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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of History of the Expedition under the Command
+of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I., by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I.
+       To The Sources Of The Missouri, Thence Across The Rocky
+       Mountains And Down The River Columbia To The Pacific Ocean.
+       Performed During The Years 1804-5-6.
+
+Author: Meriwether Lewis and William Clark
+
+Editor: Paul Allen
+
+Release Date: August 20, 2005 [EBook #16565]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LEWIS AND CLARK, I. ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by The Library of Congress, Marilynda
+Fraser-Cunliffe, Peter Barozzi and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+        --------------------------------------------------------
+        |  * Transcriber's Note: Every effort has been made    |
+        |  to replicate this text as faithfully as possible,   |
+        |  including obsolete and variant spellings and other  |
+        |  inconsistencies. Where the text has been changed    |
+        |  to correct an obvious error by the publisher, the   |
+        |  word has been marked with an asterisk.              |
+        --------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: A Map of Lewis and Clark's Track, Across the Western
+Portion of North America, From the Mississippi to the Pacific Ocean;
+by Order of the Executive of the United States, in 1804, 5&6.
+Copied by Samuel Lewis from the Original Drawing by Wm. Clark.]
+
+
+
+
+                                HISTORY
+
+                                  OF
+
+                            THE EXPEDITION
+
+                          UNDER THE COMMAND OF
+
+                       _CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARK,_
+
+                                   TO
+
+                      THE SOURCES OF THE MISSOURI,
+
+                                 THENCE
+
+                       ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS
+
+                              AND DOWN THE
+
+                   RIVER COLUMBIA TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
+
+                   PERFORMED DURING THE YEARS 1804-5-6.
+
+
+                             By order of the
+
+                     GOVERNMENT OF THE UNITED STATES.
+
+
+
+                         PREPARED FOR THE PRESS
+                         BY PAUL ALLEN, ESQUIRE.
+                            IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+                                VOL. I.
+
+
+                             _PHILADELPHIA_
+
+                  PUBLISHED BY BRADFORD AND INSKEEP; AND
+                        ABM. H. INSKEEP, NEW YORK.
+                           J. Maxwell, Printer
+                                  1814.
+
+
+
+
+DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, to wit:
+
+     BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the twenty-second day of January, in the
+     thirty-eighth year of the independence of the United States of
+     America, A.D. 1814, Bradford and Inskeep, of the said district,
+     have deposited in this office the title of a book, the right
+     whereof they claim as proprietors, in the words following, to wit:
+
+     "History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and
+     Clark, to the Sources of the Missouri, thence across the Rocky
+     Mountains, and down the River Columbia to the Pacific Ocean.
+     Performed during the Years 1804-5-6, by order of the Government of
+     the United States. Prepared for the press by Paul Allen, Esquire."
+
+     In conformity to the act of Congress of the United States, entitled
+     "An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies
+     of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such
+     copies during the times therein mentioned." And also to the act,
+     entitled, "An act supplementary to an act, entitled, "An act for
+     the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps,
+     charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies
+     during the times therein mentioned," and extending the benefits
+     thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching historical
+     and other prints."
+                                             DAVID CALDWELL,
+                                Clerk of the District of Pennsylvania.
+
+
+
+
+                                PREFACE.
+
+
+In presenting these volumes to the public, the editor owes equally to
+himself and to others, to state the circumstances which have preceded
+the publication, and to explain his own share in compiling them.
+
+It was the original design of captain Lewis to have been himself the
+editor of his own travels, and he was on his way towards Philadelphia
+for that purpose when his sudden death frustrated these intentions.
+After a considerable and unavoidable delay, the papers connected with
+the expedition were deposited with another gentleman, who, in order to
+render the lapse of time as little injurious as possible, proceeded
+immediately to collect and investigate all the materials within his
+reach.
+
+Of the incidents of each day during the expedition, a minute journal was
+kept by captain Lewis or captain Clark, and sometimes by both, which was
+afterwards revised and enlarged at the different periods of leisure
+which occurred on the route. These were carefully perused in conjunction
+with captain Clark himself, who was able from his own recollection of
+the journey, as well as from a constant residence in Louisiana since his
+return, to supply a great mass of explanations, and much additional
+information with regard to part of the route which has been more
+recently explored. Besides these, recourse was had to the manuscript
+journals kept by two of the serjeants, one of which, the least minute
+and valuable, has already been published. That nothing might be wanting
+to the accuracy of these details, a very intelligent and active member
+of the party, Mr. George Shannon, was sent to contribute whatever his
+memory might add to this accumulated fund of information.
+
+From these copious materials the narrative was sketched nearly in its
+present form, when other pursuits diverted the attention of the writer,
+and compelled him to transfer his manuscript, in its unfinished state,
+with all the documents connected with it, to the present editor, to
+prepare them for the press and superintend the publication. That he may
+not seem to arrogate any thing from the exertions of others, he should
+therefore state that, although the whole work was thus submitted to his
+entire discretion, he found but little to change, and that his labour
+has been principally confined to revising the manuscript, comparing it
+with the original papers, and inserting such additional matter as
+appears to have been intentionally deferred by the writer till the
+period of a more mature revisal. These circumstances, which would
+otherwise be indifferent to the public, are mentioned merely to account
+for imperfections, which are in some degree inseparable from any book of
+travels not written by the traveller. In a work of pure description
+indeed, like the present, where the incidents themselves are the sole
+objects of attraction, the part of an editor is necessarily subordinate,
+nor can his humble pretensions aspire beyond the merit of rigid
+adherence to facts as they are stated to him. This has been very
+diligently attempted, and for this, in its full extent, the editor deems
+himself responsible.
+
+The present volumes, it will be perceived, comprise only the narrative
+of the journey. Those parts of the work which relate to the various
+objects of natural history, observed or collected during the journey, as
+well as the alphabets of the Indian languages, are in the hands of
+professor Bartou, and will, it is understood, shortly appear.
+
+To give still further interest to the work, the editor addressed a
+letter to Mr. Jefferson, requesting some authentic memoirs of captain
+Lewis. For the very curious and valuable information contained in his
+answer, the public, as well as the editor himself, owe great obligations
+to the politeness and knowledge of that distinguished gentleman.
+
+                                                       PAUL ALLEN.
+PHILADELPHIA, January 1, 1814.
+
+
+
+
+                       LIFE OF CAPTAIN LEWIS.
+
+                                          _Monticello, August 18, 1813._
+SIR,
+
+In compliance with the request conveyed in your letter of May 25, I
+have endeavoured to obtain, from the relations and friends of the late
+governor Lewis, information of such incidents of his life as might be
+not unacceptable to those who may read the narrative of his western
+discoveries. The ordinary occurrences of a private life, and those also
+while acting in a subordinate sphere in the army, in a time of peace,
+are not deemed sufficiently interesting to occupy the public attention;
+but a general account of his parentage, with such smaller incidents as
+marked his early character are briefly noted; and to these are added, as
+being peculiarly within my own knowledge, whatever related to the public
+mission, of which an account is now to be published. The result of my
+inquiries and recollections shall now be offered, to be enlarged or
+abridged as you may think best; or otherwise to be used with the
+materials you may have collected from other sources.
+
+Meriwether Lewis, late governor of Louisiana, was born on the eighteenth
+of August, 1774, near the town of Charlottesville, in the county of
+Albemarle, in Virginia, of one of the distinguished families of that
+state. John Lewis, one of his father's uncles was a member of the
+king's council, before the revolution. Another of them, Fielding Lewis,
+married a sister of general Washington. His father, William Lewis, was
+the youngest of five sons of colonel Robert Lewis, of Albemarle, the
+fourth of whom, Charles, was one of the early patriots who stepped
+forward in the commencement of the revolution and commanded one of the
+regiments first raised in Virginia, and placed on continental
+establishment. Happily situated at home, with a wife and young family,
+and a fortune placing him at ease, he left all to aid in the liberation
+of his country from foreign usurpations, then first unmasking their
+ultimate end and aim. His good sense, integrity, bravery, enterprise,
+and remarkable bodily powers, marked him as an officer of great promise;
+but he unfortunately died early in the revolution. Nicholas Lewis, the
+second of his father's brothers, commanded a regiment of militia in the
+successful expedition of 1776, against the Cherokee Indians; who,
+seduced by the agents of the British government to take up the hatchet
+against us, had committed great havoc on our southern frontier, by
+murdering and scalping helpless women and children, according to their
+cruel and cowardly principles of warfare. The chastisement they then
+received closed the history of their wars, and prepared them for
+receiving the elements of civilization, which, zealously inculcated by
+the present government of the United States, have rendered them an
+industrious, peaceable, and happy people. This member of the family of
+Lewises, whose bravery was so usefully proved on this occasion, was
+endeared to all who knew him by his inflexible probity, courteous
+disposition, benevolent heart, and engaging modesty and manners. He was
+the umpire of all the private differences of his county--selected always
+by both parties. He was also the guardian of Meriwether Lewis, of whom
+we are now to speak, and who had lost his father at an early age. He
+continued some years under the fostering care of a tender mother, of the
+respectable family of Meriwethers, of the same county; and was
+remarkable even in infancy for enterprise, boldness, and discretion.
+When only eight years of age he habitually went out, in the dead of
+night, alone with his dogs, into the forest to hunt the raccoon and
+opossum, which, seeking their food in the night, can then only be taken.
+In this exercise, no season or circumstance could obstruct his
+purpose--plunging through the winter's snows and frozen streams in
+pursuit of his object. At thirteen he was put to the Latin school, and
+continued at that until eighteen, when he returned to his mother, and
+entered on the cares of his farm; having, as well as a younger brother,
+been left by his father with a competency for all the correct and
+comfortable purposes of temperate life. His talent for observation,
+which had led him to an accurate knowledge of the plants and animals of
+his own country, would have distinguished him as a farmer; but at the
+age of twenty, yielding to the ardour of youth, and a passion for more
+dazzling pursuits, he engaged as a volunteer in the body of militia
+which were called out by general Washington, on occasion of the
+discontents produced by the excise taxes in the western parts of the
+United States; and from that situation he was removed to the regular
+service as a lieutenant in the line. At twenty-three he was promoted to
+a captaincy; and, always attracting the first attention where
+punctuality and fidelity were requisite, he was appointed paymaster to
+his regiment. About this time a circumstance occurred which, leading to
+the transaction which is the subject of this book, will justify a
+recurrence to its original idea. While I resided in Paris, John Ledyard,
+of Connecticut, arrived there, well known in the United States for
+energy of body and mind. He had accompanied captain Cook on his voyage
+to the Pacific ocean; and distinguished himself on that voyage by his
+intrepidity. Being of a roaming disposition, he was now panting for some
+new enterprise. His immediate object at Paris was to engage a mercantile
+company in the fur-trade of the western coast of America, in which,
+however, he failed. I then proposed to him to go by land to Kamschatka,
+cross in some of the Russian vessels to Nootka Sound, fall down into the
+latitude of the Missouri, and penetrate to, and through, that to the
+United States. He eagerly seized the idea, and only asked to be assured
+of the permission of the Russian government. I interested, in obtaining
+that, M. de Simoulin, minister plenipotentiary of the empress at Paris,
+but more especially the baron de Grimm, minister plenipotentiary of
+Saxe-Gotha, her more special agent and correspondent there in matters
+not immediately diplomatic. Her permission was obtained, and an
+assurance of protection while the course of the voyage should be through
+her territories. Ledyard set out from Paris, and arrived at St.
+Petersburgh after the empress had left that place to pass the winter, I
+think, at Moscow. His finances not permitting him to make unnecessary
+stay at St. Petersburgh, he left it with a passport from one of the
+ministers; and at two hundred miles from Kamschatka, was obliged to take
+up his winter quarters. He was preparing, in the spring, to resume his
+journey, when he was arrested by an officer of the empress, who by this
+time had changed her mind, and forbidden his proceeding. He was put into
+a close carriage, and conveyed day and night, without ever stopping,
+till they reached Poland; where he was set down and left to himself. The
+fatigue of this journey broke down his constitution; and when he
+returned to Paris his bodily strength was much impaired. His mind,
+however, remained firm, and he after this undertook the journey to
+Egypt. I received a letter from him, full of sanguine hopes, dated at
+Cairo, the fifteenth of November, 1788, the day before he was to set out
+for the head of the Nile; on which day, however, he ended his career and
+life: and thus failed the first attempt to explore the western part of
+our northern continent.
+
+In 1792, I proposed to the American Philosophical Society that we should
+set on foot a subscription to engage some competent person to explore
+that region in the opposite direction; that is, by ascending the
+Missouri, crossing the Stony mountains, and descending the nearest river
+to the Pacific. Captain Lewis being then stationed at Charlottesville,
+on the recruiting service, warmly solicited me to obtain for him the
+execution of that object. I told him it was proposed that the person
+engaged should be attended by a single companion only, to avoid exciting
+alarm among the Indians. This did not deter him; but Mr. Andre Michaux,
+a professed botanist, author of the Flora Boreali-Americana, and of the
+Histoire des Chesnes d'Amerique, offering his services, they were
+accepted. He received his instructions, and when he had reached Kentucky
+in the prosecution of his journey, he was overtaken by an order from the
+minister of France, then at Philadelphia, to relinquish the expedition,
+and to pursue elsewhere the botanical inquiries on which he was employed
+by that government: and thus failed the second attempt for exploring
+that region.
+
+In 1803, the act for establishing trading houses with the Indian tribes
+being about to expire, some modifications of it were recommended to
+congress by a confidential message of January 18th, and an extension of
+its views to the Indians on the Missouri. In order to prepare the way,
+the message proposed the sending an exploring party to trace the
+Missouri to its source, to cross the Highlands, and follow the best
+water-communication which offered itself from thence to the Pacific
+ocean. Congress approved the proposition, and voted a sum of money for
+carrying it into execution. Captain Lewis, who had then been near two
+years with me as private secretary, immediately renewed his
+solicitations to have the direction of the party. I had now had
+opportunities of knowing him intimately. Of courage undaunted;
+possessing a firmness and perseverance of purpose which nothing but
+impossibilities could divert from its direction; careful as a father of
+those committed to his charge, yet steady in the maintenance of order
+and discipline; intimate with the Indian character, customs, and
+principles; habituated to the hunting life; guarded, by exact
+observation of the vegetables and animals of his own country, against
+losing time in the description of objects already possessed; honest,
+disinterested, liberal, of sound understanding, and a fidelity to truth
+so scrupulous, that whatever he should report would be as certain as if
+seen by ourselves; with all these qualifications, as if selected and
+implanted by nature in one body for this express purpose, I could have
+no hesitation in confiding the enterprise to him. To fill up the measure
+desired, he wanted nothing but a greater familiarity with the technical
+language of the natural sciences, and readiness in the astronomical
+observations necessary for the geography of his route. To acquire these
+he repaired immediately to Philadelphia, and placed himself under the
+tutorage of the distinguished professors of that place, who with a zeal
+and emulation, enkindled by an ardent devotion to science, communicated
+to him freely the information requisite for the purposes of the journey.
+While attending too, at Lancaster, the fabrication of the arms with
+which he chose that his men should be provided, he had the benefit of
+daily communication with Mr. Andrew Ellicot, whose experience in
+astronomical observation, and practice of it in the woods, enabled him
+to apprise captain Lewis of the wants and difficulties he would
+encounter, and of the substitutes and resources offered by a woodland
+and uninhabited country.
+
+Deeming it necessary he should have some person with him of known
+competence to the direction of the enterprise, in the event of accident
+to himself, he proposed William Clarke, brother of general George Rogers
+Clarke, who was approved, and, with that view, received a commission of
+captain.
+
+In April, 1803, a draught of his instructions was sent to captain Lewis,
+and on the twentieth of June they were signed in the following form:
+
+     "To Meriwether Lewis, esquire, captain of the first regiment of
+     infantry of the United States of America:
+
+     "Your situation as secretary of the president of the United States,
+     has made you acquainted with the objects of my confidential message
+     of January 18, 1803, to the legislature; you have seen the act they
+     passed, which, though expressed in general terms, was meant to
+     sanction those objects, and you are appointed to carry them into
+     execution.
+
+     "Instruments for ascertaining, by celestial observations, the
+     geography of the country through which you will pass, have been
+     already provided. Light articles for barter and presents among the
+     Indians, arms for your attendants, say for from ten to twelve men,
+     boats, tents, and other travelling apparatus, with ammunition,
+     medicine, surgical instruments, and provisions, you will have
+     prepared, with such aids as the secretary at war can yield in his
+     department; and from him also you will receive authority to engage
+     among our troops, by voluntary agreement, the number of attendants
+     abovementioned; over whom you, as their commanding officer, are
+     invested with all the powers the laws give in such a case.
+
+     "As your movements, while within the limits of the United States,
+     will be better directed by occasional communications, adapted to
+     circumstances as they arise, they will not be noticed here. What
+     follows will respect your proceedings after your departure from the
+     United States.
+
+     "Your mission has been communicated to the ministers here from
+     France, Spain, and Great Britain, and through them to their
+     governments; and such assurances given them as to its objects, as
+     we trust will satisfy them. The country of Louisiana having been
+     ceded by Spain to France, the passport you have from the minister
+     of France, the representative of the present sovereign of the
+     country, will be a protection with all its subjects; and that from
+     the minister of England will entitle you to the friendly aid of any
+     traders of that allegiance with whom you may happen to meet.
+
+     "The object of your mission is to explore the Missouri river, and
+     such principal streams of it, as, by its course and communication
+     with the waters of the Pacific ocean, whether the Columbia, Oregan,
+     Colorado, or any other river, may offer the most direct and
+     practicable water-communication across the continent, for the
+     purposes of commerce.
+
+     "Beginning at the mouth of the Missouri, you will take observations
+     of latitude and longitude, at all remarkable points on the river,
+     and especially at the mouths of rivers, at rapids, at islands, and
+     other places and objects distinguished by such natural marks and
+     characters, of a durable kind, as that they may with certainty be
+     recognised hereafter. The courses of the river between these points
+     of observation may be supplied by the compass, the log-line, and by
+     time, corrected by the observations themselves. The variations of
+     the needle, too, in different places, should be noticed.
+
+     "The interesting points of the portage between the heads of the
+     Missouri, and of the water offering the best communication with the
+     Pacific ocean, should also be fixed by observation; and the course
+     of that water to the ocean, in the same manner as that of the
+     Missouri.
+
+     "Your observations are to be taken with great pains and accuracy;
+     to be entered distinctly and intelligibly for others as well as
+     yourself; to comprehend all the elements necessary, with the aid of
+     the usual tables, to fix the latitude and longitude of the places
+     at which they were taken; and are to be rendered to the war-office,
+     for the purpose of having the calculations made concurrently by
+     proper persons within the United States. Several copies of these,
+     as well as of your other notes, should be made at leisure times,
+     and put into the care of the most trust-worthy of your attendants
+     to guard, by multiplying them against the accidental losses to
+     which they will be exposed. A further guard would be, that one of
+     these copies be on the cuticular membranes of the paper-birch, as
+     less liable to injury from damp than common paper.
+
+     "The commerce which may be carried on with the people inhabiting
+     the line you will pursue, renders a knowledge of those people
+     important. You will therefore endeavour to make yourself
+     acquainted, as far as a diligent pursuit of your journey shall
+     admit, with the names of the nations and their numbers;
+
+     "The extent and limits of their possessions;
+
+     "Their relations with other tribes or nations;
+
+     "Their language, traditions, monuments;
+
+     "Their ordinary occupations in agriculture, fishing, hunting, war,
+     arts, and the implements for these;
+
+     "Their food, clothing, and domestic accommodations;
+
+     "The diseases prevalent among them, and the remedies they use;
+
+     "Moral and physical circumstances which distinguish them from the
+     tribes we know;
+
+     "Peculiarities in their laws, customs, and dispositions;
+
+     "And articles of commerce they may need or furnish, and to what
+     extent.
+
+     "And, considering the interest which every nation has in extending
+     and strengthening the authority of reason and justice among the
+     people around them, it will be useful to acquire what knowledge you
+     can of the state of morality, religion, and information among them;
+     as it may better enable those who may endeavour to civilize and
+     instruct them, to adapt their measures to the existing notions and
+     practices of those on whom they are to operate.
+
+     "Other objects worthy of notice will be--
+
+     "The soil and face of the country, its growth and vegetable
+     productions, especially those not of the United States;
+
+     "The animals of the country generally, and especially those not
+     known in the United States;
+
+     "The remains and accounts of any which may be deemed rare or
+     extinct;
+
+     "The mineral productions of every kind, but more particularly
+     metals, lime-stone, pit-coal, and saltpetre; salines and mineral
+     waters, noting the temperature of the last, and such circumstances
+     as may indicate their character;
+
+     "Volcanic appearances;
+
+     "Climate, as characterized by the thermometer, by the proportion of
+     rainy, cloudy, and clear days; by lightning, hail, snow, ice; by
+     the access and recess of frost; by the winds prevailing at
+     different seasons; the dates at which particular plants put forth,
+     or lose their flower or leaf; times of appearance of particular
+     birds, reptiles or insects.
+
+     "Although your route will be along the channel of the Missouri, yet
+     you will endeavour to inform yourself, by inquiry, of the character
+     and extent of the country watered by its branches, and especially
+     on its southern side. The North river, or Rio Bravo, which runs
+     into the gulf of Mexico, and the North river, or Rio Colorado,
+     which runs into the gulf of California, are understood to be the
+     principal streams heading opposite to the waters of the Missouri,
+     and running southwardly. Whether the dividing grounds between the
+     Missouri and them are mountains or flat lands, what are their
+     distance from the Missouri, the character of the intermediate
+     country, and the people inhabiting it, are worthy of particular
+     inquiry. The northern waters of the Missouri are less to be
+     inquired after, because they have been ascertained to a
+     considerable degree, and are still in a course of ascertainment by
+     English traders and travellers; but if you can learn any thing
+     certain of the most northern source of the Missisipi, and of its
+     position relatively to the Lake of the Woods, it will be
+     interesting to us. Some account too of the path of the Canadian
+     traders from the Missisipi, at the mouth of the Onisconsing to
+     where it strikes the Missouri, and of the soil and rivers in its
+     course, is desirable.
+
+     "In all your intercourse with the natives, treat them in the most
+     friendly and conciliatory manner which their own conduct will
+     admit; allay all jealousies as to the object of your journey;
+     satisfy them of its innocence; make them acquainted with the
+     position, extent, character, peaceable and commercial dispositions
+     of the United States; of our wish to be neighbourly, friendly, and
+     useful to them, and of our dispositions to a commercial intercourse
+     with them; confer with them on the points most convenient as mutual
+     emporiums, and the articles of most desirable interchange for them
+     and us. If a few of their influential chiefs, within practicable
+     distance, wish to visit us, arrange such a visit with them, and
+     furnish them with authority to call on our officers on their
+     entering the United States, to have them conveyed to this place at
+     the public expense. If any of them should wish to have some of
+     their young people brought up with us, and taught such arts as may
+     be useful to them, we will receive, instruct, and take care of
+     them. Such a mission, whether of influential chiefs, or of young
+     people, would give some security to your own party. Carry with you
+     some matter of the kine-pox; inform those of them with whom you may
+     be of its efficacy as a preservative from the small-pox, and
+     instruct and encourage them in the use of it. This may be
+     especially done wherever you winter.
+
+     "As it is impossible for us to foresee in what manner you will be
+     received by those people, whether with hospitality or hostility, so
+     is it impossible to prescribe the exact degree of perseverance with
+     which you are to pursue your journey. We value too much the lives
+     of citizens to offer them to probable destruction. Your numbers
+     will be sufficient to secure you against the unauthorized
+     opposition of individuals, or of small parties; but if a superior
+     force, authorized, or not authorized, by a nation, should be
+     arrayed against your further passage, and inflexibly determined to
+     arrest it, you must decline its further pursuit and return. In the
+     loss of yourselves we should lose also the information you will
+     have acquired. By returning safely with that, you may enable us to
+     renew the essay with better calculated means. To your own
+     discretion, therefore, must be left the degree of danger you may
+     risk, and the point at which you should decline, only saying, we
+     wish you to err on the side of your safety, and to bring back your
+     party safe, even if it be with less information.
+
+     "As far up the Missouri as the white settlements extend, an
+     intercourse will probably be found to exist between them and the
+     Spanish posts of St. Louis opposite Cahokia, or St. Genevieve
+     opposite Kaskaskia. From still further up the river the traders may
+     furnish a conveyance for letters. Beyond that you may perhaps be
+     able to engage Indians to bring letters for the government to
+     Cahokia, or Kaskaskia, on promising that they shall there receive
+     such special compensation as you shall have stipulated with them.
+     Avail yourself of these means to communicate to us, at seasonable
+     intervals, a copy of your journal, notes and observations of every
+     kind, putting into cypher whatever might do injury if betrayed.
+
+     "Should you reach the Pacific ocean, inform yourself of the
+     circumstances which may decide whether the furs of those parts may
+     not be collected as advantageously at the head of the Missouri
+     (convenient as is supposed to the waters of the Colorado and Oregan
+     or Columbia) as at Nootka Sound, or any other point of that coast;
+     and that trade be consequently conducted through the Missouri and
+     United States more beneficially than by the circumnavigation now
+     practised.
+
+     "On your arrival on that coast, endeavour to learn if there be any
+     port within your reach frequented by the sea vessels of any nation,
+     and to send two of your trusty people back by sea, in such way as
+     shall appear practicable, with a copy of your notes; and should you
+     be of opinion that the return of your party by the way they went
+     will be imminently dangerous, then ship the whole, and return by
+     sea, by the way either of Cape Horn, or the Cape of Good Hope, as
+     you shall be able. As you will be without money, clothes, or
+     provisions, you must endeavour to use the credit of the United
+     States to obtain them; for which purpose open letters of credit
+     shall be furnished you, authorizing you to draw on the executive of
+     the United States, or any of its officers, in any part of the
+     world, on which draughts can be disposed of, and to apply with our
+     recommendations to the consuls, agents, merchants, or citizens of
+     any nation with which we have intercourse, assuring them, in our
+     name, that any aids they may furnish you shall be honourably
+     repaid, and on demand. Our consuls, Thomas Hewes, at Batavia, in
+     Java, William Buchanan, in the Isles of France and Bourbon, and
+     John Elmslie, at the Cape of Good Hope, will be able to supply your
+     necessities, by draughts on us.
+
+     "Should you find it safe to return by the way you go, after sending
+     two of your party round by sea, or with your whole party, if no
+     conveyance by sea can be found, do so; making such observations on
+     your return as may serve to supply, correct, or confirm those made
+     on your outward journey.
+
+     "On reentering the United States and reaching a place of safety,
+     discharge any of your attendants who may desire and deserve it,
+     procuring for them immediate payment of all arrears of pay and
+     clothing which may have incurred since their departure, and assure
+     them that they shall be recommended to the liberality of the
+     legislature for the grant of a soldier's portion of land each, as
+     proposed in my message to congress, and repair yourself, with your
+     papers, to the seat of government.
+
+     "To provide, on the accident of your death, against anarchy,
+     dispersion, and the consequent danger to your party, and total
+     failure of the enterprise, you are hereby authorized, by any
+     instrument signed and written in your own hand, to name the person
+     among them who shall succeed to the command on your decease, and by
+     like instruments to change the nomination, from time to time, as
+     further experience of the characters accompanying you shall point
+     out superior fitness; and all the powers and authorities given to
+     yourself are, in the event of your death, transferred to, and
+     vested in the successor so named, with further power to him and his
+     successors, in like manner to name each his successor, who, on the
+     death of his predecessor, shall be invested with all the powers and
+     authorities given to yourself. Given under my hand at the city of
+     Washington, this twentieth day of June, 1803.
+
+                                        "THOMAS JEFFERSON,
+                          "_President of the United States of America_."
+
+
+While these things were going on here, the country of Louisiana, lately
+ceded by Spain to France, had been the subject of negotiation at Paris
+between us and this last power; and had actually been transferred to us
+by treaties executed at Paris on the thirtieth of April. This
+information, received about the first day of July, increased infinitely
+the interest we felt in the expedition, and lessened the apprehensions
+of interruption from other powers. Every thing in this quarter being now
+prepared, captain Lewis left Washington on the fifth of July, 1803, and
+proceeded to Pittsburg, where other articles had been ordered to be
+provided for him. The men too were to be selected from the military
+stations on the Ohio. Delays of preparation, difficulties of navigation
+down the Ohio, and other untoward obstructions, retarded his arrival at
+Cahokia until the season was so far advanced as to render it prudent to
+suspend his entering the Missouri before the ice should break up in the
+succeeding spring.
+
+From this time his journal, now published, will give the history of his
+journey to and from the Pacific ocean, until his return to St. Louis on
+the twenty-third of September, 1806. Never did a similar event excite
+more joy through the United States. The humblest of its citizens had
+taken a lively interest in the issue of this journey, and looked forward
+with impatience for the information it would furnish. Their anxieties
+too for the safety of the corps had been kept in a state of excitement
+by lugubrious rumours, circulated from time to time on uncertain
+authorities, and uncontradicted by letters, or other direct information,
+from the time they had left the Mandan towns, on their ascent up the
+river in April of the preceding year, 1805, until their actual return to
+St. Louis.
+
+It was the middle of February, 1807, before captain Lewis, with his
+companion captain Clarke, reached the city of Washington, where congress
+was then in session. That body granted to the two chiefs and their
+followers the donation of lands which they had been encouraged to expect
+in reward of their toil and dangers. Captain Lewis was soon after
+appointed governor of Louisiana, and captain Clarke a general of its
+militia, and agent of the United States for Indian affairs in that
+department.
+
+A considerable time intervened before the governor's arrival at St.
+Louis. He found the territory distracted by feuds and contentions among
+the officers of the government, and the people themselves divided by
+these into factions and parties. He determined at once to take no side
+with either; but to use every endeavour to conciliate and harmonize
+them. The even-handed justice he administered to all soon established a
+respect for his person and authority; and perseverance and time wore
+down animosities, and reunited the citizens again into one family.
+
+Governor Lewis had, from early life, been subject to hypochondriac
+affections. It was a constitutional disposition in all the nearer
+branches of the family of his name, and was more immediately inherited
+by him from his father. They had not, however, been so strong as to give
+uneasiness to his family. While he lived with me in Washington I
+observed at times sensible depressions of mind: but knowing their
+constitutional source, I estimated their course by what I had seen in
+the family. During his western expedition, the constant exertion which
+that required of all the faculties of body and mind, suspended these
+distressing affections; but after his establishment at St. Louis in
+sedentary occupations, they returned upon him with redoubled vigour, and
+began seriously to alarm his friends. He was in a paroxysm of one of
+these, when his affairs rendered it necessary for him to go to
+Washington. He proceeded to the Chickasaw Bluffs, where he arrived on
+the sixteenth of September, 1809, with a view of continuing his journey
+thence by water. Mr. Neely, agent of the United States with the
+Chickasaw Indians, arriving there two days after, found him extremely
+indisposed, and betraying at times some symptoms of a derangement of
+mind. The rumours of a war with England, and apprehensions that he might
+lose the papers he was bringing on, among which were the vouchers of his
+public accounts, and the journals and papers of his western expedition,
+induced him here to change his mind, and to take his course by land
+through the Chickasaw country. Although he appeared somewhat relieved,
+Mr. Neely kindly determined to accompany and watch over him.
+Unfortunately, at their encampment, after having passed the Tennessee
+one day's journey, they lost two horses, which obliging Mr. Neely to
+halt for their recovery, the governor proceeded, under a promise to wait
+for him at the house of the first white inhabitant on his road. He
+stopped at the house of a Mr. Grinder, who not being at home, his wife,
+alarmed at the symptoms of derangement she discovered, gave him up the
+house and retired to rest herself in an out-house, the governor's and
+Neely's servants lodging in another. About three o'clock in the night he
+did the deed which plunged his friends into affliction, and deprived his
+country of one of her most valued citizens, whose valour and
+intelligence would have been now employed in avenging the wrongs of his
+country, and in emulating by land the splendid deeds which have honoured
+her arms on the ocean. It lost too to the nation the benefit of
+receiving from his own hand the narrative now offered them of his
+sufferings and successes, in endeavouring to extend for them the
+boundaries of science, and to present to their knowledge that vast and
+fertile country, which their sons are destined to fill with arts, with
+science, with freedom and happiness.
+
+To this melancholy close of the life of one, whom posterity will declare
+not to have lived in vain, I have only to add, that all the facts I have
+stated are either known to myself, or communicated by his family or
+others, for whose truth I have no hesitation to make myself responsible;
+and I conclude with tendering you the assurances of my respect and
+consideration.
+
+                                                  TH. JEFFERSON.
+
+Mr. PAUL ALLEN, Philadelphia.
+
+
+
+
+                                CONTENTS.
+
+                                 VOL. I.
+
+
+                                CHAPTER I.
+
+          The party set out on the expedition and pass Wood
+          river. Description of the town of St. Charles. Osage
+          Woman river. Gasconade and Osage rivers described.
+          Character of the Osage Indians; curious traditionary
+          account of their origin. The party proceed and pass
+          the Mine river. The two Charitons. The Kanzas,
+          Nodawa, Newahaw, Neeshuabatona, Little Nemahar, each
+          of which are particularly described. They encamp at
+          the mouth of the river Platte. A particular
+          description of the surrounding country. The various
+          creeks, bays, islands, prairies, &c. given in the
+          course of the route.                                    1
+
+
+                               CHAPTER II.
+
+          Some account of the Pawnee Indians. Council held
+          with the Otto and Missouri Indians. Council held
+          with another party of the Ottoes. Death of sergeant
+          Floyd. The party encamp near the mouth of Whitestone
+          river. The character of the Missouri, with the
+          rivers that enter it. The surrounding country. The
+          various islands, bays, creeks, &c. given in the
+          course of the expedition.                              32
+
+
+                              CHAPTER III.
+
+          Whimsical instance of superstition of the Sioux
+          Indians. Council held with the Sioux. Character of
+          that tribe, their manners, &c. A ridiculous instance
+          of their heroism. Ancient fortifications. Quieurre
+          river described. Vast herds of Buffaloe. Account of
+          the Petit Chien or Little Dog. Narrow escape of
+          George Shannon. Description of White river.
+          Surprising fleetness of the antelope. Pass the river
+          of the Sioux. Description of the Grand Le Tour, or
+          Great Bend. Encamp on the Teton river.                 52
+
+
+                               CHAPTER IV.
+
+          Council held with the Tetons. Their manners, dances,
+          &c. Cheyenne river described. Council held with the
+          Ricara Indians. Their manners and habits. Strange
+          instance of Ricara idolatry. Another instance.
+          Cannonball river. Arrival among the Mandans.
+          Character of the surrounding country, and of the
+          creeks, islands, &c.                                   82
+
+
+                                CHAPTER V.
+
+          Council held with the Mandans. A prairie on fire,
+          and a singular instance of preservation. Peace
+          established between the Mandans and Ricaras. The
+          party encamp for the winter. Indian mode of catching
+          goats. Beautiful appearance of northern lights.
+          Friendly character of the Indians. Some account of
+          the Mandans. The Anahaways and the Minnetarees. The
+          party acquire the confidence of the Mandans by
+          taking part in their controversy with the Sioux.
+          Religion of the Mandans, and their singular
+          conception of the term medicine. Their tradition.
+          The sufferings of the party from the severity of the
+          season. Indian game of billiards described.
+          Character of the Missouri, of the surrounding
+          country, and of the rivers, creeks, islands, &c.      118
+
+
+                               CHAPTER VI.
+
+          The party increase in the favour of the Mandans.
+          Description of a buffaloe dance. Medicine dance. The
+          fortitude with which the Indians bear the severity
+          of the season. Distress of the party for want of
+          provisions. The great importance of the blacksmith
+          in procuring it. Depredations of the Sioux. The
+          homage paid to the medicine stone. Summary act of
+          justice among the Minnetarees. The process by which
+          the Mandans and Ricaras make beads. Character of the
+          Missouri, of the surrounding country, and of the
+          rivers, creeks, islands, &c.                          148
+
+
+                               CHAPTER VII.
+
+          Indian method of attacking the buffaloe on the ice.
+          An enumeration of the presents sent to the president
+          of the United States. The party are visited by a
+          Ricara chief. They leave their encampment, and
+          proceed on their journey. Description of the Little
+          Missouri. Some account of the Assiniboins. Their
+          mode of burying the dead. Whiteearth river
+          described. Great quantity of salt discovered on its
+          banks. Yellowstone river described. A particular
+          account of the country at the confluence of the
+          Yellowstone and Missouri. Description of the
+          Missouri, the surrounding country, and of the
+          rivers, creeks, islands, &c.                          174
+
+
+                               CHAPTER VIII.
+
+          Unusual appearance of salt. The formidable character
+          of the white bear. Porcupine river described.
+          Beautiful appearance of the surrounding country.
+          Immense quantities of game. Milk river described.
+          Extraordinary character of Bigdry river. An instance
+          of uncommon tenacity of life in a white bear. Narrow
+          escape of one of the party from that animal. A still
+          more remarkable instance. Muscleshell river
+          described.                                            199
+
+
+                               CHAPTER IX.
+
+          The party continue their route. Description of
+          Judith river. Indian mode of taking the buffaloe.
+          Slaughter river described. Phenomena of nature. Of
+          walls on the banks of the Missouri. The party encamp
+          on the banks of the river to ascertain which of the
+          streams constitute the Missouri. Captain Lewis
+          leaves the party to explore the northern fork, and
+          captain Clarke explores the southern. The
+          surrounding country described in the route of
+          captain Lewis. Narrow escape of one of his party.
+                                                                225
+
+
+                               CHAPTER X.
+
+          Return of captain Lewis. Account of captain Clarke's
+          researches with his exploring party. Perilous
+          situation of one of his party. Tansy river
+          described. The party still believing the southern
+          fork the Missouri, captain Lewis is resolves to
+          ascend it. Mode of making a place to deposit
+          provisions, called cache. Captain Lewis explores the
+          southern fork. Falls of the Missouri discovered,
+          which ascertains the question. Romantic scenery of
+          the surrounding country. Narrow escape of captain
+          Lewis. The main body under captain Clarke approach
+          within five miles of the falls, and prepare for
+          making a portage over the rapids.                     251
+
+
+                               CHAPTER XI.
+
+          Description and romantic appearance of the Missouri
+          at the junction of the Medicine river. The
+          difficulty of transporting the baggage at the falls.
+          The party employed in the construction of a boat of
+          skins. The embarrassments they had to encounter for
+          the want of proper materials. During the work the
+          party much troubled by white bears. Violent
+          hail-storm, and providential escape of captain
+          Clarke and his party. Description of a remarkable
+          fountain. Singular explosion heard from the Black
+          mountains. The boat found to be insufficient, and
+          the serious disappointment of the party. Captain
+          Clarke undertakes to repair the damage by building
+          canoes, and accomplishes the task.                    275
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XII.
+
+          The party embark on board the canoes. Description of
+          Smith's river. Character of the country, &c.
+          Dearborne's river described. Captain Clarke precedes
+          the party for the purpose of discovering the Indians
+          of the Rocky mountains. Magnificent rocky
+          appearances on the borders of the river denominated
+          the Gates of the Rocky mountains. Captain Clarke
+          arrives at the three forks of the Missouri without
+          overtaking the Indians. The party arrive at the
+          three forks, of which a peculiar and interesting
+          description is given.                                 301
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XIII.
+
+          The name of the Missouri changed, as the river now
+          divides itself into three forks, one of which is
+          called after Jefferson, the other Madison, and the
+          other after Gallatin. Their general character. The
+          party ascend the Jefferson branch. Description of
+          the river Philosophy which enters into the
+          Jefferson. Captain Lewis and a small party go in
+          advance in search of the Shoshonees. Description of
+          the country, &c. bordering on the river. Captain
+          Lewis still preceding the main party in quest of the
+          Shoshonees. A singular accident which prevented
+          captain Clarke from following captain Lewis's
+          advice, and ascending the middle fork of the river.
+          Description of Philanthropy river, another stream
+          running into the Jefferson. Captain Lewis and a
+          small party having been unsuccessful in their first
+          attempt, set off a second time in quest of the
+          Shoshonees.                                           328
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XIV.
+
+          Captain Lewis proceeds before the main body in
+          search of the Shoshonees; his ill success on the
+          first interview. The party with captain Lewis at
+          length discover the source of the Missouri. Captain
+          Clarke with the main body still employed in
+          ascending the Missouri or Jefferson river. Captain
+          Lewis's second interview with the Shoshonees
+          attended with success. The interesting ceremonies of
+          his first introduction to the natives, detailed at
+          large. Their hospitality. Their mode of hunting the
+          antelope. The difficulties encountered by captain
+          Clarke and the main body in ascending the river. The
+          suspicions entertained of captain Lewis by the
+          Shoshonees, and his mode of allaying them. The
+          ravenous appetites of the savages illustrated by
+          singular adventure. The Indians still jealous, and
+          the great pains taken by captain Lewis to preserve
+          their confidence. Captain Clarke arrives with the
+          main body exhausted by the difficulties they
+          underwent.                                            354
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XV.
+
+          Affecting interview between the wife of Chaboneau
+          and the chief of the Shoshonees. Council held with
+          that nation, and favourable result. The extreme
+          navigable point of the Missouri mentioned. General
+          character of the river and of the country through
+          which it passes. Captain Clarke in exploring the
+          source of the Columbia falls in company with another
+          party of Shoshonees. The geographical information
+          acquired from one of that party. Their manner of
+          catching fish. The party reach Lewis river. The
+          difficulties which captain Clarke had to encounter
+          in his route. Friendship and hospitality of the
+          Shoshonees. The party with captain Lewis employed in
+          making saddles, and preparing for the journey.        381
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XVI.
+
+          Contest between Drewyer and a Shoshonee. The
+          fidelity and honour of that tribe. The party set out
+          on their journey. The conduct of Cameahwait
+          reproved, and himself reconciled. The easy
+          parturition of the Shoshonee women. History of this
+          nation. Their terror of the Pawkees. Their
+          government and family economy in their treatment of
+          their women. Their complaints of Spanish treachery.
+          Description of their weapons of warfare. Their
+          curious mode of making a shield. The caparison of
+          their horses. The dress of the men and of the women
+          particularly described. Their mode of acquiring new
+          names.                                                407
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XVII.
+
+          The party, after procuring horses from the
+          Shoshonees, proceed on their journey through the
+          mountains. The difficulties and dangers of the
+          route. A council held with another band of the
+          Shoshonees, of whom some account is given. They are
+          reduced to the necessity of killing their horses for
+          food. Captain Clarke with a small party precedes the
+          main body in quest of food, and is hospitably
+          received by the Pierced-nose Indians. Arrival of the
+          main body amongst this tribe, with whom a council is
+          held. They resolve to perform the remainder of their
+          journey in canoes. Sickness of the party. They
+          descend the Kooskooskee to its junction with Lewis
+          river, after passing several dangerous rapids. Short
+          description of the manners and dress of the
+          Pierced-nose Indians.                                 435
+
+
+
+
+                      LEWIS AND CLARKE'S EXPEDITION
+
+                             UP THE MISSOURI.
+
+                                CHAP. I.
+
+     The party set out on the expedition and pass Wood
+     river--Description of the town of St. Charles--Osage Woman
+     river--Gasconade and Osage Rivers described--Character of the
+     Osage Indians--Curious traditionary account of their Origin--The
+     party proceed and pass the Mine river--The two Charitons--The
+     Kanzas, Nodawa, Newahaw, Neeshnabatona, Little Nemahar, each of
+     which are particularly described--They encamp at the mouth of the
+     river Platte--A particular description of the surrounding
+     country--The various Creeks, Bays, Islands, Prairies, &c., given
+     in the course of the route.
+
+
+On the acquisition of Louisiana, in the year 1803, the attention of the
+government of the United States, was early directed towards exploring
+and improving the new territory. Accordingly in the summer of the same
+year, an expedition was planned by the president for the purpose of
+discovering the courses and sources of the Missouri, and the most
+convenient water communication thence to the Pacific ocean. His private
+secretary captain Meriwether Lewis, and captain William Clarke, both
+officers of the army of the United States, were associated in the
+command of this enterprize. After receiving the requisite instructions,
+captain Lewis left the seat of government, and being joined by captain
+Clarke at Louisville, in Kentucky, proceeded to St. Louis, where they
+arrived in the month of December. Their original* intention was to pass
+the winter at La Charrette, the highest settlement on the Missouri. But
+the Spanish commandant of the province, not having received an official
+account of its transfer to the United States, was obliged by the general
+policy of his government, to prevent strangers from passing through the
+Spanish territory. They therefore encamped at the mouth of Wood river,
+on the eastern side of the Mississippi, out of his jurisdiction, where
+they passed the winter in disciplining the men, and making the necessary
+preparations for setting out early in the Spring, before which the
+cession was officially announced. The party consisted of nine young men
+from Kentucky, fourteen soldiers of the United States army who
+volunteered their services, two French watermen--an interpreter and
+hunter--and a black servant belonging to captain Clarke--All these,
+except the last, were enlisted to serve as privates during the
+expedition, and three sergeants appointed from amongst them by the
+captains. In addition to these were engaged a corporal and six soldiers,
+and nine watermen to accompany the expedition as far as the Mandan
+nation, in order to assist in carrying the stores, or repelling an
+attack which was most to be apprehended between Wood river and that
+tribe. The necessary stores were subdivided into seven bales, and one
+box, containing a small portion of each article in case of accident.
+They consisted of a great variety of clothing, working utensils, locks,
+flints, powder, ball, and articles of the greatest use. To these were
+added fourteen bales and one box of Indian presents, distributed in the
+same manner, and composed of richly laced coats and other articles of
+dress, medals, flags, knives, and tomahawks for the chiefs--ornaments of
+different kinds, particularly beads, lookingglasses, handkerchiefs,
+paints, and generally such articles as were deemed best calculated for
+the taste of the Indians. The party was to embark on board of three
+boats: the first was a keel boat fifty-five feet long, drawing three
+feet water, carrying one large squaresail and twenty-two oars, a deck of
+ten feet in the bow, and stern formed a forecastle and cabin, while the
+middle was covered by lockers, which might be raised so as to form a
+breast-work in case of attack. This was accompanied by two perioques or
+open boats, one of six and the other of seven oars. Two horses were at
+the same time to be led along the banks of the river for the purpose of
+bringing home game, or hunting in case of scarcity.
+
+Of the proceedings of this expedition, the following is a succinct and
+circumstantial narrative.
+
+All the preparations being completed, we left our encampment on Monday,
+May 14th, 1804. This spot is at the mouth of Wood river, a small stream
+which empties itself into the Mississippi, opposite to the entrance of
+the Missouri. It is situated in latitude 38° 55' 19-6/10" north, and
+longitude from Greenwich, 89° 57' 45". On both sides of the Mississippi
+the land for two or three miles is rich and level, but gradually swells
+into a high pleasant country, with less timber on the western than on
+the eastern side, but all susceptible of cultivation. The point which
+separates the two rivers on the north, extends for fifteen or twenty
+miles, the greater part of which is an open level plain, in which the
+people of the neighbourhood cultivate what little grain they raise. Not
+being able to set sail before four o'clock P.M., we did not make more
+than four miles, and encamped on the first island opposite a small creek
+called Cold Water.
+
+May 15. The rain, which had continued yesterday and last night, ceased
+this morning. We then proceeded, and after passing two small islands
+about ten miles further, stopped for the night at Piper's landing,
+opposite another island. The water is here very rapid and the banks
+falling in. We found that our boat was too heavily laden in the stern,
+in consequence of which she ran on logs three times to-day. It became
+necessary to throw the greatest weight on the bow of the boat, a
+precaution very necessary in ascending both the Missouri and
+Mississippi rivers, in the beds of which, there lie great quantities of
+concealed timber.
+
+The next morning we set sail at five o'clock. At the distance of a few
+miles, we passed a remarkable large coal hill on the north side, called
+by the French La Charbonniere, and arrived at the town of St. Charles.
+Here we remained a few days.
+
+St. Charles is a small town on the north bank of the Missouri, about
+twenty-one miles from its confluence with the Mississippi. It is
+situated in a narrow plain, sufficiently high to protect it from the
+annual risings of the river in the month of June, and at the foot of a
+range of small hills, which have occasioned its being called Petite
+Cote, a name by which it is more known to the French than by that of St.
+Charles. One principal street, about a mile in length and running
+parallel with the river, divides the town, which is composed of nearly
+one hundred small wooden houses, besides a chapel. The inhabitants,
+about four hundred and fifty in number, are chiefly descendants from the
+French of Canada; and, in their manners, they unite all the careless
+gayety, and the amiable hospitality of the best times of France: yet,
+like most of their countrymen in America, they are but ill qualified for
+the rude life of a frontier; not that they are without talent, for they
+possess much natural genius and vivacity; nor that they are destitute of
+enterprize, for their hunting excursions are long, laborious, and
+hazardous: but their exertions are all desultory; their industry is
+without system, and without perseverance. The surrounding country,
+therefore, though rich, is not, in general, well cultivated; the
+inhabitants chiefly subsisting by hunting and trade with the Indians,
+and confine their culture to gardening, in which they excel.
+
+Being joined by captain Lewis, who had been detained by business at St.
+Louis, we again set sail on Monday, May 21st, in the afternoon, but were
+prevented by wind and rain from going more than about three miles, when
+we encamped on the upper point of an island, nearly opposite a creek
+which falls in on the south side.
+
+On the 22d we made about eighteen miles, passing several small farms on
+the bank of the river, a number of islands, and a large creek on the
+south side, called Bonhomme, or Goodman's river. A small number of
+emigrants from the United States have settled on the sides of this
+creek, which are very fertile. We also passed some high lands, and
+encamped, on the north side, near a small creek. Here we met with a camp
+of Kickapoo Indians who had left us at St. Charles, with a promise of
+procuring us some provisions by the time we overtook them. They now made
+us a present of four deer, and we gave them in return two quarts of
+whiskey. This tribe reside on the heads of the Kaskaskia and Illinois
+river, on the other side of the Mississippi, but occasionally hunt on
+the Missouri.
+
+May 23. Two miles from our camp of last night, we reached a river
+emptying itself on the north side, called Osage Woman river. It is about
+thirty yards wide, and has now a settlement of thirty or forty families
+from the United States. About a mile and a half beyond this is a large
+cave, on the south side at the foot of cliffs nearby three hundred feet
+high, overhanging the water, which becomes very swift at this place. The
+cave is one hundred and twenty feet wide, forty feet deep, and twenty
+high, it is known by the name of the Tavern, among the traders who have
+written their names on the rock, and painted some images which command
+the homage of the Indians and French. About a little further we passed a
+small creek called Tavern creek, and encamped on the south side of the
+river, having gone nine miles.
+
+Early the next morning we ascended a very difficult rapid, called the
+Devil's Race Ground, where the current sets for half a mile against some
+projecting rocks on the south side. We were less fortunate in attempting
+a second place of equal difficulty. Passing near the southern shore, the
+bank fell in so fast as to oblige us to cross the river instantly,
+between the northern side and a sandbar which is constantly moving and
+banking with the violence of the current. The boat struck on it, and
+would have upset immediately, if the men had not jumped into the water
+and held her, till the sand washed from under her. We encamped on the
+south side, having ascended ten miles, and the next day, May 25, passed
+on the south side the mouth of Wood river, on the north, two small
+creeks and several islands, and stopped for the night at the entrance of
+a creek on the north side, called by the French La Charrette, ten miles
+from our last encampment, and a little above a small village of the same
+name. It consists of seven small houses, and as many poor families who
+have fixed themselves here for the convenience of trade, and form the
+last establishment of whites on the Missouri. It rained last night, yet
+we found this morning that the river had fallen several inches.
+
+May 26. The wind being favourable we made eighteen miles to-day. We
+passed in the morning several islands, the largest of which is Buffaloe
+island, separated from the southern side by a small channel which
+receives the waters of Buffaloe creek. On the same side is Shepherd's
+creek, a little beyond which we encamped on the northern side. The next
+day we sailed along a large island called Otter island, on the northern
+side, extending nearly ten miles in length, narrow but high in its
+situation, and one of the most fertile in the whole river. Between it
+and the northern shore, three small creeks, one of which has the same
+name with the island, empty themselves. On the southern shore is a creek
+twenty yards wide, called Ash creek. In the course of the day we met two
+canoes loaded with furs, which had been two months on their route, from
+the Mahar nation, residing more than seven hundred miles up the
+river--one large raft from the Pawnees on the river Platte, and three
+others from the Grand Osage river. At the distance of fifteen miles we
+encamped on a willow island, at the entrance of the river Gasconade.
+This river falls into the Missouri from the south, one hundred miles
+from the Mississippi. Its length is about one hundred and fifty miles in
+a course generally northeast through a hilly country. On its banks are a
+number of saltpetre caves, and it is believed some mines of lead in the
+vicinity. Its width at the mouth is one hundred and fifty-seven yards,
+and its depth nineteen feet.
+
+Here we halted for the purpose of hunting and drying our provisions, and
+making the necessary celestial observations. This being completed, we
+set sail on the 29th at four o'clock, and at four miles distance
+encamped on the south-side, above a small creek, called Deer creek. The
+next day, 30th, we set out early, and at two miles distant reached a
+large cave, on the north, called Montbrun's tavern, after a French
+trader of that name, just above a creek called after the same person.
+Beyond this is a large island, and at the distance of four miles, Rush
+creek coming in from the south, at eleven, Big-muddy river on the north,
+about fifty yards wide; three miles further, is Little-muddy river on
+the same side, opposite to which we encamped at the mouth of Grindstone
+creek. The rain which began last night continued through the day,
+accompanied with high wind and some hail. The river has been rising fast
+for two days, and the country around appears full of water. Along the
+sides of the river to day we observe much timber, the cotton wood, the
+sycamore, hickory, white walnut, some grapevines, and rushes--the high
+west wind and rain compelled us to remain all the next day, May 31. In
+the afternoon a boat came down from the Grand Osage river, bringing a
+letter from a person sent to the Osage nation on the Arkansaw river,
+which mentioned that the letter announcing the cession of Louisiana was
+committed to the flames--that the Indians would not believe that the
+Americans were owners of that country, and disregarded St. Louis and its
+supplies. The party was occupied in hunting, in the course of which,
+they caught in the woods several very large rats. We set sail early the
+next morning, June 1st, and at six miles distant passed Bear creek, a
+stream of about twenty-five yards width; but the wind being ahead and
+the current rapid, we were unable to make more than thirteen miles to
+the mouth of the Osage river; where we encamped and remained the
+following day, for the purpose of making celestial observations. The
+Osage river empties itself into the Missouri, at one hundred and
+thirty-three miles distance from the mouth of the latter river. Its
+general course is west and west southwest through a rich and level
+country. At the junction the Missouri is about eight hundred and
+seventy-five yards wide, and the Osage three hundred and ninety-seven.
+The low point of junction is in latitude 38° 31' 16", and at a short
+distance from it is a high commanding position, whence we enjoyed a
+delightful prospect of the country.
+
+The Osage river gives or owes its name to a nation inhabiting its banks
+at a considerable distance from this place. Their present name however,
+seems to have originated from the French traders, for both among
+themselves and their neighbours they are called the Wasbashas. They
+number between twelve and thirteen hundred warriors, and consist of
+three tribes: the Great Osages of about five hundred warriors, living in
+a village on the south bank of the river--the Little Osages, of nearly
+half that number, residing at the distance of six miles from them--and
+the Arkansaw band, a colony of Osages, of six hundred warriors, who left
+them some years ago, under the command of a chief called the Bigfoot,
+and settled on the Vermillion river, a branch of the Arkansaw. In person
+the Osages are among the largest and best formed Indians, and are said
+to possess fine military capacities; but residing as they do in
+villages, and having made considerable advance in agriculture, they seem
+less addicted to war, than their northern neighbours, to whom the use of
+rifles gives a great superiority. Among the peculiarities of this
+people, there is nothing more remarkable than the tradition relative to
+their origin. According to universal belief, the founder of the nation
+was a snail passing a quiet existence along the banks of the Osage, till
+a high flood swept him down to the Missouri, and left him exposed on the
+shore. The heat of the sun at length ripened him into a man, but with
+the change of his nature, he had not forgotten his native seats on the
+Osage, towards which, he immediately bent his way. He was however soon
+overtaken by hunger, and fatigue, when happily the Great Spirit
+appeared, and giving him a bow and arrow, showed him how to kill and
+cook deer, and cover himself with the skin. He then proceeded to his
+original residence, but as he approached the river, he was met by a
+beaver, who inquired haughtily who he was, and by what authority he came
+to disturb his possession. The Osage answered that the river was his
+own, for he had once lived on its borders. As they stood disputing, the
+daughter of the beaver came, and having by her entreaties reconciled her
+father to this young stranger, it was proposed that the Osage should
+marry the young beaver, and share with her family the enjoyment of the
+river. The Osage readily consented, and from this happy union there soon
+came the village and the nation of the Wasbasha, or Osages, who have
+ever since preserved a pious reverence for their ancestors, abstaining
+from the chace of the beaver, because in killing that animal, they
+killed a brother of the Osage. Of late years, however, since the trade
+with the whites has rendered beaver skins more valuable, the sanctity of
+these maternal relatives has visibly reduced, and the poor animals have
+nearly lost all the privileges of kindred.
+
+On the afternoon of June 3, we proceeded, and at three miles distant,
+reached a creek called Cupboard creek, from a rock of that appearance
+near its entrance. Two miles further we encamped at Moreau creek, a
+stream of twenty yards width, on the southern side. The next morning, we
+passed at an early hour, Cedar island on the north, so called from the
+abundance of the tree of that name; near which is a small creek, named
+Nightingale creek, from a bird of that species, who sang for us during
+the night. Beyond Cedar island, are some others of a smaller extent, and
+at seven miles distance a creek fifteen or twenty yards wide, entering
+from the north, and known by the name of Cedar creek. At seven and a
+half miles further, we passed on the south side another creek, which we
+called Mast creek, from the circumstance of our mast being broken by
+running under a concealed tree; a little above is another creek on the
+left, one mile beyond which we encamped on the southern shore under high
+projecting cliffs. The French had reported that lead ore was to be found
+in this place, but on examining the hills, we could discern no
+appearance of that mineral. Along the river on the south, is a low land
+covered with rushes, and high nettles, and near the mouths of the
+creeks, supplied with oak, ash, and walnut timber. On the north the land
+is rich and well situated. We made seventeen and a half miles this day.
+The river is falling slowly. We continued our route the next morning
+early: a small creek called Lead creek, on the south; another on the
+north, known to the French by the name of Little Good Woman's creek, and
+again Big Rock creek on the south were the only streams we passed this
+morning. At eleven o'clock we met a raft made of two canoes joined
+together, in which two French traders were descending, from eighty
+leagues up the river Kanzas, where they had wintered, and caught great
+quantities of beaver, but had lost much of their game by fires from the
+prairies. They told us that the Kanzas nation is now hunting buffaloe in
+the plains, having passed the last winter in this river. Two miles
+further, we reached on the south Little Manitou creek, which takes its
+name from a strange figure resembling the bust of a man, with the horns
+of a stag, painted on a projecting rock, which may represent some spirit
+or deity. Near this is a sandbar extending several miles, which renders
+the navigation difficult, and a small creek called Sand creek on the
+south, where we stopped for dinner, and gathered wild cresses and tongue
+grass from the sandbar. The rapidity of the currents added to our having
+broken our mast, prevented our going more than twelve and a half miles.
+The scouts and hunters whom we always kept out, report that they have
+seen fresh tracks of Indians. The next morning we left our camp, which
+was on the south side, opposite to a large island in the middle of the
+river, and at five miles reached a creek on the north side, of about
+twenty yards wide, called Split Rock creek, from a fissure in the point
+of a neighbouring rock. Three miles beyond this, on the south is Saline
+river, it is about thirty yards wide, and has its name from the number
+of salt licks, and springs, which render its water brackish; the river
+is very rapid and the banks falling in. After leaving Saline creek, we
+passed one large island and several smaller ones, having made fourteen
+miles. The water rose a foot during the last night.
+
+The next day, June 7, we passed at four and a half miles Big Manitou
+creek, near which is a limestone rock inlaid with flint of various
+colours, and embellished, or at least covered with uncouth paintings of
+animals and inscriptions. We landed to examine it, but found the place
+occupied by a nest of rattlesnakes, of which we killed three. We also
+examined some licks and springs of salt water, two or three miles up
+this creek. We then proceeded by some small willow islands, and encamped
+at the mouth of Good Woman river on the north. It is about thirty-five
+yards wide, and said to be navigable for boats several leagues. The
+hunters, who had hitherto given us only deer, brought in this evening
+three bears, and had seen some indication of buffaloe. We had come
+fourteen miles.
+
+June 8, we saw several small willow islands, and a creek on the south,
+near which are a number of deerlicks; at nine miles distance we came to
+Mine river. This river, which falls into the Missouri from the south,
+is said to be navigable for boats eighty or ninety miles, and is about
+seventy yards wide at its mouth. It forks about five or six leagues from
+the Missouri, and at the point of junction are some very rich salt
+springs; the west branch in particular, is so much impregnated, that,
+for twenty miles, the water is not palatable: several branches of the
+Manitou and Good Woman are equally tinctured. The French report also,
+that lead ore has been found on different parts of the river. We made
+several excursions near the river through the low rich country on its
+banks, and after dinner went on to the island of Mills, where we
+encamped. We met with a party of three hunters from the Sioux river;
+they had been out for twelve months, and collected about nine hundred
+dollars worth of peltries and furs. We ascended this river twelve miles.
+
+On the 9th, we set out early, and reached a cliff of rocks, called the
+Arrow Rock, near to which is a prairie called the Prairies of Arrows,
+and Arrow creek, a small stream about eight yards wide, whose source is
+in the adjoining prairies on the south. At this cliff the Missouri is
+confined within a bed of two hundred yards; and about four miles to the
+south east is a large lick and salt spring of great strength. About
+three miles further is Blackbird creek on the north side, opposite to
+which, is an island and a prairie inclosing a small lake. Five miles
+beyond this we encamped on the south side, after making, in the course
+of the day, thirteen miles. The land on the north is a high rich plain.
+On the south it is also even, of a good quality, and rising from fifty
+to one hundred feet.
+
+The next morning, 10th, we passed Deer creek, and at the distance of
+five miles, the two rivers called by the French the two Charatons, a
+corruption of Thieraton, the first of which is thirty, the second
+seventy yards wide, and enter the Missouri together. They are both
+navigable for boats: the country through which they pass is broken,
+rich, and thickly covered with timber. The Ayauway nation, consisting
+of three hundred men, have a village near its head-waters on the river
+De Moines. Farther on we passed a large island called _Chicot_ or Stump
+Island, and encamped on the south, after making ten miles. A head wind
+forced us to remain there all the next day, during which we dried the
+meat we had killed, and examined the surrounding country, which consists
+of good land, well watered, and supplied with timber: the prairies also
+differ from those eastward of the Mississippi, inasmuch as the latter
+are generally without any covering except grass, whilst the former
+abound with hazel, grapes and other fruits, among which is the Osage
+plum of a superior size and quality. On the morning of the 12th, we
+passed through difficult places in the river, and reached Plum creek on
+the south side. At one o'clock, we met two rafts loaded, the one with
+furs, the other with the tallow of buffaloe; they were from the Sioux
+nation, and on their way to St. Louis; but we were fortunate enough to
+engage one of them, a Mr. Durion, who had lived with that nation more
+than twenty years, and was high in their confidence, to accompany us
+thither. We made nine miles. On the 13th, we passed at between four and
+five miles, a bend of the river, and two creeks on the north, called the
+Round Bend creeks. Between these two creeks is the prairie, in which
+once stood the ancient village of the Missouris. Of this village there
+remains no vestige, nor is there any thing to recall this great and
+numerous nation, except a feeble remnant of about thirty families. They
+were driven from their original seats by the invasions of the Sauks and
+other Indians from the Mississippi, who destroyed at this village two
+hundred of them in one contest, and sought refuge near the Little Osage,
+on the other side of the river. The encroachment of the same enemies
+forced, about thirty years since, both these nations from the banks of
+the Missouri. A few retired with the Osage, and the remainder found an
+asylum on the river Platte, among the Ottoes, who are themselves
+declining. Opposite the plain there was an island and a French fort,
+but there is now no appearance of either, the successive inundations
+having probably washed them away, as the willow island which is in the
+situation described by Du Pratz, is small and of recent formation. Five
+miles from this place is the mouth of Grand River, where we encamped.
+This river follows a course nearly south, or south east, and is between
+eighty and a hundred yards wide where it enters the Missouri, near a
+delightful and rich plain. A racoon, a bear, and some deer were obtained
+to day. We proceeded at six o'clock the next morning. The current was so
+rapid and the banks on the north falling in so constantly, that we were
+obliged to approach the sandbars on the south. These were moving
+continually, and formed the worst passage we had seen, and which we
+surmounted with much difficulty. We met a trading raft from the Pawnee
+nation on the river Platte, and attempted unsuccessfully to engage one
+of their party to return with us. At the distance of eight miles, we
+came to some high cliffs, called the Snake bluffs, from the number of
+that animal in the neighbourhood, and immediately above these bluffs,
+Snake creek, about eighteen yards wide, on which we encamped. One of our
+hunters, a half Indian, brought us an account of his having to day
+passed a small lake, near which a number of deer were feeding, and in
+the pond he heard a snake making a guttural noise like a turkey. He
+fired his gun, but the noise became louder. He adds, that he has heard
+the Indians mention this species of snake, and this story is confirmed
+by a Frenchman of our party. All the next day, the river being very
+high, the sandbars were so rolling and numerous, and the current so
+strong, that we were unable to stem it even with oars added to our
+sails; this obliged us to go nearer the banks, which were falling in, so
+that we could not make, though the boat was occasionally towed, more
+than fourteen miles. We passed several islands and one creek on the
+south side, and encamped on the north opposite a beautiful plain, which
+extends as far back as the Osage river, and some miles up the Missouri.
+In front of our encampment are the remains of an old village of the
+Little Osage, situated at some distance from the river, and at the foot
+of a small hill. About three miles above them, in view of our camp is
+the situation of the old village of the Missouris after they fled from
+the Sauks. The inroads of the same tribe compelled the Little Osage to
+retire from the Missouri a few years ago, and establish themselves near
+the Great Osages. The river, which is here about one mile wide, had
+risen in the morning, but fell towards evening. Early this morning, June
+16th, we joined the camp of our hunters, who had provided two deer and
+two bear, and then passing an island and a prairie on the north covered
+with a species of timothy, made our way through bad sandbars and a swift
+current, to an encampment for the evening, on the north side, at ten
+miles distance. The timber which we examined to day was not sufficiently
+strong for oars; the musquitoes and ticks are exceedingly troublesome.
+On the 17th, we set out early and having come to a convenient place at
+one mile distance, for procuring timber and making oars, we occupied
+ourselves in that way on this and the following day. The country on the
+north of the river is rich and covered with timber; among which we
+procured the ash for oars. At two miles it changes into extensive
+prairies, and at seven or eight miles distance becomes higher and
+waving. The prairie and high lands on the south commence more
+immediately on the river; the whole is well watered and provided with
+game, such as deer, elk, and bear. The hunters brought in a fat horse
+which was probably lost by some war party--this being the crossing place
+for the Sauks, Ayauways, and Sioux, in their excursions against the
+Osage.
+
+June 19, the oars being finished, we proceeded under a gentle breeze by
+two large and some smaller islands. The sandbars are numerous and so
+bad, that at one place we were forced to clear away the driftwood in
+order to pass: the water too was so rapid that we were under the
+necessity of towing the boat for half a mile round a point of rocks on
+the south side. We passed two creeks, one called Tiger creek on the
+north, twenty-five yards wide at the extremity of a large island called
+Panther Island; the other Tabo creek on the south, fifteen yards wide.
+Along the shores are gooseberries and raspberries in great abundance. At
+the distance of seventeen and a half miles we encamped on the south,
+near a lake about two miles from the river and several in circumference;
+and much frequented by deer and all kinds of fowls. On the north the
+land is higher and better calculated for farms than that on the south,
+which ascends more gradually, but is still rich and pleasant. The
+musquitoes and other animals are so troublesome that musquitoe biers or
+nets were distributed to the party. The next morning we passed a large
+island, opposite to which on the north is a large and beautiful prairie,
+called Sauk prairie, the land being fine and well timbered on both sides
+the river. Pelicans were seen to day. We made six and three quarter
+miles, and encamped at the lower point of a small island, along the
+north side of which we proceeded the next day, June 21st, but not
+without danger in consequence of the sands and the rapidity of the water
+which rose three inches last night. Behind another island come in from
+the south two creeks, called Eau, Beau, or Clear Water creeks; on the
+north is a very remarkable bend, where the high lands approach the
+river, and form an acute angle at the head of a large island produced by
+a narrow channel through the point of the bend. We passed several other
+islands, and encamped at seven and a half miles on the south.
+
+22d. The river rose during the night four inches. The water is very
+rapid and crowded with concealed timber. We passed two large islands and
+an extensive prairie on the south, beginning with a rich low land, and
+rising to the distance of seventy or eighty feet of rolling clear
+country. The thermometer at three o'clock P.M. was at 87°. After coming
+ten and a half miles we encamped on the south, opposite a large creek
+called Fire Prairie river.
+
+23d. The wind was against us this morning, and became so violent that we
+made only three and a half miles, and were obliged to lie to during the
+day at a small island. This is separated from the northern side by a
+narrow channel which cannot be passed by boats, being choaked by trees
+and drifted wood. Directly opposite on the south, is a high commanding
+position, more than seventy feet above high water mark, and overlooking
+the river which is here of but little width; this spot has many
+advantages for a fort, and trading house with the Indians.[A] The river
+fell eight inches last night.
+
+[Footnote A: The United States built in September, 1808, a factory and
+fort at this spot, which is very convenient for trading with the Osages,
+Ayauways and Kanzas.]
+
+The next day, 24th, we passed at eight miles distance, Hay Cabin creek
+coming in from the south, about twenty yards wide, and so called from
+camps of straw built on it; to the north are some rocks projecting into
+the river, and a little beyond them a creek on the same side, called
+Charaton Scarty; that is, Charaton like the Otter. We halted, after
+making eleven and a half miles, the country on both sides being fine and
+interspersed with prairies, in which we now see numerous herds of deer,
+pasturing in the plains or feeding on the young willows of the river.
+
+25th. A thick fog detained us till eight o'clock, when we set sail, and
+at three miles reached a bank of stone coal on the north, which appeared
+to be very abundant: just below it is a creek called after the bank La
+Charbonniere. Four miles further, and on the southern side, comes in a
+small creek, called La Benite. The prairies here approach the river and
+contain many fruits, such as plums, raspberries, wild apples, and nearer
+the river vast quantities of mulberries. Our encampment was at thirteen
+miles distance on an island to the north, opposite some hills higher
+than usual, and almost one hundred and sixty or one hundred and eighty
+feet. 26th. At one mile we passed at the end of a small island, Blue
+Water creek, which is about thirty yards wide at its entrance from the
+south.[A] Here the Missouri is confined within a narrow bed, and the
+current still more so by counter currents or whirls on one side and a
+high bank on the other. We passed a small island and a sandbar, where
+our tow rope broke twice, and we rowed round with great exertions. We
+saw a number of parroquets, and killed some deer; after nine and three
+quarter miles we encamped at the upper point of the mouth of the river
+Kanzas: here we remained two days, during which we made the necessary
+observations, recruited the party, and repaired the boat. The river
+Kanzas takes its rise in the plains between the Arkansaw and Platte
+rivers, and pursues a course generally east till its junction with the
+Missouri which is in latitude 38° 31' 13"; here it is three hundred and
+forty and a quarter yards wide, though it is wider a short distance
+above the mouth. The Missouri itself is about five hundred yards in
+width; the point of union is low and subject to inundations for two
+hundred and fifty yards, it then rises a little above high water mark,
+and continues so as far back as the hills. On the south of the Kanzas
+the hills or highlands come within one mile and a half of the river; on
+the north of the Missouri they do not approach nearer than several
+miles; but on all sides the country is fine. The comparative specific
+gravities of the two rivers is, for the Missouri seventy-eight, the
+Kanzas seventy-two degrees; the waters of the latter have a very
+disagreeable taste, the former has risen during yesterday and to day
+about two feet. On the banks of the Kanzas reside the Indians of the
+same name, consisting of two villages, one at about twenty, the other
+forty leagues from its mouth, and amounting to about three hundred men.
+They once lived twenty-four leagues higher than the Kanzas, on the south
+bank of the Missouri, and were then more numerous, but they have been
+reduced and banished by the Sauks and Ayauways, who being better
+supplied with arms have an advantage over the Kanzas, though the latter
+are not less fierce or warlike than themselves. This nation is now
+hunting in the plains for the buffaloe which our hunters have seen for
+the first time.
+
+[Footnote A: A few miles up the Blue Water Creek are quarries of plaster
+of paris, since worked and brought down to St. Louis.]
+
+On the 29th, we set out late in the afternoon, and having passed a
+sandbar, near which the boat was almost lost, and a large island on the
+north, we encamped at seven and a quarter miles on the same side in the
+low lands, where the rushes are so thick that it is troublesome to walk
+through them. Early the next morning, 30th, we reached, at five miles
+distance, the mouth of a river coming in from the north, and called by
+the French, Petite Riviere Platte, or Little Shallow river; it is about
+sixty yards wide at its mouth. A few of the party who ascended informed
+us, that the lands on both sides are good, and that there are several
+falls well calculated for mills; the wind was from the south west, and
+the weather oppressively warm, the thermometer standing at 96° above at
+three o'clock P.M. One mile beyond this is a small creek on the south,
+at five miles from which we encamped on the same side, opposite the
+lower point of an island called Diamond island. The land on the north
+between the Little Shallow river, and the Missouri is not good and
+subject to overflow--on the south it is higher and better timbered.
+
+July 1st. We proceeded along the north side of Diamond island, where a
+small creek called Biscuit creek empties itself. One and a half miles
+above the island is a large sandbar in the middle of the river, beyond
+which we stopped to refresh the men, who suffered very much from the
+heat. Here we observed great quantities of grapes and raspberries.
+Between one and two miles farther are three islands a creek on the
+south known by the French name of Remore. The main current which is now
+on the south side of the largest of the three islands, ran three years,
+as we were told on the north, and there was then no appearance of the
+two smaller islands. At the distance of four and a half miles we reached
+the lower point of a cluster of small islands, two large and two small,
+called Isles des Pares or Field Islands. Paccaun trees were this day
+seen, and large quantities of deer and turkies on the banks. We had
+advanced twelve miles.
+
+July 2d. We left our encampment, opposite to which is a high and
+beautiful prairie on the southern side, and passed up the south of the
+islands, which are high meadows, and a creek on the north called Pare
+creek. Here for half an hour the river became covered with drift wood,
+which rendered the navigation dangerous, and was probably caused by the
+giving way of some sandbar, which had detained the wood. After making
+five miles we passed a stream on the south called Turky creek, near a
+sandbar, where we could scarcely stem the current with twenty oars, and
+all the poles we had. On the north at about two miles further is a large
+island called by the Indians, Wau-car-da-war-card-da, or the Bear
+Medicine island. Here we landed and replaced our mast, which had been
+broken three days ago, by running against a tree, overhanging the river.
+Thence we proceeded, and after night stopped on the north side, above
+the island, having come eleven and a half miles. Opposite our camp is a
+valley, in which was situated an old village of the Kanzas, between two
+high points of land, and on the bank of the river. About a mile in the
+rear of the village was a small fort, built by the French on an
+elevation. There are now no traces of the village, but the situation of
+the fort may be recognized by some remains of chimnies, and the general
+outline of the fortification, as well as by the fine spring which
+supplied it with water. The party, who were stationed here, were
+probably cut off by the Indians, as there are no accounts of them.
+
+July 3d. A gentle breeze from the south carried us eleven and a quarter
+miles this day, past two islands, one a small willow island, the other
+large, and called by the French Isle des Vaches, or Cow island. At the
+head of this island, on the northern shore, is a large pond containing
+beaver, and fowls of different kinds. After passing a bad sandbar, we
+stopped on the south side at an old trading house, which is now
+deserted, and half a mile beyond it encamped on the south. The land is
+fine along the rivers, and some distance back. We observed the black
+walnut and oak, among the timber; and the honey-suckle and the
+buck's-eye, with the nuts on them.
+
+The morning of the 4th July was announced by the discharge of our gun.
+At one mile we reached the mouth of a bayeau or creek, coming from a
+large lake on the north side, which appears as if it had once been the
+bed of the river, to which it runs parallel for several miles. The water
+of it is clear and supplied by a small creek and several springs, and
+the number of goslins which we saw on it, induced us to call it the
+Gosling lake. It is about three quarters of a mile wide, and seven or
+eight miles long. One of our men was bitten by a snake, but a poultice
+of bark and gunpowder was sufficient to cure the wound. At ten and a
+quarter miles we reached a creek on the south about twelve yards wide
+and coming from an extensive prairie, which approached the borders of
+the river. To this creek which had no name, we gave that of Fourth of
+July creek; above it is a high mound, where three Indian paths centre,
+and from which is a very extensive prospect. After fifteen miles sail we
+came to on the north a little above a creek on the southern side, about
+thirty yards wide, which we called Independence creek, in honour of the
+day, which we could celebrate only by an evening gun, and an additional
+gill of whiskey to the men.
+
+The next day, 5th, we crossed over to the south and came along the bank
+of an extensive and beautiful prairie, interspersed with copses of
+timber, and watered by Independence creek. On this bank formerly stood
+the second village of the Kanzas; from the remains it must have been
+once a large town. We passed several bad sandbars, and a small creek to
+the south, which we called Yellow Ochre creek, from a bank of that
+mineral a little above it. The river continues to fall. On the shores
+are great quantities of summer and fall grapes, berries and wild roses.
+Deer is not so abundant as usual, but there are numerous tracks of elk
+around us. We encamped at ten miles distance on the south side under a
+high bank, opposite to which was a low land covered with tall rushes,
+and some timber.
+
+July 6. We set sail, and at one mile passed a sandbar, three miles
+further an island, a prairie to the north, at the distance of four miles
+called Reevey's prairie, after a man who was killed there; at which
+place the river is confined to a very narrow channel, and by a sandbar
+from the south. Four miles beyond is another sandbar terminated by a
+small willow island, and forming a very considerable bend in the river
+towards the north. The sand of the bar is light, intermixed with small
+pebbles and some pit coal. The river falls slowly, and, owing either to
+the muddiness of its water, or the extreme heat of the weather, the men
+perspire profusely. We encamped on the south having made twelve miles.
+The bird called whip-poor-will sat on the boat for some time.
+
+In the morning, July 7th, the rapidity of the water obliged us to draw
+the boat along with ropes. At six and three quarter miles, we came to a
+sandbar, at a point opposite a fine rich prairie on the north, called
+St. Michael's. The prairies of this neighbourhood have the appearance of
+distinct farms, divided by narrow strips of woodland, which follow the
+borders of the small runs leading to the river. Above this, about a
+mile, is a cliff of yellow clay on the north. At four o'clock we passed
+a narrow part of the channel, where the water is confined within a bed
+of two hundred yards wide, the current running directly against the
+southern bank with no sand on the north to confine it or break its
+force. We made fourteen miles, and halted on the north, after which we
+had a violent gust about seven o'clock. One of the hunters saw in a pond
+to the north which we passed yesterday a number of young swans. We saw a
+large rat, and killed a wolf. Another of our men had a stroke of the
+sun; he was bled, and took a preparation of nitre which relieved him
+considerably.
+
+July 8. We set out early, and soon passed a small creek on the north,
+which we called Ordway's creek, from our sergeant of that name who had
+been sent on shore with the horses, and went up it. On the same side are
+three small islands, one of which is the Little Nodawa, and a large
+island called the Great Nodawa* extending more than five miles, and
+containing seven or eight thousand acres of high good land, rarely
+overflowed, and one of the largest islands of the Missouri. It is
+separated from the northern shore by a small channel of from forty-five
+to eighty yards wide, up which we passed, and found near the western
+extremity of the island the mouth of the river Nodawa. This river
+persues nearly a southern course, is navigable for boats to some
+distance, and about seventy yards wide above the mouth, though not so
+wide immediately there, as the mud from the Missouri contracts its
+channel. At twelve and a quarter miles, we encamped on the north side,
+near the head of Nodawa island, and opposite a smaller one in the middle
+of the river. Five of the men were this day sick with violent headache.
+The river continues to fall.
+
+July 9th. We passed the island opposite to which we last night encamped,
+and saw near the head of it a creek falling in from a pond on the north,
+to which we gave the name of Pike pond, from the numbers of that animal
+which some of our party saw from the shore. The wind changed at eight
+from N.E. to S.W. and brought rain. At six miles we passed the mouth of
+Monter's creek on the south, and two miles above a few cabins, where one
+of our party had encamped with some Frenchmen about two years ago.
+Further on we passed an island on the north, opposite some cliffs on the
+south side, near which Loup or Wolf river falls into the Missouri. This
+river is about sixty yards wide, it heads near the same sources as the
+Kanzas, and is navigable for boats, at some distance up. At fourteen
+miles we encamped on the south side.
+
+Tuesday 10th. We proceeded on by a prairie on the upper side of Wolf
+river, and at four miles passed a creek fifteen yards wide on the south,
+called Pape's creek after a Spaniard of that name, who killed himself
+there. At six miles we dined on an island called by the French Isle de
+Salomon, or Solomon's island, opposite to which on the south is a
+beautiful plain covered with grass, intermixed with wild rye and a kind
+of wild potatoe. After making ten miles we stopped for the night on the
+northern side, opposite a cliff of yellow clay. The river has neither
+risen nor fallen to day. On the north the low land is very extensive,
+and covered with vines; on the south, the hills approach nearer the
+river, and back of them commence the plains. There are a great many
+goslins along the banks.
+
+Wednesday 11th. After three miles sailing we came to a willow island on
+the north side, behind which enters a creek called by the Indians
+Tarkio. Above this creek on the north the low lands are subject to
+overflow, and further back the undergrowth of vines particularly, is so
+abundant that they can scarcely be passed. Three miles from the Tarkio
+we encamped on a large sand island on the north, immediately opposite
+the river Nemahaw.
+
+Thursday 12th. We remained here to day for the purpose of refreshing the
+party, and making lunar observations. The Nemahaw empties itself into
+the Missouri from the south, and is eighty yards wide at the confluence,
+which is in lat. 39° 55' 56". Capt. Clarke ascended it in the perioque
+about two miles to the mouth of a small creek on the lower side. On
+going ashore he found in the level plain several artificial mounds or
+graves, and on the adjoining hills others of a larger size. This
+appearance indicates sufficiently the former population of this country;
+the mounds being certainly intended as tombs; the Indians of the
+Missouri still preserving the custom of interring the dead on high
+ground. From the top of the highest mound a delightful prospect
+presented itself--the level and extensive meadows watered by the
+Nemahaw, and enlivened by the few trees and shrubs skirting the borders
+of the river and its tributary streams--the lowland of the Missouri
+covered with undulating grass, nearly five feet high, gradually rising
+into a second plain, where rich weeds and flowers are interspersed with
+copses of the Osage plum; further back are seen small groves of trees;
+an abundance of grapes; the wild cherry of the Missouri, resembling our
+own, but larger, and growing on a small bush; and the chokecherry, which
+we observed for the first time. Some of the grapes gathered to-day are
+nearly ripe. On the south of the Nemahaw, and about a quarter of a mile
+from its mouth, is a cliff of freestone, in which are various
+inscriptions and marks made by the Indians. The sand island where we are
+encamped, is covered with the two species of willow, broad and narrow
+leaf.
+
+July 13th. We proceeded at sunrise with a fair wind from the south, and
+at two miles, passed the mouth of a small river on the north, called Big
+Tarkio. A channel from the bed of the Missouri once ran into this river,
+and formed an island called St. Joseph's, but the channel is now filled
+up, and the island is added to the northern shore. Further on to the
+south, is situated an extensive plain, covered with a grass resembling
+timothy in its general appearance, except the seed which is like
+flaxseed, and also a number of grapevines. At twelve miles, we passed an
+island on the north, above which is a large sandbar covered with
+willows: and at twenty and a half miles, stopped on a large sandbar, in
+the middle of the river opposite a high handsome prairie, which extends
+to the hills four or five miles distant, though near the bank the land
+is low, and subject to be overflowed. This day was exceedingly fine and
+pleasant, a storm of wind and rain from north-northeast, last night,
+having cooled the air.
+
+July 14. We had some hard showers of rain before seven o'clock, when we
+set out. We had just reached the end of the sand island, and seen the
+opposite banks falling in, and so lined with timber that we could not
+approach it without danger, when a sudden squall, from the northeast,
+struck the boat on the starboard quarter, and would have certainly
+dashed her to pieces on the sand island, if the party had not leaped
+into the river, and with the aid of the anchor and cable kept her off:
+the waves dashing over her for the space of forty minutes; after which,
+the river became almost instantaneously calm and smooth. The two
+periogues were ahead, in a situation nearly similar, but fortunately no
+damage was done to the boats or the loading. The wind having shifted to
+the southeast, we came at the distance of two miles, to an inland on the
+north, where we dined. One mile above, on the same side of the river, is
+a small factory, where a merchant of St. Louis traded with the Ottoes
+and Pawnees two years ago. Near this is an extensive lowland, part of
+which is overflowed occasionally, the rest is rich and well timbered.
+The wind again changed to northwest by north. At seven and a half miles,
+we reached lower point of a large island, on the north side. A small
+distance above this point, is a river, called by the Maha Indians,
+Nishnahbatona. This is a considerable creek, nearly as large as the Mine
+river, and runs parallel to the Missouri the greater part of its course,
+being fifty yards wide at the mouth. In the prairies or glades, we saw
+wild-timothy, lambsquarter, cuckleberries, and on the edges of the
+river, summer-grapes, plums, and gooseberries. We also saw to-day, for
+the first time, some elk, at which some of the party shot, but at too
+great a distance. We encamped on the north side of the island, a little
+above Nishnahbatona, having made nine miles. The river fell a little.
+
+July 15. A thick fog prevented our leaving the encampment before seven.
+At about four miles, we reached the extremity of the large island, and
+crossing to the south, at the distance of seven miles, arrived at the
+Little Nemaha, a small river from the south, forty yards wide a little
+above its mouth, but contracting, as do almost all the waters emptying
+into the Missouri, at its confluence. At nine and three quarter miles,
+we encamped on a woody point, on the south. Along the southern bank, is
+a rich lowland covered with peavine, and rich weeds, and watered by
+small streams rising in the adjoining prairies. They too, are rich, and
+though with abundance of grass, have no timber except what grows near
+the water; interspersed through both are grapevines, plums of two kinds,
+two species of wild-cherries, hazlenuts, and gooseberries. On the south
+there is one unbroken plain; on the north the river is skirted with some
+timber, behind which the plain extends four or five miles to the hills,
+which seem to have little wood.
+
+July 16. We continued our route between a large island opposite to our
+last night's encampment, and an extensive prairie on the south. About
+six miles, we came to another large island, called Fairsun island, on
+the same side; above which is a spot, where about twenty acres of the
+hill have fallen into the river. Near this, is a cliff of sandstone for
+two miles, which is much frequented by birds. At this place the river is
+about one mile wide, but not deep; as the timber, or sawyers, may be
+seen, scattered across the whole of its bottom. At twenty miles
+distance, we saw on the south, an island called by the French, l'Isle
+Chance, or Bald island, opposite to a large prairie, which we called
+Baldpated prairie, from a ridge of naked hills which bound it, running
+parallel with the river as far as we could see, and from three to six
+miles distance. To the south the hills touch the river. We encamped a
+quarter of a mile beyond this, in a point of woods on the north side.
+The river continues to fall.
+
+Tuesday, July 17. We remained here this day, in order to make
+observations and correct the chronometer, which ran down on Sunday. The
+latitude we found to be 40° 27' 5"4/10. The observation of the time
+proved our chronometer too slow, by 6' 51"6/10. The highlands bear from
+our camp, north 25° west, up the river. Captain Lewis rode up the
+country, and saw the Nishnahbatona, about ten or twelve miles from its
+mouth, at a place not more than three hundred yards from the Missouri,
+and a little above our camp. It then passes near the foot of the
+Baldhills, and is at least six feet below the level of the Missouri. On
+its banks are the oak, walnut, and mulberry. The common current of the
+Missouri, taken with the log, is 50 fathoms in 40", at some places, and
+even 20".
+
+Wednesday, July 18. The morning was fair, and a gentle wind from
+southeast by south, carried us along between the prairie on the north,
+and Bald island to the south: opposite the middle of which, the
+Nishnahbatona approaches the nearest to the Missouri. The current here
+ran fifty fathoms in 41". At thirteen and a half miles, we reached an
+island on the north, near to which the banks overflow; while on the
+south, the hills project over the river and form high cliffs. At one
+point a part of the cliff, nearly three quarters of a mile in length,
+and about two hundred feet in height, has fallen into the river. It is
+composed chiefly of sandstone intermixed with an iron ore of bad
+quality; near the bottom is a soft slatestone with pebbles. We passed
+several bad sandbars in the course of the day, and made eighteen miles,
+and encamped on the south, opposite to the lower point of the Oven
+islands. The country around is generally divided into prairies, with
+little timber, except on low points, islands, and near creeks, and that
+consisting of cottonwood, mulberry, elm, and sycamore. The river falls
+fast. An Indian dog came to the bank; he appeared to have been lost and
+was nearly starved: we gave him some food, but he would not follow us.
+
+Thursday, July 19. The Oven islands are small, and two in number; one
+near the south shore, the other in the middle of the river. Opposite to
+them is the prairie, called Terrien's Oven, from a trader of that name.
+At four and a half miles, we reached some high cliffs of a yellow earth,
+on the south, near which are two beautiful runs of water, rising in the
+adjacent prairies, and one of them with a deerlick, about two hundred
+yards from its mouth. In this neighbourhood we observed some iron ore in
+the bank. At two and a half miles above the runs, a large portion of the
+hill, for nearly three quarters of a mile, has fallen into the river. We
+encamped on the western extremity of an island, in the middle of the
+river, having made ten and three quarter miles. The river falls a
+little. The sandbars which we passed to-day, are more numerous, and the
+rolling sands more frequent and dangerous, than any we have seen; these
+obstacles increasing as we approach the river Platte. The Missouri here
+is wider also than below, where the timber on the banks resists the
+current; while here the prairies which approach, are more easily washed
+and undermined. The hunters have brought for the last few days, no
+quadruped, but deer: great quantities of young geese are seen to-day:
+one of them brought calamus, which he had gathered opposite our
+encampment, and a large quantity of sweet-flag.
+
+Friday, July 20. There was a heavy dew last night, and this morning was
+foggy and cool. We passed at about three miles distance, a small willow
+island to the north, and a creek on the south, about twenty-five yards
+wide, called by the French, L'eau qui Pleure, or the Weeping Water, and
+emptying itself just above a cliff of brown clay. Thence we made two and
+a half miles to another island; three miles further to a third: six
+miles beyond which is a fourth island; at the head of which we encamped
+on the southern shore; in all eighteen miles. The party, who walked on
+the shore to-day, found the plains to the south, rich, but much parched
+with frequent fires, and with no timber, except the scattering trees
+about the sources of the runs, which are numerous and fine. On the
+north, is a similar prairie country. The river continues to fall. A
+large yellow wolf was this day killed. For a month past the party have
+been troubled with biles, and occasionally with the dysentery. These
+biles were large tumours which broke out under the arms, on the legs,
+and, generally, in the parts most exposed to action, which sometimes
+became too painful to permit the men to work. After remaining some days,
+they disappeared without any assistance, except a poultice of the bark
+of the elm, or of Indian meal. This disorder, which we ascribe to the
+muddiness of the river water, has not affected the general health of the
+party, which is quite as good, if not better, than that of the same
+number of men in any other situation.
+
+Saturday, July 21. We had a breeze from the southeast, by the aid of
+which we passed, at about ten miles, a willow island on the south, near
+high lands covered with timber, at the bank, and formed of limestone
+with cemented shells: on the opposite side is a bad sandbar, and the
+land near it is cut through at high water, by small channels forming a
+number of islands. The wind lulled at seven o'clock, and we reached, in
+the rain, the mouth of the great river Platte, at the distance of
+fourteen miles. The highlands which had accompanied us on the south, for
+the last eight or ten miles, stopped at about three quarters of a mile
+from the entrance of the Platte. Captains Lewis and Clarke ascended the
+river in a periogue, for about one mile, and found the current very
+rapid; rolling over sands, and divided into a number of channels; none
+of which are deeper than five or six feet. One of our Frenchmen, who
+spent two winters on it, says that it spreads much more at some distance
+from the mouth; that its depth is generally not more than five or six
+feet; that there are many small islands scattered through it, and that
+from its rapidity and the quantity of its sand, it cannot be navigated
+by boats or periogues, though the Indians pass it in small flat canoes
+made of hides. That the Saline or Salt river, which in some seasons is
+too brackish to be drank, falls into it from the south about thirty
+miles up, and a little above it Elkhorn river from the north, running
+nearly parallel with the Missouri. The river is, in fact, much more
+rapid than the Missouri, the bed of which it fills with moving sands,
+and drives the current on the northern shore, on which it is constantly
+encroaching. At its junction the Platte is about six hundred yards wide,
+and the same number of miles from the Mississippi. With much difficulty
+we worked round the sandbars near the mouth, and came to above the
+point, having made fifteen miles. A number of wolves were seen and heard
+around us in the evening.
+
+July 22. The next morning we set sail, and having found at the distance
+of ten miles from the Platte, a high and shaded situation on the north,
+we encamped there, intending to make the requisite observations, and to
+send for the neighbouring tribes, for the purpose of making known the
+recent change in the government, and the wish of the United States to
+cultivate their friendship.
+
+
+
+
+                               CHAP. II.
+
+     Some account of the Pawnee Indians--Council held with the Otto and
+     Missouri Indians--Council held with another party of the
+     Ottoes--Death of sergeant Floyd--The party encamp near the mouth of
+     Whitestone river--The character of the Missouri, with the rivers
+     that enter it--The surrounding country--The various islands, bays,
+     creeks, &c. given in the course of the expedition.
+
+
+Our camp is by observation in latitude 41° 3' 11". Immediately behind it
+is a plain about five miles wide, one half covered with wood, the other
+dry and elevated. The low grounds on the south near the junction of the
+two rivers, are rich, but subject to be overflowed. Farther up, the
+banks are higher, and opposite our camp the first hills approach the
+river, and are covered with timber, such as oak, walnut, and elm. The
+intermediate country is watered by the Papillon, or Butterfly creek, of
+about eighteen yards wide, and three miles from the Platte; on the north
+are high open plains and prairies, and at nine miles from the Platte,
+the Musquitoe creek, and two or three small willow islands. We stayed
+here several days, during which we dried our provisions, made new oars,
+and prepared our despatches and maps of the country we had passed, for
+the president of the United States, to whom we intend to send them by a
+periogue from this place. The hunters have found game scarce in this
+neighbourhood; they have seen deer, turkies, and grouse; we have also an
+abundance of ripe grapes; and one of our men caught a white catfish, the
+eyes of which were small, and its tail resembling that of a dolphin. The
+present season is that in which the Indians go out into the prairies to
+hunt the buffaloe; but as we discovered some hunter's tracks, and
+observed the plains on fire in the direction of their villages, we hoped
+that they might have returned to gather the green indian corn, and
+therefore despatched two men to the Ottoes or Pawnee villages with a
+present of tobacco, and an invitation to the chiefs to visit us. They
+returned after two days absence. Their first course was through an open
+prairie to the south, in which they crossed Butterfly creek. They then
+reached a small beautiful river, called Come de Cerf, or Elkhorn river,
+about one hundred yards wide, with clear water and a gravelly channel.
+It empties a little below the Ottoe village into the Platte, which they
+crossed, and arrived at the town about forty-five miles from our camp.
+They found no Indians there, though they saw some fresh tracks of a
+small party. The Ottoes were once a powerful nation, and lived about
+twenty miles above the Platte, on the southern bank of the Missouri.
+Being reduced, they migrated to the neighborhood of the Pawnees, under
+whose protection they now live. Their village is on the south side of
+the Platte, about thirty miles from its mouth; and their number is two
+hundred men, including about thirty families of Missouri Indians, who
+are incorporated with them. Five leagues above them, on the same side of
+the river, resides the nation of Pawnees. This people were among the
+most numerous of the Missouri Indians, but have gradually been dispersed
+and broken, and even since the year 1797, have undergone some sensible
+changes. They now consist of four bands; the first is the one just
+mentioned, of about five hundred men, to whom of late years have been
+added the second band, who are called republican Pawnees, from their
+having lived on the republican branch of the river Kanzas, whence they
+emigrated to join the principal band of Pawnees: the republican Pawnees
+amount to nearly two hundred and fifty men. The third, are the Pawnees
+Loups, or Wolf Pawnees, who reside on the Wolf fork of the Platte, about
+ninety miles from the principal Pawnees, and number two hundred and
+eighty men. The fourth band originally resided on the Kanzas and
+Arkansaw, but in their wars with the Osages, they were so often
+defeated, that they at last retired to their present position on the Red
+river, where they form a tribe of four hundred men. All these tribes
+live in villages, and raise corn; but during the intervals of culture
+rove in the plains in quest of buffaloe.
+
+Beyond them on the river, and westward of the Black mountains, are the
+Kaninaviesch, consisting of about four hundred men. They are supposed to
+have emigrated originally from the Pawnees nation; but they have
+degenerated from the improvements of the parent tribe, and no longer
+live in villages, but rove through the plains.
+
+Still further to the westward, are several tribes, who wander and hunt
+on the sources of the river Platte, and thence to Rock Mountain. These
+tribes, of which little more is known than the names and the population,
+are first, the Staitan, or Kite Indians, a small tribe of one hundred
+men. They have acquired the name of Kites, from their flying; that is,
+their being always on horseback; and the smallness of their numbers is
+to be attributed to their extreme ferocity; they are the most warlike of
+all the western Indians; they never yield in battle; they never spare
+their enemies; and the retaliation of this barbarity has almost
+extinguished the nation. Then come the Wetapahato, and Kiawa tribes,
+associated together, and amounting to two hundred men; the Castahana, of
+three hundred men, to which are to be added the Cataka of seventy-five
+men, and the Dotami. These wandering tribes, are conjectured to be the
+remnants of the Great Padouca nation, who occupied the country between
+the upper parts of the river Platte, and the river Kanzas. They were
+visited by Bourgemont, in 1724, and then lived on the Kanzas river. The
+seats, which he describes as their residence, are now occupied by the
+Kanzas nation; and of the Padoucas, there does not now exist even the
+name.
+
+July 27. Having completed the object of our stay, we set sail, with a
+pleasant breeze from the N.W. The two horses swam over to the southern
+shore, along which we went, passing by an island, at three and a half
+miles, formed by a pond, fed by springs: three miles further is a large
+sand island, in the middle of the river; the land on the south being
+high, and covered with timber; that on the north, a high prairie. At ten
+and a half miles from our encampment, we saw and examined a curious
+collection of graves or mounds, on the south side of the river. Not far
+from a low piece of land and a pond, is a tract of about two hundred
+acres in circumference, which is covered with mounds of different
+heights, shapes, and sizes: some of sand, and some of both earth and
+sand; the largest being nearest the river. These mounds indicate the
+position of the ancient village of the Ottoes, before they retired to
+the protection of the Pawnees. After making fifteen miles, we encamped
+on the south, on the bank of a high handsome prairie, with lofty
+cottonwood in groves, near the river.
+
+July 28. At one mile, this morning we reached a bluff, on the north,
+being the first highlands, which approach the river on that side, since
+we left the Nadawa. Above this, is an island and a creek, about fifteen
+yards wide, which, as it has no name, we called Indian Knob creek, from
+a number of round knobs bare of timber, on the highlands, to the north.
+A little below the bluff, on the north, is the spot where the Ayauway
+Indians formerly lived. They were a branch of the Ottoes, and emigrated
+from this place to the river Desmoines. At ten and three quarter miles,
+we encamped on the north, opposite an island, in the middle of the
+river. The land, generally, on the north, consists of high prairie and
+hills, with timber: on the south, low and covered with cottonwood. Our
+hunter brought to us in the evening, a Missouri Indian, whom he had
+found, with two others, dressing an elk; they were perfectly friendly,
+gave him some of the meat, and one of them agreed to accompany him to
+the boat. He is one of the few remaining Missouris, who live with the
+Ottoes: he belongs to a small party, whose camp is four miles from the
+river; and he says, that the body of the nation is now hunting buffaloe
+in the plains: he appeared quite sprightly, and his language resembled
+that of the Osage, particularly in his calling a chief, inca. We sent
+him back with one of our party next morning,
+
+Sunday, July 29, with an invitation to the Indians, to meet us above on
+the river, and then proceeded. We soon came to a northern bend in the
+river, which runs within twenty yards of Indian Knob creek, the water of
+which is five feet higher than that of the Missouri. In less than two
+miles, we passed Boyer's creek on the north, of twenty-five yards width.
+We stopped to dine under a shade, near the highland on the south, and
+caught several large catfish, one of them nearly white, and all very
+fat. Above this highland, we observed the traces of a great hurricane,
+which passed the river obliquely from N.W. to S.E. and tore up large
+trees, some of which perfectly sound, and four feet in diameter, were
+snapped off near the ground. We made ten miles to a wood on the north,
+where we encamped. The Missouri is much more crooked, since we passed
+the river Platte, though generally speaking, not so rapid; more of
+prairie, with less timber, and cottonwood in the low grounds, and oak,
+black walnut, hickory, and elm.
+
+July 30. We went early in the morning, three and a quarter miles, and
+encamped on the south, in order to wait for the Ottoes. The land here
+consists of a plain, above the highwater level, the soil of which is
+fertile, and covered with a grass from five to eight feet high,
+interspersed with copses of large plums, and a currant, like those of
+the United States. It also furnishes two species of honeysuckle; one
+growing to a kind of shrub, common about Harrodsburgh (Kentucky), the
+other is not so high: the flowers grow in clusters, are short, and of a
+light pink colour; the leaves too, are distinct, and do not surround the
+stalk, as do those of the common honeysuckle of the United States. Back
+of this plain, is a woody ridge about seventy feet above it, at the end
+of which we formed our camp. This ridge separates the lower from a
+higher prairie, of a good quality, with grass, of ten or twelve inches
+in height, and extending back about a mile, to another elevation of
+eighty or ninety feet, beyond which is one continued plain. Near our
+camp, we enjoy from the bluffs a most beautiful view of the river, and
+the adjoining country. At a distance, varying from four to ten miles,
+and of a height between seventy and three hundred feet, two parallel
+ranges of highland affords a passage to the Missouri, which enriches the
+low grounds between them. In its winding course, it nourishes the willow
+islands, the scattered cottonwood, elm, sycamore, lynn, and ash, and the
+groves are interspersed with hickory, walnut, coffeenut, and oak.
+
+July 31. The meridian altitude of this day made the latitude of our camp
+41° 18' 1-4/10". The hunters supplied us with deer, turkies, geese, and
+beaver; one of the last was caught alive, and in a very short time was
+perfectly tamed. Catfish are very abundant in the river, and we have
+also seen a buffaloefish. One our men brought in yesterday an animal
+called, by the Pawnees, chocartoosh, and, by the French, blaireau, or
+badger. The evening is cool, yet the musquitoes are still very
+troublesome.
+
+We waited with much anxiety the return of our messenger to the Ottoes.
+The men whom we despatched to our last encampment, returned without
+having seen any appearance of its having been visited. Our horses too
+had strayed; but we were so fortunate as to recover them at the distance
+of twelve miles. Our apprehensions were at length relieved by the
+arrival of a party of about fourteen Ottoe and Missouri Indians, who
+came at sunset, on the second of August, accompanied by a Frenchman, who
+resided among them, and interpreted for us. Captains Lewis and Clarke
+went out to meet them, and told them that we would hold a council in the
+morning. In the mean time we sent them some roasted meat, pork, flour,
+and meal; in return for which they made us a present of watermelons. We
+learnt that our man Liberte had set out from their camp a day before
+them: we were in hopes that he had fatigued his horse, or lost himself
+in the woods, and would soon return; but we never saw him again.
+
+August 8. The next morning the Indians, with their six chiefs, were all
+assembled under an awning, formed with the mainsail, in presence of all
+our party, paraded for the occasion. A speech was then made, announcing
+to them the change in the government, our promises of protection, and
+advice as to their future conduct. All the six chiefs replied to our
+speech, each in his turn, according to rank: they expressed their joy at
+the change in the government; their hopes that we would recommend them
+to their great father (the president), that they might obtain trade and
+necessaries; they wanted arms as well for hunting as for defence, and
+asked our mediation between them and the Mahas, with whom they are now
+at war. We promised to do so, and wished some of them to accompany us to
+that nation, which they declined, for fear of being killed by them. We
+then proceeded to distribute our presents. The grand chief of the nation
+not being of the party, we sent him a flag, a medal, and some ornaments
+for clothing. To the six chiefs who were present, we gave a medal of the
+second grade to one Ottoe chief, and one Missouri chief; a medal of the
+third grade to two inferior chiefs of each nation: the customary mode of
+recognizing a chief, being to place a medal round his neck, which is
+considered among his tribe as a proof of his consideration abroad. Each
+of these medals was accompanied by a present of paint, garters, and
+cloth ornaments of dress; and to this we added a cannister of powder, a
+bottle of whiskey, and a few presents to the whole, which appeared to
+make them perfectly satisfied. The airgun too was fired, and astonished
+them greatly. The absent grand chief was an Ottoe named Weahrushhah,
+which, in English, degenerates into Little Thief. The two principal
+chieftains present were, Shongotongo, or Big Horse; and Wethea, or
+Hospitality; also Shosgusean, or White Horse, an Ottoe; the first an
+Ottoe, the second a Missouri. The incidents just related, induced us to
+give to this place the name of the Council-bluff; the situation of it
+is exceedingly favourable for a fort and trading factory, as the soil
+is well calculated for bricks, and there is an abundance of wood in the
+neighbourhood, and the air being pure and healthy. It is also central to
+the chief resorts of the Indians: one day's journey to the Ottoes; one
+and a half to the great Pawnees; two days from the Mahas; two and a
+quarter from the Pawnees Loups village; convenient to the hunting
+grounds of the Sioux; and twenty-five days journey to Santa Fee.
+
+The ceremonies of the council being concluded, we set sail in the
+afternoon, and encamped at the distance of five miles, on the south
+side, where we found the musquitoes very troublesome.
+
+August 4. A violent wind, accompanied by rain, purified and cooled the
+atmosphere last night; we proceeded early, and reached a very narrow
+part of the river, where the channel is confined within a space of two
+hundred yards, by a sand point on the north, and a bend on the south;
+the banks in the neighbourhood washing away, the trees falling in, and
+the channel filled with buried logs. Above this is a trading house, on
+the south, where one of our party passed two years, trading with the
+Mahas. At nearly four miles, is a creek on the south, emptying opposite
+a large island of sand; between this creek and our last night's
+encampment, the river has changed its bed, and encroached on the
+southern shore. About two miles further, is another creek on the south,
+which, like the former, is the outlet of three ponds, communicating with
+each other, and forming a small lake, which is fed by streams from the
+highlands. At fifteen miles, we encamped on the south. The hills on both
+sides of the river are nearly twelve or fifteen miles from each other;
+those of the north containing some timber, while the hills of south are
+without any covering, except some scattering wood in the ravines, and
+near where the creeks pass into the hills; rich plains and prairies
+occupying the intermediate space, and partially covered, near the water,
+with cottonwood. There has been a great deal of pumice stone on shore
+to-day.
+
+August 5th. We set out early, and, by means of our oars, made twenty and
+a half miles, though the river was crowded with sandbars. On both sides
+the prairies extend along the river; the banks being covered with great
+quantities of grapes, of which three different species are now ripe; one
+large and resembling the purple grape. We had some rain this morning,
+attended by high wind; but generally speaking, have remarked that
+thunder storms are less frequent than in the Atlantic states, at this
+season. Snakes too are less frequent, though we killed one to-day of the
+shape and size of the rattlesnake, but of a lighter colour. We fixed our
+camp on the north side. In the evening, captain Clarke, in pursuing some
+game, in an eastern direction, found himself at the distance of three
+hundred and seventy yards from the camp, at a point of the river whence
+we had come twelve miles. When the water is high, this peninsula is
+overflowed, and judging from the customary and notorious changes in the
+river, a few years will be sufficient to force the main current of the
+river across, and leave the great bend dry. The whole lowland between
+the parallel range of hills seems formed of mud or ooze of the river, at
+some former period, mixed with sand and clay. The sand of the
+neighbouring banks accumulates with the aid of that brought down the
+stream, and forms sandbars, projecting into the river; these drive the
+channel to the opposite banks, the loose texture of which it undermines,
+and at length deserts its ancient bed for a new and shorter passage; it
+is thus that the banks of the Missouri are constantly falling, and the
+river changing its bed.
+
+August 6. In the morning, after a violent storm of wind and rain from
+N.W. we passed a large island to the north. In the channel separating it
+from the shore, a creek called Soldier's river enters; the island kept
+it from our view, but one of our men who had seen it, represents it as
+about forty yards wide at its mouth. At five miles, we came to a bend
+of the river towards the north, a sandbar, running in from the south,
+had turned its course so as to leave the old channel quite dry. We again
+saw the same appearance at our encampment, twenty and a half miles
+distant on the north side. Here the channel of the river had encroached
+south, and the old bed was without water, except a few ponds. The
+sandbars are still very numerous.
+
+August 7. We had another storm from the N.W. in the course of the last
+evening; in the morning we proceeded, having the wind from the north,
+and encamped on the northern shore, having rowed seventeen miles. The
+river is here encumbered with sandbars, but no islands, except two small
+ones, called Detachment islands, and formed on the south side by a small
+stream.
+
+We despatched four men back to the Ottoes village in quest of our man,
+Liberte, and to apprehend one of the soldiers, who left us on the 4th,
+under pretence of recovering a knife which he had dropped a short
+distance behind, and who we fear has deserted. We also sent small
+presents to the Ottoes and Missouris, and requested that they would join
+us at the Maha village, where a peace might be concluded between them.
+
+August 8. At two miles distance, this morning we came to a part of the
+river, where there was concealed timber difficult to pass. The wind was
+from the N.W. and we proceeded in safety. At six miles, a river empties
+on the northern side, called by the Sioux Indians, Eaneahwadepon, or
+Stone river; and by the French, Petite Riviere des Sioux, or Little
+Sioux river. At its confluence it is eighty yards wide. Our interpreter,
+Mr. Durion, who has been to the sources of it, and knows the adjoining
+country, says that it rises within about nine miles of the river
+Desmoines; that within fifteen leagues of that river it passes through a
+large lake nearly sixty miles in circumference, and divided into two
+parts by rocks which approach each other very closely: its width is
+various: it contains many islands, and is known by the name of the Lac
+d'Esprit: it is near the Dogplains, and within four days march of the
+Mahas. The country watered by it, is open and undulating, and may be
+visited in boats up the river for some distance. The Desmoines, he adds,
+is about eighty yards wide where the Little Sioux river approaches it:
+it is shoaly, and one of its principal branches is called Cat river. Two
+miles beyond this river is a long island which we called Pelican island,
+from the numbers of that animal which were feeding on it: one of these
+being killed, we poured into his bag five gallons of water. An elk, too,
+was shot, and we had again to remark that snakes are rare in this part
+of the Missouri. A meridian altitude near the Little Sioux river made
+the latitude 41° 42' 34". We encamped on the north, having come sixteen
+miles.
+
+August 9. A thick fog detained us until past seven o'clock, after which
+we proceeded with a gentle breeze from the southeast. After passing two
+sandbars we reached, at seven and a half miles, a point of highland on
+the left, near which the river has forced itself a channel across a
+peninsula, leaving on the right a circuit of twelve or eighteen miles,
+which is now recognised by the ponds and islands it contains. At
+seventeen and a half miles, we reached a point on the north, where we
+encamped. The hills are at a great distance from the river for the last
+several days; the land, on both sides low, and covered with cottonwood
+and abundance of grape vines. An elk was seen to-day, a turkey also
+shot, and near our camp is a beaver den: the musquitoes have been more
+troublesome than ever for the two last days.
+
+August 10. At two and a half miles, we came to a place, called Coupee a
+Jacques, where the river has found a new bed, and abridged a circuit of
+several miles: at twelve and a half miles, a cliff of yellow stone on
+the left. This is the first highland near the river above the
+Council-bluff. After passing a number of sandbars we reached a willow
+island at the distance of twenty-two and a half miles, which we were
+enabled to do with our oars and a wind from the S.W. and encamped on the
+north side.
+
+August 11. After a violent wind from the N.W. attended with rain, we
+sailed along the right of the island. At nearly five miles, we halted on
+the south side for the purpose of examining a spot where one of the
+great chiefs of the Mahas named Blackbird, who died about four years ago
+of the smallpox, was buried. A hill of yellow soft sandstone rises from
+the river in bluffs of various heights, till it ends in a knoll about
+three hundred feet above the water; on the top of this a mound, of
+twelve feet diameter at the base and six feet high, is raised over the
+body of the deceased king; a pole of about eight feet high is fixed in
+the centre; on which we placed a white flag, bordered with red, blue,
+and white. The Blackbird seems to have been a personage of great
+consideration; for ever since his death he is supplied with provisions,
+from time to time, by the superstitious regard of the Mahas. We
+descended to the river and passed a small creek on the south, called, by
+the Mahas, Waucandipeeche, (Great Spirit is bad.) Near this creek and
+the adjoining hills the Mahas had a village, and lost four hundred of
+their nation by the dreadful malady which destroyed the Blackbird. The
+meridian altitude made the latitude 42° 1' 3-8/10" north. We encamped,
+at seventeen miles distance, on the north side in a bend of the river.
+During our day's course it has been crooked; we observed a number of
+places in it where the old channel is filled up, or gradually becoming
+covered with willow and cottonwood; great numbers of herons are observed
+to-day, and the mosquitoes annoy us very much.
+
+August 12. A gentle breeze from the south, carried us along about ten
+miles, when we stopped to take meridian altitude, and sent a man across
+to our place of observation: yesterday he stepped nine hundred and
+seventy-four yards, and the distance we had come round, was eighteen
+miles and three quarters. The river is wider and shallower than usual.
+Four miles beyond this bend a bluff begins, and continues several
+miles; on the south it rises from the water at different heights, from
+twenty to one hundred and fifty feet, and higher as it recedes on the
+river: it consists of yellow and brown clay, with soft sandstone imbeded
+in it, and is covered with timber, among which may be observed some red
+cedar: the lands on the opposite side are low and subject to inundation,
+but contain willows, cottonwood, and many grapes. A prairie-wolf came
+near the bank and barked at us; we attempted unsuccessfully to take him.
+This part of the river abounds in beaver. We encamped on a sand-island
+in a bend to the north, having made twenty miles and a quarter.
+
+August 13. Set out at daylight with a breeze from the southeast, and
+passed several sandbars. Between ten and eleven miles, we came to a spot
+on the south, where a Mr. Mackay had a trading establishment in the year
+1795 and 1796, which he called Fort Charles. At fourteen miles, we
+reached a creek on the south, on which the Mahas reside, and at
+seventeen miles and a quarter, formed a camp on a sandbar, to the south
+side of the river, opposite the lower point of a large island. From this
+place sergeant Ordway and four men were detached to the Maha village
+with a flag and a present, in order to induce them to come and hold a
+council with us. They returned at twelve o'clock the next day, August
+14. After crossing a prairie covered with high grass, they reached the
+Maha creek, along which they proceeded to its three forks, which join
+near the village: they crossed the north branch and went along the
+south; the walk was very fatiguing, as they were forced to break their
+way through grass, sunflowers and thistles, all above ten feet high, and
+interspersed with wild pea. Five miles from our camp they reached the
+position of the ancient Maha village: it had once consisted of three
+hundred cabins, but was burnt about four years ago, soon after the
+smallpox had destroyed four hundred men, and a proportion of women and
+children. On a hill, in the rear of the village, are the graves of the
+nation; to the south of which runs the fork of the Maha creek: this they
+crossed where it was about ten yards wide, and followed its course to
+the Missouri, passing along a ridge of hill for one and a half mile, and
+a long pond between that and the Missouri: they then recrossed the Maha
+creek, and arrived at the camp, having seen no tracks of Indians nor any
+sign of recent cultivation.
+
+In the morning 15th, some men were sent to examine the cause of a large
+smoke from the northeast, and which seemed to indicate that some Indians
+were near; but they found that a small party, who had lately passed that
+way, had left some trees burning, and that the wind from that quarter
+blew the smoke directly towards us. Our camp lies about three miles
+northeast from the old Maha village, and is in latitude 42° 15' 41". The
+accounts we have had of the effects of the smallpox on that nation are
+most distressing; it is not known in what way it was first communicated
+to them, though probably by some war party. They had been a military and
+powerful people; but when these warriors saw their strength wasting
+before a malady which they could not resist, their phrenzy was extreme;
+they burnt their village, and many of them put to death their wives and
+children, to save them from so cruel an affliction, and that all might
+go together to some better country.
+
+On the 16th, we still waited for the Indians: a party had gone out
+yesterday to the Maha creek, which was damned up by the beaver between
+the camp and the village: a second went to-day. They made a kind of drag
+with small willows and bark, and swept the creek: the first company
+brought three hundred and eighteen, the second upwards of eight hundred,
+consisting of pike, bass, fish resembling salmon, trout, redhorse,
+buffaloe, one rockfish, one flatback, perch, catfish, a small species of
+perch called, on the Ohio, silverfish, a shrimp of the same size, shape
+and flavour of those about Neworleans, and the lower part of the
+Mississippi. We also found very fat muscles; and on the river as well as
+the creek, are different kinds of ducks and plover. The wind, which in
+the morning had been from the northwest, shifted round in the evening to
+the southeast, and as usual we had a breeze, which cooled the air and
+relieve us from the musquitoes, who generally give us great trouble.
+
+Friday 17. The wind continued from the southeast, and the morning was
+fair. We observe about us a grass resembling wheat, except that the
+grain is like rye, also some similar to both rye and barley, and a kind
+of timothy, the seed of which branches from the main stock, and is more
+like a flaxseed than a timothy. In the evening, one of the party sent to
+the Ottoes, returned with the information that the rest were coming on
+with the deserter: they had also caught Liberte, but, by a trick, he
+made his escape: they were bringing three of the chiefs in order to
+engage our assistance in making peace with the Mahas. This nation having
+left their village, that desirable purpose cannot be effected; but in
+order to bring in any neighbouring tribes, we set the surrounding
+prairies on fire. This is the customary signal made by traders to
+apprize the Indians of their arrival: it is also used between different
+nations as an indication of any event which they have previously agreed
+to announce in that way; and as soon as it is seen collects the
+neighbouring tribes, unless they apprehend that it is made by their
+enemies.
+
+August 18. In the afternoon the party arrived with the Indians,
+consisting of the Little Thief and the Big Horse, whom we had seen on
+the third, together with six other chiefs, and a French interpreter. We
+met them under a shade, and after they had finished a repast with which
+we supplied them, we inquired into the origin of the war between them
+and the Mahas, which they related with great frankness. It seems that
+two of the Missouris went to the Mahas to steal horses, but were
+detected and killed; the Ottoes and Missouris thought themselves bound
+to avenge their companions, and the whole nations were at last obliged
+to share in the dispute; they are also in fear of a war from the
+Pawnees, whose village they entered this summer, while the inhabitants
+were hunting, and stole their corn. This ingenuous confession did not
+make us the less desirous of negotiating a peace for them; but no
+Indians have as yet been attracted by our fire. The evening was closed
+by a dance; and the next day,
+
+August 19, the chiefs and warriors being assembled at ten o'clock, we
+explained the speech we had already sent from the Council-bluffs, and
+renewed our advice. They all replied in turn, and the presents were then
+distributed: we exchanged the small medal we had formerly given to the
+Big Horse for one of the same size with that of Little Thief: we also
+gave a small medal to a third chief, and a kind of certificate or letter
+of acknowledgment to five of the warriors expressive of our favour and
+their good intentions: one of them dissatisfied, returned us the
+certificate; but the chief, fearful of our being offended, begged that
+it might be restored to him; this we declined, and rebuked them severely
+for having in view mere traffic instead of peace with their neighbours.
+This displeased them at first; but they at length all petitioned that it
+should be given to the warrior, who then came forward and made an
+apology to us; we then delivered it to the chief to be given to the most
+worthy, and he bestowed it on the same warrior, whose name was Great
+Blue Eyes. After a more substantial present of small articles and
+tobacco, the council was ended with a dram to the Indians. In the
+evening we exhibited different objects of curiosity, and particularly
+the airgun, which gave them great surprise. Those people are almost
+naked, having no covering, except a sort of breechcloth round the
+middle, with a loose blanket or buffaloe robe painted, thrown over them.
+The names of these warriors, besides those already mentioned were
+Karkapaha, (or Crow's head) and Nenasawa (or Black Cat) Missouris; and
+Sananona (or Iron Eyes) Neswaunja (or Big Ox) Stageaunja (or Big Blue
+Eyes) and Wasashaco (or Brave Man) all Ottoes. These two tribes speak
+very nearly the same language: they all begged us to give them whiskey.
+
+The next morning, August 20, the Indians mounted their horses and left
+us, having received a canister of whiskey at parting. We then set sail,
+and after passing two islands on the north, came to on that side under
+some bluffs; the first near the river since we left the Ayauwa village.
+Here we had the misfortune to lose one of our sergeants, Charles Floyd.
+He was yesterday seized with a bilious cholic, and all our care and
+attention were ineffectual to relieve him: a little before his death, he
+said to captain Clark, "I am going to leave you," his strength failed
+him as he added "I want you to write me a letter," but he died with a
+composure which justified the high opinion we had formed of his firmness
+and good conduct. He was buried on the top of the bluff with the honours
+due to a brave soldier; and the place of his interment marked by a cedar
+post, on which his name and the day of his death were inscribed. About a
+mile beyond this place, to which we gave his name, is a small river
+about thirty yards wide, on the north, which we called Floyd's river,
+where we encamped. We had a breeze from the southeast, and made thirteen
+miles.
+
+August 21. The same breeze from the southeast carried us by a small
+willow creek on the north, about one mile and a half above Floyd's
+river. Here began a range of bluffs which continued till near the mouth
+of the great Sioux river, three miles beyond Floyd's. This river comes
+in from the north, and is about one hundred and ten yards wide. Mr.
+Durion, our Sioux interpreter, who is well acquainted with it, says that
+it is navigable upwards of two hundred miles to the falls, and even
+beyond them; that its sources are near those of the St. Peters. He also
+says, that below the falls a creek falls in from the eastward, after
+passing through cliffs of red rock: of this the Indians make their
+pipes; and the necessity of procuring that article, has introduced a
+sort of law of nations, by which the banks of the creek are sacred, and
+even tribes at war meet without hostility at these quarries, which
+possess a right of asylum. Thus we find even among savages certain
+principles deemed sacred, by which the rigours of their merciless system
+of warfare are mitigated. A sense of common danger, where stronger ties
+are wanting, gives all the binding force of more solemn obligations. The
+importance of preserving the known and settled rules of warfare among
+civilized nations, in all their integrity, becomes strikingly evident;
+since even savages, with their few precarious wants, cannot exist in a
+state of peace or war where this faith is once violated. The wind became
+southerly, and blew with such violence that we took a reef in our sail:
+it also blew the sand from the bars in such quantities, that we could
+not see the channel at any distance ahead. At four and a quarter miles,
+we came to two willow islands, beyond which are several sandbars; and at
+twelve miles, a spot where the Mahas once had a village, now no longer
+existing. We again passed a number of sandbars, and encamped on the
+south; having come twenty-four and three quarter miles. The country
+through which we passed has the same uniform appearance ever since we
+left the river Platte: rich low-grounds near the river, succeeded by
+undulating prairies, with timber near the waters. Some wolves were seen
+to-day on the sandbeaches to the south; we also procured an excellent
+fruit, resembling a red currant, growing on a shrub like the privy, and
+about the height of a wild plum.
+
+August 22. About three miles distance, we joined the men who had been
+sent from the Maha village with our horses, and who brought us two deer.
+The bluffs or hills which reach the river at this place, on the south,
+contain allum, copperas, cobalt which had the appearance of soft
+isinglass, pyrites, and sandstone, the two first very pure. Above this
+bluff comes in a small creek on the south, which we call Rologe creek.
+Seven miles above is another cliff, on the same side, of allum rock, of
+a dark brown colour, containing in its crevices great quantities of
+cobalt, cemented shells, and red earth. From this the river bends to the
+eastward, and approaches the Sioux river within three or four miles. We
+sailed the greater part of the day, and made nineteen miles to our camp
+on the north side. The sandbars are as usual numerous: there are also
+considerable traces of elk; but none are yet seen. Captain Lewis in
+proving the quality of some of the substances in the first cliff, was
+considerably injured by the fumes and taste of the cobalt, and took some
+strong medicine to relieve him from its effects. The appearance of these
+mineral substances enable us to account for disorders of the stomach,
+with which the party had been affected since they left the river Sioux.
+We had been in the habit of dipping up the water of the river
+inadvertently and making use of it, till, on examination, the sickness
+was thought to proceed from a scum covering the surface of the water
+along the southern shore, and which, as we now discovered, proceeded
+from these bluffs. The men had been ordered, before we reached the
+bluffs, to agitate the water, so as to disperse the scum, and take the
+water, not at the surface, but at some depth. The consequence was, that
+these disorders ceased: the biles too which had afflicted the men, were
+not observed beyond the Sioux river. In order to supply the place of
+sergeant Floyd, we permitted the men to name three persons, and Patrick
+Gass having the greatest number of votes was made a sergeant.
+
+August 23. We set out early, and at four miles came to a small run
+between cliffs of yellow and blue earth: the wind, however, soon
+changed, and blew so hard from the west, that we proceeded very slowly;
+the fine sand from the bar being driven in such clouds, that we could
+scarcely see. Three and a quarter miles beyond this run, we came to a
+willow island, and a sand island opposite, and encamped on the south
+side, at ten and a quarter miles. On the north side is an extensive and
+delightful prairie, which we called Buffaloe prairie, from our having
+here killed the first buffaloe. Two elk swam the river to-day and were
+fired at, but escaped: a deer was killed from the boat; one beaver was
+killed; and several prairie wolves were seen.
+
+August 24. It began to rain last night, and continued this morning: we
+proceeded, however, two and a quarter miles, to the commencement of a
+bluff of blue clay, about one hundred and eighty, or one hundred and
+ninety feet on the south side: it seems to have been lately on fire; and
+even now the ground is so warm that we cannot keep our hands in it at
+any depth: there are strong appearances of coal, and also great
+quantities of cobalt, or a crystalized substance resembling it. There is
+a fruit now ripe which looks like a currant, except that it is double
+the size, and grows on a bush like a privy, the size of a damson, and of
+a delicious flavour; its Indian name means rabbit-berries. We then
+passed, at the distance of about seven miles, the mouth of a creek on
+the north side, called by an Indian name, meaning Whitestone river. The
+beautiful prairie of yesterday, has changed into one of greater height,
+and very smooth and extensive. We encamped on the south side, at ten and
+a quarter miles, and found ourselves much annoyed by the musquitoes.
+
+
+
+
+                                CHAP. III.
+
+     Whimsical instance of superstition of the Sioux Indians--Council
+     held with the Sioux--Character of that tribe, their manners, &c.--A
+     ridiculous instance of their heroism--Ancient
+     fortifications--Quieurre river described--Vast herds of
+     Buffaloe--Account of the Petit Chien or Little Dog--Narrow escape
+     of George Shannon--Description of Whiteriver--Surprising fleetness
+     of the Antelope--Pass the river of the Sioux--Description of the
+     Grand Le Tour, or Great Bend--Encamp on the Teton river.
+
+
+August 25. Captains Lewis and Clarke, with ten men, went to see an
+object deemed very extraordinary among all the neighbouring Indians.
+They dropped down to the mouth of Whitestone river, about thirty yards
+wide, where they left the boat, and at the distance of two hundred
+yards, ascended a rising ground, from which a plain extended itself as
+far as the eye could discern. After walking four miles, they crossed the
+creek where it is twenty-three yards wide, and waters an extensive
+valley. The heat was so oppressive that we were obliged to send back our
+dog to the creek, as he was unable to bear the fatigue; and it was not
+till after four hours march that we reached the object of our visit.
+This was a large mound in the midst of the plain about N. 20° W. from
+the month of Whitestone river, from which it is nine miles distant. The
+base of the mound is a regular parallelogram, the longest side being
+about three hundred yards, the shorter sixty or seventy: from the
+longest side it rises with a steep ascent from the north and south to
+the height of sixty-five or seventy feet, leaving on the top a level
+plain of twelve feet in breadth and ninety in length. The north and
+south extremities are connected by two oval borders which serve as new
+bases, and divide the whole side into three steep but regular gradations
+from the plain. The only thing characteristic in this hill is its
+extreme symmetry, and this, together with its being totally detached
+from the other hills which are at the distance of eight or nine miles,
+would induce a belief that it was artificial; but, as the earth and the
+loose pebbles which compose it, are arranged exactly like the steep
+grounds on the borders of the creek, we concluded from this similarity
+of texture that it might be natural. But the Indians have made it a
+great article of their superstition: it is called the mountain of Little
+People, or Little Spirits, and they believe that it is the abode of
+little devils, in the human form, of about eighteen inches high and with
+remarkably large heads; they are armed with sharp arrows, with which
+they are very skilful, and are always on the watch to kill those who
+should have the hardihood to approach their residence. The tradition is,
+that many have suffered from these little evil spirits, and among
+others, three Maha Indians fell a sacrifice to them a few years since.
+This has inspired all the neighbouring nations, Sioux, Mahas, and
+Ottoes, with such terror, that no consideration could tempt them to
+visit the hill. We saw none of these wicked little spirits; nor any
+place for them, except some small holes scattered over the top: we were
+happy enough to escape their vengeance, though we remained some time on
+the mound to enjoy the delightful prospect of the plain, which spreads
+itself out till the eye rests upon the N.W. hills at a great distance,
+and those of N.E. still farther off, enlivened by large herds of
+buffaloe feeding at a distance. The soil of these plains is exceedingly
+fine; there is, however, no timber except on the Missouri: all the wood
+of the Whitestone river not being sufficient to cover thickly one
+hundred acres. The plain country which surrounds this mound has
+contributed not a little to its bad reputation: the wind driving from
+every direction over the level ground obliges the insects to seek
+shelter on its leeward side, or be driven against us by the wind. The
+small birds, whose food they are, resort of course in great numbers in
+quest of subsistence; and the Indians always seem to discover an unusual
+assemblage of birds as produced by some supernatural cause: among them
+we observed the brown martin employed in looking for insects, and so
+gentle that they did not fly until we got within a few feet of them. We
+have also distinguished among numerous birds of the plain, the
+blackbird, the wren or prairie bird, and a species of lark about the
+size of a partridge, with a short tail. The excessive heat and thirst
+forced us from the hill, about one o'clock, to the nearest water, which
+we found in the creek, at three miles distance, and remained an hour and
+a half. We then went down the creek, through a lowland about one mile in
+width, and crossed it three times, to the spot where we first reached it
+in the morning. Here we gathered some delicious plums, grapes and blue
+currants, and afterwards arrived at the mouth of the river about sunset.
+To this place the course from the mound is S. twenty miles, E. nine
+miles; we there resumed our periogue, and on reaching our encampment of
+last night set the prairies on fire, to warn the Sioux of our approach.
+In the mean time, the boat under serjeant Pryor had proceeded in the
+afternoon one mile, to a bluff of blue clay on the south, and after
+passing a sandbar and two sand islands fixed their camp at the distance
+of six miles on the south. In the evening some rain fell. We had killed
+a duck and several birds: in the boat, they had caught some large
+catfish.
+
+Sunday, August 26. We rejoined the boat at nine o'clock before she set
+out, and then passing by an island, and under a cliff on the south,
+nearly two miles in extent and composed of white and blue earth,
+encamped at nine miles distance, on a sandbar towards the north.
+Opposite to this, on the south, is a small creek called Petit Arc or
+Little Bow, and a short distance above it, an old village of the same
+name. This village, of which nothing remains but the mound of earth
+about four feet high surrounding it, was built by a Maha chief named
+Little Bow, who being displeased with Blackbird, the late king, seceded
+with two hundred followers and settled at this spot, which is now
+abandoned, as the two villages have reunited since the death of
+Blackbird. We have great quantities of grapes, and plums of three kinds;
+two of a yellow colour, and distinguished by one of the species being
+longer than the other; and a third round and red: all have an excellent
+flavour, particularly those of the yellow kind.
+
+August 27. The morning star appeared much larger than usual. A gentle
+breeze from the southeast carried us by some large sandbars, on both
+sides and in the middle of the river, to a bluff, on the south side, at
+seven and a half miles distant; this bluff is of white clay or chalk,
+under which is much stone, like lime, incrusted with a clear substance,
+supposed to be cobalt, and some dark ore. Above this bluff we set the
+prairie on fire, to invite the Sioux. After twelve and a half miles, we
+had passed several other sandbars, and now reached the mouth of a river
+called by the French Jacques (James river) or Yankton, from the tribe
+which inhabits its banks. It is about ninety yards wide at the
+confluence: the country which it waters is rich prairie, with little
+timber: it becomes deeper and wider above its mouth, and may be
+navigated a great distance; as its sources rise near those of St.
+Peter's, of the Mississippi, and the red river of lake Winnipeg. As we
+came to the mouth of the river, an Indian swam to the boat; and, on our
+landing, we were met by two others, who informed us that a large body of
+Sioux were encamped near us: they accompanied three of our men, with an
+invitation to meet us at a spot above the river: the third Indian
+remained with us: he is a Maha boy, and says that his nation have gone
+to the Pawnees to make peace with them. At fourteen miles, we encamped
+on a sandbar to the north. The air was cool, the evening pleasant, the
+wind from the southeast, and light. The river has fallen gradually, and
+is now low.
+
+Tuesday, 28th. We passed, with a stiff breeze from the south, several
+sandbars. On the south is a prairie which rises gradually from the water
+to the height of a bluff, which is, at four miles distance, of a whitish
+colour, and about seventy or eighty feet high. Further on is another
+bluff, of a brownish colour, on the north side; and at the distance of
+eight and a half miles is the beginning of Calumet bluff, on the south
+side, under which we formed our camp, in a beautiful plain, to wait the
+arrival of the Sioux. At the first bluff the young Indian left us and
+joined their camp. Before reaching Calumet bluff one of the periogues
+ran upon a log in the river, and was rendered unfit for service; so that
+all our loading was put into the second periogue. On both sides of the
+river are fine prairies, with cotton wood; and near the bluff there is
+more timber in the points and valleys than we have been accustomed to
+see.
+
+Wednesday, 29th. We had a violent storm of wind and rain last evening;
+and were engaged during the day in repairing the periogue, and other
+necessary occupations; when, at four o'clock in the afternoon, sergeant
+Pryor and his party arrived on the opposite side, attended by five
+chiefs, and about seventy men and boys. We sent a boat for them, and
+they joined us, as did also Mr. Durion, the son of our interpreter, who
+happened to be trading with the Sioux at this time. He returned with
+sergeant Pryor to the Indians, with a present of tobacco, corn, and a
+few kettles; and told them that we would speak to their chiefs in the
+morning. Sergeant Pryor reported, that on reaching their village, which
+is at twelve miles distance from our camp, he was met by a party with a
+buffaloe robe, on which they desired to carry their visitors: an honour
+which they declined, informing the Indians that they were not the
+commanders of the boats: as a great mark of respect, they were then
+presented with a fat dog, already cooked, of which they partook
+heartily, and found it well flavoured. The camps of the Sioux are of a
+conical form, covered with buffaloe robes, painted with various figures
+and colours, with an aperture in the top for the smoke to pass through.
+The lodges contain from ten to fifteen persons, and the interior
+arrangement is compact and handsome, each lodge having a place for
+cooking detached from it.
+
+August 30th. Thursday. The fog was so thick that we could not see the
+Indian camp on the opposite side, but it cleared off about eight
+o'clock. We prepared a speech, and some presents, and then sent for the
+chiefs and warriors, whom we received, at twelve o'clock, under a large
+oak tree, near to which the flag of the United States was flying.
+Captain Lewis delivered a speech, with the usual advice and counsel for
+their future conduct. We then acknowledged their chiefs, by giving to
+the grand chief a flag, a medal, a certificate, with a string of wampum;
+to which we added a chief's coat; that is, a richly laced uniform of the
+United States artillery corps, and a cocked hat and red feather. One
+second chief and three inferior ones were made or recognised by medals,
+and a suitable present of tobacco, and articles of clothing. We then
+smoked the pipe of peace, and the chiefs retired to a bower, formed of
+bushes, by their young men, where they divided among each other the
+presents, and smoked and eat, and held a council on the answer which
+they were to make us to-morrow. The young people exercised their bows
+and arrows in shooting at marks for beads, which we distributed to the
+best marksmen; and in the evening the whole party danced until a late
+hour, and in the course of their amusement we threw among them some
+knives, tobacco, bells, tape, and binding, with which they were much
+pleased. Their musical instruments were the drum, and a sort of little
+bag made of buffaloe hide, dressed white, with small shot or pebbles in
+it, and a bunch of hair tied to it. This produces a sort of rattling
+music, with which the party was annoyed by four musicians during the
+council this morning.
+
+August 31. In the morning, after breakfast, the chiefs met, and sat down
+in a row, with pipes of peace, highly ornamented, and all pointed
+towards the seats intended for captains Lewis and Clarke. When they
+arrived and were seated, the grand chief, whose Indian name, Weucha, is,
+in English Shake Hand, and, in French, is called Le Liberateur (the
+deliverer) rose, and spoke at some length, approving what we had said,
+and promising to follow our advice:
+
+"I see before me," said he, "my great father's two sons. You see me, and
+the rest of our chiefs and warriors. We are very poor; we have neither
+powder nor ball, nor knives; and our women and children at the village
+have no clothes. I wish that as my brothers have given me a flag and a
+medal, they would give something to those poor people, or let them stop
+and trade with the first boat which comes up the river. I will bring
+chiefs of the Pawnees and Mahas together, and make peace between them;
+but it is better that I should do it than my great father's sons, for
+they will listen to me more readily. I will also take some chiefs to
+your country in the spring; but before that time I cannot leave home. I
+went formerly to the English, and they gave me a medal and some clothes:
+when I went to the Spanish they gave me a medal, but nothing to keep it
+from my skin; but now you give me a medal and clothes. But still we are
+poor; and I wish, brothers, you would give us something for our squaws."
+
+"When he sat down, Mahtoree, or White Crane, rose:
+
+"I have listened," said he, "to what our father's words were yesterday;
+and I am, to-day, glad to see how you have dressed our old chief. I am a
+young man, and do not wish to take much: my fathers have made me a
+chief: I had much sense before, but now I think I have more than ever.
+What the old chief has declared I will confirm, and do whatever he and
+you please: but I wish that you would take pity on us, for we are very
+poor."
+
+Another chief, called Pawnawneahpahbe, then said;
+
+"I am a young man, and know but little: I cannot speak well; but I have
+listened to what you have told the old chief, and will do whatever you
+agree."
+
+The same sentiments were then repeated by Aweawechache.
+
+We were surprised at finding that the first of these titles means
+"Struck by the Pawnee," and was occasioned by some blow which the chief
+had received in battle, from one of the Pawnee tribe. The second is, in
+English, "Half Man," which seems a singular name for a warrior, till it
+was explained to have its origin, probably, in the modesty of the chief;
+who, on being told of his exploits, would say, "I am no warrior: I am
+only half a man." The other chiefs spoke very little; but after they had
+finished, one of the warriors delivered a speech, in which he declared
+he would support them. They promised to make peace with the Ottoes and
+Missouris, the only nations with whom they are at war. All these
+harangues concluded by describing the distress of the nation: they
+begged us to have pity on them: to send them traders: that they wanted
+powder and ball; and seemed anxious that we should supply them with some
+of their great father's milk, the name by which they distinguish ardent
+spirits. We then gave some tobacco to each of the chiefs, and a
+certificate to two of the warriors who attended the chief. We prevailed
+on Mr. Durion to remain here, and accompany as many of the Sioux chiefs
+as he could collect, down to the seat of government. We also gave his
+son a flag, some clothes, and provisions, with directions to bring about
+a peace between the surrounding tribe, and to convey some of their
+chiefs to see the president. In the evening they left us, and encamped
+on the opposite bank, accompanied by the two Durions. During the evening
+and night we had much rain, and observed that the river rises a little.
+The Indians, who have just left us, are the Yanktons, a tribe of the
+great nation of Sioux. These Yanktons are about two hundred men in
+number; and inhabit the Jacques, Desmoines, and Sioux rivers. In person
+they are stout, well proportioned, and have a certain air of dignity and
+boldness. In their dress they differ nothing from the other bands of the
+nation whom we saw, and will describe afterwards: they are fond of
+decorations, and use paint, and porcupine quills, and feathers. Some of
+them wore a kind of necklace of white bear's claws, three inches long,
+and closely strung together round their necks. They have only a few
+fowling pieces, being generally armed with bows and arrows, in which,
+however, they do not appear as expert as the more northern Indians. What
+struck us most was an institution, peculiar to them, and to the Kite
+Indians, further to the westward, from whom it is said to have been
+copied. It is an association of the most active and brave young men, who
+are bound to each other by attachment, secured by a vow, never to
+retreat before any danger, or give way to their enemies. In war they go
+forward without sheltering themselves behind trees, or aiding their
+natural valour by any artifice. This punctilious determination, not to
+be turned from their course, became heroic, or ridiculous, a short time
+since, when the Yanktons were crossing the Missouri on the ice. A hole
+lay immediately in their course, which might easily have been avoided,
+by going round. This the foremost of the band disdained to do; but went
+straight forward, and was lost. The others would have followed his
+example, but were forcibly prevented by the rest of the tribe. These
+young men sit, and encamp, and dance together, distinct from the rest of
+the nation: they are generally about thirty or thirty-five years old;
+and such is the deference paid to courage, that their seats in council
+are superior to those of the chiefs, and their persons more respected.
+But, as may be supposed, such indiscreet bravery will soon diminish the
+numbers of those who practise it; so that the band is now reduced to
+four warriors, who were among our visitors. These were the remains of
+twenty-two, who composed the society not long ago; but, in a battle with
+the Kite Indians, of the Black Mountains, eighteen of them were killed,
+and these four were dragged from the field by their companions.
+
+Whilst these Indians remained with us we made very minute inquiries
+relative to their situation and numbers, and trade, and manners. This we
+did very satisfactorily, by means of two different interpreters; and
+from their accounts, joined to our interviews with other bands of the
+same nation, and much intelligence acquired since, we were enabled to
+understand, with some accuracy, the condition of the Sioux hitherto so
+little known.
+
+The Sioux, or Dacorta Indians, originally settled on the Mississippi,
+and called by Carver, Madowesians, are now subdivided into tribes, as
+follow:
+
+First, The Yanktons: this tribe inhabits the Sioux, Desmoines, and
+Jacques rivers, and number about two hundred warriors.
+
+Second, The Tetons of the burnt woods. This tribe numbers about three
+hundred men, who rove on both sides of the Missouri, the White, and
+Teton rivers.
+
+Third. The Tetons Okandandas, a tribe consisting of about one hundred
+and fifty men, who inhabit both sides of the Missouri below the Chayenne
+river.
+
+Fourth, Tetons Minnakenozzo, a nation inhabiting both sides of the
+Missouri, above the Chayenne river, and containing about two hundred and
+fifty men.
+
+Fifth, Tetons Saone; these inhabit both sides of the Missouri below the
+Warreconne river, and consist of about three hundred men.
+
+Sixth, Yanktons of the Plains, or Big Devils; who rove on the heads of
+the Sioux, Jacques, and Red river; the most numerous of all the tribes,
+and number about five hundred men.
+
+Seventh, Wahpatone; a nation residing on the St. Peter's, just above the
+mouth of that river, and numbering two hundred men.
+
+Eighth, Mindawarcarton, or proper Dacorta or Sioux Indians. These
+possess the original seat of the Sioux, and are properly so denominated.
+They rove on both sides of the Mississippi, about the falls of St.
+Anthony, and consist of three hundred men.
+
+Ninth, The Wahpatoota, or Leaf Beds. This nation inhabits both sides of
+the river St. Peter's, below Yellow-wood river, amounting to about one
+hundred and fifty men.
+
+Tenth, Sistasoone: this nation numbers two hundred men, and reside at
+the head of the St. Peter's. Of these several tribes, more particular
+notice will be taken hereafter.
+
+Saturday, September 1, 1804. We proceeded this morning under a light
+southern breeze, and passed the Calumet bluffs; these are composed of a
+yellowish red, and brownish clay as hard as chalk, which it much
+resembles, and are one hundred and seventy, or one hundred and eighty
+feet high. At this place the hills on each side come to the verge of the
+river, those on the south being higher than on the north. Opposite the
+bluffs is a large island covered with timber; above which the highlands
+form a cliff over the river on the north side, called White Bear cliff;
+an animal of that kind being killed in one of the holes in it, which are
+numerous and apparently deep. At six miles we came to a large sand
+island covered with cottonwood; the wind was high, and the weather rainy
+and cloudy during the day. We made fifteen miles to a place on the north
+side, at the lower point of a large island called Bonhomme, or Goodman's
+island. The country on both sides has the same character of prairies,
+with no timber; with occasional lowlands covered with cottonwood, elm
+and oak: our hunters had killed an elk and a beaver: the catfish too are
+in great abundance.
+
+September 2. It rained last night, and this morning we had a high wind
+from the N.W. We went three miles to the lower part of an ancient
+fortification on the south side, and passed the head of Bonhomme island,
+which is large and well timbered: after this the wind became so violent,
+attended by a cold rain, that we were compelled to land at four miles on
+the northern side, under a high bluff of yellow clay, about one hundred
+and ten feet in height. Our hunters supplied us with four elk; and we
+had grapes and plums on the banks: we also saw the beargrass and rue, on
+the side of the bluffs. At this place there are highlands on both sides
+of the river which become more level at some distance back, and
+contain but few streams of water. On the southern bank, during this day,
+the grounds have not been so elevated. Captain Clarke crossed the river
+to examine the remains of the fortification we had just passed.
+
+                    [Illustration: Fortification]
+
+This interesting object is on the south side of the Missouri, opposite
+the upper extremity of Bonhomme island, and in a low level plain, the
+hills being three miles from the river. It begins by a wall composed of
+earth, rising immediately from the bank of the river and running in a
+direct course S. 76°, W. ninety six yards; the base of this wall or
+mound is seventy-five feet, and its height about eight. It then diverges
+in a course S. 84° W. and continues at the same height and depth to the
+distance of fifty-three yards, the angle being formed by a sloping
+descent; at the junction of these two is an appearance of a hornwork of
+the same height with the first angle: the same wall then pursues a
+course N. 69° W. for three hundred yards: near its western extremity is
+an opening or gateway at right angles to the wall, and projecting
+inwards; this gateway is defended by two nearly semicircular walls
+placed before it, lower than the large walls; and from the gateway there
+seems to have been a covered way communicating with the interval between
+these two walls: westward of the gate, the wall becomes much larger,
+being about one hundred and five feet at its base, and twelve feet high:
+at the end of this high ground the wall extends for fifty-six yards on a
+course N. 32° W; it then turns N. 23° W. for seventy-three yards: these
+two walls seems to have had a double or covered way; they are from ten
+to fifteen feet eight inches in height, and from seventy-five to one
+hundred and five feet in width at the base; the descent inwards being
+steep, whilst outwards it forms a sort of glacis. At the distance of
+seventy-three yards, the wall ends abruptly at a large hollow place much
+lower than the general level of the plain, and from which is some
+indication of a covered way to the water. The space between them is
+occupied by several mounds scattered promiscuously through the gorge, in
+the centre of which is a deep round hole. From the extremity of the last
+wall, in a course N. 32° W. is a distance of ninety-six yards over the
+low ground, where the wall recommences and crosses the plain in a course
+N. 81° W. for eighteen hundred and thirty yards to the bank of the
+Missouri. In this course its height is about eight feet, till it enters,
+at the distance of five hundred and thirty-three yards, a deep circular
+pond of seventy-three yards diameter; after which it is gradually lower,
+towards the river: it touches the river at a muddy bar, which bears
+every mark of being an encroachment of the water, for a considerable
+distance; and a little above the junction, is a small circular redoubt.
+Along the bank of the river, and at eleven hundred yards distance, in a
+straight line from this wall, is a second, about six feet high, and of
+considerable width: it rises abruptly from the bank of the Missouri, at
+a point where the river bends, and goes straight forward, forming an
+acute angle with the last wall, till it enters the river again, not far
+from the mounds just described, towards which it is obviously tending.
+At the bend the Missouri is five hundred yards wide; the ground on the
+opposite side highlands, or low hills on the bank; and where the river
+passes between this fort and Bonhomme island, all the distance from the
+bend, it is constantly washing the banks into the stream, a large
+sandbank being already taken from the shore near the wall. During the
+whole course of this wall, or glacis, it is covered with trees, among
+which are many large cotton trees, two or three feet in diameter.
+Immediately opposite the citadel, or the part most strongly fortified,
+on Bonhomme island, is a small work in a circular form, with a wall
+surrounding it, about six feet in height. The young willows along the
+water, joined to the general appearance of the two shores, induce a
+belief that the bank of the island is encroaching, and the Missouri
+indemnifies itself by washing away the base of the fortification. The
+citadel contains about twenty acres, but the parts between the long
+walls must embrace nearly five hundred acres.
+
+These are the first remains of the kind which we have had an opportunity
+of examining; but our French interpreters assure us, that there are
+great numbers of them on the Platte, the Kanzas, the Jacques, &c. and
+some of our party say, that they observed two of those fortresses on the
+upper side of the Petit Arc creek, not far from its mouth; that the wall
+was about six feet high, and the sides of the angles one hundred yards
+in length.
+
+September 3. The morning was cold, and the wind from the northwest. We
+passed at sunrise, three large sandbars, and at the distance of ten
+miles reached a small creek, about twelve yards wide, coming in from the
+north, above a white bluff: this creek has obtained the name of Plum
+creek, from the number of that fruit which are in the neighbourhood, and
+of a delightful quality. Five miles further, we encamped on the south
+near the edge of a plain; the river is wide, and covered with sandbars
+to-day: the banks are high and of a whitish colour; the timber scarce,
+but an abundance of grapes. Beaver houses too have been observed in
+great numbers on the river, but none of the animals themselves.
+
+September 4. We set out early, with a very cold wind from S.S.E. and at
+one mile and a half, reached a small creek, called Whitelime creek, on
+the south side. Just above this is a cliff, covered with cedar trees,
+and at three miles a creek, called Whitepaint creek, of about thirty
+yards wide: on the same side, and at four and a half miles distance from
+the Whitepaint creek, is the Rapid river, or, as it is called by the
+French, la Riverequi Court; this river empties into the Missouri, in a
+course S.W. by W. and is one hundred and fifty-two yards wide, and four
+feet deep at the confluence. It rises in the Black mountains, and passes
+through a hilly country, with a poor soil. Captain Clark ascended three
+miles to a beautiful plain, on the upper side, where the Pawnees once
+had a village: he found that the river widened above its mouth, and
+much divided by sands and islands, which, joined to the great rapidity
+of the current, makes the navigation very difficult, even for small
+boats. Like the Platte its waters are of a light colour; like that river
+too it throws out into the Missouri, great quantities of sand, coarser
+even than that of the Platte, which form sandbars and shoals near its
+mouth.
+
+We encamped just above it, on the south, having made only eight miles,
+as the wind shifted to the south, and blew so hard that in the course of
+the day we broke our mast: we saw some deer, a number of geese, and shot
+a turkey and a duck: the place in which we halted is a fine low-ground,
+with much timber, such as red cedar, honeylocust, oak, arrowwood, elm
+and coffeenut.
+
+September 5, Wednesday. The wind was again high from the south. At five
+miles, we came to a large island, called Pawnee island, in the middle of
+the river; and stopped to breakfast at a small creek on the north, which
+has the name of Goat creek, at eight and a half miles. Near the mouth of
+this creek the beaver had made a dam across so as to form a large pond,
+in which they built their houses. Above this island the river Poncara
+falls into the Missouri from the south, and is thirty yards wide at the
+entrance. Two men whom we despatched to the village of the same name,
+returned with information that they had found it on the lower side of
+the creek; but as this is the hunting season, the town was so completely
+deserted that they had killed a buffaloe in the village itself. This
+tribe of Poncaras, who are said to have once numbered four hundred men,
+are now reduced to about fifty, and have associated for mutual
+protection with the Mahas, who are about two hundred in number. These
+two nations are allied by a similarity of misfortune; they were once
+both numerous, both resided in villages, and cultivated Indian corn;
+their common enemies, the Sioux and small-pox, drove them from their
+towns, which they visit only occasionally for the purposes of trade;
+and they now wander over the plains on the sources of the Wolf and
+Quieurre rivers. Between the Pawnee island and Goat creek on the north,
+is a cliff of blue earth, under which are several mineral springs,
+impregnated with salts: near this we observed a number of goats, from
+which the creek derives its name. At three and a half miles from the
+creek, we came to a large island on the south, along which we passed to
+the head of it, and encamped about four o'clock. Here we replaced the
+mast we had lost, with a new one of cedar: some bucks and an elk were
+procured to-day, and a black tailed deer was seen near the Poncara's
+village.
+
+Thursday, September 6. There was a storm this morning from the N.W. and
+though it moderated, the wind was still high, and the weather very cold;
+the number of sandbars too, added to the rapidity of the current,
+obliged us to have recourse to the towline: with all our exertions we
+did not make more than eight and a half miles, and encamped on the
+north, after passing high cliffs of soft, blue, and red coloured stone,
+on the southern shore. We saw some goats, and great numbers of buffaloe,
+in addition to which the hunters furnished us with elk, deer, turkies,
+geese, and one beaver: a large catfish too was caught in the evening.
+The ground near the camp, was a low prarie, without timber, though just
+below is a grove of cottonwood.
+
+Friday, September 7. The morning was very cold and the wind southeast.
+At five and a half miles, we reached and encamped at the foot of a round
+mountain, on the south, having passed two small islands. This mountain,
+which is about three hundred feet at the base, forms a cone at the top,
+resembling a dome at a distance, and seventy feet or more above the
+surrounding highlands. As we descended from this dome, we arrived at a
+spot, on the gradual descent of the hill, nearly four acres in extent,
+and covered with small holes: these are the residence of a little
+animal, called by the French, petit chien (little dog) who sit erect
+near the mouth, and make a whistling noise, but when alarmed take refuge
+in their holes. In order to bring them out, we poured into one of the
+holes five barrels of water without filling it, but we dislodged and
+caught the owner. After digging down another of the holes for six feet,
+we found, on running a pole into it, that we had not yet dug half way to
+the bottom: we discovered, however, two frogs in the hole, and near it
+we killed a dark rattlesnake, which had swallowed a small prairie dog:
+we were also informed, though we never witnessed the fact, that a sort
+of lizard, and a snake, live habitually with these animals. The petit
+chien are justly named, as they resemble a small dog in some
+particulars, though they have also some points of similarity to the
+squirrel. The head resembles the squirrel in every respect, except that
+the ear is shorter, the tail like that of the ground-squirrel, the
+toe-nails are long, the fur is fine, and the long hair is gray.
+
+Saturday, September 8. The wind still continued from the southeast, but
+moderately. At seven miles we reached a house on the north side, called
+the Pawnee house, where a trader, named Trudeau, wintered in the year
+1796-7: behind this, hills, much higher than usual, appear to the north,
+about eight miles off. Before reaching this house, we came by three
+small islands, on the north side, and a small creek on the south; and
+after leaving it, reached another, at the end of seventeen miles, on
+which we encamped, and called it Boat island: we here saw herds of
+buffaloe, and some elk, deer, turkies, beaver, a squirrel, and a prairie
+dog. The party on the north represent the country through which they
+passed, as poor, rugged, and hilly, with the appearance of having been
+lately burnt by the Indians; the broken hills, indeed, approach the
+river on both sides, though each is bordered by a strip of woodland near
+the water.
+
+Sunday, September 9. We coasted along the island on which we had
+encamped, and then passed three sand and willow islands, and a number of
+smaller sandbars. The river is shallow, and joined by two small creeks
+from the north, and one from the south. In the plains, to the south,
+are great numbers of buffaloe, in herds of nearly five hundred; all
+the copses of timber appear to contain elk or deer. We encamped on a
+sandbar, on the southern shore, at the distance of fourteen and a
+quarter miles.
+
+September 10, Monday. The next day we made twenty miles. The morning was
+cloudy and dark, but a light breeze from the southeast carried us past
+two small islands on the south, and one on the north; till, at the
+distance of ten and a half miles, we reached an island, extending for
+two miles in the middle of the river, covered with red cedar, from which
+it derives its name of Cedar island. Just below this island, on a hill,
+to the south, is the backbone of a fish, forty-five feet long, tapering
+towards the tail, and in a perfect state of petrifaction, fragments of
+which were collected and sent to Washington. On both sides of the river
+are high dark-coloured bluffs. About a mile and a half from the island,
+on the southern shore, the party on that side discovered a large and
+very strong impregnated spring of water; and another, not so strongly
+impregnated, half a mile up the hill. Three miles beyond Cedar island is
+a large island on the north, and a number of sandbars. After which is
+another, about a mile in length, lying in the middle of the river, and
+separated by a small channel, at its extremity, from another above it,
+on which we encamped. These two islands are called Mud islands. The
+river is shallow during this day's course, and is falling a little. The
+elk and buffaloe are in great abundance, but the deer have become
+scarce.
+
+September 11, Tuesday. At six and a half miles we passed the upper
+extremity of an island on the south; four miles beyond which is another
+on the same side of the river; and about a quarter of a mile distant we
+visited a large village of the barking-squirrel. It was situated on a
+gentle declivity, and covered a space of nine hundred and seventy yards
+long, and eight hundred yards wide; we killed four of them. We then
+resumed our course, and during five and a half miles passed two islands
+on the north, and then encamped at the distance of sixteen miles, on the
+south side of the river, and just above a small run. The morning had
+been cloudy, but in the afternoon it began raining, with a high
+northwest wind, which continued during the greater part of the night.
+The country seen to-day consists of narrow strips of lowland, rising
+into uneven grounds, which are succeeded, at the distance of three
+miles, by rich and level plains, but without any timber. The river
+itself is wide, and crowded with sandbars. Elk, deer, squirrels, a
+pelican, and a very large porcupine, were our game this day; some foxes
+too were seen, but not caught.
+
+In the morning we observed a man riding on horseback down towards the
+boat, and we were much pleased to find that it was George Shannon, one
+of our party, for whose safety we had been very uneasy. Our two horses
+having strayed from us on the 26th of August, he was sent to search for
+them. After he had found them he attempted to rejoin us, but seeing some
+other tracks, which must have been those of Indians, and which he
+mistook for our own, he concluded that we were ahead, and had been for
+sixteen days following the bank of the river above us. During the first
+four days he exhausted his bullets, and was then nearly starved, being
+obliged to subsist, for twelve days, on a few grapes, and a rabbit which
+he killed by making use of a hard piece of stick for a ball. One of his
+horses gave out, and was left behind; the other he kept as a last
+resource for food. Despairing of overtaking us, he was returning down
+the river, in hopes of meeting some other boat; and was on the point of
+killing his horse, when he was so fortunate as to join us.
+
+Wednesday, September 12. The day was dark and cloudy; the wind from the
+northwest. At a short distance we reached an island in the middle of the
+river, which is covered with timber, a rare object now. We with great
+difficulty were enabled to struggle through the sandbars, the water
+being very rapid and shallow, so that we were several hours in making a
+mile. Several times the boat wheeled on the bar, and the men were
+obliged to jump out and prevent her from upsetting; at others, after
+making a way up one channel, the shoalness of the water forced us back
+to seek the deep channel. We advanced only four miles in the whole day
+and encamped on the south. Along both sides of the river are high
+grounds; on the southern side particularly, they form dark bluffs, in
+which may be observed slate and coal intermixed. We saw also several
+villages of barking-squirrels; great numbers of growse, and three foxes.
+
+September 13, Thursday. We made twelve miles to-day through a number of
+sandbars, which make it difficult to find the proper channel. The hills
+on each side are high, and separated from the river by a narrow plain on
+its borders. On the north, these lowlands are covered in part with
+timber, and great quantities of grapes, which are now ripe: on the south
+we found plenty of plums, but they are not yet ripe; and near the dark
+bluffs, a run tainted with allum and copperas; the southern side being
+more strongly impregnated with minerals than the northern. Last night
+four beaver were caught in the traps; a porcupine was shot as it was
+upon a cottontree, feeding on its leaves and branches. We encamped on
+the north side, opposite to a small willow island. At night the
+musquitoes were very troublesome, though the weather was cold and rainy
+and the wind from the northwest.
+
+Friday, September 14. At two miles we reached a round island on the
+northern side; at about five, a run on the south; two and a half miles
+further, a small creek; and at nine miles encamped near the month of a
+creek, on the same side. The sandbars are very numerous, and render the
+river wide and shallow, and obliged the crew to get into the water and
+drag the boat over the bars several times. During the whole day we
+searched along the southern shore, and at some distance into the
+interior, to find an ancient volcano which we heard at St. Charles was
+somewhere in this neighbourhood; but we could not discern the slightest
+appearance of any thing volcanic. In the course of their search the
+party shot a buck-goat and a hare. The hills, particularly on the south,
+continue high, but the timber is confined to the islands and banks of
+the river. We had occasion here to observe the rapid undermining of
+these hills by the Missouri: the first attacks seem to be on the hills
+which overhang the river; as soon as the violence of the current
+destroys the grass at the foot of them, the whole texture appears
+loosened, and the ground dissolves and mixes with the water: the muddy
+mixture is then forced over the low-grounds, which it covers sometimes
+to the depth of three inches, and gradually destroys the herbage; after
+which it can offer no resistance to the water, and becomes at last
+covered with sand.
+
+Saturday, September 15. We passed, at an early hour, the creek near our
+last night's encampment; and at two miles distance reached the mouth of
+White river, coming in from the south. We ascended a short distance, and
+sent a sergeant and another man to examine it higher up. This river has
+a bed of about three hundred yards, though the water is confined to one
+hundred and fifty: in the mouth is a sand island, and several sandbars.
+The current is regular and swift, with sandbars projecting from the
+points. It differs very much from the Platte, and Quieurre, in throwing
+out, comparatively, little sand, but its general character is like that
+of the Missouri. This resemblance was confirmed by the sergeant, who
+ascended about twelve miles; at which distance it was about the same
+width as near the mouth, and the course, which was generally west, had
+been interrupted by islands and sandbars. The timber consisted chiefly
+of elm; they saw pine burrs, and sticks of birch were seen floating down
+the river; they had also met with goats, such as we have heretofore
+seen; great quantities of buffaloe, near to which were wolves, some
+deer, and villages of barking squirrels. At the confluence of White
+river with the Missouri is an excellent position for a town; the land
+rising by three gradual ascents, and the neighbourhood furnishing more
+timber than is usual in this country. After passing high dark bluffs on
+both sides, we reached the lower point of an island towards the south,
+at the distance of six miles. The island bears an abundance of grapes,
+and is covered with red cedar: it also contains a number of rabbits. At
+the end of this island, which is small, a narrow channel separates it
+from a large sand island, which we passed, and encamped, eight miles on
+the north, under a high point of land opposite a large creek to the
+south, on which we observe an unusual quantity of timber. The wind was
+from the northwest this afternoon, and high, the weather cold, and its
+dreariness increased by the howlings of a number of wolves around us.
+
+September 16, Sunday. Early this morning, having reached a convenient
+spot on the south side, and at one mile and a quarter distance, we
+encamped just above a small creek, which we called Corvus, having killed
+an animal of that genus near it. Finding that we could not proceed over
+the sandbars, as fast as we desired, while the boat was so heavily
+loaded, we concluded not to send back, as we originally intended, our
+third periogue, but to detain the soldiers until spring, and in the mean
+time lighten the boat by loading the periogue: this operation, added to
+that of drying all our wet articles, detained us during the day. Our
+camp is in a beautiful plain, with timber thinly scattered for three
+quarters of a mile, and consisting chiefly of elm, cottonwood, some ash
+of an indifferent quality, and a considerable quantity of a small
+species of white oak: this tree seldom rises higher than thirty feet,
+and branches very much; the bark is rough, thick and of a light colour;
+the leaves small, deeply indented, and of a pale green; the cup which
+contains the acorn is fringed on the edges, and embraces it about one
+half: the acorn itself, which grows in great profusion, is of an
+excellent flavour, and has none of the roughness which most other acorns
+possess; they are now falling, and have probably attracted the number of
+deer which we saw on this place, as all the animals we have seen are
+fond of that food. The ground having been recently burnt by the Indians,
+is covered with young green grass, and in the neighbourhood are great
+quantities of fine plums. We killed a few deer for the sake of their
+skins, which we wanted to cover the periogues, the meat being too poor
+for food: the cold season coming on, a flannel shirt was given to each
+man, and fresh powder to those who had exhausted their supply.
+
+Monday, September 16. Whilst some of the party were engaged in the same
+way as yesterday, others were employed in examining the surrounding
+country. About a quarter of a mile behind our camp, and at an elevation
+of twenty feet above it, a plain extends nearly three miles parallel to
+the river, and about a mile back to the hills, towards which it
+gradually ascends. Here we saw a grove of plum-trees loaded with fruit,
+now ripe, and differing in nothing from those of the Atlantic states,
+except that the tree is smaller and more thickly set. The ground of the
+plain is occupied by the burrows of multitudes of barking squirrels, who
+entice hither the wolves of a small kind, hawks, and polecats, all of
+which animals we saw, and presumed that they fed on the squirrel. This
+plain is intersected nearly in its whole extent by deep ravines and
+steep irregular rising grounds from one to two hundred feet. On
+ascending the range of hills which border the plain, we saw a second
+high level plain stretching to the south as far as the eye could reach.
+To the westward, a high range of hills about twenty miles distant runs
+nearly north and south, but not to any great extent, as their rise and
+termination is embraced by one view, and they seemed covered with a
+verdure similar to that of the plains. The same view extended over the
+irregular hills which border the northern side of the Missouri; all
+around the country had been recently burnt, and a young green grass
+about four inches high covered the ground, which was enlivened by herds
+of antelopes and buffaloe; the last of which were in such multitudes,
+that we cannot exaggerate in saying that at a single glance we saw three
+thousand of them before us. Of all the animals we had seen the antelope
+seems to possess the most wonderful fleetness: shy and timorous they
+generally repose only on the ridges, which command a view of all the
+approaches of an enemy: the acuteness of their sight distinguishes the
+most distant danger, the delicate sensibility of their smell defeats the
+precautions of concealment, and when alarmed their rapid career seems
+more like the flight of birds than the movements of an earthly being.
+After many unsuccessful attempts, captain Lewis at last, by winding
+around the ridges, approached a party of seven, which were on an
+eminence, towards which the wind was unfortunately blowing. The only
+male of the party frequently encircled the summit of the hill, as if to
+announce any danger to the females, who formed a group at the top.
+Although they did not see captain Lewis, the smell alarmed them, and
+they fled when he was at the distance of two hundred yards: he
+immediately ran to the spot where they had been, a ravine concealed them
+from him, but the next moment they appeared on a second ridge at the
+distance of three miles. He doubted whether it could be the same, but
+their number and the extreme rapidity with which they continued their
+course, convinced him that they must have gone with a speed equal to
+that of the most distinguished racehorse. Among our acquisitions to-day
+was a mule-deer, a magpie, the common deer, and buffaloe: captain Lewis
+also saw a hare, and killed a rattlesnake near the burrows of the
+barking squirrels.
+
+Tuesday, September 18. Having everything in readiness we proceeded,
+with the boat much lightened, but the wind being from the N.W. we made
+but little way. At one mile we reached an island in the middle of the
+river, nearly a mile in length, and covered with red cedar; at its
+extremity a small creek comes in from the north; we then met some
+sandbars, and the wind being very high and ahead, we encamped on the
+south, having made only seven miles. In addition to the common deer,
+which were in great abundance, we saw goats, elk, buffaloe, the black
+tailed deer; the large wolves too are very numerous, and have long hair
+with coarse fur, and are of a light colour. A small species of wolf
+about the size of a gray fox was also killed, and proved to be the
+animal which we had hitherto mistaken for a fox: there are also many
+porcupines, rabbits, and barking squirrels in the neighbourhood.
+
+September 19. We this day enjoyed a cool clear morning, and a wind from
+the southeast. We reached at three miles a bluff on the south, and four
+miles farther, the lower point of Prospect island, about two and a half
+miles in length; opposite to this are high bluffs, about eighty feet
+above the water, beyond which are beautiful plains gradually rising as
+they recede from the river: these are watered by three streams which
+empty near each other; the first is about thirty-five yards wide, the
+ground on its sides high and rich, with some timber; the second about
+twelve yards wide, but with less timber; the third is nearly of the same
+size, and contains more water, but it scatters its waters over the large
+timbered plain, and empties itself into the river at three places. These
+rivers are called by the French Les trois rivieres des Sioux, the three
+Sioux rivers; and as the Sioux generally cross the Missouri at this
+place, it is called the Sioux pass of the three rivers. These streams
+have the same right of asylum, though in a less degree than Pipestone
+creek already mentioned.
+
+Two miles from the island we passed a creek fifteen yards wide; eight
+miles further, another twenty yards wide; three miles beyond which, is a
+third of eighteen yards width, all on the south side: the second which
+passes through a high plain we called Elm creek; to the third we gave
+the name of Night creek, having reached it late at night. About a mile
+beyond this is a small island on the north side of the river, and is
+called Lower island, as it is situated at the commencement of what is
+known by the name of the Grand Detour, or Great Bend of the Missouri.
+Opposite is a creek on the south about ten yards wide, which waters a
+plain where there are great numbers of the prickley pear, which name we
+gave to the creek. We encamped on the south, opposite the upper
+extremity of the island, having made an excellent day's sail of twenty
+six and a quarter miles. Our game this day consisted chiefly of deer, of
+these four were black tails, one a buck with two main prongs of horns on
+each side and forked equally. Large herds of buffaloe, elk and goats,
+were also seen.
+
+Thursday, September 20. Finding we had reached the Big Bend, we
+despatched two men with our only horse across the neck, to hunt there
+and wait our arrival at the first creek beyond it. We then set out with
+fair weather and the wind from S.E. to make the circuit of the bend.
+Near the lower island the sandbars are numerous, and the river shallow.
+At nine and a half miles is a sand island, on the southern side. About
+ten miles beyond it is a small island on the south, opposite to a small
+creek on the north. This island, which is near the N.W. extremity of the
+bend, is called Solitary island. At about eleven miles further, we
+encamped on a sandbar, having made twenty-seven and a half miles.
+Captain Clarke, who early this morning had crossed the neck of the bend,
+joined us in the evening. At the narrowest part, the gorge is composed
+of high and irregular hills of about one hundred and eighty or one
+hundred and ninety feet in elevation; from this descends an unbroken
+plain over the whole of the bend, and the country is separated from it
+by this ridge. Great numbers of buffaloe, elk, and goats are wandering
+over these plains, accompanied by grouse and larks. Captain Clarke saw a
+hare also, on the Great Bend. Of the goats killed to-day, one is a
+female differing from the male in being smaller in size; its horns too
+are smaller and straighter, having one short prong, and no black about
+the neck: none of these goats have any beard, but are delicately formed,
+and very beautiful.
+
+Friday, September 21. Between one and two o'clock the serjeant on guard
+alarmed us, by crying that the sandbar on which we lay was sinking; we
+jumped up, and found that both above and below our camp the sand was
+undermined and falling in very fast: we had scarcely got into the boats
+and pushed off, when the bank under which they had been lying, fell in,
+and would certainly have sunk the two periogues if they had remained
+there. By the time we reached the opposite shore the ground of our
+encampment sunk also. We formed a second camp for the rest of the night;
+and at daylight proceeded on to the gorge or throat of the Great Bend,
+where we breakfasted. A man, whom we had despatched to step off the
+distance across the bend, made it two thousand yards: the circuit is
+thirty miles. During the whole course, the land of the bend is low, with
+occasional bluffs; that on the opposite side, high prairie ground, and
+long ridges of dark bluffs. After breakfast, we passed through a high
+prairie on the north side, and a rich cedar lowland and cedar bluff on
+the south, till we reached a willow island below the mouth of a small
+creek. This creek, called Tyler's river, is about thirty-five yards
+wide, comes in on the south, and is at the distance of six miles from
+the neck of the Great Bend. Here we found a deer, and the skin of a
+white wolf, left us by our hunters ahead: large quantities of different
+kinds of plover and brants are in this neighbourhood, and seen
+collecting and moving towards the south; the catfish are small, and not
+in such plenty as we had found them below this place. We passed several
+sandbars, which make the river very shallow and about a mile in width,
+and encamped on the south, at the distance of eleven and a half miles.
+On each side the shore is lined with hard rough gulleystones, rolled
+from the hills and small brooks. The most common timber is the cedar,
+though, in the prairies, there are great quantities of the prickly pear.
+From this place we passed several sandbars, which make the river
+shallow, and about a mile in width. At the distance of eleven and a half
+miles, we encamped on the north at the lower point of an ancient island,
+which has since been connected with the main land by the filling up of
+the northern channel, and is now covered with cottonwood. We here saw
+some tracks of Indians, but they appeared three or four weeks old. This
+day was warm.
+
+September 22. A thick fog detained us until seven o'clock; our course
+was through inclined prairies on each side of the river, crowded with
+buffaloe. We halted at a point on the north side, near a high bluff on
+the south, and took a meridian altitude, which gave us the latitude of
+44° 11' 33-3/10". On renewing our course, we reached first a small
+island on the south, at the distance of four and a half miles,
+immediately above which is another island opposite to a creek fifteen
+yards wide. This creek, and the two islands, one of which is half a mile
+long, and the second three miles, are called the Three Sisters: a
+beautiful plain extending on both sides of the river. This is followed
+by an island on the north, called Cedar island, about one mile and a
+half in length and the same distance in breadth, and deriving its name
+from the quality of the timber. On the south side of this island, is a
+fort and a large trading house, built by a Mr. Loisel, who wintered here
+during the last year, in order to trade with the Sioux, the remains of
+whose camps are in great numbers about this place. The establishment is
+sixty or seventy feet square, built with red cedar and picketted in
+with the same materials. The hunters who had been sent ahead joined us
+here. They mention that the hills are washed in gullies, in passing over
+which, some mineral substances had rotted and destroyed their moccasins;
+they had killed two deer and a beaver. At sixteen miles distance we came
+to on the north side at the mouth of a small creek. The large stones
+which we saw yesterday on the shores are now some distance in the river,
+and render the navigation dangerous. The musquitoes are still numerous
+in the low grounds.
+
+Sunday, September 23. We passed, with a light breeze from the southeast,
+a small island on the north, called Goat island; above which is a small
+creek, called by the party Smoke creek, as we observed a great smoke to
+the southwest on approaching it. At ten miles we came to the lower point
+of a large island, having passed two small willow islands with sandbars
+projecting from them. This island, which we called Elk island, is about
+two and a half miles long, and three quarters of a mile wide, situated
+near the south, and covered with cottonwood, the red currant, and
+grapes. The river is here almost straight for a considerable distance,
+wide and shallow, with many sandbars. A small creek on the north, about
+sixteen yards wide, we called Reuben's creek; as Reuben Fields, one of
+our men, was the first of the party who reached it. At a short distance
+above this we encamped for the night, having made twenty miles. The
+country, generally, consists of low, rich, timbered ground on the north,
+and high barren lands on the south: on both sides great numbers of
+buffaloe are feeding. In the evening three boys of the Sioux nation swam
+across the river, and informed us that two parties of Sioux were
+encamped on the next river, one consisting of eighty, and the second of
+sixty lodges, at some distance above. After treating them kindly we sent
+them back with a present of two carrots of tobacco to their chiefs, whom
+we invited to a conference in the morning.
+
+Monday, September 24. The wind was from the east, and the day fair; we
+soon passed a handsome prairie on the north side, covered with ripe
+plums, and the mouth of a creek on the south, called Highwater creek, a
+little above our encampment. At about five miles we reached an island
+two and a half miles in length, and situated near the south. Here we
+were joined by one of our hunters, who procured four elk, but whilst he
+was in pursuit of the game the Indians had stolen his horse. We left the
+island, and soon overtook five Indians on the shore: we anchored and
+told them from the boat we were friends and wished to continue so, but
+were not afraid of any Indians; that some of their young men had stolen
+the horse which their great father had sent for their great chief, and
+that we could not treat with them until he was restored. They said that
+they knew nothing of the horse, but if he had been taken he should be
+given up. We went on, and at eleven and a half miles, passed an island
+on the north, which we called Good-humoured island; it is about one and
+a half miles long, and abounds in elk. At thirteen and a half miles, we
+anchored one hundred yards off the mouth of a river on the south side,
+where we were joined by both the periogues and encamped; two thirds of
+the party remained on board, and the rest went as a guard on shore with
+the cooks and one periogue; we have seen along the sides of the hills on
+the north a great deal of stone; besides the elk, we also observed a
+hare; the five Indians whom we had seen followed us, and slept with the
+guard on shore. Finding one of them was a chief we smoked with him, and
+made him a present of tobacco. This river is about seventy yards wide,
+and has a considerable current. As the tribe of the Sioux which inhabit
+it are called Teton, we gave it the name of Teton river.
+
+
+
+
+                                CHAP. IV.
+
+     Council held with the Tetons--Their manners, dances, &c.--Chayenne
+     River--Council held with the Ricara Indians--Their manners and
+     habits--Strange instance of Ricara idolatry--Another
+     instance--Cannonball river--Arrival among the Mandans--Character of
+     the surrounding country, and of the creeks, islands, &c.
+
+
+September 25. The morning was fine, and the wind continued from the
+southeast. We raised a flagstaff and an awning, under which we assembled
+at twelve o'clock, with all the party parading under arms. The chiefs
+and warriors from the camp two miles up the river, met us, about fifty
+or sixty in number, and after smoking delivered them a speech; but as
+our Sioux interpreter, Mr. Durion, had been left with the Yanktons, we
+were obliged to make use of a Frenchman who could not speak fluently,
+and therefore we curtailed our harangue. After this we went through the
+ceremony of acknowledging the chiefs, by giving to the grand chief a
+medal, a flag of the United States, a laced uniform coat, a cocked hat
+and feather: to the two other chiefs a medal and some small presents;
+and to two warriors of consideration certificates. The name of the great
+chief is Untongasabaw, or Black Buffaloe; the second Tortohonga, or the
+Partisan; the third Tartongawaka, or Buffaloe Medicine: the name of one
+of the warriors was Wawzinggo; that of the second Matocoquepa, or Second
+Bear. We then invited the chiefs on board, and showed them the boat, the
+airgun, and such curiosities as we thought might amuse them: In this we
+succeeded too well; for after giving them a quarter of a glass of
+whiskey, which they seemed to like very much, and sucked the bottle, it
+was with much difficulty that we could get rid of them. They at last
+accompanied captain Clarke on shore in a periogue with five men; but it
+seems they had formed a design to stop us; for no sooner had the party
+landed than three of the Indians seized the cable of the periogue, and
+one of the soldiers of the chief put his arms round the mast: the second
+chief who affected intoxication, then said, that we should not go on,
+that they had not received presents enough from us; captain Clarke told
+him that he would not be prevented from going on; that we were not
+squaws, but warriors; that we were sent by our great father, who could
+in a moment exterminate them: the chief replied, that he too had
+warriors, and was proceeding to offer personal violence to captain
+Clarke, who immediately drew his sword, and made a signal to the boat to
+prepare for action. The Indians who surrounded him, drew their arrows
+from their quivers and were bending their bows, when the swivel in the
+boat was instantly pointed towards them, and twelve of our most
+determined men jumped into the periogue and joined captain Clarke. This
+movement made an impression on them, for the grand chief ordered the
+young men away from the periogue, and they withdrew and held a short
+council with the warriors. Being unwilling to irritate them, captain
+Clarke then went forward and offered his hand to the first and second
+chiefs, who refused to take it. He then turned from them and got into
+the periogue, but had not gone more than ten paces when both the chiefs
+and two of the warriors waded in after him, and he brought them on
+board. We then proceeded on for a mile and anchored off a willow island,
+which from the circumstances which had just occurred, we called
+Badhumoured island.
+
+Wednesday, September 26. Our conduct yesterday seemed to have inspired
+the Indians with fear of us, and as we were desirous of cultivating
+their acquaintance, we complied with their wish that we should give them
+an opportunity of treating us well, and also suffer their squaws and
+children to see us and our boat, which would be perfectly new to them.
+Accordingly, after passing at one and a half mile a small willow island
+and several sandbars, we came to on the south side, where a crowd of
+men, women and children were waiting to receive us. Captain Lewis went
+on shore and remained several hours, and observing that their
+disposition was friendly we resolved to remain during the night to a
+dance, which they were preparing for us. Captains Lewis and Clarke, who
+went on shore one after the other, were met on landing by ten well
+dressed young men, who took them up in a robe highly decorated and
+carried them to a large council house, where they were placed on a
+dressed buffaloe skin by the side of the grand chief. The hall or
+council-room was in the shape of three quarters of a circle, covered at
+the top and sides with skins well dressed and sewed together. Under this
+shelter sat about seventy men, forming a circle round the chief, before
+whom were placed a Spanish flag and the one we had given them yesterday.
+This left a vacant circle of about six feet diameter, in which the pipe
+of peace was raised on two forked sticks, about six or eight inches from
+the ground, and under it the down of the swan was scattered: a large
+fire, in which they were cooking provisions, stood near, and in the
+centre about four hundred pounds of excellent buffaloe meat as a present
+for us. As soon as we were seated, an old man got up, and after
+approving what we had done, begged us to take pity on their unfortunate
+situation. To this we replied with assurances of protection. After he
+had ceased, the great chief rose and delivered an harangue to the same
+effect: then with great solemnity he took some of the most delicate
+parts of the dog, which was cooked for the festival, and held it to the
+flag by way of sacrifice: this done, he held up the pipe of peace, and
+first pointed it towards the heavens, then to the four quarters of the
+globe, and then to the earth, made a short speech, lighted the pipe, and
+presented it to us. We smoked, and he again harangued his people, after
+which the repast was served up to us. It consisted of the dog which they
+had just been cooking, this being a great dish among the Sioux and used
+on all festivals; to this were added, pemitigon, a dish made of buffaloe
+meat, dried or jerked, and then pounded and mixed raw with grease and a
+kind of ground potatoe, dressed like the preparation of Indian corn
+called hominy, to which it is little inferior. Of all these luxuries
+which were placed before us in platters with horn spoons, we took the
+pemitigon and the potatoe, which we found good, but we could as yet
+partake but sparingly of the dog. We eat and smoked for an hour, when it
+became dark: every thing was then cleared away for the dance, a large
+fire being made in the centre of the house, giving at once light and
+warmth to the ballroom. The orchestra was composed of about ten men, who
+played on a sort of tambourin, formed of skin stretched across a hoop;
+and made a jingling noise with a long stick to which the hoofs of deer
+and goats were hung; the third instrument was a small skin bag with
+pebbles in it: these, with five or six young men for the vocal part,
+made up the band. The women then came forward highly decorated; some
+with poles in their hands, on which were hung the scalps of their
+enemies; others with guns, spears or different trophies, taken in war by
+their husbands, brothers, or connexions. Having arranged themselves in
+two columns, one on each side of the fire, as soon as the music began
+they danced towards each other till they met in the centre, when the
+rattles were shaken, and they all shouted and returned back to their
+places. They have no step, but shuffle along the ground; nor does the
+music appear to be any thing more than a confusion of noises,
+distinguished only by hard or gentle blows upon the buffaloe skin: the
+song is perfectly extemporaneous. In the pauses of the dance, any man of
+the company comes forward and recites, in a sort of low guttural tone,
+some little story or incident, which is either martial or ludicrous; or,
+as was the case this evening, voluptuous and indecent; this is taken up
+by the orchestra and the dancers, who repeat it in a higher strain and
+dance to it. Sometimes they alternate; the orchestra first performing,
+and when it ceases, the women raise their voices and make a music more
+agreeable, that is, less intolerable than that of the musicians. The
+dances of the men, which are always separate from those of the women,
+are conducted very nearly in the same way, except that the men jump up
+and down instead of shuffling; and in the war dances the recitations are
+all of a military cast. The harmony of the entertainment had nearly been
+disturbed by one of the musicians, who thinking he had not received a
+due share of the tobacco we had distributed during the evening, put
+himself into a passion, broke one of the drums, threw two of them into
+the fire, and left the band. They were taken out of the fire: a buffaloe
+robe held in one hand and beaten with the other, by several of the
+company, supplied the place of the lost drum or tambourin, and no notice
+was taken of the offensive conduct of the man. We staid till twelve
+o'clock at night, when we informed the chiefs that they must be fatigued
+with all these attempts to amuse us, and retired accompanied by four
+chiefs, two of whom spent the night with us on board.
+
+While on shore we saw twenty-five squaws, and about the same number of
+children, who had been taken prisoners two weeks ago, in a battle with
+their countrymen the Mahas. In this engagement the Sioux destroyed forty
+lodges, killed seventy-five men, of which we saw many of the scalps, and
+took these prisoners; their appearance is wretched and dejected; the
+women too seem low in stature, coarse and ugly; though their present
+condition may diminish their beauty. We gave them a variety of small
+articles, such as awls and needles, and interceded for them with the
+chiefs, to whom we recommended to follow the advice of their great
+father, to restore the prisoners and live in peace with the Mahas, which
+they promised to do.
+
+The tribe which we this day saw, are a part of the great Sioux nation,
+and are known by the name of the Teton Okandandas: they are about two
+hundred men in number, and their chief residence is on both sides of the
+Missouri, between the Chayenne and Teton rivers. In their persons they
+are rather ugly and ill made, their legs and arms being too small, their
+cheekbones high, and their eyes projecting. The females, with the same
+character of form, are more handsome; and both sexes appear cheerful and
+sprightly; but in our intercourse with them we discovered that they were
+cunning and vicious.
+
+The men shave the hair off their heads, except a small tuft on the top,
+which they suffer to grow and wear in plaits over the shoulders; to this
+they seem much attached, as the loss of it is the usual sacrifice at the
+death of near relations. In full dress, the men of consideration wear
+a hawk's feather, or calumet feather worked with porcupine quills, and
+fastened to the top of the head, from which it falls back. The face and
+body are generally painted with a mixture of grease and coal. Over the
+shoulders is a loose robe or mantle of buffaloe skin dressed white,
+adorned with porcupine quills loosely fixed so as to make a gingling
+noise when in motion, and painted with various uncouth figures
+unintelligible to us, but to them emblematic of military exploits, or
+any other incident; the hair of the robe is worn next the skin in fair
+weather, but when it rains the hair is put outside, and the robe is
+either thrown over the arm, or wrapped round the body, all of which it
+may cover. Under this in the winter season they wear a kind of shirt
+resembling ours, and made either of skin or cloth, and covering the arms
+and body. Round the middle is fixed a girdle of cloth or procured
+dressed elk-skin, about an inch in width and closely tied to the body,
+to this is attached a piece of cloth or blanket or skin about a foot
+wide, which passes between the legs and is tucked under the girdle both
+before and behind; from the hip to the ancle he is covered by leggings
+of dressed antelope skins, with seams at the sides two inches in width,
+and ornamented by little tufts of hair the produce of the scalps they
+have made in war, which are scattered down the leg. The winter moccasins
+are of dressed buffaloe-skin, the hair being worn inwards, and soaled
+with thick elk-skin parchment: those for summer are of deer or elk-skin,
+dressed without the hair, and with soals of elk-skin. On great
+occasions, or wherever they are in full dress, the young men drag after
+them the entire skin of a polecat fixed to the heel of the moccasin.
+Another skin of the same animal is either tucked into the girdle or
+carried in the hand, and serves as a pouch for their tobacco, or what
+the French traders call the bois roule: this is the inner bark of a
+species of red willow, which being dried in the sun or over the fire, is
+rubbed between the hands and broken into small pieces, and is used alone
+or mixed with tobacco. The pipe is generally of red earth, the stem made
+of ash, about three or four feet long, and highly decorated with
+feathers, hair and porcupine quills.
+
+The hair of the women is suffered to grow long, and is parted from the
+forehead across the head, at the back of which it is either collected
+into a kind of bag, or hangs down over the shoulders. Their moccasins
+are like those of the men, as are also the leggings, which do not
+however reach beyond the knee, where it is met by a long loose shift of
+skin which reaches nearly to the ancles: this is fastened over the
+shoulders by a string and has no sleeves, but a few pieces of the skin
+hang a short distance down the arm. Sometimes a girdle fastens this skin
+round the waist, and over all is thrown a robe like that worn by the
+men. They seem fond of dress. Their lodges are very neatly constructed,
+in the same form as those of the Yanktons; they consist of about one
+hundred cabins, made of white buffaloe hide dressed, with a larger one
+in the centre for holding councils and dances. They are built round with
+poles about fifteen or twenty feet high, covered with white skins; these
+lodges may be taken to pieces, packed up, and carried with the nation
+wherever they go, by dogs which bear great burdens. The women are
+chiefly employed in dressing buffaloe skins: they seem perfectly well
+disposed, but are addicted to stealing any thing which they can take
+without being observed. This nation, although it makes so many ravages
+among its neighbours, is badly supplied with guns. The water which they
+carry with them is contained chiefly in the paunches of deer and other
+animals, and they make use of wooden bowls. Some had their heads shaved,
+which we found was a species of mourning for relations. Another usage,
+on these occasions, is to run arrows through the flesh both above and
+below the elbow.
+
+While on shore to-day we witnessed a quarrel between two squaws, which
+appeared to be growing every moment more boisterous, when a man came
+forward, at whose approach every one seemed terrified and ran. He took
+the squaws, and without any ceremony whipped them severely; on inquiring
+into the nature of such summary justice, we learnt that this man was an
+officer well known to this and many other tribes. His duty is to keep
+the peace, and the whole interior police of the village is confided to
+two or three of these officers, who are named by the chief and remain in
+power some days, at least till the chief appoints a successor; they seem
+to be a sort of constable or sentinel, since they are always on the
+watch to keep tranquillity during the day, and guarding the camp in the
+night. The short duration of their office is compensated by its
+authority: his power is supreme, and in the suppression of any riot or
+disturbance no resistance to him is suffered: his person is sacred, and
+if in the execution of his duty he strikes even a chief of the second
+class, he cannot be punished for this salutary insolence. In general
+they accompany the person of the chief, and when ordered to any duty,
+however dangerous, it is a point of honour rather to die than to refuse
+obedience. Thus, when they attempted to stop us yesterday, the chief
+ordered one of these men to take possession of the boat: he immediately
+put his arms round the mast, and, as we understood, no force except the
+command of the chief would have induced him to release his hold. Like
+the other men their bodies are blackened, but their distinguishing mark
+is a collection of two or three raven skins fixed to the girdle behind
+the back in such a way, that the tails stick out horizontally from the
+body. On his head too is a raven skin split into two parts, and tied so
+as to let the beak project from the forehead.
+
+Thursday September 27. We rose early, and the two chiefs took off, as a
+matter of course and according to their custom, the blanket on which
+they had slept. To this we added a peck of corn as a present to each.
+Captain Lewis and the chiefs went on shore to see a part of the nation
+that was expected, but did not come. He returned at two o'clock, with
+four of the chiefs and a warrior of distinction, called Wadrapa, (or on
+his guard); they examined the boat and admired whatever was strange,
+during half an hour, when they left it with great reluctance. Captain
+Clarke accompanied them to the lodge of the grand chief, who invited
+them to a dance, where, being joined by captain Lewis, they remained
+till a late hour. The dance was very similar to that of yesterday. About
+twelve we left them, taking the second chief and one principal warrior
+on board: as we came near the boat the man who steered the periogue, by
+mistake, brought her broadside against the boat's cable, and broke it.
+We called up all hands to their oars; but our noise alarmed the two
+Indians: they called out to their companions, and immediately the whole
+camp crowded to the shore; but after half an hour they returned, leaving
+about sixty men near us. The alarm given by the chiefs was said to be
+that the Mahas had attacked us, and that they were desirous of assisting
+us to repel it; but we suspected that they were afraid we meant to set
+sail, and intended to prevent us from doing so; for in the night the
+Maha prisoners had told one of our men, who understood the language,
+that we were to be stopped. We therefore, without giving any indication
+of our suspicion, prepared every thing for an attack, as the loss of our
+anchor obliged to come to near a falling bank, very unfavourable for
+defence. We were not mistaken in these opinions; for when in the
+morning,
+
+Friday, September 28, after dragging unsuccessfully for the anchor, we
+wished to set sail, it was with great difficulty that we could make the
+chiefs leave the boat. At length we got rid of all except the great
+chief; when just as we were setting out, several of the chief's soldiers
+sat on the rope which held the boat to the shore. Irritated at this we
+got every thing ready to fire on them if they persisted, but the great
+chief said that these were his soldiers and only wanted some tobacco. We
+had already refused a flag and some tobacco to the second chief, who had
+demanded it with great importunity; but willing to leave them without
+going to extremities, we threw him a carrot of tobacco, saying to him,
+"You have told us that you were a great man, and have influence; now
+show your influence, by taking the rope from those men, and we will then
+go without any further trouble." This appeal to his pride had the
+desired effect; he went out of the boat, gave the soldiers the tobacco,
+and pulling the rope out of their hands delivered it on board, and we
+then set sail under a breeze from the S.E. After sailing about two miles
+we observed the third chief beckoning to us: we took him on board, and
+he informed us that the rope had been held by the order of the second
+chief, who was a double-faced man. A little farther on we were joined by
+the son of the chief, who came on board to see his father. On his return
+we sent a speech to the nation, explaining what we had done, and
+advising them to peace; but if they persisted in their attempts to stop
+us, we were willing and able to defend ourselves. After making six
+miles, during which we passed a willow island on the south and one
+sandbar, we encamped on another in the middle of the river. The country
+on the south-side was a low prairie, that on the north highland.
+
+September 29. We set out early, but were again impeded by sandbars,
+which made the river shallow; the weather was however fair; the land on
+the north side low and covered with timber contrasted with the bluffs to
+the south. At nine o'clock we saw the second chief and two women and
+three men on shore, who wished us to take two women offered by the
+second chief to make friends, which was refused; he then requested us to
+take them to the other band of their nation, who were on the river not
+far from us: this we declined; but in spite of our wishes they followed
+us along shore. The chief asked us to give them some tobacco; this we
+did, and gave more as a present for that part of the nation which we did
+not see. At seven and a half miles we came to a small creek on the
+southern side, where we saw great numbers of elk, and which we called
+Notimber creek from its bare appearance. Above the mouth of this stream,
+a Ricara band of Pawnees had a village five years ago: but there are no
+remains of it except the mound which encircled the town. Here the second
+chief went on shore. We then proceeded, and at the distance of eleven
+miles encamped on the lower part of a willow island, in the middle of
+the river, being obliged to substitute large stones in the place of the
+anchor which we lost.
+
+September 30. The wind was this morning very high from the southeast, so
+that we were obliged to proceed under a double-reefed mainsail, through
+the rain. The country presented a large low prairie covered with timber
+on the north side; on the south, we first had high barren hills, but
+after some miles it became of the same character as that on the opposite
+side. We had not gone far when an Indian ran after us, and begged to be
+carried on board as far as the Ricaras, which we refused: soon after, we
+discovered on the hills at a distance, a great number of Indians, who
+came towards the river and encamped ahead of us. We stopped at a
+sandbar, at about eleven miles, and after breakfasting proceeded on a
+short distance to their camp, which consisted of about four hundred
+souls. We anchored one hundred yards from the shore, and discovering
+that they were Tetons belonging to the band which we had just left: we
+told them that we took them by the hand, and would make each chief a
+present of tobacco; that we had been badly treated by some of their
+band, and that having waited for them two days below, we could not stop
+here, but referred them to Mr. Durion for our talk and an explanation of
+our views: they then apologized for what had past, assured us that they
+were friendly, and very desirous that we should land and eat with them:
+this we refused, but sent the periogue on shore with the tobacco, which
+was delivered to one of the soldiers of the chief, whom we had on board.
+Several of them now ran along the shore after us, but the chief threw
+them a twist of tobacco, and told them to go back and open their ears to
+our counsels; on which they immediately returned to their lodges. We
+then proceeded past a continuation of the low prairie on the north,
+where we had large quantities of grapes, and on the south saw a small
+creek and an island. Six miles above this, two Indians came to the bank,
+looked at us about half an hour, and then went without speaking over the
+hills to the southwest. After some time, the wind rose still higher, and
+the boat struck a log, turned, and was very near taking in water. The
+chief became so much terrified at the danger, that he hid himself in the
+boat, and as soon as we landed got his gun and told us that he wanted to
+return, that we would now see no more Tetons, and that we might proceed
+unmolested: we repeated the advice we had already given, presented him
+with a blanket, a knife, some tobacco, and after smoking with him he set
+out. We then continued to a sandbar on the north side, where we
+encamped, having come twenty and a half miles. In the course of the day
+we saw a number of sandbars which impede the navigation. The only
+animal which we observed was the white gull, then in great abundance.
+
+October 1st, 1804. The weather was very cold and the wind high from the
+southeast during the night, and continued so this morning. At three
+miles distance, we had passed a large island in the middle of the river,
+opposite to the lower end of which the Ricaras once had a village on the
+south side of the river: there are, however, no remnants of it now,
+except a circular wall three or four feet in height, which encompassed
+the town. Two miles beyond this island is a river coming in from the
+southwest, about four hundred yards wide; the current gentle, and
+discharging not much water, and very little sand: it takes its rise in
+the second range of the Cote Noire or Black mountains, and its general
+course is nearly east; this river has been occasionally called Dog
+river, under a mistaken opinion that its French name was Chien, but its
+true appellation is Chayenne, and it derives this title from the
+Chayenne Indians: their history is the short and melancholy relation of
+the calamities of almost all the Indians. They were a numerous people
+and lived on the Chayenne, a branch of the Red river of Lake Winnipeg.
+The invasion of the Sioux drove them westward; in their progress they
+halted on the southern side of the Missouri below the Warreconne, where
+their ancient fortifications still exist; but the same impulse again
+drove them to the heads of the Chayenne, where they now rove, and
+occasionally visit the Ricaras. They are now reduced, but still number
+three hundred men.
+
+Although the river did not seem to throw out much sand, yet near and
+above its mouth we find a great many sandbars difficult to pass. On both
+sides of the Missouri, near the Chayenne, are rich thinly timbered
+lowlands, behind which are bare hills. As we proceeded, we found that
+the sandbars made the river so shallow, and the wind was so high, that
+we could scarcely find the channel, and at one place were forced to drag
+the boat over a sandbar, the Missouri being very wide and falling a
+little. At seven and a half miles we came to at a point, and remained
+three hours, during which time the wind abated: we then passed within
+four miles two creeks on the south, one of which we called Centinel
+creek, and the other Lookout creek. This part of the river has but
+little timber; the hills are not so high as we have hitherto seen, and
+the number of sandbars extends the river to more than a mile in breadth.
+We continued about four and a half miles further, to a sandbar in the
+middle of the river, where we spent the night, our progress being
+sixteen miles. On the opposite shore, we saw a house among the willows
+and a boy to whom we called, and brought him on board. He proved to be a
+young Frenchman in the employ of a Mr. Valle a trader, who is now here
+pursuing his commerce with the Sioux.
+
+Tuesday, October 2. There had been a violent wind from S.E. during the
+night, which having moderated we set sail with Mr. Valle, who visited us
+this morning and accompanied us for two miles. He is one of three French
+traders who have halted here, expecting the Sioux who are coming down
+from the Ricaras, where they now are, for the purposes of traffic. Mr.
+Valle tells us that he passed the last winter three hundred leagues up
+the Chayenne under the Black mountains. That river he represents as very
+rapid, liable to sudden swells, the bed and shores formed of course
+gravel, and difficult of ascent even for canoes. One hundred leagues
+from its mouth it divides into two branches, one coming from the south,
+the other at forty leagues from the junction enters the Black mountains.
+The land which it waters from the Missouri to the Black mountains,
+resembles the country on the Missouri, except that the former has even
+less timber, and of that the greater proportion is cedar. The Chayennes
+reside chiefly on the heads of the river, and steal horses from the
+Spanish settlement, a plundering excursion which they perform in a
+month's time. The Black mountains he observes are very high, covered
+with great quantities of pine, and in some parts the snow remains during
+the summer. There are also great quantities of goats, white bear,
+prairie cocks, and a species of animal which from his description must
+resemble a small elk, with large circular horns.
+
+At two and a half miles we had passed a willow island on the south, on
+the north side of the river were dark bluffs, and on the south low rich
+prairies. We took a meridian altitude on our arrival at the upper end of
+the isthmus of the bend, which we called the Lookout bend, and found the
+latitude to be 44° 19' 36". This bend is nearly twenty miles round, and
+not more than two miles across.
+
+In the afternoon we heard a shot fired, and not long after observed some
+Indians on a hill: one of them came to the shore and wished us to land,
+as there were twenty lodges of Yanktons or Boisbrule there; we declined
+doing so, telling him that we had already seen his chiefs, and that they
+might learn from Mr. Durion the nature of the talk we had delivered to
+them. At nine miles we came to the lower point of a long island on the
+north, the banks of the south side of the river being high, those of the
+north forming a low rich prairie. We coasted along this island, which we
+called Caution island, and after passing a small creek on the south
+encamped on a sandbar in the middle of the river, having made twelve
+miles. The wind changed to the northwest, and became very high and cold.
+The current of the river is less rapid, and the water though of the same
+colour contains less sediment than below the Chayenne, but its width
+continues the same. We were not able to hunt to-day; for as there are so
+many Indians in the neighbourhood, we were in constant expectation of
+being attacked, and were therefore forced to keep the party together and
+be on our guard.
+
+Wednesday, October 3. The wind continued so high from the northwest,
+that we could not set out till after seven: we then proceeded till
+twelve o'clock, and landed on a bar towards the south, where we
+examined the periogues, and the forecastle of the boat, and found that
+the mice had cut several bags of corn, and spoiled some of our clothes:
+about one o'clock an Indian came running to the shore with a turkey on
+his back: several others soon joined him, but we had no intercourse with
+them. We then went on for three miles, but the ascent soon became so
+obstructed by sandbars and shoal water, that after attempting in vain
+several channels, we determined to rest for the night under some high
+bluffs on the south, and send out to examine the best channel. We had
+made eight miles along high bluffs on each side. The birds we saw were
+the white gulls and the brant which were flying to the southward in
+large flocks.
+
+Thursday, 4th. On examination we found that there was no outlet
+practicable for us in this channel, and that we must retread our steps.
+We therefore returned three miles, and attempted another channel in
+which we were more fortunate. The Indians were in small numbers on the
+shore, and seemed willing had they been more numerous to molest us. They
+called to desire that we would land, and one of them gave three yells
+and fired a ball ahead of the boat: we however took no notice of it, but
+landed on the south to breakfast. One of these Indians swam across and
+begged for some powder, we gave him a piece of tobacco only. At eight
+and a half miles we had passed an island in the middle of the river,
+which we called Goodhope island. At one and a half mile we reached a
+creek on the south side about twelve yards wide, to which we gave the
+name of Teal creek. A little above this is an island on the north side
+of the current, about one and a half mile in length and three quarters
+of a mile in breadth. In the centre of this island is an old village of
+the Ricaras, called Lahoocat; it was surrounded by a circular wall,
+containing seventeen lodges. The Ricaras are known to have lived therein
+1797, and the village seems to have been deserted about five years
+since; it does not contain much timber. We encamped on a sandbar making
+out from the upper end of this island; our journey to-day being twelve
+miles.
+
+Friday, October 5. The weather was very cold: yesterday evening and this
+morning there was a white frost. We sailed along the highlands on the
+north side, passing a small creek on the south, between three and four
+miles. At seven o'clock we heard some yells and saw three Indians of the
+Teton band, who asked us to come on shore and begged for some tobacco,
+to all which we gave the same answer as hitherto. At eight miles we
+reached a small creek on the north. At fourteen we passed an island on
+the south, covered with wild rye, and at the head a large creek comes in
+from the south, which we named Whitebrant creek, from seeing several
+white brants among flocks of dark-coloured ones. At the distance of
+twenty miles we came to on a sandbar towards the north side of the
+river, with a willow island opposite; the hills or bluffs come to the
+banks of the river on both sides, but are not so high as they are below:
+the river itself however continues of the same width, and the sandbars
+are quite as numerous. The soil of the banks is dark coloured, and many
+of the bluffs have the appearance of being on fire. Our game this day
+was a deer, a prairie wolf, and some goats out of a flock that was
+swimming across the river.
+
+Saturday, October 6. The morning was still cold, the wind being from the
+north. At eight miles we came to a willow island on the north, opposite
+a point of timber, where there are many large stones near the middle of
+the river, which seem to have been washed from the hills and high plains
+on both sides, or driven from a distance down the stream. At twelve
+miles we halted for dinner at a village which we suppose to have
+belonged to the Ricaras; it is situated in a low plain on the river, and
+consists of about eighty lodges, of an octagon form, neatly covered with
+earth, placed as close to each other as possible, and picketed round.
+The skin canoes, mats, buckets, and articles of furniture found in the
+lodges, induce us to suppose that it had been left in the spring. We
+found three different sorts of squashes growing in the village; we also
+killed an elk near it, and saw two wolves. On leaving the village the
+river became shallow, and after searching a long time for the main
+channel, which was concealed among sandbars, we at last dragged the boat
+over one of them rather than go back three miles for the deepest
+channel. At fourteen and a half miles we stopped for the night on a
+sandbar, opposite a creek on the north, called Otter creek, twenty-two
+yards in width, and containing more water than is common for creeks of
+that size. The sides of the river during the day are variegated with
+high bluffs and low timbered grounds on the banks: the river is very
+much obstructed by sandbars. We saw geese, swan, brants and ducks of
+different kinds on the sandbars, and on shore numbers of the prairie
+hen; the magpie too is very common, but the gulls and plover, which we
+saw in such numbers below, are now quite rare.
+
+Sunday, October 7. There was frost again last evening, and this morning
+was cloudy and attended with rain. At two miles we came to the mouth of
+a river; called by the Ricaras, Sawawkawna, or Pork river; the party who
+examined it for about three miles up, say that its current is gentle,
+and that it does not seem to throw out much sand. Its sources are in the
+first range of the Black mountains, and though it has now only water of
+twenty yards width, yet when full it occupies ninety. Just below the
+mouth is another village or wintering camp of the Ricaras, composed of
+about sixty lodges, built in the same form as those passed yesterday,
+with willow and straw mats, baskets and buffaloe-skin canoes remaining
+entire in the camp. We proceeded under a gentle breeze from the
+southwest: at ten o'clock we saw two Indians on the north side, who told
+us they were a part of the lodge of Tartongawaka, or Buffaloe Medicine,
+the Teton chief whom we had seen on the twenty-fifth, that they were on
+the way to the Ricaras, and begged us for something to eat, which we of
+course gave them. At seven and a half miles is a willow island on the
+north, and another on the same side five miles beyond it, in the middle
+of the river between highlands on both sides. At eighteen and a half
+miles is an island called Grouse island, on which are the walls of an
+old village; the island has no timber, but is covered with grass and
+wild rye, and owes its name to the number of grouse that frequent it. We
+then went on till our journey for the day was twenty-two miles: the
+country presented the same appearance as usual. In the low timbered
+ground near the mouth of the Sawawkawna, we saw the tracks of large
+white bear, and on Grouse island killed a female blaireau, and a deer of
+the black-tailed species, the largest we have ever seen.
+
+Monday, October 8. We proceeded early with a cool northwest wind, and at
+two and a half miles above Grouse island, reached the mouth of a creek
+on the south, then a small willow island, which divides the current
+equally; and at four and a half miles came to a river on the southern
+side where we halted. This river, which our meridian altitude fixes at
+45° 39' 5" north latitude, is called by the Ricaras Wetawhoo; it rises
+in the Black mountains, and its bed which flows at the mouth over a low
+soft slate stone, is one hundred and twenty yards wide, but the water is
+now confined within twenty yards, and is not very rapid, discharging mud
+with a small proportion of sand: here as in every bend of the river, we
+again observe the red berries resembling currants, which we mentioned
+before. Two miles above the Wetawhoo, and on the same side, is a small
+river called Maropa by the Indians; it is twenty yards in width, but so
+dammed up by mud that the stream creeps through a channel of not more
+than an inch in diameter, and discharges no sand. One mile further we
+reached an island close to the southern shore, from which it is
+separated by a deep channel of sixty yards. About half way a number of
+Ricara Indians came out to see us. We stopped and took a Frenchman on
+board, who accompanied us past the island to our camp on the north side
+of the river, which is at the distance of twelve miles from that of
+yesterday. Captain Lewis then returned with four of the party to see the
+village; it is situated in the centre of the island, near the southern
+shore, under the foot of some high, bald, uneven hills, and contains
+about sixty lodges. The island itself is three miles long, and covered
+with fields in which the Indians raise corn, beans, and potatoes.
+Several Frenchmen living among these Indians as interpreters, or
+traders, came back with captain Lewis, and particularly a Mr.
+Gravelines, a man who has acquired the language. On setting out we had a
+low prairie covered with timber on the north, and on the south
+highlands, but at the mouth of the Wetawhoo the southern country
+changes, and a low timbered plain extends along the south, while the
+north has a ridge of barren hills during the rest of the day's course.
+
+Tuesday, 9th. The wind was so cold and high last night and during all
+the day, that we could not assemble the Indians in council; but some of
+the party went to the village. We received the visits of the three
+principal chiefs with many others, to whom we gave some tobacco, and
+told them that we would speak to them to-morrow. The names of these
+chiefs were first, Kakawissassa or Lighting Crow; second chief Pocasse
+or Hay; third chief Piaheto or Eagle's Feather. Notwithstanding the high
+waves, two or three squaws rowed to us in little canoes made of a single
+buffaloe skin, stretched over a frame of boughs interwoven like a
+basket, and with the most perfect composure. The object which appeared
+to astonish the Indians most, was captain Clark's servant York, a
+remarkable stout strong negro. They had never seen a being of that
+colour, and therefore flocked round him to examine the extraordinary
+monster. By way of amusement he told them that he had once been a wild
+animal, and caught and tamed by his master, and to convince them, showed
+them feats of strength which added to his looks made him more terrible
+than we wished him to be. Opposite our camp is a small creek on the
+south, which we distinguished by the name of the chief Kakawissassa.
+
+Wednesday, 10th. The weather was this day fine, and as we were desirous
+of assembling the whole nation at once, we despatched Mr. Gravelines,
+who with Mr. Tabeau another French trader had breakfeasted with us, to
+invite the chiefs of the two upper villages to a conference. They all
+assembled at one o'clock, and after the usual ceremonies we addressed
+them in the same way in which we had already spoken to the Ottoes and
+Sioux: we then made or acknowledged three chiefs, one for each of the
+three villages; giving to each a flag, a medal, a red coat, a cocked hat
+and feather, also some goods, paint and tobacco, which they divided
+among themselves: after this the airgun was exhibited, very much to
+their astonishment, nor were they less surprised at the colour and
+manner of York. On our side we were equally gratified at discovering
+that these Ricaras made use of no spirituous liquors of any kind, the
+example of the traders who bring it to them so far from tempting having
+in fact disgusted them. Supposing that it was as agreeable to them as to
+the other Indians, we had at first offered them whiskey; but they
+refused it with this sensible remark, that they were surprised that
+their father should present to them a liquor which would make them
+fools. On another occasion they observed to Mr. Tabeau, that no man
+could be their friend who tried to lead them into such follies. The
+council being over they retired to consult on their answer, and the next
+morning,
+
+Thursday, 11th, at eleven o'clock we again met in council at our camp.
+The grand chief made a short speech of thanks for the advice we had
+given, and promised to follow it; adding that the door was now open and
+no one dare shut it, and that we might depart whenever we pleased,
+alluding to the treatment we had received from the Sioux: they also
+brought us some corn, beans, and dried squashes, and in return we gave
+them a steel mill with which they were much pleased. At one o'clock we
+left our camp with the grand chief and his nephew on board, and at about
+two miles anchored below a creek on the south, separating the second and
+third village of the Ricaras, which are about half a mile distant from
+each other. We visited both the villages, and sat conversing with the
+chiefs for some time, during which they presented us with a bread made
+of corn and beans, also corn and beans boiled, and a large rich bean
+which they take from the mice of the prairie, who discover and collect
+it. These two villages are placed near each other in a high smooth
+prairie; a fine situation, except that having no wood the inhabitants
+are obliged to go for it across the river to a timbered lowland opposite
+to them. We told them that we would speak to them in the morning at
+their villages separately.
+
+Thursday, 12th. Accordingly after breakfast we went on shore to the
+house of the chief of the second village named Lassel, where we found
+his chiefs and warriors. They made us a present of about seven bushels
+of corn, a pair of leggings, a twist of their tobacco, and the seeds of
+two different species of tobacco. The chief then delivered a speech
+expressive of his gratitude for the presents and the good counsels which
+we had given him; his intention of visiting his great father but for
+fear of the Sioux; and requested us to take one of the Ricara chiefs up
+to the Mandans and negociate a peace between the two nations. To this we
+replied in a suitable way, and then repaired to the third village. Here
+we were addressed by the chief in nearly the same terms as before, and
+entertained with a present of ten bushels of corn, some beans, dried
+pumpkins, and squashes. After we had answered and explained the
+magnitude and power of the United States, the three chiefs came with us
+to the boat. We gave them some sugar, a little salt, and a sunglass. Two
+of them then left us, and the chief of the third, by name Ahketahnasha
+or Chief of the Town, accompanied us to the Mandans. At two o'clock we
+left the Indians, who crowded to the shore to take leave of us, and
+after making seven and a half miles landed on the north side, and had a
+clear, cool, pleasant evening.
+
+The three villages which we have just left, are the residence of a
+nation called the Ricaras. They were originally colonies of Pawnees, who
+established themselves on the Missouri, below the Chayenne, where the
+traders still remember that twenty years ago they occupied a number of
+villages. From that situation a part of the Ricaras emigrated to the
+neighbourhood of the Mandans, with whom they were then in alliance. The
+rest of the nation continued near the Chayenne till the year 1797, in
+the course of which, distressed by their wars with the Sioux, they
+joined their countrymen near the Mandans. Soon after a new war arose
+between the Ricaras and the Mandans, in consequence of which the former
+came down the river to their present position. In this migration those
+who had first gone to the Mandans kept together, and now live in the two
+lower villages, which may thence be considered as the Ricaras proper.
+The third village was composed of such remnants of the villages as had
+survived the wars, and as these were nine in number a difference of
+pronunciation and some difference of language may be observed between
+them and the Ricaras proper, who do not understand all the words of
+these wanderers. The villages are within the distance of four miles of
+each other, the two lower ones consisting of between one hundred and
+fifty and two hundred men each, the third of three hundred. The Ricaras
+are tall and well proportioned, the women handsome and lively, and as
+among other savages to them falls all the drudgery of the field and the
+labours of procuring subsistence, except that of hunting: both sexes are
+poor, but kind and generous, and although they receive with thankfulness
+what is given to them, do not beg as the Sioux did, though this praise
+should be qualified by mentioning that an axe was stolen last night
+from our cooks. The dress of the men is a simple pair of moccasins,
+legings, and a cloth round the middle, over which a buffaloe robe is
+occasionally thrown, with their hair, arms and ears decorated with
+different ornaments. The women wear moccasins, legings, a long shirt
+made of goats' skins, generally white and fringed, which is tied round
+the waist; to those they add, like the men, a buffaloe robe without the
+hair, in summer. These women are handsomer than the Sioux; both of them
+are however, disposed to be amorous, and our men found no difficulty in
+procuring companions for the night by means of the interpreters. These
+interviews were chiefly clandestine, and were of course to be kept a
+secret from the husband or relations. The point of honour indeed, is
+completely reversed among the Ricaras; that the wife or the sister
+should submit to a stranger's embraces without the consent of her
+husband or brother, is a cause of great disgrace and offence, especially
+as for many purposes of civility or gratitude the husband and brother
+will themselves present to a stranger these females, and be gratified by
+attentions to them. The Sioux had offered us squaws, but while we
+remained there having declined, they followed us with offers of females
+for two days. The Ricaras had been equally accommodating; we had equally
+withstood their temptation; but such was their desire to oblige that two
+very handsome young squaws were sent on board this evening, and
+persecuted us with civilities. The black man York participated largely
+in these favours; for instead of inspiring any prejudice, his colour
+seemed to procure him additional advantages from the Indians, who
+desired to preserve among them some memorial of this wonderful stranger.
+Among other instances of attention, a Ricara invited him into his house
+and presenting his wife to him, retired to the outside of the door:
+while there one of York's comrades who was looking for him came to the
+door, but the gallant husband would permit no interruption before a
+reasonable time had elapsed.
+
+The Ricara lodges are in a circular or octagonal form, and generally
+about thirty or forty feet in diameter: they are made by placing forked
+posts about six feet high round the circumference of the circle; these
+are joined by poles from one fork to another, which are supported also
+by other forked poles slanting from the ground: in the centre of the
+lodge are placed four higher forks, about fifteen feet in length,
+connected together by beams; from these to the lower poles the rafters
+of the roof are extended so as to leave a vacancy in the middle for the
+smoke: the frame of the building is then covered with willow branches,
+with which is interwoven grass, and over this mud or clay: the aperture
+for the door is about four feet wide, and before it is a sort of entry
+about ten feet from the lodge. They are very warm and compact.
+
+They cultivate maize or Indian corn, beans, pumpkins, watermelons,
+squashes, and a species of tobacco peculiar to themselves.
+
+Their commerce is chiefly with the traders who supply them with goods in
+return for peltries, which they procure not only by their own hunting,
+but in exchange for corn from their less civilized neighbours. The
+object chiefly in demand seemed to be red paint, but they would give any
+thing they had to spare for the most trifling article. One of the men
+to-day gave an Indian a hook made out of a pin, and he gave him in
+return a pair of moccasins.
+
+They express a disposition to keep at peace with all nations, but they
+are well armed with fusils, and being much under the influence of the
+Sioux, who exchanged the goods which they get from the British for
+Ricara corn, their minds are sometimes poisoned and they cannot be
+always depended on. At the present moment they are at war with the
+Mandans. We are informed by Mr. Gravelines, who had passed through that
+country, that the Yankton or Jacques river rises about forty miles to
+the east or northeast of this place, the Chayenne branch of the Red
+river about twenty miles further, passing the Sioux, and the St. Peter's
+about eighty.
+
+Saturday, 13th. In the morning our visitors left us, except the brother
+of the chief who accompanies us and one of the squaws. We passed at an
+early hour a camp of Sioux on the north bank, who merely looked at us
+without saying a word, and from the character of the tribe we did not
+solicit a conversation. At ten and a half miles we reached the mouth of
+a creek on the north, which takes its rise from some ponds a short
+distance to the northeast: to this stream we gave the name of Stoneidol
+creek, for after passing a willow and sand island just above its mouth,
+we discovered that a few miles back from the Missouri there are two
+stones resembling human figures, and a third like a dog; all which are
+objects of great veneration among the Ricaras. Their history would adorn
+the metamorphoses of Ovid. A young man was deeply enamoured with a girl
+whose parents refused their consent to the marriage. The youth went out
+into the fields to mourn his misfortunes; a sympathy of feeling led the
+lady to the same spot, and the faithful dog would not cease to follow
+his master. After wandering together and having nothing but grapes to
+subsist on, they were at last converted into stone, which beginning at
+the feet gradually invaded the nobler parts leaving nothing unchanged
+but a bunch of grapes which the female holds in her hands to this day.
+Whenever the Ricaras pass these sacred stones, they stop to make some
+offering of dress to propitiate these deities. Such is the account given
+by the Ricara chief which we had no mode of examining, except that we
+found one part of the story very agreeably confirmed; for on the river
+near where the event is said to have occurred, we found a greater
+abundance of fine grapes than we had yet seen. Above this is a small
+creek four and a half miles from Stoneidol creek, which is fifteen yards
+wide, comes in from the south, and received from us the name of Pocasse
+or Hay creek, in honour of the chief of the second village. Above the
+Ricara island, the Missouri becomes narrow and deeper, the sandbars
+being generally confined to the points; the current too is much more
+gentle; the timber on the lowlands is also in much greater quantities,
+though the high grounds are still naked. We proceeded on under a fine
+breeze from the southeast, and after making eighteen miles encamped on
+the north near a timbered low plain, after which we had some rain and
+the evening was cold. The hunters killed one deer only.
+
+Sunday, 14th. We set out in the rain which continued during the day. At
+five miles we came to a creek on the south, about fifteen yards wide,
+and named by us Piaheto or Eagle's Feather, in honour of the third chief
+of the Ricaras. After dinner we stopped on a sandbar, and executed the
+sentence of a court martial which inflicted corporal punishment on one
+of the soldiers. This operation affected the Indian chief very sensibly,
+for he cried aloud during the punishment: we explained the offence and
+the reasons of it. He acknowledged that examples were necessary, and
+that he himself had given them by punishing with death; but his nation
+never whipped even children from their birth. After this we continued
+with the wind from the northeast, and at the distance of twelve miles,
+encamped in a cove of the southern bank. Immediately opposite our camp
+on the north side are the ruins of an ancient fortification, the greater
+part of which is washed into the river: nor could we distinguish more
+than that the walls were eight or ten feet high. The evening is wet and
+disagreeable, and the river which is somewhat wider than yesterday,
+continues to have an unusual quantity of timber. The country was level
+on both sides in the morning, but afterwards we passed some black bluffs
+on the south.
+
+Monday, 15th. We stopped at three miles on the north a little above a
+camp of Ricaras who are hunting, where we were visited by about thirty
+Indians. They came over in their skin canoes, bringing us meat, for
+which we returned them beads and fishhooks. About a mile higher we found
+another encampment of Ricaras on the south, consisting of eight lodges:
+here we again ate and exchanged a few presents. As we went we discerned
+numbers of other Indians on both sides of the river; and at about nine
+miles we came to a creek on the south, where we saw many high hills
+resembling a house with a slanting roof; and a little below the creek an
+old village of the Sharha or Chayenne Indians. The morning had been
+cloudy, but the evening became pleasant, the wind from the northeast,
+and at sunset we halted, after coming ten miles over several sandbars
+and points, above a camp of ten Ricara lodges on the north side. We
+visited their camp, and smoked and eat with several of them; they all
+appeared kind and pleased with our attentions, and the fair sex received
+our men with more than hospitality. York was here again an object of
+astonishment; the children would follow him constantly, and if he
+chanced to turn towards them, run with great terror. The country of
+to-day is generally low and covered with timber on both sides, though in
+the morning we passed some barren hills on the south.
+
+Tuesday, 16th. At this camp the squaw who accompanied the chief left us;
+two others were very anxious to go on with us. Just above our camp we
+passed a circular work or fort where the Sharha or Chayennes formerly
+lived: and a short distance beyond, a creek which we called Chayenne
+creek. At two miles is a willow island with a large sandbar on both
+sides above it, and a creek, both on the south, which we called Sohaweh,
+the Ricara name for girl; and two miles above a second creek, to which
+we gave the name of Chapawt, which means woman in the same language.
+Three miles further is an island situated in a bend to the north, about
+a mile and a half long, and covered with cottonwood. At the lower end of
+this island comes in a small creek from the north, called
+Keetooshsahawna or Place of Beaver. At the upper extremity of the island
+a river empties itself from the north: it is called Warreconne, or Elk
+Shed their Horns, and is about thirty-five yards wide: the island itself
+is named Carp island by Evans, a former traveller. As we proceeded there
+were great numbers of goats on the banks of the river, and we soon after
+saw large flocks of them in the water: they had been gradually driven
+into the river by the Indians who now lined the shore so as to prevent
+their escape, and were firing on them, while sometimes boys went into
+the river and killed them with sticks: they seemed to be very
+successful, for we counted fifty-eight which they had killed. We
+ourselves killed some, and then passing the lodges to which these
+Indians belonged, encamped at the distance of half a mile on the south,
+having made fourteen and a half miles. We were soon visited by numbers
+of these Ricaras, who crossed the river hallooing and singing: two of
+them then returned for some goats' flesh and buffaloe meat dried and
+fresh, with which they made a feast that lasted till late at night, and
+caused much music and merriment.
+
+Wednesday 17th. The weather was pleasant: we passed a low ground covered
+with small timber on the south, and barren hills on the north which come
+close to the river; the wind from the northwest then become so strong
+that we could not move after ten o'clock, until late in the afternoon,
+when we were forced to use the towline, and we therefore made only six
+miles. We all went out hunting and examining the country. The goats, of
+which we see large flocks coming to the north bank of the river, spend
+the summer, says Mr. Gravelines, in the plains east of the Missouri, and
+at the present season are returning to the Black mountains, where they
+subsist on leaves and shrubbery during the winter, and resume their
+migrations in the spring. We also saw buffaloe, elk, and deer, and a
+number of snakes; a beaver house too was seen, and we caught a
+whippoorwill of a small and uncommon kind: the leaves are fast falling;
+the river wider than usual and full of sandbars: and on the sides of the
+hills are large stones, and some rock of a brownish colour in the
+southern bend below us. Our latitude by observation was 46° 23' 57".
+
+Thursday 18. After three miles we reached the mouth of Le Boulet or
+Cannonball river: this stream rises in the Black mountains, and falls
+into the Missouri on the south; its channel is about one hundred and
+forty yards wide, though the water is now confined within forty, and its
+name is derived from the numbers of perfectly round large stones on the
+shore and in the bluffs just above. We here met with two Frenchmen in
+the employ of Mr. Gravelines, who had been robbed by the Mandans of
+their traps, furs, and other articles, and were descending the river in
+a periogue, but they turned back with us in expectation of obtaining
+redress through our means. At eight miles is a creek on the north, about
+twenty-eight yards wide, rising in the northeast, and called Chewah or
+Fish river; one mile above this is another creek on the south: we
+encamped on a sandbar to the south, at the distance of thirteen miles,
+all of which we had made with oars and poles. Great numbers of goats are
+crossing the river and directing their course to the westward; we also
+saw a herd of buffaloe and of elk; a pelican too was killed, and six
+fallow deer, having found, as the Ricaras informed us, that there are
+none of the black-tail species as high up as this place. The country is
+in general level and fine, with broken short high grounds, low timbered
+mounds on the river, and a rugged range of hills at a distance.
+
+Friday 19. We set sail with a fine morning, and a southeast wind, and at
+two and a half miles passed a creek on the north side: at eleven and a
+half miles we came to a lake or large pond on the same side, in which
+were some swans. On both banks of the Missouri are low grounds which
+have much more timber than lower down the river: the hills are at one or
+two miles distance from the banks, and the streams which rise in them
+are brackish, and the mineral salts appear on the sides of the hills
+and edges of the runs. In walking along the shore we counted fifty-two
+herds of buffaloe, and three of elk, at a single view. Besides these we
+also observed elk, deer, pelicans, and wolves. After seventeen and a
+half miles we encamped on the north, opposite to the uppermost of a
+number of round hills, forming a cone at the top, one being about
+ninety, another sixty feet in height, and some of less elevation. Our
+chief tells us that the calumet bird lives in the holes formed by the
+filtration of the water from the top of these hills through the sides.
+Near to one of these moles, on a point of a hill ninety feet above the
+plain, are the remains of an old village which is high, strong, and has
+been fortified; this our chief tells us is the remains of one of the
+Mandan villages, and are the first ruins which we have seen of that
+nation in ascending the Missouri: opposite to our camp is a deep bend to
+the south, at the extremity of which is a pond.
+
+Saturday 30. We proceeded early with a southeast wind, which continued
+high all day, and came to a creek on the north at two miles distance,
+twenty yards wide. At eight miles we reached the lower point of an
+island in the middle of the river, though there is no current on the
+south. This island is covered with willows and extends about two miles,
+there being a small creek coming in from the south at its lower
+extremity. After making twelve miles we encamped on the south, at the
+upper part of a bluff containing stone-coal of an inferior quality;
+immediately below this bluff and on the declivity of a hill, are the
+remains of a village covering six or eight acres, formerly occupied by
+the Mandans, who, says our Ricara chief, once lived in a number of
+villages on each side of the river, till the Sioux forced them forty
+miles higher; whence after a few years residence, they moved to their
+present position. The country through, which we passed has wider bottoms
+and more timber than those we have been accustomed to see, the hills
+rising at a distance and by gradual ascents. We have seen great numbers
+of elk, deer, goats, and buffaloe, and the usual attendants of these
+last, the wolves, who follow their movements and feed upon those who die
+by accident, or who are too poor to keep pace with the herd; we also
+wounded a white bear, and saw some fresh tracks of those animals which
+are twice as large as the track of a man.
+
+Sunday 21. Last night the weather was cold, the wind high from the
+northeast, and the rain which fell froze on the ground. At daylight it
+began to snow, and continued till the afternoon, when it remained cloudy
+and the ground was covered with snow. We however, set out early, and
+just above our camp came to a creek on the south, called Chisshetaw,
+about thirty yards wide and with a considerable quantity of water. Our
+Ricara chief tells us, that at some distance up this river is situated a
+large rock which is held in great veneration, and visited by parties who
+go to consult it as to their own or their nations' destinies, all of
+which they discern in some sort of figures or paintings with which it is
+covered. About two miles off from the mouth of the river the party on
+shore saw another of the objects of Ricara superstition: it is a large
+oak tree, standing alone in the open prairie, and as it alone has
+withstood the fire which has consumed every thing around, the Indians
+naturally ascribe to it extraordinary powers. One of their ceremonies is
+to make a hole in the skin of their necks through which a string is
+passed and the other end tied to the body of the tree; and after
+remaining in this way for some time they think they become braver. At
+two miles a from our encampment we came to the ruins of a second Mandan
+village, which was in existence at the same time with that just
+mentioned. It is situated on the north at the foot of a hill in a
+beautiful and extensive plain, which is now covered with herds of
+buffaloe: nearly opposite are remains of a third village on the south of
+the Missouri; and there is another also about two miles further on the
+north, a little off the river. At the distance of seven miles we
+encamped on the south, and spent a cold night. We procured to-day a
+buffaloe and an otter only. The river is wide and the sandbars numerous,
+and a low island near our encampment.
+
+Monday 22. In the morning we passed an old Mandan village on the south,
+near our camp; at four miles another on the same side. About seven
+o'clock we came to at a camp of eleven Sioux of the Teton tribe, who are
+almost perfectly naked, having only a piece of skin or cloth round the
+middle, though we are suffering from the cold. From their appearance,
+which is warlike, and from their giving two different accounts of
+themselves, we believe that they are either going to or returning from
+the Mandans, to which nations the Sioux frequently make excursions to
+steal horses. As their conduct displeased as, we gave them nothing. At
+six we reached an island about one mile in length, at the head of which
+is a Mandan village on the north in ruins, and two miles beyond a bad
+sandbar. At eight miles are remains of another Mandan village on the
+south; and at twelve miles encamped on the south. The hunters brought in
+a buffaloe bull, and mentioned that of about three hundred which they
+had seen, there was not a single female. The beaver is here in plenty,
+and the two Frenchmen who are returning with us catch several every
+night.
+
+These villages which are nine in number are scattered along each side of
+the river within a space of twenty miles; almost all that remains of
+them is the wall which surrounded them, the fallen heaps of earth which
+covered the houses, and occasionally human skulls and the teeth and
+bones of men, and different animals, which are scattered on the surface
+of the ground.
+
+Tuesday 23. The weather was cloudy and we had some snow; we soon arrived
+at five lodges where the two Frenchmen had been robbed, but the Indians
+had left it lately as we found the fires still burning. The country
+consists as usual of timbered low grounds, with grapes, rushes, and
+great quantities of a small red acid fruit, known among the Indians by
+a name signifying rabbitberries, and called by the French graisse de
+buffle or buffaloe fat. The river too, is obstructed by many sandbars.
+At twelve miles we passed an old village on the north, which was the
+former residence of the Ahnahaways who now live between the Mandans and
+Minnetarees. After making thirteen miles we encamped on the south.
+
+Wednesday 24. The day was again dark and it snowed a little in the
+morning. At three miles we came to a point on the south, where the river
+by forcing a channel across a former bend has formed a large island on
+the north. On this island we found one of the grand chiefs of the
+Mandans, who with five lodges was on a hunting excursion. He met his
+enemy the Ricara chief, with great ceremony and apparent cordiality, and
+smoked with him. After visiting his lodges, the grand chief and his
+brother came on board our boat for a short time; we then proceeded and
+encamped on the north, at seven miles from our last night's station and
+below the old village of the Mandans and Ricaras. Here four Mandans came
+down from a camp above, and our Ricara chief returned with them to their
+camp, from which we auger favourably of their pacific views towards each
+other. The land is low and beautiful, and covered with oak and
+cottonwood, but has been too recently hunted to afford much game.
+
+25th. The morning was cold and the wind gentle from the southeast: at
+three miles we passed a handsome high prairie on the south, and on an
+eminence about forty feet above the water and extending back for several
+miles in a beautiful plain, was situated an old village of the Mandan
+nation which has been deserted for many years. A short distance above
+it, on the continuation of the same rising ground are two old villages
+of Ricaras, one on the top of the hill, the other in the level plain,
+which have been deserted only five years ago. Above these villages is an
+extensive low ground for several miles, in which are situated, at three
+or four miles from the Ricara villages, three old villages of Mandans
+near together. Here the Mandans lived when the Ricaras came to them for
+protection, and from this they moved to their present situation above.
+In the low ground the squaws raised their corn, and the timber, of which
+there was little near the villages, was supplied from the opposite side
+of the river, where it was and still is abundant.
+
+As we proceeded several parties of Mandans both on foot and horseback
+came along the river to view us, and were very desirous that we should
+land and talk to them: this we could not do on account of the sandbreaks
+on the shore, but we sent our Ricara chief to them in a periogue. The
+wind too having shifted to the southwest and being very high it required
+all our precautions on board, for the river was full of sandbars which
+made it very difficult to find the channel. We got aground several
+times, and passed a very bad point of rocks, after which we encamped on
+a sandpoint to the north, above a handsome plain covered with timber,
+and opposite to a high hill on the south side at the distance of eleven
+miles. Here we were joined by our Ricara chief, who brought an Indian to
+the camp where he remained all night.
+
+26th. We set out early with a southwest wind, and after putting the
+Ricara chief on shore to join the Mandans who were in great numbers
+along it, we proceeded to the camp of the grand chiefs four miles
+distant. Here we met a Mr. M'Cracken one of the northwest or Hudson Bay
+company, who arrived with another person about nine days ago to trade
+for horses and buffaloe robes. Two of the chiefs came on board with some
+of their household furniture, such as earthern pots and a little corn
+and went on with us; the rest of the Indians following on shore. At one
+mile beyond the camp we passed a small creek, and at three more a bluff
+of coal of an inferior quality on the south. After making eleven miles
+we reached an old field where the Mandans had cultivated grain last
+summer, and encamped for the night on the south side, about half a mile
+below the first village of the Mandans. In the morning we had a willow
+low ground on the south and highland on the north, which occasionally
+varied in the course of the day. There is but little wood on this part
+of the river, which is here subdivided into many channels and obstructed
+by sandbars. As soon as we arrived a crowd of men, women, and children
+came down to see us. Captain Lewis returned with the principal chiefs to
+the village, while the others remained with us during the evening; the
+object which seemed to surprise them most, was a cornmill fixed to the
+boat which we had occasion to use, and delighted them by the ease with
+which it reduced the grain to powder. Among others who visited us was
+the son of the grand chief of the Mandans, who had his two little
+fingers cut off at the second joints. On inquiring into this accident,
+we found that it was customary to express grief for the death of
+relations by some corporeal suffering, and that the usual mode was to
+lose two joints of the little fingers, or sometimes the other fingers.
+The wind blew very cold in the evening from the southwest. Two of the
+party are affected with rheumatic complaints.
+
+
+
+
+                                CHAPTER V.
+
+     Council held with the Mandans--A prairie on fire, and a singular
+     instance of preservation--Peace established between the Mandans and
+     Ricaras--The party encamp for the winter--Indian mode of catching
+     goats--Beautiful appearance of northern lights--Friendly character
+     of the Indians--Some account of the Mandans--The Ahnahaways and the
+     Minnetarees--The party acquire the confidence of the Mandans by
+     taking part in their controversy with the Sioux--Religion of the
+     Mandans, and their singular conception of the term medicine--Their
+     tradition--The sufferings of the party from the severity of the
+     season--Indian game of billiards described--Character of the
+     Missouri, of the surrounding country, and of the rivers, creeks,
+     islands, &c.
+
+
+Saturday, October 27. At an early hour we proceeded and anchored off the
+village. Captain Clarke went on shore, and after smoking a pipe with the
+chiefs, was desired to remain and eat with them. He declined on account
+of his being unwell; but his refusal gave great offence to the Indians,
+who considered it disrespectful not to eat when invited, till the cause
+was explained to their satisfaction. We sent them some tobacco, and then
+proceeded to the second village on the north, passing by a bank
+containing coal, and a second village, and encamped at four miles on the
+north, opposite to a village of Ahnahaways. We here met with a
+Frenchman, named Jesseaume, who lives among the Indians with his wife
+and children, and who we take as an interpreter. The Indians had flocked
+to the bank to see us as we passed, and they visited in great numbers
+the camp, where some of them remained all night. We sent in the evening
+three young Indians with a present of tobacco for the chiefs of the
+three upper villages, inviting them to come down in the morning to a
+council with us. Accordingly the next day,
+
+Sunday, October 28, we were joined by many of the Minnetarees and
+Ahnahaways from above, but the wind was so violent from the southwest
+that the chiefs of the lower villages could not come up, and the
+council was deferred till to-morrow. In the mean while we entertained
+our visitors by showing them what was new to them in the boat; all
+which, as well our black servant, they called Great Medicine, the
+meaning of which we afterwards learnt. We also consulted the grand chief
+of the Mandans, Black Cat, and Mr. Jesseaume, as to the names,
+characters, &c. of the chiefs with whom we are to hold the council. In
+the course of the day we received several presents from the women,
+consisting of corn, boiled hominy, and garden stuffs: in our turn we
+gratified the wife of the great chief with a gift of a glazed earthen
+jar. Our hunter brought us two beaver. In the afternoon we sent the
+Minnetaree chiefs to smoke for us with the great chief of the Mandans,
+and told them we would speak in the morning.
+
+Finding that we shall be obliged to pass the winter at this place, we
+went up the river about one and a half miles to-day, with a view of
+finding a convenient spot for a fort, but the timber was too scarce and
+small for our purposes.
+
+Monday, October 29. The morning was fine and we prepared our presents
+and speech for the council. After breakfast we were visited by an old
+chief of the Ahnahaways, who finding himself growing old and weak had
+transferred his power to his son, who is now at war against the
+Shoshonees. At ten o'clock the chiefs were all assembled under an awning
+of our sails, stretched so as to exclude the wind which had become high;
+that the impression might be the more forcible, the men were all
+paraded, and the council opened by a discharge from the swivel of the
+boat. We then delivered a speech, which like those we had already made
+intermingled advice with assurances of friendship and trade: while we
+were speaking the old Ahnahaway chief grew very restless, and observed
+that he could not wait long as his camp was exposed to the hostilities
+of the Shoshonees; he was instantly rebuked with great dignity by one of
+the chiefs for this violation of decorum at such a moment, and remained
+quiet during the rest of the council. Towards the end of our speech we
+introduced the subject of our Ricara chief, with whom we recommended a
+firm peace: to this they seemed well disposed, and all smoked with him
+very amicably. We all mentioned the goods which had been taken from the
+Frenchmen, and expressed a wish that they should he restored. This being
+over, we proceeded to distribute the presents with great ceremony: one
+chief of each town was acknowledged by a gift of a flag, a medal with
+the likeness of the president of the United States, a uniform coat, hat
+and feather: to the second chiefs we gave a medal representing some
+domestic animals, and a loom for weaving; to the third chiefs medals
+with the impressions of a farmer sowing grain. A variety of other
+presents were distributed, but none seemed to give them more
+satisfaction than an iron corn mill which we gave to the Mandans.
+
+The chiefs who were made to-day are: Shahaka or Big White, a first
+chief, and Kagohami or Little Raven, a second chief of the lower village
+of the Mandans, called Matootonha: the other chiefs of an inferior
+quality who were recommended were, 1. Ohheenaw, or Big Man, a Chayenne
+taken prisoner by the Mandans who adopted him, and he now enjoys great
+consideration among the tribe. 2. Shotahawrora, or Coal, of the second
+Mandan village which is called Rooptahee. We made Poscopsahe, or Black
+Cat, the first chief of the village, and the grand chief of the whole
+Mandan nation: his second chief is Kagonomokshe, or Raven man Chief;
+inferior chiefs of this village were, Tawnuheo, and Bellahsara, of which
+we did not learn the translation.
+
+In the third village which is called Mahawha, and where the Arwacahwas
+reside, we made one first chief, Tetuckopinreha, or White Buffaloe robe
+unfolded, and recognized two of an inferior order: Minnissurraree, or
+Neighing Horse, and Locongotiha, or Old woman at a distance.
+
+Of the fourth village where the Minnetarees live, and which is called
+Metaharta, we made a first chief, Ompsehara, or Black Moccasin: a second
+chief, Ohhaw, or Little Fox. Other distinguished chiefs of this village
+were, Mahnotah, or Big Thief, a man whom we did not see as he is out
+fighting, and was killed soon after; and Mahserassa, or Tail of the
+Calumet Bird. In the fifth village we made a first chief Eapanopa, or
+Red Shield; a second chief Wankerassa, or Two Tailed Calumet Bird, both
+young chiefs; other persons of distinction are, Shahakohopinnee, or
+Little Wolf's Medicine; Ahrattanamoekshe, or Wolfman chief, who is now
+at war, and is the son of the old chief we have mentioned, whose name is
+Caltahcota, or Cherry on a Bush.
+
+The presents intended for the grand chief of the Minnetarees, who was
+not at the council, were sent to him by the old chief Caltahcota; and we
+delivered to a young chief those intended for the chief of the lower
+village. The council was concluded by a shot from our swivel, and after
+firing the airgun for their amusement, they retired to deliberate on the
+answer which they are to give to-morrow.
+
+In the evening the prairie took fire, either by accident or design, and
+burned with great fury, the whole plain being enveloped in flames: so
+rapid was its progress that a man and a woman were burnt to death before
+they could reach a place of safety; another man with his wife and child
+were much burnt, and several other persons narrowly escaped destruction.
+Among the rest a boy of the half white breed escaped unhurt in the midst
+of the flames; his safety was ascribed to the great medicine spirit, who
+had preserved him on account of his being white. But a much more natural
+cause was the presence of mind of his mother, who seeing no hopes of
+carrying off her son, threw him on the ground, and covering him with the
+fresh hide of a buffaloe, escaped herself from the flames; as soon as
+the fire had passed, she returned and found him untouched, the skin
+having prevented, the flame from reaching the grass on which he lay.
+
+Tuesday 30. We were this morning visited by two persons from the lower
+village, one the Big White the chief of the village, the other the
+Chayenne called the Big Man; they had been hunting, and did not return
+yesterday early enough to attend the council. At their request we
+repeated part of our speech of yesterday, and put the medal round the
+neck of the chief. Captain Clarke took a periogue and went up the river
+in search of a good wintering place, and returned after going seven
+miles to the lower point of an island on the north side, about one mile
+in length; he found the banks on the north side high, with coal
+occasionally, and the country fine on all sides; but the want of wood
+and the scarcity of game up the river, induced us to decide on fixing
+ourselves lower down during the winter. In the evening our men danced
+among themselves to the great amusement of the Indians.
+
+Wednesday 31. A second chief arrived this morning with an invitation
+from the grand chief of the Mandans, to come to his village where he
+wished to present some corn to us and to speak with us. Captain Clarke
+walked down to his village; he was first seated with great ceremony on a
+robe by the side of the chief, who then threw over his shoulders another
+robe handsomely ornamented. The pipe was then smoked with several of the
+old men who were seated around the chief; after some time he began his
+discourse, by observing that he believed what we had told him, and that
+they should soon enjoy peace, which would gratify him as well as his
+people, because they could then hunt without fear of being attacked, and
+the women might work in the fields without looking every moment for the
+enemy, and at night put off their moccasins, a phrase by which is
+conveyed the idea of security when the women could undress at night
+without fear of attack. As to the Ricaras, he continued, in order to
+show you that we wish peace with all men, that chief, pointing to his
+second chief, will go with some warriors back to the Ricaras with their
+chief now here and smoke with that nation. When we heard of your coming
+all the nations around returned from their hunting to see you, in hopes
+of receiving large presents; all are disappointed and some discontented;
+for his part he was not much so, though his village was. He added that
+he would go and see his great father the president. Two of the steel
+traps stolen from the Frenchmen were then laid before captain Clarke,
+and the women brought about twelve bushels of corn. After the chief had
+finished, captain Clarke made an answer to the speech and then returned
+to the boat, where he found the chief of the third village and Kagohami
+(the Little Raven) who smoked and talked about an hour. After they left
+the boat the grand chief of the Mandans came dressed in the clothes we
+had given him, with his two children, and begged to see the men dance,
+in which they willingly gratified him.
+
+Thursday, November 1st. Mr. M'Cracken, the trader whom we found here,
+set out to-day on his return to the British fort and factory on the
+Assiniboin river, about one hundred and fifty miles from this place. He
+took a letter from captain Lewis to the northwest company, inclosing a
+copy of the passport granted by the British minister in the United
+States. At ten o'clock the chiefs of the lower village arrived; they
+requested that we would call at their village for some corn, that they
+were willing to make peace with the Ricaras, that they had never
+provoked the war between them, but as the Ricaras had killed some of
+their chiefs, they had retaliated on them; that they had killed them
+like birds, till they were tired of killing them, so that they would
+send a chief and some warriors to smoke with them. In the evening we
+dropped down to the lower village where captain Lewis went on shore, and
+captain Clarke proceeded to a point of wood on the north side.
+
+Friday, November 2. He therefore went up to the village where eleven
+bushels of corn were presented to him. In the meantime Captain Clarke
+went down with the boats three miles, and having found a good position
+where there was plenty of timber, encamped and began to fell trees to
+build our huts. Our Ricara chief set out with one Mandan chief and
+several Minnetaree and Mandan warriors; the wind was from the southeast,
+and the weather being fine a crowd of Indians came down to visit us.
+
+Saturday 3. We now began the building of our cabins, and the Frenchmen
+who are to return to St. Louis are building a periogue for the purpose.
+We sent six men in a periogue to hunt down the river. We were also
+fortunate enough to engage in our service a Canadian Frenchmen, who had
+been with the Chayenne Indians on the Black mountains, and last summer
+descended thence by the Little Missouri. Mr. Jessaume our interpreter
+also came down with his squaw and children to live at our camp. In the
+evening we received a visit from Kagohami or Little Raven, whose wife
+accompanied him, bringing about sixty weight of dried meat, a robe and a
+pot of meal. We gave him in return a piece of tobacco, to his wife an
+axe and a few small articles, and both of them spent the night at our
+camp. Two beavers were caught in traps this morning.
+
+Sunday 4. We continued our labours: the timber which we employ is large
+and heavy, and chiefly consists of cottonwood and elm with some ash of
+an inferior size. Great numbers of the Indians pass our camp on their
+hunting excursions: the day was clear and pleasant, but last night was
+very cold and there was a white frost.
+
+Monday 5. The Indians are all out on their hunting parties: a camp of
+Mandans caught within two days one hundred goats a short distance below
+us: their mode of hunting them is to form a large strong pen or fold,
+from which a fence made of bushes gradually widens on each side: the
+animals are surrounded by the hunters and gently driven towards this
+pen, in which they imperceptibly find themselves inclosed and are then
+at the mercy of the hunters. The weather is cloudy and the wind moderate
+from the northwest. Late at night we were awaked by the sergeant on
+guard to see the beautiful phenomenon called the northern light: along
+the northern sky was a large space occupied by a light of a pale but
+brilliant white colour: which rising from the horizon extended itself to
+nearly twenty degrees above it. After glittering for some time its
+colours would be overcast, and almost obscured, but again it would burst
+out with renewed beauty; the uniform colour was pale light, but its
+shapes were various and fantastic: at times the sky was lined with light
+coloured streaks rising perpendicularly from the horizon, and gradually
+expanding into a body of light in which we could trace the floating
+columns sometimes advancing, sometimes retreating and shaping into
+infinite forms, the space in which they moved. It all faded away before
+the morning. At daylight,
+
+Tuesday 6, the clouds to the north were darkening and the wind rose high
+from the northwest at eight o'clock, and continued cold during the day.
+Mr. Gravelines and four others who came with us returned to the Ricaras
+in a small periogue, we gave him directions to accompany some of the
+Ricara chiefs to the seat of government in the spring.
+
+Wednesday 7. The day was temperate but cloudy and foggy, and we were
+enabled to go on with our work with much expedition.
+
+Thursday 8. The morning again cloudy; our huts advance very well, and we
+are visited by numbers of Indians who come to let their horses graze
+near us: in the day the horses are let loose in quest of grass, in the
+night they are collected and receive an armful of small boughs of the
+cottonwood, which being very juicy, soft and brittle, form nutritious
+and agreeable food: the frost this morning was very severe, the weather
+during the day cloudy and the wind from the northwest. We procured from
+an Indian a weasel perfectly white except the extremity of the tail
+which was black: great numbers of wild geese are passing to the south,
+but their flight is too high for us to procure any of them.
+
+November 10. We had again a raw day, a northwest wind, but rose early
+in hopes of finishing our works before the extreme cold begins. A chief
+who is a half Pawnee came to us and brought a present of half a
+buffaloe, in return for which we gave him some small presents and a few
+articles to his wife and son: he then crossed the river in a buffaloe
+skin canoe; his wife took the boat on her back and carried it to the
+village three miles off. Large flocks of geese and brant, and also a few
+ducks are passing towards the south.
+
+Sunday 11. The weather is cold. We received the visit of two squaws,
+prisoners from the Rock mountains, and purchased by Chaboneau. The
+Mandans at this time are out hunting the buffaloe.
+
+Monday 12. The last night had been cold and this morning we had a very
+hard frost: the wind changeable during the day, and some ice appears on
+the edges of the rivers; swans too are passing to the south. The Big
+White came down to us, having packed on the back of his squaw about one
+hundred pounds of very fine meat: for which we gave him as well as the
+squaw some presents, particularly an axe to the woman with which she was
+very much pleased.
+
+Tuesday 13. We this morning unloaded the boat and stowed away the
+contents in a storehouse which we have built. At half past ten ice began
+to float down the river for the first time: in the course of the morning
+we were visited by the Black Cat, Poscapsahe, who brought an Assiniboin
+chief and seven warriors to see us. This man, whose name is Chechawk, is
+a chief of one out of three bands of Assiniboins who wander over the
+plains between the Missouri and Assiniboin during the summer, and in the
+winter carry the spoils of their hunting to the traders on the
+Assiniboin river, and occasionally come to this place: the whole three
+bands consist of about eight hundred men. We gave him a twist of tobacco
+to smoke with his people, and a gold cord for himself: the Sioux also
+asked for whiskey which we refused to give them. It snowed all day and
+the air was very cold.
+
+Wednesday 14. The river rose last night half an inch, and is now filled
+with floating ice. This morning was cloudy with some snow: about seventy
+lodges of Assiniboins and some Knistenaux are at the Mandan village, and
+this being the day of adoption and exchange of property between them
+all, it is accompanied by a dance, which prevents our seeing more than
+two Indians to-day: these Knistenaux are a band of Chippeways whose
+language they speak; they live on the Assiniboin and Saskashawan rivers,
+and are about two hundred and forty men. We sent a man down on horseback
+to see what had become of our hunters, and as we apprehend a failure of
+provisions we have recourse to our pork this evening. Two Frenchmen who
+had been below returned with twenty beaver which they had caught in
+traps.
+
+Thursday 15. The morning again cloudy, and the ice running thicker than
+yesterday, the wind variable. The man came back with information that
+our hunters were about thirty miles below, and we immediately sent an
+order to them to make their way through the floating ice, to assist them
+in which we sent some tin for the bow of the periogue and a towrope. The
+ceremony of yesterday seem to continue still, for we were not visited by
+a single Indian. The swan are still passing to the south.
+
+Friday 16. We had a very hard white frost this morning, the trees are
+all covered with ice, and the weather cloudy. The men this day moved
+into the huts, although they are not finished. In the evening some
+horses were sent down to the woods near us in order to prevent their
+being stolen by the Assiniboins, with whom some difficulty is now
+apprehended. An Indian came down with four buffaloe robes and some corn,
+which he offered for a pistol, but was refused.
+
+Saturday, November 17. Last night was very cold, and the ice in the
+river to-day is thicker than hitherto. We are totally occupied with our
+huts, but received visits from several Indians.
+
+Sunday, November 18. To-day we had a cold windy morning; the Black Cat
+came to see us, and occupied us for a long time with questions on the
+usages of our country. He mentioned that a council had been held
+yesterday to deliberate on the state of their affairs. It seems that not
+long ago, a party of Sioux fell in with some horses belonging to the
+Minnetarees, and carried them off; but in their flight they were met by
+some Assiniboins, who killed the Sioux and kept the horses: a Frenchman
+too who had lived many years among the Mandans, was lately killed on his
+route to the British factory on the Assiniboin; some smaller differences
+existed between the two nations, all of which being discussed, the
+council decided that they would not resent the recent insults from the
+Assiniboins and Knistenaux, until they had seen whether we had deceived
+them or not in our promises of furnishing them with arms and ammunition.
+They had been disappointed in their hopes of receiving them from Mr.
+Evans and were afraid that we too, like him, might tell them what was
+not true. We advised them to continue at peace, that supplies of every
+kind would no doubt arrive for them, but that time was necessary to
+organize the trade. The fact is that the Assiniboins treat the Mandans
+as the Sioux do the Ricaras; by their vicinity to the British they get
+all the supplies, which they withhold or give at pleasure to the remoter
+Indians: the consequence is, that however badly treated, the Mandans and
+Ricaras are very slow to retaliate lest they should* lose their trade
+altogether.
+
+Monday 19. The ice continues to float in the river, the wind high from
+the northwest, and the weather cold. Our hunters arrived from their
+excursion below, and bring a very fine supply of thirty-two deer, eleven
+elk, and five buffaloe, all of which was hung in a smokehouse.
+
+Tuesday 20. We this day moved into our huts which are now completed.
+This place which we call Fort Mandan, is situated in a point of low
+ground, on the north side of the Missouri, covered with tall and heavy
+cottonwood. The works consist of two rows of huts or sheds, forming an
+angle where they joined each other; each row containing four rooms, of
+fourteen feet square and seven feet high, with plank ceiling*, and the
+roof slanting so as to form a loft above the rooms, the highest part of
+which is eighteen feet from the ground: the backs of the huts formed a
+wall of that height, and opposite the angle the place of the wall was
+supplied by picketing; in the area were two rooms for stores and
+provisions. The latitude by observation is 47° 21' 47", and the computed
+distance from the mouth of the Missouri sixteen hundred miles.
+
+In the course of the day several Indians came down to partake of our
+fresh meat; among the rest, three chiefs of the second Mandan village.
+They inform us that the Sioux on the Missouri above the Chayenne river,
+threaten to attack them this winter; that these Sioux are much irritated
+at the Ricaras for having made peace through our means with the Mandans,
+and have lately ill treated three Ricaras who carried the pipe of peace
+to them, by beating them and taking away their horses. We gave them
+assurances that we would protect them from all their enemies.
+
+November 21st. The weather was this day fine: the river clear of ice and
+rising a little: we are now settled in our new winter habitation, and
+shall wait with much anxiety the first return of spring to continue our
+journey.
+
+The villages near which we are established are five in number, and are
+the residence of three distinct nations: the Mandans, the Ahnahaways,
+and the Minnetarees. The history of the Mandans, as we received it from
+our interpreters and from the chiefs themselves, and as it is attested
+by existing monuments, illustrates more than that of any other nation
+the unsteady movements and the tottering fortunes of the American
+nations. Within the recollection of living witnesses, the Mandans were
+settled forty years ago in nine villages, the ruins of which we passed
+about eighty miles below, and situated seven on the west and two on the
+east side of the Missouri. The two finding themselves wasting away
+before the small-pox and the Sioux, united into one village, and moved
+up the river opposite to the Ricaras. The same causes reduced the
+remaining seven to five villages, till at length they emigrated in a
+body to the Ricara nation, where they formed themselves into two
+villages, and joined those of their countrymen who had gone before them.
+In their new residence they were still insecure, and at length the three
+villages ascended the Missouri to their present position. The two who
+had emigrated together still settled in the two villages on the
+northwest side of the Missouri, while the single village took a position
+on the southeast side. In this situation they were found by those who
+visited them in 1796; since which the two villages have united into one.
+They are now in two villages, one on the southeast of the Missouri, the
+other on the opposite side, and at the distance of three miles across.
+The first, in an open plain, contains about forty or fifty lodges, built
+in the same way as those of the Ricaras: the second, the same number,
+and both may raise about three hundred and fifty men.
+
+On the same side of the river, and at the distance of four miles from
+the lower Mandan village, is another called Mahaha. It is situated in a
+high plain at the mouth of Knife river, and is the residence of the
+Ahnahaways. This nation, whose name indicates that they were "people
+whose village is on a hill," formerly resided on the Missouri, about
+thirty miles below where they now live. The Assiniboins and Sioux forced
+them to a spot five miles higher, where the greatest part of them were
+put to death, and the rest emigrated to their present situation, in
+order to obtain an assylum near the Minnetarees. They are called by the
+French, Soulier Noir or Shoe Indians; by the Mandans, Wattasoons, and
+their whole force is about fifty men.
+
+On the south side of the same Knife river, half a mile above the Mahaha
+and in the same open plain with it, is a village of Minnetarees surnamed
+Metaharta, who are about one hundred and fifty men in number. On the
+opposite side of Knife river, and one and a half mile above this village
+is a second of Minnetarees, who may be considered as the proper
+Minnetaree nation. It is situated in a beautiful low plain, and contains
+four hundred and fifty warriors. The accounts which we received of the
+Minnetarees were contradictory. The Mandans say that this people came
+out of the water to the east, and settled near them in their former
+establishment in nine villages; that they were very numerous, and fixed
+themselves in one village on the southern side of the Missouri. A
+quarrel about a buffaloe divided the nation, of which two bands went
+into the plains, and were known by the name of Crow and Paunch Indians,
+and the rest moved to their present establishment. The Minnetarees
+proper assert, on the contrary, that they grew where they now live, and
+will never emigrate from the spot; the great spirit having declared that
+if they moved they would all die. They also say that the Minnetarees
+Metaharta, that is Minnetarees of the Willows, whose language with very
+little variation is their own, came many years ago from the plains and
+settled near them, and perhaps the two traditions may be reconciled by
+the natural presumption that these Minnetarees were the tribe known to
+the Mandans below, and that they ascended the river for the purpose of
+rejoining the Minnetarees proper. These Minnetarees are part of the
+great nation called Fall Indians, who occupy the intermediate country
+between the Missouri and the Saskaskawan, and who are known by the name
+of Minnetarees of the Missouri, and Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie; that
+is, residing near or rather frequenting the establishment in the prairie
+on the Saskaskawan. These Minnetarees indeed, told us that they had
+relations on the Saskaskawan, whom they had never known till they met
+them in war, and having engaged in the night were astonished at
+discovering that they were fighting with men who spoke their own
+language. The name of Grosventres, or Bigbellies is given to these
+Minnetarees, as well as to all the Fall Indians. The inhabitants of
+these five villages, all of which are within the distance of six miles,
+live in harmony with each other. The Ahnahaways understand in part the
+language of the Minnetarees: the dialect of the Mandans differs widely
+from both; but their long residence together has insensibly blended
+their manners, and occasioned some approximation in language,
+particularly as to objects of daily occurrence and obvious to the
+senses.
+
+November 22. The morning was fine, and the day warm. We purchased from
+the Mandans a quantity of corn of a mixed colour, which they dug up in
+ears from holes made near the front of their lodges, in which it is
+buried during the winter: this morning the sentinel informed us that an
+Indian was about to kill his wife near the fort; we went down to the
+house of our interpreter where we found the parties, and after
+forbidding any violence, inquired into the cause of his intending to
+commit such as atrocity. It appeared that some days ago a quarrel had
+taken place between him and his wife, in consequence of which she had
+taken refuge in the house where the two squaws of our interpreter lived:
+by running away she forfeited her life, which might have been lawfully
+taken by the husband. About two days ago she had returned to the
+village, but the same evening came back to the fort much beaten and
+stabbed in three places, and the husband now came for the purpose of
+completing his revenge. He observed that he had lent her to one of our
+serjeants for a night, and that if he wanted her he would give her to
+him altogether: we gave him a few presents and tried to persuade him to
+take his wife home; the grand chief too happened to arrive at the same
+moment, and reproached him with his violence, till at length they went
+off together, but by no means in a state of much apparent love.
+
+November 23. Again we had a fair and warm day, with the wind from the
+southeast: the river is now at a stand having risen four inches in the
+whole.
+
+November 24. The wind continued from the same quarter and the weather
+was warm: we were occupied in finishing our huts and making a large rope
+of elk-skin to draw our boat on the bank.
+
+Sunday, November 25. The weather is still fine, warm and pleasant, and
+the river falls one inch and a half. Captain Lewis went on an excursion
+to the villages accompanied by eight men. A Minnetaree chief, the first
+who has visited us, came down to the fort: his name was Waukerassa, but
+as both the interpreters had gone with captain Lewis we were obliged to
+confine our civilities to some presents with which he was much pleased:
+we now completed our huts, and fortunately too, for the next day,
+
+Monday, November 26, before daylight the wind shifted to the northwest,
+and blew very hard, with cloudy weather and a keen cold air, which
+confined us much and prevented us from working: the night continued very
+cold, and,
+
+Tuesday 27, the weather cloudy, the wind continuing from the northwest
+and the river crowded with floating ice. Captain Lewis returned with two
+chiefs Mahnotah, an Ahnahaway, and Minnessurraree a Minnetaree, and a
+third warrior: they explained to us that the reason of their not having
+come to see us, was that the Mandans had told them that we meant to
+combine with the Sioux and cut them off in the course of the winter: a
+suspicion increased by the strength of the fort, and the circumstance of
+our interpreters having both removed there with their families: these
+reports we did not fail to disprove to their entire satisfaction, and
+amused them by every attention, particularly by the dancing of the men
+which diverted them highly. All the Indians whom captain Lewis had
+visited were very well disposed, and received him with great kindness,
+except a principal chief of one of the upper villages, named
+Mabpahpaparapassatoo or Horned Weasel, who made use of the civilized
+indecorum of refusing to be seen, and when captain Lewis called he was
+told the chief was not at home. In the course of the day seven of the
+northwest company's traders arrived from the Assiniboin river, and one
+of their interpreters having undertaken to circulate among the Indians
+unfavourable reports, it become necessary to warn them of the
+consequences if they did not desist from such proceedings. The river
+fell two inches to-day and the weather became very cold.
+
+Wednesday 28. About eight o'clock last evening it began to snow and
+continued till daybreak, after which it ceased till seven o'clock, but
+then resumed and continued during the day, the weather being cold and
+the river full of floating ice: about eight o'clock Poscopsahe came down
+to visit us, with some warriors; we gave them presents and entertained
+them with all that might amuse their curiosity, and at parting we told
+them that we had heard of the British trader, Mr. Laroche, having
+attempted to distribute medals and flags among them, but that those
+emblems could not be received from any other than the American nation
+without incurring the displeasure of their great father the president.
+They left us much pleased with their treatment. The river fell one inch
+to-day.
+
+Thursday 29. The wind is again from the northwest, the weather cold, and
+the snow which fell yesterday and this night is thirteen inches in
+depth. The river closed during the night at the village above, and fell
+two feet; but this afternoon it began to rise a little. Mr. Laroche, the
+principal of the seven traders, came with one of his men to see us; we
+told him that we should not permit him to give medals and flags to the
+Indians; he declared that he had no such intention, and we then suffered
+him to make use of one of our interpreters, on his stipulating not to
+touch any subject but that of his traffic with them. An unfortunate
+accident occurred to sergeant Pryor, who in taking down the boat's mast
+dislocated his shoulder, nor was it till after four trials that we
+replaced it.
+
+Friday 30. About eight o'clock an Indian came to the opposite bank of
+the river, calling out that he had something important to communicate,
+and on sending for him, he told us that five Mandans had been met about
+eight leagues to the southwest by a party of Sioux, who had killed one
+of them, wounded two, and taken nine horses; that four of the Wattasoons
+were missing, and that the Mandans expected an attack. We thought this
+an excellent opportunity to discountenance the injurious reports against
+us, and to fix the wavering confidence of the nation. Captain Clarke
+therefore instantly crossed the river with twenty-three men strongly
+armed, and circling the town approached it from behind. His unexpected
+appearance surprised and alarmed the chiefs, who came out to meet him,
+and conducted him to the village. He then told them that having heard of
+the outrage just committed, he had come to assist his dutiful children;
+that if they would assemble their warriors and those of the nation, he
+would lead them against the Sioux and avenge the blood of their
+countrymen. After some minutes conversation, Oheenaw the Chayenne arose;
+"We now see," said he, "that what you have told us is true, since as
+soon as our enemies threaten to attack us you come to protect us and are
+ready to chastise those who have spilt our blood. We did indeed listen
+to your good talk, for when you told us that the other nations were
+inclined to peace with us, we went out carelessly in small parties, and
+some have been killed by the Sioux and Ricaras. But I knew that the
+Ricaras were liars, and I told their chief who accompanied you, that his
+whole nation were liars and bad men; that we had several times made a
+peace with them which they were the first to break; that whenever we
+pleased we might shoot them like buffaloe, but that we had no wish to
+kill them; that we would not suffer them to kill us, nor steal our
+horses; and that although we agreed to make peace with them, because our
+two fathers desired it, yet we did not believe that they would be
+faithful long. Such, father, was my language to them in your presence,
+and you see that instead of listening to your good counsels they have
+spilt our blood. A few days ago two Ricaras came here and told us that
+two of their villages were making moccasins, that the Sioux were
+stirring them up against us, and that we ought to take care of our
+horses; yet these very Ricaras we sent home as soon as the news reached
+us to-day, lest our people should kill them in the first moment of grief
+for their murdered relatives. Four of the Wattasoons whom we expected
+back in sixteen days have been absent twenty-four, and we fear have
+fallen. But father the snow is now deep, the weather cold, and our
+horses cannot travel through the plains; the murderers have gone off: if
+you will conduct us in the spring, when the snow has disappeared, we
+will assemble all the surrounding warriors and follow you."
+
+Captain Clarke replied that we were always willing and able to defend
+them; that he was sorry that the snow prevented their marching to meet
+the Sioux, since he wished to show them that the warriors of their great
+father would chastise the enemies of his obedient children who opened
+their ears to his advice; that if some Ricaras had joined the Sioux,
+they should remember that there were bad men in every nation, and that
+they should not be offended at the Ricaras till they saw whether these
+ill-disposed men were countenanced by the whole tribe; that the Sioux
+possessed great influence over the Ricaras, whom they supplied with
+military stores, and sometimes led them astray, because they were afraid
+to oppose them: but that this should be the less offensive since the
+Mandans themselves were under the same apprehensions from the
+Assiniboins and Knistenaux, and that while they were thus dependant,
+both the Ricaras and Mandans ought to keep on terms with their powerful
+neighbours, whom they may afterwards set at defiance, when we shall
+supply them with arms, and take them under our protection.
+
+After two hours conversation captain Clarke left the village. The chief
+repeatedly thanked him for the fatherly protection he had given them,
+observing that the whole village had been weeping all night and day for
+the brave young man who had been slain, but now they would wipe their
+eyes and weep no more as they saw that their father would protect them.
+He then crossed the river on the ice and returned on the north side to
+the fort. The day as well as the evening was cold, and the river rose to
+its former height.
+
+Saturday, December 1. The wind was from the northwest, and the whole
+party engaged in picketing the fort. About ten o'clock the half-brother
+of the man who had been killed, came to inform us that six Sharhas or
+Chayenne Indians had arrived, bringing a pipe of peace, and that their
+nation was three days march behind them. Three Pawnees had accompanied
+the Sharhas, and the Mandans being afraid of the Sharhas on account of
+their being at peace with the Sioux, wished to put both them and the
+three Pawnees to death; but the chiefs had forbidden it as it would be
+contrary to our wishes. We gave him a present of tobacco, and although
+from his connexion with the sufferer, he was more embittered against the
+Pawnees than any other Mandan, yet he seemed perfectly satisfied with
+our pacific counsels and advice. The Mandans, we observe, call all the
+Ricaras by the name of Pawnees; the name of Ricaras being that by which
+the nation distinguishes itself.
+
+In the evening we were visited by a Mr. Henderson, who came from the
+Hudson bay company to trade with the Minnetarees. He had been about
+eight days on his route in a direction nearly south, and brought with
+him tobacco, beeds, and other merchandize to trade for furs, and a few
+guns which are to be exchanged for horses.
+
+Sunday, December 2. The latter part of the evening was warm, and a thaw
+continued till the morning, when the wind shifted to the north. At
+eleven o'clock the chiefs of the lower village brought down four of the
+Sharhas. We explained to them our intentions, and advised them to remain
+at peace with each other: we also gave them a flag, some tobacco, and a
+speech for their nation. These were accompanied by a letter to messrs.
+Tabeau and Gravelines at the Ricara village, requesting them to preserve
+peace if possible, and to declare the part which we should be forced to
+take if the Ricaras and Sioux made war on those whom we had adopted.
+After distributing a few presents to the Sharhas and Mandans, and
+showing them our curiosities we dismissed them, apparently well pleased
+at their reception.
+
+Monday, December 3. The morning was fine, but in the afternoon the
+weather became cold with the wind from the northwest. The father of the
+Mandan who was killed brought us a present of dried pumpkins and some
+pemitigon, for which we gave him some small articles. Our offer of
+assistance to avenge the death of his son seemed to have produced a
+grateful respect from him, as well as from the brother of the deceased,
+which pleased us much.
+
+Tuesday 4th. The wind continues from the northwest, the weather cloudy
+and raw, and the river rose one inch, Oscapsahe and two young chiefs
+pass the day with us. The whole religion of the Mandans consists in the
+belief of one great spirit presiding over their destinies. This being
+must be in the nature of a good genius since it is associated with the
+healing art, and the great spirit is synonymous with great medicine, a
+name also applied to every thing which they do not comprehend. Each
+individual selects for himself the particular object of his devotion,
+which is termed his medicine, and is either some invisible being or more
+commonly some animal, which thenceforward becomes his protector or his
+intercessor with the great spirit; to propitiate whom every attention is
+lavished, and every personal consideration is sacrificed. "I was lately
+owner of seventeen horses," said a Mandan to us one day, "but I have
+offered them all up to my medicine and am now poor." He had in reality
+taken all his wealth, his horses, into the plain, and turning them loose
+committed them to the care of his medicine and abandoned them forever.
+The horses less religious took care of themselves, and the pious votary
+travelled home on foot. Their belief in a future state is connected with
+this tradition of their origin: the whole nation resided in one large
+village under ground near a subterraneous lake; a grape-vine extended
+its roots down to their habitation and gave them a view of the light:
+some of the most adventurous climed up the vine and were delighted with
+the sight of the earth, which they found covered with buffaloe and rich
+with every kind of fruits: returning with the grapes they had gathered,
+their countrymen were so pleased with the taste of them that the whole
+nation resolved to leave their dull residence for the charms of the
+upper region; men, women and children ascended by means of the vine; but
+when about half the nation had reached the surface of the earth, a
+corpulent woman who was clambering up the vine broke it with her weight,
+and closed upon herself and the rest of the nation the light of the sun.
+Those who were left on earth made a village below where we saw the nine
+villages; and when the Mandans die they expect to return to the original
+seats of their forefathers; the good reaching the ancient village by
+means of the lake, which the burden of the sins of the wicked will not
+enable them to cross.
+
+Wednesday 5. The morning was cold and disagreeable, the wind from the
+southeast accompanied with snow: in the evening there was snow again and
+the wind shifted to the northeast: we were visited by several Indians
+with a present of pumpkins, and by two of the traders of the northwest
+company.
+
+Thursday 6. The wind was violent from the north northwest with some
+snow, the air keen and cold. At eight o'clock A.M. the thermometer stood
+at ten degrees above 0, and the river rose an inch and a half in the
+course of the day.
+
+Friday, December 7. The wind still continued from the northwest and the
+day is very cold: Shahaka the chief of the lower village came to apprise
+us that the buffaloe were near, and that his people were waiting for us
+to join them in the chase: captain Clark with fifteen men went out and
+found the Indians engaged in killing the buffaloe, the hunters mounted
+on horseback and armed with bows and arrows encircle the herd, and
+gradually drive them into a plain or an open place fit for the movements
+of horse; they then ride in among them, and singling out a buffaloe, a
+female being preferred, go as close as possible and wound her with
+arrows till they think they have given the mortal stroke; when they
+pursue another till the quiver is exhausted: if, which rarely happens,
+the wounded buffaloe attacks the hunter, he evades his blow by the
+agility of his horse which is trained for the combat with great
+dexterity. When they have killed the requisite number they collect their
+game, and the squaws and attendants come up from the rear and skin and
+dress the animals. Captain Clarke killed ten buffaloe, of which five
+only were brought to the fort, the rest which could not be conveyed home
+being seized by the Indians, among whom the custom is that whenever a
+buffaloe is found dead without an arrow or any particular mark, he is
+the property of the finder; so that often a hunter secures scarcely any
+of the game he kills if the arrow happens to fall off: whatever is left
+out at night falls to the share of the wolves, who are the constant and
+numerous attendants of the buffaloe. The river closed opposite the fort
+last night, an inch and a half in thickness. In the morning the
+thermometer stood at one degree below 0. Three men were badly
+frostbitten in consequence of their exposure.
+
+Saturday 8. The thermometer stood at twelve degrees below 0, that is at
+forty-two degrees below the freezing point: the wind was from the
+northwest. Captain Lewis with fifteen men went out to hunt the buffaloe;
+great numbers of which darkened the prairies for a considerable
+distance: they did not return till after dark, having killed eight
+buffaloe and one deer. The hunt was, however, very fatiguing, as they
+were obliged to make a circuit at the distance of more than seven miles;
+the cold too, was so excessive that the air was filled with icy
+particles resembling a fog, and the snow generally six or eight inches
+deep and sometimes eighteen, in consequence of which two of the party
+were hurt by falls, and several had their feet frostbitten.
+
+Sunday 9. The wind was this day from the east, the thermometer at seven
+degrees above 0, and the sun shone clear: two chiefs visited us, one in
+a sleigh drawn by a dog and loaded with meat.
+
+Monday 10. Captain Clarke who had gone out yesterday with eighteen men
+to bring in the meat we had killed the day before, and to continue the
+hunt, came in at twelve o'clock. After killing nine buffaloe and
+preparing that already dead, he had spent a cold disagreeable night on
+the snow, with no covering but a small blanket, sheltered by the hides
+of the buffaloe they had killed. We observe large herds of buffaloe
+crossing the river on the ice, the men who were frostbitten are
+recovering, but the weather is still exceedingly cold, the wind being
+from the north, and the thermometer at ten and eleven degrees below 0:
+the rise of the river is one inch and a half.
+
+Tuesday 11. The weather became so intensely cold that we sent for all
+the hunters who had remained out with captain Clarke's party, and they
+returned in the evening several of them frostbitten. The wind was from
+the north and the thermometer at sunrise stood at twenty-one below 0,
+the ice in the atmosphere being so thick as to render the weather hazy
+and give the appearance of two suns reflecting each other. The river
+continues at a stand. Pocapsahe made us a visit to-day.
+
+Wednesday, December 12. The wind is still from the north, the
+thermometer being at sunrise thirty-eight degrees below 0. One of the
+Ahnahaways brought us down the half of an antelope killed near the fort;
+we had been informed that all these animals return to the Black
+mountains, but there are great numbers of them about us at this season
+which we might easily kill, but are unwilling to venture out before our
+constitutions are hardened gradually to the climate. We measured the
+river on the ice, and find it five hundred yards wide immediately
+opposite the fort.
+
+Thursday 13. Last night was clear and a very heavy frost covered the old
+snow, the thermometer at sun rise being twenty degrees below 0, and
+followed by a fine day. The river falls.
+
+Friday 14. The morning was fine, and the weather having moderated so
+far, that the mercury stood at 0, captain Lewis went down with a party
+to hunt; they proceeded about eighteen miles, but the buffaloe having
+left the banks of the river they saw only two, which were so poor as not
+to be worth killing, and shot two deer. Notwithstanding the snow we were
+visited by a large number of the Mandans.
+
+Saturday 15. Captain Lewis finding no game returned to the fort hunting
+on both sides of the river, but with no success. The wind being from the
+north, the mercury at sunrise eight degrees below 0, and the snow of
+last night an inch and a half in depth. The Indian chiefs continue to
+visit us to-day with presents of meat.
+
+Sunday 16. The morning is clear and cold, the mercury at sunrise 22°
+below 0. A Mr. Haney with two other persons from the British
+establishment on the Assiniboin, arrived in six days with a letter from
+Mr. Charles Chabouilles, one of the company, who with much politeness
+offered to render us any service in his power.
+
+Monday 17. The weather to-day was colder than any we had yet
+experienced, the thermometer at sunrise being 45° below 0, and about
+eight o'clock it fell to 74° below the freezing point. From Mr. Haney,
+who is a very sensible intelligent man, we obtained much geographical
+information with regard to the country between the Missouri and
+Mississippi, and the various tribes of Sioux who inhabit it.
+
+Tuesday 18. The thermometer at sunrise was 32° below 0. The Indians had
+invited us yesterday to join their chace to-day, but the seven men whom
+we sent returned in consequence of the cold, which was so severe last
+night that we were obliged to have the sentinel relieved every half
+hour. The northwest traders however left us on their return home.
+
+Wednesday 19. The weather moderated, and the river rose a little,
+so that we were enabled to continue the picketing of the fort.
+Notwithstanding the extreme cold, we observe the Indians at the village
+engaged out in the open air at a game which resembled billiards more
+than any thing we had seen, and which we inclined to suspect may have
+been acquired by ancient intercourse with the French of Canada. From
+the first to the second chief's lodge, a distance of about fifty yards,
+was covered with timber smoothed and joined so as to be as level as the
+floor of one of our houses, with a battery at the end to stop the rings:
+these rings were of clay-stone and flat like the chequers for drafts,
+and the sticks were about four feet long, with two short pieces at one
+end in the form of a mace, so fixed that the whole will slide along the
+board. Two men fix themselves at one end, each provided with a stick,
+and one of them with a ring: they then run along the board, and about
+half way slide the sticks after the ring.
+
+Thursday 20. The wind was from the N.W. the weather moderate, the
+thermometer 24° above at sunrise. We availed ourselves of this change to
+picket the fort near the river.
+
+Friday 21. The day was fine and warm, the wind N.W. by W. The Indian
+who had been prevented a few days ago from killing his wife, came with
+both his wives to the fort, and was very desirous of reconciling our
+interpreter, a jealousy against whom on account of his wife's taking
+refuge in his house, had been the cause of his animosity. A woman
+brought her child with an abscess in the lower part of the back, and
+offered as much corn as she could carry for some medicine; we
+administered to it of course very cheerfully.
+
+Saturday, 22d. A number of squaws and men dressed like squaws brought
+corn to trade for small articles with the men. Among other things we
+procured two horns of the animal called by the French the Rock mountain
+sheep, and known to the Mandans by the name of ahsahta. The animal
+itself is about the size of a small elk or large deer: the horns winding
+like those of a ram which they resemble also in texture, though larger
+and thicker.
+
+Sunday, 23d. The weather was fine and warm like that of yesterday: we
+were again visited by crowds of Indians of all descriptions, who came
+either to trade or from mere curiosity. Among the rest Kogahami, the
+Little Raven, brought his wife and son loaded with corn, and she then
+entertained us with a favourite Mandan dish, a mixture of pumpkins,
+beans, corn, and chokecherries with the stones, all boiled together in a
+kettle, and forming a composition by no means unpalatable.
+
+Monday, 24th. The day continued warm and pleasant, and the number of
+visitors became troublesome. As a present to three of the chiefs, we
+divided a fillet of sheepskin which we brought for spunging into three
+pieces each of two inches in width; they were delighted at the gift,
+which they deemed of equal value with a fine horse. We this day
+completed our fort, and the next morning being Christmas,
+
+Tuesday, 25th, we were awaked before day by a discharge of three
+platoons from the party. We had told the Indians not to visit us as it
+was one of our great medicine days; so that the men remained at home and
+amused themselves in various ways, particularly with dancing in which
+they take great pleasure. The American flag was hoisted for the first
+time in the fort; the best provisions we had were brought out, and this,
+with a little brandy, enabled them to pass the day in great festivity.
+
+Wednesday, 26th. The weather is again temperate, but no Indians have
+come to see us. One of the northwest traders who came down to request
+the aid of our Minnetaree interpreter, informs us that a party of
+Minnetarees who had gone in pursuit of the Assiniboins who lately stole
+their horses had just returned. As is their custom, they came back in
+small detachments, the last of which brought home eight horses which
+they had captured or stolen from an Assiniboin camp on Mouse river.
+
+Thursday, 27th. A little fine snow fell this morning and the air was
+colder than yesterday, with a high northwest wind. We were fortunate
+enough to have among our men a good blacksmith, whom we set to work to
+make a variety of articles; his operations seemed to surprise the
+Indians who came to see us, but nothing could equal their astonishment
+at the bellows, which they considered as a very great medicine. Having
+heretofore promised a more particular account of the Sioux, the
+following may serve as a general outline of their history:
+
+Almost the whole of that vast tract of country comprised between the
+Mississippi, the Red River of Lake Winnepeg, the Saskaskawan, and the
+Missouri, is loosely occupied by a great nation whose primitive name is
+Darcota, but who are called Sioux by the French, Sues by the English.
+Their original seats were on the Mississippi, but they have gradually
+spread themselves abroad and become subdivided into numerous tribes. Of
+these, what may be considered as the Darcotas are the Mindawarcarton, or
+Minowakanton, known to the French by the name of the Gens du Lac, or
+People of the Lake. Their residence is on both sides of the Mississippi
+near the falls of St. Anthony, and the probable number of their warriors
+about three hundred. Above them, on the river St. Peter's, is the
+Wahpatone, a smaller band of nearly two hundred men; and still farther
+up the same river below Yellow-wood river are the Wahpatootas or Gens de
+Feuilles, an inferior band of not more than one hundred men; while the
+sources of the St. Peter's are occupied by the Sisatoones, a band
+consisting of about two hundred warriors.
+
+These bands rarely if ever approach the Missouri, which is occupied by
+their kinsmen the Yanktons and the Tetons. The Yanktons are of two
+tribes, those of the plains, or rather of the north, a wandering race of
+about five hundred men, who roam over the plains at the heads of the
+Jacques, the Sioux, and the Red river; and those of the south, who
+possess the country between the Jacques and Sioux rivers and the
+Desmoine. But the bands of Sioux most known on the Missouri are the
+Tetons. The first who are met on ascending the Missouri is the tribe
+called by the French the Tetons of the Boise Brule or Burntwood, who
+reside on both sides of the Missouri, about White and Teton rivers, and
+number two hundred warriors. Above them on the Missouri are the Teton
+Okandandas, a band of one hundred and fifty men living below the
+Chayenne river, between which and the Wetarhoo river is a third band,
+called Teton Minnakenozzo, of nearly two hundred and fifty men; and
+below the Warreconne is the fourth and last tribe of Tetons of about
+three hundred men, and called Teton Saone. Northward of these, between
+the Assiniboin and the Missouri, are two bands of Assiniboins, one on
+Mouse river of about two hundred men, and called Assiniboin Menatopa;
+the other, residing on both sides of White river, called by the French
+Gens de Feuilles, and amounting to two hundred and fifty men. Beyond
+these a band of Assiniboins of four hundred and fifty men, and called
+the Big Devils, wander on the heads of Milk, Porcupine, and Martha's
+rivers; while still farther to the north are seen two bands of the same
+nation, one of five hundred and the other of two hundred, roving on the
+Saskaskawan. Those Assiniboins are recognised by a similarity of
+language, and by tradition as descendents or seceders from the Sioux;
+though often at war are still acknowledged as relations. The Sioux
+themselves, though scattered, meet annually on the Jacques, those on the
+Missouri trading with those on the Mississippi.
+
+
+
+
+                                CHAPTER VI.
+
+     The party increase in the favour of the Mandans--Description of a
+     buffaloe dance--Medicine dance--The fortitude with which the
+     Indians bear the severity of the season--Distress of the party for
+     want of provisions--The great importance of the blacksmith in
+     procuring it--Depredations of the Sioux--The homage paid to the
+     medicine stone--Summary act of justice among the Minnetarees--The
+     process by which the Mandans and Ricaras make beads--Character of
+     the Missouri, of the surrounding country, and of the rivers,
+     creeks, islands, &c.
+
+
+Friday, 28th. The wind continued high last night, the frost severe, and
+the snow drifting in great quantities through the plains.
+
+Saturday, 29th. There was a frost fell last night nearly one quarter of
+an inch in depth, which continued to fall till the sun had gained some
+height: the mercury at sunrise stood at 9° below 0: there were a number
+of Indians at the fort in the course of the day.
+
+Sunday, 30th. The weather was cold, and the thermometer 20° below 0. We
+killed one deer, and yesterday one of the men shot a wolf. The Indians
+brought corn, beans, and squashes, which they very readily gave for
+getting their axes and kettles mended. In their general conduct during
+these visits they are honest, but will occasionally pilfer any small
+article.
+
+Monday, 31. During the night there was a high wind which covered the ice
+with hillocks of mixed sand and snow: the day was however fine, and the
+Indians came in great numbers for the purpose of having their utensils
+repaired.
+
+Tuesday, January 1, 1805. The new year was welcomed by two shot from the
+swivel and a round of small arms. The weather was cloudy but moderate;
+the mercury which at sunrise was at 18°, in the course of the day rose
+to 34° above 0: towards evening it began to rain, and at night we had
+snow, the temperature for which is about 0. In the morning we permitted
+sixteen men with their music to go up to the first village, where they
+delighted the whole tribe with their dances, particularly with the
+movements of one of the Frenchmen who danced on his head. In return they
+presented the dancers with several buffaloe robes and quantities of
+corn. We were desirous of showing this attention to the village, because
+they had received an impression that we had been wanting in regard for
+them, and they had in consequence circulated invidious comparisons
+between us and the northern traders: all these however they declared to
+captain Clarke, who visited them in the course of the morning, were made
+in jest. As captain Clarke was about leaving the village, two of their
+chiefs returned from a mission to the Grosventres or wandering
+Minnetarees. These people were encamped about ten miles above, and while
+there one of the Ahnahaways had stolen a Minnetaree girl: the whole
+nation immediately espoused the quarrel, and one hundred and fifty of
+their warriors were marching down to revenge the insult on the
+Ahnahaways. The chief of that nation took the girl from the ravisher,
+and giving her to the Mandans requested their intercession. The
+messengers went out to meet the warriors, and delivered the young damsel
+into the hands of her countrymen, smoked the pipe of peace with them,
+and were fortunate enough to avert their indignation and induce them to
+return. In the evening some of the men came to the fort and the rest
+slept in the village. Pocapsahe also visited us and brought some meat on
+his wife's back.
+
+Wednesday, January 2. It snowed last night, and during this day the same
+scene of gayety was renewed at the second village, and all the men
+returned in the evening.
+
+Thursday 3. Last night it became very cold, and this morning we had some
+snow: our hunters were sent out for buffaloe, but the game had been
+frightened from the river by the Indians, so that they obtained only
+one: they however killed a hare and a wolf. Among the Indians who
+visited us was a Minnetaree who came to seek his wife: she had been much
+abused and came here for protection, but returned with him; as we had no
+authority to separate those whom even the Mandan rites had united.
+
+Friday 4. The morning was cloudy and warm, the mercury being 28° above
+0: but towards evening the wind changed to northwest, and the weather
+became cold. We sent some hunters down the river, but they killed only
+one buffaloe and a wolf. We received the visit of Kagohami who is very
+friendly, and to whom we gave a hankerchief and two files.
+
+Saturday 5. We had high and boisterous winds last night and this
+morning: the Indians continue to purchase repairs with grain of
+different kinds. In the first village there has been a buffaloe dance
+for the last three nights, which has put them all into commotion, and
+the description which we received from those of the party who visited
+the village and from other sources, is not a little ludicrous: the
+buffaloe dance is an institution originally intended for the benefit of
+the old men, and practised at their suggestion. When buffaloe becomes
+scarce they send a man to harangue the village, declaring that the game
+is far off and that a feast is necessary to bring it back, and if the
+village be disposed a day and place is named for the celebration of it.
+At the appointed hour the old men arrive, and seat themselves
+crosslegged on skins round a fire in the middle of the lodge with a sort
+of doll or small image, dressed like a female, placed before them. The
+young men bring with them a platter of provisions, a pipe of tobacco,
+and their wives, whose dress on the occasion is only a robe or mantle
+loosely thrown round the body. On their arrival each youth selects the
+old man whom he means to distinguish by his favour, and spreads before
+him the provisions, after which he presents the pipe and smokes with
+him. Mox senex vir simulacrum parvæ puellæ ostensit. Tune egrediens
+eætu, jecit effigium solo et superincumbens, senili ardore veneris
+complexit. Hoc est signum. Denique uxor e turba recessit, et jactu
+corporis, fovet amplexus viri solo recubante. Maritus appropinquans
+senex vir dejecto vultu, et honorem et dignitatem ejus conservare
+amplexu uxoris illum oravit. Forsitan imprimis ille refellit; dehine,
+maritus multis precibus, multis lachrymis, et multis donis vehementer
+intercessit. Tune senex amator perculsus miserecordia, tot precibus, tot
+lachrymis, et tot donis, conjugali amplexu submisit. Multum ille
+jactatus est, sed debilis et effoetus senectute, frustra jactatus est.
+Maritus interdum stans juxta guadit multum honore, et ejus dignitati sic
+conservata. Unus nostrum sodalium multum alacrior et potentior
+juventute, hac nocte honorem quartour maritorum custodivit.
+
+Sunday 6. A clear cold morning with high wind: we caught in a trap a
+large gray wolf, and last night obtained in the same way a fox who had
+for some time infested the neighbourhood of the fort. Only a few Indians
+visited us to-day.
+
+Monday 7. The weather was again clear and cold with a high northwest
+wind, and the thermometer at sunrise 22° below 0; the river fell an
+inch. Shahaka the Big White chief dined with us, and gave a connected
+sketch of the country as far as the mountains.
+
+Tuesday 8. The wind was still from the northwest, the day cold, and we
+received few Indians at the fort. Besides the buffaloe dance we have
+just described, there is another called medicine dance, an entertainment
+given by any person desirous of doing honour to his medicine or genius.
+He announces, that on such a day he will sacrifice his horses, or other
+property, and invites the young females of the village to assist in
+rendering homage to his medicine; all the inhabitants may join in the
+solemnity, which is performed in the open plain and by daylight, but the
+dance is reserved for the virgins or at least the unmarried females, who
+disdain the incumbrance or the ornament of dress. The feast is opened
+by devoting the goods of the master of the feast to his medicine, which
+is represented by a head of the animal itself, or by a medicine bag if
+the deity be an invisible being. The young women then begin the dance,
+in the intervals of which each will prostrate herself before the
+assembly to challenge or reward the boldness of the youth, who are often
+tempted by feeling or the hopes of distinction to achieve the adventure.
+
+Wednesday 9. The weather is cold, the thermometer at sunrise 21° below
+0. Kagohami breakfasted with us, and captain Clarke with three or four
+men accompanied him and a party of Indians to hunt, in which they were
+so fortunate as to kill a number of buffaloe: but they were incommoded
+by snow, by high and squally winds, and by extreme cold; several of the
+Indians came to the fort nearly frozen, others are missing, and we are
+uneasy, for one of our men who was separated from the rest during the
+chase has not returned: In the morning,
+
+Thursday 10, however, he came back just as we were sending out five men
+in search of him. The night had been excessively cold, and this morning
+at sunrise the mercury stood at 40° below 0, or 72 below the freezing
+point. He had however, made a fire and kept himself tolerably warm. A
+young Indian, about thirteen years of age, also came in soon after. His
+father who came last night to inquire after him very anxiously, had sent
+him in the afternoon to the fort: he was overtaken by the night, and was
+obliged to sleep on the snow with no covering except a pair of antelope
+skin moccasins and leggings and a buffaloe robe: his feet being frozen
+we put them into cold water, and gave him every attention in our power.
+About the same time an Indian who had also been missing returned to the
+fort, and although his dress was very thin, and he had slept on the snow
+without a fire, he had not suffered the slightest inconvenience. We have
+indeed observed that these Indians support the rigours of the season in
+a way which we had hitherto thought impossible. A more pleasing
+reflection occurred at seeing the warm interest which the situation of
+these two persons had excited in the village, the boy had been a
+prisoner and adopted from charity, yet the distress of the father proved
+that he felt for him the tenderest affection, the man was a person of no
+distinction, yet the whole village was full of anxiety for his safety
+and when they came to us, borrowed a sleigh to bring them home with
+ease, if they survived, or to carry their bodies if they had perished.
+
+Friday 11. We despatched three hunters to join the same number whom we
+had sent below about seven miles to hunt elk. Like that of yesterday the
+weather to-day was cold and clear, the thermometer standing at 38° below
+0. Poscopsahe and Shotahawrora visited us, and past the night at the
+fort.
+
+Saturday 12. The weather continues very cold, the mercury at sunrise
+being 20° below 0. Three of the hunters returned, having killed three
+elk.
+
+Sunday 13. We have a continuation of clear weather, and the cold has
+increased, the mercury having sunk to 34° below 0. Nearly one half of
+the Mandan nation passed down the river to hunt for several days; in
+these excursions men, women and children, with their dogs, all leave the
+village together, and after discovering a spot convenient for the game,
+fix their tents; all the family bear their part in the labour, and the
+game is equally divided among the families of the tribe. When a single
+hunter returns from the chase with more than is necessary for his own
+immediate consumption, the neighbours are entitled by custom to a share
+of it: they do not however ask for it, but send a squaw, who without
+saying any thing, sits down by the door of the lodge till the master
+understands the hint, and gives her gratuitously a part for her family.
+Chaboneau who with one man had gone to some lodges of Minnetarees near
+the Turtle mountain, returned with their faces much frostbitten. They
+had been about ninety miles distant, and procured from the inhabitants
+some meat and grease, with which they loaded the horses. He informs us
+that the agent of the Hudson bay company at that place, had been
+endeavouring to make unfavourable impressions with regard to us on the
+mind of the great chief, and that the N.W. company intend building a
+fort there. The great chief had in consequence spoken slightly of the
+Americans, but said that if we would give him our great flag he would
+come and see us.
+
+Monday 14. The Mandans continue to pass down the river on their hunting
+party, and were joined by six of our men. One of those sent on Thursday
+returned, with information that one of his companions had his feet so
+badly frostbitten that he could not walk home. In their excursion they
+had killed a buffaloe, a wolf, two porcupines and a white hare. The
+weather was more moderate to-day, the mercury being at 16° below 0, and
+the wind from the S.E. we had however some snow, after which it remained
+cloudy.
+
+Tuesday 15. The morning is much warmer than yesterday, and the snow
+begins to melt, though the wind after being for some time from the S.E.
+suddenly shifted to N.W. Between twelve and three o'clock A.M. there was
+a total eclipse of the moon, from which we obtained a part of the
+observation necessary for ascertaining the longitude.
+
+We were visited by four of the most distinguished men of the
+Minnetarees, to whom we showed marked attentions, as we knew that they
+had been taught to entertain strong prejudices against us; these we
+succeeded so well in removing, that when in the morning,
+
+Wednesday 16, about thirty Mandans, among whom six were chiefs came to
+see us, the Minnetarees reproached them with their falsehoods, declaring
+that they were bad men and ought to hide themselves. They had told the
+Minnetarees that we would kill them if they came to the fort, yet on the
+contrary they had spent a night there and been treated with kindness by
+the whites, who had smoked with them and danced for their amusement.
+Kagohami visited us and brought us a little corn, and soon afterwards
+one of the first war chiefs of the Minnetarees came accompanied by his
+squaw, a handsome woman, whom he was desirous we should use during the
+night. He favoured us with a more acceptable present, a draft of the
+Missouri in his manner, and informed us of his intention to go to war in
+the spring against the Snake Indians; we advised him to reflect
+seriously before he committed the peace of his nation to the hazards of
+war; to look back on the numerous nations whom war has destroyed, that
+if he wished his nation to be happy he should cultivate peace and
+intercourse with all his neighbours, by which means they would procure
+more horses, increase in numbers, and that if he went to war he would
+displease his great father the president, and forfeit his protection. We
+added that we had spoken thus to all the tribes whom we had met, that
+they had all opened their ears, and that the president would compel
+those who did not voluntarily listen to his advice. Although a young man
+of only twenty-six years of age, this discourse seemed to strike him. He
+observed that if it would be displeasing to us he would not go to war,
+since he had horses enough, and that he would advise all the nation to
+remain at home, until we had seen the Snake Indians, and discovered
+whether their intentions were pacific. The party who went down with the
+horses for the man who was frostbitten returned, and we are glad to find
+his complaint not serious.
+
+Thursday 17. The day was very windy from the north; the morning clear
+and cold, the thermometer at sunrise being at 0: we had several Indians
+with us.
+
+Friday 18. The weather is fine and moderate. Messrs. Laroche and
+M'Kenzie, two of the N.W. company's traders, visited us with some of the
+Minnetarees. In the afternoon two of our hunters returned, having killed
+four wolves and a blaireau.
+
+Saturday 19. Another cloudy day. The two traders set out on their
+return, and we sent two men with the horses thirty miles below to the
+hunting camp.
+
+Sunday 20. The day fair and cold. A number of Indians visit us with corn
+to exchange for articles, and to pay for repairs to their household
+utensils.
+
+Monday 21. The weather was fine and moderate. The hunters all returned,
+having killed during their absence three elk, four deer, two porcupines,
+a fox and a hare.
+
+Tuesday 22. The cold having moderated and the day pleasant, we attempted
+to cut the boats out of the ice, but at the distance of eight inches
+came to water, under which the ice became three feet thick, so that we
+were obliged to desist.
+
+Wednesday 23. The cold weather returned, the mercury having sunk 2°
+below 0, and the snow fell four inches deep.
+
+Thursday 24. The day was colder than any we have had lately, the
+thermometer being at 12° below 0. The hunters whom we sent out returned
+unsuccessful, and the rest were occupied in cutting wood to make
+charcoal.
+
+Friday 25. The thermometer was at 25° below 0, the Wind from N.W. and
+the day fair, so that the men were employed in preparing coal, and
+cutting the boats out of the ice. A band of Assiniboins headed by their
+chief, called by the French, Son of the Little Calf, have arrived at the
+villages.
+
+Saturday 26. A fine warm day: a number of Indians dine with us: and one
+of our men is attacked with a violent pleurisy.
+
+Sunday 27. Another warm and pleasant day: we again attempted to get the
+boat out of the ice. The man who has the pleurisy was blooded and
+sweated, and we were forced to take off the toes of the young Indian who
+was frostbitten some time since. Our interpreter returned from the
+villages, bringing with him three of Mr. Laroche's horses which he had
+sent in order to keep them out of the way of the Assiniboins, who are
+very much disposed to steal, and who have just returned to their camp.
+
+Monday 28. The weather to-day is clear and cold: we are obliged to
+abandon the plan of cutting the boat through the ice, and therefore made
+another attempt the next day,
+
+Tuesday 29, by heating a quantity of stones so as to warm the water in
+the boat, and thaw the surrounding ice: but in this too we were
+disappointed, as all the stones on being put into the fire cracked into
+pieces: the weather warm and pleasant: the man with the pleurisy is
+recovering.
+
+Wednesday 30. The morning was fair, but afterwards became cloudy. Mr.
+Laroche the trader from the northwest company paid us a visit, in hopes
+of being able to accompany us on our journey westward, but this proposal
+we thought it best to decline.
+
+Thursday 31. It snowed last night, and the morning is cold and
+disagreeable, with a high wind from the northwest: we sent five hunters
+down the river. Another man is taken with the pleurisy.
+
+Friday, February 1. A cold windy day: our hunters returned having killed
+only one deer. One of the Minnetaree war chiefs, a young man named
+Maubuksheahokeah or Seeing Snake, came to see us and procure a war
+hatchet: he also requested that we would suffer him to go to war against
+the Sioux and Ricaras who had killed a Mandan some time ago: this we
+refused for reasons which we explained to him. He acknowledged that we
+were right, and promised to open his ears to our counsels.
+
+Saturday 2. The day is fine: another deer was killed. Mr. Laroche who
+has been very anxious to go with us left the fort to-day, and one of the
+squaws of the Minnetaree interpreter is taken ill.
+
+Sunday 3. The weather is again pleasant: disappointed in all our efforts
+to get the boats free, we occupied ourselves in making iron spikes so as
+to prize them up by means of long poles.
+
+Monday 4. The morning fair and cold, the mercury at sunrise being 18°
+below 0, and the wind from the northwest. The stock of meat which we
+had procured in November and December being now nearly exhausted, it
+became necessary to renew our supply; captain Clarke therefore took
+eighteen men, and with two sleighs and three horses descended the river
+for the purpose of hunting, as the buffaloe has disappeared from our
+neighbourhood, and the Indians are themselves suffering for want of
+meat. Two deer were killed to-day but they were very lean.
+
+Tuesday 5. A pleasant fair morning with the wind from northwest: a
+number of the Indians come with corn for the blacksmith, who being now
+provided with coal has become one of our greatest resources for
+procuring grain. They seem particularly attached to a battle axe, of a
+very inconvenient figure: it is made wholly of iron, the blade extremely
+thin, and from seven to nine inches long; it is sharp at the point and
+five or six inches on each side, whence they converge towards the eye,
+which is circular and about an inch in diameter, the blade itself being
+not more than an inch wide, the handle is straight, and twelve or
+fifteen inches long; the whole weighing about a pound. By way of
+ornament, the blade is perforated with several circular holes. The
+length of the blade compared with the shortness of the handle render it
+a weapon of very little strength, particularly as it is always used on
+horseback: there is still however another form which is even worse, the
+same sort of handle being fixed to a blade resembling an espontoon.
+
+Wednesday, February 6. The morning was fair and pleasant, the wind N.W.
+A number of Indian chiefs visited us and withdrew after we had smoked
+with them contrary to their custom, for after being once introduced into
+our apartment they are fond of lounging about during the remainder of
+the day. One of the men killed three antelopes. Our blacksmith has his
+time completely occupied, so great is the demand for utensils of
+different kinds. The Indians are particularly fond of sheet iron, out of
+which they form points for arrows and instruments for scraping hides,
+and when the blacksmith cut up an old cambouse of that metal, we
+obtained for every piece of four inches square seven or eight gallons of
+corn from the Indians, who were delighted at the exchange.
+
+Thursday 7. The morning was fair and much warmer than for some days, the
+thermometer being at 18° above 0, and the wind from the S.E. A number of
+Indians continue to visit us; but learning that the interpreter's squaws
+had been accustomed to unbar the gate during the night, we ordered a
+lock put on it, and that no Indian should remain in the fort all night,
+nor any person admitted during the hours when the gate is closed, that
+is from sunset to sunrise.
+
+Friday 8. A fair pleasant morning, with S.E. winds. Pocopsahe came down
+to the fort with a bow, and apologized for his not having finished a
+shield which he had promised captain Lewis, and which the weather had
+prevented him from completing. This chief possesses more firmness,
+intelligence, and integrity, than any Indian of this country, and he
+might be rendered highly serviceable in our attempts to civilize the
+nation. He mentioned that the Mandans are very much in want of meat, and
+that he himself had not tasted any for several days. To this distress
+they are often reduced by their own improvidence, or by their unhappy
+situation. Their principal article of food is buffaloe-meat, their corn,
+beans, and other grain being reserved for summer, or as a last resource
+against what they constantly dread, an attack from the Sioux, who drive
+off the game and confine them to their villages. The same fear too
+prevents their going out to hunt in small parties to relieve their
+occasional wants, so that the buffaloe is generally obtained in large
+quantities and wasted by carelessness.
+
+Saturday 9. The morning was fair and pleasant, the wind from the S.E.
+Mr. M'Kenzie from the N.W. company establishment visited us.
+
+Sunday 10. A slight snow fell in the course of the night, the morning
+was cloudy, and the northwest wind blew so high that although the
+thermometer was 18° above 0, the day was cooler than yesterday, when it
+was only 10° above the same point. Mr. M'Kenzie left us, and Chaboneau
+returned with information that our horses loaded with meat were below,
+but could not cross the ice not being shod.
+
+Monday 11. We sent down a party with sleds, to relieve the horses from
+their loads; the weather fair and cold, with a N.W. wind. About five
+o'clock one of the wives of Chaboneau was delivered of a boy; this being
+her first child she was suffering considerable, when Mr. Jessaume told
+captain Lewis that he had frequently administered to persons in her
+situation, a small dose of the rattle of the rattlesnake which had never
+failed to hasten the delivery. Having some of the rattle, captain Lewis
+gave it to Mr. Jessaume who crumbled two of the rings of it between his
+fingers, and mixing it with a small quantity of water gave it to her.
+What effect it may really have had it might be difficult to determine,
+but captain Lewis was informed that she had not taken it more than ten
+minutes before the delivery took place.
+
+Tuesday 12. The morning is fair though cold, the mercury being 14° below
+the wind from the S.E. About four o'clock the horses were brought in
+much fatigued; on giving them meal bran moistened with water they would
+not eat it, but preferred the bark of the cottonwood, which as is
+already observed forms their principal food during the winter. The
+horses of the Mandans are so often stolen by the Sioux, Ricaras, and
+Assiniboins, that the invariable rule now is to put the horses every
+night in the same lodge with the family. In the summer they ramble in
+the plains in the vicinity of the camp, and feed on the grass, but
+during cold weather the squaws cut down the cottonwood trees as they are
+wanted, and the horses feed on the boughs and bark of the tender
+branches, which are also brought into the lodges at night and placed
+near them. These animals are very severely treated; for whole days they
+are pursuing the buffaloe, or burdened with the fruits of the chase,
+during which they scarcely ever taste food, and at night return to a
+scanty allowance of wood; yet the spirit of this valuable animal
+sustains him through all these difficulties, and he is rarely deficient
+either in flesh or vigour.
+
+Wednesday 13. The morning was cloudy, the thermometer at 2° below 0, the
+wind from the southeast. Captain Clarke returned last evening with all
+his hunting party: during their excursion they had killed forty deer,
+three buffaloe, and sixteen elk; but most of the game was too lean for
+use, and the wolves, who regard whatever lies out at night as their own,
+had appropriated a large part of it: when he left the fort on the 4th
+instant, he descended on the ice twenty-two miles to New Mandan island,
+near some of their old villages, and encamped, having killed nothing,
+and therefore without food for the night.
+
+Early on the 5th, the hunters went out and killed two buffaloe and a
+deer, but the last only could be used, the others being too lean. After
+breakfast they proceeded down to an Indian lodge and hunted during the
+day: the next morning, 6th, they encamped forty-four miles from the fort
+on a sand point near the mouth of a creek on the southwest side, which
+they call Hunting creek, and during this and the following day hunted
+through all the adjoining plains, with much success, having killed a
+number of deer and elk. On the 8th, the best of the meat was sent with
+the horses to the fort, and such parts of the remainder as were fit for
+use were brought to a point of the river three miles below, and after
+the bones were taken out, secured in pens built of logs, so as to keep
+off the wolves, ravens and magpies, who are very numerous and constantly
+disappoint the hunter of his prey: they then went to the low grounds
+near the Chisshetaw river where they encamped, but saw nothing except
+some wolves on the hills, and a number of buffaloe too poor to be worth
+hunting. The next morning 9th, as there was no game and it would have
+been inconvenient to send it back sixty miles to the fort, they returned
+up the river, and for three days hunted along the banks and plains, and
+reached the fort in the evening of the twelfth much fatigued, having
+walked thirty miles that day on the ice and through the snow in many
+places knee deep, the moccasins too being nearly worn out: the only game
+which they saw besides what is mentioned, was some growse on the
+sandbars in the river.
+
+Thursday 14. Last night the snow fell three inches deep; the day was,
+however, fine. Four men were despatched with sleds and three horses to
+bring up the meat which had been collected by the hunters. They returned
+however, with intelligence that about twenty-one miles below the fort a
+party of upwards of one hundred men, whom they supposed to be Sioux,
+rushed on them, cut the traces of the sleds, and carried off two of the
+horses, the third being given up by intercession of an Indian who seemed
+to possess some authority over them; they also took away two of the
+men's knifes, and a tomahawk, which last however they returned. We sent
+up to the Mandans to inform them of it, and to know whether any of them
+would join a party which intended to pursue the robbers in the morning.
+About twelve o'clock two of their chiefs came down and said that all
+their young men were out hunting, and that there were few guns in the
+village. Several Indians however, armed some with bows and arrows, some
+with spears and battle-axes, and two with fusils, accompanied captain
+Lewis, who set out,
+
+Friday 15, at sunrise with twenty-four men. The morning was fine and
+cool, the thermometer being at 16° below 0. In the course of the day one
+of the Mandan chiefs returned from captain Lewis's party, his eye-sight
+having become so bad that he could not proceed. At this season of the
+year the reflexion from the ice and snow is so intense as to occasion
+almost total blindness. This complaint is very common, and the general
+remedy is to sweat the part affected by holding the face over a hot
+stone, and receiving the fumes from snow thrown on it. A large red fox
+was killed to-day.
+
+Saturday 16. The morning was warm, mercury at 32° above 0, the weather
+cloudy: several of the Indians who went with captain Lewis returned, as
+did also one of our men, whose feet had been frostbitten.
+
+Sunday 17. The weather continued as yesterday, though in the afternoon
+it became fair. Shotawhorora and his son came to see us, with about
+thirty pounds of dried buffaloe meat and some tallow.
+
+Monday 18. The morning was cloudy with some snow, but in the latter part
+of the day it cleared up. Mr. M'Kenzie who had spent yesterday at the
+fort now left us. Our stock of meat is exhausted, so that we must
+confine ourselves to vegetable diet, at least till the return of the
+party: for this, however, we are at no loss, since both on this and the
+following day,
+
+Tuesday 19, our blacksmith got large quantities of corn from the Indians
+who came in great numbers to see us. The weather was fair and warm, the
+wind from the south.
+
+Wednesday, 20th. The day was delightfully fine; the mercury being at
+sunrise 2° and in the course of the day 22° above 0, the wind southerly.
+Kagohami came down to see us early: his village is afflicted by the
+death of one of their eldest men, who from his account to us must have
+seen one hundred and twenty winters. Just as he was dying, he requested
+his grandchildren to dress him in his best robe when he was dead, and
+then carry him on a hill and seat him on a stone, with his face down the
+river towards their old villages, that he might go straight to his
+brother who had passed before him to the ancient village under ground.
+We have seen a number of Mandans who have lived to a great age; chiefly
+however the men, whose robust exercises fortify the body, while the
+laborious occupations of the women shorten their existence.
+
+Thursday 21. We had a continuation of the same pleasant weather. Oheenaw
+and Shahaka came down to see us, and mentioned that several of their
+countrymen had gone to consult their medicine stone as to the prospects
+of the following year. This medicine stone is the great oracle of the
+Mandans, and whatever it announces is believed with implicit confidence.
+Every spring, and on some occasions during the summer, a deputation
+visits the sacred spot, where there is a thick porous stone twenty-feet
+in circumference, with a smooth surface. Having reached the place the
+ceremony of smoking to it is performed by the deputies, who alternately
+take a whiff themselves and then present the pipe to the stone; after
+this they retire to an adjoining wood for the night, during which it may
+be safely presumed that all the embassy do not sleep; and in the morning
+they read the destinies of the nation in the white marks on the stone,
+which those who made them are at no loss to decypher. The Minnetarees
+have a stone of a similar kind, which has the same qualities and the
+same influence over the nation. Captain Lewis returned from his
+excursion in pursuit of the Indians. On reaching the place where the
+Sioux had stolen our horses, they found only one sled, and several pair
+of moccasins which were recognised to be those of the Sioux. The party
+then followed the Indian tracks till they reached two old lodges where
+they slept, and the next morning pursued the course of the river till
+they reached some Indian camps, where captain Clarke passed the night
+some time ago, and which the Sioux had now set on fire, leaving a little
+corn near the place in order to induce a belief that they were Ricaras.
+From this point the Sioux tracks left the river abruptly and crossed
+into the plains; but perceiving that there was no chance of overtaking
+them, captain Lewis went down to the pen where captain Clarke had left
+some meat, which he found untouched by the Indians, and then hunted in
+the low grounds on the river, till he returned with about three thousand
+pounds of meat, some drawn in a sled by fifteen of the men, and the rest
+on horseback; having killed thirty-six deer, fourteen elk, and one wolf.
+
+Friday, 22nd. The morning was cloudy and a little snow fell, but in the
+afternoon the weather became fair. We were visited by a number of
+Indians, among whom was Shotawhorora, a chief of much consideration
+among the Mandan, although by birth a Ricara.
+
+Saturday, 23d. The day is warm and pleasant. Having worked industriously
+yesterday and all this morning we were enabled to disengage one of the
+periogues and haul it on shore, and also nearly to cut out the second.
+The father of the boy whose foot had been so badly frozen, and whom we
+had now cured, came to-day and carried him home in a sleigh.
+
+Sunday, 24th. The weather is again fine. We succeeded in loosening the
+second periogue and barge, though we found a leak in the latter. The
+whole of the next day,
+
+Monday, 25th, we were occupied in drawing up the boats on the bank: the
+smallest one we carried there with no difficulty, but the barge was too
+heavy for our elk-skin ropes which constantly broke. We were visited by
+Orupsehara, or Black Moccasin, and several other chiefs, who brought us
+presents of meat on the backs of their squaws, and one of the
+Minnetarees requested and obtained permission for himself and his two
+wives to remain all night in the fort. The day was exceedingly pleasant.
+
+Tuesday 26. The weather is again fine. By great labour during the day we
+got all the boats on the bank by sunset, an operation which attracted a
+great number of Indians to the fort.
+
+Wednesday 27. The weather continues fine. All of us employed in
+preparing tools to build boats for our voyage, as we find that small
+periogues will be much more convenient than the barge in ascending the
+Missouri.
+
+Thursday 28. The day is clear and pleasant. Sixteen men were sent out to
+examine the country for trees suitable for boats, and were successful in
+finding them. Two of the N.W. company traders arrived with letters; they
+had likewise a root which is used for the cure of persons bitten by mad
+dogs, snakes, and other venomous animals: it is found on high grounds
+and the sides of hills, and the mode of using it is to scarify the
+wound, and apply to it an inch or more of the chewed or pounded root,
+which is to be renewed twice a day; the patient must not however chew or
+swallow any of the root, as an inward application might be rather
+injurious than beneficial.
+
+Mr. Gravelines with two Frenchmen and two Indians arrived from the
+Ricara nation, with letters from Mr. Anthony Tabeau. This last gentleman
+informs us that the Ricaras express their determination to follow our
+advice, and to remain at peace with the Mandans and Minnetarees, whom
+they are desirous of visiting; they also wish to know whether these
+nations would permit the Ricaras to settle near them, and form a league
+against their common enemies the Sioux. On mentioning this to the
+Mandans they agreed to it, observing that they always desired to
+cultivate friendship with the Ricaras, and that the Ahnahaways and
+Minnetarees have the same friendly views.
+
+Mr. Gravelines states that the band of Tetons whom we had seen was well
+disposed to us, owing to the influence of their chief the Black
+Buffaloe; but that the three upper bands of Tetons, with the Sisatoons,
+and the Yanktons of the north, mean soon to attack the Indians in this
+quarter, with a resolution to put to death every white man they
+encounter. Moreover, that Mr. Cameron of St. Peter's has armed the Sioux
+against the Chippeways, who have lately put to death three of his men.
+The men who had stolen our horses we found to be all Sioux, who after
+committing the outrage went to the Ricara villages, where they said that
+they had hesitated about killing our men who were with the horses, but
+that in future they would put to death any of us they could, as we were
+bad medicines and deserved to be killed. The Ricaras were displeased at
+their conduct and refused to give them any thing to eat, which is
+deemed the greatest act of hostility short of actual violence.
+
+Friday, March 1. The day is fine, and the whole party is engaged, some
+in making ropes and periogues, others in burning coal, and making battle
+axes to sell for corn.
+
+Saturday 2. Mr. Laroche one of the N.W. company's traders has just
+arrived with merchandise from the British establishments on the
+Assiniboin. The day is fine, and the river begins to break up in some
+places, the mercury being between 28° and 36° above 0, and the wind from
+the N.E. We were visited by several Indians.
+
+Sunday 3. The weather pleasant, the wind from the E. with clouds; in the
+afternoon the clouds disappeared and the wind came from the N.W. The men
+are all employed in preparing the boats; we are visited by Poscapsahe
+and several other Indians with corn. A flock of ducks passed up the
+river to-day.
+
+Monday 4. A cloudy morning with N.W. wind, the latter part of the day
+clear. We had again some Indian visitors with a small present of meat.
+The Assiniboins, who a few days since visited the Mandans, returned, and
+attempted to take horses from the Minnetarees, who fired on them; a
+circumstance which may occasion some disturbance between the two
+nations.
+
+Tuesday 5. About four o'clock in the morning there was a slight fall of
+snow, but the day became clear and pleasant with the mercury 40° above
+0. We sent down an Indian and a Frenchman to the Ricara villages with a
+letter to Mr. Tabeau.
+
+Wednesday 6. The day was cloudy and smoky in consequence of the burning
+of the plains by the Minnetarees; they have set all the neighbouring
+country on fire in order to obtain an early crop of grass which may
+answer for the consumption of their horses, and also as an inducement
+for the buffaloe and other game to visit it. The horses stolen two days
+ago by the Assiniboins have been returned to the Minnetarees. Ohhaw
+second chief of the lower Minnetaree village came to see us. The river
+rose a little and overran the ice, so as to render the crossing
+difficult.
+
+Thursday, 7th. The day was somewhat cloudy, and colder than usual; the
+wind from the northeast. Shotawhorora visited us with a sick child, to
+whom some medicine was administered. There were also other Indians who
+brought corn and dried buffaloe meat in exchange for blacksmith's work.
+
+Friday 8. The day cold and fair with a high easterly wind: we were
+visited by two Indians who gave us an account of the country and people
+near the Rocky mountains where they had been.
+
+Saturday 9. The morning cloudy and cool, the wind from the north. The
+grand chief of the Minnetarees, who is called by the French Le Borgne,
+from his having but one eye, came down for the first time to the fort.
+He was received with much attention, two guns were fired in honour of
+his arrival, the curiosities were exhibited to him, and as he said that
+he had not received the presents which we had sent to him on his
+arrival, we again gave him a flag, a medal, shirt, armbraces and the
+usual presents on such occasions, with all which he was much pleased. In
+the course of the conversation, the chief observed that some foolish
+young men of his nation had told him there was a person among us who was
+quite black, and he wished to know if it could be true. We assured him
+that it was true, and sent for York: the Borgne was very much surprised
+at his appearance, examined him closely, and spit on his finger and
+rubbed the skin in order to wash off the paint; nor was it until the
+negro uncovered his head, and showed his short hair, that the Borgne
+could be persuaded that he was not a painted white man.
+
+Sunday 10. A cold windy day. Tetuckopinreha, chief of the Ahnahaways,
+and the Minnetaree chief Ompsehara, passed the day with us, and the
+former remained during the night. We had occasion to see an instance of
+the summary justice of the Indians: a young Minnetaree had carried off
+the daughter of Cagonomokshe, the Raven Man, second chief of the upper
+village of the Mandans; the father went to the village and found his
+daughter, whom he brought home, and took with him a horse belonging to
+the offender: this reprisal satisfied the vengeance of the father and of
+the nation, as the young man would not dare to reclaim his horse, which
+from that time became the property of the injured party. The stealing of
+young women is one of the most common offenses against the police of the
+village, and the punishment of it always measured by the power or the
+passions of the kindred of the female. A voluntary elopement is of
+course more rigorously chastised. One of the wives of the Borgne
+deserted him in favour of a man who had been her lover before the
+marriage, and who after some time left her, and she was obliged to
+return to her father's house. As soon as he heard it the Borgne walked
+there and found her sitting near the fire: without noticing his wife, he
+began to smoke with the father; when they were joined by the old men of
+the village, who knowing his temper had followed in hopes of appeasing
+him. He continued to smoke quietly with them, till rising to return, he
+took his wife by the hair, led her as far as the door, and with a single
+stroke of his tomahawk put her to death before her father's eyes: then
+turning fiercely upon the spectators, he said that if any of her
+relations wished to avenge her, they might always find him at his lodge;
+but the fate of the woman had not sufficient interest to excite the
+vengeance of the family. The caprice or the generosity of the same chief
+gave a very different result to a similar incident which occurred some
+time afterwards. Another of his wives eloped with a young man, who not
+being able to support her as she wished they both returned to the
+village, and she presented herself before the husband, supplicating his
+pardon for her conduct: the Borgne sent for the lover: at the moment
+when the youth expected that he would be put to death, the chief mildly
+asked them if they still preserved their affection for each other; and
+on their declaring that want, and not a change of affection had induced
+them to return, he gave up his wife to her lover, with the liberal
+present of three horses, and restored them both to his favour.
+
+Monday 11. The weather was cloudy in the morning and a little snow fell,
+the wind then shifted from southeast to northwest and the day became
+fair. It snowed again in the evening, but the next day,
+
+Tuesday 12, was fair with the wind from the northwest.
+
+Wednesday 13. We had a fine day, and a southwest wind. Mr. M'Kenzie came
+to see us, as did also many Indians who are so anxious for battle-axes
+that our smiths have not a moment's leisure, and procure us an abundance
+of corn. The river rose a little to-day, and so continued.
+
+Thursday 14. The wind being from the west, and the day fine, the whole
+party were employed in building boats and in shelling corn.
+
+Friday 15. The day is clear, pleasant and warm. We take advantage of the
+fine weather to hang all our Indian presents and other articles out to
+dry before our departure.
+
+Saturday 16. The weather is cloudy, the wind from the southeast. A Mr.
+Garrow, a Frenchman who has resided a long time among the Ricaras and
+Mandans, explained to us the mode in which they make their large beads,
+an art which they are said to have derived from some prisoners of the
+Snake Indian nation, and the knowledge of which is a secret even now
+confined to a few among the Mandans and Ricaras: the process is as
+follows: glass of different colours is first pounded fine and washed,
+till each kind, which is kept separate, ceases to stain the water thrown
+over it: some well seasoned clay, mixed with a sufficient quantity of
+sand to prevent its becoming very hard when exposed to heat, and reduced
+by water to the consistency of dough, is then rolled on the palm of the
+hand, till it becomes of the thickness wanted for the hole in the bead;
+these sticks of clay are placed upright, each on a little pedestal or
+ball of the same material about an ounce in weight, and distributed over
+a small earthen platter, which is laid on the fire for a few minutes,
+when they are taken off to cool: with a little paddle or shovel three or
+four inches long and sharpened at the end of the handle, the wet pounded
+glass is placed in the palm of the hand: the beads are made of an oblong
+form wrapped in a cylindrical form round the stick of clay which is
+laid crosswise over it, and gently rolled backwards and forwards till
+it becomes perfectly smooth. If it be desired to introduce any other
+colour, the surface of the bead is perforated with the pointed end of
+the paddle and the cavity filled with pounded glass of that colour: the
+sticks with the string of beads are then replaced on their pedestals,
+and the platter deposited on burning coals or hot embers: over the
+platter an earthern pot containing about three gallons, with a mouth
+large enough to cover the platter, is reversed, being completely closed
+except a small aperture at the top, through which are watched the bead:
+a quantity of old dried wood formed into a sort of dough or paste is
+placed round the pot so as almost to cover it, and afterwards set on
+fire: the manufacturer then looks through the small hole in the pot,
+till he sees the beads assume a deep red colour, to which succeeds a
+paler or whitish red, or they become pointed at the upper extremity; on
+which the fire is removed and the pot suffered to cool gradually: at
+length it is removed, the beads taken out, the clay in the hollow of
+them picked out with an awl or needle, and it is then fit for use. The
+beads thus formed are in great demand among the Indians, and used as
+pendants to their ears and hair, and are sometimes worn round the neck.
+
+Sunday 17. A windy but clear and pleasant day, the river rising a little
+and open in several places. Our Minnetaree interpreter Chaboneau, whom
+we intended taking with us to the Pacific, had some days ago been worked
+upon by the British traders, and appeared unwilling to accompany us,
+except on certain terms; such as his not being subject to our orders,
+and do duty, or to return whenever he chose. As we saw clearly the
+source of his hesitation, and knew that it was intended as an obstacle
+to our views, we told him that the terms were inadmissible, and that we
+could dispense with his services: he had accordingly left us with some
+displeasure. Since then he had made an advance towards joining us, which
+we showed no anxiety to meet; but this morning he sent an apology for
+his improper conduct, and agreed to go with us and perform the same
+duties as the rest of the corps; we therefore took him again into our
+service.
+
+Monday 18. The weather was cold and cloudy, the wind from the north. We
+were engaged in packing up the goods into eight divisions, so as to
+preserve a portion of each in case of accident. We hear that the Sioux
+have lately attacked a party of Assiniboins and Knistenaux, near the
+Assiniboin river, and killed fifty of them.
+
+Tuesday 19. Some snow fell last night, and this morning was cold, windy,
+and cloudy. Shahaka and Kagohami came down to see us, as did another
+Indian with a sick child, to whom we gave some medicine. There appears
+to be an approaching war, as two parties have already gone from the
+Minnetarees, and a third is preparing.
+
+Wednesday 20. The morning was cold and cloudy, the wind high from the
+north, but the afternoon was pleasant. The canoes being finished, four
+of them were carried down to the river, at the distance of a mile and a
+half from where they were constructed.
+
+Thursday 20. The remaining periogues were hauled to the same place, and
+all the men except three, who were left to watch them returned to the
+fort. On his way down, which was about six miles, captain Clarke passed
+along the points of the high hills, where he saw large quantities of
+pumicestone on the foot, sides and tops of the hills, which had every
+appearance of having been at some period on fire. He collected specimens
+of the stone itself, the pumicestone, and the hard earth; and on being
+put into the furnace the hard earth melted and glazed, the pumicestone
+melted, and the hardstone became a pumicestone glazed.
+
+
+
+
+                               CHAPTER VII.
+
+     Indian method of attacking the buffaloe on the ice--An enumeration
+     of the presents sent to the president of the United States--The
+     party are visited by a Ricara chief--They leave their encampment,
+     and proceed on their journey--description of the Little
+     Missouri--Some account of the Assiniboins--Their mode of burying
+     the dead--Whiteearth river described--Great quantity of salt
+     discovered on its banks--Yellowstone river described--A particular
+     account of the country at the confluence of the Yellowstone and
+     Missouri--Description of the Missouri, the surrounding country, and
+     of the rivers, creeks, islands, &c.
+
+
+Friday 22. This was a clear pleasant day, with the wind from the S.S.W.
+We were visited by the second chief of the Minnetarees, to whom we gave
+a medal and some presents, accompanied by a speech. Mr. M'Kenzie and Mr.
+Laroche also came to see us. They all took their leave next day.
+
+Saturday 23. Soon after their departure, a brother of the Borgne with
+other Indians came to the fort. The weather was fine, but in the evening
+we had the first rain that has fallen during the winter.
+
+Sunday 24. The morning cloudy, but the afternoon fair, the wind from the
+N.E. We are employed in preparing for our journey. This evening swans
+and wild geese flew towards the N.E.
+
+Monday 25. A fine day, the wind S.W. The river rose nine inches, and the
+ice began breaking away in several places, so as to endanger our canoes
+which we are hauling down to the fort.
+
+Tuesday 26. The river rose only half an inch, and being choaked up with
+ice near the fort, did not begin to run till towards evening. This day
+is clear and pleasant.
+
+Wednesday 27. The wind is still high from the S.W.: the ice which is
+ocasionally stopped for a few hours is then thrown over shallow
+sandbars when the river runs. We had all our canoes brought down, and
+were obliged to cauk and pitch very attentively the cracks so common in
+cottonwood.
+
+Thursday 28. The day is fair. Some obstacle above has prevented the ice
+from running. Our canoes are now nearly ready, and we expect to set out
+as soon as the river is sufficiently clear to permit us to pass.
+
+Friday 29. The weather clear, and the wind from N.W. The obstruction
+above gave way this morning, and the ice came down in great quantities;
+the river having fallen eleven inches in the course of the last
+twenty-four hours. We have had few Indians at the fort for the last
+three or four days, as they are now busy in catching the floating
+buffaloe. Every spring as the river is breaking up the surrounding
+plains are set on fire, and the buffaloe tempted to cross the river in
+search of the fresh grass which immediately succeeds to the burning: on
+their way they are often insulated on a large cake or mass of ice, which
+floats down the river: the Indians now select the most favourable points
+for attack, and as the buffaloe approaches dart with astonishing agility
+across the trembling ice, sometimes pressing lightly a cake of not more
+than two feet square: the animal is of course unsteady, and his
+footsteps insecure on this new element, so that he can make but little
+resistance, and the hunter, who has given him his death wound, paddles
+his icy boat to the shore and secures his prey.
+
+Saturday 30. The day was clear and pleasant, the wind N.W. and the ice
+running in great quantities. All our Indian presents were again exposed
+to the air, and the barge made ready to descend the Missouri.
+
+Monday 31. Early this morning it rained, and the weather continued
+cloudy during the day; the river rose nine inches, the ice not running
+so much as yesterday. Several flocks of geese and ducks fly up the
+river.
+
+Monday, April 1, 1805. This morning there was a thunder storm,
+accompanied with large hail, to which succeeded rain for about half an
+hour. We availed ourselves of this interval to get all the boats in the
+water. At four o'clock P.M. it began to rain a second time, and
+continued till twelve at night. With the exception of a few drops at two
+or three different times, this is the first rain we have had since the
+15th of October last.
+
+Tuesday 2. The wind was high last night and this morning from N.W. and
+the weather continued cloudy. The Mandans killed yesterday twenty-one
+elk, about fifteen miles below, but they were so poor as to be scarcely
+fit for use.
+
+Wednesday 3. The weather is pleasant, though there was a white frost and
+some ice on the edge of the water. We were all engaged in packing up our
+baggage and merchandize.
+
+Thursday 4. The day is clear and pleasant, though the wind is high from
+N.W. We now packed up in different boxes a variety of articles for the
+president, which we shall send in the barge. They consisted of a stuffed
+male and female antelope with their skeletons, a weasel, three squirrels
+from the Rocky mountains, the skeleton of the prairie wolf, those of the
+white and gray hare, a male and female blaireau, or burrowing dog of the
+prairie, with a skeleton of the female, two burrowing squirrels, a white
+weasel, and the skin of the louservia, the horns of the mountain ram, or
+big-horn, a pair of large elk horns, the horns and tail of the
+black-tailed deer, and a variety of skins, such as those of the red fox,
+white hare, martin, yellow bear obtained from the Sioux; also, a number
+of articles of Indian dress, among which was a buffaloe robe,
+representing a battle fought about eight years since between the Sioux
+and Ricaras against the Mandans and Minnetarees, in which the combatants
+are represented on horseback. It has of late years excited much
+discussion to ascertain the period when the art of painting was first
+discovered: how hopeless all researches of this kind are, is evident
+from the foregoing fact. It is indebted for its origin to one of the
+strongest passions of the human heart; a wish to preserve the features
+of a departed friend, or the memory of some glorious exploit: this
+inherits equally the bosoms of all men either civilized or savage. Such
+sketches, rude and imperfect as they are, delineate the predominant
+character of the savage nations. If they are peaceable and inoffensive,
+the drawings usually consist of local scenery, and their favourite
+diversions. If the band are rude and ferocious, we observe tomahawks,
+scalpingknives, bows, arrows, and all the engines of destruction. A
+Mandan bow and quiver of arrows; also some Ricara tobacco-seed and an
+ear of Mandan corn; to these were added a box of plants, another of
+insects, and three cases containing a burrowing squirrel; a prairie hen,
+and four magpies, all alive.
+
+Friday, 5th. Fair and pleasant, but the wind high from the northwest: we
+were visited by a number of Mandans, and are occupied in loading our
+boats in order to proceed on our journey.
+
+Saturday, 6th. Another fine day with a gentle breeze from the south. The
+Mandans continue to come to the fort; and in the course of the day
+informed us of the arrival of a party of Ricaras on the other side of
+the river. We sent our interpreter to inquire into their reason for
+coming; and in the morning,
+
+Sunday, 7th, he returned with a Ricara chief and three of his nation.
+The chief, whose name is Kagohweto, or Brave Raven, brought a letter
+from Mr. Tabeau, mentioning the wish of the grand chiefs of the Ricaras
+to visit the president, and requesting permission for himself and four
+men to join our boat when it descends; to which we consented, as it will
+then be manned with fifteen hands and be able to defend itself against
+the Sioux. After presenting the letter, he told us that he was sent with
+ten warriors by his nation to arrange their settling near the Mandans
+and Minnetarees, whom they wished to join; that he considered all the
+neighboring nations friendly except the Sioux, whose persecution they
+would no longer withstand, and whom they hoped to repel by uniting with
+the tribes in this quarter: he added that the Ricaras intended to follow
+our advice and live in peace with all nations, and requested that we
+would speak in their favour to the Assiniboin Indians. This we willingly
+promised to do, and assured them that their great father would protect
+them and no longer suffer the Sioux to have good guns, or to injure his
+dutiful children. We then gave him a small medal, a certificate of his
+good conduct, a carrot of tobacco, and some wampum, with which he
+departed for the Mandan village well satisfied with his reception.
+Having made all our arrangements, we left the fort about five o'clock in
+the afternoon. The party now consisted of thirty-two persons. Besides
+ourselves were serjeants John Ordway, Nathaniel Pryor, and Patrick Gass:
+the privates were William Bratton, John Colter, John Collins, Peter
+Cruzatte, Robert Frazier, Reuben Fields, Joseph Fields, George Gibson,
+Silas Goodrich, Hugh Hall, Thomas P. Howard, Baptiste Lapage, Francis
+Labiche, Hugh M'Neal, John Potts, John Shields, George Shannon, John B.
+Thompson, William Werner, Alexander Willard, Richard Windsor, Joseph
+Whitehouse, Peter Wiser, and captain Clarke's black servant York. The
+two interpreters, were George Drewyer and Toussaint Chaboneau. The wife
+of Chaboneau also accompanied us with her young child, and we hope may
+be useful as an interpreter among the Snake Indians. She was herself one
+of that tribe, but having been taken in war by the Minnetarees, by whom
+she was sold as a slave to Chaboneau, who brought her up and afterwards
+married her. One of the Mandans likewise embarked with us, in order to
+go to the Snake Indians and obtain a peace with them for his countrymen.
+All this party with the baggage was stowed in six small canoes and two
+large periogues. We left the fort with fair pleasant weather though the
+northwest wind was high, and after making about four miles encamped on
+the north side of the Missouri, nearly opposite the first Mandan
+village. At the same time that we took our departure, our barge manned
+with seven soldiers, two Frenchmen, and Mr. Gravelines as pilot, sailed
+for the United States loaded with our presents and despatches.
+
+Monday, 8th. The day was clear and cool, the wind from the northwest, so
+that we travelled slowly. After breakfasting at the second Mandan
+village we passed the Mahaha at the mouth of Knife river, a handsome
+stream about eighty yards wide. Beyond this we reached the island which
+captain Clarke had visited on the 30th October. This island has timber
+as well as the lowlands on the north, but its distance from the water
+had prevented our encamping there during the winter. From the head of
+this island we made three and a half miles to a point of wood on the
+north, passing a high bluff on the south, and having come about fourteen
+miles. In the course of the day one of our boats filled and was near
+sinking; we however saved her with the loss of a little biscuit and
+powder.
+
+Tuesday, April 9. We set off as soon as it was light, and proceeded five
+miles to breakfast, passing a low ground on the south, covered with
+groves of cottonwood timber. At the distance of six miles, we reached on
+the north a hunting camp of Minnetarees consisting of thirty lodges, and
+built in the usual form of earth and timber. Two miles and a quarter
+farther, comes in on the same side Miry creek, a small stream about ten
+yards wide, which, rising in some lakes near the Mouse river, passes
+through beautiful level fertile plains without timber in a direction
+nearly southwest; the banks near its entrance being steep, and rugged on
+both sides of the Missouri. Three miles above this creek we came to a
+hunting party of Minnetarees, who had prepared a park or inclosure and
+were waiting the return of the antelope: this animal, which in the
+autumn retires for food and shelter to the Black mountains during the
+winter, recross the river at this season of the year, and spread
+themselves through the plains on the north of the Missouri. We halted
+and smoked a short time with them, and then proceeded on through
+handsome plains on each side of the river, and encamped at the distance
+of twenty-three and a half miles on the north side: the day was clear
+and pleasant, the wind high from the south, but afterwards changed to a
+western steady breeze. The bluffs which we passed to-day are upwards of
+one hundred feet high, composed of a mixture of yellow clay and sand,
+with many horizontal strata of carbonated wood resembling pit-coal, from
+one to five feet in depth, and scattered through the bluff at different
+elevations, some as high as eighty feet above the water: the hills along
+the river are broken, and present every appearance of having been burned
+at some former period; great quantities of pumicestone and lava or
+rather earth, which seems to have been boiled and then hardened by
+exposure, being seen in many parts of these hills where they are broken
+and washed down into gullies by the rain and melting snow. A great
+number of brants pass up the river: there are some of them perfectly
+white, except the large feathers of the first and second joint of the
+wing which are black, though in every other characteristic they resemble
+common gray brant: we also saw but could not procure an animal that
+burrows in the ground, and similar in every respect to the burrowing
+squirrel, except that it is only one third of its size. This may be the
+animal whose works we have often seen in the plains and prairies; they
+resemble the labours of the salamander in the sand hills of South
+Carolina and Georgia, and like him, the animals rarely come above
+ground; they consist of a little hillock of ten or twelve pounds of
+loose ground which would seem to have been reversed from a pot, though
+no aperture is seen through which it could have been thrown: on removing
+gently the earth, you discover that the soil has been broken in a circle
+of about an inch and a half diameter, where the ground is looser though
+still no opening is perceptible. When we stopped for dinner the squaw
+went out, and after penetrating with a sharp stick the holes of the
+mice, near some drift wood, brought to us a quantity of wild artichokes,
+which the mice collect and hoard in large numbers; the root is white, of
+an ovate form, from one to three inches long, and generally of the size
+of a man's finger, and two, four, and sometimes six roots are attached
+to a single stalk. Its flavour as well as the stalk which issues from it
+resemble those of the Jerusalem artichoke, except that the latter is
+much larger. A large beaver was caught in a trap last night, and the
+musquitoes begin to trouble us.
+
+Wednesday 10. We again set off early with clear pleasant weather, and
+halted about ten for breakfast, above a sandbank which was falling in,
+and near a small willow island. On both sides of the Missouri, after
+ascending the hills near the water, one fertile unbroken plain extends
+itself as far as the eye can reach, without a solitary tree or shrub,
+except in moist situations or in the steep declivities of hills where
+they are sheltered from the ravages of fire. At the distance of twelve
+miles we reached the lower point of a bluff on the south; which is in
+some parts on fire and throws out quantities of smoke which has a strong
+sulphurous smell, the coal and other appearances in the bluffs being
+like those described yesterday: at one o'clock we overtook three
+Frenchmen who left the fort a few days before us, in order to make the
+first attempt on this river of hunting beaver, which they do by means of
+traps: their efforts promise to be successful for they have already
+caught twelve which are finer than any we have ever seen: they mean to
+accompany us as far as the Yellowstone river in order to obtain our
+protection against the Assiniboins who might attack them. In the evening
+we encamped on a willow point to the south opposite to a bluff, above
+which a small creek falls in, and just above a remarkable bend in the
+river to the southwest, which we called the Little Basin. The low
+grounds which we passed to-day possess more timber than is usual, and
+are wider: the current is moderate, at least not greater than that of
+the Ohio in high tides; the banks too fall in but little; so that the
+navigation comparatively with that lower down the Missouri is safe and
+easy. We were enabled to make eighteen and a half miles: we saw the
+track of a large white bear, there were also a herd of antelopes in the
+plains; the geese and swan are now feeding in considerable quantities on
+the young grass in the low prairies; we shot a prairie hen, and a bald
+eagle of which there were many nests in the tall cottonwood trees; but
+could procure neither of two elk which were in the plain. Our old
+companions the musquitoes have renewed their visit, and gave us much
+uneasiness.
+
+Thursday, 11th. We set out at daylight, and after passing bare and
+barren hills on the south, and a plain covered with timber on the north,
+breakfasted at five miles distance: here we were regaled with a deer
+brought in by the hunters, which was very acceptable as we had been for
+several days without fresh meat; the country between this and fort
+Mandan being so frequently disturbed by hunters that the game has become
+scarce. We then proceeded with a gentle breeze from the south which
+carried the periogues on very well; the day was however so warm that
+several of the men worked with no clothes except round the waist, which
+is the less inconvenient as we are obliged to wade in some places owing
+to the shallowness of the river. At seven miles we reached a large
+sandbar making out from the north. We again stopped for dinner, after
+which we went on to a small plain on the north covered with cottonwood
+where we encamped, having made nineteen miles. The country around is
+much the same as that we passed yesterday: on the sides of the hills,
+and even on the banks of the rivers, as well as on the sandbars, is a
+white substance which appears in considerable quantities on the surface
+of the earth, and tastes like a mixture of common salt with glauber
+salts: many of the streams which come from the foot of the hills, are so
+strongly impregnated with this substance, that the water has an
+unpleasant taste and a purgative effect. A beaver was caught last night
+by one of the Frenchmen; we killed two geese, and saw some cranes, the
+largest bird of that kind common to the Missouri and Mississippi, and
+perfectly white except the large feathers on the two first joints of the
+wing which are black. Under a bluff opposite to our encampment we
+discovered some Indians with horses, whom we supposed were Minnetarees,
+but the width of the river prevented our speaking to them.
+
+Friday, 12th. We set off early and passed a high range of hills on the
+south side, our periogues being obliged to go over to the south in order
+to avoid a sandbank which was rapidly falling in. At six miles we came
+to at the lower side of the entrance of the Little Missouri, where we
+remained during the day for the purpose of making celestial
+observations. This river empties itself on the south side of the
+Missouri, one thousand six hundred and ninety-three miles from its
+confluence with the Mississippi. It rises to the west of the Black
+mountains, across the northern extremity of which it finds a narrow
+rapid passage along high perpendicular banks, then seeks the Missouri in
+a northeastern direction, through a broken country with highlands bare
+of timber, and the low grounds particularly supplied with cottonwood,
+elm, small ash, box, alder, and an undergrowth of willow, redwood,
+sometimes called red or swamp-willow, the redberry and chokecherry. In
+its course it passes near the northwest side of the Turtle mountain,
+which is said to be only twelve or fifteen miles from its mouth in a
+straight line a little to the south of west, so that both the Little
+Missouri and Knife river have been laid down too far southwest. It
+enters the Missouri with a bold current, and is one hundred and
+thirty-four yards wide, but its greatest depth is two feet and a half,
+and this joined to its rapidity and its sandbars, make the navigation
+difficult except for canoes, which may ascend it for a considerable
+distance. At the mouth, and as far as we could discern from the hills
+between the two rivers about three miles from their junction, the
+country is much broken, the soil consisting of a deep rich dark coloured
+loam, intermixed with a small proportion of fine sand and covered
+generally with a short grass resembling blue grass. In its colour, the
+nature of its bed, and its general appearance, it resembles so much the
+Missouri as to induce a belief that the countries they water are similar
+in point of soil. From the Mandan villages to this place the country is
+hilly and irregular, with the same appearance of glauber salts and
+carbonated wood, the low grounds smooth, sandy, and partially covered
+with cottonwood and small ash; at some distance back there are extensive
+plains of a good soil, but without timber or water.
+
+We found great quantities of small onions which grow single, the bulb of
+an oval form, white, about the size of a bullet with a leaf resembling
+that of the chive. On the side of a neighbouring hill, there is a
+species of dwarf cedar: it spreads its limbs along the surface of the
+earth, which it almost conceals by its closeness and thickness, and is
+sometimes covered by it, having always a number of roots on the under
+side, while on the upper are a quantity of shoots which with their
+leaves seldom rise higher than six or eight inches; it is an evergreen,
+its leaf more delicate than that of the common cedar, though the taste
+and smell is the same.
+
+The country around has been so recently hunted that the game are
+extremely shy, so that a white rabbit, two beaver, a deer, and a bald
+eagle were all that we could procure. The weather had been clear, warm,
+and pleasant in the morning, but about three we had a squall of high
+wind and rain with some thunder, which lasted till after sunset when it
+again cleared off.
+
+Saturday 13. We set out at sunrise, and at nine o'clock having the wind
+in our favour went on rapidly past a timbered low ground on the south,
+and a creek on the north at the distance of nine miles, which we called
+Onion creek, from the quantity of that plant which grows in the plains
+near it: this creek is about sixteen yards wide at a mile and a half
+above its mouth, it discharges more water than is usual for creeks of
+that size in this country, but the whole plain which it waters is
+totally destitute of timber. The Missouri itself widens very remarkably
+just above the junction with the Little Missouri: immediately at the
+entrance of the latter, it is not more than two hundred yards wide, and
+so shallow that it may be passed in canoes with setting poles, while a
+few miles above it is upwards of a mile in width: ten miles beyond Onion
+creek we came to another, discharging itself on the north in the centre
+of a deep bend: on ascending it for about a mile and a half, we found it
+to be the discharge of a pond or small lake, which seemed to have been
+once the bed of the Missouri: near this lake were the remains of
+forty-three temporary lodges which seem to belong to the Assiniboins,
+who are now on the river of the same name. A great number of swan and
+geese were also in it, and from this circumstance we named the creek
+Goose creek, and the lake by the same name: these geese we observe do
+not build their nests on the ground or in sandbars, but in the tops of
+lofty cottonwood trees: we saw some elk and buffaloe to-day but at too
+great a distance to obtain any of them, though a number of the carcases
+of the latter animal are strewed along the shores, having fallen through
+the ice, and been swept along when the river broke up. More bald eagles
+are seen on this part of the Missouri than we have previously met with;
+the small or common hawk, common in most parts of the United States, are
+also found here: great quantities of geese are feeding in the prairies,
+and one flock of white brant or goose with black wings, and some gray
+brant with them pass up river, and from their flight they seem to
+proceed much farther to the northwest. We killed two antelopes which
+were very lean, and caught last night two beaver: the French hunters who
+had procured seven, thinking the neighborhood of the Little Missouri a
+convenient hunting ground for that animal, remained behind there: in
+the evening we encamped in a beautiful plain on the north thirty feet
+above the river, having made twenty-two and a half miles.
+
+Sunday 14. We set off early with pleasant and fair weather: a dog joined
+us, which we suppose had strayed from the Assiniboin camp on the lake.
+At two and a half miles we passed timbered low grounds and a small
+creek: in these low grounds are several uninhabited lodges built with
+the boughs of the elm, and the remains of two recent encampments, which
+from the hoops of small kegs found in them we judged could belong to
+Assiniboins only, as they are the only Missouri Indians who use
+spirituous liquors: of these they are so passionately fond that it forms
+their chief inducement to visit the British on the Assiniboin, to whom
+they barter for kegs of rum their dried and pounded meat, their grease,
+and the skins of large and small wolves, and small foxes. The dangerous
+exchange is transported to their camps with their friends and relations,
+and soon exhausted in brutal intoxication: so far from considering
+drunkenness as disgraceful, the women and children are permitted and
+invited to share in these excesses with their husbands and fathers, who
+boast how often their skill and industry as hunters has supplied them
+with the means of intoxication: in this, as in their other habits and
+customs, they resemble the Sioux from whom they are descended: the trade
+with the Assiniboins and Knistenaux is encouraged by the British,
+because it procures provision for their _engages_ on their return from
+Rainy lake to the English river and the Athabasky country where they
+winter; these men being obliged during that voyage to pass rapidly
+through a country but scantily supplied with game. We halted for dinner
+near a large village of burrowing squirrels, who we observe generally
+select a southeasterly exposure, though they are sometimes found in the
+plains. At ten and a quarter miles we came to the lower point of an
+island, which from the day of our arrival there we called Sunday
+island: here the river washes the bases of the hills on both sides and
+above the island, which with its sandbar extends a mile and a half: two
+small creeks fall in from the south; the uppermost of these, which is
+the largest, we called Chaboneau's creek, after our interpreter who once
+encamped on it several weeks with a party of Indians. Beyond this no
+white man had ever been except two Frenchmen, one of whom Lapage is with
+us, and who having lost their way straggled a few miles further, though
+to what point we could not ascertain: about a mile and a half beyond
+this island we encamped on a point of woodland on the north, having made
+in all fourteen miles.
+
+The Assiniboins have so recently left the river that game is scarce and
+shy. One of the hunters shot at an otter last evening; a buffaloe too
+was killed, and an elk, both so poor as to be almost unfit for use; two
+white bear were also seen, and a muskrat swimming across the river. The
+river continues wide and of about the same rapidity as the ordinary
+current of the Ohio. The low grounds are wide, the moister parts
+containing timber, the upland extremely broken, without wood, and in
+some places seem as if they had slipped down in masses of several acres
+in surface. The mineral appearances of salts, coal, and sulphur, with
+the burnt hill and pumicestone continue, and a bituminous water about
+the colour of strong lye, with the taste of glauber salts and a slight
+tincture of allum. Many geese were feeding in the prairies, and a number
+of magpies who build their nest much like those of the blackbird in
+trees, and composed of small sticks, leaves and grass, open at top: the
+egg is of a bluish brown color, freckled with reddish brown spots. We
+also killed a large hooting owl resembling that of the United States,
+except that it was more booted and clad with feathers. On the hills are
+many aromatic herbs, resembling in taste, smell and appearance the sage,
+hysop, wormwood, southern wood, juniper and dwarf cedar; a plant also
+about two or three feet high, similar to the camphor in smell and
+taste, and another plant of the same size, with a long, narrow, smooth,
+soft leaf, of an agreeable smell and flavour, which is a favourite food
+of the antelope, whose necks are often perfumed by rubbing against it.
+
+Monday 15. We proceeded under a fine breeze from the south, and clear
+pleasant weather. At seven miles we reached the lower point of an island
+in a bend to the south, which is two miles in length. Captain Clarke,
+who went about nine miles northward from the river reached the high
+grounds, which, like those we have seen, are level plains without
+timber; here he observed a number of drains, which descending from the
+hills pursue a northeast course, and probably empty into the Mouse
+river, a branch of the Assiniboin, which from Indian accounts approaches
+very near to the Missouri at this place. Like all the rivulets of this
+neighbourhood these drains were so strongly impregnated with mineral
+salts that they are not fit to drink. He saw also the remains of several
+camps of Assiniboins; the low grounds on both sides of the river are
+extensive, rich, and level. In a little pond on the north, we heard for
+the first time this season the croaking of frogs, which exactly
+resembles that of the small frogs in the United States: there are also
+in these plains great quantities of geese, and many of the grouse, or
+prairie hen, as they are called by the N.W. company traders; the note of
+the male, as far as words can represent it, is cook, cook, cook, coo,
+coo, coo, the first part of which both male and female use when flying;
+the male too drums with his wings when he flies in the same way, though
+not so loud as the pheasant; they appear to be mating. Some deer, elk,
+and goats were in the low grounds, and buffaloe on the sand beaches, but
+they were uncommonly shy; we also saw a black bear, and two white ones.
+At fifteen miles we passed on the north side a small creek twenty yards
+wide, which we called Goatpen creek, from a park or enclosure for the
+purpose of catching that animal, which those who went up the creek
+found, and which we presume to have been left by the Assiniboins. Its
+water is impregnated with mineral salts, and the country through which
+it flows consists of wide and very fertile plains, but without any
+trees. We encamped at the distance of twenty-three miles, on a sandpoint
+to the south; we passed in the evening a rock in the middle of the
+river, the channel of which a little above our camp, is confined within
+eighty yards.
+
+Tuesday 16. The morning was clear, the wind light from the S.E. The
+country presents the same appearance of low plains and meadows on the
+river, bounded a few miles back by broken hills, which end in high level
+fertile lands, the quantity of timber is however increasing. The
+appearance of minerals continues as usual, and to-day we found several
+stones which seemed to have been wood, first carbonated and then
+petrified by the water of the Missouri, which has the same effect on
+many vegetable substances. There is indeed reason to believe that the
+strata of coal in the hills cause the fire and appearances which they
+exhibit of being burned. Whenever these marks present themselves in the
+bluffs on the river, the coal is seldom seen, and when found in the
+neighborhood of the strata of burnt earth, the coal with the sand and
+sulphurous matter usually accompanying it, is precisely at the same
+height and nearly of the same thickness with those strata. We passed
+three small creeks or rather runs, which rise in the hills to the north.
+Numbers of geese, and few ducks chiefly of the mallard and bluewinged
+teal, many buffaloe, elk and deer were also observed, and in the
+timbered low grounds this morning we were surprised to observe a great
+quantity of old hornets' nests: we encamped in a point of woods on the
+south, having come eighteen miles, though the circuits which we were
+obliged to make around sandbars very much increased the real distance.
+
+Wednesday, April 17. We set off early, the weather being fine, and the
+wind so favourable as to enable us to sail the greater part of the
+course. At ten and three quarter miles we passed a creek ten yards wide
+on the south; at eighteen miles a little run on the north, and at night
+encamped in a woody point on the south. We had travelled twenty-six
+miles through a country similar to that of yesterday, except that there
+were greater appearances of burnt hills, furnishing large quantities of
+lava and pumicestone, of the last of which we observe some pieces
+floating down the river, as we had previously done, as low as the Little
+Missouri. In all the copses of wood are the remains of the Assiniboin
+encampments; around us are great quantities of game, such as herds of
+buffaloe, elk, antelopes, some deer and wolves, the tracks of bears, a
+curlue was also seen, and we obtained three beaver, the flesh of which
+is more relished by the men than any other food which we have. Just
+before we encamped we saw some tracks of Indians, who had passed
+twenty-four hours before, and left four rafts, and whom we supposed to
+be a band of Assiniboins on their return from war against the Indians on
+the Rocky mountains.
+
+Thursday 18. We had again a pleasant day, and proceeded on with a
+westerly wind, which however changed to N.W. and blew so hard that we
+were obliged to stop at one o'clock and remain four hours, when it
+abated and we then continued our course.
+
+We encamped about dark on a woody bank having made thirteen miles. The
+country presented the usual variety of highlands interspersed with rich
+plains. In one of these we observed a species of pea bearing a yellow
+flower, which is now in blossom, the leaf and stalk resembling the
+common pea. It seldom rises higher than six inches, and the root is
+perennial. On the rose bushes we also saw a quantity of the hair of the
+buffaloe, which had become perfectly white by exposure, and resembled
+the wool of the sheep, except that it was much finer and more soft and
+silky. A buffaloe which we killed yesterday had shed his long hair, and
+that which remained was about two inches long, thick, fine, and would
+have furnished five pounds of wool, of which we have no doubt an
+excellent cloth may be made. Our game to-day was a beaver, a deer, an
+elk, and some geese. The river has been crooked all day and bearing
+towards the south.
+
+On the hills we observed considerable quantities of dwarf juniper, which
+seldom grows higher than three feet. We killed in the course of the day
+an elk, three geese and a beaver. The beaver on this part of the
+Missouri are in greater quantities, larger and fatter, and their fur is
+more abundant and of a darker colour than any we had hitherto seen:
+their favourite food seems to be the bark of the cottonwood and willow,
+as we have seen no other species of tree that has been touched by them,
+and these they gnaw to the ground through a diameter of twenty inches.
+
+The next day, Friday, 19th, the wind was so high from northwest that we
+could not proceed, but being less violent on
+
+Saturday, 20th, we set off about seven o'clock, and had nearly lost one
+of the canoes as we left the shore, by the falling in of a large part of
+the bank. The wind too became again so strong that we could scarcely
+make one mile an hour, and the sudden squalls so dangerous to the small
+boats, that we stopped for the night among some willows on the north,
+not being able to advance more than six and a half miles. In walking
+through the neighbouring plains we found a fine fertile soil covered
+with cottonwood, some box, alder, ash, red elm, and an undergrowth of
+willow, rosebushes, honeysuckle, red willow, gooseberry, currant, and
+serviceberries, and along the foot of the hills great quantities of
+hysop. Our hunters procured elk and deer which are now lean, and six
+beaver which are fatter and more palatable. Along the plain there were
+also some Indian camps; near one of these was a scaffold about seven
+feet high, on which were two sleds with their harness, and under it the
+body of a female, carefully wrapped in several dressed buffaloe skins;
+near it lay a bag made of buffaloe skin, containing a pair of moccasins,
+some red and blue paint, beaver's nails, scrapers for dressing hides,
+some dried roots, several plaits of sweet grass, and a small quantity of
+Mandan tobacco. These things as well as the body itself had probably
+fallen down by accident, as the custom is to place them on the scaffold.
+At a little distance was the body of a dog not yet decayed, who had met
+this reward for having dragged thus far in the sled the corpse of his
+mistress, to whom according to the Indian usage he had been sacrificed.
+
+Sunday, 21st. Last night there was a hard white frost, and this morning
+the weather cold, but clear and pleasant: in the course of the day
+however it became cloudy and the wind rose. The country is of the same
+description as within the few last days. We saw immense quantities of
+buffaloe, elk, deer, antelopes, geese, and some swan and ducks, out of
+which we procured three deer, four buffaloe calves, which last are equal
+in flavour to the most delicious veal; also two beaver, and an otter. We
+passed one large and two small creeks on the south side, and reached at
+sixteen miles the mouth of Whiteearth river, coming in from the north.
+This river before it reaches the low grounds near the Missouri, is a
+fine bold stream sixty yards wide, and is deep and navigable, but it is
+so much choked up at the entrance by the mud of the Missouri, that its
+mouth is not more than ten yards wide. Its course, as far as we could
+discern from the neighbouring hills, is nearly due north, passing
+through a beautiful and fertile valley, though without a tree or bush of
+any description. Half a mile beyond this river we encamped on the same
+side below a point of highland, which from its appearance we call Cut
+bluff.
+
+Monday, 22d. The day clear and cold: we passed a high bluff on the north
+and plains on the south, in which were large herds of buffaloe, till
+breakfast, when the wind became so strong ahead that we proceeded with
+difficulty even with the aid of the towline. Some of the party now
+walked across to the Whiteearth river, which here at the distance of
+four miles from its mouth approaches very near to the Missouri. It
+contains more water than is usual in streams of the same size at this
+season, with steep banks about ten or twelve feet high, and the water is
+much clearer than that of the Missouri; the salts which have been
+mentioned as common on the Missouri, are here so abundant that in many
+places the ground appears perfectly white, and from this circumstance it
+may have derived its name; it waters an open country and is navigable
+almost to its source, which is not far from the Saskaskawan, and judging
+from its size and course, it is probable that it extends as far north as
+the fiftieth degree of latitude. After much delay in consequence of the
+high wind, we succeeded in making eleven miles, and encamped in a low
+ground on the south covered with cottonwood and rabbitberries. The hills
+of the Missouri near this place exhibit large irregular broken masses of
+rocks and stones, some of which, although two hundred feet above the
+water, seem at some remote period to have been subject to its influence,
+being apparently worn smooth by the agitation of the water. These rocks
+and stones consist of white and gray granite, a brittle black rock,
+flint, limestone, freestone, some small specimens of an excellent
+pebble, and occasionally broken stratas of a black coloured stone like
+petrified wood, which make good whetstones. The usual appearances of
+coal, or carbonated wood, and pumicestone still continue, the coal being
+of a better quality and when burnt affords a hot and lasting fire,
+emitting very little smoke or flame. There are huge herds of deer, elk,
+buffaloe, and antelopes in view of us: the buffaloe are not so shy as
+the rest, for they suffer us to approach within one hundred yards before
+they run, and then stop and resume their pasture at a very short
+distance. The wolves to-day pursued a herd of them, and at length caught
+a calf that was unable to keep up with the rest; the mothers on these
+occasions defending their young as long as they can retreat as fast as
+the herd, but seldom returning any distance to seek for them.
+
+Tuesday 23. A clear and pleasant morning, but at nine o'clock the wind
+became so high that the boats were in danger of upsetting; we therefore
+were forced to stop at a place of safety till about five in the
+afternoon, when the wind being lower we proceeded and encamped on the
+north at the distance of thirteen and a half miles: the party on shore
+brought us a buffaloe calf and three blacktailed deer: the sand on the
+river has the same appearances as usual, except that the quantity of
+wood increases.
+
+Wednesday 24. The wind blew so high during the whole day that we were
+unable to move; such indeed was its violence, that although we were
+sheltered by high timber the waves wet many articles in the boats: the
+hunters went out and returned with four deer, two elk, and some young
+wolves of the small kind. The party are very much afflicted with sore
+eyes, which we presume are occasioned by the vast quantities of sand
+which are driven from the sandbars in such clouds as often to hide from
+us the view of the opposite bank. The particles of this sand are so fine
+and light that it floats for miles in the air like a column of thick
+smoke, and is so penetrating that nothing can be kept free from it, and
+we are compelled to eat, drink, and breathe it very copiously. To the
+same cause we attribute the disorder of one of our watches, although her
+cases are double and tight; since without any defect in its works, that
+we can discover, it will not run for more than a few minutes without
+stopping.
+
+Thursday 25. The wind moderated this morning, but was still high; we
+therefore set out early, the weather being so cold that the water froze
+on the oars as we rowed, and about ten o'clock the wind increased so
+much that we were obliged to stop. This detention from the wind and the
+reports from our hunters of the crookedness of the river, induced us to
+believe that we were at no great distance from the Yellowstone river. In
+order therefore to prevent delay as much as possible, captain Lewis
+determined to go on by land in search of that river, and make the
+necessary observations, so as to be enabled to proceed on immediately
+after the boats should join him; he therefore landed about eleven
+o'clock on the south side, accompanied by four men; the boats were
+prevented from going until five in the afternoon, when they went on a
+few miles further and encamped for the night at the distance of fourteen
+and a half miles.
+
+Friday 26. We continued our voyage in the morning and by twelve o'clock
+encamped at eight miles distance, at the junction of the Missouri and
+Yellowstone rivers; where we were soon joined by captain Lewis.
+
+On leaving us yesterday he pursued his route along the foot of the
+hills, which he ascended at the distance of eight miles; from these the
+wide plains watered by the Missouri and the Yellowstone spread
+themselves before the eye, occasionally varied with the wood of the
+banks, enlivened by the irregular windings of the two rivers, and
+animated by vast herds of buffaloe, deer, elk, and antelope. The
+confluence of the two rivers was concealed by the wood, but the
+Yellowstone itself was only two miles distant to the south. He therefore
+descended the hills and encamped on the bank of the river, having killed
+as he crossed the plain four buffaloes; the deer alone are shy and
+retire to the woods, but the elk, antelope, and buffaloe suffered him to
+approach them without alarm, and often followed him quietly for some
+distance. This morning he sent a man up the river to examine it, while
+he proceeded down to the junction: the ground on the lower side of the
+Yellowstone near its mouth, is flat, and for about a mile seems to be
+subject to inundation, while that at the point or junction, as well as
+on the opposite side of the Missouri, is at the usual height of ten or
+eighteen feet above the water, and therefore not overflown. There is
+more timber in the neighbourhood of this place, and on the Missouri, as
+far below as the Whiteearth river, than on any other part of the
+Missouri on this side of the Chayenne: the timber consists principally
+of cottonwood, with some small elm, ash, and box alder. On the sandbars
+and along the margin of the river grows the small-leafed willow; in the
+low grounds adjoining are scattered rosebushes three or four feet high,
+the redberry, serviceberry and redwood. The higher plains are either
+immediately on the river, in which case they are generally timbered, and
+have an undergrowth like that of the low grounds, with the addition of
+the broad-leafed willow, gooseberry, chokecherry, purple currant, and
+honeysuckle; or they are between the low grounds and the hills, and for
+the most part without wood or any thing except large quantities of wild
+hysop; this plant rises about two feet high, and like the willow of the
+sandbars is a favourite food of the buffaloe, elk, deer, grouse,
+porcupine, hare, and rabbit. This river which had been known to the
+French as the Roche jaune, or as we have called it the Yellowstone,
+rises according to Indian information in the Rocky mountains; its
+sources are near those of the Missouri and the Platte, and it may be
+navigated in canoes almost to its head. It runs first through a
+mountainous country, but in many parts fertile and well timbered; it
+then waters a rich delightful land, broken into vallies and meadows, and
+well supplied with wood and water till it reaches near the Missouri open
+meadows and low grounds, sufficiently timbered on its borders. In the
+upper country its course is represented as very rapid, but during the
+two last and largest portions, its current is much more gentle than that
+of the Missouri, which it resembles also in being turbid though with
+less sediment. The man who was sent up the river, reported in the
+evening that he had gone about eight miles, that during that distance
+the river winds on both sides of a plain four or five miles wide, that
+the current was gentle and much obstructed by sandbars, that at five
+miles he had met with a large timbered island, three miles beyond which
+a creek falls in on the S.E. above a high bluff, in which are several
+strata of coal. The country as far as he could discern, resembled that
+of the Missouri, and in the plain he met several of the bighorn animals,
+but they were too shy to be obtained. The bed of the Yellowstone, as we
+observed it near the mouth, is composed of sand and mud, without a stone
+of any kind. Just above the confluence we measured the two rivers, and
+found the bed of the Missouri five hundred and twenty yards wide, the
+water occupying only three hundred and thirty, and the channel deep:
+while the Yellowstone, including its sandbar, occupied eight hundred and
+fifty-eight yards, with two hundred and ninety-seven yards of water: the
+deepest part of the channel is twelve feet, but the river is now falling
+and seems to be nearly at its summer height.
+
+April 27. We left the mouth of the Yellowstone. From the point of
+junction a wood occupies the space between the two rivers, which at the
+distance of a mile comes within two hundred and fifty yards of each
+other. There a beautiful low plain commences, and widening as the rivers
+recede, extends along each of them for several miles, rising about half
+a mile from the Missouri into a plain twelve feet higher than itself.
+The low plain is a few inches above high water mark, and where it joins
+the higher plain there is a channel of sixty or seventy yards in width,
+through which a part of the Missouri when at its greatest height passes
+into the Yellowstone. At two and a half miles above the junction and
+between the high and low plain is a small lake, two hundred yards wide,
+extending for a mile parallel with the Missouri along the edge of the
+upper plain. At the lower extremity of this lake, about four hundred
+yards from the Missouri, and twice that distance from the Yellowstone,
+is a situation highly eligible for a trading establishment; it is in the
+high plain which extends back three miles in width, and seven or eight
+miles in length, along the Yellowstone, where it is bordered by an
+extensive body of woodland, and along the Missouri with less breadth,
+till three miles above it is circumscribed by the hills within a space
+four yards in width. A sufficient quantity of limestone for building may
+easily be procured near the junction of the rivers; it does not lie in
+regular stratas, but is in large irregular masses, of a light colour and
+apparently of an excellent quality. Game too is very abundant, and as
+yet quite gentle; above all, its elevation recommends it as preferable
+to the land at the confluence of the rivers, which their variable
+channels may render very insecure. The N.W. wind rose so high at eleven
+o'clock, that we were obliged to stop till about four in the afternoon,
+when we proceeded till dusk. On the south a beautiful plain separates
+the two rivers, till at about six miles there is a timbered piece of low
+ground, and a little above it bluffs, where the country rises gradually
+from the river; the situations on the north more high and open. We
+encamped on that side, the wind, the sand which it raised, and the
+rapidity of the current having prevented our advancing more than eight
+miles; during the latter part of the day the river becomes wider and
+crowded with sandbars: although the game is in such plenty we kill only
+what is necessary for our subsistence. For several days past we have
+seen great numbers of buffaloe lying dead along the shore, and some of
+them partly devoured by the wolves; they have either sunk through the
+ice during the winter, or been drowned in attempting to cross, or else,
+after crossing to some high bluff, found themselves too much exhausted
+either to ascend or swim back again, and perished for want of food; in
+this situation we found several small parties of them. There are geese
+too in abundance, and more bald-eagles than we have hitherto observed;
+the nests of these last being always accompanied by those of two or
+three magpies, who are their inseparable attendants.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER VIII.
+
+     Unusual appearance of salt--The formidable character of the white
+     bear--Porcupine river described--Beautiful appearance of the
+     surrounding country--Immense quantities of game--Milk river
+     described--Extraordinary character of Bigdry river--An instance of
+     uncommon tenacity of life in a white bear--Narrow escape of one of
+     the party from that animal--A still more remarkable
+     instance--Muscleshell river described.
+
+
+Sunday 28. The day was clear and pleasant, and the wind having shifted
+to southeast, we could employ our sails, and went twenty-four miles to a
+low ground on the north opposite to steep bluffs: the country on both
+sides is much broken, the hills approaching nearer to the river, and
+forming bluffs, some of a white and others of a red colour, and
+exhibiting the usual appearances of minerals, and some burnt hills
+though without any pumicestone; the salts are in greater quantities than
+usual, and the banks and sandbars are covered with a white incrustation
+like frost. The low grounds are level, fertile and partially timbered,
+but are not so wide as for a few days past. The woods are now green, but
+the plains and meadows seem to have less verdure than those below: the
+only streams which we met to-day are two small runs on the north and one
+on the south, which rise in the neighbouring hills, and have very little
+water. At the distance of eighteen miles the Missouri makes a
+considerable bend to the southeast: the game is very abundant, the
+common, and mule or blacktailed deer, elk, buffaloe, antelope, brown
+bear, beaver, and geese. The beaver have committed great devastation
+among the trees, one of which, nearly three feet in diameter, has been
+gnawed through by them.
+
+Monday 29. We proceeded early with a moderate wind: captain Lewis who
+was on shore with one hunter met about eight o'clock two white bears: of
+the strength and ferocity of this animal, the Indians had given us
+dreadful accounts: they never attack him but in parties of six or eight
+persons, and even then are often defeated with the loss of one or more
+of the party. Having no weapons but bows and arrows, and the bad guns
+with which the traders supply them, they are obliged to approach very
+near to the bear; and as no wound except through the head or heart is
+mortal, they frequently fall a sacrifice if they miss their aim. He
+rather attacks than avoids a man, and such is the terror which he has
+inspired, that the Indians who go in quest of him paint themselves and
+perform all the superstitious rites customary when they make war on a
+neighbouring nation. Hitherto those we had seen did not appear desirous
+of encountering us, but although to a skilful rifleman the danger is
+very much diminished, yet the white bear is still a terrible animal: on
+approaching these two, both captain Lewis and the hunter fired and each
+wounded a bear: one of them made his escape; the other turned upon
+captain Lewis and pursued him seventy or eighty yards, but being badly
+wounded he could not run so fast as to prevent him from reloading his
+piece, which he again aimed at him, and a third shot from the hunter
+brought him to the ground: he was a male not quite full grown, and
+weighed about three hundred pounds: the legs are somewhat longer than
+those of the black bear, and the talons and tusks much larger and
+longer. The testicles are also placed much farther forward and suspended
+in separate pouches from two to four inches asunder, while those of the
+black bear are situated back between the thighs and in a single pouch
+like those of the dog: its colour is a yellowish brown, the eyes small,
+black, and piercing, the front of the fore legs near the feet is usually
+black, and the fur is finer, thicker, and deeper than that of the black
+bear: add to which, it is a more furious animal, and very remarkable for
+the wounds which it will bear without dying.
+
+We are surrounded with deer, elk, buffaloe, antelopes, and their
+companions the wolves, who have become more numerous and make great
+ravages among them: the hills are here much more rough and high, and
+almost overhang the banks of the river. There are greater appearances of
+coal than we have hitherto seen, the stratas of it being in some places
+six feet thick, and there are stratas of burnt earth, which are always
+on the same level with those of coal. In the evening after coming
+twenty-five miles we encamped at the entrance of a river which empties
+itself into a bend on the north side of the Missouri: this stream which
+we called Martha's river, is about fifty yards wide, with water for
+fifteen yards, the banks are of earth, and steep, though not high, and
+the bed principally of mud. Captain Clarke, who ascended it for three
+miles, found that it continued of the same width with a gentle current,
+and pursuing its course about north 30° west, through an extensive,
+fertile, and beautiful valley, but without a single tree. The water is
+clear, and has a brownish yellow tint; at this place the highlands which
+yesterday and to-day had approached so near the river became lower, and
+receding from the water left a valley seven or eight miles wide.
+
+Tuesday 30. The wind was high from the north during last evening and
+continued so this morning: we however continued, and found the river
+more winding than usual and with a number of sand islands and bars, on
+one of which last we encamped at the distance of twenty-four miles. The
+low grounds are fertile and extensive but with very little timber, and
+that cottonwood, very bad of its kind, being too small for planks, and
+broken and dead at the top and unsound in the centre of the trunk. We
+passed some ancient lodges of driftwood which do not appear to have been
+lately inhabited. The game continues abundant: we killed the largest
+male elk we have yet seen; on placing it in its natural erect position,
+we found that it measured five feet three inches from the point of the
+hoof to the top of the shoulder. The antelopes are yet lean and the
+females are with young: this fleet and quick-sighted animal is generally
+the victim of its curiosity: when they first see the hunters they run
+with great velocity; if he lies down on the ground and lifts up his arm,
+his hat, or his foot, the antelope returns on a light trot to look at
+the object, and sometimes goes and returns two or three times till they
+approach within reach of the rifle; so too they sometimes leave their
+flock to go and look at the wolves who crouch down, and if the antelope
+be frightened at first repeat the same manoeuvre, and sometimes relieve
+each other till they decoy it from the party when they seize it. But
+generally the wolves take them as they are crossing the rivers, for
+although swift of foot they are not good swimmers.
+
+Wednesday, May 1. The wind was in our favour and we were enabled to use
+the sails till twelve o'clock, when the wind became so high and squally
+that we were forced to come to at the distance of ten miles on the
+south, in a low ground stocked with cottonwood, and remain there during
+the day; one of the canoes being separated from us, and not able to
+cross over in consequence of the high waves. The country around is more
+pleasant than that through which we had passed for several days, the
+hills being lower, the low grounds wider and better supplied with
+timber, which consists principally of cottonwood: the undergrowth willow
+on the banks and sandbars, rosebushes, redwillow, and the broad-leafed
+willow in the low plains, while the high country on both sides is one
+extensive plain without wood, though the soil is a dark, rich, mellow
+loam. Our hunters killed a buffaloe, an elk, a goat, and two beaver, and
+also a bird of the plover kind.
+
+Thursday, 2d. The wind continued high during the night, and at daylight
+it began to snow and did not stop till ten o'clock, when the ground was
+covered an inch deep, forming a striking contrast with the vegetation
+which is now considerably advanced; some flowers having put forth, and
+the cottonwood leaves as large as a dollar. The wind lulled about five
+o'clock in the afternoon, and we then proceeded along wide fertile low
+grounds and high level plains, and encamped at the distance of four
+miles. Our game to-day was deer, elk, and buffaloe: we also procured
+three beaver who are quite gentle, as they have not been hunted, but
+when the hunters are in pursuit they never leave their huts during the
+day: this animal we esteem a great delicacy, particularly the tail,
+which when boiled resembles in flavor the flesh tongues and sounds of
+the codfish, and is generally so large as to afford a plentiful meal for
+two men. One of the hunters in passing near an old Indian camp found
+several yards of scarlet cloth, suspended on the bough of a tree as a
+sacrifice to the deity by the Assiniboins: the custom of making these
+offerings being common among that people as indeed among all the Indians
+on the Missouri. The air was sharp this evening; the water froze on the
+oars as we rowed, and in the morning.
+
+Friday, 3d, the weather became quite cold, the ice was a quarter of an
+inch thick in the kettle, and the snow still continued on the hills
+though it has melted from the plains. The wind too continued high from
+the west, but not so violently as to prevent our going on. At two miles
+from our encampment we passed a curious collection of bushes about
+thirty feet high and ten or twelve in diameter, tied in the form of a
+fascine and standing on end in the middle of the low ground: this too we
+supposed to have been left by the Indians as a religious sacrifice: at
+twelve o'clock the usual hour we halted for dinner. The low grounds on
+the river are much wider than common, sometimes extending from five to
+nine miles to the highlands, which are much lower than heretofore, not
+being more than fifty or sixty feet above the lower plain: through all
+this valley traces of the ancient bed of the river are every where
+visible, and since the hills have become lower, the stratas of coal,
+burnt earth, and pumicestone have in a great measure ceased, there
+being in fact none to-day. At the distance of fourteen miles we reached
+the mouth of a river on the north, which from the unusual number of
+porcupines near it, we called Porcupine river. This is a bold and
+beautiful stream one hundred and twelve yards wide, though the water is
+only forty yards at its entrance: captain Clarke who ascended it several
+miles and passed it above where it enters the highlands, found it
+continued nearly of the same width and about knee deep, and as far as he
+could distinguish for twenty miles from the hills, its course was from a
+little to the east of north. There was much timber on the low grounds:
+he found some limestone also on the surface of the earth in the course
+of his walk, and saw a range of low mountains at a distance to the west
+of north, whose direction was northwest; the adjoining country being
+every where level, fertile, open, and exceedingly beautiful. The water
+of this river is transparent, and is the only one that is so of all
+those that fall into the Missouri: before entering a large sandbar
+through which it discharges itself, its low grounds are formed of a
+stiff blue and black clay, and its banks which are from eight to ten
+feet high and seldom if ever overflow are composed of the same
+materials. From the quantity of water which this river contains, its
+direction, and the nature of the country through which it passes, it is
+not improbable that its sources may be near the main body of the
+Saskaskawan, and as in high water it can be no doubt navigated to a
+considerable distance, it may be rendered the means of intercourse with
+the Athabasky country, from which the northwest company derive so many
+of their valuable furs.
+
+A quarter of a mile beyond this river a creek falls in on the south, to
+which on account of its distance from the mouth of the Missouri, we gave
+it the name of Two-thousand mile creek: it is a bold stream with a bed
+thirty yards wide. Three miles and a half above Porcupine river, we
+reached some high timber on the north, and encamped just above an old
+channel of the river, which is now dry. We saw vast quantities of
+buffaloe, elk, deer, principally of the long tailed kind, antelopes,
+beaver, geese, ducks, brant, and some swan. The porcupines too are
+numerous, and so careless and clumsy that we can approach very near
+without disturbing them as they are feeding on the young willows;
+towards evening we also found for the first time, the nest of a goose
+among some driftwood, all that we have hitherto seen being on the top of
+a broken tree on the forks, and invariably from fifteen to twenty feet
+or more in height.
+
+Saturday 4. We were detained till nine in order to repair the rudder of
+one of the boats, and when we set out the wind was ahead; at six and a
+half miles we passed a small creek in a deep bend on the south with a
+sand island opposite to it, and then passing along an extensive plain
+which gradually rises from the north side of the river, encamped at the
+distance of eighteen miles in a point of woodland on the north: the
+river is this day wider than usual, and crowded with sandbars on all
+sides: the country is level, fertile, and beautiful, the low grounds
+extensive and contain a much greater portion of timber than is common:
+indeed all the forepart of the day the river was bordered with timber on
+both sides, a circumstance very rare on the Missouri, and the first that
+has occurred since we left the Mandans. There are as usual vast
+quantities of game, and extremely gentle; the male buffaloe particularly
+will scarcely give way to us, and as we approach will merely look at us
+for a moment, as something new, and then quietly resume their feeding.
+In the course of the day we passed some old Indian hunting camps, one of
+which consisted of two large lodges fortified with a circular fence,
+twenty or thirty feet in diameter, and made of timber laid horizontally,
+the beams overlaying each other to the height of five feet, and covered
+with the trunks and limbs of trees that have drifted down the river: the
+lodges themselves are formed by three or more strong sticks about the
+size of a man's leg or arm, and twelve feet long, which are attached at
+the top by a whith of small willows, and spreading out so as to form at
+the base a circle of ten or fourteen feet in diameter: against these are
+placed pieces of driftwood and fallen timber, usually in three ranges
+one on the other, and the interstices are covered with leaves, bark, and
+straw, so as to form a conical figure about ten feet high, with a small
+aperture in one side for the door. It is, however, at best a very
+imperfect shelter against the inclemencies of the seasons.
+
+Sunday 5. We had a fine morning, and the wind being from the east we
+used our sails. At the distance of five miles we came to a small island,
+and twelve miles farther encamped on the north, at the distance of
+seventeen miles. The country like that of yesterday is beautiful in the
+extreme. Among the vast quantities of game around us, we distinguish a
+small species of goose differing considerably from the common Canadian
+goose; its neck, head, and beak, being much thicker, larger, and shorter
+in proportion to its size, which is nearly a third smaller; the noise
+too resembling more that of the brant or of a young goose that has not
+yet fully acquired its note; in other respects its colour, habits, and
+the number of feathers in the tail, the two species correspond; this
+species also associates in flocks with the large geese, but we have not
+seen it pair off with them. The white brant is about the size of the
+common brown brant, or two thirds of the common goose, than which it is
+also six inches shorter from the extremity of the wings, though the
+beak, head, and neck are larger and stronger: the body and wings are of
+a beautiful pure white, except the black feathers of the first and
+second joints of the wings; the beak and legs are of a reddish or
+flesh-coloured white, the eye of a moderate size, the pupil of a deep
+sea-green incircled with a ring of yellowish brown, the tail consists of
+sixteen feathers equally long, the flesh is dark and as well as its note
+differs but little from those of the common brant, whom in form and
+habits it resembles, and with whom it sometimes unites in a common
+flock; the white brant also associate by themselves in large flocks, but
+as they do not seem to be mated or paired off, it is doubtful whether
+they reside here during the summer for the purpose of rearing their
+young.
+
+The wolves are also very abundant, and are of two species. First, the
+small wolf or burrowing dog of the prairies, which are found in almost
+all the open plains. It is of an intermediate size between the fox and
+dog, very delicately formed, fleet and active. The ears are large,
+erect, and pointed, the head long and pointed, like that of the fox; the
+tail long and bushy; the hair and fur of a pale reddish brown colour,
+though much coarser than that of the fox; the eye of a deep sea-green
+colour, small and piercing; the talons rather longer than those of the
+wolf of the Atlantic states, which animal as far as we can perceive is
+not to be found on this side of the river Platte. These wolves usually
+associate in bands of ten or twelve, and are rarely if ever seen alone,
+not being able singly to attack a deer or antelope. They live and rear
+their young in burrows, which they fix near some pass or spot much
+frequented by game, and sally out in a body against any animal which
+they think they can overpower, but on the slightest alarm retreat to
+their burrows making a noise exactly like that of a small dog.
+
+The second species is lower, shorter in the legs and thicker than the
+Atlantic wolf; their colour, which is not affected by the seasons, is of
+every variety of shade, from a gray or blackish brown to a cream
+coloured white. They do not burrow, nor do they bark, but howl, and they
+frequent the woods and plains, and skulk along the skirts of the
+buffaloe herds, in order to attack the weary or wounded.
+
+Captain Clarke and one of the hunters met this evening the largest brown
+bear we have seen. As they fired he did not attempt to attack, but fled
+with a most tremendous roar, and such was its extraordinary tenacity of
+life, that although he had five balls passed through his lungs and five
+other wounds, he swam more than half across the river to a sandbar, and
+survived twenty minutes. He weighed between five and six hundred pounds
+at least, and measured eight feet seven inches and a half from the nose
+to the extremity of the hind feet, five feet ten inches and half round
+the breast, three feet eleven inches round the neck, one foot eleven
+inches round the middle of the foreleg, and his talons, five on each
+foot, were four inches and three eighths in length. It differs from the
+common black bear in having its talons much longer and more blunt; its
+tail shorter; its hair of a reddish or bay brown, longer, finer, and
+more abundant; his liver, lungs, and heart, much larger even in
+proportion to his size, the heart particularly being equal to that of a
+large ox; his maw ten times larger; his testicles pendant from the belly
+and in separate pouches four inches apart: besides fish and flesh he
+feeds on roots, and every kind of wild fruit.
+
+The antelope are now lean and with young, so that they may readily be
+caught at this season, as they cross the river from S.W. to N.E.
+
+Monday 6. The morning being fair and the wind favourable, we set sail,
+and proceeded on very well the greater part of the day. The country
+continues level, rich, and beautiful; the low grounds wide and
+comparatively with the other parts of the Missouri, well supplied with
+wood. The appearances of coal, pumicestone, and burnt earth have ceased,
+though the salts of tartar or vegetable salts continue on the banks and
+sandbars, and sometimes in the little ravines at the base of the low
+hills. We passed three streams on the south; the first at the distance
+of one mile and a half from our camp was about twenty-five yards wide,
+but although it contained some water in standing pools it discharges
+none; this we called Littledry creek, about eight miles beyond which is
+Bigdry creek; fifty yards wide, without any water; the third is six
+miles further, and has the bed of a large river two hundred yards wide,
+yet without a drop of water: like the other two this stream, which we
+called Bigdry river, continues its width undiminished as far as we can
+discern. The banks are low, this channel formed of a fine brown sand,
+intermixed with a small proportion of little pebbles of various colours,
+and the country around flat and without trees. They had recently
+discharged their waters, and from their appearance and the nature of the
+country through which they pass, we concluded that they rose in the
+Black mountains, or in the level low plains which are probably between
+this place and the mountains; that the country being nearly of the same
+kind and of the same latitude, the rains of spring melting the snows
+about the same time, conspire with them to throw at once vast quantities
+of water down these channels, which are then left dry during the summer,
+autumn, and winter, when there is very little rain. We had to-day a
+slight sprinkling. But it lasted a very short time. The game is in such
+plenty that it has become a mere amusement to supply the party with
+provisions. We made twenty-five miles to a clump of trees on the north
+where we passed the night.
+
+Tuesday 7. The morning was pleasant and we proceeded at an early hour.
+There is much driftwood floating, and what is contrary to our
+expectation, although the river is rising, the water is somewhat clearer
+than usual. At eleven o'clock the wind became so high that one of the
+boats was nearly sunk, and we were obliged to stop till one, when we
+proceeded on, and encamped on the south, above a large sandbar
+projecting from the north, having made fifteen miles. On the north side
+of the river are the most beautiful plains we have yet seen: they rise
+gradually from the low grounds on the water to the height of fifty or
+sixty feet, and then extend in an unbroken level as far as the eye can
+reach: the hills on the south are more broken and higher, though at some
+distance back the country becomes level and fertile. There are no more
+appearances of burnt earth, coal, or pumicestone, though that of salt
+still continues, and the vegetation seems to have advanced but little
+since the twenty-eighth of last month: the game is as abundant as usual.
+The bald-eagles, of whom we see great numbers, probably feed on the
+carcases of dead animals, for on the whole Missouri we have seen neither
+the blue-crested fisher, nor the fishing-hawks, to supply them with
+their favourite food, and the water of the river is so turbid that no
+bird which feeds exclusively on fish can procure a subsistence.
+
+Wednesday 8. A light breeze from the east carried us sixteen miles, till
+we halted for dinner at the entrance of a river on the north. Captain
+Clarke who had walked on the south, on ascending a high point opposite
+to its entrance discovered a level and beautiful country which it
+watered; that its course for twelve or fifteen miles was N.W. when it
+divided into two nearly equal branches, one pursuing a direction nearly
+north, the other to the W. of N.W: its width at the entrance is one
+hundred and fifty yards, and on going three miles up, captain Lewis
+found it to be of the same breadth, and sometimes more; it is deep,
+gentle, and has a large quantity of water; its bed is principally of
+mud, the banks abrupt, about twelve feet in height, and formed of a
+dark, rich loam and blue clay; the low grounds near it are wide and
+fertile, and possess a considerable proportion of cottonwood and willow.
+It seems to be navigable for boats and canoes, and this circumstance
+joined to its course and the quantity of water, which indicates that it
+passes through a large extent of country, we are led to presume that it
+may approach the Saskashawan and afford a communication with that river.
+The water has a peculiar whiteness, such as might be produced by a
+tablespoon full of milk in a dish of tea, and this circumstance induced
+us to call it Milk river. In the evening we had made twenty-seven miles,
+and encamped on the south. The country on that side consists in general
+of high broken hills, with much gray, black and brown granite scattered
+over the surface of the ground. At a little distance from the river
+there is no timber on either side, the wood being confined as below to
+the margin of the river; so that unless the contrary is particularly
+mentioned, it is always understood that the upland is perfectly naked,
+and that we consider the low grounds well timbered if even a fifth be
+covered with wood. The wild liquorice is found in great abundance on
+these hills, as is also the white apple. As usual we are surrounded by
+buffaloe, elk, common and blacktailed deer, beaver, antelopes and
+wolves. We observed a place where an Indian had recently taken the hair
+off an antelope's skin, and some of the party thought they distinguished
+imperfectly some smoke and Indian lodges up Milk river, marks which we
+are by no means desirous of realizing, as the Indians are probably
+Assiniboins, and might be very troublesome.
+
+Thursday, 9th. We again had a favourable wind and sailed along very
+well. Between four and five miles we passed a large island in a deep
+bend to the north, and a large sandbar at the upper point. At fifteen
+and a quarter miles we reached the bed of a most extraordinary river
+which presents itself on the south: though as wide as the Missouri
+itself, that is about half a mile, it does not discharge a drop of water
+and contains nothing but a few standing pools. On ascending it three
+miles we found an eminence from which we saw the direction of the
+channel, first south for ten or twelve miles, then turning to the east
+of southeast as far as we could see; it passes through a wide valley
+without timber, and the surrounding country consists of waving low hills
+interspersed with some handsome level plains; the banks are abrupt and
+consist of a black or yellow clay; or of a rich sandy loam, but though
+they do not rise more than six or eight feet above the bed, they exhibit
+no appearance of being overflowed: the bed is entirely composed of a
+light brown sand, the particles of which like those of the Missouri are
+extremely fine. Like the dry rivers we passed before, this seemed to
+have discharged its waters recently, but the watermark indicated that
+its greatest depth had not been more than two feet: this stream, if it
+deserve the name, we called Bigdry river. About a mile below is a large
+creek on the same side, which is also perfectly dry: the mineral salts
+and quartz are in large quantities near this neighbourhood. The sand of
+the Missouri from its mouth to this place has been mixed with a
+substance which we had presumed to be a granulated chalk, but which is
+most probably this quartz. The game is now in great quantities,
+particularly the elk and buffaloe, which last is so gentle that the men
+are obliged to drive them out of the way with sticks and stones. The
+ravages of the beaver are very apparent: in one place the timber was
+entirely prostrated for a space of three acres in front on the river and
+one in depth, and great part of it removed, although the trees were in
+large quantities, and some of them as thick as the body of a man. At the
+distance of twenty-four miles we encamped, after making twenty-five and
+a half miles, at the entrance of a small creek in a bend on the north;
+to which we gave the name of Werner's creek after one of our men.
+
+For several days past the river has been as wide as it generally is near
+its mouth, but as it is much shallower, crowded with sandbars, and the
+colour of the water has become much clearer, we do not yet despair of
+reaching the Rock mountains, for which we are very anxious.
+
+Friday, 10th. We had not proceeded more than four and a quarter miles
+when the violence of the wind forced us to halt for the day under some
+timber in a bend on the south side. The wind continued high, the clouds
+thick and black, and we had a slight sprinkling of rain several times in
+the course of the day. Shortly after our landing a dog came to us, and
+as this induced us to believe that we are near the hunting grounds of
+the Assiniboins, who are a vicious ill-disposed people, it was
+necessary to be on our guard: we therefore inspected our arms which we
+found in good order, and sent several hunters to scour the country, but
+they returned in the evening having seen no tents, nor any recent tracks
+of Indians. Biles and imposthumes are very common among the party, and
+sore eyes continue in a greater or less degree with all of us; for the
+imposthumes we use emollient poultices, and apply to the eyes a solution
+of two grains of white vitriol and one of sugar of lead with one ounce
+of water.
+
+Saturday, 11th. The wind blew very hard in the night, but having abated
+this morning we went on very well, till in the afternoon the wind arose
+and retarded our progress; the current too was strong, the river very
+crooked, and the banks as usual constantly precipitating themselves in
+large masses into the water. The highlands are broken and approach
+nearer the river than they do below. The soil however of both hills and
+low grounds appear as fertile as that further down the river: it
+consists of a black looking loam with a small portion of sand, which
+cover the hills and bluffs to the depth of twenty or thirty feet, and
+when thrown in the water dissolves as readily as loaf-sugar, and
+effervesces like marle; there are also great appearances of quartz and
+mineral salts: the first is most commonly seen in the faces of the
+bluffs, the second is found on the hills as well as the low grounds, and
+in the gullies which come down from the hills; it lies in a crust of two
+or three inches in depth, and may be swept up with a feather in large
+quantities. There is no longer any appearance of coal burnt earth or
+pumicestone. We saw and visited some high hills on the north side about
+three miles from the river, whose tops were covered with the pitch-pine:
+this in the first pine we have seen on the Missouri, and it is like that
+of Virginia, except that the leaves are somewhat longer; among this pine
+is also a dwarf cedar, sometimes between three or four feet high, but
+generally spreading itself like a vine along the surface of the earth,
+which it covers very closely, putting out roots from the under side. The
+fruit and smell resemble those of the common red cedar, but the leaf is
+finer and more delicate. The tops of the hills where these plants grow
+have a soil quite different from that just described, the basis of it is
+usually yellow or white clay, and the general appearance light coloured,
+sandy, and barren, some scattering tufts of sedge being almost its only
+herbage. About five in the afternoon one of our men who had been
+afflicted with biles, and suffered to walk on shore, came running to the
+boats with loud cries and every symptom of terror and distress: for some
+time after we had taken him on board he was so much out of breath as to
+be unable to describe the cause of his anxiety, but he at length told us
+that about a mile and a half below he had shot a brown bear which
+immediately turned and was in close pursuit of him; but the bear being
+badly wounded could not overtake him. Captain Lewis with seven men
+immediately went in search of him, and having found his track followed
+him by the blood for a mile, and found him concealed in some thick
+brushwood, and shot him with two balls through the skull. Though
+somewhat smaller than that killed a few days ago, he was a monstrous
+animal and a most terrible enemy: our man had shot him through the
+centre of the lungs, yet he had pursued him furiously for half a mile,
+then returned more than twice that distance, and with his talons had
+prepared himself a bed in the earth two feet deep and five feet long,
+and was perfectly alive when they found him, which was at least two
+hours after he received the wound. The wonderful power of life which
+these animals possess render them dreadful: their very track in the mud
+or sand, which we have sometimes found eleven inches long and seven and
+a quarter wide, exclusive of the talons, is alarming; and we had rather
+encounter two Indians than meet a single brown bear. There is no chance
+of killing them by a single shot unless the ball goes through the
+brains, and this is very difficult on account of two large muscles
+which cover the side of the forehead, and the sharp projection of the
+centre of the frontal bone, which is also thick. Our encampment was on
+the south at the distance of sixteen miles from that of last night; the
+fleece and skin of the bear were a heavy burden for two men, and the oil
+amounted to eight gallons.
+
+Sunday, 12th. The weather being clear and calm, we set out early. Within
+a mile we came to a small creek, about twenty yards wide, emptying
+itself on the south. At eleven and three quarter miles we reached a
+point of woodland on the south, opposite to which is a creek of the same
+width as the last, but with little water, which we called Pine creek. At
+eighteen and three quarter miles we came to on the south opposite to the
+lower point of a willow island, situated in a deep bend of the river to
+the southeast: here we remained during the day, the wind having risen at
+twelve so high that we could not proceed: it continued to blow violently
+all night, with occasional sprinklings of rain from sunset till
+midnight. On both sides of the river the country is rough and broken,
+the low grounds becoming narrower; the tops of the hills on the north
+exhibits some scattered pine and cedar, on the south the pine has not
+yet commenced, though there is some cedar on the sides of the hills and
+in the little ravines. The chokecherry, the wild hysop, sage,
+fleshy-leafed thorn, and particularly the aromatic herb on which the
+antelope and hare feed, are to be found on the plains and hills. The
+soil of the hills has now altered its texture considerably: their bases,
+like that of the river plains, is as usual a rich, black loam, while
+from the middle to the summits they are composed of a light
+brown-coloured earth, poor and sterile, and intermixed with a coarse
+white sand.
+
+Monday, 13th. The wind was so strong that we could not proceed till
+about one o'clock, when we had to encounter a current rather stronger
+than usual. In the course of a mile and a half we passed two small
+creeks on the south, one of eighteen the other of thirty yards width,
+but neither of them containing any water, and encamped on the south at a
+point of woodland, having made only seven miles. The country is much the
+same as yesterday, with little timber in the low grounds, and a small
+quantity of pine and cedar on the northern hills. The river however
+continues to grow clearer, and this as well as the increased rapidity
+induces us to hope for some change of country. The game is as usual so
+abundant that we can get without difficulty all that is necessary.
+
+Tuesday, 14th. There was some fog on the river this morning, which is a
+very rare occurrence. At the distance of a mile and a half we reached an
+island in a bend on the north, which continued for about half a mile,
+when at the head of it a large creek comes in on the north, to which we
+gave the name of Gibson's creek. At seven and a half miles is a point of
+rocks on the south, above a creek on the same side, which we called
+Sticklodge creek: five miles further is a large creek on the south,
+which like the two others has no running water; and at sixteen and a
+half miles a timbered point on the north, where we encamped for the
+night. The country is like that of yesterday, except that the low
+grounds are wider; there are also many high black bluffs along the
+banks: the game too is in great abundance. Towards evening the men in
+the hindmost canoes discovered a large brown bear lying in the open
+grounds, about three hundred paces from the river: six of them, all good
+hunters, immediately went to attack him, and concealing themselves by a
+small eminence came unperceived within forty paces of him: four of the
+hunters now fired, and each lodged a ball in his body, two of them
+directly through the lungs: the furious animal sprung up and ran
+openmouthed upon them; as he came near, the two hunters who had reserved
+their fire gave him two wounds, one of which breaking his shoulder
+retarded his motion for a moment; but before they could reload he was so
+near that they were obliged to run to the river, and before they
+reached it he had almost overtaken them: two jumped into the canoe; the
+other four separated, and concealing themselves in the willows fired as
+fast as each could reload: they struck him several times, but instead of
+weakening the monster each shot seemed only to direct him towards the
+hunter, till at last he pursued two of them so closely, that they threw
+aside their guns and pouches, and jumped down a perpendicular bank of
+twenty feet into the river; the bear sprang after them, and was within a
+few feet of the hindmost, when one of the hunters on shore shot him in
+the head and finally killed him: they dragged him to the shore, and
+found that eight balls had passed through him in different directions;
+the bear was old and the meat tough, so that they took the skin only,
+and rejoined us at camp, where we had been as much terrified by an
+accident of a different kind. This was the narrow escape of one of our
+canoes containing all our papers, instruments, medicine, and almost
+every article indispensible for the success of our enterprise. The canoe
+being under sail, a sudden squall of wind struck her obliquely, and
+turned her considerably. The man at the helm, who was unluckily the
+worst steersman of the party, became alarmed, and instead of putting her
+before the wind luffed her up into it. The wind was so high that it
+forced the brace of the squaresail out of the hand of the man who was
+attending it, and instantly upset the canoe, which would have turned
+bottom upwards but for the resistance made by the awning. Such was the
+confusion on board, and the waves ran so high, that it was half a minute
+before she righted, and then nearly full of water, but by baling out she
+was kept from sinking until they rowed ashore; besides the loss of the
+lives of three men who not being able to swim would probably have
+perished, we should have been deprived of nearly every thing necessary
+for our purpose, at a distance of between two and three thousand miles
+from any place where we could supply the deficiency.
+
+Wednesday 15. As soon as a slight shower of rain had passed, we spread
+out the articles to dry; but the weather was so damp and cloudy that
+they derived little benefit from exposure. Our hunters procured us deer,
+buffaloe, and beaver.
+
+Thursday 16. The morning was fair and we were enabled to dry and repack
+our stores: the loss we sustained is chiefly in the medicines, many
+articles of which are completely spoiled, and others considerably
+injured. At four o'clock we embarked, and after making seven miles
+encamped on the north near some wood: the country on both sides is
+broken, the low grounds narrower and with less timber, though there are
+some scattered pine and cedar on the steep declivities of the hills,
+which are now higher than usual. A white bear tore the coat of one of
+the men which he had left on shore; and two of the party wounded a large
+panther who was feasting on a deer. We caught some lean antelopes as
+they were swimming the river, and killed two buffaloe.
+
+Friday 17. We set out early and proceeded on very well; the banks being
+firm and the shore bold we were enabled to use the towline, which,
+whenever the banks will permit it, is the safest and most expeditious
+mode of ascending the river, except under a sail with a steady breeze.
+At the distance of ten and a half miles we came to the mouth of a small
+creek on the south, below which the hills approach the river, and
+continue near it during the day: three miles further is a large creek on
+the north, and again six and three quarter miles beyond it, another
+large creek to the south, which contain a small quantity of running
+water of a brackish taste. The last we called Rattlesnake creek from our
+seeing that animal near it. Although no timber can be observed on it
+from the Missouri, it throws out large quantities of driftwood, among
+which were some pieces of coal brought down by the stream. We continued
+on one mile and a quarter, and encamped on the south, after making
+twenty and a half miles. The country in general is rugged, the hills
+high, with their summits and sides partially covered with pine and
+cedar, and their bases on both sides washed by the river: like those
+already mentioned the lower part of these hills is a dark rich loam,
+while the upper region for one hundred and fifty feet consists of a
+whitish brown sand, so hard as in many places to resemble stone, though
+in fact very little stone or rock of any kind is to be seen on the
+hills. The bed of the Missouri is much narrower than usual, being not
+more than between two and three hundred yards in width, with an
+uncommonly large proportion of gravel; but the sandbars, and low points
+covered with willows have almost entirely disappeared: the timber on the
+river consists of scarcely any thing more than a few scattered
+cottonwood trees. The saline incrustations along the banks and the foot
+of the hills are more abundant than usual. The game is in great
+quantities, but the buffaloe are not so numerous as they were some days
+ago: two rattlesnakes were seen to-day, and one of them killed: it
+resembles those of the middle Atlantic states, being about two feet six
+inches long, of a yellowish brown on the back and sides, variegated with
+a row of oval dark brown spots lying transversely on the back from the
+neck to the tail, and two other rows of circular spots of the same
+colour on the sides along the edge of the scuta: there are one hundred
+and seventy-six scuta on the belly, and seventeen on the tail. Captain
+Clarke saw in his excursions a fortified Indian camp which appeared to
+have been recently occupied, and was, we presumed, made by a party of
+Minnetarees who went to war last March.
+
+Late at night we were roused by the sergeant of the guard in consequence
+of a fire which had communicated to a tree overhanging our camp. The
+wind was so high, that we had not removed the camp more than a few
+minutes when a large part of the tree fell precisely on the spot it had
+occupied, and would have crushed us if we had not been alarmed in time.
+
+Saturday 18. The wind continued high from the west, but by means of the
+towline we were able to make nineteen miles, the sandbars being now few
+in number, the river narrow and the current gentle; the willow has in a
+great measure disappeared, and even the cottonwood, almost the only
+timber remaining, is growing scarce. At twelve and three quarter miles
+we came to a creek on the north, which was perfectly dry. We encamped on
+the south opposite the lower point of an island.
+
+Sunday 19. The last night was disagreeably cold; and in the morning
+there was a very heavy fog which obscured the river so much as to
+prevent our seeing the way. This is the first fog of any degree of
+thickness which we have experienced: there was also last evening a fall
+of dew, the second which we have seen since entering this extensive open
+country. About eight o'clock the fog dispersed, and we proceeded with
+the aid of the towline: the island near which we were encamped, was
+three quarters of a mile in length. The country resembles that of
+yesterday, high hills closely bordering the river. In the afternoon the
+river became crooked, and contained more sawyers or floating timber than
+we have seen in the same space since leaving the Platte. Our game
+consisted of deer, beaver, and elk: we also killed a brown bear, who,
+although shot through the heart, ran at his usual pace nearly a quarter
+of a mile before he fell. At twenty-one miles is a willow island half a
+mile in length, on the north side, a quarter of a mile beyond which is a
+shoal of rapid water under a bluff: the water continued very strong for
+some distance beyond it: at half a mile we came to a sandbar on the
+north, from which to our place of encampment was another half mile,
+making in all twenty-two and a quarter miles. The saline substances
+which we have mentioned continue to appear; and the men are much
+afflicted with sore eyes and imposthumes.
+
+Monday 20. As usual we set out early, and the banks being convenient for
+that purpose, we used the towline: the river is narrow and crooked, the
+water rapid, and the country much like that of yesterday: at the
+distance of two and a quarter miles we passed a large creek with but
+little water, to which we gave the name of Blowingfly creek, from the
+quantity of those insects found in its neighbourhood. They are extremely
+troublesome, infesting our meat whilst cooking and at our meals. After
+making seven miles we reached by eleven o'clock the mouth of a large
+river on the south, and encamped for the day at the upper point of its
+junction with the Missouri. This stream which we suppose to be that
+called by the Minnetarees the Muscleshell river, empties into the
+Missouri two thousand two hundred and seventy miles above the mouth of
+the latter river, and in latitude 47° 0' 24" 6 north. It is one hundred
+and ten yards wide, and contains more water than streams of that size
+usually do in this country; its current is by no means rapid, and there
+is every appearance of its being susceptible of navigation by canoes for
+a considerable distance: its bed is chiefly formed of coarse sand and
+gravel, with an occasional mixture of black mud; the banks abrupt and
+nearly twelve feet high, so that they are secure from being overflowed:
+the water is of a greenish yellow cast and much more transparent than
+that of the Missouri, which itself, though clearer than below, still
+retains its whitish hue and a portion of its sediment. Opposite to the
+point of junction the current of the Missouri is gentle, and two hundred
+and twenty-two yards in width, the bed principally of mud (the little
+sand remaining being wholly confined to the points) and still too deep
+to use the setting pole. If this be, as we suppose, the Muscleshell, our
+Indian information is, that it rises in the first chain of the Rocky
+mountains not far from the sources of the Yellowstone, whence in its
+course to this place it waters a high broken country, well timbered
+particularly on its borders, and interspersed with handsome fertile
+plains and meadows. We have reason, however, to believe, from their
+giving a similar account of the timber where we now are, that the
+timber of which they speak is similar to that which we have seen for a
+few days past, which consists of nothing more than a few straggling
+small pine and dwarf cedar, on the summits of the hills, nine-tenths of
+the ground being totally destitute of wood, and covered with a short
+grass, aromatic herbs, and an immense quantity of prickly pears: though
+the party who explored it for eight miles represented low grounds on the
+river as well supplied with cottonwood of a tolerable size, and of an
+excellent soil. They also reported that the country is broken and
+irregular like that near our camp; that about five miles up a handsome
+river about fifty yards wide, which we named after Chaboneau's wife,
+Sahcajahweah, or Birdwoman's river, discharges itself into the
+Muscleshell on the north or upper side. Another party found at the foot
+of the southern hills, about four miles from the Missouri, a fine bold
+spring, which in this country is so rare that since we left the Mandans
+we have found only one of a similar kind, and that was under the bluffs
+on the south side of the Missouri, at some distance from it, and about
+five miles below the Yellowstone: with this exception all the small
+fountains of which we have met a number are impregnated with the salts
+which are so abundant here, and with which the Missouri is itself most
+probably tainted, though to us who have been so much accustomed to it,
+the taste is not perceptible. Among the game to-day we observed two
+large owls, with remarkably long feathers resembling ears on the sides
+of the head, which we presume are the hooting owls, though they are
+larger and their colours are brighter than those common in the United
+States.
+
+Tuesday 21. The morning being very fine we were able to employ the rope
+and made twenty miles to our camp on the north. The shores of the river
+are abrupt, bold and composed of a black and yellow clay, the bars being
+formed of black mud, and a small proportion of fine sand; the current
+strong. In its course the Missouri makes a sudden and extensive bend
+towards the south, to receive the waters of the Muscleshell. The neck of
+land thus formed, though itself high is lower than the surrounding
+country, and makes a waving valley extending for a great distance to the
+northward, with a fertile soil which, though without wood, produces a
+fine turf of low grass, some herbs and vast quantities of prickly pear.
+The country on the south is high, broken, and crowned with some pine and
+dwarf cedar; the leaf of this pine is longer than that of the common
+pitch or red pine of Virginia, the cone is longer and narrower, the
+imbrications wider and thicker, and the whole frequently covered with
+rosin. During the whole day the bends of the river are short and sudden;
+and the points covered with some cottonwood, large or broad leaved
+willow, and a small quantity of redwood; the undergrowth consisting of
+wild roses, and the bushes of the small honeysuckle.
+
+The mineral appearances on the river are as usual. We do not find the
+grouse or prairie hen so abundant as below, and think it probable that
+they retire from the river to the plains during this season.
+
+The wind had been moderate during the fore part of the day, but
+continued to rise towards evening, and about dark veered to northeast,
+and blew a storm all night. We had encamped on a bar on the north,
+opposite the lower point of an island, which from this circumstance we
+called Windy island; but we were so annoyed by clouds of dust and sand
+that we could neither eat nor sleep, and were forced to remove our camp
+at eight o'clock to the foot of an adjoining hill, which shielded us in
+some degree from the wind: we procured elk, deer, and buffaloe.
+
+Wednesday 22. The wind blew so violently that it was deemed prudent to
+wait till it had abated, so that we did not leave the camp till ten
+o'clock, when we proceeded principally by the towline. We passed Windy
+island which is about three quarters of a mile in length: and five and a
+half miles above it a large island in a bend to the north: three miles
+beyond this we came to the entrance of a creek twenty yards wide, though
+with little water, which we called Grouse creek, from observing near its
+mouth a quantity of the prairie hen with pointed tails, the first we
+have seen in such numbers for several days: the low grounds are somewhat
+wider than usual and apparently fertile, though the short and scanty
+grass on the hills does not indicate much richness of soil. The country
+around is not so broken as that of yesterday, but is still waving, the
+southern hills possessing more pine than usual, and some appearing on
+the northern hills, which are accompanied by the usual salt and mineral
+appearances.
+
+The river continues about two hundred and fifty yards wide, with fewer
+sandbars, and the current more gentle and regular. Game is no longer in
+such abundance, since leaving the Muscleshell. We have caught very few
+fish on this side of the Mandans, and these were the white catfish of
+two to five pounds. We killed a deer and a bear: we have not seen in
+this quarter the black bear, common in the United States and on the
+lower parts of the Missouri, nor have we discerned any of their tracks,
+which may easily be distinguished by the shortness of its talons from
+the brown, grizzly, or white bear, all of which seem to be of the same
+family, which assumes those colours at different seasons of the year. We
+halted earlier than usual, and encamped on the north, in a point of
+woods, at the distance of sixteen and a half miles.
+
+
+
+
+                                CHAPTER IX.
+
+     The party continue their route--description of Judith river--Indian
+     mode of taking the buffaloe--Slaughter river described--phenomena
+     of nature--of walls on the banks of the Missouri--the party encamp
+     on the banks of the river to ascertain which of the streams
+     constitute the Missouri--captain Lewis leaves the party to explore
+     the northern fork, and captain Clarke explores the southern--the
+     surrounding country described in the route of captain Lewis--narrow
+     escape of one of his party.
+
+
+Thursday 23. Last night the frost was severe, and this morning the ice
+appeared along the edges of the river, and the water froze on our oars.
+At the distance of a mile we passed the entrance of a creek on the
+north, which we named Teapot creek; it is fifteen yards wide, and
+although it has running water at a small distance from its mouth, yet it
+discharges none into the Missouri, resembling, we believe, most of the
+creeks in this hilly country, the waters of which are absorbed by the
+thirsty soil near the river. They indeed afford but little water in any
+part, and even that is so strongly tainted with salts that it is unfit
+for use, though all the wild animals are very fond of it. On experiment
+it was found to be moderately purgative, but painful to the intestines
+in its operation. This creek seems to come from a range of low hills,
+which run from east to west for seventy miles, and have their eastern
+extremity thirty miles to the north of Teapot creek. Just above its
+entrance is a large assemblage of the burrowing squirrels on the north
+side of the river. At nine miles we reached the upper point of an island
+in a bend on the south, and opposite the centre of the island, a small
+dry creek on the north. Half a mile further a small creek falls in on
+the same side; and six and a half miles beyond this another on the
+south. At four and a half we passed a small island in a deep bend to
+the north, and on the same side in a deep northeastern bend of the river
+another small island. None of these creeks however possessed any water,
+and at the entrances of the islands, the two first are covered with tall
+cottonwood timber, and the last with willows only. The river has become
+more rapid, the country much the same as yesterday, except that there is
+rather more rocks on the face of the hills, and some small spruce pine
+appears among the pitch. The wild roses are very abundant and now in
+bloom; they differ from those of the United States only in having the
+leaves and the bush itself of a somewhat smaller size. We find the
+musquitoes troublesome, notwithstanding the coolness of the morning. The
+buffaloe is scarce to-day, but the elk, deer, and antelope, are very
+numerous. The geese begin to lose the feathers of the wings, and are
+unable to fly. We saw five bears, one of which we wounded, but in
+swimming from us across the river, he become entangled in some driftwood
+and sank. We formed our camp on the north opposite to a hill and a point
+of wood in a bend to the south, having made twenty-seven miles.
+
+Friday 24. The water in the kettles froze one eighth of an inch during
+the night; the ice appears along the margin of the river, and the
+cottonwood trees which have lost nearly all their leaves by the frost,
+are putting forth other buds. We proceeded with the line principally
+till about nine o'clock, when a fine breeze sprung up from the S.E. and
+enabled us to sail very well, notwithstanding the rapidity of the
+current. At one mile and a half is a large creek thirty yards wide, and
+containing some water which it empties on the north side, over a
+gravelly bed, intermixed with some stone. A man who was sent up to
+explore the country returned in the evening, after having gone ten miles
+directly towards the ridge of mountains to the north, which is the
+source of this as well as of Teapot creek. The air of these highlands is
+so pure, that objects appear much nearer than they really are, so that
+although our man went ten miles without thinking himself by any means
+half way to the mountains, they do not from the river appear more than
+fifteen miles distant; this stream we called Northmountain creek. Two
+and a half miles higher is a creek on the south which is fifteen yards
+wide, but without any water, and to which we gave the name of Littledog
+creek, from a village of burrowing squirrels opposite to its entrance,
+that being the name given by the French watermen to those animals. Three
+miles from this a small creek enters on the north, five beyond which is
+an island a quarter of a mile in length, and two miles further a small
+river: this falls in on the south, is forty yards wide, and discharges a
+handsome stream of water; its bed rocky with gravel and sand, and the
+banks high: we called it Southmountain creek, as from its direction it
+seemed to rise in a range of mountains about fifty or sixty miles to the
+S.W. of its entrance. The low grounds are narrow and without timber; the
+country high and broken; a large portion of black rock, and brown sandy
+rock appears in the face of the hills, the tops of which are covered
+with scattered pine, spruce and dwarf cedar: the soil is generally poor,
+sandy near the tops of the hills, and nowhere producing much grass, the
+low grounds being covered with little else than the hysop, or southern
+wood, and the pulpy-leafed thorn. Game is more scarce, particularly
+beaver, of which we have seen but few for several days, and the
+abundance or scarcity of which seems to depend on the greater or less
+quantity of timber. At twenty-four and a half miles we reached a point
+of woodland on the south, where we observed that the trees had no
+leaves, and encamped for the night. The high country through which we
+have passed for some days, and where we now are, we suppose to be a
+continuation of what the French traders called the Cote Noire or Black
+hills. The country thus denominated consists of high broken irregular
+hills and short chains of mountains; sometimes one hundred and twenty
+miles in width, sometimes narrower, but always much higher than the
+country on either side. They commence about the head of the Kanzas,
+where they diverge; the first ridge going westward, along the northern
+shore of the Arkansaw; the second approaches the Rock mountains
+obliquely in a course a little to the W. of N.W. and after passing the
+Platte above its forks, and intersecting the Yellowstone near the
+Bigbend, crosses the Missouri at this place, and probably swell the
+country as far as the Saskashawan, though as they are represented much
+smaller here than to the south, they may not reach that river.
+
+Saturday, 25th. Two canoes which were left behind yesterday to bring on
+the game, did not join us till eight o'clock this morning, when we set
+out with the towline, the use of which the banks permitted. The wind
+was, however, ahead, the current strong, particularly round the points
+against which it happened to set, and the gullies from the hills having
+brought down quantities of stone, those projected into the river,
+forming barriers for forty or fifty feet round, which it was very
+difficult to pass. At the distance of two and three quarter miles we
+passed a small island in a deep bend on the south, and on the same side
+a creek twenty yards wide, but with no running water. About a mile
+further is an island between two and three miles in length, separated
+from the northern shore by a narrow channel, in which is a sand island
+at the distance of half a mile from its lower extremity. To this large
+island we gave the name of Teapot island; two miles above which is an
+island a mile long, and situated on the south. At three and a half miles
+is another small island, and one mile beyond it a second three quarters
+of a mile in length, on the north side. In the middle of the river two
+miles above this is an island with no timber, and of the same extent as
+this last. The country on each side is high, broken, and rocky; the rock
+being either a soft brown sandstone, covered with a thin stratum of
+limestone, or else a hard black rugged granite, both usually in
+horizontal stratas, and the sandrock overlaying the other. Salts and
+quartz as well as some coal and pumicestone still appear: the bars of
+the river are composed principally of gravel; the river low grounds are
+narrow, and afford scarcely any timber; nor is there much pine on the
+hills. The buffaloe have now become scarce: we saw a polecat this
+evening, which was the first for several days: in the course of the day
+we also saw several herds of the big-horned animals among the steep
+cliffs on the north, and killed several of them. At the distance of
+eighteen miles we encamped on the south, and the next morning,
+
+Sunday, 26th, proceeded on at an early hour by means of the towline,
+using our oars merely in passing the river, to take advantage of the
+best banks. There are now scarcely any low grounds on the river, the
+hills being high and in many places pressing on both sides to the verge
+of the water. The black rock has given place to a very soft sandstone,
+which seems to be washed away fast by the river, and being thrown into
+the river renders its navigation more difficult than it was yesterday:
+above this sandstone, and towards the summits of the hills, a hard
+freestone of a yellowish brown colour shows itself in several stratas of
+unequal thickness, frequently overlaid or incrusted by a thin stratum of
+limestone, which seems to be formed of concreted shells. At eight and a
+quarter miles we came to the mouth of a creek on the north, thirty yards
+wide, with some running water and a rocky bed: we called it Windsor
+creek, after one of the party. Four and three quarter miles beyond this
+we came to another creek in a bend to the north, which is twenty yards
+wide, with a handsome little stream of water: there is however no timber
+on either side of the river, except a few pines on the hills. Here we
+saw for the first time since we left the Mandans several soft shelled
+turtles, though this may be owing rather to the season of the year than
+to any scarcity of the animal. It was here that after ascending the
+highest summits of the hills on the north side of the river, that
+captain Lewis first caught a distant view of the Rock mountains, the
+object of all our hopes, and the reward of all our ambition. On both
+sides of the river and at no great distance from it, the mountains
+followed its course: above these, at the distance of fifty miles from
+us, an irregular range of mountains spread themselves from west to
+northwest from his position. To the north of these a few elevated
+points, the most remarkable of which bore north 65° west, appeared above
+the horizon, and as the sun shone on the snows of their summits he
+obtained a clear and satisfactory view of those mountains which close on
+the Missouri the passage to the Pacific. Four and a half miles beyond
+this creek we came to the upper point of a small sand island. At the
+distance of five miles between high bluffs, we passed a very difficult
+rapid, reaching quite across the river, where the water is deep, the
+channel narrow, and gravel obstructing it on each side: we had great
+difficulty in ascending it, although we used both the rope and the pole,
+and doubled the crews: this is the most considerable rapid on the
+Missouri, and in fact the only place where there is a sudden descent: as
+we were labouring over them, a female elk with its fawn swam down
+through the waves, which ran very high, and obtained for the place the
+name of the Elk Rapids. Just above them is a small low ground of
+cottonwood trees, where, at twenty-two and a quarter miles we fixed our
+encampment, and were joined by captain Lewis, who had been on the hills
+during the afternoon.
+
+The country has now become desert and barren: the appearances of coal,
+burnt earth, pumicestone, salts, and quartz, continue as yesterday: but
+there is no timber except the thinly scattered pine and spruce on the
+summits of the hills, or along the sides. The only animals we have
+observed are the elk, the bighorn, and the hare, common in this country.
+In the plain where we lie are two Indian cabins made of sticks, and
+during the last few days we have passed several others in the points of
+timber on the river.
+
+Monday, 27. The wind was so high that we did not start till ten o'clock,
+and even then were obliged to use the line during the greater part of
+the day. The river has become very rapid with a very perceptible
+descent: its general width is about two hundred yards: the shoals too
+are more frequent, and the rocky points at the mouth of the gullies more
+troublesome to pass: great quantities of this stone lie in the river and
+on its banks, and seem to have fallen down as the rain washed away the
+clay and sand in which they were imbedded. The water is bordered by high
+rugged bluffs, composed of irregular but horizontal stratas of yellow
+and brown or black clay, brown and yellowish white sand, soft yellowish
+white sandstone: hard dark brown freestone; and also large round kidney
+formed irregular separate masses of a hard black ironstone, imbedded in
+the clay and sand; some coal or carbonated wood also makes its
+appearance in the cliffs, as do also its usual attendants the
+pumicestone and burnt earth. The salts and quartz are less abundant, and
+generally speaking the country is if possible more rugged and barren
+than that we passed yesterday; the only growth of the hills being a few
+pine, spruce, and dwarf cedar, interspersed with an occasional contrast
+once in the course of some miles, of several acres of level ground,
+which supply a scanty subsistence for a few little cottonwood trees.
+
+Soon after setting out we passed a small untimbered island on the south:
+at about seven miles we reached a considerable bend which the river
+makes towards the southeast, and in the evening, after making twelve and
+a half miles, encamped on the south near two dead cottonwood trees, the
+only timber for fuel which we could discover in the neighbourhood.
+
+Tuesday, 28. The weather was dark and cloudy; the air smoky, and there
+fell a few drops of rain. At ten o'clock we had again a slight
+sprinkling of rain, attended with distant thunder, which is the first we
+have heard since leaving the Mandans. We employed the line generally,
+with the addition of the pole at the ripples and rocky points, which we
+find more numerous and troublesome than those we passed yesterday. The
+water is very rapid round these points, and we are sometimes obliged to
+steer the canoes through the points of sharp rocks rising a few inches
+above the surface of the water, and so near to each other that if our
+ropes give way the force of the current drives the sides of the canoe
+against them, and must inevitably upset them or dash them to pieces.
+These cords are very slender, being almost all made of elkskin, and much
+worn and rotted by exposure to the weather: several times they gave way,
+but fortunately always in places where there was room for the canoe to
+turn without striking the rock; yet with all our precautions it was with
+infinite risk and labour that we passed these points. An Indian pole for
+building floated down the river, and was worn at one end as if dragged
+along the ground in travelling; several other articles were also brought
+down by the current, which indicate that the Indians are probably at no
+great distance above us, and judging from a football which resembles
+those used by the Minnetarees near the Mandans, we conjecture that they
+must be a band of the Minnetarees of fort de Prairie. The appearance of
+the river and the surrounding country continued as usual, till towards
+evening, at about fifteen miles, we reached a large creek on the north
+thirty-five yards wide, discharging some water, and named after one of
+our men Thompson's creek. Here the country assumed a totally different
+aspect; the hills retired on both sides from the river, which now
+spreads to more than three times its former size, and is filled with a
+number of small handsome islands covered with cottonwood. The low
+grounds on the river are again wide, fertile, and enriched with trees;
+those on the north are particularly wide, the hills being comparatively
+low and opening into three large vallies, which extend themselves for a
+considerable distance towards the north: these appearances of vegetation
+are delightful after the dreary hills over which we have passed, and we
+have now to congratulate ourselves at having escaped from the last
+ridges of the Black mountains. On leaving Thompson's creek we passed two
+small islands, and at twenty-three miles distance encamped among some
+timber on the north, opposite to a small creek, which we named Bull
+creek. The bighorn is in great quantities, and must bring forth their
+young at a very early season, as they are now half grown. One of the
+party saw a large bear also, but being at a distance from the river, and
+having no timber to conceal him, he would not venture to fire.
+
+Wednesday, 29. Last night we were alarmed by a new sort of enemy. A
+buffaloe swam over from the opposite side and to the spot where lay one
+of our canoes, over which he clambered to the shore: then taking fright
+he ran full speed up the bank towards our fires, and passed within
+eighteen inches of the heads of some of the men, before the sentinel
+could make him change his course: still more alarmed he ran down between
+four fires and within a few inches of the heads of the second row of the
+men, and would have broken into our lodge if the barking of the dog had
+not stopped him. He suddenly turned to the right and was out of sight in
+a moment, leaving us all in confusion, every one seizing his rifle and
+inquiring the cause of the alarm. On learning what had happened, we had
+to rejoice at suffering no more injury than the damage to some guns
+which were in the canoe which the buffaloe crossed.
+
+In the morning early we left our camp, and proceeded as usual by the
+cord. We passed an island and two sandbars, and at the distance of two
+and a half miles we came to a handsome river which discharges itself on
+the south, and which we ascended to the distance of a mile and a half:
+we called it Judith's river: it rises in the Rock mountains in about
+the same place with the Muscleshell and near the Yellowstone river. Its
+entrance is one hundred yards wide from one bank to the other, the water
+occupying about seventy-five yards, and in greater quantity than that of
+the Muscleshell river, and though more rapid equally navigable, there
+being no stones or rocks in the bed, which is composed entirely of
+gravel and mud with some sand: the water too is clearer than any which
+we have yet seen; and the low grounds, as far as we could discern, wider
+and more woody than those of the Missouri: along its banks we observed
+some box-alder intermixed with the cottonwood and the willow; the
+undergrowth consisting of rosebushes, honeysuckle, and a little red
+willow. There was a great abundance of the argalea or bighorned animals
+in the high country through which it passes, and a great number of the
+beaver in its waters: just above the entrance of it we saw the fires of
+one hundred and twenty-six lodges, which appeared to have been deserted
+about twelve or fifteen days, and on the other side of the Missouri a
+large encampment, apparently made by the same nation. On examining some
+moccasins which we found there, our Indian woman said that they did not
+belong to her own nation the Snake Indians, but she thought that they
+indicated a tribe on this side of the Rocky mountain, and to the north
+of the Missouri; indeed it is probable that these are the Minnetarees of
+fort de Prairie. At the distance of six and a half miles the hills again
+approach the brink of the river, and the stones and rocks washed down
+from them form a very bad rapid, with rocks and ripples more numerous
+and difficult than those we passed on the 27th and 28th; here the same
+scene was renewed, and we had again to struggle and labour to preserve
+our small craft from being lost. Near this spot are a few trees of the
+ash, the first we have seen for a great distance, and from which we
+named the place Ash Rapids. On these hills there is but little timber,
+but the salts, coal, and other mineral appearances continue. On the
+north we passed a precipice about one hundred and twenty feet high,
+under which lay scattered the fragments of at least one hundred carcases
+of buffaloes, although the water which had washed away the lower part of
+the hill must have carried off many of the dead. These buffaloe had been
+chased down the precipice in a way very common on the Missouri, and by
+which vast herds are destroyed in a moment. The mode of hunting is to
+select one of the most active and fleet young men, who is disguised by a
+buffaloe skin round his body; the skin of the head with the ears and
+horns fastened on his own head in such a way as to deceive the buffaloe:
+thus dressed, he fixes himself at a convenient distant between a herd of
+buffaloe and any of the river precipices, which sometimes extend for
+some miles. His companions in the meantime get in the rear and side of
+the herd, and at a given signal show themselves, and advance towards the
+buffaloe: they instantly take the alarm, and finding the hunters beside
+them, they run towards the disguised Indian or decoy, who leads them on
+at full speed toward the river, when suddenly securing himself in some
+crevice of the cliff which he had previously fixed on, the herd is left
+on the brink of the precipice: it is then in vain for the foremost to
+retreat or even to stop; they are pressed on by the hindmost rank, who
+seeing no danger but from the hunters, goad on those before them till
+the whole are precipitated and the shore is strewn with their dead
+bodies. Sometimes in this perilous seduction the Indian is himself
+either trodden under root by the rapid movements of the buffaloe, or
+missing his footing in the cliff is urged down the precipice by the
+falling herd. The Indians then select as much meat as they wish, and the
+rest is abandoned to the wolves, and create a most dreadful stench. The
+wolves who had been feasting on these carcases were very fat, and so
+gentle that one of them was killed with an esponton. Above this place we
+came to for dinner at the distance of seventeen miles, opposite to a
+bold running river of twenty yards wide, and falling in on the south.
+From the objects we had just passed we called this stream Slaughter
+river. Its low grounds are narrow, and contain scarcely any timber. Soon
+after landing it began to blow and rain, and as there was no prospect of
+getting wood for fuel farther on, we fixed our camp on the north, three
+quarters of a mile above Slaughter river. After the labours of the day
+we gave to each man a dram, and such was the effect of long abstinence
+from spirituous liquors, that from the small quantity of half a gill of
+rum, several of the men were considerably affected by it, and all very
+much exhilirated. Our game to-day consisted of an elk and two beaver.
+
+Thursday, 30. The rain which commenced last evening continued with
+little intermission till eleven this morning, when the high wind which
+accompanied it having abated, we set out. More rain has now fallen than
+we have had since the 1st of September last, and many circumstances
+indicate our approach to a climate differing considerably from that of
+the country through which we have been passing: the air of the open
+country is astonishingly dry and pure. Observing that the case of our
+sextant, though perfectly seasoned, shrank and the joints opened, we
+tried several experiments, by which it appeared that a tablespoon full
+of water exposed in a saucer to the air would evaporate in thirty-six
+hours, when the mercury did not stand higher than the temperate point at
+the greatest heat of the day. The river, notwithstanding the rain, is
+much clearer than it was a few days past; but we advance with great
+labour and difficulty; the rapid current, the ripples and rocky points
+rendering the navigation more embarrassing than even that of yesterday,
+in addition to which the banks are now so slippery after the rain, that
+the men who draw the canoes can scarcely walk, and the earth and stone
+constantly falling down the high bluffs make it dangerous to pass under
+them; still however we are obliged to make use of the cord, as the wind
+is strong ahead, the current too rapid for oars, and too deep for the
+pole. In this way we passed at the distance of five and a half miles a
+small rivulet in a bend on the north, two miles further an island on the
+same side, half a mile beyond which came to a grove of trees at the
+entrance of a run in a bend to the south, and encamped for the night on
+the northern shore. The eight miles which we made to-day cost us much
+trouble. The air was cold and rendered more disagreeable by the rain,
+which fell in several slight showers in the course of the day; our cords
+too broke several times, but fortunately without injury to the boats. On
+ascending the hills near the river, one of the party found that there
+was snow mixed with the rain on the heights: a little back of these the
+country becomes perfectly level on both sides of the river. There is now
+no timber on the hills, and only a few scattering cottonwood, ash,
+box-alder, and willows, along the water. In the course of the day we
+passed several encampments of Indians, the most recent of which seemed
+to have been evacuated about five weeks since, and from the several
+apparent dates we supposed that they were made by a band of about one
+hundred lodges who were travelling slowly up the river. Although no part
+of the Missouri from the Minnetarees to this place exhibit signs of
+permanent settlements, yet none seem exempt from the transient visits of
+hunting parties. We know that the Minnetarees of the Missouri extend
+their excursions on the south side of the river, as high as the
+Yellowstone; and the Assiniboins visit the northern side, most probably
+as high as Porcupine river. All the lodges between that place and the
+Rocky mountains we supposed to belong to the Minnetarees of fort de
+Prairie, who live on the south fork of the Saskashawan.
+
+Friday, 31. We proceeded in two periogues, leaving the canoes to bring
+on the meat of two buffaloes killed last evening. Soon after we set off
+it began to rain, and though it ceased at noon, the weather continued
+cloudy during the rest of the day. The obstructions of yesterday still
+remain and fatigue the men excessively: the banks are so slippery in
+some places and the mud so adhesive that they are unable to wear their
+moccasins; one fourth of the time they are obliged to be up to their
+armpits in the cold water, and sometimes walk for several yards over the
+sharp fragments of rocks which have fallen from the hills: all this
+added to the burden of dragging the heavy canoes is very painful, yet
+the men bear it with great patience and good humour. Once the rope of
+one of the periogues, the only one we had made of hemp, broke short, and
+the periogue swung and just touched a point of rock which almost overset
+her. At nine miles we came to a high wall of black rock rising from the
+water's edge on the south, above the cliffs of the river: this continued
+about a quarter of a mile, and was succeeded by a high open plain, till
+three miles further a second wall two hundred feet high rose on the same
+side. Three miles further a wall of the same kind about two hundred feet
+high and twelve in thickness, appeared to the north: these hills and
+river cliffs exhibit a most extraordinary and romantic appearance: they
+rise in most places nearly perpendicular from the water, to the height
+of between two and three hundred feet, and are formed of very white
+sandstone, so soft as to yield readily to the impression of water, in
+the upper part of which lie imbedded two or three thin horizontal
+stratas of white freestone insensible to the rain, and on the top is a
+dark rich loam, which forms a gradually ascending plain, from a mile to
+a mile and a half in extent, when the hills again rise abruptly to the
+height of about three hundred feet more. In trickling down the cliffs,
+the water has worn the soft sandstone into a thousand grotesque figures,
+among which with a little fancy may be discerned elegant ranges of
+freestone buildings, with columns variously sculptured, and supporting
+long and elegant galleries, while the parapets are adorned with
+statuary: on a nearer approach they represent every form of elegant
+ruins; columns, some with pedestals and capitals entire, others
+mutilated and prostrate, and some rising pyramidally over each other
+till they terminate in a sharp point. These are varied by niches,
+alcoves, and the customary appearances of desolated magnificence: the
+allusion is increased by the number of martins, who have built their
+globular nests in the niches and hover over these columns; as in our
+country they are accustomed to frequent large stone structures. As we
+advance there seems no end to the visionary enchantment which surrounds
+us. In the midst of this fantastic scenery are vast ranges of walls,
+which seem the productions of art, so regular is the workmanship: they
+rise perpendicularly from the river, sometimes to the height of one
+hundred feet, varying in thickness from one to twelve feet, being
+equally broad at the top as below. The stones of which they are formed
+are black, thick, and durable, and composed of a large portion of earth,
+intermixed and cemented with a small quantity of sand, and a
+considerable proportion of talk or quartz. These stones are almost
+invariably regular parallelipeds of unequal sizes in the wall, but
+equally deep, and laid regularly in ranges over each other like bricks,
+each breaking and covering the interstice of the two on which it rests:
+but though the perpendicular interstice be destroyed, the horizontal one
+extends entirely through the whole work: the stones too are proportioned
+to the thickness of the wall in which they are employed, being largest
+in the thickest walls. The thinner walls are composed of a single depth
+of the paralleliped, while the thicker ones consist of two or more
+depths: these walls pass the river at several places, rising from the
+water's edge much above the sandstone bluffs which they seem to
+penetrate; thence they cross in a straight line on either side of the
+river, the plains over which they tower to the height of from ten to
+seventy feet, until they lose themselves in the second range of hills:
+sometimes they run parallel in several ranges near to each other,
+sometimes intersect each other at right angles, and have the appearance
+of walls of ancient houses or gardens.
+
+The face of some of these river hills, is composed of very excellent
+freestone of a light yellowish brown colour, and among the cliffs we
+found a species of pine which we had not yet seen, and differing from
+the Virginia pitchpine in having a shorter leaf, and a longer and more
+pointed cone. The coal appears only in small quantities, as do the burnt
+earth and pumicestone: the mineral salts have abated. Among the animals
+are a great number of the bighorn, a few buffaloe and elk, and some
+mule-deer, but none of the common deer nor any antelopes. We saw but
+could not procure a beautiful fox, of a colour varied with orange,
+yellow, white, and black, rather smaller than the common fox of this
+country, and about the same size as the red fox of the United States.
+
+The river to-day has been from about one hundred and fifty to two
+hundred and fifty yards wide, with but little timber. At the distance of
+two miles and a half from the last stone wall, is a stream on the north
+side, twenty-eight yards in width, and with some running water. We
+encamped just above its mouth having made eighteen miles.
+
+Saturday, June 1. The weather was cloudy with a few drops of rain. As we
+proceeded by the aid of our cord we found the river cliffs and bluffs
+not so high as yesterday, and the country more level. The timber too is
+in greater abundance on the river, though there is no wood on the high
+ground; coal however appears in the bluffs. The river is from two
+hundred to two hundred and fifty feet wide, the current more gentle, the
+water becoming still clearer and fewer rocky points and shoals than we
+met yesterday, though those which we did encounter were equally
+difficult to pass. Game is by no means in such plenty as below; all that
+we obtained were one bighorn, and a mule-deer though we saw in the
+plains a quantity of buffaloe, particularly near a small lake about
+eight miles from the river to the south. Notwithstanding the wind was
+ahead all day, we dragged the canoes along the distance of twenty-three
+miles. At fourteen and a quarter miles, we came to a small island
+opposite a bend of the river to the north: two and a half miles to the
+upper point of a small island on the north; five miles to another island
+on the south side and opposite to a bluff. In the next two miles we
+passed an island on the south, a second beyond it on the north, and
+reached near a high bluff on the north a third on which we encamped. In
+the plains near the river are the chokecherry, yellow and red
+currant-bushes, as well as the wild rose and prickly pear, both of which
+are now in bloom. From the tops of the river hills, which are lower than
+usual, we enjoyed a delightful view of the rich fertile plains on both
+sides, in many places extending from the river cliffs to a great
+distance back. In these plains we meet occasionally large banks of pure
+sand, which were driven apparently by the southwest winds, and there
+deposited. The plains are more fertile some distance from the river than
+near its banks, where the surface of the earth is very generally strewed
+with small pebbles, which appear to be smoothed and worn by the
+agitation of the waters with which they were no doubt once covered. A
+mountain or part of the North mountain approaches the river within eight
+or ten miles, bearing north from our encampment of last evening; and
+this morning a range of high mountains bearing S.W. from us and
+apparently running to the westward, are seen at a great distance covered
+with snow. In the evening we had a little more rain.
+
+Sunday 2. The wind blew violently last night, and a slight shower of
+rain fell, but this morning was fair. We set out at an early hour, and
+although the wind was ahead by means of the cord went on much better
+than for the last two days, as the banks were well calculated for
+towing. The current of the river is strong but regular, its timber
+increases in quantity, the low grounds become more level and extensive,
+and the bluffs on the river are lower than usual. In the course of the
+day we had a small shower of rain, which lasted a few minutes only. As
+the game is very abundant we think it necessary to begin a collection
+of hides for the purpose of making a leathern boat, which we intend
+constructing shortly. The hunters who were out the greater part of the
+day brought in six elk, two buffaloe, two mule-deer and a bear. This
+last animal had nearly cost us the lives of two of our hunters who were
+together when he attacked them: one of them narrowly escaped being
+caught, and the other after running a considerable distance, concealed
+himself in some thick bushes, and while the bear was in quick pursuit of
+his hiding place, his companion came up and fortunately shot the animal
+through the head.
+
+At six and at half miles we reached an island on the northern side; one
+mile and a quarter thence is a timbered low ground on the south: and in
+the next two and three quarter miles we passed three small islands, and
+came to a dark bluff on the south: within the following mile are two
+small islands on the same side. At three and a quarter miles we reached
+the lower part of a much larger island near a northern point, and as we
+coasted along its side, within two miles passed a smaller island, and
+half a mile above reached the head of another. All these islands are
+small, and most of them contain some timber. Three quarters of a mile
+beyond the last, and at the distance of eighteen miles from our
+encampment, we came to for the night in a handsome low cottonwood plain
+on the south, where we remained for the purpose of making some celestial
+observations during the night, and of examining in the morning a large
+river which comes in opposite to us. Accordingly at an early hour,
+
+Monday, 3d, we crossed and fixed our camp in the point, formed by the
+junction of the river with the Missouri. It now became an interesting
+question which of these two streams is what the Minnetarees call
+Ahmateahza or the Missouri, which they described as approaching very
+near to the Columbia. On our right decision much of the fate of the
+expedition depends; since if after ascending to the Rocky mountains or
+beyond them, we should find that the river we were following did not
+come near the Columbia, and be obliged to return; we should not only
+lose the travelling season, two months of which had already elapsed, but
+probably dishearten the men so much as to induce them either to abandon
+the enterprise, or yield us a cold obedience instead of the warm and
+zealous support which they had hitherto afforded us. We determined,
+therefore, to examine well before we decided on our future course; and
+for this purpose despatched two canoes with three men up each of the
+streams with orders to ascertain the width, depth, and rapidity of the
+current, so as to judge of their comparative bodies of water. At the
+same time parties were sent out by land to penetrate the country, and
+discover from the rising grounds, if possible, the distant bearings of
+the two rivers; and all were directed to return towards evening. While
+they were gone we ascended together the high grounds in the fork of
+these two rivers, whence we had a very extensive prospect of the
+surrounding country: on every side it was spread into one vast plain
+covered with verdure, in which innumerable herds of buffaloe were
+roaming, attended by their enemies the wolves: some flocks of elk also
+were seen, and the solitary antelopes were scattered with their young
+over the face of the plain. To the south was a range of lofty mountains,
+which we supposed to be a continuation of the South mountain, stretching
+themselves from southeast to northwest, and terminating abruptly about
+southwest from us. These were partially covered with snow; but at a
+great distance behind them was a more lofty ridge completely covered
+with snow, which seemed to follow the same direction as the first,
+reaching from west to the north of northwest, where their snowy tops
+were blended with the horizon. The direction of the rivers could not
+however be long distinguished, as they were soon lost in the extent of
+the plain. On our return we continued our examination; the width of the
+north branch is two hundred yards, that of the south is three hundred
+and seventy-two. The north, although narrower and with a gentler
+current, is deeper than the south: its waters too are of the same
+whitish brown colour, thickness, and turbidness: they run in the same
+boiling and rolling manner which has uniformly characterized the
+Missouri; and its bed is composed of some gravel, but principally mud.
+The south fork is deeper, but its waters are perfectly transparent: its
+current is rapid, but the surface smooth and unruffled; and its bed too
+is composed of round and flat smooth stones like those of rivers issuing
+from a mountainous country. The air and character of the north fork so
+much resemble those of the Missouri that almost all the party believe
+that to be the true course to be pursued. We however, although we have
+given no decided opinion, are inclined to think otherwise, because,
+although this branch does give the colour and character to the Missouri,
+yet these very circumstances induce an opinion that it rises in and runs
+through an open plain country, since if it came from the mountains it
+would be clearer, unless, which from the position of the country is
+improbable, it passed through a vast extent of low ground after leaving
+them: we thought it probable that it did not even penetrate the Rocky
+mountains, but drew it sources from the open country towards the lower
+and middle parts of the Saskashawan, in a direction north of this place.
+What embarrasses us most is, that the Indians who appeared to be well
+acquainted with the geography of the country, have not mentioned this
+northern river; for "the river which scolds at all others," as it is
+termed, must be according to their account one of the rivers which we
+have passed; and if this north fork be the Missouri, why have they not
+designated the south branch which they must also have passed, in order
+to reach the great falls which they mention on the Missouri. In the
+evening our parties returned, after ascending the rivers in canoes for
+some distance, then continuing on foot, just leaving themselves time to
+return by night. The north fork was less rapid, and therefore afforded
+the easiest navigation: the shallowest water of the north was five feet
+deep, that of the south six feet. At two and a half miles up the north
+fork is a small river coming in on the left or western side, sixty feet
+wide, with a bold current three feet in depth. The party by land had
+gone up the south fork in a straight line, somewhat north of west for
+seven miles, where they discovered that this little river came within
+one hundred yards of the south fork, and on returning down it found it a
+handsome stream, with as much timber as either of the larger rivers,
+consisting of the narrow and wide-leafed cottonwood, some birch and
+box-alder, amid undergrowth of willows, rosebushes, and currants: they
+also saw on this river a great number of elk and some beaver.
+
+All these accounts were however very far from deciding the important
+question of our future route, and we therefore determined each of us to
+ascend one of the rivers during a day and a half's march, or farther if
+necessary, for our satisfaction. Our hunters killed two buffaloe, six
+elk, and four deer to-day. Along the plains near the junction, are to be
+found the prickly pear in great quantities; the chokecherry is also very
+abundant in the river low grounds, as well as the ravines along the
+river bluffs; the yellow and red currants are not yet ripe; the
+gooseberry is beginning to ripen, and the wildrose which now covers all
+the low grounds near the rivers is in full bloom. The fatigues of the
+last few days have occasioned some falling off in the appearance of the
+men, who not having been able to wear moccasins, had their feet much
+bruised and mangled in passing over the stones and rough ground. They
+are however perfectly cheerful, and have an undiminished ardour for the
+expedition.
+
+Tuesday, June 4. At the same hour this morning captain Lewis and captain
+Clarke set out to explore the two rivers: captain Lewis with six men
+crossed the north fork near the camp, below a small island from which
+he took a course N. 30° W. for four and a half miles to a commanding
+eminence. Here we observed that the North mountain, changing its
+direction parallel to the Missouri, turned towards the north and
+terminated abruptly at the distance of about thirty miles, the point of
+termination bearing N. 48° E. The South mountain too diverges to the
+south, and terminates abruptly, its extremity bearing S. 8° W. distant
+about twenty miles: to the right of, and retreating from this extremity,
+is a separate mountain at the distance of thirty-five miles in a
+direction S. 38° W. which from its resemblance to the roof of a barn, we
+called the Barn mountain. The north fork, which is now on the left,
+makes a considerable bend to the northwest, and on its western border a
+range of hills about ten miles long, and bearing from this spot N. 60°
+W. runs parallel with it: north of this range of hills is an elevated
+point of the river bluff on its south side, bearing N. 72° W. about
+twelve miles from us; towards this he directed his course across a high,
+level, dry open plain; which in fact embraces the whole country to the
+foot of the mountains. The soil is dark, rich, and fertile, yet the
+grass by no means so luxuriant as might have been expected, for it is
+short and scarcely more than sufficient to cover the ground. There are
+vast quantities of prickly pears, and myriads of grasshoppers, which
+afford food for a species of curlew which is in great numbers in the
+plain. He then proceeded up the river to the point of observation they
+had fixed on; from which he went two miles N. 15° W. to a bluff point on
+the north side of the river: thence his course was N. 30° W. for two
+miles to the entrance of a large creek on the south. The part of the
+river along which he passed is from forty to sixty yards wide, the
+current strong, the water deep and turbid, the banks falling in, the
+salts, coal and mineral appearances are as usual, and in every respect,
+except as to size, this river resembles the Missouri. The low grounds
+are narrow but well supplied with wood: the bluffs are principally of
+dark brown yellow, and some white clay with freestone in some places.
+From this point the river bore N. 20° E. to a bluff on the south, at the
+distance of twelve miles: towards this he directed his course, ascending
+the hills which are about two hundred feet high, and passing through
+plains for three miles, till he found the dry ravines so steep and
+numerous that he resolved to return to the river and follow its banks.
+He reached it about four miles from the beginning of his course, and
+encamped on the north in a bend among some bushes which sheltered the
+party from the wind: the air was very cold, the northwest wind high, and
+the rain wet them to the skin. Besides the game just mentioned, he
+observed buffaloe, elk, wolves, foxes, and we got a blaireau and a
+weasel, and wounded a large brown bear, whom it was too late to pursue.
+Along the river are immense quantities of roses which are now in full
+bloom, and which make the low grounds a perfect garden.
+
+Wednesday 5. The rain fell during the greater part of the last night,
+and in the morning the weather was cloudy and cold, with a high
+northwest wind: at sunrise he proceeded up the river eight miles to the
+bluff on the left side, towards which he had been directing his course
+yesterday. Here he found the bed of a creek twenty-five yards wide at
+the entrance, with some timber, but no water, notwithstanding the rain:
+it is, indeed, astonishing to observe the vast quantities of water
+absorbed by the soil of the plains, which being opened in large crevices
+presents a fine rich loam: at the mouth of this stream (which he called
+Lark creek) the bluffs are very steep and approach the river so that he
+ascended them, and crossing the plains reached the river, which from the
+last point bore N. 50° W: four miles from this place it extended north
+two miles. Here he discovered a lofty mountain standing alone at the
+distance of more than eighty miles in the direction of N. 30° W. and
+which from its conical figure he called Tower mountain. He then
+proceeded on these two hills and afterwards in different courses six
+miles, when he again changed for a western course across a deep bend
+along the south side: in making this passage over the plains he found
+them like those of yesterday, level and beautiful, with great quantities
+of buffaloes, and some wolves, foxes, and antelopes, and intersected
+near the river by deep ravines. Here at the distance of from one to nine
+miles from the river, he met the largest village of barking squirrels
+which we had yet seen: for he passed a skirt of their territory for
+seven miles. He also saw near the hills a flock of the mountain cock or
+a large species of heath hen with a long pointed tail, which the Indians
+below had informed us were common among the Rock mountains. Having
+finished his course of ten miles west across a bend, he continued two
+miles N. 80° W. and from that point discovered some lofty mountains to
+the northwest of Tower mountain and bearing N. 65° W. at eighty or one
+hundred miles distance: Here he encamped on the north side in a handsome
+low ground, on which were several old stick lodges: there had been but
+little timber on the river in the forepart of the day, but now there is
+a greater quantity than usual. The river itself is about eighty yards
+wide, from six to ten feet deep, and has a strong steady current. The
+party had killed five elk, and a mule-deer; and by way of experiment
+roasted the burrowing squirrels, which they found to be well flavoured
+and tender.
+
+Thursday 6. Captain Lewis was now convinced that this river pursued a
+direction too far north for our route to the Pacific, and therefore
+resolved to return; but waited till noon to take a meridian altitude.
+The clouds, however, which had gathered during the latter part of the
+night continued and prevented the observation: part of the men were sent
+forward to a commanding eminence, six miles S. 70° W; from which they
+saw at the distance of about fifteen miles S. 80° W. a point of the
+south bluff of the river, which thence bore northwardly. In their
+absence two rafts had been prepared, and when they returned about noon,
+the party embarked: but they soon found that the rafts were so small and
+slender that the baggage was wet, and therefore it was necessary to
+abandon them, and go by land. They therefore crossed the plains, and at
+the distance of twelve miles came to the river, through a cold storm
+from the northeast, accompanied by showers of rain. The abruptness of
+the cliffs compelled them, after going a few miles, to leave the river
+and meet the storm in the plains. Here they directed their course too
+far northward, in consequence of which they did not meet the river till
+late at night, after having travelled twenty-three miles since noon, and
+halted at a little below the entrance of Lark creek. They had the good
+fortune to kill two buffaloe which supplied them with supper, but spent
+a very uncomfortable night without any shelter from the rain, which
+continued till morning,
+
+Friday 7, when at an early hour they continued down the river. The route
+was extremely unpleasant, as the wind was high from the N.E. accompanied
+with rain, which made the ground so slippery that they were unable to
+walk over the bluffs which they had passed on ascending the river. The
+land is the most thirsty we have ever seen; notwithstanding all the rain
+which has fallen, the earth is not wet for more than two inches deep,
+and resembles thawed ground; but if it requires more water to saturate
+it than the common soils, on the other hand it yields its moisture with
+equal difficulty. In passing along the side of one of these bluffs at a
+narrow pass thirty yards in length, captain Lewis slipped, and but for a
+fortunate recovery, by means of his espontoon, would then have been
+precipitated into the river over a precipice of about ninety feet. He
+had just reached a spot where by the assistance of his espontoon he
+could stand with tolerable safety, when he heard a voice behind him cry
+out, good God captain what shall I do? he turned instantly and found it
+was Windsor who had lost his foothold about the middle of the narrow
+pass, and had slipped down to the very verge of the precipice where he
+lay on his belly, with his right arm and leg over the precipice, while
+with the other leg and arm he was with difficulty holding on to keep
+himself from being dashed to pieces below. His dreadful situation was
+instantly perceived by captain Lewis, who stifling his alarm, calmly
+told him that he was in no danger; that he should take his knife out of
+his belt with the right hand, and dig a hole in the side of the bluff to
+receive his right foot. With great presence of mind he did this, and
+then raised himself on his knees; captain Lewis then told him to take
+off his moccasins and come forward on his hands and knees, holding the
+knife in one hand and his rifle in the other. He immediately crawled in
+this way till he came to a secure spot. The men who had not attempted
+this passage, were ordered to return and wade the river at the foot of
+the bluff, where they found the water breast high. This adventure taught
+them the danger of crossing the slippery heights of the river; but as
+the plains were intersected by deep ravines almost as difficult to pass,
+they continued down the river, sometimes in the mud of the low grounds,
+sometimes up to their arms in the water, and when it became too deep to
+wade, they cut footholds with their knives in the sides of the banks. In
+this way they travelled through the rain, mud, and water, and having
+made only eighteen miles during the whole day, encamped in an old Indian
+lodge of sticks, which afforded them a dry shelter. Here they cooked
+part of six deer they had killed in the course of their walk, and having
+eaten the only morsel they had tasted during the whole day slept
+comfortably on some willow boughs.
+
+
+
+
+                                CHAPTER X.
+
+     Return of captain Lewis--Account of captain Clarke's researches
+     with his exploring party--Perilous situation of one of his
+     party--Tansy river described--The party still believing the
+     southern fork the Missouri, captain Lewis resolves to ascend
+     it--Mode of making a place to deposit provisions, called
+     cache--Captain Lewis explores the southern fork--Falls of the
+     Missouri discovered, which ascertains the question--Romantic
+     scenery of the surrounding country--Narrow escape of captain
+     Lewis--The main body under captain Clarke approach within five
+     miles of the falls, and prepare for making a portage over the
+     rapids.
+
+
+Saturday 8. It continued to rain moderately all last night, and the
+morning was cloudy till about ten o'clock, when it cleared off, and
+became a fine day. They breakfasted about sunrise and then proceeded
+down the river in the same way as they had done yesterday, except that
+the travelling was somewhat better, as they had not so often to wade,
+though they passed some very dangerous bluffs. The only timber to be
+found is in the low grounds which are occasionally on the river, and
+these are the haunts of innumerable birds, who, when the sun began to
+shine, sang very delightfully. Among these birds they distinguished the
+brown thrush, robin, turtledove, linnet, goldfinch, the large and small
+blackbird, the wren, and some others. As they came along, the whole of
+the party were of opinion that this river was the true Missouri, but
+captain Lewis being fully persuaded that it was neither the main stream,
+nor that which it would be advisable to ascend, gave it the name of
+Maria's river. After travelling all day they reached the camp at five
+o'clock in the afternoon, and found captain Clarke and the party very
+anxious for their safety, as they had staid two days longer than had
+been expected, and as captain Clarke had returned at the appointed time,
+it was feared that they had met with some accident.
+
+Captain Clarke on setting out with five men on the 4th, went seven
+miles on a course S. 25° W. to a spring; thence he went S. 20° W. for
+eight miles to the river where was an island, from which he proceeded in
+a course N. 45° W. and approached the river at the distance of three,
+five, and thirteen miles, at which place they encamped in an old Indian
+lodge made of sticks and bark. In crossing the plains they observed
+several herds of buffaloe, some muledeer, antelopes and wolves. The
+river is rapid and closely hemmed in by high bluffs, crowded with bars
+of gravel, with little timber on the low grounds, and none on the
+highlands. Near the camp this evening, a white bear attacked one of the
+men, whose gun happening to be wet, would not go off; he instantly made
+towards a tree, but was so closely pursued, that as he ascended the tree
+he struck the bear with his foot. The bear not being able to climb,
+waited till he should be forced to come down; and as the rest of the
+party were separated from him by a perpendicular cliff of rocks, which
+they could not descend, it was not in their power to give him any
+assistance: fortunately however at last the bear became frighted at
+their cries and firing, and released the man. In the afternoon it
+rained, and during the night there fell both rain and snow, and in the
+morning.
+
+June 5, the hills to the S.E. were covered with snow, and the rain
+continued. They proceeded on in a course N. 20° W. near the river
+several miles, till at the distance of eleven miles they reached a
+ridge, from the top of which on the north side they could plainly
+discern a mountain to the S. and W. at a great distance covered with
+snow; a high ridge projecting from the mountains to the southeast
+approaches the river on the southeast side, forming some cliffs of dark
+hard stone. They also saw that the river ran for a great distance west
+of south, with a rapid current, from which as well as its continuing of
+the same width and depth, captain Clarke thought it useless to advance
+any further, and therefore returned across the level plain in a
+direction north 30° east, and reached at the distance of twenty miles
+the little river which is already mentioned as falling into the north
+fork, and to which they gave the name of Tansy river, from the great
+quantity of that herb growing on its banks. Here they dined, and then
+proceeded on a few miles by a place where the Tansy breaks through a
+high ridge on its north side and encamped.
+
+The next day, 6th, the weather was cold, raw and cloudy, with a high
+northeast wind. They set out early, down the Tansy, whose low grounds
+resemble precisely, except as to extent, those of the Missouri before it
+branches, containing a great proportion of a species of cottonwood, with
+a leaf like that of the wild cherry. After halting at twelve o'clock for
+dinner, they ascended the plain, and at five o'clock reached the camp
+through the rain, which had fallen without intermission since noon.
+During his absence the party had been occupied in dressing skins, and
+being able to rest themselves were nearly freed from their lameness and
+swollen feet. All this night and the whole of the following day, 7th, it
+rained, the wind being from the southwest off the mountains: yet the
+rivers are falling, and the thermometer 40° above 0. The rain continued
+till the next day, 8th, at ten o'clock, when it cleared off, and the
+weather became fine, the wind high from the southwest. The rivers at the
+point have now fallen six inches since our arrival, and this morning the
+water of the south fork became of a reddish brown colour, while the
+north branch continued of its usual whitish appearance. The mountains to
+the south are covered with snow.
+
+Sunday, 9th. We now consulted upon the course to be pursued. On
+comparing our observations, we were more than ever convinced of what we
+already suspected, that Mr. Arrowsmith is incorrect in laying down in
+the chain of Rocky mountains one remarkable mountain called the Tooth,
+nearly as far south as 45°, and said to be so marked from the
+discoveries of Mr. Fidler. We are now within one hundred miles of the
+Rocky* mountains and in the latitude of 47° 24' 12" 8, and therefore it
+is highly improbable that the Missouri should make such a bend to the
+south before it reaches the Rocky mountains, as to have suffered Mr.
+Fidler to come as low as 45° along the eastern borders without touching
+that river: yet the general course of Maria's river from this place for
+fifty-nine miles, as far as captain Lewis ascended, was north 69° west,
+and the south branch, or what we consider the Missouri, which captain
+Clarke had examined as far as forty-five miles in a straight line, ran
+in a course south 29° west, and as far as it could be seen went
+considerably west of south, whence we conclude that the Missouri itself
+enters the Rocky mountains to the north of 45°. In writing to the
+president from our winter quarters, we had already taken the liberty of
+advancing the southern extremity of Mr. Fidler's discoveries about a
+degree to the northward, and this from Indian information as to the
+bearing of the point at which the Missouri enters the mountain; but we
+think actual observation will place it one degree still further to the
+northward. This information of Mr. Fidler however, incorrect as it is,
+affords an additional reason for not pursuing Maria's river; for if he
+came as low even as 47° and saw only small streams coming down from the
+mountains, it is to be presumed that these rivulets do not penetrate the
+Rocky mountains so far as to approach any navigable branch of the
+Columbia, and they are most probably the remote waters of some northern
+branch of the Missouri. In short, being already in latitude 47° 24' we
+cannot reasonably hope by going farther to the northward to find between
+this place and the Saskashawan any stream which can, as the Indians
+assure us the Missouri does, possess a navigable current for some
+distance in the Rocky mountains: the Indians had assured us also that
+the water of the Missouri was nearly transparent at the falls; this is
+the case with the southern branch; that the falls lay a little to the
+south of sunset from them; this too is in favour of the southern fork,
+for it bears considerably south of this place which is only a few
+minutes to the northward of fort Mandan; that the falls are below the
+Rocky mountains and near the northern termination of one range of those
+mountains: now there is a ridge of mountains which appear behind the
+South mountains and terminates to the southwest of us, at a sufficient
+distance from the unbroken chain of the Rocky mountains to allow space
+for several falls, indeed we fear for too many of them. If too the
+Indians had ever passed any stream as large as this southern fork on
+their way up the Missouri, they would have mentioned it; so that their
+silence seems to prove that this branch must be the Missouri. The body
+of water also which it discharges must have been acquired from a
+considerable distance in the mountains, for it could not have been
+collected in the parched plains between the Yellowstone and the Rocky
+mountains, since that country could not supply nourishment for the dry
+channels which we passed on the south, and the travels of Mr. Fidler
+forbid us to believe that it could have been obtained from the mountains
+towards the northwest.
+
+These observations which satisfied our mind completely we communicated
+to the party: but every one of them were of a contrary opinion; and much
+of their belief depended on Crusatte, an experienced waterman on the
+Missouri, who gave it as his decided judgment that the north fork was
+the genuine Missouri. The men therefore mentioned that although they
+would most cheerfully follow us wherever we should direct, yet they were
+afraid that the south fork would soon terminate in the Rocky mountains
+and leave us at a great distance from the Columbia. In order that
+nothing might be omitted which could prevent our falling into an error,
+it was agreed that one of us should ascend the southern branch by land
+until we reached either the falls or the mountains. In the meantime in
+order to lighten our burdens as much as possible, we determined to
+deposit here one of the periogues and all the heavy baggage which we
+could possibly spare, as well as some provision, salt, powder, and
+tools: this would at once lighten the other boats, and give them the
+crew which had been employed on board the periogue.
+
+Monday, 10. The weather being fair and pleasant we dried all our baggage
+and merchandize and made our deposit. These holes or _caches_ as they
+are called by the Missouri traders are very common, particularly among
+those who deal with the Sioux, as the skins and merchandize will keep
+perfectly sound for years, and are protected from robbery: our cache is
+built in this manner: In the high plain on the north side of the
+Missouri and forty yards from a steep bluff, we chose a dry situation,
+and then describing a small circle of about twenty inches diameter,
+removed the sod as gently and carefully as possible: the hole is then
+sunk perpendicularly for a foot deep, or more if the ground be not firm.
+It is now worked gradually wider as they descend, till at length it
+becomes six or seven feet deep, shaped nearly like a kettle or the lower
+part of a large still with the bottom somewhat sunk at the centre. As
+the earth is dug it is handed up in a vessel and carefully laid on a
+skin or cloth, in which it is carried away and usually thrown into the
+river or concealed so as to leave no trace of it. A floor of three or
+four inches in thickness is then made of dry sticks, on which is thrown
+hay or a hide perfectly dry. The goods being well aired and dried are
+laid on this floor, and prevented from touching the wall by other dried
+sticks in proportion as the merchandize is stowed away: when the hole is
+nearly full, a skin is laid over the goods, and on this earth is thrown
+and beaten down until with the addition of the sod first removed the
+whole is on a level with the ground, and there remains not the slightest
+appearance of an excavation. In addition to this we made another of
+smaller dimensions, in which we placed all the baggage, some powder,
+and our blacksmith's tools, having previously repaired such of the tools
+we carry with us as require mending. To guard against accident, we hid
+two parcels of lead and powder in the two distinct places. The red
+periogue was drawn up on the middle of a small island at the entrance of
+Maria's river, and secured by being fastened to the trees from the
+effect of any floods. In the evening there was a high wind from the
+southwest accompanied with thunder and rain. We now made another
+observation of the meridian altitude of the sun, and found that the mean
+latitude of the entrance of Maria's river, as deduced from three
+observations, is 47° 25' 17" 2 north. We saw a small bird like the blue
+thrush or catbird which we had not before met, and also observed that
+the beemartin or kingbird is common to this country although there are
+no bees here, and in fact we have not met with the honey-bee since
+leaving the Osage river.
+
+Tuesday 11. This morning captain Lewis with four men set out on their
+expedition up the south branch. They soon reached the point where the
+Tansy river approaches the Missouri, and observing a large herd of elk
+before them, descended and killed several which they hung up along the
+river so that the party in the boats might see them as they came along.
+They then halted for dinner; but captain Lewis who had been for some
+days afflicted with the dysentery, was now attacked with violent pains
+attended by a high fever and was unable to go on. He therefore encamped
+for the night under some willow boughs: having brought no medicine he
+determined to try an experiment with the small twigs of the chokecherry,
+which being stripped of their leaves and cut into pieces about two
+inches long were boiled in pure water, till they produced a strong black
+decoction of an astringent bitter taste; a pint of this he took at
+sunset, and repeated the dose an hour afterwards. By ten o'clock he was
+perfectly relieved from pain, a gentle perspiration ensued, his fever
+abated and in the morning he was quite recovered. One of the men caught
+several dozen fish of two species: the first is about nine inches long,
+of a white colour, round in shape; the mouth is beset both above and
+below with a rim of fine sharp teeth, the eye moderately large, the
+pupil dark, and the iris narrow, and of a yellowish brown colour: in
+form and size it resembles the white chub of the Potomac, though its
+head is proportionably smaller; they readily bite at meat or
+grasshoppers; but the flesh though soft and of a fine white colour is
+not highly flavoured. The second species is precisely of the form and
+about the size of the fish known by the name of the hickory shad or old
+wife, though it differs from it in having the outer edge of both the
+upper and lower jaw set with a rim of teeth, and the tongue and palate
+also are defended by long sharp teeth bending inwards, the eye is very
+large, the iris wide and of a silvery colour; they do not inhabit muddy
+water, and the flavour is much superior to that of the former species.
+Of the first kind we had seen a few before we reached Maria's river; but
+had found none of the last before we caught them in the Missouri above
+its junction with that river. The white cat continues as high as Maria's
+river, but they are scarce in this part of the river, nor have we caught
+any of them since leaving the Mandans which weighed more than six
+pounds.
+
+Of other game they saw a great abundance even in their short march of
+nine miles.
+
+Wednesday 12. This morning captain Lewis left the bank of the river in
+order to avoid the steep ravines which generally run from the shore to
+the distance of one or two miles in the plain: having reached the opened
+country he went for twelve miles in a course a little to the west of
+southwest, when the sun becoming warm by nine o'clock, he returned to
+the river in quest of water and to kill something for breakfast, there
+being no water in the plain, and the buffaloe discovering them before
+they came within gunshot took to flight. They reached the banks in a
+handsome open low ground with cottonwood, after three miles walk. Here
+they saw two large brown bears, and killed them both at the first fire,
+a circumstance which has never before occurred since we have seen that
+animal. Having made a meal of a part and hung the remainder on a tree
+with a note for captain Clarke, they again ascended the bluffs into the
+open plains. Here they saw great numbers of the burrowing squirrel, also
+some wolves, antelopes, muledeer, and vast herds of buffaloe. They soon
+crossed a ridge considerably higher than the surrounding plains, and
+from its top had a beautiful view of the Rocky mountains, which are now
+completely covered with snow: their general course is from southeast to
+the north of northwest, and they seem to consist of several ranges which
+successively rise above each other till the most distant mingles with
+the clouds. After travelling twelve miles they again met the river,
+where there was a handsome plain of cottonwood; and although it was not
+sunset, and they had only come twenty-seven miles, yet captain Lewis
+felt weak from his late disorder, and therefore determined to go no
+further that night. In the course of the day they killed a quantity of
+game, and saw some signs of otter as well as beaver, and many tracks of
+the brown bear: they also caught great quantities of the white fish
+mentioned yesterday. With the broad-leafed cottonwood, which has formed
+the principal timber of the Missouri, is here mixed another species
+differing from the first only in the narrowness of its leaf and the
+greater thickness of its bark. The leaf is long, oval, acutely pointed,
+about two and a half or three inches long and from three quarters of an
+inch to an inch in width; it is smooth and thick sometimes slightly
+grooved or channeled with the margin a little serrate, the upper disk of
+a common, the lower of a whitish green. This species seems to be
+preferred by the beaver to the broad-leaved, probably because the former
+affords a deeper and softer bark.
+
+Thursday 13. They left their encampment at sunrise, and ascending the
+river hills went for six miles in a course generally southwest, over a
+country which though more waving than that of yesterday may still be
+considered level. At the extremity of this course they overlooked a most
+beautiful plain, where were infinitely more buffaloe than we had ever
+before seen at a single view. To the southwest arose from the plain two
+mountains of a singular appearance and more like ramparts of high
+fortifications than works of nature. They are square figures with sides
+rising perpendicularly to the height of two hundred and fifty feet,
+formed of yellow clay, and the tops seemed to be level plains. Finding
+that the river here bore considerably to the south, and fearful of
+passing the falls before reaching the Rocky mountains, they now changed
+their course to the south, and leaving those insulated hills to the
+right proceeded across the plain. In this direction captain Lewis had
+gone about two miles when his ears were saluted with the agreeable sound
+of a fall of water, and as he advanced a spray which seemed driven by
+the high southwest wind arose above the plain like a column of smoke and
+vanished in an instant. Towards this point he directed his steps, and
+the noise increasing as he approached soon became too tremendous to be
+mistaken for any thing but the great falls of the Missouri. Having
+travelled seven miles after first hearing the sound he reached the falls
+about twelve o'clock, the hills as he approached were difficult of
+access and two hundred feet high: down these he hurried with impatience
+and seating himself on some rocks under the centre of the falls, enjoyed
+the sublime spectacle of this stupendous object which has since the
+creation had been lavishing its magnificence upon the desert, unknown to
+civilization.
+
+                 [Illustration: The Falls and Portage]
+
+The river immediately at its cascade is three hundred yards wide, and is
+pressed in by a perpendicular cliff on the left, which rises to about
+one hundred feet and extends up the stream for a mile; on the right the
+bluff is also perpendicular for three hundred yards above the falls.
+For ninety or a hundred yards from the left cliff, the water falls in
+one smooth even sheet, over a precipice of at least eighty feet. The
+remaining part of the river precipitates itself with a more rapid
+current, but being received as it falls by the irregular and somewhat
+projecting rocks below, forms a splendid prospect of perfectly white
+foam two hundred yards in length, and eighty in perpendicular elevation.
+This spray is dissipated into a thousand shapes, sometimes flying up in
+columns of fifteen or twenty feet, which are then oppressed by larger
+masses of the white foam, on all which the sun impresses the brightest
+colours of the rainbow. As it rises from the fall it beats with fury
+against a ledge of rocks which extend across the river at one hundred
+and fifty yards from the precipice. From the perpendicular cliff on the
+north, to the distance of one hundred and twenty yards, the rocks rise
+only a few feet above the water, and when the river is high the stream
+finds a channel across them forty yards wide, and near the higher parts
+of the ledge which then rise about twenty feet, and terminate abruptly
+within eighty or ninety yards of the southern side. Between them and the
+perpendicular cliff on the south, the whole body of water runs with
+great swiftness. A few small cedars grow near this ridge of rocks which
+serves as a barrier to defend a small plain of about three acres shaded
+with cottonwood, at the lower extremity of which is a grove of the same
+tree, where are several Indian cabins of sticks; below the point of them
+the river is divided by a large rock, several feet above the surface of
+the water, and extending down the stream for twenty yards. At the
+distance of three hundred yards from the same ridge is a second abutment
+of solid perpendicular rock about sixty feet high, projecting at right
+angles from the small plain on the north for one hundred and thirty-four
+yards into the river. After leaving this, the Missouri again spreads
+itself to its usual distance of three hundred yards, though with more
+than its ordinary rapidity.
+
+The hunters who had been sent out now returned loaded with buffaloe
+meat, and captain Lewis encamped for the night under a tree near the
+falls. The men were again despatched to hunt for food against the
+arrival of the party, and captain Lewis walked down the river to
+discover if possible some place where the canoes might be safely drawn
+on shore, in order to be transported beyond the falls. He returned
+however without discovering any such spot, the river for three miles
+below being one continued succession of rapids and cascades, overhung
+with perpendicular bluffs from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet
+high; in short, it seems to have worn itself a channel through the solid
+rock. In the afternoon they caught in the falls some of both kinds of
+the white fish, and half a dozen trout from sixteen to twenty-three
+inches long, precisely resembling in form and the position of its fins
+the mountain or speckled trout of the United States, except that the
+specks of the former are of a deep black, while those of the latter are
+of a red or gold colour: they have long sharp teeth on the palate and
+tongue, and generally a small speck of red on each side behind the front
+ventral fins; the flesh is of a pale yellowish red, or when in good
+order of a rose-coloured red.
+
+Friday 14. This morning one of the men was sent to captain Clarke with
+an account of the discovery of the falls, and after employing the rest
+in preserving the meat which had been killed yesterday, captain Lewis
+proceeded to examine the rapids above. From the falls he directed his
+course southwest up the river: after passing one continued rapid, and
+three small cascades, each three or four feet high, he reached at the
+distance of five miles a second fall. The river is about four hundred
+yards wide, and for the distance of three hundred throws itself over to
+the depth of nineteen feet, and so irregularly that he gave it the name
+of the Crooked falls. From the southern shore it extends obliquely
+upwards about one hundred and fifty yards, and then forms an acute angle
+downwards nearly to the commencement of four small islands close to the
+northern side. From the perpendicular pitch to these islands, a distance
+of more than one hundred yards, the water glides down a sloping rock
+with a velocity almost equal to that of its fall. Above this fall the
+river bends suddenly to the northward: while viewing this place captain
+Lewis heard a loud roar above him, and crossing the point of a hill for
+a few hundred yards, he saw one of the most beautiful objects in nature:
+the whole Missouri is suddenly stopped by one shelving rock, which
+without a single niche and with an edge as straight and regular as if
+formed by art, stretches itself from one side of the river to the other
+for at least a quarter of a mile. Over this it precipitates itself in an
+even uninterrupted sheet to the perpendicular depth of fifty feet,
+whence dashing against the rocky bottom it rushes rapidly down, leaving
+behind it a spray of the purest foam across the river. The scene which
+it presented was indeed singularly beautiful, since without any of the
+wild irregular sublimity of the lower falls, it combined all the regular
+elegances which the fancy of a painter would select to form a beautiful
+waterfall. The eye had scarcely been regaled with this charming
+prospect, when at the distance of half a mile captain Lewis observed
+another of a similar kind: to this he immediately hastened, and found a
+cascade stretching across the whole river for a quarter of a mile with a
+descent of fourteen feet, though the perpendicular pitch was only six
+feet. This too in any other neighborhood would have been an object of
+great magnificence, but after what he had just seen it became of
+secondary interest; his curiosity being however awakened, he determined
+to go on even should night overtake him to the head of the falls. He
+therefore pursued the southwest course of the river, which was one
+constant succession of rapids and small cascades, at every one of which
+the bluffs grew lower, or the bed of the river became more on a level
+with the plains. At the distance of two and a half miles he arrived at
+another cataract of twenty-six feet. The river is here six hundred
+yards wide, but the descent is not immediately perpendicular, though the
+river falls generally with a regular and smooth sheet; for about one
+third of the descent a rock protrudes to a small distance, receives the
+water in its passage and gives it a curve. On the south side is a
+beautiful plain a few feet above the level of the falls; on the north
+the country is more broken, and there is a hill not far from the river.
+Just below the falls is a little island in the middle of the river well
+covered with timber. Here on a cottonwood tree an eagle had fixed its
+nest, and seemed the undisputed mistress of a spot, to contest whose
+dominion neither man nor beast would venture across the gulfs that
+surround it, and which is further secured by the mist rising from the
+falls. This solitary bird could not escape the observation of the
+Indians who made the eagle's nest a part of their description of the
+falls, which now proves to be correct in almost every particular, except
+that they did not do justice to their height. Just above this is a
+cascade of about five feet, beyond which, as far as could be discerned,
+the velocity of the water seemed to abate. Captain Lewis now ascended
+the hill which was behind him, and saw from its top a delightful plain
+extending from the river to the base of the Snow mountains to the south
+and southwest. Along this wide level country the Missouri pursued its
+winding course, filled with water to its even and grassy banks, while
+about four miles above it was joined by a large river flowing from the
+northwest through a valley three miles in width, and distinguished by
+the timber which adorned its shores; the Missouri itself stretches to
+the south in one unruffled stream of water as if unconscious of the
+roughness it must soon encounter, and bearing on its bosom vast flocks
+of geese, while numerous herds of buffaloe are feeding on the plains
+which surround it.
+
+Captain Lewis then descended the hill, and directed his course towards
+the river falling in from the west. He soon met a herd of at least a
+thousand buffaloe, and being desirous of providing for supper shot one
+of them; the animal began to bleed, and captain Lewis who had forgotten
+to reload his rifle, was intently watching to see him fall, when he
+beheld a large brown bear who was stealing on him unperceived, and was
+already within twenty steps. In the first moment of surprise he lifted
+his rifle, but remembering instantly that it was not charged, and that
+he had not time to reload, he felt that there was no safety but in
+flight. It was in the open level plain, not a bush nor a tree within
+three hundred yards, the bank of the river sloping and not more than
+three feet high, so that there was no possible mode of concealment:
+captain Lewis therefore thought of retreating in a quick walk as fast as
+the bear advanced towards the nearest tree; but as soon as he turned the
+bear ran open mouth and at full speed upon him. Captain Lewis ran about
+eighty yards, but finding that the animal gained on him fast, it flashed
+on his mind that by getting into the water to such a depth that the bear
+would be obliged to attack him swimming, there was still some chance of
+his life, he therefore turned short, plunged into the river about waist
+deep, and facing about presented the point of his espontoon. The bear
+arrived at the water's edge within twenty feet of him, but as soon as he
+put himself in this position of defence, he seemed frightened, and
+wheeling about, retreated with as much precipitation as he had pursued.
+Very glad to be released from this danger, captain Lewis returned to the
+shore, and observed him run with great speed, sometimes looking back as
+if he expected to be pursued, till he reached the woods. He could not
+conceive the cause of the sudden alarm of the bear, but congratulated
+himself on his escape when he saw his own track torn to pieces by the
+furious animal, and learnt from the whole adventure never to suffer his
+rifle to be a moment unloaded. He now resumed his progress in the
+direction which the bear had taken towards the western river, and found
+it a handsome stream about two hundred yards wide, apparently deep,
+with a gentle current; its waters clear, and its banks, which were
+formed principally of dark brown and blue clay, are about the same
+height as those of the Missouri, that is from three to five feet. What
+was singular was that the river does not seem to overflow its banks at
+any season, while it might be presumed from its vicinity to the
+mountains, that the torrents arising from the melting of the snows,
+would sometimes cause it to swell beyond its limits. The contrary fact
+would induce a belief that the Rocky mountains yield their snows very
+reluctantly and equably to the sun, and are not often drenched by very
+heavy rains. This river is no doubt that which the Indians call Medicine
+river, which they mentioned as emptying into the Missouri, just above
+the falls. After examining Medicine river, captain Lewis set out at half
+after six o'clock in the evening on his return towards the camp, which
+he estimated at the distance of twelve miles. In going through the low
+grounds on Medicine river he met an animal which at a distance he
+thought was a wolf, but on coming within sixty paces, it proved to be
+some brownish yellow animal standing near its burrow, which, when he
+came nigh, crouched and seemed as if about to spring on him. Captain
+Lewis fired and the beast disappeared in its burrow. From the track and
+the general appearance of the animal he supposed it to be of the tiger
+kind. He then went on, but as if the beasts of the forests had conspired
+against him, three buffaloe bulls which were feeding with a large herd
+at the distance of half a mile, left their companions and ran at full
+speed towards him. He turned round, and unwilling to give up the field
+advanced towards them: when they came within a hundred yards, they
+stopped, looked at him for some time, and then retreated as they came.
+He now pursued his route in the dark, reflecting on the strange
+adventures and sights of the day which crowded on his mind so rapidly
+that he should have been inclined to believe it all enchantment if the
+thorns of the prickly pear piercing his feet did not dispel at every
+moment the illusion. He at last reached the party, who had been very
+anxious for his safety, and who had already decided on the route which
+each should take in the morning to look for him. Being much fatigued he
+supped and slept well during the night.
+
+Saturday, 15. The men were again sent out to bring in the game killed
+yesterday and to procure more: they also obtained a number of fine trout
+and several small catfish weighing about four pounds, and differing from
+the white catfish lower down the Missouri. On awaking this morning
+captain Lewis found a large rattlesnake coiled on the trunk of a tree
+under which he had been sleeping. He killed it, and found it like those
+we had seen before, differing from those of the Atlantic states, not in
+its colours but in the form and arrangement of them; it had one hundred
+and seventy-six scuta on the abdomen, and seventeen half-formed scuta on
+the tail. There is a heavy dew on the grass about the camp every
+morning, which no doubt proceeds from the mist of the falls, as it takes
+place no where in the plains nor on the river except here. The messenger
+sent to captain Clarke returned with information of his having arrived
+five miles below at a rapid, which he did not think it prudent to ascend
+and would wait till captain Lewis and his party rejoined him.
+
+On Tuesday 11th, the day when captain Lewis left us, we remained at the
+entrance of Maria's river and completed the deposits of all the articles
+with which we could dispense. The morning had been fair with a high wind
+from the southwest, which shifted in the evening to northwest, when the
+weather became cold and the wind high. The next morning,
+
+Wednesday, 12, we left our encampment with a fair day and a southwest
+wind. The river was now so crowded with islands that within the distance
+of ten miles and a half we passed eleven of different dimensions before
+reaching a high black bluff in a bend on the left, where we saw a great
+number of swallows. Within one mile and a half farther we passed four
+small islands, two on each side, and at fifteen miles from our
+encampment reached a spring which the men called Grog spring: it is on
+the northern shore, and at the point where Tansy river approaches within
+one hundred yards of the Missouri. From this place we proceeded three
+miles to a low bluff on the north opposite to an island, and spent the
+night in an old Indian encampment. The bluffs under which we passed were
+composed of a blackish clay and coal for about eighty feet, above which
+for thirty or forty feet is a brownish yellow earth. The river is very
+rapid and obstructed by bars of gravel and stone of different shapes and
+sizes, so that three of our canoes were in great danger in the course of
+the day. We had a few drops of rain about two o'clock in the afternoon.
+The only animals we killed were elk and deer; but we saw great numbers
+of rattlesnakes.
+
+Thursday, 13. The morning was fair and there was some dew on the ground.
+After passing two islands we reached at the distance of a mile and a
+half a small rapid stream fifty yards wide, emptying itself on the
+south, rising in a mountain to the southeast about twelve or fifteen
+miles distant, and at this time covered with snow. As it is the channel
+for the melted snow of that mountain we called it Snow river: opposite
+to its entrance is another island: at one mile and three quarters is
+a black bluff of slate on the south; nine miles beyond which, after
+passing ten islands, we came to on the southern shore near an old Indian
+fortified camp, opposite the lower point of an island, having made
+thirteen miles. The number of islands and shoals, the rapidity of the
+river, and the quantity of large stones, rendered the navigation very
+disagreeable: along the banks we distinguished several low bluffs or
+cliffs of slate. There were great numbers of geese and goslings; the
+geese not being able to fly at this season. Gooseberries are ripe and in
+great abundance; the yellow currant is also common, but not yet ripe.
+Our game consisted of buffaloe and goats.
+
+Friday, 14. Again the day is fine. We made two miles to a small island
+in the southern bend, after passing several bad rapids. The current
+becomes indeed swifter as we ascend and the canoes frequently receive
+water as we drag them with difficulty along. At the distance of six
+miles we reached captain Clarke's camp on the fourth, which is on the
+north side and opposite to a large gravelly bar. Here the man sent by
+captain Lewis joined us with the pleasing intelligence that he had
+discovered the falls, and was convinced that the course we were pursuing
+was that of the true Missouri. At a mile and a half we reached the upper
+point of an island, three quarters of a mile beyond which we encamped on
+the south, after making only ten and a quarter miles. Along the river
+was but little timber, but much hard slate in the bluffs.
+
+Saturday, 15. The morning being warm and fair we set out at the usual
+hour, but proceeded with great difficulty in consequence of the
+increased rapidity of the current. The channel is constantly obstructed
+by rocks and dangerous rapids. During the whole progress the men are
+in the water hauling the canoes, and walking on sharp rocks and round
+stones which cut their feet or cause them to fall. The rattlesnakes too
+are so numerous that the men are constantly on their guard against being
+bitten by them; yet they bear the fatigues with the most undiminished
+cheerfulness. We hear the roar of the falls very distinctly this
+morning. At three and three quarter miles we came to a rock in a bend
+to the south, resembling a tower. At six and three quarter miles we
+reached a large creek on the south, which after one of our men we called
+Shield's creek. It is rapid in its course, about thirty yards wide, and
+on sending a person five miles up it proved to have a fall of fifteen
+feet, and some timber on its low ground. Above this river the bluffs of
+the Missouri are of red earth mixed with stratas of black stone; below
+it we passed some white clay in the banks which mixes with water in
+every respect like flour. At three and three quarter miles we reached
+a point on the north opposite an island and a bluff; and one mile and
+a quarter further, after passing some red bluffs, came to on the north
+side, having made twelve miles. Here we found a rapid so difficult
+that we did not think proper to attempt the passage this evening, and
+therefore sent to captain Lewis to apprise him of our arrival. We saw
+a number of geese, ducks, crows, and blackbirds to-day, the two former
+with their young. The river rose a little this evening, but the timber
+is still so scarce that we could not procure enough for our use during
+the night.
+
+Sunday, June 16. Some rain fell last night, and this morning the weather
+was cloudy and the wind high from the southwest. We passed the rapid by
+doubly manning the periogue and canoes, and halted at the distance of a
+mile and a quarter to examine the rapids above, which we found to be a
+continued succession of cascades as far as the view extended, which was
+about two miles. About a mile above where we halted was a large creek
+falling in on the south, opposite to which is a large sulphur spring
+falling over the rocks on the north: captain Lewis arrived at two from
+the falls about five miles above us, and after consulting upon the
+subject of the portage, we crossed the river and formed a camp on
+the north, having come three quarters of a mile to-day. From our own
+observation we had deemed the south side to be the most favourable for a
+portage, but two men sent out for the purpose of examining it, reported
+that the creek and the ravines intersected the plain so deeply that it
+was impossible to cross it. Captain Clarke therefore resolved to examine
+more minutely what was the best route: the four canoes were unloaded at
+the camp and then sent across the river, where by means of strong cords
+they were hauled over the first rapid, whence they may be easily drawn
+into the creek. Finding too, that the portage would be at all events
+too long to enable us to carry the boats on our shoulders, six men
+were set to work to make wheels for carriages to transport them. Since
+leaving Maria's river the wife of Chaboneau, our interpreter, has been
+dangerously ill, but she now found great relief from the mineral water
+of the sulphur spring. It is situated about two hundred yards from
+the Missouri, into which it empties over a precipice of rock about
+twenty-five feet high. The water is perfectly transparent, strongly
+impregnated with sulphur, and we suspect iron also, as the colour of the
+hills and bluffs in the neighbourhood indicates the presence of that
+metal. In short the water to all appearance is precisely similar to that
+of Bowyer's sulphur spring in Virginia.
+
+Monday 17. Captain Clarke set out with five men to explore the country;
+the rest were employed in hunting, making wheels and in drawing the five
+canoes and all the baggage up the creek, which we now called Portage
+creek: from this creek there is a gradual ascent to the top of the high
+plain, while the bluffs of the creek lower down and of the Missouri,
+both above and below its entrance, were so steep as to have rendered it
+almost impracticable to drag them up from the Missouri. We found great
+difficulty and some danger in even ascending the creek thus far, in
+consequence of the rapids and rocks of the channel of the creek, which
+just above where we brought the canoes has a fall of five feet, and high
+and sleep bluffs beyond it: we were very fortunate in finding just below
+Portage creek a cottonwood tree about twenty-two inches in diameter, and
+large enough to make the carriage wheels; it was perhaps the only one
+of the same size within twenty miles; and the cottonwood, which we are
+obliged to employ in the other parts of the work, is extremely soft and
+brittle. The mast of the white periogue which we mean to leave behind,
+supplied us with two axletrees. There are vast quantities of buffaloe
+feeding in the plains or watering in the river, which is also strewed
+with the floating carcases and limbs of these animals. They go in large
+herds to water about the falls, and as all the passages to the river
+near that place are narrow and steep, the foremost are pressed into the
+river by the impatience of those behind. In this way we have seen ten or
+a dozen disappear over the falls in a few minutes. They afford excellent
+food for the wolves, bears, and birds of prey; and this circumstance may
+account for the reluctance of the bears to yield their dominion over the
+neighbourhood.
+
+Tuesday 18. The periogue was drawn up a little below our camp and
+secured in a thick copse of willow bushes. We now began to form a cache
+or place of deposit and to dry our goods and other articles which
+required inspection. The wagons too are completed. Our hunters brought
+us ten deer, and we shot two out of a herd of buffaloe that came to
+water at the sulphur spring. There is a species of gooseberry growing
+abundantly among the rocks on the sides of the cliffs: it is now ripe,
+of a pale red colour, about the size of the common gooseberry, and like
+it is an ovate pericarp of soft pulp enveloping a number of small
+whitish coloured seeds, and consisting of a yellowish slimy mucilaginous
+substance, with a sweet taste; the surface of the berry is covered with
+a glutinous adhesive matter, and its fruit though ripe retains its
+withered corolla. The shrub itself seldom rises more than two feet high,
+is much branched, and has no thorns. The leaves resemble those of the
+common gooseberry except in being smaller, and the berry is supported by
+separate peduncles or footstalks half an inch long. There are also
+immense quantities of grasshoppers of a brown colour in the plains, and
+they no doubt contribute to the lowness of the grass, which is not
+generally more than three inches high, though it is soft, narrow-leafed
+and affords a fine pasture for the buffaloe.
+
+Wednesday 19. The wind blew violently to-day, as it did yesterday, and
+as it does frequently in this open country, where there is not a tree
+to break or oppose its force. Some men were sent for the meat killed
+yesterday which fortunately had not been discovered by the wolves.
+Another party went to Medicine river in quest of elk, which we hope
+may be induced to resort there, from there being more wood in that
+neighborhood than on the Missouri. All the rest were occupied in packing
+the baggage and mending their moccasins, in order to prepare for the
+portage. We caught a number of the white fish, but no catfish or
+trout. Our poor Indian woman, who had recovered so far as to walk out,
+imprudently ate a quantity of the white apple, which with some dried
+fish occasioned a return of her fever.
+
+The meridian altitude of the sun's lower limb, as observed with octant
+by back observation, was 53° 15', giving as the latitude of our camp,
+47° 8' 59" 5"'.
+
+Thursday 20. As we were desirous of getting meat enough to last us
+during the portage, so that the men might not be diverted from their
+labour to look for food, we sent out four hunters to-day: they killed
+eleven buffaloe. This was indeed an easy labour, for there are vast
+herds coming constantly to the opposite bank of the river to water; they
+seem also to make much use of the mineral water of the sulphur spring,
+but whether from choice, or because it is more convenient than the
+river, we cannot determine, as they sometimes pass near the spring and
+go on to the river. Besides this spring, brackish water or that of a
+dark colour impregnated with mineral salts, such as we have frequently
+met on the Missouri, may be found in small quantities in some of the
+steep ravines on the north side of the river opposite to us and at the
+falls.
+
+Captain Clarke returned this evening, having examined the whole course
+of the river and fixed the route most practicable for the portage. The
+first day, 17th, he was occupied in measuring the heights and distances
+along the banks of the river, and slept near a ravine at the foot of the
+crooked falls, having very narrowly escaped falling into the river,
+where he would have perished inevitably, in descending the cliffs near
+the grand cataract. The next day, 18th, he continued the same occupation
+and arrived in the afternoon at the junction of Medicine and Missouri
+rivers: up the latter he ascended, and passed at the distance of a mile
+an island and a little timber in an eastwardly bend of the river. One
+mile beyond this he came to the lower point of a large island; another
+small island in the middle of the river, and one near the left shore at
+the distance of three miles, opposite to the head of which he encamped
+near the mouth of a creek which appeared to rise in the South mountain.
+These three islands are opposite to each other, and we gave them the
+name of the Whitebear islands from observing some of those animals on
+them. He killed a beaver, an elk and eight buffaloe. One of the men who
+was sent a short distance from the camp to bring home some meat, was
+attacked by a white bear, and closely pursued within forty paces of the
+camp, and narrowly escaped being caught. Captain Clarke immediately went
+with three men in quest of the bear, which he was afraid might surprise
+another of the hunters who was out collecting the game. The bear was
+however too quick, for before captain Clarke could reach the man, the
+bear had attacked him and compelled him to take refuge in the water. He
+now ran off as they approached, and it being late they deferred pursuing
+him till the next morning.
+
+
+
+
+                                CHAPTER XI.
+
+     Description and romantic appearance of the Missouri at the junction
+     of the Medicine river--the difficulty of transporting the baggage
+     at the falls--the party employed in the construction of a boat of
+     skins--the embarrassments they had to encounter for want of proper
+     materials--during the work the party much troubled by white
+     bears--violent hail-storm, and providential escape of captain
+     Clarke and his party--description of a remarkable
+     fountain--singular explosion heard from the Black mountains--the
+     boat found to be insufficient, and the serious disappointment of
+     the party--captain Clarke undertakes to repair the damage by
+     building canoes, and accomplishes the task.
+
+
+On the 19th, captain Clarke not being able to find the bear mentioned in
+the last chapter, spent the day in examining the country both above and
+below the Whitebear islands, and concluded that the place of his
+encampment would be the best point for the extremity of the portage. The
+men were therefore occupied in drying the meat to be left here. Immense
+numbers of buffaloe are every where round, and they saw a summer duck
+which is now sitting. The next morning, 20th, he crossed the level
+plain, fixed stakes to mark the route of the portage, till he passed a
+large ravine which would oblige us to make the portage farther from the
+river: after this there being no other obstacle he went to the river
+where he had first struck it, and took its courses and distances down to
+the camp. From the draught and survey of captain Clarke, we had now a
+clear and connected view of the falls, cascades, and rapids of the
+Missouri.
+
+This river is three hundred yards wide at the point where it receives
+the waters of Medicine river, which is one hundred and thirty-seven
+yards in width. The united current continues three hundred and
+twenty-eight poles to a small rapid on the north side, from which it
+gradually widens to one thousand four hundred yards, and at the distance
+of five hundred and forty-eight poles reaches the head of the rapids,
+narrowing as it approaches them. Here the hills on the north which had
+withdrawn from the bank closely border the river, which, for the space
+of three hundred and twenty poles, makes its way over the rocks with a
+descent of thirty feet: in this course the current is contracted to five
+hundred and eighty yards, and after throwing itself over a small pitch
+of five feet, forms a beautiful cascade of twenty-six feet five inches;
+this does not however fall immediately perpendicular, being stopped by a
+part of the rock which projects at about one third of the distance.
+After descending this fall, and passing the cottonwood island on which
+the eagle has fixed its nest, the river goes on for five hundred and
+thirty-two poles over rapids and little falls, the estimated descent of
+which is thirteen feet six inches till it is joined by a large fountain
+boiling up underneath the rocks near the edge of the river, into which
+it falls with a cascade of eight feet. It is of the most perfect
+clearness and rather of a bluish cast; and even after falling into the
+Missouri it preserves its colour for half a mile. From this fountain the
+river descends with increased rapidity for the distance of two hundred
+and fourteen poles, during which the estimated descent is five feet from
+this for a distance of one hundred and thirty-five poles, the river
+descends fourteen feet seven inches including a perpendicular fall of
+six feet seven inches. The river has now become pressed into a space of
+four hundred and seventy-three yards, and here forms a grand cataract by
+falling over a plain rock the whole distance across the river to the
+depth of forty-seven feet eight inches: after recovering itself the
+Missouri then proceeds with an estimated descent of three feet, till at
+the distance of one hundred and two poles it again is precipitated down
+the Crooked falls of nineteen feet perpendicular; below this at the
+mouth of a deep ravine is a fall of five feet, after which for the
+distance of nine hundred and seventy poles the descent is much more
+gradual, not being more than ten feet, and then succeeds a handsome
+level plain for the space of one hundred and seventy-eight poles with a
+computed descent of three feet, making a bend towards the north. Thence
+it descends during four hundred and eight poles, about eighteen feet and
+a half, when it makes a perpendicular fall of two feet, which is ninety
+poles beyond the great cataract, in approaching which it descends
+thirteen feet within two hundred yards, and gathering strength from its
+confined channel, which is only two hundred and eighty yards wide,
+rushes over the fall to the depth of eighty-seven feet and three
+quarters of an inch. After raging among the rocks and losing itself in
+foam, it is compressed immediately into a bed of ninety-three yards in
+width: it continues for three hundred and forty poles to the entrance of
+a run or deep ravine where there is a fall of three feet, which, joined
+to the decline of the river during that course, makes the descent six
+feet. As it goes on the descent within the next two hundred and forty
+poles is only four feet: from this passing a run or deep ravine the
+descent for four hundred poles is thirteen feet; within two hundred and
+forty poles a second descent of eighteen feet; thence one hundred and
+sixty poles a descent of six feet; after which to the mouth of Portage
+creek, a distance of two hundred and eighty poles, the descent is ten
+feet. From this survey and estimate it results that the river
+experiences a descent of three hundred and fifty-two feet in the course
+of two and three quarter miles, from the commencement of the rapids to
+the mouth of Portage creek, exclusive of the almost impassable rapids
+which extend for a mile below its entrance.
+
+The latitude of our camp below the entrance of Portage creek, was found
+to be 47° 7' 10" 3, as deduced from a meridian altitude of the sun's
+lower limb taken with octant by back observation giving 53° 10'.
+
+Friday, June 21. Having made the necessary preparations for continuing
+our route, a part of the baggage was carried across the creek into the
+high plain, three miles in advance and placed on one of the carriages
+with truck wheels: the rest of the party was employed in drying meat and
+dressing elk skins. We killed several muledeer and an elk, and observed
+as usual vast quantities of buffaloe who came to drink at the river. For
+the first time on the Missouri we have seen near the falls a species of
+fishing duck, the body of which is brown and white, the wings white, and
+the head and upper part of the neck of a brick red, with a narrow beak,
+which seems to be of the same kind common in the Susquehanna, Potomac
+and James' river. The little wood which this neighbourhood affords
+consists of the broad and narrow-leafed cottonwood, the box alder, the
+narrow and broad-leafed willow, the large or sweet willow, which was not
+common below Maria's river, but which here attains the same size and has
+the same appearance as in the Atlantic states. The undergrowth consists
+of roses, gooseberries, currants, small honeysuckles, and the redwood,
+the inner part of which the _engages_ or watermen are fond of smoking
+when mixed with tobacco.
+
+Saturday, 22. We now set out to pass the portage and halted for dinner
+at eight miles distance near a little stream. The axletrees of our
+carriage, which had been made of an old mast, and the cottonwood tongues
+broke before we came there: but we renewed them with the timber of the
+sweet willow, which lasted till within half a mile of our intended camp,
+when the tongues gave way and we were obliged to take as much baggage as
+we could carry on our backs down to the river, where we formed an
+encampment in a small grove of timber opposite to the Whitebear islands.
+Here the banks on both sides of the river are handsome, level, and
+extensive; that near our camp is not more than two feet above the
+surface of the water. The river is about eight hundred yards wide just
+above these islands, ten feet deep in most places, and with a very
+gentle current. The plains however on this part of the river are not so
+fertile as those from the mouth of the Muscleshell and thence downwards;
+there is much more stone on the sides of the hills and on the broken
+lands than is to be found lower down. We saw in the plains vast
+quantities of buffaloe, a number of small birds, and the large brown
+curlew, which is now sitting, and lays its eggs, which are of a pale
+blue with black-specks, on the ground without any nest. There is also a
+species of lark much resembling the bird called the oldfield lark, with
+a yellow breast and a black spot on the croup; though it differs from
+the latter in having its tail formed of feathers of an unequal length
+and pointed; the beak too is somewhat longer and more curved, and the
+note differs considerably. The prickly pear annoyed us very much to-day
+by sticking through our moccasins. As soon as we had kindled our fires
+we examined the meat which captain Clarke had left here, but found that
+the greater part of it had been taken by the wolves.
+
+Sunday, 23. After we had brought up the canoe and baggage captain Clarke
+went down to the camp at Portage creek, where four of the men had been
+left with the Indian woman. Captain Lewis during the morning prepared
+the camp, and in the afternoon went down in a canoe to Medicine river to
+look after the three men who had been sent thither to hunt on the 19th,
+and from whom nothing had as yet been heard. He went up the river about
+half a mile and then walked along on the right bank, hallooing as he
+went, till at the distance of five miles he found one of them who had
+fixed his camp on the opposite bank, where he had killed seven deer and
+dried about six hundred pounds of buffaloe meat, but had killed no elk,
+the animal chiefly wanted. He knew nothing of his companions except that
+on the day of their departure from camp he had left them at the falls
+and come on to Medicine river, not having seen them since. As it was too
+late to return captain Lewis passed over on a raft which he made for
+the purpose and spent the night at Shannon's camp, and the next morning,
+
+Monday, 24, sent J. Fields up the river with orders to go four miles and
+return, whether he found the two absent hunters or not; then descending
+the southwest side of Medicine river, he crossed the Missouri in the
+canoe, and sent Shannon back to his camp to join Fields and bring the
+meat which they had killed: this they did, and arrived in the evening at
+the camp on Whitebear islands. A part of the men from Portage creek also
+arrived with two canoes and baggage. On going down yesterday captain
+Clarke cut off several angles of the former route so as to shorten the
+Portage considerably, and marked it with stakes: he arrived there in
+time to have two of the canoes carried up in the high plain about a mile
+in advance. Here they all repaired their moccasins, and put on double
+soals to protect them from the prickly pear and from the sharp points of
+earth which have been formed by the trampling of the buffaloe during the
+late rains: this of itself is sufficient to render the portage
+disagreeable to one who had no burden; but as the men are loaded as
+heavily as their strength will permit, the crossing is really painful:
+some are limping with the soreness of their feet, others are scarcely
+able to stand for more than a few minutes from the heat and fatigue:
+they are all obliged to halt and rest frequently, and at almost every
+stopping place they fall and many of them are asleep in an instant; yet
+no one complains and they go on with great cheerfulness. At their camp
+Drewyer and Fields joined them, and while captain Lewis was looking for
+them at Medicine river, they returned to report the absence of Shannon
+about whom they had been very uneasy. They had killed several buffaloe
+at the bend of the Missouri above the falls: and dried about eight
+hundred pounds of meat and got one hundred pounds of tallow: they had
+also killed some deer, but had seen no elk. After getting the party in
+motion with the canoes captain Clarke returned to his camp at Portage
+creek.
+
+We were now occupied in fitting up a boat of skins, the frame of which
+had been prepared for the purpose at Harper's ferry. It was made of
+iron, thirty-six feet long, four feet and a half in the beam, and
+twenty-six inches wide in the bottom. Two men had been sent this morning
+for timber to complete it, but they could find scarcely any even
+tolerably straight sticks four and a half feet long, and as the
+cottonwood is too soft and brittle we were obliged to use the willow and
+box-alder.
+
+Tuesday, 25. The party returned to the lower camp. Two men were sent on
+the large island to look for timber. J. Fields was sent up the Missouri
+to hunt elk; but he returned about noon and informed us that a few miles
+above he saw two white bear near the river, and in attempting to fire at
+them came suddenly on a third, who being only a few steps off
+immediately attacked him; that in running to escape from the monster he
+leaped down a steep bank of the river, where falling on a bar of stone
+he cut his hand and knee and bent his gun; but fortunately for him the
+bank concealed him from his antagonist or he would have been most
+probably lost. The other two returned with a small quantity of bark and
+timber, which was all they could find on the island; but they had killed
+two elk: these were valuable, as we are desirous of procuring the skins
+of that animal in order to cover the boat, as they are more strong and
+durable than those of the buffaloe, and do not shrink so much in drying.
+The party that went to the lower camp had one canoe and the baggage
+carried into the high plain to be ready in the morning, and then all who
+could make use of their feet had a dance on the green to the music of a
+violin. We have been unsuccessful in our attempt to catch fish, nor does
+there seem to be any in this part of the river. We observe a number of
+water terrapins. There are quantities of young blackbirds in these
+islands just beginning to fly. Among the vegetable productions we
+observe a species of wild rye which is now heading: it rises to the
+height of eighteen or twenty inches, the beard remarkably fine and soft;
+the culen is jointed, and in every respect except in height it resembles
+the wild rye. Great quantities of mint too, like the peppermint, are
+found here.
+
+The winds are sometimes violent in these plains. The men inform us that
+as they were bringing one of the canoes along on truck-wheels, they
+hoisted the sail and the wind carried her along for some distance.
+
+Wednesday 26. Two men were sent on the opposite side of the river for
+bark and timber, of which they procured some, but by no means enough for
+our purposes. The bark of the cottonwood is too soft, and our only
+dependence is on the sweet willow, which has a tough strong bark; the
+two hunters killed seven buffaloe. A party arrived from below with two
+canoes and baggage, and the wind being from the southeast, they had made
+considerable progress with the sails. On their arrival one of the men
+who had been considerably heated and fatigued, swallowed a very hearty
+draught of water, and was immediately taken ill; captain Lewis bled him
+with a penknife, having no other instrument at hand, and succeeded in
+restoring him to health the next day. Captain Clarke formed a second
+cache or deposit near the camp, and placed the swivel under the rocks
+near the river. The antelopes are still scattered through the plains;
+the females with their young, which are generally two in number, and the
+males by themselves.
+
+Thursday 27. The party were employed in preparing timber for the boat,
+except two who were sent to hunt. About one in the afternoon a cloud
+arose from the southwest and brought with it violent thunder, lightning,
+and hail: soon after it passed the hunters came in from about four miles
+above us. They had killed nine elk, and three bear. As they were hunting
+on the river they saw a low ground covered with thick brushwood, where
+from the tracks along shore they thought a bear had probably taken
+refuge: they therefore landed, without making a noise, and climbed a
+tree about twenty feet above the ground. Having fixed themselves
+securely, they raised a loud shout, and a bear instantly rushed towards
+them. These animals never climb, and therefore when he came to the tree
+and stopped to look at them, Drewyer shot him in the head; he proved to
+be the largest we have yet seen, his nose appeared to be like that of a
+common ox, his fore feet measured nine inches across, and the hind feet
+were seven inches wide, and eleven and three quarters long, exclusive of
+the talons. One of these animals came within thirty yards of the camp
+last night, and carried off some buffaloe meat which we had placed on a
+pole. In the evening after the storm the water on this side of the river
+became of a deep crimson colour, probably caused by some stream above
+washing down a kind of soft red stone, which we observed in the
+neighbouring bluffs and gullies. At the camp below, the men who left us
+in the morning were busy in preparing their load for to-morrow, which
+were impeded by the rain, hail, and the hard wind from the northwest.
+
+Friday 28. The party all occupied in making the boat; they obtained a
+sufficient quantity of willow bark to line her, and over these were
+placed the elk skins, and when they failed we were obliged to use the
+buffaloe hide. The white bear have now become exceedingly troublesome;
+they constantly infest our camp during the night, and though they have
+not attacked us, as our dog who patroles all night gives us notice of
+their approach, yet we are obliged to sleep with our arms by our sides
+for fear of accident, and we cannot send one man alone to any distance,
+particularly if he has to pass through brushwood. We saw two of them
+to-day on the large island opposite to us, but as we are all so much
+occupied now, we mean to reserve ourselves for some leisure moment, and
+then make a party to drive them from the islands. The river has risen
+nine inches since our arrival here.
+
+At Portage creek captain Clarke completed the cache, in which we
+deposited whatever we could spare from our baggage; some ammunition,
+provisions, books, the specimens of plants and minerals, and a draught
+of the river from its entrance to fort Mandan. After closing it he broke
+up the encampment, and took on all the remaining baggage to the high
+plain, about three miles. Portage creek has risen considerably in
+consequence of the rain, and the water had become of a deep crimson
+colour, and ill tasted; on overtaking the canoe he found that there was
+more baggage than could be carried on the two carriages, and therefore
+left some of the heavy articles which could not be injured, and
+proceeded on to Willowrun where he encamped for the night. Here they
+made a supper on two buffaloe which they killed on the way; but passed
+the night in the rain, with a high wind from the southwest. In the
+morning,
+
+Saturday 29, finding it impossible to reach the end of the portage with
+their present load, in consequence of the state of the road after the
+rain, he sent back nearly all his party to bring on the articles which
+had been left yesterday. Having lost some notes and remarks which he had
+made on first ascending the river, he determined to go up to the
+Whitebear islands along its banks, in order to supply the deficiency. He
+there left one man to guard the baggage, and went on to the falls
+accompanied by his servant York, Chaboneau and his wife with her young
+child. On his arrival there he observed a very dark cloud rising in the
+west which threatened rain, and looked around for some shelter, but
+could find no place where they would be secure from being blown into the
+river if the wind should prove as violent as it sometimes does in the
+plains. At length about a quarter of a mile above the falls he found a
+deep ravine where there were some shelving rocks, under which he took
+refuge. They were on the upper side of the ravine near the river,
+perfectly safe from the rain, and therefore laid down their guns,
+compass, and other articles which they carried with them. The shower
+was at first moderate, it then increased to a heavy rain, the effects of
+which they did not feel: soon after a torrent of rain and hail
+descended; the rain seemed to fall in a solid mass, and instantly
+collecting in the ravine came rolling down in a dreadful current,
+carrying the mud and rocks, and every thing that opposed it. Captain
+Clarke fortunately saw it a moment before it reached them, and springing
+up with his gun and shotpouch in his left hand, with his right clambered
+up the steep bluff, pushing on the Indian woman with her child in her
+arms; her husband too had seized her hand and was pulling her up the
+hill, but he was so terrified at the danger that but for captain Clark,
+himself and his wife and child would have been lost. So instantaneous
+was the rise of the water, that before captain Clark had reached his gun
+and began to ascend the bank, the water was up to his waist, and he
+could scarce get up faster than it rose, till it reached the height of
+fifteen feet with a furious current, which had they waited a moment
+longer would have swept them into the river just above the great falls,
+down which they must inevitable have been precipitated. They reached the
+plain in safety, and found York who had separated from them just before
+the storm to hunt some buffaloe, and was now returning to find his
+master. They had been obliged to escape so rapidly that captain Clarke
+lost his compass and umbrella. Chaboneau left his gun, shotpouch, and
+tomahawk, and the Indian woman had just time to grasp her child, before
+the net in which it lay at her feet was carried down the current. He now
+relinquished his intention of going up the river and returned to the
+camp at Willowrun. Here he found that the party sent this morning for
+the baggage, had all returned to camp in great confusion, leaving their
+loads in the plain. On account of the heat they generally go nearly
+naked, and with no covering on their heads. The hail was so large and
+driven so furiously against them by the high wind, that it knocked
+several of them down: one of them particularly was thrown on the ground
+three times, and most of them bleeding freely and complained of being
+much bruised. Willow run had risen six feet since the rain, and as the
+plains were so wet that they could not proceed, they passed the night at
+their camp.
+
+At the Whitebear camp also, we had not been insensible to the
+hail-storm, though less exposed. In the morning there had been a heavy
+shower of rain, after which it became fair. After assigning to the men
+their respective employments, captain Lewis took one of them and went to
+see the large fountain near the falls. For about six miles he passed
+through a beautiful level plain, and then on reaching the break of the
+river hills, was overtaken by the gust of wind from the southwest
+attended by lightning, thunder, and rain: fearing a renewal of the scene
+on the 27th, they took shelter in a little gully where there were some
+broad stones with which they meant to protect themselves against the
+hail; but fortunately there was not much, and that of a small size; so
+that they felt no inconvenience except that of being exposed without
+shelter for an hour, and being drenched by the rain: after it was over
+they proceeded to the fountain which is perhaps the largest in America.
+It is situated in a pleasant level plain, about twenty-five yards from
+the river, into which it falls over some steep irregular rocks with a
+sudden ascent of about six feet in one part of its course. The water
+boils up from among the rocks and with such force near the centre, that
+the surface seems higher there than the earth on the sides of the
+fountain, which is a handsome turf of fine green grass. The water is
+extremely pure, cold and pleasant to the taste, not being impregnated
+with lime or any foreign substance. It is perfectly transparent and
+continues its bluish cast for half a mile down the Missouri,
+notwithstanding the rapidity of the river. After examining it for some
+time captain Lewis returned to the camp.
+
+Sunday 30. In the morning Captain Clarke sent the men to bring up the
+baggage left in the plains yesterday. On their return the axletrees and
+carriages were repaired, and the baggage, conveyed on the shoulders of
+the party across Willow run which had fallen as low as three feet. The
+carriages being then taken over, a load of baggage was carried to the
+six-mile stake, deposited there, and the carriages brought back. Such is
+the state of the plains that this operation consumed the day. Two men
+were sent to the falls to look for the articles lost yesterday; but they
+found nothing but the compass covered with mud and sand at the mouth of
+the ravine; the place at which captain Clarke had been caught by the
+storm, was filled with large rocks. The men complain much of the bruises
+received yesterday from the hail. A more than usual number of buffaloe
+appeared about the camp to-day, and furnished plenty of meat: captain
+Clarke thought that at one view he must have seen at least ten thousand.
+In the course of the day there was a heavy gust of wind from the
+southwest, after which the evening was fair.
+
+At the Whitebear camp we had a heavy dew this morning, which is quite a
+remarkable occurrence. The party continues to be occupied with the boat,
+the crossbars for which are now finished, and there remain only the
+strips to complete the wood work: the skins necessary to cover it have
+already been prepared and they amount to twenty-eight elk skins and four
+buffaloe skins. Among our game were two beaver, which we have had
+occasion to observe always are found wherever there is timber. We also
+killed a large bat or goatsucker of which there are many in this
+neighbourhood, resembling in every respect those of the same species in
+the United States. We have not seen the leather-winged bat for some
+time, nor are there any of the small goatsucker in this part of the
+Missouri. We have not seen either that species of goatsucker or
+nighthawk called the whippoorwill, which is commonly confounded in the
+United States with the large goatsucker which we observe here; this last
+prepares no nest but lays its eggs in the open plains; they generally
+begin to sit on two eggs, and we believe raise only one brood in a
+season: at the present moment they are just hatching their young.
+
+Monday, July 1. After a severe day's work captain Clarke reached our
+camp in the evening, accompanied by his party and all the baggage except
+that left at the six-mile stake, for which they were too much fatigued
+to return. The route from the lower camp on Portage creek to that near
+Whitebear island, having been now measured and examined by captain
+Clarke was as follows:
+
+From our camp opposite the last considerable rapid to the entrance of
+Portage creek south 9° east for three quarters of a mile: thence on a
+course south 10° east for two miles, though for the canoes the best
+route is to the left of this course, and strikes Portage one mile and
+three quarters from its entrance, avoiding in this way a very steep hill
+which lies above Portage creek; from this south 18° west for four miles,
+passing the head of a drain or ravine which falls into the Missouri
+below the great falls, and to the Willow run which has always a
+plentiful supply of good water and some timber: here the course turns to
+south 45° west for four miles further; then south 66° west three miles,
+crossing at the beginning of the course the head of a drain which falls
+into the Missouri at the Crooked Falls, and reaching an elevated point
+of the plain from which south 42° west. On approaching the river on this
+course there is a long and gentle descent from the high plain, after
+which the road turns a little to the right of the course up the river to
+our camp. The whole portage is seventeen and three quarter miles.
+
+At the Whitebear camp we were occupied with the boat and digging a pit
+for the purpose of making some tar. The day has been warm, and the
+mosquitoes troublesome. We were fortunate enough to observe equal
+altitudes of the sun with sextant, which since our arrival here we have
+been prevented from doing, by flying clouds and storms in the evening.
+
+Tuesday, July 2d. A shower of rain fell very early this morning. We then
+despatched some men for the baggage left behind yesterday, and the rest
+were engaged in putting the boat together. This was accomplished in
+about three hours, and then we began to sew on the leather over the
+crossbars or iron on the inner side of the boat which form the ends of
+the sections. By two o'clock the last of the baggage arrived, to the
+great delight of the party who were anxious to proceed. The mosquitoes
+we find very troublesome.
+
+Having completed our celestial observations we went over to the large
+island to make an attack upon its inhabitants the bears, who have
+annoyed us very much of late, and who were prowling about our camp all
+last night. We found that the part of the island frequented by the bear
+forms an almost impenetrable thicket of the broad-leafed willow: into
+this we forced our way in parties of three; but could see only one bear,
+who instantly attacked Drewyer. Fortunately as he was rushing on the
+hunter shot him through the heart within twenty paces and he fell, which
+enabled Drewyer to get out of his way: we then followed him one hundred
+yards and found that the wound had been mortal. Not being able to
+discover any more of these animals we returned to camp: here in turning
+over some of the baggage we caught a rat somewhat larger than the common
+European rat, and of a lighter colour: the body and outer parts of the
+legs and head of a light lead colour; the inner side of the legs as well
+as the belly, feet and ears are white; the ears are not covered with
+hair, and are much larger than those of the common rat; the toes also
+are longer, the eyes black and prominent, the whiskers very long and
+full; the tail rather longer than the body, and covered with fine fur
+and hair of the same size with that on the back, which is very close,
+short, and silky in its texture. This was the first we had met, although
+its nests are very frequent among the cliffs of rocks and hollow trees,
+where we also found large quantities of the shells and seed of the
+prickly pear, on which we conclude they chiefly subsist. The musquitoes
+are uncommonly troublesome. The wind was again high from the southwest:
+these winds are in fact always the coldest and most violent which we
+experience, and the hypothesis which we have formed on that subject is,
+that the air coming in contact with the Snowy mountains immediately
+becomes chilled and condensed, and being thus rendered heavier than the
+air below it descends into the rarified air below or into the vacuum
+formed by the constant action of the sun on the open unsheltered plains.
+The clouds rise suddenly near these mountains and distribute their
+contents partially over the neighbouring plains. The same cloud will
+discharge hail alone in one part, hail and rain in another, and rain
+only in a third, and all within the space of a few miles; while at the
+same time there is snow falling on the mountains to the southeast of us.
+There is at present no snow on those mountains; that which covered them
+on our arrival as well as that which has since fallen having
+disappeared. The mountains to the north and northwest of us are still
+entirely covered with snow, and indeed there has been no perceptible
+diminution of it since we first saw them, which induces a belief either
+that the clouds prevailing at this season do not reach their summits or
+that they deposit their snow only. They glisten with great beauty when
+the sun shines on them in a particular direction, and most probably from
+this glittering appearance have derived the name of the Shining
+mountains.
+
+Wednesday, 3. Nearly the whole party were employed in different labours
+connected with the boat, which is now almost completed: but we have not
+as yet been able to obtain tar from our kiln, a circumstance that will
+occasion us not a little embarrassment. Having been told by the Indians
+that on leaving the falls we should soon pass the buffaloe country, we
+have before us the prospect of fasting occasionally; but in order to
+provide a supply we sent out the hunters who killed only a buffaloe and
+two antelopes, which added to six beaver and two otter have been all our
+game for two or three days. At ten in the morning we had a light shower
+which scarcely wet the grass.
+
+Thursday, July 4th. The boat was now completed except what is in fact
+the most difficult part, the making her seams secure. We had intended to
+despatch a canoe with part of our men to the United States early this
+spring; but not having yet seen the Snake Indians, or knowing whether to
+calculate on their friendship or enmity, we have decided not to weaken
+our party which is already scarcely sufficient to repel any hostility.
+We were afraid too that such a measure might dishearten those who
+remain; and as we have never suggested it to them, they are all
+perfectly and enthusiastically attached to the enterprise, and willing
+to encounter any danger to ensure its success. We had a heavy dew this
+morning.
+
+Since our arrival at the falls we have repeatedly heard a strange noise
+coming from the mountains in a direction a little to the north of west.
+It is heard at different periods of the day and night, sometimes when
+the air is perfectly still and without a cloud, and consists of one
+stroke only, or of five or six discharges in quick succession. It is
+loud and resembles precisely the sound of a six pound piece of ordnance
+at the distance of three miles. The Minnetarees frequently mentioned
+this noise like thunder, which they said the mountains made; but we had
+paid no attention to it, believing it to have been some superstition or
+perhaps a falsehood. The watermen also of the party say that the Pawnees
+and Ricaras give the same account of a noise heard in the Black
+mountains to the westward of them. The solution of the mystery given by
+the philosophy of the watermen is, that it is occasioned by the
+bursting of the rich mines of silver confined within the bosom of the
+mountain. An elk and a beaver are all that were killed to-day: the
+buffaloe seemed to have withdrawn from our neighbourhood, though several
+of the men who went to-day to visit the falls for the first time,
+mention that they are still abundant at that place. We contrived however
+to spread not a very sumptuous but a comfortable table in honour of the
+day, and in the evening gave the men a drink of spirits, which was the
+last of our stock. Some of them appeared sensible to the effects of even
+so small a quantity, and as is usual among them on all festivals, the
+fiddle was produced and a dance begun, which lasted till nine o'clock,
+when it was interrupted by a heavy shower of rain. They continued
+however their merriment till a late hour.
+
+Friday 5. The boat was brought up into a high situation and fires
+kindled under her in order to dry her more expeditiously. Despairing now
+of procuring any tar, we formed a composition of pounded charcoal with
+beeswax and buffaloe tallow to supply its place; should this resource
+fail us it will be very unfortunate, as in every other respect the boat
+answers our purposes completely. Although not quite dry she can be
+carried with ease by five men; her form is as complete as could be
+wished; very strong, and will carry at least eight thousand pounds with
+her complement of hands. Besides our want of tar, we have been unlucky
+in sewing the skins with a needle which had sharp edges instead of a
+point merely, although a large thong was used in order to fill the hole,
+yet it shrinks in drying and leaves the hole open, so that we fear the
+boat will leak.
+
+A large herd of buffaloe came near us and we procured three of them:
+besides which were killed two wolves and three antelopes. In the course
+of the day other herds of buffaloe came near our camp on their way down
+the river: these herds move with great method and regularity. Although
+ten or twelve herds are seen scattered from each other over a space of
+many miles, yet if they are undisturbed by pursuit they will be
+uniformly travelling in the same direction.
+
+Saturday 6. Last night there were several showers of rain and hail,
+attended with thunder and lightning: and about day break a heavy storm
+came on from the southwest with one continued roar of thunder, and rain
+and hail. The hail which was as large as musket balls, covered the
+ground completely; and on collecting some of it, it lasted during the
+day and served to cool the water. The red and yellow currant is abundant
+and now ripe, although still a little acid. We have seen in this
+neighbourhood what we have not met before, a remarkably small fox which
+associates in bands and burrows in the prairie, like the small wolf, but
+have not yet been able to obtain any of them, as they are extremely
+vigilant, and betake themselves on the slightest alarm to their burrows
+which are very deep.
+
+Sunday 7. The weather is warm but cloudy, so that the moisture retained
+by the bark after the rain leaves it slowly, though we have small fires
+constantly under the boat. We have no tents, and therefore are obliged
+to use the sails to keep off the bad weather. Our buffaloe skins too,
+are scarcely sufficient to cover our baggage, but the men are now
+dressing others to replace their present leather clothing, which soon
+rots by being so constantly exposed to water. In the evening the hunters
+returned with the skins of only three buffaloe, two antelope, four deer,
+and three wolf skins, and reported that the buffaloe had gone further
+down the river; two other hunters who left us this morning could find
+nothing except one elk: in addition to this we caught a beaver. The
+musquitoes still disturb us very much, and the blowing-flies swarm in
+vast numbers round the boat. At four in the afternoon we had a light
+shower of rain attended with some thunder and lightning.
+
+Monday 8. In order more fully to replace the notes of the river which
+he had lost, and which he was prevented from supplying by the storm of
+the twenty-ninth ult. captain Clarke set out after breakfast, taking
+with him nearly the whole party with a view of shooting buffaloe if
+there should be any near the falls. After getting some distance in the
+plains the men were divided into squads, and he with two others struck
+the Missouri at the entrance of Medicine river, and thence proceeded
+down to the great cataract. He found that the immense herds of buffaloe
+have entirely disappeared, and he thought had gone below the falls.
+Having made the necessary measurements, he returned through the plains
+and reached camp late in the evening; the whole party had killed only
+three buffaloe, three antelopes and a deer; they had also shot a small
+fox, and brought a living ground-squirrel somewhat larger than those of
+the United States.
+
+The day was warm and fair, but a slight rain fell in the afternoon. The
+boat having now become sufficiently dry, we gave it a coat of the
+composition, which after a proper interval was repeated, and the next
+morning,
+
+Tuesday 9, she was launched into the water, and swam perfectly well: the
+seats were then fixed and the oars fitted; but after we had loaded her,
+as well as the canoes, and were on the point of setting out a violent
+wind caused the waves to wet the baggage, so that we were forced to
+unload them. The wind continued high till evening, when to our great
+disappointment we discovered that nearly all the composition had
+separated from the skins, and left the seams perfectly exposed; so that
+the boat now leaked very much. To repair this misfortune without pitch
+is impossible, and as none of that article is to be procured, we
+therefore, however reluctantly, are obliged to abandon her, after having
+had so much labour in the construction. We now saw that the section of
+the boat covered with buffaloe skins on which hair had been left,
+answered better than the elk skins and leaked but little; while that
+part which was covered hair about one eighth of an inch, retained the
+composition perfectly, and remained sound and dry. From this we
+perceived that had we employed buffaloe instead of elk skins, and not
+singed them so closely as we have done, carefully avoiding to cut the
+leather in sewing, the boat would have been sufficient even with the
+present composition, or had we singed instead of shaving the elk skins
+we might have succeeded. But we discovered our error too late: the
+buffaloe had deserted us, the travelling season was so fast advancing
+that we had no time to spare for experiments, and therefore finding that
+she could be no longer useful she was sunk in the water, so as to soften
+the skins and enable us the more easily to take her to pieces. It now
+became necessary to provide other means for transporting the baggage
+which we had intended to stow in her. For this purpose we shall want two
+canoes, but for many miles below the mouth of the Muscleshell river to
+this place, we have not seen a single tree fit to be used in that way.
+The hunters however who had hitherto been sent after timber, mention
+that there is a low ground on the opposite side of the river, about
+eight miles above us by land, and more than twice that distance by
+water, in which we may probably find trees large enough for our
+purposes. Captain Clarke therefore determined to set out by land for
+that place with ten of the best workmen who would be occupied in
+building the canoes till the rest of the party, after taking the boat to
+pieces and making the necessary deposits, should transport the baggage
+and join them with the other six canoes.
+
+Wednesday 10. He accordingly passed over to the opposite side of the
+river with his party, and proceeded on eight miles by land, the distance
+by water being twenty-three and three quarter miles. Here he found two
+cottonwood trees, but on cutting them down, one proved to be hollow,
+split at the top in falling, and both were much damaged at the bottom.
+He searched the neighbourhood but could find none which would suit
+better, and therefore was obliged to make use of those which he had
+felled, shortening them in order to avoid the cracks, and supplying the
+deficiency by making them as wide as possible. They were equally at a
+loss for wood of which they might make handles for their axes, the eyes
+of which not being round they were obliged to split the timber in such a
+manner that thirteen of the handles broke in the course of the day,
+though made of the best wood they could find for the purpose, which was
+the chokecherry.
+
+The rest of the party took the frame of the boat to pieces, deposited it
+in a cache or hole, with a draught of the country from fort Mandan to
+this place, and also some other papers and small articles of less
+importance. After this we amused ourselves with fishing, and although we
+had thought on our arrival that there were none in this part of the
+river, we caught some of a species of white chub below the falls, but
+few in number, and small in size.
+
+Serjeant Ordway with four canoes and eight men had set sail in the
+morning, with part of the baggage to the place where captain Clarke had
+fixed his camp, but the wind was so high that he only reached within
+three miles of that place, and encamped for the night.
+
+Thursday, July 11. In the morning one of the canoes joined captain
+Clarke: the other three having on board more valuable articles, which
+would have been injured by the water, went on more cautiously, and did
+not reach the camp till the evening. Captain Clarke then had the canoes
+unloaded and sent back, but the high wind prevented their floating down
+nearer than about eight miles above us. His party were busily engaged
+with the canoes, and their hunters supplied them with three fat deer and
+a buffaloe, in addition to two deer and an antelope killed yesterday.
+The few men who were with captain Lewis were occupied in hunting, but
+with not much success, having killed only one buffaloe. They heard about
+sunset two discharges of the tremendous mountain artillery: they also
+saw several very large gray eagles, much larger than those of the United
+States, and most probably a distinct species, though the bald eagle of
+this country is not quite so large as that of the United States. The men
+have been much afflicted with painful whitlows, and one of them disabled
+from working by this complaint in his hand.
+
+Friday, 12. In consequence of the wind the canoes did not reach the
+lower camp till late in the afternoon, before which time captain Lewis
+sent all the men he could spare up the river to assist in building the
+boats, and the day was too far advanced to reload and send them up
+before morning. The mosquitoes are very troublesome, and they have a
+companion not less so, a large black gnat which does not sting, but
+attacks the eyes in swarms. The party with captain Clarke are employed
+on the canoes: in the course of the work serjeant Pryor dislocated his
+shoulder yesterday, but it was replaced immediately, and though painful
+does not threaten much injury. The hunters brought in three deer and two
+otter. This last animal has been numerous since the water has become
+sufficiently clear for them to take fish. The blue-crested fisher, or as
+it is sometimes called, the kingfisher, is an inhabitant of this part of
+the river; it is a bird rare on the Missouri: indeed we had not seen
+more than three or four of them from its entrance to Maria's river, and
+even those did not seem to reside on the Missouri but on some of the
+clearer streams which empty into it, as they were seen near the mouths
+of those streams.
+
+Saturday 13. The morning being fair and calm captain Lewis had all the
+remaining baggage embarked on board the six canoes, which sailed with
+two men in each for the upper camp. Then with a sick man and the Indian
+woman, he left the encampment, and crossing over the river went on by
+land to join captain Clarke. From the head of the Whitebear islands he
+proceeded in a southwest direction, at the distance of three miles, till
+he struck the Missouri, which he then followed till he reached the place
+where all the party were occupied in boat-building. On his way he passed
+a very large Indian lodge, which was probably designed as a great
+council-house, but it differs in its construction from all that we have
+seen lower down the Missouri or elsewhere. The form of it was a circle
+two hundred and sixteen feet in circumference at the base, and composed
+of sixteen large cottonwood poles about fifty feet long, and at their
+thicker ends, which touched the ground, about the size of a man's body:
+they were distributed at equal distances, except that one was omitted to
+the east, probably for the entrance. From the circumference of this
+circle the poles converged towards the centre where they were united and
+secured by large withes of willow brush. There was no covering over this
+fabric, in the centre of which were the remains of a large fire, and
+round it the marks of about eighty leathern lodges. He also saw a number
+of turtledoves, and some pigeons, of which he shot one differing in no
+respect from the wild pigeon of the United States. The country exhibits
+its usual appearances, the timber confined to the river, the country on
+both sides as far as the eye can reach being entirely destitute of trees
+or brush. In the low ground in which we are building the canoes, the
+timber is larger and more abundant than we have seen it on the Missouri
+for several hundred miles. The soil too is good, for the grass and weeds
+reach about two feet high, being the tallest we have observed this
+season, though on the high plains and prairies the grass is at no season
+above three inches in height. Among these weeds are the sandrush, and
+nettle in small quantities; the plains are still infested by great
+numbers of the small birds already mentioned, among whom is the brown
+curlew. The current of the river is here extremely gentle; the buffaloe
+have not yet quite gone, for the hunters brought in three in very good
+order. It requires some diligence to supply us plentifully, for as we
+reserve our parched meal for the Rocky mountains, where we do not expect
+to find much game, our principal article of food is meat, and the
+consumption of the whole thirty-two persons belonging to the party,
+amounts to four deer, an elk and a deer, one buffaloe every twenty four
+hours. The musquitoes and gnats persecute us as violently as below, so
+that we can get no sleep unless defended by biers, with which we are all
+provided. We here found several plants hitherto unknown to us, and of
+which we preserved specimens.
+
+Serjeant Ordway proceeded with the six canoes five miles up the river,
+but the wind becoming so high as to wet the baggage he was obliged to
+unload and dry it. The wind abated at five o'clock in the evening, when
+he again proceeded eight miles and encamped. The next morning,
+
+Sunday, July 14, he joined us about noon. On leaving the Whitebear camp
+he passed at a short distance a little creek or run coming in on the
+left. This had been already examined and called Flattery run; it
+contains back water only, with very extensive low grounds, which rising
+into large plains reach the mountains on the east; then passed a willow
+island on the left within one mile and a half, and reached two miles
+further a cliff of rocks in a bend on the same side. In the course of
+another mile and a half he passed two islands covered with cottonwood,
+box-alder, sweet-willow, and the usual undergrowth, like that of the
+Whitebear islands. At thirteen and three quarter miles he came to the
+mouth of a small creek on the left; within the following nine miles he
+passed three timbered islands, and after making twenty-three and a
+quarter miles from the lower camp, arrived at the point of woodland on
+the north where the canoes were constructed.
+
+The day was fair and warm; the men worked very industriously, and were
+enabled by the evening to lanch the boats, which now want only seats and
+oars to be complete. One of them is twenty-five, the other thirty-three
+feet in length and three feet wide. Captain Lewis walked out between
+three and four miles over the rocky bluffs to a high situation, two
+miles from the river, a little below Fort Mountain creek. The country
+which he saw was in most parts level, but occasionally became varied by
+gentle rises and descents, but with no timber except along the water.
+From this position, the point at which the Missouri enters the first
+chain of the Rocky mountains bore south 28° west about twenty-five
+miles, according to our estimate.
+
+The northern extremity of that chain north 73° west at the distance of
+eighty miles.
+
+To the same extremity of the second chain north 65° west one hundred and
+fifty miles.
+
+To the most remote point of a third and continued chain of these
+mountains north 50° west about two hundred miles.
+
+The direction of the first chain was from south 20° east to north 20°
+west; of the second, from south 45° east to north 45° west; but the eye
+could not reach their southern extremities, which most probably may be
+traced to Mexico. In a course south 75° west, and at the distance of
+eight miles is a mountain, which from its appearance we shall call Fort
+Mountain. It is situated in the level plain, and forms nearly a square,
+each side of which is a mile in extent. These sides, which are composed
+of a yellow clay with no mixture of rock or stone whatever, rise
+perpendicularly to the height of three hundred feet, where the top
+becomes a level plain covered, as captain Lewis now observed, with a
+tolerably fertile mould two feet thick, on which was a coat of grass
+similar to that of the plain below: it has the appearance of being
+perfectly inaccessible, and although the mounds near the falls somewhat
+resemble it, yet none of them are so large.
+
+
+
+
+                                CHAPTER XII.
+
+     The party embark on board the canoes--Description of Smith's
+     river--Character of the country, &c.--Dearborne's river
+     described--Captain Clarke precedes the party for the purpose of
+     discovering the Indians of the Rocky mountains--Magnificent rocky
+     appearances on the borders of the river denominated the Gates of
+     the Rocky mountains--Captain Clarke arrives at the three forks of
+     the Missouri without overtaking the Indians--The party arrive at
+     the three forks, of which a particular and interesting description
+     is given.
+
+
+Monday, July 15. We rose early, embarked all our baggage on board the
+canoes, which though light in number are still heavily loaded, and at
+ten o'clock set out on our journey. At the distance of three miles we
+passed an island, just above which is a small creek coming in from the
+left, which we called Fort Mountain creek, the channel of which is ten
+yards wide but now perfectly dry. At six miles we came to an island
+opposite to a bend towards the north side; and reached at seven and a
+half miles the lower point of a woodland at the entrance of a beautiful
+river, which in honour of the secretary of the navy we called Smith's
+river. This stream falls into a bend on the south side of the Missouri,
+and is eighty yards wide. As far as we could discern its course it wound
+through a charming valley towards the southeast, in which many herds of
+buffaloe were feeding, till at the distance of twenty five miles it
+entered the Rocky mountains, and was lost from our view. After dining
+near this place we proceeded on four and three quarter miles to the head
+of an island; four and a quarter miles beyond which is a second island
+on the left; three and a quarter miles further in a bend of the river
+towards the north, is a wood where we encamped for the night, after
+making nineteen and three quarter miles.
+
+We find the prickly pear, one of the greatest beauties as well as the
+greatest inconveniences of the plains, now in full bloom. The sunflower
+too, a plant common on every part of the Missouri from its entrance to
+this place, is here very abundant and in bloom. The lambsquarter,
+wild-cucumber, sandrush, and narrowdock are also common. Two elk, a
+deer, and an otter, were our game to-day.
+
+The river has now become so much more crooked than below that we omit
+taking all its short meanders, but note only its general course, and lay
+down the small bends on our daily chart by the eye. The general width is
+from one hundred to one hundred and fifty yards. Along the banks are
+large beds of sand raised above the plains, and as they always appear on
+the sides of the river opposite to the southwest exposure, seem
+obviously brought there from the channel of the river by the incessant
+winds from that quarter: we find also more timber than for a great
+distance below the falls.
+
+Tuesday 16. There was a heavy dew last night. We soon passed about forty
+little booths, formed of willow bushes as a shelter against the sun.
+These seemed to have been deserted about ten days, and as we supposed by
+the Snake Indians, or Shoshonees, whom we hope soon to meet, as they
+appeared from the tracks to have a number of horses with them. At three
+and three quarter miles we passed a creek or run in a bend on the left
+side, and four miles further another run or small rivulet on the right.
+After breakfasting on a buffaloe shot by one of the hunters, captain
+Lewis resolved to go on ahead of the party to the point where the river
+enters the Rocky mountains and make the necessary observations before
+our arrival. He therefore set out with Drewyer and two of the sick men
+to whom he supposed the walk would be useful: he travelled on the north
+side of the river through a handsome level plain, which continued on the
+opposite side also, and at the distance of eight miles passed a small
+stream on which he observed a considerable quantity of the aspen tree. A
+little before twelve o'clock he halted on a bend to the north in a low
+ground well covered with timber, about four and a half miles below the
+mountains, and obtained a meridian altitude, by which he found the
+latitude was N. 46° 46' 50" 2"'. His route then lay through a high
+waving plain to a rapid where the Missouri first leaves the Rocky
+mountains, and here he encamped for the night.
+
+In the meantime we had proceeded after breakfast one mile to a bend in
+the left, opposite to which was the frame of a large lodge situated in
+the prairie, constructed like that already mentioned above the Whitebear
+islands, but only sixty feet in diameter: round it were the remains of
+about eighty leathern lodges, all which seemed to have been built during
+the last autumn; within the next fifteen and a quarter miles we passed
+ten islands, on the last of which we encamped near the right shore,
+having made twenty-three miles. The next morning,
+
+Wednesday 17, we set out early, and at four miles distance joined
+captain Lewis at foot of the rapids, and after breakfast began the
+passage of them: some of the articles most liable to be injured by the
+water were carried round. We then double manned the canoes, and with the
+aid of the towing-line got them up without accident. For several miles
+below the rapids the current of the Missouri becomes stronger as you
+approach, and the spurs of the mountains advance towards the river,
+which is deep and not more than seventy yards wide: at the rapids the
+river is closely hemmed in on both sides by the hills, and foams for
+half a mile over the rocks which obstruct its channel. The low grounds
+are now not more than a few yards in width, but they furnish room for an
+Indian road which winds under the hills on the north side of the river.
+The general range of these hills is from southeast to northwest, and the
+cliffs themselves are about eight hundred feet above the water, formed
+almost entirely of a hard black granite, on which are scattered a few
+dwarf pine and cedar trees. Immediately in the gap is a large rock four
+hundred feet high, which on one side is washed by the Missouri, while on
+its other sides a handsome little plain separates it from the
+neighbouring mountains. It may be ascended with some difficulty nearly
+to its summit, and affords a beautiful prospect of the plains below, in
+which we could observe large herds of buffaloe. After ascending the
+rapids for half a mile we came to a small island at the head of them,
+which we called Pine island from a large pine tree at the lower end of
+it, which is the first we have seen near the river for a great distance.
+A mile beyond captain Lewis's camp we had a meridian altitude which gave
+us the latitude of 46° 42' 14" 7"'. As the canoes were still heavily
+loaded all those not employed in working them walked on shore. The
+navigation is now very laborious. The river is deep but with little
+current and from seventy to one hundred yards wide; the low grounds are
+very narrow, with but little timber and that chiefly the aspen tree. The
+cliffs are steep and hang over the river so much that often we could not
+cross them, but were obliged to pass and repass from one side of the
+river to the other in order to make our way. In some places the banks
+are formed of rocks, of dark black granite rising perpendicularly to a
+great height, through which the river seems in the progress of time to
+have worn its channel. On these mountains we see more pine than usual,
+but it is still in small quantities. Along the bottoms, which have a
+covering of high grass, we observe the sunflower blooming in great
+abundance. The Indians of the Missouri, and more especially those who do
+not cultivate maize, make great use of the seed of this plant for bread
+or in thickening their soup. They first parch and then pound it between
+two stones until it is reduced to a fine meal. Sometimes they add a
+portion of water, and drink it thus diluted: at other times they add a
+sufficient proportion of marrow grease to reduce it to the consistency
+of common dough and eat it in that manner. This last composition we
+preferred to all the rest, and thought it at that time a very palatable
+dish. There is however little of the broad-leafed cottonwood on this
+side of the falls, much the greater part of what we see being of the
+narrow-leafed species. There are also great quantities of red, purple,
+yellow and black currants. The currants are very pleasant to the taste,
+and much preferable to those of our common garden. The bush rises to the
+height of six or eight feet; the stem simple, branching and erect. These
+shrubs associate in corps either in upper or timbered lands near the
+water courses. The leaf is peteolate, of a pale green, and in form
+resembles the red currant so common in our gardens. The perianth of the
+fruit is one leaved, five cleft, abbriviated and tubular. The corolla is
+monopetallous, funnel-shaped, very long, and of a fine orange colour.
+There are five stamens and one pistillum of the first, the filaments are
+capillar, inserted in the corolla, equal and converging, the anther
+ovate and incumbent. The germ of the second species is round, smooth,
+inferior and pidicelled: the style long and thicker than the stamens,
+simple, cylindrical, smooth and erect. It remains with the corolla until
+the fruit is ripe, the stamen is simple and obtuse, and the fruit much
+the size and shape of our common garden currants, growing like them in
+clusters supported by a compound footstalk. The peduncles are longer in
+this species, and the berries are more scattered. The fruit is not so
+acid as the common currant, and has a more agreeable flavour.
+
+The other species differs in no respect from the yellow currant
+excepting in the colour and flavour of the berries.
+
+The serviceberry differs in some points from that of the United States.
+The bushes are small, sometimes not more than two feet high, and rarely
+exceed eight inches. They are proportionably small in their stems,
+growing very thickly, associated in clumps. The fruit is of the same
+form, but for the most part larger and of a very dark purple. They are
+now ripe and in great perfection. There are two species of gooseberry
+here, but neither of them yet ripe: nor are the chokecherry, though in
+great quantities. Besides there are also at that place the box alder,
+red willow and a species of sumach. In the evening we saw some mountain
+rams or big-horned animals, but no other game of any sort. After leaving
+Pine island we passed a small run on the left, which is formed by a
+large spring rising at the distance of half a mile under the mountain.
+One mile and a half above the island is another, and two miles further a
+third island, the river making small bends constantly to the north. From
+this last island to a point of rocks on the south side the low grounds
+become rather wider, and three quarters of a mile beyond these rocks, in
+a bend on the north, we encamped opposite to a very high cliff, having
+made during the day eleven and a half miles.
+
+Thursday 18. This morning early before our departure we saw a large herd
+of the big-horned animals, who were bounding among the rocks in the
+opposite cliff with great agility. These inaccessible spots secure them
+from all their enemies, and the only danger is in wandering among these
+precipices, where we should suppose it scarcely possible for any animal
+to stand; a single false step would precipitate them at least five
+hundred feet into the water. At one mile and a quarter we passed another
+single cliff on the left; at the same distance beyond which is the mouth
+of a large river emptying itself from the north. It is a handsome, bold,
+and clear stream, eighty yards wide, that is nearly as broad as the
+Missouri, with a rapid current over a bed of small smooth stones of
+various figures. The water is extremely transparent, the low grounds are
+narrow, but possess as much wood as those of the Missouri; and it has
+every appearance of being navigable, though to what distance we cannot
+ascertain, as the country which it waters, is broken and mountainous. In
+honour of the secretary at war we called it Dearborn's river. Being now
+very anxious to meet with the Shoshonees or Snake Indians, for the
+purpose of obtaining the necessary information of our route, as well as
+to procure horses, it was thought best for one of us to go forward with
+a small party and endeavour to discover them, before the daily discharge
+of our guns, which is necessary for our subsistence, should give them
+notice of our approach: if by an accident they hear us, they will most
+probably retreat to the mountains, mistaking us for their enemies who
+usually attack them on this side. Accordingly captain Clarke set out
+with three men, and followed the course of the river on the north side;
+but the hills were so steep at first that he was not able to go much
+faster than ourselves. In the evening however he cut off many miles of
+the circuitous course of the river, by crossing a mountain over which he
+found a wide Indian road which in many places seems to have been cut or
+dug down in the earth. He passed also two branches of a stream which he
+called Ordway's creek, where he saw a number of beaver-dams extending in
+close succession towards the mountains as far as he could distinguish:
+on the cliffs were many of the big-horned animals. After crossing this
+mountain he encamped near a small stream of running water, having
+travelled twenty miles.
+
+On leaving Dearborn's river we passed at three and a half miles a small
+creek, and at six beyond it an island on the north side of the river,
+which makes within that distance many small bends. At two and a half
+miles further is another island: three quarters of a mile beyond this is
+a small creek on the north side. At a mile and a half above the creek is
+a much larger stream thirty yards wide, and discharging itself with a
+bold current on the north side: the banks are low, and the bed formed of
+stones altogether. To this stream we gave the name of Ordway's creek,
+after serjeant John Ordway. At two miles beyond this the valley widens:
+we passed several bends of the river, and encamped in the centre of one
+on the south, having made twenty-one miles. Here we found a small grove
+of the narrow-leafed cottonwood, there being no longer any of the
+broad-leafed kind since we entered the mountains. The water of these
+rivulets which come down from the mountains is very cold, pure, and well
+tasted. Along their banks as well as on the Missouri the aspen is very
+common, but of a small kind. The river is somewhat wider than we found
+it yesterday; the hills more distant from the river and not so high;
+there are some pines on the mountains, but they are principally confined
+to the upper regions of them: the low grounds are still narrower and
+have little or no timber. The soil near the river is good, and produces
+a luxuriant growth of grass and weeds; among these productions the
+sunflower holds a very distinguished place. For several days past we
+have observed a species of flax in the low grounds, the leaf-stem and
+pericarp of which resemble those of the flax commonly cultivated in the
+United States: the stem rises to the height of two and a half or three
+feet, and spring to the number of eight or ten from the same root, with
+a strong thick bark apparently well calculated for use: the root seems
+to be perennial, and it is probable that the cutting of the stems may
+not at all injure it, for although the seeds are not yet ripe, there are
+young suckers shooting up from the root, whence we may infer that the
+stems which are fully grown and in the proper stage of vegetation to
+produce the best flax, are not essential to the preservation or support
+of the root, a circumstance which would render it a most valuable plant.
+To-day we have met with a second species of flax smaller than the first,
+as it seldom obtains a greater height than nine or twelve inches: the
+leaf and stem resemble those of the species just mentioned, except that
+the latter is rarely branched, and bears a single monopetalous
+bell-shaped blue flower, suspended with its limb downwards. We saw
+several herds of the big-horn, but they were in the cliffs beyond our
+reach. We killed an elk this morning and found part of a deer which had
+been left for us by captain Clarke. He pursued his route,
+
+Friday, 19, early in the morning, and soon passed the remains of several
+Indian camps formed of willow brush, which seemed to have been deserted
+this spring. At the same time he observed that the pine trees had been
+stripped of their bark about the same season, which our Indian woman say
+her countrymen do in order to obtain the sap and the soft parts of the
+wood and bark for food. About eleven o'clock he met a herd of elk and
+killed two of them, but such was the want of wood in the neighbourhood
+that he was unable to procure enough to make a fire, and he was
+therefore obliged to substitute the dung of the buffaloe, with which he
+cooked his breakfast. They then resumed their course along an old Indian
+road. In the afternoon they reached a handsome valley watered by a large
+creek, both of which extend a considerable distance into the mountain:
+this they crossed, and during the evening travelled over a mountainous
+country covered with sharp fragments of flint-rock: these bruised and
+cut their feet very much, but were scarcely less troublesome than the
+prickly pear of the open plains, which have now become so abundant that
+it is impossible to avoid them, and the thorns are so strong that they
+pierce a double soal of dressed deer skin: the best resource against
+them is a soal of buffaloe hide in parchment. At night they reached the
+river much fatigued, having passed two mountains in the course of the
+day and having travelled thirty miles. Captain Clarke's first employment
+on lighting a fire was to extract from his feet the briars, which he
+found seventeen in number.
+
+In the meantime we proceeded on very well, though the water appears to
+increase in rapidity as we advance: the current has indeed been strong
+during the day and obstructed by some rapids, which are not however much
+broken by rocks, and are perfectly safe: the river is deep, and its
+general width is from one hundred to one hundred and fifty yards wide.
+For more than thirteen miles we went along the numerous bends of the
+river and then reached two small islands; three and three quarter miles
+beyond which is a small creek in a bend to the left, above a small
+island on the right side of the river. We were regaled about ten o'clock
+P.M. with a thunder storm of rain and hail which lasted for an hour, but
+during the day in this confined valley, through which we are passing,
+the heat is almost insupportable; yet whenever we obtain a glimpse of
+the lofty tops of the mountains we are tantalized with a view of the
+snow. These mountains have their sides and summits partially varied with
+little copses of pine, cedar, and balsam fir. A mile and a half beyond
+this creek the rocks approach the river on both sides, forming a most
+sublime and extraordinary spectacle. For five and three quarter miles
+these rocks rise perpendicularly from the water's edge to the height of
+nearly twelve hundred feet. They are composed of a black granite near
+its base, but from its lighter colour above and from the fragments we
+suppose the upper part to be flint of a yellowish brown and cream
+colour. Nothing can be imagined more tremendous than the frowning
+darkness of these rocks, which project over the river and menace us with
+destruction. The river, of one hundred and fifty yards in width, seems
+to have forced its channel down this solid mass, but so reluctantly has
+it given way that during the whole distance the water is very deep even
+at the edges, and for the first three miles there is not a spot except
+one of a few yards, in which a man could stand between the water and the
+towering perpendicular of the mountain: the convulsion of the passage
+must have been terrible, since at its outlet there are vast columns of
+rock torn from the mountain which are strewed on both sides of the
+river, the trophies as it were of the victory. Several fine springs
+burst out from the chasms of the rock, and contribute to increase the
+river, which has now a strong current, but very fortunately we are able
+to overcome it with our oars, since it would be impossible to use
+either the cord or the pole. We were obliged to go on some time after
+dark, not being able to find a spot large enough to encamp on, but at
+length about two miles above a small inland in the middle of the river
+we met with a spot on the left side, where we procured plenty of
+lightwood and pitchpine. This extraordinary range of rocks we called the
+Gates of the Rocky mountains. We had made twenty-two miles; and four and
+a quarter miles from the entrance of the gates. The mountains are higher
+to-day than they were yesterday. We saw some big-horns, a few antelopes
+and beaver, but since entering the mountains have found no buffaloe: the
+otter are however in great plenty: the musquitoes have become less
+troublesome than they were.
+
+Saturday 20. By employing the towrope whenever the banks permitted the
+use of it, the river being too deep for the pole, we were enabled to
+overcome the current which is still strong. At the distance of half a
+mile we came to a high rock in a bend to the left in the Gates. Here the
+perpendicular rocks cease, the hills retire from the river, and the
+vallies suddenly widen to a greater extent than they have been since we
+entered the mountains. At this place was some scattered timber,
+consisting of the narrow-leafed cottonwood, the aspen, and pine. There
+are also vast quantities of gooseberries, serviceberries, and several
+species of currant, among which is one of a black colour, the flavour of
+which is preferable to that of the yellow, and would be deemed superior
+to that of any currant in the United States. We here killed an elk which
+was a pleasant addition to our stock of food. At a mile from the Gates,
+a large creek comes down from the mountains and empties itself behind an
+island in the middle of a bend to the north. To this stream which is
+fifteen yards wide we gave the name of Potts's creek, after John Potts,
+one of our men. Up this valley about seven miles we discovered a great
+smoke, as if the whole country had been set on fire; but were at a loss
+to decide whether it had been done accidentally by captain Clarke's
+party, or by the Indians as a signal on their observing us. We
+afterwards learnt that this last was the fact; for they had heard a gun
+fired by one of captain Clarke's men, and believing that their enemies
+were approaching had fled into the mountains, first setting fire to the
+plains as a warning to their countrymen. We continued our course along
+several islands, and having made in the course of the day fifteen miles,
+encamped just above an island, at a spring on a high bank on the left
+side of the river. In the latter part of the evening we had passed
+through a low range of mountains, and the country became more open,
+though still unbroken and without timber, and the lowlands not very
+extensive: and just above our camp the river is again closed in by the
+mountains. We found on the banks an elk which captain Clarke had left
+us, with a note mentioning that he should pass the mountains just above
+us and wait our arrival at some convenient place. We saw but could not
+procure some redheaded ducks and sandhill cranes along the sides of the
+river, and a woodpecker about the size of the lark-woodpecker, which
+seems to be a distinct species: it is as black as a crow with a long
+tail, and flies like a jaybird. The whole country is so infested by the
+prickly pear that we could scarcely find room to lie down at our camp.
+
+Captain Clarke on setting out this morning had gone through the valley
+about six miles to the right of the river. He soon fell into an old
+Indian road which he pursued till he reached the Missouri, at the
+distance of eighteen miles from his last encampment, just above the
+entrance of a large creek, which we afterwards called Whiteearth creek.
+Here he found his party so much cut and pierced with the sharp flint and
+the prickly pear that he proceeded only a small distance further, and
+then halted to wait for us. Along his track he had taken the precaution
+to strew signals, such as pieces of cloth, paper and linen, to prove to
+the Indians, if by accident they met his track, that we were white men.
+But he observed a smoke some distance ahead, and concluded that the
+whole country had now taken the alarm.
+
+Sunday 21. On leaving our camp we passed an island at half a mile, and
+reached at one mile a bad rapid at the place where the river leaves the
+mountain: here the cliffs are high and covered with fragments of broken
+rocks, the current is also strong, but although more rapid the river is
+wider and shallower, so that we are able to use the pole occasionally,
+though we principally depend on the towline. On leaving this rapid which
+is about half a mile in extent, the country opens on each side; the
+hills become lower; at one mile is a large island on the left side, and
+four and a half beyond it a large and bold creek twenty-eight yards
+wide, coming in from the north, where it waters a handsome valley: we
+called it Pryor's creek after one of the sergeants, John Pryor. At a
+mile above this creek on the left side of the Missouri we obtained a
+meridian altitude, which gave 46° 10' 32" 9"' as the latitude of the
+place. For the following four miles, the country, like that through
+which we passed during the rest of the day, is rough and mountainous as
+we found it yesterday; but at the distance of twelve miles, we came
+towards evening into a beautiful plain ten or twelve miles wide and
+extending as far the eye could reach. This plain or rather valley is
+bounded by two nearly parallel ranges of high mountains whose summits
+are partially covered with snow, below which the pine is scattered along
+the sides down to the plain in some places, though the greater part of
+their surface has no timber and exhibits only a barren soil with no
+covering except dry parched grass or black rugged rocks. On entering the
+valley the river assumes a totally different aspect; it spreads to more
+than a mile in width, and though more rapid than before, is shallow
+enough in almost every part for the use of the pole, while its bed is
+formed of smooth stones and some large rocks, as it has been indeed
+since we entered the mountains: it is also divided by a number of
+islands some of which are large near the northern shore. The soil of the
+valley is a rich black loam apparently very fertile, and covered with a
+fine green grass about eighteen inches or two feet in height; while that
+of the high grounds is perfectly dry and seems scorched by the sun. The
+timber though still scarce is in greater quantities in this valley than
+we have seen it since entering the mountains, and seems to prefer the
+borders of the small creeks to the banks of the river itself. We
+advanced three and a half miles in this valley and encamped on the left
+side, having made in all fifteen and a half miles.
+
+Our only large game to-day was one deer. We saw however two pheasants of
+a dark brown colour, much larger than the same species of bird in the
+United States. In the morning too, we saw three swans which, like the
+geese, have not yet recovered the feathers of the wing, and were unable
+to fly: we killed two of them, and the third escaped by diving and
+passing down the current. These are the first we have seen on the river
+for a great distance, and as they had no young with them, we presume
+that they do not breed in this neighbourhood. Of the geese we daily see
+great numbers, with their young perfectly feathered except on the wings,
+where both young and old are deficient; the first are very fine food,
+but the old ones are poor and unfit for use. Several of the large brown
+or sandhill crane are feeding in the low grounds on the grass which
+forms their principal food. The young crane cannot fly at this season:
+they are as large as a turkey, of a bright reddish bay colour. Since the
+river has become shallow we have caught a number of trout to-day, and a
+fish, white on the belly and sides, but of a bluish cast on the back,
+and a long pointed mouth opening somewhat like that of the shad.
+
+This morning captain Clarke wishing to hunt but fearful of alarming the
+Indians, went up the river for three miles, when finding neither any of
+them nor of their recent tracks returned, and then his little party
+separated to look for game. They killed two bucks and a doe, and a young
+curlew nearly feathered: in the evening they found the musquitoes as
+troublesome as we did: these animals attack us as soon as the labours
+and fatigues of the day require some rest, and annoy us till several
+hours after dark, when the coldness of the air obliges them to
+disappear; but such is their persecution that were it not for our biers
+we should obtain no repose.
+
+Monday, 22. We set out at an early hour. The river being divided into so
+many channels by both large and small islands, that it was impossible to
+lay it down accurately by following in a canoe any single channel,
+captain Lewis walked on shore, took the general courses of the river,
+and from the rising grounds laid down the situation of the islands and
+channels, which he was enabled to do with perfect accuracy, the view not
+being obstructed by much timber. At one mile and a quarter we passed an
+island somewhat larger than the rest, and four miles further reached the
+upper end of another, on which we breakfasted. This is a large island
+forming in the middle of a bend to the north a level fertile plain ten
+feet above the surface of the water and never overflowed. Here we found
+great quantities of a small onion about the size of a musket ball,
+though some were larger; it is white, crisp, and as well flavoured as
+any of our garden onions; the seed is just ripening, and as the plant
+bears a large quantity to the square foot, and stands the rigours of the
+climate, it will no doubt be an acquisition to settlers. From this
+production we called it Onion island. During the next seven and three
+quarter miles we passed several long circular bends, and a number of
+large and small islands which divide the river into many channels, and
+then reached the mouth of a creek on the north side. It is composed of
+three creeks which unite in a handsome valley about four miles before
+they discharge themselves into the Missouri, where it is about fifteen
+feet wide and eight feet deep, with clear transparent water. Here we
+halted for dinner, but as the canoes took different channels in
+ascending it was some time before they all joined. Here we were
+delighted to find that the Indian woman recognizes the country; she
+tells us that to this creek her countrymen make excursions to procure a
+white paint on its banks, and we therefore call it Whiteearth creek. She
+says also that the three forks of the Missouri are at no great distance,
+a piece of intelligence which has cheered the spirits of us all, as we
+hope soon to reach the head of that river. This is the warmest day
+except one we have experienced this summer. In the shade the mercury
+stood at 80° above 0, which is the second time it has reached that
+height during this season. We encamped on an island after making
+nineteen and three quarter miles.
+
+In the course of the day we saw many geese, cranes, small birds common
+to the plains, and a few pheasants: we also observed a small plover or
+curlew of a brown colour, about the size of the yellow-legged plover or
+jack curlew, but of a different species. It first appeared near the
+mouth of Smith's river, but is so shy and vigilant that we were unable
+to shoot it. Both the broad and narrow-leafed willow continue, though
+the sweet willow has become very scarce. The rosebush, small
+honeysuckle, the pulpy-leafed thorn, southern wood, sage and box-alder,
+narrow-leafed cottonwood, redwood, and a species of sumach, are all
+abundant. So too are the red and black gooseberries, serviceberries,
+chokecherry, and the black, red, yellow, and purple currant, which last
+seems to be a favourite food of the bear. Before encamping we landed and
+took on board captain Clarke with the meat he had collected during this
+day's hunt, which consisted of one deer and an elk: we had ourselves
+shot a deer and an antelope. The musquitoes and gnats were unusually
+fierce this evening.
+
+Tuesday, 23. Captain Clarke again proceeded with four men along the
+right bank. During the whole day the river divided by a number of
+islands, which spread it out sometimes to the distance of three miles:
+the current is very rapid and has many ripples; and the bed formed of
+gravel and smooth stones. The banks along the low grounds are of a rich
+loam, followed occasionally by low bluffs of yellow and red clay, with a
+hard red slatestone intermixed. The low grounds are wide, and have very
+little timber but a thick underbrush of willow, and rose and currant
+bushes: these are succeeded by high plains extending on each side to the
+base of the mountains, which lie parallel to the river about eight or
+twelve miles apart, and are high and rocky, with some small pine and
+cedar interspersed on them. At the distance of seven miles a creek
+twenty yards wide, after meandering through a beautiful low ground on
+the left for several miles parallel to the river, empties itself near a
+cluster of small islands: the stream we called Whitehouse creek after
+Joseph Whitehouse one of the party, and the islands from their number
+received the name of the "Ten islands." About ten o'clock we came up
+with Drewyer, who had gone out to hunt yesterday, and not being able to
+find our encampment had staid out all night: he now supplied us with
+five deer. Three and a quarter miles beyond Whitehouse creek we came
+to the lower point of an island where the river is three hundred yards
+wide, and continued along it for one mile and a quarter, and then passed
+a second island just above it. We halted rather early for dinner in
+order to dry some part of the baggage which had been wet in the canoes:
+we then proceeded, and at five and a half miles had passed two small
+islands. Within the next three miles we came to a large island, which
+from its figure we called Broad island. From that place we made three
+and a half miles, and encamped on an island to the left, opposite to
+a much larger one on the right. Our journey to-day was twenty-two and
+a quarter miles, the greater part of which was made by means of our
+poles and cords, the use of which the banks much favoured. During the
+whole time we had the small flags hoisted in the canoes to apprise the
+Indians, if there were any in the neighbourhood, of our being white men
+and their friends; but we were not so fortunate as to discover any of
+them. Along the shores we saw great quantities of the common thistle,
+and procured a further supply of wild onions and a species of garlic
+growing on the highlands, which is now green and in bloom: it has a
+flat leaf, and is strong, tough, and disagreeable. There was also much
+of the wild flax, of which we now obtained some ripe seed, as well as
+some bullrush and cattail flag. Among the animals we met with a black
+snake about two feet long, with the belly as dark as any other part
+of the body, which was perfectly black, and which had one hundred and
+twenty-eight scuta on the belly and sixty-three on the tail: we also saw
+antelopes, crane, geese, ducks, beaver, and otter; and took up four deer
+which had been left on the water side by captain Clarke. He had pursued
+all day an Indian road on the right side of the river, and encamped late
+in the evening at the distance of twenty-five miles from our camp of
+last night. In the course of his walk he met besides deer a number of
+antelopes and a herd of elk, but all the tracks of Indians, though
+numerous, were of an old date.
+
+Wednesday, 24. We proceeded for four and a quarter miles along several
+islands to a small run, just above which the low bluffs touch the river.
+Within three and a half miles further we came to a small island on the
+north, and a remarkable bluff composed of earth of a crimson colour,
+intermixed with stratas of slate, either black or of a red resembling
+brick. The following six and three quarter miles brought us to an
+assemblage of islands, having passed four at different distances; and
+within the next five miles we met the same number of islands, and
+encamped on the north after making nineteen and a half miles. The
+current of the river was strong and obstructed, as indeed it has been
+for some days by small rapids or ripples which descend from one to three
+feet in the course of one hundred and fifty yards, but they are rarely
+incommoded by any fixed rocks, and therefore, though the water is rapid,
+the passage is not attended with danger. The valley through which the
+river passes is like that of yesterday; the nearest hills generally
+concealing the most distant from us; but when we obtain a view of them
+they present themselves in amphitheatre, rising above each other as they
+recede from the river till the most remote are covered with snow. We saw
+many otter and beaver to-day: the latter seem to contribute very much to
+the number of islands and the widening of the river. They begin by
+damming up the small channels of about twenty yards between the islands;
+this obliges the river to seek another outlet, and as soon as this is
+effected the channel stopped by the beaver becomes filled with mud and
+sand. The industrious animal is then driven to another channel which
+soon shares the same fate, till the river spreads on all sides, and cuts
+the projecting points of the land into islands. We killed a deer and saw
+great numbers of antelopes, cranes, some geese, and a few redheaded
+ducks. The small birds of the plains and the curlew are still abundant:
+we saw but could not come within gunshot of a large bear. There is much
+of the track of elk but none of the animals themselves, and from the
+appearance of bones and old excrement, we suppose that buffaloe have
+sometimes strayed into the valley, though we have as yet seen no recent
+sign of them. Along the water are a number of snakes, some of a brown
+uniform colour, others black, and a third speckled on the abdomen, and
+striped with black and a brownish yellow in the back and sides. The
+first, which are the largest, are about four feet long; the second is of
+the kind mentioned yesterday, and the third resembles in size and
+appearance the garter-snake of the United States. On examining the teeth
+of all these several kinds we found them free from poison: they are fond
+of the water, in which they take shelter on being pursued. The
+mosquitoes, gnats, and prickly pear, our three persecutors, still
+continue with us, and joined with the labour of working the canoes have
+fatigued us all excessively. Captain Clarke continued along the Indian
+road which led him up a creek. About ten o'clock he saw at the distance
+of six miles a horse feeding in the plains. He went towards him, but the
+animal was so wild that he could not get within several hundred paces of
+him: he then turned obliquely to the river where he killed a deer and
+dined, having passed in this valley five handsome streams, only one of
+which had any timber; another had some willows, and was very much dammed
+up by the beaver. After dinner he continued his route along the river
+and encamped at the distance of thirty miles. As he went along he saw
+many tracks of Indians, but none of recent date. The next morning,
+
+Thursday, 25, at the distance of a few miles he arrived at the three
+forks of the Missouri. Here he found that the plains had been recently
+burnt on the north side, and saw the track of a horse which seemed to
+have passed about four or five days since. After breakfast he examined
+the rivers, and finding that the north branch, although not larger,
+contained more water than the middle branch, and bore more to the
+westward, he determined to ascend it. He therefore left a note informing
+captain Lewis of his intention, and then went up that stream on the
+north side for about twenty-five miles. Here Chaboneau was unable to
+proceed any further, and the party therefore encamped, all of them much
+fatigued, their feet blistered and wounded by the prickly pear.
+
+In the meantime we left our camp, and proceeded on very well, though the
+water is still rapid and has some occasional ripples. The country is
+much like that of yesterday: there are however fewer islands, for we
+passed only two. Behind one of them is a large creek twenty-five yards
+wide, to which we gave the name of Gass's creek, from one of our
+serjeants, Patrick Gass: it is formed by the union of five streams,
+which descend from the mountains and join in the plain near the river.
+On this island we saw a large brown bear, but he retreated to the shore
+and ran off before we could approach him. These animals seem more shy
+than they were below the mountains. The antelopes have again collected
+in small herds, composed of several females with their young, attended
+by one or two males, though some of the males are still solitary or
+wander in parties of two over the plains, which the antelope invariably
+prefers to the woodlands, and to which it always retreats if by accident
+it is found straggling in the hills, confiding no doubt in its wonderful
+fleetness. We also killed a few young geese, but as this game is small
+and very incompetent to the subsistence of the party, we have forbidden
+the men any longer to waste their ammunition on them. About four and a
+half miles above Gass's creek, the valley in which we have been
+travelling ceases, the high craggy cliffs again approach the river,
+which now enters or rather leaves what appears to be a second great
+chain of the Rocky mountains. About a mile after entering these hills or
+low mountains we passed a number of fine bold springs, which burst out
+near the edge of the river under the cliffs on the left, and furnished a
+fine freestone water: near these we met with two of the worst rapids we
+have seen since entering the mountains; a ridge of sharp pointed rocks
+stretching across the river, leaving but small and dangerous channels
+for the navigation. The cliffs are of a lighter colour than those we
+have already passed, and in the bed of the river is some limestone which
+is small and worn smooth, and seems to have been brought down by the
+current. We went about a mile further and encamped under a high bluff on
+the right opposite to a cliff of rocks, having made sixteen miles.
+
+All these cliffs appeared to have been undermined by the water at some
+period, and fallen down from the hills on their sides, the stratas of
+rock sometimes lying with their edges upwards, others not detached from
+the hills are depressed obliquely on the side next the river as if they
+had sunk to fill up the cavity formed by the washing of the river.
+
+In the open places among the rocky cliffs are two kinds of gooseberry,
+one yellow and the other red. The former species was observed for the
+first time near the falls, the latter differs from it in no respect
+except in colour and in being of a larger size; both have a sweet
+flavour, and are rather indifferent fruit.
+
+Friday 26. We again found the current strong and the ripples frequent:
+these we were obliged to overcome by means of the cord and the pole, the
+oar being scarcely ever used except in crossing to take advantage of the
+shore. Within three and three quarter miles we passed seven small
+islands and reached the mouth of a large creek which empties itself in
+the centre of a bend on the left side: it is a bold running stream
+fifteen yards wide, and received the name of Howard creek after John P.
+Howard one of the party. One mile beyond it is a small run which falls
+in on the same side just above a rocky cliff. Here the mountains recede
+from the river, and the valley widens to the extent of several miles.
+The river now becomes crowded with islands of which we passed ten in the
+next thirteen and three quarter miles, then at the distance of eighteen
+miles we encamped on the left shore near a rock in the centre of a bend
+towards the left, and opposite to two more islands. This valley has wide
+low grounds covered with high grass, and in many with a fine turf of
+green sward. The soil of the highlands is thin and meagre, without any
+covering except a low sedge and a dry kind of grass which is almost as
+inconvenient as the prickly pear. The seeds of it are armed with a long
+twisted hard beard at their upper extremity, while the lower part is a
+sharp firm point, beset at its base with little stiff bristles, with the
+points in a direction contrary to the subulate point to which they
+answer as a barb. We see also another species of prickly pear. It is of
+a globular form, composed of an assemblage of little conic leaves
+springing from a common root to which their small points are attached
+as a common centre, and the base of the cone forms the apex of the leaf
+which is garnished with a circular range of sharp thorns like the
+cochineal plant, and quite as stiff and even more keen than those of the
+common flat-leafed species. Between the hills the river had been
+confined within one hundred and fifty or two hundred yards, but in the
+valley it widens to two hundred or two hundred and fifty yards, and
+sometimes is spread by its numerous islands to the distance of three
+quarters of a mile. The banks are low, but the river never overflows
+them. On entering the valley we again saw the snow-clad mountains before
+us, but the appearance of the hills as well as of the timber near us is
+much as heretofore.
+
+Finding Chaboneau unable to proceed captain Clarke left him with one of
+the men, and accompanied by the other went up the river about twelve
+miles to the top of a mountain. Here he had an extensive view of the
+river valley upwards and saw a large creek which flowed in on the right
+side. He however discovered no fresh sign of the Indians, and therefore
+determined to examine the middle branch and join us by the time we
+reached the forks: he descended the mountain by an Indian path which
+wound through a deep valley, and at length reached a fine cold spring.
+The day had been very warm, the path unshaded by timber, and his thirst
+was excessive; he was therefore tempted to drink: but although he took
+the precaution of previously wetting his head, feet and hands, he soon
+found himself very unwell; he continued his route, and after resting
+with Chaboneau at his camp, resumed his march across the north fork near
+a large island. The first part was knee deep, but on the other side of
+the island the water came to their waists and was so rapid that
+Chaboneau was on the point of being swept away, and not being able to
+swim would have perished if captain Clarke had not rescued him. While
+crossing the island they killed two brown bear and saw great quantities
+of beaver. He then went on to a small river which falls into the north
+fork some miles above its junction with the two others: here, finding
+himself grow more unwell, he halted for the night at the distance of
+four miles from his last encampment.
+
+Saturday 27. We proceeded on but slowly, the current being still so
+rapid as to require the utmost exertions of us all to advance, and the
+men are losing their strength fast in consequence of their constant
+efforts. At half a mile we passed an island, and a mile and a quarter
+further again entered a ridge of hills which now approach the river with
+cliffs apparently sinking like those of yesterday. They are composed of
+a solid limestone of a light lead colour when exposed to the air, though
+when freshly broken it is of a deep blue, and of an excellent quality
+and very fine grain. On these cliffs were numbers of the bighorn. At two
+and a half miles we reached the centre of a bend towards the south
+passing a small island, and at one mile and a quarter beyond this
+reached about nine in the morning the mouth of a river seventy yards
+wide, which falls in from the southeast. Here the country suddenly opens
+into extensive and beautiful meadows and plains, surrounded on every
+side with distant and lofty mountains. Captain Lewis went up this stream
+for about half a mile, and from the height of a limestone cliff could
+observe its course about seven miles, and the three forks of the
+Missouri, of which this river is one. Its extreme point bore S. 65° E.
+and during the seven miles it passes through a green extensive meadow of
+fine grass dividing itself into several streams, the largest passing
+near the ridge of hills on which he stood. On the right side of the
+Missouri a high, wide and extensive plain succeeds to this low meadow
+which reaches the hills. In the meadow a large spring rises about a
+quarter of a mile from this Southeast fork, into which it discharges
+itself on the right side about four hundred paces from where he stood.
+Between the southeast and middle forks a distant range of snow-topped
+mountains spread from east to south above the irregular broken hills
+nearer to this spot: the middle and southwest forks unite at half a mile
+above the entrance of the southeast fork. The extreme point at which the
+former can be seen, bears S. 15° E. and at the distance of fourteen
+miles, where it turns to the right round the point of a high plain and
+disappears from the view. Its low grounds are several miles in width,
+forming a smooth and beautiful green meadow, and like the southeast fork
+it divides itself into several streams. Between these two forks and near
+their junction with that from the southwest, is a position admirably
+well calculated for a fort. It is a limestone rock of an oblong form,
+rising from the plain perpendicularly to the height of twenty-five feet
+on three of its sides; the fourth towards the middle fork being a
+gradual ascent and covered with a fine green sward, as is also the top
+which is level and contains about two acres. An extensive plain lies
+between the middle and southwest forks, the last of which after watering
+a country like that of the other two branches, disappears about twelve
+miles off, at a point bearing south 30° west. It is also more divided
+and serpentine in its course than the other two, and possesses more
+timber in its meadows. This timber consists almost exclusively of the
+narrow-leafed cottonwood, with an inter-mixture of box alder and
+sweet-willow, the underbrush being thick and like that of the Missouri
+lower down. A range of high mountains partially covered with snow is
+seen at a considerable distance running from south to west, and nearly
+all around us are broken ridges of country like that below, through
+which those united streams appear to have forced their passage: after
+observing the country captain Lewis descended to breakfast. We then left
+the mouth of the southeast fork, to which in honour of the secretary of
+the treasury we called Gallatin's river, and at the distance of half a
+mile reached the confluence of the southwest and middle branch of the
+Missouri. Here we found the letter from captain Clarke, and as we
+agreed with him that the direction of the southwest fork gave it a
+decided preference over the others, we ascended that branch of the river
+for a mile, and encamped in a level handsome plain on the left: having
+advanced only seven miles. Here we resolved to wait the return of
+captain Clarke, and in the meantime make the necessary celestial
+observations, as this seems an essential point in the geography of the
+western world, and also to recruit the men and air the baggage. It was
+accordingly all unloaded and stowed away on shore. Near the three forks
+we saw many collections of the mud-nests of the small martin attached to
+the smooth faces of the limestone rock, where they were sheltered by
+projections of the rock above it: and in the meadows were numbers of the
+duck or mallard with their young, who are now nearly grown. The hunters
+returned towards evening with six deer, three otter and a muskrat; and
+had seen great numbers of antelopes, and much sign of the beaver and
+elk.
+
+During all last night captain Clarke had a high fever and chills
+accompanied with great pain. He however pursued his route eight miles to
+the middle branch, where not finding any fresh Indian track he came down
+it and joined us about three o'clock, very much exhausted with fatigue
+and the violence of his fever. Believing himself bilious he took a dose
+of Rush's pills, which we have always found sovereign in such cases, and
+bathing the lower extremities in warm water.
+
+We are now very anxious to see the Snake Indians. After advancing for
+several hundred miles into this wild and mountainous country, we may
+soon expect that the game will abandon us. With no information of the
+route we may be unable to find a passage across the mountains when we
+reach the head of the river, at least such a one as will lead us to the
+Columbia, and even were we so fortunate as to find a branch of that
+river, the timber which we have hitherto seen in these mountains does
+not promise us any fit to make canoes, so that our chief dependence is
+on meeting some tribe from whom we may procure horses. Our consolation
+is, that this southwest branch can scarcely head with any other river
+than the Columbia, and that if any nation of Indians can live in the
+mountains we are able to endure as much as they, and have even better
+means of procuring subsistence.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XIII.
+
+     The name of the Missouri changed, as the river now divides itself
+     into three forks, one of which is called after Jefferson, the other
+     Madison, and the other after Gallatin--their general character--the
+     party ascend the Jefferson branch--description of the river
+     Philosophy which enters into the Jefferson--captain Lewis and a
+     small party go in advance in search of the Shoshonees--description
+     of the country, &c. bordering on the river--captain Lewis still
+     preceding the main party in quest of the Shoshonees--a singular
+     accident which prevented captain Clarke from following captain
+     Lewis's advice, and ascending the middle fork of the
+     river--description of Philanthropy river, another stream running
+     into the Jefferson--captain Lewis and a small party having been
+     unsuccessful in their first attempt, set off a second time in quest
+     of the Shoshonees.
+
+
+Sunday, July 28. Captain Clarke continued very unwell during the night,
+but was somewhat relieved this morning. On examining the two streams it
+became difficult to decide which was the larger or the real Missouri;
+they are each ninety yards wide and so perfectly similar in character
+and appearance that they seem to have been formed in the same mould. We
+were therefore induced to discontinue the name of Missouri, and gave to
+the southwest branch the name of Jefferson in honour of the president of
+the United States, and the projector of the enterprise: and called the
+middle branch Madison, after James Madison secretary of state. These
+two, as well as Gallatin river, run with great velocity and throw out
+large bodies of water. Gallatin river is however the most rapid of the
+three, and though not quite as deep, yet navigable for a considerable
+distance. Madison river though much less rapid than the Gallatin, is
+somewhat more rapid than the Jefferson; the beds of all of them are
+formed of smooth pebble and gravel, and the waters are perfectly
+transparent. The timber in the neighbourhood would be sufficient for
+the ordinary uses of an establishment, which, however, it would be
+adviseable to build of brick, as the earth appears calculated for that
+purpose, and along the shores are some bars of fine pure sand. The
+greater part of the men, having yesterday put their deer skins in water,
+were this day engaged in dressing them, for the purpose of making
+clothing. The weather was very warm, the thermometer in the afternoon
+was at 90° above 0, and the musquitoes more than usually inconvenient:
+we were, however, relieved from them by a high wind from the southwest,
+which came on at four o'clock, bringing a storm of thunder and
+lightning, attended by refreshing showers, which continued till after
+dark. In the evening the hunters returned with eight deer and two elk;
+and the party who had been sent up the Gallatin, reported that after
+passing the point, where it escaped from captain* Lewis's view
+yesterday, it turned more towards the east, as far as they could discern
+the opening of the mountains, formed by the valley which bordered it.
+The low grounds were still wide but not so extensive as near its mouth,
+and though the stream is rapid and much divided by islands, it is still
+sufficiently deep for navigation with canoes. The low grounds, although
+not more than eight or nine feet above the water, seem never to be
+overflowed, except a part on the west side of the middle fork, which is
+stony and seems occasionally inundated, are furnished with great
+quantities of small fruit, such as currants and gooseberries: among the
+last of which is a black species, which we observe not only in the
+meadows but along the mountain rivulets. From the same root rise a
+number of stems to the height of five or six feet, some of them
+particularly branched and all reclining. The berry is attached by a long
+peduncle to the stem, from which they hang of a smooth ovate form, as
+large as the common garden gooseberry, and as black as jet, though the
+pulp is of a bright crimson colour. It is extremely acid: the form of
+the leaf resembles that of the common gooseberry, though larger. The
+stem is covered with very sharp thorns or briars: the grass too is very
+luxuriant and would yield fine hay in parcels of several acres. The
+sand-rushes will grow in many places as high as a man's breast, and as
+thick as stalks of wheat; it would supply the best food during the
+winter to cattle of any trading or military post.
+
+Sacajawea, our Indian woman, informs us that we are encamped on the
+precise spot where her countrymen, the Snake Indians, had their huts
+five years ago, when the Minnetarees of Knife river first came in sight
+of them, and from which they hastily retreated three miles up the
+Jefferson, and concealed themselves in the woods. The Minnetarees,
+however, pursued and attacked them, killed four men, as many women, and
+a number of boys; and made prisoners of four other boys, and all the
+females, of whom Sacajawea was one: she does not, however, show any
+distress at these recollections, nor any joy at the prospect of being
+restored to her country; for she seems to possess the folly or the
+philosophy of not suffering her feelings to extend beyond the anxiety of
+having plenty to eat and a few trinkets to wear.
+
+Monday 29. This morning the hunters brought in some fat deer of the
+long-tailed red kind, which are quite as large as those of the United
+States, and are, indeed, the only kind we have found at this place:
+there are numbers of the sandhill cranes feeding in the meadows; we
+caught a young one of the same colour as the red deer, which, though it
+had nearly attained its full growth could not fly; it is very fierce and
+strikes a severe blow with its beak. The kingfisher has become quite
+common on this side of the falls: but we have seen none of the summer
+duck since leaving that place. The mallard duck, which we saw for the
+first time on the 20th instant, with their young, are now abundant,
+though they do not breed on the Missouri, below the mountains. The small
+birds already described are also abundant in the plains; here too, are
+great quantities of grasshoppers or crickets; and among other animals, a
+large ant with a reddish brown body and legs, and a black head and
+abdomen, who build little cones of gravel, ten or twelve inches high,
+without a mixture of sticks, and but little earth. In the river we see a
+great abundance of fish, but we cannot tempt them to bite by any thing
+on our hooks. The whole party have been engaged in dressing skins, and
+making them into moccasins and leggings. Captain Clarke's fever has
+almost left him, but he still remains very languid and has a general
+soreness in his limbs. The latitude of our camp, as the mean of two
+observations of the meridian altitude of the sun's lower limb with
+octant by back observation is N. 45° 24' 8" 5"'.
+
+Tuesday 30. Captain Clarke was this morning much restored; and,
+therefore, having made all the observations necessary to fix the
+longitude, we reloaded our canoes, and began to ascend Jefferson river.
+The river now becomes very crooked, and forms bends on each side; the
+current too is rapid, and cut into a great number of channels, and
+sometimes shoals, the beds of which consist of coarse gravel. The
+islands are unusually numerous: on the right are high plains
+occasionally forming cliffs of rocks and hills; while the left was an
+extensive low ground and prairie intersected by a number of bayous or
+channels falling into the river. Captain Lewis, who had walked through
+it with Chaboneau, his wife, and two invalids, joined us at dinner, a
+few miles above our camp. Here the Indian woman said was the place where
+she had been made prisoner. The men being too few to contend with the
+Minnetarees, mounted their horses, and fled as soon as the attack began.
+The women and children dispersed, and Sacajawea as she was crossing at a
+shoal place, was overtaken in the middle of the river by her pursuers.
+As we proceeded, the low grounds were covered with cottonwood and a
+thick underbrush, and on both sides of the river, except where the high
+hills prevented it, the ground was divided by bayous, which are dammed
+up by the beaver, which are very numerous here. We made twelve and a
+quarter miles, and encamped on the north side. Captain Lewis proceeded
+after dinner, through an extensive low ground of timber and meadow land
+intermixed; but the bayous were so obstructed by beaver dams, that in
+order to avoid them he directed his course towards the high plain on the
+right. This he gained with some difficulty, after wading up to his waist
+through the mud and water of a number of beaver dams. When he desired to
+rejoin the canoes he found the underbrush so thick, and the river so
+crooked, that this, joined to the difficulty of passing the beaver dams,
+induced him to go on and endeavour to intercept the river at some point
+where it might be more collected into one channel and approach nearer to
+the high plain. He arrived at the bank about sunset, having gone only
+six miles in a direct course from the canoes: but he saw no traces of
+the men, nor did he receive any answer to his shouts nor the firing of
+his gun. It was now nearly dark; a duck lighted near him and he shot it.
+He then went on the head of a small island where he found some
+driftwood, which enabled him to cook his duck for supper, and he laid
+down to sleep on some willow brush. The night was cool, but the
+driftwood gave him a good fire, and he suffered no inconvenience except
+from the mosquitoes.
+
+Wednesday 31. The next morning he waited till after seven o'clock, when
+he became uneasy lest we should have gone beyond his camp last evening
+and determined to follow us. Just as he had set out with this intention,
+he saw one of the party in advance of the canoes; although our camp was
+only two miles below him, in a straight line, we could not reach him
+sooner, in consequence of the rapidity of the water and the circuitous
+course of the river. We halted for breakfast, after which captain Lewis
+continued his route. At the distance of one mile from our encampment we
+passed the principal entrance of a stream on the left, which rises in
+the snowy mountains to the southwest, between Jefferson and Madison
+rivers, and discharges itself by seven mouths, five below, and one three
+miles above this, which is the largest, and about thirty yards wide: we
+called it Philosophy river. The water of it is abundant and perfectly
+clear, and the bed like that of the Jefferson consists of pebble and
+gravel. There is some timber in the bottoms of the river, and vast
+numbers of otter and beaver, which build on its smaller mouths and the
+bayous of its neighbourhood. The Jefferson continues as yesterday,
+shoaly and rapid, but as the islands though numerous are small, it is
+however more collected into one current than it was below, and is from
+ninety to one hundred and twenty yards in width. The low ground has a
+fertile soil of rich black loam, and contains a considerable quantity of
+timber, with the bullrush and cattail flag very abundant in the moist
+parts, while the drier situations are covered with fine grass, tansy,
+thistles, onions, and flax. The uplands are barren, and without timber:
+the soil is a light yellow clay intermixed with small smooth pebble and
+gravel, and the only produce is the prickly-pear, the sedge, and the
+bearded grass, which is as dry and inflammable as tinder. As we
+proceeded the low grounds became narrower, and the timber more scarce,
+till at the distance of ten miles the high hills approach and overhang
+the river on both sides, forming cliffs of a hard black granite, like
+almost all those below the limestone cliffs at the three forks of the
+Missouri: they continue so for a mile and three quarters, where we came
+to a point of rock on the right side, at which place the hills again
+retire, and the valley widens to the distance of a mile and a half.
+Within the next five miles we passed four islands, and reached the foot
+of a mountain in a bend of the river to the left: from this place we
+went a mile and a quarter to the entrance of a small run discharging
+itself on the left, and encamped on an island just above it, after
+making seventeen and three quarter miles. We observe some pine on the
+hills on both sides of our encampment, which are very lofty. The only
+game which we have seen are one bighorn, a few antelopes, deer, and one
+brown bear, which escaped from our pursuit. Nothing was, however, killed
+to-day, nor have we had any fresh meat except one beaver for the last
+two days, so that we are now reduced to an unusual situation, for we
+have hitherto always had a great abundance of flesh.
+
+Thursday, August 1. We left our encampment early, and at the distance of
+a mile, reached a point of rocks on the left side, where the river
+passes though perpendicular cliffs. Two and three quarter miles further
+we halted for breakfast under a cedar tree in a bend to the right: here
+as had been previously arranged, captain Lewis left us, with sergeant
+Gass, Chaboneau, and Drewyer, intending to go on in advance in search of
+the Shoshonees. He began his route along the north side of the river
+over a high range of mountains, as captain Clarke who ascended them on
+the 26th had observed from them a large valley spreading to the north of
+west, and concluded that on leaving the mountain the river took that
+direction; but when he reached that valley, captain Lewis found it to be
+the passage of a large creek falling just above the mountain into the
+Jefferson, which bears to the southwest. On discovering his error, he
+bent his course towards that river, which he reached about two in the
+afternoon, very much exhausted with heat and thirst. The mountains were
+very bare of timber, and the route lay along the steep and narrow
+hollows of the mountain, exposed to the mid-day sun, without air, or
+shade, or water. Just as he arrived there a flock of elk passed, and
+they killed two of them, on which they made their dinner, and left the
+rest on the shore for the party in the canoes. After dinner they resumed
+their march, and encamped on the north side of the river, after making
+seventeen miles; in crossing the mountains captain Lewis saw a flock of
+the black or dark brown pheasant, of which he killed one. This bird is
+one third larger than the common pheasant of the Atlantic States; its
+form is much the same. The male has not however the tufts of long black
+feathers on the side of the neck so conspicuous in the Atlantic
+pheasant, and both sexes are booted nearly to the toes. The colour is a
+uniform dark brown with a small mixture of yellow or yellowish brown
+specks on some of the feathers, particularly those of the tail, though
+the extremities of these are perfectly black for about an inch. The eye
+is nearly black, and the iris has a small dash of yellowish brown; the
+feathers of the tail are somewhat longer than those of our pheasant, but
+the same in number, eighteen, and nearly equal in size, except that
+those of the middle are somewhat the longest; their flesh is white and
+agreeably flavoured.
+
+He also saw among the scattered pine near the top of the mountain, a
+blue bird about the size of a robin, but in action and form something
+like a jay; it is constantly in motion, hopping from spray to spray, and
+its note which is loud and frequent, is, as far as letters can represent
+it, char ah! char ah! char ah!
+
+After breakfast we proceeded on: at the distance of two and a quarter
+miles the river enters a high mountain, which forms rugged cliffs of
+nearly perpendicular rocks. These are of a black granite at the lower
+part, and the upper consists of a light coloured freestone; they
+continue from the point of rocks close to the river for nine miles,
+which we passed before breakfast, during which the current is very
+strong. At nine and a quarter miles we passed an island, and a rapid
+fall with a fall of six feet, and reached the entrance of a large creek
+on the left side. In passing this place the towline of one of the canoes
+broke just at the shoot of the rapids, swung on the rocks and had nearly
+upset. To the creek as well as the rapid we gave the name of Frazier,
+after Robert* Frazier one of the party: here the country opens into a
+beautiful valley from six to eight miles in width: the river then
+becomes crooked and crowded with islands; its lowgrounds wide and
+fertile, but though covered with fine grass from nine inches to two
+feet high; possesses but a small proportion of timber, and that consists
+almost entirely of a few narrow-leafed cottonwood distributed along the
+verge of the river. The soil of the plain is tolerably fertile, and
+consists of a black or dark yellow loam. It gradually ascends on each
+side to the bases of two ranges of high mountains which lie parallel* to
+the river; the tops of them are yet in part covered with snow, and while
+in the valley we are nearly suffocated with heat during the day, and at
+night the air is so cold that two blankets are not more than sufficient
+covering. In passing through the hills we observed some large cedar
+trees, and some juniper also. From Frazier's creek we went three and
+three quarter miles, and encamped on the left side, having come thirteen
+miles. Directly opposite our camp is a large creek which we call Field's
+creek, from Reuben Fields, one of our men. Soon after we halted two of
+the hunters went out and returned with five deer, which, with one
+bighorn, we killed in coming through the mountain on which we dined; and
+the elk left by captain Lewis. We were again well supplied with fresh
+meat. In the course of the day we saw a brown bear but were not able to
+shoot him.
+
+Friday, August 2. Captain Lewis, who slept in the valley a few miles
+above us, resumed his journey early, and after making five miles and
+finding that the river still bore to the south, determined to cross it
+in hopes of shortening the route: for the first time therefore he waded
+across it, although there are probably many places above the falls where
+it might be attempted with equal safety. The river was about ninety
+yards wide, the current rapid, and about waist deep: the bottom formed
+of smooth pebble with a small mixture of coarse gravel. He then
+continued along the left bank of the river till sunset and encamped,
+after travelling twenty-four miles. He met no fresh tracks of Indians.
+Throughout the valley are scattered the bones and excrement of the
+buffaloe* of an old date, but there seems no hope of meeting the animals
+themselves in the mountains: he saw an abundance of deer and antelope,
+and many tracks of elk and bear. Having killed two deer they feasted
+sumptuously, with a desert of currants of different colours; two species
+of red, others yellow, deep purple, and black: to these were added black
+gooseberries and deep purple serviceberries, somewhat larger than ours,
+from which it differs also in colour, size, and the superior excellence
+of its flavour. In the low grounds of the river were many beaver-dams
+formed of willow brush, mud, and gravel, so closely interwoven that they
+resist the water perfectly: some of them were five feet high and
+overflowed several acres of land.
+
+In the meantime we proceeded on slowly, the current being so strong as
+to require the utmost exertions of the men to make any advance even with
+the aid of the cord and pole, the wind being from the northwest. The
+river is full of large and small islands, and the plain cut by great
+numbers of bayous or channels, in which are multitudes of beaver. In the
+course of the day we passed some villages of barking squirrels: we saw
+several rattlesnakes in the plain; young ducks, both of the
+duckon-mallard and red-headed fishing duck species; some geese; also the
+black woodpecker, and a large herd of elk. The channel, current, banks,
+and general appearance of the river, are like that of yesterday. At
+fourteen and three quarter miles we reached a rapid creek or bayou about
+thirty yards wide, to which we gave the name of Birth creek. After
+making seventeen miles we halted in a smooth plain in a bend towards the
+left.
+
+Saturday, 3. Captain Lewis continued his course along the river through
+the valley, which continued much as it was yesterday, except that it now
+widens to nearly twelve miles; the plains too are more broken and have
+some scattered pine near the mountains, where they rise higher than
+hitherto. In the level parts of the plains and the river bottoms there
+is no timber except small cottonwood near the margin, and an undergrowth
+of narrow-leafed willow, small honeysuckle, rosebushes, currants,
+serviceberry, and gooseberry, and a little of a small species of birch;
+it is a finely indented oval of a small size and a deep green colour;
+the stem is simple, ascending and branching, and seldom rises higher
+than ten or twelve feet. The mountains continue high on each side of the
+valley, but their only covering is a small species of pitch-pine with a
+short leaf, growing on the lower and middle regions, while for some
+distance below the snowy tops there is neither timber nor herbage of any
+kind. About eleven o'clock Drewyer killed a doe on which they
+breakfasted, and after resting two hours continued till night, when they
+reached the river near a low ground more extensive than usual. From the
+appearance of the timber captain Lewis supposed that the river forked
+above him, and therefore encamped with an intention of examining it more
+particularly in the morning. He had now made twenty-three miles, the
+latter part of which were for eight miles through a high plain covered
+with prickly pears and bearded grass, which rendered the walking very
+inconvenient: but even this was better than the river bottoms we crossed
+in the evening, which, though apparently level, were formed into deep
+holes as if they had been rooted up by hogs, and the holes were so
+covered with thick grass that they were in danger of falling at every
+step. Some parts of these low grounds, however, contain turf or peat of
+an excellent quality for many feet deep apparently, as well as the
+mineral salts which we have already mentioned on the Missouri. They saw
+many deer, antelopes, ducks, geese, some beaver, and great traces of
+their work, and the small birds and curlews as usual. The only fish
+which they observed in this part of the river is the trout and a species
+of white fish, with a remarkably long small mouth, which one of our men
+recognize as the fish called in the eastern states the bottlenose.
+
+On setting out with the canoes we found the river as usual much crowded
+with islands, the current more rapid as well as shallower, so that in
+many places they were obliged to man the canoes double, and drag them
+over the stone and gravel of the channel. Soon after we set off captain
+Clarke who was walking on shore observed a fresh track which he knew to
+be that of an Indian from the large toes being turned inwards, and on
+following it found that it led to the point of a hill from which our
+camp of last night could be seen. This circumstance strengthened the
+belief that some Indian had strayed thither, and had run off alarmed at
+the sight of us. At two and a quarter miles, is a small creek in a bend
+towards the right, which runs down from the mountains at a little
+distance; we called it Panther creek from an animal of that kind killed
+by Reuben Fields at its mouth. It is precisely the same animal common to
+the western parts of the United States, and measured seven and a half
+feet from the nose to the extremity of the tail. Six and three quarter
+miles beyond this stream is another on the left formed by the drains
+which convey the melted snows from a mountain near it, under which the
+river passes, leaving the low grounds on the right side, and making
+several bends in its course. On this stream are many large beaver dams.
+One mile above it is a small run on the left, and after leaving which
+begins a very bad rapid, where the bed of the river is formed of solid
+rock: this we passed in the course of a mile, and encamped on the lower
+point of an island. Our journey had been only thirteen miles, but the
+badness of the river made it very laborious, as the men were compelled
+to be in the water during the greater part of the day. We saw only deer,
+antelopes, and the common birds of the country.
+
+Saturday 4. This morning captain Lewis proceeded early, and after going
+southeast by east for four miles, reaching a bold running creek, twelve
+yards wide, with clear cold water, furnished apparently by four drains
+from the snowy mountains on the left; after passing this creek he
+changed his direction to southeast, and leaving the valley in which he
+had travelled for the last two days, entered another which bore east. At
+the distance of three miles on this course he passed a handsome little
+river, about thirty yards wide, which winds through the valley: the
+current is not rapid nor the water very clear, but it affords a
+considerable quantity of water, and appears as if it might be navigable
+for some miles. The banks are low, and the bed formed of stone and
+gravel. He now changed his route to southwest, and passing a high plain
+which separates the vallies, returned to the more southern or that which
+he had left: in passing this he found a river about forty-five yards
+wide, the water of which has a whitish blue tinge, with a gentle
+current, and a gravelly bottom. This he waded and found it waist deep.
+He then continued down it, till at the distance of three quarters of a
+mile he saw the entrance of the small river he had just passed; as he
+went on two miles lower down, he found the mouth of the creek he had
+seen in the morning. Proceeding further on three miles, he arrived at
+the junction of this river, with another which rises from the southwest,
+runs through the south valley about twelve miles before it forms its
+junction, where it is fifty yards wide: we now found that our camp of
+last night was about a mile and a half above the entrance of this large
+river, on the right side. This is a bold, rapid, clear stream, but its
+bed is so much obstructed by gravelly bars, and subdivided by islands,
+that the navigation must be very insecure, if not impracticable. The
+other or middle stream, has about two thirds its quantity of water, and
+is more gentle, and may be safely navigated. As far as it could be
+observed, its course was about southwest, but the opening of the valley
+induced him to believe that farther above it turned more towards the
+west. Its water is more turbid and warmer than that of the other branch,
+whence it may be presumed to have its sources at a greater distance in
+the mountains, and to pass through a more open country. Under this
+impression he left a note recommending to captain Clarke the middle
+fork, and then continued his course along the right side of the other,
+or more rapid branch. After travelling twenty-three miles he near a
+place where the river leaves the valley and enters the mountain. Here he
+encamped for the night. The country he passed is like that of the rest
+of this valley, though there is more timber in this part on the rapid
+fork than there has been on the river in the same extent since we
+entered it; for on some parts of the valley the Indians seem to have
+destroyed a great proportion of the little timber there was, by setting
+fire to the bottoms. He saw some antelopes, deer, cranes, geese and
+ducks of the two species common to this country, though the summer duck
+has ceased to appear, nor does it seem to be an inhabitant of this part
+of the river.
+
+We proceeded soon after sunrise: the first five miles we passed four
+bends on the left, and several bayous on both sides. At eight o'clock we
+stopped to breakfast, and found the note captain Lewis had written on
+the 2d instant. During the next four miles, we passed three small bends
+of the river to the right, two small islands, and two bayous on the same
+side. Here we reached a bluff on the left; our next course was six miles
+to our encampment. In this course we met six circular bends on the
+right, and several small bayous, and halted for the night in a low
+ground of cottonwood on the right. Our days journey, though only fifteen
+miles in length, was very fatiguing. The river is still rapid and the
+water though clear is very much obstructed by shoals or ripples at every
+two or three hundred yards: at all these places we are obliged to drag
+the canoes over the stones as there is not a sufficient depth of water
+to float them, and in the other parts the current obliges us to have
+recourse to the cord. But as the brushwood on the banks will not permit
+us to walk on shore, we are under the necessity of wading through the
+river as we drag the boats. This soon makes our feet tender, and
+sometimes occasions severe falls over the slippery stones; and the men
+by being constantly wet are becoming more feeble. In the course of the
+day the hunters killed two deer, some geese and ducks, and the party
+saw antelopes, cranes, beaver and otter.
+
+Monday 5. This morning Chaboneau complained of being unable to march far
+to-day, and captain Lewis therefore ordered him and serjeant Gass to
+pass the rapid river and proceed through the level low ground, to a
+point of high timber on the middle fork, seven miles distant, and wait
+his return. He then went along the north side of the rapid river about
+four miles, where he waded it, and found it so rapid and shallow that it
+would be impossible to navigate it. He continued along the left side for
+a mile and a half, when the mountains came close on the river, and rise
+to a considerable height with a partial covering of snow. From this
+place the course of the river was to the east of north. After ascending
+with some difficulty a high point of the mountain, he had a pleasing
+view of the valley he had passed, and which continued for about twenty
+miles further on each side of the middle fork, which then seemed to
+enter the mountains, and was lost to the view. In that direction,
+however, the hills which terminate the valley are much lower than those
+along either of the other forks, particularly the rapid one, where they
+continue rising in ranges above each other us far as the eye could
+reach. The general course too of the middle fork, as well as that of the
+gap which it forms on entering the mountains, is considerably to the
+south of west; circumstances which gave a decided preference to this
+branch as our future route. Captain Lewis now descended the mountain,
+and crossed over to the middle fork, about five miles distant, and found
+it still perfectly navigable. There is a very large and plain Indian
+road leading up it, but it has at present no tracks, except those of
+horses which seem to have used it last spring. The river here made a
+great bend to the southeast, and he therefore directed his course, as
+well as he could, to the spot where he had directed Chaboneau and Gass
+to repair, and struck the river about three miles above their camp. It
+was now dark, and he, therefore, was obliged to make his way through the
+thick brush of the pulpy-leafed thorn and the prickly pear, for two
+hours before he reached their camp. Here he was fortunate enough to find
+the remains of some meat, which was his only food during the march of
+twenty-five miles to-day. He had seen no game of any sort except a few
+antelopes who were very shy. The soil of the plains is a meagre clay, of
+a light yellow colour, intermixed with a large proportion of gravel, and
+producing nothing but twisted or bearded grass, sedge and prickly pears.
+The drier parts of the low grounds are also more indifferent in point of
+soil than those further down the river, and although they have but
+little grass, are covered with southern wood, pulpy-leafed thorn, and
+prickly pears, while the moist parts are fertile, and supplied with fine
+grass and sandrushes.
+
+We passed within the first four and a quarter miles three small islands,
+and the same number of bad rapids. At the distance of three quarters of
+a mile is another rapid of difficult passage: three miles and three
+quarters beyond this are the forks of the river, in reaching which we
+had two islands and several bayous on different sides to pass. Here we
+had come nine miles and a quarter. The river was straighter and more
+rapid than yesterday, the labour of the navigation proportionally
+increased, and we therefore proceeded very slowly, as the feet of
+several of the men were swollen, and all were languid with fatigue. We
+arrived at the forks about four o'clock, but unluckily captain Lewis's
+note had been left on a green pole which the beaver had cut down and
+carried off with the note, an accident which deprived us of all
+information as to the character of the two branches of the river.
+Observing therefore that the northwest fork was most in our direction,
+and contained as much water as the other, we ascended it; we found it
+extremely rapid, and its waters were scattered in such a manner, that
+for a quarter of a mile we were forced to cut a passage through the
+willowbrush that leaned over the little channels and united at the top.
+After going up it for a mile we encamped on an island which had been
+overflowed, and was still so wet that we were compelled to make beds of
+brush to keep ourselves out of the mud. Our provision consisted of two
+deer which had been killed in the morning.
+
+Tuesday 6. We proceeded up the northwest fork, which we found still very
+rapid, and divided by several islands, while the plains near it were
+intersected by bayous. After passing with much difficulty over stones
+and rapids, we reached a bluff on the right, at the distance of nine
+miles, our general course south 30° west, and halted for breakfast. Here
+we were joined by Drewyer, who informed us of the state of the two
+rivers and of captain Lewis's note, and we immediately began to descend
+the river in order to take the other branch. On going down one of the
+canoes upset, and two others filled with water, by which all the baggage
+was wet, and several articles irrecoverably lost. As one of them swung
+round in a rapid current, Whitehouse was thrown out of her, and whilst
+down the canoe passed over him, and had the water been two inches
+shallower would have crushed him to pieces; but he escaped with a severe
+bruise of his leg. In order to repair these misfortunes we hastened to
+the forks, where we were joined by captain Lewis, and then passed over
+to the left side opposite to the entrance of the rapid fork, and
+encamped on a large gravelly bar, near which there was plenty of wood.
+Here we opened and exposed to dry all the articles which had suffered
+from the water; none of them were completely spoiled except a small keg
+of powder; the rest of the powder, which was distributed in the
+different canoes was quite safe, although it had been under the water
+upwards of an hour. The air is indeed so pure and dry that any wood-work
+immediately shrinks, unless it is kept filled with water; but we had
+planned our powder in small canisters of lead, each containing powder
+enough for the canister when melted into bullets, and smeared with cork
+and wax, which answered our purpose perfectly.
+
+Captain Lewis had risen very early, and having nothing to eat, sent out
+Drewyer to the woodland on the left in search of a deer, and directed
+sergeant Gass to keep along the middle branch to meet us if we were
+ascending it. He then set off with Chaboneau towards the forks, but five
+miles above them, hearing us on the left, struck the river as we were
+descending, and came on board at the forks.
+
+In the evening we killed three deer and four elk, which furnished us
+once more with a plentiful supply of meat. Shannon, the same man who was
+lost before for fifteen days, was sent out this morning to hunt, up the
+northwest fork; when we decided on returning, Drewyer was directed to go
+in quest of him, but he returned with information that he had gone
+several miles up the river without being able to find Shannon. We now
+had the trumpet sounded, and fired several guns, but he did not return,
+and we fear he is again lost.
+
+Wednesday 7. We remained here this morning for the purpose of making
+some celestial observations, and also in order to refresh the men, and
+complete the drying of the baggage. We obtained a meridian altitude
+which gave the latitude of our camp at north 45° 2' 48" 8"'. We were now
+completely satisfied that the middle branch was the most navigable, and
+the true continuation of the Jefferson. The northwest fork seems to be
+the drain of the melting snows of the mountains, its course cannot be so
+long as the other branch, and although it contains now as great a
+quantity of water, yet the water has obviously overflowed the old bed,
+and spread into channels which leave the low grounds covered with young
+grass, resembling that of the adjoining lands, which are not inundated;
+whence we readily infer that the supply is more precarious than that of
+the other branch, the waters of which though more gentle are more
+constant. This northwest fork we called Wisdom river.
+
+As soon as the baggage was dried, it was reloaded on board the boats,
+but we now found it so much diminished, that we would we able to proceed
+with one canoe less. We therefore hauled up the superfluous one into a
+thicket of brush where we secured her against being swept away by the
+high tide. At one o'clock all set out, except captain Lewis who remained
+till the evening in order to complete the observation of equal
+altitudes: we passed several bends of the river both to the right and
+left, as well as a number of bayous on both sides, and made seven miles
+by water, though the distance by land is only three. We then encamped on
+a creek which rises in a high mountain to the northeast, and after
+passing through an open plain for several miles, discharges itself on
+the left, where it is a bold running stream twelve yards wide. We called
+it Turf creek, from the number of bogs and the quantity of turf on its
+waters. In the course of the afternoon there fell a shower of rain
+attended with thunder and lightning, which lasted about forty minutes,
+and the weather remained so cloudy all night that we were unable to take
+any lunar observations. Uneasy about Shannon, we sent R. Fields in
+search of him this morning, but we have as yet no intelligence of either
+of them. Our only game to-day was one deer.
+
+Thursday 8. There was a heavy dew this morning. Having left one of the
+canoes, there are now more men to spare for the chace; and four were
+sent out at an early hour, after which we proceeded. We made five miles
+by water along two islands and several bayous, but as the river formed
+seven different bends towards the left, the distance by land was only
+two miles south of our encampment. At the end of that course we reached
+the upper principal entrance of a stream which we called Philanthropy
+river. This river empties itself into the Jefferson on the southeast
+side, by two channels a short distance from each other: from its size
+and its southeastern course, we presume that it rises in the Rocky
+mountains near the sources of the Madison. It is thirty yards wide at
+its entrance, has a very gentle current, and is navigable for some
+distance. One mile above this river we passed an island, a second at the
+distance of six miles further, during which the river makes a
+considerable bend to the east. Reuben Fields returned about noon with
+information that he had gone up Wisdom river till its entrance into the
+mountains, but could find nothing of Shannon. We made seven miles beyond
+the last island, and after passing some small bayous, encamped under a
+few high trees on the left, at the distance of fourteen miles above
+Philanthropy river by water, though only six by land. The river has in
+fact become so very crooked that although by means of the pole which we
+now use constantly we make a considerable distance, yet being obliged to
+follow its windings, at the end of the day, we find ourselves very
+little advanced on our general course. It forms itself into small
+circular bends, which are so numerous that within the last fourteen
+miles we passed thirty-five of them, all inclining towards the right; it
+is however much more gentle and deep than below Wisdom river, and its
+general width is from thirty-five to forty-five yards. The general
+appearance of the surrounding country is that of a valley five or six
+miles wide, enclosed between two high mountains. The bottom is rich,
+with some small timber on the islands and along the river, which
+consists rather of underbrush, and a few cottonwood, birch, and
+willow-trees. The high grounds have some scattered pine, which just
+relieve the general nakedness of the hills and the plain, where there is
+nothing except grass. Along the bottoms we saw to-day a considerable
+quantity of the buffaloe clover, the sunflower, flax, green sward,
+thistle and several species of rye grass, some of which rise to the
+height of three or four feet. There is also a grass with a soft smooth
+leaf which rises about three feet high, and bears its seed very much
+like the timothy, but it does not grow luxuriantly nor would it
+apparently answer so well in our meadows as that plant. We preserved
+some of its seed, which are now ripe, in order to make the experiment.
+Our game consisted of deer and antelope, and we saw a number of geese
+and ducks just beginning to fly, and some cranes. Among the inferior
+animals we have an abundance of the large biting or hare fly, of which
+there are two species, one black, the other smaller and brown, except
+the head which is green. The green or blowing flies unite with them in
+swarms to attack us, and seem to have relieved the eye-gnats who have
+now disappeared. The musquitoes too are in large quantities, but not so
+troublesome as they were below. Through the valley are scattered bogs,
+and some very good turf, the earth of which the mud is composed is of a
+white or bluish white colour, and seems to be argilaceous. On all the
+three rivers, but particularly on the Philanthropy, are immense
+quantities of beaver, otter and muskrat. At our camp there was an
+abundance of rosebushes and briars, but so little timber that we were
+obliged to use willow brush for fuel. The night was again cloudy which
+prevented the lunar observations.
+
+On our right is the point of a high plain, which our Indian woman
+recognizes as the place called the Beaver's-head from a supposed
+resemblance to that object. This she says is not far from the summer
+retreat of her countrymen, which is on a river beyond the mountains, and
+running to the west. She is therefore certain that we shall meet them
+either on this river, or on that immediately west of its source, which
+judging from its present size, cannot be far distant. Persuaded of the
+absolute necessity of procuring horses to cross the mountains, it was
+determined that one of us should proceed in the morning to the head of
+the river, and penetrate the mountains till he found the Shoshonees or
+some other nation who could assist us in transporting our baggage, the
+greater part of which we shall be compelled to leave without the aid of
+horses.
+
+Friday 9. The morning was fair and fine. We set off early, and proceeded
+on very well, though there were more rapids in the river than
+yesterday. At eight o'clock we halted for breakfast, part of which
+consisted of two fine geese killed before we stopped. Here we were
+joined by Shannon for whose safety we had been so uneasy. The day on
+which he left us on his way up Wisdom river, after hunting for some time
+and not seeing the party arrive, he returned to the place where he had
+left us. Not finding us there he supposed we had passed him, and he
+therefore marched up the river during all the next day, when he was
+convinced that we had not gone on, as the river was no longer navigable.
+He now followed the course of the river down to the forks, and then took
+the branch which we are pursuing. During the three days of his absence,
+he had been much wearied with his march, but had lived plentifully, and
+brought the skins of three deer. As far as he had ascended Wisdom river
+it kept its course obliquely down towards the Jefferson. Immediately
+after breakfast, captain Lewis took Drewyer, Shields and M'Neal, and
+slinging their knapsacks they set out with a resolution to meet some
+nation of Indians before they returned, however long they might be
+separated from the party. He directed his course across the low ground
+to the plain on the right, leaving the Beaver's-head about two miles to
+the left. After walking eight miles to the river, which they waded, they
+went on to a commanding point from which he saw the place at which it
+enters the mountain, but as the distance would not permit his reaching
+it this evening, he descended towards the river, and after travelling
+eight miles further, encamped for the evening some miles below the
+mountain. They passed before reaching their camp a handsome little
+stream formed by some large springs which rise in the wide bottom on the
+left side of the river. In their way they killed two antelopes, and took
+with them enough of the meat for their supper and breakfast the next
+morning.
+
+In the meantime we proceeded, and in the course of eleven miles from
+our last encampment passed two small islands, sixteen short round bends
+in the river, and halted in a bend towards the right where we dined. The
+river increases in rapidity as we advance, and is so crooked that the
+eleven miles, which have cost us so much labour, only bring us four
+miles in a direct line. The weather became overcast towards evening, and
+we experienced a slight shower attended with thunder and lightning. The
+three hunters who were sent out killed only two antelopes; game of every
+kind being scarce.
+
+Saturday, 10. Captain Lewis continued his route at an early hour through
+the wide bottom along the left bank of the river. At about five miles he
+passed a large creek, and then fell into an Indian road leading towards
+the point where the river entered the mountain. This he followed till he
+reached a high perpendicular cliff of rocks where the river makes its
+passage through the hills, and which he called the Rattlesnake cliff,
+from the number of that animal which he saw there: here he kindled a
+fire and waited the return of Drewyer, who had been sent out on the way
+to kill a deer: he came back about noon with the skin of three deer and
+the flesh of one of the best of them. After a hasty dinner they returned
+to the Indian road which they had left for a short distance to see the
+cliff. It led them sometimes over the hills, sometimes in the narrow
+bottoms of the river, till at the distance of fifteen miles from the
+Rattlesnake cliffs they reached a handsome open and level valley, where
+the river divided into two nearly equal branches. The mountains over
+which they passed were not very high, but are rugged and continue close
+to the river side. The river, which before it enters the mountain was
+rapid, rocky, very crooked, much divided by islands, and shallow, now
+becomes more direct in its course as it is hemmed in by the hills, and
+has not so many bends nor islands, but becomes more rapid and rocky,
+and continues as shallow. On examining the two branches of the river it
+was evident that neither of them was navigable further. The road forked
+with the river; and captain Lewis therefore sent a man up each of them
+for a short distance, in order that by comparing their respective
+information he might be able to take that which seemed to have been most
+used this spring. From their account he resolved to choose that which
+led along the southwest branch of the river which was rather the smaller
+of the two: he accordingly wrote a note to captain Clarke informing him
+of the route, and recommending his staying with the party at the forks
+till he should return: This he fixed on a dry willow pole at the forks
+of the river, and then proceeded up the southwest branch; but after
+going a mile and a half the road became scarcely distinguishable, and
+the tracks of the horses which he had followed along the Jefferson were
+no longer seen. Captain Lewis therefore returned to examine the other
+road himself, and found that the horses had in fact passed along the
+western or right fork which had the additional recommendation of being
+larger than the other.
+
+This road he concluded to take, and therefore sent back Drewyer to the
+forks with a second letter to captain Clarke apprising him of the
+change, and then proceeded on. The valley of the west fork through which
+he now passed, bears a little to the north of west, and is confined
+within the space of about a mile in width, by rough mountains and steep
+cliffs of rock. At the distance of four and a half miles it opens into a
+beautiful and extensive plain about ten miles long and five or six in
+width: this is surrounded on all sides by higher rolling or waving
+country, intersected by several little rivulets from the mountains, each
+bordered by its wide meadows. The whole prospect is bounded by these
+mountains, which nearly surround it, so as to form a beautiful cove
+about sixteen or eighteen miles in diameter. On entering this cove the
+river bends to the northwest, and bathes the foot of the hills to the
+right. At this place they halted for the night on the right side of the
+river, and having lighted a fire of dry willow brush, the only fuel
+which the country affords, supped on a deer. They had travelled to-day
+thirty miles by estimate: that is ten to the Rattlesnake cliff, fifteen
+to the forks of Jefferson river, and five to their encampment. In this
+cove some parts of the low grounds are tolerably fertile, but much the
+greater proportion is covered with prickly pear, sedge, twisted grass,
+the pulpy-leafed thorn, southern-wood, and wild sage, and like the
+uplands have a very inferior soil. These last have little more than the
+prickly pear and the twisted or bearded grass, nor are there in the
+whole cove more than three or four cottonwood trees, and those are
+small. At the apparent extremity of the bottom above, and about ten
+miles to the westward, are two perpendicular cliffs rising to a
+considerable height on each side of the river, and at this distance seem
+like a gate. In the meantime we proceeded at sunrise, and found the
+river not so rapid as yesterday, though more narrow and still very
+crooked, and so shallow that we were obliged to drag the canoes over
+many ripples in the course of the day. At six and a half miles we had
+passed eight bends on the north, and two small bayous on the left, and
+came to what the Indians call the Beaver's-head, a steep rocky cliff
+about one hundred and fifty feet high, near the right side of the river.
+Opposite to this at three hundred yards from the water is a low cliff
+about fifty feet in height, which forms the extremity of a spur of the
+mountain about four miles distant on the left. At four o'clock we were
+overtaken by a heavy shower of rain, attended with thunder, lightning
+and hail. The party were defended from the hail by covering themselves
+with willow bushes, but they got completely wet, and in this situation,
+as soon as the rain ceased, continued till we encamped. This we did at a
+low bluff on the left, after passing in the course of six and a half
+miles, four islands and eighteen bends on the right, and a low bluff
+and several bayous on the same side. We had now come thirteen miles, yet
+were only four on our route towards the mountains. The game seems to be
+declining, for our hunters procured only a single deer, though we found
+another for us that had been killed three days before by one of the
+hunters during an excursion, and left for us on the river.
+
+
+
+
+                               CHAPTER XIV.
+
+     Captain Lewis proceeds before the main body in search of the
+     Shoshonees--his ill success on the first interview--the party with
+     captain Lewis at length discover the source of the
+     Missouri--captain Clarke with the main body still employed in
+     ascending the Missouri or Jefferson river--captain Lewis's second
+     interview with the Shoshonees attended with success--the
+     interesting ceremonies of his first introduction to the natives,
+     detailed at large--their hospitality--their mode of hunting the
+     antelope--the difficulties encountered by captain Clarke and the
+     main body in ascending the river--the suspicions entertained of
+     captain Lewis by the Shoshonees, and his mode of allaying them--the
+     ravenous appetites of the savages illustrated by a singular
+     adventure--the Indians still jealous, and the great pains taken by
+     captain Lewis to preserve their confidence--captain Clarke arrives
+     with the main body exhausted by the difficulties which they
+     underwent.
+
+
+Sunday, August 11. Captain Lewis again proceeded on early, but had the
+mortification to find that the track which he followed yesterday soon
+disappeared. He determined therefore to go on to the narrow gate or pass
+of the river which he had seen from the camp, in hopes of being able to
+recover the Indian path. For this purpose he waded across the river,
+which was now about twelve yards wide, and barred in several places by
+the dams of the beaver, and then went straight forward to the pass,
+sending one man along the river to his left, and another on the right,
+with orders to search for the road, and if they found it to let him know
+by raising a hat on the muzzle of their guns. In this order they went
+along for about five miles, when captain Lewis perceived with the
+greatest delight a man on horseback at the distance of two miles coming
+down the plain towards them. On examining him with the glass, captain
+Lewis saw that he was of a different nation from any Indians we had
+hitherto met: he was armed with a bow and a quiver of arrows; mounted
+on an elegant horse without a saddle, and a small string attached to the
+under jaw answered as a bridle. Convinced that he was a Shoshonee, and
+knowing how much of our success depended on the friendly offices of that
+nation, captain Lewis was full of anxiety to approach without alarming
+him, and endeavour to convince him that he was a white man. He
+therefore, proceeded on towards the Indian at his usual pace, when they
+were within a mile of each other the Indian suddenly stopt, captain
+Lewis immediately followed his example, took his blanket from his
+knapsack, and holding it with both hands at the two corners, threw it
+above his head and unfolded it as he brought it to the ground as if in
+the act of spreading it. This signal which originates in the practice of
+spreading a robe or a skin, as a seat for guests to whom they wish to
+show a distinguished kindness, is the universal sign of friendship among
+the Indians on the Missouri and the Rocky mountains. As usual, captain
+Lewis repeated this signal three times: still the Indian kept his
+position, and looked with an air of suspicion on Drewyer and Shields who
+were now advancing on each side. Captain Lewis was afraid to make any
+signal for them to halt, lest he should increase the suspicions of the
+Indian, who began to be uneasy, and they too distant to hear his voice.
+He, therefore, took from his pack some beads, a looking-glass and a few
+trinkets, which he had brought for the purpose, and leaving his gun
+advanced unarmed towards the Indian. He remained in the same position
+till captain Lewis came within two hundred yards of him, when he turned
+his horse, and began to move off slowly; captain Lewis then called out
+to him, in as loud a voice as he could, repeating the word, tabba bone!
+which in the Shoshonee language means white man; but looking over his
+shoulder the Indian kept his eyes on Drewyer and Shields, who were still
+advancing, without recollecting the impropriety of doing so at such a
+moment, till captain Lewis made a signal to them to halt; this Drewyer
+obeyed, but Shields did not observe it, and still went forward: seeing
+Drewyer halt the Indian turned his horse about as if to wait for captain
+Lewis who now reached within one hundred and fifty paces, repeating the
+word tabba bone, and holding up the trinkets in his hand, at the same
+time stripping up the sleeve of his shirt to show the colour of his
+skin. The Indian suffered him to advance within one hundred paces, then
+suddenly turned his horse, and giving him the whip, leaped across the
+creek, and disappeared in an instant among the willow bushes: with him
+vanished all the hopes which the sight of him had inspired of a friendly
+introduction to his countrymen. Though sadly disappointed by the
+imprudence of his two men, captain Lewis determined to make the incident
+of some use, and therefore calling the men to him they all set off after
+the track of the horse, which they hoped might lead them to the camp of
+the Indian who had fled, or if he had given the alarm to any small
+party, their track might conduct them to the body of the nation. They
+now fixed a small flag of the United States on a pole, which was carried
+by one of the men as a signal of their friendly intentions, should the
+Indians observe them as they were advancing. The route lay across an
+island formed by a nearly equal division of the creek in the bottom:
+after reaching the open grounds on the right side of the creek, the
+track turned towards some high hills about three miles distant.
+Presuming that the Indian camp might be among these hills, and that by
+advancing hastily he might be seen and alarm them, captain Lewis sought
+an elevated situation near the creek, had a fire made of willow brush,
+and took breakfast. At the same time he prepared a small assortment of
+beads, trinkets, awls, some paint and a looking glass, and placed them
+on a pole near the fire, in order that if the Indians returned they
+might discover that the party were white men and friends. Whilst making
+these preparations a very heavy shower of rain and hail came on, and
+wet them to the skin: in about twenty minutes it was over, and captain
+Lewis then renewed his pursuit, but as the rain had made the grass which
+the horse had trodden down rise again, his track could with difficulty
+be distinguished. As they went along they passed several places where
+the Indians seemed to have been digging roots to-day, and saw the fresh
+track of eight or ten horses, but they had been wandering about in so
+confused a manner that he could not discern any particular path, and at
+last, after pursuing it about four miles along the valley to the left
+under the foot of the hills, he lost the track of the fugitive Indian.
+Near the head of the valley they had passed a large bog covered with
+moss and tall grass, among which were several springs of pure cold
+water: they now turned a little to the left along the foot of the high
+hills, and reached a small creek where they encamped for the night,
+having made about twenty miles, though not more than ten in a direct
+line from their camp of last evening.
+
+The morning being rainy and wet we did not set out with the canoes till
+after an early breakfast. During the first three miles we passed three
+small islands, six bayous on different sides of the river, and the same
+number of bends towards the right. Here we reached the lower point of a
+large island which we called Three-thousand-mile island, on account of
+its being at that distance from the mouth of the Missouri. It is three
+miles and a half in length, and as we coasted along it we passed several
+small bends of the river towards the left, and two bayous on the same
+side. After leaving the upper point of Three-thousand-mile island, we
+followed the main channel on the left side, which led us by three small
+islands and several small bayous, and fifteen bends towards the right.
+Then at the distance of seven miles and a half we encamped on the upper
+end of a large island near the right. The river was shallow and rapid,
+so that we were obliged to be in the water during a great part of the
+day, dragging the canoes over the shoals and ripples. Its course too was
+so crooked, that notwithstanding we had made fourteen miles by water, we
+were only five miles from our encampment of last night. The country
+consists of a low ground on the river about five miles wide, and
+succeeded on both sides by plains of the same extent which reach to the
+base of the mountains. These low grounds are very much intersected by
+bayous, and in those on the left side is a large proportion of bog
+covered with tall grass, which would yield a fine turf. There are very
+few trees, and those small narrow-leafed cottonwood: the principal
+growth being the narrow-leafed willow, and currant bushes, among which
+were some bunches of privy near the river. We saw a number of geese,
+ducks, beaver, otter, deer and antelopes, of all which one beaver was
+killed with a pole from the boat, three otters with a tomahawk, and the
+hunters brought in three deer and an antelope.
+
+Monday, 12. This morning as soon as it was light captain Lewis sent
+Drewyer to reconnoitre if possible the route of the Indians: in about an
+hour and a half he returned, after following the tracks of the horse
+which we had lost yesterday to the mountains, where they ascended and
+were no longer visible. Captain Lewis now decided on making the circuit
+along the foot of the mountains which formed the cove, expecting by that
+means to find a road across them, and accordingly sent Drewyer on one
+side, and Shields on the other. In this way they crossed four small
+rivulets near each other, on which were some bowers or conical lodges of
+willow brush, which seemed to have been made recently. From the manner
+in which the ground in the neighbourhood was torn up the Indians
+appeared to have been gathering roots; but captain Lewis could not
+discover what particular plant they were searching for, nor could he
+find any fresh track, till at the distance of four miles from his camp
+he met a large plain Indian road which came into the cove from the
+northeast, and wound along the foot of the mountains to the southwest,
+approaching obliquely the main stream he had left yesterday. Down this
+road he now went towards the southwest: at the distance of five miles it
+crossed a large run or creek, which is a principal branch of the main
+stream into which it falls, just above the high cliffs or gates observed
+yesterday, and which they now saw below them: here they halted and
+breakfasted on the last of the deer, keeping a small piece of pork in
+reserve against accident: they then continued through the low bottom
+along the main stream near the foot of the mountains on their right. For
+the first five miles the valley continues towards the southwest from two
+to three miles in width; then the main stream, which had received two
+small branches from the left in the valley, turns abruptly to the west
+through a narrow bottom between the mountains. The road was still plain,
+and as it led them directly on towards the mountain the stream gradually
+became smaller, till after going two miles it had so greatly diminished
+in width that one of the men in a fit of enthusiasm, with one foot on
+each side of the river, thanked God that he had lived to bestride the
+Missouri. As they went along their hopes of soon seeing the waters of
+the Columbia arose almost to painful anxiety, when after four miles from
+the last abrupt turn of the river, they reached a small gap formed by
+the high mountains which recede on each side, leaving room for the
+Indian road. From the foot of one of the lowest of these mountains,
+which rises with a gentle ascent of about half a mile, issues the
+remotest water of the Missouri. They had now reached the hidden sources
+of that river, which had never yet been seen by civilized man; and as
+they quenched their thirst at the chaste and icy fountain--as they sat
+down by the brink of that little rivulet, which yielded its distant and
+modest tribute to the parent ocean, they felt themselves rewarded for
+all their labours and all their difficulties. They left reluctantly
+this interesting spot, and pursuing the Indian road through the interval
+of the hills, arrived at the top of a ridge, from which they saw high
+mountains partially covered with snow still to the west of them. The
+ridge on which they stood formed the dividing line between the waters of
+the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. They followed a descent much steeper
+than that on the eastern side, and at the distance of three quarters of
+a mile reached a handsome bold creek of cold clear water running to the
+westward. They stopped to taste for the first time the waters of the
+Columbia; and after a few minutes followed the road across steep hills
+and low hollows, till they reached a spring on the side of a mountain:
+here they found a sufficient quantity of dry willow brush for fuel, and
+therefore halted for the night; and having killed nothing in the course
+of the day supped on their last piece of pork, and trusted to fortune
+for some other food to mix with a little flour and parched meal, which
+was all that now remained of their provisions. Before reaching the
+fountain of the Missouri they saw several large hawks nearly black, and
+some of the heath cocks: these last have a long pointed tail, and are of
+a uniform dark brown colour, much larger than the common dunghill fowl,
+and similar in habits and the mode of flying to the grouse or prairie
+hen. Drewyer also wounded at the distance of one hundred and thirty
+yards an animal which we had not yet seen, but which after falling
+recovered itself and escaped. It seemed to be of the fox kind, rather
+larger than the small wolf of the plains, and with a skin in which
+black, reddish brown, and yellow, were curiously intermixed. On the
+creek of the Columbia they found a species of currant which does not
+grow as high as that of the Missouri, though it is more branching, and
+its leaf, the under disk of which is covered with a hairy pubescence, is
+twice as large. The fruit is of the ordinary size and shape of the
+currant, and supported in the usual manner, but is of a deep purple
+colour, acid, and of a very inferior flavour.
+
+We proceeded on in the boats, but as the river was very shallow and
+rapid, the navigation is extremely difficult, and the men who are almost
+constantly in the water are getting feeble and sore, and so much wore
+down by fatigue that they are very anxious to commence travelling by
+land. We went along the main channel which is on the right side, and
+after passing nine bends in that direction, three islands and a number
+of bayous, reached at the distance of five and a half miles the upper
+point of a large island. At noon there was a storm of thunder which
+continued about half an hour; after which we proceeded, but as it was
+necessary to drag the canoes over the shoals and rapids, made but little
+progress. On leaving the island we passed a number of short bends,
+several bayous, and one run of water on the right side, and having gone
+by four small and two large islands, encamped on a smooth plain to the
+left near a few cottonwood trees: our journey by water was just twelve
+miles, and four in a direct line. The hunters supplied us with three
+deer and a fawn.
+
+Tuesday 13. Very early in the morning captain Lewis resumed the Indian
+road, which led him in a western direction, through an open broken
+country; on the left was a deep valley at the foot of a high range of
+mountains running from southeast to northwest, with their sides better
+clad with timber than the hills to which we have been for some time
+accustomed, and their tops covered in part with snow. At five miles
+distance, after following the long descent of another valley, he reached
+a creek about ten yards wide, and on rising the hill beyond it had a
+view of a handsome little valley on the left, about a mile in width,
+through which they judged, from the appearance of the timber, that some
+stream of water most probably passed. On the creek they had just left
+were some bushes of the white maple, the sumach of the small species
+with the winged rib, and a species of honeysuckle, resembling in its
+general appearance and the shape of its leaf the small honeysuckle of
+the Missouri, except that it is rather larger, and bears a globular
+berry, about the size of a garden pea, of a white colour, and formed of
+a soft white mucilaginous substance, in which are several small brown
+seeds irregularly scattered without any cell, and enveloped in a smooth
+thin pellicle.
+
+They proceeded along a waving plain parallel to this valley for about
+four miles, when they discovered two women, a man and some dogs on an
+eminence at the distance of a mile before them. The strangers first
+viewed them apparently with much attention for a few minutes, and then
+two of them sat down as if to await captain Lewis's arrival. He went on
+till he reached within about half a mile, then ordered his party to
+stop, put down his knapsack and rifle, and unfurling the flag advanced
+alone towards the Indians. The females soon retreated behind the hill,
+but the man remained till captain Lewis came within a hundred yards from
+him, when he too went off, though captain Lewis called out tabba bone!
+loud enough to be heard distinctly. He hastened to the top of the hill,
+but they had all disappeared. The dogs however were less shy, and came
+close to him; he therefore thought of tying a handkerchief with some
+beads round their necks, and then let them loose to convince the
+fugitives of his friendly disposition, but they would not suffer him to
+take hold of them, and soon left him. He now made a signal to the men,
+who joined him, and then all followed the track of the Indians, which
+led along a continuation of the same road they had been already
+travelling. It was dusty and seemed to have been much used lately both
+by foot passengers and horsemen. They had not gone along it more than a
+mile when on a sudden they saw three female Indians, from whom they had
+been concealed by the deep ravines which intersected the road, till they
+were now within thirty paces of each other; one of them a young woman
+immediately took to flight, the other two, an elderly woman and a
+little girl, seeing we were too near for them to escape, sat on the
+ground, and holding down their heads seemed as if reconciled to the
+death which they supposed awaited them. The same habit of holding down
+the head and inviting the enemy to strike, when all chance of escape is
+gone, is preserved in Egypt to this day. Captain Lewis instantly put
+down his rifle, and advancing towards them, took the woman by the hand,
+raised her up, and repeated the word tabba bone! at the sane time
+stripping up his shirt sleeve to prove that he was a white man, for his
+hands and face had become by constant exposure quite as dark as their
+own. She appeared immediately relieved from her alarm, and Drewyer and
+Shields now coming up, captain Lewis gave them some beads, a few awls,
+pewter mirrors, and a little paint, and told Drewyer to request the
+woman to recall her companion who had escaped to some distance, and by
+alarming the Indians might cause them to attack him without any time for
+explanation. She did as she was desired, and the young woman returned
+almost out of breath: captain Lewis gave her an equal portion of
+trinkets, and painted the tawny cheeks of all three of them with
+vermillion, a ceremony which among the Shoshonees is emblematic of
+peace. After they had become composed, he informed them by signs of his
+wish to go to their camp in order to see their chiefs and warriors; they
+readily obeyed, and conducted the party along the same road down the
+river. In this way they marched two miles, when they met a troop of
+nearly sixty warriors mounted on excellent horses riding at full speed
+towards them. As they advanced captain Lewis put down his gun, and went
+with the flag about fifty paces in advance. The chief who with two men
+were riding in front of the main body, spoke to the women, who now
+explained that the party was composed of white men, and showed
+exultingly the presents they had received. The three men immediately
+leaped from their horses, came up to Captain Lewis and embraced him with
+great cordiality, putting their left arm over his right shoulder and
+clasping his back, applying at the same time their left cheek to his,
+and frequently vociferating ah hi e! ah hi e! "I am much pleased, I am
+much rejoiced." The whole body of warriors now came forward, and our men
+received the caresses, and no small share of the grease and paint of
+their new friends. After this fraternal embrace, of which the motive was
+much more agreeable than the manner, captain Lewis lighted a pipe and
+offered it to the Indians who had now seated themselves in a circle
+around the party. But before they would receive this mark of friendship
+they pulled off their moccasins, a custom as we afterwards learnt, which
+indicates the sacred sincerity of their professions when they smoke with
+a stranger, and which imprecates on themselves the misery of going
+barefoot forever if they are faithless to their words, a penalty by no
+means light to those who rove over the thorny plains of their country.
+It is not unworthy to remark the analogy which some of the customs of
+those wild children of the wilderness bear to those recorded in holy
+writ. Moses is admonished to pull off his shoes, for the place on which
+he stood was holy ground. Why this was enjoined as an act of peculiar
+reverence; whether it was from the circumstance that in the arid region
+in which the patriarch then resided, it was deemed a test of the
+sincerity of devotion to walk upon the burning sands barefooted, in some
+measure analogous to the pains inflicted by the prickly pear, does not
+appear. After smoking a few pipes, some trifling presents were
+distributed amongst them, with which they seemed very much pleased,
+particularly with the blue beads and the vermillion. Captain Lewis then
+informed the chief that the object of his visit was friendly, and should
+be explained as soon as he reached their camp; but that in the meantime
+as the sun was oppressive, and no water near, he wished to go there as
+soon as possible. They now put on their moccasins, and their chief,
+whose name was Cameahwait, made a short speech to the warriors. Captain
+Lewis then gave him the flag, which he informed him was among white men
+the emblem of peace, and now that he had received it was to be in future
+the bond of union between them. The chief then moved on, our party
+followed him, and the rest of the warriors in a squadron, brought up the
+rear. After marching a mile they were halted by the chief, who made a
+second harangue, on which six or eight young men rode forward to their
+camp, and no further regularity was observed in the order of march. At
+the distance of four miles from where they had first met, they reached
+the Indian camp, which was in a handsome level meadow on the bank of the
+river. Here they were introduced into an old leathern lodge which the
+young men who had been sent from the party had fitted up for their
+reception. After being seated on green boughs and antelope skins, one of
+the warriors pulled up the grass in the centre of the lodge so as to
+form a vacant circle of two feet diameter, in which he kindled a fire.
+The chief then produced his pipe and tobacco, the warriors all pulled
+off their moccasins, and our party was requested to take off their own.
+This being done, the chief lighted his pipe at the fire within the magic
+circle, and then retreating from it began a speech several minutes long,
+at the end of which he pointed the stem towards the four cardinal points
+of the heavens, beginning with the east and concluding with the north.
+After this ceremony he presented the stem in the same way to captain
+Lewis, who supposing it an invitation to smoke, put out his hand to
+receive the pipe, but the chief drew it back, and continued to repeat
+the same offer three times, after which he pointed the stem first to the
+heavens, then to the centre of the little circle, took three whiffs
+himself, and presented it again to captain Lewis. Finding that this last
+offer was in good earnest, he smoked a little, the pipe was then held to
+each of the white men, and after they had taken a few whiffs was given
+to the warriors. This pipe was made of a dense transparent green stone,
+very highly polished; about two and an half inches long, and of an oval
+figure, the bowl being in the same situation with the stem. A small
+piece of burnt clay is placed in the bottom of the bowl to separate the
+tobacco from the end of the stem, and is of an irregularly round figure,
+not fitting the tube perfectly close, in order that the smoke may pass
+with facility. The tobacco is of the same kind with that used by the
+Minnetarees, Mandans and Ricaras of the Missouri. The Shoshonees do not
+cultivate this plant, but obtain it from the Rocky mountain Indians, and
+some of the bands of their own nation who live further south. The
+ceremony of smoking being concluded, captain Lewis explained to the
+chief the purposes of his visit, and as by this time all the women and
+children of the camp had gathered around the lodge to indulge in a view
+of the first white men they had ever seen, he distributed among them the
+remainder of the small articles he had brought with him. It was now late
+in the afternoon, and our party had tasted no food since the night
+before. On apprising the chief of this circumstance, he said that he had
+nothing but berries to eat, and presented some cakes made of
+serviceberry and chokecherries which had been dried in the sun. On these
+captain Lewis made a hearty meal, and then walked down towards the
+river: he found it a rapid clear stream forty yards wide and three feet
+deep; the banks were low and abrupt, like those of the upper part of the
+Missouri, and the bed formed of loose stones and gravel. Its course, as
+far as he could observe it, was a little to the north of west, and was
+bounded on each side by a range of high mountains, of which those on the
+east are the lowest and most distant from the river.
+
+The chief informed him that this stream discharged itself at the
+distance of half a day's march, into another of twice its size, coming
+from the southwest; but added, on further inquiry, that there was
+scarcely more timber below the junction of those rivers than in this
+neighbourhood, and that the river was rocky, rapid, and so closely
+confined between high mountains, that it was impossible to pass down
+it, either by land or water to the great lake, where as he had
+understood the white men lived. This information was far from being
+satisfactory; for there was no timber here that would answer the purpose
+of building canoes, indeed not more than just sufficient for fuel, and
+even that consisted of the narrow-leafed cotton wood, the red and the
+narrow-leafed willow, the chokecherry, serviceberry and a few currant
+bushes such as are common on the Missouri. The prospect of going on by
+land is more pleasant; for there are great numbers of horses feeding in
+every direction round the camp, which will enable us to transport our
+stores if necessary over the mountains. Captain Lewis returned from the
+river to his lodge, and on his way an Indian invited him into his bower
+and gave him a small morsel of boiled antelope and a piece of fresh
+salmon roasted. This was the first salmon he had seen, and perfectly
+satisfied him that he was now on the waters of the Pacific. On reaching
+this lodge, he resumed his conversation with the chief, after which he
+was entertained with a dance by the Indians. It now proved, as our party
+had feared, that the men whom they had first met this morning had
+returned to the camp and spread the alarm that their enemies, the
+Minnetarees of fort de Prairie, whom they call Pahkees, were advancing
+on them. The warriors instantly armed themselves and were coming down in
+expectation of an attack, when they were agreeably surprised by meeting
+our party. The greater part of them were armed with bows and arrows, and
+shields, but a few had small fusils, such as are furnished by the
+northwest company traders, and which they had obtained from the Indians
+on the Yellowstone, with whom they are now at peace. They had reason to
+dread the approach of the Pahkees, who had attacked them in the course
+of this spring and totally defeated them. On this occasion twenty of
+their warriors were either killed or made prisoners, and they lost their
+whole camp except the leathern lodge which they had fitted up for us,
+and were now obliged to live in huts of a conical figure made with
+willow brush. The music and dancing, which was in no respect different
+from those of the Missouri Indians, continued nearly all night; but
+captain Lewis retired to rest about twelve o'clock, when the fatigues of
+the day enabled him to sleep though he was awaked several times by the
+yells of the dancers.
+
+Whilst all these things were occurring to captain Lewis we were slowly
+and laboriously ascending the river. For the first two and a half miles
+we went along the island opposite to which we encamped last evening, and
+soon reached a second island behind which comes in a small creek on the
+left side of the river. It rises in the mountains to the east and forms
+a handsome valley for some miles from its mouth, where it is a bold
+running stream about seven yards wide: we called it M'Neal's creek,
+after Hugh M'Neal one of our party. Just above this stream and at the
+distance of four miles from our camp is a point of limestone rock on the
+right, about seventy feet high, forming a cliff over the river. From the
+top of it the Beaver's-head bore north 24° east twelve miles distant,
+the course of Wisdom river, that is the direction of its valley through
+the mountains is north 25° west, while the gap through which the
+Jefferson enters the mountains is ten miles above us on a course south
+18° west. From this limestone rock we proceeded along several islands,
+on both sides, and after making twelve miles arrived at a cliff of high
+rocks on the right, opposite to which we encamped in a smooth level
+prairie, near a few cottonwood trees; but were obliged to use the dry
+willow brush for fuel. The river is still very crooked, the bends short
+and abrupt, and obstructed by so many shoals, over which the canoes were
+to be dragged, that the men were in the water three fourths of the day.
+They saw numbers of otter, some beaver, antelopes, ducks, geese, and
+cranes, but they killed nothing except a single deer. They, however,
+caught some very fine trout, as they have done for several days past.
+The weather had been cloudy and cool during the forepart of the day, and
+at eight o'clock a shower of rain fell.
+
+Wednesday 14. In order to give time for the boats to reach the forks of
+Jefferson river, captain Lewis determined to remain here and obtain all
+the information he could collect with regard to the country. Having
+nothing to eat but a little flour and parched meal, with the berries of
+the Indians, he sent out Drewyer and Shields, who borrowed horses from
+the natives, to hunt for a few hours. About the same time the young
+warriors set out for the same purpose. There are but few elk or
+blacktailed deer in this neighbourhood, and as the common red-deer
+secrete themselves in the bushes when alarmed, they are soon safe from
+the arrows, which are but feeble weapons against any animals which the
+huntsmen cannot previously run down with their horses. The chief game of
+the Shoshonees, therefore, is the antelope, which when pursued retreats
+to the open plains, where the horses have full room for the chase. But
+such is its extraordinary fleetness and wind that a single horse has no
+possible chance of outrunning it, or tiring it down; and the hunters are
+therefore obliged to resort to stratagem. About twenty Indians, mounted
+on fine horses, and armed with bows and arrows, left the camp; in a
+short time they descried a herd of ten antelopes: they immediately
+separated into little squads of two or three, and formed a scattered
+circle round the herd for five or six miles, keeping at a wary distance,
+so as not to alarm them till they were perfectly inclosed, and usually
+selecting some commanding eminence as a stand. Having gained their
+positions, a small party rode towards the herd, and with wonderful
+dexterity the huntsman preserved his seat, and the horse his footing, as
+he ran at full speed over the hills, and down the steep ravines, and
+along the borders of the precipices. They were soon outstripped by the
+antelopes, which on gaining the other extremity of the circle were
+driven back and pursued by the fresh hunters. They turned and flew,
+rather than ran in another direction; but there too, they found new
+enemies. In this way they were alternately pursued backwards and
+forwards, till at length, notwithstanding the skill of the hunters, they
+all escaped, and the party after running for two hours returned without
+having caught any thing, and their horses foaming with sweat. This
+chase, the greater part of which was seen from the camp, formed a
+beautiful scene; but to the hunters is exceedingly laborious, and so
+unproductive, even when they are able to worry the animal down and shoot
+him, that forty or fifty hunters will sometimes be engaged for half a
+day without obtaining more than two or three antelopes. Soon after they
+returned, our two huntsmen came in with no better success. Captain Lewis
+therefore made a little paste with the flour, and the addition of some
+berries formed a very palatable repast. Having now secured the good will
+of Cameahwait, captain Lewis informed him of his wish that he would
+speak to the warriors and endeavour to engage them to accompany him to
+the forks of Jefferson river, where by this time another chief with a
+large party of white men were waiting his return: that it would be
+necessary to take about thirty horses to transport the merchandize; that
+they should be well rewarded for their trouble; and that when all the
+party should have reached the Shoshonee camp they would remain some time
+among them, and trade for horses, as well as concert plans for
+furnishing them in future with regular supplies of merchandize. He
+readily consented to do so, and after collecting the tribe together he
+made a long harangue, and in about an hour and a half returned, and told
+captain Lewis that they would be ready to accompany him in the morning.
+
+As the early part of the day was cold, and the men stiff and sore from
+the fatigues of yesterday: we did not set out till seven o'clock. At the
+distance of a mile we passed a bold stream on the right, which comes
+from a snowy mountain to the north, and at its entrance is four yards
+wide, and three feet in depth: we called it Track creek: at six miles
+further we reached another stream which heads in some springs at the
+foot of the mountains on the left. Alter passing a number of bayous and
+small islands on each side, we encamped about half a mile by land below
+the Rattlesnake cliffs. The river was cold, shallow, and as it
+approached the mountains formed one continued rapid, over which we were
+obliged to drag the boats with great labour and difficulty. By using
+constant exertions we succeeded in making fourteen miles, but this
+distance did not carry us more than six and a half in a straight line:
+several of the men have received wounds and lamed themselves in hauling
+the boats over the stones. The hunters supplied them with five deer and
+an antelope.
+
+Thursday 15. Captain Lewis rose early, and having eaten nothing
+yesterday except his scanty meal of flour and berries felt the
+inconveniences of extreme hunger. On inquiry he found that his whole
+stock of provisions consisted of two pounds of flour. This he ordered to
+be divided into two equal parts, and one half of it boiled with the
+berries into a sort of pudding: and after presenting a large share to
+the chief, he and his three men breakfasted on the remainder. Cameahwait
+was delighted at this new dish; he took a little of the flour in his
+hand tasted and examined it very narrowly, asking if it was made of
+roots; captain Lewis explained the process of preparing it, and he said
+it was the best thing he had eaten for a long time.
+
+This being finished, captain Lewis now endeavoured to hasten the
+departure of the Indians who still hesitated, and seemed reluctant to
+move, although the chief addressed them twice for the purpose of urging
+them: on inquiring the reason, Cameahwait told him that some foolish
+person had suggested that he was in league with their enemies the
+Pahkees, and had come only to draw them into ambuscade, but that he
+himself did not believe it: captain Lewis felt uneasy at this
+insinuation: he knew the suspicious temper of the Indians, accustomed
+from their infancy to regard every stranger as an enemy, and saw that if
+this suggestion were not instantly checked, it might hazard the total
+failure of the enterprise. Assuming therefore a serious air, he told the
+chief that he was sorry to find they placed so little confidence in him,
+but that he pardoned their suspicions because they were ignorant of the
+character of white men, among whom it was disgraceful to lie or entrap
+even an enemy by falsehood; that if they continued to think thus meanly
+of us they might be assured no white men would ever come to supply them
+with arms and merchandize; that there was at this moment a party of
+white men waiting to trade with them at the forks of the river; and that
+if the greater part of the tribe entertained any suspicion, he hoped
+there were still among them some who were men, who would go and see with
+their own eyes the truth of what he said, and who, even if there was any
+danger, were not afraid to die. To doubt the courage of an Indian is to
+touch the tenderest string of his mind, and the surest way to rouse him
+to any dangerous achievement. Cameahwait instantly replied, that he was
+not afraid to die, and mounting his horse, for the third time harangued
+the warriors: he told them that he was resolved to go if he went alone,
+or if he were sure of perishing; that he hoped there were among those
+who heard him some who were not afraid to die, and who would prove it by
+mounting their horses and following him. This harangue produced an
+effect on six or eight only of the warriors, who now joined their chief.
+With these captain Lewis smoked a pipe, and then fearful of some change
+in their capricious temper set out immediately. It was about twelve
+o'clock when his small party left the camp, attended by Cameahwait and
+the eight warriors; their departure seemed to spread a gloom over the
+village; those who would not venture to go were sullen and melancholy,
+and the woman were crying and imploring the Great Spirit to protect
+their warriors as if they were going to certain destruction: yet such
+is the wavering inconstancy of these savages, that captain Lewis's party
+had not gone far when they were joined by ten or twelve more warriors,
+and before reaching the creek which they had passed on the morning of
+the 13th, all the men of the nation and a number of women had overtaken
+them, and had changed from the surly ill temper in which they were two
+hours ago, to the greatest cheerfulness and gayety. When they arrived at
+the spring on the side of the mountain where the party had encamped on
+the 12th, the chief insisted on halting to let the horses graze; to
+which captain Lewis assented and smoked with them. They are excessively
+fond of the pipe, in which however they are not able to indulge much as
+they do not cultivate tobacco themselves, and their rugged country
+affords them but few articles to exchange for it. Here they remained for
+about an hour, and on setting out, by engaging to pay four of the party,
+captain Lewis obtained permission for himself and each of his men to
+ride behind an Indian; but he soon found riding without stirrup more
+tiresome than walking, and therefore dismounted, making the Indian carry
+his pack. About sunset they reached the upper part of the level valley
+in the cove through which he had passed, and which they now called
+Shoshonee cove. The grass being burnt on the north side of the river
+they crossed over to the south, and encamped about four miles above the
+narrow pass between the hills noticed as they traversed the cove before.
+The river was here about six yards wide, and frequently dammed up by the
+beaver. Drewyer had been sent forward to hunt, but he returned in the
+evening unsuccessful, and their only supper therefore was the remaining
+pound of flour stirred in a little boiling water and then divided
+between the four white men and two of the Indians.
+
+In order not to exhaust the strength of the men, captain Clarke did not
+leave his camp till after breakfast. Although, he was scarcely half a
+mile below the Rattlesnake cliffs he was obliged to make a circuit of
+two miles by water before he reached them. The river now passed between
+low and rugged mountains and cliffs formed of a mixture of limestone and
+a hard black rock, with no covering except a few scattered pines. At the
+distance of four miles is a bold little stream which throws itself from
+the mountains down a steep precipice of rocks on the left. One mile
+farther is a second point of rocks, and an island, about a mile beyond
+which is a creek on the right, ten yards wide and three feet three
+inches in depth, with a strong current: we called it Willard's creek
+after one of our men, Alexander Willard. Three miles beyond this creek,
+after passing a high cliff on the right opposite to a steep hill, we
+reached a small meadow on the left bank of the river. During its passage
+through these hills to Willard's creek the river had been less torturous
+than usual, so that in the first six miles to Willard's creek we had
+advanced four miles on our route. We continued on for two miles, till we
+reached in the evening a small bottom covered with clover and a few
+cottonwood trees: here we passed the night near the remains of some old
+Indian lodges of brush. The river is as it has been for some days
+shallow and rapid; and our men, who are for hours together in the river,
+suffer not only from fatigue, but from the extreme coldness of the
+water, the temperature of which is as low as that of the freshest
+springs in our country. In walking along the side of the river, captain
+Clarke was very near being bitten twice by rattlesnakes, and the Indian
+woman narrowly escaped the same misfortune. We caught a number of fine
+trout; but the only game procured to-day was a buck, which had a
+peculiarly bitter taste, proceeding probably from its favourite food,
+the willow.
+
+Friday, 16. As neither our party nor the Indians had any thing to eat,
+captain Lewis sent two of his hunters ahead this morning to procure some
+provision: at the same time he requested Cameahwait to prevent his young
+men from going out, lest by their noise they might alarm the game; but
+this measure immediately revived their suspicions: it now began to be
+believed that these men were sent forward in order to apprise the enemy
+of their coming, and as captain Lewis was fearful of exciting any
+further uneasiness, he made no objection on seeing a small party of
+Indians go on each side of the valley under pretence of hunting, but in
+reality to watch the movements of our two men: even this precaution
+however did not quiet the alarms of the Indians, a considerable part of
+whom returned home, leaving only twenty-eight men and three women. After
+the hunters had been gone about an hour, captain Lewis again mounted
+with one of the Indians behind him, and the whole party set out; but
+just as they passed through the narrows they saw one of the spies coming
+back at full speed across the plain: the chief stopped and seemed
+uneasy, the whole band were moved with fresh suspicions, and captain
+Lewis himself was much disconcerted, lest by some unfortunate accident
+some of their enemies might have perhaps straggled that way. The young
+Indian had scarcely breath to say a few words as he came up, when the
+whole troop dashed forward as fast as their horses could carry them, and
+captain Lewis astonished at this movement was borne along for nearly a
+mile before he learnt with great satisfaction that it was all caused by
+the spy's having come to announce that one of the white men had killed a
+deer. Relieved from his anxiety he now found the jolting very
+uncomfortable; for the Indian behind him being afraid of not getting his
+share of the feast had lashed the horse at every step since they set
+off; he therefore reined him in and ordered the Indian to stop beating
+him. The fellow had no idea of losing time in disputing the point, and
+jumping off the horse ran for a mile at full speed. Captain Lewis
+slackened his pace, and followed at a sufficient distance to observe
+them. When they reached the place where Drewyer had thrown out the
+intestines, they all dismounted in confusion and ran tumbling over each
+other like famished dogs: each tore away whatever part he could and
+instantly began to eat it; some had the liver, some the kidneys, in
+short no part on which we are accustomed to look with disgust escaped
+them: one of them who had seized about nine feet of the entrails was
+chewing at one end, while with his hand he was diligently clearing his
+way by discharging the contents at the other. It was indeed impossible
+to see these wretches ravenously feeding on the filth of animals, and
+the blood streaming from their mouths, without deploring how nearly the
+condition of savages approaches that of the brute creation: yet though
+suffering with hunger they did not attempt, as they might have done, to
+take by force the whole deer, but contented themselves with what had
+been thrown away by the hunter. Captain Lewis now had the deer skinned,
+and after reserving a quarter of it gave the rest of the animal to the
+chief to be divided among the Indians, who immediately devoured nearly
+the whole of it without cooking. They now went forward towards the creek
+where there was some brushwood to make a fire, and found Drewyer who had
+killed a second deer: the same struggle for the entrails was renewed
+here, and on giving nearly the whole deer to the Indians, they devoured
+it even to the soft part of the hoofs. A fire being made captain Lewis
+had his breakfast, during which Drewyer brought in a third deer: this
+too, after reserving one quarter, was given to the Indians, who now
+seemed completely satisfied and in good humour. At this place they
+remained about two hours to let the horses graze, and then continued
+their journey, and towards evening reached the lower part of the cove
+having on the way shot an antelope, the greater part of which was given
+to the Indians. As they were now approaching the place where they had
+been told by Captain Lewis they would see the white men, the chief
+insisted on halting: they therefore all dismounted, and Cameahwait with
+great ceremony and as if for ornament, put tippets or skins round the
+necks of our party, similar to those worn by themselves. As this was
+obviously intended to disguise the white men, captain Lewis in order to
+inspire them with more confidence put his cocked hat and feather on the
+head of the chief, and as his own over-shirt was in the Indian form, and
+his skin browned by the sun, he could not have been distinguished from
+an Indian: the men followed his example, and the change seemed to be
+very agreeable* to the Indians.
+
+In order to guard however against any disappointment captain Lewis again
+explained the possibility of our not having reached the forks in
+consequence of the difficulty of the navigation, so that if they should
+not find us at that spot they might be assured of our not being far
+below. They again all mounted their horses and rode on rapidly, making
+one of the Indians carry their flag, so that we might recognise them as
+they approached us; but to the mortification and disappointment of both
+parties on coming within two miles of the forks, no canoes were to be
+seen. Uneasy lest at this moment he should be abandoned, and all his
+hopes of obtaining aid from the Indians be destroyed, captain Lewis gave
+the chief his gun, telling him that if the enemies of his nation were in
+the bushes he might defend himself with it; that for his own part he was
+not afraid to die, and that the chief might shoot him as soon as they
+discovered themselves betrayed. The other three men at the same time
+gave their guns to the Indians, who now seemed more easy, but still
+wavered in their resolutions. As they went on towards the point, captain
+Lewis perceiving how critical his situation had become, resolved to
+attempt a stratagem which his present difficulty seemed completely to
+justify. Recollecting the notes he had left at the point for us, he sent
+Drewyer for them with an Indian who witnessed his taking them from the
+pole. When they were brought, captain Lewis told Cameahwait that on
+leaving his brother chief at the place where the river issues from the
+mountains, it was agreed that the boats should not be brought higher
+than the next forks we should meet; but that if the rapid water
+prevented the boats from coming on as fast as they expected, his brother
+chief was to send a note to the first forks above him to let him know
+where the boats were; that this note had been left this morning at the
+forks, and mentioned that the canoes were just below the mountains, and
+coming slowly up in consequence of the current. Captain Lewis added,
+that he would stay at the forks for his brother chief, but would send a
+man down the river, and that if Cameahwait doubted what he said, one of
+their young men would go with him whilst he and the other two remained
+at the forks. This story satisfied the chief and the greater part of the
+Indians, but a few did not conceal their suspicion, observing that we
+told different stories, and complaining that the chief exposed them to
+danger by a mistaken confidence. Captain Lewis now wrote by the light of
+some willow brush a note to captain Clarke, which he gave to Drewyer,
+with an order to use all possible expedition in ascending the river, and
+engaged an Indian to accompany him by a promise of a knife and some
+beads. At bedtime the chief and five others slept round the fire of
+captain Lewis, and the rest hid themselves in different parts of the
+willow brush to avoid the enemy, who they feared would attack them in
+the night. Captain Lewis endeavoured to assume a cheerfulness he did not
+feel to prevent the despondency of the savages: after conversing gayly
+with them he retired to his musquitoe bier, by the side of which the
+chief now placed himself: he lay down, yet slept but little, being in
+fact scarcely less uneasy than his Indian companions. He was
+apprehensive that finding the ascent of the river impracticable, captain
+Clarke might have stopped below the Rattlesnake bluff, and the messenger
+would not meet him. The consequence of disappointing the Indians at this
+moment would most probably be, that they would retire and secrete
+themselves in the mountains, so as to prevent our having an opportunity
+of recovering their confidence: they would also spread a panic through
+all the neighbouring Indians, and cut us off from the supply of horses
+so useful and almost so essential to our success: he was at the same
+time consoled by remembering that his hopes of assistance rested on
+better foundations than their generosity--their avarice, and their
+curiosity. He had promised liberal exchanges for their horses; but what
+was still move seductive, he had told them that one of their
+country-women who had been taken with the Minnetarees accompanied the
+party below; and one of the men had spread the report of our having with
+us a man perfectly black, whose hair was short and curled. This last
+account had excited a great degree of curiosity, and they seemed more
+desirous of seeing this monster than of obtaining the most favourable
+barter for their horses.
+
+In the meantime we had set out after breakfast, and although we
+proceeded with more ease than we did yesterday, the river was still so
+rapid and shallow as to oblige us to drag the large canoes during the
+greater part of the day. For the first seven miles the river formed a
+bend to the right so as to make our advance only three miles in a
+straight line; the stream is crooked, narrow, small, and shallow, with
+highlands occasionally on the banks, and strewed with islands, four of
+which are opposite to each other. Near this place we left the valley, to
+which we gave the name of Serviceberry valley, from the abundance of
+that fruit now ripe which is found in it. In the course of the four
+following miles we passed several more islands and bayous on each side
+of the river, and reached a high cliff on the right. Two and a half
+miles beyond this the cliffs approach on both sides and form a very
+considerable rapid near the entrance of a bold running stream on the
+left. The water was now excessively cold, and the rapids had been
+frequent and troublesome. On ascending an eminence captain Clarke saw
+the forks of the river and sent the hunters up. They must have left it
+only a short time before captain Lewis's arrival, but fortunately had
+not seen the note which enabled him to induce the Indians to stay with
+him. From the top of this eminence he could discover only three trees
+through the whole country, nor was there along the sides of the cliffs
+they had passed in the course of the day, any timber except a few small
+pines: the low grounds were supplied with willow, currant bushes, and
+serviceberries. After advancing half a mile further we came to the lower
+point of an island near the middle of the river, and about the centre of
+the valley: here we halted for the night, only four miles by land,
+though ten by water, below the point where captain Lewis lay. Although
+we had made only fourteen miles, the labours of the men had fatigued and
+exhausted them very much: we therefore collected some small willow brush
+for a fire, and lay down to sleep.
+
+
+
+
+                               CHAPTER XV.
+
+     Affecting interview between the wife of Chaboneau and the chief of
+     the Shoshonees--Council held with that nation, and favourable
+     result--The extreme navigable point of the Missouri
+     mentioned--General character of the river and of the country
+     through which it passes--Captain Clarke in exploring the source of
+     the Columbia falls in company with another party of Shoshonees--The
+     geographical information acquired from one of that party--Their
+     manner of catching fish--The party reach Lewis river--The
+     difficulties which captain Clarke had to encounter in his
+     route--Friendship and hospitality of the Shoshonees--The party with
+     captain Lewis employed in making saddles, and preparing for the
+     journey.
+
+
+Saturday, August 17. Captain Lewis rose very early and despatched
+Drewyer and the Indian down the river in quest of the boats. Shields was
+sent out at the same time to hunt, while M'Neal prepared a breakfast out
+of the remainder of the meat. Drewyer had been gone about two hours, and
+the Indians were all anxiously waiting for some news, when an Indian who
+had straggled a short distance down the river, returned with a report
+that he had seen the white men, who were only a short distance below,
+and were coming on. The Indians were all transported with joy, and the
+chief in the warmth of his satisfaction renewed his embrace to captain
+Lewis, who was quite as much delighted as the Indians themselves; the
+report proved most agreeably true. On setting out at seven o'clock,
+captain Clarke with Chaboneau and his wife walked on shore, but they had
+not gone more than a mile before captain Clarke saw Sacajawea, who was
+with her husband one hundred yards ahead, began to dance, and show every
+mark of the most extravagant joy, turning round him and pointing to
+several Indians, whom he now saw advancing on horseback, sucking her
+fingers at the same time to indicate that they were of her native tribe.
+As they advanced captain Clarke discovered among them Drewyer dressed
+like an Indian, from whom he learnt the situation of the party. While
+the boats were performing the circuit, he went towards the forks with
+the Indians, who as they went along, sang aloud with the greatest
+appearance of delight. We soon drew near to the camp, and just as we
+approached it a woman made her way through the crowd towards Sacajawea,
+and recognising each other, they embraced with the most tender
+affection. The meeting of these two young women had in it something
+peculiarly touching, not only in the ardent manner in which their
+feelings were expressed, but from the real interest of their situation.
+They had been companions in childhood, in the war with the Minnetarees
+they had both been taken prisoners in the same battle, they had shared
+and softened the rigours of their captivity, till one of them had
+escaped from the Minnetarees, with scarce a hope of ever seeing her
+friend relieved from the hands of her enemies. While Sacajawea was
+renewing among the women the friendships of former days, captain Clarke
+went on, and was received by captain Lewis and the chief, who after the
+first embraces and salutations were over, conducted him to a sort of
+circular tent or shade of willows. Here he was seated on a white robe;
+and the chief immediately tied in his hair six small shells resembling
+pearls, an ornament highly valued by these people, who procured them in
+the course of trade from the seacoast. The moccasins of the whole party
+were then taken off, and after much ceremony the smoking began. After
+this the conference was to be opened, and glad of an opportunity of
+being able to converse more intelligibly, Sacajawea was sent for; she
+came into the tent, sat down, and was beginning to interpret, when in
+the person of Cameahwait she recognised her brother: she instantly
+jumped up, and ran and embraced him, throwing over him her blanket and
+weeping profusely; the chief was himself moved, though not in the same
+degree. After some conversation between them she resumed her seat, and
+attempted to interpret for us, but her new situation seemed to
+overpower her, and she was frequently interrupted by her tears. After
+the council was finished, the unfortunate woman learnt that all her
+family were dead except two brothers, one of whom was absent, and a son
+of her eldest sister, a small boy, who was immediately adopted by her.
+The canoes arriving soon after, we formed a camp in a meadow on the left
+side, a little below the forks; took out our baggage, and by means of
+our sails and willow poles formed a canopy for our Indian visitors.
+About four o'clock the chiefs and warriors were collected, and after the
+customary ceremony of taking off the moccasins and smoking a pipe, we
+explained to them in a long harangue the purposes of our visit, making
+themselves one conspicuous object of the good wishes of our government,
+on whose strength as well as its friendly disposition we expatiated. We
+told them of their dependance on the will of our government for all
+future supplies of whatever was necessary either for their comfort or
+defence; that as we were sent to discover the best route by which
+merchandize could be conveyed to them, and no trade would be begun
+before our return, it was mutually advantageous that we should proceed
+with as little delay as possible; that we were under the necessity of
+requesting them to furnish us with horses to transport our baggage
+across the mountains, and a guide to show us the route, but that they
+should be amply remunerated for their horses, as well as for every other
+service they should render us. In the meantime our first wish was, that
+they should immediately collect as many horses as were necessary to
+transport our baggage to their village, where, at our leisure we would
+trade with them for as many horses as they could spare.
+
+The speech made a favourable impression: the chief in reply thanked us
+for our expressions of friendship towards himself and his nation, and
+declared their willingness to render us every service. He lamented that
+it would be so long before they should be supplied with firearms, but
+that till then they could subsist as they had heretofore done. He
+concluded by saying that there were not horses here sufficient to
+transport our goods, but that he would return to the village to-morrow,
+and bring all his own horses, and encourage his people to come over with
+theirs. The conference being ended to our satisfaction, we now inquired
+of Cameahwait what chiefs were among the party, and he pointed out two
+of them. We then distributed our presents: to Cameahwait we gave a medal
+of the small size, with the likeness of president Jefferson, and on the
+reverse a figure of hands clasped with a pipe and tomahawk: to this was
+added an uniform coat, a shirt, a pair of scarlet leggings, a carrot of
+tobacco, and some small articles. Each of the other chiefs received a
+small medal struck during the presidency of general Washington, a shirt,
+handkerchief, leggings, a knife, and some tobacco. Medals of the same
+sort were also presented to two young warriors, who though not chiefs
+were promising youths and very much respected in the tribe. These
+honorary gifts were followed by presents of paint, moccasins, awls,
+knives, beads and looking-glasses. We also gave them all a plentiful
+meal of Indian corn, of which the hull is taken off by being boiled in
+lye; and as this was the first they had ever tasted, they were very much
+pleased with it. They had indeed abundant sources of surprise in all
+they saw: the appearance of the men, their arms, their clothing, the
+canoes, the strange looks of the negro, and the sagacity of our dog, all
+in turn shared their admiration, which was raised to astonishment by a
+shot from the airgun: this operation was instantly considered as a
+_great medicine_, by which they as well as the other Indians mean
+something emanating directly from the Great Spirit, or produced by his
+invisible and incomprehensible agency. The display of all these riches
+had been intermixed with inquiries into the geographical situation of
+their country; for we had learnt by experience, that to keep the savages
+in good temper their attention should not be wearied with too much
+business; but that the serious affairs should be enlivened by a mixture
+of what is new and entertaining. Our hunters brought in very seasonably
+four deer and an antelope, the last of which we gave to the Indians, who
+in a very short time devoured it. After the council was over, we
+consulted as to our future operations. The game does not promise to last
+here for a number of days, and this circumstance combined with many
+others to induce our going on as soon as possible. Our Indian
+information as to the state of the Columbia is of a very alarming kind,
+and our first object is of course to ascertain the practicability of
+descending it, of which the Indians discourage our expectations. It was
+therefore agreed that captain Clarke should set off in the morning with
+eleven men, furnished, besides their arms, with tools for making canoes;
+that he should take Chaboneau and his wife to the camp of the
+Shoshonees, where he was to leave them, in order to hasten the
+collection of horses; that he was then to lead his men down to the
+Columbia, and if he found it navigable, and the timber in sufficient
+quantity, begin to build canoes. As soon as he had decided as to the
+propriety of proceeding down the Columbia or across the mountains, he
+was to send back one of the men with information of it to captain Lewis,
+who by that time would have brought up the whole party, and the rest of
+the baggage as far as the Shoshonee village.
+
+Preparations were accordingly made this evening for such an arrangement.
+The sun is excessively hot in the day time, but the nights very cold,
+and rendered still more unpleasant from the want of any fuel except
+willow brush. The appearances too of game, for many days' subsistence,
+are not very favourable.
+
+Sunday 18. In order to relieve the men of captain Clarke's party from
+the heavy weight of their arms provisions and tools, we exposed a few
+articles to barter for horses, and soon obtained three very good ones,
+in exchange for which we gave a uniform coat, a pair of leggings, a few
+handkerchiefs, three knifes and some other small articles, the whole of
+which did not in the United States cost more than twenty dollars: a
+fourth was purchased by the men for an old checkered shirt, a pair of
+old leggings and a knife. The Indians seemed to be quite as well pleased
+as ourselves at the bargains they had made. We now found that the two
+inferior chiefs were somewhat displeased at not having received a
+present equal to that given to the great chief, who appeared in a dress
+so much finer than their own. To allay their discontent, we bestowed on
+them two old coats, and promised them that if they were active in
+assisting us across the mountains they should have an additional
+present. This treatment completely reconciled them, and the whole Indian
+party, except two men and two women, set out in perfect good humour to
+return home with captain Clarke. After going fifteen miles through a
+wide level valley with no wood but willows and shrubs, he encamped in
+the Shoshonee cove near a narrow pass where the highlands approach
+within two hundred yards of each other, and the river is only ten yards
+wide. The Indians went on further, except the three chiefs and two young
+men, who assisted in eating two deer brought in by the hunters. After
+their departure every thing was prepared for the transportation of the
+baggage, which was now exposed to the air and dried. Our game was one
+deer and a beaver, and we saw an abundance of trout in the river for
+which we fixed a net in the evening.
+
+We have now reached the extreme navigable point of the Missouri, which
+our observation places in latitude 43° 30' 43" north. It is difficult to
+comprise in any general description the characteristics of a river so
+extensive, and fed by so many streams which have their sources in a
+great variety of soils and climates. But the Missouri is still
+sufficiently powerful to give to all its waters something of a common
+character, which is of course decided by the nature of the country
+through which it passes. The bed of the river is chiefly composed of a
+blue mud from which the water itself derives a deep tinge. From its
+junction here to the place near which it leaves the mountains, its
+course is embarrassed by rapids and rocks which the hills on each side
+have thrown into its channel. From that place, its current, with the
+exception of the falls, is not difficult of navigation, nor is there
+much variation in its appearance till the mouth of the Platte. That
+powerful river throws out vast quantities of coarse sand which
+contribute to give a new face to the Missouri, which is now much more
+impeded by islands. The sand, as it is drifted down, adheres in time to
+some of the projecting points from the shore, and forms a barrier to the
+mud, which at length fills to the same height with the sandbar itself;
+as soon as it has acquired a consistency, the willow grows there the
+first year, and by its roots assists the solidity of the whole: as the
+mud and sand accumulate the cottonwood tree next appears; till the
+gradual excretion of soils raises the surface of the point above the
+highest freshets. Thus stopped in its course the water seeks a passage
+elsewhere, and as the soil on each side is light and yielding, what was
+only a peninsula, becomes gradually an island, and the river indemnifies
+itself for the usurpation by encroaching on the adjacent shore. In this
+way the Missouri like the Mississippi is constantly cutting off the
+projections of the shore, and leaving its ancient channel, which is then
+marked by the mud it has deposited and a few stagnant ponds.
+
+The general appearance of the country as it presents itself on ascending
+may be thus described: From its mouth to the two Charletons, a ridge of
+highlands borders the river at a small distance, leaving between them
+fine rich meadows. From the mouth of the two Charletons the hills recede
+from the river, giving greater extent to the low grounds, but they again
+approach the river for a short distance near Grand river, and again at
+Snake creek. From that point they retire, nor do they come again to the
+neighbourhood of the river till above the Sauk prairie, where they are
+comparatively low and small. Thence they diverge and reappear at the
+Charaton Searty, after which they are scarcely if at all discernible,
+till they advance to the Missouri nearly opposite to the Kanzas.
+
+The same ridge of hills extends on the south side, in almost one
+unbroken chain, from the mouth of the Missouri to the Kanzas, though
+decreasing in height beyond the Osage. As they are nearer the river than
+the hills on the opposite sides, the intermediate low grounds are of
+course narrower, but the general character of the soil is common to both
+sides.
+
+In the meadows and along the shore, the tree most common is the
+cottonwood, which with the willow forms almost the exclusive growth of
+the Missouri. The hills or rather high grounds, for they do not rise
+higher than from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet, are composed
+of a good rich black soil, which is perfectly susceptible of
+cultivation, though it becomes richer on the hills beyond the Platte,
+and are in general thinly covered with timber. Beyond these hills the
+country extends into high open plains, which are on both sides
+sufficiently fertile, but the south has the advantage of better streams
+of water, and may therefore be considered as preferable for settlements.
+The lands, however, become much better and the timber more abundant
+between the Osage and the Kanzas. From the Kanzas to the Nadawa the
+hills continue at nearly an equal distance, varying from four to eight
+miles from each other, except that from the little Platte to nearly
+opposite the ancient Kanzas village, the hills are more remote, and the
+meadows of course wider on the north side of the river. From the Nadawa
+the northern hills disappear, except at occasional intervals, where they
+are seen at a distance, till they return about twenty-seven miles above
+the Platte near the ancient village of the Ayoways. On the south the
+hills continue close to the river from the ancient village of the Kanzas
+up to Council bluff, fifty miles beyond the Platte; forming high
+prairie lands. On both sides the lands are good, and perhaps this
+distance from the Osage to the Platte may be recommended as among the
+best districts on the Missouri for the purposes of settlers.
+
+From the Ayoway village the northern hills again retire from the river,
+to which they do not return till three hundred and twenty miles above,
+at Floyd's river. The hills on the south also leave the river at Council
+bluffs, and reappear at the Mahar village, two hundred miles up the
+Missouri. The country thus abandoned by the hills is more open and the
+timber in smaller quantities than below the Platte, so that although the
+plain is rich and covered with high grass, the want of wood renders it
+less calculated for cultivation than below that river.
+
+The northern hills after remaining near the Missouri for a few miles at
+Floyd's river, recede from it at the Sioux river, the course of which
+they follow; and though they again visit the Missouri at Whitestone
+river, where they are low, yet they do not return to it till beyond
+James river. The highlands on the south, after continuing near the river
+at the Mahar villages, again disappear, and do not approach it till the
+Cobalt bluffs, about forty-four miles from the villages, and then from
+those bluffs to the Yellowstone river, a distance of about one thousand
+miles, they follow the banks of the river with scarcely any deviation.
+
+From the James river, the lower grounds are confined within a narrow
+space by the hills on both sides, which now continue near each other up
+to the mountains. The space between them however varies from one to
+three miles as high as the Muscleshell river, from which the hills
+approach so high as to leave scarcely any low grounds on the river, and
+near the falls reach the waters edge. Beyond the falls the hills are
+scattered and low to the first range of mountains.
+
+The soil during the whole length of the Missouri below the Platte is
+generally speaking very fine, and although the timber is scarce, there
+is still sufficient for the purposes of settlers; But beyond that river,
+although the soil is still rich, yet the almost total absence of timber,
+and particularly the want of good water, of which there is but a small
+quantity in the creeks, and even that brackish, oppose powerful
+obstacles to its settlement. The difficulty becomes still greater
+between the Muscleshell river and the falls, where besides the greater
+scarcity of timber, the country itself is less fertile.
+
+The elevation of these highlands varies as they pass through this
+extensive tract of country. From Wood river they are about one hundred
+and fifty feet above the water, and continue at that height till they
+rise near the Osage, from which place to the ancient fortification they
+again diminish in size. Thence they continue higher till the Mandan
+village, after which they are rather lower till the neighbourhood of
+Muscleshell river, where they are met by the Northern hills, which have
+advanced at a more uniform height, varying from one hundred and fifty to
+two hundred or three hundred feet. From this place to the mountains the
+height of both is nearly the same, from three hundred to five hundred
+feet, and the low grounds so narrow that the traveller seems passing
+through a range of high country. From Maria's river to the falls, the
+hills descend to the height of about two or three hundred feet.
+
+Monday 19. The morning was cold, and the grass perfectly whitened by the
+frost. We were engaged in preparing packs and saddles to load the horses
+as soon as they should arrive. A beaver was caught in a trap, but we
+were disappointed in trying to catch trout in our net; we therefore made
+a seine of willow brush, and by hauling it procured a number of fine
+trout, and a species of mullet which we had not seen before: it is about
+sixteen inches long, the scales small; the nose long, obtusely pointed,
+and exceeding the under jaw; the mouth opens with folds at the sides; it
+has no teeth, and the tongue and palate is smooth. The colour of its
+back and sides is a bluish brown, while the belly is white: it has the
+faggot bones, whence we concluded it to be of the mullet species. It is
+by no means so well flavoured a fish as the trout, which are the same as
+those we first saw at the falls, larger than the speckled trout of the
+mountains in the Atlantic states, and equally well flavoured. In the
+evening the hunters returned with two deer.
+
+Captain Clarke, in the meantime, proceeded through a wide level valley,
+in which the chief pointed out a spot where many of his tribe were
+killed in battle a year ago. The Indians accompanied him during the day,
+and as they had nothing to eat, he was obliged to feed them from his own
+stores, the hunters not being able to kill any thing. Just as he was
+entering the mountains, he met an Indian with two mules and a Spanish
+saddle, who was so polite as to offer one of them to him to ride over
+the hills. Being on foot, captain Clarke accepted his offer and gave him
+a waistcoat as a reward for his civility. He encamped for the night on a
+small stream, and the next morning,
+
+Tuesday, August 20, he set out at six o'clock. In passing through a
+continuation of the hilly broken country, he met several parties of
+Indians. On coming near the camp, which had been removed since we left
+them two miles higher up the river, Cameahwait requested that the party
+should halt. This was complied with: a number of Indians came out from
+the camp, and with great ceremony several pipes were smoked. This being
+over captain Clarke was conducted to a large leathern lodge prepared for
+his party in the middle of the encampment, the Indians having only
+shelters of willow bushes. A few dried berries, and one salmon, the only
+food the whole village could contribute, were then presented to him;
+after which he proceeded to repeat in council, what had been already
+told them, the purposes of his visit; urged them to take their horses
+over and assist in transporting our baggage, and expressed a wish to
+obtain a guide to examine the river. This was explained and enforced to
+the whole village by Cameahwait, and an old man was pointed out who was
+said to know more of their geography to the north than any other person,
+and whom captain Clarke engaged to accompany him. After explaining his
+views he distributed a few presents, the council was ended, and nearly
+half the village set out to hunt the antelope, but returned without
+success.
+
+Captain Clarke in the meantime made particular inquiries as to the
+situation of the country, and the possibility of soon reaching a
+navigable water. The chief began by drawing on the ground a delineation
+of the rivers, from which it appeared that his information was very
+limited. The river on which the camp is he divided into two branches
+just above us, which, as he indicated by the opening of the mountains,
+were in view: he next made it discharge itself into a larger river ten
+miles below, coming from the southwest: the joint stream continued one
+day's march to the northwest, and then inclined to the westward for two
+day's march farther. At that place he placed several heaps of sand on
+each side, which, as he explained them, represented, vast mountains of
+rock always covered with snow, in passing through which the river was so
+completely hemmed in by the high rocks, that there was no possibility of
+travelling along the shore; that the bed of the river was obstructed by
+sharp-pointed rocks, and such its rapidity, that as far as the eye could
+reach it presented a perfect column of foam. The mountains he said were
+equally inaccessible, as neither man nor horse could cross them; that
+such being the state of the country neither he nor any of his nation had
+ever attempted to go beyond the mountains. Cameahwait said also that he
+had been informed by the Chopunnish, or pierced-nose Indians, who reside
+on this river west of the mountains, that it ran a great way towards the
+setting sun, and at length lost itself in a great lake of water which
+was ill-tasted, and where the white men lived. An Indian belonging to a
+band of Shoshonees who live to the southwest, and who happened to be at
+camp, was then brought in, and inquiries made of him as to the
+situation of the country in that direction: this he described in terms
+scarcely less terrible than those in which Cameahwait had represented
+the west. He said that his relations lived at the distance of twenty
+days' march from this place, on a course a little to the west of south
+and not far from the whites, with whom they traded for horses, mules,
+cloth, metal, beads, and the shells here worn as ornaments, and which
+are those of a species of pearl oyster. In order to reach his country we
+should be obliged during the first seven days to climb over steep rocky
+mountains where there was no game, and we should find nothing but roots
+for subsistence. Even for these however we should be obliged to contend
+with a fierce warlike people, whom he called the Broken-moccasin, or
+moccasin with holes, who lived like bears in holes, and fed on roots and
+the flesh of such horses as they could steal or plunder from those who
+passed through the mountains. So rough indeed was the passage, that the
+feet of the horses would be wounded in such a manner that many of them
+would be unable to proceed. The next part of the route was for ten days
+through a dry parched desert of sand, inhabited by no animal which would
+supply us with subsistence, and as the sun had now scorched up the grass
+and dried up the small pools of water which are sometimes scattered
+through this desert in the spring, both ourselves and our horses would
+perish for want of food and water. About the middle of this plain a
+large river passes from southeast to northwest, which, though navigable,
+afforded neither timber nor salmon. Three or four days' march beyond
+this plain his relations lived, in a country tolerably fertile and
+partially covered with timber, on another large river running in the
+same direction as the former; that this last discharges itself into a
+third large river, on which resided many numerous nations, with whom his
+own were at war, but whether this last emptied itself into the great or
+stinking lake, as they called the ocean, he did not know: that from his
+country to the stinking lake was a great distance, and that the route
+to it, taken by such of his relations as had visited it, was up the
+river on which they lived, and over to that on which the white people
+lived, and which they knew discharged itself into the ocean. This route
+he advised us to take, but added, that we had better defer the journey
+till spring, when he would himself conduct us. This account persuaded us
+that the streams of which he spoke were southern branches of the
+Columbia, heading with the Rio des Apostolos, and Rio Colorado, and that
+the route which he mentioned was to the gulf of California: captain
+Clarke therefore told him that this road was too much towards the south
+for our purpose, and then requested to know if there was no route on the
+left of the river where we now are, by which we might intercept it below
+the mountains; but he knew of none except that through the barren
+plains, which he said joined the mountains on that side, and through
+which it was impossible to pass at this season, even if we were
+fortunate enough to escape the Broken-moccasin Indians. Captain Clarke
+recompensed the Indian by a present of a knife, with which he seemed
+much gratified, and now inquired of Cameahwait by what route the
+Pierced-nose Indians, who he said lived west of the mountains, crossed
+over to the Missouri: this he said was towards the north, but that the
+road was a very bad one; that during the passage he had been told they
+suffered excessively from hunger, being obliged to subsist for many days
+on berries alone, there being no game in that part of the mountains,
+which were broken and rocky, and so thickly covered with timber that
+they could scarcely pass. Surrounded by difficulties as all the other
+routes are, this seems to be the most practicable of all the passages by
+land, since, if the Indians can pass the mountains with their women and
+children, no difficulties which they could encounter could be formidable
+to us; and if the Indians below the mountains are so numerous as they
+are represented to be, they must have some means of subsistence equally
+within our power. They tell us indeed that the nations to the westward
+subsist principally on fish and roots, and that their only game were a
+few elk, deer, and antelope, there being no buffaloe west of the
+mountain. The first inquiry however was to ascertain the truth of their
+information relative to the difficulty of descending the river: for this
+purpose captain Clarke set out at three o'clock in the afternoon,
+accompanied by the guide and all his men, except one whom he left with
+orders to purchase a horse and join him as soon as possible. At the
+distance of four miles he crossed the river, and eight miles from the
+camp halted for the night at a small stream. The road which he followed
+was a beaten path through a wide rich meadow, in which were several old
+lodges. On the route he met a number of men, women, and children, as
+well as horses, and one of the men who appeared to possess some
+consideration turned back with him, and observing a woman with three
+salmon obtained them from her, and presented them to the party. Captain
+Clarke shot a mountain cock or cock of the plains, a dark brown bird
+larger than the dunghill fowl, with a long and pointed tail, and a
+fleshy protuberance about the base of the upper chop, something like
+that of the turkey, though without the snout. In the morning,
+
+Wednesday 21, he resumed his march early, and at the distance of five
+miles reached an Indian lodge of brush, inhabited by seven families of
+Shoshonees. They behaved with great civility, gave the whole party as
+much boiled salmon as they could eat, and added as a present several
+dried salmon and a considerable quantity of chokecherries. After smoking
+with them all he visited the fish weir, which was about two hundred
+yards distant; the river was here divided by three small islands, which
+occasioned the water to pass along four channels. Of these three were
+narrow, and stopped by means of trees which were stretched across, and
+supported by willow stakes, sufficiently near each other to prevent the
+passage of the fish. About the centre of each was placed a basket
+formed of willows, eighteen or twenty feet in length, of a cylindrical
+form, and terminating in a conic shape at its lower extremity; this was
+situated with its mouth upwards, opposite to an aperture in the weir.
+The main channel of the water was then conducted to this weir, and as
+the fish entered it they were so entangled with each other that they
+could not move, and were taken out by untying the small end of the
+willow basket. The weir in the main channel was formed in a manner
+somewhat different; there were in fact two distinct weirs formed of
+poles and willow sticks quite across the river, approaching each other
+obliquely with an aperture in each side near the angle. This is made by
+tying a number of poles together at the top, in parcels of three, which
+were then set up in a triangular form at the base, two of the poles
+being in the range desired for the weir, and the third down the stream.
+To these poles two ranges of other poles are next lashed horizontally,
+with willow bark and wythes, and willow sticks joined in with these
+crosswise, so as to form a kind of wicker-work from the bottom of the
+river to the height of three or four feet above the surface of the
+water. This is so thick as to prevent the fish from passing, and even in
+some parts with the help of a little gravel and some stone enables them
+to give any direction which they wish to the water. These two weirs
+being placed near to each other, one for the purpose of catching the
+fish as they ascend, the other as they go down the river, is provided
+with two baskets made in the form already described, and which are
+placed at the apertures of the weir. After examining these curious
+objects, he returned to the lodges, and soon passed the river to the
+left, where an Indian brought him a tomahawk which he said he had found
+in the grass, near the lodge where captain Lewis had staid on his first
+visit to the village. This was a tomahawk which had been missed at the
+time, and supposed to be stolen; it was however the only article which
+had been lost in our intercourse with the nation, and as even that was
+returned the inference is highly honourable to the integrity of the
+Shoshonees. On leaving the lodges captain Clarke crossed to the left
+side of the river, and despatched five men to the forks of it, in search
+of the man left behind yesterday, who procured a horse and passed by
+another road as they learnt, to the forks. At the distance of fourteen
+miles they killed a very large salmon, two and a half feet long, in a
+creek six miles below the forks: and after travelling about twenty miles
+through the valley, following the course of the river, which runs nearly
+northwest, halted in a small meadow on the right side, under a cliff of
+rocks. Here they were joined by the five men who had gone in quest of
+Crusatte. They had been to the forks of the river, where the natives
+resort in great numbers for the purpose of gigging fish, of which they
+made our men a present of five fresh salmon. In addition to this food,
+one deer was killed to-day. The western branch of this river is much
+larger than the eastern, and after we passed the junction we found the
+river about one hundred yards in width, rapid and shoaly, but containing
+only a small quantity of timber. As captain Lewis was the first white
+man who visited its waters, captain Clarke gave it the name of Lewis's
+river. The low grounds through which he had passed to-day were rich and
+wide, but at his camp this evening the hills begin to assume a
+formidable aspect. The cliff under which he lay is of a reddish brown
+colour, the rocks which have fallen from it are a dark brown flintstone.
+Near the place are gullies of white sandstone, and quantities of a fine
+sand, of a snowy whiteness: the mountains on each side are high and
+rugged, with some pine trees scattered over them.
+
+Thursday 22. He soon began to perceive that the Indian accounts had not
+exaggerated: at the distance of a mile he passed a small creek, and the
+points of four mountains, which were rocky, and so high that it seemed
+almost impossible to cross them with horses. The road lay over the sharp
+fragments of rocks which had fallen from the mountains, and were strewed
+in heaps for miles together, yet the horses altogether unshod,
+travelled across them as fast as the men, and without detaining them a
+moment. They passed two bold-running streams, and reached the entrance
+of a small river, where a few Indian families resided. They had not been
+previously acquainted with the arrival of the whites, the guide was
+behind, and the wood so thick that we came upon them unobserved, till at
+a very short distance. As soon as they saw us, the women and children
+fled in great consternation; the men offered us every thing they had,
+the fish on the scaffolds, the dried berries and the collars of elk's
+tushes worn by the children. We took only a small quantity of the food,
+and gave them in return some small articles which conduced very much to
+pacify them. The guide now coming up, explained to them who we were, and
+the object of our visit, which seemed to relieve the fears, but still a
+number of the women and children did not recover from their fright, but
+cryed during our stay, which lasted about an hour. The guide, whom we
+found a very intelligent friendly old man, informed us that up this
+river there was a road which led over the mountains to the Missouri. On
+resuming his route, he went along the steep side of a mountain about
+three miles, and then reached the river near a small island, at the
+lower part of which he encamped; he here attempted to gig some fish, but
+could only obtain one small salmon. The river is here shoal and rapid,
+with many rocks scattered in various directions through its bed. On the
+sides of the mountains are some scattered pines, and of those on the
+left the tops are covered with them; there are however but few in the
+low grounds through which they passed, indeed they have seen only a
+single tree fit to make a canoe, and even that was small. The country
+has an abundant growth of berries, and we met several women and children
+gathering them who bestowed them upon us with great liberality. Among
+the woods captain Clarke observed a species of woodpecker, the beak and
+tail of which were white, the wings black, and every other part of the
+body of a dark brown; its size was that of the robin, and it fed on the
+seeds of the pine.
+
+Friday 23. Captain Clarke set off very early, but as his route lay along
+the steep side of a mountain, over irregular and broken masses of rocks,
+which wounded the horses' feet, he was obliged to proceed slowly. At the
+distance of four miles he reached the river, but the rocks here became
+so steep, and projected so far into the river, that there was no mode of
+passing, except through the water. This he did for some distance, though
+the river was very rapid, and so deep that they were forced to swim
+their horses. After following the edge of the water for about a mile
+under this steep cliff, he reached a small meadow, below which the whole
+current of the river beat against the right shore on which he was, and
+which was formed of a solid rock perfectly inaccessible to horses. Here
+too, the little track which he had been pursuing terminated. He
+therefore resolved to leave the horses and the greater part of the men
+at this place, and examine the river still further, in order to
+determine if there were any possibility of descending it in canoes.
+Having killed nothing except a single goose to-day, and the whole of our
+provision being consumed last evening, it was by no means advisable to
+remain any length of time where they were. He now directed the men to
+fish and hunt at this place till his return, and then with his guide and
+three men he proceeded, clambering over immense rocks, and along the
+side of lofty precipices which bordered the river, when at about twelve
+miles distance he reached a small meadow, the first he had seen on the
+river since he left his party. A little below this meadow, a large creek
+twelve yards wide, and of some depth, discharges itself from the north.
+Here were some recent signs of an Indian encampment, and the tracks of a
+number of horses, who must have come along a plain Indian path, which he
+now saw following the course of the creek. This stream his guide said
+led towards a large river running to the north, and was frequented by
+another nation for the purpose of catching fish. He remained here two
+hours, and having taken some small fish, made a dinner on them with the
+addition of a few berries. From the place where he had left the party,
+to the mouth of this creek, it presents one continued rapid, in which
+are five shoals, neither of which could be passed with loaded canoes;
+and the baggage must therefore be transported for a considerable
+distance over the steep mountains, where it would be impossible to
+employ horses for the relief of the men. Even the empty canoes must be
+let down the rapids by means of cords, and not even in that way without
+great risk both to the canoes as well as to the men. At one of these
+shoals, indeed the rocks rise so perpendicularly from the water as to
+leave no hope of a passage or even a portage without great labour in
+removing rocks, and in some instances cutting away the earth. To
+surmount these difficulties would exhaust the strength of the party, and
+what is equally discouraging would waste our time and consume our
+provisions, of neither of which have we much to spare. The season is now
+far advanced, and the Indians tell us we shall shortly have snow: the
+salmon too have so far declined that the natives themselves are
+hastening from the country, and not an animal of any kind larger than a
+pheasant or a squirrel, and of even these a few only will then be seen
+in this part of the mountains: after which we shall be obliged to rely
+on our own stock of provisions, which will not support us more than ten
+days. These circumstances combine to render a passage by water
+impracticable in our present situation. To descend the course of the
+river on horseback is the other alternative, and scarcely a more
+inviting one. The river is so deep that there are only a few places
+where it can be forded, and the rocks approach so near the water as to
+render it impossible to make a route along the waters' edge. In crossing
+the mountains themselves we should have to encounter, besides their
+steepness, one barren surface of broken masses of rock, down which in
+certain seasons the torrents sweep vast quantities of stone into the
+river. These rocks are of a whitish brown, and towards the base of a
+gray colour, and so hard, that on striking them with steel, they yield a
+fire like flint. This sombre appearance is in some places scarcely
+relieved by a single tree, though near the river and on the creeks there
+is more timber, among which are some tall pine: several of these might
+be made into canoes, and by lashing two of them together, one of
+tolerable size might be formed.
+
+After dinner he continued his route, and at the distance of half a mile
+passed another creek about five yards wide. Here his guide informed him
+that by ascending the creek for some distance he would have a better
+road, and cut off a considerable bend of the river towards the south. He
+therefore pursued a well-beaten Indian track up this creek for about six
+miles, when leaving the creek to the right he passed over a ridge, and
+after walking a mile again met the river, where it flows through a
+meadow of about eighty acres in extent. This they passed and then
+ascended a high and steep point of a mountain, from which the guide now
+pointed out where the river broke through the mountains about twenty
+miles distant. Near the base of the mountains a small river falls in
+from the south: this view was terminated by one of the loftiest
+mountains captain Clarke had ever seen, which was perfectly covered with
+snow. Towards this formidable barrier the river went directly on, and
+there it was, as the guide observed, that the difficulties and dangers
+of which he and Cameahwait had spoken commenced. After reaching the
+mountain, he said, the river continues its course towards the north for
+many miles, between high perpendicular rocks, which were scattered
+through its bed: it then penetrated the mountain through a narrow gap,
+on each side of which arose perpendicularly a rock as high as the top of
+the mountain before them; that the river then made a bend which
+concealed its future course from view, and as it was alike impossible
+to descend the river or clamber over that vast mountain, eternally
+covered with snow, neither he nor any of his nation had ever been lower
+than at a place where they could see the gap made by the river on
+entering the mountain. To that place he said he would conduct captain
+Clarke if he desired it by the next evening. But he was in need of no
+further evidence to convince him of the utter impracticability of the
+route before him. He had already witnessed the difficulties of part of
+the road, yet after all these dangers his guide, whose intelligence and
+fidelity he could not doubt, now assured him that the difficulties were
+only commencing, and what he saw before him too clearly convinced him of
+the Indian's veracity. He therefore determined to abandon this route,
+and returned to the upper part of the last creek we had passed, and
+reaching it an hour after dark encamped for the night: on this creek he
+had seen in the morning an Indian road coming in from the north.
+Disappointed in finding a route by water, captain Clarke now questioned
+his guide more particularly as to the direction of this road which he
+seemed to understand perfectly. He drew a map on the sand, and
+represented this road as well as that we passed yesterday on Berry creek
+as both leading towards two forks of the same great river, where resided
+a nation called Tushepaws, who having no salmon on their river, came by
+these roads to the fish weirs on Lewis's river. He had himself been
+among these Tushepaws, and having once accompanied them on a fishing
+party to another river he had there seen Indians who had come across the
+rocky mountains. After a great deal of conversation, or rather signs,
+and a second and more particular map from his guide, captain Clarke felt
+persuaded that his guide knew of a road from the Shoshonee village they
+had left, to the great river to the north, without coming so low down as
+this on a route impracticable for horses. He was desirous of hastening
+his return, and therefore set out early,
+
+Saturday 24, and after descending the creek to the river, stopped to
+breakfast on berries in the meadow above the second creek. He then went
+on, but unfortunately fell from a rock and injured his leg very much; he
+however walked on as rapidly as he could, and at four in the afternoon
+rejoined his men. During his absence they had killed one of the mountain
+cocks, a few pheasants, and some small fish, on which with haws and
+serviceberries they had subsisted. Captain Clarke immediately sent
+forward a man on horseback with a note to captain Lewis, apprising him
+of the result of his inquiries, and late in the afternoon set out with
+the rest of the party and encamped at the distance of two miles. The men
+were much disheartened at the bad prospect of escaping from the
+mountains, and having nothing to eat but a few berries which have made
+several of them sick, they all passed a disagreeable night, which was
+rendered more uncomfortable by a heavy dew.
+
+Sunday 25. The want of provisions urged captain Clarke to return as soon
+as possible; he therefore set out early, and halted an hour in passing
+the Indian camp near the fish weirs. These people treated them with
+great kindness, and though poor and dirty they willingly give what
+little they possess; they gave the whole party boiled salmon and dried
+berries, which were not however in sufficient quantities to appease
+their hunger. They soon resumed their old road, but as the abstinence or
+strange diet had given one of the men a very severe illness, they were
+detained very much on his account, and it was not till late in the day
+they reached the cliff under which they had encamped on the
+twenty-first. They immediately began to fish and hunt, in order to
+procure a meal. We caught several small fish, and by means of our guide,
+obtained two salmon from a small party of women and children, who, with
+one man, were going below to gather berries. This supplied us with about
+half a meal, but after dark we were regaled with a beaver which one of
+the hunters brought in. The other game seen in the course of the day
+were one deer, and a party of elk among the pines on the sides of the
+mountains.
+
+Monday 26. The morning was fine, and three men were despatched ahead to
+hunt, while the rest were detained until nine o'clock, in order to
+retake some horses which had strayed away during the night. They then
+proceeded along the route by the forks of the river, till they reached
+the lower Indian camp where they first were when we met them. The whole
+camp immediately flocked around him with great appearance of cordiality,
+but all the spare food of the village did not amount to more than two
+salmon, which they gave to captain Clarke, who distributed them among
+his men. The hunters had not been able to kill any thing, nor had
+captain Clarke or the greater part of the men any food during the
+twenty-four hours, till towards evening one of them shot a salmon in the
+river, and a few small fish were caught, which furnished them with a
+scanty meal. The only animals they had seen were a few pigeons, some
+very wild hares, a great number of the large black grasshopper, and a
+quantify of ground lizards.
+
+Tuesday 27. The men, who were engaged last night in mending their
+moccasins, all except one, went out hunting, but no game was to be
+procured. One of the men however killed a small salmon, and the Indians
+made a present of another, on which the whole party made a very slight
+breakfast. These Indians, to whom this life is familiar, seem contented,
+although they depend for subsistence on the scanty productions of the
+fishery. But our men who are used to hardships, but have been accustomed
+to have the first wants of nature regularly supplied, feel very sensibly
+their wretched situation; their strength is wasting away; they begin to
+express their apprehensions of being without food in a country perfectly
+destitute of any means of supporting life, except a few fish. In the
+course of the day an Indian brought into the camp five salmon, two of
+which captain Clarke bought, and made a supper for the party.
+
+Wednesday 28. There was a frost again this morning. The Indians gave
+the party two salmon out of several which they caught in their traps,
+and having purchased two more, the party was enabled to subsist on them
+during the day. A camp of about forty Indians from the west fork passed
+us to-day, on their route to the eastward. Our prospect of provisions is
+getting worse every day: the hunters who had ranged through the country
+in every direction where game might be reasonably expected, have seen
+nothing. The fishery is scarcely more productive, for an Indian who was
+out all day with his gig killed only one salmon. Besides the four fish
+procured from the Indians, captain Clarke obtained some fishroe in
+exchange for three small fish-hooks, the use of which he taught them,
+and which they very readily comprehended. All the men who are not
+engaged in hunting, are occupied in making pack-saddles for the horses
+which captain Lewis informed us he had bought.
+
+August 20. Two hunters were despatched early in the morning, but they
+returned without killing any thing, and the only game we procured was a
+beaver, who was caught last night in a trap which he carried off two
+miles before he was found. The fur of this animal is as good as any we
+have ever seen, nor does it in fact appear to be ever out of season on
+the upper branches of the Missouri. This beaver, with several dozen of
+fine trout, gave us a plentiful subsistence for the day. The party were
+occupied chiefly in making pack-saddles, in the manufacture of which we
+supply the place of nails and boards, by substituting for the first
+thongs of raw hide, which answer very well; and for boards we use the
+handles of our oars, and the plank of some boxes, the contents of which
+we empty into sacks of raw hides made for the purpose. The Indians who
+visit us behave with the greatest decorum, and the women are busily
+engaged in making and mending the moccasins of the party. As we had
+still some superfluous baggage which would be too heavy to carry across
+the mountains, it became necessary to make a cache or deposit. For this
+purpose we selected a spot on the bank of the river, three quarters of a
+mile below the camp, and three men were set to dig it, with a sentinel
+in the neighbourhood, who was ordered if the natives were to straggle
+that way, to fire a signal for the workmen to desist and separate.
+Towards evening the cache was completed without being perceived by the
+Indians, and the packages prepared for deposit.
+
+
+
+
+                               CHAPTER XVI.
+
+     Contest between Drewyer and a Shoshonee--The fidelity and honour of
+     that tribe--The party set out on their journey--The conduct of
+     Cameahwait reproved, and himself reconciled--The easy parturition
+     of the Shoshonee women--History of this nation--Their terror of the
+     Pawkees--Their government and family economy in their treatment of
+     their women--Their complaints of Spanish treachery--Description of
+     their weapons of warfare--Their curious mode of making a
+     shield--The caparison of their horses--The dress of the men and of
+     the women particularly described--Their mode of acquiring new
+     names.
+
+
+Wednesday, August 21. The weather was very cold; the water which stood
+in the vessels exposed to the air being covered with ice a quarter of an
+inch thick: the ink freezes in the pen, and the low grounds are
+perfectly whitened with frost: after this the day proved excessively
+warm. The party were engaged in their usual occupations, and completed
+twenty saddles with the necessary harness, all prepared to set off as
+soon as the Indians should arrive. Our two hunters who were despatched
+early in the morning have not returned, so that we were obliged to
+encroach on our pork and corn, which we consider as the last resource
+when our casual supplies of game fail. After dark we carried our baggage
+to the cache, and deposited what we thought too cumbrous to carry with
+us: a small assortment of medicines, and all the specimens of plants,
+seeds, and minerals, collected since leaving the falls of the Missouri.
+Late at night Drewyer, one of the hunters, returned with a fawn and a
+considerable quantity of Indian plunder, which he had taken by way of
+reprisal. While hunting this morning in the Shoshonee cove, he came
+suddenly upon an Indian camp, at which were an old man, a young one,
+three women, and a boy: they showed no surprise at the sight of him and
+he therefore rode up to them, and after turning his horse loose to
+graze sat down and began to converse with them by signs. They had just
+finished a repast on some roots, and in about twenty minutes one of the
+women spoke to the rest of the party, who immediately went out,
+collected their horses and began to saddle them. Having rested himself,
+Drewyer thought that he would continue his hunt, and rising went to
+catch his horse who was at a short distance, forgetting at the moment to
+take up his rifle. He had scarcely gone more than fifty paces when the
+Indians mounted their horses, the young man snatched up the rifle, and
+leaving all their baggage, whipt their horses, and set off at full speed
+towards the passes of the mountains: Drewyer instantly jumped on his
+horse and pursued them. After running about ten miles the horses of the
+women nearly gave out, and the women finding Drewyer gain on them raised
+dreadful cries, which induced the young man to slacken his pace, and
+being mounted on a very fleet horse rode round them at a short distance.
+Drewyer now came up with the women, and by signs persuaded them that he
+did not mean to hurt them: they then stopped, and as the young man came
+towards them Drewyer asked him for his rifle, but the only part of the
+answer which he understood was Pahkee, the name by which they call their
+enemies, the Minnetarees of fort de Prairie. While they were thus
+engaged in talking, Drewyer watched his opportunity, and seeing the
+Indian off his guard, galloped up to him and seized his rifle: the
+Indian struggled for some time, but finding Drewyer getting too strong
+for him, had the presence of mind to open the pan and let the priming
+fall out; he then let go his hold, and giving his horse the whip escaped
+at full speed, leaving the women to the mercy of the conqueror. Drewyer
+then returned to where he had first seen them, where he found that their
+baggage had been left behind, and brought it to camp with him.
+
+Thursday, 22. This morning early two men were sent to complete the
+covering of the cache, which could not be so perfectly done during the
+night as to elude the search of the Indians. On examining the spoils
+which Drewyer had obtained, they were found to consist of several
+dressed and undressed skins; two bags wove with the bark of the silk
+grass, each containing a bushel of dried serviceberries, and about the
+same quantity of roots; an instrument made of bone for manufacturing the
+flints into heads for arrows; and a number of flints themselves: these
+were much of the same colour and nearly as transparent as common black
+glass, and when cut detached itself into flakes, leaving a very sharp
+edge.
+
+The roots were of three kinds, and folded separate from each in hides of
+buffaloe made into parchment. The first is a fusiform root six inches
+long, and about the size of a man's finger at the largest end, with
+radicles larger than is usual in roots of the fusiform sort: the rind is
+white and thin, the body is also white, mealy, and easily reducible, by
+pounding, to a substance resembling flour, like which it thickens by
+boiling, and is of an agreeable flavour: it is eaten frequently in its
+raw state either green or dried. The second species was much mutilated,
+but appeared to be fibrous; it is of a cylindrical form about the size
+of a small quill, hard and brittle. A part of the rind which had not
+been detached in the preparation was hard and black, but the rest of the
+root was perfectly white; this the Indiana informed us was always boiled
+before eating; and on making the experiment we found that it became
+perfectly soft, but had a bitter taste, which was nauseous to our taste,
+but which the Indians seemed to relish; for on giving the roots to them
+they were very heartily swallowed.
+
+The third species was a small nut about the size of a nutmeg, of an
+irregularly rounded form, something like the smallest of the Jerusalem
+artichokes, which, on boiling, we found them to resemble also in
+flavour, and is certainly the best root we have seen in use among the
+Indians. On inquiring of the Indians from what plant these roots were
+procured, they informed us that none of them grew near this place.
+
+The men were chiefly employed in dressing the skins belonging to the
+party who accompanied captain Clarke. About eleven o'clock Chaboneau and
+his wife returned with Cameahwait, accompanied by about fifty men with
+their women and children. After they had encamped near us and turned
+loose their horses, we called a council of all the chiefs and warriors
+and addressed them in a speech; additional presents were then
+distributed, particularly to the two second chiefs, who had agreeably to
+their promises exerted themselves in our favour. The council was then
+adjourned, and all the Indians were treated with an abundant meal of
+boiled Indian corn and beans. The poor wretches, who had no animal food
+and scarcely any thing but a few fish, had been almost starved, and
+received this new luxury with great thankfulness. Out of compliment to
+the chief we gave him a few dried squashes which we had brought from the
+Mandans, and he declared it was the best food he had ever tasted except
+sugar, a small lump of which he had received from his sister: he now
+declared how happy they should all be to live in a country which
+produced so many good things, and we told him that it would not be long
+before the white men would put it in their power to live below the
+mountains, where they might themselves cultivate all these kinds of food
+instead of wandering in the mountains. He appeared to be much pleased
+with this information, and the whole party being now in excellent temper
+after their repast, we began our purchase of horses. We soon obtained
+five very good ones on very reasonable terms; that is, by giving for
+each merchandise which cost us originally about six dollars. We have
+again to admire the perfect decency and propriety of their conduct; for
+although so numerous, they do not attempt to crowd round our camp or
+take any thing which they see lying about, and whenever they borrow
+knives or kettles or any other article from the men, they return them
+with great fidelity.
+
+Towards evening we formed a drag of bushes, and in about two hours
+caught five hundred and twenty-eight very good fish most of them large
+trout. Among them we observed for the first time ten or twelve trout of
+a white or silvery colour, except on the back and head where they are of
+a bluish cast: in appearance and shape they resemble exactly the
+speckled trout, except that they are not quite so large, though the
+scales are much larger, and the flavour equally good. The greater part
+of the fish was distributed among the Indians.
+
+Friday 28. Our visitors seem to depend wholly on us for food, and as the
+state of our provisions obliges us to be careful of our remaining stock
+of corn and flour, this was an additional reason for urging our
+departure; but Cameahwait requested us to wait till the arrival of
+another party of his nation who were expected to-day. Knowing that it
+would be in vain to oppose his wish, we consented, and two hunters were
+sent out with orders to go further up the southeast fork than they had
+hitherto been. At the same time the chief was informed of the low state
+of our provisions, and advised to send out his young men to hunt. This
+he recommended them to do, and most of them set out: we then sunk our
+canoes by means of stones to the bottom of the river, a situation which
+better than any other secured them against the effects of the high
+waters, and the frequent fires of the plains; the Indians having
+promised not to disturb them during our absence, a promise we believe
+the more readily, as they are almost too lazy to take the trouble of
+raising them for fire-wood. We were desirous of purchasing some more
+horses, but they declined selling any until we reached their camp in the
+mountains. Soon after starting the Indian hunters discovered a mule
+buck, and twelve of their horsemen pursued it, for four miles. We saw
+the chase, which was very entertaining, and at length they rode it down
+and killed it. This mule buck was the largest deer of any kind we have
+seen, being nearly as large as a doe elk. Besides this they brought in
+another deer and three goats; but instead of a general distribution of
+the meat, and such as we have hitherto seen among all tribes of Indians,
+we observed that some families had a large share, while others received
+none. On inquiring of Cameahwait the reason of this custom, he said that
+meat among them was scarce; that each hunter reserved what he killed for
+the use of himself and his own family, none of the rest having any claim
+on what he chose to keep. Our hunters returned soon after with two mule
+deer and three common deer, three of which we distributed among the
+families who had received none of the game of their own hunters. About
+three o'clock the expected party consisting of fifty men, women and
+children arrived. We now learnt that most of the Indians were on their
+way down the valley towards the buffaloe country, and some anxiety to
+accompany them appeared to prevail among those who had promised to
+assist us in crossing the mountains. We ourselves were not without some
+apprehension that they might leave us, but as they continued to say that
+they would return with us nothing was said upon the subject. We were,
+however, resolved to move early in the morning; and therefore despatched
+two men to hunt in the cove and leave the game on the route we should
+pass to-morrow.
+
+Saturday 24. As the Indians who arrived yesterday had a number of spare
+horses, we thought it probable they might be willing to dispose of them,
+and desired the chief to speak to them for that purpose. They declined
+giving any positive answer, but requested to see the goods which we
+proposed to exchange. We then produced some battle-axes which we had
+made at fort Mandan, and a quantity of knives; with both of which they
+appeared very much pleased; and we were soon able to purchase three
+horses by giving for each an axe, a knife, a hankerchief and a little
+paint. To this we were obliged to add a second knife, a shirt, a
+handkerchief and a pair of leggings; and such is the estimation in which
+those animals are held, that even at this price, which was double that
+for a horse, the fellow who sold him took upon himself great merit in
+having given away a mule to us. They now said that they had no more
+horses for sale, and as we had now nine of our own, two hired horses,
+and a mule, we began loading them as heavily as was prudent, and placing
+the rest on the shoulders of the Indian women, left our camp at twelve
+o'clock. We were all on foot, except Sacajawea, for whom her husband had
+purchased a horse with some articles which we gave him for that purpose;
+an Indian however had the politeness to offer captain Lewis one of his
+horses to ride, which he accepted in order better to direct the march of
+the party. We crossed the river below the forks, directing our course
+towards the cove by the route already passed, and had just reached the
+lower part of the cove when an Indian rode up to captain Lewis to inform
+him that one of his men was very sick, and unable to come on. The party
+was immediately halted at a run which falls into the creek on the left,
+and captain Lewis rode back two miles, and found Wiser severely
+afflicted with the colic: by giving him some of the essence of
+peppermint and laudanum, he recovered sufficiently to ride the horse of
+captain Lewis, who then rejoined the party on foot. When he arrived he
+found that the Indians who had been impatiently expecting his return, at
+last unloaded their horses and turned them loose, and had now made their
+camp for the night. It would have been fruitless to remonstrate, and not
+prudent to excite any irritation, and therefore, although the sun was
+still high, and we had made only six miles, we thought it best to remain
+with them: after we had encamped there fell a slight shower of rain. One
+of the men caught several fine trout; but Drewyer had been sent out to
+hunt without having killed any thing. We therefore gave a little corn to
+those of the Indians who were actually engaged in carrying our baggage,
+and who had absolutely nothing to eat. We also advised Cameahwait, as we
+could not supply all his people with provisions, to recommend to all who
+were not assisting us, to go on before us to their camp. This he did:
+but in the morning,
+
+Sunday 25, a few only followed his advice, the rest accompanying us at
+some distance on each side. We set out at sunrise and after going
+seventeen miles halted for dinner within two miles of the narrow pass in
+the mountains. The Indians who were on the sides of our party had
+started some antelopes, but were obliged after a pursuit of several
+hours to abandon the chase: our hunters had in the meantime brought in
+three deer, the greater part of which was distributed among the Indians.
+Whilst at dinner we learnt by means of Sacajawea, that the young men who
+left us this morning, carried a request from the chief, that the village
+would break up its encampment and meet this party to-morrow, when they
+would all go down the Missouri into the buffaloe country. Alarmed at
+this new caprice of the Indians which, if not counteracted, threatened
+to leave ourselves and our baggage on the mountains, or even if we
+reached the waters of the Columbia, prevent our obtaining horses to go
+on further, captain Lewis immediately called the three chiefs together.
+After smoking a pipe he asked them if they were men of their words, and
+if we can rely on their promises. They readily answered in the
+affirmative. He then asked, if they had not agreed to assist us in
+carrying our baggage over the mountains. To this they also answered yes;
+and why then, said he, have you requested your people to meet us
+to-morrow, where it will be impossible for us to trade for horses, as
+you promised we should. If, he continued, you had not promised to help
+us in transporting our goods over the mountains, we should not have
+attempted it, but have returned down the river, after which no white men
+would ever have come into your country. If you wish the whites to be
+your friends, and to bring you arms and protect you from your enemies,
+you should never promise what you do not mean to perform: when I first
+met you, you doubted what I said, yet you afterwards saw that I told
+you the truth. How therefore can you doubt what I now tell you; you see
+that I have divided amongst you the meat which my hunters kill, and I
+promise to give all who assist us a share of whatever we have to eat. If
+therefore you intend to keep your promise, send one of the young men
+immediately to order the people to remain at the village till we arrive.
+
+The two inferior chiefs then said, that they had wished to keep their
+words and to assist us; that they had not sent for the people, but on
+the contrary had disapproved of the measure which was done wholly by the
+first chief. Cameahwait remained silent for some time: at last he said
+that he knew he had done wrong, but that seeing his people all in want
+of provisions, he had wished to hasten their departure for the country
+where their wants might be supplied. He however now declared, that
+having passed his word he would never violate it, and counter orders
+were immediately sent to the village by a young man, to whom we gave a
+handkerchief in order to ensure despatch and fidelity.
+
+This difficulty being now adjusted, our march was resumed with an
+unusual degree of alacrity on the part of the Indians. We passed a spot,
+where six years ago the Shoshonees* suffered a very severe defeat from
+the Minnetarees; and late in the evening we reached the upper part of
+the cove where the creek enters the mountains. The part of the cove on
+the northeast side of the creek has lately been burnt, most probably as
+a signal on some occasion. Here we were joined by our hunters with a
+single deer, which captain Lewis gave, as a proof of his sincerity, to
+the women and children, and remained supperless himself. As we came
+along we observed several large hares, some ducks, and many of the cock
+of the plains: in the low grounds of the cove were also considerable
+quantities of wild onions.
+
+Monday 26. The morning was excessively cold, and the ice in our vessels
+was nearly a quarter of an inch in thickness: we set out at sunrise, and
+soon reached the fountain of the Missouri, where we halted for a few
+minutes, and then crossing the dividing ridge reached the fine spring
+where captain Lewis had slept on the 12th in his first excursion to the
+Shoshonee camp. The grass on the hill sides is perfectly dry and parched
+by the sun, but near the spring was a fine green grass: we therefore
+halted for dinner and turned our horses to graze. To each of the Indians
+who were engaged in carrying our baggage was distributed a pint of corn,
+which they parched, then pounded, and made a sort of soup. One of the
+women who had been leading two of our pack horses halted at a rivulet
+about a mile behind, and sent on the two horses by a female friend: on
+inquiring of Cameahwait the cause of her detention, he answered with
+great appearance of unconcern, that she had just stopped to lie in, but
+would soon overtake us. In fact we were astonished to see her in about
+an hour's time come on with her new born infant and pass us on her way
+to the camp, apparently in perfect health.
+
+This wonderful facility with which the Indian women bring forth their
+children, seems rather some benevolent gift of nature, in exempting them
+from pains which their savage state would render doubly grievous, than
+any result of habit. If as has been imagined, a pure dry air or a cold
+and elevated country are obstacles to easy delivery, every difficulty
+incident to that operation might be expected in this part of the
+continent; nor can another reason, the habit of carrying heavy burthens
+during pregnancy, be at all applicable to the Shoshonee women, who
+rarely carry any burdens, since their nation possesses an abundance of
+horses. We have indeed been several times informed by those conversant
+with Indian manners, and who asserted their knowledge of the fact, that
+Indian women pregnant by white men experience more difficulty in
+child-birth than when the father is an Indian. If this account be true,
+it may contribute to strengthen the belief, that the easy delivery of
+the Indian women is wholly constitutional.
+
+The tops of the high irregular mountains to the westward are still
+entirely covered with snow; and the coolness which the air acquires in
+passing them, is a very agreeable relief from the heat, which has dried
+up the herbage on the sides of the hills. While we stopped, the women
+were busily employed in collecting the root of a plant with which they
+feed their children, who like their mothers are nearly half starved and
+in a wretched condition. It is a species of fennel which grows in the
+moist grounds; the radix is of the knob kind, of a long ovate form,
+terminating in a single radicle, the whole being three or four inches
+long, and the thickest part about the size of a man's little finger:
+when fresh, it is white, firm, and crisp; and when dried and pounded
+makes a fine white meal. Its flavour is not unlike that of aniseed,
+though less pungent. From one to four of these knobbed roots are
+attached to a single stem which rises to the height of three or four
+feet, and is jointed, smooth, cylindric, and has several small
+peduncles, one at each joint above the sheathing leaf. Its colour is a
+deep green, as is also that of the leaf, which is sheathing, sessile,
+and _polipartite_, the divisions being long and narrow. The flowers,
+which are now in bloom, are small and numerous, with white and
+umbellifferous petals: there are no root leaves. As soon as the seeds
+have matured, the roots of the present year as well as the stem decline,
+and are renewed in the succeeding spring from the little knot which
+unites the roots. The sunflower is also abundant here, and the seeds,
+which are now ripe, are gathered in considerable quantities, and after
+being pounded and rubbed between smooth stones, form a kind of meal,
+which is a favourite dish among the Indians.
+
+After dinner we continued our route and were soon met by a party of
+young men on horseback, who turned with us and went to the village. As
+soon as we were within sight of it, Cameahwait requested that we would
+discharge our guns; the men were therefore drawn up in a single rank,
+and gave a running fire of two rounds, to the great satisfaction of the
+Indians. We then proceeded to the encampment where we arrived about six
+o'clock, and were conducted to the leathern lodge in the centre of
+thirty-two others made of brush. The baggage was arranged near this
+tent, which captain Lewis occupied, and surrounded by those of the men
+so as to secure it from pillage. This camp was in a beautiful smooth
+meadow near the river, and about three miles above their camp when we
+first visited the Indians. We here found Colter, who had been sent by
+captain Clarke with a note apprising us that there were no hopes of a
+passage by water, and that the most practicable route seemed to be that
+mentioned by his guide, towards the north. Whatever road we meant to
+take, it was now necessary to provide ourselves with horses; we
+therefore informed Cameahwait of our intention of going to the great
+river beyond the mountains, and that we would wish to purchase twenty
+more horses: he said the Minnetarees had stolen a great number of their
+horses this spring, but he still hoped they could spare us that number.
+In order not to loose the present favourable moment, and to keep the
+Indians as cheerful as possible, the violins were brought out and our
+men danced to the great diversion of the Indians. This mirth was the
+more welcome because our situation was not precisely that which would
+most dispose us for gayety, for we have only a little parched corn to
+eat, and our means of subsistence or of success, depend on the wavering
+temper of the natives, who may change their minds to-morrow.
+
+The Shoshonees are a small tribe of the nation called Snake Indians, a
+vague denomination, which embraces at once the inhabitants of the
+southern parts of the Rocky mountains and of the plains on each side.
+The Shoshonees with whom we now are, amount to about one hundred
+warriors, and three times that number of women and children. Within
+their own recollection they formerly lived in the plains, but they have
+been driven into the mountains by the Pawkees, or the roving Indians of
+the Sascatchawain, and are now obliged to visit occasionally, and by
+stealth, the country of their ancestors. Their lives are indeed
+migratory. From the middle of May to the beginning of September, they
+reside on the waters of the Columbia, where they consider themselves
+perfectly secure from the Pawkees who have never yet found their way to
+that retreat. During this time they subsist chiefly on salmon, and as
+that fish disappears on the approach of autumn, they are obliged to seek
+subsistence elsewhere. They then cross the ridge to the waters of the
+Missouri, down which they proceed slowly and cautiously, till they are
+joined near the three forks by other bands, either of their own nation
+or of the Flatheads, with whom they associate against the common enemy.
+Being now strong in numbers, they venture to hunt buffaloe in the plains
+eastward of the mountains, near which they spend the winter, till the
+return of the salmon invites them to the Columbia. But such is their
+terror of the Pawkees, that as long as they can obtain the scantiest
+subsistence, they do not leave the interior of the mountains; and as
+soon as they collect a large stock of dried meat, they again retreat,
+and thus alternately obtaining their food at the hazard of their lives,
+and hiding themselves to consume it. In this loose and wandering
+existence they suffer the extremes of want; for two thirds of the year
+they are forced to live in the mountains, passing whole weeks without
+meat, and with nothing to eat but a few fish and roots. Nor can any
+thing be imagined more wretched than their condition at the present
+time, when the salmon is fast retiring, when roots are becoming scarce,
+and they have not yet acquired strength to hazard an encounter with
+their enemies. So insensible are they however to these calamities, that
+the Shoshonees are not only cheerful but even gay; and their character,
+which is more interesting than that of any Indians we have seen, has in
+it much of the dignity of misfortune. In their intercourse with
+strangers they are frank and communicative, in their dealings perfectly
+fair, nor have we had during our stay with them, any reason to suspect
+that the display of all our new and valuable wealth, has tempted them
+into a single act of dishonesty. While they have generally shared with
+us the little they possess, they have always abstained from begging any
+thing from us. With their liveliness of temper, they are fond of gaudy
+dresses, and of all sorts of amusements, particularly to games of
+hazard; and like most Indians fond of boasting of their own warlike
+exploits, whether real or fictitious. In their conduct towards
+ourselves, they were kind and obliging, and though on one occasion they
+seemed willing to neglect us, yet we scarcely knew how to blame the
+treatment by which we suffered, when we recollected how few civilized
+chiefs would have hazarded the comforts or the subsistence of their
+people for the sake of a few strangers. This manliness of character may
+cause or it may be formed by the nature of their government, which is
+perfectly free from any restraint. Each individual is his own master,
+and the only control to which his conduct is subjected, is the advice of
+a chief supported by his influence over the opinions of the rest of the
+tribe. The chief himself is in fact no more than the most confidential
+person among the warriors, a rank neither distinguished by any external
+honor, nor invested by any ceremony, but gradually acquired from the
+good wishes of his companions and by superior merit. Such an officer has
+therefore strictly no power; he may recommend or advise or influence,
+but his commands have no effect on those who incline to disobey, and who
+may at any time withdraw from their voluntary allegiance. His shadowy
+authority which cannot survive the confidence which supports it, often
+decays with the personal vigour of the chief, or is transferred to some
+more fortunate or favourite hero.
+
+In their domestic economy, the man is equally sovereign. The man is the
+sole proprietor of his wives and daughters, and can barter them away, or
+dispose of them in any manner he may think proper. The children are
+seldom corrected; the boys, particularly, soon become their own
+masters; they are never whipped, for they say that it breaks their
+spirit, and that after being flogged they never recover their
+independence of mind, even when they grow to manhood. A plurality of
+wives is very common; but these are not generally sisters, as among the
+Minnetarees and Mandans, but are purchased of different fathers. The
+infant daughters are often betrothed by the father to men who are grown,
+either for themselves or for their sons, for whom they are desirous of
+providing wives. The compensation to the father is usually made in
+horses or mules; and the girl remains with her parents till the age of
+puberty, which is thirteen or fourteen, when she is surrendered to her
+husband. At the same time the father often makes a present to the
+husband equal to what he had formerly received as the price of his
+daughter, though this return is optional with her parent. Sacajawea had
+been contracted in this way before she was taken prisoner, and when we
+brought her back, her betrothed was still living. Although he was double
+the age of Sacajawea, and had two other wives, he claimed her, but on
+finding that she had a child by her new husband, Chaboneau, he
+relinquished his pretensions and said he did not want her.
+
+The chastity of the women does not appear to be held in much estimation.
+The husband will for a trifling present lend his wife for a night to a
+stranger, and the loan may be protracted by increasing the value of the
+present. Yet strange as it may seem, notwithstanding this facility, any
+connexion of this kind not authorized by the husband, is considered
+highly offensive and quite as disgraceful to his character as the same
+licentiousness in civilized societies. The Shoshonees are not so
+importunate in volunteering the services of their wives as we found the
+Sioux were; and indeed we observed among them some women who appeared to
+be held in more respect than those of any nation we had seen. But the
+mass of the females are condemned, as among all savage nations, to the
+lowest and most laborious drudgery. When the tribe is stationary, they
+collect the roots, and cook; they build the huts, dress the skins and
+make clothing; collect the wood, and assist in taking care of the horses
+on the route; they load the horses and have the charge of all the
+baggage. The only business of the man is to fight; he therefore takes on
+himself the care of his horse, the companion of his warfare; but he will
+descend to no other labour than to hunt and to fish. He would consider
+himself degraded by being compelled to walk any distance; and were he so
+poor as to possess only two horses, he would ride the best of them, and
+leave the other for his wives and children and their baggage; and if he
+has too many wives or too much baggage for the horse, the wives have no
+alternative but to follow him on foot; they are not however often
+reduced to those extremities, for their stock of horses is very ample.
+Notwithstanding their losses this spring they still have at least seven
+hundred, among which are about forty colts, and half that number of
+mules. There are no horses here which can be considered as wild; we have
+seen two only on this side of the Muscleshell river which were without
+owners, and even those although shy, showed every mark of having been
+once in the possession of man. The original stock was procured from the
+Spaniards, but they now raise their own. The horses are generally very
+fine, of a good size, vigorous and patient of fatigue as well as hunger.
+Each warrior has one or two tied to a stake near his hut both day and
+night, so as to be always prepared for action. The mules are obtained in
+the course of trade from the Spaniards, with whose brands several of
+them are marked, or stolen from them by the frontier Indians. They are
+the finest animals of that kind we have ever seen, and at this distance
+from the Spanish colonies are very highly valued. The worst are
+considered as worth the price of two horses, and a good mule cannot be
+obtained for less than three and sometimes four horses.
+
+We also saw a bridle bit, stirrups and several other articles which,
+like the mules, came from the Spanish colonies. The Shoshonees say that
+they can reach those settlements in ten days' march by the route of the
+Yellowstone river; but we readily perceive that the Spaniards are by no
+means favourites. They complain that the Spaniards refuse to let them
+have fire arms under pretence that these dangerous weapons will only
+induce them to kill each other. In the meantime, say the Shoshonees, we
+are left to the mercy of the Minnetarees, who having arms, plunder them
+of their horses, and put them to death without mercy. "But this should
+not be," said Cameahwait fiercely, "if we had guns, instead of hiding
+ourselves in the mountains and living like the bears on roots and
+berries, we would then go down and live in the buffaloe country in spite
+of our enemies, whom we never fear when we meet on equal terms."
+
+As war is the chief occupation, bravery is the first virtue among the
+Shoshonees. None can hope to be distinguished without having given
+proofs of it, nor can there be any preferment, or influence among the
+nation, without some warlike achievement. Those important events which
+give reputation to a warrior, and which entitle him to a new name, are
+killing a white bear, stealing individually the horses of the enemy,
+leading out a party who happen to be successful either in plundering
+horses or destroying the enemy, and lastly scalping a warrior. These
+acts seem of nearly equal dignity, but the last, that of taking an
+enemy's scalp, is an honour quite independent of the act of vanquishing
+him. To kill your adversary is of no importance unless the scalp is
+brought from the field of battle, and were a warrior to slay any number
+of his enemies in action, and others were to obtain the scalps or first
+touch the dead, they would have all the honours, since they have borne
+off the trophy.
+
+Although thus oppressed by the Minnetarees, the Shoshonees are still a
+very military people. Their cold and rugged country inures them to
+fatigue; their long abstinence makes them support the dangers of
+mountain warfare, and worn down as we saw them, by want of sustenance,
+have a look of fierce and adventurous courage. The Shoshonee warrior
+always fights on horseback; he possesses a few bad guns, which are
+reserved exclusively for war, but his common arms are the bow and arrow,
+a shield, a lance and a weapon called by the Chippeways, by whom it was
+formerly used, the poggamoggon. The bow is made of cedar or pine covered
+on the outer side with sinews and glue. It is about two and a half feet
+long, and does not differ in shape from those used by the Sioux, Mandans
+and Minnetarees. Sometimes, however, the bow is made of a single piece
+of the horn of an elk, covered on the back like those of wood with
+sinews and glue, and occasionally ornamented by a strand wrought of
+porcupine quills and sinews, which is wrapped round the horn near its
+two ends. The bows made of the horns of the bighorn, are still more
+prized, and are formed by cementing with glue flat pieces of the horn
+together, covering the back with sinews and glue, and loading the whole
+with an unusual quantity of ornaments. The arrows resemble those of the
+other Indians except in being more slender than any we have seen. They
+are contained, with the implements for striking fire, in a narrow quiver
+formed of different kinds of skin, though that of the otter seems to be
+preferred. It is just long enough to protect the arrows from the
+weather, and is worn on the back by means of a strap passing over the
+right shoulder and under the left arm. The shield is a circular piece of
+buffaloe hide about two feet four or five inches in diameter, ornamented
+with feathers, and a fringe round it of dressed leather, and adorned or
+deformed with paintings of strange figures. The buffaloe hide is
+perfectly proof against any arrow, but in the minds of the Shoshonees,
+its power to protect them is chiefly derived from the virtues which are
+communicated to it by the old men and jugglers. To make a shield is
+indeed one of their most important ceremonies: it begins by a feast to
+which all the warriors, old men and jugglers are invited. After the
+repast a hole is dug in the ground about eighteen inches in depth and of
+the same diameter as the intended shield: into this hole red hot stones
+are thrown and water poured over them, till they emit a very strong* hot
+steam. The buffaloe skin, which must be the entire hide of a male two
+years old, and never suffered to dry since it was taken from the animal,
+is now laid across the hole, with the fleshy side to the ground, and
+stretched in every direction by as many as can take hold of it. As the
+skin becomes heated, the hair separates and is taken off by the hand;
+till at last the skin is contracted into the compass designed for the
+shield. It is then taken off and placed on a hide prepared into
+parchment, and then pounded during the rest of the festival by the bare
+heels of those who are invited to it. This operation sometimes continues
+for several days, after which it is delivered to the proprietor, and
+declared by the old men and jugglers to be a security against arrows;
+and provided the feast has been satisfactory, against even the bullets
+of their enemies. Such is the delusion, that many of the Indians
+implicitly believe that this ceremony has given to the shield
+supernatural powers, and that they have no longer to fear any weapons of
+their enemies.
+
+The paggamoggon is an instrument, consisting of a handle twenty-two
+inches long, made of wood, covered with dressed leather about the size
+of a whip-handle: at one end is a thong of two inches in length, which
+is tied to a round stone weighing two pounds and held in a cover of
+leather: at the other end is a loop of the same material, which is
+passed round the wrist so as to secure the hold of the instrument, with
+which they strike a very severe blow.
+
+Besides these, they have a kind of armour something like a coat of mail,
+which is formed by a great many folds of dressed antelope skins, united
+by means of a mixture of glue and sand. With this they cover their own
+bodies and those of their horses, and find it impervious to the arrow.
+
+The caparison of their horses is a halter and a saddle: the first
+is either a rope of six or seven strands of buffaloe hair platted
+or twisted together, about the size of a man's finger and of great
+strength; or merely a thong of raw hide, made pliant by pounding and
+rubbing; though the first kind is much preferred. The halter is very
+long, and is never taken from the neck of the horse when in constant
+use. One end of it is first tied round the neck in a knot and then
+brought down to the under jaw, round which it is formed into a simple
+noose, passing through the mouth: it is then drawn up on the right side
+and held by the rider in his left hand, while the rest trails after him
+to some distance. At other times the knot is formed at a little distance
+from one of the ends, so as to let that end serve as a bridle, while the
+other trails on the ground. With these cords dangling along side of them
+the horse is put to his full speed without fear of falling, and when he
+is turned to graze the noose is merely taken from his mouth. The saddle
+in formed like the pack-saddles used by the French and Spaniards, of two
+flat thin boards which fit the sides of the horse, and are kept together
+by two cross pieces, one before and the other behind, which rise to
+a considerable height, ending sometimes in a flat point extending
+outwards, and always making the saddle deep and narrow. Under this a
+piece of buffaloe skin, with the hair on, is placed so as to prevent the
+rubbing of the boards, and when they mount they throw a piece of skin
+or robe over the saddle, which has no permanent cover. When stirrups
+are used, they consist of wood covered with leather; but stirrups and
+saddles are conveniences reserved for old men and women. The young
+warriors rarely use any thing except a small leather pad stuffed with
+hair, and secured by a girth made of a leathern thong. In this way they
+ride with great expertness, and they have a particular dexterity in
+catching the horse when he is running at large. If he will not
+immediately submit when they wish to take him, they make a noose in the
+rope, and although the horse may be at a distance, or even running,
+rarely fail to fix it on his neck; and such is the docility of the
+animal, that however unruly he may seem, he surrenders as soon as he
+feels the rope on him. This cord is so useful in this way that it is
+never dispensed with, even when they use the Spanish bridle, which they
+prefer, and always procure when they have it in their power. The horse
+becomes almost an object of attachment: a favourite is frequently
+painted and his ears cut into various shapes: the mane and tail, which
+are never drawn nor trimmed, are decorated with feathers of birds, and
+sometimes a warrior suspends at the breast of his horse the finest
+ornaments he possesses.
+
+Thus armed and mounted the Shoshonee is a formidable enemy, even with
+the feeble weapons which he is still obliged to use. When they attack at
+full speed they bend forward and cover their bodies with the shield,
+while with the right hand they shoot under the horses neck.
+
+The only articles of metal which the Shoshonees possess are a few bad
+knives, some brass kettles, some bracelets or armbands of iron and
+brass, a few buttons worn as ornaments in their hair, one or two spears
+about a foot in length, and some heads for arrows made of iron and
+brass. All these they had obtained in trading with the Crow or Rocky
+mountain Indians, who live on the Yellowstone. The few bridle-bits and
+stirrups they procured from the Spanish colonies.
+
+The instrument which supplies the place of a knife among them, is a
+piece of flint with no regular form, and the sharp part of it not more
+than one or two inches long: the edge of this is renewed, and the flint
+itself is formed into heads for arrows, by means of the point of a deer
+or elk horn, an instrument which they use with great art and ingenuity.
+There are no axes or hatchets; all the wood being cut with flint or
+elk-horn, the latter of which is always used as a wedge in splitting
+wood. Their utensils consist, besides the brass kettles, of pots in the
+form of a jar, made either of earth, or of a stone found in the hills
+between Madison and Jefferson rivers, which, though soft and white in
+its natural state, becomes very hard and black after exposure to the
+fire. The horns of the buffaloe and the bighorn supply them with spoons.
+
+The fire is always kindled by means of a blunt arrow, and a piece of
+well-seasoned wood of a soft spongy kind, such as the willow or
+cottonwood.
+
+The Shoshonees are of a diminutive stature, with thick flat feet and
+ankles, crooked legs, and are, generally speaking, worse formed than any
+nation of Indians we have seen. Their complexion resembles that of the
+Sioux, and is darker than that of the Minnetarees, Mandans, or Shawnees.
+The hair in both sexes is suffered to fall loosely over the face and
+down the shoulders: some men, however, divide it by means of thongs of
+dressed leather or otter skin into two equal queues, which hang over the
+ears and are drawn in front of the body; but at the present moment, when
+the nation is afflicted by the loss of so many relations killed in war,
+most of them have the hair cut quite short in the neck, and Cameahwait
+has the hair cut short all over his head, this being the customary
+mourning for a deceased kindred.
+
+The dress of the men consists of a robe, a tippet, a shirt, long
+leggings and moccasins. The robe is formed most commonly of the skins of
+antelope, bighorn, or deer, though when it can be procured, the buffaloe
+hide is preferred. Sometimes too they are made of beaver, moonax, and
+small wolves, and frequently during the summer of elk skin. These are
+dressed with the hair on, and reach about as low as the middle of the
+leg. They are worn loosely over the shoulders, the sides being at
+pleasure either left open or drawn together by the hand, and in cold
+weather kept close by a girdle round the waist. This robe answers the
+purpose of a cloak during the day, and at night is their only covering.
+
+The tippet is the most elegant article of Indian dress we have ever
+seen. The neck or collar of it is a strip about four or five inches
+wide, cut from the back of the otter skin, the nose and eyes forming one
+extremity, and the tail another. This being dressed with the fur on,
+they attach to one edge of it, from one hundred to two hundred and
+fifty little rolls of ermine skin, beginning at the ear, and proceeding
+towards the tail. These ermine skins are the same kind of narrow strips
+from the back of that animal, which are sewed round a small cord of
+twisted silkgrass thick enough to make the skin taper towards the tail
+which hangs from the end, and are generally about the size of a large
+quill. These are tied at the head into little bundles, of two, three or
+more according to the caprice of the wearer, and then suspended from the
+collar, and a broad fringe of ermine skin is fixed so as to cover the
+parts where they unite, which might have a coarse appearance. Little
+tassels of fringe of the same materials are also fastened to the
+extremities of the tail, so as to show its black colour to greater
+advantage. The centre of the collar is further ornamented with the
+shells of the pearl oyster. Thus adorned, the collar is worn close round
+the neck, and the little rolls fall down over the shoulders nearly
+to the waist, so as to form a sort of short cloak, which has a very
+handsome appearance. These tippets are very highly esteemed, and are
+given or disposed of on important occasions only. The ermine is the fur
+known to the northwest traders by the name of the white weasel, but is
+the genuine ermine; and by encouraging the Indians to take them, might
+no doubt be rendered a valuable branch of trade. These animals must be
+very abundant, for the tippets are in great numbers, and the
+construction of each requires at least one hundred skins.
+
+The shirt is a covering of dressed skin without the hair, and formed
+of the hide of the antelope, deer, bighorn, or elk, though the last
+is more rarely used than any other for this purpose. It fits the body
+loosely, and reaches half way down the thigh. The aperture at the top
+is wide enough to admit the head, and has no collar, but is either left
+square, or most frequently terminates in the tail of the animal, which
+is left entire, so as to fold outwards, though sometimes the edges are
+cut into a fringe, and ornamented with quills of the porcupine. The
+seams of the shirt are on the sides, and are richly fringed and adorned
+with porcupine quills, till within five or six inches of the sleeve,
+where it is left open, as is also the under side of the sleeve from the
+shoulder to the elbow, where it fits closely round the arm as low as
+the wrist, and has no fringe like the sides, and the under part of the
+sleeve above the elbow. It is kept up by wide shoulder straps, on which
+the manufacturer displays his taste by the variety of figures wrought
+with porcupine quills of different colours, and sometimes by beads when
+they can be obtained. The lower end of the shirt retains the natural
+shape of the fore legs and neck of the skin, with the addition of a
+slight fringe; the hair too is left on the tail and near the hoofs, part
+of which last is retained and split into a fringe.
+
+The leggings are generally made of antelope skins, dressed without the
+hair, and with the legs, tail and neck hanging to them. Each legging is
+formed of a skin nearly entire, and reaches from the ancle to the upper
+part of the thigh, and the legs of the skin are tucked before and behind
+under a girdle round the waist. It fits closely to the leg, the tail
+being worn upwards, and the neck highly ornamented with fringe and
+porcupine quills, drags on the ground behind the heels. As the legs of
+the animal are tied round the girdle, the wide part of the skin is drawn
+so high as to conceal the parts usually kept from view, in which respect
+their dress is much more decent than that of any nation of Indians on
+the Missouri. The seams of the leggings down the sides, are also fringed
+and ornamented, and occasionally decorated with tufts of hair taken
+from enemies whom they have slain. In making all these dresses, their
+only thread is the sinew taken from the backs and loins of deer, elk,
+buffaloe, or any other animal.
+
+The moccasin is of the deer, elk, or buffaloe skin, dressed without the
+hair, though in winter they use the buffaloe skin with the hairy side
+inward, as do most of the Indians who inhabit the buffaloe country. Like
+the Mandan moccasin, it is made with a single seam on the outer edge,
+and sewed up behind, a hole being left at the instep to admit the foot.
+It is variously ornamented with figures wrought with porcupine quills,
+and sometimes the young men most fond of dress, cover it with the skin
+of a polecat, and trail at their heels the tail of the animal.
+
+The dress of the women consists of the same articles as that of their
+husbands. The robe though smaller is worn in the same way: the moccasins
+are precisely similar. The shirt or chemise reaches half way down the
+leg, is in the same form, except that there is no shoulder-strap, the
+seam coming quite up to the shoulder; though for women who give suck
+both sides are open, almost down to the waist. It is also ornamented in
+the same way with the addition of little patches of red cloth, edged
+round with beads at the skirts. The chief ornament is over the breast,
+where there are curious figures made with the usual luxury of porcupine
+quills. Like the men they have a girdle round the waist, and when either
+sex wishes to disengage the arm, it is drawn up through the hole near
+the shoulder, and the lower part of the sleeve thrown behind the body.
+
+Children alone wear beads round their necks; grown persons of both sexes
+prefer them suspended in little bunches from the ear, and sometimes
+intermixed with triangular pieces of the shell of the pearl oyster.
+Sometimes the men tie them in the same way to the hair of the forepart
+of the head, and increase the beauty of it by adding the wings and tails
+of birds, and particularly the feathers of the great eagle or calumet
+bird, of which they are extremely fond. The collars are formed either
+of sea shells procured from their relations to the southwest, or of the
+sweet-scented grass which grows in the neighbourhood, and which they
+twist or plait together, to the thickness of a man's finger, and then
+cover with porcupine quills of various colours. The first of these is
+worn indiscriminately by both sexes, the second principally confined
+to the men, while a string of elk's tusks is a collar almost peculiar
+to the women and children. Another collar worn by the men is a string
+of round bones like the joints of a fish's back, but the collar most
+preferred, because most honourable, is one of the claws of the brown
+bear. To kill one of these animals is as distinguished an achievement as
+to have put to death an enemy, and in fact with their weapons is a more
+dangerous trial of courage. These claws are suspended on a thong of
+dressed leather, and being ornamented with beads, are worn round the
+neck by the warriors with great pride. The men also frequently wear the
+skin of a fox, or a strip of otter skin round the head in the form of a
+bandeau.
+
+In short, the dress of the Shoshonees is as convenient and decent as
+that of any Indians we have seen.
+
+They have many more children than might have been expected, considering
+their precarious means of support and their wandering life. This
+inconvenience is however balanced by the wonderful facility with which
+their females undergo the operations of child-birth. In the most
+advanced state of pregnancy they continue their usual occupations, which
+are scarcely interrupted longer than the mere time of bringing the child
+into the world.
+
+The old men are few in number and do not appear to be treated with much
+tenderness or respect.
+
+The tobacco used by the Shoshonees is not cultivated among them, but
+obtained from the Indians of the Rocky mountains, and from some of the
+bands of their own nation who live south of them; it is the same plant
+which is in use among the Minnetarees, Mandans, and Ricaras.
+
+Their chief intercourse with other nations seems to consist in their
+association with other Snake Indians, and with the Flatheads when they
+go eastward to hunt buffaloe, and in the occasional visits made by the
+Flatheads to the waters of the Columbia for the purpose of fishing.
+Their intercourse with the Spaniards is much more rare, and it furnishes
+them with a few articles, such as mules, and some bridles, and other
+ornaments for horses, which, as well as some of their kitchen utensils,
+are also furnished by the bands of Snake Indians from the Yellowstone.
+The pearl ornaments which they esteem so highly come from other bands,
+whom they represent as their friends and relations, living to the
+southwest beyond the barren plains on the other side of the mountains:
+these relations they say inhabit a good country, abounding with elk,
+deer, bear, and antelope, where horses and mules are much more abundant
+than they are here, or to use their own expression, as numerous as the
+grass of the plains.
+
+The names of the Indians varies in the course of their life: originally
+given in childhood, from the mere necessity of distinguishing objects,
+or from some accidental resemblance to external objects, the young
+warrior is impatient to change it by some achievement of his own. Any
+important event, the stealing of horses, the scalping an enemy, or
+killing a brown bear, entitles him at once to a new name which he then
+selects for himself, and it is confirmed by the nation. Sometimes the
+two names subsist together: thus, the chief Cameahwait, which means,
+"one who never walks," has the war name of Tooettecone, or "black gun,"
+which he acquired when he first signalized himself. As each new action
+gives a warrior a right to change his name, many of them have had
+several in the course of their lives. To give to a friend his own name
+is an act of high courtesy, and a pledge like that of pulling off the
+moccasin of sincerity and hospitality. The chief in this way gave his
+name to captain Clarke when he first arrived, and he was afterwards
+known among the Shoshonees by the name of Cameahwait.
+
+The diseases incident to this state of life may be supposed to be few,
+and chiefly the result of accidents. We were particularly anxious to
+ascertain whether they had any knowledge of the venereal disorder. After
+inquiring by means of the interpreter and his wife, we learnt that they
+sometimes suffered from it, and that they most usually die with it; nor
+could we discover what was their remedy. It is possible that this
+disease may have reached them in their circuitous communications with
+the whites through the intermediate Indians; but the situation of the
+Shoshonees is so insulated, that it is not probable that it could have
+reached them in that way, and the existence of such a disorder among the
+Rocky mountains seems rather a proof of its being aboriginal.
+
+
+
+
+                               CHAPTER XVII.
+
+     The party, after procuring horses from the Shoshonees, proceed on
+     their journey through the mountains--The difficulties and dangers
+     of the route--A council held with another band of the Shoshonees,
+     of whom some account is given--They are reduced to the necessity of
+     killing their horses for food--Captain Clarke with a small party
+     precedes the main body in quest of food, and is hospitably received
+     by the Pierced-nose Indians--Arrival of the main body amongst this
+     tribe, with whom a council is held--They resolve to perform the
+     remainder of their journey in canoes--Sickness of the party--They
+     descend the Kooskooskee to its junction with Lewis river, after
+     passing several dangerous rapids--Short description of the manners
+     and dress of the Pierced-nose Indians.
+
+
+August 27. We were now occupied in determining our route and procuring
+horses from the Indians. The old guide who had been sent on by captain
+Clarke, now confirmed, by means of our interpreter, what he had
+already asserted, of a road up Berry creek which would lead to Indian
+establishments on another branch of the Columbia: his reports however
+were contradicted by all the Shoshonees. This representation we ascribed
+to a wish on their part to keep us with them during the winter, as well
+for the protection we might afford against their enemies, as for the
+purpose of consuming our merchandise amongst them; and as the old
+man promised to conduct us himself, that route seemed to be the most
+eligible. We were able to procure some horses, though not enough for
+all our purposes. This traffic, and our inquiries and councils with the
+Indians, consumed the remainder of the day.
+
+August 28. The purchase of horses was resumed, and our stock raised
+to twenty-two. Having now crossed more than once the country which
+separates the head waters of the Missouri from those of the Columbia, we
+can designate the easiest and most expeditious route for a portage; it
+is as follows:
+
+From the forks of the river north 60° west, five miles to the point of
+a hill on the right: then south 80° west, ten miles to a spot where the
+creek is ten miles wide, and the highlands approach within two hundred
+yards; southwest five miles to a narrow part of the bottom; then turning
+south 70° west, two miles to a creek on the right: thence south 80°
+west, three miles to a rocky point opposite to a thicket of pines on the
+left; from that place west, three miles to the gap where is the fountain
+of the Missouri: on leaving this fountain south 80° west, six miles
+across the dividing ridge, to a run from the right passing several small
+streams north 80° west, four miles over hilly ground to the east fork of
+Lewis's river, which is here forty yards wide.
+
+Thursday 29. Captain Clarke joined us this morning, and we continued our
+bargains for horses. The late misfortunes of the Shoshonees make the
+price higher than common, so that one horse cost a pistol, one hundred
+balls, some powder and a knife; another was changed for a musket, and in
+this way we obtained twenty-nine. The horses themselves are young and
+vigorous, but they are very poor, and most of them have sore backs in
+consequence of the roughness of the Shoshonee saddle. We are therefore
+afraid of loading them too heavily and are anxious to obtain one at
+least for each man to carry the baggage, or the man himself, or in the
+last resource to serve as food; but with all our exertions we could not
+provide all our men with horses. We have, however, been fortunate in
+obtaining for the last three days a sufficient supply of flesh, our
+hunters having killed two or three deer every day.
+
+Friday 30. The weather was fine, and having now made all our purchases,
+we loaded our horses, and prepared to start. The greater part of the
+band who had delayed their journey on our account, were also ready to
+depart. We then took our leave of the Shoshonees, who set out on their
+visit to the Missouri at the same time that we accompanied by the old
+guide, his four sons, and another Indian, began the descent of the
+river, along the same road which captain Clarke had previously pursued.
+After riding twelve miles we encamped on the south bank of the river,
+and as the hunters had brought in three deer early in the morning we did
+not feel the want of provisions.
+
+Saturday 31. At sunrise we resumed our journey, and halted for three
+hours on Salmon creek to let the horses graze. We then proceeded to the
+stream called Berry creek eighteen miles from the camp of last night:
+as we passed along, the vallies and prairies were on fire in several
+places, in order to collect the bands of the Shoshonees and the
+Flatheads, for their journey to the Missouri. The weather was warm and
+sultry, but the only inconvenience which we apprehend is a dearth of
+food, of which we had to-day an abundance, having procured a deer, a
+goose, one duck and a prairie fowl. On reaching Tower creek we left the
+former track of captain Clarke, and began to explore the new route,
+which is our last hope of getting out of the mountains. For four miles
+the road, which is tolerably plain, led us along Berry creek to some old
+Indian lodges where we encamped for the night; the next day,
+
+Sunday, September 1, 1805, we followed the same road which here left
+the creek and turned to the northwest across the hills. During all day
+we were riding over these hills, from which are many drains and small
+streams running into the river to the left, and at the distance of
+eighteen miles, came to a large creek called Fish creek emptying into
+the Columbia which is about six miles from us. It had rained in the
+course of the day, and commenced raining again towards evening. We
+therefore determined not to leave the low grounds to night, and after
+going up Fish creek four miles formed our encampment. The country over
+which we passed is well watered, but poor and rugged or stony, except
+the bottoms of Fish creek, and even these are narrow. Two men were sent
+to purchase fish of the Indians at the mouth of the creek, and with the
+dried fish which they obtained, and a deer and a few salmon killed by
+the party, we were still well supplied. Two bear also were wounded but
+we could procure neither of them.
+
+Monday 2. This morning all the Indians left us, except the old guide,
+who now conducted us up Fish creek: at one mile and a half we passed a
+branch of the river coming in through a low ground covered with pine on
+the left, and two and a half miles further is a second branch from the
+right; after continuing our route along the hills covered with pine, and
+a low ground of the same growth, we arrived at the distance of three and
+a half miles at the forks of the creek. The road which we were following
+now turned up the east side of these forks, and as our guide informed us
+led to the Missouri. We were therefore left without any track; but as no
+time was to be lost we began to cut our road up the west branch of the
+creek. This we effected with much difficulty; the thickets of trees
+and brush through which we were obliged to cut our way required great
+labour; the road itself was over the steep and rocky sides of the hills
+where the horses could not move without danger of slipping down, while
+their feet were bruised by the rocks and stumps of trees. Accustomed as
+these animals were to this kind of life they suffered severely, several
+of them fell to some distance down the sides of the hills, some turned
+over with the baggage, one was crippled, and two gave out exhausted with
+fatigue. After crossing the creek several times we at last made five
+miles, with great fatigue and labour, and encamped on the left side of
+the creek in a small stony low ground. It was not, however, till after
+dark that the whole party was collected, and then, as it rained, and we
+killed nothing, we passed an uncomfortable night. The party had been
+too busily occupied with the horses to make any hunting excursion, and
+though as we came along Fish creek we saw many beaver dams we saw none
+of the animals themselves. In the morning,
+
+Tuesday 3, the horses were very stiff and weary. We sent back two men
+for the load of the horse which had been crippled yesterday, and which
+we had been forced to leave two miles behind. On their return, we set
+out at eight o'clock, and proceeded up the creek, making a passage
+through the brush and timber along its borders. The country is generally
+supplied with pine, and in the low grounds is a great abundance of fir
+trees, and under bushes. The mountains are high and rugged, and those to
+the east of us, covered with snow. With all our precautions the horses
+were very much injured in passing over the ridges and steep points of
+the hills, and to add to the difficulty, at the distance of eleven
+miles, the high mountains closed the creek, so that we were obliged
+to leave the creek to the right, and cross the mountain abruptly. The
+ascent was here so steep that several of the horses slipped and hurt
+themselves, but at last we succeeded in crossing the mountain, and
+encamped on a small branch of Fish creek. We had now made fourteen miles
+in a direction nearly north from the river; but this distance, though
+short, was very fatiguing, and rendered still more disagreeable by the
+rain which began at three o'clock. At dusk it commenced snowing, and
+continued till the ground was covered to the depth of two inches, when
+it changed into a sleet. We here met with a serious misfortune the last
+of our thermometers being broken by accident. After making a scanty
+supper on a little corn and a few pheasants killed in the course of the
+day, we laid down to sleep, and next morning,
+
+Wednesday 4, found every thing frozen, and the ground covered with snow.
+We were obliged to wait some time in order to thaw the covers of the
+baggage, after which we began our journey at eight o'clock. We crossed a
+high mountain which joins the dividing ridge between the waters of the
+creek we had been ascending, and those running to the north and west.
+We had not gone more than six miles over the snow, when we reached the
+head of a stream from the right, which directed its course more to the
+westward. We descended the steep sides of the hills along its border,
+and at the distance of three miles found a small branch coming in from
+the eastward. We saw several of the argalia, but they were too shy to be
+killed, and we therefore made a dinner from a deer shot by one of the
+hunters. Then we pursued the course of the stream for three miles, till
+it emptied itself into a river from the east. In the wide valley at
+their junction, we discovered a large encampment of Indians: when we had
+reached them and alighted from our horses, we were received with great
+cordiality. A council was immediately assembled, white robes were
+thrown over our soldiers, and the pipe of peace introduced. After
+this ceremony, as it was too late to go any further, we encamped, and
+continued smoking and conversing with the chiefs till a late hour. The
+next morning,
+
+Thursday 5, we assembled the chiefs and warriors, and informed them who
+we were, and the purpose for which we visited their country. All this
+was however conveyed to them through so many different languages, that
+it was not comprehended without difficulty. We therefore proceeded to
+the more intelligible language of presents, and made four chiefs by
+giving a medal and a small quantity of tobacco to each. We received in
+turn from the principal chief, a present consisting of the skins of a
+braro, an otter, and two antelopes, and were treated by the women to
+some dried roots and berries. We then began to traffic for horses, and
+succeeded in exchanging seven, purchasing eleven, for which we gave a
+few articles of merchandise.
+
+This encampment consists of thirty-three tents, in which were about four
+hundred souls, among whom eighty were men. They are called Ootlashoots,
+and represent themselves as one band of a nation called Tushepaws, a
+numerous people of four hundred and fifty tents, residing on the heads
+of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, and some of them lower down the
+latter river. In person these Indians are stout, and their complexion
+lighter than that common among Indians. The hair of the men is worn
+in queues of otter skin, falling in front over the shoulders. A shirt
+of dressed skin covers the body to the knee, and on this is worn
+occasionally a robe. To these were added leggings and moccasins. The
+women suffer their hair to fall in disorder over the face and shoulders,
+and their chief article of covering is a long shirt of skin, reaching
+down to the ancles, and tied round the waist. In other respects, as also
+in the few ornaments which they possess, their appearance is similar
+to that of the Shoshonees; there is however a difference between the
+language of these people which is still farther increased by the very
+extraordinary pronunciation of the Ootlashoots. Their words have all a
+remarkably guttural sound, and there is nothing which seems to represent
+the tone of their speaking more exactly than the clucking of a fowl, or
+the noise of a parrot. This peculiarity renders their voices scarcely
+audible, except at a short distance, and when many of them are talking,
+forms a strange confusion of sounds. The common conversation we
+overheard, consisted of low guttural sounds occasionally broken by
+a loud word or two, after which it would relapse and scarcely be
+distinguished. They seem kind and friendly and willingly shared with us
+berries and roots, which formed their only stock of provisions. Their
+only wealth is their horses, which are very fine, and so numerous that
+this party had with them at least five hundred.
+
+Friday 6. We continued this morning with the Ootlashoots, from whom we
+purchased two more horses, and procured a vocabulary of their language.
+The Ootlashoots set off about two o'clock to join the different bands
+who were collecting at the three forks of the Missouri. We ourselves
+proceeded at the same time, and taking a direction N. 30 W. crossed
+within the distance of one mile and a half, a small river from the
+right, and a creek coming in from the north. This river is the main
+stream, and when it reaches the end of the valley, where the mountains
+close in upon it, is joined by the river on which we encamped last
+evening, as well as by the creek just mentioned. To the river thus
+formed we gave the name of captain Clarke, he being the first white man
+who had ever visited its waters. At the end of five miles on this course
+we had crossed the valley, and reached the top of a mountain covered
+with pine; this we descended along the steep sides and ravines for
+a mile and a half, when we came to a spot on the river, where the
+Ootlashoots had encamped a few days before. We then followed the course
+of the river, which is from twenty-five to thirty yards wide, shallow,
+stony, and the low grounds on its borders narrow. Within the distance of
+three and a half miles, we crossed it several times, and after passing a
+run on each side, encamped on its right bank, after making ten miles
+during the afternoon. The horses were turned out to graze, but those we
+had lately bought were secured and watched, lest they should escape, or
+be stolen by their former owners. Our stock of flour was now exhausted,
+and we had but little corn, and as our hunters had killed nothing except
+two pheasants, our supper consisted chiefly of berries.
+
+Saturday, 7. The greater part of the day the weather was dark and rainy:
+we continued through the narrow low grounds along the river, till at
+the distance of six miles we came to a large creek from the left, after
+which the bottoms widen. Four miles lower is another creek on the same
+side, and the valley now extends from one to three miles, the mountains
+on the left being high and bald, with snow on the summits, while the
+country to the right is open and hilly. Four miles beyond this is a
+creek running from the snow-top'd mountains, and several runs on both
+sides of the river. Two miles from this last is another creek on the
+left. The afternoon was now far advanced, but not being able to find a
+fit place to encamp we continued six miles further till after dark, when
+we halted for the night. The river here is still shallow and stony, but
+is increased to the width of fifty yards. The valley through which we
+passed is of a poor soil, and its fertility injured by the quantity of
+stone scattered over it. We met two horses which had strayed from the
+Indians and were now quite wild. No fish was to be seen in the river,
+but we obtained a very agreeable supply of two deer, two cranes, and two
+pheasants.
+
+Sunday, 8. We set out early: the snow-top'd hills on the left approach
+the river near our camp, but we soon reached a valley four or five miles
+wide, through which we followed the course of the river in a direction
+due north. We passed three creeks on the right, and several runs
+emptying themselves into the opposite side of the river. At the distance
+of eleven miles the river turned more towards the west: we pursued it
+for twelve miles, and encamped near a large creek coming in from the
+right, which, from its being divided into four different channels, we
+called Scattering creek. The valley continues to be a poor stony land,
+with scarcely any timber, except some pine trees along the waters and
+partially scattered on the hills to the right, which, as well as those
+on the left, have snow on them. The plant which forces itself most on
+our attention is a species of prickly pear very common on this part of
+the river: it grows in clusters, in an oval form about the size of a
+pigeon's egg, and its thorns are so strong and bearded, that when it
+penetrates our feet it brings away the pear itself. We saw two mares
+and a colt, which, like the horses seen yesterday, seemed to have lost
+themselves and become wild. Our game to-day consisted of two deer, an
+elk, and a prairie fowl.
+
+Monday, 9. We resumed our journey through the valley, and leaving
+the road on our right crossed the Scattering creek, and halted at
+the distance of twelve miles on a small run from the east, where we
+breakfasted on the remains of yesterday's hunt: we here took a meridian
+altitude, which gave the latitude of 46° 41' 38" 9"': we then continued,
+and at the distance of four miles passed over to the left bank of the
+river, where we found a large road through the valley. At this place is
+a handsome stream of very clear water, a hundred yards wide with low
+banks, and a bed formed entirely of gravel: it has every appearance of
+being navigable, but as it contains no salmon, we presume there must
+be some fall below which obstructs their passage. Our guide could not
+inform us where this river discharged its waters; he said that as far as
+he knew its course it ran along the mountains to the north, and that not
+far from our present position it was joined by another stream nearly
+as large as itself, which rises in the mountains to the east near the
+Missouri, and flows through an extensive valley or open prairie. Through
+this prairie is the great Indian road to the waters of the Missouri; and
+so direct is the route, that in four days' journey from this place we
+might reach the Missouri about thirty miles above what we called the
+Gates of the Rocky mountains, or the spot where the valley of that river
+widens into an extensive plain on entering the chain of mountains. At
+ten miles from our camp is a small creek falling in from the eastward,
+five miles below which we halted at a large stream which empties itself
+on the west side of the river. It is a fine bold creek of clear water
+about twenty yards wide, and we called it _Traveller's-rest_ creek; for
+as our guide told us that we should here leave the river, we determined
+to remain for the purpose of making celestial observations and
+collecting some food, as the country through which we are to pass has no
+game for a great distance.
+
+The valley of the river through which we have been passing is generally
+a prairie from five to six miles in width, and with a cold gravelly
+white soil. The timber which it possesses is almost exclusively pine,
+chiefly of the long-leafed kind, with some spruce, and a species of fir
+resembling the Scotch fir: near the water courses are also seen a few
+narrow-leafed cottonwood trees, and the only underbrush is the redwood,
+honeysuckle, and rosebushes. Our game was four deer, three geese,
+four ducks, and three prairie fowls; one of the hunters brought in a
+red-headed woodpecker of the large kind common in the United States,
+but the first of the kind we have seen since leaving the Illinois.
+
+Tuesday, 10. The morning being fair all the hunters were sent out,
+and the rest of the party employed in repairing their clothes: two
+of them were sent to the junction of the river from the east, along
+which the Indians go to the Missouri: it is about seven miles below
+Traveller's-rest creek; the country at the forks is seven or eight miles
+wide, level and open, but with little timber; its course is to the
+north, and we incline to believe that this is the river which the
+Minnetarees had described to us as running from south to north along the
+west side of the Rocky mountains, not far from the sources of Medicine
+river: there is moreover reason to suppose, that after going as far
+northward as the head-waters of that river it turns to the westward and
+joins the Tacootchetessee. Towards evening one of the hunters returned
+with three Indians, whom he had met in his excursion up Traveller's-rest
+creek: as soon as they saw him they prepared to attack him with arrows,
+but he quieted them by laying down his gun and advancing towards them,
+and soon persuaded them to come to the camp. Our Shoshonee guide could
+not speak the language of these people, but by the universal language
+of signs and gesticulations, which is perfectly intelligible among the
+Indians, he found that these were three Tushepaw Flatheads in pursuit of
+two men, supposed to be Shoshonees, who had stolen twenty-three of their
+horses: we gave them some boiled venison and a few presents; such as a
+fishhook, a steel to strike fire, and a little powder; but they seemed
+better pleased with a piece of riband which we tied in the hair of each
+of them. They were however in such haste, lest their horses should be
+carried off, that two of them set off after sunset in quest of the
+robbers: the third however was persuaded to remain with us and conduct
+us to his relations: these he said were numerous, and resided on the
+Columbia in the plain below the mountains. From that place he added,
+the river was navigable to the ocean; that some of his relations had
+been there last fall and seen an old white man who resided there by
+himself, and who gave them some handkerchiefs like those we have. The
+distance from this place is five sleeps or days' journey. When our
+hunters had all joined us we found our provisions consisted of four
+deer, a beaver, and three grouse.
+
+The observation of to-day gave 46° 48' 28" as the latitude of
+Travellers-rest creek.
+
+Wednesday 11. Two of our horses having strayed away we were detained all
+the morning before they were caught. In the meantime our Tushepaw Indian
+became impatient of the delay, and set out to return home alone. As
+usual we had dispatched four of our best hunters ahead, and as we hoped
+with their aid and our present stock of provisions to subsist on the
+route, we proceeded at three o'clock up the right side of the creek, and
+encamped under some old Indian huts at the distance of seven miles. The
+road was plain and good; the valley is however narrower than that which
+we left and bordered by high and rugged hills to the right, while the
+mountains on the left were covered with snow. The day was fair and warm,
+the wind from the northwest.
+
+Thursday 12. There was a white frost this morning. We proceeded at seven
+o'clock and soon passed a stream falling in on the right, near which was
+an old Indian camp with a bath or sweating-house covered with earth. At
+two miles distance we ascended a high, and thence continued through a
+hilly and thickly timbered country for nine miles, when we came to the
+forks of the creek, where the road branches up each fork. We followed
+the western route, and finding that the creek made a considerable bend
+at the distance of four miles, crossed a high mountain in order to avoid
+the circuit. The road had been very bad during the first part of the
+day, but the passage of the mountain, which was eight miles across,
+was very painful to the horses, as we were obliged to go over steep
+stony sides of hills and along the hollows and ravines, rendered more
+disagreeable* by the fallen timber, chiefly pine, spruce pine and fir.
+We at length reached the creek, having made twenty-three miles of a
+route so difficult that some of the party did not join us before ten
+o'clock. We found the account of the scantiness of game but too true, as
+we were not able to procure any thing during the whole of yesterday, and
+to-day we killed only a single pheasant. Along the road we observed many
+of the pine trees pealed off, which is done by the Indians to procure
+the inner bark for food in the spring.
+
+Friday 13. Two of the horses strayed away during the night, and one of
+them being captain Lewis's, he remained with four men to search for them
+while we proceeded up the creek: at the distance of two miles we came
+to several springs issuing from large rocks of a coarse hard grit,
+and nearly boiling hot. Those seem to be much frequented as there are
+several paths made by elk, deer and other animals, and near one of
+the springs a hole or Indian bath, and roads leading in different
+directions. These embarrassed our guide, who mistaking the road took us
+three miles out of the proper course over an exceedingly bad route. We
+then fell into the right road, and proceeded on very well, when having
+made five miles we stopped to refresh the horses. Captain Lewis here
+joined us, but not having been able to find his horse two men were sent
+back to continue the search. We then proceeded along the same kind of
+country which we passed yesterday, and after crossing a mountain and
+leaving the sources of the Travellers-rest creek on the left, reached
+after five miles riding a small creek which also came in from the left
+hand, passing through open glades, some of which were half a mile wide.
+The road which had been as usual rugged and stony, became firm, plain
+and level after quitting the head of Travellers-rest. We followed the
+course of this new creek for two miles and encamped at a spot where the
+mountains close on each side. Other mountains covered with snow are in
+view to the southeast and southwest. We were somewhat more fortunate
+to-day in killing a deer and several pheasants which were of the common
+species, except that the tail was black.
+
+Saturday 14. The day was very cloudy with rain and hail in the vallies,
+while on the top of the mountains some snow fell. We proceeded early,
+and continuing along the right side of Glade creek crossed a high
+mountain, and at the distance of six miles reached the place where it is
+joined by another branch of equal size from the right. Near the forks
+the Tushepaws have had an encampment which is but recently abandoned,
+for the grass is entirely destroyed by horses, and two fish weirs across
+the creek are still remaining; no fish were however to be seen. We here
+passed over to the left side of the creek and began the ascent of a very
+high and steep mountain nine miles across. On reaching the other side we
+found a large branch from the left, which seems to rise in the snowy
+mountains to the south and southeast. We continued along the creek two
+miles further, when night coming on we encamped opposite a small island
+at the mouth of a branch on the right side of the river. The mountains
+which we crossed to-day were much more difficult than those of
+yesterday; the last was particularly fatiguing, being steep and stony,
+broken by fallen timber, and thickly overgrown by pine, spruce, fir,
+haematack and tamarac. Although we had made only seventeen miles we were
+all very weary. The whole stock of animal food was now exhausted, and
+we therefore killed a colt, on which we made a hearty supper. From
+this incident we called the last creek we had passed from the south
+Colt-killed creek. The river itself is eighty yards wide, with a swift
+current, and a stony channel. Its Indian name is Kooskooskee.
+
+Sunday 15. At an early hour we proceeded along the right side of the
+Kooskooskee over steep rocky points of land, till at the distance of
+four miles we reached an old Indian fishing place: the road here turned
+to the right of the water, and began to ascend a mountain: but the fire
+and wind had prostrated or dried almost all the timber on the south
+side, and the ascents were so steep that we were forced to wind in every
+direction round the high knobs which constantly impeded our progress.
+Several of the horses lost their foot-hold and slipped: one of them
+which was loaded with a desk and small trunk, rolled over and over for
+forty yards, till his fall was stopped by a tree. The desk was broken;
+but the poor animal escaped without much injury. After clambering in
+this way for four miles, we came to a high snowy part of the mountain
+where was a spring of water, at which we halted two hours to refresh our
+horses.
+
+On leaving the spring the road continued as bad as it was below, and the
+timber more abundant. At four miles we reached the top of the mountain,
+and foreseeing no chance of meeting with water, we encamped on the
+northern side of the mountain, near an old bank of snow, three feet
+deep. Some of this we melted, and supped on the remains of the colt
+killed yesterday. Our only game to-day was two pheasants, and the horses
+on which we calculated as a last resource begin to fail us, for two of
+them were so poor, and worn out with fatigue, that we were obliged to
+leave them behind. All around us are high rugged mountains, among which
+is a lofty range from southeast to northwest, whose tops are without
+timber, and in some places covered with snow. The night was cloudy and
+very cold, and three hours before daybreak,
+
+Monday 16, it began to snow, and continued all day, so that by evening
+it was six or eight inches deep. This covered the track so completely,
+that we were obliged constantly to halt and examine, lest we should
+lose the route. In many places we had nothing to guide us except the
+branches of the trees which, being low, have been rubbed by the burdens
+of the Indian horses. The road was, like that of yesterday, along
+steep hill sides, obstructed with fallen timber, and a growth of eight
+different species of pine, so thickly strewed that the snow falls from
+them as we pass, and keeps us continually wet to the skin, and so cold,
+that we are anxious lest our feet should be frozen, as we have only thin
+moccasins to defend them.
+
+At noon we halted to let the horses feed on some long grass on the south
+side of the mountains, and endeavoured by making fires to keep ourselves
+warm. As soon as the horses were refreshed, captain Clarke went ahead
+with one man, and at the distance of six miles reached a stream from the
+right, and prepared fires by the time of our arrival at dusk. We here
+encamped in a piece of low ground, thickly timbered, but scarcely large
+enough to permit us to lie level. We had now made thirteen miles. We
+were all very wet, cold, and hungry: but although before setting out
+this morning, we had seen four deer, yet we could not procure any of
+them, and were obliged to kill a second colt for our supper.
+
+Tuesday 17. Our horses became so much scattered during the night, that
+we were detained till one o'clock before they were all collected. We
+then continued our route over high rough knobs, and several drains and
+springs, and along a ridge of country separating the waters of two small
+rivers. The road was still difficult, and several of the horses fell and
+injured themselves very much, so that we were unable to advance more
+than ten miles to a small stream, on which we encamped.
+
+We had killed a few pheasants, but these being insufficient for our
+subsistence, we killed another of the colts. This want of provisions,
+and the extreme fatigue to which we were subjected, and the dreary
+prospects before us, began to dispirit the men. It was therefore agreed
+that captain Clarke should go on ahead with six hunters, and endeavour
+to kill something for the support of the party. He therefore set out,
+
+Wednesday 18, early in the morning in hopes of finding a level country
+from which he might send back some game. His route lay S. 85° W., along
+the same high dividing ridge, and the road was still very bad; but he
+moved on rapidly, and at the distance of twenty miles was rejoiced on
+discovering far off an extensive plain towards the west and southwest,
+bounded by a high mountain. He halted an hour to let the horses eat a
+little grass on the hill sides, and then went on twelve and a half miles
+till he reached a bold creek, running to the left, on which he encamped.
+To this stream he gave the very appropriate name of Hungry creek; for
+having procured no game, they had nothing to eat.
+
+In the meantime we were detained till after eight o'clock by the loss of
+one of our horses which had strayed away and could not be found. We then
+proceeded, but having soon finished the remainder of the colt killed
+yesterday, felt the want of provisions, which was more sensible from our
+meeting with no water, till towards nightfall we found some in a ravine
+among the hills. By pushing on our horses almost to their utmost
+strength, we made eighteen miles.
+
+We then melted some snow, and supped on a little portable soup, a few
+canisters of which, with about twenty weight of bears oil, are our only
+remaining means of subsistence. Our guns are scarcely of any service,
+for there is no living creature in these mountains, except a few small
+pheasants, a small species of gray squirrel, and a blue bird of the
+vulture kind about the size of a turtle dove or jay, and even these are
+difficult to shoot.
+
+Thursday 19. Captain Clarke proceeded up the creek, along which the
+road was more steep and stony than any he had yet passed, At six miles
+distance he reached a small plain, in which he fortunately found a
+horse, on which he breakfasted, and hung the rest on a tree for the
+party in the rear. Two miles beyond this he left the creek, and crossed
+three high mountains, rendered almost impassable from the steepness of
+the ascent and the quantity of fallen timber. After clambering over
+these ridges and mountains, and passing the heads of some branches of
+Hungry creek, he came to a large creek running westward. This he
+followed for four miles, then turned to the right down the mountain,
+till he came to a small creek to the left. Here he halted, having made
+twenty-two miles on his course, south eighty degrees west, though the
+winding route over the mountains almost doubled the distance. On
+descending the last mountain, the heat became much more sensible after
+the extreme cold he had experienced for several days past. Besides the
+breakfast in the morning, two pheasants were their only food during the
+day, and the only kinds of birds they saw were the blue jay, a small
+white-headed hawk, a larger hawk, crows, and ravens.
+
+We followed soon after sunrise. At six miles the ridge terminated and we
+had before us the cheering prospect of the large plain to the southwest.
+On leaving the ridge we again ascended and went down several mountains,
+and six miles further came to Hungry creek where it was fifteen yards
+wide, and received the waters of a branch from the north. We went up it
+on a course nearly due west, and at three miles crossed a second branch
+flowing from the same quarter. The country is thickly covered with pine
+timber, of which we have enumerated eight distinct species. Three miles
+beyond this last branch of Hungry creek we encamped, after a fatiguing
+route of eighteen miles. The road along the creek is a narrow rocky path
+near the borders of very high precipices, from which a fall seems almost
+inevitable destruction. One of our horses slipped and rolling over with
+his load down the hill side, which was nearly perpendicular and strewed
+with large irregular rocks, nearly a hundred yards, and did not stop
+till he fell into the creek: we all expected he was killed, but to our
+astonishment, on taking off his load, he rose, and seemed but little
+injured, and in twenty minutes proceeded with his load. Having no other
+provision we took some portable soup, our only refreshment during the
+day. This abstinence, joined with fatigue, has a visible effect on our
+health. The men are growing weak and losing their flesh very fast:
+several are afflicted with the dysentery, and eruptions of the skin are
+very common.
+
+Friday 20. Captain Clarke went on through a country as rugged as usual,
+till on passing a low mountain he came at the distance of four miles to
+the forks of a large creek. Down this he kept on a course south 60° west
+for two miles, then turning to the right, continued over a dividing
+ridge where were the heads of several little streams, and at twelve
+miles distance descended the last of the rocky mountains and reached the
+level country. A beautiful open plain partially supplied with pine now
+presented itself. He continued for five miles when he discovered three
+Indian boys, who, on observing the party, ran off and hid themselves in
+the grass. Captain Clarke immediately alighted, and giving his horse
+and gun to one of the men went after the boys. He soon relieved their
+apprehensions and sent them forward to the village about a mile off with
+presents of small pieces of riband. Soon after the boys had reached
+home, a man came out to meet the party, with great caution, but he
+conducted them to a large tent in the village, and all the inhabitants
+gathered round to view with a mixture of fear and pleasure these
+wonderful strangers. The conductor now informed captain Clarke by signs,
+that the spacious tent was the residence of the great chief, who had set
+out three days ago with all the warriors to attack some of their enemies
+towards the southwest; that he would not return before fifteen or
+eighteen days, and that in the meantime there were only a few men left
+to guard the women and children. They now set before them a small piece
+of buffaloe meat, some dried salmon, berries, and several kinds of
+roots. Among these last is one which is round and much like an onion in
+appearance and sweet to the taste: it is called quamash, and is eaten
+either in its natural state, or boiled into a kind of soup or made into
+a cake, which is then called pasheco. After the long abstinence this was
+a sumptuous treat; we returned the kindness of the people by a few small
+presents, and then went on in company with one of the chiefs to a second
+village in the same plain, at the distance of two miles. Here the party
+was treated with great kindness and passed the night. The hunters were
+sent out, but though they saw some tracks of deer were not able to
+procure any thing.
+
+We were detained till ten o'clock before we could collect our scattered
+horses; we then proceeded for two miles, when to our great joy we found
+the horse which captain Clarke had killed, and a note apprising us of
+his intention of going to the plains towards the southwest, and collect
+provisions by the time we reached him. At one o'clock we halted on a
+small stream, and made a hearty meal of horse flesh. On examination it
+now appeared that one of the horses was missing, and the man in whose
+charge he had been, was directed to return and search for him. He came
+back in about two hours without having been able to find the horse; but
+as the load was too valuable to be lost, two of the best woodsmen were
+directed to continue the search while we proceeded. Our general course
+was south 25° west through a thick forest of large pine, which has
+fallen in many places, and very much obstructs the road. After making
+about fifteen miles we encamped on a ridge where we could find but
+little grass and no water. We succeeded, however, in procuring a little
+from a distance, and supped on the remainder of the horse.
+
+On descending the heights of the mountains the soil becomes gradually
+more fertile, and the land through which we passed this evening, is of
+an excellent quality. It has a dark gray soil, though very broken, and
+with large masses of gray free-stone above the ground in many places.
+Among the vegetable productions we distinguished the alder, honeysuckle,
+and huckleberry, common in the United States, and a species of
+honeysuckle, known only westward of the Rocky mountains, which rises to
+the height of about four feet, and bears a white berry. There is also a
+plant resembling the chokecherry, which grows in thick clumps eight or
+ten feet high, and bears a black berry with a single stone of a sweetish
+taste. The arbor vitæ too, is very common, and grows to a great size,
+being from two to six feet in diameter.
+
+Saturday 21. The free use of food, to which he had not been accustomed,
+made captain Clarke very sick both yesterday evening and during the
+whole of to-day. He therefore sent out all the hunters and remained
+himself at the village, as well on account of his sickness as for the
+purpose of avoiding suspicion and collecting information from the
+Indians as to the route.
+
+The two villages consist of about thirty double tents, and the
+inhabitants call themselves Chopunnish or Pierced-nose. The chief drew
+a chart of the river, and explained, that a greater chief than himself,
+who governed this village and was called the Twisted-hair, was now
+fishing at the distance of half a day's ride down the river: his chart
+made the Kooskooskee fork a little below his camp, a second fork below,
+still further on a large branch flowed in on each side, below which the
+river passed the mountains: here was a great fall of water, near which
+lived white people, from whom were procured the white beads and brass
+ornaments worn by the women.
+
+A chief of another band made a visit this morning, and smoked with
+captain Clarke. The hunters returned without having been able to kill
+any thing; captain Clarke purchased as much dried salmon, roots, and
+berries as he could, with the few articles he chanced to have in his
+pockets, and having sent them by one of the men and a hired Indian back
+to captain Lewis, he went on towards the camp of the Twisted-hair. It
+was four o'clock before he set out, and the night soon came on; but
+having met an Indian coming from the river, they engaged him by a
+present of a neckcloth, to guide them to the Twisted-hair's camp. For
+twelve miles they proceeded through the plain before they reached the
+river hills, which are very high and steep. The whole valley from these
+hills to the Rocky mountain is a beautiful level country, with a rich
+soil covered with grass: there is, however, but little timber, and the
+ground is badly watered: the plain is so much lower than the surrounding
+hills, or so much sheltered by them, that the weather is quite warm,
+while the cold of the mountains was extreme. From the top of the river
+hills they proceeded down for three miles till they reached the water
+side, between eleven and twelve o'clock at night: here we found a small
+camp of five squaws and three children, the chief himself being
+encamped, with two others, on a small island in the river: the guide
+called to him and he soon came over. Captain Clarke gave him a medal,
+and they smoked together till one o'clock.
+
+We could not set out till eleven o'clock, because being obliged in the
+evening to loosen our horses to enable them to find subsistence, it
+is always difficult to collect them in the morning. At that hour we
+continued along the ridge on which we had slept, and at a mile and a
+half reached a large creek running to our left, just above its junction
+with one of its branches. We proceeded down the low grounds of this
+creek, which are level, wide, and heavily timbered, but turned to the
+right at the distance of two and a half miles, and began to pass the
+broken and hilly country; but the thick timber had fallen in so many
+places that we could scarcely make our way. After going five miles
+we passed the creek on which captain Clarke had encamped during the
+night of the 19th, and continued five miles further over the same kind
+of road, till we came to the forks of a large creek. We crossed the
+northern branch of this stream, and proceeded down it on the west side
+for a mile: here we found a small plain where there was tolerable grass
+for the horses, and therefore remained during the night, having made
+fifteen miles on a course S. 30° W.
+
+The arbor vitæ increases in size and quantity as we advance: some of
+the trees we passed to-day being capable of forming periogues at least
+forty-five feet in length. We were so fortunate also as to kill a few
+pheasants and a prairie wolf, which, with the remainder of the horse,
+supplied us with one meal, the last of our provisions, our food for the
+morrow being wholly dependent on the chance of our guns.
+
+Sunday, 22. Captain Clarke passed over to the island with the
+Twisted-hair, who seemed to be cheerful and sincere in his conduct.
+The river at this place is about one hundred and sixty yards wide, but
+interrupted by shoals, and the low grounds on its borders are narrow.
+The hunters brought in three deer; after which Captain Clarke left his
+party, and accompanied by the Twisted-hair and his son, rode back to the
+village, where he arrived about sunset: they then walked up together to
+the second village, where we had just arrived. We had intended to set
+out early, but one of the men having neglected to hobble his horse he
+strayed away, and we were obliged to wait till nearly twelve o'clock. We
+then proceeded on a western course for two and a half miles, when we met
+the hunters sent by Captain Clarke from the village, seven and a half
+miles distant, with provisions. This supply was most seasonable, as
+we had tasted nothing since last night, and the fish, and roots, and
+berries, in addition to a crow which we killed on the route, completely
+satisfied our hunger. After this refreshment we proceeded in much better
+spirits, and at a few miles were overtaken by the two men who had been
+sent back after a horse on the 20th. They were perfectly exhausted with
+the fatigue of walking and the want of food; but as we had two spare
+horses they were mounted and brought on to the village.
+
+They had set out about three o'clock in the afternoon of the 20th with
+one horse between them: after crossing the mountain they came to the
+place where we had eaten the horse. Here they encamped, and having no
+food made a fire and roasted the head of the horse, which even our
+appetites had spared, and supped on the ears, skin, lips, &c. of the
+animal. The next morning, 21st, they found the track of the horse,
+and pursuing it recovered the saddle-bags, and at length about eleven
+o'clock, the horse himself. Being now both mounted, they set out to
+return and slept at a small stream: during the day they had nothing at
+all except two pheasants, which were so torn to pieces by the shot, that
+the head and legs were the only parts fit for food. In this situation
+they found the next morning, 22d, that during the night their horses had
+run away from them or been stolen by the Indians. They searched for them
+until nine o'clock, when seeing that they could not recover them and
+fearful of starving if they remained where they were, they set out on
+foot to join us, carrying the saddle-bags alternately. They walked as
+fast as they could during the day, till they reached us in a deplorable
+state of weakness and inanition.
+
+As we approached the village, most of the women, though apprised of our
+being expected, fled with their children into the neighbouring woods.
+The men, however, received us without any apprehension, and gave us
+a plentiful supply of provisions. The plains were now crowded with
+Indians, who came to see the persons of the whites and the strange
+things they brought with them: but as our guide was perfectly a stranger
+to their language we could converse by signs only. Our inquiries were
+chiefly directed to the situation of the country, the courses of the
+rivers, and the Indian villages, of all which we received information
+from several of the Indians, and as their accounts varied but little
+from each other, we were induced to place confidence in them. Among
+others, the Twisted-hair drew a chart of the river on a white elk skin.
+According to this, the Kooskooskee forks a few miles from this place;
+two days towards the south is another and larger fork on which the
+Shoshonee or Snake Indians fish: five days' journey further is a large
+river from the northwest into which Clarke's river empties itself: from
+the mouth of that river to the falls is five days' journey further: on
+all the forks as well as on the main river great numbers of Indians
+reside, and at the falls are establishments of whites. This was the
+story of the Twisted-hair.
+
+Monday 23. The chiefs and warriors were all assembled this morning, and
+we explained to them where we came from, the objects of our visiting
+them, and our pacific intentions towards all the Indians. This being
+conveyed by signs, might not have been perfectly comprehended, but
+appeared to give perfect satisfaction. We now gave a medal to two of
+the chiefs, a shirt in addition to the medal already received by the
+Twisted-hair, and delivered a flag and a handkerchief for the grand
+chief on his return. To these were added a knife, a handkerchief and a
+small piece of tobacco for each chief. The inhabitants did not give us
+any provisions gratuitously. We therefore purchased a quantity of fish,
+berries (chiefly red haws) and roots; and in the afternoon went on to
+the second village. The Twisted-hair introduced us into his own tent,
+which consisted however of nothing more than pine bushes and bark,
+and gave us some dried salmon boiled. We continued our purchases, and
+obtained as much provision as our horses could carry in their present
+weak condition as far as the river. The men exchanged a few old
+canisters for dressed elk skins, of which they made shirts: great crowds
+of the natives are round us all night, but we have not yet missed any
+thing except a knife and a few other articles stolen yesterday from a
+shot pouch. At dark we had a hard wind from the southwest accompanied
+with rain which lasted half an hour, but in the morning,
+
+Tuesday 24, the weather was fair. We sent back Colter in search of the
+horses lost in the mountains, and having collected the rest set out
+at ten o'clock along the same route already passed by captain Clarke
+towards the river. All round the village the women are busily employed
+in gathering and dressing the pasheco root, of which large quantities
+are heaped up in piles over the plain. We now felt severely the
+consequence of eating heartily after our late privations: captain Lewis
+and two of the men were taken very ill last evening, and to-day he
+could scarcely sit on his horse, while others were obliged to be put
+on horseback, and some from extreme weakness and pain, were forced to
+lie down along side of the road for some time. At sunset we reached
+the island where the hunters had been left on the 22d. They had been
+unsuccessful, having killed only two deer since that time, and two of
+them are very sick. A little below this island is a larger one on which
+we encamped, and administered Rush's pills to the sick.
+
+Wednesday 25. The weather was very hot, and oppressive to the party,
+most of whom are now complaining of sickness. Our situation indeed,
+rendered it necessary to husband our remaining strength, and it was
+determined to proceed down the river in canoes. Captain Clarke therefore
+set out with the Twisted-hair and two young men, in quest of timber for
+canoes. As he went down the river he crossed at the distance of a mile a
+creek from the right, which from the rocks that obstructed its passage,
+he called Rockdam river. The hills along the river are high and steep:
+the low grounds are narrow, and the navigation of the river embarrassed
+by two rapids. At the distance of three miles further he reached two
+nearly equal forks of the river, one of which flowed in from the north.
+Here he rested for an hour, and cooked a few salmon which one of the
+Indians caught with a gig. Here too, he was joined by two canoes of
+Indians from below: they were long, steady, and loaded with the
+furniture and provisions of two families. He now crossed the south fork,
+and returned to the camp on the south side, through a narrow pine bottom
+the greater part of the way, in which was found much fine timber for
+canoes. One of the Indian boats with two men, set out at the same time,
+and such was their dexterity in managing the pole, that they reached
+camp within fifteen minutes after him, although they had to drag the
+canoe over three rapids. He found captain Lewis, and several of the men
+still very sick; and distributed to such as were in need of it, salts
+and tartar emetic.
+
+Thursday 26. Having resolved to go down to some spot calculated for
+building canoes, we set out early this morning and proceeded five miles,
+and encamped on low ground on the south, opposite the forks of the
+river. But so weak were the men that several were taken sick in coming
+down; the weather being oppressively hot. Two chiefs and their families
+followed us, and encamped with a great number of horses near us: and
+soon after our arrival we were joined by two Indians, who came down
+the north fork on a raft. We purchased some fresh salmon, and having
+distributed axes, and portioned off the labour of the party, began,
+
+Friday 27, at an early hour, the preparations for making five canoes.
+But few of the men, however, were able to work, and of these several
+were soon taken ill, as the day proved very hot. The hunters too,
+returned without any game, and seriously indisposed, so that nearly the
+whole party was now ill. We procured some fresh salmon; and Colter, who
+now returned with one of the horses, brought half a deer, which was very
+nourishing to the invalids: several Indians from a camp below, came up
+to see us.
+
+Saturday 28. The men continue ill, though some of those first attacked
+are recovering. Their general complaint is a heaviness at the stomach,
+and a lax, which is rendered more painful by the heat of the weather,
+and the diet of fish and roots, to which they are confined, as no game
+is to be procured. A number of Indians collect about us in the course of
+the day to gaze at the strange appearance of every thing belonging to
+us.
+
+Sunday 29. The morning was cool, the wind from the southwest; but in the
+afternoon the heat returned. The men continue ill; but all those who are
+able to work are occupied at the canoes. The spirits of the party were
+much recruited by three deer brought in by the hunters; and the next
+day,
+
+Monday 30th, the sick began to recruit their strength, the morning being
+fair and pleasant. The Indians pass in great numbers up and down the
+river, and we observe large quantities of small duck going down this
+morning.
+
+Tuesday, October 1, 1805. The morning was cool, the wind easterly, but
+the latter part of the day was warm. We were visited by several Indians
+from the tribes below, and others from the main south fork. To two of
+the most distinguished men, we made presents of a ring and broach,
+and to five others a piece of riband, a little tobacco, and the fifth
+part of a neckcloth. We now dried our clothes and other articles, and
+selected some articles such as the Indians admire, in order to purchase
+some provisions, as we have nothing left except a little dried fish,
+which operates as a complete purgative.
+
+Wednesday 2. The day is very warm. Two men were sent to the village with
+a quantity of these articles to purchase food. We are now reduced to
+roots, which produce violent pains in the stomach. Our work continued
+as usual, and many of the party are convalescent. The hunters returned
+in the afternoon with nothing but a small prairie-wolf, so that our
+provisions being exhausted, we killed one of the horses to eat, and
+provide soup for the sick.
+
+Thursday 3. The fine cool morning and easterly wind had an agreeable
+effect upon the party, most of whom are now able to work. The Indians
+from below left us, and we were visited by others from different
+quarters.
+
+Friday 4. Again we had a cool east wind from the mountains. The men were
+now much better, and captain Lewis himself so far recovered as to walk
+about a little. Three Indians arrived to-day from the Great river to the
+south. The two men also returned from the village with roots and fish,
+and as the flesh of the horse killed yesterday was exhausted, we were
+confined to that diet, although unwholesome as well as unpleasant. The
+afternoon was warm.
+
+Saturday 5. The wind easterly, and the weather cool. The canoes being
+nearly finished it became necessary to dispose of our horses. They were
+therefore collected to the number of thirty-eight, and being branded and
+marked were delivered to three Indians, the two brothers and the son of
+a chief, who promises to accompany us down the river. To each of those
+men we gave a knife and some small articles, and they agreed to take
+good care of the horses till our return. The hunters with all their
+diligence are unable to kill any thing, the hills being high and rugged,
+and the woods too dry to hunt deer, which is the only game in the
+country. We therefore continue to eat dried fish and roots, which are
+purchased from the squaws, by means of small presents, but chiefly white
+beads, of which they are extravagantly fond. Some of these roots seem to
+possess very active properties, for after supping on them this evening,
+we were swelled to such a degree as to be scarcely able to breathe for
+several hours. Towards night we lanched two canoes which proved to be
+very good.
+
+Sunday 6. This morning is again cool, and the wind easterly. The general
+course of the winds seems to resemble that which we observed on the east
+side of the mountain. While on the head waters of the Missouri, we had
+every morning a cool wind from the west. At this place a cool breeze
+springs up during the latter part of the night, or near daybreak, and
+continues till seven or eight o'clock, when it subsides, and the latter
+part of the day is warm. Captain Lewis is not so well as he was, and
+captain Clarke was also taken ill. We had all our saddles buried in a
+cache near the river, about half a mile below, and deposited at the same
+time a canister of powder, and a bag of balls. The time which could be
+spared from our labours on the canoes, was devoted to some astronomical
+observations. The latitude of our camp as deduced from the mean of two
+observations is 46° 34' 56" 3"' north.
+
+Monday 7. This morning all the canoes were put in the water and loaded,
+the oars fixed, and every preparation made for setting out but when we
+were all ready, the two chiefs who had promised to accompany us, were
+not to be found, and at the same time we missed a pipe tomahawk. We
+therefore proceeded without them. Below the forks this river is called
+the Kooskooskee, and is a clear rapid stream, with a number of shoals
+and difficult places. For some miles the hills are steep, the low
+grounds narrow, but then succeeds an open country with a few trees
+scattered along the river. At the distance of nine miles is a small
+creek on the left. We passed in the course of the day ten rapids, in
+descending which, one of the canoes struck a rock, and sprung a leak:
+we however continued for nineteen miles, and encamped on the left side
+of the river, opposite to the mouth of a small run. Here the canoe was
+unloaded and repaired, and two lead canisters of powder deposited;
+several camps of Indians were on the sides of the river, but we had
+little intercourse with any of them.
+
+Tuesday 8. We set out at nine o'clock. At eight and a half miles we
+passed an island: four and a half miles lower a second island, opposite
+a small creek on the left side of the river. Five miles lower is another
+island on the left: a mile and a half below which is a fourth. At a
+short distance from this is a large creek from the right, to which we
+gave the name of Colter's creek, from Colter one of the men. We had
+left this creek about a mile and a half, and were passing the last of
+fifteen rapids which we had been fortunate enough to escape, when one of
+the canoes struck, and a hole being made in her side, she immediately
+filled and sunk. The men, several of whom could not swim, clung to the
+boat till one of our canoes could be unloaded, and with the assistance
+of an Indian boat, they were all brought to shore. All the goods were so
+much wet, that we were obliged to halt for the night, and spread them
+out to dry. While all this was exhibited, it was necessary to place two
+sentinels over the merchandise, for we found that the Indians, though
+kind and disposed to give us every aid during our distress, could not
+resist the temptation of pilfering some of the small articles. We passed
+during our route of twenty miles to-day, several encampments of Indians
+on the islands, and near the rapids, which places are chosen as most
+convenient for taking salmon. At one of these camps we found our two
+chiefs, who after promising to descend the river with us, had left us;
+they however willingly came on board after we had gone through the
+ceremony of smoking.
+
+Wednesday, 9. The morning was as usual, cool; but as the weather both
+yesterday and to-day was cloudy, our merchandise dried but slowly. The
+boat, though much injured, was repaired by ten o'clock so as to be
+perfectly fit for service; but we were obliged to remain during the day
+till the articles were sufficiently dry to be reloaded: the interval
+we employed in purchasing fish for the voyage and conversing with the
+Indians. In the afternoon we were surprised at hearing that our old
+Shoshonee guide and his son had left us, and been seen running up the
+river several miles above. As he had never given any notice of his
+intention, nor had even received his pay for guiding us, we could not
+imagine the cause of his desertion, nor did he ever return to explain
+his conduct. We requested the chief to send a horseman after him to
+request that he would return and receive what we owed him. From this
+however he dissuaded us, and said very frankly, that his nation, the
+Chopunnish, would take from the old man any presents that he might have
+on passing their camp.
+
+The Indians came about our camp at night, and were very gay and
+good-humoured with the men. Among other exhibitions was that of a squaw
+who appeared to be crazy: she sang in a wild incoherent manner, and
+would offer to the spectators all the little articles she possessed,
+scarifying herself in a horrid manner if any one refused her present:
+she seemed to be an object of pity among the Indians, who suffered her
+to do as she pleased without interruption.
+
+Thursday, 10. A fine morning. We loaded the canoes and set off at seven
+o'clock. At the distance of two and a half miles we had passed three
+islands, the last of which is opposite to a small stream on the right.
+Within the following three and a half miles is another island and
+a creek on the left, with wide low grounds, containing willow and
+cottonwood trees, on which were three tents of Indians. Two miles
+lower is the head of a large island, and six and a half miles further
+we halted at an encampment of eight lodges on the left, in order to
+view a rapid before us: we had already passed eight, and some of them
+difficult; but this was worse than any of them, being a very hazardous
+ripple strewed with rocks: we here purchased roots and dined with the
+Indians. Among them was a man from the falls, who says that he saw white
+people at that place and is very desirous of going down with us; an
+offer which however we declined. Just above this camp we had passed a
+tent, near which was an Indian bathing himself in a small pond or hole
+of water, warmed by throwing in hot stones. After finishing our meal we
+descended the rapid with no injury, except to one of our boats which
+ran against a rock, but in the course of an hour was brought off with
+only a small split in her side. This ripple, from its appearance and
+difficulty, we named the Rugged rapid. We went on over five other rapids
+of a less dangerous kind, and at the distance of five miles reached a
+large fork of the river from the south; and after coming twenty miles,
+halted below the junction on the right side of the river: our arrival
+soon attracted the attention of the Indians, who flocked in all
+directions to see us. In the evening the Indian from the falls, whom we
+had seen at the Rugged rapid, joined us with his son in a small canoe,
+and insisted on accompanying us to the falls. Being again reduced to
+fish and roots we made an experiment to vary our food by purchasing*
+a few dogs, and after having been accustomed to horse-flesh, felt no
+disrelish to this new dish. The Chopunnish have great numbers of dogs
+which they employ for domestic purposes, but never eat; and our using
+the flesh of that animal soon brought us into ridicule as dog-eaters.
+
+The country at the junction of the two rivers is an open plain on all
+sides, broken towards the left by a distant ridge of highland, thinly
+covered with timber: this is the only body of timber which the country
+possesses; for at the forks there is not a tree to be seen, and during
+almost the whole descent of sixty miles down the Kooskooskee from its
+forks there are very few. This southern branch is in fact the main
+stream of Lewis's river on which we encamped when among the Shoshonees.
+The Indians inform us that it is navigable for sixty miles; that not far
+from its mouth it receives a branch from the south; and a second and
+larger branch, two days' march up, and nearly parallel to the first
+Chopunnish villages, we met near the mountains. This branch is called
+Pawnashte, and is the residence of a chief, who, according to their
+expression, has more horses than he can count. The river has many
+rapids, near which are situated many fishing camps; there being ten
+establishments of this before reaching the first southern branch; one
+on that stream, five between that and the Pawnashte; one on that river,
+and two above it; besides many other Indians who reside high up on the
+more distant waters of this river. All these Indians belong to the
+Chopunnish nation, and live in tents of an oblong form, covered with
+flat roofs.
+
+At its mouth Lewis's river is about two hundred and fifty yards wide,
+and its water is of a greenish blue colour. The Kooskooskee, whose
+waters are clear as crystal, one hundred and fifty yards in width, and
+after the union the river enlarges to the space of three hundred yards:
+at the point of the union is an Indian cabin, and in Lewis's river a
+small island.
+
+The Chopunnish or Pierced-nose nation, who reside on the Kooskooskee
+and Lewis's rivers, are in person stout, portly, well-looking men: the
+women are small, with good features, and generally handsome, though the
+complexion of both sexes is darker than that of the Tushepaws. In dress
+they resemble that nation, being fond of displaying their ornaments. The
+buffaloe or elk-skin robe decorated with beads, sea-shells, chiefly
+mother-of-pearl, attached to an otter-skin collar and hung in the hair,
+which falls in front in two queues; feathers, paints of different kinds,
+principally white, green, and light blue, all of which they find in
+their own country: these are the chief ornaments they use. In the winter
+they wear a short shirt of dressed skins, long painted leggings and
+moccasins, and a plait of twisted grass round the neck.
+
+The dress of the women is more simple, consisting of a long shirt of
+argalia or ibex skin, reaching down to the ankles without a girdle:
+to this are tied little pieces of brass and shells and other small
+articles; but the head is not at all ornamented. The dress of the female
+is indeed more modest, and more studiously so than any we have observed,
+though the other sex is careless of the indelicacy of exposure.
+
+The Chopunnish have very few amusements, for their life is painful and
+laborious; and all their exertions are necessary to earn even their
+precarious subsistence. During the summer and autumn they are busily
+occupied in fishing for salmon, and collecting their winter store
+of roots. In the winter they hunt the deer on snow shoes over the
+plains, and towards spring cross the mountains to the Missouri for the
+purpose of trafficking for buffaloe robes. The inconveniences of that
+comfortless life are increased by frequent encounters with their enemies
+from the west, who drive them over the mountains with the loss of their
+horses, and sometimes the lives of many of the nation. Though originally
+the same people, their dialect varies very perceptibly from that of
+the Tushepaws: their treatment to us differed much from the kind and
+disinterested services of the Shoshonees: they are indeed selfish and
+avaricious; they part very reluctantly with every article of food or
+clothing; and while they expect a recompense for every service however
+small, do not concern themselves about reciprocating any presents we may
+give them.
+
+They are generally healthy--the only disorders which we have had
+occasion to remark being of a scrophulous kind, and for these, as well
+as for the amusement of those who are in good health, hot and cold
+bathing is very commonly used.
+
+The soil of these prairies is of a light yellow clay intermixed with
+small smooth grass: it is barren, and produces little more than a
+bearded grass about three inches high, and a prickly pear, of which we
+now found three species: the first is of the broad-leafed kind, common
+to the Missouri. The second has the leaf of a globular form, and is also
+frequent on the upper part of the Missouri, particularly after it enters
+the Rocky mountains. The third is pecular to this country, and is much
+more inconvenient than the other two: it consists of small thick leaves
+of a circular form, which grow from the margin of each other as in the
+broad-leafed pear of the Missouri: these leaves are armed with a greater
+number of thorns, which are stronger, and appear to be barbed; and as
+the leaf itself is very slightly attached to the stem, as soon as one
+thorn touches the moccasin it adheres and brings with it the leaf, which
+is accompanied by a reenforecement of thorns.
+
+
+                            END OF VOLUME 1.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of History of the Expedition under the
+Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I., by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark
+
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+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of the HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION UNDER THE COMMAND OF
+      CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARK by MERIWETHER LEWIS
+    </title>
+
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of History of the Expedition under the Command
+of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I., by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I.
+       To The Sources Of The Missouri, Thence Across The Rocky
+              Mountains And Down The River Columbia To The Pacific Ocean.
+              Performed During The Years 1804-5-6.
+
+Author: Meriwether Lewis and William Clark
+
+Editor: Paul Allen
+
+Release Date: August 20, 2005 [EBook #16565]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LEWIS AND CLARK, I. ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by The Library of Congress, Marilynda
+Fraser-Cunliffe, Peter Barozzi and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+<div class="trans_note">
+<p class="center"><big>Transcriber's Note</big></p>
+<p>
+
+    Every effort has been made to replicate this text as faithfully as
+    possible, including obsolete and variant spellings and other
+    inconsistencies. Text that has been changed to correct an
+    obvious error by the publisher is marked with a
+    <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The original word would be shown here.">"hover note."</ins>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+
+<!-- ROUTE MAP -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_001_m.jpg" width="600" height="259"
+        alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+<!-- Route Legend (for reference purposes, if needed)
+
+<p>[Illustration: A Map of Lewis and Clark's Track,
+Across the Western Portion of North America,
+From the Mississippi to the Pacific Ocean;
+by Order of the Executive of the United States, in 1804. 5&amp;6.
+Copied by Samuel Lewis from the Original Drawing by Wm. Clark.]</p>
+
+-->
+
+
+
+
+<h1>HISTORY<br /></h1>
+
+<h2>OF<br /></h2>
+
+<h1>THE EXPEDITION<br /></h1>
+
+<p class="title">UNDER THE COMMAND OF<br /></p>
+
+<h2><i>CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARK,</i><br /></h2>
+
+<p class="title">TO<br /></p>
+
+<h2>THE SOURCES OF THE MISSOURI,<br /></h2>
+
+<p class="title">THENCE<br /></p>
+
+<h2>ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS<br /></h2>
+
+<p class="title">AND DOWN THE<br /></p>
+
+<h2>RIVER COLUMBIA TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.<br /></h2>
+
+<h3>PERFORMED DURING THE YEARS 1804-5-6.<br /><br /></h3>
+
+<p class="title">By order of the<br /></p>
+
+<h3>GOVERNMENT OF THE UNITED STATES.<br /><br /></h3>
+
+
+<p class="title">PREPARED FOR THE PRESS</p>
+
+<h3>BY PAUL ALLEN, ESQUIRE.<br /></h3>
+
+<p class="title">IN TWO VOLUMES.<br /><br />
+
+VOL. I.<br /><br />
+
+
+<i>PHILADELPHIA</i><br /><br />
+
+PUBLISHED BY BRADFORD AND INSKEEP; AND<br />
+ABM. H. INSKEEP, NEW YORK.<br />
+J. Maxwell, Printer<br />
+1814.<br /><br /><br /><br />
+</p>
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-27" id="Pg_-27" title="Pg_-27">[ii]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, to wit:</p>
+
+
+<p>BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the twenty-second day of January, in the
+thirty-eighth year of the independence of the United States of America, A.D.1814,
+Bradford and Inskeep, of the said district, have deposited in this office the title of a
+book, the right whereof they claim as proprietors, in the words following, to wit:</p>
+
+<p>"History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark,
+to the Sources of the Missouri, thence across the Rocky Mountains, and down the
+River Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. Performed during the Years 1804-5-6, by
+order of the Government of the United States. Prepared for the press by Paul
+Allen, Esquire."</p>
+
+<p>In conformity to the act of Congress of the United States, entitled "An act for
+the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books,
+to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned."
+And also to the act, entitled, "An act supplementary to an act, entitled, "An
+act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and
+books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned,"
+and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and
+etching historical and other prints."</p></div>
+
+
+<p class="sig_1">DAVID CALDWELL,<br /></p>
+<p class="sig_2">Clerk of the District of Pennsylvania.<br /></p>
+
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-26" id="Pg_-26" title="Pg_-26">[iii]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2>
+
+<p>In presenting these volumes to the public, the editor
+owes equally to himself and to others, to state the circumstances
+which have preceded the publication, and to explain
+his own share in compiling them.</p>
+
+<p>It was the original design of captain Lewis to have been
+himself the editor of his own travels, and he was on his
+way towards Philadelphia for that purpose when his sudden
+death frustrated these intentions. After a considerable
+and unavoidable delay, the papers connected with
+the expedition were deposited with another gentleman, who,
+in order to render the lapse of time as little injurious as possible,
+proceeded immediately to collect and investigate all
+the materials within his reach.</p>
+
+<p>Of the incidents of each day during the expedition, a minute
+journal was kept by captain Lewis or captain Clark,
+and sometimes by both, which was afterwards revised and
+enlarged at the different periods of leisure which occurred
+on the route. These were carefully perused in conjunction
+with captain Clark himself, who was able from his own recollection
+of the journey, as well as from a constant residence
+in Louisiana since his return, to supply a great mass of explanations,
+and much additional information with regard to
+part of the route which has been more recently explored.
+Besides these, recourse was had to the manuscript journals
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-25" id="Pg_-25" title="Pg_-25">[iv]</a></span>kept by two of the serjeants, one of which, the least minute
+and valuable, has already been published. That nothing
+might be wanting to the accuracy of these details, a very
+intelligent and active member of the party, Mr. George
+Shannon, was sent to contribute whatever his memory
+might add to this accumulated fund of information.</p>
+
+<p>From these copious materials the narrative was sketched
+nearly in its present form, when other pursuits diverted the
+attention of the writer, and compelled him to transfer his
+manuscript, in its unfinished state, with all the documents
+connected with it, to the present editor, to prepare them for
+the press and superintend the publication. That he may not
+seem to arrogate any thing from the exertions of others, he
+should therefore state that, although the whole work was
+thus submitted to his entire discretion, he found but little to
+change, and that his labour has been principally confined to
+revising the manuscript, comparing it with the original papers,
+and inserting such additional matter as appears to have
+been intentionally deferred by the writer till the period
+of a more mature revisal. These circumstances, which
+would otherwise be indifferent to the public, are mentioned
+merely to account for imperfections, which are in some
+degree inseparable from any book of travels not written
+by the traveller. In a work of pure description indeed,
+like the present, where the incidents themselves are
+the sole objects of attraction, the part of an editor is necessarily
+subordinate, nor can his humble pretensions aspire
+beyond the merit of rigid adherence to facts as they are
+stated to him. This has been very diligently attempted,
+and for this, in its full extent, the editor deems himself
+responsible.</p>
+
+<p>The present volumes, it will be perceived, comprise only
+the narrative of the journey. Those parts of the work which
+relate to the various objects of natural history, observed or
+collected during the journey, as well as the alphabets of the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-24" id="Pg_-24" title="Pg_-24">[v]</a></span>Indian languages, are in the hands of professor Bartou,
+and will, it is understood, shortly appear.</p>
+
+<p>To give still further interest to the work, the editor addressed
+a letter to Mr. Jefferson, requesting some authentic
+memoirs of captain Lewis. For the very curious and valuable
+information contained in his answer, the public, as well
+as the editor himself, owe great obligations to the politeness
+and knowledge of that distinguished gentleman.</p>
+
+
+<p class="sig_1">PAUL ALLEN.</p>
+<p><span class="smcap">Philadelphia</span>, January 1, 1814.<br /></p>
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-22" id="Pg_-22" title="Pg_-22">[vii]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="LIFE_OF_CAPTAIN_LEWIS" id="LIFE_OF_CAPTAIN_LEWIS"></a>LIFE OF CAPTAIN LEWIS.</h2>
+
+<p class="let_date"><i>Monticello, August</i> 18, 1813.</p>
+
+<p>SIR,</p>
+
+<p>In compliance with the request conveyed in your letter
+of May 25, I have endeavoured to obtain, from the relations
+and friends of the late governor Lewis, information of such
+incidents of his life as might be not unacceptable to those
+who may read the narrative of his western discoveries. The
+ordinary occurrences of a private life, and those also while
+acting in a subordinate sphere in the army, in a time of
+peace, are not deemed sufficiently interesting to occupy the
+public attention; but a general account of his parentage,
+with such smaller incidents as marked his early character
+are briefly noted; and to these are added, as being peculiarly
+within my own knowledge, whatever related to the public
+mission, of which an account is now to be published. The
+result of my inquiries and recollections shall now be offered,
+to be enlarged or abridged as you may think best; or otherwise
+to be used with the materials you may have collected
+from other sources.</p>
+
+<p>Meriwether Lewis, late governor of Louisiana, was born
+on the eighteenth of August, 1774, near the town of Charlottesville,
+in the county of Albemarle, in Virginia, of one
+of the distinguished families of that state. John Lewis, one
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-21" id="Pg_-21" title="Pg_-21">[viii]</a></span>of his father's uncles was a member of the king's council,
+before the revolution. Another of them, Fielding Lewis,
+married a sister of general Washington. His father, William
+Lewis, was the youngest of five sons of colonel Robert
+Lewis, of Albemarle, the fourth of whom, Charles, was one
+of the early patriots who stepped forward in the commencement
+of the revolution and commanded one of the regiments
+first raised in Virginia, and placed on continental establishment.
+Happily situated at home, with a wife and young
+family, and a fortune placing him at ease, he left all to aid
+in the liberation of his country from foreign usurpations,
+then first unmasking their ultimate end and aim. His good
+sense, integrity, bravery, enterprise, and remarkable bodily
+powers, marked him as an officer of great promise; but he
+unfortunately died early in the revolution. Nicholas Lewis,
+the second of his father's brothers, commanded a regiment
+of militia in the successful expedition of 1776, against the
+Cherokee Indians; who, seduced by the agents of the British
+government to take up the hatchet against us, had committed
+great havoc on our southern frontier, by murdering and
+scalping helpless women and children, according to their
+cruel and cowardly principles of warfare. The chastisement
+they then received closed the history of their wars, and prepared
+them for receiving the elements of civilization, which,
+zealously inculcated by the present government of the United
+States, have rendered them an industrious, peaceable,
+and happy people. This member of the family of Lewises,
+whose bravery was so usefully proved on this occasion, was
+endeared to all who knew him by his inflexible probity,
+courteous disposition, benevolent heart, and engaging modesty
+and manners. He was the umpire of all the private
+differences of his county&mdash;selected always by both parties.
+He was also the guardian of Meriwether Lewis, of whom
+we are now to speak, and who had lost his father at an early
+age. He continued some years under the fostering care of a
+tender mother, of the respectable family of Meriwethers,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-20" id="Pg_-20" title="Pg_-20">[ix]</a></span>of the same county; and was remarkable even in infancy
+for enterprise, boldness, and discretion. When only eight
+years of age he habitually went out, in the dead of night,
+alone with his dogs, into the forest to hunt the raccoon and
+opossum, which, seeking their food in the night, can then
+only be taken. In this exercise, no season or circumstance
+could obstruct his purpose&mdash;plunging through the winter's
+snows and frozen streams in pursuit of his object. At thirteen
+he was put to the Latin school, and continued at that
+until eighteen, when he returned to his mother, and entered
+on the cares of his farm; having, as well as a younger brother,
+been left by his father with a competency for all the
+correct and comfortable purposes of temperate life. His talent
+for observation, which had led him to an accurate knowledge
+of the plants and animals of his own country, would
+have distinguished him as a farmer; but at the age of twenty,
+yielding to the ardour of youth, and a passion for more
+dazzling pursuits, he engaged as a volunteer in the body of
+militia which were called out by general Washington, on
+occasion of the discontents produced by the excise taxes in
+the western parts of the United States; and from that situation
+he was removed to the regular service as a lieutenant
+in the line. At twenty-three he was promoted to a captaincy;
+and, always attracting the first attention where punctuality
+and fidelity were requisite, he was appointed paymaster
+to his regiment. About this time a circumstance occurred
+which, leading to the transaction which is the subject
+of this book, will justify a recurrence to its original idea.
+While I resided in Paris, John Ledyard, of Connecticut, arrived
+there, well known in the United States for energy of
+body and mind. He had accompanied captain Cook on his
+voyage to the Pacific ocean; and distinguished himself on
+that voyage by his intrepidity. Being of a roaming disposition,
+he was now panting for some new enterprise. His
+immediate object at Paris was to engage a mercantile company
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-19" id="Pg_-19" title="Pg_-19">[x]</a></span>in the fur-trade of the western coast of America, in
+which, however, he failed. I then proposed to him to go by
+land to Kamschatka, cross in some of the Russian vessels to
+Nootka Sound, fall down into the latitude of the Missouri,
+and penetrate to, and through, that to the United States.
+He eagerly seized the idea, and only asked to be assured of
+the permission of the Russian government. I interested, in
+obtaining that, M. de Simoulin, minister plenipotentiary of
+the empress at Paris, but more especially the baron de
+Grimm, minister plenipotentiary of Saxe-Gotha, her more
+special agent and correspondent there in matters not immediately
+diplomatic. Her permission was obtained, and an
+assurance of protection while the course of the voyage
+should be through her territories. Ledyard set out from
+Paris, and arrived at St. Petersburgh after the empress had
+left that place to pass the winter, I think, at Moscow. His
+finances not permitting him to make unnecessary stay at St.
+Petersburgh, he left it with a passport from one of the ministers;
+and at two hundred miles from Kamschatka, was
+obliged to take up his winter quarters. He was preparing,
+in the spring, to resume his journey, when he was arrested
+by an officer of the empress, who by this time had changed
+her mind, and forbidden his proceeding. He was put into a
+close carriage, and conveyed day and night, without ever
+stopping, till they reached Poland; where he was set down
+and left to himself. The fatigue of this journey broke down
+his constitution; and when he returned to Paris his bodily
+strength was much impaired. His mind, however, remained
+firm, and he after this undertook the journey to Egypt. I
+received a letter from him, full of sanguine hopes, dated at
+Cairo, the fifteenth of November, 1788, the day before he
+was to set out for the head of the Nile; on which day, however,
+he ended his career and life: and thus failed the first
+attempt to explore the western part of our northern continent.</p>
+
+<p>In 1792, I proposed to the American Philosophical Society
+that we should set on foot a subscription to engage some
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-18" id="Pg_-18" title="Pg_-18">[xi]</a></span>competent person to explore that region in the opposite direction;
+that is, by ascending the Missouri, crossing the Stony
+mountains, and descending the nearest river to the Pacific.
+Captain Lewis being then stationed at Charlottesville,
+on the recruiting service, warmly solicited me to obtain for
+him the execution of that object. I told him it was proposed
+that the person engaged should be attended by a single
+companion only, to avoid exciting alarm among the Indians.
+This did not deter him; but Mr. Andre Michaux, a
+professed botanist, author of the Flora Boreali-Americana,
+and of the Histoire des Chesnes d'Amerique, offering his
+services, they were accepted. He received his instructions,
+and when he had reached Kentucky in the prosecution of
+his journey, he was overtaken by an order from the minister
+of France, then at Philadelphia, to relinquish the expedition,
+and to pursue elsewhere the botanical inquiries on
+which he was employed by that government: and thus failed
+the second attempt for exploring that region.</p>
+
+<p>In 1803, the act for establishing trading houses with the
+Indian tribes being about to expire, some modifications of it
+were recommended to congress by a confidential message of
+January 18th, and an extension of its views to the Indians
+on the Missouri. In order to prepare the way, the message
+proposed the sending an exploring party to trace the Missouri
+to its source, to cross the Highlands, and follow the
+best water-communication which offered itself from thence
+to the Pacific ocean. Congress approved the proposition,
+and voted a sum of money for carrying it into execution.
+Captain Lewis, who had then been near two years with me
+as private secretary, immediately renewed his solicitations
+to have the direction of the party. I had now had opportunities
+of knowing him intimately. Of courage undaunted;
+possessing a firmness and perseverance of purpose which
+nothing but impossibilities could divert from its direction;
+careful as a father of those committed to his charge, yet
+steady in the maintenance of order and discipline; intimate
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-17" id="Pg_-17" title="Pg_-17">[xii]</a></span>with the Indian character, customs, and principles; habituated
+to the hunting life; guarded, by exact observation of
+the vegetables and animals of his own country, against losing
+time in the description of objects already possessed; honest,
+disinterested, liberal, of sound understanding, and a fidelity
+to truth so scrupulous, that whatever he should report would
+be as certain as if seen by ourselves; with all these qualifications,
+as if selected and implanted by nature in one body
+for this express purpose, I could have no hesitation in confiding
+the enterprise to him. To fill up the measure desired,
+he wanted nothing but a greater familiarity with the technical
+language of the natural sciences, and readiness in the
+astronomical observations necessary for the geography of
+his route. To acquire these he repaired immediately to
+Philadelphia, and placed himself under the tutorage of the
+distinguished professors of that place, who with a zeal and
+emulation, enkindled by an ardent devotion to science, communicated
+to him freely the information requisite for the
+purposes of the journey. While attending too, at Lancaster,
+the fabrication of the arms with which he chose that
+his men should be provided, he had the benefit of daily communication
+with Mr. Andrew Ellicot, whose experience in
+astronomical observation, and practice of it in the woods,
+enabled him to apprise captain Lewis of the wants and difficulties
+he would encounter, and of the substitutes and resources
+offered by a woodland and uninhabited country.</p>
+
+<p>Deeming it necessary he should have some person with
+him of known competence to the direction of the enterprise,
+in the event of accident to himself, he proposed William
+Clarke, brother of general George Rogers Clarke, who was
+approved, and, with that view, received a commission of
+captain.</p>
+
+<p>In April, 1803, a draught of his instructions was sent to
+captain Lewis, and on the twentieth of June they were signed
+in the following form:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-16" id="Pg_-16" title="Pg_-16">[xiii]</a></span>"To Meriwether Lewis, esquire, captain of the first regiment
+of infantry of the United States of America:</p>
+
+<p>"Your situation as secretary of the president of the United
+States, has made you acquainted with the objects of my
+confidential message of January 18, 1803, to the legislature;
+you have seen the act they passed, which, though expressed
+in general terms, was meant to sanction those objects, and
+you are appointed to carry them into execution.</p>
+
+<p>"Instruments for ascertaining, by celestial observations,
+the geography of the country through which you will pass,
+have been already provided. Light articles for barter and
+presents among the Indians, arms for your attendants, say
+for from ten to twelve men, boats, tents, and other travelling
+apparatus, with ammunition, medicine, surgical instruments,
+and provisions, you will have prepared, with such aids
+as the secretary at war can yield in his department; and from
+him also you will receive authority to engage among our
+troops, by voluntary agreement, the number of attendants
+abovementioned; over whom you, as their commanding officer,
+are invested with all the powers the laws give in such
+a case.</p>
+
+<p>"As your movements, while within the limits of the United
+States, will be better directed by occasional communications,
+adapted to circumstances as they arise, they will
+not be noticed here. What follows will respect your proceedings
+after your departure from the United States.</p>
+
+<p>"Your mission has been communicated to the ministers
+here from France, Spain, and Great Britain, and through
+them to their governments; and such assurances given them
+as to its objects, as we trust will satisfy them. The country
+of Louisiana having been ceded by Spain to France, the
+passport you have from the minister of France, the representative
+of the present sovereign of the country, will be a
+protection with all its subjects; and that from the minister
+of England will entitle you to the friendly aid of any traders
+of that allegiance with whom you may happen to meet.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-15" id="Pg_-15" title="Pg_-15">[xiv]</a></span>"The object of your mission is to explore the Missouri
+river, and such principal streams of it, as, by its course and
+communication with the waters of the Pacific ocean, whether
+the Columbia, Oregan, Colorado, or any other river,
+may offer the most direct and practicable water-communication
+across the continent, for the purposes of commerce.</p>
+
+<p>"Beginning at the mouth of the Missouri, you will take
+observations of latitude and longitude, at all remarkable
+points on the river, and especially at the mouths of rivers,
+at rapids, at islands, and other places and objects distinguished
+by such natural marks and characters, of a durable
+kind, as that they may with certainty be recognised hereafter.
+The courses of the river between these points of observation
+may be supplied by the compass, the log-line, and by
+time, corrected by the observations themselves. The variations
+of the needle, too, in different places, should be noticed.</p>
+
+<p>"The interesting points of the portage between the heads
+of the Missouri, and of the water offering the best communication
+with the Pacific ocean, should also be fixed by observation;
+and the course of that water to the ocean, in the
+same manner as that of the Missouri.</p>
+
+<p>"Your observations are to be taken with great pains and
+accuracy; to be entered distinctly and intelligibly for others
+as well as yourself; to comprehend all the elements necessary,
+with the aid of the usual tables, to fix the latitude and
+longitude of the places at which they were taken; and are to
+be rendered to the war-office, for the purpose of having the
+calculations made concurrently by proper persons within the
+United States. Several copies of these, as well as of your
+other notes, should be made at leisure times, and put into
+the care of the most trust-worthy of your attendants to
+guard, by multiplying them against the accidental losses to
+which they will be exposed. A further guard would be, that
+one of these copies be on the cuticular membranes of the
+paper-birch, as less liable to injury from damp than common
+paper.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-14" id="Pg_-14" title="Pg_-14">[xv]</a></span>"The commerce which may be carried on with the people
+inhabiting the line you will pursue, renders a knowledge
+of those people important. You will therefore endeavour
+to make yourself acquainted, as far as a diligent pursuit of
+your journey shall admit, with the names of the nations and
+their numbers;</p>
+
+<p>"The extent and limits of their possessions;</p>
+
+<p>"Their relations with other tribes or nations;</p>
+
+<p>"Their language, traditions, monuments;</p>
+
+<p>"Their ordinary occupations in agriculture, fishing,
+hunting, war, arts, and the implements for these;</p>
+
+<p>"Their food, clothing, and domestic accommodations;</p>
+
+<p>"The diseases prevalent among them, and the remedies
+they use;</p>
+
+<p>"Moral and physical circumstances which distinguish
+them from the tribes we know;</p>
+
+<p>"Peculiarities in their laws, customs, and dispositions;</p>
+
+<p>"And articles of commerce they may need or furnish,
+and to what extent.</p>
+
+<p>"And, considering the interest which every nation has
+in extending and strengthening the authority of reason and
+justice among the people around them, it will be useful to
+acquire what knowledge you can of the state of morality,
+religion, and information among them; as it may better enable
+those who may endeavour to civilize and instruct them,
+to adapt their measures to the existing notions and practices
+of those on whom they are to operate.</p>
+
+<p>"Other objects worthy of notice will be&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"The soil and face of the country, its growth and vegetable
+productions, especially those not of the United States;</p>
+
+<p>"The animals of the country generally, and especially
+those not known in the United States;</p>
+
+<p>"The remains and accounts of any which may be deemed
+rare or extinct;</p>
+
+<p>"The mineral productions of every kind, but more particularly
+metals, lime-stone, pit-coal, and saltpetre; salines
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-13" id="Pg_-13" title="Pg_-13">[xvi]</a></span>and mineral waters, noting the temperature of the last, and
+such circumstances as may indicate their character;</p>
+
+<p>"Volcanic appearances;</p>
+
+<p>"Climate, as characterized by the thermometer, by the
+proportion of rainy, cloudy, and clear days; by lightning,
+hail, snow, ice; by the access and recess of frost; by the
+winds prevailing at different seasons; the dates at which particular
+plants put forth, or lose their flower or leaf; times
+of appearance of particular birds, reptiles or insects.</p>
+
+<p>"Although your route will be along the channel of the
+Missouri, yet you will endeavour to inform yourself, by inquiry,
+of the character and extent of the country watered
+by its branches, and especially on its southern side. The
+North river, or Rio Bravo, which runs into the gulf of
+Mexico, and the North river, or Rio Colorado, which runs
+into the gulf of California, are understood to be the principal
+streams heading opposite to the waters of the Missouri,
+and running southwardly. Whether the dividing
+grounds between the Missouri and them are mountains or
+flat lands, what are their distance from the Missouri, the
+character of the intermediate country, and the people inhabiting
+it, are worthy of particular inquiry. The northern
+waters of the Missouri are less to be inquired after, because
+they have been ascertained to a considerable degree, and are
+still in a course of ascertainment by English traders and
+travellers; but if you can learn any thing certain of the most
+northern source of the Missisipi, and of its position relatively
+to the Lake of the Woods, it will be interesting to us.
+Some account too of the path of the Canadian traders from
+the Missisipi, at the mouth of the Onisconsing to where
+it strikes the Missouri, and of the soil and rivers in its course,
+is desirable.</p>
+
+<p>"In all your intercourse with the natives, treat them in
+the most friendly and conciliatory manner which their own
+conduct will admit; allay all jealousies as to the object of
+your journey; satisfy them of its innocence; make them acquainted
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-12" id="Pg_-12" title="Pg_-12">[xvii]</a></span>with the position, extent, character, peaceable and
+commercial dispositions of the United States; of our wish to
+be neighbourly, friendly, and useful to them, and of our dispositions
+to a commercial intercourse with them; confer
+with them on the points most convenient as mutual emporiums,
+and the articles of most desirable interchange for them
+and us. If a few of their influential chiefs, within practicable
+distance, wish to visit us, arrange such a visit with them,
+and furnish them with authority to call on our officers on
+their entering the United States, to have them conveyed to
+this place at the public expense. If any of them should wish
+to have some of their young people brought up with us, and
+taught such arts as may be useful to them, we will receive,
+instruct, and take care of them. Such a mission, whether
+of influential chiefs, or of young people, would give some
+security to your own party. Carry with you some matter
+of the kine-pox; inform those of them with whom you may
+be of its efficacy as a preservative from the small-pox, and
+instruct and encourage them in the use of it. This may be
+especially done wherever you winter.</p>
+
+<p>"As it is impossible for us to foresee in what manner you
+will be received by those people, whether with hospitality
+or hostility, so is it impossible to prescribe the exact degree
+of perseverance with which you are to pursue your journey.
+We value too much the lives of citizens to offer them to probable
+destruction. Your numbers will be sufficient to secure
+you against the unauthorized opposition of individuals,
+or of small parties; but if a superior force, authorized, or
+not authorized, by a nation, should be arrayed against your
+further passage, and inflexibly determined to arrest it, you
+must decline its further pursuit and return. In the loss of
+yourselves we should lose also the information you will have
+acquired. By returning safely with that, you may enable
+us to renew the essay with better calculated means. To your
+own discretion, therefore, must be left the degree of danger
+you may risk, and the point at which you should decline,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-11" id="Pg_-11" title="Pg_-11">[xviii]</a></span>only saying, we wish you to err on the side of your safety,
+and to bring back your party safe, even if it be with less
+information.</p>
+
+<p>"As far up the Missouri as the white settlements extend,
+an intercourse will probably be found to exist between
+them and the Spanish posts of St. Louis opposite Cahokia,
+or St. Genevieve opposite Kaskaskia. From still further
+up the river the traders may furnish a conveyance for letters.
+Beyond that you may perhaps be able to engage Indians
+to bring letters for the government to Cahokia, or
+Kaskaskia, on promising that they shall there receive such
+special compensation as you shall have stipulated with them.
+Avail yourself of these means to communicate to us, at seasonable
+intervals, a copy of your journal, notes and observations
+of every kind, putting into cypher whatever might
+do injury if betrayed.</p>
+
+<p>"Should you reach the Pacific ocean, inform yourself of
+the circumstances which may decide whether the furs of
+those parts may not be collected as advantageously at the
+head of the Missouri (convenient as is supposed to the waters
+of the Colorado and Oregan or Columbia) as at Nootka
+Sound, or any other point of that coast; and that trade be
+consequently conducted through the Missouri and United
+States more beneficially than by the circumnavigation now
+practised.</p>
+
+<p>"On your arrival on that coast, endeavour to learn if
+there be any port within your reach frequented by the sea
+vessels of any nation, and to send two of your trusty people
+back by sea, in such way as shall appear practicable, with a
+copy of your notes; and should you be of opinion that the
+return of your party by the way they went will be imminently
+dangerous, then ship the whole, and return by sea,
+by the way either of Cape Horn, or the Cape of Good Hope,
+as you shall be able. As you will be without money, clothes,
+or provisions, you must endeavour to use the credit of the
+United States to obtain them; for which purpose open letters
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-10" id="Pg_-10" title="Pg_-10">[xix]</a></span>of credit shall be furnished you, authorizing you to draw on
+the executive of the United States, or any of its officers, in
+any part of the world, on which draughts can be disposed
+of, and to apply with our recommendations to the consuls,
+agents, merchants, or citizens of any nation with which we
+have intercourse, assuring them, in our name, that any aids
+they may furnish you shall be honourably repaid, and on
+demand. Our consuls, Thomas Hewes, at Batavia, in Java,
+William Buchanan, in the Isles of France and Bourbon, and
+John Elmslie, at the Cape of Good Hope, will be able to
+supply your necessities, by draughts on us.</p>
+
+<p>"Should you find it safe to return by the way you go,
+after sending two of your party round by sea, or with your
+whole party, if no conveyance by sea can be found, do so;
+making such observations on your return as may serve to
+supply, correct, or confirm those made on your outward
+journey.</p>
+
+<p>"On reentering the United States and reaching a place
+of safety, discharge any of your attendants who may desire
+and deserve it, procuring for them immediate payment of all
+arrears of pay and clothing which may have incurred since
+their departure, and assure them that they shall be recommended
+to the liberality of the legislature for the grant of
+a soldier's portion of land each, as proposed in my message
+to congress, and repair yourself, with your papers, to the
+seat of government.</p>
+
+<p>"To provide, on the accident of your death, against anarchy,
+dispersion, and the consequent danger to your party,
+and total failure of the enterprise, you are hereby authorized,
+by any instrument signed and written in your own
+hand, to name the person among them who shall succeed to
+the command on your decease, and by like instruments to
+change the nomination, from time to time, as further experience
+of the characters accompanying you shall point out
+superior fitness; and all the powers and authorities given to
+yourself are, in the event of your death, transferred to, and
+vested <span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-9" id="Pg_-9" title="Pg_-9">[xx]</a></span>in the successor so named, with further power to him
+and his successors, in like manner to name each his successor,
+who, on the death of his predecessor, shall be invested
+with all the powers and authorities given to yourself. Given
+under my hand at the city of Washington, this twentieth
+day of June, 1803.</p></div>
+
+
+<p class="sig_1">"<span class="smcap">Thomas Jefferson,</span></p>
+<p class="sig_2">"<i>President of the United States of America</i>."<br /></p>
+
+
+<p>While these things were going on here, the country of
+Louisiana, lately ceded by Spain to France, had been the
+subject of negotiation at Paris between us and this last
+power; and had actually been transferred to us by treaties
+executed at Paris on the thirtieth of April. This information,
+received about the first day of July, increased infinitely
+the interest we felt in the expedition, and lessened the
+apprehensions of interruption from other powers. Every
+thing in this quarter being now prepared, captain Lewis left
+Washington on the fifth of July, 1803, and proceeded to
+Pittsburg, where other articles had been ordered to be provided
+for him. The men too were to be selected from the
+military stations on the Ohio. Delays of preparation, difficulties
+of navigation down the Ohio, and other untoward
+obstructions, retarded his arrival at Cahokia until the season
+was so far advanced as to render it prudent to suspend
+his entering the Missouri before the ice should break up in
+the succeeding spring.</p>
+
+<p>From this time his journal, now published, will give the
+history of his journey to and from the Pacific ocean, until
+his return to St. Louis on the twenty-third of September,
+1806. Never did a similar event excite more joy through
+the United States. The humblest of its citizens had taken
+a lively interest in the issue of this journey, and looked forward
+with impatience for the information it would furnish.
+Their anxieties too for the safety of the corps had been kept
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-8" id="Pg_-8" title="Pg_-8">[xxi]</a></span>in a state of excitement by lugubrious rumours, circulated
+from time to time on uncertain authorities, and uncontradicted
+by letters, or other direct information, from the time
+they had left the Mandan towns, on their ascent up the river
+in April of the preceding year, 1805, until their actual
+return to St. Louis.</p>
+
+<p>It was the middle of February, 1807, before captain Lewis,
+with his companion captain Clarke, reached the city of
+Washington, where congress was then in session. That
+body granted to the two chiefs and their followers the donation
+of lands which they had been encouraged to expect in
+reward of their toil and dangers. Captain Lewis was
+soon after appointed governor of Louisiana, and captain
+Clarke a general of its militia, and agent of the United
+States for Indian affairs in that department.</p>
+
+<p>A considerable time intervened before the governor's
+arrival at St. Louis. He found the territory distracted by
+feuds and contentions among the officers of the government,
+and the people themselves divided by these into factions and
+parties. He determined at once to take no side with either;
+but to use every endeavour to conciliate and harmonize them.
+The even-handed justice he administered to all soon established
+a respect for his person and authority; and perseverance
+and time wore down animosities, and reunited the
+citizens again into one family.</p>
+
+<p>Governor Lewis had, from early life, been subject to hypochondriac
+affections. It was a constitutional disposition
+in all the nearer branches of the family of his name, and
+was more immediately inherited by him from his father.
+They had not, however, been so strong as to give uneasiness
+to his family. While he lived with me in Washington I
+observed at times sensible depressions of mind: but knowing
+their constitutional source, I estimated their course by what
+I had seen in the family. During his western expedition,
+the constant exertion which that required of all the faculties
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-7" id="Pg_-7" title="Pg_-7">[xxii]</a></span>of body and mind, suspended these distressing affections; but
+after his establishment at St. Louis in sedentary occupations,
+they returned upon him with redoubled vigour, and
+began seriously to alarm his friends. He was in a paroxysm
+of one of these, when his affairs rendered it necessary for
+him to go to Washington. He proceeded to the Chickasaw
+Bluffs, where he arrived on the sixteenth of September,
+1809, with a view of continuing his journey thence by water.
+Mr. Neely, agent of the United States with the Chickasaw
+Indians, arriving there two days after, found him extremely
+indisposed, and betraying at times some symptoms of a derangement
+of mind. The rumours of a war with England,
+and apprehensions that he might lose the papers he was
+bringing on, among which were the vouchers of his public
+accounts, and the journals and papers of his western expedition,
+induced him here to change his mind, and to take
+his course by land through the Chickasaw country. Although
+he appeared somewhat relieved, Mr. Neely kindly
+determined to accompany and watch over him. Unfortunately,
+at their encampment, after having passed the Tennessee
+one day's journey, they lost two horses, which obliging
+Mr. Neely to halt for their recovery, the governor proceeded,
+under a promise to wait for him at the house of the
+first white inhabitant on his road. He stopped at the house
+of a Mr. Grinder, who not being at home, his wife, alarmed
+at the symptoms of derangement she discovered, gave him
+up the house and retired to rest herself in an out-house, the
+governor's and Neely's servants lodging in another. About
+three o'clock in the night he did the deed which plunged his
+friends into affliction, and deprived his country of one of her
+most valued citizens, whose valour and intelligence would
+have been now employed in avenging the wrongs of his country,
+and in emulating by land the splendid deeds which have
+honoured her arms on the ocean. It lost too to the nation
+the benefit of receiving from his own hand the narrative
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-6" id="Pg_-6" title="Pg_-6">[xxiii]</a></span>now offered them of his sufferings and successes, in endeavouring
+to extend for them the boundaries of science, and
+to present to their knowledge that vast and fertile country,
+which their sons are destined to fill with arts, with science,
+with freedom and happiness.</p>
+
+<p>To this melancholy close of the life of one, whom posterity
+will declare not to have lived in vain, I have only to add,
+that all the facts I have stated are either known to myself,
+or communicated by his family or others, for whose truth I
+have no hesitation to make myself responsible; and I conclude
+with tendering you the assurances of my respect and
+consideration.</p>
+
+<p class="sig_1">TH. JEFFERSON.<br /><br /></p>
+<p>Mr. <span class="smcap">Paul Allen</span>, Philadelphia.<br /><br /></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+
+<!-- TABLE OF CONTENTS -->
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-4" id="Pg_-4" title="Pg_-4">[xxv]</a></span></div>
+
+<h2><a name="contents" id="contents"></a>CONTENTS.<br /></h2>
+<h2>VOL. I.<br /></h2>
+
+<div class="centered"><table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="ToC">
+<tr><td></td><td></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER I.</big></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocel">
+    The party set out on the expedition and pass Wood river. Description of
+    the town of St. Charles. Osage Woman river. Gasconade and Osage rivers
+    described. Character of the Osage Indians; curious traditionary account of
+    their origin. The party proceed and pass the Mine river. The two Charitons.
+    The Kanzas, Nodawa, Newahaw, Neeshuabatona, Little Nemahar,
+    each of which are particularly described. They encamp at the mouth of the
+    river Platte. A particular description of the surrounding country. The various
+    creeks, bays, islands, prairies, &amp;c. given in the course of the route.</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_1">1</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER II.</big></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocel">
+    Some account of the Pawnee Indians. Council held with the Otto and
+    Missouri Indians. Council held with another party of the Ottoes. Death of
+    sergeant Floyd. The party encamp near the mouth of Whitestone river.
+    The character of the Missouri, with the rivers that enter it. The surrounding
+    country. The various islands, bays, creeks, &amp;c. given in the course of
+    the expedition.</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_32">32</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER III.</big></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocel">
+    Whimsical instance of superstition of the Sioux Indians. Council held with
+    the Sioux. Character of that tribe, their manners, &amp;c. A ridiculous instance
+    of their heroism. Ancient fortifications. Quieurre river described. Vast
+    herds of Buffaloe. Account of the Petit Chien or Little Dog. Narrow escape
+    of George Shannon. Description of White river. Surprising fleetness
+    of the antelope. Pass the river of the Sioux. Description of the Grand Le
+    Tour, or Great Bend. Encamp on the Teton river.</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_52">52</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER IV.</big></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocel">
+    Council held with the Tetons. Their manners, dances, &amp;c. Cheyenne
+    river described. Council held with the Ricara Indians. Their manners and
+    habits. Strange instance of Ricara idolatry. Another instance. Cannonball
+    river. Arrival among the Mandans. Character of the surrounding country,
+    and of the creeks, islands, &amp;c.</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_82">82</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER V.</big></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocel">
+    Council held with the Mandans. A prairie on fire, and a singular instance
+    of preservation. Peace established between the Mandans and Ricaras. The
+    party encamp for the winter. Indian mode of catching goats. Beautiful appearance
+    of northern lights. Friendly character of the Indians. Some account
+    of the Mandans. The Anahaways and the Minnetarees. The party<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-3" id="Pg_-3" title="Pg_-3">[xxvi]</a></span>
+    acquire the confidence of the Mandans by taking part in their controversy
+    with the Sioux. Religion of the Mandans, and their singular conception of
+    the term medicine. Their tradition. The sufferings of the party from the
+    severity of the season. Indian game of billiards described. Character of
+    the Missouri, of the surrounding country, and of the rivers, creeks, islands,
+    &amp;c.</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_118">118</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER VI.</big></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocel">
+    The party increase in the favour of the Mandans. Description of a
+    buffaloe dance. Medicine dance. The fortitude with which the Indians
+    bear the severity of the season. Distress of the party for want of
+    provisions. The great importance of the blacksmith in procuring it.
+    Depredations of the Sioux. The homage paid to the medicine stone.
+    Summary act of justice among the Minnetarees. The process by which
+    the Mandans and Ricaras make beads. Character of the Missouri, of
+    the surrounding country, and of the rivers, creeks, islands, &amp;c.</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_148">148</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER VII.</big></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocel">
+    Indian method of attacking the buffaloe on the ice. An enumeration
+    of the presents sent to the president of the United States. The
+    party are visited by a Ricara chief. They leave their encampment,
+    and proceed on their journey. Description of the Little Missouri.
+    Some account of the Assiniboins. Their mode of burying the dead.
+    Whiteearth river described. Great quantity of salt discovered on its
+    banks. Yellowstone river described. A particular account of the
+    country at the confluence of the Yellowstone and Missouri.
+    Description of the Missouri, the surrounding country, and of the
+    rivers, creeks, islands, &amp;c.</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_174">174</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER VIII.</big></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocel">
+    Unusual appearance of salt. The formidable character of the white
+    bear. Porcupine river described. Beautiful appearance of the
+    surrounding country. Immense quantities of game. Milk river
+    described. Extraordinary character of Bigdry river. An instance of
+    uncommon tenacity of life in a white bear. Narrow escape of one of
+    the party from that animal. A still more remarkable instance.
+    Muscleshell river described.</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_199">199</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER IX.</big></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocel">
+    The party continue their route. Description of Judith river. Indian
+    mode of taking the buffaloe. Slaughter river described. Phenomena of
+    nature. Of walls on the banks of the Missouri. The party encamp on
+    the banks of the river to ascertain which of the streams constitute
+    the Missouri. Captain Lewis leaves the party to explore the northern
+    fork, and captain Clarke explores the southern. The surrounding
+    country described in the route of captain Lewis. Narrow escape of
+    one of his party.</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_225">225</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER X.</big></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocel">
+    Return of captain Lewis. Account of captain Clarke's researches with
+    his exploring party. Perilous situation of one of his party. Tansy
+    river described. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-2" id="Pg_-2" title="Pg_-2">[xxvii]</a></span>The party still believing the southern fork the
+    Missouri, captain Lewis is resolves to ascend it. Mode of making a
+    place to deposit provisions, called cache. Captain Lewis explores
+    the southern fork. Falls of the Missouri discovered, which
+    ascertains the question. Romantic scenery of the surrounding
+    country. Narrow escape of captain Lewis. The main body under captain
+    Clarke approach within five miles of the falls, and prepare for
+    making a portage over the rapids.</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_251">251</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER XI.</big></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocel">
+    Description and romantic appearance of the Missouri at the junction
+    of the Medicine river. The difficulty of transporting the baggage at
+    the falls. The party employed in the construction of a boat of
+    skins. The embarrassments they had to encounter for the want of
+    proper materials. During the work the party much troubled by white
+    bears. Violent hail-storm, and providential escape of captain Clarke
+    and his party. Description of a remarkable fountain. Singular
+    explosion heard from the Black mountains. The boat found to be
+    insufficient, and the serious disappointment of the party. Captain
+    Clarke undertakes to repair the damage by building canoes, and
+    accomplishes the task.</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_275">275</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER XII.</big></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocel">
+    The party embark on board the canoes. Description of Smith's river.
+    Character of the country, &amp;c. Dearborne's river described.
+    Captain Clarke precedes the party for the purpose of discovering the
+    Indians of the Rocky mountains. Magnificent rocky appearances on the
+    borders of the river denominated the Gates of the Rocky mountains.
+    Captain Clarke arrives at the three forks of the Missouri without
+    overtaking the Indians. The party arrive at the three forks, of
+    which a peculiar and interesting description is given.</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_301">301</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER XIII.</big></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocel">
+    The name of the Missouri changed, as the river now divides itself
+    into three forks, one of which is called after Jefferson, the other
+    Madison, and the other after Gallatin. Their general character. The
+    party ascend the Jefferson branch. Description of the river
+    Philosophy which enters into the Jefferson. Captain Lewis and a
+    small party go in advance in search of the Shoshonees. Description
+    of the country, &amp;c. bordering on the river. Captain Lewis still
+    preceding the main party in quest of the Shoshonees. A singular
+    accident which prevented captain Clarke from following captain
+    Lewis's advice, and ascending the middle fork of the river.
+    Description of Philanthropy river, another stream running into the
+    Jefferson. Captain Lewis and a small party having been unsuccessful
+    in their first attempt, set off a second time in quest of the
+    Shoshonees.</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_328">328</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER XIV.</big></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocel">
+    Captain Lewis proceeds before the main body in search of the
+    Shoshonees; his ill success on the first interview. The party with
+    captain Lewis at length <span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-1" id="Pg_-1" title="Pg_-1">[xxviii]</a></span>discover the source of the Missouri. Captain
+    Clarke with the main body still employed in ascending the Missouri
+    or Jefferson river. Captain Lewis's second interview with the
+    Shoshonees attended with success. The interesting ceremonies of his
+    first introduction to the natives, detailed at large. Their
+    hospitality. Their mode of hunting the antelope. The difficulties
+    encountered by captain Clarke and the main body in ascending the
+    river. The suspicions entertained of captain Lewis by the
+    Shoshonees, and his mode of allaying them. The ravenous appetites of
+    the savages illustrated by singular adventure. The Indians still
+    jealous, and the great pains taken by captain Lewis to preserve
+    their confidence. Captain Clarke arrives with the main body
+    exhausted by the difficulties they underwent.</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_354">354</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER XV.</big></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocel">
+    Affecting interview between the wife of Chaboneau and the chief of
+    the Shoshonees. Council held with that nation, and favourable
+    result. The extreme navigable point of the Missouri mentioned.
+    General character of the river and of the country through which it
+    passes. Captain Clarke in exploring the source of the Columbia falls
+    in company with another party of Shoshonees. The geographical
+    information acquired from one of that party. Their manner of
+    catching fish. The party reach Lewis river. The difficulties which
+    captain Clarke had to encounter in his route. Friendship and
+    hospitality of the Shoshonees. The party with captain Lewis employed
+    in making saddles, and preparing for the journey.</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_381">381</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER XVI.</big></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocel">
+    Contest between Drewyer and a Shoshonee. The fidelity and honour of
+    that tribe. The party set out on their journey. The conduct of
+    Cameahwait reproved, and himself reconciled. The easy parturition of
+    the Shoshonee women. History of this nation. Their terror of the
+    Pawkees. Their government and family economy in their treatment of
+    their women. Their complaints of Spanish treachery. Description of
+    their weapons of warfare. Their curious mode of making a shield. The
+    caparison of their horses. The dress of the men and of the women
+    particularly described. Their mode of acquiring new names.</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_407">407</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER XVII.</big></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocel">
+    The party, after procuring horses from the Shoshonees, proceed on
+    their journey through the mountains. The difficulties and dangers of
+    the route. A council held with another band of the Shoshonees, of
+    whom some account is given. They are reduced to the necessity of
+    killing their horses for food. Captain Clarke with a small party
+    precedes the main body in quest of food, and is hospitably received
+    by the Pierced-nose Indians. Arrival of the main body amongst this
+    tribe, with whom a council is held. They resolve to perform the
+    remainder of their journey in canoes. Sickness of the party. They
+    descend the Kooskooskee to its junction with Lewis river, after
+    passing several dangerous rapids. Short description of the manners
+    and dress of the Pierced-nose Indians.</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_435">435</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td></tr>
+
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_1" id="Pg_1" title="Pg_1">[1]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<!-- ROUTE MAP -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173"
+        alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+<h2><a name="LEWIS_AND_CLARKES_EXPEDITION" id="LEWIS_AND_CLARKES_EXPEDITION"></a>LEWIS AND CLARKE'S EXPEDITION</h2>
+
+<h3>UP THE MISSOURI.</h3>
+
+<h3>CHAP. I.</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The party set out on the expedition and pass Wood river&mdash;Description of the
+town of St. Charles&mdash;Osage Woman river&mdash;Gasconade and Osage Rivers described&mdash;Character
+of the Osage Indians&mdash;Curious traditionary account of
+their Origin&mdash;The party proceed and pass the Mine river&mdash;The two Charitons&mdash;The
+Kanzas, Nodawa, Newahaw, Neeshnabatona, Little Nemahar, each
+of which are particularly described&mdash;They encamp at the mouth of the river
+Platte&mdash;A particular description of the surrounding country&mdash;The various
+Creeks, Bays, Islands, Prairies, &amp;c., given in the course of the route.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>On the acquisition of Louisiana, in the year 1803, the
+attention of the government of the United States, was early
+directed towards exploring and improving the new territory.
+Accordingly in the summer of the same year, an expedition
+was planned by the president for the purpose of
+discovering the courses and sources of the Missouri, and the
+most convenient water communication thence to the Pacific
+ocean. His private secretary captain Meriwether Lewis,
+and captain William Clarke, both officers of the army of
+the United States, were associated in the command of this
+enterprize. After receiving the requisite instructions, captain
+Lewis left the seat of government, and being joined by
+captain Clarke at Louisville, in Kentucky, proceeded to St.
+Louis, where they arrived in the month of December. Their
+<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'orriginal'.">original</ins> intention was to pass the winter at La Charrette,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_2" id="Pg_2" title="Pg_2">[2]</a></span>the highest settlement on the Missouri. But the Spanish
+commandant of the province, not having received an official
+account of its transfer to the United States, was obliged by
+the general policy of his government, to prevent strangers
+from passing through the Spanish territory. They therefore
+encamped at the mouth of Wood river, on the eastern
+side of the Mississippi, out of his jurisdiction, where they
+passed the winter in disciplining the men, and making the
+necessary preparations for setting out early in the Spring,
+before which the cession was officially announced. The
+party consisted of nine young men from Kentucky, fourteen
+soldiers of the United States army who volunteered their
+services, two French watermen&mdash;an interpreter and hunter&mdash;and
+a black servant belonging to captain Clarke&mdash;All
+these, except the last, were enlisted to serve as privates
+during the expedition, and three sergeants appointed from
+amongst them by the captains. In addition to these were
+engaged a corporal and six soldiers, and nine watermen to
+accompany the expedition as far as the Mandan nation, in order
+to assist in carrying the stores, or repelling an attack
+which was most to be apprehended between Wood river and
+that tribe. The necessary stores were subdivided into seven
+bales, and one box, containing a small portion of each article
+in case of accident. They consisted of a great variety of
+clothing, working utensils, locks, flints, powder, ball, and
+articles of the greatest use. To these were added fourteen
+bales and one box of Indian presents, distributed in the same
+manner, and composed of richly laced coats and other articles
+of dress, medals, flags, knives, and tomahawks for the
+chiefs&mdash;ornaments of different kinds, particularly beads,
+lookingglasses, handkerchiefs, paints, and generally such
+articles as were deemed best calculated for the taste of the
+Indians. The party was to embark on board of three boats:
+the first was a keel boat fifty-five feet long, drawing three
+feet water, carrying one large squaresail and twenty-two
+oars, a deck of ten feet in the bow, and stern formed a forecastle
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_3" id="Pg_3" title="Pg_3">[3]</a></span>and cabin, while the middle was covered by lockers,
+which might be raised so as to form a breast-work in case
+of attack. This was accompanied by two perioques or open
+boats, one of six and the other of seven oars. Two horses
+were at the same time to be led along the banks of the river
+for the purpose of bringing home game, or hunting in case
+of scarcity.</p>
+
+<p>Of the proceedings of this expedition, the following is a
+succinct and circumstantial narrative.</p>
+
+<p>All the preparations being completed, we left our encampment
+on Monday, May 14th, 1804. This spot is at the
+mouth of Wood river, a small stream which empties itself
+into the Mississippi, opposite to the entrance of the Missouri.
+It is situated in latitude 38&deg; 55' 19-6/10" north, and
+longitude from Greenwich, 89&deg; 57' 45". On both sides of
+the Mississippi the land for two or three miles is rich and
+level, but gradually swells into a high pleasant country,
+with less timber on the western than on the eastern side,
+but all susceptible of cultivation. The point which separates
+the two rivers on the north, extends for fifteen or
+twenty miles, the greater part of which is an open level
+plain, in which the people of the neighbourhood cultivate
+what little grain they raise. Not being able to set sail
+before four o'clock P.M., we did not make more than four
+miles, and encamped on the first island opposite a small
+creek called Cold Water.</p>
+
+<p>May 15. The rain, which had continued yesterday and
+last night, ceased this morning. We then proceeded, and
+after passing two small islands about ten miles further, stopped
+for the night at Piper's landing, opposite another island.
+The water is here very rapid and the banks falling in. We
+found that our boat was too heavily laden in the stern, in
+consequence of which she ran on logs three times to-day.
+It became necessary to throw the greatest weight on the
+bow of the boat, a precaution very necessary in ascending
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_4" id="Pg_4" title="Pg_4">[4]</a></span>both the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, in the beds of
+which, there lie great quantities of concealed timber.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning we set sail at five o'clock. At the distance
+of a few miles, we passed a remarkable large coal
+hill on the north side, called by the French La Charbonniere,
+and arrived at the town of St. Charles. Here we remained
+a few days.</p>
+
+<p>St. Charles is a small town on the north bank of the
+Missouri, about twenty-one miles from its confluence with
+the Mississippi. It is situated in a narrow plain, sufficiently
+high to protect it from the annual risings of the river in the
+month of June, and at the foot of a range of small hills,
+which have occasioned its being called Petite Cote, a name
+by which it is more known to the French than by that of
+St. Charles. One principal street, about a mile in length
+and running parallel with the river, divides the town, which
+is composed of nearly one hundred small wooden houses, besides
+a chapel. The inhabitants, about four hundred and
+fifty in number, are chiefly descendants from the French of
+Canada; and, in their manners, they unite all the careless
+gayety, and the amiable hospitality of the best times of
+France: yet, like most of their countrymen in America,
+they are but ill qualified for the rude life of a frontier; not
+that they are without talent, for they possess much natural
+genius and vivacity; nor that they are destitute of enterprize,
+for their hunting excursions are long, laborious, and
+hazardous: but their exertions are all desultory; their industry
+is without system, and without perseverance. The
+surrounding country, therefore, though rich, is not, in general,
+well cultivated; the inhabitants chiefly subsisting by
+hunting and trade with the Indians, and confine their culture
+to gardening, in which they excel.</p>
+
+<p>Being joined by captain Lewis, who had been detained
+by business at St. Louis, we again set sail on Monday, May
+21st, in the afternoon, but were prevented by wind and rain
+from going more than about three miles, when we encamped
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_5" id="Pg_5" title="Pg_5">[5]</a></span>on the upper point of an island, nearly opposite a creek
+which falls in on the south side.</p>
+
+<p>On the 22d we made about eighteen miles, passing several
+small farms on the bank of the river, a number of islands,
+and a large creek on the south side, called Bonhomme, or
+Goodman's river. A small number of emigrants from
+the United States have settled on the sides of this creek,
+which are very fertile. We also passed some high lands,
+and encamped, on the north side, near a small creek. Here
+we met with a camp of Kickapoo Indians who had left us at
+St. Charles, with a promise of procuring us some provisions
+by the time we overtook them. They now made us a present
+of four deer, and we gave them in return two quarts of
+whiskey. This tribe reside on the heads of the Kaskaskia
+and Illinois river, on the other side of the Mississippi, but
+occasionally hunt on the Missouri.</p>
+
+<p>May 23. Two miles from our camp of last night, we reached
+a river emptying itself on the north side, called Osage
+Woman river. It is about thirty yards wide, and has now a
+settlement of thirty or forty families from the United States.
+About a mile and a half beyond this is a large cave, on
+the south side at the foot of cliffs nearby three hundred feet
+high, overhanging the water, which becomes very swift
+at this place. The cave is one hundred and twenty feet
+wide, forty feet deep, and twenty high, it is known by the
+name of the Tavern, among the traders who have written
+their names on the rock, and painted some images which
+command the homage of the Indians and French. About a
+little further we passed a small creek called Tavern creek,
+and encamped on the south side of the river, having gone
+nine miles.</p>
+
+<p>Early the next morning we ascended a very difficult rapid,
+called the Devil's Race Ground, where the current sets
+for half a mile against some projecting rocks on the south
+side. We were less fortunate in attempting a second place
+of equal difficulty. Passing near the southern shore, the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_6" id="Pg_6" title="Pg_6">[6]</a></span>bank fell in so fast as to oblige us to cross the river instantly,
+between the northern side and a sandbar which is constantly
+moving and banking with the violence of the current.
+The boat struck on it, and would have upset immediately, if
+the men had not jumped into the water and held her, till the
+sand washed from under her. We encamped on the south
+side, having ascended ten miles, and the next day, May 25,
+passed on the south side the mouth of Wood river, on the
+north, two small creeks and several islands, and stopped for
+the night at the entrance of a creek on the north side, called
+by the French La Charrette, ten miles from our last encampment,
+and a little above a small village of the same
+name. It consists of seven small houses, and as many poor
+families who have fixed themselves here for the convenience
+of trade, and form the last establishment of whites on the
+Missouri. It rained last night, yet we found this morning
+that the river had fallen several inches.</p>
+
+<p>May 26. The wind being favourable we made eighteen
+miles to-day. We passed in the morning several islands, the
+largest of which is Buffaloe island, separated from the
+southern side by a small channel which receives the waters
+of Buffaloe creek. On the same side is Shepherd's creek,
+a little beyond which we encamped on the northern side.
+The next day we sailed along a large island called Otter
+island, on the northern side, extending nearly ten miles in
+length, narrow but high in its situation, and one of the most
+fertile in the whole river. Between it and the northern
+shore, three small creeks, one of which has the same name
+with the island, empty themselves. On the southern shore
+is a creek twenty yards wide, called Ash creek. In the
+course of the day we met two canoes loaded with furs,
+which had been two months on their route, from the Mahar
+nation, residing more than seven hundred miles up the river&mdash;one
+large raft from the Pawnees on the river Platte,
+and three others from the Grand Osage river. At the distance
+of fifteen miles we encamped on a willow island, at
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_7" id="Pg_7" title="Pg_7">[7]</a></span>the entrance of the river Gasconade. This river falls into
+the Missouri from the south, one hundred miles from the
+Mississippi. Its length is about one hundred and fifty miles
+in a course generally northeast through a hilly country.
+On its banks are a number of saltpetre caves, and it is believed
+some mines of lead in the vicinity. Its width at the
+mouth is one hundred and fifty-seven yards, and its depth
+nineteen feet.</p>
+
+<p>Here we halted for the purpose of hunting and drying
+our provisions, and making the necessary celestial observations.
+This being completed, we set sail on the 29th at four
+o'clock, and at four miles distance encamped on the south-side,
+above a small creek, called Deer creek. The next day,
+30th, we set out early, and at two miles distant reached a
+large cave, on the north, called Montbrun's tavern, after a
+French trader of that name, just above a creek called after
+the same person. Beyond this is a large island, and at the
+distance of four miles, Rush creek coming in from the
+south, at eleven, Big-muddy river on the north, about fifty
+yards wide; three miles further, is Little-muddy river on
+the same side, opposite to which we encamped at the mouth
+of Grindstone creek. The rain which began last night continued
+through the day, accompanied with high wind and
+some hail. The river has been rising fast for two days, and
+the country around appears full of water. Along the sides
+of the river to day we observe much timber, the cotton wood,
+the sycamore, hickory, white walnut, some grapevines, and
+rushes&mdash;the high west wind and rain compelled us to remain
+all the next day, May 31. In the afternoon a boat came down
+from the Grand Osage river, bringing a letter from a person
+sent to the Osage nation on the Arkansaw river, which
+mentioned that the letter announcing the cession of Louisiana
+was committed to the flames&mdash;that the Indians would
+not believe that the Americans were owners of that country,
+and disregarded St. Louis and its supplies. The party was
+occupied in hunting, in the course of which, they caught in
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_8" id="Pg_8" title="Pg_8">[8]</a></span>the woods several very large rats. We set sail early the next
+morning, June 1st, and at six miles distant passed Bear
+creek, a stream of about twenty-five yards width; but the
+wind being ahead and the current rapid, we were unable to
+make more than thirteen miles to the mouth of the Osage
+river; where we encamped and remained the following day,
+for the purpose of making celestial observations. The Osage
+river empties itself into the Missouri, at one hundred and
+thirty-three miles distance from the mouth of the latter river.
+Its general course is west and west southwest through
+a rich and level country. At the junction the Missouri is
+about eight hundred and seventy-five yards wide, and the
+Osage three hundred and ninety-seven. The low point of
+junction is in latitude 38&deg; 31' 16", and at a short distance
+from it is a high commanding position, whence we enjoyed
+a delightful prospect of the country.</p>
+
+<p>The Osage river gives or owes its name to a nation inhabiting
+its banks at a considerable distance from this place.
+Their present name however, seems to have originated from
+the French traders, for both among themselves and their
+neighbours they are called the Wasbashas. They number
+between twelve and thirteen hundred warriors, and consist of
+three tribes: the Great Osages of about five hundred warriors,
+living in a village on the south bank of the river&mdash;the
+Little Osages, of nearly half that number, residing at the
+distance of six miles from them&mdash;and the Arkansaw band,
+a colony of Osages, of six hundred warriors, who left them
+some years ago, under the command of a chief called the
+Bigfoot, and settled on the Vermillion river, a branch of the
+Arkansaw. In person the Osages are among the largest
+and best formed Indians, and are said to possess fine military
+capacities; but residing as they do in villages, and having
+made considerable advance in agriculture, they seem
+less addicted to war, than their northern neighbours, to
+whom the use of rifles gives a great superiority. Among
+the peculiarities of this people, there is nothing more remarkable
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_9" id="Pg_9" title="Pg_9">[9]</a></span>than the tradition relative to their origin. According
+to universal belief, the founder of the nation was a
+snail passing a quiet existence along the banks of the Osage,
+till a high flood swept him down to the Missouri, and left him
+exposed on the shore. The heat of the sun at length ripened
+him into a man, but with the change of his nature, he
+had not forgotten his native seats on the Osage, towards
+which, he immediately bent his way. He was however
+soon overtaken by hunger, and fatigue, when happily the
+Great Spirit appeared, and giving him a bow and arrow,
+showed him how to kill and cook deer, and cover himself
+with the skin. He then proceeded to his original residence,
+but as he approached the river, he was met by a beaver, who
+inquired haughtily who he was, and by what authority he
+came to disturb his possession. The Osage answered that
+the river was his own, for he had once lived on its borders.
+As they stood disputing, the daughter of the beaver came,
+and having by her entreaties reconciled her father to this
+young stranger, it was proposed that the Osage should
+marry the young beaver, and share with her family the enjoyment
+of the river. The Osage readily consented, and
+from this happy union there soon came the village and the
+nation of the Wasbasha, or Osages, who have ever since
+preserved a pious reverence for their ancestors, abstaining
+from the chace of the beaver, because in killing that animal,
+they killed a brother of the Osage. Of late years,
+however, since the trade with the whites has rendered beaver
+skins more valuable, the sanctity of these maternal relatives
+has visibly reduced, and the poor animals have nearly
+lost all the privileges of kindred.</p>
+
+<p>On the afternoon of June 3, we proceeded, and at three
+miles distant, reached a creek called Cupboard creek, from
+a rock of that appearance near its entrance. Two miles further
+we encamped at Moreau creek, a stream of twenty
+yards width, on the southern side. The next morning, we
+passed at an early hour, Cedar island on the north, so called
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_10" id="Pg_10" title="Pg_10">[10]</a></span>from the abundance of the tree of that name; near which is
+a small creek, named Nightingale creek, from a bird of
+that species, who sang for us during the night. Beyond
+Cedar island, are some others of a smaller extent, and
+at seven miles distance a creek fifteen or twenty yards
+wide, entering from the north, and known by the name of
+Cedar creek. At seven and a half miles further, we passed
+on the south side another creek, which we called Mast
+creek, from the circumstance of our mast being broken by
+running under a concealed tree; a little above is another
+creek on the left, one mile beyond which we encamped on
+the southern shore under high projecting cliffs. The French
+had reported that lead ore was to be found in this place, but
+on examining the hills, we could discern no appearance
+of that mineral. Along the river on the south, is a low land
+covered with rushes, and high nettles, and near the mouths
+of the creeks, supplied with oak, ash, and walnut timber.
+On the north the land is rich and well situated. We made
+seventeen and a half miles this day. The river is falling
+slowly. We continued our route the next morning early: a
+small creek called Lead creek, on the south; another on the
+north, known to the French by the name of Little Good
+Woman's creek, and again Big Rock creek on the south
+were the only streams we passed this morning. At eleven
+o'clock we met a raft made of two canoes joined together,
+in which two French traders were descending, from
+eighty leagues up the river Kanzas, where they had wintered,
+and caught great quantities of beaver, but had lost
+much of their game by fires from the prairies. They
+told us that the Kanzas nation is now hunting buffaloe in
+the plains, having passed the last winter in this river. Two
+miles further, we reached on the south Little Manitou
+creek, which takes its name from a strange figure resembling
+the bust of a man, with the horns of a stag, painted on
+a projecting rock, which may represent some spirit or deity.
+Near this is a sandbar extending several miles, which
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_11" id="Pg_11" title="Pg_11">[11]</a></span>renders the navigation difficult, and a small creek called
+Sand creek on the south, where we stopped for dinner,
+and gathered wild cresses and tongue grass from the sandbar.
+The rapidity of the currents added to our having broken
+our mast, prevented our going more than twelve and a
+half miles. The scouts and hunters whom we always kept
+out, report that they have seen fresh tracks of Indians. The
+next morning we left our camp, which was on the south
+side, opposite to a large island in the middle of the river,
+and at five miles reached a creek on the north side, of about
+twenty yards wide, called Split Rock creek, from a fissure
+in the point of a neighbouring rock. Three miles beyond
+this, on the south is Saline river, it is about thirty yards
+wide, and has its name from the number of salt licks, and
+springs, which render its water brackish; the river is very
+rapid and the banks falling in. After leaving Saline creek,
+we passed one large island and several smaller ones, having
+made fourteen miles. The water rose a foot during the last
+night.</p>
+
+<p>The next day, June 7, we passed at four and a half miles
+Big Manitou creek, near which is a limestone rock inlaid
+with flint of various colours, and embellished, or at least
+covered with uncouth paintings of animals and inscriptions.
+We landed to examine it, but found the place occupied by a
+nest of rattlesnakes, of which we killed three. We also
+examined some licks and springs of salt water, two or three
+miles up this creek. We then proceeded by some small
+willow islands, and encamped at the mouth of Good Woman
+river on the north. It is about thirty-five yards wide, and
+said to be navigable for boats several leagues. The hunters,
+who had hitherto given us only deer, brought in this
+evening three bears, and had seen some indication of buffaloe.
+We had come fourteen miles.</p>
+
+<p>June 8, we saw several small willow islands, and a
+creek on the south, near which are a number of deerlicks;
+at nine miles distance we came to Mine river. This river,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_12" id="Pg_12" title="Pg_12">[12]</a></span>which falls into the Missouri from the south, is said to be
+navigable for boats eighty or ninety miles, and is about seventy
+yards wide at its mouth. It forks about five or six leagues
+from the Missouri, and at the point of junction are some very
+rich salt springs; the west branch in particular, is so much
+impregnated, that, for twenty miles, the water is not palatable:
+several branches of the Manitou and Good Woman are
+equally tinctured. The French report also, that lead ore has
+been found on different parts of the river. We made several
+excursions near the river through the low rich country
+on its banks, and after dinner went on to the island of Mills,
+where we encamped. We met with a party of three hunters
+from the Sioux river; they had been out for twelve
+months, and collected about nine hundred dollars worth of
+peltries and furs. We ascended this river twelve miles.</p>
+
+<p>On the 9th, we set out early, and reached a cliff of rocks,
+called the Arrow Rock, near to which is a prairie called the
+Prairies of Arrows, and Arrow creek, a small stream about
+eight yards wide, whose source is in the adjoining prairies
+on the south. At this cliff the Missouri is confined within
+a bed of two hundred yards; and about four miles to the
+south east is a large lick and salt spring of great strength.
+About three miles further is Blackbird creek on the north
+side, opposite to which, is an island and a prairie inclosing
+a small lake. Five miles beyond this we encamped on the
+south side, after making, in the course of the day, thirteen
+miles. The land on the north is a high rich plain. On the
+south it is also even, of a good quality, and rising from fifty
+to one hundred feet.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning, 10th, we passed Deer creek, and at
+the distance of five miles, the two rivers called by the
+French the two Charatons, a corruption of Thieraton, the
+first of which is thirty, the second seventy yards wide, and
+enter the Missouri together. They are both navigable for
+boats: the country through which they pass is broken, rich,
+and thickly covered with timber. The Ayauway nation,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_13" id="Pg_13" title="Pg_13">[13]</a></span>consisting of three hundred men, have a village near its head-waters
+on the river De Moines. Farther on we passed a
+large island called <i>Chicot</i> or Stump Island, and encamped
+on the south, after making ten miles. A head wind forced
+us to remain there all the next day, during which we dried
+the meat we had killed, and examined the surrounding
+country, which consists of good land, well watered, and supplied
+with timber: the prairies also differ from those eastward
+of the Mississippi, inasmuch as the latter are generally
+without any covering except grass, whilst the former
+abound with hazel, grapes and other fruits, among which is
+the Osage plum of a superior size and quality. On the
+morning of the 12th, we passed through difficult places in
+the river, and reached Plum creek on the south side. At
+one o'clock, we met two rafts loaded, the one with furs, the
+other with the tallow of buffaloe; they were from the Sioux
+nation, and on their way to St. Louis; but we were fortunate
+enough to engage one of them, a Mr. Durion, who had
+lived with that nation more than twenty years, and was
+high in their confidence, to accompany us thither. We
+made nine miles. On the 13th, we passed at between four
+and five miles, a bend of the river, and two creeks on the
+north, called the Round Bend creeks. Between these two
+creeks is the prairie, in which once stood the ancient village
+of the Missouris. Of this village there remains no
+vestige, nor is there any thing to recall this great and numerous
+nation, except a feeble remnant of about thirty families.
+They were driven from their original seats by the
+invasions of the Sauks and other Indians from the Mississippi,
+who destroyed at this village two hundred of them in
+one contest, and sought refuge near the Little Osage, on
+the other side of the river. The encroachment of the same
+enemies forced, about thirty years since, both these nations
+from the banks of the Missouri. A few retired with the Osage,
+and the remainder found an asylum on the river Platte,
+among the Ottoes, who are themselves declining. Opposite
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_14" id="Pg_14" title="Pg_14">[14]</a></span>the plain there was an island and a French fort, but
+there is now no appearance of either, the successive inundations
+having probably washed them away, as the willow
+island which is in the situation described by Du Pratz, is
+small and of recent formation. Five miles from this place
+is the mouth of Grand River, where we encamped. This
+river follows a course nearly south, or south east, and is
+between eighty and a hundred yards wide where it enters
+the Missouri, near a delightful and rich plain. A racoon,
+a bear, and some deer were obtained to day. We proceeded
+at six o'clock the next morning. The current was so
+rapid and the banks on the north falling in so constantly,
+that we were obliged to approach the sandbars on the
+south. These were moving continually, and formed the
+worst passage we had seen, and which we surmounted with
+much difficulty. We met a trading raft from the Pawnee
+nation on the river Platte, and attempted unsuccessfully to
+engage one of their party to return with us. At the distance
+of eight miles, we came to some high cliffs, called the Snake
+bluffs, from the number of that animal in the neighbourhood,
+and immediately above these bluffs, Snake creek, about
+eighteen yards wide, on which we encamped. One of our
+hunters, a half Indian, brought us an account of his having
+to day passed a small lake, near which a number of deer
+were feeding, and in the pond he heard a snake making a
+guttural noise like a turkey. He fired his gun, but the
+noise became louder. He adds, that he has heard the Indians
+mention this species of snake, and this story is confirmed
+by a Frenchman of our party. All the next day,
+the river being very high, the sandbars were so rolling and
+numerous, and the current so strong, that we were unable
+to stem it even with oars added to our sails; this obliged us
+to go nearer the banks, which were falling in, so that we
+could not make, though the boat was occasionally towed,
+more than fourteen miles. We passed several islands and
+one creek on the south side, and encamped on the north opposite
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_15" id="Pg_15" title="Pg_15">[15]</a></span>a beautiful plain, which extends as far back as the
+Osage river, and some miles up the Missouri. In front of
+our encampment are the remains of an old village of the
+Little Osage, situated at some distance from the river, and
+at the foot of a small hill. About three miles above them,
+in view of our camp is the situation of the old village of the
+Missouris after they fled from the Sauks. The inroads of
+the same tribe compelled the Little Osage to retire from
+the Missouri a few years ago, and establish themselves near
+the Great Osages. The river, which is here about one mile
+wide, had risen in the morning, but fell towards evening.
+Early this morning, June 16th, we joined the camp of our
+hunters, who had provided two deer and two bear, and then
+passing an island and a prairie on the north covered with a
+species of timothy, made our way through bad sandbars and
+a swift current, to an encampment for the evening, on the
+north side, at ten miles distance. The timber which we
+examined to day was not sufficiently strong for oars; the
+musquitoes and ticks are exceedingly troublesome. On the
+17th, we set out early and having come to a convenient
+place at one mile distance, for procuring timber and making
+oars, we occupied ourselves in that way on this and the following
+day. The country on the north of the river is rich
+and covered with timber; among which we procured the
+ash for oars. At two miles it changes into extensive prairies,
+and at seven or eight miles distance becomes higher and
+waving. The prairie and high lands on the south commence
+more immediately on the river; the whole is well watered
+and provided with game, such as deer, elk, and bear.
+The hunters brought in a fat horse which was probably
+lost by some war party&mdash;this being the crossing place for
+the Sauks, Ayauways, and Sioux, in their excursions against
+the Osage.</p>
+
+<p>June 19, the oars being finished, we proceeded under
+a gentle breeze by two large and some smaller islands. The
+sandbars are numerous and so bad, that at one place we
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_16" id="Pg_16" title="Pg_16">[16]</a></span>were forced to clear away the driftwood in order to pass:
+the water too was so rapid that we were under the necessity
+of towing the boat for half a mile round a point of rocks on
+the south side. We passed two creeks, one called Tiger
+creek on the north, twenty-five yards wide at the extremity
+of a large island called Panther Island; the other Tabo
+creek on the south, fifteen yards wide. Along the shores
+are gooseberries and raspberries in great abundance. At
+the distance of seventeen and a half miles we encamped on
+the south, near a lake about two miles from the river and
+several in circumference; and much frequented by deer and
+all kinds of fowls. On the north the land is higher and better
+calculated for farms than that on the south, which ascends
+more gradually, but is still rich and pleasant. The
+musquitoes and other animals are so troublesome that musquitoe
+biers or nets were distributed to the party. The
+next morning we passed a large island, opposite to which
+on the north is a large and beautiful prairie, called Sauk
+prairie, the land being fine and well timbered on both sides
+the river. Pelicans were seen to day. We made six and
+three quarter miles, and encamped at the lower point of a
+small island, along the north side of which we proceeded
+the next day, June 21st, but not without danger in consequence
+of the sands and the rapidity of the water which
+rose three inches last night. Behind another island come
+in from the south two creeks, called Eau, Beau, or Clear
+Water creeks; on the north is a very remarkable bend,
+where the high lands approach the river, and form an acute
+angle at the head of a large island produced by a narrow
+channel through the point of the bend. We passed several
+other islands, and encamped at seven and a half miles on
+the south.</p>
+
+<p>22d. The river rose during the night four inches. The
+water is very rapid and crowded with concealed timber.
+We passed two large islands and an extensive prairie on the
+south, beginning with a rich low land, and rising to the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_17" id="Pg_17" title="Pg_17">[17]</a></span>distance of seventy or eighty feet of rolling clear country.
+The thermometer at three o'clock P.M. was at 87&deg;. After
+coming ten and a half miles we encamped on the south, opposite
+a large creek called Fire Prairie river.</p>
+
+<p>23d. The wind was against us this morning, and became
+so violent that we made only three and a half miles, and
+were obliged to lie to during the day at a small island. This
+is separated from the northern side by a narrow channel
+which cannot be passed by boats, being choaked by trees
+and drifted wood. Directly opposite on the south, is a high
+commanding position, more than seventy feet above high
+water mark, and overlooking the river which is here of but
+little width; this spot has many advantages for a fort, and
+trading house with the Indians.<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> The river fell eight inches
+last night.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> The United States built in September, 1808, a factory and
+fort at this spot, which is very convenient for trading with the
+Osages, Ayauways and Kanzas.</p></div>
+
+<p>The next day, 24th, we passed at eight miles distance,
+Hay Cabin creek coming in from the south, about twenty
+yards wide, and so called from camps of straw built on it;
+to the north are some rocks projecting into the river, and a
+little beyond them a creek on the same side, called Charaton
+Scarty; that is, Charaton like the Otter. We halted,
+after making eleven and a half miles, the country on both
+sides being fine and interspersed with prairies, in which we
+now see numerous herds of deer, pasturing in the plains or
+feeding on the young willows of the river.</p>
+
+<p>25th. A thick fog detained us till eight o'clock, when we
+set sail, and at three miles reached a bank of stone coal on
+the north, which appeared to be very abundant: just below
+it is a creek called after the bank La Charbonniere. Four
+miles further, and on the southern side, comes in a small
+creek, called La Benite. The prairies here approach the
+river and contain many fruits, such as plums, raspberries,
+wild apples, and nearer the river vast quantities of mulberries.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_18" id="Pg_18" title="Pg_18">[18]</a></span>Our encampment was at thirteen miles distance on
+an island to the north, opposite some hills higher than usual,
+and almost one hundred and sixty or one hundred and eighty
+feet. 26th. At one mile we passed at the end of a small
+island, Blue Water creek, which is about thirty yards wide
+at its entrance from the south.<a name="FNanchor_A_2" id="FNanchor_A_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_2" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> Here the Missouri is confined
+within a narrow bed, and the current still more so by
+counter currents or whirls on one side and a high bank on
+the other. We passed a small island and a sandbar, where
+our tow rope broke twice, and we rowed round with great
+exertions. We saw a number of parroquets, and killed
+some deer; after nine and three quarter miles we encamped
+at the upper point of the mouth of the river Kanzas: here
+we remained two days, during which we made the necessary
+observations, recruited the party, and repaired the boat.
+The river Kanzas takes its rise in the plains between the
+Arkansaw and Platte rivers, and pursues a course generally
+east till its junction with the Missouri which is in latitude
+38&deg; 31' 13"; here it is three hundred and forty and a quarter
+yards wide, though it is wider a short distance above the
+mouth. The Missouri itself is about five hundred yards in
+width; the point of union is low and subject to inundations
+for two hundred and fifty yards, it then rises a little above
+high water mark, and continues so as far back as the hills.
+On the south of the Kanzas the hills or highlands come
+within one mile and a half of the river; on the north of the
+Missouri they do not approach nearer than several miles;
+but on all sides the country is fine. The comparative specific
+gravities of the two rivers is, for the Missouri seventy-eight,
+the Kanzas seventy-two degrees; the waters of the latter
+have a very disagreeable taste, the former has risen during
+yesterday and to day about two feet. On the banks of
+the Kanzas reside the Indians of the same name, consisting
+of two villages, one at about twenty, the other forty leagues
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_19" id="Pg_19" title="Pg_19">[19]</a></span>from its mouth, and amounting to about three hundred men.
+They once lived twenty-four leagues higher than the Kanzas,
+on the south bank of the Missouri, and were then more
+numerous, but they have been reduced and banished by the
+Sauks and Ayauways, who being better supplied with arms
+have an advantage over the Kanzas, though the latter are
+not less fierce or warlike than themselves. This nation is
+now hunting in the plains for the buffaloe which our hunters
+have seen for the first time.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_2" id="Footnote_A_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_2"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> A few miles up the Blue Water Creek are quarries of
+plaster of paris, since worked and brought down to St. Louis.</p></div>
+
+<p>On the 29th, we set out late in the afternoon, and having
+passed a sandbar, near which the boat was almost
+lost, and a large island on the north, we encamped at seven
+and a quarter miles on the same side in the low lands,
+where the rushes are so thick that it is troublesome to walk
+through them. Early the next morning, 30th, we reached, at
+five miles distance, the mouth of a river coming in from the
+north, and called by the French, Petite Riviere Platte, or
+Little Shallow river; it is about sixty yards wide at its
+mouth. A few of the party who ascended informed us, that
+the lands on both sides are good, and that there are several
+falls well calculated for mills; the wind was from the south
+west, and the weather oppressively warm, the thermometer
+standing at 96&deg; above 0 at three o'clock P.M. One mile
+beyond this is a small creek on the south, at five miles from
+which we encamped on the same side, opposite the lower
+point of an island called Diamond island. The land on the
+north between the Little Shallow river, and the Missouri is
+not good and subject to overflow&mdash;on the south it is higher
+and better timbered.</p>
+
+<p>July 1st. We proceeded along the north side of Diamond
+island, where a small creek called Biscuit creek empties itself.
+One and a half miles above the island is a large sandbar
+in the middle of the river, beyond which we stopped to
+refresh the men, who suffered very much from the heat.
+Here we observed great quantities of grapes and raspberries.
+Between one and two miles farther are three islands
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_20" id="Pg_20" title="Pg_20">[20]</a></span>a creek on the south known by the French name of Remore.
+The main current which is now on the south side of
+the largest of the three islands, ran three years, as we were
+told on the north, and there was then no appearance of the
+two smaller islands. At the distance of four and a half
+miles we reached the lower point of a cluster of small islands,
+two large and two small, called Isles des Pares or
+Field Islands. Paccaun trees were this day seen, and large
+quantities of deer and turkies on the banks. We had advanced
+twelve miles.</p>
+
+<p>July 2d. We left our encampment, opposite to which is
+a high and beautiful prairie on the southern side, and passed
+up the south of the islands, which are high meadows,
+and a creek on the north called Pare creek. Here for half
+an hour the river became covered with drift wood, which
+rendered the navigation dangerous, and was probably caused
+by the giving way of some sandbar, which had detained the
+wood. After making five miles we passed a stream on the
+south called Turky creek, near a sandbar, where we could
+scarcely stem the current with twenty oars, and all the poles
+we had. On the north at about two miles further is a large
+island called by the Indians, Wau-car-da-war-card-da, or the
+Bear Medicine island. Here we landed and replaced our
+mast, which had been broken three days ago, by running
+against a tree, overhanging the river. Thence we proceeded,
+and after night stopped on the north side, above the
+island, having come eleven and a half miles. Opposite our
+camp is a valley, in which was situated an old village of the
+Kanzas, between two high points of land, and on the bank of
+the river. About a mile in the rear of the village was a
+small fort, built by the French on an elevation. There are
+now no traces of the village, but the situation of the fort
+may be recognized by some remains of chimnies, and the
+general outline of the fortification, as well as by the fine
+spring which supplied it with water. The party, who were
+stationed here, were probably cut off by the Indians, as there
+are no accounts of them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_21" id="Pg_21" title="Pg_21">[21]</a></span>July 3d. A gentle breeze from the south carried us eleven
+and a quarter miles this day, past two islands, one a small
+willow island, the other large, and called by the French Isle
+des Vaches, or Cow island. At the head of this island, on the
+northern shore, is a large pond containing beaver, and fowls
+of different kinds. After passing a bad sandbar, we stopped
+on the south side at an old trading house, which is now deserted,
+and half a mile beyond it encamped on the south.
+The land is fine along the rivers, and some distance back.
+We observed the black walnut and oak, among the timber;
+and the honey-suckle and the buck's-eye, with the nuts on
+them.</p>
+
+<p>The morning of the 4th July was announced by the discharge
+of our gun. At one mile we reached the mouth of a
+bayeau or creek, coming from a large lake on the north side,
+which appears as if it had once been the bed of the river, to
+which it runs parallel for several miles. The water of it
+is clear and supplied by a small creek and several springs,
+and the number of goslins which we saw on it, induced us to
+call it the Gosling lake. It is about three quarters of a
+mile wide, and seven or eight miles long. One of our men
+was bitten by a snake, but a poultice of bark and gunpowder
+was sufficient to cure the wound. At ten and a quarter
+miles we reached a creek on the south about twelve yards
+wide and coming from an extensive prairie, which approached
+the borders of the river. To this creek which had no
+name, we gave that of Fourth of July creek; above it is a
+high mound, where three Indian paths centre, and from which
+is a very extensive prospect. After fifteen miles sail we
+came to on the north a little above a creek on the southern
+side, about thirty yards wide, which we called Independence
+creek, in honour of the day, which we could celebrate only
+by an evening gun, and an additional gill of whiskey to the
+men.</p>
+
+<p>The next day, 5th, we crossed over to the south and came
+along the bank of an extensive and beautiful prairie, interspersed
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_22" id="Pg_22" title="Pg_22">[22]</a></span>with copses of timber, and watered by Independence
+creek. On this bank formerly stood the second village of the
+Kanzas; from the remains it must have been once a large
+town. We passed several bad sandbars, and a small creek
+to the south, which we called Yellow Ochre creek, from a
+bank of that mineral a little above it. The river continues
+to fall. On the shores are great quantities of summer and
+fall grapes, berries and wild roses. Deer is not so abundant
+as usual, but there are numerous tracks of elk around us.
+We encamped at ten miles distance on the south side under
+a high bank, opposite to which was a low land covered with
+tall rushes, and some timber.</p>
+
+<p>July 6. We set sail, and at one mile passed a sandbar,
+three miles further an island, a prairie to the north, at the
+distance of four miles called Reevey's prairie, after a man
+who was killed there; at which place the river is confined
+to a very narrow channel, and by a sandbar from the south.
+Four miles beyond is another sandbar terminated by a small
+willow island, and forming a very considerable bend in the
+river towards the north. The sand of the bar is light, intermixed
+with small pebbles and some pit coal. The river falls
+slowly, and, owing either to the muddiness of its water, or
+the extreme heat of the weather, the men perspire profusely.
+We encamped on the south having made twelve miles.
+The bird called whip-poor-will sat on the boat for some time.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning, July 7th, the rapidity of the water obliged
+us to draw the boat along with ropes. At six and three
+quarter miles, we came to a sandbar, at a point opposite a
+fine rich prairie on the north, called St. Michael's. The prairies
+of this neighbourhood have the appearance of distinct
+farms, divided by narrow strips of woodland, which follow
+the borders of the small runs leading to the river. Above this,
+about a mile, is a cliff of yellow clay on the north. At four
+o'clock we passed a narrow part of the channel, where the
+water is confined within a bed of two hundred yards wide,
+the current running directly against the southern bank with
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_23" id="Pg_23" title="Pg_23">[23]</a></span>no sand on the north to confine it or break its force. We
+made fourteen miles, and halted on the north, after which we
+had a violent gust about seven o'clock. One of the hunters
+saw in a pond to the north which we passed yesterday a number
+of young swans. We saw a large rat, and killed a wolf.
+Another of our men had a stroke of the sun; he was bled,
+and took a preparation of nitre which relieved him considerably.</p>
+
+<p>July 8. We set out early, and soon passed a small creek
+on the north, which we called Ordway's creek, from our
+sergeant of that name who had been sent on shore with the
+horses, and went up it. On the same side are three small
+islands, one of which is the Little Nodawa, and a large island
+called the Great <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'Nowada'">Nodawa</ins> extending more than five miles,
+and containing seven or eight thousand acres of high good
+land, rarely overflowed, and one of the largest islands of the
+Missouri. It is separated from the northern shore by a small
+channel of from forty-five to eighty yards wide, up which we
+passed, and found near the western extremity of the island
+the mouth of the river Nodawa. This river persues nearly
+a southern course, is navigable for boats to some distance,
+and about seventy yards wide above the mouth, though not
+so wide immediately there, as the mud from the Missouri
+contracts its channel. At twelve and a quarter miles, we
+encamped on the north side, near the head of Nodawa island,
+and opposite a smaller one in the middle of the river. Five
+of the men were this day sick with violent headache. The
+river continues to fall.</p>
+
+<p>July 9th. We passed the island opposite to which we last
+night encamped, and saw near the head of it a creek falling
+in from a pond on the north, to which we gave the name of
+Pike pond, from the numbers of that animal which some of
+our party saw from the shore. The wind changed at eight
+from N.E. to S.W. and brought rain. At six miles we passed
+the mouth of Monter's creek on the south, and two miles
+above a few cabins, where one of our party had encamped
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_24" id="Pg_24" title="Pg_24">[24]</a></span>with some Frenchmen about two years ago. Further on we
+passed an island on the north, opposite some cliffs on the
+south side, near which Loup or Wolf river falls into the Missouri.
+This river is about sixty yards wide, it heads near
+the same sources as the Kanzas, and is navigable for boats,
+at some distance up. At fourteen miles we encamped on the
+south side.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 10th. We proceeded on by a prairie on the upper
+side of Wolf river, and at four miles passed a creek fifteen
+yards wide on the south, called Pape's creek after a Spaniard
+of that name, who killed himself there. At six miles we dined
+on an island called by the French Isle de Salomon, or
+Solomon's island, opposite to which on the south is a beautiful
+plain covered with grass, intermixed with wild rye and
+a kind of wild potatoe. After making ten miles we stopped
+for the night on the northern side, opposite a cliff of yellow
+clay. The river has neither risen nor fallen to day. On the
+north the low land is very extensive, and covered with vines;
+on the south, the hills approach nearer the river, and back
+of them commence the plains. There are a great many goslins
+along the banks.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 11th. After three miles sailing we came to a
+willow island on the north side, behind which enters a creek
+called by the Indians Tarkio. Above this creek on the north
+the low lands are subject to overflow, and further back the
+undergrowth of vines particularly, is so abundant that they
+can scarcely be passed. Three miles from the Tarkio we
+encamped on a large sand island on the north, immediately
+opposite the river Nemahaw.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 12th. We remained here to day for the purpose
+of refreshing the party, and making lunar observations.
+The Nemahaw empties itself into the Missouri from
+the south, and is eighty yards wide at the confluence, which
+is in lat. 39&deg; 55' 56". Capt. Clarke ascended it in the perioque
+about two miles to the mouth of a small creek on the lower
+side. On going ashore he found in the level plain several
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_25" id="Pg_25" title="Pg_25">[25]</a></span>artificial mounds or graves, and on the adjoining hills others
+of a larger size. This appearance indicates sufficiently the
+former population of this country; the mounds being certainly
+intended as tombs; the Indians of the Missouri still preserving
+the custom of interring the dead on high ground.
+From the top of the highest mound a delightful prospect
+presented itself&mdash;the level and extensive meadows watered
+by the Nemahaw, and enlivened by the few trees and shrubs
+skirting the borders of the river and its tributary streams&mdash;the
+lowland of the Missouri covered with undulating grass,
+nearly five feet high, gradually rising into a second plain,
+where rich weeds and flowers are interspersed with copses
+of the Osage plum; further back are seen small groves of
+trees; an abundance of grapes; the wild cherry of the Missouri,
+resembling our own, but larger, and growing on a small
+bush; and the chokecherry, which we observed for the first
+time. Some of the grapes gathered to-day are nearly ripe.
+On the south of the Nemahaw, and about a quarter of a mile
+from its mouth, is a cliff of freestone, in which are various
+inscriptions and marks made by the Indians. The sand
+island where we are encamped, is covered with the two species
+of willow, broad and narrow leaf.</p>
+
+<p>July 13th. We proceeded at sunrise with a fair wind
+from the south, and at two miles, passed the mouth of a small
+river on the north, called Big Tarkio. A channel from the
+bed of the Missouri once ran into this river, and formed an
+island called St. Joseph's, but the channel is now filled up,
+and the island is added to the northern shore. Further on
+to the south, is situated an extensive plain, covered with a
+grass resembling timothy in its general appearance, except
+the seed which is like flaxseed, and also a number of grapevines.
+At twelve miles, we passed an island on the north,
+above which is a large sandbar covered with willows: and
+at twenty and a half miles, stopped on a large sandbar, in the
+middle of the river opposite a high handsome prairie, which
+extends to the hills four or five miles distant, though near
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_26" id="Pg_26" title="Pg_26">[26]</a></span>the bank the land is low, and subject to be overflowed. This
+day was exceedingly fine and pleasant, a storm of wind and
+rain from north-northeast, last night, having cooled the air.</p>
+
+<p>July 14. We had some hard showers of rain before seven
+o'clock, when we set out. We had just reached the end of the
+sand island, and seen the opposite banks falling in, and so
+lined with timber that we could not approach it without
+danger, when a sudden squall, from the northeast, struck
+the boat on the starboard quarter, and would have certainly
+dashed her to pieces on the sand island, if the party had
+not leaped into the river, and with the aid of the anchor and
+cable kept her off: the waves dashing over her for the space
+of forty minutes; after which, the river became almost
+instantaneously calm and smooth. The two periogues
+were ahead, in a situation nearly similar, but fortunately
+no damage was done to the boats or the loading. The
+wind having shifted to the southeast, we came at the distance
+of two miles, to an inland on the north, where we dined.
+One mile above, on the same side of the river, is a small factory,
+where a merchant of St. Louis traded with the Ottoes
+and Pawnees two years ago. Near this is an extensive lowland,
+part of which is overflowed occasionally, the rest is
+rich and well timbered. The wind again changed to northwest
+by north. At seven and a half miles, we reached
+lower point of a large island, on the north side. A small
+distance above this point, is a river, called by the Maha Indians,
+Nishnahbatona. This is a considerable creek, nearly
+as large as the Mine river, and runs parallel to the Missouri
+the greater part of its course, being fifty yards wide
+at the mouth. In the prairies or glades, we saw wild-timothy,
+lambsquarter, cuckleberries, and on the edges of the
+river, summer-grapes, plums, and gooseberries. We also
+saw to-day, for the first time, some elk, at which some of the
+party shot, but at too great a distance. We encamped on
+the north side of the island, a little above Nishnahbatona,
+having made nine miles. The river fell a little.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_27" id="Pg_27" title="Pg_27">[27]</a></span>July 15. A thick fog prevented our leaving the encampment
+before seven. At about four miles, we reached the extremity
+of the large island, and crossing to the south, at the
+distance of seven miles, arrived at the Little Nemaha, a small
+river from the south, forty yards wide a little above its mouth,
+but contracting, as do almost all the waters emptying into the
+Missouri, at its confluence. At nine and three quarter miles,
+we encamped on a woody point, on the south. Along the
+southern bank, is a rich lowland covered with peavine, and
+rich weeds, and watered by small streams rising in the adjoining
+prairies. They too, are rich, and though with abundance
+of grass, have no timber except what grows near the
+water; interspersed through both are grapevines, plums
+of two kinds, two species of wild-cherries, hazlenuts, and
+gooseberries. On the south there is one unbroken plain; on
+the north the river is skirted with some timber, behind which
+the plain extends four or five miles to the hills, which seem
+to have little wood.</p>
+
+<p>July 16. We continued our route between a large island
+opposite to our last night's encampment, and an extensive
+prairie on the south. About six miles, we came to another
+large island, called Fairsun island, on the same side; above
+which is a spot, where about twenty acres of the hill have
+fallen into the river. Near this, is a cliff of sandstone for
+two miles, which is much frequented by birds. At this place
+the river is about one mile wide, but not deep; as the timber,
+or sawyers, may be seen, scattered across the whole of
+its bottom. At twenty miles distance, we saw on the south,
+an island called by the French, l'Isle Chance, or Bald island,
+opposite to a large prairie, which we called Baldpated
+prairie, from a ridge of naked hills which bound it, running
+parallel with the river as far as we could see, and from
+three to six miles distance. To the south the hills touch the
+river. We encamped a quarter of a mile beyond this, in a
+point of woods on the north side. The river continues to
+fall.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_28" id="Pg_28" title="Pg_28">[28]</a></span>Tuesday, July 17. We remained here this day, in order
+to make observations and correct the chronometer, which
+ran down on Sunday. The latitude we found to be 40&deg; 27'
+5"4/10. The observation of the time proved our chronometer
+too slow, by 6' 51"6/10. The highlands bear from our camp,
+north 25&deg; west, up the river. Captain Lewis rode up the
+country, and saw the Nishnahbatona, about ten or twelve miles
+from its mouth, at a place not more than three hundred
+yards from the Missouri, and a little above our camp.
+It then passes near the foot of the Baldhills, and is at least
+six feet below the level of the Missouri. On its banks
+are the oak, walnut, and mulberry. The common current
+of the Missouri, taken with the log, is 50 fathoms in 40", at
+some places, and even 20".</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday, July 18. The morning was fair, and a gentle
+wind from southeast by south, carried us along between the
+prairie on the north, and Bald island to the south: opposite
+the middle of which, the Nishnahbatona approaches the
+nearest to the Missouri. The current here ran fifty fathoms
+in 41". At thirteen and a half miles, we reached an island
+on the north, near to which the banks overflow; while on
+the south, the hills project over the river and form high
+cliffs. At one point a part of the cliff, nearly three quarters
+of a mile in length, and about two hundred feet in height, has
+fallen into the river. It is composed chiefly of sandstone
+intermixed with an iron ore of bad quality; near the bottom
+is a soft slatestone with pebbles. We passed several bad
+sandbars in the course of the day, and made eighteen miles,
+and encamped on the south, opposite to the lower point of
+the Oven islands. The country around is generally divided
+into prairies, with little timber, except on low points,
+islands, and near creeks, and that consisting of cottonwood,
+mulberry, elm, and sycamore. The river falls fast. An Indian
+dog came to the bank; he appeared to have been lost
+and was nearly starved: we gave him some food, but he
+would not follow us.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_29" id="Pg_29" title="Pg_29">[29]</a></span>Thursday, July 19. The Oven islands are small, and two
+in number; one near the south shore, the other in the middle
+of the river. Opposite to them is the prairie, called
+Terrien's Oven, from a trader of that name. At four and a
+half miles, we reached some high cliffs of a yellow earth,
+on the south, near which are two beautiful runs of water,
+rising in the adjacent prairies, and one of them with a deerlick,
+about two hundred yards from its mouth. In this
+neighbourhood we observed some iron ore in the bank. At two
+and a half miles above the runs, a large portion of the hill,
+for nearly three quarters of a mile, has fallen into the river.
+We encamped on the western extremity of an island,
+in the middle of the river, having made ten and three quarter
+miles. The river falls a little. The sandbars which
+we passed to-day, are more numerous, and the rolling sands
+more frequent and dangerous, than any we have seen; these
+obstacles increasing as we approach the river Platte. The
+Missouri here is wider also than below, where the timber
+on the banks resists the current; while here the prairies
+which approach, are more easily washed and undermined.
+The hunters have brought for the last few days, no quadruped,
+but deer: great quantities of young geese are seen to-day:
+one of them brought calamus, which he had gathered
+opposite our encampment, and a large quantity of sweet-flag.</p>
+
+<p>Friday, July 20. There was a heavy dew last night, and
+this morning was foggy and cool. We passed at about three
+miles distance, a small willow island to the north, and a creek
+on the south, about twenty-five yards wide, called by the
+French, L'eau qui Pleure, or the Weeping Water, and emptying
+itself just above a cliff of brown clay. Thence we made
+two and a half miles to another island; three miles further
+to a third: six miles beyond which is a fourth island; at the
+head of which we encamped on the southern shore; in all
+eighteen miles. The party, who walked on the shore to-day,
+found the plains to the south, rich, but much parched
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_30" id="Pg_30" title="Pg_30">[30]</a></span>with frequent fires, and with no timber, except the scattering
+trees about the sources of the runs, which are numerous
+and fine. On the north, is a similar prairie country.
+The river continues to fall. A large yellow wolf was this
+day killed. For a month past the party have been troubled
+with biles, and occasionally with the dysentery. These
+biles were large tumours which broke out under the arms,
+on the legs, and, generally, in the parts most exposed to action,
+which sometimes became too painful to permit the men
+to work. After remaining some days, they disappeared without
+any assistance, except a poultice of the bark of the elm,
+or of Indian meal. This disorder, which we ascribe to the
+muddiness of the river water, has not affected the general
+health of the party, which is quite as good, if not better,
+than that of the same number of men in any other situation.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, July 21. We had a breeze from the southeast,
+by the aid of which we passed, at about ten miles, a willow
+island on the south, near high lands covered with timber,
+at the bank, and formed of limestone with cemented shells:
+on the opposite side is a bad sandbar, and the land near it is
+cut through at high water, by small channels forming a
+number of islands. The wind lulled at seven o'clock, and
+we reached, in the rain, the mouth of the great river Platte,
+at the distance of fourteen miles. The highlands which
+had accompanied us on the south, for the last eight or ten
+miles, stopped at about three quarters of a mile from the
+entrance of the Platte. Captains Lewis and Clarke ascended
+the river in a periogue, for about one mile, and found the
+current very rapid; rolling over sands, and divided into a
+number of channels; none of which are deeper than five or
+six feet. One of our Frenchmen, who spent two winters on
+it, says that it spreads much more at some distance from the
+mouth; that its depth is generally not more than five or six
+feet; that there are many small islands scattered through
+it, and that from its rapidity and the quantity of its sand, it
+cannot be navigated by boats or periogues, though the Indians
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_31" id="Pg_31" title="Pg_31">[31]</a></span>pass it in small flat canoes made of hides. That the Saline
+or Salt river, which in some seasons is too brackish to be
+drank, falls into it from the south about thirty miles up, and
+a little above it Elkhorn river from the north, running nearly
+parallel with the Missouri. The river is, in fact, much
+more rapid than the Missouri, the bed of which it fills with
+moving sands, and drives the current on the northern shore,
+on which it is constantly encroaching. At its junction the
+Platte is about six hundred yards wide, and the same number
+of miles from the Mississippi. With much difficulty we
+worked round the sandbars near the mouth, and came
+to above the point, having made fifteen miles. A number
+of wolves were seen and heard around us in the evening.</p>
+
+<p>July 22. The next morning we set sail, and having
+found at the distance of ten miles from the Platte, a high
+and shaded situation on the north, we encamped there, intending
+to make the requisite observations, and to send for
+the neighbouring tribes, for the purpose of making known
+the recent change in the government, and the wish of the
+United States to cultivate their friendship.<br /></p>
+
+
+<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p>
+
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_32" id="Pg_32" title="Pg_32">[32]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<!-- ROUTE MAP -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173"
+        alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAP_II" id="CHAP_II"></a>CHAP. II.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Some account of the Pawnee Indians&mdash;Council held with the Otto and Missouri
+Indians&mdash;Council held with another party of the Ottoes&mdash;Death of sergeant
+Floyd&mdash;The party encamp near the mouth of Whitestone river&mdash;The character
+of the Missouri, with the rivers that enter it&mdash;The surrounding country&mdash;The
+various islands, bays, creeks, &amp;c. given in the course of the expedition.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>Our camp is by observation in latitude 41&deg; 3' 11". Immediately
+behind it is a plain about five miles wide, one half
+covered with wood, the other dry and elevated. The low
+grounds on the south near the junction of the two rivers, are
+rich, but subject to be overflowed. Farther up, the banks
+are higher, and opposite our camp the first hills approach
+the river, and are covered with timber, such as oak, walnut,
+and elm. The intermediate country is watered by the
+Papillon, or Butterfly creek, of about eighteen yards wide,
+and three miles from the Platte; on the north are high open
+plains and prairies, and at nine miles from the Platte, the
+Musquitoe creek, and two or three small willow islands.
+We stayed here several days, during which we dried our
+provisions, made new oars, and prepared our despatches and
+maps of the country we had passed, for the president of the
+United States, to whom we intend to send them by a periogue
+from this place. The hunters have found game scarce
+in this neighbourhood; they have seen deer, turkies, and
+grouse; we have also an abundance of ripe grapes; and one
+of our men caught a white catfish, the eyes of which were
+small, and its tail resembling that of a dolphin. The present
+season is that in which the Indians go out into the prairies
+to hunt the buffaloe; but as we discovered some hunter's
+tracks, and observed the plains on fire in the direction of their
+villages, we hoped that they might have returned to gather
+the green indian corn, and therefore despatched two men to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_33" id="Pg_33" title="Pg_33">[33]</a></span>the Ottoes or Pawnee villages with a present of tobacco, and
+an invitation to the chiefs to visit us. They returned after
+two days absence. Their first course was through an open
+prairie to the south, in which they crossed Butterfly creek.
+They then reached a small beautiful river, called Come de
+Cerf, or Elkhorn river, about one hundred yards wide, with
+clear water and a gravelly channel. It empties a little below
+the Ottoe village into the Platte, which they crossed,
+and arrived at the town about forty-five miles from our
+camp. They found no Indians there, though they saw some
+fresh tracks of a small party. The Ottoes were once a powerful
+nation, and lived about twenty miles above the Platte,
+on the southern bank of the Missouri. Being reduced, they
+migrated to the neighborhood of the Pawnees, under whose
+protection they now live. Their village is on the south side
+of the Platte, about thirty miles from its mouth; and their
+number is two hundred men, including about thirty families
+of Missouri Indians, who are incorporated with them. Five
+leagues above them, on the same side of the river, resides
+the nation of Pawnees. This people were among the
+most numerous of the Missouri Indians, but have gradually
+been dispersed and broken, and even since the year 1797,
+have undergone some sensible changes. They now consist
+of four bands; the first is the one just mentioned, of about
+five hundred men, to whom of late years have been added
+the second band, who are called republican Pawnees, from
+their having lived on the republican branch of the river Kanzas,
+whence they emigrated to join the principal band of
+Pawnees: the republican Pawnees amount to nearly two
+hundred and fifty men. The third, are the Pawnees Loups, or
+Wolf Pawnees, who reside on the Wolf fork of the Platte,
+about ninety miles from the principal Pawnees, and number
+two hundred and eighty men. The fourth band originally resided
+on the Kanzas and Arkansaw, but in their wars with
+the Osages, they were so often defeated, that they at last
+retired to their present position on the Red river, where
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_34" id="Pg_34" title="Pg_34">[34]</a></span>they form a tribe of four hundred men. All these tribes live
+in villages, and raise corn; but during the intervals of culture
+rove in the plains in quest of buffaloe.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond them on the river, and westward of the Black
+mountains, are the Kaninaviesch, consisting of about four
+hundred men. They are supposed to have emigrated originally
+from the Pawnees nation; but they have degenerated
+from the improvements of the parent tribe, and no longer
+live in villages, but rove through the plains.</p>
+
+<p>Still further to the westward, are several tribes, who
+wander and hunt on the sources of the river Platte, and
+thence to Rock Mountain. These tribes, of which little
+more is known than the names and the population, are
+first, the Staitan, or Kite Indians, a small tribe of one
+hundred men. They have acquired the name of Kites,
+from their flying; that is, their being always on horseback;
+and the smallness of their numbers is to be attributed to
+their extreme ferocity; they are the most warlike of all
+the western Indians; they never yield in battle; they never
+spare their enemies; and the retaliation of this barbarity
+has almost extinguished the nation. Then come the Wetapahato,
+and Kiawa tribes, associated together, and
+amounting to two hundred men; the Castahana, of three
+hundred men, to which are to be added the Cataka of
+seventy-five men, and the Dotami. These wandering tribes,
+are conjectured to be the remnants of the Great Padouca
+nation, who occupied the country between the upper parts
+of the river Platte, and the river Kanzas. They were visited
+by Bourgemont, in 1724, and then lived on the Kanzas
+river. The seats, which he describes as their residence,
+are now occupied by the Kanzas nation; and of the Padoucas,
+there does not now exist even the name.</p>
+
+<p>July 27. Having completed the object of our stay, we
+set sail, with a pleasant breeze from the N.W. The two
+horses swam over to the southern shore, along which we
+went, passing by an island, at three and a half miles, formed
+by a pond, fed by springs: three miles further is a large
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_35" id="Pg_35" title="Pg_35">[35]</a></span>sand island, in the middle of the river; the land on the south
+being high, and covered with timber; that on the north, a
+high prairie. At ten and a half miles from our encampment,
+we saw and examined a curious collection of graves
+or mounds, on the south side of the river. Not far from
+a low piece of land and a pond, is a tract of about two hundred
+acres in circumference, which is covered with mounds
+of different heights, shapes, and sizes: some of sand, and
+some of both earth and sand; the largest being nearest the
+river. These mounds indicate the position of the ancient
+village of the Ottoes, before they retired to the protection
+of the Pawnees. After making fifteen miles, we encamped
+on the south, on the bank of a high handsome prairie, with
+lofty cottonwood in groves, near the river.</p>
+
+<p>July 28. At one mile, this morning we reached a bluff,
+on the north, being the first highlands, which approach the
+river on that side, since we left the Nadawa. Above this,
+is an island and a creek, about fifteen yards wide, which,
+as it has no name, we called Indian Knob creek, from a
+number of round knobs bare of timber, on the highlands, to
+the north. A little below the bluff, on the north, is the spot
+where the Ayauway Indians formerly lived. They were a
+branch of the Ottoes, and emigrated from this place to the river
+Desmoines. At ten and three quarter miles, we encamped
+on the north, opposite an island, in the middle of the river.
+The land, generally, on the north, consists of high prairie
+and hills, with timber: on the south, low and covered with
+cottonwood. Our hunter brought to us in the evening, a
+Missouri Indian, whom he had found, with two others,
+dressing an elk; they were perfectly friendly, gave him
+some of the meat, and one of them agreed to accompany
+him to the boat. He is one of the few remaining Missouris,
+who live with the Ottoes: he belongs to a small party,
+whose camp is four miles from the river; and he says, that
+the body of the nation is now hunting buffaloe in the plains:
+he appeared quite sprightly, and his language resembled that
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_36" id="Pg_36" title="Pg_36">[36]</a></span>of the Osage, particularly in his calling a chief, inca. We
+sent him back with one of our party next morning,</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, July 29, with an invitation to the Indians, to
+meet us above on the river, and then proceeded. We soon
+came to a northern bend in the river, which runs within
+twenty yards of Indian Knob creek, the water of which is
+five feet higher than that of the Missouri. In less than
+two miles, we passed Boyer's creek on the north, of twenty-five
+yards width. We stopped to dine under a shade, near
+the highland on the south, and caught several large catfish,
+one of them nearly white, and all very fat. Above this
+highland, we observed the traces of a great hurricane,
+which passed the river obliquely from N.W. to S.E. and
+tore up large trees, some of which perfectly sound, and four
+feet in diameter, were snapped off near the ground. We
+made ten miles to a wood on the north, where we encamped.
+The Missouri is much more crooked, since we passed the
+river Platte, though generally speaking, not so rapid; more
+of prairie, with less timber, and cottonwood in the low
+grounds, and oak, black walnut, hickory, and elm.</p>
+
+<p>July 30. We went early in the morning, three and a
+quarter miles, and encamped on the south, in order to wait
+for the Ottoes. The land here consists of a plain, above
+the highwater level, the soil of which is fertile, and covered
+with a grass from five to eight feet high, interspersed
+with copses of large plums, and a currant, like those of the
+United States. It also furnishes two species of honeysuckle;
+one growing to a kind of shrub, common about
+Harrodsburgh (Kentucky), the other is not so high: the
+flowers grow in clusters, are short, and of a light pink colour;
+the leaves too, are distinct, and do not surround the
+stalk, as do those of the common honeysuckle of the United
+States. Back of this plain, is a woody ridge about seventy
+feet above it, at the end of which we formed our camp.
+This ridge separates the lower from a higher prairie, of a
+good quality, with grass, of ten or twelve inches in height,
+and extending back about a mile, to another elevation of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_37" id="Pg_37" title="Pg_37">[37]</a></span>eighty or ninety feet, beyond which is one continued plain.
+Near our camp, we enjoy from the bluffs a most beautiful
+view of the river, and the adjoining country. At a distance,
+varying from four to ten miles, and of a height between seventy
+and three hundred feet, two parallel ranges of highland
+affords a passage to the Missouri, which enriches the
+low grounds between them. In its winding course, it
+nourishes the willow islands, the scattered cottonwood, elm,
+sycamore, lynn, and ash, and the groves are interspersed
+with hickory, walnut, coffeenut, and oak.</p>
+
+<p>July 31. The meridian altitude of this day made the latitude
+of our camp 41&deg; 18' 1-4/10". The hunters supplied
+us with deer, turkies, geese, and beaver; one of the last was
+caught alive, and in a very short time was perfectly tamed.
+Catfish are very abundant in the river, and we have also
+seen a buffaloefish. One our men brought in yesterday
+an animal called, by the Pawnees, chocartoosh, and, by
+the French, blaireau, or badger. The evening is cool,
+yet the musquitoes are still very troublesome.</p>
+
+<p>We waited with much anxiety the return of our messenger
+to the Ottoes. The men whom we despatched to our
+last encampment, returned without having seen any appearance
+of its having been visited. Our horses too had strayed;
+but we were so fortunate as to recover them at the distance
+of twelve miles. Our apprehensions were at length relieved
+by the arrival of a party of about fourteen Ottoe and
+Missouri Indians, who came at sunset, on the second of
+August, accompanied by a Frenchman, who resided among
+them, and interpreted for us. Captains Lewis and Clarke
+went out to meet them, and told them that we would hold a
+council in the morning. In the mean time we sent them
+some roasted meat, pork, flour, and meal; in return for
+which they made us a present of watermelons. We learnt that
+our man Liberte had set out from their camp a day before
+them: we were in hopes that he had fatigued his horse, or
+lost himself in the woods, and would soon return; but we
+never saw him again.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_38" id="Pg_38" title="Pg_38">[38]</a></span>August 8. The next morning the Indians, with their six
+chiefs, were all assembled under an awning, formed with
+the mainsail, in presence of all our party, paraded for the
+occasion. A speech was then made, announcing to them
+the change in the government, our promises of protection,
+and advice as to their future conduct. All the six chiefs
+replied to our speech, each in his turn, according to rank:
+they expressed their joy at the change in the government;
+their hopes that we would recommend them to their great
+father (the president), that they might obtain trade and necessaries;
+they wanted arms as well for hunting as for defence,
+and asked our mediation between them and the Mahas,
+with whom they are now at war. We promised to do
+so, and wished some of them to accompany us to that nation,
+which they declined, for fear of being killed by
+them. We then proceeded to distribute our presents.
+The grand chief of the nation not being of the party, we
+sent him a flag, a medal, and some ornaments for clothing.
+To the six chiefs who were present, we gave a medal of the
+second grade to one Ottoe chief, and one Missouri chief; a
+medal of the third grade to two inferior chiefs of each nation:
+the customary mode of recognizing a chief, being to
+place a medal round his neck, which is considered among
+his tribe as a proof of his consideration abroad. Each of
+these medals was accompanied by a present of paint, garters,
+and cloth ornaments of dress; and to this we added a cannister
+of powder, a bottle of whiskey, and a few presents to
+the whole, which appeared to make them perfectly satisfied.
+The airgun too was fired, and astonished them greatly. The
+absent grand chief was an Ottoe named Weahrushhah,
+which, in English, degenerates into Little Thief. The two
+principal chieftains present were, Shongotongo, or Big
+Horse; and Wethea, or Hospitality; also Shosgusean, or
+White Horse, an Ottoe; the first an Ottoe, the second a
+Missouri. The incidents just related, induced us to give to
+this place the name of the Council-bluff; the situation of it
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_39" id="Pg_39" title="Pg_39">[39]</a></span>is exceedingly favourable for a fort and trading factory, as
+the soil is well calculated for bricks, and there is an abundance
+of wood in the neighbourhood, and the air being pure
+and healthy. It is also central to the chief resorts of the
+Indians: one day's journey to the Ottoes; one and a half to
+the great Pawnees; two days from the Mahas; two and a
+quarter from the Pawnees Loups village; convenient to the
+hunting grounds of the Sioux; and twenty-five days journey
+to Santa Fee.</p>
+
+<p>The ceremonies of the council being concluded, we set
+sail in the afternoon, and encamped at the distance of five
+miles, on the south side, where we found the musquitoes
+very troublesome.</p>
+
+<p>August 4. A violent wind, accompanied by rain, purified
+and cooled the atmosphere last night; we proceeded early,
+and reached a very narrow part of the river, where the
+channel is confined within a space of two hundred yards, by
+a sand point on the north, and a bend on the south; the banks
+in the neighbourhood washing away, the trees falling in,
+and the channel filled with buried logs. Above this is a trading
+house, on the south, where one of our party passed two
+years, trading with the Mahas. At nearly four miles, is a
+creek on the south, emptying opposite a large island of sand;
+between this creek and our last night's encampment, the river
+has changed its bed, and encroached on the southern shore.
+About two miles further, is another creek on the south,
+which, like the former, is the outlet of three ponds, communicating
+with each other, and forming a small lake, which
+is fed by streams from the highlands. At fifteen miles,
+we encamped on the south. The hills on both sides of the
+river are nearly twelve or fifteen miles from each other;
+those of the north containing some timber, while the hills of
+south are without any covering, except some scattering
+wood in the ravines, and near where the creeks pass into
+the hills; rich plains and prairies occupying the intermediate
+space, and partially covered, near the water, with cottonwood.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_40" id="Pg_40" title="Pg_40">[40]</a></span>There has been a great deal of pumice stone on
+shore to-day.</p>
+
+<p>August 5th. We set out early, and, by means of our oars,
+made twenty and a half miles, though the river was crowded
+with sandbars. On both sides the prairies extend along
+the river; the banks being covered with great quantities of
+grapes, of which three different species are now ripe; one
+large and resembling the purple grape. We had some rain
+this morning, attended by high wind; but generally speaking,
+have remarked that thunder storms are less frequent
+than in the Atlantic states, at this season. Snakes too are
+less frequent, though we killed one to-day of the shape and
+size of the rattlesnake, but of a lighter colour. We fixed
+our camp on the north side. In the evening, captain Clarke,
+in pursuing some game, in an eastern direction, found himself
+at the distance of three hundred and seventy yards from
+the camp, at a point of the river whence we had come
+twelve miles. When the water is high, this peninsula
+is overflowed, and judging from the customary and notorious
+changes in the river, a few years will be sufficient to
+force the main current of the river across, and leave the
+great bend dry. The whole lowland between the parallel
+range of hills seems formed of mud or ooze of the
+river, at some former period, mixed with sand and clay.
+The sand of the neighbouring banks accumulates with the
+aid of that brought down the stream, and forms sandbars,
+projecting into the river; these drive the channel to the opposite
+banks, the loose texture of which it undermines, and
+at length deserts its ancient bed for a new and shorter passage;
+it is thus that the banks of the Missouri are constantly
+falling, and the river changing its bed.</p>
+
+<p>August 6. In the morning, after a violent storm of
+wind and rain from N.W. we passed a large island to the
+north. In the channel separating it from the shore, a creek
+called Soldier's river enters; the island kept it from our view,
+but one of our men who had seen it, represents it as about
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_41" id="Pg_41" title="Pg_41">[41]</a></span>forty yards wide at its mouth. At five miles, we came to a
+bend of the river towards the north, a sandbar, running in
+from the south, had turned its course so as to leave the old
+channel quite dry. We again saw the same appearance at
+our encampment, twenty and a half miles distant on the
+north side. Here the channel of the river had encroached
+south, and the old bed was without water, except a few ponds.
+The sandbars are still very numerous.</p>
+
+<p>August 7. We had another storm from the N.W. in
+the course of the last evening; in the morning we proceeded,
+having the wind from the north, and encamped on the northern
+shore, having rowed seventeen miles. The river is
+here encumbered with sandbars, but no islands, except two
+small ones, called Detachment islands, and formed on the
+south side by a small stream.</p>
+
+<p>We despatched four men back to the Ottoes village in
+quest of our man, Liberte, and to apprehend one of the soldiers,
+who left us on the 4th, under pretence of recovering
+a knife which he had dropped a short distance behind, and
+who we fear has deserted. We also sent small presents to
+the Ottoes and Missouris, and requested that they would
+join us at the Maha village, where a peace might be concluded
+between them.</p>
+
+<p>August 8. At two miles distance, this morning we came
+to a part of the river, where there was concealed timber
+difficult to pass. The wind was from the N.W. and we proceeded
+in safety. At six miles, a river empties on the
+northern side, called by the Sioux Indians, Eaneahwadepon,
+or Stone river; and by the French, Petite Riviere des
+Sioux, or Little Sioux river. At its confluence it is eighty
+yards wide. Our interpreter, Mr. Durion, who has been
+to the sources of it, and knows the adjoining country, says
+that it rises within about nine miles of the river Desmoines;
+that within fifteen leagues of that river it passes through a
+large lake nearly sixty miles in circumference, and divided
+into two parts by rocks which approach each other very
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_42" id="Pg_42" title="Pg_42">[42]</a></span>closely: its width is various: it contains many islands, and is
+known by the name of the Lac d'Esprit: it is near the Dogplains,
+and within four days march of the Mahas. The country
+watered by it, is open and undulating, and may be visited
+in boats up the river for some distance. The Desmoines, he
+adds, is about eighty yards wide where the Little Sioux river
+approaches it: it is shoaly, and one of its principal branches
+is called Cat river. Two miles beyond this river is a long
+island which we called Pelican island, from the numbers of
+that animal which were feeding on it: one of these being killed,
+we poured into his bag five gallons of water. An elk,
+too, was shot, and we had again to remark that snakes are
+rare in this part of the Missouri. A meridian altitude near
+the Little Sioux river made the latitude 41&deg; 42' 34". We encamped
+on the north, having come sixteen miles.</p>
+
+<p>August 9. A thick fog detained us until past seven
+o'clock, after which we proceeded with a gentle breeze from
+the southeast. After passing two sandbars we reached, at
+seven and a half miles, a point of highland on the left, near
+which the river has forced itself a channel across a peninsula,
+leaving on the right a circuit of twelve or eighteen miles,
+which is now recognised by the ponds and islands it contains.
+At seventeen and a half miles, we reached a point on the north,
+where we encamped. The hills are at a great distance from
+the river for the last several days; the land, on both sides low,
+and covered with cottonwood and abundance of grape vines.
+An elk was seen to-day, a turkey also shot, and near our
+camp is a beaver den: the musquitoes have been more troublesome
+than ever for the two last days.</p>
+
+<p>August 10. At two and a half miles, we came to a place,
+called Coupee a Jacques, where the river has found a new
+bed, and abridged a circuit of several miles: at twelve and
+a half miles, a cliff of yellow stone on the left. This is the
+first highland near the river above the Council-bluff. After
+passing a number of sandbars we reached a willow island
+at the distance of twenty-two and a half miles, which we
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_43" id="Pg_43" title="Pg_43">[43]</a></span>were enabled to do with our oars and a wind from the S.W.
+and encamped on the north side.</p>
+
+<p>August 11. After a violent wind from the N.W. attended
+with rain, we sailed along the right of the island. At nearly
+five miles, we halted on the south side for the purpose of
+examining a spot where one of the great chiefs of the Mahas
+named Blackbird, who died about four years ago of the
+smallpox, was buried. A hill of yellow soft sandstone rises
+from the river in bluffs of various heights, till it ends in
+a knoll about three hundred feet above the water; on the top
+of this a mound, of twelve feet diameter at the base and six
+feet high, is raised over the body of the deceased king; a
+pole of about eight feet high is fixed in the centre; on which
+we placed a white flag, bordered with red, blue, and white.
+The Blackbird seems to have been a personage of great
+consideration; for ever since his death he is supplied with
+provisions, from time to time, by the superstitious regard of
+the Mahas. We descended to the river and passed a small
+creek on the south, called, by the Mahas, Waucandipeeche,
+(Great Spirit is bad.) Near this creek and the adjoining hills
+the Mahas had a village, and lost four hundred of their nation
+by the dreadful malady which destroyed the Blackbird.
+The meridian altitude made the latitude 42&deg; 1' 3-8/10" north.
+We encamped, at seventeen miles distance, on the north side
+in a bend of the river. During our day's course it has been
+crooked; we observed a number of places in it where the old
+channel is filled up, or gradually becoming covered with willow
+and cottonwood; great numbers of herons are observed
+to-day, and the mosquitoes annoy us very much.</p>
+
+<p>August 12. A gentle breeze from the south, carried
+us along about ten miles, when we stopped to take meridian
+altitude, and sent a man across to our place of observation:
+yesterday he stepped nine hundred and seventy-four
+yards, and the distance we had come round, was eighteen
+miles and three quarters. The river is wider and shallower
+than usual. Four miles beyond this bend a bluff begins, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_44" id="Pg_44" title="Pg_44">[44]</a></span>continues several miles; on the south it rises from the water
+at different heights, from twenty to one hundred and fifty
+feet, and higher as it recedes on the river: it consists of yellow
+and brown clay, with soft sandstone imbeded in it, and
+is covered with timber, among which may be observed some
+red cedar: the lands on the opposite side are low and subject
+to inundation, but contain willows, cottonwood, and
+many grapes. A prairie-wolf came near the bank and barked
+at us; we attempted unsuccessfully to take him. This part
+of the river abounds in beaver. We encamped on a sand-island
+in a bend to the north, having made twenty miles and
+a quarter.</p>
+
+<p>August 13. Set out at daylight with a breeze from the
+southeast, and passed several sandbars. Between ten and
+eleven miles, we came to a spot on the south, where a Mr.
+Mackay had a trading establishment in the year 1795 and
+1796, which he called Fort Charles. At fourteen miles, we
+reached a creek on the south, on which the Mahas reside, and
+at seventeen miles and a quarter, formed a camp on a sandbar,
+to the south side of the river, opposite the lower point
+of a large island. From this place sergeant Ordway and
+four men were detached to the Maha village with a flag
+and a present, in order to induce them to come and hold a
+council with us. They returned at twelve o'clock the next
+day, August 14. After crossing a prairie covered with high
+grass, they reached the Maha creek, along which they proceeded
+to its three forks, which join near the village: they
+crossed the north branch and went along the south; the walk
+was very fatiguing, as they were forced to break their way
+through grass, sunflowers and thistles, all above ten feet
+high, and interspersed with wild pea. Five miles from our
+camp they reached the position of the ancient Maha village:
+it had once consisted of three hundred cabins, but was
+burnt about four years ago, soon after the smallpox had
+destroyed four hundred men, and a proportion of women and
+children. On a hill, in the rear of the village, are the graves
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_45" id="Pg_45" title="Pg_45">[45]</a></span>of the nation; to the south of which runs the fork of the
+Maha creek: this they crossed where it was about ten
+yards wide, and followed its course to the Missouri, passing
+along a ridge of hill for one and a half mile, and a long pond
+between that and the Missouri: they then recrossed the
+Maha creek, and arrived at the camp, having seen no
+tracks of Indians nor any sign of recent cultivation.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning 15th, some men were sent to examine
+the cause of a large smoke from the northeast, and which
+seemed to indicate that some Indians were near; but they
+found that a small party, who had lately passed that way,
+had left some trees burning, and that the wind from that
+quarter blew the smoke directly towards us. Our camp lies
+about three miles northeast from the old Maha village,
+and is in latitude 42&deg; 15' 41". The accounts we have had
+of the effects of the smallpox on that nation are most distressing;
+it is not known in what way it was first communicated
+to them, though probably by some war party. They
+had been a military and powerful people; but when these
+warriors saw their strength wasting before a malady which
+they could not resist, their phrenzy was extreme; they
+burnt their village, and many of them put to death their
+wives and children, to save them from so cruel an affliction,
+and that all might go together to some better country.</p>
+
+<p>On the 16th, we still waited for the Indians: a party had
+gone out yesterday to the Maha creek, which was damned
+up by the beaver between the camp and the village: a second
+went to-day. They made a kind of drag with small willows
+and bark, and swept the creek: the first company brought
+three hundred and eighteen, the second upwards of eight
+hundred, consisting of pike, bass, fish resembling salmon,
+trout, redhorse, buffaloe, one rockfish, one flatback, perch,
+catfish, a small species of perch called, on the Ohio, silverfish,
+a shrimp of the same size, shape and flavour of those
+about Neworleans, and the lower part of the Mississippi.
+We also found very fat muscles; and on the river as well as
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_46" id="Pg_46" title="Pg_46">[46]</a></span>the creek, are different kinds of ducks and plover. The wind,
+which in the morning had been from the northwest, shifted
+round in the evening to the southeast, and as usual we had
+a breeze, which cooled the air and relieve us from the musquitoes,
+who generally give us great trouble.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 17. The wind continued from the southeast, and
+the morning was fair. We observe about us a grass resembling
+wheat, except that the grain is like rye, also some similar
+to both rye and barley, and a kind of timothy, the
+seed of which branches from the main stock, and is more
+like a flaxseed than a timothy. In the evening, one of the
+party sent to the Ottoes, returned with the information that
+the rest were coming on with the deserter: they had also
+caught Liberte, but, by a trick, he made his escape: they
+were bringing three of the chiefs in order to engage our assistance
+in making peace with the Mahas. This nation having
+left their village, that desirable purpose cannot be effected;
+but in order to bring in any neighbouring tribes, we
+set the surrounding prairies on fire. This is the customary signal
+made by traders to apprize the Indians of their arrival:
+it is also used between different nations as an indication of
+any event which they have previously agreed to announce
+in that way; and as soon as it is seen collects the neighbouring
+tribes, unless they apprehend that it is made by their
+enemies.</p>
+
+<p>August 18. In the afternoon the party arrived with the
+Indians, consisting of the Little Thief and the Big Horse,
+whom we had seen on the third, together with six other
+chiefs, and a French interpreter. We met them under a
+shade, and after they had finished a repast with which we
+supplied them, we inquired into the origin of the war between
+them and the Mahas, which they related with great
+frankness. It seems that two of the Missouris went to the
+Mahas to steal horses, but were detected and killed; the
+Ottoes and Missouris thought themselves bound to avenge
+their companions, and the whole nations were at last obliged
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_47" id="Pg_47" title="Pg_47">[47]</a></span>to share in the dispute; they are also in fear of a war
+from the Pawnees, whose village they entered this summer,
+while the inhabitants were hunting, and stole their corn.
+This ingenuous confession did not make us the less desirous
+of negotiating a peace for them; but no Indians have as yet
+been attracted by our fire. The evening was closed by a
+dance; and the next day,</p>
+
+<p>August 19, the chiefs and warriors being assembled at
+ten o'clock, we explained the speech we had already sent
+from the Council-bluffs, and renewed our advice. They all
+replied in turn, and the presents were then distributed: we
+exchanged the small medal we had formerly given to the
+Big Horse for one of the same size with that of Little Thief:
+we also gave a small medal to a third chief, and a kind of
+certificate or letter of acknowledgment to five of the warriors
+expressive of our favour and their good intentions: one
+of them dissatisfied, returned us the certificate; but the chief,
+fearful of our being offended, begged that it might be restored
+to him; this we declined, and rebuked them severely for
+having in view mere traffic instead of peace with their neighbours.
+This displeased them at first; but they at length all
+petitioned that it should be given to the warrior, who then
+came forward and made an apology to us; we then delivered
+it to the chief to be given to the most worthy, and he bestowed
+it on the same warrior, whose name was Great Blue
+Eyes. After a more substantial present of small articles
+and tobacco, the council was ended with a dram to the Indians.
+In the evening we exhibited different objects of curiosity,
+and particularly the airgun, which gave them great
+surprise. Those people are almost naked, having no covering,
+except a sort of breechcloth round the middle, with a loose
+blanket or buffaloe robe painted, thrown over them. The
+names of these warriors, besides those already mentioned
+were Karkapaha, (or Crow's head) and Nenasawa (or Black
+Cat) Missouris; and Sananona (or Iron Eyes) Neswaunja
+(or Big Ox) Stageaunja (or Big Blue Eyes) and Wasashaco
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_48" id="Pg_48" title="Pg_48">[48]</a></span>(or Brave Man) all Ottoes. These two tribes speak
+very nearly the same language: they all begged us to give
+them whiskey.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning, August 20, the Indians mounted their
+horses and left us, having received a canister of whiskey at
+parting. We then set sail, and after passing two islands on
+the north, came to on that side under some bluffs; the first
+near the river since we left the Ayauwa village. Here we
+had the misfortune to lose one of our sergeants, Charles Floyd.
+He was yesterday seized with a bilious cholic, and all our
+care and attention were ineffectual to relieve him: a little
+before his death, he said to captain Clark, "I am going to
+leave you," his strength failed him as he added "I want you
+to write me a letter," but he died with a composure which
+justified the high opinion we had formed of his firmness and
+good conduct. He was buried on the top of the bluff with
+the honours due to a brave soldier; and the place of his interment
+marked by a cedar post, on which his name and the
+day of his death were inscribed. About a mile beyond this
+place, to which we gave his name, is a small river about
+thirty yards wide, on the north, which we called Floyd's river,
+where we encamped. We had a breeze from the southeast,
+and made thirteen miles.</p>
+
+<p>August 21. The same breeze from the southeast carried
+us by a small willow creek on the north, about one mile and
+a half above Floyd's river. Here began a range of bluffs
+which continued till near the mouth of the great Sioux river,
+three miles beyond Floyd's. This river comes in from
+the north, and is about one hundred and ten yards wide.
+Mr. Durion, our Sioux interpreter, who is well acquainted
+with it, says that it is navigable upwards of two hundred
+miles to the falls, and even beyond them; that its sources
+are near those of the St. Peters. He also says, that below
+the falls a creek falls in from the eastward, after passing
+through cliffs of red rock: of this the Indians make their
+pipes; and the necessity of procuring that article, has introduced
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_49" id="Pg_49" title="Pg_49">[49]</a></span>a sort of law of nations, by which the banks of the
+creek are sacred, and even tribes at war meet without hostility
+at these quarries, which possess a right of asylum.
+Thus we find even among savages certain principles deemed
+sacred, by which the rigours of their merciless system of
+warfare are mitigated. A sense of common danger, where
+stronger ties are wanting, gives all the binding force of more
+solemn obligations. The importance of preserving the known
+and settled rules of warfare among civilized nations, in all
+their integrity, becomes strikingly evident; since even savages,
+with their few precarious wants, cannot exist in a state
+of peace or war where this faith is once violated. The wind
+became southerly, and blew with such violence that we took
+a reef in our sail: it also blew the sand from the bars in
+such quantities, that we could not see the channel at any
+distance ahead. At four and a quarter miles, we came to
+two willow islands, beyond which are several sandbars; and
+at twelve miles, a spot where the Mahas once had a village,
+now no longer existing. We again passed a number of sandbars,
+and encamped on the south; having come twenty-four
+and three quarter miles. The country through which we
+passed has the same uniform appearance ever since we left
+the river Platte: rich low-grounds near the river, succeeded
+by undulating prairies, with timber near the waters. Some
+wolves were seen to-day on the sandbeaches to the south;
+we also procured an excellent fruit, resembling a red currant,
+growing on a shrub like the privy, and about the height
+of a wild plum.</p>
+
+<p>August 22. About three miles distance, we joined the
+men who had been sent from the Maha village with our
+horses, and who brought us two deer. The bluffs or hills
+which reach the river at this place, on the south, contain allum,
+copperas, cobalt which had the appearance of soft isinglass,
+pyrites, and sandstone, the two first very pure. Above
+this bluff comes in a small creek on the south, which we call
+Rologe creek. Seven miles above is another cliff, on the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_50" id="Pg_50" title="Pg_50">[50]</a></span>same side, of allum rock, of a dark brown colour, containing
+in its crevices great quantities of cobalt, cemented shells, and
+red earth. From this the river bends to the eastward, and
+approaches the Sioux river within three or four miles. We
+sailed the greater part of the day, and made nineteen miles
+to our camp on the north side. The sandbars are as usual
+numerous: there are also considerable traces of elk; but
+none are yet seen. Captain Lewis in proving the quality of
+some of the substances in the first cliff, was considerably injured
+by the fumes and taste of the cobalt, and took some
+strong medicine to relieve him from its effects. The appearance
+of these mineral substances enable us to account for
+disorders of the stomach, with which the party had been
+affected since they left the river Sioux. We had been in the
+habit of dipping up the water of the river inadvertently and
+making use of it, till, on examination, the sickness was
+thought to proceed from a scum covering the surface of the
+water along the southern shore, and which, as we now discovered,
+proceeded from these bluffs. The men had been
+ordered, before we reached the bluffs, to agitate the water,
+so as to disperse the scum, and take the water, not at the
+surface, but at some depth. The consequence was, that
+these disorders ceased: the biles too which had afflicted the
+men, were not observed beyond the Sioux river. In order
+to supply the place of sergeant Floyd, we permitted the men
+to name three persons, and Patrick Gass having the greatest
+number of votes was made a sergeant.</p>
+
+<p>August 23. We set out early, and at four miles came to a
+small run between cliffs of yellow and blue earth: the wind,
+however, soon changed, and blew so hard from the west,
+that we proceeded very slowly; the fine sand from the bar
+being driven in such clouds, that we could scarcely see. Three
+and a quarter miles beyond this run, we came to a willow
+island, and a sand island opposite, and encamped on the
+south side, at ten and a quarter miles. On the north side is
+an extensive and delightful prairie, which we called Buffaloe
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_51" id="Pg_51" title="Pg_51">[51]</a></span>prairie, from our having here killed the first buffaloe. Two
+elk swam the river to-day and were fired at, but escaped: a
+deer was killed from the boat; one beaver was killed; and
+several prairie wolves were seen.</p>
+
+<p>August 24. It began to rain last night, and continued this
+morning: we proceeded, however, two and a quarter miles,
+to the commencement of a bluff of blue clay, about one hundred
+and eighty, or one hundred and ninety feet on the south
+side: it seems to have been lately on fire; and even now
+the ground is so warm that we cannot keep our hands in it
+at any depth: there are strong appearances of coal, and also
+great quantities of cobalt, or a crystalized substance resembling
+it. There is a fruit now ripe which looks like a currant,
+except that it is double the size, and grows on a bush
+like a privy, the size of a damson, and of a delicious flavour;
+its Indian name means rabbit-berries. We then passed, at
+the distance of about seven miles, the mouth of a creek on
+the north side, called by an Indian name, meaning Whitestone
+river. The beautiful prairie of yesterday, has changed
+into one of greater height, and very smooth and extensive.
+We encamped on the south side, at ten and a quarter
+miles, and found ourselves much annoyed by the musquitoes.<br /></p>
+
+
+<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p>
+
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_52" id="Pg_52" title="Pg_52">[52]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<!-- ROUTE MAP -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173"
+        alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAP_III" id="CHAP_III"></a>CHAP. III.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Whimsical instance of superstition of the Sioux Indians&mdash;Council held with the
+Sioux&mdash;Character of that tribe, their manners, &amp;c.&mdash;A ridiculous instance of
+their heroism&mdash;Ancient fortifications&mdash;Quieurre river described&mdash;Vast herds
+of Buffaloe&mdash;Account of the Petit Chien or Little Dog&mdash;Narrow escape of
+George Shannon&mdash;Description of Whiteriver&mdash;Surprising fleetness of the Antelope&mdash;Pass
+the river of the Sioux&mdash;Description of the Grand Le Tour, or
+Great Bend&mdash;Encamp on the Teton river.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>August 25. Captains Lewis and Clarke, with ten men,
+went to see an object deemed very extraordinary among all
+the neighbouring Indians. They dropped down to the mouth
+of Whitestone river, about thirty yards wide, where they
+left the boat, and at the distance of two hundred yards, ascended
+a rising ground, from which a plain extended itself
+as far as the eye could discern. After walking four miles,
+they crossed the creek where it is twenty-three yards wide,
+and waters an extensive valley. The heat was so oppressive
+that we were obliged to send back our dog to the creek, as
+he was unable to bear the fatigue; and it was not till after
+four hours march that we reached the object of our visit.
+This was a large mound in the midst of the plain about N.
+20&deg; W. from the month of Whitestone river, from which
+it is nine miles distant. The base of the mound is a regular
+parallelogram, the longest side being about three hundred
+yards, the shorter sixty or seventy: from the longest side it
+rises with a steep ascent from the north and south to the
+height of sixty-five or seventy feet, leaving on the top a
+level plain of twelve feet in breadth and ninety in length.
+The north and south extremities are connected by two oval
+borders which serve as new bases, and divide the whole side
+into three steep but regular gradations from the plain. The
+only thing characteristic in this hill is its extreme symmetry,
+and this, together with its being totally detached from
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_53" id="Pg_53" title="Pg_53">[53]</a></span>the other hills which are at the distance of eight or nine
+miles, would induce a belief that it was artificial; but, as the
+earth and the loose pebbles which compose it, are arranged
+exactly like the steep grounds on the borders of the creek,
+we concluded from this similarity of texture that it might
+be natural. But the Indians have made it a great article
+of their superstition: it is called the mountain of Little People,
+or Little Spirits, and they believe that it is the abode of
+little devils, in the human form, of about eighteen inches
+high and with remarkably large heads; they are armed with
+sharp arrows, with which they are very skilful, and are always
+on the watch to kill those who should have the hardihood
+to approach their residence. The tradition is, that
+many have suffered from these little evil spirits, and among
+others, three Maha Indians fell a sacrifice to them a few
+years since. This has inspired all the neighbouring nations,
+Sioux, Mahas, and Ottoes, with such terror, that no consideration
+could tempt them to visit the hill. We saw none of
+these wicked little spirits; nor any place for them, except
+some small holes scattered over the top: we were happy
+enough to escape their vengeance, though we remained some
+time on the mound to enjoy the delightful prospect of the
+plain, which spreads itself out till the eye rests upon the N.W.
+hills at a great distance, and those of N.E. still farther
+off, enlivened by large herds of buffaloe feeding at
+a distance. The soil of these plains is exceedingly fine;
+there is, however, no timber except on the Missouri: all the
+wood of the Whitestone river not being sufficient to cover
+thickly one hundred acres. The plain country which surrounds
+this mound has contributed not a little to its bad reputation:
+the wind driving from every direction over the level
+ground obliges the insects to seek shelter on its leeward side,
+or be driven against us by the wind. The small birds, whose
+food they are, resort of course in great numbers in quest of
+subsistence; and the Indians always seem to discover an unusual
+assemblage of birds as produced by some supernatural
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_54" id="Pg_54" title="Pg_54">[54]</a></span>cause: among them we observed the brown martin employed
+in looking for insects, and so gentle that they did not fly until
+we got within a few feet of them. We have also distinguished
+among numerous birds of the plain, the blackbird,
+the wren or prairie bird, and a species of lark about
+the size of a partridge, with a short tail. The excessive heat
+and thirst forced us from the hill, about one o'clock, to the
+nearest water, which we found in the creek, at three miles
+distance, and remained an hour and a half. We then went
+down the creek, through a lowland about one mile in width,
+and crossed it three times, to the spot where we first reached
+it in the morning. Here we gathered some delicious
+plums, grapes and blue currants, and afterwards arrived at
+the mouth of the river about sunset. To this place the
+course from the mound is S. twenty miles, E. nine miles; we
+there resumed our periogue, and on reaching our encampment
+of last night set the prairies on fire, to warn the Sioux
+of our approach. In the mean time, the boat under serjeant
+Pryor had proceeded in the afternoon one mile, to a bluff
+of blue clay on the south, and after passing a sandbar and
+two sand islands fixed their camp at the distance of six miles
+on the south. In the evening some rain fell. We had
+killed a duck and several birds: in the boat, they had caught
+some large catfish.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, August 26. We rejoined the boat at nine o'clock
+before she set out, and then passing by an island, and under
+a cliff on the south, nearly two miles in extent and composed
+of white and blue earth, encamped at nine miles distance,
+on a sandbar towards the north. Opposite to this, on the
+south, is a small creek called Petit Arc or Little Bow, and a
+short distance above it, an old village of the same name.
+This village, of which nothing remains but the mound of
+earth about four feet high surrounding it, was built by
+a Maha chief named Little Bow, who being displeased with
+Blackbird, the late king, seceded with two hundred followers
+and settled at this spot, which is now abandoned, as the two
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_55" id="Pg_55" title="Pg_55">[55]</a></span>villages have reunited since the death of Blackbird. We
+have great quantities of grapes, and plums of three kinds;
+two of a yellow colour, and distinguished by one of the species
+being longer than the other; and a third round and red:
+all have an excellent flavour, particularly those of the yellow
+kind.</p>
+
+<p>August 27. The morning star appeared much larger than
+usual. A gentle breeze from the southeast carried us by some
+large sandbars, on both sides and in the middle of the river,
+to a bluff, on the south side, at seven and a half miles distant;
+this bluff is of white clay or chalk, under which is much
+stone, like lime, incrusted with a clear substance, supposed
+to be cobalt, and some dark ore. Above this bluff we set
+the prairie on fire, to invite the Sioux. After twelve and a
+half miles, we had passed several other sandbars, and now
+reached the mouth of a river called by the French Jacques
+(James river) or Yankton, from the tribe which inhabits its
+banks. It is about ninety yards wide at the confluence: the
+country which it waters is rich prairie, with little timber:
+it becomes deeper and wider above its mouth, and may be
+navigated a great distance; as its sources rise near those of
+St. Peter's, of the Mississippi, and the red river of lake Winnipeg.
+As we came to the mouth of the river, an Indian
+swam to the boat; and, on our landing, we were met by two
+others, who informed us that a large body of Sioux were
+encamped near us: they accompanied three of our men,
+with an invitation to meet us at a spot above the river: the
+third Indian remained with us: he is a Maha boy, and
+says that his nation have gone to the Pawnees to make peace
+with them. At fourteen miles, we encamped on a sandbar
+to the north. The air was cool, the evening pleasant, the
+wind from the southeast, and light. The river has fallen
+gradually, and is now low.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday, 28th. We passed, with a stiff breeze from the
+south, several sandbars. On the south is a prairie which
+rises gradually from the water to the height of a bluff,
+which is, at four miles distance, of a whitish colour, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_56" id="Pg_56" title="Pg_56">[56]</a></span>about seventy or eighty feet high. Further on is another bluff,
+of a brownish colour, on the north side; and at the distance of
+eight and a half miles is the beginning of Calumet bluff, on the
+south side, under which we formed our camp, in a beautiful
+plain, to wait the arrival of the Sioux. At the first bluff the
+young Indian left us and joined their camp. Before reaching
+Calumet bluff one of the periogues ran upon a log in the river,
+and was rendered unfit for service; so that all our loading
+was put into the second periogue. On both sides of the river
+are fine prairies, with cotton wood; and near the bluff there
+is more timber in the points and valleys than we have been
+accustomed to see.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday, 29th. We had a violent storm of wind and
+rain last evening; and were engaged during the day in repairing
+the periogue, and other necessary occupations;
+when, at four o'clock in the afternoon, sergeant Pryor and
+his party arrived on the opposite side, attended by five
+chiefs, and about seventy men and boys. We sent a boat
+for them, and they joined us, as did also Mr. Durion, the
+son of our interpreter, who happened to be trading with the
+Sioux at this time. He returned with sergeant Pryor to the
+Indians, with a present of tobacco, corn, and a few kettles;
+and told them that we would speak to their chiefs in the
+morning. Sergeant Pryor reported, that on reaching their
+village, which is at twelve miles distance from our camp, he
+was met by a party with a buffaloe robe, on which they desired
+to carry their visitors: an honour which they declined,
+informing the Indians that they were not the commanders
+of the boats: as a great mark of respect, they were then
+presented with a fat dog, already cooked, of which they partook
+heartily, and found it well flavoured. The camps of
+the Sioux are of a conical form, covered with buffaloe
+robes, painted with various figures and colours, with an
+aperture in the top for the smoke to pass through. The
+lodges contain from ten to fifteen persons, and the interior
+arrangement is compact and handsome, each lodge having a
+place for cooking detached from it.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_57" id="Pg_57" title="Pg_57">[57]</a></span>August 30th. Thursday. The fog was so thick that we
+could not see the Indian camp on the opposite side, but it
+cleared off about eight o'clock. We prepared a speech, and
+some presents, and then sent for the chiefs and warriors,
+whom we received, at twelve o'clock, under a large oak tree,
+near to which the flag of the United States was flying. Captain
+Lewis delivered a speech, with the usual advice and
+counsel for their future conduct. We then acknowledged
+their chiefs, by giving to the grand chief a flag, a medal, a
+certificate, with a string of wampum; to which we added a
+chief's coat; that is, a richly laced uniform of the United
+States artillery corps, and a cocked hat and red feather.
+One second chief and three inferior ones were made or recognised
+by medals, and a suitable present of tobacco, and
+articles of clothing. We then smoked the pipe of peace, and
+the chiefs retired to a bower, formed of bushes, by their
+young men, where they divided among each other the presents,
+and smoked and eat, and held a council on the answer
+which they were to make us to-morrow. The young people
+exercised their bows and arrows in shooting at marks for
+beads, which we distributed to the best marksmen; and in
+the evening the whole party danced until a late hour, and in
+the course of their amusement we threw among them some
+knives, tobacco, bells, tape, and binding, with which they
+were much pleased. Their musical instruments were the
+drum, and a sort of little bag made of buffaloe hide, dressed
+white, with small shot or pebbles in it, and a bunch of hair
+tied to it. This produces a sort of rattling music, with
+which the party was annoyed by four musicians during the
+council this morning.</p>
+
+<p>August 31. In the morning, after breakfast, the chiefs
+met, and sat down in a row, with pipes of peace, highly ornamented,
+and all pointed towards the seats intended for
+captains Lewis and Clarke. When they arrived and were
+seated, the grand chief, whose Indian name, Weucha, is,
+in English Shake Hand, and, in French, is called Le Liberateur
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_58" id="Pg_58" title="Pg_58">[58]</a></span>(the deliverer) rose, and spoke at some length, approving
+what we had said, and promising to follow our advice:</p>
+
+<p>"I see before me," said he, "my great father's two sons.
+You see me, and the rest of our chiefs and warriors. We are
+very poor; we have neither powder nor ball, nor knives; and
+our women and children at the village have no clothes. I
+wish that as my brothers have given me a flag and a medal,
+they would give something to those poor people, or let them
+stop and trade with the first boat which comes up the river.
+I will bring chiefs of the Pawnees and Mahas together, and
+make peace between them; but it is better that I should do it
+than my great father's sons, for they will listen to me more
+readily. I will also take some chiefs to your country in the
+spring; but before that time I cannot leave home. I went
+formerly to the English, and they gave me a medal and some
+clothes: when I went to the Spanish they gave me a medal,
+but nothing to keep it from my skin; but now you give me a
+medal and clothes. But still we are poor; and I wish, brothers,
+you would give us something for our squaws."</p>
+
+<p>"When he sat down, Mahtoree, or White Crane, rose:</p>
+
+<p>"I have listened," said he, "to what our father's words
+were yesterday; and I am, to-day, glad to see how you have
+dressed our old chief. I am a young man, and do not wish
+to take much: my fathers have made me a chief: I had much
+sense before, but now I think I have more than ever. What
+the old chief has declared I will confirm, and do whatever
+he and you please: but I wish that you would take pity on
+us, for we are very poor."</p>
+
+<p>Another chief, called Pawnawneahpahbe, then said;</p>
+
+<p>"I am a young man, and know but little: I cannot speak
+well; but I have listened to what you have told the old chief,
+and will do whatever you agree."</p>
+
+<p>The same sentiments were then repeated by Aweawechache.</p>
+
+<p>We were surprised at finding that the first of these titles
+means "Struck by the Pawnee," and was occasioned by some
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_59" id="Pg_59" title="Pg_59">[59]</a></span>blow which the chief had received in battle, from one of the
+Pawnee tribe. The second is, in English, "Half Man," which
+seems a singular name for a warrior, till it was explained
+to have its origin, probably, in the modesty of the chief;
+who, on being told of his exploits, would say, "I am no warrior:
+I am only half a man." The other chiefs spoke very
+little; but after they had finished, one of the warriors delivered
+a speech, in which he declared he would support them.
+They promised to make peace with the Ottoes and Missouris,
+the only nations with whom they are at war. All these
+harangues concluded by describing the distress of the nation:
+they begged us to have pity on them: to send them traders:
+that they wanted powder and ball; and seemed anxious
+that we should supply them with some of their great father's
+milk, the name by which they distinguish ardent
+spirits. We then gave some tobacco to each of the chiefs,
+and a certificate to two of the warriors who attended the
+chief. We prevailed on Mr. Durion to remain here, and
+accompany as many of the Sioux chiefs as he could collect,
+down to the seat of government. We also gave his son a
+flag, some clothes, and provisions, with directions to bring
+about a peace between the surrounding tribe, and to convey
+some of their chiefs to see the president. In the evening
+they left us, and encamped on the opposite bank, accompanied
+by the two Durions. During the evening and night we
+had much rain, and observed that the river rises a little. The
+Indians, who have just left us, are the Yanktons, a tribe of
+the great nation of Sioux. These Yanktons are about two
+hundred men in number; and inhabit the Jacques, Desmoines,
+and Sioux rivers. In person they are stout, well proportioned,
+and have a certain air of dignity and boldness.
+In their dress they differ nothing from the other bands of
+the nation whom we saw, and will describe afterwards: they
+are fond of decorations, and use paint, and porcupine quills,
+and feathers. Some of them wore a kind of necklace of
+white bear's claws, three inches long, and closely strung
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_60" id="Pg_60" title="Pg_60">[60]</a></span>together round their necks. They have only a few fowling
+pieces, being generally armed with bows and arrows, in
+which, however, they do not appear as expert as the more
+northern Indians. What struck us most was an institution,
+peculiar to them, and to the Kite Indians, further to the
+westward, from whom it is said to have been copied. It is
+an association of the most active and brave young men, who
+are bound to each other by attachment, secured by a vow,
+never to retreat before any danger, or give way to their enemies.
+In war they go forward without sheltering themselves
+behind trees, or aiding their natural valour by any
+artifice. This punctilious determination, not to be turned
+from their course, became heroic, or ridiculous, a short
+time since, when the Yanktons were crossing the Missouri
+on the ice. A hole lay immediately in their course, which
+might easily have been avoided, by going round. This the
+foremost of the band disdained to do; but went straight forward,
+and was lost. The others would have followed his
+example, but were forcibly prevented by the rest of the
+tribe. These young men sit, and encamp, and dance together,
+distinct from the rest of the nation: they are generally
+about thirty or thirty-five years old; and such is the deference
+paid to courage, that their seats in council are superior
+to those of the chiefs, and their persons more respected.
+But, as may be supposed, such indiscreet bravery will
+soon diminish the numbers of those who practise it; so that
+the band is now reduced to four warriors, who were among
+our visitors. These were the remains of twenty-two, who
+composed the society not long ago; but, in a battle with the
+Kite Indians, of the Black Mountains, eighteen of them
+were killed, and these four were dragged from the field by
+their companions.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst these Indians remained with us we made very
+minute inquiries relative to their situation and numbers, and
+trade, and manners. This we did very satisfactorily, by
+means of two different interpreters; and from their accounts,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_61" id="Pg_61" title="Pg_61">[61]</a></span>joined to our interviews with other bands of the same nation,
+and much intelligence acquired since, we were enabled
+to understand, with some accuracy, the condition of the
+Sioux hitherto so little known.</p>
+
+<p>The Sioux, or Dacorta Indians, originally settled on the
+Mississippi, and called by Carver, Madowesians, are now
+subdivided into tribes, as follow:</p>
+
+<p>First, The Yanktons: this tribe inhabits the Sioux,
+Desmoines, and Jacques rivers, and number about two hundred
+warriors.</p>
+
+<p>Second, The Tetons of the burnt woods. This tribe numbers
+about three hundred men, who rove on both sides of the
+Missouri, the White, and Teton rivers.</p>
+
+<p>Third. The Tetons Okandandas, a tribe consisting of
+about one hundred and fifty men, who inhabit both sides of
+the Missouri below the Chayenne river.</p>
+
+<p>Fourth, Tetons Minnakenozzo, a nation inhabiting both
+sides of the Missouri, above the Chayenne river, and containing
+about two hundred and fifty men.</p>
+
+<p>Fifth, Tetons Saone; these inhabit both sides of the Missouri
+below the Warreconne river, and consist of about
+three hundred men.</p>
+
+<p>Sixth, Yanktons of the Plains, or Big Devils; who rove on
+the heads of the Sioux, Jacques, and Red river; the most numerous
+of all the tribes, and number about five hundred men.</p>
+
+<p>Seventh, Wahpatone; a nation residing on the St. Peter's,
+just above the mouth of that river, and numbering two
+hundred men.</p>
+
+<p>Eighth, Mindawarcarton, or proper Dacorta or Sioux
+Indians. These possess the original seat of the Sioux, and
+are properly so denominated. They rove on both sides of
+the Mississippi, about the falls of St. Anthony, and consist
+of three hundred men.</p>
+
+<p>Ninth, The Wahpatoota, or Leaf Beds. This nation
+inhabits both sides of the river St. Peter's, below Yellow-wood
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_62" id="Pg_62" title="Pg_62">[62]</a></span>river, amounting to about one hundred and fifty
+men.</p>
+
+<p>Tenth, Sistasoone: this nation numbers two hundred
+men, and reside at the head of the St. Peter's. Of these several
+tribes, more particular notice will be taken hereafter.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, September 1, 1804. We proceeded this morning
+under a light southern breeze, and passed the Calumet
+bluffs; these are composed of a yellowish red, and brownish
+clay as hard as chalk, which it much resembles, and are one
+hundred and seventy, or one hundred and eighty feet high.
+At this place the hills on each side come to the verge of the
+river, those on the south being higher than on the north.
+Opposite the bluffs is a large island covered with timber;
+above which the highlands form a cliff over the river on
+the north side, called White Bear cliff; an animal of that
+kind being killed in one of the holes in it, which are numerous
+and apparently deep. At six miles we came to a large
+sand island covered with cottonwood; the wind was high,
+and the weather rainy and cloudy during the day. We made
+fifteen miles to a place on the north side, at the lower point
+of a large island called Bonhomme, or Goodman's island.
+The country on both sides has the same character of prairies,
+with no timber; with occasional lowlands covered with
+cottonwood, elm and oak: our hunters had killed an elk and
+a beaver: the catfish too are in great abundance.</p>
+
+<p>September 2. It rained last night, and this morning we
+had a high wind from the N.W. We went three miles to
+the lower part of an ancient fortification on the south side,
+and passed the head of Bonhomme island, which is large and
+well timbered: after this the wind became so violent, attended
+by a cold rain, that we were compelled to land at four
+miles on the northern side, under a high bluff of yellow clay,
+about one hundred and ten feet in height. Our hunters supplied
+us with four elk; and we had grapes and plums on the
+banks: we also saw the beargrass and rue, on the side of
+the bluffs. At this place there are highlands on both sides
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_63" id="Pg_63" title="Pg_63">[63]</a></span>of the river which become more level at some distance back,
+and contain but few streams of water. On the southern
+bank, during this day, the grounds have not been so elevated.
+Captain Clarke crossed the river to examine the remains of
+the fortification we had just passed.</p>
+
+
+<!-- Fortification -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_62_f.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_62_t.jpg" width="418" height="700"
+        alt="Fortification" title="Fortification" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>This interesting object is on the south side of the Missouri,
+opposite the upper extremity of Bonhomme island, and
+in a low level plain, the hills being three miles from the
+river. It begins by a wall composed of earth, rising immediately
+from the bank of the river and running in a direct
+course S. 76&deg;, W. ninety six yards; the base of this
+wall or mound is seventy-five feet, and its height about
+eight. It then diverges in a course S. 84&deg; W. and continues
+at the same height and depth to the distance of fifty-three
+yards, the angle being formed by a sloping descent; at the
+junction of these two is an appearance of a hornwork of the
+same height with the first angle: the same wall then pursues
+a course N. 69&deg; W. for three hundred yards: near its
+western extremity is an opening or gateway at right angles
+to the wall, and projecting inwards; this gateway is defended
+by two nearly semicircular walls placed before it, lower
+than the large walls; and from the gateway there seems to
+have been a covered way communicating with the interval
+between these two walls: westward of the gate, the wall
+becomes much larger, being about one hundred and five feet
+at its base, and twelve feet high: at the end of this high
+ground the wall extends for fifty-six yards on a course N. 32&deg; W;
+it then turns N. 23&deg; W. for seventy-three yards:
+these two walls seems to have had a double or covered way;
+they are from ten to fifteen feet eight inches in height, and
+from seventy-five to one hundred and five feet in width at
+the base; the descent inwards being steep, whilst outwards
+it forms a sort of glacis. At the distance of seventy-three
+yards, the wall ends abruptly at a large hollow place much
+lower than the general level of the plain, and from which is
+some indication of a covered way to the water. The space
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_64" id="Pg_64" title="Pg_64">[64]</a></span>between them is occupied by several mounds scattered
+promiscuously through the gorge, in the centre of which is a
+deep round hole. From the extremity of the last wall, in a
+course N. 32&deg; W. is a distance of ninety-six yards over the
+low ground, where the wall recommences and crosses the
+plain in a course N. 81&deg; W. for eighteen hundred and thirty
+yards to the bank of the Missouri. In this course its height
+is about eight feet, till it enters, at the distance of five hundred
+and thirty-three yards, a deep circular pond of seventy-three
+yards diameter; after which it is gradually lower, towards
+the river: it touches the river at a muddy bar, which
+bears every mark of being an encroachment of the water, for
+a considerable distance; and a little above the junction, is a
+small circular redoubt. Along the bank of the river, and
+at eleven hundred yards distance, in a straight line from this
+wall, is a second, about six feet high, and of considerable
+width: it rises abruptly from the bank of the Missouri, at
+a point where the river bends, and goes straight forward,
+forming an acute angle with the last wall, till it enters the
+river again, not far from the mounds just described, towards
+which it is obviously tending. At the bend the Missouri is
+five hundred yards wide; the ground on the opposite side
+highlands, or low hills on the bank; and where the river
+passes between this fort and Bonhomme island, all the distance
+from the bend, it is constantly washing the banks into
+the stream, a large sandbank being already taken from
+the shore near the wall. During the whole course of this
+wall, or glacis, it is covered with trees, among which are
+many large cotton trees, two or three feet in diameter.
+Immediately opposite the citadel, or the part most strongly
+fortified, on Bonhomme island, is a small work in a circular
+form, with a wall surrounding it, about six feet in height.
+The young willows along the water, joined to the general
+appearance of the two shores, induce a belief that the bank
+of the island is encroaching, and the Missouri indemnifies
+itself by washing away the base of the fortification. The
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_65" id="Pg_65" title="Pg_65">[65]</a></span>citadel contains about twenty acres, but the parts between
+the long walls must embrace nearly five hundred acres.</p>
+
+<p>These are the first remains of the kind which we have
+had an opportunity of examining; but our French interpreters
+assure us, that there are great numbers of them on the
+Platte, the Kanzas, the Jacques, &amp;c. and some of our party
+say, that they observed two of those fortresses on the upper
+side of the Petit Arc creek, not far from its mouth; that
+the wall was about six feet high, and the sides of the angles
+one hundred yards in length.</p>
+
+<p>September 3. The morning was cold, and the wind from
+the northwest. We passed at sunrise, three large sandbars,
+and at the distance of ten miles reached a small creek, about
+twelve yards wide, coming in from the north, above a white
+bluff: this creek has obtained the name of Plum creek,
+from the number of that fruit which are in the neighbourhood,
+and of a delightful quality. Five miles further, we
+encamped on the south near the edge of a plain; the river
+is wide, and covered with sandbars to-day: the banks are high
+and of a whitish colour; the timber scarce, but an abundance
+of grapes. Beaver houses too have been observed in
+great numbers on the river, but none of the animals themselves.</p>
+
+<p>September 4. We set out early, with a very cold wind
+from S.S.E. and at one mile and a half, reached a small
+creek, called Whitelime creek, on the south side. Just above
+this is a cliff, covered with cedar trees, and at three miles a
+creek, called Whitepaint creek, of about thirty yards wide:
+on the same side, and at four and a half miles distance from
+the Whitepaint creek, is the Rapid river, or, as it is called
+by the French, la Riverequi Court; this river empties into
+the Missouri, in a course S.W. by W. and is one hundred and
+fifty-two yards wide, and four feet deep at the confluence. It
+rises in the Black mountains, and passes through a hilly country,
+with a poor soil. Captain Clark ascended three miles to
+a beautiful plain, on the upper side, where the Pawnees once
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_66" id="Pg_66" title="Pg_66">[66]</a></span>had a village: he found that the river widened above its
+mouth, and much divided by sands and islands, which, joined
+to the great rapidity of the current, makes the navigation
+very difficult, even for small boats. Like the Platte its waters
+are of a light colour; like that river too it throws out
+into the Missouri, great quantities of sand, coarser even
+than that of the Platte, which form sandbars and shoals
+near its mouth.</p>
+
+<p>We encamped just above it, on the south, having made
+only eight miles, as the wind shifted to the south, and blew
+so hard that in the course of the day we broke our mast:
+we saw some deer, a number of geese, and shot a turkey and
+a duck: the place in which we halted is a fine low-ground,
+with much timber, such as red cedar, honeylocust, oak, arrowwood,
+elm and coffeenut.</p>
+
+<p>September 5, Wednesday. The wind was again high from
+the south. At five miles, we came to a large island, called
+Pawnee island, in the middle of the river; and stopped to
+breakfast at a small creek on the north, which has the
+name of Goat creek, at eight and a half miles. Near the
+mouth of this creek the beaver had made a dam across so
+as to form a large pond, in which they built their houses.
+Above this island the river Poncara falls into the Missouri
+from the south, and is thirty yards wide at the entrance.
+Two men whom we despatched to the village of the same
+name, returned with information that they had found it on
+the lower side of the creek; but as this is the hunting season,
+the town was so completely deserted that they had
+killed a buffaloe in the village itself. This tribe of Poncaras,
+who are said to have once numbered four hundred
+men, are now reduced to about fifty, and have associated for
+mutual protection with the Mahas, who are about two hundred
+in number. These two nations are allied by a similarity
+of misfortune; they were once both numerous, both resided
+in villages, and cultivated Indian corn; their common
+enemies, the Sioux and small-pox, drove them from their
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_67" id="Pg_67" title="Pg_67">[67]</a></span>towns, which they visit only occasionally for the purposes
+of trade; and they now wander over the plains on the sources
+of the Wolf and Quieurre rivers. Between the Pawnee
+island and Goat creek on the north, is a cliff of blue earth,
+under which are several mineral springs, impregnated with
+salts: near this we observed a number of goats, from which
+the creek derives its name. At three and a half miles from
+the creek, we came to a large island on the south, along
+which we passed to the head of it, and encamped about four
+o'clock. Here we replaced the mast we had lost, with a
+new one of cedar: some bucks and an elk were procured to-day,
+and a black tailed deer was seen near the Poncara's village.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday, September 6. There was a storm this morning
+from the N.W. and though it moderated, the wind
+was still high, and the weather very cold; the number of
+sandbars too, added to the rapidity of the current, obliged
+us to have recourse to the towline: with all our exertions
+we did not make more than eight and a half miles, and encamped
+on the north, after passing high cliffs of soft, blue,
+and red coloured stone, on the southern shore. We saw
+some goats, and great numbers of buffaloe, in addition to
+which the hunters furnished us with elk, deer, turkies,
+geese, and one beaver: a large catfish too was caught in
+the evening. The ground near the camp, was a low prarie,
+without timber, though just below is a grove of cottonwood.</p>
+
+<p>Friday, September 7. The morning was very cold and the
+wind southeast. At five and a half miles, we reached and encamped
+at the foot of a round mountain, on the south, having
+passed two small islands. This mountain, which is about three
+hundred feet at the base, forms a cone at the top, resembling
+a dome at a distance, and seventy feet or more above
+the surrounding highlands. As we descended from this dome,
+we arrived at a spot, on the gradual descent of the hill,
+nearly four acres in extent, and covered with small holes:
+these are the residence of a little animal, called by the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_68" id="Pg_68" title="Pg_68">[68]</a></span>French, petit chien (little dog) who sit erect near the
+mouth, and make a whistling noise, but when alarmed take
+refuge in their holes. In order to bring them out, we
+poured into one of the holes five barrels of water without
+filling it, but we dislodged and caught the owner. After
+digging down another of the holes for six feet, we found, on
+running a pole into it, that we had not yet dug half way to
+the bottom: we discovered, however, two frogs in the hole,
+and near it we killed a dark rattlesnake, which had swallowed
+a small prairie dog: we were also informed, though we
+never witnessed the fact, that a sort of lizard, and a snake,
+live habitually with these animals. The petit chien are
+justly named, as they resemble a small dog in some particulars,
+though they have also some points of similarity to
+the squirrel. The head resembles the squirrel in every respect,
+except that the ear is shorter, the tail like that of
+the ground-squirrel, the toe-nails are long, the fur is fine,
+and the long hair is gray.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, September 8. The wind still continued from
+the southeast, but moderately. At seven miles we reached
+a house on the north side, called the Pawnee house, where
+a trader, named Trudeau, wintered in the year 1796-7: behind
+this, hills, much higher than usual, appear to the
+north, about eight miles off. Before reaching this house,
+we came by three small islands, on the north side, and a
+small creek on the south; and after leaving it, reached another,
+at the end of seventeen miles, on which we encamped,
+and called it Boat island: we here saw herds of buffaloe, and
+some elk, deer, turkies, beaver, a squirrel, and a prairie
+dog. The party on the north represent the country through
+which they passed, as poor, rugged, and hilly, with the appearance
+of having been lately burnt by the Indians; the
+broken hills, indeed, approach the river on both sides,
+though each is bordered by a strip of woodland near the
+water.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_69" id="Pg_69" title="Pg_69">[69]</a></span>Sunday, September 9. We coasted along the island on
+which we had encamped, and then passed three sand and
+willow islands, and a number of smaller sandbars. The river
+is shallow, and joined by two small creeks from the
+north, and one from the south. In the plains, to the south,
+are great numbers of buffaloe, in herds of nearly five hundred;
+all the copses of timber appear to contain elk or deer.
+We encamped on a sandbar, on the southern shore, at the
+distance of fourteen and a quarter miles.</p>
+
+<p>September 10, Monday. The next day we made twenty
+miles. The morning was cloudy and dark, but a light breeze
+from the southeast carried us past two small islands on the
+south, and one on the north; till, at the distance of ten and a
+half miles, we reached an island, extending for two miles in
+the middle of the river, covered with red cedar, from which
+it derives its name of Cedar island. Just below this island,
+on a hill, to the south, is the backbone of a fish, forty-five
+feet long, tapering towards the tail, and in a perfect state of
+petrifaction, fragments of which were collected and sent to
+Washington. On both sides of the river are high dark-coloured
+bluffs. About a mile and a half from the island, on the southern
+shore, the party on that side discovered a large and very
+strong impregnated spring of water; and another, not so
+strongly impregnated, half a mile up the hill. Three miles
+beyond Cedar island is a large island on the north, and a
+number of sandbars. After which is another, about a mile
+in length, lying in the middle of the river, and separated by
+a small channel, at its extremity, from another above it, on
+which we encamped. These two islands are called Mud
+islands. The river is shallow during this day's course, and is
+falling a little. The elk and buffaloe are in great abundance,
+but the deer have become scarce,</p>
+
+<p>September 11, Tuesday. At six and a half miles we
+passed the upper extremity of an island on the south;
+four miles beyond which is another on the same side of the
+river; and about a quarter of a mile distant we visited a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_70" id="Pg_70" title="Pg_70">[70]</a></span>large village of the barking-squirrel. It was situated on a
+gentle declivity, and covered a space of nine hundred
+and seventy yards long, and eight hundred yards wide;
+we killed four of them. We then resumed our course,
+and during five and a half miles passed two islands on the
+north, and then encamped at the distance of sixteen miles,
+on the south side of the river, and just above a small run.
+The morning had been cloudy, but in the afternoon it began
+raining, with a high northwest wind, which continued
+during the greater part of the night. The country seen to-day
+consists of narrow strips of lowland, rising into uneven
+grounds, which are succeeded, at the distance of three
+miles, by rich and level plains, but without any timber. The
+river itself is wide, and crowded with sandbars. Elk, deer,
+squirrels, a pelican, and a very large porcupine, were our
+game this day; some foxes too were seen, but not caught.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning we observed a man riding on horseback
+down towards the boat, and we were much pleased to find
+that it was George Shannon, one of our party, for whose
+safety we had been very uneasy. Our two horses having
+strayed from us on the 26th of August, he was sent to search
+for them. After he had found them he attempted to rejoin
+us, but seeing some other tracks, which must have been
+those of Indians, and which he mistook for our own, he concluded
+that we were ahead, and had been for sixteen days
+following the bank of the river above us. During the first
+four days he exhausted his bullets, and was then nearly
+starved, being obliged to subsist, for twelve days, on a few
+grapes, and a rabbit which he killed by making use of a
+hard piece of stick for a ball. One of his horses gave out,
+and was left behind; the other he kept as a last resource for
+food. Despairing of overtaking us, he was returning down
+the river, in hopes of meeting some other boat; and was on
+the point of killing his horse, when he was so fortunate as
+to join us.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_71" id="Pg_71" title="Pg_71">[71]</a></span>Wednesday, September 12. The day was dark and cloudy;
+the wind from the northwest. At a short distance we
+reached an island in the middle of the river, which is
+covered with timber, a rare object now. We with great difficulty
+were enabled to struggle through the sandbars, the
+water being very rapid and shallow, so that we were several
+hours in making a mile. Several times the boat wheeled
+on the bar, and the men were obliged to jump out and prevent
+her from upsetting; at others, after making a way up
+one channel, the shoalness of the water forced us back to seek
+the deep channel. We advanced only four miles in the whole
+day and encamped on the south. Along both sides of the river
+are high grounds; on the southern side particularly, they
+form dark bluffs, in which may be observed slate and coal
+intermixed. We saw also several villages of barking-squirrels;
+great numbers of growse, and three foxes.</p>
+
+<p>September 13, Thursday. We made twelve miles to-day
+through a number of sandbars, which make it difficult to find
+the proper channel. The hills on each side are high, and
+separated from the river by a narrow plain on its borders.
+On the north, these lowlands are covered in part with timber,
+and great quantities of grapes, which are now ripe:
+on the south we found plenty of plums, but they are not yet
+ripe; and near the dark bluffs, a run tainted with allum and
+copperas; the southern side being more strongly impregnated
+with minerals than the northern. Last night four
+beaver were caught in the traps; a porcupine was shot as it
+was upon a cottontree, feeding on its leaves and branches.
+We encamped on the north side, opposite to a small willow
+island. At night the musquitoes were very troublesome,
+though the weather was cold and rainy and the wind from
+the northwest.</p>
+
+<p>Friday, September 14. At two miles we reached a round
+island on the northern side; at about five, a run on the south;
+two and a half miles further, a small creek; and at nine
+miles encamped near the month of a creek, on the same
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_72" id="Pg_72" title="Pg_72">[72]</a></span>side. The sandbars are very numerous, and render the river
+wide and shallow, and obliged the crew to get into the
+water and drag the boat over the bars several times. During
+the whole day we searched along the southern shore,
+and at some distance into the interior, to find an ancient
+volcano which we heard at St. Charles was somewhere in
+this neighbourhood; but we could not discern the slightest
+appearance of any thing volcanic. In the course of their
+search the party shot a buck-goat and a hare. The
+hills, particularly on the south, continue high, but the timber
+is confined to the islands and banks of the river. We
+had occasion here to observe the rapid undermining of these
+hills by the Missouri: the first attacks seem to be on the
+hills which overhang the river; as soon as the violence of
+the current destroys the grass at the foot of them, the whole
+texture appears loosened, and the ground dissolves and mixes
+with the water: the muddy mixture is then forced over
+the low-grounds, which it covers sometimes to the depth of
+three inches, and gradually destroys the herbage; after
+which it can offer no resistance to the water, and becomes
+at last covered with sand.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, September 15. We passed, at an early hour,
+the creek near our last night's encampment; and at two
+miles distance reached the mouth of White river, coming in
+from the south. We ascended a short distance, and sent a
+sergeant and another man to examine it higher up. This river
+has a bed of about three hundred yards, though the water
+is confined to one hundred and fifty: in the mouth is a
+sand island, and several sandbars. The current is regular
+and swift, with sandbars projecting from the points. It
+differs very much from the Platte, and Quieurre, in throwing
+out, comparatively, little sand, but its general character
+is like that of the Missouri. This resemblance was confirmed
+by the sergeant, who ascended about twelve miles;
+at which distance it was about the same width as near the
+mouth, and the course, which was generally west, had been
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_73" id="Pg_73" title="Pg_73">[73]</a></span>interrupted by islands and sandbars. The timber consisted
+chiefly of elm; they saw pine burrs, and sticks of birch were
+seen floating down the river; they had also met with goats,
+such as we have heretofore seen; great quantities of buffaloe,
+near to which were wolves, some deer, and villages of
+barking squirrels. At the confluence of White river with
+the Missouri is an excellent position for a town; the land
+rising by three gradual ascents, and the neighbourhood furnishing
+more timber than is usual in this country. After
+passing high dark bluffs on both sides, we reached the lower
+point of an island towards the south, at the distance of
+six miles. The island bears an abundance of grapes, and
+is covered with red cedar: it also contains a number of rabbits.
+At the end of this island, which is small, a narrow
+channel separates it from a large sand island, which we passed,
+and encamped, eight miles on the north, under a high
+point of land opposite a large creek to the south, on which
+we observe an unusual quantity of timber. The wind was from
+the northwest this afternoon, and high, the weather cold,
+and its dreariness increased by the howlings of a number of
+wolves around us.</p>
+
+<p>September 16, Sunday. Early this morning, having reached
+a convenient spot on the south side, and at one mile and
+a quarter distance, we encamped just above a small creek,
+which we called Corvus, having killed an animal of that genus
+near it. Finding that we could not proceed over the
+sandbars, as fast as we desired, while the boat was so heavily
+loaded, we concluded not to send back, as we originally
+intended, our third periogue, but to detain the soldiers until
+spring, and in the mean time lighten the boat by loading the
+periogue: this operation, added to that of drying all our wet
+articles, detained us during the day. Our camp is in a beautiful
+plain, with timber thinly scattered for three quarters
+of a mile, and consisting chiefly of elm, cottonwood, some
+ash of an indifferent quality, and a considerable quantity of
+a small species of white oak: this tree seldom rises higher
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_74" id="Pg_74" title="Pg_74">[74]</a></span>than thirty feet, and branches very much; the bark is rough,
+thick and of a light colour; the leaves small, deeply indented,
+and of a pale green; the cup which contains the acorn is
+fringed on the edges, and embraces it about one half: the
+acorn itself, which grows in great profusion, is of an excellent
+flavour, and has none of the roughness which most other
+acorns possess; they are now falling, and have probably
+attracted the number of deer which we saw on this place, as
+all the animals we have seen are fond of that food. The
+ground having been recently burnt by the Indians, is covered
+with young green grass, and in the neighbourhood are
+great quantities of fine plums. We killed a few deer for
+the sake of their skins, which we wanted to cover the periogues,
+the meat being too poor for food: the cold season
+coming on, a flannel shirt was given to each man, and fresh
+powder to those who had exhausted their supply.</p>
+
+<p>Monday, September 16. Whilst some of the party were
+engaged in the same way as yesterday, others were employed
+in examining the surrounding country. About a quarter
+of a mile behind our camp, and at an elevation of twenty
+feet above it, a plain extends nearly three miles parallel to
+the river, and about a mile back to the hills, towards which
+it gradually ascends. Here we saw a grove of plum-trees
+loaded with fruit, now ripe, and differing in nothing from
+those of the Atlantic states, except that the tree is smaller
+and more thickly set. The ground of the plain is occupied by
+the burrows of multitudes of barking squirrels, who entice
+hither the wolves of a small kind, hawks, and polecats,
+all of which animals we saw, and presumed that they fed
+on the squirrel. This plain is intersected nearly in its whole
+extent by deep ravines and steep irregular rising grounds
+from one to two hundred feet. On ascending the range
+of hills which border the plain, we saw a second high level
+plain stretching to the south as far as the eye could reach.
+To the westward, a high range of hills about twenty miles distant
+runs nearly north and south, but not to any great extent,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_75" id="Pg_75" title="Pg_75">[75]</a></span>as their rise and termination is embraced by one view,
+and they seemed covered with a verdure similar to that
+of the plains. The same view extended over the irregular
+hills which border the northern side of the Missouri; all
+around the country had been recently burnt, and a young
+green grass about four inches high covered the ground,
+which was enlivened by herds of antelopes and buffaloe; the
+last of which were in such multitudes, that we cannot exaggerate
+in saying that at a single glance we saw three thousand
+of them before us. Of all the animals we had seen the antelope
+seems to possess the most wonderful fleetness: shy and timorous
+they generally repose only on the ridges, which command
+a view of all the approaches of an enemy: the acuteness
+of their sight distinguishes the most distant danger,
+the delicate sensibility of their smell defeats the precautions
+of concealment, and when alarmed their rapid career
+seems more like the flight of birds than the movements of
+an earthly being. After many unsuccessful attempts, captain
+Lewis at last, by winding around the ridges, approached
+a party of seven, which were on an eminence, towards which
+the wind was unfortunately blowing. The only male of the
+party frequently encircled the summit of the hill, as if to
+announce any danger to the females, who formed a group
+at the top. Although they did not see captain Lewis, the
+smell alarmed them, and they fled when he was at the distance
+of two hundred yards: he immediately ran to the spot
+where they had been, a ravine concealed them from him,
+but the next moment they appeared on a second ridge at the
+distance of three miles. He doubted whether it could be the
+same, but their number and the extreme rapidity with which
+they continued their course, convinced him that they must
+have gone with a speed equal to that of the most distinguished
+racehorse. Among our acquisitions to-day was a mule-deer,
+a magpie, the common deer, and buffaloe: captain Lewis
+also saw a hare, and killed a rattlesnake near the burrows
+of the barking squirrels.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_76" id="Pg_76" title="Pg_76">[76]</a></span>Tuesday, September 18. Having everything in readiness
+we proceeded, with the boat much lightened, but the wind
+being from the N.W. we made but little way. At one mile
+we reached an island in the middle of the river, nearly a
+mile in length, and covered with red cedar; at its extremity
+a small creek comes in from the north; we then met some
+sandbars, and the wind being very high and ahead, we encamped
+on the south, having made only seven miles. In addition
+to the common deer, which were in great abundance,
+we saw goats, elk, buffaloe, the black tailed deer; the large
+wolves too are very numerous, and have long hair with
+coarse fur, and are of a light colour. A small species of
+wolf about the size of a gray fox was also killed, and proved
+to be the animal which we had hitherto mistaken for a
+fox: there are also many porcupines, rabbits, and barking
+squirrels in the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>September 19. We this day enjoyed a cool clear morning,
+and a wind from the southeast. We reached at three miles
+a bluff on the south, and four miles farther, the lower point
+of Prospect island, about two and a half miles in length;
+opposite to this are high bluffs, about eighty feet above the
+water, beyond which are beautiful plains gradually rising
+as they recede from the river: these are watered by three
+streams which empty near each other; the first is about
+thirty-five yards wide, the ground on its sides high and rich,
+with some timber; the second about twelve yards wide, but
+with less timber; the third is nearly of the same size, and
+contains more water, but it scatters its waters over the large
+timbered plain, and empties itself into the river at three
+places. These rivers are called by the French Les trois rivieres
+des Sioux, the three Sioux rivers; and as the Sioux
+generally cross the Missouri at this place, it is called the
+Sioux pass of the three rivers. These streams have the same
+right of asylum, though in a less degree than Pipestone
+creek already mentioned.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_77" id="Pg_77" title="Pg_77">[77]</a></span>Two miles from the island we passed a creek fifteen
+yards wide; eight miles further, another twenty yards
+wide; three miles beyond which, is a third of eighteen yards
+width, all on the south side: the second which passes through
+a high plain we called Elm creek; to the third we gave the
+name of Night creek, having reached it late at night. About
+a mile beyond this is a small island on the north side of the
+river, and is called Lower island, as it is situated at the
+commencement of what is known by the name of the Grand
+Detour, or Great Bend of the Missouri. Opposite is a
+creek on the south about ten yards wide, which waters a
+plain where there are great numbers of the prickley pear,
+which name we gave to the creek. We encamped on the
+south, opposite the upper extremity of the island, having
+made an excellent day's sail of twenty six and a quarter miles.
+Our game this day consisted chiefly of deer, of these four
+were black tails, one a buck with two main prongs of horns
+on each side and forked equally. Large herds of buffaloe,
+elk and goats, were also seen.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday, September 20. Finding we had reached the
+Big Bend, we despatched two men with our only horse
+across the neck, to hunt there and wait our arrival at the
+first creek beyond it. We then set out with fair weather
+and the wind from S.E. to make the circuit of the bend.
+Near the lower island the sandbars are numerous, and the
+river shallow. At nine and a half miles is a sand island, on
+the southern side. About ten miles beyond it is a small
+island on the south, opposite to a small creek on the north.
+This island, which is near the N.W. extremity of the bend,
+is called Solitary island. At about eleven miles further,
+we encamped on a sandbar, having made twenty-seven and
+a half miles. Captain Clarke, who early this morning had
+crossed the neck of the bend, joined us in the evening. At
+the narrowest part, the gorge is composed of high and irregular
+hills of about one hundred and eighty or one hundred
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_78" id="Pg_78" title="Pg_78">[78]</a></span>and ninety feet in elevation; from this descends an
+unbroken plain over the whole of the bend, and the country
+is separated from it by this ridge. Great numbers of buffaloe,
+elk, and goats are wandering over these plains, accompanied
+by grouse and larks. Captain Clarke saw a hare also, on the
+Great Bend. Of the goats killed to-day, one is a female
+differing from the male in being smaller in size; its horns
+too are smaller and straighter, having one short prong, and
+no black about the neck: none of these goats have any beard,
+but are delicately formed, and very beautiful.</p>
+
+<p>Friday, September 21. Between one and two o'clock the
+serjeant on guard alarmed us, by crying that the sandbar
+on which we lay was sinking; we jumped up, and found
+that both above and below our camp the sand was undermined
+and falling in very fast: we had scarcely got into the
+boats and pushed off, when the bank under which they had
+been lying, fell in, and would certainly have sunk the two
+periogues if they had remained there. By the time we
+reached the opposite shore the ground of our encampment
+sunk also. We formed a second camp for the rest of the
+night; and at daylight proceeded on to the gorge or throat of
+the Great Bend, where we breakfasted. A man, whom we
+had despatched to step off the distance across the bend, made
+it two thousand yards: the circuit is thirty miles. During
+the whole course, the land of the bend is low, with occasional
+bluffs; that on the opposite side, high prairie ground,
+and long ridges of dark bluffs. After breakfast, we passed
+through a high prairie on the north side, and a rich cedar
+lowland and cedar bluff on the south, till we reached a willow
+island below the mouth of a small creek. This creek,
+called Tyler's river, is about thirty-five yards wide, comes
+in on the south, and is at the distance of six miles from the
+neck of the Great Bend. Here we found a deer, and the
+skin of a white wolf, left us by our hunters ahead: large
+quantities of different kinds of plover and brants are in
+this neighbourhood, and seen collecting and moving towards
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_79" id="Pg_79" title="Pg_79">[79]</a></span>the south; the catfish are small, and not in such plenty as
+we had found them below this place. We passed several
+sandbars, which make the river very shallow and about a
+mile in width, and encamped on the south, at the distance
+of eleven and a half miles. On each side the shore is lined
+with hard rough gulleystones, rolled from the hills and
+small brooks. The most common timber is the cedar,
+though, in the prairies, there are great quantities of the
+prickly pear. From this place we passed several sandbars,
+which make the river shallow, and about a mile in width.
+At the distance of eleven and a half miles, we encamped on
+the north at the lower point of an ancient island, which
+has since been connected with the main land by the filling
+up of the northern channel, and is now covered with cottonwood.
+We here saw some tracks of Indians, but they
+appeared three or four weeks old. This day was warm.</p>
+
+<p>September 22. A thick fog detained us until seven
+o'clock; our course was through inclined prairies on each
+side of the river, crowded with buffaloe. We halted at a
+point on the north side, near a high bluff on the south, and
+took a meridian altitude, which gave us the latitude of 44&deg;
+11' 33-3/10". On renewing our course, we reached first a small
+island on the south, at the distance of four and a half miles,
+immediately above which is another island opposite to a
+creek fifteen yards wide. This creek, and the two islands,
+one of which is half a mile long, and the second three miles,
+are called the Three Sisters: a beautiful plain extending on
+both sides of the river. This is followed by an island on the
+north, called Cedar island, about one mile and a half in
+length and the same distance in breadth, and deriving its
+name from the quality of the timber. On the south side of
+this island, is a fort and a large trading house, built by a
+Mr. Loisel, who wintered here during the last year, in order
+to trade with the Sioux, the remains of whose camps are
+in great numbers about this place. The establishment is
+sixty or seventy feet square, built with red cedar and picketted
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_80" id="Pg_80" title="Pg_80">[80]</a></span>in with the same materials. The hunters who had
+been sent ahead joined us here. They mention that the
+hills are washed in gullies, in passing over which, some mineral
+substances had rotted and destroyed their moccasins;
+they had killed two deer and a beaver. At sixteen miles
+distance we came to on the north side at the mouth of a
+small creek. The large stones which we saw yesterday on
+the shores are now some distance in the river, and render
+the navigation dangerous. The musquitoes are still numerous
+in the low grounds.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, September 23. We passed, with a light breeze
+from the southeast, a small island on the north, called Goat
+island; above which is a small creek, called by the party
+Smoke creek, as we observed a great smoke to the southwest
+on approaching it. At ten miles we came to the lower
+point of a large island, having passed two small willow
+islands with sandbars projecting from them. This island,
+which we called Elk island, is about two and a half
+miles long, and three quarters of a mile wide, situated
+near the south, and covered with cottonwood, the red currant,
+and grapes. The river is here almost straight for a
+considerable distance, wide and shallow, with many sandbars.
+A small creek on the north, about sixteen yards
+wide, we called Reuben's creek; as Reuben Fields, one of
+our men, was the first of the party who reached it. At a
+short distance above this we encamped for the night, having
+made twenty miles. The country, generally, consists of
+low, rich, timbered ground on the north, and high barren
+lands on the south: on both sides great numbers of buffaloe
+are feeding. In the evening three boys of the Sioux
+nation swam across the river, and informed us that two
+parties of Sioux were encamped on the next river, one consisting
+of eighty, and the second of sixty lodges, at some
+distance above. After treating them kindly we sent them
+back with a present of two carrots of tobacco to their
+chiefs, whom we invited to a conference in the morning.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_81" id="Pg_81" title="Pg_81">[81]</a></span>Monday, September 24. The wind was from the east,
+and the day fair; we soon passed a handsome prairie on the
+north side, covered with ripe plums, and the mouth of a
+creek on the south, called Highwater creek, a little above
+our encampment. At about five miles we reached an island
+two and a half miles in length, and situated near the south.
+Here we were joined by one of our hunters, who procured
+four elk, but whilst he was in pursuit of the game the Indians
+had stolen his horse. We left the island, and soon
+overtook five Indians on the shore: we anchored and told
+them from the boat we were friends and wished to continue
+so, but were not afraid of any Indians; that some of their
+young men had stolen the horse which their great father
+had sent for their great chief, and that we could not treat
+with them until he was restored. They said that they
+knew nothing of the horse, but if he had been taken he
+should be given up. We went on, and at eleven and a half
+miles, passed an island on the north, which we called Good-humoured
+island; it is about one and a half miles long, and
+abounds in elk. At thirteen and a half miles, we anchored one
+hundred yards off the mouth of a river on the south side,
+where we were joined by both the periogues and encamped;
+two thirds of the party remained on board, and the rest
+went as a guard on shore with the cooks and one periogue; we
+have seen along the sides of the hills on the north a great
+deal of stone; besides the elk, we also observed a hare; the
+five Indians whom we had seen followed us, and slept with
+the guard on shore. Finding one of them was a chief we
+smoked with him, and made him a present of tobacco. This
+river is about seventy yards wide, and has a considerable
+current. As the tribe of the Sioux which inhabit it are called
+Teton, we gave it the name of Teton river.</p>
+
+
+<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p>
+
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_82" id="Pg_82" title="Pg_82">[82]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<!-- ROUTE MAP -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173"
+        alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAP_IV" id="CHAP_IV"></a>CHAP. IV.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Council held with the Tetons&mdash;Their manners, dances, &amp;c.&mdash;Chayenne River&mdash;Council
+held with the Ricara Indians&mdash;Their manners and habits&mdash;Strange
+instance of Ricara idolatry&mdash;Another instance&mdash;Cannonball river&mdash;Arrival
+among the Mandans&mdash;Character of the surrounding country, and of the
+creeks, islands, &amp;c.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>September 25. The morning was fine, and the wind
+continued from the southeast. We raised a flagstaff and
+an awning, under which we assembled at twelve o'clock,
+with all the party parading under arms. The chiefs and
+warriors from the camp two miles up the river, met us,
+about fifty or sixty in number, and after smoking delivered
+them a speech; but as our Sioux interpreter, Mr. Durion,
+had been left with the Yanktons, we were obliged to make
+use of a Frenchman who could not speak fluently, and
+therefore we curtailed our harangue. After this we went
+through the ceremony of acknowledging the chiefs, by
+giving to the grand chief a medal, a flag of the United
+States, a laced uniform coat, a cocked hat and feather: to
+the two other chiefs a medal and some small presents; and
+to two warriors of consideration certificates. The name of the
+great chief is Untongasabaw, or Black Buffaloe; the second
+Tortohonga, or the Partisan; the third Tartongawaka, or
+Buffaloe Medicine: the name of one of the warriors was
+Wawzinggo; that of the second Matocoquepa, or Second
+Bear. We then invited the chiefs on board, and showed
+them the boat, the airgun, and such curiosities as we
+thought might amuse them: In this we succeeded too well;
+for after giving them a quarter of a glass of whiskey, which
+they seemed to like very much, and sucked the bottle, it
+was with much difficulty that we could get rid of them.
+They at last accompanied captain Clarke on shore in a periogue
+with five men; but it seems they had formed a design
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_83" id="Pg_83" title="Pg_83">[83]</a></span>to stop us; for no sooner had the party landed than three of
+the Indians seized the cable of the periogue, and one of the
+soldiers of the chief put his arms round the mast: the
+second chief who affected intoxication, then said, that we
+should not go on, that they had not received presents enough
+from us; captain Clarke told him that he would not be
+prevented from going on; that we were not squaws, but
+warriors; that we were sent by our great father, who could
+in a moment exterminate them: the chief replied, that he
+too had warriors, and was proceeding to offer personal violence
+to captain Clarke, who immediately drew his sword,
+and made a signal to the boat to prepare for action. The
+Indians who surrounded him, drew their arrows from their
+quivers and were bending their bows, when the swivel in
+the boat was instantly pointed towards them, and twelve of
+our most determined men jumped into the periogue and
+joined captain Clarke. This movement made an impression
+on them, for the grand chief ordered the young men
+away from the periogue, and they withdrew and held a
+short council with the warriors. Being unwilling to irritate
+them, captain Clarke then went forward and offered
+his hand to the first and second chiefs, who refused to take
+it. He then turned from them and got into the periogue,
+but had not gone more than ten paces when both the chiefs
+and two of the warriors waded in after him, and he brought
+them on board. We then proceeded on for a mile and anchored
+off a willow island, which from the circumstances
+which had just occurred, we called Badhumoured island.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday, September 26. Our conduct yesterday
+seemed to have inspired the Indians with fear of us, and as
+we were desirous of cultivating their acquaintance, we
+complied with their wish that we should give them an opportunity
+of treating us well, and also suffer their squaws
+and children to see us and our boat, which would be perfectly
+new to them. Accordingly, after passing at one and
+a half mile a small willow island and several sandbars,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_84" id="Pg_84" title="Pg_84">[84]</a></span>we came to on the south side, where a crowd of men, women
+and children were waiting to receive us. Captain
+Lewis went on shore and remained several hours, and observing
+that their disposition was friendly we resolved to
+remain during the night to a dance, which they were preparing
+for us. Captains Lewis and Clarke, who went on
+shore one after the other, were met on landing by ten well
+dressed young men, who took them up in a robe highly decorated
+and carried them to a large council house, where
+they were placed on a dressed buffaloe skin by the side of
+the grand chief. The hall or council-room was in the shape
+of three quarters of a circle, covered at the top and sides
+with skins well dressed and sewed together. Under this
+shelter sat about seventy men, forming a circle round the
+chief, before whom were placed a Spanish flag and the one
+we had given them yesterday. This left a vacant circle of
+about six feet diameter, in which the pipe of peace was
+raised on two forked sticks, about six or eight inches from
+the ground, and under it the down of the swan was scattered:
+a large fire, in which they were cooking provisions,
+stood near, and in the centre about four hundred pounds of
+excellent buffaloe meat as a present for us. As soon as we
+were seated, an old man got up, and after approving what
+we had done, begged us to take pity on their unfortunate
+situation. To this we replied with assurances of protection.
+After he had ceased, the great chief rose and delivered an
+harangue to the same effect: then with great solemnity he
+took some of the most delicate parts of the dog, which
+was cooked for the festival, and held it to the flag by way
+of sacrifice: this done, he held up the pipe of peace, and
+first pointed it towards the heavens, then to the four quarters
+of the globe, and then to the earth, made a short
+speech, lighted the pipe, and presented it to us. We smoked,
+and he again harangued his people, after which the repast
+was served up to us. It consisted of the dog which they
+had just been cooking, this being a great dish among the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_85" id="Pg_85" title="Pg_85">[85]</a></span>Sioux and used on all festivals; to this were added, pemitigon,
+a dish made of buffaloe meat, dried or jerked, and then
+pounded and mixed raw with grease and a kind of ground
+potatoe, dressed like the preparation of Indian corn called
+hominy, to which it is little inferior. Of all these luxuries
+which were placed before us in platters with horn spoons,
+we took the pemitigon and the potatoe, which we found
+good, but we could as yet partake but sparingly of the dog.
+We eat and smoked for an hour, when it became dark:
+every thing was then cleared away for the dance, a large
+fire being made in the centre of the house, giving at once
+light and warmth to the ballroom. The orchestra was
+composed of about ten men, who played on a sort of tambourin,
+formed of skin stretched across a hoop; and made a
+jingling noise with a long stick to which the hoofs of deer
+and goats were hung; the third instrument was a small
+skin bag with pebbles in it: these, with five or six young
+men for the vocal part, made up the band. The women
+then came forward highly decorated; some with poles in
+their hands, on which were hung the scalps of their enemies;
+others with guns, spears or different trophies, taken
+in war by their husbands, brothers, or connexions. Having
+arranged themselves in two columns, one on each side of the
+fire, as soon as the music began they danced towards each
+other till they met in the centre, when the rattles were
+shaken, and they all shouted and returned back to their
+places. They have no step, but shuffle along the ground;
+nor does the music appear to be any thing more than a confusion
+of noises, distinguished only by hard or gentle
+blows upon the buffaloe skin: the song is perfectly extemporaneous.
+In the pauses of the dance, any man of the
+company comes forward and recites, in a sort of low guttural
+tone, some little story or incident, which is either martial
+or ludicrous; or, as was the case this evening, voluptuous
+and indecent; this is taken up by the orchestra and the
+dancers, who repeat it in a higher strain and dance to it.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_86" id="Pg_86" title="Pg_86">[86]</a></span>Sometimes they alternate; the orchestra first performing,
+and when it ceases, the women raise their voices and
+make a music more agreeable, that is, less intolerable than
+that of the musicians. The dances of the men, which are
+always separate from those of the women, are conducted
+very nearly in the same way, except that the men jump up
+and down instead of shuffling; and in the war dances the recitations
+are all of a military cast. The harmony of the entertainment
+had nearly been disturbed by one of the musicians,
+who thinking he had not received a due share of the
+tobacco we had distributed during the evening, put himself
+into a passion, broke one of the drums, threw two of them
+into the fire, and left the band. They were taken out of the
+fire: a buffaloe robe held in one hand and beaten with the
+other, by several of the company, supplied the place of the
+lost drum or tambourin, and no notice was taken of the offensive
+conduct of the man. We staid till twelve o'clock at
+night, when we informed the chiefs that they must be fatigued
+with all these attempts to amuse us, and retired accompanied
+by four chiefs, two of whom spent the night with
+us on board.</p>
+
+<p>While on shore we saw twenty-five squaws, and about
+the same number of children, who had been taken prisoners
+two weeks ago, in a battle with their countrymen the Mahas.
+In this engagement the Sioux destroyed forty lodges, killed
+seventy-five men, of which we saw many of the scalps, and
+took these prisoners; their appearance is wretched and dejected;
+the women too seem low in stature, coarse and ugly;
+though their present condition may diminish their beauty.
+We gave them a variety of small articles, such as awls and
+needles, and interceded for them with the chiefs, to whom
+we recommended to follow the advice of their great father,
+to restore the prisoners and live in peace with the Mahas,
+which they promised to do.</p>
+
+<p>The tribe which we this day saw, are a part of the great
+Sioux nation, and are known by the name of the Teton Okandandas:
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_87" id="Pg_87" title="Pg_87">[87]</a></span>they are about two hundred men in number, and
+their chief residence is on both sides of the Missouri, between
+the Chayenne and Teton rivers. In their persons they are
+rather ugly and ill made, their legs and arms being too small,
+their cheekbones high, and their eyes projecting. The females,
+with the same character of form, are more handsome;
+and both sexes appear cheerful and sprightly; but in our
+intercourse with them we discovered that they were cunning
+and vicious.</p>
+
+<p>The men shave the hair off their heads, except a small
+tuft on the top, which they suffer to grow and wear in
+plaits over the shoulders; to this they seem much attached,
+as the loss of it is the usual sacrifice at the death of near
+relations. In full dress, the men of consideration wear a hawk's
+feather, or calumet feather worked with porcupine quills,
+and fastened to the top of the head, from which it falls back.
+The face and body are generally painted with a mixture of
+grease and coal. Over the shoulders is a loose robe or mantle
+of buffaloe skin dressed white, adorned with porcupine quills
+loosely fixed so as to make a gingling noise when in motion,
+and painted with various uncouth figures unintelligible to
+us, but to them emblematic of military exploits, or any other
+incident; the hair of the robe is worn next the skin in fair
+weather, but when it rains the hair is put outside, and the
+robe is either thrown over the arm, or wrapped round the
+body, all of which it may cover. Under this in the winter
+season they wear a kind of shirt resembling ours, and made
+either of skin or cloth, and covering the arms and body.
+Round the middle is fixed a girdle of cloth or procured dressed
+elk-skin, about an inch in width and closely tied to the
+body, to this is attached a piece of cloth or blanket or skin
+about a foot wide, which passes between the legs and is
+tucked under the girdle both before and behind; from the
+hip to the ancle he is covered by leggings of dressed antelope
+skins, with seams at the sides two inches in width, and
+ornamented by little tufts of hair the produce of the scalps
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_88" id="Pg_88" title="Pg_88">[88]</a></span>they have made in war, which are scattered down the leg.
+The winter moccasins are of dressed buffaloe-skin, the hair
+being worn inwards, and soaled with thick elk-skin parchment:
+those for summer are of deer or elk-skin, dressed
+without the hair, and with soals of elk-skin. On great occasions,
+or wherever they are in full dress, the young men
+drag after them the entire skin of a polecat fixed to the heel
+of the moccasin. Another skin of the same animal is either
+tucked into the girdle or carried in the hand, and serves as
+a pouch for their tobacco, or what the French traders call
+the bois roule: this is the inner bark of a species of red willow,
+which being dried in the sun or over the fire, is rubbed
+between the hands and broken into small pieces, and is used
+alone or mixed with tobacco. The pipe is generally of red
+earth, the stem made of ash, about three or four feet long,
+and highly decorated with feathers, hair and porcupine
+quills.</p>
+
+<p>The hair of the women is suffered to grow long, and is
+parted from the forehead across the head, at the back of
+which it is either collected into a kind of bag, or hangs down
+over the shoulders. Their moccasins are like those of the
+men, as are also the leggings, which do not however reach
+beyond the knee, where it is met by a long loose shift of skin
+which reaches nearly to the ancles: this is fastened over the
+shoulders by a string and has no sleeves, but a few pieces of
+the skin hang a short distance down the arm. Sometimes a
+girdle fastens this skin round the waist, and over all is thrown
+a robe like that worn by the men. They seem fond of dress.
+Their lodges are very neatly constructed, in the same form as
+those of the Yanktons; they consist of about one hundred
+cabins, made of white buffaloe hide dressed, with a larger
+one in the centre for holding councils and dances. They
+are built round with poles about fifteen or twenty feet high,
+covered with white skins; these lodges may be taken to
+pieces, packed up, and carried with the nation wherever
+they go, by dogs which bear great burdens. The women
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_89" id="Pg_89" title="Pg_89">[89]</a></span>are chiefly employed in dressing buffaloe skins: they seem
+perfectly well disposed, but are addicted to stealing any
+thing which they can take without being observed. This
+nation, although it makes so many ravages among its neighbours,
+is badly supplied with guns. The water which they
+carry with them is contained chiefly in the paunches of
+deer and other animals, and they make use of wooden
+bowls. Some had their heads shaved, which we found was
+a species of mourning for relations. Another usage, on
+these occasions, is to run arrows through the flesh both
+above and below the elbow.</p>
+
+<p>While on shore to-day we witnessed a quarrel between
+two squaws, which appeared to be growing every moment
+more boisterous, when a man came forward, at whose approach
+every one seemed terrified and ran. He took the
+squaws, and without any ceremony whipped them severely;
+on inquiring into the nature of such summary justice, we
+learnt that this man was an officer well known to this and
+many other tribes. His duty is to keep the peace, and the
+whole interior police of the village is confided to two or three
+of these officers, who are named by the chief and remain
+in power some days, at least till the chief appoints
+a successor; they seem to be a sort of constable or sentinel,
+since they are always on the watch to keep tranquillity
+during the day, and guarding the camp in the night.
+The short duration of their office is compensated by its
+authority: his power is supreme, and in the suppression of
+any riot or disturbance no resistance to him is suffered: his
+person is sacred, and if in the execution of his duty he strikes
+even a chief of the second class, he cannot be punished for
+this salutary insolence. In general they accompany the
+person of the chief, and when ordered to any duty, however
+dangerous, it is a point of honour rather to die than
+to refuse obedience. Thus, when they attempted to stop us
+yesterday, the chief ordered one of these men to take possession
+of the boat: he immediately put his arms round the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_90" id="Pg_90" title="Pg_90">[90]</a></span>mast, and, as we understood, no force except the command of
+the chief would have induced him to release his hold. Like
+the other men their bodies are blackened, but their distinguishing
+mark is a collection of two or three raven skins
+fixed to the girdle behind the back in such a way, that the
+tails stick out horizontally from the body. On his head too
+is a raven skin split into two parts, and tied so as to let the
+beak project from the forehead.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday September 27. We rose early, and the two
+chiefs took off, as a matter of course and according to their
+custom, the blanket on which they had slept. To this we
+added a peck of corn as a present to each. Captain Lewis
+and the chiefs went on shore to see a part of the nation
+that was expected, but did not come. He returned at two
+o'clock, with four of the chiefs and a warrior of distinction,
+called Wadrapa, (or on his guard); they examined
+the boat and admired whatever was strange, during half
+an hour, when they left it with great reluctance. Captain
+Clarke accompanied them to the lodge of the grand chief,
+who invited them to a dance, where, being joined by captain
+Lewis, they remained till a late hour. The dance was very
+similar to that of yesterday. About twelve we left them,
+taking the second chief and one principal warrior on board:
+as we came near the boat the man who steered the periogue,
+by mistake, brought her broadside against the boat's
+cable, and broke it. We called up all hands to their oars;
+but our noise alarmed the two Indians: they called out to
+their companions, and immediately the whole camp crowded
+to the shore; but after half an hour they returned, leaving
+about sixty men near us. The alarm given by the chiefs
+was said to be that the Mahas had attacked us, and that
+they were desirous of assisting us to repel it; but we suspected
+that they were afraid we meant to set sail, and intended
+to prevent us from doing so; for in the night the
+Maha prisoners had told one of our men, who understood
+the language, that we were to be stopped. We therefore,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_91" id="Pg_91" title="Pg_91">[91]</a></span>without giving any indication of our suspicion, prepared
+every thing for an attack, as the loss of our anchor obliged
+to come to near a falling bank, very unfavourable for defence.
+We were not mistaken in these opinions; for when in
+the morning,</p>
+
+<p>Friday, September 28, after dragging unsuccessfully
+for the anchor, we wished to set sail, it was with great difficulty
+that we could make the chiefs leave the boat. At
+length we got rid of all except the great chief; when just
+as we were setting out, several of the chief's soldiers sat on
+the rope which held the boat to the shore. Irritated at this
+we got every thing ready to fire on them if they persisted,
+but the great chief said that these were his soldiers and
+only wanted some tobacco. We had already refused a flag
+and some tobacco to the second chief, who had demanded it
+with great importunity; but willing to leave them without
+going to extremities, we threw him a carrot of tobacco,
+saying to him, "You have told us that you were a great
+man, and have influence; now show your influence, by taking
+the rope from those men, and we will then go without
+any further trouble." This appeal to his pride had the desired
+effect; he went out of the boat, gave the soldiers the
+tobacco, and pulling the rope out of their hands delivered
+it on board, and we then set sail under a breeze from the
+S.E. After sailing about two miles we observed the
+third chief beckoning to us: we took him on board, and he
+informed us that the rope had been held by the order of the
+second chief, who was a double-faced man. A little farther
+on we were joined by the son of the chief, who came on
+board to see his father. On his return we sent a speech to
+the nation, explaining what we had done, and advising them
+to peace; but if they persisted in their attempts to stop us, we
+were willing and able to defend ourselves. After making
+six miles, during which we passed a willow island on the
+south and one sandbar, we encamped on another in the middle
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_92" id="Pg_92" title="Pg_92">[92]</a></span>of the river. The country on the south-side was a low
+prairie, that on the north highland.</p>
+
+<p>September 29. We set out early, but were again impeded
+by sandbars, which made the river shallow; the weather
+was however fair; the land on the north side low and covered
+with timber contrasted with the bluffs to the south. At
+nine o'clock we saw the second chief and two women and
+three men on shore, who wished us to take two women offered
+by the second chief to make friends, which was refused;
+he then requested us to take them to the other band of
+their nation, who were on the river not far from us: this
+we declined; but in spite of our wishes they followed us
+along shore. The chief asked us to give them some tobacco;
+this we did, and gave more as a present for that part of
+the nation which we did not see. At seven and a half miles
+we came to a small creek on the southern side, where we
+saw great numbers of elk, and which we called Notimber
+creek from its bare appearance. Above the mouth of this
+stream, a Ricara band of Pawnees had a village five years
+ago: but there are no remains of it except the mound which
+encircled the town. Here the second chief went on shore.
+We then proceeded, and at the distance of eleven miles encamped
+on the lower part of a willow island, in the middle of
+the river, being obliged to substitute large stones in the
+place of the anchor which we lost.</p>
+
+<p>September 30. The wind was this morning very high
+from the southeast, so that we were obliged to proceed under
+a double-reefed mainsail, through the rain. The country
+presented a large low prairie covered with timber on
+the north side; on the south, we first had high barren hills,
+but after some miles it became of the same character as that
+on the opposite side. We had not gone far when an Indian
+ran after us, and begged to be carried on board as far as the
+Ricaras, which we refused: soon after, we discovered on
+the hills at a distance, a great number of Indians, who came
+towards the river and encamped ahead of us. We stopped
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_93" id="Pg_93" title="Pg_93">[93]</a></span>at a sandbar, at about eleven miles, and after breakfasting
+proceeded on a short distance to their camp, which consisted
+of about four hundred souls. We anchored one hundred
+yards from the shore, and discovering that they were Tetons
+belonging to the band which we had just left: we told
+them that we took them by the hand, and would make each
+chief a present of tobacco; that we had been badly treated
+by some of their band, and that having waited for them two
+days below, we could not stop here, but referred them to
+Mr. Durion for our talk and an explanation of our views:
+they then apologized for what had past, assured us that
+they were friendly, and very desirous that we should land
+and eat with them: this we refused, but sent the periogue
+on shore with the tobacco, which was delivered to one of the
+soldiers of the chief, whom we had on board. Several of
+them now ran along the shore after us, but the chief threw
+them a twist of tobacco, and told them to go back and open
+their ears to our counsels; on which they immediately returned
+to their lodges. We then proceeded past a continuation
+of the low prairie on the north, where we had large
+quantities of grapes, and on the south saw a small creek and
+an island. Six miles above this, two Indians came to the
+bank, looked at us about half an hour, and then went without
+speaking over the hills to the southwest. After some
+time, the wind rose still higher, and the boat struck a log,
+turned, and was very near taking in water. The chief became
+so much terrified at the danger, that he hid himself
+in the boat, and as soon as we landed got his gun and told
+us that he wanted to return, that we would now see no more
+Tetons, and that we might proceed unmolested: we repeated
+the advice we had already given, presented him with a
+blanket, a knife, some tobacco, and after smoking with him
+he set out. We then continued to a sandbar on the north
+side, where we encamped, having come twenty and a half
+miles. In the course of the day we saw a number of sandbars
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_94" id="Pg_94" title="Pg_94">[94]</a></span>which impede the navigation. The only animal which
+we observed was the white gull, then in great abundance.</p>
+
+<p>October 1st, 1804. The weather was very cold and the
+wind high from the southeast during the night, and continued
+so this morning. At three miles distance, we had
+passed a large island in the middle of the river, opposite to
+the lower end of which the Ricaras once had a village on the
+south side of the river: there are, however, no remnants of
+it now, except a circular wall three or four feet in height,
+which encompassed the town. Two miles beyond this island
+is a river coming in from the southwest, about four hundred
+yards wide; the current gentle, and discharging not
+much water, and very little sand: it takes its rise in the
+second range of the Cote Noire or Black mountains, and its
+general course is nearly east; this river has been occasionally
+called Dog river, under a mistaken opinion that its French
+name was Chien, but its true appellation is Chayenne, and
+it derives this title from the Chayenne Indians: their history
+is the short and melancholy relation of the calamities
+of almost all the Indians. They were a numerous people
+and lived on the Chayenne, a branch of the Red river of
+Lake Winnipeg. The invasion of the Sioux drove them
+westward; in their progress they halted on the southern
+side of the Missouri below the Warreconne, where their
+ancient fortifications still exist; but the same impulse again
+drove them to the heads of the Chayenne, where they now
+rove, and occasionally visit the Ricaras. They are now
+reduced, but still number three hundred men.</p>
+
+<p>Although the river did not seem to throw out much
+sand, yet near and above its mouth we find a great many
+sandbars difficult to pass. On both sides of the Missouri,
+near the Chayenne, are rich thinly timbered lowlands,
+behind which are bare hills. As we proceeded,
+we found that the sandbars made the river so shallow, and
+the wind was so high, that we could scarcely find the channel,
+and at one place were forced to drag the boat over a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_95" id="Pg_95" title="Pg_95">[95]</a></span>sandbar, the Missouri being very wide and falling a little.
+At seven and a half miles we came to at a point, and remained
+three hours, during which time the wind abated:
+we then passed within four miles two creeks on the south,
+one of which we called Centinel creek, and the other
+Lookout creek. This part of the river has but little timber;
+the hills are not so high as we have hitherto seen,
+and the number of sandbars extends the river to more than
+a mile in breadth. We continued about four and a half
+miles further, to a sandbar in the middle of the river,
+where we spent the night, our progress being sixteen miles.
+On the opposite shore, we saw a house among the willows
+and a boy to whom we called, and brought him on board.
+He proved to be a young Frenchman in the employ of a Mr.
+Valle a trader, who is now here pursuing his commerce
+with the Sioux.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday, October 2. There had been a violent wind
+from S.E. during the night, which having moderated
+we set sail with Mr. Valle, who visited us this morning and
+accompanied us for two miles. He is one of three French
+traders who have halted here, expecting the Sioux who are
+coming down from the Ricaras, where they now are, for the
+purposes of traffic. Mr. Valle tells us that he passed the
+last winter three hundred leagues up the Chayenne under
+the Black mountains. That river he represents as very rapid,
+liable to sudden swells, the bed and shores formed of
+course gravel, and difficult of ascent even for canoes. One
+hundred leagues from its mouth it divides into two branches,
+one coming from the south, the other at forty leagues
+from the junction enters the Black mountains. The land
+which it waters from the Missouri to the Black mountains,
+resembles the country on the Missouri, except that the former
+has even less timber, and of that the greater proportion
+is cedar. The Chayennes reside chiefly on the heads
+of the river, and steal horses from the Spanish settlement,
+a plundering excursion which they perform in a month's
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_96" id="Pg_96" title="Pg_96">[96]</a></span>time. The Black mountains he observes are very high, covered
+with great quantities of pine, and in some parts the
+snow remains during the summer. There are also great
+quantities of goats, white bear, prairie cocks, and a species
+of animal which from his description must resemble a small
+elk, with large circular horns.</p>
+
+<p>At two and a half miles we had passed a willow island
+on the south, on the north side of the river were dark bluffs,
+and on the south low rich prairies. We took a meridian altitude
+on our arrival at the upper end of the isthmus of the
+bend, which we called the Lookout bend, and found the latitude
+to be 44&deg; 19' 36". This bend is nearly twenty miles
+round, and not more than two miles across.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we heard a shot fired, and not long after
+observed some Indians on a hill: one of them came to the
+shore and wished us to land, as there were twenty lodges
+of Yanktons or Boisbrule there; we declined doing so, telling
+him that we had already seen his chiefs, and that they
+might learn from Mr. Durion the nature of the talk we had
+delivered to them. At nine miles we came to the lower
+point of a long island on the north, the banks of the south
+side of the river being high, those of the north forming a low
+rich prairie. We coasted along this island, which we called
+Caution island, and after passing a small creek on the south
+encamped on a sandbar in the middle of the river, having
+made twelve miles. The wind changed to the northwest,
+and became very high and cold. The current of the river
+is less rapid, and the water though of the same colour contains
+less sediment than below the Chayenne, but its width
+continues the same. We were not able to hunt to-day; for as
+there are so many Indians in the neighbourhood, we were
+in constant expectation of being attacked, and were therefore
+forced to keep the party together and be on our guard.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday, October 3. The wind continued so high
+from the northwest, that we could not set out till after
+seven: we then proceeded till twelve o'clock, and landed on
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_97" id="Pg_97" title="Pg_97">[97]</a></span>a bar towards the south, where we examined the periogues,
+and the forecastle of the boat, and found that the mice had
+cut several bags of corn, and spoiled some of our clothes:
+about one o'clock an Indian came running to the shore with
+a turkey on his back: several others soon joined him, but we
+had no intercourse with them. We then went on for three
+miles, but the ascent soon became so obstructed by sandbars
+and shoal water, that after attempting in vain several channels,
+we determined to rest for the night under some high
+bluffs on the south, and send out to examine the best channel.
+We had made eight miles along high bluffs on each
+side. The birds we saw were the white gulls and the brant
+which were flying to the southward in large flocks.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday, 4th. On examination we found that there was
+no outlet practicable for us in this channel, and that we
+must retread our steps. We therefore returned three
+miles, and attempted another channel in which we were
+more fortunate. The Indians were in small numbers on the
+shore, and seemed willing had they been more numerous to
+molest us. They called to desire that we would land, and
+one of them gave three yells and fired a ball ahead of the
+boat: we however took no notice of it, but landed on the
+south to breakfast. One of these Indians swam across and
+begged for some powder, we gave him a piece of tobacco
+only. At eight and a half miles we had passed an island in
+the middle of the river, which we called Goodhope island.
+At one and a half mile we reached a creek on the south side
+about twelve yards wide, to which we gave the name of Teal
+creek. A little above this is an island on the north side of
+the current, about one and a half mile in length and three
+quarters of a mile in breadth. In the centre of this island
+is an old village of the Ricaras, called Lahoocat; it was surrounded
+by a circular wall, containing seventeen lodges.
+The Ricaras are known to have lived therein 1797, and the
+village seems to have been deserted about five years since;
+it does not contain much timber. We encamped on a sandbar
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_98" id="Pg_98" title="Pg_98">[98]</a></span>making out from the upper end of this island; our journey
+to-day being twelve miles.</p>
+
+<p>Friday, October 5. The weather was very cold: yesterday
+evening and this morning there was a white frost. We
+sailed along the highlands on the north side, passing a small
+creek on the south, between three and four miles. At
+seven o'clock we heard some yells and saw three Indians of
+the Teton band, who asked us to come on shore and begged
+for some tobacco, to all which we gave the same answer as
+hitherto. At eight miles we reached a small creek on the
+north. At fourteen we passed an island on the south, covered
+with wild rye, and at the head a large creek comes in from
+the south, which we named Whitebrant creek, from seeing
+several white brants among flocks of dark-coloured ones. At
+the distance of twenty miles we came to on a sandbar towards
+the north side of the river, with a willow island opposite;
+the hills or bluffs come to the banks of the river on
+both sides, but are not so high as they are below: the
+river itself however continues of the same width, and the
+sandbars are quite as numerous. The soil of the banks is
+dark coloured, and many of the bluffs have the appearance
+of being on fire. Our game this day was a deer, a prairie
+wolf, and some goats out of a flock that was swimming across
+the river.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, October 6. The morning was still cold, the
+wind being from the north. At eight miles we came to a
+willow island on the north, opposite a point of timber, where
+there are many large stones near the middle of the river,
+which seem to have been washed from the hills and high
+plains on both sides, or driven from a distance down the stream.
+At twelve miles we halted for dinner at a village which we
+suppose to have belonged to the Ricaras; it is situated in a
+low plain on the river, and consists of about eighty lodges,
+of an octagon form, neatly covered with earth, placed as close
+to each other as possible, and picketed round. The skin canoes,
+mats, buckets, and articles of furniture found in the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_99" id="Pg_99" title="Pg_99">[99]</a></span>lodges, induce us to suppose that it had been left in the spring.
+We found three different sorts of squashes growing in the
+village; we also killed an elk near it, and saw two wolves.
+On leaving the village the river became shallow, and after
+searching a long time for the main channel, which was concealed
+among sandbars, we at last dragged the boat over one
+of them rather than go back three miles for the deepest channel.
+At fourteen and a half miles we stopped for the night
+on a sandbar, opposite a creek on the north, called Otter
+creek, twenty-two yards in width, and containing more water
+than is common for creeks of that size. The sides of the
+river during the day are variegated with high bluffs and low
+timbered grounds on the banks: the river is very much obstructed
+by sandbars. We saw geese, swan, brants and ducks
+of different kinds on the sandbars, and on shore numbers of
+the prairie hen; the magpie too is very common, but the gulls
+and plover, which we saw in such numbers below, are now
+quite rare.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, October 7. There was frost again last evening,
+and this morning was cloudy and attended with rain. At
+two miles we came to the mouth of a river; called by the
+Ricaras, Sawawkawna, or Pork river; the party who examined
+it for about three miles up, say that its current is gentle,
+and that it does not seem to throw out much sand. Its
+sources are in the first range of the Black mountains, and
+though it has now only water of twenty yards width, yet when
+full it occupies ninety. Just below the mouth is another
+village or wintering camp of the Ricaras, composed of
+about sixty lodges, built in the same form as those passed
+yesterday, with willow and straw mats, baskets and buffaloe-skin
+canoes remaining entire in the camp. We proceeded
+under a gentle breeze from the southwest: at ten o'clock
+we saw two Indians on the north side, who told us they were
+a part of the lodge of Tartongawaka, or Buffaloe Medicine,
+the Teton chief whom we had seen on the twenty-fifth, that
+they were on the way to the Ricaras, and begged us for something
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_100" id="Pg_100" title="Pg_100">[100]</a></span>to eat, which we of course gave them. At seven and a
+half miles is a willow island on the north, and another on
+the same side five miles beyond it, in the middle of the river
+between highlands on both sides. At eighteen and a half
+miles is an island called Grouse island, on which are the walls
+of an old village; the island has no timber, but is covered
+with grass and wild rye, and owes its name to the number of
+grouse that frequent it. We then went on till our journey
+for the day was twenty-two miles: the country presented the
+same appearance as usual. In the low timbered ground near
+the mouth of the Sawawkawna, we saw the tracks of large
+white bear, and on Grouse island killed a female blaireau,
+and a deer of the black-tailed species, the largest we have
+ever seen.</p>
+
+<p>Monday, October 8. We proceeded early with a cool
+northwest wind, and at two and a half miles above Grouse
+island, reached the mouth of a creek on the south, then a
+small willow island, which divides the current equally; and
+at four and a half miles came to a river on the southern side
+where we halted. This river, which our meridian altitude
+fixes at 45&deg; 39' 5" north latitude, is called by the Ricaras
+Wetawhoo; it rises in the Black mountains, and its bed which
+flows at the mouth over a low soft slate stone, is one hundred
+and twenty yards wide, but the water is now confined within
+twenty yards, and is not very rapid, discharging mud with a
+small proportion of sand: here as in every bend of the river,
+we again observe the red berries resembling currants,
+which we mentioned before. Two miles above the Wetawhoo,
+and on the same side, is a small river called Maropa by the
+Indians; it is twenty yards in width, but so dammed up by
+mud that the stream creeps through a channel of not more
+than an inch in diameter, and discharges no sand. One
+mile further we reached an island close to the southern
+shore, from which it is separated by a deep channel of sixty
+yards. About half way a number of Ricara Indians came
+out to see us. We stopped and took a Frenchman on board,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_101" id="Pg_101" title="Pg_101">[101]</a></span>who accompanied us past the island to our camp on the
+north side of the river, which is at the distance of twelve
+miles from that of yesterday. Captain Lewis then returned
+with four of the party to see the village; it is situated in
+the centre of the island, near the southern shore, under
+the foot of some high, bald, uneven hills, and contains about
+sixty lodges. The island itself is three miles long, and covered
+with fields in which the Indians raise corn, beans,
+and potatoes. Several Frenchmen living among these Indians
+as interpreters, or traders, came back with captain
+Lewis, and particularly a Mr. Gravelines, a man who has
+acquired the language. On setting out we had a low prairie
+covered with timber on the north, and on the south
+highlands, but at the mouth of the Wetawhoo the southern
+country changes, and a low timbered plain extends along the
+south, while the north has a ridge of barren hills during the
+rest of the day's course.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday, 9th. The wind was so cold and high last
+night and during all the day, that we could not assemble the
+Indians in council; but some of the party went to the village.
+We received the visits of the three principal chiefs
+with many others, to whom we gave some tobacco, and told
+them that we would speak to them to-morrow. The names
+of these chiefs were first, Kakawissassa or Lighting Crow;
+second chief Pocasse or Hay; third chief Piaheto or Eagle's
+Feather. Notwithstanding the high waves, two or three
+squaws rowed to us in little canoes made of a single
+buffaloe skin, stretched over a frame of boughs interwoven
+like a basket, and with the most perfect composure.
+The object which appeared to astonish the Indians most,
+was captain Clark's servant York, a remarkable stout strong
+negro. They had never seen a being of that colour, and
+therefore flocked round him to examine the extraordinary
+monster. By way of amusement he told them that he
+had once been a wild animal, and caught and tamed by his
+master, and to convince them, showed them feats of strength
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_102" id="Pg_102" title="Pg_102">[102]</a></span>which added to his looks made him more terrible than we
+wished him to be. Opposite our camp is a small creek on
+the south, which we distinguished by the name of the chief
+Kakawissassa.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday, 10th. The weather was this day fine, and as
+we were desirous of assembling the whole nation at once, we
+despatched Mr. Gravelines, who with Mr. Tabeau another
+French trader had breakfeasted with us, to invite the chiefs
+of the two upper villages to a conference. They all assembled
+at one o'clock, and after the usual ceremonies we addressed
+them in the same way in which we had already spoken
+to the Ottoes and Sioux: we then made or acknowledged
+three chiefs, one for each of the three villages; giving to
+each a flag, a medal, a red coat, a cocked hat and feather,
+also some goods, paint and tobacco, which they divided
+among themselves: after this the airgun was exhibited, very
+much to their astonishment, nor were they less surprised
+at the colour and manner of York. On our side we were
+equally gratified at discovering that these Ricaras made use
+of no spirituous liquors of any kind, the example of the traders
+who bring it to them so far from tempting having in
+fact disgusted them. Supposing that it was as agreeable to
+them as to the other Indians, we had at first offered them
+whiskey; but they refused it with this sensible remark, that
+they were surprised that their father should present to them
+a liquor which would make them fools. On another occasion
+they observed to Mr. Tabeau, that no man could be
+their friend who tried to lead them into such follies. The
+council being over they retired to consult on their answer,
+and the next morning,</p>
+
+<p>Thursday, 11th, at eleven o'clock we again met in council
+at our camp. The grand chief made a short speech of
+thanks for the advice we had given, and promised to follow
+it; adding that the door was now open and no one dare shut
+it, and that we might depart whenever we pleased, alluding
+to the treatment we had received from the Sioux: they also
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_103" id="Pg_103" title="Pg_103">[103]</a></span>brought us some corn, beans, and dried squashes, and in return
+we gave them a steel mill with which they were much
+pleased. At one o'clock we left our camp with the grand
+chief and his nephew on board, and at about two miles anchored
+below a creek on the south, separating the second
+and third village of the Ricaras, which are about half a mile
+distant from each other. We visited both the villages, and
+sat conversing with the chiefs for some time, during which
+they presented us with a bread made of corn and beans, also
+corn and beans boiled, and a large rich bean which they
+take from the mice of the prairie, who discover and collect
+it. These two villages are placed near each other in a high
+smooth prairie; a fine situation, except that having no wood
+the inhabitants are obliged to go for it across the river to a
+timbered lowland opposite to them. We told them that we
+would speak to them in the morning at their villages separately.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday, 12th. Accordingly after breakfast we went
+on shore to the house of the chief of the second village
+named Lassel, where we found his chiefs and warriors. They
+made us a present of about seven bushels of corn, a pair of leggings,
+a twist of their tobacco, and the seeds of two different
+species of tobacco. The chief then delivered a speech expressive
+of his gratitude for the presents and the good counsels
+which we had given him; his intention of visiting his great
+father but for fear of the Sioux; and requested us to take
+one of the Ricara chiefs up to the Mandans and negociate
+a peace between the two nations. To this we replied in a
+suitable way, and then repaired to the third village. Here
+we were addressed by the chief in nearly the same terms as
+before, and entertained with a present of ten bushels of
+corn, some beans, dried pumpkins, and squashes. After we
+had answered and explained the magnitude and power of
+the United States, the three chiefs came with us to the boat.
+We gave them some sugar, a little salt, and a sunglass.
+Two of them then left us, and the chief of the third, by name
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_104" id="Pg_104" title="Pg_104">[104]</a></span>Ahketahnasha or Chief of the Town, accompanied us to the
+Mandans. At two o'clock we left the Indians, who crowded
+to the shore to take leave of us, and after making seven
+and a half miles landed on the north side, and had a clear,
+cool, pleasant evening.</p>
+
+<p>The three villages which we have just left, are the residence
+of a nation called the Ricaras. They were originally
+colonies of Pawnees, who established themselves on
+the Missouri, below the Chayenne, where the traders still
+remember that twenty years ago they occupied a number
+of villages. From that situation a part of the Ricaras emigrated
+to the neighbourhood of the Mandans, with whom they
+were then in alliance. The rest of the nation continued
+near the Chayenne till the year 1797, in the course of
+which, distressed by their wars with the Sioux, they joined
+their countrymen near the Mandans. Soon after a new war
+arose between the Ricaras and the Mandans, in consequence
+of which the former came down the river to their
+present position. In this migration those who had first
+gone to the Mandans kept together, and now live in the two
+lower villages, which may thence be considered as the Ricaras
+proper. The third village was composed of such remnants
+of the villages as had survived the wars, and as these
+were nine in number a difference of pronunciation and some
+difference of language may be observed between them and
+the Ricaras proper, who do not understand all the words of
+these wanderers. The villages are within the distance of
+four miles of each other, the two lower ones consisting of
+between one hundred and fifty and two hundred men each,
+the third of three hundred. The Ricaras are tall and well
+proportioned, the women handsome and lively, and as among
+other savages to them falls all the drudgery of the field and
+the labours of procuring subsistence, except that of hunting:
+both sexes are poor, but kind and generous, and although
+they receive with thankfulness what is given to them, do not
+beg as the Sioux did, though this praise should be qualified
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_105" id="Pg_105" title="Pg_105">[105]</a></span>by mentioning that an axe was stolen last night from our
+cooks. The dress of the men is a simple pair of moccasins,
+legings, and a cloth round the middle, over which a buffaloe
+robe is occasionally thrown, with their hair, arms and ears
+decorated with different ornaments. The women wear moccasins,
+legings, a long shirt made of goats' skins, generally
+white and fringed, which is tied round the waist; to those
+they add, like the men, a buffaloe robe without the hair, in
+summer. These women are handsomer than the Sioux;
+both of them are however, disposed to be amorous, and our
+men found no difficulty in procuring companions for the
+night by means of the interpreters. These interviews were
+chiefly clandestine, and were of course to be kept a secret
+from the husband or relations. The point of honour indeed,
+is completely reversed among the Ricaras; that the wife or
+the sister should submit to a stranger's embraces without
+the consent of her husband or brother, is a cause of great
+disgrace and offence, especially as for many purposes of
+civility or gratitude the husband and brother will themselves
+present to a stranger these females, and be gratified by
+attentions to them. The Sioux had offered us squaws, but
+while we remained there having declined, they followed us
+with offers of females for two days. The Ricaras had been
+equally accommodating; we had equally withstood their
+temptation; but such was their desire to oblige that two
+very handsome young squaws were sent on board this evening,
+and persecuted us with civilities. The black man York
+participated largely in these favours; for instead of inspiring
+any prejudice, his colour seemed to procure him additional
+advantages from the Indians, who desired to preserve
+among them some memorial of this wonderful stranger.
+Among other instances of attention, a Ricara invited him
+into his house and presenting his wife to him, retired to the
+outside of the door: while there one of York's comrades who
+was looking for him came to the door, but the gallant husband
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_106" id="Pg_106" title="Pg_106">[106]</a></span>would permit no interruption before a reasonable time
+had elapsed.</p>
+
+<p>The Ricara lodges are in a circular or octagonal form,
+and generally about thirty or forty feet in diameter: they
+are made by placing forked posts about six feet high round
+the circumference of the circle; these are joined by poles
+from one fork to another, which are supported also by other
+forked poles slanting from the ground: in the centre of the
+lodge are placed four higher forks, about fifteen feet in
+length, connected together by beams; from these to the lower
+poles the rafters of the roof are extended so as to leave a
+vacancy in the middle for the smoke: the frame of the
+building is then covered with willow branches, with which
+is interwoven grass, and over this mud or clay: the aperture
+for the door is about four feet wide, and before it is a
+sort of entry about ten feet from the lodge. They are very
+warm and compact.</p>
+
+<p>They cultivate maize or Indian corn, beans, pumpkins,
+watermelons, squashes, and a species of tobacco peculiar to
+themselves.</p>
+
+<p>Their commerce is chiefly with the traders who supply
+them with goods in return for peltries, which they procure
+not only by their own hunting, but in exchange for corn
+from their less civilized neighbours. The object chiefly in
+demand seemed to be red paint, but they would give any
+thing they had to spare for the most trifling article. One
+of the men to-day gave an Indian a hook made out of a pin,
+and he gave him in return a pair of moccasins.</p>
+
+<p>They express a disposition to keep at peace with all nations,
+but they are well armed with fusils, and being much
+under the influence of the Sioux, who exchanged the goods
+which they get from the British for Ricara corn, their
+minds are sometimes poisoned and they cannot be always
+depended on. At the present moment they are at war with
+the Mandans. We are informed by Mr. Gravelines, who had
+passed through that country, that the Yankton or Jacques
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_107" id="Pg_107" title="Pg_107">[107]</a></span>river rises about forty miles to the east or northeast of
+this place, the Chayenne branch of the Red river about
+twenty miles further, passing the Sioux, and the St. Peter's
+about eighty.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, 13th. In the morning our visitors left us, except
+the brother of the chief who accompanies us and one of
+the squaws. We passed at an early hour a camp of Sioux on the
+north bank, who merely looked at us without saying a word,
+and from the character of the tribe we did not solicit a conversation.
+At ten and a half miles we reached the mouth
+of a creek on the north, which takes its rise from some
+ponds a short distance to the northeast: to this stream we
+gave the name of Stoneidol creek, for after passing a willow
+and sand island just above its mouth, we discovered that a
+few miles back from the Missouri there are two stones resembling
+human figures, and a third like a dog; all which
+are objects of great veneration among the Ricaras. Their
+history would adorn the metamorphoses of Ovid. A young
+man was deeply enamoured with a girl whose parents refused
+their consent to the marriage. The youth went out into the
+fields to mourn his misfortunes; a sympathy of feeling led the
+lady to the same spot, and the faithful dog would not cease to
+follow his master. After wandering together and having nothing
+but grapes to subsist on, they were at last converted
+into stone, which beginning at the feet gradually invaded the
+nobler parts leaving nothing unchanged but a bunch of grapes
+which the female holds in her hands to this day. Whenever
+the Ricaras pass these sacred stones, they stop to make
+some offering of dress to propitiate these deities. Such is
+the account given by the Ricara chief which we had no mode
+of examining, except that we found one part of the story
+very agreeably confirmed; for on the river near where the
+event is said to have occurred, we found a greater abundance
+of fine grapes than we had yet seen. Above this is a
+small creek four and a half miles from Stoneidol creek,
+which is fifteen yards wide, comes in from the south, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_108" id="Pg_108" title="Pg_108">[108]</a></span>received from us the name of Pocasse or Hay creek, in honour
+of the chief of the second village. Above the Ricara
+island, the Missouri becomes narrow and deeper, the sandbars
+being generally confined to the points; the current too
+is much more gentle; the timber on the lowlands is also in
+much greater quantities, though the high grounds are still
+naked. We proceeded on under a fine breeze from the
+southeast, and after making eighteen miles encamped on
+the north near a timbered low plain, after which we had
+some rain and the evening was cold. The hunters killed
+one deer only.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, 14th. We set out in the rain which continued
+during the day. At five miles we came to a creek on the
+south, about fifteen yards wide, and named by us Piaheto or
+Eagle's Feather, in honour of the third chief of the Ricaras.
+After dinner we stopped on a sandbar, and executed
+the sentence of a court martial which inflicted corporal
+punishment on one of the soldiers. This operation affected
+the Indian chief very sensibly, for he cried aloud during the
+punishment: we explained the offence and the reasons of it.
+He acknowledged that examples were necessary, and that
+he himself had given them by punishing with death; but his
+nation never whipped even children from their birth. After
+this we continued with the wind from the northeast, and
+at the distance of twelve miles, encamped in a cove of the
+southern bank. Immediately opposite our camp on the
+north side are the ruins of an ancient fortification, the greater
+part of which is washed into the river: nor could we distinguish
+more than that the walls were eight or ten feet
+high. The evening is wet and disagreeable, and the river
+which is somewhat wider than yesterday, continues to have
+an unusual quantity of timber. The country was level on
+both sides in the morning, but afterwards we passed some
+black bluffs on the south.</p>
+
+<p>Monday, 15th. We stopped at three miles on the north
+a little above a camp of Ricaras who are hunting, where
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_109" id="Pg_109" title="Pg_109">[109]</a></span>we were visited by about thirty Indians. They came over
+in their skin canoes, bringing us meat, for which we returned
+them beads and fishhooks. About a mile higher we found
+another encampment of Ricaras on the south, consisting of
+eight lodges: here we again ate and exchanged a few presents.
+As we went we discerned numbers of other Indians
+on both sides of the river; and at about nine miles we came
+to a creek on the south, where we saw many high hills resembling
+a house with a slanting roof; and a little below the
+creek an old village of the Sharha or Chayenne Indians.
+The morning had been cloudy, but the evening became
+pleasant, the wind from the northeast, and at sunset we
+halted, after coming ten miles over several sandbars and
+points, above a camp of ten Ricara lodges on the north side.
+We visited their camp, and smoked and eat with several
+of them; they all appeared kind and pleased with our attentions,
+and the fair sex received our men with more than
+hospitality. York was here again an object of astonishment;
+the children would follow him constantly, and if he
+chanced to turn towards them, run with great terror. The
+country of to-day is generally low and covered with timber
+on both sides, though in the morning we passed some barren
+hills on the south.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday, 16th. At this camp the squaw who accompanied
+the chief left us; two others were very anxious to go on
+with us. Just above our camp we passed a circular work
+or fort where the Sharha or Chayennes formerly lived: and
+a short distance beyond, a creek which we called Chayenne
+creek. At two miles is a willow island with a large
+sandbar on both sides above it, and a creek, both on the
+south, which we called Sohaweh, the Ricara name for
+girl; and two miles above a second creek, to which we gave
+the name of Chapawt, which means woman in the same
+language. Three miles further is an island situated in a
+bend to the north, about a mile and a half long, and covered
+with cottonwood. At the lower end of this island
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_110" id="Pg_110" title="Pg_110">[110]</a></span>comes in a small creek from the north, called Keetooshsahawna
+or Place of Beaver. At the upper extremity of the
+island a river empties itself from the north: it is called
+Warreconne, or Elk Shed their Horns, and is about thirty-five
+yards wide: the island itself is named Carp island by
+Evans, a former traveller. As we proceeded there were
+great numbers of goats on the banks of the river, and we
+soon after saw large flocks of them in the water: they had
+been gradually driven into the river by the Indians who now
+lined the shore so as to prevent their escape, and were firing
+on them, while sometimes boys went into the river and killed
+them with sticks: they seemed to be very successful, for
+we counted fifty-eight which they had killed. We ourselves
+killed some, and then passing the lodges to which these Indians
+belonged, encamped at the distance of half a mile on
+the south, having made fourteen and a half miles. We
+were soon visited by numbers of these Ricaras, who crossed
+the river hallooing and singing: two of them then returned
+for some goats' flesh and buffaloe meat dried and
+fresh, with which they made a feast that lasted till late at
+night, and caused much music and merriment.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 17th. The weather was pleasant: we passed a
+low ground covered with small timber on the south, and barren
+hills on the north which come close to the river; the
+wind from the northwest then become so strong that we
+could not move after ten o'clock, until late in the afternoon,
+when we were forced to use the towline, and we therefore
+made only six miles. We all went out hunting and examining
+the country. The goats, of which we see large flocks coming
+to the north bank of the river, spend the summer, says Mr.
+Gravelines, in the plains east of the Missouri, and at the present
+season are returning to the Black mountains, where they
+subsist on leaves and shrubbery during the winter, and resume
+their migrations in the spring. We also saw buffaloe, elk, and
+deer, and a number of snakes; a beaver house too was seen,
+and we caught a whippoorwill of a small and uncommon
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_111" id="Pg_111" title="Pg_111">[111]</a></span>kind: the leaves are fast falling; the river wider than usual
+and full of sandbars: and on the sides of the hills are large
+stones, and some rock of a brownish colour in the southern
+bend below us. Our latitude by observation was 46&deg; 23' 57".</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 18. After three miles we reached the mouth of
+Le Boulet or Cannonball river: this stream rises in the Black
+mountains, and falls into the Missouri on the south; its channel
+is about one hundred and forty yards wide, though the
+water is now confined within forty, and its name is derived
+from the numbers of perfectly round large stones on the
+shore and in the bluffs just above. We here met with two
+Frenchmen in the employ of Mr. Gravelines, who had been
+robbed by the Mandans of their traps, furs, and other articles,
+and were descending the river in a periogue, but they turned
+back with us in expectation of obtaining redress through
+our means. At eight miles is a creek on the north, about
+twenty-eight yards wide, rising in the northeast, and called
+Chewah or Fish river; one mile above this is another creek
+on the south: we encamped on a sandbar to the south, at the
+distance of thirteen miles, all of which we had made with oars
+and poles. Great numbers of goats are crossing the river and
+directing their course to the westward; we also saw a herd
+of buffaloe and of elk; a pelican too was killed, and six fallow
+deer, having found, as the Ricaras informed us, that
+there are none of the black-tail species as high up as this
+place. The country is in general level and fine, with broken
+short high grounds, low timbered mounds on the river,
+and a rugged range of hills at a distance.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 19. We set sail with a fine morning, and a southeast
+wind, and at two and a half miles passed a creek on the
+north side: at eleven and a half miles we came to a lake or
+large pond on the same side, in which were some swans. On
+both banks of the Missouri are low grounds which have much
+more timber than lower down the river: the hills are at one
+or two miles distance from the banks, and the streams which
+rise in them are brackish, and the mineral salts appear on
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_112" id="Pg_112" title="Pg_112">[112]</a></span>the sides of the hills and edges of the runs. In walking along
+the shore we counted fifty-two herds of buffaloe, and three
+of elk, at a single view. Besides these we also observed elk,
+deer, pelicans, and wolves. After seventeen and a half miles
+we encamped on the north, opposite to the uppermost of a
+number of round hills, forming a cone at the top, one being
+about ninety, another sixty feet in height, and some of
+less elevation. Our chief tells us that the calumet bird
+lives in the holes formed by the filtration of the water
+from the top of these hills through the sides. Near to one
+of these moles, on a point of a hill ninety feet above the
+plain, are the remains of an old village which is high, strong,
+and has been fortified; this our chief tells us is the remains
+of one of the Mandan villages, and are the first ruins which
+we have seen of that nation in ascending the Missouri: opposite
+to our camp is a deep bend to the south, at the extremity
+of which is a pond.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 30. We proceeded early with a southeast wind,
+which continued high all day, and came to a creek on the north
+at two miles distance, twenty yards wide. At eight miles we
+reached the lower point of an island in the middle of the river,
+though there is no current on the south. This island is covered
+with willows and extends about two miles, there being
+a small creek coming in from the south at its lower extremity.
+After making twelve miles we encamped on the south,
+at the upper part of a bluff containing stone-coal of an inferior
+quality; immediately below this bluff and on the declivity
+of a hill, are the remains of a village covering six or
+eight acres, formerly occupied by the Mandans, who, says
+our Ricara chief, once lived in a number of villages on each
+side of the river, till the Sioux forced them forty miles
+higher; whence after a few years residence, they moved to
+their present position. The country through, which we passed
+has wider bottoms and more timber than those we have
+been accustomed to see, the hills rising at a distance and by
+gradual ascents. We have seen great numbers of elk, deer,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_113" id="Pg_113" title="Pg_113">[113]</a></span>goats, and buffaloe, and the usual attendants of these last,
+the wolves, who follow their movements and feed upon those
+who die by accident, or who are too poor to keep pace with
+the herd; we also wounded a white bear, and saw some fresh
+tracks of those animals which are twice as large as the track
+of a man.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 21. Last night the weather was cold, the wind
+high from the northeast, and the rain which fell froze on
+the ground. At daylight it began to snow, and continued
+till the afternoon, when it remained cloudy and the ground
+was covered with snow. We however, set out early, and
+just above our camp came to a creek on the south, called
+Chisshetaw, about thirty yards wide and with a considerable
+quantity of water. Our Ricara chief tells us, that at
+some distance up this river is situated a large rock which
+is held in great veneration, and visited by parties who go
+to consult it as to their own or their nations' destinies, all
+of which they discern in some sort of figures or paintings
+with which it is covered. About two miles off from the mouth
+of the river the party on shore saw another of the objects of
+Ricara superstition: it is a large oak tree, standing alone
+in the open prairie, and as it alone has withstood the fire
+which has consumed every thing around, the Indians naturally
+ascribe to it extraordinary powers. One of their ceremonies
+is to make a hole in the skin of their necks through
+which a string is passed and the other end tied to the body
+of the tree; and after remaining in this way for some time
+they think they become braver. At two miles a from our encampment
+we came to the ruins of a second Mandan village,
+which was in existence at the same time with that just
+mentioned. It is situated on the north at the foot of a hill in
+a beautiful and extensive plain, which is now covered with
+herds of buffaloe: nearly opposite are remains of a third village
+on the south of the Missouri; and there is another also about
+two miles further on the north, a little off the river. At the distance
+of seven miles we encamped on the south, and spent
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_114" id="Pg_114" title="Pg_114">[114]</a></span>a cold night. We procured to-day a buffaloe and an otter
+only. The river is wide and the sandbars numerous, and a
+low island near our encampment.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 22. In the morning we passed an old Mandan
+village on the south, near our camp; at four miles another
+on the same side. About seven o'clock we came to at a
+camp of eleven Sioux of the Teton tribe, who are almost
+perfectly naked, having only a piece of skin or cloth round
+the middle, though we are suffering from the cold. From
+their appearance, which is warlike, and from their giving
+two different accounts of themselves, we believe that they
+are either going to or returning from the Mandans, to
+which nations the Sioux frequently make excursions to steal
+horses. As their conduct displeased as, we gave them nothing.
+At six we reached an island about one mile in length,
+at the head of which is a Mandan village on the north in
+ruins, and two miles beyond a bad sandbar. At eight miles
+are remains of another Mandan village on the south; and at
+twelve miles encamped on the south. The hunters brought
+in a buffaloe bull, and mentioned that of about three hundred
+which they had seen, there was not a single female.
+The beaver is here in plenty, and the two Frenchmen who
+are returning with us catch several every night.</p>
+
+<p>These villages which are nine in number are scattered
+along each side of the river within a space of twenty miles;
+almost all that remains of them is the wall which surrounded
+them, the fallen heaps of earth which covered the houses,
+and occasionally human skulls and the teeth and bones of
+men, and different animals, which are scattered on the surface
+of the ground.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 23. The weather was cloudy and we had some
+snow; we soon arrived at five lodges where the two Frenchmen
+had been robbed, but the Indians had left it lately as
+we found the fires still burning. The country consists as
+usual of timbered low grounds, with grapes, rushes, and
+great quantities of a small red acid fruit, known among the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_115" id="Pg_115" title="Pg_115">[115]</a></span>Indians by a name signifying rabbitberries, and called by
+the French graisse de buffle or buffaloe fat. The river too,
+is obstructed by many sandbars. At twelve miles we passed
+an old village on the north, which was the former residence
+of the Ahnahaways who now live between the Mandans
+and Minnetarees. After making thirteen miles we encamped
+on the south.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 24. The day was again dark and it snowed
+a little in the morning. At three miles we came to a point
+on the south, where the river by forcing a channel across
+a former bend has formed a large island on the north. On
+this island we found one of the grand chiefs of the Mandans,
+who with five lodges was on a hunting excursion. He met
+his enemy the Ricara chief, with great ceremony and apparent
+cordiality, and smoked with him. After visiting his
+lodges, the grand chief and his brother came on board our
+boat for a short time; we then proceeded and encamped on
+the north, at seven miles from our last night's station and below
+the old village of the Mandans and Ricaras. Here four
+Mandans came down from a camp above, and our Ricara chief
+returned with them to their camp, from which we auger favourably
+of their pacific views towards each other. The
+land is low and beautiful, and covered with oak and cottonwood,
+but has been too recently hunted to afford much game.</p>
+
+<p>25th. The morning was cold and the wind gentle from
+the southeast: at three miles we passed a handsome high
+prairie on the south, and on an eminence about forty feet
+above the water and extending back for several miles in a
+beautiful plain, was situated an old village of the Mandan
+nation which has been deserted for many years. A short
+distance above it, on the continuation of the same rising
+ground are two old villages of Ricaras, one on the top of the
+hill, the other in the level plain, which have been deserted
+only five years ago. Above these villages is an extensive
+low ground for several miles, in which are situated, at
+three or four miles from the Ricara villages, three old villages
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_116" id="Pg_116" title="Pg_116">[116]</a></span>of Mandans near together. Here the Mandans lived
+when the Ricaras came to them for protection, and from
+this they moved to their present situation above. In the
+low ground the squaws raised their corn, and the timber, of
+which there was little near the villages, was supplied
+from the opposite side of the river, where it was and still is
+abundant.</p>
+
+<p>As we proceeded several parties of Mandans both on
+foot and horseback came along the river to view us, and
+were very desirous that we should land and talk to them:
+this we could not do on account of the sandbreaks on the
+shore, but we sent our Ricara chief to them in a periogue.
+The wind too having shifted to the southwest and being very
+high it required all our precautions on board, for the river
+was full of sandbars which made it very difficult to find the
+channel. We got aground several times, and passed a very
+bad point of rocks, after which we encamped on a sandpoint
+to the north, above a handsome plain covered with timber,
+and opposite to a high hill on the south side at the distance
+of eleven miles. Here we were joined by our Ricara chief,
+who brought an Indian to the camp where he remained all
+night.</p>
+
+<p>26th. We set out early with a southwest wind, and after
+putting the Ricara chief on shore to join the Mandans who
+were in great numbers along it, we proceeded to the camp
+of the grand chiefs four miles distant. Here we met a Mr.
+M&lsquo;Cracken one of the northwest or Hudson Bay company,
+who arrived with another person about nine days ago to trade
+for horses and buffaloe robes. Two of the chiefs came on
+board with some of their household furniture, such as
+earthern pots and a little corn and went on with us; the rest
+of the Indians following on shore. At one mile beyond the
+camp we passed a small creek, and at three more a bluff of
+coal of an inferior quality on the south. After making eleven
+miles we reached an old field where the Mandans had cultivated
+grain last summer, and encamped for the night on the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_117" id="Pg_117" title="Pg_117">[117]</a></span>south side, about half a mile below the first village of the
+Mandans. In the morning we had a willow low ground on
+the south and highland on the north, which occasionally
+varied in the course of the day. There is but little wood
+on this part of the river, which is here subdivided into many
+channels and obstructed by sandbars. As soon as we arrived
+a crowd of men, women, and children came down to see us.
+Captain Lewis returned with the principal chiefs to the village,
+while the others remained with us during the evening;
+the object which seemed to surprise them most, was a cornmill
+fixed to the boat which we had occasion to use, and delighted
+them by the ease with which it reduced the grain
+to powder. Among others who visited us was the son of
+the grand chief of the Mandans, who had his two little
+fingers cut off at the second joints. On inquiring into this
+accident, we found that it was customary to express grief
+for the death of relations by some corporeal suffering, and
+that the usual mode was to lose two joints of the little fingers,
+or sometimes the other fingers. The wind blew very
+cold in the evening from the southwest. Two of the party
+are affected with rheumatic complaints.</p>
+
+
+<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p>
+
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_118" id="Pg_118" title="Pg_118">[118]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<!-- ROUTE MAP -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173"
+        alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Council held with the Mandans&mdash;A prairie on fire, and a singular instance of
+preservation&mdash;Peace established between the Mandans and Ricaras&mdash;The party
+encamp for the winter&mdash;Indian mode of catching goats&mdash;Beautiful appearance
+of northern lights&mdash;Friendly character of the Indians&mdash;Some account of
+the Mandans&mdash;The Ahnahaways and the Minnetarees&mdash;The party acquire
+the confidence of the Mandans by taking part in their controversy with the
+Sioux&mdash;Religion of the Mandans, and their singular conception of the term
+medicine&mdash;Their tradition&mdash;The sufferings of the party from the severity
+of the season&mdash;Indian game of billiards described&mdash;Character of the Missouri,
+of the surrounding country, and of the rivers, creeks, islands, &amp;c.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>Saturday, October 27. At an early hour we proceeded
+and anchored off the village. Captain Clarke went on shore,
+and after smoking a pipe with the chiefs, was desired to remain
+and eat with them. He declined on account of his
+being unwell; but his refusal gave great offence to the Indians,
+who considered it disrespectful not to eat when invited,
+till the cause was explained to their satisfaction. We sent
+them some tobacco, and then proceeded to the second village
+on the north, passing by a bank containing coal, and a
+second village, and encamped at four miles on the north,
+opposite to a village of Ahnahaways. We here met with a
+Frenchman, named Jesseaume, who lives among the Indians
+with his wife and children, and who we take as an interpreter.
+The Indians had flocked to the bank to see us as we passed,
+and they visited in great numbers the camp, where some of
+them remained all night. We sent in the evening three
+young Indians with a present of tobacco for the chiefs of the
+three upper villages, inviting them to come down in the
+morning to a council with us. Accordingly the next day,</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, October 28, we were joined by many of the
+Minnetarees and Ahnahaways from above, but the wind was
+so violent from the southwest that the chiefs of the lower
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_119" id="Pg_119" title="Pg_119">[119]</a></span>villages could not come up, and the council was deferred
+till to-morrow. In the mean while we entertained our visitors
+by showing them what was new to them in the boat; all
+which, as well our black servant, they called Great Medicine,
+the meaning of which we afterwards learnt. We also
+consulted the grand chief of the Mandans, Black Cat, and
+Mr. Jesseaume, as to the names, characters, &amp;c. of the
+chiefs with whom we are to hold the council. In the course
+of the day we received several presents from the women,
+consisting of corn, boiled hominy, and garden stuffs: in our
+turn we gratified the wife of the great chief with a gift of
+a glazed earthen jar. Our hunter brought us two beaver.
+In the afternoon we sent the Minnetaree chiefs to smoke
+for us with the great chief of the Mandans, and told them
+we would speak in the morning.</p>
+
+<p>Finding that we shall be obliged to pass the winter at
+this place, we went up the river about one and a half miles
+to-day, with a view of finding a convenient spot for a fort,
+but the timber was too scarce and small for our purposes.</p>
+
+<p>Monday, October 29. The morning was fine and we prepared
+our presents and speech for the council. After breakfast
+we were visited by an old chief of the Ahnahaways, who
+finding himself growing old and weak had transferred his
+power to his son, who is now at war against the Shoshonees.
+At ten o'clock the chiefs were all assembled under an
+awning of our sails, stretched so as to exclude the wind
+which had become high; that the impression might be the
+more forcible, the men were all paraded, and the council
+opened by a discharge from the swivel of the boat. We then
+delivered a speech, which like those we had already made
+intermingled advice with assurances of friendship and trade:
+while we were speaking the old Ahnahaway chief grew very
+restless, and observed that he could not wait long as his
+camp was exposed to the hostilities of the Shoshonees; he
+was instantly rebuked with great dignity by one of the chiefs
+for this violation of decorum at such a moment, and remained
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_120" id="Pg_120" title="Pg_120">[120]</a></span>quiet during the rest of the council. Towards the end
+of our speech we introduced the subject of our Ricara chief,
+with whom we recommended a firm peace: to this they seemed
+well disposed, and all smoked with him very amicably.
+We all mentioned the goods which had been taken from the
+Frenchmen, and expressed a wish that they should he restored.
+This being over, we proceeded to distribute the
+presents with great ceremony: one chief of each town was
+acknowledged by a gift of a flag, a medal with the likeness
+of the president of the United States, a uniform coat, hat
+and feather: to the second chiefs we gave a medal representing
+some domestic animals, and a loom for weaving; to the
+third chiefs medals with the impressions of a farmer sowing
+grain. A variety of other presents were distributed, but
+none seemed to give them more satisfaction than an iron corn
+mill which we gave to the Mandans.</p>
+
+<p>The chiefs who were made to-day are: Shahaka or Big
+White, a first chief, and Kagohami or Little Raven, a second
+chief of the lower village of the Mandans, called Matootonha:
+the other chiefs of an inferior quality who were
+recommended were, 1. Ohheenaw, or Big Man, a Chayenne
+taken prisoner by the Mandans who adopted him,
+and he now enjoys great consideration among the tribe.
+2. Shotahawrora, or Coal, of the second Mandan village
+which is called Rooptahee. We made Poscopsahe, or Black
+Cat, the first chief of the village, and the grand chief of the
+whole Mandan nation: his second chief is Kagonomokshe,
+or Raven man Chief; inferior chiefs of this village were,
+Tawnuheo, and Bellahsara, of which we did not learn the
+translation.</p>
+
+<p>In the third village which is called Mahawha, and where
+the Arwacahwas reside, we made one first chief, Tetuckopinreha,
+or White Buffaloe robe unfolded, and recognized two
+of an inferior order: Minnissurraree, or Neighing Horse,
+and Locongotiha, or Old woman at a distance.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_121" id="Pg_121" title="Pg_121">[121]</a></span>Of the fourth village where the Minnetarees live, and
+which is called Metaharta, we made a first chief, Ompsehara,
+or Black Moccasin: a second chief, Ohhaw, or Little
+Fox. Other distinguished chiefs of this village were, Mahnotah,
+or Big Thief, a man whom we did not see as he is out
+fighting, and was killed soon after; and Mahserassa, or Tail
+of the Calumet Bird. In the fifth village we made a first
+chief Eapanopa, or Red Shield; a second chief Wankerassa,
+or Two Tailed Calumet Bird, both young chiefs; other
+persons of distinction are, Shahakohopinnee, or Little Wolf's
+Medicine; Ahrattanamoekshe, or Wolfman chief, who is now
+at war, and is the son of the old chief we have mentioned, whose
+name is Caltahcota, or Cherry on a Bush.</p>
+
+<p>The presents intended for the grand chief of the Minnetarees,
+who was not at the council, were sent to him by
+the old chief Caltahcota; and we delivered to a young chief
+those intended for the chief of the lower village. The council
+was concluded by a shot from our swivel, and after firing
+the airgun for their amusement, they retired to deliberate
+on the answer which they are to give to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening the prairie took fire, either by accident
+or design, and burned with great fury, the whole plain being
+enveloped in flames: so rapid was its progress that a man
+and a woman were burnt to death before they could reach a
+place of safety; another man with his wife and child were
+much burnt, and several other persons narrowly escaped
+destruction. Among the rest a boy of the half white breed
+escaped unhurt in the midst of the flames; his safety was
+ascribed to the great medicine spirit, who had preserved him
+on account of his being white. But a much more natural
+cause was the presence of mind of his mother, who seeing no
+hopes of carrying off her son, threw him on the ground, and
+covering him with the fresh hide of a buffaloe, escaped herself
+from the flames; as soon as the fire had passed, she returned
+and found him untouched, the skin having prevented, the
+flame from reaching the grass on which he lay.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_122" id="Pg_122" title="Pg_122">[122]</a></span>Tuesday 30. We were this morning visited by two persons
+from the lower village, one the Big White the chief of
+the village, the other the Chayenne called the Big Man;
+they had been hunting, and did not return yesterday early
+enough to attend the council. At their request we repeated
+part of our speech of yesterday, and put the medal round
+the neck of the chief. Captain Clarke took a periogue and
+went up the river in search of a good wintering place, and
+returned after going seven miles to the lower point of an
+island on the north side, about one mile in length; he found
+the banks on the north side high, with coal occasionally, and
+the country fine on all sides; but the want of wood and the
+scarcity of game up the river, induced us to decide on fixing
+ourselves lower down during the winter. In the evening
+our men danced among themselves to the great amusement
+of the Indians.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 31. A second chief arrived this morning with
+an invitation from the grand chief of the Mandans, to come
+to his village where he wished to present some corn to us
+and to speak with us. Captain Clarke walked down to his
+village; he was first seated with great ceremony on a robe
+by the side of the chief, who then threw over his shoulders
+another robe handsomely ornamented. The pipe was then
+smoked with several of the old men who were seated around
+the chief; after some time he began his discourse, by observing
+that he believed what we had told him, and that they should
+soon enjoy peace, which would gratify him as well as his
+people, because they could then hunt without fear of being
+attacked, and the women might work in the fields without
+looking every moment for the enemy, and at night put off
+their moccasins, a phrase by which is conveyed the idea of
+security when the women could undress at night without
+fear of attack. As to the Ricaras, he continued, in order to
+show you that we wish peace with all men, that chief, pointing
+to his second chief, will go with some warriors back to
+the Ricaras with their chief now here and smoke with that
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_123" id="Pg_123" title="Pg_123">[123]</a></span>nation. When we heard of your coming all the nations
+around returned from their hunting to see you, in hopes of
+receiving large presents; all are disappointed and some discontented;
+for his part he was not much so, though his village
+was. He added that he would go and see his great father
+the president. Two of the steel traps stolen from the
+Frenchmen were then laid before captain Clarke, and the
+women brought about twelve bushels of corn. After the chief
+had finished, captain Clarke made an answer to the speech
+and then returned to the boat, where he found the chief of
+the third village and Kagohami (the Little Raven) who
+smoked and talked about an hour. After they left the boat
+the grand chief of the Mandans came dressed in the clothes
+we had given him, with his two children, and begged to see
+the men dance, in which they willingly gratified him.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday, November 1st. Mr. M&lsquo;Cracken, the trader
+whom we found here, set out to-day on his return to the
+British fort and factory on the Assiniboin river, about one
+hundred and fifty miles from this place. He took a letter
+from captain Lewis to the northwest company, inclosing a
+copy of the passport granted by the British minister in the
+United States. At ten o'clock the chiefs of the lower village
+arrived; they requested that we would call at their village
+for some corn, that they were willing to make peace
+with the Ricaras, that they had never provoked the war between
+them, but as the Ricaras had killed some of their
+chiefs, they had retaliated on them; that they had killed
+them like birds, till they were tired of killing them, so that
+they would send a chief and some warriors to smoke with
+them. In the evening we dropped down to the lower village
+where captain Lewis went on shore, and captain Clarke
+proceeded to a point of wood on the north side.</p>
+
+<p>Friday, November 2. He therefore went up to the village
+where eleven bushels of corn were presented to him.
+In the meantime Captain Clarke went down with the boats
+three miles, and having found a good position where there
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_124" id="Pg_124" title="Pg_124">[124]</a></span>was plenty of timber, encamped and began to fell trees to
+build our huts. Our Ricara chief set out with one Mandan
+chief and several Minnetaree and Mandan warriors; the wind
+was from the southeast, and the weather being fine a crowd
+of Indians came down to visit us.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 3. We now began the building of our cabins,
+and the Frenchmen who are to return to St. Louis are building
+a periogue for the purpose. We sent six men in a periogue
+to hunt down the river. We were also fortunate enough to
+engage in our service a Canadian Frenchmen, who had been
+with the Chayenne Indians on the Black mountains, and
+last summer descended thence by the Little Missouri. Mr.
+Jessaume our interpreter also came down with his squaw and
+children to live at our camp. In the evening we received a
+visit from Kagohami or Little Raven, whose wife accompanied
+him, bringing about sixty weight of dried meat, a robe
+and a pot of meal. We gave him in return a piece of tobacco,
+to his wife an axe and a few small articles, and both of
+them spent the night at our camp. Two beavers were caught
+in traps this morning.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 4. We continued our labours: the timber which
+we employ is large and heavy, and chiefly consists of cottonwood
+and elm with some ash of an inferior size. Great numbers
+of the Indians pass our camp on their hunting excursions:
+the day was clear and pleasant, but last night was very
+cold and there was a white frost.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 5. The Indians are all out on their hunting parties:
+a camp of Mandans caught within two days one hundred
+goats a short distance below us: their mode of hunting
+them is to form a large strong pen or fold, from which a
+fence made of bushes gradually widens on each side: the animals
+are surrounded by the hunters and gently driven towards
+this pen, in which they imperceptibly find themselves
+inclosed and are then at the mercy of the hunters. The
+weather is cloudy and the wind moderate from the northwest.
+Late at night we were awaked by the sergeant on
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_125" id="Pg_125" title="Pg_125">[125]</a></span>guard to see the beautiful phenomenon called the northern
+light: along the northern sky was a large space occupied
+by a light of a pale but brilliant white colour: which rising
+from the horizon extended itself to nearly twenty degrees
+above it. After glittering for some time its colours
+would be overcast, and almost obscured, but again it would
+burst out with renewed beauty; the uniform colour was pale
+light, but its shapes were various and fantastic: at times
+the sky was lined with light coloured streaks rising perpendicularly
+from the horizon, and gradually expanding into a
+body of light in which we could trace the floating columns
+sometimes advancing, sometimes retreating and shaping
+into infinite forms, the space in which they moved. It all
+faded away before the morning. At daylight,</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 6, the clouds to the north were darkening and
+the wind rose high from the northwest at eight o'clock, and
+continued cold during the day. Mr. Gravelines and four
+others who came with us returned to the Ricaras in a small
+periogue, we gave him directions to accompany some of the
+Ricara chiefs to the seat of government in the spring.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 7. The day was temperate but cloudy and
+foggy, and we were enabled to go on with our work with
+much expedition.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 8. The morning again cloudy; our huts advance
+very well, and we are visited by numbers of Indians
+who come to let their horses graze near us: in the day the
+horses are let loose in quest of grass, in the night they are
+collected and receive an armful of small boughs of the
+cottonwood, which being very juicy, soft and brittle, form
+nutritious and agreeable food: the frost this morning was
+very severe, the weather during the day cloudy and the wind
+from the northwest. We procured from an Indian a weasel
+perfectly white except the extremity of the tail which was
+black: great numbers of wild geese are passing to the south,
+but their flight is too high for us to procure any of them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_126" id="Pg_126" title="Pg_126">[126]</a></span>November 10. We had again a raw day, a northwest
+wind, but rose early in hopes of finishing our works before
+the extreme cold begins. A chief who is a half Pawnee
+came to us and brought a present of half a buffaloe, in return
+for which we gave him some small presents and a few
+articles to his wife and son: he then crossed the river in
+a buffaloe skin canoe; his wife took the boat on her back and
+carried it to the village three miles off. Large flocks of geese
+and brant, and also a few ducks are passing towards the south.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 11. The weather is cold. We received the visit
+of two squaws, prisoners from the Rock mountains, and purchased
+by Chaboneau. The Mandans at this time are out
+hunting the buffaloe.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 12. The last night had been cold and this morning
+we had a very hard frost: the wind changeable during
+the day, and some ice appears on the edges of the rivers;
+swans too are passing to the south. The Big White came down
+to us, having packed on the back of his squaw about one
+hundred pounds of very fine meat: for which we gave him
+as well as the squaw some presents, particularly an axe to
+the woman with which she was very much pleased.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 13. We this morning unloaded the boat and
+stowed away the contents in a storehouse which we have
+built. At half past ten ice began to float down the river for
+the first time: in the course of the morning we were visited
+by the Black Cat, Poscapsahe, who brought an Assiniboin
+chief and seven warriors to see us. This man, whose name
+is Chechawk, is a chief of one out of three bands of Assiniboins
+who wander over the plains between the Missouri and
+Assiniboin during the summer, and in the winter carry the
+spoils of their hunting to the traders on the Assiniboin
+river, and occasionally come to this place: the whole three
+bands consist of about eight hundred men. We gave him a
+twist of tobacco to smoke with his people, and a gold cord
+for himself: the Sioux also asked for whiskey which we refused
+to give them. It snowed all day and the air was very cold.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_127" id="Pg_127" title="Pg_127">[127]</a></span>Wednesday 14. The river rose last night half an inch,
+and is now filled with floating ice. This morning was cloudy
+with some snow: about seventy lodges of Assiniboins and
+some Knistenaux are at the Mandan village, and this being
+the day of adoption and exchange of property between them
+all, it is accompanied by a dance, which prevents our seeing
+more than two Indians to-day: these Knistenaux are a band
+of Chippeways whose language they speak; they live on the
+Assiniboin and Saskashawan rivers, and are about two hundred
+and forty men. We sent a man down on horseback to
+see what had become of our hunters, and as we apprehend
+a failure of provisions we have recourse to our pork this
+evening. Two Frenchmen who had been below returned with
+twenty beaver which they had caught in traps.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 15. The morning again cloudy, and the ice
+running thicker than yesterday, the wind variable. The
+man came back with information that our hunters were
+about thirty miles below, and we immediately sent an order
+to them to make their way through the floating ice, to assist
+them in which we sent some tin for the bow of the periogue
+and a towrope. The ceremony of yesterday
+seem to continue still, for we were not visited by a single
+Indian. The swan are still passing to the south.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 16. We had a very hard white frost this morning,
+the trees are all covered with ice, and the weather cloudy.
+The men this day moved into the huts, although they
+are not finished. In the evening some horses were sent down
+to the woods near us in order to prevent their being stolen by
+the Assiniboins, with whom some difficulty is now apprehended.
+An Indian came down with four buffaloe robes
+and some corn, which he offered for a pistol, but was refused.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, November 17. Last night was very cold, and
+the ice in the river to-day is thicker than hitherto. We are
+totally occupied with our huts, but received visits from several
+Indians.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_128" id="Pg_128" title="Pg_128">[128]</a></span>Sunday, November 18. To-day we had a cold windy morning;
+the Black Cat came to see us, and occupied us for a long
+time with questions on the usages of our country. He mentioned
+that a council had been held yesterday to deliberate on the
+state of their affairs. It seems that not long ago, a party of
+Sioux fell in with some horses belonging to the Minnetarees,
+and carried them off; but in their flight they were met by
+some Assiniboins, who killed the Sioux and kept the horses:
+a Frenchman too who had lived many years among the
+Mandans, was lately killed on his route to the British factory
+on the Assiniboin; some smaller differences existed between
+the two nations, all of which being discussed, the council decided
+that they would not resent the recent insults from the
+Assiniboins and Knistenaux, until they had seen whether
+we had deceived them or not in our promises of furnishing
+them with arms and ammunition. They had been disappointed
+in their hopes of receiving them from Mr. Evans and were
+afraid that we too, like him, might tell them what was not
+true. We advised them to continue at peace, that supplies
+of every kind would no doubt arrive for them, but that time
+was necessary to organize the trade. The fact is that the
+Assiniboins treat the Mandans as the Sioux do the Ricaras;
+by their vicinity to the British they get all the supplies,
+which they withhold or give at pleasure to the remoter
+Indians: the consequence is, that however badly treated,
+the Mandans and Ricaras are very slow to retaliate lest they
+<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'shold'.">should</ins> lose their trade altogether.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 19. The ice continues to float in the river, the
+wind high from the northwest, and the weather cold. Our
+hunters arrived from their excursion below, and bring a very
+fine supply of thirty-two deer, eleven elk, and five buffaloe,
+all of which was hung in a smokehouse.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 20. We this day moved into our huts which are
+now completed. This place which we call Fort Mandan, is
+situated in a point of low ground, on the north side of the
+Missouri, covered with tall and heavy cottonwood. The
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_129" id="Pg_129" title="Pg_129">[129]</a></span>works consist of two rows of huts or sheds, forming an
+angle where they joined each other; each row containing
+four rooms, of fourteen feet square and seven feet high,
+with plank <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'cieling'.">ceiling</ins>, and the roof slanting so as to form a loft
+above the rooms, the highest part of which is eighteen feet
+from the ground: the backs of the huts formed a wall of
+that height, and opposite the angle the place of the wall was
+supplied by picketing; in the area were two rooms for
+stores and provisions. The latitude by observation is 47&deg;
+21' 47", and the computed distance from the mouth of the
+Missouri sixteen hundred miles.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of the day several Indians came down to
+partake of our fresh meat; among the rest, three chiefs of
+the second Mandan village. They inform us that the Sioux
+on the Missouri above the Chayenne river, threaten to attack
+them this winter; that these Sioux are much irritated
+at the Ricaras for having made peace through our means
+with the Mandans, and have lately ill treated three Ricaras
+who carried the pipe of peace to them, by beating them
+and taking away their horses. We gave them assurances
+that we would protect them from all their enemies.</p>
+
+<p>November 21st. The weather was this day fine: the
+river clear of ice and rising a little: we are now settled in
+our new winter habitation, and shall wait with much anxiety
+the first return of spring to continue our journey.</p>
+
+<p>The villages near which we are established are five in
+number, and are the residence of three distinct nations: the
+Mandans, the Ahnahaways, and the Minnetarees. The history
+of the Mandans, as we received it from our interpreters
+and from the chiefs themselves, and as it is attested by
+existing monuments, illustrates more than that of any other
+nation the unsteady movements and the tottering fortunes
+of the American nations. Within the recollection of living
+witnesses, the Mandans were settled forty years ago in nine
+villages, the ruins of which we passed about eighty miles
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_130" id="Pg_130" title="Pg_130">[130]</a></span>below, and situated seven on the west and two on the
+east side of the Missouri. The two finding themselves
+wasting away before the small-pox and the Sioux, united
+into one village, and moved up the river opposite to the Ricaras.
+The same causes reduced the remaining seven to
+five villages, till at length they emigrated in a body to the
+Ricara nation, where they formed themselves into two villages,
+and joined those of their countrymen who had gone
+before them. In their new residence they were still insecure,
+and at length the three villages ascended the Missouri to
+their present position. The two who had emigrated together
+still settled in the two villages on the northwest side of the
+Missouri, while the single village took a position on the
+southeast side. In this situation they were found by those
+who visited them in 1796; since which the two villages have
+united into one. They are now in two villages, one on the
+southeast of the Missouri, the other on the opposite side,
+and at the distance of three miles across. The first, in
+an open plain, contains about forty or fifty lodges, built in
+the same way as those of the Ricaras: the second, the same
+number, and both may raise about three hundred and fifty
+men.</p>
+
+<p>On the same side of the river, and at the distance of four
+miles from the lower Mandan village, is another called Mahaha.
+It is situated in a high plain at the mouth of Knife
+river, and is the residence of the Ahnahaways. This nation,
+whose name indicates that they were "people whose
+village is on a hill," formerly resided on the Missouri, about
+thirty miles below where they now live. The Assiniboins
+and Sioux forced them to a spot five miles higher, where
+the greatest part of them were put to death, and the rest
+emigrated to their present situation, in order to obtain an
+assylum near the Minnetarees. They are called by the
+French, Soulier Noir or Shoe Indians; by the Mandans,
+Wattasoons, and their whole force is about fifty men.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_131" id="Pg_131" title="Pg_131">[131]</a></span>On the south side of the same Knife river, half a mile
+above the Mahaha and in the same open plain with it, is a
+village of Minnetarees surnamed Metaharta, who are about
+one hundred and fifty men in number. On the opposite side
+of Knife river, and one and a half mile above this village
+is a second of Minnetarees, who may be considered as the
+proper Minnetaree nation. It is situated in a beautiful low
+plain, and contains four hundred and fifty warriors. The
+accounts which we received of the Minnetarees were contradictory.
+The Mandans say that this people came out of the
+water to the east, and settled near them in their former
+establishment in nine villages; that they were very numerous,
+and fixed themselves in one village on the southern
+side of the Missouri. A quarrel about a buffaloe divided the
+nation, of which two bands went into the plains, and were
+known by the name of Crow and Paunch Indians, and the
+rest moved to their present establishment. The Minnetarees
+proper assert, on the contrary, that they grew where
+they now live, and will never emigrate from the spot; the
+great spirit having declared that if they moved they would
+all die. They also say that the Minnetarees Metaharta,
+that is Minnetarees of the Willows, whose language with
+very little variation is their own, came many years ago from
+the plains and settled near them, and perhaps the two traditions
+may be reconciled by the natural presumption that
+these Minnetarees were the tribe known to the Mandans
+below, and that they ascended the river for the purpose of
+rejoining the Minnetarees proper. These Minnetarees are
+part of the great nation called Fall Indians, who occupy
+the intermediate country between the Missouri and the
+Saskaskawan, and who are known by the name of Minnetarees
+of the Missouri, and Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie;
+that is, residing near or rather frequenting the establishment
+in the prairie on the Saskaskawan. These Minnetarees
+indeed, told us that they had relations on the Saskaskawan,
+whom they had never known till they met them in war,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_132" id="Pg_132" title="Pg_132">[132]</a></span>and having engaged in the night were astonished at discovering
+that they were fighting with men who spoke their
+own language. The name of Grosventres, or Bigbellies
+is given to these Minnetarees, as well as to all the Fall Indians.
+The inhabitants of these five villages, all of which
+are within the distance of six miles, live in harmony with
+each other. The Ahnahaways understand in part the language
+of the Minnetarees: the dialect of the Mandans differs
+widely from both; but their long residence together has
+insensibly blended their manners, and occasioned some approximation
+in language, particularly as to objects of daily
+occurrence and obvious to the senses.</p>
+
+<p>November 22. The morning was fine, and the day warm.
+We purchased from the Mandans a quantity of corn of a
+mixed colour, which they dug up in ears from holes made
+near the front of their lodges, in which it is buried during the
+winter: this morning the sentinel informed us that an Indian
+was about to kill his wife near the fort; we went down to the
+house of our interpreter where we found the parties, and
+after forbidding any violence, inquired into the cause of his
+intending to commit such as atrocity. It appeared that
+some days ago a quarrel had taken place between him and
+his wife, in consequence of which she had taken refuge in
+the house where the two squaws of our interpreter lived:
+by running away she forfeited her life, which might have
+been lawfully taken by the husband. About two days ago she
+had returned to the village, but the same evening came back
+to the fort much beaten and stabbed in three places, and the
+husband now came for the purpose of completing his revenge.
+He observed that he had lent her to one of our serjeants for
+a night, and that if he wanted her he would give her to him
+altogether: we gave him a few presents and tried to persuade
+him to take his wife home; the grand chief too happened to
+arrive at the same moment, and reproached him with his
+violence, till at length they went off together, but by no
+means in a state of much apparent love.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_133" id="Pg_133" title="Pg_133">[133]</a></span>November 23. Again we had a fair and warm day, with
+the wind from the southeast: the river is now at a stand having
+risen four inches in the whole.</p>
+
+<p>November 24. The wind continued from the same quarter
+and the weather was warm: we were occupied in finishing
+our huts and making a large rope of elk-skin to draw our
+boat on the bank.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, November 25. The weather is still fine, warm
+and pleasant, and the river falls one inch and a half. Captain
+Lewis went on an excursion to the villages accompanied
+by eight men. A Minnetaree chief, the first who has visited
+us, came down to the fort: his name was Waukerassa, but
+as both the interpreters had gone with captain Lewis we
+were obliged to confine our civilities to some presents with
+which he was much pleased: we now completed our huts,
+and fortunately too, for the next day,</p>
+
+<p>Monday, November 26, before daylight the wind shifted
+to the northwest, and blew very hard, with cloudy weather
+and a keen cold air, which confined us much and prevented
+us from working: the night continued very cold, and,</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 27, the weather cloudy, the wind continuing
+from the northwest and the river crowded with floating ice.
+Captain Lewis returned with two chiefs Mahnotah, an Ahnahaway,
+and Minnessurraree a Minnetaree, and a third warrior:
+they explained to us that the reason of their not having
+come to see us, was that the Mandans had told them that
+we meant to combine with the Sioux and cut them off in the
+course of the winter: a suspicion increased by the strength
+of the fort, and the circumstance of our interpreters having
+both removed there with their families: these reports we
+did not fail to disprove to their entire satisfaction, and amused
+them by every attention, particularly by the dancing of
+the men which diverted them highly. All the Indians whom
+captain Lewis had visited were very well disposed, and received
+him with great kindness, except a principal chief of
+one of the upper villages, named Mabpahpaparapassatoo or
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_134" id="Pg_134" title="Pg_134">[134]</a></span>Horned Weasel, who made use of the civilized indecorum of
+refusing to be seen, and when captain Lewis called he was
+told the chief was not at home. In the course of the day
+seven of the northwest company's traders arrived from the
+Assiniboin river, and one of their interpreters having undertaken
+to circulate among the Indians unfavourable reports,
+it become necessary to warn them of the consequences
+if they did not desist from such proceedings. The river fell
+two inches to-day and the weather became very cold.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 28. About eight o'clock last evening it began
+to snow and continued till daybreak, after which it ceased
+till seven o'clock, but then resumed and continued during
+the day, the weather being cold and the river full of floating
+ice: about eight o'clock Poscopsahe came down to visit
+us, with some warriors; we gave them presents and entertained
+them with all that might amuse their curiosity, and
+at parting we told them that we had heard of the British
+trader, Mr. Laroche, having attempted to distribute medals
+and flags among them, but that those emblems could not
+be received from any other than the American nation without
+incurring the displeasure of their great father the president.
+They left us much pleased with their treatment. The
+river fell one inch to-day.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 29. The wind is again from the northwest, the
+weather cold, and the snow which fell yesterday and this
+night is thirteen inches in depth. The river closed during
+the night at the village above, and fell two feet; but this afternoon
+it began to rise a little. Mr. Laroche, the principal
+of the seven traders, came with one of his men to see us; we
+told him that we should not permit him to give medals and
+flags to the Indians; he declared that he had no such intention,
+and we then suffered him to make use of one of our interpreters,
+on his stipulating not to touch any subject but
+that of his traffic with them. An unfortunate accident occurred
+to sergeant Pryor, who in taking down the boat's
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_135" id="Pg_135" title="Pg_135">[135]</a></span>mast dislocated his shoulder, nor was it till after four trials
+that we replaced it.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 30. About eight o'clock an Indian came to the opposite
+bank of the river, calling out that he had something
+important to communicate, and on sending for him, he told
+us that five Mandans had been met about eight leagues to the
+southwest by a party of Sioux, who had killed one of them,
+wounded two, and taken nine horses; that four of the Wattasoons
+were missing, and that the Mandans expected an attack.
+We thought this an excellent opportunity to discountenance
+the injurious reports against us, and to fix the wavering
+confidence of the nation. Captain Clarke therefore
+instantly crossed the river with twenty-three men strongly
+armed, and circling the town approached it from behind.
+His unexpected appearance surprised and alarmed the chiefs,
+who came out to meet him, and conducted him to the village.
+He then told them that having heard of the outrage just
+committed, he had come to assist his dutiful children; that
+if they would assemble their warriors and those of the nation,
+he would lead them against the Sioux and avenge the
+blood of their countrymen. After some minutes conversation,
+Oheenaw the Chayenne arose; "We now see," said he,
+"that what you have told us is true, since as soon as our enemies
+threaten to attack us you come to protect us and are ready
+to chastise those who have spilt our blood. We did indeed
+listen to your good talk, for when you told us that the other
+nations were inclined to peace with us, we went out carelessly
+in small parties, and some have been killed by the Sioux
+and Ricaras. But I knew that the Ricaras were liars, and
+I told their chief who accompanied you, that his whole nation
+were liars and bad men; that we had several times made
+a peace with them which they were the first to break; that
+whenever we pleased we might shoot them like buffaloe, but
+that we had no wish to kill them; that we would not suffer
+them to kill us, nor steal our horses; and that although we
+agreed to make peace with them, because our two fathers
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_136" id="Pg_136" title="Pg_136">[136]</a></span>desired it, yet we did not believe that they would be faithful
+long. Such, father, was my language to them in your
+presence, and you see that instead of listening to your good
+counsels they have spilt our blood. A few days ago two
+Ricaras came here and told us that two of their villages were
+making moccasins, that the Sioux were stirring them up
+against us, and that we ought to take care of our horses;
+yet these very Ricaras we sent home as soon as the news
+reached us to-day, lest our people should kill them in the
+first moment of grief for their murdered relatives. Four
+of the Wattasoons whom we expected back in sixteen days
+have been absent twenty-four, and we fear have fallen. But
+father the snow is now deep, the weather cold, and our horses
+cannot travel through the plains; the murderers have
+gone off: if you will conduct us in the spring, when the snow
+has disappeared, we will assemble all the surrounding warriors
+and follow you."</p>
+
+<p>Captain Clarke replied that we were always willing and
+able to defend them; that he was sorry that the snow prevented
+their marching to meet the Sioux, since he wished to
+show them that the warriors of their great father would
+chastise the enemies of his obedient children who opened
+their ears to his advice; that if some Ricaras had joined the
+Sioux, they should remember that there were bad men in
+every nation, and that they should not be offended at the
+Ricaras till they saw whether these ill-disposed men were
+countenanced by the whole tribe; that the Sioux possessed
+great influence over the Ricaras, whom they supplied with
+military stores, and sometimes led them astray, because they
+were afraid to oppose them: but that this should be the less offensive
+since the Mandans themselves were under the same apprehensions
+from the Assiniboins and Knistenaux, and that
+while they were thus dependant, both the Ricaras and Mandans
+ought to keep on terms with their powerful neighbours,
+whom they may afterwards set at defiance, when we shall supply
+them with arms, and take them under our protection.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_137" id="Pg_137" title="Pg_137">[137]</a></span>After two hours conversation captain Clarke left the
+village. The chief repeatedly thanked him for the fatherly
+protection he had given them, observing that the whole
+village had been weeping all night and day for the brave
+young man who had been slain, but now they would wipe
+their eyes and weep no more as they saw that their father
+would protect them. He then crossed the river on the ice
+and returned on the north side to the fort. The day as well
+as the evening was cold, and the river rose to its former
+height.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, December 1. The wind was from the northwest,
+and the whole party engaged in picketing the fort.
+About ten o'clock the half-brother of the man who had been
+killed, came to inform us that six Sharhas or Chayenne
+Indians had arrived, bringing a pipe of peace, and that their
+nation was three days march behind them. Three Pawnees
+had accompanied the Sharhas, and the Mandans being
+afraid of the Sharhas on account of their being at peace
+with the Sioux, wished to put both them and the three
+Pawnees to death; but the chiefs had forbidden it as it
+would be contrary to our wishes. We gave him a present
+of tobacco, and although from his connexion with the sufferer,
+he was more embittered against the Pawnees than
+any other Mandan, yet he seemed perfectly satisfied with
+our pacific counsels and advice. The Mandans, we observe,
+call all the Ricaras by the name of Pawnees; the name of
+Ricaras being that by which the nation distinguishes itself.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening we were visited by a Mr. Henderson, who
+came from the Hudson bay company to trade with the Minnetarees.
+He had been about eight days on his route in
+a direction nearly south, and brought with him tobacco,
+beeds, and other merchandize to trade for furs, and a few
+guns which are to be exchanged for horses.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, December 2. The latter part of the evening
+was warm, and a thaw continued till the morning, when the
+wind shifted to the north. At eleven o'clock the chiefs of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_138" id="Pg_138" title="Pg_138">[138]</a></span>the lower village brought down four of the Sharhas. We
+explained to them our intentions, and advised them to remain
+at peace with each other: we also gave them a flag,
+some tobacco, and a speech for their nation. These were
+accompanied by a letter to messrs. Tabeau and Gravelines
+at the Ricara village, requesting them to preserve peace if
+possible, and to declare the part which we should be forced
+to take if the Ricaras and Sioux made war on those whom
+we had adopted. After distributing a few presents to the
+Sharhas and Mandans, and showing them our curiosities
+we dismissed them, apparently well pleased at their reception.</p>
+
+<p>Monday, December 3. The morning was fine, but in
+the afternoon the weather became cold with the wind from
+the northwest. The father of the Mandan who was killed
+brought us a present of dried pumpkins and some pemitigon,
+for which we gave him some small articles. Our offer
+of assistance to avenge the death of his son seemed to have
+produced a grateful respect from him, as well as from the
+brother of the deceased, which pleased us much.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 4th. The wind continues from the northwest,
+the weather cloudy and raw, and the river rose one inch,
+Oscapsahe and two young chiefs pass the day with us. The
+whole religion of the Mandans consists in the belief of one
+great spirit presiding over their destinies. This being must
+be in the nature of a good genius since it is associated with
+the healing art, and the great spirit is synonymous with
+great medicine, a name also applied to every thing which
+they do not comprehend. Each individual selects for himself
+the particular object of his devotion, which is termed
+his medicine, and is either some invisible being or more
+commonly some animal, which thenceforward becomes his
+protector or his intercessor with the great spirit; to propitiate
+whom every attention is lavished, and every personal
+consideration is sacrificed. "I was lately owner of
+seventeen horses," said a Mandan to us one day, "but I
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_139" id="Pg_139" title="Pg_139">[139]</a></span>have offered them all up to my medicine and am now poor."
+He had in reality taken all his wealth, his horses, into the
+plain, and turning them loose committed them to the care
+of his medicine and abandoned them forever. The horses
+less religious took care of themselves, and the pious votary
+travelled home on foot. Their belief in a future state is
+connected with this tradition of their origin: the whole
+nation resided in one large village under ground near a
+subterraneous lake; a grape-vine extended its roots down to
+their habitation and gave them a view of the light: some of
+the most adventurous climed up the vine and were delighted
+with the sight of the earth, which they found covered with
+buffaloe and rich with every kind of fruits: returning with
+the grapes they had gathered, their countrymen were so
+pleased with the taste of them that the whole nation resolved
+to leave their dull residence for the charms of the
+upper region; men, women and children ascended by means
+of the vine; but when about half the nation had reached the
+surface of the earth, a corpulent woman who was clambering
+up the vine broke it with her weight, and closed upon
+herself and the rest of the nation the light of the sun.
+Those who were left on earth made a village below where
+we saw the nine villages; and when the Mandans die they
+expect to return to the original seats of their forefathers;
+the good reaching the ancient village by means of the lake,
+which the burden of the sins of the wicked will not enable
+them to cross.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 5. The morning was cold and disagreeable,
+the wind from the southeast accompanied with snow: in the
+evening there was snow again and the wind shifted to the
+northeast: we were visited by several Indians with a present
+of pumpkins, and by two of the traders of the northwest
+company.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 6. The wind was violent from the north northwest
+with some snow, the air keen and cold. At eight
+o'clock A.M. the thermometer stood at ten degrees above
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_140" id="Pg_140" title="Pg_140">[140]</a></span>0, and the river rose an inch and a half in the course of the
+day.</p>
+
+<p>Friday, December 7. The wind still continued from the
+northwest and the day is very cold: Shahaka the chief of
+the lower village came to apprise us that the buffaloe were
+near, and that his people were waiting for us to join them
+in the chase: captain Clark with fifteen men went out and
+found the Indians engaged in killing the buffaloe, the hunters
+mounted on horseback and armed with bows and arrows
+encircle the herd, and gradually drive them into a
+plain or an open place fit for the movements of horse; they
+then ride in among them, and singling out a buffaloe, a female
+being preferred, go as close as possible and wound her
+with arrows till they think they have given the mortal
+stroke; when they pursue another till the quiver is exhausted:
+if, which rarely happens, the wounded buffaloe attacks
+the hunter, he evades his blow by the agility of his horse
+which is trained for the combat with great dexterity. When
+they have killed the requisite number they collect their
+game, and the squaws and attendants come up from the
+rear and skin and dress the animals. Captain Clarke killed
+ten buffaloe, of which five only were brought to the fort,
+the rest which could not be conveyed home being seized
+by the Indians, among whom the custom is that whenever
+a buffaloe is found dead without an arrow or any particular
+mark, he is the property of the finder; so that often a hunter
+secures scarcely any of the game he kills if the arrow
+happens to fall off: whatever is left out at night falls
+to the share of the wolves, who are the constant and numerous
+attendants of the buffaloe. The river closed opposite
+the fort last night, an inch and a half in thickness.
+In the morning the thermometer stood at one degree below
+0. Three men were badly frostbitten in consequence
+of their exposure.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 8. The thermometer stood at twelve degrees
+below 0, that is at forty-two degrees below the freezing
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_141" id="Pg_141" title="Pg_141">[141]</a></span>point: the wind was from the northwest. Captain Lewis with
+fifteen men went out to hunt the buffaloe; great numbers of
+which darkened the prairies for a considerable distance:
+they did not return till after dark, having killed eight buffaloe
+and one deer. The hunt was, however, very fatiguing, as
+they were obliged to make a circuit at the distance of more
+than seven miles; the cold too, was so excessive that the
+air was filled with icy particles resembling a fog, and the
+snow generally six or eight inches deep and sometimes
+eighteen, in consequence of which two of the party were
+hurt by falls, and several had their feet frostbitten.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 9. The wind was this day from the east, the
+thermometer at seven degrees above 0, and the sun shone
+clear: two chiefs visited us, one in a sleigh drawn by a dog
+and loaded with meat.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 10. Captain Clarke who had gone out yesterday
+with eighteen men to bring in the meat we had killed the
+day before, and to continue the hunt, came in at twelve
+o'clock. After killing nine buffaloe and preparing that already
+dead, he had spent a cold disagreeable night on the
+snow, with no covering but a small blanket, sheltered by the
+hides of the buffaloe they had killed. We observe large herds
+of buffaloe crossing the river on the ice, the men who were
+frostbitten are recovering, but the weather is still exceedingly
+cold, the wind being from the north, and the thermometer
+at ten and eleven degrees below 0: the rise of the
+river is one inch and a half.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 11. The weather became so intensely cold that
+we sent for all the hunters who had remained out with
+captain Clarke's party, and they returned in the evening several
+of them frostbitten. The wind was from the north and the
+thermometer at sunrise stood at twenty-one below 0, the ice
+in the atmosphere being so thick as to render the weather
+hazy and give the appearance of two suns reflecting each
+other. The river continues at a stand. Pocapsahe made us
+a visit to-day.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_142" id="Pg_142" title="Pg_142">[142]</a></span>Wednesday, December 12. The wind is still from the
+north, the thermometer being at sunrise thirty-eight degrees
+below 0. One of the Ahnahaways brought us down the
+half of an antelope killed near the fort; we had been informed
+that all these animals return to the Black mountains,
+but there are great numbers of them about us at this season
+which we might easily kill, but are unwilling to venture
+out before our constitutions are hardened gradually to
+the climate. We measured the river on the ice, and find it
+five hundred yards wide immediately opposite the fort.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 13. Last night was clear and a very heavy
+frost covered the old snow, the thermometer at sun rise being
+twenty degrees below 0, and followed by a fine day. The
+river falls.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 14. The morning was fine, and the weather having
+moderated so far, that the mercury stood at 0, captain
+Lewis went down with a party to hunt; they proceeded about
+eighteen miles, but the buffaloe having left the banks of the
+river they saw only two, which were so poor as not to be
+worth killing, and shot two deer. Notwithstanding the snow
+we were visited by a large number of the Mandans.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 15. Captain Lewis finding no game returned to
+the fort hunting on both sides of the river, but with no success.
+The wind being from the north, the mercury at sunrise
+eight degrees below 0, and the snow of last night an
+inch and a half in depth. The Indian chiefs continue to visit
+us to-day with presents of meat.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 16. The morning is clear and cold, the mercury
+at sunrise 22&deg; below 0. A Mr. Haney with two other persons
+from the British establishment on the Assiniboin, arrived
+in six days with a letter from Mr. Charles Chabouilles,
+one of the company, who with much politeness offered to
+render us any service in his power.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 17. The weather to-day was colder than any we
+had yet experienced, the thermometer at sunrise being 45&deg;
+below 0, and about eight o'clock it fell to 74&deg; below the freezing
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_143" id="Pg_143" title="Pg_143">[143]</a></span>point. From Mr. Haney, who is a very sensible intelligent
+man, we obtained much geographical information
+with regard to the country between the Missouri and Mississippi,
+and the various tribes of Sioux who inhabit it.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 18. The thermometer at sunrise was 32&deg; below
+0. The Indians had invited us yesterday to join their chace
+to-day, but the seven men whom we sent returned in consequence
+of the cold, which was so severe last night that we
+were obliged to have the sentinel relieved every half hour.
+The northwest traders however left us on their return home.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 19. The weather moderated, and the river
+rose a little, so that we were enabled to continue the picketing
+of the fort. Notwithstanding the extreme cold, we observe
+the Indians at the village engaged out in the open air
+at a game which resembled billiards more than any thing
+we had seen, and which we inclined to suspect may have
+been acquired by ancient intercourse with the French of
+Canada. From the first to the second chief's lodge, a distance
+of about fifty yards, was covered with timber smoothed
+and joined so as to be as level as the floor of one of our
+houses, with a battery at the end to stop the rings: these
+rings were of clay-stone and flat like the chequers for drafts,
+and the sticks were about four feet long, with two short pieces
+at one end in the form of a mace, so fixed that the whole
+will slide along the board. Two men fix themselves at one
+end, each provided with a stick, and one of them with a ring:
+they then run along the board, and about half way slide the
+sticks after the ring.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 20. The wind was from the N.W. the weather
+moderate, the thermometer 24&deg; above 0 at sunrise. We
+availed ourselves of this change to picket the fort near the
+river.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 21. The day was fine and warm, the wind N.W.
+by W. The Indian who had been prevented a few days ago
+from killing his wife, came with both his wives to the fort,
+and was very desirous of reconciling our interpreter, a jealousy
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_144" id="Pg_144" title="Pg_144">[144]</a></span>against whom on account of his wife's taking refuge
+in his house, had been the cause of his animosity. A woman
+brought her child with an abscess in the lower part of the
+back, and offered as much corn as she could carry for some
+medicine; we administered to it of course very cheerfully.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, 22d. A number of squaws and men dressed
+like squaws brought corn to trade for small articles with
+the men. Among other things we procured two horns of
+the animal called by the French the Rock mountain sheep,
+and known to the Mandans by the name of ahsahta. The
+animal itself is about the size of a small elk or large deer:
+the horns winding like those of a ram which they resemble
+also in texture, though larger and thicker.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, 23d. The weather was fine and warm like that
+of yesterday: we were again visited by crowds of Indians of
+all descriptions, who came either to trade or from mere curiosity.
+Among the rest Kogahami, the Little Raven, brought
+his wife and son loaded with corn, and she then entertained
+us with a favourite Mandan dish, a mixture of pumpkins,
+beans, corn, and chokecherries with the stones, all boiled
+together in a kettle, and forming a composition by no means
+unpalatable.</p>
+
+<p>Monday, 24th. The day continued warm and pleasant,
+and the number of visitors became troublesome. As a
+present to three of the chiefs, we divided a fillet of sheepskin
+which we brought for spunging into three pieces each
+of two inches in width; they were delighted at the gift,
+which they deemed of equal value with a fine horse. We
+this day completed our fort, and the next morning being
+Christmas,</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday, 25th, we were awaked before day by a discharge
+of three platoons from the party. We had told the
+Indians not to visit us as it was one of our great medicine
+days; so that the men remained at home and amused themselves
+in various ways, particularly with dancing in which
+they take great pleasure. The American flag was hoisted
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_145" id="Pg_145" title="Pg_145">[145]</a></span>for the first time in the fort; the best provisions we had
+were brought out, and this, with a little brandy, enabled
+them to pass the day in great festivity.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday, 26th. The weather is again temperate, but
+no Indians have come to see us. One of the northwest traders
+who came down to request the aid of our Minnetaree
+interpreter, informs us that a party of Minnetarees who had
+gone in pursuit of the Assiniboins who lately stole their
+horses had just returned. As is their custom, they came
+back in small detachments, the last of which brought home
+eight horses which they had captured or stolen from an
+Assiniboin camp on Mouse river.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday, 27th. A little fine snow fell this morning and
+the air was colder than yesterday, with a high northwest
+wind. We were fortunate enough to have among our men
+a good blacksmith, whom we set to work to make a variety
+of articles; his operations seemed to surprise the Indians
+who came to see us, but nothing could equal their astonishment
+at the bellows, which they considered as a very great
+medicine. Having heretofore promised a more particular
+account of the Sioux, the following may serve as a general
+outline of their history:</p>
+
+<p>Almost the whole of that vast tract of country comprised
+between the Mississippi, the Red River of Lake Winnepeg,
+the Saskaskawan, and the Missouri, is loosely occupied
+by a great nation whose primitive name is Darcota,
+but who are called Sioux by the French, Sues by
+the English. Their original seats were on the Mississippi,
+but they have gradually spread themselves abroad
+and become subdivided into numerous tribes. Of these,
+what may be considered as the Darcotas are the Mindawarcarton,
+or Minowakanton, known to the French by the
+name of the Gens du Lac, or People of the Lake. Their
+residence is on both sides of the Mississippi near the falls
+of St. Anthony, and the probable number of their warriors
+about three hundred. Above them, on the river St. Peter's,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_146" id="Pg_146" title="Pg_146">[146]</a></span>is the Wahpatone, a smaller band of nearly two hundred
+men; and still farther up the same river below Yellow-wood
+river are the Wahpatootas or Gens de Feuilles, an
+inferior band of not more than one hundred men; while the
+sources of the St. Peter's are occupied by the Sisatoones, a
+band consisting of about two hundred warriors.</p>
+
+<p>These bands rarely if ever approach the Missouri, which
+is occupied by their kinsmen the Yanktons and the Tetons.
+The Yanktons are of two tribes, those of the plains,
+or rather of the north, a wandering race of about five hundred
+men, who roam over the plains at the heads of the Jacques,
+the Sioux, and the Red river; and those of the south,
+who possess the country between the Jacques and Sioux
+rivers and the Desmoine. But the bands of Sioux most
+known on the Missouri are the Tetons. The first who are
+met on ascending the Missouri is the tribe called by the
+French the Tetons of the Boise Brule or Burntwood, who
+reside on both sides of the Missouri, about White and Teton
+rivers, and number two hundred warriors. Above them
+on the Missouri are the Teton Okandandas, a band of one
+hundred and fifty men living below the Chayenne river,
+between which and the Wetarhoo river is a third band,
+called Teton Minnakenozzo, of nearly two hundred and
+fifty men; and below the Warreconne is the fourth and last
+tribe of Tetons of about three hundred men, and called Teton
+Saone. Northward of these, between the Assiniboin
+and the Missouri, are two bands of Assiniboins, one on
+Mouse river of about two hundred men, and called Assiniboin
+Menatopa; the other, residing on both sides of White
+river, called by the French Gens de Feuilles, and amounting
+to two hundred and fifty men. Beyond these a band of
+Assiniboins of four hundred and fifty men, and called the
+Big Devils, wander on the heads of Milk, Porcupine, and
+Martha's rivers; while still farther to the north are seen
+two bands of the same nation, one of five hundred and the
+other of two hundred, roving on the Saskaskawan. Those
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_147" id="Pg_147" title="Pg_147">[147]</a></span>Assiniboins are recognised by a similarity of language, and
+by tradition as descendents or seceders from the Sioux;
+though often at war are still acknowledged as relations. The
+Sioux themselves, though scattered, meet annually on the
+Jacques, those on the Missouri trading with those on the
+Mississippi.</p>
+
+
+<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p>
+
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_148" id="Pg_148" title="Pg_148">[148]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<!-- ROUTE MAP -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173"
+        alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The party increase in the favour of the Mandans&mdash;Description of a buffaloe
+dance&mdash;Medicine dance&mdash;The fortitude with which the Indians bear the severity
+of the season&mdash;Distress of the party for want of provisions&mdash;The great
+importance of the blacksmith in procuring it&mdash;Depredations of the Sioux&mdash;The
+homage paid to the medicine stone&mdash;Summary act of justice among
+the Minnetarees&mdash;The process by which the Mandans and Ricaras make
+beads&mdash;Character of the Missouri, of the surrounding country, and of the
+rivers, creeks, islands, &amp;c.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>Friday, 28th. The wind continued high last night,
+the frost severe, and the snow drifting in great quantities
+through the plains.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, 29th. There was a frost fell last night nearly
+one quarter of an inch in depth, which continued to fall
+till the sun had gained some height: the mercury at sunrise
+stood at 9&deg; below 0: there were a number of Indians at
+the fort in the course of the day.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, 30th. The weather was cold, and the thermometer
+20&deg; below 0. We killed one deer, and yesterday one
+of the men shot a wolf. The Indians brought corn, beans,
+and squashes, which they very readily gave for getting their
+axes and kettles mended. In their general conduct during
+these visits they are honest, but will occasionally pilfer any
+small article.</p>
+
+<p>Monday, 31. During the night there was a high wind
+which covered the ice with hillocks of mixed sand and snow:
+the day was however fine, and the Indians came in great
+numbers for the purpose of having their utensils repaired.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday, January 1, 1805. The new year was welcomed
+by two shot from the swivel and a round of small arms.
+The weather was cloudy but moderate; the mercury which
+at sunrise was at 18&deg;, in the course of the day rose to 34&deg;
+above 0: towards evening it began to rain, and at night we
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_149" id="Pg_149" title="Pg_149">[149]</a></span>had snow, the temperature for which is about 0. In the
+morning we permitted sixteen men with their music to go
+up to the first village, where they delighted the whole tribe
+with their dances, particularly with the movements of one
+of the Frenchmen who danced on his head. In return they
+presented the dancers with several buffaloe robes and
+quantities of corn. We were desirous of showing this attention
+to the village, because they had received an impression
+that we had been wanting in regard for them, and
+they had in consequence circulated invidious comparisons
+between us and the northern traders: all these
+however they declared to captain Clarke, who visited them
+in the course of the morning, were made in jest. As captain
+Clarke was about leaving the village, two of their chiefs
+returned from a mission to the Grosventres or wandering
+Minnetarees. These people were encamped about ten miles
+above, and while there one of the Ahnahaways had stolen
+a Minnetaree girl: the whole nation immediately espoused
+the quarrel, and one hundred and fifty of their warriors were
+marching down to revenge the insult on the Ahnahaways.
+The chief of that nation took the girl from the ravisher, and
+giving her to the Mandans requested their intercession.
+The messengers went out to meet the warriors, and delivered
+the young damsel into the hands of her countrymen,
+smoked the pipe of peace with them, and were fortunate
+enough to avert their indignation and induce them to return.
+In the evening some of the men came to the fort and the
+rest slept in the village. Pocapsahe also visited us and
+brought some meat on his wife's back.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday, January 2. It snowed last night, and during
+this day the same scene of gayety was renewed at the
+second village, and all the men returned in the evening.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 3. Last night it became very cold, and this
+morning we had some snow: our hunters were sent out for
+buffaloe, but the game had been frightened from the river
+by the Indians, so that they obtained only one: they however
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_150" id="Pg_150" title="Pg_150">[150]</a></span>killed a hare and a wolf. Among the Indians who visited us
+was a Minnetaree who came to seek his wife: she had been
+much abused and came here for protection, but returned
+with him; as we had no authority to separate those whom
+even the Mandan rites had united.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 4. The morning was cloudy and warm, the mercury
+being 28&deg; above 0: but towards evening the wind changed
+to northwest, and the weather became cold. We sent
+some hunters down the river, but they killed only one buffaloe
+and a wolf. We received the visit of Kagohami who is
+very friendly, and to whom we gave a hankerchief and two
+files.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 5. We had high and boisterous winds last night
+and this morning: the Indians continue to purchase repairs
+with grain of different kinds. In the first village there has
+been a buffaloe dance for the last three nights, which has
+put them all into commotion, and the description which we
+received from those of the party who visited the village
+and from other sources, is not a little ludicrous: the buffaloe
+dance is an institution originally intended for the benefit
+of the old men, and practised at their suggestion. When
+buffaloe becomes scarce they send a man to harangue the
+village, declaring that the game is far off and that a feast
+is necessary to bring it back, and if the village be disposed
+a day and place is named for the celebration of it. At the
+appointed hour the old men arrive, and seat themselves
+crosslegged on skins round a fire in the middle of the lodge
+with a sort of doll or small image, dressed like a female,
+placed before them. The young men bring with them a
+platter of provisions, a pipe of tobacco, and their wives,
+whose dress on the occasion is only a robe or mantle loosely
+thrown round the body. On their arrival each youth selects
+the old man whom he means to distinguish by his favour,
+and spreads before him the provisions, after which he presents
+the pipe and smokes with him. Mox senex vir simulacrum
+parv&aelig; puell&aelig; ostensit. Tune egrediens e&aelig;tu, jecit
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_151" id="Pg_151" title="Pg_151">[151]</a></span>effigium solo et superincumbens, senili ardore veneris complexit.
+Hoc est signum. Denique uxor e turba recessit,
+et jactu corporis, fovet amplexus viri solo recubante. Maritus
+appropinquans senex vir dejecto vultu, et honorem
+et dignitatem ejus conservare amplexu uxoris illum oravit.
+Forsitan imprimis ille refellit; dehine, maritus multis precibus,
+multis lachrymis, et multis donis vehementer intercessit.
+Tune senex amator perculsus miserecordia, tot precibus,
+tot lachrymis, et tot donis, conjugali amplexu submisit.
+Multum ille jactatus est, sed debilis et effoetus senectute,
+frustra jactatus est. Maritus interdum stans juxta guadit
+multum honore, et ejus dignitati sic conservata. Unus nostrum
+sodalium multum alacrior et potentior juventute, hac
+nocte honorem quartour maritorum custodivit.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 6. A clear cold morning with high wind: we
+caught in a trap a large gray wolf, and last night obtained
+in the same way a fox who had for some time infested the
+neighbourhood of the fort. Only a few Indians visited us
+to-day.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 7. The weather was again clear and cold with
+a high northwest wind, and the thermometer at sunrise 22&deg;
+below 0; the river fell an inch. Shahaka the Big White chief
+dined with us, and gave a connected sketch of the country
+as far as the mountains.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 8. The wind was still from the northwest, the
+day cold, and we received few Indians at the fort. Besides
+the buffaloe dance we have just described, there is another
+called medicine dance, an entertainment given by any person
+desirous of doing honour to his medicine or genius. He
+announces, that on such a day he will sacrifice his horses,
+or other property, and invites the young females of the village
+to assist in rendering homage to his medicine; all the
+inhabitants may join in the solemnity, which is performed
+in the open plain and by daylight, but the dance is reserved
+for the virgins or at least the unmarried females, who disdain
+the incumbrance or the ornament of dress. The feast
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_152" id="Pg_152" title="Pg_152">[152]</a></span>is opened by devoting the goods of the master of the feast
+to his medicine, which is represented by a head of the animal
+itself, or by a medicine bag if the deity be an invisible
+being. The young women then begin the dance, in the intervals
+of which each will prostrate herself before the assembly
+to challenge or reward the boldness of the youth,
+who are often tempted by feeling or the hopes of distinction
+to achieve the adventure.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 9. The weather is cold, the thermometer
+at sunrise 21&deg; below 0. Kagohami breakfasted with us, and
+captain Clarke with three or four men accompanied him
+and a party of Indians to hunt, in which they were so fortunate
+as to kill a number of buffaloe: but they were incommoded
+by snow, by high and squally winds, and by extreme
+cold; several of the Indians came to the fort nearly frozen,
+others are missing, and we are uneasy, for one of our men
+who was separated from the rest during the chase has not
+returned: In the morning,</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 10, however, he came back just as we were
+sending out five men in search of him. The night had been
+excessively cold, and this morning at sunrise the mercury
+stood at 40&deg; below 0, or 72 below the freezing point. He
+had however, made a fire and kept himself tolerably warm.
+A young Indian, about thirteen years of age, also came in
+soon after. His father who came last night to inquire after
+him very anxiously, had sent him in the afternoon to the
+fort: he was overtaken by the night, and was obliged to
+sleep on the snow with no covering except a pair of antelope
+skin moccasins and leggings and a buffaloe robe: his
+feet being frozen we put them into cold water, and gave
+him every attention in our power. About the same time an
+Indian who had also been missing returned to the fort, and
+although his dress was very thin, and he had slept on the snow
+without a fire, he had not suffered the slightest inconvenience.
+We have indeed observed that these Indians support the rigours
+of the season in a way which we had hitherto thought
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_153" id="Pg_153" title="Pg_153">[153]</a></span>impossible. A more pleasing reflection occurred at seeing
+the warm interest which the situation of these two persons
+had excited in the village, the boy had been a prisoner and
+adopted from charity, yet the distress of the father proved
+that he felt for him the tenderest affection, the man was a
+person of no distinction, yet the whole village was full of
+anxiety for his safety and when they came to us, borrowed a
+sleigh to bring them home with ease, if they survived, or to
+carry their bodies if they had perished.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 11. We despatched three hunters to join the
+same number whom we had sent below about seven miles
+to hunt elk. Like that of yesterday the weather to-day was
+cold and clear, the thermometer standing at 38&deg; below 0.
+Poscopsahe and Shotahawrora visited us, and past the night
+at the fort.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 12. The weather continues very cold, the mercury
+at sunrise being 20&deg; below 0. Three of the hunters returned,
+having killed three elk.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 13. We have a continuation of clear weather,
+and the cold has increased, the mercury having sunk to 34&deg;
+below 0. Nearly one half of the Mandan nation passed down
+the river to hunt for several days; in these excursions men,
+women and children, with their dogs, all leave the village
+together, and after discovering a spot convenient for the
+game, fix their tents; all the family bear their part in the
+labour, and the game is equally divided among the families
+of the tribe. When a single hunter returns from the chase
+with more than is necessary for his own immediate consumption,
+the neighbours are entitled by custom to a share of it:
+they do not however ask for it, but send a squaw, who without
+saying any thing, sits down by the door of the lodge till
+the master understands the hint, and gives her gratuitously
+a part for her family. Chaboneau who with one man had
+gone to some lodges of Minnetarees near the Turtle mountain,
+returned with their faces much frostbitten. They had
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_154" id="Pg_154" title="Pg_154">[154]</a></span>been about ninety miles distant, and procured from the inhabitants
+some meat and grease, with which they loaded the
+horses. He informs us that the agent of the Hudson bay
+company at that place, had been endeavouring to make unfavourable
+impressions with regard to us on the mind of
+the great chief, and that the N.W. company intend building
+a fort there. The great chief had in consequence spoken
+slightly of the Americans, but said that if we would give
+him our great flag he would come and see us.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 14. The Mandans continue to pass down the
+river on their hunting party, and were joined by six of our
+men. One of those sent on Thursday returned, with information
+that one of his companions had his feet so badly frostbitten
+that he could not walk home. In their excursion
+they had killed a buffaloe, a wolf, two porcupines and a white
+hare. The weather was more moderate to-day, the mercury
+being at 16&deg; below 0, and the wind from the S.E. we
+had however some snow, after which it remained cloudy.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 15. The morning is much warmer than yesterday,
+and the snow begins to melt, though the wind after being
+for some time from the S.E. suddenly shifted to N.W.
+Between twelve and three o'clock A.M. there was a total
+eclipse of the moon, from which we obtained a part of the
+observation necessary for ascertaining the longitude.</p>
+
+<p>We were visited by four of the most distinguished men
+of the Minnetarees, to whom we showed marked attentions,
+as we knew that they had been taught to entertain strong
+prejudices against us; these we succeeded so well in removing,
+that when in the morning,</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 16, about thirty Mandans, among whom six
+were chiefs came to see us, the Minnetarees reproached
+them with their falsehoods, declaring that they were bad
+men and ought to hide themselves. They had told the Minnetarees
+that we would kill them if they came to the fort,
+yet on the contrary they had spent a night there and been
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_155" id="Pg_155" title="Pg_155">[155]</a></span>treated with kindness by the whites, who had smoked with
+them and danced for their amusement. Kagohami visited
+us and brought us a little corn, and soon afterwards one of
+the first war chiefs of the Minnetarees came accompanied
+by his squaw, a handsome woman, whom he was desirous
+we should use during the night. He favoured us with a more
+acceptable present, a draft of the Missouri in his manner,
+and informed us of his intention to go to war in the spring
+against the Snake Indians; we advised him to reflect seriously
+before he committed the peace of his nation to the
+hazards of war; to look back on the numerous nations whom
+war has destroyed, that if he wished his nation to be happy
+he should cultivate peace and intercourse with all his neighbours,
+by which means they would procure more horses, increase
+in numbers, and that if he went to war he would displease
+his great father the president, and forfeit his protection.
+We added that we had spoken thus to all the tribes
+whom we had met, that they had all opened their ears, and
+that the president would compel those who did not voluntarily
+listen to his advice. Although a young man of only
+twenty-six years of age, this discourse seemed to strike him.
+He observed that if it would be displeasing to us he would
+not go to war, since he had horses enough, and that he would
+advise all the nation to remain at home, until we had seen
+the Snake Indians, and discovered whether their intentions
+were pacific. The party who went down with the horses for
+the man who was frostbitten returned, and we are glad to
+find his complaint not serious.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 17. The day was very windy from the north;
+the morning clear and cold, the thermometer at sunrise being
+at 0: we had several Indians with us.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 18. The weather is fine and moderate. Messrs.
+Laroche and M&lsquo;Kenzie, two of the N.W. company's traders,
+visited us with some of the Minnetarees. In the afternoon
+two of our hunters returned, having killed four wolves and
+a blaireau.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_156" id="Pg_156" title="Pg_156">[156]</a></span>Saturday 19. Another cloudy day. The two traders set
+out on their return, and we sent two men with the horses
+thirty miles below to the hunting camp.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 20. The day fair and cold. A number of Indians
+visit us with corn to exchange for articles, and to pay for
+repairs to their household utensils.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 21. The weather was fine and moderate. The
+hunters all returned, having killed during their absence
+three elk, four deer, two porcupines, a fox and a hare.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 22. The cold having moderated and the day
+pleasant, we attempted to cut the boats out of the ice, but
+at the distance of eight inches came to water, under which
+the ice became three feet thick, so that we were obliged to
+desist.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 23. The cold weather returned, the mercury
+having sunk 2&deg; below 0, and the snow fell four inches deep.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 24. The day was colder than any we have
+had lately, the thermometer being at 12&deg; below 0. The hunters
+whom we sent out returned unsuccessful, and the rest
+were occupied in cutting wood to make charcoal.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 25. The thermometer was at 25&deg; below 0, the
+Wind from N.W. and the day fair, so that the men were employed
+in preparing coal, and cutting the boats out of the ice.
+A band of Assiniboins headed by their chief, called by the
+French, Son of the Little Calf, have arrived at the villages.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 26. A fine warm day: a number of Indians
+dine with us: and one of our men is attacked with a violent
+pleurisy.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 27. Another warm and pleasant day: we again
+attempted to get the boat out of the ice. The man who
+has the pleurisy was blooded and sweated, and we were
+forced to take off the toes of the young Indian who was
+frostbitten some time since. Our interpreter returned from the
+villages, bringing with him three of Mr. Laroche's horses
+which he had sent in order to keep them out of the way of
+the Assiniboins, who are very much disposed to steal, and
+who have just returned to their camp.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_157" id="Pg_157" title="Pg_157">[157]</a></span>Monday 28. The weather to-day is clear and cold: we
+are obliged to abandon the plan of cutting the boat through
+the ice, and therefore made another attempt the next day,</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 29, by heating a quantity of stones so as to
+warm the water in the boat, and thaw the surrounding ice:
+but in this too we were disappointed, as all the stones on being
+put into the fire cracked into pieces: the weather warm
+and pleasant: the man with the pleurisy is recovering.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 30. The morning was fair, but afterwards
+became cloudy. Mr. Laroche the trader from the northwest
+company paid us a visit, in hopes of being able to accompany
+us on our journey westward, but this proposal we thought
+it best to decline.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 31. It snowed last night, and the morning is
+cold and disagreeable, with a high wind from the northwest:
+we sent five hunters down the river. Another man is taken
+with the pleurisy.</p>
+
+<p>Friday, February 1. A cold windy day: our hunters returned
+having killed only one deer. One of the Minnetaree
+war chiefs, a young man named Maubuksheahokeah or Seeing
+Snake, came to see us and procure a war hatchet: he
+also requested that we would suffer him to go to war against
+the Sioux and Ricaras who had killed a Mandan some time
+ago: this we refused for reasons which we explained to him.
+He acknowledged that we were right, and promised to open
+his ears to our counsels.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 2. The day is fine: another deer was killed. Mr.
+Laroche who has been very anxious to go with us left the
+fort to-day, and one of the squaws of the Minnetaree interpreter
+is taken ill.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 3. The weather is again pleasant: disappointed
+in all our efforts to get the boats free, we occupied ourselves
+in making iron spikes so as to prize them up by means of
+long poles.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 4. The morning fair and cold, the mercury at
+sunrise being 18&deg; below 0, and the wind from the northwest.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_158" id="Pg_158" title="Pg_158">[158]</a></span>The stock of meat which we had procured in November and
+December being now nearly exhausted, it became necessary
+to renew our supply; captain Clarke therefore took eighteen
+men, and with two sleighs and three horses descended
+the river for the purpose of hunting, as the buffaloe has
+disappeared from our neighbourhood, and the Indians are
+themselves suffering for want of meat. Two deer were killed
+to-day but they were very lean.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 5. A pleasant fair morning with the wind from
+northwest: a number of the Indians come with corn for the
+blacksmith, who being now provided with coal has become
+one of our greatest resources for procuring grain. They
+seem particularly attached to a battle axe, of a very inconvenient
+figure: it is made wholly of iron, the blade extremely
+thin, and from seven to nine inches long; it is sharp at the
+point and five or six inches on each side, whence they converge
+towards the eye, which is circular and about an inch
+in diameter, the blade itself being not more than an inch
+wide, the handle is straight, and twelve or fifteen inches
+long; the whole weighing about a pound. By way of ornament,
+the blade is perforated with several circular holes.
+The length of the blade compared with the shortness of the
+handle render it a weapon of very little strength, particularly
+as it is always used on horseback: there is still however
+another form which is even worse, the same sort of handle
+being fixed to a blade resembling an espontoon.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday, February 6. The morning was fair and pleasant,
+the wind N.W. A number of Indian chiefs visited us
+and withdrew after we had smoked with them contrary to
+their custom, for after being once introduced into our apartment
+they are fond of lounging about during the remainder
+of the day. One of the men killed three antelopes. Our
+blacksmith has his time completely occupied, so great is the
+demand for utensils of different kinds. The Indians are particularly
+fond of sheet iron, out of which they form points
+for arrows and instruments for scraping hides, and when
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_159" id="Pg_159" title="Pg_159">[159]</a></span>the blacksmith cut up an old cambouse of that metal, we obtained
+for every piece of four inches square seven or eight
+gallons of corn from the Indians, who were delighted at the
+exchange.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 7. The morning was fair and much warmer
+than for some days, the thermometer being at 18&deg; above 0,
+and the wind from the S.E. A number of Indians continue
+to visit us; but learning that the interpreter's squaws had
+been accustomed to unbar the gate during the night, we ordered
+a lock put on it, and that no Indian should remain in
+the fort all night, nor any person admitted during the hours
+when the gate is closed, that is from sunset to sunrise.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 8. A fair pleasant morning, with S.E. winds.
+Pocopsahe came down to the fort with a bow, and apologized
+for his not having finished a shield which he had promised
+captain Lewis, and which the weather had prevented
+him from completing. This chief possesses more firmness,
+intelligence, and integrity, than any Indian of this country,
+and he might be rendered highly serviceable in our attempts
+to civilize the nation. He mentioned that the Mandans are
+very much in want of meat, and that he himself had not
+tasted any for several days. To this distress they are often
+reduced by their own improvidence, or by their unhappy
+situation. Their principal article of food is buffaloe-meat,
+their corn, beans, and other grain being reserved for summer,
+or as a last resource against what they constantly dread,
+an attack from the Sioux, who drive off the game and confine
+them to their villages. The same fear too prevents their
+going out to hunt in small parties to relieve their occasional
+wants, so that the buffaloe is generally obtained in large
+quantities and wasted by carelessness.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 9. The morning was fair and pleasant, the wind
+from the S.E. Mr. M&lsquo;Kenzie from the N.W. company
+establishment visited us.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 10. A slight snow fell in the course of the night,
+the morning was cloudy, and the northwest wind blew so
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_160" id="Pg_160" title="Pg_160">[160]</a></span>high that although the thermometer was 18&deg; above 0, the
+day was cooler than yesterday, when it was only 10&deg; above
+the same point. Mr. M&lsquo;Kenzie left us, and Chaboneau returned
+with information that our horses loaded with meat
+were below, but could not cross the ice not being shod.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 11. We sent down a party with sleds, to relieve
+the horses from their loads; the weather fair and cold, with
+a N.W. wind. About five o'clock one of the wives of Chaboneau
+was delivered of a boy; this being her first child she
+was suffering considerable, when Mr. Jessaume told captain
+Lewis that he had frequently administered to persons in her
+situation, a small dose of the rattle of the rattlesnake which
+had never failed to hasten the delivery. Having some of
+the rattle, captain Lewis gave it to Mr. Jessaume who crumbled
+two of the rings of it between his fingers, and mixing
+it with a small quantity of water gave it to her. What effect
+it may really have had it might be difficult to determine,
+but captain Lewis was informed that she had not taken
+it more than ten minutes before the delivery took place.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 12. The morning is fair though cold, the mercury
+being 14&deg; below 0 the wind from the S.E. About
+four o'clock the horses were brought in much fatigued; on
+giving them meal bran moistened with water they would
+not eat it, but preferred the bark of the cottonwood, which
+as is already observed forms their principal food during the
+winter. The horses of the Mandans are so often stolen by
+the Sioux, Ricaras, and Assiniboins, that the invariable rule
+now is to put the horses every night in the same lodge with
+the family. In the summer they ramble in the plains in the
+vicinity of the camp, and feed on the grass, but during cold
+weather the squaws cut down the cottonwood trees as they
+are wanted, and the horses feed on the boughs and bark of
+the tender branches, which are also brought into the lodges
+at night and placed near them. These animals are very severely
+treated; for whole days they are pursuing the buffaloe,
+or burdened with the fruits of the chase, during which
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_161" id="Pg_161" title="Pg_161">[161]</a></span>they scarcely ever taste food, and at night return to a scanty
+allowance of wood; yet the spirit of this valuable animal
+sustains him through all these difficulties, and he is rarely
+deficient either in flesh or vigour.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 13. The morning was cloudy, the thermometer
+at 2&deg; below 0, the wind from the southeast. Captain
+Clarke returned last evening with all his hunting party:
+during their excursion they had killed forty deer, three
+buffaloe, and sixteen elk; but most of the game was too lean
+for use, and the wolves, who regard whatever lies out at
+night as their own, had appropriated a large part of it: when
+he left the fort on the 4th instant, he descended on the ice
+twenty-two miles to New Mandan island, near some of their
+old villages, and encamped, having killed nothing, and therefore
+without food for the night.</p>
+
+<p>Early on the 5th, the hunters went out and killed two
+buffaloe and a deer, but the last only could be used, the
+others being too lean. After breakfast they proceeded down
+to an Indian lodge and hunted during the day: the next
+morning, 6th, they encamped forty-four miles from the fort
+on a sand point near the mouth of a creek on the southwest
+side, which they call Hunting creek, and during this and
+the following day hunted through all the adjoining plains,
+with much success, having killed a number of deer and elk.
+On the 8th, the best of the meat was sent with the horses
+to the fort, and such parts of the remainder as were fit for
+use were brought to a point of the river three miles below,
+and after the bones were taken out, secured in pens built of
+logs, so as to keep off the wolves, ravens and magpies, who
+are very numerous and constantly disappoint the hunter of
+his prey: they then went to the low grounds near the Chisshetaw
+river where they encamped, but saw nothing except
+some wolves on the hills, and a number of buffaloe too
+poor to be worth hunting. The next morning 9th, as there
+was no game and it would have been inconvenient to send it
+back sixty miles to the fort, they returned up the river, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_162" id="Pg_162" title="Pg_162">[162]</a></span>for three days hunted along the banks and plains, and reached
+the fort in the evening of the twelfth much fatigued, having
+walked thirty miles that day on the ice and through
+the snow in many places knee deep, the moccasins too being
+nearly worn out: the only game which they saw besides
+what is mentioned, was some growse on the sandbars in the
+river.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 14. Last night the snow fell three inches deep;
+the day was, however, fine. Four men were despatched with
+sleds and three horses to bring up the meat which had been
+collected by the hunters. They returned however, with intelligence
+that about twenty-one miles below the fort a
+party of upwards of one hundred men, whom they supposed
+to be Sioux, rushed on them, cut the traces of the sleds, and
+carried off two of the horses, the third being given up by
+intercession of an Indian who seemed to possess some authority
+over them; they also took away two of the men's
+knifes, and a tomahawk, which last however they returned.
+We sent up to the Mandans to inform them of it, and to
+know whether any of them would join a party which intended
+to pursue the robbers in the morning. About twelve
+o'clock two of their chiefs came down and said that all their
+young men were out hunting, and that there were few guns
+in the village. Several Indians however, armed some with
+bows and arrows, some with spears and battle-axes, and two
+with fusils, accompanied captain Lewis, who set out,</p>
+
+<p>Friday 15, at sunrise with twenty-four men. The morning
+was fine and cool, the thermometer being at 16&deg; below 0.
+In the course of the day one of the Mandan chiefs returned
+from captain Lewis's party, his eye-sight having become
+so bad that he could not proceed. At this season of the
+year the reflexion from the ice and snow is so intense as to
+occasion almost total blindness. This complaint is very
+common, and the general remedy is to sweat the part affected
+by holding the face over a hot stone, and receiving
+the fumes from snow thrown on it. A large red fox was killed
+to-day.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_163" id="Pg_163" title="Pg_163">[163]</a></span>Saturday 16. The morning was warm, mercury at 32&deg;
+above 0, the weather cloudy: several of the Indians who
+went with captain Lewis returned, as did also one of our men,
+whose feet had been frostbitten.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 17. The weather continued as yesterday, though
+in the afternoon it became fair. Shotawhorora and his son
+came to see us, with about thirty pounds of dried buffaloe
+meat and some tallow.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 18. The morning was cloudy with some snow,
+but in the latter part of the day it cleared up. Mr. M&lsquo;Kenzie
+who had spent yesterday at the fort now left us. Our
+stock of meat is exhausted, so that we must confine ourselves
+to vegetable diet, at least till the return of the party:
+for this, however, we are at no loss, since both on this and
+the following day,</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 19, our blacksmith got large quantities of corn
+from the Indians who came in great numbers to see us.
+The weather was fair and warm, the wind from the south.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday, 20th. The day was delightfully fine; the
+mercury being at sunrise 2&deg; and in the course of the day 22&deg;
+above 0, the wind southerly. Kagohami came down to see
+us early: his village is afflicted by the death of one of their
+eldest men, who from his account to us must have seen one
+hundred and twenty winters. Just as he was dying, he
+requested his grandchildren to dress him in his best robe
+when he was dead, and then carry him on a hill and seat
+him on a stone, with his face down the river towards their
+old villages, that he might go straight to his brother who
+had passed before him to the ancient village under ground.
+We have seen a number of Mandans who have lived to a
+great age; chiefly however the men, whose robust exercises
+fortify the body, while the laborious occupations of the
+women shorten their existence.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 21. We had a continuation of the same
+pleasant weather. Oheenaw and Shahaka came down to see
+us, and mentioned that several of their countrymen had
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_164" id="Pg_164" title="Pg_164">[164]</a></span>gone to consult their medicine stone as to the prospects of
+the following year. This medicine stone is the great oracle
+of the Mandans, and whatever it announces is believed with
+implicit confidence. Every spring, and on some occasions
+during the summer, a deputation visits the sacred spot,
+where there is a thick porous stone twenty-feet in circumference,
+with a smooth surface. Having reached the place
+the ceremony of smoking to it is performed by the deputies,
+who alternately take a whiff themselves and then present the
+pipe to the stone; after this they retire to an adjoining wood
+for the night, during which it may be safely presumed that
+all the embassy do not sleep; and in the morning they read
+the destinies of the nation in the white marks on the stone,
+which those who made them are at no loss to decypher.
+The Minnetarees have a stone of a similar kind, which has
+the same qualities and the same influence over the nation.
+Captain Lewis returned from his excursion in pursuit of the
+Indians. On reaching the place where the Sioux had stolen
+our horses, they found only one sled, and several pair of
+moccasins which were recognised to be those of the Sioux.
+The party then followed the Indian tracks till they reached
+two old lodges where they slept, and the next morning pursued
+the course of the river till they reached some Indian
+camps, where captain Clarke passed the night some time
+ago, and which the Sioux had now set on fire, leaving a little
+corn near the place in order to induce a belief that they
+were Ricaras. From this point the Sioux tracks left the
+river abruptly and crossed into the plains; but perceiving
+that there was no chance of overtaking them, captain Lewis
+went down to the pen where captain Clarke had left some
+meat, which he found untouched by the Indians, and then
+hunted in the low grounds on the river, till he returned with
+about three thousand pounds of meat, some drawn in a sled
+by fifteen of the men, and the rest on horseback; having
+killed thirty-six deer, fourteen elk, and one wolf.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_165" id="Pg_165" title="Pg_165">[165]</a></span>Friday, 22nd. The morning was cloudy and a little snow
+fell, but in the afternoon the weather became fair. We were
+visited by a number of Indians, among whom was Shotawhorora,
+a chief of much consideration among the Mandan,
+although by birth a Ricara.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, 23d. The day is warm and pleasant. Having
+worked industriously yesterday and all this morning we
+were enabled to disengage one of the periogues and haul
+it on shore, and also nearly to cut out the second. The
+father of the boy whose foot had been so badly frozen, and
+whom we had now cured, came to-day and carried him
+home in a sleigh.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, 24th. The weather is again fine. We succeeded
+in loosening the second periogue and barge, though
+we found a leak in the latter. The whole of the next day,</p>
+
+<p>Monday, 25th, we were occupied in drawing up the
+boats on the bank: the smallest one we carried there with
+no difficulty, but the barge was too heavy for our elk-skin
+ropes which constantly broke. We were visited by Orupsehara,
+or Black Moccasin, and several other chiefs, who
+brought us presents of meat on the backs of their squaws,
+and one of the Minnetarees requested and obtained permission
+for himself and his two wives to remain all night
+in the fort. The day was exceedingly pleasant.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 26. The weather is again fine. By great labour
+during the day we got all the boats on the bank by sunset,
+an operation which attracted a great number of Indians
+to the fort.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 27. The weather continues fine. All of us
+employed in preparing tools to build boats for our voyage,
+as we find that small periogues will be much more convenient
+than the barge in ascending the Missouri.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 28. The day is clear and pleasant. Sixteen
+men were sent out to examine the country for trees suitable
+for boats, and were successful in finding them. Two of the
+N.W. company traders arrived with letters; they had likewise
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_166" id="Pg_166" title="Pg_166">[166]</a></span>a root which is used for the cure of persons bitten by
+mad dogs, snakes, and other venomous animals: it is found on
+high grounds and the sides of hills, and the mode of using it is
+to scarify the wound, and apply to it an inch or more of the
+chewed or pounded root, which is to be renewed twice a day;
+the patient must not however chew or swallow any of the
+root, as an inward application might be rather injurious
+than beneficial.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Gravelines with two Frenchmen and two Indians arrived
+from the Ricara nation, with letters from Mr. Anthony
+Tabeau. This last gentleman informs us that the Ricaras
+express their determination to follow our advice, and to
+remain at peace with the Mandans and Minnetarees, whom
+they are desirous of visiting; they also wish to know whether
+these nations would permit the Ricaras to settle near them,
+and form a league against their common enemies the Sioux.
+On mentioning this to the Mandans they agreed to it, observing
+that they always desired to cultivate friendship with
+the Ricaras, and that the Ahnahaways and Minnetarees have
+the same friendly views.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Gravelines states that the band of Tetons whom we
+had seen was well disposed to us, owing to the influence of
+their chief the Black Buffaloe; but that the three upper
+bands of Tetons, with the Sisatoons, and the Yanktons of the
+north, mean soon to attack the Indians in this quarter, with
+a resolution to put to death every white man they encounter.
+Moreover, that Mr. Cameron of St. Peter's has armed
+the Sioux against the Chippeways, who have lately put to
+death three of his men. The men who had stolen our horses
+we found to be all Sioux, who after committing the outrage
+went to the Ricara villages, where they said that they had
+hesitated about killing our men who were with the horses,
+but that in future they would put to death any of us they
+could, as we were bad medicines and deserved to be killed.
+The Ricaras were displeased at their conduct and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_167" id="Pg_167" title="Pg_167">[167]</a></span>refused to give them any thing to eat, which is deemed
+the greatest act of hostility short of actual violence.</p>
+
+<p>Friday, March 1. The day is fine, and the whole party is
+engaged, some in making ropes and periogues, others in burning
+coal, and making battle axes to sell for corn.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 2. Mr. Laroche one of the N.W. company's traders
+has just arrived with merchandise from the British establishments
+on the Assiniboin. The day is fine, and the
+river begins to break up in some places, the mercury being
+between 28&deg; and 36&deg; above 0, and the wind from the N.E.
+We were visited by several Indians.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 3. The weather pleasant, the wind from the E.
+with clouds; in the afternoon the clouds disappeared and the
+wind came from the N.W. The men are all employed in
+preparing the boats; we are visited by Poscapsahe and several
+other Indians with corn. A flock of ducks passed up the
+river to-day.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 4. A cloudy morning with N.W. wind, the latter
+part of the day clear. We had again some Indian visitors
+with a small present of meat. The Assiniboins, who a few
+days since visited the Mandans, returned, and attempted to
+take horses from the Minnetarees, who fired on them; a circumstance
+which may occasion some disturbance between
+the two nations.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 5. About four o'clock in the morning there was
+a slight fall of snow, but the day became clear and pleasant
+with the mercury 40&deg; above 0. We sent down an Indian and
+a Frenchman to the Ricara villages with a letter to Mr.
+Tabeau.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 6. The day was cloudy and smoky in consequence
+of the burning of the plains by the Minnetarees;
+they have set all the neighbouring country on fire in order
+to obtain an early crop of grass which may answer for the
+consumption of their horses, and also as an inducement for
+the buffaloe and other game to visit it. The horses stolen
+two days ago by the Assiniboins have been returned to the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_168" id="Pg_168" title="Pg_168">[168]</a></span>Minnetarees. Ohhaw second chief of the lower Minnetaree
+village came to see us. The river rose a little and overran
+the ice, so as to render the crossing difficult.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday, 7th. The day was somewhat cloudy, and
+colder than usual; the wind from the northeast. Shotawhorora
+visited us with a sick child, to whom some medicine
+was administered. There were also other Indians who
+brought corn and dried buffaloe meat in exchange for blacksmith's
+work.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 8. The day cold and fair with a high easterly
+wind: we were visited by two Indians who gave us an account
+of the country and people near the Rocky mountains
+where they had been.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 9. The morning cloudy and cool, the wind from
+the north. The grand chief of the Minnetarees, who is called
+by the French Le Borgne, from his having but one eye,
+came down for the first time to the fort. He was received
+with much attention, two guns were fired in honour of his
+arrival, the curiosities were exhibited to him, and as he said
+that he had not received the presents which we had sent to
+him on his arrival, we again gave him a flag, a medal, shirt,
+armbraces and the usual presents on such occasions, with all
+which he was much pleased. In the course of the conversation,
+the chief observed that some foolish young men of his
+nation had told him there was a person among us who was
+quite black, and he wished to know if it could be true. We
+assured him that it was true, and sent for York: the Borgne
+was very much surprised at his appearance, examined him
+closely, and spit on his finger and rubbed the skin in order
+to wash off the paint; nor was it until the negro uncovered
+his head, and showed his short hair, that the Borgne could
+be persuaded that he was not a painted white man.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 10. A cold windy day. Tetuckopinreha, chief
+of the Ahnahaways, and the Minnetaree chief Ompsehara,
+passed the day with us, and the former remained during the
+night. We had occasion to see an instance of the summary
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_169" id="Pg_169" title="Pg_169">[169]</a></span>justice of the Indians: a young Minnetaree had carried off
+the daughter of Cagonomokshe, the Raven Man, second chief
+of the upper village of the Mandans; the father went to the
+village and found his daughter, whom he brought home,
+and took with him a horse belonging to the offender: this
+reprisal satisfied the vengeance of the father and of the nation,
+as the young man would not dare to reclaim his horse,
+which from that time became the property of the injured
+party. The stealing of young women is one of the most common
+offenses against the police of the village, and the punishment
+of it always measured by the power or the passions
+of the kindred of the female. A voluntary elopement is of
+course more rigorously chastised. One of the wives of the
+Borgne deserted him in favour of a man who had been her
+lover before the marriage, and who after some time left
+her, and she was obliged to return to her father's house.
+As soon as he heard it the Borgne walked there and found
+her sitting near the fire: without noticing his wife, he began
+to smoke with the father; when they were joined by the
+old men of the village, who knowing his temper had followed
+in hopes of appeasing him. He continued to smoke quietly
+with them, till rising to return, he took his wife by
+the hair, led her as far as the door, and with a single stroke
+of his tomahawk put her to death before her father's eyes:
+then turning fiercely upon the spectators, he said that if
+any of her relations wished to avenge her, they might always
+find him at his lodge; but the fate of the woman had
+not sufficient interest to excite the vengeance of the family.
+The caprice or the generosity of the same chief gave a very
+different result to a similar incident which occurred some
+time afterwards. Another of his wives eloped with a young
+man, who not being able to support her as she wished they
+both returned to the village, and she presented herself before
+the husband, supplicating his pardon for her conduct:
+the Borgne sent for the lover: at the moment when the
+youth expected that he would be put to death, the chief
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_170" id="Pg_170" title="Pg_170">[170]</a></span>mildly asked them if they still preserved their affection for
+each other; and on their declaring that want, and not a
+change of affection had induced them to return, he gave up
+his wife to her lover, with the liberal present of three horses,
+and restored them both to his favour.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 11. The weather was cloudy in the morning
+and a little snow fell, the wind then shifted from southeast
+to northwest and the day became fair. It snowed again in
+the evening, but the next day,</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 12, was fair with the wind from the northwest.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 13. We had a fine day, and a southwest wind.
+Mr. M&lsquo;Kenzie came to see us, as did also many Indians who
+are so anxious for battle-axes that our smiths have not a
+moment's leisure, and procure us an abundance of corn. The
+river rose a little to-day, and so continued.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 14. The wind being from the west, and the
+day fine, the whole party were employed in building boats
+and in shelling corn.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 15. The day is clear, pleasant and warm. We
+take advantage of the fine weather to hang all our Indian
+presents and other articles out to dry before our departure.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 16. The weather is cloudy, the wind from the
+southeast. A Mr. Garrow, a Frenchman who has resided a
+long time among the Ricaras and Mandans, explained to us
+the mode in which they make their large beads, an art
+which they are said to have derived from some prisoners
+of the Snake Indian nation, and the knowledge of which is
+a secret even now confined to a few among the Mandans
+and Ricaras: the process is as follows: glass of different colours
+is first pounded fine and washed, till each kind, which
+is kept separate, ceases to stain the water thrown over it:
+some well seasoned clay, mixed with a sufficient quantity of
+sand to prevent its becoming very hard when exposed to
+heat, and reduced by water to the consistency of dough, is
+then rolled on the palm of the hand, till it becomes of the
+thickness wanted for the hole in the bead; these sticks of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_171" id="Pg_171" title="Pg_171">[171]</a></span>clay are placed upright, each on a little pedestal or ball of
+the same material about an ounce in weight, and distributed
+over a small earthen platter, which is laid on the fire
+for a few minutes, when they are taken off to cool: with
+a little paddle or shovel three or four inches long and sharpened
+at the end of the handle, the wet pounded glass is
+placed in the palm of the hand: the beads are made of an
+oblong form wrapped in a cylindrical form round the stick
+of clay which is laid crosswise over it, and gently rolled
+backwards and forwards till it becomes perfectly smooth.
+If it be desired to introduce any other colour, the surface
+of the bead is perforated with the pointed end of the paddle
+and the cavity filled with pounded glass of that colour: the
+sticks with the string of beads are then replaced on their
+pedestals, and the platter deposited on burning coals or hot
+embers: over the platter an earthern pot containing about
+three gallons, with a mouth large enough to cover the platter,
+is reversed, being completely closed except a small
+aperture at the top, through which are watched the bead:
+a quantity of old dried wood formed into a sort of dough
+or paste is placed round the pot so as almost to cover it, and
+afterwards set on fire: the manufacturer then looks through
+the small hole in the pot, till he sees the beads assume a
+deep red colour, to which succeeds a paler or whitish red,
+or they become pointed at the upper extremity; on which
+the fire is removed and the pot suffered to cool gradually:
+at length it is removed, the beads taken out, the clay in the
+hollow of them picked out with an awl or needle, and it is
+then fit for use. The beads thus formed are in great demand
+among the Indians, and used as pendants to their ears and
+hair, and are sometimes worn round the neck.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 17. A windy but clear and pleasant day, the
+river rising a little and open in several places. Our Minnetaree
+interpreter Chaboneau, whom we intended taking
+with us to the Pacific, had some days ago been worked
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_172" id="Pg_172" title="Pg_172">[172]</a></span>upon by the British traders, and appeared unwilling to accompany
+us, except on certain terms; such as his not being
+subject to our orders, and do duty, or to return whenever he
+chose. As we saw clearly the source of his hesitation, and
+knew that it was intended as an obstacle to our views, we
+told him that the terms were inadmissible, and that we
+could dispense with his services: he had accordingly left us
+with some displeasure. Since then he had made an advance
+towards joining us, which we showed no anxiety to meet;
+but this morning he sent an apology for his improper conduct,
+and agreed to go with us and perform the same duties
+as the rest of the corps; we therefore took him again into
+our service.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 18. The weather was cold and cloudy, the wind
+from the north. We were engaged in packing up the goods
+into eight divisions, so as to preserve a portion of each in
+case of accident. We hear that the Sioux have lately attacked
+a party of Assiniboins and Knistenaux, near the Assiniboin
+river, and killed fifty of them.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 19. Some snow fell last night, and this morning
+was cold, windy, and cloudy. Shahaka and Kagohami came
+down to see us, as did another Indian with a sick child, to
+whom we gave some medicine. There appears to be an approaching
+war, as two parties have already gone from the
+Minnetarees, and a third is preparing.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 20. The morning was cold and cloudy, the wind
+high from the north, but the afternoon was pleasant. The
+canoes being finished, four of them were carried down to the
+river, at the distance of a mile and a half from where they
+were constructed.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 20. The remaining periogues were hauled to
+the same place, and all the men except three, who were left
+to watch them returned to the fort. On his way down,
+which was about six miles, captain Clarke passed along the
+points of the high hills, where he saw large quantities of pumicestone
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_173" id="Pg_173" title="Pg_173">[173]</a></span>on the foot, sides and tops of the hills, which had
+every appearance of having been at some period on fire. He
+collected specimens of the stone itself, the pumicestone,
+and the hard earth; and on being put into the furnace the
+hard earth melted and glazed, the pumicestone melted, and
+the hardstone became a pumicestone glazed.</p>
+
+
+<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p>
+
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_174" id="Pg_174" title="Pg_174">[174]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<!-- ROUTE MAP -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173"
+        alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Indian method of attacking the buffaloe on the ice&mdash;An enumeration of the presents
+sent to the president of the United States&mdash;The party are visited by a Ricara
+chief&mdash;They leave their encampment, and proceed on their journey&mdash;description
+of the Little Missouri&mdash;Some account of the Assiniboins&mdash;Their mode
+of burying the dead&mdash;Whiteearth river described&mdash;Great quantity of salt discovered
+on its banks&mdash;Yellowstone river described&mdash;A particular account of
+the country at the confluence of the Yellowstone and Missouri&mdash;Description of
+the Missouri, the surrounding country, and of the rivers, creeks, islands, &amp;c.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>Friday 22. This was a clear pleasant day, with the wind
+from the S.S.W. We were visited by the second chief of the
+Minnetarees, to whom we gave a medal and some presents,
+accompanied by a speech. Mr. M&lsquo;Kenzie and Mr. Laroche
+also came to see us. They all took their leave next day.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 23. Soon after their departure, a brother of
+the Borgne with other Indians came to the fort. The weather
+was fine, but in the evening we had the first rain that
+has fallen during the winter.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 24. The morning cloudy, but the afternoon fair,
+the wind from the N.E. We are employed in preparing for
+our journey. This evening swans and wild geese flew towards
+the N.E.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 25. A fine day, the wind S.W. The river rose
+nine inches, and the ice began breaking away in several places,
+so as to endanger our canoes which we are hauling down
+to the fort.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 26. The river rose only half an inch, and being
+choaked up with ice near the fort, did not begin to run till
+towards evening. This day is clear and pleasant.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 27. The wind is still high from the S.W.: the
+ice which is ocasionally stopped for a few hours is then
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_175" id="Pg_175" title="Pg_175">[175]</a></span>thrown over shallow sandbars when the river runs. We had
+all our canoes brought down, and were obliged to cauk and
+pitch very attentively the cracks so common in cottonwood.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 28. The day is fair. Some obstacle above has
+prevented the ice from running. Our canoes are now nearly
+ready, and we expect to set out as soon as the river is sufficiently
+clear to permit us to pass.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 29. The weather clear, and the wind from N.W.
+The obstruction above gave way this morning, and the ice
+came down in great quantities; the river having fallen eleven
+inches in the course of the last twenty-four hours. We have
+had few Indians at the fort for the last three or four days,
+as they are now busy in catching the floating buffaloe. Every
+spring as the river is breaking up the surrounding plains
+are set on fire, and the buffaloe tempted to cross the river
+in search of the fresh grass which immediately succeeds to
+the burning: on their way they are often insulated on a large
+cake or mass of ice, which floats down the river: the Indians
+now select the most favourable points for attack, and
+as the buffaloe approaches dart with astonishing agility
+across the trembling ice, sometimes pressing lightly a cake
+of not more than two feet square: the animal is of course
+unsteady, and his footsteps insecure on this new element, so
+that he can make but little resistance, and the hunter, who
+has given him his death wound, paddles his icy boat to the
+shore and secures his prey.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 30. The day was clear and pleasant, the wind
+N.W. and the ice running in great quantities. All our Indian
+presents were again exposed to the air, and the barge
+made ready to descend the Missouri.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 31. Early this morning it rained, and the weather
+continued cloudy during the day; the river rose nine
+inches, the ice not running so much as yesterday. Several
+flocks of geese and ducks fly up the river.</p>
+
+<p>Monday, April 1, 1805. This morning there was a thunder
+storm, accompanied with large hail, to which succeeded
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_176" id="Pg_176" title="Pg_176">[176]</a></span>rain for about half an hour. We availed ourselves of this interval
+to get all the boats in the water. At four o'clock
+P.M. it began to rain a second time, and continued till twelve
+at night. With the exception of a few drops at two or three
+different times, this is the first rain we have had since the
+15th of October last.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 2. The wind was high last night and this morning
+from N.W. and the weather continued cloudy. The
+Mandans killed yesterday twenty-one elk, about fifteen
+miles below, but they were so poor as to be scarcely fit for
+use.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 3. The weather is pleasant, though there
+was a white frost and some ice on the edge of the water.
+We were all engaged in packing up our baggage and merchandize.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 4. The day is clear and pleasant, though the
+wind is high from N.W. We now packed up in different
+boxes a variety of articles for the president, which we shall
+send in the barge. They consisted of a stuffed male and female
+antelope with their skeletons, a weasel, three squirrels
+from the Rocky mountains, the skeleton of the prairie wolf,
+those of the white and gray hare, a male and female blaireau,
+or burrowing dog of the prairie, with a skeleton of the
+female, two burrowing squirrels, a white weasel, and the
+skin of the louservia, the horns of the mountain ram, or
+big-horn, a pair of large elk horns, the horns and tail of the
+black-tailed deer, and a variety of skins, such as those of
+the red fox, white hare, martin, yellow bear obtained from
+the Sioux; also, a number of articles of Indian dress, among
+which was a buffaloe robe, representing a battle fought
+about eight years since between the Sioux and Ricaras
+against the Mandans and Minnetarees, in which the combatants
+are represented on horseback. It has of late years excited
+much discussion to ascertain the period when the art
+of painting was first discovered: how hopeless all researches
+of this kind are, is evident from the foregoing fact. It is
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_177" id="Pg_177" title="Pg_177">[177]</a></span>indebted for its origin to one of the strongest passions of the
+human heart; a wish to preserve the features of a departed
+friend, or the memory of some glorious exploit: this inherits
+equally the bosoms of all men either civilized or savage.
+Such sketches, rude and imperfect as they are, delineate the
+predominant character of the savage nations. If they are
+peaceable and inoffensive, the drawings usually consist of local
+scenery, and their favourite diversions. If the band are
+rude and ferocious, we observe tomahawks, scalpingknives,
+bows, arrows, and all the engines of destruction. A Mandan
+bow and quiver of arrows; also some Ricara tobacco-seed
+and an ear of Mandan corn; to these were added a box of
+plants, another of insects, and three cases containing a burrowing
+squirrel; a prairie hen, and four magpies, all alive.</p>
+
+<p>Friday, 5th. Fair and pleasant, but the wind high from
+the northwest: we were visited by a number of Mandans,
+and are occupied in loading our boats in order to proceed on
+our journey.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, 6th. Another fine day with a gentle breeze
+from the south. The Mandans continue to come to the fort;
+and in the course of the day informed us of the arrival of a
+party of Ricaras on the other side of the river. We sent
+our interpreter to inquire into their reason for coming; and
+in the morning,</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, 7th, he returned with a Ricara chief and three
+of his nation. The chief, whose name is Kagohweto, or
+Brave Raven, brought a letter from Mr. Tabeau, mentioning
+the wish of the grand chiefs of the Ricaras to visit the
+president, and requesting permission for himself and four
+men to join our boat when it descends; to which we consented,
+as it will then be manned with fifteen hands and be
+able to defend itself against the Sioux. After presenting
+the letter, he told us that he was sent with ten warriors by
+his nation to arrange their settling near the Mandans and
+Minnetarees, whom they wished to join; that he considered
+all the neighboring nations friendly except the Sioux,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_178" id="Pg_178" title="Pg_178">[178]</a></span>whose persecution they would no longer withstand, and
+whom they hoped to repel by uniting with the tribes in this
+quarter: he added that the Ricaras intended to follow our
+advice and live in peace with all nations, and requested that
+we would speak in their favour to the Assiniboin Indians.
+This we willingly promised to do, and assured them that
+their great father would protect them and no longer suffer
+the Sioux to have good guns, or to injure his dutiful children.
+We then gave him a small medal, a certificate of his
+good conduct, a carrot of tobacco, and some wampum, with
+which he departed for the Mandan village well satisfied
+with his reception. Having made all our arrangements, we
+left the fort about five o'clock in the afternoon. The party
+now consisted of thirty-two persons. Besides ourselves were
+serjeants John Ordway, Nathaniel Pryor, and Patrick Gass:
+the privates were William Bratton, John Colter, John Collins,
+Peter Cruzatte, Robert Frazier, Reuben Fields, Joseph
+Fields, George Gibson, Silas Goodrich, Hugh Hall,
+Thomas P. Howard, Baptiste Lapage, Francis Labiche,
+Hugh M&lsquo;Neal, John Potts, John Shields, George Shannon,
+John B. Thompson, William Werner, Alexander Willard,
+Richard Windsor, Joseph Whitehouse, Peter Wiser, and
+captain Clarke's black servant York. The two interpreters,
+were George Drewyer and Toussaint Chaboneau. The
+wife of Chaboneau also accompanied us with her young child,
+and we hope may be useful as an interpreter among the
+Snake Indians. She was herself one of that tribe, but having
+been taken in war by the Minnetarees, by whom she was
+sold as a slave to Chaboneau, who brought her up and afterwards
+married her. One of the Mandans likewise embarked
+with us, in order to go to the Snake Indians and obtain a
+peace with them for his countrymen. All this party with
+the baggage was stowed in six small canoes and two large
+periogues. We left the fort with fair pleasant weather though
+the northwest wind was high, and after making about four
+miles encamped on the north side of the Missouri, nearly
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_179" id="Pg_179" title="Pg_179">[179]</a></span>opposite the first Mandan village. At the same time that we
+took our departure, our barge manned with seven soldiers,
+two Frenchmen, and Mr. Gravelines as pilot, sailed for the
+United States loaded with our presents and despatches.</p>
+
+<p>Monday, 8th. The day was clear and cool, the wind
+from the northwest, so that we travelled slowly. After
+breakfasting at the second Mandan village we passed the
+Mahaha at the mouth of Knife river, a handsome stream
+about eighty yards wide. Beyond this we reached the island
+which captain Clarke had visited on the 30th October.
+This island has timber as well as the lowlands on the north,
+but its distance from the water had prevented our encamping
+there during the winter. From the head of this island
+we made three and a half miles to a point of wood on the
+north, passing a high bluff on the south, and having come
+about fourteen miles. In the course of the day one of our
+boats filled and was near sinking; we however saved her
+with the loss of a little biscuit and powder.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday, April 9. We set off as soon as it was light, and
+proceeded five miles to breakfast, passing a low ground on
+the south, covered with groves of cottonwood timber. At
+the distance of six miles, we reached on the north a hunting
+camp of Minnetarees consisting of thirty lodges, and built
+in the usual form of earth and timber. Two miles and a
+quarter farther, comes in on the same side Miry creek, a
+small stream about ten yards wide, which, rising in some
+lakes near the Mouse river, passes through beautiful level
+fertile plains without timber in a direction nearly southwest;
+the banks near its entrance being steep, and rugged on both
+sides of the Missouri. Three miles above this creek we came
+to a hunting party of Minnetarees, who had prepared a park
+or inclosure and were waiting the return of the antelope:
+this animal, which in the autumn retires for food and shelter
+to the Black mountains during the winter, recross the
+river at this season of the year, and spread themselves
+through the plains on the north of the Missouri. We halted
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_180" id="Pg_180" title="Pg_180">[180]</a></span>and smoked a short time with them, and then proceeded
+on through handsome plains on each side of the river, and
+encamped at the distance of twenty-three and a half miles
+on the north side: the day was clear and pleasant, the wind
+high from the south, but afterwards changed to a western
+steady breeze. The bluffs which we passed to-day are upwards
+of one hundred feet high, composed of a mixture of
+yellow clay and sand, with many horizontal strata of carbonated
+wood resembling pit-coal, from one to five feet in
+depth, and scattered through the bluff at different elevations,
+some as high as eighty feet above the water: the hills
+along the river are broken, and present every appearance
+of having been burned at some former period; great quantities
+of pumicestone and lava or rather earth, which seems
+to have been boiled and then hardened by exposure, being
+seen in many parts of these hills where they are broken
+and washed down into gullies by the rain and melting
+snow. A great number of brants pass up the river: there
+are some of them perfectly white, except the large feathers
+of the first and second joint of the wing which are black,
+though in every other characteristic they resemble common
+gray brant: we also saw but could not procure an animal
+that burrows in the ground, and similar in every respect
+to the burrowing squirrel, except that it is only one third
+of its size. This may be the animal whose works we have
+often seen in the plains and prairies; they resemble the labours
+of the salamander in the sand hills of South Carolina
+and Georgia, and like him, the animals rarely come above
+ground; they consist of a little hillock of ten or twelve
+pounds of loose ground which would seem to have been reversed
+from a pot, though no aperture is seen through which
+it could have been thrown: on removing gently the earth,
+you discover that the soil has been broken in a circle of
+about an inch and a half diameter, where the ground is looser
+though still no opening is perceptible. When we stopped
+for dinner the squaw went out, and after penetrating with
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_181" id="Pg_181" title="Pg_181">[181]</a></span>a sharp stick the holes of the mice, near some drift wood,
+brought to us a quantity of wild artichokes, which the mice
+collect and hoard in large numbers; the root is white, of an
+ovate form, from one to three inches long, and generally of
+the size of a man's finger, and two, four, and sometimes six
+roots are attached to a single stalk. Its flavour as well as
+the stalk which issues from it resemble those of the Jerusalem
+artichoke, except that the latter is much larger. A
+large beaver was caught in a trap last night, and the musquitoes
+begin to trouble us.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 10. We again set off early with clear pleasant
+weather, and halted about ten for breakfast, above a
+sandbank which was falling in, and near a small willow
+island. On both sides of the Missouri, after ascending the
+hills near the water, one fertile unbroken plain extends itself
+as far as the eye can reach, without a solitary tree or
+shrub, except in moist situations or in the steep declivities
+of hills where they are sheltered from the ravages of fire.
+At the distance of twelve miles we reached the lower point
+of a bluff on the south; which is in some parts on fire and
+throws out quantities of smoke which has a strong sulphurous
+smell, the coal and other appearances in the bluffs being
+like those described yesterday: at one o'clock we overtook
+three Frenchmen who left the fort a few days before
+us, in order to make the first attempt on this river of hunting
+beaver, which they do by means of traps: their efforts
+promise to be successful for they have already caught
+twelve which are finer than any we have ever seen: they
+mean to accompany us as far as the Yellowstone river in
+order to obtain our protection against the Assiniboins who
+might attack them. In the evening we encamped on a willow
+point to the south opposite to a bluff, above which a
+small creek falls in, and just above a remarkable bend in
+the river to the southwest, which we called the Little Basin.
+The low grounds which we passed to-day possess more
+timber than is usual, and are wider: the current is moderate,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_182" id="Pg_182" title="Pg_182">[182]</a></span>at least not greater than that of the Ohio in high
+tides; the banks too fall in but little; so that the navigation
+comparatively with that lower down the Missouri is safe
+and easy. We were enabled to make eighteen and a half
+miles: we saw the track of a large white bear, there were
+also a herd of antelopes in the plains; the geese and swan
+are now feeding in considerable quantities on the young
+grass in the low prairies; we shot a prairie hen, and a bald
+eagle of which there were many nests in the tall cottonwood
+trees; but could procure neither of two elk which were in
+the plain. Our old companions the musquitoes have renewed
+their visit, and gave us much uneasiness.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday, 11th. We set out at daylight, and after passing
+bare and barren hills on the south, and a plain covered
+with timber on the north, breakfasted at five miles distance:
+here we were regaled with a deer brought in by the
+hunters, which was very acceptable as we had been for
+several days without fresh meat; the country between this
+and fort Mandan being so frequently disturbed by hunters
+that the game has become scarce. We then proceeded with
+a gentle breeze from the south which carried the periogues
+on very well; the day was however so warm that several of
+the men worked with no clothes except round the waist,
+which is the less inconvenient as we are obliged to wade in
+some places owing to the shallowness of the river. At seven
+miles we reached a large sandbar making out from the
+north. We again stopped for dinner, after which we went
+on to a small plain on the north covered with cottonwood
+where we encamped, having made nineteen miles. The
+country around is much the same as that we passed yesterday:
+on the sides of the hills, and even on the banks of
+the rivers, as well as on the sandbars, is a white substance
+which appears in considerable quantities on the surface of
+the earth, and tastes like a mixture of common salt with
+glauber salts: many of the streams which come from the
+foot of the hills, are so strongly impregnated with this substance,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_183" id="Pg_183" title="Pg_183">[183]</a></span>that the water has an unpleasant taste and a purgative
+effect. A beaver was caught last night by one of the
+Frenchmen; we killed two geese, and saw some cranes, the
+largest bird of that kind common to the Missouri and Mississippi,
+and perfectly white except the large feathers on
+the two first joints of the wing which are black. Under a
+bluff opposite to our encampment we discovered some Indians
+with horses, whom we supposed were Minnetarees,
+but the width of the river prevented our speaking to them.</p>
+
+<p>Friday, 12th. We set off early and passed a high range
+of hills on the south side, our periogues being obliged to go
+over to the south in order to avoid a sandbank which was
+rapidly falling in. At six miles we came to at the lower
+side of the entrance of the Little Missouri, where we remained
+during the day for the purpose of making celestial
+observations. This river empties itself on the south side
+of the Missouri, one thousand six hundred and ninety-three
+miles from its confluence with the Mississippi. It rises to
+the west of the Black mountains, across the northern extremity
+of which it finds a narrow rapid passage along high
+perpendicular banks, then seeks the Missouri in a northeastern
+direction, through a broken country with highlands
+bare of timber, and the low grounds particularly supplied
+with cottonwood, elm, small ash, box, alder, and an undergrowth
+of willow, redwood, sometimes called red or swamp-willow,
+the redberry and chokecherry. In its course it
+passes near the northwest side of the Turtle mountain,
+which is said to be only twelve or fifteen miles from its
+mouth in a straight line a little to the south of west, so
+that both the Little Missouri and Knife river have been
+laid down too far southwest. It enters the Missouri with a
+bold current, and is one hundred and thirty-four yards
+wide, but its greatest depth is two feet and a half, and this
+joined to its rapidity and its sandbars, make the navigation
+difficult except for canoes, which may ascend it for a considerable
+distance. At the mouth, and as far as we could
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_184" id="Pg_184" title="Pg_184">[184]</a></span>discern from the hills between the two rivers about three
+miles from their junction, the country is much broken, the
+soil consisting of a deep rich dark coloured loam, intermixed
+with a small proportion of fine sand and covered
+generally with a short grass resembling blue grass. In its
+colour, the nature of its bed, and its general appearance, it
+resembles so much the Missouri as to induce a belief that
+the countries they water are similar in point of soil. From
+the Mandan villages to this place the country is hilly and
+irregular, with the same appearance of glauber salts and
+carbonated wood, the low grounds smooth, sandy, and partially
+covered with cottonwood and small ash; at some distance
+back there are extensive plains of a good soil, but
+without timber or water.</p>
+
+<p>We found great quantities of small onions which grow
+single, the bulb of an oval form, white, about the size of a
+bullet with a leaf resembling that of the chive. On the side
+of a neighbouring hill, there is a species of dwarf cedar: it
+spreads its limbs along the surface of the earth, which it
+almost conceals by its closeness and thickness, and is sometimes
+covered by it, having always a number of roots on the
+under side, while on the upper are a quantity of shoots which
+with their leaves seldom rise higher than six or eight inches;
+it is an evergreen, its leaf more delicate than that of
+the common cedar, though the taste and smell is the same.</p>
+
+<p>The country around has been so recently hunted that
+the game are extremely shy, so that a white rabbit, two beaver,
+a deer, and a bald eagle were all that we could procure.
+The weather had been clear, warm, and pleasant in the
+morning, but about three we had a squall of high wind and
+rain with some thunder, which lasted till after sunset when
+it again cleared off.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 13. We set out at sunrise, and at nine o'clock
+having the wind in our favour went on rapidly past a timbered
+low ground on the south, and a creek on the north at the
+distance of nine miles, which we called Onion creek, from
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_185" id="Pg_185" title="Pg_185">[185]</a></span>the quantity of that plant which grows in the plains near it:
+this creek is about sixteen yards wide at a mile and a half
+above its mouth, it discharges more water than is usual for
+creeks of that size in this country, but the whole plain
+which it waters is totally destitute of timber. The Missouri
+itself widens very remarkably just above the junction with
+the Little Missouri: immediately at the entrance of the latter,
+it is not more than two hundred yards wide, and so shallow
+that it may be passed in canoes with setting poles, while
+a few miles above it is upwards of a mile in width: ten miles
+beyond Onion creek we came to another, discharging itself
+on the north in the centre of a deep bend: on ascending it
+for about a mile and a half, we found it to be the discharge
+of a pond or small lake, which seemed to have been once
+the bed of the Missouri: near this lake were the remains of
+forty-three temporary lodges which seem to belong to the
+Assiniboins, who are now on the river of the same name.
+A great number of swan and geese were also in it, and from
+this circumstance we named the creek Goose creek, and
+the lake by the same name: these geese we observe do not
+build their nests on the ground or in sandbars, but in the
+tops of lofty cottonwood trees: we saw some elk and buffaloe
+to-day but at too great a distance to obtain any of them,
+though a number of the carcases of the latter animal are
+strewed along the shores, having fallen through the ice, and
+been swept along when the river broke up. More bald eagles
+are seen on this part of the Missouri than we have previously
+met with; the small or common hawk, common in
+most parts of the United States, are also found here: great
+quantities of geese are feeding in the prairies, and one flock
+of white brant or goose with black wings, and some gray
+brant with them pass up river, and from their flight
+they seem to proceed much farther to the northwest. We
+killed two antelopes which were very lean, and caught last
+night two beaver: the French hunters who had procured
+seven, thinking the neighborhood of the Little Missouri a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_186" id="Pg_186" title="Pg_186">[186]</a></span>convenient hunting ground for that animal, remained behind
+there: in the evening we encamped in a beautiful plain
+on the north thirty feet above the river, having made twenty-two
+and a half miles.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 14. We set off early with pleasant and fair weather:
+a dog joined us, which we suppose had strayed from
+the Assiniboin camp on the lake. At two and a half miles
+we passed timbered low grounds and a small creek: in these
+low grounds are several uninhabited lodges built with the
+boughs of the elm, and the remains of two recent encampments,
+which from the hoops of small kegs found in them
+we judged could belong to Assiniboins only, as they are the
+only Missouri Indians who use spirituous liquors: of these
+they are so passionately fond that it forms their chief inducement
+to visit the British on the Assiniboin, to whom
+they barter for kegs of rum their dried and pounded meat,
+their grease, and the skins of large and small wolves, and
+small foxes. The dangerous exchange is transported to
+their camps with their friends and relations, and soon exhausted
+in brutal intoxication: so far from considering
+drunkenness as disgraceful, the women and children are
+permitted and invited to share in these excesses with their
+husbands and fathers, who boast how often their skill and
+industry as hunters has supplied them with the means of
+intoxication: in this, as in their other habits and customs,
+they resemble the Sioux from whom they are descended:
+the trade with the Assiniboins and Knistenaux is encouraged
+by the British, because it procures provision for their
+<i>engages</i> on their return from Rainy lake to the English
+river and the Athabasky country where they winter; these
+men being obliged during that voyage to pass rapidly
+through a country but scantily supplied with game. We
+halted for dinner near a large village of burrowing squirrels,
+who we observe generally select a southeasterly exposure,
+though they are sometimes found in the plains. At
+ten and a quarter miles we came to the lower point of an
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_187" id="Pg_187" title="Pg_187">[187]</a></span>island, which from the day of our arrival there we called
+Sunday island: here the river washes the bases of the hills
+on both sides and above the island, which with its sandbar
+extends a mile and a half: two small creeks fall in from the
+south; the uppermost of these, which is the largest, we called
+Chaboneau's creek, after our interpreter who once encamped
+on it several weeks with a party of Indians. Beyond
+this no white man had ever been except two Frenchmen,
+one of whom Lapage is with us, and who having lost their
+way straggled a few miles further, though to what point we
+could not ascertain: about a mile and a half beyond this
+island we encamped on a point of woodland on the north,
+having made in all fourteen miles.</p>
+
+<p>The Assiniboins have so recently left the river that
+game is scarce and shy. One of the hunters shot at an otter
+last evening; a buffaloe too was killed, and an elk, both so
+poor as to be almost unfit for use; two white bear were also
+seen, and a muskrat swimming across the river. The river
+continues wide and of about the same rapidity as the ordinary
+current of the Ohio. The low grounds are wide, the
+moister parts containing timber, the upland extremely broken,
+without wood, and in some places seem as if they had
+slipped down in masses of several acres in surface. The mineral
+appearances of salts, coal, and sulphur, with the burnt hill
+and pumicestone continue, and a bituminous water about the
+colour of strong lye, with the taste of glauber salts and a
+slight tincture of allum. Many geese were feeding in the
+prairies, and a number of magpies who build their nest much
+like those of the blackbird in trees, and composed of small
+sticks, leaves and grass, open at top: the egg is of a bluish
+brown color, freckled with reddish brown spots. We also
+killed a large hooting owl resembling that of the United
+States, except that it was more booted and clad with feathers.
+On the hills are many aromatic herbs, resembling in taste,
+smell and appearance the sage, hysop, wormwood, southern
+wood, juniper and dwarf cedar; a plant also about two or
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_188" id="Pg_188" title="Pg_188">[188]</a></span>three feet high, similar to the camphor in smell and taste,
+and another plant of the same size, with a long, narrow,
+smooth, soft leaf, of an agreeable smell and flavour, which is
+a favourite food of the antelope, whose necks are often perfumed
+by rubbing against it.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 15. We proceeded under a fine breeze from the
+south, and clear pleasant weather. At seven miles we
+reached the lower point of an island in a bend to the south,
+which is two miles in length. Captain Clarke, who went about
+nine miles northward from the river reached the high grounds,
+which, like those we have seen, are level plains without
+timber; here he observed a number of drains, which descending
+from the hills pursue a northeast course, and probably
+empty into the Mouse river, a branch of the Assiniboin, which
+from Indian accounts approaches very near to the Missouri
+at this place. Like all the rivulets of this neighbourhood
+these drains were so strongly impregnated with mineral salts
+that they are not fit to drink. He saw also the remains of
+several camps of Assiniboins; the low grounds on both sides
+of the river are extensive, rich, and level. In a little pond
+on the north, we heard for the first time this season the
+croaking of frogs, which exactly resembles that of the small
+frogs in the United States: there are also in these plains
+great quantities of geese, and many of the grouse, or prairie
+hen, as they are called by the N.W. company traders; the
+note of the male, as far as words can represent it, is cook,
+cook, cook, coo, coo, coo, the first part of which both male
+and female use when flying; the male too drums with his
+wings when he flies in the same way, though not so loud as the
+pheasant; they appear to be mating. Some deer, elk, and goats
+were in the low grounds, and buffaloe on the sand beaches,
+but they were uncommonly shy; we also saw a black bear,
+and two white ones. At fifteen miles we passed on the north
+side a small creek twenty yards wide, which we called Goatpen
+creek, from a park or enclosure for the purpose of catching
+that animal, which those who went up the creek found,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_189" id="Pg_189" title="Pg_189">[189]</a></span>and which we presume to have been left by the Assiniboins.
+Its water is impregnated with mineral salts, and the country
+through which it flows consists of wide and very fertile
+plains, but without any trees. We encamped at the distance
+of twenty-three miles, on a sandpoint to the south; we passed
+in the evening a rock in the middle of the river, the channel
+of which a little above our camp, is confined within eighty
+yards.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 16. The morning was clear, the wind light from
+the S.E. The country presents the same appearance of low
+plains and meadows on the river, bounded a few miles back
+by broken hills, which end in high level fertile lands, the
+quantity of timber is however increasing. The appearance
+of minerals continues as usual, and to-day we found several
+stones which seemed to have been wood, first carbonated
+and then petrified by the water of the Missouri, which has
+the same effect on many vegetable substances. There is indeed
+reason to believe that the strata of coal in the hills
+cause the fire and appearances which they exhibit of being
+burned. Whenever these marks present themselves in the
+bluffs on the river, the coal is seldom seen, and when found
+in the neighborhood of the strata of burnt earth, the coal
+with the sand and sulphurous matter usually accompanying
+it, is precisely at the same height and nearly of the same
+thickness with those strata. We passed three small creeks
+or rather runs, which rise in the hills to the north. Numbers
+of geese, and few ducks chiefly of the mallard and
+bluewinged teal, many buffaloe, elk and deer were also observed,
+and in the timbered low grounds this morning we were
+surprised to observe a great quantity of old hornets' nests:
+we encamped in a point of woods on the south, having come
+eighteen miles, though the circuits which we were obliged
+to make around sandbars very much increased the real distance.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday, April 17. We set off early, the weather being
+fine, and the wind so favourable as to enable us to sail the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_190" id="Pg_190" title="Pg_190">[190]</a></span>greater part of the course. At ten and three quarter miles
+we passed a creek ten yards wide on the south; at eighteen
+miles a little run on the north, and at night encamped in a
+woody point on the south. We had travelled twenty-six
+miles through a country similar to that of yesterday, except
+that there were greater appearances of burnt hills, furnishing
+large quantities of lava and pumicestone, of the last of
+which we observe some pieces floating down the river, as we
+had previously done, as low as the Little Missouri. In all
+the copses of wood are the remains of the Assiniboin encampments;
+around us are great quantities of game, such as
+herds of buffaloe, elk, antelopes, some deer and wolves, the
+tracks of bears, a curlue was also seen, and we obtained
+three beaver, the flesh of which is more relished by the men
+than any other food which we have. Just before we encamped
+we saw some tracks of Indians, who had passed twenty-four
+hours before, and left four rafts, and whom we supposed
+to be a band of Assiniboins on their return from war against
+the Indians on the Rocky mountains.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 18. We had again a pleasant day, and proceeded
+on with a westerly wind, which however changed
+to N.W. and blew so hard that we were obliged to stop at
+one o'clock and remain four hours, when it abated and we
+then continued our course.</p>
+
+<p>We encamped about dark on a woody bank having made
+thirteen miles. The country presented the usual variety
+of highlands interspersed with rich plains. In one of these
+we observed a species of pea bearing a yellow flower, which
+is now in blossom, the leaf and stalk resembling the common
+pea. It seldom rises higher than six inches, and the
+root is perennial. On the rose bushes we also saw a quantity
+of the hair of the buffaloe, which had become perfectly
+white by exposure, and resembled the wool of the sheep,
+except that it was much finer and more soft and silky. A
+buffaloe which we killed yesterday had shed his long hair,
+and that which remained was about two inches long, thick,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_191" id="Pg_191" title="Pg_191">[191]</a></span>fine, and would have furnished five pounds of wool, of which
+we have no doubt an excellent cloth may be made. Our
+game to-day was a beaver, a deer, an elk, and some geese.
+The river has been crooked all day and bearing towards the
+south.</p>
+
+<p>On the hills we observed considerable quantities of dwarf
+juniper, which seldom grows higher than three feet. We
+killed in the course of the day an elk, three geese and a
+beaver. The beaver on this part of the Missouri are in
+greater quantities, larger and fatter, and their fur is more
+abundant and of a darker colour than any we had hitherto
+seen: their favourite food seems to be the bark of the
+cottonwood and willow, as we have seen no other species
+of tree that has been touched by them, and these they gnaw
+to the ground through a diameter of twenty inches.</p>
+
+<p>The next day, Friday, 19th, the wind was so high from
+northwest that we could not proceed, but being less violent
+on</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, 20th, we set off about seven o'clock, and had
+nearly lost one of the canoes as we left the shore, by the
+falling in of a large part of the bank. The wind too became
+again so strong that we could scarcely make one
+mile an hour, and the sudden squalls so dangerous to the
+small boats, that we stopped for the night among some willows
+on the north, not being able to advance more than six
+and a half miles. In walking through the neighbouring
+plains we found a fine fertile soil covered with cottonwood,
+some box, alder, ash, red elm, and an undergrowth of willow,
+rosebushes, honeysuckle, red willow, gooseberry, currant,
+and serviceberries, and along the foot of the hills
+great quantities of hysop. Our hunters procured elk and
+deer which are now lean, and six beaver which are fatter
+and more palatable. Along the plain there were also some
+Indian camps; near one of these was a scaffold about seven
+feet high, on which were two sleds with their harness, and
+under it the body of a female, carefully wrapped in several
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_192" id="Pg_192" title="Pg_192">[192]</a></span>dressed buffaloe skins; near it lay a bag made of buffaloe
+skin, containing a pair of moccasins, some red and blue
+paint, beaver's nails, scrapers for dressing hides, some dried
+roots, several plaits of sweet grass, and a small quantity of
+Mandan tobacco. These things as well as the body itself
+had probably fallen down by accident, as the custom is to
+place them on the scaffold. At a little distance was the
+body of a dog not yet decayed, who had met this reward for
+having dragged thus far in the sled the corpse of his mistress,
+to whom according to the Indian usage he had been
+sacrificed.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, 21st. Last night there was a hard white frost,
+and this morning the weather cold, but clear and pleasant:
+in the course of the day however it became cloudy and the
+wind rose. The country is of the same description as within
+the few last days. We saw immense quantities of buffaloe,
+elk, deer, antelopes, geese, and some swan and ducks, out
+of which we procured three deer, four buffaloe calves,
+which last are equal in flavour to the most delicious veal;
+also two beaver, and an otter. We passed one large and
+two small creeks on the south side, and reached at sixteen
+miles the mouth of Whiteearth river, coming in from the
+north. This river before it reaches the low grounds near
+the Missouri, is a fine bold stream sixty yards wide, and is
+deep and navigable, but it is so much choked up at the
+entrance by the mud of the Missouri, that its mouth is not
+more than ten yards wide. Its course, as far as we could
+discern from the neighbouring hills, is nearly due north,
+passing through a beautiful and fertile valley, though without
+a tree or bush of any description. Half a mile beyond
+this river we encamped on the same side below a point of
+highland, which from its appearance we call Cut bluff.</p>
+
+<p>Monday, 22d. The day clear and cold: we passed a high
+bluff on the north and plains on the south, in which were
+large herds of buffaloe, till breakfast, when the wind became
+so strong ahead that we proceeded with difficulty even with
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_193" id="Pg_193" title="Pg_193">[193]</a></span>the aid of the towline. Some of the party now walked across to
+the Whiteearth river, which here at the distance of four
+miles from its mouth approaches very near to the Missouri. It
+contains more water than is usual in streams of the same
+size at this season, with steep banks about ten or twelve
+feet high, and the water is much clearer than that of the
+Missouri; the salts which have been mentioned as common
+on the Missouri, are here so abundant that in many places
+the ground appears perfectly white, and from this circumstance
+it may have derived its name; it waters an
+open country and is navigable almost to its source, which
+is not far from the Saskaskawan, and judging from its size
+and course, it is probable that it extends as far north as the
+fiftieth degree of latitude. After much delay in consequence
+of the high wind, we succeeded in making eleven
+miles, and encamped in a low ground on the south covered
+with cottonwood and rabbitberries. The hills of the Missouri
+near this place exhibit large irregular broken masses
+of rocks and stones, some of which, although two hundred
+feet above the water, seem at some remote period to have
+been subject to its influence, being apparently worn smooth
+by the agitation of the water. These rocks and stones consist
+of white and gray granite, a brittle black rock, flint,
+limestone, freestone, some small specimens of an excellent
+pebble, and occasionally broken stratas of a black coloured
+stone like petrified wood, which make good whetstones.
+The usual appearances of coal, or carbonated wood, and
+pumicestone still continue, the coal being of a better quality
+and when burnt affords a hot and lasting fire, emitting very
+little smoke or flame. There are huge herds of deer, elk,
+buffaloe, and antelopes in view of us: the buffaloe are not
+so shy as the rest, for they suffer us to approach within one
+hundred yards before they run, and then stop and resume
+their pasture at a very short distance. The wolves to-day
+pursued a herd of them, and at length caught a calf that
+was unable to keep up with the rest; the mothers on these
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_194" id="Pg_194" title="Pg_194">[194]</a></span>occasions defending their young as long as they can retreat
+as fast as the herd, but seldom returning any distance to
+seek for them.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 23. A clear and pleasant morning, but at nine
+o'clock the wind became so high that the boats were in danger
+of upsetting; we therefore were forced to stop at a
+place of safety till about five in the afternoon, when the wind
+being lower we proceeded and encamped on the north at
+the distance of thirteen and a half miles: the party on shore
+brought us a buffaloe calf and three blacktailed deer: the
+sand on the river has the same appearances as usual, except
+that the quantity of wood increases.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 24. The wind blew so high during the whole
+day that we were unable to move; such indeed was its violence,
+that although we were sheltered by high timber the
+waves wet many articles in the boats: the hunters went out
+and returned with four deer, two elk, and some young
+wolves of the small kind. The party are very much afflicted
+with sore eyes, which we presume are occasioned by the
+vast quantities of sand which are driven from the sandbars
+in such clouds as often to hide from us the view of the opposite
+bank. The particles of this sand are so fine and light
+that it floats for miles in the air like a column of thick
+smoke, and is so penetrating that nothing can be kept free
+from it, and we are compelled to eat, drink, and breathe
+it very copiously. To the same cause we attribute the disorder
+of one of our watches, although her cases are double
+and tight; since without any defect in its works, that we can
+discover, it will not run for more than a few minutes without
+stopping.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 25. The wind moderated this morning, but
+was still high; we therefore set out early, the weather being
+so cold that the water froze on the oars as we rowed, and
+about ten o'clock the wind increased so much that we were
+obliged to stop. This detention from the wind and the reports
+from our hunters of the crookedness of the river, induced
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_195" id="Pg_195" title="Pg_195">[195]</a></span>us to believe that we were at no great distance from
+the Yellowstone river. In order therefore to prevent delay
+as much as possible, captain Lewis determined to go on by
+land in search of that river, and make the necessary observations,
+so as to be enabled to proceed on immediately
+after the boats should join him; he therefore landed about
+eleven o'clock on the south side, accompanied by four men;
+the boats were prevented from going until five in the afternoon,
+when they went on a few miles further and encamped
+for the night at the distance of fourteen and a half miles.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 26. We continued our voyage in the morning and
+by twelve o'clock encamped at eight miles distance, at the
+junction of the Missouri and Yellowstone rivers; where we
+were soon joined by captain Lewis.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving us yesterday he pursued his route along the
+foot of the hills, which he ascended at the distance of eight
+miles; from these the wide plains watered by the Missouri
+and the Yellowstone spread themselves before the eye, occasionally
+varied with the wood of the banks, enlivened by
+the irregular windings of the two rivers, and animated by
+vast herds of buffaloe, deer, elk, and antelope. The confluence
+of the two rivers was concealed by the wood, but the
+Yellowstone itself was only two miles distant to the south.
+He therefore descended the hills and encamped on the bank
+of the river, having killed as he crossed the plain four buffaloes;
+the deer alone are shy and retire to the woods, but
+the elk, antelope, and buffaloe suffered him to approach
+them without alarm, and often followed him quietly for some
+distance. This morning he sent a man up the river to examine
+it, while he proceeded down to the junction: the
+ground on the lower side of the Yellowstone near its mouth,
+is flat, and for about a mile seems to be subject to inundation,
+while that at the point or junction, as well as on the
+opposite side of the Missouri, is at the usual height of ten
+or eighteen feet above the water, and therefore not overflown.
+There is more timber in the neighbourhood of this
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_196" id="Pg_196" title="Pg_196">[196]</a></span>place, and on the Missouri, as far below as the Whiteearth
+river, than on any other part of the Missouri on this side of
+the Chayenne: the timber consists principally of cottonwood,
+with some small elm, ash, and box alder. On the sandbars
+and along the margin of the river grows the small-leafed
+willow; in the low grounds adjoining are scattered rosebushes
+three or four feet high, the redberry, serviceberry and
+redwood. The higher plains are either immediately on the
+river, in which case they are generally timbered, and have
+an undergrowth like that of the low grounds, with the addition
+of the broad-leafed willow, gooseberry, chokecherry,
+purple currant, and honeysuckle; or they are between the
+low grounds and the hills, and for the most part without
+wood or any thing except large quantities of wild hysop;
+this plant rises about two feet high, and like the willow of
+the sandbars is a favourite food of the buffaloe, elk, deer,
+grouse, porcupine, hare, and rabbit. This river which had
+been known to the French as the Roche jaune, or as we have
+called it the Yellowstone, rises according to Indian information
+in the Rocky mountains; its sources are near those
+of the Missouri and the Platte, and it may be navigated in
+canoes almost to its head. It runs first through a mountainous
+country, but in many parts fertile and well timbered; it
+then waters a rich delightful land, broken into vallies and
+meadows, and well supplied with wood and water till it reaches
+near the Missouri open meadows and low grounds, sufficiently
+timbered on its borders. In the upper country its
+course is represented as very rapid, but during the two last
+and largest portions, its current is much more gentle than
+that of the Missouri, which it resembles also in being turbid
+though with less sediment. The man who was sent up the
+river, reported in the evening that he had gone about eight
+miles, that during that distance the river winds on both sides
+of a plain four or five miles wide, that the current was gentle
+and much obstructed by sandbars, that at five miles he had
+met with a large timbered island, three miles beyond which a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_197" id="Pg_197" title="Pg_197">[197]</a></span>creek falls in on the S.E. above a high bluff, in which are
+several strata of coal. The country as far as he could discern,
+resembled that of the Missouri, and in the plain he met
+several of the bighorn animals, but they were too shy to be
+obtained. The bed of the Yellowstone, as we observed it
+near the mouth, is composed of sand and mud, without a
+stone of any kind. Just above the confluence we measured
+the two rivers, and found the bed of the Missouri five hundred
+and twenty yards wide, the water occupying only
+three hundred and thirty, and the channel deep: while
+the Yellowstone, including its sandbar, occupied eight hundred
+and fifty-eight yards, with two hundred and ninety-seven
+yards of water: the deepest part of the channel is
+twelve feet, but the river is now falling and seems to be nearly
+at its summer height.</p>
+
+<p>April 27. We left the mouth of the Yellowstone. From
+the point of junction a wood occupies the space between the
+two rivers, which at the distance of a mile comes within two
+hundred and fifty yards of each other. There a beautiful
+low plain commences, and widening as the rivers recede,
+extends along each of them for several miles, rising about
+half a mile from the Missouri into a plain twelve feet higher
+than itself. The low plain is a few inches above high water
+mark, and where it joins the higher plain there is a channel
+of sixty or seventy yards in width, through which a
+part of the Missouri when at its greatest height passes into
+the Yellowstone. At two and a half miles above the junction
+and between the high and low plain is a small lake, two
+hundred yards wide, extending for a mile parallel with the
+Missouri along the edge of the upper plain. At the lower
+extremity of this lake, about four hundred yards from the
+Missouri, and twice that distance from the Yellowstone,
+is a situation highly eligible for a trading establishment; it
+is in the high plain which extends back three miles in width,
+and seven or eight miles in length, along the Yellowstone,
+where it is bordered by an extensive body of woodland, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_198" id="Pg_198" title="Pg_198">[198]</a></span>along the Missouri with less breadth, till three miles above
+it is circumscribed by the hills within a space four yards in
+width. A sufficient quantity of limestone for building may
+easily be procured near the junction of the rivers; it does
+not lie in regular stratas, but is in large irregular masses,
+of a light colour and apparently of an excellent quality.
+Game too is very abundant, and as yet quite gentle; above
+all, its elevation recommends it as preferable to the land at
+the confluence of the rivers, which their variable channels
+may render very insecure. The N.W. wind rose so high
+at eleven o'clock, that we were obliged to stop till about
+four in the afternoon, when we proceeded till dusk. On the
+south a beautiful plain separates the two rivers, till at about
+six miles there is a timbered piece of low ground, and a little
+above it bluffs, where the country rises gradually from
+the river; the situations on the north more high and open.
+We encamped on that side, the wind, the sand which it raised,
+and the rapidity of the current having prevented our
+advancing more than eight miles; during the latter part of
+the day the river becomes wider and crowded with sandbars:
+although the game is in such plenty we kill only what is necessary
+for our subsistence. For several days past we have
+seen great numbers of buffaloe lying dead along the shore,
+and some of them partly devoured by the wolves; they have
+either sunk through the ice during the winter, or been drowned
+in attempting to cross, or else, after crossing to some
+high bluff, found themselves too much exhausted either to
+ascend or swim back again, and perished for want of food;
+in this situation we found several small parties of them.
+There are geese too in abundance, and more bald-eagles than
+we have hitherto observed; the nests of these last being always
+accompanied by those of two or three magpies, who
+are their inseparable attendants.</p>
+
+
+<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p>
+
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_199" id="Pg_199" title="Pg_199">[199]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<!-- ROUTE MAP -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173"
+        alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Unusual appearance of salt&mdash;The formidable character of the white bear&mdash;Porcupine
+river described&mdash;Beautiful appearance of the surrounding country&mdash;Immense
+quantities of game&mdash;Milk river described&mdash;Extraordinary character
+of Bigdry river&mdash;An instance of uncommon tenacity of life in a white
+bear&mdash;Narrow escape of one of the party from that animal&mdash;A still more remarkable
+instance&mdash;Muscleshell river described.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>Sunday 28. The day was clear and pleasant, and the
+wind having shifted to southeast, we could employ our sails,
+and went twenty-four miles to a low ground on the north opposite
+to steep bluffs: the country on both sides is much broken,
+the hills approaching nearer to the river, and forming
+bluffs, some of a white and others of a red colour, and
+exhibiting the usual appearances of minerals, and some
+burnt hills though without any pumicestone; the salts are
+in greater quantities than usual, and the banks and sandbars
+are covered with a white incrustation like frost.
+The low grounds are level, fertile and partially timbered,
+but are not so wide as for a few days past. The woods
+are now green, but the plains and meadows seem to have
+less verdure than those below: the only streams which
+we met to-day are two small runs on the north and one on
+the south, which rise in the neighbouring hills, and have
+very little water. At the distance of eighteen miles the
+Missouri makes a considerable bend to the southeast: the
+game is very abundant, the common, and mule or blacktailed
+deer, elk, buffaloe, antelope, brown bear, beaver, and
+geese. The beaver have committed great devastation
+among the trees, one of which, nearly three feet in diameter,
+has been gnawed through by them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_200" id="Pg_200" title="Pg_200">[200]</a></span>Monday 29. We proceeded early with a moderate wind:
+captain Lewis who was on shore with one hunter met about
+eight o'clock two white bears: of the strength and ferocity
+of this animal, the Indians had given us dreadful accounts:
+they never attack him but in parties of six or eight persons,
+and even then are often defeated with the loss of one or
+more of the party. Having no weapons but bows and arrows,
+and the bad guns with which the traders supply them, they
+are obliged to approach very near to the bear; and as no
+wound except through the head or heart is mortal, they
+frequently fall a sacrifice if they miss their aim. He rather
+attacks than avoids a man, and such is the terror which he
+has inspired, that the Indians who go in quest of him paint
+themselves and perform all the superstitious rites customary
+when they make war on a neighbouring nation. Hitherto
+those we had seen did not appear desirous of encountering
+us, but although to a skilful rifleman the danger is very
+much diminished, yet the white bear is still a terrible animal:
+on approaching these two, both captain Lewis and the
+hunter fired and each wounded a bear: one of them made his
+escape; the other turned upon captain Lewis and pursued
+him seventy or eighty yards, but being badly wounded he
+could not run so fast as to prevent him from reloading his
+piece, which he again aimed at him, and a third shot from
+the hunter brought him to the ground: he was a male not
+quite full grown, and weighed about three hundred pounds:
+the legs are somewhat longer than those of the black bear,
+and the talons and tusks much larger and longer. The testicles
+are also placed much farther forward and suspended
+in separate pouches from two to four inches asunder, while
+those of the black bear are situated back between the thighs
+and in a single pouch like those of the dog: its colour is a yellowish
+brown, the eyes small, black, and piercing, the front
+of the fore legs near the feet is usually black, and the fur
+is finer, thicker, and deeper than that of the black bear:
+add to which, it is a more furious animal, and very remarkable
+for the wounds which it will bear without dying.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_201" id="Pg_201" title="Pg_201">[201]</a></span>We are surrounded with deer, elk, buffaloe, antelopes,
+and their companions the wolves, who have become more
+numerous and make great ravages among them: the hills
+are here much more rough and high, and almost overhang
+the banks of the river. There are greater appearances of
+coal than we have hitherto seen, the stratas of it being in
+some places six feet thick, and there are stratas of burnt
+earth, which are always on the same level with those of coal.
+In the evening after coming twenty-five miles we encamped
+at the entrance of a river which empties itself into a bend
+on the north side of the Missouri: this stream which we
+called Martha's river, is about fifty yards wide, with water
+for fifteen yards, the banks are of earth, and steep, though
+not high, and the bed principally of mud. Captain Clarke,
+who ascended it for three miles, found that it continued of
+the same width with a gentle current, and pursuing its
+course about north 30&deg; west, through an extensive, fertile,
+and beautiful valley, but without a single tree. The water
+is clear, and has a brownish yellow tint; at this place the
+highlands which yesterday and to-day had approached so
+near the river became lower, and receding from the water
+left a valley seven or eight miles wide.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 30. The wind was high from the north during
+last evening and continued so this morning: we however
+continued, and found the river more winding than usual
+and with a number of sand islands and bars, on one of which
+last we encamped at the distance of twenty-four miles.
+The low grounds are fertile and extensive but with very
+little timber, and that cottonwood, very bad of its kind,
+being too small for planks, and broken and dead at the top
+and unsound in the centre of the trunk. We passed some
+ancient lodges of driftwood which do not appear to have
+been lately inhabited. The game continues abundant: we
+killed the largest male elk we have yet seen; on placing
+it in its natural erect position, we found that it measured
+five feet three inches from the point of the hoof to the top
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_202" id="Pg_202" title="Pg_202">[202]</a></span>of the shoulder. The antelopes are yet lean and the females
+are with young: this fleet and quick-sighted animal is
+generally the victim of its curiosity: when they first see the
+hunters they run with great velocity; if he lies down on the
+ground and lifts up his arm, his hat, or his foot, the antelope
+returns on a light trot to look at the object, and sometimes
+goes and returns two or three times till they approach
+within reach of the rifle; so too they sometimes leave their
+flock to go and look at the wolves who crouch down, and if
+the antelope be frightened at first repeat the same manoeuvre,
+and sometimes relieve each other till they decoy it
+from the party when they seize it. But generally the wolves
+take them as they are crossing the rivers, for although
+swift of foot they are not good swimmers.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday, May 1. The wind was in our favour and we
+were enabled to use the sails till twelve o'clock, when the
+wind became so high and squally that we were forced to
+come to at the distance of ten miles on the south, in a low
+ground stocked with cottonwood, and remain there during
+the day; one of the canoes being separated from us, and not
+able to cross over in consequence of the high waves. The
+country around is more pleasant than that through which
+we had passed for several days, the hills being lower, the
+low grounds wider and better supplied with timber, which
+consists principally of cottonwood: the undergrowth willow
+on the banks and sandbars, rosebushes, redwillow, and the
+broad-leafed willow in the low plains, while the high country
+on both sides is one extensive plain without wood, though
+the soil is a dark, rich, mellow loam. Our hunters killed a
+buffaloe, an elk, a goat, and two beaver, and also a bird of
+the plover kind.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday, 2d. The wind continued high during the
+night, and at daylight it began to snow and did not stop till
+ten o'clock, when the ground was covered an inch deep,
+forming a striking contrast with the vegetation which is
+now considerably advanced; some flowers having put forth,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_203" id="Pg_203" title="Pg_203">[203]</a></span>and the cottonwood leaves as large as a dollar. The wind
+lulled about five o'clock in the afternoon, and we then proceeded
+along wide fertile low grounds and high level plains,
+and encamped at the distance of four miles. Our game to-day
+was deer, elk, and buffaloe: we also procured three
+beaver who are quite gentle, as they have not been hunted,
+but when the hunters are in pursuit they never leave their
+huts during the day: this animal we esteem a great delicacy,
+particularly the tail, which when boiled resembles in flavor
+the flesh tongues and sounds of the codfish, and is generally
+so large as to afford a plentiful meal for two men. One of
+the hunters in passing near an old Indian camp found several
+yards of scarlet cloth, suspended on the bough of a tree
+as a sacrifice to the deity by the Assiniboins: the custom of
+making these offerings being common among that people
+as indeed among all the Indians on the Missouri. The air
+was sharp this evening; the water froze on the oars as we
+rowed, and in the morning.</p>
+
+<p>Friday, 3d, the weather became quite cold, the ice was
+a quarter of an inch thick in the kettle, and the snow still
+continued on the hills though it has melted from the plains.
+The wind too continued high from the west, but not so
+violently as to prevent our going on. At two miles from
+our encampment we passed a curious collection of bushes
+about thirty feet high and ten or twelve in diameter, tied in
+the form of a fascine and standing on end in the middle of
+the low ground: this too we supposed to have been left by
+the Indians as a religious sacrifice: at twelve o'clock the usual
+hour we halted for dinner. The low grounds on the river
+are much wider than common, sometimes extending from
+five to nine miles to the highlands, which are much lower
+than heretofore, not being more than fifty or sixty feet
+above the lower plain: through all this valley traces of the
+ancient bed of the river are every where visible, and since
+the hills have become lower, the stratas of coal, burnt
+earth, and pumicestone have in a great measure ceased,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_204" id="Pg_204" title="Pg_204">[204]</a></span>there being in fact none to-day. At the distance of fourteen
+miles we reached the mouth of a river on the north, which
+from the unusual number of porcupines near it, we called
+Porcupine river. This is a bold and beautiful stream one
+hundred and twelve yards wide, though the water is only
+forty yards at its entrance: captain Clarke who ascended it
+several miles and passed it above where it enters the highlands,
+found it continued nearly of the same width and about
+knee deep, and as far as he could distinguish for twenty
+miles from the hills, its course was from a little to the
+east of north. There was much timber on the low grounds:
+he found some limestone also on the surface of the earth in
+the course of his walk, and saw a range of low mountains
+at a distance to the west of north, whose direction was
+northwest; the adjoining country being every where level,
+fertile, open, and exceedingly beautiful. The water of this
+river is transparent, and is the only one that is so of all those
+that fall into the Missouri: before entering a large sandbar
+through which it discharges itself, its low grounds are
+formed of a stiff blue and black clay, and its banks which
+are from eight to ten feet high and seldom if ever overflow
+are composed of the same materials. From the quantity of
+water which this river contains, its direction, and the nature
+of the country through which it passes, it is not improbable
+that its sources may be near the main body of the
+Saskaskawan, and as in high water it can be no doubt navigated
+to a considerable distance, it may be rendered the
+means of intercourse with the Athabasky country, from
+which the northwest company derive so many of their valuable
+furs.</p>
+
+<p>A quarter of a mile beyond this river a creek falls in on
+the south, to which on account of its distance from the mouth
+of the Missouri, we gave it the name of Two-thousand mile
+creek: it is a bold stream with a bed thirty yards wide.
+Three miles and a half above Porcupine river, we reached
+some high timber on the north, and encamped just above an
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_205" id="Pg_205" title="Pg_205">[205]</a></span>old channel of the river, which is now dry. We saw vast
+quantities of buffaloe, elk, deer, principally of the long tailed
+kind, antelopes, beaver, geese, ducks, brant, and some
+swan. The porcupines too are numerous, and so careless and
+clumsy that we can approach very near without disturbing
+them as they are feeding on the young willows; towards
+evening we also found for the first time, the nest of a goose
+among some driftwood, all that we have hitherto seen being
+on the top of a broken tree on the forks, and invariably
+from fifteen to twenty feet or more in height.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 4. We were detained till nine in order to repair
+the rudder of one of the boats, and when we set out the wind
+was ahead; at six and a half miles we passed a small creek
+in a deep bend on the south with a sand island opposite to it,
+and then passing along an extensive plain which gradually
+rises from the north side of the river, encamped at the distance
+of eighteen miles in a point of woodland on the north:
+the river is this day wider than usual, and crowded with
+sandbars on all sides: the country is level, fertile, and beautiful,
+the low grounds extensive and contain a much greater
+portion of timber than is common: indeed all the forepart
+of the day the river was bordered with timber on both sides,
+a circumstance very rare on the Missouri, and the first that
+has occurred since we left the Mandans. There are as
+usual vast quantities of game, and extremely gentle; the
+male buffaloe particularly will scarcely give way to us, and
+as we approach will merely look at us for a moment, as
+something new, and then quietly resume their feeding. In
+the course of the day we passed some old Indian hunting
+camps, one of which consisted of two large lodges fortified
+with a circular fence, twenty or thirty feet in diameter, and
+made of timber laid horizontally, the beams overlaying each
+other to the height of five feet, and covered with the trunks
+and limbs of trees that have drifted down the river: the
+lodges themselves are formed by three or more strong sticks
+about the size of a man's leg or arm, and twelve feet long,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_206" id="Pg_206" title="Pg_206">[206]</a></span>which are attached at the top by a whith of small willows,
+and spreading out so as to form at the base a circle of ten
+or fourteen feet in diameter: against these are placed pieces
+of driftwood and fallen timber, usually in three ranges one
+on the other, and the interstices are covered with leaves,
+bark, and straw, so as to form a conical figure about ten
+feet high, with a small aperture in one side for the door.
+It is, however, at best a very imperfect shelter against the
+inclemencies of the seasons.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 5. We had a fine morning, and the wind being
+from the east we used our sails. At the distance of five miles
+we came to a small island, and twelve miles farther encamped
+on the north, at the distance of seventeen miles. The
+country like that of yesterday is beautiful in the extreme.
+Among the vast quantities of game around us, we distinguish
+a small species of goose differing considerably from
+the common Canadian goose; its neck, head, and beak, being
+much thicker, larger, and shorter in proportion to its
+size, which is nearly a third smaller; the noise too resembling
+more that of the brant or of a young goose that has
+not yet fully acquired its note; in other respects its colour,
+habits, and the number of feathers in the tail, the two species
+correspond; this species also associates in flocks with
+the large geese, but we have not seen it pair off with them.
+The white brant is about the size of the common brown
+brant, or two thirds of the common goose, than which it is
+also six inches shorter from the extremity of the wings,
+though the beak, head, and neck are larger and stronger:
+the body and wings are of a beautiful pure white, except
+the black feathers of the first and second joints of the wings;
+the beak and legs are of a reddish or flesh-coloured white,
+the eye of a moderate size, the pupil of a deep sea-green incircled
+with a ring of yellowish brown, the tail consists of
+sixteen feathers equally long, the flesh is dark and as well
+as its note differs but little from those of the common brant,
+whom in form and habits it resembles, and with whom it
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_207" id="Pg_207" title="Pg_207">[207]</a></span>sometimes unites in a common flock; the white brant also
+associate by themselves in large flocks, but as they do not
+seem to be mated or paired off, it is doubtful whether they
+reside here during the summer for the purpose of rearing
+their young.</p>
+
+<p>The wolves are also very abundant, and are of two species.
+First, the small wolf or burrowing dog of the prairies,
+which are found in almost all the open plains. It is of
+an intermediate size between the fox and dog, very delicately
+formed, fleet and active. The ears are large, erect,
+and pointed, the head long and pointed, like that of the fox;
+the tail long and bushy; the hair and fur of a pale reddish
+brown colour, though much coarser than that of the fox;
+the eye of a deep sea-green colour, small and piercing; the
+talons rather longer than those of the wolf of the Atlantic
+states, which animal as far as we can perceive is not to be
+found on this side of the river Platte. These wolves usually
+associate in bands of ten or twelve, and are rarely if
+ever seen alone, not being able singly to attack a deer or
+antelope. They live and rear their young in burrows,
+which they fix near some pass or spot much frequented by
+game, and sally out in a body against any animal which
+they think they can overpower, but on the slightest alarm
+retreat to their burrows making a noise exactly like that
+of a small dog.</p>
+
+<p>The second species is lower, shorter in the legs and
+thicker than the Atlantic wolf; their colour, which is not
+affected by the seasons, is of every variety of shade, from a
+gray or blackish brown to a cream coloured white. They
+do not burrow, nor do they bark, but howl, and they frequent
+the woods and plains, and skulk along the skirts
+of the buffaloe herds, in order to attack the weary or
+wounded.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Clarke and one of the hunters met this evening
+the largest brown bear we have seen. As they fired he
+did not attempt to attack, but fled with a most tremendous
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_208" id="Pg_208" title="Pg_208">[208]</a></span>roar, and such was its extraordinary tenacity of life,
+that although he had five balls passed through his lungs
+and five other wounds, he swam more than half across the
+river to a sandbar, and survived twenty minutes. He
+weighed between five and six hundred pounds at least, and
+measured eight feet seven inches and a half from the nose
+to the extremity of the hind feet, five feet ten inches and
+half round the breast, three feet eleven inches round the
+neck, one foot eleven inches round the middle of the foreleg,
+and his talons, five on each foot, were four inches and
+three eighths in length. It differs from the common black
+bear in having its talons much longer and more blunt; its
+tail shorter; its hair of a reddish or bay brown, longer,
+finer, and more abundant; his liver, lungs, and heart, much
+larger even in proportion to his size, the heart particularly
+being equal to that of a large ox; his maw ten times larger;
+his testicles pendant from the belly and in separate pouches
+four inches apart: besides fish and flesh he feeds on roots,
+and every kind of wild fruit.</p>
+
+<p>The antelope are now lean and with young, so that they
+may readily be caught at this season, as they cross the river
+from S.W. to N.E.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 6. The morning being fair and the wind favourable,
+we set sail, and proceeded on very well the greater
+part of the day. The country continues level, rich, and beautiful;
+the low grounds wide and comparatively with the other
+parts of the Missouri, well supplied with wood. The appearances
+of coal, pumicestone, and burnt earth have ceased,
+though the salts of tartar or vegetable salts continue on the
+banks and sandbars, and sometimes in the little ravines at the
+base of the low hills. We passed three streams on the south;
+the first at the distance of one mile and a half from our
+camp was about twenty-five yards wide, but although it contained
+some water in standing pools it discharges none; this
+we called Littledry creek, about eight miles beyond which
+is Bigdry creek; fifty yards wide, without any water; the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_209" id="Pg_209" title="Pg_209">[209]</a></span>third is six miles further, and has the bed of a large river
+two hundred yards wide, yet without a drop of water: like
+the other two this stream, which we called Bigdry river,
+continues its width undiminished as far as we can discern.
+The banks are low, this channel formed of a fine
+brown sand, intermixed with a small proportion of little
+pebbles of various colours, and the country around flat and
+without trees. They had recently discharged their waters,
+and from their appearance and the nature of the country
+through which they pass, we concluded that they rose in the
+Black mountains, or in the level low plains which are
+probably between this place and the mountains; that the
+country being nearly of the same kind and of the same latitude,
+the rains of spring melting the snows about the same
+time, conspire with them to throw at once vast quantities of
+water down these channels, which are then left dry during
+the summer, autumn, and winter, when there is very little
+rain. We had to-day a slight sprinkling. But it lasted a very
+short time. The game is in such plenty that it has become
+a mere amusement to supply the party with provisions. We
+made twenty-five miles to a clump of trees on the north where
+we passed the night.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 7. The morning was pleasant and we proceeded
+at an early hour. There is much driftwood floating, and
+what is contrary to our expectation, although the river is
+rising, the water is somewhat clearer than usual. At eleven
+o'clock the wind became so high that one of the boats was
+nearly sunk, and we were obliged to stop till one, when we
+proceeded on, and encamped on the south, above a large sandbar
+projecting from the north, having made fifteen miles.
+On the north side of the river are the most beautiful plains
+we have yet seen: they rise gradually from the low grounds
+on the water to the height of fifty or sixty feet, and then extend
+in an unbroken level as far as the eye can reach: the
+hills on the south are more broken and higher, though at
+some distance back the country becomes level and fertile.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_210" id="Pg_210" title="Pg_210">[210]</a></span>There are no more appearances of burnt earth, coal,
+or pumicestone, though that of salt still continues, and
+the vegetation seems to have advanced but little since
+the twenty-eighth of last month: the game is as abundant
+as usual. The bald-eagles, of whom we see great numbers,
+probably feed on the carcases of dead animals,
+for on the whole Missouri we have seen neither the blue-crested
+fisher, nor the fishing-hawks, to supply them with
+their favourite food, and the water of the river is so turbid
+that no bird which feeds exclusively on fish can procure a
+subsistence.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 8. A light breeze from the east carried us sixteen
+miles, till we halted for dinner at the entrance of a river
+on the north. Captain Clarke who had walked on the south,
+on ascending a high point opposite to its entrance discovered a
+level and beautiful country which it watered; that its course
+for twelve or fifteen miles was N.W. when it divided into
+two nearly equal branches, one pursuing a direction nearly
+north, the other to the W. of N.W: its width at the entrance
+is one hundred and fifty yards, and on going three miles up,
+captain Lewis found it to be of the same breadth, and sometimes
+more; it is deep, gentle, and has a large quantity of
+water; its bed is principally of mud, the banks abrupt, about
+twelve feet in height, and formed of a dark, rich loam and
+blue clay; the low grounds near it are wide and fertile, and
+possess a considerable proportion of cottonwood and willow.
+It seems to be navigable for boats and canoes, and this circumstance
+joined to its course and the quantity of water, which
+indicates that it passes through a large extent of country, we
+are led to presume that it may approach the Saskashawan
+and afford a communication with that river. The water
+has a peculiar whiteness, such as might be produced by a
+tablespoon full of milk in a dish of tea, and this circumstance
+induced us to call it Milk river. In the evening we
+had made twenty-seven miles, and encamped on the south.
+The country on that side consists in general of high broken
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_211" id="Pg_211" title="Pg_211">[211]</a></span>hills, with much gray, black and brown granite scattered
+over the surface of the ground. At a little distance
+from the river there is no timber on either side, the wood
+being confined as below to the margin of the river; so that
+unless the contrary is particularly mentioned, it is always
+understood that the upland is perfectly naked, and that
+we consider the low grounds well timbered if even a fifth
+be covered with wood. The wild liquorice is found in
+great abundance on these hills, as is also the white apple.
+As usual we are surrounded by buffaloe, elk, common and
+blacktailed deer, beaver, antelopes and wolves. We observed
+a place where an Indian had recently taken the
+hair off an antelope's skin, and some of the party thought
+they distinguished imperfectly some smoke and Indian
+lodges up Milk river, marks which we are by no means desirous
+of realizing, as the Indians are probably Assiniboins,
+and might be very troublesome.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday, 9th. We again had a favourable wind and
+sailed along very well. Between four and five miles we
+passed a large island in a deep bend to the north, and a
+large sandbar at the upper point. At fifteen and a quarter
+miles we reached the bed of a most extraordinary
+river which presents itself on the south: though as wide as
+the Missouri itself, that is about half a mile, it does not
+discharge a drop of water and contains nothing but a few
+standing pools. On ascending it three miles we found an
+eminence from which we saw the direction of the channel,
+first south for ten or twelve miles, then turning to the east
+of southeast as far as we could see; it passes through a wide
+valley without timber, and the surrounding country consists
+of waving low hills interspersed with some handsome level
+plains; the banks are abrupt and consist of a black or yellow
+clay; or of a rich sandy loam, but though they do not
+rise more than six or eight feet above the bed, they exhibit
+no appearance of being overflowed: the bed is entirely
+composed of a light brown sand, the particles of which like
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_212" id="Pg_212" title="Pg_212">[212]</a></span>those of the Missouri are extremely fine. Like the dry
+rivers we passed before, this seemed to have discharged its
+waters recently, but the watermark indicated that its greatest
+depth had not been more than two feet: this stream, if it
+deserve the name, we called Bigdry river. About a mile
+below is a large creek on the same side, which is also perfectly
+dry: the mineral salts and quartz are in large quantities
+near this neighbourhood. The sand of the Missouri
+from its mouth to this place has been mixed with a substance
+which we had presumed to be a granulated chalk, but which
+is most probably this quartz. The game is now in great
+quantities, particularly the elk and buffaloe, which last is
+so gentle that the men are obliged to drive them out of the
+way with sticks and stones. The ravages of the beaver are
+very apparent: in one place the timber was entirely prostrated
+for a space of three acres in front on the river
+and one in depth, and great part of it removed, although the
+trees were in large quantities, and some of them as thick as
+the body of a man. At the distance of twenty-four miles
+we encamped, after making twenty-five and a half miles, at
+the entrance of a small creek in a bend on the north; to
+which we gave the name of Werner's creek after one of
+our men.</p>
+
+<p>For several days past the river has been as wide as it
+generally is near its mouth, but as it is much shallower,
+crowded with sandbars, and the colour of the water has become
+much clearer, we do not yet despair of reaching the
+Rock mountains, for which we are very anxious.</p>
+
+<p>Friday, 10th. We had not proceeded more than four
+and a quarter miles when the violence of the wind forced
+us to halt for the day under some timber in a bend on the
+south side. The wind continued high, the clouds thick and
+black, and we had a slight sprinkling of rain several times
+in the course of the day. Shortly after our landing a dog
+came to us, and as this induced us to believe that we are near
+the hunting grounds of the Assiniboins, who are a vicious
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_213" id="Pg_213" title="Pg_213">[213]</a></span>ill-disposed people, it was necessary to be on our guard:
+we therefore inspected our arms which we found in good
+order, and sent several hunters to scour the country, but
+they returned in the evening having seen no tents, nor any
+recent tracks of Indians. Biles and imposthumes are very
+common among the party, and sore eyes continue in a
+greater or less degree with all of us; for the imposthumes
+we use emollient poultices, and apply to the eyes a solution
+of two grains of white vitriol and one of sugar of lead with
+one ounce of water.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, 11th. The wind blew very hard in the night,
+but having abated this morning we went on very well, till in
+the afternoon the wind arose and retarded our progress;
+the current too was strong, the river very crooked, and
+the banks as usual constantly precipitating themselves in
+large masses into the water. The highlands are broken
+and approach nearer the river than they do below. The
+soil however of both hills and low grounds appear as fertile
+as that further down the river: it consists of a black looking
+loam with a small portion of sand, which cover the hills
+and bluffs to the depth of twenty or thirty feet, and when
+thrown in the water dissolves as readily as loaf-sugar, and
+effervesces like marle; there are also great appearances of
+quartz and mineral salts: the first is most commonly seen
+in the faces of the bluffs, the second is found on the hills as
+well as the low grounds, and in the gullies which come
+down from the hills; it lies in a crust of two or three inches in
+depth, and may be swept up with a feather in large quantities.
+There is no longer any appearance of coal burnt earth
+or pumicestone. We saw and visited some high hills on the
+north side about three miles from the river, whose tops were
+covered with the pitch-pine: this in the first pine we have
+seen on the Missouri, and it is like that of Virginia, except
+that the leaves are somewhat longer; among this pine is also
+a dwarf cedar, sometimes between three or four feet high,
+but generally spreading itself like a vine along the surface
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_214" id="Pg_214" title="Pg_214">[214]</a></span>of the earth, which it covers very closely, putting out roots
+from the under side. The fruit and smell resemble those
+of the common red cedar, but the leaf is finer and more
+delicate. The tops of the hills where these plants grow
+have a soil quite different from that just described, the
+basis of it is usually yellow or white clay, and the general
+appearance light coloured, sandy, and barren, some
+scattering tufts of sedge being almost its only herbage.
+About five in the afternoon one of our men who had been
+afflicted with biles, and suffered to walk on shore, came
+running to the boats with loud cries and every symptom of
+terror and distress: for some time after we had taken him
+on board he was so much out of breath as to be unable to
+describe the cause of his anxiety, but he at length told us
+that about a mile and a half below he had shot a brown bear
+which immediately turned and was in close pursuit of him;
+but the bear being badly wounded could not overtake him.
+Captain Lewis with seven men immediately went in search of
+him, and having found his track followed him by the blood
+for a mile, and found him concealed in some thick brushwood,
+and shot him with two balls through the skull.
+Though somewhat smaller than that killed a few days ago,
+he was a monstrous animal and a most terrible enemy: our
+man had shot him through the centre of the lungs, yet he
+had pursued him furiously for half a mile, then returned
+more than twice that distance, and with his talons had prepared
+himself a bed in the earth two feet deep and five feet
+long, and was perfectly alive when they found him, which was
+at least two hours after he received the wound. The wonderful
+power of life which these animals possess render them
+dreadful: their very track in the mud or sand, which we have
+sometimes found eleven inches long and seven and a quarter
+wide, exclusive of the talons, is alarming; and we had rather
+encounter two Indians than meet a single brown bear.
+There is no chance of killing them by a single shot unless
+the ball goes through the brains, and this is very difficult
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_215" id="Pg_215" title="Pg_215">[215]</a></span>on account of two large muscles which cover the side of the
+forehead, and the sharp projection of the centre of the
+frontal bone, which is also thick. Our encampment was
+on the south at the distance of sixteen miles from that of
+last night; the fleece and skin of the bear were a heavy
+burden for two men, and the oil amounted to eight gallons.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, 12th. The weather being clear and calm, we
+set out early. Within a mile we came to a small creek,
+about twenty yards wide, emptying itself on the south. At
+eleven and three quarter miles we reached a point of woodland
+on the south, opposite to which is a creek of the same
+width as the last, but with little water, which we called
+Pine creek. At eighteen and three quarter miles we came
+to on the south opposite to the lower point of a willow island,
+situated in a deep bend of the river to the southeast: here
+we remained during the day, the wind having risen at twelve
+so high that we could not proceed: it continued to blow
+violently all night, with occasional sprinklings of rain from
+sunset till midnight. On both sides of the river the country
+is rough and broken, the low grounds becoming narrower;
+the tops of the hills on the north exhibits some scattered
+pine and cedar, on the south the pine has not yet commenced,
+though there is some cedar on the sides of the hills
+and in the little ravines. The chokecherry, the wild hysop,
+sage, fleshy-leafed thorn, and particularly the aromatic
+herb on which the antelope and hare feed, are to be found
+on the plains and hills. The soil of the hills has now altered
+its texture considerably: their bases, like that of the river
+plains, is as usual a rich, black loam, while from the middle
+to the summits they are composed of a light brown-coloured
+earth, poor and sterile, and intermixed with a coarse
+white sand.</p>
+
+<p>Monday, 13th. The wind was so strong that we could
+not proceed till about one o'clock, when we had to encounter
+a current rather stronger than usual. In the course of a
+mile and a half we passed two small creeks on the south,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_216" id="Pg_216" title="Pg_216">[216]</a></span>one of eighteen the other of thirty yards width, but neither
+of them containing any water, and encamped on the south
+at a point of woodland, having made only seven miles.
+The country is much the same as yesterday, with little
+timber in the low grounds, and a small quantity of pine and
+cedar on the northern hills. The river however continues
+to grow clearer, and this as well as the increased rapidity
+induces us to hope for some change of country. The game
+is as usual so abundant that we can get without difficulty
+all that is necessary.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday, 14th. There was some fog on the river this
+morning, which is a very rare occurrence. At the distance
+of a mile and a half we reached an island in a bend on the
+north, which continued for about half a mile, when at the
+head of it a large creek comes in on the north, to which we
+gave the name of Gibson's creek. At seven and a half miles
+is a point of rocks on the south, above a creek on the same
+side, which we called Sticklodge creek: five miles further
+is a large creek on the south, which like the two others has
+no running water; and at sixteen and a half miles a timbered
+point on the north, where we encamped for the night. The
+country is like that of yesterday, except that the low grounds
+are wider; there are also many high black bluffs along the
+banks: the game too is in great abundance. Towards evening
+the men in the hindmost canoes discovered a large
+brown bear lying in the open grounds, about three hundred
+paces from the river: six of them, all good hunters, immediately
+went to attack him, and concealing themselves by a
+small eminence came unperceived within forty paces of him:
+four of the hunters now fired, and each lodged a ball in his
+body, two of them directly through the lungs: the furious
+animal sprung up and ran openmouthed upon them; as he
+came near, the two hunters who had reserved their fire
+gave him two wounds, one of which breaking his shoulder
+retarded his motion for a moment; but before they could
+reload he was so near that they were obliged to run to the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_217" id="Pg_217" title="Pg_217">[217]</a></span>river, and before they reached it he had almost overtaken
+them: two jumped into the canoe; the other four separated,
+and concealing themselves in the willows fired as fast as
+each could reload: they struck him several times, but instead
+of weakening the monster each shot seemed only to
+direct him towards the hunter, till at last he pursued two
+of them so closely, that they threw aside their guns and
+pouches, and jumped down a perpendicular bank of twenty
+feet into the river; the bear sprang after them, and was
+within a few feet of the hindmost, when one of the hunters
+on shore shot him in the head and finally killed him: they
+dragged him to the shore, and found that eight balls had
+passed through him in different directions; the bear was old
+and the meat tough, so that they took the skin only, and
+rejoined us at camp, where we had been as much terrified
+by an accident of a different kind. This was the narrow
+escape of one of our canoes containing all our papers,
+instruments, medicine, and almost every article indispensible
+for the success of our enterprise. The canoe being under sail,
+a sudden squall of wind struck her obliquely, and turned
+her considerably. The man at the helm, who was unluckily
+the worst steersman of the party, became alarmed, and instead
+of putting her before the wind luffed her up into it.
+The wind was so high that it forced the brace of the squaresail
+out of the hand of the man who was attending it, and
+instantly upset the canoe, which would have turned
+bottom upwards but for the resistance made by the awning.
+Such was the confusion on board, and the waves ran so high,
+that it was half a minute before she righted, and then nearly
+full of water, but by baling out she was kept from sinking
+until they rowed ashore; besides the loss of the lives of
+three men who not being able to swim would probably have
+perished, we should have been deprived of nearly every
+thing necessary for our purpose, at a distance of between
+two and three thousand miles from any place where we could
+supply the deficiency.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_218" id="Pg_218" title="Pg_218">[218]</a></span>Wednesday 15. As soon as a slight shower of rain had
+passed, we spread out the articles to dry; but the weather
+was so damp and cloudy that they derived little benefit
+from exposure. Our hunters procured us deer, buffaloe,
+and beaver.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 16. The morning was fair and we were enabled
+to dry and repack our stores: the loss we sustained is
+chiefly in the medicines, many articles of which are completely
+spoiled, and others considerably injured. At four
+o'clock we embarked, and after making seven miles encamped
+on the north near some wood: the country on both sides
+is broken, the low grounds narrower and with less timber,
+though there are some scattered pine and cedar on the steep
+declivities of the hills, which are now higher than usual.
+A white bear tore the coat of one of the men which he had
+left on shore; and two of the party wounded a large panther
+who was feasting on a deer. We caught some lean antelopes
+as they were swimming the river, and killed two
+buffaloe.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 17. We set out early and proceeded on very well;
+the banks being firm and the shore bold we were enabled to
+use the towline, which, whenever the banks will permit it,
+is the safest and most expeditious mode of ascending the
+river, except under a sail with a steady breeze. At the distance
+of ten and a half miles we came to the mouth of a
+small creek on the south, below which the hills approach
+the river, and continue near it during the day: three miles
+further is a large creek on the north, and again six and
+three quarter miles beyond it, another large creek to the
+south, which contain a small quantity of running water of a
+brackish taste. The last we called Rattlesnake creek from
+our seeing that animal near it. Although no timber can be
+observed on it from the Missouri, it throws out large quantities
+of driftwood, among which were some pieces of coal
+brought down by the stream. We continued on one mile
+and a quarter, and encamped on the south, after making
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_219" id="Pg_219" title="Pg_219">[219]</a></span>twenty and a half miles. The country in general is rugged,
+the hills high, with their summits and sides partially covered
+with pine and cedar, and their bases on both sides washed
+by the river: like those already mentioned the lower part
+of these hills is a dark rich loam, while the upper region for
+one hundred and fifty feet consists of a whitish brown sand,
+so hard as in many places to resemble stone, though in fact
+very little stone or rock of any kind is to be seen on the
+hills. The bed of the Missouri is much narrower than usual,
+being not more than between two and three hundred yards
+in width, with an uncommonly large proportion of gravel;
+but the sandbars, and low points covered with willows have
+almost entirely disappeared: the timber on the river consists
+of scarcely any thing more than a few scattered cottonwood
+trees. The saline incrustations along the banks and
+the foot of the hills are more abundant than usual. The
+game is in great quantities, but the buffaloe are not so
+numerous as they were some days ago: two rattlesnakes were
+seen to-day, and one of them killed: it resembles those of
+the middle Atlantic states, being about two feet six inches
+long, of a yellowish brown on the back and sides, variegated
+with a row of oval dark brown spots lying transversely on
+the back from the neck to the tail, and two other rows of
+circular spots of the same colour on the sides along the edge
+of the scuta: there are one hundred and seventy-six scuta
+on the belly, and seventeen on the tail. Captain Clarke saw
+in his excursions a fortified Indian camp which appeared to
+have been recently occupied, and was, we presumed, made
+by a party of Minnetarees who went to war last March.</p>
+
+<p>Late at night we were roused by the sergeant of the guard
+in consequence of a fire which had communicated to a tree
+overhanging our camp. The wind was so high, that we had
+not removed the camp more than a few minutes when a large
+part of the tree fell precisely on the spot it had occupied, and
+would have crushed us if we had not been alarmed in time.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_220" id="Pg_220" title="Pg_220">[220]</a></span>Saturday 18. The wind continued high from the west,
+but by means of the towline we were able to make nineteen
+miles, the sandbars being now few in number, the river narrow
+and the current gentle; the willow has in a great measure
+disappeared, and even the cottonwood, almost the only
+timber remaining, is growing scarce. At twelve and three
+quarter miles we came to a creek on the north, which was
+perfectly dry. We encamped on the south opposite the
+lower point of an island.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 19. The last night was disagreeably cold; and
+in the morning there was a very heavy fog which obscured
+the river so much as to prevent our seeing the way. This
+is the first fog of any degree of thickness which we have
+experienced: there was also last evening a fall of dew, the
+second which we have seen since entering this extensive
+open country. About eight o'clock the fog dispersed, and
+we proceeded with the aid of the towline: the island near
+which we were encamped, was three quarters of a mile in
+length. The country resembles that of yesterday, high hills
+closely bordering the river. In the afternoon the river became
+crooked, and contained more sawyers or floating timber
+than we have seen in the same space since leaving the
+Platte. Our game consisted of deer, beaver, and elk: we
+also killed a brown bear, who, although shot through the
+heart, ran at his usual pace nearly a quarter of a mile before
+he fell. At twenty-one miles is a willow island half a
+mile in length, on the north side, a quarter of a mile beyond
+which is a shoal of rapid water under a bluff: the water
+continued very strong for some distance beyond it: at half
+a mile we came to a sandbar on the north, from which to
+our place of encampment was another half mile, making in
+all twenty-two and a quarter miles. The saline substances
+which we have mentioned continue to appear; and the men
+are much afflicted with sore eyes and imposthumes.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 20. As usual we set out early, and the banks
+being convenient for that purpose, we used the towline:
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_221" id="Pg_221" title="Pg_221">[221]</a></span>the river is narrow and crooked, the water rapid, and the
+country much like that of yesterday: at the distance of two
+and a quarter miles we passed a large creek with but little
+water, to which we gave the name of Blowingfly creek,
+from the quantity of those insects found in its neighbourhood.
+They are extremely troublesome, infesting our meat
+whilst cooking and at our meals. After making seven miles
+we reached by eleven o'clock the mouth of a large river on
+the south, and encamped for the day at the upper point of
+its junction with the Missouri. This stream which we suppose
+to be that called by the Minnetarees the Muscleshell
+river, empties into the Missouri two thousand two hundred
+and seventy miles above the mouth of the latter river, and
+in latitude 47&deg; 0' 24" 6 north. It is one hundred and ten
+yards wide, and contains more water than streams of that
+size usually do in this country; its current is by no means
+rapid, and there is every appearance of its being susceptible
+of navigation by canoes for a considerable distance: its
+bed is chiefly formed of coarse sand and gravel, with an
+occasional mixture of black mud; the banks abrupt and nearly
+twelve feet high, so that they are secure from being overflowed:
+the water is of a greenish yellow cast and much
+more transparent than that of the Missouri, which itself,
+though clearer than below, still retains its whitish hue and
+a portion of its sediment. Opposite to the point of junction
+the current of the Missouri is gentle, and two hundred and
+twenty-two yards in width, the bed principally of mud (the
+little sand remaining being wholly confined to the points)
+and still too deep to use the setting pole. If this be, as we
+suppose, the Muscleshell, our Indian information is, that
+it rises in the first chain of the Rocky mountains not far
+from the sources of the Yellowstone, whence in its course
+to this place it waters a high broken country, well timbered
+particularly on its borders, and interspersed with handsome
+fertile plains and meadows. We have reason, however, to
+believe, from their giving a similar account of the timber
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_222" id="Pg_222" title="Pg_222">[222]</a></span>where we now are, that the timber of which they speak is
+similar to that which we have seen for a few days past,
+which consists of nothing more than a few straggling small
+pine and dwarf cedar, on the summits of the hills, nine-tenths
+of the ground being totally destitute of wood, and covered
+with a short grass, aromatic herbs, and an immense quantity
+of prickly pears: though the party who explored it for
+eight miles represented low grounds on the river as well
+supplied with cottonwood of a tolerable size, and of an excellent
+soil. They also reported that the country is broken
+and irregular like that near our camp; that about five miles
+up a handsome river about fifty yards wide, which we named
+after Chaboneau's wife, Sahcajahweah, or Birdwoman's
+river, discharges itself into the Muscleshell on the
+north or upper side. Another party found at the foot of
+the southern hills, about four miles from the Missouri, a
+fine bold spring, which in this country is so rare that since
+we left the Mandans we have found only one of a similar
+kind, and that was under the bluffs on the south side of the
+Missouri, at some distance from it, and about five miles below
+the Yellowstone: with this exception all the small fountains
+of which we have met a number are impregnated with
+the salts which are so abundant here, and with which the
+Missouri is itself most probably tainted, though to us who
+have been so much accustomed to it, the taste is not perceptible.
+Among the game to-day we observed two large owls,
+with remarkably long feathers resembling ears on the sides
+of the head, which we presume are the hooting owls, though
+they are larger and their colours are brighter than those
+common in the United States.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 21. The morning being very fine we were able
+to employ the rope and made twenty miles to our camp on
+the north. The shores of the river are abrupt, bold and
+composed of a black and yellow clay, the bars being formed
+of black mud, and a small proportion of fine sand; the current
+strong. In its course the Missouri makes a sudden
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_223" id="Pg_223" title="Pg_223">[223]</a></span>and extensive bend towards the south, to receive the waters
+of the Muscleshell. The neck of land thus formed, though
+itself high is lower than the surrounding country, and makes
+a waving valley extending for a great distance to the northward,
+with a fertile soil which, though without wood, produces
+a fine turf of low grass, some herbs and vast quantities
+of prickly pear. The country on the south is high,
+broken, and crowned with some pine and dwarf cedar; the
+leaf of this pine is longer than that of the common pitch or
+red pine of Virginia, the cone is longer and narrower, the
+imbrications wider and thicker, and the whole frequently
+covered with rosin. During the whole day the bends of the
+river are short and sudden; and the points covered with
+some cottonwood, large or broad leaved willow, and a small
+quantity of redwood; the undergrowth consisting of wild
+roses, and the bushes of the small honeysuckle.</p>
+
+<p>The mineral appearances on the river are as usual. We
+do not find the grouse or prairie hen so abundant as below,
+and think it probable that they retire from the river to the
+plains during this season.</p>
+
+<p>The wind had been moderate during the fore part of the
+day, but continued to rise towards evening, and about dark
+veered to northeast, and blew a storm all night. We had
+encamped on a bar on the north, opposite the lower point
+of an island, which from this circumstance we called Windy
+island; but we were so annoyed by clouds of dust and sand
+that we could neither eat nor sleep, and were forced to remove
+our camp at eight o'clock to the foot of an adjoining
+hill, which shielded us in some degree from the wind: we
+procured elk, deer, and buffaloe.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 22. The wind blew so violently that it was
+deemed prudent to wait till it had abated, so that we did
+not leave the camp till ten o'clock, when we proceeded
+principally by the towline. We passed Windy island which
+is about three quarters of a mile in length: and five and a
+half miles above it a large island in a bend to the north:
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_224" id="Pg_224" title="Pg_224">[224]</a></span>three miles beyond this we came to the entrance of a creek
+twenty yards wide, though with little water, which we called
+Grouse creek, from observing near its mouth a quantity
+of the prairie hen with pointed tails, the first we have seen
+in such numbers for several days: the low grounds are
+somewhat wider than usual and apparently fertile, though
+the short and scanty grass on the hills does not indicate
+much richness of soil. The country around is not so broken
+as that of yesterday, but is still waving, the southern
+hills possessing more pine than usual, and some appearing
+on the northern hills, which are accompanied by the usual
+salt and mineral appearances.</p>
+
+<p>The river continues about two hundred and fifty yards
+wide, with fewer sandbars, and the current more gentle
+and regular. Game is no longer in such abundance, since
+leaving the Muscleshell. We have caught very few fish on
+this side of the Mandans, and these were the white catfish
+of two to five pounds. We killed a deer and a bear: we
+have not seen in this quarter the black bear, common in the
+United States and on the lower parts of the Missouri, nor
+have we discerned any of their tracks, which may easily be
+distinguished by the shortness of its talons from the brown,
+grizzly, or white bear, all of which seem to be of the same
+family, which assumes those colours at different seasons of
+the year. We halted earlier than usual, and encamped on
+the north, in a point of woods, at the distance of sixteen
+and a half miles.</p>
+
+
+<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p>
+
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_225" id="Pg_225" title="Pg_225">[225]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<!-- ROUTE MAP -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173"
+        alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The party continue their route&mdash;description of Judith river&mdash;Indian mode of
+taking the buffaloe&mdash;Slaughter river described&mdash;phenomena of nature&mdash;of
+walls on the banks of the Missouri&mdash;the party encamp on the banks of the river
+to ascertain which of the streams constitute the Missouri&mdash;captain Lewis
+leaves the party to explore the northern fork, and captain Clarke explores
+the southern&mdash;the surrounding country described in the route of captain Lewis&mdash;narrow
+escape of one of his party.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>Thursday 23. Last night the frost was severe, and this
+morning the ice appeared along the edges of the river, and
+the water froze on our oars. At the distance of a mile we
+passed the entrance of a creek on the north, which we named
+Teapot creek; it is fifteen yards wide, and although it
+has running water at a small distance from its mouth, yet it
+discharges none into the Missouri, resembling, we believe,
+most of the creeks in this hilly country, the waters of which
+are absorbed by the thirsty soil near the river. They indeed
+afford but little water in any part, and even that is so
+strongly tainted with salts that it is unfit for use, though
+all the wild animals are very fond of it. On experiment it
+was found to be moderately purgative, but painful to the intestines
+in its operation. This creek seems to come from a
+range of low hills, which run from east to west for seventy
+miles, and have their eastern extremity thirty miles to the
+north of Teapot creek. Just above its entrance is a large
+assemblage of the burrowing squirrels on the north side of
+the river. At nine miles we reached the upper point of an
+island in a bend on the south, and opposite the centre of the
+island, a small dry creek on the north. Half a mile further
+a small creek falls in on the same side; and six and a half
+miles beyond this another on the south. At four and a half
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_226" id="Pg_226" title="Pg_226">[226]</a></span>we passed a small island in a deep bend to the north, and on
+the same side in a deep northeastern bend of the river another
+small island. None of these creeks however possessed
+any water, and at the entrances of the islands, the two first
+are covered with tall cottonwood timber, and the last with
+willows only. The river has become more rapid, the country
+much the same as yesterday, except that there is rather
+more rocks on the face of the hills, and some small spruce pine
+appears among the pitch. The wild roses are very abundant
+and now in bloom; they differ from those of the United States
+only in having the leaves and the bush itself of a somewhat
+smaller size. We find the musquitoes troublesome, notwithstanding
+the coolness of the morning. The buffaloe is
+scarce to-day, but the elk, deer, and antelope, are very
+numerous. The geese begin to lose the feathers of the
+wings, and are unable to fly. We saw five bears, one of
+which we wounded, but in swimming from us across the
+river, he become entangled in some driftwood and sank.
+We formed our camp on the north opposite to a hill and a
+point of wood in a bend to the south, having made twenty-seven
+miles.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 24. The water in the kettles froze one eighth of
+an inch during the night; the ice appears along the margin
+of the river, and the cottonwood trees which have lost nearly
+all their leaves by the frost, are putting forth other buds.
+We proceeded with the line principally till about nine o'clock,
+when a fine breeze sprung up from the S.E. and enabled us
+to sail very well, notwithstanding the rapidity of the current.
+At one mile and a half is a large creek thirty yards
+wide, and containing some water which it empties on the
+north side, over a gravelly bed, intermixed with some stone.
+A man who was sent up to explore the country returned in
+the evening, after having gone ten miles directly towards
+the ridge of mountains to the north, which is the source
+of this as well as of Teapot creek. The air of these highlands
+is so pure, that objects appear much nearer than
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_227" id="Pg_227" title="Pg_227">[227]</a></span>they really are, so that although our man went ten miles
+without thinking himself by any means half way to the
+mountains, they do not from the river appear more than
+fifteen miles distant; this stream we called Northmountain
+creek. Two and a half miles higher is a creek on the
+south which is fifteen yards wide, but without any water,
+and to which we gave the name of Littledog creek, from
+a village of burrowing squirrels opposite to its entrance,
+that being the name given by the French watermen to those
+animals. Three miles from this a small creek enters on
+the north, five beyond which is an island a quarter of a
+mile in length, and two miles further a small river: this
+falls in on the south, is forty yards wide, and discharges a
+handsome stream of water; its bed rocky with gravel and
+sand, and the banks high: we called it Southmountain
+creek, as from its direction it seemed to rise in a range of
+mountains about fifty or sixty miles to the S.W. of its entrance.
+The low grounds are narrow and without timber;
+the country high and broken; a large portion of black rock,
+and brown sandy rock appears in the face of the hills, the
+tops of which are covered with scattered pine, spruce and
+dwarf cedar: the soil is generally poor, sandy near the tops
+of the hills, and nowhere producing much grass, the low
+grounds being covered with little else than the hysop,
+or southern wood, and the pulpy-leafed thorn. Game is
+more scarce, particularly beaver, of which we have seen but
+few for several days, and the abundance or scarcity of which
+seems to depend on the greater or less quantity of timber.
+At twenty-four and a half miles we reached a point of woodland
+on the south, where we observed that the trees had no
+leaves, and encamped for the night. The high country
+through which we have passed for some days, and where
+we now are, we suppose to be a continuation of what the
+French traders called the Cote Noire or Black hills. The
+country thus denominated consists of high broken irregular
+hills and short chains of mountains; sometimes one hundred
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_228" id="Pg_228" title="Pg_228">[228]</a></span>and twenty miles in width, sometimes narrower, but always
+much higher than the country on either side. They commence
+about the head of the Kanzas, where they diverge;
+the first ridge going westward, along the northern shore of
+the Arkansaw; the second approaches the Rock mountains
+obliquely in a course a little to the W. of N.W. and after
+passing the Platte above its forks, and intersecting the Yellowstone
+near the Bigbend, crosses the Missouri at this
+place, and probably swell the country as far as the Saskashawan,
+though as they are represented much smaller here
+than to the south, they may not reach that river.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, 25th. Two canoes which were left behind
+yesterday to bring on the game, did not join us till eight
+o'clock this morning, when we set out with the towline, the
+use of which the banks permitted. The wind was, however,
+ahead, the current strong, particularly round the
+points against which it happened to set, and the gullies
+from the hills having brought down quantities of stone,
+those projected into the river, forming barriers for forty or
+fifty feet round, which it was very difficult to pass. At the
+distance of two and three quarter miles we passed a small
+island in a deep bend on the south, and on the same side a
+creek twenty yards wide, but with no running water.
+About a mile further is an island between two and three
+miles in length, separated from the northern shore by a
+narrow channel, in which is a sand island at the distance of
+half a mile from its lower extremity. To this large island
+we gave the name of Teapot island; two miles above which
+is an island a mile long, and situated on the south. At three
+and a half miles is another small island, and one mile beyond
+it a second three quarters of a mile in length, on the
+north side. In the middle of the river two miles above this
+is an island with no timber, and of the same extent as this
+last. The country on each side is high, broken, and rocky;
+the rock being either a soft brown sandstone, covered
+with a thin stratum of limestone, or else a hard black rugged
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_229" id="Pg_229" title="Pg_229">[229]</a></span>granite, both usually in horizontal stratas, and the
+sandrock overlaying the other. Salts and quartz as well
+as some coal and pumicestone still appear: the bars of the
+river are composed principally of gravel; the river low
+grounds are narrow, and afford scarcely any timber; nor
+is there much pine on the hills. The buffaloe have now become
+scarce: we saw a polecat this evening, which was the
+first for several days: in the course of the day we also saw
+several herds of the big-horned animals among the steep
+cliffs on the north, and killed several of them. At the distance
+of eighteen miles we encamped on the south, and the
+next morning,</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, 26th, proceeded on at an early hour by means
+of the towline, using our oars merely in passing the river,
+to take advantage of the best banks. There are now scarcely
+any low grounds on the river, the hills being high and
+in many places pressing on both sides to the verge of the
+water. The black rock has given place to a very soft sandstone,
+which seems to be washed away fast by the river, and
+being thrown into the river renders its navigation more difficult
+than it was yesterday: above this sandstone, and towards
+the summits of the hills, a hard freestone of a yellowish
+brown colour shows itself in several stratas of unequal
+thickness, frequently overlaid or incrusted by a thin
+stratum of limestone, which seems to be formed of concreted
+shells. At eight and a quarter miles we came to the mouth
+of a creek on the north, thirty yards wide, with some running
+water and a rocky bed: we called it Windsor creek,
+after one of the party. Four and three quarter miles beyond
+this we came to another creek in a bend to the north,
+which is twenty yards wide, with a handsome little stream
+of water: there is however no timber on either side of the
+river, except a few pines on the hills. Here we saw for
+the first time since we left the Mandans several soft shelled
+turtles, though this may be owing rather to the season
+of the year than to any scarcity of the animal. It was here
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_230" id="Pg_230" title="Pg_230">[230]</a></span>that after ascending the highest summits of the hills on the
+north side of the river, that captain Lewis first caught a distant
+view of the Rock mountains, the object of all our hopes,
+and the reward of all our ambition. On both sides of the
+river and at no great distance from it, the mountains followed
+its course: above these, at the distance of fifty miles
+from us, an irregular range of mountains spread themselves
+from west to northwest from his position. To the north of
+these a few elevated points, the most remarkable of which
+bore north 65&deg; west, appeared above the horizon, and as the
+sun shone on the snows of their summits he obtained a clear
+and satisfactory view of those mountains which close on
+the Missouri the passage to the Pacific. Four and a half
+miles beyond this creek we came to the upper point of a
+small sand island. At the distance of five miles between
+high bluffs, we passed a very difficult rapid, reaching quite
+across the river, where the water is deep, the channel narrow,
+and gravel obstructing it on each side: we had great
+difficulty in ascending it, although we used both the rope
+and the pole, and doubled the crews: this is the most considerable
+rapid on the Missouri, and in fact the only place
+where there is a sudden descent: as we were labouring over
+them, a female elk with its fawn swam down through the
+waves, which ran very high, and obtained for the place
+the name of the Elk Rapids. Just above them is a small
+low ground of cottonwood trees, where, at twenty-two and
+a quarter miles we fixed our encampment, and were joined
+by captain Lewis, who had been on the hills during the afternoon.</p>
+
+<p>The country has now become desert and barren: the
+appearances of coal, burnt earth, pumicestone, salts, and
+quartz, continue as yesterday: but there is no timber except
+the thinly scattered pine and spruce on the summits of
+the hills, or along the sides. The only animals we have
+observed are the elk, the bighorn, and the hare, common
+in this country. In the plain where we lie are two Indian
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_231" id="Pg_231" title="Pg_231">[231]</a></span>cabins made of sticks, and during the last few days we have
+passed several others in the points of timber on the river.</p>
+
+<p>Monday, 27. The wind was so high that we did not
+start till ten o'clock, and even then were obliged to use the
+line during the greater part of the day. The river has become
+very rapid with a very perceptible descent: its general
+width is about two hundred yards: the shoals too are
+more frequent, and the rocky points at the mouth of the
+gullies more troublesome to pass: great quantities of this
+stone lie in the river and on its banks, and seem to have fallen
+down as the rain washed away the clay and sand in
+which they were imbedded. The water is bordered by
+high rugged bluffs, composed of irregular but horizontal
+stratas of yellow and brown or black clay, brown and
+yellowish white sand, soft yellowish white sandstone: hard
+dark brown freestone; and also large round kidney formed
+irregular separate masses of a hard black ironstone, imbedded
+in the clay and sand; some coal or carbonated wood
+also makes its appearance in the cliffs, as do also its usual
+attendants the pumicestone and burnt earth. The salts and
+quartz are less abundant, and generally speaking the country
+is if possible more rugged and barren than that we passed
+yesterday; the only growth of the hills being a few pine,
+spruce, and dwarf cedar, interspersed with an occasional
+contrast once in the course of some miles, of several acres
+of level ground, which supply a scanty subsistence for a
+few little cottonwood trees.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after setting out we passed a small untimbered
+island on the south: at about seven miles we reached a considerable
+bend which the river makes towards the southeast,
+and in the evening, after making twelve and a half
+miles, encamped on the south near two dead cottonwood
+trees, the only timber for fuel which we could discover in
+the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday, 28. The weather was dark and cloudy; the
+air smoky, and there fell a few drops of rain. At ten o'clock
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_232" id="Pg_232" title="Pg_232">[232]</a></span>we had again a slight sprinkling of rain, attended with distant
+thunder, which is the first we have heard since leaving
+the Mandans. We employed the line generally, with the
+addition of the pole at the ripples and rocky points, which
+we find more numerous and troublesome than those we passed
+yesterday. The water is very rapid round these points,
+and we are sometimes obliged to steer the canoes through
+the points of sharp rocks rising a few inches above the surface
+of the water, and so near to each other that if our
+ropes give way the force of the current drives the sides of
+the canoe against them, and must inevitably upset them or
+dash them to pieces. These cords are very slender, being
+almost all made of elkskin, and much worn and rotted by
+exposure to the weather: several times they gave way, but
+fortunately always in places where there was room for the
+canoe to turn without striking the rock; yet with all our
+precautions it was with infinite risk and labour that we passed
+these points. An Indian pole for building floated down
+the river, and was worn at one end as if dragged along the
+ground in travelling; several other articles were also brought
+down by the current, which indicate that the Indians are
+probably at no great distance above us, and judging from a
+football which resembles those used by the Minnetarees
+near the Mandans, we conjecture that they must be a band
+of the Minnetarees of fort de Prairie. The appearance of
+the river and the surrounding country continued as usual,
+till towards evening, at about fifteen miles, we reached a
+large creek on the north thirty-five yards wide, discharging
+some water, and named after one of our men Thompson's
+creek. Here the country assumed a totally different
+aspect; the hills retired on both sides from the river, which
+now spreads to more than three times its former size, and
+is filled with a number of small handsome islands covered
+with cottonwood. The low grounds on the river are again
+wide, fertile, and enriched with trees; those on the north
+are particularly wide, the hills being comparatively low and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_233" id="Pg_233" title="Pg_233">[233]</a></span>opening into three large vallies, which extend themselves
+for a considerable distance towards the north: these appearances
+of vegetation are delightful after the dreary hills
+over which we have passed, and we have now to congratulate
+ourselves at having escaped from the last ridges of the
+Black mountains. On leaving Thompson's creek we passed
+two small islands, and at twenty-three miles distance
+encamped among some timber on the north, opposite to
+a small creek, which we named Bull creek. The bighorn
+is in great quantities, and must bring forth their young
+at a very early season, as they are now half grown. One of
+the party saw a large bear also, but being at a distance from
+the river, and having no timber to conceal him, he would
+not venture to fire.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday, 29. Last night we were alarmed by a new
+sort of enemy. A buffaloe swam over from the opposite
+side and to the spot where lay one of our canoes, over
+which he clambered to the shore: then taking fright he ran
+full speed up the bank towards our fires, and passed within
+eighteen inches of the heads of some of the men, before the
+sentinel could make him change his course: still more alarmed
+he ran down between four fires and within a few inches
+of the heads of the second row of the men, and would have
+broken into our lodge if the barking of the dog had not
+stopped him. He suddenly turned to the right and was out
+of sight in a moment, leaving us all in confusion, every one
+seizing his rifle and inquiring the cause of the alarm. On
+learning what had happened, we had to rejoice at suffering no
+more injury than the damage to some guns which were in
+the canoe which the buffaloe crossed.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning early we left our camp, and proceeded
+as usual by the cord. We passed an island and two sandbars,
+and at the distance of two and a half miles we came to a
+handsome river which discharges itself on the south, and
+which we ascended to the distance of a mile and a half:
+we called it Judith's river: it rises in the Rock mountains
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_234" id="Pg_234" title="Pg_234">[234]</a></span>in about the same place with the Muscleshell and near the
+Yellowstone river. Its entrance is one hundred yards wide
+from one bank to the other, the water occupying about
+seventy-five yards, and in greater quantity than that of the
+Muscleshell river, and though more rapid equally navigable,
+there being no stones or rocks in the bed, which is composed
+entirely of gravel and mud with some sand: the water
+too is clearer than any which we have yet seen; and the low
+grounds, as far as we could discern, wider and more woody
+than those of the Missouri: along its banks we observed
+some box-alder intermixed with the cottonwood and the
+willow; the undergrowth consisting of rosebushes, honeysuckle,
+and a little red willow. There was a great abundance
+of the argalea or bighorned animals in the high country
+through which it passes, and a great number of the beaver
+in its waters: just above the entrance of it we saw the
+fires of one hundred and twenty-six lodges, which appeared
+to have been deserted about twelve or fifteen days, and on
+the other side of the Missouri a large encampment, apparently
+made by the same nation. On examining some moccasins
+which we found there, our Indian woman said that
+they did not belong to her own nation the Snake Indians,
+but she thought that they indicated a tribe on this side of
+the Rocky mountain, and to the north of the Missouri; indeed
+it is probable that these are the Minnetarees of fort
+de Prairie. At the distance of six and a half miles the
+hills again approach the brink of the river, and the stones
+and rocks washed down from them form a very bad rapid,
+with rocks and ripples more numerous and difficult than
+those we passed on the 27th and 28th; here the same scene
+was renewed, and we had again to struggle and labour to
+preserve our small craft from being lost. Near this spot
+are a few trees of the ash, the first we have seen for a great
+distance, and from which we named the place Ash Rapids.
+On these hills there is but little timber, but the salts, coal,
+and other mineral appearances continue. On the north we
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_235" id="Pg_235" title="Pg_235">[235]</a></span>passed a precipice about one hundred and twenty feet high,
+under which lay scattered the fragments of at least one hundred
+carcases of buffaloes, although the water which had
+washed away the lower part of the hill must have carried
+off many of the dead. These buffaloe had been chased
+down the precipice in a way very common on the Missouri,
+and by which vast herds are destroyed in a moment. The
+mode of hunting is to select one of the most active and fleet
+young men, who is disguised by a buffaloe skin round his
+body; the skin of the head with the ears and horns fastened
+on his own head in such a way as to deceive the buffaloe:
+thus dressed, he fixes himself at a convenient distant between
+a herd of buffaloe and any of the river precipices,
+which sometimes extend for some miles. His companions
+in the meantime get in the rear and side of the herd, and
+at a given signal show themselves, and advance towards the
+buffaloe: they instantly take the alarm, and finding the hunters
+beside them, they run towards the disguised Indian or
+decoy, who leads them on at full speed toward the river,
+when suddenly securing himself in some crevice of the cliff
+which he had previously fixed on, the herd is left on the
+brink of the precipice: it is then in vain for the foremost
+to retreat or even to stop; they are pressed on by the hindmost
+rank, who seeing no danger but from the hunters,
+goad on those before them till the whole are precipitated
+and the shore is strewn with their dead bodies. Sometimes
+in this perilous seduction the Indian is himself either trodden
+under root by the rapid movements of the buffaloe, or
+missing his footing in the cliff is urged down the precipice
+by the falling herd. The Indians then select as much meat
+as they wish, and the rest is abandoned to the wolves, and
+create a most dreadful stench. The wolves who had been
+feasting on these carcases were very fat, and so gentle that
+one of them was killed with an esponton. Above this place
+we came to for dinner at the distance of seventeen miles,
+opposite to a bold running river of twenty yards wide, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_236" id="Pg_236" title="Pg_236">[236]</a></span>falling in on the south. From the objects we had just passed
+we called this stream Slaughter river. Its low grounds
+are narrow, and contain scarcely any timber. Soon after
+landing it began to blow and rain, and as there was no prospect
+of getting wood for fuel farther on, we fixed our camp
+on the north, three quarters of a mile above Slaughter river.
+After the labours of the day we gave to each man a dram,
+and such was the effect of long abstinence from spirituous
+liquors, that from the small quantity of half a gill of rum,
+several of the men were considerably affected by it, and all
+very much exhilirated. Our game to-day consisted of an
+elk and two beaver.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday, 30. The rain which commenced last evening
+continued with little intermission till eleven this morning,
+when the high wind which accompanied it having abated, we
+set out. More rain has now fallen than we have had since the
+1st of September last, and many circumstances indicate our
+approach to a climate differing considerably from that of the
+country through which we have been passing: the air of the
+open country is astonishingly dry and pure. Observing that the
+case of our sextant, though perfectly seasoned, shrank and
+the joints opened, we tried several experiments, by which
+it appeared that a tablespoon full of water exposed in a
+saucer to the air would evaporate in thirty-six hours, when
+the mercury did not stand higher than the temperate point
+at the greatest heat of the day. The river, notwithstanding
+the rain, is much clearer than it was a few days past; but
+we advance with great labour and difficulty; the rapid current,
+the ripples and rocky points rendering the navigation
+more embarrassing than even that of yesterday, in addition
+to which the banks are now so slippery after the rain, that
+the men who draw the canoes can scarcely walk, and the
+earth and stone constantly falling down the high bluffs
+make it dangerous to pass under them; still however we are
+obliged to make use of the cord, as the wind is strong
+ahead, the current too rapid for oars, and too deep for the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_237" id="Pg_237" title="Pg_237">[237]</a></span>pole. In this way we passed at the distance of five and a
+half miles a small rivulet in a bend on the north, two miles
+further an island on the same side, half a mile beyond which
+came to a grove of trees at the entrance of a run in a bend
+to the south, and encamped for the night on the northern
+shore. The eight miles which we made to-day cost us much
+trouble. The air was cold and rendered more disagreeable
+by the rain, which fell in several slight showers in the
+course of the day; our cords too broke several times, but
+fortunately without injury to the boats. On ascending the
+hills near the river, one of the party found that there was
+snow mixed with the rain on the heights: a little back of
+these the country becomes perfectly level on both sides of the
+river. There is now no timber on the hills, and only a few scattering
+cottonwood, ash, box-alder, and willows, along the water.
+In the course of the day we passed several encampments
+of Indians, the most recent of which seemed to have been
+evacuated about five weeks since, and from the several apparent
+dates we supposed that they were made by a band of
+about one hundred lodges who were travelling slowly up the
+river. Although no part of the Missouri from the Minnetarees
+to this place exhibit signs of permanent settlements, yet none
+seem exempt from the transient visits of hunting parties.
+We know that the Minnetarees of the Missouri extend their
+excursions on the south side of the river, as high as the
+Yellowstone; and the Assiniboins visit the northern side,
+most probably as high as Porcupine river. All the lodges
+between that place and the Rocky mountains we supposed
+to belong to the Minnetarees of fort de Prairie, who live on
+the south fork of the Saskashawan.</p>
+
+<p>Friday, 31. We proceeded in two periogues, leaving the
+canoes to bring on the meat of two buffaloes killed last evening.
+Soon after we set off it began to rain, and though it
+ceased at noon, the weather continued cloudy during the
+rest of the day. The obstructions of yesterday still remain
+and fatigue the men excessively: the banks are so slippery
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_238" id="Pg_238" title="Pg_238">[238]</a></span>in some places and the mud so adhesive that they are unable
+to wear their moccasins; one fourth of the time they are
+obliged to be up to their armpits in the cold water, and
+sometimes walk for several yards over the sharp fragments
+of rocks which have fallen from the hills: all this added to
+the burden of dragging the heavy canoes is very painful,
+yet the men bear it with great patience and good humour.
+Once the rope of one of the periogues, the only one we had
+made of hemp, broke short, and the periogue swung and just
+touched a point of rock which almost overset her. At nine
+miles we came to a high wall of black rock rising from the
+water's edge on the south, above the cliffs of the river: this
+continued about a quarter of a mile, and was succeeded by a
+high open plain, till three miles further a second wall two
+hundred feet high rose on the same side. Three miles further
+a wall of the same kind about two hundred feet high
+and twelve in thickness, appeared to the north: these hills
+and river cliffs exhibit a most extraordinary and romantic
+appearance: they rise in most places nearly perpendicular
+from the water, to the height of between two and three hundred
+feet, and are formed of very white sandstone, so soft
+as to yield readily to the impression of water, in the upper
+part of which lie imbedded two or three thin horizontal
+stratas of white freestone insensible to the rain, and on the
+top is a dark rich loam, which forms a gradually ascending
+plain, from a mile to a mile and a half in extent, when
+the hills again rise abruptly to the height of about three
+hundred feet more. In trickling down the cliffs, the water
+has worn the soft sandstone into a thousand grotesque
+figures, among which with a little fancy may be discerned
+elegant ranges of freestone buildings, with columns variously
+sculptured, and supporting long and elegant galleries,
+while the parapets are adorned with statuary: on a nearer
+approach they represent every form of elegant ruins; columns,
+some with pedestals and capitals entire, others mutilated
+and prostrate, and some rising pyramidally over each
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_239" id="Pg_239" title="Pg_239">[239]</a></span>other till they terminate in a sharp point. These are varied
+by niches, alcoves, and the customary appearances of
+desolated magnificence: the allusion is increased by the
+number of martins, who have built their globular nests in
+the niches and hover over these columns; as in our country
+they are accustomed to frequent large stone structures. As
+we advance there seems no end to the visionary enchantment
+which surrounds us. In the midst of this fantastic
+scenery are vast ranges of walls, which seem the productions
+of art, so regular is the workmanship: they rise perpendicularly
+from the river, sometimes to the height of
+one hundred feet, varying in thickness from one to twelve
+feet, being equally broad at the top as below. The stones
+of which they are formed are black, thick, and durable, and
+composed of a large portion of earth, intermixed and cemented
+with a small quantity of sand, and a considerable proportion
+of talk or quartz. These stones are almost invariably
+regular parallelipeds of unequal sizes in the wall, but
+equally deep, and laid regularly in ranges over each other
+like bricks, each breaking and covering the interstice of the
+two on which it rests: but though the perpendicular interstice
+be destroyed, the horizontal one extends entirely
+through the whole work: the stones too are proportioned to
+the thickness of the wall in which they are employed, being
+largest in the thickest walls. The thinner walls are composed
+of a single depth of the paralleliped, while the thicker
+ones consist of two or more depths: these walls pass the
+river at several places, rising from the water's edge much
+above the sandstone bluffs which they seem to penetrate;
+thence they cross in a straight line on either side of the
+river, the plains over which they tower to the height of
+from ten to seventy feet, until they lose themselves in the
+second range of hills: sometimes they run parallel in several
+ranges near to each other, sometimes intersect each other
+at right angles, and have the appearance of walls of ancient
+houses or gardens.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_240" id="Pg_240" title="Pg_240">[240]</a></span>The face of some of these river hills, is composed of
+very excellent freestone of a light yellowish brown colour,
+and among the cliffs we found a species of pine which we
+had not yet seen, and differing from the Virginia pitchpine
+in having a shorter leaf, and a longer and more pointed cone.
+The coal appears only in small quantities, as do the burnt
+earth and pumicestone: the mineral salts have abated.
+Among the animals are a great number of the bighorn, a
+few buffaloe and elk, and some mule-deer, but none of the
+common deer nor any antelopes. We saw but could not
+procure a beautiful fox, of a colour varied with orange, yellow,
+white, and black, rather smaller than the common fox
+of this country, and about the same size as the red fox of the
+United States.</p>
+
+<p>The river to-day has been from about one hundred and
+fifty to two hundred and fifty yards wide, with but little timber.
+At the distance of two miles and a half from the last
+stone wall, is a stream on the north side, twenty-eight
+yards in width, and with some running water. We encamped
+just above its mouth having made eighteen miles.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, June 1. The weather was cloudy with a few
+drops of rain. As we proceeded by the aid of our cord we
+found the river cliffs and bluffs not so high as yesterday, and
+the country more level. The timber too is in greater abundance
+on the river, though there is no wood on the high
+ground; coal however appears in the bluffs. The river is
+from two hundred to two hundred and fifty feet wide, the
+current more gentle, the water becoming still clearer and
+fewer rocky points and shoals than we met yesterday, though
+those which we did encounter were equally difficult to pass.
+Game is by no means in such plenty as below; all that we
+obtained were one bighorn, and a mule-deer though we saw
+in the plains a quantity of buffaloe, particularly near a small
+lake about eight miles from the river to the south.
+Notwithstanding the wind was ahead all day, we dragged the
+canoes along the distance of twenty-three miles. At fourteen
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_241" id="Pg_241" title="Pg_241">[241]</a></span>and a quarter miles, we came to a small island opposite a
+bend of the river to the north: two and a half miles to
+the upper point of a small island on the north; five miles to
+another island on the south side and opposite to a bluff. In
+the next two miles we passed an island on the south, a second
+beyond it on the north, and reached near a high bluff
+on the north a third on which we encamped. In the plains
+near the river are the chokecherry, yellow and red currant-bushes,
+as well as the wild rose and prickly pear, both of
+which are now in bloom. From the tops of the river hills,
+which are lower than usual, we enjoyed a delightful view
+of the rich fertile plains on both sides, in many places
+extending from the river cliffs to a great distance back. In
+these plains we meet occasionally large banks of pure sand,
+which were driven apparently by the southwest winds, and
+there deposited. The plains are more fertile some distance
+from the river than near its banks, where the surface
+of the earth is very generally strewed with small pebbles,
+which appear to be smoothed and worn by the agitation of
+the waters with which they were no doubt once covered.
+A mountain or part of the North mountain approaches the
+river within eight or ten miles, bearing north from our encampment
+of last evening; and this morning a range of high
+mountains bearing S.W. from us and apparently running to
+the westward, are seen at a great distance covered with
+snow. In the evening we had a little more rain.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 2. The wind blew violently last night, and a slight
+shower of rain fell, but this morning was fair. We set out at
+an early hour, and although the wind was ahead by means
+of the cord went on much better than for the last two days,
+as the banks were well calculated for towing. The current
+of the river is strong but regular, its timber increases in
+quantity, the low grounds become more level and extensive,
+and the bluffs on the river are lower than usual. In the
+course of the day we had a small shower of rain, which lasted
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_242" id="Pg_242" title="Pg_242">[242]</a></span>a few minutes only. As the game is very abundant we
+think it necessary to begin a collection of hides for the purpose
+of making a leathern boat, which we intend constructing
+shortly. The hunters who were out the greater part of the
+day brought in six elk, two buffaloe, two mule-deer and a
+bear. This last animal had nearly cost us the lives of two
+of our hunters who were together when he attacked
+them: one of them narrowly escaped being caught, and the
+other after running a considerable distance, concealed himself
+in some thick bushes, and while the bear was in quick
+pursuit of his hiding place, his companion came up and fortunately
+shot the animal through the head.</p>
+
+<p>At six and at half miles we reached an island on the
+northern side; one mile and a quarter thence is a timbered
+low ground on the south: and in the next two and three quarter
+miles we passed three small islands, and came to a dark
+bluff on the south: within the following mile are two small
+islands on the same side. At three and a quarter miles we
+reached the lower part of a much larger island near a northern
+point, and as we coasted along its side, within two miles
+passed a smaller island, and half a mile above reached the
+head of another. All these islands are small, and most of
+them contain some timber. Three quarters of a mile beyond
+the last, and at the distance of eighteen miles from our
+encampment, we came to for the night in a handsome low
+cottonwood plain on the south, where we remained for the
+purpose of making some celestial observations during the
+night, and of examining in the morning a large river which
+comes in opposite to us. Accordingly at an early hour,</p>
+
+<p>Monday, 3d, we crossed and fixed our camp in the point,
+formed by the junction of the river with the Missouri. It
+now became an interesting question which of these two
+streams is what the Minnetarees call Ahmateahza or the
+Missouri, which they described as approaching very near
+to the Columbia. On our right decision much of the fate of the
+expedition depends; since if after ascending to the Rocky
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_243" id="Pg_243" title="Pg_243">[243]</a></span>mountains or beyond them, we should find that the river
+we were following did not come near the Columbia, and be
+obliged to return; we should not only lose the travelling
+season, two months of which had already elapsed, but probably
+dishearten the men so much as to induce them either
+to abandon the enterprise, or yield us a cold obedience instead
+of the warm and zealous support which they had
+hitherto afforded us. We determined, therefore, to examine
+well before we decided on our future course; and for
+this purpose despatched two canoes with three men up each
+of the streams with orders to ascertain the width, depth,
+and rapidity of the current, so as to judge of their comparative
+bodies of water. At the same time parties were sent
+out by land to penetrate the country, and discover from the
+rising grounds, if possible, the distant bearings of the two
+rivers; and all were directed to return towards evening.
+While they were gone we ascended together the high
+grounds in the fork of these two rivers, whence we had a
+very extensive prospect of the surrounding country: on
+every side it was spread into one vast plain covered with
+verdure, in which innumerable herds of buffaloe were
+roaming, attended by their enemies the wolves: some flocks
+of elk also were seen, and the solitary antelopes were scattered
+with their young over the face of the plain. To the
+south was a range of lofty mountains, which we supposed
+to be a continuation of the South mountain, stretching themselves
+from southeast to northwest, and terminating abruptly
+about southwest from us. These were partially covered
+with snow; but at a great distance behind them was a
+more lofty ridge completely covered with snow, which
+seemed to follow the same direction as the first, reaching
+from west to the north of northwest, where their snowy
+tops were blended with the horizon. The direction of the
+rivers could not however be long distinguished, as they were
+soon lost in the extent of the plain. On our return we continued
+our examination; the width of the north branch is
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_244" id="Pg_244" title="Pg_244">[244]</a></span>two hundred yards, that of the south is three hundred and
+seventy-two. The north, although narrower and with a
+gentler current, is deeper than the south: its waters too are
+of the same whitish brown colour, thickness, and turbidness:
+they run in the same boiling and rolling manner which has
+uniformly characterized the Missouri; and its bed is composed
+of some gravel, but principally mud. The south fork
+is deeper, but its waters are perfectly transparent: its current
+is rapid, but the surface smooth and unruffled; and its
+bed too is composed of round and flat smooth stones like
+those of rivers issuing from a mountainous country. The air
+and character of the north fork so much resemble those of
+the Missouri that almost all the party believe that to be the
+true course to be pursued. We however, although we have
+given no decided opinion, are inclined to think otherwise,
+because, although this branch does give the colour and character
+to the Missouri, yet these very circumstances induce
+an opinion that it rises in and runs through an open plain
+country, since if it came from the mountains it would be
+clearer, unless, which from the position of the country is
+improbable, it passed through a vast extent of low ground
+after leaving them: we thought it probable that it did not
+even penetrate the Rocky mountains, but drew it sources from
+the open country towards the lower and middle parts of the
+Saskashawan, in a direction north of this place. What embarrasses
+us most is, that the Indians who appeared to be
+well acquainted with the geography of the country, have not
+mentioned this northern river; for "the river which scolds
+at all others," as it is termed, must be according to their
+account one of the rivers which we have passed; and if this
+north fork be the Missouri, why have they not designated
+the south branch which they must also have passed, in order
+to reach the great falls which they mention on the
+Missouri. In the evening our parties returned, after ascending
+the rivers in canoes for some distance, then continuing
+on foot, just leaving themselves time to return by
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_245" id="Pg_245" title="Pg_245">[245]</a></span>night. The north fork was less rapid, and therefore afforded
+the easiest navigation: the shallowest water of the
+north was five feet deep, that of the south six feet. At two
+and a half miles up the north fork is a small river coming in
+on the left or western side, sixty feet wide, with a bold
+current three feet in depth. The party by land had gone up
+the south fork in a straight line, somewhat north of west
+for seven miles, where they discovered that this little river
+came within one hundred yards of the south fork, and on returning
+down it found it a handsome stream, with as much
+timber as either of the larger rivers, consisting of the narrow
+and wide-leafed cottonwood, some birch and box-alder,
+amid undergrowth of willows, rosebushes, and currants: they
+also saw on this river a great number of elk and some
+beaver.</p>
+
+<p>All these accounts were however very far from deciding
+the important question of our future route, and we therefore
+determined each of us to ascend one of the rivers during
+a day and a half's march, or farther if necessary, for our
+satisfaction. Our hunters killed two buffaloe, six elk, and
+four deer to-day. Along the plains near the junction, are
+to be found the prickly pear in great quantities; the chokecherry
+is also very abundant in the river low grounds, as
+well as the ravines along the river bluffs; the yellow and red
+currants are not yet ripe; the gooseberry is beginning to
+ripen, and the wildrose which now covers all the low grounds
+near the rivers is in full bloom. The fatigues of the last few
+days have occasioned some falling off in the appearance of
+the men, who not having been able to wear moccasins, had
+their feet much bruised and mangled in passing over the
+stones and rough ground. They are however perfectly
+cheerful, and have an undiminished ardour for the expedition.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday, June 4. At the same hour this morning captain
+Lewis and captain Clarke set out to explore the two
+rivers: captain Lewis with six men crossed the north fork
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_246" id="Pg_246" title="Pg_246">[246]</a></span>near the camp, below a small island from which he took a
+course N. 30&deg; W. for four and a half miles to a commanding
+eminence. Here we observed that the North mountain,
+changing its direction parallel to the Missouri, turned towards
+the north and terminated abruptly at the distance of
+about thirty miles, the point of termination bearing N. 48&deg; E.
+The South mountain too diverges to the south, and terminates
+abruptly, its extremity bearing S. 8&deg; W. distant about
+twenty miles: to the right of, and retreating from this extremity,
+is a separate mountain at the distance of thirty-five
+miles in a direction S. 38&deg; W. which from its resemblance
+to the roof of a barn, we called the Barn mountain. The
+north fork, which is now on the left, makes a considerable
+bend to the northwest, and on its western border a range of
+hills about ten miles long, and bearing from this spot N. 60&deg; W.
+runs parallel with it: north of this range of hills is
+an elevated point of the river bluff on its south side, bearing
+N. 72&deg; W. about twelve miles from us; towards this he directed
+his course across a high, level, dry open plain; which
+in fact embraces the whole country to the foot of the mountains.
+The soil is dark, rich, and fertile, yet the grass by
+no means so luxuriant as might have been expected, for it
+is short and scarcely more than sufficient to cover the
+ground. There are vast quantities of prickly pears, and
+myriads of grasshoppers, which afford food for a species of
+curlew which is in great numbers in the plain. He then proceeded
+up the river to the point of observation they had fixed
+on; from which he went two miles N. 15&deg; W. to a bluff point
+on the north side of the river: thence his course was N. 30&deg; W.
+for two miles to the entrance of a large creek on the south.
+The part of the river along which he passed is from forty
+to sixty yards wide, the current strong, the water deep and
+turbid, the banks falling in, the salts, coal and mineral appearances
+are as usual, and in every respect, except as to
+size, this river resembles the Missouri. The low grounds
+are narrow but well supplied with wood: the bluffs are principally
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_247" id="Pg_247" title="Pg_247">[247]</a></span>of dark brown yellow, and some white clay with
+freestone in some places. From this point the river bore
+N. 20&deg; E. to a bluff on the south, at the distance of twelve
+miles: towards this he directed his course, ascending the
+hills which are about two hundred feet high, and passing
+through plains for three miles, till he found the dry ravines
+so steep and numerous that he resolved to return to the
+river and follow its banks. He reached it about four miles
+from the beginning of his course, and encamped on the
+north in a bend among some bushes which sheltered the
+party from the wind: the air was very cold, the northwest
+wind high, and the rain wet them to the skin. Besides the
+game just mentioned, he observed buffaloe, elk, wolves,
+foxes, and we got a blaireau and a weasel, and wounded a
+large brown bear, whom it was too late to pursue. Along
+the river are immense quantities of roses which are now in
+full bloom, and which make the low grounds a perfect garden.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 5. The rain fell during the greater part of
+the last night, and in the morning the weather was cloudy
+and cold, with a high northwest wind: at sunrise he proceeded
+up the river eight miles to the bluff on the left
+side, towards which he had been directing his course yesterday.
+Here he found the bed of a creek twenty-five yards
+wide at the entrance, with some timber, but no water, notwithstanding
+the rain: it is, indeed, astonishing to observe
+the vast quantities of water absorbed by the soil of the
+plains, which being opened in large crevices presents a fine
+rich loam: at the mouth of this stream (which he called
+Lark creek) the bluffs are very steep and approach the river
+so that he ascended them, and crossing the plains reached
+the river, which from the last point bore N. 50&deg; W: four miles
+from this place it extended north two miles. Here he discovered
+a lofty mountain standing alone at the distance of
+more than eighty miles in the direction of N. 30&deg; W. and
+which from its conical figure he called Tower mountain.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_248" id="Pg_248" title="Pg_248">[248]</a></span>He then proceeded on these two hills and afterwards in different
+courses six miles, when he again changed for a western
+course across a deep bend along the south side: in making
+this passage over the plains he found them like those
+of yesterday, level and beautiful, with great quantities of
+buffaloes, and some wolves, foxes, and antelopes, and intersected
+near the river by deep ravines. Here at the distance
+of from one to nine miles from the river, he met the largest
+village of barking squirrels which we had yet seen: for he
+passed a skirt of their territory for seven miles. He also
+saw near the hills a flock of the mountain cock or a large
+species of heath hen with a long pointed tail, which the
+Indians below had informed us were common among the
+Rock mountains. Having finished his course of ten miles
+west across a bend, he continued two miles N. 80&deg; W. and
+from that point discovered some lofty mountains to the
+northwest of Tower mountain and bearing N. 65&deg; W.
+at eighty or one hundred miles distance: Here he encamped
+on the north side in a handsome low ground, on which were
+several old stick lodges: there had been but little timber on
+the river in the forepart of the day, but now there is a
+greater quantity than usual. The river itself is about eighty
+yards wide, from six to ten feet deep, and has a strong steady
+current. The party had killed five elk, and a mule-deer;
+and by way of experiment roasted the burrowing squirrels,
+which they found to be well flavoured and tender.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 6. Captain Lewis was now convinced that this
+river pursued a direction too far north for our route to the
+Pacific, and therefore resolved to return; but waited till
+noon to take a meridian altitude. The clouds, however,
+which had gathered during the latter part of the night continued
+and prevented the observation: part of the men were sent
+forward to a commanding eminence, six miles S. 70&deg; W;
+from which they saw at the distance of about fifteen
+miles S. 80&deg; W. a point of the south bluff of the river, which
+thence bore northwardly. In their absence two rafts had
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_249" id="Pg_249" title="Pg_249">[249]</a></span>been prepared, and when they returned about noon, the
+party embarked: but they soon found that the rafts were so
+small and slender that the baggage was wet, and therefore
+it was necessary to abandon them, and go by land. They
+therefore crossed the plains, and at the distance of twelve
+miles came to the river, through a cold storm from the
+northeast, accompanied by showers of rain. The abruptness
+of the cliffs compelled them, after going a few miles,
+to leave the river and meet the storm in the plains. Here
+they directed their course too far northward, in consequence
+of which they did not meet the river till late at
+night, after having travelled twenty-three miles since noon,
+and halted at a little below the entrance of Lark creek.
+They had the good fortune to kill two buffaloe which supplied
+them with supper, but spent a very uncomfortable
+night without any shelter from the rain, which continued
+till morning,</p>
+
+<p>Friday 7, when at an early hour they continued down
+the river. The route was extremely unpleasant, as the wind
+was high from the N.E. accompanied with rain, which made
+the ground so slippery that they were unable to walk over
+the bluffs which they had passed on ascending the river.
+The land is the most thirsty we have ever seen; notwithstanding
+all the rain which has fallen, the earth is not wet
+for more than two inches deep, and resembles thawed ground;
+but if it requires more water to saturate it than the common
+soils, on the other hand it yields its moisture with equal difficulty.
+In passing along the side of one of these bluffs at a narrow
+pass thirty yards in length, captain Lewis slipped, and
+but for a fortunate recovery, by means of his espontoon,
+would then have been precipitated into the river over a precipice
+of about ninety feet. He had just reached a spot where by
+the assistance of his espontoon he could stand with tolerable
+safety, when he heard a voice behind him cry out, good
+God captain what shall I do? he turned instantly and found
+it was Windsor who had lost his foothold about the middle
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_250" id="Pg_250" title="Pg_250">[250]</a></span>of the narrow pass, and had slipped down to the very verge
+of the precipice where he lay on his belly, with his right arm
+and leg over the precipice, while with the other leg and arm
+he was with difficulty holding on to keep himself from being
+dashed to pieces below. His dreadful situation was instantly
+perceived by captain Lewis, who stifling his alarm, calmly
+told him that he was in no danger; that he should take
+his knife out of his belt with the right hand, and dig a hole
+in the side of the bluff to receive his right foot. With great
+presence of mind he did this, and then raised himself on his
+knees; captain Lewis then told him to take off his moccasins
+and come forward on his hands and knees, holding the knife
+in one hand and his rifle in the other. He immediately crawled
+in this way till he came to a secure spot. The men who
+had not attempted this passage, were ordered to return and
+wade the river at the foot of the bluff, where they found the
+water breast high. This adventure taught them the danger
+of crossing the slippery heights of the river; but as the
+plains were intersected by deep ravines almost as difficult
+to pass, they continued down the river, sometimes in the
+mud of the low grounds, sometimes up to their arms in the
+water, and when it became too deep to wade, they cut footholds
+with their knives in the sides of the banks. In this way
+they travelled through the rain, mud, and water, and having
+made only eighteen miles during the whole day, encamped in
+an old Indian lodge of sticks, which afforded them a dry shelter.
+Here they cooked part of six deer they had killed in
+the course of their walk, and having eaten the only morsel
+they had tasted during the whole day slept comfortably on
+some willow boughs.</p>
+
+
+<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p>
+
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_251" id="Pg_251" title="Pg_251">[251]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+<!-- ROUTE MAP -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173"
+        alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Return of captain Lewis&mdash;Account of captain Clarke's researches with his exploring
+party&mdash;Perilous situation of one of his party&mdash;Tansy river described&mdash;The
+party still believing the southern fork the Missouri, captain Lewis resolves
+to ascend it&mdash;Mode of making a place to deposit provisions, called cache&mdash;Captain
+Lewis explores the southern fork&mdash;Falls of the Missouri discovered,
+which ascertains the question&mdash;Romantic scenery of the surrounding country&mdash;Narrow
+escape of captain Lewis&mdash;The main body under captain Clarke
+approach within five miles of the falls, and prepare for making a portage over
+the rapids.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>Saturday 8. It continued to rain moderately all last night,
+and the morning was cloudy till about ten o'clock, when it
+cleared off, and became a fine day. They breakfasted about
+sunrise and then proceeded down the river in the same way
+as they had done yesterday, except that the travelling was
+somewhat better, as they had not so often to wade, though
+they passed some very dangerous bluffs. The only timber
+to be found is in the low grounds which are occasionally on
+the river, and these are the haunts of innumerable birds,
+who, when the sun began to shine, sang very delightfully.
+Among these birds they distinguished the brown thrush, robin,
+turtledove, linnet, goldfinch, the large and small blackbird,
+the wren, and some others. As they came along, the whole
+of the party were of opinion that this river was the true
+Missouri, but captain Lewis being fully persuaded that it
+was neither the main stream, nor that which it would be advisable
+to ascend, gave it the name of Maria's river. After
+travelling all day they reached the camp at five o'clock in the
+afternoon, and found captain Clarke and the party very anxious
+for their safety, as they had staid two days longer than
+had been expected, and as captain Clarke had returned at
+the appointed time, it was feared that they had met with
+some accident.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_252" id="Pg_252" title="Pg_252">[252]</a></span>Captain Clarke on setting out with five men on the 4th,
+went seven miles on a course S. 25&deg; W. to a spring; thence
+he went S. 20&deg; W. for eight miles to the river where was
+an island, from which he proceeded in a course N. 45&deg; W.
+and approached the river at the distance of three, five, and
+thirteen miles, at which place they encamped in an old Indian
+lodge made of sticks and bark. In crossing the plains they
+observed several herds of buffaloe, some muledeer, antelopes
+and wolves. The river is rapid and closely hemmed in by high
+bluffs, crowded with bars of gravel, with little timber on
+the low grounds, and none on the highlands. Near the camp
+this evening, a white bear attacked one of the men, whose
+gun happening to be wet, would not go off; he instantly made
+towards a tree, but was so closely pursued, that as he ascended
+the tree he struck the bear with his foot. The bear
+not being able to climb, waited till he should be forced to
+come down; and as the rest of the party were separated from
+him by a perpendicular cliff of rocks, which they could not
+descend, it was not in their power to give him any assistance:
+fortunately however at last the bear became frighted at their
+cries and firing, and released the man. In the afternoon it
+rained, and during the night there fell both rain and snow,
+and in the morning.</p>
+
+<p>June 5, the hills to the S.E. were covered with snow,
+and the rain continued. They proceeded on in a course N. 20&deg; W.
+near the river several miles, till at the distance of
+eleven miles they reached a ridge, from the top of which on
+the north side they could plainly discern a mountain to the S.
+and W. at a great distance covered with snow; a high ridge
+projecting from the mountains to the southeast approaches
+the river on the southeast side, forming some cliffs of dark
+hard stone. They also saw that the river ran for a great
+distance west of south, with a rapid current, from which as
+well as its continuing of the same width and depth, captain
+Clarke thought it useless to advance any further, and therefore
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_253" id="Pg_253" title="Pg_253">[253]</a></span>returned across the level plain in a direction north 30&deg;
+east, and reached at the distance of twenty miles the little
+river which is already mentioned as falling into the north
+fork, and to which they gave the name of Tansy river, from
+the great quantity of that herb growing on its banks. Here
+they dined, and then proceeded on a few miles by a place
+where the Tansy breaks through a high ridge on its north
+side and encamped.</p>
+
+<p>The next day, 6th, the weather was cold, raw and cloudy,
+with a high northeast wind. They set out early, down the
+Tansy, whose low grounds resemble precisely, except as to
+extent, those of the Missouri before it branches, containing
+a great proportion of a species of cottonwood, with a leaf
+like that of the wild cherry. After halting at twelve o'clock
+for dinner, they ascended the plain, and at five o'clock reached
+the camp through the rain, which had fallen without
+intermission since noon. During his absence the party had
+been occupied in dressing skins, and being able to rest themselves
+were nearly freed from their lameness and swollen
+feet. All this night and the whole of the following day, 7th,
+it rained, the wind being from the southwest off the mountains:
+yet the rivers are falling, and the thermometer 40&deg;
+above 0. The rain continued till the next day, 8th, at ten
+o'clock, when it cleared off, and the weather became fine,
+the wind high from the southwest. The rivers at the point
+have now fallen six inches since our arrival, and this morning
+the water of the south fork became of a reddish brown
+colour, while the north branch continued of its usual whitish
+appearance. The mountains to the south are covered
+with snow.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, 9th. We now consulted upon the course to be
+pursued. On comparing our observations, we were more
+than ever convinced of what we already suspected, that Mr.
+Arrowsmith is incorrect in laying down in the chain of
+Rocky mountains one remarkable mountain called the Tooth,
+nearly as far south as 45&deg;, and said to be so marked from
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_254" id="Pg_254" title="Pg_254">[254]</a></span>the discoveries of Mr. Fidler. We are now within one
+hundred miles of the <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'Rokcy'.">Rocky</ins> mountains and in the latitude of
+47&deg; 24' 12" 8, and therefore it is highly improbable that the
+Missouri should make such a bend to the south before it
+reaches the Rocky mountains, as to have suffered Mr. Fidler
+to come as low as 45&deg; along the eastern borders without
+touching that river: yet the general course of Maria's river
+from this place for fifty-nine miles, as far as captain Lewis
+ascended, was north 69&deg; west, and the south branch, or what
+we consider the Missouri, which captain Clarke had examined
+as far as forty-five miles in a straight line, ran in a
+course south 29&deg; west, and as far as it could be seen went
+considerably west of south, whence we conclude that the
+Missouri itself enters the Rocky mountains to the north of
+45&deg;. In writing to the president from our winter quarters,
+we had already taken the liberty of advancing the southern
+extremity of Mr. Fidler's discoveries about a degree to the
+northward, and this from Indian information as to the bearing
+of the point at which the Missouri enters the mountain;
+but we think actual observation will place it one degree
+still further to the northward. This information of Mr. Fidler
+however, incorrect as it is, affords an additional reason
+for not pursuing Maria's river; for if he came as low
+even as 47&deg; and saw only small streams coming down from
+the mountains, it is to be presumed that these rivulets do
+not penetrate the Rocky mountains so far as to approach
+any navigable branch of the Columbia, and they are most
+probably the remote waters of some northern branch of the
+Missouri. In short, being already in latitude 47&deg; 24' we
+cannot reasonably hope by going farther to the northward
+to find between this place and the Saskashawan any stream
+which can, as the Indians assure us the Missouri does, possess
+a navigable current for some distance in the Rocky mountains:
+the Indians had assured us also that the water of the
+Missouri was nearly transparent at the falls; this is the case
+with the southern branch; that the falls lay a little to the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_255" id="Pg_255" title="Pg_255">[255]</a></span>south of sunset from them; this too is in favour of the southern
+fork, for it bears considerably south of this place which
+is only a few minutes to the northward of fort Mandan;
+that the falls are below the Rocky mountains and near the
+northern termination of one range of those mountains: now
+there is a ridge of mountains which appear behind the
+South mountains and terminates to the southwest of us, at
+a sufficient distance from the unbroken chain of the Rocky
+mountains to allow space for several falls, indeed we fear
+for too many of them. If too the Indians had ever passed
+any stream as large as this southern fork on their way up
+the Missouri, they would have mentioned it; so that their
+silence seems to prove that this branch must be the
+Missouri. The body of water also which it discharges must
+have been acquired from a considerable distance in the
+mountains, for it could not have been collected in the
+parched plains between the Yellowstone and the Rocky
+mountains, since that country could not supply nourishment
+for the dry channels which we passed on the south, and the
+travels of Mr. Fidler forbid us to believe that it could
+have been obtained from the mountains towards the northwest.</p>
+
+<p>These observations which satisfied our mind completely
+we communicated to the party: but every one of them were
+of a contrary opinion; and much of their belief depended
+on Crusatte, an experienced waterman on the Missouri, who
+gave it as his decided judgment that the north fork was
+the genuine Missouri. The men therefore mentioned that
+although they would most cheerfully follow us wherever
+we should direct, yet they were afraid that the south fork
+would soon terminate in the Rocky mountains and leave us
+at a great distance from the Columbia. In order that
+nothing might be omitted which could prevent our falling
+into an error, it was agreed that one of us should ascend
+the southern branch by land until we reached either the
+falls or the mountains. In the meantime in order to lighten
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_256" id="Pg_256" title="Pg_256">[256]</a></span>our burdens as much as possible, we determined to deposit
+here one of the periogues and all the heavy baggage which
+we could possibly spare, as well as some provision, salt, powder,
+and tools: this would at once lighten the other boats,
+and give them the crew which had been employed on board
+the periogue.</p>
+
+<p>Monday, 10. The weather being fair and pleasant we
+dried all our baggage and merchandize and made our deposit.
+These holes or <i>caches</i> as they are called by the
+Missouri traders are very common, particularly among those
+who deal with the Sioux, as the skins and merchandize
+will keep perfectly sound for years, and are protected from
+robbery: our cache is built in this manner: In the high
+plain on the north side of the Missouri and forty yards
+from a steep bluff, we chose a dry situation, and then describing
+a small circle of about twenty inches diameter, removed
+the sod as gently and carefully as possible: the
+hole is then sunk perpendicularly for a foot deep, or more
+if the ground be not firm. It is now worked gradually wider
+as they descend, till at length it becomes six or seven feet
+deep, shaped nearly like a kettle or the lower part of
+a large still with the bottom somewhat sunk at the centre.
+As the earth is dug it is handed up in a vessel and carefully
+laid on a skin or cloth, in which it is carried away
+and usually thrown into the river or concealed so as to
+leave no trace of it. A floor of three or four inches in
+thickness is then made of dry sticks, on which is thrown
+hay or a hide perfectly dry. The goods being well aired and
+dried are laid on this floor, and prevented from touching
+the wall by other dried sticks in proportion as the merchandize
+is stowed away: when the hole is nearly full, a skin
+is laid over the goods, and on this earth is thrown and
+beaten down until with the addition of the sod first removed
+the whole is on a level with the ground, and there
+remains not the slightest appearance of an excavation. In
+addition to this we made another of smaller dimensions,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_257" id="Pg_257" title="Pg_257">[257]</a></span>in which we placed all the baggage, some powder, and our
+blacksmith's tools, having previously repaired such of the
+tools we carry with us as require mending. To guard
+against accident, we hid two parcels of lead and powder
+in the two distinct places. The red periogue was drawn up
+on the middle of a small island at the entrance of Maria's
+river, and secured by being fastened to the trees from the
+effect of any floods. In the evening there was a high wind
+from the southwest accompanied with thunder and rain.
+We now made another observation of the meridian altitude
+of the sun, and found that the mean latitude of the
+entrance of Maria's river, as deduced from three observations,
+is 47&deg; 25' 17" 2 north. We saw a small bird like the
+blue thrush or catbird which we had not before met, and
+also observed that the beemartin or kingbird is common to
+this country although there are no bees here, and in fact
+we have not met with the honey-bee since leaving the
+Osage river.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 11. This morning captain Lewis with four men
+set out on their expedition up the south branch. They soon
+reached the point where the Tansy river approaches the
+Missouri, and observing a large herd of elk before them,
+descended and killed several which they hung up along the
+river so that the party in the boats might see them as they
+came along. They then halted for dinner; but captain
+Lewis who had been for some days afflicted with the dysentery,
+was now attacked with violent pains attended by a
+high fever and was unable to go on. He therefore encamped
+for the night under some willow boughs: having brought
+no medicine he determined to try an experiment with the
+small twigs of the chokecherry, which being stripped of
+their leaves and cut into pieces about two inches long were
+boiled in pure water, till they produced a strong black decoction
+of an astringent bitter taste; a pint of this he took at sunset,
+and repeated the dose an hour afterwards. By
+ten o'clock he was perfectly relieved from pain, a gentle
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_258" id="Pg_258" title="Pg_258">[258]</a></span>perspiration ensued, his fever abated and in the morning he
+was quite recovered. One of the men caught several dozen
+fish of two species: the first is about nine inches long, of a white
+colour, round in shape; the mouth is beset both above and
+below with a rim of fine sharp teeth, the eye moderately
+large, the pupil dark, and the iris narrow, and of a yellowish
+brown colour: in form and size it resembles the white
+chub of the Potomac, though its head is proportionably
+smaller; they readily bite at meat or grasshoppers; but the
+flesh though soft and of a fine white colour is not highly
+flavoured. The second species is precisely of the form and
+about the size of the fish known by the name of the hickory
+shad or old wife, though it differs from it in having
+the outer edge of both the upper and lower jaw set with a
+rim of teeth, and the tongue and palate also are defended
+by long sharp teeth bending inwards, the eye is very large,
+the iris wide and of a silvery colour; they do not inhabit
+muddy water, and the flavour is much superior to that of
+the former species. Of the first kind we had seen a few before
+we reached Maria's river; but had found none of the
+last before we caught them in the Missouri above its junction
+with that river. The white cat continues as high as
+Maria's river, but they are scarce in this part of the river,
+nor have we caught any of them since leaving the Mandans
+which weighed more than six pounds.</p>
+
+<p>Of other game they saw a great abundance even in their
+short march of nine miles.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 12. This morning captain Lewis left the bank
+of the river in order to avoid the steep ravines which generally
+run from the shore to the distance of one or two miles
+in the plain: having reached the opened country he went for
+twelve miles in a course a little to the west of southwest,
+when the sun becoming warm by nine o'clock, he returned
+to the river in quest of water and to kill something for
+breakfast, there being no water in the plain, and the buffaloe
+discovering them before they came within gunshot took
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_259" id="Pg_259" title="Pg_259">[259]</a></span>to flight. They reached the banks in a handsome open low
+ground with cottonwood, after three miles walk. Here they
+saw two large brown bears, and killed them both at the
+first fire, a circumstance which has never before occurred
+since we have seen that animal. Having made a meal of a
+part and hung the remainder on a tree with a note for captain
+Clarke, they again ascended the bluffs into the open
+plains. Here they saw great numbers of the burrowing
+squirrel, also some wolves, antelopes, muledeer, and vast
+herds of buffaloe. They soon crossed a ridge considerably
+higher than the surrounding plains, and from its top had a
+beautiful view of the Rocky mountains, which are now completely
+covered with snow: their general course is from
+southeast to the north of northwest, and they seem to consist
+of several ranges which successively rise above each
+other till the most distant mingles with the clouds. After
+travelling twelve miles they again met the river, where
+there was a handsome plain of cottonwood; and although it
+was not sunset, and they had only come twenty-seven miles,
+yet captain Lewis felt weak from his late disorder, and
+therefore determined to go no further that night. In the
+course of the day they killed a quantity of game, and saw
+some signs of otter as well as beaver, and many tracks of
+the brown bear: they also caught great quantities of the
+white fish mentioned yesterday. With the broad-leafed
+cottonwood, which has formed the principal timber of the
+Missouri, is here mixed another species differing from the first
+only in the narrowness of its leaf and the greater thickness
+of its bark. The leaf is long, oval, acutely pointed, about
+two and a half or three inches long and from three quarters
+of an inch to an inch in width; it is smooth and thick sometimes
+slightly grooved or channeled with the margin a little
+serrate, the upper disk of a common, the lower of a whitish
+green. This species seems to be preferred by the beaver to
+the broad-leaved, probably because the former affords a
+deeper and softer bark.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_260" id="Pg_260" title="Pg_260">[260]</a></span>Thursday 13. They left their encampment at sunrise,
+and ascending the river hills went for six miles in a course
+generally southwest, over a country which though more
+waving than that of yesterday may still be considered level.
+At the extremity of this course they overlooked a most
+beautiful plain, where were infinitely more buffaloe than we
+had ever before seen at a single view. To the southwest
+arose from the plain two mountains of a singular appearance
+and more like ramparts of high fortifications than
+works of nature. They are square figures with sides rising
+perpendicularly to the height of two hundred and fifty feet,
+formed of yellow clay, and the tops seemed to be level plains.
+Finding that the river here bore considerably to the south,
+and fearful of passing the falls before reaching the Rocky
+mountains, they now changed their course to the south, and
+leaving those insulated hills to the right proceeded across
+the plain. In this direction captain Lewis had gone about
+two miles when his ears were saluted with the agreeable
+sound of a fall of water, and as he advanced a spray which
+seemed driven by the high southwest wind arose above the
+plain like a column of smoke and vanished in an instant.
+Towards this point he directed his steps, and the noise increasing
+as he approached soon became too tremendous to
+be mistaken for any thing but the great falls of the Missouri.
+Having travelled seven miles after first hearing the
+sound he reached the falls about twelve o'clock, the hills
+as he approached were difficult of access and two hundred
+feet high: down these he hurried with impatience and seating
+himself on some rocks under the centre of the falls,
+enjoyed the sublime spectacle of this stupendous object
+which has since the creation had been lavishing its magnificence
+upon the desert, unknown to civilization.</p>
+
+
+
+<!-- The Falls and Portage -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_263_f.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_263_t.jpg" width="393" height="700"
+        alt="The Falls and Portage" title="The Falls and Portage" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The river immediately at its cascade is three hundred
+yards wide, and is pressed in by a perpendicular cliff on the
+left, which rises to about one hundred feet and extends up
+the stream for a mile; on the right the bluff is also perpendicular
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_261" id="Pg_261" title="Pg_261">[261]</a></span>for three hundred yards above the falls. For ninety
+or a hundred yards from the left cliff, the water falls in one
+smooth even sheet, over a precipice of at least eighty feet.
+The remaining part of the river precipitates itself with a
+more rapid current, but being received as it falls by the
+irregular and somewhat projecting rocks below, forms a
+splendid prospect of perfectly white foam two hundred yards
+in length, and eighty in perpendicular elevation. This spray
+is dissipated into a thousand shapes, sometimes flying up in
+columns of fifteen or twenty feet, which are then oppressed
+by larger masses of the white foam, on all which the sun
+impresses the brightest colours of the rainbow. As it rises
+from the fall it beats with fury against a ledge of rocks
+which extend across the river at one hundred and fifty yards
+from the precipice. From the perpendicular cliff on the
+north, to the distance of one hundred and twenty yards, the
+rocks rise only a few feet above the water, and when the
+river is high the stream finds a channel across them forty
+yards wide, and near the higher parts of the ledge which
+then rise about twenty feet, and terminate abruptly within
+eighty or ninety yards of the southern side. Between them
+and the perpendicular cliff on the south, the whole body of
+water runs with great swiftness. A few small cedars grow
+near this ridge of rocks which serves as a barrier to defend a
+small plain of about three acres shaded with cottonwood, at
+the lower extremity of which is a grove of the same tree,
+where are several Indian cabins of sticks; below the point
+of them the river is divided by a large rock, several feet
+above the surface of the water, and extending down the
+stream for twenty yards. At the distance of three hundred
+yards from the same ridge is a second abutment of solid
+perpendicular rock about sixty feet high, projecting at right
+angles from the small plain on the north for one hundred
+and thirty-four yards into the river. After leaving this, the
+Missouri again spreads itself to its usual distance of three
+hundred yards, though with more than its ordinary rapidity.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_262" id="Pg_262" title="Pg_262">[262]</a></span>The hunters who had been sent out now returned loaded
+with buffaloe meat, and captain Lewis encamped for the
+night under a tree near the falls. The men were again despatched
+to hunt for food against the arrival of the party,
+and captain Lewis walked down the river to discover if
+possible some place where the canoes might be safely drawn
+on shore, in order to be transported beyond the falls. He
+returned however without discovering any such spot, the
+river for three miles below being one continued succession
+of rapids and cascades, overhung with perpendicular bluffs
+from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet high; in
+short, it seems to have worn itself a channel through the
+solid rock. In the afternoon they caught in the falls some
+of both kinds of the white fish, and half a dozen trout from
+sixteen to twenty-three inches long, precisely resembling in
+form and the position of its fins the mountain or speckled
+trout of the United States, except that the specks of the former
+are of a deep black, while those of the latter are of a
+red or gold colour: they have long sharp teeth on the palate
+and tongue, and generally a small speck of red on each side
+behind the front ventral fins; the flesh is of a pale yellowish
+red, or when in good order of a rose-coloured red.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 14. This morning one of the men was sent to
+captain Clarke with an account of the discovery of the falls,
+and after employing the rest in preserving the meat which
+had been killed yesterday, captain Lewis proceeded to examine
+the rapids above. From the falls he directed his
+course southwest up the river: after passing one continued
+rapid, and three small cascades, each three or four feet high,
+he reached at the distance of five miles a second fall. The
+river is about four hundred yards wide, and for the distance
+of three hundred throws itself over to the depth of nineteen
+feet, and so irregularly that he gave it the name of the
+Crooked falls. From the southern shore it extends obliquely
+upwards about one hundred and fifty yards, and then
+forms an acute angle downwards nearly to the commencement
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_263" id="Pg_263" title="Pg_263">[263]</a></span>of four small islands close to the northern side. From
+the perpendicular pitch to these islands, a distance of more
+than one hundred yards, the water glides down a sloping
+rock with a velocity almost equal to that of its fall. Above
+this fall the river bends suddenly to the northward: while
+viewing this place captain Lewis heard a loud roar above
+him, and crossing the point of a hill for a few hundred
+yards, he saw one of the most beautiful objects in nature:
+the whole Missouri is suddenly stopped by one shelving rock,
+which without a single niche and with an edge as straight and
+regular as if formed by art, stretches itself from one side of
+the river to the other for at least a quarter of a mile.
+Over this it precipitates itself in an even uninterrupted
+sheet to the perpendicular depth of fifty feet, whence dashing
+against the rocky bottom it rushes rapidly down, leaving
+behind it a spray of the purest foam across the river.
+The scene which it presented was indeed singularly beautiful,
+since without any of the wild irregular sublimity of
+the lower falls, it combined all the regular elegances which
+the fancy of a painter would select to form a beautiful
+waterfall. The eye had scarcely been regaled with this
+charming prospect, when at the distance of half a mile
+captain Lewis observed another of a similar kind: to this
+he immediately hastened, and found a cascade stretching
+across the whole river for a quarter of a mile with a descent
+of fourteen feet, though the perpendicular pitch was
+only six feet. This too in any other neighborhood would
+have been an object of great magnificence, but after what
+he had just seen it became of secondary interest; his curiosity
+being however awakened, he determined to go on even
+should night overtake him to the head of the falls. He
+therefore pursued the southwest course of the river, which
+was one constant succession of rapids and small cascades, at
+every one of which the bluffs grew lower, or the bed of the
+river became more on a level with the plains. At the distance
+of two and a half miles he arrived at another cataract
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_264" id="Pg_264" title="Pg_264">[264]</a></span>of twenty-six feet. The river is here six hundred yards
+wide, but the descent is not immediately perpendicular,
+though the river falls generally with a regular and smooth
+sheet; for about one third of the descent a rock protrudes
+to a small distance, receives the water in its passage and
+gives it a curve. On the south side is a beautiful plain a few
+feet above the level of the falls; on the north the country is
+more broken, and there is a hill not far from the river.
+Just below the falls is a little island in the middle of the
+river well covered with timber. Here on a cottonwood tree
+an eagle had fixed its nest, and seemed the undisputed mistress
+of a spot, to contest whose dominion neither man nor
+beast would venture across the gulfs that surround it, and
+which is further secured by the mist rising from the falls.
+This solitary bird could not escape the observation of the
+Indians who made the eagle's nest a part of their description
+of the falls, which now proves to be correct in almost
+every particular, except that they did not do justice to their
+height. Just above this is a cascade of about five feet, beyond
+which, as far as could be discerned, the velocity of the
+water seemed to abate. Captain Lewis now ascended the
+hill which was behind him, and saw from its top a delightful
+plain extending from the river to the base of the Snow
+mountains to the south and southwest. Along this wide
+level country the Missouri pursued its winding course, filled
+with water to its even and grassy banks, while about four
+miles above it was joined by a large river flowing from the
+northwest through a valley three miles in width, and distinguished
+by the timber which adorned its shores; the Missouri
+itself stretches to the south in one unruffled stream of
+water as if unconscious of the roughness it must soon encounter,
+and bearing on its bosom vast flocks of geese,
+while numerous herds of buffaloe are feeding on the plains
+which surround it.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Lewis then descended the hill, and directed his
+course towards the river falling in from the west. He soon
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_265" id="Pg_265" title="Pg_265">[265]</a></span>met a herd of at least a thousand buffaloe, and being desirous
+of providing for supper shot one of them; the animal
+began to bleed, and captain Lewis who had forgotten
+to reload his rifle, was intently watching to see him
+fall, when he beheld a large brown bear who was stealing on
+him unperceived, and was already within twenty steps. In
+the first moment of surprise he lifted his rifle, but remembering
+instantly that it was not charged, and that he had
+not time to reload, he felt that there was no safety but in
+flight. It was in the open level plain, not a bush nor a tree
+within three hundred yards, the bank of the river sloping
+and not more than three feet high, so that there was no
+possible mode of concealment: captain Lewis therefore
+thought of retreating in a quick walk as fast as the bear
+advanced towards the nearest tree; but as soon as he turned
+the bear ran open mouth and at full speed upon him. Captain
+Lewis ran about eighty yards, but finding that the animal
+gained on him fast, it flashed on his mind that by getting
+into the water to such a depth that the bear would be
+obliged to attack him swimming, there was still some chance
+of his life, he therefore turned short, plunged into the river
+about waist deep, and facing about presented the point of
+his espontoon. The bear arrived at the water's edge within
+twenty feet of him, but as soon as he put himself in this position
+of defence, he seemed frightened, and wheeling about,
+retreated with as much precipitation as he had pursued.
+Very glad to be released from this danger, captain Lewis
+returned to the shore, and observed him run with great
+speed, sometimes looking back as if he expected to be pursued,
+till he reached the woods. He could not conceive the
+cause of the sudden alarm of the bear, but congratulated
+himself on his escape when he saw his own track torn to
+pieces by the furious animal, and learnt from the whole adventure
+never to suffer his rifle to be a moment unloaded.
+He now resumed his progress in the direction which the bear
+had taken towards the western river, and found it a handsome
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_266" id="Pg_266" title="Pg_266">[266]</a></span>stream about two hundred yards wide, apparently deep,
+with a gentle current; its waters clear, and its banks, which
+were formed principally of dark brown and blue clay, are
+about the same height as those of the Missouri, that is from
+three to five feet. What was singular was that the river does
+not seem to overflow its banks at any season, while it might
+be presumed from its vicinity to the mountains, that the torrents
+arising from the melting of the snows, would sometimes
+cause it to swell beyond its limits. The contrary fact
+would induce a belief that the Rocky mountains yield their
+snows very reluctantly and equably to the sun, and are not
+often drenched by very heavy rains. This river is no doubt
+that which the Indians call Medicine river, which they mentioned
+as emptying into the Missouri, just above the falls.
+After examining Medicine river, captain Lewis set out at
+half after six o'clock in the evening on his return towards
+the camp, which he estimated at the distance of twelve miles.
+In going through the low grounds on Medicine river he met
+an animal which at a distance he thought was a wolf, but on
+coming within sixty paces, it proved to be some brownish
+yellow animal standing near its burrow, which, when he came
+nigh, crouched and seemed as if about to spring on him.
+Captain Lewis fired and the beast disappeared in its burrow.
+From the track and the general appearance of the animal
+he supposed it to be of the tiger kind. He then went on,
+but as if the beasts of the forests had conspired against
+him, three buffaloe bulls which were feeding with a large
+herd at the distance of half a mile, left their companions
+and ran at full speed towards him. He turned round, and
+unwilling to give up the field advanced towards them: when
+they came within a hundred yards, they stopped, looked at
+him for some time, and then retreated as they came. He now
+pursued his route in the dark, reflecting on the strange adventures
+and sights of the day which crowded on his mind so rapidly
+that he should have been inclined to believe it all enchantment
+if the thorns of the prickly pear piercing his feet did not
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_267" id="Pg_267" title="Pg_267">[267]</a></span>dispel at every moment the illusion. He at last reached the
+party, who had been very anxious for his safety, and who
+had already decided on the route which each should take in
+the morning to look for him. Being much fatigued he supped
+and slept well during the night.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, 15. The men were again sent out to bring in
+the game killed yesterday and to procure more: they also obtained
+a number of fine trout and several small catfish
+weighing about four pounds, and differing from the white
+catfish lower down the Missouri. On awaking this morning
+captain Lewis found a large rattlesnake coiled on the trunk
+of a tree under which he had been sleeping. He killed it,
+and found it like those we had seen before, differing from
+those of the Atlantic states, not in its colours but in the form
+and arrangement of them; it had one hundred and seventy-six
+scuta on the abdomen, and seventeen half-formed scuta
+on the tail. There is a heavy dew on the grass about the
+camp every morning, which no doubt proceeds from the
+mist of the falls, as it takes place no where in the plains nor
+on the river except here. The messenger sent to captain
+Clarke returned with information of his having arrived five
+miles below at a rapid, which he did not think it prudent to
+ascend and would wait till captain Lewis and his party rejoined
+him.</p>
+
+<p>On Tuesday 11th, the day when captain Lewis left us,
+we remained at the entrance of Maria's river and completed
+the deposits of all the articles with which we could dispense.
+The morning had been fair with a high wind from the southwest,
+which shifted in the evening to northwest, when the
+weather became cold and the wind high. The next morning,</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday, 12, we left our encampment with a fair day
+and a southwest wind. The river was now so crowded with
+islands that within the distance of ten miles and a half we
+passed eleven of different dimensions before reaching a high
+black bluff in a bend on the left, where we saw a great number
+of swallows. Within one mile and a half farther we
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_268" id="Pg_268" title="Pg_268">[268]</a></span>passed four small islands, two on each side, and at fifteen
+miles from our encampment reached a spring which the
+men called Grog spring: it is on the northern shore, and at
+the point where Tansy river approaches within one hundred
+yards of the Missouri. From this place we proceeded
+three miles to a low bluff on the north opposite to an island,
+and spent the night in an old Indian encampment. The bluffs
+under which we passed were composed of a blackish clay
+and coal for about eighty feet, above which for thirty or
+forty feet is a brownish yellow earth. The river is very
+rapid and obstructed by bars of gravel and stone of different
+shapes and sizes, so that three of our canoes were in great
+danger in the course of the day. We had a few drops of rain
+about two o'clock in the afternoon. The only animals we
+killed were elk and deer; but we saw great numbers of
+rattlesnakes.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday, 13. The morning was fair and there was
+some dew on the ground. After passing two islands we
+reached at the distance of a mile and a half a small rapid
+stream fifty yards wide, emptying itself on the south, rising
+in a mountain to the southeast about twelve or fifteen miles
+distant, and at this time covered with snow. As it is the channel
+for the melted snow of that mountain we called it Snow
+river: opposite to its entrance is another island: at one mile
+and three quarters is a black bluff of slate on the south;
+nine miles beyond which, after passing ten islands, we came
+to on the southern shore near an old Indian fortified camp,
+opposite the lower point of an island, having made thirteen
+miles. The number of islands and shoals, the rapidity of
+the river, and the quantity of large stones, rendered the
+navigation very disagreeable: along the banks we distinguished
+several low bluffs or cliffs of slate. There were
+great numbers of geese and goslings; the geese not being
+able to fly at this season. Gooseberries are ripe and in great
+abundance; the yellow currant is also common, but not yet
+ripe. Our game consisted of buffaloe and goats.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_269" id="Pg_269" title="Pg_269">[269]</a></span>Friday, 14. Again the day is fine. We made two miles
+to a small island in the southern bend, after passing several
+bad rapids. The current becomes indeed swifter as we
+ascend and the canoes frequently receive water as we drag
+them with difficulty along. At the distance of six miles we
+reached captain Clarke's camp on the fourth, which is on
+the north side and opposite to a large gravelly bar. Here
+the man sent by captain Lewis joined us with the pleasing
+intelligence that he had discovered the falls, and was convinced
+that the course we were pursuing was that of the
+true Missouri. At a mile and a half we reached the upper
+point of an island, three quarters of a mile beyond which
+we encamped on the south, after making only ten and a quarter
+miles. Along the river was but little timber, but much
+hard slate in the bluffs.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, 15. The morning being warm and fair we
+set out at the usual hour, but proceeded with great difficulty
+in consequence of the increased rapidity of the current.
+The channel is constantly obstructed by rocks and
+dangerous rapids. During the whole progress the men are in
+the water hauling the canoes, and walking on sharp rocks and
+round stones which cut their feet or cause them to fall.
+The rattlesnakes too are so numerous that the men are
+constantly on their guard against being bitten by them; yet
+they bear the fatigues with the most undiminished cheerfulness.
+We hear the roar of the falls very distinctly this
+morning. At three and three quarter miles we came to a
+rock in a bend to the south, resembling a tower. At six
+and three quarter miles we reached a large creek on the
+south, which after one of our men we called Shield's creek.
+It is rapid in its course, about thirty yards wide, and on
+sending a person five miles up it proved to have a fall of
+fifteen feet, and some timber on its low ground. Above this
+river the bluffs of the Missouri are of red earth mixed with
+stratas of black stone; below it we passed some white clay
+in the banks which mixes with water in every respect like
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_270" id="Pg_270" title="Pg_270">[270]</a></span>flour. At three and three quarter miles we reached a point
+on the north opposite an island and a bluff; and one mile and
+a quarter further, after passing some red bluffs, came to on
+the north side, having made twelve miles. Here we found
+a rapid so difficult that we did not think proper to attempt
+the passage this evening, and therefore sent to captain
+Lewis to apprise him of our arrival. We saw a number
+of geese, ducks, crows, and blackbirds to-day, the two
+former with their young. The river rose a little this evening,
+but the timber is still so scarce that we could not procure
+enough for our use during the night.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, June 16. Some rain fell last night, and this
+morning the weather was cloudy and the wind high from the
+southwest. We passed the rapid by doubly manning the
+periogue and canoes, and halted at the distance of a mile
+and a quarter to examine the rapids above, which we found
+to be a continued succession of cascades as far as the view
+extended, which was about two miles. About a mile above
+where we halted was a large creek falling in on the south,
+opposite to which is a large sulphur spring falling over the
+rocks on the north: captain Lewis arrived at two from the
+falls about five miles above us, and after consulting upon
+the subject of the portage, we crossed the river and formed
+a camp on the north, having come three quarters of a mile
+to-day. From our own observation we had deemed the south
+side to be the most favourable for a portage, but two men
+sent out for the purpose of examining it, reported that the
+creek and the ravines intersected the plain so deeply that it
+was impossible to cross it. Captain Clarke therefore resolved
+to examine more minutely what was the best route:
+the four canoes were unloaded at the camp and then sent
+across the river, where by means of strong cords they were
+hauled over the first rapid, whence they may be easily drawn
+into the creek. Finding too, that the portage would be at
+all events too long to enable us to carry the boats on our
+shoulders, six men were set to work to make wheels for carriages
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_271" id="Pg_271" title="Pg_271">[271]</a></span>to transport them. Since leaving Maria's river the
+wife of Chaboneau, our interpreter, has been dangerously
+ill, but she now found great relief from the mineral water of
+the sulphur spring. It is situated about two hundred yards
+from the Missouri, into which it empties over a precipice
+of rock about twenty-five feet high. The water is perfectly
+transparent, strongly impregnated with sulphur, and
+we suspect iron also, as the colour of the hills and bluffs
+in the neighbourhood indicates the presence of that metal.
+In short the water to all appearance is precisely similar to
+that of Bowyer's sulphur spring in Virginia.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 17. Captain Clarke set out with five men to explore
+the country; the rest were employed in hunting, making
+wheels and in drawing the five canoes and all the
+baggage up the creek, which we now called Portage creek:
+from this creek there is a gradual ascent to the top of the
+high plain, while the bluffs of the creek lower down and of
+the Missouri, both above and below its entrance, were so
+steep as to have rendered it almost impracticable to drag
+them up from the Missouri. We found great difficulty and
+some danger in even ascending the creek thus far, in consequence
+of the rapids and rocks of the channel of the creek,
+which just above where we brought the canoes has a fall
+of five feet, and high and sleep bluffs beyond it: we were
+very fortunate in finding just below Portage creek a cottonwood
+tree about twenty-two inches in diameter, and
+large enough to make the carriage wheels; it was perhaps
+the only one of the same size within twenty miles; and the
+cottonwood, which we are obliged to employ in the other
+parts of the work, is extremely soft and brittle. The mast
+of the white periogue which we mean to leave behind, supplied
+us with two axletrees. There are vast quantities of
+buffaloe feeding in the plains or watering in the river, which
+is also strewed with the floating carcases and limbs of these
+animals. They go in large herds to water about the falls,
+and as all the passages to the river near that place are narrow
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_272" id="Pg_272" title="Pg_272">[272]</a></span>and steep, the foremost are pressed into the river by
+the impatience of those behind. In this way we have seen
+ten or a dozen disappear over the falls in a few minutes.
+They afford excellent food for the wolves, bears, and birds
+of prey; and this circumstance may account for the reluctance
+of the bears to yield their dominion over the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 18. The periogue was drawn up a little below
+our camp and secured in a thick copse of willow bushes.
+We now began to form a cache or place of deposit and to dry
+our goods and other articles which required inspection. The
+wagons too are completed. Our hunters brought us ten
+deer, and we shot two out of a herd of buffaloe that came
+to water at the sulphur spring. There is a species of gooseberry
+growing abundantly among the rocks on the sides of
+the cliffs: it is now ripe, of a pale red colour, about
+the size of the common gooseberry, and like it is an ovate
+pericarp of soft pulp enveloping a number of small whitish
+coloured seeds, and consisting of a yellowish slimy mucilaginous
+substance, with a sweet taste; the surface of the berry
+is covered with a glutinous adhesive matter, and its fruit
+though ripe retains its withered corolla. The shrub itself
+seldom rises more than two feet high, is much branched,
+and has no thorns. The leaves resemble those of the common
+gooseberry except in being smaller, and the berry is
+supported by separate peduncles or footstalks half an inch
+long. There are also immense quantities of grasshoppers
+of a brown colour in the plains, and they no doubt contribute
+to the lowness of the grass, which is not generally more
+than three inches high, though it is soft, narrow-leafed and
+affords a fine pasture for the buffaloe.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 19. The wind blew violently to-day, as it did
+yesterday, and as it does frequently in this open country,
+where there is not a tree to break or oppose its force. Some
+men were sent for the meat killed yesterday which fortunately
+had not been discovered by the wolves. Another party went
+to Medicine river in quest of elk, which we hope may be
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_273" id="Pg_273" title="Pg_273">[273]</a></span>induced to resort there, from there being more wood in that
+neighborhood than on the Missouri. All the rest were occupied
+in packing the baggage and mending their moccasins,
+in order to prepare for the portage. We caught a number
+of the white fish, but no catfish or trout. Our poor Indian
+woman, who had recovered so far as to walk out, imprudently
+ate a quantity of the white apple, which with some
+dried fish occasioned a return of her fever.</p>
+
+<p>The meridian altitude of the sun's lower limb, as observed
+with octant by back observation, was 53&deg; 15', giving as the
+latitude of our camp, 47&deg; 8' 59" 5"'.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 20. As we were desirous of getting meat enough
+to last us during the portage, so that the men might not be diverted
+from their labour to look for food, we sent out four hunters
+to-day: they killed eleven buffaloe. This was indeed an
+easy labour, for there are vast herds coming constantly to the
+opposite bank of the river to water; they seem also to make
+much use of the mineral water of the sulphur spring, but
+whether from choice, or because it is more convenient than
+the river, we cannot determine, as they sometimes pass near
+the spring and go on to the river. Besides this spring,
+brackish water or that of a dark colour impregnated with
+mineral salts, such as we have frequently met on the Missouri,
+may be found in small quantities in some of the steep
+ravines on the north side of the river opposite to us and at
+the falls.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Clarke returned this evening, having examined
+the whole course of the river and fixed the route most practicable
+for the portage. The first day, 17th, he was occupied
+in measuring the heights and distances along the banks
+of the river, and slept near a ravine at the foot of the crooked
+falls, having very narrowly escaped falling into the river,
+where he would have perished inevitably, in descending the
+cliffs near the grand cataract. The next day, 18th, he continued
+the same occupation and arrived in the afternoon
+at the junction of Medicine and Missouri rivers: up the latter
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_274" id="Pg_274" title="Pg_274">[274]</a></span>he ascended, and passed at the distance of a mile an
+island and a little timber in an eastwardly bend of the river.
+One mile beyond this he came to the lower point of a large
+island; another small island in the middle of the river, and
+one near the left shore at the distance of three miles, opposite
+to the head of which he encamped near the mouth of a
+creek which appeared to rise in the South mountain. These
+three islands are opposite to each other, and we gave them
+the name of the Whitebear islands from observing some of
+those animals on them. He killed a beaver, an elk and eight
+buffaloe. One of the men who was sent a short distance
+from the camp to bring home some meat, was attacked by a
+white bear, and closely pursued within forty paces of the
+camp, and narrowly escaped being caught. Captain Clarke
+immediately went with three men in quest of the bear, which
+he was afraid might surprise another of the hunters who
+was out collecting the game. The bear was however too
+quick, for before captain Clarke could reach the man, the
+bear had attacked him and compelled him to take refuge in
+the water. He now ran off as they approached, and it being
+late they deferred pursuing him till the next morning.</p>
+
+
+<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p>
+
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_275" id="Pg_275" title="Pg_275">[275]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<!-- ROUTE MAP -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173"
+        alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Description and romantic appearance of the Missouri at the junction of the
+Medicine river&mdash;the difficulty of transporting the baggage at the falls&mdash;the
+party employed in the construction of a boat of skins&mdash;the embarrassments
+they had to encounter for want of proper materials&mdash;during the work the
+party much troubled by white bears&mdash;violent hail-storm, and providential
+escape of captain Clarke and his party&mdash;description of a remarkable fountain&mdash;singular
+explosion heard from the Black mountains&mdash;the boat found to
+be insufficient, and the serious disappointment of the party&mdash;captain Clarke
+undertakes to repair the damage by building canoes, and accomplishes the
+task.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>On the 19th, captain Clarke not being able to find the
+bear mentioned in the last chapter, spent the day in
+examining the country both above and below the Whitebear
+islands, and concluded that the place of his encampment
+would be the best point for the extremity of the portage.
+The men were therefore occupied in drying the meat to be
+left here. Immense numbers of buffaloe are every where
+round, and they saw a summer duck which is now sitting.
+The next morning, 20th, he crossed the level plain, fixed
+stakes to mark the route of the portage, till he passed a
+large ravine which would oblige us to make the portage
+farther from the river: after this there being no other obstacle
+he went to the river where he had first struck it, and
+took its courses and distances down to the camp. From the
+draught and survey of captain Clarke, we had now a clear
+and connected view of the falls, cascades, and rapids of the
+Missouri.</p>
+
+<p>This river is three hundred yards wide at the point
+where it receives the waters of Medicine river, which is
+one hundred and thirty-seven yards in width. The united
+current continues three hundred and twenty-eight poles to a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_276" id="Pg_276" title="Pg_276">[276]</a></span>small rapid on the north side, from which it gradually
+widens to one thousand four hundred yards, and at the distance
+of five hundred and forty-eight poles reaches the head
+of the rapids, narrowing as it approaches them. Here the
+hills on the north which had withdrawn from the bank
+closely border the river, which, for the space of three hundred
+and twenty poles, makes its way over the rocks with
+a descent of thirty feet: in this course the current is contracted
+to five hundred and eighty yards, and after throwing
+itself over a small pitch of five feet, forms a beautiful
+cascade of twenty-six feet five inches; this does not however
+fall immediately perpendicular, being stopped by a part of
+the rock which projects at about one third of the distance.
+After descending this fall, and passing the cottonwood
+island on which the eagle has fixed its nest, the river goes
+on for five hundred and thirty-two poles over rapids and little
+falls, the estimated descent of which is thirteen feet six
+inches till it is joined by a large fountain boiling up underneath
+the rocks near the edge of the river, into which it
+falls with a cascade of eight feet. It is of the most perfect
+clearness and rather of a bluish cast; and even after falling
+into the Missouri it preserves its colour for half a mile.
+From this fountain the river descends with increased rapidity
+for the distance of two hundred and fourteen poles, during
+which the estimated descent is five feet from this for
+a distance of one hundred and thirty-five poles, the river
+descends fourteen feet seven inches including a perpendicular
+fall of six feet seven inches. The river has now become
+pressed into a space of four hundred and seventy-three
+yards, and here forms a grand cataract by falling over a
+plain rock the whole distance across the river to the depth
+of forty-seven feet eight inches: after recovering itself the
+Missouri then proceeds with an estimated descent of three
+feet, till at the distance of one hundred and two poles it
+again is precipitated down the Crooked falls of nineteen
+feet perpendicular; below this at the mouth of a deep ravine
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_277" id="Pg_277" title="Pg_277">[277]</a></span>is a fall of five feet, after which for the distance of
+nine hundred and seventy poles the descent is much more
+gradual, not being more than ten feet, and then succeeds a
+handsome level plain for the space of one hundred and
+seventy-eight poles with a computed descent of three feet,
+making a bend towards the north. Thence it descends
+during four hundred and eight poles, about eighteen feet
+and a half, when it makes a perpendicular fall of two feet,
+which is ninety poles beyond the great cataract, in approaching
+which it descends thirteen feet within two hundred
+yards, and gathering strength from its confined channel,
+which is only two hundred and eighty yards wide,
+rushes over the fall to the depth of eighty-seven feet and
+three quarters of an inch. After raging among the rocks
+and losing itself in foam, it is compressed immediately into a
+bed of ninety-three yards in width: it continues for three
+hundred and forty poles to the entrance of a run or deep ravine
+where there is a fall of three feet, which, joined to the
+decline of the river during that course, makes the descent
+six feet. As it goes on the descent within the next two hundred
+and forty poles is only four feet: from this passing a run
+or deep ravine the descent for four hundred poles is thirteen
+feet; within two hundred and forty poles a second descent
+of eighteen feet; thence one hundred and sixty poles
+a descent of six feet; after which to the mouth of Portage
+creek, a distance of two hundred and eighty poles, the descent
+is ten feet. From this survey and estimate it results
+that the river experiences a descent of three hundred and
+fifty-two feet in the course of two and three quarter miles,
+from the commencement of the rapids to the mouth of
+Portage creek, exclusive of the almost impassable rapids
+which extend for a mile below its entrance.</p>
+
+<p>The latitude of our camp below the entrance of Portage
+creek, was found to be 47&deg; 7' 10" 3, as deduced from
+a meridian altitude of the sun's lower limb taken with octant
+by back observation giving 53&deg; 10'.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_278" id="Pg_278" title="Pg_278">[278]</a></span>Friday, June 21. Having made the necessary preparations
+for continuing our route, a part of the baggage was
+carried across the creek into the high plain, three miles
+in advance and placed on one of the carriages with truck
+wheels: the rest of the party was employed in drying meat
+and dressing elk skins. We killed several muledeer and an
+elk, and observed as usual vast quantities of buffaloe who
+came to drink at the river. For the first time on the Missouri
+we have seen near the falls a species of fishing duck,
+the body of which is brown and white, the wings white,
+and the head and upper part of the neck of a brick red,
+with a narrow beak, which seems to be of the same kind
+common in the Susquehanna, Potomac and James' river.
+The little wood which this neighbourhood affords consists
+of the broad and narrow-leafed cottonwood, the box alder,
+the narrow and broad-leafed willow, the large or sweet
+willow, which was not common below Maria's river, but
+which here attains the same size and has the same appearance
+as in the Atlantic states. The undergrowth consists
+of roses, gooseberries, currants, small honeysuckles, and
+the redwood, the inner part of which the <i>engages</i> or watermen
+are fond of smoking when mixed with tobacco.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, 22. We now set out to pass the portage and
+halted for dinner at eight miles distance near a little stream.
+The axletrees of our carriage, which had been made of an
+old mast, and the cottonwood tongues broke before we came
+there: but we renewed them with the timber of the sweet willow,
+which lasted till within half a mile of our intended
+camp, when the tongues gave way and we were obliged to
+take as much baggage as we could carry on our backs down
+to the river, where we formed an encampment in a small
+grove of timber opposite to the Whitebear islands. Here
+the banks on both sides of the river are handsome, level,
+and extensive; that near our camp is not more than two feet
+above the surface of the water. The river is about eight
+hundred yards wide just above these islands, ten feet deep
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_279" id="Pg_279" title="Pg_279">[279]</a></span>in most places, and with a very gentle current. The plains
+however on this part of the river are not so fertile as those
+from the mouth of the Muscleshell and thence downwards;
+there is much more stone on the sides of the hills and on the
+broken lands than is to be found lower down. We saw in
+the plains vast quantities of buffaloe, a number of small
+birds, and the large brown curlew, which is now sitting, and
+lays its eggs, which are of a pale blue with black-specks,
+on the ground without any nest. There is also a species of
+lark much resembling the bird called the oldfield lark, with a
+yellow breast and a black spot on the croup; though it differs
+from the latter in having its tail formed of feathers of
+an unequal length and pointed; the beak too is somewhat
+longer and more curved, and the note differs considerably.
+The prickly pear annoyed us very much to-day by sticking
+through our moccasins. As soon as we had kindled our fires
+we examined the meat which captain Clarke had left here,
+but found that the greater part of it had been taken by the
+wolves.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, 23. After we had brought up the canoe and
+baggage captain Clarke went down to the camp at Portage
+creek, where four of the men had been left with the Indian
+woman. Captain Lewis during the morning prepared the
+camp, and in the afternoon went down in a canoe to Medicine
+river to look after the three men who had been sent
+thither to hunt on the 19th, and from whom nothing had as
+yet been heard. He went up the river about half a mile
+and then walked along on the right bank, hallooing as he
+went, till at the distance of five miles he found one of them
+who had fixed his camp on the opposite bank, where he had
+killed seven deer and dried about six hundred pounds of
+buffaloe meat, but had killed no elk, the animal chiefly wanted.
+He knew nothing of his companions except that on the
+day of their departure from camp he had left them at the
+falls and come on to Medicine river, not having seen them
+since. As it was too late to return captain Lewis passed
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_280" id="Pg_280" title="Pg_280">[280]</a></span>over on a raft which he made for the purpose and spent the
+night at Shannon's camp, and the next morning,</p>
+
+<p>Monday, 24, sent J. Fields up the river with orders to
+go four miles and return, whether he found the two absent
+hunters or not; then descending the southwest side of Medicine
+river, he crossed the Missouri in the canoe, and sent
+Shannon back to his camp to join Fields and bring the meat
+which they had killed: this they did, and arrived in the
+evening at the camp on Whitebear islands. A part of the
+men from Portage creek also arrived with two canoes and
+baggage. On going down yesterday captain Clarke cut off
+several angles of the former route so as to shorten the Portage
+considerably, and marked it with stakes: he arrived
+there in time to have two of the canoes carried up in the
+high plain about a mile in advance. Here they all repaired
+their moccasins, and put on double soals to protect them
+from the prickly pear and from the sharp points of earth
+which have been formed by the trampling of the buffaloe
+during the late rains: this of itself is sufficient to render the
+portage disagreeable to one who had no burden; but as the
+men are loaded as heavily as their strength will permit, the
+crossing is really painful: some are limping with the soreness
+of their feet, others are scarcely able to stand for more
+than a few minutes from the heat and fatigue: they are
+all obliged to halt and rest frequently, and at almost every
+stopping place they fall and many of them are asleep in an
+instant; yet no one complains and they go on with great
+cheerfulness. At their camp Drewyer and Fields joined
+them, and while captain Lewis was looking for them at
+Medicine river, they returned to report the absence of
+Shannon about whom they had been very uneasy. They
+had killed several buffaloe at the bend of the Missouri
+above the falls: and dried about eight hundred pounds of meat
+and got one hundred pounds of tallow: they had also killed
+some deer, but had seen no elk. After getting the party in
+motion with the canoes captain Clarke returned to his camp
+at Portage creek.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_281" id="Pg_281" title="Pg_281">[281]</a></span>We were now occupied in fitting up a boat of skins, the
+frame of which had been prepared for the purpose at Harper's
+ferry. It was made of iron, thirty-six feet long, four
+feet and a half in the beam, and twenty-six inches wide in
+the bottom. Two men had been sent this morning for timber
+to complete it, but they could find scarcely any even
+tolerably straight sticks four and a half feet long, and as the
+cottonwood is too soft and brittle we were obliged to use
+the willow and box-alder.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday, 25. The party returned to the lower camp.
+Two men were sent on the large island to look for timber.
+J. Fields was sent up the Missouri to hunt elk; but he returned
+about noon and informed us that a few miles above
+he saw two white bear near the river, and in attempting to
+fire at them came suddenly on a third, who being only a few
+steps off immediately attacked him; that in running to
+escape from the monster he leaped down a steep bank of
+the river, where falling on a bar of stone he cut his hand and
+knee and bent his gun; but fortunately for him the bank
+concealed him from his antagonist or he would have been
+most probably lost. The other two returned with a small
+quantity of bark and timber, which was all they could find
+on the island; but they had killed two elk: these were valuable,
+as we are desirous of procuring the skins of that animal
+in order to cover the boat, as they are more strong and
+durable than those of the buffaloe, and do not shrink so
+much in drying. The party that went to the lower camp
+had one canoe and the baggage carried into the high plain
+to be ready in the morning, and then all who could make
+use of their feet had a dance on the green to the music of a
+violin. We have been unsuccessful in our attempt to catch
+fish, nor does there seem to be any in this part of the river.
+We observe a number of water terrapins. There are
+quantities of young blackbirds in these islands just
+beginning to fly. Among the vegetable productions we observe
+a species of wild rye which is now heading: it rises
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_282" id="Pg_282" title="Pg_282">[282]</a></span>to the height of eighteen or twenty inches, the beard remarkably
+fine and soft; the culen is jointed, and in every
+respect except in height it resembles the wild rye. Great
+quantities of mint too, like the peppermint, are found here.</p>
+
+<p>The winds are sometimes violent in these plains. The
+men inform us that as they were bringing one of the canoes
+along on truck-wheels, they hoisted the sail and the wind
+carried her along for some distance.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 26. Two men were sent on the opposite side
+of the river for bark and timber, of which they procured
+some, but by no means enough for our purposes. The bark
+of the cottonwood is too soft, and our only dependence is on
+the sweet willow, which has a tough strong bark; the two
+hunters killed seven buffaloe. A party arrived from below
+with two canoes and baggage, and the wind being from the
+southeast, they had made considerable progress with the
+sails. On their arrival one of the men who had been considerably
+heated and fatigued, swallowed a very hearty
+draught of water, and was immediately taken ill; captain
+Lewis bled him with a penknife, having no other instrument
+at hand, and succeeded in restoring him to health the next
+day. Captain Clarke formed a second cache or deposit near
+the camp, and placed the swivel under the rocks near the
+river. The antelopes are still scattered through the plains;
+the females with their young, which are generally two in
+number, and the males by themselves.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 27. The party were employed in preparing
+timber for the boat, except two who were sent to hunt.
+About one in the afternoon a cloud arose from the southwest
+and brought with it violent thunder, lightning, and
+hail: soon after it passed the hunters came in from about
+four miles above us. They had killed nine elk, and three
+bear. As they were hunting on the river they saw a low
+ground covered with thick brushwood, where from the tracks
+along shore they thought a bear had probably taken refuge:
+they therefore landed, without making a noise, and climbed
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_283" id="Pg_283" title="Pg_283">[283]</a></span>a tree about twenty feet above the ground. Having fixed
+themselves securely, they raised a loud shout, and a bear instantly
+rushed towards them. These animals never climb,
+and therefore when he came to the tree and stopped to look
+at them, Drewyer shot him in the head; he proved to be the
+largest we have yet seen, his nose appeared to be like that
+of a common ox, his fore feet measured nine inches across,
+and the hind feet were seven inches wide, and eleven and
+three quarters long, exclusive of the talons. One of these
+animals came within thirty yards of the camp last night, and
+carried off some buffaloe meat which we had placed on a
+pole. In the evening after the storm the water on this side
+of the river became of a deep crimson colour, probably
+caused by some stream above washing down a kind of soft
+red stone, which we observed in the neighbouring bluffs and
+gullies. At the camp below, the men who left us in the
+morning were busy in preparing their load for to-morrow,
+which were impeded by the rain, hail, and the hard wind
+from the northwest.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 28. The party all occupied in making the boat;
+they obtained a sufficient quantity of willow bark to line her,
+and over these were placed the elk skins, and when they
+failed we were obliged to use the buffaloe hide. The white
+bear have now become exceedingly troublesome; they constantly
+infest our camp during the night, and though they
+have not attacked us, as our dog who patroles all night gives
+us notice of their approach, yet we are obliged to sleep with
+our arms by our sides for fear of accident, and we cannot
+send one man alone to any distance, particularly if he has
+to pass through brushwood. We saw two of them to-day
+on the large island opposite to us, but as we are all so much
+occupied now, we mean to reserve ourselves for some leisure
+moment, and then make a party to drive them from the
+islands. The river has risen nine inches since our arrival
+here.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_284" id="Pg_284" title="Pg_284">[284]</a></span>At Portage creek captain Clarke completed the cache,
+in which we deposited whatever we could spare from our
+baggage; some ammunition, provisions, books, the specimens
+of plants and minerals, and a draught of the river from its
+entrance to fort Mandan. After closing it he broke up the
+encampment, and took on all the remaining baggage to the
+high plain, about three miles. Portage creek has risen
+considerably in consequence of the rain, and the water had
+become of a deep crimson colour, and ill tasted; on overtaking
+the canoe he found that there was more baggage than
+could be carried on the two carriages, and therefore left
+some of the heavy articles which could not be injured, and
+proceeded on to Willowrun where he encamped for the night.
+Here they made a supper on two buffaloe which they killed
+on the way; but passed the night in the rain, with a high
+wind from the southwest. In the morning,</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 29, finding it impossible to reach the end of
+the portage with their present load, in consequence of
+the state of the road after the rain, he sent back nearly
+all his party to bring on the articles which had been
+left yesterday. Having lost some notes and remarks
+which he had made on first ascending the river, he determined
+to go up to the Whitebear islands along its banks, in
+order to supply the deficiency. He there left one man to
+guard the baggage, and went on to the falls accompanied
+by his servant York, Chaboneau and his wife with her
+young child. On his arrival there he observed a very dark
+cloud rising in the west which threatened rain, and looked
+around for some shelter, but could find no place where they
+would be secure from being blown into the river if the wind
+should prove as violent as it sometimes does in the plains.
+At length about a quarter of a mile above the falls he found
+a deep ravine where there were some shelving rocks, under
+which he took refuge. They were on the upper side of the
+ravine near the river, perfectly safe from the rain, and therefore
+laid down their guns, compass, and other articles which
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_285" id="Pg_285" title="Pg_285">[285]</a></span>they carried with them. The shower was at first moderate,
+it then increased to a heavy rain, the effects of which they
+did not feel: soon after a torrent of rain and hail descended;
+the rain seemed to fall in a solid mass, and instantly collecting
+in the ravine came rolling down in a dreadful current,
+carrying the mud and rocks, and every thing that opposed
+it. Captain Clarke fortunately saw it a moment before it
+reached them, and springing up with his gun and shotpouch
+in his left hand, with his right clambered up the steep
+bluff, pushing on the Indian woman with her child in her
+arms; her husband too had seized her hand and was pulling
+her up the hill, but he was so terrified at the danger that
+but for captain Clark, himself and his wife and child
+would have been lost. So instantaneous was the rise of the
+water, that before captain Clark had reached his gun and
+began to ascend the bank, the water was up to his waist, and
+he could scarce get up faster than it rose, till it reached the
+height of fifteen feet with a furious current, which had they
+waited a moment longer would have swept them into the
+river just above the great falls, down which they must inevitable
+have been precipitated. They reached the plain in
+safety, and found York who had separated from them just
+before the storm to hunt some buffaloe, and was now returning
+to find his master. They had been obliged to escape
+so rapidly that captain Clarke lost his compass and umbrella.
+Chaboneau left his gun, shotpouch, and tomahawk, and
+the Indian woman had just time to grasp her child, before
+the net in which it lay at her feet was carried down the
+current. He now relinquished his intention of going up the
+river and returned to the camp at Willowrun. Here he found
+that the party sent this morning for the baggage, had all returned
+to camp in great confusion, leaving their loads in the
+plain. On account of the heat they generally go nearly naked,
+and with no covering on their heads. The hail was so large
+and driven so furiously against them by the high wind, that it
+knocked several of them down: one of them particularly was
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_286" id="Pg_286" title="Pg_286">[286]</a></span>thrown on the ground three times, and most of them bleeding
+freely and complained of being much bruised. Willow run
+had risen six feet since the rain, and as the plains were so
+wet that they could not proceed, they passed the night at
+their camp.</p>
+
+<p>At the Whitebear camp also, we had not been insensible
+to the hail-storm, though less exposed. In the morning
+there had been a heavy shower of rain, after which it became
+fair. After assigning to the men their respective employments,
+captain Lewis took one of them and went to see
+the large fountain near the falls. For about six miles he
+passed through a beautiful level plain, and then on reaching
+the break of the river hills, was overtaken by the gust
+of wind from the southwest attended by lightning, thunder,
+and rain: fearing a renewal of the scene on the 27th, they
+took shelter in a little gully where there were some broad
+stones with which they meant to protect themselves against
+the hail; but fortunately there was not much, and that of
+a small size; so that they felt no inconvenience except that
+of being exposed without shelter for an hour, and being
+drenched by the rain: after it was over they proceeded to
+the fountain which is perhaps the largest in America. It
+is situated in a pleasant level plain, about twenty-five yards
+from the river, into which it falls over some steep irregular
+rocks with a sudden ascent of about six feet in one part of
+its course. The water boils up from among the rocks and
+with such force near the centre, that the surface seems
+higher there than the earth on the sides of the fountain,
+which is a handsome turf of fine green grass. The water
+is extremely pure, cold and pleasant to the taste, not being
+impregnated with lime or any foreign substance. It is perfectly
+transparent and continues its bluish cast for half a
+mile down the Missouri, notwithstanding the rapidity of
+the river. After examining it for some time captain Lewis
+returned to the camp.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_287" id="Pg_287" title="Pg_287">[287]</a></span>Sunday 30. In the morning Captain Clarke sent the men
+to bring up the baggage left in the plains yesterday. On
+their return the axletrees and carriages were repaired,
+and the baggage, conveyed on the shoulders of the party
+across Willow run which had fallen as low as three feet.
+The carriages being then taken over, a load of baggage
+was carried to the six-mile stake, deposited there, and
+the carriages brought back. Such is the state of the plains
+that this operation consumed the day. Two men were sent
+to the falls to look for the articles lost yesterday; but they
+found nothing but the compass covered with mud and
+sand at the mouth of the ravine; the place at which captain
+Clarke had been caught by the storm, was filled with
+large rocks. The men complain much of the bruises received
+yesterday from the hail. A more than usual number
+of buffaloe appeared about the camp to-day, and furnished
+plenty of meat: captain Clarke thought that at one
+view he must have seen at least ten thousand. In the course
+of the day there was a heavy gust of wind from the southwest,
+after which the evening was fair.</p>
+
+<p>At the Whitebear camp we had a heavy dew this morning,
+which is quite a remarkable occurrence. The party
+continues to be occupied with the boat, the crossbars for
+which are now finished, and there remain only the strips
+to complete the wood work: the skins necessary to cover
+it have already been prepared and they amount to twenty-eight
+elk skins and four buffaloe skins. Among our game
+were two beaver, which we have had occasion to observe
+always are found wherever there is timber. We also killed
+a large bat or goatsucker of which there are many in this
+neighbourhood, resembling in every respect those of the
+same species in the United States. We have not seen the
+leather-winged bat for some time, nor are there any of the
+small goatsucker in this part of the Missouri. We have
+not seen either that species of goatsucker or nighthawk
+called the whippoorwill, which is commonly confounded
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_288" id="Pg_288" title="Pg_288">[288]</a></span>in the United States with the large goatsucker which we
+observe here; this last prepares no nest but lays its eggs in
+the open plains; they generally begin to sit on two eggs,
+and we believe raise only one brood in a season: at the present
+moment they are just hatching their young.</p>
+
+<p>Monday, July 1. After a severe day's work captain
+Clarke reached our camp in the evening, accompanied by
+his party and all the baggage except that left at the six-mile
+stake, for which they were too much fatigued to return.
+The route from the lower camp on Portage creek
+to that near Whitebear island, having been now measured
+and examined by captain Clarke was as follows:</p>
+
+<p>From our camp opposite the last considerable rapid to
+the entrance of Portage creek south 9&deg; east for three quarters
+of a mile: thence on a course south 10&deg; east for two
+miles, though for the canoes the best route is to the left of
+this course, and strikes Portage one mile and three quarters
+from its entrance, avoiding in this way a very steep hill
+which lies above Portage creek; from this south 18&deg; west
+for four miles, passing the head of a drain or ravine which
+falls into the Missouri below the great falls, and to the Willow
+run which has always a plentiful supply of good water
+and some timber: here the course turns to south 45&deg; west
+for four miles further; then south 66&deg; west three miles,
+crossing at the beginning of the course the head of a drain
+which falls into the Missouri at the Crooked Falls, and
+reaching an elevated point of the plain from which south
+42&deg; west. On approaching the river on this course there
+is a long and gentle descent from the high plain, after
+which the road turns a little to the right of the course up
+the river to our camp. The whole portage is seventeen
+and three quarter miles.</p>
+
+<p>At the Whitebear camp we were occupied with the boat
+and digging a pit for the purpose of making some tar. The
+day has been warm, and the mosquitoes troublesome. We
+were fortunate enough to observe equal altitudes of the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_289" id="Pg_289" title="Pg_289">[289]</a></span>sun with sextant, which since our arrival here we have been
+prevented from doing, by flying clouds and storms in the
+evening.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday, July 2d. A shower of rain fell very early this
+morning. We then despatched some men for the baggage
+left behind yesterday, and the rest were engaged in putting
+the boat together. This was accomplished in about three
+hours, and then we began to sew on the leather over the
+crossbars or iron on the inner side of the boat which form
+the ends of the sections. By two o'clock the last of the
+baggage arrived, to the great delight of the party who were
+anxious to proceed. The mosquitoes we find very troublesome.</p>
+
+<p>Having completed our celestial observations we went
+over to the large island to make an attack upon its inhabitants
+the bears, who have annoyed us very much of late,
+and who were prowling about our camp all last night. We
+found that the part of the island frequented by the bear
+forms an almost impenetrable thicket of the broad-leafed
+willow: into this we forced our way in parties of three; but
+could see only one bear, who instantly attacked Drewyer.
+Fortunately as he was rushing on the hunter shot him
+through the heart within twenty paces and he fell, which
+enabled Drewyer to get out of his way: we then followed
+him one hundred yards and found that the wound had been
+mortal. Not being able to discover any more of these animals
+we returned to camp: here in turning over some of the
+baggage we caught a rat somewhat larger than the common
+European rat, and of a lighter colour: the body and outer
+parts of the legs and head of a light lead colour; the inner
+side of the legs as well as the belly, feet and ears are white;
+the ears are not covered with hair, and are much larger
+than those of the common rat; the toes also are longer, the
+eyes black and prominent, the whiskers very long and full;
+the tail rather longer than the body, and covered with fine
+fur and hair of the same size with that on the back, which
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_290" id="Pg_290" title="Pg_290">[290]</a></span>is very close, short, and silky in its texture. This was the
+first we had met, although its nests are very frequent among
+the cliffs of rocks and hollow trees, where we also found
+large quantities of the shells and seed of the prickly pear,
+on which we conclude they chiefly subsist. The musquitoes
+are uncommonly troublesome. The wind was again
+high from the southwest: these winds are in fact always the
+coldest and most violent which we experience, and the hypothesis
+which we have formed on that subject is, that the
+air coming in contact with the Snowy mountains immediately
+becomes chilled and condensed, and being thus rendered
+heavier than the air below it descends into the rarified
+air below or into the vacuum formed by the constant action
+of the sun on the open unsheltered plains. The clouds rise
+suddenly near these mountains and distribute their contents
+partially over the neighbouring plains. The same
+cloud will discharge hail alone in one part, hail and rain in
+another, and rain only in a third, and all within the space
+of a few miles; while at the same time there is snow falling
+on the mountains to the southeast of us. There is at present
+no snow on those mountains; that which covered them
+on our arrival as well as that which has since fallen having
+disappeared. The mountains to the north and northwest of
+us are still entirely covered with snow, and indeed there
+has been no perceptible diminution of it since we first saw
+them, which induces a belief either that the clouds prevailing
+at this season do not reach their summits or that they
+deposit their snow only. They glisten with great beauty
+when the sun shines on them in a particular direction, and
+most probably from this glittering appearance have derived
+the name of the Shining mountains.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday, 3. Nearly the whole party were employed
+in different labours connected with the boat, which is
+now almost completed: but we have not as yet been able to
+obtain tar from our kiln, a circumstance that will occasion
+us not a little embarrassment. Having been told
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_291" id="Pg_291" title="Pg_291">[291]</a></span>by the Indians that on leaving the falls we should soon
+pass the buffaloe country, we have before us the prospect
+of fasting occasionally; but in order to provide a supply
+we sent out the hunters who killed only a buffaloe and
+two antelopes, which added to six beaver and two otter
+have been all our game for two or three days. At ten in
+the morning we had a light shower which scarcely wet
+the grass.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday, July 4th. The boat was now completed except
+what is in fact the most difficult part, the making her
+seams secure. We had intended to despatch a canoe with
+part of our men to the United States early this spring; but
+not having yet seen the Snake Indians, or knowing whether
+to calculate on their friendship or enmity, we have decided
+not to weaken our party which is already scarcely sufficient
+to repel any hostility. We were afraid too that such
+a measure might dishearten those who remain; and as we
+have never suggested it to them, they are all perfectly and
+enthusiastically attached to the enterprise, and willing
+to encounter any danger to ensure its success. We had a
+heavy dew this morning.</p>
+
+<p>Since our arrival at the falls we have repeatedly heard
+a strange noise coming from the mountains in a direction
+a little to the north of west. It is heard at different periods
+of the day and night, sometimes when the air is perfectly
+still and without a cloud, and consists of one stroke
+only, or of five or six discharges in quick succession. It
+is loud and resembles precisely the sound of a six pound
+piece of ordnance at the distance of three miles. The
+Minnetarees frequently mentioned this noise like thunder,
+which they said the mountains made; but we had paid no
+attention to it, believing it to have been some superstition
+or perhaps a falsehood. The watermen also of the party
+say that the Pawnees and Ricaras give the same account
+of a noise heard in the Black mountains to the westward of
+them. The solution of the mystery given by the philosophy
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_292" id="Pg_292" title="Pg_292">[292]</a></span>of the watermen is, that it is occasioned by the bursting
+of the rich mines of silver confined within the bosom
+of the mountain. An elk and a beaver are all that were killed
+to-day: the buffaloe seemed to have withdrawn from our
+neighbourhood, though several of the men who went to-day
+to visit the falls for the first time, mention that they are
+still abundant at that place. We contrived however to spread
+not a very sumptuous but a comfortable table in honour of
+the day, and in the evening gave the men a drink of spirits,
+which was the last of our stock. Some of them appeared
+sensible to the effects of even so small a quantity, and as is
+usual among them on all festivals, the fiddle was produced
+and a dance begun, which lasted till nine o'clock, when it
+was interrupted by a heavy shower of rain. They continued
+however their merriment till a late hour.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 5. The boat was brought up into a high situation
+and fires kindled under her in order to dry her more
+expeditiously. Despairing now of procuring any tar, we
+formed a composition of pounded charcoal with beeswax
+and buffaloe tallow to supply its place; should this resource
+fail us it will be very unfortunate, as in every other
+respect the boat answers our purposes completely. Although
+not quite dry she can be carried with ease by five
+men; her form is as complete as could be wished; very strong,
+and will carry at least eight thousand pounds with her complement
+of hands. Besides our want of tar, we have been
+unlucky in sewing the skins with a needle which had
+sharp edges instead of a point merely, although a large
+thong was used in order to fill the hole, yet it shrinks in
+drying and leaves the hole open, so that we fear the boat
+will leak.</p>
+
+<p>A large herd of buffaloe came near us and we procured
+three of them: besides which were killed two wolves and
+three antelopes. In the course of the day other herds of
+buffaloe came near our camp on their way down the river:
+these herds move with great method and regularity.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_293" id="Pg_293" title="Pg_293">[293]</a></span>Although ten or twelve herds are seen scattered from each
+other over a space of many miles, yet if they are undisturbed
+by pursuit they will be uniformly travelling in the
+same direction.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 6. Last night there were several showers of
+rain and hail, attended with thunder and lightning: and
+about day break a heavy storm came on from the southwest
+with one continued roar of thunder, and rain and hail. The
+hail which was as large as musket balls, covered the ground
+completely; and on collecting some of it, it lasted during
+the day and served to cool the water. The red and yellow
+currant is abundant and now ripe, although still a little
+acid. We have seen in this neighbourhood what we have
+not met before, a remarkably small fox which associates
+in bands and burrows in the prairie, like the small wolf, but
+have not yet been able to obtain any of them, as they are
+extremely vigilant, and betake themselves on the slightest
+alarm to their burrows which are very deep.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 7. The weather is warm but cloudy, so that
+the moisture retained by the bark after the rain leaves it
+slowly, though we have small fires constantly under the
+boat. We have no tents, and therefore are obliged to use
+the sails to keep off the bad weather. Our buffaloe skins
+too, are scarcely sufficient to cover our baggage, but the
+men are now dressing others to replace their present leather
+clothing, which soon rots by being so constantly exposed
+to water. In the evening the hunters returned with
+the skins of only three buffaloe, two antelope, four deer, and
+three wolf skins, and reported that the buffaloe had gone
+further down the river; two other hunters who left us this
+morning could find nothing except one elk: in addition to
+this we caught a beaver. The musquitoes still disturb us
+very much, and the blowing-flies swarm in vast numbers
+round the boat. At four in the afternoon we had a light
+shower of rain attended with some thunder and lightning.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_294" id="Pg_294" title="Pg_294">[294]</a></span>Monday 8. In order more fully to replace the notes of
+the river which he had lost, and which he was prevented
+from supplying by the storm of the twenty-ninth ult. captain
+Clarke set out after breakfast, taking with him nearly
+the whole party with a view of shooting buffaloe if there
+should be any near the falls. After getting some distance
+in the plains the men were divided into squads, and he with
+two others struck the Missouri at the entrance of Medicine
+river, and thence proceeded down to the great cataract. He
+found that the immense herds of buffaloe have entirely disappeared,
+and he thought had gone below the falls. Having
+made the necessary measurements, he returned through the
+plains and reached camp late in the evening; the whole party
+had killed only three buffaloe, three antelopes and a deer;
+they had also shot a small fox, and brought a living ground-squirrel
+somewhat larger than those of the United States.</p>
+
+<p>The day was warm and fair, but a slight rain fell in
+the afternoon. The boat having now become sufficiently dry,
+we gave it a coat of the composition, which after a proper
+interval was repeated, and the next morning,</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 9, she was launched into the water, and swam
+perfectly well: the seats were then fixed and the oars fitted;
+but after we had loaded her, as well as the canoes, and were
+on the point of setting out a violent wind caused the waves
+to wet the baggage, so that we were forced to unload them.
+The wind continued high till evening, when to our great
+disappointment we discovered that nearly all the composition
+had separated from the skins, and left the seams perfectly
+exposed; so that the boat now leaked very much. To
+repair this misfortune without pitch is impossible, and as
+none of that article is to be procured, we therefore, however
+reluctantly, are obliged to abandon her, after having
+had so much labour in the construction. We now saw that
+the section of the boat covered with buffaloe skins on which
+hair had been left, answered better than the elk skins and
+leaked but little; while that part which was covered
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_295" id="Pg_295" title="Pg_295">[295]</a></span>hair about one eighth of an inch, retained the composition
+perfectly, and remained sound and dry. From this we perceived
+that had we employed buffaloe instead of elk skins,
+and not singed them so closely as we have done, carefully
+avoiding to cut the leather in sewing, the boat would have
+been sufficient even with the present composition, or had we
+singed instead of shaving the elk skins we might have succeeded.
+But we discovered our error too late: the buffaloe
+had deserted us, the travelling season was so fast advancing
+that we had no time to spare for experiments, and therefore
+finding that she could be no longer useful she was sunk
+in the water, so as to soften the skins and enable us the
+more easily to take her to pieces. It now became necessary
+to provide other means for transporting the baggage which
+we had intended to stow in her. For this purpose we shall
+want two canoes, but for many miles below the mouth of
+the Muscleshell river to this place, we have not seen a single
+tree fit to be used in that way. The hunters however
+who had hitherto been sent after timber, mention that there
+is a low ground on the opposite side of the river, about eight
+miles above us by land, and more than twice that distance
+by water, in which we may probably find trees large enough
+for our purposes. Captain Clarke therefore determined to
+set out by land for that place with ten of the best workmen
+who would be occupied in building the canoes till the rest of
+the party, after taking the boat to pieces and making the
+necessary deposits, should transport the baggage and join
+them with the other six canoes.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 10. He accordingly passed over to the opposite
+side of the river with his party, and proceeded on eight miles
+by land, the distance by water being twenty-three and three
+quarter miles. Here he found two cottonwood trees, but on
+cutting them down, one proved to be hollow, split at the top
+in falling, and both were much damaged at the bottom. He
+searched the neighbourhood but could find none which would
+suit better, and therefore was obliged to make use of those
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_296" id="Pg_296" title="Pg_296">[296]</a></span>which he had felled, shortening them in order to avoid the
+cracks, and supplying the deficiency by making them as wide
+as possible. They were equally at a loss for wood of which
+they might make handles for their axes, the eyes of which
+not being round they were obliged to split the timber in such
+a manner that thirteen of the handles broke in the course of
+the day, though made of the best wood they could find for
+the purpose, which was the chokecherry.</p>
+
+<p>The rest of the party took the frame of the boat to pieces,
+deposited it in a cache or hole, with a draught of the
+country from fort Mandan to this place, and also some other
+papers and small articles of less importance. After this we
+amused ourselves with fishing, and although we had thought
+on our arrival that there were none in this part of the river,
+we caught some of a species of white chub below the falls,
+but few in number, and small in size.</p>
+
+<p>Serjeant Ordway with four canoes and eight men had
+set sail in the morning, with part of the baggage to the
+place where captain Clarke had fixed his camp, but the
+wind was so high that he only reached within three miles
+of that place, and encamped for the night.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday, July 11. In the morning one of the canoes
+joined captain Clarke: the other three having on board more
+valuable articles, which would have been injured by the water,
+went on more cautiously, and did not reach the camp
+till the evening. Captain Clarke then had the canoes unloaded
+and sent back, but the high wind prevented their floating
+down nearer than about eight miles above us. His party
+were busily engaged with the canoes, and their hunters
+supplied them with three fat deer and a buffaloe, in addition
+to two deer and an antelope killed yesterday. The few men
+who were with captain Lewis were occupied in hunting,
+but with not much success, having killed only one buffaloe.
+They heard about sunset two discharges of the tremendous
+mountain artillery: they also saw several very
+large gray eagles, much larger than those of the United
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_297" id="Pg_297" title="Pg_297">[297]</a></span>States, and most probably a distinct species, though the bald
+eagle of this country is not quite so large as that of the
+United States. The men have been much afflicted with
+painful whitlows, and one of them disabled from working by
+this complaint in his hand.</p>
+
+<p>Friday, 12. In consequence of the wind the canoes did not
+reach the lower camp till late in the afternoon, before which
+time captain Lewis sent all the men he could spare up the
+river to assist in building the boats, and the day was too far
+advanced to reload and send them up before morning. The
+mosquitoes are very troublesome, and they have a companion
+not less so, a large black gnat which does not sting, but attacks
+the eyes in swarms. The party with captain Clarke
+are employed on the canoes: in the course of the work serjeant
+Pryor dislocated his shoulder yesterday, but it was
+replaced immediately, and though painful does not threaten
+much injury. The hunters brought in three deer and two
+otter. This last animal has been numerous since the water
+has become sufficiently clear for them to take fish. The
+blue-crested fisher, or as it is sometimes called, the kingfisher,
+is an inhabitant of this part of the river; it is a bird
+rare on the Missouri: indeed we had not seen more than
+three or four of them from its entrance to Maria's river,
+and even those did not seem to reside on the Missouri but on
+some of the clearer streams which empty into it, as they
+were seen near the mouths of those streams.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 13. The morning being fair and calm captain
+Lewis had all the remaining baggage embarked on board the
+six canoes, which sailed with two men in each for the upper
+camp. Then with a sick man and the Indian woman, he
+left the encampment, and crossing over the river went on
+by land to join captain Clarke. From the head of the Whitebear
+islands he proceeded in a southwest direction, at the
+distance of three miles, till he struck the Missouri, which
+he then followed till he reached the place where all the party
+were occupied in boat-building. On his way he passed a very
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_298" id="Pg_298" title="Pg_298">[298]</a></span>large Indian lodge, which was probably designed as a
+great council-house, but it differs in its construction from all
+that we have seen lower down the Missouri or elsewhere.
+The form of it was a circle two hundred and sixteen feet in
+circumference at the base, and composed of sixteen large
+cottonwood poles about fifty feet long, and at their thicker
+ends, which touched the ground, about the size of a man's
+body: they were distributed at equal distances, except that
+one was omitted to the east, probably for the entrance. From
+the circumference of this circle the poles converged towards
+the centre where they were united and secured by large
+withes of willow brush. There was no covering over this
+fabric, in the centre of which were the remains of a large
+fire, and round it the marks of about eighty leathern lodges.
+He also saw a number of turtledoves, and some pigeons,
+of which he shot one differing in no respect from the wild
+pigeon of the United States. The country exhibits its usual
+appearances, the timber confined to the river, the country
+on both sides as far as the eye can reach being entirely
+destitute of trees or brush. In the low ground in which we
+are building the canoes, the timber is larger and more abundant
+than we have seen it on the Missouri for several hundred
+miles. The soil too is good, for the grass and weeds
+reach about two feet high, being the tallest we have observed
+this season, though on the high plains and prairies the
+grass is at no season above three inches in height. Among
+these weeds are the sandrush, and nettle in small quantities;
+the plains are still infested by great numbers of the small
+birds already mentioned, among whom is the brown curlew.
+The current of the river is here extremely gentle; the buffaloe
+have not yet quite gone, for the hunters brought in three
+in very good order. It requires some diligence to supply us
+plentifully, for as we reserve our parched meal for the Rocky
+mountains, where we do not expect to find much game, our
+principal article of food is meat, and the consumption of the
+whole thirty-two persons belonging to the party, amounts
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_299" id="Pg_299" title="Pg_299">[299]</a></span>to four deer, an elk and a deer, one buffaloe every twenty
+four hours. The musquitoes and gnats persecute us as
+violently as below, so that we can get no sleep unless defended
+by biers, with which we are all provided. We here
+found several plants hitherto unknown to us, and of which
+we preserved specimens.</p>
+
+<p>Serjeant Ordway proceeded with the six canoes five
+miles up the river, but the wind becoming so high as to wet
+the baggage he was obliged to unload and dry it. The wind
+abated at five o'clock in the evening, when he again proceeded
+eight miles and encamped. The next morning,</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, July 14, he joined us about noon. On leaving
+the Whitebear camp he passed at a short distance a little
+creek or run coming in on the left. This had been already
+examined and called Flattery run; it contains back water
+only, with very extensive low grounds, which rising into
+large plains reach the mountains on the east; then passed a
+willow island on the left within one mile and a half, and
+reached two miles further a cliff of rocks in a bend on the
+same side. In the course of another mile and a half he passed
+two islands covered with cottonwood, box-alder, sweet-willow,
+and the usual undergrowth, like that of the Whitebear
+islands. At thirteen and three quarter miles he came
+to the mouth of a small creek on the left; within the following
+nine miles he passed three timbered islands, and after
+making twenty-three and a quarter miles from the lower
+camp, arrived at the point of woodland on the north where
+the canoes were constructed.</p>
+
+<p>The day was fair and warm; the men worked very industriously,
+and were enabled by the evening to lanch the
+boats, which now want only seats and oars to be complete.
+One of them is twenty-five, the other thirty-three feet in
+length and three feet wide. Captain Lewis walked out between
+three and four miles over the rocky bluffs to a high
+situation, two miles from the river, a little below Fort
+Mountain creek. The country which he saw was in most parts
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_300" id="Pg_300" title="Pg_300">[300]</a></span>level, but occasionally became varied by gentle rises and
+descents, but with no timber except along the water. From
+this position, the point at which the Missouri enters the
+first chain of the Rocky mountains bore south 28&deg; west
+about twenty-five miles, according to our estimate.</p>
+
+<p>The northern extremity of that chain north 73&deg; west at
+the distance of eighty miles.</p>
+
+<p>To the same extremity of the second chain north 65&deg;
+west one hundred and fifty miles.</p>
+
+<p>To the most remote point of a third and continued chain
+of these mountains north 50&deg; west about two hundred miles.</p>
+
+<p>The direction of the first chain was from south 20&deg; east
+to north 20&deg; west; of the second, from south 45&deg; east to
+north 45&deg; west; but the eye could not reach their southern
+extremities, which most probably may be traced to Mexico.
+In a course south 75&deg; west, and at the distance of eight
+miles is a mountain, which from its appearance we shall call
+Fort Mountain. It is situated in the level plain, and forms
+nearly a square, each side of which is a mile in extent.
+These sides, which are composed of a yellow clay with no
+mixture of rock or stone whatever, rise perpendicularly to
+the height of three hundred feet, where the top becomes a
+level plain covered, as captain Lewis now observed, with a
+tolerably fertile mould two feet thick, on which was a coat
+of grass similar to that of the plain below: it has the appearance
+of being perfectly inaccessible, and although the
+mounds near the falls somewhat resemble it, yet none of
+them are so large.</p>
+
+
+<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p>
+
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_301" id="Pg_301" title="Pg_301">[301]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<!-- ROUTE MAP -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173"
+        alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The party embark on board the canoes&mdash;Description of Smith's river&mdash;Character
+of the country, &amp;c.&mdash;Dearborne's river described&mdash;Captain Clarke precedes
+the party for the purpose of discovering the Indians of the Rocky
+mountains&mdash;Magnificent rocky appearances on the borders of the river denominated
+the Gates of the Rocky mountains&mdash;Captain Clarke arrives at the
+three forks of the Missouri without overtaking the Indians&mdash;The party arrive
+at the three forks, of which a particular and interesting description is
+given.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>Monday, July 15. We rose early, embarked all our baggage
+on board the canoes, which though light in number are
+still heavily loaded, and at ten o'clock set out on our journey.
+At the distance of three miles we passed an island, just above
+which is a small creek coming in from the left, which we
+called Fort Mountain creek, the channel of which is ten
+yards wide but now perfectly dry. At six miles we came to
+an island opposite to a bend towards the north side; and
+reached at seven and a half miles the lower point of a
+woodland at the entrance of a beautiful river, which in honour
+of the secretary of the navy we called Smith's river.
+This stream falls into a bend on the south side of the
+Missouri, and is eighty yards wide. As far as we could
+discern its course it wound through a charming valley
+towards the southeast, in which many herds of buffaloe
+were feeding, till at the distance of twenty five miles it
+entered the Rocky mountains, and was lost from our view.
+After dining near this place we proceeded on four and
+three quarter miles to the head of an island; four and a
+quarter miles beyond which is a second island on the left;
+three and a quarter miles further in a bend of the river
+towards the north, is a wood where we encamped for the
+night, after making nineteen and three quarter miles.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_302" id="Pg_302" title="Pg_302">[302]</a></span>We find the prickly pear, one of the greatest beauties
+as well as the greatest inconveniences of the plains,
+now in full bloom. The sunflower too, a plant common
+on every part of the Missouri from its entrance to this
+place, is here very abundant and in bloom. The lambsquarter,
+wild-cucumber, sandrush, and narrowdock are also
+common. Two elk, a deer, and an otter, were our game
+to-day.</p>
+
+<p>The river has now become so much more crooked
+than below that we omit taking all its short meanders,
+but note only its general course, and lay down the small
+bends on our daily chart by the eye. The general width
+is from one hundred to one hundred and fifty yards. Along
+the banks are large beds of sand raised above the plains,
+and as they always appear on the sides of the river opposite
+to the southwest exposure, seem obviously brought
+there from the channel of the river by the incessant winds
+from that quarter: we find also more timber than for a great
+distance below the falls.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 16. There was a heavy dew last night. We
+soon passed about forty little booths, formed of willow
+bushes as a shelter against the sun. These seemed to have
+been deserted about ten days, and as we supposed by the
+Snake Indians, or Shoshonees, whom we hope soon to meet,
+as they appeared from the tracks to have a number of
+horses with them. At three and three quarter miles we
+passed a creek or run in a bend on the left side, and four
+miles further another run or small rivulet on the right. After
+breakfasting on a buffaloe shot by one of the hunters,
+captain Lewis resolved to go on ahead of the party to the
+point where the river enters the Rocky mountains and
+make the necessary observations before our arrival. He
+therefore set out with Drewyer and two of the sick men
+to whom he supposed the walk would be useful: he travelled
+on the north side of the river through a handsome level
+plain, which continued on the opposite side also, and at the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_303" id="Pg_303" title="Pg_303">[303]</a></span>distance of eight miles passed a small stream on which he
+observed a considerable quantity of the aspen tree. A little
+before twelve o'clock he halted on a bend to the north in a
+low ground well covered with timber, about four and a
+half miles below the mountains, and obtained a meridian
+altitude, by which he found the latitude was N. 46&deg; 46' 50" 2"'.
+His route then lay through a high waving plain to a
+rapid where the Missouri first leaves the Rocky mountains,
+and here he encamped for the night.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime we had proceeded after breakfast one
+mile to a bend in the left, opposite to which was the frame
+of a large lodge situated in the prairie, constructed like that
+already mentioned above the Whitebear islands, but only
+sixty feet in diameter: round it were the remains of about
+eighty leathern lodges, all which seemed to have been
+built during the last autumn; within the next fifteen and a
+quarter miles we passed ten islands, on the last of which
+we encamped near the right shore, having made twenty-three
+miles. The next morning,</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 17, we set out early, and at four miles distance
+joined captain Lewis at foot of the rapids, and
+after breakfast began the passage of them: some of the articles
+most liable to be injured by the water were carried
+round. We then double manned the canoes, and with
+the aid of the towing-line got them up without accident.
+For several miles below the rapids the current of the Missouri
+becomes stronger as you approach, and the spurs of
+the mountains advance towards the river, which is deep and
+not more than seventy yards wide: at the rapids the river
+is closely hemmed in on both sides by the hills, and foams
+for half a mile over the rocks which obstruct its channel.
+The low grounds are now not more than a few yards in
+width, but they furnish room for an Indian road which
+winds under the hills on the north side of the river. The
+general range of these hills is from southeast to northwest,
+and the cliffs themselves are about eight hundred feet above
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_304" id="Pg_304" title="Pg_304">[304]</a></span>the water, formed almost entirely of a hard black granite,
+on which are scattered a few dwarf pine and cedar trees.
+Immediately in the gap is a large rock four hundred feet
+high, which on one side is washed by the Missouri, while on
+its other sides a handsome little plain separates it from the
+neighbouring mountains. It may be ascended with some difficulty
+nearly to its summit, and affords a beautiful prospect
+of the plains below, in which we could observe large herds
+of buffaloe. After ascending the rapids for half a mile we
+came to a small island at the head of them, which we called
+Pine island from a large pine tree at the lower end of it,
+which is the first we have seen near the river for a great
+distance. A mile beyond captain Lewis's camp we had a meridian
+altitude which gave us the latitude of 46&deg; 42' 14" 7"'.
+As the canoes were still heavily loaded all those not employed
+in working them walked on shore. The navigation
+is now very laborious. The river is deep but with little
+current and from seventy to one hundred yards wide; the
+low grounds are very narrow, with but little timber and
+that chiefly the aspen tree. The cliffs are steep and hang
+over the river so much that often we could not cross them,
+but were obliged to pass and repass from one side of the
+river to the other in order to make our way. In some places
+the banks are formed of rocks, of dark black granite rising
+perpendicularly to a great height, through which the river
+seems in the progress of time to have worn its channel. On
+these mountains we see more pine than usual, but it is still
+in small quantities. Along the bottoms, which have a covering
+of high grass, we observe the sunflower blooming in
+great abundance. The Indians of the Missouri, and more
+especially those who do not cultivate maize, make great
+use of the seed of this plant for bread or in thickening their
+soup. They first parch and then pound it between two
+stones until it is reduced to a fine meal. Sometimes they
+add a portion of water, and drink it thus diluted: at other
+times they add a sufficient proportion of marrow grease to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_305" id="Pg_305" title="Pg_305">[305]</a></span>reduce it to the consistency of common dough and eat it in
+that manner. This last composition we preferred to all the
+rest, and thought it at that time a very palatable dish.
+There is however little of the broad-leafed cottonwood on
+this side of the falls, much the greater part of what we
+see being of the narrow-leafed species. There are also
+great quantities of red, purple, yellow and black currants.
+The currants are very pleasant to the taste, and much preferable
+to those of our common garden. The bush rises to
+the height of six or eight feet; the stem simple, branching
+and erect. These shrubs associate in corps either in upper
+or timbered lands near the water courses. The leaf is peteolate,
+of a pale green, and in form resembles the red currant
+so common in our gardens. The perianth of the fruit
+is one leaved, five cleft, abbriviated and tubular. The corolla
+is monopetallous, funnel-shaped, very long, and of a fine
+orange colour. There are five stamens and one pistillum
+of the first, the filaments are capillar, inserted in the corolla,
+equal and converging, the anther ovate and incumbent.
+The germ of the second species is round, smooth, inferior
+and pidicelled: the style long and thicker than the stamens,
+simple, cylindrical, smooth and erect. It remains with the
+corolla until the fruit is ripe, the stamen is simple and obtuse,
+and the fruit much the size and shape of our common
+garden currants, growing like them in clusters supported by
+a compound footstalk. The peduncles are longer in this
+species, and the berries are more scattered. The fruit is not
+so acid as the common currant, and has a more agreeable
+flavour.</p>
+
+<p>The other species differs in no respect from the yellow
+currant excepting in the colour and flavour of the berries.</p>
+
+<p>The serviceberry differs in some points from that of the
+United States. The bushes are small, sometimes not more
+than two feet high, and rarely exceed eight inches. They are
+proportionably small in their stems, growing very thickly, associated
+in clumps. The fruit is of the same form, but for
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_306" id="Pg_306" title="Pg_306">[306]</a></span>the most part larger and of a very dark purple. They
+are now ripe and in great perfection. There are two
+species of gooseberry here, but neither of them yet ripe:
+nor are the chokecherry, though in great quantities.
+Besides there are also at that place the box alder, red willow
+and a species of sumach. In the evening we saw some
+mountain rams or big-horned animals, but no other game of
+any sort. After leaving Pine island we passed a small run
+on the left, which is formed by a large spring rising at the
+distance of half a mile under the mountain. One mile and
+a half above the island is another, and two miles further a
+third island, the river making small bends constantly to the
+north. From this last island to a point of rocks on the
+south side the low grounds become rather wider, and three
+quarters of a mile beyond these rocks, in a bend on the
+north, we encamped opposite to a very high cliff, having
+made during the day eleven and a half miles.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 18. This morning early before our departure
+we saw a large herd of the big-horned animals, who
+were bounding among the rocks in the opposite cliff with
+great agility. These inaccessible spots secure them from
+all their enemies, and the only danger is in wandering
+among these precipices, where we should suppose it scarcely
+possible for any animal to stand; a single false step
+would precipitate them at least five hundred feet into the
+water. At one mile and a quarter we passed another single
+cliff on the left; at the same distance beyond which is
+the mouth of a large river emptying itself from the north.
+It is a handsome, bold, and clear stream, eighty yards wide,
+that is nearly as broad as the Missouri, with a rapid current
+over a bed of small smooth stones of various figures.
+The water is extremely transparent, the low grounds are
+narrow, but possess as much wood as those of the Missouri;
+and it has every appearance of being navigable, though to
+what distance we cannot ascertain, as the country which
+it waters, is broken and mountainous. In honour of the secretary
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_307" id="Pg_307" title="Pg_307">[307]</a></span>at war we called it Dearborn's river. Being now
+very anxious to meet with the Shoshonees or Snake Indians,
+for the purpose of obtaining the necessary information of
+our route, as well as to procure horses, it was thought best
+for one of us to go forward with a small party and endeavour
+to discover them, before the daily discharge of our
+guns, which is necessary for our subsistence, should give
+them notice of our approach: if by an accident they hear
+us, they will most probably retreat to the mountains, mistaking
+us for their enemies who usually attack them on this
+side. Accordingly captain Clarke set out with three men,
+and followed the course of the river on the north side; but
+the hills were so steep at first that he was not able to go
+much faster than ourselves. In the evening however he cut
+off many miles of the circuitous course of the river, by
+crossing a mountain over which he found a wide Indian
+road which in many places seems to have been cut or dug
+down in the earth. He passed also two branches of a
+stream which he called Ordway's creek, where he saw a
+number of beaver-dams extending in close succession towards
+the mountains as far as he could distinguish: on the
+cliffs were many of the big-horned animals. After crossing
+this mountain he encamped near a small stream of running
+water, having travelled twenty miles.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving Dearborn's river we passed at three and a
+half miles a small creek, and at six beyond it an island on
+the north side of the river, which makes within that distance
+many small bends. At two and a half miles further
+is another island: three quarters of a mile beyond this is a
+small creek on the north side. At a mile and a half above
+the creek is a much larger stream thirty yards wide, and
+discharging itself with a bold current on the north side: the
+banks are low, and the bed formed of stones altogether.
+To this stream we gave the name of Ordway's creek, after
+serjeant John Ordway. At two miles beyond this the valley
+widens: we passed several bends of the river, and encamped
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_308" id="Pg_308" title="Pg_308">[308]</a></span>in the centre of one on the south, having made
+twenty-one miles. Here we found a small grove of the narrow-leafed
+cottonwood, there being no longer any of the
+broad-leafed kind since we entered the mountains. The
+water of these rivulets which come down from the mountains
+is very cold, pure, and well tasted. Along their banks
+as well as on the Missouri the aspen is very common, but of
+a small kind. The river is somewhat wider than we found
+it yesterday; the hills more distant from the river and not
+so high; there are some pines on the mountains, but they
+are principally confined to the upper regions of them: the
+low grounds are still narrower and have little or no timber.
+The soil near the river is good, and produces a luxuriant
+growth of grass and weeds; among these productions the
+sunflower holds a very distinguished place. For several
+days past we have observed a species of flax in the low
+grounds, the leaf-stem and pericarp of which resemble those
+of the flax commonly cultivated in the United States: the
+stem rises to the height of two and a half or three feet, and
+spring to the number of eight or ten from the same root,
+with a strong thick bark apparently well calculated for use:
+the root seems to be perennial, and it is probable that the
+cutting of the stems may not at all injure it, for although
+the seeds are not yet ripe, there are young suckers shooting
+up from the root, whence we may infer that the stems
+which are fully grown and in the proper stage of vegetation
+to produce the best flax, are not essential to the preservation
+or support of the root, a circumstance which would
+render it a most valuable plant. To-day we have met with
+a second species of flax smaller than the first, as it seldom
+obtains a greater height than nine or twelve inches: the
+leaf and stem resemble those of the species just mentioned,
+except that the latter is rarely branched, and bears a single
+monopetalous bell-shaped blue flower, suspended with its
+limb downwards. We saw several herds of the big-horn, but
+they were in the cliffs beyond our reach. We killed an elk
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_309" id="Pg_309" title="Pg_309">[309]</a></span>this morning and found part of a deer which had been left
+for us by captain Clarke. He pursued his route,</p>
+
+<p>Friday, 19, early in the morning, and soon passed the
+remains of several Indian camps formed of willow brush,
+which seemed to have been deserted this spring. At the
+same time he observed that the pine trees had been stripped
+of their bark about the same season, which our Indian
+woman say her countrymen do in order to obtain the sap
+and the soft parts of the wood and bark for food. About
+eleven o'clock he met a herd of elk and killed two of them,
+but such was the want of wood in the neighbourhood that
+he was unable to procure enough to make a fire, and he was
+therefore obliged to substitute the dung of the buffaloe,
+with which he cooked his breakfast. They then resumed
+their course along an old Indian road. In the afternoon they
+reached a handsome valley watered by a large creek, both
+of which extend a considerable distance into the mountain:
+this they crossed, and during the evening travelled over a
+mountainous country covered with sharp fragments of flint-rock:
+these bruised and cut their feet very much, but were
+scarcely less troublesome than the prickly pear of the open
+plains, which have now become so abundant that it is impossible
+to avoid them, and the thorns are so strong that
+they pierce a double soal of dressed deer skin: the best resource
+against them is a soal of buffaloe hide in parchment.
+At night they reached the river much fatigued, having passed
+two mountains in the course of the day and having travelled
+thirty miles. Captain Clarke's first employment on
+lighting a fire was to extract from his feet the briars, which
+he found seventeen in number.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime we proceeded on very well, though the
+water appears to increase in rapidity as we advance: the
+current has indeed been strong during the day and obstructed
+by some rapids, which are not however much broken by
+rocks, and are perfectly safe: the river is deep, and its
+general width is from one hundred to one hundred and fifty
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_310" id="Pg_310" title="Pg_310">[310]</a></span>yards wide. For more than thirteen miles we went along
+the numerous bends of the river and then reached two small
+islands; three and three quarter miles beyond which is a
+small creek in a bend to the left, above a small island on the
+right side of the river. We were regaled about ten o'clock
+P.M. with a thunder storm of rain and hail which lasted
+for an hour, but during the day in this confined valley,
+through which we are passing, the heat is almost insupportable;
+yet whenever we obtain a glimpse of the lofty tops of
+the mountains we are tantalized with a view of the snow.
+These mountains have their sides and summits partially
+varied with little copses of pine, cedar, and balsam fir. A
+mile and a half beyond this creek the rocks approach the
+river on both sides, forming a most sublime and extraordinary
+spectacle. For five and three quarter miles these
+rocks rise perpendicularly from the water's edge to the
+height of nearly twelve hundred feet. They are composed
+of a black granite near its base, but from its lighter colour
+above and from the fragments we suppose the upper part
+to be flint of a yellowish brown and cream colour. Nothing
+can be imagined more tremendous than the frowning darkness
+of these rocks, which project over the river and menace
+us with destruction. The river, of one hundred and fifty
+yards in width, seems to have forced its channel down this
+solid mass, but so reluctantly has it given way that during
+the whole distance the water is very deep even at the edges,
+and for the first three miles there is not a spot except one
+of a few yards, in which a man could stand between the
+water and the towering perpendicular of the mountain: the
+convulsion of the passage must have been terrible, since at
+its outlet there are vast columns of rock torn from the
+mountain which are strewed on both sides of the river, the
+trophies as it were of the victory. Several fine springs
+burst out from the chasms of the rock, and contribute to
+increase the river, which has now a strong current, but very
+fortunately we are able to overcome it with our oars, since
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_311" id="Pg_311" title="Pg_311">[311]</a></span>it would be impossible to use either the cord or the pole.
+We were obliged to go on some time after dark, not being
+able to find a spot large enough to encamp on, but at length
+about two miles above a small inland in the middle of the
+river we met with a spot on the left side, where we procured
+plenty of lightwood and pitchpine. This extraordinary
+range of rocks we called the Gates of the Rocky mountains.
+We had made twenty-two miles; and four and a quarter
+miles from the entrance of the gates. The mountains
+are higher to-day than they were yesterday. We saw some
+big-horns, a few antelopes and beaver, but since entering
+the mountains have found no buffaloe: the otter are however
+in great plenty: the musquitoes have become less troublesome
+than they were.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 20. By employing the towrope whenever the
+banks permitted the use of it, the river being too deep for
+the pole, we were enabled to overcome the current which
+is still strong. At the distance of half a mile we came to
+a high rock in a bend to the left in the Gates. Here the
+perpendicular rocks cease, the hills retire from the river,
+and the vallies suddenly widen to a greater extent than
+they have been since we entered the mountains. At this
+place was some scattered timber, consisting of the narrow-leafed
+cottonwood, the aspen, and pine. There are also
+vast quantities of gooseberries, serviceberries, and several
+species of currant, among which is one of a black colour, the
+flavour of which is preferable to that of the yellow, and
+would be deemed superior to that of any currant in the United
+States. We here killed an elk which was a pleasant
+addition to our stock of food. At a mile from the Gates, a
+large creek comes down from the mountains and empties
+itself behind an island in the middle of a bend to the north.
+To this stream which is fifteen yards wide we gave the name
+of Potts's creek, after John Potts, one of our men. Up this
+valley about seven miles we discovered a great smoke, as
+if the whole country had been set on fire; but were at a loss
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_312" id="Pg_312" title="Pg_312">[312]</a></span>to decide whether it had been done accidentally by captain
+Clarke's party, or by the Indians as a signal on their observing
+us. We afterwards learnt that this last was the
+fact; for they had heard a gun fired by one of captain
+Clarke's men, and believing that their enemies were approaching
+had fled into the mountains, first setting fire to
+the plains as a warning to their countrymen. We continued
+our course along several islands, and having made in the
+course of the day fifteen miles, encamped just above an
+island, at a spring on a high bank on the left side of the
+river. In the latter part of the evening we had passed
+through a low range of mountains, and the country became
+more open, though still unbroken and without timber, and
+the lowlands not very extensive: and just above our camp
+the river is again closed in by the mountains. We found on
+the banks an elk which captain Clarke had left us, with a
+note mentioning that he should pass the mountains just
+above us and wait our arrival at some convenient place. We
+saw but could not procure some redheaded ducks and sandhill
+cranes along the sides of the river, and a woodpecker
+about the size of the lark-woodpecker, which seems to be
+a distinct species: it is as black as a crow with a long tail,
+and flies like a jaybird. The whole country is so infested
+by the prickly pear that we could scarcely find room to lie
+down at our camp.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Clarke on setting out this morning had gone
+through the valley about six miles to the right of the river.
+He soon fell into an old Indian road which he pursued till
+he reached the Missouri, at the distance of eighteen miles
+from his last encampment, just above the entrance of a large
+creek, which we afterwards called Whiteearth creek. Here
+he found his party so much cut and pierced with the sharp
+flint and the prickly pear that he proceeded only a small
+distance further, and then halted to wait for us. Along his
+track he had taken the precaution to strew signals, such as
+pieces of cloth, paper and linen, to prove to the Indians, if by
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_313" id="Pg_313" title="Pg_313">[313]</a></span>accident they met his track, that we were white men. But
+he observed a smoke some distance ahead, and concluded
+that the whole country had now taken the alarm.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 21. On leaving our camp we passed an island at
+half a mile, and reached at one mile a bad rapid at the place
+where the river leaves the mountain: here the cliffs are high
+and covered with fragments of broken rocks, the current is
+also strong, but although more rapid the river is wider and
+shallower, so that we are able to use the pole occasionally,
+though we principally depend on the towline. On leaving
+this rapid which is about half a mile in extent, the country
+opens on each side; the hills become lower; at one mile is
+a large island on the left side, and four and a half beyond
+it a large and bold creek twenty-eight yards wide, coming
+in from the north, where it waters a handsome valley: we
+called it Pryor's creek after one of the sergeants, John
+Pryor. At a mile above this creek on the left side of the
+Missouri we obtained a meridian altitude, which gave 46&deg;
+10' 32" 9"' as the latitude of the place. For the following
+four miles, the country, like that through which we
+passed during the rest of the day, is rough and mountainous
+as we found it yesterday; but at the distance of
+twelve miles, we came towards evening into a beautiful
+plain ten or twelve miles wide and extending as far the eye
+could reach. This plain or rather valley is bounded by two
+nearly parallel ranges of high mountains whose summits
+are partially covered with snow, below which the pine is
+scattered along the sides down to the plain in some places,
+though the greater part of their surface has no timber and
+exhibits only a barren soil with no covering except dry
+parched grass or black rugged rocks. On entering the valley
+the river assumes a totally different aspect; it spreads
+to more than a mile in width, and though more rapid than
+before, is shallow enough in almost every part for the use
+of the pole, while its bed is formed of smooth stones and
+some large rocks, as it has been indeed since we entered
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_314" id="Pg_314" title="Pg_314">[314]</a></span>the mountains: it is also divided by a number of islands
+some of which are large near the northern shore. The soil
+of the valley is a rich black loam apparently very fertile,
+and covered with a fine green grass about eighteen inches
+or two feet in height; while that of the high grounds is perfectly
+dry and seems scorched by the sun. The timber
+though still scarce is in greater quantities in this valley than
+we have seen it since entering the mountains, and seems to
+prefer the borders of the small creeks to the banks of the
+river itself. We advanced three and a half miles in this
+valley and encamped on the left side, having made in all
+fifteen and a half miles.</p>
+
+<p>Our only large game to-day was one deer. We saw however
+two pheasants of a dark brown colour, much larger
+than the same species of bird in the United States. In the
+morning too, we saw three swans which, like the geese,
+have not yet recovered the feathers of the wing, and were
+unable to fly: we killed two of them, and the third escaped
+by diving and passing down the current. These are the first
+we have seen on the river for a great distance, and as they
+had no young with them, we presume that they do not breed
+in this neighbourhood. Of the geese we daily see great
+numbers, with their young perfectly feathered except on
+the wings, where both young and old are deficient; the first
+are very fine food, but the old ones are poor and unfit for
+use. Several of the large brown or sandhill crane are feeding
+in the low grounds on the grass which forms their principal
+food. The young crane cannot fly at this season: they
+are as large as a turkey, of a bright reddish bay colour. Since
+the river has become shallow we have caught a number of
+trout to-day, and a fish, white on the belly and sides, but of
+a bluish cast on the back, and a long pointed mouth opening
+somewhat like that of the shad.</p>
+
+<p>This morning captain Clarke wishing to hunt but fearful
+of alarming the Indians, went up the river for three
+miles, when finding neither any of them nor of their recent
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_315" id="Pg_315" title="Pg_315">[315]</a></span>tracks returned, and then his little party separated to look
+for game. They killed two bucks and a doe, and a young
+curlew nearly feathered: in the evening they found the musquitoes
+as troublesome as we did: these animals attack us
+as soon as the labours and fatigues of the day require some
+rest, and annoy us till several hours after dark, when the
+coldness of the air obliges them to disappear; but such is
+their persecution that were it not for our biers we should
+obtain no repose.</p>
+
+<p>Monday, 22. We set out at an early hour. The river
+being divided into so many channels by both large and small
+islands, that it was impossible to lay it down accurately by
+following in a canoe any single channel, captain Lewis
+walked on shore, took the general courses of the river, and
+from the rising grounds laid down the situation of the
+islands and channels, which he was enabled to do with perfect
+accuracy, the view not being obstructed by much timber.
+At one mile and a quarter we passed an island somewhat
+larger than the rest, and four miles further reached
+the upper end of another, on which we breakfasted. This
+is a large island forming in the middle of a bend to the
+north a level fertile plain ten feet above the surface of the
+water and never overflowed. Here we found great quantities
+of a small onion about the size of a musket ball,
+though some were larger; it is white, crisp, and as well
+flavoured as any of our garden onions; the seed is just
+ripening, and as the plant bears a large quantity to the
+square foot, and stands the rigours of the climate, it will no
+doubt be an acquisition to settlers. From this production
+we called it Onion island. During the next seven and three
+quarter miles we passed several long circular bends, and a
+number of large and small islands which divide the river
+into many channels, and then reached the mouth of a creek
+on the north side. It is composed of three creeks which
+unite in a handsome valley about four miles before they
+discharge themselves into the Missouri, where it is about
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_316" id="Pg_316" title="Pg_316">[316]</a></span>fifteen feet wide and eight feet deep, with clear transparent
+water. Here we halted for dinner, but as the canoes took
+different channels in ascending it was some time before they
+all joined. Here we were delighted to find that the Indian
+woman recognizes the country; she tells us that to this creek
+her countrymen make excursions to procure a white paint
+on its banks, and we therefore call it Whiteearth creek.
+She says also that the three forks of the Missouri are at no
+great distance, a piece of intelligence which has cheered the
+spirits of us all, as we hope soon to reach the head of that
+river. This is the warmest day except one we have experienced
+this summer. In the shade the mercury stood at
+80&deg; above 0, which is the second time it has reached that
+height during this season. We encamped on an island after
+making nineteen and three quarter miles.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of the day we saw many geese, cranes,
+small birds common to the plains, and a few pheasants: we
+also observed a small plover or curlew of a brown colour,
+about the size of the yellow-legged plover or jack curlew,
+but of a different species. It first appeared near the mouth
+of Smith's river, but is so shy and vigilant that we were
+unable to shoot it. Both the broad and narrow-leafed willow
+continue, though the sweet willow has become very
+scarce. The rosebush, small honeysuckle, the pulpy-leafed
+thorn, southern wood, sage and box-alder, narrow-leafed
+cottonwood, redwood, and a species of sumach, are all abundant.
+So too are the red and black gooseberries, serviceberries,
+chokecherry, and the black, red, yellow, and purple
+currant, which last seems to be a favourite food of the
+bear. Before encamping we landed and took on board
+captain Clarke with the meat he had collected during this
+day's hunt, which consisted of one deer and an elk: we had
+ourselves shot a deer and an antelope. The musquitoes and
+gnats were unusually fierce this evening.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday, 23. Captain Clarke again proceeded with
+four men along the right bank. During the whole day the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_317" id="Pg_317" title="Pg_317">[317]</a></span>river divided by a number of islands, which spread it out
+sometimes to the distance of three miles: the current is very
+rapid and has many ripples; and the bed formed of gravel
+and smooth stones. The banks along the low grounds are
+of a rich loam, followed occasionally by low bluffs of yellow
+and red clay, with a hard red slatestone intermixed. The
+low grounds are wide, and have very little timber but a
+thick underbrush of willow, and rose and currant bushes:
+these are succeeded by high plains extending on each side
+to the base of the mountains, which lie parallel to the river
+about eight or twelve miles apart, and are high and rocky,
+with some small pine and cedar interspersed on them. At
+the distance of seven miles a creek twenty yards wide, after
+meandering through a beautiful low ground on the left
+for several miles parallel to the river, empties itself near a
+cluster of small islands: the stream we called Whitehouse
+creek after Joseph Whitehouse one of the party, and the
+islands from their number received the name of the "Ten
+islands." About ten o'clock we came up with Drewyer, who
+had gone out to hunt yesterday, and not being able to find
+our encampment had staid out all night: he now supplied us
+with five deer. Three and a quarter miles beyond Whitehouse
+creek we came to the lower point of an island where
+the river is three hundred yards wide, and continued along it
+for one mile and a quarter, and then passed a second island
+just above it. We halted rather early for dinner in order
+to dry some part of the baggage which had been wet in the
+canoes: we then proceeded, and at five and a half miles had
+passed two small islands. Within the next three miles we
+came to a large island, which from its figure we called
+Broad island. From that place we made three and a half
+miles, and encamped on an island to the left, opposite to
+a much larger one on the right. Our journey to-day
+was twenty-two and a quarter miles, the greater part of
+which was made by means of our poles and cords, the use
+of which the banks much favoured. During the whole time
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_318" id="Pg_318" title="Pg_318">[318]</a></span>we had the small flags hoisted in the canoes to apprise the
+Indians, if there were any in the neighbourhood, of our being
+white men and their friends; but we were not so fortunate
+as to discover any of them. Along the shores we saw great
+quantities of the common thistle, and procured a further
+supply of wild onions and a species of garlic growing on the
+highlands, which is now green and in bloom: it has a flat
+leaf, and is strong, tough, and disagreeable. There was also
+much of the wild flax, of which we now obtained some ripe
+seed, as well as some bullrush and cattail flag. Among the animals
+we met with a black snake about two feet long, with
+the belly as dark as any other part of the body, which was
+perfectly black, and which had one hundred and twenty-eight
+scuta on the belly and sixty-three on the tail: we also
+saw antelopes, crane, geese, ducks, beaver, and otter; and
+took up four deer which had been left on the water side by
+captain Clarke. He had pursued all day an Indian road on
+the right side of the river, and encamped late in the evening
+at the distance of twenty-five miles from our camp of
+last night. In the course of his walk he met besides deer
+a number of antelopes and a herd of elk, but all the tracks
+of Indians, though numerous, were of an old date.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday, 24. We proceeded for four and a quarter
+miles along several islands to a small run, just above which
+the low bluffs touch the river. Within three and a half miles
+further we came to a small island on the north, and a remarkable
+bluff composed of earth of a crimson colour, intermixed
+with stratas of slate, either black or of a red resembling
+brick. The following six and three quarter miles
+brought us to an assemblage of islands, having passed four
+at different distances; and within the next five miles we met
+the same number of islands, and encamped on the north
+after making nineteen and a half miles. The current of the
+river was strong and obstructed, as indeed it has been for
+some days by small rapids or ripples which descend from
+one to three feet in the course of one hundred and fifty
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_319" id="Pg_319" title="Pg_319">[319]</a></span>yards, but they are rarely incommoded by any fixed rocks,
+and therefore, though the water is rapid, the passage is not
+attended with danger. The valley through which the river
+passes is like that of yesterday; the nearest hills generally
+concealing the most distant from us; but when we obtain a
+view of them they present themselves in amphitheatre,
+rising above each other as they recede from the river till
+the most remote are covered with snow. We saw many otter
+and beaver to-day: the latter seem to contribute very much
+to the number of islands and the widening of the river.
+They begin by damming up the small channels of about
+twenty yards between the islands; this obliges the river to
+seek another outlet, and as soon as this is effected the channel
+stopped by the beaver becomes filled with mud and sand.
+The industrious animal is then driven to another channel
+which soon shares the same fate, till the river spreads on
+all sides, and cuts the projecting points of the land into
+islands. We killed a deer and saw great numbers of antelopes,
+cranes, some geese, and a few redheaded ducks.
+The small birds of the plains and the curlew are still abundant:
+we saw but could not come within gunshot of a large
+bear. There is much of the track of elk but none of the
+animals themselves, and from the appearance of bones and
+old excrement, we suppose that buffaloe have sometimes
+strayed into the valley, though we have as yet seen no recent
+sign of them. Along the water are a number of snakes,
+some of a brown uniform colour, others black, and a third
+speckled on the abdomen, and striped with black and a
+brownish yellow in the back and sides. The first, which are
+the largest, are about four feet long; the second is of the
+kind mentioned yesterday, and the third resembles in size
+and appearance the garter-snake of the United States. On
+examining the teeth of all these several kinds we found
+them free from poison: they are fond of the water, in which
+they take shelter on being pursued. The mosquitoes, gnats,
+and prickly pear, our three persecutors, still continue with
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_320" id="Pg_320" title="Pg_320">[320]</a></span>us, and joined with the labour of working the canoes have
+fatigued us all excessively. Captain Clarke continued along
+the Indian road which led him up a creek. About ten o'clock
+he saw at the distance of six miles a horse feeding in the
+plains. He went towards him, but the animal was so wild
+that he could not get within several hundred paces of him:
+he then turned obliquely to the river where he killed a deer
+and dined, having passed in this valley five handsome
+streams, only one of which had any timber; another had
+some willows, and was very much dammed up by the beaver.
+After dinner he continued his route along the river and encamped
+at the distance of thirty miles. As he went along
+he saw many tracks of Indians, but none of recent date.
+The next morning,</p>
+
+<p>Thursday, 25, at the distance of a few miles he arrived
+at the three forks of the Missouri. Here he found that the
+plains had been recently burnt on the north side, and saw
+the track of a horse which seemed to have passed about
+four or five days since. After breakfast he examined the
+rivers, and finding that the north branch, although not
+larger, contained more water than the middle branch, and
+bore more to the westward, he determined to ascend it. He
+therefore left a note informing captain Lewis of his intention,
+and then went up that stream on the north side for
+about twenty-five miles. Here Chaboneau was unable to
+proceed any further, and the party therefore encamped, all
+of them much fatigued, their feet blistered and wounded by
+the prickly pear.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime we left our camp, and proceeded on
+very well, though the water is still rapid and has some occasional
+ripples. The country is much like that of yesterday:
+there are however fewer islands, for we passed only
+two. Behind one of them is a large creek twenty-five yards
+wide, to which we gave the name of Gass's creek, from one
+of our serjeants, Patrick Gass: it is formed by the union of
+five streams, which descend from the mountains and join in
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_321" id="Pg_321" title="Pg_321">[321]</a></span>the plain near the river. On this island we saw a large
+brown bear, but he retreated to the shore and ran off before
+we could approach him. These animals seem more shy
+than they were below the mountains. The antelopes have
+again collected in small herds, composed of several females
+with their young, attended by one or two males, though
+some of the males are still solitary or wander in parties
+of two over the plains, which the antelope invariably prefers
+to the woodlands, and to which it always retreats if by
+accident it is found straggling in the hills, confiding no doubt
+in its wonderful fleetness. We also killed a few young geese,
+but as this game is small and very incompetent to the subsistence
+of the party, we have forbidden the men any longer
+to waste their ammunition on them. About four and a half
+miles above Gass's creek, the valley in which we have been
+travelling ceases, the high craggy cliffs again approach the
+river, which now enters or rather leaves what appears to be
+a second great chain of the Rocky mountains. About a
+mile after entering these hills or low mountains we passed
+a number of fine bold springs, which burst out near the edge
+of the river under the cliffs on the left, and furnished a
+fine freestone water: near these we met with two of the
+worst rapids we have seen since entering the mountains; a
+ridge of sharp pointed rocks stretching across the river,
+leaving but small and dangerous channels for the navigation.
+The cliffs are of a lighter colour than those we have
+already passed, and in the bed of the river is some limestone
+which is small and worn smooth, and seems to have
+been brought down by the current. We went about a mile
+further and encamped under a high bluff on the right opposite
+to a cliff of rocks, having made sixteen miles.</p>
+
+<p>All these cliffs appeared to have been undermined by
+the water at some period, and fallen down from the hills
+on their sides, the stratas of rock sometimes lying with
+their edges upwards, others not detached from the hills are
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_322" id="Pg_322" title="Pg_322">[322]</a></span>depressed obliquely on the side next the river as if they had
+sunk to fill up the cavity formed by the washing of the river.</p>
+
+<p>In the open places among the rocky cliffs are two kinds
+of gooseberry, one yellow and the other red. The former
+species was observed for the first time near the falls, the
+latter differs from it in no respect except in colour and in
+being of a larger size; both have a sweet flavour, and are
+rather indifferent fruit.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 26. We again found the current strong and the
+ripples frequent: these we were obliged to overcome by
+means of the cord and the pole, the oar being scarcely ever
+used except in crossing to take advantage of the shore.
+Within three and three quarter miles we passed seven
+small islands and reached the mouth of a large creek which
+empties itself in the centre of a bend on the left side: it is
+a bold running stream fifteen yards wide, and received the
+name of Howard creek after John P. Howard one of the
+party. One mile beyond it is a small run which falls in on
+the same side just above a rocky cliff. Here the mountains
+recede from the river, and the valley widens to the extent
+of several miles. The river now becomes crowded with
+islands of which we passed ten in the next thirteen and
+three quarter miles, then at the distance of eighteen miles
+we encamped on the left shore near a rock in the centre of
+a bend towards the left, and opposite to two more islands.
+This valley has wide low grounds covered with high grass,
+and in many with a fine turf of green sward. The soil of the
+highlands is thin and meagre, without any covering except
+a low sedge and a dry kind of grass which is almost as inconvenient
+as the prickly pear. The seeds of it are armed
+with a long twisted hard beard at their upper extremity,
+while the lower part is a sharp firm point, beset at its base
+with little stiff bristles, with the points in a direction contrary
+to the subulate point to which they answer as a barb.
+We see also another species of prickly pear. It is of a globular
+form, composed of an assemblage of little conic leaves
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_323" id="Pg_323" title="Pg_323">[323]</a></span>springing from a common root to which their small points
+are attached as a common centre, and the base of the cone
+forms the apex of the leaf which is garnished with a circular
+range of sharp thorns like the cochineal plant, and quite
+as stiff and even more keen than those of the common
+flat-leafed species. Between the hills the river had been
+confined within one hundred and fifty or two hundred yards,
+but in the valley it widens to two hundred or two hundred
+and fifty yards, and sometimes is spread by its numerous
+islands to the distance of three quarters of a mile. The
+banks are low, but the river never overflows them. On entering
+the valley we again saw the snow-clad mountains
+before us, but the appearance of the hills as well as of the
+timber near us is much as heretofore.</p>
+
+<p>Finding Chaboneau unable to proceed captain Clarke
+left him with one of the men, and accompanied by the other
+went up the river about twelve miles to the top of a mountain.
+Here he had an extensive view of the river valley upwards
+and saw a large creek which flowed in on the right
+side. He however discovered no fresh sign of the Indians,
+and therefore determined to examine the middle branch
+and join us by the time we reached the forks: he descended
+the mountain by an Indian path which wound through a
+deep valley, and at length reached a fine cold spring. The
+day had been very warm, the path unshaded by timber, and
+his thirst was excessive; he was therefore tempted to drink:
+but although he took the precaution of previously wetting
+his head, feet and hands, he soon found himself very
+unwell; he continued his route, and after resting with Chaboneau
+at his camp, resumed his march across the north
+fork near a large island. The first part was knee deep, but
+on the other side of the island the water came to their
+waists and was so rapid that Chaboneau was on the point
+of being swept away, and not being able to swim would have
+perished if captain Clarke had not rescued him. While
+crossing the island they killed two brown bear and saw
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_324" id="Pg_324" title="Pg_324">[324]</a></span>great quantities of beaver. He then went on to a small
+river which falls into the north fork some miles above its
+junction with the two others: here, finding himself grow
+more unwell, he halted for the night at the distance of four
+miles from his last encampment.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 27. We proceeded on but slowly, the current
+being still so rapid as to require the utmost exertions of us
+all to advance, and the men are losing their strength fast
+in consequence of their constant efforts. At half a mile we
+passed an island, and a mile and a quarter further again
+entered a ridge of hills which now approach the river with
+cliffs apparently sinking like those of yesterday. They are
+composed of a solid limestone of a light lead colour when
+exposed to the air, though when freshly broken it is of a
+deep blue, and of an excellent quality and very fine grain.
+On these cliffs were numbers of the bighorn. At two and
+a half miles we reached the centre of a bend towards the
+south passing a small island, and at one mile and a quarter
+beyond this reached about nine in the morning the mouth
+of a river seventy yards wide, which falls in from the southeast.
+Here the country suddenly opens into extensive and
+beautiful meadows and plains, surrounded on every side
+with distant and lofty mountains. Captain Lewis went up
+this stream for about half a mile, and from the height of a
+limestone cliff could observe its course about seven miles,
+and the three forks of the Missouri, of which this river is
+one. Its extreme point bore S. 65&deg; E. and during the seven
+miles it passes through a green extensive meadow of fine
+grass dividing itself into several streams, the largest passing
+near the ridge of hills on which he stood. On the right side
+of the Missouri a high, wide and extensive plain succeeds to
+this low meadow which reaches the hills. In the meadow
+a large spring rises about a quarter of a mile from this
+Southeast fork, into which it discharges itself on the right
+side about four hundred paces from where he stood. Between
+the southeast and middle forks a distant range
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_325" id="Pg_325" title="Pg_325">[325]</a></span>of snow-topped mountains spread from east to south
+above the irregular broken hills nearer to this spot: the
+middle and southwest forks unite at half a mile above the
+entrance of the southeast fork. The extreme point at which
+the former can be seen, bears S. 15&deg; E. and at the distance
+of fourteen miles, where it turns to the right round the
+point of a high plain and disappears from the view. Its low
+grounds are several miles in width, forming a smooth and
+beautiful green meadow, and like the southeast fork it divides
+itself into several streams. Between these two forks
+and near their junction with that from the southwest, is a
+position admirably well calculated for a fort. It is a limestone
+rock of an oblong form, rising from the plain perpendicularly
+to the height of twenty-five feet on three of its
+sides; the fourth towards the middle fork being a gradual
+ascent and covered with a fine green sward, as is also the
+top which is level and contains about two acres. An extensive
+plain lies between the middle and southwest forks, the
+last of which after watering a country like that of the
+other two branches, disappears about twelve miles off, at a
+point bearing south 30&deg; west. It is also more divided and
+serpentine in its course than the other two, and possesses
+more timber in its meadows. This timber consists almost
+exclusively of the narrow-leafed cottonwood, with an inter-mixture
+of box alder and sweet-willow, the underbrush being
+thick and like that of the Missouri lower down. A
+range of high mountains partially covered with snow is seen
+at a considerable distance running from south to west, and
+nearly all around us are broken ridges of country like that
+below, through which those united streams appear to have
+forced their passage: after observing the country captain
+Lewis descended to breakfast. We then left the mouth of
+the southeast fork, to which in honour of the secretary of
+the treasury we called Gallatin's river, and at the distance
+of half a mile reached the confluence of the southwest and
+middle branch of the Missouri. Here we found the letter
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_326" id="Pg_326" title="Pg_326">[326]</a></span>from captain Clarke, and as we agreed with him that the
+direction of the southwest fork gave it a decided preference
+over the others, we ascended that branch of the river for a
+mile, and encamped in a level handsome plain on the left:
+having advanced only seven miles. Here we resolved to
+wait the return of captain Clarke, and in the meantime
+make the necessary celestial observations, as this seems an
+essential point in the geography of the western world, and
+also to recruit the men and air the baggage. It was accordingly
+all unloaded and stowed away on shore. Near
+the three forks we saw many collections of the mud-nests
+of the small martin attached to the smooth faces of the
+limestone rock, where they were sheltered by projections
+of the rock above it: and in the meadows were numbers of
+the duck or mallard with their young, who are now nearly
+grown. The hunters returned towards evening with six
+deer, three otter and a muskrat; and had seen great numbers
+of antelopes, and much sign of the beaver and elk.</p>
+
+<p>During all last night captain Clarke had a high fever
+and chills accompanied with great pain. He however pursued
+his route eight miles to the middle branch, where not
+finding any fresh Indian track he came down it and joined
+us about three o'clock, very much exhausted with fatigue
+and the violence of his fever. Believing himself bilious he
+took a dose of Rush's pills, which we have always found
+sovereign in such cases, and bathing the lower extremities
+in warm water.</p>
+
+<p>We are now very anxious to see the Snake Indians. After
+advancing for several hundred miles into this wild and
+mountainous country, we may soon expect that the game
+will abandon us. With no information of the route we may
+be unable to find a passage across the mountains when we
+reach the head of the river, at least such a one as will lead
+us to the Columbia, and even were we so fortunate as to
+find a branch of that river, the timber which we have hitherto
+seen in these mountains does not promise us any fit to make
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_327" id="Pg_327" title="Pg_327">[327]</a></span>canoes, so that our chief dependence is on meeting some
+tribe from whom we may procure horses. Our consolation
+is, that this southwest branch can scarcely head with any
+other river than the Columbia, and that if any nation of Indians
+can live in the mountains we are able to endure as
+much as they, and have even better means of procuring
+subsistence.</p>
+
+
+<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p>
+
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_328" id="Pg_328" title="Pg_328">[328]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+<!-- ROUTE MAP -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173"
+        alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The name of the Missouri changed, as the river now divides itself into three
+forks, one of which is called after Jefferson, the other Madison, and the other
+after Gallatin&mdash;their general character&mdash;the party ascend the Jefferson
+branch&mdash;description of the river Philosophy which enters into the Jefferson&mdash;captain
+Lewis and a small party go in advance in search of the Shoshonees&mdash;description
+of the country, &amp;c. bordering on the river&mdash;captain Lewis still
+preceding the main party in quest of the Shoshonees&mdash;a singular accident
+which prevented captain Clarke from following captain Lewis's advice, and
+ascending the middle fork of the river&mdash;description of Philanthropy river,
+another stream running into the Jefferson&mdash;captain Lewis and a small party
+having been unsuccessful in their first attempt, set off a second time in quest
+of the Shoshonees.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>Sunday, July 28. Captain Clarke continued very unwell
+during the night, but was somewhat relieved this morning.
+On examining the two streams it became difficult to
+decide which was the larger or the real Missouri; they are
+each ninety yards wide and so perfectly similar in character
+and appearance that they seem to have been formed in
+the same mould. We were therefore induced to discontinue
+the name of Missouri, and gave to the southwest branch
+the name of Jefferson in honour of the president of the United
+States, and the projector of the enterprise: and called
+the middle branch Madison, after James Madison secretary
+of state. These two, as well as Gallatin river, run with
+great velocity and throw out large bodies of water. Gallatin
+river is however the most rapid of the three, and though not
+quite as deep, yet navigable for a considerable distance.
+Madison river though much less rapid than the Gallatin, is
+somewhat more rapid than the Jefferson; the beds of all of
+them are formed of smooth pebble and gravel, and the
+waters are perfectly transparent. The timber in the neighbourhood
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_329" id="Pg_329" title="Pg_329">[329]</a></span>would be sufficient for the ordinary uses of an establishment,
+which, however, it would be adviseable to
+build of brick, as the earth appears calculated for that purpose,
+and along the shores are some bars of fine pure sand.
+The greater part of the men, having yesterday put their
+deer skins in water, were this day engaged in dressing
+them, for the purpose of making clothing. The weather
+was very warm, the thermometer in the afternoon was at
+90&deg; above 0, and the musquitoes more than usually inconvenient:
+we were, however, relieved from them by a high
+wind from the southwest, which came on at four o'clock,
+bringing a storm of thunder and lightning, attended by refreshing
+showers, which continued till after dark. In the
+evening the hunters returned with eight deer and two elk;
+and the party who had been sent up the Gallatin, reported
+that after passing the point, where it escaped from <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'captian'.">captain</ins>
+Lewis's view yesterday, it turned more towards the east, as
+far as they could discern the opening of the mountains,
+formed by the valley which bordered it. The low grounds
+were still wide but not so extensive as near its mouth, and
+though the stream is rapid and much divided by islands, it is
+still sufficiently deep for navigation with canoes. The low
+grounds, although not more than eight or nine feet above
+the water, seem never to be overflowed, except a part on
+the west side of the middle fork, which is stony and seems
+occasionally inundated, are furnished with great quantities
+of small fruit, such as currants and gooseberries: among
+the last of which is a black species, which we observe not
+only in the meadows but along the mountain rivulets. From
+the same root rise a number of stems to the height of five
+or six feet, some of them particularly branched and all reclining.
+The berry is attached by a long peduncle to the
+stem, from which they hang of a smooth ovate form, as
+large as the common garden gooseberry, and as black as
+jet, though the pulp is of a bright crimson colour. It is extremely
+acid: the form of the leaf resembles that of the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_330" id="Pg_330" title="Pg_330">[330]</a></span>common gooseberry, though larger. The stem is covered
+with very sharp thorns or briars: the grass too is very luxuriant
+and would yield fine hay in parcels of several acres. The
+sand-rushes will grow in many places as high as a man's
+breast, and as thick as stalks of wheat; it would supply the
+best food during the winter to cattle of any trading or military
+post.</p>
+
+<p>Sacajawea, our Indian woman, informs us that we are
+encamped on the precise spot where her countrymen, the
+Snake Indians, had their huts five years ago, when the
+Minnetarees of Knife river first came in sight of them, and
+from which they hastily retreated three miles up the Jefferson,
+and concealed themselves in the woods. The Minnetarees,
+however, pursued and attacked them, killed
+four men, as many women, and a number of boys; and made
+prisoners of four other boys, and all the females, of whom
+Sacajawea was one: she does not, however, show any distress
+at these recollections, nor any joy at the prospect of
+being restored to her country; for she seems to possess the
+folly or the philosophy of not suffering her feelings to extend
+beyond the anxiety of having plenty to eat and a few
+trinkets to wear.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 29. This morning the hunters brought in some
+fat deer of the long-tailed red kind, which are quite as large
+as those of the United States, and are, indeed, the only kind
+we have found at this place: there are numbers of the sandhill
+cranes feeding in the meadows; we caught a young one
+of the same colour as the red deer, which, though it had
+nearly attained its full growth could not fly; it is very fierce
+and strikes a severe blow with its beak. The kingfisher
+has become quite common on this side of the falls: but we
+have seen none of the summer duck since leaving that
+place. The mallard duck, which we saw for the first time
+on the 20th instant, with their young, are now abundant,
+though they do not breed on the Missouri, below the mountains.
+The small birds already described are also abundant
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_331" id="Pg_331" title="Pg_331">[331]</a></span>in the plains; here too, are great quantities of grasshoppers
+or crickets; and among other animals, a large ant
+with a reddish brown body and legs, and a black head and
+abdomen, who build little cones of gravel, ten or twelve
+inches high, without a mixture of sticks, and but little
+earth. In the river we see a great abundance of fish, but
+we cannot tempt them to bite by any thing on our hooks.
+The whole party have been engaged in dressing skins, and
+making them into moccasins and leggings. Captain
+Clarke's fever has almost left him, but he still remains
+very languid and has a general soreness in his limbs. The
+latitude of our camp, as the mean of two observations of
+the meridian altitude of the sun's lower limb with octant
+by back observation is N. 45&deg; 24' 8" 5"'.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 30. Captain Clarke was this morning much
+restored; and, therefore, having made all the observations
+necessary to fix the longitude, we reloaded our canoes, and
+began to ascend Jefferson river. The river now becomes
+very crooked, and forms bends on each side; the current too
+is rapid, and cut into a great number of channels, and sometimes
+shoals, the beds of which consist of coarse gravel.
+The islands are unusually numerous: on the right are high
+plains occasionally forming cliffs of rocks and hills; while
+the left was an extensive low ground and prairie intersected
+by a number of bayous or channels falling into the river.
+Captain Lewis, who had walked through it with Chaboneau,
+his wife, and two invalids, joined us at dinner, a few miles
+above our camp. Here the Indian woman said was the
+place where she had been made prisoner. The men being
+too few to contend with the Minnetarees, mounted their
+horses, and fled as soon as the attack began. The women
+and children dispersed, and Sacajawea as she was crossing
+at a shoal place, was overtaken in the middle of the river
+by her pursuers. As we proceeded, the low grounds were
+covered with cottonwood and a thick underbrush, and on
+both sides of the river, except where the high hills prevented
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_332" id="Pg_332" title="Pg_332">[332]</a></span>it, the ground was divided by bayous, which are
+dammed up by the beaver, which are very numerous here.
+We made twelve and a quarter miles, and encamped on
+the north side. Captain Lewis proceeded after dinner,
+through an extensive low ground of timber and meadow
+land intermixed; but the bayous were so obstructed by
+beaver dams, that in order to avoid them he directed his
+course towards the high plain on the right. This he gained
+with some difficulty, after wading up to his waist through
+the mud and water of a number of beaver dams. When he
+desired to rejoin the canoes he found the underbrush so
+thick, and the river so crooked, that this, joined to the
+difficulty of passing the beaver dams, induced him to go on
+and endeavour to intercept the river at some point where it
+might be more collected into one channel and approach
+nearer to the high plain. He arrived at the bank about sunset,
+having gone only six miles in a direct course from the
+canoes: but he saw no traces of the men, nor did he receive
+any answer to his shouts nor the firing of his gun. It was
+now nearly dark; a duck lighted near him and he shot it. He
+then went on the head of a small island where he found some
+driftwood, which enabled him to cook his duck for supper,
+and he laid down to sleep on some willow brush. The night
+was cool, but the driftwood gave him a good fire, and he
+suffered no inconvenience except from the mosquitoes.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 31. The next morning he waited till after
+seven o'clock, when he became uneasy lest we should have
+gone beyond his camp last evening and determined to follow
+us. Just as he had set out with this intention, he saw one
+of the party in advance of the canoes; although our camp
+was only two miles below him, in a straight line, we could
+not reach him sooner, in consequence of the rapidity of the
+water and the circuitous course of the river. We halted for
+breakfast, after which captain Lewis continued his route.
+At the distance of one mile from our encampment we passed
+the principal entrance of a stream on the left, which rises in
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_333" id="Pg_333" title="Pg_333">[333]</a></span>the snowy mountains to the southwest, between Jefferson and
+Madison rivers, and discharges itself by seven mouths, five
+below, and one three miles above this, which is the largest,
+and about thirty yards wide: we called it Philosophy river.
+The water of it is abundant and perfectly clear, and the bed
+like that of the Jefferson consists of pebble and gravel.
+There is some timber in the bottoms of the river, and vast
+numbers of otter and beaver, which build on its smaller
+mouths and the bayous of its neighbourhood. The Jefferson
+continues as yesterday, shoaly and rapid, but as the islands
+though numerous are small, it is however more collected into
+one current than it was below, and is from ninety to one
+hundred and twenty yards in width. The low ground has a
+fertile soil of rich black loam, and contains a considerable
+quantity of timber, with the bullrush and cattail flag very
+abundant in the moist parts, while the drier situations are
+covered with fine grass, tansy, thistles, onions, and flax. The
+uplands are barren, and without timber: the soil is a light
+yellow clay intermixed with small smooth pebble and gravel,
+and the only produce is the prickly-pear, the sedge, and
+the bearded grass, which is as dry and inflammable as tinder.
+As we proceeded the low grounds became narrower, and the
+timber more scarce, till at the distance of ten miles the high
+hills approach and overhang the river on both sides, forming
+cliffs of a hard black granite, like almost all those below
+the limestone cliffs at the three forks of the Missouri: they
+continue so for a mile and three quarters, where we came
+to a point of rock on the right side, at which place the hills
+again retire, and the valley widens to the distance of a mile
+and a half. Within the next five miles we passed four
+islands, and reached the foot of a mountain in a bend of the
+river to the left: from this place we went a mile and a quarter
+to the entrance of a small run discharging itself on the
+left, and encamped on an island just above it, after making
+seventeen and three quarter miles. We observe some pine
+on the hills on both sides of our encampment, which are very
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_334" id="Pg_334" title="Pg_334">[334]</a></span>lofty. The only game which we have seen are one bighorn,
+a few antelopes, deer, and one brown bear, which escaped
+from our pursuit. Nothing was, however, killed to-day,
+nor have we had any fresh meat except one beaver for the
+last two days, so that we are now reduced to an unusual
+situation, for we have hitherto always had a great abundance
+of flesh.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday, August 1. We left our encampment early,
+and at the distance of a mile, reached a point of rocks on the
+left side, where the river passes though perpendicular cliffs.
+Two and three quarter miles further we halted for breakfast
+under a cedar tree in a bend to the right: here as had
+been previously arranged, captain Lewis left us, with sergeant
+Gass, Chaboneau, and Drewyer, intending to go on in
+advance in search of the Shoshonees. He began his route
+along the north side of the river over a high range of mountains,
+as captain Clarke who ascended them on the 26th had
+observed from them a large valley spreading to the north
+of west, and concluded that on leaving the mountain the
+river took that direction; but when he reached that valley,
+captain Lewis found it to be the passage of a large creek
+falling just above the mountain into the Jefferson, which
+bears to the southwest. On discovering his error, he bent
+his course towards that river, which he reached about two
+in the afternoon, very much exhausted with heat and thirst.
+The mountains were very bare of timber, and the route lay
+along the steep and narrow hollows of the mountain, exposed
+to the mid-day sun, without air, or shade, or water.
+Just as he arrived there a flock of elk passed, and they killed
+two of them, on which they made their dinner, and left
+the rest on the shore for the party in the canoes. After
+dinner they resumed their march, and encamped on the north
+side of the river, after making seventeen miles; in crossing
+the mountains captain Lewis saw a flock of the black or dark
+brown pheasant, of which he killed one. This bird is one
+third larger than the common pheasant of the Atlantic States;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_335" id="Pg_335" title="Pg_335">[335]</a></span>its form is much the same. The male has not however the
+tufts of long black feathers on the side of the neck so
+conspicuous in the Atlantic pheasant, and both sexes are
+booted nearly to the toes. The colour is a uniform dark
+brown with a small mixture of yellow or yellowish brown
+specks on some of the feathers, particularly those of the
+tail, though the extremities of these are perfectly black
+for about an inch. The eye is nearly black, and the iris
+has a small dash of yellowish brown; the feathers of the
+tail are somewhat longer than those of our pheasant, but
+the same in number, eighteen, and nearly equal in size, except
+that those of the middle are somewhat the longest; their
+flesh is white and agreeably flavoured.</p>
+
+<p>He also saw among the scattered pine near the top of
+the mountain, a blue bird about the size of a robin, but in
+action and form something like a jay; it is constantly in motion,
+hopping from spray to spray, and its note which is loud
+and frequent, is, as far as letters can represent it, char ah!
+char ah! char ah!</p>
+
+<p>After breakfast we proceeded on: at the distance of two
+and a quarter miles the river enters a high mountain, which
+forms rugged cliffs of nearly perpendicular rocks. These
+are of a black granite at the lower part, and the upper consists
+of a light coloured freestone; they continue from the
+point of rocks close to the river for nine miles, which we
+passed before breakfast, during which the current is very
+strong. At nine and a quarter miles we passed an island,
+and a rapid fall with a fall of six feet, and reached the entrance
+of a large creek on the left side. In passing this place the
+towline of one of the canoes broke just at the shoot of the
+rapids, swung on the rocks and had nearly upset. To the
+creek as well as the rapid we gave the name of Frazier, after
+<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'Rober'.">Robert</ins> Frazier one of the party: here the country opens
+into a beautiful valley from six to eight miles in width: the
+river then becomes crooked and crowded with islands; its
+lowgrounds wide and fertile, but though covered with fine
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_336" id="Pg_336" title="Pg_336">[336]</a></span>grass from nine inches to two feet high; possesses but a small
+proportion of timber, and that consists almost entirely of a
+few narrow-leafed cottonwood distributed along the verge of
+the river. The soil of the plain is tolerably fertile, and consists
+of a black or dark yellow loam. It gradually ascends on each
+side to the bases of two ranges of high mountains which lie
+<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'parrallel'.">parallel</ins> to the river; the tops of them are yet in part covered
+with snow, and while in the valley we are nearly suffocated
+with heat during the day, and at night the air is so
+cold that two blankets are not more than sufficient covering.
+In passing through the hills we observed some large
+cedar trees, and some juniper also. From Frazier's creek
+we went three and three quarter miles, and encamped on
+the left side, having come thirteen miles. Directly opposite
+our camp is a large creek which we call Field's creek,
+from Reuben Fields, one of our men. Soon after we halted
+two of the hunters went out and returned with five deer,
+which, with one bighorn, we killed in coming through the
+mountain on which we dined; and the elk left by captain
+Lewis. We were again well supplied with fresh meat. In the
+course of the day we saw a brown bear but were not able to
+shoot him.</p>
+
+<p>Friday, August 2. Captain Lewis, who slept in the
+valley a few miles above us, resumed his journey early, and
+after making five miles and finding that the river still bore
+to the south, determined to cross it in hopes of shortening
+the route: for the first time therefore he waded across it,
+although there are probably many places above the falls
+where it might be attempted with equal safety. The river
+was about ninety yards wide, the current rapid, and about
+waist deep: the bottom formed of smooth pebble with a
+small mixture of coarse gravel. He then continued along
+the left bank of the river till sunset and encamped, after
+travelling twenty-four miles. He met no fresh tracks of Indians.
+Throughout the valley are scattered the bones and
+excrement of the <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'buffalac'.">buffaloe</ins> of an old date, but there seems
+no hope of meeting the animals themselves in the mountains:
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_337" id="Pg_337" title="Pg_337">[337]</a></span>he saw an abundance of deer and antelope, and many
+tracks of elk and bear. Having killed two deer they feasted
+sumptuously, with a desert of currants of different colours;
+two species of red, others yellow, deep purple, and black:
+to these were added black gooseberries and deep purple
+serviceberries, somewhat larger than ours, from which it
+differs also in colour, size, and the superior excellence of its
+flavour. In the low grounds of the river were many beaver-dams
+formed of willow brush, mud, and gravel, so closely
+interwoven that they resist the water perfectly: some of
+them were five feet high and overflowed several acres of land.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime we proceeded on slowly, the current
+being so strong as to require the utmost exertions of the
+men to make any advance even with the aid of the cord and
+pole, the wind being from the northwest. The river is full
+of large and small islands, and the plain cut by great numbers
+of bayous or channels, in which are multitudes of beaver.
+In the course of the day we passed some villages of
+barking squirrels: we saw several rattlesnakes in the plain;
+young ducks, both of the duckon-mallard and red-headed
+fishing duck species; some geese; also the black woodpecker,
+and a large herd of elk. The channel, current, banks,
+and general appearance of the river, are like that of yesterday.
+At fourteen and three quarter miles we reached a
+rapid creek or bayou about thirty yards wide, to which we
+gave the name of Birth creek. After making seventeen
+miles we halted in a smooth plain in a bend towards the left.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, 3. Captain Lewis continued his course along
+the river through the valley, which continued much as it
+was yesterday, except that it now widens to nearly twelve
+miles; the plains too are more broken and have some scattered
+pine near the mountains, where they rise higher than
+hitherto. In the level parts of the plains and the river bottoms
+there is no timber except small cottonwood near the
+margin, and an undergrowth of narrow-leafed willow, small
+honeysuckle, rosebushes, currants, serviceberry, and gooseberry,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_338" id="Pg_338" title="Pg_338">[338]</a></span>and a little of a small species of birch; it is a finely
+indented oval of a small size and a deep green colour; the
+stem is simple, ascending and branching, and seldom rises
+higher than ten or twelve feet. The mountains continue
+high on each side of the valley, but their only covering is a
+small species of pitch-pine with a short leaf, growing on the
+lower and middle regions, while for some distance below
+the snowy tops there is neither timber nor herbage of any
+kind. About eleven o'clock Drewyer killed a doe on which
+they breakfasted, and after resting two hours continued
+till night, when they reached the river near a low ground
+more extensive than usual. From the appearance of the
+timber captain Lewis supposed that the river forked above
+him, and therefore encamped with an intention of examining
+it more particularly in the morning. He had now made
+twenty-three miles, the latter part of which were for eight
+miles through a high plain covered with prickly pears and
+bearded grass, which rendered the walking very inconvenient:
+but even this was better than the river bottoms we
+crossed in the evening, which, though apparently level,
+were formed into deep holes as if they had been rooted
+up by hogs, and the holes were so covered with thick
+grass that they were in danger of falling at every step.
+Some parts of these low grounds, however, contain turf or
+peat of an excellent quality for many feet deep apparently,
+as well as the mineral salts which we have already mentioned
+on the Missouri. They saw many deer, antelopes, ducks,
+geese, some beaver, and great traces of their work, and the
+small birds and curlews as usual. The only fish which they
+observed in this part of the river is the trout and a species of
+white fish, with a remarkably long small mouth, which one of
+our men recognize as the fish called in the eastern states the
+bottlenose.</p>
+
+<p>On setting out with the canoes we found the river as usual
+much crowded with islands, the current more rapid as
+well as shallower, so that in many places they were
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_339" id="Pg_339" title="Pg_339">[339]</a></span>obliged to man the canoes double, and drag them over the
+stone and gravel of the channel. Soon after we set off captain
+Clarke who was walking on shore observed a fresh track
+which he knew to be that of an Indian from the large toes
+being turned inwards, and on following it found that it led to
+the point of a hill from which our camp of last night could
+be seen. This circumstance strengthened the belief that some
+Indian had strayed thither, and had run off alarmed at the
+sight of us. At two and a quarter miles, is a small creek in a
+bend towards the right, which runs down from the mountains
+at a little distance; we called it Panther creek from an animal
+of that kind killed by Reuben Fields at its mouth.
+It is precisely the same animal common to the western parts
+of the United States, and measured seven and a half feet from
+the nose to the extremity of the tail. Six and three quarter
+miles beyond this stream is another on the left formed by the
+drains which convey the melted snows from a mountain near
+it, under which the river passes, leaving the low grounds on
+the right side, and making several bends in its course. On
+this stream are many large beaver dams. One mile above it
+is a small run on the left, and after leaving which begins a
+very bad rapid, where the bed of the river is formed of solid
+rock: this we passed in the course of a mile, and encamped
+on the lower point of an island. Our journey had been
+only thirteen miles, but the badness of the river made it very
+laborious, as the men were compelled to be in the water during
+the greater part of the day. We saw only deer, antelopes,
+and the common birds of the country.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 4. This morning captain Lewis proceeded early,
+and after going southeast by east for four miles, reaching
+a bold running creek, twelve yards wide, with clear cold
+water, furnished apparently by four drains from the snowy
+mountains on the left; after passing this creek he changed
+his direction to southeast, and leaving the valley in which
+he had travelled for the last two days, entered another
+which bore east. At the distance of three miles on this
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_340" id="Pg_340" title="Pg_340">[340]</a></span>course he passed a handsome little river, about thirty yards
+wide, which winds through the valley: the current is not
+rapid nor the water very clear, but it affords a considerable
+quantity of water, and appears as if it might be navigable
+for some miles. The banks are low, and the bed formed
+of stone and gravel. He now changed his route to
+southwest, and passing a high plain which separates the
+vallies, returned to the more southern or that which he
+had left: in passing this he found a river about forty-five
+yards wide, the water of which has a whitish blue tinge,
+with a gentle current, and a gravelly bottom. This he
+waded and found it waist deep. He then continued down
+it, till at the distance of three quarters of a mile he saw the
+entrance of the small river he had just passed; as he went
+on two miles lower down, he found the mouth of the creek
+he had seen in the morning. Proceeding further on three
+miles, he arrived at the junction of this river, with another
+which rises from the southwest, runs through the south valley
+about twelve miles before it forms its junction, where
+it is fifty yards wide: we now found that our camp of last
+night was about a mile and a half above the entrance of
+this large river, on the right side. This is a bold, rapid,
+clear stream, but its bed is so much obstructed by gravelly
+bars, and subdivided by islands, that the navigation must
+be very insecure, if not impracticable. The other or middle
+stream, has about two thirds its quantity of water, and
+is more gentle, and may be safely navigated. As far as it
+could be observed, its course was about southwest, but the
+opening of the valley induced him to believe that farther
+above it turned more towards the west. Its water is more
+turbid and warmer than that of the other branch, whence
+it may be presumed to have its sources at a greater distance
+in the mountains, and to pass through a more open country.
+Under this impression he left a note recommending
+to captain Clarke the middle fork, and then continued his
+course along the right side of the other, or more rapid
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_341" id="Pg_341" title="Pg_341">[341]</a></span>branch. After travelling twenty-three miles he
+near a place where the river leaves the valley and enters
+the mountain. Here he encamped for the night. The
+country he passed is like that of the rest of this valley,
+though there is more timber in this part on the rapid fork
+than there has been on the river in the same extent since
+we entered it; for on some parts of the valley the Indians
+seem to have destroyed a great proportion of the little timber
+there was, by setting fire to the bottoms. He saw some
+antelopes, deer, cranes, geese and ducks of the two species
+common to this country, though the summer duck has ceased
+to appear, nor does it seem to be an inhabitant of this
+part of the river.</p>
+
+<p>We proceeded soon after sunrise: the first five miles we
+passed four bends on the left, and several bayous on both
+sides. At eight o'clock we stopped to breakfast, and found the
+note captain Lewis had written on the 2d instant. During the
+next four miles, we passed three small bends of the river
+to the right, two small islands, and two bayous on the same
+side. Here we reached a bluff on the left; our next course
+was six miles to our encampment. In this course we met
+six circular bends on the right, and several small bayous,
+and halted for the night in a low ground of cottonwood on
+the right. Our days journey, though only fifteen miles in
+length, was very fatiguing. The river is still rapid and
+the water though clear is very much obstructed by shoals
+or ripples at every two or three hundred yards: at all these
+places we are obliged to drag the canoes over the stones as
+there is not a sufficient depth of water to float them, and
+in the other parts the current obliges us to have recourse
+to the cord. But as the brushwood on the banks will not
+permit us to walk on shore, we are under the necessity of
+wading through the river as we drag the boats. This soon
+makes our feet tender, and sometimes occasions severe falls
+over the slippery stones; and the men by being constantly
+wet are becoming more feeble. In the course of the day
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_342" id="Pg_342" title="Pg_342">[342]</a></span>the hunters killed two deer, some geese and ducks, and the
+party saw antelopes, cranes, beaver and otter.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 5. This morning Chaboneau complained of being
+unable to march far to-day, and captain Lewis therefore
+ordered him and serjeant Gass to pass the rapid river
+and proceed through the level low ground, to a point of
+high timber on the middle fork, seven miles distant, and
+wait his return. He then went along the north side of the
+rapid river about four miles, where he waded it, and found
+it so rapid and shallow that it would be impossible to navigate
+it. He continued along the left side for a mile and
+a half, when the mountains came close on the river, and
+rise to a considerable height with a partial covering of
+snow. From this place the course of the river was to the
+east of north. After ascending with some difficulty a high
+point of the mountain, he had a pleasing view of the valley
+he had passed, and which continued for about twenty miles
+further on each side of the middle fork, which then seemed
+to enter the mountains, and was lost to the view. In that
+direction, however, the hills which terminate the valley are
+much lower than those along either of the other forks, particularly
+the rapid one, where they continue rising in
+ranges above each other us far as the eye could reach.
+The general course too of the middle fork, as well as that
+of the gap which it forms on entering the mountains, is considerably
+to the south of west; circumstances which gave
+a decided preference to this branch as our future route.
+Captain Lewis now descended the mountain, and crossed
+over to the middle fork, about five miles distant, and found
+it still perfectly navigable. There is a very large and plain
+Indian road leading up it, but it has at present no tracks,
+except those of horses which seem to have used it last
+spring. The river here made a great bend to the southeast,
+and he therefore directed his course, as well as he
+could, to the spot where he had directed Chaboneau and
+Gass to repair, and struck the river about three miles above
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_343" id="Pg_343" title="Pg_343">[343]</a></span>their camp. It was now dark, and he, therefore, was
+obliged to make his way through the thick brush of the
+pulpy-leafed thorn and the prickly pear, for two hours before
+he reached their camp. Here he was fortunate enough
+to find the remains of some meat, which was his only food
+during the march of twenty-five miles to-day. He had seen
+no game of any sort except a few antelopes who were very
+shy. The soil of the plains is a meagre clay, of a light
+yellow colour, intermixed with a large proportion of gravel,
+and producing nothing but twisted or bearded grass, sedge
+and prickly pears. The drier parts of the low grounds are
+also more indifferent in point of soil than those further
+down the river, and although they have but little grass, are
+covered with southern wood, pulpy-leafed thorn, and prickly
+pears, while the moist parts are fertile, and supplied with
+fine grass and sandrushes.</p>
+
+<p>We passed within the first four and a quarter miles three
+small islands, and the same number of bad rapids. At the
+distance of three quarters of a mile is another rapid of difficult
+passage: three miles and three quarters beyond this
+are the forks of the river, in reaching which we had two
+islands and several bayous on different sides to pass.
+Here we had come nine miles and a quarter. The river was
+straighter and more rapid than yesterday, the labour of the
+navigation proportionally increased, and we therefore proceeded
+very slowly, as the feet of several of the men were
+swollen, and all were languid with fatigue. We arrived at
+the forks about four o'clock, but unluckily captain Lewis's
+note had been left on a green pole which the beaver had cut
+down and carried off with the note, an accident which deprived
+us of all information as to the character of the two
+branches of the river. Observing therefore that the northwest
+fork was most in our direction, and contained as much
+water as the other, we ascended it; we found it extremely
+rapid, and its waters were scattered in such a manner, that
+for a quarter of a mile we were forced to cut a passage
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_344" id="Pg_344" title="Pg_344">[344]</a></span>through the willowbrush that leaned over the little channels
+and united at the top. After going up it for a mile we
+encamped on an island which had been overflowed, and was
+still so wet that we were compelled to make beds of brush
+to keep ourselves out of the mud. Our provision consisted
+of two deer which had been killed in the morning.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 6. We proceeded up the northwest fork, which
+we found still very rapid, and divided by several islands,
+while the plains near it were intersected by bayous. After
+passing with much difficulty over stones and rapids, we reached
+a bluff on the right, at the distance of nine miles, our
+general course south 30&deg; west, and halted for breakfast.
+Here we were joined by Drewyer, who informed us of the
+state of the two rivers and of captain Lewis's note, and we
+immediately began to descend the river in order to take the
+other branch. On going down one of the canoes upset, and
+two others filled with water, by which all the baggage was
+wet, and several articles irrecoverably lost. As one of them
+swung round in a rapid current, Whitehouse was thrown out
+of her, and whilst down the canoe passed over him, and had
+the water been two inches shallower would have crushed
+him to pieces; but he escaped with a severe bruise of his
+leg. In order to repair these misfortunes we hastened
+to the forks, where we were joined by captain Lewis,
+and then passed over to the left side opposite to the entrance
+of the rapid fork, and encamped on a large gravelly
+bar, near which there was plenty of wood. Here we opened
+and exposed to dry all the articles which had suffered
+from the water; none of them were completely spoiled except
+a small keg of powder; the rest of the powder, which was
+distributed in the different canoes was quite safe, although
+it had been under the water upwards of an hour. The air is
+indeed so pure and dry that any wood-work immediately
+shrinks, unless it is kept filled with water; but we had planned
+our powder in small canisters of lead, each containing
+powder enough for the canister when melted into bullets,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_345" id="Pg_345" title="Pg_345">[345]</a></span>and smeared with cork and wax, which answered our purpose
+perfectly.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Lewis had risen very early, and having nothing
+to eat, sent out Drewyer to the woodland on the left in search
+of a deer, and directed sergeant Gass to keep along the middle
+branch to meet us if we were ascending it. He then set
+off with Chaboneau towards the forks, but five miles above
+them, hearing us on the left, struck the river as we were descending,
+and came on board at the forks.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening we killed three deer and four elk, which
+furnished us once more with a plentiful supply of meat. Shannon,
+the same man who was lost before for fifteen days, was
+sent out this morning to hunt, up the northwest fork; when
+we decided on returning, Drewyer was directed to go in quest
+of him, but he returned with information that he had gone
+several miles up the river without being able to find Shannon.
+We now had the trumpet sounded, and fired several
+guns, but he did not return, and we fear he is again lost.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 7. We remained here this morning for the
+purpose of making some celestial observations, and also in
+order to refresh the men, and complete the drying of the
+baggage. We obtained a meridian altitude which gave the
+latitude of our camp at north 45&deg; 2' 48" 8"'. We were now
+completely satisfied that the middle branch was the most
+navigable, and the true continuation of the Jefferson. The
+northwest fork seems to be the drain of the melting snows
+of the mountains, its course cannot be so long as the other
+branch, and although it contains now as great a quantity of
+water, yet the water has obviously overflowed the old bed,
+and spread into channels which leave the low grounds covered
+with young grass, resembling that of the adjoining lands,
+which are not inundated; whence we readily infer that the
+supply is more precarious than that of the other branch, the
+waters of which though more gentle are more constant. This
+northwest fork we called Wisdom river.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_346" id="Pg_346" title="Pg_346">[346]</a></span>As soon as the baggage was dried, it was reloaded on
+board the boats, but we now found it so much diminished,
+that we would we able to proceed with one canoe less. We
+therefore hauled up the superfluous one into a thicket of
+brush where we secured her against being swept away by
+the high tide. At one o'clock all set out, except captain
+Lewis who remained till the evening in order to complete the
+observation of equal altitudes: we passed several bends of
+the river both to the right and left, as well as a number of
+bayous on both sides, and made seven miles by water, though
+the distance by land is only three. We then encamped on a
+creek which rises in a high mountain to the northeast, and
+after passing through an open plain for several miles, discharges
+itself on the left, where it is a bold running stream
+twelve yards wide. We called it Turf creek, from the number
+of bogs and the quantity of turf on its waters. In the
+course of the afternoon there fell a shower of rain attended
+with thunder and lightning, which lasted about forty minutes,
+and the weather remained so cloudy all night that we were
+unable to take any lunar observations. Uneasy about Shannon,
+we sent R. Fields in search of him this morning, but
+we have as yet no intelligence of either of them. Our only
+game to-day was one deer.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 8. There was a heavy dew this morning. Having
+left one of the canoes, there are now more men to spare for
+the chace; and four were sent out at an early hour, after
+which we proceeded. We made five miles by water along
+two islands and several bayous, but as the river formed seven
+different bends towards the left, the distance by land was only
+two miles south of our encampment. At the end of that
+course we reached the upper principal entrance of a stream
+which we called Philanthropy river. This river empties itself
+into the Jefferson on the southeast side, by two channels
+a short distance from each other: from its size and its southeastern
+course, we presume that it rises in the Rocky mountains
+near the sources of the Madison. It is thirty yards
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_347" id="Pg_347" title="Pg_347">[347]</a></span>wide at its entrance, has a very gentle current, and is navigable
+for some distance. One mile above this river we passed
+an island, a second at the distance of six miles further,
+during which the river makes a considerable bend to the east.
+Reuben Fields returned about noon with information that he
+had gone up Wisdom river till its entrance into the mountains,
+but could find nothing of Shannon. We made seven miles beyond
+the last island, and after passing some small bayous, encamped
+under a few high trees on the left, at the distance of
+fourteen miles above Philanthropy river by water, though only
+six by land. The river has in fact become so very crooked
+that although by means of the pole which we now use constantly
+we make a considerable distance, yet being obliged to follow
+its windings, at the end of the day, we find ourselves very little
+advanced on our general course. It forms itself into small
+circular bends, which are so numerous that within the last
+fourteen miles we passed thirty-five of them, all inclining
+towards the right; it is however much more gentle and
+deep than below Wisdom river, and its general width is from
+thirty-five to forty-five yards. The general appearance of
+the surrounding country is that of a valley five or six miles
+wide, enclosed between two high mountains. The bottom
+is rich, with some small timber on the islands and along the
+river, which consists rather of underbrush, and a few cottonwood,
+birch, and willow-trees. The high grounds have
+some scattered pine, which just relieve the general nakedness
+of the hills and the plain, where there is nothing except
+grass. Along the bottoms we saw to-day a considerable
+quantity of the buffaloe clover, the sunflower, flax, green
+sward, thistle and several species of rye grass, some of which
+rise to the height of three or four feet. There is also a grass
+with a soft smooth leaf which rises about three feet high, and
+bears its seed very much like the timothy, but it does not
+grow luxuriantly nor would it apparently answer so well in
+our meadows as that plant. We preserved some of its seed,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_348" id="Pg_348" title="Pg_348">[348]</a></span>which are now ripe, in order to make the experiment. Our
+game consisted of deer and antelope, and we saw a number
+of geese and ducks just beginning to fly, and some cranes.
+Among the inferior animals we have an abundance of the
+large biting or hare fly, of which there are two species, one
+black, the other smaller and brown, except the head which
+is green. The green or blowing flies unite with them in
+swarms to attack us, and seem to have relieved the eye-gnats
+who have now disappeared. The musquitoes too are in large
+quantities, but not so troublesome as they were below.
+Through the valley are scattered bogs, and some very good
+turf, the earth of which the mud is composed is of a white
+or bluish white colour, and seems to be argilaceous. On all
+the three rivers, but particularly on the Philanthropy, are
+immense quantities of beaver, otter and muskrat. At our camp
+there was an abundance of rosebushes and briars, but so little
+timber that we were obliged to use willow brush for fuel.
+The night was again cloudy which prevented the lunar observations.</p>
+
+<p>On our right is the point of a high plain, which our Indian
+woman recognizes as the place called the Beaver's-head
+from a supposed resemblance to that object. This she says
+is not far from the summer retreat of her countrymen, which
+is on a river beyond the mountains, and running to the west.
+She is therefore certain that we shall meet them either on
+this river, or on that immediately west of its source, which
+judging from its present size, cannot be far distant. Persuaded
+of the absolute necessity of procuring horses to cross the
+mountains, it was determined that one of us should proceed in
+the morning to the head of the river, and penetrate the mountains
+till he found the Shoshonees or some other nation who
+could assist us in transporting our baggage, the greater part of
+which we shall be compelled to leave without the aid of horses.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 9. The morning was fair and fine. We set off
+early, and proceeded on very well, though there were more
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_349" id="Pg_349" title="Pg_349">[349]</a></span>rapids in the river than yesterday. At eight o'clock we halted
+for breakfast, part of which consisted of two fine geese killed
+before we stopped. Here we were joined by Shannon for whose
+safety we had been so uneasy. The day on which he left us
+on his way up Wisdom river, after hunting for some time and
+not seeing the party arrive, he returned to the place where
+he had left us. Not finding us there he supposed we had passed
+him, and he therefore marched up the river during all
+the next day, when he was convinced that we had not gone
+on, as the river was no longer navigable. He now followed
+the course of the river down to the forks, and then took the
+branch which we are pursuing. During the three days of his
+absence, he had been much wearied with his march, but had
+lived plentifully, and brought the skins of three deer. As far
+as he had ascended Wisdom river it kept its course obliquely
+down towards the Jefferson. Immediately after breakfast,
+captain Lewis took Drewyer, Shields and M&lsquo;Neal, and slinging
+their knapsacks they set out with a resolution to meet
+some nation of Indians before they returned, however long
+they might be separated from the party. He directed his
+course across the low ground to the plain on the right, leaving
+the Beaver's-head about two miles to the left. After
+walking eight miles to the river, which they waded, they went
+on to a commanding point from which he saw the place
+at which it enters the mountain, but as the distance
+would not permit his reaching it this evening, he descended
+towards the river, and after travelling eight miles
+further, encamped for the evening some miles below the
+mountain. They passed before reaching their camp a handsome
+little stream formed by some large springs which
+rise in the wide bottom on the left side of the river. In
+their way they killed two antelopes, and took with them
+enough of the meat for their supper and breakfast the
+next morning.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_350" id="Pg_350" title="Pg_350">[350]</a></span>In the meantime we proceeded, and in the course of eleven
+miles from our last encampment passed two small islands,
+sixteen short round bends in the river, and halted in a bend
+towards the right where we dined. The river increases in
+rapidity as we advance, and is so crooked that the eleven
+miles, which have cost us so much labour, only bring us four
+miles in a direct line. The weather became overcast towards
+evening, and we experienced a slight shower attended
+with thunder and lightning. The three hunters who were
+sent out killed only two antelopes; game of every kind being
+scarce.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, 10. Captain Lewis continued his route at an
+early hour through the wide bottom along the left bank of
+the river. At about five miles he passed a large creek,
+and then fell into an Indian road leading towards the point
+where the river entered the mountain. This he followed
+till he reached a high perpendicular cliff of rocks where the
+river makes its passage through the hills, and which he
+called the Rattlesnake cliff, from the number of that animal
+which he saw there: here he kindled a fire and waited
+the return of Drewyer, who had been sent out on the way
+to kill a deer: he came back about noon with the skin of
+three deer and the flesh of one of the best of them. After a
+hasty dinner they returned to the Indian road which they
+had left for a short distance to see the cliff. It led them
+sometimes over the hills, sometimes in the narrow bottoms
+of the river, till at the distance of fifteen miles from the
+Rattlesnake cliffs they reached a handsome open and level
+valley, where the river divided into two nearly equal branches.
+The mountains over which they passed were not very
+high, but are rugged and continue close to the river side.
+The river, which before it enters the mountain was rapid,
+rocky, very crooked, much divided by islands, and shallow,
+now becomes more direct in its course as it is hemmed in by
+the hills, and has not so many bends nor islands, but becomes
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_351" id="Pg_351" title="Pg_351">[351]</a></span>more rapid and rocky, and continues as shallow. On
+examining the two branches of the river it was evident that
+neither of them was navigable further. The road forked
+with the river; and captain Lewis therefore sent a man up
+each of them for a short distance, in order that by comparing
+their respective information he might be able to take
+that which seemed to have been most used this spring.
+From their account he resolved to choose that which led
+along the southwest branch of the river which was rather
+the smaller of the two: he accordingly wrote a note to captain
+Clarke informing him of the route, and recommending
+his staying with the party at the forks till he should return:
+This he fixed on a dry willow pole at the forks of the river,
+and then proceeded up the southwest branch; but after
+going a mile and a half the road became scarcely distinguishable,
+and the tracks of the horses which he had followed
+along the Jefferson were no longer seen. Captain
+Lewis therefore returned to examine the other road himself,
+and found that the horses had in fact passed along
+the western or right fork which had the additional recommendation
+of being larger than the other.</p>
+
+<p>This road he concluded to take, and therefore sent back
+Drewyer to the forks with a second letter to captain Clarke
+apprising him of the change, and then proceeded on. The
+valley of the west fork through which he now passed, bears
+a little to the north of west, and is confined within the space
+of about a mile in width, by rough mountains and steep
+cliffs of rock. At the distance of four and a half miles it
+opens into a beautiful and extensive plain about ten miles
+long and five or six in width: this is surrounded on all sides
+by higher rolling or waving country, intersected by several
+little rivulets from the mountains, each bordered by its wide
+meadows. The whole prospect is bounded by these mountains,
+which nearly surround it, so as to form a beautiful
+cove about sixteen or eighteen miles in diameter. On entering
+this cove the river bends to the northwest, and bathes
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_352" id="Pg_352" title="Pg_352">[352]</a></span>the foot of the hills to the right. At this place they halted
+for the night on the right side of the river, and having
+lighted a fire of dry willow brush, the only fuel which the
+country affords, supped on a deer. They had travelled to-day
+thirty miles by estimate: that is ten to the Rattlesnake
+cliff, fifteen to the forks of Jefferson river, and five to their
+encampment. In this cove some parts of the low grounds are
+tolerably fertile, but much the greater proportion is covered
+with prickly pear, sedge, twisted grass, the pulpy-leafed
+thorn, southern-wood, and wild sage, and like the uplands
+have a very inferior soil. These last have little more than
+the prickly pear and the twisted or bearded grass, nor are
+there in the whole cove more than three or four cottonwood
+trees, and those are small. At the apparent extremity
+of the bottom above, and about ten miles to the westward,
+are two perpendicular cliffs rising to a considerable
+height on each side of the river, and at this distance seem
+like a gate. In the meantime we proceeded at sunrise,
+and found the river not so rapid as yesterday, though more
+narrow and still very crooked, and so shallow that we were
+obliged to drag the canoes over many ripples in the course
+of the day. At six and a half miles we had passed eight
+bends on the north, and two small bayous on the left, and
+came to what the Indians call the Beaver's-head, a steep
+rocky cliff about one hundred and fifty feet high, near the
+right side of the river. Opposite to this at three hundred
+yards from the water is a low cliff about fifty feet in height,
+which forms the extremity of a spur of the mountain about
+four miles distant on the left. At four o'clock we were overtaken
+by a heavy shower of rain, attended with thunder,
+lightning and hail. The party were defended from the hail
+by covering themselves with willow bushes, but they got completely
+wet, and in this situation, as soon as the rain ceased,
+continued till we encamped. This we did at a low bluff
+on the left, after passing in the course of six and a half
+miles, four islands and eighteen bends on the right, and a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_353" id="Pg_353" title="Pg_353">[353]</a></span>low bluff and several bayous on the same side. We had now
+come thirteen miles, yet were only four on our route towards
+the mountains. The game seems to be declining, for
+our hunters procured only a single deer, though we found
+another for us that had been killed three days before by
+one of the hunters during an excursion, and left for us on
+the river.</p>
+
+
+<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p>
+
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_354" id="Pg_354" title="Pg_354">[354]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<!-- ROUTE MAP -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173"
+        alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Captain Lewis proceeds before the main body in search of the Shoshonees&mdash;his
+ill success on the first interview&mdash;the party with captain Lewis at length
+discover the source of the Missouri&mdash;captain Clarke with the main body still
+employed in ascending the Missouri or Jefferson river&mdash;captain Lewis's second
+interview with the Shoshonees attended with success&mdash;the interesting
+ceremonies of his first introduction to the natives, detailed at large&mdash;their
+hospitality&mdash;their mode of hunting the antelope&mdash;the difficulties encountered by
+captain Clarke and the main body in ascending the river&mdash;the suspicions entertained
+of captain Lewis by the Shoshonees, and his mode of allaying
+them&mdash;the ravenous appetites of the savages illustrated by a singular
+adventure&mdash;the Indians still jealous, and the great pains taken by captain Lewis to
+preserve their confidence&mdash;captain Clarke arrives with the main body
+exhausted by the difficulties which they underwent.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>Sunday, August 11. Captain Lewis again proceeded
+on early, but had the mortification to find that the track
+which he followed yesterday soon disappeared. He determined
+therefore to go on to the narrow gate or pass of the
+river which he had seen from the camp, in hopes of being
+able to recover the Indian path. For this purpose he
+waded across the river, which was now about twelve yards
+wide, and barred in several places by the dams of the beaver,
+and then went straight forward to the pass, sending one
+man along the river to his left, and another on the right,
+with orders to search for the road, and if they found it to
+let him know by raising a hat on the muzzle of their guns.
+In this order they went along for about five miles, when
+captain Lewis perceived with the greatest delight a man
+on horseback at the distance of two miles coming down the
+plain towards them. On examining him with the glass,
+captain Lewis saw that he was of a different nation from
+any Indians we had hitherto met: he was armed with a bow
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_355" id="Pg_355" title="Pg_355">[355]</a></span>and a quiver of arrows; mounted on an elegant horse without
+a saddle, and a small string attached to the under jaw
+answered as a bridle. Convinced that he was a Shoshonee,
+and knowing how much of our success depended on the
+friendly offices of that nation, captain Lewis was full of
+anxiety to approach without alarming him, and endeavour
+to convince him that he was a white man. He therefore,
+proceeded on towards the Indian at his usual pace, when
+they were within a mile of each other the Indian suddenly
+stopt, captain Lewis immediately followed his example,
+took his blanket from his knapsack, and holding it with
+both hands at the two corners, threw it above his head and
+unfolded it as he brought it to the ground as if in the act
+of spreading it. This signal which originates in the practice
+of spreading a robe or a skin, as a seat for guests to
+whom they wish to show a distinguished kindness, is the
+universal sign of friendship among the Indians on the Missouri
+and the Rocky mountains. As usual, captain Lewis
+repeated this signal three times: still the Indian kept his
+position, and looked with an air of suspicion on Drewyer
+and Shields who were now advancing on each side. Captain
+Lewis was afraid to make any signal for them to halt,
+lest he should increase the suspicions of the Indian, who
+began to be uneasy, and they too distant to hear his
+voice. He, therefore, took from his pack some beads, a
+looking-glass and a few trinkets, which he had brought for
+the purpose, and leaving his gun advanced unarmed towards
+the Indian. He remained in the same position till captain
+Lewis came within two hundred yards of him, when he
+turned his horse, and began to move off slowly; captain
+Lewis then called out to him, in as loud a voice as he could,
+repeating the word, tabba bone! which in the Shoshonee
+language means white man; but looking over his shoulder
+the Indian kept his eyes on Drewyer and Shields, who were
+still advancing, without recollecting the impropriety of doing
+so at such a moment, till captain Lewis made a signal
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_356" id="Pg_356" title="Pg_356">[356]</a></span>to them to halt; this Drewyer obeyed, but Shields did not
+observe it, and still went forward: seeing Drewyer halt the
+Indian turned his horse about as if to wait for captain
+Lewis who now reached within one hundred and fifty paces,
+repeating the word tabba bone, and holding up the trinkets
+in his hand, at the same time stripping up the sleeve of his
+shirt to show the colour of his skin. The Indian suffered
+him to advance within one hundred paces, then suddenly
+turned his horse, and giving him the whip, leaped across
+the creek, and disappeared in an instant among the willow
+bushes: with him vanished all the hopes which the sight of
+him had inspired of a friendly introduction to his countrymen.
+Though sadly disappointed by the imprudence of his
+two men, captain Lewis determined to make the incident
+of some use, and therefore calling the men to him they all
+set off after the track of the horse, which they hoped might
+lead them to the camp of the Indian who had fled, or if he
+had given the alarm to any small party, their track might
+conduct them to the body of the nation. They now fixed
+a small flag of the United States on a pole, which was
+carried by one of the men as a signal of their friendly intentions,
+should the Indians observe them as they were advancing.
+The route lay across an island formed by a nearly
+equal division of the creek in the bottom: after reaching
+the open grounds on the right side of the creek, the track
+turned towards some high hills about three miles distant.
+Presuming that the Indian camp might be among these
+hills, and that by advancing hastily he might be seen and
+alarm them, captain Lewis sought an elevated situation
+near the creek, had a fire made of willow brush, and took
+breakfast. At the same time he prepared a small assortment
+of beads, trinkets, awls, some paint and a looking
+glass, and placed them on a pole near the fire, in order
+that if the Indians returned they might discover that
+the party were white men and friends. Whilst making
+these preparations a very heavy shower of rain and hail
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_357" id="Pg_357" title="Pg_357">[357]</a></span>came on, and wet them to the skin: in about twenty minutes
+it was over, and captain Lewis then renewed his pursuit,
+but as the rain had made the grass which the horse
+had trodden down rise again, his track could with difficulty
+be distinguished. As they went along they passed several
+places where the Indians seemed to have been digging
+roots to-day, and saw the fresh track of eight or ten horses,
+but they had been wandering about in so confused a
+manner that he could not discern any particular path,
+and at last, after pursuing it about four miles along the
+valley to the left under the foot of the hills, he lost the
+track of the fugitive Indian. Near the head of the valley
+they had passed a large bog covered with moss and
+tall grass, among which were several springs of pure
+cold water: they now turned a little to the left along the
+foot of the high hills, and reached a small creek where
+they encamped for the night, having made about twenty
+miles, though not more than ten in a direct line from their
+camp of last evening.</p>
+
+<p>The morning being rainy and wet we did not set out
+with the canoes till after an early breakfast. During the
+first three miles we passed three small islands, six bayous
+on different sides of the river, and the same number of
+bends towards the right. Here we reached the lower
+point of a large island which we called Three-thousand-mile
+island, on account of its being at that distance from
+the mouth of the Missouri. It is three miles and a half
+in length, and as we coasted along it we passed several
+small bends of the river towards the left, and two bayous
+on the same side. After leaving the upper point of
+Three-thousand-mile island, we followed the main channel
+on the left side, which led us by three small islands
+and several small bayous, and fifteen bends towards the
+right. Then at the distance of seven miles and a half
+we encamped on the upper end of a large island near
+the right. The river was shallow and rapid, so that we
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_358" id="Pg_358" title="Pg_358">[358]</a></span>were obliged to be in the water during a great part of
+the day, dragging the canoes over the shoals and ripples.
+Its course too was so crooked, that notwithstanding we
+had made fourteen miles by water, we were only five
+miles from our encampment of last night. The country
+consists of a low ground on the river about five miles
+wide, and succeeded on both sides by plains of the same
+extent which reach to the base of the mountains. These
+low grounds are very much intersected by bayous, and in
+those on the left side is a large proportion of bog covered
+with tall grass, which would yield a fine turf. There are
+very few trees, and those small narrow-leafed cottonwood:
+the principal growth being the narrow-leafed willow,
+and currant bushes, among which were some bunches
+of privy near the river. We saw a number of geese,
+ducks, beaver, otter, deer and antelopes, of all which
+one beaver was killed with a pole from the boat, three
+otters with a tomahawk, and the hunters brought in three
+deer and an antelope.</p>
+
+<p>Monday, 12. This morning as soon as it was light captain
+Lewis sent Drewyer to reconnoitre if possible the route
+of the Indians: in about an hour and a half he returned,
+after following the tracks of the horse which we had lost
+yesterday to the mountains, where they ascended and were
+no longer visible. Captain Lewis now decided on making
+the circuit along the foot of the mountains which
+formed the cove, expecting by that means to find a road
+across them, and accordingly sent Drewyer on one side,
+and Shields on the other. In this way they crossed four
+small rivulets near each other, on which were some bowers
+or conical lodges of willow brush, which seemed to have
+been made recently. From the manner in which the ground
+in the neighbourhood was torn up the Indians appeared to
+have been gathering roots; but captain Lewis could not discover
+what particular plant they were searching for, nor
+could he find any fresh track, till at the distance of four
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_359" id="Pg_359" title="Pg_359">[359]</a></span>miles from his camp he met a large plain Indian road which
+came into the cove from the northeast, and wound along
+the foot of the mountains to the southwest, approaching
+obliquely the main stream he had left yesterday. Down this
+road he now went towards the southwest: at the distance
+of five miles it crossed a large run or creek, which is a principal
+branch of the main stream into which it falls, just
+above the high cliffs or gates observed yesterday, and which
+they now saw below them: here they halted and breakfasted
+on the last of the deer, keeping a small piece of pork in
+reserve against accident: they then continued through the
+low bottom along the main stream near the foot of the mountains
+on their right. For the first five miles the valley continues
+towards the southwest from two to three miles in
+width; then the main stream, which had received two small
+branches from the left in the valley, turns abruptly to the
+west through a narrow bottom between the mountains.
+The road was still plain, and as it led them directly on towards
+the mountain the stream gradually became smaller,
+till after going two miles it had so greatly diminished in
+width that one of the men in a fit of enthusiasm, with one
+foot on each side of the river, thanked God that he had
+lived to bestride the Missouri. As they went along their hopes
+of soon seeing the waters of the Columbia arose almost to
+painful anxiety, when after four miles from the last abrupt
+turn of the river, they reached a small gap formed by the
+high mountains which recede on each side, leaving room for
+the Indian road. From the foot of one of the lowest of these
+mountains, which rises with a gentle ascent of about half a
+mile, issues the remotest water of the Missouri. They had
+now reached the hidden sources of that river, which had
+never yet been seen by civilized man; and as they quenched
+their thirst at the chaste and icy fountain&mdash;as they sat down
+by the brink of that little rivulet, which yielded its distant
+and modest tribute to the parent ocean, they felt themselves
+rewarded for all their labours and all their difficulties. They
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_360" id="Pg_360" title="Pg_360">[360]</a></span>left reluctantly this interesting spot, and pursuing the Indian
+road through the interval of the hills, arrived at the
+top of a ridge, from which they saw high mountains partially
+covered with snow still to the west of them. The
+ridge on which they stood formed the dividing line between
+the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. They followed
+a descent much steeper than that on the eastern side,
+and at the distance of three quarters of a mile reached a
+handsome bold creek of cold clear water running to the
+westward. They stopped to taste for the first time the waters
+of the Columbia; and after a few minutes followed the
+road across steep hills and low hollows, till they reached a
+spring on the side of a mountain: here they found a sufficient
+quantity of dry willow brush for fuel, and therefore
+halted for the night; and having killed nothing in the course
+of the day supped on their last piece of pork, and trusted to
+fortune for some other food to mix with a little flour and
+parched meal, which was all that now remained of their
+provisions. Before reaching the fountain of the Missouri
+they saw several large hawks nearly black, and some of the
+heath cocks: these last have a long pointed tail, and are of
+a uniform dark brown colour, much larger than the common
+dunghill fowl, and similar in habits and the mode of
+flying to the grouse or prairie hen. Drewyer also wounded
+at the distance of one hundred and thirty yards an animal
+which we had not yet seen, but which after falling recovered
+itself and escaped. It seemed to be of the fox kind,
+rather larger than the small wolf of the plains, and with a
+skin in which black, reddish brown, and yellow, were curiously
+intermixed. On the creek of the Columbia they
+found a species of currant which does not grow as high as
+that of the Missouri, though it is more branching, and its
+leaf, the under disk of which is covered with a hairy pubescence,
+is twice as large. The fruit is of the ordinary size
+and shape of the currant, and supported in the usual manner,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_361" id="Pg_361" title="Pg_361">[361]</a></span>but is of a deep purple colour, acid, and of a very inferior
+flavour.</p>
+
+<p>We proceeded on in the boats, but as the river was very
+shallow and rapid, the navigation is extremely difficult, and
+the men who are almost constantly in the water are getting
+feeble and sore, and so much wore down by fatigue that
+they are very anxious to commence travelling by land. We
+went along the main channel which is on the right side, and
+after passing nine bends in that direction, three islands and
+a number of bayous, reached at the distance of five and a
+half miles the upper point of a large island. At noon there
+was a storm of thunder which continued about half an hour;
+after which we proceeded, but as it was necessary to drag
+the canoes over the shoals and rapids, made but little progress.
+On leaving the island we passed a number of short
+bends, several bayous, and one run of water on the right
+side, and having gone by four small and two large islands,
+encamped on a smooth plain to the left near a few cottonwood
+trees: our journey by water was just twelve miles,
+and four in a direct line. The hunters supplied us with
+three deer and a fawn.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 13. Very early in the morning captain Lewis
+resumed the Indian road, which led him in a western direction,
+through an open broken country; on the left was a deep
+valley at the foot of a high range of mountains running from
+southeast to northwest, with their sides better clad with
+timber than the hills to which we have been for some time
+accustomed, and their tops covered in part with snow. At
+five miles distance, after following the long descent of another
+valley, he reached a creek about ten yards wide, and on
+rising the hill beyond it had a view of a handsome little valley
+on the left, about a mile in width, through which they
+judged, from the appearance of the timber, that some stream
+of water most probably passed. On the creek they had just
+left were some bushes of the white maple, the sumach of the
+small species with the winged rib, and a species of honeysuckle,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_362" id="Pg_362" title="Pg_362">[362]</a></span>resembling in its general appearance and the shape
+of its leaf the small honeysuckle of the Missouri, except
+that it is rather larger, and bears a globular berry, about the
+size of a garden pea, of a white colour, and formed of a
+soft white mucilaginous substance, in which are several
+small brown seeds irregularly scattered without any cell,
+and enveloped in a smooth thin pellicle.</p>
+
+<p>They proceeded along a waving plain parallel to this valley
+for about four miles, when they discovered two women,
+a man and some dogs on an eminence at the distance of a
+mile before them. The strangers first viewed them apparently
+with much attention for a few minutes, and then two
+of them sat down as if to await captain Lewis's arrival. He
+went on till he reached within about half a mile, then ordered
+his party to stop, put down his knapsack and rifle, and unfurling
+the flag advanced alone towards the Indians. The
+females soon retreated behind the hill, but the man remained
+till captain Lewis came within a hundred yards from him,
+when he too went off, though captain Lewis called out tabba
+bone! loud enough to be heard distinctly. He hastened to
+the top of the hill, but they had all disappeared. The dogs
+however were less shy, and came close to him; he therefore
+thought of tying a handkerchief with some beads round
+their necks, and then let them loose to convince the fugitives
+of his friendly disposition, but they would not suffer him to
+take hold of them, and soon left him. He now made a signal
+to the men, who joined him, and then all followed the track
+of the Indians, which led along a continuation of the same
+road they had been already travelling. It was dusty and
+seemed to have been much used lately both by foot passengers
+and horsemen. They had not gone along it more than
+a mile when on a sudden they saw three female Indians,
+from whom they had been concealed by the deep ravines
+which intersected the road, till they were now within thirty
+paces of each other; one of them a young woman immediately
+took to flight, the other two, an elderly woman and a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_363" id="Pg_363" title="Pg_363">[363]</a></span>little girl, seeing we were too near for them to escape, sat
+on the ground, and holding down their heads seemed as if
+reconciled to the death which they supposed awaited them.
+The same habit of holding down the head and inviting the
+enemy to strike, when all chance of escape is gone, is preserved
+in Egypt to this day. Captain Lewis instantly put
+down his rifle, and advancing towards them, took the woman
+by the hand, raised her up, and repeated the word tabba
+bone! at the sane time stripping up his shirt sleeve to prove
+that he was a white man, for his hands and face had become
+by constant exposure quite as dark as their own. She appeared
+immediately relieved from her alarm, and Drewyer
+and Shields now coming up, captain Lewis gave them some
+beads, a few awls, pewter mirrors, and a little paint, and
+told Drewyer to request the woman to recall her companion
+who had escaped to some distance, and by alarming the Indians
+might cause them to attack him without any time for
+explanation. She did as she was desired, and the young woman
+returned almost out of breath: captain Lewis gave her
+an equal portion of trinkets, and painted the tawny cheeks
+of all three of them with vermillion, a ceremony which
+among the Shoshonees is emblematic of peace. After they
+had become composed, he informed them by signs of his wish
+to go to their camp in order to see their chiefs and warriors;
+they readily obeyed, and conducted the party along the
+same road down the river. In this way they marched two
+miles, when they met a troop of nearly sixty warriors mounted
+on excellent horses riding at full speed towards them.
+As they advanced captain Lewis put down his gun, and
+went with the flag about fifty paces in advance. The chief
+who with two men were riding in front of the main body,
+spoke to the women, who now explained that the party was
+composed of white men, and showed exultingly the presents
+they had received. The three men immediately leaped from
+their horses, came up to Captain Lewis and embraced him
+with great cordiality, putting their left arm over his right
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_364" id="Pg_364" title="Pg_364">[364]</a></span>shoulder and clasping his back, applying at the same time
+their left cheek to his, and frequently vociferating ah hi e!
+ah hi e! "I am much pleased, I am much rejoiced." The
+whole body of warriors now came forward, and our men received
+the caresses, and no small share of the grease and
+paint of their new friends. After this fraternal embrace, of
+which the motive was much more agreeable than the manner,
+captain Lewis lighted a pipe and offered it to the Indians
+who had now seated themselves in a circle around the party.
+But before they would receive this mark of friendship
+they pulled off their moccasins, a custom as we afterwards
+learnt, which indicates the sacred sincerity of their professions
+when they smoke with a stranger, and which imprecates
+on themselves the misery of going barefoot forever if
+they are faithless to their words, a penalty by no means
+light to those who rove over the thorny plains of their country.
+It is not unworthy to remark the analogy which some
+of the customs of those wild children of the wilderness bear
+to those recorded in holy writ. Moses is admonished to pull
+off his shoes, for the place on which he stood was holy
+ground. Why this was enjoined as an act of peculiar reverence;
+whether it was from the circumstance that in the
+arid region in which the patriarch then resided, it was
+deemed a test of the sincerity of devotion to walk upon the
+burning sands barefooted, in some measure analogous to the
+pains inflicted by the prickly pear, does not appear. After
+smoking a few pipes, some trifling presents were distributed
+amongst them, with which they seemed very much pleased,
+particularly with the blue beads and the vermillion. Captain
+Lewis then informed the chief that the object of his
+visit was friendly, and should be explained as soon as he
+reached their camp; but that in the meantime as the sun
+was oppressive, and no water near, he wished to go there as
+soon as possible. They now put on their moccasins, and
+their chief, whose name was Cameahwait, made a short
+speech to the warriors. Captain Lewis then gave him the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_365" id="Pg_365" title="Pg_365">[365]</a></span>flag, which he informed him was among white men the emblem
+of peace, and now that he had received it was to be in
+future the bond of union between them. The chief then
+moved on, our party followed him, and the rest of the warriors
+in a squadron, brought up the rear. After marching
+a mile they were halted by the chief, who made a second
+harangue, on which six or eight young men rode forward to
+their camp, and no further regularity was observed in the
+order of march. At the distance of four miles from where
+they had first met, they reached the Indian camp, which
+was in a handsome level meadow on the bank of the river.
+Here they were introduced into an old leathern lodge which
+the young men who had been sent from the party had fitted
+up for their reception. After being seated on green boughs
+and antelope skins, one of the warriors pulled up the grass
+in the centre of the lodge so as to form a vacant circle of
+two feet diameter, in which he kindled a fire. The chief
+then produced his pipe and tobacco, the warriors all pulled
+off their moccasins, and our party was requested to take off
+their own. This being done, the chief lighted his pipe at the
+fire within the magic circle, and then retreating from it
+began a speech several minutes long, at the end of which he
+pointed the stem towards the four cardinal points of the
+heavens, beginning with the east and concluding with the
+north. After this ceremony he presented the stem in the
+same way to captain Lewis, who supposing it an invitation
+to smoke, put out his hand to receive the pipe, but the chief
+drew it back, and continued to repeat the same offer three
+times, after which he pointed the stem first to the heavens,
+then to the centre of the little circle, took three whiffs himself,
+and presented it again to captain Lewis. Finding that
+this last offer was in good earnest, he smoked a little, the
+pipe was then held to each of the white men, and after they
+had taken a few whiffs was given to the warriors. This
+pipe was made of a dense transparent green stone, very
+highly polished; about two and an half inches long, and of an
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_366" id="Pg_366" title="Pg_366">[366]</a></span>oval figure, the bowl being in the same situation with the
+stem. A small piece of burnt clay is placed in the bottom
+of the bowl to separate the tobacco from the end of the stem,
+and is of an irregularly round figure, not fitting the tube
+perfectly close, in order that the smoke may pass with facility.
+The tobacco is of the same kind with that used by the Minnetarees,
+Mandans and Ricaras of the Missouri. The Shoshonees
+do not cultivate this plant, but obtain it from the
+Rocky mountain Indians, and some of the bands of their
+own nation who live further south. The ceremony of
+smoking being concluded, captain Lewis explained to the
+chief the purposes of his visit, and as by this time all the
+women and children of the camp had gathered around the
+lodge to indulge in a view of the first white men they had
+ever seen, he distributed among them the remainder of the
+small articles he had brought with him. It was now late in
+the afternoon, and our party had tasted no food since the
+night before. On apprising the chief of this circumstance,
+he said that he had nothing but berries to eat, and presented
+some cakes made of serviceberry and chokecherries
+which had been dried in the sun. On these captain Lewis
+made a hearty meal, and then walked down towards the river:
+he found it a rapid clear stream forty yards wide and three
+feet deep; the banks were low and abrupt, like those of the
+upper part of the Missouri, and the bed formed of loose
+stones and gravel. Its course, as far as he could observe it,
+was a little to the north of west, and was bounded on each
+side by a range of high mountains, of which those on the
+east are the lowest and most distant from the river.</p>
+
+<p>The chief informed him that this stream discharged itself
+at the distance of half a day's march, into another of
+twice its size, coming from the southwest; but added, on
+further inquiry, that there was scarcely more timber below
+the junction of those rivers than in this neighbourhood,
+and that the river was rocky, rapid, and so closely confined
+between high mountains, that it was impossible to pass down
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_367" id="Pg_367" title="Pg_367">[367]</a></span>it, either by land or water to the great lake, where as he
+had understood the white men lived. This information
+was far from being satisfactory; for there was no timber
+here that would answer the purpose of building canoes, indeed
+not more than just sufficient for fuel, and even that
+consisted of the narrow-leafed cotton wood, the red and the
+narrow-leafed willow, the chokecherry, serviceberry and a
+few currant bushes such as are common on the Missouri.
+The prospect of going on by land is more pleasant; for there
+are great numbers of horses feeding in every direction
+round the camp, which will enable us to transport our
+stores if necessary over the mountains. Captain Lewis
+returned from the river to his lodge, and on his way an
+Indian invited him into his bower and gave him a small
+morsel of boiled antelope and a piece of fresh salmon
+roasted. This was the first salmon he had seen, and perfectly
+satisfied him that he was now on the waters of the
+Pacific. On reaching this lodge, he resumed his conversation
+with the chief, after which he was entertained with
+a dance by the Indians. It now proved, as our party had
+feared, that the men whom they had first met this morning
+had returned to the camp and spread the alarm that their
+enemies, the Minnetarees of fort de Prairie, whom they call
+Pahkees, were advancing on them. The warriors instantly
+armed themselves and were coming down in expectation of
+an attack, when they were agreeably surprised by meeting
+our party. The greater part of them were armed with
+bows and arrows, and shields, but a few had small fusils,
+such as are furnished by the northwest company traders,
+and which they had obtained from the Indians on the
+Yellowstone, with whom they are now at peace. They had
+reason to dread the approach of the Pahkees, who had attacked
+them in the course of this spring and totally defeated
+them. On this occasion twenty of their warriors were either
+killed or made prisoners, and they lost their whole camp
+except the leathern lodge which they had fitted up for us,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_368" id="Pg_368" title="Pg_368">[368]</a></span>and were now obliged to live in huts of a conical figure
+made with willow brush. The music and dancing, which
+was in no respect different from those of the Missouri Indians,
+continued nearly all night; but captain Lewis retired
+to rest about twelve o'clock, when the fatigues of the day
+enabled him to sleep though he was awaked several times
+by the yells of the dancers.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst all these things were occurring to captain Lewis
+we were slowly and laboriously ascending the river. For
+the first two and a half miles we went along the island opposite
+to which we encamped last evening, and soon reached
+a second island behind which comes in a small creek on the
+left side of the river. It rises in the mountains to the east
+and forms a handsome valley for some miles from its mouth,
+where it is a bold running stream about seven yards wide:
+we called it M&lsquo;Neal's creek, after Hugh M&lsquo;Neal one of our
+party. Just above this stream and at the distance of four
+miles from our camp is a point of limestone rock on the
+right, about seventy feet high, forming a cliff over the river.
+From the top of it the Beaver's-head bore north 24&deg; east
+twelve miles distant, the course of Wisdom river, that is
+the direction of its valley through the mountains is north
+25&deg; west, while the gap through which the Jefferson enters
+the mountains is ten miles above us on a course south 18&deg;
+west. From this limestone rock we proceeded along several
+islands, on both sides, and after making twelve miles
+arrived at a cliff of high rocks on the right, opposite to
+which we encamped in a smooth level prairie, near a few
+cottonwood trees; but were obliged to use the dry willow
+brush for fuel. The river is still very crooked, the
+bends short and abrupt, and obstructed by so many shoals,
+over which the canoes were to be dragged, that the men
+were in the water three fourths of the day. They saw
+numbers of otter, some beaver, antelopes, ducks, geese,
+and cranes, but they killed nothing except a single deer.
+They, however, caught some very fine trout, as they have
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_369" id="Pg_369" title="Pg_369">[369]</a></span>done for several days past. The weather had been cloudy
+and cool during the forepart of the day, and at eight o'clock
+a shower of rain fell.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 14. In order to give time for the boats to
+reach the forks of Jefferson river, captain Lewis determined
+to remain here and obtain all the information he could
+collect with regard to the country. Having nothing to eat
+but a little flour and parched meal, with the berries of the
+Indians, he sent out Drewyer and Shields, who borrowed
+horses from the natives, to hunt for a few hours. About
+the same time the young warriors set out for the same purpose.
+There are but few elk or blacktailed deer in this
+neighbourhood, and as the common red-deer secrete themselves
+in the bushes when alarmed, they are soon safe from
+the arrows, which are but feeble weapons against any animals
+which the huntsmen cannot previously run down
+with their horses. The chief game of the Shoshonees,
+therefore, is the antelope, which when pursued retreats to
+the open plains, where the horses have full room for the
+chase. But such is its extraordinary fleetness and wind
+that a single horse has no possible chance of outrunning it,
+or tiring it down; and the hunters are therefore obliged to
+resort to stratagem. About twenty Indians, mounted on
+fine horses, and armed with bows and arrows, left the camp;
+in a short time they descried a herd of ten antelopes: they
+immediately separated into little squads of two or three,
+and formed a scattered circle round the herd for five or six
+miles, keeping at a wary distance, so as not to alarm them
+till they were perfectly inclosed, and usually selecting some
+commanding eminence as a stand. Having gained their
+positions, a small party rode towards the herd, and with
+wonderful dexterity the huntsman preserved his seat, and
+the horse his footing, as he ran at full speed over the hills,
+and down the steep ravines, and along the borders of the
+precipices. They were soon outstripped by the antelopes,
+which on gaining the other extremity of the circle were driven
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_370" id="Pg_370" title="Pg_370">[370]</a></span>back and pursued by the fresh hunters. They turned
+and flew, rather than ran in another direction; but there too,
+they found new enemies. In this way they were alternately
+pursued backwards and forwards, till at length, notwithstanding
+the skill of the hunters, they all escaped, and the
+party after running for two hours returned without having
+caught any thing, and their horses foaming with sweat.
+This chase, the greater part of which was seen from the
+camp, formed a beautiful scene; but to the hunters is
+exceedingly laborious, and so unproductive, even when they
+are able to worry the animal down and shoot him, that forty
+or fifty hunters will sometimes be engaged for half a day
+without obtaining more than two or three antelopes. Soon
+after they returned, our two huntsmen came in with no better
+success. Captain Lewis therefore made a little paste
+with the flour, and the addition of some berries formed a
+very palatable repast. Having now secured the good will
+of Cameahwait, captain Lewis informed him of his wish
+that he would speak to the warriors and endeavour to engage
+them to accompany him to the forks of Jefferson river,
+where by this time another chief with a large party of
+white men were waiting his return: that it would be necessary
+to take about thirty horses to transport the merchandize;
+that they should be well rewarded for their trouble;
+and that when all the party should have reached the
+Shoshonee camp they would remain some time among them,
+and trade for horses, as well as concert plans for furnishing
+them in future with regular supplies of merchandize. He
+readily consented to do so, and after collecting the tribe together
+he made a long harangue, and in about an hour and
+a half returned, and told captain Lewis that they would be
+ready to accompany him in the morning.</p>
+
+<p>As the early part of the day was cold, and the men stiff
+and sore from the fatigues of yesterday: we did not set
+out till seven o'clock. At the distance of a mile we passed
+a bold stream on the right, which comes from a snowy
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_371" id="Pg_371" title="Pg_371">[371]</a></span>mountain to the north, and at its entrance is four yards
+wide, and three feet in depth: we called it Track creek: at
+six miles further we reached another stream which heads
+in some springs at the foot of the mountains on the left.
+Alter passing a number of bayous and small islands on each
+side, we encamped about half a mile by land below the Rattlesnake
+cliffs. The river was cold, shallow, and as it approached
+the mountains formed one continued rapid, over
+which we were obliged to drag the boats with great labour
+and difficulty. By using constant exertions we succeeded
+in making fourteen miles, but this distance did not
+carry us more than six and a half in a straight line: several
+of the men have received wounds and lamed themselves
+in hauling the boats over the stones. The hunters supplied
+them with five deer and an antelope.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 15. Captain Lewis rose early, and having eaten
+nothing yesterday except his scanty meal of flour and
+berries felt the inconveniences of extreme hunger. On inquiry
+he found that his whole stock of provisions consisted
+of two pounds of flour. This he ordered to be divided into
+two equal parts, and one half of it boiled with the berries
+into a sort of pudding: and after presenting a large share
+to the chief, he and his three men breakfasted on the remainder.
+Cameahwait was delighted at this new dish; he
+took a little of the flour in his hand tasted and examined it
+very narrowly, asking if it was made of roots; captain Lewis
+explained the process of preparing it, and he said it was the
+best thing he had eaten for a long time.</p>
+
+<p>This being finished, captain Lewis now endeavoured to
+hasten the departure of the Indians who still hesitated, and
+seemed reluctant to move, although the chief addressed
+them twice for the purpose of urging them: on inquiring
+the reason, Cameahwait told him that some foolish person
+had suggested that he was in league with their enemies the
+Pahkees, and had come only to draw them into ambuscade,
+but that he himself did not believe it: captain Lewis felt
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_372" id="Pg_372" title="Pg_372">[372]</a></span>uneasy at this insinuation: he knew the suspicious temper of
+the Indians, accustomed from their infancy to regard every
+stranger as an enemy, and saw that if this suggestion were
+not instantly checked, it might hazard the total failure of the
+enterprise. Assuming therefore a serious air, he told the
+chief that he was sorry to find they placed so little confidence
+in him, but that he pardoned their suspicions because
+they were ignorant of the character of white men, among
+whom it was disgraceful to lie or entrap even an enemy by
+falsehood; that if they continued to think thus meanly of us
+they might be assured no white men would ever come to
+supply them with arms and merchandize; that there was at
+this moment a party of white men waiting to trade with
+them at the forks of the river; and that if the greater part
+of the tribe entertained any suspicion, he hoped there were
+still among them some who were men, who would go and
+see with their own eyes the truth of what he said, and who,
+even if there was any danger, were not afraid to die. To
+doubt the courage of an Indian is to touch the tenderest
+string of his mind, and the surest way to rouse him to any
+dangerous achievement. Cameahwait instantly replied,
+that he was not afraid to die, and mounting his horse, for the
+third time harangued the warriors: he told them that he was
+resolved to go if he went alone, or if he were sure of perishing;
+that he hoped there were among those who heard him
+some who were not afraid to die, and who would prove it
+by mounting their horses and following him. This harangue
+produced an effect on six or eight only of the warriors, who
+now joined their chief. With these captain Lewis smoked a
+pipe, and then fearful of some change in their capricious
+temper set out immediately. It was about twelve o'clock
+when his small party left the camp, attended by Cameahwait
+and the eight warriors; their departure seemed to spread
+a gloom over the village; those who would not venture to
+go were sullen and melancholy, and the woman were crying
+and imploring the Great Spirit to protect their warriors as
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_373" id="Pg_373" title="Pg_373">[373]</a></span>if they were going to certain destruction: yet such is the
+wavering inconstancy of these savages, that captain Lewis's
+party had not gone far when they were joined by ten or
+twelve more warriors, and before reaching the creek which
+they had passed on the morning of the 13th, all the men of
+the nation and a number of women had overtaken them,
+and had changed from the surly ill temper in which they
+were two hours ago, to the greatest cheerfulness and gayety.
+When they arrived at the spring on the side of the mountain
+where the party had encamped on the 12th, the chief
+insisted on halting to let the horses graze; to which captain
+Lewis assented and smoked with them. They are excessively
+fond of the pipe, in which however they are not able to indulge
+much as they do not cultivate tobacco themselves, and
+their rugged country affords them but few articles to exchange
+for it. Here they remained for about an hour, and
+on setting out, by engaging to pay four of the party, captain
+Lewis obtained permission for himself and each of his
+men to ride behind an Indian; but he soon found riding without
+stirrup more tiresome than walking, and therefore
+dismounted, making the Indian carry his pack. About sunset
+they reached the upper part of the level valley in the
+cove through which he had passed, and which they now
+called Shoshonee cove. The grass being burnt on the north
+side of the river they crossed over to the south, and encamped
+about four miles above the narrow pass between the hills
+noticed as they traversed the cove before. The river was
+here about six yards wide, and frequently dammed up by
+the beaver. Drewyer had been sent forward to hunt, but
+he returned in the evening unsuccessful, and their only supper
+therefore was the remaining pound of flour stirred in a
+little boiling water and then divided between the four white
+men and two of the Indians.</p>
+
+<p>In order not to exhaust the strength of the men, captain
+Clarke did not leave his camp till after breakfast. Although,
+he was scarcely half a mile below the Rattlesnake cliffs he
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_374" id="Pg_374" title="Pg_374">[374]</a></span>was obliged to make a circuit of two miles by water before
+he reached them. The river now passed between low and
+rugged mountains and cliffs formed of a mixture of limestone
+and a hard black rock, with no covering except a few scattered
+pines. At the distance of four miles is a bold little
+stream which throws itself from the mountains down a steep
+precipice of rocks on the left. One mile farther is a second
+point of rocks, and an island, about a mile beyond which is
+a creek on the right, ten yards wide and three feet three
+inches in depth, with a strong current: we called it Willard's
+creek after one of our men, Alexander Willard.
+Three miles beyond this creek, after passing a high cliff on
+the right opposite to a steep hill, we reached a small meadow
+on the left bank of the river. During its passage through
+these hills to Willard's creek the river had been less torturous
+than usual, so that in the first six miles to Willard's
+creek we had advanced four miles on our route. We continued
+on for two miles, till we reached in the evening a
+small bottom covered with clover and a few cottonwood
+trees: here we passed the night near the remains of some
+old Indian lodges of brush. The river is as it has been for
+some days shallow and rapid; and our men, who are for
+hours together in the river, suffer not only from fatigue,
+but from the extreme coldness of the water, the temperature
+of which is as low as that of the freshest springs in our
+country. In walking along the side of the river, captain
+Clarke was very near being bitten twice by rattlesnakes,
+and the Indian woman narrowly escaped the same misfortune.
+We caught a number of fine trout; but the only game
+procured to-day was a buck, which had a peculiarly bitter
+taste, proceeding probably from its favourite food, the willow.</p>
+
+<p>Friday, 16. As neither our party nor the Indians had
+any thing to eat, captain Lewis sent two of his hunters
+ahead this morning to procure some provision: at the same
+time he requested Cameahwait to prevent his young men
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_375" id="Pg_375" title="Pg_375">[375]</a></span>from going out, lest by their noise they might alarm the
+game; but this measure immediately revived their suspicions:
+it now began to be believed that these men were sent
+forward in order to apprise the enemy of their coming, and
+as captain Lewis was fearful of exciting any further uneasiness,
+he made no objection on seeing a small party of Indians
+go on each side of the valley under pretence of hunting,
+but in reality to watch the movements of our two men: even
+this precaution however did not quiet the alarms of the Indians,
+a considerable part of whom returned home, leaving
+only twenty-eight men and three women. After the hunters
+had been gone about an hour, captain Lewis again mounted
+with one of the Indians behind him, and the whole party
+set out; but just as they passed through the narrows they
+saw one of the spies coming back at full speed across the
+plain: the chief stopped and seemed uneasy, the whole band
+were moved with fresh suspicions, and captain Lewis himself
+was much disconcerted, lest by some unfortunate accident
+some of their enemies might have perhaps straggled
+that way. The young Indian had scarcely breath to say a
+few words as he came up, when the whole troop dashed
+forward as fast as their horses could carry them, and captain
+Lewis astonished at this movement was borne along for
+nearly a mile before he learnt with great satisfaction that
+it was all caused by the spy's having come to announce that
+one of the white men had killed a deer. Relieved from his
+anxiety he now found the jolting very uncomfortable; for
+the Indian behind him being afraid of not getting his share
+of the feast had lashed the horse at every step since they
+set off; he therefore reined him in and ordered the Indian
+to stop beating him. The fellow had no idea of losing time
+in disputing the point, and jumping off the horse ran for a
+mile at full speed. Captain Lewis slackened his pace, and
+followed at a sufficient distance to observe them. When
+they reached the place where Drewyer had thrown out the
+intestines, they all dismounted in confusion and ran tumbling
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_376" id="Pg_376" title="Pg_376">[376]</a></span>over each other like famished dogs: each tore away
+whatever part he could and instantly began to eat it; some
+had the liver, some the kidneys, in short no part on which
+we are accustomed to look with disgust escaped them: one
+of them who had seized about nine feet of the entrails was
+chewing at one end, while with his hand he was diligently
+clearing his way by discharging the contents at the other.
+It was indeed impossible to see these wretches ravenously
+feeding on the filth of animals, and the blood streaming
+from their mouths, without deploring how nearly the condition
+of savages approaches that of the brute creation: yet
+though suffering with hunger they did not attempt, as they
+might have done, to take by force the whole deer, but contented
+themselves with what had been thrown away by the
+hunter. Captain Lewis now had the deer skinned, and after
+reserving a quarter of it gave the rest of the animal to
+the chief to be divided among the Indians, who immediately
+devoured nearly the whole of it without cooking. They now
+went forward towards the creek where there was some
+brushwood to make a fire, and found Drewyer who had killed
+a second deer: the same struggle for the entrails was
+renewed here, and on giving nearly the whole deer to the
+Indians, they devoured it even to the soft part of the hoofs.
+A fire being made captain Lewis had his breakfast, during
+which Drewyer brought in a third deer: this too, after reserving
+one quarter, was given to the Indians, who now
+seemed completely satisfied and in good humour. At this
+place they remained about two hours to let the horses graze,
+and then continued their journey, and towards evening
+reached the lower part of the cove having on the way shot
+an antelope, the greater part of which was given to the Indians.
+As they were now approaching the place where they
+had been told by Captain Lewis they would see the white
+men, the chief insisted on halting: they therefore all dismounted,
+and Cameahwait with great ceremony and as if
+for ornament, put tippets or skins round the necks of our
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_377" id="Pg_377" title="Pg_377">[377]</a></span>party, similar to those worn by themselves. As this was
+obviously intended to disguise the white men, captain Lewis
+in order to inspire them with more confidence put his cocked
+hat and feather on the head of the chief, and as his own
+over-shirt was in the Indian form, and his skin browned by
+the sun, he could not have been distinguished from an Indian:
+the men followed his example, and the change seemed
+to be very <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'argeeable'.">agreeable</ins> to the Indians.</p>
+
+<p>In order to guard however against any disappointment
+captain Lewis again explained the possibility of our not
+having reached the forks in consequence of the difficulty
+of the navigation, so that if they should not find us at that
+spot they might be assured of our not being far below.
+They again all mounted their horses and rode on rapidly,
+making one of the Indians carry their flag, so that we might
+recognise them as they approached us; but to the mortification
+and disappointment of both parties on coming within
+two miles of the forks, no canoes were to be seen. Uneasy
+lest at this moment he should be abandoned, and all his
+hopes of obtaining aid from the Indians be destroyed, captain
+Lewis gave the chief his gun, telling him that if the enemies
+of his nation were in the bushes he might defend himself
+with it; that for his own part he was not afraid to die,
+and that the chief might shoot him as soon as they discovered
+themselves betrayed. The other three men at the
+same time gave their guns to the Indians, who now seemed
+more easy, but still wavered in their resolutions. As they
+went on towards the point, captain Lewis perceiving how
+critical his situation had become, resolved to attempt a
+stratagem which his present difficulty seemed completely
+to justify. Recollecting the notes he had left at the point
+for us, he sent Drewyer for them with an Indian who witnessed
+his taking them from the pole. When they were
+brought, captain Lewis told Cameahwait that on leaving
+his brother chief at the place where the river issues from
+the mountains, it was agreed that the boats should not be
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_378" id="Pg_378" title="Pg_378">[378]</a></span>brought higher than the next forks we should meet; but
+that if the rapid water prevented the boats from coming on
+as fast as they expected, his brother chief was to send a note
+to the first forks above him to let him know where the boats
+were; that this note had been left this morning at the forks,
+and mentioned that the canoes were just below the mountains,
+and coming slowly up in consequence of the current.
+Captain Lewis added, that he would stay at the forks for
+his brother chief, but would send a man down the river,
+and that if Cameahwait doubted what he said, one of their
+young men would go with him whilst he and the other two
+remained at the forks. This story satisfied the chief and
+the greater part of the Indians, but a few did not conceal
+their suspicion, observing that we told different stories,
+and complaining that the chief exposed them to danger by a
+mistaken confidence. Captain Lewis now wrote by the light
+of some willow brush a note to captain Clarke, which he
+gave to Drewyer, with an order to use all possible expedition
+in ascending the river, and engaged an Indian to accompany
+him by a promise of a knife and some beads. At
+bedtime the chief and five others slept round the fire of
+captain Lewis, and the rest hid themselves in different parts
+of the willow brush to avoid the enemy, who they feared
+would attack them in the night. Captain Lewis endeavoured
+to assume a cheerfulness he did not feel to prevent the
+despondency of the savages: after conversing gayly with
+them he retired to his musquitoe bier, by the side of which
+the chief now placed himself: he lay down, yet slept but little,
+being in fact scarcely less uneasy than his Indian companions.
+He was apprehensive that finding the ascent of
+the river impracticable, captain Clarke might have stopped
+below the Rattlesnake bluff, and the messenger would not
+meet him. The consequence of disappointing the Indians at
+this moment would most probably be, that they would retire
+and secrete themselves in the mountains, so as to prevent
+our having an opportunity of recovering their confidence:
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_379" id="Pg_379" title="Pg_379">[379]</a></span>they would also spread a panic through all the
+neighbouring Indians, and cut us off from the supply of
+horses so useful and almost so essential to our success: he
+was at the same time consoled by remembering that his
+hopes of assistance rested on better foundations than their
+generosity&mdash;their avarice, and their curiosity. He had promised
+liberal exchanges for their horses; but what was still
+move seductive, he had told them that one of their country-women
+who had been taken with the Minnetarees accompanied
+the party below; and one of the men had spread the
+report of our having with us a man perfectly black, whose
+hair was short and curled. This last account had excited
+a great degree of curiosity, and they seemed more desirous
+of seeing this monster than of obtaining the most favourable
+barter for their horses.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime we had set out after breakfast, and although
+we proceeded with more ease than we did yesterday,
+the river was still so rapid and shallow as to oblige us to
+drag the large canoes during the greater part of the day.
+For the first seven miles the river formed a bend to the
+right so as to make our advance only three miles in a straight
+line; the stream is crooked, narrow, small, and shallow, with
+highlands occasionally on the banks, and strewed with
+islands, four of which are opposite to each other. Near this
+place we left the valley, to which we gave the name of Serviceberry
+valley, from the abundance of that fruit now ripe
+which is found in it. In the course of the four following
+miles we passed several more islands and bayous on each
+side of the river, and reached a high cliff on the right. Two
+and a half miles beyond this the cliffs approach on both
+sides and form a very considerable rapid near the entrance
+of a bold running stream on the left. The water was now
+excessively cold, and the rapids had been frequent and
+troublesome. On ascending an eminence captain Clarke saw the
+forks of the river and sent the hunters up. They must
+have left it only a short time before captain Lewis's arrival,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_380" id="Pg_380" title="Pg_380">[380]</a></span>but fortunately had not seen the note which enabled him to
+induce the Indians to stay with him. From the top of this
+eminence he could discover only three trees through the
+whole country, nor was there along the sides of the cliffs
+they had passed in the course of the day, any timber except
+a few small pines: the low grounds were supplied with
+willow, currant bushes, and serviceberries. After advancing
+half a mile further we came to the lower point of
+an island near the middle of the river, and about the centre
+of the valley: here we halted for the night, only four miles
+by land, though ten by water, below the point where captain
+Lewis lay. Although we had made only fourteen miles, the
+labours of the men had fatigued and exhausted them very
+much: we therefore collected some small willow brush for
+a fire, and lay down to sleep.</p>
+
+
+<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p>
+
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_381" id="Pg_381" title="Pg_381">[381]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<!-- ROUTE MAP -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173"
+        alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Affecting interview between the wife of Chaboneau and the chief of the Shoshonees&mdash;Council
+held with that nation, and favourable result&mdash;The extreme
+navigable point of the Missouri mentioned&mdash;General character of the river
+and of the country through which it passes&mdash;Captain Clarke in exploring the
+source of the Columbia falls in company with another party of Shoshonees&mdash;The
+geographical information acquired from one of that party&mdash;Their manner
+of catching fish&mdash;The party reach Lewis river&mdash;The difficulties which
+captain Clarke had to encounter in his route&mdash;Friendship and hospitality of
+the Shoshonees&mdash;The party with captain Lewis employed in making saddles,
+and preparing for the journey.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>Saturday, August 17. Captain Lewis rose very early
+and despatched Drewyer and the Indian down the river in
+quest of the boats. Shields was sent out at the same time
+to hunt, while M&lsquo;Neal prepared a breakfast out of the remainder
+of the meat. Drewyer had been gone about two
+hours, and the Indians were all anxiously waiting for some
+news, when an Indian who had straggled a short distance
+down the river, returned with a report that he had seen the
+white men, who were only a short distance below, and were
+coming on. The Indians were all transported with joy, and
+the chief in the warmth of his satisfaction renewed his
+embrace to captain Lewis, who was quite as much delighted
+as the Indians themselves; the report proved most agreeably
+true. On setting out at seven o'clock, captain Clarke with
+Chaboneau and his wife walked on shore, but they had not
+gone more than a mile before captain Clarke saw Sacajawea,
+who was with her husband one hundred yards ahead, began to
+dance, and show every mark of the most extravagant joy, turning
+round him and pointing to several Indians, whom he now
+saw advancing on horseback, sucking her fingers at the same
+time to indicate that they were of her native tribe. As they
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_382" id="Pg_382" title="Pg_382">[382]</a></span>advanced captain Clarke discovered among them Drewyer
+dressed like an Indian, from whom he learnt the situation of
+the party. While the boats were performing the circuit, he
+went towards the forks with the Indians, who as they went
+along, sang aloud with the greatest appearance of delight.
+We soon drew near to the camp, and just as we approached it
+a woman made her way through the crowd towards Sacajawea,
+and recognising each other, they embraced with the
+most tender affection. The meeting of these two young women
+had in it something peculiarly touching, not only in the
+ardent manner in which their feelings were expressed, but
+from the real interest of their situation. They had been
+companions in childhood, in the war with the Minnetarees
+they had both been taken prisoners in the same battle, they
+had shared and softened the rigours of their captivity, till
+one of them had escaped from the Minnetarees, with scarce
+a hope of ever seeing her friend relieved from the hands of
+her enemies. While Sacajawea was renewing among the
+women the friendships of former days, captain Clarke went
+on, and was received by captain Lewis and the chief, who
+after the first embraces and salutations were over, conducted
+him to a sort of circular tent or shade of willows.
+Here he was seated on a white robe; and the chief immediately
+tied in his hair six small shells resembling pearls, an ornament
+highly valued by these people, who procured them in
+the course of trade from the seacoast. The moccasins of the
+whole party were then taken off, and after much ceremony
+the smoking began. After this the conference was to be opened,
+and glad of an opportunity of being able to converse more
+intelligibly, Sacajawea was sent for; she came into the tent,
+sat down, and was beginning to interpret, when in the person
+of Cameahwait she recognised her brother: she instantly
+jumped up, and ran and embraced him, throwing over him
+her blanket and weeping profusely; the chief was himself
+moved, though not in the same degree. After some conversation
+between them she resumed her seat, and attempted to interpret
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_383" id="Pg_383" title="Pg_383">[383]</a></span>for us, but her new situation seemed to overpower her,
+and she was frequently interrupted by her tears. After the
+council was finished, the unfortunate woman learnt that all
+her family were dead except two brothers, one of whom was
+absent, and a son of her eldest sister, a small boy, who was
+immediately adopted by her. The canoes arriving soon after,
+we formed a camp in a meadow on the left side, a little below
+the forks; took out our baggage, and by means of our sails
+and willow poles formed a canopy for our Indian visitors.
+About four o'clock the chiefs and warriors were collected,
+and after the customary ceremony of taking off the moccasins
+and smoking a pipe, we explained to them in a long harangue
+the purposes of our visit, making themselves one conspicuous
+object of the good wishes of our government, on whose
+strength as well as its friendly disposition we expatiated.
+We told them of their dependance on the will of our government
+for all future supplies of whatever was necessary either
+for their comfort or defence; that as we were sent to discover
+the best route by which merchandize could be conveyed
+to them, and no trade would be begun before our return,
+it was mutually advantageous that we should proceed with
+as little delay as possible; that we were under the necessity
+of requesting them to furnish us with horses to transport
+our baggage across the mountains, and a guide to show us
+the route, but that they should be amply remunerated for
+their horses, as well as for every other service they should
+render us. In the meantime our first wish was, that they
+should immediately collect as many horses as were necessary
+to transport our baggage to their village, where, at our
+leisure we would trade with them for as many horses as they
+could spare.</p>
+
+<p>The speech made a favourable impression: the chief in
+reply thanked us for our expressions of friendship towards
+himself and his nation, and declared their willingness to render
+us every service. He lamented that it would be so long
+before they should be supplied with firearms, but that till
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_384" id="Pg_384" title="Pg_384">[384]</a></span>then they could subsist as they had heretofore done. He
+concluded by saying that there were not horses here sufficient
+to transport our goods, but that he would return to the
+village to-morrow, and bring all his own horses, and encourage
+his people to come over with theirs. The conference
+being ended to our satisfaction, we now inquired of Cameahwait
+what chiefs were among the party, and he pointed
+out two of them. We then distributed our presents: to
+Cameahwait we gave a medal of the small size, with the
+likeness of president Jefferson, and on the reverse a figure of
+hands clasped with a pipe and tomahawk: to this was added
+an uniform coat, a shirt, a pair of scarlet leggings, a carrot
+of tobacco, and some small articles. Each of the other chiefs
+received a small medal struck during the presidency of general
+Washington, a shirt, handkerchief, leggings, a knife,
+and some tobacco. Medals of the same sort were also presented
+to two young warriors, who though not chiefs were
+promising youths and very much respected in the tribe.
+These honorary gifts were followed by presents of paint,
+moccasins, awls, knives, beads and looking-glasses. We
+also gave them all a plentiful meal of Indian corn, of which
+the hull is taken off by being boiled in lye; and as this was
+the first they had ever tasted, they were very much pleased
+with it. They had indeed abundant sources of surprise in all
+they saw: the appearance of the men, their arms, their clothing,
+the canoes, the strange looks of the negro, and the sagacity
+of our dog, all in turn shared their admiration, which
+was raised to astonishment by a shot from the airgun: this operation
+was instantly considered as a <i>great medicine</i>, by which
+they as well as the other Indians mean something emanating
+directly from the Great Spirit, or produced by his invisible
+and incomprehensible agency. The display of all these riches
+had been intermixed with inquiries into the geographical
+situation of their country; for we had learnt by experience,
+that to keep the savages in good temper their attention
+should not be wearied with too much business; but that the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_385" id="Pg_385" title="Pg_385">[385]</a></span>serious affairs should be enlivened by a mixture of what is
+new and entertaining. Our hunters brought in very seasonably
+four deer and an antelope, the last of which we gave
+to the Indians, who in a very short time devoured it. After
+the council was over, we consulted as to our future operations.
+The game does not promise to last here for a number
+of days, and this circumstance combined with many others
+to induce our going on as soon as possible. Our Indian information
+as to the state of the Columbia is of a very alarming
+kind, and our first object is of course to ascertain the
+practicability of descending it, of which the Indians discourage
+our expectations. It was therefore agreed that captain
+Clarke should set off in the morning with eleven men,
+furnished, besides their arms, with tools for making canoes;
+that he should take Chaboneau and his wife to the camp of
+the Shoshonees, where he was to leave them, in order to hasten
+the collection of horses; that he was then to lead his
+men down to the Columbia, and if he found it navigable, and
+the timber in sufficient quantity, begin to build canoes. As
+soon as he had decided as to the propriety of proceeding down
+the Columbia or across the mountains, he was to send back
+one of the men with information of it to captain Lewis, who
+by that time would have brought up the whole party, and the
+rest of the baggage as far as the Shoshonee village.</p>
+
+<p>Preparations were accordingly made this evening for
+such an arrangement. The sun is excessively hot in the
+day time, but the nights very cold, and rendered still more
+unpleasant from the want of any fuel except willow brush.
+The appearances too of game, for many days' subsistence,
+are not very favourable.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 18. In order to relieve the men of captain
+Clarke's party from the heavy weight of their arms provisions
+and tools, we exposed a few articles to barter for
+horses, and soon obtained three very good ones, in exchange
+for which we gave a uniform coat, a pair of leggings, a
+few handkerchiefs, three knifes and some other small articles,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_386" id="Pg_386" title="Pg_386">[386]</a></span>the whole of which did not in the United States cost
+more than twenty dollars: a fourth was purchased by the
+men for an old checkered shirt, a pair of old leggings and a
+knife. The Indians seemed to be quite as well pleased as
+ourselves at the bargains they had made. We now found
+that the two inferior chiefs were somewhat displeased at
+not having received a present equal to that given to the
+great chief, who appeared in a dress so much finer than
+their own. To allay their discontent, we bestowed on them
+two old coats, and promised them that if they were active
+in assisting us across the mountains they should have an
+additional present. This treatment completely reconciled
+them, and the whole Indian party, except two men and
+two women, set out in perfect good humour to return home
+with captain Clarke. After going fifteen miles through a
+wide level valley with no wood but willows and shrubs, he
+encamped in the Shoshonee cove near a narrow pass where
+the highlands approach within two hundred yards of each
+other, and the river is only ten yards wide. The Indians
+went on further, except the three chiefs and two young
+men, who assisted in eating two deer brought in by the hunters.
+After their departure every thing was prepared for
+the transportation of the baggage, which was now exposed
+to the air and dried. Our game was one deer and a beaver,
+and we saw an abundance of trout in the river for which we
+fixed a net in the evening.</p>
+
+<p>We have now reached the extreme navigable point of
+the Missouri, which our observation places in latitude 43&deg;
+30' 43" north. It is difficult to comprise in any general description
+the characteristics of a river so extensive, and fed
+by so many streams which have their sources in a great variety
+of soils and climates. But the Missouri is still sufficiently
+powerful to give to all its waters something of a
+common character, which is of course decided by the nature
+of the country through which it passes. The bed of the
+river is chiefly composed of a blue mud from which the water
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_387" id="Pg_387" title="Pg_387">[387]</a></span>itself derives a deep tinge. From its junction here to
+the place near which it leaves the mountains, its course is
+embarrassed by rapids and rocks which the hills on each
+side have thrown into its channel. From that place, its current,
+with the exception of the falls, is not difficult of navigation,
+nor is there much variation in its appearance till the
+mouth of the Platte. That powerful river throws out vast
+quantities of coarse sand which contribute to give a new
+face to the Missouri, which is now much more impeded by
+islands. The sand, as it is drifted down, adheres in time
+to some of the projecting points from the shore, and forms
+a barrier to the mud, which at length fills to the same
+height with the sandbar itself; as soon as it has acquired a
+consistency, the willow grows there the first year, and by
+its roots assists the solidity of the whole: as the mud and
+sand accumulate the cottonwood tree next appears; till
+the gradual excretion of soils raises the surface of the
+point above the highest freshets. Thus stopped in its
+course the water seeks a passage elsewhere, and as the soil
+on each side is light and yielding, what was only a peninsula,
+becomes gradually an island, and the river indemnifies
+itself for the usurpation by encroaching on the adjacent
+shore. In this way the Missouri like the Mississippi
+is constantly cutting off the projections of the shore, and
+leaving its ancient channel, which is then marked by the
+mud it has deposited and a few stagnant ponds.</p>
+
+<p>The general appearance of the country as it presents itself
+on ascending may be thus described: From its mouth to
+the two Charletons, a ridge of highlands borders the river
+at a small distance, leaving between them fine rich meadows.
+From the mouth of the two Charletons the hills recede
+from the river, giving greater extent to the low grounds, but
+they again approach the river for a short distance near
+Grand river, and again at Snake creek. From that point
+they retire, nor do they come again to the neighbourhood
+of the river till above the Sauk prairie, where they are comparatively
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_388" id="Pg_388" title="Pg_388">[388]</a></span>low and small. Thence they diverge and reappear
+at the Charaton Searty, after which they are scarcely
+if at all discernible, till they advance to the Missouri nearly
+opposite to the Kanzas.</p>
+
+<p>The same ridge of hills extends on the south side, in almost
+one unbroken chain, from the mouth of the Missouri
+to the Kanzas, though decreasing in height beyond the
+Osage. As they are nearer the river than the hills on the
+opposite sides, the intermediate low grounds are of course
+narrower, but the general character of the soil is common
+to both sides.</p>
+
+<p>In the meadows and along the shore, the tree most common
+is the cottonwood, which with the willow forms almost
+the exclusive growth of the Missouri. The hills or rather
+high grounds, for they do not rise higher than from one
+hundred and fifty to two hundred feet, are composed of a
+good rich black soil, which is perfectly susceptible of cultivation,
+though it becomes richer on the hills beyond the
+Platte, and are in general thinly covered with timber. Beyond
+these hills the country extends into high open plains,
+which are on both sides sufficiently fertile, but the south
+has the advantage of better streams of water, and may
+therefore be considered as preferable for settlements. The
+lands, however, become much better and the timber more
+abundant between the Osage and the Kanzas. From the
+Kanzas to the Nadawa the hills continue at nearly an equal
+distance, varying from four to eight miles from each other,
+except that from the little Platte to nearly opposite the ancient
+Kanzas village, the hills are more remote, and the
+meadows of course wider on the north side of the river.
+From the Nadawa the northern hills disappear, except at
+occasional intervals, where they are seen at a distance, till
+they return about twenty-seven miles above the Platte near
+the ancient village of the Ayoways. On the south the hills
+continue close to the river from the ancient village of the
+Kanzas up to Council bluff, fifty miles beyond the Platte;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_389" id="Pg_389" title="Pg_389">[389]</a></span>forming high prairie lands. On both sides the lands are good,
+and perhaps this distance from the Osage to the Platte may
+be recommended as among the best districts on the Missouri
+for the purposes of settlers.</p>
+
+<p>From the Ayoway village the northern hills again retire
+from the river, to which they do not return till three hundred
+and twenty miles above, at Floyd's river. The hills
+on the south also leave the river at Council bluffs, and reappear
+at the Mahar village, two hundred miles up the Missouri.
+The country thus abandoned by the hills is more
+open and the timber in smaller quantities than below the
+Platte, so that although the plain is rich and covered with
+high grass, the want of wood renders it less calculated for
+cultivation than below that river.</p>
+
+<p>The northern hills after remaining near the Missouri for
+a few miles at Floyd's river, recede from it at the Sioux
+river, the course of which they follow; and though they
+again visit the Missouri at Whitestone river, where they
+are low, yet they do not return to it till beyond James river.
+The highlands on the south, after continuing near the river
+at the Mahar villages, again disappear, and do not approach
+it till the Cobalt bluffs, about forty-four miles from the villages,
+and then from those bluffs to the Yellowstone river,
+a distance of about one thousand miles, they follow the
+banks of the river with scarcely any deviation.</p>
+
+<p>From the James river, the lower grounds are confined
+within a narrow space by the hills on both sides, which now
+continue near each other up to the mountains. The space
+between them however varies from one to three miles as
+high as the Muscleshell river, from which the hills approach
+so high as to leave scarcely any low grounds on the river,
+and near the falls reach the waters edge. Beyond the falls
+the hills are scattered and low to the first range of mountains.</p>
+
+<p>The soil during the whole length of the Missouri below
+the Platte is generally speaking very fine, and although the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_390" id="Pg_390" title="Pg_390">[390]</a></span>timber is scarce, there is still sufficient for the purposes of
+settlers; But beyond that river, although the soil is still
+rich, yet the almost total absence of timber, and particularly
+the want of good water, of which there is but a small
+quantity in the creeks, and even that brackish, oppose powerful
+obstacles to its settlement. The difficulty becomes still
+greater between the Muscleshell river and the falls, where
+besides the greater scarcity of timber, the country itself
+is less fertile.</p>
+
+<p>The elevation of these highlands varies as they pass
+through this extensive tract of country. From Wood river
+they are about one hundred and fifty feet above the water,
+and continue at that height till they rise near the Osage,
+from which place to the ancient fortification they again diminish
+in size. Thence they continue higher till the Mandan
+village, after which they are rather lower till the neighbourhood
+of Muscleshell river, where they are met by the
+Northern hills, which have advanced at a more uniform
+height, varying from one hundred and fifty to two hundred
+or three hundred feet. From this place to the mountains
+the height of both is nearly the same, from three hundred
+to five hundred feet, and the low grounds so narrow that the
+traveller seems passing through a range of high country.
+From Maria's river to the falls, the hills descend to the
+height of about two or three hundred feet.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 19. The morning was cold, and the grass perfectly
+whitened by the frost. We were engaged in preparing
+packs and saddles to load the horses as soon as they
+should arrive. A beaver was caught in a trap, but we were
+disappointed in trying to catch trout in our net; we therefore
+made a seine of willow brush, and by hauling it procured
+a number of fine trout, and a species of mullet which
+we had not seen before: it is about sixteen inches long, the
+scales small; the nose long, obtusely pointed, and exceeding
+the under jaw; the mouth opens with folds at the sides; it
+has no teeth, and the tongue and palate is smooth. The
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_391" id="Pg_391" title="Pg_391">[391]</a></span>colour of its back and sides is a bluish brown, while the
+belly is white: it has the faggot bones, whence we concluded
+it to be of the mullet species. It is by no means so well flavoured
+a fish as the trout, which are the same as those we
+first saw at the falls, larger than the speckled trout of the
+mountains in the Atlantic states, and equally well flavoured.
+In the evening the hunters returned with two deer.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Clarke, in the meantime, proceeded through a
+wide level valley, in which the chief pointed out a spot where
+many of his tribe were killed in battle a year ago. The Indians
+accompanied him during the day, and as they had nothing
+to eat, he was obliged to feed them from his own stores,
+the hunters not being able to kill any thing. Just as he was
+entering the mountains, he met an Indian with two mules and
+a Spanish saddle, who was so polite as to offer one of them
+to him to ride over the hills. Being on foot, captain Clarke
+accepted his offer and gave him a waistcoat as a reward for
+his civility. He encamped for the night on a small stream,
+and the next morning,</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday, August 20, he set out at six o'clock. In passing
+through a continuation of the hilly broken country, he
+met several parties of Indians. On coming near the camp,
+which had been removed since we left them two miles higher
+up the river, Cameahwait requested that the party should
+halt. This was complied with: a number of Indians came out
+from the camp, and with great ceremony several pipes were
+smoked. This being over captain Clarke was conducted to
+a large leathern lodge prepared for his party in the middle
+of the encampment, the Indians having only shelters of willow
+bushes. A few dried berries, and one salmon, the only
+food the whole village could contribute, were then presented
+to him; after which he proceeded to repeat in council,
+what had been already told them, the purposes of his visit;
+urged them to take their horses over and assist in transporting
+our baggage, and expressed a wish to obtain a guide to
+examine the river. This was explained and enforced to the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_392" id="Pg_392" title="Pg_392">[392]</a></span>whole village by Cameahwait, and an old man was pointed out
+who was said to know more of their geography to the north
+than any other person, and whom captain Clarke engaged to
+accompany him. After explaining his views he distributed a
+few presents, the council was ended, and nearly half the village
+set out to hunt the antelope, but returned without success.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Clarke in the meantime made particular inquiries
+as to the situation of the country, and the possibility
+of soon reaching a navigable water. The chief began by
+drawing on the ground a delineation of the rivers, from
+which it appeared that his information was very limited.
+The river on which the camp is he divided into two branches
+just above us, which, as he indicated by the opening of
+the mountains, were in view: he next made it discharge itself
+into a larger river ten miles below, coming from the
+southwest: the joint stream continued one day's march to
+the northwest, and then inclined to the westward for two
+day's march farther. At that place he placed several heaps
+of sand on each side, which, as he explained them, represented,
+vast mountains of rock always covered with snow, in
+passing through which the river was so completely hemmed
+in by the high rocks, that there was no possibility of travelling
+along the shore; that the bed of the river was obstructed
+by sharp-pointed rocks, and such its rapidity, that as far as
+the eye could reach it presented a perfect column of foam.
+The mountains he said were equally inaccessible, as neither
+man nor horse could cross them; that such being the state
+of the country neither he nor any of his nation had ever attempted
+to go beyond the mountains. Cameahwait said also
+that he had been informed by the Chopunnish, or pierced-nose
+Indians, who reside on this river west of the mountains,
+that it ran a great way towards the setting sun, and
+at length lost itself in a great lake of water which was ill-tasted,
+and where the white men lived. An Indian belonging
+to a band of Shoshonees who live to the southwest, and
+who happened to be at camp, was then brought in, and inquiries
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_393" id="Pg_393" title="Pg_393">[393]</a></span>made of him as to the situation of the country in
+that direction: this he described in terms scarcely less terrible
+than those in which Cameahwait had represented the
+west. He said that his relations lived at the distance of
+twenty days' march from this place, on a course a little to
+the west of south and not far from the whites, with whom
+they traded for horses, mules, cloth, metal, beads, and the
+shells here worn as ornaments, and which are those of a
+species of pearl oyster. In order to reach his country we
+should be obliged during the first seven days to climb over
+steep rocky mountains where there was no game, and we
+should find nothing but roots for subsistence. Even for these
+however we should be obliged to contend with a fierce warlike
+people, whom he called the Broken-moccasin, or moccasin
+with holes, who lived like bears in holes, and fed on
+roots and the flesh of such horses as they could steal or
+plunder from those who passed through the mountains. So
+rough indeed was the passage, that the feet of the horses
+would be wounded in such a manner that many of them would
+be unable to proceed. The next part of the route was for
+ten days through a dry parched desert of sand, inhabited by
+no animal which would supply us with subsistence, and as
+the sun had now scorched up the grass and dried up the
+small pools of water which are sometimes scattered through
+this desert in the spring, both ourselves and our horses
+would perish for want of food and water. About the middle
+of this plain a large river passes from southeast to northwest,
+which, though navigable, afforded neither timber nor
+salmon. Three or four days' march beyond this plain his
+relations lived, in a country tolerably fertile and partially
+covered with timber, on another large river running in the
+same direction as the former; that this last discharges itself
+into a third large river, on which resided many numerous
+nations, with whom his own were at war, but whether this
+last emptied itself into the great or stinking lake, as they
+called the ocean, he did not know: that from his country to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_394" id="Pg_394" title="Pg_394">[394]</a></span>the stinking lake was a great distance, and that the route to
+it, taken by such of his relations as had visited it, was up
+the river on which they lived, and over to that on which
+the white people lived, and which they knew discharged itself
+into the ocean. This route he advised us to take, but
+added, that we had better defer the journey till spring, when
+he would himself conduct us. This account persuaded us
+that the streams of which he spoke were southern branches
+of the Columbia, heading with the Rio des Apostolos, and
+Rio Colorado, and that the route which he mentioned was
+to the gulf of California: captain Clarke therefore told him
+that this road was too much towards the south for our purpose,
+and then requested to know if there was no route on the
+left of the river where we now are, by which we might intercept
+it below the mountains; but he knew of none except
+that through the barren plains, which he said joined the
+mountains on that side, and through which it was impossible
+to pass at this season, even if we were fortunate enough to
+escape the Broken-moccasin Indians. Captain Clarke recompensed
+the Indian by a present of a knife, with which
+he seemed much gratified, and now inquired of Cameahwait
+by what route the Pierced-nose Indians, who he said lived
+west of the mountains, crossed over to the Missouri: this he
+said was towards the north, but that the road was a very
+bad one; that during the passage he had been told they suffered
+excessively from hunger, being obliged to subsist for
+many days on berries alone, there being no game in that
+part of the mountains, which were broken and rocky, and
+so thickly covered with timber that they could scarcely pass.
+Surrounded by difficulties as all the other routes are, this
+seems to be the most practicable of all the passages by land,
+since, if the Indians can pass the mountains with their women
+and children, no difficulties which they could encounter
+could be formidable to us; and if the Indians below the
+mountains are so numerous as they are represented to be,
+they must have some means of subsistence equally within
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_395" id="Pg_395" title="Pg_395">[395]</a></span>our power. They tell us indeed that the nations to the westward
+subsist principally on fish and roots, and that their
+only game were a few elk, deer, and antelope, there being
+no buffaloe west of the mountain. The first inquiry however
+was to ascertain the truth of their information relative
+to the difficulty of descending the river: for this purpose
+captain Clarke set out at three o'clock in the afternoon, accompanied
+by the guide and all his men, except one whom
+he left with orders to purchase a horse and join him as soon
+as possible. At the distance of four miles he crossed the
+river, and eight miles from the camp halted for the night
+at a small stream. The road which he followed was a beaten
+path through a wide rich meadow, in which were several
+old lodges. On the route he met a number of men, women,
+and children, as well as horses, and one of the men who appeared
+to possess some consideration turned back with him,
+and observing a woman with three salmon obtained them
+from her, and presented them to the party. Captain Clarke
+shot a mountain cock or cock of the plains, a dark brown bird
+larger than the dunghill fowl, with a long and pointed tail,
+and a fleshy protuberance about the base of the upper chop,
+something like that of the turkey, though without the snout.
+In the morning,</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 21, he resumed his march early, and at the
+distance of five miles reached an Indian lodge of brush, inhabited
+by seven families of Shoshonees. They behaved
+with great civility, gave the whole party as much boiled
+salmon as they could eat, and added as a present several dried
+salmon and a considerable quantity of chokecherries. After
+smoking with them all he visited the fish weir, which
+was about two hundred yards distant; the river was here divided
+by three small islands, which occasioned the water to
+pass along four channels. Of these three were narrow, and
+stopped by means of trees which were stretched across, and
+supported by willow stakes, sufficiently near each other to
+prevent the passage of the fish. About the centre of each was
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_396" id="Pg_396" title="Pg_396">[396]</a></span>placed a basket formed of willows, eighteen or twenty feet
+in length, of a cylindrical form, and terminating in a conic
+shape at its lower extremity; this was situated with its
+mouth upwards, opposite to an aperture in the weir. The
+main channel of the water was then conducted to this weir,
+and as the fish entered it they were so entangled with each
+other that they could not move, and were taken out by untying
+the small end of the willow basket. The weir in the
+main channel was formed in a manner somewhat different;
+there were in fact two distinct weirs formed of poles and
+willow sticks quite across the river, approaching each other
+obliquely with an aperture in each side near the angle. This
+is made by tying a number of poles together at the top, in
+parcels of three, which were then set up in a triangular form
+at the base, two of the poles being in the range desired for
+the weir, and the third down the stream. To these poles
+two ranges of other poles are next lashed horizontally, with
+willow bark and wythes, and willow sticks joined in with
+these crosswise, so as to form a kind of wicker-work from
+the bottom of the river to the height of three or four feet
+above the surface of the water. This is so thick as to prevent
+the fish from passing, and even in some parts with the
+help of a little gravel and some stone enables them to give
+any direction which they wish to the water. These two weirs
+being placed near to each other, one for the purpose of catching
+the fish as they ascend, the other as they go down the
+river, is provided with two baskets made in the form already
+described, and which are placed at the apertures of the weir.
+After examining these curious objects, he returned to the
+lodges, and soon passed the river to the left, where an Indian
+brought him a tomahawk which he said he had found in the
+grass, near the lodge where captain Lewis had staid on his
+first visit to the village. This was a tomahawk which had
+been missed at the time, and supposed to be stolen; it was
+however the only article which had been lost in our intercourse
+with the nation, and as even that was returned the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_397" id="Pg_397" title="Pg_397">[397]</a></span>inference is highly honourable to the integrity of the Shoshonees.
+On leaving the lodges captain Clarke crossed to
+the left side of the river, and despatched five men to the forks
+of it, in search of the man left behind yesterday, who procured
+a horse and passed by another road as they learnt, to
+the forks. At the distance of fourteen miles they killed a
+very large salmon, two and a half feet long, in a creek six
+miles below the forks: and after travelling about twenty
+miles through the valley, following the course of the river,
+which runs nearly northwest, halted in a small meadow on
+the right side, under a cliff of rocks. Here they were joined
+by the five men who had gone in quest of Crusatte. They
+had been to the forks of the river, where the natives resort
+in great numbers for the purpose of gigging fish, of which
+they made our men a present of five fresh salmon. In addition
+to this food, one deer was killed to-day. The western
+branch of this river is much larger than the eastern, and after
+we passed the junction we found the river about one hundred
+yards in width, rapid and shoaly, but containing only a
+small quantity of timber. As captain Lewis was the first
+white man who visited its waters, captain Clarke gave it the
+name of Lewis's river. The low grounds through which he
+had passed to-day were rich and wide, but at his camp this
+evening the hills begin to assume a formidable aspect. The
+cliff under which he lay is of a reddish brown colour, the rocks
+which have fallen from it are a dark brown flintstone. Near the
+place are gullies of white sandstone, and quantities of a fine
+sand, of a snowy whiteness: the mountains on each side are
+high and rugged, with some pine trees scattered over them.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 22. He soon began to perceive that the Indian
+accounts had not exaggerated: at the distance of a mile he
+passed a small creek, and the points of four mountains, which
+were rocky, and so high that it seemed almost impossible to
+cross them with horses. The road lay over the sharp fragments
+of rocks which had fallen from the mountains, and
+were strewed in heaps for miles together, yet the horses altogether
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_398" id="Pg_398" title="Pg_398">[398]</a></span>unshod, travelled across them as fast as the men,
+and without detaining them a moment. They passed two
+bold-running streams, and reached the entrance of a small
+river, where a few Indian families resided. They had not been
+previously acquainted with the arrival of the whites, the
+guide was behind, and the wood so thick that we came upon
+them unobserved, till at a very short distance. As soon as
+they saw us, the women and children fled in great consternation;
+the men offered us every thing they had, the fish on
+the scaffolds, the dried berries and the collars of elk's tushes
+worn by the children. We took only a small quantity of
+the food, and gave them in return some small articles which
+conduced very much to pacify them. The guide now coming
+up, explained to them who we were, and the object of our
+visit, which seemed to relieve the fears, but still a number
+of the women and children did not recover from their
+fright, but cryed during our stay, which lasted about an
+hour. The guide, whom we found a very intelligent friendly
+old man, informed us that up this river there was a road
+which led over the mountains to the Missouri. On resuming
+his route, he went along the steep side of a mountain about
+three miles, and then reached the river near a small island,
+at the lower part of which he encamped; he here attempted
+to gig some fish, but could only obtain one small salmon. The
+river is here shoal and rapid, with many rocks scattered in
+various directions through its bed. On the sides of the
+mountains are some scattered pines, and of those on the left
+the tops are covered with them; there are however but few
+in the low grounds through which they passed, indeed they
+have seen only a single tree fit to make a canoe, and even
+that was small. The country has an abundant growth of berries,
+and we met several women and children gathering them
+who bestowed them upon us with great liberality. Among
+the woods captain Clarke observed a species of woodpecker,
+the beak and tail of which were white, the wings black, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_399" id="Pg_399" title="Pg_399">[399]</a></span>every other part of the body of a dark brown; its size was
+that of the robin, and it fed on the seeds of the pine.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 23. Captain Clarke set off very early, but as his
+route lay along the steep side of a mountain, over irregular
+and broken masses of rocks, which wounded the horses'
+feet, he was obliged to proceed slowly. At the distance of
+four miles he reached the river, but the rocks here became
+so steep, and projected so far into the river, that there was
+no mode of passing, except through the water. This he
+did for some distance, though the river was very rapid, and
+so deep that they were forced to swim their horses. After
+following the edge of the water for about a mile under this
+steep cliff, he reached a small meadow, below which the
+whole current of the river beat against the right shore on
+which he was, and which was formed of a solid rock perfectly
+inaccessible to horses. Here too, the little track
+which he had been pursuing terminated. He therefore resolved
+to leave the horses and the greater part of the men
+at this place, and examine the river still further, in order
+to determine if there were any possibility of descending it
+in canoes. Having killed nothing except a single goose to-day,
+and the whole of our provision being consumed last
+evening, it was by no means advisable to remain any length
+of time where they were. He now directed the men to fish
+and hunt at this place till his return, and then with his guide
+and three men he proceeded, clambering over immense
+rocks, and along the side of lofty precipices which bordered
+the river, when at about twelve miles distance he reached
+a small meadow, the first he had seen on the river since he
+left his party. A little below this meadow, a large creek
+twelve yards wide, and of some depth, discharges itself from
+the north. Here were some recent signs of an Indian encampment,
+and the tracks of a number of horses, who must
+have come along a plain Indian path, which he now saw
+following the course of the creek. This stream his guide
+said led towards a large river running to the north, and was
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_400" id="Pg_400" title="Pg_400">[400]</a></span>frequented by another nation for the purpose of catching
+fish. He remained here two hours, and having taken
+some small fish, made a dinner on them with the addition
+of a few berries. From the place where he had
+left the party, to the mouth of this creek, it presents
+one continued rapid, in which are five shoals, neither of
+which could be passed with loaded canoes; and the baggage
+must therefore be transported for a considerable distance
+over the steep mountains, where it would be impossible to
+employ horses for the relief of the men. Even the empty
+canoes must be let down the rapids by means of cords, and
+not even in that way without great risk both to the canoes
+as well as to the men. At one of these shoals, indeed the
+rocks rise so perpendicularly from the water as to leave no
+hope of a passage or even a portage without great labour
+in removing rocks, and in some instances cutting away the
+earth. To surmount these difficulties would exhaust the
+strength of the party, and what is equally discouraging
+would waste our time and consume our provisions, of neither
+of which have we much to spare. The season is now
+far advanced, and the Indians tell us we shall shortly have
+snow: the salmon too have so far declined that the natives
+themselves are hastening from the country, and not an animal
+of any kind larger than a pheasant or a squirrel, and
+of even these a few only will then be seen in this part of
+the mountains: after which we shall be obliged to rely on
+our own stock of provisions, which will not support us more
+than ten days. These circumstances combine to render a
+passage by water impracticable in our present situation.
+To descend the course of the river on horseback is the
+other alternative, and scarcely a more inviting one. The
+river is so deep that there are only a few places where it
+can be forded, and the rocks approach so near the water as
+to render it impossible to make a route along the waters'
+edge. In crossing the mountains themselves we should
+have to encounter, besides their steepness, one barren surface
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_401" id="Pg_401" title="Pg_401">[401]</a></span>of broken masses of rock, down which in certain seasons
+the torrents sweep vast quantities of stone into the
+river. These rocks are of a whitish brown, and towards
+the base of a gray colour, and so hard, that on striking
+them with steel, they yield a fire like flint. This sombre
+appearance is in some places scarcely relieved by a single
+tree, though near the river and on the creeks there is more
+timber, among which are some tall pine: several of these
+might be made into canoes, and by lashing two of them together,
+one of tolerable size might be formed.</p>
+
+<p>After dinner he continued his route, and at the distance
+of half a mile passed another creek about five yards
+wide. Here his guide informed him that by ascending the
+creek for some distance he would have a better road, and
+cut off a considerable bend of the river towards the south.
+He therefore pursued a well-beaten Indian track up this
+creek for about six miles, when leaving the creek to the
+right he passed over a ridge, and after walking a mile again
+met the river, where it flows through a meadow of about
+eighty acres in extent. This they passed and then ascended
+a high and steep point of a mountain, from which the
+guide now pointed out where the river broke through the
+mountains about twenty miles distant. Near the base of the
+mountains a small river falls in from the south: this view
+was terminated by one of the loftiest mountains captain
+Clarke had ever seen, which was perfectly covered with
+snow. Towards this formidable barrier the river went directly
+on, and there it was, as the guide observed, that the
+difficulties and dangers of which he and Cameahwait had
+spoken commenced. After reaching the mountain, he said,
+the river continues its course towards the north for many
+miles, between high perpendicular rocks, which were scattered
+through its bed: it then penetrated the mountain
+through a narrow gap, on each side of which arose perpendicularly
+a rock as high as the top of the mountain before
+them; that the river then made a bend which concealed its
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_402" id="Pg_402" title="Pg_402">[402]</a></span>future course from view, and as it was alike impossible to
+descend the river or clamber over that vast mountain, eternally
+covered with snow, neither he nor any of his nation
+had ever been lower than at a place where they could see
+the gap made by the river on entering the mountain. To
+that place he said he would conduct captain Clarke if he
+desired it by the next evening. But he was in need of no
+further evidence to convince him of the utter impracticability
+of the route before him. He had already witnessed
+the difficulties of part of the road, yet after all these dangers
+his guide, whose intelligence and fidelity he could not
+doubt, now assured him that the difficulties were only commencing,
+and what he saw before him too clearly convinced
+him of the Indian's veracity. He therefore determined to
+abandon this route, and returned to the upper part of the
+last creek we had passed, and reaching it an hour after
+dark encamped for the night: on this creek he had seen in
+the morning an Indian road coming in from the north. Disappointed
+in finding a route by water, captain Clarke now
+questioned his guide more particularly as to the direction
+of this road which he seemed to understand perfectly. He
+drew a map on the sand, and represented this road as well
+as that we passed yesterday on Berry creek as both leading towards
+two forks of the same great river, where resided a nation
+called Tushepaws, who having no salmon on their river,
+came by these roads to the fish weirs on Lewis's river. He
+had himself been among these Tushepaws, and having once
+accompanied them on a fishing party to another river he
+had there seen Indians who had come across the rocky
+mountains. After a great deal of conversation, or rather
+signs, and a second and more particular map from his guide,
+captain Clarke felt persuaded that his guide knew of a road
+from the Shoshonee village they had left, to the great river
+to the north, without coming so low down as this on a route
+impracticable for horses. He was desirous of hastening
+his return, and therefore set out early,</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_403" id="Pg_403" title="Pg_403">[403]</a></span>Saturday 24, and after descending the creek to the river,
+stopped to breakfast on berries in the meadow above the
+second creek. He then went on, but unfortunately fell from
+a rock and injured his leg very much; he however walked on
+as rapidly as he could, and at four in the afternoon rejoined
+his men. During his absence they had killed one of the
+mountain cocks, a few pheasants, and some small fish, on
+which with haws and serviceberries they had subsisted.
+Captain Clarke immediately sent forward a man on horseback
+with a note to captain Lewis, apprising him of the result
+of his inquiries, and late in the afternoon set out with
+the rest of the party and encamped at the distance of two
+miles. The men were much disheartened at the bad prospect
+of escaping from the mountains, and having nothing to
+eat but a few berries which have made several of them sick,
+they all passed a disagreeable night, which was rendered
+more uncomfortable by a heavy dew.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 25. The want of provisions urged captain Clarke
+to return as soon as possible; he therefore set out early, and
+halted an hour in passing the Indian camp near the fish weirs.
+These people treated them with great kindness, and though
+poor and dirty they willingly give what little they possess;
+they gave the whole party boiled salmon and dried berries,
+which were not however in sufficient quantities to appease
+their hunger. They soon resumed their old road, but as the
+abstinence or strange diet had given one of the men a very severe
+illness, they were detained very much on his account,
+and it was not till late in the day they reached the cliff under
+which they had encamped on the twenty-first. They immediately
+began to fish and hunt, in order to procure a meal.
+We caught several small fish, and by means of our guide, obtained
+two salmon from a small party of women and children,
+who, with one man, were going below to gather berries.
+This supplied us with about half a meal, but after dark we
+were regaled with a beaver which one of the hunters brought
+in. The other game seen in the course of the day were one
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_404" id="Pg_404" title="Pg_404">[404]</a></span>deer, and a party of elk among the pines on the sides of
+the mountains.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 26. The morning was fine, and three men were
+despatched ahead to hunt, while the rest were detained until
+nine o'clock, in order to retake some horses which had
+strayed away during the night. They then proceeded along
+the route by the forks of the river, till they reached the lower
+Indian camp where they first were when we met them.
+The whole camp immediately flocked around him with great
+appearance of cordiality, but all the spare food of the village
+did not amount to more than two salmon, which they
+gave to captain Clarke, who distributed them among his
+men. The hunters had not been able to kill any thing, nor
+had captain Clarke or the greater part of the men any food
+during the twenty-four hours, till towards evening one of
+them shot a salmon in the river, and a few small fish were
+caught, which furnished them with a scanty meal. The
+only animals they had seen were a few pigeons, some very
+wild hares, a great number of the large black grasshopper,
+and a quantify of ground lizards.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 27. The men, who were engaged last night in
+mending their moccasins, all except one, went out hunting,
+but no game was to be procured. One of the men however
+killed a small salmon, and the Indians made a present of
+another, on which the whole party made a very slight breakfast.
+These Indians, to whom this life is familiar, seem
+contented, although they depend for subsistence on the scanty
+productions of the fishery. But our men who are used to
+hardships, but have been accustomed to have the first wants
+of nature regularly supplied, feel very sensibly their wretched
+situation; their strength is wasting away; they begin to
+express their apprehensions of being without food in a country
+perfectly destitute of any means of supporting life, except
+a few fish. In the course of the day an Indian brought
+into the camp five salmon, two of which captain Clarke
+bought, and made a supper for the party.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_405" id="Pg_405" title="Pg_405">[405]</a></span>Wednesday 28. There was a frost again this morning. The
+Indians gave the party two salmon out of several which they
+caught in their traps, and having purchased two more, the
+party was enabled to subsist on them during the day. A camp
+of about forty Indians from the west fork passed us to-day,
+on their route to the eastward. Our prospect of provisions
+is getting worse every day: the hunters who had ranged
+through the country in every direction where game might be
+reasonably expected, have seen nothing. The fishery is
+scarcely more productive, for an Indian who was out all
+day with his gig killed only one salmon. Besides the four
+fish procured from the Indians, captain Clarke obtained some
+fishroe in exchange for three small fish-hooks, the use of
+which he taught them, and which they very readily comprehended.
+All the men who are not engaged in hunting, are
+occupied in making pack-saddles for the horses which captain
+Lewis informed us he had bought.</p>
+
+<p>August 20. Two hunters were despatched early in the
+morning, but they returned without killing any thing, and
+the only game we procured was a beaver, who was caught
+last night in a trap which he carried off two miles before he
+was found. The fur of this animal is as good as any we
+have ever seen, nor does it in fact appear to be ever out of
+season on the upper branches of the Missouri. This beaver,
+with several dozen of fine trout, gave us a plentiful subsistence
+for the day. The party were occupied chiefly in making
+pack-saddles, in the manufacture of which we supply the place
+of nails and boards, by substituting for the first thongs of raw
+hide, which answer very well; and for boards we use the
+handles of our oars, and the plank of some boxes, the contents
+of which we empty into sacks of raw hides made for
+the purpose. The Indians who visit us behave with the
+greatest decorum, and the women are busily engaged in making
+and mending the moccasins of the party. As we had
+still some superfluous baggage which would be too heavy to
+carry across the mountains, it became necessary to make a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_406" id="Pg_406" title="Pg_406">[406]</a></span>cache or deposit. For this purpose we selected a spot on the
+bank of the river, three quarters of a mile below the camp,
+and three men were set to dig it, with a sentinel in the neighbourhood,
+who was ordered if the natives were to straggle
+that way, to fire a signal for the workmen to desist and separate.
+Towards evening the cache was completed without
+being perceived by the Indians, and the packages prepared
+for deposit.</p>
+
+
+<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p>
+
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_407" id="Pg_407" title="Pg_407">[407]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<!-- ROUTE MAP -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173"
+        alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Contest between Drewyer and a Shoshonee&mdash;The fidelity and honour of that
+tribe&mdash;The party set out on their journey&mdash;The conduct of Cameahwait reproved,
+and himself reconciled&mdash;The easy parturition of the Shoshonee women&mdash;History
+of this nation&mdash;Their terror of the Pawkees&mdash;Their government
+and family economy in their treatment of their women&mdash;Their
+complaints of Spanish treachery&mdash;Description of their weapons of warfare&mdash;Their
+curious mode of making a shield&mdash;The caparison of their horses&mdash;The dress
+of the men and of the women particularly described&mdash;Their mode of acquiring
+new names.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>Wednesday, August 21. The weather was very cold;
+the water which stood in the vessels exposed to the air being
+covered with ice a quarter of an inch thick: the ink
+freezes in the pen, and the low grounds are perfectly whitened
+with frost: after this the day proved excessively warm.
+The party were engaged in their usual occupations, and
+completed twenty saddles with the necessary harness, all
+prepared to set off as soon as the Indians should arrive.
+Our two hunters who were despatched early in the morning
+have not returned, so that we were obliged to encroach on
+our pork and corn, which we consider as the last resource
+when our casual supplies of game fail. After dark we carried
+our baggage to the cache, and deposited what we
+thought too cumbrous to carry with us: a small assortment
+of medicines, and all the specimens of plants, seeds, and
+minerals, collected since leaving the falls of the Missouri.
+Late at night Drewyer, one of the hunters, returned with a
+fawn and a considerable quantity of Indian plunder, which
+he had taken by way of reprisal. While hunting this morning
+in the Shoshonee cove, he came suddenly upon an
+Indian camp, at which were an old man, a young one, three
+women, and a boy: they showed no surprise at the sight of
+him and he therefore rode up to them, and after turning
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_408" id="Pg_408" title="Pg_408">[408]</a></span>his horse loose to graze sat down and began to converse with
+them by signs. They had just finished a repast on some
+roots, and in about twenty minutes one of the women spoke
+to the rest of the party, who immediately went out, collected
+their horses and began to saddle them. Having rested
+himself, Drewyer thought that he would continue his hunt,
+and rising went to catch his horse who was at a short distance,
+forgetting at the moment to take up his rifle. He
+had scarcely gone more than fifty paces when the Indians
+mounted their horses, the young man snatched up the rifle,
+and leaving all their baggage, whipt their horses, and set
+off at full speed towards the passes of the mountains: Drewyer
+instantly jumped on his horse and pursued them. After
+running about ten miles the horses of the women nearly gave
+out, and the women finding Drewyer gain on them raised
+dreadful cries, which induced the young man to slacken his
+pace, and being mounted on a very fleet horse rode round
+them at a short distance. Drewyer now came up with the
+women, and by signs persuaded them that he did not mean to
+hurt them: they then stopped, and as the young man came
+towards them Drewyer asked him for his rifle, but the only
+part of the answer which he understood was Pahkee, the
+name by which they call their enemies, the Minnetarees of
+fort de Prairie. While they were thus engaged in talking,
+Drewyer watched his opportunity, and seeing the Indian off
+his guard, galloped up to him and seized his rifle: the Indian
+struggled for some time, but finding Drewyer getting
+too strong for him, had the presence of mind to open the
+pan and let the priming fall out; he then let go his hold,
+and giving his horse the whip escaped at full speed, leaving
+the women to the mercy of the conqueror. Drewyer then
+returned to where he had first seen them, where he found
+that their baggage had been left behind, and brought it to
+camp with him.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday, 22. This morning early two men were sent
+to complete the covering of the cache, which could not be
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_409" id="Pg_409" title="Pg_409">[409]</a></span>so perfectly done during the night as to elude the search of
+the Indians. On examining the spoils which Drewyer had
+obtained, they were found to consist of several dressed and
+undressed skins; two bags wove with the bark of the silk grass,
+each containing a bushel of dried serviceberries, and
+about the same quantity of roots; an instrument made of bone
+for manufacturing the flints into heads for arrows; and a
+number of flints themselves: these were much of the same
+colour and nearly as transparent as common black glass,
+and when cut detached itself into flakes, leaving a very
+sharp edge.</p>
+
+<p>The roots were of three kinds, and folded separate from
+each in hides of buffaloe made into parchment. The first is
+a fusiform root six inches long, and about the size of a man's
+finger at the largest end, with radicles larger than is usual
+in roots of the fusiform sort: the rind is white and thin, the
+body is also white, mealy, and easily reducible, by pounding,
+to a substance resembling flour, like which it thickens
+by boiling, and is of an agreeable flavour: it is eaten frequently
+in its raw state either green or dried. The second
+species was much mutilated, but appeared to be fibrous; it
+is of a cylindrical form about the size of a small quill, hard
+and brittle. A part of the rind which had not been detached
+in the preparation was hard and black, but the rest
+of the root was perfectly white; this the Indiana informed
+us was always boiled before eating; and on making the experiment
+we found that it became perfectly soft, but had
+a bitter taste, which was nauseous to our taste, but which
+the Indians seemed to relish; for on giving the roots to them
+they were very heartily swallowed.</p>
+
+<p>The third species was a small nut about the size of a
+nutmeg, of an irregularly rounded form, something like the
+smallest of the Jerusalem artichokes, which, on boiling, we
+found them to resemble also in flavour, and is certainly the
+best root we have seen in use among the Indians. On inquiring
+of the Indians from what plant these roots were
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_410" id="Pg_410" title="Pg_410">[410]</a></span>procured, they informed us that none of them grew near this
+place.</p>
+
+<p>The men were chiefly employed in dressing the skins belonging
+to the party who accompanied captain Clarke.
+About eleven o'clock Chaboneau and his wife returned with
+Cameahwait, accompanied by about fifty men with their
+women and children. After they had encamped near us and
+turned loose their horses, we called a council of all the
+chiefs and warriors and addressed them in a speech; additional
+presents were then distributed, particularly to the
+two second chiefs, who had agreeably to their promises exerted
+themselves in our favour. The council was then adjourned,
+and all the Indians were treated with an abundant
+meal of boiled Indian corn and beans. The poor wretches,
+who had no animal food and scarcely any thing but a few
+fish, had been almost starved, and received this new luxury
+with great thankfulness. Out of compliment to the chief we
+gave him a few dried squashes which we had brought from
+the Mandans, and he declared it was the best food he had
+ever tasted except sugar, a small lump of which he had received
+from his sister: he now declared how happy they
+should all be to live in a country which produced so many
+good things, and we told him that it would not be long before
+the white men would put it in their power to live below
+the mountains, where they might themselves cultivate all
+these kinds of food instead of wandering in the mountains.
+He appeared to be much pleased with this information, and
+the whole party being now in excellent temper after their
+repast, we began our purchase of horses. We soon obtained
+five very good ones on very reasonable terms; that is, by
+giving for each merchandise which cost us originally about
+six dollars. We have again to admire the perfect decency
+and propriety of their conduct; for although so numerous,
+they do not attempt to crowd round our camp or take any
+thing which they see lying about, and whenever they borrow
+knives or kettles or any other article from the men, they
+return them with great fidelity.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_411" id="Pg_411" title="Pg_411">[411]</a></span>Towards evening we formed a drag of bushes, and in
+about two hours caught five hundred and twenty-eight very
+good fish most of them large trout. Among them we observed
+for the first time ten or twelve trout of a white or
+silvery colour, except on the back and head where they are
+of a bluish cast: in appearance and shape they resemble
+exactly the speckled trout, except that they are not quite so
+large, though the scales are much larger, and the flavour
+equally good. The greater part of the fish was distributed
+among the Indians.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 28. Our visitors seem to depend wholly on us
+for food, and as the state of our provisions obliges us to be
+careful of our remaining stock of corn and flour, this
+was an additional reason for urging our departure; but Cameahwait
+requested us to wait till the arrival of another
+party of his nation who were expected to-day. Knowing
+that it would be in vain to oppose his wish, we consented,
+and two hunters were sent out with orders to go further up
+the southeast fork than they had hitherto been. At the
+same time the chief was informed of the low state of our
+provisions, and advised to send out his young men to hunt.
+This he recommended them to do, and most of them set out:
+we then sunk our canoes by means of stones to the bottom
+of the river, a situation which better than any other secured
+them against the effects of the high waters, and the frequent
+fires of the plains; the Indians having promised not
+to disturb them during our absence, a promise we believe
+the more readily, as they are almost too lazy to take the
+trouble of raising them for fire-wood. We were desirous
+of purchasing some more horses, but they declined selling
+any until we reached their camp in the mountains.
+Soon after starting the Indian hunters discovered a mule
+buck, and twelve of their horsemen pursued it, for four
+miles. We saw the chase, which was very entertaining, and
+at length they rode it down and killed it. This mule buck
+was the largest deer of any kind we have seen, being nearly
+as large as a doe elk. Besides this they brought in another
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_412" id="Pg_412" title="Pg_412">[412]</a></span>deer and three goats; but instead of a general distribution
+of the meat, and such as we have hitherto seen among all
+tribes of Indians, we observed that some families had a
+large share, while others received none. On inquiring of
+Cameahwait the reason of this custom, he said that meat
+among them was scarce; that each hunter reserved what he
+killed for the use of himself and his own family, none of the
+rest having any claim on what he chose to keep. Our hunters
+returned soon after with two mule deer and three common
+deer, three of which we distributed among the families
+who had received none of the game of their own hunters.
+About three o'clock the expected party consisting of fifty
+men, women and children arrived. We now learnt that
+most of the Indians were on their way down the valley towards
+the buffaloe country, and some anxiety to accompany
+them appeared to prevail among those who had promised
+to assist us in crossing the mountains. We ourselves were
+not without some apprehension that they might leave us,
+but as they continued to say that they would return with us
+nothing was said upon the subject. We were, however, resolved
+to move early in the morning; and therefore despatched
+two men to hunt in the cove and leave the game on the
+route we should pass to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 24. As the Indians who arrived yesterday had
+a number of spare horses, we thought it probable they might
+be willing to dispose of them, and desired the chief to speak
+to them for that purpose. They declined giving any positive
+answer, but requested to see the goods which we proposed
+to exchange. We then produced some battle-axes
+which we had made at fort Mandan, and a quantity of
+knives; with both of which they appeared very much pleased;
+and we were soon able to purchase three horses by giving
+for each an axe, a knife, a hankerchief and a little paint.
+To this we were obliged to add a second knife, a shirt, a handkerchief
+and a pair of leggings; and such is the estimation in
+which those animals are held, that even at this price, which
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_413" id="Pg_413" title="Pg_413">[413]</a></span>was double that for a horse, the fellow who sold him took
+upon himself great merit in having given away a mule to
+us. They now said that they had no more horses for sale,
+and as we had now nine of our own, two hired horses, and a
+mule, we began loading them as heavily as was prudent,
+and placing the rest on the shoulders of the Indian women,
+left our camp at twelve o'clock. We were all on foot, except
+Sacajawea, for whom her husband had purchased a horse
+with some articles which we gave him for that purpose; an
+Indian however had the politeness to offer captain Lewis one
+of his horses to ride, which he accepted in order better to direct
+the march of the party. We crossed the river below the
+forks, directing our course towards the cove by the route
+already passed, and had just reached the lower part of the
+cove when an Indian rode up to captain Lewis to inform him
+that one of his men was very sick, and unable to come on.
+The party was immediately halted at a run which falls into
+the creek on the left, and captain Lewis rode back two
+miles, and found Wiser severely afflicted with the colic: by
+giving him some of the essence of peppermint and laudanum,
+he recovered sufficiently to ride the horse of captain
+Lewis, who then rejoined the party on foot. When he arrived
+he found that the Indians who had been impatiently expecting
+his return, at last unloaded their horses and turned
+them loose, and had now made their camp for the night. It
+would have been fruitless to remonstrate, and not prudent
+to excite any irritation, and therefore, although the sun
+was still high, and we had made only six miles, we thought
+it best to remain with them: after we had encamped there
+fell a slight shower of rain. One of the men caught several
+fine trout; but Drewyer had been sent out to hunt without
+having killed any thing. We therefore gave a little
+corn to those of the Indians who were actually engaged in
+carrying our baggage, and who had absolutely nothing to
+eat. We also advised Cameahwait, as we could not supply
+all his people with provisions, to recommend to all who
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_414" id="Pg_414" title="Pg_414">[414]</a></span>were not assisting us, to go on before us to their camp. This
+he did: but in the morning,</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 25, a few only followed his advice, the rest accompanying
+us at some distance on each side. We set out at
+sunrise and after going seventeen miles halted for dinner
+within two miles of the narrow pass in the mountains. The
+Indians who were on the sides of our party had started some
+antelopes, but were obliged after a pursuit of several hours
+to abandon the chase: our hunters had in the meantime
+brought in three deer, the greater part of which was distributed
+among the Indians. Whilst at dinner we learnt by
+means of Sacajawea, that the young men who left us this
+morning, carried a request from the chief, that the village
+would break up its encampment and meet this party to-morrow,
+when they would all go down the Missouri into the
+buffaloe country. Alarmed at this new caprice of the Indians
+which, if not counteracted, threatened to leave ourselves
+and our baggage on the mountains, or even if we reached the
+waters of the Columbia, prevent our obtaining horses to go
+on further, captain Lewis immediately called the three
+chiefs together. After smoking a pipe he asked them if
+they were men of their words, and if we can rely on their
+promises. They readily answered in the affirmative. He
+then asked, if they had not agreed to assist us in carrying
+our baggage over the mountains. To this they also answered
+yes; and why then, said he, have you requested your people
+to meet us to-morrow, where it will be impossible for
+us to trade for horses, as you promised we should. If, he
+continued, you had not promised to help us in transporting
+our goods over the mountains, we should not have attempted
+it, but have returned down the river, after which no
+white men would ever have come into your country. If you
+wish the whites to be your friends, and to bring you arms
+and protect you from your enemies, you should never promise
+what you do not mean to perform: when I first met
+you, you doubted what I said, yet you afterwards saw that
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_415" id="Pg_415" title="Pg_415">[415]</a></span>I told you the truth. How therefore can you doubt what I
+now tell you; you see that I have divided amongst you the
+meat which my hunters kill, and I promise to give all who
+assist us a share of whatever we have to eat. If therefore
+you intend to keep your promise, send one of the young men
+immediately to order the people to remain at the village till
+we arrive.</p>
+
+<p>The two inferior chiefs then said, that they had wished
+to keep their words and to assist us; that they had not sent
+for the people, but on the contrary had disapproved of the
+measure which was done wholly by the first chief. Cameahwait
+remained silent for some time: at last he said that
+he knew he had done wrong, but that seeing his people all in
+want of provisions, he had wished to hasten their departure
+for the country where their wants might be supplied. He
+however now declared, that having passed his word he would
+never violate it, and counter orders were immediately sent
+to the village by a young man, to whom we gave a handkerchief
+in order to ensure despatch and fidelity.</p>
+
+<p>This difficulty being now adjusted, our march was resumed
+with an unusual degree of alacrity on the part of the
+Indians. We passed a spot, where six years ago the <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'Shosohnees'.">Shoshonees</ins>
+suffered a very severe defeat from the Minnetarees;
+and late in the evening we reached the upper part of the
+cove where the creek enters the mountains. The part of
+the cove on the northeast side of the creek has lately been
+burnt, most probably as a signal on some occasion. Here we
+were joined by our hunters with a single deer, which captain
+Lewis gave, as a proof of his sincerity, to the women
+and children, and remained supperless himself. As we came
+along we observed several large hares, some ducks, and
+many of the cock of the plains: in the low grounds of the
+cove were also considerable quantities of wild onions.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 26. The morning was excessively cold, and the
+ice in our vessels was nearly a quarter of an inch in thickness:
+we set out at sunrise, and soon reached the fountain of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_416" id="Pg_416" title="Pg_416">[416]</a></span>the Missouri, where we halted for a few minutes, and then
+crossing the dividing ridge reached the fine spring where
+captain Lewis had slept on the 12th in his first excursion
+to the Shoshonee camp. The grass on the hill sides is perfectly
+dry and parched by the sun, but near the spring was
+a fine green grass: we therefore halted for dinner and turned
+our horses to graze. To each of the Indians who were engaged
+in carrying our baggage was distributed a pint of
+corn, which they parched, then pounded, and made a sort
+of soup. One of the women who had been leading two
+of our pack horses halted at a rivulet about a mile behind,
+and sent on the two horses by a female friend: on inquiring
+of Cameahwait the cause of her detention, he answered with
+great appearance of unconcern, that she had just stopped to
+lie in, but would soon overtake us. In fact we were astonished
+to see her in about an hour's time come on with her
+new born infant and pass us on her way to the camp, apparently
+in perfect health.</p>
+
+<p>This wonderful facility with which the Indian women
+bring forth their children, seems rather some benevolent
+gift of nature, in exempting them from pains which their
+savage state would render doubly grievous, than any result
+of habit. If as has been imagined, a pure dry air or a cold
+and elevated country are obstacles to easy delivery, every
+difficulty incident to that operation might be expected in
+this part of the continent; nor can another reason, the habit
+of carrying heavy burthens during pregnancy, be at all applicable
+to the Shoshonee women, who rarely carry any
+burdens, since their nation possesses an abundance of horses.
+We have indeed been several times informed by those conversant
+with Indian manners, and who asserted their knowledge
+of the fact, that Indian women pregnant by white
+men experience more difficulty in child-birth than when the
+father is an Indian. If this account be true, it may contribute
+to strengthen the belief, that the easy delivery of the
+Indian women is wholly constitutional.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_417" id="Pg_417" title="Pg_417">[417]</a></span>The tops of the high irregular mountains to the westward
+are still entirely covered with snow; and the coolness
+which the air acquires in passing them, is a very agreeable
+relief from the heat, which has dried up the herbage on the
+sides of the hills. While we stopped, the women were busily
+employed in collecting the root of a plant with which they
+feed their children, who like their mothers are nearly half
+starved and in a wretched condition. It is a species of fennel
+which grows in the moist grounds; the radix is of the
+knob kind, of a long ovate form, terminating in a single radicle,
+the whole being three or four inches long, and the
+thickest part about the size of a man's little finger: when
+fresh, it is white, firm, and crisp; and when dried and pounded
+makes a fine white meal. Its flavour is not unlike that of
+aniseed, though less pungent. From one to four of these
+knobbed roots are attached to a single stem which rises to
+the height of three or four feet, and is jointed, smooth, cylindric,
+and has several small peduncles, one at each joint
+above the sheathing leaf. Its colour is a deep green, as is
+also that of the leaf, which is sheathing, sessile, and <i>polipartite</i>,
+the divisions being long and narrow. The flowers,
+which are now in bloom, are small and numerous, with
+white and umbellifferous petals: there are no root leaves.
+As soon as the seeds have matured, the roots of the present
+year as well as the stem decline, and are renewed in the succeeding
+spring from the little knot which unites the roots.
+The sunflower is also abundant here, and the seeds, which
+are now ripe, are gathered in considerable quantities, and
+after being pounded and rubbed between smooth stones,
+form a kind of meal, which is a favourite dish among the
+Indians.</p>
+
+<p>After dinner we continued our route and were soon met
+by a party of young men on horseback, who turned with us
+and went to the village. As soon as we were within sight of
+it, Cameahwait requested that we would discharge our guns;
+the men were therefore drawn up in a single rank, and gave
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_418" id="Pg_418" title="Pg_418">[418]</a></span>a running fire of two rounds, to the great satisfaction of the
+Indians. We then proceeded to the encampment where we
+arrived about six o'clock, and were conducted to the leathern
+lodge in the centre of thirty-two others made of brush. The
+baggage was arranged near this tent, which captain Lewis
+occupied, and surrounded by those of the men so as to secure
+it from pillage. This camp was in a beautiful smooth meadow
+near the river, and about three miles above their camp
+when we first visited the Indians. We here found Colter,
+who had been sent by captain Clarke with a note apprising
+us that there were no hopes of a passage by water, and that
+the most practicable route seemed to be that mentioned by
+his guide, towards the north. Whatever road we meant to
+take, it was now necessary to provide ourselves with horses;
+we therefore informed Cameahwait of our intention of
+going to the great river beyond the mountains, and that we
+would wish to purchase twenty more horses: he said the Minnetarees
+had stolen a great number of their horses this spring,
+but he still hoped they could spare us that number. In order
+not to loose the present favourable moment, and to keep the
+Indians as cheerful as possible, the violins were brought out
+and our men danced to the great diversion of the Indians.
+This mirth was the more welcome because our situation was
+not precisely that which would most dispose us for gayety, for
+we have only a little parched corn to eat, and our means of
+subsistence or of success, depend on the wavering temper of
+the natives, who may change their minds to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p>The Shoshonees are a small tribe of the nation called
+Snake Indians, a vague denomination, which embraces at
+once the inhabitants of the southern parts of the Rocky
+mountains and of the plains on each side. The Shoshonees
+with whom we now are, amount to about one hundred warriors,
+and three times that number of women and children.
+Within their own recollection they formerly lived in the
+plains, but they have been driven into the mountains by the
+Pawkees, or the roving Indians of the Sascatchawain, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_419" id="Pg_419" title="Pg_419">[419]</a></span>are now obliged to visit occasionally, and by stealth, the
+country of their ancestors. Their lives are indeed migratory.
+From the middle of May to the beginning of September,
+they reside on the waters of the Columbia, where
+they consider themselves perfectly secure from the Pawkees
+who have never yet found their way to that retreat.
+During this time they subsist chiefly on salmon, and as that
+fish disappears on the approach of autumn, they are obliged
+to seek subsistence elsewhere. They then cross the ridge
+to the waters of the Missouri, down which they proceed
+slowly and cautiously, till they are joined near the three
+forks by other bands, either of their own nation or of the
+Flatheads, with whom they associate against the common
+enemy. Being now strong in numbers, they venture to hunt
+buffaloe in the plains eastward of the mountains, near which
+they spend the winter, till the return of the salmon invites
+them to the Columbia. But such is their terror of the Pawkees,
+that as long as they can obtain the scantiest subsistence,
+they do not leave the interior of the mountains; and
+as soon as they collect a large stock of dried meat, they
+again retreat, and thus alternately obtaining their food at
+the hazard of their lives, and hiding themselves to consume it.
+In this loose and wandering existence they suffer the extremes
+of want; for two thirds of the year they are forced to
+live in the mountains, passing whole weeks without meat,
+and with nothing to eat but a few fish and roots. Nor can
+any thing be imagined more wretched than their condition
+at the present time, when the salmon is fast retiring, when
+roots are becoming scarce, and they have not yet acquired
+strength to hazard an encounter with their enemies. So
+insensible are they however to these calamities, that the
+Shoshonees are not only cheerful but even gay; and their
+character, which is more interesting than that of any Indians
+we have seen, has in it much of the dignity of misfortune.
+In their intercourse with strangers they are frank and communicative,
+in their dealings perfectly fair, nor have we had
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_420" id="Pg_420" title="Pg_420">[420]</a></span>during our stay with them, any reason to suspect that the
+display of all our new and valuable wealth, has tempted
+them into a single act of dishonesty. While they have generally
+shared with us the little they possess, they have always
+abstained from begging any thing from us. With
+their liveliness of temper, they are fond of gaudy dresses,
+and of all sorts of amusements, particularly to games of
+hazard; and like most Indians fond of boasting of their own
+warlike exploits, whether real or fictitious. In their conduct
+towards ourselves, they were kind and obliging, and
+though on one occasion they seemed willing to neglect us,
+yet we scarcely knew how to blame the treatment by which
+we suffered, when we recollected how few civilized chiefs
+would have hazarded the comforts or the subsistence of
+their people for the sake of a few strangers. This manliness
+of character may cause or it may be formed by the nature
+of their government, which is perfectly free from any
+restraint. Each individual is his own master, and the only
+control to which his conduct is subjected, is the advice of
+a chief supported by his influence over the opinions of the
+rest of the tribe. The chief himself is in fact no more than
+the most confidential person among the warriors, a rank
+neither distinguished by any external honor, nor invested
+by any ceremony, but gradually acquired from the good
+wishes of his companions and by superior merit. Such an
+officer has therefore strictly no power; he may recommend or
+advise or influence, but his commands have no effect on those
+who incline to disobey, and who may at any time withdraw
+from their voluntary allegiance. His shadowy authority which
+cannot survive the confidence which supports it, often decays
+with the personal vigour of the chief, or is transferred
+to some more fortunate or favourite hero.</p>
+
+<p>In their domestic economy, the man is equally sovereign.
+The man is the sole proprietor of his wives and daughters,
+and can barter them away, or dispose of them in any manner
+he may think proper. The children are seldom corrected;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_421" id="Pg_421" title="Pg_421">[421]</a></span>the boys, particularly, soon become their own masters;
+they are never whipped, for they say that it breaks their spirit,
+and that after being flogged they never recover their independence
+of mind, even when they grow to manhood. A
+plurality of wives is very common; but these are not generally
+sisters, as among the Minnetarees and Mandans, but
+are purchased of different fathers. The infant daughters
+are often betrothed by the father to men who are grown,
+either for themselves or for their sons, for whom they are
+desirous of providing wives. The compensation to the
+father is usually made in horses or mules; and the girl remains
+with her parents till the age of puberty, which is thirteen
+or fourteen, when she is surrendered to her husband.
+At the same time the father often makes a present to the
+husband equal to what he had formerly received as the
+price of his daughter, though this return is optional with her
+parent. Sacajawea had been contracted in this way before
+she was taken prisoner, and when we brought her back,
+her betrothed was still living. Although he was double the
+age of Sacajawea, and had two other wives, he claimed her,
+but on finding that she had a child by her new husband,
+Chaboneau, he relinquished his pretensions and said he did
+not want her.</p>
+
+<p>The chastity of the women does not appear to be held
+in much estimation. The husband will for a trifling present
+lend his wife for a night to a stranger, and the loan
+may be protracted by increasing the value of the present.
+Yet strange as it may seem, notwithstanding this facility,
+any connexion of this kind not authorized by the husband,
+is considered highly offensive and quite as disgraceful to
+his character as the same licentiousness in civilized societies.
+The Shoshonees are not so importunate in volunteering
+the services of their wives as we found the Sioux were;
+and indeed we observed among them some women who appeared
+to be held in more respect than those of any nation
+we had seen. But the mass of the females are condemned,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_422" id="Pg_422" title="Pg_422">[422]</a></span>as among all savage nations, to the lowest and most laborious
+drudgery. When the tribe is stationary, they collect
+the roots, and cook; they build the huts, dress the skins and
+make clothing; collect the wood, and assist in taking care
+of the horses on the route; they load the horses and have
+the charge of all the baggage. The only business of the
+man is to fight; he therefore takes on himself the care of
+his horse, the companion of his warfare; but he will descend
+to no other labour than to hunt and to fish. He would consider
+himself degraded by being compelled to walk any distance;
+and were he so poor as to possess only two horses, he would
+ride the best of them, and leave the other for his wives and
+children and their baggage; and if he has too many wives
+or too much baggage for the horse, the wives have no alternative
+but to follow him on foot; they are not however
+often reduced to those extremities, for their stock of
+horses is very ample. Notwithstanding their losses this
+spring they still have at least seven hundred, among
+which are about forty colts, and half that number of mules.
+There are no horses here which can be considered as wild;
+we have seen two only on this side of the Muscleshell river
+which were without owners, and even those although shy,
+showed every mark of having been once in the possession
+of man. The original stock was procured from the Spaniards,
+but they now raise their own. The horses are generally
+very fine, of a good size, vigorous and patient of
+fatigue as well as hunger. Each warrior has one or two
+tied to a stake near his hut both day and night, so as to be
+always prepared for action. The mules are obtained in the
+course of trade from the Spaniards, with whose brands
+several of them are marked, or stolen from them by the
+frontier Indians. They are the finest animals of that kind
+we have ever seen, and at this distance from the Spanish
+colonies are very highly valued. The worst are considered
+as worth the price of two horses, and a good mule cannot
+be obtained for less than three and sometimes four horses.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_423" id="Pg_423" title="Pg_423">[423]</a></span>We also saw a bridle bit, stirrups and several other
+articles which, like the mules, came from the Spanish colonies.
+The Shoshonees say that they can reach those settlements
+in ten days' march by the route of the Yellowstone
+river; but we readily perceive that the Spaniards
+are by no means favourites. They complain that the Spaniards
+refuse to let them have fire arms under pretence
+that these dangerous weapons will only induce them to kill
+each other. In the meantime, say the Shoshonees, we are
+left to the mercy of the Minnetarees, who having arms,
+plunder them of their horses, and put them to death without
+mercy. "But this should not be," said Cameahwait
+fiercely, "if we had guns, instead of hiding ourselves in
+the mountains and living like the bears on roots and berries,
+we would then go down and live in the buffaloe country
+in spite of our enemies, whom we never fear when we
+meet on equal terms."</p>
+
+<p>As war is the chief occupation, bravery is the first virtue
+among the Shoshonees. None can hope to be distinguished
+without having given proofs of it, nor can there be
+any preferment, or influence among the nation, without
+some warlike achievement. Those important events which
+give reputation to a warrior, and which entitle him to a
+new name, are killing a white bear, stealing individually
+the horses of the enemy, leading out a party who happen
+to be successful either in plundering horses or destroying
+the enemy, and lastly scalping a warrior. These acts seem
+of nearly equal dignity, but the last, that of taking an enemy's
+scalp, is an honour quite independent of the act of
+vanquishing him. To kill your adversary is of no importance
+unless the scalp is brought from the field of battle,
+and were a warrior to slay any number of his enemies in
+action, and others were to obtain the scalps or first touch
+the dead, they would have all the honours, since they have
+borne off the trophy.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_424" id="Pg_424" title="Pg_424">[424]</a></span>Although thus oppressed by the Minnetarees, the Shoshonees
+are still a very military people. Their cold and rugged
+country inures them to fatigue; their long abstinence
+makes them support the dangers of mountain warfare, and
+worn down as we saw them, by want of sustenance, have
+a look of fierce and adventurous courage. The Shoshonee
+warrior always fights on horseback; he possesses a few bad
+guns, which are reserved exclusively for war, but his common
+arms are the bow and arrow, a shield, a lance and a
+weapon called by the Chippeways, by whom it was formerly
+used, the poggamoggon. The bow is made of cedar or pine
+covered on the outer side with sinews and glue. It is about
+two and a half feet long, and does not differ in shape from
+those used by the Sioux, Mandans and Minnetarees. Sometimes,
+however, the bow is made of a single piece of the
+horn of an elk, covered on the back like those of wood with
+sinews and glue, and occasionally ornamented by a strand
+wrought of porcupine quills and sinews, which is wrapped
+round the horn near its two ends. The bows made of the
+horns of the bighorn, are still more prized, and are formed
+by cementing with glue flat pieces of the horn together,
+covering the back with sinews and glue, and loading the
+whole with an unusual quantity of ornaments. The arrows
+resemble those of the other Indians except in being more
+slender than any we have seen. They are contained, with
+the implements for striking fire, in a narrow quiver formed
+of different kinds of skin, though that of the otter seems to
+be preferred. It is just long enough to protect the arrows
+from the weather, and is worn on the back by means of a
+strap passing over the right shoulder and under the left
+arm. The shield is a circular piece of buffaloe hide about
+two feet four or five inches in diameter, ornamented with
+feathers, and a fringe round it of dressed leather, and
+adorned or deformed with paintings of strange figures. The
+buffaloe hide is perfectly proof against any arrow, but in
+the minds of the Shoshonees, its power to protect them is
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_425" id="Pg_425" title="Pg_425">[425]</a></span>chiefly derived from the virtues which are communicated
+to it by the old men and jugglers. To make a shield is indeed
+one of their most important ceremonies: it begins by a
+feast to which all the warriors, old men and jugglers are
+invited. After the repast a hole is dug in the ground about
+eighteen inches in depth and of the same diameter as the
+intended shield: into this hole red hot stones are thrown
+and water poured over them, till they emit a very <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'stong'.">strong</ins>
+hot steam. The buffaloe skin, which must be the entire
+hide of a male two years old, and never suffered to dry since
+it was taken from the animal, is now laid across the hole,
+with the fleshy side to the ground, and stretched in every
+direction by as many as can take hold of it. As the skin
+becomes heated, the hair separates and is taken off by the
+hand; till at last the skin is contracted into the compass designed
+for the shield. It is then taken off and placed on a
+hide prepared into parchment, and then pounded during the
+rest of the festival by the bare heels of those who are invited
+to it. This operation sometimes continues for several
+days, after which it is delivered to the proprietor, and declared
+by the old men and jugglers to be a security against
+arrows; and provided the feast has been satisfactory, against
+even the bullets of their enemies. Such is the delusion,
+that many of the Indians implicitly believe that this ceremony
+has given to the shield supernatural powers, and that
+they have no longer to fear any weapons of their enemies.</p>
+
+<p>The paggamoggon is an instrument, consisting of a handle
+twenty-two inches long, made of wood, covered with
+dressed leather about the size of a whip-handle: at one end
+is a thong of two inches in length, which is tied to a round
+stone weighing two pounds and held in a cover of leather: at
+the other end is a loop of the same material, which is passed
+round the wrist so as to secure the hold of the instrument,
+with which they strike a very severe blow.</p>
+
+<p>Besides these, they have a kind of armour something
+like a coat of mail, which is formed by a great many folds
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_426" id="Pg_426" title="Pg_426">[426]</a></span>of dressed antelope skins, united by means of a mixture of
+glue and sand. With this they cover their own bodies and
+those of their horses, and find it impervious to the arrow.</p>
+
+<p>The caparison of their horses is a halter and a saddle:
+the first is either a rope of six or seven strands of buffaloe
+hair platted or twisted together, about the size of a man's
+finger and of great strength; or merely a thong of raw hide,
+made pliant by pounding and rubbing; though the first kind
+is much preferred. The halter is very long, and is never
+taken from the neck of the horse when in constant use.
+One end of it is first tied round the neck in a knot and then
+brought down to the under jaw, round which it is formed
+into a simple noose, passing through the mouth: it is then
+drawn up on the right side and held by the rider in his left
+hand, while the rest trails after him to some distance. At
+other times the knot is formed at a little distance from one
+of the ends, so as to let that end serve as a bridle, while the
+other trails on the ground. With these cords dangling along
+side of them the horse is put to his full speed without fear of
+falling, and when he is turned to graze the noose is merely
+taken from his mouth. The saddle in formed like the pack-saddles
+used by the French and Spaniards, of two flat thin
+boards which fit the sides of the horse, and are kept together
+by two cross pieces, one before and the other behind,
+which rise to a considerable height, ending sometimes in a
+flat point extending outwards, and always making the saddle
+deep and narrow. Under this a piece of buffaloe skin,
+with the hair on, is placed so as to prevent the rubbing of the
+boards, and when they mount they throw a piece of skin or
+robe over the saddle, which has no permanent cover. When
+stirrups are used, they consist of wood covered with leather;
+but stirrups and saddles are conveniences reserved for
+old men and women. The young warriors rarely use any
+thing except a small leather pad stuffed with hair, and secured
+by a girth made of a leathern thong. In this way they
+ride with great expertness, and they have a particular dexterity
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_427" id="Pg_427" title="Pg_427">[427]</a></span>in catching the horse when he is running at large. If
+he will not immediately submit when they wish to take
+him, they make a noose in the rope, and although the horse
+may be at a distance, or even running, rarely fail to fix it on
+his neck; and such is the docility of the animal, that however
+unruly he may seem, he surrenders as soon as he feels
+the rope on him. This cord is so useful in this way that it is
+never dispensed with, even when they use the Spanish bridle,
+which they prefer, and always procure when they have
+it in their power. The horse becomes almost an object of
+attachment: a favourite is frequently painted and his ears
+cut into various shapes: the mane and tail, which are never
+drawn nor trimmed, are decorated with feathers of birds,
+and sometimes a warrior suspends at the breast of his horse
+the finest ornaments he possesses.</p>
+
+<p>Thus armed and mounted the Shoshonee is a formidable
+enemy, even with the feeble weapons which he is still obliged
+to use. When they attack at full speed they bend forward
+and cover their bodies with the shield, while with the right
+hand they shoot under the horses neck.</p>
+
+<p>The only articles of metal which the Shoshonees possess
+are a few bad knives, some brass kettles, some bracelets or
+armbands of iron and brass, a few buttons worn as ornaments
+in their hair, one or two spears about a foot in length,
+and some heads for arrows made of iron and brass. All
+these they had obtained in trading with the Crow or Rocky
+mountain Indians, who live on the Yellowstone. The few
+bridle-bits and stirrups they procured from the Spanish colonies.</p>
+
+<p>The instrument which supplies the place of a knife among
+them, is a piece of flint with no regular form, and the sharp
+part of it not more than one or two inches long: the edge of
+this is renewed, and the flint itself is formed into heads for
+arrows, by means of the point of a deer or elk horn, an instrument
+which they use with great art and ingenuity.
+There are no axes or hatchets; all the wood being cut with
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_428" id="Pg_428" title="Pg_428">[428]</a></span>flint or elk-horn, the latter of which is always used as a
+wedge in splitting wood. Their utensils consist, besides the
+brass kettles, of pots in the form of a jar, made either of
+earth, or of a stone found in the hills between Madison and
+Jefferson rivers, which, though soft and white in its natural
+state, becomes very hard and black after exposure to the
+fire. The horns of the buffaloe and the bighorn supply them
+with spoons.</p>
+
+<p>The fire is always kindled by means of a blunt arrow,
+and a piece of well-seasoned wood of a soft spongy kind,
+such as the willow or cottonwood.</p>
+
+<p>The Shoshonees are of a diminutive stature, with thick
+flat feet and ankles, crooked legs, and are, generally speaking,
+worse formed than any nation of Indians we have seen.
+Their complexion resembles that of the Sioux, and is darker
+than that of the Minnetarees, Mandans, or Shawnees. The
+hair in both sexes is suffered to fall loosely over the face
+and down the shoulders: some men, however, divide it by
+means of thongs of dressed leather or otter skin into two equal
+queues, which hang over the ears and are drawn in front of
+the body; but at the present moment, when the nation is afflicted
+by the loss of so many relations killed in war, most
+of them have the hair cut quite short in the neck, and Cameahwait
+has the hair cut short all over his head, this being
+the customary mourning for a deceased kindred.</p>
+
+<p>The dress of the men consists of a robe, a tippet, a shirt,
+long leggings and moccasins. The robe is formed most
+commonly of the skins of antelope, bighorn, or deer, though
+when it can be procured, the buffaloe hide is preferred.
+Sometimes too they are made of beaver, moonax, and small
+wolves, and frequently during the summer of elk skin.
+These are dressed with the hair on, and reach about as low
+as the middle of the leg. They are worn loosely over the
+shoulders, the sides being at pleasure either left open or
+drawn together by the hand, and in cold weather kept close
+by a girdle round the waist. This robe answers the purpose
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_429" id="Pg_429" title="Pg_429">[429]</a></span>of a cloak during the day, and at night is their only
+covering.</p>
+
+<p>The tippet is the most elegant article of Indian dress we
+have ever seen. The neck or collar of it is a strip about
+four or five inches wide, cut from the back of the otter skin,
+the nose and eyes forming one extremity, and the tail another.
+This being dressed with the fur on, they attach to
+one edge of it, from one hundred to two hundred and fifty
+little rolls of ermine skin, beginning at the ear, and proceeding
+towards the tail. These ermine skins are the same
+kind of narrow strips from the back of that animal, which
+are sewed round a small cord of twisted silkgrass thick enough
+to make the skin taper towards the tail which hangs from the
+end, and are generally about the size of a large quill. These
+are tied at the head into little bundles, of two, three or more
+according to the caprice of the wearer, and then suspended
+from the collar, and a broad fringe of ermine skin is fixed
+so as to cover the parts where they unite, which might have
+a coarse appearance. Little tassels of fringe of the same
+materials are also fastened to the extremities of the tail, so
+as to show its black colour to greater advantage. The centre
+of the collar is further ornamented with the shells of the
+pearl oyster. Thus adorned, the collar is worn close round
+the neck, and the little rolls fall down over the shoulders
+nearly to the waist, so as to form a sort of short cloak,
+which has a very handsome appearance. These tippets are
+very highly esteemed, and are given or disposed of on important
+occasions only. The ermine is the fur known to the
+northwest traders by the name of the white weasel, but is
+the genuine ermine; and by encouraging the Indians to
+take them, might no doubt be rendered a valuable branch
+of trade. These animals must be very abundant, for the
+tippets are in great numbers, and the construction of each
+requires at least one hundred skins.</p>
+
+<p>The shirt is a covering of dressed skin without the hair,
+and formed of the hide of the antelope, deer, bighorn, or
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_430" id="Pg_430" title="Pg_430">[430]</a></span>elk, though the last is more rarely used than any other
+for this purpose. It fits the body loosely, and reaches half
+way down the thigh. The aperture at the top is wide
+enough to admit the head, and has no collar, but is either
+left square, or most frequently terminates in the tail of the
+animal, which is left entire, so as to fold outwards, though
+sometimes the edges are cut into a fringe, and ornamented
+with quills of the porcupine. The seams of the shirt are
+on the sides, and are richly fringed and adorned with porcupine
+quills, till within five or six inches of the sleeve,
+where it is left open, as is also the under side of the sleeve
+from the shoulder to the elbow, where it fits closely round
+the arm as low as the wrist, and has no fringe like the
+sides, and the under part of the sleeve above the elbow. It
+is kept up by wide shoulder straps, on which the manufacturer
+displays his taste by the variety of figures wrought
+with porcupine quills of different colours, and sometimes
+by beads when they can be obtained. The lower end of the
+shirt retains the natural shape of the fore legs and neck of
+the skin, with the addition of a slight fringe; the hair too
+is left on the tail and near the hoofs, part of which last is
+retained and split into a fringe.</p>
+
+<p>The leggings are generally made of antelope skins, dressed
+without the hair, and with the legs, tail and neck hanging
+to them. Each legging is formed of a skin nearly entire,
+and reaches from the ancle to the upper part of the
+thigh, and the legs of the skin are tucked before and behind
+under a girdle round the waist. It fits closely to the leg,
+the tail being worn upwards, and the neck highly ornamented
+with fringe and porcupine quills, drags on the ground
+behind the heels. As the legs of the animal are tied round
+the girdle, the wide part of the skin is drawn so high as to
+conceal the parts usually kept from view, in which respect
+their dress is much more decent than that of any nation of
+Indians on the Missouri. The seams of the leggings down
+the sides, are also fringed and ornamented, and occasionally
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_431" id="Pg_431" title="Pg_431">[431]</a></span>decorated with tufts of hair taken from enemies whom they
+have slain. In making all these dresses, their only thread
+is the sinew taken from the backs and loins of deer, elk, buffaloe,
+or any other animal.</p>
+
+<p>The moccasin is of the deer, elk, or buffaloe skin, dressed
+without the hair, though in winter they use the buffaloe
+skin with the hairy side inward, as do most of the Indians
+who inhabit the buffaloe country. Like the Mandan
+moccasin, it is made with a single seam on the outer edge,
+and sewed up behind, a hole being left at the instep to admit
+the foot. It is variously ornamented with figures wrought
+with porcupine quills, and sometimes the young men most
+fond of dress, cover it with the skin of a polecat, and trail
+at their heels the tail of the animal.</p>
+
+<p>The dress of the women consists of the same articles as
+that of their husbands. The robe though smaller is worn
+in the same way: the moccasins are precisely similar. The
+shirt or chemise reaches half way down the leg, is in the
+same form, except that there is no shoulder-strap, the seam
+coming quite up to the shoulder; though for women who
+give suck both sides are open, almost down to the waist. It
+is also ornamented in the same way with the addition of little
+patches of red cloth, edged round with beads at the skirts.
+The chief ornament is over the breast, where there are curious
+figures made with the usual luxury of porcupine quills.
+Like the men they have a girdle round the waist, and when
+either sex wishes to disengage the arm, it is drawn up
+through the hole near the shoulder, and the lower part of
+the sleeve thrown behind the body.</p>
+
+<p>Children alone wear beads round their necks; grown
+persons of both sexes prefer them suspended in little bunches
+from the ear, and sometimes intermixed with triangular
+pieces of the shell of the pearl oyster. Sometimes the men
+tie them in the same way to the hair of the forepart of the
+head, and increase the beauty of it by adding the wings and
+tails of birds, and particularly the feathers of the great eagle
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_432" id="Pg_432" title="Pg_432">[432]</a></span>or calumet bird, of which they are extremely fond. The collars
+are formed either of sea shells procured from their relations
+to the southwest, or of the sweet-scented grass which
+grows in the neighbourhood, and which they twist or plait
+together, to the thickness of a man's finger, and then cover
+with porcupine quills of various colours. The first of these
+is worn indiscriminately by both sexes, the second principally
+confined to the men, while a string of elk's tusks is a
+collar almost peculiar to the women and children. Another
+collar worn by the men is a string of round bones like the
+joints of a fish's back, but the collar most preferred, because
+most honourable, is one of the claws of the brown bear. To
+kill one of these animals is as distinguished an achievement
+as to have put to death an enemy, and in fact with their weapons
+is a more dangerous trial of courage. These claws are
+suspended on a thong of dressed leather, and being ornamented
+with beads, are worn round the neck by the warriors
+with great pride. The men also frequently wear the skin of
+a fox, or a strip of otter skin round the head in the form of
+a bandeau.</p>
+
+<p>In short, the dress of the Shoshonees is as convenient
+and decent as that of any Indians we have seen.</p>
+
+<p>They have many more children than might have been
+expected, considering their precarious means of support
+and their wandering life. This inconvenience is however
+balanced by the wonderful facility with which their females
+undergo the operations of child-birth. In the most advanced
+state of pregnancy they continue their usual occupations,
+which are scarcely interrupted longer than the mere time of
+bringing the child into the world.</p>
+
+<p>The old men are few in number and do not appear to be
+treated with much tenderness or respect.</p>
+
+<p>The tobacco used by the Shoshonees is not cultivated
+among them, but obtained from the Indians of the Rocky
+mountains, and from some of the bands of their own nation
+who live south of them; it is the same plant which is in use
+among the Minnetarees, Mandans, and Ricaras.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_433" id="Pg_433" title="Pg_433">[433]</a></span>Their chief intercourse with other nations seems to consist
+in their association with other Snake Indians, and with
+the Flatheads when they go eastward to hunt buffaloe, and
+in the occasional visits made by the Flatheads to the waters
+of the Columbia for the purpose of fishing. Their intercourse
+with the Spaniards is much more rare, and it furnishes
+them with a few articles, such as mules, and some
+bridles, and other ornaments for horses, which, as well as
+some of their kitchen utensils, are also furnished by the
+bands of Snake Indians from the Yellowstone. The pearl
+ornaments which they esteem so highly come from other
+bands, whom they represent as their friends and relations,
+living to the southwest beyond the barren plains on the
+other side of the mountains: these relations they say inhabit
+a good country, abounding with elk, deer, bear, and antelope,
+where horses and mules are much more abundant than
+they are here, or to use their own expression, as numerous
+as the grass of the plains.</p>
+
+<p>The names of the Indians varies in the course of their
+life: originally given in childhood, from the mere necessity
+of distinguishing objects, or from some accidental resemblance
+to external objects, the young warrior is impatient to
+change it by some achievement of his own. Any important
+event, the stealing of horses, the scalping an enemy, or killing
+a brown bear, entitles him at once to a new name which
+he then selects for himself, and it is confirmed by the nation.
+Sometimes the two names subsist together: thus, the chief
+Cameahwait, which means, "one who never walks," has the
+war name of Tooettecone, or "black gun," which he acquired
+when he first signalized himself. As each new action
+gives a warrior a right to change his name, many of
+them have had several in the course of their lives. To give
+to a friend his own name is an act of high courtesy, and a
+pledge like that of pulling off the moccasin of sincerity and
+hospitality. The chief in this way gave his name to captain
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_434" id="Pg_434" title="Pg_434">[434]</a></span>Clarke when he first arrived, and he was afterwards
+known among the Shoshonees by the name of Cameahwait.</p>
+
+<p>The diseases incident to this state of life may be supposed
+to be few, and chiefly the result of accidents. We
+were particularly anxious to ascertain whether they had any
+knowledge of the venereal disorder. After inquiring by
+means of the interpreter and his wife, we learnt that they
+sometimes suffered from it, and that they most usually die
+with it; nor could we discover what was their remedy. It is
+possible that this disease may have reached them in their
+circuitous communications with the whites through the intermediate
+Indians; but the situation of the Shoshonees is
+so insulated, that it is not probable that it could have reached
+them in that way, and the existence of such a disorder
+among the Rocky mountains seems rather a proof of its
+being aboriginal.</p>
+
+
+<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p>
+
+
+<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_435" id="Pg_435" title="Pg_435">[435]</a></span></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<!-- ROUTE MAP -->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" >
+     <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173"
+        alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" />
+   </a>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The party, after procuring horses from the Shoshonees, proceed on their journey
+through the mountains&mdash;The difficulties and dangers of the route&mdash;A council
+held with another band of the Shoshonees, of whom some account is
+given&mdash;They are reduced to the necessity of killing their horses for food&mdash;Captain
+Clarke with a small party precedes the main body in quest of food,
+and is hospitably received by the Pierced-nose Indians&mdash;Arrival of the main
+body amongst this tribe, with whom a council is held&mdash;They resolve to perform
+the remainder of their journey in canoes&mdash;Sickness of the party&mdash;They
+descend the Kooskooskee to its junction with Lewis river, after passing several
+dangerous rapids&mdash;Short description of the manners and dress of the
+Pierced-nose Indians.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>August 27. We were now occupied in determining our
+route and procuring horses from the Indians. The old guide
+who had been sent on by captain Clarke, now confirmed, by
+means of our interpreter, what he had already asserted, of
+a road up Berry creek which would lead to Indian establishments
+on another branch of the Columbia: his reports however
+were contradicted by all the Shoshonees. This representation
+we ascribed to a wish on their part to keep us with
+them during the winter, as well for the protection we might
+afford against their enemies, as for the purpose of consuming
+our merchandise amongst them; and as the old man promised
+to conduct us himself, that route seemed to be the most eligible.
+We were able to procure some horses, though not
+enough for all our purposes. This traffic, and our inquiries and
+councils with the Indians, consumed the remainder of the day.</p>
+
+<p>August 28. The purchase of horses was resumed, and our
+stock raised to twenty-two. Having now crossed more than
+once the country which separates the head waters of the
+Missouri from those of the Columbia, we can designate the
+easiest and most expeditious route for a portage; it is as
+follows:</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_436" id="Pg_436" title="Pg_436">[436]</a></span>From the forks of the river north 60&deg; west, five miles
+to the point of a hill on the right: then south 80&deg; west, ten
+miles to a spot where the creek is ten miles wide, and the
+highlands approach within two hundred yards; southwest
+five miles to a narrow part of the bottom; then turning
+south 70&deg; west, two miles to a creek on the right: thence
+south 80&deg; west, three miles to a rocky point opposite to a
+thicket of pines on the left; from that place west, three
+miles to the gap where is the fountain of the Missouri: on
+leaving this fountain south 80&deg; west, six miles across the
+dividing ridge, to a run from the right passing several small
+streams north 80&deg; west, four miles over hilly ground to the
+east fork of Lewis's river, which is here forty yards wide.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 29. Captain Clarke joined us this morning,
+and we continued our bargains for horses. The late misfortunes
+of the Shoshonees make the price higher than
+common, so that one horse cost a pistol, one hundred balls,
+some powder and a knife; another was changed for a musket,
+and in this way we obtained twenty-nine. The horses
+themselves are young and vigorous, but they are very poor,
+and most of them have sore backs in consequence of the
+roughness of the Shoshonee saddle. We are therefore
+afraid of loading them too heavily and are anxious to obtain
+one at least for each man to carry the baggage, or the man
+himself, or in the last resource to serve as food; but with
+all our exertions we could not provide all our men with
+horses. We have, however, been fortunate in obtaining for
+the last three days a sufficient supply of flesh, our hunters
+having killed two or three deer every day.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 30. The weather was fine, and having now made
+all our purchases, we loaded our horses, and prepared to
+start. The greater part of the band who had delayed their
+journey on our account, were also ready to depart. We
+then took our leave of the Shoshonees, who set out on their
+visit to the Missouri at the same time that we accompanied
+by the old guide, his four sons, and another Indian, began
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_437" id="Pg_437" title="Pg_437">[437]</a></span>the descent of the river, along the same road which captain
+Clarke had previously pursued. After riding twelve miles
+we encamped on the south bank of the river, and as the
+hunters had brought in three deer early in the morning we
+did not feel the want of provisions.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 31. At sunrise we resumed our journey, and
+halted for three hours on Salmon creek to let the horses
+graze. We then proceeded to the stream called Berry
+creek eighteen miles from the camp of last night: as we
+passed along, the vallies and prairies were on fire in several
+places, in order to collect the bands of the Shoshonees and
+the Flatheads, for their journey to the Missouri. The weather
+was warm and sultry, but the only inconvenience which
+we apprehend is a dearth of food, of which we had to-day
+an abundance, having procured a deer, a goose, one duck
+and a prairie fowl. On reaching Tower creek we left the
+former track of captain Clarke, and began to explore the
+new route, which is our last hope of getting out of the mountains.
+For four miles the road, which is tolerably plain,
+led us along Berry creek to some old Indian lodges where
+we encamped for the night; the next day,</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, September 1, 1805, we followed the same road
+which here left the creek and turned to the northwest
+across the hills. During all day we were riding over these
+hills, from which are many drains and small streams running
+into the river to the left, and at the distance of eighteen
+miles, came to a large creek called Fish creek emptying
+into the Columbia which is about six miles from us. It
+had rained in the course of the day, and commenced raining
+again towards evening. We therefore determined not
+to leave the low grounds to night, and after going up Fish
+creek four miles formed our encampment. The country
+over which we passed is well watered, but poor and rugged
+or stony, except the bottoms of Fish creek, and even these
+are narrow. Two men were sent to purchase fish of the
+Indians at the mouth of the creek, and with the dried fish
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_438" id="Pg_438" title="Pg_438">[438]</a></span>which they obtained, and a deer and a few salmon killed
+by the party, we were still well supplied. Two bear also
+were wounded but we could procure neither of them.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 2. This morning all the Indians left us, except
+the old guide, who now conducted us up Fish creek: at
+one mile and a half we passed a branch of the river coming
+in through a low ground covered with pine on the left, and
+two and a half miles further is a second branch from the
+right; after continuing our route along the hills covered
+with pine, and a low ground of the same growth, we arrived
+at the distance of three and a half miles at the forks of the
+creek. The road which we were following now turned up
+the east side of these forks, and as our guide informed us led
+to the Missouri. We were therefore left without any track;
+but as no time was to be lost we began to cut our road up
+the west branch of the creek. This we effected with much
+difficulty; the thickets of trees and brush through which we
+were obliged to cut our way required great labour; the road
+itself was over the steep and rocky sides of the hills where
+the horses could not move without danger of slipping down,
+while their feet were bruised by the rocks and stumps of
+trees. Accustomed as these animals were to this kind of
+life they suffered severely, several of them fell to some distance
+down the sides of the hills, some turned over with the
+baggage, one was crippled, and two gave out exhausted
+with fatigue. After crossing the creek several times we
+at last made five miles, with great fatigue and labour, and
+encamped on the left side of the creek in a small stony low
+ground. It was not, however, till after dark that the whole
+party was collected, and then, as it rained, and we killed
+nothing, we passed an uncomfortable night. The party had
+been too busily occupied with the horses to make any hunting
+excursion, and though as we came along Fish creek we
+saw many beaver dams we saw none of the animals themselves.
+In the morning,</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_439" id="Pg_439" title="Pg_439">[439]</a></span>Tuesday 3, the horses were very stiff and weary. We sent
+back two men for the load of the horse which had been crippled
+yesterday, and which we had been forced to leave two
+miles behind. On their return, we set out at eight o'clock, and
+proceeded up the creek, making a passage through the brush
+and timber along its borders. The country is generally supplied
+with pine, and in the low grounds is a great abundance
+of fir trees, and under bushes. The mountains are high and
+rugged, and those to the east of us, covered with snow.
+With all our precautions the horses were very much injured
+in passing over the ridges and steep points of the hills, and
+to add to the difficulty, at the distance of eleven miles, the
+high mountains closed the creek, so that we were obliged
+to leave the creek to the right, and cross the mountain abruptly.
+The ascent was here so steep that several of the
+horses slipped and hurt themselves, but at last we succeeded
+in crossing the mountain, and encamped on a small branch
+of Fish creek. We had now made fourteen miles in a direction
+nearly north from the river; but this distance,
+though short, was very fatiguing, and rendered still more
+disagreeable by the rain which began at three o'clock.
+At dusk it commenced snowing, and continued till the ground
+was covered to the depth of two inches, when it changed
+into a sleet. We here met with a serious misfortune the
+last of our thermometers being broken by accident. After
+making a scanty supper on a little corn and a few pheasants
+killed in the course of the day, we laid down to sleep,
+and next morning,</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 4, found every thing frozen, and the ground
+covered with snow. We were obliged to wait some time
+in order to thaw the covers of the baggage, after which we
+began our journey at eight o'clock. We crossed a high
+mountain which joins the dividing ridge between the waters
+of the creek we had been ascending, and those running
+to the north and west. We had not gone more than six
+miles over the snow, when we reached the head of a stream
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_440" id="Pg_440" title="Pg_440">[440]</a></span>from the right, which directed its course more to the westward.
+We descended the steep sides of the hills along its
+border, and at the distance of three miles found a small
+branch coming in from the eastward. We saw several of
+the argalia, but they were too shy to be killed, and we
+therefore made a dinner from a deer shot by one of the hunters.
+Then we pursued the course of the stream for three
+miles, till it emptied itself into a river from the east. In
+the wide valley at their junction, we discovered a large encampment
+of Indians: when we had reached them and alighted
+from our horses, we were received with great cordiality.
+A council was immediately assembled, white robes
+were thrown over our soldiers, and the pipe of peace introduced.
+After this ceremony, as it was too late to go any
+further, we encamped, and continued smoking and conversing
+with the chiefs till a late hour. The next morning,</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 5, we assembled the chiefs and warriors, and
+informed them who we were, and the purpose for which we
+visited their country. All this was however conveyed to
+them through so many different languages, that it was not
+comprehended without difficulty. We therefore proceeded
+to the more intelligible language of presents, and made four
+chiefs by giving a medal and a small quantity of tobacco to
+each. We received in turn from the principal chief, a present
+consisting of the skins of a braro, an otter, and two antelopes,
+and were treated by the women to some dried roots
+and berries. We then began to traffic for horses, and succeeded
+in exchanging seven, purchasing eleven, for which
+we gave a few articles of merchandise.</p>
+
+<p>This encampment consists of thirty-three tents, in which
+were about four hundred souls, among whom eighty were
+men. They are called Ootlashoots, and represent themselves
+as one band of a nation called Tushepaws, a numerous
+people of four hundred and fifty tents, residing
+on the heads of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, and
+some of them lower down the latter river. In person these
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_441" id="Pg_441" title="Pg_441">[441]</a></span>Indians are stout, and their complexion lighter than that
+common among Indians. The hair of the men is worn in
+queues of otter skin, falling in front over the shoulders.
+A shirt of dressed skin covers the body to the knee, and on
+this is worn occasionally a robe. To these were added
+leggings and moccasins. The women suffer their hair to
+fall in disorder over the face and shoulders, and their
+chief article of covering is a long shirt of skin, reaching
+down to the ancles, and tied round the waist. In other respects,
+as also in the few ornaments which they possess, their
+appearance is similar to that of the Shoshonees; there is
+however a difference between the language of these people
+which is still farther increased by the very extraordinary
+pronunciation of the Ootlashoots. Their words have all a
+remarkably guttural sound, and there is nothing which
+seems to represent the tone of their speaking more exactly
+than the clucking of a fowl, or the noise of a parrot. This
+peculiarity renders their voices scarcely audible, except at
+a short distance, and when many of them are talking, forms
+a strange confusion of sounds. The common conversation we
+overheard, consisted of low guttural sounds occasionally
+broken by a loud word or two, after which it would relapse
+and scarcely be distinguished. They seem kind and friendly
+and willingly shared with us berries and roots, which formed
+their only stock of provisions. Their only wealth is their
+horses, which are very fine, and so numerous that this party
+had with them at least five hundred.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 6. We continued this morning with the Ootlashoots,
+from whom we purchased two more horses, and procured
+a vocabulary of their language. The Ootlashoots set
+off about two o'clock to join the different bands who were
+collecting at the three forks of the Missouri. We ourselves
+proceeded at the same time, and taking a direction N. 30 W.
+crossed within the distance of one mile and a half, a small
+river from the right, and a creek coming in from the north.
+This river is the main stream, and when it reaches the end
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_442" id="Pg_442" title="Pg_442">[442]</a></span>of the valley, where the mountains close in upon it, is joined
+by the river on which we encamped last evening, as well as
+by the creek just mentioned. To the river thus formed we
+gave the name of captain Clarke, he being the first white
+man who had ever visited its waters. At the end of five
+miles on this course we had crossed the valley, and reached
+the top of a mountain covered with pine; this we descended
+along the steep sides and ravines for a mile and a half, when
+we came to a spot on the river, where the Ootlashoots had
+encamped a few days before. We then followed the course
+of the river, which is from twenty-five to thirty yards wide,
+shallow, stony, and the low grounds on its borders narrow.
+Within the distance of three and a half miles, we crossed it
+several times, and after passing a run on each side, encamped
+on its right bank, after making ten miles during the afternoon.
+The horses were turned out to graze, but those we
+had lately bought were secured and watched, lest they should
+escape, or be stolen by their former owners. Our stock of
+flour was now exhausted, and we had but little corn, and as
+our hunters had killed nothing except two pheasants, our
+supper consisted chiefly of berries.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, 7. The greater part of the day the weather
+was dark and rainy: we continued through the narrow low
+grounds along the river, till at the distance of six miles we
+came to a large creek from the left, after which the bottoms
+widen. Four miles lower is another creek on the same
+side, and the valley now extends from one to three miles,
+the mountains on the left being high and bald, with snow on
+the summits, while the country to the right is open and
+hilly. Four miles beyond this is a creek running from the
+snow-top'd mountains, and several runs on both sides of the
+river. Two miles from this last is another creek on the left.
+The afternoon was now far advanced, but not being able to
+find a fit place to encamp we continued six miles further
+till after dark, when we halted for the night. The river
+here is still shallow and stony, but is increased to the width
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_443" id="Pg_443" title="Pg_443">[443]</a></span>of fifty yards. The valley through which we passed is of a
+poor soil, and its fertility injured by the quantity of stone
+scattered over it. We met two horses which had strayed from
+the Indians and were now quite wild. No fish was to be seen
+in the river, but we obtained a very agreeable supply of two
+deer, two cranes, and two pheasants.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, 8. We set out early: the snow-top'd hills on
+the left approach the river near our camp, but we soon
+reached a valley four or five miles wide, through which we
+followed the course of the river in a direction due north.
+We passed three creeks on the right, and several runs emptying
+themselves into the opposite side of the river. At the
+distance of eleven miles the river turned more towards the
+west: we pursued it for twelve miles, and encamped near a
+large creek coming in from the right, which, from its being
+divided into four different channels, we called Scattering
+creek. The valley continues to be a poor stony land, with
+scarcely any timber, except some pine trees along the waters
+and partially scattered on the hills to the right, which,
+as well as those on the left, have snow on them. The plant
+which forces itself most on our attention is a species of
+prickly pear very common on this part of the river: it grows
+in clusters, in an oval form about the size of a pigeon's egg,
+and its thorns are so strong and bearded, that when it penetrates
+our feet it brings away the pear itself. We saw two
+mares and a colt, which, like the horses seen yesterday,
+seemed to have lost themselves and become wild. Our game
+to-day consisted of two deer, an elk, and a prairie fowl.</p>
+
+<p>Monday, 9. We resumed our journey through the valley,
+and leaving the road on our right crossed the Scattering
+creek, and halted at the distance of twelve miles on a small
+run from the east, where we breakfasted on the remains of
+yesterday's hunt: we here took a meridian altitude, which
+gave the latitude of 46&deg; 41' 38" 9"': we then continued, and at
+the distance of four miles passed over to the left bank of the
+river, where we found a large road through the valley. At
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_444" id="Pg_444" title="Pg_444">[444]</a></span>this place is a handsome stream of very clear water, a hundred
+yards wide with low banks, and a bed formed entirely of
+gravel: it has every appearance of being navigable, but as it
+contains no salmon, we presume there must be some fall below
+which obstructs their passage. Our guide could not inform
+us where this river discharged its waters; he said that
+as far as he knew its course it ran along the mountains to
+the north, and that not far from our present position it was
+joined by another stream nearly as large as itself, which
+rises in the mountains to the east near the Missouri, and
+flows through an extensive valley or open prairie. Through
+this prairie is the great Indian road to the waters of the
+Missouri; and so direct is the route, that in four days' journey
+from this place we might reach the Missouri about
+thirty miles above what we called the Gates of the Rocky
+mountains, or the spot where the valley of that river widens
+into an extensive plain on entering the chain of mountains.
+At ten miles from our camp is a small creek falling in from
+the eastward, five miles below which we halted at a large
+stream which empties itself on the west side of the river.
+It is a fine bold creek of clear water about twenty yards wide,
+and we called it <i>Traveller's-rest</i> creek; for as our guide told
+us that we should here leave the river, we determined to
+remain for the purpose of making celestial observations and
+collecting some food, as the country through which we are
+to pass has no game for a great distance.</p>
+
+<p>The valley of the river through which we have been passing
+is generally a prairie from five to six miles in width,
+and with a cold gravelly white soil. The timber which it
+possesses is almost exclusively pine, chiefly of the long-leafed
+kind, with some spruce, and a species of fir resembling
+the Scotch fir: near the water courses are also seen a
+few narrow-leafed cottonwood trees, and the only underbrush
+is the redwood, honeysuckle, and rosebushes. Our
+game was four deer, three geese, four ducks, and three
+prairie fowls; one of the hunters brought in a red-headed
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_445" id="Pg_445" title="Pg_445">[445]</a></span>woodpecker of the large kind common in the United States,
+but the first of the kind we have seen since leaving the Illinois.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday, 10. The morning being fair all the hunters
+were sent out, and the rest of the party employed in repairing
+their clothes: two of them were sent to the junction of
+the river from the east, along which the Indians go to the
+Missouri: it is about seven miles below Traveller's-rest creek;
+the country at the forks is seven or eight miles wide, level
+and open, but with little timber; its course is to the north,
+and we incline to believe that this is the river which the
+Minnetarees had described to us as running from south to
+north along the west side of the Rocky mountains, not far
+from the sources of Medicine river: there is moreover reason
+to suppose, that after going as far northward as the
+head-waters of that river it turns to the westward and joins
+the Tacootchetessee. Towards evening one of the hunters
+returned with three Indians, whom he had met in his excursion
+up Traveller's-rest creek: as soon as they saw him
+they prepared to attack him with arrows, but he quieted
+them by laying down his gun and advancing towards them,
+and soon persuaded them to come to the camp. Our Shoshonee
+guide could not speak the language of these people,
+but by the universal language of signs and gesticulations,
+which is perfectly intelligible among the Indians, he found
+that these were three Tushepaw Flatheads in pursuit of
+two men, supposed to be Shoshonees, who had stolen twenty-three
+of their horses: we gave them some boiled venison
+and a few presents; such as a fishhook, a steel to strike fire,
+and a little powder; but they seemed better pleased with a
+piece of riband which we tied in the hair of each of them.
+They were however in such haste, lest their horses should
+be carried off, that two of them set off after sunset in quest
+of the robbers: the third however was persuaded to remain
+with us and conduct us to his relations: these he said were
+numerous, and resided on the Columbia in the plain below
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_446" id="Pg_446" title="Pg_446">[446]</a></span>the mountains. From that place he added, the river was
+navigable to the ocean; that some of his relations had been
+there last fall and seen an old white man who resided there
+by himself, and who gave them some handkerchiefs like
+those we have. The distance from this place is five sleeps or
+days' journey. When our hunters had all joined us we found
+our provisions consisted of four deer, a beaver, and three
+grouse.</p>
+
+<p>The observation of to-day gave 46&deg; 48' 28" as the latitude
+of Travellers-rest creek.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 11. Two of our horses having strayed away
+we were detained all the morning before they were caught.
+In the meantime our Tushepaw Indian became impatient
+of the delay, and set out to return home alone. As usual
+we had dispatched four of our best hunters ahead, and as
+we hoped with their aid and our present stock of provisions
+to subsist on the route, we proceeded at three o'clock up the
+right side of the creek, and encamped under some old Indian
+huts at the distance of seven miles. The road was
+plain and good; the valley is however narrower than that
+which we left and bordered by high and rugged hills to the
+right, while the mountains on the left were covered with
+snow. The day was fair and warm, the wind from the
+northwest.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 12. There was a white frost this morning.
+We proceeded at seven o'clock and soon passed a stream falling
+in on the right, near which was an old Indian camp with
+a bath or sweating-house covered with earth. At two miles
+distance we ascended a high, and thence continued through
+a hilly and thickly timbered country for nine miles, when we
+came to the forks of the creek, where the road branches
+up each fork. We followed the western route, and finding
+that the creek made a considerable bend at the distance of
+four miles, crossed a high mountain in order to avoid the
+circuit. The road had been very bad during the first part
+of the day, but the passage of the mountain, which was
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_447" id="Pg_447" title="Pg_447">[447]</a></span>eight miles across, was very painful to the horses, as we
+were obliged to go over steep stony sides of hills and along
+the hollows and ravines, rendered more <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'disagreeble'.">disagreeable</ins> by the
+fallen timber, chiefly pine, spruce pine and fir. We at
+length reached the creek, having made twenty-three miles
+of a route so difficult that some of the party did not join us
+before ten o'clock. We found the account of the scantiness
+of game but too true, as we were not able to procure any
+thing during the whole of yesterday, and to-day we killed
+only a single pheasant. Along the road we observed many
+of the pine trees pealed off, which is done by the Indians to
+procure the inner bark for food in the spring.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 13. Two of the horses strayed away during the
+night, and one of them being captain Lewis's, he remained
+with four men to search for them while we proceeded up
+the creek: at the distance of two miles we came to several
+springs issuing from large rocks of a coarse hard grit,
+and nearly boiling hot. Those seem to be much frequented
+as there are several paths made by elk, deer and other animals,
+and near one of the springs a hole or Indian bath, and
+roads leading in different directions. These embarrassed
+our guide, who mistaking the road took us three miles out
+of the proper course over an exceedingly bad route. We
+then fell into the right road, and proceeded on very well,
+when having made five miles we stopped to refresh the horses.
+Captain Lewis here joined us, but not having been
+able to find his horse two men were sent back to continue
+the search. We then proceeded along the same kind of
+country which we passed yesterday, and after crossing a
+mountain and leaving the sources of the Travellers-rest
+creek on the left, reached after five miles riding a small
+creek which also came in from the left hand, passing
+through open glades, some of which were half a mile wide.
+The road which had been as usual rugged and stony, became
+firm, plain and level after quitting the head of Travellers-rest.
+We followed the course of this new creek
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_448" id="Pg_448" title="Pg_448">[448]</a></span>for two miles and encamped at a spot where the mountains
+close on each side. Other mountains covered with snow
+are in view to the southeast and southwest. We were
+somewhat more fortunate to-day in killing a deer and several
+pheasants which were of the common species, except
+that the tail was black.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 14. The day was very cloudy with rain and hail
+in the vallies, while on the top of the mountains some snow
+fell. We proceeded early, and continuing along the right
+side of Glade creek crossed a high mountain, and at the distance
+of six miles reached the place where it is joined by
+another branch of equal size from the right. Near the
+forks the Tushepaws have had an encampment which is
+but recently abandoned, for the grass is entirely destroyed
+by horses, and two fish weirs across the creek are still remaining;
+no fish were however to be seen. We here passed
+over to the left side of the creek and began the ascent of a
+very high and steep mountain nine miles across. On reaching
+the other side we found a large branch from the left,
+which seems to rise in the snowy mountains to the south
+and southeast. We continued along the creek two miles
+further, when night coming on we encamped opposite a
+small island at the mouth of a branch on the right side of
+the river. The mountains which we crossed to-day were
+much more difficult than those of yesterday; the last was
+particularly fatiguing, being steep and stony, broken by fallen
+timber, and thickly overgrown by pine, spruce, fir, haematack
+and tamarac. Although we had made only seventeen
+miles we were all very weary. The whole stock of
+animal food was now exhausted, and we therefore killed a
+colt, on which we made a hearty supper. From this incident
+we called the last creek we had passed from the south
+Colt-killed creek. The river itself is eighty yards wide,
+with a swift current, and a stony channel. Its Indian name
+is Kooskooskee.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_449" id="Pg_449" title="Pg_449">[449]</a></span>Sunday 15. At an early hour we proceeded along the
+right side of the Kooskooskee over steep rocky points of
+land, till at the distance of four miles we reached an old Indian
+fishing place: the road here turned to the right of
+the water, and began to ascend a mountain: but the fire and
+wind had prostrated or dried almost all the timber on the
+south side, and the ascents were so steep that we were forced
+to wind in every direction round the high knobs which constantly
+impeded our progress. Several of the horses lost
+their foot-hold and slipped: one of them which was loaded
+with a desk and small trunk, rolled over and over for forty
+yards, till his fall was stopped by a tree. The desk was
+broken; but the poor animal escaped without much injury.
+After clambering in this way for four miles, we came to a
+high snowy part of the mountain where was a spring of
+water, at which we halted two hours to refresh our horses.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving the spring the road continued as bad as it was
+below, and the timber more abundant. At four miles we
+reached the top of the mountain, and foreseeing no chance
+of meeting with water, we encamped on the northern side
+of the mountain, near an old bank of snow, three feet deep.
+Some of this we melted, and supped on the remains of the
+colt killed yesterday. Our only game to-day was two pheasants,
+and the horses on which we calculated as a last resource
+begin to fail us, for two of them were so poor, and
+worn out with fatigue, that we were obliged to leave them
+behind. All around us are high rugged mountains, among
+which is a lofty range from southeast to northwest, whose
+tops are without timber, and in some places covered with
+snow. The night was cloudy and very cold, and three hours
+before daybreak,</p>
+
+<p>Monday 16, it began to snow, and continued all day,
+so that by evening it was six or eight inches deep. This
+covered the track so completely, that we were obliged
+constantly to halt and examine, lest we should lose the route.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_450" id="Pg_450" title="Pg_450">[450]</a></span>In many places we had nothing to guide us except the branches
+of the trees which, being low, have been rubbed by the
+burdens of the Indian horses. The road was, like that of
+yesterday, along steep hill sides, obstructed with fallen timber,
+and a growth of eight different species of pine, so thickly
+strewed that the snow falls from them as we pass, and
+keeps us continually wet to the skin, and so cold, that we
+are anxious lest our feet should be frozen, as we have
+only thin moccasins to defend them.</p>
+
+<p>At noon we halted to let the horses feed on some long
+grass on the south side of the mountains, and endeavoured
+by making fires to keep ourselves warm. As soon as the
+horses were refreshed, captain Clarke went ahead with one
+man, and at the distance of six miles reached a stream from
+the right, and prepared fires by the time of our arrival at
+dusk. We here encamped in a piece of low ground, thickly
+timbered, but scarcely large enough to permit us to lie
+level. We had now made thirteen miles. We were all very
+wet, cold, and hungry: but although before setting out this
+morning, we had seen four deer, yet we could not procure
+any of them, and were obliged to kill a second colt for our
+supper.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 17. Our horses became so much scattered during
+the night, that we were detained till one o'clock before
+they were all collected. We then continued our route
+over high rough knobs, and several drains and springs,
+and along a ridge of country separating the waters of two
+small rivers. The road was still difficult, and several of
+the horses fell and injured themselves very much, so that
+we were unable to advance more than ten miles to a small
+stream, on which we encamped.</p>
+
+<p>We had killed a few pheasants, but these being insufficient
+for our subsistence, we killed another of the colts.
+This want of provisions, and the extreme fatigue to which
+we were subjected, and the dreary prospects before us, began
+to dispirit the men. It was therefore agreed that captain
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_451" id="Pg_451" title="Pg_451">[451]</a></span>Clarke should go on ahead with six hunters, and
+endeavour to kill something for the support of the party. He
+therefore set out,</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 18, early in the morning in hopes of finding
+a level country from which he might send back some game.
+His route lay S. 85&deg; W., along the same high dividing ridge,
+and the road was still very bad; but he moved on rapidly, and
+at the distance of twenty miles was rejoiced on discovering
+far off an extensive plain towards the west and southwest,
+bounded by a high mountain. He halted an hour to let
+the horses eat a little grass on the hill sides, and then
+went on twelve and a half miles till he reached a bold
+creek, running to the left, on which he encamped. To
+this stream he gave the very appropriate name of Hungry
+creek; for having procured no game, they had nothing
+to eat.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime we were detained till after eight
+o'clock by the loss of one of our horses which had strayed
+away and could not be found. We then proceeded, but
+having soon finished the remainder of the colt killed yesterday,
+felt the want of provisions, which was more sensible
+from our meeting with no water, till towards nightfall
+we found some in a ravine among the hills. By pushing on
+our horses almost to their utmost strength, we made eighteen
+miles.</p>
+
+<p>We then melted some snow, and supped on a little portable
+soup, a few canisters of which, with about twenty
+weight of bears oil, are our only remaining means
+of subsistence. Our guns are scarcely of any service, for
+there is no living creature in these mountains, except a
+few small pheasants, a small species of gray squirrel, and
+a blue bird of the vulture kind about the size of a turtle dove
+or jay, and even these are difficult to shoot.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 19. Captain Clarke proceeded up the creek,
+along which the road was more steep and stony than any he
+had yet passed, At six miles distance he reached a small
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_452" id="Pg_452" title="Pg_452">[452]</a></span>plain, in which he fortunately found a horse, on which he
+breakfasted, and hung the rest on a tree for the party in
+the rear. Two miles beyond this he left the creek, and
+crossed three high mountains, rendered almost impassable
+from the steepness of the ascent and the quantity of fallen
+timber. After clambering over these ridges and mountains,
+and passing the heads of some branches of Hungry creek,
+he came to a large creek running westward. This he followed
+for four miles, then turned to the right down the
+mountain, till he came to a small creek to the left. Here
+he halted, having made twenty-two miles on his course,
+south eighty degrees west, though the winding route over
+the mountains almost doubled the distance. On descending
+the last mountain, the heat became much more sensible
+after the extreme cold he had experienced for several
+days past. Besides the breakfast in the morning, two
+pheasants were their only food during the day, and the
+only kinds of birds they saw were the blue jay, a small
+white-headed hawk, a larger hawk, crows, and ravens.</p>
+
+<p>We followed soon after sunrise. At six miles the ridge
+terminated and we had before us the cheering prospect of
+the large plain to the southwest. On leaving the ridge we
+again ascended and went down several mountains, and six
+miles further came to Hungry creek where it was fifteen
+yards wide, and received the waters of a branch from the
+north. We went up it on a course nearly due west, and at
+three miles crossed a second branch flowing from the same
+quarter. The country is thickly covered with pine timber,
+of which we have enumerated eight distinct species. Three
+miles beyond this last branch of Hungry creek we encamped,
+after a fatiguing route of eighteen miles. The
+road along the creek is a narrow rocky path near the borders
+of very high precipices, from which a fall seems almost
+inevitable destruction. One of our horses slipped and
+rolling over with his load down the hill side, which was
+nearly perpendicular and strewed with large irregular
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_453" id="Pg_453" title="Pg_453">[453]</a></span>rocks, nearly a hundred yards, and did not stop till he fell
+into the creek: we all expected he was killed, but to our
+astonishment, on taking off his load, he rose, and seemed
+but little injured, and in twenty minutes proceeded with his
+load. Having no other provision we took some portable
+soup, our only refreshment during the day. This abstinence,
+joined with fatigue, has a visible effect on our health.
+The men are growing weak and losing their flesh very fast:
+several are afflicted with the dysentery, and eruptions of
+the skin are very common.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 20. Captain Clarke went on through a country
+as rugged as usual, till on passing a low mountain he
+came at the distance of four miles to the forks of a large
+creek. Down this he kept on a course south 60&deg; west for
+two miles, then turning to the right, continued over a dividing
+ridge where were the heads of several little streams,
+and at twelve miles distance descended the last of the rocky
+mountains and reached the level country. A beautiful
+open plain partially supplied with pine now presented itself.
+He continued for five miles when he discovered three
+Indian boys, who, on observing the party, ran off and hid
+themselves in the grass. Captain Clarke immediately
+alighted, and giving his horse and gun to one of the men
+went after the boys. He soon relieved their apprehensions
+and sent them forward to the village about a mile off with
+presents of small pieces of riband. Soon after the boys
+had reached home, a man came out to meet the party, with
+great caution, but he conducted them to a large tent in the
+village, and all the inhabitants gathered round to view with
+a mixture of fear and pleasure these wonderful strangers.
+The conductor now informed captain Clarke by signs, that
+the spacious tent was the residence of the great chief, who
+had set out three days ago with all the warriors to attack
+some of their enemies towards the southwest; that he would
+not return before fifteen or eighteen days, and that in the
+meantime there were only a few men left to guard the women
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_454" id="Pg_454" title="Pg_454">[454]</a></span>and children. They now set before them a small
+piece of buffaloe meat, some dried salmon, berries, and several
+kinds of roots. Among these last is one which is
+round and much like an onion in appearance and sweet to
+the taste: it is called quamash, and is eaten either in its
+natural state, or boiled into a kind of soup or made into a
+cake, which is then called pasheco. After the long abstinence
+this was a sumptuous treat; we returned the kindness
+of the people by a few small presents, and then went on in
+company with one of the chiefs to a second village in the
+same plain, at the distance of two miles. Here the party
+was treated with great kindness and passed the night. The
+hunters were sent out, but though they saw some tracks
+of deer were not able to procure any thing.</p>
+
+<p>We were detained till ten o'clock before we could collect
+our scattered horses; we then proceeded for two miles,
+when to our great joy we found the horse which captain
+Clarke had killed, and a note apprising us of his intention of
+going to the plains towards the southwest, and collect provisions
+by the time we reached him. At one o'clock we
+halted on a small stream, and made a hearty meal of horse
+flesh. On examination it now appeared that one of the
+horses was missing, and the man in whose charge he had
+been, was directed to return and search for him. He came
+back in about two hours without having been able to find
+the horse; but as the load was too valuable to be lost, two
+of the best woodsmen were directed to continue the
+search while we proceeded. Our general course was south
+25&deg; west through a thick forest of large pine, which has
+fallen in many places, and very much obstructs the road.
+After making about fifteen miles we encamped on a ridge
+where we could find but little grass and no water. We succeeded,
+however, in procuring a little from a distance, and
+supped on the remainder of the horse.</p>
+
+<p>On descending the heights of the mountains the soil
+becomes gradually more fertile, and the land through which
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_455" id="Pg_455" title="Pg_455">[455]</a></span>we passed this evening, is of an excellent quality. It has
+a dark gray soil, though very broken, and with large masses
+of gray free-stone above the ground in many places.
+Among the vegetable productions we distinguished the
+alder, honeysuckle, and huckleberry, common in the
+United States, and a species of honeysuckle, known only
+westward of the Rocky mountains, which rises to the
+height of about four feet, and bears a white berry. There
+is also a plant resembling the chokecherry, which grows
+in thick clumps eight or ten feet high, and bears a black
+berry with a single stone of a sweetish taste. The arbor
+vit&aelig; too, is very common, and grows to a great size, being
+from two to six feet in diameter.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 21. The free use of food, to which he had not
+been accustomed, made captain Clarke very sick both
+yesterday evening and during the whole of to-day. He
+therefore sent out all the hunters and remained himself at the
+village, as well on account of his sickness as for the purpose
+of avoiding suspicion and collecting information from
+the Indians as to the route.</p>
+
+<p>The two villages consist of about thirty double tents,
+and the inhabitants call themselves Chopunnish or Pierced-nose.
+The chief drew a chart of the river, and explained,
+that a greater chief than himself, who governed this village
+and was called the Twisted-hair, was now fishing at the
+distance of half a day's ride down the river: his chart made
+the Kooskooskee fork a little below his camp, a second fork
+below, still further on a large branch flowed in on each
+side, below which the river passed the mountains: here was
+a great fall of water, near which lived white people, from
+whom were procured the white beads and brass ornaments
+worn by the women.</p>
+
+<p>A chief of another band made a visit this morning, and
+smoked with captain Clarke. The hunters returned without
+having been able to kill any thing; captain Clarke purchased
+as much dried salmon, roots, and berries as he could,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_456" id="Pg_456" title="Pg_456">[456]</a></span>with the few articles he chanced to have in his pockets, and
+having sent them by one of the men and a hired Indian back to
+captain Lewis, he went on towards the camp of the Twisted-hair.
+It was four o'clock before he set out, and the night
+soon came on; but having met an Indian coming from the
+river, they engaged him by a present of a neckcloth, to guide
+them to the Twisted-hair's camp. For twelve miles they
+proceeded through the plain before they reached the river
+hills, which are very high and steep. The whole valley from
+these hills to the Rocky mountain is a beautiful level country,
+with a rich soil covered with grass: there is, however,
+but little timber, and the ground is badly watered: the plain
+is so much lower than the surrounding hills, or so much
+sheltered by them, that the weather is quite warm, while
+the cold of the mountains was extreme. From the top of
+the river hills they proceeded down for three miles till they
+reached the water side, between eleven and twelve o'clock
+at night: here we found a small camp of five squaws and
+three children, the chief himself being encamped, with two
+others, on a small island in the river: the guide called to
+him and he soon came over. Captain Clarke gave him a
+medal, and they smoked together till one o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>We could not set out till eleven o'clock, because being
+obliged in the evening to loosen our horses to enable them
+to find subsistence, it is always difficult to collect them in
+the morning. At that hour we continued along the ridge
+on which we had slept, and at a mile and a half reached a
+large creek running to our left, just above its junction with
+one of its branches. We proceeded down the low grounds of
+this creek, which are level, wide, and heavily timbered, but
+turned to the right at the distance of two and a half miles,
+and began to pass the broken and hilly country; but the
+thick timber had fallen in so many places that we could
+scarcely make our way. After going five miles we passed
+the creek on which captain Clarke had encamped during the
+night of the 19th, and continued five miles further over the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_457" id="Pg_457" title="Pg_457">[457]</a></span>same kind of road, till we came to the forks of a large creek.
+We crossed the northern branch of this stream, and proceeded
+down it on the west side for a mile: here we found a
+small plain where there was tolerable grass for the horses,
+and therefore remained during the night, having made fifteen
+miles on a course S. 30&deg; W.</p>
+
+<p>The arbor vit&aelig; increases in size and quantity as we advance:
+some of the trees we passed to-day being capable of
+forming periogues at least forty-five feet in length. We
+were so fortunate also as to kill a few pheasants and a prairie
+wolf, which, with the remainder of the horse, supplied
+us with one meal, the last of our provisions, our food for
+the morrow being wholly dependent on the chance of our
+guns.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, 22. Captain Clarke passed over to the island
+with the Twisted-hair, who seemed to be cheerful and sincere
+in his conduct. The river at this place is about one
+hundred and sixty yards wide, but interrupted by shoals, and
+the low grounds on its borders are narrow. The hunters
+brought in three deer; after which Captain Clarke left his
+party, and accompanied by the Twisted-hair and his son,
+rode back to the village, where he arrived about sunset: they
+then walked up together to the second village, where we had
+just arrived. We had intended to set out early, but one of
+the men having neglected to hobble his horse he strayed
+away, and we were obliged to wait till nearly twelve o'clock.
+We then proceeded on a western course for two and a half
+miles, when we met the hunters sent by Captain Clarke
+from the village, seven and a half miles distant, with provisions.
+This supply was most seasonable, as we had tasted
+nothing since last night, and the fish, and roots, and berries,
+in addition to a crow which we killed on the route, completely
+satisfied our hunger. After this refreshment we proceeded
+in much better spirits, and at a few miles were overtaken
+by the two men who had been sent back after a horse
+on the 20th. They were perfectly exhausted with the fatigue
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_458" id="Pg_458" title="Pg_458">[458]</a></span>of walking and the want of food; but as we had two
+spare horses they were mounted and brought on to the village.</p>
+
+<p>They had set out about three o'clock in the afternoon of the
+20th with one horse between them: after crossing the mountain
+they came to the place where we had eaten the horse.
+Here they encamped, and having no food made a fire and
+roasted the head of the horse, which even our appetites had
+spared, and supped on the ears, skin, lips, &amp;c. of the animal.
+The next morning, 21st, they found the track of the horse,
+and pursuing it recovered the saddle-bags, and at length
+about eleven o'clock, the horse himself. Being now both
+mounted, they set out to return and slept at a small stream:
+during the day they had nothing at all except two pheasants,
+which were so torn to pieces by the shot, that the head and
+legs were the only parts fit for food. In this situation they
+found the next morning, 22d, that during the night their
+horses had run away from them or been stolen by the Indians.
+They searched for them until nine o'clock, when seeing
+that they could not recover them and fearful of starving if
+they remained where they were, they set out on foot to join
+us, carrying the saddle-bags alternately. They walked as
+fast as they could during the day, till they reached us in a
+deplorable state of weakness and inanition.</p>
+
+<p>As we approached the village, most of the women, though
+apprised of our being expected, fled with their children into
+the neighbouring woods. The men, however, received us
+without any apprehension, and gave us a plentiful supply
+of provisions. The plains were now crowded with Indians,
+who came to see the persons of the whites and the strange
+things they brought with them: but as our guide was perfectly
+a stranger to their language we could converse by
+signs only. Our inquiries were chiefly directed to the situation
+of the country, the courses of the rivers, and the
+Indian villages, of all which we received information from
+several of the Indians, and as their accounts varied but
+little from each other, we were induced to place confidence
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_459" id="Pg_459" title="Pg_459">[459]</a></span>in them. Among others, the Twisted-hair drew a chart
+of the river on a white elk skin. According to this, the
+Kooskooskee forks a few miles from this place; two days
+towards the south is another and larger fork on which the
+Shoshonee or Snake Indians fish: five days' journey further
+is a large river from the northwest into which Clarke's
+river empties itself: from the mouth of that river to the
+falls is five days' journey further: on all the forks as well
+as on the main river great numbers of Indians reside, and
+at the falls are establishments of whites. This was the
+story of the Twisted-hair.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 23. The chiefs and warriors were all assembled
+this morning, and we explained to them where we
+came from, the objects of our visiting them, and our pacific
+intentions towards all the Indians. This being conveyed
+by signs, might not have been perfectly comprehended,
+but appeared to give perfect satisfaction. We now gave
+a medal to two of the chiefs, a shirt in addition to the medal
+already received by the Twisted-hair, and delivered a
+flag and a handkerchief for the grand chief on his return.
+To these were added a knife, a handkerchief and a small
+piece of tobacco for each chief. The inhabitants did not
+give us any provisions gratuitously. We therefore purchased
+a quantity of fish, berries (chiefly red haws) and
+roots; and in the afternoon went on to the second village.
+The Twisted-hair introduced us into his own tent, which
+consisted however of nothing more than pine bushes and
+bark, and gave us some dried salmon boiled. We continued
+our purchases, and obtained as much provision as our horses
+could carry in their present weak condition as far as
+the river. The men exchanged a few old canisters for
+dressed elk skins, of which they made shirts: great crowds
+of the natives are round us all night, but we have not yet
+missed any thing except a knife and a few other articles
+stolen yesterday from a shot pouch. At dark we had a
+hard wind from the southwest accompanied with rain which
+lasted half an hour, but in the morning,</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_460" id="Pg_460" title="Pg_460">[460]</a></span>Tuesday 24, the weather was fair. We sent back Colter
+in search of the horses lost in the mountains, and having
+collected the rest set out at ten o'clock along the same
+route already passed by captain Clarke towards the river.
+All round the village the women are busily employed in
+gathering and dressing the pasheco root, of which large
+quantities are heaped up in piles over the plain. We now
+felt severely the consequence of eating heartily after our
+late privations: captain Lewis and two of the men were
+taken very ill last evening, and to-day he could scarcely
+sit on his horse, while others were obliged to be put on
+horseback, and some from extreme weakness and pain,
+were forced to lie down along side of the road for some
+time. At sunset we reached the island where the hunters
+had been left on the 22d. They had been unsuccessful, having
+killed only two deer since that time, and two of them
+are very sick. A little below this island is a larger one on
+which we encamped, and administered Rush's pills to the
+sick.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 25. The weather was very hot, and oppressive
+to the party, most of whom are now complaining of sickness.
+Our situation indeed, rendered it necessary to husband
+our remaining strength, and it was determined to proceed
+down the river in canoes. Captain Clarke therefore
+set out with the Twisted-hair and two young men, in
+quest of timber for canoes. As he went down the river
+he crossed at the distance of a mile a creek from the right,
+which from the rocks that obstructed its passage, he called
+Rockdam river. The hills along the river are high and
+steep: the low grounds are narrow, and the navigation of
+the river embarrassed by two rapids. At the distance of
+three miles further he reached two nearly equal forks of
+the river, one of which flowed in from the north. Here he
+rested for an hour, and cooked a few salmon which one of
+the Indians caught with a gig. Here too, he was joined by
+two canoes of Indians from below: they were long, steady,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_461" id="Pg_461" title="Pg_461">[461]</a></span>and loaded with the furniture and provisions of two families.
+He now crossed the south fork, and returned to the
+camp on the south side, through a narrow pine bottom the
+greater part of the way, in which was found much fine timber
+for canoes. One of the Indian boats with two men, set out
+at the same time, and such was their dexterity in managing
+the pole, that they reached camp within fifteen minutes
+after him, although they had to drag the canoe over three
+rapids. He found captain Lewis, and several of the men
+still very sick; and distributed to such as were in need of it,
+salts and tartar emetic.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 26. Having resolved to go down to some spot
+calculated for building canoes, we set out early this morning
+and proceeded five miles, and encamped on low ground
+on the south, opposite the forks of the river. But so weak
+were the men that several were taken sick in coming down;
+the weather being oppressively hot. Two chiefs and their
+families followed us, and encamped with a great number
+of horses near us: and soon after our arrival we were joined
+by two Indians, who came down the north fork on a
+raft. We purchased some fresh salmon, and having distributed
+axes, and portioned off the labour of the party, began,</p>
+
+<p>Friday 27, at an early hour, the preparations for making
+five canoes. But few of the men, however, were able
+to work, and of these several were soon taken ill, as the
+day proved very hot. The hunters too, returned without
+any game, and seriously indisposed, so that nearly the
+whole party was now ill. We procured some fresh salmon;
+and Colter, who now returned with one of the horses,
+brought half a deer, which was very nourishing to the invalids:
+several Indians from a camp below, came up to
+see us.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 28. The men continue ill, though some of
+those first attacked are recovering. Their general complaint
+is a heaviness at the stomach, and a lax, which is
+rendered more painful by the heat of the weather, and the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_462" id="Pg_462" title="Pg_462">[462]</a></span>diet of fish and roots, to which they are confined, as no game
+is to be procured. A number of Indians collect about us
+in the course of the day to gaze at the strange appearance
+of every thing belonging to us.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 29. The morning was cool, the wind from the
+southwest; but in the afternoon the heat returned. The
+men continue ill; but all those who are able to work are occupied
+at the canoes. The spirits of the party were much
+recruited by three deer brought in by the hunters; and the
+next day,</p>
+
+<p>Monday 30th, the sick began to recruit their strength,
+the morning being fair and pleasant. The Indians pass in
+great numbers up and down the river, and we observe large
+quantities of small duck going down this morning.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday, October 1, 1805. The morning was cool, the wind
+easterly, but the latter part of the day was warm. We were
+visited by several Indians from the tribes below, and others
+from the main south fork. To two of the most distinguished
+men, we made presents of a ring and broach, and to five others
+a piece of riband, a little tobacco, and the fifth part of a neckcloth.
+We now dried our clothes and other articles, and
+selected some articles such as the Indians admire, in order
+to purchase some provisions, as we have nothing left except
+a little dried fish, which operates as a complete purgative.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday 2. The day is very warm. Two men were
+sent to the village with a quantity of these articles to purchase
+food. We are now reduced to roots, which produce
+violent pains in the stomach. Our work continued as usual,
+and many of the party are convalescent. The hunters returned
+in the afternoon with nothing but a small prairie-wolf,
+so that our provisions being exhausted, we killed one of the
+horses to eat, and provide soup for the sick.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday 3. The fine cool morning and easterly wind
+had an agreeable effect upon the party, most of whom
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_463" id="Pg_463" title="Pg_463">[463]</a></span>are now able to work. The Indians from below left us,
+and we were visited by others from different quarters.</p>
+
+<p>Friday 4. Again we had a cool east wind from the mountains.
+The men were now much better, and captain Lewis
+himself so far recovered as to walk about a little. Three
+Indians arrived to-day from the Great river to the south.
+The two men also returned from the village with roots
+and fish, and as the flesh of the horse killed yesterday was
+exhausted, we were confined to that diet, although unwholesome
+as well as unpleasant. The afternoon was warm.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday 5. The wind easterly, and the weather cool.
+The canoes being nearly finished it became necessary to dispose
+of our horses. They were therefore collected to the
+number of thirty-eight, and being branded and marked were
+delivered to three Indians, the two brothers and the son of
+a chief, who promises to accompany us down the river. To
+each of those men we gave a knife and some small articles,
+and they agreed to take good care of the horses till our return.
+The hunters with all their diligence are unable to
+kill any thing, the hills being high and rugged, and the
+woods too dry to hunt deer, which is the only game in the
+country. We therefore continue to eat dried fish and roots,
+which are purchased from the squaws, by means of small
+presents, but chiefly white beads, of which they are extravagantly
+fond. Some of these roots seem to possess very
+active properties, for after supping on them this evening,
+we were swelled to such a degree as to be scarcely able to
+breathe for several hours. Towards night we lanched two
+canoes which proved to be very good.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday 6. This morning is again cool, and the wind easterly.
+The general course of the winds seems to resemble
+that which we observed on the east side of the mountain.
+While on the head waters of the Missouri, we had every
+morning a cool wind from the west. At this place a cool
+breeze springs up during the latter part of the night, or near
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_464" id="Pg_464" title="Pg_464">[464]</a></span>daybreak, and continues till seven or eight o'clock, when it
+subsides, and the latter part of the day is warm. Captain
+Lewis is not so well as he was, and captain Clarke was
+also taken ill. We had all our saddles buried in a cache
+near the river, about half a mile below, and deposited at the
+same time a canister of powder, and a bag of balls. The
+time which could be spared from our labours on the canoes,
+was devoted to some astronomical observations. The latitude
+of our camp as deduced from the mean of two observations
+is 46&deg; 34' 56" 3"' north.</p>
+
+<p>Monday 7. This morning all the canoes were put in the
+water and loaded, the oars fixed, and every preparation
+made for setting out but when we were all ready, the two
+chiefs who had promised to accompany us, were not to be
+found, and at the same time we missed a pipe tomahawk.
+We therefore proceeded without them. Below the forks
+this river is called the Kooskooskee, and is a clear rapid
+stream, with a number of shoals and difficult places. For
+some miles the hills are steep, the low grounds narrow, but
+then succeeds an open country with a few trees scattered
+along the river. At the distance of nine miles is a small
+creek on the left. We passed in the course of the day ten
+rapids, in descending which, one of the canoes struck a rock,
+and sprung a leak: we however continued for nineteen miles,
+and encamped on the left side of the river, opposite to the
+mouth of a small run. Here the canoe was unloaded and
+repaired, and two lead canisters of powder deposited; several
+camps of Indians were on the sides of the river, but we
+had little intercourse with any of them.</p>
+
+<p>Tuesday 8. We set out at nine o'clock. At eight and
+a half miles we passed an island: four and a half miles lower
+a second island, opposite a small creek on the left side of
+the river. Five miles lower is another island on the left: a
+mile and a half below which is a fourth. At a short distance
+from this is a large creek from the right, to which we gave
+the name of Colter's creek, from Colter one of the men.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_465" id="Pg_465" title="Pg_465">[465]</a></span>We had left this creek about a mile and a half, and were
+passing the last of fifteen rapids which we had been fortunate
+enough to escape, when one of the canoes struck, and a hole
+being made in her side, she immediately filled and sunk. The
+men, several of whom could not swim, clung to the boat till
+one of our canoes could be unloaded, and with the assistance
+of an Indian boat, they were all brought to shore. All
+the goods were so much wet, that we were obliged to halt
+for the night, and spread them out to dry. While all this
+was exhibited, it was necessary to place two sentinels over
+the merchandise, for we found that the Indians, though
+kind and disposed to give us every aid during our distress,
+could not resist the temptation of pilfering some of the small
+articles. We passed during our route of twenty miles to-day,
+several encampments of Indians on the islands, and near
+the rapids, which places are chosen as most convenient for
+taking salmon. At one of these camps we found our two
+chiefs, who after promising to descend the river with us, had
+left us; they however willingly came on board after we had
+gone through the ceremony of smoking.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday, 9. The morning was as usual, cool; but as
+the weather both yesterday and to-day was cloudy, our
+merchandise dried but slowly. The boat, though much injured,
+was repaired by ten o'clock so as to be perfectly fit
+for service; but we were obliged to remain during the day
+till the articles were sufficiently dry to be reloaded: the interval
+we employed in purchasing fish for the voyage and
+conversing with the Indians. In the afternoon we were surprised
+at hearing that our old Shoshonee guide and his son had
+left us, and been seen running up the river several miles above.
+As he had never given any notice of his intention, nor had even
+received his pay for guiding us, we could not imagine the
+cause of his desertion, nor did he ever return to explain his
+conduct. We requested the chief to send a horseman after
+him to request that he would return and receive what we
+owed him. From this however he dissuaded us, and said
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_466" id="Pg_466" title="Pg_466">[466]</a></span>very frankly, that his nation, the Chopunnish, would take
+from the old man any presents that he might have on passing
+their camp.</p>
+
+<p>The Indians came about our camp at night, and were
+very gay and good-humoured with the men. Among other
+exhibitions was that of a squaw who appeared to be crazy:
+she sang in a wild incoherent manner, and would offer to the
+spectators all the little articles she possessed, scarifying
+herself in a horrid manner if any one refused her present:
+she seemed to be an object of pity among the Indians, who
+suffered her to do as she pleased without interruption.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday, 10. A fine morning. We loaded the canoes
+and set off at seven o'clock. At the distance of two and a
+half miles we had passed three islands, the last of which is
+opposite to a small stream on the right. Within the following
+three and a half miles is another island and a creek
+on the left, with wide low grounds, containing willow and
+cottonwood trees, on which were three tents of Indians.
+Two miles lower is the head of a large island, and six and a
+half miles further we halted at an encampment of eight
+lodges on the left, in order to view a rapid before us: we had
+already passed eight, and some of them difficult; but this
+was worse than any of them, being a very hazardous ripple
+strewed with rocks: we here purchased roots and dined with
+the Indians. Among them was a man from the falls, who
+says that he saw white people at that place and is very desirous
+of going down with us; an offer which however we
+declined. Just above this camp we had passed a tent, near
+which was an Indian bathing himself in a small pond or hole
+of water, warmed by throwing in hot stones. After finishing
+our meal we descended the rapid with no injury, except
+to one of our boats which ran against a rock, but in the
+course of an hour was brought off with only a small split in
+her side. This ripple, from its appearance and difficulty,
+we named the Rugged rapid. We went on over five other
+rapids of a less dangerous kind, and at the distance of five
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_467" id="Pg_467" title="Pg_467">[467]</a></span>miles reached a large fork of the river from the south; and
+after coming twenty miles, halted below the junction on
+the right side of the river: our arrival soon attracted the
+attention of the Indians, who flocked in all directions to see
+us. In the evening the Indian from the falls, whom we had
+seen at the Rugged rapid, joined us with his son in a small
+canoe, and insisted on accompanying us to the falls. Being
+again reduced to fish and roots we made an experiment to
+vary our food by <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'purchsing'.">purchasing</ins> a few dogs, and after having
+been accustomed to horse-flesh, felt no disrelish to this new
+dish. The Chopunnish have great numbers of dogs which
+they employ for domestic purposes, but never eat; and our
+using the flesh of that animal soon brought us into ridicule
+as dog-eaters.</p>
+
+<p>The country at the junction of the two rivers is an open
+plain on all sides, broken towards the left by a distant ridge
+of highland, thinly covered with timber: this is the only
+body of timber which the country possesses; for at the forks
+there is not a tree to be seen, and during almost the whole
+descent of sixty miles down the Kooskooskee from its forks
+there are very few. This southern branch is in fact the
+main stream of Lewis's river on which we encamped when
+among the Shoshonees. The Indians inform us that it is
+navigable for sixty miles; that not far from its mouth it
+receives a branch from the south; and a second and
+larger branch, two days' march up, and nearly parallel to
+the first Chopunnish villages, we met near the mountains.
+This branch is called Pawnashte, and is the residence of a
+chief, who, according to their expression, has more horses
+than he can count. The river has many rapids, near which are
+situated many fishing camps; there being ten establishments
+of this before reaching the first southern branch; one on
+that stream, five between that and the Pawnashte; one on
+that river, and two above it; besides many other Indians
+who reside high up on the more distant waters of this river.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_468" id="Pg_468" title="Pg_468">[468]</a></span>All these Indians belong to the Chopunnish nation, and live
+in tents of an oblong form, covered with flat roofs.</p>
+
+<p>At its mouth Lewis's river is about two hundred and
+fifty yards wide, and its water is of a greenish blue colour.
+The Kooskooskee, whose waters are clear as crystal, one
+hundred and fifty yards in width, and after the union the
+river enlarges to the space of three hundred yards: at the
+point of the union is an Indian cabin, and in Lewis's river a
+small island.</p>
+
+<p>The Chopunnish or Pierced-nose nation, who reside on
+the Kooskooskee and Lewis's rivers, are in person stout,
+portly, well-looking men: the women are small, with good
+features, and generally handsome, though the complexion
+of both sexes is darker than that of the Tushepaws. In
+dress they resemble that nation, being fond of displaying
+their ornaments. The buffaloe or elk-skin robe decorated
+with beads, sea-shells, chiefly mother-of-pearl, attached to
+an otter-skin collar and hung in the hair, which falls in
+front in two queues; feathers, paints of different kinds, principally
+white, green, and light blue, all of which they find
+in their own country: these are the chief ornaments they
+use. In the winter they wear a short shirt of dressed skins,
+long painted leggings and moccasins, and a plait of twisted
+grass round the neck.</p>
+
+<p>The dress of the women is more simple, consisting of a
+long shirt of argalia or ibex skin, reaching down to the ankles
+without a girdle: to this are tied little pieces of brass
+and shells and other small articles; but the head is not at
+all ornamented. The dress of the female is indeed more
+modest, and more studiously so than any we have observed,
+though the other sex is careless of the indelicacy of exposure.</p>
+
+<p>The Chopunnish have very few amusements, for their
+life is painful and laborious; and all their exertions are necessary
+to earn even their precarious subsistence. During
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_469" id="Pg_469" title="Pg_469">[469]</a></span>the summer and autumn they are busily occupied in fishing
+for salmon, and collecting their winter store of roots. In
+the winter they hunt the deer on snow shoes over the plains,
+and towards spring cross the mountains to the Missouri for
+the purpose of trafficking for buffaloe robes. The inconveniences
+of that comfortless life are increased by frequent
+encounters with their enemies from the west, who drive
+them over the mountains with the loss of their horses, and
+sometimes the lives of many of the nation. Though originally
+the same people, their dialect varies very perceptibly
+from that of the Tushepaws: their treatment to us differed
+much from the kind and disinterested services of the Shoshonees:
+they are indeed selfish and avaricious; they part
+very reluctantly with every article of food or clothing; and
+while they expect a recompense for every service however
+small, do not concern themselves about reciprocating any
+presents we may give them.</p>
+
+<p>They are generally healthy&mdash;the only disorders which
+we have had occasion to remark being of a scrophulous
+kind, and for these, as well as for the amusement of those
+who are in good health, hot and cold bathing is very commonly
+used.</p>
+
+<p>The soil of these prairies is of a light yellow clay intermixed
+with small smooth grass: it is barren, and produces
+little more than a bearded grass about three inches high,
+and a prickly pear, of which we now found three species:
+the first is of the broad-leafed kind, common to the
+Missouri. The second has the leaf of a globular form, and
+is also frequent on the upper part of the Missouri, particularly
+after it enters the Rocky mountains. The third is pecular
+to this country, and is much more inconvenient than
+the other two: it consists of small thick leaves of a circular
+form, which grow from the margin of each other as in the
+broad-leafed pear of the Missouri: these leaves are armed
+with a greater number of thorns, which are stronger, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_470" id="Pg_470" title="Pg_470">[470]</a></span>appear to be barbed; and as the leaf itself is very slightly
+attached to the stem, as soon as one thorn touches the moccasin
+it adheres and brings with it the leaf, which is accompanied
+by a reenforecement of thorns.<br /></p>
+
+<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="center">END OF VOLUME 1.</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
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+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of History of the Expedition under the
+Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I., by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark
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+</pre>
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+</body>
+</html>
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@@ -0,0 +1,15996 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of History of the Expedition under the Command
+of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I., by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I.
+       To The Sources Of The Missouri, Thence Across The Rocky
+       Mountains And Down The River Columbia To The Pacific Ocean.
+       Performed During The Years 1804-5-6.
+
+Author: Meriwether Lewis and William Clark
+
+Editor: Paul Allen
+
+Release Date: August 20, 2005 [EBook #16565]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LEWIS AND CLARK, I. ***
+
+
+
+
+
+        --------------------------------------------------------
+        |  * Transcriber's Note: Every effort has been made    |
+        |  to replicate this text as faithfully as possible,   |
+        |  including obsolete and variant spellings and other  |
+        |  inconsistencies. Where the text has been changed to |
+        |  correct an obvious error by the publisher, the word |
+        |  has been marked with an asterisk.  Please note that |
+        |  as this ascii version of the text does not support  |
+        |  the degree symbol or ligatures, these have been     |
+        |  replaced with the appropriate word or letters.      |
+        --------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: A Map of Lewis and Clark's Track, Across the Western
+Portion of North America, From the Mississippi to the Pacific Ocean; by
+Order of the Executive of the United States, in 1804, 5&6.
+Copied by Samuel Lewis from the Original Drawing by Wm. Clark.]
+
+
+
+
+                                HISTORY
+
+                                  OF
+
+                            THE EXPEDITION
+
+                          UNDER THE COMMAND OF
+
+                       _CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARK,_
+
+                                   TO
+
+                      THE SOURCES OF THE MISSOURI,
+
+                                 THENCE
+
+                       ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS
+
+                              AND DOWN THE
+
+                   RIVER COLUMBIA TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
+
+                   PERFORMED DURING THE YEARS 1804-5-6.
+
+
+                             By order of the
+
+                     GOVERNMENT OF THE UNITED STATES.
+
+
+
+                         PREPARED FOR THE PRESS
+                         BY PAUL ALLEN, ESQUIRE.
+                            IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+                                VOL. I.
+
+
+                             _PHILADELPHIA_
+
+                  PUBLISHED BY BRADFORD AND INSKEEP; AND
+                        ABM. H. INSKEEP, NEW YORK.
+                           J. Maxwell, Printer
+                                  1814.
+
+
+
+
+DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, to wit:
+
+     BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the twenty-second day of January, in the
+     thirty-eighth year of the independence of the United States of
+     America, A.D. 1814, Bradford and Inskeep, of the said district,
+     have deposited in this office the title of a book, the right
+     whereof they claim as proprietors, in the words following, to wit:
+
+     "History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and
+     Clark, to the Sources of the Missouri, thence across the Rocky
+     Mountains, and down the River Columbia to the Pacific Ocean.
+     Performed during the Years 1804-5-6, by order of the Government of
+     the United States. Prepared for the press by Paul Allen, Esquire."
+
+     In conformity to the act of Congress of the United States, entitled
+     "An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies
+     of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such
+     copies during the times therein mentioned." And also to the act,
+     entitled, "An act supplementary to an act, entitled, "An act for
+     the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps,
+     charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies
+     during the times therein mentioned," and extending the benefits
+     thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching historical
+     and other prints."
+                                             DAVID CALDWELL,
+                                Clerk of the District of Pennsylvania.
+
+
+
+
+                                PREFACE.
+
+
+In presenting these volumes to the public, the editor owes equally to
+himself and to others, to state the circumstances which have preceded
+the publication, and to explain his own share in compiling them.
+
+It was the original design of captain Lewis to have been himself the
+editor of his own travels, and he was on his way towards Philadelphia
+for that purpose when his sudden death frustrated these intentions.
+After a considerable and unavoidable delay, the papers connected with
+the expedition were deposited with another gentleman, who, in order to
+render the lapse of time as little injurious as possible, proceeded
+immediately to collect and investigate all the materials within his
+reach.
+
+Of the incidents of each day during the expedition, a minute journal was
+kept by captain Lewis or captain Clark, and sometimes by both, which was
+afterwards revised and enlarged at the different periods of leisure
+which occurred on the route. These were carefully perused in conjunction
+with captain Clark himself, who was able from his own recollection of
+the journey, as well as from a constant residence in Louisiana since his
+return, to supply a great mass of explanations, and much additional
+information with regard to part of the route which has been more
+recently explored. Besides these, recourse was had to the manuscript
+journals kept by two of the serjeants, one of which, the least minute
+and valuable, has already been published. That nothing might be wanting
+to the accuracy of these details, a very intelligent and active member
+of the party, Mr. George Shannon, was sent to contribute whatever his
+memory might add to this accumulated fund of information.
+
+From these copious materials the narrative was sketched nearly in its
+present form, when other pursuits diverted the attention of the writer,
+and compelled him to transfer his manuscript, in its unfinished state,
+with all the documents connected with it, to the present editor, to
+prepare them for the press and superintend the publication. That he may
+not seem to arrogate any thing from the exertions of others, he should
+therefore state that, although the whole work was thus submitted to his
+entire discretion, he found but little to change, and that his labour
+has been principally confined to revising the manuscript, comparing it
+with the original papers, and inserting such additional matter as
+appears to have been intentionally deferred by the writer till the
+period of a more mature revisal. These circumstances, which would
+otherwise be indifferent to the public, are mentioned merely to account
+for imperfections, which are in some degree inseparable from any book
+of travels not written by the traveller. In a work of pure description
+indeed, like the present, where the incidents themselves are the sole
+objects of attraction, the part of an editor is necessarily subordinate,
+nor can his humble pretensions aspire beyond the merit of rigid
+adherence to facts as they are stated to him. This has been very
+diligently attempted, and for this, in its full extent, the editor deems
+himself responsible.
+
+The present volumes, it will be perceived, comprise only the narrative
+of the journey. Those parts of the work which relate to the various
+objects of natural history, observed or collected during the journey,
+as well as the alphabets of the Indian languages, are in the hands of
+professor Bartou, and will, it is understood, shortly appear.
+
+To give still further interest to the work, the editor addressed a
+letter to Mr. Jefferson, requesting some authentic memoirs of captain
+Lewis. For the very curious and valuable information contained in his
+answer, the public, as well as the editor himself, owe great obligations
+to the politeness and knowledge of that distinguished gentleman.
+
+                                                       PAUL ALLEN.
+PHILADELPHIA, January 1, 1814.
+
+
+
+
+                       LIFE OF CAPTAIN LEWIS.
+
+                                          _Monticello, August 18, 1813._
+SIR,
+
+In compliance with the request conveyed in your letter of May 25, I have
+endeavoured to obtain, from the relations and friends of the late
+governor Lewis, information of such incidents of his life as might be
+not unacceptable to those who may read the narrative of his western
+discoveries. The ordinary occurrences of a private life, and those also
+while acting in a subordinate sphere in the army, in a time of peace,
+are not deemed sufficiently interesting to occupy the public attention;
+but a general account of his parentage, with such smaller incidents as
+marked his early character are briefly noted; and to these are added, as
+being peculiarly within my own knowledge, whatever related to the public
+mission, of which an account is now to be published. The result of my
+inquiries and recollections shall now be offered, to be enlarged or
+abridged as you may think best; or otherwise to be used with the
+materials you may have collected from other sources.
+
+Meriwether Lewis, late governor of Louisiana, was born on the eighteenth
+of August, 1774, near the town of Charlottesville, in the county of
+Albemarle, in Virginia, of one of the distinguished families of that
+state. John Lewis, one of his father's uncles was a member of the
+king's council, before the revolution. Another of them, Fielding Lewis,
+married a sister of general Washington. His father, William Lewis, was
+the youngest of five sons of colonel Robert Lewis, of Albemarle, the
+fourth of whom, Charles, was one of the early patriots who stepped
+forward in the commencement of the revolution and commanded one of the
+regiments first raised in Virginia, and placed on continental
+establishment. Happily situated at home, with a wife and young family,
+and a fortune placing him at ease, he left all to aid in the liberation
+of his country from foreign usurpations, then first unmasking their
+ultimate end and aim. His good sense, integrity, bravery, enterprise,
+and remarkable bodily powers, marked him as an officer of great promise;
+but he unfortunately died early in the revolution. Nicholas Lewis, the
+second of his father's brothers, commanded a regiment of militia in the
+successful expedition of 1776, against the Cherokee Indians; who,
+seduced by the agents of the British government to take up the hatchet
+against us, had committed great havoc on our southern frontier, by
+murdering and scalping helpless women and children, according to their
+cruel and cowardly principles of warfare. The chastisement they then
+received closed the history of their wars, and prepared them for
+receiving the elements of civilization, which, zealously inculcated by
+the present government of the United States, have rendered them an
+industrious, peaceable, and happy people. This member of the family of
+Lewises, whose bravery was so usefully proved on this occasion, was
+endeared to all who knew him by his inflexible probity, courteous
+disposition, benevolent heart, and engaging modesty and manners. He was
+the umpire of all the private differences of his county--selected always
+by both parties. He was also the guardian of Meriwether Lewis, of whom
+we are now to speak, and who had lost his father at an early age. He
+continued some years under the fostering care of a tender mother, of the
+respectable family of Meriwethers, of the same county; and was
+remarkable even in infancy for enterprise, boldness, and discretion.
+When only eight years of age he habitually went out, in the dead of
+night, alone with his dogs, into the forest to hunt the raccoon and
+opossum, which, seeking their food in the night, can then only be taken.
+In this exercise, no season or circumstance could obstruct his
+purpose--plunging through the winter's snows and frozen streams in
+pursuit of his object. At thirteen he was put to the Latin school, and
+continued at that until eighteen, when he returned to his mother, and
+entered on the cares of his farm; having, as well as a younger brother,
+been left by his father with a competency for all the correct and
+comfortable purposes of temperate life. His talent for observation,
+which had led him to an accurate knowledge of the plants and animals of
+his own country, would have distinguished him as a farmer; but at the
+age of twenty, yielding to the ardour of youth, and a passion for more
+dazzling pursuits, he engaged as a volunteer in the body of militia
+which were called out by general Washington, on occasion of the
+discontents produced by the excise taxes in the western parts of the
+United States; and from that situation he was removed to the regular
+service as a lieutenant in the line. At twenty-three he was promoted to
+a captaincy; and, always attracting the first attention where
+punctuality and fidelity were requisite, he was appointed paymaster to
+his regiment. About this time a circumstance occurred which, leading to
+the transaction which is the subject of this book, will justify a
+recurrence to its original idea. While I resided in Paris, John Ledyard,
+of Connecticut, arrived there, well known in the United States for
+energy of body and mind. He had accompanied captain Cook on his voyage
+to the Pacific ocean; and distinguished himself on that voyage by his
+intrepidity. Being of a roaming disposition, he was now panting for some
+new enterprise. His immediate object at Paris was to engage a mercantile
+company in the fur-trade of the western coast of America, in which,
+however, he failed. I then proposed to him to go by land to Kamschatka,
+cross in some of the Russian vessels to Nootka Sound, fall down into the
+latitude of the Missouri, and penetrate to, and through, that to the
+United States. He eagerly seized the idea, and only asked to be assured
+of the permission of the Russian government. I interested, in obtaining
+that, M. de Simoulin, minister plenipotentiary of the empress at Paris,
+but more especially the baron de Grimm, minister plenipotentiary of
+Saxe-Gotha, her more special agent and correspondent there in matters
+not immediately diplomatic. Her permission was obtained, and an
+assurance of protection while the course of the voyage should be through
+her territories. Ledyard set out from Paris, and arrived at St.
+Petersburgh after the empress had left that place to pass the winter, I
+think, at Moscow. His finances not permitting him to make unnecessary
+stay at St. Petersburgh, he left it with a passport from one of the
+ministers; and at two hundred miles from Kamschatka, was obliged to take
+up his winter quarters. He was preparing, in the spring, to resume his
+journey, when he was arrested by an officer of the empress, who by this
+time had changed her mind, and forbidden his proceeding. He was put into
+a close carriage, and conveyed day and night, without ever stopping,
+till they reached Poland; where he was set down and left to himself. The
+fatigue of this journey broke down his constitution; and when he
+returned to Paris his bodily strength was much impaired. His mind,
+however, remained firm, and he after this undertook the journey to
+Egypt. I received a letter from him, full of sanguine hopes, dated at
+Cairo, the fifteenth of November, 1788, the day before he was to set out
+for the head of the Nile; on which day, however, he ended his career and
+life: and thus failed the first attempt to explore the western part of
+our northern continent.
+
+In 1792, I proposed to the American Philosophical Society that we should
+set on foot a subscription to engage some competent person to explore
+that region in the opposite direction; that is, by ascending the
+Missouri, crossing the Stony mountains, and descending the nearest river
+to the Pacific. Captain Lewis being then stationed at Charlottesville,
+on the recruiting service, warmly solicited me to obtain for him the
+execution of that object. I told him it was proposed that the person
+engaged should be attended by a single companion only, to avoid exciting
+alarm among the Indians. This did not deter him; but Mr. Andre Michaux,
+a professed botanist, author of the Flora Boreali-Americana, and of the
+Histoire des Chesnes d'Amerique, offering his services, they were
+accepted. He received his instructions, and when he had reached Kentucky
+in the prosecution of his journey, he was overtaken by an order from the
+minister of France, then at Philadelphia, to relinquish the expedition,
+and to pursue elsewhere the botanical inquiries on which he was employed
+by that government: and thus failed the second attempt for exploring
+that region.
+
+In 1803, the act for establishing trading houses with the Indian tribes
+being about to expire, some modifications of it were recommended to
+congress by a confidential message of January 18th, and an extension of
+its views to the Indians on the Missouri. In order to prepare the way,
+the message proposed the sending an exploring party to trace the
+Missouri to its source, to cross the Highlands, and follow the best
+water-communication which offered itself from thence to the Pacific
+ocean. Congress approved the proposition, and voted a sum of money for
+carrying it into execution. Captain Lewis, who had then been near two
+years with me as private secretary, immediately renewed his
+solicitations to have the direction of the party. I had now had
+opportunities of knowing him intimately. Of courage undaunted;
+possessing a firmness and perseverance of purpose which nothing but
+impossibilities could divert from its direction; careful as a father of
+those committed to his charge, yet steady in the maintenance of order
+and discipline; intimate with the Indian character, customs, and
+principles; habituated to the hunting life; guarded, by exact
+observation of the vegetables and animals of his own country, against
+losing time in the description of objects already possessed; honest,
+disinterested, liberal, of sound understanding, and a fidelity to truth
+so scrupulous, that whatever he should report would be as certain as if
+seen by ourselves; with all these qualifications, as if selected and
+implanted by nature in one body for this express purpose, I could have
+no hesitation in confiding the enterprise to him. To fill up the measure
+desired, he wanted nothing but a greater familiarity with the technical
+language of the natural sciences, and readiness in the astronomical
+observations necessary for the geography of his route. To acquire these
+he repaired immediately to Philadelphia, and placed himself under the
+tutorage of the distinguished professors of that place, who with a zeal
+and emulation, enkindled by an ardent devotion to science, communicated
+to him freely the information requisite for the purposes of the journey.
+While attending too, at Lancaster, the fabrication of the arms with
+which he chose that his men should be provided, he had the benefit of
+daily communication with Mr. Andrew Ellicot, whose experience in
+astronomical observation, and practice of it in the woods, enabled him
+to apprise captain Lewis of the wants and difficulties he would
+encounter, and of the substitutes and resources offered by a woodland
+and uninhabited country.
+
+Deeming it necessary he should have some person with him of known
+competence to the direction of the enterprise, in the event of accident
+to himself, he proposed William Clarke, brother of general George Rogers
+Clarke, who was approved, and, with that view, received a commission of
+captain.
+
+In April, 1803, a draught of his instructions was sent to captain Lewis,
+and on the twentieth of June they were signed in the following form:
+
+     "To Meriwether Lewis, esquire, captain of the first regiment of
+     infantry of the United States of America:
+
+     "Your situation as secretary of the president of the United States,
+     has made you acquainted with the objects of my confidential message
+     of January 18, 1803, to the legislature; you have seen the act they
+     passed, which, though expressed in general terms, was meant to
+     sanction those objects, and you are appointed to carry them into
+     execution.
+
+     "Instruments for ascertaining, by celestial observations, the
+     geography of the country through which you will pass, have been
+     already provided. Light articles for barter and presents among the
+     Indians, arms for your attendants, say for from ten to twelve men,
+     boats, tents, and other travelling apparatus, with ammunition,
+     medicine, surgical instruments, and provisions, you will have
+     prepared, with such aids as the secretary at war can yield in his
+     department; and from him also you will receive authority to engage
+     among our troops, by voluntary agreement, the number of attendants
+     abovementioned; over whom you, as their commanding officer, are
+     invested with all the powers the laws give in such a case.
+
+     "As your movements, while within the limits of the United States,
+     will be better directed by occasional communications, adapted to
+     circumstances as they arise, they will not be noticed here. What
+     follows will respect your proceedings after your departure from the
+     United States.
+
+     "Your mission has been communicated to the ministers here from
+     France, Spain, and Great Britain, and through them to their
+     governments; and such assurances given them as to its objects, as
+     we trust will satisfy them. The country of Louisiana having been
+     ceded by Spain to France, the passport you have from the minister
+     of France, the representative of the present sovereign of the
+     country, will be a protection with all its subjects; and that from
+     the minister of England will entitle you to the friendly aid of any
+     traders of that allegiance with whom you may happen to meet.
+
+     "The object of your mission is to explore the Missouri river, and
+     such principal streams of it, as, by its course and communication
+     with the waters of the Pacific ocean, whether the Columbia, Oregan,
+     Colorado, or any other river, may offer the most direct and
+     practicable water-communication across the continent, for the
+     purposes of commerce.
+
+     "Beginning at the mouth of the Missouri, you will take observations
+     of latitude and longitude, at all remarkable points on the river,
+     and especially at the mouths of rivers, at rapids, at islands, and
+     other places and objects distinguished by such natural marks and
+     characters, of a durable kind, as that they may with certainty be
+     recognised hereafter. The courses of the river between these points
+     of observation may be supplied by the compass, the log-line, and by
+     time, corrected by the observations themselves. The variations of
+     the needle, too, in different places, should be noticed.
+
+     "The interesting points of the portage between the heads of the
+     Missouri, and of the water offering the best communication with the
+     Pacific ocean, should also be fixed by observation; and the course
+     of that water to the ocean, in the same manner as that of the
+     Missouri.
+
+     "Your observations are to be taken with great pains and accuracy;
+     to be entered distinctly and intelligibly for others as well as
+     yourself; to comprehend all the elements necessary, with the aid of
+     the usual tables, to fix the latitude and longitude of the places
+     at which they were taken; and are to be rendered to the war-office,
+     for the purpose of having the calculations made concurrently by
+     proper persons within the United States. Several copies of these,
+     as well as of your other notes, should be made at leisure times,
+     and put into the care of the most trust-worthy of your attendants
+     to guard, by multiplying them against the accidental losses to
+     which they will be exposed. A further guard would be, that one of
+     these copies be on the cuticular membranes of the paper-birch, as
+     less liable to injury from damp than common paper.
+
+     "The commerce which may be carried on with the people inhabiting
+     the line you will pursue, renders a knowledge of those people
+     important. You will therefore endeavour to make yourself
+     acquainted, as far as a diligent pursuit of your journey shall
+     admit, with the names of the nations and their numbers;
+
+     "The extent and limits of their possessions;
+
+     "Their relations with other tribes or nations;
+
+     "Their language, traditions, monuments;
+
+     "Their ordinary occupations in agriculture, fishing, hunting, war,
+     arts, and the implements for these;
+
+     "Their food, clothing, and domestic accommodations;
+
+     "The diseases prevalent among them, and the remedies they use;
+
+     "Moral and physical circumstances which distinguish them from the
+     tribes we know;
+
+     "Peculiarities in their laws, customs, and dispositions;
+
+     "And articles of commerce they may need or furnish, and to what
+     extent.
+
+     "And, considering the interest which every nation has in extending
+     and strengthening the authority of reason and justice among the
+     people around them, it will be useful to acquire what knowledge you
+     can of the state of morality, religion, and information among them;
+     as it may better enable those who may endeavour to civilize and
+     instruct them, to adapt their measures to the existing notions and
+     practices of those on whom they are to operate.
+
+     "Other objects worthy of notice will be--
+
+     "The soil and face of the country, its growth and vegetable
+     productions, especially those not of the United States;
+
+     "The animals of the country generally, and especially those not
+     known in the United States;
+
+     "The remains and accounts of any which may be deemed rare or
+     extinct;
+
+     "The mineral productions of every kind, but more particularly
+     metals, lime-stone, pit-coal, and saltpetre; salines and mineral
+     waters, noting the temperature of the last, and such circumstances
+     as may indicate their character;
+
+     "Volcanic appearances;
+
+     "Climate, as characterized by the thermometer, by the proportion of
+     rainy, cloudy, and clear days; by lightning, hail, snow, ice; by
+     the access and recess of frost; by the winds prevailing at
+     different seasons; the dates at which particular plants put forth,
+     or lose their flower or leaf; times of appearance of particular
+     birds, reptiles or insects.
+
+     "Although your route will be along the channel of the Missouri, yet
+     you will endeavour to inform yourself, by inquiry, of the character
+     and extent of the country watered by its branches, and especially
+     on its southern side. The North river, or Rio Bravo, which runs
+     into the gulf of Mexico, and the North river, or Rio Colorado,
+     which runs into the gulf of California, are understood to be the
+     principal streams heading opposite to the waters of the Missouri,
+     and running southwardly. Whether the dividing grounds between the
+     Missouri and them are mountains or flat lands, what are their
+     distance from the Missouri, the character of the intermediate
+     country, and the people inhabiting it, are worthy of particular
+     inquiry. The northern waters of the Missouri are less to be
+     inquired after, because they have been ascertained to a
+     considerable degree, and are still in a course of ascertainment by
+     English traders and travellers; but if you can learn any thing
+     certain of the most northern source of the Missisipi, and of its
+     position relatively to the Lake of the Woods, it will be
+     interesting to us. Some account too of the path of the Canadian
+     traders from the Missisipi, at the mouth of the Onisconsing to
+     where it strikes the Missouri, and of the soil and rivers in its
+     course, is desirable.
+
+     "In all your intercourse with the natives, treat them in the most
+     friendly and conciliatory manner which their own conduct will
+     admit; allay all jealousies as to the object of your journey;
+     satisfy them of its innocence; make them acquainted with the
+     position, extent, character, peaceable and commercial dispositions
+     of the United States; of our wish to be neighbourly, friendly, and
+     useful to them, and of our dispositions to a commercial intercourse
+     with them; confer with them on the points most convenient as mutual
+     emporiums, and the articles of most desirable interchange for them
+     and us. If a few of their influential chiefs, within practicable
+     distance, wish to visit us, arrange such a visit with them, and
+     furnish them with authority to call on our officers on their
+     entering the United States, to have them conveyed to this place at
+     the public expense. If any of them should wish to have some of
+     their young people brought up with us, and taught such arts as may
+     be useful to them, we will receive, instruct, and take care of
+     them. Such a mission, whether of influential chiefs, or of young
+     people, would give some security to your own party. Carry with you
+     some matter of the kine-pox; inform those of them with whom you may
+     be of its efficacy as a preservative from the small-pox, and
+     instruct and encourage them in the use of it. This may be
+     especially done wherever you winter.
+
+     "As it is impossible for us to foresee in what manner you will be
+     received by those people, whether with hospitality or hostility, so
+     is it impossible to prescribe the exact degree of perseverance with
+     which you are to pursue your journey. We value too much the lives
+     of citizens to offer them to probable destruction. Your numbers
+     will be sufficient to secure you against the unauthorized
+     opposition of individuals, or of small parties; but if a superior
+     force, authorized, or not authorized, by a nation, should be
+     arrayed against your further passage, and inflexibly determined to
+     arrest it, you must decline its further pursuit and return. In the
+     loss of yourselves we should lose also the information you will
+     have acquired. By returning safely with that, you may enable us to
+     renew the essay with better calculated means. To your own
+     discretion, therefore, must be left the degree of danger you may
+     risk, and the point at which you should decline, only saying, we
+     wish you to err on the side of your safety, and to bring back your
+     party safe, even if it be with less information.
+
+     "As far up the Missouri as the white settlements extend, an
+     intercourse will probably be found to exist between them and the
+     Spanish posts of St. Louis opposite Cahokia, or St. Genevieve
+     opposite Kaskaskia. From still further up the river the traders may
+     furnish a conveyance for letters. Beyond that you may perhaps be
+     able to engage Indians to bring letters for the government to
+     Cahokia, or Kaskaskia, on promising that they shall there receive
+     such special compensation as you shall have stipulated with them.
+     Avail yourself of these means to communicate to us, at seasonable
+     intervals, a copy of your journal, notes and observations of every
+     kind, putting into cypher whatever might do injury if betrayed.
+
+     "Should you reach the Pacific ocean, inform yourself of the
+     circumstances which may decide whether the furs of those parts may
+     not be collected as advantageously at the head of the Missouri
+     (convenient as is supposed to the waters of the Colorado and Oregan
+     or Columbia) as at Nootka Sound, or any other point of that coast;
+     and that trade be consequently conducted through the Missouri and
+     United States more beneficially than by the circumnavigation now
+     practised.
+
+     "On your arrival on that coast, endeavour to learn if there be any
+     port within your reach frequented by the sea vessels of any nation,
+     and to send two of your trusty people back by sea, in such way as
+     shall appear practicable, with a copy of your notes; and should you
+     be of opinion that the return of your party by the way they went
+     will be imminently dangerous, then ship the whole, and return by
+     sea, by the way either of Cape Horn, or the Cape of Good Hope, as
+     you shall be able. As you will be without money, clothes, or
+     provisions, you must endeavour to use the credit of the United
+     States to obtain them; for which purpose open letters of credit
+     shall be furnished you, authorizing you to draw on the executive of
+     the United States, or any of its officers, in any part of the
+     world, on which draughts can be disposed of, and to apply with our
+     recommendations to the consuls, agents, merchants, or citizens of
+     any nation with which we have intercourse, assuring them, in our
+     name, that any aids they may furnish you shall be honourably
+     repaid, and on demand. Our consuls, Thomas Hewes, at Batavia, in
+     Java, William Buchanan, in the Isles of France and Bourbon, and
+     John Elmslie, at the Cape of Good Hope, will be able to supply your
+     necessities, by draughts on us.
+
+     "Should you find it safe to return by the way you go, after sending
+     two of your party round by sea, or with your whole party, if no
+     conveyance by sea can be found, do so; making such observations on
+     your return as may serve to supply, correct, or confirm those made
+     on your outward journey.
+
+     "On reentering the United States and reaching a place of safety,
+     discharge any of your attendants who may desire and deserve it,
+     procuring for them immediate payment of all arrears of pay and
+     clothing which may have incurred since their departure, and assure
+     them that they shall be recommended to the liberality of the
+     legislature for the grant of a soldier's portion of land each, as
+     proposed in my message to congress, and repair yourself, with your
+     papers, to the seat of government.
+
+     "To provide, on the accident of your death, against anarchy,
+     dispersion, and the consequent danger to your party, and total
+     failure of the enterprise, you are hereby authorized, by any
+     instrument signed and written in your own hand, to name the person
+     among them who shall succeed to the command on your decease, and by
+     like instruments to change the nomination, from time to time, as
+     further experience of the characters accompanying you shall point
+     out superior fitness; and all the powers and authorities given to
+     yourself are, in the event of your death, transferred to, and
+     vested in the successor so named, with further power to him and his
+     successors, in like manner to name each his successor, who, on the
+     death of his predecessor, shall be invested with all the powers and
+     authorities given to yourself. Given under my hand at the city of
+     Washington, this twentieth day of June, 1803.
+
+                                        "THOMAS JEFFERSON,
+                          "_President of the United States of America_."
+
+
+While these things were going on here, the country of Louisiana, lately
+ceded by Spain to France, had been the subject of negotiation at Paris
+between us and this last power; and had actually been transferred to us
+by treaties executed at Paris on the thirtieth of April. This
+information, received about the first day of July, increased infinitely
+the interest we felt in the expedition, and lessened the apprehensions
+of interruption from other powers. Every thing in this quarter being now
+prepared, captain Lewis left Washington on the fifth of July, 1803, and
+proceeded to Pittsburg, where other articles had been ordered to be
+provided for him. The men too were to be selected from the military
+stations on the Ohio. Delays of preparation, difficulties of navigation
+down the Ohio, and other untoward obstructions, retarded his arrival at
+Cahokia until the season was so far advanced as to render it prudent to
+suspend his entering the Missouri before the ice should break up in the
+succeeding spring.
+
+From this time his journal, now published, will give the history of his
+journey to and from the Pacific ocean, until his return to St. Louis on
+the twenty-third of September, 1806. Never did a similar event excite
+more joy through the United States. The humblest of its citizens had
+taken a lively interest in the issue of this journey, and looked forward
+with impatience for the information it would furnish. Their anxieties
+too for the safety of the corps had been kept in a state of excitement
+by lugubrious rumours, circulated from time to time on uncertain
+authorities, and uncontradicted by letters, or other direct information,
+from the time they had left the Mandan towns, on their ascent up the
+river in April of the preceding year, 1805, until their actual return to
+St. Louis.
+
+It was the middle of February, 1807, before captain Lewis, with his
+companion captain Clarke, reached the city of Washington, where congress
+was then in session. That body granted to the two chiefs and their
+followers the donation of lands which they had been encouraged to expect
+in reward of their toil and dangers. Captain Lewis was soon after
+appointed governor of Louisiana, and captain Clarke a general of its
+militia, and agent of the United States for Indian affairs in that
+department.
+
+A considerable time intervened before the governor's arrival at St.
+Louis. He found the territory distracted by feuds and contentions among
+the officers of the government, and the people themselves divided by
+these into factions and parties. He determined at once to take no side
+with either; but to use every endeavour to conciliate and harmonize
+them. The even-handed justice he administered to all soon established a
+respect for his person and authority; and perseverance and time wore
+down animosities, and reunited the citizens again into one family.
+
+Governor Lewis had, from early life, been subject to hypochondriac
+affections. It was a constitutional disposition in all the nearer
+branches of the family of his name, and was more immediately inherited
+by him from his father. They had not, however, been so strong as to give
+uneasiness to his family. While he lived with me in Washington I
+observed at times sensible depressions of mind: but knowing their
+constitutional source, I estimated their course by what I had seen in
+the family. During his western expedition, the constant exertion which
+that required of all the faculties of body and mind, suspended these
+distressing affections; but after his establishment at St. Louis in
+sedentary occupations, they returned upon him with redoubled vigour, and
+began seriously to alarm his friends. He was in a paroxysm of one of
+these, when his affairs rendered it necessary for him to go to
+Washington. He proceeded to the Chickasaw Bluffs, where he arrived on
+the sixteenth of September, 1809, with a view of continuing his journey
+thence by water. Mr. Neely, agent of the United States with the
+Chickasaw Indians, arriving there two days after, found him extremely
+indisposed, and betraying at times some symptoms of a derangement of
+mind. The rumours of a war with England, and apprehensions that he might
+lose the papers he was bringing on, among which were the vouchers of his
+public accounts, and the journals and papers of his western expedition,
+induced him here to change his mind, and to take his course by land
+through the Chickasaw country. Although he appeared somewhat relieved,
+Mr. Neely kindly determined to accompany and watch over him.
+Unfortunately, at their encampment, after having passed the Tennessee
+one day's journey, they lost two horses, which obliging Mr. Neely to
+halt for their recovery, the governor proceeded, under a promise to wait
+for him at the house of the first white inhabitant on his road. He
+stopped at the house of a Mr. Grinder, who not being at home, his wife,
+alarmed at the symptoms of derangement she discovered, gave him up the
+house and retired to rest herself in an out-house, the governor's and
+Neely's servants lodging in another. About three o'clock in the night he
+did the deed which plunged his friends into affliction, and deprived his
+country of one of her most valued citizens, whose valour and
+intelligence would have been now employed in avenging the wrongs of his
+country, and in emulating by land the splendid deeds which have honoured
+her arms on the ocean. It lost too to the nation the benefit of
+receiving from his own hand the narrative now offered them of his
+sufferings and successes, in endeavouring to extend for them the
+boundaries of science, and to present to their knowledge that vast and
+fertile country, which their sons are destined to fill with arts, with
+science, with freedom and happiness.
+
+To this melancholy close of the life of one, whom posterity will declare
+not to have lived in vain, I have only to add, that all the facts I have
+stated are either known to myself, or communicated by his family or
+others, for whose truth I have no hesitation to make myself responsible;
+and I conclude with tendering you the assurances of my respect and
+consideration.
+
+                                                  TH. JEFFERSON.
+
+Mr. PAUL ALLEN, Philadelphia.
+
+
+
+
+                                CONTENTS.
+
+                                 VOL. I.
+
+
+                                CHAPTER I.
+
+          The party set out on the expedition and pass Wood
+          river. Description of the town of St. Charles. Osage
+          Woman river. Gasconade and Osage rivers described.
+          Character of the Osage Indians; curious traditionary
+          account of their origin. The party proceed and pass
+          the Mine river. The two Charitons. The Kanzas,
+          Nodawa, Newahaw, Neeshuabatona, Little Nemahar, each
+          of which are particularly described. They encamp at
+          the mouth of the river Platte. A particular
+          description of the surrounding country. The various
+          creeks, bays, islands, prairies, &c. given in the
+          course of the route.                                    1
+
+
+                               CHAPTER II.
+
+          Some account of the Pawnee Indians. Council held
+          with the Otto and Missouri Indians. Council held
+          with another party of the Ottoes. Death of sergeant
+          Floyd. The party encamp near the mouth of Whitestone
+          river. The character of the Missouri, with the
+          rivers that enter it. The surrounding country. The
+          various islands, bays, creeks, &c. given in the
+          course of the expedition.                              32
+
+
+                              CHAPTER III.
+
+          Whimsical instance of superstition of the Sioux
+          Indians. Council held with the Sioux. Character of
+          that tribe, their manners, &c. A ridiculous instance
+          of their heroism. Ancient fortifications. Quieurre
+          river described. Vast herds of Buffaloe. Account of
+          the Petit Chien or Little Dog. Narrow escape of
+          George Shannon. Description of White river.
+          Surprising fleetness of the antelope. Pass the river
+          of the Sioux. Description of the Grand Le Tour, or
+          Great Bend. Encamp on the Teton river.                 52
+
+
+                               CHAPTER IV.
+
+          Council held with the Tetons. Their manners, dances,
+          &c. Cheyenne river described. Council held with the
+          Ricara Indians. Their manners and habits. Strange
+          instance of Ricara idolatry. Another instance.
+          Cannonball river. Arrival among the Mandans.
+          Character of the surrounding country, and of the
+          creeks, islands, &c.                                   82
+
+
+                                CHAPTER V.
+
+          Council held with the Mandans. A prairie on fire,
+          and a singular instance of preservation. Peace
+          established between the Mandans and Ricaras. The
+          party encamp for the winter. Indian mode of catching
+          goats. Beautiful appearance of northern lights.
+          Friendly character of the Indians. Some account of
+          the Mandans. The Anahaways and the Minnetarees. The
+          party acquire the confidence of the Mandans by
+          taking part in their controversy with the Sioux.
+          Religion of the Mandans, and their singular
+          conception of the term medicine. Their tradition.
+          The sufferings of the party from the severity of the
+          season. Indian game of billiards described.
+          Character of the Missouri, of the surrounding
+          country, and of the rivers, creeks, islands, &c.      118
+
+
+                               CHAPTER VI.
+
+          The party increase in the favour of the Mandans.
+          Description of a buffaloe dance. Medicine dance. The
+          fortitude with which the Indians bear the severity
+          of the season. Distress of the party for want of
+          provisions. The great importance of the blacksmith
+          in procuring it. Depredations of the Sioux. The
+          homage paid to the medicine stone. Summary act of
+          justice among the Minnetarees. The process by which
+          the Mandans and Ricaras make beads. Character of the
+          Missouri, of the surrounding country, and of the
+          rivers, creeks, islands, &c.                          148
+
+
+                               CHAPTER VII.
+
+          Indian method of attacking the buffaloe on the ice.
+          An enumeration of the presents sent to the president
+          of the United States. The party are visited by a
+          Ricara chief. They leave their encampment, and
+          proceed on their journey. Description of the Little
+          Missouri. Some account of the Assiniboins. Their
+          mode of burying the dead. Whiteearth river
+          described. Great quantity of salt discovered on its
+          banks. Yellowstone river described. A particular
+          account of the country at the confluence of the
+          Yellowstone and Missouri. Description of the
+          Missouri, the surrounding country, and of the
+          rivers, creeks, islands, &c.                          174
+
+
+                               CHAPTER VIII.
+
+          Unusual appearance of salt. The formidable character
+          of the white bear. Porcupine river described.
+          Beautiful appearance of the surrounding country.
+          Immense quantities of game. Milk river described.
+          Extraordinary character of Bigdry river. An instance
+          of uncommon tenacity of life in a white bear. Narrow
+          escape of one of the party from that animal. A still
+          more remarkable instance. Muscleshell river
+          described.                                            199
+
+
+                               CHAPTER IX.
+
+          The party continue their route. Description of
+          Judith river. Indian mode of taking the buffaloe.
+          Slaughter river described. Phenomena of nature. Of
+          walls on the banks of the Missouri. The party encamp
+          on the banks of the river to ascertain which of the
+          streams constitute the Missouri. Captain Lewis
+          leaves the party to explore the northern fork, and
+          captain Clarke explores the southern. The
+          surrounding country described in the route of
+          captain Lewis. Narrow escape of one of his party.
+                                                                225
+
+
+                               CHAPTER X.
+
+          Return of captain Lewis. Account of captain Clarke's
+          researches with his exploring party. Perilous
+          situation of one of his party. Tansy river
+          described. The party still believing the southern
+          fork the Missouri, captain Lewis is resolves to
+          ascend it. Mode of making a place to deposit
+          provisions, called cache. Captain Lewis explores the
+          southern fork. Falls of the Missouri discovered,
+          which ascertains the question. Romantic scenery of
+          the surrounding country. Narrow escape of captain
+          Lewis. The main body under captain Clarke approach
+          within five miles of the falls, and prepare for
+          making a portage over the rapids.                     251
+
+
+                               CHAPTER XI.
+
+          Description and romantic appearance of the Missouri
+          at the junction of the Medicine river. The
+          difficulty of transporting the baggage at the falls.
+          The party employed in the construction of a boat of
+          skins. The embarrassments they had to encounter for
+          the want of proper materials. During the work the
+          party much troubled by white bears. Violent
+          hail-storm, and providential escape of captain
+          Clarke and his party. Description of a remarkable
+          fountain. Singular explosion heard from the Black
+          mountains. The boat found to be insufficient, and
+          the serious disappointment of the party. Captain
+          Clarke undertakes to repair the damage by building
+          canoes, and accomplishes the task.                    275
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XII.
+
+          The party embark on board the canoes. Description of
+          Smith's river. Character of the country, &c.
+          Dearborne's river described. Captain Clarke precedes
+          the party for the purpose of discovering the Indians
+          of the Rocky mountains. Magnificent rocky
+          appearances on the borders of the river denominated
+          the Gates of the Rocky mountains. Captain Clarke
+          arrives at the three forks of the Missouri without
+          overtaking the Indians. The party arrive at the
+          three forks, of which a peculiar and interesting
+          description is given.                                 301
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XIII.
+
+          The name of the Missouri changed, as the river now
+          divides itself into three forks, one of which is
+          called after Jefferson, the other Madison, and the
+          other after Gallatin. Their general character. The
+          party ascend the Jefferson branch. Description of
+          the river Philosophy which enters into the
+          Jefferson. Captain Lewis and a small party go in
+          advance in search of the Shoshonees. Description of
+          the country, &c. bordering on the river. Captain
+          Lewis still preceding the main party in quest of the
+          Shoshonees. A singular accident which prevented
+          captain Clarke from following captain Lewis's
+          advice, and ascending the middle fork of the river.
+          Description of Philanthropy river, another stream
+          running into the Jefferson. Captain Lewis and a
+          small party having been unsuccessful in their first
+          attempt, set off a second time in quest of the
+          Shoshonees.                                           328
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XIV.
+
+          Captain Lewis proceeds before the main body in
+          search of the Shoshonees; his ill success on the
+          first interview. The party with captain Lewis at
+          length discover the source of the Missouri. Captain
+          Clarke with the main body still employed in
+          ascending the Missouri or Jefferson river. Captain
+          Lewis's second interview with the Shoshonees
+          attended with success. The interesting ceremonies of
+          his first introduction to the natives, detailed at
+          large. Their hospitality. Their mode of hunting the
+          antelope. The difficulties encountered by captain
+          Clarke and the main body in ascending the river. The
+          suspicions entertained of captain Lewis by the
+          Shoshonees, and his mode of allaying them. The
+          ravenous appetites of the savages illustrated by
+          singular adventure. The Indians still jealous, and
+          the great pains taken by captain Lewis to preserve
+          their confidence. Captain Clarke arrives with the
+          main body exhausted by the difficulties they
+          underwent.                                            354
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XV.
+
+          Affecting interview between the wife of Chaboneau
+          and the chief of the Shoshonees. Council held with
+          that nation, and favourable result. The extreme
+          navigable point of the Missouri mentioned. General
+          character of the river and of the country through
+          which it passes. Captain Clarke in exploring the
+          source of the Columbia falls in company with another
+          party of Shoshonees. The geographical information
+          acquired from one of that party. Their manner of
+          catching fish. The party reach Lewis river. The
+          difficulties which captain Clarke had to encounter
+          in his route. Friendship and hospitality of the
+          Shoshonees. The party with captain Lewis employed in
+          making saddles, and preparing for the journey.        381
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XVI.
+
+          Contest between Drewyer and a Shoshonee. The
+          fidelity and honour of that tribe. The party set out
+          on their journey. The conduct of Cameahwait
+          reproved, and himself reconciled. The easy
+          parturition of the Shoshonee women. History of this
+          nation. Their terror of the Pawkees. Their
+          government and family economy in their treatment of
+          their women. Their complaints of Spanish treachery.
+          Description of their weapons of warfare. Their
+          curious mode of making a shield. The caparison of
+          their horses. The dress of the men and of the women
+          particularly described. Their mode of acquiring new
+          names.                                                407
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XVII.
+
+          The party, after procuring horses from the
+          Shoshonees, proceed on their journey through the
+          mountains. The difficulties and dangers of the
+          route. A council held with another band of the
+          Shoshonees, of whom some account is given. They are
+          reduced to the necessity of killing their horses for
+          food. Captain Clarke with a small party precedes the
+          main body in quest of food, and is hospitably
+          received by the Pierced-nose Indians. Arrival of the
+          main body amongst this tribe, with whom a council is
+          held. They resolve to perform the remainder of their
+          journey in canoes. Sickness of the party. They
+          descend the Kooskooskee to its junction with Lewis
+          river, after passing several dangerous rapids. Short
+          description of the manners and dress of the
+          Pierced-nose Indians.                                 435
+
+
+
+
+                      LEWIS AND CLARKE'S EXPEDITION
+
+                             UP THE MISSOURI.
+
+                                CHAP. I.
+
+     The party set out on the expedition and pass Wood
+     river--Description of the town of St. Charles--Osage Woman
+     river--Gasconade and Osage Rivers described--Character of the
+     Osage Indians--Curious traditionary account of their Origin--The
+     party proceed and pass the Mine river--The two Charitons--The
+     Kanzas, Nodawa, Newahaw, Neeshnabatona, Little Nemahar, each of
+     which are particularly described--They encamp at the mouth of the
+     river Platte--A particular description of the surrounding
+     country--The various Creeks, Bays, Islands, Prairies, &c., given
+     in the course of the route.
+
+
+On the acquisition of Louisiana, in the year 1803, the attention of the
+government of the United States, was early directed towards exploring
+and improving the new territory. Accordingly in the summer of the same
+year, an expedition was planned by the president for the purpose of
+discovering the courses and sources of the Missouri, and the most
+convenient water communication thence to the Pacific ocean. His private
+secretary captain Meriwether Lewis, and captain William Clarke, both
+officers of the army of the United States, were associated in the
+command of this enterprize. After receiving the requisite instructions,
+captain Lewis left the seat of government, and being joined by captain
+Clarke at Louisville, in Kentucky, proceeded to St. Louis, where they
+arrived in the month of December. Their original* intention was to pass
+the winter at La Charrette, the highest settlement on the Missouri. But
+the Spanish commandant of the province, not having received an official
+account of its transfer to the United States, was obliged by the general
+policy of his government, to prevent strangers from passing through the
+Spanish territory. They therefore encamped at the mouth of Wood river,
+on the eastern side of the Mississippi, out of his jurisdiction, where
+they passed the winter in disciplining the men, and making the necessary
+preparations for setting out early in the Spring, before which the
+cession was officially announced. The party consisted of nine young men
+from Kentucky, fourteen soldiers of the United States army who
+volunteered their services, two French watermen--an interpreter and
+hunter--and a black servant belonging to captain Clarke--All these,
+except the last, were enlisted to serve as privates during the
+expedition, and three sergeants appointed from amongst them by the
+captains. In addition to these were engaged a corporal and six soldiers,
+and nine watermen to accompany the expedition as far as the Mandan
+nation, in order to assist in carrying the stores, or repelling an
+attack which was most to be apprehended between Wood river and that
+tribe. The necessary stores were subdivided into seven bales, and one
+box, containing a small portion of each article in case of accident.
+They consisted of a great variety of clothing, working utensils, locks,
+flints, powder, ball, and articles of the greatest use. To these were
+added fourteen bales and one box of Indian presents, distributed in the
+same manner, and composed of richly laced coats and other articles of
+dress, medals, flags, knives, and tomahawks for the chiefs--ornaments of
+different kinds, particularly beads, lookingglasses, handkerchiefs,
+paints, and generally such articles as were deemed best calculated for
+the taste of the Indians. The party was to embark on board of three
+boats: the first was a keel boat fifty-five feet long, drawing three
+feet water, carrying one large squaresail and twenty-two oars, a deck of
+ten feet in the bow, and stern formed a forecastle and cabin, while the
+middle was covered by lockers, which might be raised so as to form a
+breast-work in case of attack. This was accompanied by two perioques or
+open boats, one of six and the other of seven oars. Two horses were at
+the same time to be led along the banks of the river for the purpose of
+bringing home game, or hunting in case of scarcity.
+
+Of the proceedings of this expedition, the following is a succinct and
+circumstantial narrative.
+
+All the preparations being completed, we left our encampment on Monday,
+May 14th, 1804. This spot is at the mouth of Wood river, a small stream
+which empties itself into the Mississippi, opposite to the entrance of
+the Missouri. It is situated in latitude 38 degrees 55' 19-6/10" north,
+and longitude from Greenwich, 89 degrees 57' 45". On both sides of the
+Mississippi the land for two or three miles is rich and level, but
+gradually swells into a high pleasant country, with less timber on the
+western than on the eastern side, but all susceptible of cultivation.
+The point which separates the two rivers on the north, extends for
+fifteen or twenty miles, the greater part of which is an open level
+plain, in which the people of the neighbourhood cultivate what little
+grain they raise. Not being able to set sail before four o'clock P.M.,
+we did not make more than four miles, and encamped on the first island
+opposite a small creek called Cold Water.
+
+May 15. The rain, which had continued yesterday and last night, ceased
+this morning. We then proceeded, and after passing two small islands
+about ten miles further, stopped for the night at Piper's landing,
+opposite another island. The water is here very rapid and the banks
+falling in. We found that our boat was too heavily laden in the stern,
+in consequence of which she ran on logs three times to-day. It became
+necessary to throw the greatest weight on the bow of the boat, a
+precaution very necessary in ascending both the Missouri and
+Mississippi rivers, in the beds of which, there lie great quantities of
+concealed timber.
+
+The next morning we set sail at five o'clock. At the distance of a few
+miles, we passed a remarkable large coal hill on the north side, called
+by the French La Charbonniere, and arrived at the town of St. Charles.
+Here we remained a few days.
+
+St. Charles is a small town on the north bank of the Missouri, about
+twenty-one miles from its confluence with the Mississippi. It is
+situated in a narrow plain, sufficiently high to protect it from the
+annual risings of the river in the month of June, and at the foot of a
+range of small hills, which have occasioned its being called Petite
+Cote, a name by which it is more known to the French than by that of St.
+Charles. One principal street, about a mile in length and running
+parallel with the river, divides the town, which is composed of nearly
+one hundred small wooden houses, besides a chapel. The inhabitants,
+about four hundred and fifty in number, are chiefly descendants from the
+French of Canada; and, in their manners, they unite all the careless
+gayety, and the amiable hospitality of the best times of France: yet,
+like most of their countrymen in America, they are but ill qualified for
+the rude life of a frontier; not that they are without talent, for they
+possess much natural genius and vivacity; nor that they are destitute of
+enterprize, for their hunting excursions are long, laborious, and
+hazardous: but their exertions are all desultory; their industry is
+without system, and without perseverance. The surrounding country,
+therefore, though rich, is not, in general, well cultivated; the
+inhabitants chiefly subsisting by hunting and trade with the Indians,
+and confine their culture to gardening, in which they excel.
+
+Being joined by captain Lewis, who had been detained by business at St.
+Louis, we again set sail on Monday, May 21st, in the afternoon, but were
+prevented by wind and rain from going more than about three miles, when
+we encamped on the upper point of an island, nearly opposite a creek
+which falls in on the south side.
+
+On the 22d we made about eighteen miles, passing several small farms on
+the bank of the river, a number of islands, and a large creek on the
+south side, called Bonhomme, or Goodman's river. A small number of
+emigrants from the United States have settled on the sides of this
+creek, which are very fertile. We also passed some high lands, and
+encamped, on the north side, near a small creek. Here we met with a camp
+of Kickapoo Indians who had left us at St. Charles, with a promise of
+procuring us some provisions by the time we overtook them. They now made
+us a present of four deer, and we gave them in return two quarts of
+whiskey. This tribe reside on the heads of the Kaskaskia and Illinois
+river, on the other side of the Mississippi, but occasionally hunt on
+the Missouri.
+
+May 23. Two miles from our camp of last night, we reached a river
+emptying itself on the north side, called Osage Woman river. It is about
+thirty yards wide, and has now a settlement of thirty or forty families
+from the United States. About a mile and a half beyond this is a large
+cave, on the south side at the foot of cliffs nearby three hundred feet
+high, overhanging the water, which becomes very swift at this place. The
+cave is one hundred and twenty feet wide, forty feet deep, and twenty
+high, it is known by the name of the Tavern, among the traders who have
+written their names on the rock, and painted some images which command
+the homage of the Indians and French. About a little further we passed a
+small creek called Tavern creek, and encamped on the south side of the
+river, having gone nine miles.
+
+Early the next morning we ascended a very difficult rapid, called the
+Devil's Race Ground, where the current sets for half a mile against some
+projecting rocks on the south side. We were less fortunate in attempting
+a second place of equal difficulty. Passing near the southern shore, the
+bank fell in so fast as to oblige us to cross the river instantly,
+between the northern side and a sandbar which is constantly moving and
+banking with the violence of the current. The boat struck on it, and
+would have upset immediately, if the men had not jumped into the water
+and held her, till the sand washed from under her. We encamped on the
+south side, having ascended ten miles, and the next day, May 25, passed
+on the south side the mouth of Wood river, on the north, two small
+creeks and several islands, and stopped for the night at the entrance of
+a creek on the north side, called by the French La Charrette, ten miles
+from our last encampment, and a little above a small village of the same
+name. It consists of seven small houses, and as many poor families who
+have fixed themselves here for the convenience of trade, and form the
+last establishment of whites on the Missouri. It rained last night, yet
+we found this morning that the river had fallen several inches.
+
+May 26. The wind being favourable we made eighteen miles to-day. We
+passed in the morning several islands, the largest of which is Buffaloe
+island, separated from the southern side by a small channel which
+receives the waters of Buffaloe creek. On the same side is Shepherd's
+creek, a little beyond which we encamped on the northern side. The next
+day we sailed along a large island called Otter island, on the northern
+side, extending nearly ten miles in length, narrow but high in its
+situation, and one of the most fertile in the whole river. Between it
+and the northern shore, three small creeks, one of which has the same
+name with the island, empty themselves. On the southern shore is a creek
+twenty yards wide, called Ash creek. In the course of the day we met two
+canoes loaded with furs, which had been two months on their route, from
+the Mahar nation, residing more than seven hundred miles up the
+river--one large raft from the Pawnees on the river Platte, and three
+others from the Grand Osage river. At the distance of fifteen miles we
+encamped on a willow island, at the entrance of the river Gasconade.
+This river falls into the Missouri from the south, one hundred miles
+from the Mississippi. Its length is about one hundred and fifty miles in
+a course generally northeast through a hilly country. On its banks are a
+number of saltpetre caves, and it is believed some mines of lead in the
+vicinity. Its width at the mouth is one hundred and fifty-seven yards,
+and its depth nineteen feet.
+
+Here we halted for the purpose of hunting and drying our provisions, and
+making the necessary celestial observations. This being completed, we
+set sail on the 29th at four o'clock, and at four miles distance
+encamped on the south-side, above a small creek, called Deer creek. The
+next day, 30th, we set out early, and at two miles distant reached a
+large cave, on the north, called Montbrun's tavern, after a French
+trader of that name, just above a creek called after the same person.
+Beyond this is a large island, and at the distance of four miles, Rush
+creek coming in from the south, at eleven, Big-muddy river on the north,
+about fifty yards wide; three miles further, is Little-muddy river on
+the same side, opposite to which we encamped at the mouth of Grindstone
+creek. The rain which began last night continued through the day,
+accompanied with high wind and some hail. The river has been rising fast
+for two days, and the country around appears full of water. Along the
+sides of the river to day we observe much timber, the cotton wood, the
+sycamore, hickory, white walnut, some grapevines, and rushes--the high
+west wind and rain compelled us to remain all the next day, May 31. In
+the afternoon a boat came down from the Grand Osage river, bringing a
+letter from a person sent to the Osage nation on the Arkansaw river,
+which mentioned that the letter announcing the cession of Louisiana was
+committed to the flames--that the Indians would not believe that the
+Americans were owners of that country, and disregarded St. Louis and its
+supplies. The party was occupied in hunting, in the course of which,
+they caught in the woods several very large rats. We set sail early the
+next morning, June 1st, and at six miles distant passed Bear creek, a
+stream of about twenty-five yards width; but the wind being ahead and
+the current rapid, we were unable to make more than thirteen miles to
+the mouth of the Osage river; where we encamped and remained the
+following day, for the purpose of making celestial observations. The
+Osage river empties itself into the Missouri, at one hundred and
+thirty-three miles distance from the mouth of the latter river. Its
+general course is west and west southwest through a rich and level
+country. At the junction the Missouri is about eight hundred and
+seventy-five yards wide, and the Osage three hundred and ninety-seven.
+The low point of junction is in latitude 38 degrees 31' 16", and at a
+short distance from it is a high commanding position, whence we enjoyed
+a delightful prospect of the country.
+
+The Osage river gives or owes its name to a nation inhabiting its banks
+at a considerable distance from this place. Their present name however,
+seems to have originated from the French traders, for both among
+themselves and their neighbours they are called the Wasbashas. They
+number between twelve and thirteen hundred warriors, and consist of
+three tribes: the Great Osages of about five hundred warriors, living in
+a village on the south bank of the river--the Little Osages, of nearly
+half that number, residing at the distance of six miles from them--and
+the Arkansaw band, a colony of Osages, of six hundred warriors, who left
+them some years ago, under the command of a chief called the Bigfoot,
+and settled on the Vermillion river, a branch of the Arkansaw. In person
+the Osages are among the largest and best formed Indians, and are said
+to possess fine military capacities; but residing as they do in
+villages, and having made considerable advance in agriculture, they seem
+less addicted to war, than their northern neighbours, to whom the use of
+rifles gives a great superiority. Among the peculiarities of this
+people, there is nothing more remarkable than the tradition relative to
+their origin. According to universal belief, the founder of the nation
+was a snail passing a quiet existence along the banks of the Osage, till
+a high flood swept him down to the Missouri, and left him exposed on the
+shore. The heat of the sun at length ripened him into a man, but with
+the change of his nature, he had not forgotten his native seats on the
+Osage, towards which, he immediately bent his way. He was however soon
+overtaken by hunger, and fatigue, when happily the Great Spirit
+appeared, and giving him a bow and arrow, showed him how to kill and
+cook deer, and cover himself with the skin. He then proceeded to his
+original residence, but as he approached the river, he was met by a
+beaver, who inquired haughtily who he was, and by what authority he came
+to disturb his possession. The Osage answered that the river was his
+own, for he had once lived on its borders. As they stood disputing, the
+daughter of the beaver came, and having by her entreaties reconciled her
+father to this young stranger, it was proposed that the Osage should
+marry the young beaver, and share with her family the enjoyment of the
+river. The Osage readily consented, and from this happy union there soon
+came the village and the nation of the Wasbasha, or Osages, who have
+ever since preserved a pious reverence for their ancestors, abstaining
+from the chace of the beaver, because in killing that animal, they
+killed a brother of the Osage. Of late years, however, since the trade
+with the whites has rendered beaver skins more valuable, the sanctity of
+these maternal relatives has visibly reduced, and the poor animals have
+nearly lost all the privileges of kindred.
+
+On the afternoon of June 3, we proceeded, and at three miles distant,
+reached a creek called Cupboard creek, from a rock of that appearance
+near its entrance. Two miles further we encamped at Moreau creek, a
+stream of twenty yards width, on the southern side. The next morning, we
+passed at an early hour, Cedar island on the north, so called from the
+abundance of the tree of that name; near which is a small creek, named
+Nightingale creek, from a bird of that species, who sang for us during
+the night. Beyond Cedar island, are some others of a smaller extent, and
+at seven miles distance a creek fifteen or twenty yards wide, entering
+from the north, and known by the name of Cedar creek. At seven and a
+half miles further, we passed on the south side another creek, which we
+called Mast creek, from the circumstance of our mast being broken by
+running under a concealed tree; a little above is another creek on the
+left, one mile beyond which we encamped on the southern shore under high
+projecting cliffs. The French had reported that lead ore was to be found
+in this place, but on examining the hills, we could discern no
+appearance of that mineral. Along the river on the south, is a low land
+covered with rushes, and high nettles, and near the mouths of the
+creeks, supplied with oak, ash, and walnut timber. On the north the land
+is rich and well situated. We made seventeen and a half miles this day.
+The river is falling slowly. We continued our route the next morning
+early: a small creek called Lead creek, on the south; another on the
+north, known to the French by the name of Little Good Woman's creek, and
+again Big Rock creek on the south were the only streams we passed this
+morning. At eleven o'clock we met a raft made of two canoes joined
+together, in which two French traders were descending, from eighty
+leagues up the river Kanzas, where they had wintered, and caught great
+quantities of beaver, but had lost much of their game by fires from the
+prairies. They told us that the Kanzas nation is now hunting buffaloe in
+the plains, having passed the last winter in this river. Two miles
+further, we reached on the south Little Manitou creek, which takes its
+name from a strange figure resembling the bust of a man, with the horns
+of a stag, painted on a projecting rock, which may represent some spirit
+or deity. Near this is a sandbar extending several miles, which renders
+the navigation difficult, and a small creek called Sand creek on the
+south, where we stopped for dinner, and gathered wild cresses and tongue
+grass from the sandbar. The rapidity of the currents added to our having
+broken our mast, prevented our going more than twelve and a half miles.
+The scouts and hunters whom we always kept out, report that they have
+seen fresh tracks of Indians. The next morning we left our camp, which
+was on the south side, opposite to a large island in the middle of the
+river, and at five miles reached a creek on the north side, of about
+twenty yards wide, called Split Rock creek, from a fissure in the point
+of a neighbouring rock. Three miles beyond this, on the south is Saline
+river, it is about thirty yards wide, and has its name from the number
+of salt licks, and springs, which render its water brackish; the river
+is very rapid and the banks falling in. After leaving Saline creek, we
+passed one large island and several smaller ones, having made fourteen
+miles. The water rose a foot during the last night.
+
+The next day, June 7, we passed at four and a half miles Big Manitou
+creek, near which is a limestone rock inlaid with flint of various
+colours, and embellished, or at least covered with uncouth paintings of
+animals and inscriptions. We landed to examine it, but found the place
+occupied by a nest of rattlesnakes, of which we killed three. We also
+examined some licks and springs of salt water, two or three miles up
+this creek. We then proceeded by some small willow islands, and encamped
+at the mouth of Good Woman river on the north. It is about thirty-five
+yards wide, and said to be navigable for boats several leagues. The
+hunters, who had hitherto given us only deer, brought in this evening
+three bears, and had seen some indication of buffaloe. We had come
+fourteen miles.
+
+June 8, we saw several small willow islands, and a creek on the south,
+near which are a number of deerlicks; at nine miles distance we came to
+Mine river. This river, which falls into the Missouri from the south,
+is said to be navigable for boats eighty or ninety miles, and is about
+seventy yards wide at its mouth. It forks about five or six leagues from
+the Missouri, and at the point of junction are some very rich salt
+springs; the west branch in particular, is so much impregnated, that,
+for twenty miles, the water is not palatable: several branches of the
+Manitou and Good Woman are equally tinctured. The French report also,
+that lead ore has been found on different parts of the river. We made
+several excursions near the river through the low rich country on its
+banks, and after dinner went on to the island of Mills, where we
+encamped. We met with a party of three hunters from the Sioux river;
+they had been out for twelve months, and collected about nine hundred
+dollars worth of peltries and furs. We ascended this river twelve miles.
+
+On the 9th, we set out early, and reached a cliff of rocks, called the
+Arrow Rock, near to which is a prairie called the Prairies of Arrows,
+and Arrow creek, a small stream about eight yards wide, whose source is
+in the adjoining prairies on the south. At this cliff the Missouri is
+confined within a bed of two hundred yards; and about four miles to the
+south east is a large lick and salt spring of great strength. About
+three miles further is Blackbird creek on the north side, opposite to
+which, is an island and a prairie inclosing a small lake. Five miles
+beyond this we encamped on the south side, after making, in the course
+of the day, thirteen miles. The land on the north is a high rich plain.
+On the south it is also even, of a good quality, and rising from fifty
+to one hundred feet.
+
+The next morning, 10th, we passed Deer creek, and at the distance of
+five miles, the two rivers called by the French the two Charatons, a
+corruption of Thieraton, the first of which is thirty, the second
+seventy yards wide, and enter the Missouri together. They are both
+navigable for boats: the country through which they pass is broken,
+rich, and thickly covered with timber. The Ayauway nation, consisting
+of three hundred men, have a village near its head-waters on the river
+De Moines. Farther on we passed a large island called _Chicot_ or Stump
+Island, and encamped on the south, after making ten miles. A head wind
+forced us to remain there all the next day, during which we dried the
+meat we had killed, and examined the surrounding country, which consists
+of good land, well watered, and supplied with timber: the prairies also
+differ from those eastward of the Mississippi, inasmuch as the latter
+are generally without any covering except grass, whilst the former
+abound with hazel, grapes and other fruits, among which is the Osage
+plum of a superior size and quality. On the morning of the 12th, we
+passed through difficult places in the river, and reached Plum creek on
+the south side. At one o'clock, we met two rafts loaded, the one with
+furs, the other with the tallow of buffaloe; they were from the Sioux
+nation, and on their way to St. Louis; but we were fortunate enough to
+engage one of them, a Mr. Durion, who had lived with that nation more
+than twenty years, and was high in their confidence, to accompany us
+thither. We made nine miles. On the 13th, we passed at between four and
+five miles, a bend of the river, and two creeks on the north, called the
+Round Bend creeks. Between these two creeks is the prairie, in which
+once stood the ancient village of the Missouris. Of this village there
+remains no vestige, nor is there any thing to recall this great and
+numerous nation, except a feeble remnant of about thirty families. They
+were driven from their original seats by the invasions of the Sauks and
+other Indians from the Mississippi, who destroyed at this village two
+hundred of them in one contest, and sought refuge near the Little Osage,
+on the other side of the river. The encroachment of the same enemies
+forced, about thirty years since, both these nations from the banks of
+the Missouri. A few retired with the Osage, and the remainder found an
+asylum on the river Platte, among the Ottoes, who are themselves
+declining. Opposite the plain there was an island and a French fort,
+but there is now no appearance of either, the successive inundations
+having probably washed them away, as the willow island which is in the
+situation described by Du Pratz, is small and of recent formation. Five
+miles from this place is the mouth of Grand River, where we encamped.
+This river follows a course nearly south, or south east, and is between
+eighty and a hundred yards wide where it enters the Missouri, near a
+delightful and rich plain. A racoon, a bear, and some deer were obtained
+to day. We proceeded at six o'clock the next morning. The current was so
+rapid and the banks on the north falling in so constantly, that we were
+obliged to approach the sandbars on the south. These were moving
+continually, and formed the worst passage we had seen, and which we
+surmounted with much difficulty. We met a trading raft from the Pawnee
+nation on the river Platte, and attempted unsuccessfully to engage one
+of their party to return with us. At the distance of eight miles, we
+came to some high cliffs, called the Snake bluffs, from the number of
+that animal in the neighbourhood, and immediately above these bluffs,
+Snake creek, about eighteen yards wide, on which we encamped. One of our
+hunters, a half Indian, brought us an account of his having to day
+passed a small lake, near which a number of deer were feeding, and in
+the pond he heard a snake making a guttural noise like a turkey. He
+fired his gun, but the noise became louder. He adds, that he has heard
+the Indians mention this species of snake, and this story is confirmed
+by a Frenchman of our party. All the next day, the river being very
+high, the sandbars were so rolling and numerous, and the current so
+strong, that we were unable to stem it even with oars added to our
+sails; this obliged us to go nearer the banks, which were falling in, so
+that we could not make, though the boat was occasionally towed, more
+than fourteen miles. We passed several islands and one creek on the
+south side, and encamped on the north opposite a beautiful plain, which
+extends as far back as the Osage river, and some miles up the Missouri.
+In front of our encampment are the remains of an old village of the
+Little Osage, situated at some distance from the river, and at the foot
+of a small hill. About three miles above them, in view of our camp is
+the situation of the old village of the Missouris after they fled from
+the Sauks. The inroads of the same tribe compelled the Little Osage to
+retire from the Missouri a few years ago, and establish themselves near
+the Great Osages. The river, which is here about one mile wide, had
+risen in the morning, but fell towards evening. Early this morning, June
+16th, we joined the camp of our hunters, who had provided two deer and
+two bear, and then passing an island and a prairie on the north covered
+with a species of timothy, made our way through bad sandbars and a swift
+current, to an encampment for the evening, on the north side, at ten
+miles distance. The timber which we examined to day was not sufficiently
+strong for oars; the musquitoes and ticks are exceedingly troublesome.
+On the 17th, we set out early and having come to a convenient place at
+one mile distance, for procuring timber and making oars, we occupied
+ourselves in that way on this and the following day. The country on the
+north of the river is rich and covered with timber; among which we
+procured the ash for oars. At two miles it changes into extensive
+prairies, and at seven or eight miles distance becomes higher and
+waving. The prairie and high lands on the south commence more
+immediately on the river; the whole is well watered and provided with
+game, such as deer, elk, and bear. The hunters brought in a fat horse
+which was probably lost by some war party--this being the crossing place
+for the Sauks, Ayauways, and Sioux, in their excursions against the
+Osage.
+
+June 19, the oars being finished, we proceeded under a gentle breeze by
+two large and some smaller islands. The sandbars are numerous and so
+bad, that at one place we were forced to clear away the driftwood in
+order to pass: the water too was so rapid that we were under the
+necessity of towing the boat for half a mile round a point of rocks on
+the south side. We passed two creeks, one called Tiger creek on the
+north, twenty-five yards wide at the extremity of a large island called
+Panther Island; the other Tabo creek on the south, fifteen yards wide.
+Along the shores are gooseberries and raspberries in great abundance. At
+the distance of seventeen and a half miles we encamped on the south,
+near a lake about two miles from the river and several in circumference;
+and much frequented by deer and all kinds of fowls. On the north the
+land is higher and better calculated for farms than that on the south,
+which ascends more gradually, but is still rich and pleasant. The
+musquitoes and other animals are so troublesome that musquitoe biers or
+nets were distributed to the party. The next morning we passed a large
+island, opposite to which on the north is a large and beautiful prairie,
+called Sauk prairie, the land being fine and well timbered on both sides
+the river. Pelicans were seen to day. We made six and three quarter
+miles, and encamped at the lower point of a small island, along the
+north side of which we proceeded the next day, June 21st, but not
+without danger in consequence of the sands and the rapidity of the water
+which rose three inches last night. Behind another island come in from
+the south two creeks, called Eau, Beau, or Clear Water creeks; on the
+north is a very remarkable bend, where the high lands approach the
+river, and form an acute angle at the head of a large island produced by
+a narrow channel through the point of the bend. We passed several other
+islands, and encamped at seven and a half miles on the south.
+
+22d. The river rose during the night four inches. The water is very
+rapid and crowded with concealed timber. We passed two large islands and
+an extensive prairie on the south, beginning with a rich low land, and
+rising to the distance of seventy or eighty feet of rolling clear
+country. The thermometer at three o'clock P.M. was at 87 degrees. After
+coming ten and a half miles we encamped on the south, opposite a large
+creek called Fire Prairie river.
+
+23d. The wind was against us this morning, and became so violent that we
+made only three and a half miles, and were obliged to lie to during the
+day at a small island. This is separated from the northern side by a
+narrow channel which cannot be passed by boats, being choaked by trees
+and drifted wood. Directly opposite on the south, is a high commanding
+position, more than seventy feet above high water mark, and overlooking
+the river which is here of but little width; this spot has many
+advantages for a fort, and trading house with the Indians.[A] The river
+fell eight inches last night.
+
+[Footnote A: The United States built in September, 1808, a factory and
+fort at this spot, which is very convenient for trading with the Osages,
+Ayauways and Kanzas.]
+
+The next day, 24th, we passed at eight miles distance, Hay Cabin creek
+coming in from the south, about twenty yards wide, and so called from
+camps of straw built on it; to the north are some rocks projecting into
+the river, and a little beyond them a creek on the same side, called
+Charaton Scarty; that is, Charaton like the Otter. We halted, after
+making eleven and a half miles, the country on both sides being fine and
+interspersed with prairies, in which we now see numerous herds of deer,
+pasturing in the plains or feeding on the young willows of the river.
+
+25th. A thick fog detained us till eight o'clock, when we set sail, and
+at three miles reached a bank of stone coal on the north, which appeared
+to be very abundant: just below it is a creek called after the bank La
+Charbonniere. Four miles further, and on the southern side, comes in a
+small creek, called La Benite. The prairies here approach the river and
+contain many fruits, such as plums, raspberries, wild apples, and nearer
+the river vast quantities of mulberries. Our encampment was at thirteen
+miles distance on an island to the north, opposite some hills higher
+than usual, and almost one hundred and sixty or one hundred and eighty
+feet. 26th. At one mile we passed at the end of a small island, Blue
+Water creek, which is about thirty yards wide at its entrance from the
+south.[A] Here the Missouri is confined within a narrow bed, and the
+current still more so by counter currents or whirls on one side and a
+high bank on the other. We passed a small island and a sandbar, where
+our tow rope broke twice, and we rowed round with great exertions. We
+saw a number of parroquets, and killed some deer; after nine and three
+quarter miles we encamped at the upper point of the mouth of the river
+Kanzas: here we remained two days, during which we made the necessary
+observations, recruited the party, and repaired the boat. The river
+Kanzas takes its rise in the plains between the Arkansaw and Platte
+rivers, and pursues a course generally east till its junction with the
+Missouri which is in latitude 38 degrees 31' 13"; here it is three
+hundred and forty and a quarter yards wide, though it is wider a short
+distance above the mouth. The Missouri itself is about five hundred
+yards in width; the point of union is low and subject to inundations for
+two hundred and fifty yards, it then rises a little above high water
+mark, and continues so as far back as the hills. On the south of the
+Kanzas the hills or highlands come within one mile and a half of the
+river; on the north of the Missouri they do not approach nearer than
+several miles; but on all sides the country is fine. The comparative
+specific gravities of the two rivers is, for the Missouri seventy-eight,
+the Kanzas seventy-two degrees; the waters of the latter have a very
+disagreeable taste, the former has risen during yesterday and to day
+about two feet. On the banks of the Kanzas reside the Indians of the
+same name, consisting of two villages, one at about twenty, the other
+forty leagues from its mouth, and amounting to about three hundred men.
+They once lived twenty-four leagues higher than the Kanzas, on the south
+bank of the Missouri, and were then more numerous, but they have been
+reduced and banished by the Sauks and Ayauways, who being better
+supplied with arms have an advantage over the Kanzas, though the latter
+are not less fierce or warlike than themselves. This nation is now
+hunting in the plains for the buffaloe which our hunters have seen for
+the first time.
+
+[Footnote A: A few miles up the Blue Water Creek are quarries of plaster
+of paris, since worked and brought down to St. Louis.]
+
+On the 29th, we set out late in the afternoon, and having passed a
+sandbar, near which the boat was almost lost, and a large island on the
+north, we encamped at seven and a quarter miles on the same side in the
+low lands, where the rushes are so thick that it is troublesome to walk
+through them. Early the next morning, 30th, we reached, at five miles
+distance, the mouth of a river coming in from the north, and called by
+the French, Petite Riviere Platte, or Little Shallow river; it is about
+sixty yards wide at its mouth. A few of the party who ascended informed
+us, that the lands on both sides are good, and that there are several
+falls well calculated for mills; the wind was from the south west, and
+the weather oppressively warm, the thermometer standing at 96 degrees
+above at three o'clock P.M. One mile beyond this is a small creek on the
+south, at five miles from which we encamped on the same side, opposite
+the lower point of an island called Diamond island. The land on the
+north between the Little Shallow river, and the Missouri is not good and
+subject to overflow--on the south it is higher and better timbered.
+
+July 1st. We proceeded along the north side of Diamond island, where a
+small creek called Biscuit creek empties itself. One and a half miles
+above the island is a large sandbar in the middle of the river, beyond
+which we stopped to refresh the men, who suffered very much from the
+heat. Here we observed great quantities of grapes and raspberries.
+Between one and two miles farther are three islands a creek on the
+south known by the French name of Remore. The main current which is now
+on the south side of the largest of the three islands, ran three years,
+as we were told on the north, and there was then no appearance of the
+two smaller islands. At the distance of four and a half miles we reached
+the lower point of a cluster of small islands, two large and two small,
+called Isles des Pares or Field Islands. Paccaun trees were this day
+seen, and large quantities of deer and turkies on the banks. We had
+advanced twelve miles.
+
+July 2d. We left our encampment, opposite to which is a high and
+beautiful prairie on the southern side, and passed up the south of the
+islands, which are high meadows, and a creek on the north called Pare
+creek. Here for half an hour the river became covered with drift wood,
+which rendered the navigation dangerous, and was probably caused by the
+giving way of some sandbar, which had detained the wood. After making
+five miles we passed a stream on the south called Turky creek, near a
+sandbar, where we could scarcely stem the current with twenty oars, and
+all the poles we had. On the north at about two miles further is a large
+island called by the Indians, Wau-car-da-war-card-da, or the Bear
+Medicine island. Here we landed and replaced our mast, which had been
+broken three days ago, by running against a tree, overhanging the river.
+Thence we proceeded, and after night stopped on the north side, above
+the island, having come eleven and a half miles. Opposite our camp is a
+valley, in which was situated an old village of the Kanzas, between two
+high points of land, and on the bank of the river. About a mile in the
+rear of the village was a small fort, built by the French on an
+elevation. There are now no traces of the village, but the situation of
+the fort may be recognized by some remains of chimnies, and the general
+outline of the fortification, as well as by the fine spring which
+supplied it with water. The party, who were stationed here, were
+probably cut off by the Indians, as there are no accounts of them.
+
+July 3d. A gentle breeze from the south carried us eleven and a quarter
+miles this day, past two islands, one a small willow island, the other
+large, and called by the French Isle des Vaches, or Cow island. At the
+head of this island, on the northern shore, is a large pond containing
+beaver, and fowls of different kinds. After passing a bad sandbar, we
+stopped on the south side at an old trading house, which is now
+deserted, and half a mile beyond it encamped on the south. The land is
+fine along the rivers, and some distance back. We observed the black
+walnut and oak, among the timber; and the honey-suckle and the
+buck's-eye, with the nuts on them.
+
+The morning of the 4th July was announced by the discharge of our gun.
+At one mile we reached the mouth of a bayeau or creek, coming from a
+large lake on the north side, which appears as if it had once been the
+bed of the river, to which it runs parallel for several miles. The water
+of it is clear and supplied by a small creek and several springs, and
+the number of goslins which we saw on it, induced us to call it the
+Gosling lake. It is about three quarters of a mile wide, and seven or
+eight miles long. One of our men was bitten by a snake, but a poultice
+of bark and gunpowder was sufficient to cure the wound. At ten and a
+quarter miles we reached a creek on the south about twelve yards wide
+and coming from an extensive prairie, which approached the borders of
+the river. To this creek which had no name, we gave that of Fourth of
+July creek; above it is a high mound, where three Indian paths centre,
+and from which is a very extensive prospect. After fifteen miles sail we
+came to on the north a little above a creek on the southern side, about
+thirty yards wide, which we called Independence creek, in honour of the
+day, which we could celebrate only by an evening gun, and an additional
+gill of whiskey to the men.
+
+The next day, 5th, we crossed over to the south and came along the bank
+of an extensive and beautiful prairie, interspersed with copses of
+timber, and watered by Independence creek. On this bank formerly stood
+the second village of the Kanzas; from the remains it must have been
+once a large town. We passed several bad sandbars, and a small creek to
+the south, which we called Yellow Ochre creek, from a bank of that
+mineral a little above it. The river continues to fall. On the shores
+are great quantities of summer and fall grapes, berries and wild roses.
+Deer is not so abundant as usual, but there are numerous tracks of elk
+around us. We encamped at ten miles distance on the south side under a
+high bank, opposite to which was a low land covered with tall rushes,
+and some timber.
+
+July 6. We set sail, and at one mile passed a sandbar, three miles
+further an island, a prairie to the north, at the distance of four miles
+called Reevey's prairie, after a man who was killed there; at which
+place the river is confined to a very narrow channel, and by a sandbar
+from the south. Four miles beyond is another sandbar terminated by a
+small willow island, and forming a very considerable bend in the river
+towards the north. The sand of the bar is light, intermixed with small
+pebbles and some pit coal. The river falls slowly, and, owing either to
+the muddiness of its water, or the extreme heat of the weather, the men
+perspire profusely. We encamped on the south having made twelve miles.
+The bird called whip-poor-will sat on the boat for some time.
+
+In the morning, July 7th, the rapidity of the water obliged us to draw
+the boat along with ropes. At six and three quarter miles, we came to a
+sandbar, at a point opposite a fine rich prairie on the north, called
+St. Michael's. The prairies of this neighbourhood have the appearance of
+distinct farms, divided by narrow strips of woodland, which follow the
+borders of the small runs leading to the river. Above this, about a
+mile, is a cliff of yellow clay on the north. At four o'clock we passed
+a narrow part of the channel, where the water is confined within a bed
+of two hundred yards wide, the current running directly against the
+southern bank with no sand on the north to confine it or break its
+force. We made fourteen miles, and halted on the north, after which we
+had a violent gust about seven o'clock. One of the hunters saw in a pond
+to the north which we passed yesterday a number of young swans. We saw a
+large rat, and killed a wolf. Another of our men had a stroke of the
+sun; he was bled, and took a preparation of nitre which relieved him
+considerably.
+
+July 8. We set out early, and soon passed a small creek on the north,
+which we called Ordway's creek, from our sergeant of that name who had
+been sent on shore with the horses, and went up it. On the same side are
+three small islands, one of which is the Little Nodawa, and a large
+island called the Great Nodawa* extending more than five miles, and
+containing seven or eight thousand acres of high good land, rarely
+overflowed, and one of the largest islands of the Missouri. It is
+separated from the northern shore by a small channel of from forty-five
+to eighty yards wide, up which we passed, and found near the western
+extremity of the island the mouth of the river Nodawa. This river
+persues nearly a southern course, is navigable for boats to some
+distance, and about seventy yards wide above the mouth, though not so
+wide immediately there, as the mud from the Missouri contracts its
+channel. At twelve and a quarter miles, we encamped on the north side,
+near the head of Nodawa island, and opposite a smaller one in the middle
+of the river. Five of the men were this day sick with violent headache.
+The river continues to fall.
+
+July 9th. We passed the island opposite to which we last night encamped,
+and saw near the head of it a creek falling in from a pond on the north,
+to which we gave the name of Pike pond, from the numbers of that animal
+which some of our party saw from the shore. The wind changed at eight
+from N.E. to S.W. and brought rain. At six miles we passed the mouth of
+Monter's creek on the south, and two miles above a few cabins, where one
+of our party had encamped with some Frenchmen about two years ago.
+Further on we passed an island on the north, opposite some cliffs on the
+south side, near which Loup or Wolf river falls into the Missouri. This
+river is about sixty yards wide, it heads near the same sources as the
+Kanzas, and is navigable for boats, at some distance up. At fourteen
+miles we encamped on the south side.
+
+Tuesday 10th. We proceeded on by a prairie on the upper side of Wolf
+river, and at four miles passed a creek fifteen yards wide on the south,
+called Pape's creek after a Spaniard of that name, who killed himself
+there. At six miles we dined on an island called by the French Isle de
+Salomon, or Solomon's island, opposite to which on the south is a
+beautiful plain covered with grass, intermixed with wild rye and a kind
+of wild potatoe. After making ten miles we stopped for the night on the
+northern side, opposite a cliff of yellow clay. The river has neither
+risen nor fallen to day. On the north the low land is very extensive,
+and covered with vines; on the south, the hills approach nearer the
+river, and back of them commence the plains. There are a great many
+goslins along the banks.
+
+Wednesday 11th. After three miles sailing we came to a willow island on
+the north side, behind which enters a creek called by the Indians
+Tarkio. Above this creek on the north the low lands are subject to
+overflow, and further back the undergrowth of vines particularly, is so
+abundant that they can scarcely be passed. Three miles from the Tarkio
+we encamped on a large sand island on the north, immediately opposite
+the river Nemahaw.
+
+Thursday 12th. We remained here to day for the purpose of refreshing the
+party, and making lunar observations. The Nemahaw empties itself into
+the Missouri from the south, and is eighty yards wide at the confluence,
+which is in lat. 39 degrees 55' 56". Capt. Clarke ascended it in the
+perioque about two miles to the mouth of a small creek on the lower
+side. On going ashore he found in the level plain several artificial
+mounds or graves, and on the adjoining hills others of a larger size.
+This appearance indicates sufficiently the former population of this
+country; the mounds being certainly intended as tombs; the Indians of
+the Missouri still preserving the custom of interring the dead on high
+ground. From the top of the highest mound a delightful prospect
+presented itself--the level and extensive meadows watered by the
+Nemahaw, and enlivened by the few trees and shrubs skirting the borders
+of the river and its tributary streams--the lowland of the Missouri
+covered with undulating grass, nearly five feet high, gradually rising
+into a second plain, where rich weeds and flowers are interspersed with
+copses of the Osage plum; further back are seen small groves of trees;
+an abundance of grapes; the wild cherry of the Missouri, resembling our
+own, but larger, and growing on a small bush; and the chokecherry, which
+we observed for the first time. Some of the grapes gathered to-day are
+nearly ripe. On the south of the Nemahaw, and about a quarter of a mile
+from its mouth, is a cliff of freestone, in which are various
+inscriptions and marks made by the Indians. The sand island where we are
+encamped, is covered with the two species of willow, broad and narrow
+leaf.
+
+July 13th. We proceeded at sunrise with a fair wind from the south, and
+at two miles, passed the mouth of a small river on the north, called Big
+Tarkio. A channel from the bed of the Missouri once ran into this river,
+and formed an island called St. Joseph's, but the channel is now filled
+up, and the island is added to the northern shore. Further on to the
+south, is situated an extensive plain, covered with a grass resembling
+timothy in its general appearance, except the seed which is like
+flaxseed, and also a number of grapevines. At twelve miles, we passed an
+island on the north, above which is a large sandbar covered with
+willows: and at twenty and a half miles, stopped on a large sandbar, in
+the middle of the river opposite a high handsome prairie, which extends
+to the hills four or five miles distant, though near the bank the land
+is low, and subject to be overflowed. This day was exceedingly fine and
+pleasant, a storm of wind and rain from north-northeast, last night,
+having cooled the air.
+
+July 14. We had some hard showers of rain before seven o'clock, when we
+set out. We had just reached the end of the sand island, and seen the
+opposite banks falling in, and so lined with timber that we could not
+approach it without danger, when a sudden squall, from the northeast,
+struck the boat on the starboard quarter, and would have certainly
+dashed her to pieces on the sand island, if the party had not leaped
+into the river, and with the aid of the anchor and cable kept her off:
+the waves dashing over her for the space of forty minutes; after which,
+the river became almost instantaneously calm and smooth. The two
+periogues were ahead, in a situation nearly similar, but fortunately no
+damage was done to the boats or the loading. The wind having shifted to
+the southeast, we came at the distance of two miles, to an inland on the
+north, where we dined. One mile above, on the same side of the river, is
+a small factory, where a merchant of St. Louis traded with the Ottoes
+and Pawnees two years ago. Near this is an extensive lowland, part of
+which is overflowed occasionally, the rest is rich and well timbered.
+The wind again changed to northwest by north. At seven and a half miles,
+we reached lower point of a large island, on the north side. A small
+distance above this point, is a river, called by the Maha Indians,
+Nishnahbatona. This is a considerable creek, nearly as large as the Mine
+river, and runs parallel to the Missouri the greater part of its course,
+being fifty yards wide at the mouth. In the prairies or glades, we saw
+wild-timothy, lambsquarter, cuckleberries, and on the edges of the
+river, summer-grapes, plums, and gooseberries. We also saw to-day, for
+the first time, some elk, at which some of the party shot, but at too
+great a distance. We encamped on the north side of the island, a little
+above Nishnahbatona, having made nine miles. The river fell a little.
+
+July 15. A thick fog prevented our leaving the encampment before seven.
+At about four miles, we reached the extremity of the large island, and
+crossing to the south, at the distance of seven miles, arrived at the
+Little Nemaha, a small river from the south, forty yards wide a little
+above its mouth, but contracting, as do almost all the waters emptying
+into the Missouri, at its confluence. At nine and three quarter miles,
+we encamped on a woody point, on the south. Along the southern bank, is
+a rich lowland covered with peavine, and rich weeds, and watered by
+small streams rising in the adjoining prairies. They too, are rich, and
+though with abundance of grass, have no timber except what grows near
+the water; interspersed through both are grapevines, plums of two kinds,
+two species of wild-cherries, hazlenuts, and gooseberries. On the south
+there is one unbroken plain; on the north the river is skirted with some
+timber, behind which the plain extends four or five miles to the hills,
+which seem to have little wood.
+
+July 16. We continued our route between a large island opposite to our
+last night's encampment, and an extensive prairie on the south. About
+six miles, we came to another large island, called Fairsun island, on
+the same side; above which is a spot, where about twenty acres of the
+hill have fallen into the river. Near this, is a cliff of sandstone for
+two miles, which is much frequented by birds. At this place the river is
+about one mile wide, but not deep; as the timber, or sawyers, may be
+seen, scattered across the whole of its bottom. At twenty miles
+distance, we saw on the south, an island called by the French, l'Isle
+Chance, or Bald island, opposite to a large prairie, which we called
+Baldpated prairie, from a ridge of naked hills which bound it, running
+parallel with the river as far as we could see, and from three to six
+miles distance. To the south the hills touch the river. We encamped a
+quarter of a mile beyond this, in a point of woods on the north side.
+The river continues to fall.
+
+Tuesday, July 17. We remained here this day, in order to make
+observations and correct the chronometer, which ran down on Sunday. The
+latitude we found to be 40 degrees 27' 5"4/10. The observation of the
+time proved our chronometer too slow, by 6' 51"6/10. The highlands bear
+from our camp, north 25 degrees west, up the river. Captain Lewis rode
+up the country, and saw the Nishnahbatona, about ten or twelve miles
+from its mouth, at a place not more than three hundred yards from the
+Missouri, and a little above our camp. It then passes near the foot of
+the Baldhills, and is at least six feet below the level of the Missouri.
+On its banks are the oak, walnut, and mulberry. The common current of
+the Missouri, taken with the log, is 50 fathoms in 40", at some places,
+and even 20".
+
+Wednesday, July 18. The morning was fair, and a gentle wind from
+southeast by south, carried us along between the prairie on the north,
+and Bald island to the south: opposite the middle of which, the
+Nishnahbatona approaches the nearest to the Missouri. The current here
+ran fifty fathoms in 41". At thirteen and a half miles, we reached an
+island on the north, near to which the banks overflow; while on the
+south, the hills project over the river and form high cliffs. At one
+point a part of the cliff, nearly three quarters of a mile in length,
+and about two hundred feet in height, has fallen into the river. It is
+composed chiefly of sandstone intermixed with an iron ore of bad
+quality; near the bottom is a soft slatestone with pebbles. We passed
+several bad sandbars in the course of the day, and made eighteen miles,
+and encamped on the south, opposite to the lower point of the Oven
+islands. The country around is generally divided into prairies, with
+little timber, except on low points, islands, and near creeks, and that
+consisting of cottonwood, mulberry, elm, and sycamore. The river falls
+fast. An Indian dog came to the bank; he appeared to have been lost and
+was nearly starved: we gave him some food, but he would not follow us.
+
+Thursday, July 19. The Oven islands are small, and two in number; one
+near the south shore, the other in the middle of the river. Opposite to
+them is the prairie, called Terrien's Oven, from a trader of that name.
+At four and a half miles, we reached some high cliffs of a yellow earth,
+on the south, near which are two beautiful runs of water, rising in the
+adjacent prairies, and one of them with a deerlick, about two hundred
+yards from its mouth. In this neighbourhood we observed some iron ore in
+the bank. At two and a half miles above the runs, a large portion of the
+hill, for nearly three quarters of a mile, has fallen into the river. We
+encamped on the western extremity of an island, in the middle of the
+river, having made ten and three quarter miles. The river falls a
+little. The sandbars which we passed to-day, are more numerous, and the
+rolling sands more frequent and dangerous, than any we have seen; these
+obstacles increasing as we approach the river Platte. The Missouri here
+is wider also than below, where the timber on the banks resists the
+current; while here the prairies which approach, are more easily washed
+and undermined. The hunters have brought for the last few days, no
+quadruped, but deer: great quantities of young geese are seen to-day:
+one of them brought calamus, which he had gathered opposite our
+encampment, and a large quantity of sweet-flag.
+
+Friday, July 20. There was a heavy dew last night, and this morning was
+foggy and cool. We passed at about three miles distance, a small willow
+island to the north, and a creek on the south, about twenty-five yards
+wide, called by the French, L'eau qui Pleure, or the Weeping Water, and
+emptying itself just above a cliff of brown clay. Thence we made two and
+a half miles to another island; three miles further to a third: six
+miles beyond which is a fourth island; at the head of which we encamped
+on the southern shore; in all eighteen miles. The party, who walked on
+the shore to-day, found the plains to the south, rich, but much parched
+with frequent fires, and with no timber, except the scattering trees
+about the sources of the runs, which are numerous and fine. On the
+north, is a similar prairie country. The river continues to fall. A
+large yellow wolf was this day killed. For a month past the party have
+been troubled with biles, and occasionally with the dysentery. These
+biles were large tumours which broke out under the arms, on the legs,
+and, generally, in the parts most exposed to action, which sometimes
+became too painful to permit the men to work. After remaining some days,
+they disappeared without any assistance, except a poultice of the bark
+of the elm, or of Indian meal. This disorder, which we ascribe to the
+muddiness of the river water, has not affected the general health of the
+party, which is quite as good, if not better, than that of the same
+number of men in any other situation.
+
+Saturday, July 21. We had a breeze from the southeast, by the aid of
+which we passed, at about ten miles, a willow island on the south, near
+high lands covered with timber, at the bank, and formed of limestone
+with cemented shells: on the opposite side is a bad sandbar, and the
+land near it is cut through at high water, by small channels forming a
+number of islands. The wind lulled at seven o'clock, and we reached, in
+the rain, the mouth of the great river Platte, at the distance of
+fourteen miles. The highlands which had accompanied us on the south, for
+the last eight or ten miles, stopped at about three quarters of a mile
+from the entrance of the Platte. Captains Lewis and Clarke ascended the
+river in a periogue, for about one mile, and found the current very
+rapid; rolling over sands, and divided into a number of channels; none
+of which are deeper than five or six feet. One of our Frenchmen, who
+spent two winters on it, says that it spreads much more at some distance
+from the mouth; that its depth is generally not more than five or six
+feet; that there are many small islands scattered through it, and that
+from its rapidity and the quantity of its sand, it cannot be navigated
+by boats or periogues, though the Indians pass it in small flat canoes
+made of hides. That the Saline or Salt river, which in some seasons is
+too brackish to be drank, falls into it from the south about thirty
+miles up, and a little above it Elkhorn river from the north, running
+nearly parallel with the Missouri. The river is, in fact, much more
+rapid than the Missouri, the bed of which it fills with moving sands,
+and drives the current on the northern shore, on which it is constantly
+encroaching. At its junction the Platte is about six hundred yards wide,
+and the same number of miles from the Mississippi. With much difficulty
+we worked round the sandbars near the mouth, and came to above the
+point, having made fifteen miles. A number of wolves were seen and heard
+around us in the evening.
+
+July 22. The next morning we set sail, and having found at the distance
+of ten miles from the Platte, a high and shaded situation on the north,
+we encamped there, intending to make the requisite observations, and to
+send for the neighbouring tribes, for the purpose of making known the
+recent change in the government, and the wish of the United States to
+cultivate their friendship.
+
+
+
+
+                               CHAP. II.
+
+     Some account of the Pawnee Indians--Council held with the Otto and
+     Missouri Indians--Council held with another party of the
+     Ottoes--Death of sergeant Floyd--The party encamp near the mouth of
+     Whitestone river--The character of the Missouri, with the rivers
+     that enter it--The surrounding country--The various islands, bays,
+     creeks, &c. given in the course of the expedition.
+
+
+Our camp is by observation in latitude 41 degrees 3' 11". Immediately
+behind it is a plain about five miles wide, one half covered with wood,
+the other dry and elevated. The low grounds on the south near the
+junction of the two rivers, are rich, but subject to be overflowed.
+Farther up, the banks are higher, and opposite our camp the first hills
+approach the river, and are covered with timber, such as oak, walnut,
+and elm. The intermediate country is watered by the Papillon, or
+Butterfly creek, of about eighteen yards wide, and three miles from the
+Platte; on the north are high open plains and prairies, and at nine
+miles from the Platte, the Musquitoe creek, and two or three small
+willow islands. We stayed here several days, during which we dried our
+provisions, made new oars, and prepared our despatches and maps of the
+country we had passed, for the president of the United States, to whom
+we intend to send them by a periogue from this place. The hunters have
+found game scarce in this neighbourhood; they have seen deer, turkies,
+and grouse; we have also an abundance of ripe grapes; and one of our men
+caught a white catfish, the eyes of which were small, and its tail
+resembling that of a dolphin. The present season is that in which the
+Indians go out into the prairies to hunt the buffaloe; but as we
+discovered some hunter's tracks, and observed the plains on fire in the
+direction of their villages, we hoped that they might have returned to
+gather the green indian corn, and therefore despatched two men to the
+Ottoes or Pawnee villages with a present of tobacco, and an invitation
+to the chiefs to visit us. They returned after two days absence. Their
+first course was through an open prairie to the south, in which they
+crossed Butterfly creek. They then reached a small beautiful river,
+called Come de Cerf, or Elkhorn river, about one hundred yards wide,
+with clear water and a gravelly channel. It empties a little below the
+Ottoe village into the Platte, which they crossed, and arrived at the
+town about forty-five miles from our camp. They found no Indians there,
+though they saw some fresh tracks of a small party. The Ottoes were once
+a powerful nation, and lived about twenty miles above the Platte, on the
+southern bank of the Missouri. Being reduced, they migrated to the
+neighborhood of the Pawnees, under whose protection they now live. Their
+village is on the south side of the Platte, about thirty miles from its
+mouth; and their number is two hundred men, including about thirty
+families of Missouri Indians, who are incorporated with them. Five
+leagues above them, on the same side of the river, resides the nation of
+Pawnees. This people were among the most numerous of the Missouri
+Indians, but have gradually been dispersed and broken, and even since
+the year 1797, have undergone some sensible changes. They now consist of
+four bands; the first is the one just mentioned, of about five hundred
+men, to whom of late years have been added the second band, who are
+called republican Pawnees, from their having lived on the republican
+branch of the river Kanzas, whence they emigrated to join the principal
+band of Pawnees: the republican Pawnees amount to nearly two hundred and
+fifty men. The third, are the Pawnees Loups, or Wolf Pawnees, who reside
+on the Wolf fork of the Platte, about ninety miles from the principal
+Pawnees, and number two hundred and eighty men. The fourth band
+originally resided on the Kanzas and Arkansaw, but in their wars with
+the Osages, they were so often defeated, that they at last retired to
+their present position on the Red river, where they form a tribe of
+four hundred men. All these tribes live in villages, and raise corn; but
+during the intervals of culture rove in the plains in quest of buffaloe.
+
+Beyond them on the river, and westward of the Black mountains, are the
+Kaninaviesch, consisting of about four hundred men. They are supposed to
+have emigrated originally from the Pawnees nation; but they have
+degenerated from the improvements of the parent tribe, and no longer
+live in villages, but rove through the plains.
+
+Still further to the westward, are several tribes, who wander and hunt
+on the sources of the river Platte, and thence to Rock Mountain. These
+tribes, of which little more is known than the names and the population,
+are first, the Staitan, or Kite Indians, a small tribe of one hundred
+men. They have acquired the name of Kites, from their flying; that is,
+their being always on horseback; and the smallness of their numbers is
+to be attributed to their extreme ferocity; they are the most warlike of
+all the western Indians; they never yield in battle; they never spare
+their enemies; and the retaliation of this barbarity has almost
+extinguished the nation. Then come the Wetapahato, and Kiawa tribes,
+associated together, and amounting to two hundred men; the Castahana, of
+three hundred men, to which are to be added the Cataka of seventy-five
+men, and the Dotami. These wandering tribes, are conjectured to be the
+remnants of the Great Padouca nation, who occupied the country between
+the upper parts of the river Platte, and the river Kanzas. They were
+visited by Bourgemont, in 1724, and then lived on the Kanzas river. The
+seats, which he describes as their residence, are now occupied by the
+Kanzas nation; and of the Padoucas, there does not now exist even the
+name.
+
+July 27. Having completed the object of our stay, we set sail, with a
+pleasant breeze from the N.W. The two horses swam over to the southern
+shore, along which we went, passing by an island, at three and a half
+miles, formed by a pond, fed by springs: three miles further is a large
+sand island, in the middle of the river; the land on the south being
+high, and covered with timber; that on the north, a high prairie. At ten
+and a half miles from our encampment, we saw and examined a curious
+collection of graves or mounds, on the south side of the river. Not far
+from a low piece of land and a pond, is a tract of about two hundred
+acres in circumference, which is covered with mounds of different
+heights, shapes, and sizes: some of sand, and some of both earth and
+sand; the largest being nearest the river. These mounds indicate the
+position of the ancient village of the Ottoes, before they retired to
+the protection of the Pawnees. After making fifteen miles, we encamped
+on the south, on the bank of a high handsome prairie, with lofty
+cottonwood in groves, near the river.
+
+July 28. At one mile, this morning we reached a bluff, on the north,
+being the first highlands, which approach the river on that side, since
+we left the Nadawa. Above this, is an island and a creek, about fifteen
+yards wide, which, as it has no name, we called Indian Knob creek, from
+a number of round knobs bare of timber, on the highlands, to the north.
+A little below the bluff, on the north, is the spot where the Ayauway
+Indians formerly lived. They were a branch of the Ottoes, and emigrated
+from this place to the river Desmoines. At ten and three quarter miles,
+we encamped on the north, opposite an island, in the middle of the
+river. The land, generally, on the north, consists of high prairie and
+hills, with timber: on the south, low and covered with cottonwood. Our
+hunter brought to us in the evening, a Missouri Indian, whom he had
+found, with two others, dressing an elk; they were perfectly friendly,
+gave him some of the meat, and one of them agreed to accompany him to
+the boat. He is one of the few remaining Missouris, who live with the
+Ottoes: he belongs to a small party, whose camp is four miles from the
+river; and he says, that the body of the nation is now hunting buffaloe
+in the plains: he appeared quite sprightly, and his language resembled
+that of the Osage, particularly in his calling a chief, inca. We sent
+him back with one of our party next morning,
+
+Sunday, July 29, with an invitation to the Indians, to meet us above on
+the river, and then proceeded. We soon came to a northern bend in the
+river, which runs within twenty yards of Indian Knob creek, the water of
+which is five feet higher than that of the Missouri. In less than two
+miles, we passed Boyer's creek on the north, of twenty-five yards width.
+We stopped to dine under a shade, near the highland on the south, and
+caught several large catfish, one of them nearly white, and all very
+fat. Above this highland, we observed the traces of a great hurricane,
+which passed the river obliquely from N.W. to S.E. and tore up large
+trees, some of which perfectly sound, and four feet in diameter, were
+snapped off near the ground. We made ten miles to a wood on the north,
+where we encamped. The Missouri is much more crooked, since we passed
+the river Platte, though generally speaking, not so rapid; more of
+prairie, with less timber, and cottonwood in the low grounds, and oak,
+black walnut, hickory, and elm.
+
+July 30. We went early in the morning, three and a quarter miles, and
+encamped on the south, in order to wait for the Ottoes. The land here
+consists of a plain, above the highwater level, the soil of which is
+fertile, and covered with a grass from five to eight feet high,
+interspersed with copses of large plums, and a currant, like those of
+the United States. It also furnishes two species of honeysuckle; one
+growing to a kind of shrub, common about Harrodsburgh (Kentucky), the
+other is not so high: the flowers grow in clusters, are short, and of a
+light pink colour; the leaves too, are distinct, and do not surround the
+stalk, as do those of the common honeysuckle of the United States. Back
+of this plain, is a woody ridge about seventy feet above it, at the end
+of which we formed our camp. This ridge separates the lower from a
+higher prairie, of a good quality, with grass, of ten or twelve inches
+in height, and extending back about a mile, to another elevation of
+eighty or ninety feet, beyond which is one continued plain. Near our
+camp, we enjoy from the bluffs a most beautiful view of the river, and
+the adjoining country. At a distance, varying from four to ten miles,
+and of a height between seventy and three hundred feet, two parallel
+ranges of highland affords a passage to the Missouri, which enriches the
+low grounds between them. In its winding course, it nourishes the willow
+islands, the scattered cottonwood, elm, sycamore, lynn, and ash, and the
+groves are interspersed with hickory, walnut, coffeenut, and oak.
+
+July 31. The meridian altitude of this day made the latitude of our camp
+41 degrees 18' 1-4/10". The hunters supplied us with deer, turkies,
+geese, and beaver; one of the last was caught alive, and in a very short
+time was perfectly tamed. Catfish are very abundant in the river, and we
+have also seen a buffaloefish. One our men brought in yesterday an
+animal called, by the Pawnees, chocartoosh, and, by the French,
+blaireau, or badger. The evening is cool, yet the musquitoes are still
+very troublesome.
+
+We waited with much anxiety the return of our messenger to the Ottoes.
+The men whom we despatched to our last encampment, returned without
+having seen any appearance of its having been visited. Our horses too
+had strayed; but we were so fortunate as to recover them at the distance
+of twelve miles. Our apprehensions were at length relieved by the
+arrival of a party of about fourteen Ottoe and Missouri Indians, who
+came at sunset, on the second of August, accompanied by a Frenchman, who
+resided among them, and interpreted for us. Captains Lewis and Clarke
+went out to meet them, and told them that we would hold a council in the
+morning. In the mean time we sent them some roasted meat, pork, flour,
+and meal; in return for which they made us a present of watermelons. We
+learnt that our man Liberte had set out from their camp a day before
+them: we were in hopes that he had fatigued his horse, or lost himself
+in the woods, and would soon return; but we never saw him again.
+
+August 8. The next morning the Indians, with their six chiefs, were all
+assembled under an awning, formed with the mainsail, in presence of all
+our party, paraded for the occasion. A speech was then made, announcing
+to them the change in the government, our promises of protection, and
+advice as to their future conduct. All the six chiefs replied to our
+speech, each in his turn, according to rank: they expressed their joy at
+the change in the government; their hopes that we would recommend them
+to their great father (the president), that they might obtain trade and
+necessaries; they wanted arms as well for hunting as for defence, and
+asked our mediation between them and the Mahas, with whom they are now
+at war. We promised to do so, and wished some of them to accompany us to
+that nation, which they declined, for fear of being killed by them. We
+then proceeded to distribute our presents. The grand chief of the nation
+not being of the party, we sent him a flag, a medal, and some ornaments
+for clothing. To the six chiefs who were present, we gave a medal of the
+second grade to one Ottoe chief, and one Missouri chief; a medal of the
+third grade to two inferior chiefs of each nation: the customary mode of
+recognizing a chief, being to place a medal round his neck, which is
+considered among his tribe as a proof of his consideration abroad. Each
+of these medals was accompanied by a present of paint, garters, and
+cloth ornaments of dress; and to this we added a cannister of powder, a
+bottle of whiskey, and a few presents to the whole, which appeared to
+make them perfectly satisfied. The airgun too was fired, and astonished
+them greatly. The absent grand chief was an Ottoe named Weahrushhah,
+which, in English, degenerates into Little Thief. The two principal
+chieftains present were, Shongotongo, or Big Horse; and Wethea, or
+Hospitality; also Shosgusean, or White Horse, an Ottoe; the first an
+Ottoe, the second a Missouri. The incidents just related, induced us to
+give to this place the name of the Council-bluff; the situation of it
+is exceedingly favourable for a fort and trading factory, as the soil
+is well calculated for bricks, and there is an abundance of wood in the
+neighbourhood, and the air being pure and healthy. It is also central to
+the chief resorts of the Indians: one day's journey to the Ottoes; one
+and a half to the great Pawnees; two days from the Mahas; two and a
+quarter from the Pawnees Loups village; convenient to the hunting
+grounds of the Sioux; and twenty-five days journey to Santa Fee.
+
+The ceremonies of the council being concluded, we set sail in the
+afternoon, and encamped at the distance of five miles, on the south
+side, where we found the musquitoes very troublesome.
+
+August 4. A violent wind, accompanied by rain, purified and cooled the
+atmosphere last night; we proceeded early, and reached a very narrow
+part of the river, where the channel is confined within a space of two
+hundred yards, by a sand point on the north, and a bend on the south;
+the banks in the neighbourhood washing away, the trees falling in, and
+the channel filled with buried logs. Above this is a trading house, on
+the south, where one of our party passed two years, trading with the
+Mahas. At nearly four miles, is a creek on the south, emptying opposite
+a large island of sand; between this creek and our last night's
+encampment, the river has changed its bed, and encroached on the
+southern shore. About two miles further, is another creek on the south,
+which, like the former, is the outlet of three ponds, communicating with
+each other, and forming a small lake, which is fed by streams from the
+highlands. At fifteen miles, we encamped on the south. The hills on both
+sides of the river are nearly twelve or fifteen miles from each other;
+those of the north containing some timber, while the hills of south are
+without any covering, except some scattering wood in the ravines, and
+near where the creeks pass into the hills; rich plains and prairies
+occupying the intermediate space, and partially covered, near the water,
+with cottonwood. There has been a great deal of pumice stone on shore
+to-day.
+
+August 5th. We set out early, and, by means of our oars, made twenty and
+a half miles, though the river was crowded with sandbars. On both sides
+the prairies extend along the river; the banks being covered with great
+quantities of grapes, of which three different species are now ripe; one
+large and resembling the purple grape. We had some rain this morning,
+attended by high wind; but generally speaking, have remarked that
+thunder storms are less frequent than in the Atlantic states, at this
+season. Snakes too are less frequent, though we killed one to-day of the
+shape and size of the rattlesnake, but of a lighter colour. We fixed our
+camp on the north side. In the evening, captain Clarke, in pursuing some
+game, in an eastern direction, found himself at the distance of three
+hundred and seventy yards from the camp, at a point of the river whence
+we had come twelve miles. When the water is high, this peninsula is
+overflowed, and judging from the customary and notorious changes in the
+river, a few years will be sufficient to force the main current of the
+river across, and leave the great bend dry. The whole lowland between
+the parallel range of hills seems formed of mud or ooze of the river, at
+some former period, mixed with sand and clay. The sand of the
+neighbouring banks accumulates with the aid of that brought down the
+stream, and forms sandbars, projecting into the river; these drive the
+channel to the opposite banks, the loose texture of which it undermines,
+and at length deserts its ancient bed for a new and shorter passage; it
+is thus that the banks of the Missouri are constantly falling, and the
+river changing its bed.
+
+August 6. In the morning, after a violent storm of wind and rain from
+N.W. we passed a large island to the north. In the channel separating it
+from the shore, a creek called Soldier's river enters; the island kept
+it from our view, but one of our men who had seen it, represents it as
+about forty yards wide at its mouth. At five miles, we came to a bend
+of the river towards the north, a sandbar, running in from the south,
+had turned its course so as to leave the old channel quite dry. We again
+saw the same appearance at our encampment, twenty and a half miles
+distant on the north side. Here the channel of the river had encroached
+south, and the old bed was without water, except a few ponds. The
+sandbars are still very numerous.
+
+August 7. We had another storm from the N.W. in the course of the last
+evening; in the morning we proceeded, having the wind from the north,
+and encamped on the northern shore, having rowed seventeen miles. The
+river is here encumbered with sandbars, but no islands, except two small
+ones, called Detachment islands, and formed on the south side by a small
+stream.
+
+We despatched four men back to the Ottoes village in quest of our man,
+Liberte, and to apprehend one of the soldiers, who left us on the 4th,
+under pretence of recovering a knife which he had dropped a short
+distance behind, and who we fear has deserted. We also sent small
+presents to the Ottoes and Missouris, and requested that they would join
+us at the Maha village, where a peace might be concluded between them.
+
+August 8. At two miles distance, this morning we came to a part of the
+river, where there was concealed timber difficult to pass. The wind was
+from the N.W. and we proceeded in safety. At six miles, a river empties
+on the northern side, called by the Sioux Indians, Eaneahwadepon, or
+Stone river; and by the French, Petite Riviere des Sioux, or Little
+Sioux river. At its confluence it is eighty yards wide. Our interpreter,
+Mr. Durion, who has been to the sources of it, and knows the adjoining
+country, says that it rises within about nine miles of the river
+Desmoines; that within fifteen leagues of that river it passes through a
+large lake nearly sixty miles in circumference, and divided into two
+parts by rocks which approach each other very closely: its width is
+various: it contains many islands, and is known by the name of the Lac
+d'Esprit: it is near the Dogplains, and within four days march of the
+Mahas. The country watered by it, is open and undulating, and may be
+visited in boats up the river for some distance. The Desmoines, he adds,
+is about eighty yards wide where the Little Sioux river approaches it:
+it is shoaly, and one of its principal branches is called Cat river. Two
+miles beyond this river is a long island which we called Pelican island,
+from the numbers of that animal which were feeding on it: one of these
+being killed, we poured into his bag five gallons of water. An elk, too,
+was shot, and we had again to remark that snakes are rare in this part
+of the Missouri. A meridian altitude near the Little Sioux river made
+the latitude 41 degrees 42' 34". We encamped on the north, having come
+sixteen miles.
+
+August 9. A thick fog detained us until past seven o'clock, after which
+we proceeded with a gentle breeze from the southeast. After passing two
+sandbars we reached, at seven and a half miles, a point of highland on
+the left, near which the river has forced itself a channel across a
+peninsula, leaving on the right a circuit of twelve or eighteen miles,
+which is now recognised by the ponds and islands it contains. At
+seventeen and a half miles, we reached a point on the north, where we
+encamped. The hills are at a great distance from the river for the last
+several days; the land, on both sides low, and covered with cottonwood
+and abundance of grape vines. An elk was seen to-day, a turkey also
+shot, and near our camp is a beaver den: the musquitoes have been more
+troublesome than ever for the two last days.
+
+August 10. At two and a half miles, we came to a place, called Coupee a
+Jacques, where the river has found a new bed, and abridged a circuit of
+several miles: at twelve and a half miles, a cliff of yellow stone on
+the left. This is the first highland near the river above the
+Council-bluff. After passing a number of sandbars we reached a willow
+island at the distance of twenty-two and a half miles, which we were
+enabled to do with our oars and a wind from the S.W. and encamped on the
+north side.
+
+August 11. After a violent wind from the N.W. attended with rain, we
+sailed along the right of the island. At nearly five miles, we halted on
+the south side for the purpose of examining a spot where one of the
+great chiefs of the Mahas named Blackbird, who died about four years ago
+of the smallpox, was buried. A hill of yellow soft sandstone rises from
+the river in bluffs of various heights, till it ends in a knoll about
+three hundred feet above the water; on the top of this a mound, of
+twelve feet diameter at the base and six feet high, is raised over the
+body of the deceased king; a pole of about eight feet high is fixed in
+the centre; on which we placed a white flag, bordered with red, blue,
+and white. The Blackbird seems to have been a personage of great
+consideration; for ever since his death he is supplied with provisions,
+from time to time, by the superstitious regard of the Mahas. We
+descended to the river and passed a small creek on the south, called, by
+the Mahas, Waucandipeeche, (Great Spirit is bad.) Near this creek and
+the adjoining hills the Mahas had a village, and lost four hundred of
+their nation by the dreadful malady which destroyed the Blackbird. The
+meridian altitude made the latitude 42 degrees 1' 3-8/10" north. We
+encamped, at seventeen miles distance, on the north side in a bend of
+the river. During our day's course it has been crooked; we observed a
+number of places in it where the old channel is filled up, or gradually
+becoming covered with willow and cottonwood; great numbers of herons are
+observed to-day, and the mosquitoes annoy us very much.
+
+August 12. A gentle breeze from the south, carried us along about ten
+miles, when we stopped to take meridian altitude, and sent a man across
+to our place of observation: yesterday he stepped nine hundred and
+seventy-four yards, and the distance we had come round, was eighteen
+miles and three quarters. The river is wider and shallower than usual.
+Four miles beyond this bend a bluff begins, and continues several
+miles; on the south it rises from the water at different heights, from
+twenty to one hundred and fifty feet, and higher as it recedes on the
+river: it consists of yellow and brown clay, with soft sandstone imbeded
+in it, and is covered with timber, among which may be observed some red
+cedar: the lands on the opposite side are low and subject to inundation,
+but contain willows, cottonwood, and many grapes. A prairie-wolf came
+near the bank and barked at us; we attempted unsuccessfully to take him.
+This part of the river abounds in beaver. We encamped on a sand-island
+in a bend to the north, having made twenty miles and a quarter.
+
+August 13. Set out at daylight with a breeze from the southeast, and
+passed several sandbars. Between ten and eleven miles, we came to a spot
+on the south, where a Mr. Mackay had a trading establishment in the year
+1795 and 1796, which he called Fort Charles. At fourteen miles, we
+reached a creek on the south, on which the Mahas reside, and at
+seventeen miles and a quarter, formed a camp on a sandbar, to the south
+side of the river, opposite the lower point of a large island. From this
+place sergeant Ordway and four men were detached to the Maha village
+with a flag and a present, in order to induce them to come and hold a
+council with us. They returned at twelve o'clock the next day, August
+14. After crossing a prairie covered with high grass, they reached the
+Maha creek, along which they proceeded to its three forks, which join
+near the village: they crossed the north branch and went along the
+south; the walk was very fatiguing, as they were forced to break their
+way through grass, sunflowers and thistles, all above ten feet high, and
+interspersed with wild pea. Five miles from our camp they reached the
+position of the ancient Maha village: it had once consisted of three
+hundred cabins, but was burnt about four years ago, soon after the
+smallpox had destroyed four hundred men, and a proportion of women and
+children. On a hill, in the rear of the village, are the graves of the
+nation; to the south of which runs the fork of the Maha creek: this they
+crossed where it was about ten yards wide, and followed its course to
+the Missouri, passing along a ridge of hill for one and a half mile, and
+a long pond between that and the Missouri: they then recrossed the Maha
+creek, and arrived at the camp, having seen no tracks of Indians nor any
+sign of recent cultivation.
+
+In the morning 15th, some men were sent to examine the cause of a large
+smoke from the northeast, and which seemed to indicate that some Indians
+were near; but they found that a small party, who had lately passed that
+way, had left some trees burning, and that the wind from that quarter
+blew the smoke directly towards us. Our camp lies about three miles
+northeast from the old Maha village, and is in latitude 42 degrees 15'
+41". The accounts we have had of the effects of the smallpox on that
+nation are most distressing; it is not known in what way it was first
+communicated to them, though probably by some war party. They had been a
+military and powerful people; but when these warriors saw their strength
+wasting before a malady which they could not resist, their phrenzy was
+extreme; they burnt their village, and many of them put to death their
+wives and children, to save them from so cruel an affliction, and that
+all might go together to some better country.
+
+On the 16th, we still waited for the Indians: a party had gone out
+yesterday to the Maha creek, which was damned up by the beaver between
+the camp and the village: a second went to-day. They made a kind of drag
+with small willows and bark, and swept the creek: the first company
+brought three hundred and eighteen, the second upwards of eight hundred,
+consisting of pike, bass, fish resembling salmon, trout, redhorse,
+buffaloe, one rockfish, one flatback, perch, catfish, a small species of
+perch called, on the Ohio, silverfish, a shrimp of the same size, shape
+and flavour of those about Neworleans, and the lower part of the
+Mississippi. We also found very fat muscles; and on the river as well as
+the creek, are different kinds of ducks and plover. The wind, which in
+the morning had been from the northwest, shifted round in the evening to
+the southeast, and as usual we had a breeze, which cooled the air and
+relieve us from the musquitoes, who generally give us great trouble.
+
+Friday 17. The wind continued from the southeast, and the morning was
+fair. We observe about us a grass resembling wheat, except that the
+grain is like rye, also some similar to both rye and barley, and a kind
+of timothy, the seed of which branches from the main stock, and is more
+like a flaxseed than a timothy. In the evening, one of the party sent to
+the Ottoes, returned with the information that the rest were coming on
+with the deserter: they had also caught Liberte, but, by a trick, he
+made his escape: they were bringing three of the chiefs in order to
+engage our assistance in making peace with the Mahas. This nation having
+left their village, that desirable purpose cannot be effected; but in
+order to bring in any neighbouring tribes, we set the surrounding
+prairies on fire. This is the customary signal made by traders to
+apprize the Indians of their arrival: it is also used between different
+nations as an indication of any event which they have previously agreed
+to announce in that way; and as soon as it is seen collects the
+neighbouring tribes, unless they apprehend that it is made by their
+enemies.
+
+August 18. In the afternoon the party arrived with the Indians,
+consisting of the Little Thief and the Big Horse, whom we had seen on
+the third, together with six other chiefs, and a French interpreter. We
+met them under a shade, and after they had finished a repast with which
+we supplied them, we inquired into the origin of the war between them
+and the Mahas, which they related with great frankness. It seems that
+two of the Missouris went to the Mahas to steal horses, but were
+detected and killed; the Ottoes and Missouris thought themselves bound
+to avenge their companions, and the whole nations were at last obliged
+to share in the dispute; they are also in fear of a war from the
+Pawnees, whose village they entered this summer, while the inhabitants
+were hunting, and stole their corn. This ingenuous confession did not
+make us the less desirous of negotiating a peace for them; but no
+Indians have as yet been attracted by our fire. The evening was closed
+by a dance; and the next day,
+
+August 19, the chiefs and warriors being assembled at ten o'clock, we
+explained the speech we had already sent from the Council-bluffs, and
+renewed our advice. They all replied in turn, and the presents were then
+distributed: we exchanged the small medal we had formerly given to the
+Big Horse for one of the same size with that of Little Thief: we also
+gave a small medal to a third chief, and a kind of certificate or letter
+of acknowledgment to five of the warriors expressive of our favour and
+their good intentions: one of them dissatisfied, returned us the
+certificate; but the chief, fearful of our being offended, begged that
+it might be restored to him; this we declined, and rebuked them severely
+for having in view mere traffic instead of peace with their neighbours.
+This displeased them at first; but they at length all petitioned that it
+should be given to the warrior, who then came forward and made an
+apology to us; we then delivered it to the chief to be given to the most
+worthy, and he bestowed it on the same warrior, whose name was Great
+Blue Eyes. After a more substantial present of small articles and
+tobacco, the council was ended with a dram to the Indians. In the
+evening we exhibited different objects of curiosity, and particularly
+the airgun, which gave them great surprise. Those people are almost
+naked, having no covering, except a sort of breechcloth round the
+middle, with a loose blanket or buffaloe robe painted, thrown over them.
+The names of these warriors, besides those already mentioned were
+Karkapaha, (or Crow's head) and Nenasawa (or Black Cat) Missouris; and
+Sananona (or Iron Eyes) Neswaunja (or Big Ox) Stageaunja (or Big Blue
+Eyes) and Wasashaco (or Brave Man) all Ottoes. These two tribes speak
+very nearly the same language: they all begged us to give them whiskey.
+
+The next morning, August 20, the Indians mounted their horses and left
+us, having received a canister of whiskey at parting. We then set sail,
+and after passing two islands on the north, came to on that side under
+some bluffs; the first near the river since we left the Ayauwa village.
+Here we had the misfortune to lose one of our sergeants, Charles Floyd.
+He was yesterday seized with a bilious cholic, and all our care and
+attention were ineffectual to relieve him: a little before his death, he
+said to captain Clark, "I am going to leave you," his strength failed
+him as he added "I want you to write me a letter," but he died with a
+composure which justified the high opinion we had formed of his firmness
+and good conduct. He was buried on the top of the bluff with the honours
+due to a brave soldier; and the place of his interment marked by a cedar
+post, on which his name and the day of his death were inscribed. About a
+mile beyond this place, to which we gave his name, is a small river
+about thirty yards wide, on the north, which we called Floyd's river,
+where we encamped. We had a breeze from the southeast, and made thirteen
+miles.
+
+August 21. The same breeze from the southeast carried us by a small
+willow creek on the north, about one mile and a half above Floyd's
+river. Here began a range of bluffs which continued till near the mouth
+of the great Sioux river, three miles beyond Floyd's. This river comes
+in from the north, and is about one hundred and ten yards wide. Mr.
+Durion, our Sioux interpreter, who is well acquainted with it, says that
+it is navigable upwards of two hundred miles to the falls, and even
+beyond them; that its sources are near those of the St. Peters. He also
+says, that below the falls a creek falls in from the eastward, after
+passing through cliffs of red rock: of this the Indians make their
+pipes; and the necessity of procuring that article, has introduced a
+sort of law of nations, by which the banks of the creek are sacred, and
+even tribes at war meet without hostility at these quarries, which
+possess a right of asylum. Thus we find even among savages certain
+principles deemed sacred, by which the rigours of their merciless system
+of warfare are mitigated. A sense of common danger, where stronger ties
+are wanting, gives all the binding force of more solemn obligations. The
+importance of preserving the known and settled rules of warfare among
+civilized nations, in all their integrity, becomes strikingly evident;
+since even savages, with their few precarious wants, cannot exist in a
+state of peace or war where this faith is once violated. The wind became
+southerly, and blew with such violence that we took a reef in our sail:
+it also blew the sand from the bars in such quantities, that we could
+not see the channel at any distance ahead. At four and a quarter miles,
+we came to two willow islands, beyond which are several sandbars; and at
+twelve miles, a spot where the Mahas once had a village, now no longer
+existing. We again passed a number of sandbars, and encamped on the
+south; having come twenty-four and three quarter miles. The country
+through which we passed has the same uniform appearance ever since we
+left the river Platte: rich low-grounds near the river, succeeded by
+undulating prairies, with timber near the waters. Some wolves were seen
+to-day on the sandbeaches to the south; we also procured an excellent
+fruit, resembling a red currant, growing on a shrub like the privy, and
+about the height of a wild plum.
+
+August 22. About three miles distance, we joined the men who had been
+sent from the Maha village with our horses, and who brought us two deer.
+The bluffs or hills which reach the river at this place, on the south,
+contain allum, copperas, cobalt which had the appearance of soft
+isinglass, pyrites, and sandstone, the two first very pure. Above this
+bluff comes in a small creek on the south, which we call Rologe creek.
+Seven miles above is another cliff, on the same side, of allum rock, of
+a dark brown colour, containing in its crevices great quantities of
+cobalt, cemented shells, and red earth. From this the river bends to the
+eastward, and approaches the Sioux river within three or four miles. We
+sailed the greater part of the day, and made nineteen miles to our camp
+on the north side. The sandbars are as usual numerous: there are also
+considerable traces of elk; but none are yet seen. Captain Lewis in
+proving the quality of some of the substances in the first cliff, was
+considerably injured by the fumes and taste of the cobalt, and took some
+strong medicine to relieve him from its effects. The appearance of these
+mineral substances enable us to account for disorders of the stomach,
+with which the party had been affected since they left the river Sioux.
+We had been in the habit of dipping up the water of the river
+inadvertently and making use of it, till, on examination, the sickness
+was thought to proceed from a scum covering the surface of the water
+along the southern shore, and which, as we now discovered, proceeded
+from these bluffs. The men had been ordered, before we reached the
+bluffs, to agitate the water, so as to disperse the scum, and take the
+water, not at the surface, but at some depth. The consequence was, that
+these disorders ceased: the biles too which had afflicted the men, were
+not observed beyond the Sioux river. In order to supply the place of
+sergeant Floyd, we permitted the men to name three persons, and Patrick
+Gass having the greatest number of votes was made a sergeant.
+
+August 23. We set out early, and at four miles came to a small run
+between cliffs of yellow and blue earth: the wind, however, soon
+changed, and blew so hard from the west, that we proceeded very slowly;
+the fine sand from the bar being driven in such clouds, that we could
+scarcely see. Three and a quarter miles beyond this run, we came to a
+willow island, and a sand island opposite, and encamped on the south
+side, at ten and a quarter miles. On the north side is an extensive and
+delightful prairie, which we called Buffaloe prairie, from our having
+here killed the first buffaloe. Two elk swam the river to-day and were
+fired at, but escaped: a deer was killed from the boat; one beaver was
+killed; and several prairie wolves were seen.
+
+August 24. It began to rain last night, and continued this morning: we
+proceeded, however, two and a quarter miles, to the commencement of a
+bluff of blue clay, about one hundred and eighty, or one hundred and
+ninety feet on the south side: it seems to have been lately on fire; and
+even now the ground is so warm that we cannot keep our hands in it at
+any depth: there are strong appearances of coal, and also great
+quantities of cobalt, or a crystalized substance resembling it. There is
+a fruit now ripe which looks like a currant, except that it is double
+the size, and grows on a bush like a privy, the size of a damson, and of
+a delicious flavour; its Indian name means rabbit-berries. We then
+passed, at the distance of about seven miles, the mouth of a creek on
+the north side, called by an Indian name, meaning Whitestone river. The
+beautiful prairie of yesterday, has changed into one of greater height,
+and very smooth and extensive. We encamped on the south side, at ten and
+a quarter miles, and found ourselves much annoyed by the musquitoes.
+
+
+
+
+                                CHAP. III.
+
+     Whimsical instance of superstition of the Sioux Indians--Council
+     held with the Sioux--Character of that tribe, their manners, &c.--A
+     ridiculous instance of their heroism--Ancient
+     fortifications--Quieurre river described--Vast herds of
+     Buffaloe--Account of the Petit Chien or Little Dog--Narrow escape
+     of George Shannon--Description of Whiteriver--Surprising fleetness
+     of the Antelope--Pass the river of the Sioux--Description of the
+     Grand Le Tour, or Great Bend--Encamp on the Teton river.
+
+
+August 25. Captains Lewis and Clarke, with ten men, went to see an
+object deemed very extraordinary among all the neighbouring Indians.
+They dropped down to the mouth of Whitestone river, about thirty yards
+wide, where they left the boat, and at the distance of two hundred
+yards, ascended a rising ground, from which a plain extended itself as
+far as the eye could discern. After walking four miles, they crossed the
+creek where it is twenty-three yards wide, and waters an extensive
+valley. The heat was so oppressive that we were obliged to send back our
+dog to the creek, as he was unable to bear the fatigue; and it was not
+till after four hours march that we reached the object of our visit.
+This was a large mound in the midst of the plain about N. 20 degrees W.
+from the month of Whitestone river, from which it is nine miles distant.
+The base of the mound is a regular parallelogram, the longest side being
+about three hundred yards, the shorter sixty or seventy: from the
+longest side it rises with a steep ascent from the north and south to
+the height of sixty-five or seventy feet, leaving on the top a level
+plain of twelve feet in breadth and ninety in length. The north and
+south extremities are connected by two oval borders which serve as new
+bases, and divide the whole side into three steep but regular gradations
+from the plain. The only thing characteristic in this hill is its
+extreme symmetry, and this, together with its being totally detached
+from the other hills which are at the distance of eight or nine miles,
+would induce a belief that it was artificial; but, as the earth and the
+loose pebbles which compose it, are arranged exactly like the steep
+grounds on the borders of the creek, we concluded from this similarity
+of texture that it might be natural. But the Indians have made it a
+great article of their superstition: it is called the mountain of Little
+People, or Little Spirits, and they believe that it is the abode of
+little devils, in the human form, of about eighteen inches high and with
+remarkably large heads; they are armed with sharp arrows, with which
+they are very skilful, and are always on the watch to kill those who
+should have the hardihood to approach their residence. The tradition is,
+that many have suffered from these little evil spirits, and among
+others, three Maha Indians fell a sacrifice to them a few years since.
+This has inspired all the neighbouring nations, Sioux, Mahas, and
+Ottoes, with such terror, that no consideration could tempt them to
+visit the hill. We saw none of these wicked little spirits; nor any
+place for them, except some small holes scattered over the top: we were
+happy enough to escape their vengeance, though we remained some time on
+the mound to enjoy the delightful prospect of the plain, which spreads
+itself out till the eye rests upon the N.W. hills at a great distance,
+and those of N.E. still farther off, enlivened by large herds of
+buffaloe feeding at a distance. The soil of these plains is exceedingly
+fine; there is, however, no timber except on the Missouri: all the wood
+of the Whitestone river not being sufficient to cover thickly one
+hundred acres. The plain country which surrounds this mound has
+contributed not a little to its bad reputation: the wind driving from
+every direction over the level ground obliges the insects to seek
+shelter on its leeward side, or be driven against us by the wind. The
+small birds, whose food they are, resort of course in great numbers in
+quest of subsistence; and the Indians always seem to discover an unusual
+assemblage of birds as produced by some supernatural cause: among them
+we observed the brown martin employed in looking for insects, and so
+gentle that they did not fly until we got within a few feet of them. We
+have also distinguished among numerous birds of the plain, the
+blackbird, the wren or prairie bird, and a species of lark about the
+size of a partridge, with a short tail. The excessive heat and thirst
+forced us from the hill, about one o'clock, to the nearest water, which
+we found in the creek, at three miles distance, and remained an hour and
+a half. We then went down the creek, through a lowland about one mile in
+width, and crossed it three times, to the spot where we first reached it
+in the morning. Here we gathered some delicious plums, grapes and blue
+currants, and afterwards arrived at the mouth of the river about sunset.
+To this place the course from the mound is S. twenty miles, E. nine
+miles; we there resumed our periogue, and on reaching our encampment of
+last night set the prairies on fire, to warn the Sioux of our approach.
+In the mean time, the boat under serjeant Pryor had proceeded in the
+afternoon one mile, to a bluff of blue clay on the south, and after
+passing a sandbar and two sand islands fixed their camp at the distance
+of six miles on the south. In the evening some rain fell. We had killed
+a duck and several birds: in the boat, they had caught some large
+catfish.
+
+Sunday, August 26. We rejoined the boat at nine o'clock before she set
+out, and then passing by an island, and under a cliff on the south,
+nearly two miles in extent and composed of white and blue earth,
+encamped at nine miles distance, on a sandbar towards the north.
+Opposite to this, on the south, is a small creek called Petit Arc or
+Little Bow, and a short distance above it, an old village of the same
+name. This village, of which nothing remains but the mound of earth
+about four feet high surrounding it, was built by a Maha chief named
+Little Bow, who being displeased with Blackbird, the late king, seceded
+with two hundred followers and settled at this spot, which is now
+abandoned, as the two villages have reunited since the death of
+Blackbird. We have great quantities of grapes, and plums of three kinds;
+two of a yellow colour, and distinguished by one of the species being
+longer than the other; and a third round and red: all have an excellent
+flavour, particularly those of the yellow kind.
+
+August 27. The morning star appeared much larger than usual. A gentle
+breeze from the southeast carried us by some large sandbars, on both
+sides and in the middle of the river, to a bluff, on the south side, at
+seven and a half miles distant; this bluff is of white clay or chalk,
+under which is much stone, like lime, incrusted with a clear substance,
+supposed to be cobalt, and some dark ore. Above this bluff we set the
+prairie on fire, to invite the Sioux. After twelve and a half miles, we
+had passed several other sandbars, and now reached the mouth of a river
+called by the French Jacques (James river) or Yankton, from the tribe
+which inhabits its banks. It is about ninety yards wide at the
+confluence: the country which it waters is rich prairie, with little
+timber: it becomes deeper and wider above its mouth, and may be
+navigated a great distance; as its sources rise near those of St.
+Peter's, of the Mississippi, and the red river of lake Winnipeg. As we
+came to the mouth of the river, an Indian swam to the boat; and, on our
+landing, we were met by two others, who informed us that a large body of
+Sioux were encamped near us: they accompanied three of our men, with an
+invitation to meet us at a spot above the river: the third Indian
+remained with us: he is a Maha boy, and says that his nation have gone
+to the Pawnees to make peace with them. At fourteen miles, we encamped
+on a sandbar to the north. The air was cool, the evening pleasant, the
+wind from the southeast, and light. The river has fallen gradually, and
+is now low.
+
+Tuesday, 28th. We passed, with a stiff breeze from the south, several
+sandbars. On the south is a prairie which rises gradually from the water
+to the height of a bluff, which is, at four miles distance, of a whitish
+colour, and about seventy or eighty feet high. Further on is another
+bluff, of a brownish colour, on the north side; and at the distance of
+eight and a half miles is the beginning of Calumet bluff, on the south
+side, under which we formed our camp, in a beautiful plain, to wait the
+arrival of the Sioux. At the first bluff the young Indian left us and
+joined their camp. Before reaching Calumet bluff one of the periogues
+ran upon a log in the river, and was rendered unfit for service; so that
+all our loading was put into the second periogue. On both sides of the
+river are fine prairies, with cotton wood; and near the bluff there is
+more timber in the points and valleys than we have been accustomed to
+see.
+
+Wednesday, 29th. We had a violent storm of wind and rain last evening;
+and were engaged during the day in repairing the periogue, and other
+necessary occupations; when, at four o'clock in the afternoon, sergeant
+Pryor and his party arrived on the opposite side, attended by five
+chiefs, and about seventy men and boys. We sent a boat for them, and
+they joined us, as did also Mr. Durion, the son of our interpreter, who
+happened to be trading with the Sioux at this time. He returned with
+sergeant Pryor to the Indians, with a present of tobacco, corn, and a
+few kettles; and told them that we would speak to their chiefs in the
+morning. Sergeant Pryor reported, that on reaching their village, which
+is at twelve miles distance from our camp, he was met by a party with a
+buffaloe robe, on which they desired to carry their visitors: an honour
+which they declined, informing the Indians that they were not the
+commanders of the boats: as a great mark of respect, they were then
+presented with a fat dog, already cooked, of which they partook
+heartily, and found it well flavoured. The camps of the Sioux are of a
+conical form, covered with buffaloe robes, painted with various figures
+and colours, with an aperture in the top for the smoke to pass through.
+The lodges contain from ten to fifteen persons, and the interior
+arrangement is compact and handsome, each lodge having a place for
+cooking detached from it.
+
+August 30th. Thursday. The fog was so thick that we could not see the
+Indian camp on the opposite side, but it cleared off about eight
+o'clock. We prepared a speech, and some presents, and then sent for the
+chiefs and warriors, whom we received, at twelve o'clock, under a large
+oak tree, near to which the flag of the United States was flying.
+Captain Lewis delivered a speech, with the usual advice and counsel for
+their future conduct. We then acknowledged their chiefs, by giving to
+the grand chief a flag, a medal, a certificate, with a string of wampum;
+to which we added a chief's coat; that is, a richly laced uniform of the
+United States artillery corps, and a cocked hat and red feather. One
+second chief and three inferior ones were made or recognised by medals,
+and a suitable present of tobacco, and articles of clothing. We then
+smoked the pipe of peace, and the chiefs retired to a bower, formed of
+bushes, by their young men, where they divided among each other the
+presents, and smoked and eat, and held a council on the answer which
+they were to make us to-morrow. The young people exercised their bows
+and arrows in shooting at marks for beads, which we distributed to the
+best marksmen; and in the evening the whole party danced until a late
+hour, and in the course of their amusement we threw among them some
+knives, tobacco, bells, tape, and binding, with which they were much
+pleased. Their musical instruments were the drum, and a sort of little
+bag made of buffaloe hide, dressed white, with small shot or pebbles in
+it, and a bunch of hair tied to it. This produces a sort of rattling
+music, with which the party was annoyed by four musicians during the
+council this morning.
+
+August 31. In the morning, after breakfast, the chiefs met, and sat down
+in a row, with pipes of peace, highly ornamented, and all pointed
+towards the seats intended for captains Lewis and Clarke. When they
+arrived and were seated, the grand chief, whose Indian name, Weucha, is,
+in English Shake Hand, and, in French, is called Le Liberateur (the
+deliverer) rose, and spoke at some length, approving what we had said,
+and promising to follow our advice:
+
+"I see before me," said he, "my great father's two sons. You see me, and
+the rest of our chiefs and warriors. We are very poor; we have neither
+powder nor ball, nor knives; and our women and children at the village
+have no clothes. I wish that as my brothers have given me a flag and a
+medal, they would give something to those poor people, or let them stop
+and trade with the first boat which comes up the river. I will bring
+chiefs of the Pawnees and Mahas together, and make peace between them;
+but it is better that I should do it than my great father's sons, for
+they will listen to me more readily. I will also take some chiefs to
+your country in the spring; but before that time I cannot leave home. I
+went formerly to the English, and they gave me a medal and some clothes:
+when I went to the Spanish they gave me a medal, but nothing to keep it
+from my skin; but now you give me a medal and clothes. But still we are
+poor; and I wish, brothers, you would give us something for our squaws."
+
+"When he sat down, Mahtoree, or White Crane, rose:
+
+"I have listened," said he, "to what our father's words were yesterday;
+and I am, to-day, glad to see how you have dressed our old chief. I am a
+young man, and do not wish to take much: my fathers have made me a
+chief: I had much sense before, but now I think I have more than ever.
+What the old chief has declared I will confirm, and do whatever he and
+you please: but I wish that you would take pity on us, for we are very
+poor."
+
+Another chief, called Pawnawneahpahbe, then said;
+
+"I am a young man, and know but little: I cannot speak well; but I have
+listened to what you have told the old chief, and will do whatever you
+agree."
+
+The same sentiments were then repeated by Aweawechache.
+
+We were surprised at finding that the first of these titles means
+"Struck by the Pawnee," and was occasioned by some blow which the chief
+had received in battle, from one of the Pawnee tribe. The second is, in
+English, "Half Man," which seems a singular name for a warrior, till it
+was explained to have its origin, probably, in the modesty of the chief;
+who, on being told of his exploits, would say, "I am no warrior: I am
+only half a man." The other chiefs spoke very little; but after they had
+finished, one of the warriors delivered a speech, in which he declared
+he would support them. They promised to make peace with the Ottoes
+and Missouris, the only nations with whom they are at war. All these
+harangues concluded by describing the distress of the nation: they
+begged us to have pity on them: to send them traders: that they wanted
+powder and ball; and seemed anxious that we should supply them with
+some of their great father's milk, the name by which they distinguish
+ardent spirits. We then gave some tobacco to each of the chiefs, and a
+certificate to two of the warriors who attended the chief. We prevailed
+on Mr. Durion to remain here, and accompany as many of the Sioux chiefs
+as he could collect, down to the seat of government. We also gave his
+son a flag, some clothes, and provisions, with directions to bring about
+a peace between the surrounding tribe, and to convey some of their
+chiefs to see the president. In the evening they left us, and encamped
+on the opposite bank, accompanied by the two Durions. During the evening
+and night we had much rain, and observed that the river rises a little.
+The Indians, who have just left us, are the Yanktons, a tribe of the
+great nation of Sioux. These Yanktons are about two hundred men in
+number; and inhabit the Jacques, Desmoines, and Sioux rivers. In person
+they are stout, well proportioned, and have a certain air of dignity and
+boldness. In their dress they differ nothing from the other bands of
+the nation whom we saw, and will describe afterwards: they are fond of
+decorations, and use paint, and porcupine quills, and feathers. Some of
+them wore a kind of necklace of white bear's claws, three inches long,
+and closely strung together round their necks. They have only a few
+fowling pieces, being generally armed with bows and arrows, in which,
+however, they do not appear as expert as the more northern Indians. What
+struck us most was an institution, peculiar to them, and to the Kite
+Indians, further to the westward, from whom it is said to have been
+copied. It is an association of the most active and brave young men,
+who are bound to each other by attachment, secured by a vow, never to
+retreat before any danger, or give way to their enemies. In war they go
+forward without sheltering themselves behind trees, or aiding their
+natural valour by any artifice. This punctilious determination, not to
+be turned from their course, became heroic, or ridiculous, a short time
+since, when the Yanktons were crossing the Missouri on the ice. A hole
+lay immediately in their course, which might easily have been avoided,
+by going round. This the foremost of the band disdained to do; but went
+straight forward, and was lost. The others would have followed his
+example, but were forcibly prevented by the rest of the tribe. These
+young men sit, and encamp, and dance together, distinct from the rest of
+the nation: they are generally about thirty or thirty-five years old;
+and such is the deference paid to courage, that their seats in council
+are superior to those of the chiefs, and their persons more respected.
+But, as may be supposed, such indiscreet bravery will soon diminish the
+numbers of those who practise it; so that the band is now reduced to
+four warriors, who were among our visitors. These were the remains of
+twenty-two, who composed the society not long ago; but, in a battle with
+the Kite Indians, of the Black Mountains, eighteen of them were killed,
+and these four were dragged from the field by their companions.
+
+Whilst these Indians remained with us we made very minute inquiries
+relative to their situation and numbers, and trade, and manners. This we
+did very satisfactorily, by means of two different interpreters; and
+from their accounts, joined to our interviews with other bands of the
+same nation, and much intelligence acquired since, we were enabled to
+understand, with some accuracy, the condition of the Sioux hitherto so
+little known.
+
+The Sioux, or Dacorta Indians, originally settled on the Mississippi,
+and called by Carver, Madowesians, are now subdivided into tribes, as
+follow:
+
+First, The Yanktons: this tribe inhabits the Sioux, Desmoines, and
+Jacques rivers, and number about two hundred warriors.
+
+Second, The Tetons of the burnt woods. This tribe numbers about three
+hundred men, who rove on both sides of the Missouri, the White, and
+Teton rivers.
+
+Third. The Tetons Okandandas, a tribe consisting of about one hundred
+and fifty men, who inhabit both sides of the Missouri below the Chayenne
+river.
+
+Fourth, Tetons Minnakenozzo, a nation inhabiting both sides of the
+Missouri, above the Chayenne river, and containing about two hundred and
+fifty men.
+
+Fifth, Tetons Saone; these inhabit both sides of the Missouri below the
+Warreconne river, and consist of about three hundred men.
+
+Sixth, Yanktons of the Plains, or Big Devils; who rove on the heads of
+the Sioux, Jacques, and Red river; the most numerous of all the tribes,
+and number about five hundred men.
+
+Seventh, Wahpatone; a nation residing on the St. Peter's, just above the
+mouth of that river, and numbering two hundred men.
+
+Eighth, Mindawarcarton, or proper Dacorta or Sioux Indians. These
+possess the original seat of the Sioux, and are properly so denominated.
+They rove on both sides of the Mississippi, about the falls of St.
+Anthony, and consist of three hundred men.
+
+Ninth, The Wahpatoota, or Leaf Beds. This nation inhabits both sides of
+the river St. Peter's, below Yellow-wood river, amounting to about one
+hundred and fifty men.
+
+Tenth, Sistasoone: this nation numbers two hundred men, and reside at
+the head of the St. Peter's. Of these several tribes, more particular
+notice will be taken hereafter.
+
+Saturday, September 1, 1804. We proceeded this morning under a light
+southern breeze, and passed the Calumet bluffs; these are composed of
+a yellowish red, and brownish clay as hard as chalk, which it much
+resembles, and are one hundred and seventy, or one hundred and eighty
+feet high. At this place the hills on each side come to the verge of the
+river, those on the south being higher than on the north. Opposite the
+bluffs is a large island covered with timber; above which the highlands
+form a cliff over the river on the north side, called White Bear cliff;
+an animal of that kind being killed in one of the holes in it, which
+are numerous and apparently deep. At six miles we came to a large sand
+island covered with cottonwood; the wind was high, and the weather rainy
+and cloudy during the day. We made fifteen miles to a place on the north
+side, at the lower point of a large island called Bonhomme, or Goodman's
+island. The country on both sides has the same character of prairies,
+with no timber; with occasional lowlands covered with cottonwood, elm
+and oak: our hunters had killed an elk and a beaver: the catfish too are
+in great abundance.
+
+September 2. It rained last night, and this morning we had a high wind
+from the N.W. We went three miles to the lower part of an ancient
+fortification on the south side, and passed the head of Bonhomme island,
+which is large and well timbered: after this the wind became so violent,
+attended by a cold rain, that we were compelled to land at four miles on
+the northern side, under a high bluff of yellow clay, about one hundred
+and ten feet in height. Our hunters supplied us with four elk; and we
+had grapes and plums on the banks: we also saw the beargrass and rue,
+on the side of the bluffs. At this place there are highlands on both
+sides of the river which become more level at some distance back, and
+contain but few streams of water. On the southern bank, during this day,
+the grounds have not been so elevated. Captain Clarke crossed the river
+to examine the remains of the fortification we had just passed.
+
+                    [Illustration: Fortification]
+
+This interesting object is on the south side of the Missouri, opposite
+the upper extremity of Bonhomme island, and in a low level plain, the
+hills being three miles from the river. It begins by a wall composed of
+earth, rising immediately from the bank of the river and running in a
+direct course S. 76 degrees, W. ninety six yards; the base of this wall
+or mound is seventy-five feet, and its height about eight. It then
+diverges in a course S. 84 degrees W. and continues at the same height
+and depth to the distance of fifty-three yards, the angle being formed
+by a sloping descent; at the junction of these two is an appearance of
+a hornwork of the same height with the first angle: the same wall then
+pursues a course N. 69 degrees W. for three hundred yards: near its
+western extremity is an opening or gateway at right angles to the
+wall, and projecting inwards; this gateway is defended by two nearly
+semicircular walls placed before it, lower than the large walls; and
+from the gateway there seems to have been a covered way communicating
+with the interval between these two walls: westward of the gate, the
+wall becomes much larger, being about one hundred and five feet at its
+base, and twelve feet high: at the end of this high ground the wall
+extends for fifty-six yards on a course N. 32 degrees W; it then turns
+N. 23 degrees W. for seventy-three yards: these two walls seems to have
+had a double or covered way; they are from ten to fifteen feet eight
+inches in height, and from seventy-five to one hundred and five feet in
+width at the base; the descent inwards being steep, whilst outwards it
+forms a sort of glacis. At the distance of seventy-three yards, the wall
+ends abruptly at a large hollow place much lower than the general level
+of the plain, and from which is some indication of a covered way to the
+water. The space between them is occupied by several mounds scattered
+promiscuously through the gorge, in the centre of which is a deep round
+hole. From the extremity of the last wall, in a course N. 32 degrees W.
+is a distance of ninety-six yards over the low ground, where the wall
+recommences and crosses the plain in a course N. 81 degrees W. for
+eighteen hundred and thirty yards to the bank of the Missouri. In this
+course its height is about eight feet, till it enters, at the distance
+of five hundred and thirty-three yards, a deep circular pond of
+seventy-three yards diameter; after which it is gradually lower, towards
+the river: it touches the river at a muddy bar, which bears every mark
+of being an encroachment of the water, for a considerable distance; and
+a little above the junction, is a small circular redoubt. Along the bank
+of the river, and at eleven hundred yards distance, in a straight line
+from this wall, is a second, about six feet high, and of considerable
+width: it rises abruptly from the bank of the Missouri, at a point where
+the river bends, and goes straight forward, forming an acute angle with
+the last wall, till it enters the river again, not far from the mounds
+just described, towards which it is obviously tending. At the bend the
+Missouri is five hundred yards wide; the ground on the opposite side
+highlands, or low hills on the bank; and where the river passes between
+this fort and Bonhomme island, all the distance from the bend, it is
+constantly washing the banks into the stream, a large sandbank being
+already taken from the shore near the wall. During the whole course of
+this wall, or glacis, it is covered with trees, among which are many
+large cotton trees, two or three feet in diameter. Immediately opposite
+the citadel, or the part most strongly fortified, on Bonhomme island, is
+a small work in a circular form, with a wall surrounding it, about six
+feet in height. The young willows along the water, joined to the general
+appearance of the two shores, induce a belief that the bank of the
+island is encroaching, and the Missouri indemnifies itself by washing
+away the base of the fortification. The citadel contains about twenty
+acres, but the parts between the long walls must embrace nearly five
+hundred acres.
+
+These are the first remains of the kind which we have had an opportunity
+of examining; but our French interpreters assure us, that there are
+great numbers of them on the Platte, the Kanzas, the Jacques, &c. and
+some of our party say, that they observed two of those fortresses on the
+upper side of the Petit Arc creek, not far from its mouth; that the wall
+was about six feet high, and the sides of the angles one hundred yards
+in length.
+
+September 3. The morning was cold, and the wind from the northwest. We
+passed at sunrise, three large sandbars, and at the distance of ten
+miles reached a small creek, about twelve yards wide, coming in from the
+north, above a white bluff: this creek has obtained the name of Plum
+creek, from the number of that fruit which are in the neighbourhood, and
+of a delightful quality. Five miles further, we encamped on the south
+near the edge of a plain; the river is wide, and covered with sandbars
+to-day: the banks are high and of a whitish colour; the timber scarce,
+but an abundance of grapes. Beaver houses too have been observed in
+great numbers on the river, but none of the animals themselves.
+
+September 4. We set out early, with a very cold wind from S.S.E. and at
+one mile and a half, reached a small creek, called Whitelime creek, on
+the south side. Just above this is a cliff, covered with cedar trees,
+and at three miles a creek, called Whitepaint creek, of about thirty
+yards wide: on the same side, and at four and a half miles distance from
+the Whitepaint creek, is the Rapid river, or, as it is called by the
+French, la Riverequi Court; this river empties into the Missouri, in a
+course S.W. by W. and is one hundred and fifty-two yards wide, and four
+feet deep at the confluence. It rises in the Black mountains, and passes
+through a hilly country, with a poor soil. Captain Clark ascended three
+miles to a beautiful plain, on the upper side, where the Pawnees once
+had a village: he found that the river widened above its mouth, and
+much divided by sands and islands, which, joined to the great rapidity
+of the current, makes the navigation very difficult, even for small
+boats. Like the Platte its waters are of a light colour; like that river
+too it throws out into the Missouri, great quantities of sand, coarser
+even than that of the Platte, which form sandbars and shoals near its
+mouth.
+
+We encamped just above it, on the south, having made only eight miles,
+as the wind shifted to the south, and blew so hard that in the course of
+the day we broke our mast: we saw some deer, a number of geese, and shot
+a turkey and a duck: the place in which we halted is a fine low-ground,
+with much timber, such as red cedar, honeylocust, oak, arrowwood, elm
+and coffeenut.
+
+September 5, Wednesday. The wind was again high from the south. At five
+miles, we came to a large island, called Pawnee island, in the middle of
+the river; and stopped to breakfast at a small creek on the north, which
+has the name of Goat creek, at eight and a half miles. Near the mouth of
+this creek the beaver had made a dam across so as to form a large pond,
+in which they built their houses. Above this island the river Poncara
+falls into the Missouri from the south, and is thirty yards wide at the
+entrance. Two men whom we despatched to the village of the same name,
+returned with information that they had found it on the lower side of
+the creek; but as this is the hunting season, the town was so completely
+deserted that they had killed a buffaloe in the village itself. This
+tribe of Poncaras, who are said to have once numbered four hundred
+men, are now reduced to about fifty, and have associated for mutual
+protection with the Mahas, who are about two hundred in number. These
+two nations are allied by a similarity of misfortune; they were once
+both numerous, both resided in villages, and cultivated Indian corn;
+their common enemies, the Sioux and small-pox, drove them from their
+towns, which they visit only occasionally for the purposes of trade;
+and they now wander over the plains on the sources of the Wolf and
+Quieurre rivers. Between the Pawnee island and Goat creek on the north,
+is a cliff of blue earth, under which are several mineral springs,
+impregnated with salts: near this we observed a number of goats, from
+which the creek derives its name. At three and a half miles from the
+creek, we came to a large island on the south, along which we passed to
+the head of it, and encamped about four o'clock. Here we replaced the
+mast we had lost, with a new one of cedar: some bucks and an elk were
+procured to-day, and a black tailed deer was seen near the Poncara's
+village.
+
+Thursday, September 6. There was a storm this morning from the N.W.
+and though it moderated, the wind was still high, and the weather very
+cold; the number of sandbars too, added to the rapidity of the current,
+obliged us to have recourse to the towline: with all our exertions we
+did not make more than eight and a half miles, and encamped on the
+north, after passing high cliffs of soft, blue, and red coloured stone,
+on the southern shore. We saw some goats, and great numbers of buffaloe,
+in addition to which the hunters furnished us with elk, deer, turkies,
+geese, and one beaver: a large catfish too was caught in the evening.
+The ground near the camp, was a low prarie, without timber, though just
+below is a grove of cottonwood.
+
+Friday, September 7. The morning was very cold and the wind southeast.
+At five and a half miles, we reached and encamped at the foot of a round
+mountain, on the south, having passed two small islands. This mountain,
+which is about three hundred feet at the base, forms a cone at the top,
+resembling a dome at a distance, and seventy feet or more above the
+surrounding highlands. As we descended from this dome, we arrived at a
+spot, on the gradual descent of the hill, nearly four acres in extent,
+and covered with small holes: these are the residence of a little
+animal, called by the French, petit chien (little dog) who sit erect
+near the mouth, and make a whistling noise, but when alarmed take refuge
+in their holes. In order to bring them out, we poured into one of the
+holes five barrels of water without filling it, but we dislodged and
+caught the owner. After digging down another of the holes for six feet,
+we found, on running a pole into it, that we had not yet dug half way
+to the bottom: we discovered, however, two frogs in the hole, and near
+it we killed a dark rattlesnake, which had swallowed a small prairie
+dog: we were also informed, though we never witnessed the fact, that a
+sort of lizard, and a snake, live habitually with these animals. The
+petit chien are justly named, as they resemble a small dog in some
+particulars, though they have also some points of similarity to the
+squirrel. The head resembles the squirrel in every respect, except that
+the ear is shorter, the tail like that of the ground-squirrel, the
+toe-nails are long, the fur is fine, and the long hair is gray.
+
+Saturday, September 8. The wind still continued from the southeast, but
+moderately. At seven miles we reached a house on the north side, called
+the Pawnee house, where a trader, named Trudeau, wintered in the year
+1796-7: behind this, hills, much higher than usual, appear to the north,
+about eight miles off. Before reaching this house, we came by three
+small islands, on the north side, and a small creek on the south; and
+after leaving it, reached another, at the end of seventeen miles, on
+which we encamped, and called it Boat island: we here saw herds of
+buffaloe, and some elk, deer, turkies, beaver, a squirrel, and a prairie
+dog. The party on the north represent the country through which they
+passed, as poor, rugged, and hilly, with the appearance of having been
+lately burnt by the Indians; the broken hills, indeed, approach the
+river on both sides, though each is bordered by a strip of woodland near
+the water.
+
+Sunday, September 9. We coasted along the island on which we had
+encamped, and then passed three sand and willow islands, and a number of
+smaller sandbars. The river is shallow, and joined by two small creeks
+from the north, and one from the south. In the plains, to the south,
+are great numbers of buffaloe, in herds of nearly five hundred; all
+the copses of timber appear to contain elk or deer. We encamped on a
+sandbar, on the southern shore, at the distance of fourteen and a
+quarter miles.
+
+September 10, Monday. The next day we made twenty miles. The morning was
+cloudy and dark, but a light breeze from the southeast carried us past
+two small islands on the south, and one on the north; till, at the
+distance of ten and a half miles, we reached an island, extending for
+two miles in the middle of the river, covered with red cedar, from which
+it derives its name of Cedar island. Just below this island, on a hill,
+to the south, is the backbone of a fish, forty-five feet long, tapering
+towards the tail, and in a perfect state of petrifaction, fragments of
+which were collected and sent to Washington. On both sides of the river
+are high dark-coloured bluffs. About a mile and a half from the island,
+on the southern shore, the party on that side discovered a large and
+very strong impregnated spring of water; and another, not so strongly
+impregnated, half a mile up the hill. Three miles beyond Cedar island is
+a large island on the north, and a number of sandbars. After which is
+another, about a mile in length, lying in the middle of the river, and
+separated by a small channel, at its extremity, from another above it,
+on which we encamped. These two islands are called Mud islands. The
+river is shallow during this day's course, and is falling a little.
+The elk and buffaloe are in great abundance, but the deer have become
+scarce.
+
+September 11, Tuesday. At six and a half miles we passed the upper
+extremity of an island on the south; four miles beyond which is another
+on the same side of the river; and about a quarter of a mile distant we
+visited a large village of the barking-squirrel. It was situated on a
+gentle declivity, and covered a space of nine hundred and seventy yards
+long, and eight hundred yards wide; we killed four of them. We then
+resumed our course, and during five and a half miles passed two islands
+on the north, and then encamped at the distance of sixteen miles, on the
+south side of the river, and just above a small run. The morning had
+been cloudy, but in the afternoon it began raining, with a high
+northwest wind, which continued during the greater part of the night.
+The country seen to-day consists of narrow strips of lowland, rising
+into uneven grounds, which are succeeded, at the distance of three
+miles, by rich and level plains, but without any timber. The river
+itself is wide, and crowded with sandbars. Elk, deer, squirrels, a
+pelican, and a very large porcupine, were our game this day; some foxes
+too were seen, but not caught.
+
+In the morning we observed a man riding on horseback down towards the
+boat, and we were much pleased to find that it was George Shannon, one
+of our party, for whose safety we had been very uneasy. Our two horses
+having strayed from us on the 26th of August, he was sent to search for
+them. After he had found them he attempted to rejoin us, but seeing some
+other tracks, which must have been those of Indians, and which he
+mistook for our own, he concluded that we were ahead, and had been for
+sixteen days following the bank of the river above us. During the first
+four days he exhausted his bullets, and was then nearly starved, being
+obliged to subsist, for twelve days, on a few grapes, and a rabbit which
+he killed by making use of a hard piece of stick for a ball. One of his
+horses gave out, and was left behind; the other he kept as a last
+resource for food. Despairing of overtaking us, he was returning down
+the river, in hopes of meeting some other boat; and was on the point of
+killing his horse, when he was so fortunate as to join us.
+
+Wednesday, September 12. The day was dark and cloudy; the wind from the
+northwest. At a short distance we reached an island in the middle of the
+river, which is covered with timber, a rare object now. We with great
+difficulty were enabled to struggle through the sandbars, the water
+being very rapid and shallow, so that we were several hours in making a
+mile. Several times the boat wheeled on the bar, and the men were
+obliged to jump out and prevent her from upsetting; at others, after
+making a way up one channel, the shoalness of the water forced us back
+to seek the deep channel. We advanced only four miles in the whole day
+and encamped on the south. Along both sides of the river are high
+grounds; on the southern side particularly, they form dark bluffs, in
+which may be observed slate and coal intermixed. We saw also several
+villages of barking-squirrels; great numbers of growse, and three foxes.
+
+September 13, Thursday. We made twelve miles to-day through a number of
+sandbars, which make it difficult to find the proper channel. The hills
+on each side are high, and separated from the river by a narrow plain on
+its borders. On the north, these lowlands are covered in part with
+timber, and great quantities of grapes, which are now ripe: on the south
+we found plenty of plums, but they are not yet ripe; and near the dark
+bluffs, a run tainted with allum and copperas; the southern side being
+more strongly impregnated with minerals than the northern. Last night
+four beaver were caught in the traps; a porcupine was shot as it was
+upon a cottontree, feeding on its leaves and branches. We encamped on
+the north side, opposite to a small willow island. At night the
+musquitoes were very troublesome, though the weather was cold and rainy
+and the wind from the northwest.
+
+Friday, September 14. At two miles we reached a round island on the
+northern side; at about five, a run on the south; two and a half miles
+further, a small creek; and at nine miles encamped near the month of a
+creek, on the same side. The sandbars are very numerous, and render the
+river wide and shallow, and obliged the crew to get into the water and
+drag the boat over the bars several times. During the whole day we
+searched along the southern shore, and at some distance into the
+interior, to find an ancient volcano which we heard at St. Charles was
+somewhere in this neighbourhood; but we could not discern the slightest
+appearance of any thing volcanic. In the course of their search the
+party shot a buck-goat and a hare. The hills, particularly on the south,
+continue high, but the timber is confined to the islands and banks of
+the river. We had occasion here to observe the rapid undermining of
+these hills by the Missouri: the first attacks seem to be on the hills
+which overhang the river; as soon as the violence of the current
+destroys the grass at the foot of them, the whole texture appears
+loosened, and the ground dissolves and mixes with the water: the muddy
+mixture is then forced over the low-grounds, which it covers sometimes
+to the depth of three inches, and gradually destroys the herbage; after
+which it can offer no resistance to the water, and becomes at last
+covered with sand.
+
+Saturday, September 15. We passed, at an early hour, the creek near our
+last night's encampment; and at two miles distance reached the mouth of
+White river, coming in from the south. We ascended a short distance, and
+sent a sergeant and another man to examine it higher up. This river has
+a bed of about three hundred yards, though the water is confined to one
+hundred and fifty: in the mouth is a sand island, and several sandbars.
+The current is regular and swift, with sandbars projecting from the
+points. It differs very much from the Platte, and Quieurre, in throwing
+out, comparatively, little sand, but its general character is like that
+of the Missouri. This resemblance was confirmed by the sergeant, who
+ascended about twelve miles; at which distance it was about the same
+width as near the mouth, and the course, which was generally west, had
+been interrupted by islands and sandbars. The timber consisted chiefly
+of elm; they saw pine burrs, and sticks of birch were seen floating down
+the river; they had also met with goats, such as we have heretofore
+seen; great quantities of buffaloe, near to which were wolves, some
+deer, and villages of barking squirrels. At the confluence of White
+river with the Missouri is an excellent position for a town; the land
+rising by three gradual ascents, and the neighbourhood furnishing more
+timber than is usual in this country. After passing high dark bluffs on
+both sides, we reached the lower point of an island towards the south,
+at the distance of six miles. The island bears an abundance of grapes,
+and is covered with red cedar: it also contains a number of rabbits. At
+the end of this island, which is small, a narrow channel separates it
+from a large sand island, which we passed, and encamped, eight miles on
+the north, under a high point of land opposite a large creek to the
+south, on which we observe an unusual quantity of timber. The wind was
+from the northwest this afternoon, and high, the weather cold, and its
+dreariness increased by the howlings of a number of wolves around us.
+
+September 16, Sunday. Early this morning, having reached a convenient
+spot on the south side, and at one mile and a quarter distance, we
+encamped just above a small creek, which we called Corvus, having killed
+an animal of that genus near it. Finding that we could not proceed over
+the sandbars, as fast as we desired, while the boat was so heavily
+loaded, we concluded not to send back, as we originally intended, our
+third periogue, but to detain the soldiers until spring, and in the mean
+time lighten the boat by loading the periogue: this operation, added to
+that of drying all our wet articles, detained us during the day. Our
+camp is in a beautiful plain, with timber thinly scattered for three
+quarters of a mile, and consisting chiefly of elm, cottonwood, some ash
+of an indifferent quality, and a considerable quantity of a small
+species of white oak: this tree seldom rises higher than thirty feet,
+and branches very much; the bark is rough, thick and of a light colour;
+the leaves small, deeply indented, and of a pale green; the cup which
+contains the acorn is fringed on the edges, and embraces it about one
+half: the acorn itself, which grows in great profusion, is of an
+excellent flavour, and has none of the roughness which most other acorns
+possess; they are now falling, and have probably attracted the number of
+deer which we saw on this place, as all the animals we have seen are
+fond of that food. The ground having been recently burnt by the Indians,
+is covered with young green grass, and in the neighbourhood are great
+quantities of fine plums. We killed a few deer for the sake of their
+skins, which we wanted to cover the periogues, the meat being too poor
+for food: the cold season coming on, a flannel shirt was given to each
+man, and fresh powder to those who had exhausted their supply.
+
+Monday, September 16. Whilst some of the party were engaged in the same
+way as yesterday, others were employed in examining the surrounding
+country. About a quarter of a mile behind our camp, and at an elevation
+of twenty feet above it, a plain extends nearly three miles parallel to
+the river, and about a mile back to the hills, towards which it
+gradually ascends. Here we saw a grove of plum-trees loaded with fruit,
+now ripe, and differing in nothing from those of the Atlantic states,
+except that the tree is smaller and more thickly set. The ground of the
+plain is occupied by the burrows of multitudes of barking squirrels, who
+entice hither the wolves of a small kind, hawks, and polecats, all of
+which animals we saw, and presumed that they fed on the squirrel. This
+plain is intersected nearly in its whole extent by deep ravines and
+steep irregular rising grounds from one to two hundred feet. On
+ascending the range of hills which border the plain, we saw a second
+high level plain stretching to the south as far as the eye could reach.
+To the westward, a high range of hills about twenty miles distant runs
+nearly north and south, but not to any great extent, as their rise and
+termination is embraced by one view, and they seemed covered with a
+verdure similar to that of the plains. The same view extended over the
+irregular hills which border the northern side of the Missouri; all
+around the country had been recently burnt, and a young green grass
+about four inches high covered the ground, which was enlivened by herds
+of antelopes and buffaloe; the last of which were in such multitudes,
+that we cannot exaggerate in saying that at a single glance we saw three
+thousand of them before us. Of all the animals we had seen the antelope
+seems to possess the most wonderful fleetness: shy and timorous they
+generally repose only on the ridges, which command a view of all the
+approaches of an enemy: the acuteness of their sight distinguishes the
+most distant danger, the delicate sensibility of their smell defeats the
+precautions of concealment, and when alarmed their rapid career seems
+more like the flight of birds than the movements of an earthly being.
+After many unsuccessful attempts, captain Lewis at last, by winding
+around the ridges, approached a party of seven, which were on an
+eminence, towards which the wind was unfortunately blowing. The only
+male of the party frequently encircled the summit of the hill, as if to
+announce any danger to the females, who formed a group at the top.
+Although they did not see captain Lewis, the smell alarmed them, and
+they fled when he was at the distance of two hundred yards: he
+immediately ran to the spot where they had been, a ravine concealed them
+from him, but the next moment they appeared on a second ridge at the
+distance of three miles. He doubted whether it could be the same, but
+their number and the extreme rapidity with which they continued their
+course, convinced him that they must have gone with a speed equal to
+that of the most distinguished racehorse. Among our acquisitions to-day
+was a mule-deer, a magpie, the common deer, and buffaloe: captain Lewis
+also saw a hare, and killed a rattlesnake near the burrows of the
+barking squirrels.
+
+Tuesday, September 18. Having everything in readiness we proceeded,
+with the boat much lightened, but the wind being from the N.W. we made
+but little way. At one mile we reached an island in the middle of the
+river, nearly a mile in length, and covered with red cedar; at its
+extremity a small creek comes in from the north; we then met some
+sandbars, and the wind being very high and ahead, we encamped on the
+south, having made only seven miles. In addition to the common deer,
+which were in great abundance, we saw goats, elk, buffaloe, the black
+tailed deer; the large wolves too are very numerous, and have long hair
+with coarse fur, and are of a light colour. A small species of wolf
+about the size of a gray fox was also killed, and proved to be the
+animal which we had hitherto mistaken for a fox: there are also many
+porcupines, rabbits, and barking squirrels in the neighbourhood.
+
+September 19. We this day enjoyed a cool clear morning, and a wind from
+the southeast. We reached at three miles a bluff on the south, and four
+miles farther, the lower point of Prospect island, about two and a half
+miles in length; opposite to this are high bluffs, about eighty feet
+above the water, beyond which are beautiful plains gradually rising as
+they recede from the river: these are watered by three streams which
+empty near each other; the first is about thirty-five yards wide, the
+ground on its sides high and rich, with some timber; the second about
+twelve yards wide, but with less timber; the third is nearly of the same
+size, and contains more water, but it scatters its waters over the large
+timbered plain, and empties itself into the river at three places. These
+rivers are called by the French Les trois rivieres des Sioux, the three
+Sioux rivers; and as the Sioux generally cross the Missouri at this
+place, it is called the Sioux pass of the three rivers. These streams
+have the same right of asylum, though in a less degree than Pipestone
+creek already mentioned.
+
+Two miles from the island we passed a creek fifteen yards wide; eight
+miles further, another twenty yards wide; three miles beyond which, is a
+third of eighteen yards width, all on the south side: the second which
+passes through a high plain we called Elm creek; to the third we gave
+the name of Night creek, having reached it late at night. About a mile
+beyond this is a small island on the north side of the river, and is
+called Lower island, as it is situated at the commencement of what is
+known by the name of the Grand Detour, or Great Bend of the Missouri.
+Opposite is a creek on the south about ten yards wide, which waters a
+plain where there are great numbers of the prickley pear, which name we
+gave to the creek. We encamped on the south, opposite the upper
+extremity of the island, having made an excellent day's sail of twenty
+six and a quarter miles. Our game this day consisted chiefly of deer, of
+these four were black tails, one a buck with two main prongs of horns on
+each side and forked equally. Large herds of buffaloe, elk and goats,
+were also seen.
+
+Thursday, September 20. Finding we had reached the Big Bend, we
+despatched two men with our only horse across the neck, to hunt there
+and wait our arrival at the first creek beyond it. We then set out with
+fair weather and the wind from S.E. to make the circuit of the bend.
+Near the lower island the sandbars are numerous, and the river shallow.
+At nine and a half miles is a sand island, on the southern side. About
+ten miles beyond it is a small island on the south, opposite to a small
+creek on the north. This island, which is near the N.W. extremity of the
+bend, is called Solitary island. At about eleven miles further, we
+encamped on a sandbar, having made twenty-seven and a half miles.
+Captain Clarke, who early this morning had crossed the neck of the bend,
+joined us in the evening. At the narrowest part, the gorge is composed
+of high and irregular hills of about one hundred and eighty or one
+hundred and ninety feet in elevation; from this descends an unbroken
+plain over the whole of the bend, and the country is separated from it
+by this ridge. Great numbers of buffaloe, elk, and goats are wandering
+over these plains, accompanied by grouse and larks. Captain Clarke saw a
+hare also, on the Great Bend. Of the goats killed to-day, one is a
+female differing from the male in being smaller in size; its horns too
+are smaller and straighter, having one short prong, and no black about
+the neck: none of these goats have any beard, but are delicately formed,
+and very beautiful.
+
+Friday, September 21. Between one and two o'clock the serjeant on guard
+alarmed us, by crying that the sandbar on which we lay was sinking; we
+jumped up, and found that both above and below our camp the sand was
+undermined and falling in very fast: we had scarcely got into the boats
+and pushed off, when the bank under which they had been lying, fell in,
+and would certainly have sunk the two periogues if they had remained
+there. By the time we reached the opposite shore the ground of our
+encampment sunk also. We formed a second camp for the rest of the night;
+and at daylight proceeded on to the gorge or throat of the Great Bend,
+where we breakfasted. A man, whom we had despatched to step off the
+distance across the bend, made it two thousand yards: the circuit is
+thirty miles. During the whole course, the land of the bend is low, with
+occasional bluffs; that on the opposite side, high prairie ground, and
+long ridges of dark bluffs. After breakfast, we passed through a high
+prairie on the north side, and a rich cedar lowland and cedar bluff on
+the south, till we reached a willow island below the mouth of a small
+creek. This creek, called Tyler's river, is about thirty-five yards
+wide, comes in on the south, and is at the distance of six miles from
+the neck of the Great Bend. Here we found a deer, and the skin of a
+white wolf, left us by our hunters ahead: large quantities of different
+kinds of plover and brants are in this neighbourhood, and seen
+collecting and moving towards the south; the catfish are small, and not
+in such plenty as we had found them below this place. We passed several
+sandbars, which make the river very shallow and about a mile in width,
+and encamped on the south, at the distance of eleven and a half miles.
+On each side the shore is lined with hard rough gulleystones, rolled
+from the hills and small brooks. The most common timber is the cedar,
+though, in the prairies, there are great quantities of the prickly pear.
+From this place we passed several sandbars, which make the river
+shallow, and about a mile in width. At the distance of eleven and a half
+miles, we encamped on the north at the lower point of an ancient island,
+which has since been connected with the main land by the filling up of
+the northern channel, and is now covered with cottonwood. We here saw
+some tracks of Indians, but they appeared three or four weeks old. This
+day was warm.
+
+September 22. A thick fog detained us until seven o'clock; our course
+was through inclined prairies on each side of the river, crowded with
+buffaloe. We halted at a point on the north side, near a high bluff on
+the south, and took a meridian altitude, which gave us the latitude of
+44 degrees 11' 33-3/10". On renewing our course, we reached first a
+small island on the south, at the distance of four and a half miles,
+immediately above which is another island opposite to a creek fifteen
+yards wide. This creek, and the two islands, one of which is half a mile
+long, and the second three miles, are called the Three Sisters: a
+beautiful plain extending on both sides of the river. This is followed
+by an island on the north, called Cedar island, about one mile and a
+half in length and the same distance in breadth, and deriving its name
+from the quality of the timber. On the south side of this island, is a
+fort and a large trading house, built by a Mr. Loisel, who wintered here
+during the last year, in order to trade with the Sioux, the remains of
+whose camps are in great numbers about this place. The establishment is
+sixty or seventy feet square, built with red cedar and picketted in
+with the same materials. The hunters who had been sent ahead joined us
+here. They mention that the hills are washed in gullies, in passing over
+which, some mineral substances had rotted and destroyed their moccasins;
+they had killed two deer and a beaver. At sixteen miles distance we came
+to on the north side at the mouth of a small creek. The large stones
+which we saw yesterday on the shores are now some distance in the river,
+and render the navigation dangerous. The musquitoes are still numerous
+in the low grounds.
+
+Sunday, September 23. We passed, with a light breeze from the southeast,
+a small island on the north, called Goat island; above which is a small
+creek, called by the party Smoke creek, as we observed a great smoke to
+the southwest on approaching it. At ten miles we came to the lower point
+of a large island, having passed two small willow islands with sandbars
+projecting from them. This island, which we called Elk island, is about
+two and a half miles long, and three quarters of a mile wide, situated
+near the south, and covered with cottonwood, the red currant, and
+grapes. The river is here almost straight for a considerable distance,
+wide and shallow, with many sandbars. A small creek on the north, about
+sixteen yards wide, we called Reuben's creek; as Reuben Fields, one of
+our men, was the first of the party who reached it. At a short distance
+above this we encamped for the night, having made twenty miles. The
+country, generally, consists of low, rich, timbered ground on the north,
+and high barren lands on the south: on both sides great numbers of
+buffaloe are feeding. In the evening three boys of the Sioux nation swam
+across the river, and informed us that two parties of Sioux were
+encamped on the next river, one consisting of eighty, and the second of
+sixty lodges, at some distance above. After treating them kindly we sent
+them back with a present of two carrots of tobacco to their chiefs, whom
+we invited to a conference in the morning.
+
+Monday, September 24. The wind was from the east, and the day fair; we
+soon passed a handsome prairie on the north side, covered with ripe
+plums, and the mouth of a creek on the south, called Highwater creek, a
+little above our encampment. At about five miles we reached an island
+two and a half miles in length, and situated near the south. Here we
+were joined by one of our hunters, who procured four elk, but whilst he
+was in pursuit of the game the Indians had stolen his horse. We left the
+island, and soon overtook five Indians on the shore: we anchored and
+told them from the boat we were friends and wished to continue so, but
+were not afraid of any Indians; that some of their young men had stolen
+the horse which their great father had sent for their great chief, and
+that we could not treat with them until he was restored. They said that
+they knew nothing of the horse, but if he had been taken he should be
+given up. We went on, and at eleven and a half miles, passed an island
+on the north, which we called Good-humoured island; it is about one and
+a half miles long, and abounds in elk. At thirteen and a half miles, we
+anchored one hundred yards off the mouth of a river on the south side,
+where we were joined by both the periogues and encamped; two thirds of
+the party remained on board, and the rest went as a guard on shore with
+the cooks and one periogue; we have seen along the sides of the hills on
+the north a great deal of stone; besides the elk, we also observed a
+hare; the five Indians whom we had seen followed us, and slept with the
+guard on shore. Finding one of them was a chief we smoked with him, and
+made him a present of tobacco. This river is about seventy yards wide,
+and has a considerable current. As the tribe of the Sioux which inhabit
+it are called Teton, we gave it the name of Teton river.
+
+
+
+
+                                CHAP. IV.
+
+     Council held with the Tetons--Their manners, dances, &c.--Chayenne
+     River--Council held with the Ricara Indians--Their manners and
+     habits--Strange instance of Ricara idolatry--Another
+     instance--Cannonball river--Arrival among the Mandans--Character of
+     the surrounding country, and of the creeks, islands, &c.
+
+
+September 25. The morning was fine, and the wind continued from the
+southeast. We raised a flagstaff and an awning, under which we assembled
+at twelve o'clock, with all the party parading under arms. The chiefs
+and warriors from the camp two miles up the river, met us, about fifty
+or sixty in number, and after smoking delivered them a speech; but as
+our Sioux interpreter, Mr. Durion, had been left with the Yanktons, we
+were obliged to make use of a Frenchman who could not speak fluently,
+and therefore we curtailed our harangue. After this we went through the
+ceremony of acknowledging the chiefs, by giving to the grand chief a
+medal, a flag of the United States, a laced uniform coat, a cocked hat
+and feather: to the two other chiefs a medal and some small presents;
+and to two warriors of consideration certificates. The name of the great
+chief is Untongasabaw, or Black Buffaloe; the second Tortohonga, or the
+Partisan; the third Tartongawaka, or Buffaloe Medicine: the name of one
+of the warriors was Wawzinggo; that of the second Matocoquepa, or Second
+Bear. We then invited the chiefs on board, and showed them the boat, the
+airgun, and such curiosities as we thought might amuse them: In this we
+succeeded too well; for after giving them a quarter of a glass of
+whiskey, which they seemed to like very much, and sucked the bottle, it
+was with much difficulty that we could get rid of them. They at last
+accompanied captain Clarke on shore in a periogue with five men; but it
+seems they had formed a design to stop us; for no sooner had the party
+landed than three of the Indians seized the cable of the periogue, and
+one of the soldiers of the chief put his arms round the mast: the second
+chief who affected intoxication, then said, that we should not go on,
+that they had not received presents enough from us; captain Clarke told
+him that he would not be prevented from going on; that we were not
+squaws, but warriors; that we were sent by our great father, who could
+in a moment exterminate them: the chief replied, that he too had
+warriors, and was proceeding to offer personal violence to captain
+Clarke, who immediately drew his sword, and made a signal to the boat to
+prepare for action. The Indians who surrounded him, drew their arrows
+from their quivers and were bending their bows, when the swivel in the
+boat was instantly pointed towards them, and twelve of our most
+determined men jumped into the periogue and joined captain Clarke. This
+movement made an impression on them, for the grand chief ordered the
+young men away from the periogue, and they withdrew and held a short
+council with the warriors. Being unwilling to irritate them, captain
+Clarke then went forward and offered his hand to the first and second
+chiefs, who refused to take it. He then turned from them and got into
+the periogue, but had not gone more than ten paces when both the chiefs
+and two of the warriors waded in after him, and he brought them on
+board. We then proceeded on for a mile and anchored off a willow island,
+which from the circumstances which had just occurred, we called
+Badhumoured island.
+
+Wednesday, September 26. Our conduct yesterday seemed to have inspired
+the Indians with fear of us, and as we were desirous of cultivating
+their acquaintance, we complied with their wish that we should give them
+an opportunity of treating us well, and also suffer their squaws and
+children to see us and our boat, which would be perfectly new to them.
+Accordingly, after passing at one and a half mile a small willow island
+and several sandbars, we came to on the south side, where a crowd of
+men, women and children were waiting to receive us. Captain Lewis went
+on shore and remained several hours, and observing that their
+disposition was friendly we resolved to remain during the night to a
+dance, which they were preparing for us. Captains Lewis and Clarke, who
+went on shore one after the other, were met on landing by ten well
+dressed young men, who took them up in a robe highly decorated and
+carried them to a large council house, where they were placed on a
+dressed buffaloe skin by the side of the grand chief. The hall or
+council-room was in the shape of three quarters of a circle, covered at
+the top and sides with skins well dressed and sewed together. Under this
+shelter sat about seventy men, forming a circle round the chief, before
+whom were placed a Spanish flag and the one we had given them yesterday.
+This left a vacant circle of about six feet diameter, in which the pipe
+of peace was raised on two forked sticks, about six or eight inches from
+the ground, and under it the down of the swan was scattered: a large
+fire, in which they were cooking provisions, stood near, and in the
+centre about four hundred pounds of excellent buffaloe meat as a present
+for us. As soon as we were seated, an old man got up, and after
+approving what we had done, begged us to take pity on their unfortunate
+situation. To this we replied with assurances of protection. After he
+had ceased, the great chief rose and delivered an harangue to the same
+effect: then with great solemnity he took some of the most delicate
+parts of the dog, which was cooked for the festival, and held it to the
+flag by way of sacrifice: this done, he held up the pipe of peace, and
+first pointed it towards the heavens, then to the four quarters of the
+globe, and then to the earth, made a short speech, lighted the pipe, and
+presented it to us. We smoked, and he again harangued his people, after
+which the repast was served up to us. It consisted of the dog which they
+had just been cooking, this being a great dish among the Sioux and used
+on all festivals; to this were added, pemitigon, a dish made of buffaloe
+meat, dried or jerked, and then pounded and mixed raw with grease and a
+kind of ground potatoe, dressed like the preparation of Indian corn
+called hominy, to which it is little inferior. Of all these luxuries
+which were placed before us in platters with horn spoons, we took the
+pemitigon and the potatoe, which we found good, but we could as yet
+partake but sparingly of the dog. We eat and smoked for an hour, when it
+became dark: every thing was then cleared away for the dance, a large
+fire being made in the centre of the house, giving at once light and
+warmth to the ballroom. The orchestra was composed of about ten men, who
+played on a sort of tambourin, formed of skin stretched across a hoop;
+and made a jingling noise with a long stick to which the hoofs of deer
+and goats were hung; the third instrument was a small skin bag with
+pebbles in it: these, with five or six young men for the vocal part,
+made up the band. The women then came forward highly decorated; some
+with poles in their hands, on which were hung the scalps of their
+enemies; others with guns, spears or different trophies, taken in war by
+their husbands, brothers, or connexions. Having arranged themselves in
+two columns, one on each side of the fire, as soon as the music began
+they danced towards each other till they met in the centre, when the
+rattles were shaken, and they all shouted and returned back to their
+places. They have no step, but shuffle along the ground; nor does the
+music appear to be any thing more than a confusion of noises,
+distinguished only by hard or gentle blows upon the buffaloe skin: the
+song is perfectly extemporaneous. In the pauses of the dance, any man of
+the company comes forward and recites, in a sort of low guttural tone,
+some little story or incident, which is either martial or ludicrous; or,
+as was the case this evening, voluptuous and indecent; this is taken up
+by the orchestra and the dancers, who repeat it in a higher strain and
+dance to it. Sometimes they alternate; the orchestra first performing,
+and when it ceases, the women raise their voices and make a music more
+agreeable, that is, less intolerable than that of the musicians. The
+dances of the men, which are always separate from those of the women,
+are conducted very nearly in the same way, except that the men jump up
+and down instead of shuffling; and in the war dances the recitations are
+all of a military cast. The harmony of the entertainment had nearly been
+disturbed by one of the musicians, who thinking he had not received a
+due share of the tobacco we had distributed during the evening, put
+himself into a passion, broke one of the drums, threw two of them into
+the fire, and left the band. They were taken out of the fire: a buffaloe
+robe held in one hand and beaten with the other, by several of the
+company, supplied the place of the lost drum or tambourin, and no notice
+was taken of the offensive conduct of the man. We staid till twelve
+o'clock at night, when we informed the chiefs that they must be fatigued
+with all these attempts to amuse us, and retired accompanied by four
+chiefs, two of whom spent the night with us on board.
+
+While on shore we saw twenty-five squaws, and about the same number of
+children, who had been taken prisoners two weeks ago, in a battle with
+their countrymen the Mahas. In this engagement the Sioux destroyed forty
+lodges, killed seventy-five men, of which we saw many of the scalps, and
+took these prisoners; their appearance is wretched and dejected; the
+women too seem low in stature, coarse and ugly; though their present
+condition may diminish their beauty. We gave them a variety of small
+articles, such as awls and needles, and interceded for them with the
+chiefs, to whom we recommended to follow the advice of their great
+father, to restore the prisoners and live in peace with the Mahas, which
+they promised to do.
+
+The tribe which we this day saw, are a part of the great Sioux nation,
+and are known by the name of the Teton Okandandas: they are about two
+hundred men in number, and their chief residence is on both sides of the
+Missouri, between the Chayenne and Teton rivers. In their persons they
+are rather ugly and ill made, their legs and arms being too small, their
+cheekbones high, and their eyes projecting. The females, with the same
+character of form, are more handsome; and both sexes appear cheerful and
+sprightly; but in our intercourse with them we discovered that they were
+cunning and vicious.
+
+The men shave the hair off their heads, except a small tuft on the top,
+which they suffer to grow and wear in plaits over the shoulders; to this
+they seem much attached, as the loss of it is the usual sacrifice at the
+death of near relations. In full dress, the men of consideration wear a
+hawk's feather, or calumet feather worked with porcupine quills, and
+fastened to the top of the head, from which it falls back. The face and
+body are generally painted with a mixture of grease and coal. Over the
+shoulders is a loose robe or mantle of buffaloe skin dressed white,
+adorned with porcupine quills loosely fixed so as to make a gingling
+noise when in motion, and painted with various uncouth figures
+unintelligible to us, but to them emblematic of military exploits, or
+any other incident; the hair of the robe is worn next the skin in fair
+weather, but when it rains the hair is put outside, and the robe is
+either thrown over the arm, or wrapped round the body, all of which it
+may cover. Under this in the winter season they wear a kind of shirt
+resembling ours, and made either of skin or cloth, and covering the arms
+and body. Round the middle is fixed a girdle of cloth or procured
+dressed elk-skin, about an inch in width and closely tied to the body,
+to this is attached a piece of cloth or blanket or skin about a foot
+wide, which passes between the legs and is tucked under the girdle both
+before and behind; from the hip to the ancle he is covered by leggings
+of dressed antelope skins, with seams at the sides two inches in width,
+and ornamented by little tufts of hair the produce of the scalps they
+have made in war, which are scattered down the leg. The winter moccasins
+are of dressed buffaloe-skin, the hair being worn inwards, and soaled
+with thick elk-skin parchment: those for summer are of deer or elk-skin,
+dressed without the hair, and with soals of elk-skin. On great
+occasions, or wherever they are in full dress, the young men drag after
+them the entire skin of a polecat fixed to the heel of the moccasin.
+Another skin of the same animal is either tucked into the girdle or
+carried in the hand, and serves as a pouch for their tobacco, or what
+the French traders call the bois roule: this is the inner bark of a
+species of red willow, which being dried in the sun or over the fire, is
+rubbed between the hands and broken into small pieces, and is used alone
+or mixed with tobacco. The pipe is generally of red earth, the stem made
+of ash, about three or four feet long, and highly decorated with
+feathers, hair and porcupine quills.
+
+The hair of the women is suffered to grow long, and is parted from the
+forehead across the head, at the back of which it is either collected
+into a kind of bag, or hangs down over the shoulders. Their moccasins
+are like those of the men, as are also the leggings, which do not
+however reach beyond the knee, where it is met by a long loose shift of
+skin which reaches nearly to the ancles: this is fastened over the
+shoulders by a string and has no sleeves, but a few pieces of the skin
+hang a short distance down the arm. Sometimes a girdle fastens this skin
+round the waist, and over all is thrown a robe like that worn by the
+men. They seem fond of dress. Their lodges are very neatly constructed,
+in the same form as those of the Yanktons; they consist of about one
+hundred cabins, made of white buffaloe hide dressed, with a larger one
+in the centre for holding councils and dances. They are built round with
+poles about fifteen or twenty feet high, covered with white skins; these
+lodges may be taken to pieces, packed up, and carried with the nation
+wherever they go, by dogs which bear great burdens. The women are
+chiefly employed in dressing buffaloe skins: they seem perfectly well
+disposed, but are addicted to stealing any thing which they can take
+without being observed. This nation, although it makes so many ravages
+among its neighbours, is badly supplied with guns. The water which they
+carry with them is contained chiefly in the paunches of deer and other
+animals, and they make use of wooden bowls. Some had their heads shaved,
+which we found was a species of mourning for relations. Another usage,
+on these occasions, is to run arrows through the flesh both above and
+below the elbow.
+
+While on shore to-day we witnessed a quarrel between two squaws, which
+appeared to be growing every moment more boisterous, when a man came
+forward, at whose approach every one seemed terrified and ran. He took
+the squaws, and without any ceremony whipped them severely; on inquiring
+into the nature of such summary justice, we learnt that this man was an
+officer well known to this and many other tribes. His duty is to keep
+the peace, and the whole interior police of the village is confided to
+two or three of these officers, who are named by the chief and remain in
+power some days, at least till the chief appoints a successor; they seem
+to be a sort of constable or sentinel, since they are always on the
+watch to keep tranquillity during the day, and guarding the camp in the
+night. The short duration of their office is compensated by its
+authority: his power is supreme, and in the suppression of any riot or
+disturbance no resistance to him is suffered: his person is sacred, and
+if in the execution of his duty he strikes even a chief of the second
+class, he cannot be punished for this salutary insolence. In general
+they accompany the person of the chief, and when ordered to any duty,
+however dangerous, it is a point of honour rather to die than to refuse
+obedience. Thus, when they attempted to stop us yesterday, the chief
+ordered one of these men to take possession of the boat: he immediately
+put his arms round the mast, and, as we understood, no force except the
+command of the chief would have induced him to release his hold. Like
+the other men their bodies are blackened, but their distinguishing mark
+is a collection of two or three raven skins fixed to the girdle behind
+the back in such a way, that the tails stick out horizontally from the
+body. On his head too is a raven skin split into two parts, and tied so
+as to let the beak project from the forehead.
+
+Thursday September 27. We rose early, and the two chiefs took off, as a
+matter of course and according to their custom, the blanket on which
+they had slept. To this we added a peck of corn as a present to each.
+Captain Lewis and the chiefs went on shore to see a part of the nation
+that was expected, but did not come. He returned at two o'clock, with
+four of the chiefs and a warrior of distinction, called Wadrapa, (or on
+his guard); they examined the boat and admired whatever was strange,
+during half an hour, when they left it with great reluctance. Captain
+Clarke accompanied them to the lodge of the grand chief, who invited
+them to a dance, where, being joined by captain Lewis, they remained
+till a late hour. The dance was very similar to that of yesterday. About
+twelve we left them, taking the second chief and one principal warrior
+on board: as we came near the boat the man who steered the periogue, by
+mistake, brought her broadside against the boat's cable, and broke it.
+We called up all hands to their oars; but our noise alarmed the two
+Indians: they called out to their companions, and immediately the whole
+camp crowded to the shore; but after half an hour they returned, leaving
+about sixty men near us. The alarm given by the chiefs was said to be
+that the Mahas had attacked us, and that they were desirous of assisting
+us to repel it; but we suspected that they were afraid we meant to set
+sail, and intended to prevent us from doing so; for in the night the
+Maha prisoners had told one of our men, who understood the language,
+that we were to be stopped. We therefore, without giving any indication
+of our suspicion, prepared every thing for an attack, as the loss of our
+anchor obliged to come to near a falling bank, very unfavourable for
+defence. We were not mistaken in these opinions; for when in the
+morning,
+
+Friday, September 28, after dragging unsuccessfully for the anchor, we
+wished to set sail, it was with great difficulty that we could make the
+chiefs leave the boat. At length we got rid of all except the great
+chief; when just as we were setting out, several of the chief's soldiers
+sat on the rope which held the boat to the shore. Irritated at this we
+got every thing ready to fire on them if they persisted, but the great
+chief said that these were his soldiers and only wanted some tobacco. We
+had already refused a flag and some tobacco to the second chief, who had
+demanded it with great importunity; but willing to leave them without
+going to extremities, we threw him a carrot of tobacco, saying to him,
+"You have told us that you were a great man, and have influence; now
+show your influence, by taking the rope from those men, and we will then
+go without any further trouble." This appeal to his pride had the
+desired effect; he went out of the boat, gave the soldiers the tobacco,
+and pulling the rope out of their hands delivered it on board, and we
+then set sail under a breeze from the S.E. After sailing about two miles
+we observed the third chief beckoning to us: we took him on board, and
+he informed us that the rope had been held by the order of the second
+chief, who was a double-faced man. A little farther on we were joined by
+the son of the chief, who came on board to see his father. On his return
+we sent a speech to the nation, explaining what we had done, and
+advising them to peace; but if they persisted in their attempts to stop
+us, we were willing and able to defend ourselves. After making six
+miles, during which we passed a willow island on the south and one
+sandbar, we encamped on another in the middle of the river. The country
+on the south-side was a low prairie, that on the north highland.
+
+September 29. We set out early, but were again impeded by sandbars,
+which made the river shallow; the weather was however fair; the land on
+the north side low and covered with timber contrasted with the bluffs to
+the south. At nine o'clock we saw the second chief and two women and
+three men on shore, who wished us to take two women offered by the
+second chief to make friends, which was refused; he then requested us to
+take them to the other band of their nation, who were on the river not
+far from us: this we declined; but in spite of our wishes they followed
+us along shore. The chief asked us to give them some tobacco; this we
+did, and gave more as a present for that part of the nation which we did
+not see. At seven and a half miles we came to a small creek on the
+southern side, where we saw great numbers of elk, and which we called
+Notimber creek from its bare appearance. Above the mouth of this stream,
+a Ricara band of Pawnees had a village five years ago: but there are no
+remains of it except the mound which encircled the town. Here the second
+chief went on shore. We then proceeded, and at the distance of eleven
+miles encamped on the lower part of a willow island, in the middle of
+the river, being obliged to substitute large stones in the place of the
+anchor which we lost.
+
+September 30. The wind was this morning very high from the southeast, so
+that we were obliged to proceed under a double-reefed mainsail, through
+the rain. The country presented a large low prairie covered with timber
+on the north side; on the south, we first had high barren hills, but
+after some miles it became of the same character as that on the opposite
+side. We had not gone far when an Indian ran after us, and begged to be
+carried on board as far as the Ricaras, which we refused: soon after, we
+discovered on the hills at a distance, a great number of Indians, who
+came towards the river and encamped ahead of us. We stopped at a
+sandbar, at about eleven miles, and after breakfasting proceeded on a
+short distance to their camp, which consisted of about four hundred
+souls. We anchored one hundred yards from the shore, and discovering
+that they were Tetons belonging to the band which we had just left: we
+told them that we took them by the hand, and would make each chief a
+present of tobacco; that we had been badly treated by some of their
+band, and that having waited for them two days below, we could not stop
+here, but referred them to Mr. Durion for our talk and an explanation of
+our views: they then apologized for what had past, assured us that they
+were friendly, and very desirous that we should land and eat with them:
+this we refused, but sent the periogue on shore with the tobacco, which
+was delivered to one of the soldiers of the chief, whom we had on board.
+Several of them now ran along the shore after us, but the chief threw
+them a twist of tobacco, and told them to go back and open their ears to
+our counsels; on which they immediately returned to their lodges. We
+then proceeded past a continuation of the low prairie on the north,
+where we had large quantities of grapes, and on the south saw a small
+creek and an island. Six miles above this, two Indians came to the bank,
+looked at us about half an hour, and then went without speaking over the
+hills to the southwest. After some time, the wind rose still higher, and
+the boat struck a log, turned, and was very near taking in water. The
+chief became so much terrified at the danger, that he hid himself in the
+boat, and as soon as we landed got his gun and told us that he wanted to
+return, that we would now see no more Tetons, and that we might proceed
+unmolested: we repeated the advice we had already given, presented him
+with a blanket, a knife, some tobacco, and after smoking with him he set
+out. We then continued to a sandbar on the north side, where we
+encamped, having come twenty and a half miles. In the course of the day
+we saw a number of sandbars which impede the navigation. The only
+animal which we observed was the white gull, then in great abundance.
+
+October 1st, 1804. The weather was very cold and the wind high from the
+southeast during the night, and continued so this morning. At three
+miles distance, we had passed a large island in the middle of the river,
+opposite to the lower end of which the Ricaras once had a village on the
+south side of the river: there are, however, no remnants of it now,
+except a circular wall three or four feet in height, which encompassed
+the town. Two miles beyond this island is a river coming in from the
+southwest, about four hundred yards wide; the current gentle, and
+discharging not much water, and very little sand: it takes its rise in
+the second range of the Cote Noire or Black mountains, and its general
+course is nearly east; this river has been occasionally called Dog
+river, under a mistaken opinion that its French name was Chien, but its
+true appellation is Chayenne, and it derives this title from the
+Chayenne Indians: their history is the short and melancholy relation of
+the calamities of almost all the Indians. They were a numerous people
+and lived on the Chayenne, a branch of the Red river of Lake Winnipeg.
+The invasion of the Sioux drove them westward; in their progress they
+halted on the southern side of the Missouri below the Warreconne, where
+their ancient fortifications still exist; but the same impulse again
+drove them to the heads of the Chayenne, where they now rove, and
+occasionally visit the Ricaras. They are now reduced, but still number
+three hundred men.
+
+Although the river did not seem to throw out much sand, yet near and
+above its mouth we find a great many sandbars difficult to pass. On both
+sides of the Missouri, near the Chayenne, are rich thinly timbered
+lowlands, behind which are bare hills. As we proceeded, we found that
+the sandbars made the river so shallow, and the wind was so high, that
+we could scarcely find the channel, and at one place were forced to drag
+the boat over a sandbar, the Missouri being very wide and falling a
+little. At seven and a half miles we came to at a point, and remained
+three hours, during which time the wind abated: we then passed within
+four miles two creeks on the south, one of which we called Centinel
+creek, and the other Lookout creek. This part of the river has but
+little timber; the hills are not so high as we have hitherto seen, and
+the number of sandbars extends the river to more than a mile in breadth.
+We continued about four and a half miles further, to a sandbar in the
+middle of the river, where we spent the night, our progress being
+sixteen miles. On the opposite shore, we saw a house among the willows
+and a boy to whom we called, and brought him on board. He proved to be a
+young Frenchman in the employ of a Mr. Valle a trader, who is now here
+pursuing his commerce with the Sioux.
+
+Tuesday, October 2. There had been a violent wind from S.E. during the
+night, which having moderated we set sail with Mr. Valle, who visited us
+this morning and accompanied us for two miles. He is one of three French
+traders who have halted here, expecting the Sioux who are coming down
+from the Ricaras, where they now are, for the purposes of traffic. Mr.
+Valle tells us that he passed the last winter three hundred leagues up
+the Chayenne under the Black mountains. That river he represents as very
+rapid, liable to sudden swells, the bed and shores formed of course
+gravel, and difficult of ascent even for canoes. One hundred leagues
+from its mouth it divides into two branches, one coming from the south,
+the other at forty leagues from the junction enters the Black mountains.
+The land which it waters from the Missouri to the Black mountains,
+resembles the country on the Missouri, except that the former has even
+less timber, and of that the greater proportion is cedar. The Chayennes
+reside chiefly on the heads of the river, and steal horses from the
+Spanish settlement, a plundering excursion which they perform in a
+month's time. The Black mountains he observes are very high, covered
+with great quantities of pine, and in some parts the snow remains during
+the summer. There are also great quantities of goats, white bear,
+prairie cocks, and a species of animal which from his description must
+resemble a small elk, with large circular horns.
+
+At two and a half miles we had passed a willow island on the south, on
+the north side of the river were dark bluffs, and on the south low rich
+prairies. We took a meridian altitude on our arrival at the upper end of
+the isthmus of the bend, which we called the Lookout bend, and found the
+latitude to be 44 degrees 19' 36". This bend is nearly twenty miles
+round, and not more than two miles across.
+
+In the afternoon we heard a shot fired, and not long after observed some
+Indians on a hill: one of them came to the shore and wished us to land,
+as there were twenty lodges of Yanktons or Boisbrule there; we declined
+doing so, telling him that we had already seen his chiefs, and that they
+might learn from Mr. Durion the nature of the talk we had delivered to
+them. At nine miles we came to the lower point of a long island on the
+north, the banks of the south side of the river being high, those of the
+north forming a low rich prairie. We coasted along this island, which we
+called Caution island, and after passing a small creek on the south
+encamped on a sandbar in the middle of the river, having made twelve
+miles. The wind changed to the northwest, and became very high and cold.
+The current of the river is less rapid, and the water though of the same
+colour contains less sediment than below the Chayenne, but its width
+continues the same. We were not able to hunt to-day; for as there are so
+many Indians in the neighbourhood, we were in constant expectation of
+being attacked, and were therefore forced to keep the party together and
+be on our guard.
+
+Wednesday, October 3. The wind continued so high from the northwest,
+that we could not set out till after seven: we then proceeded till
+twelve o'clock, and landed on a bar towards the south, where we
+examined the periogues, and the forecastle of the boat, and found that
+the mice had cut several bags of corn, and spoiled some of our clothes:
+about one o'clock an Indian came running to the shore with a turkey on
+his back: several others soon joined him, but we had no intercourse with
+them. We then went on for three miles, but the ascent soon became so
+obstructed by sandbars and shoal water, that after attempting in vain
+several channels, we determined to rest for the night under some high
+bluffs on the south, and send out to examine the best channel. We had
+made eight miles along high bluffs on each side. The birds we saw were
+the white gulls and the brant which were flying to the southward in
+large flocks.
+
+Thursday, 4th. On examination we found that there was no outlet
+practicable for us in this channel, and that we must retread our steps.
+We therefore returned three miles, and attempted another channel in
+which we were more fortunate. The Indians were in small numbers on the
+shore, and seemed willing had they been more numerous to molest us. They
+called to desire that we would land, and one of them gave three yells
+and fired a ball ahead of the boat: we however took no notice of it, but
+landed on the south to breakfast. One of these Indians swam across and
+begged for some powder, we gave him a piece of tobacco only. At eight
+and a half miles we had passed an island in the middle of the river,
+which we called Goodhope island. At one and a half mile we reached a
+creek on the south side about twelve yards wide, to which we gave the
+name of Teal creek. A little above this is an island on the north side
+of the current, about one and a half mile in length and three quarters
+of a mile in breadth. In the centre of this island is an old village of
+the Ricaras, called Lahoocat; it was surrounded by a circular wall,
+containing seventeen lodges. The Ricaras are known to have lived therein
+1797, and the village seems to have been deserted about five years
+since; it does not contain much timber. We encamped on a sandbar making
+out from the upper end of this island; our journey to-day being twelve
+miles.
+
+Friday, October 5. The weather was very cold: yesterday evening and this
+morning there was a white frost. We sailed along the highlands on the
+north side, passing a small creek on the south, between three and four
+miles. At seven o'clock we heard some yells and saw three Indians of the
+Teton band, who asked us to come on shore and begged for some tobacco,
+to all which we gave the same answer as hitherto. At eight miles we
+reached a small creek on the north. At fourteen we passed an island on
+the south, covered with wild rye, and at the head a large creek comes in
+from the south, which we named Whitebrant creek, from seeing several
+white brants among flocks of dark-coloured ones. At the distance of
+twenty miles we came to on a sandbar towards the north side of the
+river, with a willow island opposite; the hills or bluffs come to the
+banks of the river on both sides, but are not so high as they are below:
+the river itself however continues of the same width, and the sandbars
+are quite as numerous. The soil of the banks is dark coloured, and many
+of the bluffs have the appearance of being on fire. Our game this day
+was a deer, a prairie wolf, and some goats out of a flock that was
+swimming across the river.
+
+Saturday, October 6. The morning was still cold, the wind being from the
+north. At eight miles we came to a willow island on the north, opposite
+a point of timber, where there are many large stones near the middle of
+the river, which seem to have been washed from the hills and high plains
+on both sides, or driven from a distance down the stream. At twelve
+miles we halted for dinner at a village which we suppose to have
+belonged to the Ricaras; it is situated in a low plain on the river, and
+consists of about eighty lodges, of an octagon form, neatly covered with
+earth, placed as close to each other as possible, and picketed round.
+The skin canoes, mats, buckets, and articles of furniture found in the
+lodges, induce us to suppose that it had been left in the spring. We
+found three different sorts of squashes growing in the village; we also
+killed an elk near it, and saw two wolves. On leaving the village the
+river became shallow, and after searching a long time for the main
+channel, which was concealed among sandbars, we at last dragged the boat
+over one of them rather than go back three miles for the deepest
+channel. At fourteen and a half miles we stopped for the night on a
+sandbar, opposite a creek on the north, called Otter creek, twenty-two
+yards in width, and containing more water than is common for creeks of
+that size. The sides of the river during the day are variegated with
+high bluffs and low timbered grounds on the banks: the river is very
+much obstructed by sandbars. We saw geese, swan, brants and ducks of
+different kinds on the sandbars, and on shore numbers of the prairie
+hen; the magpie too is very common, but the gulls and plover, which we
+saw in such numbers below, are now quite rare.
+
+Sunday, October 7. There was frost again last evening, and this morning
+was cloudy and attended with rain. At two miles we came to the mouth of
+a river; called by the Ricaras, Sawawkawna, or Pork river; the party who
+examined it for about three miles up, say that its current is gentle,
+and that it does not seem to throw out much sand. Its sources are in the
+first range of the Black mountains, and though it has now only water of
+twenty yards width, yet when full it occupies ninety. Just below the
+mouth is another village or wintering camp of the Ricaras, composed of
+about sixty lodges, built in the same form as those passed yesterday,
+with willow and straw mats, baskets and buffaloe-skin canoes remaining
+entire in the camp. We proceeded under a gentle breeze from the
+southwest: at ten o'clock we saw two Indians on the north side, who told
+us they were a part of the lodge of Tartongawaka, or Buffaloe Medicine,
+the Teton chief whom we had seen on the twenty-fifth, that they were on
+the way to the Ricaras, and begged us for something to eat, which we of
+course gave them. At seven and a half miles is a willow island on the
+north, and another on the same side five miles beyond it, in the middle
+of the river between highlands on both sides. At eighteen and a half
+miles is an island called Grouse island, on which are the walls of an
+old village; the island has no timber, but is covered with grass and
+wild rye, and owes its name to the number of grouse that frequent it. We
+then went on till our journey for the day was twenty-two miles: the
+country presented the same appearance as usual. In the low timbered
+ground near the mouth of the Sawawkawna, we saw the tracks of large
+white bear, and on Grouse island killed a female blaireau, and a deer of
+the black-tailed species, the largest we have ever seen.
+
+Monday, October 8. We proceeded early with a cool northwest wind, and at
+two and a half miles above Grouse island, reached the mouth of a creek
+on the south, then a small willow island, which divides the current
+equally; and at four and a half miles came to a river on the southern
+side where we halted. This river, which our meridian altitude fixes at
+45 degrees 39' 5" north latitude, is called by the Ricaras Wetawhoo; it
+rises in the Black mountains, and its bed which flows at the mouth over
+a low soft slate stone, is one hundred and twenty yards wide, but the
+water is now confined within twenty yards, and is not very rapid,
+discharging mud with a small proportion of sand: here as in every bend
+of the river, we again observe the red berries resembling currants,
+which we mentioned before. Two miles above the Wetawhoo, and on the same
+side, is a small river called Maropa by the Indians; it is twenty yards
+in width, but so dammed up by mud that the stream creeps through a
+channel of not more than an inch in diameter, and discharges no sand.
+One mile further we reached an island close to the southern shore, from
+which it is separated by a deep channel of sixty yards. About half way a
+number of Ricara Indians came out to see us. We stopped and took a
+Frenchman on board, who accompanied us past the island to our camp on
+the north side of the river, which is at the distance of twelve miles
+from that of yesterday. Captain Lewis then returned with four of the
+party to see the village; it is situated in the centre of the island,
+near the southern shore, under the foot of some high, bald, uneven
+hills, and contains about sixty lodges. The island itself is three miles
+long, and covered with fields in which the Indians raise corn, beans,
+and potatoes. Several Frenchmen living among these Indians as
+interpreters, or traders, came back with captain Lewis, and particularly
+a Mr. Gravelines, a man who has acquired the language. On setting out we
+had a low prairie covered with timber on the north, and on the south
+highlands, but at the mouth of the Wetawhoo the southern country
+changes, and a low timbered plain extends along the south, while the
+north has a ridge of barren hills during the rest of the day's course.
+
+Tuesday, 9th. The wind was so cold and high last night and during all
+the day, that we could not assemble the Indians in council; but some of
+the party went to the village. We received the visits of the three
+principal chiefs with many others, to whom we gave some tobacco, and
+told them that we would speak to them to-morrow. The names of these
+chiefs were first, Kakawissassa or Lighting Crow; second chief Pocasse
+or Hay; third chief Piaheto or Eagle's Feather. Notwithstanding the high
+waves, two or three squaws rowed to us in little canoes made of a single
+buffaloe skin, stretched over a frame of boughs interwoven like a
+basket, and with the most perfect composure. The object which appeared
+to astonish the Indians most, was captain Clark's servant York, a
+remarkable stout strong negro. They had never seen a being of that
+colour, and therefore flocked round him to examine the extraordinary
+monster. By way of amusement he told them that he had once been a wild
+animal, and caught and tamed by his master, and to convince them, showed
+them feats of strength which added to his looks made him more terrible
+than we wished him to be. Opposite our camp is a small creek on the
+south, which we distinguished by the name of the chief Kakawissassa.
+
+Wednesday, 10th. The weather was this day fine, and as we were desirous
+of assembling the whole nation at once, we despatched Mr. Gravelines,
+who with Mr. Tabeau another French trader had breakfeasted with us, to
+invite the chiefs of the two upper villages to a conference. They all
+assembled at one o'clock, and after the usual ceremonies we addressed
+them in the same way in which we had already spoken to the Ottoes and
+Sioux: we then made or acknowledged three chiefs, one for each of the
+three villages; giving to each a flag, a medal, a red coat, a cocked hat
+and feather, also some goods, paint and tobacco, which they divided
+among themselves: after this the airgun was exhibited, very much to
+their astonishment, nor were they less surprised at the colour and
+manner of York. On our side we were equally gratified at discovering
+that these Ricaras made use of no spirituous liquors of any kind, the
+example of the traders who bring it to them so far from tempting having
+in fact disgusted them. Supposing that it was as agreeable to them as to
+the other Indians, we had at first offered them whiskey; but they
+refused it with this sensible remark, that they were surprised that
+their father should present to them a liquor which would make them
+fools. On another occasion they observed to Mr. Tabeau, that no man
+could be their friend who tried to lead them into such follies. The
+council being over they retired to consult on their answer, and the next
+morning,
+
+Thursday, 11th, at eleven o'clock we again met in council at our camp.
+The grand chief made a short speech of thanks for the advice we had
+given, and promised to follow it; adding that the door was now open and
+no one dare shut it, and that we might depart whenever we pleased,
+alluding to the treatment we had received from the Sioux: they also
+brought us some corn, beans, and dried squashes, and in return we gave
+them a steel mill with which they were much pleased. At one o'clock we
+left our camp with the grand chief and his nephew on board, and at about
+two miles anchored below a creek on the south, separating the second and
+third village of the Ricaras, which are about half a mile distant from
+each other. We visited both the villages, and sat conversing with the
+chiefs for some time, during which they presented us with a bread made
+of corn and beans, also corn and beans boiled, and a large rich bean
+which they take from the mice of the prairie, who discover and collect
+it. These two villages are placed near each other in a high smooth
+prairie; a fine situation, except that having no wood the inhabitants
+are obliged to go for it across the river to a timbered lowland opposite
+to them. We told them that we would speak to them in the morning at
+their villages separately.
+
+Thursday, 12th. Accordingly after breakfast we went on shore to the
+house of the chief of the second village named Lassel, where we found
+his chiefs and warriors. They made us a present of about seven bushels
+of corn, a pair of leggings, a twist of their tobacco, and the seeds of
+two different species of tobacco. The chief then delivered a speech
+expressive of his gratitude for the presents and the good counsels which
+we had given him; his intention of visiting his great father but for
+fear of the Sioux; and requested us to take one of the Ricara chiefs up
+to the Mandans and negociate a peace between the two nations. To this we
+replied in a suitable way, and then repaired to the third village. Here
+we were addressed by the chief in nearly the same terms as before, and
+entertained with a present of ten bushels of corn, some beans, dried
+pumpkins, and squashes. After we had answered and explained the
+magnitude and power of the United States, the three chiefs came with us
+to the boat. We gave them some sugar, a little salt, and a sunglass. Two
+of them then left us, and the chief of the third, by name Ahketahnasha
+or Chief of the Town, accompanied us to the Mandans. At two o'clock we
+left the Indians, who crowded to the shore to take leave of us, and
+after making seven and a half miles landed on the north side, and had a
+clear, cool, pleasant evening.
+
+The three villages which we have just left, are the residence of a
+nation called the Ricaras. They were originally colonies of Pawnees, who
+established themselves on the Missouri, below the Chayenne, where the
+traders still remember that twenty years ago they occupied a number of
+villages. From that situation a part of the Ricaras emigrated to the
+neighbourhood of the Mandans, with whom they were then in alliance. The
+rest of the nation continued near the Chayenne till the year 1797, in
+the course of which, distressed by their wars with the Sioux, they
+joined their countrymen near the Mandans. Soon after a new war arose
+between the Ricaras and the Mandans, in consequence of which the former
+came down the river to their present position. In this migration those
+who had first gone to the Mandans kept together, and now live in the two
+lower villages, which may thence be considered as the Ricaras proper.
+The third village was composed of such remnants of the villages as had
+survived the wars, and as these were nine in number a difference of
+pronunciation and some difference of language may be observed between
+them and the Ricaras proper, who do not understand all the words of
+these wanderers. The villages are within the distance of four miles of
+each other, the two lower ones consisting of between one hundred and
+fifty and two hundred men each, the third of three hundred. The Ricaras
+are tall and well proportioned, the women handsome and lively, and as
+among other savages to them falls all the drudgery of the field and the
+labours of procuring subsistence, except that of hunting: both sexes are
+poor, but kind and generous, and although they receive with thankfulness
+what is given to them, do not beg as the Sioux did, though this praise
+should be qualified by mentioning that an axe was stolen last night
+from our cooks. The dress of the men is a simple pair of moccasins,
+legings, and a cloth round the middle, over which a buffaloe robe is
+occasionally thrown, with their hair, arms and ears decorated with
+different ornaments. The women wear moccasins, legings, a long shirt
+made of goats' skins, generally white and fringed, which is tied round
+the waist; to those they add, like the men, a buffaloe robe without the
+hair, in summer. These women are handsomer than the Sioux; both of them
+are however, disposed to be amorous, and our men found no difficulty in
+procuring companions for the night by means of the interpreters. These
+interviews were chiefly clandestine, and were of course to be kept a
+secret from the husband or relations. The point of honour indeed, is
+completely reversed among the Ricaras; that the wife or the sister
+should submit to a stranger's embraces without the consent of her
+husband or brother, is a cause of great disgrace and offence, especially
+as for many purposes of civility or gratitude the husband and brother
+will themselves present to a stranger these females, and be gratified by
+attentions to them. The Sioux had offered us squaws, but while we
+remained there having declined, they followed us with offers of females
+for two days. The Ricaras had been equally accommodating; we had equally
+withstood their temptation; but such was their desire to oblige that two
+very handsome young squaws were sent on board this evening, and
+persecuted us with civilities. The black man York participated largely
+in these favours; for instead of inspiring any prejudice, his colour
+seemed to procure him additional advantages from the Indians, who
+desired to preserve among them some memorial of this wonderful stranger.
+Among other instances of attention, a Ricara invited him into his house
+and presenting his wife to him, retired to the outside of the door:
+while there one of York's comrades who was looking for him came to the
+door, but the gallant husband would permit no interruption before a
+reasonable time had elapsed.
+
+The Ricara lodges are in a circular or octagonal form, and generally
+about thirty or forty feet in diameter: they are made by placing forked
+posts about six feet high round the circumference of the circle; these
+are joined by poles from one fork to another, which are supported also
+by other forked poles slanting from the ground: in the centre of the
+lodge are placed four higher forks, about fifteen feet in length,
+connected together by beams; from these to the lower poles the rafters
+of the roof are extended so as to leave a vacancy in the middle for the
+smoke: the frame of the building is then covered with willow branches,
+with which is interwoven grass, and over this mud or clay: the aperture
+for the door is about four feet wide, and before it is a sort of entry
+about ten feet from the lodge. They are very warm and compact.
+
+They cultivate maize or Indian corn, beans, pumpkins, watermelons,
+squashes, and a species of tobacco peculiar to themselves.
+
+Their commerce is chiefly with the traders who supply them with goods in
+return for peltries, which they procure not only by their own hunting,
+but in exchange for corn from their less civilized neighbours. The
+object chiefly in demand seemed to be red paint, but they would give any
+thing they had to spare for the most trifling article. One of the men
+to-day gave an Indian a hook made out of a pin, and he gave him in
+return a pair of moccasins.
+
+They express a disposition to keep at peace with all nations, but they
+are well armed with fusils, and being much under the influence of the
+Sioux, who exchanged the goods which they get from the British for
+Ricara corn, their minds are sometimes poisoned and they cannot be
+always depended on. At the present moment they are at war with the
+Mandans. We are informed by Mr. Gravelines, who had passed through that
+country, that the Yankton or Jacques river rises about forty miles to
+the east or northeast of this place, the Chayenne branch of the Red
+river about twenty miles further, passing the Sioux, and the St. Peter's
+about eighty.
+
+Saturday, 13th. In the morning our visitors left us, except the brother
+of the chief who accompanies us and one of the squaws. We passed at an
+early hour a camp of Sioux on the north bank, who merely looked at us
+without saying a word, and from the character of the tribe we did not
+solicit a conversation. At ten and a half miles we reached the mouth of
+a creek on the north, which takes its rise from some ponds a short
+distance to the northeast: to this stream we gave the name of Stoneidol
+creek, for after passing a willow and sand island just above its mouth,
+we discovered that a few miles back from the Missouri there are two
+stones resembling human figures, and a third like a dog; all which are
+objects of great veneration among the Ricaras. Their history would adorn
+the metamorphoses of Ovid. A young man was deeply enamoured with a girl
+whose parents refused their consent to the marriage. The youth went out
+into the fields to mourn his misfortunes; a sympathy of feeling led the
+lady to the same spot, and the faithful dog would not cease to follow
+his master. After wandering together and having nothing but grapes to
+subsist on, they were at last converted into stone, which beginning at
+the feet gradually invaded the nobler parts leaving nothing unchanged
+but a bunch of grapes which the female holds in her hands to this day.
+Whenever the Ricaras pass these sacred stones, they stop to make some
+offering of dress to propitiate these deities. Such is the account given
+by the Ricara chief which we had no mode of examining, except that we
+found one part of the story very agreeably confirmed; for on the river
+near where the event is said to have occurred, we found a greater
+abundance of fine grapes than we had yet seen. Above this is a small
+creek four and a half miles from Stoneidol creek, which is fifteen yards
+wide, comes in from the south, and received from us the name of Pocasse
+or Hay creek, in honour of the chief of the second village. Above the
+Ricara island, the Missouri becomes narrow and deeper, the sandbars
+being generally confined to the points; the current too is much more
+gentle; the timber on the lowlands is also in much greater quantities,
+though the high grounds are still naked. We proceeded on under a fine
+breeze from the southeast, and after making eighteen miles encamped on
+the north near a timbered low plain, after which we had some rain and
+the evening was cold. The hunters killed one deer only.
+
+Sunday, 14th. We set out in the rain which continued during the day. At
+five miles we came to a creek on the south, about fifteen yards wide,
+and named by us Piaheto or Eagle's Feather, in honour of the third chief
+of the Ricaras. After dinner we stopped on a sandbar, and executed the
+sentence of a court martial which inflicted corporal punishment on one
+of the soldiers. This operation affected the Indian chief very sensibly,
+for he cried aloud during the punishment: we explained the offence and
+the reasons of it. He acknowledged that examples were necessary, and
+that he himself had given them by punishing with death; but his nation
+never whipped even children from their birth. After this we continued
+with the wind from the northeast, and at the distance of twelve miles,
+encamped in a cove of the southern bank. Immediately opposite our camp
+on the north side are the ruins of an ancient fortification, the greater
+part of which is washed into the river: nor could we distinguish more
+than that the walls were eight or ten feet high. The evening is wet and
+disagreeable, and the river which is somewhat wider than yesterday,
+continues to have an unusual quantity of timber. The country was level
+on both sides in the morning, but afterwards we passed some black bluffs
+on the south.
+
+Monday, 15th. We stopped at three miles on the north a little above a
+camp of Ricaras who are hunting, where we were visited by about thirty
+Indians. They came over in their skin canoes, bringing us meat, for
+which we returned them beads and fishhooks. About a mile higher we found
+another encampment of Ricaras on the south, consisting of eight lodges:
+here we again ate and exchanged a few presents. As we went we discerned
+numbers of other Indians on both sides of the river; and at about nine
+miles we came to a creek on the south, where we saw many high hills
+resembling a house with a slanting roof; and a little below the creek an
+old village of the Sharha or Chayenne Indians. The morning had been
+cloudy, but the evening became pleasant, the wind from the northeast,
+and at sunset we halted, after coming ten miles over several sandbars
+and points, above a camp of ten Ricara lodges on the north side. We
+visited their camp, and smoked and eat with several of them; they all
+appeared kind and pleased with our attentions, and the fair sex received
+our men with more than hospitality. York was here again an object of
+astonishment; the children would follow him constantly, and if he
+chanced to turn towards them, run with great terror. The country of
+to-day is generally low and covered with timber on both sides, though in
+the morning we passed some barren hills on the south.
+
+Tuesday, 16th. At this camp the squaw who accompanied the chief left us;
+two others were very anxious to go on with us. Just above our camp we
+passed a circular work or fort where the Sharha or Chayennes formerly
+lived: and a short distance beyond, a creek which we called Chayenne
+creek. At two miles is a willow island with a large sandbar on both
+sides above it, and a creek, both on the south, which we called Sohaweh,
+the Ricara name for girl; and two miles above a second creek, to which
+we gave the name of Chapawt, which means woman in the same language.
+Three miles further is an island situated in a bend to the north, about
+a mile and a half long, and covered with cottonwood. At the lower end of
+this island comes in a small creek from the north, called
+Keetooshsahawna or Place of Beaver. At the upper extremity of the island
+a river empties itself from the north: it is called Warreconne, or Elk
+Shed their Horns, and is about thirty-five yards wide: the island itself
+is named Carp island by Evans, a former traveller. As we proceeded there
+were great numbers of goats on the banks of the river, and we soon after
+saw large flocks of them in the water: they had been gradually driven
+into the river by the Indians who now lined the shore so as to prevent
+their escape, and were firing on them, while sometimes boys went into
+the river and killed them with sticks: they seemed to be very
+successful, for we counted fifty-eight which they had killed. We
+ourselves killed some, and then passing the lodges to which these
+Indians belonged, encamped at the distance of half a mile on the south,
+having made fourteen and a half miles. We were soon visited by numbers
+of these Ricaras, who crossed the river hallooing and singing: two of
+them then returned for some goats' flesh and buffaloe meat dried and
+fresh, with which they made a feast that lasted till late at night, and
+caused much music and merriment.
+
+Wednesday 17th. The weather was pleasant: we passed a low ground covered
+with small timber on the south, and barren hills on the north which come
+close to the river; the wind from the northwest then become so strong
+that we could not move after ten o'clock, until late in the afternoon,
+when we were forced to use the towline, and we therefore made only six
+miles. We all went out hunting and examining the country. The goats, of
+which we see large flocks coming to the north bank of the river, spend
+the summer, says Mr. Gravelines, in the plains east of the Missouri, and
+at the present season are returning to the Black mountains, where they
+subsist on leaves and shrubbery during the winter, and resume their
+migrations in the spring. We also saw buffaloe, elk, and deer, and a
+number of snakes; a beaver house too was seen, and we caught a
+whippoorwill of a small and uncommon kind: the leaves are fast falling;
+the river wider than usual and full of sandbars: and on the sides of the
+hills are large stones, and some rock of a brownish colour in the
+southern bend below us. Our latitude by observation was 46 degrees 23'
+57".
+
+Thursday 18. After three miles we reached the mouth of Le Boulet or
+Cannonball river: this stream rises in the Black mountains, and falls
+into the Missouri on the south; its channel is about one hundred and
+forty yards wide, though the water is now confined within forty, and its
+name is derived from the numbers of perfectly round large stones on the
+shore and in the bluffs just above. We here met with two Frenchmen in
+the employ of Mr. Gravelines, who had been robbed by the Mandans of
+their traps, furs, and other articles, and were descending the river in
+a periogue, but they turned back with us in expectation of obtaining
+redress through our means. At eight miles is a creek on the north, about
+twenty-eight yards wide, rising in the northeast, and called Chewah or
+Fish river; one mile above this is another creek on the south: we
+encamped on a sandbar to the south, at the distance of thirteen miles,
+all of which we had made with oars and poles. Great numbers of goats are
+crossing the river and directing their course to the westward; we also
+saw a herd of buffaloe and of elk; a pelican too was killed, and six
+fallow deer, having found, as the Ricaras informed us, that there are
+none of the black-tail species as high up as this place. The country is
+in general level and fine, with broken short high grounds, low timbered
+mounds on the river, and a rugged range of hills at a distance.
+
+Friday 19. We set sail with a fine morning, and a southeast wind, and at
+two and a half miles passed a creek on the north side: at eleven and a
+half miles we came to a lake or large pond on the same side, in which
+were some swans. On both banks of the Missouri are low grounds which
+have much more timber than lower down the river: the hills are at one or
+two miles distance from the banks, and the streams which rise in them
+are brackish, and the mineral salts appear on the sides of the hills
+and edges of the runs. In walking along the shore we counted fifty-two
+herds of buffaloe, and three of elk, at a single view. Besides these we
+also observed elk, deer, pelicans, and wolves. After seventeen and a
+half miles we encamped on the north, opposite to the uppermost of a
+number of round hills, forming a cone at the top, one being about
+ninety, another sixty feet in height, and some of less elevation. Our
+chief tells us that the calumet bird lives in the holes formed by the
+filtration of the water from the top of these hills through the sides.
+Near to one of these moles, on a point of a hill ninety feet above the
+plain, are the remains of an old village which is high, strong, and has
+been fortified; this our chief tells us is the remains of one of the
+Mandan villages, and are the first ruins which we have seen of that
+nation in ascending the Missouri: opposite to our camp is a deep bend to
+the south, at the extremity of which is a pond.
+
+Saturday 30. We proceeded early with a southeast wind, which continued
+high all day, and came to a creek on the north at two miles distance,
+twenty yards wide. At eight miles we reached the lower point of an
+island in the middle of the river, though there is no current on the
+south. This island is covered with willows and extends about two miles,
+there being a small creek coming in from the south at its lower
+extremity. After making twelve miles we encamped on the south, at the
+upper part of a bluff containing stone-coal of an inferior quality;
+immediately below this bluff and on the declivity of a hill, are the
+remains of a village covering six or eight acres, formerly occupied by
+the Mandans, who, says our Ricara chief, once lived in a number of
+villages on each side of the river, till the Sioux forced them forty
+miles higher; whence after a few years residence, they moved to their
+present position. The country through, which we passed has wider bottoms
+and more timber than those we have been accustomed to see, the hills
+rising at a distance and by gradual ascents. We have seen great numbers
+of elk, deer, goats, and buffaloe, and the usual attendants of these
+last, the wolves, who follow their movements and feed upon those who die
+by accident, or who are too poor to keep pace with the herd; we also
+wounded a white bear, and saw some fresh tracks of those animals which
+are twice as large as the track of a man.
+
+Sunday 21. Last night the weather was cold, the wind high from the
+northeast, and the rain which fell froze on the ground. At daylight it
+began to snow, and continued till the afternoon, when it remained cloudy
+and the ground was covered with snow. We however, set out early, and
+just above our camp came to a creek on the south, called Chisshetaw,
+about thirty yards wide and with a considerable quantity of water. Our
+Ricara chief tells us, that at some distance up this river is situated a
+large rock which is held in great veneration, and visited by parties who
+go to consult it as to their own or their nations' destinies, all of
+which they discern in some sort of figures or paintings with which it is
+covered. About two miles off from the mouth of the river the party on
+shore saw another of the objects of Ricara superstition: it is a large
+oak tree, standing alone in the open prairie, and as it alone has
+withstood the fire which has consumed every thing around, the Indians
+naturally ascribe to it extraordinary powers. One of their ceremonies is
+to make a hole in the skin of their necks through which a string is
+passed and the other end tied to the body of the tree; and after
+remaining in this way for some time they think they become braver. At
+two miles a from our encampment we came to the ruins of a second Mandan
+village, which was in existence at the same time with that just
+mentioned. It is situated on the north at the foot of a hill in a
+beautiful and extensive plain, which is now covered with herds of
+buffaloe: nearly opposite are remains of a third village on the south of
+the Missouri; and there is another also about two miles further on the
+north, a little off the river. At the distance of seven miles we
+encamped on the south, and spent a cold night. We procured to-day a
+buffaloe and an otter only. The river is wide and the sandbars numerous,
+and a low island near our encampment.
+
+Monday 22. In the morning we passed an old Mandan village on the south,
+near our camp; at four miles another on the same side. About seven
+o'clock we came to at a camp of eleven Sioux of the Teton tribe, who are
+almost perfectly naked, having only a piece of skin or cloth round the
+middle, though we are suffering from the cold. From their appearance,
+which is warlike, and from their giving two different accounts of
+themselves, we believe that they are either going to or returning from
+the Mandans, to which nations the Sioux frequently make excursions to
+steal horses. As their conduct displeased as, we gave them nothing. At
+six we reached an island about one mile in length, at the head of which
+is a Mandan village on the north in ruins, and two miles beyond a bad
+sandbar. At eight miles are remains of another Mandan village on the
+south; and at twelve miles encamped on the south. The hunters brought in
+a buffaloe bull, and mentioned that of about three hundred which they
+had seen, there was not a single female. The beaver is here in plenty,
+and the two Frenchmen who are returning with us catch several every
+night.
+
+These villages which are nine in number are scattered along each side of
+the river within a space of twenty miles; almost all that remains of
+them is the wall which surrounded them, the fallen heaps of earth which
+covered the houses, and occasionally human skulls and the teeth and
+bones of men, and different animals, which are scattered on the surface
+of the ground.
+
+Tuesday 23. The weather was cloudy and we had some snow; we soon arrived
+at five lodges where the two Frenchmen had been robbed, but the Indians
+had left it lately as we found the fires still burning. The country
+consists as usual of timbered low grounds, with grapes, rushes, and
+great quantities of a small red acid fruit, known among the Indians by
+a name signifying rabbitberries, and called by the French graisse de
+buffle or buffaloe fat. The river too, is obstructed by many sandbars.
+At twelve miles we passed an old village on the north, which was the
+former residence of the Ahnahaways who now live between the Mandans and
+Minnetarees. After making thirteen miles we encamped on the south.
+
+Wednesday 24. The day was again dark and it snowed a little in the
+morning. At three miles we came to a point on the south, where the river
+by forcing a channel across a former bend has formed a large island on
+the north. On this island we found one of the grand chiefs of the
+Mandans, who with five lodges was on a hunting excursion. He met his
+enemy the Ricara chief, with great ceremony and apparent cordiality, and
+smoked with him. After visiting his lodges, the grand chief and his
+brother came on board our boat for a short time; we then proceeded and
+encamped on the north, at seven miles from our last night's station and
+below the old village of the Mandans and Ricaras. Here four Mandans came
+down from a camp above, and our Ricara chief returned with them to their
+camp, from which we auger favourably of their pacific views towards each
+other. The land is low and beautiful, and covered with oak and
+cottonwood, but has been too recently hunted to afford much game.
+
+25th. The morning was cold and the wind gentle from the southeast: at
+three miles we passed a handsome high prairie on the south, and on an
+eminence about forty feet above the water and extending back for several
+miles in a beautiful plain, was situated an old village of the Mandan
+nation which has been deserted for many years. A short distance above
+it, on the continuation of the same rising ground are two old villages
+of Ricaras, one on the top of the hill, the other in the level plain,
+which have been deserted only five years ago. Above these villages is an
+extensive low ground for several miles, in which are situated, at three
+or four miles from the Ricara villages, three old villages of Mandans
+near together. Here the Mandans lived when the Ricaras came to them for
+protection, and from this they moved to their present situation above.
+In the low ground the squaws raised their corn, and the timber, of which
+there was little near the villages, was supplied from the opposite side
+of the river, where it was and still is abundant.
+
+As we proceeded several parties of Mandans both on foot and horseback
+came along the river to view us, and were very desirous that we should
+land and talk to them: this we could not do on account of the sandbreaks
+on the shore, but we sent our Ricara chief to them in a periogue. The
+wind too having shifted to the southwest and being very high it required
+all our precautions on board, for the river was full of sandbars which
+made it very difficult to find the channel. We got aground several
+times, and passed a very bad point of rocks, after which we encamped on
+a sandpoint to the north, above a handsome plain covered with timber,
+and opposite to a high hill on the south side at the distance of eleven
+miles. Here we were joined by our Ricara chief, who brought an Indian to
+the camp where he remained all night.
+
+26th. We set out early with a southwest wind, and after putting the
+Ricara chief on shore to join the Mandans who were in great numbers
+along it, we proceeded to the camp of the grand chiefs four miles
+distant. Here we met a Mr. M'Cracken one of the northwest or Hudson Bay
+company, who arrived with another person about nine days ago to trade
+for horses and buffaloe robes. Two of the chiefs came on board with some
+of their household furniture, such as earthern pots and a little corn
+and went on with us; the rest of the Indians following on shore. At one
+mile beyond the camp we passed a small creek, and at three more a bluff
+of coal of an inferior quality on the south. After making eleven miles
+we reached an old field where the Mandans had cultivated grain last
+summer, and encamped for the night on the south side, about half a mile
+below the first village of the Mandans. In the morning we had a willow
+low ground on the south and highland on the north, which occasionally
+varied in the course of the day. There is but little wood on this part
+of the river, which is here subdivided into many channels and obstructed
+by sandbars. As soon as we arrived a crowd of men, women, and children
+came down to see us. Captain Lewis returned with the principal chiefs to
+the village, while the others remained with us during the evening; the
+object which seemed to surprise them most, was a cornmill fixed to the
+boat which we had occasion to use, and delighted them by the ease with
+which it reduced the grain to powder. Among others who visited us was
+the son of the grand chief of the Mandans, who had his two little
+fingers cut off at the second joints. On inquiring into this accident,
+we found that it was customary to express grief for the death of
+relations by some corporeal suffering, and that the usual mode was to
+lose two joints of the little fingers, or sometimes the other fingers.
+The wind blew very cold in the evening from the southwest. Two of the
+party are affected with rheumatic complaints.
+
+
+
+
+                                CHAPTER V.
+
+     Council held with the Mandans--A prairie on fire, and a singular
+     instance of preservation--Peace established between the Mandans and
+     Ricaras--The party encamp for the winter--Indian mode of catching
+     goats--Beautiful appearance of northern lights--Friendly character
+     of the Indians--Some account of the Mandans--The Ahnahaways and the
+     Minnetarees--The party acquire the confidence of the Mandans by
+     taking part in their controversy with the Sioux--Religion of the
+     Mandans, and their singular conception of the term medicine--Their
+     tradition--The sufferings of the party from the severity of the
+     season--Indian game of billiards described--Character of the
+     Missouri, of the surrounding country, and of the rivers, creeks,
+     islands, &c.
+
+
+Saturday, October 27. At an early hour we proceeded and anchored off the
+village. Captain Clarke went on shore, and after smoking a pipe with the
+chiefs, was desired to remain and eat with them. He declined on account
+of his being unwell; but his refusal gave great offence to the Indians,
+who considered it disrespectful not to eat when invited, till the cause
+was explained to their satisfaction. We sent them some tobacco, and then
+proceeded to the second village on the north, passing by a bank
+containing coal, and a second village, and encamped at four miles on the
+north, opposite to a village of Ahnahaways. We here met with a
+Frenchman, named Jesseaume, who lives among the Indians with his wife
+and children, and who we take as an interpreter. The Indians had flocked
+to the bank to see us as we passed, and they visited in great numbers
+the camp, where some of them remained all night. We sent in the evening
+three young Indians with a present of tobacco for the chiefs of the
+three upper villages, inviting them to come down in the morning to a
+council with us. Accordingly the next day,
+
+Sunday, October 28, we were joined by many of the Minnetarees and
+Ahnahaways from above, but the wind was so violent from the southwest
+that the chiefs of the lower villages could not come up, and the
+council was deferred till to-morrow. In the mean while we entertained
+our visitors by showing them what was new to them in the boat; all
+which, as well our black servant, they called Great Medicine, the
+meaning of which we afterwards learnt. We also consulted the grand chief
+of the Mandans, Black Cat, and Mr. Jesseaume, as to the names,
+characters, &c. of the chiefs with whom we are to hold the council. In
+the course of the day we received several presents from the women,
+consisting of corn, boiled hominy, and garden stuffs: in our turn we
+gratified the wife of the great chief with a gift of a glazed earthen
+jar. Our hunter brought us two beaver. In the afternoon we sent the
+Minnetaree chiefs to smoke for us with the great chief of the Mandans,
+and told them we would speak in the morning.
+
+Finding that we shall be obliged to pass the winter at this place, we
+went up the river about one and a half miles to-day, with a view of
+finding a convenient spot for a fort, but the timber was too scarce and
+small for our purposes.
+
+Monday, October 29. The morning was fine and we prepared our presents
+and speech for the council. After breakfast we were visited by an old
+chief of the Ahnahaways, who finding himself growing old and weak had
+transferred his power to his son, who is now at war against the
+Shoshonees. At ten o'clock the chiefs were all assembled under an awning
+of our sails, stretched so as to exclude the wind which had become high;
+that the impression might be the more forcible, the men were all
+paraded, and the council opened by a discharge from the swivel of the
+boat. We then delivered a speech, which like those we had already made
+intermingled advice with assurances of friendship and trade: while we
+were speaking the old Ahnahaway chief grew very restless, and observed
+that he could not wait long as his camp was exposed to the hostilities
+of the Shoshonees; he was instantly rebuked with great dignity by one of
+the chiefs for this violation of decorum at such a moment, and remained
+quiet during the rest of the council. Towards the end of our speech we
+introduced the subject of our Ricara chief, with whom we recommended a
+firm peace: to this they seemed well disposed, and all smoked with him
+very amicably. We all mentioned the goods which had been taken from the
+Frenchmen, and expressed a wish that they should he restored. This being
+over, we proceeded to distribute the presents with great ceremony: one
+chief of each town was acknowledged by a gift of a flag, a medal with
+the likeness of the president of the United States, a uniform coat, hat
+and feather: to the second chiefs we gave a medal representing some
+domestic animals, and a loom for weaving; to the third chiefs medals
+with the impressions of a farmer sowing grain. A variety of other
+presents were distributed, but none seemed to give them more
+satisfaction than an iron corn mill which we gave to the Mandans.
+
+The chiefs who were made to-day are: Shahaka or Big White, a first
+chief, and Kagohami or Little Raven, a second chief of the lower village
+of the Mandans, called Matootonha: the other chiefs of an inferior
+quality who were recommended were, 1. Ohheenaw, or Big Man, a Chayenne
+taken prisoner by the Mandans who adopted him, and he now enjoys great
+consideration among the tribe. 2. Shotahawrora, or Coal, of the second
+Mandan village which is called Rooptahee. We made Poscopsahe, or Black
+Cat, the first chief of the village, and the grand chief of the whole
+Mandan nation: his second chief is Kagonomokshe, or Raven man Chief;
+inferior chiefs of this village were, Tawnuheo, and Bellahsara, of which
+we did not learn the translation.
+
+In the third village which is called Mahawha, and where the Arwacahwas
+reside, we made one first chief, Tetuckopinreha, or White Buffaloe robe
+unfolded, and recognized two of an inferior order: Minnissurraree, or
+Neighing Horse, and Locongotiha, or Old woman at a distance.
+
+Of the fourth village where the Minnetarees live, and which is called
+Metaharta, we made a first chief, Ompsehara, or Black Moccasin: a second
+chief, Ohhaw, or Little Fox. Other distinguished chiefs of this village
+were, Mahnotah, or Big Thief, a man whom we did not see as he is out
+fighting, and was killed soon after; and Mahserassa, or Tail of the
+Calumet Bird. In the fifth village we made a first chief Eapanopa, or
+Red Shield; a second chief Wankerassa, or Two Tailed Calumet Bird, both
+young chiefs; other persons of distinction are, Shahakohopinnee, or
+Little Wolf's Medicine; Ahrattanamoekshe, or Wolfman chief, who is now
+at war, and is the son of the old chief we have mentioned, whose name is
+Caltahcota, or Cherry on a Bush.
+
+The presents intended for the grand chief of the Minnetarees, who was
+not at the council, were sent to him by the old chief Caltahcota; and we
+delivered to a young chief those intended for the chief of the lower
+village. The council was concluded by a shot from our swivel, and after
+firing the airgun for their amusement, they retired to deliberate on the
+answer which they are to give to-morrow.
+
+In the evening the prairie took fire, either by accident or design, and
+burned with great fury, the whole plain being enveloped in flames: so
+rapid was its progress that a man and a woman were burnt to death before
+they could reach a place of safety; another man with his wife and child
+were much burnt, and several other persons narrowly escaped destruction.
+Among the rest a boy of the half white breed escaped unhurt in the midst
+of the flames; his safety was ascribed to the great medicine spirit, who
+had preserved him on account of his being white. But a much more natural
+cause was the presence of mind of his mother, who seeing no hopes of
+carrying off her son, threw him on the ground, and covering him with the
+fresh hide of a buffaloe, escaped herself from the flames; as soon as
+the fire had passed, she returned and found him untouched, the skin
+having prevented, the flame from reaching the grass on which he lay.
+
+Tuesday 30. We were this morning visited by two persons from the lower
+village, one the Big White the chief of the village, the other the
+Chayenne called the Big Man; they had been hunting, and did not return
+yesterday early enough to attend the council. At their request we
+repeated part of our speech of yesterday, and put the medal round the
+neck of the chief. Captain Clarke took a periogue and went up the river
+in search of a good wintering place, and returned after going seven
+miles to the lower point of an island on the north side, about one mile
+in length; he found the banks on the north side high, with coal
+occasionally, and the country fine on all sides; but the want of wood
+and the scarcity of game up the river, induced us to decide on fixing
+ourselves lower down during the winter. In the evening our men danced
+among themselves to the great amusement of the Indians.
+
+Wednesday 31. A second chief arrived this morning with an invitation
+from the grand chief of the Mandans, to come to his village where he
+wished to present some corn to us and to speak with us. Captain Clarke
+walked down to his village; he was first seated with great ceremony on a
+robe by the side of the chief, who then threw over his shoulders another
+robe handsomely ornamented. The pipe was then smoked with several of the
+old men who were seated around the chief; after some time he began his
+discourse, by observing that he believed what we had told him, and that
+they should soon enjoy peace, which would gratify him as well as his
+people, because they could then hunt without fear of being attacked, and
+the women might work in the fields without looking every moment for the
+enemy, and at night put off their moccasins, a phrase by which is
+conveyed the idea of security when the women could undress at night
+without fear of attack. As to the Ricaras, he continued, in order to
+show you that we wish peace with all men, that chief, pointing to his
+second chief, will go with some warriors back to the Ricaras with their
+chief now here and smoke with that nation. When we heard of your coming
+all the nations around returned from their hunting to see you, in hopes
+of receiving large presents; all are disappointed and some discontented;
+for his part he was not much so, though his village was. He added that
+he would go and see his great father the president. Two of the steel
+traps stolen from the Frenchmen were then laid before captain Clarke,
+and the women brought about twelve bushels of corn. After the chief had
+finished, captain Clarke made an answer to the speech and then returned
+to the boat, where he found the chief of the third village and Kagohami
+(the Little Raven) who smoked and talked about an hour. After they left
+the boat the grand chief of the Mandans came dressed in the clothes we
+had given him, with his two children, and begged to see the men dance,
+in which they willingly gratified him.
+
+Thursday, November 1st. Mr. M'Cracken, the trader whom we found here,
+set out to-day on his return to the British fort and factory on the
+Assiniboin river, about one hundred and fifty miles from this place. He
+took a letter from captain Lewis to the northwest company, inclosing a
+copy of the passport granted by the British minister in the United
+States. At ten o'clock the chiefs of the lower village arrived; they
+requested that we would call at their village for some corn, that they
+were willing to make peace with the Ricaras, that they had never
+provoked the war between them, but as the Ricaras had killed some of
+their chiefs, they had retaliated on them; that they had killed them
+like birds, till they were tired of killing them, so that they would
+send a chief and some warriors to smoke with them. In the evening we
+dropped down to the lower village where captain Lewis went on shore, and
+captain Clarke proceeded to a point of wood on the north side.
+
+Friday, November 2. He therefore went up to the village where eleven
+bushels of corn were presented to him. In the meantime Captain Clarke
+went down with the boats three miles, and having found a good position
+where there was plenty of timber, encamped and began to fell trees to
+build our huts. Our Ricara chief set out with one Mandan chief and
+several Minnetaree and Mandan warriors; the wind was from the southeast,
+and the weather being fine a crowd of Indians came down to visit us.
+
+Saturday 3. We now began the building of our cabins, and the Frenchmen
+who are to return to St. Louis are building a periogue for the purpose.
+We sent six men in a periogue to hunt down the river. We were also
+fortunate enough to engage in our service a Canadian Frenchmen, who had
+been with the Chayenne Indians on the Black mountains, and last summer
+descended thence by the Little Missouri. Mr. Jessaume our interpreter
+also came down with his squaw and children to live at our camp. In the
+evening we received a visit from Kagohami or Little Raven, whose wife
+accompanied him, bringing about sixty weight of dried meat, a robe and a
+pot of meal. We gave him in return a piece of tobacco, to his wife an
+axe and a few small articles, and both of them spent the night at our
+camp. Two beavers were caught in traps this morning.
+
+Sunday 4. We continued our labours: the timber which we employ is large
+and heavy, and chiefly consists of cottonwood and elm with some ash of
+an inferior size. Great numbers of the Indians pass our camp on their
+hunting excursions: the day was clear and pleasant, but last night was
+very cold and there was a white frost.
+
+Monday 5. The Indians are all out on their hunting parties: a camp of
+Mandans caught within two days one hundred goats a short distance below
+us: their mode of hunting them is to form a large strong pen or fold,
+from which a fence made of bushes gradually widens on each side: the
+animals are surrounded by the hunters and gently driven towards this
+pen, in which they imperceptibly find themselves inclosed and are then
+at the mercy of the hunters. The weather is cloudy and the wind moderate
+from the northwest. Late at night we were awaked by the sergeant on
+guard to see the beautiful phenomenon called the northern light: along
+the northern sky was a large space occupied by a light of a pale but
+brilliant white colour: which rising from the horizon extended itself to
+nearly twenty degrees above it. After glittering for some time its
+colours would be overcast, and almost obscured, but again it would burst
+out with renewed beauty; the uniform colour was pale light, but its
+shapes were various and fantastic: at times the sky was lined with light
+coloured streaks rising perpendicularly from the horizon, and gradually
+expanding into a body of light in which we could trace the floating
+columns sometimes advancing, sometimes retreating and shaping into
+infinite forms, the space in which they moved. It all faded away before
+the morning. At daylight,
+
+Tuesday 6, the clouds to the north were darkening and the wind rose high
+from the northwest at eight o'clock, and continued cold during the day.
+Mr. Gravelines and four others who came with us returned to the Ricaras
+in a small periogue, we gave him directions to accompany some of the
+Ricara chiefs to the seat of government in the spring.
+
+Wednesday 7. The day was temperate but cloudy and foggy, and we were
+enabled to go on with our work with much expedition.
+
+Thursday 8. The morning again cloudy; our huts advance very well, and we
+are visited by numbers of Indians who come to let their horses graze
+near us: in the day the horses are let loose in quest of grass, in the
+night they are collected and receive an armful of small boughs of the
+cottonwood, which being very juicy, soft and brittle, form nutritious
+and agreeable food: the frost this morning was very severe, the weather
+during the day cloudy and the wind from the northwest. We procured from
+an Indian a weasel perfectly white except the extremity of the tail
+which was black: great numbers of wild geese are passing to the south,
+but their flight is too high for us to procure any of them.
+
+November 10. We had again a raw day, a northwest wind, but rose early
+in hopes of finishing our works before the extreme cold begins. A chief
+who is a half Pawnee came to us and brought a present of half a
+buffaloe, in return for which we gave him some small presents and a few
+articles to his wife and son: he then crossed the river in a buffaloe
+skin canoe; his wife took the boat on her back and carried it to the
+village three miles off. Large flocks of geese and brant, and also a few
+ducks are passing towards the south.
+
+Sunday 11. The weather is cold. We received the visit of two squaws,
+prisoners from the Rock mountains, and purchased by Chaboneau. The
+Mandans at this time are out hunting the buffaloe.
+
+Monday 12. The last night had been cold and this morning we had a very
+hard frost: the wind changeable during the day, and some ice appears on
+the edges of the rivers; swans too are passing to the south. The Big
+White came down to us, having packed on the back of his squaw about one
+hundred pounds of very fine meat: for which we gave him as well as the
+squaw some presents, particularly an axe to the woman with which she was
+very much pleased.
+
+Tuesday 13. We this morning unloaded the boat and stowed away the
+contents in a storehouse which we have built. At half past ten ice began
+to float down the river for the first time: in the course of the morning
+we were visited by the Black Cat, Poscapsahe, who brought an Assiniboin
+chief and seven warriors to see us. This man, whose name is Chechawk, is
+a chief of one out of three bands of Assiniboins who wander over the
+plains between the Missouri and Assiniboin during the summer, and in the
+winter carry the spoils of their hunting to the traders on the
+Assiniboin river, and occasionally come to this place: the whole three
+bands consist of about eight hundred men. We gave him a twist of tobacco
+to smoke with his people, and a gold cord for himself: the Sioux also
+asked for whiskey which we refused to give them. It snowed all day and
+the air was very cold.
+
+Wednesday 14. The river rose last night half an inch, and is now filled
+with floating ice. This morning was cloudy with some snow: about seventy
+lodges of Assiniboins and some Knistenaux are at the Mandan village, and
+this being the day of adoption and exchange of property between them
+all, it is accompanied by a dance, which prevents our seeing more than
+two Indians to-day: these Knistenaux are a band of Chippeways whose
+language they speak; they live on the Assiniboin and Saskashawan rivers,
+and are about two hundred and forty men. We sent a man down on horseback
+to see what had become of our hunters, and as we apprehend a failure of
+provisions we have recourse to our pork this evening. Two Frenchmen who
+had been below returned with twenty beaver which they had caught in
+traps.
+
+Thursday 15. The morning again cloudy, and the ice running thicker than
+yesterday, the wind variable. The man came back with information that
+our hunters were about thirty miles below, and we immediately sent an
+order to them to make their way through the floating ice, to assist them
+in which we sent some tin for the bow of the periogue and a towrope. The
+ceremony of yesterday seem to continue still, for we were not visited by
+a single Indian. The swan are still passing to the south.
+
+Friday 16. We had a very hard white frost this morning, the trees are
+all covered with ice, and the weather cloudy. The men this day moved
+into the huts, although they are not finished. In the evening some
+horses were sent down to the woods near us in order to prevent their
+being stolen by the Assiniboins, with whom some difficulty is now
+apprehended. An Indian came down with four buffaloe robes and some corn,
+which he offered for a pistol, but was refused.
+
+Saturday, November 17. Last night was very cold, and the ice in the
+river to-day is thicker than hitherto. We are totally occupied with our
+huts, but received visits from several Indians.
+
+Sunday, November 18. To-day we had a cold windy morning; the Black Cat
+came to see us, and occupied us for a long time with questions on the
+usages of our country. He mentioned that a council had been held
+yesterday to deliberate on the state of their affairs. It seems that not
+long ago, a party of Sioux fell in with some horses belonging to the
+Minnetarees, and carried them off; but in their flight they were met by
+some Assiniboins, who killed the Sioux and kept the horses: a Frenchman
+too who had lived many years among the Mandans, was lately killed on his
+route to the British factory on the Assiniboin; some smaller differences
+existed between the two nations, all of which being discussed, the
+council decided that they would not resent the recent insults from the
+Assiniboins and Knistenaux, until they had seen whether we had deceived
+them or not in our promises of furnishing them with arms and ammunition.
+They had been disappointed in their hopes of receiving them from Mr.
+Evans and were afraid that we too, like him, might tell them what was
+not true. We advised them to continue at peace, that supplies of every
+kind would no doubt arrive for them, but that time was necessary to
+organize the trade. The fact is that the Assiniboins treat the Mandans
+as the Sioux do the Ricaras; by their vicinity to the British they get
+all the supplies, which they withhold or give at pleasure to the remoter
+Indians: the consequence is, that however badly treated, the Mandans and
+Ricaras are very slow to retaliate lest they should* lose their trade
+altogether.
+
+Monday 19. The ice continues to float in the river, the wind high from
+the northwest, and the weather cold. Our hunters arrived from their
+excursion below, and bring a very fine supply of thirty-two deer, eleven
+elk, and five buffaloe, all of which was hung in a smokehouse.
+
+Tuesday 20. We this day moved into our huts which are now completed.
+This place which we call Fort Mandan, is situated in a point of low
+ground, on the north side of the Missouri, covered with tall and heavy
+cottonwood. The works consist of two rows of huts or sheds, forming an
+angle where they joined each other; each row containing four rooms, of
+fourteen feet square and seven feet high, with plank ceiling*, and the
+roof slanting so as to form a loft above the rooms, the highest part of
+which is eighteen feet from the ground: the backs of the huts formed a
+wall of that height, and opposite the angle the place of the wall was
+supplied by picketing; in the area were two rooms for stores and
+provisions. The latitude by observation is 47 degrees 21' 47", and the
+computed distance from the mouth of the Missouri sixteen hundred miles.
+
+In the course of the day several Indians came down to partake of our
+fresh meat; among the rest, three chiefs of the second Mandan village.
+They inform us that the Sioux on the Missouri above the Chayenne river,
+threaten to attack them this winter; that these Sioux are much irritated
+at the Ricaras for having made peace through our means with the Mandans,
+and have lately ill treated three Ricaras who carried the pipe of peace
+to them, by beating them and taking away their horses. We gave them
+assurances that we would protect them from all their enemies.
+
+November 21st. The weather was this day fine: the river clear of ice and
+rising a little: we are now settled in our new winter habitation, and
+shall wait with much anxiety the first return of spring to continue our
+journey.
+
+The villages near which we are established are five in number, and are
+the residence of three distinct nations: the Mandans, the Ahnahaways,
+and the Minnetarees. The history of the Mandans, as we received it from
+our interpreters and from the chiefs themselves, and as it is attested
+by existing monuments, illustrates more than that of any other nation
+the unsteady movements and the tottering fortunes of the American
+nations. Within the recollection of living witnesses, the Mandans were
+settled forty years ago in nine villages, the ruins of which we passed
+about eighty miles below, and situated seven on the west and two on the
+east side of the Missouri. The two finding themselves wasting away
+before the small-pox and the Sioux, united into one village, and moved
+up the river opposite to the Ricaras. The same causes reduced the
+remaining seven to five villages, till at length they emigrated in a
+body to the Ricara nation, where they formed themselves into two
+villages, and joined those of their countrymen who had gone before them.
+In their new residence they were still insecure, and at length the three
+villages ascended the Missouri to their present position. The two who
+had emigrated together still settled in the two villages on the
+northwest side of the Missouri, while the single village took a position
+on the southeast side. In this situation they were found by those who
+visited them in 1796; since which the two villages have united into one.
+They are now in two villages, one on the southeast of the Missouri, the
+other on the opposite side, and at the distance of three miles across.
+The first, in an open plain, contains about forty or fifty lodges, built
+in the same way as those of the Ricaras: the second, the same number,
+and both may raise about three hundred and fifty men.
+
+On the same side of the river, and at the distance of four miles from
+the lower Mandan village, is another called Mahaha. It is situated in a
+high plain at the mouth of Knife river, and is the residence of the
+Ahnahaways. This nation, whose name indicates that they were "people
+whose village is on a hill," formerly resided on the Missouri, about
+thirty miles below where they now live. The Assiniboins and Sioux forced
+them to a spot five miles higher, where the greatest part of them were
+put to death, and the rest emigrated to their present situation, in
+order to obtain an assylum near the Minnetarees. They are called by the
+French, Soulier Noir or Shoe Indians; by the Mandans, Wattasoons, and
+their whole force is about fifty men.
+
+On the south side of the same Knife river, half a mile above the Mahaha
+and in the same open plain with it, is a village of Minnetarees surnamed
+Metaharta, who are about one hundred and fifty men in number. On the
+opposite side of Knife river, and one and a half mile above this village
+is a second of Minnetarees, who may be considered as the proper
+Minnetaree nation. It is situated in a beautiful low plain, and contains
+four hundred and fifty warriors. The accounts which we received of the
+Minnetarees were contradictory. The Mandans say that this people came
+out of the water to the east, and settled near them in their former
+establishment in nine villages; that they were very numerous, and fixed
+themselves in one village on the southern side of the Missouri. A
+quarrel about a buffaloe divided the nation, of which two bands went
+into the plains, and were known by the name of Crow and Paunch Indians,
+and the rest moved to their present establishment. The Minnetarees
+proper assert, on the contrary, that they grew where they now live, and
+will never emigrate from the spot; the great spirit having declared that
+if they moved they would all die. They also say that the Minnetarees
+Metaharta, that is Minnetarees of the Willows, whose language with very
+little variation is their own, came many years ago from the plains and
+settled near them, and perhaps the two traditions may be reconciled by
+the natural presumption that these Minnetarees were the tribe known to
+the Mandans below, and that they ascended the river for the purpose of
+rejoining the Minnetarees proper. These Minnetarees are part of the
+great nation called Fall Indians, who occupy the intermediate country
+between the Missouri and the Saskaskawan, and who are known by the name
+of Minnetarees of the Missouri, and Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie; that
+is, residing near or rather frequenting the establishment in the prairie
+on the Saskaskawan. These Minnetarees indeed, told us that they had
+relations on the Saskaskawan, whom they had never known till they met
+them in war, and having engaged in the night were astonished at
+discovering that they were fighting with men who spoke their own
+language. The name of Grosventres, or Bigbellies is given to these
+Minnetarees, as well as to all the Fall Indians. The inhabitants of
+these five villages, all of which are within the distance of six miles,
+live in harmony with each other. The Ahnahaways understand in part the
+language of the Minnetarees: the dialect of the Mandans differs widely
+from both; but their long residence together has insensibly blended
+their manners, and occasioned some approximation in language,
+particularly as to objects of daily occurrence and obvious to the
+senses.
+
+November 22. The morning was fine, and the day warm. We purchased from
+the Mandans a quantity of corn of a mixed colour, which they dug up in
+ears from holes made near the front of their lodges, in which it is
+buried during the winter: this morning the sentinel informed us that an
+Indian was about to kill his wife near the fort; we went down to the
+house of our interpreter where we found the parties, and after
+forbidding any violence, inquired into the cause of his intending to
+commit such as atrocity. It appeared that some days ago a quarrel had
+taken place between him and his wife, in consequence of which she had
+taken refuge in the house where the two squaws of our interpreter lived:
+by running away she forfeited her life, which might have been lawfully
+taken by the husband. About two days ago she had returned to the
+village, but the same evening came back to the fort much beaten and
+stabbed in three places, and the husband now came for the purpose of
+completing his revenge. He observed that he had lent her to one of our
+serjeants for a night, and that if he wanted her he would give her to
+him altogether: we gave him a few presents and tried to persuade him to
+take his wife home; the grand chief too happened to arrive at the same
+moment, and reproached him with his violence, till at length they went
+off together, but by no means in a state of much apparent love.
+
+November 23. Again we had a fair and warm day, with the wind from the
+southeast: the river is now at a stand having risen four inches in the
+whole.
+
+November 24. The wind continued from the same quarter and the weather
+was warm: we were occupied in finishing our huts and making a large rope
+of elk-skin to draw our boat on the bank.
+
+Sunday, November 25. The weather is still fine, warm and pleasant, and
+the river falls one inch and a half. Captain Lewis went on an excursion
+to the villages accompanied by eight men. A Minnetaree chief, the first
+who has visited us, came down to the fort: his name was Waukerassa, but
+as both the interpreters had gone with captain Lewis we were obliged to
+confine our civilities to some presents with which he was much pleased:
+we now completed our huts, and fortunately too, for the next day,
+
+Monday, November 26, before daylight the wind shifted to the northwest,
+and blew very hard, with cloudy weather and a keen cold air, which
+confined us much and prevented us from working: the night continued very
+cold, and,
+
+Tuesday 27, the weather cloudy, the wind continuing from the northwest
+and the river crowded with floating ice. Captain Lewis returned with two
+chiefs Mahnotah, an Ahnahaway, and Minnessurraree a Minnetaree, and a
+third warrior: they explained to us that the reason of their not having
+come to see us, was that the Mandans had told them that we meant to
+combine with the Sioux and cut them off in the course of the winter: a
+suspicion increased by the strength of the fort, and the circumstance of
+our interpreters having both removed there with their families: these
+reports we did not fail to disprove to their entire satisfaction, and
+amused them by every attention, particularly by the dancing of the men
+which diverted them highly. All the Indians whom captain Lewis had
+visited were very well disposed, and received him with great kindness,
+except a principal chief of one of the upper villages, named
+Mabpahpaparapassatoo or Horned Weasel, who made use of the civilized
+indecorum of refusing to be seen, and when captain Lewis called he was
+told the chief was not at home. In the course of the day seven of the
+northwest company's traders arrived from the Assiniboin river, and one
+of their interpreters having undertaken to circulate among the Indians
+unfavourable reports, it become necessary to warn them of the
+consequences if they did not desist from such proceedings. The river
+fell two inches to-day and the weather became very cold.
+
+Wednesday 28. About eight o'clock last evening it began to snow and
+continued till daybreak, after which it ceased till seven o'clock, but
+then resumed and continued during the day, the weather being cold and
+the river full of floating ice: about eight o'clock Poscopsahe came down
+to visit us, with some warriors; we gave them presents and entertained
+them with all that might amuse their curiosity, and at parting we told
+them that we had heard of the British trader, Mr. Laroche, having
+attempted to distribute medals and flags among them, but that those
+emblems could not be received from any other than the American nation
+without incurring the displeasure of their great father the president.
+They left us much pleased with their treatment. The river fell one inch
+to-day.
+
+Thursday 29. The wind is again from the northwest, the weather cold, and
+the snow which fell yesterday and this night is thirteen inches in
+depth. The river closed during the night at the village above, and fell
+two feet; but this afternoon it began to rise a little. Mr. Laroche, the
+principal of the seven traders, came with one of his men to see us; we
+told him that we should not permit him to give medals and flags to the
+Indians; he declared that he had no such intention, and we then suffered
+him to make use of one of our interpreters, on his stipulating not to
+touch any subject but that of his traffic with them. An unfortunate
+accident occurred to sergeant Pryor, who in taking down the boat's mast
+dislocated his shoulder, nor was it till after four trials that we
+replaced it.
+
+Friday 30. About eight o'clock an Indian came to the opposite bank of
+the river, calling out that he had something important to communicate,
+and on sending for him, he told us that five Mandans had been met about
+eight leagues to the southwest by a party of Sioux, who had killed one
+of them, wounded two, and taken nine horses; that four of the Wattasoons
+were missing, and that the Mandans expected an attack. We thought this
+an excellent opportunity to discountenance the injurious reports against
+us, and to fix the wavering confidence of the nation. Captain Clarke
+therefore instantly crossed the river with twenty-three men strongly
+armed, and circling the town approached it from behind. His unexpected
+appearance surprised and alarmed the chiefs, who came out to meet him,
+and conducted him to the village. He then told them that having heard of
+the outrage just committed, he had come to assist his dutiful children;
+that if they would assemble their warriors and those of the nation, he
+would lead them against the Sioux and avenge the blood of their
+countrymen. After some minutes conversation, Oheenaw the Chayenne arose;
+"We now see," said he, "that what you have told us is true, since as
+soon as our enemies threaten to attack us you come to protect us and are
+ready to chastise those who have spilt our blood. We did indeed listen
+to your good talk, for when you told us that the other nations were
+inclined to peace with us, we went out carelessly in small parties, and
+some have been killed by the Sioux and Ricaras. But I knew that the
+Ricaras were liars, and I told their chief who accompanied you, that his
+whole nation were liars and bad men; that we had several times made a
+peace with them which they were the first to break; that whenever we
+pleased we might shoot them like buffaloe, but that we had no wish to
+kill them; that we would not suffer them to kill us, nor steal our
+horses; and that although we agreed to make peace with them, because our
+two fathers desired it, yet we did not believe that they would be
+faithful long. Such, father, was my language to them in your presence,
+and you see that instead of listening to your good counsels they have
+spilt our blood. A few days ago two Ricaras came here and told us that
+two of their villages were making moccasins, that the Sioux were
+stirring them up against us, and that we ought to take care of our
+horses; yet these very Ricaras we sent home as soon as the news reached
+us to-day, lest our people should kill them in the first moment of grief
+for their murdered relatives. Four of the Wattasoons whom we expected
+back in sixteen days have been absent twenty-four, and we fear have
+fallen. But father the snow is now deep, the weather cold, and our
+horses cannot travel through the plains; the murderers have gone off: if
+you will conduct us in the spring, when the snow has disappeared, we
+will assemble all the surrounding warriors and follow you."
+
+Captain Clarke replied that we were always willing and able to defend
+them; that he was sorry that the snow prevented their marching to meet
+the Sioux, since he wished to show them that the warriors of their great
+father would chastise the enemies of his obedient children who opened
+their ears to his advice; that if some Ricaras had joined the Sioux,
+they should remember that there were bad men in every nation, and that
+they should not be offended at the Ricaras till they saw whether these
+ill-disposed men were countenanced by the whole tribe; that the Sioux
+possessed great influence over the Ricaras, whom they supplied with
+military stores, and sometimes led them astray, because they were afraid
+to oppose them: but that this should be the less offensive since the
+Mandans themselves were under the same apprehensions from the
+Assiniboins and Knistenaux, and that while they were thus dependant,
+both the Ricaras and Mandans ought to keep on terms with their powerful
+neighbours, whom they may afterwards set at defiance, when we shall
+supply them with arms, and take them under our protection.
+
+After two hours conversation captain Clarke left the village. The chief
+repeatedly thanked him for the fatherly protection he had given them,
+observing that the whole village had been weeping all night and day for
+the brave young man who had been slain, but now they would wipe their
+eyes and weep no more as they saw that their father would protect them.
+He then crossed the river on the ice and returned on the north side to
+the fort. The day as well as the evening was cold, and the river rose to
+its former height.
+
+Saturday, December 1. The wind was from the northwest, and the whole
+party engaged in picketing the fort. About ten o'clock the half-brother
+of the man who had been killed, came to inform us that six Sharhas or
+Chayenne Indians had arrived, bringing a pipe of peace, and that their
+nation was three days march behind them. Three Pawnees had accompanied
+the Sharhas, and the Mandans being afraid of the Sharhas on account of
+their being at peace with the Sioux, wished to put both them and the
+three Pawnees to death; but the chiefs had forbidden it as it would be
+contrary to our wishes. We gave him a present of tobacco, and although
+from his connexion with the sufferer, he was more embittered against the
+Pawnees than any other Mandan, yet he seemed perfectly satisfied with
+our pacific counsels and advice. The Mandans, we observe, call all the
+Ricaras by the name of Pawnees; the name of Ricaras being that by which
+the nation distinguishes itself.
+
+In the evening we were visited by a Mr. Henderson, who came from the
+Hudson bay company to trade with the Minnetarees. He had been about
+eight days on his route in a direction nearly south, and brought with
+him tobacco, beeds, and other merchandize to trade for furs, and a few
+guns which are to be exchanged for horses.
+
+Sunday, December 2. The latter part of the evening was warm, and a thaw
+continued till the morning, when the wind shifted to the north. At
+eleven o'clock the chiefs of the lower village brought down four of the
+Sharhas. We explained to them our intentions, and advised them to remain
+at peace with each other: we also gave them a flag, some tobacco, and a
+speech for their nation. These were accompanied by a letter to messrs.
+Tabeau and Gravelines at the Ricara village, requesting them to preserve
+peace if possible, and to declare the part which we should be forced to
+take if the Ricaras and Sioux made war on those whom we had adopted.
+After distributing a few presents to the Sharhas and Mandans, and
+showing them our curiosities we dismissed them, apparently well pleased
+at their reception.
+
+Monday, December 3. The morning was fine, but in the afternoon the
+weather became cold with the wind from the northwest. The father of the
+Mandan who was killed brought us a present of dried pumpkins and some
+pemitigon, for which we gave him some small articles. Our offer of
+assistance to avenge the death of his son seemed to have produced a
+grateful respect from him, as well as from the brother of the deceased,
+which pleased us much.
+
+Tuesday 4th. The wind continues from the northwest, the weather cloudy
+and raw, and the river rose one inch, Oscapsahe and two young chiefs
+pass the day with us. The whole religion of the Mandans consists in the
+belief of one great spirit presiding over their destinies. This being
+must be in the nature of a good genius since it is associated with the
+healing art, and the great spirit is synonymous with great medicine, a
+name also applied to every thing which they do not comprehend. Each
+individual selects for himself the particular object of his devotion,
+which is termed his medicine, and is either some invisible being or more
+commonly some animal, which thenceforward becomes his protector or his
+intercessor with the great spirit; to propitiate whom every attention is
+lavished, and every personal consideration is sacrificed. "I was lately
+owner of seventeen horses," said a Mandan to us one day, "but I have
+offered them all up to my medicine and am now poor." He had in reality
+taken all his wealth, his horses, into the plain, and turning them loose
+committed them to the care of his medicine and abandoned them forever.
+The horses less religious took care of themselves, and the pious votary
+travelled home on foot. Their belief in a future state is connected with
+this tradition of their origin: the whole nation resided in one large
+village under ground near a subterraneous lake; a grape-vine extended
+its roots down to their habitation and gave them a view of the light:
+some of the most adventurous climed up the vine and were delighted with
+the sight of the earth, which they found covered with buffaloe and rich
+with every kind of fruits: returning with the grapes they had gathered,
+their countrymen were so pleased with the taste of them that the whole
+nation resolved to leave their dull residence for the charms of the
+upper region; men, women and children ascended by means of the vine; but
+when about half the nation had reached the surface of the earth, a
+corpulent woman who was clambering up the vine broke it with her weight,
+and closed upon herself and the rest of the nation the light of the sun.
+Those who were left on earth made a village below where we saw the nine
+villages; and when the Mandans die they expect to return to the original
+seats of their forefathers; the good reaching the ancient village by
+means of the lake, which the burden of the sins of the wicked will not
+enable them to cross.
+
+Wednesday 5. The morning was cold and disagreeable, the wind from the
+southeast accompanied with snow: in the evening there was snow again and
+the wind shifted to the northeast: we were visited by several Indians
+with a present of pumpkins, and by two of the traders of the northwest
+company.
+
+Thursday 6. The wind was violent from the north northwest with some
+snow, the air keen and cold. At eight o'clock A.M. the thermometer stood
+at ten degrees above 0, and the river rose an inch and a half in the
+course of the day.
+
+Friday, December 7. The wind still continued from the northwest and the
+day is very cold: Shahaka the chief of the lower village came to apprise
+us that the buffaloe were near, and that his people were waiting for us
+to join them in the chase: captain Clark with fifteen men went out and
+found the Indians engaged in killing the buffaloe, the hunters mounted
+on horseback and armed with bows and arrows encircle the herd, and
+gradually drive them into a plain or an open place fit for the movements
+of horse; they then ride in among them, and singling out a buffaloe, a
+female being preferred, go as close as possible and wound her with
+arrows till they think they have given the mortal stroke; when they
+pursue another till the quiver is exhausted: if, which rarely happens,
+the wounded buffaloe attacks the hunter, he evades his blow by the
+agility of his horse which is trained for the combat with great
+dexterity. When they have killed the requisite number they collect their
+game, and the squaws and attendants come up from the rear and skin and
+dress the animals. Captain Clarke killed ten buffaloe, of which five
+only were brought to the fort, the rest which could not be conveyed home
+being seized by the Indians, among whom the custom is that whenever a
+buffaloe is found dead without an arrow or any particular mark, he is
+the property of the finder; so that often a hunter secures scarcely any
+of the game he kills if the arrow happens to fall off: whatever is left
+out at night falls to the share of the wolves, who are the constant and
+numerous attendants of the buffaloe. The river closed opposite the fort
+last night, an inch and a half in thickness. In the morning the
+thermometer stood at one degree below 0. Three men were badly
+frostbitten in consequence of their exposure.
+
+Saturday 8. The thermometer stood at twelve degrees below 0, that is at
+forty-two degrees below the freezing point: the wind was from the
+northwest. Captain Lewis with fifteen men went out to hunt the buffaloe;
+great numbers of which darkened the prairies for a considerable
+distance: they did not return till after dark, having killed eight
+buffaloe and one deer. The hunt was, however, very fatiguing, as they
+were obliged to make a circuit at the distance of more than seven miles;
+the cold too, was so excessive that the air was filled with icy
+particles resembling a fog, and the snow generally six or eight inches
+deep and sometimes eighteen, in consequence of which two of the party
+were hurt by falls, and several had their feet frostbitten.
+
+Sunday 9. The wind was this day from the east, the thermometer at seven
+degrees above 0, and the sun shone clear: two chiefs visited us, one in
+a sleigh drawn by a dog and loaded with meat.
+
+Monday 10. Captain Clarke who had gone out yesterday with eighteen men
+to bring in the meat we had killed the day before, and to continue the
+hunt, came in at twelve o'clock. After killing nine buffaloe and
+preparing that already dead, he had spent a cold disagreeable night on
+the snow, with no covering but a small blanket, sheltered by the hides
+of the buffaloe they had killed. We observe large herds of buffaloe
+crossing the river on the ice, the men who were frostbitten are
+recovering, but the weather is still exceedingly cold, the wind being
+from the north, and the thermometer at ten and eleven degrees below 0:
+the rise of the river is one inch and a half.
+
+Tuesday 11. The weather became so intensely cold that we sent for all
+the hunters who had remained out with captain Clarke's party, and they
+returned in the evening several of them frostbitten. The wind was from
+the north and the thermometer at sunrise stood at twenty-one below 0,
+the ice in the atmosphere being so thick as to render the weather hazy
+and give the appearance of two suns reflecting each other. The river
+continues at a stand. Pocapsahe made us a visit to-day.
+
+Wednesday, December 12. The wind is still from the north, the
+thermometer being at sunrise thirty-eight degrees below 0. One of the
+Ahnahaways brought us down the half of an antelope killed near the fort;
+we had been informed that all these animals return to the Black
+mountains, but there are great numbers of them about us at this season
+which we might easily kill, but are unwilling to venture out before our
+constitutions are hardened gradually to the climate. We measured the
+river on the ice, and find it five hundred yards wide immediately
+opposite the fort.
+
+Thursday 13. Last night was clear and a very heavy frost covered the old
+snow, the thermometer at sun rise being twenty degrees below 0, and
+followed by a fine day. The river falls.
+
+Friday 14. The morning was fine, and the weather having moderated so
+far, that the mercury stood at 0, captain Lewis went down with a party
+to hunt; they proceeded about eighteen miles, but the buffaloe having
+left the banks of the river they saw only two, which were so poor as not
+to be worth killing, and shot two deer. Notwithstanding the snow we were
+visited by a large number of the Mandans.
+
+Saturday 15. Captain Lewis finding no game returned to the fort hunting
+on both sides of the river, but with no success. The wind being from the
+north, the mercury at sunrise eight degrees below 0, and the snow of
+last night an inch and a half in depth. The Indian chiefs continue to
+visit us to-day with presents of meat.
+
+Sunday 16. The morning is clear and cold, the mercury at sunrise 22
+degrees below 0. A Mr. Haney with two other persons from the British
+establishment on the Assiniboin, arrived in six days with a letter from
+Mr. Charles Chabouilles, one of the company, who with much politeness
+offered to render us any service in his power.
+
+Monday 17. The weather to-day was colder than any we had yet
+experienced, the thermometer at sunrise being 45 degrees below 0, and
+about eight o'clock it fell to 74 degrees below the freezing point.
+From Mr. Haney, who is a very sensible intelligent man, we obtained much
+geographical information with regard to the country between the Missouri
+and Mississippi, and the various tribes of Sioux who inhabit it.
+
+Tuesday 18. The thermometer at sunrise was 32 degrees below 0. The
+Indians had invited us yesterday to join their chace to-day, but the
+seven men whom we sent returned in consequence of the cold, which was so
+severe last night that we were obliged to have the sentinel relieved
+every half hour. The northwest traders however left us on their return
+home.
+
+Wednesday 19. The weather moderated, and the river rose a little,
+so that we were enabled to continue the picketing of the fort.
+Notwithstanding the extreme cold, we observe the Indians at the village
+engaged out in the open air at a game which resembled billiards more
+than any thing we had seen, and which we inclined to suspect may have
+been acquired by ancient intercourse with the French of Canada. From the
+first to the second chief's lodge, a distance of about fifty yards, was
+covered with timber smoothed and joined so as to be as level as the
+floor of one of our houses, with a battery at the end to stop the rings:
+these rings were of clay-stone and flat like the chequers for drafts,
+and the sticks were about four feet long, with two short pieces at one
+end in the form of a mace, so fixed that the whole will slide along the
+board. Two men fix themselves at one end, each provided with a stick,
+and one of them with a ring: they then run along the board, and about
+half way slide the sticks after the ring.
+
+Thursday 20. The wind was from the N.W. the weather moderate, the
+thermometer 24 degrees above at sunrise. We availed ourselves of this
+change to picket the fort near the river.
+
+Friday 21. The day was fine and warm, the wind N.W. by W. The Indian
+who had been prevented a few days ago from killing his wife, came with
+both his wives to the fort, and was very desirous of reconciling our
+interpreter, a jealousy against whom on account of his wife's taking
+refuge in his house, had been the cause of his animosity. A woman
+brought her child with an abscess in the lower part of the back, and
+offered as much corn as she could carry for some medicine; we
+administered to it of course very cheerfully.
+
+Saturday, 22d. A number of squaws and men dressed like squaws brought
+corn to trade for small articles with the men. Among other things we
+procured two horns of the animal called by the French the Rock mountain
+sheep, and known to the Mandans by the name of ahsahta. The animal
+itself is about the size of a small elk or large deer: the horns winding
+like those of a ram which they resemble also in texture, though larger
+and thicker.
+
+Sunday, 23d. The weather was fine and warm like that of yesterday: we
+were again visited by crowds of Indians of all descriptions, who came
+either to trade or from mere curiosity. Among the rest Kogahami, the
+Little Raven, brought his wife and son loaded with corn, and she then
+entertained us with a favourite Mandan dish, a mixture of pumpkins,
+beans, corn, and chokecherries with the stones, all boiled together in a
+kettle, and forming a composition by no means unpalatable.
+
+Monday, 24th. The day continued warm and pleasant, and the number of
+visitors became troublesome. As a present to three of the chiefs, we
+divided a fillet of sheepskin which we brought for spunging into three
+pieces each of two inches in width; they were delighted at the gift,
+which they deemed of equal value with a fine horse. We this day
+completed our fort, and the next morning being Christmas,
+
+Tuesday, 25th, we were awaked before day by a discharge of three
+platoons from the party. We had told the Indians not to visit us as it
+was one of our great medicine days; so that the men remained at home and
+amused themselves in various ways, particularly with dancing in which
+they take great pleasure. The American flag was hoisted for the first
+time in the fort; the best provisions we had were brought out, and this,
+with a little brandy, enabled them to pass the day in great festivity.
+
+Wednesday, 26th. The weather is again temperate, but no Indians have
+come to see us. One of the northwest traders who came down to request
+the aid of our Minnetaree interpreter, informs us that a party of
+Minnetarees who had gone in pursuit of the Assiniboins who lately stole
+their horses had just returned. As is their custom, they came back in
+small detachments, the last of which brought home eight horses which
+they had captured or stolen from an Assiniboin camp on Mouse river.
+
+Thursday, 27th. A little fine snow fell this morning and the air was
+colder than yesterday, with a high northwest wind. We were fortunate
+enough to have among our men a good blacksmith, whom we set to work to
+make a variety of articles; his operations seemed to surprise the
+Indians who came to see us, but nothing could equal their astonishment
+at the bellows, which they considered as a very great medicine. Having
+heretofore promised a more particular account of the Sioux, the
+following may serve as a general outline of their history:
+
+Almost the whole of that vast tract of country comprised between the
+Mississippi, the Red River of Lake Winnepeg, the Saskaskawan, and the
+Missouri, is loosely occupied by a great nation whose primitive name is
+Darcota, but who are called Sioux by the French, Sues by the English.
+Their original seats were on the Mississippi, but they have gradually
+spread themselves abroad and become subdivided into numerous tribes. Of
+these, what may be considered as the Darcotas are the Mindawarcarton, or
+Minowakanton, known to the French by the name of the Gens du Lac, or
+People of the Lake. Their residence is on both sides of the Mississippi
+near the falls of St. Anthony, and the probable number of their warriors
+about three hundred. Above them, on the river St. Peter's, is the
+Wahpatone, a smaller band of nearly two hundred men; and still farther
+up the same river below Yellow-wood river are the Wahpatootas or Gens de
+Feuilles, an inferior band of not more than one hundred men; while the
+sources of the St. Peter's are occupied by the Sisatoones, a band
+consisting of about two hundred warriors.
+
+These bands rarely if ever approach the Missouri, which is occupied by
+their kinsmen the Yanktons and the Tetons. The Yanktons are of two
+tribes, those of the plains, or rather of the north, a wandering race of
+about five hundred men, who roam over the plains at the heads of the
+Jacques, the Sioux, and the Red river; and those of the south, who
+possess the country between the Jacques and Sioux rivers and the
+Desmoine. But the bands of Sioux most known on the Missouri are the
+Tetons. The first who are met on ascending the Missouri is the tribe
+called by the French the Tetons of the Boise Brule or Burntwood, who
+reside on both sides of the Missouri, about White and Teton rivers, and
+number two hundred warriors. Above them on the Missouri are the Teton
+Okandandas, a band of one hundred and fifty men living below the
+Chayenne river, between which and the Wetarhoo river is a third band,
+called Teton Minnakenozzo, of nearly two hundred and fifty men; and
+below the Warreconne is the fourth and last tribe of Tetons of about
+three hundred men, and called Teton Saone. Northward of these, between
+the Assiniboin and the Missouri, are two bands of Assiniboins, one on
+Mouse river of about two hundred men, and called Assiniboin Menatopa;
+the other, residing on both sides of White river, called by the French
+Gens de Feuilles, and amounting to two hundred and fifty men. Beyond
+these a band of Assiniboins of four hundred and fifty men, and called
+the Big Devils, wander on the heads of Milk, Porcupine, and Martha's
+rivers; while still farther to the north are seen two bands of the same
+nation, one of five hundred and the other of two hundred, roving on the
+Saskaskawan. Those Assiniboins are recognised by a similarity of
+language, and by tradition as descendents or seceders from the Sioux;
+though often at war are still acknowledged as relations. The Sioux
+themselves, though scattered, meet annually on the Jacques, those on the
+Missouri trading with those on the Mississippi.
+
+
+
+
+                                CHAPTER VI.
+
+     The party increase in the favour of the Mandans--Description of a
+     buffaloe dance--Medicine dance--The fortitude with which the
+     Indians bear the severity of the season--Distress of the party for
+     want of provisions--The great importance of the blacksmith in
+     procuring it--Depredations of the Sioux--The homage paid to the
+     medicine stone--Summary act of justice among the Minnetarees--The
+     process by which the Mandans and Ricaras make beads--Character of
+     the Missouri, of the surrounding country, and of the rivers,
+     creeks, islands, &c.
+
+
+Friday, 28th. The wind continued high last night, the frost severe, and
+the snow drifting in great quantities through the plains.
+
+Saturday, 29th. There was a frost fell last night nearly one quarter of
+an inch in depth, which continued to fall till the sun had gained some
+height: the mercury at sunrise stood at 9 degrees below 0: there were a
+number of Indians at the fort in the course of the day.
+
+Sunday, 30th. The weather was cold, and the thermometer 20 degrees below
+0. We killed one deer, and yesterday one of the men shot a wolf. The
+Indians brought corn, beans, and squashes, which they very readily gave
+for getting their axes and kettles mended. In their general conduct
+during these visits they are honest, but will occasionally pilfer any
+small article.
+
+Monday, 31. During the night there was a high wind which covered the ice
+with hillocks of mixed sand and snow: the day was however fine, and the
+Indians came in great numbers for the purpose of having their utensils
+repaired.
+
+Tuesday, January 1, 1805. The new year was welcomed by two shot from the
+swivel and a round of small arms. The weather was cloudy but moderate;
+the mercury which at sunrise was at 18 degrees, in the course of the day
+rose to 34 degrees above 0: towards evening it began to rain, and at
+night we had snow, the temperature for which is about 0. In the morning
+we permitted sixteen men with their music to go up to the first village,
+where they delighted the whole tribe with their dances, particularly
+with the movements of one of the Frenchmen who danced on his head. In
+return they presented the dancers with several buffaloe robes and
+quantities of corn. We were desirous of showing this attention to the
+village, because they had received an impression that we had been
+wanting in regard for them, and they had in consequence circulated
+invidious comparisons between us and the northern traders: all these
+however they declared to captain Clarke, who visited them in the course
+of the morning, were made in jest. As captain Clarke was about leaving
+the village, two of their chiefs returned from a mission to the
+Grosventres or wandering Minnetarees. These people were encamped about
+ten miles above, and while there one of the Ahnahaways had stolen a
+Minnetaree girl: the whole nation immediately espoused the quarrel, and
+one hundred and fifty of their warriors were marching down to revenge
+the insult on the Ahnahaways. The chief of that nation took the girl
+from the ravisher, and giving her to the Mandans requested their
+intercession. The messengers went out to meet the warriors, and
+delivered the young damsel into the hands of her countrymen, smoked the
+pipe of peace with them, and were fortunate enough to avert their
+indignation and induce them to return. In the evening some of the men
+came to the fort and the rest slept in the village. Pocapsahe also
+visited us and brought some meat on his wife's back.
+
+Wednesday, January 2. It snowed last night, and during this day the same
+scene of gayety was renewed at the second village, and all the men
+returned in the evening.
+
+Thursday 3. Last night it became very cold, and this morning we had some
+snow: our hunters were sent out for buffaloe, but the game had been
+frightened from the river by the Indians, so that they obtained only
+one: they however killed a hare and a wolf. Among the Indians who
+visited us was a Minnetaree who came to seek his wife: she had been much
+abused and came here for protection, but returned with him; as we had no
+authority to separate those whom even the Mandan rites had united.
+
+Friday 4. The morning was cloudy and warm, the mercury being 28 degrees
+above 0: but towards evening the wind changed to northwest, and the
+weather became cold. We sent some hunters down the river, but they
+killed only one buffaloe and a wolf. We received the visit of Kagohami
+who is very friendly, and to whom we gave a hankerchief and two files.
+
+Saturday 5. We had high and boisterous winds last night and this
+morning: the Indians continue to purchase repairs with grain of
+different kinds. In the first village there has been a buffaloe dance
+for the last three nights, which has put them all into commotion, and
+the description which we received from those of the party who visited
+the village and from other sources, is not a little ludicrous: the
+buffaloe dance is an institution originally intended for the benefit of
+the old men, and practised at their suggestion. When buffaloe becomes
+scarce they send a man to harangue the village, declaring that the game
+is far off and that a feast is necessary to bring it back, and if the
+village be disposed a day and place is named for the celebration of it.
+At the appointed hour the old men arrive, and seat themselves
+crosslegged on skins round a fire in the middle of the lodge with a sort
+of doll or small image, dressed like a female, placed before them. The
+young men bring with them a platter of provisions, a pipe of tobacco,
+and their wives, whose dress on the occasion is only a robe or mantle
+loosely thrown round the body. On their arrival each youth selects the
+old man whom he means to distinguish by his favour, and spreads before
+him the provisions, after which he presents the pipe and smokes with
+him. Mox senex vir simulacrum parvae puellae ostensit. Tune egrediens
+eaetu, jecit effigium solo et superincumbens, senili ardore veneris
+complexit. Hoc est signum. Denique uxor e turba recessit, et jactu
+corporis, fovet amplexus viri solo recubante. Maritus appropinquans
+senex vir dejecto vultu, et honorem et dignitatem ejus conservare
+amplexu uxoris illum oravit. Forsitan imprimis ille refellit; dehine,
+maritus multis precibus, multis lachrymis, et multis donis vehementer
+intercessit. Tune senex amator perculsus miserecordia, tot precibus, tot
+lachrymis, et tot donis, conjugali amplexu submisit. Multum ille
+jactatus est, sed debilis et effoetus senectute, frustra jactatus est.
+Maritus interdum stans juxta guadit multum honore, et ejus dignitati sic
+conservata. Unus nostrum sodalium multum alacrior et potentior
+juventute, hac nocte honorem quartour maritorum custodivit.
+
+Sunday 6. A clear cold morning with high wind: we caught in a trap a
+large gray wolf, and last night obtained in the same way a fox who had
+for some time infested the neighbourhood of the fort. Only a few Indians
+visited us to-day.
+
+Monday 7. The weather was again clear and cold with a high northwest
+wind, and the thermometer at sunrise 22 degrees below 0; the river fell
+an inch. Shahaka the Big White chief dined with us, and gave a connected
+sketch of the country as far as the mountains.
+
+Tuesday 8. The wind was still from the northwest, the day cold, and we
+received few Indians at the fort. Besides the buffaloe dance we have
+just described, there is another called medicine dance, an entertainment
+given by any person desirous of doing honour to his medicine or genius.
+He announces, that on such a day he will sacrifice his horses, or other
+property, and invites the young females of the village to assist in
+rendering homage to his medicine; all the inhabitants may join in the
+solemnity, which is performed in the open plain and by daylight, but the
+dance is reserved for the virgins or at least the unmarried females, who
+disdain the incumbrance or the ornament of dress. The feast is opened
+by devoting the goods of the master of the feast to his medicine, which
+is represented by a head of the animal itself, or by a medicine bag if
+the deity be an invisible being. The young women then begin the dance,
+in the intervals of which each will prostrate herself before the
+assembly to challenge or reward the boldness of the youth, who are often
+tempted by feeling or the hopes of distinction to achieve the adventure.
+
+Wednesday 9. The weather is cold, the thermometer at sunrise 21 degrees
+below 0. Kagohami breakfasted with us, and captain Clarke with three or
+four men accompanied him and a party of Indians to hunt, in which they
+were so fortunate as to kill a number of buffaloe: but they were
+incommoded by snow, by high and squally winds, and by extreme cold;
+several of the Indians came to the fort nearly frozen, others are
+missing, and we are uneasy, for one of our men who was separated from
+the rest during the chase has not returned: In the morning,
+
+Thursday 10, however, he came back just as we were sending out five men
+in search of him. The night had been excessively cold, and this morning
+at sunrise the mercury stood at 40 degrees below 0, or 72 below the
+freezing point. He had however, made a fire and kept himself tolerably
+warm. A young Indian, about thirteen years of age, also came in soon
+after. His father who came last night to inquire after him very
+anxiously, had sent him in the afternoon to the fort: he was overtaken
+by the night, and was obliged to sleep on the snow with no covering
+except a pair of antelope skin moccasins and leggings and a buffaloe
+robe: his feet being frozen we put them into cold water, and gave him
+every attention in our power. About the same time an Indian who had also
+been missing returned to the fort, and although his dress was very thin,
+and he had slept on the snow without a fire, he had not suffered the
+slightest inconvenience. We have indeed observed that these Indians
+support the rigours of the season in a way which we had hitherto thought
+impossible. A more pleasing reflection occurred at seeing the warm
+interest which the situation of these two persons had excited in the
+village, the boy had been a prisoner and adopted from charity, yet the
+distress of the father proved that he felt for him the tenderest
+affection, the man was a person of no distinction, yet the whole village
+was full of anxiety for his safety and when they came to us, borrowed a
+sleigh to bring them home with ease, if they survived, or to carry their
+bodies if they had perished.
+
+Friday 11. We despatched three hunters to join the same number whom we
+had sent below about seven miles to hunt elk. Like that of yesterday the
+weather to-day was cold and clear, the thermometer standing at 38
+degrees below 0. Poscopsahe and Shotahawrora visited us, and past the
+night at the fort.
+
+Saturday 12. The weather continues very cold, the mercury at sunrise
+being 20 degrees below 0. Three of the hunters returned, having killed
+three elk.
+
+Sunday 13. We have a continuation of clear weather, and the cold has
+increased, the mercury having sunk to 34 degrees below 0. Nearly one
+half of the Mandan nation passed down the river to hunt for several
+days; in these excursions men, women and children, with their dogs, all
+leave the village together, and after discovering a spot convenient for
+the game, fix their tents; all the family bear their part in the labour,
+and the game is equally divided among the families of the tribe. When a
+single hunter returns from the chase with more than is necessary for his
+own immediate consumption, the neighbours are entitled by custom to a
+share of it: they do not however ask for it, but send a squaw, who
+without saying any thing, sits down by the door of the lodge till the
+master understands the hint, and gives her gratuitously a part for her
+family. Chaboneau who with one man had gone to some lodges of
+Minnetarees near the Turtle mountain, returned with their faces much
+frostbitten. They had been about ninety miles distant, and procured
+from the inhabitants some meat and grease, with which they loaded the
+horses. He informs us that the agent of the Hudson bay company at that
+place, had been endeavouring to make unfavourable impressions with
+regard to us on the mind of the great chief, and that the N.W. company
+intend building a fort there. The great chief had in consequence spoken
+slightly of the Americans, but said that if we would give him our great
+flag he would come and see us.
+
+Monday 14. The Mandans continue to pass down the river on their hunting
+party, and were joined by six of our men. One of those sent on Thursday
+returned, with information that one of his companions had his feet so
+badly frostbitten that he could not walk home. In their excursion they
+had killed a buffaloe, a wolf, two porcupines and a white hare. The
+weather was more moderate to-day, the mercury being at 16 degrees below
+0, and the wind from the S.E. we had however some snow, after which it
+remained cloudy.
+
+Tuesday 15. The morning is much warmer than yesterday, and the snow
+begins to melt, though the wind after being for some time from the S.E.
+suddenly shifted to N.W. Between twelve and three o'clock A.M. there was
+a total eclipse of the moon, from which we obtained a part of the
+observation necessary for ascertaining the longitude.
+
+We were visited by four of the most distinguished men of the
+Minnetarees, to whom we showed marked attentions, as we knew that they
+had been taught to entertain strong prejudices against us; these we
+succeeded so well in removing, that when in the morning,
+
+Wednesday 16, about thirty Mandans, among whom six were chiefs came to
+see us, the Minnetarees reproached them with their falsehoods, declaring
+that they were bad men and ought to hide themselves. They had told the
+Minnetarees that we would kill them if they came to the fort, yet on the
+contrary they had spent a night there and been treated with kindness by
+the whites, who had smoked with them and danced for their amusement.
+Kagohami visited us and brought us a little corn, and soon afterwards
+one of the first war chiefs of the Minnetarees came accompanied by his
+squaw, a handsome woman, whom he was desirous we should use during the
+night. He favoured us with a more acceptable present, a draft of the
+Missouri in his manner, and informed us of his intention to go to war in
+the spring against the Snake Indians; we advised him to reflect
+seriously before he committed the peace of his nation to the hazards of
+war; to look back on the numerous nations whom war has destroyed, that
+if he wished his nation to be happy he should cultivate peace and
+intercourse with all his neighbours, by which means they would procure
+more horses, increase in numbers, and that if he went to war he would
+displease his great father the president, and forfeit his protection. We
+added that we had spoken thus to all the tribes whom we had met, that
+they had all opened their ears, and that the president would compel
+those who did not voluntarily listen to his advice. Although a young man
+of only twenty-six years of age, this discourse seemed to strike him. He
+observed that if it would be displeasing to us he would not go to war,
+since he had horses enough, and that he would advise all the nation to
+remain at home, until we had seen the Snake Indians, and discovered
+whether their intentions were pacific. The party who went down with the
+horses for the man who was frostbitten returned, and we are glad to find
+his complaint not serious.
+
+Thursday 17. The day was very windy from the north; the morning clear
+and cold, the thermometer at sunrise being at 0: we had several Indians
+with us.
+
+Friday 18. The weather is fine and moderate. Messrs. Laroche and
+M'Kenzie, two of the N.W. company's traders, visited us with some of the
+Minnetarees. In the afternoon two of our hunters returned, having killed
+four wolves and a blaireau.
+
+Saturday 19. Another cloudy day. The two traders set out on their
+return, and we sent two men with the horses thirty miles below to the
+hunting camp.
+
+Sunday 20. The day fair and cold. A number of Indians visit us with corn
+to exchange for articles, and to pay for repairs to their household
+utensils.
+
+Monday 21. The weather was fine and moderate. The hunters all returned,
+having killed during their absence three elk, four deer, two porcupines,
+a fox and a hare.
+
+Tuesday 22. The cold having moderated and the day pleasant, we attempted
+to cut the boats out of the ice, but at the distance of eight inches
+came to water, under which the ice became three feet thick, so that we
+were obliged to desist.
+
+Wednesday 23. The cold weather returned, the mercury having sunk 2
+degrees below 0, and the snow fell four inches deep.
+
+Thursday 24. The day was colder than any we have had lately, the
+thermometer being at 12 degrees below 0. The hunters whom we sent out
+returned unsuccessful, and the rest were occupied in cutting wood to
+make charcoal.
+
+Friday 25. The thermometer was at 25 degrees below 0, the Wind from N.W.
+and the day fair, so that the men were employed in preparing coal, and
+cutting the boats out of the ice. A band of Assiniboins headed by their
+chief, called by the French, Son of the Little Calf, have arrived at the
+villages.
+
+Saturday 26. A fine warm day: a number of Indians dine with us: and one
+of our men is attacked with a violent pleurisy.
+
+Sunday 27. Another warm and pleasant day: we again attempted to get the
+boat out of the ice. The man who has the pleurisy was blooded and
+sweated, and we were forced to take off the toes of the young Indian who
+was frostbitten some time since. Our interpreter returned from the
+villages, bringing with him three of Mr. Laroche's horses which he had
+sent in order to keep them out of the way of the Assiniboins, who are
+very much disposed to steal, and who have just returned to their camp.
+
+Monday 28. The weather to-day is clear and cold: we are obliged to
+abandon the plan of cutting the boat through the ice, and therefore made
+another attempt the next day,
+
+Tuesday 29, by heating a quantity of stones so as to warm the water in
+the boat, and thaw the surrounding ice: but in this too we were
+disappointed, as all the stones on being put into the fire cracked into
+pieces: the weather warm and pleasant: the man with the pleurisy is
+recovering.
+
+Wednesday 30. The morning was fair, but afterwards became cloudy. Mr.
+Laroche the trader from the northwest company paid us a visit, in hopes
+of being able to accompany us on our journey westward, but this proposal
+we thought it best to decline.
+
+Thursday 31. It snowed last night, and the morning is cold and
+disagreeable, with a high wind from the northwest: we sent five hunters
+down the river. Another man is taken with the pleurisy.
+
+Friday, February 1. A cold windy day: our hunters returned having killed
+only one deer. One of the Minnetaree war chiefs, a young man named
+Maubuksheahokeah or Seeing Snake, came to see us and procure a war
+hatchet: he also requested that we would suffer him to go to war against
+the Sioux and Ricaras who had killed a Mandan some time ago: this we
+refused for reasons which we explained to him. He acknowledged that we
+were right, and promised to open his ears to our counsels.
+
+Saturday 2. The day is fine: another deer was killed. Mr. Laroche who
+has been very anxious to go with us left the fort to-day, and one of the
+squaws of the Minnetaree interpreter is taken ill.
+
+Sunday 3. The weather is again pleasant: disappointed in all our efforts
+to get the boats free, we occupied ourselves in making iron spikes so as
+to prize them up by means of long poles.
+
+Monday 4. The morning fair and cold, the mercury at sunrise being 18
+degrees below 0, and the wind from the northwest. The stock of meat
+which we had procured in November and December being now nearly
+exhausted, it became necessary to renew our supply; captain Clarke
+therefore took eighteen men, and with two sleighs and three horses
+descended the river for the purpose of hunting, as the buffaloe has
+disappeared from our neighbourhood, and the Indians are themselves
+suffering for want of meat. Two deer were killed to-day but they were
+very lean.
+
+Tuesday 5. A pleasant fair morning with the wind from northwest: a
+number of the Indians come with corn for the blacksmith, who being now
+provided with coal has become one of our greatest resources for
+procuring grain. They seem particularly attached to a battle axe, of a
+very inconvenient figure: it is made wholly of iron, the blade extremely
+thin, and from seven to nine inches long; it is sharp at the point and
+five or six inches on each side, whence they converge towards the eye,
+which is circular and about an inch in diameter, the blade itself being
+not more than an inch wide, the handle is straight, and twelve or
+fifteen inches long; the whole weighing about a pound. By way of
+ornament, the blade is perforated with several circular holes. The
+length of the blade compared with the shortness of the handle render it
+a weapon of very little strength, particularly as it is always used on
+horseback: there is still however another form which is even worse, the
+same sort of handle being fixed to a blade resembling an espontoon.
+
+Wednesday, February 6. The morning was fair and pleasant, the wind N.W.
+A number of Indian chiefs visited us and withdrew after we had smoked
+with them contrary to their custom, for after being once introduced into
+our apartment they are fond of lounging about during the remainder of
+the day. One of the men killed three antelopes. Our blacksmith has his
+time completely occupied, so great is the demand for utensils of
+different kinds. The Indians are particularly fond of sheet iron, out of
+which they form points for arrows and instruments for scraping hides,
+and when the blacksmith cut up an old cambouse of that metal, we
+obtained for every piece of four inches square seven or eight gallons of
+corn from the Indians, who were delighted at the exchange.
+
+Thursday 7. The morning was fair and much warmer than for some days, the
+thermometer being at 18 degrees above 0, and the wind from the S.E. A
+number of Indians continue to visit us; but learning that the
+interpreter's squaws had been accustomed to unbar the gate during the
+night, we ordered a lock put on it, and that no Indian should remain in
+the fort all night, nor any person admitted during the hours when the
+gate is closed, that is from sunset to sunrise.
+
+Friday 8. A fair pleasant morning, with S.E. winds. Pocopsahe came down
+to the fort with a bow, and apologized for his not having finished a
+shield which he had promised captain Lewis, and which the weather had
+prevented him from completing. This chief possesses more firmness,
+intelligence, and integrity, than any Indian of this country, and he
+might be rendered highly serviceable in our attempts to civilize the
+nation. He mentioned that the Mandans are very much in want of meat, and
+that he himself had not tasted any for several days. To this distress
+they are often reduced by their own improvidence, or by their unhappy
+situation. Their principal article of food is buffaloe-meat, their corn,
+beans, and other grain being reserved for summer, or as a last resource
+against what they constantly dread, an attack from the Sioux, who drive
+off the game and confine them to their villages. The same fear too
+prevents their going out to hunt in small parties to relieve their
+occasional wants, so that the buffaloe is generally obtained in large
+quantities and wasted by carelessness.
+
+Saturday 9. The morning was fair and pleasant, the wind from the S.E.
+Mr. M'Kenzie from the N.W. company establishment visited us.
+
+Sunday 10. A slight snow fell in the course of the night, the morning
+was cloudy, and the northwest wind blew so high that although the
+thermometer was 18 degrees above 0, the day was cooler than yesterday,
+when it was only 10 degrees above the same point. Mr. M'Kenzie left us,
+and Chaboneau returned with information that our horses loaded with meat
+were below, but could not cross the ice not being shod.
+
+Monday 11. We sent down a party with sleds, to relieve the horses from
+their loads; the weather fair and cold, with a N.W. wind. About five
+o'clock one of the wives of Chaboneau was delivered of a boy; this being
+her first child she was suffering considerable, when Mr. Jessaume told
+captain Lewis that he had frequently administered to persons in her
+situation, a small dose of the rattle of the rattlesnake which had never
+failed to hasten the delivery. Having some of the rattle, captain Lewis
+gave it to Mr. Jessaume who crumbled two of the rings of it between his
+fingers, and mixing it with a small quantity of water gave it to her.
+What effect it may really have had it might be difficult to determine,
+but captain Lewis was informed that she had not taken it more than ten
+minutes before the delivery took place.
+
+Tuesday 12. The morning is fair though cold, the mercury being 14
+degrees below the wind from the S.E. About four o'clock the horses were
+brought in much fatigued; on giving them meal bran moistened with water
+they would not eat it, but preferred the bark of the cottonwood, which
+as is already observed forms their principal food during the winter. The
+horses of the Mandans are so often stolen by the Sioux, Ricaras, and
+Assiniboins, that the invariable rule now is to put the horses every
+night in the same lodge with the family. In the summer they ramble in
+the plains in the vicinity of the camp, and feed on the grass, but
+during cold weather the squaws cut down the cottonwood trees as they are
+wanted, and the horses feed on the boughs and bark of the tender
+branches, which are also brought into the lodges at night and placed
+near them. These animals are very severely treated; for whole days they
+are pursuing the buffaloe, or burdened with the fruits of the chase,
+during which they scarcely ever taste food, and at night return to a
+scanty allowance of wood; yet the spirit of this valuable animal
+sustains him through all these difficulties, and he is rarely deficient
+either in flesh or vigour.
+
+Wednesday 13. The morning was cloudy, the thermometer at 2 degrees below
+0, the wind from the southeast. Captain Clarke returned last evening
+with all his hunting party: during their excursion they had killed forty
+deer, three buffaloe, and sixteen elk; but most of the game was too lean
+for use, and the wolves, who regard whatever lies out at night as their
+own, had appropriated a large part of it: when he left the fort on the
+4th instant, he descended on the ice twenty-two miles to New Mandan
+island, near some of their old villages, and encamped, having killed
+nothing, and therefore without food for the night.
+
+Early on the 5th, the hunters went out and killed two buffaloe and a
+deer, but the last only could be used, the others being too lean. After
+breakfast they proceeded down to an Indian lodge and hunted during the
+day: the next morning, 6th, they encamped forty-four miles from the fort
+on a sand point near the mouth of a creek on the southwest side, which
+they call Hunting creek, and during this and the following day hunted
+through all the adjoining plains, with much success, having killed a
+number of deer and elk. On the 8th, the best of the meat was sent with
+the horses to the fort, and such parts of the remainder as were fit for
+use were brought to a point of the river three miles below, and after
+the bones were taken out, secured in pens built of logs, so as to keep
+off the wolves, ravens and magpies, who are very numerous and constantly
+disappoint the hunter of his prey: they then went to the low grounds
+near the Chisshetaw river where they encamped, but saw nothing except
+some wolves on the hills, and a number of buffaloe too poor to be worth
+hunting. The next morning 9th, as there was no game and it would have
+been inconvenient to send it back sixty miles to the fort, they returned
+up the river, and for three days hunted along the banks and plains, and
+reached the fort in the evening of the twelfth much fatigued, having
+walked thirty miles that day on the ice and through the snow in many
+places knee deep, the moccasins too being nearly worn out: the only game
+which they saw besides what is mentioned, was some growse on the
+sandbars in the river.
+
+Thursday 14. Last night the snow fell three inches deep; the day was,
+however, fine. Four men were despatched with sleds and three horses to
+bring up the meat which had been collected by the hunters. They returned
+however, with intelligence that about twenty-one miles below the fort a
+party of upwards of one hundred men, whom they supposed to be Sioux,
+rushed on them, cut the traces of the sleds, and carried off two of the
+horses, the third being given up by intercession of an Indian who seemed
+to possess some authority over them; they also took away two of the
+men's knifes, and a tomahawk, which last however they returned. We sent
+up to the Mandans to inform them of it, and to know whether any of them
+would join a party which intended to pursue the robbers in the morning.
+About twelve o'clock two of their chiefs came down and said that all
+their young men were out hunting, and that there were few guns in the
+village. Several Indians however, armed some with bows and arrows, some
+with spears and battle-axes, and two with fusils, accompanied captain
+Lewis, who set out,
+
+Friday 15, at sunrise with twenty-four men. The morning was fine and
+cool, the thermometer being at 16 degrees below 0. In the course of the
+day one of the Mandan chiefs returned from captain Lewis's party, his
+eye-sight having become so bad that he could not proceed. At this season
+of the year the reflexion from the ice and snow is so intense as to
+occasion almost total blindness. This complaint is very common, and the
+general remedy is to sweat the part affected by holding the face over a
+hot stone, and receiving the fumes from snow thrown on it. A large red
+fox was killed to-day.
+
+Saturday 16. The morning was warm, mercury at 32 degrees above 0, the
+weather cloudy: several of the Indians who went with captain Lewis
+returned, as did also one of our men, whose feet had been frostbitten.
+
+Sunday 17. The weather continued as yesterday, though in the afternoon
+it became fair. Shotawhorora and his son came to see us, with about
+thirty pounds of dried buffaloe meat and some tallow.
+
+Monday 18. The morning was cloudy with some snow, but in the latter part
+of the day it cleared up. Mr. M'Kenzie who had spent yesterday at the
+fort now left us. Our stock of meat is exhausted, so that we must
+confine ourselves to vegetable diet, at least till the return of the
+party: for this, however, we are at no loss, since both on this and the
+following day,
+
+Tuesday 19, our blacksmith got large quantities of corn from the Indians
+who came in great numbers to see us. The weather was fair and warm, the
+wind from the south.
+
+Wednesday, 20th. The day was delightfully fine; the mercury being at
+sunrise 2 degrees and in the course of the day 22 degrees above 0, the
+wind southerly. Kagohami came down to see us early: his village is
+afflicted by the death of one of their eldest men, who from his account
+to us must have seen one hundred and twenty winters. Just as he was
+dying, he requested his grandchildren to dress him in his best robe when
+he was dead, and then carry him on a hill and seat him on a stone, with
+his face down the river towards their old villages, that he might go
+straight to his brother who had passed before him to the ancient village
+under ground. We have seen a number of Mandans who have lived to a great
+age; chiefly however the men, whose robust exercises fortify the body,
+while the laborious occupations of the women shorten their existence.
+
+Thursday 21. We had a continuation of the same pleasant weather. Oheenaw
+and Shahaka came down to see us, and mentioned that several of their
+countrymen had gone to consult their medicine stone as to the prospects
+of the following year. This medicine stone is the great oracle of the
+Mandans, and whatever it announces is believed with implicit confidence.
+Every spring, and on some occasions during the summer, a deputation
+visits the sacred spot, where there is a thick porous stone twenty-feet
+in circumference, with a smooth surface. Having reached the place the
+ceremony of smoking to it is performed by the deputies, who alternately
+take a whiff themselves and then present the pipe to the stone; after
+this they retire to an adjoining wood for the night, during which it may
+be safely presumed that all the embassy do not sleep; and in the morning
+they read the destinies of the nation in the white marks on the stone,
+which those who made them are at no loss to decypher. The Minnetarees
+have a stone of a similar kind, which has the same qualities and the
+same influence over the nation. Captain Lewis returned from his
+excursion in pursuit of the Indians. On reaching the place where the
+Sioux had stolen our horses, they found only one sled, and several pair
+of moccasins which were recognised to be those of the Sioux. The party
+then followed the Indian tracks till they reached two old lodges where
+they slept, and the next morning pursued the course of the river till
+they reached some Indian camps, where captain Clarke passed the night
+some time ago, and which the Sioux had now set on fire, leaving a little
+corn near the place in order to induce a belief that they were Ricaras.
+From this point the Sioux tracks left the river abruptly and crossed
+into the plains; but perceiving that there was no chance of overtaking
+them, captain Lewis went down to the pen where captain Clarke had left
+some meat, which he found untouched by the Indians, and then hunted in
+the low grounds on the river, till he returned with about three thousand
+pounds of meat, some drawn in a sled by fifteen of the men, and the rest
+on horseback; having killed thirty-six deer, fourteen elk, and one wolf.
+
+Friday, 22nd. The morning was cloudy and a little snow fell, but in the
+afternoon the weather became fair. We were visited by a number of
+Indians, among whom was Shotawhorora, a chief of much consideration
+among the Mandan, although by birth a Ricara.
+
+Saturday, 23d. The day is warm and pleasant. Having worked industriously
+yesterday and all this morning we were enabled to disengage one of the
+periogues and haul it on shore, and also nearly to cut out the second.
+The father of the boy whose foot had been so badly frozen, and whom we
+had now cured, came to-day and carried him home in a sleigh.
+
+Sunday, 24th. The weather is again fine. We succeeded in loosening the
+second periogue and barge, though we found a leak in the latter. The
+whole of the next day,
+
+Monday, 25th, we were occupied in drawing up the boats on the bank: the
+smallest one we carried there with no difficulty, but the barge was too
+heavy for our elk-skin ropes which constantly broke. We were visited by
+Orupsehara, or Black Moccasin, and several other chiefs, who brought us
+presents of meat on the backs of their squaws, and one of the
+Minnetarees requested and obtained permission for himself and his two
+wives to remain all night in the fort. The day was exceedingly pleasant.
+
+Tuesday 26. The weather is again fine. By great labour during the day we
+got all the boats on the bank by sunset, an operation which attracted a
+great number of Indians to the fort.
+
+Wednesday 27. The weather continues fine. All of us employed in
+preparing tools to build boats for our voyage, as we find that small
+periogues will be much more convenient than the barge in ascending the
+Missouri.
+
+Thursday 28. The day is clear and pleasant. Sixteen men were sent out to
+examine the country for trees suitable for boats, and were successful in
+finding them. Two of the N.W. company traders arrived with letters; they
+had likewise a root which is used for the cure of persons bitten by mad
+dogs, snakes, and other venomous animals: it is found on high grounds
+and the sides of hills, and the mode of using it is to scarify the
+wound, and apply to it an inch or more of the chewed or pounded root,
+which is to be renewed twice a day; the patient must not however chew or
+swallow any of the root, as an inward application might be rather
+injurious than beneficial.
+
+Mr. Gravelines with two Frenchmen and two Indians arrived from the
+Ricara nation, with letters from Mr. Anthony Tabeau. This last gentleman
+informs us that the Ricaras express their determination to follow our
+advice, and to remain at peace with the Mandans and Minnetarees, whom
+they are desirous of visiting; they also wish to know whether these
+nations would permit the Ricaras to settle near them, and form a league
+against their common enemies the Sioux. On mentioning this to the
+Mandans they agreed to it, observing that they always desired to
+cultivate friendship with the Ricaras, and that the Ahnahaways and
+Minnetarees have the same friendly views.
+
+Mr. Gravelines states that the band of Tetons whom we had seen was well
+disposed to us, owing to the influence of their chief the Black
+Buffaloe; but that the three upper bands of Tetons, with the Sisatoons,
+and the Yanktons of the north, mean soon to attack the Indians in this
+quarter, with a resolution to put to death every white man they
+encounter. Moreover, that Mr. Cameron of St. Peter's has armed the Sioux
+against the Chippeways, who have lately put to death three of his men.
+The men who had stolen our horses we found to be all Sioux, who after
+committing the outrage went to the Ricara villages, where they said that
+they had hesitated about killing our men who were with the horses, but
+that in future they would put to death any of us they could, as we were
+bad medicines and deserved to be killed. The Ricaras were displeased at
+their conduct and refused to give them any thing to eat, which is
+deemed the greatest act of hostility short of actual violence.
+
+Friday, March 1. The day is fine, and the whole party is engaged, some
+in making ropes and periogues, others in burning coal, and making battle
+axes to sell for corn.
+
+Saturday 2. Mr. Laroche one of the N.W. company's traders has just
+arrived with merchandise from the British establishments on the
+Assiniboin. The day is fine, and the river begins to break up in some
+places, the mercury being between 28 degrees and 36 degrees above 0, and
+the wind from the N.E. We were visited by several Indians.
+
+Sunday 3. The weather pleasant, the wind from the E. with clouds; in the
+afternoon the clouds disappeared and the wind came from the N.W. The men
+are all employed in preparing the boats; we are visited by Poscapsahe
+and several other Indians with corn. A flock of ducks passed up the
+river to-day.
+
+Monday 4. A cloudy morning with N.W. wind, the latter part of the day
+clear. We had again some Indian visitors with a small present of meat.
+The Assiniboins, who a few days since visited the Mandans, returned, and
+attempted to take horses from the Minnetarees, who fired on them; a
+circumstance which may occasion some disturbance between the two
+nations.
+
+Tuesday 5. About four o'clock in the morning there was a slight fall of
+snow, but the day became clear and pleasant with the mercury 40 degrees
+above 0. We sent down an Indian and a Frenchman to the Ricara villages
+with a letter to Mr. Tabeau.
+
+Wednesday 6. The day was cloudy and smoky in consequence of the burning
+of the plains by the Minnetarees; they have set all the neighbouring
+country on fire in order to obtain an early crop of grass which may
+answer for the consumption of their horses, and also as an inducement
+for the buffaloe and other game to visit it. The horses stolen two days
+ago by the Assiniboins have been returned to the Minnetarees. Ohhaw
+second chief of the lower Minnetaree village came to see us. The river
+rose a little and overran the ice, so as to render the crossing
+difficult.
+
+Thursday, 7th. The day was somewhat cloudy, and colder than usual; the
+wind from the northeast. Shotawhorora visited us with a sick child, to
+whom some medicine was administered. There were also other Indians who
+brought corn and dried buffaloe meat in exchange for blacksmith's work.
+
+Friday 8. The day cold and fair with a high easterly wind: we were
+visited by two Indians who gave us an account of the country and people
+near the Rocky mountains where they had been.
+
+Saturday 9. The morning cloudy and cool, the wind from the north. The
+grand chief of the Minnetarees, who is called by the French Le Borgne,
+from his having but one eye, came down for the first time to the fort.
+He was received with much attention, two guns were fired in honour of
+his arrival, the curiosities were exhibited to him, and as he said that
+he had not received the presents which we had sent to him on his
+arrival, we again gave him a flag, a medal, shirt, armbraces and the
+usual presents on such occasions, with all which he was much pleased. In
+the course of the conversation, the chief observed that some foolish
+young men of his nation had told him there was a person among us who was
+quite black, and he wished to know if it could be true. We assured him
+that it was true, and sent for York: the Borgne was very much surprised
+at his appearance, examined him closely, and spit on his finger and
+rubbed the skin in order to wash off the paint; nor was it until the
+negro uncovered his head, and showed his short hair, that the Borgne
+could be persuaded that he was not a painted white man.
+
+Sunday 10. A cold windy day. Tetuckopinreha, chief of the Ahnahaways,
+and the Minnetaree chief Ompsehara, passed the day with us, and the
+former remained during the night. We had occasion to see an instance of
+the summary justice of the Indians: a young Minnetaree had carried off
+the daughter of Cagonomokshe, the Raven Man, second chief of the upper
+village of the Mandans; the father went to the village and found his
+daughter, whom he brought home, and took with him a horse belonging to
+the offender: this reprisal satisfied the vengeance of the father and of
+the nation, as the young man would not dare to reclaim his horse, which
+from that time became the property of the injured party. The stealing of
+young women is one of the most common offenses against the police of the
+village, and the punishment of it always measured by the power or the
+passions of the kindred of the female. A voluntary elopement is of
+course more rigorously chastised. One of the wives of the Borgne
+deserted him in favour of a man who had been her lover before the
+marriage, and who after some time left her, and she was obliged to
+return to her father's house. As soon as he heard it the Borgne walked
+there and found her sitting near the fire: without noticing his wife, he
+began to smoke with the father; when they were joined by the old men of
+the village, who knowing his temper had followed in hopes of appeasing
+him. He continued to smoke quietly with them, till rising to return, he
+took his wife by the hair, led her as far as the door, and with a single
+stroke of his tomahawk put her to death before her father's eyes: then
+turning fiercely upon the spectators, he said that if any of her
+relations wished to avenge her, they might always find him at his lodge;
+but the fate of the woman had not sufficient interest to excite the
+vengeance of the family. The caprice or the generosity of the same chief
+gave a very different result to a similar incident which occurred some
+time afterwards. Another of his wives eloped with a young man, who not
+being able to support her as she wished they both returned to the
+village, and she presented herself before the husband, supplicating his
+pardon for her conduct: the Borgne sent for the lover: at the moment
+when the youth expected that he would be put to death, the chief mildly
+asked them if they still preserved their affection for each other; and
+on their declaring that want, and not a change of affection had induced
+them to return, he gave up his wife to her lover, with the liberal
+present of three horses, and restored them both to his favour.
+
+Monday 11. The weather was cloudy in the morning and a little snow fell,
+the wind then shifted from southeast to northwest and the day became
+fair. It snowed again in the evening, but the next day,
+
+Tuesday 12, was fair with the wind from the northwest.
+
+Wednesday 13. We had a fine day, and a southwest wind. Mr. M'Kenzie came
+to see us, as did also many Indians who are so anxious for battle-axes
+that our smiths have not a moment's leisure, and procure us an abundance
+of corn. The river rose a little to-day, and so continued.
+
+Thursday 14. The wind being from the west, and the day fine, the whole
+party were employed in building boats and in shelling corn.
+
+Friday 15. The day is clear, pleasant and warm. We take advantage of the
+fine weather to hang all our Indian presents and other articles out to
+dry before our departure.
+
+Saturday 16. The weather is cloudy, the wind from the southeast. A Mr.
+Garrow, a Frenchman who has resided a long time among the Ricaras and
+Mandans, explained to us the mode in which they make their large beads,
+an art which they are said to have derived from some prisoners of the
+Snake Indian nation, and the knowledge of which is a secret even now
+confined to a few among the Mandans and Ricaras: the process is as
+follows: glass of different colours is first pounded fine and washed,
+till each kind, which is kept separate, ceases to stain the water thrown
+over it: some well seasoned clay, mixed with a sufficient quantity of
+sand to prevent its becoming very hard when exposed to heat, and reduced
+by water to the consistency of dough, is then rolled on the palm of the
+hand, till it becomes of the thickness wanted for the hole in the bead;
+these sticks of clay are placed upright, each on a little pedestal or
+ball of the same material about an ounce in weight, and distributed over
+a small earthen platter, which is laid on the fire for a few minutes,
+when they are taken off to cool: with a little paddle or shovel three or
+four inches long and sharpened at the end of the handle, the wet pounded
+glass is placed in the palm of the hand: the beads are made of an oblong
+form wrapped in a cylindrical form round the stick of clay which is laid
+crosswise over it, and gently rolled backwards and forwards till it
+becomes perfectly smooth. If it be desired to introduce any other
+colour, the surface of the bead is perforated with the pointed end of
+the paddle and the cavity filled with pounded glass of that colour: the
+sticks with the string of beads are then replaced on their pedestals,
+and the platter deposited on burning coals or hot embers: over the
+platter an earthern pot containing about three gallons, with a mouth
+large enough to cover the platter, is reversed, being completely closed
+except a small aperture at the top, through which are watched the bead:
+a quantity of old dried wood formed into a sort of dough or paste is
+placed round the pot so as almost to cover it, and afterwards set on
+fire: the manufacturer then looks through the small hole in the pot,
+till he sees the beads assume a deep red colour, to which succeeds a
+paler or whitish red, or they become pointed at the upper extremity; on
+which the fire is removed and the pot suffered to cool gradually: at
+length it is removed, the beads taken out, the clay in the hollow of
+them picked out with an awl or needle, and it is then fit for use. The
+beads thus formed are in great demand among the Indians, and used as
+pendants to their ears and hair, and are sometimes worn round the neck.
+
+Sunday 17. A windy but clear and pleasant day, the river rising a little
+and open in several places. Our Minnetaree interpreter Chaboneau, whom
+we intended taking with us to the Pacific, had some days ago been worked
+upon by the British traders, and appeared unwilling to accompany us,
+except on certain terms; such as his not being subject to our orders,
+and do duty, or to return whenever he chose. As we saw clearly the
+source of his hesitation, and knew that it was intended as an obstacle
+to our views, we told him that the terms were inadmissible, and that we
+could dispense with his services: he had accordingly left us with some
+displeasure. Since then he had made an advance towards joining us, which
+we showed no anxiety to meet; but this morning he sent an apology for
+his improper conduct, and agreed to go with us and perform the same
+duties as the rest of the corps; we therefore took him again into our
+service.
+
+Monday 18. The weather was cold and cloudy, the wind from the north. We
+were engaged in packing up the goods into eight divisions, so as to
+preserve a portion of each in case of accident. We hear that the Sioux
+have lately attacked a party of Assiniboins and Knistenaux, near the
+Assiniboin river, and killed fifty of them.
+
+Tuesday 19. Some snow fell last night, and this morning was cold, windy,
+and cloudy. Shahaka and Kagohami came down to see us, as did another
+Indian with a sick child, to whom we gave some medicine. There appears
+to be an approaching war, as two parties have already gone from the
+Minnetarees, and a third is preparing.
+
+Wednesday 20. The morning was cold and cloudy, the wind high from the
+north, but the afternoon was pleasant. The canoes being finished, four
+of them were carried down to the river, at the distance of a mile and a
+half from where they were constructed.
+
+Thursday 20. The remaining periogues were hauled to the same place, and
+all the men except three, who were left to watch them returned to the
+fort. On his way down, which was about six miles, captain Clarke passed
+along the points of the high hills, where he saw large quantities of
+pumicestone on the foot, sides and tops of the hills, which had every
+appearance of having been at some period on fire. He collected specimens
+of the stone itself, the pumicestone, and the hard earth; and on being
+put into the furnace the hard earth melted and glazed, the pumicestone
+melted, and the hardstone became a pumicestone glazed.
+
+
+
+
+                               CHAPTER VII.
+
+     Indian method of attacking the buffaloe on the ice--An enumeration
+     of the presents sent to the president of the United States--The
+     party are visited by a Ricara chief--They leave their encampment,
+     and proceed on their journey--description of the Little
+     Missouri--Some account of the Assiniboins--Their mode of burying
+     the dead--Whiteearth river described--Great quantity of salt
+     discovered on its banks--Yellowstone river described--A particular
+     account of the country at the confluence of the Yellowstone and
+     Missouri--Description of the Missouri, the surrounding country, and
+     of the rivers, creeks, islands, &c.
+
+
+Friday 22. This was a clear pleasant day, with the wind from the S.S.W.
+We were visited by the second chief of the Minnetarees, to whom we gave
+a medal and some presents, accompanied by a speech. Mr. M'Kenzie and Mr.
+Laroche also came to see us. They all took their leave next day.
+
+Saturday 23. Soon after their departure, a brother of the Borgne with
+other Indians came to the fort. The weather was fine, but in the evening
+we had the first rain that has fallen during the winter.
+
+Sunday 24. The morning cloudy, but the afternoon fair, the wind from the
+N.E. We are employed in preparing for our journey. This evening swans
+and wild geese flew towards the N.E.
+
+Monday 25. A fine day, the wind S.W. The river rose nine inches, and the
+ice began breaking away in several places, so as to endanger our canoes
+which we are hauling down to the fort.
+
+Tuesday 26. The river rose only half an inch, and being choaked up with
+ice near the fort, did not begin to run till towards evening. This day
+is clear and pleasant.
+
+Wednesday 27. The wind is still high from the S.W.: the ice which is
+ocasionally stopped for a few hours is then thrown over shallow
+sandbars when the river runs. We had all our canoes brought down, and
+were obliged to cauk and pitch very attentively the cracks so common in
+cottonwood.
+
+Thursday 28. The day is fair. Some obstacle above has prevented the ice
+from running. Our canoes are now nearly ready, and we expect to set out
+as soon as the river is sufficiently clear to permit us to pass.
+
+Friday 29. The weather clear, and the wind from N.W. The obstruction
+above gave way this morning, and the ice came down in great quantities;
+the river having fallen eleven inches in the course of the last
+twenty-four hours. We have had few Indians at the fort for the last
+three or four days, as they are now busy in catching the floating
+buffaloe. Every spring as the river is breaking up the surrounding
+plains are set on fire, and the buffaloe tempted to cross the river in
+search of the fresh grass which immediately succeeds to the burning: on
+their way they are often insulated on a large cake or mass of ice, which
+floats down the river: the Indians now select the most favourable points
+for attack, and as the buffaloe approaches dart with astonishing agility
+across the trembling ice, sometimes pressing lightly a cake of not more
+than two feet square: the animal is of course unsteady, and his
+footsteps insecure on this new element, so that he can make but little
+resistance, and the hunter, who has given him his death wound, paddles
+his icy boat to the shore and secures his prey.
+
+Saturday 30. The day was clear and pleasant, the wind N.W. and the ice
+running in great quantities. All our Indian presents were again exposed
+to the air, and the barge made ready to descend the Missouri.
+
+Monday 31. Early this morning it rained, and the weather continued
+cloudy during the day; the river rose nine inches, the ice not running
+so much as yesterday. Several flocks of geese and ducks fly up the
+river.
+
+Monday, April 1, 1805. This morning there was a thunder storm,
+accompanied with large hail, to which succeeded rain for about half an
+hour. We availed ourselves of this interval to get all the boats in the
+water. At four o'clock P.M. it began to rain a second time, and
+continued till twelve at night. With the exception of a few drops at two
+or three different times, this is the first rain we have had since the
+15th of October last.
+
+Tuesday 2. The wind was high last night and this morning from N.W. and
+the weather continued cloudy. The Mandans killed yesterday twenty-one
+elk, about fifteen miles below, but they were so poor as to be scarcely
+fit for use.
+
+Wednesday 3. The weather is pleasant, though there was a white frost and
+some ice on the edge of the water. We were all engaged in packing up our
+baggage and merchandize.
+
+Thursday 4. The day is clear and pleasant, though the wind is high from
+N.W. We now packed up in different boxes a variety of articles for the
+president, which we shall send in the barge. They consisted of a stuffed
+male and female antelope with their skeletons, a weasel, three squirrels
+from the Rocky mountains, the skeleton of the prairie wolf, those of the
+white and gray hare, a male and female blaireau, or burrowing dog of the
+prairie, with a skeleton of the female, two burrowing squirrels, a white
+weasel, and the skin of the louservia, the horns of the mountain ram, or
+big-horn, a pair of large elk horns, the horns and tail of the
+black-tailed deer, and a variety of skins, such as those of the red fox,
+white hare, martin, yellow bear obtained from the Sioux; also, a number
+of articles of Indian dress, among which was a buffaloe robe,
+representing a battle fought about eight years since between the Sioux
+and Ricaras against the Mandans and Minnetarees, in which the combatants
+are represented on horseback. It has of late years excited much
+discussion to ascertain the period when the art of painting was first
+discovered: how hopeless all researches of this kind are, is evident
+from the foregoing fact. It is indebted for its origin to one of the
+strongest passions of the human heart; a wish to preserve the features
+of a departed friend, or the memory of some glorious exploit: this
+inherits equally the bosoms of all men either civilized or savage. Such
+sketches, rude and imperfect as they are, delineate the predominant
+character of the savage nations. If they are peaceable and inoffensive,
+the drawings usually consist of local scenery, and their favourite
+diversions. If the band are rude and ferocious, we observe tomahawks,
+scalpingknives, bows, arrows, and all the engines of destruction. A
+Mandan bow and quiver of arrows; also some Ricara tobacco-seed and an
+ear of Mandan corn; to these were added a box of plants, another of
+insects, and three cases containing a burrowing squirrel; a prairie hen,
+and four magpies, all alive.
+
+Friday, 5th. Fair and pleasant, but the wind high from the northwest: we
+were visited by a number of Mandans, and are occupied in loading our
+boats in order to proceed on our journey.
+
+Saturday, 6th. Another fine day with a gentle breeze from the south. The
+Mandans continue to come to the fort; and in the course of the day
+informed us of the arrival of a party of Ricaras on the other side of
+the river. We sent our interpreter to inquire into their reason for
+coming; and in the morning,
+
+Sunday, 7th, he returned with a Ricara chief and three of his nation.
+The chief, whose name is Kagohweto, or Brave Raven, brought a letter
+from Mr. Tabeau, mentioning the wish of the grand chiefs of the Ricaras
+to visit the president, and requesting permission for himself and four
+men to join our boat when it descends; to which we consented, as it will
+then be manned with fifteen hands and be able to defend itself against
+the Sioux. After presenting the letter, he told us that he was sent with
+ten warriors by his nation to arrange their settling near the Mandans
+and Minnetarees, whom they wished to join; that he considered all the
+neighboring nations friendly except the Sioux, whose persecution they
+would no longer withstand, and whom they hoped to repel by uniting with
+the tribes in this quarter: he added that the Ricaras intended to follow
+our advice and live in peace with all nations, and requested that we
+would speak in their favour to the Assiniboin Indians. This we willingly
+promised to do, and assured them that their great father would protect
+them and no longer suffer the Sioux to have good guns, or to injure his
+dutiful children. We then gave him a small medal, a certificate of his
+good conduct, a carrot of tobacco, and some wampum, with which he
+departed for the Mandan village well satisfied with his reception.
+Having made all our arrangements, we left the fort about five o'clock in
+the afternoon. The party now consisted of thirty-two persons. Besides
+ourselves were serjeants John Ordway, Nathaniel Pryor, and Patrick Gass:
+the privates were William Bratton, John Colter, John Collins, Peter
+Cruzatte, Robert Frazier, Reuben Fields, Joseph Fields, George Gibson,
+Silas Goodrich, Hugh Hall, Thomas P. Howard, Baptiste Lapage, Francis
+Labiche, Hugh M'Neal, John Potts, John Shields, George Shannon, John B.
+Thompson, William Werner, Alexander Willard, Richard Windsor, Joseph
+Whitehouse, Peter Wiser, and captain Clarke's black servant York. The
+two interpreters, were George Drewyer and Toussaint Chaboneau. The wife
+of Chaboneau also accompanied us with her young child, and we hope may
+be useful as an interpreter among the Snake Indians. She was herself one
+of that tribe, but having been taken in war by the Minnetarees, by whom
+she was sold as a slave to Chaboneau, who brought her up and afterwards
+married her. One of the Mandans likewise embarked with us, in order to
+go to the Snake Indians and obtain a peace with them for his countrymen.
+All this party with the baggage was stowed in six small canoes and two
+large periogues. We left the fort with fair pleasant weather though the
+northwest wind was high, and after making about four miles encamped on
+the north side of the Missouri, nearly opposite the first Mandan
+village. At the same time that we took our departure, our barge manned
+with seven soldiers, two Frenchmen, and Mr. Gravelines as pilot, sailed
+for the United States loaded with our presents and despatches.
+
+Monday, 8th. The day was clear and cool, the wind from the northwest, so
+that we travelled slowly. After breakfasting at the second Mandan
+village we passed the Mahaha at the mouth of Knife river, a handsome
+stream about eighty yards wide. Beyond this we reached the island which
+captain Clarke had visited on the 30th October. This island has timber
+as well as the lowlands on the north, but its distance from the water
+had prevented our encamping there during the winter. From the head of
+this island we made three and a half miles to a point of wood on the
+north, passing a high bluff on the south, and having come about fourteen
+miles. In the course of the day one of our boats filled and was near
+sinking; we however saved her with the loss of a little biscuit and
+powder.
+
+Tuesday, April 9. We set off as soon as it was light, and proceeded five
+miles to breakfast, passing a low ground on the south, covered with
+groves of cottonwood timber. At the distance of six miles, we reached on
+the north a hunting camp of Minnetarees consisting of thirty lodges, and
+built in the usual form of earth and timber. Two miles and a quarter
+farther, comes in on the same side Miry creek, a small stream about ten
+yards wide, which, rising in some lakes near the Mouse river, passes
+through beautiful level fertile plains without timber in a direction
+nearly southwest; the banks near its entrance being steep, and rugged on
+both sides of the Missouri. Three miles above this creek we came to a
+hunting party of Minnetarees, who had prepared a park or inclosure and
+were waiting the return of the antelope: this animal, which in the
+autumn retires for food and shelter to the Black mountains during the
+winter, recross the river at this season of the year, and spread
+themselves through the plains on the north of the Missouri. We halted
+and smoked a short time with them, and then proceeded on through
+handsome plains on each side of the river, and encamped at the distance
+of twenty-three and a half miles on the north side: the day was clear
+and pleasant, the wind high from the south, but afterwards changed to a
+western steady breeze. The bluffs which we passed to-day are upwards of
+one hundred feet high, composed of a mixture of yellow clay and sand,
+with many horizontal strata of carbonated wood resembling pit-coal, from
+one to five feet in depth, and scattered through the bluff at different
+elevations, some as high as eighty feet above the water: the hills along
+the river are broken, and present every appearance of having been burned
+at some former period; great quantities of pumicestone and lava or
+rather earth, which seems to have been boiled and then hardened by
+exposure, being seen in many parts of these hills where they are broken
+and washed down into gullies by the rain and melting snow. A great
+number of brants pass up the river: there are some of them perfectly
+white, except the large feathers of the first and second joint of the
+wing which are black, though in every other characteristic they resemble
+common gray brant: we also saw but could not procure an animal that
+burrows in the ground, and similar in every respect to the burrowing
+squirrel, except that it is only one third of its size. This may be the
+animal whose works we have often seen in the plains and prairies; they
+resemble the labours of the salamander in the sand hills of South
+Carolina and Georgia, and like him, the animals rarely come above
+ground; they consist of a little hillock of ten or twelve pounds of
+loose ground which would seem to have been reversed from a pot, though
+no aperture is seen through which it could have been thrown: on removing
+gently the earth, you discover that the soil has been broken in a circle
+of about an inch and a half diameter, where the ground is looser though
+still no opening is perceptible. When we stopped for dinner the squaw
+went out, and after penetrating with a sharp stick the holes of the
+mice, near some drift wood, brought to us a quantity of wild artichokes,
+which the mice collect and hoard in large numbers; the root is white, of
+an ovate form, from one to three inches long, and generally of the size
+of a man's finger, and two, four, and sometimes six roots are attached
+to a single stalk. Its flavour as well as the stalk which issues from it
+resemble those of the Jerusalem artichoke, except that the latter is
+much larger. A large beaver was caught in a trap last night, and the
+musquitoes begin to trouble us.
+
+Wednesday 10. We again set off early with clear pleasant weather, and
+halted about ten for breakfast, above a sandbank which was falling in,
+and near a small willow island. On both sides of the Missouri, after
+ascending the hills near the water, one fertile unbroken plain extends
+itself as far as the eye can reach, without a solitary tree or shrub,
+except in moist situations or in the steep declivities of hills where
+they are sheltered from the ravages of fire. At the distance of twelve
+miles we reached the lower point of a bluff on the south; which is in
+some parts on fire and throws out quantities of smoke which has a strong
+sulphurous smell, the coal and other appearances in the bluffs being
+like those described yesterday: at one o'clock we overtook three
+Frenchmen who left the fort a few days before us, in order to make the
+first attempt on this river of hunting beaver, which they do by means of
+traps: their efforts promise to be successful for they have already
+caught twelve which are finer than any we have ever seen: they mean to
+accompany us as far as the Yellowstone river in order to obtain our
+protection against the Assiniboins who might attack them. In the evening
+we encamped on a willow point to the south opposite to a bluff, above
+which a small creek falls in, and just above a remarkable bend in the
+river to the southwest, which we called the Little Basin. The low
+grounds which we passed to-day possess more timber than is usual, and
+are wider: the current is moderate, at least not greater than that of
+the Ohio in high tides; the banks too fall in but little; so that the
+navigation comparatively with that lower down the Missouri is safe and
+easy. We were enabled to make eighteen and a half miles: we saw the
+track of a large white bear, there were also a herd of antelopes in the
+plains; the geese and swan are now feeding in considerable quantities on
+the young grass in the low prairies; we shot a prairie hen, and a bald
+eagle of which there were many nests in the tall cottonwood trees; but
+could procure neither of two elk which were in the plain. Our old
+companions the musquitoes have renewed their visit, and gave us much
+uneasiness.
+
+Thursday, 11th. We set out at daylight, and after passing bare and
+barren hills on the south, and a plain covered with timber on the north,
+breakfasted at five miles distance: here we were regaled with a deer
+brought in by the hunters, which was very acceptable as we had been for
+several days without fresh meat; the country between this and fort
+Mandan being so frequently disturbed by hunters that the game has become
+scarce. We then proceeded with a gentle breeze from the south which
+carried the periogues on very well; the day was however so warm that
+several of the men worked with no clothes except round the waist, which
+is the less inconvenient as we are obliged to wade in some places owing
+to the shallowness of the river. At seven miles we reached a large
+sandbar making out from the north. We again stopped for dinner, after
+which we went on to a small plain on the north covered with cottonwood
+where we encamped, having made nineteen miles. The country around is
+much the same as that we passed yesterday: on the sides of the hills,
+and even on the banks of the rivers, as well as on the sandbars, is a
+white substance which appears in considerable quantities on the surface
+of the earth, and tastes like a mixture of common salt with glauber
+salts: many of the streams which come from the foot of the hills, are so
+strongly impregnated with this substance, that the water has an
+unpleasant taste and a purgative effect. A beaver was caught last night
+by one of the Frenchmen; we killed two geese, and saw some cranes, the
+largest bird of that kind common to the Missouri and Mississippi, and
+perfectly white except the large feathers on the two first joints of the
+wing which are black. Under a bluff opposite to our encampment we
+discovered some Indians with horses, whom we supposed were Minnetarees,
+but the width of the river prevented our speaking to them.
+
+Friday, 12th. We set off early and passed a high range of hills on the
+south side, our periogues being obliged to go over to the south in order
+to avoid a sandbank which was rapidly falling in. At six miles we came
+to at the lower side of the entrance of the Little Missouri, where we
+remained during the day for the purpose of making celestial
+observations. This river empties itself on the south side of the
+Missouri, one thousand six hundred and ninety-three miles from its
+confluence with the Mississippi. It rises to the west of the Black
+mountains, across the northern extremity of which it finds a narrow
+rapid passage along high perpendicular banks, then seeks the Missouri in
+a northeastern direction, through a broken country with highlands bare
+of timber, and the low grounds particularly supplied with cottonwood,
+elm, small ash, box, alder, and an undergrowth of willow, redwood,
+sometimes called red or swamp-willow, the redberry and chokecherry. In
+its course it passes near the northwest side of the Turtle mountain,
+which is said to be only twelve or fifteen miles from its mouth in a
+straight line a little to the south of west, so that both the Little
+Missouri and Knife river have been laid down too far southwest. It
+enters the Missouri with a bold current, and is one hundred and
+thirty-four yards wide, but its greatest depth is two feet and a half,
+and this joined to its rapidity and its sandbars, make the navigation
+difficult except for canoes, which may ascend it for a considerable
+distance. At the mouth, and as far as we could discern from the hills
+between the two rivers about three miles from their junction, the
+country is much broken, the soil consisting of a deep rich dark coloured
+loam, intermixed with a small proportion of fine sand and covered
+generally with a short grass resembling blue grass. In its colour, the
+nature of its bed, and its general appearance, it resembles so much the
+Missouri as to induce a belief that the countries they water are similar
+in point of soil. From the Mandan villages to this place the country is
+hilly and irregular, with the same appearance of glauber salts and
+carbonated wood, the low grounds smooth, sandy, and partially covered
+with cottonwood and small ash; at some distance back there are extensive
+plains of a good soil, but without timber or water.
+
+We found great quantities of small onions which grow single, the bulb of
+an oval form, white, about the size of a bullet with a leaf resembling
+that of the chive. On the side of a neighbouring hill, there is a
+species of dwarf cedar: it spreads its limbs along the surface of the
+earth, which it almost conceals by its closeness and thickness, and is
+sometimes covered by it, having always a number of roots on the under
+side, while on the upper are a quantity of shoots which with their
+leaves seldom rise higher than six or eight inches; it is an evergreen,
+its leaf more delicate than that of the common cedar, though the taste
+and smell is the same.
+
+The country around has been so recently hunted that the game are
+extremely shy, so that a white rabbit, two beaver, a deer, and a bald
+eagle were all that we could procure. The weather had been clear, warm,
+and pleasant in the morning, but about three we had a squall of high
+wind and rain with some thunder, which lasted till after sunset when it
+again cleared off.
+
+Saturday 13. We set out at sunrise, and at nine o'clock having the wind
+in our favour went on rapidly past a timbered low ground on the south,
+and a creek on the north at the distance of nine miles, which we called
+Onion creek, from the quantity of that plant which grows in the plains
+near it: this creek is about sixteen yards wide at a mile and a half
+above its mouth, it discharges more water than is usual for creeks of
+that size in this country, but the whole plain which it waters is
+totally destitute of timber. The Missouri itself widens very remarkably
+just above the junction with the Little Missouri: immediately at the
+entrance of the latter, it is not more than two hundred yards wide, and
+so shallow that it may be passed in canoes with setting poles, while a
+few miles above it is upwards of a mile in width: ten miles beyond Onion
+creek we came to another, discharging itself on the north in the centre
+of a deep bend: on ascending it for about a mile and a half, we found it
+to be the discharge of a pond or small lake, which seemed to have been
+once the bed of the Missouri: near this lake were the remains of
+forty-three temporary lodges which seem to belong to the Assiniboins,
+who are now on the river of the same name. A great number of swan and
+geese were also in it, and from this circumstance we named the creek
+Goose creek, and the lake by the same name: these geese we observe do
+not build their nests on the ground or in sandbars, but in the tops of
+lofty cottonwood trees: we saw some elk and buffaloe to-day but at too
+great a distance to obtain any of them, though a number of the carcases
+of the latter animal are strewed along the shores, having fallen through
+the ice, and been swept along when the river broke up. More bald eagles
+are seen on this part of the Missouri than we have previously met with;
+the small or common hawk, common in most parts of the United States, are
+also found here: great quantities of geese are feeding in the prairies,
+and one flock of white brant or goose with black wings, and some gray
+brant with them pass up river, and from their flight they seem to
+proceed much farther to the northwest. We killed two antelopes which
+were very lean, and caught last night two beaver: the French hunters who
+had procured seven, thinking the neighborhood of the Little Missouri a
+convenient hunting ground for that animal, remained behind there: in
+the evening we encamped in a beautiful plain on the north thirty feet
+above the river, having made twenty-two and a half miles.
+
+Sunday 14. We set off early with pleasant and fair weather: a dog joined
+us, which we suppose had strayed from the Assiniboin camp on the lake.
+At two and a half miles we passed timbered low grounds and a small
+creek: in these low grounds are several uninhabited lodges built with
+the boughs of the elm, and the remains of two recent encampments, which
+from the hoops of small kegs found in them we judged could belong to
+Assiniboins only, as they are the only Missouri Indians who use
+spirituous liquors: of these they are so passionately fond that it forms
+their chief inducement to visit the British on the Assiniboin, to whom
+they barter for kegs of rum their dried and pounded meat, their grease,
+and the skins of large and small wolves, and small foxes. The dangerous
+exchange is transported to their camps with their friends and relations,
+and soon exhausted in brutal intoxication: so far from considering
+drunkenness as disgraceful, the women and children are permitted and
+invited to share in these excesses with their husbands and fathers, who
+boast how often their skill and industry as hunters has supplied them
+with the means of intoxication: in this, as in their other habits and
+customs, they resemble the Sioux from whom they are descended: the trade
+with the Assiniboins and Knistenaux is encouraged by the British,
+because it procures provision for their _engages_ on their return from
+Rainy lake to the English river and the Athabasky country where they
+winter; these men being obliged during that voyage to pass rapidly
+through a country but scantily supplied with game. We halted for dinner
+near a large village of burrowing squirrels, who we observe generally
+select a southeasterly exposure, though they are sometimes found in the
+plains. At ten and a quarter miles we came to the lower point of an
+island, which from the day of our arrival there we called Sunday
+island: here the river washes the bases of the hills on both sides and
+above the island, which with its sandbar extends a mile and a half: two
+small creeks fall in from the south; the uppermost of these, which is
+the largest, we called Chaboneau's creek, after our interpreter who once
+encamped on it several weeks with a party of Indians. Beyond this no
+white man had ever been except two Frenchmen, one of whom Lapage is with
+us, and who having lost their way straggled a few miles further, though
+to what point we could not ascertain: about a mile and a half beyond
+this island we encamped on a point of woodland on the north, having made
+in all fourteen miles.
+
+The Assiniboins have so recently left the river that game is scarce and
+shy. One of the hunters shot at an otter last evening; a buffaloe too
+was killed, and an elk, both so poor as to be almost unfit for use; two
+white bear were also seen, and a muskrat swimming across the river. The
+river continues wide and of about the same rapidity as the ordinary
+current of the Ohio. The low grounds are wide, the moister parts
+containing timber, the upland extremely broken, without wood, and in
+some places seem as if they had slipped down in masses of several acres
+in surface. The mineral appearances of salts, coal, and sulphur, with
+the burnt hill and pumicestone continue, and a bituminous water about
+the colour of strong lye, with the taste of glauber salts and a slight
+tincture of allum. Many geese were feeding in the prairies, and a number
+of magpies who build their nest much like those of the blackbird in
+trees, and composed of small sticks, leaves and grass, open at top: the
+egg is of a bluish brown color, freckled with reddish brown spots. We
+also killed a large hooting owl resembling that of the United States,
+except that it was more booted and clad with feathers. On the hills are
+many aromatic herbs, resembling in taste, smell and appearance the sage,
+hysop, wormwood, southern wood, juniper and dwarf cedar; a plant also
+about two or three feet high, similar to the camphor in smell and
+taste, and another plant of the same size, with a long, narrow, smooth,
+soft leaf, of an agreeable smell and flavour, which is a favourite food
+of the antelope, whose necks are often perfumed by rubbing against it.
+
+Monday 15. We proceeded under a fine breeze from the south, and clear
+pleasant weather. At seven miles we reached the lower point of an island
+in a bend to the south, which is two miles in length. Captain Clarke,
+who went about nine miles northward from the river reached the high
+grounds, which, like those we have seen, are level plains without
+timber; here he observed a number of drains, which descending from the
+hills pursue a northeast course, and probably empty into the Mouse
+river, a branch of the Assiniboin, which from Indian accounts approaches
+very near to the Missouri at this place. Like all the rivulets of this
+neighbourhood these drains were so strongly impregnated with mineral
+salts that they are not fit to drink. He saw also the remains of several
+camps of Assiniboins; the low grounds on both sides of the river are
+extensive, rich, and level. In a little pond on the north, we heard for
+the first time this season the croaking of frogs, which exactly
+resembles that of the small frogs in the United States: there are also
+in these plains great quantities of geese, and many of the grouse, or
+prairie hen, as they are called by the N.W. company traders; the note of
+the male, as far as words can represent it, is cook, cook, cook, coo,
+coo, coo, the first part of which both male and female use when flying;
+the male too drums with his wings when he flies in the same way, though
+not so loud as the pheasant; they appear to be mating. Some deer, elk,
+and goats were in the low grounds, and buffaloe on the sand beaches, but
+they were uncommonly shy; we also saw a black bear, and two white ones.
+At fifteen miles we passed on the north side a small creek twenty yards
+wide, which we called Goatpen creek, from a park or enclosure for the
+purpose of catching that animal, which those who went up the creek
+found, and which we presume to have been left by the Assiniboins. Its
+water is impregnated with mineral salts, and the country through which
+it flows consists of wide and very fertile plains, but without any
+trees. We encamped at the distance of twenty-three miles, on a sandpoint
+to the south; we passed in the evening a rock in the middle of the
+river, the channel of which a little above our camp, is confined within
+eighty yards.
+
+Tuesday 16. The morning was clear, the wind light from the S.E. The
+country presents the same appearance of low plains and meadows on the
+river, bounded a few miles back by broken hills, which end in high level
+fertile lands, the quantity of timber is however increasing. The
+appearance of minerals continues as usual, and to-day we found several
+stones which seemed to have been wood, first carbonated and then
+petrified by the water of the Missouri, which has the same effect on
+many vegetable substances. There is indeed reason to believe that the
+strata of coal in the hills cause the fire and appearances which they
+exhibit of being burned. Whenever these marks present themselves in the
+bluffs on the river, the coal is seldom seen, and when found in the
+neighborhood of the strata of burnt earth, the coal with the sand and
+sulphurous matter usually accompanying it, is precisely at the same
+height and nearly of the same thickness with those strata. We passed
+three small creeks or rather runs, which rise in the hills to the north.
+Numbers of geese, and few ducks chiefly of the mallard and bluewinged
+teal, many buffaloe, elk and deer were also observed, and in the
+timbered low grounds this morning we were surprised to observe a great
+quantity of old hornets' nests: we encamped in a point of woods on the
+south, having come eighteen miles, though the circuits which we were
+obliged to make around sandbars very much increased the real distance.
+
+Wednesday, April 17. We set off early, the weather being fine, and the
+wind so favourable as to enable us to sail the greater part of the
+course. At ten and three quarter miles we passed a creek ten yards wide
+on the south; at eighteen miles a little run on the north, and at night
+encamped in a woody point on the south. We had travelled twenty-six
+miles through a country similar to that of yesterday, except that there
+were greater appearances of burnt hills, furnishing large quantities of
+lava and pumicestone, of the last of which we observe some pieces
+floating down the river, as we had previously done, as low as the Little
+Missouri. In all the copses of wood are the remains of the Assiniboin
+encampments; around us are great quantities of game, such as herds of
+buffaloe, elk, antelopes, some deer and wolves, the tracks of bears, a
+curlue was also seen, and we obtained three beaver, the flesh of which
+is more relished by the men than any other food which we have. Just
+before we encamped we saw some tracks of Indians, who had passed
+twenty-four hours before, and left four rafts, and whom we supposed to
+be a band of Assiniboins on their return from war against the Indians on
+the Rocky mountains.
+
+Thursday 18. We had again a pleasant day, and proceeded on with a
+westerly wind, which however changed to N.W. and blew so hard that we
+were obliged to stop at one o'clock and remain four hours, when it
+abated and we then continued our course.
+
+We encamped about dark on a woody bank having made thirteen miles. The
+country presented the usual variety of highlands interspersed with rich
+plains. In one of these we observed a species of pea bearing a yellow
+flower, which is now in blossom, the leaf and stalk resembling the
+common pea. It seldom rises higher than six inches, and the root is
+perennial. On the rose bushes we also saw a quantity of the hair of the
+buffaloe, which had become perfectly white by exposure, and resembled
+the wool of the sheep, except that it was much finer and more soft and
+silky. A buffaloe which we killed yesterday had shed his long hair, and
+that which remained was about two inches long, thick, fine, and would
+have furnished five pounds of wool, of which we have no doubt an
+excellent cloth may be made. Our game to-day was a beaver, a deer, an
+elk, and some geese. The river has been crooked all day and bearing
+towards the south.
+
+On the hills we observed considerable quantities of dwarf juniper, which
+seldom grows higher than three feet. We killed in the course of the day
+an elk, three geese and a beaver. The beaver on this part of the
+Missouri are in greater quantities, larger and fatter, and their fur is
+more abundant and of a darker colour than any we had hitherto seen:
+their favourite food seems to be the bark of the cottonwood and willow,
+as we have seen no other species of tree that has been touched by them,
+and these they gnaw to the ground through a diameter of twenty inches.
+
+The next day, Friday, 19th, the wind was so high from northwest that we
+could not proceed, but being less violent on
+
+Saturday, 20th, we set off about seven o'clock, and had nearly lost one
+of the canoes as we left the shore, by the falling in of a large part of
+the bank. The wind too became again so strong that we could scarcely
+make one mile an hour, and the sudden squalls so dangerous to the small
+boats, that we stopped for the night among some willows on the north,
+not being able to advance more than six and a half miles. In walking
+through the neighbouring plains we found a fine fertile soil covered
+with cottonwood, some box, alder, ash, red elm, and an undergrowth of
+willow, rosebushes, honeysuckle, red willow, gooseberry, currant, and
+serviceberries, and along the foot of the hills great quantities of
+hysop. Our hunters procured elk and deer which are now lean, and six
+beaver which are fatter and more palatable. Along the plain there were
+also some Indian camps; near one of these was a scaffold about seven
+feet high, on which were two sleds with their harness, and under it the
+body of a female, carefully wrapped in several dressed buffaloe skins;
+near it lay a bag made of buffaloe skin, containing a pair of moccasins,
+some red and blue paint, beaver's nails, scrapers for dressing hides,
+some dried roots, several plaits of sweet grass, and a small quantity of
+Mandan tobacco. These things as well as the body itself had probably
+fallen down by accident, as the custom is to place them on the scaffold.
+At a little distance was the body of a dog not yet decayed, who had met
+this reward for having dragged thus far in the sled the corpse of his
+mistress, to whom according to the Indian usage he had been sacrificed.
+
+Sunday, 21st. Last night there was a hard white frost, and this morning
+the weather cold, but clear and pleasant: in the course of the day
+however it became cloudy and the wind rose. The country is of the same
+description as within the few last days. We saw immense quantities of
+buffaloe, elk, deer, antelopes, geese, and some swan and ducks, out of
+which we procured three deer, four buffaloe calves, which last are equal
+in flavour to the most delicious veal; also two beaver, and an otter. We
+passed one large and two small creeks on the south side, and reached at
+sixteen miles the mouth of Whiteearth river, coming in from the north.
+This river before it reaches the low grounds near the Missouri, is a
+fine bold stream sixty yards wide, and is deep and navigable, but it is
+so much choked up at the entrance by the mud of the Missouri, that its
+mouth is not more than ten yards wide. Its course, as far as we could
+discern from the neighbouring hills, is nearly due north, passing
+through a beautiful and fertile valley, though without a tree or bush of
+any description. Half a mile beyond this river we encamped on the same
+side below a point of highland, which from its appearance we call Cut
+bluff.
+
+Monday, 22d. The day clear and cold: we passed a high bluff on the north
+and plains on the south, in which were large herds of buffaloe, till
+breakfast, when the wind became so strong ahead that we proceeded with
+difficulty even with the aid of the towline. Some of the party now
+walked across to the Whiteearth river, which here at the distance of
+four miles from its mouth approaches very near to the Missouri. It
+contains more water than is usual in streams of the same size at this
+season, with steep banks about ten or twelve feet high, and the water is
+much clearer than that of the Missouri; the salts which have been
+mentioned as common on the Missouri, are here so abundant that in many
+places the ground appears perfectly white, and from this circumstance it
+may have derived its name; it waters an open country and is navigable
+almost to its source, which is not far from the Saskaskawan, and judging
+from its size and course, it is probable that it extends as far north as
+the fiftieth degree of latitude. After much delay in consequence of the
+high wind, we succeeded in making eleven miles, and encamped in a low
+ground on the south covered with cottonwood and rabbitberries. The hills
+of the Missouri near this place exhibit large irregular broken masses of
+rocks and stones, some of which, although two hundred feet above the
+water, seem at some remote period to have been subject to its influence,
+being apparently worn smooth by the agitation of the water. These rocks
+and stones consist of white and gray granite, a brittle black rock,
+flint, limestone, freestone, some small specimens of an excellent
+pebble, and occasionally broken stratas of a black coloured stone like
+petrified wood, which make good whetstones. The usual appearances of
+coal, or carbonated wood, and pumicestone still continue, the coal being
+of a better quality and when burnt affords a hot and lasting fire,
+emitting very little smoke or flame. There are huge herds of deer, elk,
+buffaloe, and antelopes in view of us: the buffaloe are not so shy as
+the rest, for they suffer us to approach within one hundred yards before
+they run, and then stop and resume their pasture at a very short
+distance. The wolves to-day pursued a herd of them, and at length caught
+a calf that was unable to keep up with the rest; the mothers on these
+occasions defending their young as long as they can retreat as fast as
+the herd, but seldom returning any distance to seek for them.
+
+Tuesday 23. A clear and pleasant morning, but at nine o'clock the wind
+became so high that the boats were in danger of upsetting; we therefore
+were forced to stop at a place of safety till about five in the
+afternoon, when the wind being lower we proceeded and encamped on the
+north at the distance of thirteen and a half miles: the party on shore
+brought us a buffaloe calf and three blacktailed deer: the sand on the
+river has the same appearances as usual, except that the quantity of
+wood increases.
+
+Wednesday 24. The wind blew so high during the whole day that we were
+unable to move; such indeed was its violence, that although we were
+sheltered by high timber the waves wet many articles in the boats: the
+hunters went out and returned with four deer, two elk, and some young
+wolves of the small kind. The party are very much afflicted with sore
+eyes, which we presume are occasioned by the vast quantities of sand
+which are driven from the sandbars in such clouds as often to hide from
+us the view of the opposite bank. The particles of this sand are so fine
+and light that it floats for miles in the air like a column of thick
+smoke, and is so penetrating that nothing can be kept free from it, and
+we are compelled to eat, drink, and breathe it very copiously. To the
+same cause we attribute the disorder of one of our watches, although her
+cases are double and tight; since without any defect in its works, that
+we can discover, it will not run for more than a few minutes without
+stopping.
+
+Thursday 25. The wind moderated this morning, but was still high; we
+therefore set out early, the weather being so cold that the water froze
+on the oars as we rowed, and about ten o'clock the wind increased so
+much that we were obliged to stop. This detention from the wind and the
+reports from our hunters of the crookedness of the river, induced us to
+believe that we were at no great distance from the Yellowstone river. In
+order therefore to prevent delay as much as possible, captain Lewis
+determined to go on by land in search of that river, and make the
+necessary observations, so as to be enabled to proceed on immediately
+after the boats should join him; he therefore landed about eleven
+o'clock on the south side, accompanied by four men; the boats were
+prevented from going until five in the afternoon, when they went on a
+few miles further and encamped for the night at the distance of fourteen
+and a half miles.
+
+Friday 26. We continued our voyage in the morning and by twelve o'clock
+encamped at eight miles distance, at the junction of the Missouri and
+Yellowstone rivers; where we were soon joined by captain Lewis.
+
+On leaving us yesterday he pursued his route along the foot of the
+hills, which he ascended at the distance of eight miles; from these the
+wide plains watered by the Missouri and the Yellowstone spread
+themselves before the eye, occasionally varied with the wood of the
+banks, enlivened by the irregular windings of the two rivers, and
+animated by vast herds of buffaloe, deer, elk, and antelope. The
+confluence of the two rivers was concealed by the wood, but the
+Yellowstone itself was only two miles distant to the south. He therefore
+descended the hills and encamped on the bank of the river, having killed
+as he crossed the plain four buffaloes; the deer alone are shy and
+retire to the woods, but the elk, antelope, and buffaloe suffered him to
+approach them without alarm, and often followed him quietly for some
+distance. This morning he sent a man up the river to examine it, while
+he proceeded down to the junction: the ground on the lower side of the
+Yellowstone near its mouth, is flat, and for about a mile seems to be
+subject to inundation, while that at the point or junction, as well as
+on the opposite side of the Missouri, is at the usual height of ten or
+eighteen feet above the water, and therefore not overflown. There is
+more timber in the neighbourhood of this place, and on the Missouri, as
+far below as the Whiteearth river, than on any other part of the
+Missouri on this side of the Chayenne: the timber consists principally
+of cottonwood, with some small elm, ash, and box alder. On the sandbars
+and along the margin of the river grows the small-leafed willow; in the
+low grounds adjoining are scattered rosebushes three or four feet high,
+the redberry, serviceberry and redwood. The higher plains are either
+immediately on the river, in which case they are generally timbered, and
+have an undergrowth like that of the low grounds, with the addition of
+the broad-leafed willow, gooseberry, chokecherry, purple currant, and
+honeysuckle; or they are between the low grounds and the hills, and for
+the most part without wood or any thing except large quantities of wild
+hysop; this plant rises about two feet high, and like the willow of the
+sandbars is a favourite food of the buffaloe, elk, deer, grouse,
+porcupine, hare, and rabbit. This river which had been known to the
+French as the Roche jaune, or as we have called it the Yellowstone,
+rises according to Indian information in the Rocky mountains; its
+sources are near those of the Missouri and the Platte, and it may be
+navigated in canoes almost to its head. It runs first through a
+mountainous country, but in many parts fertile and well timbered; it
+then waters a rich delightful land, broken into vallies and meadows, and
+well supplied with wood and water till it reaches near the Missouri open
+meadows and low grounds, sufficiently timbered on its borders. In the
+upper country its course is represented as very rapid, but during the
+two last and largest portions, its current is much more gentle than that
+of the Missouri, which it resembles also in being turbid though with
+less sediment. The man who was sent up the river, reported in the
+evening that he had gone about eight miles, that during that distance
+the river winds on both sides of a plain four or five miles wide, that
+the current was gentle and much obstructed by sandbars, that at five
+miles he had met with a large timbered island, three miles beyond which
+a creek falls in on the S.E. above a high bluff, in which are several
+strata of coal. The country as far as he could discern, resembled that
+of the Missouri, and in the plain he met several of the bighorn animals,
+but they were too shy to be obtained. The bed of the Yellowstone, as we
+observed it near the mouth, is composed of sand and mud, without a stone
+of any kind. Just above the confluence we measured the two rivers, and
+found the bed of the Missouri five hundred and twenty yards wide, the
+water occupying only three hundred and thirty, and the channel deep:
+while the Yellowstone, including its sandbar, occupied eight hundred and
+fifty-eight yards, with two hundred and ninety-seven yards of water: the
+deepest part of the channel is twelve feet, but the river is now falling
+and seems to be nearly at its summer height.
+
+April 27. We left the mouth of the Yellowstone. From the point of
+junction a wood occupies the space between the two rivers, which at the
+distance of a mile comes within two hundred and fifty yards of each
+other. There a beautiful low plain commences, and widening as the rivers
+recede, extends along each of them for several miles, rising about half
+a mile from the Missouri into a plain twelve feet higher than itself.
+The low plain is a few inches above high water mark, and where it joins
+the higher plain there is a channel of sixty or seventy yards in width,
+through which a part of the Missouri when at its greatest height passes
+into the Yellowstone. At two and a half miles above the junction and
+between the high and low plain is a small lake, two hundred yards wide,
+extending for a mile parallel with the Missouri along the edge of the
+upper plain. At the lower extremity of this lake, about four hundred
+yards from the Missouri, and twice that distance from the Yellowstone,
+is a situation highly eligible for a trading establishment; it is in the
+high plain which extends back three miles in width, and seven or eight
+miles in length, along the Yellowstone, where it is bordered by an
+extensive body of woodland, and along the Missouri with less breadth,
+till three miles above it is circumscribed by the hills within a space
+four yards in width. A sufficient quantity of limestone for building may
+easily be procured near the junction of the rivers; it does not lie in
+regular stratas, but is in large irregular masses, of a light colour and
+apparently of an excellent quality. Game too is very abundant, and as
+yet quite gentle; above all, its elevation recommends it as preferable
+to the land at the confluence of the rivers, which their variable
+channels may render very insecure. The N.W. wind rose so high at eleven
+o'clock, that we were obliged to stop till about four in the afternoon,
+when we proceeded till dusk. On the south a beautiful plain separates
+the two rivers, till at about six miles there is a timbered piece of low
+ground, and a little above it bluffs, where the country rises gradually
+from the river; the situations on the north more high and open. We
+encamped on that side, the wind, the sand which it raised, and the
+rapidity of the current having prevented our advancing more than eight
+miles; during the latter part of the day the river becomes wider and
+crowded with sandbars: although the game is in such plenty we kill only
+what is necessary for our subsistence. For several days past we have
+seen great numbers of buffaloe lying dead along the shore, and some of
+them partly devoured by the wolves; they have either sunk through the
+ice during the winter, or been drowned in attempting to cross, or else,
+after crossing to some high bluff, found themselves too much exhausted
+either to ascend or swim back again, and perished for want of food; in
+this situation we found several small parties of them. There are geese
+too in abundance, and more bald-eagles than we have hitherto observed;
+the nests of these last being always accompanied by those of two or
+three magpies, who are their inseparable attendants.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER VIII.
+
+     Unusual appearance of salt--The formidable character of the white
+     bear--Porcupine river described--Beautiful appearance of the
+     surrounding country--Immense quantities of game--Milk river
+     described--Extraordinary character of Bigdry river--An instance of
+     uncommon tenacity of life in a white bear--Narrow escape of one of
+     the party from that animal--A still more remarkable
+     instance--Muscleshell river described.
+
+
+Sunday 28. The day was clear and pleasant, and the wind having shifted
+to southeast, we could employ our sails, and went twenty-four miles to a
+low ground on the north opposite to steep bluffs: the country on both
+sides is much broken, the hills approaching nearer to the river, and
+forming bluffs, some of a white and others of a red colour, and
+exhibiting the usual appearances of minerals, and some burnt hills
+though without any pumicestone; the salts are in greater quantities than
+usual, and the banks and sandbars are covered with a white incrustation
+like frost. The low grounds are level, fertile and partially timbered,
+but are not so wide as for a few days past. The woods are now green, but
+the plains and meadows seem to have less verdure than those below: the
+only streams which we met to-day are two small runs on the north and one
+on the south, which rise in the neighbouring hills, and have very little
+water. At the distance of eighteen miles the Missouri makes a
+considerable bend to the southeast: the game is very abundant, the
+common, and mule or blacktailed deer, elk, buffaloe, antelope, brown
+bear, beaver, and geese. The beaver have committed great devastation
+among the trees, one of which, nearly three feet in diameter, has been
+gnawed through by them.
+
+Monday 29. We proceeded early with a moderate wind: captain Lewis who
+was on shore with one hunter met about eight o'clock two white bears: of
+the strength and ferocity of this animal, the Indians had given us
+dreadful accounts: they never attack him but in parties of six or eight
+persons, and even then are often defeated with the loss of one or more
+of the party. Having no weapons but bows and arrows, and the bad guns
+with which the traders supply them, they are obliged to approach very
+near to the bear; and as no wound except through the head or heart is
+mortal, they frequently fall a sacrifice if they miss their aim. He
+rather attacks than avoids a man, and such is the terror which he has
+inspired, that the Indians who go in quest of him paint themselves and
+perform all the superstitious rites customary when they make war on a
+neighbouring nation. Hitherto those we had seen did not appear desirous
+of encountering us, but although to a skilful rifleman the danger is
+very much diminished, yet the white bear is still a terrible animal: on
+approaching these two, both captain Lewis and the hunter fired and each
+wounded a bear: one of them made his escape; the other turned upon
+captain Lewis and pursued him seventy or eighty yards, but being badly
+wounded he could not run so fast as to prevent him from reloading his
+piece, which he again aimed at him, and a third shot from the hunter
+brought him to the ground: he was a male not quite full grown, and
+weighed about three hundred pounds: the legs are somewhat longer than
+those of the black bear, and the talons and tusks much larger and
+longer. The testicles are also placed much farther forward and suspended
+in separate pouches from two to four inches asunder, while those of the
+black bear are situated back between the thighs and in a single pouch
+like those of the dog: its colour is a yellowish brown, the eyes small,
+black, and piercing, the front of the fore legs near the feet is usually
+black, and the fur is finer, thicker, and deeper than that of the black
+bear: add to which, it is a more furious animal, and very remarkable for
+the wounds which it will bear without dying.
+
+We are surrounded with deer, elk, buffaloe, antelopes, and their
+companions the wolves, who have become more numerous and make great
+ravages among them: the hills are here much more rough and high, and
+almost overhang the banks of the river. There are greater appearances of
+coal than we have hitherto seen, the stratas of it being in some places
+six feet thick, and there are stratas of burnt earth, which are always
+on the same level with those of coal. In the evening after coming
+twenty-five miles we encamped at the entrance of a river which empties
+itself into a bend on the north side of the Missouri: this stream which
+we called Martha's river, is about fifty yards wide, with water for
+fifteen yards, the banks are of earth, and steep, though not high, and
+the bed principally of mud. Captain Clarke, who ascended it for three
+miles, found that it continued of the same width with a gentle current,
+and pursuing its course about north 30 degrees west, through an
+extensive, fertile, and beautiful valley, but without a single tree. The
+water is clear, and has a brownish yellow tint; at this place the
+highlands which yesterday and to-day had approached so near the river
+became lower, and receding from the water left a valley seven or eight
+miles wide.
+
+Tuesday 30. The wind was high from the north during last evening and
+continued so this morning: we however continued, and found the river
+more winding than usual and with a number of sand islands and bars, on
+one of which last we encamped at the distance of twenty-four miles. The
+low grounds are fertile and extensive but with very little timber, and
+that cottonwood, very bad of its kind, being too small for planks, and
+broken and dead at the top and unsound in the centre of the trunk. We
+passed some ancient lodges of driftwood which do not appear to have been
+lately inhabited. The game continues abundant: we killed the largest
+male elk we have yet seen; on placing it in its natural erect position,
+we found that it measured five feet three inches from the point of the
+hoof to the top of the shoulder. The antelopes are yet lean and the
+females are with young: this fleet and quick-sighted animal is generally
+the victim of its curiosity: when they first see the hunters they run
+with great velocity; if he lies down on the ground and lifts up his arm,
+his hat, or his foot, the antelope returns on a light trot to look at
+the object, and sometimes goes and returns two or three times till they
+approach within reach of the rifle; so too they sometimes leave their
+flock to go and look at the wolves who crouch down, and if the antelope
+be frightened at first repeat the same manoeuvre, and sometimes relieve
+each other till they decoy it from the party when they seize it. But
+generally the wolves take them as they are crossing the rivers, for
+although swift of foot they are not good swimmers.
+
+Wednesday, May 1. The wind was in our favour and we were enabled to use
+the sails till twelve o'clock, when the wind became so high and squally
+that we were forced to come to at the distance of ten miles on the
+south, in a low ground stocked with cottonwood, and remain there during
+the day; one of the canoes being separated from us, and not able to
+cross over in consequence of the high waves. The country around is more
+pleasant than that through which we had passed for several days, the
+hills being lower, the low grounds wider and better supplied with
+timber, which consists principally of cottonwood: the undergrowth willow
+on the banks and sandbars, rosebushes, redwillow, and the broad-leafed
+willow in the low plains, while the high country on both sides is one
+extensive plain without wood, though the soil is a dark, rich, mellow
+loam. Our hunters killed a buffaloe, an elk, a goat, and two beaver, and
+also a bird of the plover kind.
+
+Thursday, 2d. The wind continued high during the night, and at daylight
+it began to snow and did not stop till ten o'clock, when the ground was
+covered an inch deep, forming a striking contrast with the vegetation
+which is now considerably advanced; some flowers having put forth, and
+the cottonwood leaves as large as a dollar. The wind lulled about five
+o'clock in the afternoon, and we then proceeded along wide fertile low
+grounds and high level plains, and encamped at the distance of four
+miles. Our game to-day was deer, elk, and buffaloe: we also procured
+three beaver who are quite gentle, as they have not been hunted, but
+when the hunters are in pursuit they never leave their huts during the
+day: this animal we esteem a great delicacy, particularly the tail,
+which when boiled resembles in flavor the flesh tongues and sounds of
+the codfish, and is generally so large as to afford a plentiful meal for
+two men. One of the hunters in passing near an old Indian camp found
+several yards of scarlet cloth, suspended on the bough of a tree as a
+sacrifice to the deity by the Assiniboins: the custom of making these
+offerings being common among that people as indeed among all the Indians
+on the Missouri. The air was sharp this evening; the water froze on the
+oars as we rowed, and in the morning.
+
+Friday, 3d, the weather became quite cold, the ice was a quarter of an
+inch thick in the kettle, and the snow still continued on the hills
+though it has melted from the plains. The wind too continued high from
+the west, but not so violently as to prevent our going on. At two miles
+from our encampment we passed a curious collection of bushes about
+thirty feet high and ten or twelve in diameter, tied in the form of a
+fascine and standing on end in the middle of the low ground: this too we
+supposed to have been left by the Indians as a religious sacrifice: at
+twelve o'clock the usual hour we halted for dinner. The low grounds on
+the river are much wider than common, sometimes extending from five to
+nine miles to the highlands, which are much lower than heretofore, not
+being more than fifty or sixty feet above the lower plain: through all
+this valley traces of the ancient bed of the river are every where
+visible, and since the hills have become lower, the stratas of coal,
+burnt earth, and pumicestone have in a great measure ceased, there
+being in fact none to-day. At the distance of fourteen miles we reached
+the mouth of a river on the north, which from the unusual number of
+porcupines near it, we called Porcupine river. This is a bold and
+beautiful stream one hundred and twelve yards wide, though the water is
+only forty yards at its entrance: captain Clarke who ascended it several
+miles and passed it above where it enters the highlands, found it
+continued nearly of the same width and about knee deep, and as far as he
+could distinguish for twenty miles from the hills, its course was from a
+little to the east of north. There was much timber on the low grounds:
+he found some limestone also on the surface of the earth in the course
+of his walk, and saw a range of low mountains at a distance to the west
+of north, whose direction was northwest; the adjoining country being
+every where level, fertile, open, and exceedingly beautiful. The water
+of this river is transparent, and is the only one that is so of all
+those that fall into the Missouri: before entering a large sandbar
+through which it discharges itself, its low grounds are formed of a
+stiff blue and black clay, and its banks which are from eight to ten
+feet high and seldom if ever overflow are composed of the same
+materials. From the quantity of water which this river contains, its
+direction, and the nature of the country through which it passes, it is
+not improbable that its sources may be near the main body of the
+Saskaskawan, and as in high water it can be no doubt navigated to a
+considerable distance, it may be rendered the means of intercourse with
+the Athabasky country, from which the northwest company derive so many
+of their valuable furs.
+
+A quarter of a mile beyond this river a creek falls in on the south, to
+which on account of its distance from the mouth of the Missouri, we gave
+it the name of Two-thousand mile creek: it is a bold stream with a bed
+thirty yards wide. Three miles and a half above Porcupine river, we
+reached some high timber on the north, and encamped just above an old
+channel of the river, which is now dry. We saw vast quantities of
+buffaloe, elk, deer, principally of the long tailed kind, antelopes,
+beaver, geese, ducks, brant, and some swan. The porcupines too are
+numerous, and so careless and clumsy that we can approach very near
+without disturbing them as they are feeding on the young willows;
+towards evening we also found for the first time, the nest of a goose
+among some driftwood, all that we have hitherto seen being on the top of
+a broken tree on the forks, and invariably from fifteen to twenty feet
+or more in height.
+
+Saturday 4. We were detained till nine in order to repair the rudder of
+one of the boats, and when we set out the wind was ahead; at six and a
+half miles we passed a small creek in a deep bend on the south with a
+sand island opposite to it, and then passing along an extensive plain
+which gradually rises from the north side of the river, encamped at the
+distance of eighteen miles in a point of woodland on the north: the
+river is this day wider than usual, and crowded with sandbars on all
+sides: the country is level, fertile, and beautiful, the low grounds
+extensive and contain a much greater portion of timber than is common:
+indeed all the forepart of the day the river was bordered with timber on
+both sides, a circumstance very rare on the Missouri, and the first that
+has occurred since we left the Mandans. There are as usual vast
+quantities of game, and extremely gentle; the male buffaloe particularly
+will scarcely give way to us, and as we approach will merely look at us
+for a moment, as something new, and then quietly resume their feeding.
+In the course of the day we passed some old Indian hunting camps, one of
+which consisted of two large lodges fortified with a circular fence,
+twenty or thirty feet in diameter, and made of timber laid horizontally,
+the beams overlaying each other to the height of five feet, and covered
+with the trunks and limbs of trees that have drifted down the river: the
+lodges themselves are formed by three or more strong sticks about the
+size of a man's leg or arm, and twelve feet long, which are attached at
+the top by a whith of small willows, and spreading out so as to form at
+the base a circle of ten or fourteen feet in diameter: against these are
+placed pieces of driftwood and fallen timber, usually in three ranges
+one on the other, and the interstices are covered with leaves, bark, and
+straw, so as to form a conical figure about ten feet high, with a small
+aperture in one side for the door. It is, however, at best a very
+imperfect shelter against the inclemencies of the seasons.
+
+Sunday 5. We had a fine morning, and the wind being from the east we
+used our sails. At the distance of five miles we came to a small island,
+and twelve miles farther encamped on the north, at the distance of
+seventeen miles. The country like that of yesterday is beautiful in the
+extreme. Among the vast quantities of game around us, we distinguish a
+small species of goose differing considerably from the common Canadian
+goose; its neck, head, and beak, being much thicker, larger, and shorter
+in proportion to its size, which is nearly a third smaller; the noise
+too resembling more that of the brant or of a young goose that has not
+yet fully acquired its note; in other respects its colour, habits, and
+the number of feathers in the tail, the two species correspond; this
+species also associates in flocks with the large geese, but we have not
+seen it pair off with them. The white brant is about the size of the
+common brown brant, or two thirds of the common goose, than which it is
+also six inches shorter from the extremity of the wings, though the
+beak, head, and neck are larger and stronger: the body and wings are of
+a beautiful pure white, except the black feathers of the first and
+second joints of the wings; the beak and legs are of a reddish or
+flesh-coloured white, the eye of a moderate size, the pupil of a deep
+sea-green incircled with a ring of yellowish brown, the tail consists of
+sixteen feathers equally long, the flesh is dark and as well as its note
+differs but little from those of the common brant, whom in form and
+habits it resembles, and with whom it sometimes unites in a common
+flock; the white brant also associate by themselves in large flocks, but
+as they do not seem to be mated or paired off, it is doubtful whether
+they reside here during the summer for the purpose of rearing their
+young.
+
+The wolves are also very abundant, and are of two species. First, the
+small wolf or burrowing dog of the prairies, which are found in almost
+all the open plains. It is of an intermediate size between the fox and
+dog, very delicately formed, fleet and active. The ears are large,
+erect, and pointed, the head long and pointed, like that of the fox; the
+tail long and bushy; the hair and fur of a pale reddish brown colour,
+though much coarser than that of the fox; the eye of a deep sea-green
+colour, small and piercing; the talons rather longer than those of the
+wolf of the Atlantic states, which animal as far as we can perceive is
+not to be found on this side of the river Platte. These wolves usually
+associate in bands of ten or twelve, and are rarely if ever seen alone,
+not being able singly to attack a deer or antelope. They live and rear
+their young in burrows, which they fix near some pass or spot much
+frequented by game, and sally out in a body against any animal which
+they think they can overpower, but on the slightest alarm retreat to
+their burrows making a noise exactly like that of a small dog.
+
+The second species is lower, shorter in the legs and thicker than the
+Atlantic wolf; their colour, which is not affected by the seasons, is of
+every variety of shade, from a gray or blackish brown to a cream
+coloured white. They do not burrow, nor do they bark, but howl, and they
+frequent the woods and plains, and skulk along the skirts of the
+buffaloe herds, in order to attack the weary or wounded.
+
+Captain Clarke and one of the hunters met this evening the largest brown
+bear we have seen. As they fired he did not attempt to attack, but fled
+with a most tremendous roar, and such was its extraordinary tenacity of
+life, that although he had five balls passed through his lungs and five
+other wounds, he swam more than half across the river to a sandbar, and
+survived twenty minutes. He weighed between five and six hundred pounds
+at least, and measured eight feet seven inches and a half from the nose
+to the extremity of the hind feet, five feet ten inches and half round
+the breast, three feet eleven inches round the neck, one foot eleven
+inches round the middle of the foreleg, and his talons, five on each
+foot, were four inches and three eighths in length. It differs from the
+common black bear in having its talons much longer and more blunt; its
+tail shorter; its hair of a reddish or bay brown, longer, finer, and
+more abundant; his liver, lungs, and heart, much larger even in
+proportion to his size, the heart particularly being equal to that of a
+large ox; his maw ten times larger; his testicles pendant from the belly
+and in separate pouches four inches apart: besides fish and flesh he
+feeds on roots, and every kind of wild fruit.
+
+The antelope are now lean and with young, so that they may readily be
+caught at this season, as they cross the river from S.W. to N.E.
+
+Monday 6. The morning being fair and the wind favourable, we set sail,
+and proceeded on very well the greater part of the day. The country
+continues level, rich, and beautiful; the low grounds wide and
+comparatively with the other parts of the Missouri, well supplied with
+wood. The appearances of coal, pumicestone, and burnt earth have ceased,
+though the salts of tartar or vegetable salts continue on the banks and
+sandbars, and sometimes in the little ravines at the base of the low
+hills. We passed three streams on the south; the first at the distance
+of one mile and a half from our camp was about twenty-five yards wide,
+but although it contained some water in standing pools it discharges
+none; this we called Littledry creek, about eight miles beyond which is
+Bigdry creek; fifty yards wide, without any water; the third is six
+miles further, and has the bed of a large river two hundred yards wide,
+yet without a drop of water: like the other two this stream, which we
+called Bigdry river, continues its width undiminished as far as we can
+discern. The banks are low, this channel formed of a fine brown sand,
+intermixed with a small proportion of little pebbles of various colours,
+and the country around flat and without trees. They had recently
+discharged their waters, and from their appearance and the nature of the
+country through which they pass, we concluded that they rose in the
+Black mountains, or in the level low plains which are probably between
+this place and the mountains; that the country being nearly of the same
+kind and of the same latitude, the rains of spring melting the snows
+about the same time, conspire with them to throw at once vast quantities
+of water down these channels, which are then left dry during the summer,
+autumn, and winter, when there is very little rain. We had to-day a
+slight sprinkling. But it lasted a very short time. The game is in such
+plenty that it has become a mere amusement to supply the party with
+provisions. We made twenty-five miles to a clump of trees on the north
+where we passed the night.
+
+Tuesday 7. The morning was pleasant and we proceeded at an early hour.
+There is much driftwood floating, and what is contrary to our
+expectation, although the river is rising, the water is somewhat clearer
+than usual. At eleven o'clock the wind became so high that one of the
+boats was nearly sunk, and we were obliged to stop till one, when we
+proceeded on, and encamped on the south, above a large sandbar
+projecting from the north, having made fifteen miles. On the north side
+of the river are the most beautiful plains we have yet seen: they rise
+gradually from the low grounds on the water to the height of fifty or
+sixty feet, and then extend in an unbroken level as far as the eye can
+reach: the hills on the south are more broken and higher, though at some
+distance back the country becomes level and fertile. There are no more
+appearances of burnt earth, coal, or pumicestone, though that of salt
+still continues, and the vegetation seems to have advanced but little
+since the twenty-eighth of last month: the game is as abundant as usual.
+The bald-eagles, of whom we see great numbers, probably feed on the
+carcases of dead animals, for on the whole Missouri we have seen neither
+the blue-crested fisher, nor the fishing-hawks, to supply them with
+their favourite food, and the water of the river is so turbid that no
+bird which feeds exclusively on fish can procure a subsistence.
+
+Wednesday 8. A light breeze from the east carried us sixteen miles, till
+we halted for dinner at the entrance of a river on the north. Captain
+Clarke who had walked on the south, on ascending a high point opposite
+to its entrance discovered a level and beautiful country which it
+watered; that its course for twelve or fifteen miles was N.W. when it
+divided into two nearly equal branches, one pursuing a direction nearly
+north, the other to the W. of N.W: its width at the entrance is one
+hundred and fifty yards, and on going three miles up, captain Lewis
+found it to be of the same breadth, and sometimes more; it is deep,
+gentle, and has a large quantity of water; its bed is principally of
+mud, the banks abrupt, about twelve feet in height, and formed of a
+dark, rich loam and blue clay; the low grounds near it are wide and
+fertile, and possess a considerable proportion of cottonwood and willow.
+It seems to be navigable for boats and canoes, and this circumstance
+joined to its course and the quantity of water, which indicates that it
+passes through a large extent of country, we are led to presume that it
+may approach the Saskashawan and afford a communication with that river.
+The water has a peculiar whiteness, such as might be produced by a
+tablespoon full of milk in a dish of tea, and this circumstance induced
+us to call it Milk river. In the evening we had made twenty-seven miles,
+and encamped on the south. The country on that side consists in general
+of high broken hills, with much gray, black and brown granite scattered
+over the surface of the ground. At a little distance from the river
+there is no timber on either side, the wood being confined as below to
+the margin of the river; so that unless the contrary is particularly
+mentioned, it is always understood that the upland is perfectly naked,
+and that we consider the low grounds well timbered if even a fifth be
+covered with wood. The wild liquorice is found in great abundance on
+these hills, as is also the white apple. As usual we are surrounded by
+buffaloe, elk, common and blacktailed deer, beaver, antelopes and
+wolves. We observed a place where an Indian had recently taken the hair
+off an antelope's skin, and some of the party thought they distinguished
+imperfectly some smoke and Indian lodges up Milk river, marks which we
+are by no means desirous of realizing, as the Indians are probably
+Assiniboins, and might be very troublesome.
+
+Thursday, 9th. We again had a favourable wind and sailed along very
+well. Between four and five miles we passed a large island in a deep
+bend to the north, and a large sandbar at the upper point. At fifteen
+and a quarter miles we reached the bed of a most extraordinary river
+which presents itself on the south: though as wide as the Missouri
+itself, that is about half a mile, it does not discharge a drop of water
+and contains nothing but a few standing pools. On ascending it three
+miles we found an eminence from which we saw the direction of the
+channel, first south for ten or twelve miles, then turning to the east
+of southeast as far as we could see; it passes through a wide valley
+without timber, and the surrounding country consists of waving low hills
+interspersed with some handsome level plains; the banks are abrupt and
+consist of a black or yellow clay; or of a rich sandy loam, but though
+they do not rise more than six or eight feet above the bed, they exhibit
+no appearance of being overflowed: the bed is entirely composed of a
+light brown sand, the particles of which like those of the Missouri are
+extremely fine. Like the dry rivers we passed before, this seemed to
+have discharged its waters recently, but the watermark indicated that
+its greatest depth had not been more than two feet: this stream, if it
+deserve the name, we called Bigdry river. About a mile below is a large
+creek on the same side, which is also perfectly dry: the mineral salts
+and quartz are in large quantities near this neighbourhood. The sand of
+the Missouri from its mouth to this place has been mixed with a
+substance which we had presumed to be a granulated chalk, but which is
+most probably this quartz. The game is now in great quantities,
+particularly the elk and buffaloe, which last is so gentle that the men
+are obliged to drive them out of the way with sticks and stones. The
+ravages of the beaver are very apparent: in one place the timber was
+entirely prostrated for a space of three acres in front on the river and
+one in depth, and great part of it removed, although the trees were in
+large quantities, and some of them as thick as the body of a man. At the
+distance of twenty-four miles we encamped, after making twenty-five and
+a half miles, at the entrance of a small creek in a bend on the north;
+to which we gave the name of Werner's creek after one of our men.
+
+For several days past the river has been as wide as it generally is near
+its mouth, but as it is much shallower, crowded with sandbars, and the
+colour of the water has become much clearer, we do not yet despair of
+reaching the Rock mountains, for which we are very anxious.
+
+Friday, 10th. We had not proceeded more than four and a quarter miles
+when the violence of the wind forced us to halt for the day under some
+timber in a bend on the south side. The wind continued high, the clouds
+thick and black, and we had a slight sprinkling of rain several times in
+the course of the day. Shortly after our landing a dog came to us, and
+as this induced us to believe that we are near the hunting grounds of
+the Assiniboins, who are a vicious ill-disposed people, it was
+necessary to be on our guard: we therefore inspected our arms which we
+found in good order, and sent several hunters to scour the country, but
+they returned in the evening having seen no tents, nor any recent tracks
+of Indians. Biles and imposthumes are very common among the party, and
+sore eyes continue in a greater or less degree with all of us; for the
+imposthumes we use emollient poultices, and apply to the eyes a solution
+of two grains of white vitriol and one of sugar of lead with one ounce
+of water.
+
+Saturday, 11th. The wind blew very hard in the night, but having abated
+this morning we went on very well, till in the afternoon the wind arose
+and retarded our progress; the current too was strong, the river very
+crooked, and the banks as usual constantly precipitating themselves in
+large masses into the water. The highlands are broken and approach
+nearer the river than they do below. The soil however of both hills and
+low grounds appear as fertile as that further down the river: it
+consists of a black looking loam with a small portion of sand, which
+cover the hills and bluffs to the depth of twenty or thirty feet, and
+when thrown in the water dissolves as readily as loaf-sugar, and
+effervesces like marle; there are also great appearances of quartz and
+mineral salts: the first is most commonly seen in the faces of the
+bluffs, the second is found on the hills as well as the low grounds, and
+in the gullies which come down from the hills; it lies in a crust of two
+or three inches in depth, and may be swept up with a feather in large
+quantities. There is no longer any appearance of coal burnt earth or
+pumicestone. We saw and visited some high hills on the north side about
+three miles from the river, whose tops were covered with the pitch-pine:
+this in the first pine we have seen on the Missouri, and it is like that
+of Virginia, except that the leaves are somewhat longer; among this pine
+is also a dwarf cedar, sometimes between three or four feet high, but
+generally spreading itself like a vine along the surface of the earth,
+which it covers very closely, putting out roots from the under side. The
+fruit and smell resemble those of the common red cedar, but the leaf is
+finer and more delicate. The tops of the hills where these plants grow
+have a soil quite different from that just described, the basis of it is
+usually yellow or white clay, and the general appearance light coloured,
+sandy, and barren, some scattering tufts of sedge being almost its only
+herbage. About five in the afternoon one of our men who had been
+afflicted with biles, and suffered to walk on shore, came running to the
+boats with loud cries and every symptom of terror and distress: for some
+time after we had taken him on board he was so much out of breath as to
+be unable to describe the cause of his anxiety, but he at length told us
+that about a mile and a half below he had shot a brown bear which
+immediately turned and was in close pursuit of him; but the bear being
+badly wounded could not overtake him. Captain Lewis with seven men
+immediately went in search of him, and having found his track followed
+him by the blood for a mile, and found him concealed in some thick
+brushwood, and shot him with two balls through the skull. Though
+somewhat smaller than that killed a few days ago, he was a monstrous
+animal and a most terrible enemy: our man had shot him through the
+centre of the lungs, yet he had pursued him furiously for half a mile,
+then returned more than twice that distance, and with his talons had
+prepared himself a bed in the earth two feet deep and five feet long,
+and was perfectly alive when they found him, which was at least two
+hours after he received the wound. The wonderful power of life which
+these animals possess render them dreadful: their very track in the mud
+or sand, which we have sometimes found eleven inches long and seven and
+a quarter wide, exclusive of the talons, is alarming; and we had rather
+encounter two Indians than meet a single brown bear. There is no chance
+of killing them by a single shot unless the ball goes through the
+brains, and this is very difficult on account of two large muscles
+which cover the side of the forehead, and the sharp projection of the
+centre of the frontal bone, which is also thick. Our encampment was on
+the south at the distance of sixteen miles from that of last night; the
+fleece and skin of the bear were a heavy burden for two men, and the oil
+amounted to eight gallons.
+
+Sunday, 12th. The weather being clear and calm, we set out early. Within
+a mile we came to a small creek, about twenty yards wide, emptying
+itself on the south. At eleven and three quarter miles we reached a
+point of woodland on the south, opposite to which is a creek of the same
+width as the last, but with little water, which we called Pine creek. At
+eighteen and three quarter miles we came to on the south opposite to the
+lower point of a willow island, situated in a deep bend of the river to
+the southeast: here we remained during the day, the wind having risen at
+twelve so high that we could not proceed: it continued to blow violently
+all night, with occasional sprinklings of rain from sunset till
+midnight. On both sides of the river the country is rough and broken,
+the low grounds becoming narrower; the tops of the hills on the north
+exhibits some scattered pine and cedar, on the south the pine has not
+yet commenced, though there is some cedar on the sides of the hills and
+in the little ravines. The chokecherry, the wild hysop, sage,
+fleshy-leafed thorn, and particularly the aromatic herb on which the
+antelope and hare feed, are to be found on the plains and hills. The
+soil of the hills has now altered its texture considerably: their bases,
+like that of the river plains, is as usual a rich, black loam, while
+from the middle to the summits they are composed of a light
+brown-coloured earth, poor and sterile, and intermixed with a coarse
+white sand.
+
+Monday, 13th. The wind was so strong that we could not proceed till
+about one o'clock, when we had to encounter a current rather stronger
+than usual. In the course of a mile and a half we passed two small
+creeks on the south, one of eighteen the other of thirty yards width,
+but neither of them containing any water, and encamped on the south at a
+point of woodland, having made only seven miles. The country is much the
+same as yesterday, with little timber in the low grounds, and a small
+quantity of pine and cedar on the northern hills. The river however
+continues to grow clearer, and this as well as the increased rapidity
+induces us to hope for some change of country. The game is as usual so
+abundant that we can get without difficulty all that is necessary.
+
+Tuesday, 14th. There was some fog on the river this morning, which is a
+very rare occurrence. At the distance of a mile and a half we reached an
+island in a bend on the north, which continued for about half a mile,
+when at the head of it a large creek comes in on the north, to which we
+gave the name of Gibson's creek. At seven and a half miles is a point of
+rocks on the south, above a creek on the same side, which we called
+Sticklodge creek: five miles further is a large creek on the south,
+which like the two others has no running water; and at sixteen and a
+half miles a timbered point on the north, where we encamped for the
+night. The country is like that of yesterday, except that the low
+grounds are wider; there are also many high black bluffs along the
+banks: the game too is in great abundance. Towards evening the men in
+the hindmost canoes discovered a large brown bear lying in the open
+grounds, about three hundred paces from the river: six of them, all good
+hunters, immediately went to attack him, and concealing themselves by a
+small eminence came unperceived within forty paces of him: four of the
+hunters now fired, and each lodged a ball in his body, two of them
+directly through the lungs: the furious animal sprung up and ran
+openmouthed upon them; as he came near, the two hunters who had reserved
+their fire gave him two wounds, one of which breaking his shoulder
+retarded his motion for a moment; but before they could reload he was so
+near that they were obliged to run to the river, and before they
+reached it he had almost overtaken them: two jumped into the canoe; the
+other four separated, and concealing themselves in the willows fired as
+fast as each could reload: they struck him several times, but instead of
+weakening the monster each shot seemed only to direct him towards the
+hunter, till at last he pursued two of them so closely, that they threw
+aside their guns and pouches, and jumped down a perpendicular bank of
+twenty feet into the river; the bear sprang after them, and was within a
+few feet of the hindmost, when one of the hunters on shore shot him in
+the head and finally killed him: they dragged him to the shore, and
+found that eight balls had passed through him in different directions;
+the bear was old and the meat tough, so that they took the skin only,
+and rejoined us at camp, where we had been as much terrified by an
+accident of a different kind. This was the narrow escape of one of our
+canoes containing all our papers, instruments, medicine, and almost
+every article indispensible for the success of our enterprise. The canoe
+being under sail, a sudden squall of wind struck her obliquely, and
+turned her considerably. The man at the helm, who was unluckily the
+worst steersman of the party, became alarmed, and instead of putting her
+before the wind luffed her up into it. The wind was so high that it
+forced the brace of the squaresail out of the hand of the man who was
+attending it, and instantly upset the canoe, which would have turned
+bottom upwards but for the resistance made by the awning. Such was the
+confusion on board, and the waves ran so high, that it was half a minute
+before she righted, and then nearly full of water, but by baling out she
+was kept from sinking until they rowed ashore; besides the loss of the
+lives of three men who not being able to swim would probably have
+perished, we should have been deprived of nearly every thing necessary
+for our purpose, at a distance of between two and three thousand miles
+from any place where we could supply the deficiency.
+
+Wednesday 15. As soon as a slight shower of rain had passed, we spread
+out the articles to dry; but the weather was so damp and cloudy that
+they derived little benefit from exposure. Our hunters procured us deer,
+buffaloe, and beaver.
+
+Thursday 16. The morning was fair and we were enabled to dry and repack
+our stores: the loss we sustained is chiefly in the medicines, many
+articles of which are completely spoiled, and others considerably
+injured. At four o'clock we embarked, and after making seven miles
+encamped on the north near some wood: the country on both sides is
+broken, the low grounds narrower and with less timber, though there are
+some scattered pine and cedar on the steep declivities of the hills,
+which are now higher than usual. A white bear tore the coat of one of
+the men which he had left on shore; and two of the party wounded a large
+panther who was feasting on a deer. We caught some lean antelopes as
+they were swimming the river, and killed two buffaloe.
+
+Friday 17. We set out early and proceeded on very well; the banks being
+firm and the shore bold we were enabled to use the towline, which,
+whenever the banks will permit it, is the safest and most expeditious
+mode of ascending the river, except under a sail with a steady breeze.
+At the distance of ten and a half miles we came to the mouth of a small
+creek on the south, below which the hills approach the river, and
+continue near it during the day: three miles further is a large creek on
+the north, and again six and three quarter miles beyond it, another
+large creek to the south, which contain a small quantity of running
+water of a brackish taste. The last we called Rattlesnake creek from our
+seeing that animal near it. Although no timber can be observed on it
+from the Missouri, it throws out large quantities of driftwood, among
+which were some pieces of coal brought down by the stream. We continued
+on one mile and a quarter, and encamped on the south, after making
+twenty and a half miles. The country in general is rugged, the hills
+high, with their summits and sides partially covered with pine and
+cedar, and their bases on both sides washed by the river: like those
+already mentioned the lower part of these hills is a dark rich loam,
+while the upper region for one hundred and fifty feet consists of a
+whitish brown sand, so hard as in many places to resemble stone, though
+in fact very little stone or rock of any kind is to be seen on the
+hills. The bed of the Missouri is much narrower than usual, being not
+more than between two and three hundred yards in width, with an
+uncommonly large proportion of gravel; but the sandbars, and low points
+covered with willows have almost entirely disappeared: the timber on the
+river consists of scarcely any thing more than a few scattered
+cottonwood trees. The saline incrustations along the banks and the foot
+of the hills are more abundant than usual. The game is in great
+quantities, but the buffaloe are not so numerous as they were some days
+ago: two rattlesnakes were seen to-day, and one of them killed: it
+resembles those of the middle Atlantic states, being about two feet six
+inches long, of a yellowish brown on the back and sides, variegated with
+a row of oval dark brown spots lying transversely on the back from the
+neck to the tail, and two other rows of circular spots of the same
+colour on the sides along the edge of the scuta: there are one hundred
+and seventy-six scuta on the belly, and seventeen on the tail. Captain
+Clarke saw in his excursions a fortified Indian camp which appeared to
+have been recently occupied, and was, we presumed, made by a party of
+Minnetarees who went to war last March.
+
+Late at night we were roused by the sergeant of the guard in consequence
+of a fire which had communicated to a tree overhanging our camp. The
+wind was so high, that we had not removed the camp more than a few
+minutes when a large part of the tree fell precisely on the spot it had
+occupied, and would have crushed us if we had not been alarmed in time.
+
+Saturday 18. The wind continued high from the west, but by means of the
+towline we were able to make nineteen miles, the sandbars being now few
+in number, the river narrow and the current gentle; the willow has in a
+great measure disappeared, and even the cottonwood, almost the only
+timber remaining, is growing scarce. At twelve and three quarter miles
+we came to a creek on the north, which was perfectly dry. We encamped on
+the south opposite the lower point of an island.
+
+Sunday 19. The last night was disagreeably cold; and in the morning
+there was a very heavy fog which obscured the river so much as to
+prevent our seeing the way. This is the first fog of any degree of
+thickness which we have experienced: there was also last evening a fall
+of dew, the second which we have seen since entering this extensive open
+country. About eight o'clock the fog dispersed, and we proceeded with
+the aid of the towline: the island near which we were encamped, was
+three quarters of a mile in length. The country resembles that of
+yesterday, high hills closely bordering the river. In the afternoon the
+river became crooked, and contained more sawyers or floating timber than
+we have seen in the same space since leaving the Platte. Our game
+consisted of deer, beaver, and elk: we also killed a brown bear, who,
+although shot through the heart, ran at his usual pace nearly a quarter
+of a mile before he fell. At twenty-one miles is a willow island half a
+mile in length, on the north side, a quarter of a mile beyond which is a
+shoal of rapid water under a bluff: the water continued very strong for
+some distance beyond it: at half a mile we came to a sandbar on the
+north, from which to our place of encampment was another half mile,
+making in all twenty-two and a quarter miles. The saline substances
+which we have mentioned continue to appear; and the men are much
+afflicted with sore eyes and imposthumes.
+
+Monday 20. As usual we set out early, and the banks being convenient for
+that purpose, we used the towline: the river is narrow and crooked, the
+water rapid, and the country much like that of yesterday: at the
+distance of two and a quarter miles we passed a large creek with but
+little water, to which we gave the name of Blowingfly creek, from the
+quantity of those insects found in its neighbourhood. They are extremely
+troublesome, infesting our meat whilst cooking and at our meals. After
+making seven miles we reached by eleven o'clock the mouth of a large
+river on the south, and encamped for the day at the upper point of its
+junction with the Missouri. This stream which we suppose to be that
+called by the Minnetarees the Muscleshell river, empties into the
+Missouri two thousand two hundred and seventy miles above the mouth of
+the latter river, and in latitude 47 degrees 0' 24" 6 north. It is one
+hundred and ten yards wide, and contains more water than streams of that
+size usually do in this country; its current is by no means rapid, and
+there is every appearance of its being susceptible of navigation by
+canoes for a considerable distance: its bed is chiefly formed of coarse
+sand and gravel, with an occasional mixture of black mud; the banks
+abrupt and nearly twelve feet high, so that they are secure from being
+overflowed: the water is of a greenish yellow cast and much more
+transparent than that of the Missouri, which itself, though clearer than
+below, still retains its whitish hue and a portion of its sediment.
+Opposite to the point of junction the current of the Missouri is gentle,
+and two hundred and twenty-two yards in width, the bed principally of
+mud (the little sand remaining being wholly confined to the points) and
+still too deep to use the setting pole. If this be, as we suppose, the
+Muscleshell, our Indian information is, that it rises in the first chain
+of the Rocky mountains not far from the sources of the Yellowstone,
+whence in its course to this place it waters a high broken country, well
+timbered particularly on its borders, and interspersed with handsome
+fertile plains and meadows. We have reason, however, to believe, from
+their giving a similar account of the timber where we now are, that the
+timber of which they speak is similar to that which we have seen for a
+few days past, which consists of nothing more than a few straggling
+small pine and dwarf cedar, on the summits of the hills, nine-tenths of
+the ground being totally destitute of wood, and covered with a short
+grass, aromatic herbs, and an immense quantity of prickly pears: though
+the party who explored it for eight miles represented low grounds on the
+river as well supplied with cottonwood of a tolerable size, and of an
+excellent soil. They also reported that the country is broken and
+irregular like that near our camp; that about five miles up a handsome
+river about fifty yards wide, which we named after Chaboneau's wife,
+Sahcajahweah, or Birdwoman's river, discharges itself into the
+Muscleshell on the north or upper side. Another party found at the foot
+of the southern hills, about four miles from the Missouri, a fine bold
+spring, which in this country is so rare that since we left the Mandans
+we have found only one of a similar kind, and that was under the bluffs
+on the south side of the Missouri, at some distance from it, and about
+five miles below the Yellowstone: with this exception all the small
+fountains of which we have met a number are impregnated with the salts
+which are so abundant here, and with which the Missouri is itself most
+probably tainted, though to us who have been so much accustomed to it,
+the taste is not perceptible. Among the game to-day we observed two
+large owls, with remarkably long feathers resembling ears on the sides
+of the head, which we presume are the hooting owls, though they are
+larger and their colours are brighter than those common in the United
+States.
+
+Tuesday 21. The morning being very fine we were able to employ the rope
+and made twenty miles to our camp on the north. The shores of the river
+are abrupt, bold and composed of a black and yellow clay, the bars being
+formed of black mud, and a small proportion of fine sand; the current
+strong. In its course the Missouri makes a sudden and extensive bend
+towards the south, to receive the waters of the Muscleshell. The neck of
+land thus formed, though itself high is lower than the surrounding
+country, and makes a waving valley extending for a great distance to the
+northward, with a fertile soil which, though without wood, produces a
+fine turf of low grass, some herbs and vast quantities of prickly pear.
+The country on the south is high, broken, and crowned with some pine and
+dwarf cedar; the leaf of this pine is longer than that of the common
+pitch or red pine of Virginia, the cone is longer and narrower, the
+imbrications wider and thicker, and the whole frequently covered with
+rosin. During the whole day the bends of the river are short and sudden;
+and the points covered with some cottonwood, large or broad leaved
+willow, and a small quantity of redwood; the undergrowth consisting of
+wild roses, and the bushes of the small honeysuckle.
+
+The mineral appearances on the river are as usual. We do not find the
+grouse or prairie hen so abundant as below, and think it probable that
+they retire from the river to the plains during this season.
+
+The wind had been moderate during the fore part of the day, but
+continued to rise towards evening, and about dark veered to northeast,
+and blew a storm all night. We had encamped on a bar on the north,
+opposite the lower point of an island, which from this circumstance we
+called Windy island; but we were so annoyed by clouds of dust and sand
+that we could neither eat nor sleep, and were forced to remove our camp
+at eight o'clock to the foot of an adjoining hill, which shielded us in
+some degree from the wind: we procured elk, deer, and buffaloe.
+
+Wednesday 22. The wind blew so violently that it was deemed prudent to
+wait till it had abated, so that we did not leave the camp till ten
+o'clock, when we proceeded principally by the towline. We passed Windy
+island which is about three quarters of a mile in length: and five and a
+half miles above it a large island in a bend to the north: three miles
+beyond this we came to the entrance of a creek twenty yards wide, though
+with little water, which we called Grouse creek, from observing near its
+mouth a quantity of the prairie hen with pointed tails, the first we
+have seen in such numbers for several days: the low grounds are somewhat
+wider than usual and apparently fertile, though the short and scanty
+grass on the hills does not indicate much richness of soil. The country
+around is not so broken as that of yesterday, but is still waving, the
+southern hills possessing more pine than usual, and some appearing on
+the northern hills, which are accompanied by the usual salt and mineral
+appearances.
+
+The river continues about two hundred and fifty yards wide, with fewer
+sandbars, and the current more gentle and regular. Game is no longer in
+such abundance, since leaving the Muscleshell. We have caught very few
+fish on this side of the Mandans, and these were the white catfish of
+two to five pounds. We killed a deer and a bear: we have not seen in
+this quarter the black bear, common in the United States and on the
+lower parts of the Missouri, nor have we discerned any of their tracks,
+which may easily be distinguished by the shortness of its talons from
+the brown, grizzly, or white bear, all of which seem to be of the same
+family, which assumes those colours at different seasons of the year. We
+halted earlier than usual, and encamped on the north, in a point of
+woods, at the distance of sixteen and a half miles.
+
+
+
+
+                                CHAPTER IX.
+
+     The party continue their route--description of Judith river--Indian
+     mode of taking the buffaloe--Slaughter river described--phenomena
+     of nature--of walls on the banks of the Missouri--the party encamp
+     on the banks of the river to ascertain which of the streams
+     constitute the Missouri--captain Lewis leaves the party to explore
+     the northern fork, and captain Clarke explores the southern--the
+     surrounding country described in the route of captain Lewis--narrow
+     escape of one of his party.
+
+
+Thursday 23. Last night the frost was severe, and this morning the ice
+appeared along the edges of the river, and the water froze on our oars.
+At the distance of a mile we passed the entrance of a creek on the
+north, which we named Teapot creek; it is fifteen yards wide, and
+although it has running water at a small distance from its mouth, yet it
+discharges none into the Missouri, resembling, we believe, most of the
+creeks in this hilly country, the waters of which are absorbed by the
+thirsty soil near the river. They indeed afford but little water in any
+part, and even that is so strongly tainted with salts that it is unfit
+for use, though all the wild animals are very fond of it. On experiment
+it was found to be moderately purgative, but painful to the intestines
+in its operation. This creek seems to come from a range of low hills,
+which run from east to west for seventy miles, and have their eastern
+extremity thirty miles to the north of Teapot creek. Just above its
+entrance is a large assemblage of the burrowing squirrels on the north
+side of the river. At nine miles we reached the upper point of an island
+in a bend on the south, and opposite the centre of the island, a small
+dry creek on the north. Half a mile further a small creek falls in on
+the same side; and six and a half miles beyond this another on the
+south. At four and a half we passed a small island in a deep bend to
+the north, and on the same side in a deep northeastern bend of the river
+another small island. None of these creeks however possessed any water,
+and at the entrances of the islands, the two first are covered with tall
+cottonwood timber, and the last with willows only. The river has become
+more rapid, the country much the same as yesterday, except that there is
+rather more rocks on the face of the hills, and some small spruce pine
+appears among the pitch. The wild roses are very abundant and now in
+bloom; they differ from those of the United States only in having the
+leaves and the bush itself of a somewhat smaller size. We find the
+musquitoes troublesome, notwithstanding the coolness of the morning. The
+buffaloe is scarce to-day, but the elk, deer, and antelope, are very
+numerous. The geese begin to lose the feathers of the wings, and are
+unable to fly. We saw five bears, one of which we wounded, but in
+swimming from us across the river, he become entangled in some driftwood
+and sank. We formed our camp on the north opposite to a hill and a point
+of wood in a bend to the south, having made twenty-seven miles.
+
+Friday 24. The water in the kettles froze one eighth of an inch during
+the night; the ice appears along the margin of the river, and the
+cottonwood trees which have lost nearly all their leaves by the frost,
+are putting forth other buds. We proceeded with the line principally
+till about nine o'clock, when a fine breeze sprung up from the S.E. and
+enabled us to sail very well, notwithstanding the rapidity of the
+current. At one mile and a half is a large creek thirty yards wide, and
+containing some water which it empties on the north side, over a
+gravelly bed, intermixed with some stone. A man who was sent up to
+explore the country returned in the evening, after having gone ten miles
+directly towards the ridge of mountains to the north, which is the
+source of this as well as of Teapot creek. The air of these highlands is
+so pure, that objects appear much nearer than they really are, so that
+although our man went ten miles without thinking himself by any means
+half way to the mountains, they do not from the river appear more than
+fifteen miles distant; this stream we called Northmountain creek. Two
+and a half miles higher is a creek on the south which is fifteen yards
+wide, but without any water, and to which we gave the name of Littledog
+creek, from a village of burrowing squirrels opposite to its entrance,
+that being the name given by the French watermen to those animals. Three
+miles from this a small creek enters on the north, five beyond which is
+an island a quarter of a mile in length, and two miles further a small
+river: this falls in on the south, is forty yards wide, and discharges a
+handsome stream of water; its bed rocky with gravel and sand, and the
+banks high: we called it Southmountain creek, as from its direction it
+seemed to rise in a range of mountains about fifty or sixty miles to the
+S.W. of its entrance. The low grounds are narrow and without timber; the
+country high and broken; a large portion of black rock, and brown sandy
+rock appears in the face of the hills, the tops of which are covered
+with scattered pine, spruce and dwarf cedar: the soil is generally poor,
+sandy near the tops of the hills, and nowhere producing much grass, the
+low grounds being covered with little else than the hysop, or southern
+wood, and the pulpy-leafed thorn. Game is more scarce, particularly
+beaver, of which we have seen but few for several days, and the
+abundance or scarcity of which seems to depend on the greater or less
+quantity of timber. At twenty-four and a half miles we reached a point
+of woodland on the south, where we observed that the trees had no
+leaves, and encamped for the night. The high country through which we
+have passed for some days, and where we now are, we suppose to be a
+continuation of what the French traders called the Cote Noire or Black
+hills. The country thus denominated consists of high broken irregular
+hills and short chains of mountains; sometimes one hundred and twenty
+miles in width, sometimes narrower, but always much higher than the
+country on either side. They commence about the head of the Kanzas,
+where they diverge; the first ridge going westward, along the northern
+shore of the Arkansaw; the second approaches the Rock mountains
+obliquely in a course a little to the W. of N.W. and after passing the
+Platte above its forks, and intersecting the Yellowstone near the
+Bigbend, crosses the Missouri at this place, and probably swell the
+country as far as the Saskashawan, though as they are represented much
+smaller here than to the south, they may not reach that river.
+
+Saturday, 25th. Two canoes which were left behind yesterday to bring on
+the game, did not join us till eight o'clock this morning, when we set
+out with the towline, the use of which the banks permitted. The wind
+was, however, ahead, the current strong, particularly round the points
+against which it happened to set, and the gullies from the hills having
+brought down quantities of stone, those projected into the river,
+forming barriers for forty or fifty feet round, which it was very
+difficult to pass. At the distance of two and three quarter miles we
+passed a small island in a deep bend on the south, and on the same side
+a creek twenty yards wide, but with no running water. About a mile
+further is an island between two and three miles in length, separated
+from the northern shore by a narrow channel, in which is a sand island
+at the distance of half a mile from its lower extremity. To this large
+island we gave the name of Teapot island; two miles above which is an
+island a mile long, and situated on the south. At three and a half miles
+is another small island, and one mile beyond it a second three quarters
+of a mile in length, on the north side. In the middle of the river two
+miles above this is an island with no timber, and of the same extent as
+this last. The country on each side is high, broken, and rocky; the rock
+being either a soft brown sandstone, covered with a thin stratum of
+limestone, or else a hard black rugged granite, both usually in
+horizontal stratas, and the sandrock overlaying the other. Salts and
+quartz as well as some coal and pumicestone still appear: the bars of
+the river are composed principally of gravel; the river low grounds are
+narrow, and afford scarcely any timber; nor is there much pine on the
+hills. The buffaloe have now become scarce: we saw a polecat this
+evening, which was the first for several days: in the course of the day
+we also saw several herds of the big-horned animals among the steep
+cliffs on the north, and killed several of them. At the distance of
+eighteen miles we encamped on the south, and the next morning,
+
+Sunday, 26th, proceeded on at an early hour by means of the towline,
+using our oars merely in passing the river, to take advantage of the
+best banks. There are now scarcely any low grounds on the river, the
+hills being high and in many places pressing on both sides to the verge
+of the water. The black rock has given place to a very soft sandstone,
+which seems to be washed away fast by the river, and being thrown into
+the river renders its navigation more difficult than it was yesterday:
+above this sandstone, and towards the summits of the hills, a hard
+freestone of a yellowish brown colour shows itself in several stratas of
+unequal thickness, frequently overlaid or incrusted by a thin stratum of
+limestone, which seems to be formed of concreted shells. At eight and a
+quarter miles we came to the mouth of a creek on the north, thirty yards
+wide, with some running water and a rocky bed: we called it Windsor
+creek, after one of the party. Four and three quarter miles beyond this
+we came to another creek in a bend to the north, which is twenty yards
+wide, with a handsome little stream of water: there is however no timber
+on either side of the river, except a few pines on the hills. Here we
+saw for the first time since we left the Mandans several soft shelled
+turtles, though this may be owing rather to the season of the year than
+to any scarcity of the animal. It was here that after ascending the
+highest summits of the hills on the north side of the river, that
+captain Lewis first caught a distant view of the Rock mountains, the
+object of all our hopes, and the reward of all our ambition. On both
+sides of the river and at no great distance from it, the mountains
+followed its course: above these, at the distance of fifty miles from
+us, an irregular range of mountains spread themselves from west to
+northwest from his position. To the north of these a few elevated
+points, the most remarkable of which bore north 65 degrees west,
+appeared above the horizon, and as the sun shone on the snows of their
+summits he obtained a clear and satisfactory view of those mountains
+which close on the Missouri the passage to the Pacific. Four and a half
+miles beyond this creek we came to the upper point of a small sand
+island. At the distance of five miles between high bluffs, we passed a
+very difficult rapid, reaching quite across the river, where the water
+is deep, the channel narrow, and gravel obstructing it on each side: we
+had great difficulty in ascending it, although we used both the rope and
+the pole, and doubled the crews: this is the most considerable rapid on
+the Missouri, and in fact the only place where there is a sudden
+descent: as we were labouring over them, a female elk with its fawn swam
+down through the waves, which ran very high, and obtained for the place
+the name of the Elk Rapids. Just above them is a small low ground of
+cottonwood trees, where, at twenty-two and a quarter miles we fixed our
+encampment, and were joined by captain Lewis, who had been on the hills
+during the afternoon.
+
+The country has now become desert and barren: the appearances of coal,
+burnt earth, pumicestone, salts, and quartz, continue as yesterday: but
+there is no timber except the thinly scattered pine and spruce on the
+summits of the hills, or along the sides. The only animals we have
+observed are the elk, the bighorn, and the hare, common in this country.
+In the plain where we lie are two Indian cabins made of sticks, and
+during the last few days we have passed several others in the points of
+timber on the river.
+
+Monday, 27. The wind was so high that we did not start till ten o'clock,
+and even then were obliged to use the line during the greater part of
+the day. The river has become very rapid with a very perceptible
+descent: its general width is about two hundred yards: the shoals too
+are more frequent, and the rocky points at the mouth of the gullies more
+troublesome to pass: great quantities of this stone lie in the river and
+on its banks, and seem to have fallen down as the rain washed away the
+clay and sand in which they were imbedded. The water is bordered by high
+rugged bluffs, composed of irregular but horizontal stratas of yellow
+and brown or black clay, brown and yellowish white sand, soft yellowish
+white sandstone: hard dark brown freestone; and also large round kidney
+formed irregular separate masses of a hard black ironstone, imbedded in
+the clay and sand; some coal or carbonated wood also makes its
+appearance in the cliffs, as do also its usual attendants the
+pumicestone and burnt earth. The salts and quartz are less abundant, and
+generally speaking the country is if possible more rugged and barren
+than that we passed yesterday; the only growth of the hills being a few
+pine, spruce, and dwarf cedar, interspersed with an occasional contrast
+once in the course of some miles, of several acres of level ground,
+which supply a scanty subsistence for a few little cottonwood trees.
+
+Soon after setting out we passed a small untimbered island on the south:
+at about seven miles we reached a considerable bend which the river
+makes towards the southeast, and in the evening, after making twelve and
+a half miles, encamped on the south near two dead cottonwood trees, the
+only timber for fuel which we could discover in the neighbourhood.
+
+Tuesday, 28. The weather was dark and cloudy; the air smoky, and there
+fell a few drops of rain. At ten o'clock we had again a slight
+sprinkling of rain, attended with distant thunder, which is the first we
+have heard since leaving the Mandans. We employed the line generally,
+with the addition of the pole at the ripples and rocky points, which we
+find more numerous and troublesome than those we passed yesterday. The
+water is very rapid round these points, and we are sometimes obliged to
+steer the canoes through the points of sharp rocks rising a few inches
+above the surface of the water, and so near to each other that if our
+ropes give way the force of the current drives the sides of the canoe
+against them, and must inevitably upset them or dash them to pieces.
+These cords are very slender, being almost all made of elkskin, and much
+worn and rotted by exposure to the weather: several times they gave way,
+but fortunately always in places where there was room for the canoe to
+turn without striking the rock; yet with all our precautions it was with
+infinite risk and labour that we passed these points. An Indian pole for
+building floated down the river, and was worn at one end as if dragged
+along the ground in travelling; several other articles were also brought
+down by the current, which indicate that the Indians are probably at no
+great distance above us, and judging from a football which resembles
+those used by the Minnetarees near the Mandans, we conjecture that they
+must be a band of the Minnetarees of fort de Prairie. The appearance of
+the river and the surrounding country continued as usual, till towards
+evening, at about fifteen miles, we reached a large creek on the north
+thirty-five yards wide, discharging some water, and named after one of
+our men Thompson's creek. Here the country assumed a totally different
+aspect; the hills retired on both sides from the river, which now
+spreads to more than three times its former size, and is filled with a
+number of small handsome islands covered with cottonwood. The low
+grounds on the river are again wide, fertile, and enriched with trees;
+those on the north are particularly wide, the hills being comparatively
+low and opening into three large vallies, which extend themselves for a
+considerable distance towards the north: these appearances of vegetation
+are delightful after the dreary hills over which we have passed, and we
+have now to congratulate ourselves at having escaped from the last
+ridges of the Black mountains. On leaving Thompson's creek we passed two
+small islands, and at twenty-three miles distance encamped among some
+timber on the north, opposite to a small creek, which we named Bull
+creek. The bighorn is in great quantities, and must bring forth their
+young at a very early season, as they are now half grown. One of the
+party saw a large bear also, but being at a distance from the river, and
+having no timber to conceal him, he would not venture to fire.
+
+Wednesday, 29. Last night we were alarmed by a new sort of enemy. A
+buffaloe swam over from the opposite side and to the spot where lay one
+of our canoes, over which he clambered to the shore: then taking fright
+he ran full speed up the bank towards our fires, and passed within
+eighteen inches of the heads of some of the men, before the sentinel
+could make him change his course: still more alarmed he ran down between
+four fires and within a few inches of the heads of the second row of the
+men, and would have broken into our lodge if the barking of the dog had
+not stopped him. He suddenly turned to the right and was out of sight in
+a moment, leaving us all in confusion, every one seizing his rifle and
+inquiring the cause of the alarm. On learning what had happened, we had
+to rejoice at suffering no more injury than the damage to some guns
+which were in the canoe which the buffaloe crossed.
+
+In the morning early we left our camp, and proceeded as usual by the
+cord. We passed an island and two sandbars, and at the distance of two
+and a half miles we came to a handsome river which discharges itself on
+the south, and which we ascended to the distance of a mile and a half:
+we called it Judith's river: it rises in the Rock mountains in about
+the same place with the Muscleshell and near the Yellowstone river. Its
+entrance is one hundred yards wide from one bank to the other, the water
+occupying about seventy-five yards, and in greater quantity than that of
+the Muscleshell river, and though more rapid equally navigable, there
+being no stones or rocks in the bed, which is composed entirely of
+gravel and mud with some sand: the water too is clearer than any which
+we have yet seen; and the low grounds, as far as we could discern, wider
+and more woody than those of the Missouri: along its banks we observed
+some box-alder intermixed with the cottonwood and the willow; the
+undergrowth consisting of rosebushes, honeysuckle, and a little red
+willow. There was a great abundance of the argalea or bighorned animals
+in the high country through which it passes, and a great number of the
+beaver in its waters: just above the entrance of it we saw the fires of
+one hundred and twenty-six lodges, which appeared to have been deserted
+about twelve or fifteen days, and on the other side of the Missouri a
+large encampment, apparently made by the same nation. On examining some
+moccasins which we found there, our Indian woman said that they did not
+belong to her own nation the Snake Indians, but she thought that they
+indicated a tribe on this side of the Rocky mountain, and to the north
+of the Missouri; indeed it is probable that these are the Minnetarees of
+fort de Prairie. At the distance of six and a half miles the hills again
+approach the brink of the river, and the stones and rocks washed down
+from them form a very bad rapid, with rocks and ripples more numerous
+and difficult than those we passed on the 27th and 28th; here the same
+scene was renewed, and we had again to struggle and labour to preserve
+our small craft from being lost. Near this spot are a few trees of the
+ash, the first we have seen for a great distance, and from which we
+named the place Ash Rapids. On these hills there is but little timber,
+but the salts, coal, and other mineral appearances continue. On the
+north we passed a precipice about one hundred and twenty feet high,
+under which lay scattered the fragments of at least one hundred carcases
+of buffaloes, although the water which had washed away the lower part of
+the hill must have carried off many of the dead. These buffaloe had been
+chased down the precipice in a way very common on the Missouri, and by
+which vast herds are destroyed in a moment. The mode of hunting is to
+select one of the most active and fleet young men, who is disguised by a
+buffaloe skin round his body; the skin of the head with the ears and
+horns fastened on his own head in such a way as to deceive the buffaloe:
+thus dressed, he fixes himself at a convenient distant between a herd of
+buffaloe and any of the river precipices, which sometimes extend for
+some miles. His companions in the meantime get in the rear and side of
+the herd, and at a given signal show themselves, and advance towards the
+buffaloe: they instantly take the alarm, and finding the hunters beside
+them, they run towards the disguised Indian or decoy, who leads them on
+at full speed toward the river, when suddenly securing himself in some
+crevice of the cliff which he had previously fixed on, the herd is left
+on the brink of the precipice: it is then in vain for the foremost to
+retreat or even to stop; they are pressed on by the hindmost rank, who
+seeing no danger but from the hunters, goad on those before them till
+the whole are precipitated and the shore is strewn with their dead
+bodies. Sometimes in this perilous seduction the Indian is himself
+either trodden under root by the rapid movements of the buffaloe, or
+missing his footing in the cliff is urged down the precipice by the
+falling herd. The Indians then select as much meat as they wish, and the
+rest is abandoned to the wolves, and create a most dreadful stench. The
+wolves who had been feasting on these carcases were very fat, and so
+gentle that one of them was killed with an esponton. Above this place we
+came to for dinner at the distance of seventeen miles, opposite to a
+bold running river of twenty yards wide, and falling in on the south.
+From the objects we had just passed we called this stream Slaughter
+river. Its low grounds are narrow, and contain scarcely any timber. Soon
+after landing it began to blow and rain, and as there was no prospect of
+getting wood for fuel farther on, we fixed our camp on the north, three
+quarters of a mile above Slaughter river. After the labours of the day
+we gave to each man a dram, and such was the effect of long abstinence
+from spirituous liquors, that from the small quantity of half a gill of
+rum, several of the men were considerably affected by it, and all very
+much exhilirated. Our game to-day consisted of an elk and two beaver.
+
+Thursday, 30. The rain which commenced last evening continued with
+little intermission till eleven this morning, when the high wind which
+accompanied it having abated, we set out. More rain has now fallen than
+we have had since the 1st of September last, and many circumstances
+indicate our approach to a climate differing considerably from that of
+the country through which we have been passing: the air of the open
+country is astonishingly dry and pure. Observing that the case of our
+sextant, though perfectly seasoned, shrank and the joints opened, we
+tried several experiments, by which it appeared that a tablespoon full
+of water exposed in a saucer to the air would evaporate in thirty-six
+hours, when the mercury did not stand higher than the temperate point at
+the greatest heat of the day. The river, notwithstanding the rain, is
+much clearer than it was a few days past; but we advance with great
+labour and difficulty; the rapid current, the ripples and rocky points
+rendering the navigation more embarrassing than even that of yesterday,
+in addition to which the banks are now so slippery after the rain, that
+the men who draw the canoes can scarcely walk, and the earth and stone
+constantly falling down the high bluffs make it dangerous to pass under
+them; still however we are obliged to make use of the cord, as the wind
+is strong ahead, the current too rapid for oars, and too deep for the
+pole. In this way we passed at the distance of five and a half miles a
+small rivulet in a bend on the north, two miles further an island on the
+same side, half a mile beyond which came to a grove of trees at the
+entrance of a run in a bend to the south, and encamped for the night on
+the northern shore. The eight miles which we made to-day cost us much
+trouble. The air was cold and rendered more disagreeable by the rain,
+which fell in several slight showers in the course of the day; our cords
+too broke several times, but fortunately without injury to the boats. On
+ascending the hills near the river, one of the party found that there
+was snow mixed with the rain on the heights: a little back of these the
+country becomes perfectly level on both sides of the river. There is now
+no timber on the hills, and only a few scattering cottonwood, ash,
+box-alder, and willows, along the water. In the course of the day we
+passed several encampments of Indians, the most recent of which seemed
+to have been evacuated about five weeks since, and from the several
+apparent dates we supposed that they were made by a band of about one
+hundred lodges who were travelling slowly up the river. Although no part
+of the Missouri from the Minnetarees to this place exhibit signs of
+permanent settlements, yet none seem exempt from the transient visits of
+hunting parties. We know that the Minnetarees of the Missouri extend
+their excursions on the south side of the river, as high as the
+Yellowstone; and the Assiniboins visit the northern side, most probably
+as high as Porcupine river. All the lodges between that place and the
+Rocky mountains we supposed to belong to the Minnetarees of fort de
+Prairie, who live on the south fork of the Saskashawan.
+
+Friday, 31. We proceeded in two periogues, leaving the canoes to bring
+on the meat of two buffaloes killed last evening. Soon after we set off
+it began to rain, and though it ceased at noon, the weather continued
+cloudy during the rest of the day. The obstructions of yesterday still
+remain and fatigue the men excessively: the banks are so slippery in
+some places and the mud so adhesive that they are unable to wear their
+moccasins; one fourth of the time they are obliged to be up to their
+armpits in the cold water, and sometimes walk for several yards over the
+sharp fragments of rocks which have fallen from the hills: all this
+added to the burden of dragging the heavy canoes is very painful, yet
+the men bear it with great patience and good humour. Once the rope of
+one of the periogues, the only one we had made of hemp, broke short, and
+the periogue swung and just touched a point of rock which almost overset
+her. At nine miles we came to a high wall of black rock rising from the
+water's edge on the south, above the cliffs of the river: this continued
+about a quarter of a mile, and was succeeded by a high open plain, till
+three miles further a second wall two hundred feet high rose on the same
+side. Three miles further a wall of the same kind about two hundred feet
+high and twelve in thickness, appeared to the north: these hills and
+river cliffs exhibit a most extraordinary and romantic appearance: they
+rise in most places nearly perpendicular from the water, to the height
+of between two and three hundred feet, and are formed of very white
+sandstone, so soft as to yield readily to the impression of water, in
+the upper part of which lie imbedded two or three thin horizontal
+stratas of white freestone insensible to the rain, and on the top is a
+dark rich loam, which forms a gradually ascending plain, from a mile to
+a mile and a half in extent, when the hills again rise abruptly to the
+height of about three hundred feet more. In trickling down the cliffs,
+the water has worn the soft sandstone into a thousand grotesque figures,
+among which with a little fancy may be discerned elegant ranges of
+freestone buildings, with columns variously sculptured, and supporting
+long and elegant galleries, while the parapets are adorned with
+statuary: on a nearer approach they represent every form of elegant
+ruins; columns, some with pedestals and capitals entire, others
+mutilated and prostrate, and some rising pyramidally over each other
+till they terminate in a sharp point. These are varied by niches,
+alcoves, and the customary appearances of desolated magnificence: the
+allusion is increased by the number of martins, who have built their
+globular nests in the niches and hover over these columns; as in our
+country they are accustomed to frequent large stone structures. As we
+advance there seems no end to the visionary enchantment which surrounds
+us. In the midst of this fantastic scenery are vast ranges of walls,
+which seem the productions of art, so regular is the workmanship: they
+rise perpendicularly from the river, sometimes to the height of one
+hundred feet, varying in thickness from one to twelve feet, being
+equally broad at the top as below. The stones of which they are formed
+are black, thick, and durable, and composed of a large portion of earth,
+intermixed and cemented with a small quantity of sand, and a
+considerable proportion of talk or quartz. These stones are almost
+invariably regular parallelipeds of unequal sizes in the wall, but
+equally deep, and laid regularly in ranges over each other like bricks,
+each breaking and covering the interstice of the two on which it rests:
+but though the perpendicular interstice be destroyed, the horizontal one
+extends entirely through the whole work: the stones too are proportioned
+to the thickness of the wall in which they are employed, being largest
+in the thickest walls. The thinner walls are composed of a single depth
+of the paralleliped, while the thicker ones consist of two or more
+depths: these walls pass the river at several places, rising from the
+water's edge much above the sandstone bluffs which they seem to
+penetrate; thence they cross in a straight line on either side of the
+river, the plains over which they tower to the height of from ten to
+seventy feet, until they lose themselves in the second range of hills:
+sometimes they run parallel in several ranges near to each other,
+sometimes intersect each other at right angles, and have the appearance
+of walls of ancient houses or gardens.
+
+The face of some of these river hills, is composed of very excellent
+freestone of a light yellowish brown colour, and among the cliffs we
+found a species of pine which we had not yet seen, and differing from
+the Virginia pitchpine in having a shorter leaf, and a longer and more
+pointed cone. The coal appears only in small quantities, as do the burnt
+earth and pumicestone: the mineral salts have abated. Among the animals
+are a great number of the bighorn, a few buffaloe and elk, and some
+mule-deer, but none of the common deer nor any antelopes. We saw but
+could not procure a beautiful fox, of a colour varied with orange,
+yellow, white, and black, rather smaller than the common fox of this
+country, and about the same size as the red fox of the United States.
+
+The river to-day has been from about one hundred and fifty to two
+hundred and fifty yards wide, with but little timber. At the distance of
+two miles and a half from the last stone wall, is a stream on the north
+side, twenty-eight yards in width, and with some running water. We
+encamped just above its mouth having made eighteen miles.
+
+Saturday, June 1. The weather was cloudy with a few drops of rain. As we
+proceeded by the aid of our cord we found the river cliffs and bluffs
+not so high as yesterday, and the country more level. The timber too is
+in greater abundance on the river, though there is no wood on the high
+ground; coal however appears in the bluffs. The river is from two
+hundred to two hundred and fifty feet wide, the current more gentle, the
+water becoming still clearer and fewer rocky points and shoals than we
+met yesterday, though those which we did encounter were equally
+difficult to pass. Game is by no means in such plenty as below; all that
+we obtained were one bighorn, and a mule-deer though we saw in the
+plains a quantity of buffaloe, particularly near a small lake about
+eight miles from the river to the south. Notwithstanding the wind was
+ahead all day, we dragged the canoes along the distance of twenty-three
+miles. At fourteen and a quarter miles, we came to a small island
+opposite a bend of the river to the north: two and a half miles to the
+upper point of a small island on the north; five miles to another island
+on the south side and opposite to a bluff. In the next two miles we
+passed an island on the south, a second beyond it on the north, and
+reached near a high bluff on the north a third on which we encamped.
+In the plains near the river are the chokecherry, yellow and red
+currant-bushes, as well as the wild rose and prickly pear, both of which
+are now in bloom. From the tops of the river hills, which are lower
+than usual, we enjoyed a delightful view of the rich fertile plains on
+both sides, in many places extending from the river cliffs to a great
+distance back. In these plains we meet occasionally large banks of pure
+sand, which were driven apparently by the southwest winds, and there
+deposited. The plains are more fertile some distance from the river
+than near its banks, where the surface of the earth is very generally
+strewed with small pebbles, which appear to be smoothed and worn by the
+agitation of the waters with which they were no doubt once covered. A
+mountain or part of the North mountain approaches the river within
+eight or ten miles, bearing north from our encampment of last evening;
+and this morning a range of high mountains bearing S.W. from us and
+apparently running to the westward, are seen at a great distance covered
+with snow. In the evening we had a little more rain.
+
+Sunday 2. The wind blew violently last night, and a slight shower of
+rain fell, but this morning was fair. We set out at an early hour, and
+although the wind was ahead by means of the cord went on much better
+than for the last two days, as the banks were well calculated for
+towing. The current of the river is strong but regular, its timber
+increases in quantity, the low grounds become more level and extensive,
+and the bluffs on the river are lower than usual. In the course of the
+day we had a small shower of rain, which lasted a few minutes only. As
+the game is very abundant we think it necessary to begin a collection
+of hides for the purpose of making a leathern boat, which we intend
+constructing shortly. The hunters who were out the greater part of the
+day brought in six elk, two buffaloe, two mule-deer and a bear. This
+last animal had nearly cost us the lives of two of our hunters who were
+together when he attacked them: one of them narrowly escaped being
+caught, and the other after running a considerable distance, concealed
+himself in some thick bushes, and while the bear was in quick pursuit of
+his hiding place, his companion came up and fortunately shot the animal
+through the head.
+
+At six and at half miles we reached an island on the northern side; one
+mile and a quarter thence is a timbered low ground on the south: and in
+the next two and three quarter miles we passed three small islands, and
+came to a dark bluff on the south: within the following mile are two
+small islands on the same side. At three and a quarter miles we reached
+the lower part of a much larger island near a northern point, and as we
+coasted along its side, within two miles passed a smaller island, and
+half a mile above reached the head of another. All these islands are
+small, and most of them contain some timber. Three quarters of a mile
+beyond the last, and at the distance of eighteen miles from our
+encampment, we came to for the night in a handsome low cottonwood plain
+on the south, where we remained for the purpose of making some celestial
+observations during the night, and of examining in the morning a large
+river which comes in opposite to us. Accordingly at an early hour,
+
+Monday, 3d, we crossed and fixed our camp in the point, formed by the
+junction of the river with the Missouri. It now became an interesting
+question which of these two streams is what the Minnetarees call
+Ahmateahza or the Missouri, which they described as approaching very
+near to the Columbia. On our right decision much of the fate of the
+expedition depends; since if after ascending to the Rocky mountains or
+beyond them, we should find that the river we were following did not
+come near the Columbia, and be obliged to return; we should not only
+lose the travelling season, two months of which had already elapsed, but
+probably dishearten the men so much as to induce them either to abandon
+the enterprise, or yield us a cold obedience instead of the warm and
+zealous support which they had hitherto afforded us. We determined,
+therefore, to examine well before we decided on our future course; and
+for this purpose despatched two canoes with three men up each of the
+streams with orders to ascertain the width, depth, and rapidity of the
+current, so as to judge of their comparative bodies of water. At the
+same time parties were sent out by land to penetrate the country, and
+discover from the rising grounds, if possible, the distant bearings of
+the two rivers; and all were directed to return towards evening. While
+they were gone we ascended together the high grounds in the fork of
+these two rivers, whence we had a very extensive prospect of the
+surrounding country: on every side it was spread into one vast plain
+covered with verdure, in which innumerable herds of buffaloe were
+roaming, attended by their enemies the wolves: some flocks of elk also
+were seen, and the solitary antelopes were scattered with their young
+over the face of the plain. To the south was a range of lofty mountains,
+which we supposed to be a continuation of the South mountain, stretching
+themselves from southeast to northwest, and terminating abruptly about
+southwest from us. These were partially covered with snow; but at a
+great distance behind them was a more lofty ridge completely covered
+with snow, which seemed to follow the same direction as the first,
+reaching from west to the north of northwest, where their snowy tops
+were blended with the horizon. The direction of the rivers could not
+however be long distinguished, as they were soon lost in the extent of
+the plain. On our return we continued our examination; the width of the
+north branch is two hundred yards, that of the south is three hundred
+and seventy-two. The north, although narrower and with a gentler
+current, is deeper than the south: its waters too are of the same
+whitish brown colour, thickness, and turbidness: they run in the same
+boiling and rolling manner which has uniformly characterized the
+Missouri; and its bed is composed of some gravel, but principally mud.
+The south fork is deeper, but its waters are perfectly transparent: its
+current is rapid, but the surface smooth and unruffled; and its bed too
+is composed of round and flat smooth stones like those of rivers issuing
+from a mountainous country. The air and character of the north fork so
+much resemble those of the Missouri that almost all the party believe
+that to be the true course to be pursued. We however, although we have
+given no decided opinion, are inclined to think otherwise, because,
+although this branch does give the colour and character to the Missouri,
+yet these very circumstances induce an opinion that it rises in and runs
+through an open plain country, since if it came from the mountains it
+would be clearer, unless, which from the position of the country is
+improbable, it passed through a vast extent of low ground after leaving
+them: we thought it probable that it did not even penetrate the Rocky
+mountains, but drew it sources from the open country towards the lower
+and middle parts of the Saskashawan, in a direction north of this place.
+What embarrasses us most is, that the Indians who appeared to be well
+acquainted with the geography of the country, have not mentioned this
+northern river; for "the river which scolds at all others," as it is
+termed, must be according to their account one of the rivers which we
+have passed; and if this north fork be the Missouri, why have they not
+designated the south branch which they must also have passed, in order
+to reach the great falls which they mention on the Missouri. In the
+evening our parties returned, after ascending the rivers in canoes for
+some distance, then continuing on foot, just leaving themselves time to
+return by night. The north fork was less rapid, and therefore afforded
+the easiest navigation: the shallowest water of the north was five feet
+deep, that of the south six feet. At two and a half miles up the north
+fork is a small river coming in on the left or western side, sixty feet
+wide, with a bold current three feet in depth. The party by land had
+gone up the south fork in a straight line, somewhat north of west for
+seven miles, where they discovered that this little river came within
+one hundred yards of the south fork, and on returning down it found it a
+handsome stream, with as much timber as either of the larger rivers,
+consisting of the narrow and wide-leafed cottonwood, some birch and
+box-alder, amid undergrowth of willows, rosebushes, and currants: they
+also saw on this river a great number of elk and some beaver.
+
+All these accounts were however very far from deciding the important
+question of our future route, and we therefore determined each of us to
+ascend one of the rivers during a day and a half's march, or farther if
+necessary, for our satisfaction. Our hunters killed two buffaloe, six
+elk, and four deer to-day. Along the plains near the junction, are to be
+found the prickly pear in great quantities; the chokecherry is also very
+abundant in the river low grounds, as well as the ravines along the
+river bluffs; the yellow and red currants are not yet ripe; the
+gooseberry is beginning to ripen, and the wildrose which now covers all
+the low grounds near the rivers is in full bloom. The fatigues of the
+last few days have occasioned some falling off in the appearance of the
+men, who not having been able to wear moccasins, had their feet much
+bruised and mangled in passing over the stones and rough ground. They
+are however perfectly cheerful, and have an undiminished ardour for the
+expedition.
+
+Tuesday, June 4. At the same hour this morning captain Lewis and captain
+Clarke set out to explore the two rivers: captain Lewis with six men
+crossed the north fork near the camp, below a small island from which
+he took a course N. 30 degrees W. for four and a half miles to a
+commanding eminence. Here we observed that the North mountain, changing
+its direction parallel to the Missouri, turned towards the north and
+terminated abruptly at the distance of about thirty miles, the point of
+termination bearing N. 48 degrees E. The South mountain too diverges to
+the south, and terminates abruptly, its extremity bearing S. 8 degrees
+W. distant about twenty miles: to the right of, and retreating from this
+extremity, is a separate mountain at the distance of thirty-five miles
+in a direction S. 38 degrees W. which from its resemblance to the roof
+of a barn, we called the Barn mountain. The north fork, which is now on
+the left, makes a considerable bend to the northwest, and on its western
+border a range of hills about ten miles long, and bearing from this spot
+N. 60 degrees W. runs parallel with it: north of this range of hills is
+an elevated point of the river bluff on its south side, bearing N. 72
+degrees W. about twelve miles from us; towards this he directed his
+course across a high, level, dry open plain; which in fact embraces the
+whole country to the foot of the mountains. The soil is dark, rich, and
+fertile, yet the grass by no means so luxuriant as might have been
+expected, for it is short and scarcely more than sufficient to cover the
+ground. There are vast quantities of prickly pears, and myriads of
+grasshoppers, which afford food for a species of curlew which is in
+great numbers in the plain. He then proceeded up the river to the point
+of observation they had fixed on; from which he went two miles N. 15
+degrees W. to a bluff point on the north side of the river: thence his
+course was N. 30 degrees W. for two miles to the entrance of a large
+creek on the south. The part of the river along which he passed is from
+forty to sixty yards wide, the current strong, the water deep and
+turbid, the banks falling in, the salts, coal and mineral appearances
+are as usual, and in every respect, except as to size, this river
+resembles the Missouri. The low grounds are narrow but well supplied
+with wood: the bluffs are principally of dark brown yellow, and some
+white clay with freestone in some places. From this point the river bore
+N. 20 degrees E. to a bluff on the south, at the distance of twelve
+miles: towards this he directed his course, ascending the hills which
+are about two hundred feet high, and passing through plains for three
+miles, till he found the dry ravines so steep and numerous that he
+resolved to return to the river and follow its banks. He reached it
+about four miles from the beginning of his course, and encamped on the
+north in a bend among some bushes which sheltered the party from the
+wind: the air was very cold, the northwest wind high, and the rain wet
+them to the skin. Besides the game just mentioned, he observed buffaloe,
+elk, wolves, foxes, and we got a blaireau and a weasel, and wounded a
+large brown bear, whom it was too late to pursue. Along the river are
+immense quantities of roses which are now in full bloom, and which make
+the low grounds a perfect garden.
+
+Wednesday 5. The rain fell during the greater part of the last night,
+and in the morning the weather was cloudy and cold, with a high
+northwest wind: at sunrise he proceeded up the river eight miles to the
+bluff on the left side, towards which he had been directing his course
+yesterday. Here he found the bed of a creek twenty-five yards wide at
+the entrance, with some timber, but no water, notwithstanding the rain:
+it is, indeed, astonishing to observe the vast quantities of water
+absorbed by the soil of the plains, which being opened in large crevices
+presents a fine rich loam: at the mouth of this stream (which he called
+Lark creek) the bluffs are very steep and approach the river so that he
+ascended them, and crossing the plains reached the river, which from the
+last point bore N. 50 degrees W: four miles from this place it extended
+north two miles. Here he discovered a lofty mountain standing alone at
+the distance of more than eighty miles in the direction of N. 30 degrees
+W. and which from its conical figure he called Tower mountain. He then
+proceeded on these two hills and afterwards in different courses six
+miles, when he again changed for a western course across a deep bend
+along the south side: in making this passage over the plains he found
+them like those of yesterday, level and beautiful, with great quantities
+of buffaloes, and some wolves, foxes, and antelopes, and intersected
+near the river by deep ravines. Here at the distance of from one to nine
+miles from the river, he met the largest village of barking squirrels
+which we had yet seen: for he passed a skirt of their territory for
+seven miles. He also saw near the hills a flock of the mountain cock or
+a large species of heath hen with a long pointed tail, which the Indians
+below had informed us were common among the Rock mountains. Having
+finished his course of ten miles west across a bend, he continued two
+miles N. 80 degrees W. and from that point discovered some lofty
+mountains to the northwest of Tower mountain and bearing N. 65 degrees
+W. at eighty or one hundred miles distance: Here he encamped on the
+north side in a handsome low ground, on which were several old stick
+lodges: there had been but little timber on the river in the forepart of
+the day, but now there is a greater quantity than usual. The river
+itself is about eighty yards wide, from six to ten feet deep, and has a
+strong steady current. The party had killed five elk, and a mule-deer;
+and by way of experiment roasted the burrowing squirrels, which they
+found to be well flavoured and tender.
+
+Thursday 6. Captain Lewis was now convinced that this river pursued a
+direction too far north for our route to the Pacific, and therefore
+resolved to return; but waited till noon to take a meridian altitude.
+The clouds, however, which had gathered during the latter part of the
+night continued and prevented the observation: part of the men were sent
+forward to a commanding eminence, six miles S. 70 degrees W; from which
+they saw at the distance of about fifteen miles S. 80 degrees W. a point
+of the south bluff of the river, which thence bore northwardly. In their
+absence two rafts had been prepared, and when they returned about noon,
+the party embarked: but they soon found that the rafts were so small and
+slender that the baggage was wet, and therefore it was necessary to
+abandon them, and go by land. They therefore crossed the plains, and at
+the distance of twelve miles came to the river, through a cold storm
+from the northeast, accompanied by showers of rain. The abruptness of
+the cliffs compelled them, after going a few miles, to leave the river
+and meet the storm in the plains. Here they directed their course too
+far northward, in consequence of which they did not meet the river till
+late at night, after having travelled twenty-three miles since noon, and
+halted at a little below the entrance of Lark creek. They had the good
+fortune to kill two buffaloe which supplied them with supper, but spent
+a very uncomfortable night without any shelter from the rain, which
+continued till morning,
+
+Friday 7, when at an early hour they continued down the river. The route
+was extremely unpleasant, as the wind was high from the N.E. accompanied
+with rain, which made the ground so slippery that they were unable to
+walk over the bluffs which they had passed on ascending the river. The
+land is the most thirsty we have ever seen; notwithstanding all the rain
+which has fallen, the earth is not wet for more than two inches deep,
+and resembles thawed ground; but if it requires more water to saturate
+it than the common soils, on the other hand it yields its moisture with
+equal difficulty. In passing along the side of one of these bluffs at a
+narrow pass thirty yards in length, captain Lewis slipped, and but for a
+fortunate recovery, by means of his espontoon, would then have been
+precipitated into the river over a precipice of about ninety feet. He
+had just reached a spot where by the assistance of his espontoon he
+could stand with tolerable safety, when he heard a voice behind him cry
+out, good God captain what shall I do? he turned instantly and found it
+was Windsor who had lost his foothold about the middle of the narrow
+pass, and had slipped down to the very verge of the precipice where he
+lay on his belly, with his right arm and leg over the precipice, while
+with the other leg and arm he was with difficulty holding on to keep
+himself from being dashed to pieces below. His dreadful situation was
+instantly perceived by captain Lewis, who stifling his alarm, calmly
+told him that he was in no danger; that he should take his knife out of
+his belt with the right hand, and dig a hole in the side of the bluff to
+receive his right foot. With great presence of mind he did this, and
+then raised himself on his knees; captain Lewis then told him to take
+off his moccasins and come forward on his hands and knees, holding the
+knife in one hand and his rifle in the other. He immediately crawled in
+this way till he came to a secure spot. The men who had not attempted
+this passage, were ordered to return and wade the river at the foot of
+the bluff, where they found the water breast high. This adventure taught
+them the danger of crossing the slippery heights of the river; but as
+the plains were intersected by deep ravines almost as difficult to pass,
+they continued down the river, sometimes in the mud of the low grounds,
+sometimes up to their arms in the water, and when it became too deep to
+wade, they cut footholds with their knives in the sides of the banks. In
+this way they travelled through the rain, mud, and water, and having
+made only eighteen miles during the whole day, encamped in an old Indian
+lodge of sticks, which afforded them a dry shelter. Here they cooked
+part of six deer they had killed in the course of their walk, and having
+eaten the only morsel they had tasted during the whole day slept
+comfortably on some willow boughs.
+
+
+
+
+                                CHAPTER X.
+
+     Return of captain Lewis--Account of captain Clarke's researches
+     with his exploring party--Perilous situation of one of his
+     party--Tansy river described--The party still believing the
+     southern fork the Missouri, captain Lewis resolves to ascend
+     it--Mode of making a place to deposit provisions, called
+     cache--Captain Lewis explores the southern fork--Falls of the
+     Missouri discovered, which ascertains the question--Romantic
+     scenery of the surrounding country--Narrow escape of captain
+     Lewis--The main body under captain Clarke approach within five
+     miles of the falls, and prepare for making a portage over the
+     rapids.
+
+
+Saturday 8. It continued to rain moderately all last night, and the
+morning was cloudy till about ten o'clock, when it cleared off, and
+became a fine day. They breakfasted about sunrise and then proceeded
+down the river in the same way as they had done yesterday, except that
+the travelling was somewhat better, as they had not so often to wade,
+though they passed some very dangerous bluffs. The only timber to be
+found is in the low grounds which are occasionally on the river, and
+these are the haunts of innumerable birds, who, when the sun began to
+shine, sang very delightfully. Among these birds they distinguished the
+brown thrush, robin, turtledove, linnet, goldfinch, the large and small
+blackbird, the wren, and some others. As they came along, the whole of
+the party were of opinion that this river was the true Missouri, but
+captain Lewis being fully persuaded that it was neither the main stream,
+nor that which it would be advisable to ascend, gave it the name of
+Maria's river. After travelling all day they reached the camp at five
+o'clock in the afternoon, and found captain Clarke and the party very
+anxious for their safety, as they had staid two days longer than had
+been expected, and as captain Clarke had returned at the appointed time,
+it was feared that they had met with some accident.
+
+Captain Clarke on setting out with five men on the 4th, went seven
+miles on a course S. 25 degrees W. to a spring; thence he went S. 20
+degrees W. for eight miles to the river where was an island, from which
+he proceeded in a course N. 45 degrees W. and approached the river at
+the distance of three, five, and thirteen miles, at which place they
+encamped in an old Indian lodge made of sticks and bark. In crossing the
+plains they observed several herds of buffaloe, some muledeer, antelopes
+and wolves. The river is rapid and closely hemmed in by high bluffs,
+crowded with bars of gravel, with little timber on the low grounds, and
+none on the highlands. Near the camp this evening, a white bear attacked
+one of the men, whose gun happening to be wet, would not go off; he
+instantly made towards a tree, but was so closely pursued, that as he
+ascended the tree he struck the bear with his foot. The bear not being
+able to climb, waited till he should be forced to come down; and as the
+rest of the party were separated from him by a perpendicular cliff of
+rocks, which they could not descend, it was not in their power to give
+him any assistance: fortunately however at last the bear became frighted
+at their cries and firing, and released the man. In the afternoon it
+rained, and during the night there fell both rain and snow, and in the
+morning.
+
+June 5, the hills to the S.E. were covered with snow, and the rain
+continued. They proceeded on in a course N. 20 degrees W. near the river
+several miles, till at the distance of eleven miles they reached a
+ridge, from the top of which on the north side they could plainly
+discern a mountain to the S. and W. at a great distance covered with
+snow; a high ridge projecting from the mountains to the southeast
+approaches the river on the southeast side, forming some cliffs of dark
+hard stone. They also saw that the river ran for a great distance west
+of south, with a rapid current, from which as well as its continuing of
+the same width and depth, captain Clarke thought it useless to advance
+any further, and therefore returned across the level plain in a
+direction north 30 degrees east, and reached at the distance of twenty
+miles the little river which is already mentioned as falling into the
+north fork, and to which they gave the name of Tansy river, from the
+great quantity of that herb growing on its banks. Here they dined, and
+then proceeded on a few miles by a place where the Tansy breaks through
+a high ridge on its north side and encamped.
+
+The next day, 6th, the weather was cold, raw and cloudy, with a high
+northeast wind. They set out early, down the Tansy, whose low grounds
+resemble precisely, except as to extent, those of the Missouri before it
+branches, containing a great proportion of a species of cottonwood, with
+a leaf like that of the wild cherry. After halting at twelve o'clock for
+dinner, they ascended the plain, and at five o'clock reached the camp
+through the rain, which had fallen without intermission since noon.
+During his absence the party had been occupied in dressing skins, and
+being able to rest themselves were nearly freed from their lameness and
+swollen feet. All this night and the whole of the following day, 7th, it
+rained, the wind being from the southwest off the mountains: yet the
+rivers are falling, and the thermometer 40 degrees above 0. The rain
+continued till the next day, 8th, at ten o'clock, when it cleared off,
+and the weather became fine, the wind high from the southwest. The
+rivers at the point have now fallen six inches since our arrival, and
+this morning the water of the south fork became of a reddish brown
+colour, while the north branch continued of its usual whitish
+appearance. The mountains to the south are covered with snow.
+
+Sunday, 9th. We now consulted upon the course to be pursued. On
+comparing our observations, we were more than ever convinced of what we
+already suspected, that Mr. Arrowsmith is incorrect in laying down in
+the chain of Rocky mountains one remarkable mountain called the Tooth,
+nearly as far south as 45 degrees, and said to be so marked from the
+discoveries of Mr. Fidler. We are now within one hundred miles of the
+Rocky* mountains and in the latitude of 47 degrees 24' 12" 8, and
+therefore it is highly improbable that the Missouri should make such a
+bend to the south before it reaches the Rocky mountains, as to have
+suffered Mr. Fidler to come as low as 45 degrees along the eastern
+borders without touching that river: yet the general course of Maria's
+river from this place for fifty-nine miles, as far as captain Lewis
+ascended, was north 69 degrees west, and the south branch, or what we
+consider the Missouri, which captain Clarke had examined as far as
+forty-five miles in a straight line, ran in a course south 29 degrees
+west, and as far as it could be seen went considerably west of south,
+whence we conclude that the Missouri itself enters the Rocky mountains
+to the north of 45 degrees. In writing to the president from our winter
+quarters, we had already taken the liberty of advancing the southern
+extremity of Mr. Fidler's discoveries about a degree to the northward,
+and this from Indian information as to the bearing of the point at which
+the Missouri enters the mountain; but we think actual observation will
+place it one degree still further to the northward. This information of
+Mr. Fidler however, incorrect as it is, affords an additional reason for
+not pursuing Maria's river; for if he came as low even as 47 degrees and
+saw only small streams coming down from the mountains, it is to be
+presumed that these rivulets do not penetrate the Rocky mountains so far
+as to approach any navigable branch of the Columbia, and they are most
+probably the remote waters of some northern branch of the Missouri. In
+short, being already in latitude 47 degrees 24' we cannot reasonably
+hope by going farther to the northward to find between this place and
+the Saskashawan any stream which can, as the Indians assure us the
+Missouri does, possess a navigable current for some distance in the
+Rocky mountains: the Indians had assured us also that the water of the
+Missouri was nearly transparent at the falls; this is the case with the
+southern branch; that the falls lay a little to the south of sunset
+from them; this too is in favour of the southern fork, for it bears
+considerably south of this place which is only a few minutes to the
+northward of fort Mandan; that the falls are below the Rocky mountains
+and near the northern termination of one range of those mountains: now
+there is a ridge of mountains which appear behind the South mountains
+and terminates to the southwest of us, at a sufficient distance from the
+unbroken chain of the Rocky mountains to allow space for several falls,
+indeed we fear for too many of them. If too the Indians had ever passed
+any stream as large as this southern fork on their way up the Missouri,
+they would have mentioned it; so that their silence seems to prove that
+this branch must be the Missouri. The body of water also which it
+discharges must have been acquired from a considerable distance in the
+mountains, for it could not have been collected in the parched plains
+between the Yellowstone and the Rocky mountains, since that country
+could not supply nourishment for the dry channels which we passed on the
+south, and the travels of Mr. Fidler forbid us to believe that it could
+have been obtained from the mountains towards the northwest.
+
+These observations which satisfied our mind completely we communicated
+to the party: but every one of them were of a contrary opinion; and much
+of their belief depended on Crusatte, an experienced waterman on the
+Missouri, who gave it as his decided judgment that the north fork was
+the genuine Missouri. The men therefore mentioned that although they
+would most cheerfully follow us wherever we should direct, yet they were
+afraid that the south fork would soon terminate in the Rocky mountains
+and leave us at a great distance from the Columbia. In order that
+nothing might be omitted which could prevent our falling into an error,
+it was agreed that one of us should ascend the southern branch by land
+until we reached either the falls or the mountains. In the meantime in
+order to lighten our burdens as much as possible, we determined to
+deposit here one of the periogues and all the heavy baggage which we
+could possibly spare, as well as some provision, salt, powder, and
+tools: this would at once lighten the other boats, and give them the
+crew which had been employed on board the periogue.
+
+Monday, 10. The weather being fair and pleasant we dried all our baggage
+and merchandize and made our deposit. These holes or _caches_ as they
+are called by the Missouri traders are very common, particularly among
+those who deal with the Sioux, as the skins and merchandize will keep
+perfectly sound for years, and are protected from robbery: our cache is
+built in this manner: In the high plain on the north side of the
+Missouri and forty yards from a steep bluff, we chose a dry situation,
+and then describing a small circle of about twenty inches diameter,
+removed the sod as gently and carefully as possible: the hole is then
+sunk perpendicularly for a foot deep, or more if the ground be not firm.
+It is now worked gradually wider as they descend, till at length it
+becomes six or seven feet deep, shaped nearly like a kettle or the lower
+part of a large still with the bottom somewhat sunk at the centre. As
+the earth is dug it is handed up in a vessel and carefully laid on a
+skin or cloth, in which it is carried away and usually thrown into the
+river or concealed so as to leave no trace of it. A floor of three or
+four inches in thickness is then made of dry sticks, on which is thrown
+hay or a hide perfectly dry. The goods being well aired and dried are
+laid on this floor, and prevented from touching the wall by other dried
+sticks in proportion as the merchandize is stowed away: when the hole is
+nearly full, a skin is laid over the goods, and on this earth is thrown
+and beaten down until with the addition of the sod first removed the
+whole is on a level with the ground, and there remains not the slightest
+appearance of an excavation. In addition to this we made another of
+smaller dimensions, in which we placed all the baggage, some powder,
+and our blacksmith's tools, having previously repaired such of the tools
+we carry with us as require mending. To guard against accident, we hid
+two parcels of lead and powder in the two distinct places. The red
+periogue was drawn up on the middle of a small island at the entrance of
+Maria's river, and secured by being fastened to the trees from the
+effect of any floods. In the evening there was a high wind from the
+southwest accompanied with thunder and rain. We now made another
+observation of the meridian altitude of the sun, and found that the mean
+latitude of the entrance of Maria's river, as deduced from three
+observations, is 47 degrees 25' 17" 2 north. We saw a small bird like
+the blue thrush or catbird which we had not before met, and also
+observed that the beemartin or kingbird is common to this country
+although there are no bees here, and in fact we have not met with the
+honey-bee since leaving the Osage river.
+
+Tuesday 11. This morning captain Lewis with four men set out on their
+expedition up the south branch. They soon reached the point where the
+Tansy river approaches the Missouri, and observing a large herd of elk
+before them, descended and killed several which they hung up along the
+river so that the party in the boats might see them as they came along.
+They then halted for dinner; but captain Lewis who had been for some
+days afflicted with the dysentery, was now attacked with violent pains
+attended by a high fever and was unable to go on. He therefore encamped
+for the night under some willow boughs: having brought no medicine he
+determined to try an experiment with the small twigs of the chokecherry,
+which being stripped of their leaves and cut into pieces about two
+inches long were boiled in pure water, till they produced a strong black
+decoction of an astringent bitter taste; a pint of this he took at
+sunset, and repeated the dose an hour afterwards. By ten o'clock he was
+perfectly relieved from pain, a gentle perspiration ensued, his fever
+abated and in the morning he was quite recovered. One of the men caught
+several dozen fish of two species: the first is about nine inches long,
+of a white colour, round in shape; the mouth is beset both above and
+below with a rim of fine sharp teeth, the eye moderately large, the
+pupil dark, and the iris narrow, and of a yellowish brown colour: in
+form and size it resembles the white chub of the Potomac, though its
+head is proportionably smaller; they readily bite at meat or
+grasshoppers; but the flesh though soft and of a fine white colour is
+not highly flavoured. The second species is precisely of the form and
+about the size of the fish known by the name of the hickory shad or old
+wife, though it differs from it in having the outer edge of both the
+upper and lower jaw set with a rim of teeth, and the tongue and palate
+also are defended by long sharp teeth bending inwards, the eye is very
+large, the iris wide and of a silvery colour; they do not inhabit muddy
+water, and the flavour is much superior to that of the former species.
+Of the first kind we had seen a few before we reached Maria's river; but
+had found none of the last before we caught them in the Missouri above
+its junction with that river. The white cat continues as high as Maria's
+river, but they are scarce in this part of the river, nor have we caught
+any of them since leaving the Mandans which weighed more than six
+pounds.
+
+Of other game they saw a great abundance even in their short march of
+nine miles.
+
+Wednesday 12. This morning captain Lewis left the bank of the river in
+order to avoid the steep ravines which generally run from the shore to
+the distance of one or two miles in the plain: having reached the opened
+country he went for twelve miles in a course a little to the west of
+southwest, when the sun becoming warm by nine o'clock, he returned to
+the river in quest of water and to kill something for breakfast, there
+being no water in the plain, and the buffaloe discovering them before
+they came within gunshot took to flight. They reached the banks in a
+handsome open low ground with cottonwood, after three miles walk. Here
+they saw two large brown bears, and killed them both at the first fire,
+a circumstance which has never before occurred since we have seen that
+animal. Having made a meal of a part and hung the remainder on a tree
+with a note for captain Clarke, they again ascended the bluffs into the
+open plains. Here they saw great numbers of the burrowing squirrel, also
+some wolves, antelopes, muledeer, and vast herds of buffaloe. They soon
+crossed a ridge considerably higher than the surrounding plains, and
+from its top had a beautiful view of the Rocky mountains, which are now
+completely covered with snow: their general course is from southeast to
+the north of northwest, and they seem to consist of several ranges which
+successively rise above each other till the most distant mingles with
+the clouds. After travelling twelve miles they again met the river,
+where there was a handsome plain of cottonwood; and although it was not
+sunset, and they had only come twenty-seven miles, yet captain Lewis
+felt weak from his late disorder, and therefore determined to go no
+further that night. In the course of the day they killed a quantity of
+game, and saw some signs of otter as well as beaver, and many tracks of
+the brown bear: they also caught great quantities of the white fish
+mentioned yesterday. With the broad-leafed cottonwood, which has formed
+the principal timber of the Missouri, is here mixed another species
+differing from the first only in the narrowness of its leaf and the
+greater thickness of its bark. The leaf is long, oval, acutely pointed,
+about two and a half or three inches long and from three quarters of an
+inch to an inch in width; it is smooth and thick sometimes slightly
+grooved or channeled with the margin a little serrate, the upper disk of
+a common, the lower of a whitish green. This species seems to be
+preferred by the beaver to the broad-leaved, probably because the former
+affords a deeper and softer bark.
+
+Thursday 13. They left their encampment at sunrise, and ascending the
+river hills went for six miles in a course generally southwest, over a
+country which though more waving than that of yesterday may still be
+considered level. At the extremity of this course they overlooked a most
+beautiful plain, where were infinitely more buffaloe than we had ever
+before seen at a single view. To the southwest arose from the plain two
+mountains of a singular appearance and more like ramparts of high
+fortifications than works of nature. They are square figures with sides
+rising perpendicularly to the height of two hundred and fifty feet,
+formed of yellow clay, and the tops seemed to be level plains. Finding
+that the river here bore considerably to the south, and fearful of
+passing the falls before reaching the Rocky mountains, they now changed
+their course to the south, and leaving those insulated hills to the
+right proceeded across the plain. In this direction captain Lewis had
+gone about two miles when his ears were saluted with the agreeable sound
+of a fall of water, and as he advanced a spray which seemed driven by
+the high southwest wind arose above the plain like a column of smoke and
+vanished in an instant. Towards this point he directed his steps, and
+the noise increasing as he approached soon became too tremendous to be
+mistaken for any thing but the great falls of the Missouri. Having
+travelled seven miles after first hearing the sound he reached the falls
+about twelve o'clock, the hills as he approached were difficult of
+access and two hundred feet high: down these he hurried with impatience
+and seating himself on some rocks under the centre of the falls, enjoyed
+the sublime spectacle of this stupendous object which has since the
+creation had been lavishing its magnificence upon the desert, unknown to
+civilization.
+
+                 [Illustration: The Falls and Portage]
+
+The river immediately at its cascade is three hundred yards wide, and is
+pressed in by a perpendicular cliff on the left, which rises to about
+one hundred feet and extends up the stream for a mile; on the right the
+bluff is also perpendicular for three hundred yards above the falls.
+For ninety or a hundred yards from the left cliff, the water falls in
+one smooth even sheet, over a precipice of at least eighty feet. The
+remaining part of the river precipitates itself with a more rapid
+current, but being received as it falls by the irregular and somewhat
+projecting rocks below, forms a splendid prospect of perfectly white
+foam two hundred yards in length, and eighty in perpendicular elevation.
+This spray is dissipated into a thousand shapes, sometimes flying up in
+columns of fifteen or twenty feet, which are then oppressed by larger
+masses of the white foam, on all which the sun impresses the brightest
+colours of the rainbow. As it rises from the fall it beats with fury
+against a ledge of rocks which extend across the river at one hundred
+and fifty yards from the precipice. From the perpendicular cliff on the
+north, to the distance of one hundred and twenty yards, the rocks rise
+only a few feet above the water, and when the river is high the stream
+finds a channel across them forty yards wide, and near the higher parts
+of the ledge which then rise about twenty feet, and terminate abruptly
+within eighty or ninety yards of the southern side. Between them and the
+perpendicular cliff on the south, the whole body of water runs with
+great swiftness. A few small cedars grow near this ridge of rocks which
+serves as a barrier to defend a small plain of about three acres shaded
+with cottonwood, at the lower extremity of which is a grove of the same
+tree, where are several Indian cabins of sticks; below the point of them
+the river is divided by a large rock, several feet above the surface of
+the water, and extending down the stream for twenty yards. At the
+distance of three hundred yards from the same ridge is a second abutment
+of solid perpendicular rock about sixty feet high, projecting at right
+angles from the small plain on the north for one hundred and thirty-four
+yards into the river. After leaving this, the Missouri again spreads
+itself to its usual distance of three hundred yards, though with more
+than its ordinary rapidity.
+
+The hunters who had been sent out now returned loaded with buffaloe
+meat, and captain Lewis encamped for the night under a tree near the
+falls. The men were again despatched to hunt for food against the
+arrival of the party, and captain Lewis walked down the river to
+discover if possible some place where the canoes might be safely drawn
+on shore, in order to be transported beyond the falls. He returned
+however without discovering any such spot, the river for three miles
+below being one continued succession of rapids and cascades, overhung
+with perpendicular bluffs from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet
+high; in short, it seems to have worn itself a channel through the solid
+rock. In the afternoon they caught in the falls some of both kinds of
+the white fish, and half a dozen trout from sixteen to twenty-three
+inches long, precisely resembling in form and the position of its fins
+the mountain or speckled trout of the United States, except that the
+specks of the former are of a deep black, while those of the latter are
+of a red or gold colour: they have long sharp teeth on the palate and
+tongue, and generally a small speck of red on each side behind the front
+ventral fins; the flesh is of a pale yellowish red, or when in good
+order of a rose-coloured red.
+
+Friday 14. This morning one of the men was sent to captain Clarke with
+an account of the discovery of the falls, and after employing the rest
+in preserving the meat which had been killed yesterday, captain Lewis
+proceeded to examine the rapids above. From the falls he directed his
+course southwest up the river: after passing one continued rapid, and
+three small cascades, each three or four feet high, he reached at the
+distance of five miles a second fall. The river is about four hundred
+yards wide, and for the distance of three hundred throws itself over to
+the depth of nineteen feet, and so irregularly that he gave it the name
+of the Crooked falls. From the southern shore it extends obliquely
+upwards about one hundred and fifty yards, and then forms an acute angle
+downwards nearly to the commencement of four small islands close to the
+northern side. From the perpendicular pitch to these islands, a distance
+of more than one hundred yards, the water glides down a sloping rock
+with a velocity almost equal to that of its fall. Above this fall the
+river bends suddenly to the northward: while viewing this place captain
+Lewis heard a loud roar above him, and crossing the point of a hill for
+a few hundred yards, he saw one of the most beautiful objects in nature:
+the whole Missouri is suddenly stopped by one shelving rock, which
+without a single niche and with an edge as straight and regular as if
+formed by art, stretches itself from one side of the river to the other
+for at least a quarter of a mile. Over this it precipitates itself in an
+even uninterrupted sheet to the perpendicular depth of fifty feet,
+whence dashing against the rocky bottom it rushes rapidly down, leaving
+behind it a spray of the purest foam across the river. The scene which
+it presented was indeed singularly beautiful, since without any of the
+wild irregular sublimity of the lower falls, it combined all the regular
+elegances which the fancy of a painter would select to form a beautiful
+waterfall. The eye had scarcely been regaled with this charming
+prospect, when at the distance of half a mile captain Lewis observed
+another of a similar kind: to this he immediately hastened, and found a
+cascade stretching across the whole river for a quarter of a mile with a
+descent of fourteen feet, though the perpendicular pitch was only six
+feet. This too in any other neighborhood would have been an object of
+great magnificence, but after what he had just seen it became of
+secondary interest; his curiosity being however awakened, he determined
+to go on even should night overtake him to the head of the falls. He
+therefore pursued the southwest course of the river, which was one
+constant succession of rapids and small cascades, at every one of which
+the bluffs grew lower, or the bed of the river became more on a level
+with the plains. At the distance of two and a half miles he arrived at
+another cataract of twenty-six feet. The river is here six hundred
+yards wide, but the descent is not immediately perpendicular, though the
+river falls generally with a regular and smooth sheet; for about one
+third of the descent a rock protrudes to a small distance, receives the
+water in its passage and gives it a curve. On the south side is a
+beautiful plain a few feet above the level of the falls; on the north
+the country is more broken, and there is a hill not far from the river.
+Just below the falls is a little island in the middle of the river well
+covered with timber. Here on a cottonwood tree an eagle had fixed its
+nest, and seemed the undisputed mistress of a spot, to contest whose
+dominion neither man nor beast would venture across the gulfs that
+surround it, and which is further secured by the mist rising from the
+falls. This solitary bird could not escape the observation of the
+Indians who made the eagle's nest a part of their description of the
+falls, which now proves to be correct in almost every particular, except
+that they did not do justice to their height. Just above this is a
+cascade of about five feet, beyond which, as far as could be discerned,
+the velocity of the water seemed to abate. Captain Lewis now ascended
+the hill which was behind him, and saw from its top a delightful plain
+extending from the river to the base of the Snow mountains to the south
+and southwest. Along this wide level country the Missouri pursued its
+winding course, filled with water to its even and grassy banks, while
+about four miles above it was joined by a large river flowing from the
+northwest through a valley three miles in width, and distinguished by
+the timber which adorned its shores; the Missouri itself stretches to
+the south in one unruffled stream of water as if unconscious of the
+roughness it must soon encounter, and bearing on its bosom vast flocks
+of geese, while numerous herds of buffaloe are feeding on the plains
+which surround it.
+
+Captain Lewis then descended the hill, and directed his course towards
+the river falling in from the west. He soon met a herd of at least a
+thousand buffaloe, and being desirous of providing for supper shot one
+of them; the animal began to bleed, and captain Lewis who had forgotten
+to reload his rifle, was intently watching to see him fall, when he
+beheld a large brown bear who was stealing on him unperceived, and was
+already within twenty steps. In the first moment of surprise he lifted
+his rifle, but remembering instantly that it was not charged, and that
+he had not time to reload, he felt that there was no safety but in
+flight. It was in the open level plain, not a bush nor a tree within
+three hundred yards, the bank of the river sloping and not more than
+three feet high, so that there was no possible mode of concealment:
+captain Lewis therefore thought of retreating in a quick walk as fast as
+the bear advanced towards the nearest tree; but as soon as he turned the
+bear ran open mouth and at full speed upon him. Captain Lewis ran about
+eighty yards, but finding that the animal gained on him fast, it flashed
+on his mind that by getting into the water to such a depth that the bear
+would be obliged to attack him swimming, there was still some chance of
+his life, he therefore turned short, plunged into the river about waist
+deep, and facing about presented the point of his espontoon. The bear
+arrived at the water's edge within twenty feet of him, but as soon as he
+put himself in this position of defence, he seemed frightened, and
+wheeling about, retreated with as much precipitation as he had pursued.
+Very glad to be released from this danger, captain Lewis returned to the
+shore, and observed him run with great speed, sometimes looking back as
+if he expected to be pursued, till he reached the woods. He could not
+conceive the cause of the sudden alarm of the bear, but congratulated
+himself on his escape when he saw his own track torn to pieces by the
+furious animal, and learnt from the whole adventure never to suffer his
+rifle to be a moment unloaded. He now resumed his progress in the
+direction which the bear had taken towards the western river, and found
+it a handsome stream about two hundred yards wide, apparently deep,
+with a gentle current; its waters clear, and its banks, which were
+formed principally of dark brown and blue clay, are about the same
+height as those of the Missouri, that is from three to five feet. What
+was singular was that the river does not seem to overflow its banks at
+any season, while it might be presumed from its vicinity to the
+mountains, that the torrents arising from the melting of the snows,
+would sometimes cause it to swell beyond its limits. The contrary fact
+would induce a belief that the Rocky mountains yield their snows very
+reluctantly and equably to the sun, and are not often drenched by very
+heavy rains. This river is no doubt that which the Indians call Medicine
+river, which they mentioned as emptying into the Missouri, just above
+the falls. After examining Medicine river, captain Lewis set out at half
+after six o'clock in the evening on his return towards the camp, which
+he estimated at the distance of twelve miles. In going through the low
+grounds on Medicine river he met an animal which at a distance he
+thought was a wolf, but on coming within sixty paces, it proved to be
+some brownish yellow animal standing near its burrow, which, when he
+came nigh, crouched and seemed as if about to spring on him. Captain
+Lewis fired and the beast disappeared in its burrow. From the track and
+the general appearance of the animal he supposed it to be of the tiger
+kind. He then went on, but as if the beasts of the forests had conspired
+against him, three buffaloe bulls which were feeding with a large herd
+at the distance of half a mile, left their companions and ran at full
+speed towards him. He turned round, and unwilling to give up the field
+advanced towards them: when they came within a hundred yards, they
+stopped, looked at him for some time, and then retreated as they came.
+He now pursued his route in the dark, reflecting on the strange
+adventures and sights of the day which crowded on his mind so rapidly
+that he should have been inclined to believe it all enchantment if the
+thorns of the prickly pear piercing his feet did not dispel at every
+moment the illusion. He at last reached the party, who had been very
+anxious for his safety, and who had already decided on the route which
+each should take in the morning to look for him. Being much fatigued he
+supped and slept well during the night.
+
+Saturday, 15. The men were again sent out to bring in the game killed
+yesterday and to procure more: they also obtained a number of fine trout
+and several small catfish weighing about four pounds, and differing from
+the white catfish lower down the Missouri. On awaking this morning
+captain Lewis found a large rattlesnake coiled on the trunk of a tree
+under which he had been sleeping. He killed it, and found it like those
+we had seen before, differing from those of the Atlantic states, not in
+its colours but in the form and arrangement of them; it had one hundred
+and seventy-six scuta on the abdomen, and seventeen half-formed scuta on
+the tail. There is a heavy dew on the grass about the camp every
+morning, which no doubt proceeds from the mist of the falls, as it takes
+place no where in the plains nor on the river except here. The messenger
+sent to captain Clarke returned with information of his having arrived
+five miles below at a rapid, which he did not think it prudent to ascend
+and would wait till captain Lewis and his party rejoined him.
+
+On Tuesday 11th, the day when captain Lewis left us, we remained at the
+entrance of Maria's river and completed the deposits of all the articles
+with which we could dispense. The morning had been fair with a high wind
+from the southwest, which shifted in the evening to northwest, when the
+weather became cold and the wind high. The next morning,
+
+Wednesday, 12, we left our encampment with a fair day and a southwest
+wind. The river was now so crowded with islands that within the distance
+of ten miles and a half we passed eleven of different dimensions before
+reaching a high black bluff in a bend on the left, where we saw a great
+number of swallows. Within one mile and a half farther we passed four
+small islands, two on each side, and at fifteen miles from our
+encampment reached a spring which the men called Grog spring: it is on
+the northern shore, and at the point where Tansy river approaches within
+one hundred yards of the Missouri. From this place we proceeded three
+miles to a low bluff on the north opposite to an island, and spent the
+night in an old Indian encampment. The bluffs under which we passed were
+composed of a blackish clay and coal for about eighty feet, above which
+for thirty or forty feet is a brownish yellow earth. The river is very
+rapid and obstructed by bars of gravel and stone of different shapes and
+sizes, so that three of our canoes were in great danger in the course of
+the day. We had a few drops of rain about two o'clock in the afternoon.
+The only animals we killed were elk and deer; but we saw great numbers
+of rattlesnakes.
+
+Thursday, 13. The morning was fair and there was some dew on the ground.
+After passing two islands we reached at the distance of a mile and a
+half a small rapid stream fifty yards wide, emptying itself on the
+south, rising in a mountain to the southeast about twelve or fifteen
+miles distant, and at this time covered with snow. As it is the channel
+for the melted snow of that mountain we called it Snow river: opposite
+to its entrance is another island: at one mile and three quarters is a
+black bluff of slate on the south; nine miles beyond which, after
+passing ten islands, we came to on the southern shore near an old Indian
+fortified camp, opposite the lower point of an island, having made
+thirteen miles. The number of islands and shoals, the rapidity of the
+river, and the quantity of large stones, rendered the navigation very
+disagreeable: along the banks we distinguished several low bluffs or
+cliffs of slate. There were great numbers of geese and goslings; the
+geese not being able to fly at this season. Gooseberries are ripe and in
+great abundance; the yellow currant is also common, but not yet ripe.
+Our game consisted of buffaloe and goats.
+
+Friday, 14. Again the day is fine. We made two miles to a small island
+in the southern bend, after passing several bad rapids. The current
+becomes indeed swifter as we ascend and the canoes frequently receive
+water as we drag them with difficulty along. At the distance of six
+miles we reached captain Clarke's camp on the fourth, which is on the
+north side and opposite to a large gravelly bar. Here the man sent by
+captain Lewis joined us with the pleasing intelligence that he had
+discovered the falls, and was convinced that the course we were pursuing
+was that of the true Missouri. At a mile and a half we reached the upper
+point of an island, three quarters of a mile beyond which we encamped on
+the south, after making only ten and a quarter miles. Along the river
+was but little timber, but much hard slate in the bluffs.
+
+Saturday, 15. The morning being warm and fair we set out at the usual
+hour, but proceeded with great difficulty in consequence of the
+increased rapidity of the current. The channel is constantly obstructed
+by rocks and dangerous rapids. During the whole progress the men are in
+the water hauling the canoes, and walking on sharp rocks and round
+stones which cut their feet or cause them to fall. The rattlesnakes too
+are so numerous that the men are constantly on their guard against being
+bitten by them; yet they bear the fatigues with the most undiminished
+cheerfulness. We hear the roar of the falls very distinctly this
+morning. At three and three quarter miles we came to a rock in a bend to
+the south, resembling a tower. At six and three quarter miles we reached
+a large creek on the south, which after one of our men we called
+Shield's creek. It is rapid in its course, about thirty yards wide, and
+on sending a person five miles up it proved to have a fall of fifteen
+feet, and some timber on its low ground. Above this river the bluffs of
+the Missouri are of red earth mixed with stratas of black stone; below
+it we passed some white clay in the banks which mixes with water in
+every respect like flour. At three and three quarter miles we reached a
+point on the north opposite an island and a bluff; and one mile and a
+quarter further, after passing some red bluffs, came to on the north
+side, having made twelve miles. Here we found a rapid so difficult that
+we did not think proper to attempt the passage this evening, and
+therefore sent to captain Lewis to apprise him of our arrival. We saw a
+number of geese, ducks, crows, and blackbirds to-day, the two former
+with their young. The river rose a little this evening, but the timber
+is still so scarce that we could not procure enough for our use during
+the night.
+
+Sunday, June 16. Some rain fell last night, and this morning the weather
+was cloudy and the wind high from the southwest. We passed the rapid by
+doubly manning the periogue and canoes, and halted at the distance of a
+mile and a quarter to examine the rapids above, which we found to be a
+continued succession of cascades as far as the view extended, which was
+about two miles. About a mile above where we halted was a large creek
+falling in on the south, opposite to which is a large sulphur spring
+falling over the rocks on the north: captain Lewis arrived at two from
+the falls about five miles above us, and after consulting upon the
+subject of the portage, we crossed the river and formed a camp on the
+north, having come three quarters of a mile to-day. From our own
+observation we had deemed the south side to be the most favourable for a
+portage, but two men sent out for the purpose of examining it, reported
+that the creek and the ravines intersected the plain so deeply that it
+was impossible to cross it. Captain Clarke therefore resolved to examine
+more minutely what was the best route: the four canoes were unloaded at
+the camp and then sent across the river, where by means of strong cords
+they were hauled over the first rapid, whence they may be easily drawn
+into the creek. Finding too, that the portage would be at all events too
+long to enable us to carry the boats on our shoulders, six men were set
+to work to make wheels for carriages to transport them. Since leaving
+Maria's river the wife of Chaboneau, our interpreter, has been
+dangerously ill, but she now found great relief from the mineral water
+of the sulphur spring. It is situated about two hundred yards from the
+Missouri, into which it empties over a precipice of rock about
+twenty-five feet high. The water is perfectly transparent, strongly
+impregnated with sulphur, and we suspect iron also, as the colour of the
+hills and bluffs in the neighbourhood indicates the presence of that
+metal. In short the water to all appearance is precisely similar to that
+of Bowyer's sulphur spring in Virginia.
+
+Monday 17. Captain Clarke set out with five men to explore the country;
+the rest were employed in hunting, making wheels and in drawing the five
+canoes and all the baggage up the creek, which we now called Portage
+creek: from this creek there is a gradual ascent to the top of the high
+plain, while the bluffs of the creek lower down and of the Missouri,
+both above and below its entrance, were so steep as to have rendered it
+almost impracticable to drag them up from the Missouri. We found great
+difficulty and some danger in even ascending the creek thus far, in
+consequence of the rapids and rocks of the channel of the creek, which
+just above where we brought the canoes has a fall of five feet, and high
+and sleep bluffs beyond it: we were very fortunate in finding just below
+Portage creek a cottonwood tree about twenty-two inches in diameter, and
+large enough to make the carriage wheels; it was perhaps the only one of
+the same size within twenty miles; and the cottonwood, which we are
+obliged to employ in the other parts of the work, is extremely soft and
+brittle. The mast of the white periogue which we mean to leave behind,
+supplied us with two axletrees. There are vast quantities of buffaloe
+feeding in the plains or watering in the river, which is also strewed
+with the floating carcases and limbs of these animals. They go in large
+herds to water about the falls, and as all the passages to the river
+near that place are narrow and steep, the foremost are pressed into the
+river by the impatience of those behind. In this way we have seen ten or
+a dozen disappear over the falls in a few minutes. They afford excellent
+food for the wolves, bears, and birds of prey; and this circumstance may
+account for the reluctance of the bears to yield their dominion over the
+neighbourhood.
+
+Tuesday 18. The periogue was drawn up a little below our camp and
+secured in a thick copse of willow bushes. We now began to form a cache
+or place of deposit and to dry our goods and other articles which
+required inspection. The wagons too are completed. Our hunters brought
+us ten deer, and we shot two out of a herd of buffaloe that came to
+water at the sulphur spring. There is a species of gooseberry growing
+abundantly among the rocks on the sides of the cliffs: it is now ripe,
+of a pale red colour, about the size of the common gooseberry, and like
+it is an ovate pericarp of soft pulp enveloping a number of small
+whitish coloured seeds, and consisting of a yellowish slimy mucilaginous
+substance, with a sweet taste; the surface of the berry is covered with
+a glutinous adhesive matter, and its fruit though ripe retains its
+withered corolla. The shrub itself seldom rises more than two feet high,
+is much branched, and has no thorns. The leaves resemble those of the
+common gooseberry except in being smaller, and the berry is supported by
+separate peduncles or footstalks half an inch long. There are also
+immense quantities of grasshoppers of a brown colour in the plains, and
+they no doubt contribute to the lowness of the grass, which is not
+generally more than three inches high, though it is soft, narrow-leafed
+and affords a fine pasture for the buffaloe.
+
+Wednesday 19. The wind blew violently to-day, as it did yesterday, and
+as it does frequently in this open country, where there is not a tree to
+break or oppose its force. Some men were sent for the meat killed
+yesterday which fortunately had not been discovered by the wolves.
+Another party went to Medicine river in quest of elk, which we hope may
+be induced to resort there, from there being more wood in that
+neighborhood than on the Missouri. All the rest were occupied in packing
+the baggage and mending their moccasins, in order to prepare for the
+portage. We caught a number of the white fish, but no catfish or trout.
+Our poor Indian woman, who had recovered so far as to walk out,
+imprudently ate a quantity of the white apple, which with some dried
+fish occasioned a return of her fever.
+
+The meridian altitude of the sun's lower limb, as observed with octant
+by back observation, was 53 degrees 15', giving as the latitude of our
+camp, 47 degrees 8' 59" 5"'.
+
+Thursday 20. As we were desirous of getting meat enough to last us
+during the portage, so that the men might not be diverted from their
+labour to look for food, we sent out four hunters to-day: they killed
+eleven buffaloe. This was indeed an easy labour, for there are vast
+herds coming constantly to the opposite bank of the river to water; they
+seem also to make much use of the mineral water of the sulphur spring,
+but whether from choice, or because it is more convenient than the
+river, we cannot determine, as they sometimes pass near the spring and
+go on to the river. Besides this spring, brackish water or that of a
+dark colour impregnated with mineral salts, such as we have frequently
+met on the Missouri, may be found in small quantities in some of the
+steep ravines on the north side of the river opposite to us and at the
+falls.
+
+Captain Clarke returned this evening, having examined the whole course
+of the river and fixed the route most practicable for the portage. The
+first day, 17th, he was occupied in measuring the heights and distances
+along the banks of the river, and slept near a ravine at the foot of the
+crooked falls, having very narrowly escaped falling into the river,
+where he would have perished inevitably, in descending the cliffs near
+the grand cataract. The next day, 18th, he continued the same occupation
+and arrived in the afternoon at the junction of Medicine and Missouri
+rivers: up the latter he ascended, and passed at the distance of a mile
+an island and a little timber in an eastwardly bend of the river. One
+mile beyond this he came to the lower point of a large island; another
+small island in the middle of the river, and one near the left shore at
+the distance of three miles, opposite to the head of which he encamped
+near the mouth of a creek which appeared to rise in the South mountain.
+These three islands are opposite to each other, and we gave them the
+name of the Whitebear islands from observing some of those animals on
+them. He killed a beaver, an elk and eight buffaloe. One of the men who
+was sent a short distance from the camp to bring home some meat, was
+attacked by a white bear, and closely pursued within forty paces of the
+camp, and narrowly escaped being caught. Captain Clarke immediately went
+with three men in quest of the bear, which he was afraid might surprise
+another of the hunters who was out collecting the game. The bear was
+however too quick, for before captain Clarke could reach the man, the
+bear had attacked him and compelled him to take refuge in the water. He
+now ran off as they approached, and it being late they deferred pursuing
+him till the next morning.
+
+
+
+
+                                CHAPTER XI.
+
+     Description and romantic appearance of the Missouri at the junction
+     of the Medicine river--the difficulty of transporting the baggage
+     at the falls--the party employed in the construction of a boat of
+     skins--the embarrassments they had to encounter for want of proper
+     materials--during the work the party much troubled by white
+     bears--violent hail-storm, and providential escape of captain
+     Clarke and his party--description of a remarkable
+     fountain--singular explosion heard from the Black mountains--the
+     boat found to be insufficient, and the serious disappointment of
+     the party--captain Clarke undertakes to repair the damage by
+     building canoes, and accomplishes the task.
+
+
+On the 19th, captain Clarke not being able to find the bear mentioned in
+the last chapter, spent the day in examining the country both above and
+below the Whitebear islands, and concluded that the place of his
+encampment would be the best point for the extremity of the portage. The
+men were therefore occupied in drying the meat to be left here. Immense
+numbers of buffaloe are every where round, and they saw a summer duck
+which is now sitting. The next morning, 20th, he crossed the level
+plain, fixed stakes to mark the route of the portage, till he passed a
+large ravine which would oblige us to make the portage farther from the
+river: after this there being no other obstacle he went to the river
+where he had first struck it, and took its courses and distances down to
+the camp. From the draught and survey of captain Clarke, we had now a
+clear and connected view of the falls, cascades, and rapids of the
+Missouri.
+
+This river is three hundred yards wide at the point where it receives
+the waters of Medicine river, which is one hundred and thirty-seven
+yards in width. The united current continues three hundred and
+twenty-eight poles to a small rapid on the north side, from which it
+gradually widens to one thousand four hundred yards, and at the distance
+of five hundred and forty-eight poles reaches the head of the rapids,
+narrowing as it approaches them. Here the hills on the north which had
+withdrawn from the bank closely border the river, which, for the space
+of three hundred and twenty poles, makes its way over the rocks with a
+descent of thirty feet: in this course the current is contracted to five
+hundred and eighty yards, and after throwing itself over a small pitch
+of five feet, forms a beautiful cascade of twenty-six feet five inches;
+this does not however fall immediately perpendicular, being stopped by a
+part of the rock which projects at about one third of the distance.
+After descending this fall, and passing the cottonwood island on which
+the eagle has fixed its nest, the river goes on for five hundred and
+thirty-two poles over rapids and little falls, the estimated descent of
+which is thirteen feet six inches till it is joined by a large fountain
+boiling up underneath the rocks near the edge of the river, into which
+it falls with a cascade of eight feet. It is of the most perfect
+clearness and rather of a bluish cast; and even after falling into the
+Missouri it preserves its colour for half a mile. From this fountain the
+river descends with increased rapidity for the distance of two hundred
+and fourteen poles, during which the estimated descent is five feet from
+this for a distance of one hundred and thirty-five poles, the river
+descends fourteen feet seven inches including a perpendicular fall of
+six feet seven inches. The river has now become pressed into a space of
+four hundred and seventy-three yards, and here forms a grand cataract by
+falling over a plain rock the whole distance across the river to the
+depth of forty-seven feet eight inches: after recovering itself the
+Missouri then proceeds with an estimated descent of three feet, till at
+the distance of one hundred and two poles it again is precipitated down
+the Crooked falls of nineteen feet perpendicular; below this at the
+mouth of a deep ravine is a fall of five feet, after which for the
+distance of nine hundred and seventy poles the descent is much more
+gradual, not being more than ten feet, and then succeeds a handsome
+level plain for the space of one hundred and seventy-eight poles with a
+computed descent of three feet, making a bend towards the north. Thence
+it descends during four hundred and eight poles, about eighteen feet and
+a half, when it makes a perpendicular fall of two feet, which is ninety
+poles beyond the great cataract, in approaching which it descends
+thirteen feet within two hundred yards, and gathering strength from its
+confined channel, which is only two hundred and eighty yards wide,
+rushes over the fall to the depth of eighty-seven feet and three
+quarters of an inch. After raging among the rocks and losing itself in
+foam, it is compressed immediately into a bed of ninety-three yards in
+width: it continues for three hundred and forty poles to the entrance of
+a run or deep ravine where there is a fall of three feet, which, joined
+to the decline of the river during that course, makes the descent six
+feet. As it goes on the descent within the next two hundred and forty
+poles is only four feet: from this passing a run or deep ravine the
+descent for four hundred poles is thirteen feet; within two hundred and
+forty poles a second descent of eighteen feet; thence one hundred and
+sixty poles a descent of six feet; after which to the mouth of Portage
+creek, a distance of two hundred and eighty poles, the descent is ten
+feet. From this survey and estimate it results that the river
+experiences a descent of three hundred and fifty-two feet in the course
+of two and three quarter miles, from the commencement of the rapids to
+the mouth of Portage creek, exclusive of the almost impassable rapids
+which extend for a mile below its entrance.
+
+The latitude of our camp below the entrance of Portage creek, was found
+to be 47 degrees 7' 10" 3, as deduced from a meridian altitude of the
+sun's lower limb taken with octant by back observation giving 53 degrees
+10'.
+
+Friday, June 21. Having made the necessary preparations for continuing
+our route, a part of the baggage was carried across the creek into the
+high plain, three miles in advance and placed on one of the carriages
+with truck wheels: the rest of the party was employed in drying meat and
+dressing elk skins. We killed several muledeer and an elk, and observed
+as usual vast quantities of buffaloe who came to drink at the river. For
+the first time on the Missouri we have seen near the falls a species of
+fishing duck, the body of which is brown and white, the wings white, and
+the head and upper part of the neck of a brick red, with a narrow beak,
+which seems to be of the same kind common in the Susquehanna, Potomac
+and James' river. The little wood which this neighbourhood affords
+consists of the broad and narrow-leafed cottonwood, the box alder, the
+narrow and broad-leafed willow, the large or sweet willow, which was not
+common below Maria's river, but which here attains the same size and has
+the same appearance as in the Atlantic states. The undergrowth consists
+of roses, gooseberries, currants, small honeysuckles, and the redwood,
+the inner part of which the _engages_ or watermen are fond of smoking
+when mixed with tobacco.
+
+Saturday, 22. We now set out to pass the portage and halted for dinner
+at eight miles distance near a little stream. The axletrees of our
+carriage, which had been made of an old mast, and the cottonwood tongues
+broke before we came there: but we renewed them with the timber of the
+sweet willow, which lasted till within half a mile of our intended camp,
+when the tongues gave way and we were obliged to take as much baggage as
+we could carry on our backs down to the river, where we formed an
+encampment in a small grove of timber opposite to the Whitebear islands.
+Here the banks on both sides of the river are handsome, level, and
+extensive; that near our camp is not more than two feet above the
+surface of the water. The river is about eight hundred yards wide just
+above these islands, ten feet deep in most places, and with a very
+gentle current. The plains however on this part of the river are not so
+fertile as those from the mouth of the Muscleshell and thence downwards;
+there is much more stone on the sides of the hills and on the broken
+lands than is to be found lower down. We saw in the plains vast
+quantities of buffaloe, a number of small birds, and the large brown
+curlew, which is now sitting, and lays its eggs, which are of a pale
+blue with black-specks, on the ground without any nest. There is also a
+species of lark much resembling the bird called the oldfield lark, with
+a yellow breast and a black spot on the croup; though it differs from
+the latter in having its tail formed of feathers of an unequal length
+and pointed; the beak too is somewhat longer and more curved, and the
+note differs considerably. The prickly pear annoyed us very much to-day
+by sticking through our moccasins. As soon as we had kindled our fires
+we examined the meat which captain Clarke had left here, but found that
+the greater part of it had been taken by the wolves.
+
+Sunday, 23. After we had brought up the canoe and baggage captain Clarke
+went down to the camp at Portage creek, where four of the men had been
+left with the Indian woman. Captain Lewis during the morning prepared
+the camp, and in the afternoon went down in a canoe to Medicine river to
+look after the three men who had been sent thither to hunt on the 19th,
+and from whom nothing had as yet been heard. He went up the river about
+half a mile and then walked along on the right bank, hallooing as he
+went, till at the distance of five miles he found one of them who had
+fixed his camp on the opposite bank, where he had killed seven deer and
+dried about six hundred pounds of buffaloe meat, but had killed no elk,
+the animal chiefly wanted. He knew nothing of his companions except that
+on the day of their departure from camp he had left them at the falls
+and come on to Medicine river, not having seen them since. As it was too
+late to return captain Lewis passed over on a raft which he made for
+the purpose and spent the night at Shannon's camp, and the next morning,
+
+Monday, 24, sent J. Fields up the river with orders to go four miles and
+return, whether he found the two absent hunters or not; then descending
+the southwest side of Medicine river, he crossed the Missouri in the
+canoe, and sent Shannon back to his camp to join Fields and bring the
+meat which they had killed: this they did, and arrived in the evening at
+the camp on Whitebear islands. A part of the men from Portage creek also
+arrived with two canoes and baggage. On going down yesterday captain
+Clarke cut off several angles of the former route so as to shorten the
+Portage considerably, and marked it with stakes: he arrived there in
+time to have two of the canoes carried up in the high plain about a mile
+in advance. Here they all repaired their moccasins, and put on double
+soals to protect them from the prickly pear and from the sharp points of
+earth which have been formed by the trampling of the buffaloe during the
+late rains: this of itself is sufficient to render the portage
+disagreeable to one who had no burden; but as the men are loaded as
+heavily as their strength will permit, the crossing is really painful:
+some are limping with the soreness of their feet, others are scarcely
+able to stand for more than a few minutes from the heat and fatigue:
+they are all obliged to halt and rest frequently, and at almost every
+stopping place they fall and many of them are asleep in an instant; yet
+no one complains and they go on with great cheerfulness. At their camp
+Drewyer and Fields joined them, and while captain Lewis was looking for
+them at Medicine river, they returned to report the absence of Shannon
+about whom they had been very uneasy. They had killed several buffaloe
+at the bend of the Missouri above the falls: and dried about eight
+hundred pounds of meat and got one hundred pounds of tallow: they had
+also killed some deer, but had seen no elk. After getting the party in
+motion with the canoes captain Clarke returned to his camp at Portage
+creek.
+
+We were now occupied in fitting up a boat of skins, the frame of which
+had been prepared for the purpose at Harper's ferry. It was made of
+iron, thirty-six feet long, four feet and a half in the beam, and
+twenty-six inches wide in the bottom. Two men had been sent this morning
+for timber to complete it, but they could find scarcely any even
+tolerably straight sticks four and a half feet long, and as the
+cottonwood is too soft and brittle we were obliged to use the willow and
+box-alder.
+
+Tuesday, 25. The party returned to the lower camp. Two men were sent on
+the large island to look for timber. J. Fields was sent up the Missouri
+to hunt elk; but he returned about noon and informed us that a few miles
+above he saw two white bear near the river, and in attempting to fire at
+them came suddenly on a third, who being only a few steps off
+immediately attacked him; that in running to escape from the monster he
+leaped down a steep bank of the river, where falling on a bar of stone
+he cut his hand and knee and bent his gun; but fortunately for him the
+bank concealed him from his antagonist or he would have been most
+probably lost. The other two returned with a small quantity of bark and
+timber, which was all they could find on the island; but they had killed
+two elk: these were valuable, as we are desirous of procuring the skins
+of that animal in order to cover the boat, as they are more strong and
+durable than those of the buffaloe, and do not shrink so much in drying.
+The party that went to the lower camp had one canoe and the baggage
+carried into the high plain to be ready in the morning, and then all who
+could make use of their feet had a dance on the green to the music of a
+violin. We have been unsuccessful in our attempt to catch fish, nor does
+there seem to be any in this part of the river. We observe a number of
+water terrapins. There are quantities of young blackbirds in these
+islands just beginning to fly. Among the vegetable productions we
+observe a species of wild rye which is now heading: it rises to the
+height of eighteen or twenty inches, the beard remarkably fine and soft;
+the culen is jointed, and in every respect except in height it resembles
+the wild rye. Great quantities of mint too, like the peppermint, are
+found here.
+
+The winds are sometimes violent in these plains. The men inform us that
+as they were bringing one of the canoes along on truck-wheels, they
+hoisted the sail and the wind carried her along for some distance.
+
+Wednesday 26. Two men were sent on the opposite side of the river for
+bark and timber, of which they procured some, but by no means enough
+for our purposes. The bark of the cottonwood is too soft, and our only
+dependence is on the sweet willow, which has a tough strong bark; the
+two hunters killed seven buffaloe. A party arrived from below with two
+canoes and baggage, and the wind being from the southeast, they had made
+considerable progress with the sails. On their arrival one of the men
+who had been considerably heated and fatigued, swallowed a very hearty
+draught of water, and was immediately taken ill; captain Lewis bled him
+with a penknife, having no other instrument at hand, and succeeded in
+restoring him to health the next day. Captain Clarke formed a second
+cache or deposit near the camp, and placed the swivel under the rocks
+near the river. The antelopes are still scattered through the plains;
+the females with their young, which are generally two in number, and the
+males by themselves.
+
+Thursday 27. The party were employed in preparing timber for the boat,
+except two who were sent to hunt. About one in the afternoon a cloud
+arose from the southwest and brought with it violent thunder, lightning,
+and hail: soon after it passed the hunters came in from about four miles
+above us. They had killed nine elk, and three bear. As they were hunting
+on the river they saw a low ground covered with thick brushwood, where
+from the tracks along shore they thought a bear had probably taken
+refuge: they therefore landed, without making a noise, and climbed
+a tree about twenty feet above the ground. Having fixed themselves
+securely, they raised a loud shout, and a bear instantly rushed towards
+them. These animals never climb, and therefore when he came to the tree
+and stopped to look at them, Drewyer shot him in the head; he proved to
+be the largest we have yet seen, his nose appeared to be like that of a
+common ox, his fore feet measured nine inches across, and the hind feet
+were seven inches wide, and eleven and three quarters long, exclusive of
+the talons. One of these animals came within thirty yards of the camp
+last night, and carried off some buffaloe meat which we had placed on
+a pole. In the evening after the storm the water on this side of the
+river became of a deep crimson colour, probably caused by some stream
+above washing down a kind of soft red stone, which we observed in the
+neighbouring bluffs and gullies. At the camp below, the men who left us
+in the morning were busy in preparing their load for to-morrow, which
+were impeded by the rain, hail, and the hard wind from the northwest.
+
+Friday 28. The party all occupied in making the boat; they obtained a
+sufficient quantity of willow bark to line her, and over these were
+placed the elk skins, and when they failed we were obliged to use the
+buffaloe hide. The white bear have now become exceedingly troublesome;
+they constantly infest our camp during the night, and though they have
+not attacked us, as our dog who patroles all night gives us notice of
+their approach, yet we are obliged to sleep with our arms by our sides
+for fear of accident, and we cannot send one man alone to any distance,
+particularly if he has to pass through brushwood. We saw two of them
+to-day on the large island opposite to us, but as we are all so much
+occupied now, we mean to reserve ourselves for some leisure moment, and
+then make a party to drive them from the islands. The river has risen
+nine inches since our arrival here.
+
+At Portage creek captain Clarke completed the cache, in which we
+deposited whatever we could spare from our baggage; some ammunition,
+provisions, books, the specimens of plants and minerals, and a draught
+of the river from its entrance to fort Mandan. After closing it he broke
+up the encampment, and took on all the remaining baggage to the high
+plain, about three miles. Portage creek has risen considerably in
+consequence of the rain, and the water had become of a deep crimson
+colour, and ill tasted; on overtaking the canoe he found that there was
+more baggage than could be carried on the two carriages, and therefore
+left some of the heavy articles which could not be injured, and
+proceeded on to Willowrun where he encamped for the night. Here they
+made a supper on two buffaloe which they killed on the way; but passed
+the night in the rain, with a high wind from the southwest. In the
+morning,
+
+Saturday 29, finding it impossible to reach the end of the portage with
+their present load, in consequence of the state of the road after the
+rain, he sent back nearly all his party to bring on the articles which
+had been left yesterday. Having lost some notes and remarks which he had
+made on first ascending the river, he determined to go up to the
+Whitebear islands along its banks, in order to supply the deficiency. He
+there left one man to guard the baggage, and went on to the falls
+accompanied by his servant York, Chaboneau and his wife with her young
+child. On his arrival there he observed a very dark cloud rising in the
+west which threatened rain, and looked around for some shelter, but
+could find no place where they would be secure from being blown into the
+river if the wind should prove as violent as it sometimes does in the
+plains. At length about a quarter of a mile above the falls he found a
+deep ravine where there were some shelving rocks, under which he took
+refuge. They were on the upper side of the ravine near the river,
+perfectly safe from the rain, and therefore laid down their guns,
+compass, and other articles which they carried with them. The shower
+was at first moderate, it then increased to a heavy rain, the effects of
+which they did not feel: soon after a torrent of rain and hail
+descended; the rain seemed to fall in a solid mass, and instantly
+collecting in the ravine came rolling down in a dreadful current,
+carrying the mud and rocks, and every thing that opposed it. Captain
+Clarke fortunately saw it a moment before it reached them, and springing
+up with his gun and shotpouch in his left hand, with his right clambered
+up the steep bluff, pushing on the Indian woman with her child in her
+arms; her husband too had seized her hand and was pulling her up the
+hill, but he was so terrified at the danger that but for captain Clark,
+himself and his wife and child would have been lost. So instantaneous
+was the rise of the water, that before captain Clark had reached his gun
+and began to ascend the bank, the water was up to his waist, and he
+could scarce get up faster than it rose, till it reached the height of
+fifteen feet with a furious current, which had they waited a moment
+longer would have swept them into the river just above the great falls,
+down which they must inevitable have been precipitated. They reached the
+plain in safety, and found York who had separated from them just before
+the storm to hunt some buffaloe, and was now returning to find his
+master. They had been obliged to escape so rapidly that captain Clarke
+lost his compass and umbrella. Chaboneau left his gun, shotpouch, and
+tomahawk, and the Indian woman had just time to grasp her child, before
+the net in which it lay at her feet was carried down the current. He now
+relinquished his intention of going up the river and returned to the
+camp at Willowrun. Here he found that the party sent this morning for
+the baggage, had all returned to camp in great confusion, leaving their
+loads in the plain. On account of the heat they generally go nearly
+naked, and with no covering on their heads. The hail was so large and
+driven so furiously against them by the high wind, that it knocked
+several of them down: one of them particularly was thrown on the ground
+three times, and most of them bleeding freely and complained of being
+much bruised. Willow run had risen six feet since the rain, and as the
+plains were so wet that they could not proceed, they passed the night at
+their camp.
+
+At the Whitebear camp also, we had not been insensible to the
+hail-storm, though less exposed. In the morning there had been a heavy
+shower of rain, after which it became fair. After assigning to the men
+their respective employments, captain Lewis took one of them and went to
+see the large fountain near the falls. For about six miles he passed
+through a beautiful level plain, and then on reaching the break of the
+river hills, was overtaken by the gust of wind from the southwest
+attended by lightning, thunder, and rain: fearing a renewal of the scene
+on the 27th, they took shelter in a little gully where there were some
+broad stones with which they meant to protect themselves against the
+hail; but fortunately there was not much, and that of a small size; so
+that they felt no inconvenience except that of being exposed without
+shelter for an hour, and being drenched by the rain: after it was over
+they proceeded to the fountain which is perhaps the largest in America.
+It is situated in a pleasant level plain, about twenty-five yards from
+the river, into which it falls over some steep irregular rocks with a
+sudden ascent of about six feet in one part of its course. The water
+boils up from among the rocks and with such force near the centre, that
+the surface seems higher there than the earth on the sides of the
+fountain, which is a handsome turf of fine green grass. The water is
+extremely pure, cold and pleasant to the taste, not being impregnated
+with lime or any foreign substance. It is perfectly transparent and
+continues its bluish cast for half a mile down the Missouri,
+notwithstanding the rapidity of the river. After examining it for some
+time captain Lewis returned to the camp.
+
+Sunday 30. In the morning Captain Clarke sent the men to bring up the
+baggage left in the plains yesterday. On their return the axletrees and
+carriages were repaired, and the baggage, conveyed on the shoulders of
+the party across Willow run which had fallen as low as three feet. The
+carriages being then taken over, a load of baggage was carried to the
+six-mile stake, deposited there, and the carriages brought back. Such is
+the state of the plains that this operation consumed the day. Two men
+were sent to the falls to look for the articles lost yesterday; but they
+found nothing but the compass covered with mud and sand at the mouth of
+the ravine; the place at which captain Clarke had been caught by the
+storm, was filled with large rocks. The men complain much of the bruises
+received yesterday from the hail. A more than usual number of buffaloe
+appeared about the camp to-day, and furnished plenty of meat: captain
+Clarke thought that at one view he must have seen at least ten thousand.
+In the course of the day there was a heavy gust of wind from the
+southwest, after which the evening was fair.
+
+At the Whitebear camp we had a heavy dew this morning, which is quite a
+remarkable occurrence. The party continues to be occupied with the boat,
+the crossbars for which are now finished, and there remain only the
+strips to complete the wood work: the skins necessary to cover it have
+already been prepared and they amount to twenty-eight elk skins and four
+buffaloe skins. Among our game were two beaver, which we have had
+occasion to observe always are found wherever there is timber. We also
+killed a large bat or goatsucker of which there are many in this
+neighbourhood, resembling in every respect those of the same species in
+the United States. We have not seen the leather-winged bat for some
+time, nor are there any of the small goatsucker in this part of the
+Missouri. We have not seen either that species of goatsucker or
+nighthawk called the whippoorwill, which is commonly confounded in the
+United States with the large goatsucker which we observe here; this last
+prepares no nest but lays its eggs in the open plains; they generally
+begin to sit on two eggs, and we believe raise only one brood in a
+season: at the present moment they are just hatching their young.
+
+Monday, July 1. After a severe day's work captain Clarke reached our
+camp in the evening, accompanied by his party and all the baggage except
+that left at the six-mile stake, for which they were too much fatigued
+to return. The route from the lower camp on Portage creek to that near
+Whitebear island, having been now measured and examined by captain
+Clarke was as follows:
+
+From our camp opposite the last considerable rapid to the entrance of
+Portage creek south 9 degrees east for three quarters of a mile: thence
+on a course south 10 degrees east for two miles, though for the canoes
+the best route is to the left of this course, and strikes Portage one
+mile and three quarters from its entrance, avoiding in this way a very
+steep hill which lies above Portage creek; from this south 18 degrees
+west for four miles, passing the head of a drain or ravine which falls
+into the Missouri below the great falls, and to the Willow run which has
+always a plentiful supply of good water and some timber: here the course
+turns to south 45 degrees west for four miles further; then south 66
+degrees west three miles, crossing at the beginning of the course the
+head of a drain which falls into the Missouri at the Crooked Falls, and
+reaching an elevated point of the plain from which south 42 degrees
+west. On approaching the river on this course there is a long and gentle
+descent from the high plain, after which the road turns a little to the
+right of the course up the river to our camp. The whole portage is
+seventeen and three quarter miles.
+
+At the Whitebear camp we were occupied with the boat and digging a pit
+for the purpose of making some tar. The day has been warm, and the
+mosquitoes troublesome. We were fortunate enough to observe equal
+altitudes of the sun with sextant, which since our arrival here we have
+been prevented from doing, by flying clouds and storms in the evening.
+
+Tuesday, July 2d. A shower of rain fell very early this morning. We then
+despatched some men for the baggage left behind yesterday, and the rest
+were engaged in putting the boat together. This was accomplished in
+about three hours, and then we began to sew on the leather over the
+crossbars or iron on the inner side of the boat which form the ends of
+the sections. By two o'clock the last of the baggage arrived, to the
+great delight of the party who were anxious to proceed. The mosquitoes
+we find very troublesome.
+
+Having completed our celestial observations we went over to the large
+island to make an attack upon its inhabitants the bears, who have
+annoyed us very much of late, and who were prowling about our camp all
+last night. We found that the part of the island frequented by the bear
+forms an almost impenetrable thicket of the broad-leafed willow: into
+this we forced our way in parties of three; but could see only one bear,
+who instantly attacked Drewyer. Fortunately as he was rushing on the
+hunter shot him through the heart within twenty paces and he fell, which
+enabled Drewyer to get out of his way: we then followed him one hundred
+yards and found that the wound had been mortal. Not being able to
+discover any more of these animals we returned to camp: here in turning
+over some of the baggage we caught a rat somewhat larger than the common
+European rat, and of a lighter colour: the body and outer parts of the
+legs and head of a light lead colour; the inner side of the legs as well
+as the belly, feet and ears are white; the ears are not covered with
+hair, and are much larger than those of the common rat; the toes also
+are longer, the eyes black and prominent, the whiskers very long and
+full; the tail rather longer than the body, and covered with fine fur
+and hair of the same size with that on the back, which is very close,
+short, and silky in its texture. This was the first we had met, although
+its nests are very frequent among the cliffs of rocks and hollow trees,
+where we also found large quantities of the shells and seed of the
+prickly pear, on which we conclude they chiefly subsist. The musquitoes
+are uncommonly troublesome. The wind was again high from the southwest:
+these winds are in fact always the coldest and most violent which we
+experience, and the hypothesis which we have formed on that subject is,
+that the air coming in contact with the Snowy mountains immediately
+becomes chilled and condensed, and being thus rendered heavier than the
+air below it descends into the rarified air below or into the vacuum
+formed by the constant action of the sun on the open unsheltered plains.
+The clouds rise suddenly near these mountains and distribute their
+contents partially over the neighbouring plains. The same cloud will
+discharge hail alone in one part, hail and rain in another, and rain
+only in a third, and all within the space of a few miles; while at the
+same time there is snow falling on the mountains to the southeast of us.
+There is at present no snow on those mountains; that which covered them
+on our arrival as well as that which has since fallen having
+disappeared. The mountains to the north and northwest of us are still
+entirely covered with snow, and indeed there has been no perceptible
+diminution of it since we first saw them, which induces a belief either
+that the clouds prevailing at this season do not reach their summits or
+that they deposit their snow only. They glisten with great beauty when
+the sun shines on them in a particular direction, and most probably from
+this glittering appearance have derived the name of the Shining
+mountains.
+
+Wednesday, 3. Nearly the whole party were employed in different labours
+connected with the boat, which is now almost completed: but we have not
+as yet been able to obtain tar from our kiln, a circumstance that will
+occasion us not a little embarrassment. Having been told by the Indians
+that on leaving the falls we should soon pass the buffaloe country, we
+have before us the prospect of fasting occasionally; but in order to
+provide a supply we sent out the hunters who killed only a buffaloe and
+two antelopes, which added to six beaver and two otter have been all our
+game for two or three days. At ten in the morning we had a light shower
+which scarcely wet the grass.
+
+Thursday, July 4th. The boat was now completed except what is in fact
+the most difficult part, the making her seams secure. We had intended to
+despatch a canoe with part of our men to the United States early this
+spring; but not having yet seen the Snake Indians, or knowing whether to
+calculate on their friendship or enmity, we have decided not to weaken
+our party which is already scarcely sufficient to repel any hostility.
+We were afraid too that such a measure might dishearten those who
+remain; and as we have never suggested it to them, they are all
+perfectly and enthusiastically attached to the enterprise, and willing
+to encounter any danger to ensure its success. We had a heavy dew this
+morning.
+
+Since our arrival at the falls we have repeatedly heard a strange noise
+coming from the mountains in a direction a little to the north of west.
+It is heard at different periods of the day and night, sometimes when
+the air is perfectly still and without a cloud, and consists of one
+stroke only, or of five or six discharges in quick succession. It is
+loud and resembles precisely the sound of a six pound piece of ordnance
+at the distance of three miles. The Minnetarees frequently mentioned
+this noise like thunder, which they said the mountains made; but we had
+paid no attention to it, believing it to have been some superstition or
+perhaps a falsehood. The watermen also of the party say that the Pawnees
+and Ricaras give the same account of a noise heard in the Black
+mountains to the westward of them. The solution of the mystery given by
+the philosophy of the watermen is, that it is occasioned by the
+bursting of the rich mines of silver confined within the bosom of the
+mountain. An elk and a beaver are all that were killed to-day: the
+buffaloe seemed to have withdrawn from our neighbourhood, though several
+of the men who went to-day to visit the falls for the first time,
+mention that they are still abundant at that place. We contrived however
+to spread not a very sumptuous but a comfortable table in honour of the
+day, and in the evening gave the men a drink of spirits, which was the
+last of our stock. Some of them appeared sensible to the effects of even
+so small a quantity, and as is usual among them on all festivals, the
+fiddle was produced and a dance begun, which lasted till nine o'clock,
+when it was interrupted by a heavy shower of rain. They continued
+however their merriment till a late hour.
+
+Friday 5. The boat was brought up into a high situation and fires
+kindled under her in order to dry her more expeditiously. Despairing now
+of procuring any tar, we formed a composition of pounded charcoal with
+beeswax and buffaloe tallow to supply its place; should this resource
+fail us it will be very unfortunate, as in every other respect the boat
+answers our purposes completely. Although not quite dry she can be
+carried with ease by five men; her form is as complete as could be
+wished; very strong, and will carry at least eight thousand pounds with
+her complement of hands. Besides our want of tar, we have been unlucky
+in sewing the skins with a needle which had sharp edges instead of a
+point merely, although a large thong was used in order to fill the hole,
+yet it shrinks in drying and leaves the hole open, so that we fear the
+boat will leak.
+
+A large herd of buffaloe came near us and we procured three of them:
+besides which were killed two wolves and three antelopes. In the course
+of the day other herds of buffaloe came near our camp on their way down
+the river: these herds move with great method and regularity. Although
+ten or twelve herds are seen scattered from each other over a space of
+many miles, yet if they are undisturbed by pursuit they will be
+uniformly travelling in the same direction.
+
+Saturday 6. Last night there were several showers of rain and hail,
+attended with thunder and lightning: and about day break a heavy storm
+came on from the southwest with one continued roar of thunder, and rain
+and hail. The hail which was as large as musket balls, covered the
+ground completely; and on collecting some of it, it lasted during the
+day and served to cool the water. The red and yellow currant is abundant
+and now ripe, although still a little acid. We have seen in this
+neighbourhood what we have not met before, a remarkably small fox which
+associates in bands and burrows in the prairie, like the small wolf, but
+have not yet been able to obtain any of them, as they are extremely
+vigilant, and betake themselves on the slightest alarm to their burrows
+which are very deep.
+
+Sunday 7. The weather is warm but cloudy, so that the moisture retained
+by the bark after the rain leaves it slowly, though we have small fires
+constantly under the boat. We have no tents, and therefore are obliged
+to use the sails to keep off the bad weather. Our buffaloe skins too,
+are scarcely sufficient to cover our baggage, but the men are now
+dressing others to replace their present leather clothing, which soon
+rots by being so constantly exposed to water. In the evening the hunters
+returned with the skins of only three buffaloe, two antelope, four deer,
+and three wolf skins, and reported that the buffaloe had gone further
+down the river; two other hunters who left us this morning could find
+nothing except one elk: in addition to this we caught a beaver. The
+musquitoes still disturb us very much, and the blowing-flies swarm in
+vast numbers round the boat. At four in the afternoon we had a light
+shower of rain attended with some thunder and lightning.
+
+Monday 8. In order more fully to replace the notes of the river which
+he had lost, and which he was prevented from supplying by the storm of
+the twenty-ninth ult. captain Clarke set out after breakfast, taking
+with him nearly the whole party with a view of shooting buffaloe if
+there should be any near the falls. After getting some distance in the
+plains the men were divided into squads, and he with two others struck
+the Missouri at the entrance of Medicine river, and thence proceeded
+down to the great cataract. He found that the immense herds of buffaloe
+have entirely disappeared, and he thought had gone below the falls.
+Having made the necessary measurements, he returned through the plains
+and reached camp late in the evening; the whole party had killed only
+three buffaloe, three antelopes and a deer; they had also shot a small
+fox, and brought a living ground-squirrel somewhat larger than those of
+the United States.
+
+The day was warm and fair, but a slight rain fell in the afternoon. The
+boat having now become sufficiently dry, we gave it a coat of the
+composition, which after a proper interval was repeated, and the next
+morning,
+
+Tuesday 9, she was launched into the water, and swam perfectly well: the
+seats were then fixed and the oars fitted; but after we had loaded her,
+as well as the canoes, and were on the point of setting out a violent
+wind caused the waves to wet the baggage, so that we were forced to
+unload them. The wind continued high till evening, when to our great
+disappointment we discovered that nearly all the composition had
+separated from the skins, and left the seams perfectly exposed; so that
+the boat now leaked very much. To repair this misfortune without pitch
+is impossible, and as none of that article is to be procured, we
+therefore, however reluctantly, are obliged to abandon her, after having
+had so much labour in the construction. We now saw that the section of
+the boat covered with buffaloe skins on which hair had been left,
+answered better than the elk skins and leaked but little; while that
+part which was covered hair about one eighth of an inch, retained the
+composition perfectly, and remained sound and dry. From this we
+perceived that had we employed buffaloe instead of elk skins, and not
+singed them so closely as we have done, carefully avoiding to cut the
+leather in sewing, the boat would have been sufficient even with the
+present composition, or had we singed instead of shaving the elk skins
+we might have succeeded. But we discovered our error too late: the
+buffaloe had deserted us, the travelling season was so fast advancing
+that we had no time to spare for experiments, and therefore finding that
+she could be no longer useful she was sunk in the water, so as to soften
+the skins and enable us the more easily to take her to pieces. It now
+became necessary to provide other means for transporting the baggage
+which we had intended to stow in her. For this purpose we shall want two
+canoes, but for many miles below the mouth of the Muscleshell river to
+this place, we have not seen a single tree fit to be used in that way.
+The hunters however who had hitherto been sent after timber, mention
+that there is a low ground on the opposite side of the river, about
+eight miles above us by land, and more than twice that distance by
+water, in which we may probably find trees large enough for our
+purposes. Captain Clarke therefore determined to set out by land for
+that place with ten of the best workmen who would be occupied in
+building the canoes till the rest of the party, after taking the boat to
+pieces and making the necessary deposits, should transport the baggage
+and join them with the other six canoes.
+
+Wednesday 10. He accordingly passed over to the opposite side of the
+river with his party, and proceeded on eight miles by land, the distance
+by water being twenty-three and three quarter miles. Here he found two
+cottonwood trees, but on cutting them down, one proved to be hollow,
+split at the top in falling, and both were much damaged at the bottom.
+He searched the neighbourhood but could find none which would suit
+better, and therefore was obliged to make use of those which he had
+felled, shortening them in order to avoid the cracks, and supplying the
+deficiency by making them as wide as possible. They were equally at a
+loss for wood of which they might make handles for their axes, the eyes
+of which not being round they were obliged to split the timber in such a
+manner that thirteen of the handles broke in the course of the day,
+though made of the best wood they could find for the purpose, which was
+the chokecherry.
+
+The rest of the party took the frame of the boat to pieces, deposited it
+in a cache or hole, with a draught of the country from fort Mandan to
+this place, and also some other papers and small articles of less
+importance. After this we amused ourselves with fishing, and although we
+had thought on our arrival that there were none in this part of the
+river, we caught some of a species of white chub below the falls, but
+few in number, and small in size.
+
+Serjeant Ordway with four canoes and eight men had set sail in the
+morning, with part of the baggage to the place where captain Clarke had
+fixed his camp, but the wind was so high that he only reached within
+three miles of that place, and encamped for the night.
+
+Thursday, July 11. In the morning one of the canoes joined captain
+Clarke: the other three having on board more valuable articles, which
+would have been injured by the water, went on more cautiously, and did
+not reach the camp till the evening. Captain Clarke then had the canoes
+unloaded and sent back, but the high wind prevented their floating down
+nearer than about eight miles above us. His party were busily engaged
+with the canoes, and their hunters supplied them with three fat deer and
+a buffaloe, in addition to two deer and an antelope killed yesterday.
+The few men who were with captain Lewis were occupied in hunting, but
+with not much success, having killed only one buffaloe. They heard about
+sunset two discharges of the tremendous mountain artillery: they also
+saw several very large gray eagles, much larger than those of the United
+States, and most probably a distinct species, though the bald eagle of
+this country is not quite so large as that of the United States. The men
+have been much afflicted with painful whitlows, and one of them disabled
+from working by this complaint in his hand.
+
+Friday, 12. In consequence of the wind the canoes did not reach the
+lower camp till late in the afternoon, before which time captain Lewis
+sent all the men he could spare up the river to assist in building the
+boats, and the day was too far advanced to reload and send them up
+before morning. The mosquitoes are very troublesome, and they have a
+companion not less so, a large black gnat which does not sting, but
+attacks the eyes in swarms. The party with captain Clarke are employed
+on the canoes: in the course of the work serjeant Pryor dislocated his
+shoulder yesterday, but it was replaced immediately, and though painful
+does not threaten much injury. The hunters brought in three deer and two
+otter. This last animal has been numerous since the water has become
+sufficiently clear for them to take fish. The blue-crested fisher, or as
+it is sometimes called, the kingfisher, is an inhabitant of this part of
+the river; it is a bird rare on the Missouri: indeed we had not seen
+more than three or four of them from its entrance to Maria's river, and
+even those did not seem to reside on the Missouri but on some of the
+clearer streams which empty into it, as they were seen near the mouths
+of those streams.
+
+Saturday 13. The morning being fair and calm captain Lewis had all the
+remaining baggage embarked on board the six canoes, which sailed with
+two men in each for the upper camp. Then with a sick man and the Indian
+woman, he left the encampment, and crossing over the river went on by
+land to join captain Clarke. From the head of the Whitebear islands he
+proceeded in a southwest direction, at the distance of three miles, till
+he struck the Missouri, which he then followed till he reached the place
+where all the party were occupied in boat-building. On his way he passed
+a very large Indian lodge, which was probably designed as a great
+council-house, but it differs in its construction from all that we have
+seen lower down the Missouri or elsewhere. The form of it was a circle
+two hundred and sixteen feet in circumference at the base, and composed
+of sixteen large cottonwood poles about fifty feet long, and at their
+thicker ends, which touched the ground, about the size of a man's body:
+they were distributed at equal distances, except that one was omitted to
+the east, probably for the entrance. From the circumference of this
+circle the poles converged towards the centre where they were united and
+secured by large withes of willow brush. There was no covering over this
+fabric, in the centre of which were the remains of a large fire, and
+round it the marks of about eighty leathern lodges. He also saw a number
+of turtledoves, and some pigeons, of which he shot one differing in no
+respect from the wild pigeon of the United States. The country exhibits
+its usual appearances, the timber confined to the river, the country on
+both sides as far as the eye can reach being entirely destitute of trees
+or brush. In the low ground in which we are building the canoes, the
+timber is larger and more abundant than we have seen it on the Missouri
+for several hundred miles. The soil too is good, for the grass and weeds
+reach about two feet high, being the tallest we have observed this
+season, though on the high plains and prairies the grass is at no season
+above three inches in height. Among these weeds are the sandrush, and
+nettle in small quantities; the plains are still infested by great
+numbers of the small birds already mentioned, among whom is the brown
+curlew. The current of the river is here extremely gentle; the buffaloe
+have not yet quite gone, for the hunters brought in three in very good
+order. It requires some diligence to supply us plentifully, for as we
+reserve our parched meal for the Rocky mountains, where we do not expect
+to find much game, our principal article of food is meat, and the
+consumption of the whole thirty-two persons belonging to the party,
+amounts to four deer, an elk and a deer, one buffaloe every twenty four
+hours. The musquitoes and gnats persecute us as violently as below, so
+that we can get no sleep unless defended by biers, with which we are all
+provided. We here found several plants hitherto unknown to us, and of
+which we preserved specimens.
+
+Serjeant Ordway proceeded with the six canoes five miles up the river,
+but the wind becoming so high as to wet the baggage he was obliged to
+unload and dry it. The wind abated at five o'clock in the evening, when
+he again proceeded eight miles and encamped. The next morning,
+
+Sunday, July 14, he joined us about noon. On leaving the Whitebear camp
+he passed at a short distance a little creek or run coming in on the
+left. This had been already examined and called Flattery run; it
+contains back water only, with very extensive low grounds, which rising
+into large plains reach the mountains on the east; then passed a willow
+island on the left within one mile and a half, and reached two miles
+further a cliff of rocks in a bend on the same side. In the course of
+another mile and a half he passed two islands covered with cottonwood,
+box-alder, sweet-willow, and the usual undergrowth, like that of the
+Whitebear islands. At thirteen and three quarter miles he came to the
+mouth of a small creek on the left; within the following nine miles he
+passed three timbered islands, and after making twenty-three and a
+quarter miles from the lower camp, arrived at the point of woodland on
+the north where the canoes were constructed.
+
+The day was fair and warm; the men worked very industriously, and were
+enabled by the evening to lanch the boats, which now want only seats and
+oars to be complete. One of them is twenty-five, the other thirty-three
+feet in length and three feet wide. Captain Lewis walked out between
+three and four miles over the rocky bluffs to a high situation, two
+miles from the river, a little below Fort Mountain creek. The country
+which he saw was in most parts level, but occasionally became varied by
+gentle rises and descents, but with no timber except along the water.
+From this position, the point at which the Missouri enters the first
+chain of the Rocky mountains bore south 28 degrees west about
+twenty-five miles, according to our estimate.
+
+The northern extremity of that chain north 73 degrees west at the
+distance of eighty miles.
+
+To the same extremity of the second chain north 65 degrees west one
+hundred and fifty miles.
+
+To the most remote point of a third and continued chain of these
+mountains north 50 degrees west about two hundred miles.
+
+The direction of the first chain was from south 20 degrees east to north
+20 degrees west; of the second, from south 45 degrees east to north 45
+degrees west; but the eye could not reach their southern extremities,
+which most probably may be traced to Mexico. In a course south 75
+degrees west, and at the distance of eight miles is a mountain, which
+from its appearance we shall call Fort Mountain. It is situated in the
+level plain, and forms nearly a square, each side of which is a mile in
+extent. These sides, which are composed of a yellow clay with no mixture
+of rock or stone whatever, rise perpendicularly to the height of three
+hundred feet, where the top becomes a level plain covered, as captain
+Lewis now observed, with a tolerably fertile mould two feet thick, on
+which was a coat of grass similar to that of the plain below: it has the
+appearance of being perfectly inaccessible, and although the mounds near
+the falls somewhat resemble it, yet none of them are so large.
+
+
+
+
+                                CHAPTER XII.
+
+     The party embark on board the canoes--Description of Smith's
+     river--Character of the country, &c.--Dearborne's river
+     described--Captain Clarke precedes the party for the purpose of
+     discovering the Indians of the Rocky mountains--Magnificent rocky
+     appearances on the borders of the river denominated the Gates of
+     the Rocky mountains--Captain Clarke arrives at the three forks of
+     the Missouri without overtaking the Indians--The party arrive at
+     the three forks, of which a particular and interesting description
+     is given.
+
+
+Monday, July 15. We rose early, embarked all our baggage on board the
+canoes, which though light in number are still heavily loaded, and at
+ten o'clock set out on our journey. At the distance of three miles we
+passed an island, just above which is a small creek coming in from the
+left, which we called Fort Mountain creek, the channel of which is ten
+yards wide but now perfectly dry. At six miles we came to an island
+opposite to a bend towards the north side; and reached at seven and a
+half miles the lower point of a woodland at the entrance of a beautiful
+river, which in honour of the secretary of the navy we called Smith's
+river. This stream falls into a bend on the south side of the Missouri,
+and is eighty yards wide. As far as we could discern its course it wound
+through a charming valley towards the southeast, in which many herds of
+buffaloe were feeding, till at the distance of twenty five miles it
+entered the Rocky mountains, and was lost from our view. After dining
+near this place we proceeded on four and three quarter miles to the head
+of an island; four and a quarter miles beyond which is a second island
+on the left; three and a quarter miles further in a bend of the river
+towards the north, is a wood where we encamped for the night, after
+making nineteen and three quarter miles.
+
+We find the prickly pear, one of the greatest beauties as well as the
+greatest inconveniences of the plains, now in full bloom. The sunflower
+too, a plant common on every part of the Missouri from its entrance to
+this place, is here very abundant and in bloom. The lambsquarter,
+wild-cucumber, sandrush, and narrowdock are also common. Two elk, a
+deer, and an otter, were our game to-day.
+
+The river has now become so much more crooked than below that we omit
+taking all its short meanders, but note only its general course, and lay
+down the small bends on our daily chart by the eye. The general width is
+from one hundred to one hundred and fifty yards. Along the banks are
+large beds of sand raised above the plains, and as they always appear on
+the sides of the river opposite to the southwest exposure, seem
+obviously brought there from the channel of the river by the incessant
+winds from that quarter: we find also more timber than for a great
+distance below the falls.
+
+Tuesday 16. There was a heavy dew last night. We soon passed about forty
+little booths, formed of willow bushes as a shelter against the sun.
+These seemed to have been deserted about ten days, and as we supposed by
+the Snake Indians, or Shoshonees, whom we hope soon to meet, as they
+appeared from the tracks to have a number of horses with them. At three
+and three quarter miles we passed a creek or run in a bend on the left
+side, and four miles further another run or small rivulet on the right.
+After breakfasting on a buffaloe shot by one of the hunters, captain
+Lewis resolved to go on ahead of the party to the point where the river
+enters the Rocky mountains and make the necessary observations before
+our arrival. He therefore set out with Drewyer and two of the sick men
+to whom he supposed the walk would be useful: he travelled on the north
+side of the river through a handsome level plain, which continued on the
+opposite side also, and at the distance of eight miles passed a small
+stream on which he observed a considerable quantity of the aspen tree. A
+little before twelve o'clock he halted on a bend to the north in a low
+ground well covered with timber, about four and a half miles below the
+mountains, and obtained a meridian altitude, by which he found the
+latitude was N. 46 degrees 46' 50" 2"'. His route then lay through a
+high waving plain to a rapid where the Missouri first leaves the Rocky
+mountains, and here he encamped for the night.
+
+In the meantime we had proceeded after breakfast one mile to a bend in
+the left, opposite to which was the frame of a large lodge situated in
+the prairie, constructed like that already mentioned above the Whitebear
+islands, but only sixty feet in diameter: round it were the remains of
+about eighty leathern lodges, all which seemed to have been built during
+the last autumn; within the next fifteen and a quarter miles we passed
+ten islands, on the last of which we encamped near the right shore,
+having made twenty-three miles. The next morning,
+
+Wednesday 17, we set out early, and at four miles distance joined
+captain Lewis at foot of the rapids, and after breakfast began the
+passage of them: some of the articles most liable to be injured by the
+water were carried round. We then double manned the canoes, and with the
+aid of the towing-line got them up without accident. For several miles
+below the rapids the current of the Missouri becomes stronger as you
+approach, and the spurs of the mountains advance towards the river,
+which is deep and not more than seventy yards wide: at the rapids the
+river is closely hemmed in on both sides by the hills, and foams for
+half a mile over the rocks which obstruct its channel. The low grounds
+are now not more than a few yards in width, but they furnish room for an
+Indian road which winds under the hills on the north side of the river.
+The general range of these hills is from southeast to northwest, and the
+cliffs themselves are about eight hundred feet above the water, formed
+almost entirely of a hard black granite, on which are scattered a few
+dwarf pine and cedar trees. Immediately in the gap is a large rock four
+hundred feet high, which on one side is washed by the Missouri, while on
+its other sides a handsome little plain separates it from the
+neighbouring mountains. It may be ascended with some difficulty nearly
+to its summit, and affords a beautiful prospect of the plains below, in
+which we could observe large herds of buffaloe. After ascending the
+rapids for half a mile we came to a small island at the head of them,
+which we called Pine island from a large pine tree at the lower end of
+it, which is the first we have seen near the river for a great distance.
+A mile beyond captain Lewis's camp we had a meridian altitude which gave
+us the latitude of 46 degrees 42' 14" 7"'. As the canoes were still
+heavily loaded all those not employed in working them walked on shore.
+The navigation is now very laborious. The river is deep but with little
+current and from seventy to one hundred yards wide; the low grounds are
+very narrow, with but little timber and that chiefly the aspen tree. The
+cliffs are steep and hang over the river so much that often we could not
+cross them, but were obliged to pass and repass from one side of the
+river to the other in order to make our way. In some places the banks
+are formed of rocks, of dark black granite rising perpendicularly to a
+great height, through which the river seems in the progress of time to
+have worn its channel. On these mountains we see more pine than usual,
+but it is still in small quantities. Along the bottoms, which have a
+covering of high grass, we observe the sunflower blooming in great
+abundance. The Indians of the Missouri, and more especially those who do
+not cultivate maize, make great use of the seed of this plant for bread
+or in thickening their soup. They first parch and then pound it between
+two stones until it is reduced to a fine meal. Sometimes they add a
+portion of water, and drink it thus diluted: at other times they add a
+sufficient proportion of marrow grease to reduce it to the consistency
+of common dough and eat it in that manner. This last composition we
+preferred to all the rest, and thought it at that time a very palatable
+dish. There is however little of the broad-leafed cottonwood on this
+side of the falls, much the greater part of what we see being of the
+narrow-leafed species. There are also great quantities of red, purple,
+yellow and black currants. The currants are very pleasant to the taste,
+and much preferable to those of our common garden. The bush rises to the
+height of six or eight feet; the stem simple, branching and erect. These
+shrubs associate in corps either in upper or timbered lands near the
+water courses. The leaf is peteolate, of a pale green, and in form
+resembles the red currant so common in our gardens. The perianth of the
+fruit is one leaved, five cleft, abbriviated and tubular. The corolla is
+monopetallous, funnel-shaped, very long, and of a fine orange colour.
+There are five stamens and one pistillum of the first, the filaments are
+capillar, inserted in the corolla, equal and converging, the anther
+ovate and incumbent. The germ of the second species is round, smooth,
+inferior and pidicelled: the style long and thicker than the stamens,
+simple, cylindrical, smooth and erect. It remains with the corolla until
+the fruit is ripe, the stamen is simple and obtuse, and the fruit much
+the size and shape of our common garden currants, growing like them in
+clusters supported by a compound footstalk. The peduncles are longer in
+this species, and the berries are more scattered. The fruit is not so
+acid as the common currant, and has a more agreeable flavour.
+
+The other species differs in no respect from the yellow currant
+excepting in the colour and flavour of the berries.
+
+The serviceberry differs in some points from that of the United States.
+The bushes are small, sometimes not more than two feet high, and rarely
+exceed eight inches. They are proportionably small in their stems,
+growing very thickly, associated in clumps. The fruit is of the same
+form, but for the most part larger and of a very dark purple. They are
+now ripe and in great perfection. There are two species of gooseberry
+here, but neither of them yet ripe: nor are the chokecherry, though in
+great quantities. Besides there are also at that place the box alder,
+red willow and a species of sumach. In the evening we saw some mountain
+rams or big-horned animals, but no other game of any sort. After leaving
+Pine island we passed a small run on the left, which is formed by a
+large spring rising at the distance of half a mile under the mountain.
+One mile and a half above the island is another, and two miles further a
+third island, the river making small bends constantly to the north. From
+this last island to a point of rocks on the south side the low grounds
+become rather wider, and three quarters of a mile beyond these rocks, in
+a bend on the north, we encamped opposite to a very high cliff, having
+made during the day eleven and a half miles.
+
+Thursday 18. This morning early before our departure we saw a large herd
+of the big-horned animals, who were bounding among the rocks in the
+opposite cliff with great agility. These inaccessible spots secure them
+from all their enemies, and the only danger is in wandering among these
+precipices, where we should suppose it scarcely possible for any animal
+to stand; a single false step would precipitate them at least five
+hundred feet into the water. At one mile and a quarter we passed another
+single cliff on the left; at the same distance beyond which is the mouth
+of a large river emptying itself from the north. It is a handsome, bold,
+and clear stream, eighty yards wide, that is nearly as broad as the
+Missouri, with a rapid current over a bed of small smooth stones of
+various figures. The water is extremely transparent, the low grounds are
+narrow, but possess as much wood as those of the Missouri; and it has
+every appearance of being navigable, though to what distance we cannot
+ascertain, as the country which it waters, is broken and mountainous. In
+honour of the secretary at war we called it Dearborn's river. Being now
+very anxious to meet with the Shoshonees or Snake Indians, for the
+purpose of obtaining the necessary information of our route, as well as
+to procure horses, it was thought best for one of us to go forward with
+a small party and endeavour to discover them, before the daily discharge
+of our guns, which is necessary for our subsistence, should give them
+notice of our approach: if by an accident they hear us, they will most
+probably retreat to the mountains, mistaking us for their enemies who
+usually attack them on this side. Accordingly captain Clarke set out
+with three men, and followed the course of the river on the north side;
+but the hills were so steep at first that he was not able to go much
+faster than ourselves. In the evening however he cut off many miles of
+the circuitous course of the river, by crossing a mountain over which he
+found a wide Indian road which in many places seems to have been cut or
+dug down in the earth. He passed also two branches of a stream which he
+called Ordway's creek, where he saw a number of beaver-dams extending in
+close succession towards the mountains as far as he could distinguish:
+on the cliffs were many of the big-horned animals. After crossing this
+mountain he encamped near a small stream of running water, having
+travelled twenty miles.
+
+On leaving Dearborn's river we passed at three and a half miles a small
+creek, and at six beyond it an island on the north side of the river,
+which makes within that distance many small bends. At two and a half
+miles further is another island: three quarters of a mile beyond this is
+a small creek on the north side. At a mile and a half above the creek is
+a much larger stream thirty yards wide, and discharging itself with a
+bold current on the north side: the banks are low, and the bed formed of
+stones altogether. To this stream we gave the name of Ordway's creek,
+after serjeant John Ordway. At two miles beyond this the valley widens:
+we passed several bends of the river, and encamped in the centre of one
+on the south, having made twenty-one miles. Here we found a small grove
+of the narrow-leafed cottonwood, there being no longer any of the
+broad-leafed kind since we entered the mountains. The water of these
+rivulets which come down from the mountains is very cold, pure, and well
+tasted. Along their banks as well as on the Missouri the aspen is very
+common, but of a small kind. The river is somewhat wider than we found
+it yesterday; the hills more distant from the river and not so high;
+there are some pines on the mountains, but they are principally confined
+to the upper regions of them: the low grounds are still narrower and
+have little or no timber. The soil near the river is good, and produces
+a luxuriant growth of grass and weeds; among these productions the
+sunflower holds a very distinguished place. For several days past we
+have observed a species of flax in the low grounds, the leaf-stem and
+pericarp of which resemble those of the flax commonly cultivated in the
+United States: the stem rises to the height of two and a half or three
+feet, and spring to the number of eight or ten from the same root, with
+a strong thick bark apparently well calculated for use: the root seems
+to be perennial, and it is probable that the cutting of the stems may
+not at all injure it, for although the seeds are not yet ripe, there are
+young suckers shooting up from the root, whence we may infer that the
+stems which are fully grown and in the proper stage of vegetation to
+produce the best flax, are not essential to the preservation or support
+of the root, a circumstance which would render it a most valuable plant.
+To-day we have met with a second species of flax smaller than the first,
+as it seldom obtains a greater height than nine or twelve inches: the
+leaf and stem resemble those of the species just mentioned, except that
+the latter is rarely branched, and bears a single monopetalous
+bell-shaped blue flower, suspended with its limb downwards. We saw
+several herds of the big-horn, but they were in the cliffs beyond our
+reach. We killed an elk this morning and found part of a deer which had
+been left for us by captain Clarke. He pursued his route,
+
+Friday, 19, early in the morning, and soon passed the remains of several
+Indian camps formed of willow brush, which seemed to have been deserted
+this spring. At the same time he observed that the pine trees had been
+stripped of their bark about the same season, which our Indian woman say
+her countrymen do in order to obtain the sap and the soft parts of the
+wood and bark for food. About eleven o'clock he met a herd of elk and
+killed two of them, but such was the want of wood in the neighbourhood
+that he was unable to procure enough to make a fire, and he was
+therefore obliged to substitute the dung of the buffaloe, with which he
+cooked his breakfast. They then resumed their course along an old Indian
+road. In the afternoon they reached a handsome valley watered by a large
+creek, both of which extend a considerable distance into the mountain:
+this they crossed, and during the evening travelled over a mountainous
+country covered with sharp fragments of flint-rock: these bruised and
+cut their feet very much, but were scarcely less troublesome than the
+prickly pear of the open plains, which have now become so abundant that
+it is impossible to avoid them, and the thorns are so strong that they
+pierce a double soal of dressed deer skin: the best resource against
+them is a soal of buffaloe hide in parchment. At night they reached the
+river much fatigued, having passed two mountains in the course of the
+day and having travelled thirty miles. Captain Clarke's first employment
+on lighting a fire was to extract from his feet the briars, which he
+found seventeen in number.
+
+In the meantime we proceeded on very well, though the water appears to
+increase in rapidity as we advance: the current has indeed been strong
+during the day and obstructed by some rapids, which are not however much
+broken by rocks, and are perfectly safe: the river is deep, and its
+general width is from one hundred to one hundred and fifty yards wide.
+For more than thirteen miles we went along the numerous bends of the
+river and then reached two small islands; three and three quarter miles
+beyond which is a small creek in a bend to the left, above a small
+island on the right side of the river. We were regaled about ten o'clock
+P.M. with a thunder storm of rain and hail which lasted for an hour, but
+during the day in this confined valley, through which we are passing,
+the heat is almost insupportable; yet whenever we obtain a glimpse of
+the lofty tops of the mountains we are tantalized with a view of the
+snow. These mountains have their sides and summits partially varied with
+little copses of pine, cedar, and balsam fir. A mile and a half beyond
+this creek the rocks approach the river on both sides, forming a most
+sublime and extraordinary spectacle. For five and three quarter miles
+these rocks rise perpendicularly from the water's edge to the height of
+nearly twelve hundred feet. They are composed of a black granite near
+its base, but from its lighter colour above and from the fragments we
+suppose the upper part to be flint of a yellowish brown and cream
+colour. Nothing can be imagined more tremendous than the frowning
+darkness of these rocks, which project over the river and menace us with
+destruction. The river, of one hundred and fifty yards in width, seems
+to have forced its channel down this solid mass, but so reluctantly has
+it given way that during the whole distance the water is very deep even
+at the edges, and for the first three miles there is not a spot except
+one of a few yards, in which a man could stand between the water and the
+towering perpendicular of the mountain: the convulsion of the passage
+must have been terrible, since at its outlet there are vast columns of
+rock torn from the mountain which are strewed on both sides of the
+river, the trophies as it were of the victory. Several fine springs
+burst out from the chasms of the rock, and contribute to increase the
+river, which has now a strong current, but very fortunately we are able
+to overcome it with our oars, since it would be impossible to use
+either the cord or the pole. We were obliged to go on some time after
+dark, not being able to find a spot large enough to encamp on, but at
+length about two miles above a small inland in the middle of the river
+we met with a spot on the left side, where we procured plenty of
+lightwood and pitchpine. This extraordinary range of rocks we called the
+Gates of the Rocky mountains. We had made twenty-two miles; and four and
+a quarter miles from the entrance of the gates. The mountains are higher
+to-day than they were yesterday. We saw some big-horns, a few antelopes
+and beaver, but since entering the mountains have found no buffaloe: the
+otter are however in great plenty: the musquitoes have become less
+troublesome than they were.
+
+Saturday 20. By employing the towrope whenever the banks permitted the
+use of it, the river being too deep for the pole, we were enabled to
+overcome the current which is still strong. At the distance of half a
+mile we came to a high rock in a bend to the left in the Gates. Here the
+perpendicular rocks cease, the hills retire from the river, and the
+vallies suddenly widen to a greater extent than they have been since we
+entered the mountains. At this place was some scattered timber,
+consisting of the narrow-leafed cottonwood, the aspen, and pine. There
+are also vast quantities of gooseberries, serviceberries, and several
+species of currant, among which is one of a black colour, the flavour of
+which is preferable to that of the yellow, and would be deemed superior
+to that of any currant in the United States. We here killed an elk which
+was a pleasant addition to our stock of food. At a mile from the Gates,
+a large creek comes down from the mountains and empties itself behind an
+island in the middle of a bend to the north. To this stream which is
+fifteen yards wide we gave the name of Potts's creek, after John Potts,
+one of our men. Up this valley about seven miles we discovered a great
+smoke, as if the whole country had been set on fire; but were at a loss
+to decide whether it had been done accidentally by captain Clarke's
+party, or by the Indians as a signal on their observing us. We
+afterwards learnt that this last was the fact; for they had heard a gun
+fired by one of captain Clarke's men, and believing that their enemies
+were approaching had fled into the mountains, first setting fire to the
+plains as a warning to their countrymen. We continued our course along
+several islands, and having made in the course of the day fifteen miles,
+encamped just above an island, at a spring on a high bank on the left
+side of the river. In the latter part of the evening we had passed
+through a low range of mountains, and the country became more open,
+though still unbroken and without timber, and the lowlands not very
+extensive: and just above our camp the river is again closed in by the
+mountains. We found on the banks an elk which captain Clarke had left
+us, with a note mentioning that he should pass the mountains just above
+us and wait our arrival at some convenient place. We saw but could not
+procure some redheaded ducks and sandhill cranes along the sides of the
+river, and a woodpecker about the size of the lark-woodpecker, which
+seems to be a distinct species: it is as black as a crow with a long
+tail, and flies like a jaybird. The whole country is so infested by the
+prickly pear that we could scarcely find room to lie down at our camp.
+
+Captain Clarke on setting out this morning had gone through the valley
+about six miles to the right of the river. He soon fell into an old
+Indian road which he pursued till he reached the Missouri, at the
+distance of eighteen miles from his last encampment, just above the
+entrance of a large creek, which we afterwards called Whiteearth creek.
+Here he found his party so much cut and pierced with the sharp flint and
+the prickly pear that he proceeded only a small distance further, and
+then halted to wait for us. Along his track he had taken the precaution
+to strew signals, such as pieces of cloth, paper and linen, to prove to
+the Indians, if by accident they met his track, that we were white men.
+But he observed a smoke some distance ahead, and concluded that the
+whole country had now taken the alarm.
+
+Sunday 21. On leaving our camp we passed an island at half a mile, and
+reached at one mile a bad rapid at the place where the river leaves the
+mountain: here the cliffs are high and covered with fragments of broken
+rocks, the current is also strong, but although more rapid the river is
+wider and shallower, so that we are able to use the pole occasionally,
+though we principally depend on the towline. On leaving this rapid which
+is about half a mile in extent, the country opens on each side; the
+hills become lower; at one mile is a large island on the left side, and
+four and a half beyond it a large and bold creek twenty-eight yards
+wide, coming in from the north, where it waters a handsome valley: we
+called it Pryor's creek after one of the sergeants, John Pryor. At a
+mile above this creek on the left side of the Missouri we obtained a
+meridian altitude, which gave 46 degrees 10' 32" 9"' as the latitude of
+the place. For the following four miles, the country, like that through
+which we passed during the rest of the day, is rough and mountainous as
+we found it yesterday; but at the distance of twelve miles, we came
+towards evening into a beautiful plain ten or twelve miles wide and
+extending as far the eye could reach. This plain or rather valley is
+bounded by two nearly parallel ranges of high mountains whose summits
+are partially covered with snow, below which the pine is scattered along
+the sides down to the plain in some places, though the greater part of
+their surface has no timber and exhibits only a barren soil with no
+covering except dry parched grass or black rugged rocks. On entering the
+valley the river assumes a totally different aspect; it spreads to more
+than a mile in width, and though more rapid than before, is shallow
+enough in almost every part for the use of the pole, while its bed is
+formed of smooth stones and some large rocks, as it has been indeed
+since we entered the mountains: it is also divided by a number of
+islands some of which are large near the northern shore. The soil of the
+valley is a rich black loam apparently very fertile, and covered with a
+fine green grass about eighteen inches or two feet in height; while that
+of the high grounds is perfectly dry and seems scorched by the sun. The
+timber though still scarce is in greater quantities in this valley than
+we have seen it since entering the mountains, and seems to prefer the
+borders of the small creeks to the banks of the river itself. We
+advanced three and a half miles in this valley and encamped on the left
+side, having made in all fifteen and a half miles.
+
+Our only large game to-day was one deer. We saw however two pheasants of
+a dark brown colour, much larger than the same species of bird in the
+United States. In the morning too, we saw three swans which, like the
+geese, have not yet recovered the feathers of the wing, and were unable
+to fly: we killed two of them, and the third escaped by diving and
+passing down the current. These are the first we have seen on the river
+for a great distance, and as they had no young with them, we presume
+that they do not breed in this neighbourhood. Of the geese we daily see
+great numbers, with their young perfectly feathered except on the wings,
+where both young and old are deficient; the first are very fine food,
+but the old ones are poor and unfit for use. Several of the large brown
+or sandhill crane are feeding in the low grounds on the grass which
+forms their principal food. The young crane cannot fly at this season:
+they are as large as a turkey, of a bright reddish bay colour. Since the
+river has become shallow we have caught a number of trout to-day, and a
+fish, white on the belly and sides, but of a bluish cast on the back,
+and a long pointed mouth opening somewhat like that of the shad.
+
+This morning captain Clarke wishing to hunt but fearful of alarming the
+Indians, went up the river for three miles, when finding neither any of
+them nor of their recent tracks returned, and then his little party
+separated to look for game. They killed two bucks and a doe, and a young
+curlew nearly feathered: in the evening they found the musquitoes as
+troublesome as we did: these animals attack us as soon as the labours
+and fatigues of the day require some rest, and annoy us till several
+hours after dark, when the coldness of the air obliges them to
+disappear; but such is their persecution that were it not for our biers
+we should obtain no repose.
+
+Monday, 22. We set out at an early hour. The river being divided into so
+many channels by both large and small islands, that it was impossible to
+lay it down accurately by following in a canoe any single channel,
+captain Lewis walked on shore, took the general courses of the river,
+and from the rising grounds laid down the situation of the islands and
+channels, which he was enabled to do with perfect accuracy, the view not
+being obstructed by much timber. At one mile and a quarter we passed an
+island somewhat larger than the rest, and four miles further reached the
+upper end of another, on which we breakfasted. This is a large island
+forming in the middle of a bend to the north a level fertile plain ten
+feet above the surface of the water and never overflowed. Here we found
+great quantities of a small onion about the size of a musket ball,
+though some were larger; it is white, crisp, and as well flavoured as
+any of our garden onions; the seed is just ripening, and as the plant
+bears a large quantity to the square foot, and stands the rigours of the
+climate, it will no doubt be an acquisition to settlers. From this
+production we called it Onion island. During the next seven and three
+quarter miles we passed several long circular bends, and a number of
+large and small islands which divide the river into many channels, and
+then reached the mouth of a creek on the north side. It is composed of
+three creeks which unite in a handsome valley about four miles before
+they discharge themselves into the Missouri, where it is about fifteen
+feet wide and eight feet deep, with clear transparent water. Here we
+halted for dinner, but as the canoes took different channels in
+ascending it was some time before they all joined. Here we were
+delighted to find that the Indian woman recognizes the country; she
+tells us that to this creek her countrymen make excursions to procure a
+white paint on its banks, and we therefore call it Whiteearth creek. She
+says also that the three forks of the Missouri are at no great distance,
+a piece of intelligence which has cheered the spirits of us all, as we
+hope soon to reach the head of that river. This is the warmest day
+except one we have experienced this summer. In the shade the mercury
+stood at 80 degrees above 0, which is the second time it has reached
+that height during this season. We encamped on an island after making
+nineteen and three quarter miles.
+
+In the course of the day we saw many geese, cranes, small birds common
+to the plains, and a few pheasants: we also observed a small plover or
+curlew of a brown colour, about the size of the yellow-legged plover or
+jack curlew, but of a different species. It first appeared near the
+mouth of Smith's river, but is so shy and vigilant that we were unable
+to shoot it. Both the broad and narrow-leafed willow continue, though
+the sweet willow has become very scarce. The rosebush, small
+honeysuckle, the pulpy-leafed thorn, southern wood, sage and box-alder,
+narrow-leafed cottonwood, redwood, and a species of sumach, are all
+abundant. So too are the red and black gooseberries, serviceberries,
+chokecherry, and the black, red, yellow, and purple currant, which last
+seems to be a favourite food of the bear. Before encamping we landed and
+took on board captain Clarke with the meat he had collected during this
+day's hunt, which consisted of one deer and an elk: we had ourselves
+shot a deer and an antelope. The musquitoes and gnats were unusually
+fierce this evening.
+
+Tuesday, 23. Captain Clarke again proceeded with four men along the
+right bank. During the whole day the river divided by a number of
+islands, which spread it out sometimes to the distance of three miles:
+the current is very rapid and has many ripples; and the bed formed of
+gravel and smooth stones. The banks along the low grounds are of a rich
+loam, followed occasionally by low bluffs of yellow and red clay, with a
+hard red slatestone intermixed. The low grounds are wide, and have very
+little timber but a thick underbrush of willow, and rose and currant
+bushes: these are succeeded by high plains extending on each side to the
+base of the mountains, which lie parallel to the river about eight or
+twelve miles apart, and are high and rocky, with some small pine and
+cedar interspersed on them. At the distance of seven miles a creek
+twenty yards wide, after meandering through a beautiful low ground on
+the left for several miles parallel to the river, empties itself near a
+cluster of small islands: the stream we called Whitehouse creek after
+Joseph Whitehouse one of the party, and the islands from their number
+received the name of the "Ten islands." About ten o'clock we came up
+with Drewyer, who had gone out to hunt yesterday, and not being able to
+find our encampment had staid out all night: he now supplied us with
+five deer. Three and a quarter miles beyond Whitehouse creek we came to
+the lower point of an island where the river is three hundred yards
+wide, and continued along it for one mile and a quarter, and then passed
+a second island just above it. We halted rather early for dinner in
+order to dry some part of the baggage which had been wet in the canoes:
+we then proceeded, and at five and a half miles had passed two small
+islands. Within the next three miles we came to a large island, which
+from its figure we called Broad island. From that place we made three
+and a half miles, and encamped on an island to the left, opposite to a
+much larger one on the right. Our journey to-day was twenty-two and a
+quarter miles, the greater part of which was made by means of our poles
+and cords, the use of which the banks much favoured. During the whole
+time we had the small flags hoisted in the canoes to apprise the
+Indians, if there were any in the neighbourhood, of our being white men
+and their friends; but we were not so fortunate as to discover any of
+them. Along the shores we saw great quantities of the common thistle,
+and procured a further supply of wild onions and a species of garlic
+growing on the highlands, which is now green and in bloom: it has a flat
+leaf, and is strong, tough, and disagreeable. There was also much of the
+wild flax, of which we now obtained some ripe seed, as well as some
+bullrush and cattail flag. Among the animals we met with a black snake
+about two feet long, with the belly as dark as any other part of the
+body, which was perfectly black, and which had one hundred and
+twenty-eight scuta on the belly and sixty-three on the tail: we also saw
+antelopes, crane, geese, ducks, beaver, and otter; and took up four deer
+which had been left on the water side by captain Clarke. He had pursued
+all day an Indian road on the right side of the river, and encamped late
+in the evening at the distance of twenty-five miles from our camp of
+last night. In the course of his walk he met besides deer a number of
+antelopes and a herd of elk, but all the tracks of Indians, though
+numerous, were of an old date.
+
+Wednesday, 24. We proceeded for four and a quarter miles along several
+islands to a small run, just above which the low bluffs touch the river.
+Within three and a half miles further we came to a small island on the
+north, and a remarkable bluff composed of earth of a crimson colour,
+intermixed with stratas of slate, either black or of a red resembling
+brick. The following six and three quarter miles brought us to an
+assemblage of islands, having passed four at different distances; and
+within the next five miles we met the same number of islands, and
+encamped on the north after making nineteen and a half miles. The
+current of the river was strong and obstructed, as indeed it has been
+for some days by small rapids or ripples which descend from one to three
+feet in the course of one hundred and fifty yards, but they are rarely
+incommoded by any fixed rocks, and therefore, though the water is rapid,
+the passage is not attended with danger. The valley through which the
+river passes is like that of yesterday; the nearest hills generally
+concealing the most distant from us; but when we obtain a view of them
+they present themselves in amphitheatre, rising above each other as they
+recede from the river till the most remote are covered with snow. We saw
+many otter and beaver to-day: the latter seem to contribute very much to
+the number of islands and the widening of the river. They begin by
+damming up the small channels of about twenty yards between the islands;
+this obliges the river to seek another outlet, and as soon as this is
+effected the channel stopped by the beaver becomes filled with mud and
+sand. The industrious animal is then driven to another channel which
+soon shares the same fate, till the river spreads on all sides, and cuts
+the projecting points of the land into islands. We killed a deer and saw
+great numbers of antelopes, cranes, some geese, and a few redheaded
+ducks. The small birds of the plains and the curlew are still abundant:
+we saw but could not come within gunshot of a large bear. There is much
+of the track of elk but none of the animals themselves, and from the
+appearance of bones and old excrement, we suppose that buffaloe have
+sometimes strayed into the valley, though we have as yet seen no recent
+sign of them. Along the water are a number of snakes, some of a brown
+uniform colour, others black, and a third speckled on the abdomen, and
+striped with black and a brownish yellow in the back and sides. The
+first, which are the largest, are about four feet long; the second is of
+the kind mentioned yesterday, and the third resembles in size and
+appearance the garter-snake of the United States. On examining the teeth
+of all these several kinds we found them free from poison: they are fond
+of the water, in which they take shelter on being pursued. The
+mosquitoes, gnats, and prickly pear, our three persecutors, still
+continue with us, and joined with the labour of working the canoes have
+fatigued us all excessively. Captain Clarke continued along the Indian
+road which led him up a creek. About ten o'clock he saw at the distance
+of six miles a horse feeding in the plains. He went towards him, but the
+animal was so wild that he could not get within several hundred paces of
+him: he then turned obliquely to the river where he killed a deer and
+dined, having passed in this valley five handsome streams, only one of
+which had any timber; another had some willows, and was very much dammed
+up by the beaver. After dinner he continued his route along the river
+and encamped at the distance of thirty miles. As he went along he saw
+many tracks of Indians, but none of recent date. The next morning,
+
+Thursday, 25, at the distance of a few miles he arrived at the three
+forks of the Missouri. Here he found that the plains had been recently
+burnt on the north side, and saw the track of a horse which seemed to
+have passed about four or five days since. After breakfast he examined
+the rivers, and finding that the north branch, although not larger,
+contained more water than the middle branch, and bore more to the
+westward, he determined to ascend it. He therefore left a note informing
+captain Lewis of his intention, and then went up that stream on the
+north side for about twenty-five miles. Here Chaboneau was unable to
+proceed any further, and the party therefore encamped, all of them much
+fatigued, their feet blistered and wounded by the prickly pear.
+
+In the meantime we left our camp, and proceeded on very well, though the
+water is still rapid and has some occasional ripples. The country is
+much like that of yesterday: there are however fewer islands, for we
+passed only two. Behind one of them is a large creek twenty-five yards
+wide, to which we gave the name of Gass's creek, from one of our
+serjeants, Patrick Gass: it is formed by the union of five streams,
+which descend from the mountains and join in the plain near the river.
+On this island we saw a large brown bear, but he retreated to the shore
+and ran off before we could approach him. These animals seem more shy
+than they were below the mountains. The antelopes have again collected
+in small herds, composed of several females with their young, attended
+by one or two males, though some of the males are still solitary or
+wander in parties of two over the plains, which the antelope invariably
+prefers to the woodlands, and to which it always retreats if by accident
+it is found straggling in the hills, confiding no doubt in its wonderful
+fleetness. We also killed a few young geese, but as this game is small
+and very incompetent to the subsistence of the party, we have forbidden
+the men any longer to waste their ammunition on them. About four and a
+half miles above Gass's creek, the valley in which we have been
+travelling ceases, the high craggy cliffs again approach the river,
+which now enters or rather leaves what appears to be a second great
+chain of the Rocky mountains. About a mile after entering these hills or
+low mountains we passed a number of fine bold springs, which burst out
+near the edge of the river under the cliffs on the left, and furnished a
+fine freestone water: near these we met with two of the worst rapids we
+have seen since entering the mountains; a ridge of sharp pointed rocks
+stretching across the river, leaving but small and dangerous channels
+for the navigation. The cliffs are of a lighter colour than those we
+have already passed, and in the bed of the river is some limestone which
+is small and worn smooth, and seems to have been brought down by the
+current. We went about a mile further and encamped under a high bluff on
+the right opposite to a cliff of rocks, having made sixteen miles.
+
+All these cliffs appeared to have been undermined by the water at some
+period, and fallen down from the hills on their sides, the stratas of
+rock sometimes lying with their edges upwards, others not detached from
+the hills are depressed obliquely on the side next the river as if they
+had sunk to fill up the cavity formed by the washing of the river.
+
+In the open places among the rocky cliffs are two kinds of gooseberry,
+one yellow and the other red. The former species was observed for the
+first time near the falls, the latter differs from it in no respect
+except in colour and in being of a larger size; both have a sweet
+flavour, and are rather indifferent fruit.
+
+Friday 26. We again found the current strong and the ripples frequent:
+these we were obliged to overcome by means of the cord and the pole, the
+oar being scarcely ever used except in crossing to take advantage of the
+shore. Within three and three quarter miles we passed seven small
+islands and reached the mouth of a large creek which empties itself in
+the centre of a bend on the left side: it is a bold running stream
+fifteen yards wide, and received the name of Howard creek after John P.
+Howard one of the party. One mile beyond it is a small run which falls
+in on the same side just above a rocky cliff. Here the mountains recede
+from the river, and the valley widens to the extent of several miles.
+The river now becomes crowded with islands of which we passed ten in the
+next thirteen and three quarter miles, then at the distance of eighteen
+miles we encamped on the left shore near a rock in the centre of a bend
+towards the left, and opposite to two more islands. This valley has wide
+low grounds covered with high grass, and in many with a fine turf of
+green sward. The soil of the highlands is thin and meagre, without any
+covering except a low sedge and a dry kind of grass which is almost as
+inconvenient as the prickly pear. The seeds of it are armed with a long
+twisted hard beard at their upper extremity, while the lower part is a
+sharp firm point, beset at its base with little stiff bristles, with the
+points in a direction contrary to the subulate point to which they
+answer as a barb. We see also another species of prickly pear. It is of
+a globular form, composed of an assemblage of little conic leaves
+springing from a common root to which their small points are attached
+as a common centre, and the base of the cone forms the apex of the leaf
+which is garnished with a circular range of sharp thorns like the
+cochineal plant, and quite as stiff and even more keen than those of the
+common flat-leafed species. Between the hills the river had been
+confined within one hundred and fifty or two hundred yards, but in the
+valley it widens to two hundred or two hundred and fifty yards, and
+sometimes is spread by its numerous islands to the distance of three
+quarters of a mile. The banks are low, but the river never overflows
+them. On entering the valley we again saw the snow-clad mountains before
+us, but the appearance of the hills as well as of the timber near us is
+much as heretofore.
+
+Finding Chaboneau unable to proceed captain Clarke left him with one of
+the men, and accompanied by the other went up the river about twelve
+miles to the top of a mountain. Here he had an extensive view of the
+river valley upwards and saw a large creek which flowed in on the right
+side. He however discovered no fresh sign of the Indians, and therefore
+determined to examine the middle branch and join us by the time we
+reached the forks: he descended the mountain by an Indian path which
+wound through a deep valley, and at length reached a fine cold spring.
+The day had been very warm, the path unshaded by timber, and his thirst
+was excessive; he was therefore tempted to drink: but although he took
+the precaution of previously wetting his head, feet and hands, he soon
+found himself very unwell; he continued his route, and after resting
+with Chaboneau at his camp, resumed his march across the north fork near
+a large island. The first part was knee deep, but on the other side of
+the island the water came to their waists and was so rapid that
+Chaboneau was on the point of being swept away, and not being able to
+swim would have perished if captain Clarke had not rescued him. While
+crossing the island they killed two brown bear and saw great quantities
+of beaver. He then went on to a small river which falls into the north
+fork some miles above its junction with the two others: here, finding
+himself grow more unwell, he halted for the night at the distance of
+four miles from his last encampment.
+
+Saturday 27. We proceeded on but slowly, the current being still so
+rapid as to require the utmost exertions of us all to advance, and the
+men are losing their strength fast in consequence of their constant
+efforts. At half a mile we passed an island, and a mile and a quarter
+further again entered a ridge of hills which now approach the river with
+cliffs apparently sinking like those of yesterday. They are composed of
+a solid limestone of a light lead colour when exposed to the air, though
+when freshly broken it is of a deep blue, and of an excellent quality
+and very fine grain. On these cliffs were numbers of the bighorn. At two
+and a half miles we reached the centre of a bend towards the south
+passing a small island, and at one mile and a quarter beyond this
+reached about nine in the morning the mouth of a river seventy yards
+wide, which falls in from the southeast. Here the country suddenly opens
+into extensive and beautiful meadows and plains, surrounded on every
+side with distant and lofty mountains. Captain Lewis went up this stream
+for about half a mile, and from the height of a limestone cliff could
+observe its course about seven miles, and the three forks of the
+Missouri, of which this river is one. Its extreme point bore S. 65
+degrees E. and during the seven miles it passes through a green
+extensive meadow of fine grass dividing itself into several streams, the
+largest passing near the ridge of hills on which he stood. On the right
+side of the Missouri a high, wide and extensive plain succeeds to this
+low meadow which reaches the hills. In the meadow a large spring rises
+about a quarter of a mile from this Southeast fork, into which it
+discharges itself on the right side about four hundred paces from where
+he stood. Between the southeast and middle forks a distant range of
+snow-topped mountains spread from east to south above the irregular
+broken hills nearer to this spot: the middle and southwest forks unite
+at half a mile above the entrance of the southeast fork. The extreme
+point at which the former can be seen, bears S. 15 degrees E. and at the
+distance of fourteen miles, where it turns to the right round the point
+of a high plain and disappears from the view. Its low grounds are
+several miles in width, forming a smooth and beautiful green meadow, and
+like the southeast fork it divides itself into several streams. Between
+these two forks and near their junction with that from the southwest, is
+a position admirably well calculated for a fort. It is a limestone rock
+of an oblong form, rising from the plain perpendicularly to the height
+of twenty-five feet on three of its sides; the fourth towards the middle
+fork being a gradual ascent and covered with a fine green sward, as is
+also the top which is level and contains about two acres. An extensive
+plain lies between the middle and southwest forks, the last of which
+after watering a country like that of the other two branches, disappears
+about twelve miles off, at a point bearing south 30 degrees west. It is
+also more divided and serpentine in its course than the other two, and
+possesses more timber in its meadows. This timber consists almost
+exclusively of the narrow-leafed cottonwood, with an inter-mixture of
+box alder and sweet-willow, the underbrush being thick and like that of
+the Missouri lower down. A range of high mountains partially covered
+with snow is seen at a considerable distance running from south to west,
+and nearly all around us are broken ridges of country like that below,
+through which those united streams appear to have forced their passage:
+after observing the country captain Lewis descended to breakfast. We
+then left the mouth of the southeast fork, to which in honour of the
+secretary of the treasury we called Gallatin's river, and at the
+distance of half a mile reached the confluence of the southwest and
+middle branch of the Missouri. Here we found the letter from captain
+Clarke, and as we agreed with him that the direction of the southwest
+fork gave it a decided preference over the others, we ascended that
+branch of the river for a mile, and encamped in a level handsome plain
+on the left: having advanced only seven miles. Here we resolved to wait
+the return of captain Clarke, and in the meantime make the necessary
+celestial observations, as this seems an essential point in the
+geography of the western world, and also to recruit the men and air the
+baggage. It was accordingly all unloaded and stowed away on shore. Near
+the three forks we saw many collections of the mud-nests of the small
+martin attached to the smooth faces of the limestone rock, where they
+were sheltered by projections of the rock above it: and in the meadows
+were numbers of the duck or mallard with their young, who are now nearly
+grown. The hunters returned towards evening with six deer, three otter
+and a muskrat; and had seen great numbers of antelopes, and much sign of
+the beaver and elk.
+
+During all last night captain Clarke had a high fever and chills
+accompanied with great pain. He however pursued his route eight miles to
+the middle branch, where not finding any fresh Indian track he came down
+it and joined us about three o'clock, very much exhausted with fatigue
+and the violence of his fever. Believing himself bilious he took a dose
+of Rush's pills, which we have always found sovereign in such cases, and
+bathing the lower extremities in warm water.
+
+We are now very anxious to see the Snake Indians. After advancing for
+several hundred miles into this wild and mountainous country, we may
+soon expect that the game will abandon us. With no information of the
+route we may be unable to find a passage across the mountains when we
+reach the head of the river, at least such a one as will lead us to the
+Columbia, and even were we so fortunate as to find a branch of that
+river, the timber which we have hitherto seen in these mountains does
+not promise us any fit to make canoes, so that our chief dependence is
+on meeting some tribe from whom we may procure horses. Our consolation
+is, that this southwest branch can scarcely head with any other river
+than the Columbia, and that if any nation of Indians can live in the
+mountains we are able to endure as much as they, and have even better
+means of procuring subsistence.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XIII.
+
+     The name of the Missouri changed, as the river now divides itself
+     into three forks, one of which is called after Jefferson, the other
+     Madison, and the other after Gallatin--their general character--the
+     party ascend the Jefferson branch--description of the river
+     Philosophy which enters into the Jefferson--captain Lewis and a
+     small party go in advance in search of the Shoshonees--description
+     of the country, &c. bordering on the river--captain Lewis still
+     preceding the main party in quest of the Shoshonees--a singular
+     accident which prevented captain Clarke from following captain
+     Lewis's advice, and ascending the middle fork of the
+     river--description of Philanthropy river, another stream running
+     into the Jefferson--captain Lewis and a small party having been
+     unsuccessful in their first attempt, set off a second time in quest
+     of the Shoshonees.
+
+
+Sunday, July 28. Captain Clarke continued very unwell during the night,
+but was somewhat relieved this morning. On examining the two streams it
+became difficult to decide which was the larger or the real Missouri;
+they are each ninety yards wide and so perfectly similar in character
+and appearance that they seem to have been formed in the same mould. We
+were therefore induced to discontinue the name of Missouri, and gave to
+the southwest branch the name of Jefferson in honour of the president of
+the United States, and the projector of the enterprise: and called the
+middle branch Madison, after James Madison secretary of state. These
+two, as well as Gallatin river, run with great velocity and throw out
+large bodies of water. Gallatin river is however the most rapid of the
+three, and though not quite as deep, yet navigable for a considerable
+distance. Madison river though much less rapid than the Gallatin, is
+somewhat more rapid than the Jefferson; the beds of all of them are
+formed of smooth pebble and gravel, and the waters are perfectly
+transparent. The timber in the neighbourhood would be sufficient for
+the ordinary uses of an establishment, which, however, it would be
+adviseable to build of brick, as the earth appears calculated for that
+purpose, and along the shores are some bars of fine pure sand. The
+greater part of the men, having yesterday put their deer skins in water,
+were this day engaged in dressing them, for the purpose of making
+clothing. The weather was very warm, the thermometer in the afternoon
+was at 90 degrees above 0, and the musquitoes more than usually
+inconvenient: we were, however, relieved from them by a high wind from
+the southwest, which came on at four o'clock, bringing a storm of
+thunder and lightning, attended by refreshing showers, which continued
+till after dark. In the evening the hunters returned with eight deer and
+two elk; and the party who had been sent up the Gallatin, reported that
+after passing the point, where it escaped from captain* Lewis's view
+yesterday, it turned more towards the east, as far as they could discern
+the opening of the mountains, formed by the valley which bordered it.
+The low grounds were still wide but not so extensive as near its mouth,
+and though the stream is rapid and much divided by islands, it is still
+sufficiently deep for navigation with canoes. The low grounds, although
+not more than eight or nine feet above the water, seem never to be
+overflowed, except a part on the west side of the middle fork, which is
+stony and seems occasionally inundated, are furnished with great
+quantities of small fruit, such as currants and gooseberries: among the
+last of which is a black species, which we observe not only in the
+meadows but along the mountain rivulets. From the same root rise a
+number of stems to the height of five or six feet, some of them
+particularly branched and all reclining. The berry is attached by a long
+peduncle to the stem, from which they hang of a smooth ovate form, as
+large as the common garden gooseberry, and as black as jet, though the
+pulp is of a bright crimson colour. It is extremely acid: the form of
+the leaf resembles that of the common gooseberry, though larger. The
+stem is covered with very sharp thorns or briars: the grass too is very
+luxuriant and would yield fine hay in parcels of several acres. The
+sand-rushes will grow in many places as high as a man's breast, and as
+thick as stalks of wheat; it would supply the best food during the
+winter to cattle of any trading or military post.
+
+Sacajawea, our Indian woman, informs us that we are encamped on the
+precise spot where her countrymen, the Snake Indians, had their huts
+five years ago, when the Minnetarees of Knife river first came in sight
+of them, and from which they hastily retreated three miles up the
+Jefferson, and concealed themselves in the woods. The Minnetarees,
+however, pursued and attacked them, killed four men, as many women, and
+a number of boys; and made prisoners of four other boys, and all the
+females, of whom Sacajawea was one: she does not, however, show any
+distress at these recollections, nor any joy at the prospect of being
+restored to her country; for she seems to possess the folly or the
+philosophy of not suffering her feelings to extend beyond the anxiety of
+having plenty to eat and a few trinkets to wear.
+
+Monday 29. This morning the hunters brought in some fat deer of the
+long-tailed red kind, which are quite as large as those of the United
+States, and are, indeed, the only kind we have found at this place:
+there are numbers of the sandhill cranes feeding in the meadows; we
+caught a young one of the same colour as the red deer, which, though it
+had nearly attained its full growth could not fly; it is very fierce and
+strikes a severe blow with its beak. The kingfisher has become quite
+common on this side of the falls: but we have seen none of the summer
+duck since leaving that place. The mallard duck, which we saw for the
+first time on the 20th instant, with their young, are now abundant,
+though they do not breed on the Missouri, below the mountains. The small
+birds already described are also abundant in the plains; here too, are
+great quantities of grasshoppers or crickets; and among other animals, a
+large ant with a reddish brown body and legs, and a black head and
+abdomen, who build little cones of gravel, ten or twelve inches high,
+without a mixture of sticks, and but little earth. In the river we see a
+great abundance of fish, but we cannot tempt them to bite by any thing
+on our hooks. The whole party have been engaged in dressing skins, and
+making them into moccasins and leggings. Captain Clarke's fever has
+almost left him, but he still remains very languid and has a general
+soreness in his limbs. The latitude of our camp, as the mean of two
+observations of the meridian altitude of the sun's lower limb with
+octant by back observation is N. 45 degrees 24' 8" 5"'.
+
+Tuesday 30. Captain Clarke was this morning much restored; and,
+therefore, having made all the observations necessary to fix the
+longitude, we reloaded our canoes, and began to ascend Jefferson river.
+The river now becomes very crooked, and forms bends on each side; the
+current too is rapid, and cut into a great number of channels, and
+sometimes shoals, the beds of which consist of coarse gravel. The
+islands are unusually numerous: on the right are high plains
+occasionally forming cliffs of rocks and hills; while the left was an
+extensive low ground and prairie intersected by a number of bayous or
+channels falling into the river. Captain Lewis, who had walked through
+it with Chaboneau, his wife, and two invalids, joined us at dinner, a
+few miles above our camp. Here the Indian woman said was the place where
+she had been made prisoner. The men being too few to contend with the
+Minnetarees, mounted their horses, and fled as soon as the attack began.
+The women and children dispersed, and Sacajawea as she was crossing at a
+shoal place, was overtaken in the middle of the river by her pursuers.
+As we proceeded, the low grounds were covered with cottonwood and a
+thick underbrush, and on both sides of the river, except where the high
+hills prevented it, the ground was divided by bayous, which are dammed
+up by the beaver, which are very numerous here. We made twelve and a
+quarter miles, and encamped on the north side. Captain Lewis proceeded
+after dinner, through an extensive low ground of timber and meadow land
+intermixed; but the bayous were so obstructed by beaver dams, that in
+order to avoid them he directed his course towards the high plain on the
+right. This he gained with some difficulty, after wading up to his waist
+through the mud and water of a number of beaver dams. When he desired to
+rejoin the canoes he found the underbrush so thick, and the river so
+crooked, that this, joined to the difficulty of passing the beaver dams,
+induced him to go on and endeavour to intercept the river at some point
+where it might be more collected into one channel and approach nearer to
+the high plain. He arrived at the bank about sunset, having gone only
+six miles in a direct course from the canoes: but he saw no traces of
+the men, nor did he receive any answer to his shouts nor the firing of
+his gun. It was now nearly dark; a duck lighted near him and he shot it.
+He then went on the head of a small island where he found some
+driftwood, which enabled him to cook his duck for supper, and he laid
+down to sleep on some willow brush. The night was cool, but the
+driftwood gave him a good fire, and he suffered no inconvenience except
+from the mosquitoes.
+
+Wednesday 31. The next morning he waited till after seven o'clock, when
+he became uneasy lest we should have gone beyond his camp last evening
+and determined to follow us. Just as he had set out with this intention,
+he saw one of the party in advance of the canoes; although our camp was
+only two miles below him, in a straight line, we could not reach him
+sooner, in consequence of the rapidity of the water and the circuitous
+course of the river. We halted for breakfast, after which captain Lewis
+continued his route. At the distance of one mile from our encampment we
+passed the principal entrance of a stream on the left, which rises in
+the snowy mountains to the southwest, between Jefferson and Madison
+rivers, and discharges itself by seven mouths, five below, and one three
+miles above this, which is the largest, and about thirty yards wide: we
+called it Philosophy river. The water of it is abundant and perfectly
+clear, and the bed like that of the Jefferson consists of pebble and
+gravel. There is some timber in the bottoms of the river, and vast
+numbers of otter and beaver, which build on its smaller mouths and the
+bayous of its neighbourhood. The Jefferson continues as yesterday,
+shoaly and rapid, but as the islands though numerous are small, it is
+however more collected into one current than it was below, and is from
+ninety to one hundred and twenty yards in width. The low ground has a
+fertile soil of rich black loam, and contains a considerable quantity of
+timber, with the bullrush and cattail flag very abundant in the moist
+parts, while the drier situations are covered with fine grass, tansy,
+thistles, onions, and flax. The uplands are barren, and without timber:
+the soil is a light yellow clay intermixed with small smooth pebble and
+gravel, and the only produce is the prickly-pear, the sedge, and the
+bearded grass, which is as dry and inflammable as tinder. As we
+proceeded the low grounds became narrower, and the timber more scarce,
+till at the distance of ten miles the high hills approach and overhang
+the river on both sides, forming cliffs of a hard black granite, like
+almost all those below the limestone cliffs at the three forks of the
+Missouri: they continue so for a mile and three quarters, where we came
+to a point of rock on the right side, at which place the hills again
+retire, and the valley widens to the distance of a mile and a half.
+Within the next five miles we passed four islands, and reached the foot
+of a mountain in a bend of the river to the left: from this place we
+went a mile and a quarter to the entrance of a small run discharging
+itself on the left, and encamped on an island just above it, after
+making seventeen and three quarter miles. We observe some pine on the
+hills on both sides of our encampment, which are very lofty. The only
+game which we have seen are one bighorn, a few antelopes, deer, and one
+brown bear, which escaped from our pursuit. Nothing was, however, killed
+to-day, nor have we had any fresh meat except one beaver for the last
+two days, so that we are now reduced to an unusual situation, for we
+have hitherto always had a great abundance of flesh.
+
+Thursday, August 1. We left our encampment early, and at the distance of
+a mile, reached a point of rocks on the left side, where the river
+passes though perpendicular cliffs. Two and three quarter miles further
+we halted for breakfast under a cedar tree in a bend to the right: here
+as had been previously arranged, captain Lewis left us, with sergeant
+Gass, Chaboneau, and Drewyer, intending to go on in advance in search of
+the Shoshonees. He began his route along the north side of the river
+over a high range of mountains, as captain Clarke who ascended them on
+the 26th had observed from them a large valley spreading to the north of
+west, and concluded that on leaving the mountain the river took that
+direction; but when he reached that valley, captain Lewis found it to be
+the passage of a large creek falling just above the mountain into the
+Jefferson, which bears to the southwest. On discovering his error, he
+bent his course towards that river, which he reached about two in the
+afternoon, very much exhausted with heat and thirst. The mountains were
+very bare of timber, and the route lay along the steep and narrow
+hollows of the mountain, exposed to the mid-day sun, without air, or
+shade, or water. Just as he arrived there a flock of elk passed, and
+they killed two of them, on which they made their dinner, and left the
+rest on the shore for the party in the canoes. After dinner they resumed
+their march, and encamped on the north side of the river, after making
+seventeen miles; in crossing the mountains captain Lewis saw a flock of
+the black or dark brown pheasant, of which he killed one. This bird is
+one third larger than the common pheasant of the Atlantic States; its
+form is much the same. The male has not however the tufts of long black
+feathers on the side of the neck so conspicuous in the Atlantic
+pheasant, and both sexes are booted nearly to the toes. The colour is a
+uniform dark brown with a small mixture of yellow or yellowish brown
+specks on some of the feathers, particularly those of the tail, though
+the extremities of these are perfectly black for about an inch. The eye
+is nearly black, and the iris has a small dash of yellowish brown; the
+feathers of the tail are somewhat longer than those of our pheasant, but
+the same in number, eighteen, and nearly equal in size, except that
+those of the middle are somewhat the longest; their flesh is white and
+agreeably flavoured.
+
+He also saw among the scattered pine near the top of the mountain, a
+blue bird about the size of a robin, but in action and form something
+like a jay; it is constantly in motion, hopping from spray to spray, and
+its note which is loud and frequent, is, as far as letters can represent
+it, char ah! char ah! char ah!
+
+After breakfast we proceeded on: at the distance of two and a quarter
+miles the river enters a high mountain, which forms rugged cliffs of
+nearly perpendicular rocks. These are of a black granite at the lower
+part, and the upper consists of a light coloured freestone; they
+continue from the point of rocks close to the river for nine miles,
+which we passed before breakfast, during which the current is very
+strong. At nine and a quarter miles we passed an island, and a rapid
+fall with a fall of six feet, and reached the entrance of a large creek
+on the left side. In passing this place the towline of one of the canoes
+broke just at the shoot of the rapids, swung on the rocks and had nearly
+upset. To the creek as well as the rapid we gave the name of Frazier,
+after Robert* Frazier one of the party: here the country opens into a
+beautiful valley from six to eight miles in width: the river then
+becomes crooked and crowded with islands; its lowgrounds wide and
+fertile, but though covered with fine grass from nine inches to two
+feet high; possesses but a small proportion of timber, and that consists
+almost entirely of a few narrow-leafed cottonwood distributed along the
+verge of the river. The soil of the plain is tolerably fertile, and
+consists of a black or dark yellow loam. It gradually ascends on each
+side to the bases of two ranges of high mountains which lie parallel* to
+the river; the tops of them are yet in part covered with snow, and while
+in the valley we are nearly suffocated with heat during the day, and at
+night the air is so cold that two blankets are not more than sufficient
+covering. In passing through the hills we observed some large cedar
+trees, and some juniper also. From Frazier's creek we went three and
+three quarter miles, and encamped on the left side, having come thirteen
+miles. Directly opposite our camp is a large creek which we call Field's
+creek, from Reuben Fields, one of our men. Soon after we halted two of
+the hunters went out and returned with five deer, which, with one
+bighorn, we killed in coming through the mountain on which we dined; and
+the elk left by captain Lewis. We were again well supplied with fresh
+meat. In the course of the day we saw a brown bear but were not able to
+shoot him.
+
+Friday, August 2. Captain Lewis, who slept in the valley a few miles
+above us, resumed his journey early, and after making five miles and
+finding that the river still bore to the south, determined to cross it
+in hopes of shortening the route: for the first time therefore he waded
+across it, although there are probably many places above the falls where
+it might be attempted with equal safety. The river was about ninety
+yards wide, the current rapid, and about waist deep: the bottom formed
+of smooth pebble with a small mixture of coarse gravel. He then
+continued along the left bank of the river till sunset and encamped,
+after travelling twenty-four miles. He met no fresh tracks of Indians.
+Throughout the valley are scattered the bones and excrement of the
+buffaloe* of an old date, but there seems no hope of meeting the animals
+themselves in the mountains: he saw an abundance of deer and antelope,
+and many tracks of elk and bear. Having killed two deer they feasted
+sumptuously, with a desert of currants of different colours; two species
+of red, others yellow, deep purple, and black: to these were added black
+gooseberries and deep purple serviceberries, somewhat larger than ours,
+from which it differs also in colour, size, and the superior excellence
+of its flavour. In the low grounds of the river were many beaver-dams
+formed of willow brush, mud, and gravel, so closely interwoven that they
+resist the water perfectly: some of them were five feet high and
+overflowed several acres of land.
+
+In the meantime we proceeded on slowly, the current being so strong as
+to require the utmost exertions of the men to make any advance even with
+the aid of the cord and pole, the wind being from the northwest. The
+river is full of large and small islands, and the plain cut by great
+numbers of bayous or channels, in which are multitudes of beaver. In the
+course of the day we passed some villages of barking squirrels: we saw
+several rattlesnakes in the plain; young ducks, both of the
+duckon-mallard and red-headed fishing duck species; some geese; also the
+black woodpecker, and a large herd of elk. The channel, current, banks,
+and general appearance of the river, are like that of yesterday. At
+fourteen and three quarter miles we reached a rapid creek or bayou about
+thirty yards wide, to which we gave the name of Birth creek. After
+making seventeen miles we halted in a smooth plain in a bend towards the
+left.
+
+Saturday, 3. Captain Lewis continued his course along the river through
+the valley, which continued much as it was yesterday, except that it now
+widens to nearly twelve miles; the plains too are more broken and have
+some scattered pine near the mountains, where they rise higher than
+hitherto. In the level parts of the plains and the river bottoms there
+is no timber except small cottonwood near the margin, and an undergrowth
+of narrow-leafed willow, small honeysuckle, rosebushes, currants,
+serviceberry, and gooseberry, and a little of a small species of birch;
+it is a finely indented oval of a small size and a deep green colour;
+the stem is simple, ascending and branching, and seldom rises higher
+than ten or twelve feet. The mountains continue high on each side of the
+valley, but their only covering is a small species of pitch-pine with a
+short leaf, growing on the lower and middle regions, while for some
+distance below the snowy tops there is neither timber nor herbage of any
+kind. About eleven o'clock Drewyer killed a doe on which they
+breakfasted, and after resting two hours continued till night, when they
+reached the river near a low ground more extensive than usual. From the
+appearance of the timber captain Lewis supposed that the river forked
+above him, and therefore encamped with an intention of examining it more
+particularly in the morning. He had now made twenty-three miles, the
+latter part of which were for eight miles through a high plain covered
+with prickly pears and bearded grass, which rendered the walking very
+inconvenient: but even this was better than the river bottoms we crossed
+in the evening, which, though apparently level, were formed into deep
+holes as if they had been rooted up by hogs, and the holes were so
+covered with thick grass that they were in danger of falling at every
+step. Some parts of these low grounds, however, contain turf or peat of
+an excellent quality for many feet deep apparently, as well as the
+mineral salts which we have already mentioned on the Missouri. They saw
+many deer, antelopes, ducks, geese, some beaver, and great traces of
+their work, and the small birds and curlews as usual. The only fish
+which they observed in this part of the river is the trout and a species
+of white fish, with a remarkably long small mouth, which one of our men
+recognize as the fish called in the eastern states the bottlenose.
+
+On setting out with the canoes we found the river as usual much crowded
+with islands, the current more rapid as well as shallower, so that in
+many places they were obliged to man the canoes double, and drag them
+over the stone and gravel of the channel. Soon after we set off captain
+Clarke who was walking on shore observed a fresh track which he knew to
+be that of an Indian from the large toes being turned inwards, and on
+following it found that it led to the point of a hill from which our
+camp of last night could be seen. This circumstance strengthened the
+belief that some Indian had strayed thither, and had run off alarmed at
+the sight of us. At two and a quarter miles, is a small creek in a bend
+towards the right, which runs down from the mountains at a little
+distance; we called it Panther creek from an animal of that kind killed
+by Reuben Fields at its mouth. It is precisely the same animal common to
+the western parts of the United States, and measured seven and a half
+feet from the nose to the extremity of the tail. Six and three quarter
+miles beyond this stream is another on the left formed by the drains
+which convey the melted snows from a mountain near it, under which the
+river passes, leaving the low grounds on the right side, and making
+several bends in its course. On this stream are many large beaver dams.
+One mile above it is a small run on the left, and after leaving which
+begins a very bad rapid, where the bed of the river is formed of solid
+rock: this we passed in the course of a mile, and encamped on the lower
+point of an island. Our journey had been only thirteen miles, but the
+badness of the river made it very laborious, as the men were compelled
+to be in the water during the greater part of the day. We saw only deer,
+antelopes, and the common birds of the country.
+
+Saturday 4. This morning captain Lewis proceeded early, and after going
+southeast by east for four miles, reaching a bold running creek, twelve
+yards wide, with clear cold water, furnished apparently by four drains
+from the snowy mountains on the left; after passing this creek he
+changed his direction to southeast, and leaving the valley in which he
+had travelled for the last two days, entered another which bore east. At
+the distance of three miles on this course he passed a handsome little
+river, about thirty yards wide, which winds through the valley: the
+current is not rapid nor the water very clear, but it affords a
+considerable quantity of water, and appears as if it might be navigable
+for some miles. The banks are low, and the bed formed of stone and
+gravel. He now changed his route to southwest, and passing a high plain
+which separates the vallies, returned to the more southern or that which
+he had left: in passing this he found a river about forty-five yards
+wide, the water of which has a whitish blue tinge, with a gentle
+current, and a gravelly bottom. This he waded and found it waist deep.
+He then continued down it, till at the distance of three quarters of a
+mile he saw the entrance of the small river he had just passed; as he
+went on two miles lower down, he found the mouth of the creek he had
+seen in the morning. Proceeding further on three miles, he arrived at
+the junction of this river, with another which rises from the southwest,
+runs through the south valley about twelve miles before it forms its
+junction, where it is fifty yards wide: we now found that our camp of
+last night was about a mile and a half above the entrance of this large
+river, on the right side. This is a bold, rapid, clear stream, but its
+bed is so much obstructed by gravelly bars, and subdivided by islands,
+that the navigation must be very insecure, if not impracticable. The
+other or middle stream, has about two thirds its quantity of water, and
+is more gentle, and may be safely navigated. As far as it could be
+observed, its course was about southwest, but the opening of the valley
+induced him to believe that farther above it turned more towards the
+west. Its water is more turbid and warmer than that of the other branch,
+whence it may be presumed to have its sources at a greater distance in
+the mountains, and to pass through a more open country. Under this
+impression he left a note recommending to captain Clarke the middle
+fork, and then continued his course along the right side of the other,
+or more rapid branch. After travelling twenty-three miles he near a
+place where the river leaves the valley and enters the mountain. Here he
+encamped for the night. The country he passed is like that of the rest
+of this valley, though there is more timber in this part on the rapid
+fork than there has been on the river in the same extent since we
+entered it; for on some parts of the valley the Indians seem to have
+destroyed a great proportion of the little timber there was, by setting
+fire to the bottoms. He saw some antelopes, deer, cranes, geese and
+ducks of the two species common to this country, though the summer duck
+has ceased to appear, nor does it seem to be an inhabitant of this part
+of the river.
+
+We proceeded soon after sunrise: the first five miles we passed four
+bends on the left, and several bayous on both sides. At eight o'clock we
+stopped to breakfast, and found the note captain Lewis had written on
+the 2d instant. During the next four miles, we passed three small bends
+of the river to the right, two small islands, and two bayous on the same
+side. Here we reached a bluff on the left; our next course was six miles
+to our encampment. In this course we met six circular bends on the
+right, and several small bayous, and halted for the night in a low
+ground of cottonwood on the right. Our days journey, though only fifteen
+miles in length, was very fatiguing. The river is still rapid and the
+water though clear is very much obstructed by shoals or ripples at every
+two or three hundred yards: at all these places we are obliged to drag
+the canoes over the stones as there is not a sufficient depth of water
+to float them, and in the other parts the current obliges us to have
+recourse to the cord. But as the brushwood on the banks will not permit
+us to walk on shore, we are under the necessity of wading through the
+river as we drag the boats. This soon makes our feet tender, and
+sometimes occasions severe falls over the slippery stones; and the men
+by being constantly wet are becoming more feeble. In the course of the
+day the hunters killed two deer, some geese and ducks, and the party
+saw antelopes, cranes, beaver and otter.
+
+Monday 5. This morning Chaboneau complained of being unable to march far
+to-day, and captain Lewis therefore ordered him and serjeant Gass to
+pass the rapid river and proceed through the level low ground, to a
+point of high timber on the middle fork, seven miles distant, and wait
+his return. He then went along the north side of the rapid river about
+four miles, where he waded it, and found it so rapid and shallow that it
+would be impossible to navigate it. He continued along the left side for
+a mile and a half, when the mountains came close on the river, and rise
+to a considerable height with a partial covering of snow. From this
+place the course of the river was to the east of north. After ascending
+with some difficulty a high point of the mountain, he had a pleasing
+view of the valley he had passed, and which continued for about twenty
+miles further on each side of the middle fork, which then seemed to
+enter the mountains, and was lost to the view. In that direction,
+however, the hills which terminate the valley are much lower than those
+along either of the other forks, particularly the rapid one, where they
+continue rising in ranges above each other us far as the eye could
+reach. The general course too of the middle fork, as well as that of the
+gap which it forms on entering the mountains, is considerably to the
+south of west; circumstances which gave a decided preference to this
+branch as our future route. Captain Lewis now descended the mountain,
+and crossed over to the middle fork, about five miles distant, and found
+it still perfectly navigable. There is a very large and plain Indian
+road leading up it, but it has at present no tracks, except those of
+horses which seem to have used it last spring. The river here made a
+great bend to the southeast, and he therefore directed his course, as
+well as he could, to the spot where he had directed Chaboneau and Gass
+to repair, and struck the river about three miles above their camp. It
+was now dark, and he, therefore, was obliged to make his way through the
+thick brush of the pulpy-leafed thorn and the prickly pear, for two
+hours before he reached their camp. Here he was fortunate enough to find
+the remains of some meat, which was his only food during the march of
+twenty-five miles to-day. He had seen no game of any sort except a few
+antelopes who were very shy. The soil of the plains is a meagre clay, of
+a light yellow colour, intermixed with a large proportion of gravel, and
+producing nothing but twisted or bearded grass, sedge and prickly pears.
+The drier parts of the low grounds are also more indifferent in point of
+soil than those further down the river, and although they have but
+little grass, are covered with southern wood, pulpy-leafed thorn, and
+prickly pears, while the moist parts are fertile, and supplied with fine
+grass and sandrushes.
+
+We passed within the first four and a quarter miles three small islands,
+and the same number of bad rapids. At the distance of three quarters of
+a mile is another rapid of difficult passage: three miles and three
+quarters beyond this are the forks of the river, in reaching which we
+had two islands and several bayous on different sides to pass. Here we
+had come nine miles and a quarter. The river was straighter and more
+rapid than yesterday, the labour of the navigation proportionally
+increased, and we therefore proceeded very slowly, as the feet of
+several of the men were swollen, and all were languid with fatigue. We
+arrived at the forks about four o'clock, but unluckily captain Lewis's
+note had been left on a green pole which the beaver had cut down and
+carried off with the note, an accident which deprived us of all
+information as to the character of the two branches of the river.
+Observing therefore that the northwest fork was most in our direction,
+and contained as much water as the other, we ascended it; we found it
+extremely rapid, and its waters were scattered in such a manner, that
+for a quarter of a mile we were forced to cut a passage through the
+willowbrush that leaned over the little channels and united at the top.
+After going up it for a mile we encamped on an island which had been
+overflowed, and was still so wet that we were compelled to make beds of
+brush to keep ourselves out of the mud. Our provision consisted of two
+deer which had been killed in the morning.
+
+Tuesday 6. We proceeded up the northwest fork, which we found still very
+rapid, and divided by several islands, while the plains near it were
+intersected by bayous. After passing with much difficulty over stones
+and rapids, we reached a bluff on the right, at the distance of nine
+miles, our general course south 30 degrees west, and halted for
+breakfast. Here we were joined by Drewyer, who informed us of the state
+of the two rivers and of captain Lewis's note, and we immediately began
+to descend the river in order to take the other branch. On going down
+one of the canoes upset, and two others filled with water, by which all
+the baggage was wet, and several articles irrecoverably lost. As one of
+them swung round in a rapid current, Whitehouse was thrown out of her,
+and whilst down the canoe passed over him, and had the water been two
+inches shallower would have crushed him to pieces; but he escaped with a
+severe bruise of his leg. In order to repair these misfortunes we
+hastened to the forks, where we were joined by captain Lewis, and then
+passed over to the left side opposite to the entrance of the rapid fork,
+and encamped on a large gravelly bar, near which there was plenty of
+wood. Here we opened and exposed to dry all the articles which had
+suffered from the water; none of them were completely spoiled except a
+small keg of powder; the rest of the powder, which was distributed in
+the different canoes was quite safe, although it had been under the
+water upwards of an hour. The air is indeed so pure and dry that any
+wood-work immediately shrinks, unless it is kept filled with water; but
+we had planned our powder in small canisters of lead, each containing
+powder enough for the canister when melted into bullets, and smeared
+with cork and wax, which answered our purpose perfectly.
+
+Captain Lewis had risen very early, and having nothing to eat, sent out
+Drewyer to the woodland on the left in search of a deer, and directed
+sergeant Gass to keep along the middle branch to meet us if we were
+ascending it. He then set off with Chaboneau towards the forks, but five
+miles above them, hearing us on the left, struck the river as we were
+descending, and came on board at the forks.
+
+In the evening we killed three deer and four elk, which furnished us
+once more with a plentiful supply of meat. Shannon, the same man who was
+lost before for fifteen days, was sent out this morning to hunt, up the
+northwest fork; when we decided on returning, Drewyer was directed to go
+in quest of him, but he returned with information that he had gone
+several miles up the river without being able to find Shannon. We now
+had the trumpet sounded, and fired several guns, but he did not return,
+and we fear he is again lost.
+
+Wednesday 7. We remained here this morning for the purpose of making
+some celestial observations, and also in order to refresh the men, and
+complete the drying of the baggage. We obtained a meridian altitude
+which gave the latitude of our camp at north 45 degrees 2' 48" 8"'. We
+were now completely satisfied that the middle branch was the most
+navigable, and the true continuation of the Jefferson. The northwest
+fork seems to be the drain of the melting snows of the mountains, its
+course cannot be so long as the other branch, and although it contains
+now as great a quantity of water, yet the water has obviously overflowed
+the old bed, and spread into channels which leave the low grounds
+covered with young grass, resembling that of the adjoining lands, which
+are not inundated; whence we readily infer that the supply is more
+precarious than that of the other branch, the waters of which though
+more gentle are more constant. This northwest fork we called Wisdom
+river.
+
+As soon as the baggage was dried, it was reloaded on board the boats,
+but we now found it so much diminished, that we would we able to proceed
+with one canoe less. We therefore hauled up the superfluous one into a
+thicket of brush where we secured her against being swept away by the
+high tide. At one o'clock all set out, except captain Lewis who remained
+till the evening in order to complete the observation of equal
+altitudes: we passed several bends of the river both to the right and
+left, as well as a number of bayous on both sides, and made seven miles
+by water, though the distance by land is only three. We then encamped on
+a creek which rises in a high mountain to the northeast, and after
+passing through an open plain for several miles, discharges itself on
+the left, where it is a bold running stream twelve yards wide. We called
+it Turf creek, from the number of bogs and the quantity of turf on its
+waters. In the course of the afternoon there fell a shower of rain
+attended with thunder and lightning, which lasted about forty minutes,
+and the weather remained so cloudy all night that we were unable to take
+any lunar observations. Uneasy about Shannon, we sent R. Fields in
+search of him this morning, but we have as yet no intelligence of either
+of them. Our only game to-day was one deer.
+
+Thursday 8. There was a heavy dew this morning. Having left one of the
+canoes, there are now more men to spare for the chace; and four were
+sent out at an early hour, after which we proceeded. We made five miles
+by water along two islands and several bayous, but as the river formed
+seven different bends towards the left, the distance by land was only
+two miles south of our encampment. At the end of that course we reached
+the upper principal entrance of a stream which we called Philanthropy
+river. This river empties itself into the Jefferson on the southeast
+side, by two channels a short distance from each other: from its size
+and its southeastern course, we presume that it rises in the Rocky
+mountains near the sources of the Madison. It is thirty yards wide at
+its entrance, has a very gentle current, and is navigable for some
+distance. One mile above this river we passed an island, a second at the
+distance of six miles further, during which the river makes a
+considerable bend to the east. Reuben Fields returned about noon with
+information that he had gone up Wisdom river till its entrance into the
+mountains, but could find nothing of Shannon. We made seven miles beyond
+the last island, and after passing some small bayous, encamped under a
+few high trees on the left, at the distance of fourteen miles above
+Philanthropy river by water, though only six by land. The river has in
+fact become so very crooked that although by means of the pole which we
+now use constantly we make a considerable distance, yet being obliged to
+follow its windings, at the end of the day, we find ourselves very
+little advanced on our general course. It forms itself into small
+circular bends, which are so numerous that within the last fourteen
+miles we passed thirty-five of them, all inclining towards the right; it
+is however much more gentle and deep than below Wisdom river, and its
+general width is from thirty-five to forty-five yards. The general
+appearance of the surrounding country is that of a valley five or six
+miles wide, enclosed between two high mountains. The bottom is rich,
+with some small timber on the islands and along the river, which
+consists rather of underbrush, and a few cottonwood, birch, and
+willow-trees. The high grounds have some scattered pine, which just
+relieve the general nakedness of the hills and the plain, where there is
+nothing except grass. Along the bottoms we saw to-day a considerable
+quantity of the buffaloe clover, the sunflower, flax, green sward,
+thistle and several species of rye grass, some of which rise to the
+height of three or four feet. There is also a grass with a soft smooth
+leaf which rises about three feet high, and bears its seed very much
+like the timothy, but it does not grow luxuriantly nor would it
+apparently answer so well in our meadows as that plant. We preserved
+some of its seed, which are now ripe, in order to make the experiment.
+Our game consisted of deer and antelope, and we saw a number of geese
+and ducks just beginning to fly, and some cranes. Among the inferior
+animals we have an abundance of the large biting or hare fly, of which
+there are two species, one black, the other smaller and brown, except
+the head which is green. The green or blowing flies unite with them in
+swarms to attack us, and seem to have relieved the eye-gnats who have
+now disappeared. The musquitoes too are in large quantities, but not so
+troublesome as they were below. Through the valley are scattered bogs,
+and some very good turf, the earth of which the mud is composed is of a
+white or bluish white colour, and seems to be argilaceous. On all the
+three rivers, but particularly on the Philanthropy, are immense
+quantities of beaver, otter and muskrat. At our camp there was an
+abundance of rosebushes and briars, but so little timber that we were
+obliged to use willow brush for fuel. The night was again cloudy which
+prevented the lunar observations.
+
+On our right is the point of a high plain, which our Indian woman
+recognizes as the place called the Beaver's-head from a supposed
+resemblance to that object. This she says is not far from the summer
+retreat of her countrymen, which is on a river beyond the mountains, and
+running to the west. She is therefore certain that we shall meet them
+either on this river, or on that immediately west of its source, which
+judging from its present size, cannot be far distant. Persuaded of the
+absolute necessity of procuring horses to cross the mountains, it was
+determined that one of us should proceed in the morning to the head of
+the river, and penetrate the mountains till he found the Shoshonees or
+some other nation who could assist us in transporting our baggage, the
+greater part of which we shall be compelled to leave without the aid of
+horses.
+
+Friday 9. The morning was fair and fine. We set off early, and proceeded
+on very well, though there were more rapids in the river than
+yesterday. At eight o'clock we halted for breakfast, part of which
+consisted of two fine geese killed before we stopped. Here we were
+joined by Shannon for whose safety we had been so uneasy. The day on
+which he left us on his way up Wisdom river, after hunting for some time
+and not seeing the party arrive, he returned to the place where he had
+left us. Not finding us there he supposed we had passed him, and he
+therefore marched up the river during all the next day, when he was
+convinced that we had not gone on, as the river was no longer navigable.
+He now followed the course of the river down to the forks, and then took
+the branch which we are pursuing. During the three days of his absence,
+he had been much wearied with his march, but had lived plentifully, and
+brought the skins of three deer. As far as he had ascended Wisdom river
+it kept its course obliquely down towards the Jefferson. Immediately
+after breakfast, captain Lewis took Drewyer, Shields and M'Neal, and
+slinging their knapsacks they set out with a resolution to meet some
+nation of Indians before they returned, however long they might be
+separated from the party. He directed his course across the low ground
+to the plain on the right, leaving the Beaver's-head about two miles to
+the left. After walking eight miles to the river, which they waded, they
+went on to a commanding point from which he saw the place at which it
+enters the mountain, but as the distance would not permit his reaching
+it this evening, he descended towards the river, and after travelling
+eight miles further, encamped for the evening some miles below the
+mountain. They passed before reaching their camp a handsome little
+stream formed by some large springs which rise in the wide bottom on the
+left side of the river. In their way they killed two antelopes, and took
+with them enough of the meat for their supper and breakfast the next
+morning.
+
+In the meantime we proceeded, and in the course of eleven miles from
+our last encampment passed two small islands, sixteen short round bends
+in the river, and halted in a bend towards the right where we dined. The
+river increases in rapidity as we advance, and is so crooked that the
+eleven miles, which have cost us so much labour, only bring us four
+miles in a direct line. The weather became overcast towards evening, and
+we experienced a slight shower attended with thunder and lightning. The
+three hunters who were sent out killed only two antelopes; game of every
+kind being scarce.
+
+Saturday, 10. Captain Lewis continued his route at an early hour through
+the wide bottom along the left bank of the river. At about five miles he
+passed a large creek, and then fell into an Indian road leading towards
+the point where the river entered the mountain. This he followed till he
+reached a high perpendicular cliff of rocks where the river makes its
+passage through the hills, and which he called the Rattlesnake cliff,
+from the number of that animal which he saw there: here he kindled a
+fire and waited the return of Drewyer, who had been sent out on the way
+to kill a deer: he came back about noon with the skin of three deer and
+the flesh of one of the best of them. After a hasty dinner they returned
+to the Indian road which they had left for a short distance to see the
+cliff. It led them sometimes over the hills, sometimes in the narrow
+bottoms of the river, till at the distance of fifteen miles from the
+Rattlesnake cliffs they reached a handsome open and level valley, where
+the river divided into two nearly equal branches. The mountains over
+which they passed were not very high, but are rugged and continue close
+to the river side. The river, which before it enters the mountain was
+rapid, rocky, very crooked, much divided by islands, and shallow, now
+becomes more direct in its course as it is hemmed in by the hills, and
+has not so many bends nor islands, but becomes more rapid and rocky,
+and continues as shallow. On examining the two branches of the river it
+was evident that neither of them was navigable further. The road forked
+with the river; and captain Lewis therefore sent a man up each of them
+for a short distance, in order that by comparing their respective
+information he might be able to take that which seemed to have been most
+used this spring. From their account he resolved to choose that which
+led along the southwest branch of the river which was rather the smaller
+of the two: he accordingly wrote a note to captain Clarke informing him
+of the route, and recommending his staying with the party at the forks
+till he should return: This he fixed on a dry willow pole at the forks
+of the river, and then proceeded up the southwest branch; but after
+going a mile and a half the road became scarcely distinguishable, and
+the tracks of the horses which he had followed along the Jefferson were
+no longer seen. Captain Lewis therefore returned to examine the other
+road himself, and found that the horses had in fact passed along the
+western or right fork which had the additional recommendation of being
+larger than the other.
+
+This road he concluded to take, and therefore sent back Drewyer to the
+forks with a second letter to captain Clarke apprising him of the
+change, and then proceeded on. The valley of the west fork through which
+he now passed, bears a little to the north of west, and is confined
+within the space of about a mile in width, by rough mountains and steep
+cliffs of rock. At the distance of four and a half miles it opens into a
+beautiful and extensive plain about ten miles long and five or six in
+width: this is surrounded on all sides by higher rolling or waving
+country, intersected by several little rivulets from the mountains, each
+bordered by its wide meadows. The whole prospect is bounded by these
+mountains, which nearly surround it, so as to form a beautiful cove
+about sixteen or eighteen miles in diameter. On entering this cove the
+river bends to the northwest, and bathes the foot of the hills to the
+right. At this place they halted for the night on the right side of the
+river, and having lighted a fire of dry willow brush, the only fuel
+which the country affords, supped on a deer. They had travelled to-day
+thirty miles by estimate: that is ten to the Rattlesnake cliff, fifteen
+to the forks of Jefferson river, and five to their encampment. In this
+cove some parts of the low grounds are tolerably fertile, but much the
+greater proportion is covered with prickly pear, sedge, twisted grass,
+the pulpy-leafed thorn, southern-wood, and wild sage, and like the
+uplands have a very inferior soil. These last have little more than the
+prickly pear and the twisted or bearded grass, nor are there in the
+whole cove more than three or four cottonwood trees, and those are
+small. At the apparent extremity of the bottom above, and about ten
+miles to the westward, are two perpendicular cliffs rising to a
+considerable height on each side of the river, and at this distance seem
+like a gate. In the meantime we proceeded at sunrise, and found the
+river not so rapid as yesterday, though more narrow and still very
+crooked, and so shallow that we were obliged to drag the canoes over
+many ripples in the course of the day. At six and a half miles we had
+passed eight bends on the north, and two small bayous on the left, and
+came to what the Indians call the Beaver's-head, a steep rocky cliff
+about one hundred and fifty feet high, near the right side of the river.
+Opposite to this at three hundred yards from the water is a low cliff
+about fifty feet in height, which forms the extremity of a spur of the
+mountain about four miles distant on the left. At four o'clock we were
+overtaken by a heavy shower of rain, attended with thunder, lightning
+and hail. The party were defended from the hail by covering themselves
+with willow bushes, but they got completely wet, and in this situation,
+as soon as the rain ceased, continued till we encamped. This we did at a
+low bluff on the left, after passing in the course of six and a half
+miles, four islands and eighteen bends on the right, and a low bluff
+and several bayous on the same side. We had now come thirteen miles, yet
+were only four on our route towards the mountains. The game seems to be
+declining, for our hunters procured only a single deer, though we found
+another for us that had been killed three days before by one of the
+hunters during an excursion, and left for us on the river.
+
+
+
+
+                               CHAPTER XIV.
+
+     Captain Lewis proceeds before the main body in search of the
+     Shoshonees--his ill success on the first interview--the party with
+     captain Lewis at length discover the source of the
+     Missouri--captain Clarke with the main body still employed in
+     ascending the Missouri or Jefferson river--captain Lewis's second
+     interview with the Shoshonees attended with success--the
+     interesting ceremonies of his first introduction to the natives,
+     detailed at large--their hospitality--their mode of hunting the
+     antelope--the difficulties encountered by captain Clarke and the
+     main body in ascending the river--the suspicions entertained of
+     captain Lewis by the Shoshonees, and his mode of allaying them--the
+     ravenous appetites of the savages illustrated by a singular
+     adventure--the Indians still jealous, and the great pains taken by
+     captain Lewis to preserve their confidence--captain Clarke arrives
+     with the main body exhausted by the difficulties which they
+     underwent.
+
+
+Sunday, August 11. Captain Lewis again proceeded on early, but had the
+mortification to find that the track which he followed yesterday soon
+disappeared. He determined therefore to go on to the narrow gate or pass
+of the river which he had seen from the camp, in hopes of being able to
+recover the Indian path. For this purpose he waded across the river,
+which was now about twelve yards wide, and barred in several places by
+the dams of the beaver, and then went straight forward to the pass,
+sending one man along the river to his left, and another on the right,
+with orders to search for the road, and if they found it to let him know
+by raising a hat on the muzzle of their guns. In this order they went
+along for about five miles, when captain Lewis perceived with the
+greatest delight a man on horseback at the distance of two miles coming
+down the plain towards them. On examining him with the glass, captain
+Lewis saw that he was of a different nation from any Indians we had
+hitherto met: he was armed with a bow and a quiver of arrows; mounted
+on an elegant horse without a saddle, and a small string attached to the
+under jaw answered as a bridle. Convinced that he was a Shoshonee, and
+knowing how much of our success depended on the friendly offices of that
+nation, captain Lewis was full of anxiety to approach without alarming
+him, and endeavour to convince him that he was a white man. He
+therefore, proceeded on towards the Indian at his usual pace, when they
+were within a mile of each other the Indian suddenly stopt, captain
+Lewis immediately followed his example, took his blanket from his
+knapsack, and holding it with both hands at the two corners, threw it
+above his head and unfolded it as he brought it to the ground as if in
+the act of spreading it. This signal which originates in the practice of
+spreading a robe or a skin, as a seat for guests to whom they wish to
+show a distinguished kindness, is the universal sign of friendship among
+the Indians on the Missouri and the Rocky mountains. As usual, captain
+Lewis repeated this signal three times: still the Indian kept his
+position, and looked with an air of suspicion on Drewyer and Shields who
+were now advancing on each side. Captain Lewis was afraid to make any
+signal for them to halt, lest he should increase the suspicions of the
+Indian, who began to be uneasy, and they too distant to hear his voice.
+He, therefore, took from his pack some beads, a looking-glass and a few
+trinkets, which he had brought for the purpose, and leaving his gun
+advanced unarmed towards the Indian. He remained in the same position
+till captain Lewis came within two hundred yards of him, when he turned
+his horse, and began to move off slowly; captain Lewis then called out
+to him, in as loud a voice as he could, repeating the word, tabba bone!
+which in the Shoshonee language means white man; but looking over his
+shoulder the Indian kept his eyes on Drewyer and Shields, who were still
+advancing, without recollecting the impropriety of doing so at such a
+moment, till captain Lewis made a signal to them to halt; this Drewyer
+obeyed, but Shields did not observe it, and still went forward: seeing
+Drewyer halt the Indian turned his horse about as if to wait for captain
+Lewis who now reached within one hundred and fifty paces, repeating the
+word tabba bone, and holding up the trinkets in his hand, at the same
+time stripping up the sleeve of his shirt to show the colour of his
+skin. The Indian suffered him to advance within one hundred paces, then
+suddenly turned his horse, and giving him the whip, leaped across the
+creek, and disappeared in an instant among the willow bushes: with him
+vanished all the hopes which the sight of him had inspired of a friendly
+introduction to his countrymen. Though sadly disappointed by the
+imprudence of his two men, captain Lewis determined to make the incident
+of some use, and therefore calling the men to him they all set off after
+the track of the horse, which they hoped might lead them to the camp of
+the Indian who had fled, or if he had given the alarm to any small
+party, their track might conduct them to the body of the nation. They
+now fixed a small flag of the United States on a pole, which was carried
+by one of the men as a signal of their friendly intentions, should the
+Indians observe them as they were advancing. The route lay across an
+island formed by a nearly equal division of the creek in the bottom:
+after reaching the open grounds on the right side of the creek, the
+track turned towards some high hills about three miles distant.
+Presuming that the Indian camp might be among these hills, and that by
+advancing hastily he might be seen and alarm them, captain Lewis sought
+an elevated situation near the creek, had a fire made of willow brush,
+and took breakfast. At the same time he prepared a small assortment of
+beads, trinkets, awls, some paint and a looking glass, and placed them
+on a pole near the fire, in order that if the Indians returned they
+might discover that the party were white men and friends. Whilst making
+these preparations a very heavy shower of rain and hail came on, and
+wet them to the skin: in about twenty minutes it was over, and captain
+Lewis then renewed his pursuit, but as the rain had made the grass which
+the horse had trodden down rise again, his track could with difficulty
+be distinguished. As they went along they passed several places where
+the Indians seemed to have been digging roots to-day, and saw the fresh
+track of eight or ten horses, but they had been wandering about in so
+confused a manner that he could not discern any particular path, and at
+last, after pursuing it about four miles along the valley to the left
+under the foot of the hills, he lost the track of the fugitive Indian.
+Near the head of the valley they had passed a large bog covered with
+moss and tall grass, among which were several springs of pure cold
+water: they now turned a little to the left along the foot of the high
+hills, and reached a small creek where they encamped for the night,
+having made about twenty miles, though not more than ten in a direct
+line from their camp of last evening.
+
+The morning being rainy and wet we did not set out with the canoes till
+after an early breakfast. During the first three miles we passed three
+small islands, six bayous on different sides of the river, and the same
+number of bends towards the right. Here we reached the lower point of a
+large island which we called Three-thousand-mile island, on account of
+its being at that distance from the mouth of the Missouri. It is three
+miles and a half in length, and as we coasted along it we passed several
+small bends of the river towards the left, and two bayous on the same
+side. After leaving the upper point of Three-thousand-mile island, we
+followed the main channel on the left side, which led us by three small
+islands and several small bayous, and fifteen bends towards the right.
+Then at the distance of seven miles and a half we encamped on the upper
+end of a large island near the right. The river was shallow and rapid,
+so that we were obliged to be in the water during a great part of the
+day, dragging the canoes over the shoals and ripples. Its course too was
+so crooked, that notwithstanding we had made fourteen miles by water, we
+were only five miles from our encampment of last night. The country
+consists of a low ground on the river about five miles wide, and
+succeeded on both sides by plains of the same extent which reach to the
+base of the mountains. These low grounds are very much intersected by
+bayous, and in those on the left side is a large proportion of bog
+covered with tall grass, which would yield a fine turf. There are very
+few trees, and those small narrow-leafed cottonwood: the principal
+growth being the narrow-leafed willow, and currant bushes, among which
+were some bunches of privy near the river. We saw a number of geese,
+ducks, beaver, otter, deer and antelopes, of all which one beaver was
+killed with a pole from the boat, three otters with a tomahawk, and the
+hunters brought in three deer and an antelope.
+
+Monday, 12. This morning as soon as it was light captain Lewis sent
+Drewyer to reconnoitre if possible the route of the Indians: in about an
+hour and a half he returned, after following the tracks of the horse
+which we had lost yesterday to the mountains, where they ascended and
+were no longer visible. Captain Lewis now decided on making the circuit
+along the foot of the mountains which formed the cove, expecting by that
+means to find a road across them, and accordingly sent Drewyer on one
+side, and Shields on the other. In this way they crossed four small
+rivulets near each other, on which were some bowers or conical lodges of
+willow brush, which seemed to have been made recently. From the manner
+in which the ground in the neighbourhood was torn up the Indians
+appeared to have been gathering roots; but captain Lewis could not
+discover what particular plant they were searching for, nor could he
+find any fresh track, till at the distance of four miles from his camp
+he met a large plain Indian road which came into the cove from the
+northeast, and wound along the foot of the mountains to the southwest,
+approaching obliquely the main stream he had left yesterday. Down this
+road he now went towards the southwest: at the distance of five miles it
+crossed a large run or creek, which is a principal branch of the main
+stream into which it falls, just above the high cliffs or gates observed
+yesterday, and which they now saw below them: here they halted and
+breakfasted on the last of the deer, keeping a small piece of pork in
+reserve against accident: they then continued through the low bottom
+along the main stream near the foot of the mountains on their right. For
+the first five miles the valley continues towards the southwest from two
+to three miles in width; then the main stream, which had received two
+small branches from the left in the valley, turns abruptly to the west
+through a narrow bottom between the mountains. The road was still plain,
+and as it led them directly on towards the mountain the stream gradually
+became smaller, till after going two miles it had so greatly diminished
+in width that one of the men in a fit of enthusiasm, with one foot on
+each side of the river, thanked God that he had lived to bestride the
+Missouri. As they went along their hopes of soon seeing the waters of
+the Columbia arose almost to painful anxiety, when after four miles from
+the last abrupt turn of the river, they reached a small gap formed by
+the high mountains which recede on each side, leaving room for the
+Indian road. From the foot of one of the lowest of these mountains,
+which rises with a gentle ascent of about half a mile, issues the
+remotest water of the Missouri. They had now reached the hidden sources
+of that river, which had never yet been seen by civilized man; and as
+they quenched their thirst at the chaste and icy fountain--as they sat
+down by the brink of that little rivulet, which yielded its distant and
+modest tribute to the parent ocean, they felt themselves rewarded for
+all their labours and all their difficulties. They left reluctantly
+this interesting spot, and pursuing the Indian road through the interval
+of the hills, arrived at the top of a ridge, from which they saw high
+mountains partially covered with snow still to the west of them. The
+ridge on which they stood formed the dividing line between the waters of
+the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. They followed a descent much steeper
+than that on the eastern side, and at the distance of three quarters of
+a mile reached a handsome bold creek of cold clear water running to the
+westward. They stopped to taste for the first time the waters of the
+Columbia; and after a few minutes followed the road across steep hills
+and low hollows, till they reached a spring on the side of a mountain:
+here they found a sufficient quantity of dry willow brush for fuel, and
+therefore halted for the night; and having killed nothing in the course
+of the day supped on their last piece of pork, and trusted to fortune
+for some other food to mix with a little flour and parched meal, which
+was all that now remained of their provisions. Before reaching the
+fountain of the Missouri they saw several large hawks nearly black, and
+some of the heath cocks: these last have a long pointed tail, and are of
+a uniform dark brown colour, much larger than the common dunghill fowl,
+and similar in habits and the mode of flying to the grouse or prairie
+hen. Drewyer also wounded at the distance of one hundred and thirty
+yards an animal which we had not yet seen, but which after falling
+recovered itself and escaped. It seemed to be of the fox kind, rather
+larger than the small wolf of the plains, and with a skin in which
+black, reddish brown, and yellow, were curiously intermixed. On the
+creek of the Columbia they found a species of currant which does not
+grow as high as that of the Missouri, though it is more branching, and
+its leaf, the under disk of which is covered with a hairy pubescence, is
+twice as large. The fruit is of the ordinary size and shape of the
+currant, and supported in the usual manner, but is of a deep purple
+colour, acid, and of a very inferior flavour.
+
+We proceeded on in the boats, but as the river was very shallow and
+rapid, the navigation is extremely difficult, and the men who are almost
+constantly in the water are getting feeble and sore, and so much wore
+down by fatigue that they are very anxious to commence travelling by
+land. We went along the main channel which is on the right side, and
+after passing nine bends in that direction, three islands and a number
+of bayous, reached at the distance of five and a half miles the upper
+point of a large island. At noon there was a storm of thunder which
+continued about half an hour; after which we proceeded, but as it was
+necessary to drag the canoes over the shoals and rapids, made but little
+progress. On leaving the island we passed a number of short bends,
+several bayous, and one run of water on the right side, and having gone
+by four small and two large islands, encamped on a smooth plain to the
+left near a few cottonwood trees: our journey by water was just twelve
+miles, and four in a direct line. The hunters supplied us with three
+deer and a fawn.
+
+Tuesday 13. Very early in the morning captain Lewis resumed the Indian
+road, which led him in a western direction, through an open broken
+country; on the left was a deep valley at the foot of a high range of
+mountains running from southeast to northwest, with their sides better
+clad with timber than the hills to which we have been for some time
+accustomed, and their tops covered in part with snow. At five miles
+distance, after following the long descent of another valley, he reached
+a creek about ten yards wide, and on rising the hill beyond it had a
+view of a handsome little valley on the left, about a mile in width,
+through which they judged, from the appearance of the timber, that some
+stream of water most probably passed. On the creek they had just left
+were some bushes of the white maple, the sumach of the small species
+with the winged rib, and a species of honeysuckle, resembling in its
+general appearance and the shape of its leaf the small honeysuckle of
+the Missouri, except that it is rather larger, and bears a globular
+berry, about the size of a garden pea, of a white colour, and formed of
+a soft white mucilaginous substance, in which are several small brown
+seeds irregularly scattered without any cell, and enveloped in a smooth
+thin pellicle.
+
+They proceeded along a waving plain parallel to this valley for about
+four miles, when they discovered two women, a man and some dogs on an
+eminence at the distance of a mile before them. The strangers first
+viewed them apparently with much attention for a few minutes, and then
+two of them sat down as if to await captain Lewis's arrival. He went on
+till he reached within about half a mile, then ordered his party to
+stop, put down his knapsack and rifle, and unfurling the flag advanced
+alone towards the Indians. The females soon retreated behind the hill,
+but the man remained till captain Lewis came within a hundred yards from
+him, when he too went off, though captain Lewis called out tabba bone!
+loud enough to be heard distinctly. He hastened to the top of the hill,
+but they had all disappeared. The dogs however were less shy, and came
+close to him; he therefore thought of tying a handkerchief with some
+beads round their necks, and then let them loose to convince the
+fugitives of his friendly disposition, but they would not suffer him to
+take hold of them, and soon left him. He now made a signal to the men,
+who joined him, and then all followed the track of the Indians, which
+led along a continuation of the same road they had been already
+travelling. It was dusty and seemed to have been much used lately both
+by foot passengers and horsemen. They had not gone along it more than a
+mile when on a sudden they saw three female Indians, from whom they had
+been concealed by the deep ravines which intersected the road, till they
+were now within thirty paces of each other; one of them a young woman
+immediately took to flight, the other two, an elderly woman and a
+little girl, seeing we were too near for them to escape, sat on the
+ground, and holding down their heads seemed as if reconciled to the
+death which they supposed awaited them. The same habit of holding down
+the head and inviting the enemy to strike, when all chance of escape is
+gone, is preserved in Egypt to this day. Captain Lewis instantly put
+down his rifle, and advancing towards them, took the woman by the hand,
+raised her up, and repeated the word tabba bone! at the sane time
+stripping up his shirt sleeve to prove that he was a white man, for his
+hands and face had become by constant exposure quite as dark as their
+own. She appeared immediately relieved from her alarm, and Drewyer and
+Shields now coming up, captain Lewis gave them some beads, a few awls,
+pewter mirrors, and a little paint, and told Drewyer to request the
+woman to recall her companion who had escaped to some distance, and by
+alarming the Indians might cause them to attack him without any time for
+explanation. She did as she was desired, and the young woman returned
+almost out of breath: captain Lewis gave her an equal portion of
+trinkets, and painted the tawny cheeks of all three of them with
+vermillion, a ceremony which among the Shoshonees is emblematic of
+peace. After they had become composed, he informed them by signs of his
+wish to go to their camp in order to see their chiefs and warriors; they
+readily obeyed, and conducted the party along the same road down the
+river. In this way they marched two miles, when they met a troop of
+nearly sixty warriors mounted on excellent horses riding at full speed
+towards them. As they advanced captain Lewis put down his gun, and went
+with the flag about fifty paces in advance. The chief who with two men
+were riding in front of the main body, spoke to the women, who now
+explained that the party was composed of white men, and showed
+exultingly the presents they had received. The three men immediately
+leaped from their horses, came up to Captain Lewis and embraced him with
+great cordiality, putting their left arm over his right shoulder and
+clasping his back, applying at the same time their left cheek to his,
+and frequently vociferating ah hi e! ah hi e! "I am much pleased, I am
+much rejoiced." The whole body of warriors now came forward, and our men
+received the caresses, and no small share of the grease and paint of
+their new friends. After this fraternal embrace, of which the motive was
+much more agreeable than the manner, captain Lewis lighted a pipe and
+offered it to the Indians who had now seated themselves in a circle
+around the party. But before they would receive this mark of friendship
+they pulled off their moccasins, a custom as we afterwards learnt, which
+indicates the sacred sincerity of their professions when they smoke with
+a stranger, and which imprecates on themselves the misery of going
+barefoot forever if they are faithless to their words, a penalty by no
+means light to those who rove over the thorny plains of their country.
+It is not unworthy to remark the analogy which some of the customs of
+those wild children of the wilderness bear to those recorded in holy
+writ. Moses is admonished to pull off his shoes, for the place on which
+he stood was holy ground. Why this was enjoined as an act of peculiar
+reverence; whether it was from the circumstance that in the arid region
+in which the patriarch then resided, it was deemed a test of the
+sincerity of devotion to walk upon the burning sands barefooted, in some
+measure analogous to the pains inflicted by the prickly pear, does not
+appear. After smoking a few pipes, some trifling presents were
+distributed amongst them, with which they seemed very much pleased,
+particularly with the blue beads and the vermillion. Captain Lewis then
+informed the chief that the object of his visit was friendly, and should
+be explained as soon as he reached their camp; but that in the meantime
+as the sun was oppressive, and no water near, he wished to go there as
+soon as possible. They now put on their moccasins, and their chief,
+whose name was Cameahwait, made a short speech to the warriors. Captain
+Lewis then gave him the flag, which he informed him was among white men
+the emblem of peace, and now that he had received it was to be in future
+the bond of union between them. The chief then moved on, our party
+followed him, and the rest of the warriors in a squadron, brought up the
+rear. After marching a mile they were halted by the chief, who made a
+second harangue, on which six or eight young men rode forward to their
+camp, and no further regularity was observed in the order of march. At
+the distance of four miles from where they had first met, they reached
+the Indian camp, which was in a handsome level meadow on the bank of the
+river. Here they were introduced into an old leathern lodge which the
+young men who had been sent from the party had fitted up for their
+reception. After being seated on green boughs and antelope skins, one of
+the warriors pulled up the grass in the centre of the lodge so as to
+form a vacant circle of two feet diameter, in which he kindled a fire.
+The chief then produced his pipe and tobacco, the warriors all pulled
+off their moccasins, and our party was requested to take off their own.
+This being done, the chief lighted his pipe at the fire within the magic
+circle, and then retreating from it began a speech several minutes long,
+at the end of which he pointed the stem towards the four cardinal points
+of the heavens, beginning with the east and concluding with the north.
+After this ceremony he presented the stem in the same way to captain
+Lewis, who supposing it an invitation to smoke, put out his hand to
+receive the pipe, but the chief drew it back, and continued to repeat
+the same offer three times, after which he pointed the stem first to the
+heavens, then to the centre of the little circle, took three whiffs
+himself, and presented it again to captain Lewis. Finding that this last
+offer was in good earnest, he smoked a little, the pipe was then held to
+each of the white men, and after they had taken a few whiffs was given
+to the warriors. This pipe was made of a dense transparent green stone,
+very highly polished; about two and an half inches long, and of an oval
+figure, the bowl being in the same situation with the stem. A small
+piece of burnt clay is placed in the bottom of the bowl to separate the
+tobacco from the end of the stem, and is of an irregularly round figure,
+not fitting the tube perfectly close, in order that the smoke may pass
+with facility. The tobacco is of the same kind with that used by the
+Minnetarees, Mandans and Ricaras of the Missouri. The Shoshonees do not
+cultivate this plant, but obtain it from the Rocky mountain Indians, and
+some of the bands of their own nation who live further south. The
+ceremony of smoking being concluded, captain Lewis explained to the
+chief the purposes of his visit, and as by this time all the women and
+children of the camp had gathered around the lodge to indulge in a view
+of the first white men they had ever seen, he distributed among them the
+remainder of the small articles he had brought with him. It was now late
+in the afternoon, and our party had tasted no food since the night
+before. On apprising the chief of this circumstance, he said that he had
+nothing but berries to eat, and presented some cakes made of
+serviceberry and chokecherries which had been dried in the sun. On these
+captain Lewis made a hearty meal, and then walked down towards the
+river: he found it a rapid clear stream forty yards wide and three feet
+deep; the banks were low and abrupt, like those of the upper part of the
+Missouri, and the bed formed of loose stones and gravel. Its course, as
+far as he could observe it, was a little to the north of west, and was
+bounded on each side by a range of high mountains, of which those on the
+east are the lowest and most distant from the river.
+
+The chief informed him that this stream discharged itself at the
+distance of half a day's march, into another of twice its size, coming
+from the southwest; but added, on further inquiry, that there was
+scarcely more timber below the junction of those rivers than in this
+neighbourhood, and that the river was rocky, rapid, and so closely
+confined between high mountains, that it was impossible to pass down
+it, either by land or water to the great lake, where as he had
+understood the white men lived. This information was far from being
+satisfactory; for there was no timber here that would answer the purpose
+of building canoes, indeed not more than just sufficient for fuel, and
+even that consisted of the narrow-leafed cotton wood, the red and the
+narrow-leafed willow, the chokecherry, serviceberry and a few currant
+bushes such as are common on the Missouri. The prospect of going on by
+land is more pleasant; for there are great numbers of horses feeding in
+every direction round the camp, which will enable us to transport our
+stores if necessary over the mountains. Captain Lewis returned from the
+river to his lodge, and on his way an Indian invited him into his bower
+and gave him a small morsel of boiled antelope and a piece of fresh
+salmon roasted. This was the first salmon he had seen, and perfectly
+satisfied him that he was now on the waters of the Pacific. On reaching
+this lodge, he resumed his conversation with the chief, after which
+he was entertained with a dance by the Indians. It now proved, as our
+party had feared, that the men whom they had first met this morning had
+returned to the camp and spread the alarm that their enemies, the
+Minnetarees of fort de Prairie, whom they call Pahkees, were advancing
+on them. The warriors instantly armed themselves and were coming down in
+expectation of an attack, when they were agreeably surprised by meeting
+our party. The greater part of them were armed with bows and arrows,
+and shields, but a few had small fusils, such as are furnished by the
+northwest company traders, and which they had obtained from the Indians
+on the Yellowstone, with whom they are now at peace. They had reason to
+dread the approach of the Pahkees, who had attacked them in the course
+of this spring and totally defeated them. On this occasion twenty of
+their warriors were either killed or made prisoners, and they lost their
+whole camp except the leathern lodge which they had fitted up for us,
+and were now obliged to live in huts of a conical figure made with
+willow brush. The music and dancing, which was in no respect different
+from those of the Missouri Indians, continued nearly all night; but
+captain Lewis retired to rest about twelve o'clock, when the fatigues of
+the day enabled him to sleep though he was awaked several times by the
+yells of the dancers.
+
+Whilst all these things were occurring to captain Lewis we were slowly
+and laboriously ascending the river. For the first two and a half miles
+we went along the island opposite to which we encamped last evening, and
+soon reached a second island behind which comes in a small creek on the
+left side of the river. It rises in the mountains to the east and forms
+a handsome valley for some miles from its mouth, where it is a bold
+running stream about seven yards wide: we called it M'Neal's creek,
+after Hugh M'Neal one of our party. Just above this stream and at the
+distance of four miles from our camp is a point of limestone rock on the
+right, about seventy feet high, forming a cliff over the river. From the
+top of it the Beaver's-head bore north 24 degrees east twelve miles
+distant, the course of Wisdom river, that is the direction of its valley
+through the mountains is north 25 degrees west, while the gap through
+which the Jefferson enters the mountains is ten miles above us on a
+course south 18 degrees west. From this limestone rock we proceeded
+along several islands, on both sides, and after making twelve miles
+arrived at a cliff of high rocks on the right, opposite to which we
+encamped in a smooth level prairie, near a few cottonwood trees; but
+were obliged to use the dry willow brush for fuel. The river is still
+very crooked, the bends short and abrupt, and obstructed by so many
+shoals, over which the canoes were to be dragged, that the men were in
+the water three fourths of the day. They saw numbers of otter, some
+beaver, antelopes, ducks, geese, and cranes, but they killed nothing
+except a single deer. They, however, caught some very fine trout, as
+they have done for several days past. The weather had been cloudy and
+cool during the forepart of the day, and at eight o'clock a shower of
+rain fell.
+
+Wednesday 14. In order to give time for the boats to reach the forks of
+Jefferson river, captain Lewis determined to remain here and obtain all
+the information he could collect with regard to the country. Having
+nothing to eat but a little flour and parched meal, with the berries of
+the Indians, he sent out Drewyer and Shields, who borrowed horses from
+the natives, to hunt for a few hours. About the same time the young
+warriors set out for the same purpose. There are but few elk or
+blacktailed deer in this neighbourhood, and as the common red-deer
+secrete themselves in the bushes when alarmed, they are soon safe from
+the arrows, which are but feeble weapons against any animals which the
+huntsmen cannot previously run down with their horses. The chief game of
+the Shoshonees, therefore, is the antelope, which when pursued retreats
+to the open plains, where the horses have full room for the chase. But
+such is its extraordinary fleetness and wind that a single horse has no
+possible chance of outrunning it, or tiring it down; and the hunters are
+therefore obliged to resort to stratagem. About twenty Indians, mounted
+on fine horses, and armed with bows and arrows, left the camp; in a
+short time they descried a herd of ten antelopes: they immediately
+separated into little squads of two or three, and formed a scattered
+circle round the herd for five or six miles, keeping at a wary distance,
+so as not to alarm them till they were perfectly inclosed, and usually
+selecting some commanding eminence as a stand. Having gained their
+positions, a small party rode towards the herd, and with wonderful
+dexterity the huntsman preserved his seat, and the horse his footing, as
+he ran at full speed over the hills, and down the steep ravines, and
+along the borders of the precipices. They were soon outstripped by the
+antelopes, which on gaining the other extremity of the circle were
+driven back and pursued by the fresh hunters. They turned and flew,
+rather than ran in another direction; but there too, they found new
+enemies. In this way they were alternately pursued backwards and
+forwards, till at length, notwithstanding the skill of the hunters, they
+all escaped, and the party after running for two hours returned without
+having caught any thing, and their horses foaming with sweat. This
+chase, the greater part of which was seen from the camp, formed a
+beautiful scene; but to the hunters is exceedingly laborious, and so
+unproductive, even when they are able to worry the animal down and shoot
+him, that forty or fifty hunters will sometimes be engaged for half a
+day without obtaining more than two or three antelopes. Soon after they
+returned, our two huntsmen came in with no better success. Captain Lewis
+therefore made a little paste with the flour, and the addition of some
+berries formed a very palatable repast. Having now secured the good will
+of Cameahwait, captain Lewis informed him of his wish that he would
+speak to the warriors and endeavour to engage them to accompany him to
+the forks of Jefferson river, where by this time another chief with a
+large party of white men were waiting his return: that it would be
+necessary to take about thirty horses to transport the merchandize; that
+they should be well rewarded for their trouble; and that when all the
+party should have reached the Shoshonee camp they would remain some time
+among them, and trade for horses, as well as concert plans for
+furnishing them in future with regular supplies of merchandize. He
+readily consented to do so, and after collecting the tribe together he
+made a long harangue, and in about an hour and a half returned, and told
+captain Lewis that they would be ready to accompany him in the morning.
+
+As the early part of the day was cold, and the men stiff and sore from
+the fatigues of yesterday: we did not set out till seven o'clock. At the
+distance of a mile we passed a bold stream on the right, which comes
+from a snowy mountain to the north, and at its entrance is four yards
+wide, and three feet in depth: we called it Track creek: at six miles
+further we reached another stream which heads in some springs at the
+foot of the mountains on the left. Alter passing a number of bayous and
+small islands on each side, we encamped about half a mile by land below
+the Rattlesnake cliffs. The river was cold, shallow, and as it
+approached the mountains formed one continued rapid, over which we were
+obliged to drag the boats with great labour and difficulty. By using
+constant exertions we succeeded in making fourteen miles, but this
+distance did not carry us more than six and a half in a straight line:
+several of the men have received wounds and lamed themselves in hauling
+the boats over the stones. The hunters supplied them with five deer and
+an antelope.
+
+Thursday 15. Captain Lewis rose early, and having eaten nothing
+yesterday except his scanty meal of flour and berries felt the
+inconveniences of extreme hunger. On inquiry he found that his whole
+stock of provisions consisted of two pounds of flour. This he ordered to
+be divided into two equal parts, and one half of it boiled with the
+berries into a sort of pudding: and after presenting a large share to
+the chief, he and his three men breakfasted on the remainder. Cameahwait
+was delighted at this new dish; he took a little of the flour in his
+hand tasted and examined it very narrowly, asking if it was made of
+roots; captain Lewis explained the process of preparing it, and he said
+it was the best thing he had eaten for a long time.
+
+This being finished, captain Lewis now endeavoured to hasten the
+departure of the Indians who still hesitated, and seemed reluctant to
+move, although the chief addressed them twice for the purpose of urging
+them: on inquiring the reason, Cameahwait told him that some foolish
+person had suggested that he was in league with their enemies the
+Pahkees, and had come only to draw them into ambuscade, but that he
+himself did not believe it: captain Lewis felt uneasy at this
+insinuation: he knew the suspicious temper of the Indians, accustomed
+from their infancy to regard every stranger as an enemy, and saw that if
+this suggestion were not instantly checked, it might hazard the total
+failure of the enterprise. Assuming therefore a serious air, he told the
+chief that he was sorry to find they placed so little confidence in him,
+but that he pardoned their suspicions because they were ignorant of the
+character of white men, among whom it was disgraceful to lie or entrap
+even an enemy by falsehood; that if they continued to think thus meanly
+of us they might be assured no white men would ever come to supply them
+with arms and merchandize; that there was at this moment a party of
+white men waiting to trade with them at the forks of the river; and that
+if the greater part of the tribe entertained any suspicion, he hoped
+there were still among them some who were men, who would go and see with
+their own eyes the truth of what he said, and who, even if there was any
+danger, were not afraid to die. To doubt the courage of an Indian is to
+touch the tenderest string of his mind, and the surest way to rouse him
+to any dangerous achievement. Cameahwait instantly replied, that he was
+not afraid to die, and mounting his horse, for the third time harangued
+the warriors: he told them that he was resolved to go if he went alone,
+or if he were sure of perishing; that he hoped there were among those
+who heard him some who were not afraid to die, and who would prove it by
+mounting their horses and following him. This harangue produced an
+effect on six or eight only of the warriors, who now joined their chief.
+With these captain Lewis smoked a pipe, and then fearful of some change
+in their capricious temper set out immediately. It was about twelve
+o'clock when his small party left the camp, attended by Cameahwait and
+the eight warriors; their departure seemed to spread a gloom over the
+village; those who would not venture to go were sullen and melancholy,
+and the woman were crying and imploring the Great Spirit to protect
+their warriors as if they were going to certain destruction: yet such
+is the wavering inconstancy of these savages, that captain Lewis's party
+had not gone far when they were joined by ten or twelve more warriors,
+and before reaching the creek which they had passed on the morning of
+the 13th, all the men of the nation and a number of women had overtaken
+them, and had changed from the surly ill temper in which they were two
+hours ago, to the greatest cheerfulness and gayety. When they arrived at
+the spring on the side of the mountain where the party had encamped on
+the 12th, the chief insisted on halting to let the horses graze; to
+which captain Lewis assented and smoked with them. They are excessively
+fond of the pipe, in which however they are not able to indulge much as
+they do not cultivate tobacco themselves, and their rugged country
+affords them but few articles to exchange for it. Here they remained for
+about an hour, and on setting out, by engaging to pay four of the party,
+captain Lewis obtained permission for himself and each of his men to
+ride behind an Indian; but he soon found riding without stirrup more
+tiresome than walking, and therefore dismounted, making the Indian carry
+his pack. About sunset they reached the upper part of the level valley
+in the cove through which he had passed, and which they now called
+Shoshonee cove. The grass being burnt on the north side of the river
+they crossed over to the south, and encamped about four miles above the
+narrow pass between the hills noticed as they traversed the cove before.
+The river was here about six yards wide, and frequently dammed up by the
+beaver. Drewyer had been sent forward to hunt, but he returned in the
+evening unsuccessful, and their only supper therefore was the remaining
+pound of flour stirred in a little boiling water and then divided
+between the four white men and two of the Indians.
+
+In order not to exhaust the strength of the men, captain Clarke did not
+leave his camp till after breakfast. Although, he was scarcely half a
+mile below the Rattlesnake cliffs he was obliged to make a circuit of
+two miles by water before he reached them. The river now passed between
+low and rugged mountains and cliffs formed of a mixture of limestone and
+a hard black rock, with no covering except a few scattered pines. At the
+distance of four miles is a bold little stream which throws itself from
+the mountains down a steep precipice of rocks on the left. One mile
+farther is a second point of rocks, and an island, about a mile beyond
+which is a creek on the right, ten yards wide and three feet three
+inches in depth, with a strong current: we called it Willard's creek
+after one of our men, Alexander Willard. Three miles beyond this creek,
+after passing a high cliff on the right opposite to a steep hill, we
+reached a small meadow on the left bank of the river. During its passage
+through these hills to Willard's creek the river had been less torturous
+than usual, so that in the first six miles to Willard's creek we had
+advanced four miles on our route. We continued on for two miles, till we
+reached in the evening a small bottom covered with clover and a few
+cottonwood trees: here we passed the night near the remains of some old
+Indian lodges of brush. The river is as it has been for some days
+shallow and rapid; and our men, who are for hours together in the river,
+suffer not only from fatigue, but from the extreme coldness of the
+water, the temperature of which is as low as that of the freshest
+springs in our country. In walking along the side of the river, captain
+Clarke was very near being bitten twice by rattlesnakes, and the Indian
+woman narrowly escaped the same misfortune. We caught a number of fine
+trout; but the only game procured to-day was a buck, which had a
+peculiarly bitter taste, proceeding probably from its favourite food,
+the willow.
+
+Friday, 16. As neither our party nor the Indians had any thing to eat,
+captain Lewis sent two of his hunters ahead this morning to procure some
+provision: at the same time he requested Cameahwait to prevent his young
+men from going out, lest by their noise they might alarm the game; but
+this measure immediately revived their suspicions: it now began to
+be believed that these men were sent forward in order to apprise the
+enemy of their coming, and as captain Lewis was fearful of exciting any
+further uneasiness, he made no objection on seeing a small party of
+Indians go on each side of the valley under pretence of hunting, but
+in reality to watch the movements of our two men: even this precaution
+however did not quiet the alarms of the Indians, a considerable part of
+whom returned home, leaving only twenty-eight men and three women. After
+the hunters had been gone about an hour, captain Lewis again mounted
+with one of the Indians behind him, and the whole party set out; but
+just as they passed through the narrows they saw one of the spies coming
+back at full speed across the plain: the chief stopped and seemed
+uneasy, the whole band were moved with fresh suspicions, and captain
+Lewis himself was much disconcerted, lest by some unfortunate accident
+some of their enemies might have perhaps straggled that way. The young
+Indian had scarcely breath to say a few words as he came up, when the
+whole troop dashed forward as fast as their horses could carry them, and
+captain Lewis astonished at this movement was borne along for nearly a
+mile before he learnt with great satisfaction that it was all caused
+by the spy's having come to announce that one of the white men had
+killed a deer. Relieved from his anxiety he now found the jolting very
+uncomfortable; for the Indian behind him being afraid of not getting his
+share of the feast had lashed the horse at every step since they set
+off; he therefore reined him in and ordered the Indian to stop beating
+him. The fellow had no idea of losing time in disputing the point,
+and jumping off the horse ran for a mile at full speed. Captain Lewis
+slackened his pace, and followed at a sufficient distance to observe
+them. When they reached the place where Drewyer had thrown out the
+intestines, they all dismounted in confusion and ran tumbling over each
+other like famished dogs: each tore away whatever part he could and
+instantly began to eat it; some had the liver, some the kidneys, in
+short no part on which we are accustomed to look with disgust escaped
+them: one of them who had seized about nine feet of the entrails was
+chewing at one end, while with his hand he was diligently clearing his
+way by discharging the contents at the other. It was indeed impossible
+to see these wretches ravenously feeding on the filth of animals, and
+the blood streaming from their mouths, without deploring how nearly the
+condition of savages approaches that of the brute creation: yet though
+suffering with hunger they did not attempt, as they might have done, to
+take by force the whole deer, but contented themselves with what had
+been thrown away by the hunter. Captain Lewis now had the deer skinned,
+and after reserving a quarter of it gave the rest of the animal to the
+chief to be divided among the Indians, who immediately devoured nearly
+the whole of it without cooking. They now went forward towards the creek
+where there was some brushwood to make a fire, and found Drewyer who had
+killed a second deer: the same struggle for the entrails was renewed
+here, and on giving nearly the whole deer to the Indians, they devoured
+it even to the soft part of the hoofs. A fire being made captain Lewis
+had his breakfast, during which Drewyer brought in a third deer: this
+too, after reserving one quarter, was given to the Indians, who now
+seemed completely satisfied and in good humour. At this place they
+remained about two hours to let the horses graze, and then continued
+their journey, and towards evening reached the lower part of the cove
+having on the way shot an antelope, the greater part of which was given
+to the Indians. As they were now approaching the place where they had
+been told by Captain Lewis they would see the white men, the chief
+insisted on halting: they therefore all dismounted, and Cameahwait with
+great ceremony and as if for ornament, put tippets or skins round the
+necks of our party, similar to those worn by themselves. As this was
+obviously intended to disguise the white men, captain Lewis in order to
+inspire them with more confidence put his cocked hat and feather on the
+head of the chief, and as his own over-shirt was in the Indian form, and
+his skin browned by the sun, he could not have been distinguished from
+an Indian: the men followed his example, and the change seemed to be
+very agreeable* to the Indians.
+
+In order to guard however against any disappointment captain Lewis again
+explained the possibility of our not having reached the forks in
+consequence of the difficulty of the navigation, so that if they should
+not find us at that spot they might be assured of our not being far
+below. They again all mounted their horses and rode on rapidly, making
+one of the Indians carry their flag, so that we might recognise them as
+they approached us; but to the mortification and disappointment of both
+parties on coming within two miles of the forks, no canoes were to be
+seen. Uneasy lest at this moment he should be abandoned, and all his
+hopes of obtaining aid from the Indians be destroyed, captain Lewis gave
+the chief his gun, telling him that if the enemies of his nation were in
+the bushes he might defend himself with it; that for his own part he was
+not afraid to die, and that the chief might shoot him as soon as they
+discovered themselves betrayed. The other three men at the same time
+gave their guns to the Indians, who now seemed more easy, but still
+wavered in their resolutions. As they went on towards the point, captain
+Lewis perceiving how critical his situation had become, resolved to
+attempt a stratagem which his present difficulty seemed completely to
+justify. Recollecting the notes he had left at the point for us, he sent
+Drewyer for them with an Indian who witnessed his taking them from the
+pole. When they were brought, captain Lewis told Cameahwait that on
+leaving his brother chief at the place where the river issues from the
+mountains, it was agreed that the boats should not be brought higher
+than the next forks we should meet; but that if the rapid water
+prevented the boats from coming on as fast as they expected, his brother
+chief was to send a note to the first forks above him to let him know
+where the boats were; that this note had been left this morning at the
+forks, and mentioned that the canoes were just below the mountains, and
+coming slowly up in consequence of the current. Captain Lewis added,
+that he would stay at the forks for his brother chief, but would send a
+man down the river, and that if Cameahwait doubted what he said, one of
+their young men would go with him whilst he and the other two remained
+at the forks. This story satisfied the chief and the greater part of the
+Indians, but a few did not conceal their suspicion, observing that we
+told different stories, and complaining that the chief exposed them to
+danger by a mistaken confidence. Captain Lewis now wrote by the light of
+some willow brush a note to captain Clarke, which he gave to Drewyer,
+with an order to use all possible expedition in ascending the river, and
+engaged an Indian to accompany him by a promise of a knife and some
+beads. At bedtime the chief and five others slept round the fire of
+captain Lewis, and the rest hid themselves in different parts of the
+willow brush to avoid the enemy, who they feared would attack them in
+the night. Captain Lewis endeavoured to assume a cheerfulness he did not
+feel to prevent the despondency of the savages: after conversing gayly
+with them he retired to his musquitoe bier, by the side of which the
+chief now placed himself: he lay down, yet slept but little, being in
+fact scarcely less uneasy than his Indian companions. He was
+apprehensive that finding the ascent of the river impracticable, captain
+Clarke might have stopped below the Rattlesnake bluff, and the messenger
+would not meet him. The consequence of disappointing the Indians at this
+moment would most probably be, that they would retire and secrete
+themselves in the mountains, so as to prevent our having an opportunity
+of recovering their confidence: they would also spread a panic through
+all the neighbouring Indians, and cut us off from the supply of horses
+so useful and almost so essential to our success: he was at the same
+time consoled by remembering that his hopes of assistance rested on
+better foundations than their generosity--their avarice, and their
+curiosity. He had promised liberal exchanges for their horses; but what
+was still move seductive, he had told them that one of their
+country-women who had been taken with the Minnetarees accompanied the
+party below; and one of the men had spread the report of our having with
+us a man perfectly black, whose hair was short and curled. This last
+account had excited a great degree of curiosity, and they seemed more
+desirous of seeing this monster than of obtaining the most favourable
+barter for their horses.
+
+In the meantime we had set out after breakfast, and although we
+proceeded with more ease than we did yesterday, the river was still so
+rapid and shallow as to oblige us to drag the large canoes during the
+greater part of the day. For the first seven miles the river formed a
+bend to the right so as to make our advance only three miles in a
+straight line; the stream is crooked, narrow, small, and shallow, with
+highlands occasionally on the banks, and strewed with islands, four of
+which are opposite to each other. Near this place we left the valley, to
+which we gave the name of Serviceberry valley, from the abundance of
+that fruit now ripe which is found in it. In the course of the four
+following miles we passed several more islands and bayous on each side
+of the river, and reached a high cliff on the right. Two and a half
+miles beyond this the cliffs approach on both sides and form a very
+considerable rapid near the entrance of a bold running stream on the
+left. The water was now excessively cold, and the rapids had been
+frequent and troublesome. On ascending an eminence captain Clarke saw
+the forks of the river and sent the hunters up. They must have left it
+only a short time before captain Lewis's arrival, but fortunately had
+not seen the note which enabled him to induce the Indians to stay with
+him. From the top of this eminence he could discover only three trees
+through the whole country, nor was there along the sides of the cliffs
+they had passed in the course of the day, any timber except a few small
+pines: the low grounds were supplied with willow, currant bushes, and
+serviceberries. After advancing half a mile further we came to the lower
+point of an island near the middle of the river, and about the centre of
+the valley: here we halted for the night, only four miles by land,
+though ten by water, below the point where captain Lewis lay. Although
+we had made only fourteen miles, the labours of the men had fatigued and
+exhausted them very much: we therefore collected some small willow brush
+for a fire, and lay down to sleep.
+
+
+
+
+                               CHAPTER XV.
+
+     Affecting interview between the wife of Chaboneau and the chief of
+     the Shoshonees--Council held with that nation, and favourable
+     result--The extreme navigable point of the Missouri
+     mentioned--General character of the river and of the country
+     through which it passes--Captain Clarke in exploring the source of
+     the Columbia falls in company with another party of Shoshonees--The
+     geographical information acquired from one of that party--Their
+     manner of catching fish--The party reach Lewis river--The
+     difficulties which captain Clarke had to encounter in his
+     route--Friendship and hospitality of the Shoshonees--The party with
+     captain Lewis employed in making saddles, and preparing for the
+     journey.
+
+
+Saturday, August 17. Captain Lewis rose very early and despatched
+Drewyer and the Indian down the river in quest of the boats. Shields was
+sent out at the same time to hunt, while M'Neal prepared a breakfast out
+of the remainder of the meat. Drewyer had been gone about two hours, and
+the Indians were all anxiously waiting for some news, when an Indian who
+had straggled a short distance down the river, returned with a report
+that he had seen the white men, who were only a short distance below,
+and were coming on. The Indians were all transported with joy, and the
+chief in the warmth of his satisfaction renewed his embrace to captain
+Lewis, who was quite as much delighted as the Indians themselves; the
+report proved most agreeably true. On setting out at seven o'clock,
+captain Clarke with Chaboneau and his wife walked on shore, but they had
+not gone more than a mile before captain Clarke saw Sacajawea, who was
+with her husband one hundred yards ahead, began to dance, and show every
+mark of the most extravagant joy, turning round him and pointing to
+several Indians, whom he now saw advancing on horseback, sucking her
+fingers at the same time to indicate that they were of her native tribe.
+As they advanced captain Clarke discovered among them Drewyer dressed
+like an Indian, from whom he learnt the situation of the party. While
+the boats were performing the circuit, he went towards the forks with
+the Indians, who as they went along, sang aloud with the greatest
+appearance of delight. We soon drew near to the camp, and just as we
+approached it a woman made her way through the crowd towards Sacajawea,
+and recognising each other, they embraced with the most tender
+affection. The meeting of these two young women had in it something
+peculiarly touching, not only in the ardent manner in which their
+feelings were expressed, but from the real interest of their situation.
+They had been companions in childhood, in the war with the Minnetarees
+they had both been taken prisoners in the same battle, they had shared
+and softened the rigours of their captivity, till one of them had
+escaped from the Minnetarees, with scarce a hope of ever seeing her
+friend relieved from the hands of her enemies. While Sacajawea was
+renewing among the women the friendships of former days, captain Clarke
+went on, and was received by captain Lewis and the chief, who after the
+first embraces and salutations were over, conducted him to a sort of
+circular tent or shade of willows. Here he was seated on a white robe;
+and the chief immediately tied in his hair six small shells resembling
+pearls, an ornament highly valued by these people, who procured them in
+the course of trade from the seacoast. The moccasins of the whole party
+were then taken off, and after much ceremony the smoking began. After
+this the conference was to be opened, and glad of an opportunity of
+being able to converse more intelligibly, Sacajawea was sent for; she
+came into the tent, sat down, and was beginning to interpret, when in
+the person of Cameahwait she recognised her brother: she instantly
+jumped up, and ran and embraced him, throwing over him her blanket and
+weeping profusely; the chief was himself moved, though not in the same
+degree. After some conversation between them she resumed her seat, and
+attempted to interpret for us, but her new situation seemed to
+overpower her, and she was frequently interrupted by her tears. After
+the council was finished, the unfortunate woman learnt that all her
+family were dead except two brothers, one of whom was absent, and a son
+of her eldest sister, a small boy, who was immediately adopted by her.
+The canoes arriving soon after, we formed a camp in a meadow on the left
+side, a little below the forks; took out our baggage, and by means of
+our sails and willow poles formed a canopy for our Indian visitors.
+About four o'clock the chiefs and warriors were collected, and after the
+customary ceremony of taking off the moccasins and smoking a pipe, we
+explained to them in a long harangue the purposes of our visit, making
+themselves one conspicuous object of the good wishes of our government,
+on whose strength as well as its friendly disposition we expatiated. We
+told them of their dependance on the will of our government for all
+future supplies of whatever was necessary either for their comfort or
+defence; that as we were sent to discover the best route by which
+merchandize could be conveyed to them, and no trade would be begun
+before our return, it was mutually advantageous that we should proceed
+with as little delay as possible; that we were under the necessity of
+requesting them to furnish us with horses to transport our baggage
+across the mountains, and a guide to show us the route, but that they
+should be amply remunerated for their horses, as well as for every other
+service they should render us. In the meantime our first wish was, that
+they should immediately collect as many horses as were necessary to
+transport our baggage to their village, where, at our leisure we would
+trade with them for as many horses as they could spare.
+
+The speech made a favourable impression: the chief in reply thanked us
+for our expressions of friendship towards himself and his nation, and
+declared their willingness to render us every service. He lamented that
+it would be so long before they should be supplied with firearms, but
+that till then they could subsist as they had heretofore done. He
+concluded by saying that there were not horses here sufficient to
+transport our goods, but that he would return to the village to-morrow,
+and bring all his own horses, and encourage his people to come over with
+theirs. The conference being ended to our satisfaction, we now inquired
+of Cameahwait what chiefs were among the party, and he pointed out two
+of them. We then distributed our presents: to Cameahwait we gave a medal
+of the small size, with the likeness of president Jefferson, and on the
+reverse a figure of hands clasped with a pipe and tomahawk: to this was
+added an uniform coat, a shirt, a pair of scarlet leggings, a carrot of
+tobacco, and some small articles. Each of the other chiefs received a
+small medal struck during the presidency of general Washington, a shirt,
+handkerchief, leggings, a knife, and some tobacco. Medals of the same
+sort were also presented to two young warriors, who though not chiefs
+were promising youths and very much respected in the tribe. These
+honorary gifts were followed by presents of paint, moccasins, awls,
+knives, beads and looking-glasses. We also gave them all a plentiful
+meal of Indian corn, of which the hull is taken off by being boiled in
+lye; and as this was the first they had ever tasted, they were very much
+pleased with it. They had indeed abundant sources of surprise in all
+they saw: the appearance of the men, their arms, their clothing, the
+canoes, the strange looks of the negro, and the sagacity of our dog, all
+in turn shared their admiration, which was raised to astonishment by a
+shot from the airgun: this operation was instantly considered as a
+_great medicine_, by which they as well as the other Indians mean
+something emanating directly from the Great Spirit, or produced by his
+invisible and incomprehensible agency. The display of all these riches
+had been intermixed with inquiries into the geographical situation of
+their country; for we had learnt by experience, that to keep the savages
+in good temper their attention should not be wearied with too much
+business; but that the serious affairs should be enlivened by a mixture
+of what is new and entertaining. Our hunters brought in very seasonably
+four deer and an antelope, the last of which we gave to the Indians, who
+in a very short time devoured it. After the council was over, we
+consulted as to our future operations. The game does not promise to last
+here for a number of days, and this circumstance combined with many
+others to induce our going on as soon as possible. Our Indian
+information as to the state of the Columbia is of a very alarming kind,
+and our first object is of course to ascertain the practicability of
+descending it, of which the Indians discourage our expectations. It was
+therefore agreed that captain Clarke should set off in the morning with
+eleven men, furnished, besides their arms, with tools for making canoes;
+that he should take Chaboneau and his wife to the camp of the
+Shoshonees, where he was to leave them, in order to hasten the
+collection of horses; that he was then to lead his men down to the
+Columbia, and if he found it navigable, and the timber in sufficient
+quantity, begin to build canoes. As soon as he had decided as to the
+propriety of proceeding down the Columbia or across the mountains, he
+was to send back one of the men with information of it to captain Lewis,
+who by that time would have brought up the whole party, and the rest of
+the baggage as far as the Shoshonee village.
+
+Preparations were accordingly made this evening for such an arrangement.
+The sun is excessively hot in the day time, but the nights very cold,
+and rendered still more unpleasant from the want of any fuel except
+willow brush. The appearances too of game, for many days' subsistence,
+are not very favourable.
+
+Sunday 18. In order to relieve the men of captain Clarke's party from
+the heavy weight of their arms provisions and tools, we exposed a few
+articles to barter for horses, and soon obtained three very good ones,
+in exchange for which we gave a uniform coat, a pair of leggings, a few
+handkerchiefs, three knifes and some other small articles, the whole of
+which did not in the United States cost more than twenty dollars: a
+fourth was purchased by the men for an old checkered shirt, a pair of
+old leggings and a knife. The Indians seemed to be quite as well pleased
+as ourselves at the bargains they had made. We now found that the two
+inferior chiefs were somewhat displeased at not having received a
+present equal to that given to the great chief, who appeared in a dress
+so much finer than their own. To allay their discontent, we bestowed on
+them two old coats, and promised them that if they were active in
+assisting us across the mountains they should have an additional
+present. This treatment completely reconciled them, and the whole Indian
+party, except two men and two women, set out in perfect good humour to
+return home with captain Clarke. After going fifteen miles through a
+wide level valley with no wood but willows and shrubs, he encamped in
+the Shoshonee cove near a narrow pass where the highlands approach
+within two hundred yards of each other, and the river is only ten yards
+wide. The Indians went on further, except the three chiefs and two young
+men, who assisted in eating two deer brought in by the hunters. After
+their departure every thing was prepared for the transportation of the
+baggage, which was now exposed to the air and dried. Our game was one
+deer and a beaver, and we saw an abundance of trout in the river for
+which we fixed a net in the evening.
+
+We have now reached the extreme navigable point of the Missouri, which
+our observation places in latitude 43 degrees 30' 43" north. It is
+difficult to comprise in any general description the characteristics of
+a river so extensive, and fed by so many streams which have their
+sources in a great variety of soils and climates. But the Missouri is
+still sufficiently powerful to give to all its waters something of a
+common character, which is of course decided by the nature of the
+country through which it passes. The bed of the river is chiefly
+composed of a blue mud from which the water itself derives a deep
+tinge. From its junction here to the place near which it leaves the
+mountains, its course is embarrassed by rapids and rocks which the hills
+on each side have thrown into its channel. From that place, its current,
+with the exception of the falls, is not difficult of navigation, nor is
+there much variation in its appearance till the mouth of the Platte.
+That powerful river throws out vast quantities of coarse sand which
+contribute to give a new face to the Missouri, which is now much more
+impeded by islands. The sand, as it is drifted down, adheres in time to
+some of the projecting points from the shore, and forms a barrier to the
+mud, which at length fills to the same height with the sandbar itself;
+as soon as it has acquired a consistency, the willow grows there the
+first year, and by its roots assists the solidity of the whole: as the
+mud and sand accumulate the cottonwood tree next appears; till the
+gradual excretion of soils raises the surface of the point above the
+highest freshets. Thus stopped in its course the water seeks a passage
+elsewhere, and as the soil on each side is light and yielding, what was
+only a peninsula, becomes gradually an island, and the river indemnifies
+itself for the usurpation by encroaching on the adjacent shore. In this
+way the Missouri like the Mississippi is constantly cutting off the
+projections of the shore, and leaving its ancient channel, which is then
+marked by the mud it has deposited and a few stagnant ponds.
+
+The general appearance of the country as it presents itself on ascending
+may be thus described: From its mouth to the two Charletons, a ridge of
+highlands borders the river at a small distance, leaving between them
+fine rich meadows. From the mouth of the two Charletons the hills recede
+from the river, giving greater extent to the low grounds, but they again
+approach the river for a short distance near Grand river, and again at
+Snake creek. From that point they retire, nor do they come again to the
+neighbourhood of the river till above the Sauk prairie, where they are
+comparatively low and small. Thence they diverge and reappear at the
+Charaton Searty, after which they are scarcely if at all discernible,
+till they advance to the Missouri nearly opposite to the Kanzas.
+
+The same ridge of hills extends on the south side, in almost one
+unbroken chain, from the mouth of the Missouri to the Kanzas, though
+decreasing in height beyond the Osage. As they are nearer the river than
+the hills on the opposite sides, the intermediate low grounds are of
+course narrower, but the general character of the soil is common to both
+sides.
+
+In the meadows and along the shore, the tree most common is the
+cottonwood, which with the willow forms almost the exclusive growth of
+the Missouri. The hills or rather high grounds, for they do not rise
+higher than from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet, are composed
+of a good rich black soil, which is perfectly susceptible of
+cultivation, though it becomes richer on the hills beyond the Platte,
+and are in general thinly covered with timber. Beyond these hills the
+country extends into high open plains, which are on both sides
+sufficiently fertile, but the south has the advantage of better streams
+of water, and may therefore be considered as preferable for settlements.
+The lands, however, become much better and the timber more abundant
+between the Osage and the Kanzas. From the Kanzas to the Nadawa the
+hills continue at nearly an equal distance, varying from four to eight
+miles from each other, except that from the little Platte to nearly
+opposite the ancient Kanzas village, the hills are more remote, and the
+meadows of course wider on the north side of the river. From the Nadawa
+the northern hills disappear, except at occasional intervals, where they
+are seen at a distance, till they return about twenty-seven miles above
+the Platte near the ancient village of the Ayoways. On the south the
+hills continue close to the river from the ancient village of the Kanzas
+up to Council bluff, fifty miles beyond the Platte; forming high
+prairie lands. On both sides the lands are good, and perhaps this
+distance from the Osage to the Platte may be recommended as among the
+best districts on the Missouri for the purposes of settlers.
+
+From the Ayoway village the northern hills again retire from the river,
+to which they do not return till three hundred and twenty miles above,
+at Floyd's river. The hills on the south also leave the river at Council
+bluffs, and reappear at the Mahar village, two hundred miles up the
+Missouri. The country thus abandoned by the hills is more open and the
+timber in smaller quantities than below the Platte, so that although the
+plain is rich and covered with high grass, the want of wood renders it
+less calculated for cultivation than below that river.
+
+The northern hills after remaining near the Missouri for a few miles at
+Floyd's river, recede from it at the Sioux river, the course of which
+they follow; and though they again visit the Missouri at Whitestone
+river, where they are low, yet they do not return to it till beyond
+James river. The highlands on the south, after continuing near the river
+at the Mahar villages, again disappear, and do not approach it till the
+Cobalt bluffs, about forty-four miles from the villages, and then from
+those bluffs to the Yellowstone river, a distance of about one thousand
+miles, they follow the banks of the river with scarcely any deviation.
+
+From the James river, the lower grounds are confined within a narrow
+space by the hills on both sides, which now continue near each other up
+to the mountains. The space between them however varies from one to
+three miles as high as the Muscleshell river, from which the hills
+approach so high as to leave scarcely any low grounds on the river, and
+near the falls reach the waters edge. Beyond the falls the hills are
+scattered and low to the first range of mountains.
+
+The soil during the whole length of the Missouri below the Platte is
+generally speaking very fine, and although the timber is scarce, there
+is still sufficient for the purposes of settlers; But beyond that river,
+although the soil is still rich, yet the almost total absence of timber,
+and particularly the want of good water, of which there is but a small
+quantity in the creeks, and even that brackish, oppose powerful
+obstacles to its settlement. The difficulty becomes still greater
+between the Muscleshell river and the falls, where besides the greater
+scarcity of timber, the country itself is less fertile.
+
+The elevation of these highlands varies as they pass through this
+extensive tract of country. From Wood river they are about one hundred
+and fifty feet above the water, and continue at that height till they
+rise near the Osage, from which place to the ancient fortification they
+again diminish in size. Thence they continue higher till the Mandan
+village, after which they are rather lower till the neighbourhood of
+Muscleshell river, where they are met by the Northern hills, which have
+advanced at a more uniform height, varying from one hundred and fifty to
+two hundred or three hundred feet. From this place to the mountains the
+height of both is nearly the same, from three hundred to five hundred
+feet, and the low grounds so narrow that the traveller seems passing
+through a range of high country. From Maria's river to the falls, the
+hills descend to the height of about two or three hundred feet.
+
+Monday 19. The morning was cold, and the grass perfectly whitened by the
+frost. We were engaged in preparing packs and saddles to load the horses
+as soon as they should arrive. A beaver was caught in a trap, but we
+were disappointed in trying to catch trout in our net; we therefore made
+a seine of willow brush, and by hauling it procured a number of fine
+trout, and a species of mullet which we had not seen before: it is about
+sixteen inches long, the scales small; the nose long, obtusely pointed,
+and exceeding the under jaw; the mouth opens with folds at the sides; it
+has no teeth, and the tongue and palate is smooth. The colour of its
+back and sides is a bluish brown, while the belly is white: it has the
+faggot bones, whence we concluded it to be of the mullet species. It is
+by no means so well flavoured a fish as the trout, which are the same as
+those we first saw at the falls, larger than the speckled trout of the
+mountains in the Atlantic states, and equally well flavoured. In the
+evening the hunters returned with two deer.
+
+Captain Clarke, in the meantime, proceeded through a wide level valley,
+in which the chief pointed out a spot where many of his tribe were
+killed in battle a year ago. The Indians accompanied him during the day,
+and as they had nothing to eat, he was obliged to feed them from his own
+stores, the hunters not being able to kill any thing. Just as he was
+entering the mountains, he met an Indian with two mules and a Spanish
+saddle, who was so polite as to offer one of them to him to ride over
+the hills. Being on foot, captain Clarke accepted his offer and gave him
+a waistcoat as a reward for his civility. He encamped for the night on a
+small stream, and the next morning,
+
+Tuesday, August 20, he set out at six o'clock. In passing through a
+continuation of the hilly broken country, he met several parties of
+Indians. On coming near the camp, which had been removed since we left
+them two miles higher up the river, Cameahwait requested that the party
+should halt. This was complied with: a number of Indians came out from
+the camp, and with great ceremony several pipes were smoked. This being
+over captain Clarke was conducted to a large leathern lodge prepared for
+his party in the middle of the encampment, the Indians having only
+shelters of willow bushes. A few dried berries, and one salmon, the only
+food the whole village could contribute, were then presented to him;
+after which he proceeded to repeat in council, what had been already
+told them, the purposes of his visit; urged them to take their horses
+over and assist in transporting our baggage, and expressed a wish to
+obtain a guide to examine the river. This was explained and enforced to
+the whole village by Cameahwait, and an old man was pointed out who was
+said to know more of their geography to the north than any other person,
+and whom captain Clarke engaged to accompany him. After explaining his
+views he distributed a few presents, the council was ended, and nearly
+half the village set out to hunt the antelope, but returned without
+success.
+
+Captain Clarke in the meantime made particular inquiries as to the
+situation of the country, and the possibility of soon reaching a
+navigable water. The chief began by drawing on the ground a delineation
+of the rivers, from which it appeared that his information was very
+limited. The river on which the camp is he divided into two branches
+just above us, which, as he indicated by the opening of the mountains,
+were in view: he next made it discharge itself into a larger river ten
+miles below, coming from the southwest: the joint stream continued one
+day's march to the northwest, and then inclined to the westward for two
+day's march farther. At that place he placed several heaps of sand on
+each side, which, as he explained them, represented, vast mountains of
+rock always covered with snow, in passing through which the river was so
+completely hemmed in by the high rocks, that there was no possibility of
+travelling along the shore; that the bed of the river was obstructed by
+sharp-pointed rocks, and such its rapidity, that as far as the eye could
+reach it presented a perfect column of foam. The mountains he said were
+equally inaccessible, as neither man nor horse could cross them; that
+such being the state of the country neither he nor any of his nation had
+ever attempted to go beyond the mountains. Cameahwait said also that he
+had been informed by the Chopunnish, or pierced-nose Indians, who reside
+on this river west of the mountains, that it ran a great way towards the
+setting sun, and at length lost itself in a great lake of water which
+was ill-tasted, and where the white men lived. An Indian belonging to a
+band of Shoshonees who live to the southwest, and who happened to be at
+camp, was then brought in, and inquiries made of him as to the
+situation of the country in that direction: this he described in terms
+scarcely less terrible than those in which Cameahwait had represented
+the west. He said that his relations lived at the distance of twenty
+days' march from this place, on a course a little to the west of south
+and not far from the whites, with whom they traded for horses, mules,
+cloth, metal, beads, and the shells here worn as ornaments, and which
+are those of a species of pearl oyster. In order to reach his country we
+should be obliged during the first seven days to climb over steep rocky
+mountains where there was no game, and we should find nothing but roots
+for subsistence. Even for these however we should be obliged to contend
+with a fierce warlike people, whom he called the Broken-moccasin, or
+moccasin with holes, who lived like bears in holes, and fed on roots and
+the flesh of such horses as they could steal or plunder from those who
+passed through the mountains. So rough indeed was the passage, that the
+feet of the horses would be wounded in such a manner that many of them
+would be unable to proceed. The next part of the route was for ten days
+through a dry parched desert of sand, inhabited by no animal which would
+supply us with subsistence, and as the sun had now scorched up the grass
+and dried up the small pools of water which are sometimes scattered
+through this desert in the spring, both ourselves and our horses would
+perish for want of food and water. About the middle of this plain a
+large river passes from southeast to northwest, which, though navigable,
+afforded neither timber nor salmon. Three or four days' march beyond
+this plain his relations lived, in a country tolerably fertile and
+partially covered with timber, on another large river running in the
+same direction as the former; that this last discharges itself into a
+third large river, on which resided many numerous nations, with whom his
+own were at war, but whether this last emptied itself into the great or
+stinking lake, as they called the ocean, he did not know: that from his
+country to the stinking lake was a great distance, and that the route
+to it, taken by such of his relations as had visited it, was up the
+river on which they lived, and over to that on which the white people
+lived, and which they knew discharged itself into the ocean. This route
+he advised us to take, but added, that we had better defer the journey
+till spring, when he would himself conduct us. This account persuaded us
+that the streams of which he spoke were southern branches of the
+Columbia, heading with the Rio des Apostolos, and Rio Colorado, and that
+the route which he mentioned was to the gulf of California: captain
+Clarke therefore told him that this road was too much towards the south
+for our purpose, and then requested to know if there was no route on the
+left of the river where we now are, by which we might intercept it below
+the mountains; but he knew of none except that through the barren
+plains, which he said joined the mountains on that side, and through
+which it was impossible to pass at this season, even if we were
+fortunate enough to escape the Broken-moccasin Indians. Captain Clarke
+recompensed the Indian by a present of a knife, with which he seemed
+much gratified, and now inquired of Cameahwait by what route the
+Pierced-nose Indians, who he said lived west of the mountains, crossed
+over to the Missouri: this he said was towards the north, but that the
+road was a very bad one; that during the passage he had been told they
+suffered excessively from hunger, being obliged to subsist for many days
+on berries alone, there being no game in that part of the mountains,
+which were broken and rocky, and so thickly covered with timber that
+they could scarcely pass. Surrounded by difficulties as all the other
+routes are, this seems to be the most practicable of all the passages by
+land, since, if the Indians can pass the mountains with their women and
+children, no difficulties which they could encounter could be formidable
+to us; and if the Indians below the mountains are so numerous as they
+are represented to be, they must have some means of subsistence equally
+within our power. They tell us indeed that the nations to the westward
+subsist principally on fish and roots, and that their only game were a
+few elk, deer, and antelope, there being no buffaloe west of the
+mountain. The first inquiry however was to ascertain the truth of their
+information relative to the difficulty of descending the river: for this
+purpose captain Clarke set out at three o'clock in the afternoon,
+accompanied by the guide and all his men, except one whom he left with
+orders to purchase a horse and join him as soon as possible. At the
+distance of four miles he crossed the river, and eight miles from the
+camp halted for the night at a small stream. The road which he followed
+was a beaten path through a wide rich meadow, in which were several old
+lodges. On the route he met a number of men, women, and children, as
+well as horses, and one of the men who appeared to possess some
+consideration turned back with him, and observing a woman with three
+salmon obtained them from her, and presented them to the party. Captain
+Clarke shot a mountain cock or cock of the plains, a dark brown bird
+larger than the dunghill fowl, with a long and pointed tail, and a
+fleshy protuberance about the base of the upper chop, something like
+that of the turkey, though without the snout. In the morning,
+
+Wednesday 21, he resumed his march early, and at the distance of five
+miles reached an Indian lodge of brush, inhabited by seven families of
+Shoshonees. They behaved with great civility, gave the whole party as
+much boiled salmon as they could eat, and added as a present several
+dried salmon and a considerable quantity of chokecherries. After smoking
+with them all he visited the fish weir, which was about two hundred
+yards distant; the river was here divided by three small islands, which
+occasioned the water to pass along four channels. Of these three were
+narrow, and stopped by means of trees which were stretched across, and
+supported by willow stakes, sufficiently near each other to prevent the
+passage of the fish. About the centre of each was placed a basket
+formed of willows, eighteen or twenty feet in length, of a cylindrical
+form, and terminating in a conic shape at its lower extremity; this was
+situated with its mouth upwards, opposite to an aperture in the weir.
+The main channel of the water was then conducted to this weir, and as
+the fish entered it they were so entangled with each other that they
+could not move, and were taken out by untying the small end of the
+willow basket. The weir in the main channel was formed in a manner
+somewhat different; there were in fact two distinct weirs formed of
+poles and willow sticks quite across the river, approaching each other
+obliquely with an aperture in each side near the angle. This is made by
+tying a number of poles together at the top, in parcels of three, which
+were then set up in a triangular form at the base, two of the poles
+being in the range desired for the weir, and the third down the stream.
+To these poles two ranges of other poles are next lashed horizontally,
+with willow bark and wythes, and willow sticks joined in with these
+crosswise, so as to form a kind of wicker-work from the bottom of the
+river to the height of three or four feet above the surface of the
+water. This is so thick as to prevent the fish from passing, and even in
+some parts with the help of a little gravel and some stone enables them
+to give any direction which they wish to the water. These two weirs
+being placed near to each other, one for the purpose of catching the
+fish as they ascend, the other as they go down the river, is provided
+with two baskets made in the form already described, and which are
+placed at the apertures of the weir. After examining these curious
+objects, he returned to the lodges, and soon passed the river to the
+left, where an Indian brought him a tomahawk which he said he had found
+in the grass, near the lodge where captain Lewis had staid on his first
+visit to the village. This was a tomahawk which had been missed at the
+time, and supposed to be stolen; it was however the only article which
+had been lost in our intercourse with the nation, and as even that was
+returned the inference is highly honourable to the integrity of the
+Shoshonees. On leaving the lodges captain Clarke crossed to the left
+side of the river, and despatched five men to the forks of it, in search
+of the man left behind yesterday, who procured a horse and passed by
+another road as they learnt, to the forks. At the distance of fourteen
+miles they killed a very large salmon, two and a half feet long, in a
+creek six miles below the forks: and after travelling about twenty miles
+through the valley, following the course of the river, which runs nearly
+northwest, halted in a small meadow on the right side, under a cliff of
+rocks. Here they were joined by the five men who had gone in quest of
+Crusatte. They had been to the forks of the river, where the natives
+resort in great numbers for the purpose of gigging fish, of which they
+made our men a present of five fresh salmon. In addition to this food,
+one deer was killed to-day. The western branch of this river is much
+larger than the eastern, and after we passed the junction we found the
+river about one hundred yards in width, rapid and shoaly, but containing
+only a small quantity of timber. As captain Lewis was the first white
+man who visited its waters, captain Clarke gave it the name of Lewis's
+river. The low grounds through which he had passed to-day were rich and
+wide, but at his camp this evening the hills begin to assume a
+formidable aspect. The cliff under which he lay is of a reddish brown
+colour, the rocks which have fallen from it are a dark brown flintstone.
+Near the place are gullies of white sandstone, and quantities of a fine
+sand, of a snowy whiteness: the mountains on each side are high and
+rugged, with some pine trees scattered over them.
+
+Thursday 22. He soon began to perceive that the Indian accounts had not
+exaggerated: at the distance of a mile he passed a small creek, and the
+points of four mountains, which were rocky, and so high that it seemed
+almost impossible to cross them with horses. The road lay over the sharp
+fragments of rocks which had fallen from the mountains, and were strewed
+in heaps for miles together, yet the horses altogether unshod,
+travelled across them as fast as the men, and without detaining them a
+moment. They passed two bold-running streams, and reached the entrance
+of a small river, where a few Indian families resided. They had not been
+previously acquainted with the arrival of the whites, the guide was
+behind, and the wood so thick that we came upon them unobserved, till at
+a very short distance. As soon as they saw us, the women and children
+fled in great consternation; the men offered us every thing they had,
+the fish on the scaffolds, the dried berries and the collars of elk's
+tushes worn by the children. We took only a small quantity of the food,
+and gave them in return some small articles which conduced very much to
+pacify them. The guide now coming up, explained to them who we were, and
+the object of our visit, which seemed to relieve the fears, but still a
+number of the women and children did not recover from their fright, but
+cryed during our stay, which lasted about an hour. The guide, whom we
+found a very intelligent friendly old man, informed us that up this
+river there was a road which led over the mountains to the Missouri. On
+resuming his route, he went along the steep side of a mountain about
+three miles, and then reached the river near a small island, at the
+lower part of which he encamped; he here attempted to gig some fish, but
+could only obtain one small salmon. The river is here shoal and rapid,
+with many rocks scattered in various directions through its bed. On the
+sides of the mountains are some scattered pines, and of those on the
+left the tops are covered with them; there are however but few in the
+low grounds through which they passed, indeed they have seen only a
+single tree fit to make a canoe, and even that was small. The country
+has an abundant growth of berries, and we met several women and children
+gathering them who bestowed them upon us with great liberality. Among
+the woods captain Clarke observed a species of woodpecker, the beak and
+tail of which were white, the wings black, and every other part of the
+body of a dark brown; its size was that of the robin, and it fed on the
+seeds of the pine.
+
+Friday 23. Captain Clarke set off very early, but as his route lay along
+the steep side of a mountain, over irregular and broken masses of rocks,
+which wounded the horses' feet, he was obliged to proceed slowly. At the
+distance of four miles he reached the river, but the rocks here became
+so steep, and projected so far into the river, that there was no mode of
+passing, except through the water. This he did for some distance, though
+the river was very rapid, and so deep that they were forced to swim
+their horses. After following the edge of the water for about a mile
+under this steep cliff, he reached a small meadow, below which the whole
+current of the river beat against the right shore on which he was, and
+which was formed of a solid rock perfectly inaccessible to horses. Here
+too, the little track which he had been pursuing terminated. He
+therefore resolved to leave the horses and the greater part of the men
+at this place, and examine the river still further, in order to
+determine if there were any possibility of descending it in canoes.
+Having killed nothing except a single goose to-day, and the whole of our
+provision being consumed last evening, it was by no means advisable to
+remain any length of time where they were. He now directed the men to
+fish and hunt at this place till his return, and then with his guide and
+three men he proceeded, clambering over immense rocks, and along the
+side of lofty precipices which bordered the river, when at about twelve
+miles distance he reached a small meadow, the first he had seen on the
+river since he left his party. A little below this meadow, a large creek
+twelve yards wide, and of some depth, discharges itself from the north.
+Here were some recent signs of an Indian encampment, and the tracks of a
+number of horses, who must have come along a plain Indian path, which he
+now saw following the course of the creek. This stream his guide said
+led towards a large river running to the north, and was frequented by
+another nation for the purpose of catching fish. He remained here two
+hours, and having taken some small fish, made a dinner on them with the
+addition of a few berries. From the place where he had left the party,
+to the mouth of this creek, it presents one continued rapid, in which
+are five shoals, neither of which could be passed with loaded canoes;
+and the baggage must therefore be transported for a considerable
+distance over the steep mountains, where it would be impossible to
+employ horses for the relief of the men. Even the empty canoes must be
+let down the rapids by means of cords, and not even in that way without
+great risk both to the canoes as well as to the men. At one of these
+shoals, indeed the rocks rise so perpendicularly from the water as to
+leave no hope of a passage or even a portage without great labour in
+removing rocks, and in some instances cutting away the earth. To
+surmount these difficulties would exhaust the strength of the party, and
+what is equally discouraging would waste our time and consume our
+provisions, of neither of which have we much to spare. The season is now
+far advanced, and the Indians tell us we shall shortly have snow: the
+salmon too have so far declined that the natives themselves are
+hastening from the country, and not an animal of any kind larger than a
+pheasant or a squirrel, and of even these a few only will then be seen
+in this part of the mountains: after which we shall be obliged to rely
+on our own stock of provisions, which will not support us more than ten
+days. These circumstances combine to render a passage by water
+impracticable in our present situation. To descend the course of the
+river on horseback is the other alternative, and scarcely a more
+inviting one. The river is so deep that there are only a few places
+where it can be forded, and the rocks approach so near the water as to
+render it impossible to make a route along the waters' edge. In crossing
+the mountains themselves we should have to encounter, besides their
+steepness, one barren surface of broken masses of rock, down which in
+certain seasons the torrents sweep vast quantities of stone into the
+river. These rocks are of a whitish brown, and towards the base of a
+gray colour, and so hard, that on striking them with steel, they yield a
+fire like flint. This sombre appearance is in some places scarcely
+relieved by a single tree, though near the river and on the creeks there
+is more timber, among which are some tall pine: several of these might
+be made into canoes, and by lashing two of them together, one of
+tolerable size might be formed.
+
+After dinner he continued his route, and at the distance of half a mile
+passed another creek about five yards wide. Here his guide informed him
+that by ascending the creek for some distance he would have a better
+road, and cut off a considerable bend of the river towards the south. He
+therefore pursued a well-beaten Indian track up this creek for about six
+miles, when leaving the creek to the right he passed over a ridge, and
+after walking a mile again met the river, where it flows through a
+meadow of about eighty acres in extent. This they passed and then
+ascended a high and steep point of a mountain, from which the guide now
+pointed out where the river broke through the mountains about twenty
+miles distant. Near the base of the mountains a small river falls in
+from the south: this view was terminated by one of the loftiest
+mountains captain Clarke had ever seen, which was perfectly covered with
+snow. Towards this formidable barrier the river went directly on, and
+there it was, as the guide observed, that the difficulties and dangers
+of which he and Cameahwait had spoken commenced. After reaching the
+mountain, he said, the river continues its course towards the north for
+many miles, between high perpendicular rocks, which were scattered
+through its bed: it then penetrated the mountain through a narrow gap,
+on each side of which arose perpendicularly a rock as high as the top of
+the mountain before them; that the river then made a bend which
+concealed its future course from view, and as it was alike impossible
+to descend the river or clamber over that vast mountain, eternally
+covered with snow, neither he nor any of his nation had ever been lower
+than at a place where they could see the gap made by the river on
+entering the mountain. To that place he said he would conduct captain
+Clarke if he desired it by the next evening. But he was in need of no
+further evidence to convince him of the utter impracticability of the
+route before him. He had already witnessed the difficulties of part of
+the road, yet after all these dangers his guide, whose intelligence and
+fidelity he could not doubt, now assured him that the difficulties were
+only commencing, and what he saw before him too clearly convinced him of
+the Indian's veracity. He therefore determined to abandon this route,
+and returned to the upper part of the last creek we had passed, and
+reaching it an hour after dark encamped for the night: on this creek he
+had seen in the morning an Indian road coming in from the north.
+Disappointed in finding a route by water, captain Clarke now questioned
+his guide more particularly as to the direction of this road which he
+seemed to understand perfectly. He drew a map on the sand, and
+represented this road as well as that we passed yesterday on Berry creek
+as both leading towards two forks of the same great river, where resided
+a nation called Tushepaws, who having no salmon on their river, came by
+these roads to the fish weirs on Lewis's river. He had himself been
+among these Tushepaws, and having once accompanied them on a fishing
+party to another river he had there seen Indians who had come across the
+rocky mountains. After a great deal of conversation, or rather signs,
+and a second and more particular map from his guide, captain Clarke felt
+persuaded that his guide knew of a road from the Shoshonee village they
+had left, to the great river to the north, without coming so low down as
+this on a route impracticable for horses. He was desirous of hastening
+his return, and therefore set out early,
+
+Saturday 24, and after descending the creek to the river, stopped to
+breakfast on berries in the meadow above the second creek. He then went
+on, but unfortunately fell from a rock and injured his leg very much; he
+however walked on as rapidly as he could, and at four in the afternoon
+rejoined his men. During his absence they had killed one of the mountain
+cocks, a few pheasants, and some small fish, on which with haws and
+serviceberries they had subsisted. Captain Clarke immediately sent
+forward a man on horseback with a note to captain Lewis, apprising him
+of the result of his inquiries, and late in the afternoon set out with
+the rest of the party and encamped at the distance of two miles. The men
+were much disheartened at the bad prospect of escaping from the
+mountains, and having nothing to eat but a few berries which have made
+several of them sick, they all passed a disagreeable night, which was
+rendered more uncomfortable by a heavy dew.
+
+Sunday 25. The want of provisions urged captain Clarke to return as soon
+as possible; he therefore set out early, and halted an hour in passing
+the Indian camp near the fish weirs. These people treated them with
+great kindness, and though poor and dirty they willingly give what
+little they possess; they gave the whole party boiled salmon and dried
+berries, which were not however in sufficient quantities to appease
+their hunger. They soon resumed their old road, but as the abstinence or
+strange diet had given one of the men a very severe illness, they were
+detained very much on his account, and it was not till late in the day
+they reached the cliff under which they had encamped on the
+twenty-first. They immediately began to fish and hunt, in order to
+procure a meal. We caught several small fish, and by means of our guide,
+obtained two salmon from a small party of women and children, who, with
+one man, were going below to gather berries. This supplied us with about
+half a meal, but after dark we were regaled with a beaver which one of
+the hunters brought in. The other game seen in the course of the day
+were one deer, and a party of elk among the pines on the sides of the
+mountains.
+
+Monday 26. The morning was fine, and three men were despatched ahead to
+hunt, while the rest were detained until nine o'clock, in order to
+retake some horses which had strayed away during the night. They then
+proceeded along the route by the forks of the river, till they reached
+the lower Indian camp where they first were when we met them. The whole
+camp immediately flocked around him with great appearance of cordiality,
+but all the spare food of the village did not amount to more than two
+salmon, which they gave to captain Clarke, who distributed them among
+his men. The hunters had not been able to kill any thing, nor had
+captain Clarke or the greater part of the men any food during the
+twenty-four hours, till towards evening one of them shot a salmon in the
+river, and a few small fish were caught, which furnished them with a
+scanty meal. The only animals they had seen were a few pigeons, some
+very wild hares, a great number of the large black grasshopper, and a
+quantify of ground lizards.
+
+Tuesday 27. The men, who were engaged last night in mending their
+moccasins, all except one, went out hunting, but no game was to be
+procured. One of the men however killed a small salmon, and the Indians
+made a present of another, on which the whole party made a very slight
+breakfast. These Indians, to whom this life is familiar, seem contented,
+although they depend for subsistence on the scanty productions of the
+fishery. But our men who are used to hardships, but have been accustomed
+to have the first wants of nature regularly supplied, feel very sensibly
+their wretched situation; their strength is wasting away; they begin to
+express their apprehensions of being without food in a country perfectly
+destitute of any means of supporting life, except a few fish. In the
+course of the day an Indian brought into the camp five salmon, two of
+which captain Clarke bought, and made a supper for the party.
+
+Wednesday 28. There was a frost again this morning. The Indians gave
+the party two salmon out of several which they caught in their traps,
+and having purchased two more, the party was enabled to subsist on them
+during the day. A camp of about forty Indians from the west fork passed
+us to-day, on their route to the eastward. Our prospect of provisions is
+getting worse every day: the hunters who had ranged through the country
+in every direction where game might be reasonably expected, have seen
+nothing. The fishery is scarcely more productive, for an Indian who was
+out all day with his gig killed only one salmon. Besides the four fish
+procured from the Indians, captain Clarke obtained some fishroe in
+exchange for three small fish-hooks, the use of which he taught them,
+and which they very readily comprehended. All the men who are not
+engaged in hunting, are occupied in making pack-saddles for the horses
+which captain Lewis informed us he had bought.
+
+August 20. Two hunters were despatched early in the morning, but they
+returned without killing any thing, and the only game we procured was a
+beaver, who was caught last night in a trap which he carried off two
+miles before he was found. The fur of this animal is as good as any we
+have ever seen, nor does it in fact appear to be ever out of season on
+the upper branches of the Missouri. This beaver, with several dozen of
+fine trout, gave us a plentiful subsistence for the day. The party were
+occupied chiefly in making pack-saddles, in the manufacture of which we
+supply the place of nails and boards, by substituting for the first
+thongs of raw hide, which answer very well; and for boards we use the
+handles of our oars, and the plank of some boxes, the contents of which
+we empty into sacks of raw hides made for the purpose. The Indians who
+visit us behave with the greatest decorum, and the women are busily
+engaged in making and mending the moccasins of the party. As we had
+still some superfluous baggage which would be too heavy to carry across
+the mountains, it became necessary to make a cache or deposit. For this
+purpose we selected a spot on the bank of the river, three quarters of a
+mile below the camp, and three men were set to dig it, with a sentinel
+in the neighbourhood, who was ordered if the natives were to straggle
+that way, to fire a signal for the workmen to desist and separate.
+Towards evening the cache was completed without being perceived by the
+Indians, and the packages prepared for deposit.
+
+
+
+
+                               CHAPTER XVI.
+
+     Contest between Drewyer and a Shoshonee--The fidelity and honour of
+     that tribe--The party set out on their journey--The conduct of
+     Cameahwait reproved, and himself reconciled--The easy parturition
+     of the Shoshonee women--History of this nation--Their terror of the
+     Pawkees--Their government and family economy in their treatment of
+     their women--Their complaints of Spanish treachery--Description of
+     their weapons of warfare--Their curious mode of making a
+     shield--The caparison of their horses--The dress of the men and of
+     the women particularly described--Their mode of acquiring new
+     names.
+
+
+Wednesday, August 21. The weather was very cold; the water which stood
+in the vessels exposed to the air being covered with ice a quarter of an
+inch thick: the ink freezes in the pen, and the low grounds are
+perfectly whitened with frost: after this the day proved excessively
+warm. The party were engaged in their usual occupations, and completed
+twenty saddles with the necessary harness, all prepared to set off as
+soon as the Indians should arrive. Our two hunters who were despatched
+early in the morning have not returned, so that we were obliged to
+encroach on our pork and corn, which we consider as the last resource
+when our casual supplies of game fail. After dark we carried our baggage
+to the cache, and deposited what we thought too cumbrous to carry with
+us: a small assortment of medicines, and all the specimens of plants,
+seeds, and minerals, collected since leaving the falls of the Missouri.
+Late at night Drewyer, one of the hunters, returned with a fawn and a
+considerable quantity of Indian plunder, which he had taken by way of
+reprisal. While hunting this morning in the Shoshonee cove, he came
+suddenly upon an Indian camp, at which were an old man, a young one,
+three women, and a boy: they showed no surprise at the sight of him and
+he therefore rode up to them, and after turning his horse loose to
+graze sat down and began to converse with them by signs. They had just
+finished a repast on some roots, and in about twenty minutes one of the
+women spoke to the rest of the party, who immediately went out,
+collected their horses and began to saddle them. Having rested himself,
+Drewyer thought that he would continue his hunt, and rising went to
+catch his horse who was at a short distance, forgetting at the moment to
+take up his rifle. He had scarcely gone more than fifty paces when the
+Indians mounted their horses, the young man snatched up the rifle, and
+leaving all their baggage, whipt their horses, and set off at full speed
+towards the passes of the mountains: Drewyer instantly jumped on his
+horse and pursued them. After running about ten miles the horses of the
+women nearly gave out, and the women finding Drewyer gain on them raised
+dreadful cries, which induced the young man to slacken his pace, and
+being mounted on a very fleet horse rode round them at a short distance.
+Drewyer now came up with the women, and by signs persuaded them that he
+did not mean to hurt them: they then stopped, and as the young man came
+towards them Drewyer asked him for his rifle, but the only part of the
+answer which he understood was Pahkee, the name by which they call their
+enemies, the Minnetarees of fort de Prairie. While they were thus
+engaged in talking, Drewyer watched his opportunity, and seeing the
+Indian off his guard, galloped up to him and seized his rifle: the
+Indian struggled for some time, but finding Drewyer getting too strong
+for him, had the presence of mind to open the pan and let the priming
+fall out; he then let go his hold, and giving his horse the whip escaped
+at full speed, leaving the women to the mercy of the conqueror. Drewyer
+then returned to where he had first seen them, where he found that their
+baggage had been left behind, and brought it to camp with him.
+
+Thursday, 22. This morning early two men were sent to complete the
+covering of the cache, which could not be so perfectly done during the
+night as to elude the search of the Indians. On examining the spoils
+which Drewyer had obtained, they were found to consist of several
+dressed and undressed skins; two bags wove with the bark of the silk
+grass, each containing a bushel of dried serviceberries, and about the
+same quantity of roots; an instrument made of bone for manufacturing the
+flints into heads for arrows; and a number of flints themselves: these
+were much of the same colour and nearly as transparent as common black
+glass, and when cut detached itself into flakes, leaving a very sharp
+edge.
+
+The roots were of three kinds, and folded separate from each in hides of
+buffaloe made into parchment. The first is a fusiform root six inches
+long, and about the size of a man's finger at the largest end, with
+radicles larger than is usual in roots of the fusiform sort: the rind is
+white and thin, the body is also white, mealy, and easily reducible, by
+pounding, to a substance resembling flour, like which it thickens by
+boiling, and is of an agreeable flavour: it is eaten frequently in its
+raw state either green or dried. The second species was much mutilated,
+but appeared to be fibrous; it is of a cylindrical form about the size
+of a small quill, hard and brittle. A part of the rind which had not
+been detached in the preparation was hard and black, but the rest of the
+root was perfectly white; this the Indiana informed us was always boiled
+before eating; and on making the experiment we found that it became
+perfectly soft, but had a bitter taste, which was nauseous to our taste,
+but which the Indians seemed to relish; for on giving the roots to them
+they were very heartily swallowed.
+
+The third species was a small nut about the size of a nutmeg, of an
+irregularly rounded form, something like the smallest of the Jerusalem
+artichokes, which, on boiling, we found them to resemble also in
+flavour, and is certainly the best root we have seen in use among the
+Indians. On inquiring of the Indians from what plant these roots were
+procured, they informed us that none of them grew near this place.
+
+The men were chiefly employed in dressing the skins belonging to the
+party who accompanied captain Clarke. About eleven o'clock Chaboneau and
+his wife returned with Cameahwait, accompanied by about fifty men with
+their women and children. After they had encamped near us and turned
+loose their horses, we called a council of all the chiefs and warriors
+and addressed them in a speech; additional presents were then
+distributed, particularly to the two second chiefs, who had agreeably to
+their promises exerted themselves in our favour. The council was then
+adjourned, and all the Indians were treated with an abundant meal of
+boiled Indian corn and beans. The poor wretches, who had no animal food
+and scarcely any thing but a few fish, had been almost starved, and
+received this new luxury with great thankfulness. Out of compliment to
+the chief we gave him a few dried squashes which we had brought from the
+Mandans, and he declared it was the best food he had ever tasted except
+sugar, a small lump of which he had received from his sister: he now
+declared how happy they should all be to live in a country which
+produced so many good things, and we told him that it would not be long
+before the white men would put it in their power to live below the
+mountains, where they might themselves cultivate all these kinds of food
+instead of wandering in the mountains. He appeared to be much pleased
+with this information, and the whole party being now in excellent temper
+after their repast, we began our purchase of horses. We soon obtained
+five very good ones on very reasonable terms; that is, by giving for
+each merchandise which cost us originally about six dollars. We have
+again to admire the perfect decency and propriety of their conduct; for
+although so numerous, they do not attempt to crowd round our camp or
+take any thing which they see lying about, and whenever they borrow
+knives or kettles or any other article from the men, they return them
+with great fidelity.
+
+Towards evening we formed a drag of bushes, and in about two hours
+caught five hundred and twenty-eight very good fish most of them large
+trout. Among them we observed for the first time ten or twelve trout of
+a white or silvery colour, except on the back and head where they are of
+a bluish cast: in appearance and shape they resemble exactly the
+speckled trout, except that they are not quite so large, though the
+scales are much larger, and the flavour equally good. The greater part
+of the fish was distributed among the Indians.
+
+Friday 28. Our visitors seem to depend wholly on us for food, and as the
+state of our provisions obliges us to be careful of our remaining stock
+of corn and flour, this was an additional reason for urging our
+departure; but Cameahwait requested us to wait till the arrival of
+another party of his nation who were expected to-day. Knowing that it
+would be in vain to oppose his wish, we consented, and two hunters were
+sent out with orders to go further up the southeast fork than they had
+hitherto been. At the same time the chief was informed of the low state
+of our provisions, and advised to send out his young men to hunt. This
+he recommended them to do, and most of them set out: we then sunk our
+canoes by means of stones to the bottom of the river, a situation which
+better than any other secured them against the effects of the high
+waters, and the frequent fires of the plains; the Indians having
+promised not to disturb them during our absence, a promise we believe
+the more readily, as they are almost too lazy to take the trouble of
+raising them for fire-wood. We were desirous of purchasing some more
+horses, but they declined selling any until we reached their camp in the
+mountains. Soon after starting the Indian hunters discovered a mule
+buck, and twelve of their horsemen pursued it, for four miles. We saw
+the chase, which was very entertaining, and at length they rode it down
+and killed it. This mule buck was the largest deer of any kind we have
+seen, being nearly as large as a doe elk. Besides this they brought in
+another deer and three goats; but instead of a general distribution of
+the meat, and such as we have hitherto seen among all tribes of Indians,
+we observed that some families had a large share, while others received
+none. On inquiring of Cameahwait the reason of this custom, he said that
+meat among them was scarce; that each hunter reserved what he killed for
+the use of himself and his own family, none of the rest having any claim
+on what he chose to keep. Our hunters returned soon after with two mule
+deer and three common deer, three of which we distributed among the
+families who had received none of the game of their own hunters. About
+three o'clock the expected party consisting of fifty men, women and
+children arrived. We now learnt that most of the Indians were on their
+way down the valley towards the buffaloe country, and some anxiety to
+accompany them appeared to prevail among those who had promised to
+assist us in crossing the mountains. We ourselves were not without some
+apprehension that they might leave us, but as they continued to say that
+they would return with us nothing was said upon the subject. We were,
+however, resolved to move early in the morning; and therefore despatched
+two men to hunt in the cove and leave the game on the route we should
+pass to-morrow.
+
+Saturday 24. As the Indians who arrived yesterday had a number of spare
+horses, we thought it probable they might be willing to dispose of them,
+and desired the chief to speak to them for that purpose. They declined
+giving any positive answer, but requested to see the goods which we
+proposed to exchange. We then produced some battle-axes which we had
+made at fort Mandan, and a quantity of knives; with both of which they
+appeared very much pleased; and we were soon able to purchase three
+horses by giving for each an axe, a knife, a hankerchief and a little
+paint. To this we were obliged to add a second knife, a shirt, a
+handkerchief and a pair of leggings; and such is the estimation in which
+those animals are held, that even at this price, which was double that
+for a horse, the fellow who sold him took upon himself great merit in
+having given away a mule to us. They now said that they had no more
+horses for sale, and as we had now nine of our own, two hired horses,
+and a mule, we began loading them as heavily as was prudent, and placing
+the rest on the shoulders of the Indian women, left our camp at twelve
+o'clock. We were all on foot, except Sacajawea, for whom her husband had
+purchased a horse with some articles which we gave him for that purpose;
+an Indian however had the politeness to offer captain Lewis one of his
+horses to ride, which he accepted in order better to direct the march of
+the party. We crossed the river below the forks, directing our course
+towards the cove by the route already passed, and had just reached the
+lower part of the cove when an Indian rode up to captain Lewis to inform
+him that one of his men was very sick, and unable to come on. The party
+was immediately halted at a run which falls into the creek on the left,
+and captain Lewis rode back two miles, and found Wiser severely
+afflicted with the colic: by giving him some of the essence of
+peppermint and laudanum, he recovered sufficiently to ride the horse of
+captain Lewis, who then rejoined the party on foot. When he arrived he
+found that the Indians who had been impatiently expecting his return, at
+last unloaded their horses and turned them loose, and had now made their
+camp for the night. It would have been fruitless to remonstrate, and not
+prudent to excite any irritation, and therefore, although the sun was
+still high, and we had made only six miles, we thought it best to remain
+with them: after we had encamped there fell a slight shower of rain. One
+of the men caught several fine trout; but Drewyer had been sent out to
+hunt without having killed any thing. We therefore gave a little corn to
+those of the Indians who were actually engaged in carrying our baggage,
+and who had absolutely nothing to eat. We also advised Cameahwait, as we
+could not supply all his people with provisions, to recommend to all who
+were not assisting us, to go on before us to their camp. This he did:
+but in the morning,
+
+Sunday 25, a few only followed his advice, the rest accompanying us at
+some distance on each side. We set out at sunrise and after going
+seventeen miles halted for dinner within two miles of the narrow pass in
+the mountains. The Indians who were on the sides of our party had
+started some antelopes, but were obliged after a pursuit of several
+hours to abandon the chase: our hunters had in the meantime brought in
+three deer, the greater part of which was distributed among the Indians.
+Whilst at dinner we learnt by means of Sacajawea, that the young men who
+left us this morning, carried a request from the chief, that the village
+would break up its encampment and meet this party to-morrow, when they
+would all go down the Missouri into the buffaloe country. Alarmed at
+this new caprice of the Indians which, if not counteracted, threatened
+to leave ourselves and our baggage on the mountains, or even if we
+reached the waters of the Columbia, prevent our obtaining horses to go
+on further, captain Lewis immediately called the three chiefs together.
+After smoking a pipe he asked them if they were men of their words, and
+if we can rely on their promises. They readily answered in the
+affirmative. He then asked, if they had not agreed to assist us in
+carrying our baggage over the mountains. To this they also answered yes;
+and why then, said he, have you requested your people to meet us
+to-morrow, where it will be impossible for us to trade for horses, as
+you promised we should. If, he continued, you had not promised to help
+us in transporting our goods over the mountains, we should not have
+attempted it, but have returned down the river, after which no white men
+would ever have come into your country. If you wish the whites to be
+your friends, and to bring you arms and protect you from your enemies,
+you should never promise what you do not mean to perform: when I first
+met you, you doubted what I said, yet you afterwards saw that I told
+you the truth. How therefore can you doubt what I now tell you; you see
+that I have divided amongst you the meat which my hunters kill, and I
+promise to give all who assist us a share of whatever we have to eat. If
+therefore you intend to keep your promise, send one of the young men
+immediately to order the people to remain at the village till we arrive.
+
+The two inferior chiefs then said, that they had wished to keep their
+words and to assist us; that they had not sent for the people, but on
+the contrary had disapproved of the measure which was done wholly by the
+first chief. Cameahwait remained silent for some time: at last he said
+that he knew he had done wrong, but that seeing his people all in want
+of provisions, he had wished to hasten their departure for the country
+where their wants might be supplied. He however now declared, that
+having passed his word he would never violate it, and counter orders
+were immediately sent to the village by a young man, to whom we gave a
+handkerchief in order to ensure despatch and fidelity.
+
+This difficulty being now adjusted, our march was resumed with an
+unusual degree of alacrity on the part of the Indians. We passed a spot,
+where six years ago the Shoshonees* suffered a very severe defeat from
+the Minnetarees; and late in the evening we reached the upper part of
+the cove where the creek enters the mountains. The part of the cove on
+the northeast side of the creek has lately been burnt, most probably as
+a signal on some occasion. Here we were joined by our hunters with a
+single deer, which captain Lewis gave, as a proof of his sincerity, to
+the women and children, and remained supperless himself. As we came
+along we observed several large hares, some ducks, and many of the cock
+of the plains: in the low grounds of the cove were also considerable
+quantities of wild onions.
+
+Monday 26. The morning was excessively cold, and the ice in our vessels
+was nearly a quarter of an inch in thickness: we set out at sunrise, and
+soon reached the fountain of the Missouri, where we halted for a few
+minutes, and then crossing the dividing ridge reached the fine spring
+where captain Lewis had slept on the 12th in his first excursion to the
+Shoshonee camp. The grass on the hill sides is perfectly dry and parched
+by the sun, but near the spring was a fine green grass: we therefore
+halted for dinner and turned our horses to graze. To each of the Indians
+who were engaged in carrying our baggage was distributed a pint of corn,
+which they parched, then pounded, and made a sort of soup. One of the
+women who had been leading two of our pack horses halted at a rivulet
+about a mile behind, and sent on the two horses by a female friend: on
+inquiring of Cameahwait the cause of her detention, he answered with
+great appearance of unconcern, that she had just stopped to lie in, but
+would soon overtake us. In fact we were astonished to see her in about
+an hour's time come on with her new born infant and pass us on her way
+to the camp, apparently in perfect health.
+
+This wonderful facility with which the Indian women bring forth their
+children, seems rather some benevolent gift of nature, in exempting them
+from pains which their savage state would render doubly grievous, than
+any result of habit. If as has been imagined, a pure dry air or a cold
+and elevated country are obstacles to easy delivery, every difficulty
+incident to that operation might be expected in this part of the
+continent; nor can another reason, the habit of carrying heavy burthens
+during pregnancy, be at all applicable to the Shoshonee women, who
+rarely carry any burdens, since their nation possesses an abundance of
+horses. We have indeed been several times informed by those conversant
+with Indian manners, and who asserted their knowledge of the fact, that
+Indian women pregnant by white men experience more difficulty in
+child-birth than when the father is an Indian. If this account be true,
+it may contribute to strengthen the belief, that the easy delivery of
+the Indian women is wholly constitutional.
+
+The tops of the high irregular mountains to the westward are still
+entirely covered with snow; and the coolness which the air acquires in
+passing them, is a very agreeable relief from the heat, which has dried
+up the herbage on the sides of the hills. While we stopped, the women
+were busily employed in collecting the root of a plant with which they
+feed their children, who like their mothers are nearly half starved and
+in a wretched condition. It is a species of fennel which grows in the
+moist grounds; the radix is of the knob kind, of a long ovate form,
+terminating in a single radicle, the whole being three or four inches
+long, and the thickest part about the size of a man's little finger:
+when fresh, it is white, firm, and crisp; and when dried and pounded
+makes a fine white meal. Its flavour is not unlike that of aniseed,
+though less pungent. From one to four of these knobbed roots are
+attached to a single stem which rises to the height of three or four
+feet, and is jointed, smooth, cylindric, and has several small
+peduncles, one at each joint above the sheathing leaf. Its colour is a
+deep green, as is also that of the leaf, which is sheathing, sessile,
+and _polipartite_, the divisions being long and narrow. The flowers,
+which are now in bloom, are small and numerous, with white and
+umbellifferous petals: there are no root leaves. As soon as the seeds
+have matured, the roots of the present year as well as the stem decline,
+and are renewed in the succeeding spring from the little knot which
+unites the roots. The sunflower is also abundant here, and the seeds,
+which are now ripe, are gathered in considerable quantities, and after
+being pounded and rubbed between smooth stones, form a kind of meal,
+which is a favourite dish among the Indians.
+
+After dinner we continued our route and were soon met by a party of
+young men on horseback, who turned with us and went to the village. As
+soon as we were within sight of it, Cameahwait requested that we would
+discharge our guns; the men were therefore drawn up in a single rank,
+and gave a running fire of two rounds, to the great satisfaction of the
+Indians. We then proceeded to the encampment where we arrived about six
+o'clock, and were conducted to the leathern lodge in the centre of
+thirty-two others made of brush. The baggage was arranged near this
+tent, which captain Lewis occupied, and surrounded by those of the men
+so as to secure it from pillage. This camp was in a beautiful smooth
+meadow near the river, and about three miles above their camp when we
+first visited the Indians. We here found Colter, who had been sent by
+captain Clarke with a note apprising us that there were no hopes of a
+passage by water, and that the most practicable route seemed to be that
+mentioned by his guide, towards the north. Whatever road we meant to
+take, it was now necessary to provide ourselves with horses; we
+therefore informed Cameahwait of our intention of going to the great
+river beyond the mountains, and that we would wish to purchase twenty
+more horses: he said the Minnetarees had stolen a great number of their
+horses this spring, but he still hoped they could spare us that number.
+In order not to loose the present favourable moment, and to keep the
+Indians as cheerful as possible, the violins were brought out and our
+men danced to the great diversion of the Indians. This mirth was the
+more welcome because our situation was not precisely that which would
+most dispose us for gayety, for we have only a little parched corn to
+eat, and our means of subsistence or of success, depend on the wavering
+temper of the natives, who may change their minds to-morrow.
+
+The Shoshonees are a small tribe of the nation called Snake Indians, a
+vague denomination, which embraces at once the inhabitants of the
+southern parts of the Rocky mountains and of the plains on each side.
+The Shoshonees with whom we now are, amount to about one hundred
+warriors, and three times that number of women and children. Within
+their own recollection they formerly lived in the plains, but they have
+been driven into the mountains by the Pawkees, or the roving Indians of
+the Sascatchawain, and are now obliged to visit occasionally, and by
+stealth, the country of their ancestors. Their lives are indeed
+migratory. From the middle of May to the beginning of September, they
+reside on the waters of the Columbia, where they consider themselves
+perfectly secure from the Pawkees who have never yet found their way to
+that retreat. During this time they subsist chiefly on salmon, and as
+that fish disappears on the approach of autumn, they are obliged to seek
+subsistence elsewhere. They then cross the ridge to the waters of the
+Missouri, down which they proceed slowly and cautiously, till they are
+joined near the three forks by other bands, either of their own nation
+or of the Flatheads, with whom they associate against the common enemy.
+Being now strong in numbers, they venture to hunt buffaloe in the plains
+eastward of the mountains, near which they spend the winter, till the
+return of the salmon invites them to the Columbia. But such is their
+terror of the Pawkees, that as long as they can obtain the scantiest
+subsistence, they do not leave the interior of the mountains; and as
+soon as they collect a large stock of dried meat, they again retreat,
+and thus alternately obtaining their food at the hazard of their lives,
+and hiding themselves to consume it. In this loose and wandering
+existence they suffer the extremes of want; for two thirds of the year
+they are forced to live in the mountains, passing whole weeks without
+meat, and with nothing to eat but a few fish and roots. Nor can any
+thing be imagined more wretched than their condition at the present
+time, when the salmon is fast retiring, when roots are becoming scarce,
+and they have not yet acquired strength to hazard an encounter with
+their enemies. So insensible are they however to these calamities, that
+the Shoshonees are not only cheerful but even gay; and their character,
+which is more interesting than that of any Indians we have seen, has in
+it much of the dignity of misfortune. In their intercourse with
+strangers they are frank and communicative, in their dealings perfectly
+fair, nor have we had during our stay with them, any reason to suspect
+that the display of all our new and valuable wealth, has tempted them
+into a single act of dishonesty. While they have generally shared with
+us the little they possess, they have always abstained from begging any
+thing from us. With their liveliness of temper, they are fond of gaudy
+dresses, and of all sorts of amusements, particularly to games of
+hazard; and like most Indians fond of boasting of their own warlike
+exploits, whether real or fictitious. In their conduct towards
+ourselves, they were kind and obliging, and though on one occasion they
+seemed willing to neglect us, yet we scarcely knew how to blame the
+treatment by which we suffered, when we recollected how few civilized
+chiefs would have hazarded the comforts or the subsistence of their
+people for the sake of a few strangers. This manliness of character may
+cause or it may be formed by the nature of their government, which is
+perfectly free from any restraint. Each individual is his own master,
+and the only control to which his conduct is subjected, is the advice of
+a chief supported by his influence over the opinions of the rest of the
+tribe. The chief himself is in fact no more than the most confidential
+person among the warriors, a rank neither distinguished by any external
+honor, nor invested by any ceremony, but gradually acquired from the
+good wishes of his companions and by superior merit. Such an officer has
+therefore strictly no power; he may recommend or advise or influence,
+but his commands have no effect on those who incline to disobey, and who
+may at any time withdraw from their voluntary allegiance. His shadowy
+authority which cannot survive the confidence which supports it, often
+decays with the personal vigour of the chief, or is transferred to some
+more fortunate or favourite hero.
+
+In their domestic economy, the man is equally sovereign. The man is the
+sole proprietor of his wives and daughters, and can barter them away, or
+dispose of them in any manner he may think proper. The children are
+seldom corrected; the boys, particularly, soon become their own
+masters; they are never whipped, for they say that it breaks their
+spirit, and that after being flogged they never recover their
+independence of mind, even when they grow to manhood. A plurality of
+wives is very common; but these are not generally sisters, as among the
+Minnetarees and Mandans, but are purchased of different fathers. The
+infant daughters are often betrothed by the father to men who are grown,
+either for themselves or for their sons, for whom they are desirous of
+providing wives. The compensation to the father is usually made in
+horses or mules; and the girl remains with her parents till the age of
+puberty, which is thirteen or fourteen, when she is surrendered to her
+husband. At the same time the father often makes a present to the
+husband equal to what he had formerly received as the price of his
+daughter, though this return is optional with her parent. Sacajawea had
+been contracted in this way before she was taken prisoner, and when we
+brought her back, her betrothed was still living. Although he was double
+the age of Sacajawea, and had two other wives, he claimed her, but on
+finding that she had a child by her new husband, Chaboneau, he
+relinquished his pretensions and said he did not want her.
+
+The chastity of the women does not appear to be held in much estimation.
+The husband will for a trifling present lend his wife for a night to a
+stranger, and the loan may be protracted by increasing the value of the
+present. Yet strange as it may seem, notwithstanding this facility, any
+connexion of this kind not authorized by the husband, is considered
+highly offensive and quite as disgraceful to his character as the same
+licentiousness in civilized societies. The Shoshonees are not so
+importunate in volunteering the services of their wives as we found the
+Sioux were; and indeed we observed among them some women who appeared to
+be held in more respect than those of any nation we had seen. But the
+mass of the females are condemned, as among all savage nations, to the
+lowest and most laborious drudgery. When the tribe is stationary, they
+collect the roots, and cook; they build the huts, dress the skins and
+make clothing; collect the wood, and assist in taking care of the horses
+on the route; they load the horses and have the charge of all the
+baggage. The only business of the man is to fight; he therefore takes on
+himself the care of his horse, the companion of his warfare; but he will
+descend to no other labour than to hunt and to fish. He would consider
+himself degraded by being compelled to walk any distance; and were he so
+poor as to possess only two horses, he would ride the best of them, and
+leave the other for his wives and children and their baggage; and if he
+has too many wives or too much baggage for the horse, the wives have no
+alternative but to follow him on foot; they are not however often
+reduced to those extremities, for their stock of horses is very ample.
+Notwithstanding their losses this spring they still have at least seven
+hundred, among which are about forty colts, and half that number of
+mules. There are no horses here which can be considered as wild; we have
+seen two only on this side of the Muscleshell river which were without
+owners, and even those although shy, showed every mark of having been
+once in the possession of man. The original stock was procured from the
+Spaniards, but they now raise their own. The horses are generally very
+fine, of a good size, vigorous and patient of fatigue as well as hunger.
+Each warrior has one or two tied to a stake near his hut both day and
+night, so as to be always prepared for action. The mules are obtained in
+the course of trade from the Spaniards, with whose brands several of
+them are marked, or stolen from them by the frontier Indians. They are
+the finest animals of that kind we have ever seen, and at this distance
+from the Spanish colonies are very highly valued. The worst are
+considered as worth the price of two horses, and a good mule cannot be
+obtained for less than three and sometimes four horses.
+
+We also saw a bridle bit, stirrups and several other articles which,
+like the mules, came from the Spanish colonies. The Shoshonees say that
+they can reach those settlements in ten days' march by the route of the
+Yellowstone river; but we readily perceive that the Spaniards are by no
+means favourites. They complain that the Spaniards refuse to let them
+have fire arms under pretence that these dangerous weapons will only
+induce them to kill each other. In the meantime, say the Shoshonees, we
+are left to the mercy of the Minnetarees, who having arms, plunder them
+of their horses, and put them to death without mercy. "But this should
+not be," said Cameahwait fiercely, "if we had guns, instead of hiding
+ourselves in the mountains and living like the bears on roots and
+berries, we would then go down and live in the buffaloe country in spite
+of our enemies, whom we never fear when we meet on equal terms."
+
+As war is the chief occupation, bravery is the first virtue among the
+Shoshonees. None can hope to be distinguished without having given
+proofs of it, nor can there be any preferment, or influence among the
+nation, without some warlike achievement. Those important events which
+give reputation to a warrior, and which entitle him to a new name, are
+killing a white bear, stealing individually the horses of the enemy,
+leading out a party who happen to be successful either in plundering
+horses or destroying the enemy, and lastly scalping a warrior. These
+acts seem of nearly equal dignity, but the last, that of taking an
+enemy's scalp, is an honour quite independent of the act of vanquishing
+him. To kill your adversary is of no importance unless the scalp is
+brought from the field of battle, and were a warrior to slay any number
+of his enemies in action, and others were to obtain the scalps or first
+touch the dead, they would have all the honours, since they have borne
+off the trophy.
+
+Although thus oppressed by the Minnetarees, the Shoshonees are still a
+very military people. Their cold and rugged country inures them to
+fatigue; their long abstinence makes them support the dangers of
+mountain warfare, and worn down as we saw them, by want of sustenance,
+have a look of fierce and adventurous courage. The Shoshonee warrior
+always fights on horseback; he possesses a few bad guns, which are
+reserved exclusively for war, but his common arms are the bow and arrow,
+a shield, a lance and a weapon called by the Chippeways, by whom it was
+formerly used, the poggamoggon. The bow is made of cedar or pine covered
+on the outer side with sinews and glue. It is about two and a half feet
+long, and does not differ in shape from those used by the Sioux, Mandans
+and Minnetarees. Sometimes, however, the bow is made of a single piece
+of the horn of an elk, covered on the back like those of wood with
+sinews and glue, and occasionally ornamented by a strand wrought of
+porcupine quills and sinews, which is wrapped round the horn near its
+two ends. The bows made of the horns of the bighorn, are still more
+prized, and are formed by cementing with glue flat pieces of the horn
+together, covering the back with sinews and glue, and loading the whole
+with an unusual quantity of ornaments. The arrows resemble those of the
+other Indians except in being more slender than any we have seen. They
+are contained, with the implements for striking fire, in a narrow quiver
+formed of different kinds of skin, though that of the otter seems to be
+preferred. It is just long enough to protect the arrows from the
+weather, and is worn on the back by means of a strap passing over the
+right shoulder and under the left arm. The shield is a circular piece of
+buffaloe hide about two feet four or five inches in diameter, ornamented
+with feathers, and a fringe round it of dressed leather, and adorned or
+deformed with paintings of strange figures. The buffaloe hide is
+perfectly proof against any arrow, but in the minds of the Shoshonees,
+its power to protect them is chiefly derived from the virtues which are
+communicated to it by the old men and jugglers. To make a shield is
+indeed one of their most important ceremonies: it begins by a feast to
+which all the warriors, old men and jugglers are invited. After the
+repast a hole is dug in the ground about eighteen inches in depth and of
+the same diameter as the intended shield: into this hole red hot stones
+are thrown and water poured over them, till they emit a very strong* hot
+steam. The buffaloe skin, which must be the entire hide of a male two
+years old, and never suffered to dry since it was taken from the animal,
+is now laid across the hole, with the fleshy side to the ground, and
+stretched in every direction by as many as can take hold of it. As the
+skin becomes heated, the hair separates and is taken off by the hand;
+till at last the skin is contracted into the compass designed for
+the shield. It is then taken off and placed on a hide prepared into
+parchment, and then pounded during the rest of the festival by the bare
+heels of those who are invited to it. This operation sometimes continues
+for several days, after which it is delivered to the proprietor, and
+declared by the old men and jugglers to be a security against arrows;
+and provided the feast has been satisfactory, against even the bullets
+of their enemies. Such is the delusion, that many of the Indians
+implicitly believe that this ceremony has given to the shield
+supernatural powers, and that they have no longer to fear any weapons of
+their enemies.
+
+The paggamoggon is an instrument, consisting of a handle twenty-two
+inches long, made of wood, covered with dressed leather about the size
+of a whip-handle: at one end is a thong of two inches in length, which
+is tied to a round stone weighing two pounds and held in a cover of
+leather: at the other end is a loop of the same material, which is
+passed round the wrist so as to secure the hold of the instrument, with
+which they strike a very severe blow.
+
+Besides these, they have a kind of armour something like a coat of mail,
+which is formed by a great many folds of dressed antelope skins, united
+by means of a mixture of glue and sand. With this they cover their own
+bodies and those of their horses, and find it impervious to the arrow.
+
+The caparison of their horses is a halter and a saddle: the first
+is either a rope of six or seven strands of buffaloe hair platted
+or twisted together, about the size of a man's finger and of great
+strength; or merely a thong of raw hide, made pliant by pounding and
+rubbing; though the first kind is much preferred. The halter is very
+long, and is never taken from the neck of the horse when in constant
+use. One end of it is first tied round the neck in a knot and then
+brought down to the under jaw, round which it is formed into a simple
+noose, passing through the mouth: it is then drawn up on the right side
+and held by the rider in his left hand, while the rest trails after him
+to some distance. At other times the knot is formed at a little distance
+from one of the ends, so as to let that end serve as a bridle, while the
+other trails on the ground. With these cords dangling along side of them
+the horse is put to his full speed without fear of falling, and when he
+is turned to graze the noose is merely taken from his mouth. The saddle
+in formed like the pack-saddles used by the French and Spaniards, of two
+flat thin boards which fit the sides of the horse, and are kept together
+by two cross pieces, one before and the other behind, which rise to
+a considerable height, ending sometimes in a flat point extending
+outwards, and always making the saddle deep and narrow. Under this a
+piece of buffaloe skin, with the hair on, is placed so as to prevent the
+rubbing of the boards, and when they mount they throw a piece of skin
+or robe over the saddle, which has no permanent cover. When stirrups
+are used, they consist of wood covered with leather; but stirrups and
+saddles are conveniences reserved for old men and women. The young
+warriors rarely use any thing except a small leather pad stuffed with
+hair, and secured by a girth made of a leathern thong. In this way
+they ride with great expertness, and they have a particular dexterity
+in catching the horse when he is running at large. If he will not
+immediately submit when they wish to take him, they make a noose in
+the rope, and although the horse may be at a distance, or even running,
+rarely fail to fix it on his neck; and such is the docility of the
+animal, that however unruly he may seem, he surrenders as soon as he
+feels the rope on him. This cord is so useful in this way that it is
+never dispensed with, even when they use the Spanish bridle, which they
+prefer, and always procure when they have it in their power. The horse
+becomes almost an object of attachment: a favourite is frequently
+painted and his ears cut into various shapes: the mane and tail, which
+are never drawn nor trimmed, are decorated with feathers of birds, and
+sometimes a warrior suspends at the breast of his horse the finest
+ornaments he possesses.
+
+Thus armed and mounted the Shoshonee is a formidable enemy, even with
+the feeble weapons which he is still obliged to use. When they attack at
+full speed they bend forward and cover their bodies with the shield,
+while with the right hand they shoot under the horses neck.
+
+The only articles of metal which the Shoshonees possess are a few bad
+knives, some brass kettles, some bracelets or armbands of iron and
+brass, a few buttons worn as ornaments in their hair, one or two spears
+about a foot in length, and some heads for arrows made of iron and
+brass. All these they had obtained in trading with the Crow or Rocky
+mountain Indians, who live on the Yellowstone. The few bridle-bits and
+stirrups they procured from the Spanish colonies.
+
+The instrument which supplies the place of a knife among them, is a
+piece of flint with no regular form, and the sharp part of it not more
+than one or two inches long: the edge of this is renewed, and the flint
+itself is formed into heads for arrows, by means of the point of a deer
+or elk horn, an instrument which they use with great art and ingenuity.
+There are no axes or hatchets; all the wood being cut with flint or
+elk-horn, the latter of which is always used as a wedge in splitting
+wood. Their utensils consist, besides the brass kettles, of pots in the
+form of a jar, made either of earth, or of a stone found in the hills
+between Madison and Jefferson rivers, which, though soft and white in
+its natural state, becomes very hard and black after exposure to the
+fire. The horns of the buffaloe and the bighorn supply them with spoons.
+
+The fire is always kindled by means of a blunt arrow, and a piece of
+well-seasoned wood of a soft spongy kind, such as the willow or
+cottonwood.
+
+The Shoshonees are of a diminutive stature, with thick flat feet and
+ankles, crooked legs, and are, generally speaking, worse formed than any
+nation of Indians we have seen. Their complexion resembles that of the
+Sioux, and is darker than that of the Minnetarees, Mandans, or Shawnees.
+The hair in both sexes is suffered to fall loosely over the face and
+down the shoulders: some men, however, divide it by means of thongs of
+dressed leather or otter skin into two equal queues, which hang over the
+ears and are drawn in front of the body; but at the present moment, when
+the nation is afflicted by the loss of so many relations killed in war,
+most of them have the hair cut quite short in the neck, and Cameahwait
+has the hair cut short all over his head, this being the customary
+mourning for a deceased kindred.
+
+The dress of the men consists of a robe, a tippet, a shirt, long
+leggings and moccasins. The robe is formed most commonly of the skins of
+antelope, bighorn, or deer, though when it can be procured, the buffaloe
+hide is preferred. Sometimes too they are made of beaver, moonax, and
+small wolves, and frequently during the summer of elk skin. These are
+dressed with the hair on, and reach about as low as the middle of the
+leg. They are worn loosely over the shoulders, the sides being at
+pleasure either left open or drawn together by the hand, and in cold
+weather kept close by a girdle round the waist. This robe answers the
+purpose of a cloak during the day, and at night is their only covering.
+
+The tippet is the most elegant article of Indian dress we have ever
+seen. The neck or collar of it is a strip about four or five inches
+wide, cut from the back of the otter skin, the nose and eyes forming one
+extremity, and the tail another. This being dressed with the fur on,
+they attach to one edge of it, from one hundred to two hundred and fifty
+little rolls of ermine skin, beginning at the ear, and proceeding
+towards the tail. These ermine skins are the same kind of narrow strips
+from the back of that animal, which are sewed round a small cord of
+twisted silkgrass thick enough to make the skin taper towards the tail
+which hangs from the end, and are generally about the size of a large
+quill. These are tied at the head into little bundles, of two, three or
+more according to the caprice of the wearer, and then suspended from the
+collar, and a broad fringe of ermine skin is fixed so as to cover the
+parts where they unite, which might have a coarse appearance. Little
+tassels of fringe of the same materials are also fastened to the
+extremities of the tail, so as to show its black colour to greater
+advantage. The centre of the collar is further ornamented with the
+shells of the pearl oyster. Thus adorned, the collar is worn close round
+the neck, and the little rolls fall down over the shoulders nearly to
+the waist, so as to form a sort of short cloak, which has a very
+handsome appearance. These tippets are very highly esteemed, and are
+given or disposed of on important occasions only. The ermine is the fur
+known to the northwest traders by the name of the white weasel, but is
+the genuine ermine; and by encouraging the Indians to take them, might
+no doubt be rendered a valuable branch of trade. These animals must be
+very abundant, for the tippets are in great numbers, and the
+construction of each requires at least one hundred skins.
+
+The shirt is a covering of dressed skin without the hair, and formed of
+the hide of the antelope, deer, bighorn, or elk, though the last is
+more rarely used than any other for this purpose. It fits the body
+loosely, and reaches half way down the thigh. The aperture at the top is
+wide enough to admit the head, and has no collar, but is either left
+square, or most frequently terminates in the tail of the animal, which
+is left entire, so as to fold outwards, though sometimes the edges are
+cut into a fringe, and ornamented with quills of the porcupine. The
+seams of the shirt are on the sides, and are richly fringed and adorned
+with porcupine quills, till within five or six inches of the sleeve,
+where it is left open, as is also the under side of the sleeve from the
+shoulder to the elbow, where it fits closely round the arm as low as the
+wrist, and has no fringe like the sides, and the under part of the
+sleeve above the elbow. It is kept up by wide shoulder straps, on which
+the manufacturer displays his taste by the variety of figures wrought
+with porcupine quills of different colours, and sometimes by beads when
+they can be obtained. The lower end of the shirt retains the natural
+shape of the fore legs and neck of the skin, with the addition of a
+slight fringe; the hair too is left on the tail and near the hoofs, part
+of which last is retained and split into a fringe.
+
+The leggings are generally made of antelope skins, dressed without the
+hair, and with the legs, tail and neck hanging to them. Each legging is
+formed of a skin nearly entire, and reaches from the ancle to the upper
+part of the thigh, and the legs of the skin are tucked before and behind
+under a girdle round the waist. It fits closely to the leg, the tail
+being worn upwards, and the neck highly ornamented with fringe and
+porcupine quills, drags on the ground behind the heels. As the legs of
+the animal are tied round the girdle, the wide part of the skin is drawn
+so high as to conceal the parts usually kept from view, in which respect
+their dress is much more decent than that of any nation of Indians on
+the Missouri. The seams of the leggings down the sides, are also fringed
+and ornamented, and occasionally decorated with tufts of hair taken
+from enemies whom they have slain. In making all these dresses, their
+only thread is the sinew taken from the backs and loins of deer, elk,
+buffaloe, or any other animal.
+
+The moccasin is of the deer, elk, or buffaloe skin, dressed without the
+hair, though in winter they use the buffaloe skin with the hairy side
+inward, as do most of the Indians who inhabit the buffaloe country. Like
+the Mandan moccasin, it is made with a single seam on the outer edge,
+and sewed up behind, a hole being left at the instep to admit the foot.
+It is variously ornamented with figures wrought with porcupine quills,
+and sometimes the young men most fond of dress, cover it with the skin
+of a polecat, and trail at their heels the tail of the animal.
+
+The dress of the women consists of the same articles as that of their
+husbands. The robe though smaller is worn in the same way: the moccasins
+are precisely similar. The shirt or chemise reaches half way down the
+leg, is in the same form, except that there is no shoulder-strap, the
+seam coming quite up to the shoulder; though for women who give suck
+both sides are open, almost down to the waist. It is also ornamented in
+the same way with the addition of little patches of red cloth, edged
+round with beads at the skirts. The chief ornament is over the breast,
+where there are curious figures made with the usual luxury of porcupine
+quills. Like the men they have a girdle round the waist, and when either
+sex wishes to disengage the arm, it is drawn up through the hole near
+the shoulder, and the lower part of the sleeve thrown behind the body.
+
+Children alone wear beads round their necks; grown persons of both sexes
+prefer them suspended in little bunches from the ear, and sometimes
+intermixed with triangular pieces of the shell of the pearl oyster.
+Sometimes the men tie them in the same way to the hair of the forepart
+of the head, and increase the beauty of it by adding the wings and tails
+of birds, and particularly the feathers of the great eagle or calumet
+bird, of which they are extremely fond. The collars are formed either of
+sea shells procured from their relations to the southwest, or of the
+sweet-scented grass which grows in the neighbourhood, and which they
+twist or plait together, to the thickness of a man's finger, and then
+cover with porcupine quills of various colours. The first of these is
+worn indiscriminately by both sexes, the second principally confined to
+the men, while a string of elk's tusks is a collar almost peculiar to
+the women and children. Another collar worn by the men is a string of
+round bones like the joints of a fish's back, but the collar most
+preferred, because most honourable, is one of the claws of the brown
+bear. To kill one of these animals is as distinguished an achievement as
+to have put to death an enemy, and in fact with their weapons is a more
+dangerous trial of courage. These claws are suspended on a thong of
+dressed leather, and being ornamented with beads, are worn round the
+neck by the warriors with great pride. The men also frequently wear the
+skin of a fox, or a strip of otter skin round the head in the form of a
+bandeau.
+
+In short, the dress of the Shoshonees is as convenient and decent as
+that of any Indians we have seen.
+
+They have many more children than might have been expected, considering
+their precarious means of support and their wandering life. This
+inconvenience is however balanced by the wonderful facility with which
+their females undergo the operations of child-birth. In the most
+advanced state of pregnancy they continue their usual occupations, which
+are scarcely interrupted longer than the mere time of bringing the child
+into the world.
+
+The old men are few in number and do not appear to be treated with much
+tenderness or respect.
+
+The tobacco used by the Shoshonees is not cultivated among them, but
+obtained from the Indians of the Rocky mountains, and from some of the
+bands of their own nation who live south of them; it is the same plant
+which is in use among the Minnetarees, Mandans, and Ricaras.
+
+Their chief intercourse with other nations seems to consist in their
+association with other Snake Indians, and with the Flatheads when they
+go eastward to hunt buffaloe, and in the occasional visits made by the
+Flatheads to the waters of the Columbia for the purpose of fishing.
+Their intercourse with the Spaniards is much more rare, and it furnishes
+them with a few articles, such as mules, and some bridles, and other
+ornaments for horses, which, as well as some of their kitchen utensils,
+are also furnished by the bands of Snake Indians from the Yellowstone.
+The pearl ornaments which they esteem so highly come from other bands,
+whom they represent as their friends and relations, living to the
+southwest beyond the barren plains on the other side of the mountains:
+these relations they say inhabit a good country, abounding with elk,
+deer, bear, and antelope, where horses and mules are much more abundant
+than they are here, or to use their own expression, as numerous as the
+grass of the plains.
+
+The names of the Indians varies in the course of their life: originally
+given in childhood, from the mere necessity of distinguishing objects,
+or from some accidental resemblance to external objects, the young
+warrior is impatient to change it by some achievement of his own. Any
+important event, the stealing of horses, the scalping an enemy, or
+killing a brown bear, entitles him at once to a new name which he then
+selects for himself, and it is confirmed by the nation. Sometimes the
+two names subsist together: thus, the chief Cameahwait, which means,
+"one who never walks," has the war name of Tooettecone, or "black gun,"
+which he acquired when he first signalized himself. As each new action
+gives a warrior a right to change his name, many of them have had
+several in the course of their lives. To give to a friend his own name
+is an act of high courtesy, and a pledge like that of pulling off the
+moccasin of sincerity and hospitality. The chief in this way gave his
+name to captain Clarke when he first arrived, and he was afterwards
+known among the Shoshonees by the name of Cameahwait.
+
+The diseases incident to this state of life may be supposed to be few,
+and chiefly the result of accidents. We were particularly anxious to
+ascertain whether they had any knowledge of the venereal disorder. After
+inquiring by means of the interpreter and his wife, we learnt that they
+sometimes suffered from it, and that they most usually die with it; nor
+could we discover what was their remedy. It is possible that this
+disease may have reached them in their circuitous communications with
+the whites through the intermediate Indians; but the situation of the
+Shoshonees is so insulated, that it is not probable that it could have
+reached them in that way, and the existence of such a disorder among the
+Rocky mountains seems rather a proof of its being aboriginal.
+
+
+
+
+                               CHAPTER XVII.
+
+     The party, after procuring horses from the Shoshonees, proceed on
+     their journey through the mountains--The difficulties and dangers
+     of the route--A council held with another band of the Shoshonees,
+     of whom some account is given--They are reduced to the necessity of
+     killing their horses for food--Captain Clarke with a small party
+     precedes the main body in quest of food, and is hospitably received
+     by the Pierced-nose Indians--Arrival of the main body amongst this
+     tribe, with whom a council is held--They resolve to perform the
+     remainder of their journey in canoes--Sickness of the party--They
+     descend the Kooskooskee to its junction with Lewis river, after
+     passing several dangerous rapids--Short description of the manners
+     and dress of the Pierced-nose Indians.
+
+
+August 27. We were now occupied in determining our route and procuring
+horses from the Indians. The old guide who had been sent on by captain
+Clarke, now confirmed, by means of our interpreter, what he had already
+asserted, of a road up Berry creek which would lead to Indian
+establishments on another branch of the Columbia: his reports however
+were contradicted by all the Shoshonees. This representation we ascribed
+to a wish on their part to keep us with them during the winter, as well
+for the protection we might afford against their enemies, as for the
+purpose of consuming our merchandise amongst them; and as the old man
+promised to conduct us himself, that route seemed to be the most
+eligible. We were able to procure some horses, though not enough for all
+our purposes. This traffic, and our inquiries and councils with the
+Indians, consumed the remainder of the day.
+
+August 28. The purchase of horses was resumed, and our stock raised to
+twenty-two. Having now crossed more than once the country which
+separates the head waters of the Missouri from those of the Columbia, we
+can designate the easiest and most expeditious route for a portage; it
+is as follows:
+
+From the forks of the river north 60 degrees west, five miles to the
+point of a hill on the right: then south 80 degrees west, ten miles to a
+spot where the creek is ten miles wide, and the highlands approach
+within two hundred yards; southwest five miles to a narrow part of the
+bottom; then turning south 70 degrees west, two miles to a creek on the
+right: thence south 80 degrees west, three miles to a rocky point
+opposite to a thicket of pines on the left; from that place west, three
+miles to the gap where is the fountain of the Missouri: on leaving this
+fountain south 80 degrees west, six miles across the dividing ridge, to
+a run from the right passing several small streams north 80 degrees
+west, four miles over hilly ground to the east fork of Lewis's river,
+which is here forty yards wide.
+
+Thursday 29. Captain Clarke joined us this morning, and we continued our
+bargains for horses. The late misfortunes of the Shoshonees make the
+price higher than common, so that one horse cost a pistol, one hundred
+balls, some powder and a knife; another was changed for a musket, and in
+this way we obtained twenty-nine. The horses themselves are young and
+vigorous, but they are very poor, and most of them have sore backs in
+consequence of the roughness of the Shoshonee saddle. We are therefore
+afraid of loading them too heavily and are anxious to obtain one at
+least for each man to carry the baggage, or the man himself, or in the
+last resource to serve as food; but with all our exertions we could not
+provide all our men with horses. We have, however, been fortunate in
+obtaining for the last three days a sufficient supply of flesh, our
+hunters having killed two or three deer every day.
+
+Friday 30. The weather was fine, and having now made all our purchases,
+we loaded our horses, and prepared to start. The greater part of the
+band who had delayed their journey on our account, were also ready to
+depart. We then took our leave of the Shoshonees, who set out on their
+visit to the Missouri at the same time that we accompanied by the old
+guide, his four sons, and another Indian, began the descent of the
+river, along the same road which captain Clarke had previously pursued.
+After riding twelve miles we encamped on the south bank of the river,
+and as the hunters had brought in three deer early in the morning we did
+not feel the want of provisions.
+
+Saturday 31. At sunrise we resumed our journey, and halted for three
+hours on Salmon creek to let the horses graze. We then proceeded to the
+stream called Berry creek eighteen miles from the camp of last night: as
+we passed along, the vallies and prairies were on fire in several
+places, in order to collect the bands of the Shoshonees and the
+Flatheads, for their journey to the Missouri. The weather was warm and
+sultry, but the only inconvenience which we apprehend is a dearth of
+food, of which we had to-day an abundance, having procured a deer, a
+goose, one duck and a prairie fowl. On reaching Tower creek we left the
+former track of captain Clarke, and began to explore the new route,
+which is our last hope of getting out of the mountains. For four miles
+the road, which is tolerably plain, led us along Berry creek to some old
+Indian lodges where we encamped for the night; the next day,
+
+Sunday, September 1, 1805, we followed the same road which here left the
+creek and turned to the northwest across the hills. During all day we
+were riding over these hills, from which are many drains and small
+streams running into the river to the left, and at the distance of
+eighteen miles, came to a large creek called Fish creek emptying into
+the Columbia which is about six miles from us. It had rained in the
+course of the day, and commenced raining again towards evening. We
+therefore determined not to leave the low grounds to night, and after
+going up Fish creek four miles formed our encampment. The country over
+which we passed is well watered, but poor and rugged or stony, except
+the bottoms of Fish creek, and even these are narrow. Two men were sent
+to purchase fish of the Indians at the mouth of the creek, and with the
+dried fish which they obtained, and a deer and a few salmon killed by
+the party, we were still well supplied. Two bear also were wounded but
+we could procure neither of them.
+
+Monday 2. This morning all the Indians left us, except the old guide,
+who now conducted us up Fish creek: at one mile and a half we passed a
+branch of the river coming in through a low ground covered with pine on
+the left, and two and a half miles further is a second branch from the
+right; after continuing our route along the hills covered with pine, and
+a low ground of the same growth, we arrived at the distance of three and
+a half miles at the forks of the creek. The road which we were following
+now turned up the east side of these forks, and as our guide informed us
+led to the Missouri. We were therefore left without any track; but as no
+time was to be lost we began to cut our road up the west branch of the
+creek. This we effected with much difficulty; the thickets of trees and
+brush through which we were obliged to cut our way required great
+labour; the road itself was over the steep and rocky sides of the hills
+where the horses could not move without danger of slipping down, while
+their feet were bruised by the rocks and stumps of trees. Accustomed as
+these animals were to this kind of life they suffered severely, several
+of them fell to some distance down the sides of the hills, some turned
+over with the baggage, one was crippled, and two gave out exhausted with
+fatigue. After crossing the creek several times we at last made five
+miles, with great fatigue and labour, and encamped on the left side of
+the creek in a small stony low ground. It was not, however, till after
+dark that the whole party was collected, and then, as it rained, and we
+killed nothing, we passed an uncomfortable night. The party had been too
+busily occupied with the horses to make any hunting excursion, and
+though as we came along Fish creek we saw many beaver dams we saw none
+of the animals themselves. In the morning,
+
+Tuesday 3, the horses were very stiff and weary. We sent back two men
+for the load of the horse which had been crippled yesterday, and which
+we had been forced to leave two miles behind. On their return, we set
+out at eight o'clock, and proceeded up the creek, making a passage
+through the brush and timber along its borders. The country is generally
+supplied with pine, and in the low grounds is a great abundance of fir
+trees, and under bushes. The mountains are high and rugged, and those to
+the east of us, covered with snow. With all our precautions the horses
+were very much injured in passing over the ridges and steep points of
+the hills, and to add to the difficulty, at the distance of eleven
+miles, the high mountains closed the creek, so that we were obliged to
+leave the creek to the right, and cross the mountain abruptly. The
+ascent was here so steep that several of the horses slipped and hurt
+themselves, but at last we succeeded in crossing the mountain, and
+encamped on a small branch of Fish creek. We had now made fourteen miles
+in a direction nearly north from the river; but this distance, though
+short, was very fatiguing, and rendered still more disagreeable by the
+rain which began at three o'clock. At dusk it commenced snowing, and
+continued till the ground was covered to the depth of two inches, when
+it changed into a sleet. We here met with a serious misfortune the last
+of our thermometers being broken by accident. After making a scanty
+supper on a little corn and a few pheasants killed in the course of the
+day, we laid down to sleep, and next morning,
+
+Wednesday 4, found every thing frozen, and the ground covered with snow.
+We were obliged to wait some time in order to thaw the covers of the
+baggage, after which we began our journey at eight o'clock. We crossed a
+high mountain which joins the dividing ridge between the waters of the
+creek we had been ascending, and those running to the north and west. We
+had not gone more than six miles over the snow, when we reached the head
+of a stream from the right, which directed its course more to the
+westward. We descended the steep sides of the hills along its border,
+and at the distance of three miles found a small branch coming in from
+the eastward. We saw several of the argalia, but they were too shy to be
+killed, and we therefore made a dinner from a deer shot by one of the
+hunters. Then we pursued the course of the stream for three miles, till
+it emptied itself into a river from the east. In the wide valley at
+their junction, we discovered a large encampment of Indians: when we had
+reached them and alighted from our horses, we were received with great
+cordiality. A council was immediately assembled, white robes were thrown
+over our soldiers, and the pipe of peace introduced. After this
+ceremony, as it was too late to go any further, we encamped, and
+continued smoking and conversing with the chiefs till a late hour. The
+next morning,
+
+Thursday 5, we assembled the chiefs and warriors, and informed them who
+we were, and the purpose for which we visited their country. All this
+was however conveyed to them through so many different languages, that
+it was not comprehended without difficulty. We therefore proceeded to
+the more intelligible language of presents, and made four chiefs by
+giving a medal and a small quantity of tobacco to each. We received in
+turn from the principal chief, a present consisting of the skins of a
+braro, an otter, and two antelopes, and were treated by the women to
+some dried roots and berries. We then began to traffic for horses, and
+succeeded in exchanging seven, purchasing eleven, for which we gave a
+few articles of merchandise.
+
+This encampment consists of thirty-three tents, in which were about four
+hundred souls, among whom eighty were men. They are called Ootlashoots,
+and represent themselves as one band of a nation called Tushepaws, a
+numerous people of four hundred and fifty tents, residing on the heads
+of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, and some of them lower down the
+latter river. In person these Indians are stout, and their complexion
+lighter than that common among Indians. The hair of the men is worn in
+queues of otter skin, falling in front over the shoulders. A shirt of
+dressed skin covers the body to the knee, and on this is worn
+occasionally a robe. To these were added leggings and moccasins. The
+women suffer their hair to fall in disorder over the face and shoulders,
+and their chief article of covering is a long shirt of skin, reaching
+down to the ancles, and tied round the waist. In other respects, as also
+in the few ornaments which they possess, their appearance is similar to
+that of the Shoshonees; there is however a difference between the
+language of these people which is still farther increased by the very
+extraordinary pronunciation of the Ootlashoots. Their words have all a
+remarkably guttural sound, and there is nothing which seems to represent
+the tone of their speaking more exactly than the clucking of a fowl, or
+the noise of a parrot. This peculiarity renders their voices scarcely
+audible, except at a short distance, and when many of them are talking,
+forms a strange confusion of sounds. The common conversation we
+overheard, consisted of low guttural sounds occasionally broken by a
+loud word or two, after which it would relapse and scarcely be
+distinguished. They seem kind and friendly and willingly shared with us
+berries and roots, which formed their only stock of provisions. Their
+only wealth is their horses, which are very fine, and so numerous that
+this party had with them at least five hundred.
+
+Friday 6. We continued this morning with the Ootlashoots, from whom we
+purchased two more horses, and procured a vocabulary of their language.
+The Ootlashoots set off about two o'clock to join the different bands
+who were collecting at the three forks of the Missouri. We ourselves
+proceeded at the same time, and taking a direction N. 30 W. crossed
+within the distance of one mile and a half, a small river from the
+right, and a creek coming in from the north. This river is the main
+stream, and when it reaches the end of the valley, where the mountains
+close in upon it, is joined by the river on which we encamped last
+evening, as well as by the creek just mentioned. To the river thus
+formed we gave the name of captain Clarke, he being the first white man
+who had ever visited its waters. At the end of five miles on this course
+we had crossed the valley, and reached the top of a mountain covered
+with pine; this we descended along the steep sides and ravines for a
+mile and a half, when we came to a spot on the river, where the
+Ootlashoots had encamped a few days before. We then followed the course
+of the river, which is from twenty-five to thirty yards wide, shallow,
+stony, and the low grounds on its borders narrow. Within the distance of
+three and a half miles, we crossed it several times, and after passing a
+run on each side, encamped on its right bank, after making ten miles
+during the afternoon. The horses were turned out to graze, but those we
+had lately bought were secured and watched, lest they should escape, or
+be stolen by their former owners. Our stock of flour was now exhausted,
+and we had but little corn, and as our hunters had killed nothing except
+two pheasants, our supper consisted chiefly of berries.
+
+Saturday, 7. The greater part of the day the weather was dark and rainy:
+we continued through the narrow low grounds along the river, till at the
+distance of six miles we came to a large creek from the left, after
+which the bottoms widen. Four miles lower is another creek on the same
+side, and the valley now extends from one to three miles, the mountains
+on the left being high and bald, with snow on the summits, while the
+country to the right is open and hilly. Four miles beyond this is a
+creek running from the snow-top'd mountains, and several runs on both
+sides of the river. Two miles from this last is another creek on the
+left. The afternoon was now far advanced, but not being able to find a
+fit place to encamp we continued six miles further till after dark, when
+we halted for the night. The river here is still shallow and stony, but
+is increased to the width of fifty yards. The valley through which we
+passed is of a poor soil, and its fertility injured by the quantity of
+stone scattered over it. We met two horses which had strayed from the
+Indians and were now quite wild. No fish was to be seen in the river,
+but we obtained a very agreeable supply of two deer, two cranes, and two
+pheasants.
+
+Sunday, 8. We set out early: the snow-top'd hills on the left approach
+the river near our camp, but we soon reached a valley four or five miles
+wide, through which we followed the course of the river in a direction
+due north. We passed three creeks on the right, and several runs
+emptying themselves into the opposite side of the river. At the distance
+of eleven miles the river turned more towards the west: we pursued it
+for twelve miles, and encamped near a large creek coming in from the
+right, which, from its being divided into four different channels, we
+called Scattering creek. The valley continues to be a poor stony land,
+with scarcely any timber, except some pine trees along the waters and
+partially scattered on the hills to the right, which, as well as those
+on the left, have snow on them. The plant which forces itself most on
+our attention is a species of prickly pear very common on this part of
+the river: it grows in clusters, in an oval form about the size of a
+pigeon's egg, and its thorns are so strong and bearded, that when it
+penetrates our feet it brings away the pear itself. We saw two mares and
+a colt, which, like the horses seen yesterday, seemed to have lost
+themselves and become wild. Our game to-day consisted of two deer, an
+elk, and a prairie fowl.
+
+Monday, 9. We resumed our journey through the valley, and leaving the
+road on our right crossed the Scattering creek, and halted at the
+distance of twelve miles on a small run from the east, where we
+breakfasted on the remains of yesterday's hunt: we here took a meridian
+altitude, which gave the latitude of 46 degrees 41' 38" 9"': we then
+continued, and at the distance of four miles passed over to the left
+bank of the river, where we found a large road through the valley. At
+this place is a handsome stream of very clear water, a hundred yards
+wide with low banks, and a bed formed entirely of gravel: it has every
+appearance of being navigable, but as it contains no salmon, we presume
+there must be some fall below which obstructs their passage. Our guide
+could not inform us where this river discharged its waters; he said that
+as far as he knew its course it ran along the mountains to the north,
+and that not far from our present position it was joined by another
+stream nearly as large as itself, which rises in the mountains to the
+east near the Missouri, and flows through an extensive valley or open
+prairie. Through this prairie is the great Indian road to the waters of
+the Missouri; and so direct is the route, that in four days' journey
+from this place we might reach the Missouri about thirty miles above
+what we called the Gates of the Rocky mountains, or the spot where the
+valley of that river widens into an extensive plain on entering the
+chain of mountains. At ten miles from our camp is a small creek falling
+in from the eastward, five miles below which we halted at a large stream
+which empties itself on the west side of the river. It is a fine bold
+creek of clear water about twenty yards wide, and we called it
+_Traveller's-rest_ creek; for as our guide told us that we should here
+leave the river, we determined to remain for the purpose of making
+celestial observations and collecting some food, as the country through
+which we are to pass has no game for a great distance.
+
+The valley of the river through which we have been passing is generally
+a prairie from five to six miles in width, and with a cold gravelly
+white soil. The timber which it possesses is almost exclusively pine,
+chiefly of the long-leafed kind, with some spruce, and a species of fir
+resembling the Scotch fir: near the water courses are also seen a few
+narrow-leafed cottonwood trees, and the only underbrush is the redwood,
+honeysuckle, and rosebushes. Our game was four deer, three geese, four
+ducks, and three prairie fowls; one of the hunters brought in a
+red-headed woodpecker of the large kind common in the United States,
+but the first of the kind we have seen since leaving the Illinois.
+
+Tuesday, 10. The morning being fair all the hunters were sent out, and
+the rest of the party employed in repairing their clothes: two of them
+were sent to the junction of the river from the east, along which the
+Indians go to the Missouri: it is about seven miles below
+Traveller's-rest creek; the country at the forks is seven or eight miles
+wide, level and open, but with little timber; its course is to the
+north, and we incline to believe that this is the river which the
+Minnetarees had described to us as running from south to north along the
+west side of the Rocky mountains, not far from the sources of Medicine
+river: there is moreover reason to suppose, that after going as far
+northward as the head-waters of that river it turns to the westward and
+joins the Tacootchetessee. Towards evening one of the hunters returned
+with three Indians, whom he had met in his excursion up Traveller's-rest
+creek: as soon as they saw him they prepared to attack him with arrows,
+but he quieted them by laying down his gun and advancing towards them,
+and soon persuaded them to come to the camp. Our Shoshonee guide could
+not speak the language of these people, but by the universal language of
+signs and gesticulations, which is perfectly intelligible among the
+Indians, he found that these were three Tushepaw Flatheads in pursuit of
+two men, supposed to be Shoshonees, who had stolen twenty-three of their
+horses: we gave them some boiled venison and a few presents; such as a
+fishhook, a steel to strike fire, and a little powder; but they seemed
+better pleased with a piece of riband which we tied in the hair of each
+of them. They were however in such haste, lest their horses should be
+carried off, that two of them set off after sunset in quest of the
+robbers: the third however was persuaded to remain with us and conduct
+us to his relations: these he said were numerous, and resided on the
+Columbia in the plain below the mountains. From that place he added,
+the river was navigable to the ocean; that some of his relations had
+been there last fall and seen an old white man who resided there by
+himself, and who gave them some handkerchiefs like those we have. The
+distance from this place is five sleeps or days' journey. When our
+hunters had all joined us we found our provisions consisted of four
+deer, a beaver, and three grouse.
+
+The observation of to-day gave 46 degrees 48' 28" as the latitude of
+Travellers-rest creek.
+
+Wednesday 11. Two of our horses having strayed away we were detained all
+the morning before they were caught. In the meantime our Tushepaw Indian
+became impatient of the delay, and set out to return home alone. As
+usual we had dispatched four of our best hunters ahead, and as we hoped
+with their aid and our present stock of provisions to subsist on the
+route, we proceeded at three o'clock up the right side of the creek, and
+encamped under some old Indian huts at the distance of seven miles. The
+road was plain and good; the valley is however narrower than that which
+we left and bordered by high and rugged hills to the right, while the
+mountains on the left were covered with snow. The day was fair and warm,
+the wind from the northwest.
+
+Thursday 12. There was a white frost this morning. We proceeded at seven
+o'clock and soon passed a stream falling in on the right, near which was
+an old Indian camp with a bath or sweating-house covered with earth. At
+two miles distance we ascended a high, and thence continued through a
+hilly and thickly timbered country for nine miles, when we came to the
+forks of the creek, where the road branches up each fork. We followed
+the western route, and finding that the creek made a considerable bend
+at the distance of four miles, crossed a high mountain in order to avoid
+the circuit. The road had been very bad during the first part of the
+day, but the passage of the mountain, which was eight miles across, was
+very painful to the horses, as we were obliged to go over steep stony
+sides of hills and along the hollows and ravines, rendered more
+disagreeable* by the fallen timber, chiefly pine, spruce pine and fir.
+We at length reached the creek, having made twenty-three miles of a
+route so difficult that some of the party did not join us before ten
+o'clock. We found the account of the scantiness of game but too true, as
+we were not able to procure any thing during the whole of yesterday, and
+to-day we killed only a single pheasant. Along the road we observed many
+of the pine trees pealed off, which is done by the Indians to procure
+the inner bark for food in the spring.
+
+Friday 13. Two of the horses strayed away during the night, and one of
+them being captain Lewis's, he remained with four men to search for them
+while we proceeded up the creek: at the distance of two miles we came to
+several springs issuing from large rocks of a coarse hard grit, and
+nearly boiling hot. Those seem to be much frequented as there are
+several paths made by elk, deer and other animals, and near one of the
+springs a hole or Indian bath, and roads leading in different
+directions. These embarrassed our guide, who mistaking the road took us
+three miles out of the proper course over an exceedingly bad route. We
+then fell into the right road, and proceeded on very well, when having
+made five miles we stopped to refresh the horses. Captain Lewis here
+joined us, but not having been able to find his horse two men were sent
+back to continue the search. We then proceeded along the same kind of
+country which we passed yesterday, and after crossing a mountain and
+leaving the sources of the Travellers-rest creek on the left, reached
+after five miles riding a small creek which also came in from the left
+hand, passing through open glades, some of which were half a mile wide.
+The road which had been as usual rugged and stony, became firm, plain
+and level after quitting the head of Travellers-rest. We followed the
+course of this new creek for two miles and encamped at a spot where the
+mountains close on each side. Other mountains covered with snow are in
+view to the southeast and southwest. We were somewhat more fortunate
+to-day in killing a deer and several pheasants which were of the common
+species, except that the tail was black.
+
+Saturday 14. The day was very cloudy with rain and hail in the vallies,
+while on the top of the mountains some snow fell. We proceeded early,
+and continuing along the right side of Glade creek crossed a high
+mountain, and at the distance of six miles reached the place where it is
+joined by another branch of equal size from the right. Near the forks
+the Tushepaws have had an encampment which is but recently abandoned,
+for the grass is entirely destroyed by horses, and two fish weirs across
+the creek are still remaining; no fish were however to be seen. We here
+passed over to the left side of the creek and began the ascent of a very
+high and steep mountain nine miles across. On reaching the other side we
+found a large branch from the left, which seems to rise in the snowy
+mountains to the south and southeast. We continued along the creek two
+miles further, when night coming on we encamped opposite a small island
+at the mouth of a branch on the right side of the river. The mountains
+which we crossed to-day were much more difficult than those of
+yesterday; the last was particularly fatiguing, being steep and stony,
+broken by fallen timber, and thickly overgrown by pine, spruce, fir,
+haematack and tamarac. Although we had made only seventeen miles we were
+all very weary. The whole stock of animal food was now exhausted, and we
+therefore killed a colt, on which we made a hearty supper. From this
+incident we called the last creek we had passed from the south
+Colt-killed creek. The river itself is eighty yards wide, with a swift
+current, and a stony channel. Its Indian name is Kooskooskee.
+
+Sunday 15. At an early hour we proceeded along the right side of the
+Kooskooskee over steep rocky points of land, till at the distance of
+four miles we reached an old Indian fishing place: the road here turned
+to the right of the water, and began to ascend a mountain: but the fire
+and wind had prostrated or dried almost all the timber on the south
+side, and the ascents were so steep that we were forced to wind in every
+direction round the high knobs which constantly impeded our progress.
+Several of the horses lost their foot-hold and slipped: one of them
+which was loaded with a desk and small trunk, rolled over and over for
+forty yards, till his fall was stopped by a tree. The desk was broken;
+but the poor animal escaped without much injury. After clambering in
+this way for four miles, we came to a high snowy part of the mountain
+where was a spring of water, at which we halted two hours to refresh our
+horses.
+
+On leaving the spring the road continued as bad as it was below, and the
+timber more abundant. At four miles we reached the top of the mountain,
+and foreseeing no chance of meeting with water, we encamped on the
+northern side of the mountain, near an old bank of snow, three feet
+deep. Some of this we melted, and supped on the remains of the colt
+killed yesterday. Our only game to-day was two pheasants, and the horses
+on which we calculated as a last resource begin to fail us, for two of
+them were so poor, and worn out with fatigue, that we were obliged to
+leave them behind. All around us are high rugged mountains, among which
+is a lofty range from southeast to northwest, whose tops are without
+timber, and in some places covered with snow. The night was cloudy and
+very cold, and three hours before daybreak,
+
+Monday 16, it began to snow, and continued all day, so that by evening
+it was six or eight inches deep. This covered the track so completely,
+that we were obliged constantly to halt and examine, lest we should lose
+the route. In many places we had nothing to guide us except the
+branches of the trees which, being low, have been rubbed by the burdens
+of the Indian horses. The road was, like that of yesterday, along steep
+hill sides, obstructed with fallen timber, and a growth of eight
+different species of pine, so thickly strewed that the snow falls from
+them as we pass, and keeps us continually wet to the skin, and so cold,
+that we are anxious lest our feet should be frozen, as we have only thin
+moccasins to defend them.
+
+At noon we halted to let the horses feed on some long grass on the south
+side of the mountains, and endeavoured by making fires to keep ourselves
+warm. As soon as the horses were refreshed, captain Clarke went ahead
+with one man, and at the distance of six miles reached a stream from the
+right, and prepared fires by the time of our arrival at dusk. We here
+encamped in a piece of low ground, thickly timbered, but scarcely large
+enough to permit us to lie level. We had now made thirteen miles. We
+were all very wet, cold, and hungry: but although before setting out
+this morning, we had seen four deer, yet we could not procure any of
+them, and were obliged to kill a second colt for our supper.
+
+Tuesday 17. Our horses became so much scattered during the night, that
+we were detained till one o'clock before they were all collected. We
+then continued our route over high rough knobs, and several drains and
+springs, and along a ridge of country separating the waters of two small
+rivers. The road was still difficult, and several of the horses fell and
+injured themselves very much, so that we were unable to advance more
+than ten miles to a small stream, on which we encamped.
+
+We had killed a few pheasants, but these being insufficient for our
+subsistence, we killed another of the colts. This want of provisions,
+and the extreme fatigue to which we were subjected, and the dreary
+prospects before us, began to dispirit the men. It was therefore agreed
+that captain Clarke should go on ahead with six hunters, and endeavour
+to kill something for the support of the party. He therefore set out,
+
+Wednesday 18, early in the morning in hopes of finding a level country
+from which he might send back some game. His route lay S. 85 degrees W.,
+along the same high dividing ridge, and the road was still very bad; but
+he moved on rapidly, and at the distance of twenty miles was rejoiced on
+discovering far off an extensive plain towards the west and southwest,
+bounded by a high mountain. He halted an hour to let the horses eat a
+little grass on the hill sides, and then went on twelve and a half miles
+till he reached a bold creek, running to the left, on which he encamped.
+To this stream he gave the very appropriate name of Hungry creek; for
+having procured no game, they had nothing to eat.
+
+In the meantime we were detained till after eight o'clock by the loss of
+one of our horses which had strayed away and could not be found. We then
+proceeded, but having soon finished the remainder of the colt killed
+yesterday, felt the want of provisions, which was more sensible from our
+meeting with no water, till towards nightfall we found some in a ravine
+among the hills. By pushing on our horses almost to their utmost
+strength, we made eighteen miles.
+
+We then melted some snow, and supped on a little portable soup, a few
+canisters of which, with about twenty weight of bears oil, are our only
+remaining means of subsistence. Our guns are scarcely of any service,
+for there is no living creature in these mountains, except a few small
+pheasants, a small species of gray squirrel, and a blue bird of the
+vulture kind about the size of a turtle dove or jay, and even these are
+difficult to shoot.
+
+Thursday 19. Captain Clarke proceeded up the creek, along which the road
+was more steep and stony than any he had yet passed, At six miles
+distance he reached a small plain, in which he fortunately found a
+horse, on which he breakfasted, and hung the rest on a tree for the
+party in the rear. Two miles beyond this he left the creek, and crossed
+three high mountains, rendered almost impassable from the steepness of
+the ascent and the quantity of fallen timber. After clambering over
+these ridges and mountains, and passing the heads of some branches of
+Hungry creek, he came to a large creek running westward. This he
+followed for four miles, then turned to the right down the mountain,
+till he came to a small creek to the left. Here he halted, having made
+twenty-two miles on his course, south eighty degrees west, though the
+winding route over the mountains almost doubled the distance. On
+descending the last mountain, the heat became much more sensible after
+the extreme cold he had experienced for several days past. Besides the
+breakfast in the morning, two pheasants were their only food during the
+day, and the only kinds of birds they saw were the blue jay, a small
+white-headed hawk, a larger hawk, crows, and ravens.
+
+We followed soon after sunrise. At six miles the ridge terminated and we
+had before us the cheering prospect of the large plain to the southwest.
+On leaving the ridge we again ascended and went down several mountains,
+and six miles further came to Hungry creek where it was fifteen yards
+wide, and received the waters of a branch from the north. We went up it
+on a course nearly due west, and at three miles crossed a second branch
+flowing from the same quarter. The country is thickly covered with pine
+timber, of which we have enumerated eight distinct species. Three miles
+beyond this last branch of Hungry creek we encamped, after a fatiguing
+route of eighteen miles. The road along the creek is a narrow rocky path
+near the borders of very high precipices, from which a fall seems almost
+inevitable destruction. One of our horses slipped and rolling over with
+his load down the hill side, which was nearly perpendicular and strewed
+with large irregular rocks, nearly a hundred yards, and did not stop
+till he fell into the creek: we all expected he was killed, but to our
+astonishment, on taking off his load, he rose, and seemed but little
+injured, and in twenty minutes proceeded with his load. Having no other
+provision we took some portable soup, our only refreshment during the
+day. This abstinence, joined with fatigue, has a visible effect on our
+health. The men are growing weak and losing their flesh very fast:
+several are afflicted with the dysentery, and eruptions of the skin are
+very common.
+
+Friday 20. Captain Clarke went on through a country as rugged as usual,
+till on passing a low mountain he came at the distance of four miles to
+the forks of a large creek. Down this he kept on a course south 60
+degrees west for two miles, then turning to the right, continued over a
+dividing ridge where were the heads of several little streams, and at
+twelve miles distance descended the last of the rocky mountains and
+reached the level country. A beautiful open plain partially supplied
+with pine now presented itself. He continued for five miles when he
+discovered three Indian boys, who, on observing the party, ran off and
+hid themselves in the grass. Captain Clarke immediately alighted, and
+giving his horse and gun to one of the men went after the boys. He soon
+relieved their apprehensions and sent them forward to the village about
+a mile off with presents of small pieces of riband. Soon after the boys
+had reached home, a man came out to meet the party, with great caution,
+but he conducted them to a large tent in the village, and all the
+inhabitants gathered round to view with a mixture of fear and pleasure
+these wonderful strangers. The conductor now informed captain Clarke by
+signs, that the spacious tent was the residence of the great chief, who
+had set out three days ago with all the warriors to attack some of their
+enemies towards the southwest; that he would not return before fifteen
+or eighteen days, and that in the meantime there were only a few men
+left to guard the women and children. They now set before them a small
+piece of buffaloe meat, some dried salmon, berries, and several kinds of
+roots. Among these last is one which is round and much like an onion in
+appearance and sweet to the taste: it is called quamash, and is eaten
+either in its natural state, or boiled into a kind of soup or made into
+a cake, which is then called pasheco. After the long abstinence this was
+a sumptuous treat; we returned the kindness of the people by a few small
+presents, and then went on in company with one of the chiefs to a second
+village in the same plain, at the distance of two miles. Here the party
+was treated with great kindness and passed the night. The hunters were
+sent out, but though they saw some tracks of deer were not able to
+procure any thing.
+
+We were detained till ten o'clock before we could collect our scattered
+horses; we then proceeded for two miles, when to our great joy we found
+the horse which captain Clarke had killed, and a note apprising us of
+his intention of going to the plains towards the southwest, and collect
+provisions by the time we reached him. At one o'clock we halted on a
+small stream, and made a hearty meal of horse flesh. On examination it
+now appeared that one of the horses was missing, and the man in whose
+charge he had been, was directed to return and search for him. He came
+back in about two hours without having been able to find the horse; but
+as the load was too valuable to be lost, two of the best woodsmen were
+directed to continue the search while we proceeded. Our general course
+was south 25 degrees west through a thick forest of large pine, which
+has fallen in many places, and very much obstructs the road. After
+making about fifteen miles we encamped on a ridge where we could find
+but little grass and no water. We succeeded, however, in procuring a
+little from a distance, and supped on the remainder of the horse.
+
+On descending the heights of the mountains the soil becomes gradually
+more fertile, and the land through which we passed this evening, is of
+an excellent quality. It has a dark gray soil, though very broken, and
+with large masses of gray free-stone above the ground in many places.
+Among the vegetable productions we distinguished the alder, honeysuckle,
+and huckleberry, common in the United States, and a species of
+honeysuckle, known only westward of the Rocky mountains, which rises to
+the height of about four feet, and bears a white berry. There is also a
+plant resembling the chokecherry, which grows in thick clumps eight or
+ten feet high, and bears a black berry with a single stone of a sweetish
+taste. The arbor vitae too, is very common, and grows to a great size,
+being from two to six feet in diameter.
+
+Saturday 21. The free use of food, to which he had not been accustomed,
+made captain Clarke very sick both yesterday evening and during the
+whole of to-day. He therefore sent out all the hunters and remained
+himself at the village, as well on account of his sickness as for the
+purpose of avoiding suspicion and collecting information from the
+Indians as to the route.
+
+The two villages consist of about thirty double tents, and the
+inhabitants call themselves Chopunnish or Pierced-nose. The chief drew a
+chart of the river, and explained, that a greater chief than himself,
+who governed this village and was called the Twisted-hair, was now
+fishing at the distance of half a day's ride down the river: his chart
+made the Kooskooskee fork a little below his camp, a second fork below,
+still further on a large branch flowed in on each side, below which the
+river passed the mountains: here was a great fall of water, near which
+lived white people, from whom were procured the white beads and brass
+ornaments worn by the women.
+
+A chief of another band made a visit this morning, and smoked with
+captain Clarke. The hunters returned without having been able to kill
+any thing; captain Clarke purchased as much dried salmon, roots, and
+berries as he could, with the few articles he chanced to have in his
+pockets, and having sent them by one of the men and a hired Indian back
+to captain Lewis, he went on towards the camp of the Twisted-hair. It
+was four o'clock before he set out, and the night soon came on; but
+having met an Indian coming from the river, they engaged him by a
+present of a neckcloth, to guide them to the Twisted-hair's camp. For
+twelve miles they proceeded through the plain before they reached the
+river hills, which are very high and steep. The whole valley from these
+hills to the Rocky mountain is a beautiful level country, with a rich
+soil covered with grass: there is, however, but little timber, and the
+ground is badly watered: the plain is so much lower than the surrounding
+hills, or so much sheltered by them, that the weather is quite warm,
+while the cold of the mountains was extreme. From the top of the river
+hills they proceeded down for three miles till they reached the water
+side, between eleven and twelve o'clock at night: here we found a small
+camp of five squaws and three children, the chief himself being
+encamped, with two others, on a small island in the river: the guide
+called to him and he soon came over. Captain Clarke gave him a medal,
+and they smoked together till one o'clock.
+
+We could not set out till eleven o'clock, because being obliged in the
+evening to loosen our horses to enable them to find subsistence, it is
+always difficult to collect them in the morning. At that hour we
+continued along the ridge on which we had slept, and at a mile and a
+half reached a large creek running to our left, just above its junction
+with one of its branches. We proceeded down the low grounds of this
+creek, which are level, wide, and heavily timbered, but turned to the
+right at the distance of two and a half miles, and began to pass the
+broken and hilly country; but the thick timber had fallen in so many
+places that we could scarcely make our way. After going five miles we
+passed the creek on which captain Clarke had encamped during the night
+of the 19th, and continued five miles further over the same kind of
+road, till we came to the forks of a large creek. We crossed the
+northern branch of this stream, and proceeded down it on the west side
+for a mile: here we found a small plain where there was tolerable grass
+for the horses, and therefore remained during the night, having made
+fifteen miles on a course S. 30 degrees W.
+
+The arbor vitae increases in size and quantity as we advance: some of
+the trees we passed to-day being capable of forming periogues at least
+forty-five feet in length. We were so fortunate also as to kill a few
+pheasants and a prairie wolf, which, with the remainder of the horse,
+supplied us with one meal, the last of our provisions, our food for the
+morrow being wholly dependent on the chance of our guns.
+
+Sunday, 22. Captain Clarke passed over to the island with the
+Twisted-hair, who seemed to be cheerful and sincere in his conduct. The
+river at this place is about one hundred and sixty yards wide, but
+interrupted by shoals, and the low grounds on its borders are narrow.
+The hunters brought in three deer; after which Captain Clarke left his
+party, and accompanied by the Twisted-hair and his son, rode back to the
+village, where he arrived about sunset: they then walked up together to
+the second village, where we had just arrived. We had intended to set
+out early, but one of the men having neglected to hobble his horse he
+strayed away, and we were obliged to wait till nearly twelve o'clock. We
+then proceeded on a western course for two and a half miles, when we met
+the hunters sent by Captain Clarke from the village, seven and a half
+miles distant, with provisions. This supply was most seasonable, as we
+had tasted nothing since last night, and the fish, and roots, and
+berries, in addition to a crow which we killed on the route, completely
+satisfied our hunger. After this refreshment we proceeded in much better
+spirits, and at a few miles were overtaken by the two men who had been
+sent back after a horse on the 20th. They were perfectly exhausted with
+the fatigue of walking and the want of food; but as we had two spare
+horses they were mounted and brought on to the village.
+
+They had set out about three o'clock in the afternoon of the 20th with
+one horse between them: after crossing the mountain they came to the
+place where we had eaten the horse. Here they encamped, and having no
+food made a fire and roasted the head of the horse, which even our
+appetites had spared, and supped on the ears, skin, lips, &c. of the
+animal. The next morning, 21st, they found the track of the horse, and
+pursuing it recovered the saddle-bags, and at length about eleven
+o'clock, the horse himself. Being now both mounted, they set out to
+return and slept at a small stream: during the day they had nothing at
+all except two pheasants, which were so torn to pieces by the shot, that
+the head and legs were the only parts fit for food. In this situation
+they found the next morning, 22d, that during the night their horses had
+run away from them or been stolen by the Indians. They searched for them
+until nine o'clock, when seeing that they could not recover them and
+fearful of starving if they remained where they were, they set out on
+foot to join us, carrying the saddle-bags alternately. They walked as
+fast as they could during the day, till they reached us in a deplorable
+state of weakness and inanition.
+
+As we approached the village, most of the women, though apprised of our
+being expected, fled with their children into the neighbouring woods.
+The men, however, received us without any apprehension, and gave us a
+plentiful supply of provisions. The plains were now crowded with
+Indians, who came to see the persons of the whites and the strange
+things they brought with them: but as our guide was perfectly a stranger
+to their language we could converse by signs only. Our inquiries were
+chiefly directed to the situation of the country, the courses of the
+rivers, and the Indian villages, of all which we received information
+from several of the Indians, and as their accounts varied but little
+from each other, we were induced to place confidence in them. Among
+others, the Twisted-hair drew a chart of the river on a white elk skin.
+According to this, the Kooskooskee forks a few miles from this place;
+two days towards the south is another and larger fork on which the
+Shoshonee or Snake Indians fish: five days' journey further is a large
+river from the northwest into which Clarke's river empties itself: from
+the mouth of that river to the falls is five days' journey further: on
+all the forks as well as on the main river great numbers of Indians
+reside, and at the falls are establishments of whites. This was the
+story of the Twisted-hair.
+
+Monday 23. The chiefs and warriors were all assembled this morning, and
+we explained to them where we came from, the objects of our visiting
+them, and our pacific intentions towards all the Indians. This being
+conveyed by signs, might not have been perfectly comprehended, but
+appeared to give perfect satisfaction. We now gave a medal to two of the
+chiefs, a shirt in addition to the medal already received by the
+Twisted-hair, and delivered a flag and a handkerchief for the grand
+chief on his return. To these were added a knife, a handkerchief and a
+small piece of tobacco for each chief. The inhabitants did not give us
+any provisions gratuitously. We therefore purchased a quantity of fish,
+berries (chiefly red haws) and roots; and in the afternoon went on to
+the second village. The Twisted-hair introduced us into his own tent,
+which consisted however of nothing more than pine bushes and bark, and
+gave us some dried salmon boiled. We continued our purchases, and
+obtained as much provision as our horses could carry in their present
+weak condition as far as the river. The men exchanged a few old
+canisters for dressed elk skins, of which they made shirts: great crowds
+of the natives are round us all night, but we have not yet missed any
+thing except a knife and a few other articles stolen yesterday from a
+shot pouch. At dark we had a hard wind from the southwest accompanied
+with rain which lasted half an hour, but in the morning,
+
+Tuesday 24, the weather was fair. We sent back Colter in search of the
+horses lost in the mountains, and having collected the rest set out at
+ten o'clock along the same route already passed by captain Clarke
+towards the river. All round the village the women are busily employed
+in gathering and dressing the pasheco root, of which large quantities
+are heaped up in piles over the plain. We now felt severely the
+consequence of eating heartily after our late privations: captain Lewis
+and two of the men were taken very ill last evening, and to-day he could
+scarcely sit on his horse, while others were obliged to be put on
+horseback, and some from extreme weakness and pain, were forced to lie
+down along side of the road for some time. At sunset we reached the
+island where the hunters had been left on the 22d. They had been
+unsuccessful, having killed only two deer since that time, and two of
+them are very sick. A little below this island is a larger one on which
+we encamped, and administered Rush's pills to the sick.
+
+Wednesday 25. The weather was very hot, and oppressive to the party,
+most of whom are now complaining of sickness. Our situation indeed,
+rendered it necessary to husband our remaining strength, and it was
+determined to proceed down the river in canoes. Captain Clarke therefore
+set out with the Twisted-hair and two young men, in quest of timber for
+canoes. As he went down the river he crossed at the distance of a mile a
+creek from the right, which from the rocks that obstructed its passage,
+he called Rockdam river. The hills along the river are high and steep:
+the low grounds are narrow, and the navigation of the river embarrassed
+by two rapids. At the distance of three miles further he reached two
+nearly equal forks of the river, one of which flowed in from the north.
+Here he rested for an hour, and cooked a few salmon which one of the
+Indians caught with a gig. Here too, he was joined by two canoes of
+Indians from below: they were long, steady, and loaded with the
+furniture and provisions of two families. He now crossed the south fork,
+and returned to the camp on the south side, through a narrow pine bottom
+the greater part of the way, in which was found much fine timber for
+canoes. One of the Indian boats with two men, set out at the same time,
+and such was their dexterity in managing the pole, that they reached
+camp within fifteen minutes after him, although they had to drag the
+canoe over three rapids. He found captain Lewis, and several of the men
+still very sick; and distributed to such as were in need of it, salts
+and tartar emetic.
+
+Thursday 26. Having resolved to go down to some spot calculated for
+building canoes, we set out early this morning and proceeded five miles,
+and encamped on low ground on the south, opposite the forks of the
+river. But so weak were the men that several were taken sick in coming
+down; the weather being oppressively hot. Two chiefs and their families
+followed us, and encamped with a great number of horses near us: and
+soon after our arrival we were joined by two Indians, who came down the
+north fork on a raft. We purchased some fresh salmon, and having
+distributed axes, and portioned off the labour of the party, began,
+
+Friday 27, at an early hour, the preparations for making five canoes.
+But few of the men, however, were able to work, and of these several
+were soon taken ill, as the day proved very hot. The hunters too,
+returned without any game, and seriously indisposed, so that nearly the
+whole party was now ill. We procured some fresh salmon; and Colter, who
+now returned with one of the horses, brought half a deer, which was very
+nourishing to the invalids: several Indians from a camp below, came up
+to see us.
+
+Saturday 28. The men continue ill, though some of those first attacked
+are recovering. Their general complaint is a heaviness at the stomach,
+and a lax, which is rendered more painful by the heat of the weather,
+and the diet of fish and roots, to which they are confined, as no game
+is to be procured. A number of Indians collect about us in the course of
+the day to gaze at the strange appearance of every thing belonging to
+us.
+
+Sunday 29. The morning was cool, the wind from the southwest; but in the
+afternoon the heat returned. The men continue ill; but all those who are
+able to work are occupied at the canoes. The spirits of the party were
+much recruited by three deer brought in by the hunters; and the next
+day,
+
+Monday 30th, the sick began to recruit their strength, the morning being
+fair and pleasant. The Indians pass in great numbers up and down the
+river, and we observe large quantities of small duck going down this
+morning.
+
+Tuesday, October 1, 1805. The morning was cool, the wind easterly, but
+the latter part of the day was warm. We were visited by several Indians
+from the tribes below, and others from the main south fork. To two of
+the most distinguished men, we made presents of a ring and broach, and
+to five others a piece of riband, a little tobacco, and the fifth part
+of a neckcloth. We now dried our clothes and other articles, and
+selected some articles such as the Indians admire, in order to purchase
+some provisions, as we have nothing left except a little dried fish,
+which operates as a complete purgative.
+
+Wednesday 2. The day is very warm. Two men were sent to the village with
+a quantity of these articles to purchase food. We are now reduced to
+roots, which produce violent pains in the stomach. Our work continued as
+usual, and many of the party are convalescent. The hunters returned in
+the afternoon with nothing but a small prairie-wolf, so that our
+provisions being exhausted, we killed one of the horses to eat, and
+provide soup for the sick.
+
+Thursday 3. The fine cool morning and easterly wind had an agreeable
+effect upon the party, most of whom are now able to work. The Indians
+from below left us, and we were visited by others from different
+quarters.
+
+Friday 4. Again we had a cool east wind from the mountains. The men were
+now much better, and captain Lewis himself so far recovered as to walk
+about a little. Three Indians arrived to-day from the Great river to the
+south. The two men also returned from the village with roots and fish,
+and as the flesh of the horse killed yesterday was exhausted, we were
+confined to that diet, although unwholesome as well as unpleasant. The
+afternoon was warm.
+
+Saturday 5. The wind easterly, and the weather cool. The canoes being
+nearly finished it became necessary to dispose of our horses. They were
+therefore collected to the number of thirty-eight, and being branded and
+marked were delivered to three Indians, the two brothers and the son of
+a chief, who promises to accompany us down the river. To each of those
+men we gave a knife and some small articles, and they agreed to take
+good care of the horses till our return. The hunters with all their
+diligence are unable to kill any thing, the hills being high and rugged,
+and the woods too dry to hunt deer, which is the only game in the
+country. We therefore continue to eat dried fish and roots, which are
+purchased from the squaws, by means of small presents, but chiefly white
+beads, of which they are extravagantly fond. Some of these roots seem to
+possess very active properties, for after supping on them this evening,
+we were swelled to such a degree as to be scarcely able to breathe for
+several hours. Towards night we lanched two canoes which proved to be
+very good.
+
+Sunday 6. This morning is again cool, and the wind easterly. The general
+course of the winds seems to resemble that which we observed on the east
+side of the mountain. While on the head waters of the Missouri, we had
+every morning a cool wind from the west. At this place a cool breeze
+springs up during the latter part of the night, or near daybreak, and
+continues till seven or eight o'clock, when it subsides, and the latter
+part of the day is warm. Captain Lewis is not so well as he was, and
+captain Clarke was also taken ill. We had all our saddles buried in a
+cache near the river, about half a mile below, and deposited at the same
+time a canister of powder, and a bag of balls. The time which could be
+spared from our labours on the canoes, was devoted to some astronomical
+observations. The latitude of our camp as deduced from the mean of two
+observations is 46 degrees 34' 56" 3"' north.
+
+Monday 7. This morning all the canoes were put in the water and loaded,
+the oars fixed, and every preparation made for setting out but when we
+were all ready, the two chiefs who had promised to accompany us, were
+not to be found, and at the same time we missed a pipe tomahawk. We
+therefore proceeded without them. Below the forks this river is called
+the Kooskooskee, and is a clear rapid stream, with a number of shoals
+and difficult places. For some miles the hills are steep, the low
+grounds narrow, but then succeeds an open country with a few trees
+scattered along the river. At the distance of nine miles is a small
+creek on the left. We passed in the course of the day ten rapids, in
+descending which, one of the canoes struck a rock, and sprung a leak: we
+however continued for nineteen miles, and encamped on the left side of
+the river, opposite to the mouth of a small run. Here the canoe was
+unloaded and repaired, and two lead canisters of powder deposited;
+several camps of Indians were on the sides of the river, but we had
+little intercourse with any of them.
+
+Tuesday 8. We set out at nine o'clock. At eight and a half miles we
+passed an island: four and a half miles lower a second island, opposite
+a small creek on the left side of the river. Five miles lower is another
+island on the left: a mile and a half below which is a fourth. At a
+short distance from this is a large creek from the right, to which we
+gave the name of Colter's creek, from Colter one of the men. We had
+left this creek about a mile and a half, and were passing the last of
+fifteen rapids which we had been fortunate enough to escape, when one of
+the canoes struck, and a hole being made in her side, she immediately
+filled and sunk. The men, several of whom could not swim, clung to the
+boat till one of our canoes could be unloaded, and with the assistance
+of an Indian boat, they were all brought to shore. All the goods were so
+much wet, that we were obliged to halt for the night, and spread them
+out to dry. While all this was exhibited, it was necessary to place two
+sentinels over the merchandise, for we found that the Indians, though
+kind and disposed to give us every aid during our distress, could not
+resist the temptation of pilfering some of the small articles. We passed
+during our route of twenty miles to-day, several encampments of Indians
+on the islands, and near the rapids, which places are chosen as most
+convenient for taking salmon. At one of these camps we found our two
+chiefs, who after promising to descend the river with us, had left us;
+they however willingly came on board after we had gone through the
+ceremony of smoking.
+
+Wednesday, 9. The morning was as usual, cool; but as the weather both
+yesterday and to-day was cloudy, our merchandise dried but slowly. The
+boat, though much injured, was repaired by ten o'clock so as to be
+perfectly fit for service; but we were obliged to remain during the day
+till the articles were sufficiently dry to be reloaded: the interval we
+employed in purchasing fish for the voyage and conversing with the
+Indians. In the afternoon we were surprised at hearing that our old
+Shoshonee guide and his son had left us, and been seen running up the
+river several miles above. As he had never given any notice of his
+intention, nor had even received his pay for guiding us, we could not
+imagine the cause of his desertion, nor did he ever return to explain
+his conduct. We requested the chief to send a horseman after him to
+request that he would return and receive what we owed him. From this
+however he dissuaded us, and said very frankly, that his nation, the
+Chopunnish, would take from the old man any presents that he might have
+on passing their camp.
+
+The Indians came about our camp at night, and were very gay and
+good-humoured with the men. Among other exhibitions was that of a squaw
+who appeared to be crazy: she sang in a wild incoherent manner, and
+would offer to the spectators all the little articles she possessed,
+scarifying herself in a horrid manner if any one refused her present:
+she seemed to be an object of pity among the Indians, who suffered her
+to do as she pleased without interruption.
+
+Thursday, 10. A fine morning. We loaded the canoes and set off at seven
+o'clock. At the distance of two and a half miles we had passed three
+islands, the last of which is opposite to a small stream on the right.
+Within the following three and a half miles is another island and a
+creek on the left, with wide low grounds, containing willow and
+cottonwood trees, on which were three tents of Indians. Two miles lower
+is the head of a large island, and six and a half miles further we
+halted at an encampment of eight lodges on the left, in order to view a
+rapid before us: we had already passed eight, and some of them
+difficult; but this was worse than any of them, being a very hazardous
+ripple strewed with rocks: we here purchased roots and dined with the
+Indians. Among them was a man from the falls, who says that he saw white
+people at that place and is very desirous of going down with us; an
+offer which however we declined. Just above this camp we had passed a
+tent, near which was an Indian bathing himself in a small pond or hole
+of water, warmed by throwing in hot stones. After finishing our meal we
+descended the rapid with no injury, except to one of our boats which ran
+against a rock, but in the course of an hour was brought off with only a
+small split in her side. This ripple, from its appearance and
+difficulty, we named the Rugged rapid. We went on over five other rapids
+of a less dangerous kind, and at the distance of five miles reached a
+large fork of the river from the south; and after coming twenty miles,
+halted below the junction on the right side of the river: our arrival
+soon attracted the attention of the Indians, who flocked in all
+directions to see us. In the evening the Indian from the falls, whom we
+had seen at the Rugged rapid, joined us with his son in a small canoe,
+and insisted on accompanying us to the falls. Being again reduced to
+fish and roots we made an experiment to vary our food by purchasing* a
+few dogs, and after having been accustomed to horse-flesh, felt no
+disrelish to this new dish. The Chopunnish have great numbers of dogs
+which they employ for domestic purposes, but never eat; and our using
+the flesh of that animal soon brought us into ridicule as dog-eaters.
+
+The country at the junction of the two rivers is an open plain on all
+sides, broken towards the left by a distant ridge of highland, thinly
+covered with timber: this is the only body of timber which the country
+possesses; for at the forks there is not a tree to be seen, and during
+almost the whole descent of sixty miles down the Kooskooskee from its
+forks there are very few. This southern branch is in fact the main
+stream of Lewis's river on which we encamped when among the Shoshonees.
+The Indians inform us that it is navigable for sixty miles; that not far
+from its mouth it receives a branch from the south; and a second and
+larger branch, two days' march up, and nearly parallel to the first
+Chopunnish villages, we met near the mountains. This branch is called
+Pawnashte, and is the residence of a chief, who, according to their
+expression, has more horses than he can count. The river has many
+rapids, near which are situated many fishing camps; there being ten
+establishments of this before reaching the first southern branch; one on
+that stream, five between that and the Pawnashte; one on that river, and
+two above it; besides many other Indians who reside high up on the more
+distant waters of this river. All these Indians belong to the
+Chopunnish nation, and live in tents of an oblong form, covered with
+flat roofs.
+
+At its mouth Lewis's river is about two hundred and fifty yards wide,
+and its water is of a greenish blue colour. The Kooskooskee, whose
+waters are clear as crystal, one hundred and fifty yards in width, and
+after the union the river enlarges to the space of three hundred yards:
+at the point of the union is an Indian cabin, and in Lewis's river a
+small island.
+
+The Chopunnish or Pierced-nose nation, who reside on the Kooskooskee and
+Lewis's rivers, are in person stout, portly, well-looking men: the women
+are small, with good features, and generally handsome, though the
+complexion of both sexes is darker than that of the Tushepaws. In dress
+they resemble that nation, being fond of displaying their ornaments. The
+buffaloe or elk-skin robe decorated with beads, sea-shells, chiefly
+mother-of-pearl, attached to an otter-skin collar and hung in the hair,
+which falls in front in two queues; feathers, paints of different kinds,
+principally white, green, and light blue, all of which they find in
+their own country: these are the chief ornaments they use. In the winter
+they wear a short shirt of dressed skins, long painted leggings and
+moccasins, and a plait of twisted grass round the neck.
+
+The dress of the women is more simple, consisting of a long shirt of
+argalia or ibex skin, reaching down to the ankles without a girdle: to
+this are tied little pieces of brass and shells and other small
+articles; but the head is not at all ornamented. The dress of the female
+is indeed more modest, and more studiously so than any we have observed,
+though the other sex is careless of the indelicacy of exposure.
+
+The Chopunnish have very few amusements, for their life is painful and
+laborious; and all their exertions are necessary to earn even their
+precarious subsistence. During the summer and autumn they are busily
+occupied in fishing for salmon, and collecting their winter store of
+roots. In the winter they hunt the deer on snow shoes over the plains,
+and towards spring cross the mountains to the Missouri for the purpose
+of trafficking for buffaloe robes. The inconveniences of that
+comfortless life are increased by frequent encounters with their enemies
+from the west, who drive them over the mountains with the loss of their
+horses, and sometimes the lives of many of the nation. Though originally
+the same people, their dialect varies very perceptibly from that of the
+Tushepaws: their treatment to us differed much from the kind and
+disinterested services of the Shoshonees: they are indeed selfish and
+avaricious; they part very reluctantly with every article of food or
+clothing; and while they expect a recompense for every service however
+small, do not concern themselves about reciprocating any presents we may
+give them.
+
+They are generally healthy--the only disorders which we have had
+occasion to remark being of a scrophulous kind, and for these, as well
+as for the amusement of those who are in good health, hot and cold
+bathing is very commonly used.
+
+The soil of these prairies is of a light yellow clay intermixed with
+small smooth grass: it is barren, and produces little more than a
+bearded grass about three inches high, and a prickly pear, of which we
+now found three species: the first is of the broad-leafed kind, common
+to the Missouri. The second has the leaf of a globular form, and is also
+frequent on the upper part of the Missouri, particularly after it enters
+the Rocky mountains. The third is pecular to this country, and is much
+more inconvenient than the other two: it consists of small thick leaves
+of a circular form, which grow from the margin of each other as in the
+broad-leafed pear of the Missouri: these leaves are armed with a greater
+number of thorns, which are stronger, and appear to be barbed; and as
+the leaf itself is very slightly attached to the stem, as soon as one
+thorn touches the moccasin it adheres and brings with it the leaf, which
+is accompanied by a reenforecement of thorns.
+
+
+                             END OF VOLUME 1.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of History of the Expedition under the
+Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I., by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark
+
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