the ground. This convinces me that the corn taken from
+Matavai could not have been better disposed of.
+
+Goats are frequently offered for sale, but I rather discouraged the
+buying of them for fear of injuring the breed. The natives will not eat
+them, neither will they taste the milk, and ask with some appearance of
+disgust why we do not milk the sows? I endeavoured to prevail on Tinah
+and Iddeah to eat the goats milk by mixing it with fruit, but they would
+only try one spoonful.
+
+We had begun to make preparations for sailing, and Tinah supplied us with
+a sufficient stock of wood by ordering trees to be brought down from the
+country. He had frequently expressed a wish that I would leave some
+firearms and ammunition with him, as he expected to be attacked after the
+ship sailed, and perhaps chiefly on account of our partiality to him: I
+therefore thought it but reasonable to attend to his request, and I was
+the more readily prevailed on as he said his intentions were to act only
+on the defensive. This indeed seems most suited to his disposition, which
+is neither active nor enterprising. If Tinah had spirit in proportion to
+his size and strength he would probably be the greatest warrior in
+Otaheite: but courage is not the most conspicuous of his virtues. When I
+promised to leave with him a pair of pistols, which they prefer to
+muskets, he told me that Iddeah would fight with one and Oedidee with the
+other. Iddeah has learnt to load and fire a musket with great dexterity
+and Oedidee is an excellent marksman. It is not common for women in this
+country to go to war, but Iddeah is a very resolute woman, of a large
+make, and has great bodily strength.
+
+Friday 6.
+
+I sent Mr. Fryer the master to sound Taowne harbour. The knowledge that
+we intended shortly to sail having spread among the natives a great many
+broken iron tools were brought from all parts of the island to be
+repaired at our forge; and this morning a messenger arrived from
+Waheatua, the Earee of Tiarraboo, with several pieces of Spanish iron
+which he desired to have made into small adzes. This request was of
+course complied with.
+
+
+CHAPTER 11.
+
+Arrival of an Arreoy Woman from Tethuroa.
+A Present delivered by Tinah for his Majesty.
+Other Occurrences to the Time of the Ship's Departure from Otaheite.
+
+1789. March.
+
+From the 5th to the 14th of this month the wind blew constantly from
+between the north-west and south-west with a great deal of rain. This was
+the longest continuance of westerly winds without interruption that we
+experienced. On the 13th several canoes arrived here and at Matavai from
+Tethuroa: in these were a large tribe of Arreoys, and among them Huheine
+Moyere, the wife of Oreepyah, who is an Arreoy woman, and remained at
+Tethuroa after Oreepyah came away. On her arrival a ceremony was
+performed called Hooepippee, which seemed to be designed as a public
+visit to all their friends, who are collected on the occasion. In this
+ceremony there was nothing remarkable: the Arreoy men took their
+opportunity to plunder the women who were near them, and Iddeah made a
+present of some cloth to Huheine Moyere, and a baked hog to the Arreoys.
+
+Friday 13.
+
+After this ceremony a present was produced from many of the principal
+people for young Otoo, the Earee Rahie, which was received by Iddeah,
+Tinah being absent. This present consisted of five hogs, and forty-eight
+baskets filled with breadfruit, coconuts, tarro, and different kinds of
+puddings. The baskets were decorated with slips of cloth, stained with
+variety of colours and carried by 24 men, each of whom had a pole on his
+shoulder, at each end of which was a basket.
+
+I have seldom spoken of Otoo who was too young to have any share in the
+management of affairs, and with whom we were not permitted to have any
+intercourse, except speaking to him now and then across a river; at which
+times I did not neglect to send the children some little presents, so
+that they always rejoiced to see me. I might have been admitted to a
+nearer acquaintance if I would have gone with my shoulders uncovered, as
+his parents did, but this I declined. The children do not all live under
+the same roof, the two sisters eating and sleeping in a separate house,
+though at other times they are generally together.
+
+The island Tethuroa may very properly be compared to some of our
+watering-places in England, producing a similar effect upon those who
+visit it. Many who went there covered with scurf returned plump and fair,
+and scarce like the same people. This alteration for the better is in a
+great measure to be attributed to the discontinuance of the Ava, which
+Tethuroa does not produce: the coconut trees, likewise, which supply them
+with their only beverage, growing on low sandy keys and having their
+roots below the level of the sea may probably have qualities different
+from the coconuts of Otaheite which, with a plenty of fish, that at other
+times they are not accustomed to, must no doubt contribute to the
+amendment described.
+
+Saturday 14.
+
+I was visited today by a very old man, an uncle to Tupia, the person who
+went from these islands in the Endeavour in the year 1769, and who died
+at Batavia. He appeared to be near 70 years old and was treated with much
+respect by the natives. He made several enquiries concerning his nephew
+and requested that when I came again I would bring his hair. At the time
+that Tinah mentioned to me his desire of visiting England I asked what
+account I could give to his friends if he should not live to return; to
+which he replied that I must cut off his hair and carry it to them and
+they would be perfectly satisfied.
+
+Monday 16.
+
+On the 16th I was informed that a stop was put to the sale of hogs in the
+district of Tettaha. Teppahoo, the Earee of that district, told me that
+they had very few hogs left there, and that it was necessary for a
+certain time to prohibit every person from killing or selling, that they
+might have time to breed. I did not think it reasonable to solicit any
+indulgence on this head: my friends at Matavai and Oparre promised to
+supply us as long as we remained here, though we had considerably thinned
+their stock. After our departure the same restriction was to take place
+in these districts, and it being delayed on our account certainly
+deserves to be regarded among their acts of friendship towards us.
+
+As it was generally known that we were preparing to sail a number of the
+natives from other parts of the island were constantly with us, and petty
+thefts were committed whenever the negligence of our people afforded an
+opportunity: but no attempt of any consequence was made.
+
+Thursday 19.
+
+This evening Mr. Samwel my clerk returned from an excursion to the
+mountains, having been two days absent. He described the hills to be well
+clothed with wood, except the tops of the higher mountains which only
+produced bushes and fern. The birds he saw were blue parakeets and green
+doves, except one which he found burrowing in the ground and brought to
+me. This bird was about the size of a pigeon, and proved to be a
+white-bellied petrel of the same kind as those seen in high latitudes,
+which are called shearwaters. He likewise brought a branch of a plant
+like the New Zealand tea-plant, and which at Van Diemen's land we had
+made use of for brooms. From the hills he saw the islands Maitea and
+Huaheine, which are situated nearly in opposite directions from Otaheite
+and are 70 leagues distant from each other.
+
+Friday 27.
+
+For some days past Tinah had been busied in getting two parais, or
+mourning-dresses, made, which he intended as a present to King George.
+Being finished they were this morning hung up in his house as a public
+exhibition, and a long prayer made on the occasion, the substance of
+which was that the King of England might forever remain his friend and
+not forget him. When he presented the parais for me to take on board he
+could not refrain from shedding tears. During the short remainder of our
+stay here there appeared among the natives an evident degree of sorrow
+that we were so soon to leave them, which they showed by unusual kindness
+and attention.
+
+We began this afternoon to remove the plants to the ship. They were in
+excellent order: the roots had appeared through the bottom of the pots
+and would have shot into the ground if care had not been taken to prevent
+it.
+
+The weather was considerably altered for the better and the tradewind
+appeared settled. The rainy and bad season of the year may be reckoned to
+begin towards the end of November and to continue till near the end of
+March. During this time the winds are variable and often westerly, though
+we seldom found them to blow strong in that direction. We likewise
+experienced frequent intervals of fine weather; but during these months
+so open a road as Matavai bay is not a safe anchoring-place for ships
+that intend remaining any length of time at Otaheite.
+
+Tuesday 31.
+
+Today all the plants were on board, being in 774 pots, 39 tubs, and 24
+boxes. The number of breadfruit plants were 1015, besides which we had
+collected a number of other plants. The avee, which is one of the
+finest-flavoured fruits in the world. The ayyah, which is a fruit not so
+rich but of a fine flavour and very refreshing. The rattah, not much
+unlike a chestnut, which grows on a large tree in great quantities: they
+are singly in large pods from one to two inches broad, and may be eaten
+raw or boiled in the same manner as Windsor beans, and so dressed are
+equally good. The oraiah, which is a very superior kind of plantain. All
+these I was particularly recommended to collect by my worthy friend, Sir
+Joseph Banks. I had also taken on board some plants of the ettow and
+matte, with which the natives here make a beautiful red colour; and a
+root called peeah, of which they make an excellent pudding.
+
+I now made my last presents to several of my friends with whom I had been
+most intimate, particularly to Teppahoo. Several people expressed great
+desire to go with us to England. Oedidee, who was always very much
+attached to us, said he considered it as his right, having formerly left
+his native place to sail with Captain Cook. Scarce any man belonging to
+the ship was without a tyo, who brought to him presents, chiefly of
+provisions for a sea store.
+
+April. Friday 3.
+
+Tinah and his wife, with his parents, brothers, and sister, dined with me
+today and, as I meant to sail early the next morning, they all remained
+on board for the night. The ship was crowded the whole day with the
+natives, and we were loaded with coconuts, plantains, breadfruit, hogs,
+and goats. In the evening there was no dancing or mirth on the beach such
+as we had been accustomed to, but all was silent.
+
+Saturday 4.
+
+At daylight we unmoored: the stock of the best bower anchor was so much
+eaten by the worms that it broke in stowing the anchor: the small bower
+had an iron stock, and in these voyages it is very necessary that ships
+should be provided with iron anchor stocks. At half-past six there being
+no wind we weighed and, with our boats and two sweeps, towed the ship out
+of the harbour. Soon after the sea breeze came, and we stood off towards
+the sea.
+
+The outlet of Toahroah harbour being narrow I could permit only a few of
+the natives to be on board: many others however attended in canoes till
+the breeze came, when I was obliged to leave them. We stood off and on
+almost all the remainder of the day. Tinah and Iddeah pressed me very
+strongly to anchor in Matavai bay and stay one night longer but, as I had
+already taken leave of most of my friends, I thought it better to keep to
+my intention of sailing. After dinner I ordered the presents which I had
+preserved for Tinah and his wife to be put in one of the ship's boats,
+and as I had promised him firearms I gave him two muskets, a pair of
+pistols, and a good stock of ammunition. I then represented to them the
+necessity of their going away, that the boat might return to the ship
+before it was dark, on which they took a most affectionate leave of me
+and went into the boat. One of their expressions at parting was "Yourah
+no t' Eatua tee eveerah." "May the Eatua protect you, for ever and ever."
+
+All the time we remained at Otaheite the picture of Captain Cook, at the
+desire of Tinah, was kept on board the ship. On delivering it to him I
+wrote on the back the time of the ship's arrival and departure, with an
+account of the number of plants on board.
+
+Tinah had desired that I would salute him at his departure with the great
+guns, which I could not comply with for fear of disturbing the plants;
+but as a parting token of our regard we manned ship with all hands and
+gave him three cheers. At sunset the boat returned and we made sail,
+bidding farewell to Otaheite where for twenty-three weeks we had been
+treated with the utmost affection and regard, and which seemed to
+increase in proportion to our stay. That we were not insensible to their
+kindness the events which followed more than sufficiently proves: for to
+the friendly and endearing behaviour of these people may be ascribed the
+motives for that event which effected the ruin of an expedition that
+there was every reason to hope would have been completed in the most
+fortunate manner.
+
+To enter into a description of the island or its inhabitants I look upon
+as superfluous. From the accounts of former voyages and the facts which I
+have related the character of the people will appear in as true a light
+as by any description in my power to give. The length of time that we
+remained at Otaheite, with the advantage of having been there before,
+gave me opportunities of making perhaps a more perfect vocabulary of the
+language than has yet appeared; but I have chosen to defer it for the
+present as there is a probability that I may hereafter be better
+qualified for such a task.
+
+We left Otaheite with only two patients in the venereal list, which shows
+that the disease has not gained ground. The natives say that it is of
+little consequence, and we saw several instances of people that had been
+infected who, after absenting themselves for 15 or 20 days, made their
+appearance again without any visible symptom remaining of the disease.
+Their method of cure I am unacquainted with; but their customary diet and
+mode of living must contribute towards it. We saw a great many people
+however with scrofulous habits and bad sores: these they denied to be
+produced from any venereal cause; and our surgeon was of the same
+opinion.
+
+The result of the mean of 50 sets of lunar observations taken by me on
+shore gives for the Longitude of Point Venus 210 degrees 33 minutes 57
+seconds east.
+
+Captain Cook in 1769 places it in 210 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds east.
+
+In 1777, his last voyage, 210 degrees 22 minutes 28 seconds east.
+
+The tide in Toahroah harbour was very inconsiderable and not regular. The
+greatest rise that I observed was 11 inches; but what was most singular
+the time of high-water did not appear to be governed by the moon, it
+being at the highest every day between noon and two o'clock. The variable
+winds and weather at this time of the year has no doubt an influence on
+the tides: on some days scarce any rise was perceptible.
+
+
+CHAPTER 12.
+
+At the Island Huaheine.
+A Friend of Omai visits the Ship.
+Leave the Society Islands.
+A Water-spout.
+The Island Whytootackee discovered.
+Anchor in Annamooka Road.
+Our Parties on Shore robbed by the Natives.
+Sail from Annamooka.
+The Chiefs detained on board.
+Part friendly.
+
+1789. April. Sunday 5.
+
+We steered towards the island Huaheine, which we got sight of the next
+morning. At noon we brought to near the entrance of Owharre harbour, it
+not being my intention to anchor. We could see every part of the harbour
+distinctly, but my attention was particularly directed to the spot where
+Omai's house had stood, no part of which was now visible. It was near
+three o'clock before any canoes came off to us, for the people on shore
+imagined that the ship was coming into the harbour. The first that
+arrived had three men in it, who brought a few coconuts. I enquired about
+the chief or Earee Rahie; and one of the fellows with great gravity said
+he was the Earee Rahie, and that he had come to desire I would bring the
+ship into the harbour. I could not help laughing at his impudence:
+however I gave him a few nails for his coconuts and he left us.
+Immediately after a double canoe in which were ten men came alongside;
+among them was a young man who recollected and called me by my name.
+Several other canoes arrived with hogs, yams, and other provisions, which
+we purchased. My acquaintance told me that he had lived with our friend
+Omai. He confirmed the account that had already been given and informed
+me that of all the animals which had been left with Omai the mare only
+remained alive. He said that Omai and himself had often rode together,
+and I observed that many of the islanders who came on board had the
+representation of a man on horseback tattooed on their legs. After the
+death of Omai his house was broken to pieces and the materials stolen.
+The firearms were at Ulietea but useless. I enquired after the seeds and
+plants and was informed that they were all destroyed except one tree, but
+of what kind that was I could not make out from their description. I was
+much pressed to take the ship into the harbour, and Omai's companion
+requested me to let him go to England. When they found that I would not
+stop among them they seemed jealous of our going to Ulietea, and it
+appeared to give them some satisfaction when I told them that I should
+not go near that island.
+
+The canoes had left us and we were making sail when we discovered an
+Indian in the water swimming towards the shore, which in all probability
+he would not have been able to reach. We took him up and luckily another
+canoe coming alongside we put him in her. The people of the canoe said
+that the man was insane, but how he came to be swimming so far from the
+land we could not conjecture. At six o'clock we made sail and ran all
+night to the south-west and south-west by south, between the islands
+Huaheine and Ulietea. The next morning I altered the course, steering
+more to the westward for the Friendly Islands.
+
+Thursday 9.
+
+On the 9th at nine o'clock in the morning the weather became squally and
+a body of thick black clouds collected in the east. Soon after a
+water-spout was seen at no great distance from us, which appeared to
+great advantage from the darkness of the clouds behind it. As nearly as I
+could judge it was about two feet diameter at the upper part, and about
+eight inches at the lower. I had scarce made these remarks when I
+observed that it was advancing rapidly towards the ship. We immediately
+altered our course and took in all the sails except the foresail, soon
+after which it passed within ten yards of our stern, making a rustling
+noise but without our feeling the least effect from its being so near us.
+The rate at which it travelled I judged to be about ten miles per hour
+going towards the west in the direction of the wind. In a quarter of an
+hour after passing us it dispersed. I never was so near a water-spout
+before: the connection between the column, which was higher than our
+mastheads, and the water below was no otherwise visible than by the sea
+being disturbed in a circular space of about six yards in diameter, the
+centre of which, from the whirling of the water round it, formed a
+hollow; and from the outer part of the circle the water was thrown up
+with much force in a spiral direction, and could be traced to the height
+of fifteen or twenty feet. At this elevation we lost sight of it and
+could see nothing of its junction with the column above. It is impossible
+to say what injury we should have suffered if it had passed directly over
+us. Masts I imagine might have been carried away, but I do not apprehend
+it would have endangered the loss of a ship.
+
+Saturday 11.
+
+As we sailed very near the track made in former voyages I had little
+reason to expect that we should at this time make any new discovery:
+nevertheless on the 11th at daylight land was seen to the
+south-south-west at about five leagues distance, which appeared to be an
+island of a moderate height. On the north part was a round hill: the
+north-west part was highest and steep: the south-east part sloped off to
+a low point.
+
+The wind had been westerly since the preceding noon, and at the time we
+saw the land the ship was standing to the north-west. At six we tacked to
+the southward, and as we advanced in that direction discovered a number
+of low keys, of which at noon we counted nine: they were all covered with
+trees. The large island first seen had a most fruitful appearance, its
+shore being bordered with flat land, on which grew innumerable coconut
+and other trees; and the higher grounds beautifully interspersed with
+lawns. The wind being light and unfavourable we endeavoured all day but
+without success to get near the land. In the night we had a heavy squall
+which obliged us to clew up all our sails and soon after it fell calm.
+
+Sunday 12.
+
+The winds were light and variable all day with calms. At two in the
+afternoon we were within three miles of the southernmost key and could
+see a number of people within the reefs. Shortly after a canoe, in which
+were four men, paddled off to us and came alongside without showing any
+signs of apprehension or surprise. I gave them a few beads and they came
+into the ship. One man, who seemed to have an ascendancy over the others,
+looked about the ship with some appearance of curiosity, but none of them
+would venture to go below. They asked for some boiled fresh pork which
+they saw in a bowl belonging to one of the seaman, and it was given them
+to eat with boiled plantains. Being told that I was the Earee or chief of
+the ship the principal person came and joined noses with me, and
+presented to me a large mother of pearl shell, which hung with plaited
+hair round his neck; this he fastened round my neck with signs of great
+satisfaction.
+
+They spoke the same language as at Otaheite, with very little variation
+as far as I could judge. In a small vocabulary that I made whilst
+conversing with these men only four words out of twenty-four differed
+from the Otaheite. The name of the large island they told me was
+Wytootackee, and the Earee was called Lomakkayah. They said that there
+were no hogs, dogs, or goats upon the island, nor had they yams, or
+tarro; but that plantains, coconuts, fowls, breadfruit, and avees, were
+there in great abundance. Notwithstanding they said that no hogs were on
+the island it was evident they had seen such animals; for they called
+them by the same name as is given to them at Otaheite, which made me
+suspect that they were deceiving me. However I ordered a young boar and
+sow to be put into their canoe with some yams and tarro, as we could
+afford to part with some of these articles. I also gave to each of them a
+knife, a small adze, some nails, beads, and a looking-glass. The latter
+they examined with great curiosity; but with the ironwork they appeared
+to be acquainted; calling it aouree, which is the common name for iron
+among the islands where it is known.
+
+As they were preparing to leave us the chief of the canoe took possession
+of everything that I had given to the others. One of them showed some
+signs of dissatisfaction, but after a little altercation they joined
+noses and were reconciled. I now thought they were going to leave the
+ship, but only two of them went into the canoe, the other two purposing
+to stay all night with us and to have the canoe return for them in the
+morning. I would have treated their confidence with the regard it merited
+but it was impossible to say how far the ship might be driven from the
+island in the night. This I explained to them and they reluctantly
+consented to leave us. They were very solicitous that somebody from the
+ship should go on shore with them, and just before they quitted us they
+gave me a wooden spear which was the only thing, the paddles excepted,
+they had brought with them in the canoe. It was a common longstaff
+pointed with the toa wood.
+
+The island of Wytootackee is about ten miles in circuit; its latitude
+from 18 degrees 50 minutes to 18 degrees 54 minutes south, and longitude
+200 degrees 19 minutes east. A group of small keys, eight in number, lie
+to the south-east, four or five miles distant from Wytootackee and a
+single one to the west-south-west; the southernmost of the group is in
+latitude 18 degrees 58 minutes south. Variation of the compass 8 degrees
+14 minutes east.
+
+The people that came off to us did not differ in appearance from the
+natives of Hervey's Islands, seen in Captain Cook's last voyage, though
+much more friendly and inoffensive in their manners. They were tattooed
+across the arms and legs, but not on the loins or posteriors, like the
+people of Otaheite. From their knowledge of iron they have doubtless
+communication with Hervey's Islands, which are not more than eighteen
+leagues distant from them.
+
+In the night a breeze sprang up from the south and we continued our
+course to the westward.
+
+Saturday 18.
+
+On the 18th at sunset we saw Savage Island, and in the night passed by to
+the southward of it.
+
+Tuesday 21.
+
+At eleven o'clock in the forenoon of the 21st we saw the island Caow from
+the masthead, bearing north-west by west three-quarters west. This island
+is a high mountain with a sharp-pointed top, and is the north-westernmost
+of all the Friendly Islands. At noon we saw it very distinctly from the
+deck, it being then nineteen leagues distant from us.
+
+Thursday 23.
+
+The wind being to the southward we could not fetch Annamooka, at which
+island I intended to stop, before the evening of the 23rd, when we
+anchored in the road in twenty-three fathoms, the extremes of Annamooka
+bearing east by north and south by east, our distance from the shore
+being half a league. In the middle of the day a canoe had come off to us
+from the island Mango in which was a chief named Latoomy-lange, who dined
+with me. Immediately on our anchoring several canoes came alongside with
+yams and coconuts, but none of the natives offered to come on board
+without first asking permission. As yet I had seen no person with whom I
+could recollect to have been formerly acquainted. I made enquiries after
+some of our old friends, particularly the chiefs, but I found myself not
+sufficiently master of the language to obtain the information I wanted.
+
+Friday 24.
+
+Our station being inconvenient for watering at daylight we weighed, and
+worked more to the eastward where we anchored in twenty-one fathoms; the
+extremes of Annamooka bearing north 85 degrees east and south 33 degrees
+west; the Sandy bay south 73 degrees east; our distance from the shore
+half a league. Sounded all round the ship and found the ground to be a
+coarse coral bottom, but with even soundings.
+
+By this time some large sailing canoes were arrived from different
+islands in the neighbourhood of Annamooka; and an old lame man named
+Tepa, whom I had known in 1777 and immediately recollected, came on
+board. Two other chiefs whose names were Noocaboo and Kunocappo were with
+him. Tepa having formerly been accustomed to our manner of speaking their
+language I found I could converse with him tolerably well. He informed me
+that Poulaho, Feenow, and Tubow, were alive and at Tongataboo, and that
+they would come hither as soon as they heard of our arrival, of which he
+promised to send them immediate notice. He said that the cattle which we
+had left at Tongataboo had all bred, and that the old ones were yet
+living. He enquired after several people who were here with Captain Cook.
+Being desirous to see the ship I took him and his companions below and
+showed them the breadfruit and other plants, at seeing which they were
+greatly surprised. I made each of them a present, and when they had
+satisfied their curiosity I invited them to go on shore with me in the
+ship's boat.
+
+I took Nelson with me to procure some breadfruit plants, one of our stock
+being dead and two or three others a little sickly. When we landed there
+were about two hundred people on the beach, most of them women and
+children. Tepa showed me a large boat-house which he told me we might
+make use of, thinking we should have a party on shore as our ships had
+formerly. I went with him in search of water but could find no better
+place than where Captain Cook had watered, which is a quarter of a mile
+inland from the east end of the beach. I next walked to the west point of
+the bay where some plants and seeds had been sown by Captain Cook; and
+had the satisfaction to see in a plantation close by about twenty fine
+pineapple plants but no fruit, this not being the proper season. They
+told me that they had eaten many of them, that they were fine and large,
+and that at Tongataboo there were great numbers.
+
+When I returned to the landing-place I was desired to sit down and a
+present was brought me which consisted of some bundles of coconuts only.
+This fell short of my expectations; however I appeared satisfied and
+distributed beads and trinkets to the women and children near me.
+
+Numerous were the marks of mourning with which these people disfigure
+themselves, such as bloody temples, their heads deprived of most of the
+hair, and what was worse almost all of them with the loss of some of
+their fingers. Several fine boys, not above six years old, had lost both
+their little fingers; and some of the men besides these had parted with
+the middle finger of the right hand.
+
+The chiefs went off with me to dinner, and I found a brisk trade carrying
+on at the ship for yams; some plantains and breadfruit were likewise
+brought on board but no hogs. In the afternoon more sailing canoes
+arrived, some of which contained not less than ninety passengers. We
+purchased eight hogs, some dogs, fowls, and shaddocks. Yams were in great
+abundance, very fine and large; one yam weighed above forty-five pounds.
+Among the people that came this afternoon were two of the name of Tubow,
+which is a family of the first distinction among the Friendly Islands;
+one of them was chief of the island Lefooga; with him and Tepa I went on
+shore to see the wooding place. I found a variety of sizable trees but
+the kind which I principally pitched upon was the Barringtonia of
+Forster. I acquainted Tepa with my intention of sending people to cut
+wood, which meeting with his approbation, we parted.
+
+Saturday 25.
+
+On the 25th at daylight the wooding and watering parties went on shore. I
+had directed them not to cut the kind of tree* which, when Captain Cook
+wooded here in 1777, blinded for a time many of the woodcutters. They had
+not been an hour on shore before one man had an axe stolen from him and
+another an adze. Tepa was applied to, who got the axe restored but the
+adze was not recovered. In the evening we completed wooding.
+
+(*Footnote. Excoecaria agallocha Linn. Sp. Pl. Called in the Malay
+language caju mata boota, which signifies the the tree that wounds the
+eyes.)
+
+Sunday 26.
+
+In the morning Nelson went on shore to get a few plants but, no principal
+chief being among the people, he was insulted, and a spade taken from
+him. A boat's grapnel was likewise stolen from the watering party. Tepa
+recovered the spade for us, but the crowd of natives was become so great,
+by the number of canoes that had arrived from different islands, that it
+was impossible to do anything where there was such a multitude of people
+without a chief of sufficient authority to command the whole. I therefore
+ordered the watering party to go on board and determined to sail, for I
+could not discover that any canoe had been sent to acquaint the chiefs of
+Tongataboo of our being here. For some time after the thefts were
+committed the chiefs kept away, but before noon they came on board.
+
+At noon we unmoored, and at one o'clock got under sail. The two Tubows,
+Kunocappo, Latoomy-lange, and another chief, were on board, and I
+acquainted them that unless the grapnel was returned they must remain in
+the ship. They were surprised and not a little alarmed. Canoes were
+immediately despatched after the grapnel, which I was informed could not
+possibly be brought to the ship before the next day, as those who had
+stolen it immediately sailed with their prize to another island.
+Nevertheless I detained them till sunset, when their uneasiness and
+impatience increased to such a degree that they began to beat themselves
+about the face and eyes and some of them cried bitterly. As this distress
+was more than the grapnel was worth, and I had no reason to imagine that
+they were privy to or in any manner concerned in the theft, I could not
+think of detaining them longer and called their canoes alongside. I then
+told them they were at liberty to go, and made each of them a present of
+a hatchet, a saw, with some knives, gimblets, and nails. This unexpected
+present and the sudden change in their situation affected them not less
+with joy than they had before been with apprehension. They were unbounded
+in their acknowledgments and I have little doubt but that we parted
+better friends than if the affair had never happened.
+
+We stood to the northward all night with light winds.
+
+Monday 27.
+
+And on the next day the 27th at noon were between the islands Tofoa and
+Kotoo. Latitude observed 19 degrees 18 minutes south.
+
+Thus far the voyage had advanced in a course of uninterrupted prosperity,
+and had been attended with many circumstances equally pleasing and
+satisfactory. A very different scene was now to be experienced. A
+conspiracy had been formed which was to render all our past labour
+productive only of extreme misery and distress. The means had been
+concerted and prepared with so much secrecy and circumspection that no
+one circumstance appeared to occasion the smallest suspicion of the
+impending calamity.
+
+
+CHAPTER 13.
+
+A Mutiny in the Ship.
+
+1789. April. Monday 27.
+
+We kept near the island Kotoo all the afternoon in hopes that some canoes
+would come off to the ship; but in this I was disappointed. The wind
+being northerly in the evening we steered to the westward to pass to the
+south of Tofoa. I gave directions for this course to be continued during
+the night. The master had the first watch, the gunner the middle watch,
+and Mr. Christian the morning watch. This was the turn of duty for the
+night.
+
+Tuesday 28.
+
+Just before sun-rising, while I was yet asleep, Mr. Christian, with the
+master at arms, gunner's mate, and Thomas Burkitt, seaman, came into my
+cabin, and seizing me tied my hands with a cord behind my back,
+threatening me with instant death if I spoke or made the least noise: I
+however called as loud as I could in hopes of assistance; but they had
+already secured the officers who were not of their party by placing
+sentinels at their doors. There were three men at my cabin door besides
+the four within; Christian had only a cutlass in his hand, the others had
+muskets and bayonets. I was hauled out of bed and forced on deck in my
+shirt, suffering great pain from the tightness which with they had tied
+my hands. I demanded the reason of such violence but received no other
+answer than abuse for not holding my tongue. The master, the gunner, the
+surgeon, Mr. Elphinstone, master's mate, and Nelson, were kept confined
+below; and the fore hatchway was guarded by sentinels. The boatswain and
+carpenter, and also the clerk, Mr. Samuel, were allowed to come upon
+deck, where they saw me standing abaft the mizenmast with my hands tied
+behind my back under a guard with Christian at their head. The boatswain
+was ordered to hoist the launch out with a threat if he did not do it
+instantly TO TAKE CARE OF HIMSELF.
+
+When the boat was out Mr. Hayward and Mr. Hallet, two of the midshipmen,
+and Mr. Samuel, were ordered into it. I demanded what their intention was
+in giving this order and endeavoured to persuade the people near me not
+to persist in such acts of violence; but it was to no effect: "Hold your
+tongue, Sir, or you are dead this instant," was constantly repeated to
+me.
+
+The master by this time had sent to request that he might come on deck,
+which was permitted but he was soon ordered back again to his cabin.
+
+I continued my endeavours to turn the tide of affairs, when Christian
+changed the cutlass which he had in his hand for a bayonet that was
+brought to him and, holding me with a strong grip by the cord that tied
+my hands, he with many oaths threatened to kill me immediately if I would
+not be quiet: the villains round me had their pieces cocked and bayonets
+fixed. Particular people were called on to go into the boat and were
+hurried over the side; whence I concluded that with these people I was to
+be set adrift: I therefore made another effort to bring about a change
+but with no other effect than to be threatened with having my brains
+blown out.
+
+The boatswain and seamen who were to go in the boat were allowed to
+collect twine, canvas, lines, sails, cordage, an eight and twenty-gallon
+cask of water, and Mr. Samuel got 150 pounds of bread, with a small
+quantity of rum and wine, also a quadrant and compass; but he was
+forbidden on pain of death to touch either map, ephemeris, book of
+astronomical observations, sextant, timekeeper, or any of my surveys or
+drawings.
+
+The mutineers having forced those of the seamen whom they meant to get
+rid of into the boat, Christian directed a dram to be served to each of
+his own crew. I then unhappily saw that nothing could be done to effect
+the recovery of the ship: there was no one to assist me, and every
+endeavour on my part was answered with threats of death.
+
+The officers were next called upon deck and forced over the side into the
+boat, while I was kept apart from everyone, abaft the mizenmast;
+Christian, armed with a bayonet, holding me by the bandage that secured
+my hands. The guard round me had their pieces cocked, but on my daring
+the ungrateful wretches to fire they uncocked them.
+
+Isaac Martin, one of the guard over me, I saw had an inclination to
+assist me, and as he fed me with shaddock (my lips being quite parched)
+we explained our wishes to each other by our looks; but this being
+observed Martin was removed from me. He then attempted to leave the ship,
+for which purpose he got into the boat; but with many threats they
+obliged him to return.
+
+The armourer, Joseph Coleman, and two of the carpenters, McIntosh and
+Norman, were also kept contrary to their inclination; and they begged of
+me, after I was astern in the boat, to remember that they declared they
+had no hand in the transaction. Michael Byrne, I am told, likewise wanted
+to leave the ship.
+
+It is of no moment for me to recount my endeavours to bring back the
+offenders to a sense of their duty: all I could do was by speaking to
+them in general; but it was to no purpose, for I was kept securely bound
+and no one except the guard suffered to come near me.
+
+To Mr. Samuel I am indebted for securing my journals and commission with
+some material ship papers. Without these I had nothing to certify what I
+had done, and my honour and character might have been suspected without
+my possessing a proper document to have defended them. All this he did
+with great resolution, though guarded and strictly watched. He attempted
+to save the timekeeper, and a box with my surveys, drawings, and remarks
+for fifteen years past, which were numerous, when he was hurried away,
+with "Damn your eyes you are well off to get what you have."
+
+It appeared to me that Christian was some time in doubt whether he should
+keep the carpenter or his mates; at length he determined on the latter
+and the carpenter was ordered into the boat. He was permitted but not
+without some opposition to take his tool chest.
+
+Much altercation took place among the mutinous crew during the whole
+business: some swore "I'll be damned if he does not find his way home, if
+he gets anything with him," (meaning me) and, when the carpenter's chest
+was carrying away, "Damn my eyes he will have a vessel built in a month."
+While others laughed at the helpless situation of the boat, being very
+deep and so little room for those who were in her. As for Christian he
+seemed as if meditating destruction on himself and everyone else.
+
+I asked for arms but they laughed at me, and said I was well acquainted
+with the people among whom I was going, and therefore did not want them;
+four cutlasses however were thrown into the boat after we were veered
+astern.
+
+The officers and men being in the boat they only waited for me, of which
+the master at arms informed Christian, who then said: "Come, captain
+Bligh, your officers and men are now in the boat and you must go with
+them; if you attempt to make the least resistance you will instantly be
+put to death" and, without further ceremony, with a tribe of armed
+ruffians about me, I was forced over the side where they untied my hands.
+Being in the boat we were veered astern by a rope. A few pieces of pork
+were thrown to us, and some clothes, also the cutlasses I have already
+mentioned; and it was then that the armourer and carpenters called out to
+me to remember that they had no hand in the transaction. After having
+undergone a great deal of ridicule and been kept some time to make sport
+for these unfeeling wretches we were at length cast adrift in the open
+ocean.
+
+I had with me in the boat the following persons:
+
+John Fryer: Master.
+Thomas Ledward: Acting Surgeon.
+David Nelson: Botanist.
+William Peckover: Gunner.
+William Cole: Boatswain.
+William Purcell: Carpenter.
+William Elphinston: Master's Mate.
+Thomas Hayward, John Hallet: Midshipman.
+John Norton, Peter Linkletter: Quarter Masters.
+Lawrence Lebogue: Sailmaker.
+John Smith, Thomas Hall: Cooks.
+George Simpson: Quarter Master's Mate.
+Robert Tinkler: A boy.
+Robert Lamb: Butcher.
+Mr. Samuel: Clerk.
+
+There remained on board the Bounty:
+
+Fletcher Christian: Master's Mate.
+Peter Haywood, Edward Young, George Stewart: Midshipmen.
+Charles Churchill: Master at Arms.
+John Mills: Gunner's Mate.
+James Morrison: Boatswain's Mate.
+Thomas Burkitt, Matthew Quintal, John Sumner, John Millward, William
+McKoy, Henry Hillbrant, Michael Byrne, William Musprat, Alexander Smith,
+John Williams, Thomas Ellison, Isaac Martin, Richard Skinner, Matthew
+Thompson: Able Seamen.
+William Brown: Gardener.
+Joseph Coleman: Armourer.
+Charles Norman: Carpenter's Mate.
+Thomas McIntosh: Carpenter's Crew.
+
+In all 25 hands, and the most able men of the ship's company.
+
+Having little or no wind we rowed pretty fast towards Tofoa, which bore
+north-east about 10 leagues from us. While the ship was in sight she
+steered to the west-north-west, but I considered this only as a feint;
+for when we were sent away "Huzza for Otaheite" was frequently heard
+among the mutineers.
+
+Christian the chief of the mutineers is of a respectable family in the
+north of England. This was the third voyage he had made with me and, as I
+found it necessary to keep my ship's company at three watches, I had
+given him an order to take charge of the third, his abilities being
+thoroughly equal to the task; and by this means the master and gunner
+were not at watch and watch.
+
+Haywood is also of a respectable family in the north of England and a
+young man of abilities as well as Christian. These two had been objects
+of my particular regard and attention, and I had taken great pains to
+instruct them, having entertained hopes that as professional men they
+would have become a credit to their country.
+
+Young was well recommended and had the look of an able stout seaman: he
+however fell short of what his appearance promised.
+
+Stewart was a young man of creditable parents in the Orkneys, at which
+place on the return of the Resolution from the South Seas in 1780 we
+received so many civilities that on that account only I should gladly
+have taken him with me but, independent of this recommendation, he was a
+seaman and had always borne a good character.
+
+Notwithstanding the roughness with which I was treated the remembrance of
+past kindnesses produced some signs of remorse in Christian. When they
+were forcing me out of the ship I asked him if this treatment was a
+proper return for the many instances he had received of my friendship? he
+appeared disturbed at my question and answered with much emotion: "That,
+captain Bligh, that is the thing; I am in hell, I am in hell."
+
+As soon as I had time to reflect I felt an inward satisfaction which
+prevented any depression of my spirits: conscious of my integrity and
+anxious solicitude for the good of the service in which I had been
+engaged I found my mind wonderfully supported, and I began to conceive
+hopes, notwithstanding so heavy a calamity, that I should one day be able
+to account to my King and country for the misfortune. A few hours before
+my situation had been peculiarly flattering. I had a ship in the most
+perfect order and well stored with every necessary both for service and
+health: by early attention to those particulars I had as much as lay in
+my power, provided against any accident, in case I could not get through
+Endeavour Straits, as well as against what might befall me in them; add
+to this the plants had been successfully preserved in the most
+flourishing state: so that upon the whole the voyage was two-thirds
+completed, and the remaining part to all appearance in a very promising
+way; every person on board being in perfect health, to establish which
+was ever amongst the principal objects of my attention.
+
+It will very naturally be asked what could be the reason for such a
+revolt? in answer to which I can only conjecture that the mutineers had
+flattered themselves with the hopes of a more happy life among the
+Otaheiteans than they could possibly enjoy in England; and this, joined
+to some female connections, most probably occasioned the whole
+transaction.
+
+The women at Otaheite are handsome, mild and cheerful in their manners
+and conversation, possessed of great sensibility, and have sufficient
+delicacy to make them admired and beloved. The chiefs were so much
+attached to our people that they rather encouraged their stay among them
+than otherwise, and even made them promises of large possessions. Under
+these and many other attendant circumstances equally desirable it is now
+perhaps not so much to be wondered at, though scarcely possible to have
+been foreseen, that a set of sailors, most of them void of connections,
+should be led away; especially when, in addition to such powerful
+inducements, they imagined it in their power to fix themselves in the
+midst of plenty on one of the finest islands in the world, where they
+need not labour, and where the allurements of dissipation are beyond
+anything that can be conceived. The utmost however that any commander
+could have supposed to have happened is that some of the people would
+have been tempted to desert. But, if it should be asserted that a
+commander is to guard against an act of mutiny and piracy in his own ship
+more than by the common rules of service, it is as much as to say that he
+must sleep locked up and when awake be girded with pistols.
+
+Desertions have happened more or less from most of the ships that have
+been at the Society Islands; but it has always been in the commanders
+power to make the chiefs return their people: the knowledge therefore
+that it was unsafe to desert perhaps first led mine to consider with what
+ease so small a ship might be surprised, and that so favourable an
+opportunity would never offer to them again.
+
+The secrecy of this mutiny is beyond all conception. Thirteen of the
+party who were with me had always lived forward among the seamen; yet
+neither they nor the messmates of Christian, Stewart, Haywood, and Young,
+had ever observed any circumstance that made them in the least suspect
+what was going on. To such a close-planned act of villainy, my mind being
+entirely free from any suspicion, it is not wonderful that I fell a
+sacrifice. Perhaps if there had been marines on board a sentinel at my
+cabin-door might have prevented it; for I slept with the door always open
+that the officer of the watch might have access to me on all occasions,
+the possibility of such a conspiracy being ever the farthest from my
+thoughts. Had their mutiny been occasioned by any grievances, either real
+or imaginary, I must have discovered symptoms of their discontent, which
+would have put me on my guard: but the case was far otherwise. Christian
+in particular I was on the most friendly terms with: that very day he was
+engaged to have dined with me, and the preceding night he excused himself
+from supping with me on pretence of being unwell; for which I felt
+concerned, having no suspicions of his integrity and honour.
+
+
+CHAPTER 14.
+
+Proceed in the Launch to the Island Tofoa.
+Difficulty in obtaining Supplies there.
+Treacherous Attack of the Natives.
+Escape to Sea and bear away for New Holland.
+
+1789. April.
+
+My first determination was to seek a supply of breadfruit and water at
+Tofoa, and afterwards to sail for Tongataboo, and there risk a
+solicitation to Poulaho the king to equip our boat and grant us a supply
+of water and provisions, so as to enable us to reach the East Indies.
+
+The quantity of provisions I found in the boat was 150 pounds of bread,
+16 pieces of pork, each piece weighing 2 pounds, 6 quarts of rum, 6
+bottles of wine, with 28 gallons of water, and four empty barrecoes.
+
+Fortunately it was calm all the afternoon till about four o'clock, when
+we were so far to windward that, with a moderate easterly breeze which
+sprung up, we were able to sail. It was nevertheless dark when we got to
+Tofoa where I expected to land, but the shore proved to be so steep and
+rocky that we were obliged to give up all thoughts of it and keep the
+boat under the lee of the island with two oars, for there was no
+anchorage. Having fixed on this mode of proceeding for the night I served
+to every person half a pint of grog, and each took to his rest as well as
+our unhappy situation would allow.
+
+Wednesday 29.
+
+In the morning at dawn of day we rowed along shore in search of a
+landing-place, and about ten o'clock we discovered a cove with a stony
+beach at the north-west part of the island, where I dropped the grapnel
+within 20 yards of the rocks. A great surf ran on the shore but, as I was
+unwilling to diminish our stock of provisions, I landed Mr. Samuel and
+some others, who climbed the cliffs and got into the country to search
+for supplies. The rest of us remained at the cove, not discovering any
+other way into the country than that by which Mr. Samuel had proceeded.
+It was great consolation to me to find that the spirits of my people did
+not sink, notwithstanding our miserable and almost hopeless situation.
+Towards noon Mr. Samuel returned with a few quarts of water which he had
+found in holes; but he had met with no spring or any prospect of a
+sufficient supply in that particular, and had seen only the signs of
+inhabitants. As it was uncertain what might be our future necessities I
+only issued a morsel of bread and a glass of wine to each person for
+dinner.
+
+I observed the latitude of this cove to be 19 degrees 41 minutes south.
+This is the north-west part of Tofoa, the north-westernmost of the
+Friendly Islands.
+
+The weather was fair but the wind blew so strong from the east-south-east
+that we could not venture to sea. Our detention made it absolutely
+necessary to endeavour to obtain something towards our support; for I
+determined if possible to keep our first stock entire. We therefore
+weighed and rowed along shore to see if anything could be got; and at
+last discovered some coconut trees; but they were on the top of high
+precipices and the surf made it dangerous landing: both one and the other
+we however got the better of. Some of the people with much difficulty
+climbed the cliffs and got about 20 coconuts, and others flung them to
+ropes, by which we hauled them through the surf into the boat. This was
+all that could be done here and, as I found no place so safe as the one
+we had left to spend the night at, I returned to the cove and, having
+served a coconut to each person, we went to rest again in the boat.
+
+Thursday 30.
+
+At daylight we attempted to put to sea; but the wind and weather proved
+so bad that I was glad to return to our former station where, after
+issuing a morsel of bread and a spoonful of rum to each person, we
+landed, and I went off with Mr. Nelson, Mr. Samuel, and some others, into
+the country, having hauled ourselves up the precipice by long vines which
+were fixed there by the natives for that purpose, this being the only way
+into the country.
+
+We found a few deserted huts and a small plantain walk but little taken
+care of, from which we could only collect three small bunches of
+plantains. After passing this place we came to a deep gully that led
+towards a mountain near a volcano and, as I conceived that in the rainy
+season very great torrents of water must pass through it, we hoped to
+find sufficient for our use remaining in some holes of the rocks; but
+after all our search the whole that we collected was only nine gallons.
+We advanced within two miles of the foot of the highest mountain in the
+island, on which is the volcano that is almost constantly burning. The
+country near it is covered with lava and has a most dreary appearance. As
+we had not been fortunate in our discoveries, and saw nothing to
+alleviate our distresses except the plantains and water above-mentioned,
+we returned to the boat exceedingly fatigued and faint. When I came to
+the precipice whence we were to descend into the cove I was seized with
+such a dizziness in my head that I thought it scarce possible to effect
+it: however by the assistance of Nelson and others they at last got me
+down, in a weak condition. Every person being returned by noon I gave
+about an ounce of pork and two plantains to each, with half a glass of
+wine. I again observed the latitude of this place 19 degrees 41 minutes
+south. The people who remained by the boat I had directed to look for
+fish or what they could pick up about the rocks; but nothing eatable
+could be found: so that upon the whole we considered ourselves on as
+miserable a spot of land as could well be imagined.
+
+I could not say positively from the former knowledge I had of this island
+whether it was inhabited or not; but I knew it was considered inferior to
+the other islands, and I was not certain but that the Indians only
+resorted to it at particular times. I was very anxious to ascertain this
+point for, in case there had been only a few people here, and those could
+have furnished us with but very moderate supplies, the remaining in this
+spot to have made preparations for our voyage would have been preferable
+to the risk of going amongst multitudes, where perhaps we might lose
+everything. A party therefore sufficiently strong I determined should go
+another route as soon as the sun became lower, and they cheerfully
+undertook it.
+
+About two o'clock in the afternoon the party set out but, after suffering
+much fatigue, they returned in the evening without any kind of success.
+
+At the head of the cove about 150 yards from the waterside there was a
+cave; the distance across the stony beach was about 100 yards, and from
+the country into the cove there was no other way than that which I have
+already described. The situation secured us from the danger of being
+surprised, and I determined to remain on shore for the night with a part
+of my people that the others might have more room to rest in the boat
+with the master, whom I directed to lie at a grapnel and be watchful in
+case we should be attacked. I ordered one plantain for each person to be
+boiled and, having supped on this scanty allowance with a quarter of a
+pint of grog, and fixed the watches for the night, those whose turn it
+was laid down to sleep in the cave, before which we kept up a good fire
+yet notwithstanding we were much troubled with flies and mosquitoes.
+
+May. Friday 1.
+
+At dawn of day the party set out again in a different route to see what
+they could find, in the course of which they suffered greatly for want of
+water: they however met with two men, a woman, and a child: the men came
+with them to the cove and brought two coconut shells of water. I
+endeavoured to make friends of these people and sent them away for
+breadfruit, plantains, and water. Soon after other natives came to us;
+and by noon there were thirty about us, from whom we obtained a small
+supply; but I could only afford one ounce of pork and a quarter of a
+breadfruit to each man for dinner, with half a pint of water, for I was
+fixed in my resolution not to use any of the bread or water in the boat.
+
+No particular chief was yet among the natives: they were notwithstanding
+tractable, and behaved honestly, exchanging the provisions they brought
+for a few buttons and beads. The party who had been out informed me of
+their having seen several neat plantations, so that it remained no longer
+a doubt of there being settled inhabitants on the island, for which
+reason I determined to get what I could, and to sail the first moment
+that the wind and weather would allow us to put to sea.
+
+I was much puzzled in what manner to account to the natives for the loss
+of my ship: I knew they had too much sense to be amused with a story that
+the ship was to join me, when she was not in sight from the hills. I was
+at first doubtful whether I should tell the real fact or say that the
+ship had overset and sunk, and that we only were saved: the latter
+appeared to be the most proper and advantageous for us, and I accordingly
+instructed my people, that we might all agree in one story. As I expected
+enquiries were made about the ship, and they seemed readily satisfied
+with our account; but there did not appear the least symptom of joy or
+sorrow in their faces, although I fancied I discovered some marks of
+surprise. Some of the natives were coming and going the whole afternoon,
+and we got enough of breadfruit, plantains, and coconuts for another day;
+but of water they only brought us about five pints. A canoe also came in
+with four men and brought a few coconuts and breadfruit which I bought as
+I had done the rest. Nails were much enquired after, but I would not
+suffer any to be shown as they were wanted for the use of the boat.
+
+Towards evening I had the satisfaction to find our stock of provisions
+somewhat increased, but the natives did not appear to have much to spare.
+What they brought was in such small quantities that I had no reason to
+hope we should be able to procure from them sufficient to stock us for
+our voyage. At sunset all the natives left us in quiet possession of the
+cove. I thought this a good sign, and made no doubt that they would come
+again the next day with a better supply of food and water, with which I
+hoped to sail without farther delay: for if in attempting to get to
+Tongataboo we should be driven to leeward of the islands there would be a
+larger quantity of provisions to support us against such a misfortune.
+
+At night I served a quarter of a breadfruit and a coconut to each person
+for supper and, a good fire being made, all but the watch went to sleep.
+
+Saturday 2.
+
+At daybreak the next morning I was pleased to find everyone's spirits a
+little revived, and that they no longer regarded me with those anxious
+looks which had constantly been directed towards me since we lost sight
+of the ship: every countenance appeared to have a degree of cheerfulness,
+and they all seemed determined to do their best.
+
+As there was no certainty of our being supplied with water by the natives
+I sent a party among the gullies in the mountains with empty shells to
+see what could be found. In their absence the natives came about us as I
+expected, and in greater numbers; two canoes also came in from round the
+north side of the island. In one of them was an elderly chief called
+Maccaackavow. Soon after some of our foraging party returned, and with
+them came a good-looking chief called Egijeefow, or perhaps more properly
+Eefow, Egij or Eghee, signifying a chief. To each of these men I made a
+present of an old shirt and a knife, and I soon found they either had
+seen me or had heard of my being at Annamooka. They knew I had been with
+captain Cook, who they inquired after, and also captain Clerk. They were
+very inquisitive to know in what manner I had lost my ship. During this
+conversation a young man named Nageete appeared, whom I remembered to
+have seen at Annamooka: he expressed much pleasure at our meeting. I
+enquired after Poulaho and Feenow, who they said were at Tongataboo; and
+Eefow agreed to accompany me thither if I would wait till the weather
+moderated. The readiness and affability of this man gave me much
+satisfaction.
+
+This however was but of short duration for the natives began to increase
+in number and I observed some symptoms of a design against us. Soon after
+they attempted to haul the boat on shore, on which I brandished my
+cutlass in a threatening manner and spoke to Eefow to desire them to
+desist, which they did and everything became quiet again. My people who
+had been in the mountains now returned with about three gallons of water.
+I kept buying up the little breadfruit that was brought to us, and
+likewise some spears to arm my men with, having only four cutlasses, two
+of which were in the boat. As we had no means of improving our situation
+I told our people I would wait till sunset, by which time perhaps
+something might happen in our favour: for if we attempted to go at
+present we must fight our way through, which we could do more
+advantageously at night; and that in the meantime we would endeavour to
+get off to the boat what we had bought. The beach was lined with the
+natives and we heard nothing but the knocking of stones together, which
+they had in each hand. I knew very well this was the sign of an attack.
+At noon I served a coconut and a breadfruit to each person for dinner,
+and gave some to the chiefs, with whom I continued to appear intimate and
+friendly. They frequently importuned me to sit down but I as constantly
+refused: for it occurred both to Nelson and myself that the intended to
+seize hold of me if I gave them such an opportunity. Keeping therefore
+constantly on our guard we were suffered to eat our uncomfortable meal in
+some quietness.
+
+After dinner we began by little and little to get our things into the
+boat, which was a troublesome business on account of the surf. I
+carefully watched the motions of the natives, who continued to increase
+in number, and found that, instead of their intention being to leave us,
+fires were made, and places fixed on for their stay during the night.
+Consultations were also held among them and everything assured me we
+should be attacked. I sent orders to the master that when he saw us
+coming down he should keep the boat close to the shore that we might the
+more readily embark.
+
+I had my journal on shore with me, writing the occurrences in the cave
+and in sending it down to the boat, it was nearly snatched away but for
+the timely assistance of the gunner.
+
+The sun was near setting when I gave the word, on which every person who
+was on shore with me boldly took up his proportion of things and carried
+them to the boat. The chiefs asked me if I would not stay with them all
+night. I said: "No, I never sleep out of my boat; but in the morning we
+will again trade with you, and I shall remain till the weather is
+moderate that we may go, as we have agreed, to see Poulaho at
+Tongataboo." Maccaackavow then got up and said: "You will not sleep on
+shore? then Mattie" (which directly signifies we will kill you) and he
+left me. The onset was now preparing; everyone as I have described before
+kept knocking stones together, and Eefow quitted me. All but two or three
+things were in the boat, when I took Nageete by the hand, and we walked
+down the beach, everyone in a silent kind of horror.
+
+While I was seeing the people embark Nageete wanted me to stay to speak
+to Eefow, but I found he was encouraging them to the attack, and it was
+my determination if they had then begun to have killed him for his
+treacherous behaviour. I ordered the carpenter not to quit me till the
+other people were in the boat. Nageete, finding I would not stay, loosed
+himself from my hold and went off, and we all got into the boat except
+one man who, while I was getting on board, quitted it and ran up the
+beach to cast the stern fast off, notwithstanding the master and others
+called to him to return while they were hauling me out of the water.
+
+I was no sooner in the boat than the attack began by about 200 men; the
+unfortunate poor man who had run up the beach was knocked down, and the
+stones flew like a shower of shot. Many Indians got hold of the stern
+rope and were near hauling the boat on shore, which they would certainly
+have effected if I had not had a knife in my pocket with which I cut the
+rope. We then hauled off to the grapnel, everyone being more or less
+hurt. At this time I saw five of the natives about the poor man they had
+killed, and two of them were beating him about the head with stones in
+their hands.
+
+We had no time to reflect for to my surprise they filled their canoes
+with stones, and twelve men came off after us to renew the attack, which
+they did so effectually as nearly to disable us all. Our grapnel was foul
+but Providence here assisted us; the fluke broke and we got to our oars
+and pulled to sea. They however could paddle round us, so that we were
+obliged to sustain the attack without being able to return it, except
+with such stones as lodged in the boat, and in this I found we were very
+inferior to them. We could not close because our boat was lumbered and
+heavy, of which they knew how to take advantage: I therefore adopted the
+expedient of throwing overboard some clothes which, as I expected, they
+stopped to pick up and, as it was by this time almost dark, they gave
+over the attack and returned towards the shore leaving us to reflect on
+our unhappy situation.
+
+The poor man killed by the natives was John Norton: this was his second
+voyage with me as a quartermaster, and his worthy character made me
+lament his loss very much. He has left an aged parent I am told, whom he
+supported.
+
+I once before sustained an attack of a similar nature with a smaller
+number of Europeans against a multitude of Indians: it was after the
+death of Captain Cook on the Morai at Owhyhee, where I was left by
+Lieutenant King. Yet notwithstanding this experience I had not an idea
+that the power of a man's arm could throw stones from two to eight pounds
+weight with such force and exactness as these people did. Here unhappily
+we were without firearms, which the Indians knew; and it was a fortunate
+circumstance that they did not begin to attack us in the cave; for in
+that case our destruction must have been inevitable, and we should have
+had nothing left for it but to sell our lives as dearly as we could, in
+which I found everyone cheerfully disposed to concur. This appearance of
+resolution deterred them, supposing that they could effect their purpose
+without risk after we were in the boat.
+
+Taking this as a sample of the disposition of the natives there was but
+little reason to expect much benefit by persevering in the intention of
+visiting Poulaho; for I considered their good behaviour formerly to have
+proceeded from a dread of our firearms, and which therefore was likely to
+cease, as they knew we were now destitute of them: and even supposing our
+lives not in danger the boat and everything we had would most probably be
+taken from us, and thereby all hopes precluded of ever being able to
+return to our native country.
+
+We set our sails and steered along shore by the west side of the island
+Tofoa, the wind blowing fresh from the eastward. My mind was employed in
+considering what was best to be done when I was solicited by all hands to
+take them towards home: and when I told them that no hopes of relief for
+us remained (except what might be found at New Holland) till I came to
+Timor, a distance of full 1200 leagues, where there was a Dutch
+settlement, but in what part of the island I knew not, they all agreed to
+live on one ounce of bread and a quarter of a pint of water per day.
+Therefore after examining our stock of provisions and recommending to
+them in the most solemn manner not to depart from their promise, we bore
+away across a sea where the navigation is but little known, in a small
+boat twenty-three feet long from stem to stern, deep laden with eighteen
+men. I was happy however to see that everyone seemed better satisfied
+with our situation than myself.
+
+Our stock of provisions consisted of about one hundred and fifty pounds
+of bread, twenty-eight gallons of water, twenty pounds of pork, three
+bottles of wine, and five quarts of rum. The difference between this and
+the quantity we had on leaving the ship was principally owing to our loss
+in the bustle and confusion of the attack. A few coconuts were in the
+boat and some breadfruit, but the latter was trampled to pieces.
+
+
+CHAPTER 15.
+
+Passage towards New Holland.
+Islands discovered in our Route.
+Our great Distresses.
+See the Reefs of New Holland and find a Passage through them.
+
+1789. May.
+
+It was about eight o'clock at night when we bore away under a reefed lug
+fore-sail and, having divided the people into watches and got the boat in
+a little order, we returned God thanks for our miraculous preservation
+and, fully confident of his gracious support, I found my mind more at
+ease than it had been for some time past.
+
+Sunday 3.
+
+At daybreak the gale increased; the sun rose very fiery and red, a sure
+indication of a severe gale of wind. At eight it blew a violent storm and
+the sea ran very high, so that between the seas the sail was becalmed,
+and when on the top of the sea it was too much to have set: but we could
+not venture to take in the sail for we were in very imminent danger and
+distress, the sea curling over the stern of the boat, which obliged us to
+bale with all our might. A situation more distressing has perhaps seldom
+been experienced.
+
+Our bread was in bags and in danger of being spoiled by the wet: to be
+starved to death was inevitable if this could not be prevented: I
+therefore began to examine what clothes there were in the boat and what
+other things could be spared and, having determined that only two suits
+should be kept for each person, the rest was thrown overboard with some
+rope and spare sails, which lightened the boat considerably, and we had
+more room to bale the water out. Fortunately the carpenter had a good
+chest in the boat, in which we secured the bread the first favourable
+moment. His tool chest also was cleared and the tools stowed in the
+bottom of the boat so that this became a second convenience.
+
+I served a teaspoonful of rum to each person (for we were very wet and
+cold) with a quarter of a breadfruit, which was scarce eatable, for
+dinner: our engagement was now strictly to be carried into execution, and
+I was fully determined to make our provisions last eight weeks, let the
+daily proportion be ever so small.
+
+At noon I considered our course and distance from Tofoa to be
+west-north-west three-quarters west 86 miles, latitude 19 degrees 27
+minutes south. I directed the course to the west-north-west that we might
+get a sight of the islands called Feejee if they laid in the direction
+the natives had pointed out to me.
+
+The weather continued very severe, the wind veering from north-east to
+east-south-east. The sea ran higher than in the forenoon, and the fatigue
+of baling to keep the boat from filling was exceedingly great. We could
+do nothing more than keep before the sea, in the course of which the boat
+performed so well that I no longer dreaded any danger in that respect.
+But, among the hardships we were to undergo, that of being constantly wet
+was not the least.
+
+Monday 4.
+
+The night was very cold and at daylight our limbs were so benumbed that
+we could scarce find the use of them. At this time I served a teaspoonful
+of rum to each person, from which we all found great benefit.
+
+As I have mentioned before I determined to keep to the west-north-west
+till I got more to the northward, for I not only expected to have better
+weather but to see the Feejee Islands, as I have often understood from
+the natives of Annamooka that they lie in that direction. Captain Cook
+likewise considered them to be north-west by west from Tongataboo. Just
+before noon we discovered a small flat island of a moderate height
+bearing west-south-west 4 or 5 leagues. I observed our latitude to be 18
+degrees 58 minutes south; our longitude was by account 3 degrees 4
+minutes west from the island of Tofoa, having made a north 72 degrees
+west course, distance 95 miles, since yesterday noon. I divided five
+small coconuts for our dinner and everyone was satisfied.
+
+A little after noon other islands appeared, and at a quarter past three
+o'clock we could count eight, bearing from south round by the west to
+north-west by north, those to the south which were the nearest being four
+leagues distant from us.
+
+I kept my course to the north-west by west between the islands, the gale
+having considerably abated. At six o'clock we discovered three other
+small islands to the north-west, the westernmost of them bore north-west
+half west 7 leagues. I steered to the southward of these islands a
+west-north-west course for the night under a reefed sail.
+
+Served a few broken pieces of breadfruit for supper and performed
+prayers.
+
+The night turned out fair and, having had tolerable rest, everyone seemed
+considerably better in the morning, and contentedly breakfasted on a few
+pieces of yams that were found in the boat. After breakfast we examined
+our bread, a great deal of which was damaged and rotten; this
+nevertheless we were glad to keep for use.
+
+I had hitherto been scarcely able to keep any account of our run, but we
+now equipped ourselves a little better by getting a log-line marked and,
+having practised at counting seconds, several could do it with some
+degree of exactness.
+
+The islands we had passed lie between the latitude of 19 degrees 5
+minutes south and 18 degrees 19 minutes south, and according to my
+reckoning from 3 degrees 17 minutes to 3 degrees 46 minutes west
+longitude from the island Tofoa: the largest may be about six leagues in
+circuit; but it is impossible for me to be very correct. To show where
+they are to be found again is the most my situation enabled me to do. The
+sketch I have made will give a comparative view of their extent. I
+believe all the larger islands are inhabited as they appeared very
+fertile.
+
+At noon I observed in latitude 18 degrees 10 seconds south and considered
+my course and distance from yesterday noon north-west by west half west
+94 miles; longitude by account from Tofoa 4 degrees 29 minutes west.
+
+For dinner I served some of the damaged bread and a quarter of a pint of
+water.
+
+About six o'clock in the afternoon we discovered two islands, one bearing
+west by south 6 leagues and the other north-west by north 8 leagues; I
+kept to windward of the northernmost and, passing it by 10 o'clock, I
+resumed our course to the north-west and west-north-west for the night.
+
+Wednesday 6.
+
+The weather was fair and the wind moderate all day from the
+east-north-east. At daylight a number of other islands were in sight from
+south-south-east to the west and round to north-east by east; between
+those in the north-west I determined to pass. At noon a small sandy
+island or key two miles distant from me bore from east to south
+three-quarters west. I had passed ten islands, the largest of which I
+judged to be 6 or 8 leagues in circuit. Much larger lands appeared in the
+south-west and north-north-west, between which I directed my course.
+Latitude observed 17 degrees 17 minutes south; course since yesterday
+noon north 50 degrees west; distance 84 miles; longitude made by account
+5 degrees 37 minutes west.
+
+Our allowance for the day was a quarter of a pint of coconut milk and the
+meat, which did not exceed two ounces to each person: it was received
+very contentedly but we suffered great drought. I durst not venture to
+land as we had no arms and were less capable of defending ourselves than
+we were at Tofoa.
+
+To keep an account of the boat's run was rendered difficult from being
+constantly wet with the sea breaking over us but, as we advanced towards
+the land, the sea became smoother and I was enabled to form a sketch of
+the islands which will serve to give a general knowledge of their extent
+and position. Those we were near appeared fruitful and hilly, some very
+mountainous and all of a good height.
+
+To our great joy we hooked a fish, but we were miserably disappointed by
+its being lost in trying to get it into the boat.
+
+We continued steering to the north-west between the islands which by the
+evening appeared of considerable extent, woody and mountainous. At sunset
+the southernmost bore from south to south-west by west and the
+northernmost from north by west half west to north-east half east. At six
+o'clock we were nearly midway between them and about 6 leagues distant
+from each shore when we fell in with a coral bank, on which we had only
+four feet water, without the least break on it or ruffle of the sea to
+give us warning. I could see that it extended about a mile on each side
+of us, but as it is probable that it may extend much further I have laid
+it down so in my sketch.
+
+I directed the course west by north for the night, and served to each
+person an ounce of the damaged bread and a quarter of a pint of water for
+supper.
+
+As our lodgings were very miserable and confined for want of room I
+endeavoured to remedy the latter defect by putting ourselves at watch and
+watch; so that one half always sat up while the other lay down on the
+boat's bottom or upon a chest, with nothing to cover us but the heavens.
+Our limbs were dreadfully cramped for we could not stretch them out, and
+the nights were so cold, and we so constantly wet, that after a few hours
+sleep we could scarce move.
+
+Thursday 7.
+
+At dawn of day we again discovered land from west-south-west to
+west-north-west, and another island north-north-west, the latter a high
+round lump of but little extent: the southern land that we had passed in
+the night was still in sight. Being very wet and cold I served a spoonful
+of rum and a morsel of bread for breakfast.
+
+The land in the west was distinguished by some extraordinary high rocks
+which, as we approached them, assumed a variety of forms. The country
+appeared to be agreeably interspersed with high and low land, and in some
+places covered with wood. Off the north-east part lay some small rocky
+islands, between which and an island 4 leagues to the north-east I
+directed my course; but a lee current very unexpectedly set us very near
+to the rocky isles, and we could only get clear of it by rowing, passing
+close to the reef that surrounded them. At this time we observed two
+large sailing canoes coming swiftly after us along shore and, being
+apprehensive of their intentions, we rowed with some anxiety, fully
+sensible of our weak and defenceless state. At noon it was calm and the
+weather cloudy; my latitude is therefore doubtful to 3 or 4 miles. Our
+course since yesterday noon north-west by west, distance 79 miles;
+latitude by account 16 degrees 29 minutes south, and longitude by account
+from Tofoa 6 degrees 46 minutes west. Being constantly wet it was with
+the utmost difficulty I could open a book to write, and I am sensible
+that what I have done can only serve to point out where these lands are
+to be found again, and give an idea of their extent.
+
+All the afternoon we had light winds at north-north-east: the weather was
+very rainy, attended with thunder and lightning. Only one of the canoes
+gained upon us, which by three o'clock in the afternoon was not more than
+two miles off, when she gave over chase.
+
+If I may judge from the sail of these vessels they are of a similar
+construction with those at the Friendly Islands which, with the nearness
+of their situation, gives reason to believe that they are the same kind
+of people. Whether these canoes had any hostile intention against us must
+remain a doubt: perhaps we might have benefited by an intercourse with
+them, but in our defenceless situation to have made the experiment would
+have been risking too much.
+
+I imagine these to be the islands called Feejee as their extent,
+direction, and distance from the Friendly Islands answers to the
+description given of them by those Islanders. Heavy rain came on at four
+o'clock, when every person did their utmost to catch some water, and we
+increased our stock to 34 gallons, besides quenching our thirst for the
+first time since we had been at sea; but an attendant consequence made us
+pass the night very miserably for, being extremely wet and having no dry
+things to shift or cover us, we experienced cold and shiverings scarce to
+be conceived. Most fortunately for us the forenoon turned out fair and we
+stripped and dried our clothes. The allowance I issued today was an ounce
+and a half of pork, a teaspoonful of rum, half a pint of coconut milk,
+and an ounce of bread. The rum though so small in quantity was of the
+greatest service. A fishing-line was generally towing from the stern of
+the boat but though we saw great numbers of fish we could never catch
+one.
+
+At noon I observed in latitude 16 degrees 4 minutes south and found we
+had made a course from yesterday noon north 62 degrees west distance 62
+miles; longitude by account from Tofoa 7 degrees 42 minutes west.
+
+The land passed yesterday and the day before is a group of islands, 14 or
+16 in number, lying between the latitude of 16 degrees 26 minutes south
+and 17 degrees 57 minutes south, and in longitude by my account 4 degrees
+47 minutes to 7 degrees 17 minutes west from Tofoa. Three of these
+islands are very large, having from 30 to 40 leagues of sea-coast.
+
+In the afternoon we cleaned out the boat and it employed us till sunset
+to get everything dry and in order. Hitherto I had issued the allowance
+by guess, but I now made a pair of scales with two coconut shells and,
+having accidentally some pistol-balls in the boat, 25 of which weighed
+one pound or 16 ounces, I adopted one,* as the proportion of weight that
+each person should receive of bread at the times I served it. I also
+amused all hands with describing the situation of New Guinea and New
+Holland, and gave them every information in my power that in case any
+accident happened to me those who survived might have some idea of what
+they were about, and be able to find their way to Timor, which at present
+they knew nothing of more than the name and some not even that. At night
+I served a quarter of a pint of water and half an ounce of bread for
+supper.
+
+(*Footnote. It weighed 272 grains.)
+
+Saturday 9.
+
+In the morning a quarter of a pint of coconut milk and some of the
+decayed bread was served for breakfast, and for dinner I divided the meat
+of four coconuts with the remainder of the rotten bread, which was only
+eatable by such distressed people.
+
+At noon I observed the latitude to be 15 degrees 47 minutes south; course
+since yesterday north 75 degrees west distance 64 miles; longitude made
+by account 8 degrees 45 minutes west.
+
+In the afternoon I fitted a pair of shrouds for each mast, and contrived
+a canvas weather cloth round the boat, and raised the quarters about nine
+inches by nailing on the seats of the stern sheets, which proved of great
+benefit to us.
+
+The wind had been moderate all day in the south-east quarter with fine
+weather; but about nine o'clock in the evening the clouds began to
+gather, and we had a prodigious fall of rain with severe thunder and
+lightning. By midnight we caught about twenty gallons of water. Being
+miserably wet and cold I served to the people a teaspoonful of rum each
+to enable them to bear with their distressed situation. The weather
+continued extremely bad and the wind increased; we spent a very miserable
+night without sleep except such as could be got in the midst of rain. The
+day brought no relief but its light. The sea broke over us so much that
+two men were constantly baling; and we had no choice how to steer, being
+obliged to keep before the waves for fear of the boat filling.
+
+The allowance now regularly served to each person was one 25th of a pound
+of bread and a quarter of a pint of water, at eight in the morning, at
+noon, and at sunset. Today I gave about half an ounce of pork for dinner
+which, though any moderate person would have considered only as a
+mouthful, was divided into three or four.
+
+The rain abated towards noon and I observed the latitude to be 15 degrees
+17 minutes south; course north 67 degrees west distance 78 miles;
+longitude made 10 degrees west.
+
+The wind continued strong from south-south-east to south-east with very
+squally weather and a high breaking sea, so that we were miserably wet
+and suffered great cold in the night.
+
+Monday 11.
+
+In the morning at daybreak I served to every person a teaspoonful of rum,
+our limbs being so cramped that we could scarce move them. Our situation
+was now extremely dangerous, the sea frequently running over our stern,
+which kept us baling with all our strength.
+
+At noon the sun appeared, which gave us as much pleasure as in a winter's
+day in England. I issued the 25th of a pound of bread and a quarter of a
+pint of water, as yesterday. Latitude observed 14 degrees 50 minutes
+south; course north 71 degrees west distance 102 miles; and longitude by
+account 11 degrees 39 minutes west from Tofoa.
+
+In the evening it rained hard and we again experienced a dreadful night.
+
+Tuesday 12.
+
+At length the day came and showed to me a miserable set of beings, full
+of wants, without anything to relieve them. Some complained of great pain
+in their bowels, and everyone of having almost lost the use of his limbs.
+The little sleep we got was no ways refreshing as we were covered with
+sea and rain. I served a spoonful of rum at day-dawn, and the usual
+allowance of bread and water for breakfast, dinner, and supper.
+
+At noon it was almost calm, no sun to be seen, and some of us shivering
+with cold. Course since yesterday west by north distance 89 miles;
+latitude by account 14 degrees 33 minutes south; longitude made 13
+degrees 9 minutes west. The direction of our course was to pass to the
+northward of the New Hebrides.
+
+The wet weather continued and in the afternoon the wind came from the
+southward, blowing fresh in squalls. As there was no prospect of getting
+our clothes dried I recommended to everyone to strip and wring them
+through the salt water, by which means they received a warmth that while
+wet with rain they could not have.
+
+This afternoon we saw a kind of fruit on the water which Nelson told me
+was the Barringtonia of Forster and, as I saw the same again in the
+morning, and some men-of-war birds, I was led to believe that we were not
+far from land.
+
+We continued constantly shipping seas and baling, and were very wet and
+cold in the night; but I could not afford the allowance of rum at
+daybreak.
+
+Wednesday 13.
+
+At noon I had a sight of the sun, latitude 14 degrees 17 minutes south.
+Course west by north 79 miles; longitude made 14 degrees 28 minutes west.
+All this day we were constantly shipping water and suffered much cold and
+shiverings in the night.
+
+Thursday 14.
+
+Fresh gales at south-east and gloomy weather with rain and a high sea. At
+six in the morning we saw land from south-west by south eight leagues to
+north-west by west three-quarters west six leagues, which soon after
+appeared to be four islands, one of them much larger than the others, and
+all of them high and remarkable. At noon we discovered a small island and
+some rocks bearing north-west by north four leagues, and another island
+west eight leagues, so that the whole were six in number; the four I had
+first seen bearing from south half east to south-west by south; our
+distance three leagues from the nearest island. My latitude observed was
+13 degrees 29 minutes south, and longitude by account from Tofoa 15
+degrees 49 minutes west; course since yesterday noon north 63 degrees
+west distance 89 miles. At four in the afternoon we passed the
+westernmost island.
+
+Friday 15.
+
+At one in the morning another island was discovered bearing
+west-north-west five leagues distance, and at eight o'clock we saw it for
+the last time bearing north-east seven leagues. A number of gannets,
+boobies, and men-of-war birds were seen.
+
+These islands lie between the latitude of 13 degrees 16 minutes and 14
+degrees 10 minutes south: their longitude according to my reckoning 15
+degrees 51 minutes to 17 degrees 6 minutes west from the island Tofoa.*
+The largest island I judged to be about twenty leagues in circuit, the
+others five or six. The easternmost is the smallest island and most
+remarkable, having a high sugar loaf hill.
+
+(*Footnote. By making a proportional allowance for the error afterwards
+found in the dead reckoning I estimate the longitude of these islands to
+be from 167 degrees 17 minutes east to 168 degrees 34 minutes east from
+Greenwich.)
+
+The sight of these islands served only to increase the misery of our
+situation. We were very little better than starving with plenty in view;
+yet to attempt procuring any relief was attended with so much danger that
+prolonging of life, even in the midst of misery, was thought preferable,
+while there remained hopes of being able to surmount our hardships. For
+my own part I consider the general run of cloudy and wet weather to be a
+blessing of Providence. Hot weather would have caused us to have died
+with thirst; and probably being so constantly covered with rain or sea
+protected us from that dreadful calamity.
+
+As I had nothing to assist my memory I could not then determine whether
+these islands were a part of the New Hebrides or not: I believe them to
+be a new discovery which I have since found true but, though they were
+not seen either by Monsieur Bougainville or Captain Cook, they are so
+nearly in the neighbourhood of the New Hebrides that they must be
+considered as part of the same group. They are fertile and inhabited, as
+I saw smoke in several places.
+
+The wind was at south-east with rainy weather all day. The night was very
+dark, not a star could be seen to steer by, and the sea broke continually
+over us. I found it necessary to counteract as much as possible the
+effect of the southerly winds to prevent being driven too near New
+Guinea, for in general we were forced to keep so much before the sea that
+if we had not, at intervals of moderate weather, steered a more southerly
+course we should inevitably from a continuance of the gales have been
+thrown in sight of that coast: in which case there would most probably
+have been an end to our voyage.
+
+Saturday 16.
+
+In addition to our miserable allowance of one 25th of a pound of bread
+and a quarter of a pint of water I issued for dinner about an ounce of
+salt pork to each person. I was often solicited for this pork, but I
+considered it more proper to issue it in small quantities than to suffer
+it to be all used at once or twice, which would have been done if I had
+allowed it.
+
+At noon I observed in 13 degrees 33 minutes south, longitude made from
+Tofoa 19 degrees 27 minutes west; course north 82 degrees west, distance
+101 miles. The sun breaking out through the clouds gave us hopes of
+drying our wet clothes, but the sunshine was of short duration. We had
+strong breezes at south-east by south and dark gloomy weather with storms
+of thunder, lightning, and rain. The night was truly horrible, and not a
+star to be seen; so that our steerage was uncertain.
+
+Sunday 17.
+
+At dawn of day I found every person complaining, and some of them
+solicited extra allowance, which I positively refused. Our situation was
+miserable: always wet, and suffering extreme cold in the night without
+the least shelter from the weather. Being constantly obliged to bale to
+keep the boat from filling was perhaps not to be reckoned an evil as it
+gave us exercise.
+
+The little rum we had was of great service: when our nights were
+particularly distressing I generally served a teaspoonful or two to each
+person: and it was always joyful tidings when they heard of my
+intentions.
+
+At noon a water-spout was very near on board of us. I issued an ounce of
+pork in addition to the allowance of bread and water; but before we began
+to eat every person stripped and, having wrung their clothes through the
+seawater, found much warmth and refreshment. Course since yesterday noon
+west-south-west distance 100 miles; latitude by account 14 degrees 11
+minutes south and longitude made 21 degrees 3 minutes west.
+
+The night was dark and dismal: the sea constantly breaking over us and
+nothing but the wind and waves to direct our steerage. It was my
+intention if possible to make New Holland to the southward of Endeavour
+straits, being sensible that it was necessary to preserve such a
+situation as would make a southerly wind a fair one, that we might range
+along the reefs till an opening should be found into smooth water, and we
+the sooner be able to pick up some refreshments.
+
+Monday 18.
+
+In the morning the rain abated, when we stripped and wrung our clothes
+through the seawater as usual, which refreshed us greatly. Every person
+complained of violent pain in their bones; I was only surprised that no
+one was yet laid up. The customary allowance of one 25th of a pound of
+bread and a quarter of a pint of water was served at breakfast, dinner,
+and supper.
+
+At noon I deduced my situation by account, for we had no glimpse of the
+sun, to be in latitude 14 degrees 52 minutes south; course since
+yesterday noon west-south-west 106 miles; longitude made from Tofoa 22
+degrees 45 minutes west. Saw many boobies and noddies, a sign of being in
+the neighbourhood of land. In the night we had very severe lightning with
+heavy rain and were obliged to keep baling without intermission.
+
+Tuesday 19.
+
+Very bad weather and constant rain. At noon latitude by account 14
+degrees 37 minutes south; course since yesterday north 81 degrees west,
+distance 100 miles; longitude made 24 degrees 30 minutes west. With the
+allowance of bread and water served half an ounce of pork to each person
+for dinner.
+
+Wednesday 20.
+
+Fresh breezes east-north-east with constant rain, at times a deluge.
+Always baling.
+
+At dawn of day some of my people seemed half dead: our appearances were
+horrible, and I could look no way but I caught the eye of someone in
+distress. Extreme hunger was now too evident, but no one suffered from
+thirst, nor had we much inclination to drink, that desire perhaps being
+satisfied through the skin. The little sleep we got was in the midst of
+water, and we constantly awoke with severe cramps and pains in our bones.
+This morning I served about two teaspoonfuls of rum to each person and
+the allowance of bread and water as usual. At noon the sun broke out and
+revived everyone. I found we were in latitude 14 degrees 49 minutes
+south; longitude made 25 degrees 46 minutes west; course south 88 degrees
+west distance 75 miles.
+
+All the afternoon we were so covered with rain and salt water that we
+could scarcely see. We suffered extreme cold and everyone dreaded the
+approach of night. Sleep, though we longed for it, afforded no comfort:
+for my own part I almost lived without it.
+
+Thursday 21.
+
+About two o'clock in the morning we were overwhelmed with a deluge of
+rain. It fell so heavy that we were afraid it would fill the boat, and
+were obliged to bale with all our might. At dawn of day I served a larger
+allowance of rum. Towards noon the rain abated and the sun shone, but we
+were miserably cold and wet, the sea breaking constantly over us so that,
+notwithstanding the heavy rain, we had not been able to add to our stock
+of fresh water. Latitude by observation 14 degrees 29 minutes south, and
+longitude made by account from Tofoa 27 degrees 25 minutes west; course
+since yesterday noon north 78 degrees west 99 miles. I now considered
+myself nearly on a meridian with the east part of New Guinea.
+
+Friday 22.
+
+Strong gales from east-south-east to south-south-east, a high sea, and
+dark dismal night.
+
+Our situation this day was extremely calamitous. We were obliged to take
+the course of the sea, running right before it and watching with the
+utmost care as the least error in the helm would in a moment have been
+our destruction.
+
+At noon it blew very hard and the foam of the sea kept running over our
+stern and quarters; I however got propped up and made an observation of
+the latitude in 14 degrees 17 minutes south; course north 85 degrees west
+distance 130 miles; longitude made 29 degrees 38 minutes west.
+
+The misery we suffered this night exceeded the preceding. The sea flew
+over us with great force and kept us baling with horror and anxiety.
+
+Saturday 23.
+
+At dawn of day I found everyone in a most distressed condition, and I
+began to fear that another such night would put an end to the lives of
+several who seemed no longer able to support their sufferings. I served
+an allowance of two teaspoonfuls of rum, after drinking which, having
+wrung our clothes and taken our breakfast of bread and water, we became a
+little refreshed.
+
+Towards noon the weather became fair, but with very little abatement of
+the gale and the sea remained equally high. With some difficulty I
+observed the latitude to be 13 degrees 44 minutes south: course since
+yesterday noon north 74 degrees west, distance 116 miles; longitude made
+31 degrees 32 minutes west from Tofoa.
+
+The wind moderated in the evening and the weather looked much better,
+which rejoiced all hands so that they ate their scanty allowance with
+more satisfaction than for some time past. The night also was fair but,
+being always wet with the sea, we suffered much from the cold.
+
+Sunday 24.
+
+A fine morning, I had the pleasure to see, produced some cheerful
+countenances and, the first time for 15 days past, we experienced comfort
+from the warmth of the sun. We stripped and hung our clothes up to dry,
+which were by this time become so threadbare that they would not keep out
+either wet or cold.
+
+At noon I observed in latitude 13 degrees 33 minutes south; longitude by
+account from Tofoa 33 degrees 28 minutes west; course north 84 degrees
+west, distance 114 miles. With the usual allowance of bread and water for
+dinner I served an ounce of pork to each person. This afternoon we had
+many birds about us which are never seen far from land, such as boobies
+and noddies.
+
+ALLOWANCE LESSENED.
+
+As the sea began to run fair, and we shipped but little water, I took the
+opportunity to examine into the state of our bread and found that,
+according to the present mode of issuing, there was a sufficient quantity
+remaining for 29 days allowance, by which time I hoped we should be able
+to reach Timor. But as this was very uncertain and it was possible that,
+after all, we might be obliged to go to Java, I determined to proportion
+the allowance so as to make our stock hold out six weeks. I was
+apprehensive that this would be ill received, and that it would require
+my utmost resolution to enforce it for, small as the quantity was which I
+intended to take away for our future good, yet it might appear to my
+people like robbing them of life, and some, who were less patient than
+their companions, I expected would very ill brook it. However on my
+representing the necessity of guarding against delays that might be
+occasioned in our voyage by contrary winds, or other causes, and
+promising to enlarge upon the allowance as we got on, they cheerfully
+agreed to my proposal. It was accordingly settled that every person
+should receive one 25th of a pound of bread for breakfast, and the same
+quantity for dinner, so that by omitting the proportion for supper, we
+had 43 days allowance.
+
+Monday 25.
+
+At noon some noddies came so near to us that one of them was caught by
+hand. This bird was about the size of a small pigeon. I divided it with
+its entrails into 18 portions, and by a well-known method at sea of Who
+shall have this?* it was distributed with the allowance of bread and
+water for dinner, and ate up bones and all, with salt water for sauce. I
+observed the latitude 13 degrees 32 minutes south; longitude made 35
+degrees 19 minutes west; course north 89 degrees west, distance 108
+miles.
+
+(*Footnote. One person turns his back on the object that is to be
+divided: another then points separately to the portions, and each of them
+asking aloud, "Who shall have this?" to which the first answers by naming
+somebody. This impartial method of division gives every man an equal
+chance of the best share.)
+
+In the evening several boobies flying very near to us we had the good
+fortune to catch one of them. This bird is as large as a duck: like the
+noddy it has received its name from seamen for suffering itself to be
+caught on the masts and yards of ships. They are the most presumptive
+proofs of being in the neighbourhood of land of any seafowl we are
+acquainted with. I directed the bird to be killed for supper, and the
+blood to be given to three of the people who were the most distressed for
+want of food. The body, with the entrails, beak, and feet, I divided into
+18 shares, and with an allowance of bread, which I made a merit of
+granting, we made a good supper, compared with our usual fare.
+
+Tuesday 26.
+
+Fresh breezes from the south-east with fine weather. In the morning we
+caught another booby so that Providence appeared to be relieving our
+wants in an extraordinary manner. Towards noon we passed a great many
+pieces of the branches of trees, some of which appeared to have been no
+long time in the water. I had a good observation for the latitude, and
+found our situation to be in 13 degrees 41 minutes south; longitude by
+account from Tofoa 37 degrees 13 minutes west; course south 85 degrees
+west, 112 miles. The people were overjoyed at the addition to their
+dinner which was distributed in the same manner as on the preceding
+evening, giving the blood to those who were the most in want of food.
+
+To make the bread a little savoury most of the people frequently dipped
+it in salt water; but I generally broke mine into small pieces and ate it
+in my allowance of water, out of a coconut shell with a spoon,
+economically avoiding to take too large a piece at a time, so that I was
+as long at dinner as if it had been a much more plentiful meal.
+
+The weather was now serene, which nevertheless was not without its
+inconveniences, for we began to feel distress of a different kind from
+that which we had lately been accustomed to suffer. The heat of the sun
+was so powerful that several of the people were seized with a languor and
+faintness which made life indifferent. We were so fortunate as to catch
+two boobies in the evening: their stomachs contained several flying-fish
+and small cuttlefish, all of which I saved to be divided for dinner the
+next day.
+
+Wednesday 27.
+
+A fresh breeze at east-south-east with fair weather. We passed much
+driftwood this forenoon and saw many birds; I therefore did not hesitate
+to pronounce that we were near the reefs of New Holland. From my
+recollection of Captain Cook's survey of this coast I considered the
+direction of it to be north-west, and I was therefore satisfied that,
+with the wind to the southward of east, I could always clear any dangers.
+
+At noon I observed in latitude 13 degrees 26 minutes south; course since
+yesterday north 82 degrees west, distance 109 miles; longitude made 39
+degrees 4 minutes. After writing my account I divided the two birds with
+their entrails and the contents of their maws into 18 portions and, as
+the prize was a very valuable one it was divided as before, by calling
+out Who shall have this? so that today, with the allowance of a 25th of a
+pound of bread at breakfast, and another at dinner, with the proportion
+of water, I was happy to see that every person thought he had feasted.
+
+In the evening we saw a gannet; and the clouds remained so fixed in the
+west that I had little doubt of our being near the land. The people,
+after taking their allowance of water for supper, amused themselves with
+conversing on the probability of what we should find.
+
+Thursday 28.
+
+At one in the morning the person at the helm heard the sound of breakers,
+and I no sooner lifted up my head than I saw them close under our lee,
+not more than a quarter of a mile distant from us. I immediately hauled
+on a wind to the north-north-east and in ten minutes time we could
+neither see nor hear them.
+
+I have already mentioned my reason for making New Holland so far to the
+southward: for I never doubted of numerous openings in the reef through
+which I could have access to the shore and, knowing the inclination of
+the coast to be to the north-west and the wind mostly to the southward of
+east, I could with ease range such a barrier of reefs till I should find
+a passage, which now became absolutely necessary, without a moment's loss
+of time. The idea of getting into smooth water and finding refreshments
+kept my people's spirits up: their joy was very great after we had got
+clear of the breakers to which we had approached much nearer than I
+thought was possible, without first discovering them.
+
+Friday 29.
+
+In the morning at daylight, we could see nothing of the land or of the
+reefs. We bore away again and at nine o'clock saw the reefs. The sea
+broke furiously over every part, and we had no sooner got near to them
+than the wind came at east, so that we could only lie along the line of
+the breakers, within which we saw the water so smooth that every person
+already anticipated the heart-felt satisfaction he should receive as soon
+as we could get within them. I now found we were embayed for we could not
+lie clear with the sails, the wind having backed against us; and the sea
+set in so heavy towards the reef that our situation was become unsafe. We
+could effect but little with the oars, having scarce strength to pull
+them, and I began to apprehend that we should be obliged to attempt
+pushing over the reef. Even this I did not despair of effecting with
+success when happily we discovered a break in the reef, about one mile
+from us, and at the same time an island of a moderate height within it,
+nearly in the same direction, bearing west half north. I entered the
+passage with a strong stream running to the westward and found it about a
+quarter of a mile broad, with every appearance of deep water.
+
+On the outside the reef inclined to the north-east for a few miles, and
+from thence to the north-west: on the south side of the entrance it
+inclined to the south-south-west as far as I could see it, and I
+conjecture that a similar passage to this which we now entered may be
+found near the breakers that I first discovered which are 23 miles south
+of this channel.
+
+I did not recollect what latitude Providential channel* lies in, but I
+considered it to be within a few miles of this, which is situate in 12
+degrees 51 minutes south latitude.
+
+(*Footnote. Providential Channel is laid down by Captain Cook in 12
+degrees 34 minutes south, longitude 143 degrees 33 minutes east.)
+
+Being now happily within the reefs and in smooth water I endeavoured to
+keep near them to try for fish, but the tide set us to the north-west, I
+therefore bore away in that direction and, having promised to land on the
+first convenient spot we could find, all our past hardships seemed
+already to be forgotten.
+
+At noon I had a good observation by which our latitude was 12 degrees 46
+minutes south, whence the foregoing situations may be considered as
+determined with some exactness. The island first seen bore
+west-south-west five leagues. This, which I have called the island
+Direction, will in fair weather always show the channel, from which it
+bears due west, and may be seen as soon as the reefs from a ship's
+masthead: it lies in the latitude of 12 degrees 51 minutes south. These
+however are marks too small for a ship to hit unless it can hereafter be
+ascertained that passages through the reef are numerous along the coast
+which I am inclined to think they are, in which case there would be
+little risk even if the wind was directly on the shore.
+
+My longitude made by dead reckoning from the island Tofoa to our passage
+through the reef is 40 degrees 10 minutes west. Providential channel, I
+imagine, must lie very nearly under the same meridian with our passage,
+by which it appears we had out-run our reckoning 1 degree 9 minutes.
+
+We now returned God thanks for his gracious protection, and with much
+content took our miserable allowance of a 25th of a pound of bread and a
+quarter of a pint of water for dinner.
+
+
+CHAPTER 16.
+
+Progress to the Northward along the Coast of New Holland.
+Land on different Islands in search of Supplies.
+
+May 1789.
+
+As we advanced within the reefs the coast began to show itself very
+distinctly in a variety of high and low land, some parts of which were
+covered with wood. In our way towards the shore we fell in with a point
+of a reef which is connected with that towards the sea, and here we came
+to a grapnel and tried to catch fish but had no success. The island
+Direction at this time bore south three or four leagues. Two islands lay
+about four miles to the west by north, and appeared eligible for a
+resting-place, if for nothing more; but on our approach to the nearest
+island it proved to be only a heap of stones, and its size too
+inconsiderable to shelter the boat. We therefore proceeded to the next,
+which was close to it and towards the main. On the north-west side of
+this I found a bay and a fine sandy point to land at. Our distance was
+about a quarter of a mile from a projecting part of the main, which bore
+from south-west by south to north-north-west three-quarters west. We
+landed to examine if there were any signs of the natives being near us:
+we saw some old fireplaces but nothing to make me apprehend that this
+would be an unsafe situation for the night. Everyone was anxious to find
+something to eat, and it was soon discovered that there were oysters on
+the rocks for the tide was out; but it was nearly dark and only a few
+could be gathered. I determined therefore to wait till the morning, when
+I should better know how to proceed, and I directed that one half of our
+company should sleep on shore and the other half in the boat. We would
+gladly have made a fire but, as we could not accomplish it, we took our
+rest for the night, which happily was calm and undisturbed.
+
+Friday 29.
+
+The dawn of day brought greater strength and spirits to us than I
+expected for, notwithstanding everyone was very weak, there appeared
+strength sufficient remaining to make me conceive the most favourable
+hopes of our being able to surmount the difficulties we might yet have to
+encounter.
+
+As there were no appearances to make me imagine that any of the natives
+were near us I sent out parties in search of supplies, while others of
+the people were putting the boat in order that we might be ready to go to
+sea, in case any unforeseen cause should make it necessary. One of the
+gudgeons of the rudder had come out in the course of the night and was
+lost. This, if it had happened at sea, might have been attended with the
+most serious consequences, as the management of the boat could not have
+been so nicely preserved as these very heavy seas required. I had been
+apprehensive of this accident, and had in some measure prepared for it,
+by having grummets fixed on each quarter of the boat for oars; but our
+utmost readiness in using them would not probably have saved us. It
+appears therefore a providential circumstance that it happened in a place
+of safety, and that it was in our power to remedy the defect; for by
+great good luck we found a large staple in the boat, which answered the
+purpose.
+
+The parties returned, highly rejoiced at having found plenty of oysters
+and fresh water. I had also made a fire by the help of a small magnifying
+glass and, what was still more fortunate, we found among the few things
+which had been thrown into the boat and saved a piece of brimstone and a
+tinderbox, so that I secured fire for the future.
+
+One of the people had been so provident as to bring away with him from
+the ship a copper pot: by being in possession of this article we were
+enabled to make a proper use of the supply we now obtained for, with a
+mixture of bread and a little pork, we made a stew that might have been
+relished by people of far more delicate appetites, and of which each
+person received a full pint.
+
+The general complaints of disease among us were a dizziness in the head,
+great weakness of the joints, and violent tenesmus, most of us having had
+no evacuation by stool since we left the ship. I had constantly a severe
+pain at my stomach but none of our complaints were alarming: on the
+contrary, everyone retained marks of strength that, with a mind possessed
+of a tolerable share of fortitude, seemed able to bear more fatigue than
+I imagined we should have to undergo in our voyage to Timor.
+
+As I would not allow the people to expose themselves to the heat of the
+sun, it being near noon, everyone took his allotment of earth where it
+was shaded by the bushes for a short sleep.
+
+The oysters which we found grew so fast to the rocks that it was with
+difficulty they could be broken off, and at length we discovered it to be
+the most expeditious way to open them where they were fixed. They were of
+a good size, and well tasted. To add to this happy circumstance in the
+hollow of the land there grew some wire-grass, which indicated a moist
+situation. On forcing a stick, about three feet long, into the ground we
+found water, and with little trouble dug a well which produced as much as
+our occasions required. It was very good, but I could not determine if it
+was a spring or not. We were not obliged to make the well deep for it
+flowed as fast as we emptied it, which, as the soil was apparently too
+loose to retain water from the rains, renders it probable to be a spring.
+On the south side of the island likewise we found a small run of good
+water.
+
+Besides places where fires had been made there were other signs of the
+natives sometimes resorting to this island. I saw two ill-constructed
+huts or wigwams which had only one side loosely covered, and a pointed
+stick was found, about three feet long, with a slit in the end of it to
+sling stones with, the same as the natives of Van Diemen's land use.
+
+The track of some animal was very discernible and Nelson agreed with me
+that it was the kangaroo; but whether these animals swim over from the
+mainland, or are brought here by the natives to breed, it is impossible
+to determine. The latter is not improbable as they may be taken with less
+difficulty in a confined spot like this than on the continent.
+
+The island is about a league in circuit: it is a high lump of rocks and
+stones covered with wood; but the trees are small, the soil, which is
+very indifferent and sandy, being barely sufficient to produce them. The
+trees that came within our knowledge were the manchineal and a species of
+purow; also some palm trees, the tops of which we cut down, and the soft
+interior part or heart of them was so palatable that it made a good
+addition to our mess. Nelson discovered some fern-roots which I thought
+might be good roasted as a substitute for bread, but in this I was
+mistaken: it however was very serviceable in its natural state to allay
+thirst, and on that account I directed a quantity to be collected to take
+into the boat. Many pieces of coconut shells and husk were found about
+the shore, but we could find no coconut trees, neither did I see any on
+the main.
+
+I had cautioned the people not to touch any kind of berry or fruit that
+they might find; yet they were no sooner out of my sight than they began
+to make free with three different kinds that grew all over the island,
+eating without any reserve. The symptoms of having eaten too much began
+at last to frighten some of them but, on questioning others who had taken
+a more moderate allowance, their minds were a little quieted. The others
+however became equally alarmed in their turn, dreading that such symptoms
+would come on, and that they were all poisoned, so that they regarded
+each other with the strongest marks of apprehension, uncertain what would
+be the issue of their imprudence. Fortunately the fruit proved wholesome
+and good. One sort grew on a small delicate kind of vine; they were the
+size of a large gooseberry and very like in substance, but had only a
+sweet taste; the skin was a pale red, streaked with yellow the long way
+of the fruit: it was pleasant and agreeable. Another kind grew on bushes
+like that which is called the seaside grape in the West Indies, but the
+fruit was very different, being more like elderberries, and grew in
+clusters in the same manner. The third sort was a blackberry; this was
+not in such plenty as the others and resembled a bullace, or large kind
+of sloe, both in size and taste. When I saw that these fruits were eaten
+by the birds I no longer doubted of their being wholesome, and those who
+had already tried the experiment, not finding any bad effect, made it a
+certainty that we might eat of them without danger.
+
+Wild pigeons, parrots, and other birds were about the summit of the
+island but, having no firearms, relief of that kind was not to be
+expected unless we should find some unfrequented spot where the birds
+were so tame that we might take them with our hands.
+
+The shore of this island is very rocky except the place at which we
+landed, and here I picked up many pieces of pumice-stone. On the part of
+the main nearest to us were several sandy bays which at low water became
+an extensive rocky flat. The country had rather a barren appearance
+except in a few places where it was covered with wood. A remarkable range
+of rocks lay a few miles to the south-west, and a high peaked hill seemed
+to terminate the coast towards the sea, with islands to the southward. A
+high fair cape showed the direction of the coast to the north-west about
+seven leagues distant; and two small isles lay three or four leagues to
+the northward of our present station.
+
+I saw a few bees or wasps and several lizards; and the blackberry bushes
+were full of ants nests, webbed like a spider's but so close and compact
+as not to admit the rain. A trunk of a tree about 50 feet long lay on the
+beach, from which I conclude that a heavy sea sets in here with a
+northerly wind.
+
+This day being the anniversary of the restoration of King Charles the
+Second, and the name not being inapplicable to our present situation (for
+we were restored to fresh life and strength) I named this Restoration
+Island; for I thought it probable that Captain Cook might not have taken
+notice of it. The other names which I have presumed to give the different
+parts of the coast are meant only to show my route more distinctly.
+
+At noon I observed the latitude of the island to be 12 degrees 39 minutes
+south, our course having been north 66 degrees west, distance 18 miles
+from yesterday noon. The wind was at east-south-east with very fine
+weather.
+
+In the afternoon I sent parties out again to gather oysters, with which
+and some of the inner part of the palm-top we made another good stew for
+supper, each person receiving a full pint and a half; but I refused bread
+to this meal for I considered that our wants might yet be very great, and
+was intent on saving our principal support whenever it was in my power.
+After supper we again divided and those who were on shore slept by a good
+fire.
+
+Saturday 30.
+
+In the morning I discovered a visible alteration in our company for the
+better, and I sent them away again to gather oysters. We had now only two
+pounds of pork left. This article, which I could not keep under lock and
+key as I did the bread, had been pilfered by some inconsiderate person,
+but everyone denied having any knowledge of this act; I therefore
+resolved to put it out of their power for the future by sharing what
+remained for our dinner. While the party was out picking up oysters I got
+the boat in readiness for sea, and filled all our water vessels, which
+amounted to nearly 60 gallons.
+
+The party being returned, dinner was soon ready, which was as plentiful a
+meal as the supper on the preceding evening, and with the pork I gave an
+allowance of bread. As it was not yet noon I sent the people once more to
+gather oysters for a sea store, recommending to them to be as diligent as
+possible for that I was determined to sail in the afternoon.
+
+At noon I again observed the latitude 12 degrees 39 minutes south; it was
+then high-water, the tide had risen three feet, but I could not be
+certain from whence the flood came. I deduce the time of high-water at
+full and change to be ten minutes past seven in the morning.
+
+Early in the afternoon the people returned with the few oysters that they
+had collected and everything was put into the boat. I then examined the
+quantity of bread remaining and found 38 days allowance, according to the
+last mode of issuing a 25th of a pound at breakfast and at dinner.
+
+Fair weather and moderate breezes at east-south-east and south-east.
+
+Being ready for sea I directed every person to attend prayers. At four
+o'clock we were preparing to embark when about twenty of the natives
+appeared, running and hallooing to us, on the opposite shore. They were
+each armed with a spear or lance and a short weapon which they carried in
+their left hand: they made signs for us to come to them. On the top of
+the hills we saw the heads of many more: whether these were their wives
+and children or others who waited for our landing, meaning not to show
+themselves lest we might be intimidated, I cannot say but, as I found we
+were discovered to be on the coast, I thought it prudent to make the best
+of our way for fear of being pursued by canoes, though, from the accounts
+of Captain Cook, the chance was that there were very few if any of
+consequence on any part of the coast. I passed these people as near as I
+could with safety: they were naked and apparently black, and their hair
+or wool bushy and short.
+
+I directed my course within two small islands that lie to the north of
+Restoration Island, passing between them and the mainland towards Fair
+Cape with a strong tide in my favour, so that I was abreast of it by
+eight o'clock. The coast we passed was high and woody. As I could see no
+land without Fair Cape I concluded that the coast inclined to the
+north-west and west-north-west: I therefore steered more towards the
+west; but by eleven o'clock at night we met with low land which inclined
+to the north-east, and at three o'clock in the morning I found that we
+were embayed, which obliged us to stand back for a short time to the
+southward.
+
+Sunday 31.
+
+At daybreak I was exceedingly surprised to find the appearance of the
+country entirely changed, as if in the course of the night we had been
+transported to another part of the world; for we had now a low sandy
+coast in view, with very little verdure or anything to indicate that it
+was at all habitable to a human being except a few patches of small trees
+or brushwood.
+
+Many small islands were in sight to the north-east about six miles
+distant. The eastern part of the main bore north four miles, and Fair
+Cape south-south-east five or six leagues. I took the channel between the
+nearest island and the mainland, which were about one mile apart, leaving
+all the islands on the starboard side. Some of these were very pretty
+spots, covered with wood and well situated for fishing: large shoals of
+fish were about us but we could not catch any. In passing this strait we
+saw another party of Indians, seven in number, running towards us,
+shouting and making signs for us to land. Some of them waved green
+branches of the bushes which were near them as a token of friendship; but
+some of their other motions were less friendly. A little farther off we
+saw a larger party who likewise came towards us. I therefore determined
+not to land though I much wished to have had some intercourse with these
+people. Nevertheless I laid the boat close to the rocks and beckoned to
+them to approach but none of them would come within 200 yards of us. They
+were armed in the same manner as the people we had seen from Restoration
+Island; they were stark naked, their colour black, with short bushy hair
+or wool, and in their appearance were similar to them in every respect.
+An island of a good height bore north half west four miles from us, at
+which I resolved to land and from thence to take a look at the coast. At
+this isle we arrived about eight o'clock in the morning. The shore was
+rocky but the water was smooth and we landed without difficulty. I sent
+two parties out, one to the northward and the other to the southward, to
+seek for supplies, and others I ordered to stay by the boat. On this
+occasion fatigue and weakness so far got the better of their sense of
+duty that some of the people expressed their discontent at having worked
+harder than their companions, and declared that they would rather be
+without their dinner than go in search of it. One person in particular
+went so far as to tell me, with a mutinous look, that he was as good a
+man as myself. It was not possible for me to judge where this might have
+an end if not stopped in time, therefore to prevent such disputes in
+future I determined either to preserve my command or die in the attempt
+and, seizing a cutlass, I ordered him to take hold of another and defend
+himself, on which he called out that I was going to kill him and
+immediately made concessions. I did not allow this to interfere further
+with the harmony of the boat's crew and everything soon became quiet.
+
+The parties continued collecting what they could find, which were some
+fine oysters and clams and a few small dog-fish that were caught in the
+holes of the rocks. We also found some rainwater in the hollow of the
+rocks on the north part of the island, so that of this essential article
+we were again so fortunate as to obtain a full supply.
+
+After regulating the mode of proceeding I walked to the highest part of
+the island to consider our route for the night. To my surprise no more of
+the mainland could be seen here than from below, the northernmost part in
+sight, which was full of sandhills bearing west by north about three
+leagues. Except the isles to the east-south-east and south that we had
+passed I could only discover a small key north-west by north. As this was
+considerably farther from the main than the spot on which we were at
+present I judged it would be a more secure resting-place for the night,
+for here we were liable to an attack, if the Indians had canoes, as they
+undoubtedly must have observed our landing. My mind being made up on this
+point I returned after taking a particular look at the island we were on,
+which I found only to produce a few bushes and some coarse grass, the
+extent of the whole not being two miles in circuit. On the north side in
+a sandy bay I saw an old canoe about 33 feet long, lying bottom upwards
+and half buried in the beach. It was made of three pieces, the bottom
+entire, to which the sides were sewed in the common way. It had a sharp
+projecting prow rudely carved in resemblance of the head of a fish; the
+extreme breadth was about three feet and I imagine it was capable of
+carrying 20 men. The discovery of so large a canoe confirmed me in the
+purpose of seeking a more retired place for our night's lodging.
+
+At noon the parties were all returned but had found much difficulty in
+gathering the oysters from their close adherence to the rocks, and the
+clams were scarce: I therefore saw that it would be of little use to
+remain longer in this place, as we should not be able to collect more
+than we could eat. I named this Sunday Island: it lies north by west
+three-quarters west from Restoration Island; the latitude by a good
+observation 11 degrees 58 minutes south.
+
+We had a fresh breeze at south-east by south with fair weather. At two
+o'clock in the afternoon we dined, each person having a full pint and a
+half of stewed oysters and clams, thickened with small beans which Nelson
+informed me were a species of Dolichos. Having eaten heartily and
+completed our water I waited to determine the time of high-water, which I
+found to be at three o'clock, and the rise of the tide about five feet.
+According to this it is high-water on the full and change at 19 minutes
+past 9 in the morning: I observed the flood to come from the southward,
+though at Restoration Island I thought it came from the northward. I
+think Captain Cook mentions that he found great irregularity in the set
+of the flood on this coast.
+
+We steered for the key seen in the north-west by north where we arrived
+just at dark, but found it so surrounded by a reef of rocks that I could
+not land without danger of staving the boat; and on that account we came
+to a grapnel for the night.
+
+Monday June 1.
+
+At dawn of day we got on shore and tracked the boat into shelter for, the
+wind blowing fresh without and the ground being rocky, it was not safe to
+trust her at a grapnel lest she should be blown to sea: I was therefore
+obliged to let her ground in the course of the ebb. From appearances I
+expected that if we remained till night we should meet with turtle as we
+discovered recent tracks of them. Innumerable birds of a noddy kind made
+this island their resting-place; so that we had reason to flatter
+ourselves with hopes of getting supplies in greater abundance than it had
+hitherto been in our power. Our situation was at least four leagues
+distant from the main. We were on the north-westernmost of four small
+keys which were surrounded by a reef of rocks connected by sandbanks
+except between the two northernmost, and there likewise it was dry at low
+water, the whole forming a lagoon island into which the tide flowed: at
+this entrance I kept the boat.
+
+As usual I sent parties away in search of supplies but, to our great
+disappointment, we could only get a few clams and some dolichos: with
+these and the oysters we had brought from Sunday Island I made up a mess
+for dinner with the addition of a small quantity of bread.
+
+Towards noon Nelson and some others who had been to the easternmost key
+returned, but Nelson was in so weak a condition that he was obliged to be
+supported by two men. His complaint was a violent heat in his bowels, a
+loss of sight, much drought, and an inability to walk. This I found was
+occasioned by his being unable to support the heat of the sun and that,
+when he was fatigued and faint, instead of retiring into the shade to
+rest he had continued to attempt more than his strength was equal to. I
+was glad to find that he had no fever; and it was now that the little
+wine which I had so carefully saved became of real use. I gave it in very
+small quantities with some pieces of bread soaked in it; and he soon
+began to recover. The boatswain and carpenter also were ill and
+complained of headache and sickness of the stomach. Others who had not
+had any evacuation by stool became shockingly distressed with the
+tenesmus so that there were but few without complaints. An idea prevailed
+that the sickness of the boatswain and carpenter was occasioned by eating
+the dolichos. Myself however and some others who had taken the same food
+felt no inconvenience; but the truth was that many of the people had
+eaten a large quantity of them raw, and Nelson informed me that they were
+constantly teasing him whenever a berry was found to know if it was good
+to eat; so that it would not have been surprising if many of them had
+been really poisoned.
+
+Our dinner was not so well relished as at Sunday Island because we had
+mixed the dolichos with our stew. The oysters and soup however were eaten
+by everyone except Nelson whom I fed with a few small pieces of bread
+soaked in half a glass of wine, and he continued to mend.
+
+In my walk round the island I found several coconut shells, the remains
+of an old wigwam, and the backs of two turtles, but no sign of any
+quadruped. One of the people found three seafowl's eggs.
+
+As is common on such spots the soil is little other than sand, yet it
+produced small toa-trees and some others that we were not acquainted
+with. There were fish in the lagoon, but we could not catch any. Our
+wants therefore were not likely to be supplied here, not even with water
+for our daily expense: nevertheless I determined to wait till the
+morning, that we might try our success in the night for turtle and birds.
+A quiet night's rest also, I conceived, would be of essential service to
+those who were unwell.
+
+The wigwam and turtle shell were proofs that the natives at times visited
+this place, and that they had canoes the remains of the large canoe that
+we saw at Sunday Island left no room to doubt: but I did not apprehend
+that we ran any risk by remaining here a short time. I directed our fire
+however to be made in the thicket that we might not be discovered by its
+light.
+
+At noon I observed the latitude of this island to be 11 degrees 47
+minutes south. The mainland extended towards the north-west and was full
+of white sandhills: another small island lay within us, bearing west by
+north one quarter north three leagues distant. Our situation being very
+low we could see nothing of the reef towards the sea.
+
+The afternoon was advantageously spent in sleep. There were however a few
+not disposed to it, and those were employed in dressing some clams to
+take with us for the next day's dinner: others we cut up in slices to
+dry, which I knew was the most valuable supply we could find here, but
+they were very scarce.
+
+Towards evening I cautioned everyone against making too large a fire or
+suffering it after dark to blaze up. Mr. Samuel and Mr. Peckover had
+superintendence of this business, while I was strolling about the beach
+to observe if I thought it could be seen from the main. I was just
+satisfied that it could not when on a sudden the island appeared all in a
+blaze that might have been discerned at a much more considerable
+distance. I ran to learn the cause and found that it was occasioned by
+the imprudence and obstinacy of one of the party who in my absence had
+insisted on having a fire to himself, in making which the flames caught
+the neighbouring grass and rapidly spread. This misconduct might have
+produced very serious consequences by discovering our situation to the
+natives for, if they had attacked us, we had neither arms nor strength to
+oppose an enemy. Thus the relief which I expected from a little sleep was
+totally lost and I anxiously waited for the flowing of the tide that we
+might proceed to sea.
+
+It was high-water at half-past five this evening whence I deduced the
+time on the full and change of the moon to be 58 past 10 in the morning:
+the rise was nearly five feet. I could not observe the set of the flood
+but imagined it to come from the southward, and that I was mistaken at
+Restoration Island as I found the time of high-water gradually later the
+more we advanced to the northward.
+
+At Restoration Island high-water full and change : 7 hours 10.
+Sunday Island high-water full and change : 9 hours 19.
+Here high-water full and change : 10 hours 58.
+
+After eight o'clock Mr. Samuel and Mr. Peckover went out to watch for
+turtle and three men went to the east key to endeavour to catch birds.
+All the others, complaining of being sick, took their rest, except Mr.
+Hayward and Mr. Elphinston whom I directed to keep watch. About midnight
+the bird party returned with only twelve noddies, birds which I have
+already described to be about the size of pigeons: but if it had not been
+for the folly and obstinacy of one of the party, who separated from the
+other two and disturbed the birds, they might have caught a great number.
+I was so much provoked at my plans being thus defeated that I gave this
+offender a good beating.* I now went in search of the turtling party who
+had taken great pains but without success. This did not surprise me as it
+was not to be expected that turtle would come near us after the noise
+which had been made at the beginning of the evening in extinguishing the
+fire. I therefore desired them to come back, but they requested to stay a
+little longer as they still hoped to find some before daylight: however
+they returned by three o'clock without any reward for their labour.
+
+(*Footnote. Robert Lamb. This man when he came to Java acknowledged he
+had eaten nine birds raw after he separated from his two companions.)
+
+Tuesday 2.
+
+The birds we half dressed that they might keep the better: and these with
+a few clams made the whole of the supply procured here. I tied a few gilt
+buttons and some pieces of iron to a tree for any of the natives that
+might come after us and, finding my invalids much better for their
+night's rest, we embarked and departed by dawn of day. Wind at
+south-east; course to the north by west.
+
+When we had run two leagues to the northward the sea suddenly became
+rough which, not having before experienced since we were within the
+reefs, I concluded to be occasioned by an open channel to the ocean. Soon
+afterwards we met with a large shoal on which were two sandy keys;
+between these and two others, four miles to the west, I passed on to the
+northward, the sea still continuing to be rough.
+
+Towards noon I fell in with six other keys, most of which produced some
+small trees and brushwood. These formed a pleasing contrast with the
+mainland we had passed which was full of sandhills. The country continued
+hilly and the northernmost land, the same we had seen from the lagoon
+island, appeared like downs, sloping towards the sea. Nearly abreast of
+us was a flat-topped hill which on account of its shape I called
+Pudding-pan hill; and a little to the northward were two other hills
+which we called the Paps; and here was a small tract of country without
+sand, the eastern part of which forms a cape whence the coast inclines to
+the north-west by north.
+
+At noon I observed in the latitude of 11 degrees 18 minutes south the
+cape bearing west distant ten miles. Five small keys bore from north-east
+to south-east, the nearest of them about two miles distant, and a low
+sandy key between us and the cape bore west distant four miles. My course
+from the lagoon island had been north half west distant 30 miles.
+
+I am sorry it was not in my power to obtain a sufficient knowledge of the
+depth of water but in our situation nothing could be undertaken that
+might have occasioned delay. It may however be understood that to the
+best of my judgment from appearances a ship may pass wherever I have
+omitted to represent danger.
+
+I divided six birds and issued one 25th of a pound of bread with half a
+pint of water to each person for dinner, and I gave half a glass of wine
+to Nelson, who was now so far recovered as to require no other
+indulgence.
+
+The gunner when he left the ship brought his watch with him, by which we
+had regulated out time till today, when unfortunately it stopped; so that
+noon, sunrise, and sunset, are the only parts of the 24 hours of which
+from henceforward I can speak with certainty as to time.
+
+The wind blew fresh from the south-south-east and south-east all the
+afternoon with fair weather. As we stood to the north by west we found
+more sea, which I attributed to our receiving less shelter from the reefs
+to the eastward: it is probable they did not extend so far north as this;
+at least it may be concluded that there is not a continued barrier to
+prevent shipping having access to the shore. I observed that the stream
+set to the north-west, which I considered to be the flood. In some places
+along the coast we saw patches of wood. At five o'clock, steering to the
+north-west, we passed a large and fair inlet into which I imagine there
+is a safe and commodious entrance; it lies in latitude 11 degrees south.
+About three leagues to the northward of this is an island, at which we
+arrived about sunset, and took shelter for the night under a sandy point
+which was the only part we could land at. This being rather a wild
+situation I thought it best to sleep in the boat: nevertheless I sent a
+party away to see if anything could be got, but they returned without
+success. They saw a great number of turtle bones and shells where the
+natives had been feasting, and their last visit seemed to be of late
+date. The island was covered with wood, but in other respects it was a
+lump of rocks.
+
+Wednesday 3.
+
+We lay at a grapnel till daylight with a very fresh gale and cloudy
+weather. The main bore from south-east by south to north-north-west half
+west three leagues, and a mountainous island with a flat top, north by
+west four or five leagues, between which and the mainland were several
+other islands. The spot we were at, which I call Turtle Island, lies in
+latitude by account 10 degrees 52 minutes south and 42 miles west from
+Restoration Island. Abreast of it the coast has the appearance of a sandy
+desert, but improves about three leagues farther to the northward where
+it terminates in a point, near to which are many small islands. I sailed
+between these islands where I found no bottom at twelve fathoms; the high
+mountainous island with a flat top and four rocks to the south-east of
+it, that I call the Brothers, being on my starboard hand. Soon after an
+extensive opening appeared in the mainland, in which were a number of
+high islands. I called this the Bay of Islands. We continued steering to
+the north-west. Several islands and keys were in sight to the northward:
+the most northerly island was mountainous, having on it a very high round
+hill, and a smaller was remarkable for a single peaked hill.
+
+The coast to the northward and westward of the Bay of Islands is high and
+woody and has a broken appearance, with many islands close to it, among
+which there are fine bays and convenient places for shipping. The
+northernmost of these islands I call Wednesday Island: to the north-west
+of this we fell in with a large reef which I believe joins a number of
+keys that were in sight from the north-west to the east-north-east. We
+therefore stood to the south-west half a league when it was noon, and I
+had a good observation of the latitude in 10 degrees 31 minutes south.
+Wednesday Island bore east by south five miles; the westernmost land in
+sight south-west two or three leagues; the islands to the northward from
+north-west by west to north-east, and the reef from west to north-east
+distant one mile. I was now tolerably certain that we should be clear of
+New Holland in the afternoon.
+
+I know not how far this reef extends. It may be a continuation or a
+detached part of the range of shoals that surround the coast. I believe
+the mountainous islands to be separate from the shoals, and have no doubt
+that near them may be found good passages for ships. But I rather
+recommend to those who are to pass this strait from the eastward to take
+their direction from the coast of New Guinea: yet I likewise think that a
+ship coming from the southward will find a fair strait in the latitude of
+10 degrees south. I much wished to have ascertained this point but in our
+distressful situation any increase of fatigue or loss of time might have
+been attended with the most fatal consequences. I therefore determined to
+pass on without delay.
+
+As an addition to our dinner of bread and water I served to each person
+six oysters.
+
+At two o'clock in the afternoon as we were steering to the south-west
+towards the westernmost part of the land in sight we fell in with some
+large sandbanks that run off from the coast: I therefore called this
+Shoal Cape. We were obliged to steer to the northward again till we got
+round the shoals, when I directed the course to the west.
+
+At four o'clock the westernmost of the islands to the northward bore
+north four leagues; Wednesday Island east by north five leagues, and
+shoal cape south-east by east two leagues. A small island was seen
+bearing west, at which we arrived before dark and found that it was only
+a rock where boobies resort, for which reason I called it Booby Island.
+Here terminated the rocks and shoals of the north part of New Holland for
+except Booby Island no land was seen to the westward of south after three
+o'clock this afternoon.
+
+I find that Booby island was seen by Captain Cook and, by a remarkable
+coincidence of ideas, received from him the same name, but I cannot with
+certainty reconcile the situation of some parts of the coast that I have
+seen to his survey. I ascribe this to the various forms in which land
+appears when seen from the different heights of a ship and a boat. The
+chart I have given is by no means meant to supersede that made by Captain
+Cook, who had better opportunities than I had and was in every respect
+properly provided for surveying. The intention of mine is chiefly to
+render this narrative more intelligible, and to show in what manner the
+coast appeared to me from an open boat. I have little doubt but that the
+opening which I named the Bay of Islands is Endeavour Straits; and that
+our track was to the northward of Prince of Wales' Isles. Perhaps, by
+those who shall hereafter navigate these seas, more advantage may be
+derived from the possession of both our charts than from either of them
+singly.
+
+
+CHAPTER 17.
+
+Passage from New Holland to the Island Timor.
+Arrive at Coupang.
+Reception there.
+
+June 1789.
+
+Wednesday 3.
+
+At eight o'clock in the evening we once more launched into the open
+ocean. Miserable as our situation was in every respect I was secretly
+surprised to see that it did not appear to affect anyone so strongly as
+myself; on the contrary it seemed as if they had embarked on a voyage to
+Timor in a vessel sufficiently calculated for safety and convenience. So
+much confidence gave me great pleasure and I may venture to assert that
+to this cause our preservation is chiefly to be attributed.
+
+I encouraged everyone with hopes that eight or ten days would bring us to
+a land of safety; and, after praying to God for a continuance of his most
+gracious protection, I served an allowance of water for supper and
+directed our course to the west-south-west to counteract the southerly
+winds in case they should blow strong.
+
+We had been just six days on the coast of New Holland in the course of
+which we found oysters, a few clams, some birds, and water. But perhaps a
+benefit nearly equal to this we received by having been relieved from the
+fatigue of being constantly in the boat and enjoying good rest at night.
+These advantages certainly preserved our lives and, small as the supply
+was, I am very sensible how much it alleviated our distresses. By this
+time nature must have sunk under the extremes of hunger and fatigue. Some
+would have ceased to struggle for a life that only promised wretchedness
+and misery; and others, though possessed of more bodily strength, must
+soon have followed their unfortunate companions. Even in our present
+situation we were most deplorable objects; but the hopes of a speedy
+relief kept up our spirits. For my own part, incredible as it may appear,
+I felt neither extreme hunger nor thirst. My allowance contented me,
+knowing that I could have no more.
+
+Thursday 4.
+
+I served one 25th of a pound of bread and an allowance of water for
+breakfast and the same for dinner with an addition of six oysters to each
+person. At noon latitude observed 10 degrees 48 minutes south; course
+since yesterday noon south 81 degrees west, distance 111 miles; longitude
+by account from Shoal Cape 1 degree 45 minutes west. A strong tradewind
+at east-south-east with fair weather.
+
+This day we saw a number of water-snakes that were ringed yellow and
+black, and towards noon we passed a great deal of rock-weed. Though the
+weather was fair we were constantly shipping water, which kept two men
+always employed to bale the boat.
+
+Friday 5.
+
+At noon I observed in latitude 10 degrees 45 minutes south; our course
+since yesterday west one quarter north, 108 miles; longitude made 3
+degrees 35 minutes west. Six oysters were, as yesterday, served to each
+man, in addition to the usual allowance of bread and water.
+
+In the evening a few boobies came about us, one of which I caught with my
+hand. The blood was divided among three of the men who were weakest, but
+the bird I ordered to be kept for our dinner the next day. Served a
+quarter of a pint of water for supper, and to some who were most in need
+half a pint. In the course of the night, being constantly wet with the
+sea, we suffered much cold and shiverings.
+
+Saturday 6.
+
+At daylight I found that some of the clams which had been hung up to dry
+for sea-store were stolen; but everyone solemnly denied having any
+knowledge of it. This forenoon we saw a gannet, a sand-lark and some
+water-snakes which in general were from two or three feet long.
+
+The usual allowance of bread and water was served for breakfast, and the
+same for dinner with the bird, which I distributed in the usual way, of
+Who shall have this? I proposed to make Timor about the latitude of 9
+degrees 30 minutes south, or 10 degrees south. At noon I observed the
+latitude to be 10 degrees 19 minutes south; course north 77 degrees west,
+distance 117 miles; longitude made from the Shoal Cape, the north part of
+New Holland, 5 degrees 31 minutes west.
+
+In the afternoon I took an opportunity of examining our store of bread,
+and found remaining 19 days allowance, at the former rate of serving one
+25th of a pound three times a day: therefore, as I saw every prospect of
+a quick passage, I again ventured to grant an allowance for supper,
+agreeable to my promise at the time it was discontinued.
+
+Sunday 7.
+
+We passed the night miserably wet and cold and in the morning I heard
+heavy complaints. The sea was high and breaking over us. I could only
+afford the allowance of bread and water for breakfast, but for dinner I
+gave out an ounce of dried clams to each person, which was all that
+remained.
+
+At noon I altered the course to the west-north-west to keep more from the
+sea, as the wind blew strong. Latitude observed 9 degrees 31 minutes
+south; course north 57 degrees west, distance 88 miles; longitude made 6
+degrees 46 minutes west.
+
+The sea ran very high all this day and we had frequent showers of rain so
+that we were continually wet and suffered much cold in the night. Mr.
+Ledward the surgeon, and Lawrence Lebogue, an old hardy seaman, appeared
+to be giving way very fast. I could only assist them by a teaspoonful or
+two of wine which I had carefully saved, expecting such a melancholy
+necessity.
+
+Monday 8.
+
+Wind at south-east. The weather was more moderate than it had been for
+some days past. A few gannets were seen. At noon I observed in 8 degrees
+45 minutes south; course west-north-west one quarter west, 106 miles;
+longitude made 8 degrees 23 minutes west. The sea being smooth I steered
+west by south.
+
+At four in the afternoon we caught a small dolphin, which was the first
+relief of the kind that we obtained. I issued about two ounces to each
+person, including the offals, and saved the remainder for dinner the next
+day. Towards evening the wind freshened and it blew strong all night, so
+that we shipped much water and suffered greatly from the wet and cold.
+
+Tuesday 9.
+
+At daylight as usual I heard much complaining, which my own feelings
+convinced me was too well founded. I gave the surgeon the Lebogue a
+little wine but I could afford them no farther relief except encouraging
+them with hopes that a very few days longer, at our present fine rate of
+sailing, would bring us to Timor.
+
+Gannets, boobies, men of war and tropic birds, were constantly about us.
+Served the usual allowance of bread and water and at noon we dined on the
+remains of the dolphin, which amounted to about an ounce per man. I
+observed the latitude to be 9 degrees 9 minutes south; longitude made 10
+degrees 8 minutes west; course since yesterday noon south 76 degrees
+west; distance 107 miles.
+
+This afternoon I suffered great sickness from the nature of part of the
+stomach of the fish which had fallen to my share at dinner. At sunset
+served an allowance of bread and water for supper.
+
+Wednesday 10.
+
+In the morning after a very comfortless night there was a visible
+alteration for the worse in many of the people which gave me great
+apprehensions. An extreme weakness, swelled legs, hollow and ghastly
+countenances, a more than common inclination to sleep, with an apparent
+debility of understanding, seemed to me the melancholy presages of an
+approaching dissolution. The surgeon and Lebogue, in particular, were
+most miserable objects. I occasionally gave them a few teaspoonfuls of
+wine out of the little that remained, which greatly assisted them. The
+hopes of being able to accomplish the voyage was our principal support.
+The boatswain very innocently told me that he really thought I looked
+worse than anyone in the boat. The simplicity with which he uttered such
+an opinion amused me and I returned him a better compliment.
+
+Our latitude at noon was 9 degrees 16 minutes south. Longitude from the
+north part of New Holland 12 degrees 1 minute west. Course since
+yesterday noon west half south 111 miles. Birds and rock-weed showed that
+we were not far from land, but I expected such signs here as there are
+many islands between the east part of Timor and New Guinea. The night was
+more moderate than the last.
+
+Thursday 11.
+
+Everyone received the customary allowance of bread and water, and an
+extra allowance of water was given to those who were most in need. At
+noon I observed in latitude 9 degrees 41 minutes south; course 77 degrees
+west, distance 109 miles; longitude made 13 degrees 49 minutes west. I
+had little doubt of having now passed the meridian of the eastern part of
+Timor which is laid down in 128 degrees east. This diffused universal joy
+and satisfaction.
+
+In the afternoon we saw gannets and many other birds, and at sunset we
+kept a very anxious lookout. In the evening we caught a booby which I
+reserved for our dinner the next day.
+
+Friday 12.
+
+At three in the morning, with an excess of joy, we discovered Timor
+bearing from west-south-west to west-north-west, and I hauled on a wind
+to the north-north-east till daylight, when the land bore from south-west
+by south to north-east by north. Our distance from the shore two leagues.
+
+It is not possible for me to describe the pleasure which the blessing of
+the sight of this land diffused among us. It appeared scarce credible to
+ourselves that, in an open boat and so poorly provided, we should have
+been able to reach the coast of Timor in forty-one days after leaving
+Tofoa, having in that time run, by our log, a distance of 3618 miles; and
+that, notwithstanding our extreme distress, no one should have perished
+in the voyage.
+
+I have already mentioned that I knew not where the Dutch settlement was
+situated but I had a faint idea that it was at the south-west part of the
+island. I therefore, after daylight, bore away alongshore to the
+south-south-west, which I was the more readily induced to do as the wind
+would not suffer us to go towards the north-east without great loss of
+time.
+
+The day gave us a most agreeable prospect of the land which was
+interspersed with woods and lawns; the interior part mountainous, but the
+shore low. Towards noon the coast became higher with some remarkable
+headlands. We were greatly delighted with the general look of the country
+which exhibited many cultivated spots and beautiful situations; but we
+could only see a few small huts whence I concluded that no European
+resided in this part of the island. Much sea ran on the shore which made
+landing impracticable. At noon we were abreast of a high headland; the
+extremes of the land bore south-west half west, and north-north-east half
+east; our distance offshore being three miles; latitude by observation 9
+degrees 59 minutes south; and my longitude by dead reckoning from the
+north part of New Holland 15 degrees 6 minutes west.
+
+With the usual allowance of bread and water for dinner I divided the bird
+we had caught the night before, and to the surgeon and Lebogue I gave a
+little wine.
+
+The wind blew fresh at east and east-south-east with very hazy weather.
+During the afternoon we continued our course along a low shore covered
+with innumerable palm-trees, called the Fan Palm from the leaf spreading
+like a fan; but here we saw no signs of cultivation, nor had the country
+so fine an appearance as to the eastward. This however was only a small
+tract, for by sunset it improved again and I saw several great smokes
+where the inhabitants were clearing and cultivating their grounds. We had
+now run 25 miles to the west-south-west since noon and were west five
+miles from a low point which, in the afternoon, I imagined had been the
+southernmost land, and here the coast formed a deep bend with low land in
+the bight that appeared like islands. The west shore was high; but from
+this part of the coast to the high cape which we were abreast of at noon
+the shore is low and I believe shoal. I particularly remark this
+situation because here the very high ridge of mountains that run from the
+east end of the island, terminate, and the appearance of the country
+changes for the worse.
+
+That we might not run past any settlement in the night I determined to
+preserve my station till the morning and therefore brought to under a
+close-reefed foresail. We were here in shoal water, our distance from the
+shore being half a league, the westernmost land in sight bearing
+west-south-west half west. Served bread and water for supper and, the
+boat lying to very well, all but the officer of the watch endeavoured to
+get a little sleep.
+
+Saturday 13.
+
+At two in the morning we wore and stood in shore till daylight when I
+found we had drifted during the night about three leagues to the
+west-south-west, the southernmost land in sight bearing west. On
+examining the coast and not seeing any sign of a settlement we bore away
+to the westward having a strong gale against a weather current which
+occasioned much sea. The shore was high and covered with wood, but we did
+not run far before low land again formed the coast, the points of which
+opening at west I once more fancied we were on the south part of the
+island; but at ten o'clock we found the coast again inclining towards the
+south, part of it bearing west-south-west half west. At the same time
+high land appeared in the south-west; but the weather was so hazy that it
+was doubtful whether the two lands were separated, the opening only
+extending one point of the compass. For this reason I stood towards the
+outer land and found it to be the island Roti.
+
+I returned to the shore we had left and brought to a grapnel in a sandy
+bay that I might more conveniently calculate my situation. In this place
+we saw several smokes where the natives were clearing their grounds.
+During the little time we remained here the master and carpenter very
+much importuned me to let them go in search of supplies; to which at
+length I assented but, not finding any other person willing to be of
+their party, they did not choose to quit the boat. I stopped here no
+longer than for the purpose just mentioned,  and we continued steering
+alongshore. We had a view of a beautiful-looking country as if formed by
+art into lawns and parks. The coast is low and covered with woods in
+which are innumerable fan palm-trees that look like coconut walks. The
+interior part is high land but very different from the more eastern parts
+of the island where it is exceedingly mountainous and to appearance the
+soil better.
+
+At noon the island Roti bore south-west by west seven leagues. I had no
+observation for the latitude but by account we were in 10 degrees 12
+minutes south; our course since yesterday noon being south 77 degrees
+west 54 miles. The usual allowance of bread and water was served for
+breakfast and dinner, and to the surgeon and Lebogue I continued to give
+wine.
+
+We had a strong breeze at east-south-east with hazy weather all the
+afternoon. At two o'clock, having run through a very dangerous breaking
+sea, the cause of which I attributed to be a strong tide setting to
+windward, and shoal water, we discovered a spacious bay or sound with a
+fair entrance about two or three miles wide. I now conceived hopes that
+our voyage was nearly at an end as no place could appear more eligible
+for shipping or more likely to be chosen for a European settlement: I
+therefore came to a grapnel near the east side of the entrance in a small
+sandy bay where we saw a hut, a dog, and some cattle, and I immediately
+sent the boatswain and gunner away to the hut to discover the
+inhabitants.
+
+The south-west point of the entrance bore west half south three miles;
+the south-east point south by west three-quarters of a mile; and the
+island Roti from south by west one quarter west to south-west one quarter
+west about five leagues.
+
+While we lay here I found the ebb came from the northward, and before our
+departure the falling of the tide discovered to us a reef of rocks about
+two cables length from the shore, the whole being covered at high-water
+renders it dangerous. On the opposite shore also appeared very high
+breakers; but there is nevertheless plenty of room and certainly a safe
+channel for a first-rate man of war.
+
+The bay or sound within, seemed to be of a considerable extent, the
+northern part being about five leagues distant. Here the land made in
+moderate risings joined by lower grounds. But the island Roti to the
+southward is the best mark by which to know this place.
+
+I had just time to make these remarks when I saw the boatswain and gunner
+returning with some of the natives: I therefore no longer doubted of our
+success and that our expectations would be fully gratified. They brought
+five Indians and informed me that they had found two families where the
+women treated them with European politeness. From these people I learned
+that the governor resided at a place called Coupang which was some
+distance to the north-east. I made signs for one of them to go in the
+boat and show us the way to Coupang, intimating that I would pay him for
+his trouble: the man readily complied and came into the boat.
+
+These people were of a dark tawny colour, had long black hair, and chewed
+a great deal of betel. Their dress was a square piece of cloth round the
+hips in the folds of which was stuck a large knife; a handkerchief
+wrapped round the head, and another hanging by the four corners from the
+shoulders, which served as a bag for their betel equipage. They brought
+us a few pieces of dried turtle and some ears of Indian corn. This last
+was the most welcome; for the turtle was so hard that it could not be
+eaten without being first soaked in hot water. They offered to bring us
+some other refreshments if I would wait, but as the pilot was willing I
+determined to push on. It was about half an hour past four when we
+sailed.
+
+By direction of the pilot we kept close to the east shore under all our
+sail; but as night came on the wind died away and we were obliged to try
+at the oars which I was surprised to see we could use with some effect.
+At ten o'clock, finding we advanced but slowly, I came to a grapnel and
+for the first time I issued double allowance of bread and a little wine
+to each person.
+
+Sunday 14.
+
+At one o'clock in the morning, after the most happy and sweet sleep that
+ever men enjoyed, we weighed and continued to keep the east shore on
+board in very smooth water; when at last I found we were again open to
+the sea, the whole of the land to the westward that we had passed being
+an island which the pilot called Pulo Samow. The northern entrance of
+this channel is about a mile and a half or two miles wide and I had no
+ground at ten fathoms.
+
+The report of two cannon that were fired gave new life to everyone; and
+soon after we discovered two square-rigged vessels and a cutter at anchor
+to the eastward. We endeavoured to work to windward but were obliged to
+take to our oars again, having lost ground on each tack. We kept close to
+the shore and continued rowing till four o'clock when I brought to a
+grapnel and gave another allowance of bread and wine to all hands. As
+soon as we had rested a little we weighed again, and rowed till near
+daylight when we came to a grapnel off a small fort and town which the
+pilot told me was Coupang.
+
+Among the things which the boatswain had thrown into the boat before we
+left the ship was a bundle of signal flags that had been used by the
+boats to show the depth of water in sounding; with these we had in the
+course of the passage made a small jack which I now hoisted in the main
+shrouds as a signal of distress, for I did not think proper to land
+without leave.
+
+Soon after daybreak a soldier hailed us to land, which I immediately did
+among a crowd of Indians, and was agreeably surprised to meet with an
+English sailor who belonged to one of the vessels in the road. His
+captain he told me was the second person in the town; I therefore desired
+to be conducted to him as I was informed the governor was ill and could
+not then be spoken with.
+
+Captain Spikerman received me with great humanity. I informed him of our
+distressed situation; and requested that care might be taken of those who
+were with me without delay. On which he gave directions for their
+immediate reception at his own house, and went himself to the governor to
+know at what time I could be permitted to see him, which was fixed to be
+at eleven o'clock.
+
+I now desired my people to come on shore which was as much as some of
+them could do, being scarce able to walk: they however were helped to the
+house and found tea with bread and butter provided for their breakfast.
+
+The abilities of a painter, perhaps, could seldom have been displayed to
+more advantage than in the delineation of the two groups of figures which
+at this time presented themselves to each other. An indifferent spectator
+would have been at a loss which most to admire, the eyes of famine
+sparkling at immediate relief, or the horror of their preservers at the
+sight of so many spectres, whose ghastly countenances, if the cause had
+been unknown, would rather have excited terror than pity. Our bodies were
+nothing but skin and bones, our limbs were full of sores, and we were
+clothed in rags: in this condition, with the tears of joy and gratitude
+flowing down our cheeks, the people of Timor beheld us with a mixture of
+horror, surprise, and pity.
+
+The governor, Mr. William Adrian van Este, notwithstanding extreme
+ill-health, became so anxious about us that I saw him before the
+appointed time. He received me with great affection and gave me the
+fullest proofs that he was possessed of every feeling of a humane and
+good man. Sorry as he was, he said, that such a calamity could ever have
+happened to us, yet he considered it as the greatest blessing of his life
+that we had fallen under his protection and, though his infirmity was so
+great that he could not do the office of a friend himself, he would give
+such orders as I might be certain would procure us every supply we
+wanted. A house should be immediately prepared for me, and with respect
+to my people he said that I might have room for them either at the
+hospital or on board of captain Spikerman's ship which lay in the road;
+and he expressed much uneasiness that Coupang could not afford them
+better accommodations, the house assigned to me being the only one
+uninhabited and the situation of the few families that lived at this
+place such that they could not conveniently receive strangers. For the
+present till matters could be properly regulated he gave directions that
+victuals for my people should be dressed at his own house.
+
+On returning to Captain Spikerman's house I found that every kind relief
+had been given to my people. The surgeon had dressed their sores and the
+cleaning of their persons had not been less attended to, several friendly
+gifts of apparel having been presented to them.
+
+I desired to be shown to the house that was intended for me, which I
+found ready with servants to attend. It consisted of a hall, with a room
+at each end, and a loft overhead; and was surrounded by a piazza with an
+outer apartment in one corner and a communication from the back part of
+the house to the street. I therefore determined, instead of separating
+from my people, to lodge them all with me; and I divided the house as
+follows: one room I took to myself, the other I allotted to the master,
+surgeon, Mr. Nelson, and the gunner; the loft to the other officers, and
+the outer apartment to the men. The hall was common to the officers and
+the men had the back piazza. Of this disposition I informed the governor,
+and he sent down chairs, tables and benches, with bedding and other
+necessaries for the use of everyone.
+
+The governor when I took my leave had desired me to acquaint him with
+everything of which I stood in need; but it was only at particular times
+that he had a few moments of ease, or could attend to anything, being in
+a dying state with an incurable disease. On this account I transacted
+whatever business I had with Mr. Timotheus Wanjon, the second of this
+place, who was the governor's son-in-law, and who also contributed
+everything in his power to make our situation comfortable. I had been,
+therefore, misinformed by the seaman who told me that captain Spikerman
+was the next person in command to the governor.
+
+At noon a dinner was brought to the house sufficiently good to make
+persons more accustomed to plenty eat too much. Yet I believe few in such
+a situation would have observed more moderation than my people did. My
+greatest apprehension was that they would eat too much fruit, of which
+there was great variety in season at this time.
+
+Having seen everyone enjoy this meal of plenty I dined myself with Mr.
+Wanjon; but I felt no extraordinary inclination to eat or drink. Rest and
+quiet I considered as more necessary to the reestablishment of my health
+and therefore retired soon to my room which I found furnished with every
+convenience. But instead of rest my mind was disposed to reflect on our
+late sufferings, and on the failure of the expedition; but above all on
+the thanks due to Almighty God who had given us power to support and bear
+such heavy calamities and had enabled me at last to be the means of
+saving eighteen lives.
+
+In times of difficulty there will generally arise circumstances that bear
+particularly hard on a commander. In our late situation it was not the
+least of my distresses to be constantly assailed with the melancholy
+demands of my people for an increase of allowance which it grieved me to
+refuse. The necessity of observing the most rigid economy in the
+distribution of our provisions was so evident that I resisted their
+solicitations and never deviated from the agreement we made at setting
+out. The consequence of this care was that at our arrival we had still
+remaining sufficient for eleven days at our scanty allowance: and if we
+had been so unfortunate as to have missed the Dutch settlement at Timor
+we could have proceeded to Java where I was certain that every supply we
+wanted could be procured.
+
+Another disagreeable circumstance to which my situation exposed me was
+the caprice of ignorant people. Had I been incapable of acting they would
+have carried the boat on shore as soon as we made the island of Timor
+without considering that landing among the natives at a distance from the
+European settlement might have been as dangerous as among any other
+Indians.
+
+The quantity of provisions with which we left the ship was not more than
+we should have consumed in five days had there been no necessity for
+husbanding our stock. The mutineers must naturally have concluded that we
+could have no other place of refuge than the Friendly Islands for it was
+not likely they should imagine that, so poorly equipped as we were in
+every respect, there could have been a possibility of our attempting to
+return homewards: much less can they suspect that the account of their
+villainy has already reached their native country.
+
+When I reflect how providentially our lives were saved at Tofoa by the
+Indians delaying their attack and that, with scarce anything to support
+life, we crossed a sea of more than 1200 leagues, without shelter from
+the inclemency of the weather; when I reflect that in an open boat with
+so much stormy weather we escaped foundering, that not any of us were
+taken off by disease, that we had the great good fortune to pass the
+unfriendly natives of other countries without accident, and at last
+happily to meet with the most friendly and best of people to relieve our
+distresses; I say when I reflect on all these wonderful escapes the
+remembrance of such great mercies enables me to bear, with resignation
+and cheerfulness, the failure of an expedition the success of which I had
+so much at heart and which was frustrated at a time when I was
+congratulating myself on the fairest prospect of being able to complete
+it in a manner that would fully have answered the intention of His
+Majesty and the humane promoters of so benevolent a plan.
+
+With respect to the preservation of our health during a course of 16 days
+of heavy and almost continual rain I would recommend to everyone in a
+similar situation the method we practised which is to dip their clothes
+in the salt-water and wring them out as often as they become filled with
+rain: it was the only resource we had, and I believe was of the greatest
+service to us, for it felt more like a change of dry clothes than could
+well be imagined. We had occasion to do this so often that at length all
+our clothes were wrung to pieces: for, except the few days we passed on
+the coast of New Holland, we were continually wet either with rain or
+sea.
+
+Thus through the assistance of Divine Providence we surmounted the
+difficulties and distresses of a most perilous voyage and arrived safe in
+an hospitable port where every necessary and comfort were administered to
+us with a most liberal hand.
+
+
+CHAPTER 18.
+
+At Coupang.
+
+JUNE 1789.
+
+TIMOR.
+
+From the great humanity and attention of the governor and the gentlemen
+at Coupang we received every kind of assistance and were not long without
+evident signs of returning health. Shortly after our arrival I presented
+to the governor a formal account of the loss of the Bounty; and a
+requisition in His Majesty's name that instructions might be sent to all
+the Dutch settlements to stop the ship if she made her appearance. With
+this a complete descriptive list of the mutineers was given.
+
+I likewise requested in one of my first visits to the governor that
+Nelson might have permission to walk about the country in search of
+plants, which was readily granted with an offer of whatever assistance I
+should think necessary: and the governor assured me that the country was
+well worth examination as it abounded with many curious and medicinal
+plants. From this indulgence I derived no benefit, for Nelson, who since
+we left New Holland had been but in a weak condition, about this time was
+taken ill in consequence of a cold caused by imprudently leaving off warm
+clothing.
+
+To secure our arrival at Batavia before the October fleet sailed for
+Europe I gave public notice of my intention to hire a vessel to carry us
+to Batavia. In consequence of this notice several offers were made but
+none that I thought reasonable; which determined me to purchase a small
+schooner in the road, that was 34 feet long, for which I gave 1000
+rix-dollars and fitted her for sea under the name of His Majesty's
+schooner Resource. As the coast of Java is frequently infested with small
+piratical vessels it was necessary that we should be provided with the
+proper means of defence. In this I was assisted by the friendship of Mr.
+Wanjon who supplied me with four brass swivels, 14 stand of small arms,
+and ammunition, which he obligingly let me have as a loan to be returned
+at Batavia.
+
+July 20.
+
+On the 20th of July I had the misfortune to lose Mr. David Nelson: he
+died of an inflammatory fever. The loss of this honest man I very much
+lamented: he had with great care and diligence attended to the object for
+which he was sent, and had always been ready to forward every plan that
+was proposed, for the good of the service in which we were engaged. He
+was not less useful in our voyage hither, in the course of which he gave
+me great satisfaction, by the patience and fortitude with which he
+conducted himself.
+
+July 21.
+
+This day I was employed attending the funeral of Mr. Nelson. The corpse
+was carried by twelve soldiers dressed in black preceded by the minister;
+next followed myself and the second governor; then ten gentlemen of the
+town and the officers of the ships in the harbour; and after them my own
+officers and people.
+
+After reading our burial-service the body was interred behind the chapel,
+in the burying-ground appropriated to the Europeans of the town. I was
+sorry I could get no tombstone to place over his remains.
+
+This was the second voyage Mr. Nelson had undertaken to the South Seas,
+having been sent out by Sir Joseph Banks to collect plants, seeds, etc.
+in Captain Cook's last voyage. And now, after surmounting so many
+difficulties, and in the midst of thankfulness for his deliverance, he
+was called upon to pay the debt of nature at a time least expected.
+
+August 20.
+
+Our schooner being victualled and ready for sea, on the 20th of August I
+took an affectionate leave of the hospitable and friendly inhabitants of
+Coupang and embarked. In the afternoon we sailed, having the launch which
+had so much contributed to our preservation in tow. We exchanged salutes
+with the fort and shipping as we ran out of the harbour.
+
+The town of Coupang is situated in a great bay which is an excellent road
+for shipping. The latitude of the town is 10 degrees 12 minutes south.
+According to the Dutch charts it is in 121 degrees 51 minutes east
+longitude. Taking the mean between the longitude by my reckoning on our
+arrival at Coupang, and the longitude afterwards calculated from our run
+to Batavia, gives me for the longitude of Coupang 124 degrees 41 minutes
+east.
+
+This settlement was formed in the year 1630 and is the only one the Dutch
+have on the island Timor. They have residents in different parts of the
+country. On the north side of Timor there is a Portuguese settlement. The
+produce of the island is chiefly sandalwood and beeswax: the former
+article is now scarce. Wax they have in great plenty. The bees build
+their nests in bushes and in the boughs of trees to which the natives
+cannot approach but with fire. The honey is put into jars and the wax is
+run into blocks of three feet in length and from 12 to 15 inches square.
+The natives, at least those who live in the neighbourhood of Coupang, are
+of a very indolent disposition, of which the Chinese have taken
+advantage, for, though the Malays are very fond of traffic, most of their
+trade is carried on in small Chinese vessels of from 10 to 30 tons
+burden. There is a market at Coupang for the country people in which
+however there is little business done. I have seen a man from the country
+come to market with two potatoes: and this is not unusual. These being
+sold for two doits (equal to a halfpenny English) serve to supply him
+with betel to chew; and the remainder of the day is passed in lounging
+about the town. The inland people, who live at a distance from the
+Europeans, are strong and active, but their want of cleanliness subjects
+them to filthy diseases.
+
+The chief of the natives, or king of the island, is by the Dutch styled
+Keyfer (Emperor). This prince lives at a place called Backennassy, about
+four miles distant from Coupang. His authority over the natives is not
+wholly undisputed; which is by the Dutch attributed to the intrigues of
+the Portuguese, who are on the north part of Timor. The island has lately
+suffered much by a competition between the present king and one of his
+nephews, which caused a civil war that lasted from the beginning of the
+year 1786 to 1788, when their differences were settled by a treaty,
+chiefly in favour of the king. The ravages committed in these disputes
+have occasioned a scarcity of provisions that probably, from the want of
+industry in the natives, will not soon be remedied. I had an opportunity
+of making a visit to the king. His dwelling was a large house which was
+divided into only three apartments and surrounded by a piazza, agreeably
+situated but very dirty, as was all the furniture. The king, who is an
+elderly man, received me with much civility and ordered refreshments to
+be set before me, which were tea, rice cakes, roasted Indian corn, and
+dried buffalo flesh, with about a pint of arrack, which I believe was all
+he had. His dress was a check wrapper girded round his waist with a silk
+and gold belt, a loose linen jacket, and a coarse handkerchief about his
+head. A few of his chiefs were with him who partook of our repast; after
+which the king retired with three of them for a short time and when he
+returned presented me with a round plate of metal about four inches
+diameter on which was stamped the figure of a star. As I had been
+informed that arrack would be an acceptable present I was prepared to
+make a return which was well received. They never dilute their liquor and
+from habit are able to drink a large quantity of spirits at a time
+without being intoxicated.
+
+When a king dies a large feast is made to which all the inhabitants are
+invited. The body after a few days is put into a coffin which is closed
+up and kept three years before it is interred.
+
+The Dutch have been at some pains to establish Christianity among the
+natives: but it has not gained much ground, except in the neighbourhood
+of Coupang. The present king was christened by the name of Barnardus. His
+Indian name is Bachee Bannock. The scriptures are translated into the
+Malay language and prayers are performed in the church at Coupang by a
+Malay clergyman, in that language.
+
+I met at Timor with most of the fruits that are described in Captain
+Cook's first voyage as natives of Batavia, except the mangosteen. The
+breadfruit tree, called by the Malays soccoom, likewise grows here with
+great luxuriance and appears to be as much a native of this island as it
+is of Otaheite. The fruit is exactly of the same kind but not so good. A
+breadfruit of Timor weighs half as much more as one of equal size at
+Otaheite. It is not used here as bread but generally eaten with milk and
+sugar. At Backennassy I saw about twenty of the trees, larger than any I
+have seen at Otaheite. Here is also a sort of breadfruit tree that
+produces seeds not unlike Windsor beans and equally palatable either
+boiled or roasted. No other part of the fruit is eatable and, though the
+tree I am told is to all appearance the same as the other, the fruits
+have but little resemblance, the fruit of this being covered with
+projecting points nearly half an inch in length.
+
+I received a present of some fine plants from the governor, which I was
+afterwards unfortunately obliged to leave at Batavia for want of proper
+room to take care of them in the packet by which I returned to Europe.
+Mr. Wanjon likewise favoured me with some seeds for His Majesty's garden
+at Kew which I had the good fortune to deliver safe on my return: and
+some of the mountain rice cultivated at Timor on the dry land, which was
+forwarded to His Majesty's botanic garden at St. Vincent, and to other
+parts in the West Indies.
+
+A resemblance of language between the people of the South Sea islands and
+the inhabitants of many of the islands in the East Indies has been
+remarked in Captain Cook's first voyage. Here the resemblance appeared
+stronger than has yet been noticed; particularly in their numerals. But
+besides the language I observed some customs among the people of Timor
+still more striking for their similarity. They practise the tooge-tooge*
+of the Friendly Islands which they call toombock: and the roomee of
+Otaheite which they call ramas. I likewise saw, placed on their graves,
+offerings of baskets with tobacco and betel.
+
+(*Footnote. The tooge-tooge is described in Captain Cook's last voyage
+Volume 1 page 323; and the roomee in the same voyage Volume 2 page 64.)
+
+I left the governor Mr. van Este at the point of death. To this gentleman
+our most grateful thanks are due for the humane and friendly treatment
+that we received from him. His ill state of health only prevented him
+from showing us more particular marks of attention. Unhappily it is to
+his memory only that I now pay this tribute. It was a fortunate
+circumstance for us that Mr. Wanjon, the next in place to the governor,
+was equally humane and ready to relieve us. His attention was unremitting
+and, when there was a doubt about supplying me with money to enable me to
+purchase a vessel, he cheerfully took it upon himself; without which it
+was evident, I should have been too late at Batavia to have sailed for
+Europe with the October fleet. I can only return such services by ever
+retaining a grateful remembrance of them.
+
+Mr. Max the town surgeon likewise behaved to us with the most
+disinterested humanity: he attended everyone with the utmost care, for
+which I could not prevail on him to receive any payment, or to render me
+any account, or other answer than that it was his duty.
+
+
+CHAPTER 19.
+
+From Timor to Batavia.
+
+AUGUST 1789.
+
+Thursday 20.
+
+From Coupang we steered north-west by west having a moderate breeze at
+south-east with fair weather.
+
+Saturday 22.
+
+At daylight we saw the island Flores to the northward. At noon latitude
+observed 9 degrees 27 minutes south, and longitude by account from
+Coupang 2 degrees 10 minutes west. Our distance from the coast of Flores
+was about 10 leagues; and two high peaked mountains bore north half east
+and north-north-west. These two mountains resemble each other in shape
+and the westernmost is a volcano. The interior parts of Flores are
+mountainous and woody: but near the sea-coast is a fine open country. A
+Dutch map with which I was provided places the south part of Flores in 9
+degrees 3 minutes south which I am of opinion is too far south. We
+steered along the south side of Flores, mostly with light winds and hazy
+weather, so that we did not constantly keep sight of the coast.
+
+Tuesday 25.
+
+At noon we were off Toorns island which bore north-west by north three or
+four leagues distant. Our latitude observed was 8 degrees 57 minutes
+south and longitude made by dead reckoning from Coupang 3 degrees 27
+minutes west. Toorns island is about four leagues in circuit and has a
+craggy and uneven appearance. There is a curious high peak on the
+south-west part: the land near the shore is low and woody.
+
+Thursday 27.
+
+On the 27th at noon we were near the entrance of the Straits of Mangaryn,
+which not appearing so open and clear as represented in the map, I
+steered for the straits of Sapi, intending to pass through; but was
+obliged to give up this plan by strong currents setting to the south-east
+which there was not sufficient wind to enable us to stem.
+
+Saturday 29.
+
+I therefore again stood for the Straits of Mangaryn which we ran through
+in the afternoon of the 29th, being favoured with a fresh breeze from the
+south-south-east. On our first entering the straits we got close to the
+Flores shore: our course through was north half east. We tried for
+soundings but could not anywhere find bottom at 25 and 30 fathoms depth.
+On the Flores side there are many good harbours and bays where vessels
+may anchor; but the country hereabouts appears burnt up and desolate.
+
+I had no azimuth-compass and consequently could not observe very
+accurately the variation; but I believe there is so little in Mangaryn
+Straits that no great error will be occasioned by considering the true
+and magnetic bearings to be the same.
+
+When we had passed the straits we kept to the westward, running along the
+north side of the island Sumbawa, where there is a very high mountain
+near the coast, at the foot of which I am informed, are many runs of good
+water, conveniently situated for ships to supply themselves. The latitude
+of the north part of Sumbawa I make by my observations and bearings to be
+8 degrees 6 minutes south, which differs very little from the Dutch
+charts.
+
+Monday 31.
+
+In the night of the 31st several prows were rowing about us, on which
+account we kept all night under arms.
+
+September. Thursday 3.
+
+This and the two following days we were sailing along the north side of
+the island Lombok, on which is a high mountain. Most of the islands in
+this route are distinguished by high mountains. Lombok appears to be well
+clothed with wood. In the nights we saw fires upon the high lands at a
+distance from the coast.
+
+Sunday 6.
+
+In the afternoon we saw the high land of Cape Sandana, which is the
+north-east part of Java.
+
+Monday 7.
+
+The next day we were off cape Sandana which is a low cape projecting from
+the high land already mentioned. This cape is placed by the Dutch maps in
+7 degrees 52 minutes south. But according to my observation and our
+estimated distance from the land I make it in 7 degrees 46 minutes south
+latitude. The longitude by my dead reckoning from Coupang to Cape Sandana
+was 11 degrees 33 minutes west.
+
+Thursday 10.
+
+We steered to the westward along the coast of Java and on the 10th at
+noon we anchored off Passourwang, a Dutch settlement on the coast of
+Java, in two fathoms, distant from the shore half a league, the entrance
+of the river bearing south-west. The coast hereabouts so is shoal that
+large ships are obliged to anchor three or four miles from the land. As
+soon as we were at anchor I got in my boat and went on shore. The banks
+of the river near the entrance were mud, on which grew a few mangrove
+bushes. Among them we saw hogs running and many were laying dead in the
+mud, which caused a most intolerable stench and made me heartily repent
+having come here; but after proceeding about a mile up the river, the
+course of which was serpentine, we found a very pleasant country and
+landed at a small and well-constructed fort, where I was received in a
+friendly and polite manner by M. Adrian van Rye, the commandant. By the
+return of the boat I sent on board a small bullock and other provisions.
+I likewise took a pilot to conduct us to Sourabaya.
+
+The houses at Passourwang are neatly built and the country appears to be
+well cultivated. The produce of this settlement is rice, of which they
+export large quantities. There are but few Dutch here: the Javanese are
+numerous and their chief lives with considerable splendour. They have
+good roads and posts are established along the coast; and it appears to
+be a busy and well-regulated settlement. Latitude 7 degrees 36 minutes
+south. Longitude 1 degree 44 minutes west of Cape Sandana.
+
+Friday 11.
+
+The next day about noon we sailed.
+
+Saturday 12.
+
+And on the 12th in the evening anchored in Sourabaya road in seven
+fathoms: the flagstaff bearing south one quarter west; distance from the
+shore one mile. We found riding here seven square-rigged and several
+smaller vessels.
+
+It was too late when we anchored to send a boat on shore.
+
+Sunday 13.
+
+The next morning before daylight three guard-boats stationed themselves
+near us and I was informed that I must not land or send a boat on shore.
+This restriction I learnt from the officer of the guard-boats was in
+conformity to general orders concerning all strange vessels on their
+first arrival. At nine in the forenoon leave came off for us to land and
+soon after the guard-boats quitted us.
+
+I was received on shore with great civility and friendship by the
+governor or Opperhoost M. Ant. Barkay, and the commandant of the troops
+M. de Bose. By these gentlemen I was hospitably entertained, and advised
+to remain till the 16th when some vessels were to sail, with whom I might
+keep company, which they recommended on account of pirates.
+
+Sourabaya is one of the most pleasant places I ever saw. It is situated
+on the banks of a river and is a mile and a half distant from the
+seashore so that only the flagstaff can be seen from the road. The river
+is navigable up to the town for vessels of 100 tons burden, and the bank
+on one side is made convenient for tracking. The Chinese carry on a
+considerable trade here, and have a town or camp on the side of the river
+opposite to Sourabaya. The country near the town is flat and the soil
+light, so that they plow with a single bullock or buffalo (karrabow). The
+interior parts of the country near the mountains are infested with a
+breed of fierce tigers, which makes travelling inland very dangerous.
+They have here a breed of horses which are small but they are handsome
+and strong.
+
+The Javanese in this neighbourhood are numerous. M. Barkay and M. de Bose
+took me with them to pay a visit to two of the principal natives, whom we
+found attended by a number of men armed with pikes in great military
+order. We were entertained with a concert of music; the instruments were
+gongs, drums, and a fiddle with two strings. I hired a pilot here to
+carry us to Batavia. Our latitude observed in Sourabaya road was 7
+degrees 11 minutes south. Longitude made from Cape Sandana 1 degree 52
+minutes west.
+
+Thursday 17.
+
+On the 17th we sailed from Sourabaya in company with three prows. At noon
+we anchored at Crissey which is a town with a small fort belonging to the
+Dutch. We remained here about two hours and then weighed. Latitude of
+Crissey 7 degrees 9 minutes south. Longitude from Cape Sandana 1 degree
+55 minutes west.
+
+The navigation through the Straits of Madura is so intricate that with
+the little opportunity I had I am unable to undertake a description of
+it.
+
+Friday 18.
+
+The next day, having passed the straits, we bore away to the westward
+along the coast of Java in company with the prows before mentioned.
+
+Tuesday 22.
+
+We had regular soundings all the way to Samarang, off which place we
+anchored on the 22nd in the afternoon; the church bearing south-east;
+distance from the shore half a league: depth of water two fathoms. The
+shoalness of the coast here makes the road of Samarang very inconvenient,
+both on account of the great distance that large ships (of which there
+were several in the road) are obliged to lay from the shore, and of the
+landing which is in a river that cannot be entered before half-flood.
+This river resembles the one at Passourwang, the shores being low with
+offensive dead animals laying about. I was met at the landing-place by
+the equipage-master, and he furnished me with a carriage to carry me to
+the governor, whose residence is about two miles from the town of
+Samarang. I requested and obtained leave to have our wants supplied,
+which were to recruit our provisions, and to get a any mainmast, having
+sprung ours in the passage from Sourabaya.
+
+Samarang is a fortified town surrounded by a wall and ditch, and is the
+most considerable settlement next to Batavia that the Dutch have in Java.
+Here is a very good hospital and a public school, chiefly for teaching
+the mathematics. They have likewise a theatre. Provisions are remarkably
+cheap here, beef being at ten doits per pound and the price of a fowl 12
+doits.
+
+I experienced great civility from some of the gentlemen at Samarang,
+particularly from M. le Baron de Bose, a merchant, brother to the M. de
+Bose, commandant of the troops at Sourabaya: and from M. Abegg, the
+surgeon of the hospital, to whom we were indebted for advice and
+medicines for which he would not consent to receive payment.
+
+The latitude of Samarang is 6 degrees 57 minutes. Longitude by my
+reckoning from Cape Sandana 4 degrees 7 minutes west.
+
+Saturday 26.
+
+On the 26th we sailed from Samarang and with us a galley mounting six
+swivels which the governor had directed to accompany us to Batavia.
+
+October. Thursday 1.
+
+On the 1st of October we anchored in Batavia road, where we found riding
+a Dutch ship of war and 20 sail of Dutch East India ships, besides many
+smaller vessels.
+
+
+CHAPTER 20.
+
+Occurrences at Batavia and Passage thence to England.
+
+OCTOBER 1789.
+
+In the afternoon at four o'clock I went on shore and landed at a house by
+the river where strangers first stop and give an account who they are,
+whence they came, etc. From this place a Malay gentleman took me in a
+carriage to Sabandar, Mr. Engelhard, whose house was in the environs of
+the city on the side nearest the shipping. The Sabandar is the officer
+with whom all strangers are obliged to transact their business: at least
+the whole must go through his hands. With him I went to pay my respects
+to the governor-general who received me with great civility. I acquainted
+his excellency with my situation and requested my people might be taken
+care of and that we should be allowed to take a passage to Europe in the
+first ship that sailed. I likewise desired permission to sell the
+schooner and launch. All this his excellency told me should be granted. I
+then took leave and returned with the Sabandar who wrote down the
+particulars of my wants in order to form from them a regular petition to
+be presented to the council the next day. I had brought from the governor
+of Coupang, directed for the governor-general at Batavia, the account of
+my voyage and misfortune, translated into Dutch from an account that I
+had given to Mr. van Este. So attentive had they been at Timor to
+everything that related to us.
+
+There is a large hotel at Batavia fitted up purposely for the
+accommodation of strangers, who are not allowed to reside at any other
+place. It is situated near the great river in a part of the city that is
+reckoned the most airy and healthy. Nevertheless I found the air hot and
+suffocating and was taken ill in the night with a violent pain in my
+head.
+
+Friday 2.
+
+The next morning at nine the council sat and I attended, accompanied by
+the Sabandar; and was informed that the council had complied with all I
+had requested.
+
+When I returned to the hotel my headache increased and a violent fever
+came on. I sent to acquaint the Sabandar of my situation and was soon
+after attended by the head surgeon of the town hospital Mr. Aansorp, by
+whose care and skill in less than 24 hours the fever considerably abated
+but a severe headache continued. I had an invitation from the
+governor-general to dine with him, which of course I was obliged to
+decline.
+
+I hired a carriage which cost three dollars per day for the benefit of
+taking an airing. My lodgings at the hotel were so close and hot that I
+desired the Sabandar to apply to the Governor-General for leave to hire a
+house in the country; which request his excellency not only immediately
+complied with but gave directions for my being accommodated at the house
+of the physician or surgeon-general Mr. Sparling.
+
+One of my people, Thomas Hall, being ill with a flux I obtained leave for
+him to be sent to the country hospital which is a convenient airy
+building.
+
+Tuesday 6.
+
+This morning at sunrise I left the hotel and was carried to Mr.
+Sparling's house, about four miles distant from the city and near the
+convalescent hospital which at this time had also sick men in it, the
+whole number of patients amounting to 800. I found everything prepared
+for my comfort and convenience. Mr. Sparling would suffer me to take no
+medicine though I had still considerable fever with headache: but I found
+so much relief from the difference of the air that in the evening I was
+able to accompany Mr. Sparling on a visit to the governor-general at one
+of his country seats, where we found many ladies all dressed in the Malay
+fashion, some of them richly ornamented with jewels. I had invitations
+from several gentlemen and some very kindly pressed me to make their
+country houses my abode till my health should be reestablished.
+
+My indisposition increasing, Mr. Sparling advised me to quit Batavia as
+speedily as possible and represented the necessity of it to the
+governor-general. I was informed from his excellency that the
+homeward-bound ships were so much crowded that there would be no
+possibility of all my people going in one ship, and that they could be
+accommodated no other way than by dividing them into different ships.
+Seeing therefore that a separation was unavoidable I determined to follow
+the advice of the physician and, as a packet was appointed to sail for
+Europe on the 16th instant, I sent to request of the governor that I
+might be allowed to take a passage in her for myself and as many of my
+people as they were able to receive. In answer to this I was acquainted
+that myself and two more could be accommodated in the packet, she being
+too small to admit a greater number; but that I might rest assured of
+passages being provided for those that remained by the earliest
+opportunities.
+
+Friday 9.
+
+This day anchored in the road the General Elliot, an English ship
+commanded by Captain Lloyd. In the Straits of Banca he had met with some
+boats belonging to the East India Company's ship Vansittart that was lost
+in the straits of Billaton by having struck on a rock that went through
+her bottom. Captain Wilson, who commanded the Vansittart, I was informed
+had just finished a survey of those Straits and was hoisting his boat in
+when the ship struck. Immediately on receiving the intelligence Captain
+Lloyd, in the General Elliot and another ship in company called the
+Nonsuch, sailed for the wreck. They found the ship had been burnt down to
+the water's edge by the Malays. They however saved 40 chests of treasure
+out of 55 which were said to have been on board. Most of the ship's
+company were saved: one man only was lost in the ship, and five others in
+a small boat were missing who were supposed to have taken some of the
+treasure. The greater part of the people went with Captain Wilson to
+China, and some were with Captain Lloyd.
+
+Saturday 10.
+
+This morning the Resource was sold by public auction: the custom at
+Batavia is to begin high and to lower the price till some person bids;
+and the first bidder is the buyer. She was accordingly put up at 2000
+rix-dollars but to my great disappointment no one offered to purchase
+before the auctioneer had lowered the demand to 295 rix-dollars, for
+which price she was sold, the purchaser being an Englishman, Captain John
+Eddie, who commanded an English ship from Bengal. If no strangers had
+been present at the sale I imagine they would have let her run down to
+200 dollars, in which case I should have had no alternative.
+
+The launch likewise was sold. The services she had rendered us made me
+feel great reluctance at parting with her; which I would not have done if
+I could have found a convenient opportunity of getting her conveyed to
+Europe.
+
+Little as the schooner had sold for I found I was in danger of having the
+sum lessened; for the Sabandar informed me that by an order of the
+council there was a duty on the sale of all vessels. With this demand I
+would by no means comply for I thought I had sufficiently suffered in
+sustaining a loss of 705 rix-dollars out of 1000 by the purchase and sale
+of the vessel, she having cost 1000 rix-dollars.
+
+This day Thomas Hall, whom I had sent to be taken care of at the
+hospital, died. He had been ill of a flux from the time of our arrival at
+Timor.
+
+Monday 12.
+
+I agreed with the captain of the packet for a passage to Europe for
+myself, my clerk, and a servant. The Sabandar informed me it was
+necessary that my officers and people should be examined before a notary
+respecting the loss of the Bounty, as otherwise the governor and council
+were not legally authorised to detain her if she should be found in any
+of the Dutch settlements. They were therefore at my desire examined, and
+afterwards made affidavit before the governor and council at the
+Stadthouse.
+
+My officers complaining to me of the unreasonableness of some tradesmen's
+bills I spoke to the Sabandar. A bill of 51 dollars for five hats he
+reduced to 30 dollars and in other articles made proportionable
+deductions.
+
+Paper money is the currency of Batavia and is so understood in all
+bargains. At this time paper was at 28 per cent discount: there is
+likewise a difference in the value of the ducatoon which at Batavia is 80
+stivers and in Holland only 63 stivers: this occasions a loss of 21 1/4
+per cent on remittance of money. It therefore follows that if any person
+at Batavia remits money by bills of exchange to Europe they lose by the
+discount and the exchange 49 1/4 per cent.
+
+Those who have accounts to pay and can give unexceptionable bills on
+Europe will find a considerable saving by negotiating their bills with
+private people who are glad to give for them a premium of 20 per cent at
+the least. This discovery I made somewhat too late to profit by.
+
+One of the greatest difficulties that strangers have to encounter is
+their being obliged to live at the hotel. This hotel was formerly two
+houses which by doors of communication have been made one. It is in the
+middle of a range of buildings more calculated for a cold country than
+for such a climate as Batavia. There is no free circulation of air and
+what is equally bad it is always very dirty; and there is great want of
+attendance. What they call cleaning the house is another nuisance; for
+they never use any water to cool it or to lay the dust, but sweep daily
+with brooms in such a manner that those in the house are almost
+suffocated by a cloud of dust.
+
+The months of December and January are reckoned the most unhealthy of the
+year, the heavy rains being then set in. The account of the seasons as
+given to me here I believe may be relied on.
+
+The middle of November the west monsoon begins and rain.
+
+December and January. Continual rain with strong westerly wind.
+
+February. Westerly wind. Towards the end of this month the rain begins to
+abate.
+
+March. Intervals of fine weather. Wind westerly.
+
+April. In this month the east monsoon begins. Weather generally fine with
+showers of rain.
+
+May. East monsoon fixed. Showery.
+
+June and July. Clear weather. Strong east wind.
+
+August and September. Wind more moderate.
+
+October. In this month the wind begins to be variable with showers of
+rain.
+
+The current is said always to run with the wind. Nevertheless I found the
+reverse in sailing from Timor to Java. Between the end of October and the
+beginning of the ensuing year no Dutch ship bound for Europe is allowed
+to sail from Batavia for fear of being near the Mauritius at the time of
+the hurricanes which are frequent there in December and January.
+
+My illness prevented me from gaining much knowledge of Batavia. Of their
+public buildings I saw nothing that gave me so much satisfaction as their
+country hospital for seamen. It is a large commodious and airy building
+about four miles from the town, close to the side of the river, or rather
+in the river: for the ground on which it stands has by labour been made
+an island of, and the sick are carried there in a boat: each ward is a
+separate dwelling and the different diseases are properly classed. They
+have sometimes 1400 patients in it: at this time there were 800, but more
+than half of these were recovered and fit for service, of whom 300 were
+destined for the fleet that was to sail for Europe. I went through most
+of the wards and there appeared great care and attention. The sheets,
+bedding, and linen of the sick were perfectly neat and clean. The house
+of the physician, Mr. Sparling, who has the management of the hospital is
+at one extremity of the building: and here it was that I resided. To the
+attention and care of this gentleman, for which he would receive no
+payment, I am probably indebted for my life.
+
+The hospital in the town is well attended, but the situation is so ill
+chosen that it certainly would be the saving of many lives to build one
+in its stead up the river, which might be done with great advantage as
+water carriage is so easy and convenient. A great neglect in some of the
+commanders of the shipping here was suffering their people to go dirty
+and frequently without frock, shirt, or anything to cover their bodies,
+which, besides being a public nuisance, must probably be productive of
+ill health in the most robust constitution.
+
+The governor-general gave me leave to lodge all my people at the country
+hospital which I thought a great advantage and with which they were
+perfectly satisfied. The officers however at their own request remained
+in the town.
+
+The time fixed for the sailing of the packet approaching, I settled my
+accounts with the Sabandar, leaving open the victualling account to be
+closed by Mr. Fryer the master previous to his departure, who I likewise
+authorised to supply the men and officers left under his command with one
+month's pay to enable them to purchase clothing for their passage to
+England.
+
+I had been at great pains to bring living plants from Timor, in six tubs,
+which contained jacks, nancas, karambolas, namnams, jambos, and three
+thriving breadfruit plants. These I thought might be serviceable at the
+Cape of Good Hope if brought no farther: but I had the mortification of
+being obliged to leave them all at Batavia. I took these plants on board
+at Coupang on the 20th of August: they had experienced a passage of 42
+days to my arrival here. The breadfruit plants died to the root and
+sprouted afresh from thence. The karambolas, jacks, nancas, and namnams I
+had raised from the seed and they were in fine order. No judgment can
+hence be formed of the success of transporting plants, as in the present
+trial they had many disadvantages.
+
+Friday 16.
+
+This morning being sunrise I embarked on board the Vlydte packet
+commanded by Captain Peter Couvret, bound for Middleburgh. With me
+likewise embarked Mr. John Samwell, clerk, and John Smith, seaman. Those
+of our company who stayed behind the governor promised me should follow
+in the first ships and be as little divided as possible. At 7 o'clock the
+packet weighed and sailed out of the road.
+
+Sunday 18.
+
+On the 18th we spoke the Rambler, an American brig belonging to Boston,
+bound to Batavia. After passing the Straits of Sunda we steered to the
+north of the Cocos Isles. These islands, Captain Couvret informed me, are
+full of coconut trees: there is no anchorage near them but good landing
+for boats. Their latitude 12 degrees 0 minutes south. Longitude 96
+degrees 5 minutes east.
+
+In the passage to the Cape of Good Hope there occurred nothing worth
+remark. I cannot however forbear noticing the Dutch manner of navigating.
+They steer by true compass, or rather endeavour so to do, by means of a
+small movable central card, which they set to the meridian: and whenever
+they discover the variation has altered 2 1/2 degrees since the last
+adjustment they again correct the central card. This is steering within a
+quarter of a point, without aiming at greater exactness. The officer of
+the watch likewise corrects the course for leeway by his own judgment
+before it is marked down in the log board. They heave no log: I was told
+that the company do not allow it. Their manner of computing their run is
+by means of a measured distance of 40 feet along the ship's side: they
+take notice of any remarkable patch of froth when it is abreast the
+foremost end of the measured distance, and count half seconds till the
+mark of froth is abreast the after end. With the number of half seconds
+thus obtained they divide the number 48, taking the product for the rate
+of sailing in geographical miles in one hour, or the number of Dutch
+miles in four hours.
+
+It is not usual to make any allowance to the sun's declination on account
+of being on a different meridian from that for which the tables are
+calculated: they in general compute with the numbers just as they are
+found in the table. From all this it is not difficult to conceive the
+reason why the Dutch are frequently above ten degrees out in their
+reckoning. Their passages likewise are considerably lengthened by not
+carrying a sufficient quantity of sail.
+
+December 16.
+
+In the afternoon we anchored in Table Bay.
+
+December 17.
+
+The next morning I went on shore and waited on his excellency M. Vander
+Graaf who received me in the most polite and friendly manner. The
+Guardian, commanded by Lieutenant Riou, had left the Cape about eight
+days before with cattle and stores for Port Jackson. This day anchored in
+table bay the Astree, a French frigate, commanded by the Count de St.
+Rivel from the Isle of France, on board of which ship was the late
+governor, the Chevalier d'Entrecasteaux. Other ships that arrived during
+my stay at the Cape were a French 40-gun frigate, an East India ship, and
+a brig, of the same nation: likewise two other French ships with slaves
+from the coast of Mozambique bound to the West Indies: a Dutch packet
+from Europe, after a four months passage: and the Harpy, a South Sea
+Whaler with 500 barrels of spermaceti, and 400 of seal and other oils.
+There is a standing order from the Dutch East India Company that no
+person who takes a passage from Batavia for Europe in any of their ships
+shall be allowed to leave the ship before she arrives at her intended
+port. According to which regulation I must have gone to Holland in the
+packet. Of this I was not informed till I was taking leave of the
+governor-general at Batavia, when it was too late for him to give the
+Captain an order to permit me to land in the channel. He however desired
+I would make use of his name to governor Vander Graaf, who readily
+complied with my request and gave the necessary orders to the Captain of
+the packet, a copy of which his excellency gave to me; and at the same
+time recommendatory letters to people of consequence in Holland in case I
+should be obliged to proceed so far.
+
+I left a letter at the Cape of Good Hope to be forwarded to governor
+Phillips at Port Jackson by the first opportunity, containing a short
+account of my voyage with a descriptive list of the pirates: and from
+Batavia I had written to Lord Cornwallis, so that every part of India
+will be prepared to receive them.
+
+Saturday 2.
+
+We sailed from the Cape in company with the Astree French frigate. The
+next morning neither ship nor land were in sight. On the 15th we passed
+in sight of the island St. Helena. The 21st we saw the island Ascension.
+On the 10th of February, the wind being at north-east blowing fresh, our
+sails were covered with a fine orange-coloured dust. Fuego, the
+westernmost of the Cape de Verde islands and the nearest land to us on
+that day at noon bore north-east by east half east, distance 140 leagues.
+When we had passed the latitude of the Western Islands a lookout was kept
+for some rocks which Captain Couvret had been informed lay in latitude 44
+degrees 25 minutes north and 2 degrees 50 minutes east longitude from the
+east end of St. Michael. This information Captain Couvret had received
+from a person that he knew and who said he had seen them. On the 13th of
+March we saw the Bill of Portland and on the evening of the next day,
+Sunday March the 14th, I left the packet and was landed at Portsmouth by
+an Isle of Wight boat.
+
+Those of my officers and people whom I left at Batavia were provided with
+passages in the earliest ships; and at the time we parted were apparently
+in good health. Nevertheless they did not all live to quit Batavia. Mr.
+Elphinstone, master's mate, and Peter Linkletter, seaman, died within a
+fortnight after my departure, the hardships they had experienced having
+rendered them unequal to cope with so unhealthy a climate as that of
+Batavia. The remainder embarked on board the Dutch fleet for Europe, and
+arrived safe at this country, except Robert Lamb, who died on the
+passage, and Mr. Ledward the surgeon who has not yet been heard of. Thus
+of nineteen who were forced by the mutineers into the launch it has
+pleased God that twelve should surmount the difficulties and dangers of
+the voyage and live to revisit their native country.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's A Voyage to the South Sea, by William Bligh
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEA ***
+
+***** This file should be named 15411.txt or 15411.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/4/1/15411/
+
+Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat.
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+https://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+https://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at https://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit https://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including including checks, online payments and credit card
+donations.  To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     https://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.