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diff --git a/15436-h/15436-h.htm b/15436-h/15436-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d203025 --- /dev/null +++ b/15436-h/15436-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,3661 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Transitional//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-transitional.dtd"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" /> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Journal of a Voyage from Okkak, on the Coast of Labrador, to Ungava Bay, Westward of Cape Chudleigh, by Benjamin Kohlmeister and George Kmoch</title> + <style type="text/css"> + /*<![CDATA[*/ + <!-- + body {margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; + text-align: justify; font-size: 120%; line-height: 120%} + table, td.toc {padding: .75em 0em 0em 0em} + table.pg {padding: .75em 0em 0em 0em; + font-size: 80%; + line-height: 100%; } + .pgt {font-size: 80%; + line-height: 100%; } + .pgtt {font-size: 173%; + line-height: 100%; } + .sig {margin-left: 10em} + .text p {text-indent: 1.5em; margin-top: 0em; + margin-bottom: .3em;} + .synopsis p {font-style: italic; margin: 1em 2em 1em 2em;} + .small p {text-align: center; font-weight: bold; + font-size: 65%; margin: 0em 2em 0em 2em;} + .figure {padding: 1em; margin: 0; text-align: center; + margin: auto;} + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {text-align: center;} + h2 {margin-bottom: 1em;} + pre {font-size: 0.6em; + line-height: 100%; } + hr.light {margin-right: 25%; margin-left: 25%;} + blockquote {font-size: 90%; margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%;} + + --> +/*]]>*/ +</style> +</head> +<body> +<h1 class="pgtt">The Project Gutenberg eBook, Journal of a Voyage from Okkak, on the Coast +of Labrador, to Ungava Bay, Westward of Cape Chudleigh, by Benjamin +Kohlmeister and George Kmoch</h1> +<pre> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p class="pgt">Title: Journal of a Voyage from Okkak, on the Coast of Labrador, to Ungava Bay, Westward of Cape Chudleigh</p> +<p class="pgt"> Undertaken to Explore the Coast, and Visit the Esquimaux in That Unknown Region</p> +<p class="pgt">Author: Benjamin Kohlmeister and George Kmoch</p> +<p class="pgt">Release Date: March 22, 2005 [eBook #15436]</p> +<p class="pgt">Language: English</p> +<p class="pgt">Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p class="pgt">***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE FROM OKKAK, ON THE COAST OF LABRADOR, TO UNGAVA BAY, WESTWARD OF CAPE CHUDLEIGH***</p> +<p> </p> +<h4>E-text prepared by Wallace McLean, Cluny,<br /> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> + from page images generously made available by<br /> + the Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions<br /> + (http://www.canadiana.org/)</h4> +<p> </p> +<table class="pg" border="0" cellpadding="10" style="background-color: #ccccff;"> + <tr> + <td valign="top"> + Note: + </td> + <td> + Images of the original pages are available through the Canadian + Institute for Historical Microreproductions. See<br /> + <a href="http://www.canadiana.org/ECO/ItemRecord/21002?id=fde620f29a76b4fe"> + http://www.canadiana.org/ECO/ItemRecord/21002?id=fde620f29a76b4fe</a><br /> + <br /> + Inconsistencies and irregularities in spelling in the original + text have been retained. The table of contents was created for + this eBook. + </td> + </tr> +</table> +<p> </p> +<hr noshade="noshade" size="4" width="100%" align="center" /> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<a name="page1"></a> +<h2>JOURNAL</h2> + +<h2>OF A <big> VOYAGE </big> FROM</h2> + +<h2>OKKAK,</h2> + +<h4>ON THE COAST OF <big>LABRADOR</big>,</h4> + +<h5>TO</h5> + +<h1>UNGAVA BAY,</h1> + +<h4>WESTWARD OF CAPE CHUDLEIGH;</h4> + +<h5>UNDERTAKEN</h5> + +<h4><i>To explore the Coast, and visit the</i> ESQUIMAUX <i>in +that unknown Region</i>.</h4> + +<h5>BY</h5> + +<h3>BENJAMIN KOHLMEISTER, AND GEORGE KMOCH,</h3> + +<h5>MISSIONARIES OF THE CHURCH OF THE</h5> + +<h3><i>UNITAS FRATRUM or</i> UNITED BRETHREN</h3> +<br /> +<p> </p> +<hr noshade="noshade" size="4" width="15%" align="center" /> +<p> </p> +<br /> +<h2>London:</h2> + +<p align="center"> +<b><small><small>Printed by W. M’Dowall, Pemberton Row, Gough Square, Fleet Street,</small></small></b> +</p> + +<h5>FOR THE BRETHREN’S SOCIETY FOR THE FURTHERANCE OF THE +GOSPEL AMONG THE HEATHEN. </h5> + +<div class="small"> +<p> +AND SOLD BY J. LE FEBVRE, 2, CHAPEL-PLACE, NEVILS-COURT, FETTER-LANE;<br /> +L. B. SEELEY, 169, FLEET-STREET; HAZARD AND BINNS, BATH;<br /> +AND T. BULGIN, AND T. LAMBE, BRISTOL. +</p> +</div> + +<h3>1814.</h3> +<br /> +<hr noshade="noshade" size="4" width="20%" align="center" /> +<br /> +<a name="page2"></a> +<h2>JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE,</h2> + +<h2><i>&c. &c.</i></h2> + +<hr noshade="noshade" size="4" width="20%" align="center" /> + +<h3>CONTENTS</h3> + +<table summary="Table of Contents"> +<tr> + <td class="toc" colspan="2"><a href="#intro">INTRODUCTION</a></td> + <td align="right">3</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="toc" colspan="2"><a href="#ch1">CHAPTER I.</a></td> + <td align="right">6</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="toc"> </td> + <td><i>Outfit. Opinions of the Esquimaux respecting the Voyage. + Description of the Company. Departure from Okkak. Arrival + at Nungorome.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="toc" colspan="2"><a href="#ch2">CHAPTER II.</a></td> + <td align="right">10</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td> </td> + <td><i>Departure from Nungorome Cove. Account of Solomon. + Drift-ice. Cape Mugford. Waterfalls from the Kaumayok + Mountains. Fruitless attempt to get out of the Ikkerasak, + or Straits.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="toc" colspan="2"><a href="#ch3">CHAPTER III.</a></td> + <td align="right">14</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td> </td> + <td><i>Quit the Ikkerasak. Account of the Kaumayok Mountains, and + of Kangertluksoak. Public Worship on Sunday. Saeglek and + its Inhabitants described. The Missionaries visit the + Esquimaux at Kikkertarsoak.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="toc" colspan="2"><a href="#ch4">CHAPTER IV.</a></td> + <td align="right">20</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td> </td> + <td><i>Departure from Saeglek. Fruitless attempt to reach + Nachvak. Retreat into Nullatartok Inlet. Slate Bay. + Detention on account of the Ice. Arrive at Nachvak.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="toc" colspan="2"><a href="#ch5">CHAPTER V.</a></td> + <td align="right">27</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td> </td> + <td><i>Reception at Nachvak. Description of the bay. The + Esquimaux manner of spearing salmon and trout. Christian + deportment of the Okkak and Hopedale Esquimaux. Jonas’s + address to the Heathen. Love of music general among these + Indians. Departure from Nachvak. Danger in doubling the + North Cape. Arrival at Sangmiyok bay.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="toc" colspan="2"><a href="#ch6">CHAPTER VI.</a></td> + <td align="right">33</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td> </td> + <td><i>Pass Cape Nennoktok. Visit the Esquimaux families at + Kummaktorvik and Amitok. Description of an Esquimaux + travelling bed. Mountains seen at Ungava. Netsek seal + described. Greenland houses. Danger of being shipwrecked + near Kakkeviak.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="toc" colspan="2"><a href="#ch7">CHAPTER VII.</a></td> + <td align="right">39</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td> </td> + <td><i>Arrival at Oppernavik. Account of Uttakiyok. His + perseverance in waiting for the arrival of the + Missionaries. Islands and bays between Kakkeviak and + Killinek. Danger in the ice at Ammitok. Want of fuel + supplied by robbing old graves.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="toc" colspan="2"><a href="#ch8">CHAPTER VIII.</a></td> + <td align="right">44</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td> </td> + <td><i>Departure from Oppernavik. Pass the Ikkerasak of Killinek. + Whirlpools. The coast takes a southerly direction. Meeting + with Esquimaux from the Ungava country, who had never seen + an European. Anchor at Omanek. High tides. Drift-wood. + Double Cape Uibvaksoak. Distant view of Akpatok.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="toc" colspan="2"><a href="#ch9">CHAPTER IX.</a></td> + <td align="right">50</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td> </td> + <td><i>Chain of black mountains. The Dragon’s dwelling. Changes + occasioned by rise and fall of the tides, and dangers + attending them. Uttakiyok’s superstitious customs. + Singular effect of the tide in the bay of Ittimnekoktok. + Arrive at Kangertlualuksoak bay and river. Its situation. + Transactions there.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="toc" colspan="2"><a href="#ch10">CHAPTER X.</a></td> + <td align="right">56</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td> </td> + <td><i>Further transactions in Kangertlualuksoak Bay. The + Esquimaux women frightened by reports of Indians. Ceremony + of taking possession of this new-explored country, as + belonging to the King of England, and of naming the river + George river. Leave the bay and proceed to Arvarvik. + Whales caught by the Esquimaux in the shallows. Storm at + Kernertut</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="toc" colspan="2"><a href="#ch11">CHAPTER XI.</a></td> + <td align="right">62</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td> </td> + <td><i>Doubts expressed by Jonathan and the other Esquimaux on + the expediency of continuing the voyage. Consultations. + Resolve to proceed. Thunder-storm at Pitsiolak. Account of + Indians. Esquimaux cookery and hunting feasts. Arrival in + the river Koksoak.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="toc" colspan="2"><a href="#ch12">CHAPTER XII.</a></td> + <td align="right">70</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td> </td> + <td><i>Sail up the river Koksoak. Transactions in that region. + Dangerous eddy. Meet Esquimaux. Address to them. Their joy + and eagerness to have Missionaries, resident among them. + Find a suitable situation for a settlement. Description of + the country.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="toc" colspan="2"><a href="#ch13">CHAPTER XIII.</a></td> + <td align="right">77</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td> </td> + <td><i>Return to Okkak.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="toc" colspan="2"><a href="#bottom">MAP</a></td> + <td align="right">End</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td> </td> + <td><i>The Northern Extremity of Labrador with Ungava Bay + Explored by the Missionaries of the Unitas Fratrum in 1811.</i></td> +</tr> + +</table> +<hr noshade="noshade" size="4" width="20%" align="center" /> +<br /> +<a name="intro"></a> +<a name="page3"></a> +<h3>INTRODUCTION.</h3> + +<div class="text"> +<p>F<small>OR</small> these many years past, a considerable number of +Esquimaux have been in the annual practice of visiting the three +missionary establishments of the United Brethren on the coast of +Labrador, OKKAK, NAIN, and HOPEDALE, chiefly with a view to barter, or +to see those of their friends and acquaintance, who had become obedient +to the gospel, and lived together in Christian fellowship, enjoying the +instruction of the Missionaries.</p> + +<p>These people came mostly from the north, and some of them from a +great distance. They reported, that the body of the Esquimaux nation +lived near and beyond Cape Chudleigh, which they call Killinek, and +having conceived much friendship for the Missionaries, never failed to +request, that some of them would come to their country, and even urged +the formation of a new settlement, considerably to the north of +Okkak.</p> + +<p>To these repeated and earnest applications the Missionaries were the +more disposed to listen, as it had been discovered, not many years after +the establishment of the Mission in 1771, that that part of the coast on +which, by the encouragement of the British government, the first +settlement was made, was very thinly inhabited, and that the aim of the +Mission, to convert the Esquimaux to Christianity, would be <a name="page4"></a> better +obtained, if access could be had to the main body of the Indians, from +which the roving inhabitants appeared to be mere stragglers. +Circumstances, however, prevented more extensive plans from being put in +execution; and the Missionaries, having gained the confidence and esteem +of the Esquimaux in their neighbourhood, remained stationary on that +coast, and, by degrees, formed three settlements, OKKAK, to the north, +and HOPEDALE, to the south of NAIN, their first place of residence.</p> + +<p>In consequence of the abovementioned invitation, it became a subject +of serious consideration, by what means a more correct idea of the +extent and dwelling-places of the Esquimaux nation might be obtained, +and a general wish was expressed, that one or more of the Missionaries +would undertake the perilous task of visiting such places as were +reported by the Esquimaux themselves to contain more inhabitants than +the southern coast, but remained unknown to European navigators.</p> + +<p>The Synodal Committee, appointed for the management of the Missions +of the United Brethren, having given their consent to the measure, and +agreed with Brother Kohlmeister, by occasion of a visit paid by him to +his relations and friends in Germany, as to the mode of putting it into +execution, he returned to Labrador in 1810, and prepared to undertake +the voyage early in the spring of 1811.</p> + +<p>For several years a correspondence had taken place between the +Missionaries in Labrador and the Brethren’s Society for the +Furtherance of the Gospel, established in London, relating to the manner +in which the voyage should be performed. Opinions were various on the +subject; but it was at length determined, that a steady intelligent +Christian Esquimaux, possessing a shallop, with two masts, and of +sufficient dimensions, should be appointed to accompany one or two +Missionaries, for a liberal recompence; and that the travellers should +spend the winter at Okkak, to be ready to <a name="page5"></a>proceed on the voyage, without +loss of time, as soon as the state of the ice would permit of it. +Brother Kohlmeister proposed, in this view, the Esquimaux Jonathan, of +Hopedale, and the brig employed to convey the annual supply of +necessaries to the three settlements, was ordered to proceed first to +Hopedale, partly with a view to this negociation. She arrived safe with +Brother Kohlmeister at this place, on the 22d July, 1810. On the same +day, he proposed to Jonathan the intended expedition, laid before him +the whole plan, with all its difficulties and advantages, and found him +immediately willing to undertake the voyage, and to forward its object +by every means in his power.</p> + +<p>This was no small sacrifice on the part of Jonathan. An Esquimaux is +naturally attached to the place of his birth; and, though he spends the +summer, and indeed great part of the year, necessarily, and from +inclination, in roving from one place to another in quest of food; yet +in winter he settles, if possible, upon his native spot, where he is +esteemed and beloved. This was eminently the case with Jonathan. He was +a man of superior understanding and skill, possessed of uncommon +presence of mind in difficulties and dangers, and at Hopedale considered +as the principal person, or chief of his nation. But he was now ready to +forsake all, and to go and reside at OKKAK, among strangers, having no +authority or pre-eminence, and to undertake a voyage of unknown length +and peril, from whence he could not be sure of a safe or speedy return, +before the ice might set in, and confine him upon an unknown shore, +during the whole of a second winter. There was, however, one +consideration which outweighed every other in his mind, and made him, +according to his own declaration, forget all difficulties and dangers. +He hoped that the proposed voyage to visit his countrymen in the north +would, in time, be a means of their becoming acquainted with the gospel +of Christ, and partakers of the same blessings which he now enjoyed. +This made him <a name="page6"></a>willing to accept of the call without any hesitation. Nor +did he ever, during the whole voyage, forsake that generous principle, +by which he was at first influenced, but his cheerful, firm, and +faithful conduct proved, under all circumstances, most honourable to the +character of a true convert to Christianity.</p> + +<p>Brother KOHLMEISTER being, after seventeen years residence in +Labrador, complete master of the Esquimaux language, and deservedly +beloved and respected both by Christians and heathens, and possessing an +invincible zeal to promote their temporal and spiritual welfare, was a +man eminently qualified to undertake the commission, and to conciliate +the affections of unknown heathen. He had also previously made himself +acquainted with the use of the quadrant, and with other branches of +science, useful on such an occasion.</p> + +<p>Brother KMOCH, his companion, joined to other essential +qualifications, great cheerfulness and intrepidity.</p> + +<p>All the parties having met at Okkak, in the autumn of 1810, the +winter was partly spent in preparations for the intended expedition, and +Jonathan’s boat put into the best possible state of repair.</p> +</div> +<br /> +<br /> +<hr noshade="noshade" size="4" width="20%" align="center" /> +<br /> +<a name="ch1"></a> +<h3>CHAPTER I.</h3> +<div class="synopsis"> +<p>Outfit. Opinions of the Esquimaux respecting the Voyage. + Description of the Company. Departure from Okkak. + Arrival at Nungorome.</p> +</div> +<div class="text"> +<p>J<small>UNE</small> 16, 1811.—T<small>HE </small>ice began to loosen in the bay of +OKKAK, and to drive out to sea. On the 17th, the bay was +quite cleared of it; but on the 18th, it returned, and seemed +to preclude all possibility of setting out so soon as we intended. +On the 19th, however, it left us entirely.</p> + +<a name="page7"></a><p>20th. We were employed in hauling the boat to the edge +of the water, and being floated by the tide, she came to +anchor at six, P.M. She had been purchased by Jonathan, +at Chateau-bay, and was about 45 feet long, twelve +broad, and five deep, with two masts. We had furnished +her with a complete deck, and divided her into three parts. +The centre was our own cabin, into which all our baggage +was stowed: the two other divisions were occupied by the +Esquimaux. A small boat, brought from Lewis, was taken +in tow.</p> + +<p>21st. We began to ship our provision and baggage: viz. +six cwt. of ship’s biscuit, sixteen bushels of pease, one cwt. +of salt pork and best beef, (of which but a small portion was +consumed, as we were generally well supplied with fresh +provisions, procured by shooting), a firkin of butter, half +cwt. of captain’s biscuit, one cwt. of flour, two small barrels +of gunpowder, one cwt. of large and small shot, half +cwt. of tobacco, two eighteen-gallon barrels of ale, a few +bottles of brandy, eighteen pounds of coffee, which was all +consumed, coffee and biscuits being our usual repast; a +case containing knives, wire, nails, &c. for barter, if necessary; +kettles and other utensils. Besides that every man +had his fowling-piece, we had four muskets in reserve. +After bringing all on board, we had just room enough to +sleep in our cabin.</p> + +<p>22d, was spent in conferring with our brethren, on various +subjects relating to the voyage.</p> + +<p>23d. All the Esquimaux met at the chapel, and in the +most affectionate manner, and with many tears, bid us and +our company farewell. They were the more affected with +grief on this occasion, as the greatest part of our own Esquimaux +thought the voyage impracticable, and expected +that we should all perish in doubling Cape Chudleigh, +(Killinek) on account of the violence of the currents, setting +round between the cape, and the many rocks and islands +<a name="page8"></a>which stretch from it towards the north. Reports had likewise +been circulated of the hostile disposition of the Esquimaux +in the Ungava bay; and it was boldly asserted, that +if we even got there alive, we should never return. An old +conjuror, (Angekok), <i>Atsugarsuk</i>, had been particularly +active in spreading these reports. We cannot deny but that +they occasioned some apprehension in our own minds, but +being fully determined to venture in the name of God, and +trusting in His protection, we were thankful that they failed +to produce the intended effect on Jonathan, our guide, and +on the other Esquimaux, who were to go with us, and who +all remained firm.</p> + +<p>When Jonathan was told that the Ungava Esquimaux +would kill him, he generally answered: “Well, we will try, +and shall know better when we get there:” and once, +conversing with us on the subject, expressed himself thus: +“When I hear people talking about the danger of being +killed, I think: Jesus went to death out of love to us, +what great matter would it be, if we were to be put to +death in His service, should that be His good pleasure +concerning us.”</p> + +<p>24th. Having commended ourselves in prayer to the grace +and protecting care of God our Saviour, and to the kind +remembrance of our dear fellow missionaries, we set sail at +two P.M.</p> + +<p>Our company consisted of four Esquimaux families: +1. <i>Jonathan</i>, and his wife <i>Sybilla</i>, both between fifty and +sixty years old. He was esteemed one of the most skilful +commanders on the whole coast of Labrador, and for many +years has shown himself both able and willing to serve the +missionaries in a variety of ways. The boat was his own +property, and we considered him as the captain of the +expedition. 2. <i>Jonas</i>, Jonathan’s son, and his wife <i>Agnes</i>, +about thirty years of age, both intelligent, clever Esquimaux; +they had their five children with them; <i>Sophia</i>, twelve years +<a name="page9"></a>old, <i>Susanna</i>, <i>Jonathan</i>, <i>Thamar</i>, and <i>Sybilla</i>, the youngest +but half a year old. 3. <i>Paul</i>, and his wife <i>Mary</i>, very +agreeable, sensible people, about twenty years of age. Paul +is Jonathan’s cousin, and a man of a very warm temper. +In activity and skill, he was next to Jonathan. 4. <i>David</i>, +and his mother <i>Rachel</i>, the first a hopeful young man of +about twenty, and the latter a good-natured old woman, +who had the care of our clothes and linen, and kept them +clean and in good order. Besides these four families, we +took with us a boy, <i>Okkiksuk</i>, an orphan, about sixteen, +whom Jonathan had adopted, and who promised to reward +the kindness of his guardian by his good behaviour. He +was always ready to render us every service in his power.</p> + +<p>We were attended on the voyage by a skin-boat (or woman’s +boat) in which were <i>Thukkekina</i> and his wife, and +their adopted child <i>Mammak</i>, a boy twelve years old. Their +age is about forty. The skin-boat was intended as a refuge, +in case of any accident happening to our own boat, and was +useful in landing, as we never brought the large boat close +in shore. The first four families belong to Hopedale, Thukkekina +and his wife to Okkak. They considered it as a great +favour conferred on them to be permitted to accompany us. +<i>Jonas</i> and his family occupied the after-part, and the rest +the fore-part of the boat. The wind was moderate, and due +west. We lost sight of our habitations in about half an +hour, behind the N.E. point of the island Okkak, called +Sungolik.</p> + +<p>At three, passed Cape Uivak, a cape on the continent, +forming a moderately high headland, and the nearest place +to Okkak, where Esquimaux spend the winter. Two or three +winter-houses were standing.</p> + +<p>The wind failing, we cast off the skin-boat, which rowed +merrily a-head. Before us, between the islands to the east +and the continent, we saw much drift-ice, and it required attention +to avoid the large shoals, the wind coming round +<a name="page10"></a>to the N.W. We cast anchor at NUNGOROME, a cove about +ten English miles from Okkak, where we found several of +our Esquimaux, who had here their summer-station. Several +had come from Naujasiorvik and other places, on purpose to +meet us, and once more to express their affection and best +wishes for our safe voyage and return. Late in the evening, +we met on a green spot, where Brother Kohlmeister delivered +a short discourse and prayer, after which we retired to sleep +on board the boat.</p> +</div> +<br /> +<br /> +<hr align="center" noshade="noshade" size="4" width="20%" /> +<a name="ch2"></a> +<h3>CHAPTER II.</h3> +<div class="synopsis"> +<p>Departure from Nungorome Cove. Account of Solomon. Drift-ice. Cape +Mugford. Waterfalls from the Kaumayok Mountains. Fruitless attempt to +get out of the Ikkerasak, or Straits.</p> +</div> + +<div class="text"> +<p>N<small>UNGOROME</small> is a cove on the south side of the Island Pacharvik. +Between this island the main land is a narrow strait, so shallow that no +whales can pass. The Esquimaux stretch their nets across, to catch +seals, seeking shelter in it when the wind sets in from the open sea. +They can only be taken in the night, and the greater part of those which +frequent this coast are of the <i>Kairolik</i> kind, a middle-sized +animal, and of the <i>Ugsuk</i>, the largest species of the seal tribe, +weighing sometimes from five to six cwt.</p> + +<p>The Esquimaux belonging to our congregation, who were at present +stationed here, in tents, were <i>Moses</i>, <i>Samuel</i>, +<i>Thomas</i>, <i>Isaac</i>, <i>Bammiuk</i>, and their families. +<i>Solomon</i>, who has left our communion, was also here. He had +formerly been a communicant member of Okkak congregation, but could not +resist the temptation of going to the north to feast with the heathen +Esquimaux, whenever they had <a name="page11"></a>caught a live, or found a dead whale. On +such occasions he was seduced to commit many irregularities and sins, +but always returned to us with a show of great contrition and +repentance. After many relapses, he was informed, that this would do no +longer, but that if he went again to these heathenish feasts, he would +be excluded. He is a sensible, well-disposed man, and perceived the +justice of the sentence; but his love of that species of amusement +overcame all his good resolutions. He not only went again, but took also +another wife; a step which, of course, excluded him from our fellowship. +Yet he is very desirous that his children may receive a Christian +education, and remain faithful to the precepts of the gospel.</p> + +<p>25th. Brother Kmoch rose at half past one in the morning, and +suffering the rest to sleep on, got breakfast ready; he then fired his +piece, by which Brother Kohlmeister and all the Esquimaux, young and +old, were suddenly roused from their slumbers. Not one, however, +regretted the unexpected interruption to their pleasant dreams, on +beholding the sea quite free from ice, with a fine morning and fair +wind; but after yawning, stretching, and shaking themselves as usual, +the Esquimaux with great good humour got ready, and we set sail at half +past three. Passed Pacharvik Island at four. Bammiuk and Solomon +accompanied us as far as the North Ikkerasak (the Esquimaux name for a +strait) between Cape Mugford Island, in 58° N. latitude, and the +mountains of Kaumayok. Their being in company retarded our progress, but +in the sequel proved no disadvantage.</p> + +<p>About nine, we entered the straits, and perceiving at a distance much +drift-ice a-head, cast anchor, and Brother Kmoch and Jonas landed on +Cape Mugford Island. An Esquimaux, called <i>Niakungetok</i>, +accompanied them to the top of an eminence, from whence the outer +opening of the Ikkerasak was seen. They perceived the ice driving into +it from the sea in such quantities as to threaten to close it up. Cape +Mugford is an high island, extending far into the <a name="page12"></a>ocean, and the +northern land-mark in steering for Okkak, <i>Kiglapeit</i> promontory +bearing south, and the Saddle-island appearing right before the entrance +of the bay. On their return to the boat, the wind veered to the north, +and we steered for a dwelling-place of the Esquimaux, about twenty miles +from Okkak, called <i>Ukkuararsuk</i>. To our great joy the ice began +now to drive out again to sea, and we resolved to go with it. A gentle +S.W. wind brought us to the place, where we had before anchored, but we +were now beset with large fields of ice, among which we tacked, till we +had nearly cleared the straits, when the great quantity of surrounding +ice, pressing upon us, prevented our making further attempts, and we, +were compelled to work our way back with oars and boat-hooks.</p> + +<p>On Cape Mugford island we now discovered more Esquimaux, who by signs +directed our course towards a convenient harbour, near their dwellings, +which we reached in safety.</p> + +<p>The Esquimaux pitched their tents on shore, but we slept on +board.</p> + +<p>The situation of this place is remarkably beautiful. The strait is +about an English mile broad, and four or five in length. Both shores are +lined with precipitous rocks, which in many places rise to a tremendous +height, particularly on the Kaumayok side, from whence several +waterfalls rush into the sea, with a roar, which quite fills the air. +The singular appearance of these cataracts is greatly increased when +illuminated by the rising sun, the spray, exhibiting the most beautiful +prismatic colours. Below them huge masses of ice are formed, which seem +to lean against the sides of the rocks, and to be continually increasing +during the winter, but when melted by the power of a summer’s sun, +and disengaged by their weight, are carried off by the tides, and help +to form floating ice-mountains. The coast lies S.W. by N.E.</p> + +<a name="page13"></a><p>26th. Being detained here by the state of the ice, and the weather +fine and warm, Brother Kmoch and Ogiksuk rowed across the straits to the +nearest great cataract, and were able, notwithstanding the steepness of +the ascent, to get pretty close to it. It falls fifty or sixty feet +perpendicular, and the noise is terrible. The spray ascending from it, +like the steam of a huge cauldron, wetted the travellers completely. +They amused themselves some time by rolling large stones into the fall, +which by its force were carried along towards the sea, down the sloping +torrent below. Our people meanwhile caught three seals, and made a +hearty meal, of which we also partook, hunger, on this occasion, +overcoming our dislike to seal’s flesh. A sallad of scurvy-grass +was made for supper.</p> + +<p>27th. We left this harbour about four A.M. with a favourable wind at +West, but as it soon died away, we took to our oars, and reached the +north point of Kaumayok, at the northern extremity of the strait. By an +observation taken by Brother Kohlmeister, this point is situated in +57° 59' N. latitude. Though calm, there was a great swell from +the sea, and the rolling of the boat affected our brave captain not a +little, to the diversion of the other Esquimaux. About two P.M. the wind +shifted to the N.W. By tacking we got to Kupperlik, about the middle of +Kaumayok, but having the skin-boat in tow, could not weather the point, +and were at length obliged to return to our former anchorage in the +strait.</p> + +<p>28th. The wind being North we could not proceed. We therefore +ascended the mountain of Cape Mugford. It is a barren rock, though here +and there a solitary plant or a tuft of moss clings to its steep sides, +and is difficult of access. The numerous waterfalls on the Kaumayok, +which still rose above us, were full in view, and we now discovered +several small lakes which supply them. Some of them fall from a great +height perpendicularly into the sea.</p> + +<a name="page14"></a><p>We could here discern the island of Okkak, to the S.W. to the East, +the boundless ocean, and to the N.E. three high, barren, and steep +islands, called Nennoktuts by the Esquimaux, (White mountains.)</p> +</div> + +<br /> +<br /> +<hr noshade="noshade" size="4" width="20%" align="center" /> +<br /> +<a name="ch3"></a> +<h3>CHAPTER III.</h3> +<div class="synopsis"> +<p>Quit the Ikkerasak. Account of the Kaumayok Mountains, +and of Kangertluksoak. Public Worship on Sunday. +Saeglek and its Inhabitants described. The Missionaries +visit the Esquimaux at Kikkertarsoak.</p> +</div> +<div class="text"> +<p>J<small>UNE</small> 29th.—W<small>E</small> rose soon after two o’clock, and rowed out of the +Ikkerasak, with a fair wind. The sea was perfectly calm and smooth. +Brother Kmoch rowed in the small boat along the foot of the mountains of +Kaumayok, sometimes going on shore, while the large boat was making but +little way, keeping out at some distance, to avoid the rocks. The +outline of this chain of mountains exhibits the most fanciful figures. +At various points, the rocks descend abruptly into the sea, presenting +horrid precipices. The strand is covered with a black sand. At the +height of about fifty feet from the sea, the rocks have veins of red, +yellow, and green stone, running horizontally and parallel; and +sometimes in an undulated form. Above these, they present the appearance +of a magnificent colonade, or rather of buttresses, supporting a gothic +building, varying in height and thickness, and here and there +intersected by wide and deep chasms and glens, running far inland +between the mountains. Loose stones above, have in some places the +appearance of statues, and the superior region exhibits all kind of +grotesque shapes. It is by far the most singular and picturesque chain +of mountains on this coast. To the highest part of it we gave the name +<a name="page15"></a>of St. Pauls, as it is not unlike that cathedral when viewed at a +distance, with its dome and two towers.</p> + +<p>Before we left the Kaumayok, Brother Kohlmeister landed, and found +the beach covered with blocks of stone, in colour white and grey, like +statuary marble, but very hard. We now steered for +<i>Kangertluksoak</i>, a winter-station of the Esquimaux, where several +of our people had pitched their tents.</p> + +<p>At noon, we were off an island, called <i>Eingosiarsuk</i>, (the +Little Cup), opposite the <i>Ittiplek</i>, (a flat piece of ground +joining two headlands) over which the northern Esquimaux pass in sledges +to Okkak, round Kaumayok. Farther towards the N.W. lies +<i>Tuppertalik</i>, a high ridge of mountains, which, from its +appearance, we called the Table mountain, having nearly the shape of the +mountain so called at the Cape of Good Hope.</p> + +<p>To the north lies <i>Nellekartok,</i> the outermost island on leaving +the Ikkerasak, and the first of the <i>Kangertluksoak</i> islands. +Behind <i>Tuppertalik</i>, a bay opens called <i>Nappartok</i> (a wood), +a winter-habitation, with a little wood higher up the country, about +eight or ten hours drive from Okkak. A good harbour for large vessels is +said to be here, called <i>Umiakovitannak,</i> (Broad boat-harbour). +Before the entrance to <i>Nappartok</i>, lies an island, +<i>Naujartsit</i> (the Little Sea-gull island). Seven or eight miles, +north of Nappertok, a long flat point runs out, terminated by a small +island. On approaching towards Kangertluksoak, a long island runs +parallel with the coast called <i>Illuektulik</i>, (a burial-place), +between which and the main land is a strait, affording good shelter for +boats. Into this Jonathan intended to run, but the wind being +favourable, we kept on our course, and passed two islands, +<i>Kingmiktok</i>, (Dog island), and farther north, <i>Kikkertarsoak</i> +a great island which defends the entrance into the harbour of +<i>Kangertluksoak,</i> from the sea. At ten P.M. we came to an anchor in +the harbour, and were <a name="page16"></a>received by our Esquimaux, of whom several +families were stationed here, as well as by the other inhabitants, with +demonstrations of great joy. Both the heathen who kept on the right side +of the great bay, and our own Christian Esquimaux, on the left, fired +numberless shots to welcome us. Several boats were here from +<i>Kittinek</i> and <i>Nachvak</i> bound to Okkak.</p> + +<p><i>Kangertluksoak</i> lies about sixty miles north of Okkak, is an +agreeable place, and has a good strand, and safe anchorage.</p> + +<p>30th. Being Sunday, the Missionaries went on shore, and visited all +the Christian families, by whom they were received with the most lively +expressions of affection and gratitude. Many strangers from the opposite +coast had joined them, and they all seated themselves in a large circle +on the grass.</p> + +<p><i>Nikupsuk’s</i> wife, Louisa, who had long ago forsaken the +believers, was here, and said, with much apparent contrition, that she +was unworthy to be numbered with them. She then seated herself at a +little distance from the rest.</p> + +<p>The number of the congregation, including our boat’s company, +amounted to about fifty. Brother Kohlmeister first addressed them, by +greeting them from their brethren at Okkak, and expressing our joy at +finding them well in health, and our hopes, that they were all walking +worthy of their Christian profession, as a good example to their heathen +neighbours. Then the Litany was read, and a spirit of true devotion +pervaded the whole assembly.</p> + +<p>Our very hearts rejoiced in this place, which had but lately been a +den of murderers, dedicated, as it were, by the angekoks, or sorcerers, +to the service of the devil, to hear the cheerful voices of converted +heathen, most melodiously sounding forth the praises of God, and giving +glory to the name of Jesus their Redeemer. Peace, and cheerful +countenances dwelt in the tents of the believing Esquimaux.</p> + +<a name="page17"></a><p>Our people had caught a large white-fish, and pressed us much to be +their guests, which we should have accepted of with pleasure, but we +thought it prudent to avail ourselves of the favourable wind and +weather, to proceed. Instead, therefore, of dining with them, we +presented to each tent a quart of pease, which is considered by the +Esquimaux as a great luxury, and was received with unbounded +thankfulness.</p> + +<p>About noon we set sail, with a brisk wind at S.E. for <i>Saeglek</i>. +The coast presents here, moderately high, barren mountains, without bays +or islands. The wind becoming more violent, the rope, by which we kept +the skin-boat in tow, suddenly snapt, and set her adrift. She was +frequently hid from our view by the height of the waves, but we were in +no apprehension about her, as these kind of boats are much safer in a +high sea, than a European one.</p> + +<p>At seven P.M. we arrived at <i>Saeglek</i>, and were saluted by the +firing of muskets and bonfires on the hills. The Esquimaux have their +dwellings on a small flat island, between two of larger size, but the +strand is bad, and full of sharp shingles. There are about five or six +winter-houses at Saeglek, containing each about two or three +families.</p> + +<p>July 1st. Early, two Esquimaux men, <i>Joas</i> and <i>Uiverunna,</i> +came in their kayaks to pay us a visit. They, with their families, +inhabited some tents we had seen yesterday. Brother Kohlmeister spoke +seriously to them on the necessity of conversion, especially to Joas, +who had Christian parents, and as a child, was baptized at Okkak. He +reminded him of his having been devoted to Jesus from his birth; that he +therefore ought not to belong to the unbelievers, but to Him who had +created and redeemed him; and that the greatest of all the sins he now +committed, was his persisting in his determination not to return. He +seemed to listen with some humility to the loving and earnest reproof +and exhortations of the Missionary, but at last excused himself by +<a name="page18"></a>laying the blame upon his mother, who kept him back, adding, that he +still intended to be converted.</p> + +<p>Our people had meanwhile made a fire, and put the pot on to boil +pease; but the wind changing, Jonathan determined immediately to +proceed. The pease had just begun to swell, and as the two Esquimaux had +presented us with some fresh meat, they had been asked to partake of our +meal; but finding themselves thus disappointed, they fell to, and having +greedily devoured a quantity of the half-boiled pease, and filled their +gloves with the rest, they took leave, and set sail about 11, A.M.</p> + +<p>Hearing from some Esquimaux who made towards us in their kayaks, that +the Saeglek people were all on the north side of the island of +Kikkertarsoak, we proceeded thither, and having doubled the point, saw +seven tents full of people. Two of them contained families from +Killinek. But the violence of the wind was such, that we could not stay +in this unsheltered place with safety. We therefore worked our way, with +the help of the Esquimaux, round another point, into a roadstead, rather +more sheltered than the former, though open to the sea. A little tobacco +is the reward expected and given for such assistance.</p> + +<p>The beach is composed of numberless black pebbles, polished by the +sea, and each about the size of an hen’s egg.</p> + +<p>Brother Kohlmeister immediately landed, and visited the Esquimaux in +their tents. Many heathen were at this place, to whom he preached the +gospel, and invited them to believe in Jesus, as the Saviour of men, who +would deliver them from the love, power, and curse of sin, having shed +His blood, and died on the cross, to redeem their souls. He was heard +with great attention. A venerable old man, with hair as white as wool, +particularly attracted our notice. He called Brother Kohlmeister by +name, took hold of both his hands, and begged him to sit down by him. +Brother Kohlmeister inquired, whether he knew him. The old man <a name="page19"></a>replied: +“Thou art Benjamin, often have I heard thy name at Okkak. I +therefore rejoice to see thee.” He seemed quite at a loss, what +way to express his affection; and at length delivered a strap of +seals’-leather to Mr. Kohlmeister, with these words: “I am +poor, and have nothing else to give thee, yet I wish to give thee some +token of my love.” Brother Kohlmeister accepted of his present, +and inwardly cried to the Lord, to show mercy to this poor ignorant +heathen. “You are old,” said he, “and have not much +more time to live in this world, will you not turn to that Jesus, who +has died for your sins also? It is not His desire that you should +perish, and be lost in everlasting darkness, but that you should live +with Him in the place of light and immortal bliss.” The old man +replied: “What shall I do? thy words are very pleasant, and I +would fain hear much more of Jesus. I do not wish to be lost in the +place of darkness.” Brother Kohlmeister answered, that if he +sincerely wished to be saved, and was troubled on account of his sinful +life he should believe in, and call on the name of Jesus, who would +certainly hear and reveal Himself unto him. Many people were present in +the tent, who behaved with great decency, and whom Brother Kohlmeister +earnestly addressed on the necessity of conversion. He wished to prolong +the conversation especially with the old man, who promised, that he +would never forget the words spoken to him, but it was growing late, and +we returned to our cabin. The poor old man having sore legs, some +medicine was left for him.</p> + +<p>The passage from Kangertluksoak to Saeglek is about twenty English +miles. Saeglek is a considerable promontory, open to the south.</p> +</div> + +<br /> +<br /> +<hr noshade="noshade" size="4" width="20%" align="center" /> +<br /> +<a name="ch4"></a> +<a name="page20"></a> +<h3>CHAPTER IV.</h3> + +<div class="synopsis"> + +<p>Departure from Saeglek. Fruitless attempt to reach Nachvak. +Retreat into Nullatartok Inlet. Slate Bay. Detention +on account of the Ice. Arrive at Nachvak.</p> +</div> + +<div class="text"> +<p>J<small>ULY</small> 2d.—A<small>T</small> one A.M. we set sail, steering for <i>Nachvak</i>, a +distance of about thirty miles. Here a chain of mountains +runs north and south, nearly parallel with the coast. The +coast itself is of moderate height, but very steep, and not +being defended by any island, the approach to it as a lee-shore, +is very dangerous. It runs generally in a pretty strait +line about forty miles, when a wide bay opens, in which lies, +towards the north, an island called <i>Karngalersiorvik</i>, where +there is said to be a good harbour for boats. The rocks, of +which the mountains are composed, are of a white grey +colour, streaked almost perpendicularly with veins of black +stone, about two feet broad. The intermediate strata may +be about eight times as broad. We had hoped to reach +Nachvak in the morning, by continuing our course through +the following night, though the wind was weak and variable, +but in the evening we got into drift-ice: yet as the shoals +were not close together, we worked our way through them; +and stood on with the little wind we had at S.E.</p> + +<p>3d. At dawn of day, and being still four miles distant from +Nachvak, we perceived both in the open sea, and all along the +shore, that our passage was completely occupied with floating +ice, which drove towards us, and forced us back. We then +endeavoured to find shelter in a bay bounded by high mountains, +but found none, the wind driving the ice after us into +it, and soon filling it. Jonathan frequently cried out with a +plaintive voice: “Alas, alas, we shall soon be without a +boat!” We now hastened to the opposite shore to find some +<a name="page21"></a>cove or inlet, but getting more and more entangled among +the ice, were at last obliged, some to land, and haul the +boat with ropes round the points, and others with boat-hooks +and spars, to keep her off the rocks. Two or three +times she stuck fast on sunken rocks, but by God’s mercy +always got off again without damage. At length we discovered +three narrow inlets, the middlemost forming a bay, +being the estuary of a river, which runs W.S.W. about +eight or ten miles up the country, and is called Nullatartok. +Into this we pushed, when shortly after our entrance, the ice +entirely filled up the passage, and we were compelled to +retreat to the uppermost part, choosing the shallowest possible +spot to anchor in. The bay itself is about two miles +in breadth, and only in the middle deep enough to admit +the larger fields of drift ice to float into it. The strand is +broad, and slopes off gently. It is covered with large tables +of slate. The mountains on each side are high, and seem to +consist of ferruginous slate, the lamina or plates of which +are of such immense size, that they might serve for entire +walls. Towards the sea, there exudes from these rocks, a +yellowish white substance, which has a strong sulphureous +smell. It was so powerful, that if a drop fell on a piece of +tinned iron, it removed the tin in a few minutes.</p> + +<p>The vallies in the neighbourhood were green and full of +flowers.</p> + +<p>Not far from the spot where we had pitched our tents, +(which rested upon a carpet of <i>potentilla aurea</i>, in full bloom, +bringing to our minds the European meadows, full of butter-cups), +the river, which is of considerable breadth, falls into +the bay. It abounds with fine salmon-trout. Farther to the +westward, two other rivers flow into it, one of which is much +broader than the other, and has a large cataract at some distance +from its mouth. The upper parts of the mountains are +covered partly with moss, and partly with low brush-wood, +birch, and alder, and many berry-bearing shrubs and plants, +<a name="page22"></a>but no high trees. We found here both arnica and colts-foot +in great plenty. Brother Kohlmeister gathered and dried a +quantity of each, as they are used in medical cases, and the +former cannot be procured from England.</p> + +<p>The slate is extremely shivery, and is found in slabs, either +lying or standing upright from four to eight feet square, +most easily splitting into thin plates. Ascending the mountain, +they are soon dislodged, by the tread of a man’s foot, +and glide down towards the beach with a rattling, tinkling +noise. At low water, we noticed a bed of stone resembling +cast iron, of a reddish hue, and polished by the friction of +the water. After supping on salmon-trout, caught in the +first-mentioned river, we retired to rest; but had some fears +even here for the safety of our boat, the ice pushing in towards +us, and our people being employed day and night in +warding off the large shoals with their boat-hooks.</p> + +<p>4th. The weather being fair, Brother Kmoch ascended to +the top of the highest part of the mountain near us, from +whence he could see nothing but drift-ice, powerfully in motion +towards the bay. Four of our Esquimaux went up the +country to hunt reindeer; saw eight head and two fawns; +but got none.</p> + +<p>Perceiving that our abode in this place might be of some +duration, we for the first time pitched our tents on shore. +Our morning and evening devotion was attended by the whole +party; and on Sundays we read the Litany, and conducted +the service in the usual way, which proved to us and our +Esquimaux of great comfort and encouragement in all difficulties. +We were detained here, by the ice, from the 3d to +the 15th, and our faith and patience were frequently put +to the trial. Meanwhile we found much pleasure in walking +up the declivities of the hills, and into the fine green and +flowery vallies around us.</p> + +<p>5th. We went up the western extremity of the bay, but +found nothing worth notice. Here the rocks appeared to be +of a species of freestone.</p> + +<a name="page23"></a><p>6th. In the evening we met in Jonathan’s tent. Brother +Kohlmeister addressed the company, and reminded them, +that to-day the holy communion would be celebrated in our +congregations, which we could not do in this place, under +present circumstances. Then kneeling down, he offered up +a fervent prayer, entreating the Lord not to forget us in this +wilderness, but to give us to feel His all-reviving presence, +and to feed our hungry and thirsty souls, out of the fulness +of His grace. A comfortable sense of His love and peace filled +all our hearts on this occasion.</p> + +<p>In the evening, Paul began to read out of the Harmony +of the four Evangelists, which we shall continue as often as +circumstances will admit of it. Jonathan and Jonas generally +conduct the daily morning and evening worship.</p> + +<p>7th. We were so hard pressed by the ice driving towards +us, that we were obliged in part to unload the boat, to be +able to bring it into a safer situation in shallow water; and +took our turns, three relieving three, to watch and guard off +the larger shoals with boat-hooks, by day and night. We +were glad to have reached a place, sheltered on all sides from +the wind.</p> + +<p>8th. Our people went out to look for reindeer, and no +prospect of our proceeding to sea appearing, they resolved +to stay out all night.</p> + +<p>9th. Jonas returned and reported, that they had seen +reindeer, but were not able to shoot any. Paul and Thukkekina +went to-day to the western mountains, and staid over +night.</p> + +<p>10th. Brother Kmoch went to the westward to look for +birds. He saw a large flight of sea-fowl, but they were extremely +shy, and would not permit him to get near them. +From the hills around us, we perceived that the entrance into +the bay was completely blocked up with ice; and towards the +sea, nothing but one continued field of ice appeared. We +sighed and prayed to the Lord to help us in this time of need. +<a name="page24"></a>Jonas went out in his kayak, and shot an <i>ugsuk</i>, not far from +our tent. Towards evening, we saw a fire made by our +reindeer-hunters, at the western extremity of the bay, and +they fired their pieces to give us notice, that they had got some +game, and that we should fetch it with the small boat.</p> + +<p>Okkiksuk therefore went, and found them completely overcome +with fatigue, having dragged their game, across the +mountains for a considerable distance. The Esquimaux are +indeed able to carry burdens up and down hill, under which +most Europeans would sink, but when they kill a deer far +inland, it is hard-earned food, by the trouble of carrying it +home. Paul had shot two reindeer, of which we received a +portion. Brother Kohlmeister had been on the other side +of the bay, and returned with a large parcel of plants and +flowers, the examination of which afforded him much amusement.</p> + +<p>The Esquimaux now boiled a large kettle full of seal’s +flesh, of which we were invited to partake. This we did, +and thought it a very palatable mess, particularly as we had +tasted no fresh meat since we had left the North Ikkerasak. +The prejudice of the Europeans against seal’s flesh, consists +mostly in imagination. The dirty kettle in which the Esquimaux +boil it, is indeed not calculated to excite an appetite, +but the meat, when eaten fresh, tastes much like beef; +when cold, it acquires an oily taste; nor durst a person, not +accustomed to it from his childhood, make a practice of eating +it, as it is of a very heating nature, and would soon bring +on serious disorders. It generally prevents sleep, if eaten at +supper.</p> + +<p>12th. The wind became West, and cleared the bay of the +ice. Brother Kmoch and Jonathan went to the opposite shore +and found winter-houses, one of which had been inhabited +last winter; two others were in ruins. They climbed the +highest eminence towards Nachvak, but saw nothing but +drift-ice, covering the sea, with but few spots of open water, +to the north.</p> + +<a name="page25"></a><p>13th. It blew hard from the West. David and Okkiksuk +crossed the bay to explore the state of the ice from the hills. +In the evening they returned with intelligence, that the sea +was cleared of ice to the northward. David had caught a +netsek, (a small species of seal), and we had taken a good +draught of trout in the net before our tent.</p> + +<p>14th. Jonathan roused us at four in the morning, the +wind being in our favour, and we immediately made preparations +to depart. After breakfast, as we were praying the +Litany, a sudden storm arose. We were assembled in Jonathan’s +tent, and the stones and pegs, with which it had +been fastened down to the ground, being already removed, +the tent-skins were soon blown about our heads by the violence +of the wind, and we were now obliged patiently to +wait till the storm abated. In the midst of our deliberations, +accompanied with expressions of our disappointment, +Thukkekina gravely observed, that we might very likely get +away this summer, and need not be dismayed. Towards +evening, it fell calm, and the musquitoes teazed us unmercifully. +We supped on fresh salmon, filled our tents +with smoke, to keep off our winged tormentors, shut ourselves +in, and forgot our grievances and Thukkekina’s +consolations in sound sleep.</p> + +<p>15th. In the morning at three o’clock, we took a final +leave of Nullatartok bay, and got under way with a favourable, +though rather boisterous wind at S.W. having been +detained here for twelve days by the ice. After about an +hour’s sail, we were near the entrance of the inlet, when a +sudden gust from the mountains carried away our after-top-mast, +with sail and tackle. It fell with great noise on the +deck, and into the sea. By God’s mercy no one was hurt, +and we were more particularly thankful, that of the five +children on board, none were just then on deck.</p> + +<p>It once happened, that the main-yard fell down, and but +narrowly missed striking two children, who with a third +<a name="page26"></a>were sitting and playing together. They must inevitably +have lost their lives, had it fallen upon them. We praised +God for their preservation during the whole voyage. By the +above-mentioned disaster, we were obliged to run into a +small cove, where we repaired the mast with all speed, and +proceeded with a gentle wind towards Nachvak, A calm +ensued, and as there is no anchorage between Nullatartok +and Nachvak, we rowed all night, and felt the advantage of +the great length of days, at this season of the year.</p> + +<p>16th. The view we had of the magnificent mountains of +Nachvak, especially about sun-rise, afforded us and our Esquimaux +great gratification. Their south-east extremity +much resembles Saddle island near Okkak, being high, +steep, and of singular shape. These mountains in general +are not unlike those of Kaumayok for picturesque outline. +In one place, tremendous precipices form a vast amphitheatre, +surmounted by a ledge of green sod, which +seemed to be the resort of an immense number of sea-gulls +and other fowls, never interrupted by the intrusion of man. +They flew with loud screams backwards and forwards over +our heads, as if to warn off such unwelcome visitors. In +another place, a narrow chasm opens into the mountain, +widening into a lagoon, the surrounding rocks resembling +the ruins of a large Gothic building, with the green ocean +for its pavement, and the sky for its dome. The weather +being fine, and the sun cheering us with his bright rays, after +a cold and sleepless night, we seemed to acquire new vigour, +by the contemplation of the grand features of nature +around us. We now perceived some Esquimaux with a woman’s +boat, in a small bay, preparing to steer for Nachvak. +They fired their pieces, and called to us to join them, as they +had discovered a stranded whale. Going on shore to survey +the remains of this huge animal, we found it by no means a +pleasant sight. It lay upon the rocks, occupying a space +about thirty feet in diameter, but was much shattered, and +<a name="page27"></a>in a decaying state. Our people, however, cut off a quantity +of blubber from its lips. The greater part of the blubber of +this fish was lost, as the Esquimaux had no means of conveying +it to Okkak.</p> + +<p>The Esquimaux stationed here showed great willingness +to assist us; and as our party was much fatigued with rowing +all night, they towed us into Nachvak, where we arrived +about 2 P.M. Old Kayaluk and a young man, Parnguna, +and his wife, were here. The latter called on Brother Kohlmeister, +and thanked him for having saved her life. He had +forgotten that he had once given her medicine at Okkak in a +dangerous illness, but her gratitude was still unbounded.</p> +</div> + +<br /> +<br /> +<hr noshade="noshade" size="4" width="20%" align="center" /> +<br /> +<a name="ch5"></a> +<h3>CHAPTER V.</h3> + +<div class="synopsis"> + +<p>Reception at Nachvak. Description of the bay. The Esquimaux +manner of spearing salmon and trout. Christian deportment +of the Okkak and Hopedale Esquimaux. Jonas’s +address to the Heathen. Love of music general among these +Indians. Departure from Nachvak. Danger in doubling +the North Cape. Arrival at Sangmiyok bay.</p> +</div> +<div class="text"> +<p>J<small>ULY</small> 16th.—A<small>FTER</small> two or three hours sleep in our cabin, +we went on shore. The Esquimaux, who had here a temporary +station, about fifty in number, received us with +every mark of attention. Loud shouts of joy resounded from +all quarters, and muskets were fired in every direction. They +could scarcely wait with patience for our landing, and when +we pitched our tent, were all eager to assist; thus we were +soon at home among them. Seven tents were standing on +the strand, and we found the people here differing much in +their manners from the people at Saeglek. Their behaviour +was modest and rather bashful, nor were we assailed by <a name="page28"></a>beggars +and importunate intruders, as at the latter place, where +beggary seemed quite the fashion, and proved very troublesome +to us. But we had no instance of stealing. Thieves +are considered by the Esquimaux in general with abhorrence, +and with a thief no one is willing to trade. We have discovered, +however, that that propensity is not altogether wanting +in the northern Esquimaux, who, now and then, if they +think that they can do it without detection, will make a little +free with their neighbour’s property. </p> + +<p>The Esquimaux not only gave us a most hearty welcome, +but attended our morning and evening prayers with great +silence and apparent devotion. Indeed, to our great surprise, +they behaved altogether with uncommon decorum and regularity +during our stay.</p> + +<p>17th. Being detained with drift-ice at the mouth of the +bay, we pitched our tent on shore. We examined the bay +more minutely. It extends to the West to a considerable +depth, and is not protected by any islands, except a few +rocks, at some distance in the sea. The surrounding mountains +are very high, steep, and barren, and verdure is found +only in the vallies. Here the <i>arnica montana</i>, which the +Missionaries have found of great use among the Esquimaux, +grows in great abundance. Salmon-trout are caught in every +creek and inlet.</p> + +<p>Like the salmon, they remain in the rivers and fresh-water +lakes during the winter, and return to the sea in spring. +The Esquimaux about Okkak and Saeglek, catch them in +winter under the ice by spearing. For this purpose, they +make two holes in the ice, about eight inches in diameter, +and six feet asunder, in a direction from north to south. The +northern hole they screen from the sun, by a bank of snow +about four feet in height, raised in a semicircle round its +southern edge, and form another similar bank on the north-side +of the southern hole, sloped in such a manner as to reflect +the rays of the sun into it. The Esquimaux then lies +<a name="page29"></a>down, with his face close to the northern aperture, beneath +which the water is strongly illuminated by the sunbeams entering +at the southern. In his left hand he holds a red string, +with which he plays in the water, to allure the fish, and in +his right a spear, ready to strike them as they approach. In +this manner they soon take as many as they want.</p> + +<p>The salmon-trout on this coast are from twelve to eighteen +inches long, and in August and September so fat, that +the Esquimaux collect from them a sufficient quantity of oil +for their lamps. The immense abundance of these fish on +all parts of the coast, would almost at any time save the Esquimaux +from starving with hunger; but as seals furnish +them both with food and clothing, it is of most consequence +to them to attend to this branch of supply. At Hopedale and +Nain, however, salmon-trout are caught only in the summer.</p> + +<p>We were much pleased with the behaviour of our own Esquimaux, +during their stay at Nachvak. In every respect +they conducted themselves, in word and deed, as true Christian +people. Their conversation with their heathen countrymen, +was free and unreserved, and “to the use of edifying.” +Jonathan and Jonas in particular, gave us great +satisfaction.</p> + +<p>The people having assembled in Jonathan’s tent, those +who had no room in it, standing without and listening with +great order and stillness, Brother Kohlmeister addressed +them, explaining the aim of our voyage; that we were going, +out of love to their nation, to the northern Esquimaux, +and to those of Ungava bay, to make known to them the +love of God our Saviour; and, by the gospel, to point out to +them the way to obtain life everlasting. We knew that they +were heathen, who, being ignorant of the way to God, were +in bondage to the devil, and would be lost for ever, unless +God had mercy upon them and sent them his word, to lead +them to Jesus Christ their only Saviour, who shed His blood, +and died on the cross to redeem their souls.</p> + +<a name="page30"></a><p>They received the discourses and exhortations of the Missionary +with reverential attention, but those of their own +countrymen, with still greater eagerness, and we hope not +without benefit. Jonas once addressed them thus; “We +were but lately as ignorant as you are now: we were long +unable to understand the comfortable words of the gospel: +we had neither ears to hear, nor hearts to receive them, till +Jesus, by his power, opened our hearts and ears. Now +we know what Jesus has done for us, and how great the +happiness of those souls is, who come unto Him, love +Him as their Saviour, and know, that they shall not be +lost, when this life is past. Without this we live in constant +fear of death. You will enjoy the same happiness, +if you turn to and believe in Jesus. We are not surprised +that you do not yet understand us. We were once like +you, but now thank Jesus our Redeemer, with tears of +joy, that He has revealed Himself unto us,” Thus, with +cheerful countenances and great energy, did these Christian +Esquimaux praise and glorify the name of Christ our Saviour, +and declare, what he had done for their souls, exhorting +the heathen likewise to believe.</p> + +<p>The above address seemed to make a deep impression on +the minds of all present. One of their leaders, or captains, +exclaimed with great eagerness, in presence of them all: +“I am determined to be converted to Jesus.” His name +is <i>Onalik</i>. He afterwards called upon Brother Kohlmeister, +and inquired, whether it was the same, to which of the three +settlements he removed, as it was his firm determination to +become a true believer. Brother Kohlmeister answered: +“That it was indifferent where he lived, if he were only +converted and became a child of God, and an heir of life +eternal.” Another, named <i>Tullugaksoak</i>, made the same +declaration, and added: “That he would no longer live +among the heathen.”</p> + +<p>Though the very fickle disposition of the heathen <a name="page31"></a>Esquimaux, +might cause some doubts to arise in our minds, as to +their putting these good resolutions into practice, yet we +hope, that the seed of the word of God, sown in this place, +may not have altogether fallen upon barren ground.</p> + +<p>In the evening, our people met in Jonathan’s tent, and +sang hymns. Almost all the inhabitants were present. They +afterwards spent a long time in pleasant and edifying conversation. +It may here be observed, that the Esquimaux +delight in singing and music. As to national songs, they +have nothing deserving of that name; and the various collectors +of these precious morsels in our day, would find their +labour lost in endeavouring to harmonize the incantations +of their sorcerers and witches, which more resemble the +howlings of wolves and growlings of bears, than any thing +human. But though the hymn and psalm-tunes of the Brethren’s +Church are mostly of antient construction, and, +though rich in harmony, have no airy melodies to make +them easily understood by unmusical ears, yet the Esquimaux +soon learn to sing them correctly; and the voices of +the women are remarkably sweet and well-tuned. Brother +Kohlmeister having given one of the children a toy-flute, +Paul took it, and immediately picked out the proper stops +in playing several psalm-tunes upon it, as well as the imperfect +state of the instrument would admit. Brother Kmoch +having taken a violin with him, the same Esquimaux likewise +took it up, and it was not long before he found out the +manner of producing the different notes.</p> + +<p>18th. At 8 A.M. Brother Kohlmeister having delivered a +farewell-discourse to the Esquimaux, (during which they +were much affected), we took leave of these goodnatured people, +and set sail with a fair and strong West-wind, but met +with much drift-ice at the entrance of the bay. It made less +way than our boat, and the wind becoming more violent, we +found ourselves in an unpleasant situation. After tacking +all day, and a great part of the night, the ice preventing +<a name="page32"></a>our proceeding, and the wind, our returning to our former +station, we were obliged to make for the Eastern point of +the bay, where we at length succeeded in gaining a small +cove, and cast anchor.</p> + +<p>Our situation was singular; the rocks rose in a semicircle +around us, towering perpendicularly to an amazing height, +like an immense wall.</p> + +<p>After a few hours stay, two Nachvak Esquimaux joined +us, and prevailed on Jonathan to return to the tents, but we +had scarcely reached the centre of the bay, before the violence +of the wind drove us out to sea, and we were compelled +to push for the northern promontory, from which all the +ice had now retreated. Under the mountains we found +shelter from the wind, which had by this time risen to a +storm. It was late, and as it appeared dangerous to remain +here, we rowed towards the point, but there beheld, with +terror, the raging of the sea and dashing of the waves against +the rocks, the spray flying like clouds into the air, and returned +into smooth water, where, however, we were long in +finding a place to anchor in. The night was spent quietly +under shelter of the high rocks. They form the base of +mountains higher than the <i>Kiglapeyd</i>, rise perpendicularly, +in some places impending, with fragments, apparently loose, +hanging over their edge, and forming all kinds of grotesque +figures.</p> + +<p>19th. At sun-rise we still saw and heard the storm which +threatened us with destruction, if we ventured to double the +cape.</p> + +<p>At nine the wind abated, and we set sail, got safe round +the point, and glided, with a gentle wind, into a broad, +shallow bay, called Sangmiyok, full both of hidden and visible +rocks, in which we cast anchor about five P.M. While +Brother Kmoch superintended the concerns of the kitchen, +Brother Kohlmeister and Jonathan went on shore, and to +the highest mountain on the promontory. From the top of +<a name="page33"></a>this mountain they could plainly discern the four principal +headlands between Cape Mugford and Cape Chudleigh. The +former situated in latitude 58° N. the latter in 61°. Between +these are four promontories, in a line from S.E. to +N.W. The first is <i>Uivak</i>, at the entrance into Saeglek Bay, +outside of which a small island lies, in form of a pyramid or +sugar-loaf. Next follow the two forming Nachvak Bay, +another <i>Uivak</i> to the south of <i>Nennoktok</i>, upon which we +stood. The fourth is <i>Kakkeviak</i>, not far from Killinek, or +Cape Chudleigh, in form of a tent, called in the charts +<i>Blackhead</i>. <i>Nennoktok</i> is called <i>False Blackhead</i>.</p> + +</div> + +<br /> +<br /> +<hr noshade="noshade" size="4" width="20%" align="center" /> +<br /> +<a name="ch6"></a> +<h3>CHAPTER VI.</h3> +<div class="synopsis"> + +<p>Pass Cape Nennoktok. Visit the Esquimaux families at +Kummaktorvik and Amitok. Description of an Esquimaux +travelling bed. Mountains seen at Ungava. Netsek +seal described. Greenland houses. Danger of being +shipwrecked near Kakkeviak.</p> +</div> +<div class="text"> +<p>J<small>ULY</small> 20th.—W<small>E</small> proceeded with +little or no wind, and taking to our oars, doubled the great Cape of +Nennoktok. Here a strong swell from the sea met us, and tossed our boat +violently about, and, having no wind, it drove us nearer to the shore +than was perfectly safe. We remained about an hour in this unpleasant +situation, when a breeze sprung up, which carried us out to the open sea +among islands. It now began to rain very hard, and the wind rose. While +Brother Kmoch was assisting the people on deck, Brother Kohlmeister had +enough to do below, to keep peace among the furniture of our cabin, and +sometimes found himself defeated in his attempts, pots and pans, and +boxes, and every thing that was not a fixture, tumbling upon him. +Several of our people <a name="page34"></a>were in the skin-boat, and the fury of the wind +and sea would not permit them to come to our assistance. The weather +also became so thick and foggy between the islands, that we were unable +to see to any distance. Jonathan was therefore glad to have been +yesterday on shore, when from the mountain he discovered the situation +of the promontory, the coast, and the islands before us, and now +contrived to steer in the proper direction. We soon found ourselves in +smoother water, and among islands, where a vast number of seals and +birds made their appearance. At six in the evening we reached +<i>Kummaktorvik</i>, and came to an anchor.</p> + +<p>Having landed, Brother Kmoch shot a hare, close to the beach. These +creatures are white in winter, and grey in summer, and in winter so +numerous, that though, when roasted, they are excellent food, we were +almost tired of them last year at Okkak.</p> + +<p>The rain continuing during the whole of the night and forenoon of the +21st, we found it necessary by sufficient rest to strengthen ourselves +for future watchfulness.</p> + +<p>An Esquimaux travelling bed consists of a large bag of reindeer-skin, +with the hair turned inward, covered with seal-skin, the hair turned +outward. It is furnished with a broad flap to cover the mouth, and a +strap to fasten down the flap. This bag comprehends the whole apparatus +and furniture of an Esquimaux bed-room. Having undressed, the traveller +creeps into it, and a kind neighbour having shut him up close by +fastening the strap, he leaves him to sleep on till morning, when he +helps him out again. In summer the flap is dispensed with. The +invention, however, is of European origin, and a luxury introduced by +the Missionaries; for an Esquimaux lies down in his clothes, without +further preparation.</p> + +<p>In the morning we landed, and had the usual Sunday’s service +with our people on shore; after which Brother Kohlmeister visited the +Esquimaux in their tents, and had some <a name="page35"></a>religious conversation with them, +to which they seemed to pay attention. Afterwards Kuttaktok, John, +Nukkapiak, and Kajulik, with their wives, came to see us on board. They +are the winter inhabitants of this bay. John was baptized in infancy at +Okkak, but afterwards left the settlement, and not only associates with +the heathen Esquimaux, but has even been guilty of murder. All of them, +however, come occasionally to Okkak. They had two tents about four miles +from our landing place.</p> + +<p>22d. The contrary wind forbidding our departure, Brother Kohlmeister, +accompanied by Jonathan, Jonas, and Thukkekina, walked across the +country to the N.W. bay, to return their visit. When they saw them +coming at a distance, they fired their pieces, to direct them to the +tents, and came joyfully to meet the Missionary and his party. Nothing +could exceed the cordiality with which they received them. A kettle was +immediately put on the fire to cook salmon-trout, and all were invited +to partake, which was the more readily accepted, as the length of the +walk had created an appetite, the keenness of which overcame all +squeamishness. To do these good people justice, their kettle was rather +cleaner than usual, the dogs having licked it well, and the fish were +fresh and well dressed. To honour the Missionary, a box was placed for +him to sit upon, and the fish were served up to each upon a flat stone +instead of a plate. After dinner, Brother Kohlmeister, in acknowledgment +for their civility, gave to each of the women two needles, and a small +portion of tobacco to each man, with which they were highly +delighted.</p> + +<p>All of them being seated, a very lively and unreserved conversation +took place concerning the only way of salvation, through Jesus Christ, +and the necessity of conversion. With John and his mother Mary, Brother +Kohlmeister spoke very seriously, and represented to them the danger of +their state, as apostates from the faith; but they seem blinded <a name="page36"></a>by +Satan, and determined to persist in their heathenish life. The Esquimaux +now offered to convey the party across the bay in their skin-boat, which +was accepted. Almost all of them accompanied the boat, and met with a +very friendly reception from our boat’s company. In the evening, +after some hymns had been sung by our people, Jonas addressed them and +the heathen Esquimaux in a short, nervous discourse, on the blessedness +of being reconciled unto God.</p> + +<p>Kummaktorvik bay runs N.E. and S.W. and is defended by some islands +from the sea. It is about four or five miles long, and surrounded by +high mountains, with some pleasant plains at their foot, covered with +verdure. It’s distance from Nachvak is about twelve miles. This +chain of mountains, as will be hereafter mentioned, may be seen from +Kangertlualuksoak, in Ungava Bay, which is a collateral proof, that the +neck of land, terminated to the N. by Cape Chudleigh, is of no great +width. Both the Nain and Okkak Esquimaux frequently penetrate far enough +inland to find the rivers taking a westerly direction, consequently +towards the Ungava country. They even now and then have reached the +woods skirting the estuaries of George and South rivers.</p> + +<p>23d. We set sail at sun-rise, but the wind being too high to suffer +us to proceed with safety, we again anchored in a commodious harbour in +<i>Amitok</i> island. Our people were here busily employed in repairing +the damaged rigging and sails. Towards evening Jonas caught a seal, to +the great gratification of our party. It was dressed immediately, and we +joined them in their repast with a good appetite.</p> + +<p>The <i>Netsek</i> is the only species of seal which remains during +the winter under the ice. They form in it large caverns, in which they +bring forth their young, two at a time, in March. More than one cavern +belongs to one seal, that he may, if disturbed in the first, take +shelter in the second. No other kind of seal is caught in winter by the +Esquimaux.</p> + +<a name="page37"></a><p>24th. Brother Kmoch rose at two, and went on shore to examine the +island more minutely. The morning was beautiful, and the sun rose with +great splendour. <i>Amitok</i> lies N.W. from Kummaktorvik, is of an +oblong shape, and stretches out pretty far towards the sea. The hills +are of moderate height, the land is in many places flat, but in general +destitute of grass. On the other side are some ruins of Greenland +houses.</p> + +<p>The Esquimaux have a tradition, that the Greenlanders came originally +from Canada, and settled on the outermost islands of this coast, but +never penetrated into the country, before they were driven eastward to +Greenland. This report gains some credit, from the state in which the +abovementioned ruins are found. They consist in remains of walls and +graves, with a low stone enclosure round the tomb, covered with a slab +of the same material. They have been discovered on islands near Nain, +and though sparingly, all along the whole eastern coast, but we saw none +in Ungava bay. The rocks on Amitok contain large masses of a crumbly, +semi-transparent garnet, of a reddish hue. (From some specimens sent +out, it rather appears to be a rose red quartz, or beryllite).</p> + +<p>As it appeared as if we should be detained here, Brother Kmoch had +made a fire, and was leisurely cooking a savoury mess of birds for +breakfast, when Jonathan returned from the hills, with intelligence that +the wind was abating in violence, and he therefore would proceed. The +tent was struck, and all hurried on board: yet we had long to combat +both an unfavourable wind and a strong current, which compelled us to +double the East point of the island, and seek shelter among some small +islands, steering for <i>Niakungu</i> point. From hence we got the first +sight of <i>Tikkerarsuk</i>, (the Esquimaux name for a low point +stretching from the continent into the sea), of the island +<i>Aulatzevik</i>, and the high promontory of <i>Kakkeviak</i>. The +whole country to <a name="page38"></a>the west of <i>Niakungu</i> is called +<i>Serliarutsit</i>. It fell calm as we doubled the point, and we took +to our oars, and came to an anchor in an open bay, south of +Tikkerarsuk.</p> + +<p>25th. At 6 P.M. we got under weigh with a fine S.E. wind, and made +for the island of <i>Aulatzevik</i>, which is about the same size as an +island of the same name, near Kiglapeyd. The passage between the island +and the main is too shallow for an European boat like ours. The wind +rising we sailed towards Kakkeviak at a great rate. To the right lay a +chain of small islands called by the Esquimaux Pikkiulits, (the +habitation of young eider-ducks). Having nearly doubled <i>Kakkeviak</i> +cape, we perceived two tents on shore, which occasioned loud rejoicings +on board. They belonged to <i>Kumiganna</i> of <i>Saeglek</i>, with his +party, who being bound to Killinek, had promised to accompany us +thither. The wind was very high, and the Cape encircled with numerous +visible and invisible rocks, but there was a clear passage to the shore, +keeping outside of the breakers. But whether from the violence of the +wind, or from the eagerness with which our trusty captain wished soon to +join his countrymen, he steered right through the midst of them, when +suddenly the boat struck with great violence upon a sunken rock. The +shock was so great, that all on board were thrown down, and every thing +tumbled about. Poor Agnes, Jonas’s wife, got a severe wound in her +head. We immediately took in all our sails, and after hard labour, +succeeded in pushing the boat off the rock. On examination we found that +all was safe, and thanked God, with hearts filled with humble +acknowledgments of His mercy, for preserving us from danger and death. +The boat had struck in such a manner, that the keel, which was new and +strong, being constructed of one solid piece of timber, sustained the +whole shock. Had she taken the rock with her bottom, she would most +likely have bilged, or upset, and it is a great question, whether our +lives, but particularly the lives of the <a name="page39"></a>little children, could have +been saved, the sea running very high. The skin-boat was thrown right +over the rocks on shore, by the violence of the surf.</p> + +<p>Kumiganna soon came off in his kayak, and advised us to steer for the +land right before us, where he thought we should find <i>Uttakiyok</i>; +nor was there any safe anchorage in this place. We therefore took a +young Esquimaux on board as pilot, and steered between the main land and +the islands, for <i>Oppernavik</i>, twenty English miles off. Having +left the skin-boat to follow us, we cut swiftly through the water, and +soon reached the place of our destination.</p> +</div> + +<br /> +<br /> +<hr noshade="noshade" size="4" width="20%" align="center" /> +<br /> +<a name="ch7"></a> +<h3>CHAPTER VII.</h3> +<div class="synopsis"> + +<p>Arrival at Oppernavik. Account of Uttakiyok. His perseverance in +waiting for the arrival of the Missionaries. Islands and bays between +Kakkeviak and Killinek. Danger in the ice at Ammitok. Want of fuel +supplied by robbing old graves.</p> +</div> + +<div class="text"> +<p>W<small>HEN</small> we arrived at Oppernavik, we found +<i>Uttakiyok</i>, with his two wives and youngest brother, waiting to +receive us. He and his family are from the Ungava bay, and had been upon +the watch in this place during the whole spring. They welcomed us with +shouts of joy, and firing of their pieces, and we had indeed the +greatest reason to thank God, that he had sent us this man, to conduct +us on our way to an unknown country, and through unfrequented seas.</p> + +<p>For this service Uttakiyok was eminently qualified, and without such +a steady, faithful guide, we should have been wandering in the most +painful and dangerous uncertainty in the desert regions to the West of +Cape <a name="page40"></a>Chudleigh, where, on a coast of 100 miles in length, we did not +meet with a single inhabitant. He was so anxiously intent upon meeting +us, that he had erected signals on all the heights surrounding his tent, +to prevent our missing him. Among his countrymen he is much respected, +on account of his superior sense, and skill in all Esquimaux arts, and +possesses great influence among them.</p> + +<p><i>Uttakiyok</i> was one of the two Esquimaux, from whom, in the year +1800, we received the first distinct information respecting the Ungava +country and its inhabitants, by which the desire, excited both at home +and here in Labrador, to visit the northern Esquimaux, was greatly +strengthened, and led to a resolution, if possible, to take early steps +to accomplish this object, (<a href="#page3">See page 3</a>).</p> + +<p>Two years ago, he had been on a trading voyage to Okkak, from +Killinek, where he then dwelt, and intended to return, in the summer +following, to Ungava, his native country, but an illness, which befel +his son, detained him. This intelligence was received at Okkak during +last winter, when we sent him word, that as we purposed paying his +countrymen a visit, we wished him to wait for us, that he might conduct +us through the straits of Killinek. But having heard nothing further +concerning him, we remained in uncertainty respecting his intentions. We +were the more thankful to God, who had disposed the heart of this man +cheerfully to accept of the commission, and wait to be our guide, an +office which he performed with a degree of faithfulness and +disinterested kindness, which claims our admiration and gratitude.</p> + +<p>While we were here waiting for a favourable opportunity to pass the +straits, which were yet filled with ice, he behaved in the kindest +manner to us and our Esquimaux. Though a heathen, he regularly attended +our morning and evening worship, and declared to Jonathan, that he also +intended to be converted to Jesus, and if we would form a settlement in +his country, would come and <a name="page41"></a>live with us, and was sure, that many of his +countrymen would do the same.</p> + +<p>Around his tent, a considerable extent of rock was covered with +seal’s flesh, and in the hollows were pools of oil. Ten bags of +blubber were standing ready for sale; and with a view to shew him our +good-will, Brother Kohlmeister bartered with him for three of them, +which were hid under the stones, to take them with us, if practicable, +on our return.</p> + +<p>26th. We put up our three tents; Uttakiyok’s people had three +more. Wind N.W. We were now near the entrance into the Ikkerasak, (or +straits), which separate the island of Killinek and two or three other +large islands from the continent. They stretch to the N. to the distance +of about 12 or 15 English miles, the outer one forming Cape Chudleigh. +To the N.W. of the cape lie some other small islands, called by the +Esquimaux <i>Tutsaets</i>, and N.N.E. of these, the great island +<i>Resolution</i>, called <i>Igloarsuk</i>, on which, as we were +informed, many Esquimaux reside. The Tutsaets were discernible from this +place, but not the latter, which however, as the Esquimaux say, may be +seen from the Tutsaets. We guessed at its situation, from the clouds +hanging over it in the North quarter. The weather was, as might be +expected on the northern coast of America, foggy, rainy, and cold, and +our small stove, which we brought into the tent, was of great use to us +during our stay in this place.</p> + +<p>27th. Rain and wind violent, and prevented our proceeding. We caught +some <i>Pitsiolaks</i>, (awks), and a brace of young puffins, which, +with the addition of some salt meat, made excellent broth.</p> + +<p>28th. The weather was fair, but the wind still blowing hard at N.W. +Brother Kmoch went to Uttakiyok’s tent, and sitting down with him +at the point of Oppernavik, and looking down the coast as far as +Kakkeviak, got him to <a name="page42"></a>name all the bays, points, and islands, from +Kakkeviak to Oppernavik, of which he made minutes. The distance between +the two points or headlands may be guessed at, by the time of sailing +with a strong leading wind, namely three hours and a half. Coming up +from Kakkeviak, to the E. lie three islands, <i>Kikkertorsoak</i>, +<i>Imilialuk</i>, rather less in view, and <i>Nessetservik</i>. Having +passed these, there follows a chain of small, naked islands, not very +high, stretching towards Killinek. To the W. near Kakkeviak lies +<i>Uglek</i>; then a bay, <i>Nulluk</i>, and farther to the left another +bay, <i>Tellek</i>, (right arm). The country along these bays is called +<i>Attanarsuk</i>. Now follow the bay <i>Ikkorliarsuk</i>, the lower +point of <i>Tikkerarsuk</i>, the bay <i>Annivagtok</i>, and +<i>Kakkeviak</i>, a high promontory, (not to be confounded with the +other Kakkeviak, where we struck on the rock. This promontory is only +about four miles from Oppernavik to the S.E.). Then follow two small +bays, <i>Anniovariktok</i> and <i>Sangmiyok</i>, then the promontory +<i>Ukkuliakartok</i>, (meaning a headland between two bays), and the bay +<i>Tunnusuksoak</i>. Next, the last point on the continent, forming the +south entrance to the Ikkerasak. The abovementioned chain of barren +islands is called by the Esquimaux <i>Naviarutsit</i>, and besides them +some low rocks, <i>Nuvurutsit</i>. The island of Killinek is about nine +miles long, and five broad, high, and forming the north side of the +straits. Another Ikkerasak, (or strait), divides it from an island +called Kikkertorsoak, (a common name for an island), of considerable +height, but not so long as <i>Killinek</i>: one, or perhaps more islands +follow, narrowing E. and W. and forming Cape Chudleigh.</p> + +<p>To-day there was much ice both in the strait and at sea. We went to +the nearest island, where Brother Kohlmeister took an observation, and +found our situation to be 60° 16'.</p> + +<p>30th. It blew a hard gale from the N.E., rained hard, and <a name="page43"></a>as the ice +now began to enter our harbour, we were busily engaged in keeping it off +the boat.</p> + +<p>31st. Imagining to-day that the straits would be free from ice, we +resolved to attempt to pass them, and set sail. But it soon became +evident, that there was still plenty of ice in the neighbourhood, and +the wind setting to the N.E. with fogs, we were obliged to return. +Suspecting also that the easterly wind would again drive the ice into +our former harbour at Oppernavik, we ran into a short pass, between that +and a small island called Ammitok, where we anchored under shelter of +the island. The sequel proved, that we had for once acted with sound +judgment and foresight, for our former anchoring-ground was soon filled +with ice; and during the night large flakes entered even into our +present place of refuge.</p> + +<p><i>August</i> 1st. At day break we found ourselves completely +surrounded by floating ice, a strong N.W. wind driving the large shoals +from the W. side of the little pass in which we lay, with much force +towards us, insomuch that our boat was in the greatest danger of being +crushed to pieces by them. We were all day long hard at work with poles, +boat-hooks, and hatchets, to ward off the larger shoals, but when the +tide fell, they hung upon our cables and anchors, of which we had three +out, closing in also on all sides of the boat, so that we were every +moment in fearful expectation of her being carried away, and our anchors +lost, which would have reduced us to the most distressing situation. +Indeed we all cried to the Lord to help us in this dangerous situation, +and not to suffer us to perish here, but by His almighty aid, to save us +and our boat. With great and unremitting exertions we had laboured all +day, from the morning early, till seven in the evening, when the Lord +heard our prayers, and sent relief. We now succeeded in working the boat +out of the ice, the rising of the tide having opened a passage through +it, just as we were almost <a name="page44"></a>exhausted with fatigue. It also became quite +calm, and we felt as if we had passed from death to life.</p> + +<p>Having anchored again on the opposite side of the little pass or +strait, we gave thanks to God, for the deliverance we had experienced +through His mercy, in which our Esquimaux, young and old, most fervently +joined.</p> + +<p>During our stay at Oppernavik, our whole stock of fire-wood was +expended, and we were obliged to purchase of our companions, what they +had to spare. We likewise robbed some old Esquimaux graves of the wooden +utensils, which it is the superstitious practice of the heathen to lay +beside the corpses of their owners, with old tent-poles, &c. and +thus obtained fuel sufficient for our cookery.</p> + +<p>Wood will not decay by mere exposure to the air in Labrador, but +wastes away gradually; and after forty or more years, the wood found at +the graves is still fit for use.</p> +</div> + +<br /> +<br /> +<hr noshade="noshade" size="4" width="20%" align="center" /> +<br /> +<a name="ch8"></a> +<h3>CHAPTER VIII.</h3> + +<div class="synopsis"> +<p>Departure from Oppernavik. Pass the Ikkerasak of Killinek. +Whirlpools. The coast takes a southerly direction. Meeting with +Esquimaux from the Ungava country, who had never seen an European. +Anchor at Omanek. High tides. Drift-wood. Double Cape Uibvaksoak. +Distant view of Akpatok.</p> +</div> + +<div class="text"> +<p>A<small>UGUST</small> 2d.—H<small>AVING</small> made all +needful preparations for the voyage, a gentle but favourable wind, and +occasional rowing, brought us, about nine in the morning, to the +entrance of the much dreaded Ikkerasak. The weather was pleasant and +warm, not a flake of ice was to be seen, and all our fear and anxiety +had subsided. Our minds were attuned to praise and thanksgiving for the +providential preservation <a name="page45"></a>we had experienced yesterday. We performed our +morning devotions on deck, and all joined in a joyful hallelujah to God +our Saviour, which was sweetly repeated by echoes among the mountains +and precipices on either side. The scripture-text appointed in the +Church of the United Brethren for this day being read, it seemed as if +addressed particularly to us, separated as we felt ourselves, in these +lonely regions, from the rest of the inhabitants of the earth: +“<i>See now that I, even I, am He, and there is no God with me: I +kill, and I make alive; I wound, and I heal.</i>” Deut. 32, 39. We +rejoiced, that we were in the hands of a gracious and merciful God and +Father, who would not forsake us, but deal with us according to his +wonted mercy and favour.</p> + +<p>The Ikkerasak, (or strait), is about ten miles in length; the land on +each side high and rocky, and in some places precipitous, but there +appeared no rocks in the strait itself. The water is deep and clear. Its +mouth is wide, and soon after entering, a bay opens to the left, which +by an inlet only just wide enough to admit a boat, communicates with a +lagoon of considerable magnitude, in which lies an island on its western +bank. Beyond this bay, the passage narrows and consequently the stream, +always setting from N. to S. grows more rapid. Here the mountains on +both sides rise to a great height. Having proceeded for two miles in a +narrow channel, the strait opens again, but afterwards contracts to +about 1000 yards across; immediately beyond which, the left coast turns +to the south. As the tide ebbs regularly with the current from N. to S. +along the whole coast of Labrador, the current through the strait is +most violent during its fall, and less, when resisted by its influx on +rising.</p> + +<p>We were taught to expect much danger in passing certain eddies or +whirlpools in the narrow parts of the straits, and were therefore +continually upon the look-out for them. When we passed the first narrow +channel, at 12 P.M. it being low water, no whirlpool was perceptible. +Having <a name="page46"></a>sailed on for little more than half an hour, with wind and tide +in our favour, we reached the second. Here, indeed, we discovered a +whirlpool, but of no great magnitude at this state of the tide. Near the +north-shore the water was, indeed, whirled round in the manner of a +boiling cauldron of ten or twelve feet diameter, with considerable noise +and much foam; but we passed without the smallest inconvenience, within +thirty or forty feet of the outer circle. Our skin-boat, however, which +we had in tow, with a man in it, was seized by the vortex, and received +a rapid twist; but as the towing-rope did not break, she was immediately +rescued from danger by the swiftness of our course, and the affair +afforded us more diversion than anxiety. The motion of the water in +these eddies is so great, that they never freeze in the severest winter. +The ice being drawn towards them with great force, the largest shoals +are carried under water, and thrown up again, broken into numerous +fragments. The Ikkerasak is at that season utterly impassable for boats. +The Killinek people inhabit an island to the right, after leaving the +strait.</p> + +<p>When we quitted the Ikkerasak, and entered the ocean on the western +side of Cape Chudleigh, it seemed as if we were transported to a new +world. Hitherto the coast to our left had always taken a northerly +direction. It now turned to the S.S.W. and is low, with gently sloping +hills, the sea being full of small islands, abounding in sea-fowl.</p> + +<p>To the N. and N.W. we saw the open sea in Hudson’s Straits, +which, compared to the turbulent Atlantic, seemed calm and peaceful. We +sailed briskly amidst the islands, and overtook the inhabitants of +Saeglek, whom we had seen at Kakkeviak, where they had got the start of +us. The wind being favourable, we did not hail them, but kept on our +course. We now saw with pleasure the Ungava country to the South before +us, but had first to pass the low point of <i>Uivarsuk</i>, the bay of +<i>Arvavik</i>, in which the people from <a name="page47"></a>Saeglek had their summer +stations, and the mountain <i>Omanek</i>, of moderate height, and +surrounded by many small islets, called by the Esquimaux +<i>Erngavinget</i>, (bowels). We now discovered three skin-boats full of +people standing towards us from the shore. They were inhabitants of +Ungava, and welcomed our approach with loud shouts of joy and firing +their pieces, which was answered by our party. They followed us to +Omanek, a round island rising like a loaf among the rest, where they +pitched their tents on shore.</p> + +<p>Some of them had formerly dwelt in different places north of Okkak, +and were known to the Missionaries in former times, the rest were +perfect strangers. They declared their intention of coming over to the +North of Okkak, to remain some time in that country, for the sake of +trade. It has been mentioned, that some of the Ungava people have come +to Okkak, and carry on a trade between their countrymen and that place. +They are a kind of middle men, bring fox and bear-skins, and exchange +them for European goods. These they carry back, and sell at a very +advanced price in the Ungava country. They spend two years on such a +trading voyage.</p> + +<p>Brother Kohlmeister visited the people in their tents. They were +about fifty in number, men, women, and children. He informed them, that +nothing could induce the Missionaries to come into this country, but +love to the poor heathen, and an ardent desire to make them acquainted +with their Creator and Redeemer, that through Him they might attain to +happiness in time and eternity. Some seemed to listen with great +attention, but the greater part understood nothing of what was said. +This, of course, did not surprise us, as most of them were quite +ignorant heathen, who had never before seen an European. They, however, +raised a shout of joy, when we informed them, that we would come and +visit them in their own country. Many were not satisfied with <a name="page48"></a>viewing +us on every side with marks of great astonishment, but came close up to +us, and pawed us all over. At taking leave we presented them with a few +trifles, which excited among them the greatest pleasure and +thankfulness.</p> + +<p>We recommend these heathen to the mercy of God, and pray, that the +day may soon dawn, when the light of the saving gospel of Jesus may +shine into their hearts.</p> + +<p>3d. Several of them came on board, once more to see us, and, in their +way, to express their regard and gratitude. They also got some useful +articles from our people, in exchange for their goods. We now set sail, +passed a point called <i>Oglarvik</i>, and the bay <i>Takpangayok</i>, +and arrived at <i>Tuktusiovik</i>, (a place where reindeer are seen), +where we cast anchor for the night. Already at Omanek we had discovered +a great difference between the rise and fall of the tides there and +about Killinek. In the latter place it rose to four fathoms, but here +still higher. The country looked pleasant, with many berry-bearing +plants and bushes. There was, likewise, plenty of drift-wood all along +the coast; not the large Greenland timber, but small trees and roots, +evidently carried out of the great rivers of the Ungava by the ice. We +had, of course, fire-wood enough, without robbing the graves of their +superstitious furniture. Our Esquimaux pitched their tent on shore, and +we supped with them on a mess of seal’s flesh and eider-ducks. The +musquitoes were extremely troublesome during our repast, after which we +retired to sleep on board the boat.</p> + +<p>4th. Wind fair. We passed numerous low rocks; a point, by name +unknown to Uttakiyok; the bay <i>Ikpigitok</i>, two miles broad, and the +cape called <i>Uibvaksoak</i>, the northern boundary of the great bay or +gulf of <i>Abloriak</i>. This cape is surrounded by many bare and sunken +rocks, which caused us to stand out pretty far to the westward. While we +were off the point, we descried, at a very great distance to the N.W. a +large island, called by the Esquimaux <i>Akpatok</i>. <a name="page49"></a>They say, that it +encloses the whole bay or gulf towards the sea, and consists of high +land: also, that it is connected with the western continent at low water +by an isthmus. The north coast of this island appears to be the line +laid down in maps and charts as the coast of America, to the south of +Hudson’s Straits. But the district of Ungava is separated from the +island by a large inland bay, extending southward to the 58° N.L. +North of Akpatok, the Esquimaux speak of islands well peopled by their +countrymen, who have never seen Europeans.</p> + +<p>Having safely doubled the point or cape of <i>Uibvaksoak</i>, we came +to an anchor near a small island to the south, where we spent the +night.</p> + +<p>5th. Calm weather, and proceeded gently. About 9 A.M. the wind turned +against us, and we ran into a small bay, about five miles from our +former anchoring-place. Here we found the <i>Andromeda tetragona</i> +growing in tolerable quantity, on the banks of a lagoon of fresh water. +The face of the country was unpleasant, with many steep rocks. On a +precipice behind our tent we perceived nests of birds of prey. The naked +rocks had singular shapes, and presented to the imagination the ruins of +a destroyed town. In the vallies we saw many small lagoons, but little +grass, and the excrements of geese. It was about full moon, and the tide +rising here five or six fathom, occasioned the most strange alterations +in the prospect towards the sea, which, being smooth and clear of rocks +at high water, exhibited, after its fall, an archipelago of rugged +islands and black flats.</p> +</div> + +<br /> +<br /> +<hr noshade="noshade" size="4" width="20%" align="center" /> +<br /> +<a name="ch9"></a> +<a name="page50"></a> +<h3>CHAPTER IX.</h3> + +<div class="synopsis"> +<p>Chain of black mountains. The Dragon’s dwelling. Changes +occasioned by rise and fall of the tides, and dangers attending +them. Uttakiyok’s superstitious customs. Singular +effect of the tide in the bay of Ittimnekoktok. Arrive at +Kangertlualuksoak bay and river. Its situation. Transactions +there.</p> +</div> + +<div class="text"> +<p>A<small>UGUST</small> 6th.—W<small>E </small>crossed the bay +<i>Abloriak</i>, which is large and wide, with many small islands and +rocks towards the sea, and high black mountains inland, called +<i>Torngaets</i>. Uttakiyok, who was always very eager to make us +attentive to every object and its name, shewed us here a wide and deep +cavern, in shape like the gable end of an house, situated at the top of +a precipice, in a black mountain, of a very horrid and dark appearance. +This, he informed us, was the dwelling place of Torngak, the evil +spirit. The scenery was, indeed, extremely wild and terrible, and the +beforementioned prospect of the rocks and islands at low water gave to +the whole country a most singularly gloomy character. Nor is this +change, occasioned by the tide in the state of the sea, merely in +appearance terrific, it is so in reality: for we never durst cast anchor +in less than eight or nine fathoms water, lest at ebb-tide we should +find ourselves aground, or even high and dry.</p> + +<p>The cavern just spoken of, connected with the chain of black +mountains in which it is situated, we called the Dragon’s +dwelling, but had no time to examine the place, though it did not appear +inaccessible. Whether Uttakiyok would have ventured to accompany us into +it, is another question, for he was, with all his good sense, strongly +attached to the superstitious notions and ceremonies of his <a name="page51"></a>countrymen. +Thus, on passing dangerous places he always hung the claw of a raven to +his breast, and carried the blown paunch of a seal upon a tent-pole +fixed to one side of his boat. The latter is a common practice among the +northern Esquimaux, and probably considered by them all as a very +efficient charm.</p> + +<p>We passed <i>Sioralik</i>, and many small and flat rocky islands: the +bay <i>Issorkitok</i>, (a grassy place), a nameless headland; and the +larger bay <i>Nappartolik</i>, (a woody country). The wood is said to +commence at the interior point of this bay, and to continue throughout +the whole of the Ungava country, which, as we afterwards discovered, +extends to a considerable distance to the southward. Then follows +<i>Tunnuyalik</i>, a point, or perhaps an island, on which lies a huge +white stone, twenty or thirty feet high, by which it is distinguished +from other similar headlands. A chain of low, flat islands, runs out +into the sea to a considerable distance, and appearing at a distance as +continued land, they are mistaken for a cape. Farther on is the bay +<i>Ittimnekoktok,</i> where it grew dark before we found a suitable +anchorage. The wind was high, and some of our company went on shore in +the skin-boat, in order to pitch their tent, and spend the night.</p> + +<p>7th. On rising, to our great surprise, we found ourselves left by the +tide in a shallow pool of water, surrounded by rocky hills; nor could we +at all discover the situation of our skin-boat, till after the water had +begun to rise, and raised us above the banks of our watery dungeon, +when, with great astonishment, not having been able to find it on the +surface of the sea, and accidentally directing our eyes upwards, we saw +it perched upon the top of a considerable eminence, and apparently on +shore. We then landed, and ascending a rising ground, beheld with some +terror, the wonderful changes occasioned by the tides. Our course was +visible to the extent of two or three English miles, but <a name="page52"></a>the sea had +left it, and we were obliged to remain in this dismal place, till about +noon, before the water had risen sufficiently to carry us out. We now +began to entertain fears, lest we might not always be able to find +proper harbours, so as to avoid being left high and dry at low water; +for having anchored in nine fathoms last night, we were left in one and +a half this morning. Uttakiyok and Thukkekina were with us on shore. The +eminence on which we stood was overgrown with vaccinia and other plants, +and we saw among them marks of its being visited by hares. Near the +summit was a spot, covered with red sand, which stained one’s +fingers, and among it were fragments of a substance resembling cast +iron. We seemed here to stand on a peninsula connected by an isthmus +with another island, or with the continent; but probably at high water +it may be a separate island. </p> + +<p>As soon as the tide would permit, we set out, and proceeded towards a +cape called <i>Kattaktok</i>, surrounded by small islands. Between the +cape and our anchoring place, we passed, on the left, the following +objects; <i>Keglo</i>, a broad deep bay; <i>Katarusialik</i>, a +headland, probably of the continent; <i>Ukkasiksalik</i>, (meaning a +place where soap stone is found), a peninsula; and to the right of the +latter place, an island, <i>Kikkertarsoak</i>, which lies at the +entrance of the <i>Great Bay</i>, or estuary of the great river +<i>Kangertlualuksoak</i>. We sailed with a strong, but favourable wind, +with some rain, between the peninsula and the island; and not trusting +to the depth of the water at ebb-tide, sent two kayaks forward to sound. +They soon brought us into a good harbour, where we cast anchor about +half past five P.M.</p> + +<p><i>Kangertlualuksoak</i> river was the spot to which we had +principally directed our views. It lies about 140 miles S.S.W. of Cape +Chudleigh. By an observation at its mouth its latitude appeared to be +58° 57'. But we had no means of finding the longitude. At its +entrance the bay <a name="page53"></a>runs rather S.S.E. for about ten or twelve English +miles, then turns due S.E. for six or eight more, and after that S.W. At +the second turn towards the S.E. there is the greatest quantity of wood, +chiefly Larch, but of moderate size. We particularly noticed a fine +slope facing the south, which appeared the most pleasant part of the +bay, to which a vessel might approach and anchor with convenience, there +being from 24 to 30 fathoms water. We also imagined that the entrance +from the sea would be free from obstructions, as no islands are seen in +that direction. Uttakiyok likewise declared, that there was no bar or +sunken rocks near the mouth of the bay.</p> + +<p>We found no inhabitants on our arrival, but on the 13th, a whole +company of people from Killinek joined us.</p> + +<p>Our transactions in the bay of <i>Kangertlualuksoak</i>, from the +7th, are here noticed more in detail.</p> + +<p><i>August</i> 8th. We landed, and went in search of our people, who +had spent the night in tents on shore. Okkiksuk accompanied us to the +top of a hill, overlooking the bay <i>Ittimnekoktok</i>, where we had +anchored the day before. We saw it quite dry, and full of large +fragments of rock. Turning towards the land, we discovered some wood at +a distance. The weather being calm and warm, the musquitoes were +excessively troublesome. The vallies here are overgrown with verdure, +and the hills pretty well clothed with moss, and berry-bearing plants; +but we could not continue our walk, on account of the musquitoes, which +persecuted us unmercifully, and drove us back to our tents. All our men +were out, two on that side on which we had landed, and the others having +crossed the bay in their kayaks, were employed in hunting reindeer. +Jonathan only remained at home. In the afternoon he accompanied us in +the small boat, to a hill, situated to the South of our station, at +about two miles distant, where we landed, and went up the country, but +found nothing much worth notice. We observed, <a name="page54"></a>that round the headland +near us, the water was very rough, with eddies and whirlpools, +occasioned by the rising of the high tides. On returning to our little +boat, we found it aground. We therefore gathered some drift-wood, of +which there was plenty, and made a good fire, at which we sat down and +regaled ourselves with some biscuit and beer. Having pushed the boat +into the water, we set out, but owing to the violence of the current had +hard work to get to the great boat, and did not arrive till dark. Jonas +saluted us from on board, by firing off his piece in token of success, +and we found that he had got two, and his companion three reindeer, and +a small black bear. The carcases were left at the tents, where part was +cooked, and a mess brought to us on board, which proved an agreeable +repast after our fatigue. Jonas and his family spent the night on board, +the rest of the Esquimaux in their tents on shore.</p> + +<p>9th. Jonas having found a good harbour on the other side of the bay, +and the current being here very strong, we sailed across and anchored +there. The strand was even, and full of smooth rocks, above high water +mark. The bottom of the bay is mud, and a slimy substance, covering all +the stones and pebbles, left by the tide, makes walking very +troublesome.</p> + +<p>The land is not high, but pleasant, covered with moss, with many +small ponds, and marks of being frequented by reindeer. </p> + +<p>10th. We went farther up the bay in the skin-boat, with Jonathan, +Uttakiyok, Thukkekina, Paul, David, and Okkiksuk. At a short distance +from the place where we had landed yesterday, we came to a fine green +terrace, overgrown with low shrubs and bushes, which delighted us much. +From hence, a woody valley, extending to the left, seemed to invite us +to take that course into the country, but we would not waste our time by +examining it. On sailing farther up the bay, and turning round the +<a name="page55"></a>abovementioned terrace, we came to a small inlet, dry at low water, on +the left shore. Its banks were pleasantly covered with low bushes, +interspersed with higher trees, and the place seemed to us very suitable +for a settlement. From hence we perceived, at a short distance, on the +opposite coast, a cape or headland, over which the tops of trees made +their appearance. We sailed towards it, and found behind it a tract +covered with low wood, chiefly larch and pine: on landing we saw the +tracks of rein-deer, which had just left the spot. Jonathan, in an +instant, ran like a young man for his gun, and with it into the wood. We +followed him for two or three miles, but saw nothing but the track of +the deer. The country inland seems in general level, with some low +hills, and many ponds; without wood, but overgrown with rein-deer moss. +No success attended our huntsman, and in the evening we met again in the +boat. Brother Kmoch had kept up with Jonathan, and saw, among the +bushes, the same kind of large partridge, or American wild pheasant, +which is found about Okkak, but seems only to live in woods. It was a +hen, with a covey of young birds, one of which which he caught, +examined, and let go again, nor would he take or shoot the hen, out of +compassion to the young brood.</p> + +<p>Brother Kohlmeister had meanwhile gone farther up the bay, and +thought he had discovered the entrance of the river, but no fresh water +appearing, we must still have been a great way off its influx into the +bay.</p> + +<p>We now lighted a fire, boiled coffee, and cooked a dish of reindeer +venison. The weather was warm, and the night fine and clear, but frosty. +Having brought our travelling-beds with us on shore, (<a href="#page34">see +page 34</a>), we crept into them, and spent the night at the fire-side, +the Esquimaux lying down anywhere about us. In the morning, the whole +country was covered with hoar-frost, and the straw we had lain upon was +frozen fast to the ground.</p> +</div> +<br /> +<br /> +<hr noshade="noshade" size="4" width="20%" align="center" /> +<br /> +<a name="ch10"></a> +<a name="page56"></a> +<h3>CHAPTER X.</h3> +<div class="synopsis"> +<p>Further transactions in Kangertlualuksoak Bay. The Esquimaux +women frightened by reports of Indians. Ceremony of taking +possession of this new-explored country, as belonging to the King +of England, and of naming the river George river. Leave the bay +and proceed to Arvarvik. Whales caught by the Esquimaux in the +shallows. Storm at Kernertut.</p> +</div> + +<div class="text"> +<p>A<small>UGUST</small> 11th.—W<small>E</small> rose by break of day, and after breakfast, +sailed across the bay, and landed at the second small inlet, with an +intention of penetrating into the country, but the returning warmth of +the weather by day, and the myriads of musquitoes we had to contend +with, rendered us unable to execute our purpose.</p> + +<p>The Missionaries and Jonathan ascended a hill, from which a great +tract of country might be overlooked. It was full of wood, as far as the +eye could reach. Near the inlet some places seemed boggy, or covered +with grass. From hence a valley stretched into the country, with a small +lake in it, about two or three miles distant. Berries were every where +in abundance. The summits of the hills had no wood upon them, but much +reindeer-moss.</p> + +<p>On our return, being about a mile from our landing-place, we saw our +skin-boat in the middle of the bay, and fired a gun as a signal for it +to come to us. The Esquimaux had five rein-deer in the boat, which +Uttakiyok had perceived on the opposite bank. He had followed them in +his kayak, driven them into the water, and killed them there. When hard +pressed, reindeer soon take to the water, and swim so well, that a +four-oared boat can scarcely come up <a name="page57"></a>with them, but an Esquimaux, in his +kayak will overtake them. They therefore, if possible, drive them into +the water, being then sure of their game.</p> + +<p>After dining on part of the venison, we returned to the great boat. +On the passage, we thought we perceived at a considerable distance a +black bear, and Uttakiyok, elated with his recent success, hoped to gain +new laurels. He entered his kayak and proceeded as cautiously as +possible along the shore, towards the spot, landed, climbed the hill, so +as not to be observed, but when he had got just within gun-shot, +perceived, that his bear was a black stone. This adventure furnished the +company with merriment for the remainder of the voyage to the boat, +which we reached about six P.M. </p> + +<p>When we got on board the boat, we found that all the women had taken +refuge in it, thinking that they had seen Indians onshore. The men +therefore immediately landed, to take care of the forsaken tents. This +was no doubt a false alarm, for we never discovered any traces of them +during our stay. To the south of Hopedale the Indians and Esquimaux +sometimes meet, but as the Hopedale Esquimaux seek to cultivate their +friendship, quarrels and bloodshed seldom occur. In Ungava, however, +though they often exchange tokens of friendship, they are apt to give +way to their national jealousies; and provocations being aggravated, +their meetings now and then terminate in murder. The Esquimaux are much +afraid of the Indians, who are a more nimble and active race.</p> + +<p>12th. Having finished reconnoitring the neighbourhood, and gathered +all the information concerning it, which our means would permit, and +likewise fixed upon the green slope or terrace above described, as the +most suitable place for a settlement, on account of the abundance of +wood in its neighbourhood, we made preparations to proceed. Uttakiyok, +who had spent more than one winter in the Ungava country, assured us, +that there was here an ample supply of <a name="page58"></a>provisions, both in summer and +winter, which Jonathan also credited, from his own observation. The +former likewise expressed himself convinced, that if we would form a +settlement here, many Esquimaux would come to us from all parts. We +ourselves were satisfied that Europeans might find the means of +existence in this place, as it was accessible for ships, and had wood +and water in plenty. As for Esquimaux, there appeared no want of those +things upon which they live, the sea abounding with whitefish, seals, +sea fowl, &c. and the land with reindeer, hares, bears, and other +animals. The people from Killinek declared their intention of removing +hither, if we would come and dwell among them, and are even now in the +habit of visiting this place every summer. Our own company even +expressed a wish to spend the winter here.</p> + +<p>This being the day before our departure, we erected, on two opposite +hills, at the entrance of the bay, high marks of stones, and on the +declivity of a hill to the right, a board, into which we had cut an +inscription, thus—</p><br /> + +<table summary="Inscriptions" align="center"> + <tr align="center"> + <td align="center"> +In front, + </td> + <td align="center"> + + </td> + <td align="center"> +At the back. + </td> +</tr> + <tr align="center"> + <td align="center"> + <img width="35%" src="images/3a.png" alt= + "Tablet front" /></td> + <td align="center"> + </td> + <td align="center"> + <img width="35%" src="images/3b.png" alt= + "Tablet back" /></td> + </tr> + <tr align="center"> + <td align="center"> + <small>Georgius III. Rex.<br /> + Societas<br /> + Unitatis Fratrum.<br /> + </small></td> + <td align="center"> + </td> + + <td align="center"> + <small>Benjamin Kohlmeister,<br /> + George Kmoch,<br /> + Aug. 7, 1811. <br /> + The day of our arrival.</small></td> +</tr> +</table> +<br /> +<p>We raised and fixed this tablet with some solemnity, in presence of +Uttakiyok and his family, as representatives of the people of Ungava, +and of our own company, and hoisted the British flag alongside of it, +while another was displayed at the same time in the boat. We explained +the cause of this ceremony to all present, to the following +effect—</p> + +<a name="page59"></a><p>“That we, on this day, raised this sign, in the name of our +king, George III. the great monarch of all these territories, in +testimony of our having explored it, and made choice of it, in case we +or our Brethren should think proper to settle here. To which we called +upon all present to bear witness.” We then proclaimed the name of +the Kangertlualuksoak to be henceforth <i>George River</i>, upon which +every man fired his piece three times, the vollies being answered from +the boat.</p> + +<p>The texts of scripture appointed for this day were then read, and we +remarked how encouraging they were, as relating to the purpose, for +which we visited these unknown regions:</p> + + +<p><i>From the rising of the sun, even to the going down of the same, my +name shall be great among the Gentiles, saith the Lord of Hosts!</i> +Mal. 11, 1.</p> + +<p><i>At the name of Jesus every knee shall bow, of things in heaven, +and things in earth, and things under the earth; and every tongue shall +confess, that Jesus Christ is Lord, to the glory of God the Father!</i> +Philippians, 2, 10, 11.</p> + +<p>After the ceremony was over, we distributed some pease, bread, and +beer among the Esquimaux, which enabled them to make a splendid feast, +and the day was spent in the most agreeable manner.</p> + +<p>13th. We set sail, about six A.M. with a gentle breeze, which however +soon fell away entirely, and obliged us to take to our oars. Near the +mouth of the bay, we met several kayaks, coming towards us. They were +Esquimaux from Killinek, who expressed regret at not having sooner heard +of our being here; some came on board, and traded with our people. We +presented them with a little tobacco, for which they were very +thankful.</p> + +<p>In order to get well out of the bay, we first steered North, and then +passed to the S.W. between a peninsula <i>Nauyat</i>, lying to the left +of the entrance, and seven small islands and <a name="page60"></a>rocks on the right, towards +the island of <i>Arvarvik</i>, about six or seven miles distant, where +we were obliged to cast anchor in an exposed situation, the wind having +become contrary. There was a strong swell during the night, which +violently agitated our boat.</p> + +<p><i>Arvarvik</i> is about five miles in circumference. It is covered +with the bones of whales, which the Esquimaux catch here in their +kayaks. The coast is surrounded by a great number of small low islands, +with deep pools between them. Into these the whales stray at high water, +and at the ebbing of the tide, are prevented finding their way back +again. The Esquimaux then pursue and kill them with harpoons. In the +island are ponds of fresh water, and some low hills, overgrown with +moss. A great number of sea-fowl, and also reindeer, are found upon +it.</p> + +<p>On the shore we found great quantities of a red jasper, or +iron-stone, the same which occurs throughout the coast, from +<i>Killinek</i> to South river, not as a stratum, but in lumps, and +generally below high water mark.</p> + +<p>The Esquimaux who landed on the continent reported, that about two +miles inland, there was much low wood.</p> + +<p>14th. We left our unpleasant anchorage, and returned to a place where +the skin-boat had lain during the night, as it was sheltered from the +South wind, which had risen considerably.</p> + +<p>15th. Our people went out to hunt reindeer, and returned in the +evening with two. The wind shifted to the west, and blew with violence. +We spent again an uneasy night.</p> + +<p>16th. Brother Kmoch went on shore and returned with a parcel of +stones for examination. We now began to feel some anxiety on account of +the great loss of time we were suffering here by contrary winds.</p> + +<p>17th. About eight o’clock we set sail, the wind having come +round to the S.E. with a cloudy sky. We passed <a name="page61"></a>several nameless islands, +at the distance of about a mile from the shore. In the afternoon, it +began to rain hard, and after having sailed about twelve miles, we cast +anchor near a long point of land, called <i>Kernertut</i>, by which we +were sheltered from the wind, which had again turned to the South-west. +The sky however was clear, and the beginning of the night pleasant, with +beautiful appearances of the Aurora Borealis. Most of our people, and +with them Uttakiyok, had gone in the skin-boat higher up the bay, but it +was too shallow to admit of our following them. Only Jonas and his +children, and the two boys Okkiksuk and Mammak, were left with us on +board.</p> + +<p>During the night the wind veered round to the N.E. and blew a gale, +which increased in violence till day-break.</p> + +<p>18th. The sea now rose to a tremendous height, such as we had never +before experienced, and by the change of wind, we were exposed to the +whole of its fury. The rain fell in torrents. We lay at three anchors, +and the boat was tossed about terribly, the sea frequently breaking +quite over her, insomuch that we expected every moment to be swallowed +up in the abyss. With much difficulty we succeeded in lowering our +after-mast. Jonathan and the rest of our company on shore, were obliged +to be passive spectators of the dreadful scene, waiting the event in +silent anguish. They quitted their tents, and came forward to some +eminences near the beach, where, by lifting up their hands, and other +gestures, they expressed terror, bordering on despair. Frequently the +boat was hid from their view by the waves, which ran mountains high. +They expected every moment that we should break loose from our anchors, +and the boat be driven on the rocks. The length of our cables was here +of the greatest advantage to us. About noon, the rope by which the small +boat was fastened, broke. She was immediately carried up the bay, and +thrown, by the violence of the surf, on the top of a rock, where she +stuck fast, keel upwards. It <a name="page62"></a>was impossible to render us any assistance, +till the tide turned, when the raging of the sea, and the wind, began to +abate. As soon as it was practicable, Jonathan and the other men came to +us in the skin-boat. He seemed quite overcome with joy, and, not able to +utter a word, held out his hand, and shed tears of gratitude that he met +us again alive, for he had given us up for lost.</p> + +<p>We now endeavoured to bring the great boat closer to the shore, +landed, pitched our tent, and gave thanks to God for the merciful +deliverance we had just experienced. Indeed all our people most +fervently joined in praise to Him for the preservation of our lives. A +warm dinner was soon prepared, by which we were much refreshed.</p> + +<p>As soon as the tide had ebbed sufficiently for it, our people went to +the rock, on which the small boat lay, and got her into the water. To +our great surprize we found, that she had received no material +injury.</p> +</div> + +<br /> +<br /> +<hr noshade="noshade" size="4" width="20%" align="center" /> +<br /> +<a name="ch11"></a> +<h3>CHAPTER XI.</h3> + +<div class="synopsis"> +<p>Doubts expressed by Jonathan and the other Esquimaux on +the expediency of continuing the voyage. Consultations. +Resolve to proceed. Thunder-storm at Pitsiolak. Account +of Indians. Esquimaux cookery and hunting feasts. Arrival +in the river Koksoak.</p> +</div> + +<div class="text"> +<p>J<small>ONATHAN</small> and Jonas now became more and more anxious +about our situation. They represented to us, that, if +we attempted to proceed farther, we might probably be +compelled to remain here the whole winter, as the stormy +season was fast approaching. They added, that to <i>them</i>, it +would be of little consequence, but that they were concerned +on <i>our</i> account.</p> + +<a name="page63"></a><p>Though we had not said any thing as yet that might tend +to shake the confidence of our party, yet we felt no small +degree of perplexity concerning present appearances. During +the six days since we left George’s River, we had made +little more than fourteen or fifteen miles, and were at least, +as far as we could judge, seventy or eighty from the river +<i>Koksoak</i>, which we had fixed upon as the final object of the +voyage, being the outermost western boundary of the Ungava +country. Insurmountable difficulties seemed now to present +themselves, owing partly to contrary winds and cold weather, +and partly to loss of time, for we had been already two +months on the voyage, and had not yet obtained our aim: +so that our return might be unseasonably late, if we proceeded. +We could not possibly make up our minds to +spend the winter here, as we had not a sufficient supply of +provisions, and knew what distress it would occasion to our +Brethren at Okkak.</p> + +<p>We felt quite at a loss what to do in this dilemma, and our +path seemed enveloped in obscurity. We remembered, that +“<i>to the upright there ariseth a light in the darkness</i>,” (Ps. +112, 4): that is, to them who fear and trust in the Lord, and +sincerely desire to know and do His will, He will reveal it. +In His name we had entered upon this voyage, the only ultimate +object of which was, the conversion of a benighted, +neglected nation, in one of the remotest corners of the earth. +We were, therefore, sure that He would not forsake us, nor +leave us in uncertainty as to His will concerning us, but that +He, “<i>whose eyes run to and fro throughout the whole +earth, to shew Himself strong in the behalf of them whose +heart is perfect towards Him</i>,” (2 Chron. 16, 9.) was, +even in this desolate region, present with us, and would +hear and answer our prayers. Many comfortable texts of +scripture occurred to our minds on this occasion, filling us +with an extraordinary degree of faith and confidence in Him, +<a name="page64"></a>particularly such as, “<i>He will be very gracious unto thee +at the voice of thy cry; when He shall hear it, He will answer +thee</i>,” Isa. 30, 19. Also, Dan. 10, 19; Jer. 16, 21; +Isa. 43, 2, &c. The mercies, also, which we had already +experienced, excited within us a sense of the deepest gratitude +and most firm trust; and we therefore told our people, +that we indeed participated in their concern, would take +the subject into serious consideration, and acquaint them +with our determination on the morrow.</p> + +<p>19th. In the morning we met in our tent, where we were +safe from the intrusion of the Esquimaux, to confer together +upon this most important subject. We weighed all the circumstances +connected with it, maturely and impartially, as +in the presence of God, and, not being able to come to any +decision, where reasons for and against the question seemed +to hold such an even balance, we determined to commit our +case to Him, who has promised, that “<i>if two of His people +shall agree on earth, as touching any thing that they shall +ask, it shall be done for them</i>,” (Matth. 18, 19.) and, +kneeling down, entreated Him to hear our prayers and supplications +in this our distressed and embarrassing situation, +and to make known to us His will concerning our future +proceedings, whether we should persevere in fulfilling the +whole aim of our voyage, or, prevented by circumstances, +give up a part, and return home from this place.</p> + +<p>The peace of God which filled our hearts on this memorable +occasion, and the strong conviction wrought in us both, +that we should persevere, in His name, to fulfil the whole +of our commission, relying without fear on His help and +preservation, no words can describe; but those who believe +in the fulfilment of the gracious promises of Jesus, given to +His poor followers and disciples, will understand us, when +we declare, that we were assured, that it was the will of God +our Saviour, that we should not now return and leave our +<a name="page65"></a>work unfinished, but proceed to the end of our proposed +voyage. Each of us communicated to his brother the conviction +of his heart, all fears and doubts vanished, and we +were filled anew with courage and willingness to act in obedience +to it, in the strength of the Lord. O that all men +knew the comfort and happiness of a mind devoted unto, and +firmly trusting in God in all things!</p> + +<p>When we made known our determination to Jonathan +and his son Jonas, and told them, that we had maturely considered +the subject committed by them to us, and that, in +answer to our prayers, the Lord had convinced us, that, not +having obtained the aim of our voyage, we should proceed, +Jonas, at first, seemed not quite satisfied, but our excellent +captain, Jonathan, without hesitation replied: “Yes, that +is also my conviction! We will go whither Jesus directs +us. He will bring us safe to our journey’s end, and +safe home again.” We were, indeed, glad and thankful +that the Lord had inclined the heart of this man, who but +yesterday seemed to be quite dispirited, to take this resolution, +for much depended upon him, and the rest followed +him without difficulty. Indeed they all submitted to our determination +with a willing mind, and their expressions of +resignation affected us much.</p> + +<p>During the day, the men had been out a-hunting, when +Uttakiyok killed three reindeer, which occasioned great rejoicing, +and helped to make our people forget the frightful +scenes of yesterday. The country is full of black looking +rocks, between which reindeer-moss and berries grow in +plenty. The shore exhibited still many marks of the violence +of the storm.</p> + +<p>20th. We proceeded with a favourable wind at N.E. +Our course lay S.W. across a broad bay, then, after doubling +a point, across another bay of about the same breadth, +to an island <i>Allukpaluk</i>, which we passed on the right, and +<a name="page66"></a>on the left, another island, <i>Nipkotok</i>. At a considerable distance +a-head lay the islands <i>Pitsiolak</i>, opposite a headland +of the continent called <i>Tuktutok</i>.</p> + +<p>The sky had been from the morning cloudy, the wind became +unfavourable and violent, and about noon heavy rain +came on. Not being well able to proceed, on account of the +violence of the wind, we cast anchor on the west side of +<i>Pitsiolak</i>, about 2 P.M. but perceiving a thunderstorm +rising from the western horizon, with very black clouds, +threatening to drive us on shore if we remained at this anchorage, +we weighed as quickly as possible, and endeavoured +to get to the other side of the island.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile a most tremendous storm of thunder, lightning, +and rain overtook us. The claps of thunder followed the +flashes without interval, and the lightning seemed to strike +into the water close to our boat, while the wind carried the +spray into the air like smoke. Providentially we had +doubled the northern point before the worst came on, and +got to an anchor under shelter of the land. The storm passed +by swiftly, it grew calm, the sun broke out, and the weather +became uncommonly fine with us, though at a distance we +saw the black clouds, and heard the hollow murmuring of +the thunder for a long time.</p> + +<p>We now expected to have a comfortable night’s rest, but +it grew intensely cold, and again began to blow violently +from the west. The strong current and heavy swell brought +us into some danger, and the poor people, who were obliged +to remain on deck all night, suffered much from cold and +wet. When the tide was full, about midnight, the island +we had seen to the west nearly vanished, the greater part being +covered with water.</p> + +<p>21st. In the morning we again saw the skin-boat lying +upon a pretty high rock, and a tent pitched close to it. The +weather was calm, but the wind contrary. Our Esquimaux +<a name="page67"></a>made good use of this respite to refresh themselves after +the fatigues of the night with a hearty meal and a sound nap.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon we landed. The island Pitsiolak, which +forms two at high water, is low and flat, overgrown with +Empetrum and Rubus Chamœmorus, (<i>Akpik</i>-berries). +Quantities of driftwood float about the shores. The jasper +occurred here again. This island may be about four or five +miles long, and, at low water, is connected with other islands +to the north. By the help of our glasses we could perceive +woods on the continent, and the Esquimaux thought they +discovered the smoke of Indian fires. They are much afraid +of meeting these people. Bloody encounters occasionally +occur between them. The Indians come from the interior, +and from Hudson’s Bay, and are frequently seen near the +two principal rivers, George river and South river, towards +which we were going; but we met with none. Brother +Kohlmeister rather wished for it, as some of them are said to +understand English, and he was desirous of endeavouring +to bring them to a more peaceable disposition towards the +Esquimaux, by friendly conversation.</p> + +<p>22d. We found the skin-boat a great hindrance to us. +Without being obliged to take that in tow, we might have +kept at a greater distance from the shore, which would have +enabled us to get on more rapidly, and with greater safety. +On shore we found a great quantity of cubical pyrites in a +grey matrix. The Esquimaux are attentive to this mineral, +and have before now brought it to Okkak.</p> + +<p>23d. We proceeded at 6 A.M. and steered for the island +of <i>Saeglorsoak</i>. The islands called <i>Nocharutsit</i> lay on our +left. They are a group of numerous small islands, many of +which are overflowed at high water, extending W. and E. +towards the entrance of South river. Between these islands +and Akpatok, the sea is said to be clear of rocks, and the +water of sufficient depth for any ship entering from Hudson’s +<a name="page68"></a>Straits, and bound to the Koksoak, or South river; but no +ship durst, in our opinion, venture to approach the coast +of Ungava within twenty or thirty miles.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, the tide turning against us, and the wind +unfavourable, we were obliged to come to an anchor among +the islands. We had left the skin-boat behind, with Thukkekina, +Uttakiyok’s brother Annoray, and one of his wives, +to whom he had given his baggage in charge. The Esquimaux +wives are very punctilious, the first always maintains +the highest dignity, regulates the housekeeping, distributes +the provisions, and directs everything, as mistress of the family.</p> + +<p>Jonas went out in his kayak, and shot a seal. We saw +many, and fired at them, but got none. Whitefish were +likewise seen at a distance. Uttakiyok and David were out +in their kayaks, and joined us in the evening loaded with geese.</p> + +<p>On the turn of the tide we proceeded, and at ten P.M. +cast anchor among the Nocharutsits, under a pretty high +island, about three or four miles in circumference. All our +people remained on board during the night, which was calm +and pleasant.</p> + +<p>24th. David roused us about five o’clock, by firing at a +seal, which he killed. The women went on shore to cook +it with some geese. When they returned, we all breakfasted +on the contents of their pot.</p> + +<p>The Esquimaux want no books of cookery to manage +their kitchen affairs. The meat is boiled with the blood in +it, and the addition of some water. When it is sufficiently +done, that is, according the Ungava custom, when half warm, +the women take it out of the pot, and serve it up on a piece +of stone, if on shore, and on a piece of board, if at sea. Then +the person, who has caught the seal or game, proclaims with +great vociferation, that the <i>men</i> may come and sit down to +eat. Such exertion of voice, however, seems hardly <a name="page69"></a>necessary, +as the Esquimaux are very acute at hearing, when they +are invited to dinner. When the men have done, the women +sit down, having taken good care, beforehand, that their +share is secured. The Esquimaux customs never permit +men and women to sit down together at a meal.</p> + +<p>It sometimes happens among the heathen Esquimaux, +that several having had good success, one huntsman’s feast +is hardly over, before another proclaims the invitation to +his banquet. This is never suffered to pass unnoticed, while +the power of cramming down another morsel remains. Thus +they will continue eating, till they are scarcely able to +breathe, and then lie down to sleep off the effects of their +gluttony. Indeed their excessive voraciousness on such +occasions produces, especially after long fasting, all the +symptoms of drunkenness. They forget, under its sensual +influence, all moderation, and abandon themselves to the +most disgusting abominations.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon we steered W. by N. (wind N.E.), for +the cape of <i>Kernerauyak</i>, at the east side of the entrance of +the river <i>Koksoak</i>, (Sand river). Before we arrived at the +cape, we left some islands to the South, the largest of which +is again called <i>Kikkertarsoak. Saeglorsoak</i>, is a large flat +island, about eight or ten miles long, and its neighbourhood +very dangerous, on account of many sunken rocks. The +continent hereabouts is well wooded, and Indians are said +to be frequently seen in the interior. The mouth of the +Koksoak is seven or eight English miles broad: its shores +steep, but the rocks in general low, and covered with moss. +The Esquimaux say, that in the middle there is water +enough for any large ship, though the tides prevent any near +approach to the land. At sunset we came to an anchor at +the mouth of the river.</p> +</div> + +<br /> +<br /> +<hr noshade="noshade" size="4" width="20%" align="center" /> +<br /> +<a name="ch12"></a> +<a name="page70"></a> +<h3>CHAPTER XII.</h3> + +<div class="synopsis"> +<p>Sail up the river Koksoak. Transactions in that region. +Dangerous eddy. Meet Esquimaux. Address to them. +Their joy and eagerness to have Missionaries, resident +among them. Find a suitable situation for a settlement. +Description of the country.</p> +</div> +<div class="text"> +<p>A<small>UGUST </small>25th.—T<small>HIS</small> was the joyful day on which at last +we saw our hopes realized, and the principal aim of our +journey obtained. The sun rose beautifully, and announced +a delightful day. We were obliged to wait till seven A.M. +for the turn of the tide, before we could proceed up the +river. The estuary of the <i>Koksoak</i> lies, according to +an observation taken, in 58° 36' N. latitude, nearly the +same as Okkak. To the west the country is called by +the Esquimaux <i>Assokak</i>, the coast turning again W.N.W. +This river, therefore, seems to be at the most southern point +of the coast, George’s river entering the sea at 58° 52', consequently +more North.</p> + +<p>The Koksoak appeared to us to be about as broad as the +Thames at Gravesend, or the Elbe near Hamburg, and +the whole river, with its various windings, much resembles +the Thames for twenty-four miles upwards. Its depth is +sufficient for a ship thus far. Its general direction is from +the South. We reckoned it to be about 600 or 700 miles +from Okkak, and Killinek or Cape Chudleigh half way.</p> + +<p>Having proceeded five or six miles up the river, we came +to a small island, which we left on our right.</p> + +<p>We saw several sacks of blubber, a sledge, and some other, +<a name="page71"></a>articles lying on the beach, and Jonathan and Brother +Kmoch went in the small boat to discover the proprietors, +but found nobody there, to guard the goods.</p> + +<p>A little farther on is a point of land running out into +nearly the middle of the stream. The current sets very +rapidly round it, so as to form a dangerous eddy. Our boat +was seized, and twice turned quite round; the small boat +was whirled about several times, as she pushed through it. +The women on board our boat, on seeing this, set up a loud +scream; but Jonathan only laughed at their fears, and we +afterwards saw kayaks passing the eddy in perfect safety.</p> + +<p>Having doubled the point, we perceived several kayaks +approaching. The people in them shouted aloud for joy, +exclaiming, <i>Innuit, Innuit</i>! Men, Men! Some guns were +also fired in the boat, which were soon answered by some +fowling-pieces from the shore.</p> + +<p>We now saw three tents pitched on the bank, and hoisted +our colours, when we were incessantly hailed by the inhabitants. +There was a general cry of <i>Kuvè, Kuvè, Kablunaet, +Kablunaet!</i> Europeans, Europeans! from the men in the +kayaks, who, by all manner of gesticulations, expressed their +pleasure, brandishing their pautiks, (oars), and shouting +continually as they rowed alongside the boat. The women +on shore answered with loud acclamations.</p> + +<p>About one P.M. we cast anchor close to their habitations. +Fourteen families were here, among whom were some from +a distant district, called <i>Eivektok</i>. These had pitched their +tents farther up the river. <i>Arnauyak</i> was with them, a +man, with whom Brother Kohlmeister had become acquainted +some years ago, exceedingly regretted, that he had but +a few days ago left the place, to hunt reindeer on George’s +river. The children expressed their joy by running to and +fro on the strand, like wild creatures. </p> + +<p>At first, the people in the tents appeared rather shy, but +after accepting of some trifling presents, they became quite +<a name="page72"></a>communicative, and gave us some of their toys in exchange; +then walking round us, surveyed us narrowly, as if we were +a new species of animals. Most of them had never before +seen an European. Uttakiyok’s brother had joined them, +and already informed them of our arrival, without which +they would probably have been yet more alarmed at seeing +strangers, and hearing the report of fire-arms.</p> + +<p>They now invited all our people to dine with them, and +having heard that Brother Kohlmeister would like to taste +the flesh of a whitefish, a kettle was immediately placed on +the fire, and a large piece put in to boil. Brother Kmoch +meanwhile cooked a savoury soup of birds, and reindeer-flesh, +more fit for an European stomach. While dinner was +preparing, Brother Kohlmeister took a walk up the bank of +the river, and across some hills. As the families belonging +to <i>Eivektok</i> had their summer dwelling in that neighbourhood, +the Esquimaux, on perceiving that he had walked in +that direction, and fearing that the Eivektok people, seeing +him alone, might mistake him for an Indian, and shoot at +him, dispatched two men to bring him back. They missed +him, and he returned before them. He found our people +very pleasantly conversing with the heathen concerning the +aim of our journey, and the way of salvation. Even Uttakiyok +was thus engaged, explaining, as well as he could, the +cause of our living in Labrador: he exclaimed, “let us, +my friends, all be converted to Jesus.” He was heard with +peculiar attention, being considered as a captain among +them. In the evening we sang hymns in Jonathan’s tent. +The people all came and listened with much seriousness.</p> + +<p>26th. To-day the Eivektok families came in a skin-boat +down the river, to see us. They were full of astonishment, +but soon took courage, and handled us, to discover whether +we were made of the same materials with themselves. An +old man, <i>Netsiak</i>, addressed Brother Kohlmeister: “Are you +Benjamin? I have never seen you with my eyes, but at +<a name="page73"></a>Eivektok have heard your name often mentioned.” He +seemed to be a sensible man, and a captain among his tribe.</p> + +<p>We could not help remarking the difference between these +Esquimaux and their countrymen living on the same coasts +with our settlements. The former are very poor, and miserably +equipped, whereas the latter, by their intercourse with +us and other Europeans, have acquired many conveniences, +and are, by barter, well provided with what they want.</p> + +<p>27th. We proceeded farther up the river, accompanied by +most of the men, and some women, in their skin-boat, and +arrived at a bay, which, by the winding of the stream, appears +like a lake, surrounded on all sides with gently rising +grounds, well planted with wood of moderate size, chiefly +larch. Behind the wood are some low hills. We named +this place <i>Unity’s Bay</i>. There is here a very good place for +a Missionary settlement. A fine slope extends for about half +an English mile, bounded on each extremity by a hill, on +each of which we erected high signals. The land is even and +dry. Juniper, currants, and other berries, grow here in +abundance, and rivulets run out of the wood at a distance of +a few hundred paces from each other. The slope faces the +S.S.E. and we named it <i>Pilgerruh</i>, (Pilgrim’s rest). Brother +Kohlmeister made drawings of the situation.</p> + +<p>From our first arrival we had improved every opportunity +of making the Esquimaux acquainted with the chief aim of our +visit to this country, and addressed them both singly and in +companies. Nor were Jonathan and Jonas remiss in conversing +with them about the concerns of their immortal souls, declaring +to them the love of God our Saviour towards them. +We once met with Sybilla, Jonathan’s wife, seated with a +company of women, under the shadow of a skin-boat, set on +edge, exhorting them, with great simplicity and fervour, to +hear and believe the gospel.</p> + +<p>28th. Brother Kmoch landed with Jonathan, and spent +<a name="page74"></a>some hours in examining the banks of the river. On ascending +the first eminence, the view of the interior is in +general flat, with a few low hills, and ponds in some places, +full of wild geese. The timber in the woods hereabouts is +not large: we found none fit for masts. The largest trees +were not more than eight inches in diameter, and fifteen or +twenty feet high. They are chiefly larch and pines. In +some places we found them burnt or withered, and were +informed by the Esquimaux, that it was the effect of the +Indian’s fires. Indeed we saw several places where the Indians +had put up huts, and left sufficient vestiges of their +abode. Berries grow everywhere, and between the river +and the wood, the plain is chiefly covered with willows, +high grass growing between them, but these and the various +shrubs are so low, that a man can easily look over them. +In all directions we saw the tracks of reindeer, and there +is every appearance of its being a place much frequented +by these animals. Deeper in the wood, we found great +quantities of sorrel and other European plants. The woods +appeared very thick, and extended as far as the eye could +reach, often coming down to the edge of the river. The +Esquimaux say, that higher up, large timber is found. On +our return to the skin-boat we found ourselves pretty much +fatigued, and ready to partake of a supper, cooked by the +Esquimaux, consisting of ship’s biscuit, dried fish, and raw +whitefish blubber. The Esquimaux prevailed upon Brother +Kmoch to taste the latter, and he reported, that having once +overcome his aversion to it, its taste was sweet, like the +kernel of a nut, but heated his stomach like a hot posset.</p> + +<p>29th. Changeable and rainy weather prevented us from +going out much.</p> + +<p>30th. Our people, and with them the strange Esquimaux, +met for public worship. Brother Kohlmeister once more +explained to them our intention in coming thus far to visit +them. He addressed them to the following effect: “That +<a name="page75"></a>already, many years ago, many excellent people in the +country beyond the great ocean, had thought of them +with much love, and felt desirous that the inhabitants of +the Ungava country also might hear the comfortable +word of God, and be instructed in it: for they had heard +that the Esquimaux here were heathen, who, through +ignorance, served the Torngak, or evil spirit, and were +led by him into the commission of all manner of sin, that +they might hereafter be lost, and go to the place of eternal +darkness and misery. Out of love, therefore,” continued +the missionary, “they have sent us to you, and out of love +we have come to you, to tell you how you may be saved, +and become happy, peaceful children of God, being delivered +from the fear of death, which is now upon you all, +and have the prospect of everlasting joy and peace hereafter, +even by receiving the gospel, and turning to Jesus, +who is the only Creator and Saviour of all men. He +died for <i>your</i> sins, for <i>our</i> sins, and for the sins of all +mankind, as our surety, suffering the punishment we +deserved, that <i>you</i>, by receiving Him, and believing on +Him, might be saved, and not go to the place of eternal +darkness and pain, but to the place of bliss and eternal +rest. You cannot yet understand these comfortable +words of the gospel, but if it is your sincere wish to know +the truth of them, Jesus will open your ears and hearts, +to hear and understand them. These my companions +were as ignorant as you, but they now thank God, that +they know Jesus as their Saviour, and are assured +that through His death they shall inherit everlasting +life.”</p> + +<p>During this address all were silent and very attentive. +Some exclaimed: “O we desire to hear more about it!” +Old Netsiak, from Eivektok, said: “I am indeed old, but if +you come to live here, I will certainly remove hither also; +and live with you and be converted.”</p> + +<a name="page76"></a><p>When we put the question to them, whether they were +willing, that we should come and dwell with them, and instruct +them, they all answered with a loud and cheerful +voice. “<i>Kaititse tok, Kaititse tok!</i> O do come soon, and +live with us, we will all gladly be converted, and live +with you.” Jonathan and Jonas also bore ample testimony +to the truth of what we had spoken, and their words +seemed to make a deep impression on all their countrymen. +Uttakiyok was above others eager to express his wish that +we might soon make a settlement in the Ungava country. +Five of the fourteen families who mean to reside here next +winter, are from Eivektok.</p> + +<p>Farther inland, the river Koksoak widens considerably, +but consequently grows more shallow. The country is +pleasant, with wood, grassy plains, and gentle hills.</p> + +<p>31st. Having finished all our observations here, we +dropped down the stream to the place, where we had discovered +the first tents.</p> + +<p>In descending, as well as ascending the river, we saw a +great number of whitefish, and many seals. Reindeer are +numerous on both shores, both in summer and winter. All +the Esquimaux declared, that this was the best provision-place +in the whole country, and they consequently flock to +it from all parts every summer, frequently protracting their +stay during the winter. The greater number of those we +found here, purposed spending next winter in this neighbourhood. +The Esquimaux are prevented from making +this place their constant residence by their fear of the land-Indians, +which cause them to quit it sooner than they +otherwise would wish to do.</p> + +<p>We spared no pains to collect all the information we +possibly could obtain, on every subject relating to this +situation, both as to itself, and in reference to the possibility +of approaching it with a ship, as likewise respecting the +inhabitants of the Ungava country in general. It appeared +<a name="page77"></a>evident, that the place above described is the most eligible +for forming a missionary-settlement.</p> + +<p>We found it unnecessary to proceed to the Westward, by +the account given us by our worthy conductor Uttakiyok, +whose information hitherto we had always found correct, +and confidently to be relied on.</p> + +<p>He reported: 1. That farther West no wood is to be +found on the coast.</p> + +<p>2. That besides the two rivers Kangertlualuksoak and +Koksoak, they knew of no place where a ship might with +safety approach the land.</p> + +<p>3. That at this time we should probably find no inhabitants, +as they had all gone into the interior to hunt +reindeer.</p> + +<p>We therefore now considered the business committed to +us to be accomplished, and determined to return to Okkak, +thankful to God our Saviour for the many proofs of His +favour, and protection, experienced in the execution of our +commission.</p> +</div> + +<br /> +<br /> +<hr noshade="noshade" size="4" width="20%" align="center" /> +<br /> +<a name="ch13"></a> +<h3>CHAPTER XIII.</h3> + +<div class="synopsis"> + +<p>Return to Okkak.</p> +</div> +<div class="text"> +<p>S<small>EPTEMBER</small> 1st.—A<small>T</small> ten A.M. we fell down the river +with the ebb-tide, and about noon anchored near its mouth. +The Esquimaux showed great attachment to us, and could +hardly resolve to take a final leave. They called after us, +“Come soon again, we shall always be wishing for you.” +Several of them, and among them our friend Uttakiyok, +followed us in their kayaks to the mouth of the river.</p> + +<p>We erected here, on the promontory Kernerauyak, a board +with an inscription similar to that put up at George river, +but with the day of our departure inserted, viz. Sept. 1st, +<a name="page78"></a>instead of the day of our arrival, Aug. 7th. The same +solemnities took place as on the former occasion. Our +faithful pilot Uttakiyok, who had rendered us such important +and essential services, now took leave of us, as he +intends to spend the winter in this neighbourhood. He +repeated his assurance, that if we settled here, he would be +the first to join us, and to turn with his whole heart to God. +Not willing to be any longer incumbered with the skin-boat, +we added it to other useful articles given to Uttakiyok, as a +reward for his faithful attention to us. He was very highly +gratified, and thankful for this species of remuneration.</p> + +<p>2d. Left the Koksoak, called by us, <i>South river</i>, and +steered to the N. of <i>Kernerauyak</i> and <i>Kikkertorsoak</i>. In +the evening we cast anchor in an open road, among the +<i>Nachorutsit</i> islands, with fine weather.</p> + +<p>3d. Set sail at sun-rise, wind and tide in our favour, and +proceeded rapidly. About noon, however, a fog came on, +which obliged us to come to an anchor at <i>Pitsiolak</i>. When +it cleared up, we proceeded, steering between <i>Allukpalak</i> +and <i>Nipkotok</i>, and cast anchor in the open sea, near <i>Kernertut</i>, +where, on our first arrival, we encountered such +a tremendous storm. The night proved quite calm and +fair.</p> + +<p>4th. A gentle breeze brought us pleasantly as far as the +island <i>Nauyet</i>, at the mouth of the <i>Kangertlualuksoak</i>, +where we cast anchor, having performed the same voyage +in three days, which took us twelve on our former passage. +The distance may be about 100 English miles.</p> + +<p>5th. Landed, and erected a species of landmark, on the +highest point of <i>Nauyet</i>, as a ship entering the river must +keep near this island, the shore on the other side being very +foul. Contrary winds now obliged us to enter the bay, and +cast anchor in the same place where we had lain on the 9th +of August.</p> + +<p>6th. Storm and rain prevented our proceeding. <a name="page79"></a>The Esquimaux +went on shore, and pitched their tent. Of late +they generally spent the night on board the boat.</p> + +<p>7th. Wind at W. but a heavy swell from the sea prevented +our sailing. Our men went out to hunt, and Paul returned +in the evening with a deer.</p> + +<p>8th. Snow had fallen during the night, and the whole +country had the appearance of the middle of winter. We +dropped down with the ebb-tide, but were obliged to anchor +again near the entrance of the bay. When the tide turned +we proceeded, and, leaving <i>Kikkertorsoak</i> to the right, made +for cape <i>Kattaktok</i>, where we spent the night at anchor +among some low islands. The night was clear, and a comet +appeared N. by W.</p> + +<p>9th. Wind favourable and strong. We set sail at sun-rise, +and steered for <i>Uibvaksoak</i>, and so rapidly did our +boat make way through the waves, that we arrived there already +at four in the afternoon, passing swiftly by the Dragon’s +dwelling, (<i>Torngets</i>). A thunder-storm was approaching. +The wind, which felt quite warm, was in our +rear, and violent gusts assailed us now and then, which made +us shorten sail; yet the boat seemed to fly from island to +island. We were unable to find a safe anchorage till 8 P.M. +when it was already dark. We had sailed, in fourteen hours, +about 100 English miles, and were all completely wet with +the spray of the sea and frequent showers. Our Esquimaux +were obliged, in this condition, to lie down either on deck +or on shore.</p> + +<p>10th. Reached <i>Omanek</i>, about 40 or 50 miles sail.</p> + +<p>11th. Wind contrary, with much rain. We were confined +to our narrow cabin, and shut in all day, with a lamp +burning.</p> + +<p>12th. Clear weather: set sail at noon. In the afternoon +we were saluted by some shots from <i>Killinek</i> Esquimaux, +who were halting not far from the Ikkerasak, or straits, at +the entrance of which we cast anchor about 7 P.M.</p> + +<a name="page80"></a><p>13th. Though we wished to have some conversation with +the <i>Killinek</i> people, as they cannot often come to Okkak, +yet we thought it adviseable to lose no time, and, with the +ebb-tide, passed through the <i>Ikkerasak</i> in perfect safety. +When, about 1 P.M. the tide turned, we ran into a cove on +the south side, and at 5 P.M. anchored in the lagoon above +described, (<a href="#page43">See page 43</a>), the entrance to which will only +admit a boat.</p> + +<p>14th. Reached <i>Oppernavik</i>, where we first met Uttakiyok.</p> + +<p>15th. Set sail with a gentle breeze, which permitted us to +have our Sunday’s service on deck. The wind, however, +soon turning against us, we were compelled to return to our +former anchorage.</p> + +<p>16th and 17th. We were unpleasantly detained by wind +and rain, and on the latter day much snow fell.</p> + +<p>18th. Reached <i>Kikkertarsoak</i> about 1 P.M. Our men +went out in their kayaks, and returned in the evening with +three seals. The night was fair, with beautiful appearances +of the Aurora Borealis.</p> + +<p>19th. The morning was calm: some indications of approaching +storm made us anxious to proceed. We set out +early; but a fog coming on, we came again to an anchor off +a barren island. After staying here two hours, hoping for a +favourable change, Jonathan proposed to proceed, and +steered S.W. not knowing rightly where we were. On this +occasion, we could not help admiring the composure of the +Esquimaux. But having last night made a hearty meal of +the provisions they had acquired, they seemed to take things +easy, and thought it would all be right in the end. So it +turned out; for by and by we saw the continent, and kept +along shore, till we got to the promontory <i>Kakkeviak</i>, +where, on our passage, we had nearly suffered shipwreck. +(<a href="#page38">See page 38</a>). Here we cast anchor in a wide shallow bay, +and spent a quiet night. </p> + +<p>20th. The fog had dispersed, and the wind was <a name="page81"></a>favourable, +though shifting from W. to N.W.N. and N.E. At 7 +P.M. we reached <i>Kumaktorvik</i> and found good anchorage +close to the Esquimaux winter-houses; but we were disappointed +by finding them empty, the people being probably +out on the reindeer-hunt. There were four houses standing, +apparently not old, and the traces of eight others, situated +on a low point of land, well covered with grass, and +surrounded by high mountains.</p> + +<p>21st. Wind N.W. set sail by break of day; reached <i>Nennoktok</i> +about noon, and steered across <i>Sangmiyok</i> bay, for +the northern promontory in <i>Nachvak</i> bay. Sangmiyok bay +is full of breakers, and the sea running pretty high, they +appeared very distinctly. The wind dying away in the afternoon, +we got no farther than the steep rocks under which +we had spent the night of July the 18th, where we came to +an anchor. A heavy swell from the sea, and violent gusts +of wind assailing us in all directions from the mountains +gave us much uneasiness; but, by the protecting care of +God, we suffered no harm.</p> + +<p>22d. It blew hard from the N.W. and prevented our running +into Nachvak bay. Our situation being highly dangerous, +and the wind favouring our proceeding, we determined to +pass by Nachvak. But having sailed across the bay, our +captain found it impossible to proceed, and thought proper +to come to an anchor. The truth was, that he had left some +articles here in a cove, which he wished to secure. We +therefore went on shore, and found many fragments of the +bones of whales, whence we inferred that whales are sometimes +cast on shore in this place.</p> + +<p>23d. A heavy storm came on from the N.W. To-day +we caught the first cod-fish, which proved a very acceptable +change of diet for us and our people.</p> + +<p>24th. The morning was calm. Wind E. left the cove +and steered for Nachvak, and came, <i>accidentally</i>, to the very +place where Jonathan’s goods were deposited. Not <a name="page82"></a>perceiving +any Esquimaux on shore, Jonathan and Thukkekina +went up the bay in their kayaks in search of them. Meanwhile +<i>we</i> landed, and on the declivity of a hill found a great +quantity of green soapstone. In the evening Jonathan and +Thukkekina returned with ten other Equimaux, who rejoiced +to see us again.</p> + +<p>25th. Brother Kohlmeister was engaged all day with the +Esquimaux. Brother Kmoch went up the mountain, and +brought some fine specimens of steatite. </p> + +<p>26th. Wind strong at N.W. we set sail; but the wind +failing, we could not reach <i>Saeglek</i>, as proposed, but spent +the night in the open sea. It passed, however, without any +unpleasant occurrences.</p> + +<p>27th. The want of wind prevented our getting to-day as +far as the Saeglek islands. Having passed through a very +narrow Ikkerasak, with hardly sufficient depth of water for +so large a boat, we cast anchor near our former station at +<i>Kikkertarsoak</i>.</p> + +<p>28th. Wind cold and changeable, and towards evening +stormy.</p> + +<p>29th. Set sail about 6 A.M. with a strong wind at W. and +in the evening had reached <i>Kangertluksoak</i> islands.</p> + +<p>30th. It blew hard, with snow, and we were obliged to +spend the day shut up in our small cabin by lamp-light. +The land was covered with snow. We were detained here +very unpleasantly for three days, by the violence of the wind +and weather.</p> + +<p><i>October</i> 3d. We steered for the promontory of <i>Kaumayok</i>; +but the wind dying away, and at length turning to the +South, we could not gain any safe harbour, and were obliged +to tack about all night in the open sea. The weather, however, +was mild, and we had the advantage of moon-light.</p> + +<p>4th. At 7 A.M. we succeeded in passing the Northern +Ikkerasak near cape <i>Mugford</i> with the tide, and the wind +becoming fair, soon brought us among the Okkak islands. +<a name="page83"></a>About noon we doubled cape <i>Uivak</i>, and perceived Esquimaux +on shore, who ran up the hills, shouted for joy, and +gave us by signs to understand, that the ship (the brig +Jemima, sent annually with provisions to the settlements) +was still at Okkak.</p> + +<p>We cannot describe the inexpressible pleasure and gratitude +to God our Saviour which we felt, when we again +beheld the neighbourhood of Okkak, after an absence of +fifteen weeks. As soon as the captain descried our boat +approaching, he hoisted his colours, and fired some guns +to give notice of our arrival. As we were obliged to tack, to +gain the entrance to the harbour, he came to meet us in the +ship’s boat, and about one o’clock we landed. The Missionaries +and the Esquimaux met us with tears of joy and +thankfulness, when we all joined in praise to God, who had +so wonderfully kept His protecting hand over us during this +perilous voyage, and granted us to return home in safety.</p> + +<p>Our voyage lasted from the 24th of June to the 4th of +October, and we calculated it to be a distance of from 1200 +to 1300 miles.</p> +</div> +<div class="sig">B<small>ENJAMIN</small> G<small>OTTLIEB</small> K<small>OHLMEISTER</small>.</div> +<div class="sig">G<small>EORGE</small> K<small>MOCH</small>.</div> +<a name="bottom"></a> +<br /> +<div class="figure"> +<a href="images/2.jpg"><img width="414" height="400" src="images/1.jpg" alt= +"Map: The Northern Extremity of LABRADOR with UNGAVA BAY Explored by the +MISSIONARIES of the Unitas Fratrum in 1811" /></a> +</div> +<div> +<p> </p> +</div> +<hr noshade="noshade" size="4" width="100%" align="center" /> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE FROM OKKAK, ON THE COAST OF LABRADOR, TO UNGAVA BAY, WESTWARD OF CAPE CHUDLEIGH***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 15436-h.txt or 15436-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/5/4/3/15436">https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/4/3/15436</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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