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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Journal of a Voyage from Okkak, on the Coast
+of Labrador, to Ungava Bay, Westward of Cape Chudleigh, by Benjamin
+Kohlmeister and George Kmoch
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Journal of a Voyage from Okkak, on the Coast of Labrador, to Ungava Bay, Westward of Cape Chudleigh
+       Undertaken to Explore the Coast, and Visit the Esquimaux in That Unknown Region
+
+
+Author: Benjamin Kohlmeister and George Kmoch
+
+Release Date: March 22, 2005  [eBook #15436]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE FROM OKKAK, ON
+THE COAST OF LABRADOR, TO UNGAVA BAY, WESTWARD OF CAPE CHUDLEIGH***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Wallace McLean, Cluny, and the Project Gutenberg Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team from page images generously made available
+by the Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions
+(http://www.canadiana.org/)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this file which
+      includes a map of the region described.
+      See 15435-h.htm or 15435-h.zip:
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/5/4/3/15435/15435-h/15435-h.htm)
+      or
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/5/4/3/15435/15435-h.zip)
+
+      Images of the original pages are available through the Canadian
+      Institute for Historical Microreproductions. See
+      http://www.canadiana.org/ECO/ItemRecord/21002?id=fde620f29a76b4fe
+
+      Inconsistencies and irregularities in spelling in the original
+      text have been retained. The table of contents was created for
+      this eBook.
+
+
+
+
+JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE FROM OKKAK, ON THE COAST OF LABRADOR,
+TO UNGAVA BAY, WESTWARD OF CAPE CHUDLEIGH;
+
+UNDERTAKEN to Explore the Coast, and Visit the ESQUIMAUX in that
+Unknown Region
+
+by
+
+BENJAMIN KOHLMEISTER and GEORGE KMOCH
+
+Missionaries of the Church of the Unitas Fratrum or United Brethren
+
+London:
+Printed by W. M'Dowall, Pemberton Row, Gough Square, Fleet Street,
+for the Brethren's Society for the Furtherance of the
+Gospel Among the Heathen.
+And Sold By J. Le Febvre, 2, Chapel-Place, Nevils-Court, Fetter-Lane;
+L. B. Seeley, 169, Fleet-Street; Hazard And Binns, Bath;
+and T. Bulgin, and T. Lambe, Bristol
+
+1814
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE,
+
+&c. &c.
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+INTRODUCTION                                                   3
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+  Outfit. Opinions of the Esquimaux respecting the Voyage.
+  Description of the Company. Departure from Okkak. Arrival
+  at Nungorome.                                                6
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+  Departure from Nungorome Cove. Account of Solomon.
+  Drift-ice. Cape Mugford. Waterfalls from the Kaumayok
+  Mountains. Fruitless attempt to get out of the Ikkerasak,
+  or Straits.                                                 10
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+  Quit the Ikkerasak. Account of the Kaumayok Mountains, and
+  of Kangertluksoak. Public Worship on Sunday. Saeglek and
+  its Inhabitants described. The Missionaries visit the
+  Esquimaux at Kikkertarsoak.                                 14
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+  Departure from Saeglek. Fruitless attempt to reach
+  Nachvak. Retreat into Nullatartok Inlet. Slate Bay.
+  Detention on account of the Ice. Arrive at Nachvak.         20
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+  Reception at Nachvak. Description of the bay. The
+  Esquimaux manner of spearing salmon and trout. Christian
+  deportment of the Okkak and Hopedale Esquimaux. Jonas's
+  address to the Heathen. Love of music general among these
+  Indians. Departure from Nachvak. Danger in doubling the
+  North Cape. Arrival at Sangmiyok bay.                       27
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+  Pass Cape Nennoktok. Visit the Esquimaux families at
+  Kummaktorvik and Amitok. Description of an Esquimaux
+  travelling bed. Mountains seen at Ungava. Netsek seal
+  described. Greenland houses. Danger of being shipwrecked
+  near Kakkeviak.                                             33
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+  Arrival at Oppernavik. Account of Uttakiyok. His
+  perseverance in waiting for the arrival of the
+  Missionaries. Islands and bays between Kakkeviak and
+  Killinek. Danger in the ice at Ammitok. Want of fuel
+  supplied by robbing old graves.                             39
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+  Departure from Oppernavik. Pass the Ikkerasak of Killinek.
+  Whirlpools. The coast takes a southerly direction. Meeting
+  with Esquimaux from the Ungava country, who had never seen
+  an European. Anchor at Omanek. High tides. Drift-wood.
+  Double Cape Uibvaksoak. Distant view of Akpatok.            44
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+  Chain of black mountains. The Dragon's dwelling. Changes
+  occasioned by rise and fall of the tides, and dangers
+  attending them. Uttakiyok's superstitious customs.
+  Singular effect of the tide in the bay of Ittimnekoktok.
+  Arrive at Kangertlualuksoak bay and river. Its situation.
+  Transactions there.                                         50
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+  Further transactions in Kangertlualuksoak Bay. The
+  Esquimaux women frightened by reports of Indians. Ceremony
+  of taking possession of this new-explored country, as
+  belonging to the King of England, and of naming the river
+  George river. Leave the bay and proceed to Arvarvik.
+  Whales caught by the Esquimaux in the shallows. Storm at
+  Kernertut.                                                  56
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+  Doubts expressed by Jonathan and the other Esquimaux on
+  the expediency of continuing the voyage. Consultations.
+  Resolve to proceed. Thunder-storm at Pitsiolak. Account of
+  Indians. Esquimaux cookery and hunting feasts. Arrival in
+  the river Koksoak.                                          62
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+  Sail up the river Koksoak. Transactions in that region.
+  Dangerous eddy. Meet Esquimaux. Address to them. Their joy
+  and eagerness to have Missionaries, resident among them.
+  Find a suitable situation for a settlement. Description of
+  the country.                                                70
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+  Return to Okkak.                                            77
+
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+For these many years past, a considerable number of Esquimaux have been
+in the annual practice of visiting the three missionary establishments
+of the United Brethren on the coast of Labrador, OKKAK, NAIN, and
+HOPEDALE, chiefly with a view to barter, or to see those of their
+friends and acquaintance, who had become obedient to the gospel, and
+lived together in Christian fellowship, enjoying the instruction of the
+Missionaries.
+
+These people came mostly from the north, and some of them from a great
+distance. They reported, that the body of the Esquimaux nation lived
+near and beyond Cape Chudleigh, which they call Killinek, and having
+conceived much friendship for the Missionaries, never failed to request,
+that some of them would come to their country, and even urged the
+formation of a new settlement, considerably to the north of Okkak.
+
+To these repeated and earnest applications the Missionaries were the
+more disposed to listen, as it had been discovered, not many years after
+the establishment of the Mission in 1771, that that part of the coast on
+which, by the encouragement of the British government, the first
+settlement was made, was very thinly inhabited, and that the aim of the
+Mission, to convert the Esquimaux to Christianity, would be better
+obtained, if access could be had to the main body of the Indians, from
+which the roving inhabitants appeared to be mere stragglers.
+Circumstances, however, prevented more extensive plans from being put in
+execution; and the Missionaries, having gained the confidence and esteem
+of the Esquimaux in their neighbourhood, remained stationary on that
+coast, and, by degrees, formed three settlements, OKKAK, to the north,
+and HOPEDALE, to the south of NAIN, their first place of residence.
+
+In consequence of the abovementioned invitation, it became a subject of
+serious consideration, by what means a more correct idea of the extent
+and dwelling-places of the Esquimaux nation might be obtained, and a
+general wish was expressed, that one or more of the Missionaries would
+undertake the perilous task of visiting such places as were reported by
+the Esquimaux themselves to contain more inhabitants than the southern
+coast, but remained unknown to European navigators.
+
+The Synodal Committee, appointed for the management of the Missions of
+the United Brethren, having given their consent to the measure, and
+agreed with Brother Kohlmeister, by occasion of a visit paid by him to
+his relations and friends in Germany, as to the mode of putting it into
+execution, he returned to Labrador in 1810, and prepared to undertake
+the voyage early in the spring of 1811.
+
+For several years a correspondence had taken place between the
+Missionaries in Labrador and the Brethren's Society for the Furtherance
+of the Gospel, established in London, relating to the manner in which
+the voyage should be performed. Opinions were various on the subject;
+but it was at length determined, that a steady intelligent Christian
+Esquimaux, possessing a shallop, with two masts, and of sufficient
+dimensions, should be appointed to accompany one or two Missionaries,
+for a liberal recompence; and that the travellers should spend the
+winter at Okkak, to be ready to proceed on the voyage, without loss of
+time, as soon as the state of the ice would permit of it. Brother
+Kohlmeister proposed, in this view, the Esquimaux Jonathan, of Hopedale,
+and the brig employed to convey the annual supply of necessaries to the
+three settlements, was ordered to proceed first to Hopedale, partly with
+a view to this negociation. She arrived safe with Brother Kohlmeister at
+this place, on the 22d July, 1810. On the same day, he proposed to
+Jonathan the intended expedition, laid before him the whole plan, with
+all its difficulties and advantages, and found him immediately willing
+to undertake the voyage, and to forward its object by every means in his
+power.
+
+This was no small sacrifice on the part of Jonathan. An Esquimaux is
+naturally attached to the place of his birth; and, though he spends the
+summer, and indeed great part of the year, necessarily, and from
+inclination, in roving from one place to another in quest of food; yet
+in winter he settles, if possible, upon his native spot, where he is
+esteemed and beloved. This was eminently the case with Jonathan. He was
+a man of superior understanding and skill, possessed of uncommon
+presence of mind in difficulties and dangers, and at Hopedale considered
+as the principal person, or chief of his nation. But he was now ready to
+forsake all, and to go and reside at OKKAK, among strangers, having no
+authority or pre-eminence, and to undertake a voyage of unknown length
+and peril, from whence he could not be sure of a safe or speedy return,
+before the ice might set in, and confine him upon an unknown shore,
+during the whole of a second winter. There was, however, one
+consideration which outweighed every other in his mind, and made him,
+according to his own declaration, forget all difficulties and dangers.
+He hoped that the proposed voyage to visit his countrymen in the north
+would, in time, be a means of their becoming acquainted with the gospel
+of Christ, and partakers of the same blessings which he now enjoyed.
+This made him willing to accept of the call without any hesitation. Nor
+did he ever, during the whole voyage, forsake that generous principle,
+by which he was at first influenced, but his cheerful, firm, and
+faithful conduct proved, under all circumstances, most honourable to the
+character of a true convert to Christianity.
+
+Brother KOHLMEISTER being, after seventeen years residence in Labrador,
+complete master of the Esquimaux language, and deservedly beloved and
+respected both by Christians and heathens, and possessing an invincible
+zeal to promote their temporal and spiritual welfare, was a man
+eminently qualified to undertake the commission, and to conciliate the
+affections of unknown heathen. He had also previously made himself
+acquainted with the use of the quadrant, and with other branches of
+science, useful on such an occasion.
+
+Brother KMOCH, his companion, joined to other essential qualifications,
+great cheerfulness and intrepidity.
+
+All the parties having met at Okkak, in the autumn of 1810, the winter
+was partly spent in preparations for the intended expedition, and
+Jonathan's boat put into the best possible state of repair.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+  _Outfit. Opinions of the Esquimaux respecting the Voyage.
+  Description of the Company. Departure from Okkak. Arrival at
+  Nungorome._
+
+
+June 16, 1811.--The ice began to loosen in the bay of OKKAK, and to
+drive out to sea. On the 17th, the bay was quite cleared of it; but on
+the 18th, it returned, and seemed to preclude all possibility of setting
+out so soon as we intended. On the 19th, however, it left us entirely.
+
+20th. We were employed in hauling the boat to the edge of the water, and
+being floated by the tide, she came to anchor at six, P.M. She had been
+purchased by Jonathan, at Chateau-bay, and was about 45 feet long,
+twelve broad, and five deep, with two masts. We had furnished her with a
+complete deck, and divided her into three parts. The centre was our own
+cabin, into which all our baggage was stowed: the two other divisions
+were occupied by the Esquimaux. A small boat, brought from Lewis, was
+taken in tow.
+
+21st. We began to ship our provision and baggage: viz. six cwt. of
+ship's biscuit, sixteen bushels of pease, one cwt. of salt pork and best
+beef, (of which but a small portion was consumed, as we were generally
+well supplied with fresh provisions, procured by shooting), a firkin of
+butter, half cwt. of captain's biscuit, one cwt. of flour, two small
+barrels of gunpowder, one cwt. of large and small shot, half cwt. of
+tobacco, two eighteen-gallon barrels of ale, a few bottles of brandy,
+eighteen pounds of coffee, which was all consumed, coffee and biscuits
+being our usual repast; a case containing knives, wire, nails, &c. for
+barter, if necessary; kettles and other utensils. Besides that every man
+had his fowling-piece, we had four muskets in reserve. After bringing
+all on board, we had just room enough to sleep in our cabin.
+
+22d, was spent in conferring with our brethren, on various subjects
+relating to the voyage.
+
+23d. All the Esquimaux met at the chapel, and in the most affectionate
+manner, and with many tears, bid us and our company farewell. They were
+the more affected with grief on this occasion, as the greatest part of
+our own Esquimaux thought the voyage impracticable, and expected that we
+should all perish in doubling Cape Chudleigh, (Killinek) on account of
+the violence of the currents, setting round between the cape, and the
+many rocks and islands which stretch from it towards the north. Reports
+had likewise been circulated of the hostile disposition of the Esquimaux
+in the Ungava bay; and it was boldly asserted, that if we even got there
+alive, we should never return. An old conjuror, (Angekok), _Atsugarsuk_,
+had been particularly active in spreading these reports. We cannot deny
+but that they occasioned some apprehension in our own minds, but being
+fully determined to venture in the name of God, and trusting in His
+protection, we were thankful that they failed to produce the intended
+effect on Jonathan, our guide, and on the other Esquimaux, who were to
+go with us, and who all remained firm.
+
+When Jonathan was told that the Ungava Esquimaux would kill him, he
+generally answered: "Well, we will try, and shall know better when we
+get there:" and once, conversing with us on the subject, expressed
+himself thus: "When I hear people talking about the danger of being
+killed, I think: Jesus went to death out of love to us, what great
+matter would it be, if we were to be put to death in His service, should
+that be His good pleasure concerning us."
+
+24th. Having commended ourselves in prayer to the grace and protecting
+care of God our Saviour, and to the kind remembrance of our dear fellow
+missionaries, we set sail at two P.M.
+
+Our company consisted of four Esquimaux families: 1. _Jonathan_, and his
+wife _Sybilla_, both between fifty and sixty years old. He was esteemed
+one of the most skilful commanders on the whole coast of Labrador, and
+for many years has shown himself both able and willing to serve the
+missionaries in a variety of ways. The boat was his own property, and we
+considered him as the captain of the expedition. 2. _Jonas_, Jonathan's
+son, and his wife _Agnes_, about thirty years of age, both intelligent,
+clever Esquimaux; they had their five children with them; _Sophia_,
+twelve years old, _Susanna_, _Jonathan_, _Thamar_, and _Sybilla_, the
+youngest but half a year old. 3. _Paul_, and his wife _Mary_, very
+agreeable, sensible people, about twenty years of age. Paul is
+Jonathan's cousin, and a man of a very warm temper. In activity and
+skill, he was next to Jonathan. 4. _David_, and his mother _Rachel_, the
+first a hopeful young man of about twenty, and the latter a good-natured
+old woman, who had the care of our clothes and linen, and kept them
+clean and in good order. Besides these four families, we took with us a
+boy, _Okkiksuk_, an orphan, about sixteen, whom Jonathan had adopted,
+and who promised to reward the kindness of his guardian by his good
+behaviour. He was always ready to render us every service in his power.
+
+We were attended on the voyage by a skin-boat (or woman's boat) in which
+were _Thukkekina_ and his wife, and their adopted child _Mammak_, a boy
+twelve years old. Their age is about forty. The skin-boat was intended
+as a refuge, in case of any accident happening to our own boat, and was
+useful in landing, as we never brought the large boat close in shore.
+The first four families belong to Hopedale, Thukkekina and his wife to
+Okkak. They considered it as a great favour conferred on them to be
+permitted to accompany us. _Jonas_ and his family occupied the
+after-part, and the rest the fore-part of the boat. The wind was
+moderate, and due west. We lost sight of our habitations in about half
+an hour, behind the N.E. point of the island Okkak, called Sungolik.
+
+At three, passed Cape Uivak, a cape on the continent, forming a
+moderately high headland, and the nearest place to Okkak, where
+Esquimaux spend the winter. Two or three winter-houses were standing.
+
+The wind failing, we cast off the skin-boat, which rowed merrily a-head.
+Before us, between the islands to the east and the continent, we saw
+much drift-ice, and it required attention to avoid the large shoals, the
+wind coming round to the N.W. We cast anchor at NUNGOROME, a cove about
+ten English miles from Okkak, where we found several of our Esquimaux,
+who had here their summer-station. Several had come from Naujasiorvik
+and other places, on purpose to meet us, and once more to express their
+affection and best wishes for our safe voyage and return. Late in the
+evening, we met on a green spot, where Brother Kohlmeister delivered a
+short discourse and prayer, after which we retired to sleep on board the
+boat.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+  _Departure from Nungorome Cove. Account of Solomon. Drift-ice.
+  Cape Mugford. Waterfalls from the Kaumayok Mountains. Fruitless
+  attempt to get out of the Ikkerasak, or Straits._
+
+
+Nungorome is a cove on the south side of the Island Pacharvik. Between
+this island the main land is a narrow strait, so shallow that no whales
+can pass. The Esquimaux stretch their nets across, to catch seals,
+seeking shelter in it when the wind sets in from the open sea. They can
+only be taken in the night, and the greater part of those which frequent
+this coast are of the _Kairolik_ kind, a middle-sized animal, and of the
+_Ugsuk_, the largest species of the seal tribe, weighing sometimes from
+five to six cwt.
+
+The Esquimaux belonging to our congregation, who were at present
+stationed here, in tents, were _Moses_, _Samuel_, _Thomas_, _Isaac_,
+_Bammiuk_, and their families. _Solomon_, who has left our communion,
+was also here. He had formerly been a communicant member of Okkak
+congregation, but could not resist the temptation of going to the north
+to feast with the heathen Esquimaux, whenever they had caught a live, or
+found a dead whale. On such occasions he was seduced to commit many
+irregularities and sins, but always returned to us with a show of great
+contrition and repentance. After many relapses, he was informed, that
+this would do no longer, but that if he went again to these heathenish
+feasts, he would be excluded. He is a sensible, well-disposed man, and
+perceived the justice of the sentence; but his love of that species of
+amusement overcame all his good resolutions. He not only went again, but
+took also another wife; a step which, of course, excluded him from our
+fellowship. Yet he is very desirous that his children may receive a
+Christian education, and remain faithful to the precepts of the gospel.
+
+25th. Brother Kmoch rose at half past one in the morning, and suffering
+the rest to sleep on, got breakfast ready; he then fired his piece, by
+which Brother Kohlmeister and all the Esquimaux, young and old, were
+suddenly roused from their slumbers. Not one, however, regretted the
+unexpected interruption to their pleasant dreams, on beholding the sea
+quite free from ice, with a fine morning and fair wind; but after
+yawning, stretching, and shaking themselves as usual, the Esquimaux with
+great good humour got ready, and we set sail at half past three. Passed
+Pacharvik Island at four. Bammiuk and Solomon accompanied us as far as
+the North Ikkerasak (the Esquimaux name for a strait) between Cape
+Mugford Island, in 58 deg. N. latitude, and the mountains of Kaumayok.
+Their being in company retarded our progress, but in the sequel proved
+no disadvantage.
+
+About nine, we entered the straits, and perceiving at a distance much
+drift-ice a-head, cast anchor, and Brother Kmoch and Jonas landed on
+Cape Mugford Island. An Esquimaux, called _Niakungetok_, accompanied
+them to the top of an eminence, from whence the outer opening of the
+Ikkerasak was seen. They perceived the ice driving into it from the sea
+in such quantities as to threaten to close it up. Cape Mugford is an
+high island, extending far into the ocean, and the northern land-mark in
+steering for Okkak, _Kiglapeit_ promontory bearing south, and the
+Saddle-island appearing right before the entrance of the bay. On their
+return to the boat, the wind veered to the north, and we steered for a
+dwelling-place of the Esquimaux, about twenty miles from Okkak, called
+_Ukkuararsuk_. To our great joy the ice began now to drive out again to
+sea, and we resolved to go with it. A gentle S.W. wind brought us to the
+place, where we had before anchored, but we were now beset with large
+fields of ice, among which we tacked, till we had nearly cleared the
+straits, when the great quantity of surrounding ice, pressing upon us,
+prevented our making further attempts, and we, were compelled to work
+our way back with oars and boat-hooks.
+
+On Cape Mugford island we now discovered more Esquimaux, who by signs
+directed our course towards a convenient harbour, near their dwellings,
+which we reached in safety.
+
+The Esquimaux pitched their tents on shore, but we slept on board.
+
+The situation of this place is remarkably beautiful. The strait is about
+an English mile broad, and four or five in length. Both shores are lined
+with precipitous rocks, which in many places rise to a tremendous
+height, particularly on the Kaumayok side, from whence several
+waterfalls rush into the sea, with a roar, which quite fills the air.
+The singular appearance of these cataracts is greatly increased when
+illuminated by the rising sun, the spray, exhibiting the most beautiful
+prismatic colours. Below them huge masses of ice are formed, which seem
+to lean against the sides of the rocks, and to be continually increasing
+during the winter, but when melted by the power of a summer's sun, and
+disengaged by their weight, are carried off by the tides, and help to
+form floating ice-mountains. The coast lies S.W. by N.E.
+
+26th. Being detained here by the state of the ice, and the weather fine
+and warm, Brother Kmoch and Ogiksuk rowed across the straits to the
+nearest great cataract, and were able, notwithstanding the steepness of
+the ascent, to get pretty close to it. It falls fifty or sixty feet
+perpendicular, and the noise is terrible. The spray ascending from it,
+like the steam of a huge cauldron, wetted the travellers completely.
+They amused themselves some time by rolling large stones into the fall,
+which by its force were carried along towards the sea, down the sloping
+torrent below. Our people meanwhile caught three seals, and made a
+hearty meal, of which we also partook, hunger, on this occasion,
+overcoming our dislike to seal's flesh. A sallad of scurvy-grass was
+made for supper.
+
+27th. We left this harbour about four A.M. with a favourable wind at
+West, but as it soon died away, we took to our oars, and reached the
+north point of Kaumayok, at the northern extremity of the strait. By an
+observation taken by Brother Kohlmeister, this point is situated in 57 deg.
+59' N. latitude. Though calm, there was a great swell from the sea, and
+the rolling of the boat affected our brave captain not a little, to the
+diversion of the other Esquimaux. About two P.M. the wind shifted to the
+N.W. By tacking we got to Kupperlik, about the middle of Kaumayok, but
+having the skin-boat in tow, could not weather the point, and were at
+length obliged to return to our former anchorage in the strait.
+
+28th. The wind being North we could not proceed. We therefore ascended
+the mountain of Cape Mugford. It is a barren rock, though here and there
+a solitary plant or a tuft of moss clings to its steep sides, and is
+difficult of access. The numerous waterfalls on the Kaumayok, which
+still rose above us, were full in view, and we now discovered several
+small lakes which supply them. Some of them fall from a great height
+perpendicularly into the sea.
+
+We could here discern the island of Okkak, to the S.W. to the East, the
+boundless ocean, and to the N.E. three high, barren, and steep islands,
+called Nennoktuts by the Esquimaux, (White mountains.)
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+  _Quit the Ikkerasak. Account of the Kaumayok Mountains, and of
+  Kangertluksoak. Public Worship on Sunday. Saeglek and its
+  Inhabitants described. The Missionaries visit the Esquimaux at
+  Kikkertarsoak._
+
+
+June 29th.--We rose soon after two o'clock, and rowed out of the
+Ikkerasak, with a fair wind. The sea was perfectly calm and smooth.
+Brother Kmoch rowed in the small boat along the foot of the mountains of
+Kaumayok, sometimes going on shore, while the large boat was making but
+little way, keeping out at some distance, to avoid the rocks. The
+outline of this chain of mountains exhibits the most fanciful figures.
+At various points, the rocks descend abruptly into the sea, presenting
+horrid precipices. The strand is covered with a black sand. At the
+height of about fifty feet from the sea, the rocks have veins of red,
+yellow, and green stone, running horizontally and parallel; and
+sometimes in an undulated form. Above these, they present the appearance
+of a magnificent colonade, or rather of buttresses, supporting a gothic
+building, varying in height and thickness, and here and there
+intersected by wide and deep chasms and glens, running far inland
+between the mountains. Loose stones above, have in some places the
+appearance of statues, and the superior region exhibits all kind of
+grotesque shapes. It is by far the most singular and picturesque chain
+of mountains on this coast. To the highest part of it we gave the name
+of St. Pauls, as it is not unlike that cathedral when viewed at a
+distance, with its dome and two towers.
+
+Before we left the Kaumayok, Brother Kohlmeister landed, and found the
+beach covered with blocks of stone, in colour white and grey, like
+statuary marble, but very hard. We now steered for _Kangertluksoak_, a
+winter-station of the Esquimaux, where several of our people had pitched
+their tents.
+
+At noon, we were off an island, called _Eingosiarsuk_, (the Little Cup),
+opposite the _Ittiplek_, (a flat piece of ground joining two headlands)
+over which the northern Esquimaux pass in sledges to Okkak, round
+Kaumayok. Farther towards the N.W. lies _Tuppertalik_, a high ridge of
+mountains, which, from its appearance, we called the Table mountain,
+having nearly the shape of the mountain so called at the Cape of Good
+Hope.
+
+To the north lies _Nellekartok_, the outermost island on leaving the
+Ikkerasak, and the first of the _Kangertluksoak_ islands. Behind
+_Tuppertalik_, a bay opens called _Nappartok_ (a wood), a
+winter-habitation, with a little wood higher up the country, about eight
+or ten hours drive from Okkak. A good harbour for large vessels is said
+to be here, called _Umiakovitannak_, (Broad boat-harbour). Before the
+entrance to _Nappartok_, lies an island, _Naujartsit_ (the Little
+Sea-gull island). Seven or eight miles, north of Nappertok, a long flat
+point runs out, terminated by a small island. On approaching towards
+Kangertluksoak, a long island runs parallel with the coast called
+_Illuektulik_, (a burial-place), between which and the main land is a
+strait, affording good shelter for boats. Into this Jonathan intended to
+run, but the wind being favourable, we kept on our course, and passed
+two islands, _Kingmiktok_, (Dog island), and farther north,
+_Kikkertarsoak_ a great island which defends the entrance into the
+harbour of _Kangertluksoak_, from the sea. At ten P.M. we came to an
+anchor in the harbour, and were received by our Esquimaux, of whom
+several families were stationed here, as well as by the other
+inhabitants, with demonstrations of great joy. Both the heathen who kept
+on the right side of the great bay, and our own Christian Esquimaux, on
+the left, fired numberless shots to welcome us. Several boats were here
+from _Kittinek_ and _Nachvak_ bound to Okkak.
+
+_Kangertluksoak_ lies about sixty miles north of Okkak, is an agreeable
+place, and has a good strand, and safe anchorage.
+
+30th. Being Sunday, the Missionaries went on shore, and visited all the
+Christian families, by whom they were received with the most lively
+expressions of affection and gratitude. Many strangers from the opposite
+coast had joined them, and they all seated themselves in a large circle
+on the grass.
+
+_Nikupsuk's_ wife, Louisa, who had long ago forsaken the believers, was
+here, and said, with much apparent contrition, that she was unworthy to
+be numbered with them. She then seated herself at a little distance from
+the rest.
+
+The number of the congregation, including our boat's company, amounted
+to about fifty. Brother Kohlmeister first addressed them, by greeting
+them from their brethren at Okkak, and expressing our joy at finding
+them well in health, and our hopes, that they were all walking worthy of
+their Christian profession, as a good example to their heathen
+neighbours. Then the Litany was read, and a spirit of true devotion
+pervaded the whole assembly.
+
+Our very hearts rejoiced in this place, which had but lately been a den
+of murderers, dedicated, as it were, by the angekoks, or sorcerers, to
+the service of the devil, to hear the cheerful voices of converted
+heathen, most melodiously sounding forth the praises of God, and giving
+glory to the name of Jesus their Redeemer. Peace, and cheerful
+countenances dwelt in the tents of the believing Esquimaux.
+
+Our people had caught a large white-fish, and pressed us much to be
+their guests, which we should have accepted of with pleasure, but we
+thought it prudent to avail ourselves of the favourable wind and
+weather, to proceed. Instead, therefore, of dining with them, we
+presented to each tent a quart of pease, which is considered by the
+Esquimaux as a great luxury, and was received with unbounded
+thankfulness.
+
+About noon we set sail, with a brisk wind at S.E. for _Saeglek_. The
+coast presents here, moderately high, barren mountains, without bays or
+islands. The wind becoming more violent, the rope, by which we kept the
+skin-boat in tow, suddenly snapt, and set her adrift. She was frequently
+hid from our view by the height of the waves, but we were in no
+apprehension about her, as these kind of boats are much safer in a high
+sea, than a European one.
+
+At seven P.M. we arrived at _Saeglek_, and were saluted by the firing of
+muskets and bonfires on the hills. The Esquimaux have their dwellings on
+a small flat island, between two of larger size, but the strand is bad,
+and full of sharp shingles. There are about five or six winter-houses at
+Saeglek, containing each about two or three families.
+
+July 1st. Early, two Esquimaux men, _Joas_ and _Uiverunna_, came in
+their kayaks to pay us a visit. They, with their families, inhabited
+some tents we had seen yesterday. Brother Kohlmeister spoke seriously to
+them on the necessity of conversion, especially to Joas, who had
+Christian parents, and as a child, was baptized at Okkak. He reminded
+him of his having been devoted to Jesus from his birth; that he
+therefore ought not to belong to the unbelievers, but to Him who had
+created and redeemed him; and that the greatest of all the sins he now
+committed, was his persisting in his determination not to return. He
+seemed to listen with some humility to the loving and earnest reproof
+and exhortations of the Missionary, but at last excused himself by
+laying the blame upon his mother, who kept him back, adding, that he
+still intended to be converted.
+
+Our people had meanwhile made a fire, and put the pot on to boil pease;
+but the wind changing, Jonathan determined immediately to proceed. The
+pease had just begun to swell, and as the two Esquimaux had presented us
+with some fresh meat, they had been asked to partake of our meal; but
+finding themselves thus disappointed, they fell to, and having greedily
+devoured a quantity of the half-boiled pease, and filled their gloves
+with the rest, they took leave, and set sail about 11, A.M.
+
+Hearing from some Esquimaux who made towards us in their kayaks, that
+the Saeglek people were all on the north side of the island of
+Kikkertarsoak, we proceeded thither, and having doubled the point, saw
+seven tents full of people. Two of them contained families from
+Killinek. But the violence of the wind was such, that we could not stay
+in this unsheltered place with safety. We therefore worked our way, with
+the help of the Esquimaux, round another point, into a roadstead, rather
+more sheltered than the former, though open to the sea. A little tobacco
+is the reward expected and given for such assistance.
+
+The beach is composed of numberless black pebbles, polished by the sea,
+and each about the size of an hen's egg.
+
+Brother Kohlmeister immediately landed, and visited the Esquimaux in
+their tents. Many heathen were at this place, to whom he preached the
+gospel, and invited them to believe in Jesus, as the Saviour of men, who
+would deliver them from the love, power, and curse of sin, having shed
+His blood, and died on the cross, to redeem their souls. He was heard
+with great attention. A venerable old man, with hair as white as wool,
+particularly attracted our notice. He called Brother Kohlmeister by
+name, took hold of both his hands, and begged him to sit down by him.
+Brother Kohlmeister inquired, whether he knew him. The old man replied:
+"Thou art Benjamin, often have I heard thy name at Okkak. I therefore
+rejoice to see thee." He seemed quite at a loss, what way to express his
+affection; and at length delivered a strap of seals'-leather to Mr.
+Kohlmeister, with these words: "I am poor, and have nothing else to give
+thee, yet I wish to give thee some token of my love." Brother
+Kohlmeister accepted of his present, and inwardly cried to the Lord, to
+show mercy to this poor ignorant heathen. "You are old," said he, "and
+have not much more time to live in this world, will you not turn to that
+Jesus, who has died for your sins also? It is not His desire that you
+should perish, and be lost in everlasting darkness, but that you should
+live with Him in the place of light and immortal bliss." The old man
+replied: "What shall I do? thy words are very pleasant, and I would fain
+hear much more of Jesus. I do not wish to be lost in the place of
+darkness." Brother Kohlmeister answered, that if he sincerely wished to
+be saved, and was troubled on account of his sinful life he should
+believe in, and call on the name of Jesus, who would certainly hear and
+reveal Himself unto him. Many people were present in the tent, who
+behaved with great decency, and whom Brother Kohlmeister earnestly
+addressed on the necessity of conversion. He wished to prolong the
+conversation especially with the old man, who promised, that he would
+never forget the words spoken to him, but it was growing late, and we
+returned to our cabin. The poor old man having sore legs, some medicine
+was left for him.
+
+The passage from Kangertluksoak to Saeglek is about twenty English
+miles. Saeglek is a considerable promontory, open to the south.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+  _Departure from Saeglek. Fruitless attempt to reach Nachvak.
+  Retreat into Nullatartok Inlet. Slate Bay. Detention on account
+  of the Ice. Arrive at Nachvak._
+
+
+July 2d.--At one A.M. we set sail, steering for _Nachvak_, a distance of
+about thirty miles. Here a chain of mountains runs north and south,
+nearly parallel with the coast. The coast itself is of moderate height,
+but very steep, and not being defended by any island, the approach to it
+as a lee-shore, is very dangerous. It runs generally in a pretty strait
+line about forty miles, when a wide bay opens, in which lies, towards
+the north, an island called _Karngalersiorvik_, where there is said to
+be a good harbour for boats. The rocks, of which the mountains are
+composed, are of a white grey colour, streaked almost perpendicularly
+with veins of black stone, about two feet broad. The intermediate strata
+may be about eight times as broad. We had hoped to reach Nachvak in the
+morning, by continuing our course through the following night, though
+the wind was weak and variable, but in the evening we got into
+drift-ice: yet as the shoals were not close together, we worked our way
+through them; and stood on with the little wind we had at S.E.
+
+3d. At dawn of day, and being still four miles distant from Nachvak, we
+perceived both in the open sea, and all along the shore, that our
+passage was completely occupied with floating ice, which drove towards
+us, and forced us back. We then endeavoured to find shelter in a bay
+bounded by high mountains, but found none, the wind driving the ice
+after us into it, and soon filling it. Jonathan frequently cried out
+with a plaintive voice: "Alas, alas, we shall soon be without a boat!"
+We now hastened to the opposite shore to find some cove or inlet, but
+getting more and more entangled among the ice, were at last obliged,
+some to land, and haul the boat with ropes round the points, and others
+with boat-hooks and spars, to keep her off the rocks. Two or three times
+she stuck fast on sunken rocks, but by God's mercy always got off again
+without damage. At length we discovered three narrow inlets, the
+middlemost forming a bay, being the estuary of a river, which runs
+W.S.W. about eight or ten miles up the country, and is called
+Nullatartok. Into this we pushed, when shortly after our entrance, the
+ice entirely filled up the passage, and we were compelled to retreat to
+the uppermost part, choosing the shallowest possible spot to anchor in.
+The bay itself is about two miles in breadth, and only in the middle
+deep enough to admit the larger fields of drift ice to float into it.
+The strand is broad, and slopes off gently. It is covered with large
+tables of slate. The mountains on each side are high, and seem to
+consist of ferruginous slate, the lamina or plates of which are of such
+immense size, that they might serve for entire walls. Towards the sea,
+there exudes from these rocks, a yellowish white substance, which has a
+strong sulphureous smell. It was so powerful, that if a drop fell on a
+piece of tinned iron, it removed the tin in a few minutes.
+
+The vallies in the neighbourhood were green and full of flowers.
+
+Not far from the spot where we had pitched our tents, (which rested upon
+a carpet of _potentilla aurea_, in full bloom, bringing to our minds the
+European meadows, full of butter-cups), the river, which is of
+considerable breadth, falls into the bay. It abounds with fine
+salmon-trout. Farther to the westward, two other rivers flow into it,
+one of which is much broader than the other, and has a large cataract at
+some distance from its mouth. The upper parts of the mountains are
+covered partly with moss, and partly with low brush-wood, birch, and
+alder, and many berry-bearing shrubs and plants, but no high trees. We
+found here both arnica and colts-foot in great plenty. Brother
+Kohlmeister gathered and dried a quantity of each, as they are used in
+medical cases, and the former cannot be procured from England.
+
+The slate is extremely shivery, and is found in slabs, either lying or
+standing upright from four to eight feet square, most easily splitting
+into thin plates. Ascending the mountain, they are soon dislodged, by
+the tread of a man's foot, and glide down towards the beach with a
+rattling, tinkling noise. At low water, we noticed a bed of stone
+resembling cast iron, of a reddish hue, and polished by the friction of
+the water. After supping on salmon-trout, caught in the first-mentioned
+river, we retired to rest; but had some fears even here for the safety
+of our boat, the ice pushing in towards us, and our people being
+employed day and night in warding off the large shoals with their
+boat-hooks.
+
+4th. The weather being fair, Brother Kmoch ascended to the top of the
+highest part of the mountain near us, from whence he could see nothing
+but drift-ice, powerfully in motion towards the bay. Four of our
+Esquimaux went up the country to hunt reindeer; saw eight head and two
+fawns; but got none.
+
+Perceiving that our abode in this place might be of some duration, we
+for the first time pitched our tents on shore. Our morning and evening
+devotion was attended by the whole party; and on Sundays we read the
+Litany, and conducted the service in the usual way, which proved to us
+and our Esquimaux of great comfort and encouragement in all
+difficulties. We were detained here, by the ice, from the 3d to the
+15th, and our faith and patience were frequently put to the trial.
+Meanwhile we found much pleasure in walking up the declivities of the
+hills, and into the fine green and flowery vallies around us.
+
+5th. We went up the western extremity of the bay, but found nothing
+worth notice. Here the rocks appeared to be of a species of freestone.
+
+6th. In the evening we met in Jonathan's tent. Brother Kohlmeister
+addressed the company, and reminded them, that to-day the holy communion
+would be celebrated in our congregations, which we could not do in this
+place, under present circumstances. Then kneeling down, he offered up a
+fervent prayer, entreating the Lord not to forget us in this wilderness,
+but to give us to feel His all-reviving presence, and to feed our hungry
+and thirsty souls, out of the fulness of His grace. A comfortable sense
+of His love and peace filled all our hearts on this occasion.
+
+In the evening, Paul began to read out of the Harmony of the four
+Evangelists, which we shall continue as often as circumstances will
+admit of it. Jonathan and Jonas generally conduct the daily morning and
+evening worship.
+
+7th. We were so hard pressed by the ice driving towards us, that we were
+obliged in part to unload the boat, to be able to bring it into a safer
+situation in shallow water; and took our turns, three relieving three,
+to watch and guard off the larger shoals with boat-hooks, by day and
+night. We were glad to have reached a place, sheltered on all sides from
+the wind.
+
+8th. Our people went out to look for reindeer, and no prospect of our
+proceeding to sea appearing, they resolved to stay out all night.
+
+9th. Jonas returned and reported, that they had seen reindeer, but were
+not able to shoot any. Paul and Thukkekina went to-day to the western
+mountains, and staid over night.
+
+10th. Brother Kmoch went to the westward to look for birds. He saw a
+large flight of sea-fowl, but they were extremely shy, and would not
+permit him to get near them. From the hills around us, we perceived that
+the entrance into the bay was completely blocked up with ice; and
+towards the sea, nothing but one continued field of ice appeared. We
+sighed and prayed to the Lord to help us in this time of need. Jonas
+went out in his kayak, and shot an _ugsuk_, not far from our tent.
+Towards evening, we saw a fire made by our reindeer-hunters, at the
+western extremity of the bay, and they fired their pieces to give us
+notice, that they had got some game, and that we should fetch it with
+the small boat.
+
+Okkiksuk therefore went, and found them completely overcome with
+fatigue, having dragged their game, across the mountains for a
+considerable distance. The Esquimaux are indeed able to carry burdens up
+and down hill, under which most Europeans would sink, but when they kill
+a deer far inland, it is hard-earned food, by the trouble of carrying it
+home. Paul had shot two reindeer, of which we received a portion.
+Brother Kohlmeister had been on the other side of the bay, and returned
+with a large parcel of plants and flowers, the examination of which
+afforded him much amusement.
+
+The Esquimaux now boiled a large kettle full of seal's flesh, of which
+we were invited to partake. This we did, and thought it a very palatable
+mess, particularly as we had tasted no fresh meat since we had left the
+North Ikkerasak. The prejudice of the Europeans against seal's flesh,
+consists mostly in imagination. The dirty kettle in which the Esquimaux
+boil it, is indeed not calculated to excite an appetite, but the meat,
+when eaten fresh, tastes much like beef; when cold, it acquires an oily
+taste; nor durst a person, not accustomed to it from his childhood, make
+a practice of eating it, as it is of a very heating nature, and would
+soon bring on serious disorders. It generally prevents sleep, if eaten
+at supper.
+
+12th. The wind became West, and cleared the bay of the ice. Brother
+Kmoch and Jonathan went to the opposite shore and found winter-houses,
+one of which had been inhabited last winter; two others were in ruins.
+They climbed the highest eminence towards Nachvak, but saw nothing but
+drift-ice, covering the sea, with but few spots of open water, to the
+north.
+
+13th. It blew hard from the West. David and Okkiksuk crossed the bay to
+explore the state of the ice from the hills. In the evening they
+returned with intelligence, that the sea was cleared of ice to the
+northward. David had caught a netsek, (a small species of seal), and we
+had taken a good draught of trout in the net before our tent.
+
+14th. Jonathan roused us at four in the morning, the wind being in our
+favour, and we immediately made preparations to depart. After breakfast,
+as we were praying the Litany, a sudden storm arose. We were assembled
+in Jonathan's tent, and the stones and pegs, with which it had been
+fastened down to the ground, being already removed, the tent-skins were
+soon blown about our heads by the violence of the wind, and we were now
+obliged patiently to wait till the storm abated. In the midst of our
+deliberations, accompanied with expressions of our disappointment,
+Thukkekina gravely observed, that we might very likely get away this
+summer, and need not be dismayed. Towards evening, it fell calm, and the
+musquitoes teazed us unmercifully. We supped on fresh salmon, filled our
+tents with smoke, to keep off our winged tormentors, shut ourselves in,
+and forgot our grievances and Thukkekina's consolations in sound sleep.
+
+15th. In the morning at three o'clock, we took a final leave of
+Nullatartok bay, and got under way with a favourable, though rather
+boisterous wind at S.W. having been detained here for twelve days by the
+ice. After about an hour's sail, we were near the entrance of the inlet,
+when a sudden gust from the mountains carried away our after-top-mast,
+with sail and tackle. It fell with great noise on the deck, and into the
+sea. By God's mercy no one was hurt, and we were more particularly
+thankful, that of the five children on board, none were just then on
+deck.
+
+It once happened, that the main-yard fell down, and but narrowly missed
+striking two children, who with a third were sitting and playing
+together. They must inevitably have lost their lives, had it fallen upon
+them. We praised God for their preservation during the whole voyage. By
+the above-mentioned disaster, we were obliged to run into a small cove,
+where we repaired the mast with all speed, and proceeded with a gentle
+wind towards Nachvak. A calm ensued, and as there is no anchorage
+between Nullatartok and Nachvak, we rowed all night, and felt the
+advantage of the great length of days, at this season of the year.
+
+16th. The view we had of the magnificent mountains of Nachvak,
+especially about sun-rise, afforded us and our Esquimaux great
+gratification. Their south-east extremity much resembles Saddle island
+near Okkak, being high, steep, and of singular shape. These mountains in
+general are not unlike those of Kaumayok for picturesque outline. In one
+place, tremendous precipices form a vast amphitheatre, surmounted by a
+ledge of green sod, which seemed to be the resort of an immense number
+of sea-gulls and other fowls, never interrupted by the intrusion of man.
+They flew with loud screams backwards and forwards over our heads, as if
+to warn off such unwelcome visitors. In another place, a narrow chasm
+opens into the mountain, widening into a lagoon, the surrounding rocks
+resembling the ruins of a large Gothic building, with the green ocean
+for its pavement, and the sky for its dome. The weather being fine, and
+the sun cheering us with his bright rays, after a cold and sleepless
+night, we seemed to acquire new vigour, by the contemplation of the
+grand features of nature around us. We now perceived some Esquimaux with
+a woman's boat, in a small bay, preparing to steer for Nachvak. They
+fired their pieces, and called to us to join them, as they had
+discovered a stranded whale. Going on shore to survey the remains of
+this huge animal, we found it by no means a pleasant sight. It lay upon
+the rocks, occupying a space about thirty feet in diameter, but was much
+shattered, and in a decaying state. Our people, however, cut off a
+quantity of blubber from its lips. The greater part of the blubber of
+this fish was lost, as the Esquimaux had no means of conveying it to
+Okkak.
+
+The Esquimaux stationed here showed great willingness to assist us; and
+as our party was much fatigued with rowing all night, they towed us into
+Nachvak, where we arrived about 2 P.M. Old Kayaluk and a young man,
+Parnguna, and his wife, were here. The latter called on Brother
+Kohlmeister, and thanked him for having saved her life. He had forgotten
+that he had once given her medicine at Okkak in a dangerous illness, but
+her gratitude was still unbounded.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+  _Reception at Nachvak. Description of the bay. The Esquimaux
+  manner of spearing salmon and trout. Christian deportment of
+  the Okkak and Hopedale Esquimaux. Jonas's address to the
+  Heathen. Love of music general among these Indians. Departure
+  from Nachvak. Danger in doubling the North Cape. Arrival at
+  Sangmiyok bay._
+
+
+July 16th.--After two or three hours sleep in our cabin, we went on
+shore. The Esquimaux, who had here a temporary station, about fifty in
+number, received us with every mark of attention. Loud shouts of joy
+resounded from all quarters, and muskets were fired in every direction.
+They could scarcely wait with patience for our landing, and when we
+pitched our tent, were all eager to assist; thus we were soon at home
+among them. Seven tents were standing on the strand, and we found the
+people here differing much in their manners from the people at Saeglek.
+Their behaviour was modest and rather bashful, nor were we assailed by
+beggars and importunate intruders, as at the latter place, where beggary
+seemed quite the fashion, and proved very troublesome to us. But we had
+no instance of stealing. Thieves are considered by the Esquimaux in
+general with abhorrence, and with a thief no one is willing to trade. We
+have discovered, however, that that propensity is not altogether wanting
+in the northern Esquimaux, who, now and then, if they think that they
+can do it without detection, will make a little free with their
+neighbour's property.
+
+The Esquimaux not only gave us a most hearty welcome, but attended our
+morning and evening prayers with great silence and apparent devotion.
+Indeed, to our great surprise, they behaved altogether with uncommon
+decorum and regularity during our stay.
+
+17th. Being detained with drift-ice at the mouth of the bay, we pitched
+our tent on shore. We examined the bay more minutely. It extends to the
+West to a considerable depth, and is not protected by any islands,
+except a few rocks, at some distance in the sea. The surrounding
+mountains are very high, steep, and barren, and verdure is found only in
+the vallies. Here the _arnica montana_, which the Missionaries have
+found of great use among the Esquimaux, grows in great abundance.
+Salmon-trout are caught in every creek and inlet.
+
+Like the salmon, they remain in the rivers and fresh-water lakes during
+the winter, and return to the sea in spring. The Esquimaux about Okkak
+and Saeglek, catch them in winter under the ice by spearing. For this
+purpose, they make two holes in the ice, about eight inches in diameter,
+and six feet asunder, in a direction from north to south. The northern
+hole they screen from the sun, by a bank of snow about four feet in
+height, raised in a semicircle round its southern edge, and form another
+similar bank on the north-side of the southern hole, sloped in such a
+manner as to reflect the rays of the sun into it. The Esquimaux then
+lies down, with his face close to the northern aperture, beneath which
+the water is strongly illuminated by the sunbeams entering at the
+southern. In his left hand he holds a red string, with which he plays in
+the water, to allure the fish, and in his right a spear, ready to strike
+them as they approach. In this manner they soon take as many as they
+want.
+
+The salmon-trout on this coast are from twelve to eighteen inches long,
+and in August and September so fat, that the Esquimaux collect from them
+a sufficient quantity of oil for their lamps. The immense abundance of
+these fish on all parts of the coast, would almost at any time save the
+Esquimaux from starving with hunger; but as seals furnish them both with
+food and clothing, it is of most consequence to them to attend to this
+branch of supply. At Hopedale and Nain, however, salmon-trout are caught
+only in the summer.
+
+We were much pleased with the behaviour of our own Esquimaux, during
+their stay at Nachvak. In every respect they conducted themselves, in
+word and deed, as true Christian people. Their conversation with their
+heathen countrymen, was free and unreserved, and "to the use of
+edifying." Jonathan and Jonas in particular, gave us great satisfaction.
+
+The people having assembled in Jonathan's tent, those who had no room in
+it, standing without and listening with great order and stillness,
+Brother Kohlmeister addressed them, explaining the aim of our voyage;
+that we were going, out of love to their nation, to the northern
+Esquimaux, and to those of Ungava bay, to make known to them the love of
+God our Saviour; and, by the gospel, to point out to them the way to
+obtain life everlasting. We knew that they were heathen, who, being
+ignorant of the way to God, were in bondage to the devil, and would be
+lost for ever, unless God had mercy upon them and sent them his word, to
+lead them to Jesus Christ their only Saviour, who shed His blood, and
+died on the cross to redeem their souls.
+
+They received the discourses and exhortations of the Missionary with
+reverential attention, but those of their own countrymen, with still
+greater eagerness, and we hope not without benefit. Jonas once addressed
+them thus; "We were but lately as ignorant as you are now: we were long
+unable to understand the comfortable words of the gospel: we had neither
+ears to hear, nor hearts to receive them, till Jesus, by his power,
+opened our hearts and ears. Now we know what Jesus has done for us, and
+how great the happiness of those souls is, who come unto Him, love Him
+as their Saviour, and know, that they shall not be lost, when this life
+is past. Without this we live in constant fear of death. You will enjoy
+the same happiness, if you turn to and believe in Jesus. We are not
+surprised that you do not yet understand us. We were once like you, but
+now thank Jesus our Redeemer, with tears of joy, that He has revealed
+Himself unto us," Thus, with cheerful countenances and great energy, did
+these Christian Esquimaux praise and glorify the name of Christ our
+Saviour, and declare, what he had done for their souls, exhorting the
+heathen likewise to believe.
+
+The above address seemed to make a deep impression on the minds of all
+present. One of their leaders, or captains, exclaimed with great
+eagerness, in presence of them all: "I am determined to be converted to
+Jesus." His name is _Onalik_. He afterwards called upon Brother
+Kohlmeister, and inquired, whether it was the same, to which of the
+three settlements he removed, as it was his firm determination to become
+a true believer. Brother Kohlmeister answered: "That it was indifferent
+where he lived, if he were only converted and became a child of God, and
+an heir of life eternal." Another, named _Tullugaksoak_, made the same
+declaration, and added: "That he would no longer live among the
+heathen."
+
+Though the very fickle disposition of the heathen Esquimaux, might cause
+some doubts to arise in our minds, as to their putting these good
+resolutions into practice, yet we hope, that the seed of the word of
+God, sown in this place, may not have altogether fallen upon barren
+ground.
+
+In the evening, our people met in Jonathan's tent, and sang hymns.
+Almost all the inhabitants were present. They afterwards spent a long
+time in pleasant and edifying conversation. It may here be observed,
+that the Esquimaux delight in singing and music. As to national songs,
+they have nothing deserving of that name; and the various collectors of
+these precious morsels in our day, would find their labour lost in
+endeavouring to harmonize the incantations of their sorcerers and
+witches, which more resemble the howlings of wolves and growlings of
+bears, than any thing human. But though the hymn and psalm-tunes of the
+Brethren's Church are mostly of antient construction, and, though rich
+in harmony, have no airy melodies to make them easily understood by
+unmusical ears, yet the Esquimaux soon learn to sing them correctly; and
+the voices of the women are remarkably sweet and well-tuned. Brother
+Kohlmeister having given one of the children a toy-flute, Paul took it,
+and immediately picked out the proper stops in playing several
+psalm-tunes upon it, as well as the imperfect state of the instrument
+would admit. Brother Kmoch having taken a violin with him, the same
+Esquimaux likewise took it up, and it was not long before he found out
+the manner of producing the different notes.
+
+18th. At 8 A.M. Brother Kohlmeister having delivered a
+farewell-discourse to the Esquimaux, (during which they were much
+affected), we took leave of these goodnatured people, and set sail with
+a fair and strong West-wind, but met with much drift-ice at the entrance
+of the bay. It made less way than our boat, and the wind becoming more
+violent, we found ourselves in an unpleasant situation. After tacking
+all day, and a great part of the night, the ice preventing our
+proceeding, and the wind, our returning to our former station, we were
+obliged to make for the Eastern point of the bay, where we at length
+succeeded in gaining a small cove, and cast anchor.
+
+Our situation was singular; the rocks rose in a semicircle around us,
+towering perpendicularly to an amazing height, like an immense wall.
+
+After a few hours stay, two Nachvak Esquimaux joined us, and prevailed
+on Jonathan to return to the tents, but we had scarcely reached the
+centre of the bay, before the violence of the wind drove us out to sea,
+and we were compelled to push for the northern promontory, from which
+all the ice had now retreated. Under the mountains we found shelter from
+the wind, which had by this time risen to a storm. It was late, and as
+it appeared dangerous to remain here, we rowed towards the point, but
+there beheld, with terror, the raging of the sea and dashing of the
+waves against the rocks, the spray flying like clouds into the air, and
+returned into smooth water, where, however, we were long in finding a
+place to anchor in. The night was spent quietly under shelter of the
+high rocks. They form the base of mountains higher than the _Kiglapeyd_,
+rise perpendicularly, in some places impending, with fragments,
+apparently loose, hanging over their edge, and forming all kinds of
+grotesque figures.
+
+19th. At sun-rise we still saw and heard the storm which threatened us
+with destruction, if we ventured to double the cape.
+
+At nine the wind abated, and we set sail, got safe round the point, and
+glided, with a gentle wind, into a broad, shallow bay, called Sangmiyok,
+full both of hidden and visible rocks, in which we cast anchor about
+five P.M. While Brother Kmoch superintended the concerns of the kitchen,
+Brother Kohlmeister and Jonathan went on shore, and to the highest
+mountain on the promontory. From the top of this mountain they could
+plainly discern the four principal headlands between Cape Mugford and
+Cape Chudleigh. The former situated in latitude 58 deg. N. the latter in
+61 deg. Between these are four promontories, in a line from S.E. to N.W.
+The first is _Uivak_, at the entrance into Saeglek Bay, outside of which
+a small island lies, in form of a pyramid or sugar-loaf. Next follow the
+two forming Nachvak Bay, another _Uivak_ to the south of _Nennoktok_,
+upon which we stood. The fourth is _Kakkeviak_, not far from Killinek,
+or Cape Chudleigh, in form of a tent, called in the charts _Blackhead_.
+_Nennoktok_ is called _False Blackhead_.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+  _Pass Cape Nennoktok. Visit the Esquimaux families at
+  Kummaktorvik and Amitok. Description of an Esquimaux travelling
+  bed. Mountains seen at Ungava. Netsek seal described. Greenland
+  houses. Danger of being shipwrecked near Kakkeviak._
+
+
+July 20th.--We proceeded with little or no wind, and taking to our oars,
+doubled the great Cape of Nennoktok. Here a strong swell from the sea
+met us, and tossed our boat violently about, and, having no wind, it
+drove us nearer to the shore than was perfectly safe. We remained about
+an hour in this unpleasant situation, when a breeze sprung up, which
+carried us out to the open sea among islands. It now began to rain very
+hard, and the wind rose. While Brother Kmoch was assisting the people on
+deck, Brother Kohlmeister had enough to do below, to keep peace among
+the furniture of our cabin, and sometimes found himself defeated in his
+attempts, pots and pans, and boxes, and every thing that was not a
+fixture, tumbling upon him. Several of our people were in the skin-boat,
+and the fury of the wind and sea would not permit them to come to our
+assistance. The weather also became so thick and foggy between the
+islands, that we were unable to see to any distance. Jonathan was
+therefore glad to have been yesterday on shore, when from the mountain
+he discovered the situation of the promontory, the coast, and the
+islands before us, and now contrived to steer in the proper direction.
+We soon found ourselves in smoother water, and among islands, where a
+vast number of seals and birds made their appearance. At six in the
+evening we reached _Kummaktorvik_, and came to an anchor.
+
+Having landed, Brother Kmoch shot a hare, close to the beach. These
+creatures are white in winter, and grey in summer, and in winter so
+numerous, that though, when roasted, they are excellent food, we were
+almost tired of them last year at Okkak.
+
+The rain continuing during the whole of the night and forenoon of the
+21st, we found it necessary by sufficient rest to strengthen ourselves
+for future watchfulness.
+
+An Esquimaux travelling bed consists of a large bag of reindeer-skin,
+with the hair turned inward, covered with seal-skin, the hair turned
+outward. It is furnished with a broad flap to cover the mouth, and a
+strap to fasten down the flap. This bag comprehends the whole apparatus
+and furniture of an Esquimaux bed-room. Having undressed, the traveller
+creeps into it, and a kind neighbour having shut him up close by
+fastening the strap, he leaves him to sleep on till morning, when he
+helps him out again. In summer the flap is dispensed with. The
+invention, however, is of European origin, and a luxury introduced by
+the Missionaries; for an Esquimaux lies down in his clothes, without
+further preparation.
+
+In the morning we landed, and had the usual Sunday's service with our
+people on shore; after which Brother Kohlmeister visited the Esquimaux
+in their tents, and had some religious conversation with them, to which
+they seemed to pay attention. Afterwards Kuttaktok, John, Nukkapiak, and
+Kajulik, with their wives, came to see us on board. They are the winter
+inhabitants of this bay. John was baptized in infancy at Okkak, but
+afterwards left the settlement, and not only associates with the heathen
+Esquimaux, but has even been guilty of murder. All of them, however,
+come occasionally to Okkak. They had two tents about four miles from our
+landing place.
+
+22d. The contrary wind forbidding our departure, Brother Kohlmeister,
+accompanied by Jonathan, Jonas, and Thukkekina, walked across the
+country to the N.W. bay, to return their visit. When they saw them
+coming at a distance, they fired their pieces, to direct them to the
+tents, and came joyfully to meet the Missionary and his party. Nothing
+could exceed the cordiality with which they received them. A kettle was
+immediately put on the fire to cook salmon-trout, and all were invited
+to partake, which was the more readily accepted, as the length of the
+walk had created an appetite, the keenness of which overcame all
+squeamishness. To do these good people justice, their kettle was rather
+cleaner than usual, the dogs having licked it well, and the fish were
+fresh and well dressed. To honour the Missionary, a box was placed for
+him to sit upon, and the fish were served up to each upon a flat stone
+instead of a plate. After dinner, Brother Kohlmeister, in acknowledgment
+for their civility, gave to each of the women two needles, and a small
+portion of tobacco to each man, with which they were highly delighted.
+
+All of them being seated, a very lively and unreserved conversation took
+place concerning the only way of salvation, through Jesus Christ, and
+the necessity of conversion. With John and his mother Mary, Brother
+Kohlmeister spoke very seriously, and represented to them the danger of
+their state, as apostates from the faith; but they seem blinded by
+Satan, and determined to persist in their heathenish life. The Esquimaux
+now offered to convey the party across the bay in their skin-boat, which
+was accepted. Almost all of them accompanied the boat, and met with a
+very friendly reception from our boat's company. In the evening, after
+some hymns had been sung by our people, Jonas addressed them and the
+heathen Esquimaux in a short, nervous discourse, on the blessedness of
+being reconciled unto God.
+
+Kummaktorvik bay runs N.E. and S.W. and is defended by some islands from
+the sea. It is about four or five miles long, and surrounded by high
+mountains, with some pleasant plains at their foot, covered with
+verdure. It's distance from Nachvak is about twelve miles. This chain of
+mountains, as will be hereafter mentioned, may be seen from
+Kangertlualuksoak, in Ungava Bay, which is a collateral proof, that the
+neck of land, terminated to the N. by Cape Chudleigh, is of no great
+width. Both the Nain and Okkak Esquimaux frequently penetrate far enough
+inland to find the rivers taking a westerly direction, consequently
+towards the Ungava country. They even now and then have reached the
+woods skirting the estuaries of George and South rivers.
+
+23d. We set sail at sun-rise, but the wind being too high to suffer us
+to proceed with safety, we again anchored in a commodious harbour in
+_Amitok_ island. Our people were here busily employed in repairing the
+damaged rigging and sails. Towards evening Jonas caught a seal, to the
+great gratification of our party. It was dressed immediately, and we
+joined them in their repast with a good appetite.
+
+The _Netsek_ is the only species of seal which remains during the winter
+under the ice. They form in it large caverns, in which they bring forth
+their young, two at a time, in March. More than one cavern belongs to
+one seal, that he may, if disturbed in the first, take shelter in the
+second. No other kind of seal is caught in winter by the Esquimaux.
+
+24th. Brother Kmoch rose at two, and went on shore to examine the island
+more minutely. The morning was beautiful, and the sun rose with great
+splendour. _Amitok_ lies N.W. from Kummaktorvik, is of an oblong shape,
+and stretches out pretty far towards the sea. The hills are of moderate
+height, the land is in many places flat, but in general destitute of
+grass. On the other side are some ruins of Greenland houses.
+
+The Esquimaux have a tradition, that the Greenlanders came originally
+from Canada, and settled on the outermost islands of this coast, but
+never penetrated into the country, before they were driven eastward to
+Greenland. This report gains some credit, from the state in which the
+abovementioned ruins are found. They consist in remains of walls and
+graves, with a low stone enclosure round the tomb, covered with a slab
+of the same material. They have been discovered on islands near Nain,
+and though sparingly, all along the whole eastern coast, but we saw none
+in Ungava bay. The rocks on Amitok contain large masses of a crumbly,
+semi-transparent garnet, of a reddish hue. (From some specimens sent
+out, it rather appears to be a rose red quartz, or beryllite).
+
+As it appeared as if we should be detained here, Brother Kmoch had made
+a fire, and was leisurely cooking a savoury mess of birds for breakfast,
+when Jonathan returned from the hills, with intelligence that the wind
+was abating in violence, and he therefore would proceed. The tent was
+struck, and all hurried on board: yet we had long to combat both an
+unfavourable wind and a strong current, which compelled us to double the
+East point of the island, and seek shelter among some small islands,
+steering for _Niakungu_ point. From hence we got the first sight of
+_Tikkerarsuk_, (the Esquimaux name for a low point stretching from the
+continent into the sea), of the island _Aulatzevik_, and the high
+promontory of _Kakkeviak_. The whole country to the west of _Niakungu_
+is called _Serliarutsit_. It fell calm as we doubled the point, and we
+took to our oars, and came to an anchor in an open bay, south of
+Tikkerarsuk.
+
+25th. At 6 P.M. we got under weigh with a fine S.E. wind, and made for
+the island of _Aulatzevik_, which is about the same size as an island of
+the same name, near Kiglapeyd. The passage between the island and the
+main is too shallow for an European boat like ours. The wind rising we
+sailed towards Kakkeviak at a great rate. To the right lay a chain of
+small islands called by the Esquimaux Pikkiulits, (the habitation of
+young eider-ducks). Having nearly doubled _Kakkeviak_ cape, we perceived
+two tents on shore, which occasioned loud rejoicings on board. They
+belonged to _Kumiganna_ of _Saeglek_, with his party, who being bound to
+Killinek, had promised to accompany us thither. The wind was very high,
+and the Cape encircled with numerous visible and invisible rocks, but
+there was a clear passage to the shore, keeping outside of the breakers.
+But whether from the violence of the wind, or from the eagerness with
+which our trusty captain wished soon to join his countrymen, he steered
+right through the midst of them, when suddenly the boat struck with
+great violence upon a sunken rock. The shock was so great, that all on
+board were thrown down, and every thing tumbled about. Poor Agnes,
+Jonas's wife, got a severe wound in her head. We immediately took in all
+our sails, and after hard labour, succeeded in pushing the boat off the
+rock. On examination we found that all was safe, and thanked God, with
+hearts filled with humble acknowledgments of His mercy, for preserving
+us from danger and death. The boat had struck in such a manner, that the
+keel, which was new and strong, being constructed of one solid piece of
+timber, sustained the whole shock. Had she taken the rock with her
+bottom, she would most likely have bilged, or upset, and it is a great
+question, whether our lives, but particularly the lives of the little
+children, could have been saved, the sea running very high. The
+skin-boat was thrown right over the rocks on shore, by the violence of
+the surf.
+
+Kumiganna soon came off in his kayak, and advised us to steer for the
+land right before us, where he thought we should find _Uttakiyok_; nor
+was there any safe anchorage in this place. We therefore took a young
+Esquimaux on board as pilot, and steered between the main land and the
+islands, for _Oppernavik_, twenty English miles off. Having left the
+skin-boat to follow us, we cut swiftly through the water, and soon
+reached the place of our destination.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+  _Arrival at Oppernavik. Account of Uttakiyok. His perseverance
+  in waiting for the arrival of the Missionaries. Islands and
+  bays between Kakkeviak and Killinek. Danger in the ice at
+  Ammitok. Want of fuel supplied by robbing old graves._
+
+
+When we arrived at Oppernavik, we found _Uttakiyok_, with his two wives
+and youngest brother, waiting to receive us. He and his family are from
+the Ungava bay, and had been upon the watch in this place during the
+whole spring. They welcomed us with shouts of joy, and firing of their
+pieces, and we had indeed the greatest reason to thank God, that he had
+sent us this man, to conduct us on our way to an unknown country, and
+through unfrequented seas.
+
+For this service Uttakiyok was eminently qualified, and without such a
+steady, faithful guide, we should have been wandering in the most
+painful and dangerous uncertainty in the desert regions to the West of
+Cape Chudleigh, where, on a coast of 100 miles in length, we did not
+meet with a single inhabitant. He was so anxiously intent upon meeting
+us, that he had erected signals on all the heights surrounding his tent,
+to prevent our missing him. Among his countrymen he is much respected,
+on account of his superior sense, and skill in all Esquimaux arts, and
+possesses great influence among them.
+
+_Uttakiyok_ was one of the two Esquimaux, from whom, in the year 1800,
+we received the first distinct information respecting the Ungava country
+and its inhabitants, by which the desire, excited both at home and here
+in Labrador, to visit the northern Esquimaux, was greatly strengthened,
+and led to a resolution, if possible, to take early steps to accomplish
+this object, (See page 3).
+
+Two years ago, he had been on a trading voyage to Okkak, from Killinek,
+where he then dwelt, and intended to return, in the summer following, to
+Ungava, his native country, but an illness, which befel his son,
+detained him. This intelligence was received at Okkak during last
+winter, when we sent him word, that as we purposed paying his countrymen
+a visit, we wished him to wait for us, that he might conduct us through
+the straits of Killinek. But having heard nothing further concerning
+him, we remained in uncertainty respecting his intentions. We were the
+more thankful to God, who had disposed the heart of this man cheerfully
+to accept of the commission, and wait to be our guide, an office which
+he performed with a degree of faithfulness and disinterested kindness,
+which claims our admiration and gratitude.
+
+While we were here waiting for a favourable opportunity to pass the
+straits, which were yet filled with ice, he behaved in the kindest
+manner to us and our Esquimaux. Though a heathen, he regularly attended
+our morning and evening worship, and declared to Jonathan, that he also
+intended to be converted to Jesus, and if we would form a settlement in
+his country, would come and live with us, and was sure, that many of his
+countrymen would do the same.
+
+Around his tent, a considerable extent of rock was covered with seal's
+flesh, and in the hollows were pools of oil. Ten bags of blubber were
+standing ready for sale; and with a view to shew him our good-will,
+Brother Kohlmeister bartered with him for three of them, which were hid
+under the stones, to take them with us, if practicable, on our return.
+
+26th. We put up our three tents; Uttakiyok's people had three more. Wind
+N.W. We were now near the entrance into the Ikkerasak, (or straits),
+which separate the island of Killinek and two or three other large
+islands from the continent. They stretch to the N. to the distance of
+about 12 or 15 English miles, the outer one forming Cape Chudleigh. To
+the N.W. of the cape lie some other small islands, called by the
+Esquimaux _Tutsaets_, and N.N.E. of these, the great island
+_Resolution_, called _Igloarsuk_, on which, as we were informed, many
+Esquimaux reside. The Tutsaets were discernible from this place, but not
+the latter, which however, as the Esquimaux say, may be seen from the
+Tutsaets. We guessed at its situation, from the clouds hanging over it
+in the North quarter. The weather was, as might be expected on the
+northern coast of America, foggy, rainy, and cold, and our small stove,
+which we brought into the tent, was of great use to us during our stay
+in this place.
+
+27th. Rain and wind violent, and prevented our proceeding. We caught
+some _Pitsiolaks_, (awks), and a brace of young puffins, which, with the
+addition of some salt meat, made excellent broth.
+
+28th. The weather was fair, but the wind still blowing hard at N.W.
+Brother Kmoch went to Uttakiyok's tent, and sitting down with him at the
+point of Oppernavik, and looking down the coast as far as Kakkeviak, got
+him to name all the bays, points, and islands, from Kakkeviak to
+Oppernavik, of which he made minutes. The distance between the two
+points or headlands may be guessed at, by the time of sailing with a
+strong leading wind, namely three hours and a half. Coming up from
+Kakkeviak, to the E. lie three islands, _Kikkertorsoak_, _Imilialuk_,
+rather less in view, and _Nessetservik_. Having passed these, there
+follows a chain of small, naked islands, not very high, stretching
+towards Killinek. To the W. near Kakkeviak lies _Uglek_; then a bay,
+_Nulluk_, and farther to the left another bay, _Tellek_, (right arm).
+The country along these bays is called _Attanarsuk_. Now follow the bay
+_Ikkorliarsuk_, the lower point of _Tikkerarsuk_, the bay _Annivagtok_,
+and _Kakkeviak_, a high promontory, (not to be confounded with the other
+Kakkeviak, where we struck on the rock. This promontory is only about
+four miles from Oppernavik to the S.E.). Then follow two small bays,
+_Anniovariktok_ and _Sangmiyok_, then the promontory _Ukkuliakartok_,
+(meaning a headland between two bays), and the bay _Tunnusuksoak_. Next,
+the last point on the continent, forming the south entrance to the
+Ikkerasak. The abovementioned chain of barren islands is called by the
+Esquimaux _Naviarutsit_, and besides them some low rocks, _Nuvurutsit_.
+The island of Killinek is about nine miles long, and five broad, high,
+and forming the north side of the straits. Another Ikkerasak, (or
+strait), divides it from an island called Kikkertorsoak, (a common name
+for an island), of considerable height, but not so long as _Killinek_:
+one, or perhaps more islands follow, narrowing E. and W. and forming
+Cape Chudleigh.
+
+To-day there was much ice both in the strait and at sea. We went to the
+nearest island, where Brother Kohlmeister took an observation, and found
+our situation to be 60 deg. 16'.
+
+30th. It blew a hard gale from the N.E., rained hard, and as the ice now
+began to enter our harbour, we were busily engaged in keeping it off the
+boat.
+
+31st. Imagining to-day that the straits would be free from ice, we
+resolved to attempt to pass them, and set sail. But it soon became
+evident, that there was still plenty of ice in the neighbourhood, and
+the wind setting to the N.E. with fogs, we were obliged to return.
+Suspecting also that the easterly wind would again drive the ice into
+our former harbour at Oppernavik, we ran into a short pass, between that
+and a small island called Ammitok, where we anchored under shelter of
+the island. The sequel proved, that we had for once acted with sound
+judgment and foresight, for our former anchoring-ground was soon filled
+with ice; and during the night large flakes entered even into our
+present place of refuge.
+
+_August_ 1st. At day break we found ourselves completely surrounded by
+floating ice, a strong N.W. wind driving the large shoals from the W.
+side of the little pass in which we lay, with much force towards us,
+insomuch that our boat was in the greatest danger of being crushed to
+pieces by them. We were all day long hard at work with poles,
+boat-hooks, and hatchets, to ward off the larger shoals, but when the
+tide fell, they hung upon our cables and anchors, of which we had three
+out, closing in also on all sides of the boat, so that we were every
+moment in fearful expectation of her being carried away, and our anchors
+lost, which would have reduced us to the most distressing situation.
+Indeed we all cried to the Lord to help us in this dangerous situation,
+and not to suffer us to perish here, but by His almighty aid, to save us
+and our boat. With great and unremitting exertions we had laboured all
+day, from the morning early, till seven in the evening, when the Lord
+heard our prayers, and sent relief. We now succeeded in working the boat
+out of the ice, the rising of the tide having opened a passage through
+it, just as we were almost exhausted with fatigue. It also became quite
+calm, and we felt as if we had passed from death to life.
+
+Having anchored again on the opposite side of the little pass or strait,
+we gave thanks to God, for the deliverance we had experienced through
+His mercy, in which our Esquimaux, young and old, most fervently joined.
+
+During our stay at Oppernavik, our whole stock of fire-wood was
+expended, and we were obliged to purchase of our companions, what they
+had to spare. We likewise robbed some old Esquimaux graves of the wooden
+utensils, which it is the superstitious practice of the heathen to lay
+beside the corpses of their owners, with old tent-poles, &c. and thus
+obtained fuel sufficient for our cookery.
+
+Wood will not decay by mere exposure to the air in Labrador, but wastes
+away gradually; and after forty or more years, the wood found at the
+graves is still fit for use.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+  _Departure from Oppernavik. Pass the Ikkerasak of Killinek.
+  Whirlpools. The coast takes a southerly direction. Meeting with
+  Esquimaux from the Ungava country, who had never seen an
+  European. Anchor at Omanek. High tides. Drift-wood. Double Cape
+  Uibvaksoak. Distant view of Akpatok._
+
+
+August 2d.--Having made all needful preparations for the voyage, a
+gentle but favourable wind, and occasional rowing, brought us, about
+nine in the morning, to the entrance of the much dreaded Ikkerasak. The
+weather was pleasant and warm, not a flake of ice was to be seen, and
+all our fear and anxiety had subsided. Our minds were attuned to praise
+and thanksgiving for the providential preservation we had experienced
+yesterday. We performed our morning devotions on deck, and all joined in
+a joyful hallelujah to God our Saviour, which was sweetly repeated by
+echoes among the mountains and precipices on either side. The
+scripture-text appointed in the Church of the United Brethren for this
+day being read, it seemed as if addressed particularly to us, separated
+as we felt ourselves, in these lonely regions, from the rest of the
+inhabitants of the earth: "_See now that I, even I, am He, and there is
+no God with me: I kill, and I make alive; I wound, and I heal._" Deut.
+32, 39. We rejoiced, that we were in the hands of a gracious and
+merciful God and Father, who would not forsake us, but deal with us
+according to his wonted mercy and favour.
+
+The Ikkerasak, (or strait), is about ten miles in length; the land on
+each side high and rocky, and in some places precipitous, but there
+appeared no rocks in the strait itself. The water is deep and clear. Its
+mouth is wide, and soon after entering, a bay opens to the left, which
+by an inlet only just wide enough to admit a boat, communicates with a
+lagoon of considerable magnitude, in which lies an island on its western
+bank. Beyond this bay, the passage narrows and consequently the stream,
+always setting from N. to S. grows more rapid. Here the mountains on
+both sides rise to a great height. Having proceeded for two miles in a
+narrow channel, the strait opens again, but afterwards contracts to
+about 1000 yards across; immediately beyond which, the left coast turns
+to the south. As the tide ebbs regularly with the current from N. to S.
+along the whole coast of Labrador, the current through the strait is
+most violent during its fall, and less, when resisted by its influx on
+rising.
+
+We were taught to expect much danger in passing certain eddies or
+whirlpools in the narrow parts of the straits, and were therefore
+continually upon the look-out for them. When we passed the first narrow
+channel, at 12 P.M. it being low water, no whirlpool was perceptible.
+Having sailed on for little more than half an hour, with wind and tide
+in our favour, we reached the second. Here, indeed, we discovered a
+whirlpool, but of no great magnitude at this state of the tide. Near the
+north-shore the water was, indeed, whirled round in the manner of a
+boiling cauldron of ten or twelve feet diameter, with considerable noise
+and much foam; but we passed without the smallest inconvenience, within
+thirty or forty feet of the outer circle. Our skin-boat, however, which
+we had in tow, with a man in it, was seized by the vortex, and received
+a rapid twist; but as the towing-rope did not break, she was immediately
+rescued from danger by the swiftness of our course, and the affair
+afforded us more diversion than anxiety. The motion of the water in
+these eddies is so great, that they never freeze in the severest winter.
+The ice being drawn towards them with great force, the largest shoals
+are carried under water, and thrown up again, broken into numerous
+fragments. The Ikkerasak is at that season utterly impassable for boats.
+The Killinek people inhabit an island to the right, after leaving the
+strait.
+
+When we quitted the Ikkerasak, and entered the ocean on the western side
+of Cape Chudleigh, it seemed as if we were transported to a new world.
+Hitherto the coast to our left had always taken a northerly direction.
+It now turned to the S.S.W. and is low, with gently sloping hills, the
+sea being full of small islands, abounding in sea-fowl.
+
+To the N. and N.W. we saw the open sea in Hudson's Straits, which,
+compared to the turbulent Atlantic, seemed calm and peaceful. We sailed
+briskly amidst the islands, and overtook the inhabitants of Saeglek,
+whom we had seen at Kakkeviak, where they had got the start of us. The
+wind being favourable, we did not hail them, but kept on our course. We
+now saw with pleasure the Ungava country to the South before us, but had
+first to pass the low point of _Uivarsuk_, the bay of _Arvavik_, in
+which the people from Saeglek had their summer stations, and the
+mountain _Omanek_, of moderate height, and surrounded by many small
+islets, called by the Esquimaux _Erngavinget_, (bowels). We now
+discovered three skin-boats full of people standing towards us from the
+shore. They were inhabitants of Ungava, and welcomed our approach with
+loud shouts of joy and firing their pieces, which was answered by our
+party. They followed us to Omanek, a round island rising like a loaf
+among the rest, where they pitched their tents on shore.
+
+Some of them had formerly dwelt in different places north of Okkak, and
+were known to the Missionaries in former times, the rest were perfect
+strangers. They declared their intention of coming over to the North of
+Okkak, to remain some time in that country, for the sake of trade. It
+has been mentioned, that some of the Ungava people have come to Okkak,
+and carry on a trade between their countrymen and that place. They are a
+kind of middle men, bring fox and bear-skins, and exchange them for
+European goods. These they carry back, and sell at a very advanced price
+in the Ungava country. They spend two years on such a trading voyage.
+
+Brother Kohlmeister visited the people in their tents. They were about
+fifty in number, men, women, and children. He informed them, that
+nothing could induce the Missionaries to come into this country, but
+love to the poor heathen, and an ardent desire to make them acquainted
+with their Creator and Redeemer, that through Him they might attain to
+happiness in time and eternity. Some seemed to listen with great
+attention, but the greater part understood nothing of what was said.
+This, of course, did not surprise us, as most of them were quite
+ignorant heathen, who had never before seen an European. They, however,
+raised a shout of joy, when we informed them, that we would come and
+visit them in their own country. Many were not satisfied with viewing
+us on every side with marks of great astonishment, but came close up to
+us, and pawed us all over. At taking leave we presented them with a few
+trifles, which excited among them the greatest pleasure and
+thankfulness.
+
+We recommend these heathen to the mercy of God, and pray, that the day
+may soon dawn, when the light of the saving gospel of Jesus may shine
+into their hearts.
+
+3d. Several of them came on board, once more to see us, and, in their
+way, to express their regard and gratitude. They also got some useful
+articles from our people, in exchange for their goods. We now set sail,
+passed a point called _Oglarvik_, and the bay _Takpangayok_, and arrived
+at _Tuktusiovik_, (a place where reindeer are seen), where we cast
+anchor for the night. Already at Omanek we had discovered a great
+difference between the rise and fall of the tides there and about
+Killinek. In the latter place it rose to four fathoms, but here still
+higher. The country looked pleasant, with many berry-bearing plants and
+bushes. There was, likewise, plenty of drift-wood all along the coast;
+not the large Greenland timber, but small trees and roots, evidently
+carried out of the great rivers of the Ungava by the ice. We had, of
+course, fire-wood enough, without robbing the graves of their
+superstitious furniture. Our Esquimaux pitched their tent on shore, and
+we supped with them on a mess of seal's flesh and eider-ducks. The
+musquitoes were extremely troublesome during our repast, after which we
+retired to sleep on board the boat.
+
+4th. Wind fair. We passed numerous low rocks; a point, by name unknown
+to Uttakiyok; the bay _Ikpigitok_, two miles broad, and the cape called
+_Uibvaksoak_, the northern boundary of the great bay or gulf of
+_Abloriak_. This cape is surrounded by many bare and sunken rocks, which
+caused us to stand out pretty far to the westward. While we were off the
+point, we descried, at a very great distance to the N.W. a large island,
+called by the Esquimaux _Akpatok_. They say, that it encloses the whole
+bay or gulf towards the sea, and consists of high land: also, that it is
+connected with the western continent at low water by an isthmus. The
+north coast of this island appears to be the line laid down in maps and
+charts as the coast of America, to the south of Hudson's Straits. But
+the district of Ungava is separated from the island by a large inland
+bay, extending southward to the 58 deg. N.L. North of Akpatok, the
+Esquimaux speak of islands well peopled by their countrymen, who have
+never seen Europeans.
+
+Having safely doubled the point or cape of _Uibvaksoak_, we came to an
+anchor near a small island to the south, where we spent the night.
+
+5th. Calm weather, and proceeded gently. About 9 A.M. the wind turned
+against us, and we ran into a small bay, about five miles from our
+former anchoring-place. Here we found the _Andromeda tetragona_ growing
+in tolerable quantity, on the banks of a lagoon of fresh water. The face
+of the country was unpleasant, with many steep rocks. On a precipice
+behind our tent we perceived nests of birds of prey. The naked rocks had
+singular shapes, and presented to the imagination the ruins of a
+destroyed town. In the vallies we saw many small lagoons, but little
+grass, and the excrements of geese. It was about full moon, and the tide
+rising here five or six fathom, occasioned the most strange alterations
+in the prospect towards the sea, which, being smooth and clear of rocks
+at high water, exhibited, after its fall, an archipelago of rugged
+islands and black flats.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+  _Chain of black mountains. The Dragon's dwelling. Changes
+  occasioned by rise and fall of the tides, and dangers attending
+  them. Uttakiyok's superstitious customs. Singular effect of the
+  tide in the bay of Ittimnekoktok. Arrive at Kangertlualuksoak
+  bay and river. Its situation. Transactions there._
+
+
+August 6th.--We crossed the bay _Abloriak_, which is large and wide,
+with many small islands and rocks towards the sea, and high black
+mountains inland, called _Torngaets_. Uttakiyok, who was always very
+eager to make us attentive to every object and its name, shewed us here
+a wide and deep cavern, in shape like the gable end of an house,
+situated at the top of a precipice, in a black mountain, of a very
+horrid and dark appearance. This, he informed us, was the dwelling place
+of Torngak, the evil spirit. The scenery was, indeed, extremely wild and
+terrible, and the beforementioned prospect of the rocks and islands at
+low water gave to the whole country a most singularly gloomy character.
+Nor is this change, occasioned by the tide in the state of the sea,
+merely in appearance terrific, it is so in reality: for we never durst
+cast anchor in less than eight or nine fathoms water, lest at ebb-tide
+we should find ourselves aground, or even high and dry.
+
+The cavern just spoken of, connected with the chain of black mountains
+in which it is situated, we called the Dragon's dwelling, but had no
+time to examine the place, though it did not appear inaccessible.
+Whether Uttakiyok would have ventured to accompany us into it, is
+another question, for he was, with all his good sense, strongly attached
+to the superstitious notions and ceremonies of his countrymen. Thus, on
+passing dangerous places he always hung the claw of a raven to his
+breast, and carried the blown paunch of a seal upon a tent-pole fixed to
+one side of his boat. The latter is a common practice among the northern
+Esquimaux, and probably considered by them all as a very efficient
+charm.
+
+We passed _Sioralik_, and many small and flat rocky islands: the bay
+_Issorkitok_, (a grassy place), a nameless headland; and the larger bay
+_Nappartolik_, (a woody country). The wood is said to commence at the
+interior point of this bay, and to continue throughout the whole of the
+Ungava country, which, as we afterwards discovered, extends to a
+considerable distance to the southward. Then follows _Tunnuyalik_, a
+point, or perhaps an island, on which lies a huge white stone, twenty or
+thirty feet high, by which it is distinguished from other similar
+headlands. A chain of low, flat islands, runs out into the sea to a
+considerable distance, and appearing at a distance as continued land,
+they are mistaken for a cape. Farther on is the bay _Ittimnekoktok_,
+where it grew dark before we found a suitable anchorage. The wind was
+high, and some of our company went on shore in the skin-boat, in order
+to pitch their tent, and spend the night.
+
+7th. On rising, to our great surprise, we found ourselves left by the
+tide in a shallow pool of water, surrounded by rocky hills; nor could we
+at all discover the situation of our skin-boat, till after the water had
+begun to rise, and raised us above the banks of our watery dungeon,
+when, with great astonishment, not having been able to find it on the
+surface of the sea, and accidentally directing our eyes upwards, we saw
+it perched upon the top of a considerable eminence, and apparently on
+shore. We then landed, and ascending a rising ground, beheld with some
+terror, the wonderful changes occasioned by the tides. Our course was
+visible to the extent of two or three English miles, but the sea had
+left it, and we were obliged to remain in this dismal place, till about
+noon, before the water had risen sufficiently to carry us out. We now
+began to entertain fears, lest we might not always be able to find
+proper harbours, so as to avoid being left high and dry at low water;
+for having anchored in nine fathoms last night, we were left in one and
+a half this morning. Uttakiyok and Thukkekina were with us on shore. The
+eminence on which we stood was overgrown with vaccinia and other plants,
+and we saw among them marks of its being visited by hares. Near the
+summit was a spot, covered with red sand, which stained one's fingers,
+and among it were fragments of a substance resembling cast iron. We
+seemed here to stand on a peninsula connected by an isthmus with another
+island, or with the continent; but probably at high water it may be a
+separate island.
+
+As soon as the tide would permit, we set out, and proceeded towards a
+cape called _Kattaktok_, surrounded by small islands. Between the cape
+and our anchoring place, we passed, on the left, the following objects;
+_Keglo_, a broad deep bay; _Katarusialik_, a headland, probably of the
+continent; _Ukkasiksalik_, (meaning a place where soap stone is found),
+a peninsula; and to the right of the latter place, an island,
+_Kikkertarsoak_, which lies at the entrance of the _Great Bay_, or
+estuary of the great river _Kangertlualuksoak_. We sailed with a strong,
+but favourable wind, with some rain, between the peninsula and the
+island; and not trusting to the depth of the water at ebb-tide, sent two
+kayaks forward to sound. They soon brought us into a good harbour, where
+we cast anchor about half past five P.M.
+
+_Kangertlualuksoak_ river was the spot to which we had principally
+directed our views. It lies about 140 miles S.S.W. of Cape Chudleigh. By
+an observation at its mouth its latitude appeared to be 58 deg. 57'. But we
+had no means of finding the longitude. At its entrance the bay runs
+rather S.S.E. for about ten or twelve English miles, then turns due S.E.
+for six or eight more, and after that S.W. At the second turn towards
+the S.E. there is the greatest quantity of wood, chiefly Larch, but of
+moderate size. We particularly noticed a fine slope facing the south,
+which appeared the most pleasant part of the bay, to which a vessel
+might approach and anchor with convenience, there being from 24 to 30
+fathoms water. We also imagined that the entrance from the sea would be
+free from obstructions, as no islands are seen in that direction.
+Uttakiyok likewise declared, that there was no bar or sunken rocks near
+the mouth of the bay.
+
+We found no inhabitants on our arrival, but on the 13th, a whole company
+of people from Killinek joined us.
+
+Our transactions in the bay of _Kangertlualuksoak_, from the 7th, are
+here noticed more in detail.
+
+_August_ 8th. We landed, and went in search of our people, who had spent
+the night in tents on shore. Okkiksuk accompanied us to the top of a
+hill, overlooking the bay _Ittimnekoktok_, where we had anchored the day
+before. We saw it quite dry, and full of large fragments of rock.
+Turning towards the land, we discovered some wood at a distance. The
+weather being calm and warm, the musquitoes were excessively
+troublesome. The vallies here are overgrown with verdure, and the hills
+pretty well clothed with moss, and berry-bearing plants; but we could
+not continue our walk, on account of the musquitoes, which persecuted us
+unmercifully, and drove us back to our tents. All our men were out, two
+on that side on which we had landed, and the others having crossed the
+bay in their kayaks, were employed in hunting reindeer. Jonathan only
+remained at home. In the afternoon he accompanied us in the small boat,
+to a hill, situated to the South of our station, at about two miles
+distant, where we landed, and went up the country, but found nothing
+much worth notice. We observed, that round the headland near us, the
+water was very rough, with eddies and whirlpools, occasioned by the
+rising of the high tides. On returning to our little boat, we found it
+aground. We therefore gathered some drift-wood, of which there was
+plenty, and made a good fire, at which we sat down and regaled ourselves
+with some biscuit and beer. Having pushed the boat into the water, we
+set out, but owing to the violence of the current had hard work to get
+to the great boat, and did not arrive till dark. Jonas saluted us from
+on board, by firing off his piece in token of success, and we found that
+he had got two, and his companion three reindeer, and a small black
+bear. The carcases were left at the tents, where part was cooked, and a
+mess brought to us on board, which proved an agreeable repast after our
+fatigue. Jonas and his family spent the night on board, the rest of the
+Esquimaux in their tents on shore.
+
+9th. Jonas having found a good harbour on the other side of the bay, and
+the current being here very strong, we sailed across and anchored there.
+The strand was even, and full of smooth rocks, above high water mark.
+The bottom of the bay is mud, and a slimy substance, covering all the
+stones and pebbles, left by the tide, makes walking very troublesome.
+
+The land is not high, but pleasant, covered with moss, with many small
+ponds, and marks of being frequented by reindeer.
+
+10th. We went farther up the bay in the skin-boat, with Jonathan,
+Uttakiyok, Thukkekina, Paul, David, and Okkiksuk. At a short distance
+from the place where we had landed yesterday, we came to a fine green
+terrace, overgrown with low shrubs and bushes, which delighted us much.
+From hence, a woody valley, extending to the left, seemed to invite us
+to take that course into the country, but we would not waste our time by
+examining it. On sailing farther up the bay, and turning round the
+abovementioned terrace, we came to a small inlet, dry at low water, on
+the left shore. Its banks were pleasantly covered with low bushes,
+interspersed with higher trees, and the place seemed to us very suitable
+for a settlement. From hence we perceived, at a short distance, on the
+opposite coast, a cape or headland, over which the tops of trees made
+their appearance. We sailed towards it, and found behind it a tract
+covered with low wood, chiefly larch and pine: on landing we saw the
+tracks of rein-deer, which had just left the spot. Jonathan, in an
+instant, ran like a young man for his gun, and with it into the wood. We
+followed him for two or three miles, but saw nothing but the track of
+the deer. The country inland seems in general level, with some low
+hills, and many ponds; without wood, but overgrown with rein-deer moss.
+No success attended our huntsman, and in the evening we met again in the
+boat. Brother Kmoch had kept up with Jonathan, and saw, among the
+bushes, the same kind of large partridge, or American wild pheasant,
+which is found about Okkak, but seems only to live in woods. It was a
+hen, with a covey of young birds, one of which which he caught,
+examined, and let go again, nor would he take or shoot the hen, out of
+compassion to the young brood.
+
+Brother Kohlmeister had meanwhile gone farther up the bay, and thought
+he had discovered the entrance of the river, but no fresh water
+appearing, we must still have been a great way off its influx into the
+bay.
+
+We now lighted a fire, boiled coffee, and cooked a dish of reindeer
+venison. The weather was warm, and the night fine and clear, but frosty.
+Having brought our travelling-beds with us on shore, (see page 34), we
+crept into them, and spent the night at the fire-side, the Esquimaux
+lying down anywhere about us. In the morning, the whole country was
+covered with hoar-frost, and the straw we had lain upon was frozen fast
+to the ground.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+  _Further transactions in Kangertlualuksoak Bay. The Esquimaux
+  women frightened by reports of Indians. Ceremony of taking
+  possession of this new-explored country, as belonging to the
+  King of England, and of naming the river George river. Leave
+  the bay and proceed to Arvarvik. Whales caught by the Esquimaux
+  in the shallows. Storm at Kernertut._
+
+
+August 11th.--We rose by break of day, and after breakfast, sailed
+across the bay, and landed at the second small inlet, with an intention
+of penetrating into the country, but the returning warmth of the weather
+by day, and the myriads of musquitoes we had to contend with, rendered
+us unable to execute our purpose.
+
+The Missionaries and Jonathan ascended a hill, from which a great tract
+of country might be overlooked. It was full of wood, as far as the eye
+could reach. Near the inlet some places seemed boggy, or covered with
+grass. From hence a valley stretched into the country, with a small lake
+in it, about two or three miles distant. Berries were every where in
+abundance. The summits of the hills had no wood upon them, but much
+reindeer-moss.
+
+On our return, being about a mile from our landing-place, we saw our
+skin-boat in the middle of the bay, and fired a gun as a signal for it
+to come to us. The Esquimaux had five rein-deer in the boat, which
+Uttakiyok had perceived on the opposite bank. He had followed them in
+his kayak, driven them into the water, and killed them there. When hard
+pressed, reindeer soon take to the water, and swim so well, that a
+four-oared boat can scarcely come up with them, but an Esquimaux, in his
+kayak will overtake them. They therefore, if possible, drive them into
+the water, being then sure of their game.
+
+After dining on part of the venison, we returned to the great boat. On
+the passage, we thought we perceived at a considerable distance a black
+bear, and Uttakiyok, elated with his recent success, hoped to gain new
+laurels. He entered his kayak and proceeded as cautiously as possible
+along the shore, towards the spot, landed, climbed the hill, so as not
+to be observed, but when he had got just within gun-shot, perceived,
+that his bear was a black stone. This adventure furnished the company
+with merriment for the remainder of the voyage to the boat, which we
+reached about six P.M.
+
+When we got on board the boat, we found that all the women had taken
+refuge in it, thinking that they had seen Indians onshore. The men
+therefore immediately landed, to take care of the forsaken tents. This
+was no doubt a false alarm, for we never discovered any traces of them
+during our stay. To the south of Hopedale the Indians and Esquimaux
+sometimes meet, but as the Hopedale Esquimaux seek to cultivate their
+friendship, quarrels and bloodshed seldom occur. In Ungava, however,
+though they often exchange tokens of friendship, they are apt to give
+way to their national jealousies; and provocations being aggravated,
+their meetings now and then terminate in murder. The Esquimaux are much
+afraid of the Indians, who are a more nimble and active race.
+
+12th. Having finished reconnoitring the neighbourhood, and gathered all
+the information concerning it, which our means would permit, and
+likewise fixed upon the green slope or terrace above described, as the
+most suitable place for a settlement, on account of the abundance of
+wood in its neighbourhood, we made preparations to proceed. Uttakiyok,
+who had spent more than one winter in the Ungava country, assured us,
+that there was here an ample supply of provisions, both in summer and
+winter, which Jonathan also credited, from his own observation. The
+former likewise expressed himself convinced, that if we would form a
+settlement here, many Esquimaux would come to us from all parts. We
+ourselves were satisfied that Europeans might find the means of
+existence in this place, as it was accessible for ships, and had wood
+and water in plenty. As for Esquimaux, there appeared no want of those
+things upon which they live, the sea abounding with whitefish, seals,
+sea fowl, &c. and the land with reindeer, hares, bears, and other
+animals. The people from Killinek declared their intention of removing
+hither, if we would come and dwell among them, and are even now in the
+habit of visiting this place every summer. Our own company even
+expressed a wish to spend the winter here.
+
+This being the day before our departure, we erected, on two opposite
+hills, at the entrance of the bay, high marks of stones, and on the
+declivity of a hill to the right, a board, into which we had cut an
+inscription, thus--
+
+[Illustration: In front,
+Georgius III. Rex.
+Societas
+Unitatis Fratrum.]
+
+[Illustration: At the back.
+Benjamin Kohlmeister,
+George Kmoch,
+Aug. 7, 1811.
+The day of our arrival.]
+
+We raised and fixed this tablet with some solemnity, in presence of
+Uttakiyok and his family, as representatives of the people of Ungava,
+and of our own company, and hoisted the British flag alongside of it,
+while another was displayed at the same time in the boat. We explained
+the cause of this ceremony to all present, to the following effect--
+
+"That we, on this day, raised this sign, in the name of our king, George
+III. the great monarch of all these territories, in testimony of our
+having explored it, and made choice of it, in case we or our Brethren
+should think proper to settle here. To which we called upon all present
+to bear witness." We then proclaimed the name of the Kangertlualuksoak
+to be henceforth _George River_, upon which every man fired his piece
+three times, the vollies being answered from the boat.
+
+The texts of scripture appointed for this day were then read, and we
+remarked how encouraging they were, as relating to the purpose, for
+which we visited these unknown regions:
+
+_From the rising of the sun, even to the going down of the same, my name
+shall be great among the Gentiles, saith the Lord of Hosts!_ Mal. 11, 1.
+
+_At the name of Jesus every knee shall bow, of things in heaven, and
+things in earth, and things under the earth; and every tongue shall
+confess, that Jesus Christ is Lord, to the glory of God the Father!_
+Philippians, 2, 10, 11.
+
+After the ceremony was over, we distributed some pease, bread, and beer
+among the Esquimaux, which enabled them to make a splendid feast, and the
+day was spent in the most agreeable manner.
+
+13th. We set sail, about six A.M. with a gentle breeze, which however
+soon fell away entirely, and obliged us to take to our oars. Near the
+mouth of the bay, we met several kayaks, coming towards us. They were
+Esquimaux from Killinek, who expressed regret at not having sooner heard
+of our being here; some came on board, and traded with our people. We
+presented them with a little tobacco, for which they were very thankful.
+
+In order to get well out of the bay, we first steered North, and then
+passed to the S.W. between a peninsula _Nauyat_, lying to the left of
+the entrance, and seven small islands and rocks on the right, towards
+the island of _Arvarvik_, about six or seven miles distant, where we
+were obliged to cast anchor in an exposed situation, the wind having
+become contrary. There was a strong swell during the night, which
+violently agitated our boat.
+
+_Arvarvik_ is about five miles in circumference. It is covered with the
+bones of whales, which the Esquimaux catch here in their kayaks. The
+coast is surrounded by a great number of small low islands, with deep
+pools between them. Into these the whales stray at high water, and at
+the ebbing of the tide, are prevented finding their way back again. The
+Esquimaux then pursue and kill them with harpoons. In the island are
+ponds of fresh water, and some low hills, overgrown with moss. A great
+number of sea-fowl, and also reindeer, are found upon it.
+
+On the shore we found great quantities of a red jasper, or iron-stone,
+the same which occurs throughout the coast, from _Killinek_ to South
+river, not as a stratum, but in lumps, and generally below high water
+mark.
+
+The Esquimaux who landed on the continent reported, that about two miles
+inland, there was much low wood.
+
+14th. We left our unpleasant anchorage, and returned to a place where
+the skin-boat had lain during the night, as it was sheltered from the
+South wind, which had risen considerably.
+
+15th. Our people went out to hunt reindeer, and returned in the evening
+with two. The wind shifted to the west, and blew with violence. We spent
+again an uneasy night.
+
+16th. Brother Kmoch went on shore and returned with a parcel of stones
+for examination. We now began to feel some anxiety on account of the
+great loss of time we were suffering here by contrary winds.
+
+17th. About eight o'clock we set sail, the wind having come round to the
+S.E. with a cloudy sky. We passed several nameless islands, at the
+distance of about a mile from the shore. In the afternoon, it began to
+rain hard, and after having sailed about twelve miles, we cast anchor
+near a long point of land, called _Kernertut_, by which we were
+sheltered from the wind, which had again turned to the South-west. The
+sky however was clear, and the beginning of the night pleasant, with
+beautiful appearances of the Aurora Borealis. Most of our people, and
+with them Uttakiyok, had gone in the skin-boat higher up the bay, but it
+was too shallow to admit of our following them. Only Jonas and his
+children, and the two boys Okkiksuk and Mammak, were left with us on
+board.
+
+During the night the wind veered round to the N.E. and blew a gale,
+which increased in violence till day-break.
+
+18th. The sea now rose to a tremendous height, such as we had never
+before experienced, and by the change of wind, we were exposed to the
+whole of its fury. The rain fell in torrents. We lay at three anchors,
+and the boat was tossed about terribly, the sea frequently breaking
+quite over her, insomuch that we expected every moment to be swallowed
+up in the abyss. With much difficulty we succeeded in lowering our
+after-mast. Jonathan and the rest of our company on shore, were obliged
+to be passive spectators of the dreadful scene, waiting the event in
+silent anguish. They quitted their tents, and came forward to some
+eminences near the beach, where, by lifting up their hands, and other
+gestures, they expressed terror, bordering on despair. Frequently the
+boat was hid from their view by the waves, which ran mountains high.
+They expected every moment that we should break loose from our anchors,
+and the boat be driven on the rocks. The length of our cables was here
+of the greatest advantage to us. About noon, the rope by which the small
+boat was fastened, broke. She was immediately carried up the bay, and
+thrown, by the violence of the surf, on the top of a rock, where she
+stuck fast, keel upwards. It was impossible to render us any assistance,
+till the tide turned, when the raging of the sea, and the wind, began to
+abate. As soon as it was practicable, Jonathan and the other men came to
+us in the skin-boat. He seemed quite overcome with joy, and, not able to
+utter a word, held out his hand, and shed tears of gratitude that he met
+us again alive, for he had given us up for lost.
+
+We now endeavoured to bring the great boat closer to the shore, landed,
+pitched our tent, and gave thanks to God for the merciful deliverance we
+had just experienced. Indeed all our people most fervently joined in
+praise to Him for the preservation of our lives. A warm dinner was soon
+prepared, by which we were much refreshed.
+
+As soon as the tide had ebbed sufficiently for it, our people went to
+the rock, on which the small boat lay, and got her into the water. To
+our great surprize we found, that she had received no material injury.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+  _Doubts expressed by Jonathan and the other Esquimaux on the
+  expediency of continuing the voyage. Consultations. Resolve to
+  proceed. Thunder-storm at Pitsiolak. Account of Indians.
+  Esquimaux cookery and hunting feasts. Arrival in the river
+  Koksoak._
+
+
+Jonathan and Jonas now became more and more anxious about our situation.
+They represented to us, that, if we attempted to proceed farther, we
+might probably be compelled to remain here the whole winter, as the
+stormy season was fast approaching. They added, that to _them_, it would
+be of little consequence, but that they were concerned on _our_ account.
+
+Though we had not said any thing as yet that might tend to shake the
+confidence of our party, yet we felt no small degree of perplexity
+concerning present appearances. During the six days since we left
+George's River, we had made little more than fourteen or fifteen miles,
+and were at least, as far as we could judge, seventy or eighty from the
+river _Koksoak_, which we had fixed upon as the final object of the
+voyage, being the outermost western boundary of the Ungava country.
+Insurmountable difficulties seemed now to present themselves, owing
+partly to contrary winds and cold weather, and partly to loss of time,
+for we had been already two months on the voyage, and had not yet
+obtained our aim: so that our return might be unseasonably late, if we
+proceeded. We could not possibly make up our minds to spend the winter
+here, as we had not a sufficient supply of provisions, and knew what
+distress it would occasion to our Brethren at Okkak.
+
+We felt quite at a loss what to do in this dilemma, and our path seemed
+enveloped in obscurity. We remembered, that "_to the upright there
+ariseth a light in the darkness_," (Ps. 112, 4): that is, to them who
+fear and trust in the Lord, and sincerely desire to know and do His
+will, He will reveal it. In His name we had entered upon this voyage,
+the only ultimate object of which was, the conversion of a benighted,
+neglected nation, in one of the remotest corners of the earth. We were,
+therefore, sure that He would not forsake us, nor leave us in
+uncertainty as to His will concerning us, but that He, "_whose eyes run
+to and fro throughout the whole earth, to shew Himself strong in the
+behalf of them whose heart is perfect towards Him_," (2 Chron. 16, 9.)
+was, even in this desolate region, present with us, and would hear and
+answer our prayers. Many comfortable texts of scripture occurred to our
+minds on this occasion, filling us with an extraordinary degree of faith
+and confidence in Him, particularly such as, "_He will be very gracious
+unto thee at the voice of thy cry; when He shall hear it, He will answer
+thee_," Isa. 30, 19. Also, Dan. 10, 19; Jer. 16, 21; Isa. 43, 2, &c. The
+mercies, also, which we had already experienced, excited within us a
+sense of the deepest gratitude and most firm trust; and we therefore
+told our people, that we indeed participated in their concern, would
+take the subject into serious consideration, and acquaint them with our
+determination on the morrow.
+
+19th. In the morning we met in our tent, where we were safe from the
+intrusion of the Esquimaux, to confer together upon this most important
+subject. We weighed all the circumstances connected with it, maturely
+and impartially, as in the presence of God, and, not being able to come
+to any decision, where reasons for and against the question seemed to
+hold such an even balance, we determined to commit our case to Him, who
+has promised, that "_if two of His people shall agree on earth, as
+touching any thing that they shall ask, it shall be done for them_,"
+(Matth. 18, 19.) and, kneeling down, entreated Him to hear our prayers
+and supplications in this our distressed and embarrassing situation, and
+to make known to us His will concerning our future proceedings, whether
+we should persevere in fulfilling the whole aim of our voyage, or,
+prevented by circumstances, give up a part, and return home from this
+place.
+
+The peace of God which filled our hearts on this memorable occasion, and
+the strong conviction wrought in us both, that we should persevere, in
+His name, to fulfil the whole of our commission, relying without fear on
+His help and preservation, no words can describe; but those who believe
+in the fulfilment of the gracious promises of Jesus, given to His poor
+followers and disciples, will understand us, when we declare, that we
+were assured, that it was the will of God our Saviour, that we should
+not now return and leave our work unfinished, but proceed to the end of
+our proposed voyage. Each of us communicated to his brother the
+conviction of his heart, all fears and doubts vanished, and we were
+filled anew with courage and willingness to act in obedience to it, in
+the strength of the Lord. O that all men knew the comfort and happiness
+of a mind devoted unto, and firmly trusting in God in all things!
+
+When we made known our determination to Jonathan and his son Jonas, and
+told them, that we had maturely considered the subject committed by them
+to us, and that, in answer to our prayers, the Lord had convinced us,
+that, not having obtained the aim of our voyage, we should proceed,
+Jonas, at first, seemed not quite satisfied, but our excellent captain,
+Jonathan, without hesitation replied: "Yes, that is also my conviction!
+We will go whither Jesus directs us. He will bring us safe to our
+journey's end, and safe home again." We were, indeed, glad and thankful
+that the Lord had inclined the heart of this man, who but yesterday
+seemed to be quite dispirited, to take this resolution, for much
+depended upon him, and the rest followed him without difficulty. Indeed
+they all submitted to our determination with a willing mind, and their
+expressions of resignation affected us much.
+
+During the day, the men had been out a-hunting, when Uttakiyok killed
+three reindeer, which occasioned great rejoicing, and helped to make our
+people forget the frightful scenes of yesterday. The country is full of
+black looking rocks, between which reindeer-moss and berries grow in
+plenty. The shore exhibited still many marks of the violence of the
+storm.
+
+20th. We proceeded with a favourable wind at N.E. Our course lay S.W.
+across a broad bay, then, after doubling a point, across another bay of
+about the same breadth, to an island _Allukpaluk_, which we passed on
+the right, and on the left, another island, _Nipkotok_. At a
+considerable distance a-head lay the islands _Pitsiolak_, opposite a
+headland of the continent called _Tuktutok_.
+
+The sky had been from the morning cloudy, the wind became unfavourable
+and violent, and about noon heavy rain came on. Not being well able to
+proceed, on account of the violence of the wind, we cast anchor on the
+west side of _Pitsiolak_, about 2 P.M. but perceiving a thunderstorm
+rising from the western horizon, with very black clouds, threatening to
+drive us on shore if we remained at this anchorage, we weighed as
+quickly as possible, and endeavoured to get to the other side of the
+island.
+
+Meanwhile a most tremendous storm of thunder, lightning, and rain
+overtook us. The claps of thunder followed the flashes without interval,
+and the lightning seemed to strike into the water close to our boat,
+while the wind carried the spray into the air like smoke. Providentially
+we had doubled the northern point before the worst came on, and got to
+an anchor under shelter of the land. The storm passed by swiftly, it
+grew calm, the sun broke out, and the weather became uncommonly fine
+with us, though at a distance we saw the black clouds, and heard the
+hollow murmuring of the thunder for a long time.
+
+We now expected to have a comfortable night's rest, but it grew
+intensely cold, and again began to blow violently from the west. The
+strong current and heavy swell brought us into some danger, and the poor
+people, who were obliged to remain on deck all night, suffered much from
+cold and wet. When the tide was full, about midnight, the island we had
+seen to the west nearly vanished, the greater part being covered with
+water.
+
+21st. In the morning we again saw the skin-boat lying upon a pretty high
+rock, and a tent pitched close to it. The weather was calm, but the wind
+contrary. Our Esquimaux made good use of this respite to refresh
+themselves after the fatigues of the night with a hearty meal and a
+sound nap.
+
+In the afternoon we landed. The island Pitsiolak, which forms two at
+high water, is low and flat, overgrown with Empetrum and Rubus
+Chamoemorus, (_Akpik_-berries). Quantities of driftwood float about the
+shores. The jasper occurred here again. This island may be about four or
+five miles long, and, at low water, is connected with other islands to
+the north. By the help of our glasses we could perceive woods on the
+continent, and the Esquimaux thought they discovered the smoke of Indian
+fires. They are much afraid of meeting these people. Bloody encounters
+occasionally occur between them. The Indians come from the interior, and
+from Hudson's Bay, and are frequently seen near the two principal
+rivers, George river and South river, towards which we were going; but
+we met with none. Brother Kohlmeister rather wished for it, as some of
+them are said to understand English, and he was desirous of endeavouring
+to bring them to a more peaceable disposition towards the Esquimaux, by
+friendly conversation.
+
+22d. We found the skin-boat a great hindrance to us. Without being
+obliged to take that in tow, we might have kept at a greater distance
+from the shore, which would have enabled us to get on more rapidly, and
+with greater safety. On shore we found a great quantity of cubical
+pyrites in a grey matrix. The Esquimaux are attentive to this mineral,
+and have before now brought it to Okkak.
+
+23d. We proceeded at 6 A.M. and steered for the island of _Saeglorsoak_.
+The islands called _Nocharutsit_ lay on our left. They are a group of
+numerous small islands, many of which are overflowed at high water,
+extending W. and E. towards the entrance of South river. Between these
+islands and Akpatok, the sea is said to be clear of rocks, and the water
+of sufficient depth for any ship entering from Hudson's Straits, and
+bound to the Koksoak, or South river; but no ship durst, in our opinion,
+venture to approach the coast of Ungava within twenty or thirty miles.
+
+In the afternoon, the tide turning against us, and the wind
+unfavourable, we were obliged to come to an anchor among the islands. We
+had left the skin-boat behind, with Thukkekina, Uttakiyok's brother
+Annoray, and one of his wives, to whom he had given his baggage in
+charge. The Esquimaux wives are very punctilious, the first always
+maintains the highest dignity, regulates the housekeeping, distributes
+the provisions, and directs everything, as mistress of the family.
+
+Jonas went out in his kayak, and shot a seal. We saw many, and fired at
+them, but got none. Whitefish were likewise seen at a distance.
+Uttakiyok and David were out in their kayaks, and joined us in the
+evening loaded with geese.
+
+On the turn of the tide we proceeded, and at ten P.M. cast anchor among
+the Nocharutsits, under a pretty high island, about three or four miles
+in circumference. All our people remained on board during the night,
+which was calm and pleasant.
+
+24th. David roused us about five o'clock, by firing at a seal, which he
+killed. The women went on shore to cook it with some geese. When they
+returned, we all breakfasted on the contents of their pot.
+
+The Esquimaux want no books of cookery to manage their kitchen affairs.
+The meat is boiled with the blood in it, and the addition of some water.
+When it is sufficiently done, that is, according the Ungava custom, when
+half warm, the women take it out of the pot, and serve it up on a piece
+of stone, if on shore, and on a piece of board, if at sea. Then the
+person, who has caught the seal or game, proclaims with great
+vociferation, that the _men_ may come and sit down to eat. Such exertion
+of voice, however, seems hardly necessary, as the Esquimaux are very
+acute at hearing, when they are invited to dinner. When the men have
+done, the women sit down, having taken good care, beforehand, that their
+share is secured. The Esquimaux customs never permit men and women to
+sit down together at a meal.
+
+It sometimes happens among the heathen Esquimaux, that several having
+had good success, one huntsman's feast is hardly over, before another
+proclaims the invitation to his banquet. This is never suffered to pass
+unnoticed, while the power of cramming down another morsel remains. Thus
+they will continue eating, till they are scarcely able to breathe, and
+then lie down to sleep off the effects of their gluttony. Indeed their
+excessive voraciousness on such occasions produces, especially after
+long fasting, all the symptoms of drunkenness. They forget, under its
+sensual influence, all moderation, and abandon themselves to the most
+disgusting abominations.
+
+In the afternoon we steered W. by N. (wind N.E.), for the cape of
+_Kernerauyak_, at the east side of the entrance of the river _Koksoak_,
+(Sand river). Before we arrived at the cape, we left some islands to the
+South, the largest of which is again called _Kikkertarsoak.
+Saeglorsoak_, is a large flat island, about eight or ten miles long, and
+its neighbourhood very dangerous, on account of many sunken rocks. The
+continent hereabouts is well wooded, and Indians are said to be
+frequently seen in the interior. The mouth of the Koksoak is seven or
+eight English miles broad: its shores steep, but the rocks in general
+low, and covered with moss. The Esquimaux say, that in the middle there
+is water enough for any large ship, though the tides prevent any near
+approach to the land. At sunset we came to an anchor at the mouth of the
+river.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+  _Sail up the river Koksoak. Transactions in that region.
+  Dangerous eddy. Meet Esquimaux. Address to them. Their joy and
+  eagerness to have Missionaries, resident among them. Find a
+  suitable situation for a settlement. Description of the
+  country._
+
+
+August 25th.--This was the joyful day on which at last we saw our hopes
+realized, and the principal aim of our journey obtained. The sun rose
+beautifully, and announced a delightful day. We were obliged to wait
+till seven A.M. for the turn of the tide, before we could proceed up the
+river. The estuary of the _Koksoak_ lies, according to an observation
+taken, in 58 deg. 36' N. latitude, nearly the same as Okkak. To the west
+the country is called by the Esquimaux _Assokak_, the coast turning again
+W.N.W. This river, therefore, seems to be at the most southern point of
+the coast, George's river entering the sea at 58 deg. 52', consequently
+more North.
+
+The Koksoak appeared to us to be about as broad as the Thames at
+Gravesend, or the Elbe near Hamburg, and the whole river, with its
+various windings, much resembles the Thames for twenty-four miles
+upwards. Its depth is sufficient for a ship thus far. Its general
+direction is from the South. We reckoned it to be about 600 or 700 miles
+from Okkak, and Killinek or Cape Chudleigh half way.
+
+Having proceeded five or six miles up the river, we came to a small
+island, which we left on our right.
+
+We saw several sacks of blubber, a sledge, and some other, articles
+lying on the beach, and Jonathan and Brother Kmoch went in the small
+boat to discover the proprietors, but found nobody there, to guard the
+goods.
+
+A little farther on is a point of land running out into nearly the
+middle of the stream. The current sets very rapidly round it, so as to
+form a dangerous eddy. Our boat was seized, and twice turned quite
+round; the small boat was whirled about several times, as she pushed
+through it. The women on board our boat, on seeing this, set up a loud
+scream; but Jonathan only laughed at their fears, and we afterwards saw
+kayaks passing the eddy in perfect safety.
+
+Having doubled the point, we perceived several kayaks approaching. The
+people in them shouted aloud for joy, exclaiming, _Innuit, Innuit_! Men,
+Men! Some guns were also fired in the boat, which were soon answered by
+some fowling-pieces from the shore.
+
+We now saw three tents pitched on the bank, and hoisted our colours,
+when we were incessantly hailed by the inhabitants. There was a general
+cry of _Kuve, Kuve, Kablunaet, Kablunaet!_ Europeans, Europeans! from
+the men in the kayaks, who, by all manner of gesticulations, expressed
+their pleasure, brandishing their pautiks, (oars), and shouting
+continually as they rowed alongside the boat. The women on shore
+answered with loud acclamations.
+
+About one P.M. we cast anchor close to their habitations. Fourteen
+families were here, among whom were some from a distant district, called
+_Eivektok_. These had pitched their tents farther up the river.
+_Arnauyak_ was with them, a man, with whom Brother Kohlmeister had
+become acquainted some years ago, exceedingly regretted, that he had but
+a few days ago left the place, to hunt reindeer on George's river. The
+children expressed their joy by running to and fro on the strand, like
+wild creatures.
+
+At first, the people in the tents appeared rather shy, but after
+accepting of some trifling presents, they became quite communicative,
+and gave us some of their toys in exchange; then walking round us,
+surveyed us narrowly, as if we were a new species of animals. Most of
+them had never before seen an European. Uttakiyok's brother had joined
+them, and already informed them of our arrival, without which they would
+probably have been yet more alarmed at seeing strangers, and hearing the
+report of fire-arms.
+
+They now invited all our people to dine with them, and having heard that
+Brother Kohlmeister would like to taste the flesh of a whitefish, a
+kettle was immediately placed on the fire, and a large piece put in to
+boil. Brother Kmoch meanwhile cooked a savoury soup of birds, and
+reindeer-flesh, more fit for an European stomach. While dinner was
+preparing, Brother Kohlmeister took a walk up the bank of the river, and
+across some hills. As the families belonging to _Eivektok_ had their
+summer dwelling in that neighbourhood, the Esquimaux, on perceiving that
+he had walked in that direction, and fearing that the Eivektok people,
+seeing him alone, might mistake him for an Indian, and shoot at him,
+dispatched two men to bring him back. They missed him, and he returned
+before them. He found our people very pleasantly conversing with the
+heathen concerning the aim of our journey, and the way of salvation.
+Even Uttakiyok was thus engaged, explaining, as well as he could, the
+cause of our living in Labrador: he exclaimed, "let us, my friends, all
+be converted to Jesus." He was heard with peculiar attention, being
+considered as a captain among them. In the evening we sang hymns in
+Jonathan's tent. The people all came and listened with much seriousness.
+
+26th. To-day the Eivektok families came in a skin-boat down the river, to
+see us. They were full of astonishment, but soon took courage, and
+handled us, to discover whether we were made of the same materials with
+themselves. An old man, _Netsiak_, addressed Brother Kohlmeister: "Are
+you Benjamin? I have never seen you with my eyes, but at Eivektok have
+heard your name often mentioned." He seemed to be a sensible man, and a
+captain among his tribe.
+
+We could not help remarking the difference between these Esquimaux and
+their countrymen living on the same coasts with our settlements. The
+former are very poor, and miserably equipped, whereas the latter, by
+their intercourse with us and other Europeans, have acquired many
+conveniences, and are, by barter, well provided with what they want.
+
+27th. We proceeded farther up the river, accompanied by most of the men,
+and some women, in their skin-boat, and arrived at a bay, which, by the
+winding of the stream, appears like a lake, surrounded on all sides with
+gently rising grounds, well planted with wood of moderate size, chiefly
+larch. Behind the wood are some low hills. We named this place _Unity's
+Bay_. There is here a very good place for a Missionary settlement. A
+fine slope extends for about half an English mile, bounded on each
+extremity by a hill, on each of which we erected high signals. The land
+is even and dry. Juniper, currants, and other berries, grow here in
+abundance, and rivulets run out of the wood at a distance of a few
+hundred paces from each other. The slope faces the S.S.E. and we named
+it _Pilgerruh_, (Pilgrim's rest). Brother Kohlmeister made drawings of
+the situation.
+
+From our first arrival we had improved every opportunity of making the
+Esquimaux acquainted with the chief aim of our visit to this country,
+and addressed them both singly and in companies. Nor were Jonathan and
+Jonas remiss in conversing with them about the concerns of their
+immortal souls, declaring to them the love of God our Saviour towards
+them. We once met with Sybilla, Jonathan's wife, seated with a company
+of women, under the shadow of a skin-boat, set on edge, exhorting them,
+with great simplicity and fervour, to hear and believe the gospel.
+
+28th. Brother Kmoch landed with Jonathan, and spent some hours in
+examining the banks of the river. On ascending the first eminence, the
+view of the interior is in general flat, with a few low hills, and ponds
+in some places, full of wild geese. The timber in the woods hereabouts
+is not large: we found none fit for masts. The largest trees were not
+more than eight inches in diameter, and fifteen or twenty feet high.
+They are chiefly larch and pines. In some places we found them burnt or
+withered, and were informed by the Esquimaux, that it was the effect of
+the Indian's fires. Indeed we saw several places where the Indians had
+put up huts, and left sufficient vestiges of their abode. Berries grow
+everywhere, and between the river and the wood, the plain is chiefly
+covered with willows, high grass growing between them, but these and the
+various shrubs are so low, that a man can easily look over them. In all
+directions we saw the tracks of reindeer, and there is every appearance
+of its being a place much frequented by these animals. Deeper in the
+wood, we found great quantities of sorrel and other European plants. The
+woods appeared very thick, and extended as far as the eye could reach,
+often coming down to the edge of the river. The Esquimaux say, that
+higher up, large timber is found. On our return to the skin-boat we
+found ourselves pretty much fatigued, and ready to partake of a supper,
+cooked by the Esquimaux, consisting of ship's biscuit, dried fish, and
+raw whitefish blubber. The Esquimaux prevailed upon Brother Kmoch to
+taste the latter, and he reported, that having once overcome his
+aversion to it, its taste was sweet, like the kernel of a nut, but
+heated his stomach like a hot posset.
+
+29th. Changeable and rainy weather prevented us from going out much.
+
+30th. Our people, and with them the strange Esquimaux, met for public
+worship. Brother Kohlmeister once more explained to them our intention
+in coming thus far to visit them. He addressed them to the following
+effect: "That already, many years ago, many excellent people in the
+country beyond the great ocean, had thought of them with much love, and
+felt desirous that the inhabitants of the Ungava country also might hear
+the comfortable word of God, and be instructed in it: for they had heard
+that the Esquimaux here were heathen, who, through ignorance, served the
+Torngak, or evil spirit, and were led by him into the commission of all
+manner of sin, that they might hereafter be lost, and go to the place of
+eternal darkness and misery. Out of love, therefore," continued the
+missionary, "they have sent us to you, and out of love we have come to
+you, to tell you how you may be saved, and become happy, peaceful
+children of God, being delivered from the fear of death, which is now
+upon you all, and have the prospect of everlasting joy and peace
+hereafter, even by receiving the gospel, and turning to Jesus, who is
+the only Creator and Saviour of all men. He died for _your_ sins, for
+_our_ sins, and for the sins of all mankind, as our surety, suffering
+the punishment we deserved, that _you_, by receiving Him, and believing
+on Him, might be saved, and not go to the place of eternal darkness and
+pain, but to the place of bliss and eternal rest. You cannot yet
+understand these comfortable words of the gospel, but if it is your
+sincere wish to know the truth of them, Jesus will open your ears and
+hearts, to hear and understand them. These my companions were as
+ignorant as you, but they now thank God, that they know Jesus as their
+Saviour, and are assured that through His death they shall inherit
+everlasting life."
+
+During this address all were silent and very attentive. Some exclaimed:
+"O we desire to hear more about it!" Old Netsiak, from Eivektok, said:
+"I am indeed old, but if you come to live here, I will certainly remove
+hither also; and live with you and be converted."
+
+When we put the question to them, whether they were willing, that we
+should come and dwell with them, and instruct them, they all answered
+with a loud and cheerful voice. "_Kaititse tok, Kaititse tok!_ O do come
+soon, and live with us, we will all gladly be converted, and live with
+you." Jonathan and Jonas also bore ample testimony to the truth of what
+we had spoken, and their words seemed to make a deep impression on all
+their countrymen. Uttakiyok was above others eager to express his wish
+that we might soon make a settlement in the Ungava country. Five of the
+fourteen families who mean to reside here next winter, are from
+Eivektok.
+
+Farther inland, the river Koksoak widens considerably, but consequently
+grows more shallow. The country is pleasant, with wood, grassy plains,
+and gentle hills.
+
+31st. Having finished all our observations here, we dropped down the
+stream to the place, where we had discovered the first tents.
+
+In descending, as well as ascending the river, we saw a great number of
+whitefish, and many seals. Reindeer are numerous on both shores, both in
+summer and winter. All the Esquimaux declared, that this was the best
+provision-place in the whole country, and they consequently flock to it
+from all parts every summer, frequently protracting their stay during
+the winter. The greater number of those we found here, purposed spending
+next winter in this neighbourhood. The Esquimaux are prevented from
+making this place their constant residence by their fear of the
+land-Indians, which cause them to quit it sooner than they otherwise
+would wish to do.
+
+We spared no pains to collect all the information we possibly could
+obtain, on every subject relating to this situation, both as to itself,
+and in reference to the possibility of approaching it with a ship, as
+likewise respecting the inhabitants of the Ungava country in general. It
+appeared evident, that the place above described is the most eligible
+for forming a missionary-settlement.
+
+We found it unnecessary to proceed to the Westward, by the account given
+us by our worthy conductor Uttakiyok, whose information hitherto we had
+always found correct, and confidently to be relied on.
+
+He reported: 1. That farther West no wood is to be found on the coast.
+
+2. That besides the two rivers Kangertlualuksoak and Koksoak, they knew
+of no place where a ship might with safety approach the land.
+
+3. That at this time we should probably find no inhabitants, as they had
+all gone into the interior to hunt reindeer.
+
+We therefore now considered the business committed to us to be
+accomplished, and determined to return to Okkak, thankful to God our
+Saviour for the many proofs of His favour, and protection, experienced
+in the execution of our commission.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+_Return to Okkak._
+
+
+September 1st.--At ten A.M. we fell down the river with the ebb-tide,
+and about noon anchored near its mouth. The Esquimaux showed great
+attachment to us, and could hardly resolve to take a final leave. They
+called after us, "Come soon again, we shall always be wishing for you."
+Several of them, and among them our friend Uttakiyok, followed us in
+their kayaks to the mouth of the river.
+
+We erected here, on the promontory Kernerauyak, a board with an
+inscription similar to that put up at George river, but with the day of
+our departure inserted, viz. Sept. 1st, instead of the day of our
+arrival, Aug. 7th. The same solemnities took place as on the former
+occasion. Our faithful pilot Uttakiyok, who had rendered us such
+important and essential services, now took leave of us, as he intends to
+spend the winter in this neighbourhood. He repeated his assurance, that
+if we settled here, he would be the first to join us, and to turn with
+his whole heart to God. Not willing to be any longer incumbered with the
+skin-boat, we added it to other useful articles given to Uttakiyok, as a
+reward for his faithful attention to us. He was very highly gratified,
+and thankful for this species of remuneration.
+
+2d. Left the Koksoak, called by us, _South river_, and steered to the N.
+of _Kernerauyak_ and _Kikkertorsoak_. In the evening we cast anchor in
+an open road, among the _Nachorutsit_ islands, with fine weather.
+
+3d. Set sail at sun-rise, wind and tide in our favour, and proceeded
+rapidly. About noon, however, a fog came on, which obliged us to come to
+an anchor at _Pitsiolak_. When it cleared up, we proceeded, steering
+between _Allukpalak_ and _Nipkotok_, and cast anchor in the open sea,
+near _Kernertut_, where, on our first arrival, we encountered such a
+tremendous storm. The night proved quite calm and fair.
+
+4th. A gentle breeze brought us pleasantly as far as the island
+_Nauyet_, at the mouth of the _Kangertlualuksoak_, where we cast anchor,
+having performed the same voyage in three days, which took us twelve on
+our former passage. The distance may be about 100 English miles.
+
+5th. Landed, and erected a species of landmark, on the highest point of
+_Nauyet_, as a ship entering the river must keep near this island, the
+shore on the other side being very foul. Contrary winds now obliged us
+to enter the bay, and cast anchor in the same place where we had lain on
+the 9th of August.
+
+6th. Storm and rain prevented our proceeding. The Esquimaux went on
+shore, and pitched their tent. Of late they generally spent the night on
+board the boat.
+
+7th. Wind at W. but a heavy swell from the sea prevented our sailing.
+Our men went out to hunt, and Paul returned in the evening with a deer.
+
+8th. Snow had fallen during the night, and the whole country had the
+appearance of the middle of winter. We dropped down with the ebb-tide,
+but were obliged to anchor again near the entrance of the bay. When the
+tide turned we proceeded, and, leaving _Kikkertorsoak_ to the right,
+made for cape _Kattaktok_, where we spent the night at anchor among some
+low islands. The night was clear, and a comet appeared N. by W.
+
+9th. Wind favourable and strong. We set sail at sun-rise, and steered
+for _Uibvaksoak_, and so rapidly did our boat make way through the
+waves, that we arrived there already at four in the afternoon, passing
+swiftly by the Dragon's dwelling, (_Torngets_). A thunder-storm was
+approaching. The wind, which felt quite warm, was in our rear, and
+violent gusts assailed us now and then, which made us shorten sail; yet
+the boat seemed to fly from island to island. We were unable to find a
+safe anchorage till 8 P.M. when it was already dark. We had sailed, in
+fourteen hours, about 100 English miles, and were all completely wet
+with the spray of the sea and frequent showers. Our Esquimaux were
+obliged, in this condition, to lie down either on deck or on shore.
+
+10th. Reached _Omanek_, about 40 or 50 miles sail.
+
+11th. Wind contrary, with much rain. We were confined to our narrow
+cabin, and shut in all day, with a lamp burning.
+
+12th. Clear weather: set sail at noon. In the afternoon we were saluted
+by some shots from _Killinek_ Esquimaux, who were halting not far from
+the Ikkerasak, or straits, at the entrance of which we cast anchor about
+7 P.M.
+
+13th. Though we wished to have some conversation with the _Killinek_
+people, as they cannot often come to Okkak, yet we thought it adviseable
+to lose no time, and, with the ebb-tide, passed through the _Ikkerasak_
+in perfect safety. When, about 1 P.M. the tide turned, we ran into a
+cove on the south side, and at 5 P.M. anchored in the lagoon above
+described, (See page 43), the entrance to which will only admit a boat.
+
+14th. Reached _Oppernavik_, where we first met Uttakiyok.
+
+15th. Set sail with a gentle breeze, which permitted us to have our
+Sunday's service on deck. The wind, however, soon turning against us, we
+were compelled to return to our former anchorage.
+
+16th and 17th. We were unpleasantly detained by wind and rain, and on
+the latter day much snow fell.
+
+18th. Reached _Kikkertarsoak_ about 1 P.M. Our men went out in their
+kayaks, and returned in the evening with three seals. The night was
+fair, with beautiful appearances of the Aurora Borealis.
+
+19th. The morning was calm: some indications of approaching storm made
+us anxious to proceed. We set out early; but a fog coming on, we came
+again to an anchor off a barren island. After staying here two hours,
+hoping for a favourable change, Jonathan proposed to proceed, and
+steered S.W. not knowing rightly where we were. On this occasion, we
+could not help admiring the composure of the Esquimaux. But having last
+night made a hearty meal of the provisions they had acquired, they
+seemed to take things easy, and thought it would all be right in the
+end. So it turned out; for by and by we saw the continent, and kept
+along shore, till we got to the promontory _Kakkeviak_, where, on our
+passage, we had nearly suffered shipwreck. (See page 38). Here we cast
+anchor in a wide shallow bay, and spent a quiet night.
+
+20th. The fog had dispersed, and the wind was favourable, though
+shifting from W. to N.W.N. and N.E. At 7 P.M. we reached _Kumaktorvik_
+and found good anchorage close to the Esquimaux winter-houses; but we
+were disappointed by finding them empty, the people being probably out
+on the reindeer-hunt. There were four houses standing, apparently not
+old, and the traces of eight others, situated on a low point of land,
+well covered with grass, and surrounded by high mountains.
+
+21st. Wind N.W. set sail by break of day; reached _Nennoktok_ about
+noon, and steered across _Sangmiyok_ bay, for the northern promontory in
+_Nachvak_ bay. Sangmiyok bay is full of breakers, and the sea running
+pretty high, they appeared very distinctly. The wind dying away in the
+afternoon, we got no farther than the steep rocks under which we had
+spent the night of July the 18th, where we came to an anchor. A heavy
+swell from the sea, and violent gusts of wind assailing us in all
+directions from the mountains gave us much uneasiness; but, by the
+protecting care of God, we suffered no harm.
+
+22d. It blew hard from the N.W. and prevented our running into Nachvak
+bay. Our situation being highly dangerous, and the wind favouring our
+proceeding, we determined to pass by Nachvak. But having sailed across
+the bay, our captain found it impossible to proceed, and thought proper
+to come to an anchor. The truth was, that he had left some articles here
+in a cove, which he wished to secure. We therefore went on shore, and
+found many fragments of the bones of whales, whence we inferred that
+whales are sometimes cast on shore in this place.
+
+23d. A heavy storm came on from the N.W. To-day we caught the first
+cod-fish, which proved a very acceptable change of diet for us and our
+people.
+
+24th. The morning was calm. Wind E. left the cove and steered for
+Nachvak, and came, _accidentally_, to the very place where Jonathan's
+goods were deposited. Not perceiving any Esquimaux on shore, Jonathan
+and Thukkekina went up the bay in their kayaks in search of them.
+Meanwhile _we_ landed, and on the declivity of a hill found a great
+quantity of green soapstone. In the evening Jonathan and Thukkekina
+returned with ten other Equimaux, who rejoiced to see us again.
+
+25th. Brother Kohlmeister was engaged all day with the Esquimaux.
+Brother Kmoch went up the mountain, and brought some fine specimens of
+steatite.
+
+26th. Wind strong at N.W. we set sail; but the wind failing, we could
+not reach _Saeglek_, as proposed, but spent the night in the open sea.
+It passed, however, without any unpleasant occurrences.
+
+27th. The want of wind prevented our getting to-day as far as the
+Saeglek islands. Having passed through a very narrow Ikkerasak, with
+hardly sufficient depth of water for so large a boat, we cast anchor
+near our former station at _Kikkertarsoak_.
+
+28th. Wind cold and changeable, and towards evening stormy.
+
+29th. Set sail about 6 A.M. with a strong wind at W. and in the evening
+had reached _Kangertluksoak_ islands.
+
+30th. It blew hard, with snow, and we were obliged to spend the day shut
+up in our small cabin by lamp-light. The land was covered with snow. We
+were detained here very unpleasantly for three days, by the violence of
+the wind and weather.
+
+_October_ 3d. We steered for the promontory of _Kaumayok_; but the wind
+dying away, and at length turning to the South, we could not gain any
+safe harbour, and were obliged to tack about all night in the open sea.
+The weather, however, was mild, and we had the advantage of moon-light.
+
+4th. At 7 A.M. we succeeded in passing the Northern Ikkerasak near cape
+_Mugford_ with the tide, and the wind becoming fair, soon brought us
+among the Okkak islands. About noon we doubled cape _Uivak_, and
+perceived Esquimaux on shore, who ran up the hills, shouted for joy, and
+gave us by signs to understand, that the ship (the brig Jemima, sent
+annually with provisions to the settlements) was still at Okkak.
+
+We cannot describe the inexpressible pleasure and gratitude to God our
+Saviour which we felt, when we again beheld the neighbourhood of Okkak,
+after an absence of fifteen weeks. As soon as the captain descried our
+boat approaching, he hoisted his colours, and fired some guns to give
+notice of our arrival. As we were obliged to tack, to gain the entrance
+to the harbour, he came to meet us in the ship's boat, and about one
+o'clock we landed. The Missionaries and the Esquimaux met us with tears
+of joy and thankfulness, when we all joined in praise to God, who had so
+wonderfully kept His protecting hand over us during this perilous
+voyage, and granted us to return home in safety.
+
+Our voyage lasted from the 24th of June to the 4th of October, and we
+calculated it to be a distance of from 1200 to 1300 miles.
+
+BENJAMIN GOTTLIEB KOHLMEISTER.
+
+GEORGE KMOCH.
+
+[Illustration: _The Northern Extremity of_ LABRADOR with UNGAVA BAY
+Explored by the MISSIONARIES _of the Unitas Fratrum_ in 1811.]
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE FROM OKKAK, ON
+THE COAST OF LABRADOR, TO UNGAVA BAY, WESTWARD OF CAPE CHUDLEIGH***
+
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