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diff --git a/16565-8.txt b/16565-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0bd42ff --- /dev/null +++ b/16565-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,15988 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of History of the Expedition under the Command +of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I., by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I. + To The Sources Of The Missouri, Thence Across The Rocky + Mountains And Down The River Columbia To The Pacific Ocean. + Performed During The Years 1804-5-6. + +Author: Meriwether Lewis and William Clark + +Editor: Paul Allen + +Release Date: August 20, 2005 [EBook #16565] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LEWIS AND CLARK, I. *** + + + + +Produced by The Library of Congress, Marilynda +Fraser-Cunliffe, Peter Barozzi and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + -------------------------------------------------------- + | * Transcriber's Note: Every effort has been made | + | to replicate this text as faithfully as possible, | + | including obsolete and variant spellings and other | + | inconsistencies. Where the text has been changed | + | to correct an obvious error by the publisher, the | + | word has been marked with an asterisk. | + -------------------------------------------------------- + + + + +[Illustration: A Map of Lewis and Clark's Track, Across the Western +Portion of North America, From the Mississippi to the Pacific Ocean; +by Order of the Executive of the United States, in 1804, 5&6. +Copied by Samuel Lewis from the Original Drawing by Wm. Clark.] + + + + + HISTORY + + OF + + THE EXPEDITION + + UNDER THE COMMAND OF + + _CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARK,_ + + TO + + THE SOURCES OF THE MISSOURI, + + THENCE + + ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS + + AND DOWN THE + + RIVER COLUMBIA TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. + + PERFORMED DURING THE YEARS 1804-5-6. + + + By order of the + + GOVERNMENT OF THE UNITED STATES. + + + + PREPARED FOR THE PRESS + BY PAUL ALLEN, ESQUIRE. + IN TWO VOLUMES. + + VOL. I. + + + _PHILADELPHIA_ + + PUBLISHED BY BRADFORD AND INSKEEP; AND + ABM. H. INSKEEP, NEW YORK. + J. Maxwell, Printer + 1814. + + + + +DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, to wit: + + BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the twenty-second day of January, in the + thirty-eighth year of the independence of the United States of + America, A.D. 1814, Bradford and Inskeep, of the said district, + have deposited in this office the title of a book, the right + whereof they claim as proprietors, in the words following, to wit: + + "History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and + Clark, to the Sources of the Missouri, thence across the Rocky + Mountains, and down the River Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. + Performed during the Years 1804-5-6, by order of the Government of + the United States. Prepared for the press by Paul Allen, Esquire." + + In conformity to the act of Congress of the United States, entitled + "An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies + of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such + copies during the times therein mentioned." And also to the act, + entitled, "An act supplementary to an act, entitled, "An act for + the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, + charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies + during the times therein mentioned," and extending the benefits + thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching historical + and other prints." + DAVID CALDWELL, + Clerk of the District of Pennsylvania. + + + + + PREFACE. + + +In presenting these volumes to the public, the editor owes equally to +himself and to others, to state the circumstances which have preceded +the publication, and to explain his own share in compiling them. + +It was the original design of captain Lewis to have been himself the +editor of his own travels, and he was on his way towards Philadelphia +for that purpose when his sudden death frustrated these intentions. +After a considerable and unavoidable delay, the papers connected with +the expedition were deposited with another gentleman, who, in order to +render the lapse of time as little injurious as possible, proceeded +immediately to collect and investigate all the materials within his +reach. + +Of the incidents of each day during the expedition, a minute journal was +kept by captain Lewis or captain Clark, and sometimes by both, which was +afterwards revised and enlarged at the different periods of leisure +which occurred on the route. These were carefully perused in conjunction +with captain Clark himself, who was able from his own recollection of +the journey, as well as from a constant residence in Louisiana since his +return, to supply a great mass of explanations, and much additional +information with regard to part of the route which has been more +recently explored. Besides these, recourse was had to the manuscript +journals kept by two of the serjeants, one of which, the least minute +and valuable, has already been published. That nothing might be wanting +to the accuracy of these details, a very intelligent and active member +of the party, Mr. George Shannon, was sent to contribute whatever his +memory might add to this accumulated fund of information. + +From these copious materials the narrative was sketched nearly in its +present form, when other pursuits diverted the attention of the writer, +and compelled him to transfer his manuscript, in its unfinished state, +with all the documents connected with it, to the present editor, to +prepare them for the press and superintend the publication. That he may +not seem to arrogate any thing from the exertions of others, he should +therefore state that, although the whole work was thus submitted to his +entire discretion, he found but little to change, and that his labour +has been principally confined to revising the manuscript, comparing it +with the original papers, and inserting such additional matter as +appears to have been intentionally deferred by the writer till the +period of a more mature revisal. These circumstances, which would +otherwise be indifferent to the public, are mentioned merely to account +for imperfections, which are in some degree inseparable from any book of +travels not written by the traveller. In a work of pure description +indeed, like the present, where the incidents themselves are the sole +objects of attraction, the part of an editor is necessarily subordinate, +nor can his humble pretensions aspire beyond the merit of rigid +adherence to facts as they are stated to him. This has been very +diligently attempted, and for this, in its full extent, the editor deems +himself responsible. + +The present volumes, it will be perceived, comprise only the narrative +of the journey. Those parts of the work which relate to the various +objects of natural history, observed or collected during the journey, as +well as the alphabets of the Indian languages, are in the hands of +professor Bartou, and will, it is understood, shortly appear. + +To give still further interest to the work, the editor addressed a +letter to Mr. Jefferson, requesting some authentic memoirs of captain +Lewis. For the very curious and valuable information contained in his +answer, the public, as well as the editor himself, owe great obligations +to the politeness and knowledge of that distinguished gentleman. + + PAUL ALLEN. +PHILADELPHIA, January 1, 1814. + + + + + LIFE OF CAPTAIN LEWIS. + + _Monticello, August 18, 1813._ +SIR, + +In compliance with the request conveyed in your letter of May 25, I +have endeavoured to obtain, from the relations and friends of the late +governor Lewis, information of such incidents of his life as might be +not unacceptable to those who may read the narrative of his western +discoveries. The ordinary occurrences of a private life, and those also +while acting in a subordinate sphere in the army, in a time of peace, +are not deemed sufficiently interesting to occupy the public attention; +but a general account of his parentage, with such smaller incidents as +marked his early character are briefly noted; and to these are added, as +being peculiarly within my own knowledge, whatever related to the public +mission, of which an account is now to be published. The result of my +inquiries and recollections shall now be offered, to be enlarged or +abridged as you may think best; or otherwise to be used with the +materials you may have collected from other sources. + +Meriwether Lewis, late governor of Louisiana, was born on the eighteenth +of August, 1774, near the town of Charlottesville, in the county of +Albemarle, in Virginia, of one of the distinguished families of that +state. John Lewis, one of his father's uncles was a member of the +king's council, before the revolution. Another of them, Fielding Lewis, +married a sister of general Washington. His father, William Lewis, was +the youngest of five sons of colonel Robert Lewis, of Albemarle, the +fourth of whom, Charles, was one of the early patriots who stepped +forward in the commencement of the revolution and commanded one of the +regiments first raised in Virginia, and placed on continental +establishment. Happily situated at home, with a wife and young family, +and a fortune placing him at ease, he left all to aid in the liberation +of his country from foreign usurpations, then first unmasking their +ultimate end and aim. His good sense, integrity, bravery, enterprise, +and remarkable bodily powers, marked him as an officer of great promise; +but he unfortunately died early in the revolution. Nicholas Lewis, the +second of his father's brothers, commanded a regiment of militia in the +successful expedition of 1776, against the Cherokee Indians; who, +seduced by the agents of the British government to take up the hatchet +against us, had committed great havoc on our southern frontier, by +murdering and scalping helpless women and children, according to their +cruel and cowardly principles of warfare. The chastisement they then +received closed the history of their wars, and prepared them for +receiving the elements of civilization, which, zealously inculcated by +the present government of the United States, have rendered them an +industrious, peaceable, and happy people. This member of the family of +Lewises, whose bravery was so usefully proved on this occasion, was +endeared to all who knew him by his inflexible probity, courteous +disposition, benevolent heart, and engaging modesty and manners. He was +the umpire of all the private differences of his county--selected always +by both parties. He was also the guardian of Meriwether Lewis, of whom +we are now to speak, and who had lost his father at an early age. He +continued some years under the fostering care of a tender mother, of the +respectable family of Meriwethers, of the same county; and was +remarkable even in infancy for enterprise, boldness, and discretion. +When only eight years of age he habitually went out, in the dead of +night, alone with his dogs, into the forest to hunt the raccoon and +opossum, which, seeking their food in the night, can then only be taken. +In this exercise, no season or circumstance could obstruct his +purpose--plunging through the winter's snows and frozen streams in +pursuit of his object. At thirteen he was put to the Latin school, and +continued at that until eighteen, when he returned to his mother, and +entered on the cares of his farm; having, as well as a younger brother, +been left by his father with a competency for all the correct and +comfortable purposes of temperate life. His talent for observation, +which had led him to an accurate knowledge of the plants and animals of +his own country, would have distinguished him as a farmer; but at the +age of twenty, yielding to the ardour of youth, and a passion for more +dazzling pursuits, he engaged as a volunteer in the body of militia +which were called out by general Washington, on occasion of the +discontents produced by the excise taxes in the western parts of the +United States; and from that situation he was removed to the regular +service as a lieutenant in the line. At twenty-three he was promoted to +a captaincy; and, always attracting the first attention where +punctuality and fidelity were requisite, he was appointed paymaster to +his regiment. About this time a circumstance occurred which, leading to +the transaction which is the subject of this book, will justify a +recurrence to its original idea. While I resided in Paris, John Ledyard, +of Connecticut, arrived there, well known in the United States for +energy of body and mind. He had accompanied captain Cook on his voyage +to the Pacific ocean; and distinguished himself on that voyage by his +intrepidity. Being of a roaming disposition, he was now panting for some +new enterprise. His immediate object at Paris was to engage a mercantile +company in the fur-trade of the western coast of America, in which, +however, he failed. I then proposed to him to go by land to Kamschatka, +cross in some of the Russian vessels to Nootka Sound, fall down into the +latitude of the Missouri, and penetrate to, and through, that to the +United States. He eagerly seized the idea, and only asked to be assured +of the permission of the Russian government. I interested, in obtaining +that, M. de Simoulin, minister plenipotentiary of the empress at Paris, +but more especially the baron de Grimm, minister plenipotentiary of +Saxe-Gotha, her more special agent and correspondent there in matters +not immediately diplomatic. Her permission was obtained, and an +assurance of protection while the course of the voyage should be through +her territories. Ledyard set out from Paris, and arrived at St. +Petersburgh after the empress had left that place to pass the winter, I +think, at Moscow. His finances not permitting him to make unnecessary +stay at St. Petersburgh, he left it with a passport from one of the +ministers; and at two hundred miles from Kamschatka, was obliged to take +up his winter quarters. He was preparing, in the spring, to resume his +journey, when he was arrested by an officer of the empress, who by this +time had changed her mind, and forbidden his proceeding. He was put into +a close carriage, and conveyed day and night, without ever stopping, +till they reached Poland; where he was set down and left to himself. The +fatigue of this journey broke down his constitution; and when he +returned to Paris his bodily strength was much impaired. His mind, +however, remained firm, and he after this undertook the journey to +Egypt. I received a letter from him, full of sanguine hopes, dated at +Cairo, the fifteenth of November, 1788, the day before he was to set out +for the head of the Nile; on which day, however, he ended his career and +life: and thus failed the first attempt to explore the western part of +our northern continent. + +In 1792, I proposed to the American Philosophical Society that we should +set on foot a subscription to engage some competent person to explore +that region in the opposite direction; that is, by ascending the +Missouri, crossing the Stony mountains, and descending the nearest river +to the Pacific. Captain Lewis being then stationed at Charlottesville, +on the recruiting service, warmly solicited me to obtain for him the +execution of that object. I told him it was proposed that the person +engaged should be attended by a single companion only, to avoid exciting +alarm among the Indians. This did not deter him; but Mr. Andre Michaux, +a professed botanist, author of the Flora Boreali-Americana, and of the +Histoire des Chesnes d'Amerique, offering his services, they were +accepted. He received his instructions, and when he had reached Kentucky +in the prosecution of his journey, he was overtaken by an order from the +minister of France, then at Philadelphia, to relinquish the expedition, +and to pursue elsewhere the botanical inquiries on which he was employed +by that government: and thus failed the second attempt for exploring +that region. + +In 1803, the act for establishing trading houses with the Indian tribes +being about to expire, some modifications of it were recommended to +congress by a confidential message of January 18th, and an extension of +its views to the Indians on the Missouri. In order to prepare the way, +the message proposed the sending an exploring party to trace the +Missouri to its source, to cross the Highlands, and follow the best +water-communication which offered itself from thence to the Pacific +ocean. Congress approved the proposition, and voted a sum of money for +carrying it into execution. Captain Lewis, who had then been near two +years with me as private secretary, immediately renewed his +solicitations to have the direction of the party. I had now had +opportunities of knowing him intimately. Of courage undaunted; +possessing a firmness and perseverance of purpose which nothing but +impossibilities could divert from its direction; careful as a father of +those committed to his charge, yet steady in the maintenance of order +and discipline; intimate with the Indian character, customs, and +principles; habituated to the hunting life; guarded, by exact +observation of the vegetables and animals of his own country, against +losing time in the description of objects already possessed; honest, +disinterested, liberal, of sound understanding, and a fidelity to truth +so scrupulous, that whatever he should report would be as certain as if +seen by ourselves; with all these qualifications, as if selected and +implanted by nature in one body for this express purpose, I could have +no hesitation in confiding the enterprise to him. To fill up the measure +desired, he wanted nothing but a greater familiarity with the technical +language of the natural sciences, and readiness in the astronomical +observations necessary for the geography of his route. To acquire these +he repaired immediately to Philadelphia, and placed himself under the +tutorage of the distinguished professors of that place, who with a zeal +and emulation, enkindled by an ardent devotion to science, communicated +to him freely the information requisite for the purposes of the journey. +While attending too, at Lancaster, the fabrication of the arms with +which he chose that his men should be provided, he had the benefit of +daily communication with Mr. Andrew Ellicot, whose experience in +astronomical observation, and practice of it in the woods, enabled him +to apprise captain Lewis of the wants and difficulties he would +encounter, and of the substitutes and resources offered by a woodland +and uninhabited country. + +Deeming it necessary he should have some person with him of known +competence to the direction of the enterprise, in the event of accident +to himself, he proposed William Clarke, brother of general George Rogers +Clarke, who was approved, and, with that view, received a commission of +captain. + +In April, 1803, a draught of his instructions was sent to captain Lewis, +and on the twentieth of June they were signed in the following form: + + "To Meriwether Lewis, esquire, captain of the first regiment of + infantry of the United States of America: + + "Your situation as secretary of the president of the United States, + has made you acquainted with the objects of my confidential message + of January 18, 1803, to the legislature; you have seen the act they + passed, which, though expressed in general terms, was meant to + sanction those objects, and you are appointed to carry them into + execution. + + "Instruments for ascertaining, by celestial observations, the + geography of the country through which you will pass, have been + already provided. Light articles for barter and presents among the + Indians, arms for your attendants, say for from ten to twelve men, + boats, tents, and other travelling apparatus, with ammunition, + medicine, surgical instruments, and provisions, you will have + prepared, with such aids as the secretary at war can yield in his + department; and from him also you will receive authority to engage + among our troops, by voluntary agreement, the number of attendants + abovementioned; over whom you, as their commanding officer, are + invested with all the powers the laws give in such a case. + + "As your movements, while within the limits of the United States, + will be better directed by occasional communications, adapted to + circumstances as they arise, they will not be noticed here. What + follows will respect your proceedings after your departure from the + United States. + + "Your mission has been communicated to the ministers here from + France, Spain, and Great Britain, and through them to their + governments; and such assurances given them as to its objects, as + we trust will satisfy them. The country of Louisiana having been + ceded by Spain to France, the passport you have from the minister + of France, the representative of the present sovereign of the + country, will be a protection with all its subjects; and that from + the minister of England will entitle you to the friendly aid of any + traders of that allegiance with whom you may happen to meet. + + "The object of your mission is to explore the Missouri river, and + such principal streams of it, as, by its course and communication + with the waters of the Pacific ocean, whether the Columbia, Oregan, + Colorado, or any other river, may offer the most direct and + practicable water-communication across the continent, for the + purposes of commerce. + + "Beginning at the mouth of the Missouri, you will take observations + of latitude and longitude, at all remarkable points on the river, + and especially at the mouths of rivers, at rapids, at islands, and + other places and objects distinguished by such natural marks and + characters, of a durable kind, as that they may with certainty be + recognised hereafter. The courses of the river between these points + of observation may be supplied by the compass, the log-line, and by + time, corrected by the observations themselves. The variations of + the needle, too, in different places, should be noticed. + + "The interesting points of the portage between the heads of the + Missouri, and of the water offering the best communication with the + Pacific ocean, should also be fixed by observation; and the course + of that water to the ocean, in the same manner as that of the + Missouri. + + "Your observations are to be taken with great pains and accuracy; + to be entered distinctly and intelligibly for others as well as + yourself; to comprehend all the elements necessary, with the aid of + the usual tables, to fix the latitude and longitude of the places + at which they were taken; and are to be rendered to the war-office, + for the purpose of having the calculations made concurrently by + proper persons within the United States. Several copies of these, + as well as of your other notes, should be made at leisure times, + and put into the care of the most trust-worthy of your attendants + to guard, by multiplying them against the accidental losses to + which they will be exposed. A further guard would be, that one of + these copies be on the cuticular membranes of the paper-birch, as + less liable to injury from damp than common paper. + + "The commerce which may be carried on with the people inhabiting + the line you will pursue, renders a knowledge of those people + important. You will therefore endeavour to make yourself + acquainted, as far as a diligent pursuit of your journey shall + admit, with the names of the nations and their numbers; + + "The extent and limits of their possessions; + + "Their relations with other tribes or nations; + + "Their language, traditions, monuments; + + "Their ordinary occupations in agriculture, fishing, hunting, war, + arts, and the implements for these; + + "Their food, clothing, and domestic accommodations; + + "The diseases prevalent among them, and the remedies they use; + + "Moral and physical circumstances which distinguish them from the + tribes we know; + + "Peculiarities in their laws, customs, and dispositions; + + "And articles of commerce they may need or furnish, and to what + extent. + + "And, considering the interest which every nation has in extending + and strengthening the authority of reason and justice among the + people around them, it will be useful to acquire what knowledge you + can of the state of morality, religion, and information among them; + as it may better enable those who may endeavour to civilize and + instruct them, to adapt their measures to the existing notions and + practices of those on whom they are to operate. + + "Other objects worthy of notice will be-- + + "The soil and face of the country, its growth and vegetable + productions, especially those not of the United States; + + "The animals of the country generally, and especially those not + known in the United States; + + "The remains and accounts of any which may be deemed rare or + extinct; + + "The mineral productions of every kind, but more particularly + metals, lime-stone, pit-coal, and saltpetre; salines and mineral + waters, noting the temperature of the last, and such circumstances + as may indicate their character; + + "Volcanic appearances; + + "Climate, as characterized by the thermometer, by the proportion of + rainy, cloudy, and clear days; by lightning, hail, snow, ice; by + the access and recess of frost; by the winds prevailing at + different seasons; the dates at which particular plants put forth, + or lose their flower or leaf; times of appearance of particular + birds, reptiles or insects. + + "Although your route will be along the channel of the Missouri, yet + you will endeavour to inform yourself, by inquiry, of the character + and extent of the country watered by its branches, and especially + on its southern side. The North river, or Rio Bravo, which runs + into the gulf of Mexico, and the North river, or Rio Colorado, + which runs into the gulf of California, are understood to be the + principal streams heading opposite to the waters of the Missouri, + and running southwardly. Whether the dividing grounds between the + Missouri and them are mountains or flat lands, what are their + distance from the Missouri, the character of the intermediate + country, and the people inhabiting it, are worthy of particular + inquiry. The northern waters of the Missouri are less to be + inquired after, because they have been ascertained to a + considerable degree, and are still in a course of ascertainment by + English traders and travellers; but if you can learn any thing + certain of the most northern source of the Missisipi, and of its + position relatively to the Lake of the Woods, it will be + interesting to us. Some account too of the path of the Canadian + traders from the Missisipi, at the mouth of the Onisconsing to + where it strikes the Missouri, and of the soil and rivers in its + course, is desirable. + + "In all your intercourse with the natives, treat them in the most + friendly and conciliatory manner which their own conduct will + admit; allay all jealousies as to the object of your journey; + satisfy them of its innocence; make them acquainted with the + position, extent, character, peaceable and commercial dispositions + of the United States; of our wish to be neighbourly, friendly, and + useful to them, and of our dispositions to a commercial intercourse + with them; confer with them on the points most convenient as mutual + emporiums, and the articles of most desirable interchange for them + and us. If a few of their influential chiefs, within practicable + distance, wish to visit us, arrange such a visit with them, and + furnish them with authority to call on our officers on their + entering the United States, to have them conveyed to this place at + the public expense. If any of them should wish to have some of + their young people brought up with us, and taught such arts as may + be useful to them, we will receive, instruct, and take care of + them. Such a mission, whether of influential chiefs, or of young + people, would give some security to your own party. Carry with you + some matter of the kine-pox; inform those of them with whom you may + be of its efficacy as a preservative from the small-pox, and + instruct and encourage them in the use of it. This may be + especially done wherever you winter. + + "As it is impossible for us to foresee in what manner you will be + received by those people, whether with hospitality or hostility, so + is it impossible to prescribe the exact degree of perseverance with + which you are to pursue your journey. We value too much the lives + of citizens to offer them to probable destruction. Your numbers + will be sufficient to secure you against the unauthorized + opposition of individuals, or of small parties; but if a superior + force, authorized, or not authorized, by a nation, should be + arrayed against your further passage, and inflexibly determined to + arrest it, you must decline its further pursuit and return. In the + loss of yourselves we should lose also the information you will + have acquired. By returning safely with that, you may enable us to + renew the essay with better calculated means. To your own + discretion, therefore, must be left the degree of danger you may + risk, and the point at which you should decline, only saying, we + wish you to err on the side of your safety, and to bring back your + party safe, even if it be with less information. + + "As far up the Missouri as the white settlements extend, an + intercourse will probably be found to exist between them and the + Spanish posts of St. Louis opposite Cahokia, or St. Genevieve + opposite Kaskaskia. From still further up the river the traders may + furnish a conveyance for letters. Beyond that you may perhaps be + able to engage Indians to bring letters for the government to + Cahokia, or Kaskaskia, on promising that they shall there receive + such special compensation as you shall have stipulated with them. + Avail yourself of these means to communicate to us, at seasonable + intervals, a copy of your journal, notes and observations of every + kind, putting into cypher whatever might do injury if betrayed. + + "Should you reach the Pacific ocean, inform yourself of the + circumstances which may decide whether the furs of those parts may + not be collected as advantageously at the head of the Missouri + (convenient as is supposed to the waters of the Colorado and Oregan + or Columbia) as at Nootka Sound, or any other point of that coast; + and that trade be consequently conducted through the Missouri and + United States more beneficially than by the circumnavigation now + practised. + + "On your arrival on that coast, endeavour to learn if there be any + port within your reach frequented by the sea vessels of any nation, + and to send two of your trusty people back by sea, in such way as + shall appear practicable, with a copy of your notes; and should you + be of opinion that the return of your party by the way they went + will be imminently dangerous, then ship the whole, and return by + sea, by the way either of Cape Horn, or the Cape of Good Hope, as + you shall be able. As you will be without money, clothes, or + provisions, you must endeavour to use the credit of the United + States to obtain them; for which purpose open letters of credit + shall be furnished you, authorizing you to draw on the executive of + the United States, or any of its officers, in any part of the + world, on which draughts can be disposed of, and to apply with our + recommendations to the consuls, agents, merchants, or citizens of + any nation with which we have intercourse, assuring them, in our + name, that any aids they may furnish you shall be honourably + repaid, and on demand. Our consuls, Thomas Hewes, at Batavia, in + Java, William Buchanan, in the Isles of France and Bourbon, and + John Elmslie, at the Cape of Good Hope, will be able to supply your + necessities, by draughts on us. + + "Should you find it safe to return by the way you go, after sending + two of your party round by sea, or with your whole party, if no + conveyance by sea can be found, do so; making such observations on + your return as may serve to supply, correct, or confirm those made + on your outward journey. + + "On reentering the United States and reaching a place of safety, + discharge any of your attendants who may desire and deserve it, + procuring for them immediate payment of all arrears of pay and + clothing which may have incurred since their departure, and assure + them that they shall be recommended to the liberality of the + legislature for the grant of a soldier's portion of land each, as + proposed in my message to congress, and repair yourself, with your + papers, to the seat of government. + + "To provide, on the accident of your death, against anarchy, + dispersion, and the consequent danger to your party, and total + failure of the enterprise, you are hereby authorized, by any + instrument signed and written in your own hand, to name the person + among them who shall succeed to the command on your decease, and by + like instruments to change the nomination, from time to time, as + further experience of the characters accompanying you shall point + out superior fitness; and all the powers and authorities given to + yourself are, in the event of your death, transferred to, and + vested in the successor so named, with further power to him and his + successors, in like manner to name each his successor, who, on the + death of his predecessor, shall be invested with all the powers and + authorities given to yourself. Given under my hand at the city of + Washington, this twentieth day of June, 1803. + + "THOMAS JEFFERSON, + "_President of the United States of America_." + + +While these things were going on here, the country of Louisiana, lately +ceded by Spain to France, had been the subject of negotiation at Paris +between us and this last power; and had actually been transferred to us +by treaties executed at Paris on the thirtieth of April. This +information, received about the first day of July, increased infinitely +the interest we felt in the expedition, and lessened the apprehensions +of interruption from other powers. Every thing in this quarter being now +prepared, captain Lewis left Washington on the fifth of July, 1803, and +proceeded to Pittsburg, where other articles had been ordered to be +provided for him. The men too were to be selected from the military +stations on the Ohio. Delays of preparation, difficulties of navigation +down the Ohio, and other untoward obstructions, retarded his arrival at +Cahokia until the season was so far advanced as to render it prudent to +suspend his entering the Missouri before the ice should break up in the +succeeding spring. + +From this time his journal, now published, will give the history of his +journey to and from the Pacific ocean, until his return to St. Louis on +the twenty-third of September, 1806. Never did a similar event excite +more joy through the United States. The humblest of its citizens had +taken a lively interest in the issue of this journey, and looked forward +with impatience for the information it would furnish. Their anxieties +too for the safety of the corps had been kept in a state of excitement +by lugubrious rumours, circulated from time to time on uncertain +authorities, and uncontradicted by letters, or other direct information, +from the time they had left the Mandan towns, on their ascent up the +river in April of the preceding year, 1805, until their actual return to +St. Louis. + +It was the middle of February, 1807, before captain Lewis, with his +companion captain Clarke, reached the city of Washington, where congress +was then in session. That body granted to the two chiefs and their +followers the donation of lands which they had been encouraged to expect +in reward of their toil and dangers. Captain Lewis was soon after +appointed governor of Louisiana, and captain Clarke a general of its +militia, and agent of the United States for Indian affairs in that +department. + +A considerable time intervened before the governor's arrival at St. +Louis. He found the territory distracted by feuds and contentions among +the officers of the government, and the people themselves divided by +these into factions and parties. He determined at once to take no side +with either; but to use every endeavour to conciliate and harmonize +them. The even-handed justice he administered to all soon established a +respect for his person and authority; and perseverance and time wore +down animosities, and reunited the citizens again into one family. + +Governor Lewis had, from early life, been subject to hypochondriac +affections. It was a constitutional disposition in all the nearer +branches of the family of his name, and was more immediately inherited +by him from his father. They had not, however, been so strong as to give +uneasiness to his family. While he lived with me in Washington I +observed at times sensible depressions of mind: but knowing their +constitutional source, I estimated their course by what I had seen in +the family. During his western expedition, the constant exertion which +that required of all the faculties of body and mind, suspended these +distressing affections; but after his establishment at St. Louis in +sedentary occupations, they returned upon him with redoubled vigour, and +began seriously to alarm his friends. He was in a paroxysm of one of +these, when his affairs rendered it necessary for him to go to +Washington. He proceeded to the Chickasaw Bluffs, where he arrived on +the sixteenth of September, 1809, with a view of continuing his journey +thence by water. Mr. Neely, agent of the United States with the +Chickasaw Indians, arriving there two days after, found him extremely +indisposed, and betraying at times some symptoms of a derangement of +mind. The rumours of a war with England, and apprehensions that he might +lose the papers he was bringing on, among which were the vouchers of his +public accounts, and the journals and papers of his western expedition, +induced him here to change his mind, and to take his course by land +through the Chickasaw country. Although he appeared somewhat relieved, +Mr. Neely kindly determined to accompany and watch over him. +Unfortunately, at their encampment, after having passed the Tennessee +one day's journey, they lost two horses, which obliging Mr. Neely to +halt for their recovery, the governor proceeded, under a promise to wait +for him at the house of the first white inhabitant on his road. He +stopped at the house of a Mr. Grinder, who not being at home, his wife, +alarmed at the symptoms of derangement she discovered, gave him up the +house and retired to rest herself in an out-house, the governor's and +Neely's servants lodging in another. About three o'clock in the night he +did the deed which plunged his friends into affliction, and deprived his +country of one of her most valued citizens, whose valour and +intelligence would have been now employed in avenging the wrongs of his +country, and in emulating by land the splendid deeds which have honoured +her arms on the ocean. It lost too to the nation the benefit of +receiving from his own hand the narrative now offered them of his +sufferings and successes, in endeavouring to extend for them the +boundaries of science, and to present to their knowledge that vast and +fertile country, which their sons are destined to fill with arts, with +science, with freedom and happiness. + +To this melancholy close of the life of one, whom posterity will declare +not to have lived in vain, I have only to add, that all the facts I have +stated are either known to myself, or communicated by his family or +others, for whose truth I have no hesitation to make myself responsible; +and I conclude with tendering you the assurances of my respect and +consideration. + + TH. JEFFERSON. + +Mr. PAUL ALLEN, Philadelphia. + + + + + CONTENTS. + + VOL. I. + + + CHAPTER I. + + The party set out on the expedition and pass Wood + river. Description of the town of St. Charles. Osage + Woman river. Gasconade and Osage rivers described. + Character of the Osage Indians; curious traditionary + account of their origin. The party proceed and pass + the Mine river. The two Charitons. The Kanzas, + Nodawa, Newahaw, Neeshuabatona, Little Nemahar, each + of which are particularly described. They encamp at + the mouth of the river Platte. A particular + description of the surrounding country. The various + creeks, bays, islands, prairies, &c. given in the + course of the route. 1 + + + CHAPTER II. + + Some account of the Pawnee Indians. Council held + with the Otto and Missouri Indians. Council held + with another party of the Ottoes. Death of sergeant + Floyd. The party encamp near the mouth of Whitestone + river. The character of the Missouri, with the + rivers that enter it. The surrounding country. The + various islands, bays, creeks, &c. given in the + course of the expedition. 32 + + + CHAPTER III. + + Whimsical instance of superstition of the Sioux + Indians. Council held with the Sioux. Character of + that tribe, their manners, &c. A ridiculous instance + of their heroism. Ancient fortifications. Quieurre + river described. Vast herds of Buffaloe. Account of + the Petit Chien or Little Dog. Narrow escape of + George Shannon. Description of White river. + Surprising fleetness of the antelope. Pass the river + of the Sioux. Description of the Grand Le Tour, or + Great Bend. Encamp on the Teton river. 52 + + + CHAPTER IV. + + Council held with the Tetons. Their manners, dances, + &c. Cheyenne river described. Council held with the + Ricara Indians. Their manners and habits. Strange + instance of Ricara idolatry. Another instance. + Cannonball river. Arrival among the Mandans. + Character of the surrounding country, and of the + creeks, islands, &c. 82 + + + CHAPTER V. + + Council held with the Mandans. A prairie on fire, + and a singular instance of preservation. Peace + established between the Mandans and Ricaras. The + party encamp for the winter. Indian mode of catching + goats. Beautiful appearance of northern lights. + Friendly character of the Indians. Some account of + the Mandans. The Anahaways and the Minnetarees. The + party acquire the confidence of the Mandans by + taking part in their controversy with the Sioux. + Religion of the Mandans, and their singular + conception of the term medicine. Their tradition. + The sufferings of the party from the severity of the + season. Indian game of billiards described. + Character of the Missouri, of the surrounding + country, and of the rivers, creeks, islands, &c. 118 + + + CHAPTER VI. + + The party increase in the favour of the Mandans. + Description of a buffaloe dance. Medicine dance. The + fortitude with which the Indians bear the severity + of the season. Distress of the party for want of + provisions. The great importance of the blacksmith + in procuring it. Depredations of the Sioux. The + homage paid to the medicine stone. Summary act of + justice among the Minnetarees. The process by which + the Mandans and Ricaras make beads. Character of the + Missouri, of the surrounding country, and of the + rivers, creeks, islands, &c. 148 + + + CHAPTER VII. + + Indian method of attacking the buffaloe on the ice. + An enumeration of the presents sent to the president + of the United States. The party are visited by a + Ricara chief. They leave their encampment, and + proceed on their journey. Description of the Little + Missouri. Some account of the Assiniboins. Their + mode of burying the dead. Whiteearth river + described. Great quantity of salt discovered on its + banks. Yellowstone river described. A particular + account of the country at the confluence of the + Yellowstone and Missouri. Description of the + Missouri, the surrounding country, and of the + rivers, creeks, islands, &c. 174 + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + Unusual appearance of salt. The formidable character + of the white bear. Porcupine river described. + Beautiful appearance of the surrounding country. + Immense quantities of game. Milk river described. + Extraordinary character of Bigdry river. An instance + of uncommon tenacity of life in a white bear. Narrow + escape of one of the party from that animal. A still + more remarkable instance. Muscleshell river + described. 199 + + + CHAPTER IX. + + The party continue their route. Description of + Judith river. Indian mode of taking the buffaloe. + Slaughter river described. Phenomena of nature. Of + walls on the banks of the Missouri. The party encamp + on the banks of the river to ascertain which of the + streams constitute the Missouri. Captain Lewis + leaves the party to explore the northern fork, and + captain Clarke explores the southern. The + surrounding country described in the route of + captain Lewis. Narrow escape of one of his party. + 225 + + + CHAPTER X. + + Return of captain Lewis. Account of captain Clarke's + researches with his exploring party. Perilous + situation of one of his party. Tansy river + described. The party still believing the southern + fork the Missouri, captain Lewis is resolves to + ascend it. Mode of making a place to deposit + provisions, called cache. Captain Lewis explores the + southern fork. Falls of the Missouri discovered, + which ascertains the question. Romantic scenery of + the surrounding country. Narrow escape of captain + Lewis. The main body under captain Clarke approach + within five miles of the falls, and prepare for + making a portage over the rapids. 251 + + + CHAPTER XI. + + Description and romantic appearance of the Missouri + at the junction of the Medicine river. The + difficulty of transporting the baggage at the falls. + The party employed in the construction of a boat of + skins. The embarrassments they had to encounter for + the want of proper materials. During the work the + party much troubled by white bears. Violent + hail-storm, and providential escape of captain + Clarke and his party. Description of a remarkable + fountain. Singular explosion heard from the Black + mountains. The boat found to be insufficient, and + the serious disappointment of the party. Captain + Clarke undertakes to repair the damage by building + canoes, and accomplishes the task. 275 + + + CHAPTER XII. + + The party embark on board the canoes. Description of + Smith's river. Character of the country, &c. + Dearborne's river described. Captain Clarke precedes + the party for the purpose of discovering the Indians + of the Rocky mountains. Magnificent rocky + appearances on the borders of the river denominated + the Gates of the Rocky mountains. Captain Clarke + arrives at the three forks of the Missouri without + overtaking the Indians. The party arrive at the + three forks, of which a peculiar and interesting + description is given. 301 + + + CHAPTER XIII. + + The name of the Missouri changed, as the river now + divides itself into three forks, one of which is + called after Jefferson, the other Madison, and the + other after Gallatin. Their general character. The + party ascend the Jefferson branch. Description of + the river Philosophy which enters into the + Jefferson. Captain Lewis and a small party go in + advance in search of the Shoshonees. Description of + the country, &c. bordering on the river. Captain + Lewis still preceding the main party in quest of the + Shoshonees. A singular accident which prevented + captain Clarke from following captain Lewis's + advice, and ascending the middle fork of the river. + Description of Philanthropy river, another stream + running into the Jefferson. Captain Lewis and a + small party having been unsuccessful in their first + attempt, set off a second time in quest of the + Shoshonees. 328 + + + CHAPTER XIV. + + Captain Lewis proceeds before the main body in + search of the Shoshonees; his ill success on the + first interview. The party with captain Lewis at + length discover the source of the Missouri. Captain + Clarke with the main body still employed in + ascending the Missouri or Jefferson river. Captain + Lewis's second interview with the Shoshonees + attended with success. The interesting ceremonies of + his first introduction to the natives, detailed at + large. Their hospitality. Their mode of hunting the + antelope. The difficulties encountered by captain + Clarke and the main body in ascending the river. The + suspicions entertained of captain Lewis by the + Shoshonees, and his mode of allaying them. The + ravenous appetites of the savages illustrated by + singular adventure. The Indians still jealous, and + the great pains taken by captain Lewis to preserve + their confidence. Captain Clarke arrives with the + main body exhausted by the difficulties they + underwent. 354 + + + CHAPTER XV. + + Affecting interview between the wife of Chaboneau + and the chief of the Shoshonees. Council held with + that nation, and favourable result. The extreme + navigable point of the Missouri mentioned. General + character of the river and of the country through + which it passes. Captain Clarke in exploring the + source of the Columbia falls in company with another + party of Shoshonees. The geographical information + acquired from one of that party. Their manner of + catching fish. The party reach Lewis river. The + difficulties which captain Clarke had to encounter + in his route. Friendship and hospitality of the + Shoshonees. The party with captain Lewis employed in + making saddles, and preparing for the journey. 381 + + + CHAPTER XVI. + + Contest between Drewyer and a Shoshonee. The + fidelity and honour of that tribe. The party set out + on their journey. The conduct of Cameahwait + reproved, and himself reconciled. The easy + parturition of the Shoshonee women. History of this + nation. Their terror of the Pawkees. Their + government and family economy in their treatment of + their women. Their complaints of Spanish treachery. + Description of their weapons of warfare. Their + curious mode of making a shield. The caparison of + their horses. The dress of the men and of the women + particularly described. Their mode of acquiring new + names. 407 + + + CHAPTER XVII. + + The party, after procuring horses from the + Shoshonees, proceed on their journey through the + mountains. The difficulties and dangers of the + route. A council held with another band of the + Shoshonees, of whom some account is given. They are + reduced to the necessity of killing their horses for + food. Captain Clarke with a small party precedes the + main body in quest of food, and is hospitably + received by the Pierced-nose Indians. Arrival of the + main body amongst this tribe, with whom a council is + held. They resolve to perform the remainder of their + journey in canoes. Sickness of the party. They + descend the Kooskooskee to its junction with Lewis + river, after passing several dangerous rapids. Short + description of the manners and dress of the + Pierced-nose Indians. 435 + + + + + LEWIS AND CLARKE'S EXPEDITION + + UP THE MISSOURI. + + CHAP. I. + + The party set out on the expedition and pass Wood + river--Description of the town of St. Charles--Osage Woman + river--Gasconade and Osage Rivers described--Character of the + Osage Indians--Curious traditionary account of their Origin--The + party proceed and pass the Mine river--The two Charitons--The + Kanzas, Nodawa, Newahaw, Neeshnabatona, Little Nemahar, each of + which are particularly described--They encamp at the mouth of the + river Platte--A particular description of the surrounding + country--The various Creeks, Bays, Islands, Prairies, &c., given + in the course of the route. + + +On the acquisition of Louisiana, in the year 1803, the attention of the +government of the United States, was early directed towards exploring +and improving the new territory. Accordingly in the summer of the same +year, an expedition was planned by the president for the purpose of +discovering the courses and sources of the Missouri, and the most +convenient water communication thence to the Pacific ocean. His private +secretary captain Meriwether Lewis, and captain William Clarke, both +officers of the army of the United States, were associated in the +command of this enterprize. After receiving the requisite instructions, +captain Lewis left the seat of government, and being joined by captain +Clarke at Louisville, in Kentucky, proceeded to St. Louis, where they +arrived in the month of December. Their original* intention was to pass +the winter at La Charrette, the highest settlement on the Missouri. But +the Spanish commandant of the province, not having received an official +account of its transfer to the United States, was obliged by the general +policy of his government, to prevent strangers from passing through the +Spanish territory. They therefore encamped at the mouth of Wood river, +on the eastern side of the Mississippi, out of his jurisdiction, where +they passed the winter in disciplining the men, and making the necessary +preparations for setting out early in the Spring, before which the +cession was officially announced. The party consisted of nine young men +from Kentucky, fourteen soldiers of the United States army who +volunteered their services, two French watermen--an interpreter and +hunter--and a black servant belonging to captain Clarke--All these, +except the last, were enlisted to serve as privates during the +expedition, and three sergeants appointed from amongst them by the +captains. In addition to these were engaged a corporal and six soldiers, +and nine watermen to accompany the expedition as far as the Mandan +nation, in order to assist in carrying the stores, or repelling an +attack which was most to be apprehended between Wood river and that +tribe. The necessary stores were subdivided into seven bales, and one +box, containing a small portion of each article in case of accident. +They consisted of a great variety of clothing, working utensils, locks, +flints, powder, ball, and articles of the greatest use. To these were +added fourteen bales and one box of Indian presents, distributed in the +same manner, and composed of richly laced coats and other articles of +dress, medals, flags, knives, and tomahawks for the chiefs--ornaments of +different kinds, particularly beads, lookingglasses, handkerchiefs, +paints, and generally such articles as were deemed best calculated for +the taste of the Indians. The party was to embark on board of three +boats: the first was a keel boat fifty-five feet long, drawing three +feet water, carrying one large squaresail and twenty-two oars, a deck of +ten feet in the bow, and stern formed a forecastle and cabin, while the +middle was covered by lockers, which might be raised so as to form a +breast-work in case of attack. This was accompanied by two perioques or +open boats, one of six and the other of seven oars. Two horses were at +the same time to be led along the banks of the river for the purpose of +bringing home game, or hunting in case of scarcity. + +Of the proceedings of this expedition, the following is a succinct and +circumstantial narrative. + +All the preparations being completed, we left our encampment on Monday, +May 14th, 1804. This spot is at the mouth of Wood river, a small stream +which empties itself into the Mississippi, opposite to the entrance of +the Missouri. It is situated in latitude 38° 55' 19-6/10" north, and +longitude from Greenwich, 89° 57' 45". On both sides of the Mississippi +the land for two or three miles is rich and level, but gradually swells +into a high pleasant country, with less timber on the western than on +the eastern side, but all susceptible of cultivation. The point which +separates the two rivers on the north, extends for fifteen or twenty +miles, the greater part of which is an open level plain, in which the +people of the neighbourhood cultivate what little grain they raise. Not +being able to set sail before four o'clock P.M., we did not make more +than four miles, and encamped on the first island opposite a small creek +called Cold Water. + +May 15. The rain, which had continued yesterday and last night, ceased +this morning. We then proceeded, and after passing two small islands +about ten miles further, stopped for the night at Piper's landing, +opposite another island. The water is here very rapid and the banks +falling in. We found that our boat was too heavily laden in the stern, +in consequence of which she ran on logs three times to-day. It became +necessary to throw the greatest weight on the bow of the boat, a +precaution very necessary in ascending both the Missouri and +Mississippi rivers, in the beds of which, there lie great quantities of +concealed timber. + +The next morning we set sail at five o'clock. At the distance of a few +miles, we passed a remarkable large coal hill on the north side, called +by the French La Charbonniere, and arrived at the town of St. Charles. +Here we remained a few days. + +St. Charles is a small town on the north bank of the Missouri, about +twenty-one miles from its confluence with the Mississippi. It is +situated in a narrow plain, sufficiently high to protect it from the +annual risings of the river in the month of June, and at the foot of a +range of small hills, which have occasioned its being called Petite +Cote, a name by which it is more known to the French than by that of St. +Charles. One principal street, about a mile in length and running +parallel with the river, divides the town, which is composed of nearly +one hundred small wooden houses, besides a chapel. The inhabitants, +about four hundred and fifty in number, are chiefly descendants from the +French of Canada; and, in their manners, they unite all the careless +gayety, and the amiable hospitality of the best times of France: yet, +like most of their countrymen in America, they are but ill qualified for +the rude life of a frontier; not that they are without talent, for they +possess much natural genius and vivacity; nor that they are destitute of +enterprize, for their hunting excursions are long, laborious, and +hazardous: but their exertions are all desultory; their industry is +without system, and without perseverance. The surrounding country, +therefore, though rich, is not, in general, well cultivated; the +inhabitants chiefly subsisting by hunting and trade with the Indians, +and confine their culture to gardening, in which they excel. + +Being joined by captain Lewis, who had been detained by business at St. +Louis, we again set sail on Monday, May 21st, in the afternoon, but were +prevented by wind and rain from going more than about three miles, when +we encamped on the upper point of an island, nearly opposite a creek +which falls in on the south side. + +On the 22d we made about eighteen miles, passing several small farms on +the bank of the river, a number of islands, and a large creek on the +south side, called Bonhomme, or Goodman's river. A small number of +emigrants from the United States have settled on the sides of this +creek, which are very fertile. We also passed some high lands, and +encamped, on the north side, near a small creek. Here we met with a camp +of Kickapoo Indians who had left us at St. Charles, with a promise of +procuring us some provisions by the time we overtook them. They now made +us a present of four deer, and we gave them in return two quarts of +whiskey. This tribe reside on the heads of the Kaskaskia and Illinois +river, on the other side of the Mississippi, but occasionally hunt on +the Missouri. + +May 23. Two miles from our camp of last night, we reached a river +emptying itself on the north side, called Osage Woman river. It is about +thirty yards wide, and has now a settlement of thirty or forty families +from the United States. About a mile and a half beyond this is a large +cave, on the south side at the foot of cliffs nearby three hundred feet +high, overhanging the water, which becomes very swift at this place. The +cave is one hundred and twenty feet wide, forty feet deep, and twenty +high, it is known by the name of the Tavern, among the traders who have +written their names on the rock, and painted some images which command +the homage of the Indians and French. About a little further we passed a +small creek called Tavern creek, and encamped on the south side of the +river, having gone nine miles. + +Early the next morning we ascended a very difficult rapid, called the +Devil's Race Ground, where the current sets for half a mile against some +projecting rocks on the south side. We were less fortunate in attempting +a second place of equal difficulty. Passing near the southern shore, the +bank fell in so fast as to oblige us to cross the river instantly, +between the northern side and a sandbar which is constantly moving and +banking with the violence of the current. The boat struck on it, and +would have upset immediately, if the men had not jumped into the water +and held her, till the sand washed from under her. We encamped on the +south side, having ascended ten miles, and the next day, May 25, passed +on the south side the mouth of Wood river, on the north, two small +creeks and several islands, and stopped for the night at the entrance of +a creek on the north side, called by the French La Charrette, ten miles +from our last encampment, and a little above a small village of the same +name. It consists of seven small houses, and as many poor families who +have fixed themselves here for the convenience of trade, and form the +last establishment of whites on the Missouri. It rained last night, yet +we found this morning that the river had fallen several inches. + +May 26. The wind being favourable we made eighteen miles to-day. We +passed in the morning several islands, the largest of which is Buffaloe +island, separated from the southern side by a small channel which +receives the waters of Buffaloe creek. On the same side is Shepherd's +creek, a little beyond which we encamped on the northern side. The next +day we sailed along a large island called Otter island, on the northern +side, extending nearly ten miles in length, narrow but high in its +situation, and one of the most fertile in the whole river. Between it +and the northern shore, three small creeks, one of which has the same +name with the island, empty themselves. On the southern shore is a creek +twenty yards wide, called Ash creek. In the course of the day we met two +canoes loaded with furs, which had been two months on their route, from +the Mahar nation, residing more than seven hundred miles up the +river--one large raft from the Pawnees on the river Platte, and three +others from the Grand Osage river. At the distance of fifteen miles we +encamped on a willow island, at the entrance of the river Gasconade. +This river falls into the Missouri from the south, one hundred miles +from the Mississippi. Its length is about one hundred and fifty miles in +a course generally northeast through a hilly country. On its banks are a +number of saltpetre caves, and it is believed some mines of lead in the +vicinity. Its width at the mouth is one hundred and fifty-seven yards, +and its depth nineteen feet. + +Here we halted for the purpose of hunting and drying our provisions, and +making the necessary celestial observations. This being completed, we +set sail on the 29th at four o'clock, and at four miles distance +encamped on the south-side, above a small creek, called Deer creek. The +next day, 30th, we set out early, and at two miles distant reached a +large cave, on the north, called Montbrun's tavern, after a French +trader of that name, just above a creek called after the same person. +Beyond this is a large island, and at the distance of four miles, Rush +creek coming in from the south, at eleven, Big-muddy river on the north, +about fifty yards wide; three miles further, is Little-muddy river on +the same side, opposite to which we encamped at the mouth of Grindstone +creek. The rain which began last night continued through the day, +accompanied with high wind and some hail. The river has been rising fast +for two days, and the country around appears full of water. Along the +sides of the river to day we observe much timber, the cotton wood, the +sycamore, hickory, white walnut, some grapevines, and rushes--the high +west wind and rain compelled us to remain all the next day, May 31. In +the afternoon a boat came down from the Grand Osage river, bringing a +letter from a person sent to the Osage nation on the Arkansaw river, +which mentioned that the letter announcing the cession of Louisiana was +committed to the flames--that the Indians would not believe that the +Americans were owners of that country, and disregarded St. Louis and its +supplies. The party was occupied in hunting, in the course of which, +they caught in the woods several very large rats. We set sail early the +next morning, June 1st, and at six miles distant passed Bear creek, a +stream of about twenty-five yards width; but the wind being ahead and +the current rapid, we were unable to make more than thirteen miles to +the mouth of the Osage river; where we encamped and remained the +following day, for the purpose of making celestial observations. The +Osage river empties itself into the Missouri, at one hundred and +thirty-three miles distance from the mouth of the latter river. Its +general course is west and west southwest through a rich and level +country. At the junction the Missouri is about eight hundred and +seventy-five yards wide, and the Osage three hundred and ninety-seven. +The low point of junction is in latitude 38° 31' 16", and at a short +distance from it is a high commanding position, whence we enjoyed a +delightful prospect of the country. + +The Osage river gives or owes its name to a nation inhabiting its banks +at a considerable distance from this place. Their present name however, +seems to have originated from the French traders, for both among +themselves and their neighbours they are called the Wasbashas. They +number between twelve and thirteen hundred warriors, and consist of +three tribes: the Great Osages of about five hundred warriors, living in +a village on the south bank of the river--the Little Osages, of nearly +half that number, residing at the distance of six miles from them--and +the Arkansaw band, a colony of Osages, of six hundred warriors, who left +them some years ago, under the command of a chief called the Bigfoot, +and settled on the Vermillion river, a branch of the Arkansaw. In person +the Osages are among the largest and best formed Indians, and are said +to possess fine military capacities; but residing as they do in +villages, and having made considerable advance in agriculture, they seem +less addicted to war, than their northern neighbours, to whom the use of +rifles gives a great superiority. Among the peculiarities of this +people, there is nothing more remarkable than the tradition relative to +their origin. According to universal belief, the founder of the nation +was a snail passing a quiet existence along the banks of the Osage, till +a high flood swept him down to the Missouri, and left him exposed on the +shore. The heat of the sun at length ripened him into a man, but with +the change of his nature, he had not forgotten his native seats on the +Osage, towards which, he immediately bent his way. He was however soon +overtaken by hunger, and fatigue, when happily the Great Spirit +appeared, and giving him a bow and arrow, showed him how to kill and +cook deer, and cover himself with the skin. He then proceeded to his +original residence, but as he approached the river, he was met by a +beaver, who inquired haughtily who he was, and by what authority he came +to disturb his possession. The Osage answered that the river was his +own, for he had once lived on its borders. As they stood disputing, the +daughter of the beaver came, and having by her entreaties reconciled her +father to this young stranger, it was proposed that the Osage should +marry the young beaver, and share with her family the enjoyment of the +river. The Osage readily consented, and from this happy union there soon +came the village and the nation of the Wasbasha, or Osages, who have +ever since preserved a pious reverence for their ancestors, abstaining +from the chace of the beaver, because in killing that animal, they +killed a brother of the Osage. Of late years, however, since the trade +with the whites has rendered beaver skins more valuable, the sanctity of +these maternal relatives has visibly reduced, and the poor animals have +nearly lost all the privileges of kindred. + +On the afternoon of June 3, we proceeded, and at three miles distant, +reached a creek called Cupboard creek, from a rock of that appearance +near its entrance. Two miles further we encamped at Moreau creek, a +stream of twenty yards width, on the southern side. The next morning, we +passed at an early hour, Cedar island on the north, so called from the +abundance of the tree of that name; near which is a small creek, named +Nightingale creek, from a bird of that species, who sang for us during +the night. Beyond Cedar island, are some others of a smaller extent, and +at seven miles distance a creek fifteen or twenty yards wide, entering +from the north, and known by the name of Cedar creek. At seven and a +half miles further, we passed on the south side another creek, which we +called Mast creek, from the circumstance of our mast being broken by +running under a concealed tree; a little above is another creek on the +left, one mile beyond which we encamped on the southern shore under high +projecting cliffs. The French had reported that lead ore was to be found +in this place, but on examining the hills, we could discern no +appearance of that mineral. Along the river on the south, is a low land +covered with rushes, and high nettles, and near the mouths of the +creeks, supplied with oak, ash, and walnut timber. On the north the land +is rich and well situated. We made seventeen and a half miles this day. +The river is falling slowly. We continued our route the next morning +early: a small creek called Lead creek, on the south; another on the +north, known to the French by the name of Little Good Woman's creek, and +again Big Rock creek on the south were the only streams we passed this +morning. At eleven o'clock we met a raft made of two canoes joined +together, in which two French traders were descending, from eighty +leagues up the river Kanzas, where they had wintered, and caught great +quantities of beaver, but had lost much of their game by fires from the +prairies. They told us that the Kanzas nation is now hunting buffaloe in +the plains, having passed the last winter in this river. Two miles +further, we reached on the south Little Manitou creek, which takes its +name from a strange figure resembling the bust of a man, with the horns +of a stag, painted on a projecting rock, which may represent some spirit +or deity. Near this is a sandbar extending several miles, which renders +the navigation difficult, and a small creek called Sand creek on the +south, where we stopped for dinner, and gathered wild cresses and tongue +grass from the sandbar. The rapidity of the currents added to our having +broken our mast, prevented our going more than twelve and a half miles. +The scouts and hunters whom we always kept out, report that they have +seen fresh tracks of Indians. The next morning we left our camp, which +was on the south side, opposite to a large island in the middle of the +river, and at five miles reached a creek on the north side, of about +twenty yards wide, called Split Rock creek, from a fissure in the point +of a neighbouring rock. Three miles beyond this, on the south is Saline +river, it is about thirty yards wide, and has its name from the number +of salt licks, and springs, which render its water brackish; the river +is very rapid and the banks falling in. After leaving Saline creek, we +passed one large island and several smaller ones, having made fourteen +miles. The water rose a foot during the last night. + +The next day, June 7, we passed at four and a half miles Big Manitou +creek, near which is a limestone rock inlaid with flint of various +colours, and embellished, or at least covered with uncouth paintings of +animals and inscriptions. We landed to examine it, but found the place +occupied by a nest of rattlesnakes, of which we killed three. We also +examined some licks and springs of salt water, two or three miles up +this creek. We then proceeded by some small willow islands, and encamped +at the mouth of Good Woman river on the north. It is about thirty-five +yards wide, and said to be navigable for boats several leagues. The +hunters, who had hitherto given us only deer, brought in this evening +three bears, and had seen some indication of buffaloe. We had come +fourteen miles. + +June 8, we saw several small willow islands, and a creek on the south, +near which are a number of deerlicks; at nine miles distance we came to +Mine river. This river, which falls into the Missouri from the south, +is said to be navigable for boats eighty or ninety miles, and is about +seventy yards wide at its mouth. It forks about five or six leagues from +the Missouri, and at the point of junction are some very rich salt +springs; the west branch in particular, is so much impregnated, that, +for twenty miles, the water is not palatable: several branches of the +Manitou and Good Woman are equally tinctured. The French report also, +that lead ore has been found on different parts of the river. We made +several excursions near the river through the low rich country on its +banks, and after dinner went on to the island of Mills, where we +encamped. We met with a party of three hunters from the Sioux river; +they had been out for twelve months, and collected about nine hundred +dollars worth of peltries and furs. We ascended this river twelve miles. + +On the 9th, we set out early, and reached a cliff of rocks, called the +Arrow Rock, near to which is a prairie called the Prairies of Arrows, +and Arrow creek, a small stream about eight yards wide, whose source is +in the adjoining prairies on the south. At this cliff the Missouri is +confined within a bed of two hundred yards; and about four miles to the +south east is a large lick and salt spring of great strength. About +three miles further is Blackbird creek on the north side, opposite to +which, is an island and a prairie inclosing a small lake. Five miles +beyond this we encamped on the south side, after making, in the course +of the day, thirteen miles. The land on the north is a high rich plain. +On the south it is also even, of a good quality, and rising from fifty +to one hundred feet. + +The next morning, 10th, we passed Deer creek, and at the distance of +five miles, the two rivers called by the French the two Charatons, a +corruption of Thieraton, the first of which is thirty, the second +seventy yards wide, and enter the Missouri together. They are both +navigable for boats: the country through which they pass is broken, +rich, and thickly covered with timber. The Ayauway nation, consisting +of three hundred men, have a village near its head-waters on the river +De Moines. Farther on we passed a large island called _Chicot_ or Stump +Island, and encamped on the south, after making ten miles. A head wind +forced us to remain there all the next day, during which we dried the +meat we had killed, and examined the surrounding country, which consists +of good land, well watered, and supplied with timber: the prairies also +differ from those eastward of the Mississippi, inasmuch as the latter +are generally without any covering except grass, whilst the former +abound with hazel, grapes and other fruits, among which is the Osage +plum of a superior size and quality. On the morning of the 12th, we +passed through difficult places in the river, and reached Plum creek on +the south side. At one o'clock, we met two rafts loaded, the one with +furs, the other with the tallow of buffaloe; they were from the Sioux +nation, and on their way to St. Louis; but we were fortunate enough to +engage one of them, a Mr. Durion, who had lived with that nation more +than twenty years, and was high in their confidence, to accompany us +thither. We made nine miles. On the 13th, we passed at between four and +five miles, a bend of the river, and two creeks on the north, called the +Round Bend creeks. Between these two creeks is the prairie, in which +once stood the ancient village of the Missouris. Of this village there +remains no vestige, nor is there any thing to recall this great and +numerous nation, except a feeble remnant of about thirty families. They +were driven from their original seats by the invasions of the Sauks and +other Indians from the Mississippi, who destroyed at this village two +hundred of them in one contest, and sought refuge near the Little Osage, +on the other side of the river. The encroachment of the same enemies +forced, about thirty years since, both these nations from the banks of +the Missouri. A few retired with the Osage, and the remainder found an +asylum on the river Platte, among the Ottoes, who are themselves +declining. Opposite the plain there was an island and a French fort, +but there is now no appearance of either, the successive inundations +having probably washed them away, as the willow island which is in the +situation described by Du Pratz, is small and of recent formation. Five +miles from this place is the mouth of Grand River, where we encamped. +This river follows a course nearly south, or south east, and is between +eighty and a hundred yards wide where it enters the Missouri, near a +delightful and rich plain. A racoon, a bear, and some deer were obtained +to day. We proceeded at six o'clock the next morning. The current was so +rapid and the banks on the north falling in so constantly, that we were +obliged to approach the sandbars on the south. These were moving +continually, and formed the worst passage we had seen, and which we +surmounted with much difficulty. We met a trading raft from the Pawnee +nation on the river Platte, and attempted unsuccessfully to engage one +of their party to return with us. At the distance of eight miles, we +came to some high cliffs, called the Snake bluffs, from the number of +that animal in the neighbourhood, and immediately above these bluffs, +Snake creek, about eighteen yards wide, on which we encamped. One of our +hunters, a half Indian, brought us an account of his having to day +passed a small lake, near which a number of deer were feeding, and in +the pond he heard a snake making a guttural noise like a turkey. He +fired his gun, but the noise became louder. He adds, that he has heard +the Indians mention this species of snake, and this story is confirmed +by a Frenchman of our party. All the next day, the river being very +high, the sandbars were so rolling and numerous, and the current so +strong, that we were unable to stem it even with oars added to our +sails; this obliged us to go nearer the banks, which were falling in, so +that we could not make, though the boat was occasionally towed, more +than fourteen miles. We passed several islands and one creek on the +south side, and encamped on the north opposite a beautiful plain, which +extends as far back as the Osage river, and some miles up the Missouri. +In front of our encampment are the remains of an old village of the +Little Osage, situated at some distance from the river, and at the foot +of a small hill. About three miles above them, in view of our camp is +the situation of the old village of the Missouris after they fled from +the Sauks. The inroads of the same tribe compelled the Little Osage to +retire from the Missouri a few years ago, and establish themselves near +the Great Osages. The river, which is here about one mile wide, had +risen in the morning, but fell towards evening. Early this morning, June +16th, we joined the camp of our hunters, who had provided two deer and +two bear, and then passing an island and a prairie on the north covered +with a species of timothy, made our way through bad sandbars and a swift +current, to an encampment for the evening, on the north side, at ten +miles distance. The timber which we examined to day was not sufficiently +strong for oars; the musquitoes and ticks are exceedingly troublesome. +On the 17th, we set out early and having come to a convenient place at +one mile distance, for procuring timber and making oars, we occupied +ourselves in that way on this and the following day. The country on the +north of the river is rich and covered with timber; among which we +procured the ash for oars. At two miles it changes into extensive +prairies, and at seven or eight miles distance becomes higher and +waving. The prairie and high lands on the south commence more +immediately on the river; the whole is well watered and provided with +game, such as deer, elk, and bear. The hunters brought in a fat horse +which was probably lost by some war party--this being the crossing place +for the Sauks, Ayauways, and Sioux, in their excursions against the +Osage. + +June 19, the oars being finished, we proceeded under a gentle breeze by +two large and some smaller islands. The sandbars are numerous and so +bad, that at one place we were forced to clear away the driftwood in +order to pass: the water too was so rapid that we were under the +necessity of towing the boat for half a mile round a point of rocks on +the south side. We passed two creeks, one called Tiger creek on the +north, twenty-five yards wide at the extremity of a large island called +Panther Island; the other Tabo creek on the south, fifteen yards wide. +Along the shores are gooseberries and raspberries in great abundance. At +the distance of seventeen and a half miles we encamped on the south, +near a lake about two miles from the river and several in circumference; +and much frequented by deer and all kinds of fowls. On the north the +land is higher and better calculated for farms than that on the south, +which ascends more gradually, but is still rich and pleasant. The +musquitoes and other animals are so troublesome that musquitoe biers or +nets were distributed to the party. The next morning we passed a large +island, opposite to which on the north is a large and beautiful prairie, +called Sauk prairie, the land being fine and well timbered on both sides +the river. Pelicans were seen to day. We made six and three quarter +miles, and encamped at the lower point of a small island, along the +north side of which we proceeded the next day, June 21st, but not +without danger in consequence of the sands and the rapidity of the water +which rose three inches last night. Behind another island come in from +the south two creeks, called Eau, Beau, or Clear Water creeks; on the +north is a very remarkable bend, where the high lands approach the +river, and form an acute angle at the head of a large island produced by +a narrow channel through the point of the bend. We passed several other +islands, and encamped at seven and a half miles on the south. + +22d. The river rose during the night four inches. The water is very +rapid and crowded with concealed timber. We passed two large islands and +an extensive prairie on the south, beginning with a rich low land, and +rising to the distance of seventy or eighty feet of rolling clear +country. The thermometer at three o'clock P.M. was at 87°. After coming +ten and a half miles we encamped on the south, opposite a large creek +called Fire Prairie river. + +23d. The wind was against us this morning, and became so violent that we +made only three and a half miles, and were obliged to lie to during the +day at a small island. This is separated from the northern side by a +narrow channel which cannot be passed by boats, being choaked by trees +and drifted wood. Directly opposite on the south, is a high commanding +position, more than seventy feet above high water mark, and overlooking +the river which is here of but little width; this spot has many +advantages for a fort, and trading house with the Indians.[A] The river +fell eight inches last night. + +[Footnote A: The United States built in September, 1808, a factory and +fort at this spot, which is very convenient for trading with the Osages, +Ayauways and Kanzas.] + +The next day, 24th, we passed at eight miles distance, Hay Cabin creek +coming in from the south, about twenty yards wide, and so called from +camps of straw built on it; to the north are some rocks projecting into +the river, and a little beyond them a creek on the same side, called +Charaton Scarty; that is, Charaton like the Otter. We halted, after +making eleven and a half miles, the country on both sides being fine and +interspersed with prairies, in which we now see numerous herds of deer, +pasturing in the plains or feeding on the young willows of the river. + +25th. A thick fog detained us till eight o'clock, when we set sail, and +at three miles reached a bank of stone coal on the north, which appeared +to be very abundant: just below it is a creek called after the bank La +Charbonniere. Four miles further, and on the southern side, comes in a +small creek, called La Benite. The prairies here approach the river and +contain many fruits, such as plums, raspberries, wild apples, and nearer +the river vast quantities of mulberries. Our encampment was at thirteen +miles distance on an island to the north, opposite some hills higher +than usual, and almost one hundred and sixty or one hundred and eighty +feet. 26th. At one mile we passed at the end of a small island, Blue +Water creek, which is about thirty yards wide at its entrance from the +south.[A] Here the Missouri is confined within a narrow bed, and the +current still more so by counter currents or whirls on one side and a +high bank on the other. We passed a small island and a sandbar, where +our tow rope broke twice, and we rowed round with great exertions. We +saw a number of parroquets, and killed some deer; after nine and three +quarter miles we encamped at the upper point of the mouth of the river +Kanzas: here we remained two days, during which we made the necessary +observations, recruited the party, and repaired the boat. The river +Kanzas takes its rise in the plains between the Arkansaw and Platte +rivers, and pursues a course generally east till its junction with the +Missouri which is in latitude 38° 31' 13"; here it is three hundred and +forty and a quarter yards wide, though it is wider a short distance +above the mouth. The Missouri itself is about five hundred yards in +width; the point of union is low and subject to inundations for two +hundred and fifty yards, it then rises a little above high water mark, +and continues so as far back as the hills. On the south of the Kanzas +the hills or highlands come within one mile and a half of the river; on +the north of the Missouri they do not approach nearer than several +miles; but on all sides the country is fine. The comparative specific +gravities of the two rivers is, for the Missouri seventy-eight, the +Kanzas seventy-two degrees; the waters of the latter have a very +disagreeable taste, the former has risen during yesterday and to day +about two feet. On the banks of the Kanzas reside the Indians of the +same name, consisting of two villages, one at about twenty, the other +forty leagues from its mouth, and amounting to about three hundred men. +They once lived twenty-four leagues higher than the Kanzas, on the south +bank of the Missouri, and were then more numerous, but they have been +reduced and banished by the Sauks and Ayauways, who being better +supplied with arms have an advantage over the Kanzas, though the latter +are not less fierce or warlike than themselves. This nation is now +hunting in the plains for the buffaloe which our hunters have seen for +the first time. + +[Footnote A: A few miles up the Blue Water Creek are quarries of plaster +of paris, since worked and brought down to St. Louis.] + +On the 29th, we set out late in the afternoon, and having passed a +sandbar, near which the boat was almost lost, and a large island on the +north, we encamped at seven and a quarter miles on the same side in the +low lands, where the rushes are so thick that it is troublesome to walk +through them. Early the next morning, 30th, we reached, at five miles +distance, the mouth of a river coming in from the north, and called by +the French, Petite Riviere Platte, or Little Shallow river; it is about +sixty yards wide at its mouth. A few of the party who ascended informed +us, that the lands on both sides are good, and that there are several +falls well calculated for mills; the wind was from the south west, and +the weather oppressively warm, the thermometer standing at 96° above at +three o'clock P.M. One mile beyond this is a small creek on the south, +at five miles from which we encamped on the same side, opposite the +lower point of an island called Diamond island. The land on the north +between the Little Shallow river, and the Missouri is not good and +subject to overflow--on the south it is higher and better timbered. + +July 1st. We proceeded along the north side of Diamond island, where a +small creek called Biscuit creek empties itself. One and a half miles +above the island is a large sandbar in the middle of the river, beyond +which we stopped to refresh the men, who suffered very much from the +heat. Here we observed great quantities of grapes and raspberries. +Between one and two miles farther are three islands a creek on the +south known by the French name of Remore. The main current which is now +on the south side of the largest of the three islands, ran three years, +as we were told on the north, and there was then no appearance of the +two smaller islands. At the distance of four and a half miles we reached +the lower point of a cluster of small islands, two large and two small, +called Isles des Pares or Field Islands. Paccaun trees were this day +seen, and large quantities of deer and turkies on the banks. We had +advanced twelve miles. + +July 2d. We left our encampment, opposite to which is a high and +beautiful prairie on the southern side, and passed up the south of the +islands, which are high meadows, and a creek on the north called Pare +creek. Here for half an hour the river became covered with drift wood, +which rendered the navigation dangerous, and was probably caused by the +giving way of some sandbar, which had detained the wood. After making +five miles we passed a stream on the south called Turky creek, near a +sandbar, where we could scarcely stem the current with twenty oars, and +all the poles we had. On the north at about two miles further is a large +island called by the Indians, Wau-car-da-war-card-da, or the Bear +Medicine island. Here we landed and replaced our mast, which had been +broken three days ago, by running against a tree, overhanging the river. +Thence we proceeded, and after night stopped on the north side, above +the island, having come eleven and a half miles. Opposite our camp is a +valley, in which was situated an old village of the Kanzas, between two +high points of land, and on the bank of the river. About a mile in the +rear of the village was a small fort, built by the French on an +elevation. There are now no traces of the village, but the situation of +the fort may be recognized by some remains of chimnies, and the general +outline of the fortification, as well as by the fine spring which +supplied it with water. The party, who were stationed here, were +probably cut off by the Indians, as there are no accounts of them. + +July 3d. A gentle breeze from the south carried us eleven and a quarter +miles this day, past two islands, one a small willow island, the other +large, and called by the French Isle des Vaches, or Cow island. At the +head of this island, on the northern shore, is a large pond containing +beaver, and fowls of different kinds. After passing a bad sandbar, we +stopped on the south side at an old trading house, which is now +deserted, and half a mile beyond it encamped on the south. The land is +fine along the rivers, and some distance back. We observed the black +walnut and oak, among the timber; and the honey-suckle and the +buck's-eye, with the nuts on them. + +The morning of the 4th July was announced by the discharge of our gun. +At one mile we reached the mouth of a bayeau or creek, coming from a +large lake on the north side, which appears as if it had once been the +bed of the river, to which it runs parallel for several miles. The water +of it is clear and supplied by a small creek and several springs, and +the number of goslins which we saw on it, induced us to call it the +Gosling lake. It is about three quarters of a mile wide, and seven or +eight miles long. One of our men was bitten by a snake, but a poultice +of bark and gunpowder was sufficient to cure the wound. At ten and a +quarter miles we reached a creek on the south about twelve yards wide +and coming from an extensive prairie, which approached the borders of +the river. To this creek which had no name, we gave that of Fourth of +July creek; above it is a high mound, where three Indian paths centre, +and from which is a very extensive prospect. After fifteen miles sail we +came to on the north a little above a creek on the southern side, about +thirty yards wide, which we called Independence creek, in honour of the +day, which we could celebrate only by an evening gun, and an additional +gill of whiskey to the men. + +The next day, 5th, we crossed over to the south and came along the bank +of an extensive and beautiful prairie, interspersed with copses of +timber, and watered by Independence creek. On this bank formerly stood +the second village of the Kanzas; from the remains it must have been +once a large town. We passed several bad sandbars, and a small creek to +the south, which we called Yellow Ochre creek, from a bank of that +mineral a little above it. The river continues to fall. On the shores +are great quantities of summer and fall grapes, berries and wild roses. +Deer is not so abundant as usual, but there are numerous tracks of elk +around us. We encamped at ten miles distance on the south side under a +high bank, opposite to which was a low land covered with tall rushes, +and some timber. + +July 6. We set sail, and at one mile passed a sandbar, three miles +further an island, a prairie to the north, at the distance of four miles +called Reevey's prairie, after a man who was killed there; at which +place the river is confined to a very narrow channel, and by a sandbar +from the south. Four miles beyond is another sandbar terminated by a +small willow island, and forming a very considerable bend in the river +towards the north. The sand of the bar is light, intermixed with small +pebbles and some pit coal. The river falls slowly, and, owing either to +the muddiness of its water, or the extreme heat of the weather, the men +perspire profusely. We encamped on the south having made twelve miles. +The bird called whip-poor-will sat on the boat for some time. + +In the morning, July 7th, the rapidity of the water obliged us to draw +the boat along with ropes. At six and three quarter miles, we came to a +sandbar, at a point opposite a fine rich prairie on the north, called +St. Michael's. The prairies of this neighbourhood have the appearance of +distinct farms, divided by narrow strips of woodland, which follow the +borders of the small runs leading to the river. Above this, about a +mile, is a cliff of yellow clay on the north. At four o'clock we passed +a narrow part of the channel, where the water is confined within a bed +of two hundred yards wide, the current running directly against the +southern bank with no sand on the north to confine it or break its +force. We made fourteen miles, and halted on the north, after which we +had a violent gust about seven o'clock. One of the hunters saw in a pond +to the north which we passed yesterday a number of young swans. We saw a +large rat, and killed a wolf. Another of our men had a stroke of the +sun; he was bled, and took a preparation of nitre which relieved him +considerably. + +July 8. We set out early, and soon passed a small creek on the north, +which we called Ordway's creek, from our sergeant of that name who had +been sent on shore with the horses, and went up it. On the same side are +three small islands, one of which is the Little Nodawa, and a large +island called the Great Nodawa* extending more than five miles, and +containing seven or eight thousand acres of high good land, rarely +overflowed, and one of the largest islands of the Missouri. It is +separated from the northern shore by a small channel of from forty-five +to eighty yards wide, up which we passed, and found near the western +extremity of the island the mouth of the river Nodawa. This river +persues nearly a southern course, is navigable for boats to some +distance, and about seventy yards wide above the mouth, though not so +wide immediately there, as the mud from the Missouri contracts its +channel. At twelve and a quarter miles, we encamped on the north side, +near the head of Nodawa island, and opposite a smaller one in the middle +of the river. Five of the men were this day sick with violent headache. +The river continues to fall. + +July 9th. We passed the island opposite to which we last night encamped, +and saw near the head of it a creek falling in from a pond on the north, +to which we gave the name of Pike pond, from the numbers of that animal +which some of our party saw from the shore. The wind changed at eight +from N.E. to S.W. and brought rain. At six miles we passed the mouth of +Monter's creek on the south, and two miles above a few cabins, where one +of our party had encamped with some Frenchmen about two years ago. +Further on we passed an island on the north, opposite some cliffs on the +south side, near which Loup or Wolf river falls into the Missouri. This +river is about sixty yards wide, it heads near the same sources as the +Kanzas, and is navigable for boats, at some distance up. At fourteen +miles we encamped on the south side. + +Tuesday 10th. We proceeded on by a prairie on the upper side of Wolf +river, and at four miles passed a creek fifteen yards wide on the south, +called Pape's creek after a Spaniard of that name, who killed himself +there. At six miles we dined on an island called by the French Isle de +Salomon, or Solomon's island, opposite to which on the south is a +beautiful plain covered with grass, intermixed with wild rye and a kind +of wild potatoe. After making ten miles we stopped for the night on the +northern side, opposite a cliff of yellow clay. The river has neither +risen nor fallen to day. On the north the low land is very extensive, +and covered with vines; on the south, the hills approach nearer the +river, and back of them commence the plains. There are a great many +goslins along the banks. + +Wednesday 11th. After three miles sailing we came to a willow island on +the north side, behind which enters a creek called by the Indians +Tarkio. Above this creek on the north the low lands are subject to +overflow, and further back the undergrowth of vines particularly, is so +abundant that they can scarcely be passed. Three miles from the Tarkio +we encamped on a large sand island on the north, immediately opposite +the river Nemahaw. + +Thursday 12th. We remained here to day for the purpose of refreshing the +party, and making lunar observations. The Nemahaw empties itself into +the Missouri from the south, and is eighty yards wide at the confluence, +which is in lat. 39° 55' 56". Capt. Clarke ascended it in the perioque +about two miles to the mouth of a small creek on the lower side. On +going ashore he found in the level plain several artificial mounds or +graves, and on the adjoining hills others of a larger size. This +appearance indicates sufficiently the former population of this country; +the mounds being certainly intended as tombs; the Indians of the +Missouri still preserving the custom of interring the dead on high +ground. From the top of the highest mound a delightful prospect +presented itself--the level and extensive meadows watered by the +Nemahaw, and enlivened by the few trees and shrubs skirting the borders +of the river and its tributary streams--the lowland of the Missouri +covered with undulating grass, nearly five feet high, gradually rising +into a second plain, where rich weeds and flowers are interspersed with +copses of the Osage plum; further back are seen small groves of trees; +an abundance of grapes; the wild cherry of the Missouri, resembling our +own, but larger, and growing on a small bush; and the chokecherry, which +we observed for the first time. Some of the grapes gathered to-day are +nearly ripe. On the south of the Nemahaw, and about a quarter of a mile +from its mouth, is a cliff of freestone, in which are various +inscriptions and marks made by the Indians. The sand island where we are +encamped, is covered with the two species of willow, broad and narrow +leaf. + +July 13th. We proceeded at sunrise with a fair wind from the south, and +at two miles, passed the mouth of a small river on the north, called Big +Tarkio. A channel from the bed of the Missouri once ran into this river, +and formed an island called St. Joseph's, but the channel is now filled +up, and the island is added to the northern shore. Further on to the +south, is situated an extensive plain, covered with a grass resembling +timothy in its general appearance, except the seed which is like +flaxseed, and also a number of grapevines. At twelve miles, we passed an +island on the north, above which is a large sandbar covered with +willows: and at twenty and a half miles, stopped on a large sandbar, in +the middle of the river opposite a high handsome prairie, which extends +to the hills four or five miles distant, though near the bank the land +is low, and subject to be overflowed. This day was exceedingly fine and +pleasant, a storm of wind and rain from north-northeast, last night, +having cooled the air. + +July 14. We had some hard showers of rain before seven o'clock, when we +set out. We had just reached the end of the sand island, and seen the +opposite banks falling in, and so lined with timber that we could not +approach it without danger, when a sudden squall, from the northeast, +struck the boat on the starboard quarter, and would have certainly +dashed her to pieces on the sand island, if the party had not leaped +into the river, and with the aid of the anchor and cable kept her off: +the waves dashing over her for the space of forty minutes; after which, +the river became almost instantaneously calm and smooth. The two +periogues were ahead, in a situation nearly similar, but fortunately no +damage was done to the boats or the loading. The wind having shifted to +the southeast, we came at the distance of two miles, to an inland on the +north, where we dined. One mile above, on the same side of the river, is +a small factory, where a merchant of St. Louis traded with the Ottoes +and Pawnees two years ago. Near this is an extensive lowland, part of +which is overflowed occasionally, the rest is rich and well timbered. +The wind again changed to northwest by north. At seven and a half miles, +we reached lower point of a large island, on the north side. A small +distance above this point, is a river, called by the Maha Indians, +Nishnahbatona. This is a considerable creek, nearly as large as the Mine +river, and runs parallel to the Missouri the greater part of its course, +being fifty yards wide at the mouth. In the prairies or glades, we saw +wild-timothy, lambsquarter, cuckleberries, and on the edges of the +river, summer-grapes, plums, and gooseberries. We also saw to-day, for +the first time, some elk, at which some of the party shot, but at too +great a distance. We encamped on the north side of the island, a little +above Nishnahbatona, having made nine miles. The river fell a little. + +July 15. A thick fog prevented our leaving the encampment before seven. +At about four miles, we reached the extremity of the large island, and +crossing to the south, at the distance of seven miles, arrived at the +Little Nemaha, a small river from the south, forty yards wide a little +above its mouth, but contracting, as do almost all the waters emptying +into the Missouri, at its confluence. At nine and three quarter miles, +we encamped on a woody point, on the south. Along the southern bank, is +a rich lowland covered with peavine, and rich weeds, and watered by +small streams rising in the adjoining prairies. They too, are rich, and +though with abundance of grass, have no timber except what grows near +the water; interspersed through both are grapevines, plums of two kinds, +two species of wild-cherries, hazlenuts, and gooseberries. On the south +there is one unbroken plain; on the north the river is skirted with some +timber, behind which the plain extends four or five miles to the hills, +which seem to have little wood. + +July 16. We continued our route between a large island opposite to our +last night's encampment, and an extensive prairie on the south. About +six miles, we came to another large island, called Fairsun island, on +the same side; above which is a spot, where about twenty acres of the +hill have fallen into the river. Near this, is a cliff of sandstone for +two miles, which is much frequented by birds. At this place the river is +about one mile wide, but not deep; as the timber, or sawyers, may be +seen, scattered across the whole of its bottom. At twenty miles +distance, we saw on the south, an island called by the French, l'Isle +Chance, or Bald island, opposite to a large prairie, which we called +Baldpated prairie, from a ridge of naked hills which bound it, running +parallel with the river as far as we could see, and from three to six +miles distance. To the south the hills touch the river. We encamped a +quarter of a mile beyond this, in a point of woods on the north side. +The river continues to fall. + +Tuesday, July 17. We remained here this day, in order to make +observations and correct the chronometer, which ran down on Sunday. The +latitude we found to be 40° 27' 5"4/10. The observation of the time +proved our chronometer too slow, by 6' 51"6/10. The highlands bear from +our camp, north 25° west, up the river. Captain Lewis rode up the +country, and saw the Nishnahbatona, about ten or twelve miles from its +mouth, at a place not more than three hundred yards from the Missouri, +and a little above our camp. It then passes near the foot of the +Baldhills, and is at least six feet below the level of the Missouri. On +its banks are the oak, walnut, and mulberry. The common current of the +Missouri, taken with the log, is 50 fathoms in 40", at some places, and +even 20". + +Wednesday, July 18. The morning was fair, and a gentle wind from +southeast by south, carried us along between the prairie on the north, +and Bald island to the south: opposite the middle of which, the +Nishnahbatona approaches the nearest to the Missouri. The current here +ran fifty fathoms in 41". At thirteen and a half miles, we reached an +island on the north, near to which the banks overflow; while on the +south, the hills project over the river and form high cliffs. At one +point a part of the cliff, nearly three quarters of a mile in length, +and about two hundred feet in height, has fallen into the river. It is +composed chiefly of sandstone intermixed with an iron ore of bad +quality; near the bottom is a soft slatestone with pebbles. We passed +several bad sandbars in the course of the day, and made eighteen miles, +and encamped on the south, opposite to the lower point of the Oven +islands. The country around is generally divided into prairies, with +little timber, except on low points, islands, and near creeks, and that +consisting of cottonwood, mulberry, elm, and sycamore. The river falls +fast. An Indian dog came to the bank; he appeared to have been lost and +was nearly starved: we gave him some food, but he would not follow us. + +Thursday, July 19. The Oven islands are small, and two in number; one +near the south shore, the other in the middle of the river. Opposite to +them is the prairie, called Terrien's Oven, from a trader of that name. +At four and a half miles, we reached some high cliffs of a yellow earth, +on the south, near which are two beautiful runs of water, rising in the +adjacent prairies, and one of them with a deerlick, about two hundred +yards from its mouth. In this neighbourhood we observed some iron ore in +the bank. At two and a half miles above the runs, a large portion of the +hill, for nearly three quarters of a mile, has fallen into the river. We +encamped on the western extremity of an island, in the middle of the +river, having made ten and three quarter miles. The river falls a +little. The sandbars which we passed to-day, are more numerous, and the +rolling sands more frequent and dangerous, than any we have seen; these +obstacles increasing as we approach the river Platte. The Missouri here +is wider also than below, where the timber on the banks resists the +current; while here the prairies which approach, are more easily washed +and undermined. The hunters have brought for the last few days, no +quadruped, but deer: great quantities of young geese are seen to-day: +one of them brought calamus, which he had gathered opposite our +encampment, and a large quantity of sweet-flag. + +Friday, July 20. There was a heavy dew last night, and this morning was +foggy and cool. We passed at about three miles distance, a small willow +island to the north, and a creek on the south, about twenty-five yards +wide, called by the French, L'eau qui Pleure, or the Weeping Water, and +emptying itself just above a cliff of brown clay. Thence we made two and +a half miles to another island; three miles further to a third: six +miles beyond which is a fourth island; at the head of which we encamped +on the southern shore; in all eighteen miles. The party, who walked on +the shore to-day, found the plains to the south, rich, but much parched +with frequent fires, and with no timber, except the scattering trees +about the sources of the runs, which are numerous and fine. On the +north, is a similar prairie country. The river continues to fall. A +large yellow wolf was this day killed. For a month past the party have +been troubled with biles, and occasionally with the dysentery. These +biles were large tumours which broke out under the arms, on the legs, +and, generally, in the parts most exposed to action, which sometimes +became too painful to permit the men to work. After remaining some days, +they disappeared without any assistance, except a poultice of the bark +of the elm, or of Indian meal. This disorder, which we ascribe to the +muddiness of the river water, has not affected the general health of the +party, which is quite as good, if not better, than that of the same +number of men in any other situation. + +Saturday, July 21. We had a breeze from the southeast, by the aid of +which we passed, at about ten miles, a willow island on the south, near +high lands covered with timber, at the bank, and formed of limestone +with cemented shells: on the opposite side is a bad sandbar, and the +land near it is cut through at high water, by small channels forming a +number of islands. The wind lulled at seven o'clock, and we reached, in +the rain, the mouth of the great river Platte, at the distance of +fourteen miles. The highlands which had accompanied us on the south, for +the last eight or ten miles, stopped at about three quarters of a mile +from the entrance of the Platte. Captains Lewis and Clarke ascended the +river in a periogue, for about one mile, and found the current very +rapid; rolling over sands, and divided into a number of channels; none +of which are deeper than five or six feet. One of our Frenchmen, who +spent two winters on it, says that it spreads much more at some distance +from the mouth; that its depth is generally not more than five or six +feet; that there are many small islands scattered through it, and that +from its rapidity and the quantity of its sand, it cannot be navigated +by boats or periogues, though the Indians pass it in small flat canoes +made of hides. That the Saline or Salt river, which in some seasons is +too brackish to be drank, falls into it from the south about thirty +miles up, and a little above it Elkhorn river from the north, running +nearly parallel with the Missouri. The river is, in fact, much more +rapid than the Missouri, the bed of which it fills with moving sands, +and drives the current on the northern shore, on which it is constantly +encroaching. At its junction the Platte is about six hundred yards wide, +and the same number of miles from the Mississippi. With much difficulty +we worked round the sandbars near the mouth, and came to above the +point, having made fifteen miles. A number of wolves were seen and heard +around us in the evening. + +July 22. The next morning we set sail, and having found at the distance +of ten miles from the Platte, a high and shaded situation on the north, +we encamped there, intending to make the requisite observations, and to +send for the neighbouring tribes, for the purpose of making known the +recent change in the government, and the wish of the United States to +cultivate their friendship. + + + + + CHAP. II. + + Some account of the Pawnee Indians--Council held with the Otto and + Missouri Indians--Council held with another party of the + Ottoes--Death of sergeant Floyd--The party encamp near the mouth of + Whitestone river--The character of the Missouri, with the rivers + that enter it--The surrounding country--The various islands, bays, + creeks, &c. given in the course of the expedition. + + +Our camp is by observation in latitude 41° 3' 11". Immediately behind it +is a plain about five miles wide, one half covered with wood, the other +dry and elevated. The low grounds on the south near the junction of the +two rivers, are rich, but subject to be overflowed. Farther up, the +banks are higher, and opposite our camp the first hills approach the +river, and are covered with timber, such as oak, walnut, and elm. The +intermediate country is watered by the Papillon, or Butterfly creek, of +about eighteen yards wide, and three miles from the Platte; on the north +are high open plains and prairies, and at nine miles from the Platte, +the Musquitoe creek, and two or three small willow islands. We stayed +here several days, during which we dried our provisions, made new oars, +and prepared our despatches and maps of the country we had passed, for +the president of the United States, to whom we intend to send them by a +periogue from this place. The hunters have found game scarce in this +neighbourhood; they have seen deer, turkies, and grouse; we have also an +abundance of ripe grapes; and one of our men caught a white catfish, the +eyes of which were small, and its tail resembling that of a dolphin. The +present season is that in which the Indians go out into the prairies to +hunt the buffaloe; but as we discovered some hunter's tracks, and +observed the plains on fire in the direction of their villages, we hoped +that they might have returned to gather the green indian corn, and +therefore despatched two men to the Ottoes or Pawnee villages with a +present of tobacco, and an invitation to the chiefs to visit us. They +returned after two days absence. Their first course was through an open +prairie to the south, in which they crossed Butterfly creek. They then +reached a small beautiful river, called Come de Cerf, or Elkhorn river, +about one hundred yards wide, with clear water and a gravelly channel. +It empties a little below the Ottoe village into the Platte, which they +crossed, and arrived at the town about forty-five miles from our camp. +They found no Indians there, though they saw some fresh tracks of a +small party. The Ottoes were once a powerful nation, and lived about +twenty miles above the Platte, on the southern bank of the Missouri. +Being reduced, they migrated to the neighborhood of the Pawnees, under +whose protection they now live. Their village is on the south side of +the Platte, about thirty miles from its mouth; and their number is two +hundred men, including about thirty families of Missouri Indians, who +are incorporated with them. Five leagues above them, on the same side of +the river, resides the nation of Pawnees. This people were among the +most numerous of the Missouri Indians, but have gradually been dispersed +and broken, and even since the year 1797, have undergone some sensible +changes. They now consist of four bands; the first is the one just +mentioned, of about five hundred men, to whom of late years have been +added the second band, who are called republican Pawnees, from their +having lived on the republican branch of the river Kanzas, whence they +emigrated to join the principal band of Pawnees: the republican Pawnees +amount to nearly two hundred and fifty men. The third, are the Pawnees +Loups, or Wolf Pawnees, who reside on the Wolf fork of the Platte, about +ninety miles from the principal Pawnees, and number two hundred and +eighty men. The fourth band originally resided on the Kanzas and +Arkansaw, but in their wars with the Osages, they were so often +defeated, that they at last retired to their present position on the Red +river, where they form a tribe of four hundred men. All these tribes +live in villages, and raise corn; but during the intervals of culture +rove in the plains in quest of buffaloe. + +Beyond them on the river, and westward of the Black mountains, are the +Kaninaviesch, consisting of about four hundred men. They are supposed to +have emigrated originally from the Pawnees nation; but they have +degenerated from the improvements of the parent tribe, and no longer +live in villages, but rove through the plains. + +Still further to the westward, are several tribes, who wander and hunt +on the sources of the river Platte, and thence to Rock Mountain. These +tribes, of which little more is known than the names and the population, +are first, the Staitan, or Kite Indians, a small tribe of one hundred +men. They have acquired the name of Kites, from their flying; that is, +their being always on horseback; and the smallness of their numbers is +to be attributed to their extreme ferocity; they are the most warlike of +all the western Indians; they never yield in battle; they never spare +their enemies; and the retaliation of this barbarity has almost +extinguished the nation. Then come the Wetapahato, and Kiawa tribes, +associated together, and amounting to two hundred men; the Castahana, of +three hundred men, to which are to be added the Cataka of seventy-five +men, and the Dotami. These wandering tribes, are conjectured to be the +remnants of the Great Padouca nation, who occupied the country between +the upper parts of the river Platte, and the river Kanzas. They were +visited by Bourgemont, in 1724, and then lived on the Kanzas river. The +seats, which he describes as their residence, are now occupied by the +Kanzas nation; and of the Padoucas, there does not now exist even the +name. + +July 27. Having completed the object of our stay, we set sail, with a +pleasant breeze from the N.W. The two horses swam over to the southern +shore, along which we went, passing by an island, at three and a half +miles, formed by a pond, fed by springs: three miles further is a large +sand island, in the middle of the river; the land on the south being +high, and covered with timber; that on the north, a high prairie. At ten +and a half miles from our encampment, we saw and examined a curious +collection of graves or mounds, on the south side of the river. Not far +from a low piece of land and a pond, is a tract of about two hundred +acres in circumference, which is covered with mounds of different +heights, shapes, and sizes: some of sand, and some of both earth and +sand; the largest being nearest the river. These mounds indicate the +position of the ancient village of the Ottoes, before they retired to +the protection of the Pawnees. After making fifteen miles, we encamped +on the south, on the bank of a high handsome prairie, with lofty +cottonwood in groves, near the river. + +July 28. At one mile, this morning we reached a bluff, on the north, +being the first highlands, which approach the river on that side, since +we left the Nadawa. Above this, is an island and a creek, about fifteen +yards wide, which, as it has no name, we called Indian Knob creek, from +a number of round knobs bare of timber, on the highlands, to the north. +A little below the bluff, on the north, is the spot where the Ayauway +Indians formerly lived. They were a branch of the Ottoes, and emigrated +from this place to the river Desmoines. At ten and three quarter miles, +we encamped on the north, opposite an island, in the middle of the +river. The land, generally, on the north, consists of high prairie and +hills, with timber: on the south, low and covered with cottonwood. Our +hunter brought to us in the evening, a Missouri Indian, whom he had +found, with two others, dressing an elk; they were perfectly friendly, +gave him some of the meat, and one of them agreed to accompany him to +the boat. He is one of the few remaining Missouris, who live with the +Ottoes: he belongs to a small party, whose camp is four miles from the +river; and he says, that the body of the nation is now hunting buffaloe +in the plains: he appeared quite sprightly, and his language resembled +that of the Osage, particularly in his calling a chief, inca. We sent +him back with one of our party next morning, + +Sunday, July 29, with an invitation to the Indians, to meet us above on +the river, and then proceeded. We soon came to a northern bend in the +river, which runs within twenty yards of Indian Knob creek, the water of +which is five feet higher than that of the Missouri. In less than two +miles, we passed Boyer's creek on the north, of twenty-five yards width. +We stopped to dine under a shade, near the highland on the south, and +caught several large catfish, one of them nearly white, and all very +fat. Above this highland, we observed the traces of a great hurricane, +which passed the river obliquely from N.W. to S.E. and tore up large +trees, some of which perfectly sound, and four feet in diameter, were +snapped off near the ground. We made ten miles to a wood on the north, +where we encamped. The Missouri is much more crooked, since we passed +the river Platte, though generally speaking, not so rapid; more of +prairie, with less timber, and cottonwood in the low grounds, and oak, +black walnut, hickory, and elm. + +July 30. We went early in the morning, three and a quarter miles, and +encamped on the south, in order to wait for the Ottoes. The land here +consists of a plain, above the highwater level, the soil of which is +fertile, and covered with a grass from five to eight feet high, +interspersed with copses of large plums, and a currant, like those of +the United States. It also furnishes two species of honeysuckle; one +growing to a kind of shrub, common about Harrodsburgh (Kentucky), the +other is not so high: the flowers grow in clusters, are short, and of a +light pink colour; the leaves too, are distinct, and do not surround the +stalk, as do those of the common honeysuckle of the United States. Back +of this plain, is a woody ridge about seventy feet above it, at the end +of which we formed our camp. This ridge separates the lower from a +higher prairie, of a good quality, with grass, of ten or twelve inches +in height, and extending back about a mile, to another elevation of +eighty or ninety feet, beyond which is one continued plain. Near our +camp, we enjoy from the bluffs a most beautiful view of the river, and +the adjoining country. At a distance, varying from four to ten miles, +and of a height between seventy and three hundred feet, two parallel +ranges of highland affords a passage to the Missouri, which enriches the +low grounds between them. In its winding course, it nourishes the willow +islands, the scattered cottonwood, elm, sycamore, lynn, and ash, and the +groves are interspersed with hickory, walnut, coffeenut, and oak. + +July 31. The meridian altitude of this day made the latitude of our camp +41° 18' 1-4/10". The hunters supplied us with deer, turkies, geese, and +beaver; one of the last was caught alive, and in a very short time was +perfectly tamed. Catfish are very abundant in the river, and we have +also seen a buffaloefish. One our men brought in yesterday an animal +called, by the Pawnees, chocartoosh, and, by the French, blaireau, or +badger. The evening is cool, yet the musquitoes are still very +troublesome. + +We waited with much anxiety the return of our messenger to the Ottoes. +The men whom we despatched to our last encampment, returned without +having seen any appearance of its having been visited. Our horses too +had strayed; but we were so fortunate as to recover them at the distance +of twelve miles. Our apprehensions were at length relieved by the +arrival of a party of about fourteen Ottoe and Missouri Indians, who +came at sunset, on the second of August, accompanied by a Frenchman, who +resided among them, and interpreted for us. Captains Lewis and Clarke +went out to meet them, and told them that we would hold a council in the +morning. In the mean time we sent them some roasted meat, pork, flour, +and meal; in return for which they made us a present of watermelons. We +learnt that our man Liberte had set out from their camp a day before +them: we were in hopes that he had fatigued his horse, or lost himself +in the woods, and would soon return; but we never saw him again. + +August 8. The next morning the Indians, with their six chiefs, were all +assembled under an awning, formed with the mainsail, in presence of all +our party, paraded for the occasion. A speech was then made, announcing +to them the change in the government, our promises of protection, and +advice as to their future conduct. All the six chiefs replied to our +speech, each in his turn, according to rank: they expressed their joy at +the change in the government; their hopes that we would recommend them +to their great father (the president), that they might obtain trade and +necessaries; they wanted arms as well for hunting as for defence, and +asked our mediation between them and the Mahas, with whom they are now +at war. We promised to do so, and wished some of them to accompany us to +that nation, which they declined, for fear of being killed by them. We +then proceeded to distribute our presents. The grand chief of the nation +not being of the party, we sent him a flag, a medal, and some ornaments +for clothing. To the six chiefs who were present, we gave a medal of the +second grade to one Ottoe chief, and one Missouri chief; a medal of the +third grade to two inferior chiefs of each nation: the customary mode of +recognizing a chief, being to place a medal round his neck, which is +considered among his tribe as a proof of his consideration abroad. Each +of these medals was accompanied by a present of paint, garters, and +cloth ornaments of dress; and to this we added a cannister of powder, a +bottle of whiskey, and a few presents to the whole, which appeared to +make them perfectly satisfied. The airgun too was fired, and astonished +them greatly. The absent grand chief was an Ottoe named Weahrushhah, +which, in English, degenerates into Little Thief. The two principal +chieftains present were, Shongotongo, or Big Horse; and Wethea, or +Hospitality; also Shosgusean, or White Horse, an Ottoe; the first an +Ottoe, the second a Missouri. The incidents just related, induced us to +give to this place the name of the Council-bluff; the situation of it +is exceedingly favourable for a fort and trading factory, as the soil +is well calculated for bricks, and there is an abundance of wood in the +neighbourhood, and the air being pure and healthy. It is also central to +the chief resorts of the Indians: one day's journey to the Ottoes; one +and a half to the great Pawnees; two days from the Mahas; two and a +quarter from the Pawnees Loups village; convenient to the hunting +grounds of the Sioux; and twenty-five days journey to Santa Fee. + +The ceremonies of the council being concluded, we set sail in the +afternoon, and encamped at the distance of five miles, on the south +side, where we found the musquitoes very troublesome. + +August 4. A violent wind, accompanied by rain, purified and cooled the +atmosphere last night; we proceeded early, and reached a very narrow +part of the river, where the channel is confined within a space of two +hundred yards, by a sand point on the north, and a bend on the south; +the banks in the neighbourhood washing away, the trees falling in, and +the channel filled with buried logs. Above this is a trading house, on +the south, where one of our party passed two years, trading with the +Mahas. At nearly four miles, is a creek on the south, emptying opposite +a large island of sand; between this creek and our last night's +encampment, the river has changed its bed, and encroached on the +southern shore. About two miles further, is another creek on the south, +which, like the former, is the outlet of three ponds, communicating with +each other, and forming a small lake, which is fed by streams from the +highlands. At fifteen miles, we encamped on the south. The hills on both +sides of the river are nearly twelve or fifteen miles from each other; +those of the north containing some timber, while the hills of south are +without any covering, except some scattering wood in the ravines, and +near where the creeks pass into the hills; rich plains and prairies +occupying the intermediate space, and partially covered, near the water, +with cottonwood. There has been a great deal of pumice stone on shore +to-day. + +August 5th. We set out early, and, by means of our oars, made twenty and +a half miles, though the river was crowded with sandbars. On both sides +the prairies extend along the river; the banks being covered with great +quantities of grapes, of which three different species are now ripe; one +large and resembling the purple grape. We had some rain this morning, +attended by high wind; but generally speaking, have remarked that +thunder storms are less frequent than in the Atlantic states, at this +season. Snakes too are less frequent, though we killed one to-day of the +shape and size of the rattlesnake, but of a lighter colour. We fixed our +camp on the north side. In the evening, captain Clarke, in pursuing some +game, in an eastern direction, found himself at the distance of three +hundred and seventy yards from the camp, at a point of the river whence +we had come twelve miles. When the water is high, this peninsula is +overflowed, and judging from the customary and notorious changes in the +river, a few years will be sufficient to force the main current of the +river across, and leave the great bend dry. The whole lowland between +the parallel range of hills seems formed of mud or ooze of the river, at +some former period, mixed with sand and clay. The sand of the +neighbouring banks accumulates with the aid of that brought down the +stream, and forms sandbars, projecting into the river; these drive the +channel to the opposite banks, the loose texture of which it undermines, +and at length deserts its ancient bed for a new and shorter passage; it +is thus that the banks of the Missouri are constantly falling, and the +river changing its bed. + +August 6. In the morning, after a violent storm of wind and rain from +N.W. we passed a large island to the north. In the channel separating it +from the shore, a creek called Soldier's river enters; the island kept +it from our view, but one of our men who had seen it, represents it as +about forty yards wide at its mouth. At five miles, we came to a bend +of the river towards the north, a sandbar, running in from the south, +had turned its course so as to leave the old channel quite dry. We again +saw the same appearance at our encampment, twenty and a half miles +distant on the north side. Here the channel of the river had encroached +south, and the old bed was without water, except a few ponds. The +sandbars are still very numerous. + +August 7. We had another storm from the N.W. in the course of the last +evening; in the morning we proceeded, having the wind from the north, +and encamped on the northern shore, having rowed seventeen miles. The +river is here encumbered with sandbars, but no islands, except two small +ones, called Detachment islands, and formed on the south side by a small +stream. + +We despatched four men back to the Ottoes village in quest of our man, +Liberte, and to apprehend one of the soldiers, who left us on the 4th, +under pretence of recovering a knife which he had dropped a short +distance behind, and who we fear has deserted. We also sent small +presents to the Ottoes and Missouris, and requested that they would join +us at the Maha village, where a peace might be concluded between them. + +August 8. At two miles distance, this morning we came to a part of the +river, where there was concealed timber difficult to pass. The wind was +from the N.W. and we proceeded in safety. At six miles, a river empties +on the northern side, called by the Sioux Indians, Eaneahwadepon, or +Stone river; and by the French, Petite Riviere des Sioux, or Little +Sioux river. At its confluence it is eighty yards wide. Our interpreter, +Mr. Durion, who has been to the sources of it, and knows the adjoining +country, says that it rises within about nine miles of the river +Desmoines; that within fifteen leagues of that river it passes through a +large lake nearly sixty miles in circumference, and divided into two +parts by rocks which approach each other very closely: its width is +various: it contains many islands, and is known by the name of the Lac +d'Esprit: it is near the Dogplains, and within four days march of the +Mahas. The country watered by it, is open and undulating, and may be +visited in boats up the river for some distance. The Desmoines, he adds, +is about eighty yards wide where the Little Sioux river approaches it: +it is shoaly, and one of its principal branches is called Cat river. Two +miles beyond this river is a long island which we called Pelican island, +from the numbers of that animal which were feeding on it: one of these +being killed, we poured into his bag five gallons of water. An elk, too, +was shot, and we had again to remark that snakes are rare in this part +of the Missouri. A meridian altitude near the Little Sioux river made +the latitude 41° 42' 34". We encamped on the north, having come sixteen +miles. + +August 9. A thick fog detained us until past seven o'clock, after which +we proceeded with a gentle breeze from the southeast. After passing two +sandbars we reached, at seven and a half miles, a point of highland on +the left, near which the river has forced itself a channel across a +peninsula, leaving on the right a circuit of twelve or eighteen miles, +which is now recognised by the ponds and islands it contains. At +seventeen and a half miles, we reached a point on the north, where we +encamped. The hills are at a great distance from the river for the last +several days; the land, on both sides low, and covered with cottonwood +and abundance of grape vines. An elk was seen to-day, a turkey also +shot, and near our camp is a beaver den: the musquitoes have been more +troublesome than ever for the two last days. + +August 10. At two and a half miles, we came to a place, called Coupee a +Jacques, where the river has found a new bed, and abridged a circuit of +several miles: at twelve and a half miles, a cliff of yellow stone on +the left. This is the first highland near the river above the +Council-bluff. After passing a number of sandbars we reached a willow +island at the distance of twenty-two and a half miles, which we were +enabled to do with our oars and a wind from the S.W. and encamped on the +north side. + +August 11. After a violent wind from the N.W. attended with rain, we +sailed along the right of the island. At nearly five miles, we halted on +the south side for the purpose of examining a spot where one of the +great chiefs of the Mahas named Blackbird, who died about four years ago +of the smallpox, was buried. A hill of yellow soft sandstone rises from +the river in bluffs of various heights, till it ends in a knoll about +three hundred feet above the water; on the top of this a mound, of +twelve feet diameter at the base and six feet high, is raised over the +body of the deceased king; a pole of about eight feet high is fixed in +the centre; on which we placed a white flag, bordered with red, blue, +and white. The Blackbird seems to have been a personage of great +consideration; for ever since his death he is supplied with provisions, +from time to time, by the superstitious regard of the Mahas. We +descended to the river and passed a small creek on the south, called, by +the Mahas, Waucandipeeche, (Great Spirit is bad.) Near this creek and +the adjoining hills the Mahas had a village, and lost four hundred of +their nation by the dreadful malady which destroyed the Blackbird. The +meridian altitude made the latitude 42° 1' 3-8/10" north. We encamped, +at seventeen miles distance, on the north side in a bend of the river. +During our day's course it has been crooked; we observed a number of +places in it where the old channel is filled up, or gradually becoming +covered with willow and cottonwood; great numbers of herons are observed +to-day, and the mosquitoes annoy us very much. + +August 12. A gentle breeze from the south, carried us along about ten +miles, when we stopped to take meridian altitude, and sent a man across +to our place of observation: yesterday he stepped nine hundred and +seventy-four yards, and the distance we had come round, was eighteen +miles and three quarters. The river is wider and shallower than usual. +Four miles beyond this bend a bluff begins, and continues several +miles; on the south it rises from the water at different heights, from +twenty to one hundred and fifty feet, and higher as it recedes on the +river: it consists of yellow and brown clay, with soft sandstone imbeded +in it, and is covered with timber, among which may be observed some red +cedar: the lands on the opposite side are low and subject to inundation, +but contain willows, cottonwood, and many grapes. A prairie-wolf came +near the bank and barked at us; we attempted unsuccessfully to take him. +This part of the river abounds in beaver. We encamped on a sand-island +in a bend to the north, having made twenty miles and a quarter. + +August 13. Set out at daylight with a breeze from the southeast, and +passed several sandbars. Between ten and eleven miles, we came to a spot +on the south, where a Mr. Mackay had a trading establishment in the year +1795 and 1796, which he called Fort Charles. At fourteen miles, we +reached a creek on the south, on which the Mahas reside, and at +seventeen miles and a quarter, formed a camp on a sandbar, to the south +side of the river, opposite the lower point of a large island. From this +place sergeant Ordway and four men were detached to the Maha village +with a flag and a present, in order to induce them to come and hold a +council with us. They returned at twelve o'clock the next day, August +14. After crossing a prairie covered with high grass, they reached the +Maha creek, along which they proceeded to its three forks, which join +near the village: they crossed the north branch and went along the +south; the walk was very fatiguing, as they were forced to break their +way through grass, sunflowers and thistles, all above ten feet high, and +interspersed with wild pea. Five miles from our camp they reached the +position of the ancient Maha village: it had once consisted of three +hundred cabins, but was burnt about four years ago, soon after the +smallpox had destroyed four hundred men, and a proportion of women and +children. On a hill, in the rear of the village, are the graves of the +nation; to the south of which runs the fork of the Maha creek: this they +crossed where it was about ten yards wide, and followed its course to +the Missouri, passing along a ridge of hill for one and a half mile, and +a long pond between that and the Missouri: they then recrossed the Maha +creek, and arrived at the camp, having seen no tracks of Indians nor any +sign of recent cultivation. + +In the morning 15th, some men were sent to examine the cause of a large +smoke from the northeast, and which seemed to indicate that some Indians +were near; but they found that a small party, who had lately passed that +way, had left some trees burning, and that the wind from that quarter +blew the smoke directly towards us. Our camp lies about three miles +northeast from the old Maha village, and is in latitude 42° 15' 41". The +accounts we have had of the effects of the smallpox on that nation are +most distressing; it is not known in what way it was first communicated +to them, though probably by some war party. They had been a military and +powerful people; but when these warriors saw their strength wasting +before a malady which they could not resist, their phrenzy was extreme; +they burnt their village, and many of them put to death their wives and +children, to save them from so cruel an affliction, and that all might +go together to some better country. + +On the 16th, we still waited for the Indians: a party had gone out +yesterday to the Maha creek, which was damned up by the beaver between +the camp and the village: a second went to-day. They made a kind of drag +with small willows and bark, and swept the creek: the first company +brought three hundred and eighteen, the second upwards of eight hundred, +consisting of pike, bass, fish resembling salmon, trout, redhorse, +buffaloe, one rockfish, one flatback, perch, catfish, a small species of +perch called, on the Ohio, silverfish, a shrimp of the same size, shape +and flavour of those about Neworleans, and the lower part of the +Mississippi. We also found very fat muscles; and on the river as well as +the creek, are different kinds of ducks and plover. The wind, which in +the morning had been from the northwest, shifted round in the evening to +the southeast, and as usual we had a breeze, which cooled the air and +relieve us from the musquitoes, who generally give us great trouble. + +Friday 17. The wind continued from the southeast, and the morning was +fair. We observe about us a grass resembling wheat, except that the +grain is like rye, also some similar to both rye and barley, and a kind +of timothy, the seed of which branches from the main stock, and is more +like a flaxseed than a timothy. In the evening, one of the party sent to +the Ottoes, returned with the information that the rest were coming on +with the deserter: they had also caught Liberte, but, by a trick, he +made his escape: they were bringing three of the chiefs in order to +engage our assistance in making peace with the Mahas. This nation having +left their village, that desirable purpose cannot be effected; but in +order to bring in any neighbouring tribes, we set the surrounding +prairies on fire. This is the customary signal made by traders to +apprize the Indians of their arrival: it is also used between different +nations as an indication of any event which they have previously agreed +to announce in that way; and as soon as it is seen collects the +neighbouring tribes, unless they apprehend that it is made by their +enemies. + +August 18. In the afternoon the party arrived with the Indians, +consisting of the Little Thief and the Big Horse, whom we had seen on +the third, together with six other chiefs, and a French interpreter. We +met them under a shade, and after they had finished a repast with which +we supplied them, we inquired into the origin of the war between them +and the Mahas, which they related with great frankness. It seems that +two of the Missouris went to the Mahas to steal horses, but were +detected and killed; the Ottoes and Missouris thought themselves bound +to avenge their companions, and the whole nations were at last obliged +to share in the dispute; they are also in fear of a war from the +Pawnees, whose village they entered this summer, while the inhabitants +were hunting, and stole their corn. This ingenuous confession did not +make us the less desirous of negotiating a peace for them; but no +Indians have as yet been attracted by our fire. The evening was closed +by a dance; and the next day, + +August 19, the chiefs and warriors being assembled at ten o'clock, we +explained the speech we had already sent from the Council-bluffs, and +renewed our advice. They all replied in turn, and the presents were then +distributed: we exchanged the small medal we had formerly given to the +Big Horse for one of the same size with that of Little Thief: we also +gave a small medal to a third chief, and a kind of certificate or letter +of acknowledgment to five of the warriors expressive of our favour and +their good intentions: one of them dissatisfied, returned us the +certificate; but the chief, fearful of our being offended, begged that +it might be restored to him; this we declined, and rebuked them severely +for having in view mere traffic instead of peace with their neighbours. +This displeased them at first; but they at length all petitioned that it +should be given to the warrior, who then came forward and made an +apology to us; we then delivered it to the chief to be given to the most +worthy, and he bestowed it on the same warrior, whose name was Great +Blue Eyes. After a more substantial present of small articles and +tobacco, the council was ended with a dram to the Indians. In the +evening we exhibited different objects of curiosity, and particularly +the airgun, which gave them great surprise. Those people are almost +naked, having no covering, except a sort of breechcloth round the +middle, with a loose blanket or buffaloe robe painted, thrown over them. +The names of these warriors, besides those already mentioned were +Karkapaha, (or Crow's head) and Nenasawa (or Black Cat) Missouris; and +Sananona (or Iron Eyes) Neswaunja (or Big Ox) Stageaunja (or Big Blue +Eyes) and Wasashaco (or Brave Man) all Ottoes. These two tribes speak +very nearly the same language: they all begged us to give them whiskey. + +The next morning, August 20, the Indians mounted their horses and left +us, having received a canister of whiskey at parting. We then set sail, +and after passing two islands on the north, came to on that side under +some bluffs; the first near the river since we left the Ayauwa village. +Here we had the misfortune to lose one of our sergeants, Charles Floyd. +He was yesterday seized with a bilious cholic, and all our care and +attention were ineffectual to relieve him: a little before his death, he +said to captain Clark, "I am going to leave you," his strength failed +him as he added "I want you to write me a letter," but he died with a +composure which justified the high opinion we had formed of his firmness +and good conduct. He was buried on the top of the bluff with the honours +due to a brave soldier; and the place of his interment marked by a cedar +post, on which his name and the day of his death were inscribed. About a +mile beyond this place, to which we gave his name, is a small river +about thirty yards wide, on the north, which we called Floyd's river, +where we encamped. We had a breeze from the southeast, and made thirteen +miles. + +August 21. The same breeze from the southeast carried us by a small +willow creek on the north, about one mile and a half above Floyd's +river. Here began a range of bluffs which continued till near the mouth +of the great Sioux river, three miles beyond Floyd's. This river comes +in from the north, and is about one hundred and ten yards wide. Mr. +Durion, our Sioux interpreter, who is well acquainted with it, says that +it is navigable upwards of two hundred miles to the falls, and even +beyond them; that its sources are near those of the St. Peters. He also +says, that below the falls a creek falls in from the eastward, after +passing through cliffs of red rock: of this the Indians make their +pipes; and the necessity of procuring that article, has introduced a +sort of law of nations, by which the banks of the creek are sacred, and +even tribes at war meet without hostility at these quarries, which +possess a right of asylum. Thus we find even among savages certain +principles deemed sacred, by which the rigours of their merciless system +of warfare are mitigated. A sense of common danger, where stronger ties +are wanting, gives all the binding force of more solemn obligations. The +importance of preserving the known and settled rules of warfare among +civilized nations, in all their integrity, becomes strikingly evident; +since even savages, with their few precarious wants, cannot exist in a +state of peace or war where this faith is once violated. The wind became +southerly, and blew with such violence that we took a reef in our sail: +it also blew the sand from the bars in such quantities, that we could +not see the channel at any distance ahead. At four and a quarter miles, +we came to two willow islands, beyond which are several sandbars; and at +twelve miles, a spot where the Mahas once had a village, now no longer +existing. We again passed a number of sandbars, and encamped on the +south; having come twenty-four and three quarter miles. The country +through which we passed has the same uniform appearance ever since we +left the river Platte: rich low-grounds near the river, succeeded by +undulating prairies, with timber near the waters. Some wolves were seen +to-day on the sandbeaches to the south; we also procured an excellent +fruit, resembling a red currant, growing on a shrub like the privy, and +about the height of a wild plum. + +August 22. About three miles distance, we joined the men who had been +sent from the Maha village with our horses, and who brought us two deer. +The bluffs or hills which reach the river at this place, on the south, +contain allum, copperas, cobalt which had the appearance of soft +isinglass, pyrites, and sandstone, the two first very pure. Above this +bluff comes in a small creek on the south, which we call Rologe creek. +Seven miles above is another cliff, on the same side, of allum rock, of +a dark brown colour, containing in its crevices great quantities of +cobalt, cemented shells, and red earth. From this the river bends to the +eastward, and approaches the Sioux river within three or four miles. We +sailed the greater part of the day, and made nineteen miles to our camp +on the north side. The sandbars are as usual numerous: there are also +considerable traces of elk; but none are yet seen. Captain Lewis in +proving the quality of some of the substances in the first cliff, was +considerably injured by the fumes and taste of the cobalt, and took some +strong medicine to relieve him from its effects. The appearance of these +mineral substances enable us to account for disorders of the stomach, +with which the party had been affected since they left the river Sioux. +We had been in the habit of dipping up the water of the river +inadvertently and making use of it, till, on examination, the sickness +was thought to proceed from a scum covering the surface of the water +along the southern shore, and which, as we now discovered, proceeded +from these bluffs. The men had been ordered, before we reached the +bluffs, to agitate the water, so as to disperse the scum, and take the +water, not at the surface, but at some depth. The consequence was, that +these disorders ceased: the biles too which had afflicted the men, were +not observed beyond the Sioux river. In order to supply the place of +sergeant Floyd, we permitted the men to name three persons, and Patrick +Gass having the greatest number of votes was made a sergeant. + +August 23. We set out early, and at four miles came to a small run +between cliffs of yellow and blue earth: the wind, however, soon +changed, and blew so hard from the west, that we proceeded very slowly; +the fine sand from the bar being driven in such clouds, that we could +scarcely see. Three and a quarter miles beyond this run, we came to a +willow island, and a sand island opposite, and encamped on the south +side, at ten and a quarter miles. On the north side is an extensive and +delightful prairie, which we called Buffaloe prairie, from our having +here killed the first buffaloe. Two elk swam the river to-day and were +fired at, but escaped: a deer was killed from the boat; one beaver was +killed; and several prairie wolves were seen. + +August 24. It began to rain last night, and continued this morning: we +proceeded, however, two and a quarter miles, to the commencement of a +bluff of blue clay, about one hundred and eighty, or one hundred and +ninety feet on the south side: it seems to have been lately on fire; and +even now the ground is so warm that we cannot keep our hands in it at +any depth: there are strong appearances of coal, and also great +quantities of cobalt, or a crystalized substance resembling it. There is +a fruit now ripe which looks like a currant, except that it is double +the size, and grows on a bush like a privy, the size of a damson, and of +a delicious flavour; its Indian name means rabbit-berries. We then +passed, at the distance of about seven miles, the mouth of a creek on +the north side, called by an Indian name, meaning Whitestone river. The +beautiful prairie of yesterday, has changed into one of greater height, +and very smooth and extensive. We encamped on the south side, at ten and +a quarter miles, and found ourselves much annoyed by the musquitoes. + + + + + CHAP. III. + + Whimsical instance of superstition of the Sioux Indians--Council + held with the Sioux--Character of that tribe, their manners, &c.--A + ridiculous instance of their heroism--Ancient + fortifications--Quieurre river described--Vast herds of + Buffaloe--Account of the Petit Chien or Little Dog--Narrow escape + of George Shannon--Description of Whiteriver--Surprising fleetness + of the Antelope--Pass the river of the Sioux--Description of the + Grand Le Tour, or Great Bend--Encamp on the Teton river. + + +August 25. Captains Lewis and Clarke, with ten men, went to see an +object deemed very extraordinary among all the neighbouring Indians. +They dropped down to the mouth of Whitestone river, about thirty yards +wide, where they left the boat, and at the distance of two hundred +yards, ascended a rising ground, from which a plain extended itself as +far as the eye could discern. After walking four miles, they crossed the +creek where it is twenty-three yards wide, and waters an extensive +valley. The heat was so oppressive that we were obliged to send back our +dog to the creek, as he was unable to bear the fatigue; and it was not +till after four hours march that we reached the object of our visit. +This was a large mound in the midst of the plain about N. 20° W. from +the month of Whitestone river, from which it is nine miles distant. The +base of the mound is a regular parallelogram, the longest side being +about three hundred yards, the shorter sixty or seventy: from the +longest side it rises with a steep ascent from the north and south to +the height of sixty-five or seventy feet, leaving on the top a level +plain of twelve feet in breadth and ninety in length. The north and +south extremities are connected by two oval borders which serve as new +bases, and divide the whole side into three steep but regular gradations +from the plain. The only thing characteristic in this hill is its +extreme symmetry, and this, together with its being totally detached +from the other hills which are at the distance of eight or nine miles, +would induce a belief that it was artificial; but, as the earth and the +loose pebbles which compose it, are arranged exactly like the steep +grounds on the borders of the creek, we concluded from this similarity +of texture that it might be natural. But the Indians have made it a +great article of their superstition: it is called the mountain of Little +People, or Little Spirits, and they believe that it is the abode of +little devils, in the human form, of about eighteen inches high and with +remarkably large heads; they are armed with sharp arrows, with which +they are very skilful, and are always on the watch to kill those who +should have the hardihood to approach their residence. The tradition is, +that many have suffered from these little evil spirits, and among +others, three Maha Indians fell a sacrifice to them a few years since. +This has inspired all the neighbouring nations, Sioux, Mahas, and +Ottoes, with such terror, that no consideration could tempt them to +visit the hill. We saw none of these wicked little spirits; nor any +place for them, except some small holes scattered over the top: we were +happy enough to escape their vengeance, though we remained some time on +the mound to enjoy the delightful prospect of the plain, which spreads +itself out till the eye rests upon the N.W. hills at a great distance, +and those of N.E. still farther off, enlivened by large herds of +buffaloe feeding at a distance. The soil of these plains is exceedingly +fine; there is, however, no timber except on the Missouri: all the wood +of the Whitestone river not being sufficient to cover thickly one +hundred acres. The plain country which surrounds this mound has +contributed not a little to its bad reputation: the wind driving from +every direction over the level ground obliges the insects to seek +shelter on its leeward side, or be driven against us by the wind. The +small birds, whose food they are, resort of course in great numbers in +quest of subsistence; and the Indians always seem to discover an unusual +assemblage of birds as produced by some supernatural cause: among them +we observed the brown martin employed in looking for insects, and so +gentle that they did not fly until we got within a few feet of them. We +have also distinguished among numerous birds of the plain, the +blackbird, the wren or prairie bird, and a species of lark about the +size of a partridge, with a short tail. The excessive heat and thirst +forced us from the hill, about one o'clock, to the nearest water, which +we found in the creek, at three miles distance, and remained an hour and +a half. We then went down the creek, through a lowland about one mile in +width, and crossed it three times, to the spot where we first reached it +in the morning. Here we gathered some delicious plums, grapes and blue +currants, and afterwards arrived at the mouth of the river about sunset. +To this place the course from the mound is S. twenty miles, E. nine +miles; we there resumed our periogue, and on reaching our encampment of +last night set the prairies on fire, to warn the Sioux of our approach. +In the mean time, the boat under serjeant Pryor had proceeded in the +afternoon one mile, to a bluff of blue clay on the south, and after +passing a sandbar and two sand islands fixed their camp at the distance +of six miles on the south. In the evening some rain fell. We had killed +a duck and several birds: in the boat, they had caught some large +catfish. + +Sunday, August 26. We rejoined the boat at nine o'clock before she set +out, and then passing by an island, and under a cliff on the south, +nearly two miles in extent and composed of white and blue earth, +encamped at nine miles distance, on a sandbar towards the north. +Opposite to this, on the south, is a small creek called Petit Arc or +Little Bow, and a short distance above it, an old village of the same +name. This village, of which nothing remains but the mound of earth +about four feet high surrounding it, was built by a Maha chief named +Little Bow, who being displeased with Blackbird, the late king, seceded +with two hundred followers and settled at this spot, which is now +abandoned, as the two villages have reunited since the death of +Blackbird. We have great quantities of grapes, and plums of three kinds; +two of a yellow colour, and distinguished by one of the species being +longer than the other; and a third round and red: all have an excellent +flavour, particularly those of the yellow kind. + +August 27. The morning star appeared much larger than usual. A gentle +breeze from the southeast carried us by some large sandbars, on both +sides and in the middle of the river, to a bluff, on the south side, at +seven and a half miles distant; this bluff is of white clay or chalk, +under which is much stone, like lime, incrusted with a clear substance, +supposed to be cobalt, and some dark ore. Above this bluff we set the +prairie on fire, to invite the Sioux. After twelve and a half miles, we +had passed several other sandbars, and now reached the mouth of a river +called by the French Jacques (James river) or Yankton, from the tribe +which inhabits its banks. It is about ninety yards wide at the +confluence: the country which it waters is rich prairie, with little +timber: it becomes deeper and wider above its mouth, and may be +navigated a great distance; as its sources rise near those of St. +Peter's, of the Mississippi, and the red river of lake Winnipeg. As we +came to the mouth of the river, an Indian swam to the boat; and, on our +landing, we were met by two others, who informed us that a large body of +Sioux were encamped near us: they accompanied three of our men, with an +invitation to meet us at a spot above the river: the third Indian +remained with us: he is a Maha boy, and says that his nation have gone +to the Pawnees to make peace with them. At fourteen miles, we encamped +on a sandbar to the north. The air was cool, the evening pleasant, the +wind from the southeast, and light. The river has fallen gradually, and +is now low. + +Tuesday, 28th. We passed, with a stiff breeze from the south, several +sandbars. On the south is a prairie which rises gradually from the water +to the height of a bluff, which is, at four miles distance, of a whitish +colour, and about seventy or eighty feet high. Further on is another +bluff, of a brownish colour, on the north side; and at the distance of +eight and a half miles is the beginning of Calumet bluff, on the south +side, under which we formed our camp, in a beautiful plain, to wait the +arrival of the Sioux. At the first bluff the young Indian left us and +joined their camp. Before reaching Calumet bluff one of the periogues +ran upon a log in the river, and was rendered unfit for service; so that +all our loading was put into the second periogue. On both sides of the +river are fine prairies, with cotton wood; and near the bluff there is +more timber in the points and valleys than we have been accustomed to +see. + +Wednesday, 29th. We had a violent storm of wind and rain last evening; +and were engaged during the day in repairing the periogue, and other +necessary occupations; when, at four o'clock in the afternoon, sergeant +Pryor and his party arrived on the opposite side, attended by five +chiefs, and about seventy men and boys. We sent a boat for them, and +they joined us, as did also Mr. Durion, the son of our interpreter, who +happened to be trading with the Sioux at this time. He returned with +sergeant Pryor to the Indians, with a present of tobacco, corn, and a +few kettles; and told them that we would speak to their chiefs in the +morning. Sergeant Pryor reported, that on reaching their village, which +is at twelve miles distance from our camp, he was met by a party with a +buffaloe robe, on which they desired to carry their visitors: an honour +which they declined, informing the Indians that they were not the +commanders of the boats: as a great mark of respect, they were then +presented with a fat dog, already cooked, of which they partook +heartily, and found it well flavoured. The camps of the Sioux are of a +conical form, covered with buffaloe robes, painted with various figures +and colours, with an aperture in the top for the smoke to pass through. +The lodges contain from ten to fifteen persons, and the interior +arrangement is compact and handsome, each lodge having a place for +cooking detached from it. + +August 30th. Thursday. The fog was so thick that we could not see the +Indian camp on the opposite side, but it cleared off about eight +o'clock. We prepared a speech, and some presents, and then sent for the +chiefs and warriors, whom we received, at twelve o'clock, under a large +oak tree, near to which the flag of the United States was flying. +Captain Lewis delivered a speech, with the usual advice and counsel for +their future conduct. We then acknowledged their chiefs, by giving to +the grand chief a flag, a medal, a certificate, with a string of wampum; +to which we added a chief's coat; that is, a richly laced uniform of the +United States artillery corps, and a cocked hat and red feather. One +second chief and three inferior ones were made or recognised by medals, +and a suitable present of tobacco, and articles of clothing. We then +smoked the pipe of peace, and the chiefs retired to a bower, formed of +bushes, by their young men, where they divided among each other the +presents, and smoked and eat, and held a council on the answer which +they were to make us to-morrow. The young people exercised their bows +and arrows in shooting at marks for beads, which we distributed to the +best marksmen; and in the evening the whole party danced until a late +hour, and in the course of their amusement we threw among them some +knives, tobacco, bells, tape, and binding, with which they were much +pleased. Their musical instruments were the drum, and a sort of little +bag made of buffaloe hide, dressed white, with small shot or pebbles in +it, and a bunch of hair tied to it. This produces a sort of rattling +music, with which the party was annoyed by four musicians during the +council this morning. + +August 31. In the morning, after breakfast, the chiefs met, and sat down +in a row, with pipes of peace, highly ornamented, and all pointed +towards the seats intended for captains Lewis and Clarke. When they +arrived and were seated, the grand chief, whose Indian name, Weucha, is, +in English Shake Hand, and, in French, is called Le Liberateur (the +deliverer) rose, and spoke at some length, approving what we had said, +and promising to follow our advice: + +"I see before me," said he, "my great father's two sons. You see me, and +the rest of our chiefs and warriors. We are very poor; we have neither +powder nor ball, nor knives; and our women and children at the village +have no clothes. I wish that as my brothers have given me a flag and a +medal, they would give something to those poor people, or let them stop +and trade with the first boat which comes up the river. I will bring +chiefs of the Pawnees and Mahas together, and make peace between them; +but it is better that I should do it than my great father's sons, for +they will listen to me more readily. I will also take some chiefs to +your country in the spring; but before that time I cannot leave home. I +went formerly to the English, and they gave me a medal and some clothes: +when I went to the Spanish they gave me a medal, but nothing to keep it +from my skin; but now you give me a medal and clothes. But still we are +poor; and I wish, brothers, you would give us something for our squaws." + +"When he sat down, Mahtoree, or White Crane, rose: + +"I have listened," said he, "to what our father's words were yesterday; +and I am, to-day, glad to see how you have dressed our old chief. I am a +young man, and do not wish to take much: my fathers have made me a +chief: I had much sense before, but now I think I have more than ever. +What the old chief has declared I will confirm, and do whatever he and +you please: but I wish that you would take pity on us, for we are very +poor." + +Another chief, called Pawnawneahpahbe, then said; + +"I am a young man, and know but little: I cannot speak well; but I have +listened to what you have told the old chief, and will do whatever you +agree." + +The same sentiments were then repeated by Aweawechache. + +We were surprised at finding that the first of these titles means +"Struck by the Pawnee," and was occasioned by some blow which the chief +had received in battle, from one of the Pawnee tribe. The second is, in +English, "Half Man," which seems a singular name for a warrior, till it +was explained to have its origin, probably, in the modesty of the chief; +who, on being told of his exploits, would say, "I am no warrior: I am +only half a man." The other chiefs spoke very little; but after they had +finished, one of the warriors delivered a speech, in which he declared +he would support them. They promised to make peace with the Ottoes and +Missouris, the only nations with whom they are at war. All these +harangues concluded by describing the distress of the nation: they +begged us to have pity on them: to send them traders: that they wanted +powder and ball; and seemed anxious that we should supply them with some +of their great father's milk, the name by which they distinguish ardent +spirits. We then gave some tobacco to each of the chiefs, and a +certificate to two of the warriors who attended the chief. We prevailed +on Mr. Durion to remain here, and accompany as many of the Sioux chiefs +as he could collect, down to the seat of government. We also gave his +son a flag, some clothes, and provisions, with directions to bring about +a peace between the surrounding tribe, and to convey some of their +chiefs to see the president. In the evening they left us, and encamped +on the opposite bank, accompanied by the two Durions. During the evening +and night we had much rain, and observed that the river rises a little. +The Indians, who have just left us, are the Yanktons, a tribe of the +great nation of Sioux. These Yanktons are about two hundred men in +number; and inhabit the Jacques, Desmoines, and Sioux rivers. In person +they are stout, well proportioned, and have a certain air of dignity and +boldness. In their dress they differ nothing from the other bands of the +nation whom we saw, and will describe afterwards: they are fond of +decorations, and use paint, and porcupine quills, and feathers. Some of +them wore a kind of necklace of white bear's claws, three inches long, +and closely strung together round their necks. They have only a few +fowling pieces, being generally armed with bows and arrows, in which, +however, they do not appear as expert as the more northern Indians. What +struck us most was an institution, peculiar to them, and to the Kite +Indians, further to the westward, from whom it is said to have been +copied. It is an association of the most active and brave young men, who +are bound to each other by attachment, secured by a vow, never to +retreat before any danger, or give way to their enemies. In war they go +forward without sheltering themselves behind trees, or aiding their +natural valour by any artifice. This punctilious determination, not to +be turned from their course, became heroic, or ridiculous, a short time +since, when the Yanktons were crossing the Missouri on the ice. A hole +lay immediately in their course, which might easily have been avoided, +by going round. This the foremost of the band disdained to do; but went +straight forward, and was lost. The others would have followed his +example, but were forcibly prevented by the rest of the tribe. These +young men sit, and encamp, and dance together, distinct from the rest of +the nation: they are generally about thirty or thirty-five years old; +and such is the deference paid to courage, that their seats in council +are superior to those of the chiefs, and their persons more respected. +But, as may be supposed, such indiscreet bravery will soon diminish the +numbers of those who practise it; so that the band is now reduced to +four warriors, who were among our visitors. These were the remains of +twenty-two, who composed the society not long ago; but, in a battle with +the Kite Indians, of the Black Mountains, eighteen of them were killed, +and these four were dragged from the field by their companions. + +Whilst these Indians remained with us we made very minute inquiries +relative to their situation and numbers, and trade, and manners. This we +did very satisfactorily, by means of two different interpreters; and +from their accounts, joined to our interviews with other bands of the +same nation, and much intelligence acquired since, we were enabled to +understand, with some accuracy, the condition of the Sioux hitherto so +little known. + +The Sioux, or Dacorta Indians, originally settled on the Mississippi, +and called by Carver, Madowesians, are now subdivided into tribes, as +follow: + +First, The Yanktons: this tribe inhabits the Sioux, Desmoines, and +Jacques rivers, and number about two hundred warriors. + +Second, The Tetons of the burnt woods. This tribe numbers about three +hundred men, who rove on both sides of the Missouri, the White, and +Teton rivers. + +Third. The Tetons Okandandas, a tribe consisting of about one hundred +and fifty men, who inhabit both sides of the Missouri below the Chayenne +river. + +Fourth, Tetons Minnakenozzo, a nation inhabiting both sides of the +Missouri, above the Chayenne river, and containing about two hundred and +fifty men. + +Fifth, Tetons Saone; these inhabit both sides of the Missouri below the +Warreconne river, and consist of about three hundred men. + +Sixth, Yanktons of the Plains, or Big Devils; who rove on the heads of +the Sioux, Jacques, and Red river; the most numerous of all the tribes, +and number about five hundred men. + +Seventh, Wahpatone; a nation residing on the St. Peter's, just above the +mouth of that river, and numbering two hundred men. + +Eighth, Mindawarcarton, or proper Dacorta or Sioux Indians. These +possess the original seat of the Sioux, and are properly so denominated. +They rove on both sides of the Mississippi, about the falls of St. +Anthony, and consist of three hundred men. + +Ninth, The Wahpatoota, or Leaf Beds. This nation inhabits both sides of +the river St. Peter's, below Yellow-wood river, amounting to about one +hundred and fifty men. + +Tenth, Sistasoone: this nation numbers two hundred men, and reside at +the head of the St. Peter's. Of these several tribes, more particular +notice will be taken hereafter. + +Saturday, September 1, 1804. We proceeded this morning under a light +southern breeze, and passed the Calumet bluffs; these are composed of a +yellowish red, and brownish clay as hard as chalk, which it much +resembles, and are one hundred and seventy, or one hundred and eighty +feet high. At this place the hills on each side come to the verge of the +river, those on the south being higher than on the north. Opposite the +bluffs is a large island covered with timber; above which the highlands +form a cliff over the river on the north side, called White Bear cliff; +an animal of that kind being killed in one of the holes in it, which are +numerous and apparently deep. At six miles we came to a large sand +island covered with cottonwood; the wind was high, and the weather rainy +and cloudy during the day. We made fifteen miles to a place on the north +side, at the lower point of a large island called Bonhomme, or Goodman's +island. The country on both sides has the same character of prairies, +with no timber; with occasional lowlands covered with cottonwood, elm +and oak: our hunters had killed an elk and a beaver: the catfish too are +in great abundance. + +September 2. It rained last night, and this morning we had a high wind +from the N.W. We went three miles to the lower part of an ancient +fortification on the south side, and passed the head of Bonhomme island, +which is large and well timbered: after this the wind became so violent, +attended by a cold rain, that we were compelled to land at four miles on +the northern side, under a high bluff of yellow clay, about one hundred +and ten feet in height. Our hunters supplied us with four elk; and we +had grapes and plums on the banks: we also saw the beargrass and rue, on +the side of the bluffs. At this place there are highlands on both sides +of the river which become more level at some distance back, and +contain but few streams of water. On the southern bank, during this day, +the grounds have not been so elevated. Captain Clarke crossed the river +to examine the remains of the fortification we had just passed. + + [Illustration: Fortification] + +This interesting object is on the south side of the Missouri, opposite +the upper extremity of Bonhomme island, and in a low level plain, the +hills being three miles from the river. It begins by a wall composed of +earth, rising immediately from the bank of the river and running in a +direct course S. 76°, W. ninety six yards; the base of this wall or +mound is seventy-five feet, and its height about eight. It then diverges +in a course S. 84° W. and continues at the same height and depth to the +distance of fifty-three yards, the angle being formed by a sloping +descent; at the junction of these two is an appearance of a hornwork of +the same height with the first angle: the same wall then pursues a +course N. 69° W. for three hundred yards: near its western extremity is +an opening or gateway at right angles to the wall, and projecting +inwards; this gateway is defended by two nearly semicircular walls +placed before it, lower than the large walls; and from the gateway there +seems to have been a covered way communicating with the interval between +these two walls: westward of the gate, the wall becomes much larger, +being about one hundred and five feet at its base, and twelve feet high: +at the end of this high ground the wall extends for fifty-six yards on a +course N. 32° W; it then turns N. 23° W. for seventy-three yards: these +two walls seems to have had a double or covered way; they are from ten +to fifteen feet eight inches in height, and from seventy-five to one +hundred and five feet in width at the base; the descent inwards being +steep, whilst outwards it forms a sort of glacis. At the distance of +seventy-three yards, the wall ends abruptly at a large hollow place much +lower than the general level of the plain, and from which is some +indication of a covered way to the water. The space between them is +occupied by several mounds scattered promiscuously through the gorge, in +the centre of which is a deep round hole. From the extremity of the last +wall, in a course N. 32° W. is a distance of ninety-six yards over the +low ground, where the wall recommences and crosses the plain in a course +N. 81° W. for eighteen hundred and thirty yards to the bank of the +Missouri. In this course its height is about eight feet, till it enters, +at the distance of five hundred and thirty-three yards, a deep circular +pond of seventy-three yards diameter; after which it is gradually lower, +towards the river: it touches the river at a muddy bar, which bears +every mark of being an encroachment of the water, for a considerable +distance; and a little above the junction, is a small circular redoubt. +Along the bank of the river, and at eleven hundred yards distance, in a +straight line from this wall, is a second, about six feet high, and of +considerable width: it rises abruptly from the bank of the Missouri, at +a point where the river bends, and goes straight forward, forming an +acute angle with the last wall, till it enters the river again, not far +from the mounds just described, towards which it is obviously tending. +At the bend the Missouri is five hundred yards wide; the ground on the +opposite side highlands, or low hills on the bank; and where the river +passes between this fort and Bonhomme island, all the distance from the +bend, it is constantly washing the banks into the stream, a large +sandbank being already taken from the shore near the wall. During the +whole course of this wall, or glacis, it is covered with trees, among +which are many large cotton trees, two or three feet in diameter. +Immediately opposite the citadel, or the part most strongly fortified, +on Bonhomme island, is a small work in a circular form, with a wall +surrounding it, about six feet in height. The young willows along the +water, joined to the general appearance of the two shores, induce a +belief that the bank of the island is encroaching, and the Missouri +indemnifies itself by washing away the base of the fortification. The +citadel contains about twenty acres, but the parts between the long +walls must embrace nearly five hundred acres. + +These are the first remains of the kind which we have had an opportunity +of examining; but our French interpreters assure us, that there are +great numbers of them on the Platte, the Kanzas, the Jacques, &c. and +some of our party say, that they observed two of those fortresses on the +upper side of the Petit Arc creek, not far from its mouth; that the wall +was about six feet high, and the sides of the angles one hundred yards +in length. + +September 3. The morning was cold, and the wind from the northwest. We +passed at sunrise, three large sandbars, and at the distance of ten +miles reached a small creek, about twelve yards wide, coming in from the +north, above a white bluff: this creek has obtained the name of Plum +creek, from the number of that fruit which are in the neighbourhood, and +of a delightful quality. Five miles further, we encamped on the south +near the edge of a plain; the river is wide, and covered with sandbars +to-day: the banks are high and of a whitish colour; the timber scarce, +but an abundance of grapes. Beaver houses too have been observed in +great numbers on the river, but none of the animals themselves. + +September 4. We set out early, with a very cold wind from S.S.E. and at +one mile and a half, reached a small creek, called Whitelime creek, on +the south side. Just above this is a cliff, covered with cedar trees, +and at three miles a creek, called Whitepaint creek, of about thirty +yards wide: on the same side, and at four and a half miles distance from +the Whitepaint creek, is the Rapid river, or, as it is called by the +French, la Riverequi Court; this river empties into the Missouri, in a +course S.W. by W. and is one hundred and fifty-two yards wide, and four +feet deep at the confluence. It rises in the Black mountains, and passes +through a hilly country, with a poor soil. Captain Clark ascended three +miles to a beautiful plain, on the upper side, where the Pawnees once +had a village: he found that the river widened above its mouth, and +much divided by sands and islands, which, joined to the great rapidity +of the current, makes the navigation very difficult, even for small +boats. Like the Platte its waters are of a light colour; like that river +too it throws out into the Missouri, great quantities of sand, coarser +even than that of the Platte, which form sandbars and shoals near its +mouth. + +We encamped just above it, on the south, having made only eight miles, +as the wind shifted to the south, and blew so hard that in the course of +the day we broke our mast: we saw some deer, a number of geese, and shot +a turkey and a duck: the place in which we halted is a fine low-ground, +with much timber, such as red cedar, honeylocust, oak, arrowwood, elm +and coffeenut. + +September 5, Wednesday. The wind was again high from the south. At five +miles, we came to a large island, called Pawnee island, in the middle of +the river; and stopped to breakfast at a small creek on the north, which +has the name of Goat creek, at eight and a half miles. Near the mouth of +this creek the beaver had made a dam across so as to form a large pond, +in which they built their houses. Above this island the river Poncara +falls into the Missouri from the south, and is thirty yards wide at the +entrance. Two men whom we despatched to the village of the same name, +returned with information that they had found it on the lower side of +the creek; but as this is the hunting season, the town was so completely +deserted that they had killed a buffaloe in the village itself. This +tribe of Poncaras, who are said to have once numbered four hundred men, +are now reduced to about fifty, and have associated for mutual +protection with the Mahas, who are about two hundred in number. These +two nations are allied by a similarity of misfortune; they were once +both numerous, both resided in villages, and cultivated Indian corn; +their common enemies, the Sioux and small-pox, drove them from their +towns, which they visit only occasionally for the purposes of trade; +and they now wander over the plains on the sources of the Wolf and +Quieurre rivers. Between the Pawnee island and Goat creek on the north, +is a cliff of blue earth, under which are several mineral springs, +impregnated with salts: near this we observed a number of goats, from +which the creek derives its name. At three and a half miles from the +creek, we came to a large island on the south, along which we passed to +the head of it, and encamped about four o'clock. Here we replaced the +mast we had lost, with a new one of cedar: some bucks and an elk were +procured to-day, and a black tailed deer was seen near the Poncara's +village. + +Thursday, September 6. There was a storm this morning from the N.W. and +though it moderated, the wind was still high, and the weather very cold; +the number of sandbars too, added to the rapidity of the current, +obliged us to have recourse to the towline: with all our exertions we +did not make more than eight and a half miles, and encamped on the +north, after passing high cliffs of soft, blue, and red coloured stone, +on the southern shore. We saw some goats, and great numbers of buffaloe, +in addition to which the hunters furnished us with elk, deer, turkies, +geese, and one beaver: a large catfish too was caught in the evening. +The ground near the camp, was a low prarie, without timber, though just +below is a grove of cottonwood. + +Friday, September 7. The morning was very cold and the wind southeast. +At five and a half miles, we reached and encamped at the foot of a round +mountain, on the south, having passed two small islands. This mountain, +which is about three hundred feet at the base, forms a cone at the top, +resembling a dome at a distance, and seventy feet or more above the +surrounding highlands. As we descended from this dome, we arrived at a +spot, on the gradual descent of the hill, nearly four acres in extent, +and covered with small holes: these are the residence of a little +animal, called by the French, petit chien (little dog) who sit erect +near the mouth, and make a whistling noise, but when alarmed take refuge +in their holes. In order to bring them out, we poured into one of the +holes five barrels of water without filling it, but we dislodged and +caught the owner. After digging down another of the holes for six feet, +we found, on running a pole into it, that we had not yet dug half way to +the bottom: we discovered, however, two frogs in the hole, and near it +we killed a dark rattlesnake, which had swallowed a small prairie dog: +we were also informed, though we never witnessed the fact, that a sort +of lizard, and a snake, live habitually with these animals. The petit +chien are justly named, as they resemble a small dog in some +particulars, though they have also some points of similarity to the +squirrel. The head resembles the squirrel in every respect, except that +the ear is shorter, the tail like that of the ground-squirrel, the +toe-nails are long, the fur is fine, and the long hair is gray. + +Saturday, September 8. The wind still continued from the southeast, but +moderately. At seven miles we reached a house on the north side, called +the Pawnee house, where a trader, named Trudeau, wintered in the year +1796-7: behind this, hills, much higher than usual, appear to the north, +about eight miles off. Before reaching this house, we came by three +small islands, on the north side, and a small creek on the south; and +after leaving it, reached another, at the end of seventeen miles, on +which we encamped, and called it Boat island: we here saw herds of +buffaloe, and some elk, deer, turkies, beaver, a squirrel, and a prairie +dog. The party on the north represent the country through which they +passed, as poor, rugged, and hilly, with the appearance of having been +lately burnt by the Indians; the broken hills, indeed, approach the +river on both sides, though each is bordered by a strip of woodland near +the water. + +Sunday, September 9. We coasted along the island on which we had +encamped, and then passed three sand and willow islands, and a number of +smaller sandbars. The river is shallow, and joined by two small creeks +from the north, and one from the south. In the plains, to the south, +are great numbers of buffaloe, in herds of nearly five hundred; all +the copses of timber appear to contain elk or deer. We encamped on a +sandbar, on the southern shore, at the distance of fourteen and a +quarter miles. + +September 10, Monday. The next day we made twenty miles. The morning was +cloudy and dark, but a light breeze from the southeast carried us past +two small islands on the south, and one on the north; till, at the +distance of ten and a half miles, we reached an island, extending for +two miles in the middle of the river, covered with red cedar, from which +it derives its name of Cedar island. Just below this island, on a hill, +to the south, is the backbone of a fish, forty-five feet long, tapering +towards the tail, and in a perfect state of petrifaction, fragments of +which were collected and sent to Washington. On both sides of the river +are high dark-coloured bluffs. About a mile and a half from the island, +on the southern shore, the party on that side discovered a large and +very strong impregnated spring of water; and another, not so strongly +impregnated, half a mile up the hill. Three miles beyond Cedar island is +a large island on the north, and a number of sandbars. After which is +another, about a mile in length, lying in the middle of the river, and +separated by a small channel, at its extremity, from another above it, +on which we encamped. These two islands are called Mud islands. The +river is shallow during this day's course, and is falling a little. The +elk and buffaloe are in great abundance, but the deer have become +scarce. + +September 11, Tuesday. At six and a half miles we passed the upper +extremity of an island on the south; four miles beyond which is another +on the same side of the river; and about a quarter of a mile distant we +visited a large village of the barking-squirrel. It was situated on a +gentle declivity, and covered a space of nine hundred and seventy yards +long, and eight hundred yards wide; we killed four of them. We then +resumed our course, and during five and a half miles passed two islands +on the north, and then encamped at the distance of sixteen miles, on the +south side of the river, and just above a small run. The morning had +been cloudy, but in the afternoon it began raining, with a high +northwest wind, which continued during the greater part of the night. +The country seen to-day consists of narrow strips of lowland, rising +into uneven grounds, which are succeeded, at the distance of three +miles, by rich and level plains, but without any timber. The river +itself is wide, and crowded with sandbars. Elk, deer, squirrels, a +pelican, and a very large porcupine, were our game this day; some foxes +too were seen, but not caught. + +In the morning we observed a man riding on horseback down towards the +boat, and we were much pleased to find that it was George Shannon, one +of our party, for whose safety we had been very uneasy. Our two horses +having strayed from us on the 26th of August, he was sent to search for +them. After he had found them he attempted to rejoin us, but seeing some +other tracks, which must have been those of Indians, and which he +mistook for our own, he concluded that we were ahead, and had been for +sixteen days following the bank of the river above us. During the first +four days he exhausted his bullets, and was then nearly starved, being +obliged to subsist, for twelve days, on a few grapes, and a rabbit which +he killed by making use of a hard piece of stick for a ball. One of his +horses gave out, and was left behind; the other he kept as a last +resource for food. Despairing of overtaking us, he was returning down +the river, in hopes of meeting some other boat; and was on the point of +killing his horse, when he was so fortunate as to join us. + +Wednesday, September 12. The day was dark and cloudy; the wind from the +northwest. At a short distance we reached an island in the middle of the +river, which is covered with timber, a rare object now. We with great +difficulty were enabled to struggle through the sandbars, the water +being very rapid and shallow, so that we were several hours in making a +mile. Several times the boat wheeled on the bar, and the men were +obliged to jump out and prevent her from upsetting; at others, after +making a way up one channel, the shoalness of the water forced us back +to seek the deep channel. We advanced only four miles in the whole day +and encamped on the south. Along both sides of the river are high +grounds; on the southern side particularly, they form dark bluffs, in +which may be observed slate and coal intermixed. We saw also several +villages of barking-squirrels; great numbers of growse, and three foxes. + +September 13, Thursday. We made twelve miles to-day through a number of +sandbars, which make it difficult to find the proper channel. The hills +on each side are high, and separated from the river by a narrow plain on +its borders. On the north, these lowlands are covered in part with +timber, and great quantities of grapes, which are now ripe: on the south +we found plenty of plums, but they are not yet ripe; and near the dark +bluffs, a run tainted with allum and copperas; the southern side being +more strongly impregnated with minerals than the northern. Last night +four beaver were caught in the traps; a porcupine was shot as it was +upon a cottontree, feeding on its leaves and branches. We encamped on +the north side, opposite to a small willow island. At night the +musquitoes were very troublesome, though the weather was cold and rainy +and the wind from the northwest. + +Friday, September 14. At two miles we reached a round island on the +northern side; at about five, a run on the south; two and a half miles +further, a small creek; and at nine miles encamped near the month of a +creek, on the same side. The sandbars are very numerous, and render the +river wide and shallow, and obliged the crew to get into the water and +drag the boat over the bars several times. During the whole day we +searched along the southern shore, and at some distance into the +interior, to find an ancient volcano which we heard at St. Charles was +somewhere in this neighbourhood; but we could not discern the slightest +appearance of any thing volcanic. In the course of their search the +party shot a buck-goat and a hare. The hills, particularly on the south, +continue high, but the timber is confined to the islands and banks of +the river. We had occasion here to observe the rapid undermining of +these hills by the Missouri: the first attacks seem to be on the hills +which overhang the river; as soon as the violence of the current +destroys the grass at the foot of them, the whole texture appears +loosened, and the ground dissolves and mixes with the water: the muddy +mixture is then forced over the low-grounds, which it covers sometimes +to the depth of three inches, and gradually destroys the herbage; after +which it can offer no resistance to the water, and becomes at last +covered with sand. + +Saturday, September 15. We passed, at an early hour, the creek near our +last night's encampment; and at two miles distance reached the mouth of +White river, coming in from the south. We ascended a short distance, and +sent a sergeant and another man to examine it higher up. This river has +a bed of about three hundred yards, though the water is confined to one +hundred and fifty: in the mouth is a sand island, and several sandbars. +The current is regular and swift, with sandbars projecting from the +points. It differs very much from the Platte, and Quieurre, in throwing +out, comparatively, little sand, but its general character is like that +of the Missouri. This resemblance was confirmed by the sergeant, who +ascended about twelve miles; at which distance it was about the same +width as near the mouth, and the course, which was generally west, had +been interrupted by islands and sandbars. The timber consisted chiefly +of elm; they saw pine burrs, and sticks of birch were seen floating down +the river; they had also met with goats, such as we have heretofore +seen; great quantities of buffaloe, near to which were wolves, some +deer, and villages of barking squirrels. At the confluence of White +river with the Missouri is an excellent position for a town; the land +rising by three gradual ascents, and the neighbourhood furnishing more +timber than is usual in this country. After passing high dark bluffs on +both sides, we reached the lower point of an island towards the south, +at the distance of six miles. The island bears an abundance of grapes, +and is covered with red cedar: it also contains a number of rabbits. At +the end of this island, which is small, a narrow channel separates it +from a large sand island, which we passed, and encamped, eight miles on +the north, under a high point of land opposite a large creek to the +south, on which we observe an unusual quantity of timber. The wind was +from the northwest this afternoon, and high, the weather cold, and its +dreariness increased by the howlings of a number of wolves around us. + +September 16, Sunday. Early this morning, having reached a convenient +spot on the south side, and at one mile and a quarter distance, we +encamped just above a small creek, which we called Corvus, having killed +an animal of that genus near it. Finding that we could not proceed over +the sandbars, as fast as we desired, while the boat was so heavily +loaded, we concluded not to send back, as we originally intended, our +third periogue, but to detain the soldiers until spring, and in the mean +time lighten the boat by loading the periogue: this operation, added to +that of drying all our wet articles, detained us during the day. Our +camp is in a beautiful plain, with timber thinly scattered for three +quarters of a mile, and consisting chiefly of elm, cottonwood, some ash +of an indifferent quality, and a considerable quantity of a small +species of white oak: this tree seldom rises higher than thirty feet, +and branches very much; the bark is rough, thick and of a light colour; +the leaves small, deeply indented, and of a pale green; the cup which +contains the acorn is fringed on the edges, and embraces it about one +half: the acorn itself, which grows in great profusion, is of an +excellent flavour, and has none of the roughness which most other acorns +possess; they are now falling, and have probably attracted the number of +deer which we saw on this place, as all the animals we have seen are +fond of that food. The ground having been recently burnt by the Indians, +is covered with young green grass, and in the neighbourhood are great +quantities of fine plums. We killed a few deer for the sake of their +skins, which we wanted to cover the periogues, the meat being too poor +for food: the cold season coming on, a flannel shirt was given to each +man, and fresh powder to those who had exhausted their supply. + +Monday, September 16. Whilst some of the party were engaged in the same +way as yesterday, others were employed in examining the surrounding +country. About a quarter of a mile behind our camp, and at an elevation +of twenty feet above it, a plain extends nearly three miles parallel to +the river, and about a mile back to the hills, towards which it +gradually ascends. Here we saw a grove of plum-trees loaded with fruit, +now ripe, and differing in nothing from those of the Atlantic states, +except that the tree is smaller and more thickly set. The ground of the +plain is occupied by the burrows of multitudes of barking squirrels, who +entice hither the wolves of a small kind, hawks, and polecats, all of +which animals we saw, and presumed that they fed on the squirrel. This +plain is intersected nearly in its whole extent by deep ravines and +steep irregular rising grounds from one to two hundred feet. On +ascending the range of hills which border the plain, we saw a second +high level plain stretching to the south as far as the eye could reach. +To the westward, a high range of hills about twenty miles distant runs +nearly north and south, but not to any great extent, as their rise and +termination is embraced by one view, and they seemed covered with a +verdure similar to that of the plains. The same view extended over the +irregular hills which border the northern side of the Missouri; all +around the country had been recently burnt, and a young green grass +about four inches high covered the ground, which was enlivened by herds +of antelopes and buffaloe; the last of which were in such multitudes, +that we cannot exaggerate in saying that at a single glance we saw three +thousand of them before us. Of all the animals we had seen the antelope +seems to possess the most wonderful fleetness: shy and timorous they +generally repose only on the ridges, which command a view of all the +approaches of an enemy: the acuteness of their sight distinguishes the +most distant danger, the delicate sensibility of their smell defeats the +precautions of concealment, and when alarmed their rapid career seems +more like the flight of birds than the movements of an earthly being. +After many unsuccessful attempts, captain Lewis at last, by winding +around the ridges, approached a party of seven, which were on an +eminence, towards which the wind was unfortunately blowing. The only +male of the party frequently encircled the summit of the hill, as if to +announce any danger to the females, who formed a group at the top. +Although they did not see captain Lewis, the smell alarmed them, and +they fled when he was at the distance of two hundred yards: he +immediately ran to the spot where they had been, a ravine concealed them +from him, but the next moment they appeared on a second ridge at the +distance of three miles. He doubted whether it could be the same, but +their number and the extreme rapidity with which they continued their +course, convinced him that they must have gone with a speed equal to +that of the most distinguished racehorse. Among our acquisitions to-day +was a mule-deer, a magpie, the common deer, and buffaloe: captain Lewis +also saw a hare, and killed a rattlesnake near the burrows of the +barking squirrels. + +Tuesday, September 18. Having everything in readiness we proceeded, +with the boat much lightened, but the wind being from the N.W. we made +but little way. At one mile we reached an island in the middle of the +river, nearly a mile in length, and covered with red cedar; at its +extremity a small creek comes in from the north; we then met some +sandbars, and the wind being very high and ahead, we encamped on the +south, having made only seven miles. In addition to the common deer, +which were in great abundance, we saw goats, elk, buffaloe, the black +tailed deer; the large wolves too are very numerous, and have long hair +with coarse fur, and are of a light colour. A small species of wolf +about the size of a gray fox was also killed, and proved to be the +animal which we had hitherto mistaken for a fox: there are also many +porcupines, rabbits, and barking squirrels in the neighbourhood. + +September 19. We this day enjoyed a cool clear morning, and a wind from +the southeast. We reached at three miles a bluff on the south, and four +miles farther, the lower point of Prospect island, about two and a half +miles in length; opposite to this are high bluffs, about eighty feet +above the water, beyond which are beautiful plains gradually rising as +they recede from the river: these are watered by three streams which +empty near each other; the first is about thirty-five yards wide, the +ground on its sides high and rich, with some timber; the second about +twelve yards wide, but with less timber; the third is nearly of the same +size, and contains more water, but it scatters its waters over the large +timbered plain, and empties itself into the river at three places. These +rivers are called by the French Les trois rivieres des Sioux, the three +Sioux rivers; and as the Sioux generally cross the Missouri at this +place, it is called the Sioux pass of the three rivers. These streams +have the same right of asylum, though in a less degree than Pipestone +creek already mentioned. + +Two miles from the island we passed a creek fifteen yards wide; eight +miles further, another twenty yards wide; three miles beyond which, is a +third of eighteen yards width, all on the south side: the second which +passes through a high plain we called Elm creek; to the third we gave +the name of Night creek, having reached it late at night. About a mile +beyond this is a small island on the north side of the river, and is +called Lower island, as it is situated at the commencement of what is +known by the name of the Grand Detour, or Great Bend of the Missouri. +Opposite is a creek on the south about ten yards wide, which waters a +plain where there are great numbers of the prickley pear, which name we +gave to the creek. We encamped on the south, opposite the upper +extremity of the island, having made an excellent day's sail of twenty +six and a quarter miles. Our game this day consisted chiefly of deer, of +these four were black tails, one a buck with two main prongs of horns on +each side and forked equally. Large herds of buffaloe, elk and goats, +were also seen. + +Thursday, September 20. Finding we had reached the Big Bend, we +despatched two men with our only horse across the neck, to hunt there +and wait our arrival at the first creek beyond it. We then set out with +fair weather and the wind from S.E. to make the circuit of the bend. +Near the lower island the sandbars are numerous, and the river shallow. +At nine and a half miles is a sand island, on the southern side. About +ten miles beyond it is a small island on the south, opposite to a small +creek on the north. This island, which is near the N.W. extremity of the +bend, is called Solitary island. At about eleven miles further, we +encamped on a sandbar, having made twenty-seven and a half miles. +Captain Clarke, who early this morning had crossed the neck of the bend, +joined us in the evening. At the narrowest part, the gorge is composed +of high and irregular hills of about one hundred and eighty or one +hundred and ninety feet in elevation; from this descends an unbroken +plain over the whole of the bend, and the country is separated from it +by this ridge. Great numbers of buffaloe, elk, and goats are wandering +over these plains, accompanied by grouse and larks. Captain Clarke saw a +hare also, on the Great Bend. Of the goats killed to-day, one is a +female differing from the male in being smaller in size; its horns too +are smaller and straighter, having one short prong, and no black about +the neck: none of these goats have any beard, but are delicately formed, +and very beautiful. + +Friday, September 21. Between one and two o'clock the serjeant on guard +alarmed us, by crying that the sandbar on which we lay was sinking; we +jumped up, and found that both above and below our camp the sand was +undermined and falling in very fast: we had scarcely got into the boats +and pushed off, when the bank under which they had been lying, fell in, +and would certainly have sunk the two periogues if they had remained +there. By the time we reached the opposite shore the ground of our +encampment sunk also. We formed a second camp for the rest of the night; +and at daylight proceeded on to the gorge or throat of the Great Bend, +where we breakfasted. A man, whom we had despatched to step off the +distance across the bend, made it two thousand yards: the circuit is +thirty miles. During the whole course, the land of the bend is low, with +occasional bluffs; that on the opposite side, high prairie ground, and +long ridges of dark bluffs. After breakfast, we passed through a high +prairie on the north side, and a rich cedar lowland and cedar bluff on +the south, till we reached a willow island below the mouth of a small +creek. This creek, called Tyler's river, is about thirty-five yards +wide, comes in on the south, and is at the distance of six miles from +the neck of the Great Bend. Here we found a deer, and the skin of a +white wolf, left us by our hunters ahead: large quantities of different +kinds of plover and brants are in this neighbourhood, and seen +collecting and moving towards the south; the catfish are small, and not +in such plenty as we had found them below this place. We passed several +sandbars, which make the river very shallow and about a mile in width, +and encamped on the south, at the distance of eleven and a half miles. +On each side the shore is lined with hard rough gulleystones, rolled +from the hills and small brooks. The most common timber is the cedar, +though, in the prairies, there are great quantities of the prickly pear. +From this place we passed several sandbars, which make the river +shallow, and about a mile in width. At the distance of eleven and a half +miles, we encamped on the north at the lower point of an ancient island, +which has since been connected with the main land by the filling up of +the northern channel, and is now covered with cottonwood. We here saw +some tracks of Indians, but they appeared three or four weeks old. This +day was warm. + +September 22. A thick fog detained us until seven o'clock; our course +was through inclined prairies on each side of the river, crowded with +buffaloe. We halted at a point on the north side, near a high bluff on +the south, and took a meridian altitude, which gave us the latitude of +44° 11' 33-3/10". On renewing our course, we reached first a small +island on the south, at the distance of four and a half miles, +immediately above which is another island opposite to a creek fifteen +yards wide. This creek, and the two islands, one of which is half a mile +long, and the second three miles, are called the Three Sisters: a +beautiful plain extending on both sides of the river. This is followed +by an island on the north, called Cedar island, about one mile and a +half in length and the same distance in breadth, and deriving its name +from the quality of the timber. On the south side of this island, is a +fort and a large trading house, built by a Mr. Loisel, who wintered here +during the last year, in order to trade with the Sioux, the remains of +whose camps are in great numbers about this place. The establishment is +sixty or seventy feet square, built with red cedar and picketted in +with the same materials. The hunters who had been sent ahead joined us +here. They mention that the hills are washed in gullies, in passing over +which, some mineral substances had rotted and destroyed their moccasins; +they had killed two deer and a beaver. At sixteen miles distance we came +to on the north side at the mouth of a small creek. The large stones +which we saw yesterday on the shores are now some distance in the river, +and render the navigation dangerous. The musquitoes are still numerous +in the low grounds. + +Sunday, September 23. We passed, with a light breeze from the southeast, +a small island on the north, called Goat island; above which is a small +creek, called by the party Smoke creek, as we observed a great smoke to +the southwest on approaching it. At ten miles we came to the lower point +of a large island, having passed two small willow islands with sandbars +projecting from them. This island, which we called Elk island, is about +two and a half miles long, and three quarters of a mile wide, situated +near the south, and covered with cottonwood, the red currant, and +grapes. The river is here almost straight for a considerable distance, +wide and shallow, with many sandbars. A small creek on the north, about +sixteen yards wide, we called Reuben's creek; as Reuben Fields, one of +our men, was the first of the party who reached it. At a short distance +above this we encamped for the night, having made twenty miles. The +country, generally, consists of low, rich, timbered ground on the north, +and high barren lands on the south: on both sides great numbers of +buffaloe are feeding. In the evening three boys of the Sioux nation swam +across the river, and informed us that two parties of Sioux were +encamped on the next river, one consisting of eighty, and the second of +sixty lodges, at some distance above. After treating them kindly we sent +them back with a present of two carrots of tobacco to their chiefs, whom +we invited to a conference in the morning. + +Monday, September 24. The wind was from the east, and the day fair; we +soon passed a handsome prairie on the north side, covered with ripe +plums, and the mouth of a creek on the south, called Highwater creek, a +little above our encampment. At about five miles we reached an island +two and a half miles in length, and situated near the south. Here we +were joined by one of our hunters, who procured four elk, but whilst he +was in pursuit of the game the Indians had stolen his horse. We left the +island, and soon overtook five Indians on the shore: we anchored and +told them from the boat we were friends and wished to continue so, but +were not afraid of any Indians; that some of their young men had stolen +the horse which their great father had sent for their great chief, and +that we could not treat with them until he was restored. They said that +they knew nothing of the horse, but if he had been taken he should be +given up. We went on, and at eleven and a half miles, passed an island +on the north, which we called Good-humoured island; it is about one and +a half miles long, and abounds in elk. At thirteen and a half miles, we +anchored one hundred yards off the mouth of a river on the south side, +where we were joined by both the periogues and encamped; two thirds of +the party remained on board, and the rest went as a guard on shore with +the cooks and one periogue; we have seen along the sides of the hills on +the north a great deal of stone; besides the elk, we also observed a +hare; the five Indians whom we had seen followed us, and slept with the +guard on shore. Finding one of them was a chief we smoked with him, and +made him a present of tobacco. This river is about seventy yards wide, +and has a considerable current. As the tribe of the Sioux which inhabit +it are called Teton, we gave it the name of Teton river. + + + + + CHAP. IV. + + Council held with the Tetons--Their manners, dances, &c.--Chayenne + River--Council held with the Ricara Indians--Their manners and + habits--Strange instance of Ricara idolatry--Another + instance--Cannonball river--Arrival among the Mandans--Character of + the surrounding country, and of the creeks, islands, &c. + + +September 25. The morning was fine, and the wind continued from the +southeast. We raised a flagstaff and an awning, under which we assembled +at twelve o'clock, with all the party parading under arms. The chiefs +and warriors from the camp two miles up the river, met us, about fifty +or sixty in number, and after smoking delivered them a speech; but as +our Sioux interpreter, Mr. Durion, had been left with the Yanktons, we +were obliged to make use of a Frenchman who could not speak fluently, +and therefore we curtailed our harangue. After this we went through the +ceremony of acknowledging the chiefs, by giving to the grand chief a +medal, a flag of the United States, a laced uniform coat, a cocked hat +and feather: to the two other chiefs a medal and some small presents; +and to two warriors of consideration certificates. The name of the great +chief is Untongasabaw, or Black Buffaloe; the second Tortohonga, or the +Partisan; the third Tartongawaka, or Buffaloe Medicine: the name of one +of the warriors was Wawzinggo; that of the second Matocoquepa, or Second +Bear. We then invited the chiefs on board, and showed them the boat, the +airgun, and such curiosities as we thought might amuse them: In this we +succeeded too well; for after giving them a quarter of a glass of +whiskey, which they seemed to like very much, and sucked the bottle, it +was with much difficulty that we could get rid of them. They at last +accompanied captain Clarke on shore in a periogue with five men; but it +seems they had formed a design to stop us; for no sooner had the party +landed than three of the Indians seized the cable of the periogue, and +one of the soldiers of the chief put his arms round the mast: the second +chief who affected intoxication, then said, that we should not go on, +that they had not received presents enough from us; captain Clarke told +him that he would not be prevented from going on; that we were not +squaws, but warriors; that we were sent by our great father, who could +in a moment exterminate them: the chief replied, that he too had +warriors, and was proceeding to offer personal violence to captain +Clarke, who immediately drew his sword, and made a signal to the boat to +prepare for action. The Indians who surrounded him, drew their arrows +from their quivers and were bending their bows, when the swivel in the +boat was instantly pointed towards them, and twelve of our most +determined men jumped into the periogue and joined captain Clarke. This +movement made an impression on them, for the grand chief ordered the +young men away from the periogue, and they withdrew and held a short +council with the warriors. Being unwilling to irritate them, captain +Clarke then went forward and offered his hand to the first and second +chiefs, who refused to take it. He then turned from them and got into +the periogue, but had not gone more than ten paces when both the chiefs +and two of the warriors waded in after him, and he brought them on +board. We then proceeded on for a mile and anchored off a willow island, +which from the circumstances which had just occurred, we called +Badhumoured island. + +Wednesday, September 26. Our conduct yesterday seemed to have inspired +the Indians with fear of us, and as we were desirous of cultivating +their acquaintance, we complied with their wish that we should give them +an opportunity of treating us well, and also suffer their squaws and +children to see us and our boat, which would be perfectly new to them. +Accordingly, after passing at one and a half mile a small willow island +and several sandbars, we came to on the south side, where a crowd of +men, women and children were waiting to receive us. Captain Lewis went +on shore and remained several hours, and observing that their +disposition was friendly we resolved to remain during the night to a +dance, which they were preparing for us. Captains Lewis and Clarke, who +went on shore one after the other, were met on landing by ten well +dressed young men, who took them up in a robe highly decorated and +carried them to a large council house, where they were placed on a +dressed buffaloe skin by the side of the grand chief. The hall or +council-room was in the shape of three quarters of a circle, covered at +the top and sides with skins well dressed and sewed together. Under this +shelter sat about seventy men, forming a circle round the chief, before +whom were placed a Spanish flag and the one we had given them yesterday. +This left a vacant circle of about six feet diameter, in which the pipe +of peace was raised on two forked sticks, about six or eight inches from +the ground, and under it the down of the swan was scattered: a large +fire, in which they were cooking provisions, stood near, and in the +centre about four hundred pounds of excellent buffaloe meat as a present +for us. As soon as we were seated, an old man got up, and after +approving what we had done, begged us to take pity on their unfortunate +situation. To this we replied with assurances of protection. After he +had ceased, the great chief rose and delivered an harangue to the same +effect: then with great solemnity he took some of the most delicate +parts of the dog, which was cooked for the festival, and held it to the +flag by way of sacrifice: this done, he held up the pipe of peace, and +first pointed it towards the heavens, then to the four quarters of the +globe, and then to the earth, made a short speech, lighted the pipe, and +presented it to us. We smoked, and he again harangued his people, after +which the repast was served up to us. It consisted of the dog which they +had just been cooking, this being a great dish among the Sioux and used +on all festivals; to this were added, pemitigon, a dish made of buffaloe +meat, dried or jerked, and then pounded and mixed raw with grease and a +kind of ground potatoe, dressed like the preparation of Indian corn +called hominy, to which it is little inferior. Of all these luxuries +which were placed before us in platters with horn spoons, we took the +pemitigon and the potatoe, which we found good, but we could as yet +partake but sparingly of the dog. We eat and smoked for an hour, when it +became dark: every thing was then cleared away for the dance, a large +fire being made in the centre of the house, giving at once light and +warmth to the ballroom. The orchestra was composed of about ten men, who +played on a sort of tambourin, formed of skin stretched across a hoop; +and made a jingling noise with a long stick to which the hoofs of deer +and goats were hung; the third instrument was a small skin bag with +pebbles in it: these, with five or six young men for the vocal part, +made up the band. The women then came forward highly decorated; some +with poles in their hands, on which were hung the scalps of their +enemies; others with guns, spears or different trophies, taken in war by +their husbands, brothers, or connexions. Having arranged themselves in +two columns, one on each side of the fire, as soon as the music began +they danced towards each other till they met in the centre, when the +rattles were shaken, and they all shouted and returned back to their +places. They have no step, but shuffle along the ground; nor does the +music appear to be any thing more than a confusion of noises, +distinguished only by hard or gentle blows upon the buffaloe skin: the +song is perfectly extemporaneous. In the pauses of the dance, any man of +the company comes forward and recites, in a sort of low guttural tone, +some little story or incident, which is either martial or ludicrous; or, +as was the case this evening, voluptuous and indecent; this is taken up +by the orchestra and the dancers, who repeat it in a higher strain and +dance to it. Sometimes they alternate; the orchestra first performing, +and when it ceases, the women raise their voices and make a music more +agreeable, that is, less intolerable than that of the musicians. The +dances of the men, which are always separate from those of the women, +are conducted very nearly in the same way, except that the men jump up +and down instead of shuffling; and in the war dances the recitations are +all of a military cast. The harmony of the entertainment had nearly been +disturbed by one of the musicians, who thinking he had not received a +due share of the tobacco we had distributed during the evening, put +himself into a passion, broke one of the drums, threw two of them into +the fire, and left the band. They were taken out of the fire: a buffaloe +robe held in one hand and beaten with the other, by several of the +company, supplied the place of the lost drum or tambourin, and no notice +was taken of the offensive conduct of the man. We staid till twelve +o'clock at night, when we informed the chiefs that they must be fatigued +with all these attempts to amuse us, and retired accompanied by four +chiefs, two of whom spent the night with us on board. + +While on shore we saw twenty-five squaws, and about the same number of +children, who had been taken prisoners two weeks ago, in a battle with +their countrymen the Mahas. In this engagement the Sioux destroyed forty +lodges, killed seventy-five men, of which we saw many of the scalps, and +took these prisoners; their appearance is wretched and dejected; the +women too seem low in stature, coarse and ugly; though their present +condition may diminish their beauty. We gave them a variety of small +articles, such as awls and needles, and interceded for them with the +chiefs, to whom we recommended to follow the advice of their great +father, to restore the prisoners and live in peace with the Mahas, which +they promised to do. + +The tribe which we this day saw, are a part of the great Sioux nation, +and are known by the name of the Teton Okandandas: they are about two +hundred men in number, and their chief residence is on both sides of the +Missouri, between the Chayenne and Teton rivers. In their persons they +are rather ugly and ill made, their legs and arms being too small, their +cheekbones high, and their eyes projecting. The females, with the same +character of form, are more handsome; and both sexes appear cheerful and +sprightly; but in our intercourse with them we discovered that they were +cunning and vicious. + +The men shave the hair off their heads, except a small tuft on the top, +which they suffer to grow and wear in plaits over the shoulders; to this +they seem much attached, as the loss of it is the usual sacrifice at the +death of near relations. In full dress, the men of consideration wear +a hawk's feather, or calumet feather worked with porcupine quills, and +fastened to the top of the head, from which it falls back. The face and +body are generally painted with a mixture of grease and coal. Over the +shoulders is a loose robe or mantle of buffaloe skin dressed white, +adorned with porcupine quills loosely fixed so as to make a gingling +noise when in motion, and painted with various uncouth figures +unintelligible to us, but to them emblematic of military exploits, or +any other incident; the hair of the robe is worn next the skin in fair +weather, but when it rains the hair is put outside, and the robe is +either thrown over the arm, or wrapped round the body, all of which it +may cover. Under this in the winter season they wear a kind of shirt +resembling ours, and made either of skin or cloth, and covering the arms +and body. Round the middle is fixed a girdle of cloth or procured +dressed elk-skin, about an inch in width and closely tied to the body, +to this is attached a piece of cloth or blanket or skin about a foot +wide, which passes between the legs and is tucked under the girdle both +before and behind; from the hip to the ancle he is covered by leggings +of dressed antelope skins, with seams at the sides two inches in width, +and ornamented by little tufts of hair the produce of the scalps they +have made in war, which are scattered down the leg. The winter moccasins +are of dressed buffaloe-skin, the hair being worn inwards, and soaled +with thick elk-skin parchment: those for summer are of deer or elk-skin, +dressed without the hair, and with soals of elk-skin. On great +occasions, or wherever they are in full dress, the young men drag after +them the entire skin of a polecat fixed to the heel of the moccasin. +Another skin of the same animal is either tucked into the girdle or +carried in the hand, and serves as a pouch for their tobacco, or what +the French traders call the bois roule: this is the inner bark of a +species of red willow, which being dried in the sun or over the fire, is +rubbed between the hands and broken into small pieces, and is used alone +or mixed with tobacco. The pipe is generally of red earth, the stem made +of ash, about three or four feet long, and highly decorated with +feathers, hair and porcupine quills. + +The hair of the women is suffered to grow long, and is parted from the +forehead across the head, at the back of which it is either collected +into a kind of bag, or hangs down over the shoulders. Their moccasins +are like those of the men, as are also the leggings, which do not +however reach beyond the knee, where it is met by a long loose shift of +skin which reaches nearly to the ancles: this is fastened over the +shoulders by a string and has no sleeves, but a few pieces of the skin +hang a short distance down the arm. Sometimes a girdle fastens this skin +round the waist, and over all is thrown a robe like that worn by the +men. They seem fond of dress. Their lodges are very neatly constructed, +in the same form as those of the Yanktons; they consist of about one +hundred cabins, made of white buffaloe hide dressed, with a larger one +in the centre for holding councils and dances. They are built round with +poles about fifteen or twenty feet high, covered with white skins; these +lodges may be taken to pieces, packed up, and carried with the nation +wherever they go, by dogs which bear great burdens. The women are +chiefly employed in dressing buffaloe skins: they seem perfectly well +disposed, but are addicted to stealing any thing which they can take +without being observed. This nation, although it makes so many ravages +among its neighbours, is badly supplied with guns. The water which they +carry with them is contained chiefly in the paunches of deer and other +animals, and they make use of wooden bowls. Some had their heads shaved, +which we found was a species of mourning for relations. Another usage, +on these occasions, is to run arrows through the flesh both above and +below the elbow. + +While on shore to-day we witnessed a quarrel between two squaws, which +appeared to be growing every moment more boisterous, when a man came +forward, at whose approach every one seemed terrified and ran. He took +the squaws, and without any ceremony whipped them severely; on inquiring +into the nature of such summary justice, we learnt that this man was an +officer well known to this and many other tribes. His duty is to keep +the peace, and the whole interior police of the village is confided to +two or three of these officers, who are named by the chief and remain in +power some days, at least till the chief appoints a successor; they seem +to be a sort of constable or sentinel, since they are always on the +watch to keep tranquillity during the day, and guarding the camp in the +night. The short duration of their office is compensated by its +authority: his power is supreme, and in the suppression of any riot or +disturbance no resistance to him is suffered: his person is sacred, and +if in the execution of his duty he strikes even a chief of the second +class, he cannot be punished for this salutary insolence. In general +they accompany the person of the chief, and when ordered to any duty, +however dangerous, it is a point of honour rather to die than to refuse +obedience. Thus, when they attempted to stop us yesterday, the chief +ordered one of these men to take possession of the boat: he immediately +put his arms round the mast, and, as we understood, no force except the +command of the chief would have induced him to release his hold. Like +the other men their bodies are blackened, but their distinguishing mark +is a collection of two or three raven skins fixed to the girdle behind +the back in such a way, that the tails stick out horizontally from the +body. On his head too is a raven skin split into two parts, and tied so +as to let the beak project from the forehead. + +Thursday September 27. We rose early, and the two chiefs took off, as a +matter of course and according to their custom, the blanket on which +they had slept. To this we added a peck of corn as a present to each. +Captain Lewis and the chiefs went on shore to see a part of the nation +that was expected, but did not come. He returned at two o'clock, with +four of the chiefs and a warrior of distinction, called Wadrapa, (or on +his guard); they examined the boat and admired whatever was strange, +during half an hour, when they left it with great reluctance. Captain +Clarke accompanied them to the lodge of the grand chief, who invited +them to a dance, where, being joined by captain Lewis, they remained +till a late hour. The dance was very similar to that of yesterday. About +twelve we left them, taking the second chief and one principal warrior +on board: as we came near the boat the man who steered the periogue, by +mistake, brought her broadside against the boat's cable, and broke it. +We called up all hands to their oars; but our noise alarmed the two +Indians: they called out to their companions, and immediately the whole +camp crowded to the shore; but after half an hour they returned, leaving +about sixty men near us. The alarm given by the chiefs was said to be +that the Mahas had attacked us, and that they were desirous of assisting +us to repel it; but we suspected that they were afraid we meant to set +sail, and intended to prevent us from doing so; for in the night the +Maha prisoners had told one of our men, who understood the language, +that we were to be stopped. We therefore, without giving any indication +of our suspicion, prepared every thing for an attack, as the loss of our +anchor obliged to come to near a falling bank, very unfavourable for +defence. We were not mistaken in these opinions; for when in the +morning, + +Friday, September 28, after dragging unsuccessfully for the anchor, we +wished to set sail, it was with great difficulty that we could make the +chiefs leave the boat. At length we got rid of all except the great +chief; when just as we were setting out, several of the chief's soldiers +sat on the rope which held the boat to the shore. Irritated at this we +got every thing ready to fire on them if they persisted, but the great +chief said that these were his soldiers and only wanted some tobacco. We +had already refused a flag and some tobacco to the second chief, who had +demanded it with great importunity; but willing to leave them without +going to extremities, we threw him a carrot of tobacco, saying to him, +"You have told us that you were a great man, and have influence; now +show your influence, by taking the rope from those men, and we will then +go without any further trouble." This appeal to his pride had the +desired effect; he went out of the boat, gave the soldiers the tobacco, +and pulling the rope out of their hands delivered it on board, and we +then set sail under a breeze from the S.E. After sailing about two miles +we observed the third chief beckoning to us: we took him on board, and +he informed us that the rope had been held by the order of the second +chief, who was a double-faced man. A little farther on we were joined by +the son of the chief, who came on board to see his father. On his return +we sent a speech to the nation, explaining what we had done, and +advising them to peace; but if they persisted in their attempts to stop +us, we were willing and able to defend ourselves. After making six +miles, during which we passed a willow island on the south and one +sandbar, we encamped on another in the middle of the river. The country +on the south-side was a low prairie, that on the north highland. + +September 29. We set out early, but were again impeded by sandbars, +which made the river shallow; the weather was however fair; the land on +the north side low and covered with timber contrasted with the bluffs to +the south. At nine o'clock we saw the second chief and two women and +three men on shore, who wished us to take two women offered by the +second chief to make friends, which was refused; he then requested us to +take them to the other band of their nation, who were on the river not +far from us: this we declined; but in spite of our wishes they followed +us along shore. The chief asked us to give them some tobacco; this we +did, and gave more as a present for that part of the nation which we did +not see. At seven and a half miles we came to a small creek on the +southern side, where we saw great numbers of elk, and which we called +Notimber creek from its bare appearance. Above the mouth of this stream, +a Ricara band of Pawnees had a village five years ago: but there are no +remains of it except the mound which encircled the town. Here the second +chief went on shore. We then proceeded, and at the distance of eleven +miles encamped on the lower part of a willow island, in the middle of +the river, being obliged to substitute large stones in the place of the +anchor which we lost. + +September 30. The wind was this morning very high from the southeast, so +that we were obliged to proceed under a double-reefed mainsail, through +the rain. The country presented a large low prairie covered with timber +on the north side; on the south, we first had high barren hills, but +after some miles it became of the same character as that on the opposite +side. We had not gone far when an Indian ran after us, and begged to be +carried on board as far as the Ricaras, which we refused: soon after, we +discovered on the hills at a distance, a great number of Indians, who +came towards the river and encamped ahead of us. We stopped at a +sandbar, at about eleven miles, and after breakfasting proceeded on a +short distance to their camp, which consisted of about four hundred +souls. We anchored one hundred yards from the shore, and discovering +that they were Tetons belonging to the band which we had just left: we +told them that we took them by the hand, and would make each chief a +present of tobacco; that we had been badly treated by some of their +band, and that having waited for them two days below, we could not stop +here, but referred them to Mr. Durion for our talk and an explanation of +our views: they then apologized for what had past, assured us that they +were friendly, and very desirous that we should land and eat with them: +this we refused, but sent the periogue on shore with the tobacco, which +was delivered to one of the soldiers of the chief, whom we had on board. +Several of them now ran along the shore after us, but the chief threw +them a twist of tobacco, and told them to go back and open their ears to +our counsels; on which they immediately returned to their lodges. We +then proceeded past a continuation of the low prairie on the north, +where we had large quantities of grapes, and on the south saw a small +creek and an island. Six miles above this, two Indians came to the bank, +looked at us about half an hour, and then went without speaking over the +hills to the southwest. After some time, the wind rose still higher, and +the boat struck a log, turned, and was very near taking in water. The +chief became so much terrified at the danger, that he hid himself in the +boat, and as soon as we landed got his gun and told us that he wanted to +return, that we would now see no more Tetons, and that we might proceed +unmolested: we repeated the advice we had already given, presented him +with a blanket, a knife, some tobacco, and after smoking with him he set +out. We then continued to a sandbar on the north side, where we +encamped, having come twenty and a half miles. In the course of the day +we saw a number of sandbars which impede the navigation. The only +animal which we observed was the white gull, then in great abundance. + +October 1st, 1804. The weather was very cold and the wind high from the +southeast during the night, and continued so this morning. At three +miles distance, we had passed a large island in the middle of the river, +opposite to the lower end of which the Ricaras once had a village on the +south side of the river: there are, however, no remnants of it now, +except a circular wall three or four feet in height, which encompassed +the town. Two miles beyond this island is a river coming in from the +southwest, about four hundred yards wide; the current gentle, and +discharging not much water, and very little sand: it takes its rise in +the second range of the Cote Noire or Black mountains, and its general +course is nearly east; this river has been occasionally called Dog +river, under a mistaken opinion that its French name was Chien, but its +true appellation is Chayenne, and it derives this title from the +Chayenne Indians: their history is the short and melancholy relation of +the calamities of almost all the Indians. They were a numerous people +and lived on the Chayenne, a branch of the Red river of Lake Winnipeg. +The invasion of the Sioux drove them westward; in their progress they +halted on the southern side of the Missouri below the Warreconne, where +their ancient fortifications still exist; but the same impulse again +drove them to the heads of the Chayenne, where they now rove, and +occasionally visit the Ricaras. They are now reduced, but still number +three hundred men. + +Although the river did not seem to throw out much sand, yet near and +above its mouth we find a great many sandbars difficult to pass. On both +sides of the Missouri, near the Chayenne, are rich thinly timbered +lowlands, behind which are bare hills. As we proceeded, we found that +the sandbars made the river so shallow, and the wind was so high, that +we could scarcely find the channel, and at one place were forced to drag +the boat over a sandbar, the Missouri being very wide and falling a +little. At seven and a half miles we came to at a point, and remained +three hours, during which time the wind abated: we then passed within +four miles two creeks on the south, one of which we called Centinel +creek, and the other Lookout creek. This part of the river has but +little timber; the hills are not so high as we have hitherto seen, and +the number of sandbars extends the river to more than a mile in breadth. +We continued about four and a half miles further, to a sandbar in the +middle of the river, where we spent the night, our progress being +sixteen miles. On the opposite shore, we saw a house among the willows +and a boy to whom we called, and brought him on board. He proved to be a +young Frenchman in the employ of a Mr. Valle a trader, who is now here +pursuing his commerce with the Sioux. + +Tuesday, October 2. There had been a violent wind from S.E. during the +night, which having moderated we set sail with Mr. Valle, who visited us +this morning and accompanied us for two miles. He is one of three French +traders who have halted here, expecting the Sioux who are coming down +from the Ricaras, where they now are, for the purposes of traffic. Mr. +Valle tells us that he passed the last winter three hundred leagues up +the Chayenne under the Black mountains. That river he represents as very +rapid, liable to sudden swells, the bed and shores formed of course +gravel, and difficult of ascent even for canoes. One hundred leagues +from its mouth it divides into two branches, one coming from the south, +the other at forty leagues from the junction enters the Black mountains. +The land which it waters from the Missouri to the Black mountains, +resembles the country on the Missouri, except that the former has even +less timber, and of that the greater proportion is cedar. The Chayennes +reside chiefly on the heads of the river, and steal horses from the +Spanish settlement, a plundering excursion which they perform in a +month's time. The Black mountains he observes are very high, covered +with great quantities of pine, and in some parts the snow remains during +the summer. There are also great quantities of goats, white bear, +prairie cocks, and a species of animal which from his description must +resemble a small elk, with large circular horns. + +At two and a half miles we had passed a willow island on the south, on +the north side of the river were dark bluffs, and on the south low rich +prairies. We took a meridian altitude on our arrival at the upper end of +the isthmus of the bend, which we called the Lookout bend, and found the +latitude to be 44° 19' 36". This bend is nearly twenty miles round, and +not more than two miles across. + +In the afternoon we heard a shot fired, and not long after observed some +Indians on a hill: one of them came to the shore and wished us to land, +as there were twenty lodges of Yanktons or Boisbrule there; we declined +doing so, telling him that we had already seen his chiefs, and that they +might learn from Mr. Durion the nature of the talk we had delivered to +them. At nine miles we came to the lower point of a long island on the +north, the banks of the south side of the river being high, those of the +north forming a low rich prairie. We coasted along this island, which we +called Caution island, and after passing a small creek on the south +encamped on a sandbar in the middle of the river, having made twelve +miles. The wind changed to the northwest, and became very high and cold. +The current of the river is less rapid, and the water though of the same +colour contains less sediment than below the Chayenne, but its width +continues the same. We were not able to hunt to-day; for as there are so +many Indians in the neighbourhood, we were in constant expectation of +being attacked, and were therefore forced to keep the party together and +be on our guard. + +Wednesday, October 3. The wind continued so high from the northwest, +that we could not set out till after seven: we then proceeded till +twelve o'clock, and landed on a bar towards the south, where we +examined the periogues, and the forecastle of the boat, and found that +the mice had cut several bags of corn, and spoiled some of our clothes: +about one o'clock an Indian came running to the shore with a turkey on +his back: several others soon joined him, but we had no intercourse with +them. We then went on for three miles, but the ascent soon became so +obstructed by sandbars and shoal water, that after attempting in vain +several channels, we determined to rest for the night under some high +bluffs on the south, and send out to examine the best channel. We had +made eight miles along high bluffs on each side. The birds we saw were +the white gulls and the brant which were flying to the southward in +large flocks. + +Thursday, 4th. On examination we found that there was no outlet +practicable for us in this channel, and that we must retread our steps. +We therefore returned three miles, and attempted another channel in +which we were more fortunate. The Indians were in small numbers on the +shore, and seemed willing had they been more numerous to molest us. They +called to desire that we would land, and one of them gave three yells +and fired a ball ahead of the boat: we however took no notice of it, but +landed on the south to breakfast. One of these Indians swam across and +begged for some powder, we gave him a piece of tobacco only. At eight +and a half miles we had passed an island in the middle of the river, +which we called Goodhope island. At one and a half mile we reached a +creek on the south side about twelve yards wide, to which we gave the +name of Teal creek. A little above this is an island on the north side +of the current, about one and a half mile in length and three quarters +of a mile in breadth. In the centre of this island is an old village of +the Ricaras, called Lahoocat; it was surrounded by a circular wall, +containing seventeen lodges. The Ricaras are known to have lived therein +1797, and the village seems to have been deserted about five years +since; it does not contain much timber. We encamped on a sandbar making +out from the upper end of this island; our journey to-day being twelve +miles. + +Friday, October 5. The weather was very cold: yesterday evening and this +morning there was a white frost. We sailed along the highlands on the +north side, passing a small creek on the south, between three and four +miles. At seven o'clock we heard some yells and saw three Indians of the +Teton band, who asked us to come on shore and begged for some tobacco, +to all which we gave the same answer as hitherto. At eight miles we +reached a small creek on the north. At fourteen we passed an island on +the south, covered with wild rye, and at the head a large creek comes in +from the south, which we named Whitebrant creek, from seeing several +white brants among flocks of dark-coloured ones. At the distance of +twenty miles we came to on a sandbar towards the north side of the +river, with a willow island opposite; the hills or bluffs come to the +banks of the river on both sides, but are not so high as they are below: +the river itself however continues of the same width, and the sandbars +are quite as numerous. The soil of the banks is dark coloured, and many +of the bluffs have the appearance of being on fire. Our game this day +was a deer, a prairie wolf, and some goats out of a flock that was +swimming across the river. + +Saturday, October 6. The morning was still cold, the wind being from the +north. At eight miles we came to a willow island on the north, opposite +a point of timber, where there are many large stones near the middle of +the river, which seem to have been washed from the hills and high plains +on both sides, or driven from a distance down the stream. At twelve +miles we halted for dinner at a village which we suppose to have +belonged to the Ricaras; it is situated in a low plain on the river, and +consists of about eighty lodges, of an octagon form, neatly covered with +earth, placed as close to each other as possible, and picketed round. +The skin canoes, mats, buckets, and articles of furniture found in the +lodges, induce us to suppose that it had been left in the spring. We +found three different sorts of squashes growing in the village; we also +killed an elk near it, and saw two wolves. On leaving the village the +river became shallow, and after searching a long time for the main +channel, which was concealed among sandbars, we at last dragged the boat +over one of them rather than go back three miles for the deepest +channel. At fourteen and a half miles we stopped for the night on a +sandbar, opposite a creek on the north, called Otter creek, twenty-two +yards in width, and containing more water than is common for creeks of +that size. The sides of the river during the day are variegated with +high bluffs and low timbered grounds on the banks: the river is very +much obstructed by sandbars. We saw geese, swan, brants and ducks of +different kinds on the sandbars, and on shore numbers of the prairie +hen; the magpie too is very common, but the gulls and plover, which we +saw in such numbers below, are now quite rare. + +Sunday, October 7. There was frost again last evening, and this morning +was cloudy and attended with rain. At two miles we came to the mouth of +a river; called by the Ricaras, Sawawkawna, or Pork river; the party who +examined it for about three miles up, say that its current is gentle, +and that it does not seem to throw out much sand. Its sources are in the +first range of the Black mountains, and though it has now only water of +twenty yards width, yet when full it occupies ninety. Just below the +mouth is another village or wintering camp of the Ricaras, composed of +about sixty lodges, built in the same form as those passed yesterday, +with willow and straw mats, baskets and buffaloe-skin canoes remaining +entire in the camp. We proceeded under a gentle breeze from the +southwest: at ten o'clock we saw two Indians on the north side, who told +us they were a part of the lodge of Tartongawaka, or Buffaloe Medicine, +the Teton chief whom we had seen on the twenty-fifth, that they were on +the way to the Ricaras, and begged us for something to eat, which we of +course gave them. At seven and a half miles is a willow island on the +north, and another on the same side five miles beyond it, in the middle +of the river between highlands on both sides. At eighteen and a half +miles is an island called Grouse island, on which are the walls of an +old village; the island has no timber, but is covered with grass and +wild rye, and owes its name to the number of grouse that frequent it. We +then went on till our journey for the day was twenty-two miles: the +country presented the same appearance as usual. In the low timbered +ground near the mouth of the Sawawkawna, we saw the tracks of large +white bear, and on Grouse island killed a female blaireau, and a deer of +the black-tailed species, the largest we have ever seen. + +Monday, October 8. We proceeded early with a cool northwest wind, and at +two and a half miles above Grouse island, reached the mouth of a creek +on the south, then a small willow island, which divides the current +equally; and at four and a half miles came to a river on the southern +side where we halted. This river, which our meridian altitude fixes at +45° 39' 5" north latitude, is called by the Ricaras Wetawhoo; it rises +in the Black mountains, and its bed which flows at the mouth over a low +soft slate stone, is one hundred and twenty yards wide, but the water is +now confined within twenty yards, and is not very rapid, discharging mud +with a small proportion of sand: here as in every bend of the river, we +again observe the red berries resembling currants, which we mentioned +before. Two miles above the Wetawhoo, and on the same side, is a small +river called Maropa by the Indians; it is twenty yards in width, but so +dammed up by mud that the stream creeps through a channel of not more +than an inch in diameter, and discharges no sand. One mile further we +reached an island close to the southern shore, from which it is +separated by a deep channel of sixty yards. About half way a number of +Ricara Indians came out to see us. We stopped and took a Frenchman on +board, who accompanied us past the island to our camp on the north side +of the river, which is at the distance of twelve miles from that of +yesterday. Captain Lewis then returned with four of the party to see the +village; it is situated in the centre of the island, near the southern +shore, under the foot of some high, bald, uneven hills, and contains +about sixty lodges. The island itself is three miles long, and covered +with fields in which the Indians raise corn, beans, and potatoes. +Several Frenchmen living among these Indians as interpreters, or +traders, came back with captain Lewis, and particularly a Mr. +Gravelines, a man who has acquired the language. On setting out we had a +low prairie covered with timber on the north, and on the south +highlands, but at the mouth of the Wetawhoo the southern country +changes, and a low timbered plain extends along the south, while the +north has a ridge of barren hills during the rest of the day's course. + +Tuesday, 9th. The wind was so cold and high last night and during all +the day, that we could not assemble the Indians in council; but some of +the party went to the village. We received the visits of the three +principal chiefs with many others, to whom we gave some tobacco, and +told them that we would speak to them to-morrow. The names of these +chiefs were first, Kakawissassa or Lighting Crow; second chief Pocasse +or Hay; third chief Piaheto or Eagle's Feather. Notwithstanding the high +waves, two or three squaws rowed to us in little canoes made of a single +buffaloe skin, stretched over a frame of boughs interwoven like a +basket, and with the most perfect composure. The object which appeared +to astonish the Indians most, was captain Clark's servant York, a +remarkable stout strong negro. They had never seen a being of that +colour, and therefore flocked round him to examine the extraordinary +monster. By way of amusement he told them that he had once been a wild +animal, and caught and tamed by his master, and to convince them, showed +them feats of strength which added to his looks made him more terrible +than we wished him to be. Opposite our camp is a small creek on the +south, which we distinguished by the name of the chief Kakawissassa. + +Wednesday, 10th. The weather was this day fine, and as we were desirous +of assembling the whole nation at once, we despatched Mr. Gravelines, +who with Mr. Tabeau another French trader had breakfeasted with us, to +invite the chiefs of the two upper villages to a conference. They all +assembled at one o'clock, and after the usual ceremonies we addressed +them in the same way in which we had already spoken to the Ottoes and +Sioux: we then made or acknowledged three chiefs, one for each of the +three villages; giving to each a flag, a medal, a red coat, a cocked hat +and feather, also some goods, paint and tobacco, which they divided +among themselves: after this the airgun was exhibited, very much to +their astonishment, nor were they less surprised at the colour and +manner of York. On our side we were equally gratified at discovering +that these Ricaras made use of no spirituous liquors of any kind, the +example of the traders who bring it to them so far from tempting having +in fact disgusted them. Supposing that it was as agreeable to them as to +the other Indians, we had at first offered them whiskey; but they +refused it with this sensible remark, that they were surprised that +their father should present to them a liquor which would make them +fools. On another occasion they observed to Mr. Tabeau, that no man +could be their friend who tried to lead them into such follies. The +council being over they retired to consult on their answer, and the next +morning, + +Thursday, 11th, at eleven o'clock we again met in council at our camp. +The grand chief made a short speech of thanks for the advice we had +given, and promised to follow it; adding that the door was now open and +no one dare shut it, and that we might depart whenever we pleased, +alluding to the treatment we had received from the Sioux: they also +brought us some corn, beans, and dried squashes, and in return we gave +them a steel mill with which they were much pleased. At one o'clock we +left our camp with the grand chief and his nephew on board, and at about +two miles anchored below a creek on the south, separating the second and +third village of the Ricaras, which are about half a mile distant from +each other. We visited both the villages, and sat conversing with the +chiefs for some time, during which they presented us with a bread made +of corn and beans, also corn and beans boiled, and a large rich bean +which they take from the mice of the prairie, who discover and collect +it. These two villages are placed near each other in a high smooth +prairie; a fine situation, except that having no wood the inhabitants +are obliged to go for it across the river to a timbered lowland opposite +to them. We told them that we would speak to them in the morning at +their villages separately. + +Thursday, 12th. Accordingly after breakfast we went on shore to the +house of the chief of the second village named Lassel, where we found +his chiefs and warriors. They made us a present of about seven bushels +of corn, a pair of leggings, a twist of their tobacco, and the seeds of +two different species of tobacco. The chief then delivered a speech +expressive of his gratitude for the presents and the good counsels which +we had given him; his intention of visiting his great father but for +fear of the Sioux; and requested us to take one of the Ricara chiefs up +to the Mandans and negociate a peace between the two nations. To this we +replied in a suitable way, and then repaired to the third village. Here +we were addressed by the chief in nearly the same terms as before, and +entertained with a present of ten bushels of corn, some beans, dried +pumpkins, and squashes. After we had answered and explained the +magnitude and power of the United States, the three chiefs came with us +to the boat. We gave them some sugar, a little salt, and a sunglass. Two +of them then left us, and the chief of the third, by name Ahketahnasha +or Chief of the Town, accompanied us to the Mandans. At two o'clock we +left the Indians, who crowded to the shore to take leave of us, and +after making seven and a half miles landed on the north side, and had a +clear, cool, pleasant evening. + +The three villages which we have just left, are the residence of a +nation called the Ricaras. They were originally colonies of Pawnees, who +established themselves on the Missouri, below the Chayenne, where the +traders still remember that twenty years ago they occupied a number of +villages. From that situation a part of the Ricaras emigrated to the +neighbourhood of the Mandans, with whom they were then in alliance. The +rest of the nation continued near the Chayenne till the year 1797, in +the course of which, distressed by their wars with the Sioux, they +joined their countrymen near the Mandans. Soon after a new war arose +between the Ricaras and the Mandans, in consequence of which the former +came down the river to their present position. In this migration those +who had first gone to the Mandans kept together, and now live in the two +lower villages, which may thence be considered as the Ricaras proper. +The third village was composed of such remnants of the villages as had +survived the wars, and as these were nine in number a difference of +pronunciation and some difference of language may be observed between +them and the Ricaras proper, who do not understand all the words of +these wanderers. The villages are within the distance of four miles of +each other, the two lower ones consisting of between one hundred and +fifty and two hundred men each, the third of three hundred. The Ricaras +are tall and well proportioned, the women handsome and lively, and as +among other savages to them falls all the drudgery of the field and the +labours of procuring subsistence, except that of hunting: both sexes are +poor, but kind and generous, and although they receive with thankfulness +what is given to them, do not beg as the Sioux did, though this praise +should be qualified by mentioning that an axe was stolen last night +from our cooks. The dress of the men is a simple pair of moccasins, +legings, and a cloth round the middle, over which a buffaloe robe is +occasionally thrown, with their hair, arms and ears decorated with +different ornaments. The women wear moccasins, legings, a long shirt +made of goats' skins, generally white and fringed, which is tied round +the waist; to those they add, like the men, a buffaloe robe without the +hair, in summer. These women are handsomer than the Sioux; both of them +are however, disposed to be amorous, and our men found no difficulty in +procuring companions for the night by means of the interpreters. These +interviews were chiefly clandestine, and were of course to be kept a +secret from the husband or relations. The point of honour indeed, is +completely reversed among the Ricaras; that the wife or the sister +should submit to a stranger's embraces without the consent of her +husband or brother, is a cause of great disgrace and offence, especially +as for many purposes of civility or gratitude the husband and brother +will themselves present to a stranger these females, and be gratified by +attentions to them. The Sioux had offered us squaws, but while we +remained there having declined, they followed us with offers of females +for two days. The Ricaras had been equally accommodating; we had equally +withstood their temptation; but such was their desire to oblige that two +very handsome young squaws were sent on board this evening, and +persecuted us with civilities. The black man York participated largely +in these favours; for instead of inspiring any prejudice, his colour +seemed to procure him additional advantages from the Indians, who +desired to preserve among them some memorial of this wonderful stranger. +Among other instances of attention, a Ricara invited him into his house +and presenting his wife to him, retired to the outside of the door: +while there one of York's comrades who was looking for him came to the +door, but the gallant husband would permit no interruption before a +reasonable time had elapsed. + +The Ricara lodges are in a circular or octagonal form, and generally +about thirty or forty feet in diameter: they are made by placing forked +posts about six feet high round the circumference of the circle; these +are joined by poles from one fork to another, which are supported also +by other forked poles slanting from the ground: in the centre of the +lodge are placed four higher forks, about fifteen feet in length, +connected together by beams; from these to the lower poles the rafters +of the roof are extended so as to leave a vacancy in the middle for the +smoke: the frame of the building is then covered with willow branches, +with which is interwoven grass, and over this mud or clay: the aperture +for the door is about four feet wide, and before it is a sort of entry +about ten feet from the lodge. They are very warm and compact. + +They cultivate maize or Indian corn, beans, pumpkins, watermelons, +squashes, and a species of tobacco peculiar to themselves. + +Their commerce is chiefly with the traders who supply them with goods in +return for peltries, which they procure not only by their own hunting, +but in exchange for corn from their less civilized neighbours. The +object chiefly in demand seemed to be red paint, but they would give any +thing they had to spare for the most trifling article. One of the men +to-day gave an Indian a hook made out of a pin, and he gave him in +return a pair of moccasins. + +They express a disposition to keep at peace with all nations, but they +are well armed with fusils, and being much under the influence of the +Sioux, who exchanged the goods which they get from the British for +Ricara corn, their minds are sometimes poisoned and they cannot be +always depended on. At the present moment they are at war with the +Mandans. We are informed by Mr. Gravelines, who had passed through that +country, that the Yankton or Jacques river rises about forty miles to +the east or northeast of this place, the Chayenne branch of the Red +river about twenty miles further, passing the Sioux, and the St. Peter's +about eighty. + +Saturday, 13th. In the morning our visitors left us, except the brother +of the chief who accompanies us and one of the squaws. We passed at an +early hour a camp of Sioux on the north bank, who merely looked at us +without saying a word, and from the character of the tribe we did not +solicit a conversation. At ten and a half miles we reached the mouth of +a creek on the north, which takes its rise from some ponds a short +distance to the northeast: to this stream we gave the name of Stoneidol +creek, for after passing a willow and sand island just above its mouth, +we discovered that a few miles back from the Missouri there are two +stones resembling human figures, and a third like a dog; all which are +objects of great veneration among the Ricaras. Their history would adorn +the metamorphoses of Ovid. A young man was deeply enamoured with a girl +whose parents refused their consent to the marriage. The youth went out +into the fields to mourn his misfortunes; a sympathy of feeling led the +lady to the same spot, and the faithful dog would not cease to follow +his master. After wandering together and having nothing but grapes to +subsist on, they were at last converted into stone, which beginning at +the feet gradually invaded the nobler parts leaving nothing unchanged +but a bunch of grapes which the female holds in her hands to this day. +Whenever the Ricaras pass these sacred stones, they stop to make some +offering of dress to propitiate these deities. Such is the account given +by the Ricara chief which we had no mode of examining, except that we +found one part of the story very agreeably confirmed; for on the river +near where the event is said to have occurred, we found a greater +abundance of fine grapes than we had yet seen. Above this is a small +creek four and a half miles from Stoneidol creek, which is fifteen yards +wide, comes in from the south, and received from us the name of Pocasse +or Hay creek, in honour of the chief of the second village. Above the +Ricara island, the Missouri becomes narrow and deeper, the sandbars +being generally confined to the points; the current too is much more +gentle; the timber on the lowlands is also in much greater quantities, +though the high grounds are still naked. We proceeded on under a fine +breeze from the southeast, and after making eighteen miles encamped on +the north near a timbered low plain, after which we had some rain and +the evening was cold. The hunters killed one deer only. + +Sunday, 14th. We set out in the rain which continued during the day. At +five miles we came to a creek on the south, about fifteen yards wide, +and named by us Piaheto or Eagle's Feather, in honour of the third chief +of the Ricaras. After dinner we stopped on a sandbar, and executed the +sentence of a court martial which inflicted corporal punishment on one +of the soldiers. This operation affected the Indian chief very sensibly, +for he cried aloud during the punishment: we explained the offence and +the reasons of it. He acknowledged that examples were necessary, and +that he himself had given them by punishing with death; but his nation +never whipped even children from their birth. After this we continued +with the wind from the northeast, and at the distance of twelve miles, +encamped in a cove of the southern bank. Immediately opposite our camp +on the north side are the ruins of an ancient fortification, the greater +part of which is washed into the river: nor could we distinguish more +than that the walls were eight or ten feet high. The evening is wet and +disagreeable, and the river which is somewhat wider than yesterday, +continues to have an unusual quantity of timber. The country was level +on both sides in the morning, but afterwards we passed some black bluffs +on the south. + +Monday, 15th. We stopped at three miles on the north a little above a +camp of Ricaras who are hunting, where we were visited by about thirty +Indians. They came over in their skin canoes, bringing us meat, for +which we returned them beads and fishhooks. About a mile higher we found +another encampment of Ricaras on the south, consisting of eight lodges: +here we again ate and exchanged a few presents. As we went we discerned +numbers of other Indians on both sides of the river; and at about nine +miles we came to a creek on the south, where we saw many high hills +resembling a house with a slanting roof; and a little below the creek an +old village of the Sharha or Chayenne Indians. The morning had been +cloudy, but the evening became pleasant, the wind from the northeast, +and at sunset we halted, after coming ten miles over several sandbars +and points, above a camp of ten Ricara lodges on the north side. We +visited their camp, and smoked and eat with several of them; they all +appeared kind and pleased with our attentions, and the fair sex received +our men with more than hospitality. York was here again an object of +astonishment; the children would follow him constantly, and if he +chanced to turn towards them, run with great terror. The country of +to-day is generally low and covered with timber on both sides, though in +the morning we passed some barren hills on the south. + +Tuesday, 16th. At this camp the squaw who accompanied the chief left us; +two others were very anxious to go on with us. Just above our camp we +passed a circular work or fort where the Sharha or Chayennes formerly +lived: and a short distance beyond, a creek which we called Chayenne +creek. At two miles is a willow island with a large sandbar on both +sides above it, and a creek, both on the south, which we called Sohaweh, +the Ricara name for girl; and two miles above a second creek, to which +we gave the name of Chapawt, which means woman in the same language. +Three miles further is an island situated in a bend to the north, about +a mile and a half long, and covered with cottonwood. At the lower end of +this island comes in a small creek from the north, called +Keetooshsahawna or Place of Beaver. At the upper extremity of the island +a river empties itself from the north: it is called Warreconne, or Elk +Shed their Horns, and is about thirty-five yards wide: the island itself +is named Carp island by Evans, a former traveller. As we proceeded there +were great numbers of goats on the banks of the river, and we soon after +saw large flocks of them in the water: they had been gradually driven +into the river by the Indians who now lined the shore so as to prevent +their escape, and were firing on them, while sometimes boys went into +the river and killed them with sticks: they seemed to be very +successful, for we counted fifty-eight which they had killed. We +ourselves killed some, and then passing the lodges to which these +Indians belonged, encamped at the distance of half a mile on the south, +having made fourteen and a half miles. We were soon visited by numbers +of these Ricaras, who crossed the river hallooing and singing: two of +them then returned for some goats' flesh and buffaloe meat dried and +fresh, with which they made a feast that lasted till late at night, and +caused much music and merriment. + +Wednesday 17th. The weather was pleasant: we passed a low ground covered +with small timber on the south, and barren hills on the north which come +close to the river; the wind from the northwest then become so strong +that we could not move after ten o'clock, until late in the afternoon, +when we were forced to use the towline, and we therefore made only six +miles. We all went out hunting and examining the country. The goats, of +which we see large flocks coming to the north bank of the river, spend +the summer, says Mr. Gravelines, in the plains east of the Missouri, and +at the present season are returning to the Black mountains, where they +subsist on leaves and shrubbery during the winter, and resume their +migrations in the spring. We also saw buffaloe, elk, and deer, and a +number of snakes; a beaver house too was seen, and we caught a +whippoorwill of a small and uncommon kind: the leaves are fast falling; +the river wider than usual and full of sandbars: and on the sides of the +hills are large stones, and some rock of a brownish colour in the +southern bend below us. Our latitude by observation was 46° 23' 57". + +Thursday 18. After three miles we reached the mouth of Le Boulet or +Cannonball river: this stream rises in the Black mountains, and falls +into the Missouri on the south; its channel is about one hundred and +forty yards wide, though the water is now confined within forty, and its +name is derived from the numbers of perfectly round large stones on the +shore and in the bluffs just above. We here met with two Frenchmen in +the employ of Mr. Gravelines, who had been robbed by the Mandans of +their traps, furs, and other articles, and were descending the river in +a periogue, but they turned back with us in expectation of obtaining +redress through our means. At eight miles is a creek on the north, about +twenty-eight yards wide, rising in the northeast, and called Chewah or +Fish river; one mile above this is another creek on the south: we +encamped on a sandbar to the south, at the distance of thirteen miles, +all of which we had made with oars and poles. Great numbers of goats are +crossing the river and directing their course to the westward; we also +saw a herd of buffaloe and of elk; a pelican too was killed, and six +fallow deer, having found, as the Ricaras informed us, that there are +none of the black-tail species as high up as this place. The country is +in general level and fine, with broken short high grounds, low timbered +mounds on the river, and a rugged range of hills at a distance. + +Friday 19. We set sail with a fine morning, and a southeast wind, and at +two and a half miles passed a creek on the north side: at eleven and a +half miles we came to a lake or large pond on the same side, in which +were some swans. On both banks of the Missouri are low grounds which +have much more timber than lower down the river: the hills are at one or +two miles distance from the banks, and the streams which rise in them +are brackish, and the mineral salts appear on the sides of the hills +and edges of the runs. In walking along the shore we counted fifty-two +herds of buffaloe, and three of elk, at a single view. Besides these we +also observed elk, deer, pelicans, and wolves. After seventeen and a +half miles we encamped on the north, opposite to the uppermost of a +number of round hills, forming a cone at the top, one being about +ninety, another sixty feet in height, and some of less elevation. Our +chief tells us that the calumet bird lives in the holes formed by the +filtration of the water from the top of these hills through the sides. +Near to one of these moles, on a point of a hill ninety feet above the +plain, are the remains of an old village which is high, strong, and has +been fortified; this our chief tells us is the remains of one of the +Mandan villages, and are the first ruins which we have seen of that +nation in ascending the Missouri: opposite to our camp is a deep bend to +the south, at the extremity of which is a pond. + +Saturday 30. We proceeded early with a southeast wind, which continued +high all day, and came to a creek on the north at two miles distance, +twenty yards wide. At eight miles we reached the lower point of an +island in the middle of the river, though there is no current on the +south. This island is covered with willows and extends about two miles, +there being a small creek coming in from the south at its lower +extremity. After making twelve miles we encamped on the south, at the +upper part of a bluff containing stone-coal of an inferior quality; +immediately below this bluff and on the declivity of a hill, are the +remains of a village covering six or eight acres, formerly occupied by +the Mandans, who, says our Ricara chief, once lived in a number of +villages on each side of the river, till the Sioux forced them forty +miles higher; whence after a few years residence, they moved to their +present position. The country through, which we passed has wider bottoms +and more timber than those we have been accustomed to see, the hills +rising at a distance and by gradual ascents. We have seen great numbers +of elk, deer, goats, and buffaloe, and the usual attendants of these +last, the wolves, who follow their movements and feed upon those who die +by accident, or who are too poor to keep pace with the herd; we also +wounded a white bear, and saw some fresh tracks of those animals which +are twice as large as the track of a man. + +Sunday 21. Last night the weather was cold, the wind high from the +northeast, and the rain which fell froze on the ground. At daylight it +began to snow, and continued till the afternoon, when it remained cloudy +and the ground was covered with snow. We however, set out early, and +just above our camp came to a creek on the south, called Chisshetaw, +about thirty yards wide and with a considerable quantity of water. Our +Ricara chief tells us, that at some distance up this river is situated a +large rock which is held in great veneration, and visited by parties who +go to consult it as to their own or their nations' destinies, all of +which they discern in some sort of figures or paintings with which it is +covered. About two miles off from the mouth of the river the party on +shore saw another of the objects of Ricara superstition: it is a large +oak tree, standing alone in the open prairie, and as it alone has +withstood the fire which has consumed every thing around, the Indians +naturally ascribe to it extraordinary powers. One of their ceremonies is +to make a hole in the skin of their necks through which a string is +passed and the other end tied to the body of the tree; and after +remaining in this way for some time they think they become braver. At +two miles a from our encampment we came to the ruins of a second Mandan +village, which was in existence at the same time with that just +mentioned. It is situated on the north at the foot of a hill in a +beautiful and extensive plain, which is now covered with herds of +buffaloe: nearly opposite are remains of a third village on the south of +the Missouri; and there is another also about two miles further on the +north, a little off the river. At the distance of seven miles we +encamped on the south, and spent a cold night. We procured to-day a +buffaloe and an otter only. The river is wide and the sandbars numerous, +and a low island near our encampment. + +Monday 22. In the morning we passed an old Mandan village on the south, +near our camp; at four miles another on the same side. About seven +o'clock we came to at a camp of eleven Sioux of the Teton tribe, who are +almost perfectly naked, having only a piece of skin or cloth round the +middle, though we are suffering from the cold. From their appearance, +which is warlike, and from their giving two different accounts of +themselves, we believe that they are either going to or returning from +the Mandans, to which nations the Sioux frequently make excursions to +steal horses. As their conduct displeased as, we gave them nothing. At +six we reached an island about one mile in length, at the head of which +is a Mandan village on the north in ruins, and two miles beyond a bad +sandbar. At eight miles are remains of another Mandan village on the +south; and at twelve miles encamped on the south. The hunters brought in +a buffaloe bull, and mentioned that of about three hundred which they +had seen, there was not a single female. The beaver is here in plenty, +and the two Frenchmen who are returning with us catch several every +night. + +These villages which are nine in number are scattered along each side of +the river within a space of twenty miles; almost all that remains of +them is the wall which surrounded them, the fallen heaps of earth which +covered the houses, and occasionally human skulls and the teeth and +bones of men, and different animals, which are scattered on the surface +of the ground. + +Tuesday 23. The weather was cloudy and we had some snow; we soon arrived +at five lodges where the two Frenchmen had been robbed, but the Indians +had left it lately as we found the fires still burning. The country +consists as usual of timbered low grounds, with grapes, rushes, and +great quantities of a small red acid fruit, known among the Indians by +a name signifying rabbitberries, and called by the French graisse de +buffle or buffaloe fat. The river too, is obstructed by many sandbars. +At twelve miles we passed an old village on the north, which was the +former residence of the Ahnahaways who now live between the Mandans and +Minnetarees. After making thirteen miles we encamped on the south. + +Wednesday 24. The day was again dark and it snowed a little in the +morning. At three miles we came to a point on the south, where the river +by forcing a channel across a former bend has formed a large island on +the north. On this island we found one of the grand chiefs of the +Mandans, who with five lodges was on a hunting excursion. He met his +enemy the Ricara chief, with great ceremony and apparent cordiality, and +smoked with him. After visiting his lodges, the grand chief and his +brother came on board our boat for a short time; we then proceeded and +encamped on the north, at seven miles from our last night's station and +below the old village of the Mandans and Ricaras. Here four Mandans came +down from a camp above, and our Ricara chief returned with them to their +camp, from which we auger favourably of their pacific views towards each +other. The land is low and beautiful, and covered with oak and +cottonwood, but has been too recently hunted to afford much game. + +25th. The morning was cold and the wind gentle from the southeast: at +three miles we passed a handsome high prairie on the south, and on an +eminence about forty feet above the water and extending back for several +miles in a beautiful plain, was situated an old village of the Mandan +nation which has been deserted for many years. A short distance above +it, on the continuation of the same rising ground are two old villages +of Ricaras, one on the top of the hill, the other in the level plain, +which have been deserted only five years ago. Above these villages is an +extensive low ground for several miles, in which are situated, at three +or four miles from the Ricara villages, three old villages of Mandans +near together. Here the Mandans lived when the Ricaras came to them for +protection, and from this they moved to their present situation above. +In the low ground the squaws raised their corn, and the timber, of which +there was little near the villages, was supplied from the opposite side +of the river, where it was and still is abundant. + +As we proceeded several parties of Mandans both on foot and horseback +came along the river to view us, and were very desirous that we should +land and talk to them: this we could not do on account of the sandbreaks +on the shore, but we sent our Ricara chief to them in a periogue. The +wind too having shifted to the southwest and being very high it required +all our precautions on board, for the river was full of sandbars which +made it very difficult to find the channel. We got aground several +times, and passed a very bad point of rocks, after which we encamped on +a sandpoint to the north, above a handsome plain covered with timber, +and opposite to a high hill on the south side at the distance of eleven +miles. Here we were joined by our Ricara chief, who brought an Indian to +the camp where he remained all night. + +26th. We set out early with a southwest wind, and after putting the +Ricara chief on shore to join the Mandans who were in great numbers +along it, we proceeded to the camp of the grand chiefs four miles +distant. Here we met a Mr. M'Cracken one of the northwest or Hudson Bay +company, who arrived with another person about nine days ago to trade +for horses and buffaloe robes. Two of the chiefs came on board with some +of their household furniture, such as earthern pots and a little corn +and went on with us; the rest of the Indians following on shore. At one +mile beyond the camp we passed a small creek, and at three more a bluff +of coal of an inferior quality on the south. After making eleven miles +we reached an old field where the Mandans had cultivated grain last +summer, and encamped for the night on the south side, about half a mile +below the first village of the Mandans. In the morning we had a willow +low ground on the south and highland on the north, which occasionally +varied in the course of the day. There is but little wood on this part +of the river, which is here subdivided into many channels and obstructed +by sandbars. As soon as we arrived a crowd of men, women, and children +came down to see us. Captain Lewis returned with the principal chiefs to +the village, while the others remained with us during the evening; the +object which seemed to surprise them most, was a cornmill fixed to the +boat which we had occasion to use, and delighted them by the ease with +which it reduced the grain to powder. Among others who visited us was +the son of the grand chief of the Mandans, who had his two little +fingers cut off at the second joints. On inquiring into this accident, +we found that it was customary to express grief for the death of +relations by some corporeal suffering, and that the usual mode was to +lose two joints of the little fingers, or sometimes the other fingers. +The wind blew very cold in the evening from the southwest. Two of the +party are affected with rheumatic complaints. + + + + + CHAPTER V. + + Council held with the Mandans--A prairie on fire, and a singular + instance of preservation--Peace established between the Mandans and + Ricaras--The party encamp for the winter--Indian mode of catching + goats--Beautiful appearance of northern lights--Friendly character + of the Indians--Some account of the Mandans--The Ahnahaways and the + Minnetarees--The party acquire the confidence of the Mandans by + taking part in their controversy with the Sioux--Religion of the + Mandans, and their singular conception of the term medicine--Their + tradition--The sufferings of the party from the severity of the + season--Indian game of billiards described--Character of the + Missouri, of the surrounding country, and of the rivers, creeks, + islands, &c. + + +Saturday, October 27. At an early hour we proceeded and anchored off the +village. Captain Clarke went on shore, and after smoking a pipe with the +chiefs, was desired to remain and eat with them. He declined on account +of his being unwell; but his refusal gave great offence to the Indians, +who considered it disrespectful not to eat when invited, till the cause +was explained to their satisfaction. We sent them some tobacco, and then +proceeded to the second village on the north, passing by a bank +containing coal, and a second village, and encamped at four miles on the +north, opposite to a village of Ahnahaways. We here met with a +Frenchman, named Jesseaume, who lives among the Indians with his wife +and children, and who we take as an interpreter. The Indians had flocked +to the bank to see us as we passed, and they visited in great numbers +the camp, where some of them remained all night. We sent in the evening +three young Indians with a present of tobacco for the chiefs of the +three upper villages, inviting them to come down in the morning to a +council with us. Accordingly the next day, + +Sunday, October 28, we were joined by many of the Minnetarees and +Ahnahaways from above, but the wind was so violent from the southwest +that the chiefs of the lower villages could not come up, and the +council was deferred till to-morrow. In the mean while we entertained +our visitors by showing them what was new to them in the boat; all +which, as well our black servant, they called Great Medicine, the +meaning of which we afterwards learnt. We also consulted the grand chief +of the Mandans, Black Cat, and Mr. Jesseaume, as to the names, +characters, &c. of the chiefs with whom we are to hold the council. In +the course of the day we received several presents from the women, +consisting of corn, boiled hominy, and garden stuffs: in our turn we +gratified the wife of the great chief with a gift of a glazed earthen +jar. Our hunter brought us two beaver. In the afternoon we sent the +Minnetaree chiefs to smoke for us with the great chief of the Mandans, +and told them we would speak in the morning. + +Finding that we shall be obliged to pass the winter at this place, we +went up the river about one and a half miles to-day, with a view of +finding a convenient spot for a fort, but the timber was too scarce and +small for our purposes. + +Monday, October 29. The morning was fine and we prepared our presents +and speech for the council. After breakfast we were visited by an old +chief of the Ahnahaways, who finding himself growing old and weak had +transferred his power to his son, who is now at war against the +Shoshonees. At ten o'clock the chiefs were all assembled under an awning +of our sails, stretched so as to exclude the wind which had become high; +that the impression might be the more forcible, the men were all +paraded, and the council opened by a discharge from the swivel of the +boat. We then delivered a speech, which like those we had already made +intermingled advice with assurances of friendship and trade: while we +were speaking the old Ahnahaway chief grew very restless, and observed +that he could not wait long as his camp was exposed to the hostilities +of the Shoshonees; he was instantly rebuked with great dignity by one of +the chiefs for this violation of decorum at such a moment, and remained +quiet during the rest of the council. Towards the end of our speech we +introduced the subject of our Ricara chief, with whom we recommended a +firm peace: to this they seemed well disposed, and all smoked with him +very amicably. We all mentioned the goods which had been taken from the +Frenchmen, and expressed a wish that they should he restored. This being +over, we proceeded to distribute the presents with great ceremony: one +chief of each town was acknowledged by a gift of a flag, a medal with +the likeness of the president of the United States, a uniform coat, hat +and feather: to the second chiefs we gave a medal representing some +domestic animals, and a loom for weaving; to the third chiefs medals +with the impressions of a farmer sowing grain. A variety of other +presents were distributed, but none seemed to give them more +satisfaction than an iron corn mill which we gave to the Mandans. + +The chiefs who were made to-day are: Shahaka or Big White, a first +chief, and Kagohami or Little Raven, a second chief of the lower village +of the Mandans, called Matootonha: the other chiefs of an inferior +quality who were recommended were, 1. Ohheenaw, or Big Man, a Chayenne +taken prisoner by the Mandans who adopted him, and he now enjoys great +consideration among the tribe. 2. Shotahawrora, or Coal, of the second +Mandan village which is called Rooptahee. We made Poscopsahe, or Black +Cat, the first chief of the village, and the grand chief of the whole +Mandan nation: his second chief is Kagonomokshe, or Raven man Chief; +inferior chiefs of this village were, Tawnuheo, and Bellahsara, of which +we did not learn the translation. + +In the third village which is called Mahawha, and where the Arwacahwas +reside, we made one first chief, Tetuckopinreha, or White Buffaloe robe +unfolded, and recognized two of an inferior order: Minnissurraree, or +Neighing Horse, and Locongotiha, or Old woman at a distance. + +Of the fourth village where the Minnetarees live, and which is called +Metaharta, we made a first chief, Ompsehara, or Black Moccasin: a second +chief, Ohhaw, or Little Fox. Other distinguished chiefs of this village +were, Mahnotah, or Big Thief, a man whom we did not see as he is out +fighting, and was killed soon after; and Mahserassa, or Tail of the +Calumet Bird. In the fifth village we made a first chief Eapanopa, or +Red Shield; a second chief Wankerassa, or Two Tailed Calumet Bird, both +young chiefs; other persons of distinction are, Shahakohopinnee, or +Little Wolf's Medicine; Ahrattanamoekshe, or Wolfman chief, who is now +at war, and is the son of the old chief we have mentioned, whose name is +Caltahcota, or Cherry on a Bush. + +The presents intended for the grand chief of the Minnetarees, who was +not at the council, were sent to him by the old chief Caltahcota; and we +delivered to a young chief those intended for the chief of the lower +village. The council was concluded by a shot from our swivel, and after +firing the airgun for their amusement, they retired to deliberate on the +answer which they are to give to-morrow. + +In the evening the prairie took fire, either by accident or design, and +burned with great fury, the whole plain being enveloped in flames: so +rapid was its progress that a man and a woman were burnt to death before +they could reach a place of safety; another man with his wife and child +were much burnt, and several other persons narrowly escaped destruction. +Among the rest a boy of the half white breed escaped unhurt in the midst +of the flames; his safety was ascribed to the great medicine spirit, who +had preserved him on account of his being white. But a much more natural +cause was the presence of mind of his mother, who seeing no hopes of +carrying off her son, threw him on the ground, and covering him with the +fresh hide of a buffaloe, escaped herself from the flames; as soon as +the fire had passed, she returned and found him untouched, the skin +having prevented, the flame from reaching the grass on which he lay. + +Tuesday 30. We were this morning visited by two persons from the lower +village, one the Big White the chief of the village, the other the +Chayenne called the Big Man; they had been hunting, and did not return +yesterday early enough to attend the council. At their request we +repeated part of our speech of yesterday, and put the medal round the +neck of the chief. Captain Clarke took a periogue and went up the river +in search of a good wintering place, and returned after going seven +miles to the lower point of an island on the north side, about one mile +in length; he found the banks on the north side high, with coal +occasionally, and the country fine on all sides; but the want of wood +and the scarcity of game up the river, induced us to decide on fixing +ourselves lower down during the winter. In the evening our men danced +among themselves to the great amusement of the Indians. + +Wednesday 31. A second chief arrived this morning with an invitation +from the grand chief of the Mandans, to come to his village where he +wished to present some corn to us and to speak with us. Captain Clarke +walked down to his village; he was first seated with great ceremony on a +robe by the side of the chief, who then threw over his shoulders another +robe handsomely ornamented. The pipe was then smoked with several of the +old men who were seated around the chief; after some time he began his +discourse, by observing that he believed what we had told him, and that +they should soon enjoy peace, which would gratify him as well as his +people, because they could then hunt without fear of being attacked, and +the women might work in the fields without looking every moment for the +enemy, and at night put off their moccasins, a phrase by which is +conveyed the idea of security when the women could undress at night +without fear of attack. As to the Ricaras, he continued, in order to +show you that we wish peace with all men, that chief, pointing to his +second chief, will go with some warriors back to the Ricaras with their +chief now here and smoke with that nation. When we heard of your coming +all the nations around returned from their hunting to see you, in hopes +of receiving large presents; all are disappointed and some discontented; +for his part he was not much so, though his village was. He added that +he would go and see his great father the president. Two of the steel +traps stolen from the Frenchmen were then laid before captain Clarke, +and the women brought about twelve bushels of corn. After the chief had +finished, captain Clarke made an answer to the speech and then returned +to the boat, where he found the chief of the third village and Kagohami +(the Little Raven) who smoked and talked about an hour. After they left +the boat the grand chief of the Mandans came dressed in the clothes we +had given him, with his two children, and begged to see the men dance, +in which they willingly gratified him. + +Thursday, November 1st. Mr. M'Cracken, the trader whom we found here, +set out to-day on his return to the British fort and factory on the +Assiniboin river, about one hundred and fifty miles from this place. He +took a letter from captain Lewis to the northwest company, inclosing a +copy of the passport granted by the British minister in the United +States. At ten o'clock the chiefs of the lower village arrived; they +requested that we would call at their village for some corn, that they +were willing to make peace with the Ricaras, that they had never +provoked the war between them, but as the Ricaras had killed some of +their chiefs, they had retaliated on them; that they had killed them +like birds, till they were tired of killing them, so that they would +send a chief and some warriors to smoke with them. In the evening we +dropped down to the lower village where captain Lewis went on shore, and +captain Clarke proceeded to a point of wood on the north side. + +Friday, November 2. He therefore went up to the village where eleven +bushels of corn were presented to him. In the meantime Captain Clarke +went down with the boats three miles, and having found a good position +where there was plenty of timber, encamped and began to fell trees to +build our huts. Our Ricara chief set out with one Mandan chief and +several Minnetaree and Mandan warriors; the wind was from the southeast, +and the weather being fine a crowd of Indians came down to visit us. + +Saturday 3. We now began the building of our cabins, and the Frenchmen +who are to return to St. Louis are building a periogue for the purpose. +We sent six men in a periogue to hunt down the river. We were also +fortunate enough to engage in our service a Canadian Frenchmen, who had +been with the Chayenne Indians on the Black mountains, and last summer +descended thence by the Little Missouri. Mr. Jessaume our interpreter +also came down with his squaw and children to live at our camp. In the +evening we received a visit from Kagohami or Little Raven, whose wife +accompanied him, bringing about sixty weight of dried meat, a robe and a +pot of meal. We gave him in return a piece of tobacco, to his wife an +axe and a few small articles, and both of them spent the night at our +camp. Two beavers were caught in traps this morning. + +Sunday 4. We continued our labours: the timber which we employ is large +and heavy, and chiefly consists of cottonwood and elm with some ash of +an inferior size. Great numbers of the Indians pass our camp on their +hunting excursions: the day was clear and pleasant, but last night was +very cold and there was a white frost. + +Monday 5. The Indians are all out on their hunting parties: a camp of +Mandans caught within two days one hundred goats a short distance below +us: their mode of hunting them is to form a large strong pen or fold, +from which a fence made of bushes gradually widens on each side: the +animals are surrounded by the hunters and gently driven towards this +pen, in which they imperceptibly find themselves inclosed and are then +at the mercy of the hunters. The weather is cloudy and the wind moderate +from the northwest. Late at night we were awaked by the sergeant on +guard to see the beautiful phenomenon called the northern light: along +the northern sky was a large space occupied by a light of a pale but +brilliant white colour: which rising from the horizon extended itself to +nearly twenty degrees above it. After glittering for some time its +colours would be overcast, and almost obscured, but again it would burst +out with renewed beauty; the uniform colour was pale light, but its +shapes were various and fantastic: at times the sky was lined with light +coloured streaks rising perpendicularly from the horizon, and gradually +expanding into a body of light in which we could trace the floating +columns sometimes advancing, sometimes retreating and shaping into +infinite forms, the space in which they moved. It all faded away before +the morning. At daylight, + +Tuesday 6, the clouds to the north were darkening and the wind rose high +from the northwest at eight o'clock, and continued cold during the day. +Mr. Gravelines and four others who came with us returned to the Ricaras +in a small periogue, we gave him directions to accompany some of the +Ricara chiefs to the seat of government in the spring. + +Wednesday 7. The day was temperate but cloudy and foggy, and we were +enabled to go on with our work with much expedition. + +Thursday 8. The morning again cloudy; our huts advance very well, and we +are visited by numbers of Indians who come to let their horses graze +near us: in the day the horses are let loose in quest of grass, in the +night they are collected and receive an armful of small boughs of the +cottonwood, which being very juicy, soft and brittle, form nutritious +and agreeable food: the frost this morning was very severe, the weather +during the day cloudy and the wind from the northwest. We procured from +an Indian a weasel perfectly white except the extremity of the tail +which was black: great numbers of wild geese are passing to the south, +but their flight is too high for us to procure any of them. + +November 10. We had again a raw day, a northwest wind, but rose early +in hopes of finishing our works before the extreme cold begins. A chief +who is a half Pawnee came to us and brought a present of half a +buffaloe, in return for which we gave him some small presents and a few +articles to his wife and son: he then crossed the river in a buffaloe +skin canoe; his wife took the boat on her back and carried it to the +village three miles off. Large flocks of geese and brant, and also a few +ducks are passing towards the south. + +Sunday 11. The weather is cold. We received the visit of two squaws, +prisoners from the Rock mountains, and purchased by Chaboneau. The +Mandans at this time are out hunting the buffaloe. + +Monday 12. The last night had been cold and this morning we had a very +hard frost: the wind changeable during the day, and some ice appears on +the edges of the rivers; swans too are passing to the south. The Big +White came down to us, having packed on the back of his squaw about one +hundred pounds of very fine meat: for which we gave him as well as the +squaw some presents, particularly an axe to the woman with which she was +very much pleased. + +Tuesday 13. We this morning unloaded the boat and stowed away the +contents in a storehouse which we have built. At half past ten ice began +to float down the river for the first time: in the course of the morning +we were visited by the Black Cat, Poscapsahe, who brought an Assiniboin +chief and seven warriors to see us. This man, whose name is Chechawk, is +a chief of one out of three bands of Assiniboins who wander over the +plains between the Missouri and Assiniboin during the summer, and in the +winter carry the spoils of their hunting to the traders on the +Assiniboin river, and occasionally come to this place: the whole three +bands consist of about eight hundred men. We gave him a twist of tobacco +to smoke with his people, and a gold cord for himself: the Sioux also +asked for whiskey which we refused to give them. It snowed all day and +the air was very cold. + +Wednesday 14. The river rose last night half an inch, and is now filled +with floating ice. This morning was cloudy with some snow: about seventy +lodges of Assiniboins and some Knistenaux are at the Mandan village, and +this being the day of adoption and exchange of property between them +all, it is accompanied by a dance, which prevents our seeing more than +two Indians to-day: these Knistenaux are a band of Chippeways whose +language they speak; they live on the Assiniboin and Saskashawan rivers, +and are about two hundred and forty men. We sent a man down on horseback +to see what had become of our hunters, and as we apprehend a failure of +provisions we have recourse to our pork this evening. Two Frenchmen who +had been below returned with twenty beaver which they had caught in +traps. + +Thursday 15. The morning again cloudy, and the ice running thicker than +yesterday, the wind variable. The man came back with information that +our hunters were about thirty miles below, and we immediately sent an +order to them to make their way through the floating ice, to assist them +in which we sent some tin for the bow of the periogue and a towrope. The +ceremony of yesterday seem to continue still, for we were not visited by +a single Indian. The swan are still passing to the south. + +Friday 16. We had a very hard white frost this morning, the trees are +all covered with ice, and the weather cloudy. The men this day moved +into the huts, although they are not finished. In the evening some +horses were sent down to the woods near us in order to prevent their +being stolen by the Assiniboins, with whom some difficulty is now +apprehended. An Indian came down with four buffaloe robes and some corn, +which he offered for a pistol, but was refused. + +Saturday, November 17. Last night was very cold, and the ice in the +river to-day is thicker than hitherto. We are totally occupied with our +huts, but received visits from several Indians. + +Sunday, November 18. To-day we had a cold windy morning; the Black Cat +came to see us, and occupied us for a long time with questions on the +usages of our country. He mentioned that a council had been held +yesterday to deliberate on the state of their affairs. It seems that not +long ago, a party of Sioux fell in with some horses belonging to the +Minnetarees, and carried them off; but in their flight they were met by +some Assiniboins, who killed the Sioux and kept the horses: a Frenchman +too who had lived many years among the Mandans, was lately killed on his +route to the British factory on the Assiniboin; some smaller differences +existed between the two nations, all of which being discussed, the +council decided that they would not resent the recent insults from the +Assiniboins and Knistenaux, until they had seen whether we had deceived +them or not in our promises of furnishing them with arms and ammunition. +They had been disappointed in their hopes of receiving them from Mr. +Evans and were afraid that we too, like him, might tell them what was +not true. We advised them to continue at peace, that supplies of every +kind would no doubt arrive for them, but that time was necessary to +organize the trade. The fact is that the Assiniboins treat the Mandans +as the Sioux do the Ricaras; by their vicinity to the British they get +all the supplies, which they withhold or give at pleasure to the remoter +Indians: the consequence is, that however badly treated, the Mandans and +Ricaras are very slow to retaliate lest they should* lose their trade +altogether. + +Monday 19. The ice continues to float in the river, the wind high from +the northwest, and the weather cold. Our hunters arrived from their +excursion below, and bring a very fine supply of thirty-two deer, eleven +elk, and five buffaloe, all of which was hung in a smokehouse. + +Tuesday 20. We this day moved into our huts which are now completed. +This place which we call Fort Mandan, is situated in a point of low +ground, on the north side of the Missouri, covered with tall and heavy +cottonwood. The works consist of two rows of huts or sheds, forming an +angle where they joined each other; each row containing four rooms, of +fourteen feet square and seven feet high, with plank ceiling*, and the +roof slanting so as to form a loft above the rooms, the highest part of +which is eighteen feet from the ground: the backs of the huts formed a +wall of that height, and opposite the angle the place of the wall was +supplied by picketing; in the area were two rooms for stores and +provisions. The latitude by observation is 47° 21' 47", and the computed +distance from the mouth of the Missouri sixteen hundred miles. + +In the course of the day several Indians came down to partake of our +fresh meat; among the rest, three chiefs of the second Mandan village. +They inform us that the Sioux on the Missouri above the Chayenne river, +threaten to attack them this winter; that these Sioux are much irritated +at the Ricaras for having made peace through our means with the Mandans, +and have lately ill treated three Ricaras who carried the pipe of peace +to them, by beating them and taking away their horses. We gave them +assurances that we would protect them from all their enemies. + +November 21st. The weather was this day fine: the river clear of ice and +rising a little: we are now settled in our new winter habitation, and +shall wait with much anxiety the first return of spring to continue our +journey. + +The villages near which we are established are five in number, and are +the residence of three distinct nations: the Mandans, the Ahnahaways, +and the Minnetarees. The history of the Mandans, as we received it from +our interpreters and from the chiefs themselves, and as it is attested +by existing monuments, illustrates more than that of any other nation +the unsteady movements and the tottering fortunes of the American +nations. Within the recollection of living witnesses, the Mandans were +settled forty years ago in nine villages, the ruins of which we passed +about eighty miles below, and situated seven on the west and two on the +east side of the Missouri. The two finding themselves wasting away +before the small-pox and the Sioux, united into one village, and moved +up the river opposite to the Ricaras. The same causes reduced the +remaining seven to five villages, till at length they emigrated in a +body to the Ricara nation, where they formed themselves into two +villages, and joined those of their countrymen who had gone before them. +In their new residence they were still insecure, and at length the three +villages ascended the Missouri to their present position. The two who +had emigrated together still settled in the two villages on the +northwest side of the Missouri, while the single village took a position +on the southeast side. In this situation they were found by those who +visited them in 1796; since which the two villages have united into one. +They are now in two villages, one on the southeast of the Missouri, the +other on the opposite side, and at the distance of three miles across. +The first, in an open plain, contains about forty or fifty lodges, built +in the same way as those of the Ricaras: the second, the same number, +and both may raise about three hundred and fifty men. + +On the same side of the river, and at the distance of four miles from +the lower Mandan village, is another called Mahaha. It is situated in a +high plain at the mouth of Knife river, and is the residence of the +Ahnahaways. This nation, whose name indicates that they were "people +whose village is on a hill," formerly resided on the Missouri, about +thirty miles below where they now live. The Assiniboins and Sioux forced +them to a spot five miles higher, where the greatest part of them were +put to death, and the rest emigrated to their present situation, in +order to obtain an assylum near the Minnetarees. They are called by the +French, Soulier Noir or Shoe Indians; by the Mandans, Wattasoons, and +their whole force is about fifty men. + +On the south side of the same Knife river, half a mile above the Mahaha +and in the same open plain with it, is a village of Minnetarees surnamed +Metaharta, who are about one hundred and fifty men in number. On the +opposite side of Knife river, and one and a half mile above this village +is a second of Minnetarees, who may be considered as the proper +Minnetaree nation. It is situated in a beautiful low plain, and contains +four hundred and fifty warriors. The accounts which we received of the +Minnetarees were contradictory. The Mandans say that this people came +out of the water to the east, and settled near them in their former +establishment in nine villages; that they were very numerous, and fixed +themselves in one village on the southern side of the Missouri. A +quarrel about a buffaloe divided the nation, of which two bands went +into the plains, and were known by the name of Crow and Paunch Indians, +and the rest moved to their present establishment. The Minnetarees +proper assert, on the contrary, that they grew where they now live, and +will never emigrate from the spot; the great spirit having declared that +if they moved they would all die. They also say that the Minnetarees +Metaharta, that is Minnetarees of the Willows, whose language with very +little variation is their own, came many years ago from the plains and +settled near them, and perhaps the two traditions may be reconciled by +the natural presumption that these Minnetarees were the tribe known to +the Mandans below, and that they ascended the river for the purpose of +rejoining the Minnetarees proper. These Minnetarees are part of the +great nation called Fall Indians, who occupy the intermediate country +between the Missouri and the Saskaskawan, and who are known by the name +of Minnetarees of the Missouri, and Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie; that +is, residing near or rather frequenting the establishment in the prairie +on the Saskaskawan. These Minnetarees indeed, told us that they had +relations on the Saskaskawan, whom they had never known till they met +them in war, and having engaged in the night were astonished at +discovering that they were fighting with men who spoke their own +language. The name of Grosventres, or Bigbellies is given to these +Minnetarees, as well as to all the Fall Indians. The inhabitants of +these five villages, all of which are within the distance of six miles, +live in harmony with each other. The Ahnahaways understand in part the +language of the Minnetarees: the dialect of the Mandans differs widely +from both; but their long residence together has insensibly blended +their manners, and occasioned some approximation in language, +particularly as to objects of daily occurrence and obvious to the +senses. + +November 22. The morning was fine, and the day warm. We purchased from +the Mandans a quantity of corn of a mixed colour, which they dug up in +ears from holes made near the front of their lodges, in which it is +buried during the winter: this morning the sentinel informed us that an +Indian was about to kill his wife near the fort; we went down to the +house of our interpreter where we found the parties, and after +forbidding any violence, inquired into the cause of his intending to +commit such as atrocity. It appeared that some days ago a quarrel had +taken place between him and his wife, in consequence of which she had +taken refuge in the house where the two squaws of our interpreter lived: +by running away she forfeited her life, which might have been lawfully +taken by the husband. About two days ago she had returned to the +village, but the same evening came back to the fort much beaten and +stabbed in three places, and the husband now came for the purpose of +completing his revenge. He observed that he had lent her to one of our +serjeants for a night, and that if he wanted her he would give her to +him altogether: we gave him a few presents and tried to persuade him to +take his wife home; the grand chief too happened to arrive at the same +moment, and reproached him with his violence, till at length they went +off together, but by no means in a state of much apparent love. + +November 23. Again we had a fair and warm day, with the wind from the +southeast: the river is now at a stand having risen four inches in the +whole. + +November 24. The wind continued from the same quarter and the weather +was warm: we were occupied in finishing our huts and making a large rope +of elk-skin to draw our boat on the bank. + +Sunday, November 25. The weather is still fine, warm and pleasant, and +the river falls one inch and a half. Captain Lewis went on an excursion +to the villages accompanied by eight men. A Minnetaree chief, the first +who has visited us, came down to the fort: his name was Waukerassa, but +as both the interpreters had gone with captain Lewis we were obliged to +confine our civilities to some presents with which he was much pleased: +we now completed our huts, and fortunately too, for the next day, + +Monday, November 26, before daylight the wind shifted to the northwest, +and blew very hard, with cloudy weather and a keen cold air, which +confined us much and prevented us from working: the night continued very +cold, and, + +Tuesday 27, the weather cloudy, the wind continuing from the northwest +and the river crowded with floating ice. Captain Lewis returned with two +chiefs Mahnotah, an Ahnahaway, and Minnessurraree a Minnetaree, and a +third warrior: they explained to us that the reason of their not having +come to see us, was that the Mandans had told them that we meant to +combine with the Sioux and cut them off in the course of the winter: a +suspicion increased by the strength of the fort, and the circumstance of +our interpreters having both removed there with their families: these +reports we did not fail to disprove to their entire satisfaction, and +amused them by every attention, particularly by the dancing of the men +which diverted them highly. All the Indians whom captain Lewis had +visited were very well disposed, and received him with great kindness, +except a principal chief of one of the upper villages, named +Mabpahpaparapassatoo or Horned Weasel, who made use of the civilized +indecorum of refusing to be seen, and when captain Lewis called he was +told the chief was not at home. In the course of the day seven of the +northwest company's traders arrived from the Assiniboin river, and one +of their interpreters having undertaken to circulate among the Indians +unfavourable reports, it become necessary to warn them of the +consequences if they did not desist from such proceedings. The river +fell two inches to-day and the weather became very cold. + +Wednesday 28. About eight o'clock last evening it began to snow and +continued till daybreak, after which it ceased till seven o'clock, but +then resumed and continued during the day, the weather being cold and +the river full of floating ice: about eight o'clock Poscopsahe came down +to visit us, with some warriors; we gave them presents and entertained +them with all that might amuse their curiosity, and at parting we told +them that we had heard of the British trader, Mr. Laroche, having +attempted to distribute medals and flags among them, but that those +emblems could not be received from any other than the American nation +without incurring the displeasure of their great father the president. +They left us much pleased with their treatment. The river fell one inch +to-day. + +Thursday 29. The wind is again from the northwest, the weather cold, and +the snow which fell yesterday and this night is thirteen inches in +depth. The river closed during the night at the village above, and fell +two feet; but this afternoon it began to rise a little. Mr. Laroche, the +principal of the seven traders, came with one of his men to see us; we +told him that we should not permit him to give medals and flags to the +Indians; he declared that he had no such intention, and we then suffered +him to make use of one of our interpreters, on his stipulating not to +touch any subject but that of his traffic with them. An unfortunate +accident occurred to sergeant Pryor, who in taking down the boat's mast +dislocated his shoulder, nor was it till after four trials that we +replaced it. + +Friday 30. About eight o'clock an Indian came to the opposite bank of +the river, calling out that he had something important to communicate, +and on sending for him, he told us that five Mandans had been met about +eight leagues to the southwest by a party of Sioux, who had killed one +of them, wounded two, and taken nine horses; that four of the Wattasoons +were missing, and that the Mandans expected an attack. We thought this +an excellent opportunity to discountenance the injurious reports against +us, and to fix the wavering confidence of the nation. Captain Clarke +therefore instantly crossed the river with twenty-three men strongly +armed, and circling the town approached it from behind. His unexpected +appearance surprised and alarmed the chiefs, who came out to meet him, +and conducted him to the village. He then told them that having heard of +the outrage just committed, he had come to assist his dutiful children; +that if they would assemble their warriors and those of the nation, he +would lead them against the Sioux and avenge the blood of their +countrymen. After some minutes conversation, Oheenaw the Chayenne arose; +"We now see," said he, "that what you have told us is true, since as +soon as our enemies threaten to attack us you come to protect us and are +ready to chastise those who have spilt our blood. We did indeed listen +to your good talk, for when you told us that the other nations were +inclined to peace with us, we went out carelessly in small parties, and +some have been killed by the Sioux and Ricaras. But I knew that the +Ricaras were liars, and I told their chief who accompanied you, that his +whole nation were liars and bad men; that we had several times made a +peace with them which they were the first to break; that whenever we +pleased we might shoot them like buffaloe, but that we had no wish to +kill them; that we would not suffer them to kill us, nor steal our +horses; and that although we agreed to make peace with them, because our +two fathers desired it, yet we did not believe that they would be +faithful long. Such, father, was my language to them in your presence, +and you see that instead of listening to your good counsels they have +spilt our blood. A few days ago two Ricaras came here and told us that +two of their villages were making moccasins, that the Sioux were +stirring them up against us, and that we ought to take care of our +horses; yet these very Ricaras we sent home as soon as the news reached +us to-day, lest our people should kill them in the first moment of grief +for their murdered relatives. Four of the Wattasoons whom we expected +back in sixteen days have been absent twenty-four, and we fear have +fallen. But father the snow is now deep, the weather cold, and our +horses cannot travel through the plains; the murderers have gone off: if +you will conduct us in the spring, when the snow has disappeared, we +will assemble all the surrounding warriors and follow you." + +Captain Clarke replied that we were always willing and able to defend +them; that he was sorry that the snow prevented their marching to meet +the Sioux, since he wished to show them that the warriors of their great +father would chastise the enemies of his obedient children who opened +their ears to his advice; that if some Ricaras had joined the Sioux, +they should remember that there were bad men in every nation, and that +they should not be offended at the Ricaras till they saw whether these +ill-disposed men were countenanced by the whole tribe; that the Sioux +possessed great influence over the Ricaras, whom they supplied with +military stores, and sometimes led them astray, because they were afraid +to oppose them: but that this should be the less offensive since the +Mandans themselves were under the same apprehensions from the +Assiniboins and Knistenaux, and that while they were thus dependant, +both the Ricaras and Mandans ought to keep on terms with their powerful +neighbours, whom they may afterwards set at defiance, when we shall +supply them with arms, and take them under our protection. + +After two hours conversation captain Clarke left the village. The chief +repeatedly thanked him for the fatherly protection he had given them, +observing that the whole village had been weeping all night and day for +the brave young man who had been slain, but now they would wipe their +eyes and weep no more as they saw that their father would protect them. +He then crossed the river on the ice and returned on the north side to +the fort. The day as well as the evening was cold, and the river rose to +its former height. + +Saturday, December 1. The wind was from the northwest, and the whole +party engaged in picketing the fort. About ten o'clock the half-brother +of the man who had been killed, came to inform us that six Sharhas or +Chayenne Indians had arrived, bringing a pipe of peace, and that their +nation was three days march behind them. Three Pawnees had accompanied +the Sharhas, and the Mandans being afraid of the Sharhas on account of +their being at peace with the Sioux, wished to put both them and the +three Pawnees to death; but the chiefs had forbidden it as it would be +contrary to our wishes. We gave him a present of tobacco, and although +from his connexion with the sufferer, he was more embittered against the +Pawnees than any other Mandan, yet he seemed perfectly satisfied with +our pacific counsels and advice. The Mandans, we observe, call all the +Ricaras by the name of Pawnees; the name of Ricaras being that by which +the nation distinguishes itself. + +In the evening we were visited by a Mr. Henderson, who came from the +Hudson bay company to trade with the Minnetarees. He had been about +eight days on his route in a direction nearly south, and brought with +him tobacco, beeds, and other merchandize to trade for furs, and a few +guns which are to be exchanged for horses. + +Sunday, December 2. The latter part of the evening was warm, and a thaw +continued till the morning, when the wind shifted to the north. At +eleven o'clock the chiefs of the lower village brought down four of the +Sharhas. We explained to them our intentions, and advised them to remain +at peace with each other: we also gave them a flag, some tobacco, and a +speech for their nation. These were accompanied by a letter to messrs. +Tabeau and Gravelines at the Ricara village, requesting them to preserve +peace if possible, and to declare the part which we should be forced to +take if the Ricaras and Sioux made war on those whom we had adopted. +After distributing a few presents to the Sharhas and Mandans, and +showing them our curiosities we dismissed them, apparently well pleased +at their reception. + +Monday, December 3. The morning was fine, but in the afternoon the +weather became cold with the wind from the northwest. The father of the +Mandan who was killed brought us a present of dried pumpkins and some +pemitigon, for which we gave him some small articles. Our offer of +assistance to avenge the death of his son seemed to have produced a +grateful respect from him, as well as from the brother of the deceased, +which pleased us much. + +Tuesday 4th. The wind continues from the northwest, the weather cloudy +and raw, and the river rose one inch, Oscapsahe and two young chiefs +pass the day with us. The whole religion of the Mandans consists in the +belief of one great spirit presiding over their destinies. This being +must be in the nature of a good genius since it is associated with the +healing art, and the great spirit is synonymous with great medicine, a +name also applied to every thing which they do not comprehend. Each +individual selects for himself the particular object of his devotion, +which is termed his medicine, and is either some invisible being or more +commonly some animal, which thenceforward becomes his protector or his +intercessor with the great spirit; to propitiate whom every attention is +lavished, and every personal consideration is sacrificed. "I was lately +owner of seventeen horses," said a Mandan to us one day, "but I have +offered them all up to my medicine and am now poor." He had in reality +taken all his wealth, his horses, into the plain, and turning them loose +committed them to the care of his medicine and abandoned them forever. +The horses less religious took care of themselves, and the pious votary +travelled home on foot. Their belief in a future state is connected with +this tradition of their origin: the whole nation resided in one large +village under ground near a subterraneous lake; a grape-vine extended +its roots down to their habitation and gave them a view of the light: +some of the most adventurous climed up the vine and were delighted with +the sight of the earth, which they found covered with buffaloe and rich +with every kind of fruits: returning with the grapes they had gathered, +their countrymen were so pleased with the taste of them that the whole +nation resolved to leave their dull residence for the charms of the +upper region; men, women and children ascended by means of the vine; but +when about half the nation had reached the surface of the earth, a +corpulent woman who was clambering up the vine broke it with her weight, +and closed upon herself and the rest of the nation the light of the sun. +Those who were left on earth made a village below where we saw the nine +villages; and when the Mandans die they expect to return to the original +seats of their forefathers; the good reaching the ancient village by +means of the lake, which the burden of the sins of the wicked will not +enable them to cross. + +Wednesday 5. The morning was cold and disagreeable, the wind from the +southeast accompanied with snow: in the evening there was snow again and +the wind shifted to the northeast: we were visited by several Indians +with a present of pumpkins, and by two of the traders of the northwest +company. + +Thursday 6. The wind was violent from the north northwest with some +snow, the air keen and cold. At eight o'clock A.M. the thermometer stood +at ten degrees above 0, and the river rose an inch and a half in the +course of the day. + +Friday, December 7. The wind still continued from the northwest and the +day is very cold: Shahaka the chief of the lower village came to apprise +us that the buffaloe were near, and that his people were waiting for us +to join them in the chase: captain Clark with fifteen men went out and +found the Indians engaged in killing the buffaloe, the hunters mounted +on horseback and armed with bows and arrows encircle the herd, and +gradually drive them into a plain or an open place fit for the movements +of horse; they then ride in among them, and singling out a buffaloe, a +female being preferred, go as close as possible and wound her with +arrows till they think they have given the mortal stroke; when they +pursue another till the quiver is exhausted: if, which rarely happens, +the wounded buffaloe attacks the hunter, he evades his blow by the +agility of his horse which is trained for the combat with great +dexterity. When they have killed the requisite number they collect their +game, and the squaws and attendants come up from the rear and skin and +dress the animals. Captain Clarke killed ten buffaloe, of which five +only were brought to the fort, the rest which could not be conveyed home +being seized by the Indians, among whom the custom is that whenever a +buffaloe is found dead without an arrow or any particular mark, he is +the property of the finder; so that often a hunter secures scarcely any +of the game he kills if the arrow happens to fall off: whatever is left +out at night falls to the share of the wolves, who are the constant and +numerous attendants of the buffaloe. The river closed opposite the fort +last night, an inch and a half in thickness. In the morning the +thermometer stood at one degree below 0. Three men were badly +frostbitten in consequence of their exposure. + +Saturday 8. The thermometer stood at twelve degrees below 0, that is at +forty-two degrees below the freezing point: the wind was from the +northwest. Captain Lewis with fifteen men went out to hunt the buffaloe; +great numbers of which darkened the prairies for a considerable +distance: they did not return till after dark, having killed eight +buffaloe and one deer. The hunt was, however, very fatiguing, as they +were obliged to make a circuit at the distance of more than seven miles; +the cold too, was so excessive that the air was filled with icy +particles resembling a fog, and the snow generally six or eight inches +deep and sometimes eighteen, in consequence of which two of the party +were hurt by falls, and several had their feet frostbitten. + +Sunday 9. The wind was this day from the east, the thermometer at seven +degrees above 0, and the sun shone clear: two chiefs visited us, one in +a sleigh drawn by a dog and loaded with meat. + +Monday 10. Captain Clarke who had gone out yesterday with eighteen men +to bring in the meat we had killed the day before, and to continue the +hunt, came in at twelve o'clock. After killing nine buffaloe and +preparing that already dead, he had spent a cold disagreeable night on +the snow, with no covering but a small blanket, sheltered by the hides +of the buffaloe they had killed. We observe large herds of buffaloe +crossing the river on the ice, the men who were frostbitten are +recovering, but the weather is still exceedingly cold, the wind being +from the north, and the thermometer at ten and eleven degrees below 0: +the rise of the river is one inch and a half. + +Tuesday 11. The weather became so intensely cold that we sent for all +the hunters who had remained out with captain Clarke's party, and they +returned in the evening several of them frostbitten. The wind was from +the north and the thermometer at sunrise stood at twenty-one below 0, +the ice in the atmosphere being so thick as to render the weather hazy +and give the appearance of two suns reflecting each other. The river +continues at a stand. Pocapsahe made us a visit to-day. + +Wednesday, December 12. The wind is still from the north, the +thermometer being at sunrise thirty-eight degrees below 0. One of the +Ahnahaways brought us down the half of an antelope killed near the fort; +we had been informed that all these animals return to the Black +mountains, but there are great numbers of them about us at this season +which we might easily kill, but are unwilling to venture out before our +constitutions are hardened gradually to the climate. We measured the +river on the ice, and find it five hundred yards wide immediately +opposite the fort. + +Thursday 13. Last night was clear and a very heavy frost covered the old +snow, the thermometer at sun rise being twenty degrees below 0, and +followed by a fine day. The river falls. + +Friday 14. The morning was fine, and the weather having moderated so +far, that the mercury stood at 0, captain Lewis went down with a party +to hunt; they proceeded about eighteen miles, but the buffaloe having +left the banks of the river they saw only two, which were so poor as not +to be worth killing, and shot two deer. Notwithstanding the snow we were +visited by a large number of the Mandans. + +Saturday 15. Captain Lewis finding no game returned to the fort hunting +on both sides of the river, but with no success. The wind being from the +north, the mercury at sunrise eight degrees below 0, and the snow of +last night an inch and a half in depth. The Indian chiefs continue to +visit us to-day with presents of meat. + +Sunday 16. The morning is clear and cold, the mercury at sunrise 22° +below 0. A Mr. Haney with two other persons from the British +establishment on the Assiniboin, arrived in six days with a letter from +Mr. Charles Chabouilles, one of the company, who with much politeness +offered to render us any service in his power. + +Monday 17. The weather to-day was colder than any we had yet +experienced, the thermometer at sunrise being 45° below 0, and about +eight o'clock it fell to 74° below the freezing point. From Mr. Haney, +who is a very sensible intelligent man, we obtained much geographical +information with regard to the country between the Missouri and +Mississippi, and the various tribes of Sioux who inhabit it. + +Tuesday 18. The thermometer at sunrise was 32° below 0. The Indians had +invited us yesterday to join their chace to-day, but the seven men whom +we sent returned in consequence of the cold, which was so severe last +night that we were obliged to have the sentinel relieved every half +hour. The northwest traders however left us on their return home. + +Wednesday 19. The weather moderated, and the river rose a little, +so that we were enabled to continue the picketing of the fort. +Notwithstanding the extreme cold, we observe the Indians at the village +engaged out in the open air at a game which resembled billiards more +than any thing we had seen, and which we inclined to suspect may have +been acquired by ancient intercourse with the French of Canada. From +the first to the second chief's lodge, a distance of about fifty yards, +was covered with timber smoothed and joined so as to be as level as the +floor of one of our houses, with a battery at the end to stop the rings: +these rings were of clay-stone and flat like the chequers for drafts, +and the sticks were about four feet long, with two short pieces at one +end in the form of a mace, so fixed that the whole will slide along the +board. Two men fix themselves at one end, each provided with a stick, +and one of them with a ring: they then run along the board, and about +half way slide the sticks after the ring. + +Thursday 20. The wind was from the N.W. the weather moderate, the +thermometer 24° above at sunrise. We availed ourselves of this change to +picket the fort near the river. + +Friday 21. The day was fine and warm, the wind N.W. by W. The Indian +who had been prevented a few days ago from killing his wife, came with +both his wives to the fort, and was very desirous of reconciling our +interpreter, a jealousy against whom on account of his wife's taking +refuge in his house, had been the cause of his animosity. A woman +brought her child with an abscess in the lower part of the back, and +offered as much corn as she could carry for some medicine; we +administered to it of course very cheerfully. + +Saturday, 22d. A number of squaws and men dressed like squaws brought +corn to trade for small articles with the men. Among other things we +procured two horns of the animal called by the French the Rock mountain +sheep, and known to the Mandans by the name of ahsahta. The animal +itself is about the size of a small elk or large deer: the horns winding +like those of a ram which they resemble also in texture, though larger +and thicker. + +Sunday, 23d. The weather was fine and warm like that of yesterday: we +were again visited by crowds of Indians of all descriptions, who came +either to trade or from mere curiosity. Among the rest Kogahami, the +Little Raven, brought his wife and son loaded with corn, and she then +entertained us with a favourite Mandan dish, a mixture of pumpkins, +beans, corn, and chokecherries with the stones, all boiled together in a +kettle, and forming a composition by no means unpalatable. + +Monday, 24th. The day continued warm and pleasant, and the number of +visitors became troublesome. As a present to three of the chiefs, we +divided a fillet of sheepskin which we brought for spunging into three +pieces each of two inches in width; they were delighted at the gift, +which they deemed of equal value with a fine horse. We this day +completed our fort, and the next morning being Christmas, + +Tuesday, 25th, we were awaked before day by a discharge of three +platoons from the party. We had told the Indians not to visit us as it +was one of our great medicine days; so that the men remained at home and +amused themselves in various ways, particularly with dancing in which +they take great pleasure. The American flag was hoisted for the first +time in the fort; the best provisions we had were brought out, and this, +with a little brandy, enabled them to pass the day in great festivity. + +Wednesday, 26th. The weather is again temperate, but no Indians have +come to see us. One of the northwest traders who came down to request +the aid of our Minnetaree interpreter, informs us that a party of +Minnetarees who had gone in pursuit of the Assiniboins who lately stole +their horses had just returned. As is their custom, they came back in +small detachments, the last of which brought home eight horses which +they had captured or stolen from an Assiniboin camp on Mouse river. + +Thursday, 27th. A little fine snow fell this morning and the air was +colder than yesterday, with a high northwest wind. We were fortunate +enough to have among our men a good blacksmith, whom we set to work to +make a variety of articles; his operations seemed to surprise the +Indians who came to see us, but nothing could equal their astonishment +at the bellows, which they considered as a very great medicine. Having +heretofore promised a more particular account of the Sioux, the +following may serve as a general outline of their history: + +Almost the whole of that vast tract of country comprised between the +Mississippi, the Red River of Lake Winnepeg, the Saskaskawan, and the +Missouri, is loosely occupied by a great nation whose primitive name is +Darcota, but who are called Sioux by the French, Sues by the English. +Their original seats were on the Mississippi, but they have gradually +spread themselves abroad and become subdivided into numerous tribes. Of +these, what may be considered as the Darcotas are the Mindawarcarton, or +Minowakanton, known to the French by the name of the Gens du Lac, or +People of the Lake. Their residence is on both sides of the Mississippi +near the falls of St. Anthony, and the probable number of their warriors +about three hundred. Above them, on the river St. Peter's, is the +Wahpatone, a smaller band of nearly two hundred men; and still farther +up the same river below Yellow-wood river are the Wahpatootas or Gens de +Feuilles, an inferior band of not more than one hundred men; while the +sources of the St. Peter's are occupied by the Sisatoones, a band +consisting of about two hundred warriors. + +These bands rarely if ever approach the Missouri, which is occupied by +their kinsmen the Yanktons and the Tetons. The Yanktons are of two +tribes, those of the plains, or rather of the north, a wandering race of +about five hundred men, who roam over the plains at the heads of the +Jacques, the Sioux, and the Red river; and those of the south, who +possess the country between the Jacques and Sioux rivers and the +Desmoine. But the bands of Sioux most known on the Missouri are the +Tetons. The first who are met on ascending the Missouri is the tribe +called by the French the Tetons of the Boise Brule or Burntwood, who +reside on both sides of the Missouri, about White and Teton rivers, and +number two hundred warriors. Above them on the Missouri are the Teton +Okandandas, a band of one hundred and fifty men living below the +Chayenne river, between which and the Wetarhoo river is a third band, +called Teton Minnakenozzo, of nearly two hundred and fifty men; and +below the Warreconne is the fourth and last tribe of Tetons of about +three hundred men, and called Teton Saone. Northward of these, between +the Assiniboin and the Missouri, are two bands of Assiniboins, one on +Mouse river of about two hundred men, and called Assiniboin Menatopa; +the other, residing on both sides of White river, called by the French +Gens de Feuilles, and amounting to two hundred and fifty men. Beyond +these a band of Assiniboins of four hundred and fifty men, and called +the Big Devils, wander on the heads of Milk, Porcupine, and Martha's +rivers; while still farther to the north are seen two bands of the same +nation, one of five hundred and the other of two hundred, roving on the +Saskaskawan. Those Assiniboins are recognised by a similarity of +language, and by tradition as descendents or seceders from the Sioux; +though often at war are still acknowledged as relations. The Sioux +themselves, though scattered, meet annually on the Jacques, those on the +Missouri trading with those on the Mississippi. + + + + + CHAPTER VI. + + The party increase in the favour of the Mandans--Description of a + buffaloe dance--Medicine dance--The fortitude with which the + Indians bear the severity of the season--Distress of the party for + want of provisions--The great importance of the blacksmith in + procuring it--Depredations of the Sioux--The homage paid to the + medicine stone--Summary act of justice among the Minnetarees--The + process by which the Mandans and Ricaras make beads--Character of + the Missouri, of the surrounding country, and of the rivers, + creeks, islands, &c. + + +Friday, 28th. The wind continued high last night, the frost severe, and +the snow drifting in great quantities through the plains. + +Saturday, 29th. There was a frost fell last night nearly one quarter of +an inch in depth, which continued to fall till the sun had gained some +height: the mercury at sunrise stood at 9° below 0: there were a number +of Indians at the fort in the course of the day. + +Sunday, 30th. The weather was cold, and the thermometer 20° below 0. We +killed one deer, and yesterday one of the men shot a wolf. The Indians +brought corn, beans, and squashes, which they very readily gave for +getting their axes and kettles mended. In their general conduct during +these visits they are honest, but will occasionally pilfer any small +article. + +Monday, 31. During the night there was a high wind which covered the ice +with hillocks of mixed sand and snow: the day was however fine, and the +Indians came in great numbers for the purpose of having their utensils +repaired. + +Tuesday, January 1, 1805. The new year was welcomed by two shot from the +swivel and a round of small arms. The weather was cloudy but moderate; +the mercury which at sunrise was at 18°, in the course of the day rose +to 34° above 0: towards evening it began to rain, and at night we had +snow, the temperature for which is about 0. In the morning we permitted +sixteen men with their music to go up to the first village, where they +delighted the whole tribe with their dances, particularly with the +movements of one of the Frenchmen who danced on his head. In return they +presented the dancers with several buffaloe robes and quantities of +corn. We were desirous of showing this attention to the village, because +they had received an impression that we had been wanting in regard for +them, and they had in consequence circulated invidious comparisons +between us and the northern traders: all these however they declared to +captain Clarke, who visited them in the course of the morning, were made +in jest. As captain Clarke was about leaving the village, two of their +chiefs returned from a mission to the Grosventres or wandering +Minnetarees. These people were encamped about ten miles above, and while +there one of the Ahnahaways had stolen a Minnetaree girl: the whole +nation immediately espoused the quarrel, and one hundred and fifty of +their warriors were marching down to revenge the insult on the +Ahnahaways. The chief of that nation took the girl from the ravisher, +and giving her to the Mandans requested their intercession. The +messengers went out to meet the warriors, and delivered the young damsel +into the hands of her countrymen, smoked the pipe of peace with them, +and were fortunate enough to avert their indignation and induce them to +return. In the evening some of the men came to the fort and the rest +slept in the village. Pocapsahe also visited us and brought some meat on +his wife's back. + +Wednesday, January 2. It snowed last night, and during this day the same +scene of gayety was renewed at the second village, and all the men +returned in the evening. + +Thursday 3. Last night it became very cold, and this morning we had some +snow: our hunters were sent out for buffaloe, but the game had been +frightened from the river by the Indians, so that they obtained only +one: they however killed a hare and a wolf. Among the Indians who +visited us was a Minnetaree who came to seek his wife: she had been much +abused and came here for protection, but returned with him; as we had no +authority to separate those whom even the Mandan rites had united. + +Friday 4. The morning was cloudy and warm, the mercury being 28° above +0: but towards evening the wind changed to northwest, and the weather +became cold. We sent some hunters down the river, but they killed only +one buffaloe and a wolf. We received the visit of Kagohami who is very +friendly, and to whom we gave a hankerchief and two files. + +Saturday 5. We had high and boisterous winds last night and this +morning: the Indians continue to purchase repairs with grain of +different kinds. In the first village there has been a buffaloe dance +for the last three nights, which has put them all into commotion, and +the description which we received from those of the party who visited +the village and from other sources, is not a little ludicrous: the +buffaloe dance is an institution originally intended for the benefit of +the old men, and practised at their suggestion. When buffaloe becomes +scarce they send a man to harangue the village, declaring that the game +is far off and that a feast is necessary to bring it back, and if the +village be disposed a day and place is named for the celebration of it. +At the appointed hour the old men arrive, and seat themselves +crosslegged on skins round a fire in the middle of the lodge with a sort +of doll or small image, dressed like a female, placed before them. The +young men bring with them a platter of provisions, a pipe of tobacco, +and their wives, whose dress on the occasion is only a robe or mantle +loosely thrown round the body. On their arrival each youth selects the +old man whom he means to distinguish by his favour, and spreads before +him the provisions, after which he presents the pipe and smokes with +him. Mox senex vir simulacrum parvæ puellæ ostensit. Tune egrediens +eætu, jecit effigium solo et superincumbens, senili ardore veneris +complexit. Hoc est signum. Denique uxor e turba recessit, et jactu +corporis, fovet amplexus viri solo recubante. Maritus appropinquans +senex vir dejecto vultu, et honorem et dignitatem ejus conservare +amplexu uxoris illum oravit. Forsitan imprimis ille refellit; dehine, +maritus multis precibus, multis lachrymis, et multis donis vehementer +intercessit. Tune senex amator perculsus miserecordia, tot precibus, tot +lachrymis, et tot donis, conjugali amplexu submisit. Multum ille +jactatus est, sed debilis et effoetus senectute, frustra jactatus est. +Maritus interdum stans juxta guadit multum honore, et ejus dignitati sic +conservata. Unus nostrum sodalium multum alacrior et potentior +juventute, hac nocte honorem quartour maritorum custodivit. + +Sunday 6. A clear cold morning with high wind: we caught in a trap a +large gray wolf, and last night obtained in the same way a fox who had +for some time infested the neighbourhood of the fort. Only a few Indians +visited us to-day. + +Monday 7. The weather was again clear and cold with a high northwest +wind, and the thermometer at sunrise 22° below 0; the river fell an +inch. Shahaka the Big White chief dined with us, and gave a connected +sketch of the country as far as the mountains. + +Tuesday 8. The wind was still from the northwest, the day cold, and we +received few Indians at the fort. Besides the buffaloe dance we have +just described, there is another called medicine dance, an entertainment +given by any person desirous of doing honour to his medicine or genius. +He announces, that on such a day he will sacrifice his horses, or other +property, and invites the young females of the village to assist in +rendering homage to his medicine; all the inhabitants may join in the +solemnity, which is performed in the open plain and by daylight, but the +dance is reserved for the virgins or at least the unmarried females, who +disdain the incumbrance or the ornament of dress. The feast is opened +by devoting the goods of the master of the feast to his medicine, which +is represented by a head of the animal itself, or by a medicine bag if +the deity be an invisible being. The young women then begin the dance, +in the intervals of which each will prostrate herself before the +assembly to challenge or reward the boldness of the youth, who are often +tempted by feeling or the hopes of distinction to achieve the adventure. + +Wednesday 9. The weather is cold, the thermometer at sunrise 21° below +0. Kagohami breakfasted with us, and captain Clarke with three or four +men accompanied him and a party of Indians to hunt, in which they were +so fortunate as to kill a number of buffaloe: but they were incommoded +by snow, by high and squally winds, and by extreme cold; several of the +Indians came to the fort nearly frozen, others are missing, and we are +uneasy, for one of our men who was separated from the rest during the +chase has not returned: In the morning, + +Thursday 10, however, he came back just as we were sending out five men +in search of him. The night had been excessively cold, and this morning +at sunrise the mercury stood at 40° below 0, or 72 below the freezing +point. He had however, made a fire and kept himself tolerably warm. A +young Indian, about thirteen years of age, also came in soon after. His +father who came last night to inquire after him very anxiously, had sent +him in the afternoon to the fort: he was overtaken by the night, and was +obliged to sleep on the snow with no covering except a pair of antelope +skin moccasins and leggings and a buffaloe robe: his feet being frozen +we put them into cold water, and gave him every attention in our power. +About the same time an Indian who had also been missing returned to the +fort, and although his dress was very thin, and he had slept on the snow +without a fire, he had not suffered the slightest inconvenience. We have +indeed observed that these Indians support the rigours of the season in +a way which we had hitherto thought impossible. A more pleasing +reflection occurred at seeing the warm interest which the situation of +these two persons had excited in the village, the boy had been a +prisoner and adopted from charity, yet the distress of the father proved +that he felt for him the tenderest affection, the man was a person of no +distinction, yet the whole village was full of anxiety for his safety +and when they came to us, borrowed a sleigh to bring them home with +ease, if they survived, or to carry their bodies if they had perished. + +Friday 11. We despatched three hunters to join the same number whom we +had sent below about seven miles to hunt elk. Like that of yesterday the +weather to-day was cold and clear, the thermometer standing at 38° below +0. Poscopsahe and Shotahawrora visited us, and past the night at the +fort. + +Saturday 12. The weather continues very cold, the mercury at sunrise +being 20° below 0. Three of the hunters returned, having killed three +elk. + +Sunday 13. We have a continuation of clear weather, and the cold has +increased, the mercury having sunk to 34° below 0. Nearly one half of +the Mandan nation passed down the river to hunt for several days; in +these excursions men, women and children, with their dogs, all leave the +village together, and after discovering a spot convenient for the game, +fix their tents; all the family bear their part in the labour, and the +game is equally divided among the families of the tribe. When a single +hunter returns from the chase with more than is necessary for his own +immediate consumption, the neighbours are entitled by custom to a share +of it: they do not however ask for it, but send a squaw, who without +saying any thing, sits down by the door of the lodge till the master +understands the hint, and gives her gratuitously a part for her family. +Chaboneau who with one man had gone to some lodges of Minnetarees near +the Turtle mountain, returned with their faces much frostbitten. They +had been about ninety miles distant, and procured from the inhabitants +some meat and grease, with which they loaded the horses. He informs us +that the agent of the Hudson bay company at that place, had been +endeavouring to make unfavourable impressions with regard to us on the +mind of the great chief, and that the N.W. company intend building a +fort there. The great chief had in consequence spoken slightly of the +Americans, but said that if we would give him our great flag he would +come and see us. + +Monday 14. The Mandans continue to pass down the river on their hunting +party, and were joined by six of our men. One of those sent on Thursday +returned, with information that one of his companions had his feet so +badly frostbitten that he could not walk home. In their excursion they +had killed a buffaloe, a wolf, two porcupines and a white hare. The +weather was more moderate to-day, the mercury being at 16° below 0, and +the wind from the S.E. we had however some snow, after which it remained +cloudy. + +Tuesday 15. The morning is much warmer than yesterday, and the snow +begins to melt, though the wind after being for some time from the S.E. +suddenly shifted to N.W. Between twelve and three o'clock A.M. there was +a total eclipse of the moon, from which we obtained a part of the +observation necessary for ascertaining the longitude. + +We were visited by four of the most distinguished men of the +Minnetarees, to whom we showed marked attentions, as we knew that they +had been taught to entertain strong prejudices against us; these we +succeeded so well in removing, that when in the morning, + +Wednesday 16, about thirty Mandans, among whom six were chiefs came to +see us, the Minnetarees reproached them with their falsehoods, declaring +that they were bad men and ought to hide themselves. They had told the +Minnetarees that we would kill them if they came to the fort, yet on the +contrary they had spent a night there and been treated with kindness by +the whites, who had smoked with them and danced for their amusement. +Kagohami visited us and brought us a little corn, and soon afterwards +one of the first war chiefs of the Minnetarees came accompanied by his +squaw, a handsome woman, whom he was desirous we should use during the +night. He favoured us with a more acceptable present, a draft of the +Missouri in his manner, and informed us of his intention to go to war in +the spring against the Snake Indians; we advised him to reflect +seriously before he committed the peace of his nation to the hazards of +war; to look back on the numerous nations whom war has destroyed, that +if he wished his nation to be happy he should cultivate peace and +intercourse with all his neighbours, by which means they would procure +more horses, increase in numbers, and that if he went to war he would +displease his great father the president, and forfeit his protection. We +added that we had spoken thus to all the tribes whom we had met, that +they had all opened their ears, and that the president would compel +those who did not voluntarily listen to his advice. Although a young man +of only twenty-six years of age, this discourse seemed to strike him. He +observed that if it would be displeasing to us he would not go to war, +since he had horses enough, and that he would advise all the nation to +remain at home, until we had seen the Snake Indians, and discovered +whether their intentions were pacific. The party who went down with the +horses for the man who was frostbitten returned, and we are glad to find +his complaint not serious. + +Thursday 17. The day was very windy from the north; the morning clear +and cold, the thermometer at sunrise being at 0: we had several Indians +with us. + +Friday 18. The weather is fine and moderate. Messrs. Laroche and +M'Kenzie, two of the N.W. company's traders, visited us with some of the +Minnetarees. In the afternoon two of our hunters returned, having killed +four wolves and a blaireau. + +Saturday 19. Another cloudy day. The two traders set out on their +return, and we sent two men with the horses thirty miles below to the +hunting camp. + +Sunday 20. The day fair and cold. A number of Indians visit us with corn +to exchange for articles, and to pay for repairs to their household +utensils. + +Monday 21. The weather was fine and moderate. The hunters all returned, +having killed during their absence three elk, four deer, two porcupines, +a fox and a hare. + +Tuesday 22. The cold having moderated and the day pleasant, we attempted +to cut the boats out of the ice, but at the distance of eight inches +came to water, under which the ice became three feet thick, so that we +were obliged to desist. + +Wednesday 23. The cold weather returned, the mercury having sunk 2° +below 0, and the snow fell four inches deep. + +Thursday 24. The day was colder than any we have had lately, the +thermometer being at 12° below 0. The hunters whom we sent out returned +unsuccessful, and the rest were occupied in cutting wood to make +charcoal. + +Friday 25. The thermometer was at 25° below 0, the Wind from N.W. and +the day fair, so that the men were employed in preparing coal, and +cutting the boats out of the ice. A band of Assiniboins headed by their +chief, called by the French, Son of the Little Calf, have arrived at the +villages. + +Saturday 26. A fine warm day: a number of Indians dine with us: and one +of our men is attacked with a violent pleurisy. + +Sunday 27. Another warm and pleasant day: we again attempted to get the +boat out of the ice. The man who has the pleurisy was blooded and +sweated, and we were forced to take off the toes of the young Indian who +was frostbitten some time since. Our interpreter returned from the +villages, bringing with him three of Mr. Laroche's horses which he had +sent in order to keep them out of the way of the Assiniboins, who are +very much disposed to steal, and who have just returned to their camp. + +Monday 28. The weather to-day is clear and cold: we are obliged to +abandon the plan of cutting the boat through the ice, and therefore made +another attempt the next day, + +Tuesday 29, by heating a quantity of stones so as to warm the water in +the boat, and thaw the surrounding ice: but in this too we were +disappointed, as all the stones on being put into the fire cracked into +pieces: the weather warm and pleasant: the man with the pleurisy is +recovering. + +Wednesday 30. The morning was fair, but afterwards became cloudy. Mr. +Laroche the trader from the northwest company paid us a visit, in hopes +of being able to accompany us on our journey westward, but this proposal +we thought it best to decline. + +Thursday 31. It snowed last night, and the morning is cold and +disagreeable, with a high wind from the northwest: we sent five hunters +down the river. Another man is taken with the pleurisy. + +Friday, February 1. A cold windy day: our hunters returned having killed +only one deer. One of the Minnetaree war chiefs, a young man named +Maubuksheahokeah or Seeing Snake, came to see us and procure a war +hatchet: he also requested that we would suffer him to go to war against +the Sioux and Ricaras who had killed a Mandan some time ago: this we +refused for reasons which we explained to him. He acknowledged that we +were right, and promised to open his ears to our counsels. + +Saturday 2. The day is fine: another deer was killed. Mr. Laroche who +has been very anxious to go with us left the fort to-day, and one of the +squaws of the Minnetaree interpreter is taken ill. + +Sunday 3. The weather is again pleasant: disappointed in all our efforts +to get the boats free, we occupied ourselves in making iron spikes so as +to prize them up by means of long poles. + +Monday 4. The morning fair and cold, the mercury at sunrise being 18° +below 0, and the wind from the northwest. The stock of meat which we +had procured in November and December being now nearly exhausted, it +became necessary to renew our supply; captain Clarke therefore took +eighteen men, and with two sleighs and three horses descended the river +for the purpose of hunting, as the buffaloe has disappeared from our +neighbourhood, and the Indians are themselves suffering for want of +meat. Two deer were killed to-day but they were very lean. + +Tuesday 5. A pleasant fair morning with the wind from northwest: a +number of the Indians come with corn for the blacksmith, who being now +provided with coal has become one of our greatest resources for +procuring grain. They seem particularly attached to a battle axe, of a +very inconvenient figure: it is made wholly of iron, the blade extremely +thin, and from seven to nine inches long; it is sharp at the point and +five or six inches on each side, whence they converge towards the eye, +which is circular and about an inch in diameter, the blade itself being +not more than an inch wide, the handle is straight, and twelve or +fifteen inches long; the whole weighing about a pound. By way of +ornament, the blade is perforated with several circular holes. The +length of the blade compared with the shortness of the handle render it +a weapon of very little strength, particularly as it is always used on +horseback: there is still however another form which is even worse, the +same sort of handle being fixed to a blade resembling an espontoon. + +Wednesday, February 6. The morning was fair and pleasant, the wind N.W. +A number of Indian chiefs visited us and withdrew after we had smoked +with them contrary to their custom, for after being once introduced into +our apartment they are fond of lounging about during the remainder of +the day. One of the men killed three antelopes. Our blacksmith has his +time completely occupied, so great is the demand for utensils of +different kinds. The Indians are particularly fond of sheet iron, out of +which they form points for arrows and instruments for scraping hides, +and when the blacksmith cut up an old cambouse of that metal, we +obtained for every piece of four inches square seven or eight gallons of +corn from the Indians, who were delighted at the exchange. + +Thursday 7. The morning was fair and much warmer than for some days, the +thermometer being at 18° above 0, and the wind from the S.E. A number of +Indians continue to visit us; but learning that the interpreter's squaws +had been accustomed to unbar the gate during the night, we ordered a +lock put on it, and that no Indian should remain in the fort all night, +nor any person admitted during the hours when the gate is closed, that +is from sunset to sunrise. + +Friday 8. A fair pleasant morning, with S.E. winds. Pocopsahe came down +to the fort with a bow, and apologized for his not having finished a +shield which he had promised captain Lewis, and which the weather had +prevented him from completing. This chief possesses more firmness, +intelligence, and integrity, than any Indian of this country, and he +might be rendered highly serviceable in our attempts to civilize the +nation. He mentioned that the Mandans are very much in want of meat, and +that he himself had not tasted any for several days. To this distress +they are often reduced by their own improvidence, or by their unhappy +situation. Their principal article of food is buffaloe-meat, their corn, +beans, and other grain being reserved for summer, or as a last resource +against what they constantly dread, an attack from the Sioux, who drive +off the game and confine them to their villages. The same fear too +prevents their going out to hunt in small parties to relieve their +occasional wants, so that the buffaloe is generally obtained in large +quantities and wasted by carelessness. + +Saturday 9. The morning was fair and pleasant, the wind from the S.E. +Mr. M'Kenzie from the N.W. company establishment visited us. + +Sunday 10. A slight snow fell in the course of the night, the morning +was cloudy, and the northwest wind blew so high that although the +thermometer was 18° above 0, the day was cooler than yesterday, when it +was only 10° above the same point. Mr. M'Kenzie left us, and Chaboneau +returned with information that our horses loaded with meat were below, +but could not cross the ice not being shod. + +Monday 11. We sent down a party with sleds, to relieve the horses from +their loads; the weather fair and cold, with a N.W. wind. About five +o'clock one of the wives of Chaboneau was delivered of a boy; this being +her first child she was suffering considerable, when Mr. Jessaume told +captain Lewis that he had frequently administered to persons in her +situation, a small dose of the rattle of the rattlesnake which had never +failed to hasten the delivery. Having some of the rattle, captain Lewis +gave it to Mr. Jessaume who crumbled two of the rings of it between his +fingers, and mixing it with a small quantity of water gave it to her. +What effect it may really have had it might be difficult to determine, +but captain Lewis was informed that she had not taken it more than ten +minutes before the delivery took place. + +Tuesday 12. The morning is fair though cold, the mercury being 14° below +the wind from the S.E. About four o'clock the horses were brought in +much fatigued; on giving them meal bran moistened with water they would +not eat it, but preferred the bark of the cottonwood, which as is +already observed forms their principal food during the winter. The +horses of the Mandans are so often stolen by the Sioux, Ricaras, and +Assiniboins, that the invariable rule now is to put the horses every +night in the same lodge with the family. In the summer they ramble in +the plains in the vicinity of the camp, and feed on the grass, but +during cold weather the squaws cut down the cottonwood trees as they are +wanted, and the horses feed on the boughs and bark of the tender +branches, which are also brought into the lodges at night and placed +near them. These animals are very severely treated; for whole days they +are pursuing the buffaloe, or burdened with the fruits of the chase, +during which they scarcely ever taste food, and at night return to a +scanty allowance of wood; yet the spirit of this valuable animal +sustains him through all these difficulties, and he is rarely deficient +either in flesh or vigour. + +Wednesday 13. The morning was cloudy, the thermometer at 2° below 0, the +wind from the southeast. Captain Clarke returned last evening with all +his hunting party: during their excursion they had killed forty deer, +three buffaloe, and sixteen elk; but most of the game was too lean for +use, and the wolves, who regard whatever lies out at night as their own, +had appropriated a large part of it: when he left the fort on the 4th +instant, he descended on the ice twenty-two miles to New Mandan island, +near some of their old villages, and encamped, having killed nothing, +and therefore without food for the night. + +Early on the 5th, the hunters went out and killed two buffaloe and a +deer, but the last only could be used, the others being too lean. After +breakfast they proceeded down to an Indian lodge and hunted during the +day: the next morning, 6th, they encamped forty-four miles from the fort +on a sand point near the mouth of a creek on the southwest side, which +they call Hunting creek, and during this and the following day hunted +through all the adjoining plains, with much success, having killed a +number of deer and elk. On the 8th, the best of the meat was sent with +the horses to the fort, and such parts of the remainder as were fit for +use were brought to a point of the river three miles below, and after +the bones were taken out, secured in pens built of logs, so as to keep +off the wolves, ravens and magpies, who are very numerous and constantly +disappoint the hunter of his prey: they then went to the low grounds +near the Chisshetaw river where they encamped, but saw nothing except +some wolves on the hills, and a number of buffaloe too poor to be worth +hunting. The next morning 9th, as there was no game and it would have +been inconvenient to send it back sixty miles to the fort, they returned +up the river, and for three days hunted along the banks and plains, and +reached the fort in the evening of the twelfth much fatigued, having +walked thirty miles that day on the ice and through the snow in many +places knee deep, the moccasins too being nearly worn out: the only game +which they saw besides what is mentioned, was some growse on the +sandbars in the river. + +Thursday 14. Last night the snow fell three inches deep; the day was, +however, fine. Four men were despatched with sleds and three horses to +bring up the meat which had been collected by the hunters. They returned +however, with intelligence that about twenty-one miles below the fort a +party of upwards of one hundred men, whom they supposed to be Sioux, +rushed on them, cut the traces of the sleds, and carried off two of the +horses, the third being given up by intercession of an Indian who seemed +to possess some authority over them; they also took away two of the +men's knifes, and a tomahawk, which last however they returned. We sent +up to the Mandans to inform them of it, and to know whether any of them +would join a party which intended to pursue the robbers in the morning. +About twelve o'clock two of their chiefs came down and said that all +their young men were out hunting, and that there were few guns in the +village. Several Indians however, armed some with bows and arrows, some +with spears and battle-axes, and two with fusils, accompanied captain +Lewis, who set out, + +Friday 15, at sunrise with twenty-four men. The morning was fine and +cool, the thermometer being at 16° below 0. In the course of the day one +of the Mandan chiefs returned from captain Lewis's party, his eye-sight +having become so bad that he could not proceed. At this season of the +year the reflexion from the ice and snow is so intense as to occasion +almost total blindness. This complaint is very common, and the general +remedy is to sweat the part affected by holding the face over a hot +stone, and receiving the fumes from snow thrown on it. A large red fox +was killed to-day. + +Saturday 16. The morning was warm, mercury at 32° above 0, the weather +cloudy: several of the Indians who went with captain Lewis returned, as +did also one of our men, whose feet had been frostbitten. + +Sunday 17. The weather continued as yesterday, though in the afternoon +it became fair. Shotawhorora and his son came to see us, with about +thirty pounds of dried buffaloe meat and some tallow. + +Monday 18. The morning was cloudy with some snow, but in the latter part +of the day it cleared up. Mr. M'Kenzie who had spent yesterday at the +fort now left us. Our stock of meat is exhausted, so that we must +confine ourselves to vegetable diet, at least till the return of the +party: for this, however, we are at no loss, since both on this and the +following day, + +Tuesday 19, our blacksmith got large quantities of corn from the Indians +who came in great numbers to see us. The weather was fair and warm, the +wind from the south. + +Wednesday, 20th. The day was delightfully fine; the mercury being at +sunrise 2° and in the course of the day 22° above 0, the wind southerly. +Kagohami came down to see us early: his village is afflicted by the +death of one of their eldest men, who from his account to us must have +seen one hundred and twenty winters. Just as he was dying, he requested +his grandchildren to dress him in his best robe when he was dead, and +then carry him on a hill and seat him on a stone, with his face down the +river towards their old villages, that he might go straight to his +brother who had passed before him to the ancient village under ground. +We have seen a number of Mandans who have lived to a great age; chiefly +however the men, whose robust exercises fortify the body, while the +laborious occupations of the women shorten their existence. + +Thursday 21. We had a continuation of the same pleasant weather. Oheenaw +and Shahaka came down to see us, and mentioned that several of their +countrymen had gone to consult their medicine stone as to the prospects +of the following year. This medicine stone is the great oracle of the +Mandans, and whatever it announces is believed with implicit confidence. +Every spring, and on some occasions during the summer, a deputation +visits the sacred spot, where there is a thick porous stone twenty-feet +in circumference, with a smooth surface. Having reached the place the +ceremony of smoking to it is performed by the deputies, who alternately +take a whiff themselves and then present the pipe to the stone; after +this they retire to an adjoining wood for the night, during which it may +be safely presumed that all the embassy do not sleep; and in the morning +they read the destinies of the nation in the white marks on the stone, +which those who made them are at no loss to decypher. The Minnetarees +have a stone of a similar kind, which has the same qualities and the +same influence over the nation. Captain Lewis returned from his +excursion in pursuit of the Indians. On reaching the place where the +Sioux had stolen our horses, they found only one sled, and several pair +of moccasins which were recognised to be those of the Sioux. The party +then followed the Indian tracks till they reached two old lodges where +they slept, and the next morning pursued the course of the river till +they reached some Indian camps, where captain Clarke passed the night +some time ago, and which the Sioux had now set on fire, leaving a little +corn near the place in order to induce a belief that they were Ricaras. +From this point the Sioux tracks left the river abruptly and crossed +into the plains; but perceiving that there was no chance of overtaking +them, captain Lewis went down to the pen where captain Clarke had left +some meat, which he found untouched by the Indians, and then hunted in +the low grounds on the river, till he returned with about three thousand +pounds of meat, some drawn in a sled by fifteen of the men, and the rest +on horseback; having killed thirty-six deer, fourteen elk, and one wolf. + +Friday, 22nd. The morning was cloudy and a little snow fell, but in the +afternoon the weather became fair. We were visited by a number of +Indians, among whom was Shotawhorora, a chief of much consideration +among the Mandan, although by birth a Ricara. + +Saturday, 23d. The day is warm and pleasant. Having worked industriously +yesterday and all this morning we were enabled to disengage one of the +periogues and haul it on shore, and also nearly to cut out the second. +The father of the boy whose foot had been so badly frozen, and whom we +had now cured, came to-day and carried him home in a sleigh. + +Sunday, 24th. The weather is again fine. We succeeded in loosening the +second periogue and barge, though we found a leak in the latter. The +whole of the next day, + +Monday, 25th, we were occupied in drawing up the boats on the bank: the +smallest one we carried there with no difficulty, but the barge was too +heavy for our elk-skin ropes which constantly broke. We were visited by +Orupsehara, or Black Moccasin, and several other chiefs, who brought us +presents of meat on the backs of their squaws, and one of the +Minnetarees requested and obtained permission for himself and his two +wives to remain all night in the fort. The day was exceedingly pleasant. + +Tuesday 26. The weather is again fine. By great labour during the day we +got all the boats on the bank by sunset, an operation which attracted a +great number of Indians to the fort. + +Wednesday 27. The weather continues fine. All of us employed in +preparing tools to build boats for our voyage, as we find that small +periogues will be much more convenient than the barge in ascending the +Missouri. + +Thursday 28. The day is clear and pleasant. Sixteen men were sent out to +examine the country for trees suitable for boats, and were successful in +finding them. Two of the N.W. company traders arrived with letters; they +had likewise a root which is used for the cure of persons bitten by mad +dogs, snakes, and other venomous animals: it is found on high grounds +and the sides of hills, and the mode of using it is to scarify the +wound, and apply to it an inch or more of the chewed or pounded root, +which is to be renewed twice a day; the patient must not however chew or +swallow any of the root, as an inward application might be rather +injurious than beneficial. + +Mr. Gravelines with two Frenchmen and two Indians arrived from the +Ricara nation, with letters from Mr. Anthony Tabeau. This last gentleman +informs us that the Ricaras express their determination to follow our +advice, and to remain at peace with the Mandans and Minnetarees, whom +they are desirous of visiting; they also wish to know whether these +nations would permit the Ricaras to settle near them, and form a league +against their common enemies the Sioux. On mentioning this to the +Mandans they agreed to it, observing that they always desired to +cultivate friendship with the Ricaras, and that the Ahnahaways and +Minnetarees have the same friendly views. + +Mr. Gravelines states that the band of Tetons whom we had seen was well +disposed to us, owing to the influence of their chief the Black +Buffaloe; but that the three upper bands of Tetons, with the Sisatoons, +and the Yanktons of the north, mean soon to attack the Indians in this +quarter, with a resolution to put to death every white man they +encounter. Moreover, that Mr. Cameron of St. Peter's has armed the Sioux +against the Chippeways, who have lately put to death three of his men. +The men who had stolen our horses we found to be all Sioux, who after +committing the outrage went to the Ricara villages, where they said that +they had hesitated about killing our men who were with the horses, but +that in future they would put to death any of us they could, as we were +bad medicines and deserved to be killed. The Ricaras were displeased at +their conduct and refused to give them any thing to eat, which is +deemed the greatest act of hostility short of actual violence. + +Friday, March 1. The day is fine, and the whole party is engaged, some +in making ropes and periogues, others in burning coal, and making battle +axes to sell for corn. + +Saturday 2. Mr. Laroche one of the N.W. company's traders has just +arrived with merchandise from the British establishments on the +Assiniboin. The day is fine, and the river begins to break up in some +places, the mercury being between 28° and 36° above 0, and the wind from +the N.E. We were visited by several Indians. + +Sunday 3. The weather pleasant, the wind from the E. with clouds; in the +afternoon the clouds disappeared and the wind came from the N.W. The men +are all employed in preparing the boats; we are visited by Poscapsahe +and several other Indians with corn. A flock of ducks passed up the +river to-day. + +Monday 4. A cloudy morning with N.W. wind, the latter part of the day +clear. We had again some Indian visitors with a small present of meat. +The Assiniboins, who a few days since visited the Mandans, returned, and +attempted to take horses from the Minnetarees, who fired on them; a +circumstance which may occasion some disturbance between the two +nations. + +Tuesday 5. About four o'clock in the morning there was a slight fall of +snow, but the day became clear and pleasant with the mercury 40° above +0. We sent down an Indian and a Frenchman to the Ricara villages with a +letter to Mr. Tabeau. + +Wednesday 6. The day was cloudy and smoky in consequence of the burning +of the plains by the Minnetarees; they have set all the neighbouring +country on fire in order to obtain an early crop of grass which may +answer for the consumption of their horses, and also as an inducement +for the buffaloe and other game to visit it. The horses stolen two days +ago by the Assiniboins have been returned to the Minnetarees. Ohhaw +second chief of the lower Minnetaree village came to see us. The river +rose a little and overran the ice, so as to render the crossing +difficult. + +Thursday, 7th. The day was somewhat cloudy, and colder than usual; the +wind from the northeast. Shotawhorora visited us with a sick child, to +whom some medicine was administered. There were also other Indians who +brought corn and dried buffaloe meat in exchange for blacksmith's work. + +Friday 8. The day cold and fair with a high easterly wind: we were +visited by two Indians who gave us an account of the country and people +near the Rocky mountains where they had been. + +Saturday 9. The morning cloudy and cool, the wind from the north. The +grand chief of the Minnetarees, who is called by the French Le Borgne, +from his having but one eye, came down for the first time to the fort. +He was received with much attention, two guns were fired in honour of +his arrival, the curiosities were exhibited to him, and as he said that +he had not received the presents which we had sent to him on his +arrival, we again gave him a flag, a medal, shirt, armbraces and the +usual presents on such occasions, with all which he was much pleased. In +the course of the conversation, the chief observed that some foolish +young men of his nation had told him there was a person among us who was +quite black, and he wished to know if it could be true. We assured him +that it was true, and sent for York: the Borgne was very much surprised +at his appearance, examined him closely, and spit on his finger and +rubbed the skin in order to wash off the paint; nor was it until the +negro uncovered his head, and showed his short hair, that the Borgne +could be persuaded that he was not a painted white man. + +Sunday 10. A cold windy day. Tetuckopinreha, chief of the Ahnahaways, +and the Minnetaree chief Ompsehara, passed the day with us, and the +former remained during the night. We had occasion to see an instance of +the summary justice of the Indians: a young Minnetaree had carried off +the daughter of Cagonomokshe, the Raven Man, second chief of the upper +village of the Mandans; the father went to the village and found his +daughter, whom he brought home, and took with him a horse belonging to +the offender: this reprisal satisfied the vengeance of the father and of +the nation, as the young man would not dare to reclaim his horse, which +from that time became the property of the injured party. The stealing of +young women is one of the most common offenses against the police of the +village, and the punishment of it always measured by the power or the +passions of the kindred of the female. A voluntary elopement is of +course more rigorously chastised. One of the wives of the Borgne +deserted him in favour of a man who had been her lover before the +marriage, and who after some time left her, and she was obliged to +return to her father's house. As soon as he heard it the Borgne walked +there and found her sitting near the fire: without noticing his wife, he +began to smoke with the father; when they were joined by the old men of +the village, who knowing his temper had followed in hopes of appeasing +him. He continued to smoke quietly with them, till rising to return, he +took his wife by the hair, led her as far as the door, and with a single +stroke of his tomahawk put her to death before her father's eyes: then +turning fiercely upon the spectators, he said that if any of her +relations wished to avenge her, they might always find him at his lodge; +but the fate of the woman had not sufficient interest to excite the +vengeance of the family. The caprice or the generosity of the same chief +gave a very different result to a similar incident which occurred some +time afterwards. Another of his wives eloped with a young man, who not +being able to support her as she wished they both returned to the +village, and she presented herself before the husband, supplicating his +pardon for her conduct: the Borgne sent for the lover: at the moment +when the youth expected that he would be put to death, the chief mildly +asked them if they still preserved their affection for each other; and +on their declaring that want, and not a change of affection had induced +them to return, he gave up his wife to her lover, with the liberal +present of three horses, and restored them both to his favour. + +Monday 11. The weather was cloudy in the morning and a little snow fell, +the wind then shifted from southeast to northwest and the day became +fair. It snowed again in the evening, but the next day, + +Tuesday 12, was fair with the wind from the northwest. + +Wednesday 13. We had a fine day, and a southwest wind. Mr. M'Kenzie came +to see us, as did also many Indians who are so anxious for battle-axes +that our smiths have not a moment's leisure, and procure us an abundance +of corn. The river rose a little to-day, and so continued. + +Thursday 14. The wind being from the west, and the day fine, the whole +party were employed in building boats and in shelling corn. + +Friday 15. The day is clear, pleasant and warm. We take advantage of the +fine weather to hang all our Indian presents and other articles out to +dry before our departure. + +Saturday 16. The weather is cloudy, the wind from the southeast. A Mr. +Garrow, a Frenchman who has resided a long time among the Ricaras and +Mandans, explained to us the mode in which they make their large beads, +an art which they are said to have derived from some prisoners of the +Snake Indian nation, and the knowledge of which is a secret even now +confined to a few among the Mandans and Ricaras: the process is as +follows: glass of different colours is first pounded fine and washed, +till each kind, which is kept separate, ceases to stain the water thrown +over it: some well seasoned clay, mixed with a sufficient quantity of +sand to prevent its becoming very hard when exposed to heat, and reduced +by water to the consistency of dough, is then rolled on the palm of the +hand, till it becomes of the thickness wanted for the hole in the bead; +these sticks of clay are placed upright, each on a little pedestal or +ball of the same material about an ounce in weight, and distributed over +a small earthen platter, which is laid on the fire for a few minutes, +when they are taken off to cool: with a little paddle or shovel three or +four inches long and sharpened at the end of the handle, the wet pounded +glass is placed in the palm of the hand: the beads are made of an oblong +form wrapped in a cylindrical form round the stick of clay which is +laid crosswise over it, and gently rolled backwards and forwards till +it becomes perfectly smooth. If it be desired to introduce any other +colour, the surface of the bead is perforated with the pointed end of +the paddle and the cavity filled with pounded glass of that colour: the +sticks with the string of beads are then replaced on their pedestals, +and the platter deposited on burning coals or hot embers: over the +platter an earthern pot containing about three gallons, with a mouth +large enough to cover the platter, is reversed, being completely closed +except a small aperture at the top, through which are watched the bead: +a quantity of old dried wood formed into a sort of dough or paste is +placed round the pot so as almost to cover it, and afterwards set on +fire: the manufacturer then looks through the small hole in the pot, +till he sees the beads assume a deep red colour, to which succeeds a +paler or whitish red, or they become pointed at the upper extremity; on +which the fire is removed and the pot suffered to cool gradually: at +length it is removed, the beads taken out, the clay in the hollow of +them picked out with an awl or needle, and it is then fit for use. The +beads thus formed are in great demand among the Indians, and used as +pendants to their ears and hair, and are sometimes worn round the neck. + +Sunday 17. A windy but clear and pleasant day, the river rising a little +and open in several places. Our Minnetaree interpreter Chaboneau, whom +we intended taking with us to the Pacific, had some days ago been worked +upon by the British traders, and appeared unwilling to accompany us, +except on certain terms; such as his not being subject to our orders, +and do duty, or to return whenever he chose. As we saw clearly the +source of his hesitation, and knew that it was intended as an obstacle +to our views, we told him that the terms were inadmissible, and that we +could dispense with his services: he had accordingly left us with some +displeasure. Since then he had made an advance towards joining us, which +we showed no anxiety to meet; but this morning he sent an apology for +his improper conduct, and agreed to go with us and perform the same +duties as the rest of the corps; we therefore took him again into our +service. + +Monday 18. The weather was cold and cloudy, the wind from the north. We +were engaged in packing up the goods into eight divisions, so as to +preserve a portion of each in case of accident. We hear that the Sioux +have lately attacked a party of Assiniboins and Knistenaux, near the +Assiniboin river, and killed fifty of them. + +Tuesday 19. Some snow fell last night, and this morning was cold, windy, +and cloudy. Shahaka and Kagohami came down to see us, as did another +Indian with a sick child, to whom we gave some medicine. There appears +to be an approaching war, as two parties have already gone from the +Minnetarees, and a third is preparing. + +Wednesday 20. The morning was cold and cloudy, the wind high from the +north, but the afternoon was pleasant. The canoes being finished, four +of them were carried down to the river, at the distance of a mile and a +half from where they were constructed. + +Thursday 20. The remaining periogues were hauled to the same place, and +all the men except three, who were left to watch them returned to the +fort. On his way down, which was about six miles, captain Clarke passed +along the points of the high hills, where he saw large quantities of +pumicestone on the foot, sides and tops of the hills, which had every +appearance of having been at some period on fire. He collected specimens +of the stone itself, the pumicestone, and the hard earth; and on being +put into the furnace the hard earth melted and glazed, the pumicestone +melted, and the hardstone became a pumicestone glazed. + + + + + CHAPTER VII. + + Indian method of attacking the buffaloe on the ice--An enumeration + of the presents sent to the president of the United States--The + party are visited by a Ricara chief--They leave their encampment, + and proceed on their journey--description of the Little + Missouri--Some account of the Assiniboins--Their mode of burying + the dead--Whiteearth river described--Great quantity of salt + discovered on its banks--Yellowstone river described--A particular + account of the country at the confluence of the Yellowstone and + Missouri--Description of the Missouri, the surrounding country, and + of the rivers, creeks, islands, &c. + + +Friday 22. This was a clear pleasant day, with the wind from the S.S.W. +We were visited by the second chief of the Minnetarees, to whom we gave +a medal and some presents, accompanied by a speech. Mr. M'Kenzie and Mr. +Laroche also came to see us. They all took their leave next day. + +Saturday 23. Soon after their departure, a brother of the Borgne with +other Indians came to the fort. The weather was fine, but in the evening +we had the first rain that has fallen during the winter. + +Sunday 24. The morning cloudy, but the afternoon fair, the wind from the +N.E. We are employed in preparing for our journey. This evening swans +and wild geese flew towards the N.E. + +Monday 25. A fine day, the wind S.W. The river rose nine inches, and the +ice began breaking away in several places, so as to endanger our canoes +which we are hauling down to the fort. + +Tuesday 26. The river rose only half an inch, and being choaked up with +ice near the fort, did not begin to run till towards evening. This day +is clear and pleasant. + +Wednesday 27. The wind is still high from the S.W.: the ice which is +ocasionally stopped for a few hours is then thrown over shallow +sandbars when the river runs. We had all our canoes brought down, and +were obliged to cauk and pitch very attentively the cracks so common in +cottonwood. + +Thursday 28. The day is fair. Some obstacle above has prevented the ice +from running. Our canoes are now nearly ready, and we expect to set out +as soon as the river is sufficiently clear to permit us to pass. + +Friday 29. The weather clear, and the wind from N.W. The obstruction +above gave way this morning, and the ice came down in great quantities; +the river having fallen eleven inches in the course of the last +twenty-four hours. We have had few Indians at the fort for the last +three or four days, as they are now busy in catching the floating +buffaloe. Every spring as the river is breaking up the surrounding +plains are set on fire, and the buffaloe tempted to cross the river in +search of the fresh grass which immediately succeeds to the burning: on +their way they are often insulated on a large cake or mass of ice, which +floats down the river: the Indians now select the most favourable points +for attack, and as the buffaloe approaches dart with astonishing agility +across the trembling ice, sometimes pressing lightly a cake of not more +than two feet square: the animal is of course unsteady, and his +footsteps insecure on this new element, so that he can make but little +resistance, and the hunter, who has given him his death wound, paddles +his icy boat to the shore and secures his prey. + +Saturday 30. The day was clear and pleasant, the wind N.W. and the ice +running in great quantities. All our Indian presents were again exposed +to the air, and the barge made ready to descend the Missouri. + +Monday 31. Early this morning it rained, and the weather continued +cloudy during the day; the river rose nine inches, the ice not running +so much as yesterday. Several flocks of geese and ducks fly up the +river. + +Monday, April 1, 1805. This morning there was a thunder storm, +accompanied with large hail, to which succeeded rain for about half an +hour. We availed ourselves of this interval to get all the boats in the +water. At four o'clock P.M. it began to rain a second time, and +continued till twelve at night. With the exception of a few drops at two +or three different times, this is the first rain we have had since the +15th of October last. + +Tuesday 2. The wind was high last night and this morning from N.W. and +the weather continued cloudy. The Mandans killed yesterday twenty-one +elk, about fifteen miles below, but they were so poor as to be scarcely +fit for use. + +Wednesday 3. The weather is pleasant, though there was a white frost and +some ice on the edge of the water. We were all engaged in packing up our +baggage and merchandize. + +Thursday 4. The day is clear and pleasant, though the wind is high from +N.W. We now packed up in different boxes a variety of articles for the +president, which we shall send in the barge. They consisted of a stuffed +male and female antelope with their skeletons, a weasel, three squirrels +from the Rocky mountains, the skeleton of the prairie wolf, those of the +white and gray hare, a male and female blaireau, or burrowing dog of the +prairie, with a skeleton of the female, two burrowing squirrels, a white +weasel, and the skin of the louservia, the horns of the mountain ram, or +big-horn, a pair of large elk horns, the horns and tail of the +black-tailed deer, and a variety of skins, such as those of the red fox, +white hare, martin, yellow bear obtained from the Sioux; also, a number +of articles of Indian dress, among which was a buffaloe robe, +representing a battle fought about eight years since between the Sioux +and Ricaras against the Mandans and Minnetarees, in which the combatants +are represented on horseback. It has of late years excited much +discussion to ascertain the period when the art of painting was first +discovered: how hopeless all researches of this kind are, is evident +from the foregoing fact. It is indebted for its origin to one of the +strongest passions of the human heart; a wish to preserve the features +of a departed friend, or the memory of some glorious exploit: this +inherits equally the bosoms of all men either civilized or savage. Such +sketches, rude and imperfect as they are, delineate the predominant +character of the savage nations. If they are peaceable and inoffensive, +the drawings usually consist of local scenery, and their favourite +diversions. If the band are rude and ferocious, we observe tomahawks, +scalpingknives, bows, arrows, and all the engines of destruction. A +Mandan bow and quiver of arrows; also some Ricara tobacco-seed and an +ear of Mandan corn; to these were added a box of plants, another of +insects, and three cases containing a burrowing squirrel; a prairie hen, +and four magpies, all alive. + +Friday, 5th. Fair and pleasant, but the wind high from the northwest: we +were visited by a number of Mandans, and are occupied in loading our +boats in order to proceed on our journey. + +Saturday, 6th. Another fine day with a gentle breeze from the south. The +Mandans continue to come to the fort; and in the course of the day +informed us of the arrival of a party of Ricaras on the other side of +the river. We sent our interpreter to inquire into their reason for +coming; and in the morning, + +Sunday, 7th, he returned with a Ricara chief and three of his nation. +The chief, whose name is Kagohweto, or Brave Raven, brought a letter +from Mr. Tabeau, mentioning the wish of the grand chiefs of the Ricaras +to visit the president, and requesting permission for himself and four +men to join our boat when it descends; to which we consented, as it will +then be manned with fifteen hands and be able to defend itself against +the Sioux. After presenting the letter, he told us that he was sent with +ten warriors by his nation to arrange their settling near the Mandans +and Minnetarees, whom they wished to join; that he considered all the +neighboring nations friendly except the Sioux, whose persecution they +would no longer withstand, and whom they hoped to repel by uniting with +the tribes in this quarter: he added that the Ricaras intended to follow +our advice and live in peace with all nations, and requested that we +would speak in their favour to the Assiniboin Indians. This we willingly +promised to do, and assured them that their great father would protect +them and no longer suffer the Sioux to have good guns, or to injure his +dutiful children. We then gave him a small medal, a certificate of his +good conduct, a carrot of tobacco, and some wampum, with which he +departed for the Mandan village well satisfied with his reception. +Having made all our arrangements, we left the fort about five o'clock in +the afternoon. The party now consisted of thirty-two persons. Besides +ourselves were serjeants John Ordway, Nathaniel Pryor, and Patrick Gass: +the privates were William Bratton, John Colter, John Collins, Peter +Cruzatte, Robert Frazier, Reuben Fields, Joseph Fields, George Gibson, +Silas Goodrich, Hugh Hall, Thomas P. Howard, Baptiste Lapage, Francis +Labiche, Hugh M'Neal, John Potts, John Shields, George Shannon, John B. +Thompson, William Werner, Alexander Willard, Richard Windsor, Joseph +Whitehouse, Peter Wiser, and captain Clarke's black servant York. The +two interpreters, were George Drewyer and Toussaint Chaboneau. The wife +of Chaboneau also accompanied us with her young child, and we hope may +be useful as an interpreter among the Snake Indians. She was herself one +of that tribe, but having been taken in war by the Minnetarees, by whom +she was sold as a slave to Chaboneau, who brought her up and afterwards +married her. One of the Mandans likewise embarked with us, in order to +go to the Snake Indians and obtain a peace with them for his countrymen. +All this party with the baggage was stowed in six small canoes and two +large periogues. We left the fort with fair pleasant weather though the +northwest wind was high, and after making about four miles encamped on +the north side of the Missouri, nearly opposite the first Mandan +village. At the same time that we took our departure, our barge manned +with seven soldiers, two Frenchmen, and Mr. Gravelines as pilot, sailed +for the United States loaded with our presents and despatches. + +Monday, 8th. The day was clear and cool, the wind from the northwest, so +that we travelled slowly. After breakfasting at the second Mandan +village we passed the Mahaha at the mouth of Knife river, a handsome +stream about eighty yards wide. Beyond this we reached the island which +captain Clarke had visited on the 30th October. This island has timber +as well as the lowlands on the north, but its distance from the water +had prevented our encamping there during the winter. From the head of +this island we made three and a half miles to a point of wood on the +north, passing a high bluff on the south, and having come about fourteen +miles. In the course of the day one of our boats filled and was near +sinking; we however saved her with the loss of a little biscuit and +powder. + +Tuesday, April 9. We set off as soon as it was light, and proceeded five +miles to breakfast, passing a low ground on the south, covered with +groves of cottonwood timber. At the distance of six miles, we reached on +the north a hunting camp of Minnetarees consisting of thirty lodges, and +built in the usual form of earth and timber. Two miles and a quarter +farther, comes in on the same side Miry creek, a small stream about ten +yards wide, which, rising in some lakes near the Mouse river, passes +through beautiful level fertile plains without timber in a direction +nearly southwest; the banks near its entrance being steep, and rugged on +both sides of the Missouri. Three miles above this creek we came to a +hunting party of Minnetarees, who had prepared a park or inclosure and +were waiting the return of the antelope: this animal, which in the +autumn retires for food and shelter to the Black mountains during the +winter, recross the river at this season of the year, and spread +themselves through the plains on the north of the Missouri. We halted +and smoked a short time with them, and then proceeded on through +handsome plains on each side of the river, and encamped at the distance +of twenty-three and a half miles on the north side: the day was clear +and pleasant, the wind high from the south, but afterwards changed to a +western steady breeze. The bluffs which we passed to-day are upwards of +one hundred feet high, composed of a mixture of yellow clay and sand, +with many horizontal strata of carbonated wood resembling pit-coal, from +one to five feet in depth, and scattered through the bluff at different +elevations, some as high as eighty feet above the water: the hills along +the river are broken, and present every appearance of having been burned +at some former period; great quantities of pumicestone and lava or +rather earth, which seems to have been boiled and then hardened by +exposure, being seen in many parts of these hills where they are broken +and washed down into gullies by the rain and melting snow. A great +number of brants pass up the river: there are some of them perfectly +white, except the large feathers of the first and second joint of the +wing which are black, though in every other characteristic they resemble +common gray brant: we also saw but could not procure an animal that +burrows in the ground, and similar in every respect to the burrowing +squirrel, except that it is only one third of its size. This may be the +animal whose works we have often seen in the plains and prairies; they +resemble the labours of the salamander in the sand hills of South +Carolina and Georgia, and like him, the animals rarely come above +ground; they consist of a little hillock of ten or twelve pounds of +loose ground which would seem to have been reversed from a pot, though +no aperture is seen through which it could have been thrown: on removing +gently the earth, you discover that the soil has been broken in a circle +of about an inch and a half diameter, where the ground is looser though +still no opening is perceptible. When we stopped for dinner the squaw +went out, and after penetrating with a sharp stick the holes of the +mice, near some drift wood, brought to us a quantity of wild artichokes, +which the mice collect and hoard in large numbers; the root is white, of +an ovate form, from one to three inches long, and generally of the size +of a man's finger, and two, four, and sometimes six roots are attached +to a single stalk. Its flavour as well as the stalk which issues from it +resemble those of the Jerusalem artichoke, except that the latter is +much larger. A large beaver was caught in a trap last night, and the +musquitoes begin to trouble us. + +Wednesday 10. We again set off early with clear pleasant weather, and +halted about ten for breakfast, above a sandbank which was falling in, +and near a small willow island. On both sides of the Missouri, after +ascending the hills near the water, one fertile unbroken plain extends +itself as far as the eye can reach, without a solitary tree or shrub, +except in moist situations or in the steep declivities of hills where +they are sheltered from the ravages of fire. At the distance of twelve +miles we reached the lower point of a bluff on the south; which is in +some parts on fire and throws out quantities of smoke which has a strong +sulphurous smell, the coal and other appearances in the bluffs being +like those described yesterday: at one o'clock we overtook three +Frenchmen who left the fort a few days before us, in order to make the +first attempt on this river of hunting beaver, which they do by means of +traps: their efforts promise to be successful for they have already +caught twelve which are finer than any we have ever seen: they mean to +accompany us as far as the Yellowstone river in order to obtain our +protection against the Assiniboins who might attack them. In the evening +we encamped on a willow point to the south opposite to a bluff, above +which a small creek falls in, and just above a remarkable bend in the +river to the southwest, which we called the Little Basin. The low +grounds which we passed to-day possess more timber than is usual, and +are wider: the current is moderate, at least not greater than that of +the Ohio in high tides; the banks too fall in but little; so that the +navigation comparatively with that lower down the Missouri is safe and +easy. We were enabled to make eighteen and a half miles: we saw the +track of a large white bear, there were also a herd of antelopes in the +plains; the geese and swan are now feeding in considerable quantities on +the young grass in the low prairies; we shot a prairie hen, and a bald +eagle of which there were many nests in the tall cottonwood trees; but +could procure neither of two elk which were in the plain. Our old +companions the musquitoes have renewed their visit, and gave us much +uneasiness. + +Thursday, 11th. We set out at daylight, and after passing bare and +barren hills on the south, and a plain covered with timber on the north, +breakfasted at five miles distance: here we were regaled with a deer +brought in by the hunters, which was very acceptable as we had been for +several days without fresh meat; the country between this and fort +Mandan being so frequently disturbed by hunters that the game has become +scarce. We then proceeded with a gentle breeze from the south which +carried the periogues on very well; the day was however so warm that +several of the men worked with no clothes except round the waist, which +is the less inconvenient as we are obliged to wade in some places owing +to the shallowness of the river. At seven miles we reached a large +sandbar making out from the north. We again stopped for dinner, after +which we went on to a small plain on the north covered with cottonwood +where we encamped, having made nineteen miles. The country around is +much the same as that we passed yesterday: on the sides of the hills, +and even on the banks of the rivers, as well as on the sandbars, is a +white substance which appears in considerable quantities on the surface +of the earth, and tastes like a mixture of common salt with glauber +salts: many of the streams which come from the foot of the hills, are so +strongly impregnated with this substance, that the water has an +unpleasant taste and a purgative effect. A beaver was caught last night +by one of the Frenchmen; we killed two geese, and saw some cranes, the +largest bird of that kind common to the Missouri and Mississippi, and +perfectly white except the large feathers on the two first joints of the +wing which are black. Under a bluff opposite to our encampment we +discovered some Indians with horses, whom we supposed were Minnetarees, +but the width of the river prevented our speaking to them. + +Friday, 12th. We set off early and passed a high range of hills on the +south side, our periogues being obliged to go over to the south in order +to avoid a sandbank which was rapidly falling in. At six miles we came +to at the lower side of the entrance of the Little Missouri, where we +remained during the day for the purpose of making celestial +observations. This river empties itself on the south side of the +Missouri, one thousand six hundred and ninety-three miles from its +confluence with the Mississippi. It rises to the west of the Black +mountains, across the northern extremity of which it finds a narrow +rapid passage along high perpendicular banks, then seeks the Missouri in +a northeastern direction, through a broken country with highlands bare +of timber, and the low grounds particularly supplied with cottonwood, +elm, small ash, box, alder, and an undergrowth of willow, redwood, +sometimes called red or swamp-willow, the redberry and chokecherry. In +its course it passes near the northwest side of the Turtle mountain, +which is said to be only twelve or fifteen miles from its mouth in a +straight line a little to the south of west, so that both the Little +Missouri and Knife river have been laid down too far southwest. It +enters the Missouri with a bold current, and is one hundred and +thirty-four yards wide, but its greatest depth is two feet and a half, +and this joined to its rapidity and its sandbars, make the navigation +difficult except for canoes, which may ascend it for a considerable +distance. At the mouth, and as far as we could discern from the hills +between the two rivers about three miles from their junction, the +country is much broken, the soil consisting of a deep rich dark coloured +loam, intermixed with a small proportion of fine sand and covered +generally with a short grass resembling blue grass. In its colour, the +nature of its bed, and its general appearance, it resembles so much the +Missouri as to induce a belief that the countries they water are similar +in point of soil. From the Mandan villages to this place the country is +hilly and irregular, with the same appearance of glauber salts and +carbonated wood, the low grounds smooth, sandy, and partially covered +with cottonwood and small ash; at some distance back there are extensive +plains of a good soil, but without timber or water. + +We found great quantities of small onions which grow single, the bulb of +an oval form, white, about the size of a bullet with a leaf resembling +that of the chive. On the side of a neighbouring hill, there is a +species of dwarf cedar: it spreads its limbs along the surface of the +earth, which it almost conceals by its closeness and thickness, and is +sometimes covered by it, having always a number of roots on the under +side, while on the upper are a quantity of shoots which with their +leaves seldom rise higher than six or eight inches; it is an evergreen, +its leaf more delicate than that of the common cedar, though the taste +and smell is the same. + +The country around has been so recently hunted that the game are +extremely shy, so that a white rabbit, two beaver, a deer, and a bald +eagle were all that we could procure. The weather had been clear, warm, +and pleasant in the morning, but about three we had a squall of high +wind and rain with some thunder, which lasted till after sunset when it +again cleared off. + +Saturday 13. We set out at sunrise, and at nine o'clock having the wind +in our favour went on rapidly past a timbered low ground on the south, +and a creek on the north at the distance of nine miles, which we called +Onion creek, from the quantity of that plant which grows in the plains +near it: this creek is about sixteen yards wide at a mile and a half +above its mouth, it discharges more water than is usual for creeks of +that size in this country, but the whole plain which it waters is +totally destitute of timber. The Missouri itself widens very remarkably +just above the junction with the Little Missouri: immediately at the +entrance of the latter, it is not more than two hundred yards wide, and +so shallow that it may be passed in canoes with setting poles, while a +few miles above it is upwards of a mile in width: ten miles beyond Onion +creek we came to another, discharging itself on the north in the centre +of a deep bend: on ascending it for about a mile and a half, we found it +to be the discharge of a pond or small lake, which seemed to have been +once the bed of the Missouri: near this lake were the remains of +forty-three temporary lodges which seem to belong to the Assiniboins, +who are now on the river of the same name. A great number of swan and +geese were also in it, and from this circumstance we named the creek +Goose creek, and the lake by the same name: these geese we observe do +not build their nests on the ground or in sandbars, but in the tops of +lofty cottonwood trees: we saw some elk and buffaloe to-day but at too +great a distance to obtain any of them, though a number of the carcases +of the latter animal are strewed along the shores, having fallen through +the ice, and been swept along when the river broke up. More bald eagles +are seen on this part of the Missouri than we have previously met with; +the small or common hawk, common in most parts of the United States, are +also found here: great quantities of geese are feeding in the prairies, +and one flock of white brant or goose with black wings, and some gray +brant with them pass up river, and from their flight they seem to +proceed much farther to the northwest. We killed two antelopes which +were very lean, and caught last night two beaver: the French hunters who +had procured seven, thinking the neighborhood of the Little Missouri a +convenient hunting ground for that animal, remained behind there: in +the evening we encamped in a beautiful plain on the north thirty feet +above the river, having made twenty-two and a half miles. + +Sunday 14. We set off early with pleasant and fair weather: a dog joined +us, which we suppose had strayed from the Assiniboin camp on the lake. +At two and a half miles we passed timbered low grounds and a small +creek: in these low grounds are several uninhabited lodges built with +the boughs of the elm, and the remains of two recent encampments, which +from the hoops of small kegs found in them we judged could belong to +Assiniboins only, as they are the only Missouri Indians who use +spirituous liquors: of these they are so passionately fond that it forms +their chief inducement to visit the British on the Assiniboin, to whom +they barter for kegs of rum their dried and pounded meat, their grease, +and the skins of large and small wolves, and small foxes. The dangerous +exchange is transported to their camps with their friends and relations, +and soon exhausted in brutal intoxication: so far from considering +drunkenness as disgraceful, the women and children are permitted and +invited to share in these excesses with their husbands and fathers, who +boast how often their skill and industry as hunters has supplied them +with the means of intoxication: in this, as in their other habits and +customs, they resemble the Sioux from whom they are descended: the trade +with the Assiniboins and Knistenaux is encouraged by the British, +because it procures provision for their _engages_ on their return from +Rainy lake to the English river and the Athabasky country where they +winter; these men being obliged during that voyage to pass rapidly +through a country but scantily supplied with game. We halted for dinner +near a large village of burrowing squirrels, who we observe generally +select a southeasterly exposure, though they are sometimes found in the +plains. At ten and a quarter miles we came to the lower point of an +island, which from the day of our arrival there we called Sunday +island: here the river washes the bases of the hills on both sides and +above the island, which with its sandbar extends a mile and a half: two +small creeks fall in from the south; the uppermost of these, which is +the largest, we called Chaboneau's creek, after our interpreter who once +encamped on it several weeks with a party of Indians. Beyond this no +white man had ever been except two Frenchmen, one of whom Lapage is with +us, and who having lost their way straggled a few miles further, though +to what point we could not ascertain: about a mile and a half beyond +this island we encamped on a point of woodland on the north, having made +in all fourteen miles. + +The Assiniboins have so recently left the river that game is scarce and +shy. One of the hunters shot at an otter last evening; a buffaloe too +was killed, and an elk, both so poor as to be almost unfit for use; two +white bear were also seen, and a muskrat swimming across the river. The +river continues wide and of about the same rapidity as the ordinary +current of the Ohio. The low grounds are wide, the moister parts +containing timber, the upland extremely broken, without wood, and in +some places seem as if they had slipped down in masses of several acres +in surface. The mineral appearances of salts, coal, and sulphur, with +the burnt hill and pumicestone continue, and a bituminous water about +the colour of strong lye, with the taste of glauber salts and a slight +tincture of allum. Many geese were feeding in the prairies, and a number +of magpies who build their nest much like those of the blackbird in +trees, and composed of small sticks, leaves and grass, open at top: the +egg is of a bluish brown color, freckled with reddish brown spots. We +also killed a large hooting owl resembling that of the United States, +except that it was more booted and clad with feathers. On the hills are +many aromatic herbs, resembling in taste, smell and appearance the sage, +hysop, wormwood, southern wood, juniper and dwarf cedar; a plant also +about two or three feet high, similar to the camphor in smell and +taste, and another plant of the same size, with a long, narrow, smooth, +soft leaf, of an agreeable smell and flavour, which is a favourite food +of the antelope, whose necks are often perfumed by rubbing against it. + +Monday 15. We proceeded under a fine breeze from the south, and clear +pleasant weather. At seven miles we reached the lower point of an island +in a bend to the south, which is two miles in length. Captain Clarke, +who went about nine miles northward from the river reached the high +grounds, which, like those we have seen, are level plains without +timber; here he observed a number of drains, which descending from the +hills pursue a northeast course, and probably empty into the Mouse +river, a branch of the Assiniboin, which from Indian accounts approaches +very near to the Missouri at this place. Like all the rivulets of this +neighbourhood these drains were so strongly impregnated with mineral +salts that they are not fit to drink. He saw also the remains of several +camps of Assiniboins; the low grounds on both sides of the river are +extensive, rich, and level. In a little pond on the north, we heard for +the first time this season the croaking of frogs, which exactly +resembles that of the small frogs in the United States: there are also +in these plains great quantities of geese, and many of the grouse, or +prairie hen, as they are called by the N.W. company traders; the note of +the male, as far as words can represent it, is cook, cook, cook, coo, +coo, coo, the first part of which both male and female use when flying; +the male too drums with his wings when he flies in the same way, though +not so loud as the pheasant; they appear to be mating. Some deer, elk, +and goats were in the low grounds, and buffaloe on the sand beaches, but +they were uncommonly shy; we also saw a black bear, and two white ones. +At fifteen miles we passed on the north side a small creek twenty yards +wide, which we called Goatpen creek, from a park or enclosure for the +purpose of catching that animal, which those who went up the creek +found, and which we presume to have been left by the Assiniboins. Its +water is impregnated with mineral salts, and the country through which +it flows consists of wide and very fertile plains, but without any +trees. We encamped at the distance of twenty-three miles, on a sandpoint +to the south; we passed in the evening a rock in the middle of the +river, the channel of which a little above our camp, is confined within +eighty yards. + +Tuesday 16. The morning was clear, the wind light from the S.E. The +country presents the same appearance of low plains and meadows on the +river, bounded a few miles back by broken hills, which end in high level +fertile lands, the quantity of timber is however increasing. The +appearance of minerals continues as usual, and to-day we found several +stones which seemed to have been wood, first carbonated and then +petrified by the water of the Missouri, which has the same effect on +many vegetable substances. There is indeed reason to believe that the +strata of coal in the hills cause the fire and appearances which they +exhibit of being burned. Whenever these marks present themselves in the +bluffs on the river, the coal is seldom seen, and when found in the +neighborhood of the strata of burnt earth, the coal with the sand and +sulphurous matter usually accompanying it, is precisely at the same +height and nearly of the same thickness with those strata. We passed +three small creeks or rather runs, which rise in the hills to the north. +Numbers of geese, and few ducks chiefly of the mallard and bluewinged +teal, many buffaloe, elk and deer were also observed, and in the +timbered low grounds this morning we were surprised to observe a great +quantity of old hornets' nests: we encamped in a point of woods on the +south, having come eighteen miles, though the circuits which we were +obliged to make around sandbars very much increased the real distance. + +Wednesday, April 17. We set off early, the weather being fine, and the +wind so favourable as to enable us to sail the greater part of the +course. At ten and three quarter miles we passed a creek ten yards wide +on the south; at eighteen miles a little run on the north, and at night +encamped in a woody point on the south. We had travelled twenty-six +miles through a country similar to that of yesterday, except that there +were greater appearances of burnt hills, furnishing large quantities of +lava and pumicestone, of the last of which we observe some pieces +floating down the river, as we had previously done, as low as the Little +Missouri. In all the copses of wood are the remains of the Assiniboin +encampments; around us are great quantities of game, such as herds of +buffaloe, elk, antelopes, some deer and wolves, the tracks of bears, a +curlue was also seen, and we obtained three beaver, the flesh of which +is more relished by the men than any other food which we have. Just +before we encamped we saw some tracks of Indians, who had passed +twenty-four hours before, and left four rafts, and whom we supposed to +be a band of Assiniboins on their return from war against the Indians on +the Rocky mountains. + +Thursday 18. We had again a pleasant day, and proceeded on with a +westerly wind, which however changed to N.W. and blew so hard that we +were obliged to stop at one o'clock and remain four hours, when it +abated and we then continued our course. + +We encamped about dark on a woody bank having made thirteen miles. The +country presented the usual variety of highlands interspersed with rich +plains. In one of these we observed a species of pea bearing a yellow +flower, which is now in blossom, the leaf and stalk resembling the +common pea. It seldom rises higher than six inches, and the root is +perennial. On the rose bushes we also saw a quantity of the hair of the +buffaloe, which had become perfectly white by exposure, and resembled +the wool of the sheep, except that it was much finer and more soft and +silky. A buffaloe which we killed yesterday had shed his long hair, and +that which remained was about two inches long, thick, fine, and would +have furnished five pounds of wool, of which we have no doubt an +excellent cloth may be made. Our game to-day was a beaver, a deer, an +elk, and some geese. The river has been crooked all day and bearing +towards the south. + +On the hills we observed considerable quantities of dwarf juniper, which +seldom grows higher than three feet. We killed in the course of the day +an elk, three geese and a beaver. The beaver on this part of the +Missouri are in greater quantities, larger and fatter, and their fur is +more abundant and of a darker colour than any we had hitherto seen: +their favourite food seems to be the bark of the cottonwood and willow, +as we have seen no other species of tree that has been touched by them, +and these they gnaw to the ground through a diameter of twenty inches. + +The next day, Friday, 19th, the wind was so high from northwest that we +could not proceed, but being less violent on + +Saturday, 20th, we set off about seven o'clock, and had nearly lost one +of the canoes as we left the shore, by the falling in of a large part of +the bank. The wind too became again so strong that we could scarcely +make one mile an hour, and the sudden squalls so dangerous to the small +boats, that we stopped for the night among some willows on the north, +not being able to advance more than six and a half miles. In walking +through the neighbouring plains we found a fine fertile soil covered +with cottonwood, some box, alder, ash, red elm, and an undergrowth of +willow, rosebushes, honeysuckle, red willow, gooseberry, currant, and +serviceberries, and along the foot of the hills great quantities of +hysop. Our hunters procured elk and deer which are now lean, and six +beaver which are fatter and more palatable. Along the plain there were +also some Indian camps; near one of these was a scaffold about seven +feet high, on which were two sleds with their harness, and under it the +body of a female, carefully wrapped in several dressed buffaloe skins; +near it lay a bag made of buffaloe skin, containing a pair of moccasins, +some red and blue paint, beaver's nails, scrapers for dressing hides, +some dried roots, several plaits of sweet grass, and a small quantity of +Mandan tobacco. These things as well as the body itself had probably +fallen down by accident, as the custom is to place them on the scaffold. +At a little distance was the body of a dog not yet decayed, who had met +this reward for having dragged thus far in the sled the corpse of his +mistress, to whom according to the Indian usage he had been sacrificed. + +Sunday, 21st. Last night there was a hard white frost, and this morning +the weather cold, but clear and pleasant: in the course of the day +however it became cloudy and the wind rose. The country is of the same +description as within the few last days. We saw immense quantities of +buffaloe, elk, deer, antelopes, geese, and some swan and ducks, out of +which we procured three deer, four buffaloe calves, which last are equal +in flavour to the most delicious veal; also two beaver, and an otter. We +passed one large and two small creeks on the south side, and reached at +sixteen miles the mouth of Whiteearth river, coming in from the north. +This river before it reaches the low grounds near the Missouri, is a +fine bold stream sixty yards wide, and is deep and navigable, but it is +so much choked up at the entrance by the mud of the Missouri, that its +mouth is not more than ten yards wide. Its course, as far as we could +discern from the neighbouring hills, is nearly due north, passing +through a beautiful and fertile valley, though without a tree or bush of +any description. Half a mile beyond this river we encamped on the same +side below a point of highland, which from its appearance we call Cut +bluff. + +Monday, 22d. The day clear and cold: we passed a high bluff on the north +and plains on the south, in which were large herds of buffaloe, till +breakfast, when the wind became so strong ahead that we proceeded with +difficulty even with the aid of the towline. Some of the party now +walked across to the Whiteearth river, which here at the distance of +four miles from its mouth approaches very near to the Missouri. It +contains more water than is usual in streams of the same size at this +season, with steep banks about ten or twelve feet high, and the water is +much clearer than that of the Missouri; the salts which have been +mentioned as common on the Missouri, are here so abundant that in many +places the ground appears perfectly white, and from this circumstance it +may have derived its name; it waters an open country and is navigable +almost to its source, which is not far from the Saskaskawan, and judging +from its size and course, it is probable that it extends as far north as +the fiftieth degree of latitude. After much delay in consequence of the +high wind, we succeeded in making eleven miles, and encamped in a low +ground on the south covered with cottonwood and rabbitberries. The hills +of the Missouri near this place exhibit large irregular broken masses of +rocks and stones, some of which, although two hundred feet above the +water, seem at some remote period to have been subject to its influence, +being apparently worn smooth by the agitation of the water. These rocks +and stones consist of white and gray granite, a brittle black rock, +flint, limestone, freestone, some small specimens of an excellent +pebble, and occasionally broken stratas of a black coloured stone like +petrified wood, which make good whetstones. The usual appearances of +coal, or carbonated wood, and pumicestone still continue, the coal being +of a better quality and when burnt affords a hot and lasting fire, +emitting very little smoke or flame. There are huge herds of deer, elk, +buffaloe, and antelopes in view of us: the buffaloe are not so shy as +the rest, for they suffer us to approach within one hundred yards before +they run, and then stop and resume their pasture at a very short +distance. The wolves to-day pursued a herd of them, and at length caught +a calf that was unable to keep up with the rest; the mothers on these +occasions defending their young as long as they can retreat as fast as +the herd, but seldom returning any distance to seek for them. + +Tuesday 23. A clear and pleasant morning, but at nine o'clock the wind +became so high that the boats were in danger of upsetting; we therefore +were forced to stop at a place of safety till about five in the +afternoon, when the wind being lower we proceeded and encamped on the +north at the distance of thirteen and a half miles: the party on shore +brought us a buffaloe calf and three blacktailed deer: the sand on the +river has the same appearances as usual, except that the quantity of +wood increases. + +Wednesday 24. The wind blew so high during the whole day that we were +unable to move; such indeed was its violence, that although we were +sheltered by high timber the waves wet many articles in the boats: the +hunters went out and returned with four deer, two elk, and some young +wolves of the small kind. The party are very much afflicted with sore +eyes, which we presume are occasioned by the vast quantities of sand +which are driven from the sandbars in such clouds as often to hide from +us the view of the opposite bank. The particles of this sand are so fine +and light that it floats for miles in the air like a column of thick +smoke, and is so penetrating that nothing can be kept free from it, and +we are compelled to eat, drink, and breathe it very copiously. To the +same cause we attribute the disorder of one of our watches, although her +cases are double and tight; since without any defect in its works, that +we can discover, it will not run for more than a few minutes without +stopping. + +Thursday 25. The wind moderated this morning, but was still high; we +therefore set out early, the weather being so cold that the water froze +on the oars as we rowed, and about ten o'clock the wind increased so +much that we were obliged to stop. This detention from the wind and the +reports from our hunters of the crookedness of the river, induced us to +believe that we were at no great distance from the Yellowstone river. In +order therefore to prevent delay as much as possible, captain Lewis +determined to go on by land in search of that river, and make the +necessary observations, so as to be enabled to proceed on immediately +after the boats should join him; he therefore landed about eleven +o'clock on the south side, accompanied by four men; the boats were +prevented from going until five in the afternoon, when they went on a +few miles further and encamped for the night at the distance of fourteen +and a half miles. + +Friday 26. We continued our voyage in the morning and by twelve o'clock +encamped at eight miles distance, at the junction of the Missouri and +Yellowstone rivers; where we were soon joined by captain Lewis. + +On leaving us yesterday he pursued his route along the foot of the +hills, which he ascended at the distance of eight miles; from these the +wide plains watered by the Missouri and the Yellowstone spread +themselves before the eye, occasionally varied with the wood of the +banks, enlivened by the irregular windings of the two rivers, and +animated by vast herds of buffaloe, deer, elk, and antelope. The +confluence of the two rivers was concealed by the wood, but the +Yellowstone itself was only two miles distant to the south. He therefore +descended the hills and encamped on the bank of the river, having killed +as he crossed the plain four buffaloes; the deer alone are shy and +retire to the woods, but the elk, antelope, and buffaloe suffered him to +approach them without alarm, and often followed him quietly for some +distance. This morning he sent a man up the river to examine it, while +he proceeded down to the junction: the ground on the lower side of the +Yellowstone near its mouth, is flat, and for about a mile seems to be +subject to inundation, while that at the point or junction, as well as +on the opposite side of the Missouri, is at the usual height of ten or +eighteen feet above the water, and therefore not overflown. There is +more timber in the neighbourhood of this place, and on the Missouri, as +far below as the Whiteearth river, than on any other part of the +Missouri on this side of the Chayenne: the timber consists principally +of cottonwood, with some small elm, ash, and box alder. On the sandbars +and along the margin of the river grows the small-leafed willow; in the +low grounds adjoining are scattered rosebushes three or four feet high, +the redberry, serviceberry and redwood. The higher plains are either +immediately on the river, in which case they are generally timbered, and +have an undergrowth like that of the low grounds, with the addition of +the broad-leafed willow, gooseberry, chokecherry, purple currant, and +honeysuckle; or they are between the low grounds and the hills, and for +the most part without wood or any thing except large quantities of wild +hysop; this plant rises about two feet high, and like the willow of the +sandbars is a favourite food of the buffaloe, elk, deer, grouse, +porcupine, hare, and rabbit. This river which had been known to the +French as the Roche jaune, or as we have called it the Yellowstone, +rises according to Indian information in the Rocky mountains; its +sources are near those of the Missouri and the Platte, and it may be +navigated in canoes almost to its head. It runs first through a +mountainous country, but in many parts fertile and well timbered; it +then waters a rich delightful land, broken into vallies and meadows, and +well supplied with wood and water till it reaches near the Missouri open +meadows and low grounds, sufficiently timbered on its borders. In the +upper country its course is represented as very rapid, but during the +two last and largest portions, its current is much more gentle than that +of the Missouri, which it resembles also in being turbid though with +less sediment. The man who was sent up the river, reported in the +evening that he had gone about eight miles, that during that distance +the river winds on both sides of a plain four or five miles wide, that +the current was gentle and much obstructed by sandbars, that at five +miles he had met with a large timbered island, three miles beyond which +a creek falls in on the S.E. above a high bluff, in which are several +strata of coal. The country as far as he could discern, resembled that +of the Missouri, and in the plain he met several of the bighorn animals, +but they were too shy to be obtained. The bed of the Yellowstone, as we +observed it near the mouth, is composed of sand and mud, without a stone +of any kind. Just above the confluence we measured the two rivers, and +found the bed of the Missouri five hundred and twenty yards wide, the +water occupying only three hundred and thirty, and the channel deep: +while the Yellowstone, including its sandbar, occupied eight hundred and +fifty-eight yards, with two hundred and ninety-seven yards of water: the +deepest part of the channel is twelve feet, but the river is now falling +and seems to be nearly at its summer height. + +April 27. We left the mouth of the Yellowstone. From the point of +junction a wood occupies the space between the two rivers, which at the +distance of a mile comes within two hundred and fifty yards of each +other. There a beautiful low plain commences, and widening as the rivers +recede, extends along each of them for several miles, rising about half +a mile from the Missouri into a plain twelve feet higher than itself. +The low plain is a few inches above high water mark, and where it joins +the higher plain there is a channel of sixty or seventy yards in width, +through which a part of the Missouri when at its greatest height passes +into the Yellowstone. At two and a half miles above the junction and +between the high and low plain is a small lake, two hundred yards wide, +extending for a mile parallel with the Missouri along the edge of the +upper plain. At the lower extremity of this lake, about four hundred +yards from the Missouri, and twice that distance from the Yellowstone, +is a situation highly eligible for a trading establishment; it is in the +high plain which extends back three miles in width, and seven or eight +miles in length, along the Yellowstone, where it is bordered by an +extensive body of woodland, and along the Missouri with less breadth, +till three miles above it is circumscribed by the hills within a space +four yards in width. A sufficient quantity of limestone for building may +easily be procured near the junction of the rivers; it does not lie in +regular stratas, but is in large irregular masses, of a light colour and +apparently of an excellent quality. Game too is very abundant, and as +yet quite gentle; above all, its elevation recommends it as preferable +to the land at the confluence of the rivers, which their variable +channels may render very insecure. The N.W. wind rose so high at eleven +o'clock, that we were obliged to stop till about four in the afternoon, +when we proceeded till dusk. On the south a beautiful plain separates +the two rivers, till at about six miles there is a timbered piece of low +ground, and a little above it bluffs, where the country rises gradually +from the river; the situations on the north more high and open. We +encamped on that side, the wind, the sand which it raised, and the +rapidity of the current having prevented our advancing more than eight +miles; during the latter part of the day the river becomes wider and +crowded with sandbars: although the game is in such plenty we kill only +what is necessary for our subsistence. For several days past we have +seen great numbers of buffaloe lying dead along the shore, and some of +them partly devoured by the wolves; they have either sunk through the +ice during the winter, or been drowned in attempting to cross, or else, +after crossing to some high bluff, found themselves too much exhausted +either to ascend or swim back again, and perished for want of food; in +this situation we found several small parties of them. There are geese +too in abundance, and more bald-eagles than we have hitherto observed; +the nests of these last being always accompanied by those of two or +three magpies, who are their inseparable attendants. + + + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + Unusual appearance of salt--The formidable character of the white + bear--Porcupine river described--Beautiful appearance of the + surrounding country--Immense quantities of game--Milk river + described--Extraordinary character of Bigdry river--An instance of + uncommon tenacity of life in a white bear--Narrow escape of one of + the party from that animal--A still more remarkable + instance--Muscleshell river described. + + +Sunday 28. The day was clear and pleasant, and the wind having shifted +to southeast, we could employ our sails, and went twenty-four miles to a +low ground on the north opposite to steep bluffs: the country on both +sides is much broken, the hills approaching nearer to the river, and +forming bluffs, some of a white and others of a red colour, and +exhibiting the usual appearances of minerals, and some burnt hills +though without any pumicestone; the salts are in greater quantities than +usual, and the banks and sandbars are covered with a white incrustation +like frost. The low grounds are level, fertile and partially timbered, +but are not so wide as for a few days past. The woods are now green, but +the plains and meadows seem to have less verdure than those below: the +only streams which we met to-day are two small runs on the north and one +on the south, which rise in the neighbouring hills, and have very little +water. At the distance of eighteen miles the Missouri makes a +considerable bend to the southeast: the game is very abundant, the +common, and mule or blacktailed deer, elk, buffaloe, antelope, brown +bear, beaver, and geese. The beaver have committed great devastation +among the trees, one of which, nearly three feet in diameter, has been +gnawed through by them. + +Monday 29. We proceeded early with a moderate wind: captain Lewis who +was on shore with one hunter met about eight o'clock two white bears: of +the strength and ferocity of this animal, the Indians had given us +dreadful accounts: they never attack him but in parties of six or eight +persons, and even then are often defeated with the loss of one or more +of the party. Having no weapons but bows and arrows, and the bad guns +with which the traders supply them, they are obliged to approach very +near to the bear; and as no wound except through the head or heart is +mortal, they frequently fall a sacrifice if they miss their aim. He +rather attacks than avoids a man, and such is the terror which he has +inspired, that the Indians who go in quest of him paint themselves and +perform all the superstitious rites customary when they make war on a +neighbouring nation. Hitherto those we had seen did not appear desirous +of encountering us, but although to a skilful rifleman the danger is +very much diminished, yet the white bear is still a terrible animal: on +approaching these two, both captain Lewis and the hunter fired and each +wounded a bear: one of them made his escape; the other turned upon +captain Lewis and pursued him seventy or eighty yards, but being badly +wounded he could not run so fast as to prevent him from reloading his +piece, which he again aimed at him, and a third shot from the hunter +brought him to the ground: he was a male not quite full grown, and +weighed about three hundred pounds: the legs are somewhat longer than +those of the black bear, and the talons and tusks much larger and +longer. The testicles are also placed much farther forward and suspended +in separate pouches from two to four inches asunder, while those of the +black bear are situated back between the thighs and in a single pouch +like those of the dog: its colour is a yellowish brown, the eyes small, +black, and piercing, the front of the fore legs near the feet is usually +black, and the fur is finer, thicker, and deeper than that of the black +bear: add to which, it is a more furious animal, and very remarkable for +the wounds which it will bear without dying. + +We are surrounded with deer, elk, buffaloe, antelopes, and their +companions the wolves, who have become more numerous and make great +ravages among them: the hills are here much more rough and high, and +almost overhang the banks of the river. There are greater appearances of +coal than we have hitherto seen, the stratas of it being in some places +six feet thick, and there are stratas of burnt earth, which are always +on the same level with those of coal. In the evening after coming +twenty-five miles we encamped at the entrance of a river which empties +itself into a bend on the north side of the Missouri: this stream which +we called Martha's river, is about fifty yards wide, with water for +fifteen yards, the banks are of earth, and steep, though not high, and +the bed principally of mud. Captain Clarke, who ascended it for three +miles, found that it continued of the same width with a gentle current, +and pursuing its course about north 30° west, through an extensive, +fertile, and beautiful valley, but without a single tree. The water is +clear, and has a brownish yellow tint; at this place the highlands which +yesterday and to-day had approached so near the river became lower, and +receding from the water left a valley seven or eight miles wide. + +Tuesday 30. The wind was high from the north during last evening and +continued so this morning: we however continued, and found the river +more winding than usual and with a number of sand islands and bars, on +one of which last we encamped at the distance of twenty-four miles. The +low grounds are fertile and extensive but with very little timber, and +that cottonwood, very bad of its kind, being too small for planks, and +broken and dead at the top and unsound in the centre of the trunk. We +passed some ancient lodges of driftwood which do not appear to have been +lately inhabited. The game continues abundant: we killed the largest +male elk we have yet seen; on placing it in its natural erect position, +we found that it measured five feet three inches from the point of the +hoof to the top of the shoulder. The antelopes are yet lean and the +females are with young: this fleet and quick-sighted animal is generally +the victim of its curiosity: when they first see the hunters they run +with great velocity; if he lies down on the ground and lifts up his arm, +his hat, or his foot, the antelope returns on a light trot to look at +the object, and sometimes goes and returns two or three times till they +approach within reach of the rifle; so too they sometimes leave their +flock to go and look at the wolves who crouch down, and if the antelope +be frightened at first repeat the same manoeuvre, and sometimes relieve +each other till they decoy it from the party when they seize it. But +generally the wolves take them as they are crossing the rivers, for +although swift of foot they are not good swimmers. + +Wednesday, May 1. The wind was in our favour and we were enabled to use +the sails till twelve o'clock, when the wind became so high and squally +that we were forced to come to at the distance of ten miles on the +south, in a low ground stocked with cottonwood, and remain there during +the day; one of the canoes being separated from us, and not able to +cross over in consequence of the high waves. The country around is more +pleasant than that through which we had passed for several days, the +hills being lower, the low grounds wider and better supplied with +timber, which consists principally of cottonwood: the undergrowth willow +on the banks and sandbars, rosebushes, redwillow, and the broad-leafed +willow in the low plains, while the high country on both sides is one +extensive plain without wood, though the soil is a dark, rich, mellow +loam. Our hunters killed a buffaloe, an elk, a goat, and two beaver, and +also a bird of the plover kind. + +Thursday, 2d. The wind continued high during the night, and at daylight +it began to snow and did not stop till ten o'clock, when the ground was +covered an inch deep, forming a striking contrast with the vegetation +which is now considerably advanced; some flowers having put forth, and +the cottonwood leaves as large as a dollar. The wind lulled about five +o'clock in the afternoon, and we then proceeded along wide fertile low +grounds and high level plains, and encamped at the distance of four +miles. Our game to-day was deer, elk, and buffaloe: we also procured +three beaver who are quite gentle, as they have not been hunted, but +when the hunters are in pursuit they never leave their huts during the +day: this animal we esteem a great delicacy, particularly the tail, +which when boiled resembles in flavor the flesh tongues and sounds of +the codfish, and is generally so large as to afford a plentiful meal for +two men. One of the hunters in passing near an old Indian camp found +several yards of scarlet cloth, suspended on the bough of a tree as a +sacrifice to the deity by the Assiniboins: the custom of making these +offerings being common among that people as indeed among all the Indians +on the Missouri. The air was sharp this evening; the water froze on the +oars as we rowed, and in the morning. + +Friday, 3d, the weather became quite cold, the ice was a quarter of an +inch thick in the kettle, and the snow still continued on the hills +though it has melted from the plains. The wind too continued high from +the west, but not so violently as to prevent our going on. At two miles +from our encampment we passed a curious collection of bushes about +thirty feet high and ten or twelve in diameter, tied in the form of a +fascine and standing on end in the middle of the low ground: this too we +supposed to have been left by the Indians as a religious sacrifice: at +twelve o'clock the usual hour we halted for dinner. The low grounds on +the river are much wider than common, sometimes extending from five to +nine miles to the highlands, which are much lower than heretofore, not +being more than fifty or sixty feet above the lower plain: through all +this valley traces of the ancient bed of the river are every where +visible, and since the hills have become lower, the stratas of coal, +burnt earth, and pumicestone have in a great measure ceased, there +being in fact none to-day. At the distance of fourteen miles we reached +the mouth of a river on the north, which from the unusual number of +porcupines near it, we called Porcupine river. This is a bold and +beautiful stream one hundred and twelve yards wide, though the water is +only forty yards at its entrance: captain Clarke who ascended it several +miles and passed it above where it enters the highlands, found it +continued nearly of the same width and about knee deep, and as far as he +could distinguish for twenty miles from the hills, its course was from a +little to the east of north. There was much timber on the low grounds: +he found some limestone also on the surface of the earth in the course +of his walk, and saw a range of low mountains at a distance to the west +of north, whose direction was northwest; the adjoining country being +every where level, fertile, open, and exceedingly beautiful. The water +of this river is transparent, and is the only one that is so of all +those that fall into the Missouri: before entering a large sandbar +through which it discharges itself, its low grounds are formed of a +stiff blue and black clay, and its banks which are from eight to ten +feet high and seldom if ever overflow are composed of the same +materials. From the quantity of water which this river contains, its +direction, and the nature of the country through which it passes, it is +not improbable that its sources may be near the main body of the +Saskaskawan, and as in high water it can be no doubt navigated to a +considerable distance, it may be rendered the means of intercourse with +the Athabasky country, from which the northwest company derive so many +of their valuable furs. + +A quarter of a mile beyond this river a creek falls in on the south, to +which on account of its distance from the mouth of the Missouri, we gave +it the name of Two-thousand mile creek: it is a bold stream with a bed +thirty yards wide. Three miles and a half above Porcupine river, we +reached some high timber on the north, and encamped just above an old +channel of the river, which is now dry. We saw vast quantities of +buffaloe, elk, deer, principally of the long tailed kind, antelopes, +beaver, geese, ducks, brant, and some swan. The porcupines too are +numerous, and so careless and clumsy that we can approach very near +without disturbing them as they are feeding on the young willows; +towards evening we also found for the first time, the nest of a goose +among some driftwood, all that we have hitherto seen being on the top of +a broken tree on the forks, and invariably from fifteen to twenty feet +or more in height. + +Saturday 4. We were detained till nine in order to repair the rudder of +one of the boats, and when we set out the wind was ahead; at six and a +half miles we passed a small creek in a deep bend on the south with a +sand island opposite to it, and then passing along an extensive plain +which gradually rises from the north side of the river, encamped at the +distance of eighteen miles in a point of woodland on the north: the +river is this day wider than usual, and crowded with sandbars on all +sides: the country is level, fertile, and beautiful, the low grounds +extensive and contain a much greater portion of timber than is common: +indeed all the forepart of the day the river was bordered with timber on +both sides, a circumstance very rare on the Missouri, and the first that +has occurred since we left the Mandans. There are as usual vast +quantities of game, and extremely gentle; the male buffaloe particularly +will scarcely give way to us, and as we approach will merely look at us +for a moment, as something new, and then quietly resume their feeding. +In the course of the day we passed some old Indian hunting camps, one of +which consisted of two large lodges fortified with a circular fence, +twenty or thirty feet in diameter, and made of timber laid horizontally, +the beams overlaying each other to the height of five feet, and covered +with the trunks and limbs of trees that have drifted down the river: the +lodges themselves are formed by three or more strong sticks about the +size of a man's leg or arm, and twelve feet long, which are attached at +the top by a whith of small willows, and spreading out so as to form at +the base a circle of ten or fourteen feet in diameter: against these are +placed pieces of driftwood and fallen timber, usually in three ranges +one on the other, and the interstices are covered with leaves, bark, and +straw, so as to form a conical figure about ten feet high, with a small +aperture in one side for the door. It is, however, at best a very +imperfect shelter against the inclemencies of the seasons. + +Sunday 5. We had a fine morning, and the wind being from the east we +used our sails. At the distance of five miles we came to a small island, +and twelve miles farther encamped on the north, at the distance of +seventeen miles. The country like that of yesterday is beautiful in the +extreme. Among the vast quantities of game around us, we distinguish a +small species of goose differing considerably from the common Canadian +goose; its neck, head, and beak, being much thicker, larger, and shorter +in proportion to its size, which is nearly a third smaller; the noise +too resembling more that of the brant or of a young goose that has not +yet fully acquired its note; in other respects its colour, habits, and +the number of feathers in the tail, the two species correspond; this +species also associates in flocks with the large geese, but we have not +seen it pair off with them. The white brant is about the size of the +common brown brant, or two thirds of the common goose, than which it is +also six inches shorter from the extremity of the wings, though the +beak, head, and neck are larger and stronger: the body and wings are of +a beautiful pure white, except the black feathers of the first and +second joints of the wings; the beak and legs are of a reddish or +flesh-coloured white, the eye of a moderate size, the pupil of a deep +sea-green incircled with a ring of yellowish brown, the tail consists of +sixteen feathers equally long, the flesh is dark and as well as its note +differs but little from those of the common brant, whom in form and +habits it resembles, and with whom it sometimes unites in a common +flock; the white brant also associate by themselves in large flocks, but +as they do not seem to be mated or paired off, it is doubtful whether +they reside here during the summer for the purpose of rearing their +young. + +The wolves are also very abundant, and are of two species. First, the +small wolf or burrowing dog of the prairies, which are found in almost +all the open plains. It is of an intermediate size between the fox and +dog, very delicately formed, fleet and active. The ears are large, +erect, and pointed, the head long and pointed, like that of the fox; the +tail long and bushy; the hair and fur of a pale reddish brown colour, +though much coarser than that of the fox; the eye of a deep sea-green +colour, small and piercing; the talons rather longer than those of the +wolf of the Atlantic states, which animal as far as we can perceive is +not to be found on this side of the river Platte. These wolves usually +associate in bands of ten or twelve, and are rarely if ever seen alone, +not being able singly to attack a deer or antelope. They live and rear +their young in burrows, which they fix near some pass or spot much +frequented by game, and sally out in a body against any animal which +they think they can overpower, but on the slightest alarm retreat to +their burrows making a noise exactly like that of a small dog. + +The second species is lower, shorter in the legs and thicker than the +Atlantic wolf; their colour, which is not affected by the seasons, is of +every variety of shade, from a gray or blackish brown to a cream +coloured white. They do not burrow, nor do they bark, but howl, and they +frequent the woods and plains, and skulk along the skirts of the +buffaloe herds, in order to attack the weary or wounded. + +Captain Clarke and one of the hunters met this evening the largest brown +bear we have seen. As they fired he did not attempt to attack, but fled +with a most tremendous roar, and such was its extraordinary tenacity of +life, that although he had five balls passed through his lungs and five +other wounds, he swam more than half across the river to a sandbar, and +survived twenty minutes. He weighed between five and six hundred pounds +at least, and measured eight feet seven inches and a half from the nose +to the extremity of the hind feet, five feet ten inches and half round +the breast, three feet eleven inches round the neck, one foot eleven +inches round the middle of the foreleg, and his talons, five on each +foot, were four inches and three eighths in length. It differs from the +common black bear in having its talons much longer and more blunt; its +tail shorter; its hair of a reddish or bay brown, longer, finer, and +more abundant; his liver, lungs, and heart, much larger even in +proportion to his size, the heart particularly being equal to that of a +large ox; his maw ten times larger; his testicles pendant from the belly +and in separate pouches four inches apart: besides fish and flesh he +feeds on roots, and every kind of wild fruit. + +The antelope are now lean and with young, so that they may readily be +caught at this season, as they cross the river from S.W. to N.E. + +Monday 6. The morning being fair and the wind favourable, we set sail, +and proceeded on very well the greater part of the day. The country +continues level, rich, and beautiful; the low grounds wide and +comparatively with the other parts of the Missouri, well supplied with +wood. The appearances of coal, pumicestone, and burnt earth have ceased, +though the salts of tartar or vegetable salts continue on the banks and +sandbars, and sometimes in the little ravines at the base of the low +hills. We passed three streams on the south; the first at the distance +of one mile and a half from our camp was about twenty-five yards wide, +but although it contained some water in standing pools it discharges +none; this we called Littledry creek, about eight miles beyond which is +Bigdry creek; fifty yards wide, without any water; the third is six +miles further, and has the bed of a large river two hundred yards wide, +yet without a drop of water: like the other two this stream, which we +called Bigdry river, continues its width undiminished as far as we can +discern. The banks are low, this channel formed of a fine brown sand, +intermixed with a small proportion of little pebbles of various colours, +and the country around flat and without trees. They had recently +discharged their waters, and from their appearance and the nature of the +country through which they pass, we concluded that they rose in the +Black mountains, or in the level low plains which are probably between +this place and the mountains; that the country being nearly of the same +kind and of the same latitude, the rains of spring melting the snows +about the same time, conspire with them to throw at once vast quantities +of water down these channels, which are then left dry during the summer, +autumn, and winter, when there is very little rain. We had to-day a +slight sprinkling. But it lasted a very short time. The game is in such +plenty that it has become a mere amusement to supply the party with +provisions. We made twenty-five miles to a clump of trees on the north +where we passed the night. + +Tuesday 7. The morning was pleasant and we proceeded at an early hour. +There is much driftwood floating, and what is contrary to our +expectation, although the river is rising, the water is somewhat clearer +than usual. At eleven o'clock the wind became so high that one of the +boats was nearly sunk, and we were obliged to stop till one, when we +proceeded on, and encamped on the south, above a large sandbar +projecting from the north, having made fifteen miles. On the north side +of the river are the most beautiful plains we have yet seen: they rise +gradually from the low grounds on the water to the height of fifty or +sixty feet, and then extend in an unbroken level as far as the eye can +reach: the hills on the south are more broken and higher, though at some +distance back the country becomes level and fertile. There are no more +appearances of burnt earth, coal, or pumicestone, though that of salt +still continues, and the vegetation seems to have advanced but little +since the twenty-eighth of last month: the game is as abundant as usual. +The bald-eagles, of whom we see great numbers, probably feed on the +carcases of dead animals, for on the whole Missouri we have seen neither +the blue-crested fisher, nor the fishing-hawks, to supply them with +their favourite food, and the water of the river is so turbid that no +bird which feeds exclusively on fish can procure a subsistence. + +Wednesday 8. A light breeze from the east carried us sixteen miles, till +we halted for dinner at the entrance of a river on the north. Captain +Clarke who had walked on the south, on ascending a high point opposite +to its entrance discovered a level and beautiful country which it +watered; that its course for twelve or fifteen miles was N.W. when it +divided into two nearly equal branches, one pursuing a direction nearly +north, the other to the W. of N.W: its width at the entrance is one +hundred and fifty yards, and on going three miles up, captain Lewis +found it to be of the same breadth, and sometimes more; it is deep, +gentle, and has a large quantity of water; its bed is principally of +mud, the banks abrupt, about twelve feet in height, and formed of a +dark, rich loam and blue clay; the low grounds near it are wide and +fertile, and possess a considerable proportion of cottonwood and willow. +It seems to be navigable for boats and canoes, and this circumstance +joined to its course and the quantity of water, which indicates that it +passes through a large extent of country, we are led to presume that it +may approach the Saskashawan and afford a communication with that river. +The water has a peculiar whiteness, such as might be produced by a +tablespoon full of milk in a dish of tea, and this circumstance induced +us to call it Milk river. In the evening we had made twenty-seven miles, +and encamped on the south. The country on that side consists in general +of high broken hills, with much gray, black and brown granite scattered +over the surface of the ground. At a little distance from the river +there is no timber on either side, the wood being confined as below to +the margin of the river; so that unless the contrary is particularly +mentioned, it is always understood that the upland is perfectly naked, +and that we consider the low grounds well timbered if even a fifth be +covered with wood. The wild liquorice is found in great abundance on +these hills, as is also the white apple. As usual we are surrounded by +buffaloe, elk, common and blacktailed deer, beaver, antelopes and +wolves. We observed a place where an Indian had recently taken the hair +off an antelope's skin, and some of the party thought they distinguished +imperfectly some smoke and Indian lodges up Milk river, marks which we +are by no means desirous of realizing, as the Indians are probably +Assiniboins, and might be very troublesome. + +Thursday, 9th. We again had a favourable wind and sailed along very +well. Between four and five miles we passed a large island in a deep +bend to the north, and a large sandbar at the upper point. At fifteen +and a quarter miles we reached the bed of a most extraordinary river +which presents itself on the south: though as wide as the Missouri +itself, that is about half a mile, it does not discharge a drop of water +and contains nothing but a few standing pools. On ascending it three +miles we found an eminence from which we saw the direction of the +channel, first south for ten or twelve miles, then turning to the east +of southeast as far as we could see; it passes through a wide valley +without timber, and the surrounding country consists of waving low hills +interspersed with some handsome level plains; the banks are abrupt and +consist of a black or yellow clay; or of a rich sandy loam, but though +they do not rise more than six or eight feet above the bed, they exhibit +no appearance of being overflowed: the bed is entirely composed of a +light brown sand, the particles of which like those of the Missouri are +extremely fine. Like the dry rivers we passed before, this seemed to +have discharged its waters recently, but the watermark indicated that +its greatest depth had not been more than two feet: this stream, if it +deserve the name, we called Bigdry river. About a mile below is a large +creek on the same side, which is also perfectly dry: the mineral salts +and quartz are in large quantities near this neighbourhood. The sand of +the Missouri from its mouth to this place has been mixed with a +substance which we had presumed to be a granulated chalk, but which is +most probably this quartz. The game is now in great quantities, +particularly the elk and buffaloe, which last is so gentle that the men +are obliged to drive them out of the way with sticks and stones. The +ravages of the beaver are very apparent: in one place the timber was +entirely prostrated for a space of three acres in front on the river and +one in depth, and great part of it removed, although the trees were in +large quantities, and some of them as thick as the body of a man. At the +distance of twenty-four miles we encamped, after making twenty-five and +a half miles, at the entrance of a small creek in a bend on the north; +to which we gave the name of Werner's creek after one of our men. + +For several days past the river has been as wide as it generally is near +its mouth, but as it is much shallower, crowded with sandbars, and the +colour of the water has become much clearer, we do not yet despair of +reaching the Rock mountains, for which we are very anxious. + +Friday, 10th. We had not proceeded more than four and a quarter miles +when the violence of the wind forced us to halt for the day under some +timber in a bend on the south side. The wind continued high, the clouds +thick and black, and we had a slight sprinkling of rain several times in +the course of the day. Shortly after our landing a dog came to us, and +as this induced us to believe that we are near the hunting grounds of +the Assiniboins, who are a vicious ill-disposed people, it was +necessary to be on our guard: we therefore inspected our arms which we +found in good order, and sent several hunters to scour the country, but +they returned in the evening having seen no tents, nor any recent tracks +of Indians. Biles and imposthumes are very common among the party, and +sore eyes continue in a greater or less degree with all of us; for the +imposthumes we use emollient poultices, and apply to the eyes a solution +of two grains of white vitriol and one of sugar of lead with one ounce +of water. + +Saturday, 11th. The wind blew very hard in the night, but having abated +this morning we went on very well, till in the afternoon the wind arose +and retarded our progress; the current too was strong, the river very +crooked, and the banks as usual constantly precipitating themselves in +large masses into the water. The highlands are broken and approach +nearer the river than they do below. The soil however of both hills and +low grounds appear as fertile as that further down the river: it +consists of a black looking loam with a small portion of sand, which +cover the hills and bluffs to the depth of twenty or thirty feet, and +when thrown in the water dissolves as readily as loaf-sugar, and +effervesces like marle; there are also great appearances of quartz and +mineral salts: the first is most commonly seen in the faces of the +bluffs, the second is found on the hills as well as the low grounds, and +in the gullies which come down from the hills; it lies in a crust of two +or three inches in depth, and may be swept up with a feather in large +quantities. There is no longer any appearance of coal burnt earth or +pumicestone. We saw and visited some high hills on the north side about +three miles from the river, whose tops were covered with the pitch-pine: +this in the first pine we have seen on the Missouri, and it is like that +of Virginia, except that the leaves are somewhat longer; among this pine +is also a dwarf cedar, sometimes between three or four feet high, but +generally spreading itself like a vine along the surface of the earth, +which it covers very closely, putting out roots from the under side. The +fruit and smell resemble those of the common red cedar, but the leaf is +finer and more delicate. The tops of the hills where these plants grow +have a soil quite different from that just described, the basis of it is +usually yellow or white clay, and the general appearance light coloured, +sandy, and barren, some scattering tufts of sedge being almost its only +herbage. About five in the afternoon one of our men who had been +afflicted with biles, and suffered to walk on shore, came running to the +boats with loud cries and every symptom of terror and distress: for some +time after we had taken him on board he was so much out of breath as to +be unable to describe the cause of his anxiety, but he at length told us +that about a mile and a half below he had shot a brown bear which +immediately turned and was in close pursuit of him; but the bear being +badly wounded could not overtake him. Captain Lewis with seven men +immediately went in search of him, and having found his track followed +him by the blood for a mile, and found him concealed in some thick +brushwood, and shot him with two balls through the skull. Though +somewhat smaller than that killed a few days ago, he was a monstrous +animal and a most terrible enemy: our man had shot him through the +centre of the lungs, yet he had pursued him furiously for half a mile, +then returned more than twice that distance, and with his talons had +prepared himself a bed in the earth two feet deep and five feet long, +and was perfectly alive when they found him, which was at least two +hours after he received the wound. The wonderful power of life which +these animals possess render them dreadful: their very track in the mud +or sand, which we have sometimes found eleven inches long and seven and +a quarter wide, exclusive of the talons, is alarming; and we had rather +encounter two Indians than meet a single brown bear. There is no chance +of killing them by a single shot unless the ball goes through the +brains, and this is very difficult on account of two large muscles +which cover the side of the forehead, and the sharp projection of the +centre of the frontal bone, which is also thick. Our encampment was on +the south at the distance of sixteen miles from that of last night; the +fleece and skin of the bear were a heavy burden for two men, and the oil +amounted to eight gallons. + +Sunday, 12th. The weather being clear and calm, we set out early. Within +a mile we came to a small creek, about twenty yards wide, emptying +itself on the south. At eleven and three quarter miles we reached a +point of woodland on the south, opposite to which is a creek of the same +width as the last, but with little water, which we called Pine creek. At +eighteen and three quarter miles we came to on the south opposite to the +lower point of a willow island, situated in a deep bend of the river to +the southeast: here we remained during the day, the wind having risen at +twelve so high that we could not proceed: it continued to blow violently +all night, with occasional sprinklings of rain from sunset till +midnight. On both sides of the river the country is rough and broken, +the low grounds becoming narrower; the tops of the hills on the north +exhibits some scattered pine and cedar, on the south the pine has not +yet commenced, though there is some cedar on the sides of the hills and +in the little ravines. The chokecherry, the wild hysop, sage, +fleshy-leafed thorn, and particularly the aromatic herb on which the +antelope and hare feed, are to be found on the plains and hills. The +soil of the hills has now altered its texture considerably: their bases, +like that of the river plains, is as usual a rich, black loam, while +from the middle to the summits they are composed of a light +brown-coloured earth, poor and sterile, and intermixed with a coarse +white sand. + +Monday, 13th. The wind was so strong that we could not proceed till +about one o'clock, when we had to encounter a current rather stronger +than usual. In the course of a mile and a half we passed two small +creeks on the south, one of eighteen the other of thirty yards width, +but neither of them containing any water, and encamped on the south at a +point of woodland, having made only seven miles. The country is much the +same as yesterday, with little timber in the low grounds, and a small +quantity of pine and cedar on the northern hills. The river however +continues to grow clearer, and this as well as the increased rapidity +induces us to hope for some change of country. The game is as usual so +abundant that we can get without difficulty all that is necessary. + +Tuesday, 14th. There was some fog on the river this morning, which is a +very rare occurrence. At the distance of a mile and a half we reached an +island in a bend on the north, which continued for about half a mile, +when at the head of it a large creek comes in on the north, to which we +gave the name of Gibson's creek. At seven and a half miles is a point of +rocks on the south, above a creek on the same side, which we called +Sticklodge creek: five miles further is a large creek on the south, +which like the two others has no running water; and at sixteen and a +half miles a timbered point on the north, where we encamped for the +night. The country is like that of yesterday, except that the low +grounds are wider; there are also many high black bluffs along the +banks: the game too is in great abundance. Towards evening the men in +the hindmost canoes discovered a large brown bear lying in the open +grounds, about three hundred paces from the river: six of them, all good +hunters, immediately went to attack him, and concealing themselves by a +small eminence came unperceived within forty paces of him: four of the +hunters now fired, and each lodged a ball in his body, two of them +directly through the lungs: the furious animal sprung up and ran +openmouthed upon them; as he came near, the two hunters who had reserved +their fire gave him two wounds, one of which breaking his shoulder +retarded his motion for a moment; but before they could reload he was so +near that they were obliged to run to the river, and before they +reached it he had almost overtaken them: two jumped into the canoe; the +other four separated, and concealing themselves in the willows fired as +fast as each could reload: they struck him several times, but instead of +weakening the monster each shot seemed only to direct him towards the +hunter, till at last he pursued two of them so closely, that they threw +aside their guns and pouches, and jumped down a perpendicular bank of +twenty feet into the river; the bear sprang after them, and was within a +few feet of the hindmost, when one of the hunters on shore shot him in +the head and finally killed him: they dragged him to the shore, and +found that eight balls had passed through him in different directions; +the bear was old and the meat tough, so that they took the skin only, +and rejoined us at camp, where we had been as much terrified by an +accident of a different kind. This was the narrow escape of one of our +canoes containing all our papers, instruments, medicine, and almost +every article indispensible for the success of our enterprise. The canoe +being under sail, a sudden squall of wind struck her obliquely, and +turned her considerably. The man at the helm, who was unluckily the +worst steersman of the party, became alarmed, and instead of putting her +before the wind luffed her up into it. The wind was so high that it +forced the brace of the squaresail out of the hand of the man who was +attending it, and instantly upset the canoe, which would have turned +bottom upwards but for the resistance made by the awning. Such was the +confusion on board, and the waves ran so high, that it was half a minute +before she righted, and then nearly full of water, but by baling out she +was kept from sinking until they rowed ashore; besides the loss of the +lives of three men who not being able to swim would probably have +perished, we should have been deprived of nearly every thing necessary +for our purpose, at a distance of between two and three thousand miles +from any place where we could supply the deficiency. + +Wednesday 15. As soon as a slight shower of rain had passed, we spread +out the articles to dry; but the weather was so damp and cloudy that +they derived little benefit from exposure. Our hunters procured us deer, +buffaloe, and beaver. + +Thursday 16. The morning was fair and we were enabled to dry and repack +our stores: the loss we sustained is chiefly in the medicines, many +articles of which are completely spoiled, and others considerably +injured. At four o'clock we embarked, and after making seven miles +encamped on the north near some wood: the country on both sides is +broken, the low grounds narrower and with less timber, though there are +some scattered pine and cedar on the steep declivities of the hills, +which are now higher than usual. A white bear tore the coat of one of +the men which he had left on shore; and two of the party wounded a large +panther who was feasting on a deer. We caught some lean antelopes as +they were swimming the river, and killed two buffaloe. + +Friday 17. We set out early and proceeded on very well; the banks being +firm and the shore bold we were enabled to use the towline, which, +whenever the banks will permit it, is the safest and most expeditious +mode of ascending the river, except under a sail with a steady breeze. +At the distance of ten and a half miles we came to the mouth of a small +creek on the south, below which the hills approach the river, and +continue near it during the day: three miles further is a large creek on +the north, and again six and three quarter miles beyond it, another +large creek to the south, which contain a small quantity of running +water of a brackish taste. The last we called Rattlesnake creek from our +seeing that animal near it. Although no timber can be observed on it +from the Missouri, it throws out large quantities of driftwood, among +which were some pieces of coal brought down by the stream. We continued +on one mile and a quarter, and encamped on the south, after making +twenty and a half miles. The country in general is rugged, the hills +high, with their summits and sides partially covered with pine and +cedar, and their bases on both sides washed by the river: like those +already mentioned the lower part of these hills is a dark rich loam, +while the upper region for one hundred and fifty feet consists of a +whitish brown sand, so hard as in many places to resemble stone, though +in fact very little stone or rock of any kind is to be seen on the +hills. The bed of the Missouri is much narrower than usual, being not +more than between two and three hundred yards in width, with an +uncommonly large proportion of gravel; but the sandbars, and low points +covered with willows have almost entirely disappeared: the timber on the +river consists of scarcely any thing more than a few scattered +cottonwood trees. The saline incrustations along the banks and the foot +of the hills are more abundant than usual. The game is in great +quantities, but the buffaloe are not so numerous as they were some days +ago: two rattlesnakes were seen to-day, and one of them killed: it +resembles those of the middle Atlantic states, being about two feet six +inches long, of a yellowish brown on the back and sides, variegated with +a row of oval dark brown spots lying transversely on the back from the +neck to the tail, and two other rows of circular spots of the same +colour on the sides along the edge of the scuta: there are one hundred +and seventy-six scuta on the belly, and seventeen on the tail. Captain +Clarke saw in his excursions a fortified Indian camp which appeared to +have been recently occupied, and was, we presumed, made by a party of +Minnetarees who went to war last March. + +Late at night we were roused by the sergeant of the guard in consequence +of a fire which had communicated to a tree overhanging our camp. The +wind was so high, that we had not removed the camp more than a few +minutes when a large part of the tree fell precisely on the spot it had +occupied, and would have crushed us if we had not been alarmed in time. + +Saturday 18. The wind continued high from the west, but by means of the +towline we were able to make nineteen miles, the sandbars being now few +in number, the river narrow and the current gentle; the willow has in a +great measure disappeared, and even the cottonwood, almost the only +timber remaining, is growing scarce. At twelve and three quarter miles +we came to a creek on the north, which was perfectly dry. We encamped on +the south opposite the lower point of an island. + +Sunday 19. The last night was disagreeably cold; and in the morning +there was a very heavy fog which obscured the river so much as to +prevent our seeing the way. This is the first fog of any degree of +thickness which we have experienced: there was also last evening a fall +of dew, the second which we have seen since entering this extensive open +country. About eight o'clock the fog dispersed, and we proceeded with +the aid of the towline: the island near which we were encamped, was +three quarters of a mile in length. The country resembles that of +yesterday, high hills closely bordering the river. In the afternoon the +river became crooked, and contained more sawyers or floating timber than +we have seen in the same space since leaving the Platte. Our game +consisted of deer, beaver, and elk: we also killed a brown bear, who, +although shot through the heart, ran at his usual pace nearly a quarter +of a mile before he fell. At twenty-one miles is a willow island half a +mile in length, on the north side, a quarter of a mile beyond which is a +shoal of rapid water under a bluff: the water continued very strong for +some distance beyond it: at half a mile we came to a sandbar on the +north, from which to our place of encampment was another half mile, +making in all twenty-two and a quarter miles. The saline substances +which we have mentioned continue to appear; and the men are much +afflicted with sore eyes and imposthumes. + +Monday 20. As usual we set out early, and the banks being convenient for +that purpose, we used the towline: the river is narrow and crooked, the +water rapid, and the country much like that of yesterday: at the +distance of two and a quarter miles we passed a large creek with but +little water, to which we gave the name of Blowingfly creek, from the +quantity of those insects found in its neighbourhood. They are extremely +troublesome, infesting our meat whilst cooking and at our meals. After +making seven miles we reached by eleven o'clock the mouth of a large +river on the south, and encamped for the day at the upper point of its +junction with the Missouri. This stream which we suppose to be that +called by the Minnetarees the Muscleshell river, empties into the +Missouri two thousand two hundred and seventy miles above the mouth of +the latter river, and in latitude 47° 0' 24" 6 north. It is one hundred +and ten yards wide, and contains more water than streams of that size +usually do in this country; its current is by no means rapid, and there +is every appearance of its being susceptible of navigation by canoes for +a considerable distance: its bed is chiefly formed of coarse sand and +gravel, with an occasional mixture of black mud; the banks abrupt and +nearly twelve feet high, so that they are secure from being overflowed: +the water is of a greenish yellow cast and much more transparent than +that of the Missouri, which itself, though clearer than below, still +retains its whitish hue and a portion of its sediment. Opposite to the +point of junction the current of the Missouri is gentle, and two hundred +and twenty-two yards in width, the bed principally of mud (the little +sand remaining being wholly confined to the points) and still too deep +to use the setting pole. If this be, as we suppose, the Muscleshell, our +Indian information is, that it rises in the first chain of the Rocky +mountains not far from the sources of the Yellowstone, whence in its +course to this place it waters a high broken country, well timbered +particularly on its borders, and interspersed with handsome fertile +plains and meadows. We have reason, however, to believe, from their +giving a similar account of the timber where we now are, that the +timber of which they speak is similar to that which we have seen for a +few days past, which consists of nothing more than a few straggling +small pine and dwarf cedar, on the summits of the hills, nine-tenths of +the ground being totally destitute of wood, and covered with a short +grass, aromatic herbs, and an immense quantity of prickly pears: though +the party who explored it for eight miles represented low grounds on the +river as well supplied with cottonwood of a tolerable size, and of an +excellent soil. They also reported that the country is broken and +irregular like that near our camp; that about five miles up a handsome +river about fifty yards wide, which we named after Chaboneau's wife, +Sahcajahweah, or Birdwoman's river, discharges itself into the +Muscleshell on the north or upper side. Another party found at the foot +of the southern hills, about four miles from the Missouri, a fine bold +spring, which in this country is so rare that since we left the Mandans +we have found only one of a similar kind, and that was under the bluffs +on the south side of the Missouri, at some distance from it, and about +five miles below the Yellowstone: with this exception all the small +fountains of which we have met a number are impregnated with the salts +which are so abundant here, and with which the Missouri is itself most +probably tainted, though to us who have been so much accustomed to it, +the taste is not perceptible. Among the game to-day we observed two +large owls, with remarkably long feathers resembling ears on the sides +of the head, which we presume are the hooting owls, though they are +larger and their colours are brighter than those common in the United +States. + +Tuesday 21. The morning being very fine we were able to employ the rope +and made twenty miles to our camp on the north. The shores of the river +are abrupt, bold and composed of a black and yellow clay, the bars being +formed of black mud, and a small proportion of fine sand; the current +strong. In its course the Missouri makes a sudden and extensive bend +towards the south, to receive the waters of the Muscleshell. The neck of +land thus formed, though itself high is lower than the surrounding +country, and makes a waving valley extending for a great distance to the +northward, with a fertile soil which, though without wood, produces a +fine turf of low grass, some herbs and vast quantities of prickly pear. +The country on the south is high, broken, and crowned with some pine and +dwarf cedar; the leaf of this pine is longer than that of the common +pitch or red pine of Virginia, the cone is longer and narrower, the +imbrications wider and thicker, and the whole frequently covered with +rosin. During the whole day the bends of the river are short and sudden; +and the points covered with some cottonwood, large or broad leaved +willow, and a small quantity of redwood; the undergrowth consisting of +wild roses, and the bushes of the small honeysuckle. + +The mineral appearances on the river are as usual. We do not find the +grouse or prairie hen so abundant as below, and think it probable that +they retire from the river to the plains during this season. + +The wind had been moderate during the fore part of the day, but +continued to rise towards evening, and about dark veered to northeast, +and blew a storm all night. We had encamped on a bar on the north, +opposite the lower point of an island, which from this circumstance we +called Windy island; but we were so annoyed by clouds of dust and sand +that we could neither eat nor sleep, and were forced to remove our camp +at eight o'clock to the foot of an adjoining hill, which shielded us in +some degree from the wind: we procured elk, deer, and buffaloe. + +Wednesday 22. The wind blew so violently that it was deemed prudent to +wait till it had abated, so that we did not leave the camp till ten +o'clock, when we proceeded principally by the towline. We passed Windy +island which is about three quarters of a mile in length: and five and a +half miles above it a large island in a bend to the north: three miles +beyond this we came to the entrance of a creek twenty yards wide, though +with little water, which we called Grouse creek, from observing near its +mouth a quantity of the prairie hen with pointed tails, the first we +have seen in such numbers for several days: the low grounds are somewhat +wider than usual and apparently fertile, though the short and scanty +grass on the hills does not indicate much richness of soil. The country +around is not so broken as that of yesterday, but is still waving, the +southern hills possessing more pine than usual, and some appearing on +the northern hills, which are accompanied by the usual salt and mineral +appearances. + +The river continues about two hundred and fifty yards wide, with fewer +sandbars, and the current more gentle and regular. Game is no longer in +such abundance, since leaving the Muscleshell. We have caught very few +fish on this side of the Mandans, and these were the white catfish of +two to five pounds. We killed a deer and a bear: we have not seen in +this quarter the black bear, common in the United States and on the +lower parts of the Missouri, nor have we discerned any of their tracks, +which may easily be distinguished by the shortness of its talons from +the brown, grizzly, or white bear, all of which seem to be of the same +family, which assumes those colours at different seasons of the year. We +halted earlier than usual, and encamped on the north, in a point of +woods, at the distance of sixteen and a half miles. + + + + + CHAPTER IX. + + The party continue their route--description of Judith river--Indian + mode of taking the buffaloe--Slaughter river described--phenomena + of nature--of walls on the banks of the Missouri--the party encamp + on the banks of the river to ascertain which of the streams + constitute the Missouri--captain Lewis leaves the party to explore + the northern fork, and captain Clarke explores the southern--the + surrounding country described in the route of captain Lewis--narrow + escape of one of his party. + + +Thursday 23. Last night the frost was severe, and this morning the ice +appeared along the edges of the river, and the water froze on our oars. +At the distance of a mile we passed the entrance of a creek on the +north, which we named Teapot creek; it is fifteen yards wide, and +although it has running water at a small distance from its mouth, yet it +discharges none into the Missouri, resembling, we believe, most of the +creeks in this hilly country, the waters of which are absorbed by the +thirsty soil near the river. They indeed afford but little water in any +part, and even that is so strongly tainted with salts that it is unfit +for use, though all the wild animals are very fond of it. On experiment +it was found to be moderately purgative, but painful to the intestines +in its operation. This creek seems to come from a range of low hills, +which run from east to west for seventy miles, and have their eastern +extremity thirty miles to the north of Teapot creek. Just above its +entrance is a large assemblage of the burrowing squirrels on the north +side of the river. At nine miles we reached the upper point of an island +in a bend on the south, and opposite the centre of the island, a small +dry creek on the north. Half a mile further a small creek falls in on +the same side; and six and a half miles beyond this another on the +south. At four and a half we passed a small island in a deep bend to +the north, and on the same side in a deep northeastern bend of the river +another small island. None of these creeks however possessed any water, +and at the entrances of the islands, the two first are covered with tall +cottonwood timber, and the last with willows only. The river has become +more rapid, the country much the same as yesterday, except that there is +rather more rocks on the face of the hills, and some small spruce pine +appears among the pitch. The wild roses are very abundant and now in +bloom; they differ from those of the United States only in having the +leaves and the bush itself of a somewhat smaller size. We find the +musquitoes troublesome, notwithstanding the coolness of the morning. The +buffaloe is scarce to-day, but the elk, deer, and antelope, are very +numerous. The geese begin to lose the feathers of the wings, and are +unable to fly. We saw five bears, one of which we wounded, but in +swimming from us across the river, he become entangled in some driftwood +and sank. We formed our camp on the north opposite to a hill and a point +of wood in a bend to the south, having made twenty-seven miles. + +Friday 24. The water in the kettles froze one eighth of an inch during +the night; the ice appears along the margin of the river, and the +cottonwood trees which have lost nearly all their leaves by the frost, +are putting forth other buds. We proceeded with the line principally +till about nine o'clock, when a fine breeze sprung up from the S.E. and +enabled us to sail very well, notwithstanding the rapidity of the +current. At one mile and a half is a large creek thirty yards wide, and +containing some water which it empties on the north side, over a +gravelly bed, intermixed with some stone. A man who was sent up to +explore the country returned in the evening, after having gone ten miles +directly towards the ridge of mountains to the north, which is the +source of this as well as of Teapot creek. The air of these highlands is +so pure, that objects appear much nearer than they really are, so that +although our man went ten miles without thinking himself by any means +half way to the mountains, they do not from the river appear more than +fifteen miles distant; this stream we called Northmountain creek. Two +and a half miles higher is a creek on the south which is fifteen yards +wide, but without any water, and to which we gave the name of Littledog +creek, from a village of burrowing squirrels opposite to its entrance, +that being the name given by the French watermen to those animals. Three +miles from this a small creek enters on the north, five beyond which is +an island a quarter of a mile in length, and two miles further a small +river: this falls in on the south, is forty yards wide, and discharges a +handsome stream of water; its bed rocky with gravel and sand, and the +banks high: we called it Southmountain creek, as from its direction it +seemed to rise in a range of mountains about fifty or sixty miles to the +S.W. of its entrance. The low grounds are narrow and without timber; the +country high and broken; a large portion of black rock, and brown sandy +rock appears in the face of the hills, the tops of which are covered +with scattered pine, spruce and dwarf cedar: the soil is generally poor, +sandy near the tops of the hills, and nowhere producing much grass, the +low grounds being covered with little else than the hysop, or southern +wood, and the pulpy-leafed thorn. Game is more scarce, particularly +beaver, of which we have seen but few for several days, and the +abundance or scarcity of which seems to depend on the greater or less +quantity of timber. At twenty-four and a half miles we reached a point +of woodland on the south, where we observed that the trees had no +leaves, and encamped for the night. The high country through which we +have passed for some days, and where we now are, we suppose to be a +continuation of what the French traders called the Cote Noire or Black +hills. The country thus denominated consists of high broken irregular +hills and short chains of mountains; sometimes one hundred and twenty +miles in width, sometimes narrower, but always much higher than the +country on either side. They commence about the head of the Kanzas, +where they diverge; the first ridge going westward, along the northern +shore of the Arkansaw; the second approaches the Rock mountains +obliquely in a course a little to the W. of N.W. and after passing the +Platte above its forks, and intersecting the Yellowstone near the +Bigbend, crosses the Missouri at this place, and probably swell the +country as far as the Saskashawan, though as they are represented much +smaller here than to the south, they may not reach that river. + +Saturday, 25th. Two canoes which were left behind yesterday to bring on +the game, did not join us till eight o'clock this morning, when we set +out with the towline, the use of which the banks permitted. The wind +was, however, ahead, the current strong, particularly round the points +against which it happened to set, and the gullies from the hills having +brought down quantities of stone, those projected into the river, +forming barriers for forty or fifty feet round, which it was very +difficult to pass. At the distance of two and three quarter miles we +passed a small island in a deep bend on the south, and on the same side +a creek twenty yards wide, but with no running water. About a mile +further is an island between two and three miles in length, separated +from the northern shore by a narrow channel, in which is a sand island +at the distance of half a mile from its lower extremity. To this large +island we gave the name of Teapot island; two miles above which is an +island a mile long, and situated on the south. At three and a half miles +is another small island, and one mile beyond it a second three quarters +of a mile in length, on the north side. In the middle of the river two +miles above this is an island with no timber, and of the same extent as +this last. The country on each side is high, broken, and rocky; the rock +being either a soft brown sandstone, covered with a thin stratum of +limestone, or else a hard black rugged granite, both usually in +horizontal stratas, and the sandrock overlaying the other. Salts and +quartz as well as some coal and pumicestone still appear: the bars of +the river are composed principally of gravel; the river low grounds are +narrow, and afford scarcely any timber; nor is there much pine on the +hills. The buffaloe have now become scarce: we saw a polecat this +evening, which was the first for several days: in the course of the day +we also saw several herds of the big-horned animals among the steep +cliffs on the north, and killed several of them. At the distance of +eighteen miles we encamped on the south, and the next morning, + +Sunday, 26th, proceeded on at an early hour by means of the towline, +using our oars merely in passing the river, to take advantage of the +best banks. There are now scarcely any low grounds on the river, the +hills being high and in many places pressing on both sides to the verge +of the water. The black rock has given place to a very soft sandstone, +which seems to be washed away fast by the river, and being thrown into +the river renders its navigation more difficult than it was yesterday: +above this sandstone, and towards the summits of the hills, a hard +freestone of a yellowish brown colour shows itself in several stratas of +unequal thickness, frequently overlaid or incrusted by a thin stratum of +limestone, which seems to be formed of concreted shells. At eight and a +quarter miles we came to the mouth of a creek on the north, thirty yards +wide, with some running water and a rocky bed: we called it Windsor +creek, after one of the party. Four and three quarter miles beyond this +we came to another creek in a bend to the north, which is twenty yards +wide, with a handsome little stream of water: there is however no timber +on either side of the river, except a few pines on the hills. Here we +saw for the first time since we left the Mandans several soft shelled +turtles, though this may be owing rather to the season of the year than +to any scarcity of the animal. It was here that after ascending the +highest summits of the hills on the north side of the river, that +captain Lewis first caught a distant view of the Rock mountains, the +object of all our hopes, and the reward of all our ambition. On both +sides of the river and at no great distance from it, the mountains +followed its course: above these, at the distance of fifty miles from +us, an irregular range of mountains spread themselves from west to +northwest from his position. To the north of these a few elevated +points, the most remarkable of which bore north 65° west, appeared above +the horizon, and as the sun shone on the snows of their summits he +obtained a clear and satisfactory view of those mountains which close on +the Missouri the passage to the Pacific. Four and a half miles beyond +this creek we came to the upper point of a small sand island. At the +distance of five miles between high bluffs, we passed a very difficult +rapid, reaching quite across the river, where the water is deep, the +channel narrow, and gravel obstructing it on each side: we had great +difficulty in ascending it, although we used both the rope and the pole, +and doubled the crews: this is the most considerable rapid on the +Missouri, and in fact the only place where there is a sudden descent: as +we were labouring over them, a female elk with its fawn swam down +through the waves, which ran very high, and obtained for the place the +name of the Elk Rapids. Just above them is a small low ground of +cottonwood trees, where, at twenty-two and a quarter miles we fixed our +encampment, and were joined by captain Lewis, who had been on the hills +during the afternoon. + +The country has now become desert and barren: the appearances of coal, +burnt earth, pumicestone, salts, and quartz, continue as yesterday: but +there is no timber except the thinly scattered pine and spruce on the +summits of the hills, or along the sides. The only animals we have +observed are the elk, the bighorn, and the hare, common in this country. +In the plain where we lie are two Indian cabins made of sticks, and +during the last few days we have passed several others in the points of +timber on the river. + +Monday, 27. The wind was so high that we did not start till ten o'clock, +and even then were obliged to use the line during the greater part of +the day. The river has become very rapid with a very perceptible +descent: its general width is about two hundred yards: the shoals too +are more frequent, and the rocky points at the mouth of the gullies more +troublesome to pass: great quantities of this stone lie in the river and +on its banks, and seem to have fallen down as the rain washed away the +clay and sand in which they were imbedded. The water is bordered by high +rugged bluffs, composed of irregular but horizontal stratas of yellow +and brown or black clay, brown and yellowish white sand, soft yellowish +white sandstone: hard dark brown freestone; and also large round kidney +formed irregular separate masses of a hard black ironstone, imbedded in +the clay and sand; some coal or carbonated wood also makes its +appearance in the cliffs, as do also its usual attendants the +pumicestone and burnt earth. The salts and quartz are less abundant, and +generally speaking the country is if possible more rugged and barren +than that we passed yesterday; the only growth of the hills being a few +pine, spruce, and dwarf cedar, interspersed with an occasional contrast +once in the course of some miles, of several acres of level ground, +which supply a scanty subsistence for a few little cottonwood trees. + +Soon after setting out we passed a small untimbered island on the south: +at about seven miles we reached a considerable bend which the river +makes towards the southeast, and in the evening, after making twelve and +a half miles, encamped on the south near two dead cottonwood trees, the +only timber for fuel which we could discover in the neighbourhood. + +Tuesday, 28. The weather was dark and cloudy; the air smoky, and there +fell a few drops of rain. At ten o'clock we had again a slight +sprinkling of rain, attended with distant thunder, which is the first we +have heard since leaving the Mandans. We employed the line generally, +with the addition of the pole at the ripples and rocky points, which we +find more numerous and troublesome than those we passed yesterday. The +water is very rapid round these points, and we are sometimes obliged to +steer the canoes through the points of sharp rocks rising a few inches +above the surface of the water, and so near to each other that if our +ropes give way the force of the current drives the sides of the canoe +against them, and must inevitably upset them or dash them to pieces. +These cords are very slender, being almost all made of elkskin, and much +worn and rotted by exposure to the weather: several times they gave way, +but fortunately always in places where there was room for the canoe to +turn without striking the rock; yet with all our precautions it was with +infinite risk and labour that we passed these points. An Indian pole for +building floated down the river, and was worn at one end as if dragged +along the ground in travelling; several other articles were also brought +down by the current, which indicate that the Indians are probably at no +great distance above us, and judging from a football which resembles +those used by the Minnetarees near the Mandans, we conjecture that they +must be a band of the Minnetarees of fort de Prairie. The appearance of +the river and the surrounding country continued as usual, till towards +evening, at about fifteen miles, we reached a large creek on the north +thirty-five yards wide, discharging some water, and named after one of +our men Thompson's creek. Here the country assumed a totally different +aspect; the hills retired on both sides from the river, which now +spreads to more than three times its former size, and is filled with a +number of small handsome islands covered with cottonwood. The low +grounds on the river are again wide, fertile, and enriched with trees; +those on the north are particularly wide, the hills being comparatively +low and opening into three large vallies, which extend themselves for a +considerable distance towards the north: these appearances of vegetation +are delightful after the dreary hills over which we have passed, and we +have now to congratulate ourselves at having escaped from the last +ridges of the Black mountains. On leaving Thompson's creek we passed two +small islands, and at twenty-three miles distance encamped among some +timber on the north, opposite to a small creek, which we named Bull +creek. The bighorn is in great quantities, and must bring forth their +young at a very early season, as they are now half grown. One of the +party saw a large bear also, but being at a distance from the river, and +having no timber to conceal him, he would not venture to fire. + +Wednesday, 29. Last night we were alarmed by a new sort of enemy. A +buffaloe swam over from the opposite side and to the spot where lay one +of our canoes, over which he clambered to the shore: then taking fright +he ran full speed up the bank towards our fires, and passed within +eighteen inches of the heads of some of the men, before the sentinel +could make him change his course: still more alarmed he ran down between +four fires and within a few inches of the heads of the second row of the +men, and would have broken into our lodge if the barking of the dog had +not stopped him. He suddenly turned to the right and was out of sight in +a moment, leaving us all in confusion, every one seizing his rifle and +inquiring the cause of the alarm. On learning what had happened, we had +to rejoice at suffering no more injury than the damage to some guns +which were in the canoe which the buffaloe crossed. + +In the morning early we left our camp, and proceeded as usual by the +cord. We passed an island and two sandbars, and at the distance of two +and a half miles we came to a handsome river which discharges itself on +the south, and which we ascended to the distance of a mile and a half: +we called it Judith's river: it rises in the Rock mountains in about +the same place with the Muscleshell and near the Yellowstone river. Its +entrance is one hundred yards wide from one bank to the other, the water +occupying about seventy-five yards, and in greater quantity than that of +the Muscleshell river, and though more rapid equally navigable, there +being no stones or rocks in the bed, which is composed entirely of +gravel and mud with some sand: the water too is clearer than any which +we have yet seen; and the low grounds, as far as we could discern, wider +and more woody than those of the Missouri: along its banks we observed +some box-alder intermixed with the cottonwood and the willow; the +undergrowth consisting of rosebushes, honeysuckle, and a little red +willow. There was a great abundance of the argalea or bighorned animals +in the high country through which it passes, and a great number of the +beaver in its waters: just above the entrance of it we saw the fires of +one hundred and twenty-six lodges, which appeared to have been deserted +about twelve or fifteen days, and on the other side of the Missouri a +large encampment, apparently made by the same nation. On examining some +moccasins which we found there, our Indian woman said that they did not +belong to her own nation the Snake Indians, but she thought that they +indicated a tribe on this side of the Rocky mountain, and to the north +of the Missouri; indeed it is probable that these are the Minnetarees of +fort de Prairie. At the distance of six and a half miles the hills again +approach the brink of the river, and the stones and rocks washed down +from them form a very bad rapid, with rocks and ripples more numerous +and difficult than those we passed on the 27th and 28th; here the same +scene was renewed, and we had again to struggle and labour to preserve +our small craft from being lost. Near this spot are a few trees of the +ash, the first we have seen for a great distance, and from which we +named the place Ash Rapids. On these hills there is but little timber, +but the salts, coal, and other mineral appearances continue. On the +north we passed a precipice about one hundred and twenty feet high, +under which lay scattered the fragments of at least one hundred carcases +of buffaloes, although the water which had washed away the lower part of +the hill must have carried off many of the dead. These buffaloe had been +chased down the precipice in a way very common on the Missouri, and by +which vast herds are destroyed in a moment. The mode of hunting is to +select one of the most active and fleet young men, who is disguised by a +buffaloe skin round his body; the skin of the head with the ears and +horns fastened on his own head in such a way as to deceive the buffaloe: +thus dressed, he fixes himself at a convenient distant between a herd of +buffaloe and any of the river precipices, which sometimes extend for +some miles. His companions in the meantime get in the rear and side of +the herd, and at a given signal show themselves, and advance towards the +buffaloe: they instantly take the alarm, and finding the hunters beside +them, they run towards the disguised Indian or decoy, who leads them on +at full speed toward the river, when suddenly securing himself in some +crevice of the cliff which he had previously fixed on, the herd is left +on the brink of the precipice: it is then in vain for the foremost to +retreat or even to stop; they are pressed on by the hindmost rank, who +seeing no danger but from the hunters, goad on those before them till +the whole are precipitated and the shore is strewn with their dead +bodies. Sometimes in this perilous seduction the Indian is himself +either trodden under root by the rapid movements of the buffaloe, or +missing his footing in the cliff is urged down the precipice by the +falling herd. The Indians then select as much meat as they wish, and the +rest is abandoned to the wolves, and create a most dreadful stench. The +wolves who had been feasting on these carcases were very fat, and so +gentle that one of them was killed with an esponton. Above this place we +came to for dinner at the distance of seventeen miles, opposite to a +bold running river of twenty yards wide, and falling in on the south. +From the objects we had just passed we called this stream Slaughter +river. Its low grounds are narrow, and contain scarcely any timber. Soon +after landing it began to blow and rain, and as there was no prospect of +getting wood for fuel farther on, we fixed our camp on the north, three +quarters of a mile above Slaughter river. After the labours of the day +we gave to each man a dram, and such was the effect of long abstinence +from spirituous liquors, that from the small quantity of half a gill of +rum, several of the men were considerably affected by it, and all very +much exhilirated. Our game to-day consisted of an elk and two beaver. + +Thursday, 30. The rain which commenced last evening continued with +little intermission till eleven this morning, when the high wind which +accompanied it having abated, we set out. More rain has now fallen than +we have had since the 1st of September last, and many circumstances +indicate our approach to a climate differing considerably from that of +the country through which we have been passing: the air of the open +country is astonishingly dry and pure. Observing that the case of our +sextant, though perfectly seasoned, shrank and the joints opened, we +tried several experiments, by which it appeared that a tablespoon full +of water exposed in a saucer to the air would evaporate in thirty-six +hours, when the mercury did not stand higher than the temperate point at +the greatest heat of the day. The river, notwithstanding the rain, is +much clearer than it was a few days past; but we advance with great +labour and difficulty; the rapid current, the ripples and rocky points +rendering the navigation more embarrassing than even that of yesterday, +in addition to which the banks are now so slippery after the rain, that +the men who draw the canoes can scarcely walk, and the earth and stone +constantly falling down the high bluffs make it dangerous to pass under +them; still however we are obliged to make use of the cord, as the wind +is strong ahead, the current too rapid for oars, and too deep for the +pole. In this way we passed at the distance of five and a half miles a +small rivulet in a bend on the north, two miles further an island on the +same side, half a mile beyond which came to a grove of trees at the +entrance of a run in a bend to the south, and encamped for the night on +the northern shore. The eight miles which we made to-day cost us much +trouble. The air was cold and rendered more disagreeable by the rain, +which fell in several slight showers in the course of the day; our cords +too broke several times, but fortunately without injury to the boats. On +ascending the hills near the river, one of the party found that there +was snow mixed with the rain on the heights: a little back of these the +country becomes perfectly level on both sides of the river. There is now +no timber on the hills, and only a few scattering cottonwood, ash, +box-alder, and willows, along the water. In the course of the day we +passed several encampments of Indians, the most recent of which seemed +to have been evacuated about five weeks since, and from the several +apparent dates we supposed that they were made by a band of about one +hundred lodges who were travelling slowly up the river. Although no part +of the Missouri from the Minnetarees to this place exhibit signs of +permanent settlements, yet none seem exempt from the transient visits of +hunting parties. We know that the Minnetarees of the Missouri extend +their excursions on the south side of the river, as high as the +Yellowstone; and the Assiniboins visit the northern side, most probably +as high as Porcupine river. All the lodges between that place and the +Rocky mountains we supposed to belong to the Minnetarees of fort de +Prairie, who live on the south fork of the Saskashawan. + +Friday, 31. We proceeded in two periogues, leaving the canoes to bring +on the meat of two buffaloes killed last evening. Soon after we set off +it began to rain, and though it ceased at noon, the weather continued +cloudy during the rest of the day. The obstructions of yesterday still +remain and fatigue the men excessively: the banks are so slippery in +some places and the mud so adhesive that they are unable to wear their +moccasins; one fourth of the time they are obliged to be up to their +armpits in the cold water, and sometimes walk for several yards over the +sharp fragments of rocks which have fallen from the hills: all this +added to the burden of dragging the heavy canoes is very painful, yet +the men bear it with great patience and good humour. Once the rope of +one of the periogues, the only one we had made of hemp, broke short, and +the periogue swung and just touched a point of rock which almost overset +her. At nine miles we came to a high wall of black rock rising from the +water's edge on the south, above the cliffs of the river: this continued +about a quarter of a mile, and was succeeded by a high open plain, till +three miles further a second wall two hundred feet high rose on the same +side. Three miles further a wall of the same kind about two hundred feet +high and twelve in thickness, appeared to the north: these hills and +river cliffs exhibit a most extraordinary and romantic appearance: they +rise in most places nearly perpendicular from the water, to the height +of between two and three hundred feet, and are formed of very white +sandstone, so soft as to yield readily to the impression of water, in +the upper part of which lie imbedded two or three thin horizontal +stratas of white freestone insensible to the rain, and on the top is a +dark rich loam, which forms a gradually ascending plain, from a mile to +a mile and a half in extent, when the hills again rise abruptly to the +height of about three hundred feet more. In trickling down the cliffs, +the water has worn the soft sandstone into a thousand grotesque figures, +among which with a little fancy may be discerned elegant ranges of +freestone buildings, with columns variously sculptured, and supporting +long and elegant galleries, while the parapets are adorned with +statuary: on a nearer approach they represent every form of elegant +ruins; columns, some with pedestals and capitals entire, others +mutilated and prostrate, and some rising pyramidally over each other +till they terminate in a sharp point. These are varied by niches, +alcoves, and the customary appearances of desolated magnificence: the +allusion is increased by the number of martins, who have built their +globular nests in the niches and hover over these columns; as in our +country they are accustomed to frequent large stone structures. As we +advance there seems no end to the visionary enchantment which surrounds +us. In the midst of this fantastic scenery are vast ranges of walls, +which seem the productions of art, so regular is the workmanship: they +rise perpendicularly from the river, sometimes to the height of one +hundred feet, varying in thickness from one to twelve feet, being +equally broad at the top as below. The stones of which they are formed +are black, thick, and durable, and composed of a large portion of earth, +intermixed and cemented with a small quantity of sand, and a +considerable proportion of talk or quartz. These stones are almost +invariably regular parallelipeds of unequal sizes in the wall, but +equally deep, and laid regularly in ranges over each other like bricks, +each breaking and covering the interstice of the two on which it rests: +but though the perpendicular interstice be destroyed, the horizontal one +extends entirely through the whole work: the stones too are proportioned +to the thickness of the wall in which they are employed, being largest +in the thickest walls. The thinner walls are composed of a single depth +of the paralleliped, while the thicker ones consist of two or more +depths: these walls pass the river at several places, rising from the +water's edge much above the sandstone bluffs which they seem to +penetrate; thence they cross in a straight line on either side of the +river, the plains over which they tower to the height of from ten to +seventy feet, until they lose themselves in the second range of hills: +sometimes they run parallel in several ranges near to each other, +sometimes intersect each other at right angles, and have the appearance +of walls of ancient houses or gardens. + +The face of some of these river hills, is composed of very excellent +freestone of a light yellowish brown colour, and among the cliffs we +found a species of pine which we had not yet seen, and differing from +the Virginia pitchpine in having a shorter leaf, and a longer and more +pointed cone. The coal appears only in small quantities, as do the burnt +earth and pumicestone: the mineral salts have abated. Among the animals +are a great number of the bighorn, a few buffaloe and elk, and some +mule-deer, but none of the common deer nor any antelopes. We saw but +could not procure a beautiful fox, of a colour varied with orange, +yellow, white, and black, rather smaller than the common fox of this +country, and about the same size as the red fox of the United States. + +The river to-day has been from about one hundred and fifty to two +hundred and fifty yards wide, with but little timber. At the distance of +two miles and a half from the last stone wall, is a stream on the north +side, twenty-eight yards in width, and with some running water. We +encamped just above its mouth having made eighteen miles. + +Saturday, June 1. The weather was cloudy with a few drops of rain. As we +proceeded by the aid of our cord we found the river cliffs and bluffs +not so high as yesterday, and the country more level. The timber too is +in greater abundance on the river, though there is no wood on the high +ground; coal however appears in the bluffs. The river is from two +hundred to two hundred and fifty feet wide, the current more gentle, the +water becoming still clearer and fewer rocky points and shoals than we +met yesterday, though those which we did encounter were equally +difficult to pass. Game is by no means in such plenty as below; all that +we obtained were one bighorn, and a mule-deer though we saw in the +plains a quantity of buffaloe, particularly near a small lake about +eight miles from the river to the south. Notwithstanding the wind was +ahead all day, we dragged the canoes along the distance of twenty-three +miles. At fourteen and a quarter miles, we came to a small island +opposite a bend of the river to the north: two and a half miles to the +upper point of a small island on the north; five miles to another island +on the south side and opposite to a bluff. In the next two miles we +passed an island on the south, a second beyond it on the north, and +reached near a high bluff on the north a third on which we encamped. In +the plains near the river are the chokecherry, yellow and red +currant-bushes, as well as the wild rose and prickly pear, both of which +are now in bloom. From the tops of the river hills, which are lower than +usual, we enjoyed a delightful view of the rich fertile plains on both +sides, in many places extending from the river cliffs to a great +distance back. In these plains we meet occasionally large banks of pure +sand, which were driven apparently by the southwest winds, and there +deposited. The plains are more fertile some distance from the river than +near its banks, where the surface of the earth is very generally strewed +with small pebbles, which appear to be smoothed and worn by the +agitation of the waters with which they were no doubt once covered. A +mountain or part of the North mountain approaches the river within eight +or ten miles, bearing north from our encampment of last evening; and +this morning a range of high mountains bearing S.W. from us and +apparently running to the westward, are seen at a great distance covered +with snow. In the evening we had a little more rain. + +Sunday 2. The wind blew violently last night, and a slight shower of +rain fell, but this morning was fair. We set out at an early hour, and +although the wind was ahead by means of the cord went on much better +than for the last two days, as the banks were well calculated for +towing. The current of the river is strong but regular, its timber +increases in quantity, the low grounds become more level and extensive, +and the bluffs on the river are lower than usual. In the course of the +day we had a small shower of rain, which lasted a few minutes only. As +the game is very abundant we think it necessary to begin a collection +of hides for the purpose of making a leathern boat, which we intend +constructing shortly. The hunters who were out the greater part of the +day brought in six elk, two buffaloe, two mule-deer and a bear. This +last animal had nearly cost us the lives of two of our hunters who were +together when he attacked them: one of them narrowly escaped being +caught, and the other after running a considerable distance, concealed +himself in some thick bushes, and while the bear was in quick pursuit of +his hiding place, his companion came up and fortunately shot the animal +through the head. + +At six and at half miles we reached an island on the northern side; one +mile and a quarter thence is a timbered low ground on the south: and in +the next two and three quarter miles we passed three small islands, and +came to a dark bluff on the south: within the following mile are two +small islands on the same side. At three and a quarter miles we reached +the lower part of a much larger island near a northern point, and as we +coasted along its side, within two miles passed a smaller island, and +half a mile above reached the head of another. All these islands are +small, and most of them contain some timber. Three quarters of a mile +beyond the last, and at the distance of eighteen miles from our +encampment, we came to for the night in a handsome low cottonwood plain +on the south, where we remained for the purpose of making some celestial +observations during the night, and of examining in the morning a large +river which comes in opposite to us. Accordingly at an early hour, + +Monday, 3d, we crossed and fixed our camp in the point, formed by the +junction of the river with the Missouri. It now became an interesting +question which of these two streams is what the Minnetarees call +Ahmateahza or the Missouri, which they described as approaching very +near to the Columbia. On our right decision much of the fate of the +expedition depends; since if after ascending to the Rocky mountains or +beyond them, we should find that the river we were following did not +come near the Columbia, and be obliged to return; we should not only +lose the travelling season, two months of which had already elapsed, but +probably dishearten the men so much as to induce them either to abandon +the enterprise, or yield us a cold obedience instead of the warm and +zealous support which they had hitherto afforded us. We determined, +therefore, to examine well before we decided on our future course; and +for this purpose despatched two canoes with three men up each of the +streams with orders to ascertain the width, depth, and rapidity of the +current, so as to judge of their comparative bodies of water. At the +same time parties were sent out by land to penetrate the country, and +discover from the rising grounds, if possible, the distant bearings of +the two rivers; and all were directed to return towards evening. While +they were gone we ascended together the high grounds in the fork of +these two rivers, whence we had a very extensive prospect of the +surrounding country: on every side it was spread into one vast plain +covered with verdure, in which innumerable herds of buffaloe were +roaming, attended by their enemies the wolves: some flocks of elk also +were seen, and the solitary antelopes were scattered with their young +over the face of the plain. To the south was a range of lofty mountains, +which we supposed to be a continuation of the South mountain, stretching +themselves from southeast to northwest, and terminating abruptly about +southwest from us. These were partially covered with snow; but at a +great distance behind them was a more lofty ridge completely covered +with snow, which seemed to follow the same direction as the first, +reaching from west to the north of northwest, where their snowy tops +were blended with the horizon. The direction of the rivers could not +however be long distinguished, as they were soon lost in the extent of +the plain. On our return we continued our examination; the width of the +north branch is two hundred yards, that of the south is three hundred +and seventy-two. The north, although narrower and with a gentler +current, is deeper than the south: its waters too are of the same +whitish brown colour, thickness, and turbidness: they run in the same +boiling and rolling manner which has uniformly characterized the +Missouri; and its bed is composed of some gravel, but principally mud. +The south fork is deeper, but its waters are perfectly transparent: its +current is rapid, but the surface smooth and unruffled; and its bed too +is composed of round and flat smooth stones like those of rivers issuing +from a mountainous country. The air and character of the north fork so +much resemble those of the Missouri that almost all the party believe +that to be the true course to be pursued. We however, although we have +given no decided opinion, are inclined to think otherwise, because, +although this branch does give the colour and character to the Missouri, +yet these very circumstances induce an opinion that it rises in and runs +through an open plain country, since if it came from the mountains it +would be clearer, unless, which from the position of the country is +improbable, it passed through a vast extent of low ground after leaving +them: we thought it probable that it did not even penetrate the Rocky +mountains, but drew it sources from the open country towards the lower +and middle parts of the Saskashawan, in a direction north of this place. +What embarrasses us most is, that the Indians who appeared to be well +acquainted with the geography of the country, have not mentioned this +northern river; for "the river which scolds at all others," as it is +termed, must be according to their account one of the rivers which we +have passed; and if this north fork be the Missouri, why have they not +designated the south branch which they must also have passed, in order +to reach the great falls which they mention on the Missouri. In the +evening our parties returned, after ascending the rivers in canoes for +some distance, then continuing on foot, just leaving themselves time to +return by night. The north fork was less rapid, and therefore afforded +the easiest navigation: the shallowest water of the north was five feet +deep, that of the south six feet. At two and a half miles up the north +fork is a small river coming in on the left or western side, sixty feet +wide, with a bold current three feet in depth. The party by land had +gone up the south fork in a straight line, somewhat north of west for +seven miles, where they discovered that this little river came within +one hundred yards of the south fork, and on returning down it found it a +handsome stream, with as much timber as either of the larger rivers, +consisting of the narrow and wide-leafed cottonwood, some birch and +box-alder, amid undergrowth of willows, rosebushes, and currants: they +also saw on this river a great number of elk and some beaver. + +All these accounts were however very far from deciding the important +question of our future route, and we therefore determined each of us to +ascend one of the rivers during a day and a half's march, or farther if +necessary, for our satisfaction. Our hunters killed two buffaloe, six +elk, and four deer to-day. Along the plains near the junction, are to be +found the prickly pear in great quantities; the chokecherry is also very +abundant in the river low grounds, as well as the ravines along the +river bluffs; the yellow and red currants are not yet ripe; the +gooseberry is beginning to ripen, and the wildrose which now covers all +the low grounds near the rivers is in full bloom. The fatigues of the +last few days have occasioned some falling off in the appearance of the +men, who not having been able to wear moccasins, had their feet much +bruised and mangled in passing over the stones and rough ground. They +are however perfectly cheerful, and have an undiminished ardour for the +expedition. + +Tuesday, June 4. At the same hour this morning captain Lewis and captain +Clarke set out to explore the two rivers: captain Lewis with six men +crossed the north fork near the camp, below a small island from which +he took a course N. 30° W. for four and a half miles to a commanding +eminence. Here we observed that the North mountain, changing its +direction parallel to the Missouri, turned towards the north and +terminated abruptly at the distance of about thirty miles, the point of +termination bearing N. 48° E. The South mountain too diverges to the +south, and terminates abruptly, its extremity bearing S. 8° W. distant +about twenty miles: to the right of, and retreating from this extremity, +is a separate mountain at the distance of thirty-five miles in a +direction S. 38° W. which from its resemblance to the roof of a barn, we +called the Barn mountain. The north fork, which is now on the left, +makes a considerable bend to the northwest, and on its western border a +range of hills about ten miles long, and bearing from this spot N. 60° +W. runs parallel with it: north of this range of hills is an elevated +point of the river bluff on its south side, bearing N. 72° W. about +twelve miles from us; towards this he directed his course across a high, +level, dry open plain; which in fact embraces the whole country to the +foot of the mountains. The soil is dark, rich, and fertile, yet the +grass by no means so luxuriant as might have been expected, for it is +short and scarcely more than sufficient to cover the ground. There are +vast quantities of prickly pears, and myriads of grasshoppers, which +afford food for a species of curlew which is in great numbers in the +plain. He then proceeded up the river to the point of observation they +had fixed on; from which he went two miles N. 15° W. to a bluff point on +the north side of the river: thence his course was N. 30° W. for two +miles to the entrance of a large creek on the south. The part of the +river along which he passed is from forty to sixty yards wide, the +current strong, the water deep and turbid, the banks falling in, the +salts, coal and mineral appearances are as usual, and in every respect, +except as to size, this river resembles the Missouri. The low grounds +are narrow but well supplied with wood: the bluffs are principally of +dark brown yellow, and some white clay with freestone in some places. +From this point the river bore N. 20° E. to a bluff on the south, at the +distance of twelve miles: towards this he directed his course, ascending +the hills which are about two hundred feet high, and passing through +plains for three miles, till he found the dry ravines so steep and +numerous that he resolved to return to the river and follow its banks. +He reached it about four miles from the beginning of his course, and +encamped on the north in a bend among some bushes which sheltered the +party from the wind: the air was very cold, the northwest wind high, and +the rain wet them to the skin. Besides the game just mentioned, he +observed buffaloe, elk, wolves, foxes, and we got a blaireau and a +weasel, and wounded a large brown bear, whom it was too late to pursue. +Along the river are immense quantities of roses which are now in full +bloom, and which make the low grounds a perfect garden. + +Wednesday 5. The rain fell during the greater part of the last night, +and in the morning the weather was cloudy and cold, with a high +northwest wind: at sunrise he proceeded up the river eight miles to the +bluff on the left side, towards which he had been directing his course +yesterday. Here he found the bed of a creek twenty-five yards wide at +the entrance, with some timber, but no water, notwithstanding the rain: +it is, indeed, astonishing to observe the vast quantities of water +absorbed by the soil of the plains, which being opened in large crevices +presents a fine rich loam: at the mouth of this stream (which he called +Lark creek) the bluffs are very steep and approach the river so that he +ascended them, and crossing the plains reached the river, which from the +last point bore N. 50° W: four miles from this place it extended north +two miles. Here he discovered a lofty mountain standing alone at the +distance of more than eighty miles in the direction of N. 30° W. and +which from its conical figure he called Tower mountain. He then +proceeded on these two hills and afterwards in different courses six +miles, when he again changed for a western course across a deep bend +along the south side: in making this passage over the plains he found +them like those of yesterday, level and beautiful, with great quantities +of buffaloes, and some wolves, foxes, and antelopes, and intersected +near the river by deep ravines. Here at the distance of from one to nine +miles from the river, he met the largest village of barking squirrels +which we had yet seen: for he passed a skirt of their territory for +seven miles. He also saw near the hills a flock of the mountain cock or +a large species of heath hen with a long pointed tail, which the Indians +below had informed us were common among the Rock mountains. Having +finished his course of ten miles west across a bend, he continued two +miles N. 80° W. and from that point discovered some lofty mountains to +the northwest of Tower mountain and bearing N. 65° W. at eighty or one +hundred miles distance: Here he encamped on the north side in a handsome +low ground, on which were several old stick lodges: there had been but +little timber on the river in the forepart of the day, but now there is +a greater quantity than usual. The river itself is about eighty yards +wide, from six to ten feet deep, and has a strong steady current. The +party had killed five elk, and a mule-deer; and by way of experiment +roasted the burrowing squirrels, which they found to be well flavoured +and tender. + +Thursday 6. Captain Lewis was now convinced that this river pursued a +direction too far north for our route to the Pacific, and therefore +resolved to return; but waited till noon to take a meridian altitude. +The clouds, however, which had gathered during the latter part of the +night continued and prevented the observation: part of the men were sent +forward to a commanding eminence, six miles S. 70° W; from which they +saw at the distance of about fifteen miles S. 80° W. a point of the +south bluff of the river, which thence bore northwardly. In their +absence two rafts had been prepared, and when they returned about noon, +the party embarked: but they soon found that the rafts were so small and +slender that the baggage was wet, and therefore it was necessary to +abandon them, and go by land. They therefore crossed the plains, and at +the distance of twelve miles came to the river, through a cold storm +from the northeast, accompanied by showers of rain. The abruptness of +the cliffs compelled them, after going a few miles, to leave the river +and meet the storm in the plains. Here they directed their course too +far northward, in consequence of which they did not meet the river till +late at night, after having travelled twenty-three miles since noon, and +halted at a little below the entrance of Lark creek. They had the good +fortune to kill two buffaloe which supplied them with supper, but spent +a very uncomfortable night without any shelter from the rain, which +continued till morning, + +Friday 7, when at an early hour they continued down the river. The route +was extremely unpleasant, as the wind was high from the N.E. accompanied +with rain, which made the ground so slippery that they were unable to +walk over the bluffs which they had passed on ascending the river. The +land is the most thirsty we have ever seen; notwithstanding all the rain +which has fallen, the earth is not wet for more than two inches deep, +and resembles thawed ground; but if it requires more water to saturate +it than the common soils, on the other hand it yields its moisture with +equal difficulty. In passing along the side of one of these bluffs at a +narrow pass thirty yards in length, captain Lewis slipped, and but for a +fortunate recovery, by means of his espontoon, would then have been +precipitated into the river over a precipice of about ninety feet. He +had just reached a spot where by the assistance of his espontoon he +could stand with tolerable safety, when he heard a voice behind him cry +out, good God captain what shall I do? he turned instantly and found it +was Windsor who had lost his foothold about the middle of the narrow +pass, and had slipped down to the very verge of the precipice where he +lay on his belly, with his right arm and leg over the precipice, while +with the other leg and arm he was with difficulty holding on to keep +himself from being dashed to pieces below. His dreadful situation was +instantly perceived by captain Lewis, who stifling his alarm, calmly +told him that he was in no danger; that he should take his knife out of +his belt with the right hand, and dig a hole in the side of the bluff to +receive his right foot. With great presence of mind he did this, and +then raised himself on his knees; captain Lewis then told him to take +off his moccasins and come forward on his hands and knees, holding the +knife in one hand and his rifle in the other. He immediately crawled in +this way till he came to a secure spot. The men who had not attempted +this passage, were ordered to return and wade the river at the foot of +the bluff, where they found the water breast high. This adventure taught +them the danger of crossing the slippery heights of the river; but as +the plains were intersected by deep ravines almost as difficult to pass, +they continued down the river, sometimes in the mud of the low grounds, +sometimes up to their arms in the water, and when it became too deep to +wade, they cut footholds with their knives in the sides of the banks. In +this way they travelled through the rain, mud, and water, and having +made only eighteen miles during the whole day, encamped in an old Indian +lodge of sticks, which afforded them a dry shelter. Here they cooked +part of six deer they had killed in the course of their walk, and having +eaten the only morsel they had tasted during the whole day slept +comfortably on some willow boughs. + + + + + CHAPTER X. + + Return of captain Lewis--Account of captain Clarke's researches + with his exploring party--Perilous situation of one of his + party--Tansy river described--The party still believing the + southern fork the Missouri, captain Lewis resolves to ascend + it--Mode of making a place to deposit provisions, called + cache--Captain Lewis explores the southern fork--Falls of the + Missouri discovered, which ascertains the question--Romantic + scenery of the surrounding country--Narrow escape of captain + Lewis--The main body under captain Clarke approach within five + miles of the falls, and prepare for making a portage over the + rapids. + + +Saturday 8. It continued to rain moderately all last night, and the +morning was cloudy till about ten o'clock, when it cleared off, and +became a fine day. They breakfasted about sunrise and then proceeded +down the river in the same way as they had done yesterday, except that +the travelling was somewhat better, as they had not so often to wade, +though they passed some very dangerous bluffs. The only timber to be +found is in the low grounds which are occasionally on the river, and +these are the haunts of innumerable birds, who, when the sun began to +shine, sang very delightfully. Among these birds they distinguished the +brown thrush, robin, turtledove, linnet, goldfinch, the large and small +blackbird, the wren, and some others. As they came along, the whole of +the party were of opinion that this river was the true Missouri, but +captain Lewis being fully persuaded that it was neither the main stream, +nor that which it would be advisable to ascend, gave it the name of +Maria's river. After travelling all day they reached the camp at five +o'clock in the afternoon, and found captain Clarke and the party very +anxious for their safety, as they had staid two days longer than had +been expected, and as captain Clarke had returned at the appointed time, +it was feared that they had met with some accident. + +Captain Clarke on setting out with five men on the 4th, went seven +miles on a course S. 25° W. to a spring; thence he went S. 20° W. for +eight miles to the river where was an island, from which he proceeded in +a course N. 45° W. and approached the river at the distance of three, +five, and thirteen miles, at which place they encamped in an old Indian +lodge made of sticks and bark. In crossing the plains they observed +several herds of buffaloe, some muledeer, antelopes and wolves. The +river is rapid and closely hemmed in by high bluffs, crowded with bars +of gravel, with little timber on the low grounds, and none on the +highlands. Near the camp this evening, a white bear attacked one of the +men, whose gun happening to be wet, would not go off; he instantly made +towards a tree, but was so closely pursued, that as he ascended the tree +he struck the bear with his foot. The bear not being able to climb, +waited till he should be forced to come down; and as the rest of the +party were separated from him by a perpendicular cliff of rocks, which +they could not descend, it was not in their power to give him any +assistance: fortunately however at last the bear became frighted at +their cries and firing, and released the man. In the afternoon it +rained, and during the night there fell both rain and snow, and in the +morning. + +June 5, the hills to the S.E. were covered with snow, and the rain +continued. They proceeded on in a course N. 20° W. near the river +several miles, till at the distance of eleven miles they reached a +ridge, from the top of which on the north side they could plainly +discern a mountain to the S. and W. at a great distance covered with +snow; a high ridge projecting from the mountains to the southeast +approaches the river on the southeast side, forming some cliffs of dark +hard stone. They also saw that the river ran for a great distance west +of south, with a rapid current, from which as well as its continuing of +the same width and depth, captain Clarke thought it useless to advance +any further, and therefore returned across the level plain in a +direction north 30° east, and reached at the distance of twenty miles +the little river which is already mentioned as falling into the north +fork, and to which they gave the name of Tansy river, from the great +quantity of that herb growing on its banks. Here they dined, and then +proceeded on a few miles by a place where the Tansy breaks through a +high ridge on its north side and encamped. + +The next day, 6th, the weather was cold, raw and cloudy, with a high +northeast wind. They set out early, down the Tansy, whose low grounds +resemble precisely, except as to extent, those of the Missouri before it +branches, containing a great proportion of a species of cottonwood, with +a leaf like that of the wild cherry. After halting at twelve o'clock for +dinner, they ascended the plain, and at five o'clock reached the camp +through the rain, which had fallen without intermission since noon. +During his absence the party had been occupied in dressing skins, and +being able to rest themselves were nearly freed from their lameness and +swollen feet. All this night and the whole of the following day, 7th, it +rained, the wind being from the southwest off the mountains: yet the +rivers are falling, and the thermometer 40° above 0. The rain continued +till the next day, 8th, at ten o'clock, when it cleared off, and the +weather became fine, the wind high from the southwest. The rivers at the +point have now fallen six inches since our arrival, and this morning the +water of the south fork became of a reddish brown colour, while the +north branch continued of its usual whitish appearance. The mountains to +the south are covered with snow. + +Sunday, 9th. We now consulted upon the course to be pursued. On +comparing our observations, we were more than ever convinced of what we +already suspected, that Mr. Arrowsmith is incorrect in laying down in +the chain of Rocky mountains one remarkable mountain called the Tooth, +nearly as far south as 45°, and said to be so marked from the +discoveries of Mr. Fidler. We are now within one hundred miles of the +Rocky* mountains and in the latitude of 47° 24' 12" 8, and therefore it +is highly improbable that the Missouri should make such a bend to the +south before it reaches the Rocky mountains, as to have suffered Mr. +Fidler to come as low as 45° along the eastern borders without touching +that river: yet the general course of Maria's river from this place for +fifty-nine miles, as far as captain Lewis ascended, was north 69° west, +and the south branch, or what we consider the Missouri, which captain +Clarke had examined as far as forty-five miles in a straight line, ran +in a course south 29° west, and as far as it could be seen went +considerably west of south, whence we conclude that the Missouri itself +enters the Rocky mountains to the north of 45°. In writing to the +president from our winter quarters, we had already taken the liberty of +advancing the southern extremity of Mr. Fidler's discoveries about a +degree to the northward, and this from Indian information as to the +bearing of the point at which the Missouri enters the mountain; but we +think actual observation will place it one degree still further to the +northward. This information of Mr. Fidler however, incorrect as it is, +affords an additional reason for not pursuing Maria's river; for if he +came as low even as 47° and saw only small streams coming down from the +mountains, it is to be presumed that these rivulets do not penetrate the +Rocky mountains so far as to approach any navigable branch of the +Columbia, and they are most probably the remote waters of some northern +branch of the Missouri. In short, being already in latitude 47° 24' we +cannot reasonably hope by going farther to the northward to find between +this place and the Saskashawan any stream which can, as the Indians +assure us the Missouri does, possess a navigable current for some +distance in the Rocky mountains: the Indians had assured us also that +the water of the Missouri was nearly transparent at the falls; this is +the case with the southern branch; that the falls lay a little to the +south of sunset from them; this too is in favour of the southern fork, +for it bears considerably south of this place which is only a few +minutes to the northward of fort Mandan; that the falls are below the +Rocky mountains and near the northern termination of one range of those +mountains: now there is a ridge of mountains which appear behind the +South mountains and terminates to the southwest of us, at a sufficient +distance from the unbroken chain of the Rocky mountains to allow space +for several falls, indeed we fear for too many of them. If too the +Indians had ever passed any stream as large as this southern fork on +their way up the Missouri, they would have mentioned it; so that their +silence seems to prove that this branch must be the Missouri. The body +of water also which it discharges must have been acquired from a +considerable distance in the mountains, for it could not have been +collected in the parched plains between the Yellowstone and the Rocky +mountains, since that country could not supply nourishment for the dry +channels which we passed on the south, and the travels of Mr. Fidler +forbid us to believe that it could have been obtained from the mountains +towards the northwest. + +These observations which satisfied our mind completely we communicated +to the party: but every one of them were of a contrary opinion; and much +of their belief depended on Crusatte, an experienced waterman on the +Missouri, who gave it as his decided judgment that the north fork was +the genuine Missouri. The men therefore mentioned that although they +would most cheerfully follow us wherever we should direct, yet they were +afraid that the south fork would soon terminate in the Rocky mountains +and leave us at a great distance from the Columbia. In order that +nothing might be omitted which could prevent our falling into an error, +it was agreed that one of us should ascend the southern branch by land +until we reached either the falls or the mountains. In the meantime in +order to lighten our burdens as much as possible, we determined to +deposit here one of the periogues and all the heavy baggage which we +could possibly spare, as well as some provision, salt, powder, and +tools: this would at once lighten the other boats, and give them the +crew which had been employed on board the periogue. + +Monday, 10. The weather being fair and pleasant we dried all our baggage +and merchandize and made our deposit. These holes or _caches_ as they +are called by the Missouri traders are very common, particularly among +those who deal with the Sioux, as the skins and merchandize will keep +perfectly sound for years, and are protected from robbery: our cache is +built in this manner: In the high plain on the north side of the +Missouri and forty yards from a steep bluff, we chose a dry situation, +and then describing a small circle of about twenty inches diameter, +removed the sod as gently and carefully as possible: the hole is then +sunk perpendicularly for a foot deep, or more if the ground be not firm. +It is now worked gradually wider as they descend, till at length it +becomes six or seven feet deep, shaped nearly like a kettle or the lower +part of a large still with the bottom somewhat sunk at the centre. As +the earth is dug it is handed up in a vessel and carefully laid on a +skin or cloth, in which it is carried away and usually thrown into the +river or concealed so as to leave no trace of it. A floor of three or +four inches in thickness is then made of dry sticks, on which is thrown +hay or a hide perfectly dry. The goods being well aired and dried are +laid on this floor, and prevented from touching the wall by other dried +sticks in proportion as the merchandize is stowed away: when the hole is +nearly full, a skin is laid over the goods, and on this earth is thrown +and beaten down until with the addition of the sod first removed the +whole is on a level with the ground, and there remains not the slightest +appearance of an excavation. In addition to this we made another of +smaller dimensions, in which we placed all the baggage, some powder, +and our blacksmith's tools, having previously repaired such of the tools +we carry with us as require mending. To guard against accident, we hid +two parcels of lead and powder in the two distinct places. The red +periogue was drawn up on the middle of a small island at the entrance of +Maria's river, and secured by being fastened to the trees from the +effect of any floods. In the evening there was a high wind from the +southwest accompanied with thunder and rain. We now made another +observation of the meridian altitude of the sun, and found that the mean +latitude of the entrance of Maria's river, as deduced from three +observations, is 47° 25' 17" 2 north. We saw a small bird like the blue +thrush or catbird which we had not before met, and also observed that +the beemartin or kingbird is common to this country although there are +no bees here, and in fact we have not met with the honey-bee since +leaving the Osage river. + +Tuesday 11. This morning captain Lewis with four men set out on their +expedition up the south branch. They soon reached the point where the +Tansy river approaches the Missouri, and observing a large herd of elk +before them, descended and killed several which they hung up along the +river so that the party in the boats might see them as they came along. +They then halted for dinner; but captain Lewis who had been for some +days afflicted with the dysentery, was now attacked with violent pains +attended by a high fever and was unable to go on. He therefore encamped +for the night under some willow boughs: having brought no medicine he +determined to try an experiment with the small twigs of the chokecherry, +which being stripped of their leaves and cut into pieces about two +inches long were boiled in pure water, till they produced a strong black +decoction of an astringent bitter taste; a pint of this he took at +sunset, and repeated the dose an hour afterwards. By ten o'clock he was +perfectly relieved from pain, a gentle perspiration ensued, his fever +abated and in the morning he was quite recovered. One of the men caught +several dozen fish of two species: the first is about nine inches long, +of a white colour, round in shape; the mouth is beset both above and +below with a rim of fine sharp teeth, the eye moderately large, the +pupil dark, and the iris narrow, and of a yellowish brown colour: in +form and size it resembles the white chub of the Potomac, though its +head is proportionably smaller; they readily bite at meat or +grasshoppers; but the flesh though soft and of a fine white colour is +not highly flavoured. The second species is precisely of the form and +about the size of the fish known by the name of the hickory shad or old +wife, though it differs from it in having the outer edge of both the +upper and lower jaw set with a rim of teeth, and the tongue and palate +also are defended by long sharp teeth bending inwards, the eye is very +large, the iris wide and of a silvery colour; they do not inhabit muddy +water, and the flavour is much superior to that of the former species. +Of the first kind we had seen a few before we reached Maria's river; but +had found none of the last before we caught them in the Missouri above +its junction with that river. The white cat continues as high as Maria's +river, but they are scarce in this part of the river, nor have we caught +any of them since leaving the Mandans which weighed more than six +pounds. + +Of other game they saw a great abundance even in their short march of +nine miles. + +Wednesday 12. This morning captain Lewis left the bank of the river in +order to avoid the steep ravines which generally run from the shore to +the distance of one or two miles in the plain: having reached the opened +country he went for twelve miles in a course a little to the west of +southwest, when the sun becoming warm by nine o'clock, he returned to +the river in quest of water and to kill something for breakfast, there +being no water in the plain, and the buffaloe discovering them before +they came within gunshot took to flight. They reached the banks in a +handsome open low ground with cottonwood, after three miles walk. Here +they saw two large brown bears, and killed them both at the first fire, +a circumstance which has never before occurred since we have seen that +animal. Having made a meal of a part and hung the remainder on a tree +with a note for captain Clarke, they again ascended the bluffs into the +open plains. Here they saw great numbers of the burrowing squirrel, also +some wolves, antelopes, muledeer, and vast herds of buffaloe. They soon +crossed a ridge considerably higher than the surrounding plains, and +from its top had a beautiful view of the Rocky mountains, which are now +completely covered with snow: their general course is from southeast to +the north of northwest, and they seem to consist of several ranges which +successively rise above each other till the most distant mingles with +the clouds. After travelling twelve miles they again met the river, +where there was a handsome plain of cottonwood; and although it was not +sunset, and they had only come twenty-seven miles, yet captain Lewis +felt weak from his late disorder, and therefore determined to go no +further that night. In the course of the day they killed a quantity of +game, and saw some signs of otter as well as beaver, and many tracks of +the brown bear: they also caught great quantities of the white fish +mentioned yesterday. With the broad-leafed cottonwood, which has formed +the principal timber of the Missouri, is here mixed another species +differing from the first only in the narrowness of its leaf and the +greater thickness of its bark. The leaf is long, oval, acutely pointed, +about two and a half or three inches long and from three quarters of an +inch to an inch in width; it is smooth and thick sometimes slightly +grooved or channeled with the margin a little serrate, the upper disk of +a common, the lower of a whitish green. This species seems to be +preferred by the beaver to the broad-leaved, probably because the former +affords a deeper and softer bark. + +Thursday 13. They left their encampment at sunrise, and ascending the +river hills went for six miles in a course generally southwest, over a +country which though more waving than that of yesterday may still be +considered level. At the extremity of this course they overlooked a most +beautiful plain, where were infinitely more buffaloe than we had ever +before seen at a single view. To the southwest arose from the plain two +mountains of a singular appearance and more like ramparts of high +fortifications than works of nature. They are square figures with sides +rising perpendicularly to the height of two hundred and fifty feet, +formed of yellow clay, and the tops seemed to be level plains. Finding +that the river here bore considerably to the south, and fearful of +passing the falls before reaching the Rocky mountains, they now changed +their course to the south, and leaving those insulated hills to the +right proceeded across the plain. In this direction captain Lewis had +gone about two miles when his ears were saluted with the agreeable sound +of a fall of water, and as he advanced a spray which seemed driven by +the high southwest wind arose above the plain like a column of smoke and +vanished in an instant. Towards this point he directed his steps, and +the noise increasing as he approached soon became too tremendous to be +mistaken for any thing but the great falls of the Missouri. Having +travelled seven miles after first hearing the sound he reached the falls +about twelve o'clock, the hills as he approached were difficult of +access and two hundred feet high: down these he hurried with impatience +and seating himself on some rocks under the centre of the falls, enjoyed +the sublime spectacle of this stupendous object which has since the +creation had been lavishing its magnificence upon the desert, unknown to +civilization. + + [Illustration: The Falls and Portage] + +The river immediately at its cascade is three hundred yards wide, and is +pressed in by a perpendicular cliff on the left, which rises to about +one hundred feet and extends up the stream for a mile; on the right the +bluff is also perpendicular for three hundred yards above the falls. +For ninety or a hundred yards from the left cliff, the water falls in +one smooth even sheet, over a precipice of at least eighty feet. The +remaining part of the river precipitates itself with a more rapid +current, but being received as it falls by the irregular and somewhat +projecting rocks below, forms a splendid prospect of perfectly white +foam two hundred yards in length, and eighty in perpendicular elevation. +This spray is dissipated into a thousand shapes, sometimes flying up in +columns of fifteen or twenty feet, which are then oppressed by larger +masses of the white foam, on all which the sun impresses the brightest +colours of the rainbow. As it rises from the fall it beats with fury +against a ledge of rocks which extend across the river at one hundred +and fifty yards from the precipice. From the perpendicular cliff on the +north, to the distance of one hundred and twenty yards, the rocks rise +only a few feet above the water, and when the river is high the stream +finds a channel across them forty yards wide, and near the higher parts +of the ledge which then rise about twenty feet, and terminate abruptly +within eighty or ninety yards of the southern side. Between them and the +perpendicular cliff on the south, the whole body of water runs with +great swiftness. A few small cedars grow near this ridge of rocks which +serves as a barrier to defend a small plain of about three acres shaded +with cottonwood, at the lower extremity of which is a grove of the same +tree, where are several Indian cabins of sticks; below the point of them +the river is divided by a large rock, several feet above the surface of +the water, and extending down the stream for twenty yards. At the +distance of three hundred yards from the same ridge is a second abutment +of solid perpendicular rock about sixty feet high, projecting at right +angles from the small plain on the north for one hundred and thirty-four +yards into the river. After leaving this, the Missouri again spreads +itself to its usual distance of three hundred yards, though with more +than its ordinary rapidity. + +The hunters who had been sent out now returned loaded with buffaloe +meat, and captain Lewis encamped for the night under a tree near the +falls. The men were again despatched to hunt for food against the +arrival of the party, and captain Lewis walked down the river to +discover if possible some place where the canoes might be safely drawn +on shore, in order to be transported beyond the falls. He returned +however without discovering any such spot, the river for three miles +below being one continued succession of rapids and cascades, overhung +with perpendicular bluffs from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet +high; in short, it seems to have worn itself a channel through the solid +rock. In the afternoon they caught in the falls some of both kinds of +the white fish, and half a dozen trout from sixteen to twenty-three +inches long, precisely resembling in form and the position of its fins +the mountain or speckled trout of the United States, except that the +specks of the former are of a deep black, while those of the latter are +of a red or gold colour: they have long sharp teeth on the palate and +tongue, and generally a small speck of red on each side behind the front +ventral fins; the flesh is of a pale yellowish red, or when in good +order of a rose-coloured red. + +Friday 14. This morning one of the men was sent to captain Clarke with +an account of the discovery of the falls, and after employing the rest +in preserving the meat which had been killed yesterday, captain Lewis +proceeded to examine the rapids above. From the falls he directed his +course southwest up the river: after passing one continued rapid, and +three small cascades, each three or four feet high, he reached at the +distance of five miles a second fall. The river is about four hundred +yards wide, and for the distance of three hundred throws itself over to +the depth of nineteen feet, and so irregularly that he gave it the name +of the Crooked falls. From the southern shore it extends obliquely +upwards about one hundred and fifty yards, and then forms an acute angle +downwards nearly to the commencement of four small islands close to the +northern side. From the perpendicular pitch to these islands, a distance +of more than one hundred yards, the water glides down a sloping rock +with a velocity almost equal to that of its fall. Above this fall the +river bends suddenly to the northward: while viewing this place captain +Lewis heard a loud roar above him, and crossing the point of a hill for +a few hundred yards, he saw one of the most beautiful objects in nature: +the whole Missouri is suddenly stopped by one shelving rock, which +without a single niche and with an edge as straight and regular as if +formed by art, stretches itself from one side of the river to the other +for at least a quarter of a mile. Over this it precipitates itself in an +even uninterrupted sheet to the perpendicular depth of fifty feet, +whence dashing against the rocky bottom it rushes rapidly down, leaving +behind it a spray of the purest foam across the river. The scene which +it presented was indeed singularly beautiful, since without any of the +wild irregular sublimity of the lower falls, it combined all the regular +elegances which the fancy of a painter would select to form a beautiful +waterfall. The eye had scarcely been regaled with this charming +prospect, when at the distance of half a mile captain Lewis observed +another of a similar kind: to this he immediately hastened, and found a +cascade stretching across the whole river for a quarter of a mile with a +descent of fourteen feet, though the perpendicular pitch was only six +feet. This too in any other neighborhood would have been an object of +great magnificence, but after what he had just seen it became of +secondary interest; his curiosity being however awakened, he determined +to go on even should night overtake him to the head of the falls. He +therefore pursued the southwest course of the river, which was one +constant succession of rapids and small cascades, at every one of which +the bluffs grew lower, or the bed of the river became more on a level +with the plains. At the distance of two and a half miles he arrived at +another cataract of twenty-six feet. The river is here six hundred +yards wide, but the descent is not immediately perpendicular, though the +river falls generally with a regular and smooth sheet; for about one +third of the descent a rock protrudes to a small distance, receives the +water in its passage and gives it a curve. On the south side is a +beautiful plain a few feet above the level of the falls; on the north +the country is more broken, and there is a hill not far from the river. +Just below the falls is a little island in the middle of the river well +covered with timber. Here on a cottonwood tree an eagle had fixed its +nest, and seemed the undisputed mistress of a spot, to contest whose +dominion neither man nor beast would venture across the gulfs that +surround it, and which is further secured by the mist rising from the +falls. This solitary bird could not escape the observation of the +Indians who made the eagle's nest a part of their description of the +falls, which now proves to be correct in almost every particular, except +that they did not do justice to their height. Just above this is a +cascade of about five feet, beyond which, as far as could be discerned, +the velocity of the water seemed to abate. Captain Lewis now ascended +the hill which was behind him, and saw from its top a delightful plain +extending from the river to the base of the Snow mountains to the south +and southwest. Along this wide level country the Missouri pursued its +winding course, filled with water to its even and grassy banks, while +about four miles above it was joined by a large river flowing from the +northwest through a valley three miles in width, and distinguished by +the timber which adorned its shores; the Missouri itself stretches to +the south in one unruffled stream of water as if unconscious of the +roughness it must soon encounter, and bearing on its bosom vast flocks +of geese, while numerous herds of buffaloe are feeding on the plains +which surround it. + +Captain Lewis then descended the hill, and directed his course towards +the river falling in from the west. He soon met a herd of at least a +thousand buffaloe, and being desirous of providing for supper shot one +of them; the animal began to bleed, and captain Lewis who had forgotten +to reload his rifle, was intently watching to see him fall, when he +beheld a large brown bear who was stealing on him unperceived, and was +already within twenty steps. In the first moment of surprise he lifted +his rifle, but remembering instantly that it was not charged, and that +he had not time to reload, he felt that there was no safety but in +flight. It was in the open level plain, not a bush nor a tree within +three hundred yards, the bank of the river sloping and not more than +three feet high, so that there was no possible mode of concealment: +captain Lewis therefore thought of retreating in a quick walk as fast as +the bear advanced towards the nearest tree; but as soon as he turned the +bear ran open mouth and at full speed upon him. Captain Lewis ran about +eighty yards, but finding that the animal gained on him fast, it flashed +on his mind that by getting into the water to such a depth that the bear +would be obliged to attack him swimming, there was still some chance of +his life, he therefore turned short, plunged into the river about waist +deep, and facing about presented the point of his espontoon. The bear +arrived at the water's edge within twenty feet of him, but as soon as he +put himself in this position of defence, he seemed frightened, and +wheeling about, retreated with as much precipitation as he had pursued. +Very glad to be released from this danger, captain Lewis returned to the +shore, and observed him run with great speed, sometimes looking back as +if he expected to be pursued, till he reached the woods. He could not +conceive the cause of the sudden alarm of the bear, but congratulated +himself on his escape when he saw his own track torn to pieces by the +furious animal, and learnt from the whole adventure never to suffer his +rifle to be a moment unloaded. He now resumed his progress in the +direction which the bear had taken towards the western river, and found +it a handsome stream about two hundred yards wide, apparently deep, +with a gentle current; its waters clear, and its banks, which were +formed principally of dark brown and blue clay, are about the same +height as those of the Missouri, that is from three to five feet. What +was singular was that the river does not seem to overflow its banks at +any season, while it might be presumed from its vicinity to the +mountains, that the torrents arising from the melting of the snows, +would sometimes cause it to swell beyond its limits. The contrary fact +would induce a belief that the Rocky mountains yield their snows very +reluctantly and equably to the sun, and are not often drenched by very +heavy rains. This river is no doubt that which the Indians call Medicine +river, which they mentioned as emptying into the Missouri, just above +the falls. After examining Medicine river, captain Lewis set out at half +after six o'clock in the evening on his return towards the camp, which +he estimated at the distance of twelve miles. In going through the low +grounds on Medicine river he met an animal which at a distance he +thought was a wolf, but on coming within sixty paces, it proved to be +some brownish yellow animal standing near its burrow, which, when he +came nigh, crouched and seemed as if about to spring on him. Captain +Lewis fired and the beast disappeared in its burrow. From the track and +the general appearance of the animal he supposed it to be of the tiger +kind. He then went on, but as if the beasts of the forests had conspired +against him, three buffaloe bulls which were feeding with a large herd +at the distance of half a mile, left their companions and ran at full +speed towards him. He turned round, and unwilling to give up the field +advanced towards them: when they came within a hundred yards, they +stopped, looked at him for some time, and then retreated as they came. +He now pursued his route in the dark, reflecting on the strange +adventures and sights of the day which crowded on his mind so rapidly +that he should have been inclined to believe it all enchantment if the +thorns of the prickly pear piercing his feet did not dispel at every +moment the illusion. He at last reached the party, who had been very +anxious for his safety, and who had already decided on the route which +each should take in the morning to look for him. Being much fatigued he +supped and slept well during the night. + +Saturday, 15. The men were again sent out to bring in the game killed +yesterday and to procure more: they also obtained a number of fine trout +and several small catfish weighing about four pounds, and differing from +the white catfish lower down the Missouri. On awaking this morning +captain Lewis found a large rattlesnake coiled on the trunk of a tree +under which he had been sleeping. He killed it, and found it like those +we had seen before, differing from those of the Atlantic states, not in +its colours but in the form and arrangement of them; it had one hundred +and seventy-six scuta on the abdomen, and seventeen half-formed scuta on +the tail. There is a heavy dew on the grass about the camp every +morning, which no doubt proceeds from the mist of the falls, as it takes +place no where in the plains nor on the river except here. The messenger +sent to captain Clarke returned with information of his having arrived +five miles below at a rapid, which he did not think it prudent to ascend +and would wait till captain Lewis and his party rejoined him. + +On Tuesday 11th, the day when captain Lewis left us, we remained at the +entrance of Maria's river and completed the deposits of all the articles +with which we could dispense. The morning had been fair with a high wind +from the southwest, which shifted in the evening to northwest, when the +weather became cold and the wind high. The next morning, + +Wednesday, 12, we left our encampment with a fair day and a southwest +wind. The river was now so crowded with islands that within the distance +of ten miles and a half we passed eleven of different dimensions before +reaching a high black bluff in a bend on the left, where we saw a great +number of swallows. Within one mile and a half farther we passed four +small islands, two on each side, and at fifteen miles from our +encampment reached a spring which the men called Grog spring: it is on +the northern shore, and at the point where Tansy river approaches within +one hundred yards of the Missouri. From this place we proceeded three +miles to a low bluff on the north opposite to an island, and spent the +night in an old Indian encampment. The bluffs under which we passed were +composed of a blackish clay and coal for about eighty feet, above which +for thirty or forty feet is a brownish yellow earth. The river is very +rapid and obstructed by bars of gravel and stone of different shapes and +sizes, so that three of our canoes were in great danger in the course of +the day. We had a few drops of rain about two o'clock in the afternoon. +The only animals we killed were elk and deer; but we saw great numbers +of rattlesnakes. + +Thursday, 13. The morning was fair and there was some dew on the ground. +After passing two islands we reached at the distance of a mile and a +half a small rapid stream fifty yards wide, emptying itself on the +south, rising in a mountain to the southeast about twelve or fifteen +miles distant, and at this time covered with snow. As it is the channel +for the melted snow of that mountain we called it Snow river: opposite +to its entrance is another island: at one mile and three quarters is +a black bluff of slate on the south; nine miles beyond which, after +passing ten islands, we came to on the southern shore near an old Indian +fortified camp, opposite the lower point of an island, having made +thirteen miles. The number of islands and shoals, the rapidity of the +river, and the quantity of large stones, rendered the navigation very +disagreeable: along the banks we distinguished several low bluffs or +cliffs of slate. There were great numbers of geese and goslings; the +geese not being able to fly at this season. Gooseberries are ripe and in +great abundance; the yellow currant is also common, but not yet ripe. +Our game consisted of buffaloe and goats. + +Friday, 14. Again the day is fine. We made two miles to a small island +in the southern bend, after passing several bad rapids. The current +becomes indeed swifter as we ascend and the canoes frequently receive +water as we drag them with difficulty along. At the distance of six +miles we reached captain Clarke's camp on the fourth, which is on the +north side and opposite to a large gravelly bar. Here the man sent by +captain Lewis joined us with the pleasing intelligence that he had +discovered the falls, and was convinced that the course we were pursuing +was that of the true Missouri. At a mile and a half we reached the upper +point of an island, three quarters of a mile beyond which we encamped on +the south, after making only ten and a quarter miles. Along the river +was but little timber, but much hard slate in the bluffs. + +Saturday, 15. The morning being warm and fair we set out at the usual +hour, but proceeded with great difficulty in consequence of the +increased rapidity of the current. The channel is constantly obstructed +by rocks and dangerous rapids. During the whole progress the men are +in the water hauling the canoes, and walking on sharp rocks and round +stones which cut their feet or cause them to fall. The rattlesnakes too +are so numerous that the men are constantly on their guard against being +bitten by them; yet they bear the fatigues with the most undiminished +cheerfulness. We hear the roar of the falls very distinctly this +morning. At three and three quarter miles we came to a rock in a bend +to the south, resembling a tower. At six and three quarter miles we +reached a large creek on the south, which after one of our men we called +Shield's creek. It is rapid in its course, about thirty yards wide, and +on sending a person five miles up it proved to have a fall of fifteen +feet, and some timber on its low ground. Above this river the bluffs of +the Missouri are of red earth mixed with stratas of black stone; below +it we passed some white clay in the banks which mixes with water in +every respect like flour. At three and three quarter miles we reached +a point on the north opposite an island and a bluff; and one mile and +a quarter further, after passing some red bluffs, came to on the north +side, having made twelve miles. Here we found a rapid so difficult +that we did not think proper to attempt the passage this evening, and +therefore sent to captain Lewis to apprise him of our arrival. We saw +a number of geese, ducks, crows, and blackbirds to-day, the two former +with their young. The river rose a little this evening, but the timber +is still so scarce that we could not procure enough for our use during +the night. + +Sunday, June 16. Some rain fell last night, and this morning the weather +was cloudy and the wind high from the southwest. We passed the rapid by +doubly manning the periogue and canoes, and halted at the distance of a +mile and a quarter to examine the rapids above, which we found to be a +continued succession of cascades as far as the view extended, which was +about two miles. About a mile above where we halted was a large creek +falling in on the south, opposite to which is a large sulphur spring +falling over the rocks on the north: captain Lewis arrived at two from +the falls about five miles above us, and after consulting upon the +subject of the portage, we crossed the river and formed a camp on +the north, having come three quarters of a mile to-day. From our own +observation we had deemed the south side to be the most favourable for a +portage, but two men sent out for the purpose of examining it, reported +that the creek and the ravines intersected the plain so deeply that it +was impossible to cross it. Captain Clarke therefore resolved to examine +more minutely what was the best route: the four canoes were unloaded at +the camp and then sent across the river, where by means of strong cords +they were hauled over the first rapid, whence they may be easily drawn +into the creek. Finding too, that the portage would be at all events +too long to enable us to carry the boats on our shoulders, six men +were set to work to make wheels for carriages to transport them. Since +leaving Maria's river the wife of Chaboneau, our interpreter, has been +dangerously ill, but she now found great relief from the mineral water +of the sulphur spring. It is situated about two hundred yards from +the Missouri, into which it empties over a precipice of rock about +twenty-five feet high. The water is perfectly transparent, strongly +impregnated with sulphur, and we suspect iron also, as the colour of the +hills and bluffs in the neighbourhood indicates the presence of that +metal. In short the water to all appearance is precisely similar to that +of Bowyer's sulphur spring in Virginia. + +Monday 17. Captain Clarke set out with five men to explore the country; +the rest were employed in hunting, making wheels and in drawing the five +canoes and all the baggage up the creek, which we now called Portage +creek: from this creek there is a gradual ascent to the top of the high +plain, while the bluffs of the creek lower down and of the Missouri, +both above and below its entrance, were so steep as to have rendered it +almost impracticable to drag them up from the Missouri. We found great +difficulty and some danger in even ascending the creek thus far, in +consequence of the rapids and rocks of the channel of the creek, which +just above where we brought the canoes has a fall of five feet, and high +and sleep bluffs beyond it: we were very fortunate in finding just below +Portage creek a cottonwood tree about twenty-two inches in diameter, and +large enough to make the carriage wheels; it was perhaps the only one +of the same size within twenty miles; and the cottonwood, which we are +obliged to employ in the other parts of the work, is extremely soft and +brittle. The mast of the white periogue which we mean to leave behind, +supplied us with two axletrees. There are vast quantities of buffaloe +feeding in the plains or watering in the river, which is also strewed +with the floating carcases and limbs of these animals. They go in large +herds to water about the falls, and as all the passages to the river +near that place are narrow and steep, the foremost are pressed into the +river by the impatience of those behind. In this way we have seen ten or +a dozen disappear over the falls in a few minutes. They afford excellent +food for the wolves, bears, and birds of prey; and this circumstance may +account for the reluctance of the bears to yield their dominion over the +neighbourhood. + +Tuesday 18. The periogue was drawn up a little below our camp and +secured in a thick copse of willow bushes. We now began to form a cache +or place of deposit and to dry our goods and other articles which +required inspection. The wagons too are completed. Our hunters brought +us ten deer, and we shot two out of a herd of buffaloe that came to +water at the sulphur spring. There is a species of gooseberry growing +abundantly among the rocks on the sides of the cliffs: it is now ripe, +of a pale red colour, about the size of the common gooseberry, and like +it is an ovate pericarp of soft pulp enveloping a number of small +whitish coloured seeds, and consisting of a yellowish slimy mucilaginous +substance, with a sweet taste; the surface of the berry is covered with +a glutinous adhesive matter, and its fruit though ripe retains its +withered corolla. The shrub itself seldom rises more than two feet high, +is much branched, and has no thorns. The leaves resemble those of the +common gooseberry except in being smaller, and the berry is supported by +separate peduncles or footstalks half an inch long. There are also +immense quantities of grasshoppers of a brown colour in the plains, and +they no doubt contribute to the lowness of the grass, which is not +generally more than three inches high, though it is soft, narrow-leafed +and affords a fine pasture for the buffaloe. + +Wednesday 19. The wind blew violently to-day, as it did yesterday, and +as it does frequently in this open country, where there is not a tree +to break or oppose its force. Some men were sent for the meat killed +yesterday which fortunately had not been discovered by the wolves. +Another party went to Medicine river in quest of elk, which we hope +may be induced to resort there, from there being more wood in that +neighborhood than on the Missouri. All the rest were occupied in packing +the baggage and mending their moccasins, in order to prepare for the +portage. We caught a number of the white fish, but no catfish or +trout. Our poor Indian woman, who had recovered so far as to walk out, +imprudently ate a quantity of the white apple, which with some dried +fish occasioned a return of her fever. + +The meridian altitude of the sun's lower limb, as observed with octant +by back observation, was 53° 15', giving as the latitude of our camp, +47° 8' 59" 5"'. + +Thursday 20. As we were desirous of getting meat enough to last us +during the portage, so that the men might not be diverted from their +labour to look for food, we sent out four hunters to-day: they killed +eleven buffaloe. This was indeed an easy labour, for there are vast +herds coming constantly to the opposite bank of the river to water; they +seem also to make much use of the mineral water of the sulphur spring, +but whether from choice, or because it is more convenient than the +river, we cannot determine, as they sometimes pass near the spring and +go on to the river. Besides this spring, brackish water or that of a +dark colour impregnated with mineral salts, such as we have frequently +met on the Missouri, may be found in small quantities in some of the +steep ravines on the north side of the river opposite to us and at the +falls. + +Captain Clarke returned this evening, having examined the whole course +of the river and fixed the route most practicable for the portage. The +first day, 17th, he was occupied in measuring the heights and distances +along the banks of the river, and slept near a ravine at the foot of the +crooked falls, having very narrowly escaped falling into the river, +where he would have perished inevitably, in descending the cliffs near +the grand cataract. The next day, 18th, he continued the same occupation +and arrived in the afternoon at the junction of Medicine and Missouri +rivers: up the latter he ascended, and passed at the distance of a mile +an island and a little timber in an eastwardly bend of the river. One +mile beyond this he came to the lower point of a large island; another +small island in the middle of the river, and one near the left shore at +the distance of three miles, opposite to the head of which he encamped +near the mouth of a creek which appeared to rise in the South mountain. +These three islands are opposite to each other, and we gave them the +name of the Whitebear islands from observing some of those animals on +them. He killed a beaver, an elk and eight buffaloe. One of the men who +was sent a short distance from the camp to bring home some meat, was +attacked by a white bear, and closely pursued within forty paces of the +camp, and narrowly escaped being caught. Captain Clarke immediately went +with three men in quest of the bear, which he was afraid might surprise +another of the hunters who was out collecting the game. The bear was +however too quick, for before captain Clarke could reach the man, the +bear had attacked him and compelled him to take refuge in the water. He +now ran off as they approached, and it being late they deferred pursuing +him till the next morning. + + + + + CHAPTER XI. + + Description and romantic appearance of the Missouri at the junction + of the Medicine river--the difficulty of transporting the baggage + at the falls--the party employed in the construction of a boat of + skins--the embarrassments they had to encounter for want of proper + materials--during the work the party much troubled by white + bears--violent hail-storm, and providential escape of captain + Clarke and his party--description of a remarkable + fountain--singular explosion heard from the Black mountains--the + boat found to be insufficient, and the serious disappointment of + the party--captain Clarke undertakes to repair the damage by + building canoes, and accomplishes the task. + + +On the 19th, captain Clarke not being able to find the bear mentioned in +the last chapter, spent the day in examining the country both above and +below the Whitebear islands, and concluded that the place of his +encampment would be the best point for the extremity of the portage. The +men were therefore occupied in drying the meat to be left here. Immense +numbers of buffaloe are every where round, and they saw a summer duck +which is now sitting. The next morning, 20th, he crossed the level +plain, fixed stakes to mark the route of the portage, till he passed a +large ravine which would oblige us to make the portage farther from the +river: after this there being no other obstacle he went to the river +where he had first struck it, and took its courses and distances down to +the camp. From the draught and survey of captain Clarke, we had now a +clear and connected view of the falls, cascades, and rapids of the +Missouri. + +This river is three hundred yards wide at the point where it receives +the waters of Medicine river, which is one hundred and thirty-seven +yards in width. The united current continues three hundred and +twenty-eight poles to a small rapid on the north side, from which it +gradually widens to one thousand four hundred yards, and at the distance +of five hundred and forty-eight poles reaches the head of the rapids, +narrowing as it approaches them. Here the hills on the north which had +withdrawn from the bank closely border the river, which, for the space +of three hundred and twenty poles, makes its way over the rocks with a +descent of thirty feet: in this course the current is contracted to five +hundred and eighty yards, and after throwing itself over a small pitch +of five feet, forms a beautiful cascade of twenty-six feet five inches; +this does not however fall immediately perpendicular, being stopped by a +part of the rock which projects at about one third of the distance. +After descending this fall, and passing the cottonwood island on which +the eagle has fixed its nest, the river goes on for five hundred and +thirty-two poles over rapids and little falls, the estimated descent of +which is thirteen feet six inches till it is joined by a large fountain +boiling up underneath the rocks near the edge of the river, into which +it falls with a cascade of eight feet. It is of the most perfect +clearness and rather of a bluish cast; and even after falling into the +Missouri it preserves its colour for half a mile. From this fountain the +river descends with increased rapidity for the distance of two hundred +and fourteen poles, during which the estimated descent is five feet from +this for a distance of one hundred and thirty-five poles, the river +descends fourteen feet seven inches including a perpendicular fall of +six feet seven inches. The river has now become pressed into a space of +four hundred and seventy-three yards, and here forms a grand cataract by +falling over a plain rock the whole distance across the river to the +depth of forty-seven feet eight inches: after recovering itself the +Missouri then proceeds with an estimated descent of three feet, till at +the distance of one hundred and two poles it again is precipitated down +the Crooked falls of nineteen feet perpendicular; below this at the +mouth of a deep ravine is a fall of five feet, after which for the +distance of nine hundred and seventy poles the descent is much more +gradual, not being more than ten feet, and then succeeds a handsome +level plain for the space of one hundred and seventy-eight poles with a +computed descent of three feet, making a bend towards the north. Thence +it descends during four hundred and eight poles, about eighteen feet and +a half, when it makes a perpendicular fall of two feet, which is ninety +poles beyond the great cataract, in approaching which it descends +thirteen feet within two hundred yards, and gathering strength from its +confined channel, which is only two hundred and eighty yards wide, +rushes over the fall to the depth of eighty-seven feet and three +quarters of an inch. After raging among the rocks and losing itself in +foam, it is compressed immediately into a bed of ninety-three yards in +width: it continues for three hundred and forty poles to the entrance of +a run or deep ravine where there is a fall of three feet, which, joined +to the decline of the river during that course, makes the descent six +feet. As it goes on the descent within the next two hundred and forty +poles is only four feet: from this passing a run or deep ravine the +descent for four hundred poles is thirteen feet; within two hundred and +forty poles a second descent of eighteen feet; thence one hundred and +sixty poles a descent of six feet; after which to the mouth of Portage +creek, a distance of two hundred and eighty poles, the descent is ten +feet. From this survey and estimate it results that the river +experiences a descent of three hundred and fifty-two feet in the course +of two and three quarter miles, from the commencement of the rapids to +the mouth of Portage creek, exclusive of the almost impassable rapids +which extend for a mile below its entrance. + +The latitude of our camp below the entrance of Portage creek, was found +to be 47° 7' 10" 3, as deduced from a meridian altitude of the sun's +lower limb taken with octant by back observation giving 53° 10'. + +Friday, June 21. Having made the necessary preparations for continuing +our route, a part of the baggage was carried across the creek into the +high plain, three miles in advance and placed on one of the carriages +with truck wheels: the rest of the party was employed in drying meat and +dressing elk skins. We killed several muledeer and an elk, and observed +as usual vast quantities of buffaloe who came to drink at the river. For +the first time on the Missouri we have seen near the falls a species of +fishing duck, the body of which is brown and white, the wings white, and +the head and upper part of the neck of a brick red, with a narrow beak, +which seems to be of the same kind common in the Susquehanna, Potomac +and James' river. The little wood which this neighbourhood affords +consists of the broad and narrow-leafed cottonwood, the box alder, the +narrow and broad-leafed willow, the large or sweet willow, which was not +common below Maria's river, but which here attains the same size and has +the same appearance as in the Atlantic states. The undergrowth consists +of roses, gooseberries, currants, small honeysuckles, and the redwood, +the inner part of which the _engages_ or watermen are fond of smoking +when mixed with tobacco. + +Saturday, 22. We now set out to pass the portage and halted for dinner +at eight miles distance near a little stream. The axletrees of our +carriage, which had been made of an old mast, and the cottonwood tongues +broke before we came there: but we renewed them with the timber of the +sweet willow, which lasted till within half a mile of our intended camp, +when the tongues gave way and we were obliged to take as much baggage as +we could carry on our backs down to the river, where we formed an +encampment in a small grove of timber opposite to the Whitebear islands. +Here the banks on both sides of the river are handsome, level, and +extensive; that near our camp is not more than two feet above the +surface of the water. The river is about eight hundred yards wide just +above these islands, ten feet deep in most places, and with a very +gentle current. The plains however on this part of the river are not so +fertile as those from the mouth of the Muscleshell and thence downwards; +there is much more stone on the sides of the hills and on the broken +lands than is to be found lower down. We saw in the plains vast +quantities of buffaloe, a number of small birds, and the large brown +curlew, which is now sitting, and lays its eggs, which are of a pale +blue with black-specks, on the ground without any nest. There is also a +species of lark much resembling the bird called the oldfield lark, with +a yellow breast and a black spot on the croup; though it differs from +the latter in having its tail formed of feathers of an unequal length +and pointed; the beak too is somewhat longer and more curved, and the +note differs considerably. The prickly pear annoyed us very much to-day +by sticking through our moccasins. As soon as we had kindled our fires +we examined the meat which captain Clarke had left here, but found that +the greater part of it had been taken by the wolves. + +Sunday, 23. After we had brought up the canoe and baggage captain Clarke +went down to the camp at Portage creek, where four of the men had been +left with the Indian woman. Captain Lewis during the morning prepared +the camp, and in the afternoon went down in a canoe to Medicine river to +look after the three men who had been sent thither to hunt on the 19th, +and from whom nothing had as yet been heard. He went up the river about +half a mile and then walked along on the right bank, hallooing as he +went, till at the distance of five miles he found one of them who had +fixed his camp on the opposite bank, where he had killed seven deer and +dried about six hundred pounds of buffaloe meat, but had killed no elk, +the animal chiefly wanted. He knew nothing of his companions except that +on the day of their departure from camp he had left them at the falls +and come on to Medicine river, not having seen them since. As it was too +late to return captain Lewis passed over on a raft which he made for +the purpose and spent the night at Shannon's camp, and the next morning, + +Monday, 24, sent J. Fields up the river with orders to go four miles and +return, whether he found the two absent hunters or not; then descending +the southwest side of Medicine river, he crossed the Missouri in the +canoe, and sent Shannon back to his camp to join Fields and bring the +meat which they had killed: this they did, and arrived in the evening at +the camp on Whitebear islands. A part of the men from Portage creek also +arrived with two canoes and baggage. On going down yesterday captain +Clarke cut off several angles of the former route so as to shorten the +Portage considerably, and marked it with stakes: he arrived there in +time to have two of the canoes carried up in the high plain about a mile +in advance. Here they all repaired their moccasins, and put on double +soals to protect them from the prickly pear and from the sharp points of +earth which have been formed by the trampling of the buffaloe during the +late rains: this of itself is sufficient to render the portage +disagreeable to one who had no burden; but as the men are loaded as +heavily as their strength will permit, the crossing is really painful: +some are limping with the soreness of their feet, others are scarcely +able to stand for more than a few minutes from the heat and fatigue: +they are all obliged to halt and rest frequently, and at almost every +stopping place they fall and many of them are asleep in an instant; yet +no one complains and they go on with great cheerfulness. At their camp +Drewyer and Fields joined them, and while captain Lewis was looking for +them at Medicine river, they returned to report the absence of Shannon +about whom they had been very uneasy. They had killed several buffaloe +at the bend of the Missouri above the falls: and dried about eight +hundred pounds of meat and got one hundred pounds of tallow: they had +also killed some deer, but had seen no elk. After getting the party in +motion with the canoes captain Clarke returned to his camp at Portage +creek. + +We were now occupied in fitting up a boat of skins, the frame of which +had been prepared for the purpose at Harper's ferry. It was made of +iron, thirty-six feet long, four feet and a half in the beam, and +twenty-six inches wide in the bottom. Two men had been sent this morning +for timber to complete it, but they could find scarcely any even +tolerably straight sticks four and a half feet long, and as the +cottonwood is too soft and brittle we were obliged to use the willow and +box-alder. + +Tuesday, 25. The party returned to the lower camp. Two men were sent on +the large island to look for timber. J. Fields was sent up the Missouri +to hunt elk; but he returned about noon and informed us that a few miles +above he saw two white bear near the river, and in attempting to fire at +them came suddenly on a third, who being only a few steps off +immediately attacked him; that in running to escape from the monster he +leaped down a steep bank of the river, where falling on a bar of stone +he cut his hand and knee and bent his gun; but fortunately for him the +bank concealed him from his antagonist or he would have been most +probably lost. The other two returned with a small quantity of bark and +timber, which was all they could find on the island; but they had killed +two elk: these were valuable, as we are desirous of procuring the skins +of that animal in order to cover the boat, as they are more strong and +durable than those of the buffaloe, and do not shrink so much in drying. +The party that went to the lower camp had one canoe and the baggage +carried into the high plain to be ready in the morning, and then all who +could make use of their feet had a dance on the green to the music of a +violin. We have been unsuccessful in our attempt to catch fish, nor does +there seem to be any in this part of the river. We observe a number of +water terrapins. There are quantities of young blackbirds in these +islands just beginning to fly. Among the vegetable productions we +observe a species of wild rye which is now heading: it rises to the +height of eighteen or twenty inches, the beard remarkably fine and soft; +the culen is jointed, and in every respect except in height it resembles +the wild rye. Great quantities of mint too, like the peppermint, are +found here. + +The winds are sometimes violent in these plains. The men inform us that +as they were bringing one of the canoes along on truck-wheels, they +hoisted the sail and the wind carried her along for some distance. + +Wednesday 26. Two men were sent on the opposite side of the river for +bark and timber, of which they procured some, but by no means enough for +our purposes. The bark of the cottonwood is too soft, and our only +dependence is on the sweet willow, which has a tough strong bark; the +two hunters killed seven buffaloe. A party arrived from below with two +canoes and baggage, and the wind being from the southeast, they had made +considerable progress with the sails. On their arrival one of the men +who had been considerably heated and fatigued, swallowed a very hearty +draught of water, and was immediately taken ill; captain Lewis bled him +with a penknife, having no other instrument at hand, and succeeded in +restoring him to health the next day. Captain Clarke formed a second +cache or deposit near the camp, and placed the swivel under the rocks +near the river. The antelopes are still scattered through the plains; +the females with their young, which are generally two in number, and the +males by themselves. + +Thursday 27. The party were employed in preparing timber for the boat, +except two who were sent to hunt. About one in the afternoon a cloud +arose from the southwest and brought with it violent thunder, lightning, +and hail: soon after it passed the hunters came in from about four miles +above us. They had killed nine elk, and three bear. As they were hunting +on the river they saw a low ground covered with thick brushwood, where +from the tracks along shore they thought a bear had probably taken +refuge: they therefore landed, without making a noise, and climbed a +tree about twenty feet above the ground. Having fixed themselves +securely, they raised a loud shout, and a bear instantly rushed towards +them. These animals never climb, and therefore when he came to the tree +and stopped to look at them, Drewyer shot him in the head; he proved to +be the largest we have yet seen, his nose appeared to be like that of a +common ox, his fore feet measured nine inches across, and the hind feet +were seven inches wide, and eleven and three quarters long, exclusive of +the talons. One of these animals came within thirty yards of the camp +last night, and carried off some buffaloe meat which we had placed on a +pole. In the evening after the storm the water on this side of the river +became of a deep crimson colour, probably caused by some stream above +washing down a kind of soft red stone, which we observed in the +neighbouring bluffs and gullies. At the camp below, the men who left us +in the morning were busy in preparing their load for to-morrow, which +were impeded by the rain, hail, and the hard wind from the northwest. + +Friday 28. The party all occupied in making the boat; they obtained a +sufficient quantity of willow bark to line her, and over these were +placed the elk skins, and when they failed we were obliged to use the +buffaloe hide. The white bear have now become exceedingly troublesome; +they constantly infest our camp during the night, and though they have +not attacked us, as our dog who patroles all night gives us notice of +their approach, yet we are obliged to sleep with our arms by our sides +for fear of accident, and we cannot send one man alone to any distance, +particularly if he has to pass through brushwood. We saw two of them +to-day on the large island opposite to us, but as we are all so much +occupied now, we mean to reserve ourselves for some leisure moment, and +then make a party to drive them from the islands. The river has risen +nine inches since our arrival here. + +At Portage creek captain Clarke completed the cache, in which we +deposited whatever we could spare from our baggage; some ammunition, +provisions, books, the specimens of plants and minerals, and a draught +of the river from its entrance to fort Mandan. After closing it he broke +up the encampment, and took on all the remaining baggage to the high +plain, about three miles. Portage creek has risen considerably in +consequence of the rain, and the water had become of a deep crimson +colour, and ill tasted; on overtaking the canoe he found that there was +more baggage than could be carried on the two carriages, and therefore +left some of the heavy articles which could not be injured, and +proceeded on to Willowrun where he encamped for the night. Here they +made a supper on two buffaloe which they killed on the way; but passed +the night in the rain, with a high wind from the southwest. In the +morning, + +Saturday 29, finding it impossible to reach the end of the portage with +their present load, in consequence of the state of the road after the +rain, he sent back nearly all his party to bring on the articles which +had been left yesterday. Having lost some notes and remarks which he had +made on first ascending the river, he determined to go up to the +Whitebear islands along its banks, in order to supply the deficiency. He +there left one man to guard the baggage, and went on to the falls +accompanied by his servant York, Chaboneau and his wife with her young +child. On his arrival there he observed a very dark cloud rising in the +west which threatened rain, and looked around for some shelter, but +could find no place where they would be secure from being blown into the +river if the wind should prove as violent as it sometimes does in the +plains. At length about a quarter of a mile above the falls he found a +deep ravine where there were some shelving rocks, under which he took +refuge. They were on the upper side of the ravine near the river, +perfectly safe from the rain, and therefore laid down their guns, +compass, and other articles which they carried with them. The shower +was at first moderate, it then increased to a heavy rain, the effects of +which they did not feel: soon after a torrent of rain and hail +descended; the rain seemed to fall in a solid mass, and instantly +collecting in the ravine came rolling down in a dreadful current, +carrying the mud and rocks, and every thing that opposed it. Captain +Clarke fortunately saw it a moment before it reached them, and springing +up with his gun and shotpouch in his left hand, with his right clambered +up the steep bluff, pushing on the Indian woman with her child in her +arms; her husband too had seized her hand and was pulling her up the +hill, but he was so terrified at the danger that but for captain Clark, +himself and his wife and child would have been lost. So instantaneous +was the rise of the water, that before captain Clark had reached his gun +and began to ascend the bank, the water was up to his waist, and he +could scarce get up faster than it rose, till it reached the height of +fifteen feet with a furious current, which had they waited a moment +longer would have swept them into the river just above the great falls, +down which they must inevitable have been precipitated. They reached the +plain in safety, and found York who had separated from them just before +the storm to hunt some buffaloe, and was now returning to find his +master. They had been obliged to escape so rapidly that captain Clarke +lost his compass and umbrella. Chaboneau left his gun, shotpouch, and +tomahawk, and the Indian woman had just time to grasp her child, before +the net in which it lay at her feet was carried down the current. He now +relinquished his intention of going up the river and returned to the +camp at Willowrun. Here he found that the party sent this morning for +the baggage, had all returned to camp in great confusion, leaving their +loads in the plain. On account of the heat they generally go nearly +naked, and with no covering on their heads. The hail was so large and +driven so furiously against them by the high wind, that it knocked +several of them down: one of them particularly was thrown on the ground +three times, and most of them bleeding freely and complained of being +much bruised. Willow run had risen six feet since the rain, and as the +plains were so wet that they could not proceed, they passed the night at +their camp. + +At the Whitebear camp also, we had not been insensible to the +hail-storm, though less exposed. In the morning there had been a heavy +shower of rain, after which it became fair. After assigning to the men +their respective employments, captain Lewis took one of them and went to +see the large fountain near the falls. For about six miles he passed +through a beautiful level plain, and then on reaching the break of the +river hills, was overtaken by the gust of wind from the southwest +attended by lightning, thunder, and rain: fearing a renewal of the scene +on the 27th, they took shelter in a little gully where there were some +broad stones with which they meant to protect themselves against the +hail; but fortunately there was not much, and that of a small size; so +that they felt no inconvenience except that of being exposed without +shelter for an hour, and being drenched by the rain: after it was over +they proceeded to the fountain which is perhaps the largest in America. +It is situated in a pleasant level plain, about twenty-five yards from +the river, into which it falls over some steep irregular rocks with a +sudden ascent of about six feet in one part of its course. The water +boils up from among the rocks and with such force near the centre, that +the surface seems higher there than the earth on the sides of the +fountain, which is a handsome turf of fine green grass. The water is +extremely pure, cold and pleasant to the taste, not being impregnated +with lime or any foreign substance. It is perfectly transparent and +continues its bluish cast for half a mile down the Missouri, +notwithstanding the rapidity of the river. After examining it for some +time captain Lewis returned to the camp. + +Sunday 30. In the morning Captain Clarke sent the men to bring up the +baggage left in the plains yesterday. On their return the axletrees and +carriages were repaired, and the baggage, conveyed on the shoulders of +the party across Willow run which had fallen as low as three feet. The +carriages being then taken over, a load of baggage was carried to the +six-mile stake, deposited there, and the carriages brought back. Such is +the state of the plains that this operation consumed the day. Two men +were sent to the falls to look for the articles lost yesterday; but they +found nothing but the compass covered with mud and sand at the mouth of +the ravine; the place at which captain Clarke had been caught by the +storm, was filled with large rocks. The men complain much of the bruises +received yesterday from the hail. A more than usual number of buffaloe +appeared about the camp to-day, and furnished plenty of meat: captain +Clarke thought that at one view he must have seen at least ten thousand. +In the course of the day there was a heavy gust of wind from the +southwest, after which the evening was fair. + +At the Whitebear camp we had a heavy dew this morning, which is quite a +remarkable occurrence. The party continues to be occupied with the boat, +the crossbars for which are now finished, and there remain only the +strips to complete the wood work: the skins necessary to cover it have +already been prepared and they amount to twenty-eight elk skins and four +buffaloe skins. Among our game were two beaver, which we have had +occasion to observe always are found wherever there is timber. We also +killed a large bat or goatsucker of which there are many in this +neighbourhood, resembling in every respect those of the same species in +the United States. We have not seen the leather-winged bat for some +time, nor are there any of the small goatsucker in this part of the +Missouri. We have not seen either that species of goatsucker or +nighthawk called the whippoorwill, which is commonly confounded in the +United States with the large goatsucker which we observe here; this last +prepares no nest but lays its eggs in the open plains; they generally +begin to sit on two eggs, and we believe raise only one brood in a +season: at the present moment they are just hatching their young. + +Monday, July 1. After a severe day's work captain Clarke reached our +camp in the evening, accompanied by his party and all the baggage except +that left at the six-mile stake, for which they were too much fatigued +to return. The route from the lower camp on Portage creek to that near +Whitebear island, having been now measured and examined by captain +Clarke was as follows: + +From our camp opposite the last considerable rapid to the entrance of +Portage creek south 9° east for three quarters of a mile: thence on a +course south 10° east for two miles, though for the canoes the best +route is to the left of this course, and strikes Portage one mile and +three quarters from its entrance, avoiding in this way a very steep hill +which lies above Portage creek; from this south 18° west for four miles, +passing the head of a drain or ravine which falls into the Missouri +below the great falls, and to the Willow run which has always a +plentiful supply of good water and some timber: here the course turns to +south 45° west for four miles further; then south 66° west three miles, +crossing at the beginning of the course the head of a drain which falls +into the Missouri at the Crooked Falls, and reaching an elevated point +of the plain from which south 42° west. On approaching the river on this +course there is a long and gentle descent from the high plain, after +which the road turns a little to the right of the course up the river to +our camp. The whole portage is seventeen and three quarter miles. + +At the Whitebear camp we were occupied with the boat and digging a pit +for the purpose of making some tar. The day has been warm, and the +mosquitoes troublesome. We were fortunate enough to observe equal +altitudes of the sun with sextant, which since our arrival here we have +been prevented from doing, by flying clouds and storms in the evening. + +Tuesday, July 2d. A shower of rain fell very early this morning. We then +despatched some men for the baggage left behind yesterday, and the rest +were engaged in putting the boat together. This was accomplished in +about three hours, and then we began to sew on the leather over the +crossbars or iron on the inner side of the boat which form the ends of +the sections. By two o'clock the last of the baggage arrived, to the +great delight of the party who were anxious to proceed. The mosquitoes +we find very troublesome. + +Having completed our celestial observations we went over to the large +island to make an attack upon its inhabitants the bears, who have +annoyed us very much of late, and who were prowling about our camp all +last night. We found that the part of the island frequented by the bear +forms an almost impenetrable thicket of the broad-leafed willow: into +this we forced our way in parties of three; but could see only one bear, +who instantly attacked Drewyer. Fortunately as he was rushing on the +hunter shot him through the heart within twenty paces and he fell, which +enabled Drewyer to get out of his way: we then followed him one hundred +yards and found that the wound had been mortal. Not being able to +discover any more of these animals we returned to camp: here in turning +over some of the baggage we caught a rat somewhat larger than the common +European rat, and of a lighter colour: the body and outer parts of the +legs and head of a light lead colour; the inner side of the legs as well +as the belly, feet and ears are white; the ears are not covered with +hair, and are much larger than those of the common rat; the toes also +are longer, the eyes black and prominent, the whiskers very long and +full; the tail rather longer than the body, and covered with fine fur +and hair of the same size with that on the back, which is very close, +short, and silky in its texture. This was the first we had met, although +its nests are very frequent among the cliffs of rocks and hollow trees, +where we also found large quantities of the shells and seed of the +prickly pear, on which we conclude they chiefly subsist. The musquitoes +are uncommonly troublesome. The wind was again high from the southwest: +these winds are in fact always the coldest and most violent which we +experience, and the hypothesis which we have formed on that subject is, +that the air coming in contact with the Snowy mountains immediately +becomes chilled and condensed, and being thus rendered heavier than the +air below it descends into the rarified air below or into the vacuum +formed by the constant action of the sun on the open unsheltered plains. +The clouds rise suddenly near these mountains and distribute their +contents partially over the neighbouring plains. The same cloud will +discharge hail alone in one part, hail and rain in another, and rain +only in a third, and all within the space of a few miles; while at the +same time there is snow falling on the mountains to the southeast of us. +There is at present no snow on those mountains; that which covered them +on our arrival as well as that which has since fallen having +disappeared. The mountains to the north and northwest of us are still +entirely covered with snow, and indeed there has been no perceptible +diminution of it since we first saw them, which induces a belief either +that the clouds prevailing at this season do not reach their summits or +that they deposit their snow only. They glisten with great beauty when +the sun shines on them in a particular direction, and most probably from +this glittering appearance have derived the name of the Shining +mountains. + +Wednesday, 3. Nearly the whole party were employed in different labours +connected with the boat, which is now almost completed: but we have not +as yet been able to obtain tar from our kiln, a circumstance that will +occasion us not a little embarrassment. Having been told by the Indians +that on leaving the falls we should soon pass the buffaloe country, we +have before us the prospect of fasting occasionally; but in order to +provide a supply we sent out the hunters who killed only a buffaloe and +two antelopes, which added to six beaver and two otter have been all our +game for two or three days. At ten in the morning we had a light shower +which scarcely wet the grass. + +Thursday, July 4th. The boat was now completed except what is in fact +the most difficult part, the making her seams secure. We had intended to +despatch a canoe with part of our men to the United States early this +spring; but not having yet seen the Snake Indians, or knowing whether to +calculate on their friendship or enmity, we have decided not to weaken +our party which is already scarcely sufficient to repel any hostility. +We were afraid too that such a measure might dishearten those who +remain; and as we have never suggested it to them, they are all +perfectly and enthusiastically attached to the enterprise, and willing +to encounter any danger to ensure its success. We had a heavy dew this +morning. + +Since our arrival at the falls we have repeatedly heard a strange noise +coming from the mountains in a direction a little to the north of west. +It is heard at different periods of the day and night, sometimes when +the air is perfectly still and without a cloud, and consists of one +stroke only, or of five or six discharges in quick succession. It is +loud and resembles precisely the sound of a six pound piece of ordnance +at the distance of three miles. The Minnetarees frequently mentioned +this noise like thunder, which they said the mountains made; but we had +paid no attention to it, believing it to have been some superstition or +perhaps a falsehood. The watermen also of the party say that the Pawnees +and Ricaras give the same account of a noise heard in the Black +mountains to the westward of them. The solution of the mystery given by +the philosophy of the watermen is, that it is occasioned by the +bursting of the rich mines of silver confined within the bosom of the +mountain. An elk and a beaver are all that were killed to-day: the +buffaloe seemed to have withdrawn from our neighbourhood, though several +of the men who went to-day to visit the falls for the first time, +mention that they are still abundant at that place. We contrived however +to spread not a very sumptuous but a comfortable table in honour of the +day, and in the evening gave the men a drink of spirits, which was the +last of our stock. Some of them appeared sensible to the effects of even +so small a quantity, and as is usual among them on all festivals, the +fiddle was produced and a dance begun, which lasted till nine o'clock, +when it was interrupted by a heavy shower of rain. They continued +however their merriment till a late hour. + +Friday 5. The boat was brought up into a high situation and fires +kindled under her in order to dry her more expeditiously. Despairing now +of procuring any tar, we formed a composition of pounded charcoal with +beeswax and buffaloe tallow to supply its place; should this resource +fail us it will be very unfortunate, as in every other respect the boat +answers our purposes completely. Although not quite dry she can be +carried with ease by five men; her form is as complete as could be +wished; very strong, and will carry at least eight thousand pounds with +her complement of hands. Besides our want of tar, we have been unlucky +in sewing the skins with a needle which had sharp edges instead of a +point merely, although a large thong was used in order to fill the hole, +yet it shrinks in drying and leaves the hole open, so that we fear the +boat will leak. + +A large herd of buffaloe came near us and we procured three of them: +besides which were killed two wolves and three antelopes. In the course +of the day other herds of buffaloe came near our camp on their way down +the river: these herds move with great method and regularity. Although +ten or twelve herds are seen scattered from each other over a space of +many miles, yet if they are undisturbed by pursuit they will be +uniformly travelling in the same direction. + +Saturday 6. Last night there were several showers of rain and hail, +attended with thunder and lightning: and about day break a heavy storm +came on from the southwest with one continued roar of thunder, and rain +and hail. The hail which was as large as musket balls, covered the +ground completely; and on collecting some of it, it lasted during the +day and served to cool the water. The red and yellow currant is abundant +and now ripe, although still a little acid. We have seen in this +neighbourhood what we have not met before, a remarkably small fox which +associates in bands and burrows in the prairie, like the small wolf, but +have not yet been able to obtain any of them, as they are extremely +vigilant, and betake themselves on the slightest alarm to their burrows +which are very deep. + +Sunday 7. The weather is warm but cloudy, so that the moisture retained +by the bark after the rain leaves it slowly, though we have small fires +constantly under the boat. We have no tents, and therefore are obliged +to use the sails to keep off the bad weather. Our buffaloe skins too, +are scarcely sufficient to cover our baggage, but the men are now +dressing others to replace their present leather clothing, which soon +rots by being so constantly exposed to water. In the evening the hunters +returned with the skins of only three buffaloe, two antelope, four deer, +and three wolf skins, and reported that the buffaloe had gone further +down the river; two other hunters who left us this morning could find +nothing except one elk: in addition to this we caught a beaver. The +musquitoes still disturb us very much, and the blowing-flies swarm in +vast numbers round the boat. At four in the afternoon we had a light +shower of rain attended with some thunder and lightning. + +Monday 8. In order more fully to replace the notes of the river which +he had lost, and which he was prevented from supplying by the storm of +the twenty-ninth ult. captain Clarke set out after breakfast, taking +with him nearly the whole party with a view of shooting buffaloe if +there should be any near the falls. After getting some distance in the +plains the men were divided into squads, and he with two others struck +the Missouri at the entrance of Medicine river, and thence proceeded +down to the great cataract. He found that the immense herds of buffaloe +have entirely disappeared, and he thought had gone below the falls. +Having made the necessary measurements, he returned through the plains +and reached camp late in the evening; the whole party had killed only +three buffaloe, three antelopes and a deer; they had also shot a small +fox, and brought a living ground-squirrel somewhat larger than those of +the United States. + +The day was warm and fair, but a slight rain fell in the afternoon. The +boat having now become sufficiently dry, we gave it a coat of the +composition, which after a proper interval was repeated, and the next +morning, + +Tuesday 9, she was launched into the water, and swam perfectly well: the +seats were then fixed and the oars fitted; but after we had loaded her, +as well as the canoes, and were on the point of setting out a violent +wind caused the waves to wet the baggage, so that we were forced to +unload them. The wind continued high till evening, when to our great +disappointment we discovered that nearly all the composition had +separated from the skins, and left the seams perfectly exposed; so that +the boat now leaked very much. To repair this misfortune without pitch +is impossible, and as none of that article is to be procured, we +therefore, however reluctantly, are obliged to abandon her, after having +had so much labour in the construction. We now saw that the section of +the boat covered with buffaloe skins on which hair had been left, +answered better than the elk skins and leaked but little; while that +part which was covered hair about one eighth of an inch, retained the +composition perfectly, and remained sound and dry. From this we +perceived that had we employed buffaloe instead of elk skins, and not +singed them so closely as we have done, carefully avoiding to cut the +leather in sewing, the boat would have been sufficient even with the +present composition, or had we singed instead of shaving the elk skins +we might have succeeded. But we discovered our error too late: the +buffaloe had deserted us, the travelling season was so fast advancing +that we had no time to spare for experiments, and therefore finding that +she could be no longer useful she was sunk in the water, so as to soften +the skins and enable us the more easily to take her to pieces. It now +became necessary to provide other means for transporting the baggage +which we had intended to stow in her. For this purpose we shall want two +canoes, but for many miles below the mouth of the Muscleshell river to +this place, we have not seen a single tree fit to be used in that way. +The hunters however who had hitherto been sent after timber, mention +that there is a low ground on the opposite side of the river, about +eight miles above us by land, and more than twice that distance by +water, in which we may probably find trees large enough for our +purposes. Captain Clarke therefore determined to set out by land for +that place with ten of the best workmen who would be occupied in +building the canoes till the rest of the party, after taking the boat to +pieces and making the necessary deposits, should transport the baggage +and join them with the other six canoes. + +Wednesday 10. He accordingly passed over to the opposite side of the +river with his party, and proceeded on eight miles by land, the distance +by water being twenty-three and three quarter miles. Here he found two +cottonwood trees, but on cutting them down, one proved to be hollow, +split at the top in falling, and both were much damaged at the bottom. +He searched the neighbourhood but could find none which would suit +better, and therefore was obliged to make use of those which he had +felled, shortening them in order to avoid the cracks, and supplying the +deficiency by making them as wide as possible. They were equally at a +loss for wood of which they might make handles for their axes, the eyes +of which not being round they were obliged to split the timber in such a +manner that thirteen of the handles broke in the course of the day, +though made of the best wood they could find for the purpose, which was +the chokecherry. + +The rest of the party took the frame of the boat to pieces, deposited it +in a cache or hole, with a draught of the country from fort Mandan to +this place, and also some other papers and small articles of less +importance. After this we amused ourselves with fishing, and although we +had thought on our arrival that there were none in this part of the +river, we caught some of a species of white chub below the falls, but +few in number, and small in size. + +Serjeant Ordway with four canoes and eight men had set sail in the +morning, with part of the baggage to the place where captain Clarke had +fixed his camp, but the wind was so high that he only reached within +three miles of that place, and encamped for the night. + +Thursday, July 11. In the morning one of the canoes joined captain +Clarke: the other three having on board more valuable articles, which +would have been injured by the water, went on more cautiously, and did +not reach the camp till the evening. Captain Clarke then had the canoes +unloaded and sent back, but the high wind prevented their floating down +nearer than about eight miles above us. His party were busily engaged +with the canoes, and their hunters supplied them with three fat deer and +a buffaloe, in addition to two deer and an antelope killed yesterday. +The few men who were with captain Lewis were occupied in hunting, but +with not much success, having killed only one buffaloe. They heard about +sunset two discharges of the tremendous mountain artillery: they also +saw several very large gray eagles, much larger than those of the United +States, and most probably a distinct species, though the bald eagle of +this country is not quite so large as that of the United States. The men +have been much afflicted with painful whitlows, and one of them disabled +from working by this complaint in his hand. + +Friday, 12. In consequence of the wind the canoes did not reach the +lower camp till late in the afternoon, before which time captain Lewis +sent all the men he could spare up the river to assist in building the +boats, and the day was too far advanced to reload and send them up +before morning. The mosquitoes are very troublesome, and they have a +companion not less so, a large black gnat which does not sting, but +attacks the eyes in swarms. The party with captain Clarke are employed +on the canoes: in the course of the work serjeant Pryor dislocated his +shoulder yesterday, but it was replaced immediately, and though painful +does not threaten much injury. The hunters brought in three deer and two +otter. This last animal has been numerous since the water has become +sufficiently clear for them to take fish. The blue-crested fisher, or as +it is sometimes called, the kingfisher, is an inhabitant of this part of +the river; it is a bird rare on the Missouri: indeed we had not seen +more than three or four of them from its entrance to Maria's river, and +even those did not seem to reside on the Missouri but on some of the +clearer streams which empty into it, as they were seen near the mouths +of those streams. + +Saturday 13. The morning being fair and calm captain Lewis had all the +remaining baggage embarked on board the six canoes, which sailed with +two men in each for the upper camp. Then with a sick man and the Indian +woman, he left the encampment, and crossing over the river went on by +land to join captain Clarke. From the head of the Whitebear islands he +proceeded in a southwest direction, at the distance of three miles, till +he struck the Missouri, which he then followed till he reached the place +where all the party were occupied in boat-building. On his way he passed +a very large Indian lodge, which was probably designed as a great +council-house, but it differs in its construction from all that we have +seen lower down the Missouri or elsewhere. The form of it was a circle +two hundred and sixteen feet in circumference at the base, and composed +of sixteen large cottonwood poles about fifty feet long, and at their +thicker ends, which touched the ground, about the size of a man's body: +they were distributed at equal distances, except that one was omitted to +the east, probably for the entrance. From the circumference of this +circle the poles converged towards the centre where they were united and +secured by large withes of willow brush. There was no covering over this +fabric, in the centre of which were the remains of a large fire, and +round it the marks of about eighty leathern lodges. He also saw a number +of turtledoves, and some pigeons, of which he shot one differing in no +respect from the wild pigeon of the United States. The country exhibits +its usual appearances, the timber confined to the river, the country on +both sides as far as the eye can reach being entirely destitute of trees +or brush. In the low ground in which we are building the canoes, the +timber is larger and more abundant than we have seen it on the Missouri +for several hundred miles. The soil too is good, for the grass and weeds +reach about two feet high, being the tallest we have observed this +season, though on the high plains and prairies the grass is at no season +above three inches in height. Among these weeds are the sandrush, and +nettle in small quantities; the plains are still infested by great +numbers of the small birds already mentioned, among whom is the brown +curlew. The current of the river is here extremely gentle; the buffaloe +have not yet quite gone, for the hunters brought in three in very good +order. It requires some diligence to supply us plentifully, for as we +reserve our parched meal for the Rocky mountains, where we do not expect +to find much game, our principal article of food is meat, and the +consumption of the whole thirty-two persons belonging to the party, +amounts to four deer, an elk and a deer, one buffaloe every twenty four +hours. The musquitoes and gnats persecute us as violently as below, so +that we can get no sleep unless defended by biers, with which we are all +provided. We here found several plants hitherto unknown to us, and of +which we preserved specimens. + +Serjeant Ordway proceeded with the six canoes five miles up the river, +but the wind becoming so high as to wet the baggage he was obliged to +unload and dry it. The wind abated at five o'clock in the evening, when +he again proceeded eight miles and encamped. The next morning, + +Sunday, July 14, he joined us about noon. On leaving the Whitebear camp +he passed at a short distance a little creek or run coming in on the +left. This had been already examined and called Flattery run; it +contains back water only, with very extensive low grounds, which rising +into large plains reach the mountains on the east; then passed a willow +island on the left within one mile and a half, and reached two miles +further a cliff of rocks in a bend on the same side. In the course of +another mile and a half he passed two islands covered with cottonwood, +box-alder, sweet-willow, and the usual undergrowth, like that of the +Whitebear islands. At thirteen and three quarter miles he came to the +mouth of a small creek on the left; within the following nine miles he +passed three timbered islands, and after making twenty-three and a +quarter miles from the lower camp, arrived at the point of woodland on +the north where the canoes were constructed. + +The day was fair and warm; the men worked very industriously, and were +enabled by the evening to lanch the boats, which now want only seats and +oars to be complete. One of them is twenty-five, the other thirty-three +feet in length and three feet wide. Captain Lewis walked out between +three and four miles over the rocky bluffs to a high situation, two +miles from the river, a little below Fort Mountain creek. The country +which he saw was in most parts level, but occasionally became varied by +gentle rises and descents, but with no timber except along the water. +From this position, the point at which the Missouri enters the first +chain of the Rocky mountains bore south 28° west about twenty-five +miles, according to our estimate. + +The northern extremity of that chain north 73° west at the distance of +eighty miles. + +To the same extremity of the second chain north 65° west one hundred and +fifty miles. + +To the most remote point of a third and continued chain of these +mountains north 50° west about two hundred miles. + +The direction of the first chain was from south 20° east to north 20° +west; of the second, from south 45° east to north 45° west; but the eye +could not reach their southern extremities, which most probably may be +traced to Mexico. In a course south 75° west, and at the distance of +eight miles is a mountain, which from its appearance we shall call Fort +Mountain. It is situated in the level plain, and forms nearly a square, +each side of which is a mile in extent. These sides, which are composed +of a yellow clay with no mixture of rock or stone whatever, rise +perpendicularly to the height of three hundred feet, where the top +becomes a level plain covered, as captain Lewis now observed, with a +tolerably fertile mould two feet thick, on which was a coat of grass +similar to that of the plain below: it has the appearance of being +perfectly inaccessible, and although the mounds near the falls somewhat +resemble it, yet none of them are so large. + + + + + CHAPTER XII. + + The party embark on board the canoes--Description of Smith's + river--Character of the country, &c.--Dearborne's river + described--Captain Clarke precedes the party for the purpose of + discovering the Indians of the Rocky mountains--Magnificent rocky + appearances on the borders of the river denominated the Gates of + the Rocky mountains--Captain Clarke arrives at the three forks of + the Missouri without overtaking the Indians--The party arrive at + the three forks, of which a particular and interesting description + is given. + + +Monday, July 15. We rose early, embarked all our baggage on board the +canoes, which though light in number are still heavily loaded, and at +ten o'clock set out on our journey. At the distance of three miles we +passed an island, just above which is a small creek coming in from the +left, which we called Fort Mountain creek, the channel of which is ten +yards wide but now perfectly dry. At six miles we came to an island +opposite to a bend towards the north side; and reached at seven and a +half miles the lower point of a woodland at the entrance of a beautiful +river, which in honour of the secretary of the navy we called Smith's +river. This stream falls into a bend on the south side of the Missouri, +and is eighty yards wide. As far as we could discern its course it wound +through a charming valley towards the southeast, in which many herds of +buffaloe were feeding, till at the distance of twenty five miles it +entered the Rocky mountains, and was lost from our view. After dining +near this place we proceeded on four and three quarter miles to the head +of an island; four and a quarter miles beyond which is a second island +on the left; three and a quarter miles further in a bend of the river +towards the north, is a wood where we encamped for the night, after +making nineteen and three quarter miles. + +We find the prickly pear, one of the greatest beauties as well as the +greatest inconveniences of the plains, now in full bloom. The sunflower +too, a plant common on every part of the Missouri from its entrance to +this place, is here very abundant and in bloom. The lambsquarter, +wild-cucumber, sandrush, and narrowdock are also common. Two elk, a +deer, and an otter, were our game to-day. + +The river has now become so much more crooked than below that we omit +taking all its short meanders, but note only its general course, and lay +down the small bends on our daily chart by the eye. The general width is +from one hundred to one hundred and fifty yards. Along the banks are +large beds of sand raised above the plains, and as they always appear on +the sides of the river opposite to the southwest exposure, seem +obviously brought there from the channel of the river by the incessant +winds from that quarter: we find also more timber than for a great +distance below the falls. + +Tuesday 16. There was a heavy dew last night. We soon passed about forty +little booths, formed of willow bushes as a shelter against the sun. +These seemed to have been deserted about ten days, and as we supposed by +the Snake Indians, or Shoshonees, whom we hope soon to meet, as they +appeared from the tracks to have a number of horses with them. At three +and three quarter miles we passed a creek or run in a bend on the left +side, and four miles further another run or small rivulet on the right. +After breakfasting on a buffaloe shot by one of the hunters, captain +Lewis resolved to go on ahead of the party to the point where the river +enters the Rocky mountains and make the necessary observations before +our arrival. He therefore set out with Drewyer and two of the sick men +to whom he supposed the walk would be useful: he travelled on the north +side of the river through a handsome level plain, which continued on the +opposite side also, and at the distance of eight miles passed a small +stream on which he observed a considerable quantity of the aspen tree. A +little before twelve o'clock he halted on a bend to the north in a low +ground well covered with timber, about four and a half miles below the +mountains, and obtained a meridian altitude, by which he found the +latitude was N. 46° 46' 50" 2"'. His route then lay through a high +waving plain to a rapid where the Missouri first leaves the Rocky +mountains, and here he encamped for the night. + +In the meantime we had proceeded after breakfast one mile to a bend in +the left, opposite to which was the frame of a large lodge situated in +the prairie, constructed like that already mentioned above the Whitebear +islands, but only sixty feet in diameter: round it were the remains of +about eighty leathern lodges, all which seemed to have been built during +the last autumn; within the next fifteen and a quarter miles we passed +ten islands, on the last of which we encamped near the right shore, +having made twenty-three miles. The next morning, + +Wednesday 17, we set out early, and at four miles distance joined +captain Lewis at foot of the rapids, and after breakfast began the +passage of them: some of the articles most liable to be injured by the +water were carried round. We then double manned the canoes, and with the +aid of the towing-line got them up without accident. For several miles +below the rapids the current of the Missouri becomes stronger as you +approach, and the spurs of the mountains advance towards the river, +which is deep and not more than seventy yards wide: at the rapids the +river is closely hemmed in on both sides by the hills, and foams for +half a mile over the rocks which obstruct its channel. The low grounds +are now not more than a few yards in width, but they furnish room for an +Indian road which winds under the hills on the north side of the river. +The general range of these hills is from southeast to northwest, and the +cliffs themselves are about eight hundred feet above the water, formed +almost entirely of a hard black granite, on which are scattered a few +dwarf pine and cedar trees. Immediately in the gap is a large rock four +hundred feet high, which on one side is washed by the Missouri, while on +its other sides a handsome little plain separates it from the +neighbouring mountains. It may be ascended with some difficulty nearly +to its summit, and affords a beautiful prospect of the plains below, in +which we could observe large herds of buffaloe. After ascending the +rapids for half a mile we came to a small island at the head of them, +which we called Pine island from a large pine tree at the lower end of +it, which is the first we have seen near the river for a great distance. +A mile beyond captain Lewis's camp we had a meridian altitude which gave +us the latitude of 46° 42' 14" 7"'. As the canoes were still heavily +loaded all those not employed in working them walked on shore. The +navigation is now very laborious. The river is deep but with little +current and from seventy to one hundred yards wide; the low grounds are +very narrow, with but little timber and that chiefly the aspen tree. The +cliffs are steep and hang over the river so much that often we could not +cross them, but were obliged to pass and repass from one side of the +river to the other in order to make our way. In some places the banks +are formed of rocks, of dark black granite rising perpendicularly to a +great height, through which the river seems in the progress of time to +have worn its channel. On these mountains we see more pine than usual, +but it is still in small quantities. Along the bottoms, which have a +covering of high grass, we observe the sunflower blooming in great +abundance. The Indians of the Missouri, and more especially those who do +not cultivate maize, make great use of the seed of this plant for bread +or in thickening their soup. They first parch and then pound it between +two stones until it is reduced to a fine meal. Sometimes they add a +portion of water, and drink it thus diluted: at other times they add a +sufficient proportion of marrow grease to reduce it to the consistency +of common dough and eat it in that manner. This last composition we +preferred to all the rest, and thought it at that time a very palatable +dish. There is however little of the broad-leafed cottonwood on this +side of the falls, much the greater part of what we see being of the +narrow-leafed species. There are also great quantities of red, purple, +yellow and black currants. The currants are very pleasant to the taste, +and much preferable to those of our common garden. The bush rises to the +height of six or eight feet; the stem simple, branching and erect. These +shrubs associate in corps either in upper or timbered lands near the +water courses. The leaf is peteolate, of a pale green, and in form +resembles the red currant so common in our gardens. The perianth of the +fruit is one leaved, five cleft, abbriviated and tubular. The corolla is +monopetallous, funnel-shaped, very long, and of a fine orange colour. +There are five stamens and one pistillum of the first, the filaments are +capillar, inserted in the corolla, equal and converging, the anther +ovate and incumbent. The germ of the second species is round, smooth, +inferior and pidicelled: the style long and thicker than the stamens, +simple, cylindrical, smooth and erect. It remains with the corolla until +the fruit is ripe, the stamen is simple and obtuse, and the fruit much +the size and shape of our common garden currants, growing like them in +clusters supported by a compound footstalk. The peduncles are longer in +this species, and the berries are more scattered. The fruit is not so +acid as the common currant, and has a more agreeable flavour. + +The other species differs in no respect from the yellow currant +excepting in the colour and flavour of the berries. + +The serviceberry differs in some points from that of the United States. +The bushes are small, sometimes not more than two feet high, and rarely +exceed eight inches. They are proportionably small in their stems, +growing very thickly, associated in clumps. The fruit is of the same +form, but for the most part larger and of a very dark purple. They are +now ripe and in great perfection. There are two species of gooseberry +here, but neither of them yet ripe: nor are the chokecherry, though in +great quantities. Besides there are also at that place the box alder, +red willow and a species of sumach. In the evening we saw some mountain +rams or big-horned animals, but no other game of any sort. After leaving +Pine island we passed a small run on the left, which is formed by a +large spring rising at the distance of half a mile under the mountain. +One mile and a half above the island is another, and two miles further a +third island, the river making small bends constantly to the north. From +this last island to a point of rocks on the south side the low grounds +become rather wider, and three quarters of a mile beyond these rocks, in +a bend on the north, we encamped opposite to a very high cliff, having +made during the day eleven and a half miles. + +Thursday 18. This morning early before our departure we saw a large herd +of the big-horned animals, who were bounding among the rocks in the +opposite cliff with great agility. These inaccessible spots secure them +from all their enemies, and the only danger is in wandering among these +precipices, where we should suppose it scarcely possible for any animal +to stand; a single false step would precipitate them at least five +hundred feet into the water. At one mile and a quarter we passed another +single cliff on the left; at the same distance beyond which is the mouth +of a large river emptying itself from the north. It is a handsome, bold, +and clear stream, eighty yards wide, that is nearly as broad as the +Missouri, with a rapid current over a bed of small smooth stones of +various figures. The water is extremely transparent, the low grounds are +narrow, but possess as much wood as those of the Missouri; and it has +every appearance of being navigable, though to what distance we cannot +ascertain, as the country which it waters, is broken and mountainous. In +honour of the secretary at war we called it Dearborn's river. Being now +very anxious to meet with the Shoshonees or Snake Indians, for the +purpose of obtaining the necessary information of our route, as well as +to procure horses, it was thought best for one of us to go forward with +a small party and endeavour to discover them, before the daily discharge +of our guns, which is necessary for our subsistence, should give them +notice of our approach: if by an accident they hear us, they will most +probably retreat to the mountains, mistaking us for their enemies who +usually attack them on this side. Accordingly captain Clarke set out +with three men, and followed the course of the river on the north side; +but the hills were so steep at first that he was not able to go much +faster than ourselves. In the evening however he cut off many miles of +the circuitous course of the river, by crossing a mountain over which he +found a wide Indian road which in many places seems to have been cut or +dug down in the earth. He passed also two branches of a stream which he +called Ordway's creek, where he saw a number of beaver-dams extending in +close succession towards the mountains as far as he could distinguish: +on the cliffs were many of the big-horned animals. After crossing this +mountain he encamped near a small stream of running water, having +travelled twenty miles. + +On leaving Dearborn's river we passed at three and a half miles a small +creek, and at six beyond it an island on the north side of the river, +which makes within that distance many small bends. At two and a half +miles further is another island: three quarters of a mile beyond this is +a small creek on the north side. At a mile and a half above the creek is +a much larger stream thirty yards wide, and discharging itself with a +bold current on the north side: the banks are low, and the bed formed of +stones altogether. To this stream we gave the name of Ordway's creek, +after serjeant John Ordway. At two miles beyond this the valley widens: +we passed several bends of the river, and encamped in the centre of one +on the south, having made twenty-one miles. Here we found a small grove +of the narrow-leafed cottonwood, there being no longer any of the +broad-leafed kind since we entered the mountains. The water of these +rivulets which come down from the mountains is very cold, pure, and well +tasted. Along their banks as well as on the Missouri the aspen is very +common, but of a small kind. The river is somewhat wider than we found +it yesterday; the hills more distant from the river and not so high; +there are some pines on the mountains, but they are principally confined +to the upper regions of them: the low grounds are still narrower and +have little or no timber. The soil near the river is good, and produces +a luxuriant growth of grass and weeds; among these productions the +sunflower holds a very distinguished place. For several days past we +have observed a species of flax in the low grounds, the leaf-stem and +pericarp of which resemble those of the flax commonly cultivated in the +United States: the stem rises to the height of two and a half or three +feet, and spring to the number of eight or ten from the same root, with +a strong thick bark apparently well calculated for use: the root seems +to be perennial, and it is probable that the cutting of the stems may +not at all injure it, for although the seeds are not yet ripe, there are +young suckers shooting up from the root, whence we may infer that the +stems which are fully grown and in the proper stage of vegetation to +produce the best flax, are not essential to the preservation or support +of the root, a circumstance which would render it a most valuable plant. +To-day we have met with a second species of flax smaller than the first, +as it seldom obtains a greater height than nine or twelve inches: the +leaf and stem resemble those of the species just mentioned, except that +the latter is rarely branched, and bears a single monopetalous +bell-shaped blue flower, suspended with its limb downwards. We saw +several herds of the big-horn, but they were in the cliffs beyond our +reach. We killed an elk this morning and found part of a deer which had +been left for us by captain Clarke. He pursued his route, + +Friday, 19, early in the morning, and soon passed the remains of several +Indian camps formed of willow brush, which seemed to have been deserted +this spring. At the same time he observed that the pine trees had been +stripped of their bark about the same season, which our Indian woman say +her countrymen do in order to obtain the sap and the soft parts of the +wood and bark for food. About eleven o'clock he met a herd of elk and +killed two of them, but such was the want of wood in the neighbourhood +that he was unable to procure enough to make a fire, and he was +therefore obliged to substitute the dung of the buffaloe, with which he +cooked his breakfast. They then resumed their course along an old Indian +road. In the afternoon they reached a handsome valley watered by a large +creek, both of which extend a considerable distance into the mountain: +this they crossed, and during the evening travelled over a mountainous +country covered with sharp fragments of flint-rock: these bruised and +cut their feet very much, but were scarcely less troublesome than the +prickly pear of the open plains, which have now become so abundant that +it is impossible to avoid them, and the thorns are so strong that they +pierce a double soal of dressed deer skin: the best resource against +them is a soal of buffaloe hide in parchment. At night they reached the +river much fatigued, having passed two mountains in the course of the +day and having travelled thirty miles. Captain Clarke's first employment +on lighting a fire was to extract from his feet the briars, which he +found seventeen in number. + +In the meantime we proceeded on very well, though the water appears to +increase in rapidity as we advance: the current has indeed been strong +during the day and obstructed by some rapids, which are not however much +broken by rocks, and are perfectly safe: the river is deep, and its +general width is from one hundred to one hundred and fifty yards wide. +For more than thirteen miles we went along the numerous bends of the +river and then reached two small islands; three and three quarter miles +beyond which is a small creek in a bend to the left, above a small +island on the right side of the river. We were regaled about ten o'clock +P.M. with a thunder storm of rain and hail which lasted for an hour, but +during the day in this confined valley, through which we are passing, +the heat is almost insupportable; yet whenever we obtain a glimpse of +the lofty tops of the mountains we are tantalized with a view of the +snow. These mountains have their sides and summits partially varied with +little copses of pine, cedar, and balsam fir. A mile and a half beyond +this creek the rocks approach the river on both sides, forming a most +sublime and extraordinary spectacle. For five and three quarter miles +these rocks rise perpendicularly from the water's edge to the height of +nearly twelve hundred feet. They are composed of a black granite near +its base, but from its lighter colour above and from the fragments we +suppose the upper part to be flint of a yellowish brown and cream +colour. Nothing can be imagined more tremendous than the frowning +darkness of these rocks, which project over the river and menace us with +destruction. The river, of one hundred and fifty yards in width, seems +to have forced its channel down this solid mass, but so reluctantly has +it given way that during the whole distance the water is very deep even +at the edges, and for the first three miles there is not a spot except +one of a few yards, in which a man could stand between the water and the +towering perpendicular of the mountain: the convulsion of the passage +must have been terrible, since at its outlet there are vast columns of +rock torn from the mountain which are strewed on both sides of the +river, the trophies as it were of the victory. Several fine springs +burst out from the chasms of the rock, and contribute to increase the +river, which has now a strong current, but very fortunately we are able +to overcome it with our oars, since it would be impossible to use +either the cord or the pole. We were obliged to go on some time after +dark, not being able to find a spot large enough to encamp on, but at +length about two miles above a small inland in the middle of the river +we met with a spot on the left side, where we procured plenty of +lightwood and pitchpine. This extraordinary range of rocks we called the +Gates of the Rocky mountains. We had made twenty-two miles; and four and +a quarter miles from the entrance of the gates. The mountains are higher +to-day than they were yesterday. We saw some big-horns, a few antelopes +and beaver, but since entering the mountains have found no buffaloe: the +otter are however in great plenty: the musquitoes have become less +troublesome than they were. + +Saturday 20. By employing the towrope whenever the banks permitted the +use of it, the river being too deep for the pole, we were enabled to +overcome the current which is still strong. At the distance of half a +mile we came to a high rock in a bend to the left in the Gates. Here the +perpendicular rocks cease, the hills retire from the river, and the +vallies suddenly widen to a greater extent than they have been since we +entered the mountains. At this place was some scattered timber, +consisting of the narrow-leafed cottonwood, the aspen, and pine. There +are also vast quantities of gooseberries, serviceberries, and several +species of currant, among which is one of a black colour, the flavour of +which is preferable to that of the yellow, and would be deemed superior +to that of any currant in the United States. We here killed an elk which +was a pleasant addition to our stock of food. At a mile from the Gates, +a large creek comes down from the mountains and empties itself behind an +island in the middle of a bend to the north. To this stream which is +fifteen yards wide we gave the name of Potts's creek, after John Potts, +one of our men. Up this valley about seven miles we discovered a great +smoke, as if the whole country had been set on fire; but were at a loss +to decide whether it had been done accidentally by captain Clarke's +party, or by the Indians as a signal on their observing us. We +afterwards learnt that this last was the fact; for they had heard a gun +fired by one of captain Clarke's men, and believing that their enemies +were approaching had fled into the mountains, first setting fire to the +plains as a warning to their countrymen. We continued our course along +several islands, and having made in the course of the day fifteen miles, +encamped just above an island, at a spring on a high bank on the left +side of the river. In the latter part of the evening we had passed +through a low range of mountains, and the country became more open, +though still unbroken and without timber, and the lowlands not very +extensive: and just above our camp the river is again closed in by the +mountains. We found on the banks an elk which captain Clarke had left +us, with a note mentioning that he should pass the mountains just above +us and wait our arrival at some convenient place. We saw but could not +procure some redheaded ducks and sandhill cranes along the sides of the +river, and a woodpecker about the size of the lark-woodpecker, which +seems to be a distinct species: it is as black as a crow with a long +tail, and flies like a jaybird. The whole country is so infested by the +prickly pear that we could scarcely find room to lie down at our camp. + +Captain Clarke on setting out this morning had gone through the valley +about six miles to the right of the river. He soon fell into an old +Indian road which he pursued till he reached the Missouri, at the +distance of eighteen miles from his last encampment, just above the +entrance of a large creek, which we afterwards called Whiteearth creek. +Here he found his party so much cut and pierced with the sharp flint and +the prickly pear that he proceeded only a small distance further, and +then halted to wait for us. Along his track he had taken the precaution +to strew signals, such as pieces of cloth, paper and linen, to prove to +the Indians, if by accident they met his track, that we were white men. +But he observed a smoke some distance ahead, and concluded that the +whole country had now taken the alarm. + +Sunday 21. On leaving our camp we passed an island at half a mile, and +reached at one mile a bad rapid at the place where the river leaves the +mountain: here the cliffs are high and covered with fragments of broken +rocks, the current is also strong, but although more rapid the river is +wider and shallower, so that we are able to use the pole occasionally, +though we principally depend on the towline. On leaving this rapid which +is about half a mile in extent, the country opens on each side; the +hills become lower; at one mile is a large island on the left side, and +four and a half beyond it a large and bold creek twenty-eight yards +wide, coming in from the north, where it waters a handsome valley: we +called it Pryor's creek after one of the sergeants, John Pryor. At a +mile above this creek on the left side of the Missouri we obtained a +meridian altitude, which gave 46° 10' 32" 9"' as the latitude of the +place. For the following four miles, the country, like that through +which we passed during the rest of the day, is rough and mountainous as +we found it yesterday; but at the distance of twelve miles, we came +towards evening into a beautiful plain ten or twelve miles wide and +extending as far the eye could reach. This plain or rather valley is +bounded by two nearly parallel ranges of high mountains whose summits +are partially covered with snow, below which the pine is scattered along +the sides down to the plain in some places, though the greater part of +their surface has no timber and exhibits only a barren soil with no +covering except dry parched grass or black rugged rocks. On entering the +valley the river assumes a totally different aspect; it spreads to more +than a mile in width, and though more rapid than before, is shallow +enough in almost every part for the use of the pole, while its bed is +formed of smooth stones and some large rocks, as it has been indeed +since we entered the mountains: it is also divided by a number of +islands some of which are large near the northern shore. The soil of the +valley is a rich black loam apparently very fertile, and covered with a +fine green grass about eighteen inches or two feet in height; while that +of the high grounds is perfectly dry and seems scorched by the sun. The +timber though still scarce is in greater quantities in this valley than +we have seen it since entering the mountains, and seems to prefer the +borders of the small creeks to the banks of the river itself. We +advanced three and a half miles in this valley and encamped on the left +side, having made in all fifteen and a half miles. + +Our only large game to-day was one deer. We saw however two pheasants of +a dark brown colour, much larger than the same species of bird in the +United States. In the morning too, we saw three swans which, like the +geese, have not yet recovered the feathers of the wing, and were unable +to fly: we killed two of them, and the third escaped by diving and +passing down the current. These are the first we have seen on the river +for a great distance, and as they had no young with them, we presume +that they do not breed in this neighbourhood. Of the geese we daily see +great numbers, with their young perfectly feathered except on the wings, +where both young and old are deficient; the first are very fine food, +but the old ones are poor and unfit for use. Several of the large brown +or sandhill crane are feeding in the low grounds on the grass which +forms their principal food. The young crane cannot fly at this season: +they are as large as a turkey, of a bright reddish bay colour. Since the +river has become shallow we have caught a number of trout to-day, and a +fish, white on the belly and sides, but of a bluish cast on the back, +and a long pointed mouth opening somewhat like that of the shad. + +This morning captain Clarke wishing to hunt but fearful of alarming the +Indians, went up the river for three miles, when finding neither any of +them nor of their recent tracks returned, and then his little party +separated to look for game. They killed two bucks and a doe, and a young +curlew nearly feathered: in the evening they found the musquitoes as +troublesome as we did: these animals attack us as soon as the labours +and fatigues of the day require some rest, and annoy us till several +hours after dark, when the coldness of the air obliges them to +disappear; but such is their persecution that were it not for our biers +we should obtain no repose. + +Monday, 22. We set out at an early hour. The river being divided into so +many channels by both large and small islands, that it was impossible to +lay it down accurately by following in a canoe any single channel, +captain Lewis walked on shore, took the general courses of the river, +and from the rising grounds laid down the situation of the islands and +channels, which he was enabled to do with perfect accuracy, the view not +being obstructed by much timber. At one mile and a quarter we passed an +island somewhat larger than the rest, and four miles further reached the +upper end of another, on which we breakfasted. This is a large island +forming in the middle of a bend to the north a level fertile plain ten +feet above the surface of the water and never overflowed. Here we found +great quantities of a small onion about the size of a musket ball, +though some were larger; it is white, crisp, and as well flavoured as +any of our garden onions; the seed is just ripening, and as the plant +bears a large quantity to the square foot, and stands the rigours of the +climate, it will no doubt be an acquisition to settlers. From this +production we called it Onion island. During the next seven and three +quarter miles we passed several long circular bends, and a number of +large and small islands which divide the river into many channels, and +then reached the mouth of a creek on the north side. It is composed of +three creeks which unite in a handsome valley about four miles before +they discharge themselves into the Missouri, where it is about fifteen +feet wide and eight feet deep, with clear transparent water. Here we +halted for dinner, but as the canoes took different channels in +ascending it was some time before they all joined. Here we were +delighted to find that the Indian woman recognizes the country; she +tells us that to this creek her countrymen make excursions to procure a +white paint on its banks, and we therefore call it Whiteearth creek. She +says also that the three forks of the Missouri are at no great distance, +a piece of intelligence which has cheered the spirits of us all, as we +hope soon to reach the head of that river. This is the warmest day +except one we have experienced this summer. In the shade the mercury +stood at 80° above 0, which is the second time it has reached that +height during this season. We encamped on an island after making +nineteen and three quarter miles. + +In the course of the day we saw many geese, cranes, small birds common +to the plains, and a few pheasants: we also observed a small plover or +curlew of a brown colour, about the size of the yellow-legged plover or +jack curlew, but of a different species. It first appeared near the +mouth of Smith's river, but is so shy and vigilant that we were unable +to shoot it. Both the broad and narrow-leafed willow continue, though +the sweet willow has become very scarce. The rosebush, small +honeysuckle, the pulpy-leafed thorn, southern wood, sage and box-alder, +narrow-leafed cottonwood, redwood, and a species of sumach, are all +abundant. So too are the red and black gooseberries, serviceberries, +chokecherry, and the black, red, yellow, and purple currant, which last +seems to be a favourite food of the bear. Before encamping we landed and +took on board captain Clarke with the meat he had collected during this +day's hunt, which consisted of one deer and an elk: we had ourselves +shot a deer and an antelope. The musquitoes and gnats were unusually +fierce this evening. + +Tuesday, 23. Captain Clarke again proceeded with four men along the +right bank. During the whole day the river divided by a number of +islands, which spread it out sometimes to the distance of three miles: +the current is very rapid and has many ripples; and the bed formed of +gravel and smooth stones. The banks along the low grounds are of a rich +loam, followed occasionally by low bluffs of yellow and red clay, with a +hard red slatestone intermixed. The low grounds are wide, and have very +little timber but a thick underbrush of willow, and rose and currant +bushes: these are succeeded by high plains extending on each side to the +base of the mountains, which lie parallel to the river about eight or +twelve miles apart, and are high and rocky, with some small pine and +cedar interspersed on them. At the distance of seven miles a creek +twenty yards wide, after meandering through a beautiful low ground on +the left for several miles parallel to the river, empties itself near a +cluster of small islands: the stream we called Whitehouse creek after +Joseph Whitehouse one of the party, and the islands from their number +received the name of the "Ten islands." About ten o'clock we came up +with Drewyer, who had gone out to hunt yesterday, and not being able to +find our encampment had staid out all night: he now supplied us with +five deer. Three and a quarter miles beyond Whitehouse creek we came +to the lower point of an island where the river is three hundred yards +wide, and continued along it for one mile and a quarter, and then passed +a second island just above it. We halted rather early for dinner in +order to dry some part of the baggage which had been wet in the canoes: +we then proceeded, and at five and a half miles had passed two small +islands. Within the next three miles we came to a large island, which +from its figure we called Broad island. From that place we made three +and a half miles, and encamped on an island to the left, opposite to +a much larger one on the right. Our journey to-day was twenty-two and +a quarter miles, the greater part of which was made by means of our +poles and cords, the use of which the banks much favoured. During the +whole time we had the small flags hoisted in the canoes to apprise the +Indians, if there were any in the neighbourhood, of our being white men +and their friends; but we were not so fortunate as to discover any of +them. Along the shores we saw great quantities of the common thistle, +and procured a further supply of wild onions and a species of garlic +growing on the highlands, which is now green and in bloom: it has a +flat leaf, and is strong, tough, and disagreeable. There was also much +of the wild flax, of which we now obtained some ripe seed, as well as +some bullrush and cattail flag. Among the animals we met with a black +snake about two feet long, with the belly as dark as any other part +of the body, which was perfectly black, and which had one hundred and +twenty-eight scuta on the belly and sixty-three on the tail: we also saw +antelopes, crane, geese, ducks, beaver, and otter; and took up four deer +which had been left on the water side by captain Clarke. He had pursued +all day an Indian road on the right side of the river, and encamped late +in the evening at the distance of twenty-five miles from our camp of +last night. In the course of his walk he met besides deer a number of +antelopes and a herd of elk, but all the tracks of Indians, though +numerous, were of an old date. + +Wednesday, 24. We proceeded for four and a quarter miles along several +islands to a small run, just above which the low bluffs touch the river. +Within three and a half miles further we came to a small island on the +north, and a remarkable bluff composed of earth of a crimson colour, +intermixed with stratas of slate, either black or of a red resembling +brick. The following six and three quarter miles brought us to an +assemblage of islands, having passed four at different distances; and +within the next five miles we met the same number of islands, and +encamped on the north after making nineteen and a half miles. The +current of the river was strong and obstructed, as indeed it has been +for some days by small rapids or ripples which descend from one to three +feet in the course of one hundred and fifty yards, but they are rarely +incommoded by any fixed rocks, and therefore, though the water is rapid, +the passage is not attended with danger. The valley through which the +river passes is like that of yesterday; the nearest hills generally +concealing the most distant from us; but when we obtain a view of them +they present themselves in amphitheatre, rising above each other as they +recede from the river till the most remote are covered with snow. We saw +many otter and beaver to-day: the latter seem to contribute very much to +the number of islands and the widening of the river. They begin by +damming up the small channels of about twenty yards between the islands; +this obliges the river to seek another outlet, and as soon as this is +effected the channel stopped by the beaver becomes filled with mud and +sand. The industrious animal is then driven to another channel which +soon shares the same fate, till the river spreads on all sides, and cuts +the projecting points of the land into islands. We killed a deer and saw +great numbers of antelopes, cranes, some geese, and a few redheaded +ducks. The small birds of the plains and the curlew are still abundant: +we saw but could not come within gunshot of a large bear. There is much +of the track of elk but none of the animals themselves, and from the +appearance of bones and old excrement, we suppose that buffaloe have +sometimes strayed into the valley, though we have as yet seen no recent +sign of them. Along the water are a number of snakes, some of a brown +uniform colour, others black, and a third speckled on the abdomen, and +striped with black and a brownish yellow in the back and sides. The +first, which are the largest, are about four feet long; the second is of +the kind mentioned yesterday, and the third resembles in size and +appearance the garter-snake of the United States. On examining the teeth +of all these several kinds we found them free from poison: they are fond +of the water, in which they take shelter on being pursued. The +mosquitoes, gnats, and prickly pear, our three persecutors, still +continue with us, and joined with the labour of working the canoes have +fatigued us all excessively. Captain Clarke continued along the Indian +road which led him up a creek. About ten o'clock he saw at the distance +of six miles a horse feeding in the plains. He went towards him, but the +animal was so wild that he could not get within several hundred paces of +him: he then turned obliquely to the river where he killed a deer and +dined, having passed in this valley five handsome streams, only one of +which had any timber; another had some willows, and was very much dammed +up by the beaver. After dinner he continued his route along the river +and encamped at the distance of thirty miles. As he went along he saw +many tracks of Indians, but none of recent date. The next morning, + +Thursday, 25, at the distance of a few miles he arrived at the three +forks of the Missouri. Here he found that the plains had been recently +burnt on the north side, and saw the track of a horse which seemed to +have passed about four or five days since. After breakfast he examined +the rivers, and finding that the north branch, although not larger, +contained more water than the middle branch, and bore more to the +westward, he determined to ascend it. He therefore left a note informing +captain Lewis of his intention, and then went up that stream on the +north side for about twenty-five miles. Here Chaboneau was unable to +proceed any further, and the party therefore encamped, all of them much +fatigued, their feet blistered and wounded by the prickly pear. + +In the meantime we left our camp, and proceeded on very well, though the +water is still rapid and has some occasional ripples. The country is +much like that of yesterday: there are however fewer islands, for we +passed only two. Behind one of them is a large creek twenty-five yards +wide, to which we gave the name of Gass's creek, from one of our +serjeants, Patrick Gass: it is formed by the union of five streams, +which descend from the mountains and join in the plain near the river. +On this island we saw a large brown bear, but he retreated to the shore +and ran off before we could approach him. These animals seem more shy +than they were below the mountains. The antelopes have again collected +in small herds, composed of several females with their young, attended +by one or two males, though some of the males are still solitary or +wander in parties of two over the plains, which the antelope invariably +prefers to the woodlands, and to which it always retreats if by accident +it is found straggling in the hills, confiding no doubt in its wonderful +fleetness. We also killed a few young geese, but as this game is small +and very incompetent to the subsistence of the party, we have forbidden +the men any longer to waste their ammunition on them. About four and a +half miles above Gass's creek, the valley in which we have been +travelling ceases, the high craggy cliffs again approach the river, +which now enters or rather leaves what appears to be a second great +chain of the Rocky mountains. About a mile after entering these hills or +low mountains we passed a number of fine bold springs, which burst out +near the edge of the river under the cliffs on the left, and furnished a +fine freestone water: near these we met with two of the worst rapids we +have seen since entering the mountains; a ridge of sharp pointed rocks +stretching across the river, leaving but small and dangerous channels +for the navigation. The cliffs are of a lighter colour than those we +have already passed, and in the bed of the river is some limestone which +is small and worn smooth, and seems to have been brought down by the +current. We went about a mile further and encamped under a high bluff on +the right opposite to a cliff of rocks, having made sixteen miles. + +All these cliffs appeared to have been undermined by the water at some +period, and fallen down from the hills on their sides, the stratas of +rock sometimes lying with their edges upwards, others not detached from +the hills are depressed obliquely on the side next the river as if they +had sunk to fill up the cavity formed by the washing of the river. + +In the open places among the rocky cliffs are two kinds of gooseberry, +one yellow and the other red. The former species was observed for the +first time near the falls, the latter differs from it in no respect +except in colour and in being of a larger size; both have a sweet +flavour, and are rather indifferent fruit. + +Friday 26. We again found the current strong and the ripples frequent: +these we were obliged to overcome by means of the cord and the pole, the +oar being scarcely ever used except in crossing to take advantage of the +shore. Within three and three quarter miles we passed seven small +islands and reached the mouth of a large creek which empties itself in +the centre of a bend on the left side: it is a bold running stream +fifteen yards wide, and received the name of Howard creek after John P. +Howard one of the party. One mile beyond it is a small run which falls +in on the same side just above a rocky cliff. Here the mountains recede +from the river, and the valley widens to the extent of several miles. +The river now becomes crowded with islands of which we passed ten in the +next thirteen and three quarter miles, then at the distance of eighteen +miles we encamped on the left shore near a rock in the centre of a bend +towards the left, and opposite to two more islands. This valley has wide +low grounds covered with high grass, and in many with a fine turf of +green sward. The soil of the highlands is thin and meagre, without any +covering except a low sedge and a dry kind of grass which is almost as +inconvenient as the prickly pear. The seeds of it are armed with a long +twisted hard beard at their upper extremity, while the lower part is a +sharp firm point, beset at its base with little stiff bristles, with the +points in a direction contrary to the subulate point to which they +answer as a barb. We see also another species of prickly pear. It is of +a globular form, composed of an assemblage of little conic leaves +springing from a common root to which their small points are attached +as a common centre, and the base of the cone forms the apex of the leaf +which is garnished with a circular range of sharp thorns like the +cochineal plant, and quite as stiff and even more keen than those of the +common flat-leafed species. Between the hills the river had been +confined within one hundred and fifty or two hundred yards, but in the +valley it widens to two hundred or two hundred and fifty yards, and +sometimes is spread by its numerous islands to the distance of three +quarters of a mile. The banks are low, but the river never overflows +them. On entering the valley we again saw the snow-clad mountains before +us, but the appearance of the hills as well as of the timber near us is +much as heretofore. + +Finding Chaboneau unable to proceed captain Clarke left him with one of +the men, and accompanied by the other went up the river about twelve +miles to the top of a mountain. Here he had an extensive view of the +river valley upwards and saw a large creek which flowed in on the right +side. He however discovered no fresh sign of the Indians, and therefore +determined to examine the middle branch and join us by the time we +reached the forks: he descended the mountain by an Indian path which +wound through a deep valley, and at length reached a fine cold spring. +The day had been very warm, the path unshaded by timber, and his thirst +was excessive; he was therefore tempted to drink: but although he took +the precaution of previously wetting his head, feet and hands, he soon +found himself very unwell; he continued his route, and after resting +with Chaboneau at his camp, resumed his march across the north fork near +a large island. The first part was knee deep, but on the other side of +the island the water came to their waists and was so rapid that +Chaboneau was on the point of being swept away, and not being able to +swim would have perished if captain Clarke had not rescued him. While +crossing the island they killed two brown bear and saw great quantities +of beaver. He then went on to a small river which falls into the north +fork some miles above its junction with the two others: here, finding +himself grow more unwell, he halted for the night at the distance of +four miles from his last encampment. + +Saturday 27. We proceeded on but slowly, the current being still so +rapid as to require the utmost exertions of us all to advance, and the +men are losing their strength fast in consequence of their constant +efforts. At half a mile we passed an island, and a mile and a quarter +further again entered a ridge of hills which now approach the river with +cliffs apparently sinking like those of yesterday. They are composed of +a solid limestone of a light lead colour when exposed to the air, though +when freshly broken it is of a deep blue, and of an excellent quality +and very fine grain. On these cliffs were numbers of the bighorn. At two +and a half miles we reached the centre of a bend towards the south +passing a small island, and at one mile and a quarter beyond this +reached about nine in the morning the mouth of a river seventy yards +wide, which falls in from the southeast. Here the country suddenly opens +into extensive and beautiful meadows and plains, surrounded on every +side with distant and lofty mountains. Captain Lewis went up this stream +for about half a mile, and from the height of a limestone cliff could +observe its course about seven miles, and the three forks of the +Missouri, of which this river is one. Its extreme point bore S. 65° E. +and during the seven miles it passes through a green extensive meadow of +fine grass dividing itself into several streams, the largest passing +near the ridge of hills on which he stood. On the right side of the +Missouri a high, wide and extensive plain succeeds to this low meadow +which reaches the hills. In the meadow a large spring rises about a +quarter of a mile from this Southeast fork, into which it discharges +itself on the right side about four hundred paces from where he stood. +Between the southeast and middle forks a distant range of snow-topped +mountains spread from east to south above the irregular broken hills +nearer to this spot: the middle and southwest forks unite at half a mile +above the entrance of the southeast fork. The extreme point at which the +former can be seen, bears S. 15° E. and at the distance of fourteen +miles, where it turns to the right round the point of a high plain and +disappears from the view. Its low grounds are several miles in width, +forming a smooth and beautiful green meadow, and like the southeast fork +it divides itself into several streams. Between these two forks and near +their junction with that from the southwest, is a position admirably +well calculated for a fort. It is a limestone rock of an oblong form, +rising from the plain perpendicularly to the height of twenty-five feet +on three of its sides; the fourth towards the middle fork being a +gradual ascent and covered with a fine green sward, as is also the top +which is level and contains about two acres. An extensive plain lies +between the middle and southwest forks, the last of which after watering +a country like that of the other two branches, disappears about twelve +miles off, at a point bearing south 30° west. It is also more divided +and serpentine in its course than the other two, and possesses more +timber in its meadows. This timber consists almost exclusively of the +narrow-leafed cottonwood, with an inter-mixture of box alder and +sweet-willow, the underbrush being thick and like that of the Missouri +lower down. A range of high mountains partially covered with snow is +seen at a considerable distance running from south to west, and nearly +all around us are broken ridges of country like that below, through +which those united streams appear to have forced their passage: after +observing the country captain Lewis descended to breakfast. We then left +the mouth of the southeast fork, to which in honour of the secretary of +the treasury we called Gallatin's river, and at the distance of half a +mile reached the confluence of the southwest and middle branch of the +Missouri. Here we found the letter from captain Clarke, and as we +agreed with him that the direction of the southwest fork gave it a +decided preference over the others, we ascended that branch of the river +for a mile, and encamped in a level handsome plain on the left: having +advanced only seven miles. Here we resolved to wait the return of +captain Clarke, and in the meantime make the necessary celestial +observations, as this seems an essential point in the geography of the +western world, and also to recruit the men and air the baggage. It was +accordingly all unloaded and stowed away on shore. Near the three forks +we saw many collections of the mud-nests of the small martin attached to +the smooth faces of the limestone rock, where they were sheltered by +projections of the rock above it: and in the meadows were numbers of the +duck or mallard with their young, who are now nearly grown. The hunters +returned towards evening with six deer, three otter and a muskrat; and +had seen great numbers of antelopes, and much sign of the beaver and +elk. + +During all last night captain Clarke had a high fever and chills +accompanied with great pain. He however pursued his route eight miles to +the middle branch, where not finding any fresh Indian track he came down +it and joined us about three o'clock, very much exhausted with fatigue +and the violence of his fever. Believing himself bilious he took a dose +of Rush's pills, which we have always found sovereign in such cases, and +bathing the lower extremities in warm water. + +We are now very anxious to see the Snake Indians. After advancing for +several hundred miles into this wild and mountainous country, we may +soon expect that the game will abandon us. With no information of the +route we may be unable to find a passage across the mountains when we +reach the head of the river, at least such a one as will lead us to the +Columbia, and even were we so fortunate as to find a branch of that +river, the timber which we have hitherto seen in these mountains does +not promise us any fit to make canoes, so that our chief dependence is +on meeting some tribe from whom we may procure horses. Our consolation +is, that this southwest branch can scarcely head with any other river +than the Columbia, and that if any nation of Indians can live in the +mountains we are able to endure as much as they, and have even better +means of procuring subsistence. + + + + + CHAPTER XIII. + + The name of the Missouri changed, as the river now divides itself + into three forks, one of which is called after Jefferson, the other + Madison, and the other after Gallatin--their general character--the + party ascend the Jefferson branch--description of the river + Philosophy which enters into the Jefferson--captain Lewis and a + small party go in advance in search of the Shoshonees--description + of the country, &c. bordering on the river--captain Lewis still + preceding the main party in quest of the Shoshonees--a singular + accident which prevented captain Clarke from following captain + Lewis's advice, and ascending the middle fork of the + river--description of Philanthropy river, another stream running + into the Jefferson--captain Lewis and a small party having been + unsuccessful in their first attempt, set off a second time in quest + of the Shoshonees. + + +Sunday, July 28. Captain Clarke continued very unwell during the night, +but was somewhat relieved this morning. On examining the two streams it +became difficult to decide which was the larger or the real Missouri; +they are each ninety yards wide and so perfectly similar in character +and appearance that they seem to have been formed in the same mould. We +were therefore induced to discontinue the name of Missouri, and gave to +the southwest branch the name of Jefferson in honour of the president of +the United States, and the projector of the enterprise: and called the +middle branch Madison, after James Madison secretary of state. These +two, as well as Gallatin river, run with great velocity and throw out +large bodies of water. Gallatin river is however the most rapid of the +three, and though not quite as deep, yet navigable for a considerable +distance. Madison river though much less rapid than the Gallatin, is +somewhat more rapid than the Jefferson; the beds of all of them are +formed of smooth pebble and gravel, and the waters are perfectly +transparent. The timber in the neighbourhood would be sufficient for +the ordinary uses of an establishment, which, however, it would be +adviseable to build of brick, as the earth appears calculated for that +purpose, and along the shores are some bars of fine pure sand. The +greater part of the men, having yesterday put their deer skins in water, +were this day engaged in dressing them, for the purpose of making +clothing. The weather was very warm, the thermometer in the afternoon +was at 90° above 0, and the musquitoes more than usually inconvenient: +we were, however, relieved from them by a high wind from the southwest, +which came on at four o'clock, bringing a storm of thunder and +lightning, attended by refreshing showers, which continued till after +dark. In the evening the hunters returned with eight deer and two elk; +and the party who had been sent up the Gallatin, reported that after +passing the point, where it escaped from captain* Lewis's view +yesterday, it turned more towards the east, as far as they could discern +the opening of the mountains, formed by the valley which bordered it. +The low grounds were still wide but not so extensive as near its mouth, +and though the stream is rapid and much divided by islands, it is still +sufficiently deep for navigation with canoes. The low grounds, although +not more than eight or nine feet above the water, seem never to be +overflowed, except a part on the west side of the middle fork, which is +stony and seems occasionally inundated, are furnished with great +quantities of small fruit, such as currants and gooseberries: among the +last of which is a black species, which we observe not only in the +meadows but along the mountain rivulets. From the same root rise a +number of stems to the height of five or six feet, some of them +particularly branched and all reclining. The berry is attached by a long +peduncle to the stem, from which they hang of a smooth ovate form, as +large as the common garden gooseberry, and as black as jet, though the +pulp is of a bright crimson colour. It is extremely acid: the form of +the leaf resembles that of the common gooseberry, though larger. The +stem is covered with very sharp thorns or briars: the grass too is very +luxuriant and would yield fine hay in parcels of several acres. The +sand-rushes will grow in many places as high as a man's breast, and as +thick as stalks of wheat; it would supply the best food during the +winter to cattle of any trading or military post. + +Sacajawea, our Indian woman, informs us that we are encamped on the +precise spot where her countrymen, the Snake Indians, had their huts +five years ago, when the Minnetarees of Knife river first came in sight +of them, and from which they hastily retreated three miles up the +Jefferson, and concealed themselves in the woods. The Minnetarees, +however, pursued and attacked them, killed four men, as many women, and +a number of boys; and made prisoners of four other boys, and all the +females, of whom Sacajawea was one: she does not, however, show any +distress at these recollections, nor any joy at the prospect of being +restored to her country; for she seems to possess the folly or the +philosophy of not suffering her feelings to extend beyond the anxiety of +having plenty to eat and a few trinkets to wear. + +Monday 29. This morning the hunters brought in some fat deer of the +long-tailed red kind, which are quite as large as those of the United +States, and are, indeed, the only kind we have found at this place: +there are numbers of the sandhill cranes feeding in the meadows; we +caught a young one of the same colour as the red deer, which, though it +had nearly attained its full growth could not fly; it is very fierce and +strikes a severe blow with its beak. The kingfisher has become quite +common on this side of the falls: but we have seen none of the summer +duck since leaving that place. The mallard duck, which we saw for the +first time on the 20th instant, with their young, are now abundant, +though they do not breed on the Missouri, below the mountains. The small +birds already described are also abundant in the plains; here too, are +great quantities of grasshoppers or crickets; and among other animals, a +large ant with a reddish brown body and legs, and a black head and +abdomen, who build little cones of gravel, ten or twelve inches high, +without a mixture of sticks, and but little earth. In the river we see a +great abundance of fish, but we cannot tempt them to bite by any thing +on our hooks. The whole party have been engaged in dressing skins, and +making them into moccasins and leggings. Captain Clarke's fever has +almost left him, but he still remains very languid and has a general +soreness in his limbs. The latitude of our camp, as the mean of two +observations of the meridian altitude of the sun's lower limb with +octant by back observation is N. 45° 24' 8" 5"'. + +Tuesday 30. Captain Clarke was this morning much restored; and, +therefore, having made all the observations necessary to fix the +longitude, we reloaded our canoes, and began to ascend Jefferson river. +The river now becomes very crooked, and forms bends on each side; the +current too is rapid, and cut into a great number of channels, and +sometimes shoals, the beds of which consist of coarse gravel. The +islands are unusually numerous: on the right are high plains +occasionally forming cliffs of rocks and hills; while the left was an +extensive low ground and prairie intersected by a number of bayous or +channels falling into the river. Captain Lewis, who had walked through +it with Chaboneau, his wife, and two invalids, joined us at dinner, a +few miles above our camp. Here the Indian woman said was the place where +she had been made prisoner. The men being too few to contend with the +Minnetarees, mounted their horses, and fled as soon as the attack began. +The women and children dispersed, and Sacajawea as she was crossing at a +shoal place, was overtaken in the middle of the river by her pursuers. +As we proceeded, the low grounds were covered with cottonwood and a +thick underbrush, and on both sides of the river, except where the high +hills prevented it, the ground was divided by bayous, which are dammed +up by the beaver, which are very numerous here. We made twelve and a +quarter miles, and encamped on the north side. Captain Lewis proceeded +after dinner, through an extensive low ground of timber and meadow land +intermixed; but the bayous were so obstructed by beaver dams, that in +order to avoid them he directed his course towards the high plain on the +right. This he gained with some difficulty, after wading up to his waist +through the mud and water of a number of beaver dams. When he desired to +rejoin the canoes he found the underbrush so thick, and the river so +crooked, that this, joined to the difficulty of passing the beaver dams, +induced him to go on and endeavour to intercept the river at some point +where it might be more collected into one channel and approach nearer to +the high plain. He arrived at the bank about sunset, having gone only +six miles in a direct course from the canoes: but he saw no traces of +the men, nor did he receive any answer to his shouts nor the firing of +his gun. It was now nearly dark; a duck lighted near him and he shot it. +He then went on the head of a small island where he found some +driftwood, which enabled him to cook his duck for supper, and he laid +down to sleep on some willow brush. The night was cool, but the +driftwood gave him a good fire, and he suffered no inconvenience except +from the mosquitoes. + +Wednesday 31. The next morning he waited till after seven o'clock, when +he became uneasy lest we should have gone beyond his camp last evening +and determined to follow us. Just as he had set out with this intention, +he saw one of the party in advance of the canoes; although our camp was +only two miles below him, in a straight line, we could not reach him +sooner, in consequence of the rapidity of the water and the circuitous +course of the river. We halted for breakfast, after which captain Lewis +continued his route. At the distance of one mile from our encampment we +passed the principal entrance of a stream on the left, which rises in +the snowy mountains to the southwest, between Jefferson and Madison +rivers, and discharges itself by seven mouths, five below, and one three +miles above this, which is the largest, and about thirty yards wide: we +called it Philosophy river. The water of it is abundant and perfectly +clear, and the bed like that of the Jefferson consists of pebble and +gravel. There is some timber in the bottoms of the river, and vast +numbers of otter and beaver, which build on its smaller mouths and the +bayous of its neighbourhood. The Jefferson continues as yesterday, +shoaly and rapid, but as the islands though numerous are small, it is +however more collected into one current than it was below, and is from +ninety to one hundred and twenty yards in width. The low ground has a +fertile soil of rich black loam, and contains a considerable quantity of +timber, with the bullrush and cattail flag very abundant in the moist +parts, while the drier situations are covered with fine grass, tansy, +thistles, onions, and flax. The uplands are barren, and without timber: +the soil is a light yellow clay intermixed with small smooth pebble and +gravel, and the only produce is the prickly-pear, the sedge, and the +bearded grass, which is as dry and inflammable as tinder. As we +proceeded the low grounds became narrower, and the timber more scarce, +till at the distance of ten miles the high hills approach and overhang +the river on both sides, forming cliffs of a hard black granite, like +almost all those below the limestone cliffs at the three forks of the +Missouri: they continue so for a mile and three quarters, where we came +to a point of rock on the right side, at which place the hills again +retire, and the valley widens to the distance of a mile and a half. +Within the next five miles we passed four islands, and reached the foot +of a mountain in a bend of the river to the left: from this place we +went a mile and a quarter to the entrance of a small run discharging +itself on the left, and encamped on an island just above it, after +making seventeen and three quarter miles. We observe some pine on the +hills on both sides of our encampment, which are very lofty. The only +game which we have seen are one bighorn, a few antelopes, deer, and one +brown bear, which escaped from our pursuit. Nothing was, however, killed +to-day, nor have we had any fresh meat except one beaver for the last +two days, so that we are now reduced to an unusual situation, for we +have hitherto always had a great abundance of flesh. + +Thursday, August 1. We left our encampment early, and at the distance of +a mile, reached a point of rocks on the left side, where the river +passes though perpendicular cliffs. Two and three quarter miles further +we halted for breakfast under a cedar tree in a bend to the right: here +as had been previously arranged, captain Lewis left us, with sergeant +Gass, Chaboneau, and Drewyer, intending to go on in advance in search of +the Shoshonees. He began his route along the north side of the river +over a high range of mountains, as captain Clarke who ascended them on +the 26th had observed from them a large valley spreading to the north of +west, and concluded that on leaving the mountain the river took that +direction; but when he reached that valley, captain Lewis found it to be +the passage of a large creek falling just above the mountain into the +Jefferson, which bears to the southwest. On discovering his error, he +bent his course towards that river, which he reached about two in the +afternoon, very much exhausted with heat and thirst. The mountains were +very bare of timber, and the route lay along the steep and narrow +hollows of the mountain, exposed to the mid-day sun, without air, or +shade, or water. Just as he arrived there a flock of elk passed, and +they killed two of them, on which they made their dinner, and left the +rest on the shore for the party in the canoes. After dinner they resumed +their march, and encamped on the north side of the river, after making +seventeen miles; in crossing the mountains captain Lewis saw a flock of +the black or dark brown pheasant, of which he killed one. This bird is +one third larger than the common pheasant of the Atlantic States; its +form is much the same. The male has not however the tufts of long black +feathers on the side of the neck so conspicuous in the Atlantic +pheasant, and both sexes are booted nearly to the toes. The colour is a +uniform dark brown with a small mixture of yellow or yellowish brown +specks on some of the feathers, particularly those of the tail, though +the extremities of these are perfectly black for about an inch. The eye +is nearly black, and the iris has a small dash of yellowish brown; the +feathers of the tail are somewhat longer than those of our pheasant, but +the same in number, eighteen, and nearly equal in size, except that +those of the middle are somewhat the longest; their flesh is white and +agreeably flavoured. + +He also saw among the scattered pine near the top of the mountain, a +blue bird about the size of a robin, but in action and form something +like a jay; it is constantly in motion, hopping from spray to spray, and +its note which is loud and frequent, is, as far as letters can represent +it, char ah! char ah! char ah! + +After breakfast we proceeded on: at the distance of two and a quarter +miles the river enters a high mountain, which forms rugged cliffs of +nearly perpendicular rocks. These are of a black granite at the lower +part, and the upper consists of a light coloured freestone; they +continue from the point of rocks close to the river for nine miles, +which we passed before breakfast, during which the current is very +strong. At nine and a quarter miles we passed an island, and a rapid +fall with a fall of six feet, and reached the entrance of a large creek +on the left side. In passing this place the towline of one of the canoes +broke just at the shoot of the rapids, swung on the rocks and had nearly +upset. To the creek as well as the rapid we gave the name of Frazier, +after Robert* Frazier one of the party: here the country opens into a +beautiful valley from six to eight miles in width: the river then +becomes crooked and crowded with islands; its lowgrounds wide and +fertile, but though covered with fine grass from nine inches to two +feet high; possesses but a small proportion of timber, and that consists +almost entirely of a few narrow-leafed cottonwood distributed along the +verge of the river. The soil of the plain is tolerably fertile, and +consists of a black or dark yellow loam. It gradually ascends on each +side to the bases of two ranges of high mountains which lie parallel* to +the river; the tops of them are yet in part covered with snow, and while +in the valley we are nearly suffocated with heat during the day, and at +night the air is so cold that two blankets are not more than sufficient +covering. In passing through the hills we observed some large cedar +trees, and some juniper also. From Frazier's creek we went three and +three quarter miles, and encamped on the left side, having come thirteen +miles. Directly opposite our camp is a large creek which we call Field's +creek, from Reuben Fields, one of our men. Soon after we halted two of +the hunters went out and returned with five deer, which, with one +bighorn, we killed in coming through the mountain on which we dined; and +the elk left by captain Lewis. We were again well supplied with fresh +meat. In the course of the day we saw a brown bear but were not able to +shoot him. + +Friday, August 2. Captain Lewis, who slept in the valley a few miles +above us, resumed his journey early, and after making five miles and +finding that the river still bore to the south, determined to cross it +in hopes of shortening the route: for the first time therefore he waded +across it, although there are probably many places above the falls where +it might be attempted with equal safety. The river was about ninety +yards wide, the current rapid, and about waist deep: the bottom formed +of smooth pebble with a small mixture of coarse gravel. He then +continued along the left bank of the river till sunset and encamped, +after travelling twenty-four miles. He met no fresh tracks of Indians. +Throughout the valley are scattered the bones and excrement of the +buffaloe* of an old date, but there seems no hope of meeting the animals +themselves in the mountains: he saw an abundance of deer and antelope, +and many tracks of elk and bear. Having killed two deer they feasted +sumptuously, with a desert of currants of different colours; two species +of red, others yellow, deep purple, and black: to these were added black +gooseberries and deep purple serviceberries, somewhat larger than ours, +from which it differs also in colour, size, and the superior excellence +of its flavour. In the low grounds of the river were many beaver-dams +formed of willow brush, mud, and gravel, so closely interwoven that they +resist the water perfectly: some of them were five feet high and +overflowed several acres of land. + +In the meantime we proceeded on slowly, the current being so strong as +to require the utmost exertions of the men to make any advance even with +the aid of the cord and pole, the wind being from the northwest. The +river is full of large and small islands, and the plain cut by great +numbers of bayous or channels, in which are multitudes of beaver. In the +course of the day we passed some villages of barking squirrels: we saw +several rattlesnakes in the plain; young ducks, both of the +duckon-mallard and red-headed fishing duck species; some geese; also the +black woodpecker, and a large herd of elk. The channel, current, banks, +and general appearance of the river, are like that of yesterday. At +fourteen and three quarter miles we reached a rapid creek or bayou about +thirty yards wide, to which we gave the name of Birth creek. After +making seventeen miles we halted in a smooth plain in a bend towards the +left. + +Saturday, 3. Captain Lewis continued his course along the river through +the valley, which continued much as it was yesterday, except that it now +widens to nearly twelve miles; the plains too are more broken and have +some scattered pine near the mountains, where they rise higher than +hitherto. In the level parts of the plains and the river bottoms there +is no timber except small cottonwood near the margin, and an undergrowth +of narrow-leafed willow, small honeysuckle, rosebushes, currants, +serviceberry, and gooseberry, and a little of a small species of birch; +it is a finely indented oval of a small size and a deep green colour; +the stem is simple, ascending and branching, and seldom rises higher +than ten or twelve feet. The mountains continue high on each side of the +valley, but their only covering is a small species of pitch-pine with a +short leaf, growing on the lower and middle regions, while for some +distance below the snowy tops there is neither timber nor herbage of any +kind. About eleven o'clock Drewyer killed a doe on which they +breakfasted, and after resting two hours continued till night, when they +reached the river near a low ground more extensive than usual. From the +appearance of the timber captain Lewis supposed that the river forked +above him, and therefore encamped with an intention of examining it more +particularly in the morning. He had now made twenty-three miles, the +latter part of which were for eight miles through a high plain covered +with prickly pears and bearded grass, which rendered the walking very +inconvenient: but even this was better than the river bottoms we crossed +in the evening, which, though apparently level, were formed into deep +holes as if they had been rooted up by hogs, and the holes were so +covered with thick grass that they were in danger of falling at every +step. Some parts of these low grounds, however, contain turf or peat of +an excellent quality for many feet deep apparently, as well as the +mineral salts which we have already mentioned on the Missouri. They saw +many deer, antelopes, ducks, geese, some beaver, and great traces of +their work, and the small birds and curlews as usual. The only fish +which they observed in this part of the river is the trout and a species +of white fish, with a remarkably long small mouth, which one of our men +recognize as the fish called in the eastern states the bottlenose. + +On setting out with the canoes we found the river as usual much crowded +with islands, the current more rapid as well as shallower, so that in +many places they were obliged to man the canoes double, and drag them +over the stone and gravel of the channel. Soon after we set off captain +Clarke who was walking on shore observed a fresh track which he knew to +be that of an Indian from the large toes being turned inwards, and on +following it found that it led to the point of a hill from which our +camp of last night could be seen. This circumstance strengthened the +belief that some Indian had strayed thither, and had run off alarmed at +the sight of us. At two and a quarter miles, is a small creek in a bend +towards the right, which runs down from the mountains at a little +distance; we called it Panther creek from an animal of that kind killed +by Reuben Fields at its mouth. It is precisely the same animal common to +the western parts of the United States, and measured seven and a half +feet from the nose to the extremity of the tail. Six and three quarter +miles beyond this stream is another on the left formed by the drains +which convey the melted snows from a mountain near it, under which the +river passes, leaving the low grounds on the right side, and making +several bends in its course. On this stream are many large beaver dams. +One mile above it is a small run on the left, and after leaving which +begins a very bad rapid, where the bed of the river is formed of solid +rock: this we passed in the course of a mile, and encamped on the lower +point of an island. Our journey had been only thirteen miles, but the +badness of the river made it very laborious, as the men were compelled +to be in the water during the greater part of the day. We saw only deer, +antelopes, and the common birds of the country. + +Saturday 4. This morning captain Lewis proceeded early, and after going +southeast by east for four miles, reaching a bold running creek, twelve +yards wide, with clear cold water, furnished apparently by four drains +from the snowy mountains on the left; after passing this creek he +changed his direction to southeast, and leaving the valley in which he +had travelled for the last two days, entered another which bore east. At +the distance of three miles on this course he passed a handsome little +river, about thirty yards wide, which winds through the valley: the +current is not rapid nor the water very clear, but it affords a +considerable quantity of water, and appears as if it might be navigable +for some miles. The banks are low, and the bed formed of stone and +gravel. He now changed his route to southwest, and passing a high plain +which separates the vallies, returned to the more southern or that which +he had left: in passing this he found a river about forty-five yards +wide, the water of which has a whitish blue tinge, with a gentle +current, and a gravelly bottom. This he waded and found it waist deep. +He then continued down it, till at the distance of three quarters of a +mile he saw the entrance of the small river he had just passed; as he +went on two miles lower down, he found the mouth of the creek he had +seen in the morning. Proceeding further on three miles, he arrived at +the junction of this river, with another which rises from the southwest, +runs through the south valley about twelve miles before it forms its +junction, where it is fifty yards wide: we now found that our camp of +last night was about a mile and a half above the entrance of this large +river, on the right side. This is a bold, rapid, clear stream, but its +bed is so much obstructed by gravelly bars, and subdivided by islands, +that the navigation must be very insecure, if not impracticable. The +other or middle stream, has about two thirds its quantity of water, and +is more gentle, and may be safely navigated. As far as it could be +observed, its course was about southwest, but the opening of the valley +induced him to believe that farther above it turned more towards the +west. Its water is more turbid and warmer than that of the other branch, +whence it may be presumed to have its sources at a greater distance in +the mountains, and to pass through a more open country. Under this +impression he left a note recommending to captain Clarke the middle +fork, and then continued his course along the right side of the other, +or more rapid branch. After travelling twenty-three miles he near a +place where the river leaves the valley and enters the mountain. Here he +encamped for the night. The country he passed is like that of the rest +of this valley, though there is more timber in this part on the rapid +fork than there has been on the river in the same extent since we +entered it; for on some parts of the valley the Indians seem to have +destroyed a great proportion of the little timber there was, by setting +fire to the bottoms. He saw some antelopes, deer, cranes, geese and +ducks of the two species common to this country, though the summer duck +has ceased to appear, nor does it seem to be an inhabitant of this part +of the river. + +We proceeded soon after sunrise: the first five miles we passed four +bends on the left, and several bayous on both sides. At eight o'clock we +stopped to breakfast, and found the note captain Lewis had written on +the 2d instant. During the next four miles, we passed three small bends +of the river to the right, two small islands, and two bayous on the same +side. Here we reached a bluff on the left; our next course was six miles +to our encampment. In this course we met six circular bends on the +right, and several small bayous, and halted for the night in a low +ground of cottonwood on the right. Our days journey, though only fifteen +miles in length, was very fatiguing. The river is still rapid and the +water though clear is very much obstructed by shoals or ripples at every +two or three hundred yards: at all these places we are obliged to drag +the canoes over the stones as there is not a sufficient depth of water +to float them, and in the other parts the current obliges us to have +recourse to the cord. But as the brushwood on the banks will not permit +us to walk on shore, we are under the necessity of wading through the +river as we drag the boats. This soon makes our feet tender, and +sometimes occasions severe falls over the slippery stones; and the men +by being constantly wet are becoming more feeble. In the course of the +day the hunters killed two deer, some geese and ducks, and the party +saw antelopes, cranes, beaver and otter. + +Monday 5. This morning Chaboneau complained of being unable to march far +to-day, and captain Lewis therefore ordered him and serjeant Gass to +pass the rapid river and proceed through the level low ground, to a +point of high timber on the middle fork, seven miles distant, and wait +his return. He then went along the north side of the rapid river about +four miles, where he waded it, and found it so rapid and shallow that it +would be impossible to navigate it. He continued along the left side for +a mile and a half, when the mountains came close on the river, and rise +to a considerable height with a partial covering of snow. From this +place the course of the river was to the east of north. After ascending +with some difficulty a high point of the mountain, he had a pleasing +view of the valley he had passed, and which continued for about twenty +miles further on each side of the middle fork, which then seemed to +enter the mountains, and was lost to the view. In that direction, +however, the hills which terminate the valley are much lower than those +along either of the other forks, particularly the rapid one, where they +continue rising in ranges above each other us far as the eye could +reach. The general course too of the middle fork, as well as that of the +gap which it forms on entering the mountains, is considerably to the +south of west; circumstances which gave a decided preference to this +branch as our future route. Captain Lewis now descended the mountain, +and crossed over to the middle fork, about five miles distant, and found +it still perfectly navigable. There is a very large and plain Indian +road leading up it, but it has at present no tracks, except those of +horses which seem to have used it last spring. The river here made a +great bend to the southeast, and he therefore directed his course, as +well as he could, to the spot where he had directed Chaboneau and Gass +to repair, and struck the river about three miles above their camp. It +was now dark, and he, therefore, was obliged to make his way through the +thick brush of the pulpy-leafed thorn and the prickly pear, for two +hours before he reached their camp. Here he was fortunate enough to find +the remains of some meat, which was his only food during the march of +twenty-five miles to-day. He had seen no game of any sort except a few +antelopes who were very shy. The soil of the plains is a meagre clay, of +a light yellow colour, intermixed with a large proportion of gravel, and +producing nothing but twisted or bearded grass, sedge and prickly pears. +The drier parts of the low grounds are also more indifferent in point of +soil than those further down the river, and although they have but +little grass, are covered with southern wood, pulpy-leafed thorn, and +prickly pears, while the moist parts are fertile, and supplied with fine +grass and sandrushes. + +We passed within the first four and a quarter miles three small islands, +and the same number of bad rapids. At the distance of three quarters of +a mile is another rapid of difficult passage: three miles and three +quarters beyond this are the forks of the river, in reaching which we +had two islands and several bayous on different sides to pass. Here we +had come nine miles and a quarter. The river was straighter and more +rapid than yesterday, the labour of the navigation proportionally +increased, and we therefore proceeded very slowly, as the feet of +several of the men were swollen, and all were languid with fatigue. We +arrived at the forks about four o'clock, but unluckily captain Lewis's +note had been left on a green pole which the beaver had cut down and +carried off with the note, an accident which deprived us of all +information as to the character of the two branches of the river. +Observing therefore that the northwest fork was most in our direction, +and contained as much water as the other, we ascended it; we found it +extremely rapid, and its waters were scattered in such a manner, that +for a quarter of a mile we were forced to cut a passage through the +willowbrush that leaned over the little channels and united at the top. +After going up it for a mile we encamped on an island which had been +overflowed, and was still so wet that we were compelled to make beds of +brush to keep ourselves out of the mud. Our provision consisted of two +deer which had been killed in the morning. + +Tuesday 6. We proceeded up the northwest fork, which we found still very +rapid, and divided by several islands, while the plains near it were +intersected by bayous. After passing with much difficulty over stones +and rapids, we reached a bluff on the right, at the distance of nine +miles, our general course south 30° west, and halted for breakfast. Here +we were joined by Drewyer, who informed us of the state of the two +rivers and of captain Lewis's note, and we immediately began to descend +the river in order to take the other branch. On going down one of the +canoes upset, and two others filled with water, by which all the baggage +was wet, and several articles irrecoverably lost. As one of them swung +round in a rapid current, Whitehouse was thrown out of her, and whilst +down the canoe passed over him, and had the water been two inches +shallower would have crushed him to pieces; but he escaped with a severe +bruise of his leg. In order to repair these misfortunes we hastened to +the forks, where we were joined by captain Lewis, and then passed over +to the left side opposite to the entrance of the rapid fork, and +encamped on a large gravelly bar, near which there was plenty of wood. +Here we opened and exposed to dry all the articles which had suffered +from the water; none of them were completely spoiled except a small keg +of powder; the rest of the powder, which was distributed in the +different canoes was quite safe, although it had been under the water +upwards of an hour. The air is indeed so pure and dry that any wood-work +immediately shrinks, unless it is kept filled with water; but we had +planned our powder in small canisters of lead, each containing powder +enough for the canister when melted into bullets, and smeared with cork +and wax, which answered our purpose perfectly. + +Captain Lewis had risen very early, and having nothing to eat, sent out +Drewyer to the woodland on the left in search of a deer, and directed +sergeant Gass to keep along the middle branch to meet us if we were +ascending it. He then set off with Chaboneau towards the forks, but five +miles above them, hearing us on the left, struck the river as we were +descending, and came on board at the forks. + +In the evening we killed three deer and four elk, which furnished us +once more with a plentiful supply of meat. Shannon, the same man who was +lost before for fifteen days, was sent out this morning to hunt, up the +northwest fork; when we decided on returning, Drewyer was directed to go +in quest of him, but he returned with information that he had gone +several miles up the river without being able to find Shannon. We now +had the trumpet sounded, and fired several guns, but he did not return, +and we fear he is again lost. + +Wednesday 7. We remained here this morning for the purpose of making +some celestial observations, and also in order to refresh the men, and +complete the drying of the baggage. We obtained a meridian altitude +which gave the latitude of our camp at north 45° 2' 48" 8"'. We were now +completely satisfied that the middle branch was the most navigable, and +the true continuation of the Jefferson. The northwest fork seems to be +the drain of the melting snows of the mountains, its course cannot be so +long as the other branch, and although it contains now as great a +quantity of water, yet the water has obviously overflowed the old bed, +and spread into channels which leave the low grounds covered with young +grass, resembling that of the adjoining lands, which are not inundated; +whence we readily infer that the supply is more precarious than that of +the other branch, the waters of which though more gentle are more +constant. This northwest fork we called Wisdom river. + +As soon as the baggage was dried, it was reloaded on board the boats, +but we now found it so much diminished, that we would we able to proceed +with one canoe less. We therefore hauled up the superfluous one into a +thicket of brush where we secured her against being swept away by the +high tide. At one o'clock all set out, except captain Lewis who remained +till the evening in order to complete the observation of equal +altitudes: we passed several bends of the river both to the right and +left, as well as a number of bayous on both sides, and made seven miles +by water, though the distance by land is only three. We then encamped on +a creek which rises in a high mountain to the northeast, and after +passing through an open plain for several miles, discharges itself on +the left, where it is a bold running stream twelve yards wide. We called +it Turf creek, from the number of bogs and the quantity of turf on its +waters. In the course of the afternoon there fell a shower of rain +attended with thunder and lightning, which lasted about forty minutes, +and the weather remained so cloudy all night that we were unable to take +any lunar observations. Uneasy about Shannon, we sent R. Fields in +search of him this morning, but we have as yet no intelligence of either +of them. Our only game to-day was one deer. + +Thursday 8. There was a heavy dew this morning. Having left one of the +canoes, there are now more men to spare for the chace; and four were +sent out at an early hour, after which we proceeded. We made five miles +by water along two islands and several bayous, but as the river formed +seven different bends towards the left, the distance by land was only +two miles south of our encampment. At the end of that course we reached +the upper principal entrance of a stream which we called Philanthropy +river. This river empties itself into the Jefferson on the southeast +side, by two channels a short distance from each other: from its size +and its southeastern course, we presume that it rises in the Rocky +mountains near the sources of the Madison. It is thirty yards wide at +its entrance, has a very gentle current, and is navigable for some +distance. One mile above this river we passed an island, a second at the +distance of six miles further, during which the river makes a +considerable bend to the east. Reuben Fields returned about noon with +information that he had gone up Wisdom river till its entrance into the +mountains, but could find nothing of Shannon. We made seven miles beyond +the last island, and after passing some small bayous, encamped under a +few high trees on the left, at the distance of fourteen miles above +Philanthropy river by water, though only six by land. The river has in +fact become so very crooked that although by means of the pole which we +now use constantly we make a considerable distance, yet being obliged to +follow its windings, at the end of the day, we find ourselves very +little advanced on our general course. It forms itself into small +circular bends, which are so numerous that within the last fourteen +miles we passed thirty-five of them, all inclining towards the right; it +is however much more gentle and deep than below Wisdom river, and its +general width is from thirty-five to forty-five yards. The general +appearance of the surrounding country is that of a valley five or six +miles wide, enclosed between two high mountains. The bottom is rich, +with some small timber on the islands and along the river, which +consists rather of underbrush, and a few cottonwood, birch, and +willow-trees. The high grounds have some scattered pine, which just +relieve the general nakedness of the hills and the plain, where there is +nothing except grass. Along the bottoms we saw to-day a considerable +quantity of the buffaloe clover, the sunflower, flax, green sward, +thistle and several species of rye grass, some of which rise to the +height of three or four feet. There is also a grass with a soft smooth +leaf which rises about three feet high, and bears its seed very much +like the timothy, but it does not grow luxuriantly nor would it +apparently answer so well in our meadows as that plant. We preserved +some of its seed, which are now ripe, in order to make the experiment. +Our game consisted of deer and antelope, and we saw a number of geese +and ducks just beginning to fly, and some cranes. Among the inferior +animals we have an abundance of the large biting or hare fly, of which +there are two species, one black, the other smaller and brown, except +the head which is green. The green or blowing flies unite with them in +swarms to attack us, and seem to have relieved the eye-gnats who have +now disappeared. The musquitoes too are in large quantities, but not so +troublesome as they were below. Through the valley are scattered bogs, +and some very good turf, the earth of which the mud is composed is of a +white or bluish white colour, and seems to be argilaceous. On all the +three rivers, but particularly on the Philanthropy, are immense +quantities of beaver, otter and muskrat. At our camp there was an +abundance of rosebushes and briars, but so little timber that we were +obliged to use willow brush for fuel. The night was again cloudy which +prevented the lunar observations. + +On our right is the point of a high plain, which our Indian woman +recognizes as the place called the Beaver's-head from a supposed +resemblance to that object. This she says is not far from the summer +retreat of her countrymen, which is on a river beyond the mountains, and +running to the west. She is therefore certain that we shall meet them +either on this river, or on that immediately west of its source, which +judging from its present size, cannot be far distant. Persuaded of the +absolute necessity of procuring horses to cross the mountains, it was +determined that one of us should proceed in the morning to the head of +the river, and penetrate the mountains till he found the Shoshonees or +some other nation who could assist us in transporting our baggage, the +greater part of which we shall be compelled to leave without the aid of +horses. + +Friday 9. The morning was fair and fine. We set off early, and proceeded +on very well, though there were more rapids in the river than +yesterday. At eight o'clock we halted for breakfast, part of which +consisted of two fine geese killed before we stopped. Here we were +joined by Shannon for whose safety we had been so uneasy. The day on +which he left us on his way up Wisdom river, after hunting for some time +and not seeing the party arrive, he returned to the place where he had +left us. Not finding us there he supposed we had passed him, and he +therefore marched up the river during all the next day, when he was +convinced that we had not gone on, as the river was no longer navigable. +He now followed the course of the river down to the forks, and then took +the branch which we are pursuing. During the three days of his absence, +he had been much wearied with his march, but had lived plentifully, and +brought the skins of three deer. As far as he had ascended Wisdom river +it kept its course obliquely down towards the Jefferson. Immediately +after breakfast, captain Lewis took Drewyer, Shields and M'Neal, and +slinging their knapsacks they set out with a resolution to meet some +nation of Indians before they returned, however long they might be +separated from the party. He directed his course across the low ground +to the plain on the right, leaving the Beaver's-head about two miles to +the left. After walking eight miles to the river, which they waded, they +went on to a commanding point from which he saw the place at which it +enters the mountain, but as the distance would not permit his reaching +it this evening, he descended towards the river, and after travelling +eight miles further, encamped for the evening some miles below the +mountain. They passed before reaching their camp a handsome little +stream formed by some large springs which rise in the wide bottom on the +left side of the river. In their way they killed two antelopes, and took +with them enough of the meat for their supper and breakfast the next +morning. + +In the meantime we proceeded, and in the course of eleven miles from +our last encampment passed two small islands, sixteen short round bends +in the river, and halted in a bend towards the right where we dined. The +river increases in rapidity as we advance, and is so crooked that the +eleven miles, which have cost us so much labour, only bring us four +miles in a direct line. The weather became overcast towards evening, and +we experienced a slight shower attended with thunder and lightning. The +three hunters who were sent out killed only two antelopes; game of every +kind being scarce. + +Saturday, 10. Captain Lewis continued his route at an early hour through +the wide bottom along the left bank of the river. At about five miles he +passed a large creek, and then fell into an Indian road leading towards +the point where the river entered the mountain. This he followed till he +reached a high perpendicular cliff of rocks where the river makes its +passage through the hills, and which he called the Rattlesnake cliff, +from the number of that animal which he saw there: here he kindled a +fire and waited the return of Drewyer, who had been sent out on the way +to kill a deer: he came back about noon with the skin of three deer and +the flesh of one of the best of them. After a hasty dinner they returned +to the Indian road which they had left for a short distance to see the +cliff. It led them sometimes over the hills, sometimes in the narrow +bottoms of the river, till at the distance of fifteen miles from the +Rattlesnake cliffs they reached a handsome open and level valley, where +the river divided into two nearly equal branches. The mountains over +which they passed were not very high, but are rugged and continue close +to the river side. The river, which before it enters the mountain was +rapid, rocky, very crooked, much divided by islands, and shallow, now +becomes more direct in its course as it is hemmed in by the hills, and +has not so many bends nor islands, but becomes more rapid and rocky, +and continues as shallow. On examining the two branches of the river it +was evident that neither of them was navigable further. The road forked +with the river; and captain Lewis therefore sent a man up each of them +for a short distance, in order that by comparing their respective +information he might be able to take that which seemed to have been most +used this spring. From their account he resolved to choose that which +led along the southwest branch of the river which was rather the smaller +of the two: he accordingly wrote a note to captain Clarke informing him +of the route, and recommending his staying with the party at the forks +till he should return: This he fixed on a dry willow pole at the forks +of the river, and then proceeded up the southwest branch; but after +going a mile and a half the road became scarcely distinguishable, and +the tracks of the horses which he had followed along the Jefferson were +no longer seen. Captain Lewis therefore returned to examine the other +road himself, and found that the horses had in fact passed along the +western or right fork which had the additional recommendation of being +larger than the other. + +This road he concluded to take, and therefore sent back Drewyer to the +forks with a second letter to captain Clarke apprising him of the +change, and then proceeded on. The valley of the west fork through which +he now passed, bears a little to the north of west, and is confined +within the space of about a mile in width, by rough mountains and steep +cliffs of rock. At the distance of four and a half miles it opens into a +beautiful and extensive plain about ten miles long and five or six in +width: this is surrounded on all sides by higher rolling or waving +country, intersected by several little rivulets from the mountains, each +bordered by its wide meadows. The whole prospect is bounded by these +mountains, which nearly surround it, so as to form a beautiful cove +about sixteen or eighteen miles in diameter. On entering this cove the +river bends to the northwest, and bathes the foot of the hills to the +right. At this place they halted for the night on the right side of the +river, and having lighted a fire of dry willow brush, the only fuel +which the country affords, supped on a deer. They had travelled to-day +thirty miles by estimate: that is ten to the Rattlesnake cliff, fifteen +to the forks of Jefferson river, and five to their encampment. In this +cove some parts of the low grounds are tolerably fertile, but much the +greater proportion is covered with prickly pear, sedge, twisted grass, +the pulpy-leafed thorn, southern-wood, and wild sage, and like the +uplands have a very inferior soil. These last have little more than the +prickly pear and the twisted or bearded grass, nor are there in the +whole cove more than three or four cottonwood trees, and those are +small. At the apparent extremity of the bottom above, and about ten +miles to the westward, are two perpendicular cliffs rising to a +considerable height on each side of the river, and at this distance seem +like a gate. In the meantime we proceeded at sunrise, and found the +river not so rapid as yesterday, though more narrow and still very +crooked, and so shallow that we were obliged to drag the canoes over +many ripples in the course of the day. At six and a half miles we had +passed eight bends on the north, and two small bayous on the left, and +came to what the Indians call the Beaver's-head, a steep rocky cliff +about one hundred and fifty feet high, near the right side of the river. +Opposite to this at three hundred yards from the water is a low cliff +about fifty feet in height, which forms the extremity of a spur of the +mountain about four miles distant on the left. At four o'clock we were +overtaken by a heavy shower of rain, attended with thunder, lightning +and hail. The party were defended from the hail by covering themselves +with willow bushes, but they got completely wet, and in this situation, +as soon as the rain ceased, continued till we encamped. This we did at a +low bluff on the left, after passing in the course of six and a half +miles, four islands and eighteen bends on the right, and a low bluff +and several bayous on the same side. We had now come thirteen miles, yet +were only four on our route towards the mountains. The game seems to be +declining, for our hunters procured only a single deer, though we found +another for us that had been killed three days before by one of the +hunters during an excursion, and left for us on the river. + + + + + CHAPTER XIV. + + Captain Lewis proceeds before the main body in search of the + Shoshonees--his ill success on the first interview--the party with + captain Lewis at length discover the source of the + Missouri--captain Clarke with the main body still employed in + ascending the Missouri or Jefferson river--captain Lewis's second + interview with the Shoshonees attended with success--the + interesting ceremonies of his first introduction to the natives, + detailed at large--their hospitality--their mode of hunting the + antelope--the difficulties encountered by captain Clarke and the + main body in ascending the river--the suspicions entertained of + captain Lewis by the Shoshonees, and his mode of allaying them--the + ravenous appetites of the savages illustrated by a singular + adventure--the Indians still jealous, and the great pains taken by + captain Lewis to preserve their confidence--captain Clarke arrives + with the main body exhausted by the difficulties which they + underwent. + + +Sunday, August 11. Captain Lewis again proceeded on early, but had the +mortification to find that the track which he followed yesterday soon +disappeared. He determined therefore to go on to the narrow gate or pass +of the river which he had seen from the camp, in hopes of being able to +recover the Indian path. For this purpose he waded across the river, +which was now about twelve yards wide, and barred in several places by +the dams of the beaver, and then went straight forward to the pass, +sending one man along the river to his left, and another on the right, +with orders to search for the road, and if they found it to let him know +by raising a hat on the muzzle of their guns. In this order they went +along for about five miles, when captain Lewis perceived with the +greatest delight a man on horseback at the distance of two miles coming +down the plain towards them. On examining him with the glass, captain +Lewis saw that he was of a different nation from any Indians we had +hitherto met: he was armed with a bow and a quiver of arrows; mounted +on an elegant horse without a saddle, and a small string attached to the +under jaw answered as a bridle. Convinced that he was a Shoshonee, and +knowing how much of our success depended on the friendly offices of that +nation, captain Lewis was full of anxiety to approach without alarming +him, and endeavour to convince him that he was a white man. He +therefore, proceeded on towards the Indian at his usual pace, when they +were within a mile of each other the Indian suddenly stopt, captain +Lewis immediately followed his example, took his blanket from his +knapsack, and holding it with both hands at the two corners, threw it +above his head and unfolded it as he brought it to the ground as if in +the act of spreading it. This signal which originates in the practice of +spreading a robe or a skin, as a seat for guests to whom they wish to +show a distinguished kindness, is the universal sign of friendship among +the Indians on the Missouri and the Rocky mountains. As usual, captain +Lewis repeated this signal three times: still the Indian kept his +position, and looked with an air of suspicion on Drewyer and Shields who +were now advancing on each side. Captain Lewis was afraid to make any +signal for them to halt, lest he should increase the suspicions of the +Indian, who began to be uneasy, and they too distant to hear his voice. +He, therefore, took from his pack some beads, a looking-glass and a few +trinkets, which he had brought for the purpose, and leaving his gun +advanced unarmed towards the Indian. He remained in the same position +till captain Lewis came within two hundred yards of him, when he turned +his horse, and began to move off slowly; captain Lewis then called out +to him, in as loud a voice as he could, repeating the word, tabba bone! +which in the Shoshonee language means white man; but looking over his +shoulder the Indian kept his eyes on Drewyer and Shields, who were still +advancing, without recollecting the impropriety of doing so at such a +moment, till captain Lewis made a signal to them to halt; this Drewyer +obeyed, but Shields did not observe it, and still went forward: seeing +Drewyer halt the Indian turned his horse about as if to wait for captain +Lewis who now reached within one hundred and fifty paces, repeating the +word tabba bone, and holding up the trinkets in his hand, at the same +time stripping up the sleeve of his shirt to show the colour of his +skin. The Indian suffered him to advance within one hundred paces, then +suddenly turned his horse, and giving him the whip, leaped across the +creek, and disappeared in an instant among the willow bushes: with him +vanished all the hopes which the sight of him had inspired of a friendly +introduction to his countrymen. Though sadly disappointed by the +imprudence of his two men, captain Lewis determined to make the incident +of some use, and therefore calling the men to him they all set off after +the track of the horse, which they hoped might lead them to the camp of +the Indian who had fled, or if he had given the alarm to any small +party, their track might conduct them to the body of the nation. They +now fixed a small flag of the United States on a pole, which was carried +by one of the men as a signal of their friendly intentions, should the +Indians observe them as they were advancing. The route lay across an +island formed by a nearly equal division of the creek in the bottom: +after reaching the open grounds on the right side of the creek, the +track turned towards some high hills about three miles distant. +Presuming that the Indian camp might be among these hills, and that by +advancing hastily he might be seen and alarm them, captain Lewis sought +an elevated situation near the creek, had a fire made of willow brush, +and took breakfast. At the same time he prepared a small assortment of +beads, trinkets, awls, some paint and a looking glass, and placed them +on a pole near the fire, in order that if the Indians returned they +might discover that the party were white men and friends. Whilst making +these preparations a very heavy shower of rain and hail came on, and +wet them to the skin: in about twenty minutes it was over, and captain +Lewis then renewed his pursuit, but as the rain had made the grass which +the horse had trodden down rise again, his track could with difficulty +be distinguished. As they went along they passed several places where +the Indians seemed to have been digging roots to-day, and saw the fresh +track of eight or ten horses, but they had been wandering about in so +confused a manner that he could not discern any particular path, and at +last, after pursuing it about four miles along the valley to the left +under the foot of the hills, he lost the track of the fugitive Indian. +Near the head of the valley they had passed a large bog covered with +moss and tall grass, among which were several springs of pure cold +water: they now turned a little to the left along the foot of the high +hills, and reached a small creek where they encamped for the night, +having made about twenty miles, though not more than ten in a direct +line from their camp of last evening. + +The morning being rainy and wet we did not set out with the canoes till +after an early breakfast. During the first three miles we passed three +small islands, six bayous on different sides of the river, and the same +number of bends towards the right. Here we reached the lower point of a +large island which we called Three-thousand-mile island, on account of +its being at that distance from the mouth of the Missouri. It is three +miles and a half in length, and as we coasted along it we passed several +small bends of the river towards the left, and two bayous on the same +side. After leaving the upper point of Three-thousand-mile island, we +followed the main channel on the left side, which led us by three small +islands and several small bayous, and fifteen bends towards the right. +Then at the distance of seven miles and a half we encamped on the upper +end of a large island near the right. The river was shallow and rapid, +so that we were obliged to be in the water during a great part of the +day, dragging the canoes over the shoals and ripples. Its course too was +so crooked, that notwithstanding we had made fourteen miles by water, we +were only five miles from our encampment of last night. The country +consists of a low ground on the river about five miles wide, and +succeeded on both sides by plains of the same extent which reach to the +base of the mountains. These low grounds are very much intersected by +bayous, and in those on the left side is a large proportion of bog +covered with tall grass, which would yield a fine turf. There are very +few trees, and those small narrow-leafed cottonwood: the principal +growth being the narrow-leafed willow, and currant bushes, among which +were some bunches of privy near the river. We saw a number of geese, +ducks, beaver, otter, deer and antelopes, of all which one beaver was +killed with a pole from the boat, three otters with a tomahawk, and the +hunters brought in three deer and an antelope. + +Monday, 12. This morning as soon as it was light captain Lewis sent +Drewyer to reconnoitre if possible the route of the Indians: in about an +hour and a half he returned, after following the tracks of the horse +which we had lost yesterday to the mountains, where they ascended and +were no longer visible. Captain Lewis now decided on making the circuit +along the foot of the mountains which formed the cove, expecting by that +means to find a road across them, and accordingly sent Drewyer on one +side, and Shields on the other. In this way they crossed four small +rivulets near each other, on which were some bowers or conical lodges of +willow brush, which seemed to have been made recently. From the manner +in which the ground in the neighbourhood was torn up the Indians +appeared to have been gathering roots; but captain Lewis could not +discover what particular plant they were searching for, nor could he +find any fresh track, till at the distance of four miles from his camp +he met a large plain Indian road which came into the cove from the +northeast, and wound along the foot of the mountains to the southwest, +approaching obliquely the main stream he had left yesterday. Down this +road he now went towards the southwest: at the distance of five miles it +crossed a large run or creek, which is a principal branch of the main +stream into which it falls, just above the high cliffs or gates observed +yesterday, and which they now saw below them: here they halted and +breakfasted on the last of the deer, keeping a small piece of pork in +reserve against accident: they then continued through the low bottom +along the main stream near the foot of the mountains on their right. For +the first five miles the valley continues towards the southwest from two +to three miles in width; then the main stream, which had received two +small branches from the left in the valley, turns abruptly to the west +through a narrow bottom between the mountains. The road was still plain, +and as it led them directly on towards the mountain the stream gradually +became smaller, till after going two miles it had so greatly diminished +in width that one of the men in a fit of enthusiasm, with one foot on +each side of the river, thanked God that he had lived to bestride the +Missouri. As they went along their hopes of soon seeing the waters of +the Columbia arose almost to painful anxiety, when after four miles from +the last abrupt turn of the river, they reached a small gap formed by +the high mountains which recede on each side, leaving room for the +Indian road. From the foot of one of the lowest of these mountains, +which rises with a gentle ascent of about half a mile, issues the +remotest water of the Missouri. They had now reached the hidden sources +of that river, which had never yet been seen by civilized man; and as +they quenched their thirst at the chaste and icy fountain--as they sat +down by the brink of that little rivulet, which yielded its distant and +modest tribute to the parent ocean, they felt themselves rewarded for +all their labours and all their difficulties. They left reluctantly +this interesting spot, and pursuing the Indian road through the interval +of the hills, arrived at the top of a ridge, from which they saw high +mountains partially covered with snow still to the west of them. The +ridge on which they stood formed the dividing line between the waters of +the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. They followed a descent much steeper +than that on the eastern side, and at the distance of three quarters of +a mile reached a handsome bold creek of cold clear water running to the +westward. They stopped to taste for the first time the waters of the +Columbia; and after a few minutes followed the road across steep hills +and low hollows, till they reached a spring on the side of a mountain: +here they found a sufficient quantity of dry willow brush for fuel, and +therefore halted for the night; and having killed nothing in the course +of the day supped on their last piece of pork, and trusted to fortune +for some other food to mix with a little flour and parched meal, which +was all that now remained of their provisions. Before reaching the +fountain of the Missouri they saw several large hawks nearly black, and +some of the heath cocks: these last have a long pointed tail, and are of +a uniform dark brown colour, much larger than the common dunghill fowl, +and similar in habits and the mode of flying to the grouse or prairie +hen. Drewyer also wounded at the distance of one hundred and thirty +yards an animal which we had not yet seen, but which after falling +recovered itself and escaped. It seemed to be of the fox kind, rather +larger than the small wolf of the plains, and with a skin in which +black, reddish brown, and yellow, were curiously intermixed. On the +creek of the Columbia they found a species of currant which does not +grow as high as that of the Missouri, though it is more branching, and +its leaf, the under disk of which is covered with a hairy pubescence, is +twice as large. The fruit is of the ordinary size and shape of the +currant, and supported in the usual manner, but is of a deep purple +colour, acid, and of a very inferior flavour. + +We proceeded on in the boats, but as the river was very shallow and +rapid, the navigation is extremely difficult, and the men who are almost +constantly in the water are getting feeble and sore, and so much wore +down by fatigue that they are very anxious to commence travelling by +land. We went along the main channel which is on the right side, and +after passing nine bends in that direction, three islands and a number +of bayous, reached at the distance of five and a half miles the upper +point of a large island. At noon there was a storm of thunder which +continued about half an hour; after which we proceeded, but as it was +necessary to drag the canoes over the shoals and rapids, made but little +progress. On leaving the island we passed a number of short bends, +several bayous, and one run of water on the right side, and having gone +by four small and two large islands, encamped on a smooth plain to the +left near a few cottonwood trees: our journey by water was just twelve +miles, and four in a direct line. The hunters supplied us with three +deer and a fawn. + +Tuesday 13. Very early in the morning captain Lewis resumed the Indian +road, which led him in a western direction, through an open broken +country; on the left was a deep valley at the foot of a high range of +mountains running from southeast to northwest, with their sides better +clad with timber than the hills to which we have been for some time +accustomed, and their tops covered in part with snow. At five miles +distance, after following the long descent of another valley, he reached +a creek about ten yards wide, and on rising the hill beyond it had a +view of a handsome little valley on the left, about a mile in width, +through which they judged, from the appearance of the timber, that some +stream of water most probably passed. On the creek they had just left +were some bushes of the white maple, the sumach of the small species +with the winged rib, and a species of honeysuckle, resembling in its +general appearance and the shape of its leaf the small honeysuckle of +the Missouri, except that it is rather larger, and bears a globular +berry, about the size of a garden pea, of a white colour, and formed of +a soft white mucilaginous substance, in which are several small brown +seeds irregularly scattered without any cell, and enveloped in a smooth +thin pellicle. + +They proceeded along a waving plain parallel to this valley for about +four miles, when they discovered two women, a man and some dogs on an +eminence at the distance of a mile before them. The strangers first +viewed them apparently with much attention for a few minutes, and then +two of them sat down as if to await captain Lewis's arrival. He went on +till he reached within about half a mile, then ordered his party to +stop, put down his knapsack and rifle, and unfurling the flag advanced +alone towards the Indians. The females soon retreated behind the hill, +but the man remained till captain Lewis came within a hundred yards from +him, when he too went off, though captain Lewis called out tabba bone! +loud enough to be heard distinctly. He hastened to the top of the hill, +but they had all disappeared. The dogs however were less shy, and came +close to him; he therefore thought of tying a handkerchief with some +beads round their necks, and then let them loose to convince the +fugitives of his friendly disposition, but they would not suffer him to +take hold of them, and soon left him. He now made a signal to the men, +who joined him, and then all followed the track of the Indians, which +led along a continuation of the same road they had been already +travelling. It was dusty and seemed to have been much used lately both +by foot passengers and horsemen. They had not gone along it more than a +mile when on a sudden they saw three female Indians, from whom they had +been concealed by the deep ravines which intersected the road, till they +were now within thirty paces of each other; one of them a young woman +immediately took to flight, the other two, an elderly woman and a +little girl, seeing we were too near for them to escape, sat on the +ground, and holding down their heads seemed as if reconciled to the +death which they supposed awaited them. The same habit of holding down +the head and inviting the enemy to strike, when all chance of escape is +gone, is preserved in Egypt to this day. Captain Lewis instantly put +down his rifle, and advancing towards them, took the woman by the hand, +raised her up, and repeated the word tabba bone! at the sane time +stripping up his shirt sleeve to prove that he was a white man, for his +hands and face had become by constant exposure quite as dark as their +own. She appeared immediately relieved from her alarm, and Drewyer and +Shields now coming up, captain Lewis gave them some beads, a few awls, +pewter mirrors, and a little paint, and told Drewyer to request the +woman to recall her companion who had escaped to some distance, and by +alarming the Indians might cause them to attack him without any time for +explanation. She did as she was desired, and the young woman returned +almost out of breath: captain Lewis gave her an equal portion of +trinkets, and painted the tawny cheeks of all three of them with +vermillion, a ceremony which among the Shoshonees is emblematic of +peace. After they had become composed, he informed them by signs of his +wish to go to their camp in order to see their chiefs and warriors; they +readily obeyed, and conducted the party along the same road down the +river. In this way they marched two miles, when they met a troop of +nearly sixty warriors mounted on excellent horses riding at full speed +towards them. As they advanced captain Lewis put down his gun, and went +with the flag about fifty paces in advance. The chief who with two men +were riding in front of the main body, spoke to the women, who now +explained that the party was composed of white men, and showed +exultingly the presents they had received. The three men immediately +leaped from their horses, came up to Captain Lewis and embraced him with +great cordiality, putting their left arm over his right shoulder and +clasping his back, applying at the same time their left cheek to his, +and frequently vociferating ah hi e! ah hi e! "I am much pleased, I am +much rejoiced." The whole body of warriors now came forward, and our men +received the caresses, and no small share of the grease and paint of +their new friends. After this fraternal embrace, of which the motive was +much more agreeable than the manner, captain Lewis lighted a pipe and +offered it to the Indians who had now seated themselves in a circle +around the party. But before they would receive this mark of friendship +they pulled off their moccasins, a custom as we afterwards learnt, which +indicates the sacred sincerity of their professions when they smoke with +a stranger, and which imprecates on themselves the misery of going +barefoot forever if they are faithless to their words, a penalty by no +means light to those who rove over the thorny plains of their country. +It is not unworthy to remark the analogy which some of the customs of +those wild children of the wilderness bear to those recorded in holy +writ. Moses is admonished to pull off his shoes, for the place on which +he stood was holy ground. Why this was enjoined as an act of peculiar +reverence; whether it was from the circumstance that in the arid region +in which the patriarch then resided, it was deemed a test of the +sincerity of devotion to walk upon the burning sands barefooted, in some +measure analogous to the pains inflicted by the prickly pear, does not +appear. After smoking a few pipes, some trifling presents were +distributed amongst them, with which they seemed very much pleased, +particularly with the blue beads and the vermillion. Captain Lewis then +informed the chief that the object of his visit was friendly, and should +be explained as soon as he reached their camp; but that in the meantime +as the sun was oppressive, and no water near, he wished to go there as +soon as possible. They now put on their moccasins, and their chief, +whose name was Cameahwait, made a short speech to the warriors. Captain +Lewis then gave him the flag, which he informed him was among white men +the emblem of peace, and now that he had received it was to be in future +the bond of union between them. The chief then moved on, our party +followed him, and the rest of the warriors in a squadron, brought up the +rear. After marching a mile they were halted by the chief, who made a +second harangue, on which six or eight young men rode forward to their +camp, and no further regularity was observed in the order of march. At +the distance of four miles from where they had first met, they reached +the Indian camp, which was in a handsome level meadow on the bank of the +river. Here they were introduced into an old leathern lodge which the +young men who had been sent from the party had fitted up for their +reception. After being seated on green boughs and antelope skins, one of +the warriors pulled up the grass in the centre of the lodge so as to +form a vacant circle of two feet diameter, in which he kindled a fire. +The chief then produced his pipe and tobacco, the warriors all pulled +off their moccasins, and our party was requested to take off their own. +This being done, the chief lighted his pipe at the fire within the magic +circle, and then retreating from it began a speech several minutes long, +at the end of which he pointed the stem towards the four cardinal points +of the heavens, beginning with the east and concluding with the north. +After this ceremony he presented the stem in the same way to captain +Lewis, who supposing it an invitation to smoke, put out his hand to +receive the pipe, but the chief drew it back, and continued to repeat +the same offer three times, after which he pointed the stem first to the +heavens, then to the centre of the little circle, took three whiffs +himself, and presented it again to captain Lewis. Finding that this last +offer was in good earnest, he smoked a little, the pipe was then held to +each of the white men, and after they had taken a few whiffs was given +to the warriors. This pipe was made of a dense transparent green stone, +very highly polished; about two and an half inches long, and of an oval +figure, the bowl being in the same situation with the stem. A small +piece of burnt clay is placed in the bottom of the bowl to separate the +tobacco from the end of the stem, and is of an irregularly round figure, +not fitting the tube perfectly close, in order that the smoke may pass +with facility. The tobacco is of the same kind with that used by the +Minnetarees, Mandans and Ricaras of the Missouri. The Shoshonees do not +cultivate this plant, but obtain it from the Rocky mountain Indians, and +some of the bands of their own nation who live further south. The +ceremony of smoking being concluded, captain Lewis explained to the +chief the purposes of his visit, and as by this time all the women and +children of the camp had gathered around the lodge to indulge in a view +of the first white men they had ever seen, he distributed among them the +remainder of the small articles he had brought with him. It was now late +in the afternoon, and our party had tasted no food since the night +before. On apprising the chief of this circumstance, he said that he had +nothing but berries to eat, and presented some cakes made of +serviceberry and chokecherries which had been dried in the sun. On these +captain Lewis made a hearty meal, and then walked down towards the +river: he found it a rapid clear stream forty yards wide and three feet +deep; the banks were low and abrupt, like those of the upper part of the +Missouri, and the bed formed of loose stones and gravel. Its course, as +far as he could observe it, was a little to the north of west, and was +bounded on each side by a range of high mountains, of which those on the +east are the lowest and most distant from the river. + +The chief informed him that this stream discharged itself at the +distance of half a day's march, into another of twice its size, coming +from the southwest; but added, on further inquiry, that there was +scarcely more timber below the junction of those rivers than in this +neighbourhood, and that the river was rocky, rapid, and so closely +confined between high mountains, that it was impossible to pass down +it, either by land or water to the great lake, where as he had +understood the white men lived. This information was far from being +satisfactory; for there was no timber here that would answer the purpose +of building canoes, indeed not more than just sufficient for fuel, and +even that consisted of the narrow-leafed cotton wood, the red and the +narrow-leafed willow, the chokecherry, serviceberry and a few currant +bushes such as are common on the Missouri. The prospect of going on by +land is more pleasant; for there are great numbers of horses feeding in +every direction round the camp, which will enable us to transport our +stores if necessary over the mountains. Captain Lewis returned from the +river to his lodge, and on his way an Indian invited him into his bower +and gave him a small morsel of boiled antelope and a piece of fresh +salmon roasted. This was the first salmon he had seen, and perfectly +satisfied him that he was now on the waters of the Pacific. On reaching +this lodge, he resumed his conversation with the chief, after which he +was entertained with a dance by the Indians. It now proved, as our party +had feared, that the men whom they had first met this morning had +returned to the camp and spread the alarm that their enemies, the +Minnetarees of fort de Prairie, whom they call Pahkees, were advancing +on them. The warriors instantly armed themselves and were coming down in +expectation of an attack, when they were agreeably surprised by meeting +our party. The greater part of them were armed with bows and arrows, and +shields, but a few had small fusils, such as are furnished by the +northwest company traders, and which they had obtained from the Indians +on the Yellowstone, with whom they are now at peace. They had reason to +dread the approach of the Pahkees, who had attacked them in the course +of this spring and totally defeated them. On this occasion twenty of +their warriors were either killed or made prisoners, and they lost their +whole camp except the leathern lodge which they had fitted up for us, +and were now obliged to live in huts of a conical figure made with +willow brush. The music and dancing, which was in no respect different +from those of the Missouri Indians, continued nearly all night; but +captain Lewis retired to rest about twelve o'clock, when the fatigues of +the day enabled him to sleep though he was awaked several times by the +yells of the dancers. + +Whilst all these things were occurring to captain Lewis we were slowly +and laboriously ascending the river. For the first two and a half miles +we went along the island opposite to which we encamped last evening, and +soon reached a second island behind which comes in a small creek on the +left side of the river. It rises in the mountains to the east and forms +a handsome valley for some miles from its mouth, where it is a bold +running stream about seven yards wide: we called it M'Neal's creek, +after Hugh M'Neal one of our party. Just above this stream and at the +distance of four miles from our camp is a point of limestone rock on the +right, about seventy feet high, forming a cliff over the river. From the +top of it the Beaver's-head bore north 24° east twelve miles distant, +the course of Wisdom river, that is the direction of its valley through +the mountains is north 25° west, while the gap through which the +Jefferson enters the mountains is ten miles above us on a course south +18° west. From this limestone rock we proceeded along several islands, +on both sides, and after making twelve miles arrived at a cliff of high +rocks on the right, opposite to which we encamped in a smooth level +prairie, near a few cottonwood trees; but were obliged to use the dry +willow brush for fuel. The river is still very crooked, the bends short +and abrupt, and obstructed by so many shoals, over which the canoes were +to be dragged, that the men were in the water three fourths of the day. +They saw numbers of otter, some beaver, antelopes, ducks, geese, and +cranes, but they killed nothing except a single deer. They, however, +caught some very fine trout, as they have done for several days past. +The weather had been cloudy and cool during the forepart of the day, and +at eight o'clock a shower of rain fell. + +Wednesday 14. In order to give time for the boats to reach the forks of +Jefferson river, captain Lewis determined to remain here and obtain all +the information he could collect with regard to the country. Having +nothing to eat but a little flour and parched meal, with the berries of +the Indians, he sent out Drewyer and Shields, who borrowed horses from +the natives, to hunt for a few hours. About the same time the young +warriors set out for the same purpose. There are but few elk or +blacktailed deer in this neighbourhood, and as the common red-deer +secrete themselves in the bushes when alarmed, they are soon safe from +the arrows, which are but feeble weapons against any animals which the +huntsmen cannot previously run down with their horses. The chief game of +the Shoshonees, therefore, is the antelope, which when pursued retreats +to the open plains, where the horses have full room for the chase. But +such is its extraordinary fleetness and wind that a single horse has no +possible chance of outrunning it, or tiring it down; and the hunters are +therefore obliged to resort to stratagem. About twenty Indians, mounted +on fine horses, and armed with bows and arrows, left the camp; in a +short time they descried a herd of ten antelopes: they immediately +separated into little squads of two or three, and formed a scattered +circle round the herd for five or six miles, keeping at a wary distance, +so as not to alarm them till they were perfectly inclosed, and usually +selecting some commanding eminence as a stand. Having gained their +positions, a small party rode towards the herd, and with wonderful +dexterity the huntsman preserved his seat, and the horse his footing, as +he ran at full speed over the hills, and down the steep ravines, and +along the borders of the precipices. They were soon outstripped by the +antelopes, which on gaining the other extremity of the circle were +driven back and pursued by the fresh hunters. They turned and flew, +rather than ran in another direction; but there too, they found new +enemies. In this way they were alternately pursued backwards and +forwards, till at length, notwithstanding the skill of the hunters, they +all escaped, and the party after running for two hours returned without +having caught any thing, and their horses foaming with sweat. This +chase, the greater part of which was seen from the camp, formed a +beautiful scene; but to the hunters is exceedingly laborious, and so +unproductive, even when they are able to worry the animal down and shoot +him, that forty or fifty hunters will sometimes be engaged for half a +day without obtaining more than two or three antelopes. Soon after they +returned, our two huntsmen came in with no better success. Captain Lewis +therefore made a little paste with the flour, and the addition of some +berries formed a very palatable repast. Having now secured the good will +of Cameahwait, captain Lewis informed him of his wish that he would +speak to the warriors and endeavour to engage them to accompany him to +the forks of Jefferson river, where by this time another chief with a +large party of white men were waiting his return: that it would be +necessary to take about thirty horses to transport the merchandize; that +they should be well rewarded for their trouble; and that when all the +party should have reached the Shoshonee camp they would remain some time +among them, and trade for horses, as well as concert plans for +furnishing them in future with regular supplies of merchandize. He +readily consented to do so, and after collecting the tribe together he +made a long harangue, and in about an hour and a half returned, and told +captain Lewis that they would be ready to accompany him in the morning. + +As the early part of the day was cold, and the men stiff and sore from +the fatigues of yesterday: we did not set out till seven o'clock. At the +distance of a mile we passed a bold stream on the right, which comes +from a snowy mountain to the north, and at its entrance is four yards +wide, and three feet in depth: we called it Track creek: at six miles +further we reached another stream which heads in some springs at the +foot of the mountains on the left. Alter passing a number of bayous and +small islands on each side, we encamped about half a mile by land below +the Rattlesnake cliffs. The river was cold, shallow, and as it +approached the mountains formed one continued rapid, over which we were +obliged to drag the boats with great labour and difficulty. By using +constant exertions we succeeded in making fourteen miles, but this +distance did not carry us more than six and a half in a straight line: +several of the men have received wounds and lamed themselves in hauling +the boats over the stones. The hunters supplied them with five deer and +an antelope. + +Thursday 15. Captain Lewis rose early, and having eaten nothing +yesterday except his scanty meal of flour and berries felt the +inconveniences of extreme hunger. On inquiry he found that his whole +stock of provisions consisted of two pounds of flour. This he ordered to +be divided into two equal parts, and one half of it boiled with the +berries into a sort of pudding: and after presenting a large share to +the chief, he and his three men breakfasted on the remainder. Cameahwait +was delighted at this new dish; he took a little of the flour in his +hand tasted and examined it very narrowly, asking if it was made of +roots; captain Lewis explained the process of preparing it, and he said +it was the best thing he had eaten for a long time. + +This being finished, captain Lewis now endeavoured to hasten the +departure of the Indians who still hesitated, and seemed reluctant to +move, although the chief addressed them twice for the purpose of urging +them: on inquiring the reason, Cameahwait told him that some foolish +person had suggested that he was in league with their enemies the +Pahkees, and had come only to draw them into ambuscade, but that he +himself did not believe it: captain Lewis felt uneasy at this +insinuation: he knew the suspicious temper of the Indians, accustomed +from their infancy to regard every stranger as an enemy, and saw that if +this suggestion were not instantly checked, it might hazard the total +failure of the enterprise. Assuming therefore a serious air, he told the +chief that he was sorry to find they placed so little confidence in him, +but that he pardoned their suspicions because they were ignorant of the +character of white men, among whom it was disgraceful to lie or entrap +even an enemy by falsehood; that if they continued to think thus meanly +of us they might be assured no white men would ever come to supply them +with arms and merchandize; that there was at this moment a party of +white men waiting to trade with them at the forks of the river; and that +if the greater part of the tribe entertained any suspicion, he hoped +there were still among them some who were men, who would go and see with +their own eyes the truth of what he said, and who, even if there was any +danger, were not afraid to die. To doubt the courage of an Indian is to +touch the tenderest string of his mind, and the surest way to rouse him +to any dangerous achievement. Cameahwait instantly replied, that he was +not afraid to die, and mounting his horse, for the third time harangued +the warriors: he told them that he was resolved to go if he went alone, +or if he were sure of perishing; that he hoped there were among those +who heard him some who were not afraid to die, and who would prove it by +mounting their horses and following him. This harangue produced an +effect on six or eight only of the warriors, who now joined their chief. +With these captain Lewis smoked a pipe, and then fearful of some change +in their capricious temper set out immediately. It was about twelve +o'clock when his small party left the camp, attended by Cameahwait and +the eight warriors; their departure seemed to spread a gloom over the +village; those who would not venture to go were sullen and melancholy, +and the woman were crying and imploring the Great Spirit to protect +their warriors as if they were going to certain destruction: yet such +is the wavering inconstancy of these savages, that captain Lewis's party +had not gone far when they were joined by ten or twelve more warriors, +and before reaching the creek which they had passed on the morning of +the 13th, all the men of the nation and a number of women had overtaken +them, and had changed from the surly ill temper in which they were two +hours ago, to the greatest cheerfulness and gayety. When they arrived at +the spring on the side of the mountain where the party had encamped on +the 12th, the chief insisted on halting to let the horses graze; to +which captain Lewis assented and smoked with them. They are excessively +fond of the pipe, in which however they are not able to indulge much as +they do not cultivate tobacco themselves, and their rugged country +affords them but few articles to exchange for it. Here they remained for +about an hour, and on setting out, by engaging to pay four of the party, +captain Lewis obtained permission for himself and each of his men to +ride behind an Indian; but he soon found riding without stirrup more +tiresome than walking, and therefore dismounted, making the Indian carry +his pack. About sunset they reached the upper part of the level valley +in the cove through which he had passed, and which they now called +Shoshonee cove. The grass being burnt on the north side of the river +they crossed over to the south, and encamped about four miles above the +narrow pass between the hills noticed as they traversed the cove before. +The river was here about six yards wide, and frequently dammed up by the +beaver. Drewyer had been sent forward to hunt, but he returned in the +evening unsuccessful, and their only supper therefore was the remaining +pound of flour stirred in a little boiling water and then divided +between the four white men and two of the Indians. + +In order not to exhaust the strength of the men, captain Clarke did not +leave his camp till after breakfast. Although, he was scarcely half a +mile below the Rattlesnake cliffs he was obliged to make a circuit of +two miles by water before he reached them. The river now passed between +low and rugged mountains and cliffs formed of a mixture of limestone and +a hard black rock, with no covering except a few scattered pines. At the +distance of four miles is a bold little stream which throws itself from +the mountains down a steep precipice of rocks on the left. One mile +farther is a second point of rocks, and an island, about a mile beyond +which is a creek on the right, ten yards wide and three feet three +inches in depth, with a strong current: we called it Willard's creek +after one of our men, Alexander Willard. Three miles beyond this creek, +after passing a high cliff on the right opposite to a steep hill, we +reached a small meadow on the left bank of the river. During its passage +through these hills to Willard's creek the river had been less torturous +than usual, so that in the first six miles to Willard's creek we had +advanced four miles on our route. We continued on for two miles, till we +reached in the evening a small bottom covered with clover and a few +cottonwood trees: here we passed the night near the remains of some old +Indian lodges of brush. The river is as it has been for some days +shallow and rapid; and our men, who are for hours together in the river, +suffer not only from fatigue, but from the extreme coldness of the +water, the temperature of which is as low as that of the freshest +springs in our country. In walking along the side of the river, captain +Clarke was very near being bitten twice by rattlesnakes, and the Indian +woman narrowly escaped the same misfortune. We caught a number of fine +trout; but the only game procured to-day was a buck, which had a +peculiarly bitter taste, proceeding probably from its favourite food, +the willow. + +Friday, 16. As neither our party nor the Indians had any thing to eat, +captain Lewis sent two of his hunters ahead this morning to procure some +provision: at the same time he requested Cameahwait to prevent his young +men from going out, lest by their noise they might alarm the game; but +this measure immediately revived their suspicions: it now began to be +believed that these men were sent forward in order to apprise the enemy +of their coming, and as captain Lewis was fearful of exciting any +further uneasiness, he made no objection on seeing a small party of +Indians go on each side of the valley under pretence of hunting, but in +reality to watch the movements of our two men: even this precaution +however did not quiet the alarms of the Indians, a considerable part of +whom returned home, leaving only twenty-eight men and three women. After +the hunters had been gone about an hour, captain Lewis again mounted +with one of the Indians behind him, and the whole party set out; but +just as they passed through the narrows they saw one of the spies coming +back at full speed across the plain: the chief stopped and seemed +uneasy, the whole band were moved with fresh suspicions, and captain +Lewis himself was much disconcerted, lest by some unfortunate accident +some of their enemies might have perhaps straggled that way. The young +Indian had scarcely breath to say a few words as he came up, when the +whole troop dashed forward as fast as their horses could carry them, and +captain Lewis astonished at this movement was borne along for nearly a +mile before he learnt with great satisfaction that it was all caused by +the spy's having come to announce that one of the white men had killed a +deer. Relieved from his anxiety he now found the jolting very +uncomfortable; for the Indian behind him being afraid of not getting his +share of the feast had lashed the horse at every step since they set +off; he therefore reined him in and ordered the Indian to stop beating +him. The fellow had no idea of losing time in disputing the point, and +jumping off the horse ran for a mile at full speed. Captain Lewis +slackened his pace, and followed at a sufficient distance to observe +them. When they reached the place where Drewyer had thrown out the +intestines, they all dismounted in confusion and ran tumbling over each +other like famished dogs: each tore away whatever part he could and +instantly began to eat it; some had the liver, some the kidneys, in +short no part on which we are accustomed to look with disgust escaped +them: one of them who had seized about nine feet of the entrails was +chewing at one end, while with his hand he was diligently clearing his +way by discharging the contents at the other. It was indeed impossible +to see these wretches ravenously feeding on the filth of animals, and +the blood streaming from their mouths, without deploring how nearly the +condition of savages approaches that of the brute creation: yet though +suffering with hunger they did not attempt, as they might have done, to +take by force the whole deer, but contented themselves with what had +been thrown away by the hunter. Captain Lewis now had the deer skinned, +and after reserving a quarter of it gave the rest of the animal to the +chief to be divided among the Indians, who immediately devoured nearly +the whole of it without cooking. They now went forward towards the creek +where there was some brushwood to make a fire, and found Drewyer who had +killed a second deer: the same struggle for the entrails was renewed +here, and on giving nearly the whole deer to the Indians, they devoured +it even to the soft part of the hoofs. A fire being made captain Lewis +had his breakfast, during which Drewyer brought in a third deer: this +too, after reserving one quarter, was given to the Indians, who now +seemed completely satisfied and in good humour. At this place they +remained about two hours to let the horses graze, and then continued +their journey, and towards evening reached the lower part of the cove +having on the way shot an antelope, the greater part of which was given +to the Indians. As they were now approaching the place where they had +been told by Captain Lewis they would see the white men, the chief +insisted on halting: they therefore all dismounted, and Cameahwait with +great ceremony and as if for ornament, put tippets or skins round the +necks of our party, similar to those worn by themselves. As this was +obviously intended to disguise the white men, captain Lewis in order to +inspire them with more confidence put his cocked hat and feather on the +head of the chief, and as his own over-shirt was in the Indian form, and +his skin browned by the sun, he could not have been distinguished from +an Indian: the men followed his example, and the change seemed to be +very agreeable* to the Indians. + +In order to guard however against any disappointment captain Lewis again +explained the possibility of our not having reached the forks in +consequence of the difficulty of the navigation, so that if they should +not find us at that spot they might be assured of our not being far +below. They again all mounted their horses and rode on rapidly, making +one of the Indians carry their flag, so that we might recognise them as +they approached us; but to the mortification and disappointment of both +parties on coming within two miles of the forks, no canoes were to be +seen. Uneasy lest at this moment he should be abandoned, and all his +hopes of obtaining aid from the Indians be destroyed, captain Lewis gave +the chief his gun, telling him that if the enemies of his nation were in +the bushes he might defend himself with it; that for his own part he was +not afraid to die, and that the chief might shoot him as soon as they +discovered themselves betrayed. The other three men at the same time +gave their guns to the Indians, who now seemed more easy, but still +wavered in their resolutions. As they went on towards the point, captain +Lewis perceiving how critical his situation had become, resolved to +attempt a stratagem which his present difficulty seemed completely to +justify. Recollecting the notes he had left at the point for us, he sent +Drewyer for them with an Indian who witnessed his taking them from the +pole. When they were brought, captain Lewis told Cameahwait that on +leaving his brother chief at the place where the river issues from the +mountains, it was agreed that the boats should not be brought higher +than the next forks we should meet; but that if the rapid water +prevented the boats from coming on as fast as they expected, his brother +chief was to send a note to the first forks above him to let him know +where the boats were; that this note had been left this morning at the +forks, and mentioned that the canoes were just below the mountains, and +coming slowly up in consequence of the current. Captain Lewis added, +that he would stay at the forks for his brother chief, but would send a +man down the river, and that if Cameahwait doubted what he said, one of +their young men would go with him whilst he and the other two remained +at the forks. This story satisfied the chief and the greater part of the +Indians, but a few did not conceal their suspicion, observing that we +told different stories, and complaining that the chief exposed them to +danger by a mistaken confidence. Captain Lewis now wrote by the light of +some willow brush a note to captain Clarke, which he gave to Drewyer, +with an order to use all possible expedition in ascending the river, and +engaged an Indian to accompany him by a promise of a knife and some +beads. At bedtime the chief and five others slept round the fire of +captain Lewis, and the rest hid themselves in different parts of the +willow brush to avoid the enemy, who they feared would attack them in +the night. Captain Lewis endeavoured to assume a cheerfulness he did not +feel to prevent the despondency of the savages: after conversing gayly +with them he retired to his musquitoe bier, by the side of which the +chief now placed himself: he lay down, yet slept but little, being in +fact scarcely less uneasy than his Indian companions. He was +apprehensive that finding the ascent of the river impracticable, captain +Clarke might have stopped below the Rattlesnake bluff, and the messenger +would not meet him. The consequence of disappointing the Indians at this +moment would most probably be, that they would retire and secrete +themselves in the mountains, so as to prevent our having an opportunity +of recovering their confidence: they would also spread a panic through +all the neighbouring Indians, and cut us off from the supply of horses +so useful and almost so essential to our success: he was at the same +time consoled by remembering that his hopes of assistance rested on +better foundations than their generosity--their avarice, and their +curiosity. He had promised liberal exchanges for their horses; but what +was still move seductive, he had told them that one of their +country-women who had been taken with the Minnetarees accompanied the +party below; and one of the men had spread the report of our having with +us a man perfectly black, whose hair was short and curled. This last +account had excited a great degree of curiosity, and they seemed more +desirous of seeing this monster than of obtaining the most favourable +barter for their horses. + +In the meantime we had set out after breakfast, and although we +proceeded with more ease than we did yesterday, the river was still so +rapid and shallow as to oblige us to drag the large canoes during the +greater part of the day. For the first seven miles the river formed a +bend to the right so as to make our advance only three miles in a +straight line; the stream is crooked, narrow, small, and shallow, with +highlands occasionally on the banks, and strewed with islands, four of +which are opposite to each other. Near this place we left the valley, to +which we gave the name of Serviceberry valley, from the abundance of +that fruit now ripe which is found in it. In the course of the four +following miles we passed several more islands and bayous on each side +of the river, and reached a high cliff on the right. Two and a half +miles beyond this the cliffs approach on both sides and form a very +considerable rapid near the entrance of a bold running stream on the +left. The water was now excessively cold, and the rapids had been +frequent and troublesome. On ascending an eminence captain Clarke saw +the forks of the river and sent the hunters up. They must have left it +only a short time before captain Lewis's arrival, but fortunately had +not seen the note which enabled him to induce the Indians to stay with +him. From the top of this eminence he could discover only three trees +through the whole country, nor was there along the sides of the cliffs +they had passed in the course of the day, any timber except a few small +pines: the low grounds were supplied with willow, currant bushes, and +serviceberries. After advancing half a mile further we came to the lower +point of an island near the middle of the river, and about the centre of +the valley: here we halted for the night, only four miles by land, +though ten by water, below the point where captain Lewis lay. Although +we had made only fourteen miles, the labours of the men had fatigued and +exhausted them very much: we therefore collected some small willow brush +for a fire, and lay down to sleep. + + + + + CHAPTER XV. + + Affecting interview between the wife of Chaboneau and the chief of + the Shoshonees--Council held with that nation, and favourable + result--The extreme navigable point of the Missouri + mentioned--General character of the river and of the country + through which it passes--Captain Clarke in exploring the source of + the Columbia falls in company with another party of Shoshonees--The + geographical information acquired from one of that party--Their + manner of catching fish--The party reach Lewis river--The + difficulties which captain Clarke had to encounter in his + route--Friendship and hospitality of the Shoshonees--The party with + captain Lewis employed in making saddles, and preparing for the + journey. + + +Saturday, August 17. Captain Lewis rose very early and despatched +Drewyer and the Indian down the river in quest of the boats. Shields was +sent out at the same time to hunt, while M'Neal prepared a breakfast out +of the remainder of the meat. Drewyer had been gone about two hours, and +the Indians were all anxiously waiting for some news, when an Indian who +had straggled a short distance down the river, returned with a report +that he had seen the white men, who were only a short distance below, +and were coming on. The Indians were all transported with joy, and the +chief in the warmth of his satisfaction renewed his embrace to captain +Lewis, who was quite as much delighted as the Indians themselves; the +report proved most agreeably true. On setting out at seven o'clock, +captain Clarke with Chaboneau and his wife walked on shore, but they had +not gone more than a mile before captain Clarke saw Sacajawea, who was +with her husband one hundred yards ahead, began to dance, and show every +mark of the most extravagant joy, turning round him and pointing to +several Indians, whom he now saw advancing on horseback, sucking her +fingers at the same time to indicate that they were of her native tribe. +As they advanced captain Clarke discovered among them Drewyer dressed +like an Indian, from whom he learnt the situation of the party. While +the boats were performing the circuit, he went towards the forks with +the Indians, who as they went along, sang aloud with the greatest +appearance of delight. We soon drew near to the camp, and just as we +approached it a woman made her way through the crowd towards Sacajawea, +and recognising each other, they embraced with the most tender +affection. The meeting of these two young women had in it something +peculiarly touching, not only in the ardent manner in which their +feelings were expressed, but from the real interest of their situation. +They had been companions in childhood, in the war with the Minnetarees +they had both been taken prisoners in the same battle, they had shared +and softened the rigours of their captivity, till one of them had +escaped from the Minnetarees, with scarce a hope of ever seeing her +friend relieved from the hands of her enemies. While Sacajawea was +renewing among the women the friendships of former days, captain Clarke +went on, and was received by captain Lewis and the chief, who after the +first embraces and salutations were over, conducted him to a sort of +circular tent or shade of willows. Here he was seated on a white robe; +and the chief immediately tied in his hair six small shells resembling +pearls, an ornament highly valued by these people, who procured them in +the course of trade from the seacoast. The moccasins of the whole party +were then taken off, and after much ceremony the smoking began. After +this the conference was to be opened, and glad of an opportunity of +being able to converse more intelligibly, Sacajawea was sent for; she +came into the tent, sat down, and was beginning to interpret, when in +the person of Cameahwait she recognised her brother: she instantly +jumped up, and ran and embraced him, throwing over him her blanket and +weeping profusely; the chief was himself moved, though not in the same +degree. After some conversation between them she resumed her seat, and +attempted to interpret for us, but her new situation seemed to +overpower her, and she was frequently interrupted by her tears. After +the council was finished, the unfortunate woman learnt that all her +family were dead except two brothers, one of whom was absent, and a son +of her eldest sister, a small boy, who was immediately adopted by her. +The canoes arriving soon after, we formed a camp in a meadow on the left +side, a little below the forks; took out our baggage, and by means of +our sails and willow poles formed a canopy for our Indian visitors. +About four o'clock the chiefs and warriors were collected, and after the +customary ceremony of taking off the moccasins and smoking a pipe, we +explained to them in a long harangue the purposes of our visit, making +themselves one conspicuous object of the good wishes of our government, +on whose strength as well as its friendly disposition we expatiated. We +told them of their dependance on the will of our government for all +future supplies of whatever was necessary either for their comfort or +defence; that as we were sent to discover the best route by which +merchandize could be conveyed to them, and no trade would be begun +before our return, it was mutually advantageous that we should proceed +with as little delay as possible; that we were under the necessity of +requesting them to furnish us with horses to transport our baggage +across the mountains, and a guide to show us the route, but that they +should be amply remunerated for their horses, as well as for every other +service they should render us. In the meantime our first wish was, that +they should immediately collect as many horses as were necessary to +transport our baggage to their village, where, at our leisure we would +trade with them for as many horses as they could spare. + +The speech made a favourable impression: the chief in reply thanked us +for our expressions of friendship towards himself and his nation, and +declared their willingness to render us every service. He lamented that +it would be so long before they should be supplied with firearms, but +that till then they could subsist as they had heretofore done. He +concluded by saying that there were not horses here sufficient to +transport our goods, but that he would return to the village to-morrow, +and bring all his own horses, and encourage his people to come over with +theirs. The conference being ended to our satisfaction, we now inquired +of Cameahwait what chiefs were among the party, and he pointed out two +of them. We then distributed our presents: to Cameahwait we gave a medal +of the small size, with the likeness of president Jefferson, and on the +reverse a figure of hands clasped with a pipe and tomahawk: to this was +added an uniform coat, a shirt, a pair of scarlet leggings, a carrot of +tobacco, and some small articles. Each of the other chiefs received a +small medal struck during the presidency of general Washington, a shirt, +handkerchief, leggings, a knife, and some tobacco. Medals of the same +sort were also presented to two young warriors, who though not chiefs +were promising youths and very much respected in the tribe. These +honorary gifts were followed by presents of paint, moccasins, awls, +knives, beads and looking-glasses. We also gave them all a plentiful +meal of Indian corn, of which the hull is taken off by being boiled in +lye; and as this was the first they had ever tasted, they were very much +pleased with it. They had indeed abundant sources of surprise in all +they saw: the appearance of the men, their arms, their clothing, the +canoes, the strange looks of the negro, and the sagacity of our dog, all +in turn shared their admiration, which was raised to astonishment by a +shot from the airgun: this operation was instantly considered as a +_great medicine_, by which they as well as the other Indians mean +something emanating directly from the Great Spirit, or produced by his +invisible and incomprehensible agency. The display of all these riches +had been intermixed with inquiries into the geographical situation of +their country; for we had learnt by experience, that to keep the savages +in good temper their attention should not be wearied with too much +business; but that the serious affairs should be enlivened by a mixture +of what is new and entertaining. Our hunters brought in very seasonably +four deer and an antelope, the last of which we gave to the Indians, who +in a very short time devoured it. After the council was over, we +consulted as to our future operations. The game does not promise to last +here for a number of days, and this circumstance combined with many +others to induce our going on as soon as possible. Our Indian +information as to the state of the Columbia is of a very alarming kind, +and our first object is of course to ascertain the practicability of +descending it, of which the Indians discourage our expectations. It was +therefore agreed that captain Clarke should set off in the morning with +eleven men, furnished, besides their arms, with tools for making canoes; +that he should take Chaboneau and his wife to the camp of the +Shoshonees, where he was to leave them, in order to hasten the +collection of horses; that he was then to lead his men down to the +Columbia, and if he found it navigable, and the timber in sufficient +quantity, begin to build canoes. As soon as he had decided as to the +propriety of proceeding down the Columbia or across the mountains, he +was to send back one of the men with information of it to captain Lewis, +who by that time would have brought up the whole party, and the rest of +the baggage as far as the Shoshonee village. + +Preparations were accordingly made this evening for such an arrangement. +The sun is excessively hot in the day time, but the nights very cold, +and rendered still more unpleasant from the want of any fuel except +willow brush. The appearances too of game, for many days' subsistence, +are not very favourable. + +Sunday 18. In order to relieve the men of captain Clarke's party from +the heavy weight of their arms provisions and tools, we exposed a few +articles to barter for horses, and soon obtained three very good ones, +in exchange for which we gave a uniform coat, a pair of leggings, a few +handkerchiefs, three knifes and some other small articles, the whole of +which did not in the United States cost more than twenty dollars: a +fourth was purchased by the men for an old checkered shirt, a pair of +old leggings and a knife. The Indians seemed to be quite as well pleased +as ourselves at the bargains they had made. We now found that the two +inferior chiefs were somewhat displeased at not having received a +present equal to that given to the great chief, who appeared in a dress +so much finer than their own. To allay their discontent, we bestowed on +them two old coats, and promised them that if they were active in +assisting us across the mountains they should have an additional +present. This treatment completely reconciled them, and the whole Indian +party, except two men and two women, set out in perfect good humour to +return home with captain Clarke. After going fifteen miles through a +wide level valley with no wood but willows and shrubs, he encamped in +the Shoshonee cove near a narrow pass where the highlands approach +within two hundred yards of each other, and the river is only ten yards +wide. The Indians went on further, except the three chiefs and two young +men, who assisted in eating two deer brought in by the hunters. After +their departure every thing was prepared for the transportation of the +baggage, which was now exposed to the air and dried. Our game was one +deer and a beaver, and we saw an abundance of trout in the river for +which we fixed a net in the evening. + +We have now reached the extreme navigable point of the Missouri, which +our observation places in latitude 43° 30' 43" north. It is difficult to +comprise in any general description the characteristics of a river so +extensive, and fed by so many streams which have their sources in a +great variety of soils and climates. But the Missouri is still +sufficiently powerful to give to all its waters something of a common +character, which is of course decided by the nature of the country +through which it passes. The bed of the river is chiefly composed of a +blue mud from which the water itself derives a deep tinge. From its +junction here to the place near which it leaves the mountains, its +course is embarrassed by rapids and rocks which the hills on each side +have thrown into its channel. From that place, its current, with the +exception of the falls, is not difficult of navigation, nor is there +much variation in its appearance till the mouth of the Platte. That +powerful river throws out vast quantities of coarse sand which +contribute to give a new face to the Missouri, which is now much more +impeded by islands. The sand, as it is drifted down, adheres in time to +some of the projecting points from the shore, and forms a barrier to the +mud, which at length fills to the same height with the sandbar itself; +as soon as it has acquired a consistency, the willow grows there the +first year, and by its roots assists the solidity of the whole: as the +mud and sand accumulate the cottonwood tree next appears; till the +gradual excretion of soils raises the surface of the point above the +highest freshets. Thus stopped in its course the water seeks a passage +elsewhere, and as the soil on each side is light and yielding, what was +only a peninsula, becomes gradually an island, and the river indemnifies +itself for the usurpation by encroaching on the adjacent shore. In this +way the Missouri like the Mississippi is constantly cutting off the +projections of the shore, and leaving its ancient channel, which is then +marked by the mud it has deposited and a few stagnant ponds. + +The general appearance of the country as it presents itself on ascending +may be thus described: From its mouth to the two Charletons, a ridge of +highlands borders the river at a small distance, leaving between them +fine rich meadows. From the mouth of the two Charletons the hills recede +from the river, giving greater extent to the low grounds, but they again +approach the river for a short distance near Grand river, and again at +Snake creek. From that point they retire, nor do they come again to the +neighbourhood of the river till above the Sauk prairie, where they are +comparatively low and small. Thence they diverge and reappear at the +Charaton Searty, after which they are scarcely if at all discernible, +till they advance to the Missouri nearly opposite to the Kanzas. + +The same ridge of hills extends on the south side, in almost one +unbroken chain, from the mouth of the Missouri to the Kanzas, though +decreasing in height beyond the Osage. As they are nearer the river than +the hills on the opposite sides, the intermediate low grounds are of +course narrower, but the general character of the soil is common to both +sides. + +In the meadows and along the shore, the tree most common is the +cottonwood, which with the willow forms almost the exclusive growth of +the Missouri. The hills or rather high grounds, for they do not rise +higher than from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet, are composed +of a good rich black soil, which is perfectly susceptible of +cultivation, though it becomes richer on the hills beyond the Platte, +and are in general thinly covered with timber. Beyond these hills the +country extends into high open plains, which are on both sides +sufficiently fertile, but the south has the advantage of better streams +of water, and may therefore be considered as preferable for settlements. +The lands, however, become much better and the timber more abundant +between the Osage and the Kanzas. From the Kanzas to the Nadawa the +hills continue at nearly an equal distance, varying from four to eight +miles from each other, except that from the little Platte to nearly +opposite the ancient Kanzas village, the hills are more remote, and the +meadows of course wider on the north side of the river. From the Nadawa +the northern hills disappear, except at occasional intervals, where they +are seen at a distance, till they return about twenty-seven miles above +the Platte near the ancient village of the Ayoways. On the south the +hills continue close to the river from the ancient village of the Kanzas +up to Council bluff, fifty miles beyond the Platte; forming high +prairie lands. On both sides the lands are good, and perhaps this +distance from the Osage to the Platte may be recommended as among the +best districts on the Missouri for the purposes of settlers. + +From the Ayoway village the northern hills again retire from the river, +to which they do not return till three hundred and twenty miles above, +at Floyd's river. The hills on the south also leave the river at Council +bluffs, and reappear at the Mahar village, two hundred miles up the +Missouri. The country thus abandoned by the hills is more open and the +timber in smaller quantities than below the Platte, so that although the +plain is rich and covered with high grass, the want of wood renders it +less calculated for cultivation than below that river. + +The northern hills after remaining near the Missouri for a few miles at +Floyd's river, recede from it at the Sioux river, the course of which +they follow; and though they again visit the Missouri at Whitestone +river, where they are low, yet they do not return to it till beyond +James river. The highlands on the south, after continuing near the river +at the Mahar villages, again disappear, and do not approach it till the +Cobalt bluffs, about forty-four miles from the villages, and then from +those bluffs to the Yellowstone river, a distance of about one thousand +miles, they follow the banks of the river with scarcely any deviation. + +From the James river, the lower grounds are confined within a narrow +space by the hills on both sides, which now continue near each other up +to the mountains. The space between them however varies from one to +three miles as high as the Muscleshell river, from which the hills +approach so high as to leave scarcely any low grounds on the river, and +near the falls reach the waters edge. Beyond the falls the hills are +scattered and low to the first range of mountains. + +The soil during the whole length of the Missouri below the Platte is +generally speaking very fine, and although the timber is scarce, there +is still sufficient for the purposes of settlers; But beyond that river, +although the soil is still rich, yet the almost total absence of timber, +and particularly the want of good water, of which there is but a small +quantity in the creeks, and even that brackish, oppose powerful +obstacles to its settlement. The difficulty becomes still greater +between the Muscleshell river and the falls, where besides the greater +scarcity of timber, the country itself is less fertile. + +The elevation of these highlands varies as they pass through this +extensive tract of country. From Wood river they are about one hundred +and fifty feet above the water, and continue at that height till they +rise near the Osage, from which place to the ancient fortification they +again diminish in size. Thence they continue higher till the Mandan +village, after which they are rather lower till the neighbourhood of +Muscleshell river, where they are met by the Northern hills, which have +advanced at a more uniform height, varying from one hundred and fifty to +two hundred or three hundred feet. From this place to the mountains the +height of both is nearly the same, from three hundred to five hundred +feet, and the low grounds so narrow that the traveller seems passing +through a range of high country. From Maria's river to the falls, the +hills descend to the height of about two or three hundred feet. + +Monday 19. The morning was cold, and the grass perfectly whitened by the +frost. We were engaged in preparing packs and saddles to load the horses +as soon as they should arrive. A beaver was caught in a trap, but we +were disappointed in trying to catch trout in our net; we therefore made +a seine of willow brush, and by hauling it procured a number of fine +trout, and a species of mullet which we had not seen before: it is about +sixteen inches long, the scales small; the nose long, obtusely pointed, +and exceeding the under jaw; the mouth opens with folds at the sides; it +has no teeth, and the tongue and palate is smooth. The colour of its +back and sides is a bluish brown, while the belly is white: it has the +faggot bones, whence we concluded it to be of the mullet species. It is +by no means so well flavoured a fish as the trout, which are the same as +those we first saw at the falls, larger than the speckled trout of the +mountains in the Atlantic states, and equally well flavoured. In the +evening the hunters returned with two deer. + +Captain Clarke, in the meantime, proceeded through a wide level valley, +in which the chief pointed out a spot where many of his tribe were +killed in battle a year ago. The Indians accompanied him during the day, +and as they had nothing to eat, he was obliged to feed them from his own +stores, the hunters not being able to kill any thing. Just as he was +entering the mountains, he met an Indian with two mules and a Spanish +saddle, who was so polite as to offer one of them to him to ride over +the hills. Being on foot, captain Clarke accepted his offer and gave him +a waistcoat as a reward for his civility. He encamped for the night on a +small stream, and the next morning, + +Tuesday, August 20, he set out at six o'clock. In passing through a +continuation of the hilly broken country, he met several parties of +Indians. On coming near the camp, which had been removed since we left +them two miles higher up the river, Cameahwait requested that the party +should halt. This was complied with: a number of Indians came out from +the camp, and with great ceremony several pipes were smoked. This being +over captain Clarke was conducted to a large leathern lodge prepared for +his party in the middle of the encampment, the Indians having only +shelters of willow bushes. A few dried berries, and one salmon, the only +food the whole village could contribute, were then presented to him; +after which he proceeded to repeat in council, what had been already +told them, the purposes of his visit; urged them to take their horses +over and assist in transporting our baggage, and expressed a wish to +obtain a guide to examine the river. This was explained and enforced to +the whole village by Cameahwait, and an old man was pointed out who was +said to know more of their geography to the north than any other person, +and whom captain Clarke engaged to accompany him. After explaining his +views he distributed a few presents, the council was ended, and nearly +half the village set out to hunt the antelope, but returned without +success. + +Captain Clarke in the meantime made particular inquiries as to the +situation of the country, and the possibility of soon reaching a +navigable water. The chief began by drawing on the ground a delineation +of the rivers, from which it appeared that his information was very +limited. The river on which the camp is he divided into two branches +just above us, which, as he indicated by the opening of the mountains, +were in view: he next made it discharge itself into a larger river ten +miles below, coming from the southwest: the joint stream continued one +day's march to the northwest, and then inclined to the westward for two +day's march farther. At that place he placed several heaps of sand on +each side, which, as he explained them, represented, vast mountains of +rock always covered with snow, in passing through which the river was so +completely hemmed in by the high rocks, that there was no possibility of +travelling along the shore; that the bed of the river was obstructed by +sharp-pointed rocks, and such its rapidity, that as far as the eye could +reach it presented a perfect column of foam. The mountains he said were +equally inaccessible, as neither man nor horse could cross them; that +such being the state of the country neither he nor any of his nation had +ever attempted to go beyond the mountains. Cameahwait said also that he +had been informed by the Chopunnish, or pierced-nose Indians, who reside +on this river west of the mountains, that it ran a great way towards the +setting sun, and at length lost itself in a great lake of water which +was ill-tasted, and where the white men lived. An Indian belonging to a +band of Shoshonees who live to the southwest, and who happened to be at +camp, was then brought in, and inquiries made of him as to the +situation of the country in that direction: this he described in terms +scarcely less terrible than those in which Cameahwait had represented +the west. He said that his relations lived at the distance of twenty +days' march from this place, on a course a little to the west of south +and not far from the whites, with whom they traded for horses, mules, +cloth, metal, beads, and the shells here worn as ornaments, and which +are those of a species of pearl oyster. In order to reach his country we +should be obliged during the first seven days to climb over steep rocky +mountains where there was no game, and we should find nothing but roots +for subsistence. Even for these however we should be obliged to contend +with a fierce warlike people, whom he called the Broken-moccasin, or +moccasin with holes, who lived like bears in holes, and fed on roots and +the flesh of such horses as they could steal or plunder from those who +passed through the mountains. So rough indeed was the passage, that the +feet of the horses would be wounded in such a manner that many of them +would be unable to proceed. The next part of the route was for ten days +through a dry parched desert of sand, inhabited by no animal which would +supply us with subsistence, and as the sun had now scorched up the grass +and dried up the small pools of water which are sometimes scattered +through this desert in the spring, both ourselves and our horses would +perish for want of food and water. About the middle of this plain a +large river passes from southeast to northwest, which, though navigable, +afforded neither timber nor salmon. Three or four days' march beyond +this plain his relations lived, in a country tolerably fertile and +partially covered with timber, on another large river running in the +same direction as the former; that this last discharges itself into a +third large river, on which resided many numerous nations, with whom his +own were at war, but whether this last emptied itself into the great or +stinking lake, as they called the ocean, he did not know: that from his +country to the stinking lake was a great distance, and that the route +to it, taken by such of his relations as had visited it, was up the +river on which they lived, and over to that on which the white people +lived, and which they knew discharged itself into the ocean. This route +he advised us to take, but added, that we had better defer the journey +till spring, when he would himself conduct us. This account persuaded us +that the streams of which he spoke were southern branches of the +Columbia, heading with the Rio des Apostolos, and Rio Colorado, and that +the route which he mentioned was to the gulf of California: captain +Clarke therefore told him that this road was too much towards the south +for our purpose, and then requested to know if there was no route on the +left of the river where we now are, by which we might intercept it below +the mountains; but he knew of none except that through the barren +plains, which he said joined the mountains on that side, and through +which it was impossible to pass at this season, even if we were +fortunate enough to escape the Broken-moccasin Indians. Captain Clarke +recompensed the Indian by a present of a knife, with which he seemed +much gratified, and now inquired of Cameahwait by what route the +Pierced-nose Indians, who he said lived west of the mountains, crossed +over to the Missouri: this he said was towards the north, but that the +road was a very bad one; that during the passage he had been told they +suffered excessively from hunger, being obliged to subsist for many days +on berries alone, there being no game in that part of the mountains, +which were broken and rocky, and so thickly covered with timber that +they could scarcely pass. Surrounded by difficulties as all the other +routes are, this seems to be the most practicable of all the passages by +land, since, if the Indians can pass the mountains with their women and +children, no difficulties which they could encounter could be formidable +to us; and if the Indians below the mountains are so numerous as they +are represented to be, they must have some means of subsistence equally +within our power. They tell us indeed that the nations to the westward +subsist principally on fish and roots, and that their only game were a +few elk, deer, and antelope, there being no buffaloe west of the +mountain. The first inquiry however was to ascertain the truth of their +information relative to the difficulty of descending the river: for this +purpose captain Clarke set out at three o'clock in the afternoon, +accompanied by the guide and all his men, except one whom he left with +orders to purchase a horse and join him as soon as possible. At the +distance of four miles he crossed the river, and eight miles from the +camp halted for the night at a small stream. The road which he followed +was a beaten path through a wide rich meadow, in which were several old +lodges. On the route he met a number of men, women, and children, as +well as horses, and one of the men who appeared to possess some +consideration turned back with him, and observing a woman with three +salmon obtained them from her, and presented them to the party. Captain +Clarke shot a mountain cock or cock of the plains, a dark brown bird +larger than the dunghill fowl, with a long and pointed tail, and a +fleshy protuberance about the base of the upper chop, something like +that of the turkey, though without the snout. In the morning, + +Wednesday 21, he resumed his march early, and at the distance of five +miles reached an Indian lodge of brush, inhabited by seven families of +Shoshonees. They behaved with great civility, gave the whole party as +much boiled salmon as they could eat, and added as a present several +dried salmon and a considerable quantity of chokecherries. After smoking +with them all he visited the fish weir, which was about two hundred +yards distant; the river was here divided by three small islands, which +occasioned the water to pass along four channels. Of these three were +narrow, and stopped by means of trees which were stretched across, and +supported by willow stakes, sufficiently near each other to prevent the +passage of the fish. About the centre of each was placed a basket +formed of willows, eighteen or twenty feet in length, of a cylindrical +form, and terminating in a conic shape at its lower extremity; this was +situated with its mouth upwards, opposite to an aperture in the weir. +The main channel of the water was then conducted to this weir, and as +the fish entered it they were so entangled with each other that they +could not move, and were taken out by untying the small end of the +willow basket. The weir in the main channel was formed in a manner +somewhat different; there were in fact two distinct weirs formed of +poles and willow sticks quite across the river, approaching each other +obliquely with an aperture in each side near the angle. This is made by +tying a number of poles together at the top, in parcels of three, which +were then set up in a triangular form at the base, two of the poles +being in the range desired for the weir, and the third down the stream. +To these poles two ranges of other poles are next lashed horizontally, +with willow bark and wythes, and willow sticks joined in with these +crosswise, so as to form a kind of wicker-work from the bottom of the +river to the height of three or four feet above the surface of the +water. This is so thick as to prevent the fish from passing, and even in +some parts with the help of a little gravel and some stone enables them +to give any direction which they wish to the water. These two weirs +being placed near to each other, one for the purpose of catching the +fish as they ascend, the other as they go down the river, is provided +with two baskets made in the form already described, and which are +placed at the apertures of the weir. After examining these curious +objects, he returned to the lodges, and soon passed the river to the +left, where an Indian brought him a tomahawk which he said he had found +in the grass, near the lodge where captain Lewis had staid on his first +visit to the village. This was a tomahawk which had been missed at the +time, and supposed to be stolen; it was however the only article which +had been lost in our intercourse with the nation, and as even that was +returned the inference is highly honourable to the integrity of the +Shoshonees. On leaving the lodges captain Clarke crossed to the left +side of the river, and despatched five men to the forks of it, in search +of the man left behind yesterday, who procured a horse and passed by +another road as they learnt, to the forks. At the distance of fourteen +miles they killed a very large salmon, two and a half feet long, in a +creek six miles below the forks: and after travelling about twenty miles +through the valley, following the course of the river, which runs nearly +northwest, halted in a small meadow on the right side, under a cliff of +rocks. Here they were joined by the five men who had gone in quest of +Crusatte. They had been to the forks of the river, where the natives +resort in great numbers for the purpose of gigging fish, of which they +made our men a present of five fresh salmon. In addition to this food, +one deer was killed to-day. The western branch of this river is much +larger than the eastern, and after we passed the junction we found the +river about one hundred yards in width, rapid and shoaly, but containing +only a small quantity of timber. As captain Lewis was the first white +man who visited its waters, captain Clarke gave it the name of Lewis's +river. The low grounds through which he had passed to-day were rich and +wide, but at his camp this evening the hills begin to assume a +formidable aspect. The cliff under which he lay is of a reddish brown +colour, the rocks which have fallen from it are a dark brown flintstone. +Near the place are gullies of white sandstone, and quantities of a fine +sand, of a snowy whiteness: the mountains on each side are high and +rugged, with some pine trees scattered over them. + +Thursday 22. He soon began to perceive that the Indian accounts had not +exaggerated: at the distance of a mile he passed a small creek, and the +points of four mountains, which were rocky, and so high that it seemed +almost impossible to cross them with horses. The road lay over the sharp +fragments of rocks which had fallen from the mountains, and were strewed +in heaps for miles together, yet the horses altogether unshod, +travelled across them as fast as the men, and without detaining them a +moment. They passed two bold-running streams, and reached the entrance +of a small river, where a few Indian families resided. They had not been +previously acquainted with the arrival of the whites, the guide was +behind, and the wood so thick that we came upon them unobserved, till at +a very short distance. As soon as they saw us, the women and children +fled in great consternation; the men offered us every thing they had, +the fish on the scaffolds, the dried berries and the collars of elk's +tushes worn by the children. We took only a small quantity of the food, +and gave them in return some small articles which conduced very much to +pacify them. The guide now coming up, explained to them who we were, and +the object of our visit, which seemed to relieve the fears, but still a +number of the women and children did not recover from their fright, but +cryed during our stay, which lasted about an hour. The guide, whom we +found a very intelligent friendly old man, informed us that up this +river there was a road which led over the mountains to the Missouri. On +resuming his route, he went along the steep side of a mountain about +three miles, and then reached the river near a small island, at the +lower part of which he encamped; he here attempted to gig some fish, but +could only obtain one small salmon. The river is here shoal and rapid, +with many rocks scattered in various directions through its bed. On the +sides of the mountains are some scattered pines, and of those on the +left the tops are covered with them; there are however but few in the +low grounds through which they passed, indeed they have seen only a +single tree fit to make a canoe, and even that was small. The country +has an abundant growth of berries, and we met several women and children +gathering them who bestowed them upon us with great liberality. Among +the woods captain Clarke observed a species of woodpecker, the beak and +tail of which were white, the wings black, and every other part of the +body of a dark brown; its size was that of the robin, and it fed on the +seeds of the pine. + +Friday 23. Captain Clarke set off very early, but as his route lay along +the steep side of a mountain, over irregular and broken masses of rocks, +which wounded the horses' feet, he was obliged to proceed slowly. At the +distance of four miles he reached the river, but the rocks here became +so steep, and projected so far into the river, that there was no mode of +passing, except through the water. This he did for some distance, though +the river was very rapid, and so deep that they were forced to swim +their horses. After following the edge of the water for about a mile +under this steep cliff, he reached a small meadow, below which the whole +current of the river beat against the right shore on which he was, and +which was formed of a solid rock perfectly inaccessible to horses. Here +too, the little track which he had been pursuing terminated. He +therefore resolved to leave the horses and the greater part of the men +at this place, and examine the river still further, in order to +determine if there were any possibility of descending it in canoes. +Having killed nothing except a single goose to-day, and the whole of our +provision being consumed last evening, it was by no means advisable to +remain any length of time where they were. He now directed the men to +fish and hunt at this place till his return, and then with his guide and +three men he proceeded, clambering over immense rocks, and along the +side of lofty precipices which bordered the river, when at about twelve +miles distance he reached a small meadow, the first he had seen on the +river since he left his party. A little below this meadow, a large creek +twelve yards wide, and of some depth, discharges itself from the north. +Here were some recent signs of an Indian encampment, and the tracks of a +number of horses, who must have come along a plain Indian path, which he +now saw following the course of the creek. This stream his guide said +led towards a large river running to the north, and was frequented by +another nation for the purpose of catching fish. He remained here two +hours, and having taken some small fish, made a dinner on them with the +addition of a few berries. From the place where he had left the party, +to the mouth of this creek, it presents one continued rapid, in which +are five shoals, neither of which could be passed with loaded canoes; +and the baggage must therefore be transported for a considerable +distance over the steep mountains, where it would be impossible to +employ horses for the relief of the men. Even the empty canoes must be +let down the rapids by means of cords, and not even in that way without +great risk both to the canoes as well as to the men. At one of these +shoals, indeed the rocks rise so perpendicularly from the water as to +leave no hope of a passage or even a portage without great labour in +removing rocks, and in some instances cutting away the earth. To +surmount these difficulties would exhaust the strength of the party, and +what is equally discouraging would waste our time and consume our +provisions, of neither of which have we much to spare. The season is now +far advanced, and the Indians tell us we shall shortly have snow: the +salmon too have so far declined that the natives themselves are +hastening from the country, and not an animal of any kind larger than a +pheasant or a squirrel, and of even these a few only will then be seen +in this part of the mountains: after which we shall be obliged to rely +on our own stock of provisions, which will not support us more than ten +days. These circumstances combine to render a passage by water +impracticable in our present situation. To descend the course of the +river on horseback is the other alternative, and scarcely a more +inviting one. The river is so deep that there are only a few places +where it can be forded, and the rocks approach so near the water as to +render it impossible to make a route along the waters' edge. In crossing +the mountains themselves we should have to encounter, besides their +steepness, one barren surface of broken masses of rock, down which in +certain seasons the torrents sweep vast quantities of stone into the +river. These rocks are of a whitish brown, and towards the base of a +gray colour, and so hard, that on striking them with steel, they yield a +fire like flint. This sombre appearance is in some places scarcely +relieved by a single tree, though near the river and on the creeks there +is more timber, among which are some tall pine: several of these might +be made into canoes, and by lashing two of them together, one of +tolerable size might be formed. + +After dinner he continued his route, and at the distance of half a mile +passed another creek about five yards wide. Here his guide informed him +that by ascending the creek for some distance he would have a better +road, and cut off a considerable bend of the river towards the south. He +therefore pursued a well-beaten Indian track up this creek for about six +miles, when leaving the creek to the right he passed over a ridge, and +after walking a mile again met the river, where it flows through a +meadow of about eighty acres in extent. This they passed and then +ascended a high and steep point of a mountain, from which the guide now +pointed out where the river broke through the mountains about twenty +miles distant. Near the base of the mountains a small river falls in +from the south: this view was terminated by one of the loftiest +mountains captain Clarke had ever seen, which was perfectly covered with +snow. Towards this formidable barrier the river went directly on, and +there it was, as the guide observed, that the difficulties and dangers +of which he and Cameahwait had spoken commenced. After reaching the +mountain, he said, the river continues its course towards the north for +many miles, between high perpendicular rocks, which were scattered +through its bed: it then penetrated the mountain through a narrow gap, +on each side of which arose perpendicularly a rock as high as the top of +the mountain before them; that the river then made a bend which +concealed its future course from view, and as it was alike impossible +to descend the river or clamber over that vast mountain, eternally +covered with snow, neither he nor any of his nation had ever been lower +than at a place where they could see the gap made by the river on +entering the mountain. To that place he said he would conduct captain +Clarke if he desired it by the next evening. But he was in need of no +further evidence to convince him of the utter impracticability of the +route before him. He had already witnessed the difficulties of part of +the road, yet after all these dangers his guide, whose intelligence and +fidelity he could not doubt, now assured him that the difficulties were +only commencing, and what he saw before him too clearly convinced him of +the Indian's veracity. He therefore determined to abandon this route, +and returned to the upper part of the last creek we had passed, and +reaching it an hour after dark encamped for the night: on this creek he +had seen in the morning an Indian road coming in from the north. +Disappointed in finding a route by water, captain Clarke now questioned +his guide more particularly as to the direction of this road which he +seemed to understand perfectly. He drew a map on the sand, and +represented this road as well as that we passed yesterday on Berry creek +as both leading towards two forks of the same great river, where resided +a nation called Tushepaws, who having no salmon on their river, came by +these roads to the fish weirs on Lewis's river. He had himself been +among these Tushepaws, and having once accompanied them on a fishing +party to another river he had there seen Indians who had come across the +rocky mountains. After a great deal of conversation, or rather signs, +and a second and more particular map from his guide, captain Clarke felt +persuaded that his guide knew of a road from the Shoshonee village they +had left, to the great river to the north, without coming so low down as +this on a route impracticable for horses. He was desirous of hastening +his return, and therefore set out early, + +Saturday 24, and after descending the creek to the river, stopped to +breakfast on berries in the meadow above the second creek. He then went +on, but unfortunately fell from a rock and injured his leg very much; he +however walked on as rapidly as he could, and at four in the afternoon +rejoined his men. During his absence they had killed one of the mountain +cocks, a few pheasants, and some small fish, on which with haws and +serviceberries they had subsisted. Captain Clarke immediately sent +forward a man on horseback with a note to captain Lewis, apprising him +of the result of his inquiries, and late in the afternoon set out with +the rest of the party and encamped at the distance of two miles. The men +were much disheartened at the bad prospect of escaping from the +mountains, and having nothing to eat but a few berries which have made +several of them sick, they all passed a disagreeable night, which was +rendered more uncomfortable by a heavy dew. + +Sunday 25. The want of provisions urged captain Clarke to return as soon +as possible; he therefore set out early, and halted an hour in passing +the Indian camp near the fish weirs. These people treated them with +great kindness, and though poor and dirty they willingly give what +little they possess; they gave the whole party boiled salmon and dried +berries, which were not however in sufficient quantities to appease +their hunger. They soon resumed their old road, but as the abstinence or +strange diet had given one of the men a very severe illness, they were +detained very much on his account, and it was not till late in the day +they reached the cliff under which they had encamped on the +twenty-first. They immediately began to fish and hunt, in order to +procure a meal. We caught several small fish, and by means of our guide, +obtained two salmon from a small party of women and children, who, with +one man, were going below to gather berries. This supplied us with about +half a meal, but after dark we were regaled with a beaver which one of +the hunters brought in. The other game seen in the course of the day +were one deer, and a party of elk among the pines on the sides of the +mountains. + +Monday 26. The morning was fine, and three men were despatched ahead to +hunt, while the rest were detained until nine o'clock, in order to +retake some horses which had strayed away during the night. They then +proceeded along the route by the forks of the river, till they reached +the lower Indian camp where they first were when we met them. The whole +camp immediately flocked around him with great appearance of cordiality, +but all the spare food of the village did not amount to more than two +salmon, which they gave to captain Clarke, who distributed them among +his men. The hunters had not been able to kill any thing, nor had +captain Clarke or the greater part of the men any food during the +twenty-four hours, till towards evening one of them shot a salmon in the +river, and a few small fish were caught, which furnished them with a +scanty meal. The only animals they had seen were a few pigeons, some +very wild hares, a great number of the large black grasshopper, and a +quantify of ground lizards. + +Tuesday 27. The men, who were engaged last night in mending their +moccasins, all except one, went out hunting, but no game was to be +procured. One of the men however killed a small salmon, and the Indians +made a present of another, on which the whole party made a very slight +breakfast. These Indians, to whom this life is familiar, seem contented, +although they depend for subsistence on the scanty productions of the +fishery. But our men who are used to hardships, but have been accustomed +to have the first wants of nature regularly supplied, feel very sensibly +their wretched situation; their strength is wasting away; they begin to +express their apprehensions of being without food in a country perfectly +destitute of any means of supporting life, except a few fish. In the +course of the day an Indian brought into the camp five salmon, two of +which captain Clarke bought, and made a supper for the party. + +Wednesday 28. There was a frost again this morning. The Indians gave +the party two salmon out of several which they caught in their traps, +and having purchased two more, the party was enabled to subsist on them +during the day. A camp of about forty Indians from the west fork passed +us to-day, on their route to the eastward. Our prospect of provisions is +getting worse every day: the hunters who had ranged through the country +in every direction where game might be reasonably expected, have seen +nothing. The fishery is scarcely more productive, for an Indian who was +out all day with his gig killed only one salmon. Besides the four fish +procured from the Indians, captain Clarke obtained some fishroe in +exchange for three small fish-hooks, the use of which he taught them, +and which they very readily comprehended. All the men who are not +engaged in hunting, are occupied in making pack-saddles for the horses +which captain Lewis informed us he had bought. + +August 20. Two hunters were despatched early in the morning, but they +returned without killing any thing, and the only game we procured was a +beaver, who was caught last night in a trap which he carried off two +miles before he was found. The fur of this animal is as good as any we +have ever seen, nor does it in fact appear to be ever out of season on +the upper branches of the Missouri. This beaver, with several dozen of +fine trout, gave us a plentiful subsistence for the day. The party were +occupied chiefly in making pack-saddles, in the manufacture of which we +supply the place of nails and boards, by substituting for the first +thongs of raw hide, which answer very well; and for boards we use the +handles of our oars, and the plank of some boxes, the contents of which +we empty into sacks of raw hides made for the purpose. The Indians who +visit us behave with the greatest decorum, and the women are busily +engaged in making and mending the moccasins of the party. As we had +still some superfluous baggage which would be too heavy to carry across +the mountains, it became necessary to make a cache or deposit. For this +purpose we selected a spot on the bank of the river, three quarters of a +mile below the camp, and three men were set to dig it, with a sentinel +in the neighbourhood, who was ordered if the natives were to straggle +that way, to fire a signal for the workmen to desist and separate. +Towards evening the cache was completed without being perceived by the +Indians, and the packages prepared for deposit. + + + + + CHAPTER XVI. + + Contest between Drewyer and a Shoshonee--The fidelity and honour of + that tribe--The party set out on their journey--The conduct of + Cameahwait reproved, and himself reconciled--The easy parturition + of the Shoshonee women--History of this nation--Their terror of the + Pawkees--Their government and family economy in their treatment of + their women--Their complaints of Spanish treachery--Description of + their weapons of warfare--Their curious mode of making a + shield--The caparison of their horses--The dress of the men and of + the women particularly described--Their mode of acquiring new + names. + + +Wednesday, August 21. The weather was very cold; the water which stood +in the vessels exposed to the air being covered with ice a quarter of an +inch thick: the ink freezes in the pen, and the low grounds are +perfectly whitened with frost: after this the day proved excessively +warm. The party were engaged in their usual occupations, and completed +twenty saddles with the necessary harness, all prepared to set off as +soon as the Indians should arrive. Our two hunters who were despatched +early in the morning have not returned, so that we were obliged to +encroach on our pork and corn, which we consider as the last resource +when our casual supplies of game fail. After dark we carried our baggage +to the cache, and deposited what we thought too cumbrous to carry with +us: a small assortment of medicines, and all the specimens of plants, +seeds, and minerals, collected since leaving the falls of the Missouri. +Late at night Drewyer, one of the hunters, returned with a fawn and a +considerable quantity of Indian plunder, which he had taken by way of +reprisal. While hunting this morning in the Shoshonee cove, he came +suddenly upon an Indian camp, at which were an old man, a young one, +three women, and a boy: they showed no surprise at the sight of him and +he therefore rode up to them, and after turning his horse loose to +graze sat down and began to converse with them by signs. They had just +finished a repast on some roots, and in about twenty minutes one of the +women spoke to the rest of the party, who immediately went out, +collected their horses and began to saddle them. Having rested himself, +Drewyer thought that he would continue his hunt, and rising went to +catch his horse who was at a short distance, forgetting at the moment to +take up his rifle. He had scarcely gone more than fifty paces when the +Indians mounted their horses, the young man snatched up the rifle, and +leaving all their baggage, whipt their horses, and set off at full speed +towards the passes of the mountains: Drewyer instantly jumped on his +horse and pursued them. After running about ten miles the horses of the +women nearly gave out, and the women finding Drewyer gain on them raised +dreadful cries, which induced the young man to slacken his pace, and +being mounted on a very fleet horse rode round them at a short distance. +Drewyer now came up with the women, and by signs persuaded them that he +did not mean to hurt them: they then stopped, and as the young man came +towards them Drewyer asked him for his rifle, but the only part of the +answer which he understood was Pahkee, the name by which they call their +enemies, the Minnetarees of fort de Prairie. While they were thus +engaged in talking, Drewyer watched his opportunity, and seeing the +Indian off his guard, galloped up to him and seized his rifle: the +Indian struggled for some time, but finding Drewyer getting too strong +for him, had the presence of mind to open the pan and let the priming +fall out; he then let go his hold, and giving his horse the whip escaped +at full speed, leaving the women to the mercy of the conqueror. Drewyer +then returned to where he had first seen them, where he found that their +baggage had been left behind, and brought it to camp with him. + +Thursday, 22. This morning early two men were sent to complete the +covering of the cache, which could not be so perfectly done during the +night as to elude the search of the Indians. On examining the spoils +which Drewyer had obtained, they were found to consist of several +dressed and undressed skins; two bags wove with the bark of the silk +grass, each containing a bushel of dried serviceberries, and about the +same quantity of roots; an instrument made of bone for manufacturing the +flints into heads for arrows; and a number of flints themselves: these +were much of the same colour and nearly as transparent as common black +glass, and when cut detached itself into flakes, leaving a very sharp +edge. + +The roots were of three kinds, and folded separate from each in hides of +buffaloe made into parchment. The first is a fusiform root six inches +long, and about the size of a man's finger at the largest end, with +radicles larger than is usual in roots of the fusiform sort: the rind is +white and thin, the body is also white, mealy, and easily reducible, by +pounding, to a substance resembling flour, like which it thickens by +boiling, and is of an agreeable flavour: it is eaten frequently in its +raw state either green or dried. The second species was much mutilated, +but appeared to be fibrous; it is of a cylindrical form about the size +of a small quill, hard and brittle. A part of the rind which had not +been detached in the preparation was hard and black, but the rest of the +root was perfectly white; this the Indiana informed us was always boiled +before eating; and on making the experiment we found that it became +perfectly soft, but had a bitter taste, which was nauseous to our taste, +but which the Indians seemed to relish; for on giving the roots to them +they were very heartily swallowed. + +The third species was a small nut about the size of a nutmeg, of an +irregularly rounded form, something like the smallest of the Jerusalem +artichokes, which, on boiling, we found them to resemble also in +flavour, and is certainly the best root we have seen in use among the +Indians. On inquiring of the Indians from what plant these roots were +procured, they informed us that none of them grew near this place. + +The men were chiefly employed in dressing the skins belonging to the +party who accompanied captain Clarke. About eleven o'clock Chaboneau and +his wife returned with Cameahwait, accompanied by about fifty men with +their women and children. After they had encamped near us and turned +loose their horses, we called a council of all the chiefs and warriors +and addressed them in a speech; additional presents were then +distributed, particularly to the two second chiefs, who had agreeably to +their promises exerted themselves in our favour. The council was then +adjourned, and all the Indians were treated with an abundant meal of +boiled Indian corn and beans. The poor wretches, who had no animal food +and scarcely any thing but a few fish, had been almost starved, and +received this new luxury with great thankfulness. Out of compliment to +the chief we gave him a few dried squashes which we had brought from the +Mandans, and he declared it was the best food he had ever tasted except +sugar, a small lump of which he had received from his sister: he now +declared how happy they should all be to live in a country which +produced so many good things, and we told him that it would not be long +before the white men would put it in their power to live below the +mountains, where they might themselves cultivate all these kinds of food +instead of wandering in the mountains. He appeared to be much pleased +with this information, and the whole party being now in excellent temper +after their repast, we began our purchase of horses. We soon obtained +five very good ones on very reasonable terms; that is, by giving for +each merchandise which cost us originally about six dollars. We have +again to admire the perfect decency and propriety of their conduct; for +although so numerous, they do not attempt to crowd round our camp or +take any thing which they see lying about, and whenever they borrow +knives or kettles or any other article from the men, they return them +with great fidelity. + +Towards evening we formed a drag of bushes, and in about two hours +caught five hundred and twenty-eight very good fish most of them large +trout. Among them we observed for the first time ten or twelve trout of +a white or silvery colour, except on the back and head where they are of +a bluish cast: in appearance and shape they resemble exactly the +speckled trout, except that they are not quite so large, though the +scales are much larger, and the flavour equally good. The greater part +of the fish was distributed among the Indians. + +Friday 28. Our visitors seem to depend wholly on us for food, and as the +state of our provisions obliges us to be careful of our remaining stock +of corn and flour, this was an additional reason for urging our +departure; but Cameahwait requested us to wait till the arrival of +another party of his nation who were expected to-day. Knowing that it +would be in vain to oppose his wish, we consented, and two hunters were +sent out with orders to go further up the southeast fork than they had +hitherto been. At the same time the chief was informed of the low state +of our provisions, and advised to send out his young men to hunt. This +he recommended them to do, and most of them set out: we then sunk our +canoes by means of stones to the bottom of the river, a situation which +better than any other secured them against the effects of the high +waters, and the frequent fires of the plains; the Indians having +promised not to disturb them during our absence, a promise we believe +the more readily, as they are almost too lazy to take the trouble of +raising them for fire-wood. We were desirous of purchasing some more +horses, but they declined selling any until we reached their camp in the +mountains. Soon after starting the Indian hunters discovered a mule +buck, and twelve of their horsemen pursued it, for four miles. We saw +the chase, which was very entertaining, and at length they rode it down +and killed it. This mule buck was the largest deer of any kind we have +seen, being nearly as large as a doe elk. Besides this they brought in +another deer and three goats; but instead of a general distribution of +the meat, and such as we have hitherto seen among all tribes of Indians, +we observed that some families had a large share, while others received +none. On inquiring of Cameahwait the reason of this custom, he said that +meat among them was scarce; that each hunter reserved what he killed for +the use of himself and his own family, none of the rest having any claim +on what he chose to keep. Our hunters returned soon after with two mule +deer and three common deer, three of which we distributed among the +families who had received none of the game of their own hunters. About +three o'clock the expected party consisting of fifty men, women and +children arrived. We now learnt that most of the Indians were on their +way down the valley towards the buffaloe country, and some anxiety to +accompany them appeared to prevail among those who had promised to +assist us in crossing the mountains. We ourselves were not without some +apprehension that they might leave us, but as they continued to say that +they would return with us nothing was said upon the subject. We were, +however, resolved to move early in the morning; and therefore despatched +two men to hunt in the cove and leave the game on the route we should +pass to-morrow. + +Saturday 24. As the Indians who arrived yesterday had a number of spare +horses, we thought it probable they might be willing to dispose of them, +and desired the chief to speak to them for that purpose. They declined +giving any positive answer, but requested to see the goods which we +proposed to exchange. We then produced some battle-axes which we had +made at fort Mandan, and a quantity of knives; with both of which they +appeared very much pleased; and we were soon able to purchase three +horses by giving for each an axe, a knife, a hankerchief and a little +paint. To this we were obliged to add a second knife, a shirt, a +handkerchief and a pair of leggings; and such is the estimation in which +those animals are held, that even at this price, which was double that +for a horse, the fellow who sold him took upon himself great merit in +having given away a mule to us. They now said that they had no more +horses for sale, and as we had now nine of our own, two hired horses, +and a mule, we began loading them as heavily as was prudent, and placing +the rest on the shoulders of the Indian women, left our camp at twelve +o'clock. We were all on foot, except Sacajawea, for whom her husband had +purchased a horse with some articles which we gave him for that purpose; +an Indian however had the politeness to offer captain Lewis one of his +horses to ride, which he accepted in order better to direct the march of +the party. We crossed the river below the forks, directing our course +towards the cove by the route already passed, and had just reached the +lower part of the cove when an Indian rode up to captain Lewis to inform +him that one of his men was very sick, and unable to come on. The party +was immediately halted at a run which falls into the creek on the left, +and captain Lewis rode back two miles, and found Wiser severely +afflicted with the colic: by giving him some of the essence of +peppermint and laudanum, he recovered sufficiently to ride the horse of +captain Lewis, who then rejoined the party on foot. When he arrived he +found that the Indians who had been impatiently expecting his return, at +last unloaded their horses and turned them loose, and had now made their +camp for the night. It would have been fruitless to remonstrate, and not +prudent to excite any irritation, and therefore, although the sun was +still high, and we had made only six miles, we thought it best to remain +with them: after we had encamped there fell a slight shower of rain. One +of the men caught several fine trout; but Drewyer had been sent out to +hunt without having killed any thing. We therefore gave a little corn to +those of the Indians who were actually engaged in carrying our baggage, +and who had absolutely nothing to eat. We also advised Cameahwait, as we +could not supply all his people with provisions, to recommend to all who +were not assisting us, to go on before us to their camp. This he did: +but in the morning, + +Sunday 25, a few only followed his advice, the rest accompanying us at +some distance on each side. We set out at sunrise and after going +seventeen miles halted for dinner within two miles of the narrow pass in +the mountains. The Indians who were on the sides of our party had +started some antelopes, but were obliged after a pursuit of several +hours to abandon the chase: our hunters had in the meantime brought in +three deer, the greater part of which was distributed among the Indians. +Whilst at dinner we learnt by means of Sacajawea, that the young men who +left us this morning, carried a request from the chief, that the village +would break up its encampment and meet this party to-morrow, when they +would all go down the Missouri into the buffaloe country. Alarmed at +this new caprice of the Indians which, if not counteracted, threatened +to leave ourselves and our baggage on the mountains, or even if we +reached the waters of the Columbia, prevent our obtaining horses to go +on further, captain Lewis immediately called the three chiefs together. +After smoking a pipe he asked them if they were men of their words, and +if we can rely on their promises. They readily answered in the +affirmative. He then asked, if they had not agreed to assist us in +carrying our baggage over the mountains. To this they also answered yes; +and why then, said he, have you requested your people to meet us +to-morrow, where it will be impossible for us to trade for horses, as +you promised we should. If, he continued, you had not promised to help +us in transporting our goods over the mountains, we should not have +attempted it, but have returned down the river, after which no white men +would ever have come into your country. If you wish the whites to be +your friends, and to bring you arms and protect you from your enemies, +you should never promise what you do not mean to perform: when I first +met you, you doubted what I said, yet you afterwards saw that I told +you the truth. How therefore can you doubt what I now tell you; you see +that I have divided amongst you the meat which my hunters kill, and I +promise to give all who assist us a share of whatever we have to eat. If +therefore you intend to keep your promise, send one of the young men +immediately to order the people to remain at the village till we arrive. + +The two inferior chiefs then said, that they had wished to keep their +words and to assist us; that they had not sent for the people, but on +the contrary had disapproved of the measure which was done wholly by the +first chief. Cameahwait remained silent for some time: at last he said +that he knew he had done wrong, but that seeing his people all in want +of provisions, he had wished to hasten their departure for the country +where their wants might be supplied. He however now declared, that +having passed his word he would never violate it, and counter orders +were immediately sent to the village by a young man, to whom we gave a +handkerchief in order to ensure despatch and fidelity. + +This difficulty being now adjusted, our march was resumed with an +unusual degree of alacrity on the part of the Indians. We passed a spot, +where six years ago the Shoshonees* suffered a very severe defeat from +the Minnetarees; and late in the evening we reached the upper part of +the cove where the creek enters the mountains. The part of the cove on +the northeast side of the creek has lately been burnt, most probably as +a signal on some occasion. Here we were joined by our hunters with a +single deer, which captain Lewis gave, as a proof of his sincerity, to +the women and children, and remained supperless himself. As we came +along we observed several large hares, some ducks, and many of the cock +of the plains: in the low grounds of the cove were also considerable +quantities of wild onions. + +Monday 26. The morning was excessively cold, and the ice in our vessels +was nearly a quarter of an inch in thickness: we set out at sunrise, and +soon reached the fountain of the Missouri, where we halted for a few +minutes, and then crossing the dividing ridge reached the fine spring +where captain Lewis had slept on the 12th in his first excursion to the +Shoshonee camp. The grass on the hill sides is perfectly dry and parched +by the sun, but near the spring was a fine green grass: we therefore +halted for dinner and turned our horses to graze. To each of the Indians +who were engaged in carrying our baggage was distributed a pint of corn, +which they parched, then pounded, and made a sort of soup. One of the +women who had been leading two of our pack horses halted at a rivulet +about a mile behind, and sent on the two horses by a female friend: on +inquiring of Cameahwait the cause of her detention, he answered with +great appearance of unconcern, that she had just stopped to lie in, but +would soon overtake us. In fact we were astonished to see her in about +an hour's time come on with her new born infant and pass us on her way +to the camp, apparently in perfect health. + +This wonderful facility with which the Indian women bring forth their +children, seems rather some benevolent gift of nature, in exempting them +from pains which their savage state would render doubly grievous, than +any result of habit. If as has been imagined, a pure dry air or a cold +and elevated country are obstacles to easy delivery, every difficulty +incident to that operation might be expected in this part of the +continent; nor can another reason, the habit of carrying heavy burthens +during pregnancy, be at all applicable to the Shoshonee women, who +rarely carry any burdens, since their nation possesses an abundance of +horses. We have indeed been several times informed by those conversant +with Indian manners, and who asserted their knowledge of the fact, that +Indian women pregnant by white men experience more difficulty in +child-birth than when the father is an Indian. If this account be true, +it may contribute to strengthen the belief, that the easy delivery of +the Indian women is wholly constitutional. + +The tops of the high irregular mountains to the westward are still +entirely covered with snow; and the coolness which the air acquires in +passing them, is a very agreeable relief from the heat, which has dried +up the herbage on the sides of the hills. While we stopped, the women +were busily employed in collecting the root of a plant with which they +feed their children, who like their mothers are nearly half starved and +in a wretched condition. It is a species of fennel which grows in the +moist grounds; the radix is of the knob kind, of a long ovate form, +terminating in a single radicle, the whole being three or four inches +long, and the thickest part about the size of a man's little finger: +when fresh, it is white, firm, and crisp; and when dried and pounded +makes a fine white meal. Its flavour is not unlike that of aniseed, +though less pungent. From one to four of these knobbed roots are +attached to a single stem which rises to the height of three or four +feet, and is jointed, smooth, cylindric, and has several small +peduncles, one at each joint above the sheathing leaf. Its colour is a +deep green, as is also that of the leaf, which is sheathing, sessile, +and _polipartite_, the divisions being long and narrow. The flowers, +which are now in bloom, are small and numerous, with white and +umbellifferous petals: there are no root leaves. As soon as the seeds +have matured, the roots of the present year as well as the stem decline, +and are renewed in the succeeding spring from the little knot which +unites the roots. The sunflower is also abundant here, and the seeds, +which are now ripe, are gathered in considerable quantities, and after +being pounded and rubbed between smooth stones, form a kind of meal, +which is a favourite dish among the Indians. + +After dinner we continued our route and were soon met by a party of +young men on horseback, who turned with us and went to the village. As +soon as we were within sight of it, Cameahwait requested that we would +discharge our guns; the men were therefore drawn up in a single rank, +and gave a running fire of two rounds, to the great satisfaction of the +Indians. We then proceeded to the encampment where we arrived about six +o'clock, and were conducted to the leathern lodge in the centre of +thirty-two others made of brush. The baggage was arranged near this +tent, which captain Lewis occupied, and surrounded by those of the men +so as to secure it from pillage. This camp was in a beautiful smooth +meadow near the river, and about three miles above their camp when we +first visited the Indians. We here found Colter, who had been sent by +captain Clarke with a note apprising us that there were no hopes of a +passage by water, and that the most practicable route seemed to be that +mentioned by his guide, towards the north. Whatever road we meant to +take, it was now necessary to provide ourselves with horses; we +therefore informed Cameahwait of our intention of going to the great +river beyond the mountains, and that we would wish to purchase twenty +more horses: he said the Minnetarees had stolen a great number of their +horses this spring, but he still hoped they could spare us that number. +In order not to loose the present favourable moment, and to keep the +Indians as cheerful as possible, the violins were brought out and our +men danced to the great diversion of the Indians. This mirth was the +more welcome because our situation was not precisely that which would +most dispose us for gayety, for we have only a little parched corn to +eat, and our means of subsistence or of success, depend on the wavering +temper of the natives, who may change their minds to-morrow. + +The Shoshonees are a small tribe of the nation called Snake Indians, a +vague denomination, which embraces at once the inhabitants of the +southern parts of the Rocky mountains and of the plains on each side. +The Shoshonees with whom we now are, amount to about one hundred +warriors, and three times that number of women and children. Within +their own recollection they formerly lived in the plains, but they have +been driven into the mountains by the Pawkees, or the roving Indians of +the Sascatchawain, and are now obliged to visit occasionally, and by +stealth, the country of their ancestors. Their lives are indeed +migratory. From the middle of May to the beginning of September, they +reside on the waters of the Columbia, where they consider themselves +perfectly secure from the Pawkees who have never yet found their way to +that retreat. During this time they subsist chiefly on salmon, and as +that fish disappears on the approach of autumn, they are obliged to seek +subsistence elsewhere. They then cross the ridge to the waters of the +Missouri, down which they proceed slowly and cautiously, till they are +joined near the three forks by other bands, either of their own nation +or of the Flatheads, with whom they associate against the common enemy. +Being now strong in numbers, they venture to hunt buffaloe in the plains +eastward of the mountains, near which they spend the winter, till the +return of the salmon invites them to the Columbia. But such is their +terror of the Pawkees, that as long as they can obtain the scantiest +subsistence, they do not leave the interior of the mountains; and as +soon as they collect a large stock of dried meat, they again retreat, +and thus alternately obtaining their food at the hazard of their lives, +and hiding themselves to consume it. In this loose and wandering +existence they suffer the extremes of want; for two thirds of the year +they are forced to live in the mountains, passing whole weeks without +meat, and with nothing to eat but a few fish and roots. Nor can any +thing be imagined more wretched than their condition at the present +time, when the salmon is fast retiring, when roots are becoming scarce, +and they have not yet acquired strength to hazard an encounter with +their enemies. So insensible are they however to these calamities, that +the Shoshonees are not only cheerful but even gay; and their character, +which is more interesting than that of any Indians we have seen, has in +it much of the dignity of misfortune. In their intercourse with +strangers they are frank and communicative, in their dealings perfectly +fair, nor have we had during our stay with them, any reason to suspect +that the display of all our new and valuable wealth, has tempted them +into a single act of dishonesty. While they have generally shared with +us the little they possess, they have always abstained from begging any +thing from us. With their liveliness of temper, they are fond of gaudy +dresses, and of all sorts of amusements, particularly to games of +hazard; and like most Indians fond of boasting of their own warlike +exploits, whether real or fictitious. In their conduct towards +ourselves, they were kind and obliging, and though on one occasion they +seemed willing to neglect us, yet we scarcely knew how to blame the +treatment by which we suffered, when we recollected how few civilized +chiefs would have hazarded the comforts or the subsistence of their +people for the sake of a few strangers. This manliness of character may +cause or it may be formed by the nature of their government, which is +perfectly free from any restraint. Each individual is his own master, +and the only control to which his conduct is subjected, is the advice of +a chief supported by his influence over the opinions of the rest of the +tribe. The chief himself is in fact no more than the most confidential +person among the warriors, a rank neither distinguished by any external +honor, nor invested by any ceremony, but gradually acquired from the +good wishes of his companions and by superior merit. Such an officer has +therefore strictly no power; he may recommend or advise or influence, +but his commands have no effect on those who incline to disobey, and who +may at any time withdraw from their voluntary allegiance. His shadowy +authority which cannot survive the confidence which supports it, often +decays with the personal vigour of the chief, or is transferred to some +more fortunate or favourite hero. + +In their domestic economy, the man is equally sovereign. The man is the +sole proprietor of his wives and daughters, and can barter them away, or +dispose of them in any manner he may think proper. The children are +seldom corrected; the boys, particularly, soon become their own +masters; they are never whipped, for they say that it breaks their +spirit, and that after being flogged they never recover their +independence of mind, even when they grow to manhood. A plurality of +wives is very common; but these are not generally sisters, as among the +Minnetarees and Mandans, but are purchased of different fathers. The +infant daughters are often betrothed by the father to men who are grown, +either for themselves or for their sons, for whom they are desirous of +providing wives. The compensation to the father is usually made in +horses or mules; and the girl remains with her parents till the age of +puberty, which is thirteen or fourteen, when she is surrendered to her +husband. At the same time the father often makes a present to the +husband equal to what he had formerly received as the price of his +daughter, though this return is optional with her parent. Sacajawea had +been contracted in this way before she was taken prisoner, and when we +brought her back, her betrothed was still living. Although he was double +the age of Sacajawea, and had two other wives, he claimed her, but on +finding that she had a child by her new husband, Chaboneau, he +relinquished his pretensions and said he did not want her. + +The chastity of the women does not appear to be held in much estimation. +The husband will for a trifling present lend his wife for a night to a +stranger, and the loan may be protracted by increasing the value of the +present. Yet strange as it may seem, notwithstanding this facility, any +connexion of this kind not authorized by the husband, is considered +highly offensive and quite as disgraceful to his character as the same +licentiousness in civilized societies. The Shoshonees are not so +importunate in volunteering the services of their wives as we found the +Sioux were; and indeed we observed among them some women who appeared to +be held in more respect than those of any nation we had seen. But the +mass of the females are condemned, as among all savage nations, to the +lowest and most laborious drudgery. When the tribe is stationary, they +collect the roots, and cook; they build the huts, dress the skins and +make clothing; collect the wood, and assist in taking care of the horses +on the route; they load the horses and have the charge of all the +baggage. The only business of the man is to fight; he therefore takes on +himself the care of his horse, the companion of his warfare; but he will +descend to no other labour than to hunt and to fish. He would consider +himself degraded by being compelled to walk any distance; and were he so +poor as to possess only two horses, he would ride the best of them, and +leave the other for his wives and children and their baggage; and if he +has too many wives or too much baggage for the horse, the wives have no +alternative but to follow him on foot; they are not however often +reduced to those extremities, for their stock of horses is very ample. +Notwithstanding their losses this spring they still have at least seven +hundred, among which are about forty colts, and half that number of +mules. There are no horses here which can be considered as wild; we have +seen two only on this side of the Muscleshell river which were without +owners, and even those although shy, showed every mark of having been +once in the possession of man. The original stock was procured from the +Spaniards, but they now raise their own. The horses are generally very +fine, of a good size, vigorous and patient of fatigue as well as hunger. +Each warrior has one or two tied to a stake near his hut both day and +night, so as to be always prepared for action. The mules are obtained in +the course of trade from the Spaniards, with whose brands several of +them are marked, or stolen from them by the frontier Indians. They are +the finest animals of that kind we have ever seen, and at this distance +from the Spanish colonies are very highly valued. The worst are +considered as worth the price of two horses, and a good mule cannot be +obtained for less than three and sometimes four horses. + +We also saw a bridle bit, stirrups and several other articles which, +like the mules, came from the Spanish colonies. The Shoshonees say that +they can reach those settlements in ten days' march by the route of the +Yellowstone river; but we readily perceive that the Spaniards are by no +means favourites. They complain that the Spaniards refuse to let them +have fire arms under pretence that these dangerous weapons will only +induce them to kill each other. In the meantime, say the Shoshonees, we +are left to the mercy of the Minnetarees, who having arms, plunder them +of their horses, and put them to death without mercy. "But this should +not be," said Cameahwait fiercely, "if we had guns, instead of hiding +ourselves in the mountains and living like the bears on roots and +berries, we would then go down and live in the buffaloe country in spite +of our enemies, whom we never fear when we meet on equal terms." + +As war is the chief occupation, bravery is the first virtue among the +Shoshonees. None can hope to be distinguished without having given +proofs of it, nor can there be any preferment, or influence among the +nation, without some warlike achievement. Those important events which +give reputation to a warrior, and which entitle him to a new name, are +killing a white bear, stealing individually the horses of the enemy, +leading out a party who happen to be successful either in plundering +horses or destroying the enemy, and lastly scalping a warrior. These +acts seem of nearly equal dignity, but the last, that of taking an +enemy's scalp, is an honour quite independent of the act of vanquishing +him. To kill your adversary is of no importance unless the scalp is +brought from the field of battle, and were a warrior to slay any number +of his enemies in action, and others were to obtain the scalps or first +touch the dead, they would have all the honours, since they have borne +off the trophy. + +Although thus oppressed by the Minnetarees, the Shoshonees are still a +very military people. Their cold and rugged country inures them to +fatigue; their long abstinence makes them support the dangers of +mountain warfare, and worn down as we saw them, by want of sustenance, +have a look of fierce and adventurous courage. The Shoshonee warrior +always fights on horseback; he possesses a few bad guns, which are +reserved exclusively for war, but his common arms are the bow and arrow, +a shield, a lance and a weapon called by the Chippeways, by whom it was +formerly used, the poggamoggon. The bow is made of cedar or pine covered +on the outer side with sinews and glue. It is about two and a half feet +long, and does not differ in shape from those used by the Sioux, Mandans +and Minnetarees. Sometimes, however, the bow is made of a single piece +of the horn of an elk, covered on the back like those of wood with +sinews and glue, and occasionally ornamented by a strand wrought of +porcupine quills and sinews, which is wrapped round the horn near its +two ends. The bows made of the horns of the bighorn, are still more +prized, and are formed by cementing with glue flat pieces of the horn +together, covering the back with sinews and glue, and loading the whole +with an unusual quantity of ornaments. The arrows resemble those of the +other Indians except in being more slender than any we have seen. They +are contained, with the implements for striking fire, in a narrow quiver +formed of different kinds of skin, though that of the otter seems to be +preferred. It is just long enough to protect the arrows from the +weather, and is worn on the back by means of a strap passing over the +right shoulder and under the left arm. The shield is a circular piece of +buffaloe hide about two feet four or five inches in diameter, ornamented +with feathers, and a fringe round it of dressed leather, and adorned or +deformed with paintings of strange figures. The buffaloe hide is +perfectly proof against any arrow, but in the minds of the Shoshonees, +its power to protect them is chiefly derived from the virtues which are +communicated to it by the old men and jugglers. To make a shield is +indeed one of their most important ceremonies: it begins by a feast to +which all the warriors, old men and jugglers are invited. After the +repast a hole is dug in the ground about eighteen inches in depth and of +the same diameter as the intended shield: into this hole red hot stones +are thrown and water poured over them, till they emit a very strong* hot +steam. The buffaloe skin, which must be the entire hide of a male two +years old, and never suffered to dry since it was taken from the animal, +is now laid across the hole, with the fleshy side to the ground, and +stretched in every direction by as many as can take hold of it. As the +skin becomes heated, the hair separates and is taken off by the hand; +till at last the skin is contracted into the compass designed for the +shield. It is then taken off and placed on a hide prepared into +parchment, and then pounded during the rest of the festival by the bare +heels of those who are invited to it. This operation sometimes continues +for several days, after which it is delivered to the proprietor, and +declared by the old men and jugglers to be a security against arrows; +and provided the feast has been satisfactory, against even the bullets +of their enemies. Such is the delusion, that many of the Indians +implicitly believe that this ceremony has given to the shield +supernatural powers, and that they have no longer to fear any weapons of +their enemies. + +The paggamoggon is an instrument, consisting of a handle twenty-two +inches long, made of wood, covered with dressed leather about the size +of a whip-handle: at one end is a thong of two inches in length, which +is tied to a round stone weighing two pounds and held in a cover of +leather: at the other end is a loop of the same material, which is +passed round the wrist so as to secure the hold of the instrument, with +which they strike a very severe blow. + +Besides these, they have a kind of armour something like a coat of mail, +which is formed by a great many folds of dressed antelope skins, united +by means of a mixture of glue and sand. With this they cover their own +bodies and those of their horses, and find it impervious to the arrow. + +The caparison of their horses is a halter and a saddle: the first +is either a rope of six or seven strands of buffaloe hair platted +or twisted together, about the size of a man's finger and of great +strength; or merely a thong of raw hide, made pliant by pounding and +rubbing; though the first kind is much preferred. The halter is very +long, and is never taken from the neck of the horse when in constant +use. One end of it is first tied round the neck in a knot and then +brought down to the under jaw, round which it is formed into a simple +noose, passing through the mouth: it is then drawn up on the right side +and held by the rider in his left hand, while the rest trails after him +to some distance. At other times the knot is formed at a little distance +from one of the ends, so as to let that end serve as a bridle, while the +other trails on the ground. With these cords dangling along side of them +the horse is put to his full speed without fear of falling, and when he +is turned to graze the noose is merely taken from his mouth. The saddle +in formed like the pack-saddles used by the French and Spaniards, of two +flat thin boards which fit the sides of the horse, and are kept together +by two cross pieces, one before and the other behind, which rise to +a considerable height, ending sometimes in a flat point extending +outwards, and always making the saddle deep and narrow. Under this a +piece of buffaloe skin, with the hair on, is placed so as to prevent the +rubbing of the boards, and when they mount they throw a piece of skin +or robe over the saddle, which has no permanent cover. When stirrups +are used, they consist of wood covered with leather; but stirrups and +saddles are conveniences reserved for old men and women. The young +warriors rarely use any thing except a small leather pad stuffed with +hair, and secured by a girth made of a leathern thong. In this way they +ride with great expertness, and they have a particular dexterity in +catching the horse when he is running at large. If he will not +immediately submit when they wish to take him, they make a noose in the +rope, and although the horse may be at a distance, or even running, +rarely fail to fix it on his neck; and such is the docility of the +animal, that however unruly he may seem, he surrenders as soon as he +feels the rope on him. This cord is so useful in this way that it is +never dispensed with, even when they use the Spanish bridle, which they +prefer, and always procure when they have it in their power. The horse +becomes almost an object of attachment: a favourite is frequently +painted and his ears cut into various shapes: the mane and tail, which +are never drawn nor trimmed, are decorated with feathers of birds, and +sometimes a warrior suspends at the breast of his horse the finest +ornaments he possesses. + +Thus armed and mounted the Shoshonee is a formidable enemy, even with +the feeble weapons which he is still obliged to use. When they attack at +full speed they bend forward and cover their bodies with the shield, +while with the right hand they shoot under the horses neck. + +The only articles of metal which the Shoshonees possess are a few bad +knives, some brass kettles, some bracelets or armbands of iron and +brass, a few buttons worn as ornaments in their hair, one or two spears +about a foot in length, and some heads for arrows made of iron and +brass. All these they had obtained in trading with the Crow or Rocky +mountain Indians, who live on the Yellowstone. The few bridle-bits and +stirrups they procured from the Spanish colonies. + +The instrument which supplies the place of a knife among them, is a +piece of flint with no regular form, and the sharp part of it not more +than one or two inches long: the edge of this is renewed, and the flint +itself is formed into heads for arrows, by means of the point of a deer +or elk horn, an instrument which they use with great art and ingenuity. +There are no axes or hatchets; all the wood being cut with flint or +elk-horn, the latter of which is always used as a wedge in splitting +wood. Their utensils consist, besides the brass kettles, of pots in the +form of a jar, made either of earth, or of a stone found in the hills +between Madison and Jefferson rivers, which, though soft and white in +its natural state, becomes very hard and black after exposure to the +fire. The horns of the buffaloe and the bighorn supply them with spoons. + +The fire is always kindled by means of a blunt arrow, and a piece of +well-seasoned wood of a soft spongy kind, such as the willow or +cottonwood. + +The Shoshonees are of a diminutive stature, with thick flat feet and +ankles, crooked legs, and are, generally speaking, worse formed than any +nation of Indians we have seen. Their complexion resembles that of the +Sioux, and is darker than that of the Minnetarees, Mandans, or Shawnees. +The hair in both sexes is suffered to fall loosely over the face and +down the shoulders: some men, however, divide it by means of thongs of +dressed leather or otter skin into two equal queues, which hang over the +ears and are drawn in front of the body; but at the present moment, when +the nation is afflicted by the loss of so many relations killed in war, +most of them have the hair cut quite short in the neck, and Cameahwait +has the hair cut short all over his head, this being the customary +mourning for a deceased kindred. + +The dress of the men consists of a robe, a tippet, a shirt, long +leggings and moccasins. The robe is formed most commonly of the skins of +antelope, bighorn, or deer, though when it can be procured, the buffaloe +hide is preferred. Sometimes too they are made of beaver, moonax, and +small wolves, and frequently during the summer of elk skin. These are +dressed with the hair on, and reach about as low as the middle of the +leg. They are worn loosely over the shoulders, the sides being at +pleasure either left open or drawn together by the hand, and in cold +weather kept close by a girdle round the waist. This robe answers the +purpose of a cloak during the day, and at night is their only covering. + +The tippet is the most elegant article of Indian dress we have ever +seen. The neck or collar of it is a strip about four or five inches +wide, cut from the back of the otter skin, the nose and eyes forming one +extremity, and the tail another. This being dressed with the fur on, +they attach to one edge of it, from one hundred to two hundred and +fifty little rolls of ermine skin, beginning at the ear, and proceeding +towards the tail. These ermine skins are the same kind of narrow strips +from the back of that animal, which are sewed round a small cord of +twisted silkgrass thick enough to make the skin taper towards the tail +which hangs from the end, and are generally about the size of a large +quill. These are tied at the head into little bundles, of two, three or +more according to the caprice of the wearer, and then suspended from the +collar, and a broad fringe of ermine skin is fixed so as to cover the +parts where they unite, which might have a coarse appearance. Little +tassels of fringe of the same materials are also fastened to the +extremities of the tail, so as to show its black colour to greater +advantage. The centre of the collar is further ornamented with the +shells of the pearl oyster. Thus adorned, the collar is worn close round +the neck, and the little rolls fall down over the shoulders nearly +to the waist, so as to form a sort of short cloak, which has a very +handsome appearance. These tippets are very highly esteemed, and are +given or disposed of on important occasions only. The ermine is the fur +known to the northwest traders by the name of the white weasel, but is +the genuine ermine; and by encouraging the Indians to take them, might +no doubt be rendered a valuable branch of trade. These animals must be +very abundant, for the tippets are in great numbers, and the +construction of each requires at least one hundred skins. + +The shirt is a covering of dressed skin without the hair, and formed +of the hide of the antelope, deer, bighorn, or elk, though the last +is more rarely used than any other for this purpose. It fits the body +loosely, and reaches half way down the thigh. The aperture at the top +is wide enough to admit the head, and has no collar, but is either left +square, or most frequently terminates in the tail of the animal, which +is left entire, so as to fold outwards, though sometimes the edges are +cut into a fringe, and ornamented with quills of the porcupine. The +seams of the shirt are on the sides, and are richly fringed and adorned +with porcupine quills, till within five or six inches of the sleeve, +where it is left open, as is also the under side of the sleeve from the +shoulder to the elbow, where it fits closely round the arm as low as +the wrist, and has no fringe like the sides, and the under part of the +sleeve above the elbow. It is kept up by wide shoulder straps, on which +the manufacturer displays his taste by the variety of figures wrought +with porcupine quills of different colours, and sometimes by beads when +they can be obtained. The lower end of the shirt retains the natural +shape of the fore legs and neck of the skin, with the addition of a +slight fringe; the hair too is left on the tail and near the hoofs, part +of which last is retained and split into a fringe. + +The leggings are generally made of antelope skins, dressed without the +hair, and with the legs, tail and neck hanging to them. Each legging is +formed of a skin nearly entire, and reaches from the ancle to the upper +part of the thigh, and the legs of the skin are tucked before and behind +under a girdle round the waist. It fits closely to the leg, the tail +being worn upwards, and the neck highly ornamented with fringe and +porcupine quills, drags on the ground behind the heels. As the legs of +the animal are tied round the girdle, the wide part of the skin is drawn +so high as to conceal the parts usually kept from view, in which respect +their dress is much more decent than that of any nation of Indians on +the Missouri. The seams of the leggings down the sides, are also fringed +and ornamented, and occasionally decorated with tufts of hair taken +from enemies whom they have slain. In making all these dresses, their +only thread is the sinew taken from the backs and loins of deer, elk, +buffaloe, or any other animal. + +The moccasin is of the deer, elk, or buffaloe skin, dressed without the +hair, though in winter they use the buffaloe skin with the hairy side +inward, as do most of the Indians who inhabit the buffaloe country. Like +the Mandan moccasin, it is made with a single seam on the outer edge, +and sewed up behind, a hole being left at the instep to admit the foot. +It is variously ornamented with figures wrought with porcupine quills, +and sometimes the young men most fond of dress, cover it with the skin +of a polecat, and trail at their heels the tail of the animal. + +The dress of the women consists of the same articles as that of their +husbands. The robe though smaller is worn in the same way: the moccasins +are precisely similar. The shirt or chemise reaches half way down the +leg, is in the same form, except that there is no shoulder-strap, the +seam coming quite up to the shoulder; though for women who give suck +both sides are open, almost down to the waist. It is also ornamented in +the same way with the addition of little patches of red cloth, edged +round with beads at the skirts. The chief ornament is over the breast, +where there are curious figures made with the usual luxury of porcupine +quills. Like the men they have a girdle round the waist, and when either +sex wishes to disengage the arm, it is drawn up through the hole near +the shoulder, and the lower part of the sleeve thrown behind the body. + +Children alone wear beads round their necks; grown persons of both sexes +prefer them suspended in little bunches from the ear, and sometimes +intermixed with triangular pieces of the shell of the pearl oyster. +Sometimes the men tie them in the same way to the hair of the forepart +of the head, and increase the beauty of it by adding the wings and tails +of birds, and particularly the feathers of the great eagle or calumet +bird, of which they are extremely fond. The collars are formed either +of sea shells procured from their relations to the southwest, or of the +sweet-scented grass which grows in the neighbourhood, and which they +twist or plait together, to the thickness of a man's finger, and then +cover with porcupine quills of various colours. The first of these is +worn indiscriminately by both sexes, the second principally confined +to the men, while a string of elk's tusks is a collar almost peculiar +to the women and children. Another collar worn by the men is a string +of round bones like the joints of a fish's back, but the collar most +preferred, because most honourable, is one of the claws of the brown +bear. To kill one of these animals is as distinguished an achievement as +to have put to death an enemy, and in fact with their weapons is a more +dangerous trial of courage. These claws are suspended on a thong of +dressed leather, and being ornamented with beads, are worn round the +neck by the warriors with great pride. The men also frequently wear the +skin of a fox, or a strip of otter skin round the head in the form of a +bandeau. + +In short, the dress of the Shoshonees is as convenient and decent as +that of any Indians we have seen. + +They have many more children than might have been expected, considering +their precarious means of support and their wandering life. This +inconvenience is however balanced by the wonderful facility with which +their females undergo the operations of child-birth. In the most +advanced state of pregnancy they continue their usual occupations, which +are scarcely interrupted longer than the mere time of bringing the child +into the world. + +The old men are few in number and do not appear to be treated with much +tenderness or respect. + +The tobacco used by the Shoshonees is not cultivated among them, but +obtained from the Indians of the Rocky mountains, and from some of the +bands of their own nation who live south of them; it is the same plant +which is in use among the Minnetarees, Mandans, and Ricaras. + +Their chief intercourse with other nations seems to consist in their +association with other Snake Indians, and with the Flatheads when they +go eastward to hunt buffaloe, and in the occasional visits made by the +Flatheads to the waters of the Columbia for the purpose of fishing. +Their intercourse with the Spaniards is much more rare, and it furnishes +them with a few articles, such as mules, and some bridles, and other +ornaments for horses, which, as well as some of their kitchen utensils, +are also furnished by the bands of Snake Indians from the Yellowstone. +The pearl ornaments which they esteem so highly come from other bands, +whom they represent as their friends and relations, living to the +southwest beyond the barren plains on the other side of the mountains: +these relations they say inhabit a good country, abounding with elk, +deer, bear, and antelope, where horses and mules are much more abundant +than they are here, or to use their own expression, as numerous as the +grass of the plains. + +The names of the Indians varies in the course of their life: originally +given in childhood, from the mere necessity of distinguishing objects, +or from some accidental resemblance to external objects, the young +warrior is impatient to change it by some achievement of his own. Any +important event, the stealing of horses, the scalping an enemy, or +killing a brown bear, entitles him at once to a new name which he then +selects for himself, and it is confirmed by the nation. Sometimes the +two names subsist together: thus, the chief Cameahwait, which means, +"one who never walks," has the war name of Tooettecone, or "black gun," +which he acquired when he first signalized himself. As each new action +gives a warrior a right to change his name, many of them have had +several in the course of their lives. To give to a friend his own name +is an act of high courtesy, and a pledge like that of pulling off the +moccasin of sincerity and hospitality. The chief in this way gave his +name to captain Clarke when he first arrived, and he was afterwards +known among the Shoshonees by the name of Cameahwait. + +The diseases incident to this state of life may be supposed to be few, +and chiefly the result of accidents. We were particularly anxious to +ascertain whether they had any knowledge of the venereal disorder. After +inquiring by means of the interpreter and his wife, we learnt that they +sometimes suffered from it, and that they most usually die with it; nor +could we discover what was their remedy. It is possible that this +disease may have reached them in their circuitous communications with +the whites through the intermediate Indians; but the situation of the +Shoshonees is so insulated, that it is not probable that it could have +reached them in that way, and the existence of such a disorder among the +Rocky mountains seems rather a proof of its being aboriginal. + + + + + CHAPTER XVII. + + The party, after procuring horses from the Shoshonees, proceed on + their journey through the mountains--The difficulties and dangers + of the route--A council held with another band of the Shoshonees, + of whom some account is given--They are reduced to the necessity of + killing their horses for food--Captain Clarke with a small party + precedes the main body in quest of food, and is hospitably received + by the Pierced-nose Indians--Arrival of the main body amongst this + tribe, with whom a council is held--They resolve to perform the + remainder of their journey in canoes--Sickness of the party--They + descend the Kooskooskee to its junction with Lewis river, after + passing several dangerous rapids--Short description of the manners + and dress of the Pierced-nose Indians. + + +August 27. We were now occupied in determining our route and procuring +horses from the Indians. The old guide who had been sent on by captain +Clarke, now confirmed, by means of our interpreter, what he had +already asserted, of a road up Berry creek which would lead to Indian +establishments on another branch of the Columbia: his reports however +were contradicted by all the Shoshonees. This representation we ascribed +to a wish on their part to keep us with them during the winter, as well +for the protection we might afford against their enemies, as for the +purpose of consuming our merchandise amongst them; and as the old +man promised to conduct us himself, that route seemed to be the most +eligible. We were able to procure some horses, though not enough for +all our purposes. This traffic, and our inquiries and councils with the +Indians, consumed the remainder of the day. + +August 28. The purchase of horses was resumed, and our stock raised +to twenty-two. Having now crossed more than once the country which +separates the head waters of the Missouri from those of the Columbia, we +can designate the easiest and most expeditious route for a portage; it +is as follows: + +From the forks of the river north 60° west, five miles to the point of +a hill on the right: then south 80° west, ten miles to a spot where the +creek is ten miles wide, and the highlands approach within two hundred +yards; southwest five miles to a narrow part of the bottom; then turning +south 70° west, two miles to a creek on the right: thence south 80° +west, three miles to a rocky point opposite to a thicket of pines on the +left; from that place west, three miles to the gap where is the fountain +of the Missouri: on leaving this fountain south 80° west, six miles +across the dividing ridge, to a run from the right passing several small +streams north 80° west, four miles over hilly ground to the east fork of +Lewis's river, which is here forty yards wide. + +Thursday 29. Captain Clarke joined us this morning, and we continued our +bargains for horses. The late misfortunes of the Shoshonees make the +price higher than common, so that one horse cost a pistol, one hundred +balls, some powder and a knife; another was changed for a musket, and in +this way we obtained twenty-nine. The horses themselves are young and +vigorous, but they are very poor, and most of them have sore backs in +consequence of the roughness of the Shoshonee saddle. We are therefore +afraid of loading them too heavily and are anxious to obtain one at +least for each man to carry the baggage, or the man himself, or in the +last resource to serve as food; but with all our exertions we could not +provide all our men with horses. We have, however, been fortunate in +obtaining for the last three days a sufficient supply of flesh, our +hunters having killed two or three deer every day. + +Friday 30. The weather was fine, and having now made all our purchases, +we loaded our horses, and prepared to start. The greater part of the +band who had delayed their journey on our account, were also ready to +depart. We then took our leave of the Shoshonees, who set out on their +visit to the Missouri at the same time that we accompanied by the old +guide, his four sons, and another Indian, began the descent of the +river, along the same road which captain Clarke had previously pursued. +After riding twelve miles we encamped on the south bank of the river, +and as the hunters had brought in three deer early in the morning we did +not feel the want of provisions. + +Saturday 31. At sunrise we resumed our journey, and halted for three +hours on Salmon creek to let the horses graze. We then proceeded to the +stream called Berry creek eighteen miles from the camp of last night: +as we passed along, the vallies and prairies were on fire in several +places, in order to collect the bands of the Shoshonees and the +Flatheads, for their journey to the Missouri. The weather was warm and +sultry, but the only inconvenience which we apprehend is a dearth of +food, of which we had to-day an abundance, having procured a deer, a +goose, one duck and a prairie fowl. On reaching Tower creek we left the +former track of captain Clarke, and began to explore the new route, +which is our last hope of getting out of the mountains. For four miles +the road, which is tolerably plain, led us along Berry creek to some old +Indian lodges where we encamped for the night; the next day, + +Sunday, September 1, 1805, we followed the same road which here left +the creek and turned to the northwest across the hills. During all day +we were riding over these hills, from which are many drains and small +streams running into the river to the left, and at the distance of +eighteen miles, came to a large creek called Fish creek emptying into +the Columbia which is about six miles from us. It had rained in the +course of the day, and commenced raining again towards evening. We +therefore determined not to leave the low grounds to night, and after +going up Fish creek four miles formed our encampment. The country over +which we passed is well watered, but poor and rugged or stony, except +the bottoms of Fish creek, and even these are narrow. Two men were sent +to purchase fish of the Indians at the mouth of the creek, and with the +dried fish which they obtained, and a deer and a few salmon killed by +the party, we were still well supplied. Two bear also were wounded but +we could procure neither of them. + +Monday 2. This morning all the Indians left us, except the old guide, +who now conducted us up Fish creek: at one mile and a half we passed a +branch of the river coming in through a low ground covered with pine on +the left, and two and a half miles further is a second branch from the +right; after continuing our route along the hills covered with pine, and +a low ground of the same growth, we arrived at the distance of three and +a half miles at the forks of the creek. The road which we were following +now turned up the east side of these forks, and as our guide informed us +led to the Missouri. We were therefore left without any track; but as no +time was to be lost we began to cut our road up the west branch of the +creek. This we effected with much difficulty; the thickets of trees +and brush through which we were obliged to cut our way required great +labour; the road itself was over the steep and rocky sides of the hills +where the horses could not move without danger of slipping down, while +their feet were bruised by the rocks and stumps of trees. Accustomed as +these animals were to this kind of life they suffered severely, several +of them fell to some distance down the sides of the hills, some turned +over with the baggage, one was crippled, and two gave out exhausted with +fatigue. After crossing the creek several times we at last made five +miles, with great fatigue and labour, and encamped on the left side of +the creek in a small stony low ground. It was not, however, till after +dark that the whole party was collected, and then, as it rained, and we +killed nothing, we passed an uncomfortable night. The party had been +too busily occupied with the horses to make any hunting excursion, and +though as we came along Fish creek we saw many beaver dams we saw none +of the animals themselves. In the morning, + +Tuesday 3, the horses were very stiff and weary. We sent back two men +for the load of the horse which had been crippled yesterday, and which +we had been forced to leave two miles behind. On their return, we set +out at eight o'clock, and proceeded up the creek, making a passage +through the brush and timber along its borders. The country is generally +supplied with pine, and in the low grounds is a great abundance of fir +trees, and under bushes. The mountains are high and rugged, and those to +the east of us, covered with snow. With all our precautions the horses +were very much injured in passing over the ridges and steep points of +the hills, and to add to the difficulty, at the distance of eleven +miles, the high mountains closed the creek, so that we were obliged +to leave the creek to the right, and cross the mountain abruptly. The +ascent was here so steep that several of the horses slipped and hurt +themselves, but at last we succeeded in crossing the mountain, and +encamped on a small branch of Fish creek. We had now made fourteen miles +in a direction nearly north from the river; but this distance, though +short, was very fatiguing, and rendered still more disagreeable by the +rain which began at three o'clock. At dusk it commenced snowing, and +continued till the ground was covered to the depth of two inches, when +it changed into a sleet. We here met with a serious misfortune the last +of our thermometers being broken by accident. After making a scanty +supper on a little corn and a few pheasants killed in the course of the +day, we laid down to sleep, and next morning, + +Wednesday 4, found every thing frozen, and the ground covered with snow. +We were obliged to wait some time in order to thaw the covers of the +baggage, after which we began our journey at eight o'clock. We crossed a +high mountain which joins the dividing ridge between the waters of the +creek we had been ascending, and those running to the north and west. +We had not gone more than six miles over the snow, when we reached the +head of a stream from the right, which directed its course more to the +westward. We descended the steep sides of the hills along its border, +and at the distance of three miles found a small branch coming in from +the eastward. We saw several of the argalia, but they were too shy to be +killed, and we therefore made a dinner from a deer shot by one of the +hunters. Then we pursued the course of the stream for three miles, till +it emptied itself into a river from the east. In the wide valley at +their junction, we discovered a large encampment of Indians: when we had +reached them and alighted from our horses, we were received with great +cordiality. A council was immediately assembled, white robes were +thrown over our soldiers, and the pipe of peace introduced. After +this ceremony, as it was too late to go any further, we encamped, and +continued smoking and conversing with the chiefs till a late hour. The +next morning, + +Thursday 5, we assembled the chiefs and warriors, and informed them who +we were, and the purpose for which we visited their country. All this +was however conveyed to them through so many different languages, that +it was not comprehended without difficulty. We therefore proceeded to +the more intelligible language of presents, and made four chiefs by +giving a medal and a small quantity of tobacco to each. We received in +turn from the principal chief, a present consisting of the skins of a +braro, an otter, and two antelopes, and were treated by the women to +some dried roots and berries. We then began to traffic for horses, and +succeeded in exchanging seven, purchasing eleven, for which we gave a +few articles of merchandise. + +This encampment consists of thirty-three tents, in which were about four +hundred souls, among whom eighty were men. They are called Ootlashoots, +and represent themselves as one band of a nation called Tushepaws, a +numerous people of four hundred and fifty tents, residing on the heads +of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, and some of them lower down the +latter river. In person these Indians are stout, and their complexion +lighter than that common among Indians. The hair of the men is worn +in queues of otter skin, falling in front over the shoulders. A shirt +of dressed skin covers the body to the knee, and on this is worn +occasionally a robe. To these were added leggings and moccasins. The +women suffer their hair to fall in disorder over the face and shoulders, +and their chief article of covering is a long shirt of skin, reaching +down to the ancles, and tied round the waist. In other respects, as also +in the few ornaments which they possess, their appearance is similar +to that of the Shoshonees; there is however a difference between the +language of these people which is still farther increased by the very +extraordinary pronunciation of the Ootlashoots. Their words have all a +remarkably guttural sound, and there is nothing which seems to represent +the tone of their speaking more exactly than the clucking of a fowl, or +the noise of a parrot. This peculiarity renders their voices scarcely +audible, except at a short distance, and when many of them are talking, +forms a strange confusion of sounds. The common conversation we +overheard, consisted of low guttural sounds occasionally broken by +a loud word or two, after which it would relapse and scarcely be +distinguished. They seem kind and friendly and willingly shared with us +berries and roots, which formed their only stock of provisions. Their +only wealth is their horses, which are very fine, and so numerous that +this party had with them at least five hundred. + +Friday 6. We continued this morning with the Ootlashoots, from whom we +purchased two more horses, and procured a vocabulary of their language. +The Ootlashoots set off about two o'clock to join the different bands +who were collecting at the three forks of the Missouri. We ourselves +proceeded at the same time, and taking a direction N. 30 W. crossed +within the distance of one mile and a half, a small river from the +right, and a creek coming in from the north. This river is the main +stream, and when it reaches the end of the valley, where the mountains +close in upon it, is joined by the river on which we encamped last +evening, as well as by the creek just mentioned. To the river thus +formed we gave the name of captain Clarke, he being the first white man +who had ever visited its waters. At the end of five miles on this course +we had crossed the valley, and reached the top of a mountain covered +with pine; this we descended along the steep sides and ravines for +a mile and a half, when we came to a spot on the river, where the +Ootlashoots had encamped a few days before. We then followed the course +of the river, which is from twenty-five to thirty yards wide, shallow, +stony, and the low grounds on its borders narrow. Within the distance of +three and a half miles, we crossed it several times, and after passing a +run on each side, encamped on its right bank, after making ten miles +during the afternoon. The horses were turned out to graze, but those we +had lately bought were secured and watched, lest they should escape, or +be stolen by their former owners. Our stock of flour was now exhausted, +and we had but little corn, and as our hunters had killed nothing except +two pheasants, our supper consisted chiefly of berries. + +Saturday, 7. The greater part of the day the weather was dark and rainy: +we continued through the narrow low grounds along the river, till at +the distance of six miles we came to a large creek from the left, after +which the bottoms widen. Four miles lower is another creek on the same +side, and the valley now extends from one to three miles, the mountains +on the left being high and bald, with snow on the summits, while the +country to the right is open and hilly. Four miles beyond this is a +creek running from the snow-top'd mountains, and several runs on both +sides of the river. Two miles from this last is another creek on the +left. The afternoon was now far advanced, but not being able to find a +fit place to encamp we continued six miles further till after dark, when +we halted for the night. The river here is still shallow and stony, but +is increased to the width of fifty yards. The valley through which we +passed is of a poor soil, and its fertility injured by the quantity of +stone scattered over it. We met two horses which had strayed from the +Indians and were now quite wild. No fish was to be seen in the river, +but we obtained a very agreeable supply of two deer, two cranes, and two +pheasants. + +Sunday, 8. We set out early: the snow-top'd hills on the left approach +the river near our camp, but we soon reached a valley four or five miles +wide, through which we followed the course of the river in a direction +due north. We passed three creeks on the right, and several runs +emptying themselves into the opposite side of the river. At the distance +of eleven miles the river turned more towards the west: we pursued it +for twelve miles, and encamped near a large creek coming in from the +right, which, from its being divided into four different channels, we +called Scattering creek. The valley continues to be a poor stony land, +with scarcely any timber, except some pine trees along the waters and +partially scattered on the hills to the right, which, as well as those +on the left, have snow on them. The plant which forces itself most on +our attention is a species of prickly pear very common on this part of +the river: it grows in clusters, in an oval form about the size of a +pigeon's egg, and its thorns are so strong and bearded, that when it +penetrates our feet it brings away the pear itself. We saw two mares +and a colt, which, like the horses seen yesterday, seemed to have lost +themselves and become wild. Our game to-day consisted of two deer, an +elk, and a prairie fowl. + +Monday, 9. We resumed our journey through the valley, and leaving +the road on our right crossed the Scattering creek, and halted at +the distance of twelve miles on a small run from the east, where we +breakfasted on the remains of yesterday's hunt: we here took a meridian +altitude, which gave the latitude of 46° 41' 38" 9"': we then continued, +and at the distance of four miles passed over to the left bank of the +river, where we found a large road through the valley. At this place is +a handsome stream of very clear water, a hundred yards wide with low +banks, and a bed formed entirely of gravel: it has every appearance of +being navigable, but as it contains no salmon, we presume there must +be some fall below which obstructs their passage. Our guide could not +inform us where this river discharged its waters; he said that as far as +he knew its course it ran along the mountains to the north, and that not +far from our present position it was joined by another stream nearly +as large as itself, which rises in the mountains to the east near the +Missouri, and flows through an extensive valley or open prairie. Through +this prairie is the great Indian road to the waters of the Missouri; and +so direct is the route, that in four days' journey from this place we +might reach the Missouri about thirty miles above what we called the +Gates of the Rocky mountains, or the spot where the valley of that river +widens into an extensive plain on entering the chain of mountains. At +ten miles from our camp is a small creek falling in from the eastward, +five miles below which we halted at a large stream which empties itself +on the west side of the river. It is a fine bold creek of clear water +about twenty yards wide, and we called it _Traveller's-rest_ creek; for +as our guide told us that we should here leave the river, we determined +to remain for the purpose of making celestial observations and +collecting some food, as the country through which we are to pass has no +game for a great distance. + +The valley of the river through which we have been passing is generally +a prairie from five to six miles in width, and with a cold gravelly +white soil. The timber which it possesses is almost exclusively pine, +chiefly of the long-leafed kind, with some spruce, and a species of fir +resembling the Scotch fir: near the water courses are also seen a few +narrow-leafed cottonwood trees, and the only underbrush is the redwood, +honeysuckle, and rosebushes. Our game was four deer, three geese, +four ducks, and three prairie fowls; one of the hunters brought in a +red-headed woodpecker of the large kind common in the United States, +but the first of the kind we have seen since leaving the Illinois. + +Tuesday, 10. The morning being fair all the hunters were sent out, +and the rest of the party employed in repairing their clothes: two +of them were sent to the junction of the river from the east, along +which the Indians go to the Missouri: it is about seven miles below +Traveller's-rest creek; the country at the forks is seven or eight miles +wide, level and open, but with little timber; its course is to the +north, and we incline to believe that this is the river which the +Minnetarees had described to us as running from south to north along the +west side of the Rocky mountains, not far from the sources of Medicine +river: there is moreover reason to suppose, that after going as far +northward as the head-waters of that river it turns to the westward and +joins the Tacootchetessee. Towards evening one of the hunters returned +with three Indians, whom he had met in his excursion up Traveller's-rest +creek: as soon as they saw him they prepared to attack him with arrows, +but he quieted them by laying down his gun and advancing towards them, +and soon persuaded them to come to the camp. Our Shoshonee guide could +not speak the language of these people, but by the universal language +of signs and gesticulations, which is perfectly intelligible among the +Indians, he found that these were three Tushepaw Flatheads in pursuit of +two men, supposed to be Shoshonees, who had stolen twenty-three of their +horses: we gave them some boiled venison and a few presents; such as a +fishhook, a steel to strike fire, and a little powder; but they seemed +better pleased with a piece of riband which we tied in the hair of each +of them. They were however in such haste, lest their horses should be +carried off, that two of them set off after sunset in quest of the +robbers: the third however was persuaded to remain with us and conduct +us to his relations: these he said were numerous, and resided on the +Columbia in the plain below the mountains. From that place he added, +the river was navigable to the ocean; that some of his relations had +been there last fall and seen an old white man who resided there by +himself, and who gave them some handkerchiefs like those we have. The +distance from this place is five sleeps or days' journey. When our +hunters had all joined us we found our provisions consisted of four +deer, a beaver, and three grouse. + +The observation of to-day gave 46° 48' 28" as the latitude of +Travellers-rest creek. + +Wednesday 11. Two of our horses having strayed away we were detained all +the morning before they were caught. In the meantime our Tushepaw Indian +became impatient of the delay, and set out to return home alone. As +usual we had dispatched four of our best hunters ahead, and as we hoped +with their aid and our present stock of provisions to subsist on the +route, we proceeded at three o'clock up the right side of the creek, and +encamped under some old Indian huts at the distance of seven miles. The +road was plain and good; the valley is however narrower than that which +we left and bordered by high and rugged hills to the right, while the +mountains on the left were covered with snow. The day was fair and warm, +the wind from the northwest. + +Thursday 12. There was a white frost this morning. We proceeded at seven +o'clock and soon passed a stream falling in on the right, near which was +an old Indian camp with a bath or sweating-house covered with earth. At +two miles distance we ascended a high, and thence continued through a +hilly and thickly timbered country for nine miles, when we came to the +forks of the creek, where the road branches up each fork. We followed +the western route, and finding that the creek made a considerable bend +at the distance of four miles, crossed a high mountain in order to avoid +the circuit. The road had been very bad during the first part of the +day, but the passage of the mountain, which was eight miles across, +was very painful to the horses, as we were obliged to go over steep +stony sides of hills and along the hollows and ravines, rendered more +disagreeable* by the fallen timber, chiefly pine, spruce pine and fir. +We at length reached the creek, having made twenty-three miles of a +route so difficult that some of the party did not join us before ten +o'clock. We found the account of the scantiness of game but too true, as +we were not able to procure any thing during the whole of yesterday, and +to-day we killed only a single pheasant. Along the road we observed many +of the pine trees pealed off, which is done by the Indians to procure +the inner bark for food in the spring. + +Friday 13. Two of the horses strayed away during the night, and one of +them being captain Lewis's, he remained with four men to search for them +while we proceeded up the creek: at the distance of two miles we came +to several springs issuing from large rocks of a coarse hard grit, +and nearly boiling hot. Those seem to be much frequented as there are +several paths made by elk, deer and other animals, and near one of +the springs a hole or Indian bath, and roads leading in different +directions. These embarrassed our guide, who mistaking the road took us +three miles out of the proper course over an exceedingly bad route. We +then fell into the right road, and proceeded on very well, when having +made five miles we stopped to refresh the horses. Captain Lewis here +joined us, but not having been able to find his horse two men were sent +back to continue the search. We then proceeded along the same kind of +country which we passed yesterday, and after crossing a mountain and +leaving the sources of the Travellers-rest creek on the left, reached +after five miles riding a small creek which also came in from the left +hand, passing through open glades, some of which were half a mile wide. +The road which had been as usual rugged and stony, became firm, plain +and level after quitting the head of Travellers-rest. We followed the +course of this new creek for two miles and encamped at a spot where the +mountains close on each side. Other mountains covered with snow are in +view to the southeast and southwest. We were somewhat more fortunate +to-day in killing a deer and several pheasants which were of the common +species, except that the tail was black. + +Saturday 14. The day was very cloudy with rain and hail in the vallies, +while on the top of the mountains some snow fell. We proceeded early, +and continuing along the right side of Glade creek crossed a high +mountain, and at the distance of six miles reached the place where it is +joined by another branch of equal size from the right. Near the forks +the Tushepaws have had an encampment which is but recently abandoned, +for the grass is entirely destroyed by horses, and two fish weirs across +the creek are still remaining; no fish were however to be seen. We here +passed over to the left side of the creek and began the ascent of a very +high and steep mountain nine miles across. On reaching the other side we +found a large branch from the left, which seems to rise in the snowy +mountains to the south and southeast. We continued along the creek two +miles further, when night coming on we encamped opposite a small island +at the mouth of a branch on the right side of the river. The mountains +which we crossed to-day were much more difficult than those of +yesterday; the last was particularly fatiguing, being steep and stony, +broken by fallen timber, and thickly overgrown by pine, spruce, fir, +haematack and tamarac. Although we had made only seventeen miles we were +all very weary. The whole stock of animal food was now exhausted, and +we therefore killed a colt, on which we made a hearty supper. From +this incident we called the last creek we had passed from the south +Colt-killed creek. The river itself is eighty yards wide, with a swift +current, and a stony channel. Its Indian name is Kooskooskee. + +Sunday 15. At an early hour we proceeded along the right side of the +Kooskooskee over steep rocky points of land, till at the distance of +four miles we reached an old Indian fishing place: the road here turned +to the right of the water, and began to ascend a mountain: but the fire +and wind had prostrated or dried almost all the timber on the south +side, and the ascents were so steep that we were forced to wind in every +direction round the high knobs which constantly impeded our progress. +Several of the horses lost their foot-hold and slipped: one of them +which was loaded with a desk and small trunk, rolled over and over for +forty yards, till his fall was stopped by a tree. The desk was broken; +but the poor animal escaped without much injury. After clambering in +this way for four miles, we came to a high snowy part of the mountain +where was a spring of water, at which we halted two hours to refresh our +horses. + +On leaving the spring the road continued as bad as it was below, and the +timber more abundant. At four miles we reached the top of the mountain, +and foreseeing no chance of meeting with water, we encamped on the +northern side of the mountain, near an old bank of snow, three feet +deep. Some of this we melted, and supped on the remains of the colt +killed yesterday. Our only game to-day was two pheasants, and the horses +on which we calculated as a last resource begin to fail us, for two of +them were so poor, and worn out with fatigue, that we were obliged to +leave them behind. All around us are high rugged mountains, among which +is a lofty range from southeast to northwest, whose tops are without +timber, and in some places covered with snow. The night was cloudy and +very cold, and three hours before daybreak, + +Monday 16, it began to snow, and continued all day, so that by evening +it was six or eight inches deep. This covered the track so completely, +that we were obliged constantly to halt and examine, lest we should +lose the route. In many places we had nothing to guide us except the +branches of the trees which, being low, have been rubbed by the burdens +of the Indian horses. The road was, like that of yesterday, along +steep hill sides, obstructed with fallen timber, and a growth of eight +different species of pine, so thickly strewed that the snow falls from +them as we pass, and keeps us continually wet to the skin, and so cold, +that we are anxious lest our feet should be frozen, as we have only thin +moccasins to defend them. + +At noon we halted to let the horses feed on some long grass on the south +side of the mountains, and endeavoured by making fires to keep ourselves +warm. As soon as the horses were refreshed, captain Clarke went ahead +with one man, and at the distance of six miles reached a stream from the +right, and prepared fires by the time of our arrival at dusk. We here +encamped in a piece of low ground, thickly timbered, but scarcely large +enough to permit us to lie level. We had now made thirteen miles. We +were all very wet, cold, and hungry: but although before setting out +this morning, we had seen four deer, yet we could not procure any of +them, and were obliged to kill a second colt for our supper. + +Tuesday 17. Our horses became so much scattered during the night, that +we were detained till one o'clock before they were all collected. We +then continued our route over high rough knobs, and several drains and +springs, and along a ridge of country separating the waters of two small +rivers. The road was still difficult, and several of the horses fell and +injured themselves very much, so that we were unable to advance more +than ten miles to a small stream, on which we encamped. + +We had killed a few pheasants, but these being insufficient for our +subsistence, we killed another of the colts. This want of provisions, +and the extreme fatigue to which we were subjected, and the dreary +prospects before us, began to dispirit the men. It was therefore agreed +that captain Clarke should go on ahead with six hunters, and endeavour +to kill something for the support of the party. He therefore set out, + +Wednesday 18, early in the morning in hopes of finding a level country +from which he might send back some game. His route lay S. 85° W., along +the same high dividing ridge, and the road was still very bad; but he +moved on rapidly, and at the distance of twenty miles was rejoiced on +discovering far off an extensive plain towards the west and southwest, +bounded by a high mountain. He halted an hour to let the horses eat a +little grass on the hill sides, and then went on twelve and a half miles +till he reached a bold creek, running to the left, on which he encamped. +To this stream he gave the very appropriate name of Hungry creek; for +having procured no game, they had nothing to eat. + +In the meantime we were detained till after eight o'clock by the loss of +one of our horses which had strayed away and could not be found. We then +proceeded, but having soon finished the remainder of the colt killed +yesterday, felt the want of provisions, which was more sensible from our +meeting with no water, till towards nightfall we found some in a ravine +among the hills. By pushing on our horses almost to their utmost +strength, we made eighteen miles. + +We then melted some snow, and supped on a little portable soup, a few +canisters of which, with about twenty weight of bears oil, are our only +remaining means of subsistence. Our guns are scarcely of any service, +for there is no living creature in these mountains, except a few small +pheasants, a small species of gray squirrel, and a blue bird of the +vulture kind about the size of a turtle dove or jay, and even these are +difficult to shoot. + +Thursday 19. Captain Clarke proceeded up the creek, along which the +road was more steep and stony than any he had yet passed, At six miles +distance he reached a small plain, in which he fortunately found a +horse, on which he breakfasted, and hung the rest on a tree for the +party in the rear. Two miles beyond this he left the creek, and crossed +three high mountains, rendered almost impassable from the steepness of +the ascent and the quantity of fallen timber. After clambering over +these ridges and mountains, and passing the heads of some branches of +Hungry creek, he came to a large creek running westward. This he +followed for four miles, then turned to the right down the mountain, +till he came to a small creek to the left. Here he halted, having made +twenty-two miles on his course, south eighty degrees west, though the +winding route over the mountains almost doubled the distance. On +descending the last mountain, the heat became much more sensible after +the extreme cold he had experienced for several days past. Besides the +breakfast in the morning, two pheasants were their only food during the +day, and the only kinds of birds they saw were the blue jay, a small +white-headed hawk, a larger hawk, crows, and ravens. + +We followed soon after sunrise. At six miles the ridge terminated and we +had before us the cheering prospect of the large plain to the southwest. +On leaving the ridge we again ascended and went down several mountains, +and six miles further came to Hungry creek where it was fifteen yards +wide, and received the waters of a branch from the north. We went up it +on a course nearly due west, and at three miles crossed a second branch +flowing from the same quarter. The country is thickly covered with pine +timber, of which we have enumerated eight distinct species. Three miles +beyond this last branch of Hungry creek we encamped, after a fatiguing +route of eighteen miles. The road along the creek is a narrow rocky path +near the borders of very high precipices, from which a fall seems almost +inevitable destruction. One of our horses slipped and rolling over with +his load down the hill side, which was nearly perpendicular and strewed +with large irregular rocks, nearly a hundred yards, and did not stop +till he fell into the creek: we all expected he was killed, but to our +astonishment, on taking off his load, he rose, and seemed but little +injured, and in twenty minutes proceeded with his load. Having no other +provision we took some portable soup, our only refreshment during the +day. This abstinence, joined with fatigue, has a visible effect on our +health. The men are growing weak and losing their flesh very fast: +several are afflicted with the dysentery, and eruptions of the skin are +very common. + +Friday 20. Captain Clarke went on through a country as rugged as usual, +till on passing a low mountain he came at the distance of four miles to +the forks of a large creek. Down this he kept on a course south 60° west +for two miles, then turning to the right, continued over a dividing +ridge where were the heads of several little streams, and at twelve +miles distance descended the last of the rocky mountains and reached the +level country. A beautiful open plain partially supplied with pine now +presented itself. He continued for five miles when he discovered three +Indian boys, who, on observing the party, ran off and hid themselves in +the grass. Captain Clarke immediately alighted, and giving his horse +and gun to one of the men went after the boys. He soon relieved their +apprehensions and sent them forward to the village about a mile off with +presents of small pieces of riband. Soon after the boys had reached +home, a man came out to meet the party, with great caution, but he +conducted them to a large tent in the village, and all the inhabitants +gathered round to view with a mixture of fear and pleasure these +wonderful strangers. The conductor now informed captain Clarke by signs, +that the spacious tent was the residence of the great chief, who had set +out three days ago with all the warriors to attack some of their enemies +towards the southwest; that he would not return before fifteen or +eighteen days, and that in the meantime there were only a few men left +to guard the women and children. They now set before them a small piece +of buffaloe meat, some dried salmon, berries, and several kinds of +roots. Among these last is one which is round and much like an onion in +appearance and sweet to the taste: it is called quamash, and is eaten +either in its natural state, or boiled into a kind of soup or made into +a cake, which is then called pasheco. After the long abstinence this was +a sumptuous treat; we returned the kindness of the people by a few small +presents, and then went on in company with one of the chiefs to a second +village in the same plain, at the distance of two miles. Here the party +was treated with great kindness and passed the night. The hunters were +sent out, but though they saw some tracks of deer were not able to +procure any thing. + +We were detained till ten o'clock before we could collect our scattered +horses; we then proceeded for two miles, when to our great joy we found +the horse which captain Clarke had killed, and a note apprising us of +his intention of going to the plains towards the southwest, and collect +provisions by the time we reached him. At one o'clock we halted on a +small stream, and made a hearty meal of horse flesh. On examination it +now appeared that one of the horses was missing, and the man in whose +charge he had been, was directed to return and search for him. He came +back in about two hours without having been able to find the horse; but +as the load was too valuable to be lost, two of the best woodsmen were +directed to continue the search while we proceeded. Our general course +was south 25° west through a thick forest of large pine, which has +fallen in many places, and very much obstructs the road. After making +about fifteen miles we encamped on a ridge where we could find but +little grass and no water. We succeeded, however, in procuring a little +from a distance, and supped on the remainder of the horse. + +On descending the heights of the mountains the soil becomes gradually +more fertile, and the land through which we passed this evening, is of +an excellent quality. It has a dark gray soil, though very broken, and +with large masses of gray free-stone above the ground in many places. +Among the vegetable productions we distinguished the alder, honeysuckle, +and huckleberry, common in the United States, and a species of +honeysuckle, known only westward of the Rocky mountains, which rises to +the height of about four feet, and bears a white berry. There is also a +plant resembling the chokecherry, which grows in thick clumps eight or +ten feet high, and bears a black berry with a single stone of a sweetish +taste. The arbor vitæ too, is very common, and grows to a great size, +being from two to six feet in diameter. + +Saturday 21. The free use of food, to which he had not been accustomed, +made captain Clarke very sick both yesterday evening and during the +whole of to-day. He therefore sent out all the hunters and remained +himself at the village, as well on account of his sickness as for the +purpose of avoiding suspicion and collecting information from the +Indians as to the route. + +The two villages consist of about thirty double tents, and the +inhabitants call themselves Chopunnish or Pierced-nose. The chief drew +a chart of the river, and explained, that a greater chief than himself, +who governed this village and was called the Twisted-hair, was now +fishing at the distance of half a day's ride down the river: his chart +made the Kooskooskee fork a little below his camp, a second fork below, +still further on a large branch flowed in on each side, below which the +river passed the mountains: here was a great fall of water, near which +lived white people, from whom were procured the white beads and brass +ornaments worn by the women. + +A chief of another band made a visit this morning, and smoked with +captain Clarke. The hunters returned without having been able to kill +any thing; captain Clarke purchased as much dried salmon, roots, and +berries as he could, with the few articles he chanced to have in his +pockets, and having sent them by one of the men and a hired Indian back +to captain Lewis, he went on towards the camp of the Twisted-hair. It +was four o'clock before he set out, and the night soon came on; but +having met an Indian coming from the river, they engaged him by a +present of a neckcloth, to guide them to the Twisted-hair's camp. For +twelve miles they proceeded through the plain before they reached the +river hills, which are very high and steep. The whole valley from these +hills to the Rocky mountain is a beautiful level country, with a rich +soil covered with grass: there is, however, but little timber, and the +ground is badly watered: the plain is so much lower than the surrounding +hills, or so much sheltered by them, that the weather is quite warm, +while the cold of the mountains was extreme. From the top of the river +hills they proceeded down for three miles till they reached the water +side, between eleven and twelve o'clock at night: here we found a small +camp of five squaws and three children, the chief himself being +encamped, with two others, on a small island in the river: the guide +called to him and he soon came over. Captain Clarke gave him a medal, +and they smoked together till one o'clock. + +We could not set out till eleven o'clock, because being obliged in the +evening to loosen our horses to enable them to find subsistence, it +is always difficult to collect them in the morning. At that hour we +continued along the ridge on which we had slept, and at a mile and a +half reached a large creek running to our left, just above its junction +with one of its branches. We proceeded down the low grounds of this +creek, which are level, wide, and heavily timbered, but turned to the +right at the distance of two and a half miles, and began to pass the +broken and hilly country; but the thick timber had fallen in so many +places that we could scarcely make our way. After going five miles +we passed the creek on which captain Clarke had encamped during the +night of the 19th, and continued five miles further over the same kind +of road, till we came to the forks of a large creek. We crossed the +northern branch of this stream, and proceeded down it on the west side +for a mile: here we found a small plain where there was tolerable grass +for the horses, and therefore remained during the night, having made +fifteen miles on a course S. 30° W. + +The arbor vitæ increases in size and quantity as we advance: some of +the trees we passed to-day being capable of forming periogues at least +forty-five feet in length. We were so fortunate also as to kill a few +pheasants and a prairie wolf, which, with the remainder of the horse, +supplied us with one meal, the last of our provisions, our food for the +morrow being wholly dependent on the chance of our guns. + +Sunday, 22. Captain Clarke passed over to the island with the +Twisted-hair, who seemed to be cheerful and sincere in his conduct. +The river at this place is about one hundred and sixty yards wide, but +interrupted by shoals, and the low grounds on its borders are narrow. +The hunters brought in three deer; after which Captain Clarke left his +party, and accompanied by the Twisted-hair and his son, rode back to the +village, where he arrived about sunset: they then walked up together to +the second village, where we had just arrived. We had intended to set +out early, but one of the men having neglected to hobble his horse he +strayed away, and we were obliged to wait till nearly twelve o'clock. We +then proceeded on a western course for two and a half miles, when we met +the hunters sent by Captain Clarke from the village, seven and a half +miles distant, with provisions. This supply was most seasonable, as +we had tasted nothing since last night, and the fish, and roots, and +berries, in addition to a crow which we killed on the route, completely +satisfied our hunger. After this refreshment we proceeded in much better +spirits, and at a few miles were overtaken by the two men who had been +sent back after a horse on the 20th. They were perfectly exhausted with +the fatigue of walking and the want of food; but as we had two spare +horses they were mounted and brought on to the village. + +They had set out about three o'clock in the afternoon of the 20th with +one horse between them: after crossing the mountain they came to the +place where we had eaten the horse. Here they encamped, and having no +food made a fire and roasted the head of the horse, which even our +appetites had spared, and supped on the ears, skin, lips, &c. of the +animal. The next morning, 21st, they found the track of the horse, +and pursuing it recovered the saddle-bags, and at length about eleven +o'clock, the horse himself. Being now both mounted, they set out to +return and slept at a small stream: during the day they had nothing at +all except two pheasants, which were so torn to pieces by the shot, that +the head and legs were the only parts fit for food. In this situation +they found the next morning, 22d, that during the night their horses had +run away from them or been stolen by the Indians. They searched for them +until nine o'clock, when seeing that they could not recover them and +fearful of starving if they remained where they were, they set out on +foot to join us, carrying the saddle-bags alternately. They walked as +fast as they could during the day, till they reached us in a deplorable +state of weakness and inanition. + +As we approached the village, most of the women, though apprised of our +being expected, fled with their children into the neighbouring woods. +The men, however, received us without any apprehension, and gave us +a plentiful supply of provisions. The plains were now crowded with +Indians, who came to see the persons of the whites and the strange +things they brought with them: but as our guide was perfectly a stranger +to their language we could converse by signs only. Our inquiries were +chiefly directed to the situation of the country, the courses of the +rivers, and the Indian villages, of all which we received information +from several of the Indians, and as their accounts varied but little +from each other, we were induced to place confidence in them. Among +others, the Twisted-hair drew a chart of the river on a white elk skin. +According to this, the Kooskooskee forks a few miles from this place; +two days towards the south is another and larger fork on which the +Shoshonee or Snake Indians fish: five days' journey further is a large +river from the northwest into which Clarke's river empties itself: from +the mouth of that river to the falls is five days' journey further: on +all the forks as well as on the main river great numbers of Indians +reside, and at the falls are establishments of whites. This was the +story of the Twisted-hair. + +Monday 23. The chiefs and warriors were all assembled this morning, and +we explained to them where we came from, the objects of our visiting +them, and our pacific intentions towards all the Indians. This being +conveyed by signs, might not have been perfectly comprehended, but +appeared to give perfect satisfaction. We now gave a medal to two of +the chiefs, a shirt in addition to the medal already received by the +Twisted-hair, and delivered a flag and a handkerchief for the grand +chief on his return. To these were added a knife, a handkerchief and a +small piece of tobacco for each chief. The inhabitants did not give us +any provisions gratuitously. We therefore purchased a quantity of fish, +berries (chiefly red haws) and roots; and in the afternoon went on to +the second village. The Twisted-hair introduced us into his own tent, +which consisted however of nothing more than pine bushes and bark, +and gave us some dried salmon boiled. We continued our purchases, and +obtained as much provision as our horses could carry in their present +weak condition as far as the river. The men exchanged a few old +canisters for dressed elk skins, of which they made shirts: great crowds +of the natives are round us all night, but we have not yet missed any +thing except a knife and a few other articles stolen yesterday from a +shot pouch. At dark we had a hard wind from the southwest accompanied +with rain which lasted half an hour, but in the morning, + +Tuesday 24, the weather was fair. We sent back Colter in search of the +horses lost in the mountains, and having collected the rest set out +at ten o'clock along the same route already passed by captain Clarke +towards the river. All round the village the women are busily employed +in gathering and dressing the pasheco root, of which large quantities +are heaped up in piles over the plain. We now felt severely the +consequence of eating heartily after our late privations: captain Lewis +and two of the men were taken very ill last evening, and to-day he +could scarcely sit on his horse, while others were obliged to be put +on horseback, and some from extreme weakness and pain, were forced to +lie down along side of the road for some time. At sunset we reached +the island where the hunters had been left on the 22d. They had been +unsuccessful, having killed only two deer since that time, and two of +them are very sick. A little below this island is a larger one on which +we encamped, and administered Rush's pills to the sick. + +Wednesday 25. The weather was very hot, and oppressive to the party, +most of whom are now complaining of sickness. Our situation indeed, +rendered it necessary to husband our remaining strength, and it was +determined to proceed down the river in canoes. Captain Clarke therefore +set out with the Twisted-hair and two young men, in quest of timber for +canoes. As he went down the river he crossed at the distance of a mile a +creek from the right, which from the rocks that obstructed its passage, +he called Rockdam river. The hills along the river are high and steep: +the low grounds are narrow, and the navigation of the river embarrassed +by two rapids. At the distance of three miles further he reached two +nearly equal forks of the river, one of which flowed in from the north. +Here he rested for an hour, and cooked a few salmon which one of the +Indians caught with a gig. Here too, he was joined by two canoes of +Indians from below: they were long, steady, and loaded with the +furniture and provisions of two families. He now crossed the south fork, +and returned to the camp on the south side, through a narrow pine bottom +the greater part of the way, in which was found much fine timber for +canoes. One of the Indian boats with two men, set out at the same time, +and such was their dexterity in managing the pole, that they reached +camp within fifteen minutes after him, although they had to drag the +canoe over three rapids. He found captain Lewis, and several of the men +still very sick; and distributed to such as were in need of it, salts +and tartar emetic. + +Thursday 26. Having resolved to go down to some spot calculated for +building canoes, we set out early this morning and proceeded five miles, +and encamped on low ground on the south, opposite the forks of the +river. But so weak were the men that several were taken sick in coming +down; the weather being oppressively hot. Two chiefs and their families +followed us, and encamped with a great number of horses near us: and +soon after our arrival we were joined by two Indians, who came down +the north fork on a raft. We purchased some fresh salmon, and having +distributed axes, and portioned off the labour of the party, began, + +Friday 27, at an early hour, the preparations for making five canoes. +But few of the men, however, were able to work, and of these several +were soon taken ill, as the day proved very hot. The hunters too, +returned without any game, and seriously indisposed, so that nearly the +whole party was now ill. We procured some fresh salmon; and Colter, who +now returned with one of the horses, brought half a deer, which was very +nourishing to the invalids: several Indians from a camp below, came up +to see us. + +Saturday 28. The men continue ill, though some of those first attacked +are recovering. Their general complaint is a heaviness at the stomach, +and a lax, which is rendered more painful by the heat of the weather, +and the diet of fish and roots, to which they are confined, as no game +is to be procured. A number of Indians collect about us in the course of +the day to gaze at the strange appearance of every thing belonging to +us. + +Sunday 29. The morning was cool, the wind from the southwest; but in the +afternoon the heat returned. The men continue ill; but all those who are +able to work are occupied at the canoes. The spirits of the party were +much recruited by three deer brought in by the hunters; and the next +day, + +Monday 30th, the sick began to recruit their strength, the morning being +fair and pleasant. The Indians pass in great numbers up and down the +river, and we observe large quantities of small duck going down this +morning. + +Tuesday, October 1, 1805. The morning was cool, the wind easterly, but +the latter part of the day was warm. We were visited by several Indians +from the tribes below, and others from the main south fork. To two of +the most distinguished men, we made presents of a ring and broach, +and to five others a piece of riband, a little tobacco, and the fifth +part of a neckcloth. We now dried our clothes and other articles, and +selected some articles such as the Indians admire, in order to purchase +some provisions, as we have nothing left except a little dried fish, +which operates as a complete purgative. + +Wednesday 2. The day is very warm. Two men were sent to the village with +a quantity of these articles to purchase food. We are now reduced to +roots, which produce violent pains in the stomach. Our work continued +as usual, and many of the party are convalescent. The hunters returned +in the afternoon with nothing but a small prairie-wolf, so that our +provisions being exhausted, we killed one of the horses to eat, and +provide soup for the sick. + +Thursday 3. The fine cool morning and easterly wind had an agreeable +effect upon the party, most of whom are now able to work. The Indians +from below left us, and we were visited by others from different +quarters. + +Friday 4. Again we had a cool east wind from the mountains. The men were +now much better, and captain Lewis himself so far recovered as to walk +about a little. Three Indians arrived to-day from the Great river to the +south. The two men also returned from the village with roots and fish, +and as the flesh of the horse killed yesterday was exhausted, we were +confined to that diet, although unwholesome as well as unpleasant. The +afternoon was warm. + +Saturday 5. The wind easterly, and the weather cool. The canoes being +nearly finished it became necessary to dispose of our horses. They were +therefore collected to the number of thirty-eight, and being branded and +marked were delivered to three Indians, the two brothers and the son of +a chief, who promises to accompany us down the river. To each of those +men we gave a knife and some small articles, and they agreed to take +good care of the horses till our return. The hunters with all their +diligence are unable to kill any thing, the hills being high and rugged, +and the woods too dry to hunt deer, which is the only game in the +country. We therefore continue to eat dried fish and roots, which are +purchased from the squaws, by means of small presents, but chiefly white +beads, of which they are extravagantly fond. Some of these roots seem to +possess very active properties, for after supping on them this evening, +we were swelled to such a degree as to be scarcely able to breathe for +several hours. Towards night we lanched two canoes which proved to be +very good. + +Sunday 6. This morning is again cool, and the wind easterly. The general +course of the winds seems to resemble that which we observed on the east +side of the mountain. While on the head waters of the Missouri, we had +every morning a cool wind from the west. At this place a cool breeze +springs up during the latter part of the night, or near daybreak, and +continues till seven or eight o'clock, when it subsides, and the latter +part of the day is warm. Captain Lewis is not so well as he was, and +captain Clarke was also taken ill. We had all our saddles buried in a +cache near the river, about half a mile below, and deposited at the same +time a canister of powder, and a bag of balls. The time which could be +spared from our labours on the canoes, was devoted to some astronomical +observations. The latitude of our camp as deduced from the mean of two +observations is 46° 34' 56" 3"' north. + +Monday 7. This morning all the canoes were put in the water and loaded, +the oars fixed, and every preparation made for setting out but when we +were all ready, the two chiefs who had promised to accompany us, were +not to be found, and at the same time we missed a pipe tomahawk. We +therefore proceeded without them. Below the forks this river is called +the Kooskooskee, and is a clear rapid stream, with a number of shoals +and difficult places. For some miles the hills are steep, the low +grounds narrow, but then succeeds an open country with a few trees +scattered along the river. At the distance of nine miles is a small +creek on the left. We passed in the course of the day ten rapids, in +descending which, one of the canoes struck a rock, and sprung a leak: +we however continued for nineteen miles, and encamped on the left side +of the river, opposite to the mouth of a small run. Here the canoe was +unloaded and repaired, and two lead canisters of powder deposited; +several camps of Indians were on the sides of the river, but we had +little intercourse with any of them. + +Tuesday 8. We set out at nine o'clock. At eight and a half miles we +passed an island: four and a half miles lower a second island, opposite +a small creek on the left side of the river. Five miles lower is another +island on the left: a mile and a half below which is a fourth. At a +short distance from this is a large creek from the right, to which we +gave the name of Colter's creek, from Colter one of the men. We had +left this creek about a mile and a half, and were passing the last of +fifteen rapids which we had been fortunate enough to escape, when one of +the canoes struck, and a hole being made in her side, she immediately +filled and sunk. The men, several of whom could not swim, clung to the +boat till one of our canoes could be unloaded, and with the assistance +of an Indian boat, they were all brought to shore. All the goods were so +much wet, that we were obliged to halt for the night, and spread them +out to dry. While all this was exhibited, it was necessary to place two +sentinels over the merchandise, for we found that the Indians, though +kind and disposed to give us every aid during our distress, could not +resist the temptation of pilfering some of the small articles. We passed +during our route of twenty miles to-day, several encampments of Indians +on the islands, and near the rapids, which places are chosen as most +convenient for taking salmon. At one of these camps we found our two +chiefs, who after promising to descend the river with us, had left us; +they however willingly came on board after we had gone through the +ceremony of smoking. + +Wednesday, 9. The morning was as usual, cool; but as the weather both +yesterday and to-day was cloudy, our merchandise dried but slowly. The +boat, though much injured, was repaired by ten o'clock so as to be +perfectly fit for service; but we were obliged to remain during the day +till the articles were sufficiently dry to be reloaded: the interval +we employed in purchasing fish for the voyage and conversing with the +Indians. In the afternoon we were surprised at hearing that our old +Shoshonee guide and his son had left us, and been seen running up the +river several miles above. As he had never given any notice of his +intention, nor had even received his pay for guiding us, we could not +imagine the cause of his desertion, nor did he ever return to explain +his conduct. We requested the chief to send a horseman after him to +request that he would return and receive what we owed him. From this +however he dissuaded us, and said very frankly, that his nation, the +Chopunnish, would take from the old man any presents that he might have +on passing their camp. + +The Indians came about our camp at night, and were very gay and +good-humoured with the men. Among other exhibitions was that of a squaw +who appeared to be crazy: she sang in a wild incoherent manner, and +would offer to the spectators all the little articles she possessed, +scarifying herself in a horrid manner if any one refused her present: +she seemed to be an object of pity among the Indians, who suffered her +to do as she pleased without interruption. + +Thursday, 10. A fine morning. We loaded the canoes and set off at seven +o'clock. At the distance of two and a half miles we had passed three +islands, the last of which is opposite to a small stream on the right. +Within the following three and a half miles is another island and +a creek on the left, with wide low grounds, containing willow and +cottonwood trees, on which were three tents of Indians. Two miles +lower is the head of a large island, and six and a half miles further +we halted at an encampment of eight lodges on the left, in order to +view a rapid before us: we had already passed eight, and some of them +difficult; but this was worse than any of them, being a very hazardous +ripple strewed with rocks: we here purchased roots and dined with the +Indians. Among them was a man from the falls, who says that he saw white +people at that place and is very desirous of going down with us; an +offer which however we declined. Just above this camp we had passed a +tent, near which was an Indian bathing himself in a small pond or hole +of water, warmed by throwing in hot stones. After finishing our meal we +descended the rapid with no injury, except to one of our boats which +ran against a rock, but in the course of an hour was brought off with +only a small split in her side. This ripple, from its appearance and +difficulty, we named the Rugged rapid. We went on over five other rapids +of a less dangerous kind, and at the distance of five miles reached a +large fork of the river from the south; and after coming twenty miles, +halted below the junction on the right side of the river: our arrival +soon attracted the attention of the Indians, who flocked in all +directions to see us. In the evening the Indian from the falls, whom we +had seen at the Rugged rapid, joined us with his son in a small canoe, +and insisted on accompanying us to the falls. Being again reduced to +fish and roots we made an experiment to vary our food by purchasing* +a few dogs, and after having been accustomed to horse-flesh, felt no +disrelish to this new dish. The Chopunnish have great numbers of dogs +which they employ for domestic purposes, but never eat; and our using +the flesh of that animal soon brought us into ridicule as dog-eaters. + +The country at the junction of the two rivers is an open plain on all +sides, broken towards the left by a distant ridge of highland, thinly +covered with timber: this is the only body of timber which the country +possesses; for at the forks there is not a tree to be seen, and during +almost the whole descent of sixty miles down the Kooskooskee from its +forks there are very few. This southern branch is in fact the main +stream of Lewis's river on which we encamped when among the Shoshonees. +The Indians inform us that it is navigable for sixty miles; that not far +from its mouth it receives a branch from the south; and a second and +larger branch, two days' march up, and nearly parallel to the first +Chopunnish villages, we met near the mountains. This branch is called +Pawnashte, and is the residence of a chief, who, according to their +expression, has more horses than he can count. The river has many +rapids, near which are situated many fishing camps; there being ten +establishments of this before reaching the first southern branch; one +on that stream, five between that and the Pawnashte; one on that river, +and two above it; besides many other Indians who reside high up on the +more distant waters of this river. All these Indians belong to the +Chopunnish nation, and live in tents of an oblong form, covered with +flat roofs. + +At its mouth Lewis's river is about two hundred and fifty yards wide, +and its water is of a greenish blue colour. The Kooskooskee, whose +waters are clear as crystal, one hundred and fifty yards in width, and +after the union the river enlarges to the space of three hundred yards: +at the point of the union is an Indian cabin, and in Lewis's river a +small island. + +The Chopunnish or Pierced-nose nation, who reside on the Kooskooskee +and Lewis's rivers, are in person stout, portly, well-looking men: the +women are small, with good features, and generally handsome, though the +complexion of both sexes is darker than that of the Tushepaws. In dress +they resemble that nation, being fond of displaying their ornaments. The +buffaloe or elk-skin robe decorated with beads, sea-shells, chiefly +mother-of-pearl, attached to an otter-skin collar and hung in the hair, +which falls in front in two queues; feathers, paints of different kinds, +principally white, green, and light blue, all of which they find in +their own country: these are the chief ornaments they use. In the winter +they wear a short shirt of dressed skins, long painted leggings and +moccasins, and a plait of twisted grass round the neck. + +The dress of the women is more simple, consisting of a long shirt of +argalia or ibex skin, reaching down to the ankles without a girdle: +to this are tied little pieces of brass and shells and other small +articles; but the head is not at all ornamented. The dress of the female +is indeed more modest, and more studiously so than any we have observed, +though the other sex is careless of the indelicacy of exposure. + +The Chopunnish have very few amusements, for their life is painful and +laborious; and all their exertions are necessary to earn even their +precarious subsistence. During the summer and autumn they are busily +occupied in fishing for salmon, and collecting their winter store +of roots. In the winter they hunt the deer on snow shoes over the +plains, and towards spring cross the mountains to the Missouri for the +purpose of trafficking for buffaloe robes. The inconveniences of that +comfortless life are increased by frequent encounters with their enemies +from the west, who drive them over the mountains with the loss of their +horses, and sometimes the lives of many of the nation. Though originally +the same people, their dialect varies very perceptibly from that of +the Tushepaws: their treatment to us differed much from the kind and +disinterested services of the Shoshonees: they are indeed selfish and +avaricious; they part very reluctantly with every article of food or +clothing; and while they expect a recompense for every service however +small, do not concern themselves about reciprocating any presents we may +give them. + +They are generally healthy--the only disorders which we have had +occasion to remark being of a scrophulous kind, and for these, as well +as for the amusement of those who are in good health, hot and cold +bathing is very commonly used. + +The soil of these prairies is of a light yellow clay intermixed with +small smooth grass: it is barren, and produces little more than a +bearded grass about three inches high, and a prickly pear, of which we +now found three species: the first is of the broad-leafed kind, common +to the Missouri. The second has the leaf of a globular form, and is also +frequent on the upper part of the Missouri, particularly after it enters +the Rocky mountains. The third is pecular to this country, and is much +more inconvenient than the other two: it consists of small thick leaves +of a circular form, which grow from the margin of each other as in the +broad-leafed pear of the Missouri: these leaves are armed with a greater +number of thorns, which are stronger, and appear to be barbed; and as +the leaf itself is very slightly attached to the stem, as soon as one +thorn touches the moccasin it adheres and brings with it the leaf, which +is accompanied by a reenforecement of thorns. + + + END OF VOLUME 1. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of History of the Expedition under the +Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I., by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LEWIS AND CLARK, I. *** + +***** This file should be named 16565-8.txt or 16565-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/5/6/16565/ + +Produced by The Library of Congress, Marilynda +Fraser-Cunliffe, Peter Barozzi and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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